Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/fouryearsinashan1875rams Coomasie Executioners. FOUR TEARS IN ASHANTEE vj 1 1 fu r t. i* f $ m • . \y.^'h h ■ \. ^ f § r*r. .BF THE MISSIONARIES RAMSEYER AND KUHNE ■ . ^ ®Mitb bg £&t0. SEeitbmht WITH INTRODUCTION BY REV. DR. GUNDERT, AND PREFACE BY PROFESSOR CHRISTLEIB, D. D. NEW YORK ROBERT CARTER & BROTHERS, 535 BROADWAY. MDCCCLXXV. S. COWAN AND CO. STRATHMORE PRINTING WORKS, PERTH. zL 6 ^> Co 2£, CONTENTS. PAGE. Preface, v. Introductory Chapter, xi. CHAP. I. — Waiting Time in Anum, . . - - - - l II. — The General Flight, 4 III. — In the Power of the Ashantees, .... 7 IV. — Before Adu Bofo, 14 V. — With the Ashantee Army, - .... is VI. — The March to the Volta, - - - - 26 VII. — From the Volta to Okwano, 31 VIII. — Journey to Aguago, and the Halt there, - - - 38 IX. — The Little One goes Home in Totorase, ... 44 X. — To Dwa.ben and Abankoro, ... - - 51 XI. — With M. Bonnat in Abankoro, 57 XII. — In Asotsche, XIII. — Before the King, 67 XIV. — Ebenezer, XV. — In Coomassie with Prince Ansa, 97 XVI. — Times of Sickness and Forson’s Embassy, - - - 117 XVII. — The Embassy of Messrs. Crawford and Plange, - 127 XVIII. — Adu Bofo’s Entry, 135 XIX. — Yams and Christmas Festivals, 146 IV CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE. XX. — Prince Ansa’s Transactions about the Ransom Money, 153 XXI. — Prolonged Waiting during a Revolution in the Colonial Politics, 163 XXII. — Mr. Plange’s Second Embassy, 172 XXIII. — A Critical Time, 183 XXIV. — Seeming Liberty, 189 XXV. — The Reason of the War, 201 XXVI. — In Coomassie amid the Fluctuations of War, - 207 XXVII. — We Build for the King, 224 XXVIII. — Judgment Approaches, 243 XXIX. — Brother Kuhne set at Liberty, .... 263 XXX. — The Release of the Rest, 275 XXXI. — The Judgment, - 290 APPENDIX. ✓ I. — The Adae, 301 II.— The Weights of Gold in Ashantee, 303 III. — The Government of Ashantee, 305 IV. — A Letter of Prince Ansa, 312 V. — A Word on the Politics of the Colonial Government in the Year 1872, 318 PREFACE. From the earliest ages onward, the Christian Church at large has ever bestowed the warmest sympathy and the most gTateful attention on the history of her martyrs. And well she may do so, for have they not acted as the pioneers of Christ’s advancing kingdom, presenting in their example a standing embodiment of the victory of Christian faith and patience over the world ? Nor has the Protestant Church, for her part, been without the witness of numerous martyrs from the era of her first struggles for existence, down to the history of her missions in modern times. And though we do not idolize these martyrs, lest we should detract from the glory of the only Mediator and incomparable Martyr of Golgotha ; yet we honour their memory, and we look upon their sufferings and conquests as pledges for that universal triumph of the gospel, which shall even- tually be brought about. True, a Church whose founda- tion was laid by the Crucified, must ever remain a cross-bearing Church : amidst much of strife and tribula- tion, under the pressure of constant trial, her members must grow and increase, till the day arrive when the first holy cross-bearer, Jesus Christ her Lord and Head, shall ap- pear in glory and deliver His suffering Bride from all evil. VI ' PREFACE. The following pages tell a wondrous story of Christian martyrdom, although the story does not end with the death of the sufferers. Those martyrs who were per- mitted to seal their testimony for Christ’s truth with their blood, have by no means always suffered more severely than the Christian witnesses whose experiences are re- corded here. We see them enduring a tedious captivity, full of most cruel privations, in one of the darkest territories of heathen superstition, under a sanguinary despotism, the like of which, even in Africa, exists only in places few and far between. With the abominations and fiendish barbarities of such a government daily before their eyes, their own lives in constant peril, and at the mercy of a despot who played with the persons of his prisoners as though they were puppets — in the midst of constant fluctuations between fear and hope, the prospect of re- lease again and again held out, only to be dashed to the ground — till at length their peril reaches its climax, to- gether with the political jeopardy of their tormentors. At length the judgment which breaks in upon the tyrant is the means of restoring them — though weak and ex- hausted — to safety, in answer to the unceasing prayers of their friends at home. Assuredly this is no easier martyr- dom than the quicker process of laying down one’s life on the block or at the stake. The fact, moreover, that these sufferers are still in our midst, only deepens the sympathy which we feel in the story of their captivity. But the interest attaching to this simple journal of the German missionaries is manifold. It excites not only personal sympathy, such as every Christian owes to the sufferings of a brother. It awakens not merely the PREFACE. vii attention of the ethnologist, who will gain from it a far deeper insight into the political, social, and religious life of the Ashantee nation than any traveller has hitherto been able to give — but it must command the interest of all who desire the extension of Christ’s kingdom, more especially of English Christians. The most recent events in the history of Ashantee are a tangible confirmation of the repeated experience, that a kingdom which resists the spread of gospel light, and refuses to recognise the day of its visitation, is ripening for internal decay, convulsion, and dissolution. The latest news (see “ The Evangelischer Heidenbote ” (Calw), Dec. 1874), make it a matter of certainty that the king- dom of Ashantee is doomed. Kofi Kari-Kari, a weak, vain, deceitful monarch, is apparently unable to recover the effect of his defeat. His role appears to be well- nigh finished, his chiefs and allies are leaving him, and he has already been compelled to admit the independence of his most powerful vassal, the king of Dwaben. May we not believe that God has permitted one of the most powerful kingdoms of Western Africa to be thus ter- ribly humiliated, in order that a free entrance may be opened into that land for the Gospel of Peace ? The un- broken power of Ashantee has hitherto — with few and rare exceptions — withstood the influence of the gospel, and would have continued to render the establishment of new missions fruitless, if not impossible. The yoke of des- potism is now broken, and the agglomeration of tribes once held together by superstition and fear, is beginning to be dissolved into its constituent elements. The nationalities hitherto enslaved by Ashantee are seeking a closer alliance with England, and wish to be ad- PREFACE. viii mittecl into the protectorate. The south-western boundary of the Ashantee kingdom is opened, and not only this but the tribes there situate (Okwau and Dwaben) have ex- pressed a wish for missionaries to come to them. Does not all this reveal the hand of God opening the gates to the messengers of His kingdom ? Can we imagine a political situation more favourable to its extension ? These questions demand an answer from Christians on both sides of the channel. What better one can be given by those of England, than the practical conclusion : Now that the weapons of our country have pierced the heart of Ashantee, and laid Coornassie in ruins, should not the Christian compassion and the vigorous faith of English- men seek to raise this unhappy nation from the dust ; not to new death, but to true life in the light and liberty of the gospel ? Wherefore not ? Germany and Switzerland, through the instrumentality of their Basel Missionary Society, are ready to help in a second campaign against Coornassie. For more than forty years this Society has been working on the west coast of Africa ; gradually pushing forward its stations to the boundaries of Ashantee. How consider- able have been the results already attained, how whole- some the influence already exercised upon the population, may be seen from the official recognition of these facts by Sir John Glover, during the late war. Hence we cannot doubt that side by side with the English Wesleyans, the Basel Society is primarily called of God to carry on this work. In concert with the liberated captives, the Basel com- mittee has already drawn up a plan for the advance- ment of the mission foreposts in a westerly direction, so PREFACE. IX as to take possession of the new territory. One of the captives, Mr. Ramseyer, whose health permits him to re- turn, has offered to found the new mission in Ashantee ; and three Basel missionaries have already preceded, and are awaiting his arrival at Kyebi (not far from the frontier), and are meanwhile preparing themselves for their work. One of the principal keys of the land, viz., the language spoken throughout Ashantee (Tschi) is already in the possession of the missionaries, who have finished and printed (or are now printing), not only a translation of the Scriptures, but also the most necessary books for schools and churches. Thus has this new and peaceful campaign against Ashantee been already inaugurated. Germany is ready to send into the field the needful, well-qualified soldiers, in the shape of thoroughly educated, persevering, hard- working, frugal missionaries — some of whom have, as we have said, been already dispatched. The indispens- able fund for carrying on this holy war amounts to £7,000 for starting, and £700 annually for supporting the new stations. Is it asking too much if we look for assistance in raising these sums to English liberality ? Assuredly it must be of the greatest importance for the English protectorate in West Africa — even from a merely political point of view — to change the kingdom of Ashantee from a wily and cruel enemy, into a peaceful and civilised neighbour. The Committee of the Basel Missionary Society has already issued an appeal to the Christians of England, which has been supported with large-hearted generosity and true Christian charity by the Church Missionary Society — a body which has always shown the utmost re- X PREFACE. gard for the moral rights of other societies, and in this case too lias abstained from the least appearance of an attempt to take possession of territory which has been already occupied by the English Wesleyan and Basel Societies. May this noble example be followed by Christians throughout England, and may they show by the warm sup- port accorded to this new mission (which many of them feel to be a national duty), that they attach far more importance to the extension of Christ’s kingdom than to the spread of any one denomination. May the following pages sound, in their artless but touching tale, the voice of the Lord, knocking at the heart’s door of Christian England, and asking help for benighted Ashantee. If there be any one who can read a journal such as this, without becoming a friend and supporter of missions to the heathen, let him earnestly ask himself the question whether one who has no compassion for the sufferings of a Christless humanity, can have any true love to the Lord whom these sufferings brought down to take our flesh. “ Behold I have set before thee an open door, and no man can shut it ” (Rev. iii. 8). Let us not be blind to the truth in the present case. Inwards, beyond Ashantee, and indeed partly in Ashantee itself, the false prophet is at work, and more of the tribes of inner Africa are constantly being subdued to his creed. This open door may soon be closed, if we neglect to hear God’s message, and do not hasten to set up in those regions the standard of the True Prophet. THEODORE CHRISTLEIB, D.D., Ph. D. Professor of Theology and University Preacher. Bonn, Prussia, December 20th, 1874. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER BY THE REV. DR. GUNDERT, CALW, WURTEMBERG. We are indebted to peculiar circumstances for the follow- ing pages. Two missionaries suddenly found themselves in a position to observe closely the still unbroken national and political life of a pure African race ; to live and to suffer with them in a very important and critical period of their history — probably indeed the turning point. But in this case the usual state of things was reversed. Europeans, whether travellers, merchants, residents, or missionaries, when they cross the path of, or come in contact with the negro, commonly do so from a position of superiority. They look from above, but these men saw all from below ; the white man was the slave, the negro the master. Those who wish to know the state of things which really existed in the now fallen Ashantee kingdom, its forms of government, and the individual, social, and political life of this interesting negro people, will find in this journal important and dependable disclosures. Of course, they are scattered through the narrative ; for a connected summary, or a polished description of the country has not been attempted here. To the attentive reader it will be clear that the real journal, viz., that which was written simultaneously with the events, only commenced when the writers had ink and paper sent them. They both made use of the long INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. xii period of detention in Coomassie to write down the events of each day, at the same time recording their remembrances of the first year of their captivity. That the names of places scarcely occur at all is to be accounted for by the position of the unwilling travellers. The following state- ment may help to throw light on the circumstances which led to their being taken prisoners. The Gold Coast extends from the Asini river to the mouth of the Volta, and includes from three to four degrees of longitude. It is traversed through the middle by the Prah, and inhabited by negro tribes who mostly speak a dialect of the Tschi language. On the western side of the Prah are the Asini, Wasa, and Denkjera ; on the other side are the Fantee, Abora, Akem, Asen, and Akwapem ; and towards the Volta are the Akra, Adangme, Krobo, and Akwamu. Twenty-five forts were built from time to time, in which European merchants formerly car- ried on the slave trade. The chief of these forts, Elmina and Cape Coast, two miles apart, have belonged (since 1637-1661) to the Dutch and English. These exercised little, and certainly no good influence on the surrounding negroes. At length the Asantees, or as they are called in the Coast dialect, Ashantees, appeared on the scene as a conquering power, and in endeavouring to force their way to the sea, came into collision with the British. The latter fought a hasty battle with the king, Tuta Kwamina, January 21st, 1824, and suffered a disgrace- ful defeat. Two years later, September 19th, 1826, this was avenged by a complete victory at Dudowa, after which the experienced governor, George Maclean, arranged the terms of peace, which guaranteed the independence of all the tribes (with the exception of the Asinis in the west and the Akwamus in the east), and placed them under British protection. Two Ashantee princes, Kwanta Bisa and Ansa Owusu, were sent as hostages to England, INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. xiii whence they returned in 1841 as baptized Christians, and accompanied a Wesleyan mission to Coomassie. In 1580 the English territory was made more compact by the purchase of the Danish settlements, and by an ex- change with the Dutch in 1867, when a tax of a shilling a head was imposed on the inhabitants of the protectorate ; but very little was done for the improvement of the people. The Wesleyans established a mission in the west, the Basel Society did the same in the east, and these were the chief efforts made for the elevation of the negro popula- tion. In 1863 a fresh war broke out between the English colonial government and the king of Ashantee, which led to a disastrous campaign, the British troops falling victims to the climate rather than to the enemy. Captain Pine pleaded for means to make a vigorous attack upon Coomassie ; but he obtained only a few West Indian troops who were encamped in the bush during the rainy season, where numbers of them died. King Kwakoo Dooah said truly, “ The white men bring many cannon to the bush, but the bush is stronger than the cannon.” In May 1864, an order was sent to discontinue the war ; in consequence of which unfortunate proceeding the Ashantees lost all respect for the British power; and Parliament found it necessary to appoint a commission to investigate thoroughly the condition of the British terri- tory on the Gold Coast. Many strongly recommended the abandonment of such an unhealthy, profitless colony, while others as strongly advocated a more energetic management of it ; between these two extremes of opinion the commission thought it desirable to adopt a middle course. It recommended that the government should be left more and more in the hands of the natives, and that the British should carefully avoid enlarging their territory or making any fresh treaties with the tribes on the Coast, in order that the protecting power might, as soon as it was XIV INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. possible, without breach of honour, withdraw entirely. It happened, as might have been foreseen. “ The weak- ness and incapacity of the local government made every progress impossible,” as Lord Grey truly stated. No attempt was made to train the natives to self-government, or to make them capable of defending themselves ; the weak policy which only aimed at avoiding all dealings with Ashantee, and which, even when roused, persevered in inactivity, inevitably led to war with this proud people. The Basel Society had, in the winter of 1839-40, sent out their first missionary, Ivies ; he had gone to Coomassie and attempted to carry forward his work in Ashantee. But later on circumstances arose which led the Basel Society to enlarge their field of operations on the Volta, and this was done without an idea that it was possible to come into connection or collision with the eastern bound- ary of Ashantee. Thus in 1846, the missionary Klauss crossed the Volta and began to found a settlement at about eight miles distance from the river, on high ground near Anum. A steep healthy hill, covered with grass, rose about 200 feet above the plain on the north of the town. Here, after much difficulty, a house was at last finished and a school commenced, while regular mission work was carried on amongst the people ; an agent in connection with the mission also bought up cotton, which was sent down the Volta to the coast town Ada. But from the beginning there were many political hin- drances to the prosperity of the new station. To the south of Anum, on the Volta, live the Akwems, who have long been on very bad terms with their neighbours. In the year 1867, their enmity took so active a form that Anum became almost cut off from the rest of the missionary territory, and could only be reached by a long and circuitous route. In 1869, the Akwems and the Anglos, a tribe who live INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. xv further to the east, formed a secret alliance with Ashantee, and the latter power sent an army across the Volta to seize upon territory just outside the British protectorate. It was believed in Coomassie that the English would not raise any earnest objection to this, and the plan was, after winning great victories, to push on with increased strength to the Gold Coast. This expedition led, in June 1869, to the destruction of the two mission stations Anum and Wegbe (or Ho). Whilst the residents at the latter place were able to escape in good time, retreat was impossible for the Basel missionaries. The Swiss, Frederick Augustus Ramseyer (with his wife and their infant son), had been in Anum since December 29th, 1868. He had worked on the Gold Coast since 1864, so that he had much African experi- ence. The Silesian Johannes Kuhne had been in Africa since 1866, but he had only joined Ramseyer as a merchant two months before they were made prisoners. We will now proceed to their own narrative. MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. CHAPTER I. WAITING TIME IN ANUM. After the arrival of Mr. Kuhne on our station, Anum, his predecessors, Mr. and Mrs. Schonliuth had, by order of our Committee, to leave this place for their new field of labour at Christiansborg ; but in war time it was no easy task to find men for the transport of Mrs. Schonhuth and the baggage, because an order from the camp, which was pitched near our town, made it imperative on all the men to join their ranks, as a glimpse had been caught of their enemies, the Ashantees. There was, however, no time for delay, and by vigorous effort we induced four men to assist us, so that Mrs. Schonhuth was safely conveyed to Ho, May 20th, 1869. Alarming rumours were rife on all sides, while negroes, painted and armed to the teeth, were constantly seen leaving the camp and ascending our hill. The appear- ance of these fellows was really terrific, with their caps of dried skin surmounted by blood-stained goats’ horns. They vaunted their heroic deeds on such of their Ashan- tee enemies as had come within their reach, and a band of twenty of them demanded a reward for having kept watch for us on the Wolta river. But the Alm ighty God 2 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. had been our sole protector, and we firmly refused their unreasonable request. We scarcely believed anything we heard, and concluded that as there was still a mixed population of young and old left in the town, the danger could not be imminent. We also hoped that the apparent attachment of the Anums to us and our surroundings, and the kindness we had shown them on various occasions, would prove some security, and we suspected that the enemy desired us to forsake our station only that they might plunder it to their hearts’ content. We therefore firmly resolved to stay and abide the consequences. No idea of imprison- ment or captivity in Coomassie ever occurred to us, believ- ing we had really less to fear from the Asliantees than from the people around us. The king, however, sug- gested our depositing our property in Ho, though he assured us there was no real danger ; this we were willing to do, but how to accomplish it was the question, for most of our servants, and even our nurse, had already fled. Our brethren in Ho, who were equally anxious with ourselves to remain at their post, begged me to send my wife with the little one to them for protection, and I would gladly have accepted their kindness but for her determination to remain with me. The thing 1 which caused our chief uneasiness was a cloud of smoke which we observed rising behind the chain of mountains near us, and which advanced continually in an easterly direction. Sometimes it was so dense that we thought it must arise from the burning of a village ; then it became so faint as scarcely to indicate camp fires ; and anon it faded into a thin blue mist. Our negroes could not explain it, yet it was obvious that our king was removing his camp into close proximity to us, so that it was now within an hour’s walk of Anum, and there was no sign of breaking it up. By this time all business was WAITING TIME IN ANUM. 3 suspended, except that a good deal of cotton was still being brought to us in exchange for cowries, and nearly a hundred bales lay ready for dispatch ; but the king would not supply the men to take them down the river. The clerk and the catechist remained faithful, although very uneasy from the general excitement ; still, none of us supposed we had more to fear from the enemy than the extortion of a war tax, or the partial plunder of our goods. Our neutrality had been recognised by the king of Akwamu, an ally of Ashantee, who had twice per- mitted Mi\ Schdnhuth to pass through his territory, and it was well known to every one that we, as missionaries, not only had nothing to do with war, but that Mr. Schon- huth had once obtained the release of an Ashantee prisoner at his own cost, and sent him back to his friends. I regarded my wife’s decision to remain beside me in the hour of danger as an indication from God that we were not to separate, and subsequent events strengthened this impression. Most wonderfully was she upheld, both in body and mind, during the weary years of our capti- vity, and again and again did she revive my drooping faith, throughout our lengthened wanderings. Thus, amid alternating hopes and fears, the first week of June passed away, yet the cloud of smoke was still seen travelling eastward, and the question sometimes flashed upon us, “ Could the Ashantees be advancing on Ho ? ” Meanwhile we could obtain no reliable news, but if an engagement should occur, it would certainly necessi- tate flight; for where would a combined resistance be more easy than from the summit of our hill, surrounded as it was by a high wall, and only ten minutes’ walk from the town. 4 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. CHAPTER II. THE GENERAL FLIGHT. We were awakened at day break, on the morning of 9tli June, by a loud knocking, and on opening the door, several soldiers announced to me, in the king’s name, that a battle was at hand, that the town would soon be de- serted, and we could expect no mercy from the blood- thirsty Ashantees. “ Would we like to escape?” After some deliberation we decided in the negative. Scarcely had they left us when our boys asked leave to join their mothers, who were preparing to flee. We could not refuse them, for our other servants had already gone, except two whom we had rescued from slavery, with our catechist and our clerk. By the afternoon a few stragglers alone remained in the town, and the king was trying to establish his camp in its deserted area, for a battle was expected in our immediate neighbourhood. A merchant who attended our services, visited us, and advised us to retire to Ho. “The Ashantees will not injure your persons,” said he, “ but they might easily carry you to Coomassie. I will, however, meet you again in the hour of danger, seeing you decide to remain.” Still later we had a visit from a relative of the king, assuring us that he had not ordered a flight, and regret- ting that our servants had left us, though we hoped we should see them again the following day. Thus warned, we deemed it prudent, after dark, to bury two hundred THE GENERAL FLIGHT. 5 dollars in the garden, and hide our rings in the same place. But the news which reached us on the morning of Jane 10th, cut off all hopes of a speedy peace. None of our servants returned, and the Christians, who had been faithful hitherto, now begged to be dismissed. “The Ashantees,” they said, “ were known as executioners, and they might be as likely to practise on black men as on white ? ” We gave them some money, and a testimonial of faithful service, advising them on no account to mix themselves up in the war. They then collected their few belongings and departed, leaving us in a solitude most solemn and strange, no voices but our own to be heard. We at once proceeded to chop the wood, milk the goats, attend to cooking, and seek for water, which was daily be- coming more scarce. A message from the king now informed us of his intention to meet the enemy in Anum, and enquired if we were prepared to face the danger. We prayed for guidance, and replied that we would re- move to Ho, if he could spare us men to convey my wife ; thus leaving our station and property to the Lord’s care. We then besought our Heavenly Father to hinder our going if it were not His will, and rose from our knees peaceful at heart, and strong in His strength. The king’s answer soon came, to the effect that Pekyi, with its surround- ings (a former mission station four miles from Anum), had joined the Ashantees. We waited for a confirmation of this report, and employed the interval in making a ham- mock and two small boxes for our projected flight. In the midst of these preparations, we were startled by soldiers running towards us crying loudly, “ run, run, the Ashantees are in the town.” The day passed on as we waited in anxious suspense for the sound of a shot, or the appearance of the enemy. As night approached, we ventured to the town in search of water; a death-like 6 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIANTEE. silence reigned in its deserted streets, which were strewn with broken fragments, while every house was so still that the bleating of a kid was a welcome sound, and cheered me as I retraced my steps homewards. We kept lights burning and shutters open, trying in vain to obtain a little sleep ; the wind, always high on our hill, was especially boisterous that night, and most anxiously did we long for day. It came at length, and weary and worn as we were with painful watching, we began to prepare our early meal. Milking the goats was, after several attempts, found to be an impossibility, our store of condensed milk we dared not use, for it was our sole dependence for our baby, so we hid the precious tins. Mid-day passed, still the same dreadful silence prevailed ; for miles around there was no sign of life ; we were alone on our hill top. Restlessly wandering backwards and forwards we looked and listened ; the cry even of a bird startling us. Thus the day wore on, our only employment throughout its long hours being to boil a piece of meat in as little water as possible, for the springs were a mile off, and our precious store was nearly exhausted. Once, indeed, during the afternoon the report of a gun reached us, and then we distinctly heard voices crying, “ come, come !” We strained every nerve to catch the answers, but they were inau- dible, the sounds died away in the distance, and we were once more alone, with the prospect of another terrible night of watching and suspense. Again we left the lamps burning, and soothed by the sound of a heavy rain, we actually fell asleep, thankful that our most pressing need was thus being supplied. IN THE POWER OF THE ASII ANT EES. 7 CHAPTER III. IN THE POWER OF THE ASHANTEES. It was a lovely morning; all nature smiled upon our pleasant little station, and tlie brilliant sunbeams struck rays of hope into our hearts, so that it almost seemed as if our fears of the previous night had been groundless. After breakfasting comfortably, we occupied ourselves with our usual duties. But while engaged in the verandah, my wife observed the glitter of arms among the tall grass bordering the footpath which led to the town. A troop of warriors soon appeared, greeting us civilly in their own language, but at the same time pointing their guns. We advanced, calmly enquiring from whence they came. “We are friends from Coomassie,” said they, and beckoned us to approach. They took our offered hands, and when we assured them we were missionaries, having nothing to do with the war, but quietly remaining when all others had fled, they withdrew their loaded guns, adding that “we were quite right,” and begging us to accompany them to their leader, who was close at hand and wished to see us ; meanwhile, they would guard our station, which might otherwise suffer from his pilfering crew. Having really no choice, we, at their suggestion, arrayed ourselves in our best to do the chief honour, took a little refreshment, and followed our guides. I pocketed a few presents, and my wife took two tins of milk, the baby’s bottle, and a warm woollen rug — why, she hardly knew, 8 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANTE E. as we were told, we should soon come back— but alas, from that fatal moment we beheld our mucli-loved home no more. We formed a singular procession, headed by a half-clad soldier, armed with gun, bowie knife, and a long leathern whip under his arm ; next myself, carrying our babe, then my wife and Mr. K., three soldiers bringing up the rear. We were soon met by hundreds of painted negroes, who, despite the efforts of our leader to turn them back, rushed up the hill shouting the name of Adu Bofo. It was easy to see that their aim was the spoliation of our house and property ; yet they did us no harm personally, and were even outwardly polite, acceding to our request to point their muskets away from us. In the company of this riotous crowd we at last approached the town. Its silence was broken now — the Asliantees had indeed taken pos- session. They fixed on us their glaring eyes as they vociferated in triumphant tones and noisy songs their own heroic deeds. We sought in vain for their captain, though they assured us he was near. Alas ! on the very spot where I had so often stood proclaiming God’s message of peace, all was havoc and confusion ; debris of all kinds was scattered about the streets. We were driven forward under a blazing sun, passing burning houses, whose scorching heat increased our suffer- ings terribly. For four hours the merciless march con- tinued, and we were urged onward faster and faster, till, on our strong remonstrance of such continued effort being required of a woman, they promised us a sedan chair to carry us back to Anurn in the evening, A few yams, and some milk for the little one was our food until we reached Pekyi, a town which was said to have surrendered to Ashantee unconditionally, yet one house alone remained entire among smouldering ruins. Our enquiries after the captain were answered by the command to march on, “ but IN THE POWER OF THE ASH ANT EES. 9 only a very little further.” Some food was also offered, which we pocketed, for fatigue and excitement deprived us of all appetite. A company of naked prisoners were just then led past us, bending under the burden of their chains. How we pitied them ; yet the close surveillance under which we were, and the exultant tones of the men contending together for the honour of having caught us, increased our fears that we were prisoners too. These fears were soon sadly confirmed, for on looking up we caught sight of a long line of soldiers, heavily laden with our own household goods ; so that we at once perceived the deception which had been practised upon us, and realised our helpless condition. The assurance of our gracious God that He would never forsake us alone sus- tained us in that moment of agony ! At one o’clock we again set forward, with no heart to resist and no care whither we went. We passed village after village in ruins, till suddenly called to halt in the presence of a little fat man with piercing eyes, who was haranguing the bystanders. He gesticulated wildly, rose from his seat, stretched himself to his full height, and pretending to act the part of an executioner, declared that he was a man of great power. I addressed him, begging him to pity the alarm of our terrified child, and relating to him our sad story, to which he listened with a patron- ising smile, declaring he knew well we had nothing to do with the war, and that he would accompany us to Adu Bofo, which in truth he afterwards did ; thus somewhat reassured we left the village. Our road now lay along the beautiful Pekyi mountains, and had our baby been willing to leave my arms one of our guides would have carried him for us. It was past sunset when, half dead with fatigue and exhaustion, we were once more permitted to halt in a village full of Akwamu soldiers, who flocked around us, laughing and 10 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASUANTEE. mockingly exclaiming, “ Olx ! the whites ; good evening, sirs, where are your heads?” and from one shelter to another they followed, assailing us with abusive taunts. At length they were tired, and began to prepare for the night, by lighting large fires around which they lay, leaving us only space enough to sit in a crouching posture. They had given us some wretched meat, which we could not touch, but tried to appease our hunger with a little parched corn and a few half-cooked beans, bestowed on us by a pitying woman. Half choked by dense smoke and heat, we dragged through the wearisome hours of darkness, and slept at length from sheer exhaustion, but were soon aroused by the attempted escape of another prisoner, who lost his head in the struggle that ensued, which episode caused much merriment among our guards. No words can describe the languor and disgust with which we rose as the day dawned, and watched our selfish keepers eagerly cooking and devouring their morning meal, without a thought or care for our wants. At our earnest entreaty they at length vouchsafed us a very scanty breakfast, while an exultant crowd again gathered round the “ humbled whites,” and amused themselves by offering us a portion of our own stores of food, which, when we took, they immediately snatched away. The moment had now arrived for our appearance before the king of Akwamu, whom we found seated in the middle of the village, among a crowd of councillors and officials. He presented a sorry appearance, hanging his head in shame and embarrassment, which was easily accounted for, as no doubt he partly realised himself for what we knew him to be — an arch-traitor. The silence was broken at length by the question as to what we knew of Dompre, the enemy’s general. We gave such information as we had, and then seized the IN THE POWER OF THE ASHANTEES. 11 opportunity of pleading our own cause, as missionaries who had placed confidence on the respect due to our acknowledged neutrality. He calmly begged us to make ourselves easy ; assured us there was no ground of com- plaint against us, and that we should speedily be restored to our home — a promise as false as it was fair. On our return, our ears were saluted by the welcome sound of English words, which, though barely intelligible, were evidently meant to express comfort and sympathy. It was a young man who addressed us with, “ never mind, never mind,” and a few other enigmatic and disconnected phrases, constantly repeated. He was applauded as a prodigy by the surrounding crowd, who listened in won- der to his flowing words ; we, however, gathered but one idea from the whole harangue, and this certainly was a cheering one. It seemed that Adu Bofo was expected to arrive almost directly, and we counted much upon his appearance on the scene, though these hopes were soon to be sadly disappointed. In the meanwhile our new friend, Thomas Kofi, could not render us any practical assistance, as his entreaties on our behalf were disregarded, and it was decided that we were to set out for the camp. It was Sunday morning, and by ten o’clock we were again on our way, with no prospect before us but a re- newal of the cruel driving haste, the burning sun, and the vain entreaties for water to relieve our parching thirst — it was just a repetition of the past day’s miseries. In our extremity we lay on the ground, trying to drink from a wayside pool, so great was our need. Even this was forbidden. At noon we passed soldiers cooking their dinner, and we once more implored our cruel guards to take pity, and bestow on us a drink of water. They were unmoved, until suddenly remembering my pocketed cigars, I offered them, and the bribe prevailed, so that we were allowed to drink to our heart’s content. Not 12 MISSIONARY LIFE IN AS II ANTE E. only was this indulgence thus procured, but a gourd was filled, and carried by our leader to supply our future need. Holding painfully on for another hour, we fell in with our yesterday’s hero reclining under a tree. Of him Ave resolutely demanded food, and that so persistently, that the astonished bystanders threw us some boiled maize, which we eagerly devoured, though the gift was accompanied with taunts and jeers. Our poor babe, too, was once more permitted to drink his milk in peace. At this juncture, Mr. K. twice sunk on the ground from pure exhaustion, and this procured us a brief respite, during which we lay and rested, thinking how differently our brethren Avere employed on that calm Sabbath day. But the cruel command to rise became eA 7 ery moment more imperative, and we were forced to obey, though our hearts died within us as Ave perceived that our path lay over a high mountain, and our powers of climbing were almost gone. We slackened our pace in prospect of the terrible effort, and saw our own property continually carried before us by one or other of the endless line of folloAvers that accompanied our march. Our guards soon became furious at the delay, roughly seizing my wife’s umbrella, because “ it hindered her in running,” and other- Avise maltreating her. I determinately resisted this bar- barous handling, and prevailed. On reaching the summit of the mountain, panting and breathless, we Avere commanded to halt, for the quick ears of our leaders caught the sounds of fighting some miles ahead, and distinguished troops in apparent pur- suit. Great excitement at once prevailed — shouting, hur- rying, and driving ; with leathern whip of elephant hide in hand, the commander flew from place to place rally- ing his scattered forces. Our precious property was thrown into the bush, as the men with shouldered guns IN THE POWER OF THE ASHANTEES. 13 passed on to the fight, not one being allowed to lag be- hind. From a field of maize we watched the hurrying, clamour- ing crowd, occasionally catching the sound of distant firing. Suddenly a crash was heard close by, a whiz of muskets, and a cry of war, causing us to bend before the whistling bullets. We soon, however, saw that this was simply a clever trick of our own company, an artful de- vice to deceive the enemy who were in conflict in the far distance ; and when it was over they again drove us from our resting-place. Our aching limbs would scarcely move, but remonstrance was useless ; they were in haste to reach the camp, and in silence, almost in despair, we pur- sued our miserable way, feeling that death itself could bring us nothing worse. Sometimes we were staggering through tangled grass ten feet in height, then over a boggy plain lay our painful journey, our distress increas- ing by falling rain, and still more by compassion for the miserable creatures whose corpses or wounded bodies lay in our path. Insulted and abused by the soldiers, who threatened to eat us when we reached Coomassie, our miseries intensi- fied, until night closed upon us, and we ended another day of bitter suffering in a village where we were per- mitted to halt. It was a horrible resting-place, full of slain, so that we had to pick our way over the gory earth ; and when my wife stumbled from weakness, her dress was covered with stains. The soldiers were hastening to inter the mangled corpses, and from every house around us sounded the doleful lament of the women. It was evident the Ashantees had been sorely discomfited, and we feared the consequences, but were sustained by re- membering that the very hairs of our head were all numbered. '‘W ■ 14 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. CHAPTER IV. BEFORE ADU BOFO. Driving long poles into the ground, over which they stretched some branches, some soldiers were busy set- ting up a rough encampment outside the village. The darkness was so dense that we could distinguish little of the busy scene beyond the fitful light of a blazing fire, around which gigantic forms moved among the shadows, their labours being accompanied by a tremendous noise, caused by the blowing of horns, which thrilled our shattered nerves most painfully. They had driven us into a large hut where one of the king’s sons was sitting, and here tired nature claimed her due, and with my boy in my arms I sank upon the ground utterly exhausted, only longing to be left lying there in peace. But we were once more hurried on, till at length our goal seemed to be attained, and we suddenly found ourselves in the pres- ence of the great commander, to meet whom we had been so deceitfully allured from our homes three days before. He was dressed entirely in white, and sat in state, while our savage escort, on bended knee, related the story of our seizure. I tried in vain to speak. My attempt was met with contempt and cruel indifference, while our inhuman captor, rising, began to tear off my wife’s dress, and bore it away in triumph. A few hurried words of command from Adu, and we were ruthlessly driven to a small hut, where a fierce fellow advanced to meet us, brandishing a BEFORE ABU BOFO. 15 long, bright knife, and seizing my arm, attempted to drag me away. I forgot my weakness in the thought of wife and child, and sturdily resisted his efforts, whereupon he turned on Mr. K., and instantly both were lost in the outer darkness. We will give the description of the cruel scene that was enacted in our brother’s own words. “ First,” said he, “ I thought of my loved ones far away, begging the Lord to comfort them, and asking for myself that I might be kept faithful even unto death, for I thought the end had now come. It was, however, ordered otherwise, and I was dragged into the presence of an inferior chief, who sat in front of his dwelling, while two attendants supported his arms in a horizontal posi- tion. I was also permitted to sit down, and thus observed that the great man was suffering from several frightful wounds. In feverish excitement he turned upon me, vowing that I should lose my hands if I had had any part in the fighting. They now tore the ragged coveiings off my swollen feet, which were forced into heavy irons secured by a ring; all remonstrance, of course, being useless, and my pockets were next rudely searched and emptied. Seeing Mr. and Mrs. R. approaching, I made an abortive effort to convey to their keeping their woollen shawl, as a covering for their babe, but it was snatched from my hands. Strange to say, a string of coral beads, found within my hat, was restored, being pro- bably regarded as a rosary used in prayer according to the Moslem fashion. Two of my pockets were also over- looked in the general search. This ordeal completed, some bread soaked in water was bestowed upon me, but fatigue and anxiety had banished hunger, and when left alone, I fell on the wet ground in a sleep that might rather be called the stupor of exhaustion. I could hardly realize my position on awaking. The noisy horns still 16 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIANTEE. sounded wildly in the distance, while the light of a clear moon shone calmly over the blood-stained earth.” While Mr. K. was making these painful experiences, we took a hasty farewell of each other, having no hope of life, and inexpressible peace was granted us in the solemn prospect of entering eternity. We no longer felt distress at the prospect of leaving our helpless infant, but were able to rejoice at the thought of the glory that awaited us in our Father’s House. Hearing myself called, we turned into a hut close by, and there found our poor brother loaded with fetters, but still alive ; and as we were now also in irons, we concluded that our execution was postponed, and lay down to rest, after partaking of a scanty repast. We slept in spite of the wild music that sounded around us, and the slight protection afforded us from the pouring rain by our sheep skin and my coat. The news of our capture had spread through the neighbourhood, and we were aroused before day-break, by an eager throng who came in hot haste to view the wonderful spectacle of three white persons and a child conquered and chained. They crowded round us in the greatest amazement, handling us most unceremoniously, as if we had been animals, exclaiming now and then, “ These are not men, they are spirits ; they have heads like horses, they will soon be killed ! ” One tall, thin, grey -haired man, ornamented with coral beads, iron rings, and fetish cords, stepped up to Mr. K., and stared feroci- ously at him for some minutes ; but his gaze being met with unshrinking calmness, he at length slowly retired, making some remarks to various attendants, from which we gathered that there was no intention of bringing us to trial. When we had painfully crawled back, on hands and knees, to our brother, who sat by the hut of the wounded chief, some food was supplied us, and a few poles being I'he Captives in Irons BEFORE ABU BOFO. 17 struck, skins were spread upon them to shield us from the heat and the crowd. After a short time a group of men approached, bearing aloft a large coloured umbrella, under which Adu Bofo advanced to visit the chief. I made an attempt to draw his attention, and again urged the sad story of our betrayal and wrong. But though he took my offered hand, and acknowledged the truth of my as- sertions, he assured us, with stony composure, that being his master’s slave, his only course was to send us to the king, and thus we recognized the terrible fact, that Coomassie was to be our ultimate goal. We entreated him at least to restore us to the Akwamu King, who might send us to our brethren in Krobo, promising that they would reward him liberally, whereupon he pondered, and pretended to comply, for which we thanked and blessed him most heartily. Our irons were removed, and we were provided with a roof of banian leaves. But before long a procession of soldiers was again formed, and the camp was ordered forward, while we, scarcely able to move, and stung by pangs of the keenest disappointment, were forced to keep up with the rest. Mr. K. most kindly supplied my poor wife with one of his shoes, which were for- tunately small, she having lost hers in the muddy path, and thus we recommenced our dismal march under a fresh escort of guards. C 18 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASII ANTE E. CHAPTER V. WITH THE ASHANTEE AEMY. June 14-24, 1869. Happily we were not compelled to advance rapidly, being in tlie midst of a company of soldiers who were often commanded to halt ; so on we went, now on high ground, then wading through long grass or primeval forests. Twenty steps on either side of our column, two other lines were marching in the singular style peculiar to the country, and many a headless corpse which lay in our path, showed that we were going through the scene of yesterday’s conflict. The frizzy hair of one of the heads, made it apparent that it had belonged to an Ashantee, the hasty retreat of whose enemy had compelled him to forsake the bloody trophy. A few yards away from this disgusting spectacle sat a man preparing a goblet out of a human skull. After two hours of such marching, we were permitted to halt for rest, surrounded by a vociferating crowd. Mr. K. here contrived to pass some of his underclothing to poor Mi's R., and this became her principal dress for seven months. He also spared part of his linen for the little one. To an Akwamu chief, dreadfully disfigured by a wound, I offered my hand, which he refused ; but gazing at us intently, he beckoned to a youth in uniform, and covered with amulets like a Fetish priest, who, to our WITH THE AS IT ANTE E ARMY. 19 surprise, addressed us in tolerable English, evidently learned of our brethren in Akra. This giddy fellow cut short our questions by turning his back on us with a rude laugh. “ I am hungry,” said he, “ I must be off.” At length we were released and taken to a small house, where some sympathising people brought us corn, pounded yams, and goat’s flesh, the latter of which we could not eat on account of its high flavour, though later on hunger com- pelled us to accept many things infinitely more dis- gusting. At my wife’s request, we were supplied with water, a great comfort for our baby ; but in the everfing our fetters were again fastened, and we were thankful for a block of wood as a pillow, when we lay on the bare floor. We knew that under such hardships our babe’s nourish- ment must soon cease, and what should we do then ? We could only say, “ The Lord will provide.” The morning of June loth dawned. We were released from our fetters and led to a little hut in the wood, roofed with palm branches, and about five feet square ; this was our resting-place for four days. Here the king’s son came to question us as to our possessions. We answered him truthfully, and assured him we had buried no cowries, which made him very angry, and when I did not at once understand his questions he shook both his fists in my face. This discipline being over, a woman was brought who was willing to nurse our baby, but her husband soon forbade it, and we learned how we had been deceived when told that we should have no difficulty in finding a nurse, for this was the only woman who had an infant with her. Alas ! the sufferings of my wife and little one pressed more heavily upon me step by step ; one of the king’s sons, however, gave him a dress. Our food consisted of boiled yams, water, soup, and occasionally a little roasted corn. Once we obtained a pound of meat, the half of which we smoked and dried to 20 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. make it last the longer ; our fingers had to do the duty of spoons and forks. During these four days our comfort was not increased by hearing, as we did on two occasions, the peculiar beat of a drum and the report of shots, which were answered by a terrible scream from the multitude. It was evident that fresh prisoners were being executed, and that even Anums were not spared. On the evening of the 18th of June our attention was arrested by unusual sounds ; we listened and heard the report of distant shouting, of drums, and of cries of alarm. The principal men around us hastily seized some ammuni- tion and marched off. It was evident that Dompre had made one of his daring sallies, for a sound of continuous firing seemed approaching, and we were desired to come forward. As we did so, Adu Bofo, advancing, commanded us to enter the nearest shed. Here we beheld the booty they had taken ; leather trunks, coverings, kitchen utensils, and children’s clothing, heaped together in fearful con- fusion. To attempt to sit was useless, to lie down im- possible, for new faces surrounded us and exultingly fastened on our chains afresh. It was a pale, clear, moonlight night, enabling us to distinguish a crowd of soldiers gathering within the fence of the majestic bamboo house inhabited by Adu. Out of it he emerged, attired in a dirty yellow jacket, hung round with charms to protect him from danger ; this was his warrior’s dress ! From his seat or throne he gave his commands, during which the distant firing made it evident the camp had been attacked. Rising, with his long pipe still in his mouth, and attended by his guards, he marched with a triumphant step to the scene of conflict, his guard following. Thus left comparatively alone we had leisure to observe our surroundings, and noticed among the other guards one who, with a consequential air, paced up and down before us, occasionally uttering a few words. He WITH THE AS HA XT EE ARMY. 21 was a fierce looking fellow, armed with a large sharp knife, which we felt assured was to decapitate us should the combat turn out ill. As the night passed away the sound of firing became more distant ; the troops were pro- bably pursuing ; so we ventured to rest our weary heads on the wreck of our property and actually slept, dreaming of happy days gone by. The morning of the 19th broke, and made apparent the excitement around us. Preparations for war were immi- nent, and our fetters were removed. We were then led through ranks of armed men outside the camp, where the Akwamus, headed by their prince, stood ready to start ; a council of war was held, and after some hesitation it was decided that we should return to the camp. Several prisoners passed us, and among them, to our surprise, we recognised the familiar faces of Palm and his wife from Accra, who, at the same moment, caught sight of us, and pointed to the chains on their feet. We could only sadly realise our helplessness, and rack our brains with wonder- ing how they also had fallen into the hands of our enemies. It was evident they had not been taken in battle, as in that case Palm’s life would not have been spared. We were conducted by another official to a new hut, built for us near Adu Bofo’s head quarters, and this time our fetters were fastened on long before evening, and we wore them through four weary days, on the third of which, however, I succeeded in freeing my poor wife from their burden. Thus another Sabbath of our sorrowful captivity went by ; deprived as we were of the comfort of our bibles, we found it a hard and bitter struggle to resign our minds to this terrible dispensation. Our supply of food grew scanty, but at ten o’clock they brought us boiled yams, and in the evening pepper soup with maize, and a bit of skin floating in it, was set before us. This repast left us so hungry that we crawled 22 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASII AN TEE. round in our chains to beg a little more, but without success. Often would we dream of our brethren at the other stations, and picture ourselves among them ; but these visions of peace and plenty only roused the sharpest disappointment when we awoke, while our anxiety for our babe grew apace. My wife held up bravely, and her faith was rewarded by the unexpected receipt of two of our own tins of milk from Adu Bofo ; these would last us a fortnight, by the end of which time we fully trusted to be set at liberty. We also met with much kindness from a son of Adu’s, named Apoku, who paid us frequent visits, and showed his sympathy by cheering words, which gave us much comfort, though his influence was insufficient to effect our release. “ You shall go, only be patient,” he would say to us again and again. And so we waited on through unspeakable privations and endurances, hoping and long- ing for the decision that should put an end to our trial. At last this seemed to be coming, for on the afternoon of the 23d we watched the assembling of a crowd, whose liberal display of bright coloured umbrellas portended a grand discussion. Our chains being removed by the com- mand of Kwating, we were led forward with beating hearts into the semi-circle, eagerly questioning within ourselves whether the expected message had really arrived from our brethren. There sat the Akwamu king, his son on the left, and on the light Bofo, with officers and servants ; while the foreground was covered with a collection of household stuff', the spoils from Anum. Friend Thomas, in his office of interpreter, asked us, with a proud display of very queer English, whether those were our possessions, and on our answering in the affirmative, proceeded to inquire if they were all we had. We replied that they were only a small proportion. “ What is missing ? ” said Thomas. WITH THE ASH ANT EE ARMY. 23 We coulcl not give a list, but explained that much of the station property was not our own, being merely entrusted to Mr. Kiihne for sale by the directors of the mercantile establishment of our mission, and that though we missed many of our own things as well, we could only verify them by the books and inventory. “Where are they?” said Thomas, and again we had to assert our ignorance. All this time he spoke so unintelligibly that I was obliged to arrive at his meaning by questioning him in Tschi ; as, for instance, his pronunciation of “ never mind,” sounded much more like “ noble man ; ” and the difficulty was not decreased by his high estimate of his linguistic powers, which led him to hammer out the few Encdish words he knew, with fierce and stubborn decision. Meanwhile our two cash boxes came to light, and at their command, I drew out my keys and opened the first of them which rested on the knees of Adu Bofo, whose eyes glistened as he caught sight of a string of beads. These were instantly hidden in the folds of his dress, while the silver dollars charmed him exceedingly, and he displayed them to the Akwamu king with cordial expressions of delight. The latter simply nodded his approval, seem- ingly indifferent to the whole concern. Adu Bofo now rose, and offered to return my keys, which I declined, seeing, as I told him, I had no further use for them. I was next called upon to unlock my private box, but being minus the key, this was impos- sible, so they had to be satisfied with a list of its contents and directions for finding the key. They then wrapped both boxes in a table-cloth, together with a case of dessert knives and forks, a dozen silver spoons — our wedding presents — and two cases for shot. We were then dismissed, our hope again dashed to the ground, and we returned to our chains. By way of compensation for our disappointment, a few men followed us, carrying a present 24 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. from Adu Bofo, consisting of three chairs, a large woollen quilt, our baby’s pillow, two shirts, two window curtains, three sheets, a velvet band, and my wedding gloves ; the latter I sent back as useless to me in my present predica- ment. A pair of large cloth shoes, which we vainly attempted to exchange for smaller ones, completed the list of these gracious presents, and of course we tendered our prompt thanks to the donor. Soon afterwards, the general sent us a jar of arrowroot and another of meat extract, with an order to take out the contents and return the pots. By this time we had become so confident that we should speedily regain our liberty that I actually committed the immense folly of returning the offered food. Alas ! with what gratitude we should have hailed a similar gift later on. However, as it was, we all now lay down under our soft woollen counterpane, feeling quite hopeful and contented, and firm in the faith that we should soon be free. It was a wretched night, however, for at twelve o’clock a clap of thunder aroused us, and the rain came pouring through the leafy roof — which was only intended as a protection from the sun — not only soaking us, but streaming through the hut in a flood, and obliging us to take refuge upon the chairs. I tried to shelter the baby by holding over his head a wooden dish, while K. dragged himself along, chains and all, into the more substantial hut of our neighbour. For two hours we sat crouching on those chairs, till the rain ceasing, we once more rolled the soaked counterpane around us and fell asleep. At dawn, we left our miserable resting place, and as we dried our garments by the camp fires, we observed signs of removal, and heard whispers of a march to Coomassie. Our alarm was great, for our chains and coverings were put up for despatch. Our questions were not noticed, so we demanded an interview with Adu Bofo. Our irons WITH THE ASHANTEE ARMY. 25 were removed, and we were led towards the council, but “ he had not time to attend to us,” and we were obliged to return. Our visit had, however, made him uneasy, and about ten o’clock he came to ask what we wanted. “ Free- dom,” cried we, “ freedom ; especially for the sake of our suffering baby. Full well do we know our innocence in reference to this war ; full well do we know that we can- not long survive in our present condition.” We also spoke of ransom, which we knew our brethren would gladly give. With an ironical laugh, peculiar to himself, he turned to his followers, sarcastically remarking, “He promises much money if we take him to Krobi ; ” then, fixing his eyes upon us, he continued, “You must first go over yonder, eat a little and rest, after which I will take you to the coast.” He then dismissed the people, and left us to guess whether he intended to convey us to some hiding- place, or to Coomassie. Thus, after ten days bitter ex- perience of this wretched camp life, we had to resume our onward journey, whither we knew not, but strong in our Master’s assurance, “ Lo, I am with you always, even to the end of the world.” 2G MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASEAN TEE. CHAPTER VI. THE MARCH TO THE VOLTA. On Thursday morning, the 24th of June, we quitted the camp and resumed our old order of march, conducted by a guard of soldiers. After passing a pond on the road filled with headless corpses, we ascended a hill, whence we saw long lines of persons likewise under guard and moving in our direction. There were men, women, and children from Tongo — all prisoners like ourselves. With very brief intervals of rest we walked on through the day ; once we crossed a stream, whose cool, fresh water, for the time, quenched our burning thirst. Though shallow, the current was strong, and I felt most grateful to one of our guides for carrying my wife across, though he grumbled sorely whilst he did so. Night at length brought a short and welcome reprieve, and we sank to rest in a half deserted village, whence we were again driven at daybreak. Though the same dreary prospect was before us, we were somewhat relieved, as our road lay through plantations of corn and yams. Our path was clean and well kept, and led us to a thriving village, where we even enjoyed the shelter of a roof. We were now taken into the presence of the resident chief, before whom we passed in single file, offering the usual salute, and, this ordeal completed, we stood, while the chief with his elders and councillors paid us a similar attention. Carriers then displayed the spoils from Anum, which were duly THE MARCH TO THE VOLTA. 27 examined and removed, by the command of the prince, to be stored in safety. It afterwards transpired that Adu Bofo intended to bestow a proof of confidence upon this individual by leaving the booty in his charge ; but in 1871 the general, on his return to Coomassie, led off the same prince and his people as captives, and when we again met them they were in the most wretched and dejected condition. On retur ning ; to the village we chanced to discover three of our boxes, which seemed to have escaped the general examination. Wondering what was to be their fate, I begged leave to search for a boot, as my poor wife, being now completely barefoot, was at the mercy of the sharp stones. A reluctant consent enabled me to commence a search among a confused mass of medicines, clothes, a thermometer, and a violin, all of which had been ruthlessly thrown together. I at length thankfully drew out one slipper of my own, and we were glad to tie it on before hurrying up a rocky hill the next morning. Under other circumstances we should have felt richly rewarded on reaching the summit of this eminence, where a magnificent panorama burst upon our view. Before us, as far as the eye could reach, lay broad and verdant plains — a garden of beauty, bordered in the far distance by the winding silver thread of the Volta. For a moment we rejoiced in hailing the river as an old friend ; then, with a flash, the conviction was forced back upon us, that if we crossed the Volta, it would only be on our sure and sad way to Coomassie. So we stood in silence, each of us reading in the other’s eyes the reflection of our own sorrowful thoughts ; and thus the vision passed, while we turned to encounter the stern reality of the descent. And, oh ! what a descent it was, leading us down among rocks that were almost perpendicular ! My feet seemed to touch the head of the person in front, while we 28 MISSIONARY LIFE IN A SHAN TEE. cautiously clung to our footing, and crept on with slow, painful movements ; when, after three-quarters of an hour’s sliding, straining and balancing, we again stood safely on even ground, though with wounded feet and trembling knees, we felt deeply sensible that a special Providence had watched over our way. Our inexorable guards now urged us rapidly forward over the beautiful plain, but no words can paint the thirst of that fearful mid-day heat. While we could, we kept wet cloths wrapped round the head of our infant, but the supply of water failed us at last, and then all hope seemed gone. Once, in a slight hollow of the road, we came upon a little muddy pool, and this we lapped up greedily, like Gideon’s warriors. It was past noon when we reached a small cluster of trees, where a short interval of repose was granted, while yams and a little water were placed before us, being the first food that had passed our lips that day. Our journey then took a north-westerly direction in the course of the river, which we could not yet see. The shadows were lengthening before we staggered through the streets of a village, Asuaso (called Dschome on the map), and once more looked upon the broad waters of the fair Yolta, gilded into splendour by the rays of a setting sun. Close beside its high bank lay our night quarters, where our fetters were fastened, and as Asuaso joined Ashantee, provisions were preremptorily demanded by our people, and we thus obtained the gift of a hen with some corn, in addition to the usual yams. On Sunday, the 27th of June, arrangements were made for our transit across the river in two canoes, so slight in structure that any movement endangered our safety. Our gallant leader, fearing to risk his own life, sent us on first, while he calmly stood contemplating the perilous undertaking, and when all the rest were safely landed, he THE MARCH TO THE VOLTA. 29 finally ventured to follow, after which we resumed our journey into the unknown regions before us. Here we will make a slight pause, in order to introduce some details of the company in which we travelled. The first party was composed of old Ageana* and his staff. He was a bald, grey -bearded man of sixty ; surly, dis- contented, and feared by all. He appeared always angry, except when under the influence of drink, when he boast- fully related wonderful histories of himself and his ances- tors ; at other times he made no friends, and his be- haviour to us was gruff and savage in the extreme. Him- self a slave of Adu Bofo, he, in his turn, owned numerous slaves, and a great collection of wives. His son Kwabena — a faithful copy of his father — was a confirmed drunk- ard, though only eighteen years of age, and his rude arrogance and covetousness added a good deal to our dis- comfort. His relative, Opoku, the inseparable companion and chief councillor of Ageana, was an aged man, and an adept in cunning craftiness, deceit being stamped indelibly on his every feature. He was a person who well knew how to carry his point, and when flattery was unavailing, the expression of his rage became truly awful. A few slaves completed this first party. The next group (“ our soldiers ”) was formed by three warriors, each about thirty years of age. Adu Kwaku, a hairy little man of sanguine temperament; Bobie, a quiet, phlegmatic fellow ; and Angfwiri the youngest, a man of ambiguous character, who said very little, but always contrived to keep in old Ageana’s good graces, which made him an object of envy to the others. They all presented a very singular appearance, having twisted their long hair into small tufts, which they regarded as peculiarly handsome. They were rough and rude at first, but as time wore on they became our best friends, and * The g in this name is pronounced hard. 30 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANT EE. treated us with as much consideration as was possible in our forlorn condition. Each soldier was attended by a lad, and this trio of boys brought up the rear of our pro- cession. In the centre of this company we marched as slaves, daily enduring a fresh torrent of abuse ; the old leader himself taking special delight in trying to extin- guish our hopes, while he drew lively pi ctures of the state of things in Coomassie, and assured us that “ our heads would be cut off there.” Later on, however, it became evident that the king had no intention of injuring us, so that we could again breathe freely. And now, as we look back upon the terrible ordeal, we can thank God for so ordering our way that we learnt to know the Ashantee people not as our inferiors in power and position— as is usually the case with missionaries in their relations to heathen tribes — but as masters and superiors, seeing that our lives and welfare depended on their mercy and pleasure. Thus I trust we gained a new and more complete stock of information and experience for our future work. FROM THE VOLTA TO OKWANO. 31 CHAPTER VII. FROM THE VOLTA TO OKWANO. It was on a sacl Sunday morning that we lost sight of our beautiful river, and plunged, in a westerly direction, into the unknown regions beyond. A thick fog, which gradu- ally turned into heavy rain, corresponded with our cheer- less feelings, as we plodded over a path so narrow that the tall wet grass on either side soaked our poor ragged garments through and through, and filled us with dread as to the effects of this exposure on our little boy. Ageana hunted us forward with abuse, and seemed to look on the bad weather as a fault of ours. Every petition for rest met with the reply, “ Duom, duom !” (forward) “No rest will be given before evening.” However, in the afternoon a halt was made, when we suddenly came upon some empty huts, seemingly built for the accommodation of travellers ; and we were able to lay our tired darling to rest on a bed of leaves while a fire was lighted, at which we dried our clothes. My petition for the use of a few of the articles in our own trunks was disregarded, though seconded by the pleading of our soldier guards, and after a scanty supper of boiled corn — our only meal that day — our irons were secured. The next morning was brilliant, but our early walk through dripping foliage drenched us completely. After partaking of a small maize loaf we pursued our way through tangled woods, treading the marshy soil with grateful appreciation of the shade afforded by trees ; but 32 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIANTEE. as our path was constantly crossed by wide ditches and long drooping branches, we grew more stiff than ever, by dint of stooping, climbing; and leaping, and emerged on the open plain less able to bear the burning rays of the sun. Still this was a red letter day, for two rare luxuries awaited us. Beside a spring one of our soldiers found a quantity of snails, which were hailed as a prize and made into broth ; and never was food more welcome than this repast proved to us in our half-starved condition. Nor was this all. In a clear brook, two feet in depth, we were actually allowed to bathe — for the first time in our cap- tivity. In grateful relief we forgot for the moment our chains, and soon sank into a deep, refreshing sleep. The weary plain was crossed at length, and on the first of July we saw in the distance a glorious range of moun- tains, and stood on the banks of a fine river, some eighty feet in width. As this was to be crossed, I plunged in to. try the depth, and finding it reached my waist, I asked that my wife might be helped in making the passage. As this was contemptuously refused, I was myself forced to carry her over, a feat which I am thankful to say was accomplished in safety, while Ageana, to our surprise, took charge of the little one. On landing, we found a row of camp huts, built in the beginning of the year by Adu Bofo, on his march to Akwamu, and here Kwateng met us with the caravan, and I extorted a reluctant consent to our abstracting a pair of socks out of one of our trunks, my wife being by this time nearly barefoot. Three soldiers superintended this search. I also ventured to ask Ageana for the loan of one of the chairs with which Adu Bofo had presented us, and which he had appro- priated while the others were left behind, but his savage reply was, “ leave it alone !” Our ears were now saluted with the glad news that if we pushed on rapidly, we might hope on the morrow to On thf. way from the Volta to Okwao FROM THE VOLTA TO OKWAO. 33 reach a town, and find abundance of food, the mere thought of which invigorated us, though knowing the difficulty of carrying supplies, we had refrained from murmuring at the scanty fare that we had hitherto shared with our captors. The Ashantees being a hardy race inured from youth to the severest simplicity, are able to march day after day at a quick, steady pace, with short intervals of rest, and a modi- cum of food. They lie down to sound sleep at night, after a light supper of corn, waking refreshed and strengthened to resume their way at sunrise. Our route led us toward a range of blue mountains, which called up sweet and sad associations of our distant home. The rocky ground echoed to our footsteps, and on reaching the first elevation the high outline stretched far away to the right, ending abruptly in a square rock some two hundred feet in length, which curious conformation riveted our interest, and turned out to be the shrine of the great Fetish of Okwao. We now crossed the high plateau, and prepared for a fresh ascent, toiling onward wearily, as no food had yet passed our lips that day. In two hours a brook was reached, beside which we found seated several members of our own party enjoying a meal of bread. Famished with hunger we expected a respite and some refreshment, but to my intense and bitter indignation this was con- temptuously refused. Even now my strongest feelings are roused when memory recalls the blustering urgency of Ageana, as he roared his command, “ Duom, duom ” (up ! forward), not even permitting us to taste the water at our feet, or to fill our calabash. Though we obeyed, I can fairly say that my blood bdiled with anger, and for some hours we endured agonies of suffering. At about three o’clock in the afternoon a pause was made for a few minutes, and a small roll was thrown us, D 34 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. after eating which we entered the deep shades of a prime- val forest. Still suffering from the keenest pangs of hunger, which had been only augmented by the cruel fragment supplied, our strength was unequal to the strain, and we repeatedly staggered and fell, our feet re- fusing to move at our bidding, spite of the repeated in- junctions of our guides to rouse and exert ourselves as our goal was near. At this critical juncture a messenger of God’s provi- dence appeared in the shape of one of the soldiers who came to meet us at a bend of the road, carrying some maize cakes, every crumb of which we devoured with avidity, and being thus strengthened, half an hour more brought us to the plantation on the outskirts of the town. Here we again fell in with the captives from Tongo, and to our delight saw large quantities of maize being carried off the fields. Kwateng soon brought us a small supply of palm wine, which revived our fainting powers, and with thankful hearts we entered the clean, well kept street of Tafo, the capital of Okwao, which boasted five or six hundred inhabitants. Our reception was superior to anything we had hoped for ; indeed the people vied with each other in kindness, and no rude jesting escaped their lips as they gazed at us in wonder and pity. * We were shown into a small room in the centre of the town, which seemed to have been specially prepared for us, and the kind owner, un- willing to subject us to the annoyance of inquisitive bystanders, soon removed us into one which was more spacious. We were now prepared to show ourselves to the people of influence in the town, who consisted chiefly * The average of our daily march was about thirty English miles, sometimes more, at other times less. I can regard it as nothing less than a miracle, when I think of my delicate wife’s endurance of this con- tinued physical effort during so many weeks. FROM THE VOLTA TO OEWAO. 35 of women, the wives of officials gone to the war, all painted white, and richly decorated with gigris and fetish charms, worn for the sake of their husbands, for whom they also made a daily procession through the town, invoking the protection of their gods. After ex- changing the customary civilities with this group, in the midst of which sat an honoured priest, we were led to the chief, a small man whom we found enthroned on his doorstep, with his goodnatured wife beside him. He testified his gratification by warmly pressing our hands. Scarcely had we regained our rooms, when gifts of food came pouring in from the hospitable people on all sides ; boiled maize, cassada, and an enormous dish presented by the men of the town. Gladly and thankfully we pro- ceeded, for the first time in twenty days, to satisfy our hunger, and fully enjoyed the good mutton broth and well seasoned fufu. The priest an old man, sent palm wine with yams and bananas, while to complete the feast, a present of pine apples arrived from the wife of the chief. These were however returned by Kwabena, the surly son of our leader, and upon the kind woman urging the acceptance of her gift, he himself made off’ with the wel- come supplies, and also appropriated portions of the other food, informing us, with his usual politeness, that he would take care of our provisions. On this memorable evening, the first glimmer of light broke in upon us, for we had at length met with some sympathy and humanity, and not least from the priest himself — indeed we afterwards learnt that such conduct was characteristic of this class. And now hope whispered that perhaps the worst of our journey lay behind us, and that some civilized towns might be in our forward path. But for our helpless babe of nine months we still trembled. Could he endure much longer the want of proper food (for the milk was almost gone), and the hard- 36 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIAN TEE. ships of such travel as ours. Alas ! in the evening, the momentary gleam of sunshine, which had brightened our toilsome way, was clouded, for our fetters were once more fastened, though the observers looked on us with pity, evidently believing we were innocent sufferers. Very early in the morning we found ourselves again on the march, and had already left the town behind us, when we were overtaken by a messenger from the kind chief who had so befriended us, and despite the anger of our conductor, he felt compelled to let us return to the outskirts, where the chief stood waiting our approach. To his enquiry as to how we could leave him without a part- ing word, we replied, that being prisoners we had no will of our own. He then refreshed us with a draught of palm wine, and with thanks and blessing we bade him farewell. Our journey this day was through woods, which sheltered us from the heat, and lessened the distressing thirst. We were gradually ascending until noon, when we arrived at a town whose name, Abetifi, signified the “ Tops of Palms,” and thus, whichever way we turned our eyes, nothing but palm trees met our view. While ar- rangements were pending for our introduction to the chief, we stood outside the town, and Ageana with two soldiers entered. He was not flattered by his reception, and re- turned crestfallen, while to us the kindness of the people was great, and for some reason not apparent, we remained among them three days. This rest was the more welcome as our babe was suffer ing from fever, and Mr. K. had a deep wound in his heel produced by the heavy irons, and causing him intense pain in walking. The good people, high and low, alike vied with each other in ministering to us, and most deeply did we feel their cheering attentions. The priests visited us repeatedly, always exclaiming, “ These must be men of God.” FROM THE VOLTA TO OKWAO. 37 J ust at this time a comforter was sent us, in the shape of a young man who modestly presented us with four bananas on a wooden dish, and begged us not to be too sorrowful, “ for,” said he, “ if it be God’s will, and with the gracious approval of the king, you will soon be back in your homes.” These words soothed us, coming as they did from a native of Ashantee, who had, it seems, spent several years working for our missionary brother, Mr. Mohr, at Akuapem. We felt almost as if we had met with an old friend in talking with him ; his name was Yau, and his whole manner and bearing bore the trace of his association with Christian customs and people. But the journey had to be resumed, and our next resting- place was Abene, the residence of the Akwari king, who was absent, but both priests and people showed us extreme kindness, filling our little room with stores of provisions, which taught by previous experience, we carefully guarded. In the evening we once more enjoyed the luxury of a bath, in a small river which ran through the town. Thus again were our griefs alleviated, and though we dared not ask a question as to the distance we still had to traverse, we ventured to hope such happy experiences would continue till we reached Coomassie. Alas ! while indulging in these blissful dreams, we heard to our dismay that our next nights would be spent in the bush, and our hearts again sank at the thought of this new trial for our tender child; yet even then, the assurance of our Heavenly Father’s loving care was our support and stay. 38 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE . CHAPTER VIII. JOURNEY TO AG U AGO, AND THE HALT THERE. 7-28 July, 1869. Our next journey lay through well- watered palm forests, where our sufferings from hunger made the few pine apples we had brought with us a most valuable help. About five in the evening we found our burden-bearers resting in an old camping ground, which sight aroused the rage of Ageana, so that the poor tired creatures sprang to their feet, and started afresh with their loads. One woman venturing to complain of its weight, was irritated to the last pitch of endurance by the storm of abuse poured forth on her. She returned a volley of angry words, seized her load, and made off to the woods, where she was followed in pursuit by our entire company. Thus left alone with Ageana, we were accused as the authors of this mischief, for said he, “ it was your things they were carrying,” an assertion which was utterly false, for with the exception of the chair he had appropriated, and would never even lend us, they had nothing of ours at all. Unripe bananas boiled in their skins were now set be- fore us. After trying in vain to eat them we sank down on the damp ground — a few leaves our only protection, a stone our pillow — and thus, with our irons clasped round us, we once more fell asleep till the morning, when we pursued our journey still fasting, so that for twenty -four hours not a morsel passed our lips. Our people had cooked themselves a savoury soup before our eyes, from a JO U Ryu 7 TO AGUAGO. 39 squirrel which they had shot, and had also eaten corn and ground nuts to the full ; but it was evening before we obtained our pittance. At this place we observed some huts roofed with branches of banana, and thus knew that a plantation was at hand. Might we light a fire in the night, I asked of our hard-hearted leader ? It was per- mitted, but still we were sorely tried ; our last drop of milk was gone, and though our darling babe had cut some teeth, and hunger made him devour some of our coarse food, we knew he could not long be supported thus. Towards noon the next day, however, a man passed us carrying two large pisangs (a native fruit) and Ageana begged them for the child. They were reluctantly yielded, and one was baked and eaten by the little fellow with great enjoy- ment, whilst we treasured the other for the morrow. After some further marching, the crowing of a cock greeted our ears, and we soon entered the town of Aguago, whose young chief came out some little way to bid us welcome. Being considered too early an hour to offer us palm wine, gin was brought instead, which however we refused, to the delight of Ageana, who eagerly appro- priated it. Corn, bananas, and a dish of fufu, were set before us, to all of which we did full justice. The houses in this place mostly consisted of only one room open in front, the entrance being formed by a few steps, polished daily with an oily red earth. We were taken into a small yard surrounded by four of these apartments, each of them about five feet by six, so that we barely found space to lie down in the one allotted to us. Ageana took possession of the second, and the slaves of another, while the fourth served as a kitchen. All the luggage was now unpacked, and it soon became evident that we were to stay here, as the event proved, much longer than we wished. A few daj^s passed and then we observed that the wily Opoku, Ageana’s 40 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASEANTEE. chief adviser, was prepai'ing for a journey, in which he was accompanied by two of our soldiers. It now transpired that they were bound for Coomassie, and would be back in a fortnight. Conjectures were useless, but our imagination was busy. Sometimes we apprehended that we were to be detained here until the return of the army, or that this might be the preparation for the final stroke. Then the thought of our helpless infant lying beside us so pale and quiet was too ago- nizing to contemplate, and we could only look to the strong One for strength. In order to supply the lack of milk, we tried to persuade our sullen leader to procure some eggs. Of course, he would not buy them, but at length we prevailed on him to go to the chief, who gave us his own store, with the permission to beg more in the town. Most touching it was to see how eagerly our poor little one swallowed this nourishment, and very heartily did we thank the Lord. Our life was now very monotonous : as soon as we dared to stir in the morning, we roasted a ripe red fruit for the babe’s breakfast, and then strolled about or sat under a tree. Our appearance at first excited much curiosity, and the people flocked around us, but we had no heart to notice them. At eleven o’clock they brought us fufu in a broken dish that resembled a dog trough, and we com- pleted our meal with bananas, which we were allowed to pick freely in the plantation. To make up for this indulgence our regular supplies were curtailed, and a bit of meat as large as a nut was given for three. Ageana had bought the leg of a boar for two shillings, and every day for three weeks, cut off the supply he thought fit for the soup, and after directing his attendants to take it to “ the slaves,” troubled himself no further. We crouched in our wretched room during the hottest hours of the day, and most thankful indeed should we JOURNEY TO AG U AGO. 41 have been for a gospel or book of psalms. Later on, always attended by a keeper, we sallied forth to the brook to try and do a little washing, but as we did not possess a single article of toilet use, our attempts were very cir- cumscribed, and we were shockingly tormented with things we cannot name. However, in the eyes of our persecutors, we were supposed to be treated very fairly. We had now worn our clothing incessantly for six weeks, and our only method of bodily refreshment consisted in dipping our linen in water as frequently as possible. Ageana’s nightly revels interfered with our evening meal, which was rarely provided, though we were required to present ourselves regularly for the fastening on of our fetters, after which, crawling as best we could to our narrow quarters, we usually strange to say, slept soundly. Our breakfast hour was one of severe trial, on account of our babe, who was often prostrate with fever, requiring comforts impossible to obtain. We had not even the use of the common fire, which was claimed and engrossed by the entire company; when I besought mercy in the shape of a little gold dust, to procure some eggs, I was derisively told by Ageana he had none to throw away. With tears in my eyes, the babe in my arms, and his mother by my side, I went from house to house pleading for help ; many were touched, and some bestowed on us the deli- cacy we so much desired. One afternoon being thus employed, we encountered two messengers of the king, one of whom on hearing of the cruelty and injustice we suffered, offered payment for four eggs, causing our very hearts to bless him. It was about this time that we chanced also to meet a petty chief, who had visited his brother at Akem, and become acquainted with our missionary there. Hearing that we too were missionaries he believed us to be good people, and many a time a gift of fruit or eggs reached us from 42 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. him ; truly did we pray that this cup of cold water might not lose its reward. We were now less strictly watched, and allowed to walk up and down the yard unattended by a slave. Still it happened one morning that — breakfast being late and hunger pressing — my wife took two bananas which no one in a plantation village would have noticed ; but Ageana saw it, and springing from his chair abused her till she wept. Her tears increased his indignation, and with violent curses he repeated the threat of cutting off her head. When I said, We shall have a word about this in Coomassie, his son screamed with rage, and extended the threat to us all. Again, when we begged our soup without pepper, which caused Mr. K. much suffering, it was ordered to be made so hot that, spite of our hunger, we could not touch it. The rage of the old man was then extreme, and the water in which some fruit had been boiled was given us in its place. While we stayed here the natives often called me “ Seese.” This we discovered to be a variation on the name of our missionary brother, Suss, which, strange to say, seemed familiar to all the Ashantee people. They had probably made his acquaintance at Gyadam, and he appeared universally beloved and respected, so that I was honoured in being: taken for his brother. Mr Kuhne’s name they could not pronounce, so he was usually called “ The long one,” or “ the white one,” to distinguish him from me. One night we woke under the dreadful sensation caused by the bite of hundreds of ants, with which we were covered. Helpless in the darkness, and with our feet chained, we could only crawl away and find refuge among the cooking utensils, where we remained until the morning:. But a still worse trouble was the loss of our rug, which had remained behind ; thus we had no pro- tection from the cold ground, and palm wine being here JOURNEY TO AGUAGO. 43 very cheap, Ageana indulged in his favourite vice, and after boasting of his greatness as he sat on our chair, he would cross over to us, and say, with tipsy sympathy, “ if you are hungry just come to me, and say, Father, we are hungry, and you shall have all you wish.” In his sober moments, all sympathy vanished. Spite of all our loving care, our dear child daily faded away ; his once rosy cheeks were pale and hollow, so that our hearts ached when he fixed his brilliant eyes on his mother’s face as we took our food, and seemed almost to say, “ Have you nothing but this empty bottle for me ? ” He never fretted, but sat as if he knew the whole case, and was resigned. On the evening of July 25th, Opaku returned from Coomassie, finding Ageana as usual intoxicated ; yet he was soon seen running about and crying, “The king thanks me,” from which we inferred he had had a message of approval. From our soldiers we learned that we were to be cared for and conducted to a town, and that two small packets of gold dust, part of which was intended for us, had been divided by Ageana among his own party. We were left in uncertainty as to the king’s commands concerning the future, and could only commit ourselves to the heart of our loving Saviour, and rest upon His assuring words, “ It is I, be not afraid.” 44 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH AN TEE. CHAPTER IX. THE LITTLE ONE GOES HOME IN TOTORASE. Early on the 28tli of July we continued our journey in a south-westerly direction. We passed through a fine timber forest, and after three hours march, reached the village of Amantra, whose chief received us kindly, and was touched by our request for eggs for our sinking child. As we rested in the open square, we were visited by the whole population, and upon our gratefully accepting a red pisang, the people ran to their homes to fetch us corn, bananas, bread, and even a small piece of bacon, * which, though no larger than a walnut, we carefully divided. Our old savage would not let us stay here, seem- ing to grudge us the friendly offerings of the people, so we were driven on till we reached a group of huts, where plenty of palm wine could be procured, which was always an attraction to Ageana. I begged to be permitted to go back for a promised supply of eggs, urging the responsibility that rested upon him, of sacrificing our babe’s life for want of suitable food. This rendered him furious ; he rushed about like a wild beast, and at last seized a chain and secured me with it, while my poor wife sat by weeping. Brother . K. * I may here remark that pork cannot be recommended as safe eating in Ashantee, seeing that pigs are permitted to wander about and search for their own food, which (in Coomassie), very frequently consists of slaughtered human flesh ! THE LITTLE ONE GOES HOME. 45 finally took him in hand, and the chain was removed. We then heard from a slave that two eggs had been offered to a Fetish at the spring, and if we were not afraid of the idol, we might fetch them. Under the escort of a lad, I at once went and succeeded in finding them ; it is true they had been laid on the top of some oil and yam, yet my wife rejoiced at the treasure. We were now told that our next march would be a long one, and as we started on it very hungry and with scanty supplies, the prospect was dreary enough, hut the forest still protected us from heat, while a mountain stream crossing the path, slaked our thirst. It was after- noon before we were allowed to halt for refreshment, and after fighting our way for some distance through tall stiff grass, our guides discovered that they had missed the track ; as it was now impossible to reach Sukoree, we rested for the night at a small plantation village, where after the longest day’s march we had yet made, an unexpected joy awaited us. We had eaten our usual spare supper, and had requested some stock yams for the child, which were refused, so we took leave to help our- selves from the abundance growing around. A violent storm drove us to a hut for refuge, and as night had fallen, we lay down to sleep unfettered. After a while, Ageana came up shouting, “ white men, are you asleep ?” “Yes,” we replied (for “da” in Ashantee signifies both “ sleeping” and “ lying down”). Upon this he left us, and for the first time for seven weeks we had the delight of resting our weary limbs unchained. As we approached Ashantee proper, we were struck by the increasing fertility and richness of the well-watered country. In the vicinity of every important place the roads were good, and sometimes for miles together, suit- able for traffic. Near the entrance of each village, we noticed jars, sticks, corn, and eggs heaped up as an offer- 46 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANTE E. mg to the Fetish ; and the houses, whether scattered or in groups, were mostly surrounded by palm and banana gardens in picturesque variety ; sometimes they formed a street, intersected by lanes and by-ways. Retracing our steps on the following morning, we soon found the right path, and reached a large village, where some women pitying our suffering babe, supplied us with eggs. At the next place, which was surrounded by banana woods, the head man came forward to greet us, and as usual, gave us our quarters in four rooms surrounding a square court ; Ageana of course chose the best. The name of this village was Totorase, and we stayed there ten days — days of deep grief they proved ! The next morning, July 31st, two slaves were de- spatched to Coomassie to announce our near approach (and as we subsequently heard), to tell the king of the critical state of our child. As long as he had played or seemed amused, they believed that we were hypocritically trying to obtain dainties for ourselves, but now when it was too late, they became impressed with the true state of the case, and all except Ageana endeavoured to supply him with better nourishment, and were even willing to petition the king for a milch cow. The young queen of Sokoree, who now visited us, richly adorned with gold and fetish cords, showed us a good deal of sympathy. She offered her hand to each, and afterwards kindly sent us some eggs, while the people supplied us with fruit ; but these comforts came too late to save our darling. His little wasted frame, sharp features, and sunken eyes, will long remain as pain- ful pictures in our memory, and often it seemed as if he were asking, “ how long.” Each morning after taking his egg, we carried him to the brook, and many a silent tear fell into the stream as we bathed him. Then we would saunter up and down THE LITTLE ONE GOES HOME. 47 the beautiful banana gardens, singing simple hymns, such as “ I want to be an angel,” “ My Father waits for me in Heaven,” &c. How we shrank from the thought of parting with our little treasure, increasingly dear as he faded away, and earnestly did we plead that he might yet be spared to us ; still we found comfort in the words which lifted our hearts to the better land. Happily no severe pain tried the fragile, worn-out body ; weakness and intense thirst were his chief sufferings, making him perpetually crave for drink, especially at night. One day, the sun shining very strongly upon our garden walk, we turned aside under the bananas, and the guard missing us from the usual place, reported it to Ageana, who at once ordered his son to fasten on our irons. Fortunately Bobie the other soldier appeared, and when we explained that we had only sought shelter for the child’s sake, he succeeded in getting our chains removed, but we were peremptorily forbidden ever to take such a liberty again. Meanwhile, the little fellow’s weakness increased, and the end was evidently at hand. At times he lay quite still, but painful restlessness succeeded. Kind people came constantly to inquire for him and offer sympathy, while the queen brought eggs and tried to comfort us with the assurance that if we saw the king, the child would recover. When I begged some palm oil for a night light, telling them he was dying, they still tried to console us saying, “ No, no, he must not die ; the king will not allow it.” Oh ! how hard it was to suppress the bitter feelings which would rise against those who had murdered this innocent babe by their cruelty ! To our surprise he lived till morning, when his eyes brightened ; he ate an egg with appetite, and even began playing with the buttons on his mother’s jacket, which he had long ceased to notice. This was only the last flickering of the flame, he gave one more look of silent intensity, as if he 48 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASEANTEE. wished to say, “ good bye,” and all was over. Precious child, into whose brief span of life so much of suffer- ing was crowded ! Thou callest to us, “ do not forget Ashantee and thy grave is a token that the healing Cross shall one day reach that far off land. When the people heard us praying they came to the door of the room, and looked earnestly and sadly at the corpse. After vainly seeking for some boards to make a coffin, I begged our visitors to plait two baskets of palm branches, one to serve as a shell, the other as a cover, and here the precious tiny form was laid, covered with his ragged clothing. Brother K. picked some flowers to put in his hands, and according to the custom of the country, a few mats and two yards of calico were sent by the princess, a mark of sympathy which gratified and soothed us in our grief. At four o’clock we laid him in a peaceful grave, under beautiful banana trees, the usual burying- place for children, only two hundred paces from our house. I had told the chief that I should be glad to see the villagers at the grave, hoping to have the opportunity of saying a few words to them ; but none of them appeared, whether from fear or other reasons I cannot tell. Even our own people who followed me at first as I carried the burden, soon halted and looked on from a distance. Only two slaves stood beside us. When I had gently deposited the little basket in its last resting place, I prayed in German for giace and strength in this hour of darkness, after which the slaves who had dug it, filled up the grave. Oh, that when the trumpet sounds to call thee from thy quiet rest, many who are now in heathen darkness may rise with thee to the resurrection of life ! According to another custom of the country, the chief now sent us a large pitcher of palm wine, and the people used their utmost persuasions to make us drink, but we THE LITTLE ONE GOES HOME. 49 refused, and sat down behind the house, pleading for help to he enabled to say, “ He hath done all things well.” After an hour of quiet grief (during which Ageana had been drinking with his friends, probably celebrating a kind of “ wake ”), we were summoned to meet the soldier who had gone to Coomassie for the cow, and had returned accompanied by an ambassador, wearing a large round gold plate on his breast. They were followed by two soldier boys bearing six ells of coloured cloth, a third with a sugar loaf in a brass plate on his head, and a fourth with a stately ram. The king sent us greeting, and was grieved to hear of the illness of our child ; a milch cow could not be found, but the cloth he said would form a bed, and the ram and sugar would be useful ; he had also sent some gold dust, in value about nine dollars, of which Ageana took possession. He hoped we should be easy and have patience, for in a short time we were to appear before him, and be permitted to return to our own home. We replied briefly that “ the things had come too late.” The ambassador then endeavoured to comfort us by assuring us of the friendship of the king, and his wish that we should be sorrowful no longer. His kind words found their way to our hearts, and the prospect of return- ing to our work and to our brethren, prevented our sleeping much that night. On Sunday, August 8th, we arose in a changed position ; no longer slaves, but directing as masters the disposal of our presents. The sheep we told the people to kill , and distribute among the whole party according to rank. “ That’s right,” they answered, and then went off to the slaughter, spoiling our Sunday’s quiet by urging us to be present at the cutting up. As may be supposed, little remained for our own share, but we had the thanks of many, and were now for awhile important persons. Ageana in his new character of servant had become very E 50 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANT EE. obliging, offering us the gold dust, which we however desired him to keep, to purchase for us what we needed, regretting our folly when it was too late. The sugar was also left in his care, and the cloth alone remained to us. In the evening we visited our little grave, scattering a few fruit stones on the mound, hoping by and by to plant some small shrubs to mark the resting place of our first born, and we meant often to repeat our visit, though in this we were disappointed. The Ashantee observances on occasions of death and burial are precise and prolonged. We will briefly sketch them. When a rich man dies, his wives break out into cries of lamentation, and then proceed to wash the corpse, adorn it with pearls and gold, carefully paint it, put on its best apparel, and then leave it as if asleep. Delicacies of all kinds are presented by friends, and the dish the man most enjoyed when living is prepared from slaughtered sheep and fowls. His property is then placed round him, and his pipe in his mouth. The wailing is occasionally inter- rupted to permit his wives to press food upon him, or to enquire his wishes, — the men meanwhile eat and drink outside. The length of the wake depends upon the rank of the deceased, and friends supply the needful ex- pense. On the second or third day the corpse, in a basket coffin, is taken out through a hole broken in the wall for the purpose, for it may not pass through any door ; and followed by its jewels and other property, it is placed in the middle of the village, amid firing and doleful songs. In the case of prominent persons, human sacrifices are offered, to accompany the departed on his long journey to the spirit world, while food and palm wine are placed on the grave for a set time (but eventually only once a year), and thus the wake ends. With men of high rank, the ceremony is sometimes repeated a second and a third time. TO DWABEN AND ABANKORO. 51 CHAPTER X. TO DWABEN AND ABANKORO. The king’s messenger was preparing to return to Coom- assie, so we charged him with thanks for the royal gifts, and with a request for a comb and scissors to cut off our hair, for reasons too unpleasant to mention, incident on long neglect, and which prevented sleep. Our stay at Totorase was now suddenly broken up, and we were informed, to our great delight, that we were to start for the capital. We paid a farewell visit to the little grave, feeling that since our darling was gone, we need no longer dread the hardships of the way. We were also under the protection of the king’s friendly messenger, who treated us with respect, while our guides ceased their arrogant and abusive demonstrations, and Ageana himself did not dare oppress us, though he grumbled more than ever. The road was good, and in an hour we reached Sokoree, a custom-house station of Ashantee proper, where it is necessary, for all travellers from the interior, to obtain official permission before proceeding further. The princess of the place, who sent us a present of palm wine, had gone to the next village, Afiguase, where we found her after three quarters of an hour’s walk. The usual ceremonious salutations being over, we were permitted to experience a great deal of kindness at her hands ; and our friend, M. Bonnat, who visited her a few weeks later, was cared for by this kind woman as if he had been a relation of her own. 52 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. We met with many plantation villages in this fruitful plain, where com, rice, pisang, maize, yams, and ground nuts abounded. About four o’clock we approached a large town named Dwaben, and prepared ourselves for a noisy reception. We soon reached a noble avenue of trees, such as I had never before seen in Africa, and under their glorious shade we entered a fine wide street, with whitewashed, and two-storied houses. Of course we were speedily surrounded by the entire population, the youthful portion of which especially, hailed us with riotous excite- ment, spite of all the remonstrances of the royal messenger. We had already met with some specimens of the savage female army, who in time of war dance twice a day through the towns of Asliantee, with howls and shrieks uttered for the benefit of their absent warriors. Our appearance in Dwaben was the signal for a grand flourish on their part ; no sooner did we appear in sight than these white painted figures rushed forward to meet us, leaping and gesticulating like maniacs, and brandishing their knives amid unearthly yells. One of them waved her sword full in the face of my wife, and then swept onward, screaming fearfully. In contrast to this frightful exhibition, we were cordially received by the older men of the town, who came to shake hands with us, and offered palm wine to the detriment of Ageana’s sobriety, who soon de- clared, with drunken solemnity, that we must stay here all night, as he could not bear to forego the honour of exhibiting his prisoners. However, the benevolent mes- senger interfered in our favour, being unwilling to expose us any longer to the diabolical tumult that surrounded us, and our leader was at length cempelled to yield after a hot altercation, which ended in our being presented to the king of Dwaben. This potentate ranks next to the king of Ashantee, of TO DWABEN AND ABANKORO. 53 whom he is a relative, Dwaben being the second town in the empire ; and though not so rich as his rival, the sub- jects of this prince are more numerous. The story goes, that long ago a king of Ashantee had two sons, to the younger of whom (the child of a slave), he left his gold and the throne of Ashantee, while the elder inherited his sword and the throne of Dwaben. At a later period, the throne of Ashantee was once saved by a king of Dwaben, who intended, and almost succeeded in obtaining it for himself, but finally fell a victim to the fortunes of civil war, and was compelled for a long while to take refuge at Akem. Rivalry and ill-feeling has not yet entirely died out between the tribes. Dwaben appeared to us better built and more imposing than Coomassie, and it is also more cleanly kept. The buildings are quite picturesque, with their leafy coverings, and many a pointed roof appears among the rows of houses. The Dampans (small halls which open on the streets), are raised four or five feet above the level of the ground, and ornamented with pictures and rough frescoes, done in white earth, on a background of reddish brown clay. A messenger of the prince, distinguished by a gold sword, from which hung a large golden shell, now con- ducted us to the palace, a richly ornamented building, the broad gateway of which was surmounted by some gold sandals. We entered a large court surrounded by arched galleries, whence many curious eyes peered down upon us. Several hundred courtiers were arranged in a semi-circle, and in the centre of the display sat the king, under a large tent umbrella, profusely ornamented with gold and triangular amulets. His majesty was a large stout man, with a number of golden rings on his arms and legs, otherwise his appearance was simple, and he made on us an impression of greater dignity than the minor chiefs of the Coast had done. We 54 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. passed before the first group of court heralds, who wore caps of monkey skin ; and then before the sword-bearers and various inferior chiefs, after which, raising our hats to his majesty, we retired and tasted some palm wine, while Ageana and our people indulged in deep potations of this beverage. After thanking the king and answering a few simple questions, we were allowed to depart, and the royal messenger succeeded in sheltering us in a quiet plantation village for the night, whence on the following day we proceeded to Abankoro. Here we found a troop of women who were dancing and singing wild songs, which increased in vehemence on our approach. They naturally took us for prisoners of war, and swung their fans in our faces with the maddest gestures ; but the wife of the chief, who represented her husband in his absence, welcomed us so cordially that we forgot this unpleasing reception, little dreaming however, that Abankoro was to be our abode for six long months, for we were now only a moderate day’s journey from the capital where we had hoped soon to be liberated. Abankoro is a well-built place, having a large street which resembles a square, laid out with shady trees ; a contrast to the poorer quarters, where the huts are pitched about anyhow. Elevated on four poles at the end of the village we met with a Fetish house, inside of which a globe shaped mound of white earth marks the burial place of a python snake, to which offerings of palm wine are presented, being poured into a hollow at the top of the grave. A carved human figure with a cloth cap and sword in hand keeps watch in front, and a picturesque group of palm trees forms a charming background to the scene. While staying here I once met with a large snake, upon whose life I was about to make an attempt when a timely warning informed me that the creature was con- sidered sacred, as a descendant of the enshrined python. TO DWABEN AND ABANKORO. 55 The quarters allotted to us were close by, and our opposite neighbour was an Odonko negress, distinguished like the rest of her race by several semicircular scars, reaching from the temples to the corners of the mouth. This woman had two children whom, to our frequent consternation, she used to summon home with piercing shrieks from the dangerous street. In another court lived a quiet wine dealer, who was almost the only male in the place, for with the exception of a few cripples and invalids, we had met hitherto with scarcely any men. The wife of the absent chief was the principal authority, and a stout cunning little woman who turned out to be the Fetish priestess, acted as her adviser. Our soldiers lodged at the end of the village, so as to be as far as possible out of Ageana’s way, seeing they disliked him most heartily. Before leaving us located here„ the royal messenger granted us permission to walk about and also to visit the stream daily, which we felt an unspeakable privilege, our sufferings for want of water to wash in having been indescribable. We were all tormented by a painful erup- tion of blisters, which gradually made its appearance all over us, attributable doubtless to the unusual diet, which our keepers persisted in peppering to such an extent, that we often preferred starving to touching it. The soldiers supplied us with a medicine which afforded some temporary relief, but it was months before we succeeded in overcoming this disease. Ageana continued to provide us with only one midday meal, which was irregularly sup- lied, and though the soldiers sent us occasional presents of fufu, it was almost impossible to persuade them that a morning or evening meal was at all necessary. We were at first permitted to go alone to the brook, but after a while it occurred to our guards that this was very unbecoming conduct on our part, and thenceforth one of the boys always accompanied us. The days passed 56 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. monotonously, and we almost despaired as to whether the king ever meant to send for us at all, for our guards appeared to have settled down permanently. One night after we had retired, we were surprised by a number of people suddenly crowding into the court, and staring intently at us by the light of a dim lamp. It transpired that they were the attendants of a prince who was passing through Abankoro, and who called upon us the next morning, richly dressed in silk and gold. Upon his return journey a few days later, we implored him to furnish us with a comb and scissors, which he promised to send ; though a long time elapsed before his messenger arrived with a little soap wrapped in leaves, an old comb, and a small pair of scissors. How thankful we felt when we could thus at length rid ourselves of the burden of hair, which we had had no opportunity of combing for ten months ! It is needless to add, that when Kwabena ordered us the next day to give up the scissors, we stoutly resisted his demand, and hid them away most carefully. WITH H. BONN AT IN ABANKORO. 57 CHAPTER XI. WITH M. BONNAT IN ABANKORO. On the 27th of August, a white man, accompanied by two soldiers, suddenly entered our yard. He was sun- burnt and in rags. He greeted us in French, and we were indeed pleased to hear his sympathising words, “ Madame, je vous plains !” We soon learnt that our companion was a merchant from Ho, where he had been taken prisoner by the Ashantees, after the missionaries Homberger and Muller had escaped. His captors beheaded his two mulatto assistants, who had been educated in Europe, then seized, stripped, and tied him to a tree, when he was kept all night, and witnessed the plundering and burning of the station, saw the Ashantees tear the hooks, chop up the harmonium, and throw away the coffee and flour. When the hell fell from the burning chapel, they lifted and brought it into the camp of Nantshi, Adu Bofo’s first officer, and thither M. Bonnat was also taken. The people of Ho made an attempt to recover their town, which so enraged the Ashantees that like angry children, they destroyed all the mango and palm groves in the neighbourhood. M. Bonnat at first expected to proceed direct to Ashantee, but his attendants decided to settle near us, and when they noticed Ageana’s treatment of us they began to imitate, and at last even excelled him, so that our poor friend would have been really starved had we not shared our pittance with him. 58 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIAN TEE. Our old leader had bought a little salt and some yams with the money we had entrusted to his care in Totorase, but very soon he declared that it was all gone, and in reply to our demands would rage furiously, exclaiming, “ salt, salt, do you suppose I shall go to Akem, and fetch it for you on my head.” The broken wooden bowl which held our food usually contained very thin pepper soup, in which a few balls of fufu, and very occasionally a tiny bit of meat were to be found. This was the day’s pro- vision for three people, and rather than beg some of the slaves’ food of our hard-hearted leader, we preferred to appeal to the pity of the people around us. Some of the good-natured women kindly gave us now and then some fruit, but of course these gifts were irregular, and there were days when we learnt what starvation meant. We were therefore much cheered, on the 7th of October, by the welcome news that the king had sent both us and M. Bonnat, a sheep and a sua of gold dust. Of the latter we should have heard nothing, for Ageana simply pocketed it, had it not been that the soldiers claimed their part of the booty, as they helped to provide us with food. There was a hot altercation, and the matter being referred to Coomassie, the old man was forced to give up half. M. B.’s portion was given to his keeper, who squandered it in a fortnight, and then told his prisoner that he had no money to buy a little salt. In comparing our adventures we soon learnt the history of our new companion. Born in the department of Ain, he had early in life longed to see the world, and therefore joined a Niger expedition in 1867. His ship was wrecked in the first storm at sea on the coast of France. Provided with another small vessel they reached the west coast of Africa. Here M. B. separated from his countrymen and began to trade, with the assistance of his mulatto servants, going further inland until he at length reached Ho. Here WITH M. BONN AT IN ABANKORO. 59 he purchased a quantity of cotton in exchange for cloth and powder, and intended to send his goods to the coast. The Ashantees were however approaching the place, and the missionaries urged him to join in their flight, which he refused to do, though he retired to the mission-house with his servants, so as to avoid being involved in the affairs of the town. On the 25th of June the sound of drums ap- proached, and red umbrellas were seen glancing in and out among the coffee trees ; while the closed doors and shutters of the house were soon pierced by Ashantee balls. M. B. was now dragged out of the window, and his two men were beaten, tied together by the neck, and executed. The next morning he was found by the general Nantshi secured to a mango tree where he had passed the night, and rebuking the soldiers, Nantshi ordered food and clothing to be given him. His own clothes having been stripped off the previous day, he was now clad in man’s and woman’s dress. Plenty of food was provided, and he was permitted to take what German books he liked from the library. He chose one called “ The way of the Cross,” the pictures in which were a com- fort to him, though he confessed to us that like the child in the story, he often wished to cut off a portion of the cross which he was himself called on to bear. During the sally of the Ho people four of his captors stood over him with long knives, undecided whether or not to kill him, while the bullets whistled about the hut where he was guarded. It was however finally resolved that he should be sent under strict guard to Coomassie. He believed that he owed the indulgence of never wearing irons on the journey to the report of our blameless conduct. M. B. brought with him a scrap of butter, which im- parted a great relish to our roasted pisangs, and he knew also how to extract vinegar from the half rotten bananas GO MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. which were sometimes given us. We soon became great friends, and he brightened our dreary life with all sorts of clever inventions. One day he joyfully led into our presence a young man who had addressed him in English in the street — this was a Fantee from Coomassie, whose master, a prince Ansa, lived there. Whilst we were talking Opoku entered, and sharply asked what the stranger was doing here, whilst Ageana gave orders to have him placed in irons. Opoku now hurried off with a soldier to Coomassie, but returned rather crestfallen the next day, and the old man who seemed to think he had done a very fine thing, was ordered at once to set his prisoner free. On the 21st of October, brother K. met another man who spoke English, and Avho had come from Cape Coast, and had brought letters and some champagne for the king. From this, the first news which had reached us from that quarter, we concluded that some negotiations in which we might also be interested were in process between the king and the European officials. This idea received confirmation when on the next day a greeting reached us from his majesty, accompanied by the present of an ox. I should however add, that this ox had refused to approach any nearer than the next village, and was thus condemned to be slain there. It also appeared that this obstinate animal had not possessed several of the organs with which oxen are usually endowed, for the fore-quarters which reached us in a basket next morning, were painfully shorn of their natural proportions. Ageana appropriated one leg, gave another to M. B., and a third to us, while the fourth he put aside, remarking that he would buy salt with that, the rest was distributed between the wife of the chief, the Fetish priestess, and many other “friends ” whose multi- plicity we had never guessed before. Our landlady WITH M. BONN AT IN AB ANNO BO. 61 claimed the head as her share, hut finally ceded the tongue to us. As Ageana and the soldiers could not eat beef, they only wanted to obtain favour by giving it away. Every Ashantee avoids eating some particular kind of food in honour of his Fetish, thus one touches no beef, another avoids snails, and a third cannot taste fish, &c. Many drink no palm wine on Tuesdays, others refrain on Fridays, all being regulated according to the taste or rule of their respective idols. The king for instance denies himself beef, and takes no palm wine on Tuesdays ; and our old man being unable to enjoy our store, cooked it most unwillingly, and managed to spoil a good deal of it. However, in his reports to the governor, the king boasted of the splendid liberality with which he was treating us. He also appeared to have heard of our obstinate eruption, and so far pitied us as to forbid our being employed in menial work. One November night we were aroused from our sleep by tremendous knocking, and the entrance of some mys- terious looking men from Coomassie. They carried lighted torches, and whispered among themselves so as to excite our suspicions of a cruel death, but we soon noticed that Ageana’s wife was weeping, and felt sure her tears would not fall for us, so we dismissed our fears, and found in the morning that it was the death of the district chief, which had thus been announced, and six days later his funeral festival was celebrated. Two slaves were brought from Coomassie, with ropes round their necks, and with a knife stuck through the cheek of each to prevent noise and cursing. Eight other unfor- tunates were killed at the same time. This incident will give some idea of the sad way in which our life was varied. 62 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. The people around us in Abankoro would not, or per- haps could not, give us any idea of the fate intended for us. The few words we sometimes caught of what they said, only misled us, and they would answer no questions. Our food was so insufficient, that we were glad to cook wild cabbage, and eat it without salt. We could some- times pluck a little fruit in addition. It was now December, in the middle of which month a wind called the Harmattan began to blow. Had we been at home we should have welcomed the agreeable temperature thus produced, but with only a thin cotton sheet as a covering, we suffered so severely from cold, that we were repeatedly attacked with high fever. We had complained to the king of the lamentable state of our clothes, and that our boots were just a few tatters of leather. Oh, the sadness which filled our hearts, as in this piteous plight, we saw the glorious festival of Christ- mas approaching ! The natives, who keep an annual celebration at this time, had already held it ; and during their wild festivities, a death occurred. A coffin was brought through our village, followed by the victims led in chains, who were to be sacrificed in honour of the de- parted. With feelings of deep grief, we sat under the shade of the trees, thinking of the blessed time our friends at home, and our brethren at the mission station, were en- joying. Had we in those dreary days only possessed a copy of God’s Word, how we should have hailed it as an ever present friend. As it was, we solaced ourselves by re- peating verses from the Psalms and the Prophets, and yet we often felt so poor — so lonely ! But after all, we too were to have our Christmas gift. On the evening of December the 24th, a procession from a neighbouring village approached, bringing us a large supply of yams, bananas, bread, etc., a most welcome and grateful surprise. Nor were we forgotten at the New WITH M. BONN AT IN ABANKORO. 63 Year, for on January the 6th, 1870, a soldier, accompanied by a royal messenger, returned from Coomassie, with a few articles of clothing from Sokoree — a shirt and trousers for K., with a boot and slipper, and much the same for my wife. She also received two needles and some thread, so that she could now appear dressed as a woman ; and Ageana advised her to hold her dress up higher. She became the object of universal admiration, and the im- proved appearance of our entire party in our new costumes gave rise to the boastful exclamation among our com- panions, “ The king gave it them ! ” * Our stay at this place came to an unexpected termina- tion in this way. Salt is rare and expensive in Ashantee, a handful costing four pence, and it is not generally supplied to slaves. We had found it necessary to enter on numerous altercations with Ageana, who wished to force us to do without it, which we persistently refused at the risk of being starved, and begged to refer the matter to the king. Two messengers were thus dispatched to court, who after a month re-appeared, bringing not only a load of salt and a fine ox, but also bearing a message that the king ordered our removal to another village. Full of apprehension and wonder we prepared for the change, which was most unwelcome to our guards and the villagers. The ambassadors however enforced instant obedience, and we hastened to depart, Ageana complying with the royal command with evident reluctance, in which we could not share. * It may be a matter of surprise that we were enabled to keep count of time. This is explained by the fact, that the Ashantees reckon with weeks of the same duration as ours. We always noted the first Sunday in each month, together with other events of importance, by scratching memoranda with scissors upon an empty milk can, which was our drinking vessel, aud the only utensil in our possession. 64 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASEANTEE. CHAPTER XII. IN ASOTSCHE. On the 15th of February we once more recognised in our forest home the well known sound of “Forward.” Our sullen old leader was alive again, and we prepared for a march, longer or shorter as the case might be. After an hour we reached an irregularly-built village of some size, where we were introduced to the wife of the chief and some aged elders, one of whom showed us into several good houses belonging to himself. An ox was soon slain and distributed with some salt, which act of generosity was deeply felt and acknowledged. Our position was here much improved. Not only did the villagers try to outvie each other in kindness, but the son of the chief took a lively interest in “the white people,” and stood our friend when needful. Presents of fruit, eggs, rice, and onions were brought us from five different villages, and an excellent dish of fufu was daily supplied from the elders’ table. In Abankoro there were only women, and our old leader could abuse us to his heart’s content ; here there were plenty of kindly-disposed men. Our soldiers who had feasted luxuriously in their former quarters be- sought us to return, but we assured them we were perfectly contented as we were. One of our privileges we greatly valued — we were allowed to live separate from our escort, and were permitted to distribute for ourselves the presents we received. Our hearts were also made glad by the frank way in which these villagers assured ua IN ASOTSCHE. 65 that we should he taken to Coomassie when Adu Bofo returned ; though if we asked when the army was ex- pected they invariably replied, “ In about two months.” It was here that the first opportunity was offered us of showing kindness, by befriending a little orphan boy about five years old, whom we observed creeping about unnoticed and reduced to a skeleton. He could not speak, and was regarded as an idiot ; but when he saw my wife bringing him food, he would cry for joy. Our kindness to this little sufferer astonished the people. “ They are God’s children,” was the exclamation, which opened the way for me to tell them of His love — not quite in vain, for one woman actually went so far as to wash the poor little dirty fello w more than once — an act of singular compassion in an Ashantee. At length death put an end to the sufferings of this touching type of vast numbers of neglected little ones, who thus perish in this dark land ! In due time we were not only allowed to bathe twice daily, but to walk about freely. On one of our excur- sions we noticed a small piece of paper not larger than our hand. The sight filled us with delight ; it seemed more precious than gold. It had come from Europe — it had been manufactured by white hands ; and, oh ! could we not employ ours, thought we ? The idea gave us fresh spirit, we cut palm branches in the wood and wove them together, and in due time our handicraft had made such progress, that we had mats of our own manufacture to sleep on. But spite of these little encouragements our depression was often great. Brother K. grew fearfully thin, so that our soldiers procured medicine and better food for him — but his appetite was gone. They went to tell the king, and returned with a promise, never ful- filled, of eggs and chickens to tempt the sick man. One day as we sat weaving our mats, an ambassador from the court appeared, with three sedan chairs, and F 66 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASII AN TEE. orders that we were to proceed immediately to Coomassie, to the great astonishment of our leaders, one of whom called out “ The king loves you much.” Old Ageana was thunderstruck that the chairs should be sent for his slaves, and tremblingly faltered out — ■“ The king wishes it, you must go to him.” To us, who had resigned ourselves to the agonizing thought of being destined to adorn the triumphal entry of the returning conqueror, this was indeed a wondrous surprise. It was in vain we tried to imagine what had caused the change, and deeply touched, we could only render thanksgiving and praise to our gracious God. Early in the morning of April the 22nd, we put our few things together, took leave of the friendly villagers, and mounted our sedan chairs. M. B., for whom none had been sent, took his place on a bearer’s shoulders, a mode of travelling common to chiefs, and even kings in this land ; but he found it so tiring as to prefer using his own feet the best part of the way. When however we passed a village, he had to mount, that it might be seen how the king; honoured his white men. We dined and rested in our old quarters at Abankoro; and now times had changed with us, we were greatly admired as elevated people. Our afternoon ride was along a beautiful road, and towards evening we were near Coomassie, but were carried aside to a little village, in the centre of which, under a large shady tree, a group of mahomedans were sitting, in their picturesque fashion. Descending, we entered a house, where we were evidently expected, and were informed by the owner, that the king had ordered dwellings to be given us. We were then conducted by a side path through bushes, to a little dealing on the borders of the forest, where we found two miserable fresh grass huts, as our future quarters, and yet we were only half-an-hour’s distance from Coomassie. BEFORE THE KING. 67 CHAPTER XIII. BEFORE THE KING. A VIOLENT thunderstorm during the night, depriving us of sleep, and obliging us to sit close together in the centre of our lonely hut, greatly chilled the sanguine hope of the past day. But in the early morning the arrival of a sheep and yams from the king shewed us he felt some interest in us, and as we had fasted long, this was indeed a welcome gift. Two bottles of sweet liquor came later on in the day. Our next incident was a visit to an adjoining village (Duru by name), where a number of chiefs, richly attired and covered with ornaments, waited to receive us. We made our obeisance to this semi-circle of dignitaries, and then sat on chairs provided for us. The whole com- pany at once rose to return our salutations, on which our people humbly remarked, “ This is the nobility of Coo- niassie.” This introductory ceremony completed, the grandees went into a house, and commanded us to follow. During their long conference, we stood waiting till they permitted us to be seated. We were then addressed by one of them in the following words : — “ Adu Bofo has sent you to the king. He says you are good men — translate to us this letter.” He then produced from a cloth, in which it had been carefully wrapped, an open German letter addressed to us, endorsed on the outside, “ Shew this letter to no one, or it will cost the bearer his life.” It was from David Asante, a native mis- 68 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. sionary educated at Basle, and as we thought of the messenger we shuddered. The contents ran thus — “ Much beloved brethren, — We have taken all possible pains since your captivity to effect your deliverance. Twice have we sent messengers to the Asliantee camp offering money for your release, but in vain. I have been sent to Begoro, on the frontier of Akem, to try and come into communication with you, as up to the present time we have only heard of you by reports. I give the bearer a pencil, paper, and scissors, that you may write ; or if that is not possible, send some of your hair, as an as- surance that you are still alive.” Further on signs were mentioned, through which we were to make ourselves understood to the bearer without words ; but he had either been captured, or from fear delivered the letter to the king. We thought it best to keep simply to the truth, and translated the letter ver- batim. After hearing it they rose, and giving us their hands, permitted us to return to our seclusion in the wood. But who can describe the feelings of our hearts upon hearing from those so dear to us after a silence of ten months. We now understood why we had been brought so near the capital, and we perceived that the mention of ransom had made a deep impression ; for, as the courtiers remarked, “ the king loves money.” After an interval of two days, we were summoned to the village to receive a present of food from the queen mother, which was followed by another ox from the king. In acknowledging these gifts, I sent them word that our supply of salt was exhausted, and we immediately re- ceived another load, so that we were now, by comparison, living in comfort. We afterwards heard the reason of this unusual liberality. It seems Adu Bofo was just then in a very embarrassing position, and it was thought we BEFORE THE KING. 69 might favourably influence the British Government. On the 3rd of May, an assembly of chiefs was convened, and we were desired to answer David’s letter with the pen and paper he had sent, but were told that our letter must take the form of an address, now going off, to the “ King of Europe.” After much perplexity, we ascertained that the Dutch governor of Elmina, was the person to be thus honoured. The sense of our epistle ran thus : — “ According to the laws of the Ashantee country, the king has no power to set prisoners at liberty till the general who captured them returns.” It was furthermore mentioned, that “ news had reached Coomassie of the general’s way being stopped by a force that had been sent from Akra, Krobo, Akem, and Akwapem, to hinder his retreat. The king had despatched reinforcements to his aid, from several different districts, and it was now demanded of the Dutch governor, that he should request the English commandant to allow the general to retire without fear of hostile attack; otherwise, our release would be refused.” We were commanded to send with the letter, a lock of our hair, however unnecessary it might seem to us. As it was intended that our friends should read this letter, we asked leave to give them some personal tidings, and were told we might communicate to them the loss we had suffered in the removal of our dear child. The next episode in our experience was a message to prepare us for a speedy introduction to the great king, but in the evening of the same day, we were informed that a pair of gold sandals having been stolen from the palace, the feelings of his majesty were too much excited to permit him to give us audience. A few days later, however, a chamberlain arrived at our abode prepared to accompany us to the presence of this mighty potentate. My wife being very poorly was allowed to mount the 70 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANT EE. chamberlain's chair, while we walked by her side. The distance was in itself very short, but they delight to conduct strangers by circuitous routes. Men bearing swords hurried up and down the broad avenues of palm trees, with an air of great importance, while drums were beaten, and horns blown. The melee was indescribable ; mahomedans in their long robes were strutting about, minutely inspecting us as we passed onward to the beautiful square in front of the king’s villa (called Aman- cliia). Here in the middle of a brilliant circle, shaded by noble palms, sat his majesty of Ashantee, fanned by pages, and surrounded by interpreters and chiefs. A crowd of about three thousand people were seen assembled at a distance. Each chief was shaded by a bright coloured umbrella, some twelve feet in diameter, the points of which were ornamented with carved and gilded elephants, pelicans, apes, and human heads ; both the king and the chiefs had numerous attendants. The scene was really imposing and very picturesque, and from time to time was animated by sounds of wild music. We were presented while waiting, with two jars of palm wine, and three bottles of gin, after which two fresh sword-bearers appeared on the scene. One of these in full uniform was a wonderful figure. He carried the royal sword, in a sheath made of leopard’s skins, while hung around him were the rest of his majesty’s arms— his cartridge-box, knife, personal orna- ments for his neck, arms, and feet, and his cap, with a beautiful, fan-shaped tuft of eagle’s feathers, each article glittering with gold. This official was to conduct us into the immediate presence of his sovereign, so we formed a pi’ocession. First walked a few of our people, then Mr. K. and M. Bonnat, my wife and I followed, and a few soldiers brought up the rear. We stepped along the semi- BEFORE THE KING. 71 circle, bowing as we went to the king in the centre, and removing our hats (even my wife’s). These salutations were responded to hy a friendly nod. Our march finished, we sat and received in our turn the greetings of this high and mighty assembly. All rose, the horns blew, the jubilant cry resounded louder than the drum, as the grandees approached us with measured steps. The inferiors preceded, then the great men shaded hy their umbrellas, and surrounded hy their pages, saluted us as they passed hy, each raising the hand. In front of the principal chiefs marched hoys, adorned with elephant’s or horse’s tails, and carrying drums made of the trunks of trees, and horns adorned hy human jaws. A few of them had elephant’s tusks hollowed out, and emitting a sound surpassing all others in strength and clearness, each musician trying to honour us by producing their loudest and shrillest tones, as they passed us. The chiefs were arrayed in silk, or the bril- liantly embroidered cloth of the country ; every individual wore his handsomest jewels, especially his massive gold plate on his breast, his carved seat being carried on the head of an attendant, who was followed hy soldiers hearing his arms. After a number of such personages had passed, the great monarch himself approached. He was heralded by some eighty individuals, each wearing a cap of monkey’s skin, adorned by a golden plate, and each holding his seat in his hand. Then came the dwarfs and buffoons in red flannel shirts, with the officials of the harem ; there were also sixty boys, every one of whom wore a charm sewn up in leopard’s skin, with written scraps from the koran, which were highly valued ; this train was followed by five tastefully carved royal chairs, hung round with gold and silver bells, and richly ornamented with jewels, but all black, being stained with the blood of human sacrifices. 72 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. Next, under an enormous silk sunshade, appeared the actual throne chair, encased with gold, and with long golden pipes carried behind it, as well as various wonder- ful vessels and articles of vertu. A peculiar music was heard rising above tbe sound of the horns and the beating of the drums. This was produced by some thirty wild- looking boys, each of whom swung, as he marched, a calabash half-filled with stones. This din was anything but agreeable to a European ear, though the performers kept marvellously good time. Still larger umbrellas and fans now approached, pre- ceded by a corps of a hundred executioners dancing, whose ages varied from boys of only ten years to grey-headed old men ; all wore leopard skin caps, and had two knives slung from their necks. The dismal death drum, whose three beats were heard from time to time, closed the procession. Now the music became wilder and louder, the ivory horns sounded shriller, the screaming and howling sur- passed all description. Led by an attendant under a magnificent sunshade of black velvet, edged with gold, and kept in constant motion, the royal potentate appeared. Boys with sabres, fans, and elephants’ tails danced around him like imps of darkness, screaming with all the power of their lungs, “ He is coming, he is coming. His majesty the lord of all the earth approaches!” The boys then retired that the king might be able to look well at us, and enjoy the intensity of his happiness. Golden sandals adorned his feet ; a richly ornamented turban was on his head ; his dress was of yellow silk-damask ; his hands and feet glittered with gold bracelets and bangles. Half a dozen pages held him by the arms, back, and legs, like a little child, crying continually, “ Look before thee, O lion ! take care, the ground is not even here.” Kari-Kari is a man who really impresses you, still BEFORE TEE KING. 73 young and of middle stature, but well built — his face, though somewhat marked with small-pox, bears the stamp of a powerful, yet beneficent king, and his whole appear- ance gives the impression of a soul capable of great deeds. There was no look of cruelty, and I no longer felt anxious about my wife. He remained standing before us for a few moments, in some degree of astonishment, for I sup- pose we were the first white people he had ever seen ; in our patched and torn garments, which a beggar in our country would have disdained, and with our toes peeping through our shoes, we encountered the gaze of this mighty monarch, who at length waved his hand kindly to us, and passed on, his long procession of attendants following. At this juncture, we were told to stand up and thank the “ nena,” or queen-mother, the most influential person at court, for presents she had lately sent us ; she was pro- tected from the sun by large fans, embroidered with coloured silk held round her by court ladies, and wore a gorgeous dress, with a silk scarf thrown over her shoulders. She was a stout energetic old lady, and re- turned our greeting with a good-natured smile. The procession, after lasting an hour and a half, ended with a number of officers and others; and we departed more light-hearted than we had arrived. The excitement had done my wife good, her indisposition had disappeared, and we all looked with new hope to the future. We tasted the palm wine, but found it so strong that we divided it amongst our people, and the “ friends ” who crowded around us. On May 25th, we received from the king a couple of sheep, and an old pair of Dutch military shoes, accom- panied by a pair of boots for Mrs. R., of English make, and the finest leather. They had been presented by the Wesleyan missionary Freemen in 1842, to the reig ning sovereign, and inscribed on the soles in gilt letters were 74 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. the following words : — “ To his Royal Highness, Quakoo Dooah, King of Ashantee, West Africa.” They had never been worn, and though time and insects had made their acquaintance, they were still in serviceable condition. Thus had a covering for my wife’s feet been prepared for her thirty years before, and this circumstance gave us a fresh assurance that our God would still provide for her. I will now describe the king’s return visit: — -We were one afternoon summoned to the chief of Duru, and on entering the courtyard, after politely saluting him, we observed a man of sallow complexion, in a shabby European dress. He rose, offered his hand, and said to us in English, “ That we had no doubt often heard of him, that he was sorry to find us in such a posi- tion, that he was himself detained at Ooomassie, but daily hoping to be allowed to return to the Coast.” He added, “ that he and the brethren in Coomassie had for a long time mentioned us in their prayers.” This was not all said consecutively, but in the course of conversation ; and while we were wondering whether he was an English envoy or an agent of the slave trade, he told us that we were in the presence of the king. The latter had observed us from the ante-room of the chief, and was so amused that he laughed aloud. Chairs were then brought us, and the king asked us how we were, and in what manner we had been taken prisoners. He looked serious when we told him we had been put in irons, and seemed not to know that we had been plundered. A word escaped him which sounded like “ they shall repent of it ; ” before we took leave we asked him if he could let us have a Bible through “ the prince,” as we had now been without the Word of God for almost a year. Great was our joy when by permission of the sovereign “ the prince ” promised to send us a copy of this precious volume. BEFORE THE KING. 75 The king did not speak much, hut remarked that we were not quite white, which was true enough. We ex- plained this as the effect of exposure to the sun, and opened our dress that he might see the white skin be- neath. After he had left, we naturally thought much of “ the brother,” or “ the prince,” who had spoken English to us, and wondered who he was. Judging by his colour, we thought he might be an ambassador from the Dutch governor of Elmina ; anyway, that would be proved if he really sent us an English Bible. To our great joy, after three days, the much longed for treasure was placed in our hands — a New Testament with the Psalms, accompanied by a few old numbers of Wesleyan missionary notices. The bearer was a young Christian from Cape Coast, and who can imagine the de- light with which we grasped the coveted volume, or how we thanked God for that, which we now knew so well how to prize, yea far better than before we had been so long without it.* * In an old treaty of peace between the British government and the king of Ashantee, it was stipulated that the heir to the throne should be educated in England, but as the heir then living was too old to learn, two of the king’s nephews, Ansa and Kwantabisa, came in 1836 to England in his place, Ansa being then twelve years old. These princes were well educated and treated with the honour due to their rank. In 1841, they returned to Africa with a pension, granted to them by Queen Victoria, of £100 a year each. Kwantabisa died at Cape Coast, but prince Ansa received his allowance till within three years. Eor some time he had been engaged in the Wesleyan mission, and was finally ordained as a missionary. In 1867, he was sent by the colonial govern- ment to Coomassie, upon the news of Kwakoo Dooah’s death, and he had there been detained till now. This was the beginning of our acquaintance with the converted Ashantee prince, John Owusu Ansa, a man to whom we owe the deepest gratitude, and w’ho seemed to have been expressly sent to Coomassie, to prove a messenger of grace for us during our long trial. 76 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. CHAPTER XI Y. EBENEZER. In the joy of our hearts, and in deep thankfulness for His mercy and grace in looking on our afflictions, we gave to our nest in the wood the name which signifies, “The Lord has helped us.” Drawbacks and disagreeables were not wanting, but our position was now endurable; we were well supplied with food by the king, though, through the many who had to share it, our own was still but a meagre portion. Our attendants had become civil and obliging, and the visits of the grandees impressed them with an idea of our importance. We will here describe one of these visits, which occurred on the 20th of May. Its hero was no less a person than Bosom muru, a chamberlain, who on his entrance desired our people to retire, and produced my confiscated watch, with a piece of embroidered cloth, seeming to think the two had some connection ; perhaps on account of the price-ticket attached to the cloth. His object was just to get an explanation of the watch, not as one might have hoped, to return the article to myself. With the usual vicissitudes attendant on a condition like ours, in the hands of a barbarous sovereign, we shortly after this suffered a sudden diminution in our supplies, our soldiers declaring that the purse was empty. This being reported to his majesty, twenty-seven dollars were forwarded in gold dust, and soon after he paid us another visit, the object of which appeared to be simply a friendly EBENEZER. 77 call on his white men. He took his place on this occasion in the centre of the village, on a bench formed of palm branches, under a roof of leaves, with about sixty people sitting before him. Forgetful of courtly etiquette, for “necessity has no law,” I took this opportunity of laying aside my coat, and, with an exclamation, “ Oh king ! I pray thee look here,” I showed him my uncovered back, and the remains of my tattered shirt. The Ashantee custom of giving presents liberally at the outset to gain a good name, had caused reports to reach us from the coast, that we had been overladen with gifts. We had certainly received another ox, but the present was accompanied by a swarm of bees, in the shape of a motley crowd, furnished with knives and sacks, to cut and carry away the spoil, so that we had difficulty in securing a moderate portion for our own share, and could hardly spare enough to dry some slices, and make a few sausages well seasoned with pepper for future use. Later on, a year passed without any gift whatever. I have mentioned two huts erected for our use. One of those was occupied by our keeper Ageana, the other by ourselves. M. Bonnat at first slept in the village, but spent his days with us. In due time Ageana built a third hut, and allowed M. B. the use of the one he forsook, which was then shared with Opoko. The latter worthy was afflicted with a contagious eruption, so M. Bonnat contrived a wall of rushes, and in his own divi- sion was kept our dried meat and sausages. It was a dainty apartment for a store-room, and alas! it was open to thieves, who carried away so much as to alarm us. Upon this, M. Bonnat’s diplomatic talents came to our aid. He actually succeeded, though not without some painful resistance, in inducing Opoko to find other quar- ters, and make room for Mr. K. in his place. Having 78 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASEANTEE. proceeded thus far in separating ourselves from our black attendants, we set to work to construct bedsteads with sticks and palm branches, forming string from banana fibre. With a little wooden hook, which I had cut as an implement, my wife made a pocket, a hat for herself, and a cap for me, while I succeeded in manufacturing a work- table for her, and a dining table for general use, from plaited rushes. The ingenuity of M. Bonnat greatly aided us in our various manufactures, which gave a deep interest to our secluded life. As we had now the privilege of a daily ablution in a neighbouring stream, our health quickly improved, but our clothing alas ! as rapidly decayed, and indeed was in the last stage of existence, when a quantity of common calico arrived, out of which M. Bonnat and my wife managed to construct a woman’s dress, and a suitable garment for the other three of us. On July 6th, the king again called, his retinue accom- panying him, some of them carrying a brass dish, on which was his fetish, as a protection from evil spirits. He took his seat under the palm tree, asked a few ques- tions, and spoke with the people about us and our dress. Prince Ansa was with him, who brought us a letter from David Asante, and petitions from Mr. Ramseyer’s family, and from the senior missionary, Wiedmann. We read and translated these papers, which were all open — though this had already been done by prince Ansa, who was desired to write in reply, that we should be set at liberty as soon as Adu Bofo returned. At our request we were each of us allowed to enclose a small pencilled note in the king’s letter. Although the question of our liberty was still in abey- ance, we could perceive that the king’s feelings were friendly, though we continued to be treated as under suspi- cion. One of the pencils sent by David was left with us, At Ebenezer, near Coomasik. EBENEZER. 79 but not a scrap of paper, and private conversation with the prince was impossible. We however managed to note the most important facts on the fly-leaf of our Testament. Two days later we were again instructed to write to our brethren, David and others, telling them they might send to the king umbrellas, salt, liquors, silk materials, &c. This we gladly agreed to do, only reminding his majesty that Mr. Wiedmann was not a merchant, but would procure the goods if money were sent, and this we promised in our letter should be done. We added a word of petition for necessary clothing for ourselves. On July 12th we were again before the king, as he sat under the palm-trees, when the cry of the eunuch sounded in the distance, announcing the approach of the royal wives. The men disappeared in an instant, and we stepped aside, knowing the penalty incurred by any man who even by accident sees one of these ladies ;* but we were soon recalled, and beheld fourteen women, surrounded by little boys, sitting on the right hand of the king. Some of them were very beautiful, others ugly enough. They were not grandly dressed, and their only ornaments were rows of coral beads. They stared at us with unfeigned curiosity, while the attendant cried out constantly, “ Ho ! Ho !” Their heads, like those of other Ashantee women, were closely shaven, with the exception of a tuft of hair on the left side and a few small circles round it. Our usual petition for salt was preferred again on this oc- casion, and on the 24th of July we received a beautiful pre- sent of fruit, vegetables, flour, sugar, &c.,&c., from the ladies. On the 25th a load of salt arrived, with an intimation that, * On one occasion a Wesleyan missionary met the wives of the king accidentally on his morning ride. He was at once dragged from his horse by the ennuch and shamefully treated. He complained to Quakoo Dooah, who ordered the execution of the eunuch, as the missionary was a white man and a stranger; but on the missionary’s intercession he was handed over to corporal punishment instead. 80 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. as it was so costly, it must be sparingly used. Upon this we mentioned that the half was always claimed by our guards ; thus provoking the wrath of Ageana to such a fearful degree that I took up a thin piece of wood and wi'ote a few words with my pencil to Bosommuru, begging him to come and say a word to the old man, who, on seeing us hand the writing to the bearer of the salt, thought it best to cease his abuse. The king himself came over in a few days, and was not a little surprised, like the South Sea Islanders, that a piece of wood could speak. He ordered Ageana to be called, who at first denied the offence, but at length pleaded guilty, and received a severe rebuke, with orders that for the future he and his people should treat us well. He was glad to get off so easily, and his outward conduct improved, though he gave no evidence of real kindness of feeling. I then told the king of the wretched condition of our huts, causing us to be drenched by every shower. A court official was sent to inspect them, and the village chief was ordered to repair them, but they were not made water-tight. On the 14th, Bosommuru, through whom we had com- munication with the court, brought us a letter from the missionaries, Schrenk and Eisensclimidt, with a chest containing some personal necessaries, and a most welcome supply of paper. A present for the king, which had been enclosed, never reached us ; a piece of stuff too, which had been sent for ourselves, so pleased him that he sent to enquire the price, and we thought it best to give it, whereupon we received a sheep in return, and a sua of gold dust, which, alas ! were taken possession of by our people. There was one remark in the letter of our breth- ren which distressed us, namely, that they would not be able to continue this connection with us from Be- goro. We concluded they were acting thus, under the EBENEZEE. 81 direction of the British governor. Still, as a decided im- provement had taken place in our position, we tried to hope that all would be well when Adu Bofo returned, and we were now at liberty to go to the village when- ever we pleased. On one of these visits, Mr. K., ac- companied by our soldiers, observed in a yard more than a hundred prisoners from Krepe, men, women, and children, all living skeletons, and infants on their mothers’ backs, starving for want of their natural nourish- ment. In the afternoon we were summoned to the presence of the king, who had come to visit these prisoners. Array- ing ourselves in court attire, viz., the under drawers which Mr. Schrenk had sent us, we hastened to present our- selves, and were pleasantly received by his majesty on his usual seat beneath the palms. The prisoners were assembled in groups on the open space, surrounded by baskets of maize, corn, native bread and yams, which they devoured with their eyes, as loaf by loaf it was distributed. As we gazed on this mass of misery, my wife noticed a pool’, weak child, who was commanded in angry tones to stand straight. The little fellow tried to obey, and pain- fully drew himself up, showing the shrunken frame in which every bone was visible. This reminded her so vividly of our own lost darling that she burst into tears. The king inquired the reason, and on hearing it, re- marked, “ this does not concern you ; God will give you another child yet perceiving the sight distressed us, he permitted us to leave, and in the evening sent us some palm wine to restore our spirits. With what thankful hearts did we compare his considerate treatment of us with the misery of these poor creatures now about to be separated from each other. We could only hope they would find merciful masters. G 32 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANWE. The king mentioned this occurrence to prince Ansa, expressing his surprise at my wife’s emotion. “We black people,” replied the prince, “have hard hearts, and can behold misery unmoved ; it is not so with the whites ; such a spectacle wounds them deeply.” Soon after this, we one day carried our fufu to the poor imprisoned children, but found to our disappointment the king already in the village, engaged in separating the prison- ers. Our soldiers sprang forward to drive us back ; we hid behind a hedge, and entreated them to take the food themselves to the children, whereupon the dish was shown to the king, who uttered an exclamation of sur- prise, but desired that our wishes should be fulfilled, and soon after sent us a sheep with his compliments. After this prisoners continued to arrive, just living skele- tons. The sight of one poor boy touched us deeply ; the thin neck was unable to support the head, which drooped almost to the knees. I spoke to him repeatedly, and offered him food ; at length he gave me a look I shall never forget ; just said, “ I have eaten,” and the head hung down helpless as before ; all hope seemed gone 1 Another of apparently higher rank coughed as if in the last gasp of existence ; he was as emaciated as the others, but had been allowed to retain some beads and a brass ring; we gave him some snail soup, and promised to bring him a daily supply of fufu. Another object of our compassion was a young child so weak from want of food as to be unable to stand. It was touching to see how the little thing jumped on its mother’s knee as my wife approached with fufu and ground nut soup. Alas ! it was but little we could do to ameliorate the miseries of these wretched groups, but that little called forth their most grateful thanks. On the 26th of August we again received a sheep and a sua of gold dust, and for a few days our diet was improved, EBENEZEIl. 83 but we soon fell back into the old routine — snail soup and dried meat. On the 28th we were summoned to an audience, and anticipated special news, as we were to carry our chairs, which always denoted something important. On arriving at the leafy chamber where the king awaited us, we saw some boxes addressed to us. We naturally supposed they were from our brethren, but to our surprise the king handed us a letter from his excellency admini- strator Ussher, expressing the hope that, in virtue of his treaty with the king, he should soon welcome us at Cape Coast ; meanwhile he had sent us a few needful articles. On opening the boxes we were deeply affected at their contents, which consisted of stuffs, soap, metal plates, knives and forks, preserved meats, ham, cheese, tea, sugar, biscuits, and, above all, writing materials ; with a quantity of gold dust, in value £22, cpiite a fortune in our secluded life. Three umbrellas were also found ; one had dis- appeared on the road. There was besides a valuable present for the king, consisting of three boxes of cham- pagne ; we too had our share of wine, some of which we offered to his majesty. He took four bottles, which he drank in company with his chiefs, till the whole party became very merry. Our people were commanded to appear before him, and he swore, with uplifted hands, that whoever took anything from us would lose his head. This was said so solemnly that Ageana, though he tried to speak, became dumb ; and being roughly pushed aside, had quickly to retire. After the king's departure, Bosommuru begged for a second translation of the letter, though prince Ansa had already read it; we of course complied. This done he gave us another letter from Major Brownell, which in- formed us that he had conducted the embassy to the Ashantee king as far as the Prah, and would remain there until we came. How joyfully we embraced this 84 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH AN TEE. prospect of deliverance, feeling that He, to whom nothing is impossible, could easily bring it to pass.* Returning to our humble home, we gratefully thanked our heavenly Father for His interposition on our behalf; and in the gladness of our hearts, we prepared a present for the king, consisting of four metal plates, some sugar, soap and pomade. For prince Ansa we set aside a pair of shoes, which he greatly needed, some tea, sugar, writing materi- als, and other valuable things. After dispatching this busi- ness, we sat down to try the cheese ; oh how delicious it was, and how gladly did we cast aside our wooden plates ! Prince Ansa called on us as soon as permitted, to offer his thanks, telling us the shoes were more valuable to him than a crown of gold. He encouraged us to hope that a mission might soon be established in Coomassie, the king being now so favourably disposed towards Europeans. The schools which the Wesleyan missionaries had tried to form, failed for lack of children ; if the king favoured their establishment it would be different, and by helping the missionaries, he would gain the friendship of Queen Victoria. He had already received a very kind letter from the administrator, in which he had petitioned for our freedom ; and the present of a piece of green stuff, embroidered with gold, sent him by our brethren, had also delighted him. After about three quarters of an hour, his attendants intimated to the prince that his visit must end ; he im- mediately rose, and expressing the hope to be allowed soon to repeat it, wished us farewell, recommending us to cultivate the friendship of Bosommuru, who possessed great influence ; and we sent by him the present of a brush for the latter, which he had long desired. * Later on we heard that one of the messengers from Cape Coast had told the king that the governor accounted us tor great people, aud would pay aDy sum that might be demanded for our liberty. EBENEZER. 85 In the beginning of September we entered on a new phase of affairs in our domestic arrangements, and for the first time, after eighteen months, we drank tea and read by lamp light, instead of retiring to bed at dusk. It was also now our frequent privilege to minister to poor captive children, as they passed through our village with their parents. To one of these covered with scalds we offered food, but the little sufferer could not open her mouth to eat it. One morning, before we had completed our scanty toilet, we were desired to hasten to the presence of the king, who wished to see us, on his way to a yearly festival in honour of his father, as he called the Fetish. We managed to emerge in time to see the red umbrella enter the village, under which sat the king in his sedan chair, fully arrayed. The bearers were ordered to halt, while he saluted each of us separately, evidently desir- ing to make an impression. On his arms were gold and silver ornaments in various devices, from his green vel- vet cap hung broad lappets, to which were suspended gold and silver amulets ; his dress was of damask, and a rich golden-tinted silk covered the sedan chair. It was a marvellous, but most miscellaneous, display of the ostentation and gaudy show of an African procession : the crown jewels, in baskets, chests, and tin vessels, orna- ments of every variety, fans of peacocks’ feathers, coloured leather, staves straight and crooked, with gold and silver knobs, and even articles of furniture — with antelopes’ feet, elephants’, cows,’ and horses’ tails, contributed their share to the show. By the side of each bearer walked an official in plumed hat, while for music there was the continual beating of drums ornamented with human skulls, mingled with the shouts and screams of the multitude ; the lifers and drummers being clothed in Danish and Dutch uniforms. 86 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. The royal camp bedstead, covered with leather and orna- mented with glittering steel nails, appeared to be of British manufacture. Overseers marched by in fragments of European costume ; one had a scarlet coat, but no trousers; another wore a long dressing gown, reminding one of a German university professor ; one of the generals was in a brown velvet dress and sash, another had proudly donned a field marshal’s hat and white cockade, while to the lot of a third had fallen a woman’s under garment, in which he found it somewhat difficult to walk. A band of three musicians in Dutch costumes followed, whose cymbal, clarionet, and European drum added con- siderably to the inharmonius noise (perhaps because their instruments were out of tune), but the effect was startling : these brought up the rear of the procession, and although their music was discordant and barbarous in the extreme, it had a certain imposing effect even on a European ; while on the Africans it produced the wildest excitement, causing them to tremble. One of the slaves in a sort of frenzy knocked off the hat of brother K., whereupon he administered summary justice, though in the presence of the king, giving the man a smart box on the ear; thus impressing on them the fact that we no longer meant to be treated as children. This sharp practice had the desired effect, for he came afterwards humbly to beg pardon, and promised to call us in the evening when the procession returned, that we might see the first part which had preceded the king. Fifty sheep had been sent in advance for feasting and for sacrifice ; whether human beings were killed or not we never ascertained. At five o’clock our chairs were placed in the street ; but we had scarcely taken our seats, when a cry of the eunuchs, who are mostly dwarfs, warned us to escape ; my wife, however, remained, and received a friendly salutation from eight of the royal ladies, dressed in red EBENEZER. 87 native cloth, and richly adorned. They were accom- panied by numbers of children, the girls carrying yellow, red, and green damask cushions ; the boys, who were sons of executioners, and being trained to their father’s profession, wore caps of leopard skin, and carried gold handled knives. After this interlude we left our hiding place, and witnessed the remainder of the procession, which was less regular and imposing than that of the morning. Amongst the curious things which were borne past us were silver dishes, and the king’s dining-table, with feet beautifully carved; the chairs of chiefs ; and a kind of flag, with figures of the Fetish. The aristocracy were carried in sedan chairs, surrounded by musicians sounding their ivory horns, and recalling to our memory our first entrance to the camp. It was now dark, torches of palm branches were lighted, and for two hours the procession continued, every person of distinction being honoured by a renewed performance on the drums. The king arrived at last, looking sullen and tired as he lay in his sedan chair, giving one the impression that he felt compelled to endure these noisy exhibitions, to conciliate the people whose chiefs had placed him on the vacant throne. It is only by slow degrees that the strongest sovereign can act independently of them. Kari-Kari never appeared to us fond of ostentation, though he might have felt some pleasure in displaying his power to his white prisoners ; but he usually came to us in a simple style, and the better we knew him the more were we impressed with the idea that his natural dis- position was amiable and kind. On this occasion golden suns were carried behind him on high poles, and helmets of the same were conspicuous ; so that after the amount of precious metal displayed on this day, we no longer regarded the report of the riches of this dynasty to be exaggerated. 83 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANTE E. Wearied with sight-seeing, we retired thankfully to our little hut, after seeing the brother of the king and Bosom- muru carried by. What a relief to our feelings was the thought of the following dajr, which was the Christian Sabbath to us, though in a land of darkness ; and we purposed to com- memorate it specially by meeting together at the table of the Lord. The present of wine we had lately received enabled us to hold this strengthening feast, for which our souls yearned. One of our boxes, covered with a white cloth, served as a table, and when all was ready, we anxiously awaited the arrival of prince Ansa. It was not till late in the afternoon he could obtain the king’s per- mission to come, when he brought a native Christian called Joseph from Cape Coast. How delightful was it again to enjoy the privilege of a Christian service, to read together God’s word, and unite in prayer and praise with our voices and our hearts. After the service we conversed with the prince on the subject of our freedom, which he regarded as only a matter of time. He could sympathise with us from his own experience, having been for three years put off with fair promises. “ After the Fantees on the coast have been set at liberty, and after Adu Bofo appears, your turn will come,” said he, though the general himself has little influence, in spite of his being purse-bearer and keeper of the keys. We then discussed the fate of our property, of which we concluded the chiefs would retain a share, however much they might have grudged it to Adu Bofo. A month later the feast of yams was to be held, and he was expected forty days after. This number the Ashantees consider particularly lucky, and always try to connect with some important event. We now ventured to invite the prince to breakfast with us, and on Sept. 15th, a special messenger being de- EBENEZER. 89 spatched to accompany him, he arrived at 10 o’clock, hut to our great surprise the king came with him on a visit of inspection, escorted by eleven attendants, and carried on the shoulders of one of his servants. It was the first time he had seen our “Ebenezer,” and after saluting us kindly, he greatly admired our arrangements, particularly our table constructed of boards placed over boxes, and our hammock of banana fibre. After he had retired, our late breakfast was served, and we thoroughly enjoyed our good tea, eggs, and preserved carrots, a tin of which we had opened for the occasion. The prince conversed unreservedly, getting us to tell him our history, and relating to us his own sad experience from Sept. 17th, 1867, when he was first brought here, and since which he had been constantly promised his freedom, and as constantly disappointed. We comforted him with the suggestion that his detention might possibly have its bright side, for had he continued in office at Cape Coast, he would most likely have been involved in much trouble. Every Sunday he held a short service with his Fantee servants, in which Mr. Watts, a good Wesleyan catechist who had been detained here eight years as a hostage, took part ; and he invited us to the dilapidated mission-house, where some Ashantees were always present, to whom we might speak of Christ. The prince had himself, through the influence of the Dutch, become an object of suspicion to the king, and though now apparently restored to favour, had to be very cautious lest the people should accuse him of telling us too many secrets. He however believed he should be per- mitted to unite in our worship on Sundays, the king having told him that the name we had given to our place had greatly interested him. He advised us to propitiate the king’s interpreter, Nantshi, by sending him a present of some sugar. From this time prince Ansa came byinvita- 90 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIANTEE. tion to breakfast every Sunday and Thursday ; by degrees his visits became still more frequent, and his communica- tions more confidential. We had often doubted whether it were not desirable to send Bosommuru a joint every time we killed a sheep, and we now found that other important people expected similar presents, and that we had already incurred the reputation of being stingy ; but as the prince became better acquainted with our affairs, and learned that we had always given our people some of the money which had been sent by the king, and that we had sometimes only four snails or half a fish to make our soup, he was greatly astonished, and advised us to arrange differently, as it was not at all the king’s wish that we should fare so poorly. “ You must manage your own housekeeping,” said he, “ and never give away what the king sends you for your own use. There is often fresh meat in the market, buy for yourselves (I will send you scales and weights for the gold dust, &c.), and have your food cooked according to your orders, keeping all supplies in your own custody.” We feared the effect of such a sudden change, but the prince spoke to the people with so much tact, that they showed no open opposition, although not perhaps alto- gether pleased. We carried out his instructions immedi- ately, cooking yams in the morning and fufu in the evening, and our spoons and plates were washed by the attendants. The news which now came from the seat of war caused much joy both in town and country. It was reported that the daring rebel Domprd had been killed in battle, and that king Kwadjo Odee of Pekyi, and king Kumi of Anum had been beheaded. Kari-Kari was so delighted that he danced with joy, and all the people shared in the excitement, for it appeared that the war was at an end, and Adu Bofo’s return might be expected in two or EBENEZER. 91 three months. White garments, the sign of rejoicing, were universal ; and many painted themselves with white earth. Prince Ansa on the contrary seemed depressed. He was expecting to he allowed to return to the coast in October, and yet he could not get an audience of the king He had, as has already been noticed, come here four years previously with a commission from the English Government, but had not been allowed to write any letters in his official capacity for three years. He wished to purchase from us the coral beads which K. had concealed in his hat, but even this little transaction could not be completed without the king’s permission ; so truly is this a land of fear, where no man trusts his neighbour. The prince had also adopted a little child who would otherwise have been exposed in the bush, but it died notwithstanding his care. About this time Adu Kwaku left us in order to look after his wife in Purumasee, who was seriously ill after her confinement. He begged a sua of gold from us to propitiate the fetish who was killing his wife, but we told him we had nothing to do with fetish. She died, and we gave the customary presents to purchase mats, &c. ; we were glad to hear that the child was living, and would not be buried with its mother, acccording to the custom of the country. On October 2nd, we were surprised by a visit from a Dutch official, Mr. J. S. Mensa, who had lived in Coom- assie since the 4th of July. As he spoke Dutch, he under- stood a good deal of our German ; we also addressed him in English ; this excited the suspicion of the Ashantee chief who accompanied him, making him suppose we were English also. After a short time, Mr. M. left us, taking with him a letter which M. Bonnat entrusted to his charge. 92 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIAN TEE. The miserable state of our huts, which leaked at every shower, caused us to entreat the king to give us better ones ; and we hoped that he would allow us to remove to the town. Bosommuru however brought word that no change would be permitted until after Adu Bofo’s return, and he gave orders to the people of Amanghyia to build new huts for us ; we were also permitted now and then to write a letter, which was some consolation to us during this long delay. We one day complained to Bosommuru of Ageana’s rudeness to us; he constantly refused us the services of his boys, so we asked if the king would be kind enough to send us two lads, that we might not be dependent on our surly keeper. Bosommuru severely reprimanded the old man, telling him that he was unfit to have the charge of white men, and that for the future the soldiers were to obey our orders exclusively. This reproof made so deep an impression upon Ageana, that he actually begged us to pardon him, and not to deprive him of the honour of waiting upon us. So we tried him once more. On Sunday, October 23rd, the shouting and screaming in the village, mingled with the beating of drums, announced that the great yam festival had begun. It lasts a fortnight ; the first and fifth days the people fast, but only to whet their appetite for drink. The king dis- tributed brandy to all his attendants, and sent us a bottle, which we gave to our people. On the fifth day, a criminal is executed — “sent as a messenger to the late king in the lower world;” then his majesty eats fresh yams (“ ode,” as the best sort are called), and on this occa- sion, the people also are permitted to partake of them. The king’s mother passed through our village, laden with this vegetable, and at the suggestion of the servants we went forward to welcome her, and to thank her for her kind presents to us. Suddenly the sense of her own im- EBENEZER. 93 portance seemed to impress her, as mounting a high stone she commanded her attendants to form a semi-circle, and we were then called forward to kiss her extended hand. Before entering her sedan chair she promised to send us a further supply of “ ode.” On the fifth and eighth days of the festival the king gives wine to all his chiefs, for which purpose he expended £48 sterling. This was in addition to his own palm wine, so the street was orna- mented with hundreds of vessels, and the mirth knew no hounds. How different was our position ! Brother K. was suffering from liver complaint, had quite lost his appetite, and was dreadfully depressed. My dear wife too had fever, and her spirits were so low that she could with difficulty restrain her tears. We determined to petition the king to allow us to change our quarters and remove to the old mission-house in the city. We were desirous if possible to send in our request before the meeting of the grand assembly, which took place on November 3rd. when the high dignitaries of the kingdom, the princes of Mampong, Dwaben, &c., came together to talk over everything of importance which had occurred in their respective districts since the last feast of yams. Prince Ansa brought us intelligence of what was done that day. The Major’s letter respecting the exchange of prisoners was discussed, but it was decided that if the governor would not consent to exchange the black men without the white (although it was the latter he had especially demanded) they must all remain until the return of the troops. We were cruelly disappointed, and the prince who felt the deepest sympathy for us was exceedingly grieved. “ You do not know,” he said, “ how ashamed I am when I remember the great kindness shown to us in England, and contrast it with what you are suffering now. I can never forget Queen Victoria’s 94 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. kind parting words, as she gave me her hand and said, ‘ Go, and he a blessing to your country ; ’ every day shews anew what misery war brings upon a land, and how hopeless our prospects are under its influence.” The prince had lately seen a large number of prison- ers, amongst whom was a mother with a dead child on her back ; and this cruel war still goes on. Maize and corn were sent to the camp, and the leaders who had come home were sent back again. Meanwhile, Major Brownell was detained on the Prah, and complained bitterly of having to keep his seventy Ashantee prisoners there so long. Brother K. still continued very unwell, and we all felt much annoyed at Bosommuru’s behaviour; for the last five weeks he had promised to send us meat, salt, and clothing, but nothing had come. Brother K. adopted what appeared to be the only available means of making an impression, and refused to partake of food until the promised supplies arrived. Upon this, Bosommuru paid us a visit of enquiry, and we had to inform him that white men understood “ yes ” to mean “ yes,” but that we had here discovered that promises were worthless, our letters to the king being unanswered, and those to the Coast not forwarded, or we should certainly have received some attention. The chamberlain manifested displeasure, and half threatened to send us to another village, saying that here we saw too many people, by which he meant to express his annoyance at prince Ansa’s frequent visits. However, he ended with an attempt at apology, and begged brother K. to take some food. We were talking over the subject after his departure, when suddenly a large black serpent glided up the wall, which was only made of sugar cane fibre. Brother K. attacked the rep- tile, and struck it with a knife, but it managed to escape, EBENEZER. 95 and we all considered it advisable to decamp to other quarters for the night. We now lived upon roast bananas, and only enough salt was sent for my wife. The king at length finding that it was not good for us to fast (eating roast fruit is looked upon as fasting here), sent us a sheep and a load of salt. The following day, at the house of the chief Dikurow, we came to an understanding with his majesty. Prince Ansa’s tact helped us so much that the king no longer objected to our removal to Coomassie, and he com- missioned the prince to have the mission-house made ready for us, the only delay being the necessity of bringing the matter before the council. Adu Bofo would not object. The appearance of my wife, who was suffering from an abscess, seemed to touch the king. At the same time he confessed to prince Ansa that many people had sought to excite a prejudice against him, but that he was now con- vinced that the prince had always given him the best advice, and was his truest friend. We now prepared to bid adieu to our crowded little huts, in which we had settled ourselves as carefully as voyagers arrange their cabins on board a ship. Seven feet by six, and seven feet in height, contained all our possessions ; on either side of the door was a narrow bed- stead made of palm strips, while underneath them was our store-room, and above a frame for our “bag and baggage.” Hooks on the walls supported the fragments, which had once been clothes, while between the beds stood the chest from Begoro, which contained our most valuable things, our clothes and writing materials. Um- brellas, old shoes, and sandals were thrust in above us, under the fragile grass roof where rats, mice, spiders, and lizards found a refuge, and occasionally dropped down upon us. A hen house had been contrived outside, which 96 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. though often plundered, occasionally afforded us the luxury of an egg. And here I must not forget to add, that during our last fortnight, our dear prince Ansa rejoiced us with a most welcome present, consisting of a fine sheep, some yams, and two hens. We were soon after enabled to buy another fowl and two chickens, at a trifling price, and the care of this poultry was a wonderful pleasure to us. In the meanwhile, the prince had prepared for our use two rooms in the mission-house ; these were cleaned and whitened, and permission was obtained for our taking possession the next week. Thursday, which we suggested, being considered by the king an unlucky day, our removal was fixed for Monday, it being stipulated that we should go by moonlight, to avoid creating sensation in the town. We could scarcely believe in the truth of this pleasant change, which was the first of our desires that had been acceded to during our captivity, and we could hardly realise the happy fact. The prince, moreover, stirred our hearts by hints of various great changes now taking place on the Gold Coast. It appeared likely that England would shortly purchase Elmina from the Dutch, the latter retiring altogether froni Guinea ; the entire Coast thus coming under British rule, it would probably ensue, that a strict system of government would supersede the irregular order of things which had hitherto prevailed ; in any case, we rested in the thought that our God would order all things for the best. IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 97 CHAPTER XV. IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. Monday, December 5th, was, a day never to be forgotten in our Ashantee life ; after a sleepless night we rose and be- gan to pack; about ten o’clock came the prince’s boy to announce the indisposition of his master, who would be unable to join us till the evening ; he took one of our packages with him, which greatly excited our people, who did not like the change ; declared the elders did not wish us in the town, and in their anger, tried to persuade the king to withdraw his permission. Two of them started for Coomassie ; but Isaiah viii. 10, was now exemplified, “ Take counsel together, and it shall come to nought.” The prince, though unable to come himself, kindly sent us a number of Fan tees to help to carry our few things, and as we accompanied them to the gate to prevent further hindrance, our two soldiers were seen returning more quiet and subdued than we had ever known them before. They allowed the packages to pass without a frown, and at six o’clock the prince arrived. He told us he had been accused of disobeying orders, and bringing the white men into the town by day ; he indignantly denied the charge, upon which it was affirmed that the luggage was being carried across ; he was highly dis- pleased, and perceived his mistake in having provided us with bearers from his own people, so he at once told our soldiers they must do the rest of the work unaided. This explained the crest-fallen looks we had observed. 98 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASII AN TEE. When the moon had risen, the prince gave the signal to start, placing my wife in his sedan chair, and following with ourselves just behind her. We soon reached the stream which surrounds the town, and in fifteen minutes more, the old mission-house stood before us. We passed through some fine open streets, but the houses were dilapidated, and the roads stony and uneven, so that the place struck us as inferior to Dwaben. On entering the mission-house, Mr. Watts, the master, and Mr. Lindsay, the constable of Cape Coast, both in European dress, shook us warmly by the hand, and wished us God’s blessing. Caesar, and other Eantees who were sitting with them, we greeted after the fashion of the country, and we were then conducted into another building within the court-yard, where the prince’s rooms and our own were side by side. After our miserable grass huts, they seemed to us like a palace, but sweeter far was it to realise that we were with friends and brethren, and we knelt to unite in offering praise to Him who had wrought so wonder- fully for us ; for until it was actually accomplished, we had scarcely dared to hope this removal would pass so quietly. But all was not over yet ; before the prince had time to report progress to the king, Bosommuru entered, followed by several men with torches, bringing as we hoped, a congratulation from his majesty. But alas ! his message was of a different nature : it appeared the king was now convinced it was a mistake to introduce important people like ourselves into the town by night. His elders would disapprove of it, and we must therefore immediately return to the wood till, after counsel with the chiefs, he could give us a public reception. We were thunderstruck ; Mr. Watts, who had been longing for our arrival, placed in the strongest light the effect of such treatment on us, and the bad example it would be to the population. The IN COO MASSIF WITH PRINCE ANSA. 99 prince expressed extreme surprise, and I broke forth in determined remonstrance. “ The king,” said I, “ has declared we should get ill if we remained in the wood ; if he send us back it is like saying, should you be ill that does not matter. My poor wife has just found comfort again: if we return^ our position will be worse than before. Tell his Majesty that it is not because we will not, but because we cannot eat,* we are too deeply grieved ; our trouble is too great, yet our innocence is well known. The king must have pity on us and allow us to remain here,” While high words were going on between the bystanders, Bosommuru consented to take our message to the king, and he had no sooner left us than we once more fell on our knees, entreating the Lord, in whose power are the hearts of all men, to show Himself strong in our behalf in this our extremity ; yet we sought grace to say, “ His will be done.” Our minds were calmed ; we took a little refreshment, and patiently waited the effect of our appeal. In due time Bosommuru returned ; “ His Majesty,” said he, “ permits you to remain, but will be unable to give you a public reception for the present. You are not there- fore to go beyond the yard, and the prince must have all the doors locked, that no one may come in.” We were filled with joy ; a new life opened before us ; and a third time we knelt in thanksgiving to Him who had thus put honour on our weak faith. Mr. Watts had been nine years in Coomassie, labouring in the service of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, and for the last four had been prevented from communicating with the Coast, and had lived on the little money given him by the king at the feasts. The mission-house was fast falling into decay, the blocked up state of the roads * To refuse food is the only way in which you can make an Ashantea feel you are really in earnest. 100 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASIIANTEE. making repair impossible, the roof was in holes, the floors rotten, and the whole place scarcely habitable. The lower storey, being the best part, was used for a chapel and store-house ; our rooms were in the right wing, where were also those of the catechist and some workmen. The kindness of our host was extreme, the prince him- self made arrangements for our table, and we enjoyed better food than we had thought procurable in Ashantee. We slept again on bedsteads, though without bedding ; my wife’s spirits revived, and we were almost tempted to think ourselves stationary. Most earnestly did we pray that we might shine as lights in the surrounding darkness. But though the prince exerted himself in every way for our comfort, we were obliged to remind the king how much we were inconvenienced for want of money, especially as we were told that the prince and Mr. Watts were soon to leave us to be present at an exchange of prisoners on the Prah, December 20th. We wondered how this could take place, while we still remained cap- tives. The whole proceeding was involved in mystery, and we daily needed the grace of patience to sustain our fainting spirits. We took care to obey to the letter the king’s orders, so on our first Sabbath in the mission- house we contented ourselves with reading together in our own rooms, much as we longed to enjoy the little service conducted by our kind friends. The next day, Monday, was fixed for our public recep- tion by the king. Bosommuru came to announce this, telling us at the same time to keep up our courage, as we should probably hear rough words from the unman- nerly town’s people. Mr. Watts too seemed anxious about us, and considerately had the door guarded to prevent any of the savage Ashantees from entering, knowing their customs and their fearful cruelties. Often did they blunt their knives to increase the suffer- IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 101 ings of tlieir poor victims, or cut pieces out of the neck of the man they were about to behead ; at the same time they were full of superstition, and would throw palm- wine on the ground, and from the figures it formed prog- nosticate the future. At four o’clock, a royal messenger with gold-hilted sword came to escort us to the king. Clad in our best attire, white trousers, &c., we made ourselves look as well as we could. Mr. Watts and the prince could not accom- pany us, as they had to take their position near his majesty. We were received in the market place by our former chief from Duro, and Ageana with our soldiers all in full military costume ; the dresses were beautiful, even Ageana wore silk, and was far too proud to notice us. We were then led for an hour and a half through narrow streets and bye-ways, and at last brought into the midst of a crowd, here we waited a long time in the most in- tense heat, though happily the prince’s forethought had provided us with chairs. At length the approach of a stately man covered with golden ornaments, and his head adorned with fans of eagle’s wings, warned us that the grand event was near ; making his way through the throng he led us before the king, but though we were surrounded by the aristocracy of Coomassie, so rough was the scene, that my wife’s hat was torn off as she bowed before his majesty. Then re- tiring some distance, we took our seats under the shade of a large tree, and awaited the saluations from the grandees in return ; some were very friendly, while others, among them Opoko (one of the linguists to whom we gave the name of Pharisee), would not take our offered hand ; it was easy to see that the chiefs were at variance among themselves. Two men then came and danced like maniacs, with drawn swords, apparently trying to frighten us, while their servants were very 102 MISSIONARY LIFE IN AS II AN TEE. insulting, screaming in our faces, and pretending to cut off our heads. The king’s chairs were very curious, and quite new to us. About twenty of them were of mixed Ashantee and European workmanship, and had one or two bells, remind- ing us of the cow-bells of our beautiful Switzerland ; although finely ornamented they were all stained black with human blood. The real throne is a chair of the country, about four hundred years old, so patched with golden wire and plates that the original wood is scarcely visible. An immense umbrella is carried over it, and not until he has taken his seat in this chair is a new sovereign looked upon as king. As his majesty was carried past us he saluted us pleasantly, and then began a war-dance. He waved his sword most gracefully in every direction except towards us ; he next took a gun, inlaid with silver, with which he went through the same manoeuvres, laughing and nodding at us. This the prince explained afterwards, was a great honour. Over him was held the most beautiful of his umbrellas, of red and black velvet, and laced with gold.* He, like most of his chiefs, was clothed in calico, the symbol of mourning, no doubt on account of the war. It was quite night when we arrived at home, by a short road which brought us in ten minutes from the spot which had taken an hour and a half to reach in the morning. As we passed along the people followed, screaming and shouting : “ Enemies,” they cried, “ you shall all be killed ! Oh, you fools !” How thankful were we that this dreaded reception was over. We were told various stories of the doings on such occasions. The following may be taken as a sample of the cruel tastes of this savage people. On one occasion * It is the same umbrella which is now iu the museum at South Kensington. IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 103 the British ambassador was being received with great magnificence, when a man dying on a rack was carried past, as if by accident ; another time — -March, 1869 — the messenger of Mr. Simpson was ceremoniously greeted, when the bloody head of a man who had just been be- headed was placed before him. Prince Ansa, who was then present, angrily struck the bearer to the ground. We had much to learn in this strange capital. On the 18th of December the great Adae or feast was held, when we were expected to go with the prince and Mr. Watts to the hall in Deabo Street, and sit while the procession passed, that we might salute the king. This feast-day occurred every fortieth day, and was followed in eighteen or twenty more by the little Adae. About six days be- fore each, the king retired into his palace, after having drunk palm wine in the midst of all his chiefs, while two men stood by shooting arrows into the air ; * on the feast day itself, he appeared in the streets, gave gold dust to the chiefs and strangers, and ti'eated them to wine. Be- fore he left the palace, he visited the two buildings con- taining the chairs of the former kings, fourteen in number. The bones of these ancient worthies repose in Bantama. Their chairs of state the king sprinkled with rum. This over, he proceeded to the appointed place Mogyawe (meaning the blood dries), his ministers and chiefs pre- ceding him, amid the wildest music. On this occasion many saluted us, and some even danced before us ; a few had iron chains round their necks, which at the end of the dance, they laid hold of with their teeth : the king’s sixty fetishes were carried before him. Recognizing us he smiled, and commenced *At these palm wine festivals, which generally took place at the street called Dweboanda (meaning the flint-stone never sleeps), we, like all strangers, were obliged to be present and pay our respects to his majesty ; as a reward we received a jar of the wine. 104 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. Lis war-dance with sword and gun ; the executioners making ominous signs, were similarly engaged behind him. We followed to the place of greeting, where a dread- ful crowd had gathered, crying out, “ They shall all be killed,” but the presence of the prince checked their rage. Having at last succeeded in paying our respects to his majesty, we retired to our chairs to receive the customary presents. The prince had four dollars given him, Mr. Watts three, and ourselves nine, together with a small bottle of brandy, which we gave to our soldiers, who were constantly forcing themselves upon us in hope of obtain- ing something. Nine dollars for four persons was little enough, and yet it was all we had to live on until the little Adae, twenty-three days later, if our expected boxes from the Prah did not arrive sooner. The day after, we went to meet and thank his majesty, as he returned from his accustomed visit to Bantama, before he passed on to Amangliyia, where he allowed himself a rest of forty days, until the next Adae came round. From the various accounts which reached us of the king’s daily habits, we gathered that, like the Africans generally, he took but two meals a day, and ate but little of the many dishes set before him. Chicken, mutton, and especially pork, are his favourite viands. He eats alone at a beautifully wrought table in the court of the palace, but surrounded by his chiefs. At a distance stands his head cook (a golden spoon attached to his umbrella being the sign of his call- ing), incessantly stirring with a long fork the contents of the dish of which his majesty was partaking ; another attendant meanwhile rehearses in loud tones his royal master’s virtues ; and when he happens to be in a good humour, he sometimes throws a chicken or a piece of meat to his courtiers, that he may enjoy seeing the IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 105 scramble which ensues. Each of the king’s kra,* about a thousand in number, carries a gold plate upon his breast. All their money and jewellery, as well as that of thou- sands more, belong to the king ; indeed, most of the free people in Coomassie are so connected with the palace, that they bear the title of chiefs, and fulfil a particular office, and when they die their property goes to the monarch. The vassal states pay their tribute in slaves, cotton, silk, sandals, oxen, & c. Thus the king’s riches are increasing continually. A court is held every day but Friday, to which all have free access. A person accused of crime is put in irons until the trial, when he is brought forward before witnesses. If the testimony is deemed insufficient, the accusing party takes his oath ; if the accused then swear his innocence, he has to undergo a kind of ordeal ; being obliged to chew a piece of odum wood, and afterwards to drink a pitcher of water. If no ill effects follow, he is reckoned guilty and must die, but if he become sick he is set at liberty, and the accuser dies instead. A mur- derer is beheaded after the most cruel tortures, as described at page 127. On January 26th one of these trials took place. A rich heathen went to a mohammedan and asked him to bless his fortune. The moslem declined, saying the money had been acquired wrongly, and would soon be lost. A quarrel ensued, and the two men parted vowing never to speak to each other again. Some weeks passed when the rich man’s slaves again visited the moham- medan with the same request, i.e., that he would bless their master’s wealth. The moslem declared, that not- withstanding his vow the rich man had sent his slaves to * A kind of spies ; literally the king’s souls ; meaning that they are to die when he dies ; they are therefore very careful to report to their master anything which might be injurious to him. 106 MISSIONARY LIFE IF ASHANTEE. him; this the latter denied, and a worse quarrel followed, in which the moslem called his enemy a liar and a de- ceiver. The Ashantee upon this took the great oath of the king that he was innocent, the other did the same ; then followed the test. The Ashantee drank a lar^e O quantity of odum water, which caused him to swell fearfully, and he soon became sick. With a cry of joy the whole multitude rushed upon the mohammedan, dragging him to the block, where he was shortly after- wards beheaded. The following are a few of the laws which were in force in Coomassie while we were detained there, the breach of which was occasionally punished with death. 1. No drop of palm oil is, on any account, to be spilled in the streets. 2. No egg must be allowed to fall and break in the streets. 3. No one may smoke a European pipe in the streets. 4. No such pipe may be carried with a burden. 5. No burden packed in green palm branches may be carried in the town. 6. No one may whistle in Coomassie. 7. Every one is to hide himself when the king’s eunuchs call. 8. No work is to be done in any plantation on a Thursday. 9. Nothing is ever to be planted in Coomassie. 10. No pair of cocoah sandals may be worn in the palace. (These sandals are made of horse hide ; the price of them is cocoah or sixpence.) After witnessing such scenes as we have described, our joy and comfort in retiring to the quiet mission-house can be conceived. On Sunday, December 18th, we had the happiness of attending the little service in company with sixteen others, and ten people from the town. Mr. Watts IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 107 spoke to us from Eccles. ix. 12 — “For man knoweth not liis time ” — and also from Is. xxx. 15 — “In quietness and confidence shall he your strength.” We needed the lesson, for all around us was unstable to the last degree. On the evening of the 19th, the king took his seat so near the mission-house that we could not avoid saluting' him, and we had the honour of sitting near prince Ansa, and within twenty yards of the sovereign. We supposed he had ordered this meeting for the purpose of drinking palm wine, two jars of which were sent to us. This however was not his only object, for as he sat, about eighteen people advanced in procession before him, laden with presents, a tribute from the prince of Asini ; and this occurred only three weeks after Asini had sworn allegiance to the British Protectorate. Several dozens of rum, liqueur, champagne, and some beautiful silk stuff made up these presents. As soon as they had been de- livered, about a hundred women, in three groups, appeared on the scene, splendidly adorned and not wanting in grace, with white circles painted round their eyes, supposed to enhance their beauty. The king seemed very happy, and congratulated us on looking well. He promised to send prince Ansa an antelope, which really arrived the next day. During the time of rest, presents of these animals are constantly coming from the surrounding chiefs, who are in return supplied with gunpowder. The prince, who had to make a present, offered a bronze case of lavender water, upon which he received nine dollars in gold dust, and a second antelope. Christmas came, and found us in a far better position than we had been the previous year. I preached God’s word for the first time in Coomassie (from John iii. 16), and felt that I was again at a mission station. How I longed to speak the Tshi more fluently and correctly ; however, the people said they understood me. Unhappily, 108 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASII ANT EE. during the service the king’s hand, sent by his Majesty with congratulations “ to cheer our hearts on this festival,” interrupted us with their drums, clarionets, and cymbals - — an honour we would gladly have foregone — continuing their performance till five in the evening, when we gave them some dinner and a few small coins. I was after- wards attacked with fever, which did not leave me till the beginning of the new year. Notwithstanding my illness, I went with my party to see the king (December 29th) in Amanghyia. The royal messenger, Ivwabena, who called us, allowed no time for breakfast, some goods having just arrived ; and in consequence of this unnecessary haste we had to wait for the interview two hours in the heat. The king sat in a yard of the extensive two storied villa ; and in front of him stood seven chests addressed to us, which were opened, and an inventory taken of their contents. There were some composite candles which pleased him greatly, and he took possession of half of them. I got an alpaca dress for my wife, under protest, because she really needed it ; of ten other pieces of material, his majesty took six, of course the best. They were beautiful he said, and he would give us gold for them. We were to receive a benna of gold dust, equal to thirty-two dollars, but when it arrived, fully an eighth was wanting. Almost all the things we had ordered, with the exception of shoes for me, came. Prince Ansa’s wife sent her husband an umbrella ; and fourteen ounces of gold dust were given us in a sealed packet. When I asked the king if I might order some shoes from Christiansborg, he said prince Ansa and Mr. Watts would see to that, as they were going to the Coast next week. The prince plainly said he did not believe it ; whereupon the king offered to bet that he would obtain leave to depart on Saturday. He then gave us another sheep and two suas of gold dust, and handed us three IN C 00 MAS. SI E WITH PRINCE ANSA. 109 letters. Two were from the administrator, who begged ns to have compassion on M. Bonnat, and alluded to the F ranco-German war, more particulars of which we learned from the accompanying papers. The excitement of the day was too much for me, and violent fever supervened. Presents had now to he made ; first to the kino-’s chamberlain who had opened the chests, next to our former people, who complained that we had not taken them with us to the king ; and lastly to the bearers. We closed the year with a social tea and a midnight ser- vice ; we conversed and prayed most earnestly that we might celebrate the close of the coming year with our friends, and we did not forget to supplicate peace for poor France. On New Year’s day, 1871, came a present of yams, and four dollars, with which some friends had kindly planned to surprise us, but nothing more was said of the prince’s departure, so the king lost his wager. W e were not much concerned at the delay, for though we knew he would do his best for us at the Coast, we could scarcely imagine how we should get on in Coomassie without him. Not only did our former people cling to us like limpets, but they were commissioned by Bosommuru, to keep the Ashantees from annoying us, so that all our efforts were vain to resist their officious interference. On the return of the king from his villa, January 5th, 1871, we welcomed him at the usual place of reception, and then saw, among other wonderful things, his Fetish, which he worships every Tuesday. It consists merely of a small box covered with gold and silver, round which the Kitebund dance. After his majesty had received our salutations, he retired into the palace, whence he would not come forth until the little Adae on the 12th of' the month. A tremendous blowing of horns on the night of the 6 th 110 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. announced, as we thought, a great conflagration ; the cause, however, was an eclipse of the moon, which the mohammedans have taught the people to believe can only be removed by their prayers : on this day therefore they were loaded with presents. In the morning we again heard the dreadful sound which betokened an exe- cution — this time that of a thief. Prince Ansa had made repeated attempts to gain the ear of the king on our behalf, and at length he succeeded in reaching him in his retirement. He first requested that we might be entirely freed from our former people. Bosommuru opposed, but the queen-mother took our part on hearing how ill they behaved to us. He then pleaded for my wife, who had none of the care and comforts she was now specially needing. She was very unwilling to leave me, but I earnestly wished that she might be allowed to accompany the prince to the Coast. The king however declined to let her go on some trifling pretext, but promised that some of our former property should be brought us from Totorase. On January 12th, the little Adae was celebrated, and the king, again visited the buildings which contained the chairs of the deceased monarchs. Ten sheep were killed and cooked for them, after which his majesty sprinkled the chairs with their blood, “ to serve the spirits.” We paid our respects in the third court of the palace, and received the customary nine dollars from Bosommuru. A rumour was set afloat at the court, that my wife was the daughter of Mrs. Bannerman, originally an Ashantee princess, married in the war of 1836 to a mulatto, who was thought to be a deadly enemy of the Ashantees ; and it was added that Dompre had lost his life in his enthusi- astic efforts to procure her liberty. There had been so much silly talk on the subject, that we desired to know what the king had to say. For the first time in his life, IN CO 0 MASS IE WITH PRINCE ANSA. Ill prince Ansa was permitted to speak with his majesty in the presence of his torch-hearers only, who were quite hoys. When this gossip was mentioned, the king laughed and said, “ if Mrs. Ik’s mother had been an Ashantee woman, she would have had curly hair and a different nose.” Ansa then took the opportunity to speak of the shameful way in which we had been entrapped and sub- sequently treated, but the only reply he received was, “ Yes, Ageana is certainly a wicked man, and the soldiers will have nothing more to do with them.” “ But what about Adu Bofo ?” continued the king, “ have they an accusation to bring against him when he returns?” “ Very likely,” said Ansa, and then asked if Mrs. R. was not to accompany him to the Coast, at which the king laughed, but said nothing. The prince then asked if it was true that other white men had been taken prisoners, and were coming to Coom- assie. The king replied that there was some foundation for the report, but that he had ordered the captives to be set free. We afterwards found that the missionaries, Merz and Muller, of the North German Mission, although on British territory, and under the protection of the allies, had escaped with difficulty, not by command of the king, but by the prompt aid of the negroes of Keta. It was very difficult to reconcile the conflicting rumours, but we could at least rejoice that no more brethren were coming to share our misery. A strange interruption occurred on the following Sun- day (January 15th), by the entrance of Bosommuru as we were commencing our service. Being invited to stay and listen he sat down, but interrupted the prince at every sentence, loudly explaining all for the benefit of his followers. When others entered, he called out “prince, do you allow people to come here like this, 112 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. when you ai’e worshipping God ?” After the service, he announced the cause of his visit, which was to inform us that a new delay had arisen in the transporting our goods from Totorase, no doubt the fault of the inter- preter Nantshi, who would have liked to appropriate them. The following Sunday (January 22nd), he came again, when I had the opportunity of speaking before him on our Loi'd’s words, “ Go ye into all the world,” &c. The feast of the king’s household fetish, lasted ten days, when chickens and sheep were sacrificed ; goats were brought for the same purpose, and kept in a hamlet near the town, although they are usually strictly for- bidden throughout the whole country. On the first day the king danced in front of a house near us, the birth-place of one of his ancestors. Prince Ansa declined to be present on such occasions ; but on the 20th, when this dance was repeated, his majesty sent for us ; Rosa, however, remained at home, being unable to bear the noise. We found the king surrounded by his chiefs, dancing with a quiver on his back covered with gold, and a richly ornamented velvet cap on his head. He sprang backwards and forwards, flourishing sword and gun, and looking continually at us, evidently desiring our admiration. He kept very good time to the music, which was performed by a band in the centre of the group. He dances really well, but wildly, so that some of his people surround him with outstretched arms in case his foot should slip. But as to his followers, their dance surpasses in savage- ness everything which can be imagined ; if one can fancy a number of men in all possible and impossible positions, flitting about in noisy confusion, and so mingled to- gether as to remind one of a band of demons, you have them before you. Yet they kept wonderfully good time. Still, however frequently one may witness such scenes, IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 113 there is something not only startling hut awful in them. Nothing more was said about the journey to the coast till the night of January 23rd, when the king sent for the prince and Mr. Watts. Letters had arrived from the English authorities thanking the king for sending back several Fantees, and expressing the hope that he would keep his word, and give the Europeans their liberty as soon as his general had returned. Should he, however, be delayed, it was hoped the king would inform the governor in order that he might hurry Adu Bofo back over the Volta. As regarded Elmina, the Dutch governor denied that the fort had been bought by the Ashantees, or that money had ever been received for it. On this point the king could satisfy himself by sending a mes- senger to enquire. It was very painful to him (the governor) to find that the king did not keep his word with regard to the ex- change of the prisoners. Again and again he had promised and Major Brownell had waited long and patiently. They had begged the king to recall his army from Akwa- mu, instead of which he had re-formed it. The governor then drew his majesty’s attention to the danger of such conduct, but added that if the king would at once send the Fantees back with prince Ansa, all would yet be well, and peace would be proclaimed throughout the whole territory. If he still refused, Major Brownell would be recalled with his prisoners. Ten da} T s was the longest time which could be allowed to consider this proposal. The prince strongly advised the king to accept the offer of peace, speaking in the highest terms of the patience the English had manifested throughout, and expressing his sense of shame at the constant vacillation, excuses, and unfaithfulness of his country. He also put in a word for I 114 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. my wife, whereupon Bosommuru interrupted, saying, “ The elders will not have it.” “ What do I care for the elders ?” answered the prince. Further experience, how- ever taught us that the opinion of these worthies is of great weight, and we were prevented by it from having an audience of the king. On the 31st, prince Ansa received his message to the English ambassador — “ His majesty regretted not having officially announced to him that he, Kofi Kari Kari, had ascended the Ashantee throne in 1867, and that a mes- senger had repeatedly started for the coast, but had been driven back by fear of robbers. Some Akems had recently taken some Ashantees prisoners, and even killed them ; he would therefore like to know whether Akem was under the British Protectorate.” At the prince’s request the interpreters wrote these messages down, but our affairs were not mentioned. Presents of dresses and gold were given to him and his followers, and at his earnest entreaty seventy eggs and four pounds of rice were added for our use. A poor Asen negro, who two years before had been severely punished for secretly selling gunpowder, would then have been killed but for the prince’s intercession. Now that prince Ansa was about to leave Coomassie, the chief executioner claimed him as his property, saying, “ only Fan tees are set free.” Again, the entreaties of the prince prevailed, and the poor trembling man was delivered. The prince invited us to accompany him on his fare- well visit to the king. Brother K. was too ill to go, but M. Bonnat and myself agreed to his request. Passing through the seven courts leading to the palace, we found the king in the eighth, sitting under the arcades, which were tastefully decorated — he was almost enclosed by them, and was quite in dishabille; six boys stood before him bearing torches. He was very merry, saying to the IN COOMASSIE WITH PRINCE ANSA. 115 Fantees around him, “ Go home now, and tell your country- men to forget the past, and to think of something new and better — peace.” I then addressed his majesty, thanking him for the presents, and added that I had laid my case before the elders, and could not understand why they had not deigned to answer me. I also said I could take no future responsibility, but would rest content, knowing I had done my duty. His majesty listened patiently, and said I was to make myself easy, as Adu Bofo would soon come back. Im- mediately after the little Adae, the jaw bones of the fallen enemies would arrive, * and a week or two after the great Adae, the general himself would follow. Then, as soon as prince Ansa came back, we might go to the Coast. On February 1st, we eagerly began to pack up. The prince had left four of his servants with us — an old, infirm upper servant, who could do little but give orders to the others, a woman but recently confined, from whom we could not expect much ; our chief dependence was on Caesar, who looked after the kitchen, and a little girl who was to attend on my wife. The prince left early on the morning of the 2nd, and Mr. Watts followed two days later with the other Fantees. How heavy were our hearts at this parting. Brother K’s health was terribly shaken, and when I begged Bosommuru to send two boys to help us, he said ironically, looking at the poor invalid, “Yes, pray to your God to make him well again.” I replied, “ our God can make him well to- * Before the return of the army, the general in command sends to the capital, the jaw bones of the slain enemies. His own return caDnot take place till forty days after these have been received. While in the camp, we ourselves witnessed the drying and smoking of these bleeding trophies. 116 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH ANTE E. day, if it be His will ; but it may also be His will to let him suffer longer ; at anyrate, all the Ashantees have to say about it is, that they have tortured the innocent, and have caused the death of our child. It is true our God is long-suffering, but He will not always be mocked.” TIMES OF SICKNESS, &c. 117 CHAPTER XVI. TIMES OF SICKNESS AND FORSON'S EMBASSY. The departure of the prince inaugurated a new order of things with us, for in him we had lost our housekeeper, adviser, and the manager of our purse. Our sorrow was deepened by the increasing indisposition of brother K., who could only take rice soup and chicken, and who in his depression would sometimes pray he might be released from his sufferings. The most dreadful of the Ashantee festivals, Bantama, or “ death wake,” now approached. The king went early in the morning of February 5th, to Bantama, where the remains of his deceased predecessors were preserved in a long building, approached by a gallery, and partitioned into small cells, the entrances of which were hung with silken curtains. In these apartments reposed the skele- tons of the kings, fastened together with gold wire, and placed in richly ornamented coffins, each being sur- rounded by what had given him most pleasure during his fife. On this occasion every skeleton was placed on a chair in his cell to receive the royal visitor ; who, on entering, offered it food ; after which a band played the favourite melodies of the departed. The poor victim selected as a sacrifice, with a knife thrust through his cheeks, was then dragged forward and slain, the king washing the skeleton with his blood. Thus was each cell visited in turn, sacrifice after sacrifice being offered, till evening closed ere the dreadful round was completed. 118 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASHANTEE. We had heard the blowing of horns and heating of drums throughout the day, and were told that nearly thirty men had been slain. These alas ! were not all, for at six o’clock after the king had returned, the horn and the drum again sounded, betokening that more victims were yet to fall, and far into the night the melancholy sound continued. Two blasts of the horn signified “ death ! death ! ” three beats of the drum, “ cut it off ! ” and a single beat from another drum, announced “the head has dropped ! ” Powerless as we were, amid the fearful darkness around, to hinder such atrocities, we could only sigh and pray that our captivity might bring about a better state of things. We had now to endure much discomfort, being unable to obtain the merest trifles, such as rice for our poor in- valid, and salt which we could not buy, without long delay, while thefts were of daily occurrence in our unpro- tected premises, even boards and benches being abstracted, neither were the promised lads sent to our help. We heard nothing further of the return of the army ; on the contrary, fresh troops were despatched to strengthen Adu Bofo’s hands. Kind messages often reached us from the prince, and frequent presents from the Coast assured us that we and our needs were not forgotten by our friends there. When I next paid my respects to the king, a violent storm of wind scattered the people, turning the large umbrellas inside out. I caught cold, and was soon laid low by fever, so that on the great Adae, March 12th, M. Bonnat alone was present. The king’s physician was sent to attend me, but his green pepper soup failed to relieve me. I became worse, and longed for European medicine. The report of my increasing illness brought his majesty to my bedside in great haste, and that too at three o’clock, the hour when he usually slept. He was surprised at my unusual colour, TIMES OF SICKNESS, &c. 119 and said, syinpathisingly, to poor Rosa, “ You have, indeed, much trouble, white woman.” I seized the oppor- tunity to tell him I had lived too long in Africa; that my illness made a change to the Coast necessary, and I entreated him to hasten our departure. He bade me take courage, promising to send a messenger with letters to my friends. He then paid Kuhne a visit, to whom his physician daily brought rice soup, mixed with fish and vegetable. The excitement of this interview, heightened the fever, so that I feared I might be leaving my poor wife desolate in this barbarous land ; but I rallied through God’s mercy, though I suffered long from extreme weakness. Meanwhile, the long expected exchange of prisoners took place on the Prah. Of our party, only M. Bonnat could be present at the reception, on March 20th, of the seventy-six Ashantees. The general joy was so great, that many of the chiefs danced, and the liberated hastened to shake hands with M. Bonnat, while parents and friends thanked the king by a loud shout. The warm heart of the Frenchman sympathised deeply with them, and some day, we trusted a similar festival was in store for us, though it approached very slowly. A letter from the prince stated that the exchange of prisoners had taken place on the 2nd, and one of the returned captives said, that he had not resumed his journey until five days later, so that we knew not when we might expect his return, and our life was more dismal than it is possible to describe. We had just retired to rest on Sunday evening 26th, when the death horn woke us, and in the morning we heard that the king had danced with his wives. On these occasions, human life is always sacrificed. The best band of music, called the Kete, is stationed at some distance, no man being permitted to approach. The in- 120 MISSIONARY LIFE IN ASH AN TEE. struments are small drums covered with black and red checked cloth, flutes and calibashes of different sizes, in which beans or small stones are rattled, to mark the time. The king seldom dances this Kete dance, but when he does, many shudder who are usually indifferent. On the night which followed this painful entertainment, we were alarmed by two thieves, and though a lamp was burning in K’s room, our salt bottle was stolen. Caesar met in the yard one of the rogues carrying a torch, which he threw down and fled. In the morning we found our saucepan broken, and our only chicken minus a head, which the scamp had bitten off. It was then announced by the town-crier, that any one stealing our property in future, should be killed. Brother K. was still very weak. His two physicians meeting one day to consult at his bedside, quarrelled so violently that the poor invalid jumped out in a frenzy, and begged to be allowed to die in peace, while I urged his being sent to the Coast as the most effective I’estorative. When I begged earnestly for chickens, offering to pay for them, the king laughed and promised. His thoughts were occupied with the return of a chief laden with pre- sents, a small race-horse being the most acceptable. He had been sent two years before to Seram, a tract of country to the north, a tributary of Ashantee, and on his arrival danced several times before his majesty. Brother K. struggled through, by God’s help, spite of the non-appearance of the chickens, and at length gradu- ally recovered ; but we still had anxiously to wait for news from the Coast, and at the little Adae were not present, though we received the customary nine dollars through Bosommuru. On Sunday, April 8th, new horrors were perpetrated. The king went to Bantama to repair the roof of the royal burial-place, which had been injured in the late storm. TIMES OF SICKNESS,