TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 ARABIA, 
 
 AND OTHER 
 
 COUNTRIES IN THE EAST, 
 
 ' PERFORMED BV 
 
 M. NIEBUHR, 
 
 KOW A CAPTAIN OF ENGINEERS IN THE SERVICE OF 
 THE KING OF DENMARK. 
 
 TRANSLATED INTO ENG LLSH 
 
 B Y 
 
 ROBERT HERON. 
 
 WITH NOTES BY THE TRAl^SLATCil; 
 
 JLLUSTRATEX) WirH ENCRAFINGS AND MAFS. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES- 
 
 VOL. 1. 
 
 EDINBURGH: 
 
 4PEINTED FOR E. MORISON AND SON, BOOKSELLERS, E£RTHj 
 ^. >IUDJF, EDINBURGH ; AND T. VF^KNOE, 
 PIECHIN LANE, LONDON. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/travelsthroughar11nieb 
 
\J. ! 
 
 PREFACE ir c-x, ; 
 
 BY THE 
 
 TRANSLATOR 
 
 I REMEMBER to have read, with no fmall 
 furprize, of a rhyming Latin poem of con- 
 iiderable length, written by fome Monkifli 
 eompofer of Leonine verfes, in honour of 
 the Virgin Mary, w^hich was made wholly 
 np by the changes rung upon the words of 
 this fingle line. 
 
 Tot tibifmit^ virgo^ dotes^ quot fidera ccelo._ 
 
 My wonder w^as never more highly excited 
 than when, in learning the rules of arith- 
 metic, I found what a variety of changes 
 might be rung upon a few bells ; and for 
 how many years, a company of ten or 
 twelve perfons might dine together, if they 
 fliould not feparate, till they could no 
 longer make a new change of places. 
 
 Similar emotions are naturally raifed in 
 the mind, when one connders, how uni- 
 
 VoL. L A form 
 
vi 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 form are the circumftances of human life, 
 how much alike the organs of our bodies, 
 and the faculties of our minds ; yet, how 
 innumerable the diverfities of the humau 
 charaöer r how few the firft general ele- 
 ments of nature ; yet, how endlefsly varied 
 the forms which this univerfe exhibits ! 
 He who fpends his life without wandering 
 ever more than a few miles from the fpot 
 bf his nativity, or without mingling with 
 any other but the firft circle, whether of 
 courtiers, of cits, or of ruftics, into whoft 
 fociety he has been introduced, can know 
 little of the dignity, of the meannefs, of 
 the capacities of his nature, — and but little 
 of the beavities and the wonders of this 
 great theatre of human exertions* 
 . It is pleafing, indeed, to review the re-, 
 cords of ovir anceftors. The exercife moves 
 TQur affedions to a generous warmth, and 
 enlightens our perfonal experience. But> 
 the nev/ knowledge to be thus acquired, is 
 not confiderable. Children are but the ima- 
 ges of their parents ; and the fame meadow 
 will wear the fame afpedl, next Spring, 
 whic:h it fhewed oil the laft. Tp enlarge, 
 
 in 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 ill any tonfiderable degree, the extent of 
 our knowledge, we muft change the fcenes 
 and we fhall then fee, how the manners 
 and enjöymerits of man vary w^ith external 
 circumftanees ; and how happily the gene- 
 ral laws of nature, notwlthftanding their 
 fimplicity, apply to an infinite multitude 
 of the minutefl and moft particular cafes. 
 
 Hence is travelling fo agreeable ; and 
 hence are the narratives of intelligent tra- 
 vellers fo rich a fund of entertainment and 
 inftrudlion. To wander from city to city, 
 from hill to vale, and from vale to hill ; to 
 fee one new extent of horizon open" upon 
 the eye after another, and landfcape after 
 landfcape, difplay fublimity and beauty in 
 all their varying forms,— affords perhaps 
 the moft delightful, at leaft the mofl im- 
 proving amufement of which the human 
 mind is fufceptible. To fee thefe things 
 through the eyes of another, is indeed 
 much lefs interefting, than wdien we can 
 view them ourfelves. Yet, as a traveller 
 cannot well help throv/ing into his work 
 more of the vivid imagery and colouring 
 of nature, than almofl any different wri~ 
 
 A 2 ter;— 
 
Viii PREFACE. 
 
 ters ; — even in perufing die narrative of ano-* 
 ther's travels, therefore, one may enjoy no 
 fmall fliare of that pleafure, and reap a con- 
 fiderable portion of the inftrudlion, which an 
 adual furvey of the fame fcenes might af- 
 ford. 
 
 Who, that has been taught to relifli at all 
 the pleafures of reading, can refrain from 
 enquiring after almoft every new book of 
 travels, the pu»blication of which is an- 
 nounced ? Hardly a fine lady can ftray 
 to France or Italy, after her beauty has 
 withered with her virtue, and her wit has 
 ceafed to be fafliionable ; Scarce can one of 
 thofe travelling governors by trade, to 
 whofe care the finilliing of the education 
 of our young men of fortune^ is fo wifely 
 intruded,— vifit a new fet of inns, or ride 
 another relay of poft horfes, on the con-^ 
 tinent ; Not a half-pay captain attends as 
 toad-eater on fome valetudinary man of for- 
 tune, going abroad for his health : But 
 Tours, and Travels, and Journies, and Let- 
 ters, are the certain fruits of every fucli 
 expedition, and are as certainly bellowed, 
 with wonderful generofity, on the public» 
 
 All 
 
IX 
 
 All is called for, and eagerly read : And, to 
 fay the truth, almoft all thofe works, how- 
 ever little might be expected from them, 
 when every circumftance is confidered^— • 
 afford more, or lefs, to repay, in a reafon- 
 able way, the expence of the buyer, and 
 the pains of the reader. But, when a man 
 of found fenfe, of real energy and adivicy 
 of mind, acquainted with letters, and not 
 unacquainted with life, — when fuch a man, 
 travelling, notes dovv^n his obfervations, 
 and communicates them to the public ; he 
 confers a favour, fuch as authors have it 
 feldom in their power to give. This fa-- 
 vour will be fo much the greater, if his 
 obfervations have been made with an eye 
 of keen enquiry ; and if he has vifited re- 
 gions where all is peculiar, and but little 
 known. 
 
 Having thefe confiderations in my mind, 
 I fliould offer the following Travels to Bri- 
 tifli readers with no fmail pride and confi- 
 dence, if 1 were fure of having arrayed 
 them in a handfome and becoming Engiifii 
 drefs. Mr Niebuhr was the fole farvivor of 
 a party of five Daniih travellers, v/ho, be- 
 lli'''' 
 
ing feleded as men eminently qualified to 
 accompliih the feveral purpofes of fuch ari 
 expedition, were feat into the Eaft at the 
 expence of the King of Denmark, to explore 
 the various curiofities of Egypt, but efpe- 
 cially of Arabia. They proceeded firft to E- 
 gypt. After making an excurfion to Mount 
 Sinai, and preparing themfelves, by the 
 ftudy of the Arabic language, for the far- 
 ther profecution of their journey, they fail- 
 ed from Suez, down the Red Sea, to Jidda^ 
 Having landed at Jidda^ they continued 
 their journey fouthward to Mokha ; not 
 w^ithout occafional excurfions to the N. E. 
 into the interior parts of the country. From 
 Mokha, they travelled nearly in a fouth-eaft- 
 ern direction to Sana, the feat of the great- 
 eft prince in Arabia. By the time they 
 had accompliflied this laft journey, and 
 returned to Mokha, two of the party were 
 dead ; and, by the pernicious influence of 
 the climate, by the unfavourablenefs of the 
 oriental mode of living to European confti- 
 tutions, by their inability to relinquifli 
 European habits, and by the fatigue necef- 
 farily attending their inveftigations, th^ 
 
 health 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xi 
 
 health of the furvivors was fo much impair- 
 ed, that they were obliged to refolve upon 
 leaving Arabia with the firft Englifh fliip 
 that failed for Bombay. Mr Niebuhr and 
 another of his companions lived to reach 
 India. This other, after languiihing for a 
 while, at laft died at Bombay. 
 
 After this event, Niebuhr remained in 
 the Eaft only till he could find a fit oppor- 
 tunity of returning fafe into Europe, v/itli 
 the colledion of curiofities which was left 
 in his hands. 
 
 Such is the outline of thefe Travels. They 
 afford the lateft, and indeed almoft the on- 
 ly topographical account of Arabia, in the 
 hands of the European public. Being the 
 refults of the obfervation, not of one man 
 only, but of a party of travellers, and thofe 
 all well qualified to dired: their attention in 
 a proper line of enquiry; they contain fuch 
 a body of truly valuable information as is 
 to be met with in very few other volumes 
 of travels. Relating to a country famous 
 from the earlieft ages of antiquity ; they are 
 thus rendered peculiarly interefting by the 
 nature of their fubjedl. They throw much 
 
 new 
 
xii 
 
 PHEFACE. 
 
 new light on the hiftorical events, the laws^ 
 the woFihlp, and the cufloms recorded iu 
 the Old Teftament. And I miift, upon 
 the whole, confefs, that I have never be- 
 fore had it in my power to abufe fo good an 
 occaiion of receiving real mental improve- 
 ment with rational amiifement,as that which 
 the tranflating of this work has afforded me. 
 
 It would be unfair to negie6l advertifing 
 the reader, that the whole of Mr Niebuhr's 
 account of his travels, and obfervations in 
 Arabia, is not comprized in thefe volumes. 
 Various things feemed to be addreifed fo 
 exclufively to men of erudition, that they 
 could not be expei^ted to win the attention 
 of the public in general, and have therefore 
 been left out. 
 
 As to the tranüation ; I cannot indeed 
 fay much for it. I entered upon the taflc 
 with a refolution to perform it carefully, 
 and, as it could not be fappofed very ardu- 
 ous, I might perhaps fecretly flatter myfelf, 
 ably. I was kindly encouraged by fom^e 
 eminent literary characters, to whofe bene- 
 volent notice I have been often much in- 
 debted. But, after I had made confiderable 
 
 progrefs 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xiii 
 
 progrefs in the work ; I put what I had 
 performed into the hands of one gentleman, 
 for whofe learning, tafle, and judgments I 
 muft ever entertain high deference ; and 
 he, with the hioft candid and obliging cri- 
 ticifm, pointed out feveral blunders, as well 
 of the tranflator as of the printer, which I 
 was furprized to perceive, and cannot yet 
 think of, without lhame. Thefe I have 
 endeavoured, as far as circumftances would 
 permit, to revife and correal ; and I renewed 
 my diligence to guard againft all fuch mif- 
 takes in what then remained to be print- 
 ed. 
 
 I have added fome notes : I wifh, they 
 were valuable. 
 
 R. HERON 
 
 Edinburgh "} 
 Aug. I. 1792. J 
 
 li Contents. 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 SECTION I. 
 Voyage from Copenhagen to Alexandria« 
 
 Page. 
 
 Chap. L — Departure from Copenhagen, - p 
 
 Chap. II. — Paflage from Marfeilles to Malta, and 
 
 from Malta to Conftantinople, - 13 
 Chap. III. — Conftantinople, - - 18^ 
 
 Chap. IV. — Voyage from Conftantinople to Alex- 
 andria, i - - - 24 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 Of Egypt in general. 
 
 Chap. I. — Of the City of Alexandria, - 32 
 
 Chap. II. — Voyage from Alexandria to Rofetta, 40 
 
 Chap. IIL — Voy.ige from Rofetta to Cairo, - 42 
 
 Chap. IV. — Voyage from Cairo to Damietta, 45 
 
 Chap. V. — -Of the ancient Cities of Lower Egypt, 5 1 
 
 Chap. VL— Of the City of Cairo, - - 55 
 
 Chap. Vli. — ^Of the country immediately around 
 
 Cairo, - - - - 63 
 
 Chap. VIII. — Of the Mikkias or Nilometer, and of 
 
 the rifing of the Nile, - - 66 
 
 b a SEC- 
 
xvi 
 
 Contents* 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 Of the Government, Arts, and Trade of 
 Egypt. 
 
 Page 
 
 Chap. I. — Of the Nature of the Egyptian Govern- 
 
 ment, - ^ _ „ /y^ 
 Chap. II. — Of the Grand Signlor's Officers, - 75 
 Chap. lit.— Of the Divan, and the Bey, ^ 77 
 Chap. IV. — Of the Police of the Cities, - 83 
 Chap. V. — Of the Egyptian Agriculture, - 8(5 
 Chap. Vl.^Of the Arts of fublimating Sal Ammo- 
 niac, and of hatching Chickens, - 99 
 Chap. VII. — Of the trade of Egypt, - 94 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 Of the Manners of the Orientals in gene- 
 ral, and particularly of the Egyptians. 
 
 Chap 1. — Of the Inhabitants of Cairo and its 
 
 Neighbourhood, - - - 1 01 
 
 Chap. IL — Of the Copts, , - - 103 
 
 Chap. III. — Of the Arabians in Egypt, - 107 
 
 Chap. IV. — Of the Drefs of the Men in the Eaft, 1 1 1 
 
 Chap, V. — Of the Drefs of the Women, - 116 
 
 Chap. VI. — Of the Diverfions of the Orientals, 1 2 1 
 
 Chap. VII. — Games in the Eaft - 128 
 
 Chap. VIIL— Of the Mufic of the Eaft, - 130 
 
 Chap. IX.— Of Dancing, as it is praftifed in the 
 
 Eaft, - . - - 137 
 
 Chap* 
 
CONTENTS. XVli 
 
 Page 
 
 Chap. X. — Public Shews of the Eafl, ^ 143 
 
 Chap. XI — Marriages of the Egyptians, - 147 
 
 SECTION V. 
 Egyptian Antiquities. 
 
 Chap. I. — Egyptian Antiquities in general, - 149 
 Chap II.— Of the Pyramids, - - 153 
 
 Chap. III. — Of .the Hieroglyphics, - - 15^ 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 Journey from Cairo to Suez and Mount 
 Sinai. 
 
 Chap. I.- — Preparations for our Departure, - 16^ 
 Chap. II — Voyage from Cairo to Suez, - 17» 
 Chap. IIL— Of the City of Suez, - - 175 
 
 Chap. IV. — Particulars concerning the Arabs in 
 
 the Neighbourhood of Suez, - 178 
 Chap. V. — Journey from Suez to Mount Sinai, 182 
 Chap. VI. — Of Mount Sinai, and the Convent of 
 ^ St Catharine, - - - 191 
 
 Chap. VII.— Our Return from Mount Sinai, 196 
 Chap. VIII. — Of the Mountain of Infciiptions, and 
 
 of an Egyptian Burying Place, - 20« 
 Chap. IX.^ — Of fome Cuftoms of the Arabs in the 
 
 Defart, - - « - 207 
 
 SECTION VIL 
 Voyage from Suez to Jidda and Loheia. 
 
 Chap. I. — Departure from Suez^ » - 212 
 
 Chap, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Chap. II.— Of the Harbour of Tor, - 2 16 
 
 Chap. fll. — Voyage from Tor to Jidda, - 218 
 
 Chap. IV. — Of Jidda and its Vicinity, - 226 
 
 Chap. V. — The Government and Trade of Jidda, 234 
 
 Chap. VI. — Voyage from Jidda to Loheia, - 239 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 
 Route from Loheia to Beit el Fakih. 
 
 Chap. L — Of our ftay at Loheia, - - 246 
 
 Chap. IL — Of the City of Loheia, - 252 
 
 Chap. in. — Of the Inhabitants of Loheia, - 256 
 
 Chap. IV.-— Departure from Loheia, - 26z 
 
 Chap. V. — Route by Tehama, - - 265 
 
 Chap. VI.— Of the City of Beit el Fakih, - 269 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 Excurüons through the Country about 
 Beit el Fakih. 
 
 Chap. I. — Journey to Ghalefka, - - 275 
 
 Chap. IL— Return to Beit el Fakih, by the way of 
 
 Kodeida, - - - - 279 
 Chap. III.— Journey to Zebid, - - 281 
 
 Chap. IV. — Journey to Kahhme, - 287 
 
 Chap. V. — Journey to Coffee Mountains - 28p 
 
 SECTION X. 
 
 Tourney through the Mountaneous Part 
 of Yemen. 
 
 Chap. I.— Departure from Beit el Fakih, - 294 
 
 Chap. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XIX 
 
 Page 
 
 Chap. IL— Route by Udden, - - 297 
 
 Chap. in. — From Udden to Dfjobla, - 30t 
 
 Chap. IV, — Route from Dfjobla, byTses, to H^s, 304 
 
 Chap, v.— Return to Beit el Fakih, - 309 
 
 SECTION XL 
 
 Journey from Beit el Fakih to Mokba. 
 
 Chap. I.— 'Route to Mokha, - - 313 
 
 Chap. U. — A_rrival at Mokha, - 310 
 
 Chap. in. — Difagreeable Incidents at Mokha, 319 
 
 Chap. IV Our Stay at Mokha, continued ; and 
 
 the Death of Mr Von Haven^ - 3 24 
 
 ChaD. V'—< We leave Mokha, - - 327 
 
 SECTION XIL 
 
 Journey from Mokha to Taoes, 
 
 Chap. I. — Our Progrefs to Taoes, - 331 
 
 Chap. II. — Of the City of Taoes, - ° 335 
 
 Chap. III.— -Late Revolution of Taoes, - 338 
 
 Chap, IV.—btay at Taoes, - « -241 
 Chap, v.— -Departure from Taoes to Sana, » 
 
 SECTION XIIL 
 Journey to Sana. 
 
 Chap, I. — Route from Taoes to Jerim, 
 Chap. II — Of the City of Jerim, 
 Chap. lO —Death of Mr. Forfkal, 
 Chap. IV.— Route from Jerim to Sana, 
 
 35® 
 35^ 
 358 
 360 
 SEC» 
 
C O N "T E N T S. 
 
 SECTION XIV. 
 Our Stay at Sana, in the Iman's CourL 
 
 Page 
 
 Cliap. I.— Our Arrival at Sana, - » 
 
 Cliap. IL-— Our Audience of the Iman, - ^pB 
 
 Chap. IIL— Tifit to Vizier Fakih Achmed, 401 
 
 Chap. IV. — Of the City of Sana, - - 403 
 
 Chap, v.— -Of the Country around Sana, - 407 
 Chap. VL-— The Pomp of the Iman's Return from 
 
 the Mofque, - - - 410 
 
 Chap. VlI.~Our Audience of taking leave, 412 
 
 Chap. Vin.-— Our Departure from Sana, ^ 415 
 
 SECTION XV. 
 
 Our Return from Sana to Mokha. 
 
 Chap. Route from Sana to Beit el Fakih, 419 
 
 Chap. IL^ — Route from Beit el Fakih to Mokha, 4^4 
 
 Chap. III.™-Of the City of Mokha, - 426 
 Chap. IV.— Bombardment of Mokha^ by the 
 
 French, - » - - 431 
 
 Chiip. V.~Of the Trade of Mokha - 434 
 
 NoT^s, - - - - - 439 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
VOYAGE TO ARABIA, 
 
 AND 
 
 r RAVEL 5 
 
 In that country, "i^c. 
 
 , SECTION I. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM COPENHAGEN TO ALEXANDRIA, 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 Departure from Copenhagen* 
 
 W HEN the gentlemen, who had been appointed 
 to go upon this expedition of obfervation and dif- 
 covery, were all met, we received orders from his 
 Majefty to proceed on board a Ihip of war, com- 
 manded by Mr Fifcher, at prefent a vice-admiral 
 in the Danifh fervice^ who was to carry us to 
 Smyrna* We accordingly embarked, on the 4th 
 of January 1761 ; and, after waiting three days 
 for a fair wind, failed out of the road of Co- 
 penhagen on the 7th of the fame month. 
 Vol. I. A In 
 
10 
 
 NIEBüHR*S TRAVELS 
 
 In the beginning of our voyage, we had 
 a ftriking proof of the dangers and hardfhips 
 which attend the navigation of the north feas, 
 in confeqiience of the weil winds blowing over 
 them for nine months in the year. We had fet 
 fail on the 7th of January, but were fo toffed by 
 ftorms and contrary winds, that, on the 17th 
 in defpair of being able to gain any port in 
 Norway, we determined to return to Elfineur. 
 
 On the 26th of January, we failed from Elfi- 
 neur a fecond time, v^^ith a fair wind, which 
 continued to the end of the month. "W"e paffed 
 the Categat, and advanced a good way through 
 the North fea : But, in the beginning of Febru- 
 ary, the w^eather became again flormy, and the 
 wind contrary. After being tofled for feveral 
 days fucceflively, and feeing no profpecl of a 
 change, we, on the 9th, refolved to return to 
 Elfineur a fecond time, and reached it on the 
 loth. The wind blew with fuch violencCy as to 
 carry us, in thirty hours, as far backwards as we 
 had been able to advance forwards in nine days. 
 
 While our fiiip was thus difagreeably tofied, 
 without making way, we were all extremely fea- 
 fick; and efpecially Mr Von Haven, who, find- 
 ing himfelf unable to bear it any longer, ob=- 
 tained permiffion to go by land from Copenha- 
 gen to Marfeilies, at which port our fliip was 
 to touch. 
 
 On 
 
IN APvABIA, 
 
 On the ipth of February, we failed out of the 
 road of Ellineur a third time, in hopes of finding 
 the winds lefs variable. But hardly had we palTed 
 the Skalen, when a violent weft wind forced us 
 back to Elfineur. We were now very uneafy, 
 confidering, that we had been tolTed upon thofe 
 feas for the fpace of 850 German miles=^, v/ithout 
 advancing more than four miles towards the end 
 of our voyage. But we had reafon to be happy 
 at finding ourfelves fafe at Elfineur : Immedi- 
 ately after our arrival there, fo furious a ftorm 
 arofe, that, although in fome degree flieltered 
 by the coaft, we were obliged to take every pof- 
 fible precaution for the fafety of our fliip, juft as 
 if w^e had been in the open fea. This (lorm a- 
 rofe from the weft, and continued till the 5th 
 of March, 
 
 The weather became gradually fiiir and fe- 
 rene ; and, on the loth of March, w^e left Elfi- 
 neur for the laft time. The wind was at firft fo 
 brific, that v/e failed at the rate of two German 
 leagues and a half in the hour. On the 12th it 
 changed ; and from the 19th to the end of 
 March, ftorms and contrary vv inds drove us as 
 far north as to the latitude of 63^, near the coaft 
 of Iceland. On this occafion I remarked, that 
 the motion of a veifel is moft difagreeable im- 
 mediately after a ftorm. In the height of a 
 
 B 2 ftorm^ 
 
 * Or 2,833^ Engliih miles. 
 
12 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 ftorm, the winds incline the üiip to one 
 iide, and keep it firm ; but, when they are 
 calmed, the fhip naturally feels the impulfe of 
 the waves. 
 
 In thefe latitudes, Mr Forfkall made, fome 
 obfervations upon the phofphoric light which 
 the fea has been remarked to exhibit. He per- 
 cieved it to be produced by fmall marine in- 
 fe(fts, chiefly of the Medufa fpecies, with which 
 thofe waters are filled. Thefe infeds long re- 
 tain the power of fhining in the dark. Happening 
 to pour out by night a bucket of fea water, upon 
 which thefe obfervations were made, we faw all 
 the objeds which it tQUched, fparkle inftantly, 
 like itfelf (a). 
 
 Spring began to come in, at the end of March, 
 and in the beginning of April we had the fineft 
 weather in the world. But the dead calm which 
 fucceeded fuch a feries of ftorms, detained us in 
 thofe northern regions till the 8th of April. A 
 fair wind then arofe, and carried us fo brifiily for- 
 ward, that, on the 21ft of the month, we arri- 
 ved within light of Cape St Vnicent, which we 
 viewed with no fmall pleafure, as we had now 
 been long out of the fight of land. 
 
 After being tolTed in the North fea through a 
 fiorray winter, we entered the Mediterranean in 
 the finefc feafon of the year. Inilead of the wild 
 Hiid bleak mountains of the North, which could 
 
 infpire 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C» 13 
 
 infpire none but gloomy ideas, we now viewed, 
 with admiration and delight, the rich and fmd- 
 ing landfcapes on the coafts of Africa, and on the 
 fouthern Ihores of Europe. Our voyage through 
 the Mediterranean would have been quite delight- 
 ful, if the frequent calms had not rendered us 
 impatient, and difgufted us no lefs than the ftorms 
 of the North had wearied and diftrefled us. 
 
 At laft, after having often tacked about, we 
 arrived, on the 14th of May, in the road of 
 Marfeiiies, and cafl anchor near St Euilace, 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 Fajfage from Marfellles to Malta, and from Malta to Cou-^ 
 Jtanim:ple* 
 
 The city of Marfellles is fo well known, and 
 has been fo often defcribed, that it is unnecef- 
 fary to fpeak of the beauties of its fituation, or 
 of the multitude of villas all around it (b). 
 
 We found the harbour full of fhips belonging 
 to different nations, that durß: not venture out to 
 fea for fear of the Engiifli fleet, under Admi- 
 ral Saunders. Several of them were employed 
 in the Levant trade, on account of French, 
 merchants, and would have been good prizes to 
 the Engiifli. 
 
 Mr 
 
14 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Mr Von Haven having travelled through Ger- 
 many and France, joined us here. Here alfo wc 
 found three Daniüi merchant fhips, which were 
 to proceed to Smyrna, under the proteclion of 
 our fhip of war. 
 
 After viewing all the curiofities of Marfeilles, 
 v/e fet fail on the 3d of J une, in company with the 
 other three Danifh fhips. Although at peace with 
 the Englifh, yet v/e did not think ourfelves fafe 
 from being infulted by the fleets of that nation ; 
 as they infill upon going on board, and examin- 
 ing even neutral vefTels. Our Captain had de- 
 termined not to yield tofuch an infraction of the 
 rights of nations ; and accordingly prepared for 
 inaking a vigorous defence, if any infult of this 
 nature fhould be offered him. As we had expe6l- 
 ed, we fell in with Englifh fliips three differ- 
 ent times ; and they attempted to come on board 
 of us : But our Captain flrenuoufly refufing to 
 fubmit to any fuch indignity, they made off 
 with a bad grace, and fuffered us to continue 
 our route unmxolefled. 
 
 On the 14th of June, v/e arrived at Malta» 
 and call anchor in the grand harbour, almofl in 
 the middle of the city Valetta, or rather of the 
 feveral cities of which it is compofed. This ci- 
 ty has a fine appearance, when viewed from the 
 liabour : The houfes, with terraces on their 
 
 xoofs^ 
 
Foofs, and built againil fleep^ pointed rocks, Iiave 
 quite an oriental afpeil. 
 
 Ail the dwelling houfes, as well as the public 
 Buildings, are of hewn iloiie ; which is not fur- 
 frißng^ corßderiog how eafily the materials are 
 •f rcGured. The whole iile is one vafl rock^ co» 
 ¥ered with a very thiii layer of vegetable earth. 
 The rock is calcareous, and fo foft^ that^ when 
 tcikm out of the quarry^ it may be cut almoli like 
 
 ood. From this circumftancej. a part of the forti--» 
 Scations of the city have been hewn out in the 
 laatural ftone. 
 
 Of the public buildings, tlie moü foperb is 
 St John's church, which enjoys a coiiiiderable 
 ieverjue^,.and is entitled to a lhare of the prices 
 taken by the gallies of the Order. It has thus 
 been enriched with a great nimiber of Yaiuable 
 curiofitieSy. and^ among others^ a hiHre^ with a 
 chain of pure gold^ 500^000 crowns in value"^* 
 The riches of this church are faid to- es-ceed 
 Ihofe of the Kaaba at Mecca, and of the tomb of 
 Mahomet at Medina, 
 
 We were fhewn a Terkifhihip of war^ ©f 84 
 l^-uiis,. which had been feized and brought into- 
 äialta by Chnilian ßaves. The king of France 
 fcon after bought this fliip^ and reiiored it to 
 t$he Grand Sieoior, The Order erjesd the 
 Bac-re readily to this^ becaufe, £nce the coB»r 
 
 YSnticFiS 
 
l6 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 yenticns entered into hy the kings of France 
 and Naples with the Porte^ the Maltefe 
 iliips have feldom gone out on expeditions a- 
 gainft the Turks, But privateers ft ill go o-ut^ 
 and bring in their prizes to Malta. Thefe Chri- 
 ilian corfairs are commoniy provided with letters 
 or marque from the prince of Monaco, or fome 
 other Italian prince, of whofe exifterxce the 
 Turks are ignorant. And the inhabitants of the 
 £aft hence continue to regard Malta in the fame 
 light in which we coniider Tripoli and Algiers. 
 
 Mr For&ali and I went together to view the 
 ifland. It is only five German leagues in length^'% 
 and two and a half in breadthf . The inhabi- 
 tants live under a mild government ; and ac- 
 cordingly cultivate this bare rock with fuck 
 care, that it produces excellent fruits. The old 
 capital, Civita Vecchia, is every day more and 
 more deferted. 
 
 Near the city are fome very remarkable cata- 
 combs, or rather fubterraneous dwellings,cut in the 
 rock. They are foextenfive, that it has been found 
 proper to build up the entrances into feveral of 
 the paiTages, to prevent the curious from lohng 
 themfelves. The remains of public halls, and 
 of a miln, which are there obferveable, afford 
 - reafon for thinking, that the iflanders once lived 
 in thefe fubterraneous dwellings, or at leaft retir- 
 ed into them in times of danger (c). 
 
 We 
 
 * Or i6| Englifh miles,— t 8|- Englifli miles. 
 
( 
 
 m ARABIA, "ÜCe 
 
 17 
 
 We left Pvlalta on the 20th of June, and faw 
 llo land till the ^öth, when we entered the Ar- 
 chipelago. On the third of July, we entered the 
 road of Smyrna, where we ftaid till the loth. A 
 very fevere dyfentery, with which I had been at- 
 tacked, hindered me from feeing the city, other- 
 wife than at a diftance. 
 
 On the 13th, we reached the iße of Tenedos, 
 where we found the interpreter of Mr Gcrhler, 
 at that time our ambalTador at the Porte. He 
 brought us orders to quit the fhip^ and repair 
 in a fmall bark to Conftantinople. In this ifle 
 we faw Turks for the firft time ; and their lan- 
 guage and manners appeared to us fo extraordi- 
 nafy, that we began to defpair of eafe or plea-» 
 fure in our intercourfe with the people of the 
 Eaft. A man of diftinclion from the continent^ 
 however, fo far forgot the precepts of the Alco-- 
 ran, when he vifited us, that he feemed to have 
 come on board for no other purpofe than to 
 drink our Captain's wine. 
 
 We left the fhip on the 19th of July, but did 
 not land at Conftantinople till the 30th. We 
 went immediately to Pera, where we were re- 
 ceived by Mr Gcehler, and all lodged in his 
 houfe ; a piece of kind attention which contri^ 
 buted greatly to my recovery. 
 
 Vol. I 
 
 G 
 
 Chap, 
 
i8 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Chap. IIL 
 
 Conßanihiopk» 
 
 As we were in hade to reach Egypt, we fei 
 out from Conftantinople immediately after my 
 recovery. I did not, therefore, fee the capital 
 of the Ottoman empire at this time : But, on 
 my return from Arabia, I flaid longer in that 
 city ; and I fhall fet down here a few obferva- 
 tions which I then made, efpecially as they 
 feem to have been overlooked by moil other tra- 
 vellers. 
 
 Conftantinople is undeniably a city of very 
 coniiderable extent : Yet Kara-Agadfch, Gala-- 
 ta, Pera, Dolma-Bagdjche, &c. are not to be 
 confidered as fo many fuburbs : They are dif^ 
 tin6l cities, divided by the Gulf from the capi- 
 tal. Ejiib is the only fuburb belonging to it. 
 And if we take in only the city of Conftanti- 
 nople, and this fuburb, it is conftderably infe- 
 rior in extent to either London or Paris. I dürft 
 not meafure it geometrically : but, counting my 
 fteps as I vv^alked round it, I found its circum- 
 ference to be 2600 paces. 
 
 Conftantinople appears larger than it really 
 is : for, as the houfes rife upon the fides of hills, 
 they prefent the-mfelves in the form of an am- 
 phitheatre^ 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 19 
 
 phitheatre, and thus appear t© fpread over a 
 wide extent of ground. Towards the fea, how- 
 ever, the city coniifts of new houfes, and is re- 
 ceiving continual additions. Of late, they have 
 even encroached upon the harbour and filled up 
 fome part of it, in order to gain ground for 
 new buildings. 
 
 It would be hard to fix the number of the in- 
 habitants : It is ahvays fiiated too high, from a 
 miftake incident to travellers, in eftimating the 
 population of the cities of the Eaft. They re - 
 gard thofe cities as equally populous, in propor- 
 tion to their extent, with thofe of Europe. But 
 the houfes in the Eaft are low. Perfons in eafy 
 circumftances, chufe to have a large area behind 
 their houfes. The palaces of the great, with 
 theirgardens and feraglios, occupy much ground. 
 
 It is not lefs a miftake to judge of the popu* 
 lation of thofe cities, by the numbers of people 
 who are conftantly bufy in the ftreets. The 
 jealoufy of the people of the Eaft lenders them un- 
 willing to receive perfons with whom they have 
 bufmefs, in their houfes. On this account, the 
 artifans Vvork without doors, and fpend the 
 whole day in open places. The ftreets are full 
 of joiners, ironmongers, goldfniiths, jewellers, 
 ^c. bufy in the exercife of their feveral trades. 
 Thoufands of workmen come in the mornings, 
 work all the day in the ftreets of Conftantiiiopk^ 
 C 2 and 
 
20 
 
 NIEBUHIl's TRAVELS 
 
 and return in the evening to their houfes in the 
 cöuntry. If the fame modes of life prevailed in 
 Europe, and the greater number of the artifans 
 and workmen about our great cities lived in the 
 country, thefe would then appear much more po- 
 pulous than at prefent. 
 
 Whatever be its population, Conftantinople 
 exhibits a delightful profped. Its harbour, one 
 of the fmell in the world, is always full of vef- 
 fels. The medley of fuperb mofques and pala.. 
 ces, gardens and trees of all forts, which the ci^ 
 ty difplays, appears remarkably llriking to a 
 ftranger. But within, the arrangement and ap- 
 pearance of the city, correfpond not to its fplen- 
 dour when feen from a dillance. The itreets are 
 almoil all narrow, dirty, and irregular ; the 
 houfes are of wood, flight, and ill built, and ap- 
 pear more like coops for birds than dwellings 
 for men. Of the palaces built of llone, nothing 
 
 to be feen but the high walls that furround 
 them. In this city, it is equally dangerous to 
 live in ftone and in wooden houfes. In the for» 
 nier, one is liable to be buried in ruins, by earth- 
 quakes; in the latter, to be burnt, by the breaking 
 out of a fire :— Thefe tvv^o fpecies of awful e- 
 vents being equally frequent at Conilantinople. 
 
 The feraglio of the Grand Signier is a vafr, 
 but very irregular edifice. I was not permitted 
 to approach farther into it than the cuter court. 
 But, vhat I mw was enough to give me a very 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C, 
 
 high idea of the reft. I could learn nothing 
 concerning this gate (porta) of the feraglio, that 
 might ferve to account for the origin of the ve- 
 ry, improper denomination of Ottoman Porte^ 
 which is applied in Europe to the Court of the 
 Grand Signior. Kapu in the Turkifli language, 
 fignifies both a gate and a palace. But, when 
 they fpeak of going to the Porte at Conftanti- 
 nople, the palace of the Grand Vinr is always 
 meant, where all bufinefs is tranfa6led, as well 
 what regards the internal regulation of the em- 
 pire, as the negociations with foreign mini- 
 Hers. 
 
 The city is plentifully fupplicd with Vvater^ 
 from thvtt Beuts or refervoirs, htuated at the dif- 
 tance of three German league?. A Beut is a re~ 
 fervoir in a valley, into which water is conducl- 
 ed from the higher grounds circumjacent, and 
 there confined by a ftrong wall. The water col- 
 leded in this manner is conveyed into the town 
 by aqueduds, which have been conftrucled at a 
 vaft expence, in coufequence of the ground be- 
 ing fo unequal. It is not to the Greek empe- 
 rors that the Turks owe thefe noble works. 
 One of them was raifed by Sult^in Mahfnoud ^ 
 and another upon the north ßde, with the bran- 
 ches communicating with it, was but lately con- 
 ilrucled by Sultan Muftapha, who was on the 
 throne when I was at Conftantinople. As this 
 
 water 
 
22 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 water cannot be equally diftributed through the 
 whole city, on account of the inequality of the 
 ground, water-houfes are eilablillied in proper 
 places, from which it is ferved out to every per- 
 fou gratis, Oppoiite to the outer gate of the 
 feraglio, is a houfe fplendidly decorated, where 
 perfons paid by the public, prefent water to the 
 paßengers, in vefiels of gilt copper. 
 
 This capital of a great empire is almoil de- 
 fiitute of means of defence. A double wall^ 
 and a ditch nearly filled up, are all its fortifica- 
 tions. The Turks truil for the fecurity of the 
 city to four caftles, built upon the two channels 
 which terminate in the fea of Marmora, and 
 communicating one of them with the Archipe- 
 lago, and the other with the Black Sea. Thofe 
 caftles, known by the name of the Dardanelles, 
 are but of little moment. But the channels are 
 fo narrow and crooked, that a fleet which were 
 to attempt to fail up either, even with the moft 
 favourable wind, could hardly efcape being funk 
 by the difcharge of the batteries. The bed 
 mode of attacking Conftantinople by fea, would 
 be to block up the mouth of the channels, 
 and thus deprive the city of the fupplies of pro- 
 yifions which it receives from the Archipelago. 
 
 The city of Galata, fnrrounded with a fi:rong 
 wall, and rifing upon a fieep height over againfl 
 Conftantinople, is extremely populous. All the 
 
 Europeaii 
 
iN ARABIA, Wc, 
 
 1» 
 
 European traders, and many of the Eaftern Chrif- 
 tians live there. Pera is a fuburb to Galata. 
 In it refide the ambafladors of fuch Chriltiaii 
 powers as fend public minillers to the Porte, 
 The deputies which come by turns from Algiers, 
 Tunis, Tripolis, and Ragufa, lodge at Conftan- 
 tinople. But, the Turks confider not thefe de- 
 puties as ambafladors ; nor yet the Kapu Kiajas^ 
 who manage the affairs of the princes of Wala- 
 chia, and Moldavia, 
 
 The Sultan has many houfes of pleafure, both 
 in the neighbourhood of the capital, änd on the 
 lliores on the channel of the Black Sea, But 
 the reigning Sultan goes no where but to Ka?'n 
 Agadfch, the gloomy, folitary, fituation of whicli 
 fuits the melancholy complexion of his mind. 
 He is fuiTering the others to fall into ruins : He 
 has caufed feveral of them to be pulled dov/n, 
 and the materials to be employed in building 
 public baths and mofques. 
 
 The Greeks have three and twenty churches 
 in Conftantinople, and the Armenians three ; 
 excluflve of thofe which the tv/o nations have in. 
 the fuburbs. A clergyman refides at Pera, on 
 vrhom the Pope confers the pompous title cf 
 Archbiiliop, placing him at the head of a great 
 many imaginary bifliops. By the laws, no ftrange 
 feci is fuflered to build houfes of prayer in 
 the capital. Yet, feveral fedls hold their 
 
 meetings 
 
24 ki^ibuhr's travels 
 
 meetings therq, without being checked hy Go« 
 vernment. 
 
 Chap. IV, 
 
 yyage from Conßantlnople to Alexandria, 
 
 AssooN as I was fo much recovered as to be 
 able to travel, we prepared tofet out. At Alex- 
 andria we might have ventured to appear in 
 the European drefs ; as the inhabitants of that 
 city are accuftomed to fee a great number of 
 Franks, But, through the reft of Egypt, and 
 in Arabia, our drefs, confifting of fo many pie- 
 ces, and fo different from the beautiful fimplicitj 
 of the eaftern drefs, might have expofed us to 
 inconveniencies. We therefore refolved to af- 
 fume the Turkifli drefs ; and having obtained, 
 by means of Mr Goehler, a paffport from the 
 Sultan, with letters of recommendation, we cm- 
 barked on board a veifel belonging to Dolcigno, 
 We fet fail on the iith of September, and on 
 the 15th' reached the Dardanelles. All veflels 
 leaving Conftantinople are vifited by an officer 
 of the cuftoms, whofe buiinefs is to prevent the 
 defertion of flaves, and the defrauding of the re- 
 venue of the eftabliibed dues. 
 
 Durhig 
 
IN ARAL 1 A, ^C. 
 
 During the ftay, which, in confequence of 
 this., we were obliged to make before one of the 
 caftles, called Hum. Kalla^ I was confirmed in 
 the opinion which I had before taken up of the 
 inutility of thofe Boghas H{ffar, or Dardanelles. 
 Every thing about them is negleifled : cannons^ 
 of an enormous bore, charged w^ith ftones, lie 
 ufelefs on the ground. But I obferved fome- 
 thing elfe, which w^ould ,ferve to retard a neet 
 advancing to attack Conltantinople ; the fhal- 
 lows between that city and the Dardanelles. 
 
 On the 17th of September, we again hoifted 
 our fails, and palling the iiles of the Archipelago, 
 cad anchor on the 2i{l in the harbour of Rhodes. 
 We there fell in with the Captain Pacha, with 
 fome Ihips of war. The iilanders are not fond 
 of being vifited by the imperial fleets ; both be- 
 caufe they are expelled to make prefents to the 
 admiral, and becaufe the failors are infufierably 
 infolent. 
 
 We faw an inftance of the fear which thofs 
 undifciplined crews every where infpire. When 
 we landed, we went immediately to the houfe 
 of the Danifh Conful ; but found his doors 
 Üiut, to keep out the failors ; and on account of 
 our Turkiüi drefs, could not obtain admiffion^ 
 till we met with an honefl Capuchin, who knew 
 us for Europeans, and introduced us. The Con- 
 ful fent his interpreter to accompany us in fome 
 
 Vol, 1. ' C ^ littk 
 
26 
 
 NIEBÜHK^S TRAVELS 
 
 little excurfions, which curioüty induced tis to 
 make through the illand, 
 
 Th© city of Rhodes ftill exhibits feveral things 
 to remind the traveller that it was once inhabit, 
 ed by the knights of the order of St John, who* 
 upon their expulfion hence by the Turks, were 
 fixed at Malta. It contains a number of noble 
 old buildings, fome of which are decorated with 
 the armorial bearings of fome of the moft ancient 
 families in Europe, But the palace which be- 
 longed to the Grand Mafter of the Order, is now 
 falling into ruins. The Turks negled: the for-= 
 tifications • although they might know their 
 importance, from having befieged the illand fo 
 long before they could make themfelves mafters 
 of it* But^ notwithftanding this negledl^ Rhodes 
 is one of the befl fortified places in the Ottoman 
 empire, and the Turks think it impregnable. 
 
 In this city we had the curiofity, for the firft 
 time, to go to dine in a Turkifii inn. Dinner 
 was ferved up to us in the open fiireet, upon a 
 large fiione feat, connected with the kitchen-wall : 
 the meat was in a coarfe, ill-fafliioned, earthen 
 plate ; and we eat it without knife or fork. We 
 had an excellent dinner, and were charged high. 
 We went thence to drink fome wine at a Jew's 
 houfe, who valued himfelf on fupplying it $p all 
 fi:rangers. He had two handfome girls with 
 Mm, whom he called his daughters, and who 
 
 fpoke 
 
IN ARABIA, iSc, 
 
 ^7 
 
 fpoke Italian well. Our entertainmtm at his 
 houfe coll us much dearer than oilr Turkifli 
 meal. 
 
 There are a great many Greeks in the ifle of 
 Rhodes, but they are not fufFered to live in the 
 city. MelTrs Von Haven and Cramer witnelTed 
 an inftance of the ill treatment which that peo- 
 ple fuffer from their conquerors. My compa- 
 nions had gone with fome Greeks to vifit their 
 biihop, in a village near the city. While they 
 were with him, fome Turkifh nmficians made 
 their appearance, and inlifled upon entertaining 
 the good prelate with mufic, which he had no 
 delire to hear. Although he refufed their con- 
 cert, the muficians would be paid ; and did 
 not retire without infiilting him and his com- 
 pany. 
 
 We fet fail early in the morning of the 2 2d 
 of September. Hitherto, we had failed near 
 the coafts, and among iflands ; and it would 
 confequently have been vain to make obfer- 
 vations on the courfe we failed. But, in the 
 open £ea, we had foon an opportunity of remark- 
 ing the ignorance of the Turks in every thing 
 relative to navigation. The mailer of our fhip 
 had compaffes and feveral inflruments, but knew 
 not what ufe to make of them. They were pro- 
 bably apart of the plunder which he had taken 
 in fome Chriftian Ihip : for the Dokignots often 
 
 G 2 give 
 
mEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 give themfeives out for Algerines, and take Eu- 
 ropean iliips belonging to powers at peace with 
 the Porte. In the courfe of our voyage, our 
 Bolcignot was afraid of being taken himfelf : 
 for it w^as reported that the Maltefe, or rather 
 fome privateers, with letters of marque from 
 fome Italian prince, were at that time fcowring 
 thofe feas. V/e could not have made a glorious 
 defence ; our fhip was a heavy failer, and over- 
 laden, with only a few rufty guns not properly 
 
 mounted(DV 
 
 Our ikilfül Gaptain held for Alexandria, bj 
 chance. Luckily for us, a very favourable wind 
 fprung up, and carried us ftraight into the har- 
 bour in the day ; otherwife, I know not how we 
 eould have efcaped the greateft dangers. The 
 Ihores of Egypt are fo low, that they cannot be 
 feen from a diftance, and a fliip approaching, 
 without knov^dng her courfe, can hardly fail 
 run a-ground. 
 
 Our Captain, his fecretary, and two pilots, fpoke 
 Italian tolerably well. The fecretary had been 
 at Venice, in different other Italian cities^ and 
 yen at Vienna, where he received the folio wing in-= 
 formation. When we afked him. if there were 
 any Pagans in the Turkifh empire, he replied ; 
 ^' No ; but, in Germany and Hungary there 
 
 are : they are called Lutherans, and have no 
 f notions of God and his prophets." At ano- 
 
IN ARABIA, Wc. 
 
 ther time, when the truth of the Chriftian Re- 
 ligion was mentioned, he rofe in a fury, and ex- 
 claimed : They who believe in any other di- 
 " vinity, but God only, are oxen and alTes." 
 After reafoning fo forcibly, he went off without 
 waiting to hear any reply. 
 
 This zealous fecretary was at the fame time 
 Imam, or almoner of the veiTeL The Imam's 
 bufinefs is to dired: the crew in their evening 
 prayers, which the Mahometans perform regu- 
 larly after wafliing. The Imam then fpreads 
 his carpet, kneels with his face tov^^ards Mecca, 
 and mutters his prayers, proflrating himfelf from 
 time to tim.e, and crying Allah Akhar, God is 
 Great. The aifembly repeat his words, and re~ 
 gularly imitate his motions and geftures. One 
 thing effential, is, to put the thumbs behind the 
 ears, to mark the perfecl: abftraclion of the mind 
 from all worldly cares, and the elevation of the 
 folil towards heaven, 
 
 Befide this public evening prayer, the Maho- 
 metans are directed by law to fay other prayers, 
 in the courfe of tieir avocations, whenever they 
 find themfelves moil difpoied to the duty. They 
 make no difficulty of difplaying their humility 
 and devotion before fpedators. I was at firil 
 afraid to diilurb them by my prefence, and at- 
 tempted to retire ; but molt of them prefTed me 
 to remain and join them. It is only the info- 
 
 lence 
 
/ 
 
 3^ niebuhr's travels 
 
 knee 3f the populace, that hinders Chriftians 
 from entering mofques, or witneffing their ads 
 of devotion. 
 
 In our fhip, which was too full, the Muful- 
 man pafTengers were feated on the decks. We 
 had hired the captain's apartment, with ano- 
 ther long room adjoining, in order to feparate 
 ourfelves from the Turks. In a cabin above us 
 were lodged fome flaves intended for the market, 
 girls who had received a good education in the 
 Turkifh mode, arid were deftined for the Haram 
 ©f fome grandee. Mr Forlkal and I, one day, 
 w^hile w^e were in our chamber, overheard a fe- 
 male voice, and fet our heads to the window, to 
 obferve whence it came. Thofe flaves obferving 
 lis to be ftrangers, cried out, and fcolded us. 
 But one of them foothed the reft. We held out 
 to them fruits and fugar ; and they put down 
 their handkerchiefs to receive what they liked. 
 As v/e and they had no common language to 
 converfe in, v/e converfed by ligns. The young- 
 eft addreifed ^ few words to m.e, feverai differ- 
 ent times. To knov/ their purport, we alked 
 the clerk of the fliip, to explain the meaning of a 
 greatmanyTurkifhv/ordsandphrafes,andatlength 
 came to underftand, that the girl had warned us 
 to beware of appealing at the window, except 
 when the crev/ were at prayers. Thofe females 
 became at laft fo familiar v/ith us, as to give us 
 
 notice 
 
iN ARABIA, ^C. 
 
 notice by knocking at the window, whenever 
 they w^ere alone. This imprudent frolic amuf- 
 ed us a few moments ; but it might have occa- 
 ßoned us much ferious trouble ; and w^e came 
 afterw^ards to underftand, wiiat extreme folly it 
 is to make the llighteft acquaintance with Turk- 
 ifli women. 
 
 In the evening of the 2,6th of September, we 
 arrived at Alexandria, and anchored in the great 
 harbour, which Chriftian fliips are not permit^ 
 ted to do ; they are obliged to anchor in the 
 fmall harbour, w^hich is very dangerous. The 
 paßengers w^ent immediately on fliore ; but the 
 ilaves remained till night, and were carried away 
 with the utmoil fecrecy. 
 
 Eight of the crew had died fcmewhat fudden- 
 ly in the courfe of the voyage ; v/hich made us 
 afraid that the plague might be among us. Hap« 
 pily our fears proved vain; for our phyfician, 
 who vifited feverai of thofe perfons, w^hile they 
 ■were ill, found no fymptoni of peflilential infec^ 
 tion among them(E). 
 
 SECTION 
 
3^ 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 ÖF EGYPT IN GENERAL. 
 
 Ghap. t. 
 
 Of the City of Alexandria 
 
 Alexandria, or Ecandria, as tlife Turlcs and 
 Arabs call it, is lituate upon a narrow ifthmus, 
 between a peninfula and the walls of the ancient 
 city, and dividing the two harbours. The 
 ground on which the modern city Hands, feems 
 to have arifen out of the waters. Although long 
 fmce diyefled of its ancient fplendour, yet the 
 remains of the magnificent buildings which it 
 once poUeiTed,— palaces, temples, and mofques, 
 ■with a plentiful intermixture of palm-trees,— 
 give this city an afpecl of beauty and dignity 3; 
 when viewed from the harbour. 
 
 Its antiquities, and the remains of its ancient 
 fplendour, have been defcribed by fo many tra- 
 vellers, that I fhall barely infert a few remarks 
 which feem to have efcaped the notice of o- 
 thers. 
 
 According 
 
IN AkABiA, 
 
 33 
 
 According to the defcriptions which Greek 
 and Latin v^riters have left of old Alexandria, 
 that citj inuil have been of vafl extent. But 
 its ruins, in their prefent ftate, do not mark its 
 original circumference. The Mahometans ia 
 general, and efpecially the inhabitants of Alex-* 
 andria, break down the fined monuments of an- 
 tiquity, to employ the fragments in the moll 
 wretched flruclures imaginable. Whenever they 
 are at any lofs for materials for building, they 
 fcrupie not to dig up the foundation-ftones of the 
 ancient walls and palaces. If one happens to 
 find a beautiful column in his garden, he will 
 rather make mill-fiones of it, than preferve it. 
 
 There fi:ill exifts one noble remain in the city, 
 v\;hich could neither be broken nor carried a- 
 way : — The Oheliß of Cleopatra^ a fingle piece 
 of red granite. Although a part of its bafe be 
 fi,mkinto the earth, it ftill rifes above ground to 
 the height of fixty two feet ; the circumference 
 of the bafe is feven feet and a half. It is infcrib- 
 ed with feme ancient charaders, engraven an 
 inch deep; but the modern Egyptians cannot read 
 them. 
 
 Another monument, the famous pillar of Pom-- 
 fey, owes alfo its prefervation to its bulk. It 
 was ereded in ancient Alexandria, but ftands 
 at prefent, at the diilance of a quarter of 
 a league from the New Town. As travellers 
 
 Vol. I. D difler 
 
34 NIE.BUHR's TRAVELS' 
 
 differ in their accounts of its height, I thought 
 proper to make a careful meafurement of it. 
 The column meafured eighty nine feet, exclu- 
 -live of the bafe, which is five feet high. It con- 
 lifts of three blocks of red granite. Norden law 
 its bafe in a fhattered condition ; but it has 
 been lince repaired, by a perfon of the name of 
 Mohammed FJchurhatfchu There are fome a- 
 mong the Turks, lefs hoilile than the generality 
 to the remains of antiquity(E). 
 
 Many catacombs, or fubterranean apartments, 
 cut in the rocks, are to be feen in the neighbour- 
 hood of this city. I examined thofe excava- 
 tions ; there can be no doubt of their having 
 been ufed chiefly as tombs. There are fome, 
 however, which I fhould rather fuppofe to have 
 been granaries. What are called Pompey's 
 baths are likev/ife grottoes cut in the fame rock : 
 which is a foft calcareous flone,like that at Mal- 
 ta, and may be very eaiily wrought. 
 . New Alexandria owes its prefent Hate to the 
 Arabs, who inclofed it with a very thick wall, 
 near fifty feet high. This v/all, which is becom- 
 ing ruinous, and a fmall fort upon the peninfu-. 
 la, with a garrifon of fifty foldiers, are all the 
 means that the city polTeßes for its defence. 
 Eut its Governor depends on the Facha of Kahi-- 
 ra ; and, of confequence, not on the ariilocracy 
 of the Beys but on the Grand Signier. 
 
 The 
 
IN ARABIA, v5'f. ~ 35 
 
 The fineft building in the city is a mofque, 
 which, in the time of the Greek -empire, was a 
 church dedicated to St Athanafius. It is ve- 
 ry large, and ornamented vvith noble columns. 
 A great number of Greek manufcripts are ftill 
 faid to be preierved within it. But, as no Chrif- 
 tian dare examine any thing within a mofque, 
 I faw only its outfide (f). 
 
 The CoUs have a Church dedicated to St 
 
 J. 
 
 Mark, in w^hich they fhow the tomb of that E- 
 vangelift ; but it has never been opened, lince 
 fome priefts of the Roman Communion made an 
 attempt to carry away the head of the Saint* 
 1 know not how this tradition is to be reconcil- 
 ed with that of the Venetians, Vv^ho pretend to 
 be in polTeflion of this precious relick. The 
 Catholic priefts, indeed, boaft of having out- 
 witted the Copts and Mahometans, by decollat- 
 ing the Saint, packing up his head properly, and 
 making it pafs for falted pork, that it might not 
 be infpecled by the Officers of the Cuflom^s. The 
 Turks have abfolutely forbidden the exporta- 
 tion of dead bodies or mummies ; fo that it is 
 no eafy matter, in thefedays, to convey the bodies 
 of the ancient inhabitants out of Egypt. How- 
 ever, as the cuftomhoufe of Alexandria is at 
 prefent under the dire(5tion of Jews, we found 
 means to procure one mummy, and carry it on 
 board an Italian vefTel. But wx v>^ere obliged 
 D % to 
 
36 
 
 KiEB^UHR's TRAVELS 
 
 to return it ; for all the Italian failors threaten- 
 ed to leave the ihip, if the Captain did not fend 
 away that Pagan carcafe, which could not fail 
 to bring fome mifchief upon them. 
 
 Alexandria has fallen by degrees from its 
 grandeur, population, and v^^ealth. The filling 
 up of the branch of the Nile, upon which this 
 city ftands, and v^/hich is now no longer naviga- 
 ble» is what has chiefly contributed to its de- 
 cline. It is however cleanfed from time to time, 
 as it fupplies the city with fpft water, which 
 could be no where elfe obtained. The magni- 
 ficent refervoirs of old Alexandria ftill remain ; 
 they vv^ere intended to contain v^ater for the ufe 
 cf the city, through the whole year ; which was 
 received into them at the time of the overflow- 
 ing of the Nile, 
 
 This city might be in a more flourifhing con- 
 -dition ; did not difadvantages of all forts concur 
 to deprefs it. Its inhabitants appear to have a 
 natural genius for com^merce ; were it not check- 
 ed by the malignant influence of the Govern- 
 ment. I have no where met with fo many peo- 
 ple who could fpeak the Europeati languages, 
 and even thofe of the North of Europe, corred« 
 ly. The inhabitants of Alexandria are in ufe 
 to enter as failors on board Chriftian fhips ; 
 and when they have feen the world, and learned 
 fome langua^esj they return home, and become 
 
 couriers^ 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C, 
 
 37 
 
 «:oiiriers, or interpreters to tlie nations tliey 
 have ferved. The Mabometans have com- 
 monly a great averfion at living among Chrif- 
 tlans, becaafe tliey cannot join in the ceremo. 
 nies of their religion. The modern Egyp- 
 tians, being lefs attached than the other MuM- 
 mans to the peculiarities of their religion and 
 manners, are fitter for commercial intercourfe 
 with the Europeans. 
 
 The trade of Alexandria is, notwithilanding» 
 very trifling ; although aim oft all the nations of 
 Egypt have confuls here. But, as m.oil part of 
 thofe articles of traffic which are im.ported into 
 into Egypt, pafs by Alexandria, the cuftoms 
 afford aconfiderable fum to the Sultan annually. 
 
 The Arabic is the ordinary language of the 
 rative inhabitants, both here and through ail 
 Egypt. Europeans, unflsiilled in Arabic, fpeak 
 Italian, which is ftill not a little ufed in thefe 
 countries (g). 
 
 Several tribes of Vv^andering Arabs are conti- 
 nually roaming about through Lov/ er Egypt ; 
 and often approach near to Alexandria. The 
 inhabitants pay fome contributions. But thofe 
 troops pillage the country, fo that Government 
 is obliged to fend foldiers to reduce them, or 
 drive them into the more remote provinces. Dur- 
 ing our ft ay at Alexandria, fome hundreds of thofe 
 jobbers encamped within a quarter ^of a league 
 
 of 
 
3S niesuhr's travels 
 
 ©f the city. They diftreßed the hiifbandmenj 
 and plundered the travellers. 
 
 Thofe Arabs, one day, exhibited a fcene 
 ivhich we could fee from the terrace on the 
 roof of our houfe. According to their cuftom, 
 a great number had flipped into the city, one by 
 one, to avoid frightening the inhabitants. One 
 of their Schiechs, to try fome powder and ball, 
 which he had juft bought in afliop, difcharged his 
 piece againll an oppoiite houfe : The proprietor 
 complaining, the Schiech treated him as he 
 would one of his own fubjeds in the defert. The 
 people of the city gathered round them, and 
 were preparing to revenge the infult offered to 
 their fellow-citizen. Some Arabs ran in to de<= 
 fend their chief ; and the inhabitants gathered 
 in greate r numberson their lide. The quarrel 
 produced a combat, which began with a volley 
 of flones, and ended with the difcharge of guns. 
 The Arabs, at laft, retired out of the city, leav- 
 ing feveral of their number dead, and feveral 
 prifoners. Next day, their camp beiieged the 
 city, and carried away the cattle of the inhabi- 
 tants from the pafcures : But, within two days, 
 peace was reflored, and the booty and prifoners 
 delivered up on both fides. 
 
 The excurfions and rudenefs of thefe Arabians 
 were not the only circumftances that obliged me 
 to reprefs my curiofity. The ftupidity and ig- 
 norance 
 
IN ARABIA, 'iSc. 
 
 39 
 
 norance of the native inhabitants, who viewed 
 my meafuring apparatus with diftruft and fear, 
 were not lefs unfavourable to the fuccefs of my 
 enquiries and obfervations. A Turkifh merchant, 
 obferving me diredl my inftrument towards the 
 city, had the curioiity to look into the giafs, 
 and was furprifed to fee a tower turned uplide 
 down. He immediately fpread a report, that I 
 wi ts come to overturn the city : It was mention- 
 e i to the Governor ; and my janilTary would no 
 longer v^alk out with me, when I propofed car- 
 rying my infcruments with me. Near a village 
 of the Delta, an honell peafant paid great atten- 
 tion to my operations, as I was taking different 
 angles. To fnew him fomething curious, I made 
 him look through the fame glafs. He was greatly 
 alarmed te fee the village, to which he belonged, 
 Handing uplide down. My fervant told him, 
 that Government were offended with that vil- 
 village, and had fent me to deftroy it. He in- 
 fcantly intreated me to wait but a few moments, 
 that he might have time to fave his wife and his 
 cow. He then ran in great hafte tov^ards his 
 houfe ^ and I v/ent again on board my boat. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 V 
 
iSflEBUHR's TRAV2LS 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 ^ ''y^-S^ /r^;?? Alexandria io Roßtfa, 
 
 The European travellers wlio have vifited E-^ 
 gypt, having generally paffed from Alexandria 
 to Kahira by Rafchid, and upon the Nile ; we 
 were tempted to prefer the way by land. But^ 
 the country being infefted by the wandering A- 
 rabs, as I have already mentioned, we found our 
 defign to be inipradicable. Mr Forilial, v/hen 
 travelling the country upon another occafion, 
 found that our fears h^d not been groundlefs. 
 He was entirely ilripped by thofe Arabs, who, 
 with a generofity very uncommon with them, 
 left him his draw ers. 
 
 In winter, the paiTage between Alexandria 
 and Rafchid is fo dangerous, that many vefiel^ 
 are loft in the Boghas^ or mouth of the Nile.. 
 Although that river was not yet greatly fallen, 
 our flat boat was feveral times a-ground. The 
 fl<:ipper excufed thefe accidents, by faying, that 
 the bed of the river changed frequently in 
 thefe parts. The num.ber of lhallows upon the 
 coaft makes the Egyptians very eafy with refpedi: 
 to the approach of hofcile fleets ; and they are 
 fuffering the old forts on the banks of the Nile 
 to fall into ruinsg 
 
 After 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 4% 
 
 After ftruggling with contrary winds, we ar=. 
 rived, on the 2d of November, at Rofetta, as 
 it is called in Europe, or Rafchid, in the lan- 
 guage of the country. This city is of a confme- 
 rable lize, and ftands upon an eminence, whence 
 opens a charming proiped: of the courfe of the 
 Nile, and a part of the Delta. It ferves as a 
 llaple for the trade between Alexandria and Ca- 
 iro^. The boats of the latter city proceed no 
 farther than to Rofetta, where they lade with 
 goods brought by the veiTels of Alexandria, 
 which never advance up the river. For this 
 reafon, the French and Venetian confuls refide 
 at Rofetta, as well as feveral European mer- 
 chants, who m^anage the conveyance of goods 
 |)elonging to their friends. 
 
 Near this city are Ihewn what are thought to 
 be the ruins of the ancient Campus, Laft year, 
 twenty beautiful marble columns were dug up 
 there, which have been conveyed to Cairo, 
 What is more certain, is, that in ancient times, 
 and probably even fo late as the lixth century, 
 there was another branch of the Nile, palling 
 by thofe ruins, and difcharging itfelf into the 
 fea, at Abukir. But it is now filled up with 
 fand, which the wind carries about in great 
 quantities in thefe fandy countries. 
 
 The Europeans fpeak much of the politenefs 
 of the inhabitants of Rofetta. Our ftay in that 
 
 Vol. L E city 
 
 * Or Kahira* 
 
4'2 NIEBUHR'S TRAVELS 
 
 city miglit, therefore, have been more agreeahle 
 than in any of the other cities of Egypt. But 
 we had no time to lofe, and were in hafte to 
 reach Cairo« 
 
 Chap. IIL 
 
 Voyage from Rofetta to CairCo 
 
 We left Rofetta on the 6th of November, and 
 two days after pafTed Fue, once a comiderable 
 city, and the ftaple of the trade between Alex-' 
 andria and Cairo. ' The canal between Alex= 
 andria and Fue is no longer navigable ; and 
 Fue entirely deferted. ' The Nile carries fo much' 
 of the foil from the lands, that it gradually fills 
 up the canals ; although they are cleanfed from 
 time to time ; but in a fuperficial enough man- 
 ner. The earth taken out of the canals forms 
 thofe mounts which are obferved in the Delta^ 
 änd which appear ftrange in io flat a country as 
 Egypt. 
 
 In this feafon, when the country is all ver- 
 dant, it is very pleafant to fail up the Nile. A 
 number of villages are fcattered along each fide 
 of the river. The houfes arc indeed low, and 
 built of unburnt bricks ; but, intermixed as they 
 axe with palm trees^ and pigeon-houfes of a fm« 
 
 gular 
 
IM ARABIA, ^ 43 
 
 gular form, thej prefent to the eye of the ftran- 
 ■ger, an vincommon and pleanng profpecl. Near 
 feveral cf thefe villages are feen large heaps of 
 the ruins of ancient cities. 
 
 The navigation of the Nile would be ilill 
 more agreeable, were it not infefted by pirates- 
 But, when a great number of people are oil 
 board of a veflel, they keep on their guard ; 
 they difcharge a few fnots from time to time, to 
 fhew, that they are provided with fire arms ; 
 this keeps the robbers in awe, and renders the 
 paßage lefs dangerous. There is much m^ore 
 danger in trufting to a Reis, or m-ailer of a vef- 
 fel, with whom you are unacquainted^ who may 
 favour tile robbers, and fhare their plunder^ 
 Whole villages are faid to follov/ this trade ; 
 and for this reaion the boats never ftop in their 
 neighbourhood. The inhabitants on the banks 
 of the Nile are very dexterous in the art of 
 fwimming, v/hich they frequently exercife in 
 fcealing from the boats, if not Vv^ith open force^ 
 jet with a degree of addrefs and audacity wor-- 
 thy of the moil noted pick-pockets. 
 
 Some Turks related to me a reccn; inflance of the 
 addrefs and audacity of thofe robbers, or rather 
 thieves. The fervants of a Pacha, newly arriv« 
 ed, caught one of them in the ad, feized himr 
 and brought him before the Pacha. He threat-- 
 ened him with, inflant death but the rogue 
 E -2 ^ af^ed 
 
44 
 
 JSflEBUHR's TR AVE is 
 
 aiked leave to exhibit one of his tricks ; faying^ 
 that he hoped, his dexterity might procure his 
 pardon. He obtained leave. Then coliedling 
 feveral efFed:s in the tent, he wrapped them up^ 
 coolly, in the mode in which the Egyptians 
 wrap up their clothes when they are to pafs a 
 river. After playing fome time with this par- 
 cel, he put it on his head, threw himfelf into 
 the Nile, and, before the Turks were fo far re- 
 covered from their furprife, as to level their 
 mufquets at him, was fafe on the oppofite bank. 
 
 Through all Lower Egypt, I faw no croco- 
 diles in the two great branches of the Nile up 
 which I failed. The Egyptians fancy, that in 
 ihe Mikkias near Cairo, there is a talifman, the 
 virtue of which hinders thofe amphibious ani- 
 mals from defcending lower in the river (h). 
 
 On the loth of November, we reached Bidak ; 
 which may be confidered as the Port of Cairo^ 
 as all boats that come by the Nile difcharge 
 their paffengers and cargoes at this place. 
 
« 
 
 IN ARABIA, ^C. 
 
 45 
 
 Chap. IY. 
 
 From Cairo to Damietta^ 
 
 Having, in advancing to Cairo, examined one 
 öf the great branches of the Nile, I was defirous 
 of feeing the other between Cairo and Damiet- 
 ta. The maps of this part of Kgy^t, called, 
 both by the ancients, and by the modern Euro- 
 peans, the Delta, are extremely defedive. I 
 was defirous of fupplying their defeds, and cor- 
 reding their errors. My map of the courfe of 
 the Nile, exhibits my geographical obfervations 
 upon this part of the country, and may at the 
 fame time ferve to dired the reader, who chufes 
 to trace my route with his eye.- 
 
 I was prevented by the rains and other eir- 
 cumflances, from accomplifliing my intention, 
 till the month of May, next year. But the de- 
 lay turned out to my advantage. I gained 
 fome knowledge of the language of the 
 country, and became more familiar with the 
 manners of the Eait. Mx Baurenfeind, too, who, 
 
 fince 
 
 * As this map of the Nile refpeds only a very fmall part 
 öf thefe travels, and does not fecm equal to that lately publiih- 
 ^ by our countryman, IVIj Bruce, I have not inferted it. T. 
 
4.5 - NIEEUHP.'S TRA;v £L3 
 
 iince his arrival at Cairo, had Icarce ever goiie 
 abroad^ now deterijiined to acconipary nie. 
 
 We fet out from Bulak, on the iil of May 
 1 762 J failing at firfl: very gently down the Nile. 
 From Cairo to the Delta, the river is very large^ 
 ivith fmall iiles fcattered through it; which, 
 ■when the riter overflows, are often trarifported? 
 by the impetiiofity of the fcream, from one fitu- 
 ation to another. This occafions frequent dif- 
 putes among the villagers on the banks of the 
 river, Biit^ at this time, the Nile was fo low, 
 that our boat was feverai times a-ground. W e 
 might have proceeded v/ith the ftream, in the 
 calm, during night, had we not been afraid of 
 pirates. A north wind blows ufaally through 
 the day, and oppoies the progrefs of boats dov^ii 
 the river. Violent blaits fometimes arife, and 
 'bear land and dull: before them, darkening the 
 air, and endangering the fafety of the boatSj, 
 which are commonly very indifferent failers. 
 
 Ail the villages have, indeed, guards to 
 watch the approach of pirates, and warn paifen- 
 gers. But, thole yery guards often join v^ith 
 ' the inhabitants- of the villages, and fit out barks 
 themfelvey, to plunder thofe whom they Ihould' 
 proted:. 
 
 Slfta, at which we arrived on the 3d of May,, 
 is a pretty conüderable village, betvvcen Cairo 
 and Damietta. It is the property of an old 
 
IN ARABIA, l^fC, 47 
 
 KifljCir-^Aga, from ConfcanliRople, living at pre- 
 lent in retirement ar Cairo; wlio keeps here a 
 Kahicican, or bailiit. It has three mofques, and 
 ?v church belonging to the Copts, the congrega- 
 tion of which coniifts of three hundred families^ 
 Thofegood people aßied me to fee rieir church : it 
 is ill-built, dirtVj and hung with cobwebs. Dur- 
 ing the public vvorüiip, they ftand, leaning on 
 their ftaves. Tlieir churches are adorned vv'ith 
 bad paintings. I faw one in which Jefus Chriftj 
 and the Eleffed Virgin, with feveral of the 
 Saints, appeared mounted proudly on horfe- 
 back. 
 
 We faw, in the courfe of our voyage, feveral 
 boats which w^e fufpecled to belong to pirates : 
 but none of them ventured to attack us. We faw, 
 lihewife, feveral rafts laden v^ith pots and other 
 earthen ware from Upper Egypt. Thofe car- 
 goes of earthen ware are fixed upon very light 
 planks of the timber of the palm tree, joined 
 into a raft, the progrefs of v/hicli is directed by 
 fix or eight men with poles in their h.ai:. lif- 
 ter felling their cargoes at Damietta, they walk 
 home. They defend themfel^xs very dexterouf- 
 ly, wdthilings, againd robbers. 
 
 We pafl^ed near by Mapjlira, where St Lewis 
 was made prifoner. It feemed of the fame fize 
 as Damietta, A wall has been built upon the 
 l)ranch of the river near the city, to hinder the 
 
 water 
 
48 
 
 NIEBUHiR.'s TRAVELS 
 
 water from entering the canal that communi- 
 cates with the lake of Babeira, in a larger quan- 
 tity than is requilite for watering the fields of 
 rice, of which a great deal is raifed in this part 
 of the country. 
 
 Below Manfura we met twenty boats laden 
 with bee-hives, which they were bringing up 
 to make honey on the banks of the river. 
 
 In each boat were two hundred hives, four 
 houfand in all. The Sandyak of Manfura lay 
 in the neighbourhood, with a party of forty 
 Haves and dameftic?, to levy the tax due upon 
 the bees. 
 
 On the 5th of May, we arrived at I>amietta. 
 This city is Qt leafl as advantageoully fituated, 
 as Rofetta. The imports from Syria enter at 
 this port ; and it has alfo a great trade in rice, 
 of which there is much raifed in the neighbour- 
 hood. Yet, no Chriftian merchant, or Euro- 
 pean m.onk, refides here ; although there be in 
 Damietta, a confiderable number of Maronites 
 and Armenians, who communicate with the 
 Church of Rome. 
 
 A Conful, and French merchants, once refided 
 in Damietta. But, the inhabitants obferving 
 that thofe ftrangers made too free with their 
 women, rofe up in a fury, and malTacred them 
 all. Since that period the King of France has 
 
 forbiddei^ 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 49 
 
 forbidden Iiis fubjeds not only to fettle in this 
 city J. but even to frequent it. The inhabitants 
 of Damietta are generally reckoned more un- 
 friendly to the Chriilians, than any of the other 
 inhabitants of Egypt. The memory of the Cru- 
 fades, perhaps, keeps up this inveterate averhon. 
 But, as we wore the Turkifli drefs, and fpoke 
 the language of the country tolerably, we had 
 nothing to fear. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of this city are many 
 i:ice fields^ But towards the fhore, the ground 
 is covered with. fand,, and confequently barren. 
 To travel by land from Damietta to Rofetta, it 
 is only a journey of a day and a half. But the 
 road is infeiled by robbers, and very dangerous. 
 
 As I was fo near the lea, I went to fe^ the 
 Boghas, two German leagues below Damietta. 
 This mouth of the Nile is not lefs dangerous to 
 veßels than that at Rofetta. It w^as formerly 
 defended by a fort ; but the garrifon have been 
 frightened aw^ay by apparitions. I \ifited it in 
 company wath fomxC Mahometans, who faid thei^ 
 prayers very devoutly in that abode of fpirits^ 
 This w^as the only time, I remarked this fpecies 
 of fuperftition among the Mufulmans ^ appari- 
 tions are unknown in Arabia. 
 
 The lake of Baheira extends from Damietta 
 to Ghajfa, I fhould have Vv^ifned to fee a lake 
 fo famous am.ong the ancients, and in the coun- 
 
 VoL. I. F try 
 
5© 
 
 niebühr's travels 
 
 try around whofe banks there ftill are fuch mag- 
 nificent remains of a number of great cities, t 
 might have examined, at the fame time, feveral 
 modern cities, well worthy of the notice of the 
 curious ; fuch as Demifchli^ where is a manufac- 
 ture of beautiful ftuffs ; Bilbays ?ind Tafnal, in 
 which are fome noble mi^onuments. But the in- 
 habitants of Baheira being poor, and from their 
 infulated fituation almoft independent, are to be 
 dreaded equally by land and water. They rob. 
 all travellers, without diftinftion. I found it 
 therefore prudent to decline gratifying my cu% 
 riofity. 
 
 A number of the villages on the banks of the 
 Nile belong to Beys who relide ^t Cairo. The 
 Copts, who are fecretaries to thofe noblemenj, 
 might have given me information concerning 
 the nature of the tenure, if I had been carried 
 to confult them. In my map of the courfe of 
 the Nile, I haye inferted the names of all the 
 places I faw, far and near, ßut, I have had no, 
 fmall difficulty in writing down thefe names ; 
 both from the diverfity of di^lecjlis in the coun- 
 try, and from the indiftindl pronunciation of 
 thofe from whom I was obliged to alk them. 
 
 We left Damietta on the 12th of May ; and 
 ^he wind blew fo^fair, that v/e reached Bulak^ 
 en the I5thc 
 
In ARABIA, 
 
 51 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Of the Ancient Cities of Lower Egypt. 
 
 Ancient hiftorians and geographers, enume- 
 rate fuch a multitude of cities in Egypt, that it 
 feems to be at prefent quite a defart in com pa- 
 rifon with what it was in the days of antiquity. 
 New cities have indeed arifen, but thefe are 
 mere trifles, compared with the number, the ex- 
 tent, and the magnificence of the ancient. All 
 the remains of monuments referable to the moil 
 remote antiquity, befpeak the hand of a nume- 
 rous and opulent people, who have entirely dif- 
 appeared. 
 
 When, however, we refiedl on the revolutions 
 which this country has undergone, and upon 
 the length of time during which it has been 
 under the dominion of ftrangers ; we can no 
 longer be furprized at the decline of its wealth 
 and population. It has been fucceffively fubdu-- 
 ed by the Peril ans, the Greeks, the Romans, the 
 Arabians, and the Turks : — has enjoyed no in- 
 terval of tranquillity and freedom 5 but has been 
 conftantly opprelTed and pillaged by the li§u* 
 tenants of a diftant lord. Thofe ufurpers and 
 their fervants having no other views, but to draw 
 F 2 as 
 
52 
 
 NIEBUHR's tRAVlir 
 
 as large a revenue as poffible from an opulent 
 province, fcarce left the people bare means of 
 fubfiilence. Agriculture wa:s ruined by the mi- 
 feries of the hufbandmen ; and the cities decay- 
 ed with its decline. Even at^prefent, the popu- 
 lation is decreafmg ; and the peafant, although 
 in a fertile country, miferably poor ; for the e^^- 
 adlions of Government, and its officers, leave him 
 nothing to lay out in the improvement and cul- 
 ture of his lands ; while the cities are falling in- 
 to ruins, becaufe the fame unhappy reftraints 
 render it impoffible for the citizens to engage 
 in any lucrative undertaking. 
 
 It would be difficult to afcertain the fituatioii 
 of the ancient cities. The places in which they 
 fi:ood are commonly marked by dykes, which 
 had been raifed to ffielter them from inunda- 
 tions. Elevations appear here and there over the 
 plains ; and thofe always contain ruins, which 
 have been gradually covered over by accumula- 
 tions from the river, and by fand depoüted by the 
 v.'inds. The fpots, that either conceal in this 
 manner, or openly difplay remains of ruined ci- 
 ties, are aftonifhingly numerous. 
 
 The quantity of thefe ruins would be great- 
 er ilill, if the inhabitants did not carry them, 
 away piecemeal, and employ them in the con- 
 llruclion of new buildings. In fearch of ma- 
 terials for buiidingy they are conilantly turning 
 
 over 
 
IN ARABIA, S3 
 
 t)ver the ruins ; and they not only dig up the 
 ground, but even riddle the earth taken out, in 
 hopes of finding in it gold or gems. A friend 
 of mine, the lord of a village, near the remains 
 of an ancient city, made me a prefent of the fi- 
 gure of a fcaraboeus, of old Egyptian workman - 
 fhip, which had been found by fome of his pea- 
 fants, in digging up the earth in this manner. 
 It is of burnt clay, covered with a thick coating 
 of varnifli. It is a proof, that thofe people had 
 moulds with which they impreffed particular fi- 
 gures on the clay, before putting it into the fire. 
 
 The eaitern part of the Delta, which has 
 been, as yet, but little frequented by the Eu- 
 ropean travellers, is not lefs rich in antiquities 
 than that which is better known. The frequen- 
 cy of robbers, and the loofenefs of the police, in 
 that remote diftrid, deters thp curious.- Yet 
 one might vifit thofe parts without danger, by- 
 accompanying the Copts, of whom great num- 
 bers go every year, in pilgrimage to an ancient 
 church, near Geniiana, 
 
 Some Arabs mentioned to Mr Forikal the 
 jQames of feveral of thofe places in which the 
 Jews anciently dwelt, and of which the ruins 
 itill fubfift. Thofe names do, indeed, all indi- 
 cate fomething relative to the fojourning of the 
 Jews in this country. But as the account reftS 
 upon vague tradition, and regards a defpifed 
 
 people^ 
 
§4 NIEBÜHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 people, whofe hiftory is little known, we wem 
 not at the trouble of making farther en-» 
 quiries. 
 
 The Egyptians are riot well pteafed to fee Eu- 
 ropeans digging among ruins. They imagine^ 
 that we are fearching for treafures. While 1 
 was meafuring a fine obelifk, which is fliL 
 llanding entire^ near Mature, the inhabitants 
 gathered rounds and watched my operations a ; 
 a fmall diftance. They imagined that 1 had 
 feme fecret to overturn the pillar, and intended 
 to have their lhare of the riches which they fup- 
 pofed I was to find under its bafe* When they 
 faw that I did not fucceed, according to their 
 ideas, they fufFered me to walk off, without in- 
 fulting me. One might, however, avoid giv- 
 ing umbrage to the people, by obtaining leave 
 from the Lord of the village to have thofe fpots 
 examined, that contain ruins, and employing the 
 jpeafants in the work. 
 
 Different travellers have been at pains to de^ 
 fcribe the äntiquities of the cities of ancient 
 Egypt ; and various men of letters have written 
 dilfertations upon thofe defcriptions, and com- 
 pared them with what is related by the Latin 
 and Greek authors, in order to difcover to what 
 ancient city each particular pile of ruins per- 
 tained. Such inveftigations may be curious^ 
 but, confidering their uncertainty, I would nei» 
 
 ther 
 
3N ARABIA, Wc. 55 
 
 ther defcend to any fuch details myfeif, nor 
 quote what has been advanced in this way hy 
 others. 
 
 €hap. VL 
 
 Of the City of Cairo, 
 
 In the courfe of the eleven laft centuries, finc^ 
 the conqueft of Egypt by the Arabians, many 
 changes have taken place in the neighbourhood 
 of Cairo, or, as it is called in the language of 
 the country, Kahira, Thofe conquerors demo- 
 lifhed or neglected the cities which they found 
 fubfifting, and built others. 
 
 At their entrance into this country, they found, 
 a city on the banks of the Nile, which their 
 writers call Mafr, and which no doubt was th^ 
 Egyptian Babylon of the Greek authors. They 
 became mafters of it by the treafon of Mokati- 
 has. In their Muffulman zeal, abhorring to 
 dwell in the fame city with Chriftians, they fet- 
 tled, by degrees, in the place where their ge-» 
 neral had pitched his camp, and formed a city 
 which they called Foßat. 
 
 This city, when it became the capital of Er 
 gypt, was alfo called Mafr ; a name which it 
 lias retained even line e Cairo, priginally only a 
 
 fuburbj 
 
5« 
 
 NISBUH?.'S TRAVELS 
 
 fiiburb, has fupplanted it in the chara^er of 
 capital. Foftat declined,., as Cairo, which was 
 founded in the 358 year of the Hegira, by the 
 general of a Fatimite Caliph I., advanced. The 
 remains of Foilat are known at prefent by the 
 name of Mafr-el-atik, old Mafr. The famous 
 Salah ed din embellilhed the rifing city of Cairo, 
 and inclofed it with walls. 
 
 Cairo, in its turn, came to receive the name of 
 Mafr. The Europeans call it Cairo, or Grand 
 Cairo. Although fo modern, it is truly very 
 large. It extends, for an hour's walk, to the 
 foot of the mountain Mokattam^ at the diftance 
 of half a league from the banks of the Nile. 
 From the top of that hill, on which Hands the 
 caftle, the whole city is feen. On the other fides 
 it is furrounded with hillocks formed by the ac« 
 cumulation of the dirt, conveyed out of the city. 
 They are already fo high, that the tops of the 
 buildings in the city can fcarce be feen over 
 them, from the banks of the Nile. 
 
 Cairo, although a very great city, is not , 
 fo populous as the cities in Europe, of the 
 fame extent. The capital of Egypt contains 
 large ponds, w^hich, when full, have the appear- 
 ance even of lakes. The mofques occupy large 
 areas. In a quarter which I had occalion to 
 examine particularly, I found the large ftreets 
 divided by a large fpace of ground, laid out in 
 
 gardens 
 
IN APvABIA, t^r. 
 
 57 
 
 gardens, and otherwife. I am induced to tbJnk^ 
 that, in the other quarters, are large unoccupied 
 fpaces ot the fame fort. The houfes in Cairo 
 are not fo high as in the cities of Europe. In 
 ^omc parts, they coniift only of one ftory, and 
 are built of bricks that have been dried in the 
 fun(j), 
 
 I have obferved, that travellers ahvays err in 
 eftimating the population of the cities of the 
 Eail : and I may add, that the arrangement of 
 the ftreets of Cairo niuft make that city appear 
 larger than it really is. In feveral quarters there 
 are pretty long wynds, which terminate not in 
 any principal ftreet ; fo that thofe who live 
 at the bottom of them, can converfe from 
 the back parts of their houfes, yet mufl: walk a 
 quarter of a league before they can meet. Such 
 wynds or fanes are, for the moil part, inhabited by 
 artifans, who go out to work m more frequented 
 ftreets, and leasee their wives and children at 
 home. From^ this circumftance, thefe are fo fur- 
 prifed to fee a paifenger, that they naturally fu]3- 
 pofe, that you have loft your way, and tell you, 
 that you cannot pafs there. All the intercourfe 
 is therefore through the principal ftreets ; and 
 thefe are very narrow ; fo that, being continu- 
 ally crowded, they will naturally occafion a 
 ftranger to think the city much more populous 
 than it really is. 
 
 Vol. I. G The 
 
58 
 
 I^IEBUKH'S TRAVELS 
 
 The caftle Handing upon a fteep, infulated 
 rock, between the city and mount Mokattam, 
 was probably ere6led in the days of the Greeks, 
 and might form a part of the Egyptian Babylon, 
 It is at prefent parted into three divißons, 
 which are occupied by the Pacha, the Janiffaries, 
 and the Aflabs. The palace of the Pacha is 
 falling into ruins, and is unworthy of being the 
 dwelling of the Governor of a great province. 
 But the Turkifh Pachas are in general ill lodg- 
 ed. They know all, that they are not to be 
 long in power ; and none cares for making re-- 
 parations to accommodate his fuccelTor. 
 
 The quarter of the janilTaries is furrounded 
 with ftrong walls which are flanked with tow- 
 ers, and has more the appearance of a fortrefs. 
 Thofe foldiers accordingly avail themfelves of 
 their fituation in the revolutions which happen 
 fo frequently in Egypt. That body, although 
 paid by the Sultan, are not much attached to 
 their fovereign. Their principal officers have 
 been flaves to the more refpedable inhabitants 
 of Cairo, and are ftill more attached to their old 
 mailers than to the Sovereign of the Turkifh 
 empire. When the Egyptians depofe a Pacha, 
 the janiffaries are commonly ready to drive him 
 out of the palace, if he fails to fet off at the day 
 fixed to him, by the Beys. But the Arabs are 
 
 in 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 59 
 
 in little fear of the janiflaries, and rob with con- 
 fidence, clofe by their quarters. 
 
 Within this caftle are two monuments, which 
 fome, both Mahometans and Chriftians, fanci- 
 fully afcribe to a patriarch ; the fountain, and 
 palace of Jofeph. The fountain is indeed deep, 
 and cut in the rock ; but nothing extraordinary, 
 when it is conüdered, that the rock is a very foft 
 calcareous ftone. It is not at all comparable to 
 the labours of the ancient Indians, who have 
 cut whole pagodas in the very hardeil rocks. 
 
 The pretended palace of Jofeph, is a large 
 building, which ftiil retains fome precious re- 
 mains of its ancient magnificence. In the apart- 
 ment in which a manufadlure of cloth is at pre- 
 fent carried on, the walls are adorned with figures 
 of beautiful Mofaic work, compofed of mother 
 of pearl, precious ilones, and coloured glafs. 
 The ceiling of another chamber contains fine 
 paintings ; in fome places, the names of moil of 
 the ancient monarchs of Egypt are engraven. 
 The caliphs of Egypt appear to have inhabited 
 this palace ; and it is furprifing, that the Pa- 
 cha does not choofe to lodge in it. From a bal- 
 cony in this building, a perfon has a delightful 
 view of Cairo, Bulak, Geeß, and a vafi trad of 
 country extending all the way to the pyramids. 
 
 That valuable ftufF of which the Sultan makes 
 an annual prefent to the fanduary of Mecca, is 
 G- 2 fabricated 
 
6o 
 
 I>IIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 fabricated in this palace. I alked the diredor 
 of the manufadure, from what Joleph he fuppof- 
 ed the fountain and palace to have taken their 
 denomination ? he anfwered from Salah ed di?t, 
 whofe proper name was Jofeph. This account 
 leems the more probable, as Cairo owes its oth- 
 er embelliüiments to that Caliph. Near this pa- 
 lace are thirty large and beautiful columns of 
 red granite ftill Handing, but unroofed, and de- 
 graded by having a parcel of wretched huts 
 built againft them. In a path cut in the rock^ 
 and leading from one part of the caille to ano- 
 ther, I v/as furprifed to obferve an eagle with a 
 double head, engraven upon a large ftone, and 
 Hill perfeäily difcernible. 
 
 The fuburb El Karafe^ at prefent but thinly 
 inhabited^ contains a number of fuperb mofques? 
 which are partly fallen into ruins, with feveral 
 tombs of the ancient fovereigns of this country. 
 The Mahometan women repair in crowds to 
 this place, on pretence of performing their devo- 
 tions, but, in reality, for the pleafure of walk- 
 ing abroad. On the other fide of the caftie^ 
 there is alfo a great number of ruinous mofques, 
 and houfes of prayer, built over the tombs of 
 rich Mahometans, and forming a ilreet three 
 quarters of a German league in length. From 
 the aftoniHiing number of thefe mofques and 
 koufes, it fliould feem that the ancient fove- 
 
 vereigns 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 6t 
 
 reigns of Egypt were not lefs difpofed than the 
 Sultans of Conftantinople, to expend money up- 
 on pious foundations. 
 
 Among this multitude of mofques are feme 
 diftinguifhed by beauty and folidity of ftrud:ure« 
 One of thofe, although the feat of an academy, 
 was fo ftrongly and fo advantageouily fituated^ 
 that, in particular infurredions, batteries ufed 
 to be raifed in it, and diredled againft the 
 caftle ; for which reafon the gates have been 
 built up. Thofe mofques have little ornament 
 within : The pavement is covered with mats, 
 feldom with carpets. Nothing appears on the 
 walls, but a few palfages of the Koran, written 
 in golden letters, and a profulion of bad lamps, 
 fufpended horizontally, and intermixed with of- 
 trich eggs, and fome other trifling curiolities. 
 
 The Mouritan is a large hofpital for the lick 
 and mad. Thofe of the former clafs are not nume- 
 rous, conüdering the extent of the city. The 
 fick were formerly provided witli every thing that 
 could tend to foothe their diflrefs, not excepting 
 even mufic. From the infufhciency of the funds 
 to fupply fo great an expence, the mufic had been 
 retrenched, but has been fince reftored by the 
 charity of a private perfon. The defcriptiona 
 of Cairo fay much of the large revenues belong- 
 ing to the hofpital, and to many of the mofques. 
 But the fame thing happens here as in other 
 
 places : 
 
NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 places : The adminiftrators of the revenues eil« 
 rich themfelves at the expence of the founda- 
 tions ; fo that new bequefts from the pious are 
 from time to time neceffarj, to prevent them 
 from falling into utter decay. 
 
 In this city are a great many kans or oquals^ 
 as they are called in Egypt. Thefe are large 
 and ftrong buildings, confifting of ware-rooms 
 and fmall chambers for the ufe of foreign mer- 
 chants. Here, as well as at Conftantinople, are 
 feveral elegant lioufes, where frefli water is dif-» 
 tributed gratis to paffengers* 
 
 The public baths are very numerous. AL 
 though externally very plain buildings, they have 
 liandfome apartments within, paved with marble, 
 and ornamented in the faihion of the country. 
 Several fervants attend, each of whom has his 
 particular taik, in waiting upon and affifting 
 thofe who come to bathe. Strangers are furprif- 
 ed when thofe bathers begin to handle them, 
 and afraid of having their limbs diflocated. But 
 after being a little accuftomed to the ceremony, 
 they find it fufficiently agreeable. 
 
 The birkets^ or ponds, formed by the waters 
 of the Nile, which, when it rifes, fills the hol- 
 lows, are very common about and in Cairo. 
 Thofe ponds, or rather marflies^ become mea- 
 dows, every year after the water is evaporated. 
 
 This 
 
IN ARABIA, "^C. 
 
 63 
 
 This viciffitude renders them very agreeable : 
 And the moll confiderable perfons in the coun- 
 try live upon their banks. The palaces of the 
 great are no ornaments to the city ; for nothing 
 about them can be feen but the high v.^alls that 
 furround them. 
 
 Chap. VII. 
 
 Of the Country immediately around Cairo, 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Cairo are feveral re-- 
 markable places : Among others, the three viL 
 lages of Bulak, Foftat, Geefli ; v/hich are all 
 fo near, that they may be reckoned fuburbs 
 to it. 
 
 Bulak, which was undoubtedly the Latopolh 
 of the ancient Greeks, is at prefent ^a very con- 
 fiderable town, and the port of Cairo. All 
 goods from Damietta and Rofetta, and all ex- 
 ports from Egypt by the Mediterranean, pafs 
 this way. For this reafon, a large cullom-houfe 
 is eftablifhed here ; and a vaft bazar, or cover- 
 ed market-place, called Kijfarie, Here are al- 
 fo magazines of rice, fait, nitre, and of various 
 productions of Upper Egypt. Here is alfo a 
 houfe belonging to the Sultan, in which is kept 
 the corn that he fends annually to Mecca and 
 Medina. 
 
 Toßaty 
 
64 
 
 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 Foßat^ or Mafr-el-atik, although greatly decay» 
 ed, mayftill be confidered as a town of the middle 
 lize. It has a cuftom-houfe, where the duties on 
 goods from Upper Egypt are paid. In a large 
 fquare,inclofed with a wall, Government ftoreup, 
 in the open air, a confiderable quantity of grain, 
 every year. Some authors fpeak of this as a 
 granary built by the patriarch Jofeph. But the 
 Ivall is plainly of a later date than even the 
 conqueft of Egypt by the Arabians. 
 
 The old citadel of Mafr is inhabited, at pre- 
 fent, by none but Chriftians. In it are to bq 
 £een fever al chvirches of the Greeks and Copts^ 
 with a convent of Monks, of the latter nation 
 A grotto, under one of the Coptic churches, is 
 regarded with high veneration, becaufe it is 
 fuppofed to have been the retreat of the Holy 
 Family,, when they fled into Egypt. The Greeks, 
 have a church, famous for a miracle of a Angular 
 mature : Fools recover their wits, upon being 
 "bound to a certain pillar of it. 
 
 Between this city and Cairo is an aquedu£t,. 
 which was conilru61ed in the beginning of the 
 fixth century, by Sultan Gari, and conveys wa- 
 ter into the neighbourhood of the caftle. Near 
 the canal is a convent of Dervifes, celebrated for 
 the elegance of the building, and the opulence 
 of the foundation ; and near this convent are 
 large fquares, in which the principal inhabitants 
 
 of 
 
IN ARABIA, %SC, 65 
 
 bi Cairo, amufe tliemfelves with military exer= 
 cifes. 
 
 The fmall village of Geejl? ftands on the fouth-^ 
 ern bank of the Nile, oppofite to Mafr-el-atik» 
 Its origin is unknown. The heights around it, 
 which have no doubt been raifed by the accu- 
 mulation of the dirt from the city, feem to be= 
 fpeak its antiquity. I found nothing remarkable 
 about it, except fome country-houfes belonging 
 to rich inhabitants of Cairo, and fome manu- 
 factories (k), 
 
 Matare, a town, or rather village, about two 
 leagues from the capital, is feated nearly on the 
 ruins of the ancient Heliopolis. It is, hov/everp 
 more famous among the Chriftians for a fyco- 
 more, whofe trunk is faid to have afforded a fhel- 
 ter to the Holy Family, in their flight. This 
 fycomore fhould feem to have the power of re~ 
 newing itfelf : for, of the crowds of fiiperftitious 
 perfons who viiit it, each ufuaily cuts off, and 
 carries away a piece. This village w^as former- 
 ly famous for the cultivation of thofe trees which 
 afford Egyptian balfam. But none of them is 
 now to be feen here ; the laft died in the begin- 
 ning of the feventeenth century. The Turks are 
 not a people to reilore fo valuable a plant, 
 
 ^ Four leagues eaftward from Cairo is Birket^ 
 d-Hadgi, or the pilgrim's pool, a pretty confi- 
 derable lake, which receives its water from the 
 
 Vol, I, H Nile, 
 
KIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 'c. Upon its baalis are feveral villages, an J 
 yood many ruinous country -houfes. There 
 
 'tiling to render this place remarkable, ex- 
 t at the time of the fetting out of the cara- 
 1 for Mecca, when the pilgrims encamp near 
 for a few days ; as they do alfo upon their 
 urn. On the 20th of May 1762, two days 
 :re the departure of the caravan, I had the 
 ; jfity to vifit this ca,mp, but found little a- 
 t it worth viewing, I faw indeed a very 
 
 jlegant tents ; but every thing elfe üiock- 
 ;/ nally^ diforderiy,. and paltry. 
 
 Chap. VIIL 
 
 F ihs. MihMaSy or Nilometer, and of the rijing of tldH 
 Nile, 
 
 I 77EEN Mafr-el~atik and Geefh^ in the mid- 
 
 c: the Nile is the iile of Rodda, which for- 
 . communicated with thofe two cities 
 
 : vo bridges of boats, that no longer fubiift. 
 ilourifhing days of FoRat, the illand was 
 
 .red with gardens and villas. But lince 
 . 0 has become the capital of Egypt, Mafr- 
 . ; Bulak, and even Birket-el-Hadgi, are 
 . :....rred as fituations for gardens and villas. 
 
 This 
 
This iiland fliews, at prefent, nothing remr.iv 
 aoie, except, that on its fouthern extremity 
 fcands a wall, which has been built to breaii 
 force of the current. Upon this extrem ir 
 ilands alfo a moique, in v, hich is the famci. 
 Mikkias or Nilometer. This is well knowr 1 
 be a bafon having a communication with tl 
 Nile, on the middle of which Hands a ccli::. ■ 
 that ferves to indicate the height of the wa- : 
 of the river. Norden has given a draught ci j 
 liner than the original, which is mouldering ; 
 away ; for the Turks will not lay out the fn: 
 left expence, even upon the moü neceimy :^ 
 pairs. 
 
 I know not whether any perfon has yet i:r \ 
 fured the breadth of the Nile. By a geomc : :, 
 cal operation, I found it to be 2946 feet. Vr > . : 
 out knowmg this meafure, one can form no . . 
 of the aftoniihing mais of water which this 1. , . 
 carries down, when in its full height^ 
 
 The Nile, it is well known, begins eve: ;' ^ 1 
 to rife about the middle of June, and cont . 1 ; 
 riling 40 or 50 days ; it then falls, by de v 
 till, in the end of May, next year, it is : . 
 lovv^eft. The caufes of its rife are now : , 
 known. During the hot months of the v-: 
 rain falls every day in Hahoefch or Ab}^^: ' 
 and all that rain-water is collecied into the ' 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 which, from its entrance into Egypt, till it reach- 
 es the Tea, runs through a wide vale. 
 
 It does not rife alike high through all Egypt« 
 I durit not mtafure it near the Mikkias, but, 
 from obicr nations made at Geefh, I faw, that at 
 Cairo the full 'height is at leaft 24 feet above its 
 ordinary level. At Rofetta and Damietta it is 
 only four feet. But this vaft difference is not 
 furprifirig ; for, at Cairo, the Nile being confin- 
 ed to one channel, between high banks, mull 
 hecelTarily rife to a much greater height than 
 nearer the fea, where it is divided into two 
 ftreams,' after runnlug over fo much barren 
 ground, and forming fo many lakes. The branch 
 upon \^'hich Rofetta ftands, is only 650 feet 
 broad ; and that by Daniietta, not more than 
 
 Affoon as the Nile begins to rife, all the ca- 
 nals intended to convey the waters through the 
 country, are fhut and cleanfed. They are kept 
 fhut, however, till the river rife to a certain 
 height which is indicated by the Nilometer in 
 the iile of Rodda, A Shech attends for this pur- 
 pofe, by the Mikkias, and gives notice, from 
 time to time, of the riling of the river, to a 
 number of poor perfons who wait at Foltat for 
 the information, and run inftantly to publifh 
 it in the ftreets of Cairo. They return 
 Very day to Follatj at a certain hour, to learn 
 ' ~^ - ■ from 
 
IN ARABIA, 6f 
 
 from the Schech, how many inches the river 
 iias rifen : And its rife is every day proclaimed ir^ 
 public, till it reaches the fixed height, at which 
 the canals are permitted to be unlocked ; the 
 nfual tax is then paid for the waters, to the Sul- 
 tan, and a good year expedled. 
 
 The canal at Cairo is firft opened, and then, 
 fucceffively, all the other great canals down to 
 the fea. The inhabitants of no particular dif- 
 tridl dare drav/ off any part of the water of th^ 
 Nile, although it have rifen to the height that beft 
 fuits the inlands ; for this would injure the high- 
 er grounds ; and therefore every body mufl 
 wait till the public order be given out. There 
 are laws in -Egypt, which are ftridly obferved, 
 and which determine the diftribution of the wa- 
 ters, and the time when the large and xmall ca- 
 nals are to be opened. 
 
 Between the dyke of the canal of Cairo, and 
 the Nile, a pillar of earth is raifed, nearly of 
 the height to which the waters of the rivers are 
 expedled to rife. This pillar is called j4nes, or 
 the bride, and ferves as a fcrt of Nilometer, for 
 the ufe of the common people. When the wa- 
 ters enter the canal, this bi'ide is carried away 
 by the current. A like cuftom, which prevail- 
 ed among the ancient Egyptians, has fubjeded . 
 them to the imputation of facrificing every year 
 a virgin to the Nile, 
 
 The 
 
NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 The canal is ufually opened with great fefti-. 
 vity, and a concourfe of people. But when we 
 were in Cairo, it was opened without anj parade; 
 for it had been imperfedly cleanfed, and the 
 water did not enter it readily. As this cere- 
 mony has been defcribed by fo many authors^ 
 I fliall not trouble the reader with any account 
 of it. 
 
 A piece of fuperftition now prevails in Egypt, 
 of which hiftory makes no mention before the 
 conqueilof the country by the Arabs. Certain wo- 
 men, both Chriftian and Mahometan, pretend to 
 foretell what height the Nile will rifeto, by means 
 of certain rites which they prad:ife. Thefe de- 
 pend upon the popular notion, that, on the night 
 of the 17th or i8th of June, there falls, in Hab-» 
 befch, a drop, in Arabic nokta, into the Nile, which 
 caufes its waters to ferment and fwell. To dif» 
 cover the quantity of this drop, and the force 
 with which it falls, and, of confequence, the 
 height of the river, and the fertility of the lands 
 for the year ; thofe women put a bit of pafte on 
 the roof of the houfe, on the night on which the 
 drop is imagined to fall ; and they draw their 
 prediction from the greater or fmaller increafe 
 of weight, which it receives. It is eafy to ex- 
 plain this experiment : for, in the feafon in 
 which it is performed, there fall regularly hea- 
 vy dews throughout Egypt. A fenfible and 
 
 learned 
 
In AR A]^ I A, t^C, 
 
 ji 
 
 learned Mahometan, who looked upon the pre- 
 di6tions as fooleries, told me, that this vulgar 
 error arofe, like many others, from an ambi- 
 guous expreflion ; Nokta lignifying in Arabic, 
 both a drop and the Wne of the furl's entering 
 the ßgn of Cancer ; at which feafon, the great 
 rains fall in Abyffinia, which occafion the fwel- 
 ling of the Nile. 
 
 I have remarked, that the canal of Cairo is 
 cleanfed every year ; and it then ferves as a 
 llreet. But it can never be long ufed as a ftreet ; 
 for it is never cleanfed, till the dyke be ready 
 to be cut down. While the water is running 
 in this canal, the houfes about it are very agree- 
 able ; but, through the reft of the year, it is 9 
 very uncomfortable neighbourhood. It is al- 
 ways exceedingly filthy. The infufferable 
 fmell, and noxious putridity, which itdiffufes all 
 around, infed the air, and produce epidemic 
 diftempers. 
 
 No water fit for drinking is to be had at Cai- 
 ro, unlefs out of the Nile ; from wliich it is 
 brought every day mto the city, in ficins, ^ipon 
 alfes and camels. Under feveral mofques, are 
 large refervoirs, in which water is preferved for 
 the ufe of the public, during the fwell of the 
 Nile ; for the river is then muddy, and its wa- 
 ter thought unwholefome. Indeed the water of 
 the Nile is always fomev/hat muddy \ but, by 
 
 rubbings 
 
klfiUHR's TRAVELS 
 
 rubbing with bitter almonds, prepared in a par-^ 
 ticular manner, the earthen jars in which it is 
 kept, this water is rendered clear, light, and 
 falutary. The ufe of this water is generalljr 
 thought to be the occafion of a cutaneous erup- 
 tion to which the inhabitants of Cairo are fub- 
 jed:, at a certain feafon in the year. It is trou- 
 blefome, but does not injure the health. 
 
 SECTION 
 
!N ARABIA^ 
 
 73 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 OF THE GOVERNMENT, ARTS, AND TRADE OF 
 EGYPT. 
 
 Chap. Ic 
 
 Of the Nature of the Egyptian GovernmenL 
 
 1 HE Turks, as is generally knoivn, conquered 
 Egypt in the beginning of the lixteenth cen- 
 tury, from the Mammelukes ; ia mercenary mili- 
 tia, who had, for fome centuries, ufurped the 
 Government of this province, which Xhtj admi- 
 liiftered by an ele6live chief, with the title of 
 Sultan, This fpecies of Government feems ftill 
 to fublift, juft as much as before the Turkifh 
 conqueft ; and, with all their defpotic pride, they 
 have never attempted to change it, 
 
 A form of Government that has prevailed fo 
 long, and which ahaughty, and powerful conque - 
 ror durll not abolifh^ muft have, within itielfy 
 fome principle of ft ability, to maintain it againft 
 revolution. .*It might deferve to be better 
 tuown, and explained by fome intelligent per-. 
 
 ¥0L, L I fOD^ 
 
n 
 
 niebühr's travels 
 
 fon, who fnouid ftudy it in a long rendence in 
 the country. A traveller like me, who has had 
 only a traniient view of thefe objects, can nei- 
 ther difcern, nor defcribe all the parts of fo 
 ^:ompiex a machine. 
 
 I have learned enough, however, to enable 
 Hie to diftinguifh, that this Government is at 
 prefent an ariflocracy, partly civil, partly mili- 
 tary, but chiefly military. Under the protec- 
 tion, rather than the autharity of the Sultan of 
 Conftantinople, a divan, or fovereign counfel, 
 exercifes the fupreme authority, both executive 
 and legiflative. Even the revenue of the Sul- 
 tan is rather a tribute paid to a protedlor, than 
 a tax levied by a fovereign. It is, belides, fo 
 moderate, that the necelTary expences of Govern- 
 ment confume it entirely in Egypt ; and the 
 trunk, in which it is pompoufly conveyed to 
 Conftantinople, generally arrives there empty. 
 
 Such a Government muft be frequently dif- 
 turbed by fa6lious infurredlions. Cairo is con- 
 Itantly convulfed by cruel difleniion ; parties are 
 continually j -erring ; and the great retain troops 
 to decide their differences by force of arms. 
 
 The mutual jealouiies of the chiefs, feemtobe 
 the only caufes which ftill preferve to the Porte 
 the lhadow of authority over this country, — 
 The members of the arittocracy are all afraid of 
 lofing their inüuence under a reiiding fovereign ; 
 
 and 
 
IN ARABIA, y$ 
 
 and therefore agree in oppoiing the elevation 
 of any of their own body to the fupreme dignity 
 In our own days, Ali-Bey has found how diffi- 
 cult it is to afcend the throne of Egypt, or to 
 maintain one's felf upon it (m). 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Of the Grand Signior^s Officers, 
 
 The Grand Signior fends always a Pacha of 
 three tails, to exercife his precarious authority 
 in Egypt, in the characler of Governor. But 
 the Pacha of Cairo, far from enjoying the fanie 
 authority as the other Pachas ' of the Turkifh 
 empire, is entirely dependent on the Egyptian 
 divan. That arillocratical body, regarding the 
 Pacha as their tyrant, frequently depofe him, unlefs 
 he have the addrefs to fuppcrt himfelf by pro- 
 voking and fomenting the contentions of the 
 different parties, favouring each by turns. 
 
 During my ftay at Alexandria, the inhabi- 
 tants of Cairo expelled their Pacha. Mufliapha 
 Pacha was at the fame time in Egypt, v/ho had 
 been already twice Grand Vizir, and rcfe, after- 
 wards, a third tim.e to that dirnlty Having 
 been fent by the Sultan to Bjidda^ he had re- 
 I a maine^ 
 
1^ 
 
 NI5,BUHR's TRAVEX.S 
 
 mained in Egypt, on pretence of iilnefs. Tiie 
 inhabitants chofe Muftapha their Pacha, and 
 found means to oblige the Sultan, however dif- 
 fatisfied with the eledors, and the perfon whom 
 they had elecled, to confirm their choice. But 
 the new Pacha kept his place only feven months, 
 and was then obliged to yield it to another from 
 Conftantinople. The latter died fuddenly, up- 
 on the arrival of a Kapigi-Bachi, who was fent 
 aft^r him by the Sultan. Thus, in the Ihort 
 time while I was in Egypt, three Governors fuc- 
 ceeded each other rapidly in the Government 
 of that province. 
 
 The chief Cadi of Cairo is fucceeded almoll 
 every year, by another from Conftantinople, who 
 is named by the Sultan, on the recommendation 
 of the Mufti. 
 
 Except thefe two, tho Sultan appoints no 
 other officers in Egypt, unlefs indiredly. It is 
 true, he feems alfo to difpofe of the poll of Bey^ 
 to which he nominates ; but the Egyptians pro- 
 pofe the candidates ; and he dares not rejedl 
 them; his nomination is therefore mere cere- 
 
IK ARABIA, i^a» 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 Of the Divan and the Beys, 
 
 The Divan, or fupreme Council, confifls of twen-= 
 ty four Beys, fourteen of the chief officers of the 
 t:roops, and a number of people of the law, or 
 yatlier of the churchi. 
 
 The Beys are governors of different diflrids. 
 The offices of Grand Treafurer and Governor of 
 Cairo, are likewife held by members of this 
 body. They entertain guards and bodies of fol- 
 diers, as well for their perfonal fecurity, as to 
 enforce obedience through the diflriä:s under 
 their Government. The name of Bey, ov Beg, 
 denotes a powerful lord, and may perhaps be 
 confidered as nearly fynonymous with prince. 
 Their number is never complete ; v.'hen I was 
 in Egypt, there were,inftead of twenty four, only 
 eighteen. The revenues of the vacant places, 
 "were probably fhared aniong the reft that were 
 filled up. 
 
 Like the Mammelukes, who, having been all 
 flaves, chofe their chiefs only from among thofe 
 who had rifen to honour through the path of fer- 
 vitude, the prefent Beys have been almoil all 
 flaves, bought for fifty or not more than an hundred 
 fequins. They are often Chriftian children, from 
 Georgia or Mingrelia. But thefe places have, fo:^- 
 
 fome 
 
7^ 
 
 NJEBÜHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 fome time, been conferred likewife on free mi 
 high-born Mahometans. Of the eighteen Beys 
 who were in office when I was in Egypt, only 
 five were of this latter charader ; the other thir- 
 teen v/erc defcended from Chriftian parents, and 
 had been flaves in their youth. 
 
 Our furprize at the elevation of fo many flaves 
 will ceafe, when we attend more particularly 
 to the manners of the people of the Eaft. The 
 Mahometans, in general, and efpecially the 
 Egyptians, treat their flaves with great kind- 
 nefs. The Beys, and the principal inhabitants 
 of Cairo, buy many Chrifl:ian children, whom 
 they educate with the fame care as their owi^ 
 children, in every thing neceflary to accomplifli 
 the character of a Mahometan lord. When 
 their education is finiflied, they procure them 
 employments in the army, Thofe emancipated 
 flaves retain the moft lively affedion to the ge- 
 nerous mailers to whom they owe their fortune^ 
 and even their moral exifl:ence. By this mea is 
 it often happens, that a mailer, wben he finds 
 any of his flaves to poflefs extraordinary talents^ 
 and tried fidelity, fpares no pains or expence to 
 raife him to a more confiderable employment 
 than that which he occupies himfelf. Thus the 
 mafter raifes his credit and influence in the ad» 
 miniftration^ by introducing into jt his own crea- 
 tures, 
 
 ft 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. ^1 
 
 It may not be improper to mention here fome 
 remarkable inftances of this generofity of mat 
 ters to their flaves. I knew a rich merchant^ 
 who kept only one fervant, and who ufed to 
 ride into the city no better mounted than upon 
 an afs. He had procured to feverai of his flaves 
 diftinguiiiied places in the Egyptian army : And 
 thofe o3icers, although now greatly his fuperiors^ 
 had all imaginable refped: for their old mailer, 
 and were upon all cocafions ready to defend and 
 proted him. 
 
 One Hafflin Kiaja, who was content himfelf 
 with the employment of Kiaja, or lieutenant 
 to the Aga of the janiflaries, had advanced feve- 
 rax hi^ flaves to the highefi; offices. His fon 
 Abaerachman Kiaja^ although, like him, only 
 lieutenant to the Aga of the janiflaries, was all- 
 powerful in Egypt when I was there ; not on 
 account of his employment, for it was inconfi- 
 derabje, but becaufe many of the lords of the 
 country owed their fortunes to his family. He 
 was, befldes, very rich ; and, while he com-» 
 manded refpedt, by the number of troops which 
 he maintained, gained the love of the people and 
 of the clergy by the liberality of his pious mor» 
 tifications. 
 
 But the mofl; extraordinary infl:ance is that of 
 Ibrahim Kiaja, who was never in any higher 
 employment than the lieutenant to the Aga of 
 
 the 
 
NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 the janiffaries. This man had been flave id 
 Othman Kiaja, who had been himXelf flave to 
 Hajfan Kiaja, mentioned above. Ibrafmn, by 
 means of his Haves, for whom he had obtained 
 the firfl employments, acquired fo great credit^ 
 that he for a long time governed Egypt. The 
 liumber of his creatures is a proof of his influ- 
 ence. In my time, of the eighteen Beys, eight 
 had been his flaves ; and of the feven Agas of 
 the great body of the militia, five were out of 
 his family, and owed to him their liberty and 
 fortunes. Many, alfo, of his old fiaves occupi- 
 ed coniiderable pofts in the army (n). 
 
 Among the Beys who held the government of" 
 Egypt, when I was in that country, was one^ 
 who, eveii theii, had begun to diftinguifh him- 
 felf, and has fince made a great figure. This' 
 was the famous Ali Bej^ who had been a Have 
 to Ibraham Kiaja, and had rifen to the em- 
 ployment of Schiech- el-helled, or governor of the 
 capital. After my departure, he was banifhed 
 to Gbajfa, But he returned in the year 1768, 
 put to death four Beys, and compelled the Pa- 
 cha to forbid four others to return, who had 
 faved themfelves by flight. Becoming thus all- 
 powerful, he afpired to the fovereignty of E- 
 gypt. With this view he entered into an al- 
 liance with Schiech Daher, and was«, fome time 
 
 after 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 81 
 
 after, llain in a battle with Bey ^ba Baah, who 
 had formerly been one of his adherents (o). 
 
 Next after the Beys, in power and dignity 
 are the principal officers of the forces. Of thefe^ 
 the feven Agas of the feven corps of the militia, 
 have feats in the divan ; as well as their feven 
 Kiajas or lieutenants, for the year when they 
 are in office. The janiflaries have the greateil 
 privileges, but are not the firll in rank among 
 thofe corps. 
 
 I could not learn what civil employments con- 
 fer a right to a feat in the divan^ I cannot 
 therefore enumerate the priefts or men of the 
 law v/ho have feats in it. 
 
 The members of this arifbocracy are extreme- 
 ly haughty and infolent. In Cairo no Chriftian 
 or Jev/ may appear on horfeback. They ride 
 only alTes, and mufl alight, upon meeting even 
 the moft inconiiderable Egyptian lord. Thofe 
 lords appear ahvays on horfeback, w^ith an info- 
 lent fervant before them, who, with a great 
 ftafF in his hand, warns the riders on affes to 
 fhew the due marks of refpeft to his mailer^ 
 crying out enfä, get down. If the infidel fail 
 to give inllant obedience, he is beaten till he a- 
 light. A French merchant was drubbed on an 
 occaiion of this kind. Our phyfician, too, w-as 
 infulted for being too tardy in alighting from 
 his afs. For this reafon, no European dares walk 
 
 Vol. L K- the 
 
82 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 the ftreets without having a- perfon to attend 
 him who knows all thofe lords, and can give 
 him notice when they approach. At firft, when 
 I went about in Cairo, I made my janiflary go 
 before, and my fer^^ant follow, both mounted on 
 afles as well as myfelf. But, after having the 
 mortification to fee thefe two MulTulmans re- 
 main upon their beafts, while I was obliged to 
 alight, I determined to walk on foot. 
 
 It is true, that in Egypt, thefe diflindions^ 
 between the Mahometans and perfons of other 
 religions, are carried a greater length, than any 
 where elfe through the Eaft. Chriftians and 
 Jews muft alight even before the houfe of the 
 chief Cadi ; before more than a fcore of other 
 houfes in which the magiflrates diftribute jus- 
 tice ; before the gate of the janilTaries ; and be- 
 fore feveral mofques. They are not even fuf- 
 fered to walk by feveral mofques in high vene- 
 ration for their fandity ; or by the quarter El- 
 Karafe, in which are a great many tombs 
 and houfes of prayer ; they are obliged to turn 
 but of their way, to avoid thefe places, as even 
 the ground on which they ftand, is fo facred in 
 the eyes of the people, that they will not fuffer 
 it to be profaned by the feet of infidels. 
 
 I know not, if there be a formal prohibition, 
 forbidding Chriftians to appear on horfeback in 
 the ftreets of Cairo. The laft Englifti Conful 
 
 appeared 
 
IK ARABIA, l^C, 
 
 83 
 
 appeared always on horfeback, dreffed like a 
 Mahometan lord. But he was very rich, and 
 gained the efteem of the great by giving them 
 fplendiid entertainments ; and of the common 
 people by diftributing large alms, whenever he 
 appeared in public. The other Confuls never 
 ride on horfeback, except when they go to have 
 ^n audience of the Pacha. As fhey then drefs 
 magnificently, they are expofed to the infults 
 of the people, who think our Ihort dreffes very 
 unbecoming for a perfon of dignity to wear. 
 At other times, thefe Confuls ride modeftly on 
 '4fles, and alight with due humility whenever 
 they meet an Egyptian lord. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 Of tht Police of the Cities. 
 
 In a city, like Cairo, inhabited by a number of 
 petty tyrants, who are ever at variance among 
 themfelves, and feeking each others ruin, and 
 who often proceed to open violence in deter- 
 mining their quarrels, private perfons can never 
 confider themfelves, as in abfolute fecurity. The 
 narrow nefs of the ftreets, and the crowds which 
 are coaftantly preffing through them, are favour- 
 able to diforder. Yet, fewer inftances of rob- 
 
 K 2 bery 
 
84 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 bery, theft, and murther, are heard of here^ than 
 in the great cities of Europe. A few regula- 
 tions, which are common through all the Eaft, 
 maintain tranquillity, and are nearly as carefully 
 obferved through all the cities of the province^ 
 as in the capital. 
 
 The magiflrates contribute to the public fe- 
 curity, by a very prompt adminidration of juf- 
 tice. The Cadi, and a number of other infe- 
 rior judges, difpofed through the different quar- 
 ters of the city, never leave their tribunals, but 
 are continually adive in m.aintaining order, and 
 pacifying the quarrels which arife, each in his 
 own diviiion. 
 
 At Cairo, and in all the other cities of the 
 Eaft, every trade has a head, who is intrufled 
 with authority over them, knows every indivi- 
 dual in the body to which he belongs, and is 
 in fome meafare anfwerable for them to Govern- 
 ment. Thofe heads of the trades preferve or- 
 der among the artifans, who are a numerous bo- 
 dy. Even the women of the tov/n, and thieves, 
 have each a head in the fame manner ; not that 
 thief or robber is a profeffion licenfed by law ; 
 but, the head is appointed to facilitate the reco- 
 very of flolen goods. At Tripoli in Barbary, 
 the black il||ves choofe a chief, Vvho is acknow- 
 ledged by t^e regency ; and this is a mean by 
 
 wbici^ 
 
IN -ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 which the revolt or elopement of thofe flaves is 
 often prevented. 
 
 The great officers of the police and of judice 
 vilit the different parts of the city, both by night 
 and day, attended by a numerous train, and at 
 feafons Vv^hen they cannot be expeded, in order 
 to infped the markets, and to take up fufpecled 
 perfons. Thofe officers give inftant fentence up- 
 on offenders, and condemn them to the bailina- 
 doe, without any form of procefs ; they will e- 
 ven hang them up if they take them in the ad. 
 The fear of being every moment furprifed by 
 thefe officers, reftrains the people from mutiny 
 or pillage. I have often witnefTed the terror 
 which thofe awful infpeclors infpire. At light 
 of them, my Egyptian fervant, was fo ilruck with 
 fear, that he ran haftily homewards, and I was 
 obliged to ufe force before I could make him 
 turn and proceed. 
 
 All the flreets of Cairo have gates which are 
 fliut at night ; but a porter waits to open to 
 thofe who can allege fatisfaclory reafons for 
 paffing fi'om one Hreet to another, and approach 
 with a hght in their hands. The man, for a 
 fmall acknowledgment, opens the gate, but fiops 
 every fufpecled perfon. This regulation pre^ 
 vents noäurnal aifembiies and tumults among 
 the people. It at the fame time foventireiy fe- 
 parates the feveral quarters of the city, that the 
 
 Beys 
 
S6 
 
 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 Beys often contend with open violence, while the 
 other inhabitants know nothing of the matter. 
 
 To fupport this eitabiifhment, there is a 
 chamber near each gate, occupied by a guard 
 of janiifaries, who prote^l the porter by night» 
 and, in the day, maintain order in the quarter^ 
 This guard is not relieved : the janiifaries of 
 whom it coniifts are liberally paid by the city ; 
 and they remain in this lucrative office, while 
 their conduct continues to give fatisfadion. 
 
 Chap. V\ 
 
 Of the Egyptian Agrkidiur^, 
 
 IIaving had few opportunities of obferving th^ 
 induftry of this people, I fhall have little to fay 
 concerning the ftate of the arts in Egypt, which 
 is not yet very flo^rifliing. But, there are fome 
 which afford articles of trade, and thefe it 
 y/ould be improper to overlook entirely. 
 
 Agriculture, the firft and moil important of 
 all arts, is not in a very thriving condition here ; 
 at leaft, if we compare the prefent produce of 
 the lands with what a country of fuch na- 
 tural fertility might be brought, by cultiva- 
 tion, to produce. I have hinted above at the 
 natural caufes of this decline. But the local 
 
 circuniflances 
 
IN AISJ^ElAj %J 
 
 drcumftances of this fingularly fituat^d country 
 are fuch, that even an unhappy mode of govern- 
 ment, and the mifery of the hulbandman, can- 
 not extinguifli the natural fertility of the foih 
 However ill-cultivated, it fiill continues to 
 compenfate richly the flight labour that is he- 
 flowed upon it, and to repay, with ufury, the 
 trifling expence laid out upon it. 
 
 The foil of the Lower Egypt feems to be a 
 fandy earth that has been gradually depofited by 
 the river (p). In a dry and torrid climate, andun- 
 der an unclouded flvy, fuch long feafons of 
 drought as Egypt experiences would render it 
 an arid and barren defert, vv^ere it not for the 
 fertilizing waters of the Nile, 
 
 Some deferiptions of Egypt would lead us to 
 think, that the Nile, v/hen it fweils, lays tb^ 
 whole province under Vv^ater. The lands ad-- 
 joining immediately to the banks of the river 
 are indeed laid under water. But the natural 
 inequality of the ground hinders it from over- 
 flowing the interior country. A great part of 
 the lands would therefore remain barren, were 
 not canals and refervoirs formed to receive wa~ 
 ter from the river, when at its greatefl height, 
 which is thus conveyed every where through 
 the fields, and referved for watering them, v» he n 
 Qccaflon requires. 
 
 The 
 
18 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 The befl part, therefore, of Egyptian agri- 
 culture, is the watering of their grounds. The 
 water which the hulbandman needs is often in 
 a canal, much beneath the level of the land 
 which he means to water. The water he muft 
 therefore raife to an equality with the furface of 
 the grounds, and difhribute over them, as it is 
 wanted. The great art of Egyptian hulbandry 
 is thus reduced to the having proper machines 
 for raifing the water, and enough of fmall ca- 
 nals judicioufly difpofed, to diftribute it. 
 
 Thofe machines are commonly very limple ; 
 a wheel with buckets forms their whole mecha- 
 nifm. The largeft are moved by oxen ; the 
 fmaller by the ftrength of the arm. It is not 
 eafy to fee how the Egyptians have come to be 
 fo much celebrated for the ingenuity of their 
 iftäjchines. Thefe are not of the invention of 
 the modern Egyptians, but have been ufed for 
 time immemorial, without receiving the ilightell 
 improvement. 
 
 Their inftruments of hufbandry are very bad. 
 Their plough, which they call Marha, is no 
 better than that of the Arabians, of which I fliali 
 hereafter have occafion to fpeak. To fmooth 
 the ground, they ufe a tree or a thick plank, 
 drawn by oxen yoked with cords. The driver 
 fits upon this machine ; for the Egyptian pea- 
 fants are not fond of walking. 
 
 Ther 
 
Tfiey ufe oxen, as the antients did, to beat 
 but their corn, by trampling upon the Iheaves, 
 änd dragging after them a clunify machine. 
 This machine is not, as in Arabia, a Hone cylin- 
 der ; nor a plank with fharp ftones, as in Syria ; 
 but a foil of fledge, confifting of three rollers fit- 
 ted with irons, which tiirn upon axles. A far- 
 mer choofes out a level fpot in his fields, and 
 has his corn carried thither in Iheaves, upon af- 
 fes or dromedaries. Two oxen are then yoked 
 in a fledge, a drivet gets upon it, and drives 
 them backwards and forwards upon the flieaves, 
 and frefli oxen fucceed in the yoke; from time 
 to time. By this öperatiori the chafi is very much 
 cut down. The whole i§ then winnowed, and 
 the pure grain thus feparated. This mode of 
 threfliing out the corn is tedious and inconve-- 
 tiient ; it defl:roys the chaff, and injures thß 
 quality of the grain, 
 
 I faw no wheeled carriages ih Egypt ; every 
 thing is conveyed backwards and forwards 011 
 camels or afles. When the canal of Cairo was 
 to be cleanfedp a peafant brought two oxen 
 drawing a fort of open tray upon the dry ground^ 
 and when it was filled, led theirl with it to the 
 bank. Within the city, wiiere the bottom of 
 the canal was not dry, the perfons employed in 
 cleanfing it, threw duft from the ftreet, upon the 
 tnire in the canal, and then, with their hands? 
 
 Vol, I, L int^ 
 
hiebuhr's travels 
 
 into panniers upon afles, and thus removed it 
 a proper diftance. Such is the boafted induftrj 
 of the Egyptians. 
 
 I have feen neither wind nor water-mill here. 
 A few large mills there are, which are moved 
 by oxen turning a poft that forms the axle-tree 
 of a large wheel. The poorer people have only 
 hand-mills to grind their corn ; and thefe they 
 ufe alfo in breaking the beans with v/hich the 
 aiTes are fed. 
 
 Recourfe is had to the impreffion of the ele- 
 ments, in the management of no other machine. 
 Oxen are employed in working the oil-mills? 
 faffron-preßes, 6tc. Among the different manu-» 
 failures of Egypt, that of faffron merits particu- 
 lar notice ; the procefs by which the Egyptians 
 prepare this article gives it a livelier colour than 
 what is made elfewhere. 
 
 Chap. VIL 
 
 Cff the Arts &f ^tiblimatmg Sal Ammoniac^ and of hatching 
 Chickens. 
 
 As Egypt is without wood, its inhabitants are 
 obliged to burn the dung of their domeftic ani- 
 mals. The dung of afles and camels is chiefly 
 
 ufed 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 §1 
 
 iifed for fuel, becaufe thefe two fpecies are the 
 moll numerous, and the moll common. Little 
 girls go about, gathering the dung in the ftreets, 
 and upon the highways ; they mix it with cut 
 Itraw ; and of this mixture make cakes, which 
 they place along the walls, or upon the declivi- 
 ty of fome neighbouring eminence, to dry them 
 in the fun. 
 
 The lower clafs live ufualh in chambers 
 vaulted with unburnt bricks. In theie cham- 
 bers, thofe cakes are burnt, with a little ftraw 
 intermixed, or inftead of it, (talks of certain 
 plants ; and this both for warming the apart- 
 ments in winter, and for dreliing the viduals. 
 A foot, very rich in falts, is thus produced, which 
 fallens to the roofs of the chambers. It is fold 
 to the merchants, who judge of its quality by its 
 tafte, and employ it in the manufadure of fal- 
 ammoniac. The foot of wood is of a very dif- 
 ferent nature. Sal-ammoniac was long thought 
 to be a production peculiar to Egypt. It was 
 thought that it could be obtained only from 
 camel's dung. But the truth is, that foot is e- 
 qually good for the manufadure of fal-animo- 
 niac, whether prepared from horfe's, afs's,lheep's 
 or camel's dung ; and this fait may be pixpared 
 in any other country, where dung is burnt in- 
 ftead of wood, as well as in Egypt, 
 
 L 2 Since 
 
p2 
 
 Since the nature and origin of fal-ammoniaq 
 have become better known, feveral authors have 
 defcribed the procefs ufed in Egypt for fubli« 
 mating the foot. It vi^ould be improper to re- 
 peat thofe defcriptions at full length. I lhall 
 only obferve, that this fublimation is perform» 
 ed in large bottles of thick glafs, lhaped like 
 bombs, and put into a furnace which is heated 
 with dung. For three days and three nights, 
 an equal heat is kept up, and that intenfe e- 
 nough to vitrify the potter's earth with which 
 the bottles are coated, to make them reßft the 
 violence of the fire. The furnace is then fuffer- 
 ed to cool, the bottles are broken, and the fal- 
 ammoniac taken out of their necks, into which it 
 has been raifed by fublimation. 
 
 Some travellers mention the mode of hatch- 
 ing chickens in ufe here, as a very wonderful 
 invention, and a very ufeful art. But it is much 
 negledled at prefent by the Egyptians, who pro- 
 bably did not find all the advantage in it that 
 is imagined. Unlefs at Cairo there are no fur- 
 iiaces for this purpofe ; thefe belong to the Pa- 
 cha ; they are ufed only in fummer, for the 
 hatching is faid not to fucceed fo well in win- 
 ter. Private perfons indeed carry fome eggs to 
 the furnaces, and pay fo much a-hundred, to a 
 perfon who undertakes to manage the hatching 
 0f theme The owners mark their eggs ; and 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 93 
 
 the hatcher is obliged to fhew the marks upoa 
 thofe which mifgive in the hatching. But I 
 did not learn that the number of chickens hatch- 
 ed in this way was very conflderable. 
 
 There is nothing extraordinary about the fur- 
 nace in which the procefs is perfoimed. The 
 great furnace contains feveral fmaller, arranged 
 in two divilions, where the eggs ly upon ftraw, 
 and are turned feveral times by night, as well 
 as by day. Whatever is peculiar in the con- 
 llrudion of the ovens, is intended folely for the 
 purpofe of keeping a gentle and equal heat« 
 This is efFedied by the circulation of the heatj, 
 through a fort of galleries which run along the 
 openings of the fmaller furnaces. They begin 
 with heating the large oven with fmoke, and the 
 proper degree of heat is kept up, by placing 
 lighted lamps in the galleries. That degree 
 muß: be precifely the fame as in the baths« 
 When the chickens are produced, they are fhut 
 up very clofe in a fquare apartment behde the 
 furnace, where they enjoy the fame degree 
 heat, as if under a hen. Thefe chickens fell ve-. 
 ry low, and are very puny. 
 
 What appeared lingular to me about this fur- 
 nace, was its being entirely buried in a fort of 
 hill. The chimnies and fpiracles are holes made 
 in the earth • and when one enters one of thofe 
 furnaces, it is like going into a grotto, I v/as 
 
 told 
 
94 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 told by perfons of intelligence, that this pofitio|i 
 was indifpeniibly neceilary, in order to the ob- 
 taining of the due degree of heat. - 
 
 , Ghap. VII, 
 
 Of the Oracle of JSgypt, 
 
 Egypt, although fo greatly declined from its an- 
 cient , grandeur, flill affords many produdions 
 which are capital articles in commerce. By its 
 fituation too, it is well fitt^.d to be an empo» 
 rium for foreign merchandife. It has commu- 
 nication by the Red Sea, with Arabia, Perfia^, 
 and the Indies ; by the Nile, upon one lide,, 
 with Nubia and Abyffinia, — and on the other, 
 with Europe, Barbary, Syria, and all the pro- 
 vinces of the Turkifh empire. While thus hap- 
 pily fituated for the advantages of navigation, it 
 lies alfo in the midft of thofe nations who are 
 accuftomed to travel in caravans, and is, of con- 
 fequence, the natural centre of their commerce. 
 
 Cairo, by means of thefe circumftances, has 
 become the reiidence of a great number of rich 
 merchants, who carry on trade in a manner very 
 different from that in which it is conducted in 
 Europe. For want of eflabliihments favourable 
 to a regular correfpond^nce of agents, merchants 
 
 aro 
 
iis ARABIA, iSci 
 
 are obliged to make frequent voyages for the 
 •management of their affairs, or to fend fome of 
 their fervants or flaves to ad: for them. 
 
 This inconvenience is, however, in part, com« 
 penfated by a cuftom generally prevalent through 
 the JGaft. Merchants from the fame country^ 
 and often fuch as deal in the fame forts of goods 
 lodge all in the fame kan, or earavanferai, fo 
 that you can eafil/ learn where to find what- 
 you want. A conilderable number of couriers^ 
 alwavs attend to guide or dire<5t enquirers upon 
 fuch occaaons. 
 
 Staying fo Ihort a time as I did in Egypt, I 
 liad not enough of opportunities to become fuf- 
 iicieatly acquainted with the nature of the E« 
 gyptian trade. But a very intelligent French 
 merchant favoured me with the communication 
 of fome important facts concerning both the fo- 
 reign and internal trade of this province. 
 
 I mull firft obferve, that feveral branches of 
 the internal trade, thofe of leather, rice, and 
 fienna, have greatly decayed, by the imprudent 
 condud of Government. Ibrahim Kiaja, who 
 for ten years governed almoft all Egypt, thought 
 fit to farm out the duties upon thefe branches. 
 The farmers have raifed the duties to fo high a 
 rate, that the articles upon which they are paid 
 are no longer faleable. 
 
 Raw 
 
Raw hides are ftill a confiderable objecl Iti 
 the Egyptian trade : about 80,000 hides of buf- 
 faioes, camels, cows, and oxen, are exported 
 yearly. Near 10,000 go to Marfeilles, and a 
 Hill greater number to Italy. The buffaloes 
 hides being thicker and heavier than the others, 
 are chiefly tranfported to Syria. As the paftures 
 of Lower Egypt are excellent, the hides of its 
 cattle, in coiifequence of their being fo well fed, 
 are of the very beft quality for leather. A pro- 
 digious quantity of thofe cattle are killed in the 
 months of the facrifices, that is, while the piL 
 grims are aSembled at their devotions at 
 Mecca. 
 
 1, 8 00,000 pound weight of faffron is annually 
 prepared in Egypt. The greater part of it goes 
 to Marfeilles and Italy ; the reft to Syria and 
 Arabia. The beft faffron grows in the vicinity 
 of Cairo ; that of Upper Egypt is not reckoned 
 fo good. 
 
 The exportation both of lint aüd linen- cloth 
 is an important article in this trade. They arc 
 exported to Syria, Arabia, Turkey, and even 
 to Marfeilles and Leghorn. What cotton re- 
 mains, after the home-confunipt is fupplied^, 
 goes to France and Italy. But this is not much^ 
 however, for no cotton grows except in Lower 
 Egypt. There is even fugar produced here, the 
 «anes growing in Upper Egypt ; but it is fo 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C^ 
 
 92 
 
 |)repared, that they cannot fell it fo cheap 
 the American fugars. 
 
 Were the trade in rice under no rellraint, a 
 confiderable quantity might be exported. But, 
 for the exportation of this article, the ports of 
 Jgypt are fluU, and therefore the Europeans 
 dare not carry off any of it, unlefs by Damiettaa 
 The Americans arc even faid to have brought 
 rice hither, for fome time, from Carolina : And 
 if this be fo, there can be no better proof of 
 the aftonifliing decline of agriculture in Egypl^> 
 
 Sal ammoniac, yellow wax, and fenna, whiclx 
 come, in part, from Upper Egypt, are articles 
 that can never contribute greatly to increafe the 
 opulence of a country. The adminiftration ap- 
 pear to gain more by thefe articles than the tra^ 
 ders ; for the duties charged upon them are in 
 no j uft proportion to their value.^ 
 
 In exchange for thefe commodities, with 
 which Egypt fupplies oth^r nations, its inhabi- 
 tants need various articles that are imported 
 from other countries. The French export at 
 leaft 800 bales a- year of cloth of Lapguedoc to 
 Egypt ; for even the very (ervants make a point 
 of having a new fuit every year, to wear at the 
 feaft of Beiram, The Emir-Hadgi of the Mec- 
 ca caravan ufes no fewer than feventy bales him- 
 felf ; for he is obliged to make prefents of fuits 
 #f clothes to the Arabs, who meet the caravan 
 
 YoL. L M upon, 
 
98 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 upon their journey, as well as to a number of 
 perfons at Mecca. The Egyptians never drefs 
 in filk ; when, by any accident, it happens that 
 they do, they prefer the rich ftuifs of the iile of 
 Scio to the manufadures of France and Italy. 
 
 Venice and Marfeilies difpofe of more than a 
 thoufand bales of paper in Egypt, every year • 
 one part of it intended for the confumpt of E- 
 gypt, the other for Arabia. All the writing- 
 paper muft be glazed : for the people of the 
 Eaft ufe reeds and very thick ink, in writing, 
 A great quantity of paper is ufed in windows ; 
 for, in this hot country, panes of glafs are fel- 
 dorn to be feen 
 
 The Europeans likewife import cochineal in- 
 to Egypt, 80 barrels of which are ufed there^ 
 and 200 fent to India. Were not the induitry 
 of the Dutch fo well known, it might appear 
 furprifing that the Egyptians Ihould be reduced 
 to the neceffity of fupplying themfelves with 
 fpiceries from European merchants, from w^hom 
 they purchafe pepper, cloves, ginger, 8ce. It 
 is more natural to fee Egypt receive from us 
 the produdions of thofe arts in which we excel^^ 
 fuch as needles, cutlery ware, lead, mercury 
 &c. 
 
 Coffee is an article that is both confumed in 
 the country, and conveyed through it. As this 
 is the favourite beverage of the Turks, they are 
 
 deiiroug 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 99 
 
 defirous of having it in the mod genuine purity^ 
 The importation of American, and the expor- 
 tation of Arabian coffee, are equally forbidden. 
 But thefe prohibitions are eluded, by means of 
 prefents to the great, and to the officers of the 
 cufloms ; fo that the Europeans procure, every 
 year a conliderable quantity of their Levant cof- 
 fee out of Egypt. But a A^ery fmail quantity^ 
 indeed, of the ifland coffee is ufed, and folely in 
 mixture with that of Yemen. It is not long 
 lince coffee from Martinico was the only fort 
 drunk in Upper Egypt ; but it became dear 
 during the lad Wctr. The Egyptians then re- 
 folved to bring good coffee from Arabia, by the 
 way of CaJ/lir, and they have it at prefent for 
 ä reafonable price ; whereas that of the Weft In- 
 dies was fold exorbitantly high. 
 
 Gum-arabic is one of the mofl confiderable ar- 
 ticles of commerce that pafs through Egypt. 
 Every year, in the month of Odober, two or 
 three fmall caravans of the Arabs, from the 
 neighbourhood of Par and Mount Sinai, arrive 
 with about 70,000 pound w^eight of the gum. 
 Thofe Arabs are very much in the w^ay of de- 
 bafing their goods with an intermixture of ex- 
 traneous matters ; and yet oblige the Mahome- 
 tan merchants to take them without any exa« 
 mination of their quality. Out of an averfion to 
 cities, or probably to avoid coi'poral punifhment 
 
 M 2 for 
 
io6 Niebühr's travels 
 
 for their frauds and robberies, thefe ArabiäM 
 never enter Cairo. They encamp at half a 
 league's diftance from the walls. The mer- 
 chants are obliged to go out to them, in order 
 to tranfad for the purchafe of the gum. The 
 Arabs don't take money, but clothes, and fuch 
 other things as they ftand in need of in the de- 
 fert. 
 
 A great many caravans arrive from different 
 parts of Africa, in the months of June and July, 
 with three different forts of this fame gum. A 
 quantity comes alfo from Habbefch, by the way of 
 Djidda and Suez, which, though inferior in qua- 
 lity, palfes all into Europe, which receives an- 
 nually 500,000 pound weight of this article. 
 
 Thofe African caravans bring, at the fame 
 time, feveral other commodities ; flaves, ivory 
 otlrich- feathers, tamarinds, and gold duft. They 
 take, in exchange, Egyptian cloth, falfe pearls 
 coral, arms, and even full fuits of clothes, which 
 the inhabitants of Cairo make up, according ta 
 their tafte. This is what has, of late, increaf- 
 ed the demand for broad-cloth in Egypt. 
 
 SECTION 
 
In ÄRABIAj ^C, 
 
 SECTION I¥. 
 
 Olr THE MANNERS OF THE ORIENTALS IN GENE- 
 RAL, AN© PARTICULARLY OF THE EGYPTIANS^ 
 
 Chap. I. 
 
 Of the Inhabitants of Cairo and its Neighhourhocdo 
 
 A.RABS arid Turks from all the provinces is 
 the Ottoman empire, form the moft numerous 
 part of the inhabitants of Cairo. There are al« 
 fo Magrehbins^ or Arabs from Barbary, other 
 AfricanSj Perüans, and Tartars ; All thefe are 
 Mahometans, and moll of them attached to the 
 fed of Schafei, 
 
 After the Mahometans, the Copts are the next 
 irx numbers. They occupy whole quarters of 
 the city, and very large ftreets. They have a 
 great many churches, both in the capital, and at 
 Mafr-el-atik in its vicinity. Their patriarch 
 alfo refides at Cairo,- 
 
KIEBUHr's TRÄYEtS 
 
 The Jews are the moil numerous clafs, next 
 after the Mahometans and the Copts. Some 
 Pharifees or Talmudifts, relide here, as well as 
 Karaites, who, though not numerous, have a fy- 
 nagogue of their own. The Talmudills are nu-= 
 merous and powerfuL They have long farmed 
 all the cuftoms ; an undertaking which brings 
 them both wealth and credit. In the republican 
 Government of Egypt, they find it eafier to gain 
 Heady protectors, than in the other provinces of 
 Turkey, where all depends upon the caprice of 
 a j^acha who knows not how foon he may lofe 
 his place, or of the fuperintendant of the cuf- 
 toms who refides in Conilantinople. One proof 
 of the confequence which the Jews enjoy under 
 the ariflocracy of Cairo, is, that tile offices of the 
 cuitoms are Ihut upon their fabbath, and no 
 goods can pafs on that day, although belonging 
 to Chriftians or MuiTiilmans. 
 
 The Greeks have only two churches in Cairo, 
 in one of which the fervice is performed by the 
 patriarch of Alexandria, and in the other by the 
 bifhop of Mount Sinai. The Armenians, who 
 are not numerous, have only one church, but 
 that a handfome one. From Europe here are 
 feveral French and Italian merchants, but no 
 Dutchmen ; yet the Dutch have a Conful here, 
 as well as France and Venice. 
 
IN ARABIA, '(Je. 
 
 203 
 
 If Cairo come ever to want European mer- 
 chants, yet it is not probable, that it will be 
 without eccleßaflics of the Pvoman Communion. 
 lleve are Jefuits, Capuchins, Cordeliers, and Fa- 
 thers of the Society for the propagation cf the 
 Chriftian Faith. Thefe monks are all eager to 
 make profelytes, and fometimes fucceed fo far as 
 to convert fome fchifmatic Chriftian of the Eaft, 
 The Government readily tolerates thefe m.odera 
 apoftles, on account of the profits which they 
 derive from the quarrels which the converfions 
 produce between the apoilate, and the members 
 of the Communion which he forfakes. The Pa- 
 cha is often not content with fining the contend- 
 ing parties, but examines the affair to the bot- 
 tom, and exacts confiderable funis from the monks 
 befides. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Cairo is partly inha- 
 bited by Copts, but chiefly by Arabs, wandering 
 or fettled. Thefe deferve to be more particular- 
 ly confidered. 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Of the Copts. 
 
 If an ancient origin, and illuflrious anceflors 
 could confer merit, the Copts would be an high-. 
 
104 
 
 niebühr's trav^l^ 
 
 ly eftimable people They are defcended fron^ 
 the ancient Egyptians ; and the Turks, upoi^ 
 this account, call them, in derilion, the pofte^ 
 lity of Pharaoh. But their uncouth figure, thei^ 
 ftupidity, ignorance, and wretchednefs, do little 
 credit to the fovereigns of ancient Egypt. 
 
 They have lived for 20Q0 years under the dor 
 minion of different foreign conquerors, and hav^ 
 experienced many vicifiitudes. of fortune. They 
 have loft their manners, their language, their re- 
 ligion, and almoft their exiftence. They are 
 reduced to a fmaU number, in comparifon of th? 
 Arabs, who have poured like a flood over this 
 country. Of the diminution of the numbers of 
 the Copts fome idea may be formed from the re- 
 dudion of the number of their biihops, Thej 
 were feventy in number, at the period of th^ 
 Arabian conqueft. They are now only twelve, 
 and moft of thefe fettled in Upper Egypt, t^ 
 which the ancient i^habitants feem to have re- 
 tired from the centre of the conq^eä. 
 
 The Egyptians have been always diftinguifli-, 
 <?d as a melancholy, conceited, and fuperftitious, 
 race. Their pofterity rnaintain with the fame 
 pbftinacy, the opinions which they were com^ 
 pelled by the Greeks to adopt. The Copts have 
 an inflirmountable averfion to the Romifh 
 Church. Their patriarch is at the fame tim« 
 
 heai 
 
IN ARABIA, Wc, 105 
 
 tead of the Abyffinian Church, whither he fends 
 a bifliop to govern the clergy. 
 
 It would be a matter of lingular importance 
 to recover the knowledge of the ancient Coptic^ 
 the Rifan Pharaoun, or language of Pharaoh. 
 In Egypt, we fee, even on the mummies, al- 
 phabetical infcriptions, which are very different 
 from the hieroglyphics, and, ifdecyphered, might 
 throw light upon the ancient hiftory of Egypt, 
 and help to an explanation of the hieroglyphics. 
 But this language of the ancient Egyptians feems 
 to be. entirely loft. The Ptolomies were at pains 
 to fubftitute the Greek, inftead of the ancien^ 
 language of their new fubjeds. The Greek em- 
 perors of Conftantinople forbade the ufe of the 
 Coptic in eonverfation, under pain of death ; 
 and obliged the Egytians to adopt the Greek, 
 inftead of the Pharaonic alphabet. Hence the 
 modern Coptic, in which thefe people have their 
 verfion of the Holy Scriptures, is a mixture of 
 Greek and old Egyptian. The Sultans of Egypt 
 effaced the remains of this language, thus cor- 
 j.upted, by forbidding it to be fpoken, under the 
 fame penalty, and introducing, in its room, the 
 Arabic, which is the prefent language of the 
 Copts. The liturgy is ftill read in the modern 
 Coptic ; but the people underftand it not, till 
 explained from an old Arabic tranflation, that 
 is written befide the text. Even the priefts un- 
 
 VoL. I. N derftand 
 
io6 niebuhr's travels 
 
 derfland not the language of their Scriptures^ 
 and can fcarce read the charaders. 
 
 Mr Forikal became acquainted with a Copt, 
 named Ibrahirn Ennafch^ a man of learning and 
 poliflied manners, whofe employment was in 
 copying the books of the liturgy ; by which he 
 earned at the rate of half-a- crown in three days. 
 My friend faw, in the hands of this Egyptian? 
 a dictionary of a great many genuine old Coptic 
 words, with their explanations in Arabic. He 
 was alfo informed by Ibrahim Ennafch, that 
 there Hill are, in feveral convents in Upper E- 
 gypt, a good number of Coptic books ; but his 
 informer knew nothing of their nature or con- 
 tents. The clergy conceal thefe books with 
 great care, for fear, as they fay, left the Catholics 
 carry them off, and, after faliifyjing their con- 
 tents, print them in Europe. Thus they have 
 hitherto remained unknown. If thofe ecclefiaf- 
 tics could be perfuaded that we are not all of 
 the fame party as the Pope, and were at the 
 fame time gratified with fomething to alleviate 
 their extreme poverty, copies of the books in 
 this hidden literary treafure might fiirely be ob- 
 tained o 
 
 Gha^. 
 
If>T AkABtA, "^C, 
 
 107 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 Of the Arabians in Egypt, 
 
 The Arabians appear to have conquered and 
 fettled in Egypt, at feveral different periods, 
 very diftant from one another. Veiliges may 
 flill be traced which prove their ancient refi- 
 dence in this country. The fhepherd-kings, 
 w^hofe memory was in abhorrence among the 
 Egyptians, mufl have been leaders of troops of 
 wandering Arabs. 
 
 But, whatever may have paiTed in thofe re- 
 mote ages, lince Egypt was conquered by the 
 Saracens, the greater part of its inhabitants 
 have been Arabs. Of thefe, fome are fettled in 
 the cities ; others live in the villages, and culti- 
 vate the ground ; and the reft wander through 
 the country with their cattle, and encamp in 
 tents. 
 
 When I come to fpeak of the Arabian nation 
 in general, I fliall then have occaüon to fpeak 
 of its different branches, their manners and cuf- 
 toms : Here I fhall only mention fome particu- 
 lars relative to the Egyptian branch, 
 
 N 3 The 
 
I08 NIEBUHR's TRAVELS 
 
 The Arabian inhabitants of the cities of this 
 province have nothing peculiar to diftinguifh 
 them from thofe in the other cities of the Eaft 
 or in Arabia, in particular. And the Arabian, 
 peafant of Egypt equally refembles the other 
 peafants of the Eaft. Yet, the pofterity of ftran= 
 gers fettling in Egypt are thought to degenerate, 
 Arabian horfes, too, lofe their ftrength and met- 
 tle here. Egyptian peafant is a denomination 
 of contempt through Arabia. 
 
 The Bedouins, or wandering Arabs, being 
 free, almoft independent, and rather tributary 
 allies, than fubjeds of the Egyptian Govern- 
 ment, are the moft remarkable branch of the 
 nation. They are divided into tribes, govern- 
 ed by hereditary chiefs, called Scbiecbs, and 
 thefe fubordinate to a great Schiech, who has 
 authority over feveral tribes^ Upon paying a 
 certain tribute to Government, the Bedouins ar^ 
 permitted to feed their flocks through the rich 
 pafturage -grounds of Egypt. But they frequent- 
 ly abufe this per million, and pillage, without 
 diftindion, as well the hufbandmen in the dif- 
 tricls in which they encamp, as thofe travel- 
 lers who have the misfortune to fall into their 
 hands. They are ready, too, to take part in the 
 dilTeniions which frequently arife in this mili- 
 tary republic. When Government attempts to 
 punilh them, or to conftrain them to their du- 
 
7'. /( ■(/. 
 
 I 
 
EN ARABIA, l^C, 
 
 ty, they either defend themfelves by force, of 
 retire into the defarts till their mifdemeanours 
 be forgotten. 
 
 They are almoft always on horfeback, and 
 armed with a lance,— at leaft the more conlide- 
 rable among them,— and ranging from place to 
 place : The care of their cattle, and excurfions 
 for robbery or amufement, are all their employ- 
 ment. 
 
 Independence renders them haughty and in- 
 folent ; and their idle, unfettled way of life^ 
 with the poverty w^hich naturally attends it^ 
 probably infpire that fpirit of theft and robbery 
 by which they are fo much diftinguifhed. I have 
 already had occafion to mention fome inflances 
 of their propenfity to infefl the country and in- 
 fult paflengers. Mr Forlkal and I had a new 
 proof of it in an excurfion which we made to 
 the Pyramids. Setting out from Geefli, we 
 met two Bedouins on horfeback, whom we hir- 
 ed to guide and efcort us. Juft as we reached 
 the foot of the Pyramids, we obferved an Arab 
 riding up to us at full gallop. He v/as a young 
 Schiech, and behaved at firfl: to us with great 
 civility : But he foon changed his tone, threat- 
 ened us with his lance, and ordered us to give 
 him money, before we quitted the fpot« Upon 
 Mr Forlkal's refufing to comply with fo infolent 
 a demand, the Schiech feized his turban, and 
 
 held 
 
110 NiEBUHR^S TRÄ-^Etl 
 
 held his piftol to my breaft, when I offered to 
 defend my friend. The two Bedouins, our 
 guides, made no attempt to interpofe, either out 
 of refped to the Schiech, or from natural per- 
 fidy. We were at laft obliged to gratify the 
 robber. We returned another time better at- 
 tended. But this did not hinder the Arabs 
 from gathering about us, and Healing whatever 
 they could lay their hands on, unobferved. 
 
 The Arabic language has, from the circum" 
 fiances here enumerated, become the language 
 of Egypt : But, Jn the mouths of the Egyptians, 
 and thofe vagabond Bedouins, it difplays little 
 of its genuine purity. Mr Forlkal left a long 
 lift of words ufed at Cairo, which differ entire- 
 ly from the words expreffive of the fame ideas 
 in the diale6l of Yemen. The laft, being the 
 dialed: of a province fhut up in a manner from 
 ftrangers, and therefore not liable to be debafed 
 by any mfuiion of foreign idioms, is to be re- 
 garded as the teft of the other dialedls. That 
 of Egypt is contaminated with forms of expref- 
 11 o a i'rom all the diverfity of languages which 
 the viciilitudes of its fortune and the diverfity 
 of its inhabitants have occafionally introduced 
 into that country. 
 
 Chap. 
 
IN ARABIA, t^C, 
 
 Chap. IV, 
 
 Of the Drefs of the Men in the Eaß. 
 
 There is little diverfity in the manners and cuf- 
 toms of many of the Mahometan nations in the 
 Eaft. Wherefore, to avoid repeating afterwards 
 what I am ta mention here, I fliail explain at 
 fome length whatever is common to ail thofe 
 nations, and which will therefore refer to the 
 Egyptians among others. 
 
 We have feveral good defcriptions of the drefs 
 of the people of the Eaft, with fuitable engrav- 
 ings accompanying them. Thofe in RulTel's 
 defcription of Aleppo, are the beft and the lat- 
 eft. Yet, upon a comparifon of the plates in 
 Ruflel's work, with the drefs at prefent worn 
 through the Ottoman empire and in Egypt, a 
 great difterence may be perceived. What hap- 
 pens in Europe, happens likewife in Turkey ; 
 fafliions change ; and the drefs of the great, 
 and of the capital are imitated through the pro- 
 vinces. 
 
 The drefs of the Eaftern nations, fome pecu- 
 liar cities amonr' Thi:h we obfervedwith particu- 
 lar attention, >^ .i L apted to their climate and 
 manners. As tney are accuftomed to fit crofs- 
 
 legged, 
 
112 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 legged, they wear their clothes very wide. - And 
 being obliged to exprefs their refped for holy 
 places, and for the apartments of the great, by 
 leaving their flioes at the gate, they find it me- 
 ceflary to drefs fo as that they may fiiffer no in- 
 convenience from the want, .of them. In many 
 countries of the Eaft, the climate is very un> 
 equal, with fudden variations from heat to cold. 
 The inhabitants of fuch countries are obliged to 
 clothe themfelves warmer, than we fhould think 
 necelTary, and to wear feveral pieces of drefs, one 
 over another, which they may lay alide and re- 
 fume, as the temperature of the air varies. 
 
 The Turks, who fet the falhion to a great part 
 of the Eaft, wear a fliirt with very wide fieeves, 
 and, under it, linen drawers joining ftock- 
 ings of the fame ftuff, over which they put 
 upon their feet teiliks, which are a fort of very 
 thin flippers. Above thefe ftockings, drawers, 
 and fhirt, they put on a fchakfchir, or large red 
 breeches, to v/hich are fewed other flippers, or 
 meßs, as thin as the firft. Above the fchakfchir, 
 they wear an enteri, or vefl, which falls under 
 the knees ; and over the whole, a caftan or robe, 
 reaching down to the feet. That it may not 
 incommode them in walking, they take up a part 
 of the caftan by means of a broad girdle ; in 
 which is fixed the Canjar, or poignard, which 
 the Turks eonftantly wear. Over the caftan, 
 
 they 
 
IN ARAEIA, i^. 
 
 "3 
 
 they put on a great coat with very fliort lleeves, 
 which for winter is lined with furs, but is with» 
 out them when intended to be worn in the o- 
 ther feafons of the year. They often cover, all 
 thefe pieces of drefs with another peilice or b^^ 
 ?iifch, or furtout of thick cloth. 
 
 Such a quantity of clothes would be too ex- 
 penflve for the common people, and inconveni- 
 ent for them to Vv^ear at their work. They are 
 content with the breeches, the enteri, and the 
 benifcb. The peafant wears only the Ihirt and 
 drawers. A drefs confifting of fo many differ- 
 ent pieces is not convenient for travelling. Up- 
 on a journey, therefore, the Turks carry a large 
 blue bag in which they put up their long clothes. 
 They wrap their feet in pieces of cloth, and put 
 on wide boots ; and although this mode of dref- 
 ling the legs and feet be not the moll conveni- 
 ent for walking, yet it is v/armerthan our flock- 
 ings. 
 
 The drefs of the Chriflians in the Eaft is near- 
 ly the fame as that of the Turks. Only they 
 are prohibited the uie of bright -coloured fluffs. 
 They may not Vv^ear boots of yellow leather. 
 And they mufl: ufe dark colours in painting their 
 houfes. European Chriflians are allowed to 
 wear yellow leather, and clothes of any colour, 
 except green, which, rather by cuflom than by 
 
 Vol. I. O law. 
 
114 
 
 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 law, is referved for the peculiar ufe of Muflul- 
 mans. 
 
 All the inhabitants of the Eaft, except fomc 
 Mahometan clergy, of the orders of the Dervifes 
 and Snatons, fhave their heads, referving only a 
 fmall tuft of their hair. This cuftom has been 
 blamed by fome perfons in Europe, as rendering 
 apoplexies more frequent among us than they 
 were among our forefathers y but it appears not 
 to produce any fuch efFeds among the Turks, 
 for they are not fubjed to apoplexy. They per« 
 haps guard againft it, by covering their heads 
 better than we. Their lhaved heads feem to 
 require a warmer covering, at leaft, and indeed 
 they wrap it up to a degree that feems to us very 
 unfuitable to the warmth of the climate. Nei- 
 ther do they uncover it in expreflion of refpecl 
 our mode of falutation feems to them very ab- 
 furd and ridiculous. 
 
 Through the Eaft there prevails a great varie- 
 ty of modes in covering the head ; which, at 
 firft, feems inconfiftent with the conftancy in 
 fuch matters for which thefe people are diftin- 
 guifhed. This diverlity, however, depends not 
 on faftiion. Differences in the head-drefs ferve 
 as diftindive marks of the nation, the condition, 
 and the employment of the perfons who wear 
 them. They even ferve as livery to fervants ; 
 -each clafs wear a particular form of bonnet, 
 
 correfp ending 
 
IN ARABIA, ^r. 115 
 
 eorrefpo. ding to the nature of their bufinefs. It 
 is very convenient to find among perfons with 
 whom one is unacquainted, fuch external marks 
 indicating their refpeäive conditions. 
 
 Thefe various head-drelTes, which the Euro- 
 peans confound under the general name of Tur- 
 ban, may be all reduced to three forts. The 
 firß is a very high cloth bonnet lined with cot- 
 ton, and wrapped round upon the under part 
 with a piece of w^hite mufiin. This head-drefs, 
 which is called the Kaouk, is nothing but the 
 Turcoman bonnet, with fome ornaments, and is 
 therefore to be confidered as a Turkifh piece of 
 drefs. The fecond is a cloth bonnet, fmaller, 
 and much lower than the former ; it is alfo 
 wrapped upon the under part with a piece of li- 
 nen, and then receives the name of jafch or tur- 
 han ; this is the national head-drefs of the Ara- 
 bians, and by them the fafhion has been com- 
 municated through the reft of Afia. The third 
 is alfo a bonnet; of cloth, lined with cotton, of 
 various heights in the crown j but inftead of be- 
 ing wrapped with linen, bordered with a piece 
 of lambfkin. It is called Kalpak, and is of Tar- 
 tar origin, aUhough now worn by many of th« 
 Chriftians in the Eaft, 
 
 All the great men in Turkey, wear the Kamk 
 of yellovv cloth, with a piece of fine white muf- 
 lin wrapped round it. The Schenffs, or defcen- 
 
 O 2 dents 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 dents of Mahomet, although in little eftimation, 
 and fcarcelj ever admitted to any public em- 
 ployments, diftinguifh themfelves by a piece of 
 green linen, rolled round their turbans, or Ka- 
 ouks. The Copts, and fuch Chriftians as ufe not 
 the Kalpak, wear a piece of linen ftriped blue 
 and white round their Kaoiik, which is common- 
 ly niade of red cloth. They are imitated in this 
 faftiion by fuch Europeans as alTume the drefs 
 of the country. Even the clergy wear it, as 
 well as others ; except the cordeliers and capu- 
 chins. Thefe lafl wear, through the whole Eaft, 
 the dirty tattered drefs of their orders, which is 
 very difgufting to the Mahometans, who confi- 
 der neatnefs and cleanlinefs as parts of religious 
 duty. 
 
 Chap. V 
 
 Of the Drefs of the W omen. 
 
 It is more difficult for a traveller to become ac- 
 quainted with the drefs of the women than with 
 that of the miCn in the Eaft. So far from being 
 permitted to enter the harem, a ftranger muft 
 not even fee a Mahometan lady in her own houfe. 
 
 It is impoffible to obferve their drefs, when 
 one meets them in the ftreet ; for the MulTuL 
 
 mans 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 117 
 
 maris think it extreme indifcretioDj or even an in- 
 fult, to look with an eye of curiofity upon a vv^o- 
 man in the ftreet. Befides, they wrap them- 
 felves fo <:lofely up, when they go abroad, that 
 it would be vain to attempt to diftinguifli the 
 different parts of their drefs. At Conftantinople, 
 when they appear in the flreet, they have fo 
 much white linen about them, that nothing but 
 the eyes of the walking mummies can be feen. 
 At Cairo, they conceal the head, and a part of 
 the body, with a large black veil ; and their rich 
 habits are covered with a fort of large wrapper 
 of plain linen, which they put off, when they 
 enter the apartments of their friends. 
 
 As I never had any opportunity of feeing 
 a lady of diftinclion, I muft confefs my igno- 
 rance upon this head, and refer the reader 
 to Lady Mary V/ortley Montague's admira- 
 ble Letters. She was admitted into many ha- 
 reans, and had opportunities of feeing women 
 of rank in full drefs. She has been fiifpecled 
 of exaggerating the beauty, magnificence and 
 politenefs of the ladies of the Eaft. But I 
 know, from what I have feen and heard, that 
 her defcriptions are true. She has indeed con- 
 fined herfelf chiefly to what merited praife about 
 thofe ladies, while other travellers have fpoken 
 only of their defe6ls. But, whatever may be 
 faid of the truth of her relation, I can only fp^^k 
 
 of 
 
fiebuhr's travels 
 
 of the drefs of the lower claffes of women, and 
 make fome general remarks. 
 
 All the women in the Eall wear drawers? 
 even where the men do not wear breeches. The 
 poorer fort wear nothing but tbofe drawers, and 
 a long blue fhirt. But, although in this man- 
 ner half-naked, they all, without exception^ 
 wear veilss 
 
 The veil feems to be the moft important piece 
 of their drefs : their chief care is always to hide 
 their face. There have been many inflances of 
 women, who, upon being furprifed naked, ea- 
 gerly covered their faces, without Ihewing any 
 concern about their other charms. The Egyp- 
 tian peafants never give their daughters fhirts 
 till they are eight years of age. We often faw 
 little girls running about quite naked, and gaz* 
 ing at us as we palTed : None, however, had her 
 face uncovered ; but all wore vails. The veilj 
 fo indifpenfible a piece of drefs with the female 
 fex, is a long, triangular piece of linen cloth, 
 fixed to the head, and falling down before, fo 
 as to cover the whole face, except the eyes. 
 
 In fome provinces, efpecially in Syria, the 
 women vv^ear a fort of filver or lackered hatj 
 Ihaped like a cone, a platter, or fome other fan- 
 taitic form. The Arabian women, in Egypt 
 and in the defert, wear a number of fingular or- 
 raafnents ; large metal rings in their ears or no- 
 
 - ;fe^, 'y 
 
IN ARABIA, 119 
 
 l*es ; others, of the fame kind, upon their legs, 
 immediately above the ancle, and upon their 
 arms, as bracelets ; on their lingers, fmall ring^ 
 of little value ; pieces of coral hung about their 
 faces ; and necklaces of all forts. They fome- 
 times hang fmall bells to the trelTes of their 
 hair ; and the young girls fix them to their 
 feet. Some fancy themfelves highly adorned by 
 the impreflion of indelible blue marks, by punc- 
 tures upon the dieeks, the chin, and the other 
 parts of the body. Some paint their hands yel- 
 low, and their nails red, fancying thefe whim- 
 lical colourings irrefiftible charms. 
 
 The drefs of the Greek women is not materi- 
 ally different fram that of the Turkifli. As Eu- 
 ropeans occafionally marry wives out of Greek fa- 
 milies, we have frequent opportunities of feeing 
 in what manner they drefs ; and, by this meanSj, 
 we are enabled to form fome idea of the Maho- 
 metan women of rank. 
 
 All the Greek ladies wear drawers reaching 
 to their feet ; the lower part of their drefs is in^ 
 deed nearly the fame as that of the men ; and 
 they walk, like them, in large flippers. Over 
 the drawers, they wear a iliirt of fine linen, and, 
 over it, a vefi, bound with a girdle of confide- 
 rable breadth. Over the veil is a habit, or pel- 
 lice with fliort lleeves, not ftretching more than 
 a fpan under the fhoulder. The head-drefs va- 
 ries 
 
I20 
 
 ni^buhr's travels 
 
 ries with the caprice of fafhion ; and they are, 
 if poffible, more attentive to it than even our Eu- 
 ropean ladies. Nay, fome of thefe head-dref- 
 fes appeared to me more elegant than thofe worn 
 in Europe ; their drefs has at leafl fomething' 
 more rich and fplendid in its appearance. But, 
 to view thofe Eaftern beauties with admiration, 
 we mull fee them on their fophas ; v/hen they 
 move, their graces difappear. Being accuftom- 
 ed to lit crofs-legged, and to vv^ear a fort of thin 
 leather boots, in wide flippers, they walk very 
 aukwardly. European ladies, living in Tur- 
 key, ufe Ihoes, even though dreifed, in other 
 refpefe, like the women of the Eaft. But it is 
 eafy to diftinguiih, by their walking, whether 
 they are accuftomed to lit crofs-legged, or con- 
 tinue to ufe chairs. At Conftantinople, the la- 
 dies have carriages, but feldom ufe them. The 
 Turkiüi carriages refemble ours externally, on- 
 ly they are without doors, and have wooden 
 blinds inflead of fafhes of giafs ; you enter by a 
 ladder placed to the back of the carriage. With- 
 in, inftead of feats, are carpets, on which the 
 Turks fquat themfelves. 
 
 As carriages of all kinds are unknown at Ca- 
 iro, women of the highefl rank, as well as thofe 
 of the lower clalTes, are obliged to ride upon 
 aifes. Out of refped to the fex, the wives of 
 
 Jews 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 121 
 
 Jews and Chriftians are fuifered to ride on, with- 
 out alighting, as they pafs the Egyptian nobles. 
 
 ■Chap. VL 
 
 Of the Dlverßons of the Orientals, 
 
 It may appear trifling to defcend to a detail of 
 the arts by which a people have contrived to 
 while away the leifure hours that hang heavy on 
 their hands : Yet are thefe arts expreffive of the 
 chara6ler and manners of a nation. The nature 
 of the amufements followed in any country can 
 never be a matter of indiiFernce to an obferver, 
 who wiflies to fludy the character of its inhabi- 
 tants. Befides, what renders the amufements of 
 the Eaft peculiarly interefting, thtfe are all of 
 ancient origin, and an acquaintance with them 
 clears up fome difficulties concerning old cuf- 
 toms. 
 
 The climate, culloms, and government, con» 
 fpire to give the manners of the Orientals a me- 
 lancholy caft. Their ferioufnefs is encreafed by 
 the wantof focial intercourfe, from which they arc 
 fecluded by means of that jealoufy which hinders 
 them from admitting one another into their houfes^ 
 They are fllent, becauie, when fhut up with their 
 women, where they have few topics for coiiverfa- 
 
 Vol, I. P tloo^ 
 
122 
 
 IN ARABIA, WC^ 
 
 tion, they unavoidably acquire habits of taci* 
 turnity. As power is confined to a few hands^i 
 and induftry oppreffed by Government, the fub- 
 jeds of the Eaftern defpots naturally become 
 gloomy and languid for want of employment ; 
 and the more fo, for their being unacquainted 
 •with letters, or with the fine arts, which afford 
 the bell relief from the tcsdium of fuch a life. 
 The exactions of Government render fortune fo 
 precarious, as to bewilder the people in endlefs 
 fpeculations about their interefts, and to render 
 them more attached to bufinefs than to plea- 
 fure. 
 
 The amufements of nations in fuch circum- 
 fiances muft be very different from thofe of a 
 people among whom the idle and opulent foirm 
 a nuoierous clafs ; v/here the women lead the fa- 
 fhion, and give the tone to manners and conver- 
 fation, while all the v/orld are obliged to bend 
 to their whimfies and humours. In Europe, all 
 the pleafures of fociety are marked with the foft- 
 nefs and domeftic, fedentary life of the fex ; and 
 the men are daily adopting more entirely the a- 
 mufements of the women. But, in the Eafl, a- 
 niufements take their cafl more from the tran-» 
 fadions of publiq life, and have fomething more 
 mafculine and aufi:ere in them. The ignorance 
 of the Orientals, indeed, leaves them a relifh 
 for very infipid diverfions. 
 
 , In 
 
IN ÄkABlA, l^C. 113 
 
 In the evening, the great generally fliüt them- 
 felves up in their harem. We know not what 
 pafles in thefe folitary retreats : But, as the wo-- 
 men of the Eaft are exceflively ignorant, and 
 merely great children, it is very probable that 
 the amufements of the harem are extremely chil- 
 difh* Some hints which have occafionally efca- 
 fed from huibands of my acquaintance confirm 
 #ne irt this opinion. 
 
 The OJmanliy or Turks of diftindion, who 
 are ilill attached to the ancient military inftitu- 
 tions of the nation, amufe themfelves chiefly 
 with equeflrian exercifes. The principal inha- 
 bitants of Cairo meet twice a- week in a large 
 fquare, called Maßabe, with a number of atten- 
 dants on horfeback. In this fquare they play at 
 Gerid ; which confifts in running, by two and 
 two. With the ftirrups loofe, purfuing one ano- 
 ther, and tolling ftaves four feet long : thefe 
 they throw with fuch force, that if any one be 
 not upon his guard, he is in danger of having ä 
 leg or an arm broken. Others, while riding at 
 full gallop, throw balls into a pot placed upon 
 a heap of fand. Others, again, üioot the bow ; 
 an exercife in fuch repute, that pillars are ered:- 
 ed in honour of thofe who exhibit extraordinary 
 proofs of ftrength or dexterity in launching the 
 arrows, 
 
 P 2 When 
 
124 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 When the JSIile is at its greateft height, the 
 great about Cairo divert themfelves in little boats 
 fplendidly decked out, upon the Birkets in the 
 middle of the city. Upon this occafiony they 
 regale the inhabitants with mufic, and often 
 with fire- works. 
 
 A man originally from Tripoli in Barbary in- 
 formed me, that the Pacha of that city ufed 
 fometimes to erecl two fcaffolds, with cords run- 
 ning between them, and upon thefe miniature 
 models of ihips of war, armed with cannons of 
 a fize in proportion to that of the veflel. Thofe 
 veffels, thus fufpended in the air, and command- 
 ed by naval officers, who direded the evolutions 
 and the fire of the fmall artillery, prefented no 
 unentertaining reprefentation of a fea fight. 
 The captain whofe veiTel firft fuffered confider- 
 able damage was confidered as conquered. 
 But this diverfion often ended in ferious quar 
 reis among th^e commanders, and was therefore 
 aboliflied. 
 
 The fervants of the Egyptian nobles exercife 
 themfelves on foot, in throwing, one againil a- 
 nother, flaves five or fix feet long ; and thus 
 learn to throw the Gerid, when on horfeback» 
 The common people and peafants divert them- 
 felves with cudgel-playing. Gladiators, by pro- 
 fefTion there are, too, who exhibit in public. 
 But ftaves are their only weapons ; and a fmall 
 
 cuihoin 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. 125 
 
 cuiliion faftened under the left arm, ferves them 
 as a "buckler. 
 
 Through the villages, the young people a- 
 mufe themfelves at diverfions much the fame as 
 feveral of thofe which are pradtifed in Europe. 
 They run, leap, play at the ball, fometimes at 
 odds and evens, and at tolling a number of fmall 
 Hones into the air, and receiving them again in- 
 to the hand* 
 
 It is natural for a people who live in feclufion 
 from fociety, and infubjeäiionto arbitrary autho- 
 rity, to be fond of public feftivals. Thefe are 
 celebrated in Egypt with much pomp and ce-- 
 remony, particularly the feftival upon the de- 
 parture of the pilgrims for Mecca, of which fe- 
 veral authors have given a defcription. The o- 
 ther feafts, befide this, are numerous : Each 
 mofque celebrates a feaft in honour of its found- 
 er ; upon occafion of which there is a proceffion 
 of perfons of all ranks ; and the people are per- 
 mitted to divert themfelves in an adjoining fquare. 
 The Copts have their feafts, as vv^ell as the Ma- 
 hometans, and contribute, by their ceremonies, 
 to the general amufement. 
 
 Thefe fellivals are fometimes celebrated by 
 night. The ftreets are then illuminated by the 
 blaze of refinous wood in a chaffing difli, held 
 up on a long pole. They ufe alfo another more 
 luminous flambeau, which is a machine confift- 
 
 ing 
 
NlE^UHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 ing of divers pieces of light wood, to which äfi 
 hung a number of fmall lamps, and the whole 
 carried on a pole, as the former. When thefe 
 feftivals are celebrated by day, the people divert 
 themfelves upon fwings, and with other fimilar 
 amufements. 
 
 In Egypt, Syria, and Arabia, the favourite a- 
 mufement of perfons in any degree above the 
 very loweft claffes, is, to fpend the evening in a 
 public cofFee-houfe, where they hear muficians^ 
 lingers, and tale-tellers, who frequent thofe hou- 
 fe^ in order to earn a trifle by the exercife of 
 their refpedlive arts. In thofe places of public 
 amufement, the Orientals maintain a profound 
 filence, and often fit whole evenings without ut- 
 tering a word. They prefer converfing with 
 their pipe ; and its narcotic fumes feem very fit 
 to allay the ferment of their boiling blood. 
 Without recurring to a phyfical reafon, it would 
 be hard to account for the general relifti which 
 thefe people have for tobacco ; by fmoking, 
 they divert the fpleen and languor which hang 
 about them, and bring themfelves, in a flight 
 degree, into the fame ftate of fpirits which the 
 opium-eaters obtain from that drug. Tobacco 
 ferves them inftead of ftrong liquors, which they 
 are forbidden to ufe. 
 
 This fondnefs for tobacco has rendered them 
 Very nice, wich refpedt to the form and materials 
 
 of 
 
NIEBUHR'S TRAVJItS 
 
 öf their pipes. Thofe ufed by the common peo- 
 ple, have the bole of burnt clay, with a reed for 
 a ftalk. Perfons of condition have their pipes 
 made of fome more precious matter, and more or- 
 namented. They cover the ftalk with a piece of 
 cloth which they v/et, when the heat is exceffive, in 
 order to cool the fmoke, as they inhale it. Over 
 great part of Afia, the Perfian pipe is ufed, which^ 
 by palling the fmoke through water, renders it 
 milder, and more agreeable to thofc who fwal- 
 low it. In Egypt, this Perfian pipe is nothing 
 but a cocoa nutftiell, half filled with water, with 
 two ftalks, one communicating with the bole, 
 the other entering the mouth of the perfon who 
 fmokes. J[erim-Kan, the prefent Schah in the 
 fouth of Perfia, feems to diftinguifii himfelf at 
 this amufement ; for the pipe that is mofi: in 
 fafhion, is called, after him, a Kerirn-Kan. 
 
 Smoking with the Perfian pipe ferves to warm 
 a perfon upon occafion, as well as to amufe. 
 The fmoke inhaled from it enters the lungs, and 
 thus communicates through the whole body a 
 gentle heat. In a voyage upon the Euphrates, 
 which I performed in winter, the boatmen were 
 often obliged to go into the water, to fet the boat 
 a-flo?t. As they dürft not drink brandy to üive 
 themfelves from fuffiring by the cold, I could 
 not do them a greater pleafure, than by giving 
 them ^ pipe of tobacco in this way. 
 
 Chap. 
 
128 
 
 IN ARABIA, Cfr. 
 
 Chap. Vit 
 
 ^ Games in the' Eaß. 
 
 The Koran prohibits playing for money ; and for 
 this reafon the Orientals feidom play at any game 
 of chance. The Mahometans have therefore the 
 happinefs of never being forced, as vi^e are in Eu- 
 rope, to engage, out of politenefs, in an infipid 
 amufement, vi^hich waftes the body, by agitating 
 the nnfocial and' malignant paffions ; blunts the 
 powers of the mind, by fixing its attention upon 
 ä few unmeaning combinations ; and chills the 
 focial ardour of the heart, by the conteft of va- 
 mty and intereft among the players. 
 
 However, as there are in all countries giddy 
 and thouglitlefs perfons, I have feen Mahome- ' 
 tans, who might poffibly be feduced by the ex- 
 ample of the Europeans, play, although at a pid- 
 dling game, when they were not with their wo„ 
 men. They know nothing of our cards ; but at 
 Bombay, I met with four Arabian merchants, 
 ¥/ha played with Chinefe cards, fo large and 
 thick, that not one of the four but had enough 
 to do with both hands. Some young Mahome- 
 ^an merchants, whom I furprifed playing at 
 Bombay, concealed their game with an appear- 
 ance 
 
IN'aRABIA, ^'€k ' 129 
 
 ance of anxiety^ till thej learned that I was an 
 European. The Greeks are too poliflied, not 
 to imitate our manners ; they fhew themfelves 
 good Ghriftians, by playing with our cards, and 
 a deep game too. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Eaft have^ however, 
 fome games, more fuitable to their fedentary life, 
 and fplenetic humour, at which they play with-» 
 out keermefs, and merely to fill up the vacant 
 hours. Such are chefs, draughts, tridlrac. The 
 Arabic names of thefe games, and their antiqui- 
 ty prove them to have been originally introduc- 
 ed from the Eaft into Europe. If the Mahome« 
 tans fhew any degree of paffion for any one 
 game, it is for chefs, at which they fpend, fome- 
 times, whole days without interruption. But 
 thofe who enter into the game with this, keen- 
 nefs and ferioufnefs, are reckoned dull by their 
 companions. Inftead of wooden chefs-boards, 
 they ufe a white linen cloth, with pieces of a 
 different colour fewed upon it. When the game 
 is ended, the cloth is wrapped up, with the vic- 
 tors and the vanquiflied, amicably mixed with- 
 in it. 
 
 They have another game, which is played up- 
 on boards, marked with two fquares, one with- 
 jn another, and thefe divided diagonally,— with 
 Hones or fhells of different colours. This game 
 has found its way into Europe, where we fee 
 
 Vol. I. people 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 people play at it with black and white beaiis, 
 There are many others, which, being lefs di- 
 verfified or ingenious, have not yet reached 
 us. Such are the Mankale^ which bears fome 
 refemblance to chefs ; and Tahuk Buk, in which 
 being a mixture of hazard, it bears fome refem- 
 blance to back-gammon. The hazard depends 
 upon the play of four broad fticks, half white 
 half black ; and the fides, thus differently co- 
 loured, determine, by their combinations, the 
 movement of the pieces upon the board. 
 
 A more ancient game is ftill in ufe among the 
 inhabitants of the Eaft. The Arabs call it Lai 
 el Kab ; it is played with fmall bones of fheep 
 ör goats ; and the value of the feveral ftrokes in 
 the progrefs of game is determined by the ap- 
 pearance of one or another of the fides of the 
 bone above. The elder Greek and Latin authors 
 fpeak of this gam.e, which muß: have given riib 
 l-o the ufe of the dice. 
 
 Chap. VIIl. 
 
 Of the Mujic of the Eaß. 
 
 Among the Turks and Arabs, a man of rank 
 would think it a difgrace to learn mufic. A cer- 
 tain aufterity ia their manners, too, renders this 
 
 people 
 
IN ARABIA, ^r. 
 
 131 
 
 people infenfible to the charms of harmony. The 
 contempt in which the art is held, extends to its 
 profeffbrs ; and muficians are accordingly little 
 efteemed and ill paid. An art thus defpifed by 
 the great, cherifhed or admired hy no connoiu 
 feurs, and not fitted to condu6l either to fam.e 
 or fortune, cannot make rapid advances. 
 
 The mufic of the £aft, which is thus negle^l- 
 ed, is not of the fame charader as ours. It is 
 grave and fimple, without any complexity of 
 modulation. The fingers, to gratify the nation- 
 al tafte, are obliged to fing flow, that the fenfe 
 of the words may underfi:ood. I have heard 
 feveraf Schiechs fing fome pafiages from the Al- 
 coran, in an eafy, natural key. There was fome- 
 ^hing pleafingly afiedling and folemn in thofe 
 pieces of mufic, joined with the words that ac- 
 companied them. In my voyage up the Nile, 
 I joined wit^ the failor§ in fin ging amorous 
 fongs, by alternate 'couplets, in which they com- 
 pared their miftrefies to the cucumbers of Damaf- 
 cus, and the eyes of the gazelle ; and praifed their 
 beautiful yellow hands, and red nails. This 
 chorus of fingers afforded us no fmall entertain- 
 ment. 
 
 Airs of that fimplicity are eanly learned by 
 heart. The Orientals, accordingly, ufe no notes?^ 
 but fing by the ear. I was told, in fome pro- 
 vinces of Turkey, that there were in Confi:anti- 
 
 Q^2 nople 
 
13^ NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 nople great muficians, who employed fecrec 
 ligns in reeolleding tunes. But, having made 
 enquiry concerning this, upon my return to that 
 capital, I could find nobody that had the llight- 
 eil idea of mufical notes ; not even the dervifes 
 of the order of Merlavi, who are, however, ef= 
 teemed the heil muficians among the Turks. 
 
 At Bagdad, and at Conitantinopie, I affifted 
 in fome concerts, which, though not to be 
 compared to thofe of Europe, were not ill form- 
 ed to pleafe an ear unaccuftomed to the intrica- 
 qies of the mufical art. What is mofl difagree-. 
 able, at firfl, is to hear all the infiruments play 
 in unifon ; unlefs it happen, that one or another 
 take the fancy to play a continued hafs, by mak- 
 ing an inceiTant repetition. 
 
 If the mufic of the Eafl be not to the tafle of 
 the Europeans, ours is not lefs difagreable to them, 
 MrBaurenfiend and I often played upon the violin 
 before Arabs of diflindion, who came to fee us. 
 Although they did not openly or directly exprefs 
 their difapprobation of our mufic, yet they faid 
 enough to let us underfland that it was not a- 
 greeable to them, and that they preferred their- 
 own country mufic, as more mafculinc, and con^ 
 fequently more excellent. As we were return- 
 ing home in the dark one evening, during our 
 flay at Cairo, from aflifling at a concert with 
 fome European merchants^ we overheard an E° 
 
 gyptiap 
 
IN ARABIA, ^ 133 
 
 gyptian voice fmging, and accompanied with a 
 flute. One of our fervantSj enchanted with the 
 found, exclaimed, My God I how^ fine ! God 
 
 blefs you I" We were furprifed^ and aiked 
 him what he thought of our concert ? " Your 
 
 mulic," replied he, is wild and difagree-^ 
 * ■ able ; and no man of fenfe or gravity can take 
 " pleafure in it." 
 
 It fhould feem, from the fimple conflrudion 
 of their mufical inftruments, as well as from va- 
 rious other circumftances, that thofe are of a 
 very ancient origin, and have been tranfmitted 
 down, without undergoing any remarkable 
 teration. Several of them are likewife common 
 among the inhabitants of the illes in the Archi- 
 pelago ; as are alfo three different forts, with 
 three or four wires, called by the Greeks, Icitali^ 
 Semari, and Baglama ; and by the Arabians, 
 diflinguifhed by the Generic name of Tambiiray 
 which is common to all mufical inftruments with 
 w^ires. The Greeks have a bow^ inftrument 
 with three catgut firings, upon which they play 
 wdth an wooden bow, fitted with horfe's hair, 
 to which they give the neceflary tenfion in play- 
 ing, by prefhng it w^ith the little finger ; it is 
 called the Lyra, Thefe inftruments are always 
 accompanied with the voice. 
 
 Some bow- inftruments belong in a peculiar 
 manner, to the Arabs ; fuch as the S einenge, a 
 
 fort 
 
134 niebuhr's travels 
 
 fort of bad violin, joined with a drum, lu 
 body is commonly a cocoa nut-fliell, with a 
 piece of Ikin extended upon it ; three firings of 
 catgut, and fometimes of horfe hair, are fitted 
 to it ; and it is played with a bow, not lefs auk- 
 ward in its form than the Greek Lyra. The 
 Semenge is the inftrument of thofe wandering 
 mulicians who accompany the dancing women. 
 The Arabs give the name of marahha, to another 
 violin, with a firing of horfe's hair, and a Ikin 
 ftretched upon the body of the inftrument. 
 This violin makes a very fuitable accompani- 
 ment to the fhrill voices of the common fingers 
 in the coffee- houfes. I faw, at Bafra, another 
 violin, not unlike the Marabha with one firing, 
 too, and covered with fkin, like the drunij,. 
 and ufed in the fame way. At Bagdad I heard 
 the drum beat in the European fafhion ; a lady 
 at Alexandria put on fib/er nails, and beat it with 
 her fingers. 
 
 The Egyptians are fond of noify mufical in- 
 ftruments ; but the inhabitants towards the foutb. 
 of Africa, feem to prefer a fofter fpecies of mu- 
 fic. In the hands of a Barbaric or native of the 
 kingdom of Bongola, I faw a fort of harp that 
 afforded a very pleafing found. The body of 
 the inflrument was a piece of wood of an oval 
 form, hollowed, with a piece of fkin ftretched 
 upon it, and mounted with five catgut firings, 
 
 with 
 
IN ARABIA, ÜC, 
 
 ^3S 
 
 with a turning handle, to which thefe were fix- 
 ed, and by which the inftrument was tuned. 
 It is played either by pinching the chords with 
 the fingers, or by touching them with a piece 
 of raw leather, in the fhape of a bow. My Bar* 
 hari acquaintance danced while he played. 
 This inflrument feemed not unlike to David's 
 harp. The Barbari call it KuJJir ; the Arabs, 
 Hamhura, 
 
 Among the wind inftruments is the true Tur- 
 kifh flute, called Salojnanie^ and in ufe among 
 the 7urcoma7i fliepherds. It is entirely open^ 
 and without any reed, fo that to wind it is no 
 cafy matter. This is the favourite inftrument 
 of the Merlam dervifes, who, as they ufe mußc 
 in their adls of religious worfhip, are the beft 
 muficians in the Eaft, and excel efpecially in. 
 playing on the flute. It is made either of a reed, 
 or of a piece of fine wood. I faw a peafant at 
 Cairo having Pa7i*s flute^ made of feveral differ- 
 ent pieces of reed. / 
 
 The Sumara is a fort of flute with two pipes, 
 one of which, the fhorter, is ufed for playing 
 airs, and the longer, in a continued bafs ; juft 
 like the long pipe in the Bulgarian bagpipe- 
 They have a bagpipe in Egypt, called Sunmra 
 el Kurbe ; but this is not equal to the Bulgarian 
 bagpipe, which affords the fineft munc I heard 
 in Turkey. It is true, alfo, that the Bulgarian 
 
 fliepherds 
 
niebuhVs travels 
 
 fliepherds have already fome tafle for the mufic 
 of Europe. 
 
 The Afiatics are fond of accompanying their 
 dancing and fmging with the found of tambou- 
 rines, in order the better to mark the meafure. 
 Thefe are of different forts ; either circular 
 pieces of wood, or earthen pots made for the 
 purpafe, covered with fl^in, and founded with 
 the fingers. The moil elegant tambourine is 
 the Dö/^ to which the women dance in the ha- 
 rams. The cailanet is to be reckoned among 
 thefe muiical inftruments ; it is carried by the 
 -public dancing girls ; beggars, too, and fome or- 
 ders of mendicant Mahometan prieils, carry dif- 
 ferent horns and drums, which they found 
 when they aik alms* 
 
 The military mufic of the Turks is beginning 
 to be known in Europe. That which is to be 
 heard through the Eaft, however, affords noth- 
 ing but an unpleafant, jarring noife, and would 
 be entirely unworthy of notice, did it not ferve 
 to mark the diftindions of ranü. A Pacha of 
 three tails is preceded by a greater variety of mu=^ 
 iical inftruments, playing martial mufic, than a 
 a nobleman of inferior rank dares ufe, fo that a 
 perfon's employment may be known by the mu- 
 fic which goes before him. The principal in- 
 ftruments ufed in thofe martial concerts, are a 
 fort of trumpet exceedingly noify, which is cal- 
 led 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 ^37 
 
 led in Egypt Surma : the Tabbel, or great Tiir- 
 kifhtabour, which is held horizontally, and ftruck 
 upon both fides ; a hautboy of an acute found, 
 and another that founds not unlike our baifoon, 
 Laßlv, they have plates of fonorous metal, which, 
 they flrikc one againft another, to mark the ca- 
 dence (r). 
 
 Chap. IX. 
 
 Of Dancings as it is pracijfed in the ElxJ}. 
 
 A refpeclable Mahometan, who fliould indulge 
 in dancing, would difgrace himfelf in the cfti- 
 mation of his countrymen. The women, how- 
 ever, -value themfelves upon excellence in 
 this exercife, and practife it without fcruple, 
 reckoning it their duty to contribute to 
 the pleafures of their hufbands, by every little 
 art in their power. When by themfelves, too, 
 ,in an affembly confiding, only of women, on oc- 
 cafion of a marriage, or any other fol emni ty, they 
 vie no lefs than before their hufbands, in dan- 
 cing. 
 
 A perfon from Tripoli related to me in what 
 manner the- women oftbat city amufc \ '\ 
 ' upon feftive occafions, and, I have i,! 
 ' to believe^ that the fame cuH"^' -'^ • .... tike in. 
 Vol. I. R. Ä'fuke^ 
 
138 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Turkey and Arabia ; however, I do not pretend 
 to be abfolutely certain ; for it is impoffible to 
 meet with an eye-witnefs of thofe amufements. 
 My Tripoli acquaintance had his information 
 from his wife, who ingenuoufly told liim what- 
 ever he aiked. 
 
 No woman would prefume to appear in an af- 
 fembly, if Ihe were not handfome and magnifi- 
 cently dreiTed. If the entertainment happens 
 to be in the houfe of a family of rank, fifty of 
 the greateil beauties in the city affemble, alj 
 dreiTed out in great fplendour. In their train^ 
 they bring their handfomefl ilaves, who attend 
 in a feparate room, to take care of the coffers 
 containing their raiftrefTes clothes. After the 
 ladies have been feated for fome time, and have 
 been ferved with refrefliments, young girls are 
 called in, to divert the company with vocal and 
 inftrumental muiic. The moil difdnguifhed 
 lady in the company then rifes, dances for a few 
 minutes, and paffes into the next apartment, where 
 her Ilaves are in waiting to change herdrefs. She 
 lays all afide, even her flippers embroidered 
 with gold and fiiver, and retains only her head- 
 drefs and bracelets, which are richly ornament- 
 ed with jewels. In the mean time, the reil 
 dance, and in their turns leave the room to change 
 their drefs ; and this is fucceflively repeated, fo 
 longj that a lady will fometimes change her drefg 
 
 ten 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. 139 
 
 teil times in one night ; and put on fo many 
 different fuits, every one richer than another. 
 They drive all to command admiration ; and 
 their endeavours end, as among us^ in jealoufies 
 and grudges. 
 
 The Greek women have fo fully adopted this 
 piece of Eaftern luxury, that they change their 
 drefs on the flighteft occafions. An European 
 fettled at Conftantinople, told me, that he had 
 feen a Greek lady, the wife of one of his friends, 
 whom he vifited, put on five different dreifes^ 
 in the fpace of two hours. Thefe inftances 
 prove the power of inftind:, and the uniformity 
 of the character of the fex, all over the world. 
 
 The men difdain to pradife this exercife, but 
 amufe themfelves fometimes with feeing dancing 
 girls exhibit, who go about, and dance for hire, 
 either in places of public refort, or in private 
 houfes upon feilive occalions. Thofe dancers 
 are called, at Conftantinople, Tfchingane or gyp- 
 fies, and at Cairo, Gbaße. They are young mar- 
 ried, or unmarried women, belonging to a fepa- 
 rate and defpifed clafs of the lower people, who 
 intermarry only among themfelves. Their pa- 
 rents are commonly farriers by trade. They are 
 attended only by one man, who plays on the 
 femenge, and fometimes by an old woman, who 
 plays on the tambourine, and appears to watch 
 over their conducl ; they are faid, however, not 
 
 R 2 to 
 
14© 
 
 HIEBUHR's TRAT£LS 
 
 to be of the moft demure and rigid virtue. Yet 
 110 married Mahometan incurs any obloquy by 
 carrying them to dance in his houfe ; and they 
 go wherever they are well paid. But an un- 
 married Mahometan dares not invite them to 
 his houfe ; and we never met with any of them 
 in the houfes of any of the French merchants, 
 who, by a regulation of their fovereign, are all 
 reftri<^ed to celibacy. 
 
 At firft, we never faw them but by accident, 
 and in a public houfe without the city ; but, to- 
 wards the conclufion of our Hay in Egypt, we 
 had better opportunities of gratifying our curi- 
 ofity. A great part of the houfes in which the 
 Europeans live, Hand along the great canal 
 which pafles through Cairo : and thofe Gbaß 
 accordingly derive their bell profits from dancing 
 oppolite to thefe houfes in the canal, when it is dry, 
 before the opening^ of the dyke. At that period,, 
 we made fometimes one troop, fometimes ano- 
 ther dance before us. We needed fuch amufe- 
 ments to divert the gloomy ideas which the prof- 
 ped: of our departure raifed in our minds. Yet, 
 however much difpofed to receive entertain- 
 ment, they did not pleafe us at firft ; their vo- 
 cal and inftrumental mufic we thought horrible, 
 and their perfons appeared difguftingly ngiy, with 
 their yellow hands, fpotted faces, abfurd orna- 
 meßts, and hair larded with {linking pomatum. 
 
 But,. 
 
IN ARABIA, E^^i 
 
 But, by degrees, we learned to endure them, 
 and for want of better, began to fancy fome cf 
 them pretty, to imagine their voices agreeable^ 
 their movements graceful, though indecent^ and 
 their miific not abfolutely intolerable. 
 
 There is nothing peculiar in the drefs of thefe 
 women ; when dancing, they throw up theiF 
 Teils, and leave them to float on their fiioulders^ 
 They wear a petticoat reaching fcarcely under 
 the knee, open behind, and fixed by a broad- 
 girdle with two large buttons. As they were 
 defcribed to me, the Tfchingane dance at Con- 
 ftantinople, juft like Gbaße at Cairo. Mr Baw^ 
 renfiend made a drawing of a party of the lat- 
 ter, with the man who plays to them upon the 
 femenge, and the old woman who beats the tam^ 
 bourine. 
 
 The Ghriftians in the Eall have different fpe, 
 cies of dancing and muiic, according as they be- 
 long to one or another nation. At Mojul, I fav>;" 
 Jacobites and Neftorians dance at one of thei^ 
 feftivals. None of them all are either fo fond of 
 dancing, or dance well as the Greeks. They 
 dance round in a ring, with fo me pretty woman 
 leading the dance. The Wallaehians and Bul- 
 garians have likewife their national dances ; but 
 theirs are not equal to thofe of the Greeks. 
 
 It is always prudent to accommodate one's 
 felf to the manners and opinions of the country 
 
 in 
 
KIEBUHR^S TRAVELS. 
 
 in which one lives. The Europeans at Conßaü» 
 tinople obferve not this rule. They divert them, 
 felves in the capital of the Ottoman empire, as 
 they would at Paris or London. They have nei- 
 ther play nor opera, but they often give m.afked 
 balls at Pera and Galata. The Mahometans 
 have an averfion for thefe amufements ; and, as 
 none but the very lowed among them dance? 
 they extend their contempt to dancers in gene- 
 ral, whoni they look upon as perfons of no mo- 
 tals or education. The promifcuous dancing of 
 the two fexes, which they mentioned to me with 
 horror^ renders our balls abfolutely deteftable in 
 their eyes. The Europeans, who live among 
 Mahometans, would be more beloved and re- 
 fpedled, if they did not vilify themfelves in the 
 ^yes of the Orientals, by amufements which they 
 might eafily fpare. 
 
 An anecdote was told me of a Turk, who, 
 upon his return from Italy, where he had feen 
 the Carnival, imagined that the Ghriftians be- 
 came mad at a certain feafon of the year ; and re- 
 covered their wits by putting aihes on their 
 heads. This ftory, whether true or fid:ion, is 
 to be found in Montefquieu's Perfian Tales. 
 
 Chap. 
 
IN ARABIA, <^C> 143 
 
 Chap. X 
 
 Public Shews cf the Eaß. 
 
 We did not expe£l to fee a play in Egypt : Bat 
 there was in Cairo a numerous company of play- 
 ers, Mahometans, Chriftians, and Jews, at the 
 time of our arrival in that city. Their appear- 
 ance befpoke their poverty. They played their 
 pieces, v/herever they were invited, for a mo- 
 derate hire. They exhibited in the open air. 
 The court of the houfe was their theatre ; and 
 a fcreen concealed them from the audience, when 
 they changed their drefles. Several European 
 merchants had lived long at Cairo without fee- 
 ing an Egyptian play ; and we therefore invited 
 the company to the houfe of a married Italian : 
 But we Vv^ere not much gratified either by the 
 muiic or the players. 
 
 The piece was in Arabic, I was not then 
 fufficiently mafter of this language to underfiand 
 the dialogue ; but the fable was explained to 
 me. The principal characler was a female ; but 
 was acled.by a man in v/oman's drefs, v/lio had 
 much to do to hide his beard, Tiiis heroine en- 
 ticed all travellers into her tent; and, after rob- 
 ing them of their purfes, caufed them to be 
 
 beaiejj 
 
t44 
 
 niebühr's travels 
 
 beaten ofE She had already plundered a good 
 ■maojj when a young merchant, weary of the 
 infipid repetition of the fame tricks,., exprefied 
 aloud his difapprobation of the piece. The o=- 
 therfpedators.toiliew that their delicacy was not 
 inferior to his, joined fiis expreffion of difappro-. 
 BatioD^ and obliged the players to Hop, although 
 the piece was not more than half done. 
 
 If few plays are reprefented in Cairo, pop- 
 pet- fhews arCj however, very common, and are 
 to be met with through all the ilreets. This 
 exhibition is reprefented upon a very narrow 
 Hage, a fort of box which a iingle perfon can 
 •eaßly carry about, and into which the perfomi- 
 er goes. He fends forward his figores throogli 
 holes in the coffer, and makes them perform the 
 ixeceiTary movements by iiieaos of wires paffing 
 through the grooves in the lid of the box. With 
 an inftrument in his mouth, he gives his voice 
 a ihrillnefs anfwerable to the lize of the fi- 
 gures. The whole together might merit atten^ 
 tiODj were not the pieces, which the tafte of the 
 fpedlators in Cairo requires to be performed^ ab- 
 folutely execrable. The puppets begin by pay- 
 ing compliments, quarrel by degrees^ and end 
 with beating; one another^ 
 
 The magic lanthorn is a favourite amufement 
 in the Eaft. I was notj however, fond of fucli 
 entertainments ; as their fcope was always to 
 
IN ARABIA, ^r. 
 
 ^urn the drefs and manners of the Europeans in^ 
 to ridicule. 
 
 Jugglers are to be feen in all the more public 
 ilreets ; who amufe the people bv tricks that are 
 thought wonderful in Egypt, but would not be 
 reckoned fo in Europe. One of thofe feilov/s 
 drew great admiration by means of an intermit-^ 
 ting fountain, the fecret of which is not under- 
 •fto®d in thofe countries^ and which appeared 
 therefore to flop and flow at his pleafure. Thofe 
 jugglers are paid by a voluntary contribution of 
 the fpeclators, but that fo moderate, that they 
 can fcarce live by their profeffion. 
 
 Monkies, drelTed up like human beings, con^- 
 tribute like wife to the amufement of the popu- 
 lace. They are of that fpecies which abound in 
 the foreft of Yemen, and difcover extraordinary 
 intelligence and docility. This animal feems 
 naturally fond of dancing. A captain, in the 
 fervice of the Eaft India Company, informed 
 me, that he had often made his drums enter 
 ruinous pagodas, where monkies were the fole 
 inhabitants ; and that, at the found of the mar- 
 tial mulic, even the mothers, with the young in 
 their arms, left their holes, and fome hundreds 
 of thefe animals \^)^ould join at once in a dance. 
 The long robes w^orn in the Eaft would be an 
 incommodious drefs for monkies : they are there- 
 fore clothed like Europeans ; a quftom which 
 
 ^OL.L S encreafe^ 
 
146 
 
 NIEBÜHP?S TRAVELS 
 
 encreafes the contempt with which the Orient ak 
 are otherwife fufficiently difpofed to regard our 
 manners : A monkey, with his tail, appears to 
 them no unfit reprefentation of an European with 
 his hea^ uncovered, wearing a fword in a hori- 
 zontal pofition, the end of which appears be= 
 hind, ilTuing from beneath his clothes^ and in all 
 other refpeds in full drefs. 
 
 Thofe who lead about beafts for exhibition, 
 have often like wife affes and Iheep, whom they 
 have taught to perform certain little diverting 
 tricks. Another thing, at which we were at 
 firft not a little furprifed, was to fee ferpents 
 dance. But, upon becoming better acquainted 
 with the inilinds of this animal, our aftonilh- 
 ment ceafed. The ferpent feems to have a na- 
 tural tafte for founds ; at the beat of the drum^^ 
 it raifes its head, and ere6ls its body, makings 
 at the fame time, a certain movement which is 
 called its dancing. 
 
 I faw a man of a lingular character, who ex- 
 hibited himfelffor a Ihew in theitreets of Cairo. 
 He was a beggar, who, to move compaffion, dif- 
 played a huge chain, which he pretended to 
 have borne in captivity at Malta. He enume-- 
 rated, in a piteous tone of voice, what miferies 
 he had fufiered in llavery among the barbarous 
 Europeans. What he complained moll of, and 
 what feemed to excite the greateft horror in 
 
 his 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. 
 
 his hearers, was, that he had been obliged to 
 keep fwine, and to fleep at night in the fame fty 
 with thofe impure animals. People of fenfe, in- 
 deed, heard him with indignation; but his nar^ 
 rative failed not to infpire the populace with Vxh- 
 horrence for the Chriflians. 
 
 Chap. XL 
 
 Zlarr'm^s of the Egyptians. 
 
 The fecrecy which is obferved with refpecPc to 
 every thing "^hat paffes in the harems, or regards 
 the women, rendered it impoffible for me to ob- 
 tain particular information concerning the cere- 
 monies of marriage among the Egyptians. I 
 can only defcribe what I faw in a public pro- 
 ceffion at Cairo, on the occaiion of a mafriage. 
 Mr Baurenfeind made a drawing of the pro-> 
 ceffion. 
 
 • The bride, clofely covered from head to foot, 
 walked under a canopy borne by four men, be- 
 tween two women, who conduced her. Seve- 
 ral Haves walked before, fome playing on the 
 tambourine, others bearing fly-flaps, and others 
 fprinkling fcented waters. She was followed b7 
 a number of v/omen, and by fome muficians, 
 
 S 2 riding 
 
NIEBUHR'S TRAVEiS 
 
 riding upon afles. A number of fervants atten-. 
 ded 5 and, as they pafled on, performed feats of 
 llrength and agility. All the women in the pro- 
 ceffion cried inceflantly, Ln, Lu, Lu ; an ex- 
 clamation exprellive of joy, among the Maho^ 
 metans. If the procellion take place at night, 
 flaves attend with flambeaus. 
 
 We met, one day, an Arab bride near Alexan-^ 
 dria. She rode upon a camel, and behind he^ 
 followed her dowry in cattle and furniture. The 
 proceflion marched on flowly, and flopped fome^ 
 times, to difplay itfelf. As it proceeded, mufic 
 played, guns were fired, and the women raifei 
 continued ihouts of joy. 
 
 SECTION 
 
IN. ARABIA, ^.C» 
 
 MS 
 
 SECTION \\ 
 
 EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES», 
 
 Chap. L 
 
 Egyptian Antiquities in General, 
 
 Of all countries in the known world, Egypt 
 prefents to curious obfervation the greateft num-^ 
 ber of monuments of remote antiquity. Vari- 
 ous caufes concur to give this country the ad-, 
 vantage in this refped: over every other part of 
 the globe. 
 
 A potent, rich, and enlightened people, are 
 naturally led to leave fome marks of their exif- 
 tence, and fome proofs of their profperous con- 
 dition that may defcend to the lateft poflerity. 
 We know, by the unanimous teftimony of the 
 ancients, that the Egyptians have been, frgm 
 time immemorial, a polifhed and and flourifhing 
 5iation, before the comparatively recent period 
 
 whicii 
 
15.0 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 which we regard as the asra of ancient hiftory* 
 Three thoufand years have elapfed, lince the me- 
 mory of the authors of many of the celebrated 
 works in Egypt, was lofl from among the tradi- 
 tions of prieits. So ancient a people mufl un- 
 doubtedly have had a great fhare in the firft po- 
 pulation, and the civilization of the fouth of Eu- 
 rope. All hillorians agree concerning the fplen- 
 did exploits of the ancient Egyptians ; and of 
 fuch a people there cannot but remain fome vef- 
 tiges in the country which they inhabited. 
 
 It is true, that we have many decilive proofs 
 of the exiftence of other nations in the remote 
 ages of antiquity J, as powerful as the Egyptians, 
 and even more enlightened. Yet, of thofe nations^, 
 no veftige remains ; their buildings, and other 
 public works, are totally effaced. The country 
 which they cultivated and embellifhed, is, at 
 prefent, a barren defart, defliitute of every re- 
 main that might n^iark its ancient ftate, and in- 
 habited, or rather ravaged, by wandering barba- 
 rians (s). 
 
 Some phyfical caufe muft, therefore, have con- 
 tributed to the prefervation of the antiquities of 
 Egypt. Such a caufe is difcernible in the na- 
 ture of the climate and of the foil. The air is 
 dry ; rain feldom falls, and froft is unknown. 
 Wet and cold, therefore, whofedeflrudive agency 
 
 waftes. 
 
IN APvABIA, i^C. 
 
 Waftes away, even the moll folid works of human 
 conftrudion, have here no influence. 
 
 The foil of Egypt, too, might furniih the in- 
 habitants with the molt durable materials fot 
 building. Through Lower Egypt, and in the 
 rifing ground on its confines, calcareous ftones 
 are found, of a particular fpecies and full of fmall 
 cavities. But, of thefe, no building, except the 
 pyramids, has been conftruded. In Upper E- 
 gypt, again, where the furface is unequal and e- 
 levated, are granites of all colours, the hardelt 
 known. The ranges of mountains are compof- 
 ed of granite ; and it was therefore eafy for the 
 Egyptians to employ in their buildings large 
 malTes of ftone, of a nature the moll proper to 
 refill the influence of all unfriendly agency, 
 whether phyfical or moral. The modern inha- 
 bitants of Egypt cannot break a column of gra- 
 nite, to employ it in building a cottage, as thofe 
 of other countries break pillars of marble, for fi- 
 milar purpofes. 
 
 Befides, the ancient Egyptians appear to have 
 fpared no expence or pains, in order to confer 
 durability on the works which they reared* 
 Their pieces of fculpture are all faiiant, and all 
 of a fize and folidity, unufual in the buildings 
 of the other nations of antiquity. The infcrip- 
 tions, although on fo hard a fpecies of ilone, are 
 
 fo 
 
^5^ 
 
 isriEBUHR's TRAVILS 
 
 lb deeply engraven, that the authors muii cef- 
 tainly have intended them never to be effaced. 
 
 Upper Egypt being more elevated than the 
 Löwer, mull have been firft inhabited. It feems 
 to have been the principal feat of the ancient 
 Pharaohs, who were fo powerful and magnificent; 
 for in it are the moil numerous and moll fuperb 
 monuments of antiquity ' ^ be found. Many 
 travellers ha » - .efcribed thefe intereiting ruins. 
 Pococke and Norden are the moll eminent. 
 They have carried their refearches fartheft, and 
 have given the moil exa6l and particular defcrip- 
 tions* 
 
 I had not great opportunity of examining the 
 curious antiquities of Egypt. All that I could 
 bring away, was a few of the figures that were 
 vv^orfhipped as idols, of bronze and burnt clay : 
 and thefe do no credit to either the tafie or the 
 ikill of the Egyptian artifts. In general, it ap- 
 pears, that this nation never excelled in the arts 
 of defign. Their paintings are remarkable for 
 nothing but glaring colours ; and their fculpture 
 is equally faulty in the defign^ and in the fi« 
 gures* 
 
 Chap. 
 
ilf ARABIA, l^a 
 
 Chap. Ii» 
 
 t/:e Pyramidso 
 
 . Of the antiquitie| of Egypt, the moft aftonifli^ 
 iüg, are, doubtlefs, me Pyramkl'^, The eye, if 
 not pleafed, is at leaft lingulariy ftruck by the 
 appearance of thofe enormous malTes. 
 
 The three principal pyramids are feen from 
 Cairo ; and every ftranger who arrives in that 
 capital is tempted to approach and examine 
 them. We have a number of defcriptions of 
 thefe pyramids already, and I fliall not encrcafe 
 the number. I fnall only mention fome obferva- 
 tions in which I am obliged to differ from thofe 
 who have gone before me. 
 
 The pyramids ftand upon the firfl hill between 
 Cairo and the weftern bank of the Nile, In go- 
 ing thither from Gee/b, \yq pafs a confiderable 
 arm of that river, over two beautiful bridges^ 
 conüfting each often arches. Between the two 
 » bridges is a long dyke, of fubftantial mafon-- 
 work. Several travellers reprefent the bridges 
 as works of the ancients. But the Arabic in- 
 fcriptions upon them, prove them to have been 
 built by the Mahometans. 
 
 Vol. I, T ' The 
 
^54 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 The travelier is aftoniflied, and feelä his ima- 
 gination in fome meafure expanded, when he 
 arrives at the foot of thofe prodigious maffes. 
 It is from this circumilance, I fuppofe, that the 
 pyramids are thought much higher, on a firil 
 view, than they actually are. My firfl care was 
 to meafure them. This I performed with all 
 the exadlnefs poiiible, amongft a crowd of jea- 
 lous and troublefome Arabs, by whom I was 
 furrounded ; and found the iargeft and fore- 
 mofl pyramid to be four hundred and forty feet. 
 I was furprifed to find the refult of my meafure- 
 ment fo different from what many other travel- 
 levs had given out to be the height of this pyra- 
 mid ; and was for fome time uneafy about com- 
 municating it to the public. Upon my return 
 to Europe, I found in the Defer iption of the plains 
 of Beliopolis and Memphis hy Mr Fonnnont, the 
 following paiTage : " Lord Charlemont, wha 
 arrived in Egypt, while I was there, told me,, 
 that he had meafured the height of the fore^ 
 mofc pyramid, and aiTured me, that it was on- 
 ly four hundred and forty four feet." The 
 agreement of this meafurement with my own, 
 rendered me lefs doubtful of the corre61;nefs of 
 my operations. 
 
 Thofe enormous maffes are built of foft cal- 
 - careous flone, of the fame nature as the rock on 
 which they ftand. it is prefumeable, then, 
 
 that 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 ^55 
 
 that all the polifhed ilone has been talcen from 
 the fame place, and wrought at fmall expence. 
 The fondnefs for the marvellous, therefore, fo 
 common to travellers, has caufed them to mag- 
 nify the expence and labour which thofe moun- 
 tains of hewn Hone muft have coil. With the 
 help of natural philofophy and natural hiftory» 
 w^onders of all kinds are reduced to their true 
 value. 
 
 To enhance the high ideas w^hich they hold 
 out, of the magnificence of thofe monuments ; 
 various writers reprefent the pyramids as having 
 been once coated upon the outfide with marble. 
 But, of this, I could not, by any pains, difcover 
 the ilightefl vefcige. Befide the third pyramid, 
 indeed, fome pieces of granite are to be feen ; 
 but thefe are neither large, nor numerous enough, 
 to afford reafon for fuppofing, that even one py- 
 ramid could be covered w^ith them. Thofe 
 blocks might perhaps ferve as ornaments, and 
 might poffibly bear the infcriptions, of which 
 none are, at prefent, difcernible on the pyra^ 
 mids. 
 
 I entered the foremofc pyramid, and examin- 
 ed the large chamber, with the coffer in it, of 
 which all travellers fpeak. But 1 did not fee 
 the fecond chamber, which was difcovered im- 
 mediately after our departure, by Mr Davifon, 
 who had accompanied Mr Montague into E- 
 
 T 2 gypt' 
 
J56 
 
 niebuhr'^s travels 
 
 gypt. That chamber is thirty feet above the 
 ürft, and as large, but not fo lofty in the roof. 
 
 The famous Sphinx is linking Hill deeper in 
 the fand ; and a great part of the body is alrea- 
 dy buried. It feems to be formed out of the 
 rock upon which the pyramid Hands ; acircum- 
 ilance which confirms my conjeöiure concern- 
 ing the place from which the Hones for build- 
 ing the pyramids were quarried. I found the 
 chin of the Sphinx to meafure ten feet fix inch- 
 es in height ; and the whole length of the coun« 
 tenance nearly eighteen feet. 
 
 The memory of the authors of thefe ilupen- 
 duous and fantaflic monuments has been loll 
 fome thoufand years fince : the pyramids are vi- 
 fibly decaying, and mull periih in their turn ; 
 although, if we may judge of the future by the 
 paft, feverai thoufand years mull Hill elapfe be-= 
 fore their entire decay« 
 
 Chap. Ill 
 
 Of the Hieroglyphics. 
 
 ^HE rnofl: judicious and enlightened authors of 
 antiquity, a part of whom had travelled in E- 
 
IN ARABIA, l5€. 
 
 157 
 
 gypt, fpeak of this country in tlie moil favour- 
 able manner. They celebrate the wifdom of its 
 Government, and the knowledge of its inhabi- 
 tants. Such a country, which muft afford fo 
 much information concerning the earlieft revo- 
 lutions of human fociety, may well engage our 
 particular attention. It is natural for us to v^ifli 
 to know its hiftory and inftitutions. 
 
 That we are at prefent ignorant of all thefe 
 things, is not the fault of the Egyptians : no 
 people on earth were ever more anxious than 
 they to tranfmit to pofiierity the mem.ory of their 
 ^'evolutions, and of their knowledge too, perhaps. 
 No country in the world contains more infrrip- 
 tions engraved on ftones of the mo ft durable na- 
 ture, than Egypt. But, this pains to inform 
 us has been rendered fruitlefs by the imperfec- 
 tion of the mode of v/riting this people employ- 
 ed. Inftead of characters expreflive of the diife„ 
 rent founds in their language, or ßgns m^arking 
 each a iyilable, with a determinate idea affixed 
 to it, fuch as the Chinefe ufe ; the ancient Egyp- 
 tians made ufe of emblems, to mark ideas fome^ 
 how referable to them, although by a very for-, 
 ced and difcant analogy. This is what we, af- 
 ter the Greeks, call hieroglyphic writing. 
 
 As the relation between allegorical figures and 
 ^he ideas which they are employed to reprefent, 
 cannot be at all times equally evident ; and as 
 
 they 
 
158 NiEBÜHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 tney depend often upon the way of thinking 
 peculiar to thofe by whom the iigns were invent- 
 ed, it is plain, that writing of this fort cannot be 
 legible v/ithout a key to explain the original 
 fignification of the characters. Some of the an- 
 cients have, indeed, explained a few of thofe 
 fymbols ; but we meet with an infinite number 
 of which nothing can be knov^^n. The hiero- 
 glyphics, therefore, cannot be decyphered, be- 
 eaiife we want the proper key. 
 
 ¥/hen the T ablet of Ifis became firft known in 
 Europe, fome learned men attempted to explain 
 it by guefiing from one figure the meaning of 
 nether ; but their data were infufiicient. 
 
 Yet, I would willingly hope, that the key fo 
 thofe myflerious writings of the ancient Egyp- 
 tians may yet be recovered. Various learned 
 men have difplayed aftonifning fagacity and pe- 
 netration in decyphering infcriptions in unknown 
 languages, where there has been a conßderable 
 quantity of characlers for them to exercife their 
 conjectures upon. Travellers ihould therefore col- 
 lect as many as poffible of the hieroglyphic cha- 
 rade rs, and publifli them carefully, that we may 
 thus be furnilhed with more points of compari- 
 fon for thofe fymbols, through a greater variety 
 of combinations. 
 
 The fcudy of the ancient language of ^ZJ^^t 
 would be equally neceflary for this purpofe. I 
 
 fufpeft 
 
iN ARABIA, l^C, 
 
 fufpe6t that the true nature of the hieroglyphics 
 has hitherto been miftaken, while all the fym- 
 bolical figures and charaders have been fuppofed 
 to be of the fame fort. After copying a confide- 
 rable number of hieroglyphics from obelifKs, far- 
 cophagi, urns, and mummies^ I began to think 
 I could perceive plainly that the large figures 
 were emblems of which the fmaller might afford 
 an explanation, i thought I could alfo diflin- 
 guifh, in thefe fmaller hieroglyphics, fome marks 
 of alphabetic charaders, or at leaft of a mixed 
 fpecies of writing, bearing fom.e refemblance to 
 the alphabetical. Wherefore, by the ftudy of 
 the language of the Pharoahs, we may ccme, 
 with more eafcj to decypher thefe fmall charac- 
 ters; 
 
 The hieroglyphic infcriptions are found chief- 
 ly in Upper Egypt, where all the monuments,, 
 and even the wails of thofe fuperb temples 
 which are ftill Handing, are covered over with in- 
 fcriptions of this fort. It is no lefs common up- 
 on the tombs of the mummies at Sahara^ The 
 embalmed bodies have covers full of hierogly- 
 phics ; and the lepulchral urns are marked witi> 
 them. Such as have been painted upon wood 
 and cloth are in as good a ffate of preiervation 
 as thofe which are engraven upon Hone. It h 
 very probable, that, in the caverns of Salcara, if 
 
 thefe- 
 
niebuhr's travel^ 
 
 thefe were examined, there are other more pre^ 
 cious antiquities. 
 
 To colled: thefe fcattered remains, would be 
 a matter of great importance. But travellers 
 feem to have neglected this care ; or at leaft to 
 have mifemployed their pains upon it. They 
 fatisfy themfelves with examining what can be 
 feen for money, by paying an infidel guide. 
 But, they ufe no means to gain the friendfhip of 
 the Arabs who rule in Upper Egypt. Without 
 the good will of this jealous race, it muft be im-= 
 poffible to make fuch refearches with eafe or 
 fecurity. The Arabs, if cured of their natural 
 diilruft, would afliil, inftead of obftruding the 
 curious refearches of ftrangers. But a perfon, 
 who v/ould gain their friendfhip, mufc flay long- 
 er in this country than is common for that tribe 
 of travellers who go into Egypt, merely that 
 they may fay that they have been there. 
 
 Other travellers are too indolent to take the 
 trouble of copying thefe ft range and fantaftic 
 chara61ers. This taüc becamie irkfome to me 
 too, at firft ; but, in a Ihort time, the hierogly- 
 phics became fo familiar to me, that I could co-- 
 py them with the fame eafe as alphabetic cha- 
 radters, and found the taik an amufement inftead 
 of a toiL 
 
 But one cannot engage, particularly in fuch 
 purfuits, without expofing one's felf to a variety 
 
 of 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C, 
 
 of inct)nveniences among an ignorant race, who 
 •regard Chriilians with diftruft, and are always 
 ready to infult or abufe them. But we often 
 bring fuch troublefome accidents upon ourfelves^ 
 by negleding to acquire a fufficient knowledge 
 of the manners and language of the country. 
 
 I myfelf often met with fuch inconveniences^ 
 in copying hieroglyphics at Cairo, where tht; 
 people are more mifchievous in their difpoli- 
 tions than in the country. Going to make a 
 draught, at one time, of a piece of curiofi- 
 ty that ftruck me, I carried with me a Mui- 
 4ah for protedion. The ftreet in which it flood 
 was very much frequented ; and a crowd of peo- 
 ple drew round us ; but, without offering any 
 infult, only admired my European dexterity in 
 writing with a pencil without ink. A Saradgi, 
 however, one of a body of foldiery, fomewhat 
 of the charader of huflars, in the fervice of the 
 Beys, came up, and, to ihew Lis confequence, 
 attacked me with abuüve language. The Mtd^ 
 lah advifed me to go away, before the fellow 
 fliould proceed to ftrike me. I returned at ano- 
 ther time ; and> to fecure myfelf againft a fimi- 
 lar interruption, gave a trifle to a faradgi, who 
 was Handing near. But another Ira'adgi came 
 up, and aiked me who had given me permiilion 
 to write there ? He whom I had paid, an» 
 fwered, " His mafler." The other replied. 
 
 Vol, L U that 
 
502 
 
 NIEBüHr's TRAVELS 
 
 that his mafter forbade me." A third tim&j 
 I returned, and had nearly finiflied my copy, 
 without difturbance, when the Imam of a mofque 
 obferved how I was employed, and made a noife 
 that obliged me to retire. Thus fhould I have 
 been difappointed of my purpofe, if 1 had fuf-- 
 fared myfelf to be difcouraged, and not oppofed 
 coolnefs and patience to their teazing and mif- 
 chievous arts. 
 
 At another time, when I was drawing Iket- 
 ches of fome fragments that flood before the go- 
 vernor's houfe, I was fuffered to proceed, with- 
 out interruption, for feveral hours* But at laft 
 « the governor fent a faradgi to carry me before 
 him. When I appeared, he afked my reafoii 
 for copying the Pharaonic infcriptions. When 
 I had explained it to him, he took my paper^ 
 and fliewed it to the nobles about him, who 
 laughed at the vain curiofity of the Europeans. 
 The Saradgi carried away my paper ; and, when 
 I aßced it from the governor, he told me, that I 
 might have it from the Saradgi, when I chofe. 
 This I underfLood to be a hint to give the feL 
 low a prefcnt ; and accordingly prefented him 
 with a crow^n ; upon which I had my paper re- 
 flored, and obtained leave to copy the reft of 
 the infcription. 
 
 That which is the greatefl "curiofity, and con- 
 tains the greateft number of hieroglyphics, is, a 
 
 coffer 
 
in 4RABIA, Is'C. 
 
 eoSer of black granite, fevcn feet long, Handing 
 near the old caflle, Kalla el Kahfcb, It was this 
 coffer that I had to come and go fo often to, be- 
 fore I could get a drawing of it made. Pocoke 
 and Maillet mention it by the name of the foun- 
 tain of treafures, or the fountabz of lovers. A 
 part of thofe infcriptions is covered over with 
 plafter ; for this fine piece of antiquity now 
 ferves as a ciftern for water. This coffer feem& 
 to have been the coffer of fome perfon of dif- 
 tindion. 
 
 A limilar coffer was dug up twenty years ago^, 
 and was conveyed to Cairo, to be placed in a 
 mofque.. But it was was broken in bringing it 
 alhore at Bulak, The fragments were placed a- 
 round a tree before the governor's houfe ; and 
 while they were in that iituation, I made a 
 draught of them. 
 
 I was told, that iimilar coffers flood at the en- 
 trance of feveral other mofques, containing, kiiike 
 manner, hieroglyphic infcriptions. But, not be^ 
 ing permitted to approach thofe mofques, I could 
 learn nothing pofitive about them. 
 
 I copied the infcriptions from a broken obe- 
 li&, and from fomq urns of vv'hite alabafter, of 
 which Norden has given reprefentations. The 
 Erench conful permitted me to make a drawing 
 of a very interefling piece of antiquity at his 
 houfe. It was the v\7ooden lid of a cofSn that 
 
 U 2. ^ ' had, 
 
164 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 had contained a mummy, and was covered alj 
 over with hieroglyphics, and with other charac-^, 
 ters that had fome appearance of being alphabe- 
 tical. But as Cairo was not the place in which 
 fuch infcriptions were to be found in the great- 
 efi abundance, >could not copy fo many of them 
 as I fhould have wifhed. 
 
 To facilitate the explanation of the hierogly« 
 phics, I have made out a table of fuch as occur- 
 moll frequently in all infcriptions. It may be 
 farther remarked, that certain figures or cha- 
 rasters occur oftener upon the obelilks, and o- 
 thers, again, upon the fragments of tombs. This 
 fad may be of fome ufe in helping to an under-^ 
 {landing of the meaning which they were in- 
 tended to convey (u)« 
 
 SECTION 
 
IN ARABIA, ' X$.5 
 
 SECTION YI. 
 
 jaUIlNEy FROM CAIRO TO SUEZ AND MOUK 
 SINAI. 
 
 Chap L 
 
 Preparations for our departure. 
 
 Although the chief obje61 of our voyage was 
 to vifit Arabia, we were unwillingly detained in 
 Egypt for nearly a year. Several circumftances 
 obliged us to this involuntary delay. 
 
 On account of the pretended fanctity of the 
 pilgrims, Chriftians are prohibited from travel- 
 ling to Arabia by land, with the caravan for 
 Mecca. They are under a neceility, therefore, 
 of w^aiting till the feafon when the Red Sea be- 
 Gomes navigable, and vefiels fail from the har- 
 der of Suez for Jidda. 
 
 While 
 
NIEBUHR^S TRAVEi,3i 
 
 While we waited tliefe opportunities, we founci 
 it equally impoffible to vifit mount Sinai, or Jib- 
 hel-el-Mokatteh, the celebrated hill of in- 
 fcriptions, both of which we deßgned to exa- 
 mine. The Egyptians had been at war, during 
 all the laft year, with a fmall tribe of Arabs who 
 dwelt in the environs of Tor, which renderfed 
 fuch a journey impracticable before the return 
 of the caravan from Mecca, the condudor of 
 which had been commiffioned to negotiate a,, 
 peace with the offended Arabs. 
 
 This ß^irmifning war had arifen from the in-'., 
 temperate rapacity of the Ar.abs, who gain their- 
 livelihood by hiring out camels, and carrying 
 goods between Suez and Cairo. " A number of 
 veßels laden with corn, are fent every year from 
 Egypt to Mecca. One of thefe veiTels had an- 
 chored near Tor, to take in water, which is bet- 
 ter and cheaper there than at Suez ; and the 
 Captain had made his v/hole crew go on {hore* 
 The Arabs could not reiift fach a temptation ; 
 but feized the Captain and the failors, and plun° 
 dered the veflel. While this fupply of provi-. 
 fions lafted, they gave themfelves little concern 
 about the refentment of the Egyptians. But, 
 when they had ufed all the corn, and dürft no 
 longer go to Cairo, for fear of having their ca- 
 mels taken from them, and being otherwife pu- 
 nifhed, they found themfelves much at a lofs for 
 
 tllQ- 
 
IN Arabia, \£c. 
 
 -the means of fubiiftance. They began, there-- 
 fore, to pillage the caravans which go and come 
 regularly between Suez and Cairo. They had 
 even the confidence to reprefent to Government, 
 that they would continue to rob the caravans, 
 till an amnefty fhould be granted them for what 
 was pail, and fecurity given that they and their 
 camels might come and go in fafety. 
 
 So feeble is the authority of the Sultan who 
 calls himfelf fovereign of Y.^^y'^t^ that an handful 
 of raggamuffins ventured to brave the pride of 
 the Ottoman throne, and came off with im^puni^ 
 ty. To reilore peace and fecurity, the regency 
 at Cairo found themfelves obliged to empower 
 the Emir Hadgi to make the concefiion which 
 the Arabs required. The treaty was according- 
 ly concluded at a place where the caravan halt» 
 ed, on their return from Mecca. 
 
 AlTcon as v/e received notice of this event, 
 by the difcharge of a cannon upon the arrival of 
 a courier with the news ; we immediately pre- 
 pared to fet out. Preparations for fuch a jour- 
 ney as that which vre prcpofed to make, would 
 not occafion much trouble in Europe : but in 
 the Eafl, make a very ferious and difficult con^ 
 cern. They merit a place here : for an account 
 of them m.ay contribute to the fuller reprefen- 
 tation of the manners of the Eait, and will Ihev*/ 
 
klEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 what a variety of means mull there be employ- 
 ed to obtain the common conveniences of life. 
 
 A traveller, although he know a little of the 
 language, cannot want fervants, who mull have 
 been previoufly in thofe parts which he means 
 to vifit. With fuchj we were ill provided. 
 Our Swedifh fervant was as much a ftranger 
 we ourfelves ; we had a Greek cook who had 
 lived long enough in CairOj but had never been 
 out of Egypt ; an interpreter to affifl: ourphyfician 
 in his pradtice, who was a renegado Greek, and 
 had never travelled before ; and a young Jew 
 of Sana, who had before travelled the fame road 
 upon which we were entering, but was regard- 
 ed with fovereign contempt by the Mahometans^ 
 on account of the nation to which he belonged. 
 None of thefe could be of much of fervice to us, 
 ill our intercourfe with the Arabs. 
 
 We had fo much the more occafion to fupply 
 ourfelves carefully with provifions and articles 
 of furniture i fome of which might be ufed^ 
 with advantage in Europe, in military expedi- 
 tions. In the defarts through v/hich we were 
 to travel, tent and beds were indifpenfibly ne- 
 ceiTary. We had a neat colle6lion of kitchen u- 
 teniils made of copper, and tinned without and 
 within. Inflead of glaiTes which are fo liable to 
 "be broken, we ufed alfo copper bov/ls complete- 
 ly timied. A bottle of thick leather fervsd us 
 
 as 
 
IN ARABIxS Ciff. 169 
 
 as a caraffe. Our butter we put up in a leathern 
 jar. In a wooden box, covered with leather, 
 and parted out into flielves, we ftored our fpice- 
 ries of all forts ; and in another fimilar box, we 
 laid our candles ; in the lid of the latter, we fix^ 
 cd an iron focket which ferved us for a candle- 
 Hick. We had large iantborns of folded linen, 
 with the lid and bottom of white iron. For a 
 table^ with table linen, we had a round piece of 
 leather, with iron rings at certain diftances round 
 it, through which cords were palTed, after our 
 meals, and the table hung, in tiie form of a purfe, 
 upon one of our camels*. But we inrprudently 
 put our wine into great flaiks, called in the Eafl 
 Bamasjanes^ and large enough, each of them to 
 contain twenty ordirnaiy bottles. I'hefe vafes 
 are very liable to be broken by the jolting cf the 
 camels,, as we found by the lofs of a part of oar 
 wine. It is much better to put your wine^ when 
 you are to carry it upon camels,, into goat's Iki^a 
 bottles. This fpecies of veffels, may, at firft 
 appear little fuitable lor the purpofe; but they 
 communicate no bad tafle to the liquor, if the 
 ikins have been properly drelTed. The fame 
 veflels anfwer befh to carry the llore of water 
 that is requißte in traveiUng through dry and 
 defart countries. 
 
 My companions hired horfes. But I, cut of 
 euriolity,. preferred a dromedary^ and found n© 
 
 Vol L X reafon 
 
170 niebuhr's travels 
 
 reafon to repent of my choice. On a camel, th^ 
 faddle is always open above, that it may nothure 
 the bunch of the animal ; but a dromedary's 
 faddle is made like a horfe's, and covers the- 
 bunch. The dromedary, as well as the camel^ 
 kneels to receive a load, or a rider upon his back. 
 At a certain lignal, he droops his head and neck, 
 fo that one can alight and remount whenever 
 there is occaßon, wtthout making the animal 
 Hop. I fpread my bed clothes upon my faddle, 
 and was thus enabled to change my pofture^ 
 and to feat myfelf fo as to avoid the dired: im- 
 pulfe of the fun's rays. A dromedary walks 
 with long and regular fteps, and the rider, of 
 confequence, feels the motion no otherwife than 
 if he were rocked in a cradle. When my com- 
 panions, who rode on horfeback, were weary and 
 faint by the fatigue of riding, and by the excef-^ 
 five heat, I found myfelf as little fatigued as 
 if I had litten all day at my eafe, in a chaifco 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Voyage J'rom Cairo to Suez. 
 
 The caravan with which v/c had defigned to 
 travel, waited a long while for the cohclufion of 
 
 peacQ^ 
 
IN ARABIA, t^'C, 171 
 
 peace between the Governors of Egypt and the 
 Arabs of Tor. A difcharge of cannons, on the 
 27th of Augufl 1762, gave us notice of the re- 
 turn of the caravan from Mecca, and, by confe- 
 quence of the coixlufion of a peace, which 
 would render the road fecure, by which we were 
 to travel. We went immediately to find the 
 Schiech from whom we had hired our beafts for 
 the journey. He had pitched his tent near the 
 village of Seriagus, where he, with his party^ 
 lay encamped, till we Üiould find it proper to 
 fet out. But no body muft ftir on that day. 
 
 When large caravans pafs through the terri- 
 tories of the independent Arabs, they have at 
 their head a Caravan-Bafchiy whofe bufinefs is 
 to guide the caravan, and to treat with the prin« 
 ces who may exa6l duties for the liberty of paf- 
 fing through their dominions. This chief regu- 
 lates the departure of the caravan, its journies, 
 and the times at which it is to reft. But fmall 
 caravans, fuch as öurs, whofe expeditions are 
 fhort, have no fuch guide. The chief merchant 
 in the party, always halts and proceeds as he 
 pleafes, and the reft follow his example. When 
 none of the merchants in the company is confi- 
 derable enough to have this influence, the Arab 
 who has moft beafts of burden, regulates the reft. 
 We did not know the precife time at which we 
 X 2 were 
 
172 NIEBUHr's TRAVElS 
 
 v/ere to let out, till the 28th of Aiiguft, when 
 we faw troops of paflengers begin to move. 
 
 Our caravan had no very formidable afped» 
 Beingin hafte to fet out from Cairo, before the 
 great caravan, which goes always to Suez, imme- 
 diately after the departure of the velTels, we had 
 not more than forty camels which were loaded 
 with corn and materials for building. Three 
 or four camels were employed in carrying an 
 anchor. I have already had occafion to remark^' 
 that carriages are unknown in Egypt and Ara- 
 bia. 
 
 We could not have been very formidable to 
 any that might have been difpofed to attack us. 
 Our camel-drivers, who were but few, carried 
 broken guns, and rufty or pointlefs fabres. A. 
 few Schiechs, indeed, to whom the moft of our 
 camels belonged, carried complete armour, and 
 rode upon dromedaries. But we could not truft 
 to them for defence ; for no Arab will willingly 
 rif^ his life to fave a Turk. It was our part, 
 therefore, to keep in the middle of the caravan^ 
 and on no account to leave them, or encamp a- 
 part, unlefs we wiftied to be plundered. In 
 fome places, where the danger was leaft, my 
 comrade and I ventured to go before the main 
 body of the caravan^ to reft and enjoy purer air 
 for a little* 
 
 Leaving 
 
IN ARABIA, 273 
 
 Leaving Senagus on the evening of the 28th 
 of Auguft, we paiTed near by a large village^ 
 called Hanjke, after which we returned into the 
 great road, and about eleven at night, encamp- 
 ed in a place, named Fl Urn hehad. The great 
 road confifls of a number of parallel paths, form- 
 ed by camels who travel in files, juft as they 
 pleafe. Two miles from Cairo^ we faw a fquare 
 area inclofed within a wall, feveral feet highj, 
 in which the principal inhabitants of Cairo af- 
 femble to receive the Emir Hadgi, at his return 
 from Mecca. From this place to Adgemd, with- 
 in four leagues of Suez, the country is abfolute- 
 ly a defart ; for the fpace of three and twenty 
 leagues, neither houfes, water, nor the fmalleft 
 fpot of verdure being to be feen. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th, we decamped 
 arly, after taking a very flight refrefhment. 
 We travelled omvards, thirteen leagues, crolTed 
 the mountain of Wehbe ; and about funfet, en- 
 camped near the hill ofTaja. The great caravan 
 from Mecca had pafTed on the preceding night ; 
 but they travelling farther than we to the 
 fouth, we had, in confequence of this, failed to 
 meet them. 
 
 On the 30th of Auguft, likewife, we fet out 
 early, and proceeded to Adgerud, where travel- 
 lers are induced to halt, by finding water fit for 
 drinking. Adgerud is a fmall cafile, that has 
 
 been 
 
174 
 
 niebuhr's traVels 
 
 been built by the Turks for the proteÖion of 
 the road, and th^ prefervation of the Veils be» 
 tween Suez and the entrance into the defart* 
 Although built only about the end of the fix- 
 teenth century, it is now ruinous^ Within three 
 hours, we reached Bir Suez, where are two deep 
 wells, furrounded with walls, and Ihut up with 
 llrong gates, to exclude the Arabs from the wa- 
 ter. This water, although bad, and almoll un-» 
 fit for human ufe, is however precious to the 
 inhabitants of Suez, as it ferves for their cat- 
 tle. It is drawn from the wells in leathern 
 buckets. Bir Suez being only ^ league from 
 Suez, we reached that city in good time. By 
 my obfervations, it is thirty two ordinary 
 leagues, or three and twenty German miles from 
 Cairo. 
 
 Caravans ufed formerly to travel by Koßmn, a 
 city that ftood farther to the north of the Ara- 
 bic gulf, and of which confiderable ruins ilill 
 ~ remain. In former times, üiips entered the har- 
 bour of this city^ which was famous among the 
 Arabians. But the waters of the Red Sea hav- 
 ing here fubfided within their ancient limits, this 
 harbour was of necefTity deferted, and that of 
 Suez conilruaed. It appears, from the rela- 
 tions of the earlier travellers, that the city of 
 Suez was not in exiftence in the end of the fif« 
 teenth century. It is firft mentioned in the be- 
 ginning of the fixteenth century, and Suez is 
 
 therefore 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. 175 
 
 therefore to be confidered as a city of modem 
 origin. 
 
 Chap. IIL 
 
 ■ Of the City of Suez» 
 
 The city of Suez ftands upon the wefteni fide, 
 but not juft upon the weftern extremity, of the 
 Arabic gulf. It is not furrounded with wails;, 
 but the houfes are built fo clofely together, that 
 there are only two palTages into the city, of 
 which that neareft the fea is open, the other 
 fhut by a very infufficient gate. The houfes are 
 very forry ftrudures ; the kans being the only 
 folid buildings in the city. Hardly any part 
 now remains of the caftle which the Turks built 
 upon the ruins of the ancient Koifum. 
 
 It is very thinly inhabited. Among its inha- 
 bitants are fome Greeks, and a few families of 
 Copts. But^ about the time of the departure of 
 the fleet, it is crow^ded with ftrangers. 
 
 The ground lying around it is all one bed of 
 rock, fiightly covered with fand. Scarce a plant 
 is to be feen any wehere in the neighbourhood^ 
 Trees, gardens, m.eadows, and fields, are entirely 
 unknown at Suez. Fifli is the only article of pro^ 
 
 V ill on* 
 
175- ' NIEBUHIl's TRAVELS 
 
 vißons plentiful here. All other neceflaries of 
 life, for both men and the domeflic animals^= ar« 
 brought from afar ; from Cairo, v/hich is three 
 days journey diftant from Suez ; Mount Sinai^ 
 at the diftance of fix days journey ; or Ghaffo, a^ 
 the diftance of feven. 
 
 At Suez, there is not a fingle fpring of water* 
 That at Bir Suez is, as I have already obferved^ 
 fcarcely good enou^ for cattle ; but it is drawn 
 to Suez twice a-dat for their ufe. The water of 
 the pretended well^ of Mofes is ftill worfe ; and 
 befides, theie wells ly at a league and a half's 
 diftance, on the other fide of the Gulf. The 
 only water fit for drinking that is to be had here^. 
 comes from the wells of Nabay upon the other 
 fide of the Gulf, and more than two leagues dif- 
 tant from Suez. The Arabs are the carriers ; and 
 they feli this water at the rate of nine French 
 fols a Ikin ; but, though reputed the beft, it is. 
 ftill Very bad. 
 
 Ship-buiiding is the chief employment of the 
 inhabitants of Suez : Although wood, and iron, 
 and all the other materials, are to be brought 
 from Cairo upon camels, and are, of confequence, 
 very dear, I know not the precife number of 
 Yeftels annually employed in the navigation be- 
 tween this port and Jidda : I was informed that 
 four or five are freighted by the Stiltan with corn 
 for Mecca and Medina, which they convey to 
 
 Jiddm 
 
IN ARABIA, iSc. 1^7 
 
 Jidda and Janiho ; and that fourteen others 
 ferve to carry paifengers between Jidda and Su- 
 ez. The Ihips built at Suez have a very auk- 
 ward rudder, made of a large beam, the ufe of 
 which is dangerous and inconvenient. I faw a 
 veiTel in this harbour of a different conflrudion, 
 which had been built at Surat. So durable was 
 the wood of which it was formed, that, although 
 it had been in confcant ufe for twenty years, it 
 was ftill in a perfectly found ftate. 
 
 The governor of Suez was a Bey from Cairo > 
 and he kept a very numerous houfliold. This 
 employment placed him in a fort of honourable 
 exile ; and being therefore very delirous of re- 
 turning to the capital, he liftened eagerly to any 
 predictions refpeäiing the period' of his return 
 thither. He afiured us, that a learned Mufml- 
 man had foretold the time when he was to be 
 recalled ; and he wilhed us to confuit the un- 
 known infcriptions in the defert, and fee whe- 
 ther they might not confirm the prediction of 
 the prophetic MulTulman. We excufed our- 
 felves, as ignorant of the fublime fcience which 
 ynveils futurity. This Bey was a Mahometaa 
 by birth, and the fon of a fugar merchant» 
 
 YoL. I. Z Chap-- 
 
178 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Chap, IV. 
 
 Particulars concermng the Arabs in the neighhourhcod of 
 
 Suez» 
 
 The Arabs who live about 7or, upon tbe othet 
 fide of the Gulf, are little afraid of the Turkifh 
 governor of Suez. When diffatisfied with him^ 
 or with the inhabitants of the city, they threat-, 
 en to bring no more water, and forbid them to 
 come near the wells of Naha, Thefe threats 
 if carried into execution, would reduce the city 
 to the laft extremities ; and all means are, there-* 
 fore, ufed to pacify them. They might eafily 
 ruin this city, if. they could refolve to give up 
 the profits which tDey derive frpm the carriage 
 of goods upon their camels from Cairo to Suez« 
 We ourfelves experienced the infolence of thefe 
 Arabs. The Schiechs, whom we had hired to 
 condud us to Mount Sinai, not having fulfilled 
 their engagement, we refufed, upon our return 
 to Suez, to pay the whole fum that had been 
 - ftipulated. They threatened to kill us : We 
 let them know that we were able to defend our* 
 fclves. They then declared that they would 
 deprive us of the water of the Naba. Mr Von 
 
 Haven 
 
IN ARABIA, Wc. 
 
 llaven replied, that this was a matter of no con- 
 fequence to Europeans who drank wine ; an 
 anfwer which moved the Turks to laugh at the 
 expence of the Arabs, But, as their tribe ef- 
 poufed their quarrel, it was ferioufly feared that 
 they might execute what they threatened, and 
 reduce the city to diftrefs for want of water. 
 Wherefore, the governor begged us to termi- 
 nate the difference, and pay the Shiechs what 
 they demanded. 
 
 One thing that we had in view in our jour- 
 ney, was, to examine the Hill of Infcriptions in 
 the defart ; and we were, therefore, defirous of 
 receiving all poffible information concerning fo 
 remarkable a place. On this occalion, we 
 difcovered a cufliom of the Arabs, which de- 
 ferves explanation, becaufe it is connected with 
 their manners. 
 
 On our arrival at Suez, we applied to fome 
 Greeks for information concerning that hill. But 
 ßone of them had ever heard of the name of 
 Jibbel el-Mokatteb. They direded us, how- 
 ever, to a Schiech of the tribe of Said, who had 
 paifed his life in travelling between Suez and 
 Mount Sinai. That Schiech was equally a 
 ftranger to the name of the Hill of Infcriptions. 
 But, underftanding that we would give a confi- 
 derable reward to the perfon who fliould guide 
 us thither, he returned next day with another 
 
 X 2 Schiech, 
 
18© 
 
 NI^BUHR'S TRAVELi 
 
 Schiech, of the tribe of Saccalha, who pretend- 
 ed to have a particular knowledge, not only of 
 that mountain, but of all other places in the de= 
 fart where infcriptions were to be met with* 
 By his anfwers to our queflions, however, we 
 foon faw that he knew as little as the former 
 of the place which we wifhed to vifit. 
 
 At laft, a Schiech of the tribe Leghat was 
 brought us, who, by his converfation, con- 
 vinced us, that he had feen ftones infcribed with 
 unknown charaders. When he learned that the 
 objcd of our curiofity was called Jibhel-el-Mo- 
 katteb, he afliired us that this was the name of 
 the mountain among all the Arabs who knew 
 it. 
 
 Pleafed with finding, at length, an inhabitant 
 of the defart, at ieaft, who could guide us to the 
 place where the infcriptions were to be feen ; 
 we determined to take him for our conductor, 
 efpecialiy becaufe his abode, as he told us, was 
 near to that mountain. But the other two 
 Schiechs, who had brought us the latter, warm- 
 ly oppofed our purpofe, and infifted upon accom- 
 panying us, as well as he. The inhabitants of 
 Suez, advifed us to take them all three, and told 
 us, that we could not travel the defart in fafety, 
 without having guides from every one of the 
 three tribes, that inhabited the country between 
 Suez and Mount Sinai* 
 
 This 
 
In ARABIA, ^Ch 
 
 This ad dee referred to the cuflom above- 
 inentioned, which renders Arab guides or Gba - 
 Jirs neceflary. Any perfon, whether Chriftian 
 or Mahometan, who travels either by fea or land 
 along the coaft of Arabia Petraea, clioofes a Gha- 
 ßr, a guide, or protector, to whom he makes pre- 
 fents, either from time to time, in the courfe of 
 his journey, or at leaft upon his fafe return. He 
 thus travels fecure and unmolefted. If the vef- 
 fel in which he fails, happens to be fhipwrecked, i 
 it is plundered by the Arabs ; but his Ghoßr^ 
 if prefent, faves his goods from pillage. If the 
 perfon whom he names as his Ghaßf\ be abfent, 
 his property/ is however, fet apart. But, if he 
 have no Ghaiir, or name a f ccitious one, he is 
 plundered, without regard to his rank or charac» 
 ter. The Turkiih merchants, from avarice, to 
 fpare a trifling prefent, or from pride, to avoid 
 aiTociating with an Arab Schiech, feidom take 
 Ghafirs, but they fuffer for the negied. For 
 thefe rights of hofpitality and friendfhip are held 
 facred among thofe Arabs. 
 
 Vv^e therefore took with us the three Schiechs, 
 to guide us to Mount Siiiai. They fapplied us 
 with camels for ourfelves and pur fervants. To 
 prevent difputes, we had our contrad written 
 out by the Cadi of Suez, in the prefence of the 
 Governor. 
 
 Chap, 
 
NiEBUtiR^S TRAVEL! 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 journey from Suez to Mount Si/iaL 
 
 were anxious to fet out, that we might re-- 
 turn to Suez before the firft ftiips fliould fail, in 
 the beginning of Odober. In the fücteeding 
 months, the paffage to Jidda becomes too dan- 
 gerous. But our painter, Mr Baurenfiend, had 
 fallen ill, immediately after our arrival at Suez, 
 from the exceffive fatigues which he had under- 
 gone. Although his affiftance was necelTary in 
 our expedition, yet Mr Von Haven and I refol- 
 ved to fet out by ourfelves, leaving MeiTrs For- 
 Ikal and Cramer at Suez, to take care of our fick 
 friend. 
 
 On the 6th of September 1762^ we croiTed the 
 gulph, and fet out next morning with our Arabs, 
 Befide the three Schiechs and their fervants, wc 
 were accompanied by feverai of their friends^ 
 who had, for fome time, carried water from the 
 Wells of Naba to Suez, and were now going to 
 fee their friends in the defart, hoping to live at 
 our expence by the way. It is a rule with thefe 
 people, that an Arab of diftindion, travellings 
 mull maintain all who choofe to accompany 
 
 him;, 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 183 
 
 bim, whether it be at his own defire or not. We, 
 as we lived at fome expence, were thought to be 
 very rich. 
 
 The firft day we travelled along the eoaft of 
 the Arabic gulph, through a fandy plain, having 
 3 few hills fcattered over it. The Arabs calj 
 fuch plains, when they ly fome what low, Wadi^ 
 or vallies, becaufe water remains ftagnant in 
 them, after heavy rains. We relied under a 
 palm-tree, in a place called Aljnm Miifa^ Mofes^ 
 fountains. Thefe pretended fountains, are five 
 holes in the fand, in a well of very indifferent 
 water that becomes turbid, whenever any of it 
 is drawn. As the holes bear the name of Mofes 
 
 a 
 
 the Arabs afcribe them to the Jewißi law-giver. 
 After a day's journey of five German miles and 
 a half, we encamped on the fand, in the plain of 
 El-Ti, In the evening, a violent blaft of wind 
 raifed the fand about us, by which we were not 
 more incommoded than a fimilar incident would 
 have incommoded us inEurope. 
 
 The country through which we palTed, is fa- 
 mous as the fcene of the emigration of the Jews, 
 under Mofes. We were therefore defirous of 
 learning from the Arabs, the names of all the 
 places, and of all the mountains, efpecially in 
 our way. Mr Von Haven who could not refolve 
 to make himfelf familiar with the Bedouins, 
 could obtain nothing but vague and uncivil an« 
 
 fwers 
 
IC)4 KIEBUKR^S TRAVELS 
 
 fwers from them. I again fought to gain tlie 
 confidence and friendfhip of one of thofe Arabs^ 
 by making him fome prefents, and caufing him 
 to ride fomttimes behind me upon my cameL 
 From him I received honeft and diftind anfwers. 
 To the objeds which I pointed out to him, he. , 
 gave the fame names coming as going. I like- 
 wife meafured the diftances of places, by count- 
 ng the ileps of the camel, and comparing the 
 number with the time in which they were tra- 
 velled, by my watch. By means of a gompafs^ 
 I diftinguifiied, likewife, the diredions of the 
 road. None of the Arabs underftood the na- 
 ture of this inftrument. It is plainly^ there-=' 
 fore, an idle tale, that they follow the direclion 
 of the compafs, in travelling through their de- 
 farts. 
 
 On the 8th of September, we travelled through ' 
 the plain of Girdan, We faw, on our way, ar^ 
 enormous mafs of rock, that had fallen from a 
 neighbouring mountain. We entered next the 
 valley of GirG?idel, and, after proceeding five 
 miles and a half farther, found ourfelves in the 
 vicinity of Jihhel Haminem Faurum, Next day, 
 fending our fervants forward, we ourfelves flay- 
 ed to examine thefe environs. In the rainy fea- 
 fön, a confiderable torrent runs through the val- 
 ley of Girondel. It was at this time dry ; yet? 
 by digging in the bed, to the depth of two feet^ 
 
 we- 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 185 
 
 we found better water than that which is ufed 
 at Suez. This valley not being deficient in wa- 
 ter, has in it feveral trees, and even groves, that 
 appear fingularly ftriking to travellers from Cai- 
 ro, who have feen no fimilar appearance in the 
 previous part of their journey. 
 
 Hammam Faraun is the name of a hot fpring 
 which rifes by two apertures out of a rock, at 
 the foot of a high mountain. It is ufed in baths 
 by the neighbouring fick, who commonly ftay 
 forty days for a cure, during which their only 
 food is but a fruit, called Lajfaf, which grows 
 here. An extenfive burying place near the 
 baths, fuggefted doubts in my mind of the bene- 
 ficial eSeds of this regimen. The tradition that 
 the Jews pafied.this way, and that Pharaoh's ar- 
 my was drowned here, has occafioned this place 
 to receive the name of Birket-eLFaraun, The 
 Arabs imagine that Pharaoh is doing penance 
 at the bottom of this well, and vomits up the 
 fulphureous vapour with which the water is im- 
 pregnated. 
 
 This Eaflern fide of the Arabic gulph, is tole» 
 rably level and uniform. But the oppofite fide 
 is one range of lofty mouutains ; broken, how» 
 ever, and divided by two vales, by one of which 
 we mufi: pafs in travelling from Egypt to the 
 fiiore of the Pved Sea. 
 
 Vol L a a' ' We 
 
iB6 
 
 KIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 We turned by degrees towards the north-eaftj 
 in purfuing the dired: road to Mount Sinai, and 
 at length entered a narrow vale, which appear- 
 ed to have been cut by the torrents, in the rock. 
 The mountains which rofe upon every fide of us^ 
 in uninterrupted chains, were maifes of a fort 
 of limeftone intermingled with veins of granite» 
 In feveral places through them, I difcovered a 
 quantity of putrified fhells, of a fpecies which 
 is to be found with the living Ihell-fifh in it, in 
 the Arabic gulph One of thoie hills is entire-^ 
 ly covered with flints. The granite becomes 
 more and more plentiful, as we approach Mount 
 Sinai. ' 
 
 Our road lay often along the brink of precipices, 
 commonly through ftony glynns, and fometimcs 
 through wide vallies, watered and fertile. Such 
 "were Ufaitu, El Hamer^ and Warjan, We paf- 
 fed, alfo, in our w ay, by Nafie, the feat of fome 
 Bedouins of this country. As water was fome- 
 times at a diilance from the places where we 
 encamped, our fervants were obliged to go to 
 bring it. We could have wiflied to accompany 
 them, in order to fee a little of the country ; bEt 
 our guides would not always permit us. 
 
 After palTmg through the valley of Warfan^ - 
 we turned a little out of the highway, and in the 
 fame evening reached the abode of our chief of 
 the tribe of Leghat, As it could not be far from 
 
 Jibbel 
 
IN Arabia, ^c. • 187 
 
 Jibbei el Mokatteb, I began to hope that I might 
 take this opportunity of going thither. But the 
 converfation of the Schiech made me foon give 
 up that hope. In my defcription of this moun- 
 tain, which I did not fee till my return, the 
 reader will find an account of what happened to - 
 me upon this occafion» 
 
 The Schiech had given notice of his arriva| 
 to fever al of his friends, who, to the number of 
 ten or twelve, came to fee him. I left him to 
 entertain his gueits, and in the mean time rang- 
 ed over feveral hills in the neighbourhood. I 
 faw by accident, in a fequeftered fpot, a wretch- 
 ed tent, the dwelling of our Schiech, in which 
 were his wife and filler, bufy grinding corn. 
 One of the women came out of the tent, to pre- 
 fent me with a bit of gum, and did not refufe a 
 fmall piece of money in return. At a little far- 
 ther diftance, I met the Schiech's fon, who was 
 tending goats, and converfed with him for a con-> 
 fiderable time, I was furprifed at the fenfe^ 
 gravity, and affurance of the child, who feeraed 
 to be, in no degree, embarralTed by the prefence 
 of a ftranger. He invited me very kindly to 
 the houfe, to drink fome excellent water which 
 had been drawn on that fame day from the welL 
 I. had here an opportunity of remarking the re- 
 lation between language and manners. A tent^ 
 of which the original Arabic name is Cheime, is, 
 A a 2 however^ 
 
288 
 
 niebühr's travels 
 
 however, called by thefe Bedouins, Beit, whicli 
 iignifies boufe ; becaufe they ha«ve no other hou- 
 fes than tents. 
 
 Moll of our Schiech's friends were dillinguifh- 
 ed by the fame title of Schiech, although no- 
 wife fuperior in their air or drefs, to the vulgar 
 Arabs. I hence fuppofed the title to mean no 
 more among the Arabs, than Malier, or Sir, with 
 us. 
 
 Being determined to proceed on to Mount 
 Sinai, we fet out from the dv^^eliing of our Schiech 
 of Beni Leghat, on the 12th of September. The 
 country became more mountainous, as we advan- 
 ced. Yet we paiTed through fome pleafant val- 
 lies ; fach were thofe of Cbamela, Babur\ Barak^ 
 and Genna, Before reaching the vale of IJraitu^ 
 which, although furrounded with rocky and pre^ 
 cipitous mountains, difplays fome rich and cheer- 
 ful proiped;s, we were obliged to go over ano- 
 ther lofty and ahrioft inacceffible hill. 
 
 In this vale we met an Arabian lady attended 
 by a fervant. In refpecl to our Schiech, fhe 
 quitted the road, alighted from her camel, and 
 paifed us on foot. Another woman veiled, and 
 walking on foot, who happened to meet us in fo 
 narrow a part of the valley of Genna, that fhe 
 could not avoid us, fat down as we palled, and 
 turned her back upon us. I gave her the falu- 
 tation of peace ; but my con^duclors told me, that 
 
 fhe 
 
ilie had turned her back in refpecl to us as gran- 
 gers, and that I had done v^rong in faluting 
 her. ' 
 
 At the diftance of nearlj feven German miles 
 from the dwelling of our Shiech of the tribe of 
 Leghat, we found the abode of our other Schiech 
 of the tribe of Said. The latter was as little 
 v/illing as the former had been, to pafs fo near 
 his family without feeing them. "We v^^ere a« 
 gain therefore obliged to leave the highway, and 
 to follow our condudor half a league out of the 
 road. The Arabs fet up our tents near a tree, 
 in the valley of Faran, and left us to amufe our- 
 felves there, in the beft manner wis could, till 
 they v/ent to fee their friends in gardens of date- 
 tree^, fcattered over the valley. V/e w^ere at 
 no great diftance from our Schiecli's camp^ 
 which confided of nine or ten tents. V/e were 
 informed that the ruins of an ancient city were 
 to be feen in the neighbourhood. But, when 
 the Arabs found us curious to viiit it, they left 
 us, and would give us no farther account of it. 
 
 The famous valley of Faran, in which we nov^ 
 were, has retained its name unchanged fince the 
 days of Mofes, being ftill called Wadi Faran^ 
 The Valley of Faran, Its length is equal to a 
 journey of a day and a half, extending from the 
 foot of Mount Sinai to the Arabic Gulf. In the * 
 rainy feafon, it is filled with water ; and the 
 
 inhabitants 
 
tgÖ . I^IEBÜHR's TRAVELS 
 
 inhabitants are then obliged to retire up the hills : 
 It was dry, however, when we paffed through 
 it. That part of it which we faw was far from 
 being fertile, but ferved as a pafture to goats^ 
 camels, and affes. The other part is faid to be 
 very fertile ; and the Arabs told us^ that, in 
 the diilridis to which our Ghaiirs had gone, 
 were many orchards of date trees, which pro- 
 duced fruit enough to fuftain fome thoufands of 
 people. Fruit muil, indeed, be very plenteous 
 there : for the Arabs of the valley bring every, 
 year to Cairo an ailonifliing quantity of dates, 
 raiiins, pears, apples, and other fruits, all of ex- 
 cellent quality. 
 
 Some Arabs, who came to fee us, offered us 
 frefh dates, which were yellow, but fcarcely ripe. 
 The chief our Schiech's wives, (for he had two) 
 came iikewife to fee us, and prefented. us v/ith 
 fome eggs and a chicken. The two wives of 
 our Schiech prefided over two different depart- 
 ments of his affairs* One was placed at fome 
 diftance where our tents happened to be pitch- 
 ed, in order to manage a garden of date-trees. 
 The other w^as our neighbour, and fuperintend-» 
 ed the cattle and the fervants. The latter would 
 not enter our tents ; but fat down, near enough 
 by to converfe with us. She complained of her 
 hufband, who neglecled her, ihe faid, for her 
 rivaly and fpent all his time in drawing water 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc. 
 
 in Egypt) ill carrying articles of merchandizq 
 from one place to another. Our law, bv which 
 every man is confined to one wife, appeared to 
 her admirable. This was the firft opportunity 
 I had of con verfing, without refi;raint, with a 
 Mahometan female. 
 
 We left this place on the 14th of September, 
 and, after travelling two miles farther, in the 
 valley of Faran^ arrived at the foot of Jihhel Mu- 
 fa. Up this mountain we afcended a mile and 
 a half, and encamped near a large mafs of ilone, 
 which Mofes is faid by the Arabs to have divided 
 into two, as it at prefent appears, v/ith one blow 
 pf his fw^ord. Among thofe mountains we found 
 feverai fprings of excellent water, at which, 
 for the firfi: time fince my arrival in Egypt, I 
 quaffed this precious liquid with real fatisfac- 
 tion« 
 
 ■ Chap. IV. 
 
 Of Mount Shmi, and the Convent of St Catherine. 
 
 The Arabs call Ji.bbel Mufa, Tbe Mount of 
 Mofes, all that range of mountains v/hich rifes 
 at the interior extremity of the valley of Faran ; 
 
 and 
 
192 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 and to that part of the range on which the con- 
 vent of St Cath arine ftands, they give the name 
 of I'ur Sina. This fimilarity of name, owing^ 
 Hiofl probably, to tradition, affords ground for 
 prefomption, that the hill which we had now 
 reached was the Sinai of the Jews, on which 
 Mofes received the law. It is, indeed, not ea- 
 fy to comprehend, how fuch a multitude of 
 people, as the Jevv/s, who accompanied Mofes 
 out of Egypt, could encamp in thofe narrow 
 gullies, amidft frightful and precipitous rocks. 
 But, perhaps, there are plains, that we know 
 not of, on the other fide of the mountain. 
 
 Two German miles and a half up the moun- 
 tain, flands the convent of St Catharine. The 
 body of this monaftery is a building one hun- 
 dred. and twenty feet in length, and almoft as 
 many in breadth. Before it (lands another fmall . 
 building, in which is the only gate of the con- 
 vent, which remains always' ihut, except when 
 the bifhop is here. At other times, whatever 
 is introduced within the convent, whether men 
 or provifions, is drawn up by the roof in a baf- 
 ket, and with a cord and a pulley. The whole 
 building is of hewn ftone ; which, in fuch a de- 
 fart, muft have coil prodigious expence and 
 pains. 
 
 Before the convent is a large garden, planted 
 with excellent fruit-trees. The Arabs told us, 
 
 that 
 
IN ARABIA, i^Co 
 
 lliat the monks enter it by a fubteirraneous paf- 
 fage. 
 
 Thefe Greek ecclefiafticä are not allowed to 
 receive an European without an order from the 
 bifhop of Mount Sinai, who refides ordinarily 
 at Cairo.' He had promifed us a letter, but had 
 fet out, without our knowledge, to Conftanti^ 
 nople. By the favour of the Engliüi ambaffa« 
 dor at Conftantinople, we had obtained another 
 letter from a depofed patriarch, who had refid- 
 ed three years in the convent of St Catharine. 
 Believing that this letter might be fufficient to 
 gain us admittance, wt prefented it to thofc 
 clergymen, through a fmall chink in the wall. 
 They took fome time to conlider, and, af=. 
 ter making us wait long, let us know that they 
 could not receive us, as we had not a letter from 
 their biJhop. 
 
 During this parley, many Arabs, who had 
 obferved us from the neighbouring hills, gather-, 
 ed round us. They are paid a. certain fum for 
 every ftranger that is received into the convent* 
 When the bifliop happens to be prefent, the 
 gate is opened, and the convent mull entertain 
 all the Arabs v^^ho come in then. This cuf-» 
 tom is very burthenfome to thofe poor monks, 
 who have nothing but alms to live upon ; and 
 have their provifions, which they are obliged to 
 bring from Cairo, often ilolen by the way. The 
 
 Vol L B h Arabs 
 
194 
 
 niebuhr's tiiav±:l§ 
 
 Arabs are in general very dangerous neighbours. 
 They often fire upon the convent from the ad- 
 jacent rocks. They feize the monks whenever 
 they happen to find them without the walls of 
 the monaftery, and refufe to releafe them, with- 
 .out a confiderabie ranfom. We witnelTed the 
 infolence of one of thofe Bedouins, who uttered 
 a thoufand abufes againft the inhabitants of the 
 convent, becaufe they would not give him bread 
 at the very inftant when he afked it in a roguifti, 
 counterfeit tone of diilrefs. 
 
 That we might not occafion uneaiinefs to 
 thofe monks, we retired^ and encamped at a 
 quarter of a league's diftance from the monafte- 
 ry. As a recompence for our difcretion, they 
 immediately fent us a prefent of fruits. Grapes 
 could not but be delicious to perfons like us,, 
 who had travelled fo long in parched and uncul- 
 tivated regions. 
 
 I v^ifhed to chufe from among the Arabs who 
 had gathered about us, a guide to condud me to 
 Sinai. This, however, our Ghaiirs would not 
 permit ; which occaiioned a quarrel among them 
 and the other Arabs. Next day, however, our 
 Schiechs brought me an Arab, whom they qua- 
 lified v^ith the title of Schiech of Mount Sinai^ 
 ti procure him fome profit from us, by the right 
 w^hich he then arrogated to himfelf of attending 
 flrangers who came to vifit the mountain. 
 
 Under 
 
IN ARABIA, UCu 
 
 Under the condu6l of this newly created Lord 
 of Sinai, with our Schiechs, I attempted, on this 
 fame day, to clamber to the fummit of that 
 mountain. It is fo fteep, that Mofes cannot 
 have afcended on the fide which I viewed. The 
 Greeks have cut a flight of fteps up the rock, 
 Pococke reckons three thoufand of thefe fteps to 
 the top of the mountain, or rather hare, pointed 
 rock. 
 
 Five hundred fieps above the convent, we 
 found a charming fpring, which, by a little 
 pains, might be improved into a very agreeable 
 fpot. A thoufand fteps higher ftands a chapel 
 dedicated to the BleiTed Virgin ; and five hun- 
 dred above this, two other chapels, fituated in 
 a plain, which the traveller enters by two feall 
 gates of mafon-work. Upon this plain are two 
 trees, under which, at high feftivals, the Arabs 
 are regaled at the expence of the Greeks. IVly 
 Mahometan guides, imitating the pradices vv hick 
 they had feon the pilgrims obferve, Idifed the 
 images, and repeated their prayers in the cha- 
 pels. They would accompany me no farther ; 
 but maintained this to be the hioheft accelTible 
 
 o 
 
 peak of the mountain ; whereas, according to 
 Pococke, I had yet a thoufand fteps to afcend,, 
 I was therefore obliged to return, and content 
 myfelf with viewing the bill of St Catharine at 
 a.diftance (v). . 
 
 Ghaf- 
 
f 
 
 196 NIEBUHR's TRATEXi, 
 
 Chap. Vit. 
 
 Our return from Mount SinaL 
 
 In the afternoon of the 1 6th of Septemher, we 
 defcended Jibbel Mufa, and palTed the night at 
 the bottom of that cliffy mountain, at the open- 
 ing into the valley of Faran. Next day, after 
 advancing three miles through the vale, we halt- 
 ed near the dwelling of our Schicch of the tribe 
 of Said. 
 
 Our Ghafirs left us again, and went to fee 
 their friends in the gardens of date-trees. Dur« 
 ing their abfence, we met with a young Arab^ 
 riding on on a dromedary, who had made him^- 
 fclf drunk in one of thofe gardens. Underftand- 
 ing that we were Europeans and Chriftians, he 
 began to pour out abufive language againft us, 
 much in the fame ftrain in which an infolent 
 and ill-bred young man in Europe might per- 
 haps wantonly abufe a Jew. From this incident^ 
 wejudged that the Bedouins ufe wine. We. 
 could not help remarking, at the fame time, that 
 the law of Mahomet, with great wifdom, forbida 
 the ufe of ftrong liquors, as they have fuch ten- 
 dency to warm the paffions, which^ v/iththe in= 
 
 habitants 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 liabitants of hot climates, have naturally but too 
 much violence. In the cities, indeed, many of 
 the Mahometans are in the habit of getting 
 drunk. But, either for lhame, or for fear of pu- 
 nifhment, they never appear drunk in public 
 and take this vicious indulgence only in private^ 
 in their own houfes. Except that young man, 
 I never faw another Mahometan brutally drunk^ 
 in all my travels. 
 
 Our Ghafirs returned, and we continued our 
 journey on the 20th of the month. Next day I 
 advanced before my fellow-travellers, of purpofe^ 
 again to view the mountain, of which I fnal- 
 fpeak, when I come to defcribe the Egyptian 
 place of burial. 
 
 On the day following, we had an opportunity 
 of feeing a part of the road which we had palTeci 
 by night, when travelling to Jibbel Mufa. In 
 this place, near a defile, named Om-er-ridg-Iein^ 
 I found fome infcriptions in unknown characters, 
 which had been mentioned to me at Cairo„ 
 They are coarfely engraven, apparently with 
 iome pointed inftrument of iron, in the rock, 
 w^ithout order or regularity. ^ Our Arabs thought 
 the time loll which I fpent in copying thofe in- 
 fcriptions. They were not very wTong ; but I 
 fnall fpeak my fentiments on this head, when i 
 giye an account of Jibbehei-Mokatteb. 
 
 On 
 
/ 
 
 19^ ; kiebuhr's travels 
 
 On the 25th of September, we arrived agaiot 
 at Suez. Mr Baurenfeind was much recovered. 
 Before we could reach the city^ w,e had to crofs 
 the fame arm of the fea, over which we had been 
 ferried when we fet out on our journey ; but we 
 could find no boat on the Eaftern fide. Perceiv- 
 ing, hov/ever, that the tide was ebbing, we ven- 
 tured to ford this part of the gulf. We fuc- 
 ceeded happily, a little north from the ruins of 
 Kolfum. Onx camels walked fteadily ; and the 
 Arabs who waded, v/ere oply in water to the 
 knees. This was perhaps the firft time that any 
 Europeans attempted to pafs here in this man-=.. 
 iier. This attempt fnewed us that the waters ia 
 the gulf are much influenced by the tides, and 
 convinced us, that in the ebb^ the Red Sea may 
 be fafely paiTed on foot (wj. 
 
 After my return to Suez, I was delirous to ex-= 
 amine alfo the weftern fide of the Gulf, and the 
 adjoining hillso I could prevail with no perfou. 
 to accompany me in fo dangerous an expedition, 
 for, at the fmalleft diftance from the city, the 
 pafienger is in no lefs danger of being robbed,, 
 than in the defart. At length, however, an A- 
 rab undertook to be my guide. But he trem- 
 bled at the fight of every human being that we 
 ii:iet ; and indeed thofe whom we met, feemed 
 to be no lefs afraid of us. Thus teazed and vex- 
 
 . cd 
 
tit ARABIA, ÜC. 
 
 ed as 1 was, I coeld make but few interefling 
 obfervations in thcfe petty excurfions. 
 
 I now, for the firfl: time, obferved an appearance 
 with which I was Angularly ftruck ; but which 
 became afterwards familiar to me. An Arab^ 
 whom I faw approaching at a diftance, upon a 
 camel, appeared to move through the air, with 
 the gigantic bulk of a tower ; although he was 
 travelling along the fand like ourfelves. Several 
 travellers mention this error of viiion, which is 
 owing to ä peculiar refradion produced in thefe 
 torrid climates, by vapours differing greatly in 
 their nature, from thofe which' fill the air in 
 temperate regions (x), 
 
 I could learn nothing certain concerning the 
 canal which is faid to have joined the Nile with 
 the Arabic gulph. No Arab would condud me 
 into that part of the country through which it 
 is probable that the canal might pafs ; becaufe 
 the tribe who inhabit it, were at variance with 
 the inhabitants of Suez. In the neighbourhood 
 of Suez, I could find no trace of any canal ; un- 
 lefs the valley -of Mofieiha^ between Bir Suez 
 and the city, may be regarded as fuch. After 
 the rains, a confiderable quantity of water re- 
 mains ftagnate in this vale, vvhich the inhabitants 
 draw for ufe ; and v/hen the waters are gone off,, 
 it is foon covered vdth grafs (y). 
 
 Ghap,^ 
 
StC0 ^NIEiuiTR's TRÄVELI 
 
 Chap.VIIL 
 
 t)f the Mountain of Infcriptions^ and cf an Egyptian 
 Burying-place» 
 
 Since Mr Clayton, bifhop of Cloglier, publifli- 
 ed the narrative of the Superior of a convent of 
 Francifcans at Cairo, we have heard much talk 
 in Europe of a difcovery made by that monk of 
 a mountain covered wholly over with infcrip- 
 tions in unknown charaders. It w^as imagined 
 that thofe infcriptions might furnifh fome tefti- 
 mony concerning the ancient refidence of the 
 Jews in that country : And, in this expedatica 
 the Bifhop of Clogher offered live hundre4 
 pounds fterling, to defray the expences of jour- 
 ney, to any man of letters who would undertake 
 to copy them. 
 
 But the marvellous part of this difcovery by 
 degrees difappeared ; and the fanguine hopes 
 which had been built upon it, vanifhed. Seve- 
 ral travellers had before obferved, upon the way 
 to Mount Sinai, fome rocks infcribed with 
 flrange characters : even in the third century, 
 thefe infcriptions had been mentioned by ä 
 
 Greek 
 
IN ARABIA, ^f. i6i 
 
 Greek author. Momonys had formerly copied 
 fome of them ; Pococke and Montague had copi- 
 ed others, and had communicated them to feve-^ 
 ral men of letters. They were judged to be nei- 
 ther Jewifh nor Arabic, from the appearance of 
 fome coarfe pieces of fculpture that accompa- 
 nied them. Some confidered them as a mixture 
 of Coptic and Arabic characters. At laft, a 
 perfon, who was very well verfed in Oriental 
 literature, conjeclured that they might be Phoe- 
 nician : an opinion w^hich is the more probable,» 
 as the Phoenicians had, at a very remote period, 
 fettlements upon the eaiiern coaft of the Arabic 
 Gulf. 
 
 As little were the learned agreed concerning 
 the purport of thofe infcriptions, and the infor- 
 mation which they might afford. Thofe who 
 examined them the moil accurately, concluded^ 
 from their polition, and the manner in which 
 they were engraven, that they related nothing 
 more than the names of travellers, and the 
 dates of their journies. In the fan\e place are 
 iliil to be feen a vaft number of ill-engraven in- 
 fcriptions, in Greek and Arabic, of the names of 
 perfons who have fought, by this means, to tranL 
 mit the memory of their exiflence to future times» 
 
 That I might be enabled to guefs for myfelf, 
 I copied a good number of thofe infcriptions in 
 unknown charaders, which we found engraven 
 
 Vol. I. C upoa 
 
202 
 
 I 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 upon the rocks on the way to Mount Sinai, and 
 fome of them upon the mountain. I have in 
 my pofleflion a copy of another infcription, the 
 characters of which differ from thofe which I 
 copied myfelf. It was copied by Mr Donati, a 
 learned traveller, whofe papers will be loft, as 
 he himfelf has not returned to Europe. The 
 place where thefe infcriptions are moft numerous, 
 is in the narrow pafs of Om-er-rid/Iein, which 
 I have already mentioned. The pretended Jib- 
 hel-el-Mokatteb may poffibly be in its neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 After examining the lituations and the engra- 
 ving of thefe infcriptions, I incline to the opi- 
 nion of thofe who think them of little import- 
 ance. They feem to have bee^ executed at idle 
 hours by travellers, who were fatisfied with cut- 
 ting the unpolifhed rock with any pointed in- 
 ftrument ; adding to their names, and the date 
 of their journies, fome rude figures, which be- 
 fpeak the hand of a people but little Ikilled in 
 the arts. When fuch infcriptions are executed 
 wdth the defign of tranfmitting to pofterity the 
 memory of fuch events as might afford inftruc- 
 tive leffons, greater care is generally taken in 
 the preparation of the ftones, and the infcrip- 
 tions are engraven with more regularity, as I 
 lhali have oecafion to obferre, when I come to 
 fpeak of the ruins of Perfepolis. 
 
 Akhougli 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. 
 
 203 
 
 Although convinced that the wonderful part 
 of the ftory of that mountain was perfedly ima- 
 ginary, we took pains at Cairo to inform our- 
 felves particularly concerning its lituation ; and, 
 as I have before mentioned, we found a Schiech 
 of the tribe of Leghat^ who pretended to know 
 the famous Jibbel-el-Mokatteb, and promifed to 
 condud: us thither. We had been directed to 
 examine thofe curiofities ; and vv^e were eager to 
 fee them, even for our own gratification. 
 
 Arriving, on the evening of the loth of Sep- 
 tember, at our Schiech's dwelling, he conduct- 
 ed us next day, with our other Ghaiirs, to that 
 hill, which, he had told us, lay in his neigh- 
 bourhood. We climbed up it by a fleep and 
 rugged path, and, inftead of infcriptions, were 
 furprifed to find on the fummit an Egyptian ce« 
 metery. We gave this name to the place, al- 
 though we had feen nothing of the fame kind in 
 Egyptj'^^here all fuch monuments are novv^ funk 
 in the fand. But a flight acquaintance with the 
 Egy^ian architecture and hieroglyphics, and 
 witl^ the antiquities difcovered by Norden in 
 Upper Egypt, may enable any perfon to fee 
 that the ruins on the top of Jibbel-el-Mokatteb 
 can be no other than Egyptian. 
 
 It is covered with ftones of from five to feven 
 feet in length, infcribed with hieroglyphics, and 
 C c 2 foma 
 
^04 niebuhr's travels 
 
 fome of them ftanding on end, while others -am 
 lying flat. The more carefully they are exa~ 
 mined, fo much the more certainly do they ap- 
 pear to be fepulchral ftones, having epitaphs in- 
 fcribed upon them. In the middle of thefe 
 ilones is a building, of which only the walls 
 now remain ; and within it are like wife a great 
 many of the fepulchral ftones. At one end of 
 the building feems to have been a fmall cham- 
 ber, of which the roof ftill remains* It is fup- 
 ported upon fquare pillars ; and thefe, as well 
 as the walls of the chamber, are covered over 
 with 'hieroglyphic infcriptions. Through the 
 whole building are various bufts, executed in 
 the manner of the ancient Egyptians. The fe- 
 pulchral ftones, and the bufts, are of hard and 
 fine-grained fand-ftone. The Egyptians are 
 known to have ufed granite, or fome fimilar 
 fpecies of ftone, in all their works of fculpture 
 or architecture. 
 
 The Arabs fuffered us to examine thofe curi- 
 oiities at oi|r leifure, and to note down upon the 
 fpot, fome particulars relative to them. But, 
 when I began to copy fome of the hieroglyphics, 
 they gathered all about me, and told me, that 
 the Schiech of the mountain would not permit 
 this to be done. That pretended Schiech was an 
 Arab of their acquaintance, whom they had a- 
 greed to honour with the title, and inveft with 
 
 the 
 
IN ARABIA, Wc, 
 
 tlie power, of purpofe to draw money from 115, 
 The lord of Jibbel-el-Mokatteb, who had w^ait- 
 ed our approach upon the top of the hill, came 
 up upon this, and told us, that he ^vould not for 
 an hundred crowns,. fufFer us to copy the leaft 
 thing, or permit Chriflians to carry "away any 
 treafures that w^ere hidden in his territories. The 
 Arabs believe, or pretend at leaf!: to believe, that 
 the Europeans are in poffeffionof fecrets by which 
 they can make any hidden treafure arife out of 
 the earth, and can convey it away through the 
 air, if they are only permitted to copy any in- 
 fcription indicating its fituation. Upon this fan- 
 cy, they raifed a claim of either iharing with 
 us in the treafures which might be found, or re- 
 ceiving an hundred crowns for their permiinoii 
 to us to fearch for themi, 
 
 Defpairing of being able tobring thofe felfißi 
 mortals to reafon : I fecretly promifed four 
 crowns to one of our Ghafirs, w^ho had always 
 fhewn himfelf honed and obliging, if he w^ould 
 accompany me, by ourfelves, to that place, upon 
 my return from Mount Sinai, and give me time 
 to copy what I pleafed. I have already obferv- 
 ed, that this Arab kept his word, and I eiTeded 
 my purpofe. The hieroglyphics v/hich I copi^ 
 ed, were as w^ell executed as any I had feen in 
 Egypt. One thing in which they differ, is in 
 exhibiting the goat, an animal common through 
 
to6 niebuhr^s travels 
 
 this country : Whereas, in Egypt, the goat ne^ 
 ver appears as an hieroglyphic fymbol ; but the 
 cow frequently. Thefe monuments may there- 
 fore may be fuppofed to be the work, not of per- 
 fons adually inhabiting Egypt, but of an Egyp- 
 tian colony, or of fome people who had adopted 
 the arts and manners of Egypt. The Arabs, 
 who had, in thofe early ages, conquered Egyptj 
 under their fhepherd kings, might bring with 
 them, when expelled from the fcene of their 
 canquefls, the arts and manners which they had 
 learned from the conquered people. 
 
 Whether this conjedure be rejected or admit- 
 ted, it Hill remains a difficulty how to account 
 for the fituation of this cemetery, which mull 
 have belonged to an opulent city, where the arts 
 were flourifhing, at fuch a diilance from the. 
 fcenes of cultivation, in the mi ddle of a defart, 
 and on the fumrait of a precipitous mountain. 
 This country is indeed more populous than it 
 feems at firft to be, for the, Arabs ftudioufly con- 
 duct travellers by roads paffing at a diftance 
 from their dwellings. But, it is impoflible to 
 conceive, how a populous and opulent city could 
 fpring up in the midll of fuch a defart. It is 
 more probable, that the inhabitants of fome ma- 
 ritime city upon the coaft of the Arabic gulph, 
 have been induced by a veneration for the moun- 
 tain, founded upon fome fuperftitious fentiments, 
 
 to 
 
IN ARABIA, . -20^ 
 
 to convey their dead to this diflance, that thej 
 might be interred in facred ground (z). ^ 
 
 Chap. IX, 
 
 Of fome Cußoms of the Arahs in the Defart, 
 
 The Arabs^ as is v/ell known, are divided into 
 tribes. Speaking of thefe, they fay Beiii, which 
 fignifies the fons of fome perfon ; thus Beni Leg-- 
 bat means the tribe of Leghat. Thefe fmall 
 tribes have each its Schiech, who is commonly 
 dependent on the Grand Schiech of fome more 
 potent tribe, 
 
 In our way to Mount Sinai, we paiTed through 
 the territories of Beni Ljeghat, Beni Saualha, and 
 Eeni Said. Thefe three tribes are particularly 
 conneäied with the convent of St (^atharine^ 
 pretending to be its protedors, although in rea-. 
 lity its opprefibrs. The tribe of Beni Said, who 
 are the more immediate neighbours of the con- 
 vent, have a very bad charader. They are ori-^ 
 ginaliy from Upper Egypt. 
 
 Thefe Arabs, although fcattered in feparate 
 families over the country, feem to be fond of fo-^ 
 ciety^ and vifit one another frequently. A fort 
 
 of 
 
i^IEBUHR's TRAVELS 
 
 of politenefsj too, prevails among them, but it ig 
 too ceremonious. We witnelTed the etiquette 
 öf their vilits, at the dwelling of our Sehiech of 
 the tribe of Leghat. His friends having had no- 
 tice of his return, came to pay their compliments 
 to him, upon the occafion. We had likewife 
 our fhare in their polite attentions ; for they 
 congratulated us, upon our travelling through 
 the defart, without meeting with any ünfortu« 
 ;itiate accident. When they falute, they join 
 hands, embrace, and aik one another, in a tone 
 of tendernefs, " How art thou? Is all v/ell?" 
 When a Sehiech enters a company, all rife, and 
 the Sehiech goes round to embrace every one in 
 ills turni 
 
 Some travellers have fancied, that a part of 
 their politenefs, upon fuch occafions, conlifts in 
 mutual enquiries after the health of their camels 
 and other domeftic animals. But fuch enquiries 
 are rather taken ill. Although, as it is natural 
 for two men of the fame profeflion, when they 
 meet, to converfe concerning their affairs ; fa 
 two Bedouins, whofe fole employment is to ma- 
 nage their cattle, will naturally queftion one a- 
 notlier upon that head ; juft as our peafants talk 
 of their fields and meadows. 
 
 Their way of living is nearly the fame as 
 that of the other wandering Arabs of the Kar- 
 das, and of the Turcomanns, They lodge in 
 
 tents 
 
il4 ARABIA, 
 
 tents made of coarfe ItufF, either black, ot flrip^ 
 ed black and white ; which is manufadured bj 
 the women, of goat's hair. The tent confifts of 
 three apartments ; of which one is for the men, 
 another for the women, and the third for the 
 cattle. Thofe who are too poor to have ä 
 tent, contrive, however, to ih elter themfelves 
 from the inclemencies of the weather, either with 
 a piece of cloth ftretched Upon poles, or by re- 
 tiring to the cavities of the rocks. As the lhade 
 of trees is exceedingly agreeable in fuch torrid 
 regions, the Bedouins are at great pains in feek- 
 ing out fhaded lituations to encamp in. 
 
 The furniture correfponds to the fimplicity of 
 the dwelling ; the chief article is a large ftraw 
 mat, which ferves equally for a feat, a table, and 
 a bed ; the kitchen utenfils are merely a few 
 pots, a few plates, and a few cups of tinned cop- 
 per. Their clothes, with all their valuable 
 moveables, are put up in leather bags, which are 
 hung within the tent. Their butter is put in» 
 to a leathern bag ; and the water which they 
 ufe, is preferved in goat fkins. The hearth for 
 the kitchen fire, is placed any where, and with-> 
 out much trouble : it confifts of a hole made in 
 the ground, and laid with ftones. Inftead of an 
 oven, they ufe an iron plate, in preparing their 
 bread, which is made into (mall cakes. They 
 
 Vol I, D d know 
 
210 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 know no mills but fuch as are moved with the 
 hands. 
 
 Their food is equally fimple. They are fond 
 of newly baken bread ; and in their excurfions 
 through the defart, they are particularly careful 
 to carry with them fufficient fupplies of mcaL 
 The only other vidluals which they ufe, are 
 dates, milk, eheefe, and honey. On occalions of 
 feftivals, indeed, a goat is killed and roafted. 
 Although poor, and much inclined to live at the 
 expence of ftrangers, they are, however^ hofpita- 
 ble among themfelves, and often invite one ano- 
 ther to fhare their meals. Our Schiechs never 
 accepted a treat from any of their friends, with- 
 out flriving to repay it. ' 
 
 The Arabs of the defart are drefled much like 
 their brethren in Egypt. The only difference, 
 is, that the former wear flioes of undreifed lea- 
 ther, and of a peculiar lhape. Many of them, 
 however, walk with bare feet upon the fcorch- 
 ing fand, which renders their fKin, at length, in- 
 fenfible. They arm themfelves, too, like the 
 Egyptian Arabs ; riding upon camels, as thofe 
 upon horfes, and bearing a lance, a fabre, and 
 f jmetimes a gun. 
 
 The drefs of the females in the defart, al- 
 though Ampler than that worn by the ordinary 
 women in Egypt, is in reality, however, the ve- 
 ry fame. The wife of one of our Schiechs, wore 
 
 an 
 
£N ARABIA, 
 
 an uncommon piece of drefs ; brafs rings of an 
 enormous fize, in her ears. Thefe women, liv- 
 ing remote from the world, and being wholly 
 occupied in the management of their domeftic 
 alTairs, appear to be, from thefe circumftances, 
 lefs fhy and fcrupulous than the other women 
 of the Eaft. They make lefs difficulty of con. 
 verfing with a ftraiiger, or expofing their face 
 unveiled before him. 
 
 It is commonly known, that the Mahometans 
 are permitted to have four wives. The Bedou- 
 ins, who are poor, and cannot eafily find the 
 means of fubfiftence, content themfelves with 
 one, for the moil part. Thofe who are in the 
 eafieft circumftances, and who have two wive.i» 
 feem to have married fo many, chiefly that they 
 might fuperintend their concerns in two differ- 
 ent places. The condud: of our Schiech of Be- 
 ni Said, as well as his converfation, led us to 
 make this reflexion. The difagreement that 
 fubfifted between his two wives, afforded an in- 
 ftance of fome of the inconveniences that attend 
 polygamy. 
 
 D d 2 SECTION 
 
SECTION VIL 
 
 YGYAGE FROM SUEZ Tp JIDDA AND LOHEIA, 
 
 Chap L 
 
 Departure from Sue%. 
 
 During our ab fence, feveral fmail caravans 
 had fucceflively arrived at Suez ; and the arrival 
 of the great caravan from Cairo, followed foon 
 after our return from Mount Sinai. Although 
 from pirates properly fo called, there is little to 
 be feared in the Arabic gulph, yet, fo unfkil-^ 
 ful are the mariners in thefe latitudes, that they 
 dare not venture to any diflance from the coalls. 
 This timorous mode of failing might expofe a 
 iingle vefiel to the robbery of the Arabs ; to a- 
 void which^ thefe iliip^ fail in little fleets ; four 
 
 always 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 '213 
 
 always fetting out together, that they may join- 
 to defend themfelves. 
 
 After the arrival of the caravans, Suez feem<= 
 ed more populous than Cairo ; and as fuch a 
 multitude could not long find fubfiilence there, 
 all were eager to fet out without delay. We 
 were recommended to the mailers of two fliips 
 that were to make the voyage. Although now 
 accufccmed to live with the Mahometans, yet, 
 m cur pa ßage to Jidda, we fullered a degree of 
 uneaiinefs^ which we had not felt upon occaiicns 
 of greater danger. Some Greeks had hinted to 
 us, that the MuiTulmans thought Chriilians un» 
 worthy of makuig this voyage in the company 
 of the pilgrims who were journeying to the ho- 
 ly city ; and that upon this account we fliould 
 not go aboard with fiioes upon our feet. Some 
 of the pilgrims, indeed, feemed to look upon us 
 little lefs unfavourably than a Capuchin going 
 to Jerufalem would regard a Proteilant, But^ 
 to be obliged to walk without flioes upon the 
 deck, was not an humiliating diftinclion, con- 
 fined to Chriilians : it was a rellraint to which 
 all on board were fabjecled. Nobody in thofe 
 vefTels but mud walk upon deck without llioes. 
 
 To avoid the company of the Mahometans, 
 we had hired an apartmient which we thought 
 the bell. In a chamber oppofite to ours, lodged 
 a rich black eunuch, who was going to Mecca ; 
 
 and^ 
 
114 
 
 NiEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 and, ufelefs as it could not but be to him^ was 
 accompanied with his feraglio, like a Turkiili 
 lord. In a large apartment under ours, were 
 forty women and flaves, v/ith their children, 
 whofe crying and noife gave us no little diflurb- 
 ance. Every one of the other pafiengers had 
 hired a place upon the deck, where he remain- 
 ed with his bales and parcels around him, hav- 
 ing only a fmall fpace vacant in the middle, 
 where he might drefs his vicluals, fit, and fleep. 
 Our Greek failors, v/ho were very unlkilful, 
 were perplexed by thefe incumbrances, and 
 could not go about to manage the veffel, without 
 trampling upon the goods of the merchants, 
 which produced endlefs difputes. 
 
 Our velFel, although large enough to have 
 carried at leail forty guns^ was very deeply la- 
 den, Befides her own freight, llie towed after 
 her three large fhallops, and one fmall ; the three 
 larger filled with pafiengers, horfes, flieep, and 
 even v/onien of pleafure. 
 
 The mailer, an honeft merchant from Cairo? 
 w^hofe name was Scho 'reibe^ would not have been 
 diftinguiüied among the feamen of Europe. He 
 took upon himfelf the talk of pilot to the vefiel ; 
 but was indeed a very unflcilful pilot. Between 
 the two compafles, where European navigators 
 fet a light, he had placed a large magnet, to re- 
 iiore, imperceptibly, as he faid^ their magnetic 
 
 virtue 
 
11^ Arabia, csV. 
 
 Vntue to the needles. It was with difficulty 
 that I perfuaded him to remove it. 
 
 With fach feamen, however, we were ob-- 
 liged to fail ; although they dürft not venture 
 out into the open fea, but coafted round the 
 ßiores, at the rifk of being daflied in pieces upon 
 jutting rocks, or fcranded upon banks of coraL 
 We had paid the mafter for dur paffage, imme- 
 diately after agreeing for it. But, according 
 to the cuftom of the country, we were obliged 
 to give an achiowledgement to the failors be- 
 fore going on board, which, in other places, is 
 not expected till paßengers be leaving the vef- 
 fel. 
 
 To avoid any difagreeable rencounters with 
 the other paffengers, we had taken care to go 
 firft on board. We had yet feveral days to 
 wait, till the Governor fhould infpedl the fhipf^ 
 to fee whether they were not overladen. This 
 duty he never fails to perform ; for a fam of 
 money is payable to him from each velFel, upcn^ 
 the occaiion, Vi^hich conftitutes a part of his re- 
 venue. 
 
 At length, after all thefe delays, the four 
 üiips weighed anchor about midnight, on the 
 icth of Odober. The iide upon which we paf- 
 led would have been dangerous, if the wind 
 had not been favourable ; for it is - covered 
 all over Vv'ith coral rocks. The fhips caft an-- 
 
 cho!< 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 ehor every night ; and we had then liberty to 
 go on fliore, if we chofe to run the hazard, in 
 order to fee any objed of curiofity. 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Of the Harbour of Tor, 
 
 HE harbour, in which we happened to caft 
 anchor, was once a place of fome coniideration : 
 but the fmall fort of Kalla and Tor is now ruin- 
 ous,, and without a garrifon. In its neighbour- 
 hood, however, are fome remarkable villages, 
 the inhabitants of which, as of all this barren 
 Goaft, live by fiüiing. 
 
 The inhabitants of Beled-efi-NaJfara are Greek 
 Chriftians. In the neighbourhood is a convents 
 but only a lingle eccleiiaftic in it. At Bir is a 
 well, the v/ater of which is better than that at 
 Naha^ but not equal to what the Arabs briiig 
 upon camels from the hills. All the pilots who 
 fail between Suez and Jidda live in the village 
 of JebiL Each of thefe pilots receives five 
 hundred crovv^ns for the voyage; and gains 
 fomething, beüdes, in thecourfe of it, by inftrud- 
 ing young perfons who accompany him, to 
 learn his art, which confifts merely in diftin- 
 
 guifhing 
 
IN ARABIA, Eir, 
 
 117 
 
 guifliing where the fand-banks and beds of co- 
 
 Mr Forflcal went on fliore to vifit the pre- 
 tended Valley of Elim, The ecclefiailic belongs 
 ing to the Greek convent, fent a guide to con-- 
 dud him thitheio He found it overgrown with 
 date trees. As he did not immediately return, 
 a report arofe in the velTel that he had been de- 
 tained by the Arabs, for attempting to take 
 draughts of their hills. Some merchants, who 
 were alfo jäniffaries, fet irlftantly out, to xt- 
 lieve and bring him back. Happily, the report 
 turned out to have been falfe ; and Mr Forlkal 
 returned, without having met with any uhplea- 
 fallt accident. 
 
 In this place, we had an opportunity of 
 feeing that whole range of mountains which 
 terminates with Jibbel Miifa, and forms ä 
 mafs of which the mountain of St Catharine's 
 is the higheft: peak. One of thofe moun- 
 tains rifes near Tor. We had a diflind view 
 of St Catharine's, and perceived how high it 
 towers above Sinai, This vail pile of moun- 
 tains fills the whole tradl between the two arms 
 of the Arabic gulf. Near the fhore, thofe 
 mountains fink into fmall hills, which flope in- 
 to fandy plains. 
 
niebukr's f^AViti 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 Vopge fvom Tor to Jidda. 
 
 W^E continued, till we had failed as far as Raf 
 Mahommed, to call anchor every night. But, 
 between that cape and the coail of Arabia, we 
 had to crofs the Red Sea at its full breadth. 
 The Europeans think this the fafeft route, as 
 there is not, through the whole, one rock on 
 which a Ihip can be wrecked. But, the Turks 
 think themfelves undone, whenever thej lofe. 
 fight of land. 
 
 So many misfortunes happen, indeed, froiü 
 the ignorance of their feamen, that they hav© 
 reafon for their fears. Out of four velTels that 
 had fet out rather too late, in the foregoing year, 
 two had perifhed in thefe latitudes. Some per>* 
 fons, who had made the voyage in thofe veflels, 
 narrated to us the particulars of that event, 
 which afforded no bad fpecimen of the nautical 
 Ikill of the Turks. When the ftorm arofe, alj 
 the failors and palTengers leaped into the boats, 
 and betook themfelves to the fhore. The two 
 Ihips being thus abandoned to the ilorm, one 
 was daßied againft a r-ock, and the other fank* 
 
 The 
 
IN ARABIA, ISc^ 
 
 219 
 
 The mafter of the third cut away the cords of 
 his boats, for which the paflengers threatened 
 to cut him in pieces. But, by explaining ta 
 them their danger, and promifing to extricate 
 them, if they fhould not perplex and impede 
 him, he prevailed upon them to affift him in 
 faving the Ihip. 
 
 In our pafiage, we found ourfelves in danger 
 of a worfe misfortune than fhipwreck. The fe- 
 males, who were lodged under us, more than 
 once fuffered linen, which they were drying, 
 to catch fire, in confequence of which the veffel 
 mull have been burnt, if we had not been alarm- 
 ed by their fcreams, and haftened to their aflift- 
 ance. The fecond time when this happened^, 
 our captain was enraged, and fent down an in- 
 ferior officer into the feraglio, to beat the wo- 
 men for their careleiTnefs. The inflidion of 
 this puniihment produced, at firft, no fmali 
 noife among them ; but it was followed by four 
 and twenty hours of a. fweet ßlence. Thofe wo- 
 men were indeed extremely troublefome and in- 
 difcreet. Hearing their voices fo Very near us, 
 I was tempted to look through a chink, and faw 
 three or four of them naked and bathing. 
 
 Nothing remarkable appeared upon the track 
 by which we failed, unlefs a few fmall and defart 
 iflands, and the fummits of fome diftant hills. 
 The laft objects that remained within our view, 
 
 E e 2 upon 
 
■220 
 
 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 upon the coaft of Egypt, were the famous moun- 
 tains of emeralds, called by the Arabs Jihhel 
 Sumrud, 
 
 On the 17th of Odober, an eclipfe of the fun 
 happened, which had been foretold to our Cap- 
 tain by Mr Forlkal. I Ihewed this phenome- 
 non through glalTes to the Captain and the prin- 
 cipal merchants, with which they were much 
 pleafed ; for, among the Mahometans, a perfon 
 who can predid: an eclipfe, paffes for an univer- 
 fai fchoiar, and efpecially for a very fkilful phy- 
 lician. Mr Forfical was confuited by feveral of 
 the paffengers, who fancied themfelves lick up- 
 on a fudden. He mentioned fome harmlefs me- 
 dicines to them, and recommended exercife and 
 a peculiar regimen. At length, one of the pil- 
 grims complaining that he could not fee by 
 night, my friend advifed him to light a candle* 
 This humourous prefcription did him better fer- 
 vice than the moil profound fi^ill in medicine 
 could have done : Thofe Muflulmans were pleaf- 
 ed to find him thus accommodate himfelf to 
 their manners, and became very fond of him. 
 
 When we came near to the fmall iile of Kajfa^ 
 ni, the Turks began to exprefs their joy at hav- 
 ing efcaped the dangers of fuch a palTage, and 
 liaving fo nearly reached the coafi: of Arabia* 
 Cannons and mufkets were fired 3 the fliip and 
 
 tha 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, '221 
 
 the boats were illuminated with lamps, and Ian- 
 thorns ; and all was exultation and jollity. The 
 failors went round with a box, aflcing a dole 
 from the paffengers ; every one gave fome trifle ■ 
 and they then threw into the fea,— -not the mo- 
 ney,— but die box in which they had coilecled 
 it. 
 
 Continuing our courfe, v/e incurred coniider- 
 able danger, in doubling a cape furrounded with 
 banks of coral, becaufe our pilot : as drunk. He 
 had frequently afKied us for brandy, on pretence 
 that he could not fee the hills, or the outline of 
 the coaft, unlefs his light were cleared by the 
 drinking of a little ilrong liquor. Wc had re-= 
 fufed him, for fear of giving offence to the other 
 MuiTulmans ; but we foon faw that they are 
 not fo fcrupulous, for the Captain fent to us 
 very morning for a quarter of a bottle of brandy 
 to his pilot. The Greek merchants might per- 
 haps have made him drunk, by adding to the 
 dofe which he received daily from us. 
 
 We arrived foon after at Jamho^ a walled 
 town near the fea, and having a fafe harbour. 
 Not having feen a fmgle houfe, fmce we had left 
 Tor, we felt no fmall pleafure at the fight of 
 Jambo. 
 
 Such as meant to take Medina, on their v/ay 
 to Mecca, went on fhorc here. Three of our 
 party alfo landed, and took their fabres in their 
 
 liands^ 
 
33-2 KI^:EUHR's trav:els 
 
 hands, like the other paflengers. An inhabitant of 
 Jambo, fuppofingthem Turks, gave them the fa^ 
 iutation of peace, SalamAlicum, and entered fami- 
 liarly into converfation with them. But learn- v 
 ing that they were Franks, he became vexed at 
 having profaned his form of falntation, by ad- 
 dreffing it to ChriftianSj and paffionately railed 
 at the infolent audacity of thefe infidels, who, 
 dared to wear arms in Arabia. But the other 
 Arabs not feconding his complaint, my fellow- 
 travellers came on board, without meeting with, 
 any other unpleafant accident. 
 
 After flopping for one day in this harbour, we 
 proceeded upon our voyage, retiring by degrees, 
 from the coaft, near which many beds of coral; 
 rocks were fcatteredo We had an opportunity 
 of feeing the town of Maßura, which Hands at 
 the foot of a hill of the fame nam^e. We doubled 
 C2i^Q War dan ; and anchored near Rabogh, a per- 
 manent habitation of a body of Arabs, who live 
 there in tents. We purchased from them a, 
 plentiful ftock of provifions. 
 
 Pilgrims, in their iirft journey to Mecca, are 
 obliged to alTume the Ihhram immediately aftei: 
 palling Cape Wardan, if the ftate of their health 
 permit. This is a piece of linen, which is wrap- 
 ped round the loins. The reft of the body is 
 naked ; and in this ftate, they proceed through 
 the reft of the pilgrimage, till they have vifited 
 
 tlip 
 
I 
 
 IN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 the Kaaha. The only other garment they are 
 fufFered to wear, is a linen cloth upon the Ihoul* 
 ders, which hangs down in the fafhion of a fcarf^ 
 But many, under pretext of indifpofition, retain- 
 ed their ordinary drefs. Others, more devout, 
 afllimed the Ihhram, although they had been 
 formerly at Mecca ; fo that by the evening, we 
 faw moft of thofe MufTulmans drdGed in a garb 
 different from what they had worn in the morn- 
 ing. 
 
 It may feem flrange, that Mahomet ihoiild 
 have enjoined the obfervance offtripping, which 
 is fo injurious to the health of the pilgrims. But 
 this law was inftituted at a time, when his fol- 
 lowers were all Arabs, and there was little pro^- 
 bability, that his religion would be propagated 
 in more northern regions. His defign was to 
 make the pilgrims appear with due humility, 
 and in the common drefs of the Arabs, Thofe 
 linens are ftiil the only drefs worn by the inha- 
 bitants of this province. But the Turks , who 
 are accuftomed to wear warm clothes, and even 
 furred cloaks, find it extremely uncomfortable 
 to change thefe for the Ihhram. Superilitioii 
 maintains local cufloms and inftitutions, even af- 
 ter circumilances have fo changed, as to make 
 them counteradl the purpofes for which thej 
 %vere originally intended. The members of fe- 
 deral religious Orders retain^ in cold countries, 
 
 the 
 
nieSühr's travels 
 
 the common drefs of the warm countries in whicli 
 their Orders were inftituted. In a chilling cli<» 
 mate, we fee them repair, in the middle of win- 
 ter, to damp, icy churches, becaufe the primitive 
 Chriftians, in the mild climate of Afia, aflembled 
 through the whole year, in fuch buildings, which 
 were there agreeable by their coolnefs. 
 
 At length, %n the 29th of Odober, we arrived 
 m the harbour of Jidda. The fame reafon which 
 had induced us to enter thefhip before the other 
 paiTengers, difpofed us to remain in it till they 
 had all gone on iliore. Every one was eager to 
 get away with his goods aifoon as poffible, and 
 to conceal them as much as he could from the 
 officers of the cuiloms. They were particularly 
 at pains to conceal their ready money, which 
 pays two and a hdlfper ce?it, of duty. One of 
 the paiTengers failed in the attempt to fecrete his 
 money ; for his purfe burft as he entered the 
 boat, and his crowns fell into the fea. Thofe 
 who defraud the cuftoms, fufier no confifcation 
 of their goods upon detedlion ; they are only 
 laughed at. In feveral places in Turkey, thofe 
 deteded in thefe pradices are compelled to pay 
 the duties double, 
 
 All who had been this way in the former ^ 
 year, and were now returning from the city^ ' 
 complained bitterly of the harfhnefs with which 
 they had been treated by the cu^omhoufe offi- 
 cers,- 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc» 
 
 cers. We were therefore perplexed about our 
 ready money, not that we were unwilling to pay 
 the duties, but we were afraid of being plunder- 
 ed by the Arabs. As the Mahometans are un- 
 acquainted with the ufe of letters of exchange, 
 we had been obliged to carry with us in Vene- 
 tian fequins, the whole fum that we intended to 
 expend on. our journey. After various thoughts, 
 Vr-e refolved to put our money in the bottom of 
 our medicine-cheft, referving only two hundred 
 fequins, where we expedled the officers of the 
 cuftoms to fearch. Our ftratagem fucceeded ; 
 and no perfon offered to move our medicines. 
 
 The other three veffels which had fet out with 
 lis from Suez, did not reach Jidda till a conhder- 
 able time after our arrival. One of them, by 
 the ignorance of the failors, had been in great 
 danger in the courfe of the paffage. She was 
 even overturned in the road, the failors having^ 
 in order to gratify the impatience of the merch» 
 ants, in difcharging the cargoe, placed toa great 
 a weight of goods upon the ftem of the fhip. 
 She was again raifed upon her keel, but a great 
 part of the goods had fallen into the fea, and 
 were much damaged, a new indance this, of the 
 unikilfulnefs of the Turkifli feamen.. 
 
 Vol I. 
 
 Ff 
 
 Chap. 
 
KIEBUHr's TRAVELS' 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 Of Jidda and its Vicinity » 
 
 We entered this city under ftrong apprehen« 
 Hons of ill-treatment from its inhabitants, Re^ 
 colle6ling with what contempt Chriftians are re„ 
 garded at Cairo, and how our companions had 
 been infuited by the Arab at Jambo ; we fear- 
 ed, that we might experience ftill more of the 
 inhofpitable infolence of the Muffdlmans, as we 
 approached nearer to their holy cities. But we 
 found ourfelves agreeably difappointed. The 
 inhabitants of Jidda, who are much accuftomed 
 to Chfiftian merchants in the European drefs, 
 were not ftruck with any thing ftrange in our 
 appearance, and did not feem to take much no- 
 tice of us. We went freely to the coffee-houfes 
 and markets, without fuffering any infults. But 
 we underftood, that none except Muifulmans, 
 are permitted to pafs through the gate that opens 
 towards Mecca, or even to approach it ; and 
 kept therefore carefully at a diftance from that 
 gate, leaft we might be difcovered. 
 
 Our letters of recommendation were of great 
 ufe to ui. Mr Gc^hler had been perfonally ac- 
 quainted 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C, - 127 
 
 quairited with the Pacha of Jidda, at Conftanti- 
 nople, and had accordingly recommended us to 
 him. We had letters from two confiderable 
 merchants at Cairo, to two of the principal mer- 
 chants in Jidda. A poor Schech had given us 
 one to the Kiaja, the Pacha^s lieutenant : a re- 
 commendation from which we had not expected 
 much, but which was, neverthelefs, of more fer- 
 vice to us than all the reft. 
 
 That Schech was fecretary to one of the prin- 
 cipal members of the academy of Jamea-el-A- 
 ßfar, at Cairo. He had been born in European 
 Turkey, and having often heard of the fuperio- 
 rity of the European Chriftians in matters of fci- 
 ence, he came frequently to fee us, and was eag- 
 er to receive .information from us. He was a 
 truly worthy man, perfedly free from fuperfti- 
 tion, and a friend to the whole human race* 
 Mr Forfkal and I inftrudled him in the elements 
 of botany and aftronomy. He, for his part, was 
 very ufeful to us, exercifmg us in the Arabic 
 language, and explaining to us many things of 
 which we muft otherwife have remained igno- 
 rant. In his youth, he had given the Kiaja 
 fome leffons. He had written, without our 
 kno\^iedge, by the laft caravan, to prepolTefs his 
 old friend in our favour : and gave us, befides^ 
 this letter to him. - 
 
 Ff2 As 
 
228 niebuhr's tp.avels 
 
 As we had not time to deliver all our letters 
 with our owQ hands, we fent thofe to the two 
 merchants by our fervant, in hopes that they 
 might find us lodgings. But when they under- 
 ftood that we were fo many, they excufed them- 
 felves, alleging that it was not poffible to find a 
 houfe large enough. Had we been fewer, we 
 might have taken chambers in the public Kan. 
 Our Greek fervant, when we were thus at a iofs 
 for lodgings, applied to one of his countrymen, 
 who was goldfmith to the iheriffe of Mecca, and 
 in great credit with the principal men in the ci- 
 ty. This goldfmith informed him, that the Ki- 
 aja, having had previous intimation of our com- 
 ing, had given him orders to do us any fervice in 
 his power. He even offered us the ufe of his 
 own houfe for a night, and promifed us a whole 
 houfe to ourfelves, by next day. 
 
 Upon receiving this notice, we went inilantly 
 to deliver the Schech's letter to the Kiaja ; who 
 received us with great politenefs. We went af- 
 terwards frequently to fee him ; and in cur an- 
 fwers to his queflions concerning the cufioms 
 and manners of Europe, we communicated to 
 him and his friends, more juft and favourable i- 
 deas of the Europeans, than they fi^emed to have 
 before entertained. The Arabs confider us in 
 the fame light in which we regard the Chinefe» 
 They efteem themfelves the more enlightened 
 
 and 
 
IN ARAßiA, i^Co 
 
 229 
 
 and ingenious people ; and think tliey do us great 
 honour, when they rank us in the fecond place* 
 The Kiaja was fond of converling about aitrono- 
 my. Mr Forßial, who often viiited him, per- 
 fiiaded him to form a garden for plants near his 
 boufe, and to bring from the interior parts of 
 the country^ the fnrub vv^hich produces the balm 
 in Mecca. The Arabs looked upon this as a hap- 
 py thought ; and the more fo, becaufe the balm 
 is not to be obtained pure at Jidda, but is com- 
 monly corrupted with an intermixture of extra^ 
 neous fubilances, before it comes there. 
 
 After a few days, we delivered our letter of ^ 
 recommendation to the Facha. He had alfo 
 fome knowledge of aftronomy, and^ wiüied to 
 fee our inftruments. He thought them better 
 than thofe ufed in the Eaft, and fnewed them 
 to a Scbech, a learned Turk, whom he had with 
 him. The Pacha and the Schech fpoke no lan^ 
 guage but the Turkißi, to which 1 was a fcran- 
 ger. But we had enough of interpreters; andj» 
 among others, three French and Italian rene" 
 gadoes in the fervice of the Pacha. Yet they 
 knew not the terms of fcience, eith^^r in their 
 native language, or in the Turkiflil I could 
 not, of confequence, make rayfelf well under^ 
 flood by the Pacha ; and our converfttion upon 
 thefe fubjeds was not long nor profound. With 
 ^he Kiaja I was obliged to fpeak Arabic, which 
 
 I found 
 
NiEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 I found not a little difficult, being ftill ignorant 
 of the term s of fcience in that language. 
 
 On the I ft of November, after hiring a houfe, 
 we made our elFeds be carried to the cuftom- 
 houfe, bef<;jre we Ihould remove them into the 
 city, and had the pleafure ro obferve, that we 
 v/ere not the lefs kindly dealt with for being 
 known to the Kiaja. That officer fat, in an e- 
 leyated fit^aation, with his clerks around him, 
 and dire6l;ed the goods of the merchants to be 
 examined, piece by piece ; but he was fatisfied 
 with openiing our trunks, and did not make them 
 be emptied* The officers of the cuftoms exped 
 a gratuity when they behave with difcretion. 
 The SherrlfFe's goldfmith, who had taken upon 
 himfelf th:i diredion of our expence, gave them 
 a trifle in our name publicly. 
 
 The news of the arrival of a party of Euro- 
 peans, am.ong whom was an aftronomer, foon 
 reached Mecca. The brother of the reigning 
 Sherriffe w^as at that time advancing with an 
 army, to attack the city. With the Matiome- 
 tans, an aftronomer is always deemed an aftro- 
 loger. The SherifFe, therefore, direded his 
 Greek goMfmith to enquire of me, Whether he 
 fhould remain in pofTeffion of the fovereign 
 power, or be compelled to give place to his 
 brother ? I excufed myfelf from returning an 
 anfwer, m being ignorant of future events, and 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 and as cultivating aftronomv only to improve 
 the art of navigation. But Mr Von Haven re- 
 plied, that, of the two brothers, he who bore the 
 greateft refemblance to Haflan, the founder of 
 the family, Ihould remain victorious. This re- 
 fpcnfe turned out the more happi ly, that the 
 reigning Sherifie was enabled to maintain him- 
 felf upon the throne. ||^ 
 
 A nobleman in Jidda ailvea me to difcover to 
 •him the thief who had ftolen two hundred fe- 
 quins which he had loft. I alleged the fame 
 excufe as in the formier cafe. then applied 
 
 to a famous Schech, who was a better ajh olo- 
 ger than 1. The Schech gathered all his fer- 
 vants, ranged them in a line, and, after a long 
 prayer, made each of them take into his mouth 
 a bit of folded paper, telling them, that 
 they who were innocent might fwallow it with 
 fafety, but that the guilty perfon would be 
 choaked by it. They all fwallowed the paper, 
 fave one, who, being thus furprifed, and em- 
 barrafled, confefled the theft, and made refti- 
 tiition. 
 
 He is faid to have been Sultan £/ Guri, fove- 
 reign of Egypt, who, in the year 15 14, fur- 
 rounded Jidda with walls, to protect it from 
 the Portuguefe, then beginning to become for- 
 midable on the Red Sea. Thofe walls are ftili 
 Handing, but are now^ fo ruinous, that a perfon 
 
 may 
 
^- 232 niebuhr's travels 
 
 may, in many places, enter over them on horfe- 
 back. The bridge is in an equally defencelefs 
 date ; a ruinous battery, with one difmounted 
 ^ cannon, is all that remains to ihelter it. Some 
 cannons befor^ the palace of the Pacha, are 
 good for nothing but to return the falute of 
 ihips which enter the harbour. This palaqe 
 IS but an indiife|ppt building, like the houfes 
 of the other Pachas through the Ottoman em- 
 pire. In the.^.city, however, are feveral fine 
 buildings of coral flone. But the other houfes 
 are flight wooden fabrics, like the ordinary 
 dwellmgs of the Arabs through the country. 
 
 The city is entirely deftitute of water. The 
 inhabitants have none to drink, but what is col- 
 ledled by the Arabs, in refervoirs among the 
 hills, and brought by them from thence upon 
 camels. 
 
 People of diftindion in this place drefs near- 
 ly as the Turks in Cairo. But, the poorer fort 
 wear only a fhirt Viäthout breeches. The Be- 
 douins in the neighbourhood wear only the 
 Ihhram upon their loins. Ti^e drefs of the wo- 
 men among the lower ranks is the feme which 
 is worn by the Arabian females in general ; 
 large drawers, a flowing Ihirt, and a veil. Ma- 
 ny of the poorer people are employed in fifhing, 
 by which they feera to earn but a fcanty iiv- 
 
 The 
 
In ARABIA, iSc, 233 
 
 The country lying immediately around this 
 city, is fandy and barren. If we may believe 
 tradition, thefe regions have undergone no change 
 fince the creation ; for the tomb of Eve is ftill 
 fhewn in a fpot at no great diftance from the 
 fea. But, 1 have remarked fome fure indica- 
 tions of the fea having receded from the furface 
 of the land here as well as in other places. At 
 a certain diftance from the fhore, are hills en- 
 tirely compofed of coral-rock, and having a per- 
 fect refemblance to the banks of coral lying a- 
 long the coaft. 
 
 As I was walking by the harbour, 1 had an 
 opportunity of obferving a lingular pradlice, 
 which the Arabs ufe for taking up wild ducks. 
 The perfon, who is in fearch of the game, ftrips^ 
 puts fea-weeds upon his head, and approaches 
 the bird. The duck, not being alarmed at the 
 light of the fea-weeds, ftirs not till the Arab 
 feizes it by the feet. 
 
 Pococke, and fome other travellers, were not 
 credited, when they fpoke of this mode of tak- 
 ing wild-fowls as pradlifed in China. But no 
 Fa 61 can be more certain (aa). 
 
 Vol. L 
 
 Chap. 
 
^34 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 ^he Government and Trade of Jidda» 
 
 Jidda has been always a part of the dominions 
 of the Sherriffe of Mecca. The Turkifh Suhan 
 fends^ indeed, a Pacha to this city ; but he is not 
 abfoliite fovereign of it. The fupreme authority 
 is iliared between the SherrifFe and the Turkifli 
 governor. The latter is changed every year ; 
 and accordingly refufes fometimes to obey the 
 Pacha ; as did the prefent Kiaja, in one inftance^ 
 dilring our flay at Jidda. 
 
 The Sherriffe keeps an officer, who is called 
 his Yiiier, to reprefent him in this city ; and on 
 this Vifier, folely, do all ftich of the inhabi- 
 tants of Jidda, as are the SheriiFe's fubjeds, 
 depend. This officer is always chofen out 
 of the family of the SherrifFe, from among thofe 
 who afpire to the fovereign power. A defcend- 
 ent of a noble Arab family would not deign to 
 compear before a judge of a meaner birth. 
 
 The revenue arifing from the cuftoms isiliar^ 
 ed between the Sultan and the SherrifFe ; upon 
 which account the Kiaja and the Vifier always 
 attend together, when goods are examined. 
 
 The 
 
IN ARABIxV, <^C, 
 
 The dues of cuftom are fixed at 10 per cent, up-^ 
 on the value of the goods, eftimated arbitrarily 
 by the cuftom-houfe officers ; fo that they may 
 be confidered as equal, in reality, to 12 or 15 
 per cent. The Engliih, however, are particular- 
 ly favoured, even more than the fubjedls of the 
 Sultan : They pay only 8 per cent, and are fuf- 
 fered to difcharge this in goods ; whereas all 0- 
 thers muft produce money. 
 
 Although the trade of Jidda is fo coniiderable, 
 yet this city is no more than a mart between E- 
 gypt and India. The Ihips from Suez feldom pro- 
 ceed farther than this port; and thofe from India 
 are not fufFered to advance to Suez. The m af- 
 ter of a veffel from Surat, being driven one year 
 too far north to enter the harbour of Jidda, pro- 
 ceeded to Su,ez, and there difcharged his cargo. 
 But he was put into prifon, next year, at Jidda, 
 and obliged to pay the full dues that would 
 have been charged at Jidda, upon the goods 
 which he had difpofed of at Suez. 
 
 Were it not for this advantage, the trade of 
 Suez would be very triöing. The circumjacent 
 country affords nothing but Tl^//' almonds for an 
 objeds of traffic ; of thefe, indeed, the Engliüi 
 carry five hundred thoufand weight a-year to 
 India. Balm of" Mecca is alfo brought hither 
 from the neighbourhood of Medina, as an article 
 for exportation. 
 
 ■ ■ Th3 
 
236 
 
 NIEBüHR's TRAVELS 
 
 The imports are greater, becaufc both Mecca 
 and Medina are to be fapplied from this mar-, 
 ket. Large quantities of corn, rice, lentiles, fu-^ 
 gar, oil, &c. are imported fr©m Egypt, without 
 which this part of Arabia could not poffibly be 
 inhabited. All gooda from Europe come alfo 
 by the way of Egypt ; and, on the other hand, 
 thofe which are brought hithei: from India pafs 
 generally into Egypt. 
 
 Maiilet, w^ho reßded long in Cairo, imagined 
 that it might be of advantage to the nations of 
 Europe, to condud their trade to India by the 
 way of the Reü Sea. But it is doubtful, whe- 
 ther (hips would be allowed to pafs the harbour 
 of Jidda. Tney would undoubtedly meet with 
 much fraud and chicanery at Suez ; for the 
 proprietors of the veffels which trade at prefent 
 between the two harbours, are the moll refpec- 
 table merchants in Cairo. Befidcs, the exor- 
 bitant duties, which would be exad:ed, would 
 greatly curtail their profits. But European mer- 
 chants would hardly be hindered to fettle at 
 Jidda : One Englifliman has lived feveral years 
 here. 
 
 A circumftance, which muft always have an 
 unfavourable influence upon the flate of this 
 trade, is, the low Hate of the finances of the 
 Government which prefides here. Continually 
 in want of mojiev, they often require the pier- 
 
 chanX^ 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc. 23^7 
 
 jchants to advance fome part of the duties for 
 the next year, and promife to difcount what is 
 thus advanced, when it falls due. But thefe 
 advances, when once obtained, are left to ac- 
 cumulate, year after year, and will never be 
 repaid. The Englilh have not yet fubmitted 
 to thefe impolitions : but their firm refufal con- 
 tinually embroils them with the officers of {^o- 
 vernment. 
 
 No money is coined in. this province ; the 
 fpecie current here is all foreign, and the fame 
 as at Conftantinople and Cairo. Eut the larger 
 coins pafs at a higher rate here than in Cairo, 
 becaufe fmall money is more plentiful here^ than 
 even where it is coined. Pilgrims bring this a- 
 bundance of fmall money into the country, to 
 defray their travelling expences, and the alms 
 which they are obliged to beflow on their jour- 
 ney, and in the Holy City. That fmall money 
 is never carried out of the country ; and the 
 province is, by confequenA^e, abfolutely overflow- 
 ed with it. 
 
 I have had occaüon to fpeak of the trading 
 janilfaries. Thofe are properly merchants, who 
 have inroiled themfelves among the janifiaries, 
 that they m.ight be proteded by the privileges 
 of that body, from the impofitions to which they 
 would otherwife be expofed in conducing their 
 trufiic y but they perform no military duty, and 
 
 r^ceiv^ 
 
238 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 receive no pay. Such a janißary is independent 
 of the civil magiftrate : and amenable to no jud- 
 ges, but , the officers of the military body to which 
 he belongs. He enjoys alfo an exemption from 
 the payment of cuftom-houfe dues, for a trunk 
 and two baikets, which are allowed them for the 
 conveyance of their baggage and provifions. ^ 
 But, inftead of baggage or provifions, the trading 
 janiffaries take care to fill the trunk and bafket^ 
 with their moll precious goods. I have feen, 
 likewife, fome Ihip- captains and pilots who had 
 inrolled themfelves among the janilTaries, folely 
 to acquire importance^ and to fecure the protec- 
 tion of this powerful body, who are always ready 
 to fupport and defend a brother janifl^ary ; for 
 fuch janiflaries did not lhare the privileges of 
 their Turkiih brethren. 
 
 While we were in Jidda, the janiffary traders* 
 refenting the ftriclnefs with which their goods 
 were infpe6i:ed, threatened to defend themfelves 
 with the help of their fellows, from what they 
 called injuftice. The Kiaja and Vizier ordered 
 llrong detachments from the troops of the Pacha 
 and the Sultan, to attend them to the cuftom- 
 houfe ; and the mutineers were thus reprefted. 
 But after our departure, the janiffaries affembled 
 in arms : upon which the Pacha direded fome 
 cannons to be pointed againft the houfe in which 
 
 the 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 239 
 
 Ae ringleaders were affembled, and all became 
 quiet (bb). 
 
 Chap VI. 
 Voyage from Jidda to JLohem. 
 
 Our orders were, to proceed as directly as pol- 
 fible to Temen; and nothing detained us at Jidda, 
 but the prevalence of the north wind, which 
 kept back the arrival of the fliips going thither 
 for coffee ; for there were none elfe with which 
 we could continue our voyage to the fouth of 
 the Arabic gulph. At laft, fome of thofe veifels 
 arrived in the beginning of December ; and we 
 Vv^ere advifed to take our palTage in a fliip from 
 Mafiate, bound to Flodeida, for a cargoe of cof- 
 fee. 
 
 We went in halle to fee this vefTel, but were 
 not a little furprifed to find it more like a hogf- 
 head than a fhip. It was only feven fathoms 
 Jong, by three in breadth. It had no deck ; its 
 planks were extremely thin, and feemed to be 
 only nailed together, but not pitched. The 
 Captain wore nothing but a linen cloth upon his 
 loins; and his failors, who were nine in num- 
 ber, and all black Haves from Africa or Malabar^ 
 had nothing to cover their nakednefs^ but about 
 
Kiebuhr's travel^ 
 
 an hand-breadth of linen, bound upon then' haun» 
 ches with a cord. Our friends perfuaded us not 
 to ftickle at appearances, as the Arabs of Maf- 
 kate are eileemed good failors, and manage their 
 fails like European mariners ; whereas the fub- 
 jeds of the Imam are very unikilful navigators^ 
 and ufe mats for fails, which it is very difficult 
 to manage. We took their advice, and agreed 
 with the mailer, for our pallage to Hodeida. 
 . Our hril intention had been, to go ftraight by 
 fea to Mokha, as w^e hoped that fome Englilh 
 veflels might be found there. But we were toldj 
 that this palTage would be extremely tedious, 
 and that we might travel more agreeably by 
 land, and could meet with no moieftation in 
 the dominions of the Imam. However, the dan- 
 ger of living among Arabs, w^hom we reprefent- 
 d to ourfelves fuch as thofe whom we had feen 
 in the defart, ilill dwelt upon our imagination. 
 But our friends again a{rured us, that our fears 
 were groundlefs ; and we accordingly determin- 
 ed to land at Loheia, or rather at Hodeida, as we 
 ihould thus begin the fooner to traverfe . Arabia 
 the happy. The Kiaja gave us letters to the 
 Dolors, or governors of Loheia and Hodeida : 
 and the merchants to whom we had been recom- 
 mended, gave us others to fome of the principal 
 merchants in thofe two cities. The Pacha gave 
 
 orders^ 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 241 
 
 orders, tliat our baggage fhould pafs unexamin- 
 ed. 
 
 We had freighted the veiTel for ourfelve^ a- 
 lone ; hut yet we found it laden with goods. 
 The mafler excufed this by telling us, that thefe 
 were abfolutely necelTary for ballaft. A fmall 
 fpace was however allotted to each of us, which 
 we found fpread with a ftraw mat, intended e- 
 qually for a feat and a bed upon which we might 
 fleep if we could. Bales of goods occupied eve- 
 ry place elfe, except one fmall corner, which 
 ferved as a kitchen. It w^as impoffible therefore, 
 to walk or take the ieaft exercife. Mr Cramer 
 loft his watch the firft night between the boards 
 and a mat of branches of trees, which was fpread 
 all over the bottom of the velTel, to keep the 
 goods dry. It was found undamaged, when we 
 reached Loheia ; a circumilance which proves 
 that the timber of thofe velTels is more clofely 
 joined than one vv^ould at firft imagine. 
 
 We fet out from Jidda on the 13th of Decem- 
 ber, and our Captain followed the pradice of 
 cafting anchor every night ; although the banks 
 of coral are lefs numerous in the fouthern, than 
 in the northern part of the Arabic gulph. If 
 w^e had feen few towns or villages.between Suez 
 and Jidda, we faw not more between Jidda a,nd 
 Loheia. 
 
 Vol, L H h Our 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 Our voyage was uniformly fafe and pleafant. 
 We obferved fome flying fiflies^ which the Arabs 
 cali fea locuils. On the fixth day of our voyagCj, 
 we overtook a veflel belonging to Hodeida, which 
 had failed from Jidda three days before us. 
 This was an inflance of the flow-failing of the 
 fhips of Temen^ whofe mat-fails receive fo little 
 wind, that often the Arabs can fcarce get out of 
 the harbour. We faw alfo feveral fmall veflels, 
 which proceeded in fuch a manner, as to ihew 
 l^hemfelves to be managed by men of much more 
 fpirit than the Turkifli failors. ' 
 
 After feven days failing, we anchored near 
 Ghunfude, a confiderable city, but confifl:ing 
 merely of huts. It belongs to the Sherriffe of 
 Blecca, and is governed by one of his officers^ 
 who lives in a fmall ifle, at fome diftance from 
 the city. He is obliged to pafs daily between 
 the ifle and the town, in order to attend the re- 
 ceipt of the cufloms. All the fhips which are 
 employed in carrying coffee to Jidda, are oblig- 
 ed to anchor here, and pay a duty to the Sher- 
 riffe. They are under no neceflity of fl:opping 
 on their return ; if the crew, however^ wifli to 
 go on fhore, they may obtain a general permif- 
 lion for the payment of two crowns. 
 
 Next day after our departure from Ghunfude, 
 where we fliayed only one day, we pafled within 
 fi^ht of Hali, where the Sherriffe of Mecca keeps 
 
lir ARABIA, Uc. 
 
 H3 
 
 a garrifon. This city is upon the confines of his 
 dominions, and upon the border of the province 
 of Hedjas. The neighbouring Arabs belong to 
 ^ Yemen. 
 
 As our captain needed provifiotis, we had an 
 early opportunity of forming acquaintance with 
 thofe independent Arabs who live between the 
 dominions of the two SherrifFes of Mecca and 
 hu-Arifch, They are governed by Schiechs of 
 their own, and profefs a religion which feems to 
 have been that of their anceftors before Mahomet 
 arofe. We had heard it mentioned, that thofe 
 people have a ftrong inclination to appropriate 
 the clothes of travellers: in imitation of our fliip» 
 captain, therefore, we drefTed ourfelves modeftly 
 and fimply, in indifferent fhirts, and in this guifc 
 went on fhore unarmed, Some men imm^ediate- 
 ly advanced to meet us ; inilead of a turban? 
 they wore only a firing upon the head, to con- 
 fine the hair ; and a cloth upon the loins v/as 
 all the reft of their drefs. Conceiving our beha- 
 viour to be expreffive of fufpicion and diftriift* 
 they threw down their lances, and told us that 
 Vve had nothing to fear. 
 
 As we wifhed to purchafe provifions, they led 
 us to their tents. As we approached, two 
 women came out to meet us, and refpe£lfully 
 kiffed the arms of the Schiechs, who Idffed 
 their heads in return. They wore no veils 
 H h 3 upon 
 
244 niebuhr's travels 
 
 upon their faces ; their eyes were blackened 
 with lead ore ; and they had black fpots impref- 
 fed, as ornaments upon ihtir bro-w, cheeks, and 
 chin. Thofe beauties, whofe complexion was a 
 yellowiih brown, and who were ahiioft naked, 
 immediately alked us for Kochhel, to blacken 
 their eyes, and for Elheune, to dye their nails yel- 
 low. We were not a little mortified, that we 
 had forgotten to provide oürfelves in thofe arti- 
 cles, by which we might have been enabled to 
 gratify the eagernefs of thofe fair ones for drefs, 
 and to fupply them with powerful aids to their 
 charms. They regaled us with milk and butter, 
 which had been kept in goat Ikins, and gave us 
 bad bread to eat with thefe dainties. They 
 were not difpleafed at our paying them before- 
 hand. Although wanderers in the defart, they 
 feemed to us more civilized than molt of the o^ 
 ther Bedouin tribes. 
 
 Next day, after this interview, we halted near 
 a mountain called Konemhel^ fituate in the mid- 
 dle of the fea, and faid by the Arabs to have 
 been originally a volcano. It may polfibly be 
 the remains of that burning iiland which is plac- 
 ed by Arrian and Ptolemy in thefe latitudes. 
 We faw, likewife, not far off, the city of Gefan, 
 fituate japon a tongue of land, on the coaft ; but 
 we did not venture to approach it ; for the Sher- 
 
 riffe 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 M5 
 
 riffe to whom it belongs bears the chatader of 
 being inhofpitable to ftrangers. 
 
 On the 29th of December, we arrived in the 
 harbour of Loheia, and caft anchor within a 
 league of the town. 
 
 SECTION 
 
246 
 
 Ki£BUHR*S TRAVELS 
 
 SECTION VIIL 
 
 ROUTE FROM LOHEIA TO BEIT EL FAKIH„ 
 
 Chap. I« 
 
 Of ourßay at Lo/ma, ^ 
 
 Between Suez and Loheia, we had heard much 
 of the independent Schiechs, who are unwil- 
 ling to fufFer ftraihgers to enter their dominions. 
 From this circumftanee, we could not readily 
 credit what was told us concerning the eafe and 
 fecurity with which we might travel through 
 the territories of the Imam of Sana. It was for 
 this reafon, that we had wiflied to go ftraight by 
 fea to Mokha ; although we bad been often e- 
 nough oppofed by contrary winds, to make us 
 weary of this mode of travelling. Two mer- 
 chants of Mokha, who had fet out with us, deter„ 
 mined, hov^ever, to continue their journey by 
 land. We thought it might be proper to accom- 
 pany 
 
IN ARABIA, b^". 
 
 pany them into the city, where we might learn 
 from the governor, whether we could be fafe 
 to travel by land between Loheia and Mokha, 
 
 Dola, or Emir, is the title which the Arabs 
 ^ive to the governors of cities. He of Loheia 
 was an Emir, and his name was Farhan, He 
 was a native of Africa, and entirely black ; but 
 had been brought into Arabia in his youth, and 
 fold to a man of rank, who was lince dead, after 
 having occupied one of the firft offices in the fervice 
 of the Imam. He had given young Farhan a good 
 education, and had obtained for him afmall of- 
 fice, in which he gave fo much fatisfadlion, that 
 his merit foon raifed him to be Dola of a confi- 
 derable city. We found him to poiWs the dig- 
 nified politenefs of a nobleman, the fliridefi: in- 
 tegrity, and the candid benevolence of a truq 
 friend to mankind. 
 
 We explained to him our fituation ; and told 
 him that v/e were Europeans, and wiflied to 
 go by Hodeida to Mokha, where we hoped to 
 find fome Englifli fhips, in whic h we might 
 take our paiTage to India ; but, being Grangers 
 to the country through which we were to tra- 
 vel, had brought a letter to him from the Kiaja 
 of Jidda, and another from one of the princi- 
 pal merchants in Jidda to Machfen-el-Makka- 
 wifch, the chief merchant in Loheia. The E- 
 nur had known a good many Europeans, or 
 
 Eranks 
 
NiEBUHR's TRAVELS 
 
 Franks, at Mokha, but had never before feea 
 any arrayed in the garb of the Eaft, which is, 
 however, univerfally worn by the Oriental Chri- 
 llians. We knew, that the Muffulmans regard 
 Chriftians with greater efteem than thofe of any 
 other religious community except their own. 
 When we were aiked, therefore, by Emir Far- 
 ban, whether we were Franks or Nazarites, we 
 replied that we were both ; fearing that he 
 might perhaps take the Europeans for Pagans^ 
 Mdschfen, the merchant, was then fick ; but the 
 Emir fent for his clerk, to receive the letter in 
 our hands, addrelTed to him. 
 
 Hitherto, this governor had known no Euro« 
 peans but India merchants. He was furprifed, 
 when he under ftood, from the letters, that one 
 of us was a phyfician ; another in fearch of 
 plants ; and a third, an obferver of ftars. Struck 
 with this iingularity, and fuppoßng that we 
 might notbe in very great hafte, he propofedtcus 
 to flay fome time at Loheia, offering to fend us 
 to Mokha upon his own camels. Mcefchen, the 
 merchant, who needed a phyfician, earneftly in« 
 vited us, at the fame time, to take up our lod- 
 gings in one of his houfes. 
 
 We were delighted thus to find the Arabs 
 more civilized the farther v^^'e proceeded from 
 Egypt, and to meet with fo polite a reception 
 among the people who were the obje6ls of our 
 
 enquiries. 
 
I N ARABIA,, is'c. 
 
 enquiries. We were ftill more delighted to find 
 that people themfelves contributing to afford us 
 opportunities of tranfyerfing their country unfuf- 
 peded. To hide our joy at the propofal, we ex- 
 prelTed our fears of danger in travelling fo near the 
 feat of the war between the the Schiech of Mek- 
 krami and the Sherriffe oi Abu Arifch. But the 
 £mir alFured us, that we lliould be fafeJiDm 
 all danger at Loheia, and might travel in full 
 fecurity through the whole territories of his maf- 
 ter the Imam.. 
 
 We no longer heütated to quit the vefleL 
 The captain, not having taken the precaution 
 to exad: payment for our pafiage, when we came- 
 firfl on board, now applied to the governor, beg- 
 ging him to compel us to pay in full for our paU 
 fage to Hodeida. The Emir generoufly replied, 
 that he would pay his demand from his own 
 purfe, ifwerefufed; and the merchant Mcsch- 
 fen made the. fame, promife. We did not put 
 the generofity of our Arabian friends to . the 
 trial ; but felt ourfelves deeply indebted, to them 
 for their offers and fervices,. 
 
 When we fpoke of the conveyance of our bag- 
 gage to the fliore, . the Emir fent his own boat 
 for it ; and, to fpare us all trouble, direded the 
 merchant's clerk to fatisfy the officers of the 
 cuiloms. In the evenmi^', he fent us an excel- 
 lent fheep, as a prefent of welcome, and accom- 
 
 VoL. I. I i panied 
 
KIEBUHR^'S TRAVSia 
 
 panied it with a letter, in whicli he called ms 
 his giiefts, and affured ua of his friendfliip. His 
 boat having only mat-fails, moved fo fiowly, that 
 we could not bring all our efFecls on fhore in 
 one day, which gave us fome concern, left we 
 might lofe what remained behind, or be robbed 
 of what lay on the ihore. The Emir, under- 
 ftanding that we were uneafy upon this head^ 
 immediately fent fome foldiers to guard our bagn 
 gage. 
 
 V/e paifed the night on the fliore, whithei: 
 our good friend Maechfen, who very naturally 
 fuppofed that our cooking utenfils rauft be yet in 
 confufion, fent us an excellent fupper. Nothing 
 was wanting but wine ; and our ftock of bad bran- 
 dy, which we had brought from Jidda, was by 
 this time finiftied. We might have^fupplied our-=. 
 felves with wine, and other liquors, from the 
 Jews of Sana, who manufadure large quanti- 
 ties of thofe articles : but we ihould have been, 
 obliged to carry tliem in copper veftels, which 
 would have rendered them noxious to the 
 health. They offered us a fort of bowza, which 
 we found naufeous. We were therefore obliged 
 to content ourfelves with the profpecl of living 
 without ftrong liquors of any kind for fome 
 months. 
 
 Our trunks were carried next day to the cuA 
 tom-houfe : they were opened ; and we v»7ere 
 
¥ik Arabia, &Co i^t 
 
 afraid that Ihey might be ftriclly examinedo 
 But the cuftom-houfe officers behaved with great 
 civility. We had remarked, that the Emir's at- 
 tention was fixed upon our inftruments folely, and 
 that he feemed anxious tö underftand the ufes 
 of them : We therefore explained to him what- 
 ever he wifhed to know« Mr For&al üiewed 
 him fome fmall objedls through a microfcope ; 
 and he was moil agreeably furprifed to fee mi- 
 nute infed:s magnified to fo large a iize. 
 
 The houfe ai!igne4 us for a lodging was 
 built in the Eafteni famion^ with a fquare court 
 in the middle. There was not one well-fur- 
 nifhed room in it ; yet it conßfted of feverai 
 diilinä: apartments, into which the entrance was 
 through an open gallery, which extended all 
 ^ around it. This lodging was far from being ele- 
 gant, in comparifon with the fplendid inns in 
 Europe ; but in Arabia, it was both elegant and 
 commodious. At firft, our court v/as conftant- 
 ty filled with crowds of people, curious to fee 
 us. This we found troublefome ; and therefore 
 hired: a portei", who fuffered none to enter, but 
 perfons who had bufinefs to tranfad with u.s» 
 
 I 12 
 
 Ghap» 
 
iiiE buhr's travels 
 
 Chap. It 
 
 Of the City of Loheia, 
 
 The city of Loheia has flood only for theifc 
 three centuries. Its founder and patron was a 
 Mahometan faint, called Schiech Schlei, who 
 feuilt a hut on the fliore where Loheia now 
 Hands, and fpent there the reft of his days as a 
 hermit. After his deaths a Kabbet, or houfe of 
 prayer, was raifed over his tomb ; and it was 
 afterwards by degrees embelliihed and endowed., 
 Some devout perfons, imagining that it would 
 be a great happinefs to them to live near the re- 
 mains of fo holy a perfon, built huts for them- 
 felves about his tomb. Nearly at the fame time, 
 the harbour of Marabea, a neighbouring city* 
 in which a governor refidcd, was fdled up. The 
 inhabitants, upon this, deferted their city, and 
 fettled at Loheia, whither the feat of Govern- 
 ment was alfo transferred. 
 
 I remarked, upon this occafion, that the Sun- 
 nites^ the prevalent fed in this province, al- 
 though forbidden by the Koran to pay any ads 
 of worfhip to created beings, yet regard their 
 
 faints 
 
faints with very lingular veneration. In this 
 part of Arabia, the pofterity of the faints are 
 ■ treated with as much refped as is fhewn to the 
 pofterity of Mahomet at Mecca. Every per- 
 fon w^ho can number a reputed faint among his 
 anceftors, is dignified with the title of Schiech, 
 and coniidered as an ecclefiaftic by birth. Fa- 
 milies thus find it their intereft to eftabiifh,^ by 
 every poffible means, the fandlity of the perfon 
 to whom they owe their origin, and to main- 
 tain the authenticity of the miracles afcribed to 
 him. In this manner is fuperftition daily ex- 
 tending its influence among the Mahometans, 
 and feigned miracles are conilantly multiplying. 
 The territory of Loheia is arid and barren. 
 The harbour is fo indifferent, that even the 
 fmalleft veffels are obliged to anchor at a great 
 diftance from the city ; and, when the tide is 
 at ebb, laden boats cannot approach near it. 
 Notwithftanding this difadvantage, a coniidera« 
 ble trade in coffee is carried on from Loheia ; 
 the coffee is brought from the neighbouring hills, 
 and expofed in one large heap for fale. This 
 coffee is not reputed to be fo good as that which 
 comes from Beit el Fakih, and is fliipped at Mok» 
 ha and Hodeida. But coffee is to be purchafed 
 here upon more reafonable terms ; and the car- 
 riage to Jidda cofts lefs. On this account, fe- 
 veral merchants from Cairo live at Loheia, and 
 
 others 
 
klEBÖHU^S XkAtEIS' 
 
 Others come annually hitherto make purcliafes of 
 coffee. In this city, are alfo forty poor Banians^^ 
 employed in different trades. 
 
 Loheia, although without walls, is not entlre« 
 ly defencelefs. Twelve towers, guarded by foi- 
 diers, Hand at equal diftances round it. Thefe 
 towers refemble thofe in fome of the imperial ci- 
 tdesof Germany ; the height of its gates renders 
 it neceffary to climb up to them upon ladders-. 
 In Turkey, and even in Europe, it would have 
 "been dangerous to approach near fuch fortifica- 
 tions^ in order to examine them. But the Arab 
 guards fat fmoking their pipes, and drinking- 
 Kijcher\ and gave me no interruption in my walks 
 ^bout them. Some of the officers even invited 
 me to lit dov/n and partake of their refrefhmentSi 
 They put many queflions to me concerning the 
 military (kill of the Europeans^ and feemed to 
 be furprifed at what I told them. I fhewed them 
 mr invention for vv^iting without ink, and in 
 their prefence^ drew with a pencil, the lines and 
 angles neceffary for laying down the plan of the 
 -city, while they had no fufpicion of my purpofe^ 
 but called on their comrades from the neighbour- 
 ing towers to fee my exhibitione 
 
 Only one of thofe towers, and that newly 
 built by Emir Farhan, is fuch as to admit of be-> 
 ing defended by cannons. The reff are fo ill 
 built, that the Arabs of Hajchld, fome time fmce, 
 
 mada 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 made tlieir way through them, and "Bre to 
 the city. The inhabitants are feolible af the 
 weaknefs qf their fortifications. After our d€par-, 
 ture, upon forne hundreds of thofe Arabs advanc- 
 ing through the province, towards the fhore^ 
 many of the inhabitants left Loheia, and tooi 
 refuge in a fmali ifland, carrying with them their 
 mofl- precious efFecla. But their terror proved 
 to have been premature ; for Emir Farhan no 
 fooner put his troops in motion, than thofe con- 
 temptible enemies retreated. 
 
 Several of the houfes in Lobeia are built of 
 ftone ; but the greater part are huts conilrudeii 
 in that fafaion which is common among the A- 
 rabs. The walls are of mud mixed with dung ; 
 and the roof is thatched with a fort of grafs w^iich 
 Is very common here. Around the walls, vv'ith- 
 in, are a range of beds made of ilraw, on which^ 
 notwithftanding their fimpucity, aperfon may ei- 
 ther fit or ly commodioufly enough. Such a houfe 
 is not large enough to be divided into feparate a- 
 partments ; it has f^ldom window^s, and its door 
 is only a ftraw mat. When an Arab has a fami- 
 ly and cattle, hebuilds^ for their accommodation^ 
 feveral fuch huts, and indoles the whole with a 
 Urong wooden fence. The population of the ci- 
 ties of Arabia, therefore^ cannot be proportionate 
 to their extent. 
 
 Lime. 
 
NIEEUHR's TRAVEJ.S 
 
 Lime is prepared in the neighbourhood of thi% 
 city, by the calcination of coral from the fea, ir^ 
 the open air, and without a furnace. In the lar-. 
 ger maifes, when they were broken, we often fawr 
 qblong fliells, with the animal flill alive withia 
 them. Thefe feas abound in beautiful fhella 
 and uncommon fifhes. 
 
 The water at Loheia is very bad, and is brought^ 
 from a diflance. The common people drink, 
 from a well^ which is a league from the city,. 
 The belt water, which, however, cannot bepraif-^ 
 ed as good, comes from two leagues and a half's 
 diftance. As wheeled carriages are unknown 
 here, this water is carried upon camels or afles ; 
 Mot in llvins, as in Egypt and Turkey, but in 
 earthen jars, a number of which hang upon eacL 
 iide of a camel. "Within two leagues of the ci=.. 
 ty is a fmall hill which affords confiderable quan« 
 titles of mineral fait.. 
 
 ■ Ghap. lit. 
 
 Of the Inhahitants of Lohiia^ 
 
 From all that we faw, and from all that befel; 
 us in this city, we judged the inhabitants to be- 
 curious, intelligent, and poliüied in their man- 
 ners* 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 ds7 
 
 Rers. All were eager to fee the Europeans, and 
 the wonders which they performed. After we 
 had employed a porter, thofe who had no other 
 pretext upon which they might obtain admiffion 
 to us, pretended to confult our phyßcian. One 
 alked him to feel his pulfe, and to tell him what 
 medicines or regimen he flood in need of; while 
 another enquired^ how it came that he could not 
 lleep ? 
 
 We had one opportunity of learning their i- 
 deas of the benefits to be derived from medicine» 
 Mr Cramer had given a fcribe a vomit, which o- 
 perated with extreme violence. The Arabs be- 
 ing llruck at its wonderful effedis, refolved 
 all to take the fame excellent remedy ; and 
 the reputation of our friend's ikill thus became 
 very high among them. The Emir Bahr, or in- 
 fpeclor of the port, fent oüe day for him ; and 
 as he did not go inimediately, the Emir foon af- 
 ter, fent a faddled horfe to our gate. Mr Cra- 
 mer, fuppoling that this horfe was intended to 
 bear him to the Emir, was going to mount him, 
 when he was told, that this was the patient he 
 was to cure. We luckily found out another 
 phyfician in our party. Our Swedifli fervant 
 had ferved among the hulTar troops in his native 
 country, and in that fervice, had learned feme 
 knowledge of the difeafes ofhorfes. He offer- 
 ed to cure the Emir's horfe, and fucceededo 
 
 Vol L K k The 
 
258 NIEBUItR's TRAVELS 
 
 The cure rendered him famous : and lie was of- 
 ten fent for afterwards, to human patients. The 
 Arabian phyficians extend their care equally to 
 men and4iorfes, and even to all other creatures. 
 
 When we fliewed our microfspopes to Emir 
 Farhan at the cuftomhoufe, the other Arabs were 
 all afloniftied as well as he, to fee the fize of the 
 infecls fo much magnified, A förvant, who faw 
 one of thofe .magnified infeds^ faid that they 
 were the growth of Europe, and that thofe of 
 rabia, were, in comparifon, exceedingly diminu- 
 tive. But, nothing furprifed the people of dif- 
 tinöion more, than when they faw through a 
 telefcope, a woman walking: they could not 
 conceive how it happened, that although fhc ap- 
 peared topfy-turvy, yet her under garments did 
 not turn about her ears, and exclaimed repeat- 
 edly, Allah Akbar, God is Great. 
 
 The children, obferving that we gathered in- 
 feds, brought great numbers, which they afked 
 us to buy. Thofe who v/ere grown up, fhewed 
 alfo many indications of a turn for induftry, which 
 if properly direded and encouraged, might ren- 
 der this people a commercial nation. 
 
 Two Arabs came, one day, to fee us eat. The 
 one was a young nobleman of Sana, who had re- 
 ceived a good education ; the other a man of fome 
 confequence, from the province of Hachtan^ 
 where itw ilrangers are ever feen, and the great-- 
 
 eft 
 
IN ARABIA, yc<, 
 
 259 
 
 eit limplicity of manners ftill prevails. When 
 we invited them to dine with us, the latter ear- 
 neftly replied, " God preferve me from eating 
 
 with inndels who believe not in God." 
 When I ailved him fome particulars concerning 
 his country, he replied, What is my country 
 
 to you ? Do you ^vant to conquer it?" He 
 was aftoniihed at every thing he faw, our fpoons, 
 our plates, our forks. He afked fome fihiple 
 queilions which excited laughter. He then went 
 out in a paffion, and his companion from Sana 
 had fome difficulty to perfuade him back. 
 When he came back, he faw whole fowls bef©re 
 us, which furprifed that fober Arab not a little, 
 as he imagined that we had eaten too much be- 
 fore. When, at laft, he faw Mr Von Haven a- 
 bout to carve one of thefe fowls, he ftepped for- 
 ward, and feized him by the arm, faying, with 
 a peevilh tone, What I wilt thou eat ftill ?" 
 He then went out in aa^age, and would not re- 
 turn. The young man from Sana apologized 
 for him, and begged us to excufe the fimplicity 
 of his countryman. 
 
 Mr Bdureniiend and I fometimes diverted our- 
 feives with playing on the violin, which led 
 fuch as happened to overhear us, to think us mu- 
 licians. A rich merchant fent for us to come 
 with our inilruments to his hoiife. We refufed, 
 becaufe the Arabs look with contempt upon mu- 
 K k 2 licians 
 
a6q -^ni:ebuhr's travels 
 
 ficians by profeffion. The merchant, being old, 
 and not able to walk fo far, mounted an 
 afs, and came with two fervants fupporting him, 
 to onr houfe, in order to gratify his curiofity, by 
 feeing and hearing us. He was very polite, and 
 alTured us, that he had no averfion to Chriftians ; 
 for, that a diverfity of religions was tolerated by 
 God, the Creator of all. After fome converfa- 
 tion, he expreifed a wifh to fee our violins, and 
 hear us play upon them. W e played fome fo- 
 lemn tunes, which are more to the tafte of the 
 Orientals, than our gayer mufici He feemed to 
 be pleafed, and offered each of us half a crown 
 ^t parting. The Arabs refufe no prefents, how- 
 ever fmall, and he was not a little furprifed when 
 we declined accepting his money ; efpecially as 
 he could not conceive what inducements any 
 perfon could have to learn mufic, if not to gain 
 by it. 
 
 This mercbant^vvas one of thofe few who wear 
 their beards dyed red ; a cuftom which feems to 
 be difappro\^ed by the more judicious Arabs. His 
 reafon to us was, that a red beard was handfom- 
 er than a white one ; but others told us^ that he 
 bad the weaknefs to think to conceal his age by 
 this filly difguife. He told us, that he was a- 
 bove fe^^enty years of age ; but his acquaintance 
 affirmed that he v/as not under ninety. We had 
 obferved of the MulTulmans in general, hov/ever, 
 
 that 
 
IN ARABIA, i$C, 
 
 261 
 
 that they feldom know their own age exaäily. 
 They reckon by the moft remarkable incidents in 
 their lives, and fay, I v/as a child when fuch an 
 event happened, orv/heniucha one was governor 
 of the province or city. 
 
 This merchant often afterwards invited us to 
 his houfe, and became at length fo familiar, as, 
 to entertain us with a detail of his adventures^ 
 If we might believe his ftory, he had enjoyed, 
 one after another, near an hundred young and 
 beautiful female flaves, all of whom he had fold, 
 given 'in marriage, or reilored to liberty, after 
 keeping them for fome time. He had ftill two 
 of thefe ; and he would die content, he faid, if 
 he could only forget the frailty of old age now 
 and then in their coanpany ° he offered to make 
 our phyßcian a coniiderable prefent, if he cpuld 
 reftore him fo much of the vigour of youth, as 
 might qualify him for this enjoyment. Another 
 m.erchant, who was fifty years of age, had pro- 
 mifed our phyücian an hundred crov^ns, if he 
 vv^ould give him fome remedies to fit him for the 
 enjoyment of fome young and beautiful female 
 flaves, whom he had in a houfe at Mecca. Buj^ 
 he was fo exhaufted by exceiTive indulgence, that 
 neither Mr Cramer's prefcription, not yet thofe 
 of the furgeons of fome Englifli Ihips, whom he 
 had before confulted, could reftore his genial 
 vigour. 
 
 The 
 
202 NIEBUHR's TRAVELS. 
 
 The women of Loheia wear large veils in the 
 fireet, which cover their countenances fo en- 
 tirely, that only one of their eyes can be difco- 
 vered, and that but imperfedly. Yet they make 
 no difficulty • of unveiling before ftrangers, as 
 they pafs, efpecially if they happen to think 
 tliemfelves pretty, and are fure that they are 
 not obferved by any of their countrymen. Mr 
 Eaurenfeind made a drawing of one of thofe fe- 
 males. Her brow, cheeks, and chin, were or» 
 nam^ented with black fpots, imprelTed into the 
 fliin, and fiie had alfo. her eyes artificially black- 
 ened. 
 
 ^ ^ ChafI¥. 
 
 Departure from Loheia* 
 
 After examining all that feemed worthy of. 
 fiotice in this city, and its neighbourhood^ we 
 became deiirous to proceed on our journey, and 
 to^ vifit the other parts of Yemen. It was requi- 
 iite, however, that v/e fhould affign a reafon to 
 our friend Farhan for our earneftnefs to depart* 
 By good fortune we learned that an Englifli vef- 
 fel was arrived at Mokha : but this velTel, the 
 Emir well knew, was not to fail from that har»~ 
 bour till June. We told him, therefore, that we 
 
 had 
 
IN ARABIA, ISc, 
 
 had fome immediate buiinefs to tranfaSl witli 
 our countrymen that were newly arrived ; upon, 
 which account we meant to fet out for Beit el 
 Fakih, and after refting there a fnort time, to con-> 
 tinue our journey to Moldia. He anfitered, that 
 we ,were furely dilTatisfied with our entertain- 
 ment at Loheia, otherwife we would not think 
 of quitting it fo foon ; and yet no governor could 
 take m.ore concern to ferve us than he. After 
 convincing him that we were adually under a 
 neceffity of fetting out for Mokha, we prepared 
 for our departure. 
 
 We had made a large coUeöion of natural cii- 
 riofities, the carriage of which by land v/ouM 
 have coft a great expence. We refolved, there- 
 fore, to fend by fea our trunks, and all the bag- 
 gage that we were not likely to need at Beit el 
 Fakih. The governor did us the kindnefs , of 
 fending, by the fame conveyance, a letter to the 
 Bola of Mokha, in which he ailced him to fufFer 
 our effedis to remaiu untouched at the cuftoro.- 
 houfe, till we ourfelves fiiould arrive. 
 
 When we fent to take leave of our friend Yjn'it 
 Farhan, he was indifpofed,. and we could not fee 
 him. But when he heard, that we had deter- 
 mined to fet out, he defired that we would come, 
 to him very late in the evening. We found 
 him in company with feveral Arabs ; before hiiu 
 lay an Englifli telefcope which I had lent him^ 
 
264 NiEBUHn's TRAVELS 
 
 a piece of filk flulF, and a parcel of crowns. Hö 
 would return me my telefcope, tut I infilled that 
 he fhould keep it ; which, after long refufal, he 
 atlaft, with vifible fatisfadion, confented to do. 
 The piece of iilk, with twenty crowns, were a 
 prefent intended for our phyfician ; and the reft 
 of the crow^ns he prelled us to accept, in order 
 to pay the hire for our alTes and camels. He and 
 his company teftified the ftrongeft furprize, when 
 they faw us refufe the money thus offered us ; 
 for inftead of refußng, Turkiüi travellers are 
 ready to demand fuch gratuities. 
 
 We were unwilling to be burthenfome to the 
 Arabs, and w^ould therefore accept of nothing 
 from them, without making a recompenfe. We 
 made the Emir a prefent of a watch, which, hav- 
 ing never before had one of his own, he knew 
 not how to managCi A merchant from Cairo^ 
 who was fettled at Loheia, promifed to wind it 
 up every day. We parted v»^ith fincere regret 
 from this good governor. 
 
 We hired camels for our baggage, and horfes 
 for ourfelves. In Arabia, Chriftians are not pro- 
 hibited the ufe of horfes ; but thefe can rarely be 
 had for hire. The ufual mode of travelling here, 
 £5 upon alTes ; w^hich in- this province are large, 
 ftrong, fpirited, and w^alk with, a pace, not the 
 tnoft pleafant to the rider. 
 
 Travelling 
 
IN ARABIA, '(Je, 
 
 Travelling being as little expofed to danger 
 in Yemen, as in any other country in the world, 
 we did not need to wait for the fetting out of a- 
 ny caravan. We therefore left Loheia alone, on 
 the 20th of February, fending the camels before, 
 and following them ourfelves, within a few hours? 
 upon our afles. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Route by Tehama, 
 
 The territory of Yemen is naturally divided 
 into two diilind provinces. That part which 
 borders on the Arabic gulpli is a fandy plain, 
 which, as it fpreads backward, rifes by a gradual 
 afcent, into hills, and terminates in a lofty range 
 of mountains. The plain is called Tehama, 
 We had to crofs it on our way to Beit el Fakih. 
 
 In the firft day of our journey, we travelled 
 through a parched and barren tracffc of country, a- 
 long an arm of the fea, which penetrates a conß- 
 derable way into the land. We reded in a coffee- 
 houfe fituate near a village. Mokeya is the name 
 given by the Arabs to fuch coffee- houfes \vhich 
 ftand in the open country, and are intended, like 
 our inns, for the accommodation of travellers. 
 
 Vol. L LI They 
 
a66 niebuhr's travels 
 
 They are mere huts, and are fcarcely furniflied 
 with a Serir, or long feat of ftraw ropes ; nor do 
 they afford any refrefhment but Kifcher, 2l hot 
 infufion of coffee-beans. This drink is ferved 
 out in coarfe earthen cups ; but perfons of dif- 
 tin6lion carry always porcelain cups in their bag- 
 gage. Frefh water is diilributed gratis. The 
 mafler of the coffee-houfe lives commonly in 
 fome neighbouring vijiage, whence he comes e- 
 very day to wait for pafTengers. 
 
 After a journey of fix German miles, we arriv- 
 ed by midnight, at a large city in which a Sub- 
 J)o/ß refides, with a few foldiers. Eniir Farhari 
 had given us a letter to the deputy-governor^ 
 wuth an order to the inhabitants to fupply us with 
 a fheep, v/hich, however, we did not chufe to 
 accept. But we came afterwards to underfland, 
 that the inhabitants had been obliged to pay a 
 fum of money equivalent to the value of the 
 fheep, which had been fhared between the Sub- 
 Dola and a fervant of the Emir's who accompa- 
 nied us, upon bufinefs of his own. In the other 
 villages through which we paffed, therefore, we 
 made no difficulty of accepting the fneep which 
 the Emir had ordered us. ^ 
 
 Through the whole country, we found water 
 fcarce and bad. But we met with many large 
 villages, lefs diflant from one another than we 
 fliould have expeded in fo barren a plain. Me" 
 
 negre 
 
IN ARABIA, y^"o 
 
 267 
 
 igre is one of thofe villages, of which we were 
 led to take particular notice, by finding in it the 
 firft Man/ale that we faw. A Manfale is a houfe 
 in which travellers are received and entertained 
 gratis, if they will be content with fuch treat- 
 ment as is ufual in the country j they are all lod- 
 ged in one common apartment, which is furnifli- 
 ed with a Serir, and are ferved with Kifcber^ 
 hot millet bread, camels milk and butter. When 
 the mafter of this Manfale underllood that fome 
 European guefts were arrived, he came to fee 
 whether his fervants treated us properly ; and 
 was going to kill a llieep for our entertainment, 
 if we had flayed longer. He caufed wheat bread 
 to be baked for us, which is in this province ve- 
 ry rare ; and made them bring cow-milk, when 
 he faw us naufeate the vifcidity of the camel's 
 milk. Our Arabian fervant let us know, that he 
 might be difobliged, if we fhould offer any com- 
 penfation for his kind hofpitality ; but the atten- 
 dant who ferved us with thofe things, took an op- 
 portunity, in a place where he could not be feeii 
 by his mafter, to alk a fmall gratuity. 
 
 At Dahhi, a large village, where is a mofque, 
 the tomb of a faint, and feveral houfes built of 
 ftone, we ftayed a whole day. Near this, we 
 faw a tannery, and a manufacture of earthen 
 ware, v^^hich is prepared in the open air, and 
 without a furnace. We faw, like wife; indigo 
 L 1 2 manufa<5lured 
 
268 
 
 i^iebüiir's travels 
 
 manu fadu red here ; it is fold at a cheap rate, 
 but is of a bad quality. Much of this dying fluflf 
 is ufed here ; for the women, among the com- 
 monalty, wear blue fhirts and drawers. 
 
 From this village, there is a direä: road lead- 
 ing to Beit el Fakih. But the trad of country 
 through which it paffes, is extremely arid, and 
 almoft uninhabited, and affords fcarcely any wa- 
 ter. We therefore preferred a longer road, near- 
 er the mountains, and found reafon to be pleafed 
 with our choice ; for we met with feveral fmall 
 woods, a number of villages fkirted with bufhcFj, 
 and many wells, which were from an hundred 
 and fixty, to an hundred and feventy feet deep . 
 but happily for both men and beafts, dug in flop- 
 ping ground ; for, as the water is to be raifed 
 by a cord dragging a leathern bucket, this is 
 more eaiily accompliflied in a going down hill 
 than if the ground were barely level, or an afcent 
 were to be climbed. 
 
 We paffed two large villages, under the jurif« 
 didion of the governor of Beit el Fakih ; but in 
 neither of thefe did any thing remarkable offer 
 itfelf to our obfervation. But in two places up- 
 on this journey, we faw fpots fcattered with 
 fmall villages, bearing all the fame name ; from 
 which we were led to think, that fomc fmall 
 detached tribes might have fettled, each in a par- 
 ticular diftrid of this province. We paffed alfo 
 
 tWG 
 
IN ARABIA, y^r. 269 
 
 two of thofe vallies fo common in Arabia, which, 
 when heavy rains fall, are filled with water, and 
 are then called wadi, or rivers, although perfed- 
 Ij dry at other times of the year. 
 
 After refting a night in one of thofe wretched 
 coffee- houfes, we arrived, in the morning of the 
 25th of February at Beit el Fakih, and had our 
 trunks fent immediately to the cuftom-houfe ; 
 but they were not infpecl:ed till noon, and then 
 in the prefence of the Dola. We^ in the mean 
 time, delivered letters ofj recommendation from 
 Maechfen of Loheia to Amhar Seif, one of the 
 principal merchants in Beit el Fakih. This 
 worthy man received us in a very obliging^man- 
 ner, hired us a houfe, faw our efFe6ls carried 
 thither, and iilvited us to dine with him, till 
 we could have matters put into order in our ows 
 habitation* 
 
 Cha?. VL 
 
 Of the C'lt^ of Belt el Fahh 
 
 This city is fituated on a plain, which, at 
 though far from being naturally fertile, is, how- 
 ever, carefully cultivated. The houfes join not 
 
 one 
 
27Ö NIEBtTHR'S TRAVELS 
 
 one to another, but are built feparate. Many 
 are of ftone; and the mode of building is every 
 day. improving : many, however, are ftill irl 
 that ftyie of architeäiure which I had occafion 
 to remark when fpeaking of Loheia. In the ci- 
 ty of Beit el Fakih is a citadel, which is thought 
 of the utmoll: importance in a country where 
 armies are without artillery. 
 
 The houfe v/hich we occupied was a build- 
 ing of flone ; but the proprietor had been dif- 
 lodged by a fpecies of ants, named, by the A- 
 rabs, Ard, Thefe ants, which are well known 
 to naturaliils, form covert ways, through which 
 they introduce themfelves into houfes, where 
 they deftroy equally cloths and provißons of all 
 kinds. They are not lefs troublefome in gar- 
 dens, where they alfo form their covert ways, 
 between the root and the top of trees, wafting 
 the fap, and devouring the buds and the extre- 
 mities of the branches. Our chambers were 
 full of them : We took the meafures which are 
 ordinarily employed, to quit ourfelves of them ; 
 deftroying their cells and palTages feveral times 
 focceffiveiy. Tlie infed indeed reftores thefe 
 With, amazing rapidity, efpecially in the dark j 
 but it at length yields. On our way hither, 
 we had obferved a number of buihes covered 
 with earth, in which were a vaft quantity of 
 galleries form.ed by thofe little animals. The 
 
 Ihrub 
 
IN ARABIA, ' 271; 
 
 fhrub which they had attacked in this manner 
 was always withered. 
 
 The city of Beit el Fakih is not of ancient 
 origin. It has exifted only for fome centuries; 
 and, like Loheia, owes its rife to a faint, called 
 Achmed iba Mufa, from whom it has derived its 
 name ; Beit el Fakih meaning the houje or dwel- 
 ling of the Jage. The tomb of that faint is 
 ihewn without the city, upon a fandy hili, 
 where a fine mofque has been reared. At firft, 
 fome devout perfons built themfeives cottages, 
 round the tomb. The harbour of Ghalejka was 
 about the fame time choaked up ; and the in- 
 habitants of that city, for the convenience of 
 trade, then removed all their eitecls to the vi- 
 cinity of this tomb, and fettled about it. When 
 it had thus become a confidcrable city, the 
 Lord of the territory built a citadel for its de- 
 fence, in a place where water had been found. 
 The city is now nearer the tomb ; and the vi- 
 cinity of the tomb is almoil deferted. 
 
 That faint w^s a great worker of miracles. 
 The following is the rnoft wonderful which he 
 performed. A Turkilh Pacha, who had been 
 for twenty years a captive in Spain, where he 
 was bound with maffy and ponderous chains to 
 two large Hones, had long invoked, in vain, the 
 aid of feveral different faints^ At laft, he be- 
 thought him of the great Achmed, and invoked 
 
 hini 
 
17- KirBUHR's TRAVELS 
 
 , flim alfo in his turn. The faint ftretched out 
 his hand from his tomb ; and, at that very in- 
 ftant, the Pacha arrived from Spain, bearing 
 with him his ftones and chains. The miracle 
 took place on the evening of the anniverfary 
 feftival of the faint, in the prefence of many 
 witneffes. Such a miracle, of fo late a date, and 
 performed fo publicly, they conüder as proved 
 by the moll unexceptionable evidence. 
 
 So modern a city cannot contain many an- 
 tiquities of an interefting nature. Yet I copied 
 l^ere an ancient Kufic infcription, in the prefence 
 of many fpedators, none of whom fufpeded mcj 
 as the Egyptians had done, of any intention to 
 feek out and pilfer their treafures. Thpy were 
 all very obliging, and efpecially the Schechs, 
 or learned Arabs, who feemed pleafed that ftran- 
 gers fhould iliew a defire to acquire their lan- 
 guage. In this city, as well as in Loheia, I ob- 
 tained much information from a clafs of Arab 
 literati, who came much about us. Thefe are 
 denominated Fakih, and no where through Ara- 
 bia GO their circumftances appear to correfpond 
 to their merit. 
 
 The city of Beit el Fakih is in a favourable 
 fituation for trade ; being only half a day's jour- 
 iiey from the hills in which the coffee grows, 
 and but a few days journies from the harbours 
 Qf Loheia, Hodeida, and Mokha, from which 
 
 this 
 
IN ARABIA, Ü'tV 
 
 this commodity is exported , it naturally be- 
 comes the moil confiderable mart for it. This 
 trade brings hither merchants from Egypt, Sy- 
 ria, Barbary, Perlia, Habbefch, India, and of- 
 ten from Europe. Here are alfoj as in all the 
 other great towns ia Arabia, a number of Ba- 
 nians, all of them natives of Diu, who are al- 
 lowed the free exercife of their religion. Yet 
 they dare not bring their women hither, nor 
 burn their dead : and thefe prohibitions induce 
 them to return to their native country, alfooii; 
 as they have accummulated a little fortune. 
 
 Beit el Fakih is the relidence of a Dola, whofe 
 jurifdi6lion extends over a large diiiricl. This 
 Dola feemed to take little concern about us 
 and his indifference left us more at liberty than 
 we had been at Loheia. Emir Farhan, having 
 underffood that Mr Forikal rambled out through 
 the neighbourhood by himfelf, thought that he- 
 might fall into fome mifhap, by expofing himfelf 
 ip carelefsly, and therefore would not fufFer us to 
 go out of Loheia, without having one of his fol- 
 diers to accompany us. This kind oi affiduity 
 proved trouble fome to us ; as we did not wifli 
 to have a witnefs to. overhear all our enquiries, 
 and fpy all our operations. Beiides, we found 
 the inhabitants of Yemen in fuch a Hate of civi-- 
 lazation, that we could travel among them with 
 
 ¥oL. L Mm. th& 
 
I 
 
 2,74 kiebuhr's travels 
 
 the fame fafety as in Europe. The Dola of Be-*, 
 it el Fakih did us a real favour by negleding uS;, 
 and fuffering us to travel about the countryj un- 
 incumbered with attendants^ 
 
 SECTION 
 
In ARABlAj i^dh 
 
 ^75 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 EXGÜRSIÖNS THROUGH' THE COUNTRY ] A50ÜX 
 BEIT EL FAKIH-. 
 
 Ceap L 
 
 journey to Ghaleßa. 
 
 In order that we might avail ourfelves of the 
 liberty which we enjoyed at Beit el Fakih, Ij. 
 for my part, purpofed to vifit fome places which 
 are now ruinous, but were once famous, and 
 are mentioned by Abalfeda« I hoped that I 
 might difcover fome infcriptions, tending to ex- 
 plain what changes the manners and language 
 of this province had undergone : I accomplifli- 
 ed, at lead in part, what I deßred. 
 
 As I was convinced that I might travel in 
 fafety through all Tehama, I refolved to go by 
 Ohalefka, and to perform this expedition in as 
 iimple a guife as pofiible, and without any ap- 
 M m 2 pearance 
 
276 
 
 KIEBÜHr's TRAVEIS 
 
 pearance of fplendour or opulence that miglit 
 prove a temptation to robbers. I hired an afs 
 and its owner agreed to follow me as my fer- 
 vant, on foot. A turban, a great coat wanting 
 the fleeves, a fhirt, linen drawers, and a pair 
 of flippers, w^ere all the drefs that I wore. It 
 being the fafhion of the countrj to wear arnis 
 in travelling, I carried a fabre, and two piftols 
 hung by my girdle. A piece of an old carpet 
 was my faddle, and ferved me likewife for a 
 feat, a table and various other purpofes. To 
 cover me at night, I had the linen cloak which 
 tlie Arabs wrap about their ftioulders, to fhelter 
 them from the fun and rain. A bucket of wa- 
 ter, an article of indifpenlible necefiity to a tra- 
 veller in thefe arid regions, hung by my faddle, 
 I had for fome time endeavoured to fuit myfelf 
 to the Arabian manner of living, and now could 
 fpare many conveniences to which I had been 
 accuilomed. in Europe, and could content my- 
 felf wdth bad bread, the only article to be ob^ 
 tained in mod of the inns. 
 
 On the 7th of March, I fet out from Beit el 
 Fakih ; and, before I had travelled a mile, faw 
 feveral villages ; but, upon all the reft of the 
 way to Ghalef ka, which is four miles and a 
 half, I faw not a fingle dwelling, nor any mark 
 of human induftry, but a few wells. For the 
 J two laft miles, the way lies through fo fandy 
 
 a tradl. 
 
m ARABIA, Oc. ' ÜJf 
 
 ^ tra<5l, that my guide often loft himfelf ; fuck 
 are the continual changes which the wind pro- 
 duces on the fcenery, by demolifhing the hil- 
 locks, carrying the fand about, and forming o- 
 thers. We were even obliged to turn feveral 
 times out of what w^e knew to be the true di-- 
 redion, in order to avoid being buried in fome 
 •of thofe hillocks which w^ere then forming. 
 ^ Ghalef ka is at the fame diftance from Zehid as 
 from Beit el Fakih* 
 
 Ghalefka was once a famous city ; and the 
 fea-port town of Zebid was then in an equally 
 flourifhing condition. That harbour is now 
 üiled up, fo that no fhip, of however fmall bur- 
 den, can enter it : Not only has the fea reced- 
 ed, while the banks of coral have been augmen- 
 ted, but a quantity of fand has been here ac- 
 cumulated by the winds, which aciually rifes 
 into a hill of coniiderable height. The rains 
 of a mofque are ftili to be feen here, vv^hich was 
 dedicated to a faint, who, by his prayers, ob- 
 tained from Heaven an excellent fpring of wa- 
 ter, for which, the inhabitants believe, that 
 they ought ftill to be grateful to him. About a 
 fcore of cottages now hold all the inhabitants 
 of this once ßourifliing city ; and dates, w^ith 
 the milk and fleüi of a few fneep, are all the 
 provifions they have. 
 
 The 
 
The fea affords them no fiih, nor any thing 
 ^Ife, but fait ; of which every perfon may have 
 as much as he pleafes, upon paying a fmall fee 
 to the Dola of Beit el Fakih's fecretary. 
 
 In a burying place near this poor village,' I 
 found two ftones bearing Kußc infciiptions ; one 
 of them w^as large, and flood on end ; the other 
 lay fiat upon a tomb, and was but fmall. The 
 inhabitants could not comprehend for what rea- 
 ion I was fo eager to copy the infcriptions from 
 the larger ftone ; but when I returned next day 
 to do the fame for that upon the fm aller flone, I 
 found it to have been carried away in the nighty 
 I applied to the Hakim ar judge of the village, 
 snd offered him a trifle if he could procure me 
 another fight of it* He led me through many 
 turnings and windings to a poor hutj in w^hich 
 V7as the tomb of another faint ; and we there 
 found the fl:one that I was in fearch of ; by his 
 Eccount of the matter, it had not been hidden by 
 the inhabitants, but the faint had brought it hi» 
 ther himfelf. Notwithftanding the faint's care of 
 it, the Hakim oöered me this ftone with me to 
 Beit el Fakih, if I would be at the expence of 
 Bavin^ it conveyed^ 
 
 Chaf« 
 
ARABIA, ^.Co., 1']% 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Return to Belt, el Fakih by the %uay of Hodelda,^^ 
 
 T SET out next day from Ghalefka, with my afs 
 and ^ owner. The road lies, for thp greater 
 part of it, along the üiore, through a fandy and 
 "barren country. The only vegetables by whick 
 it is enlivened, are a few date trees. A number 
 of coffee-houfes, hov/ever^ and one village occur 
 here to the traveller. At fome diilance from the 
 village, are a few houfes fcattered among groves 
 of date-trees, but which are inhabited only in 
 the feafon when the dates are gathered. I arriv- 
 ed the fame evening at Hodeida, which is about 
 five German miles diftant from Ghalef ka. 
 
 The harbour of Hodeida is fome what better 
 than that of Loheia. Yet large velTals cannot 
 enter it. The Dola of Hodeida is accountable 
 only to the Imam. But his jurifdidion is con- 
 lined to this city. His revenues coniift in part 
 of the duties upon coffee exported. The man- 
 iion of the Dola, the cuilom-houfe, and the houf- 
 es of the principal merchants are Hone buildings. 
 The reft of the town confifts of huts built in the 
 ordinary llile. Near the fea, ftands a fmall cita- 
 del. 
 
NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 äd, which could not prove a very ilrong defenee. 
 This city has alio its patron faint, Shech Sddik^^ 
 who is honoured with due veneration. 
 
 At Hodeidaj I found my friends Von. Havea, 
 and Cramer, who had come hither to deiiver two 
 letters of recommendation, from our friends m 
 Jidda to tli€ Dola, and an eminent merchant in 
 this place. They had been received, lodg^ and 
 treated in the kindeft mamer. But I, not being 
 difpofed to iofe my time in vifits, returned on the 
 next day, which, was the 9th of March, to Beit 
 d Fakih._ 
 
 In this feafon of the year, night is always pre- 
 ferred for travelling through Tehama. I ihould 
 not have had it in my power, therefore, to diftin* 
 guifli fuch obje& as deferved notice, if I had not 
 chofen to depart from the prevalent cuflom, and 
 to expofe myfelf to the torrid heat of the day. 
 
 On the road, are a number of cofFee -huts, but 
 TCry few villages. A mile and a half from Hol 
 deida, there is a w^ell of excellent water, which 
 is carried to that city for the ufe of the inhabi- 
 tants ; the water which they have nearer, being 
 Tery bad. As I approached Beit el Fakih, I paf- 
 fed through fome paultry villages ; and arrived 
 at my place of deftination, on the fame day up- 
 on which I had fet out. The diftance between 
 Beit el Fakih and Hodeida, is, by my eftimatlon«, 
 feYen German miles j and this journey I perfor- 
 , . - . ~ _med,. 
 
IN ARABIA, 281' 
 
 med in one day, under the moft fcorching heat 
 and upon a hired afs. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 Journey to Zebid. 
 
 H AVING found the Arabs very civil, and having 
 met with no difagreeable accident in my firft ex- 
 curfion, I was impatient to fet out again. I ac"^ 
 cordingly departed for Zebid on the iith of 
 March, to fee the remains of that famous city, 
 which was once the capital of Tehama ; and to 
 invefliigate fome ancient infcriptions which were 
 faid to be concealed at Tahcete, a fmall town in 
 that neighbourhood. An Arab who was learned, 
 but poor, accompanied me in this expedition, 
 and was glad of the opportunity of viliting an 
 old friend at Zebid, without expence. I was no 
 lefs pleafed to have him for the companion of 
 my journey, as his converfation was very enter- 
 taining. 
 
 After palling by feveral coffee-houfes, and 
 through fome fmall hamlets, we came to a large 
 village called El Mahad, Handing in a beautiful 
 valley which receives the waters that fall from 
 Mount Rema, In the rainy feafon, thefe waters 
 form a river v/hich fpreads into feveral branches, 
 
 Vol. I. N n ani 
 
nieeuhr's travels 
 
 and fertilizes the adjacent lands. A large quan- 
 tity of indigo grows in this valley. In this neigh- 
 bourhood, too, there flood anciently a confidera- 
 ble city, called alfo El Mahad ^ but of it no vef- 
 tige now remains. 
 
 Near Zebid are fome heaps of ftones, which 
 are faid to be a part of the ruins of another 
 large and ancient city that was called El Hand, 
 I arrived early in the morning at Zebid ; hav- 
 ing travelled in a Ihort time five German miles, 
 which is the computed diilance betv»reen this 
 town and Beit el Fakih. 
 
 Zebid is fituate near the largeft and mofl fer- 
 tile valley in all Tehama. It was dry when I 
 vifited it ; but, in the rainy feafon, a large river 
 runs through it, and being, like the Nile, conduct- 
 ed by canals through the neighbouring fields^ 
 communicates to them an high degree of ferti- 
 lity. 
 
 Zebid was once the place of a fovereign's refi- 
 dence, and the moft commercial city in all Te- 
 hama. But, fince the harbour of Ghalefka was 
 choaked up, its trade has been transferred to Beit 
 el Fakih and Mokha ; and this city now retains 
 nothing but the ihadow of its former fpiendour. 
 Viewed from a diftance, it appears to fome ad- 
 vantage, by means of the mofques and Kubbets, 
 of which it is full. Several of thofe mofques 
 were ere€led by different Pachas who refided 
 
 here, 
 
m ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 283 
 
 here, during the fliort period while this part of 
 Arabia was inthepofleffionof the Ottoman Porte» 
 But Zebid pays dear for its exterior magni- 
 ficence ; its inhabitants are impoveriflied by the 
 numerous clergy belonging to thofe pious foun- 
 dations, by whom the wealth of this place is al- 
 moft wholly engroiTed. I was told, as a matter of 
 certainty, that if the whole revenue of the ter- 
 ritory be confidered as divided into five parts, 
 the clergy receive three of thefe, the Imam one 
 for the taxes, and the inhabitants have only one- 
 fifth remaining for their maintenance. 
 
 The Turks have left here one ufeful monument 
 of their power ; an aqueduft, which conveyed 
 water from the hills into the city. But this 
 work has been fo negleded, that only its ruins 
 now remain, and the inhabitants are obliged to 
 content themfelves with water from their draw- 
 wells ; which is fortunately not bad, and in fuch 
 plenty as to w^ater many fine gardens that are 
 to be feen in the neighbourhood of the city. 
 
 Abulfeda afcribes eight gates to Zebid ; but 
 of thefe, only five are now Handing, and the ri- 
 ver is gradually breaking down a part of them. 
 The walls of the Old City are demolifhed, and 
 the very ruins are fold by poor people who ga- 
 ther out the ft ones, and fell them for building new 
 N n 2 houfes- 
 
284 niebuhr's travels 
 
 houfes. The prefent buildings occupy about 
 one half of the ancient extent of the city. 
 
 Zebid is ftill diilinguifhed for an academy, in 
 which the youth of Tehama, and of a part of 
 Yemen, lludy fuch fciences as are cultivated a- 
 mong the MulTulmans. This is, befides, the fea^ 
 ofaDola, a Mufti, and a Cadi, of the fed of Scha- 
 fey ; and of two other Cadis of the fed of Tjeid'u 
 to which the Imam and the greater part of his 
 fubjeds profefs to belong. 
 
 In the inn, I met with the vaineft and mod 
 foolifhly loquacious man I had yet feen among 
 the Arabs. He was a Sherriffe, or nobleman of 
 the firftrank, but, being poor and beggarly, tra- 
 velled about the country, living at the expence 
 of the more opulent profelTors of his religion. 
 Having been in Egypt, Syria, and even Abyfli- 
 nia, he boafted, that he could fpeak feveral fo- 
 reign languages, although all that he knew of 
 thefe, was, a few proverbs. I wiihed to obtain 
 fome information from him concerning the coun- 
 tries through which he had travelled ; but he 
 could tell nothing but the names of a vaft num- 
 ber of Schiechs, Pachas, and Dolas, by all of 
 whom he pretended to have been received with 
 the honours due to a defcendent öf Mahomet. 
 He difgufted and fickened me with everlafting 
 babbling about his genealogy and high birth. 
 He looked with difdain upon the Turkifh Scher - 
 
 rips, 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, 285 
 
 rifes, and the Arabian Seids, becaufe they con- 
 neded themfelves in marriage with ftrange wo- 
 men. No perfon, in his family, he faid, had e- 
 ver married a vulgar wench. He gave the name 
 of Sberriffa, to a poor woman v^ho made coffee 
 for us, this being the title by which ladies of the 
 higheft quality are here diftinguifhed ; and ha- 
 rangued long upon her pure and illuilrious ge- 
 nealogy. His fon, a boy often years, who ad:- 
 ed as his fervant, never received another name 
 from him than Sherriffe Achmet. The father 
 had hired only one Serir for his fon and himfelf 
 together : whereas every other traveller who i^ 
 not abfolutely mendicant, hires here a feparate 
 couch, juil as feparate rooms are occupied by 
 different travellers in the inns of Europe. With 
 all thofe airs of greatnefs, he often abufcd his 
 fon, and called him Koilh ihn Kcdlh^ dog fon of a 
 dog. 
 
 When I had finiflied my refearches at Zebid 
 we fet out on the 12th of March, and, after a ride 
 of two German miles, reached Taha:te, wnicii 
 was once a town of fome magnitude, but has 
 now dwindled to a fmall village. The road 
 leads ftill through J¥adi Zebid, the vale or the 
 bed of the river ; in which the fields had a 
 beautiful and rich appearance, wherever they 
 had not been encroached upon and ravaged by 
 the torrents. Much indigo is raifed here ; I 
 
 counted 
 
KIEBÜHR's TRAVELS 
 
 286 
 
 counted more than fix hundred large veffels, in 
 which this colouring matter is prepared for fale. 
 
 In this village are alfo feveral mofques and 
 houfes of prayer, reared over the tombs of faints 
 or opulent perfons. Ibn Haffan is the chief of 
 the faints. His tomb is always illuminated by 
 night with lamps ; and one of his defcendarits 
 keeps a Manfale, or houfe of hofpitable entertain- 
 ment, in the village. I lodged in a common inn : 
 but the mailer of the Manfale came to invite me 
 to his houfe, and, when he found me unwilling 
 to remove, fent me a good fupper. I had been 
 told, that the mafters of Manfales accept no mo. 
 mey ; But he of Tahwte did not refufe a fmall 
 gratuity. 
 
 Finding nothing remarkable in this village? 
 wefetout upon the 13th of March, for Beit el 
 Fakih. I faw no houfes by the way except the 
 populous village of Murra, fituate in the beauti- 
 ful vale el Mahad, In this village are many 
 Kuhhets, and a large Manfale, in which thirty or 
 forty people are daily entertained (cc). 
 
 Chap. 
 
 > 
 
tN ARABIA, 
 
 2S7 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 'Jotirney to Kahhme. 
 
 Being now ftill more fatisfied by experieiice 
 of the eafe and fecurity with which a perfoo 
 might travel through Yemen ; I immediately 
 prepared for another excurfion. The approach 
 of Ramadan^ which was this year to begin on 
 the 16th of March, gave me fome concern. 
 
 I was afraid, that the Muflulmans, who lived 
 fo near the Holy Cityj, might be ftill more rigid 
 obfervers of this faft, than their brethren who 
 were placed at a greater diftance. The Egyp- 
 tian Arabs, who had been in company with us in 
 the preceding Ramadan, kept the faft as reli- 
 gioully, while we were travelling, as they 
 could have done at home. Through the 
 whole day they would eat or drink nothing ; 
 and they were difpleafed to fee us take the fmalL 
 eft refrefhment. I fhould not have liked to fuf- 
 fer the fame inconveniences here. Eut I was 
 not a little furprized to find, that the Arabs of 
 Yemen were lefs fcrupulous, and, upon a journeyp 
 continued to take the ufual refrefliments, with- 
 out mortifying themfelves with abftinence ; but 
 intending, as they faid, to keep Lent for as many 
 days next month. But it is probable, that they 
 
 would 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 would not always recoiled: the number of days 
 very accurately (dd). 
 
 After being thus fatisfied, that, although it 
 was Ramadan, I might ftill eat as ufual, I fet 
 out upon the 19th, accompanied only by the 
 owner of the afs upon which I rode, for Kahhme? 
 where I expelled to find fome remains of anti- 
 quity in the ruins of the city Lelue. I palTed by 
 fome villages ; and, nearer the mountains, vil- 
 lages are indeed more numerous. The moil 
 confiderable of thofe which I pafTed was el Ach- 
 fa, famous for the tomb of a faint, named Scbiecb 
 el Achfa, fon to the holy Achmet ihn Mufa, 
 whom I have before mentioned as the patron of 
 Beit el Fakih. I alfo croffed a vale, through 
 which runs a river which joins the river of Re- 
 ma. In the rainy feafon, the latter holds its 
 courfe to the fea, and enters it near Schurenu 
 
 I went, immediately after my arrival at Kahh- 
 me, to fearch for the antiquities of Lelue, But 
 I found only a large burying place, filled v/itb 
 pentagonal ftones, each eight inches in diame- 
 ter, and four or five feet long. When I faw 
 thofe fiiones, fo uniformly of this regular figure, 
 I was at firft inclined to think, that they might 
 have received it from the hand of art. But I 
 foon perceived a hill in the neighbourhood whol- 
 ly compofed of pentagonal ftones, where thofe 
 people had found the feemingly artificial orna- 
 ments 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C» 
 
 nieilts of their burying place. The rocks of 
 that hill are a pile of vertical columns, of the fi- 
 gure and thicknefs above mentioned, rifing one 
 over another, as well as fpreading for fome ex- 
 tent, in a parallel body, and feemingly joined 
 by a fort of flight cement. I faw fome other piles 
 of rocks of the fame fort, in other places through 
 Arabia. After my return to Europe, I found, 
 in a mailufcript written by Mr Kcenig, that this 
 learned Dane had difcovered in Iceland, moun- 
 tains confining of fimilar pantagonal columns,; 
 arranged in a vertical pofition, each column 
 three ells in height, and half an ell thick. Thefe 
 Hones are called by naturalills, Bafaltes (ee). 
 
 After examining the few curiofities which 
 Kahhme afforded, I returned to Beit el Fakih^ 
 purpofing foon to fet out on fome new excuE-» 
 fions. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Journey to Coffee-Mountains, 
 
 Düring my abfence, Mr Forllall had wot 
 been idle upon the hills where the coffee is pro^ 
 duced, whither he had gone to profecute his bota- 
 nical refearches, His defcription of that part of 
 YoL. I.' O Ö th^e- 
 
290 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 country had already induced MeiTrs Cramer and 
 Baurenfeind to follow him : I alfo refolved to 
 join my comrades, that I might breathe cooler 
 air, and drink better water. The fpace I had 
 to travel v/as only half a day's journey ; and, 
 in the courfe of this, I met with nothing re- 
 markable. 
 
 I foon came within light of the fmall tovm 
 of Hadie, iituate upon one of the foremoil emi- 
 nences. The roads are very bad : A caufeway 
 was indeed formed by the Turks ; but it has 
 been fuffered to fall away, without receiving 
 any repairs. My friends, whom I had expect- 
 ed to find in this town, were in the gardens up- 
 on the hill. I came up with then), after travel- 
 ling two hours longer, near BuJgofa, one of thofe 
 villages whofe inhabitants fubfift upon the pro- 
 fits which their crops of coifed afford. Neither 
 afles nor mules can be ufed here : the hills are 
 to be climbed by narrow and fteep paths : Yet^ 
 in comparifon with the parched plains of Teha- 
 ma, the fcenery feemed to me charming ; as it 
 was covered with gardens and plantations of cof-. 
 fee-trees. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Kahhme, I had feen 
 only one fmall bafaltic hill ; but here, whole 
 mountains were compofed chiefly of thofe co- 
 lumns. Such detached rocks formed grand ob- 
 jeds in the landfcape, efpecially where cafcades 
 
 of 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 igt 
 
 of water v/ere feen to rufh from their fumniits. 
 The cafcades, in fuch inftances, had the appear^ 
 ance of being fupported by rows of artificial pil- 
 lars. Thefe bafaltes are of great utility to the 
 inhabitants : the columns, which are eafily fe- 
 parated, ferve as fteps where the afcent is molt 
 difficult ; and as materials for walls to fup- 
 port the plantations of coffee-trees, upon the 
 fleep declivities of the mountains. 
 
 The tree which affords the coffee is well 
 known in Europe ; fo that I need not here de- 
 ^:ribe it particularly. The coffee- trees were all 
 in flower at Bulgofa^ and exhaled an exquifitely 
 agreeable perfume. They are planted upon ter- 
 races, in the form of an amphitheatre. Moil 
 of them are only watered by the rains that fall ; 
 but fome, indeed, from large refervoirs upon 
 the heights ; in which fpring water is colleded, 
 in order to be fprhikled upon the terraces; where 
 the trees grow fo thick together, that the rays 
 of the fun can hardly enter among their branch- 
 es. We were told, that thofe trees, thus arti- 
 ficially watered, yielded ripe fruit twice in the 
 year : but the fruit becomes not fully ripe the 
 fecond time : And the coffee of the fecond crop 
 is always inferior in quality to that of the firil. 
 
 Stones being more common in this part of the 
 country, than at Tehama, the houfes, as well 
 ®f the villages, as thofe which are fcattered fo- 
 Oo2 jjur 
 
KIEBUHR^S TRAVEL^ 
 
 litarily over the hills, are built of this material, 
 Although not to be compared with the houfes 
 in Europe, for commodioufnefs or elegance, yet 
 they have a good appearance ; efpecially fuch of 
 them as ftand upon the heights, with beautiful 
 gardens, and trees, arranged in the form of an 
 amphitheatre, around them. 
 
 Even at Bulgofa, we were greatly above the 
 level of the plain from which we had afcended : 
 Jet, fcarcely had we climbed half the the afcent 
 to Kiifmay where the Dola of this diitrid dwells, 
 upon the loftiell peak of this range of mountains. , 
 Enchanting Jandfcapes there rneet the eye upon 
 all fides. , 
 
 We paffed the night at Bulgofa. Several of 
 the men of the village came to fee us ; and, af- 
 ter they retired, we had a vifit from our hoft- 
 efs, with for^e young' women accompanying her, 
 who were all very defirpus to fee the Europeans? 
 They feemed lefs fny than the women in the ci^ 
 ties : their faces were unveiled ; and they talked 
 freely with us : As the air is frelher and cooler 
 upon thefe hills, the women have here a finer _ 
 and fairer complexion than in the plain. Mr 
 Baurenfeind drew a portrait of a young girl who 
 was going to draw water, and was drelTed in a 
 fhirt of linen, chequered blue and white. The 
 top and the middle of the fhirt^ as well as the 
 
 low'e? 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 lower part of her drawers, were embroidered 
 with needle-work of different colours. 
 
 On the loth of March, we returned down- 
 wards as far as Hadie ; a place well known to 
 the Europeans ; who come hither from Beit el 
 Fakih, to pafs fome time occafionally in this lit- 
 tie town, where the air is cool, and the water 
 frelh and pure. It is, however, but ill-buiit, and 
 has nothing elfe of confequence, except its trade 
 in coffee, which the inhabitants of the hills bring 
 down upon certain days in the week. After the 
 duties are paid to the Dola, the coffee is packed 
 up and conveyed upon camels, either to Beit el 
 Fakih or diredly to Hodeida. ' 
 
 We enjoyed a Angular and beautiful profpeö 
 from the houfe of the Sub-Dola at Hadie, and 
 returned in the evening to Beit el Fakih, by the 
 fame way by which we had gone, in our joprney 
 up the mountains. 
 
 SECTION 
 
niebuhr's TRäVELS^ 
 
 SECTION X, 
 
 JOURNEY THROUGH THE MOUNTAINOUS PART 
 OF YEMENo 
 
 Chap L 
 
 f)eparture from Beti el FaMh. 
 
 W E met with lefs difficulty in the profecntion 
 ©f ourrefearches at Beit el Fakih, than any where 
 eife through Yemen. The inhabitants of that 
 city were no ßrangers to European manners, and 
 Jcnew that we could not, like them, reft conftant- 
 ly ill one place, They wert therefore nowife 
 furprized at our excurfions, but were fully fatisfi- 
 ed when we told them^ that the exercife was ne- 
 ceffary for our health. 
 
 Oar 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 ^9S 
 
 Our Friends, whom Mr Forikal and I confuked 
 upon the fubjedofour expeditions, could not com- 
 prehend why we chofe to travelabout in the feafoii 
 when the heats were moil intenfe; while they who 
 were accuftomed to the climate, never went with- 
 out doors when they could avoid it. Believing^ 
 that we had come into Arabia, only to find an 
 opportunity of a palTage to India, they advifed 
 us to take no fatigue, but to attend to our health. 
 At length, when they faw us perfifh in negleding 
 their advice, and obfe-rved, that we lived at a 
 coniiderabie expence, without feeking to gain 
 by trade ; they began to imagine, that v.^e had 
 the art of making gold, and that Mr ForfKal, in 
 his excurfions upon the mountains, was feeking 
 plants which might be neceflary in this great 
 work. My aftronomical obfervations, agaiii^ 
 acquired me the reputation of a magician. 
 
 Happily for us, thefe üirewd conjectures were 
 confined to the fmall circle of our acquaintance^ 
 The Dola feemed to have abfolutely forgotten us? 
 and had as yet made no enquiry concerning our 
 purpofej in vifiting his dominion. I v/as defirous, 
 therefore, to avail myfeif of this fliort period of 
 liberL3', and to penetrate into the interior parts 
 of Yemen, after rambling through the environs 
 of Beit el Fakih, in Tehama. The fouthern part 
 of the mountains I expecied to fee, in a journey 
 which we purpofed to make from Mokha to Sa^ 
 
 na ; 
 
296 NIEBÜHr'S TRA'V'jEt^ 
 
 na ; at prefent, therefore, I determined to vifif 
 Udden and Ta^es, But I found that the fituation- 
 of thefe towns had been reprefented to me, as 
 more northern than it really was. 
 
 Through all Tehama, travelling is equally 
 fafe by night a^ by day. Still, however, I fear- 
 ed that it might be dangerous to travel alone in 
 a mountainous country, in folitary roads, where 
 difagreeable accidents might befal one by day 
 not lefs than by night. Belides, I could not 
 fpeak the language of the Highlanders, w^iich 
 differs coniiderably from that of the inhabitants 
 of the plain. For all thefe reafons, I was indu- 
 ced to beg Mr Forfkalj who had learned fome- 
 thing of the language of the Highlands, upon the 
 eolFee-mountains, to accompany mein my intend- 
 ed expedition. My friend agreed, in the hope 
 of finding new matter for his botanical refearch- 
 es. 
 
 The preparations for our journey were ealiJy 
 made. We hired two alTes, and the owner at- 
 tended us on foot, as our guide, our fervant, and 
 öccalionally our interpreter. We had already 
 large beards in the Arab fafliion ; and thefe^ 
 with our long robes, gave us a very orient ap- 
 pearance. To difguife ourfelves ftill more, each 
 of us alTumed an Arabic name ; and, under thefe 
 pretenlions, our real condition w^as fo perfedly 
 concealed, that even the owner of afles thought 
 
 tl3 
 
SN ARABIA, Wc, 
 
 297 
 
 iis Chriftians of the Ealt ; and had no fufpicion 
 that we were Europeans. In this garb, and at'' 
 tended hy the afs- hirer, we fet out on the 26th 
 ©f Marchj from Beit el Fakih, 
 a a 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Route by Udden: 
 
 "We pafled through feveral villages in croffing 
 the plain, and, after a journey of five German 
 miles and a half, reached Roho^ where is a week- 
 ly Suk or market. Here we lay the firil night« 
 
 Next day,, after advancing a mile farther, we 
 entered upon the mountains. Near the firft vil- 
 lage, we obferved a running ftream, the firft wt 
 faw in Arabia. Till it enters Tehama, this river 
 is called Wadi Zehid, Its channel is very broad ^ 
 but as no rain had for a long time fallen, the 
 {tream covered the breadth of twenty, or four 
 and twenty feet. In this place it runs with a 
 confiderable current ; but in Tehama it fpreads 
 into a fhallow lake, and is lofl among the fands. 
 
 The fame day, we paßed near Mount SuUam^ 
 where, from the account given by an Arab who 
 lived in the country, I had been led to expctl 
 that I ßiould find hieroglyphics or infcriptions. 
 
 Vol, IV F p cut 
 
298 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 cut upon the rock. But, I found only fome fi« 
 gures which had been impreffed at an idle hour 
 by fome Ihepherd, and were as coarfely executed 
 as thofe upon Mount Sinai, ^V^^lay at Mcichfa^ 
 
 The road by which we trave} . I i* not much 
 frequented by travellers. The ways are very 
 bad and unfafe, and fcarce a houfe appears upon 
 any hand. Within thefe few years, however, 
 they have become lefs dangerous than they were 
 before. The lord of Udden has placed fome fol- 
 diers with a Sub-Dola, at Machfa, who is re- 
 fponiible for the thefts or robberies that happen 
 in his diftrid. This regulation of the police has 
 difperfed the robbers, 
 
 Machfa is one of the villages in which weekly 
 fairs are held. The houfes are ftill more wretch- 
 ed here than in Tehama. They have no walls, 
 and confift merely of a few poles laid together* 
 and covered with reeds. Wc could fcarcely 
 lodge in one of thofe huts; fo fmall were they, that 
 a perfon could not ftand ftraight in the middle ; 
 and two perfons lying together upon the floor, 
 occupied the whole area of the houfe. It would 
 not have held a fingle Serir. The inhabitants 
 lit and fleep upon the bare ground. The air 
 being colder in this part of the country, than in 
 Tehama ; the people here put on a bag upon their 
 bodies when they go to fleep, and are warmed 
 by their natural perfpiration. In none of the 
 
 inns^ 
 
IN ARABIA, ISc. 
 
 2Q9 
 
 inns, could we find any other fort of food but 
 hoarfe Durra bread, made of millet with camel's 
 milk ; but the water is every where delicious. 
 
 On the 28th of March, we paiTed, by winding 
 roads, through a diftrid in which the lands be- 
 gan to appear more fertile and better cultivated. 
 The houfes are here much more commodious, 
 being built of ftone, and flat-roofed. Yet, the 
 houfes of the peafants are, here too, without walls, 
 unlefs we give the name to dry ftones, piled one 
 upon another, and having no mortar to cement 
 them. The roofs are covered with earth. 
 
 We pafled through a village in which was a 
 fair ; a circumftance which made us hallen for- 
 ward, as we were defirous to avoid the crowd. 
 Near this place, at the foot of a high hill, w^e 
 obferved a fort of gliftering, micaceous fand. 
 The people of the country have been led, from 
 the appearance of this fand, to fancy that the hill 
 affords gold. On the heights, we faw the tombs 
 of feveral faints too ; and near one of thofe tombs 
 a wooden trough, into which fome devout per- 
 fons are conllantly pouring water for the ufe of 
 the cattle which pafs. We lay in a coffee- hut, 
 near a village which is inhabited only for one 
 day in the week, namely the market-day ; fo 
 that we found no inhabitant there, when we'paf- 
 fed, except our landlord. 
 
 P p 3 The 
 
300 NIEBÜHR'S TRAVELS 
 
 The inhabitants of thofe parts had been long 
 looking impatiently for rain. In order that they 
 might make the moft of it, when it fhould fall^ 
 the peafants had raifed dykes along the heights, to 
 dired the courfe of the waters upon their fields^ 
 The fields lay favourably for receiving it, being 
 formed into terraces, and thefe fupported by 
 walls, with ditches to preferve what water may 
 be necelFary to fupport vegetation. If this prac- 
 tice merit approbation, yet we cannot avoid 
 condemning the anlkilful expedient which thofe 
 Highlanders employ for felling trees : they fet 
 fire to the root, and keep it burning till the tree 
 fall of itfelfi 
 
 Next day, we came to a fmall river which 
 runs into the Zebid, and croifed alfo feveral ri- 
 vulets, which feem to be numerous in this part 
 of the country. Here, for the firfl time fince 
 our departure from Beit el Fakih, we faw plan- 
 tations of coffee-trees, along the fides of the road. 
 We now drew nearer to the river Zebid, of 
 "which a branch at this time was dry, and having 
 its channel filled with reeds growing to the height 
 of twenty feet, ferved as a line of road, which 
 was agreeably lhaded by the reeds. In the eve- 
 ning we arrived at Udden. 
 
 The town of Udden is fmall and unproteded. 
 It contains three hundred houfes, all of ftone. 
 The Imam keeps no Dola here. An hereditary 
 
 Schiechj 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 30i 
 
 Sdiiech, who is a vaflal of the Imanvs, is the go- 
 vernor. The Schiech refides in a palace, Hand- 
 ing upon a high hili without thp city. 
 
 Except the immediate neighbourhood of Ud- 
 den, the whole tracl of country through which 
 we travelled in this excurhon is thinly peopled. 
 But the territory of the town is fo much the 
 more populous, on account of the abundant pro- 
 duce of its coffee- trees, which is efteemed theve^ 
 4'7 bed co^ee in all Arabia. 
 
 Chap. IIL 
 
 From Udden to Dsjohia, 
 
 Leaving Udden on the 30th of March, we pro- 
 ceeded through a country which we found every 
 where more populous. Near avillage we faw a 
 plain planted with very indifferent fugar-canes. 
 
 Half the way lay over a very fteep Mountain ; 
 and had been formerly paved ; but had now 
 been long left without repairs. On this moun- 
 tain, I faw a new inftance of the care with which 
 the Arabians provide for the accommodation of 
 travellers. Here, for the iirft time, we found a 
 Madgil, or refervoir of excellent frefh-v/ater for 
 the ufe of paflengers. Such refervoirs are of ma- 
 
302 niebuhr's travels 
 
 foil- work, of a conical figure, and befide a refer- 
 voir, a vafe always ftands for drawing the water. 
 The traveller will do well, however, to carry 
 with him a cup of his own ; and ftill better, if, 
 with the cup, he have alfo a bucket. Through 
 all the fertile parts of Yemen, we found many of 
 thofe Madgils^ by the fides of the highways. 
 
 As ftorms are pretty frequent among thefe 
 mountains, fome fmall vaulted houfes have been 
 built upon that over which we palTed, to flielter 
 travellers when furprized by any fudden blaft. 
 
 The thermometer which we had with us, 
 compared with that which Mr Baurenfeind at 
 the fame time ufed in Beit el Fakih, fhewed the 
 great difference between the temperature of the 
 air upon the hills, and that of the plain. The 
 drefs of the inhabitants affords the fame indica^ 
 ticn, in a Ampler and more natural manner : 
 ¥/hile the inhabitants of Tehama went almoft 
 naked, thofe of the mountains wore warm fheep- 
 fkins. 
 
 As we advanced on our journey, we faw feve- 
 ral villages fituate in a cultivated trad. The 
 fides of the hills were covered with rye, and had 
 an agreeable afped:. This part of the country, 
 although in other refpeds very fertile, produces 
 no coffee. 
 
 The Arabs of Yemen, and efpecially the High« 
 landers, often flop fi:rangersj to aflc whence they 
 
 come, 
 
IN AkÄBIAj WCi 
 
 3^3 
 
 and whether they are going. Thefe queftions 
 are fuggefted merely by curiofity ; and it would 
 be indifcreet therefore to refufe to anfwer. We 
 told them commonly, that we came from Efcbam^ 
 the north y which led them to imagine, that we 
 were Turks from Syria. When af^ed whether 
 we were Turks, we replied that we were Najfa^ 
 ra ; and they then fuppofed us Greeks or Arme- 
 nians. We concealed our country, left we 
 fhould have expofed ourfelves ftill more to the 
 impertinence of their curiofity. The miftrefs of 
 the coffeehoufe fuppofed us to be Turkifh cler-' 
 gymgn, and recommended herfelf to our prayers. 
 At Bsjohla a man faluted me by the name of 
 Hadsji Achmed ; taking me for an old acquain- 
 tance. 
 
 Through the whole of this journey, w^e were 
 not once teized for palTports, or required to pajr 
 duties of any fort^ nor fubjeded to any of thofö 
 difficulties, which, even in Europe, are fo gener- 
 ally^troublefome to travellers. Although it was in 
 Ramadan, we ftill found our ordinary food, even 
 in the moft folitary cofFee-houfes ; and, in the 
 towns, gave no offence, when we purchafed 
 thofe articles which we preferred, in open day. 
 
 The town of Dsjobla is the capital of a diC 
 trid, and the feat of a Dola. It ftands upon the 
 brink of a fteep precipice, and feems to coniain 
 about fix hundred houfes, of a confiderable height 
 
 and' 
 
3^4 
 
 NIEBUHR^S TRAVEL^ 
 
 and a good appearance. Its ftreets are paved ; 
 a cafe uncommon in Arabia. The Jews dwell 
 here, and through all Yemen, in a feparate quar- 
 ter, without the city. 
 
 This place has been celebrated for ages ; and 
 yet I could difcover no remarkable infcription 
 about it. I was ftiewn the ruins of fome mof- 
 ques ; but thefe did not appear to me very an- 
 cient. The town has neither a caftle, nor walls. 
 At fome diftance is a place inclofed with v»^alls, 
 where a Turkifh Pacha has been interred : and 
 this proves that the conquefts of the Ottoman 
 Porte have been extended even over thefe moun- 
 tanous regions. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 ^oute from Dsjobla by Ties to Has. 
 
 On the 31ft of March, we continued our jour=. 
 ney, by winding paths^, over a trad; of country 
 diverfified by many inequalities of furface. We 
 lay in a v^ry large Sim/era^ (the Arabic name 
 for Kan or Karavanferai,) fituate on the fide of 
 a lofty hill. 
 
 From, this Kan we took a guide, to conduct 
 ns over a contiguous mountain^ which was much 
 
 higher 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 fligber, and on which, we had been told, that 
 we fhould fee an old Arabic caille. On the 
 fummit of this mountain we accordingly found 
 the ruins of a confiderable building of hewn 
 ftone, the walls of which were flanked with 
 towers. Here are ftill two refervoirs, of folid 
 mafon-work. The whole ftru61ure appears to 
 be of great antiquity : the Arabs afcribe it to 
 one AJfune jfcehheli. The word Jcehheli figni- 
 fies an unlettered perfon ; and by this appella- 
 tion the Arabs diftinguifh their own Pagan an- 
 ceftors from other idolaters, whom they call 
 Kafr, or infidels. I found no infcription about 
 this caftle. From this eminence, a noble prof- 
 pedl openSj of towns and villages fpreading over 
 the countryj to a conßderable diftance. 
 
 From the Sim/era, where we had flept, we pro- 
 ceeded down the hiliby the highway, which paff- 
 es between Mokha and Sana, This road is paved, 
 and not at all incommodious to the traveller, 
 although it winds around thefteep declivity of a 
 hill. We then croffed a pretty large plain, and 
 paffed near by a great number of villages, coffee- 
 huts and Madsjils, 
 
 We lay in one of the huts, which wasfo ill-pro- 
 vided in vidluals, that we could procure nothing 
 for fupper,buta fmall portion of bad bread. The 
 landlord had even difficulty in gathering fome fo- 
 rage to feed our affes. Early next day, we came 
 
 Vol. L Q q withi 
 
306 NIEBUHR^S TRAVELS 
 
 within fight of the citadel of Toes, but it Was 
 noon before we reached or faw the city. 
 
 Not wifiiing to be known, and intending to 
 fee Toes again on our journey to Sana, we did 
 not enter the city, but continued our progrefs to- 
 wrads Tehama. We foon left the great road 
 from Mokha, and turning weilward, travelled a- 
 long ilony and irregular paths^ without feeing a- 
 )iy thing remarkable. 
 
 Next day, the third of April, we continued 
 cur journey through a thinly inhabited and un- 
 fertile region. V\^e were furprifed at the quan-» 
 titles of ilones which lay over the arable lands^ 
 Some of the inhabitants think them necelTary, to 
 prevent the lands from being parched by the fun,» 
 but they rather mark negligence in the hufband- 
 liien : And, indeed, to fuch a degree is every ex- 
 ertion of induftry that might contribute to fur- 
 iiifh the necelTaries of life^ relaxed here, that we 
 fhould fcarcely have found food in this diftri(fl, 
 if we had not taken the precaution to bring with 
 us eggs and bread* 
 
 We then croifed a plain covered with date- 
 trees ; but foon after, regaining the mountains, 
 entered the territory of Ihn AklaUy where th^ 
 finds, though lefs ftony, appeared to be equally 
 ill-cqltivated. The terrace walls were general- 
 ly in a burfting, broken condition. This defola- 
 tion is the confequeQ.ce of a war between the I- 
 
IN AH AB I A, i^C. 
 
 mam of Sana, and the independent Schiech of the 
 family of Aklan, to whom this diftrid: appertains« 
 But, in the iflue of the war, the Schiech was o- 
 bliged to acknowledge the fovereign authori- 
 ty of the In^am^ and now no longer maintains 
 troops. 
 
 Proceeding on our way to Tehama, we few fe- 
 veral villages, and croffed fome fmall rivers. We 
 pafled the night in a detached coffee-hut : and 
 even the mafier of it left us by night, and retir- 
 ed to a neighbouring village. When alone, we 
 could not help congratulating one another, oa 
 being thus far returned in fafety from a journey 
 among thofe Arabian mountains, which Vv^ould 
 not have been without danger,, even in the beft 
 regulated flates in Europe, 
 
 On the 4th of April, we travelled along bad 
 roads, among hills, and croffed feveral times over 
 the Wadi Suradsji, a confiderably large and ra- 
 pid river, even at that time, although no rain had 
 fallen for ^ long while. We faw no village nea^-^ 
 but feveral coffee-huts. 
 
 In this defart traäi, upon the confines of the 
 Tehama, Mr Forfkal was much rejoiced to dif- 
 cover the tree which affords the balm of Mecca, 
 The plant which he found was pretty large, arid 
 in flower. Here was nothing to hinder my friend 
 from examining, and making'a defcription of it^ 
 This tree grows in many places through Yemen* 
 05 2 Bu 
 
^0%. niebuhr's travels 
 
 But the inhabitants, who call it u!^bu Scham, the 
 fweet fniqlling tree, know no other ufe for it 
 but to perfume their apartments, by burning the 
 wood. Many branches of the fpecimen which 
 Vv^e found, had been torn off for this purpofe. 
 
 Continuing our journey, we palTed through 
 feveral fmall rivers, which appeared all to empty 
 themfelves into one large river. To the fouth^ 
 we had a view of a large chain of mountains ; 
 but the only habitations that we faw in this hil- 
 ly region, were a few inns. We came at length 
 to a large village, containing many Kuhbets, and 
 at no great diftance from ifej, where v/e arrived 
 this evening. 
 
 The city of Hws, twelve miles diilant from 
 Tees, and fituate in the Tehama, is fmall and ill- 
 built. However, it is the capital of the diftrid^ 
 and the feat of a Dola, who occupies a fmali 
 fortrefs. A confic^erable quantity of earthen- 
 ware is manufactured here, efpecially coarfe drink- 
 ing cups. This diilrid is but of narrow extent^ 
 being bounded on one fide by Zebid, and on the 
 other, by the territories of the Schiech of Ibn 
 Aldan. 
 
 Chab., 
 
SN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 3®9 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Return to Beit el Fakih 
 
 We left Hoes on the 5th of April, and, after 
 pafling feveral villages and cofFee-huts, arrive4 
 on the fame evening at Zebid. We paffed with- 
 out wetting our feet, over the river Suradsji^ 
 which we had lately feen fo large among the 
 hills. But as we proceeded through the beauti- 
 ful and cultivated plains which it watered, we 
 perceived both the caufe of its diminution, ^nd 
 the effeds which it produced. 
 
 Our way from Zebid to Beit el Fakih was the 
 fame that I have already defcribed. We arrived 
 at the latter city on the 6th of April. 
 
 Upon leaving the mountains, we felt the heat 
 cxcefiive. We halted to reft ourfelves at an inn 
 in a village between Hoes and Zebid. Ther^ 
 we were refrefhed by an agreeable breeze, al- 
 though all was calm and torrid without, for the 
 walls were built ofloofe ftones, the many chinks, 
 among which, naturally admitted a current of 
 air. We found this coolnefs a great refrefhment 
 amidft the burning heat which pa*evailed all a- 
 round. I was fo imprudent as to fit down on 
 the ground, without wrapping myfelf in my large 
 
 clgaks 
 
310 NipBUHR's TRAVJEMS 
 
 cloak,and being faint, from the heat and the fatigue^ 
 of my journey, I feil afleep. My imprudence 
 coft me dear ; I was in a violent fever before we 
 reached Zebid, which continuing after my re- 
 turn to Beit el Fakih, rendered me unable to take 
 any fatigue. 
 
 On our arrival in this city, upoo the 6th of 
 April, we found Mr Von Haven likewife indif- 
 pofed. He had been attacked with a fcurvy, and 
 was weary of the mode of life to which we wer^ 
 here confined. We had long wanted wine and 
 brandy ^ we were diffuaded from coffee, as being, 
 of a heating quality. Kifcher, although eileem- 
 ed wholefome, is but an infipid drink; and 
 through all Tehama^ the water is very bad. Our 
 cook could prepare us no fach iimple difhes of 
 food as thofe ufed by the Arabs, a nation diftin- 
 guiihed fjr temperance. Upon this account, 
 w^e daily ate'animal food, although our friends, 
 who knew the climate better, had advifed us to 
 abfiain from it. Our perfifting in this, doubtlefs^ 
 greatly injured our health, and was, in a particu- 
 lar manner hurtful to Mr Von Haven, who, ex- 
 cept to lit down at table, never rofe from his fo- 
 pha. 
 
 The firft day of Bairam happened this year to 
 
 be the 14th of April. On this day the Dola 
 
 proceeded out of the city with a multitude of at- 
 
 tcndantfj. 
 
IN ARABIA^ l^C, qii 
 
 tendants, to perform prayers in a large inclofecl 
 fquare area, in the open air. This feftival lafts 
 three days, during which the Arabs indulge in 
 feftive amufements, and begin no piece of work^ 
 nor enter upon any journey. 
 
 On the 17th of April, we faw an inflance at 
 Beit el Fakih, of the coolnefs of temper, and 
 firmnefs of mind, by which the Arab charader 
 is diftinguiihed. The fouthern end of a houf^ 
 caught fire ; and, as the wind blew ftrong from 
 the fouth, a great part of the city was foon burnt 
 down. The inhabitants, however, retained their 
 ufual tranquillity, No cries nor complaints were 
 heard in the ftreets^ and when addrelTed with ex- 
 preffionsofcondolence,upon their misfortune, they 
 w^ould caimy reply ; " It is the will of God,'' 
 We occupied a houfe with ftone walls, in that 
 part of the town which was fpared by the 
 flames ; we went upon the roof, and faw the 
 roofs of the other houfes crowded with people, 
 who were beholding the conflagration with the 
 utmoft indiflerence. A poor fcholar, who ufed 
 often to viflt us, came, after removing his eifed:^ 
 to a place of fecurity, to fee us, and^ with an air 
 of indiflerence, marked the inftant when the 
 flames reached his own houfe. When fuch an 
 accident happens, indeed, an Arab does not lofe 
 much ; as the fire approaches, he removes his 
 
 goods, 
 
31^ Nieeuhr's travels 
 
 goods, and takes refuge, either in a different 
 quarter of the city, or in the open country. He 
 thus lofes nothing but his paltry hut, which is 
 rebuilt eafily, and at a fmall expence. 
 
 SECTION 
 
IN ARABIA, UC6 
 
 3^3 
 
 SECTION XL 
 
 JOURNEY FROM BEIT EL FAKIH TO MOKHA* 
 
 Chap L 
 
 Route to Mokhd^ 
 
 A SSO ON as Mr Von Haven and I were faffi= 
 clently recovered to bear the fatigues of travellings 
 it was refolved, that our whole party Ihould 
 leave Beit el Fakih* We fet out, therefore, on 
 the 2oth of April, and took the road to Zebid? 
 where I had already been* 
 
 In Tehama, it has been obferved, people ge- 
 nerally travel by night, rather than in the day^ 
 But if we had regulated our joUrnies in this 
 manner, Mr Forfkal could not have continued 
 to examine and colled plants, nor could I have 
 furveyed the face of the country. He and 
 
 Vol. L R r theref ores' 
 
314 niebuhr's travels 
 
 therefore, refolved to proceed forward by day^ 
 taking the owner of our alTes to attend us, and to 
 lea\"e the reß: of our party, with the fervants and 
 the baggage, to come up by rhghc. 
 
 In confeqiience of this arrangement, we fet out 
 alone next morning, and paßed through the 
 plains contiguous to the river 7.ebid, and by th^ 
 canals which are fupplied from it. This beauti- 
 ful tracl of country is about two miles in breadth, 
 I'he peafants were bufy cultivating the fields, 
 and railing earthen dykes about them, to retain 
 the w^ater for a certain time, after which it would 
 be conveyed into other fields, to water and ferti- 
 lize them in like manner. From thefe fields, to 
 Mokha, hardly any villages are to be feen. I'he 
 v^hole intervening country is dry, fandy, ani 
 covered with that coarfe fpecies of grafs witli 
 v^hich the houfes are thatched here. On thefe 
 fandy plains, the heat is exceilive : We were o- 
 vexjoyed whenever we could fhelter ourfelves for 
 a little, in any paltry coffee-hut.. 
 
 On the fecond and third days of our journey^ 
 we fäw nothing hut coffee-huts, till v/e, at lad, 
 arrived in the large village of Maufihid, We 
 were there alarmed v/ith an account of a ikir- 
 niiilninc? war betv/een two famjiies, in which a 
 man bad been killed on the day preceding. But 
 they allured us, that fuch private quarrels never 
 interrupt the public tranquillity. When an A- 
 
 rab 
 
IN ARABIA, UcJ 315 
 
 rdh happens to be killed, his fcimily may com., 
 promiie with the murderer for a fum of money? 
 or may demand of the magiftrate to put him to 
 death, or, if unwilling to receive fatisfa^Lion in 
 either of this ways, may declare a refolution cf 
 taking vengeance themfelves upon the perfon of 
 the affailins, or upon his relations. A peafant cf 
 Maulchid had been flain fome years before, by 
 a man belonging to another village ; and the fa- 
 mily of the deceafed had determined to intlid 
 perfonal vengeance. Unfortunately, the man 
 who had been nevvly Hain in the contell was of 
 the fame family with him w^hofe death had giv- 
 en rife to it, fo that there w^ere now tvvo deaths 
 to revenge in a fet combat. Next day \\t met 
 in. a coiFee-hut, a maa belonging to the viclori- 
 ous party, w^ho was armed with a large club, and 
 told us, that he was eager to fight, as it was an 
 aPfair of honour. The only thing that he re- 
 gretted, was, that his family was to fuffer for the 
 death of tv.'o perfons in whofe life they had no, 
 fort of intereil. f ff). 
 
 In that fame village, a Sub-Dola rendes, with 
 a few foldiers from the troops, of the Dola of 
 Hoes. Here, as at Zebid, a tax was demanded 
 for each cf our camels, from v. hicii I prefume, 
 that thefe duties are to be paid upon entering 
 the territöri^ under the jurifdiclion of each fe- 
 parate Dcia, By our agreement with thecame!- 
 
3x6 niibuhr's travels 
 
 driver, he was obliged to difcharge all demands 
 of this nature. But he contrived to fhift this 
 payment, by entering into a fecret underftanding 
 with the officers who were to receive it. They 
 told us, that we mull either pay it ourfelves, or 
 fufFer them to open and infped our baggage. 
 However, on our threatening to complain to the 
 judge of the place, they deßfted from their in- 
 folent pretenfions. Thus the eftablifhment of 
 cuftoms, and cuftom-houfe officers, is every where 
 a fource of endlefs villanies and vexations. 
 
 We paffed through two other villages, and fe- 
 veral more coffee-huts. We faw, near the road, 
 a falt-w^ork, from which fait is carried to the 
 mountains, upon camels. The whole of this way 
 is over fands, ^ • 
 
 Chap. IL . 
 
 Arrival at Mokhsi, 
 
 After a difagreeable enough journey from Beit 
 el Fakih, we entered this city, on the 23d of A- 
 pril. All who travel by land to Mokha, are o- 
 bliged to enter by the fame gate ; and Europeans 
 are under the humiliating neceffity of alighting 
 from their affes, and proceeding to their lodgings 
 
IN ARABIA, Wc. 
 
 3^7 
 
 •n foot. We therefore alighted, while our bag- 
 gage was infpeded. Thofe who examined that, 
 afked neither ©ur names nor our paflports, but 
 direded us to a Kan, where Turks lodge, and 
 where, as they fuppofed, we might poiTibly find 
 fome of our countrymen. 
 
 At the time of our arrival, there was an Eng- 
 lilh merchant from Bombay, in the city. We 
 were unwilling to addrefs ourfeives to him, led 
 he might think us vagrants of fufpicious charac- 
 ter. Befides, we had letters of recommendation 
 from our friends at Jidda, Loheia, and Beit el 
 Fakih, to the Dola, to the Engliih interpreter, a 
 Banian in great credit, and to a merchant of the 
 city, whofe name was Seid Salek. Having ob- 
 feved, that the Muffulmans treated thofe Pagans 
 from India, commonly in a very contemptuous 
 manner, we were in no hafte to begin an acquain- 
 tance with the Banian, whom we found after- 
 wards to be a very worthy man. We were al- 
 ready acquainted with Seid Salek' s fon Ifmaei, 
 who had been our companion in the pafiage from 
 Jidda to Loheia, and had made advances to ob- 
 tain our friendfhip. This Ifmael, beßdes, had 
 early prepoffelTed us in his favour, by fpealdng 
 Dutch tolerably well. We unluckily, there^ 
 fore, addrelTed ourfeives to him in preference to 
 every other perfon. 
 
 Theft 
 
31^ ' NIEBÜHR.'S TP.AVELa 
 
 Tlieie two, the father and fon, were-accuftom-. 
 ed to attach themfelves to ftrangers with dif- 
 honefc views ; and the fon had iludied fome of 
 the languages ef Europe, in order that he might 
 be the better able to accomplifh his fcnavifli pur- 
 pofes. They had enticed a Dutch veflel from 
 Batavia to Mokha, the mafcer of which falling 
 without refource, into their hands, was cruelly 
 duped and plundered. By their intrigues, they 
 had kept every other merchant at a diftance , 
 fo that,- vvith refped to the fale of the cargo, he 
 was abfolutely at their mercy. They had hop*, 
 ei to make their gain of us, in the fame man- 
 ner ; and, when they faw their hopes of this 
 friiilrated, laboured, out of fpite, to do us every 
 ill office in their power. 
 
 We paid our firil vifit to Ifmael, He receiv- 
 ed us feemingly with great kindnefs, treated us 
 with punch, and invited a renegado from India^ 
 who was fettled, as a merchant, at Mokha, to 
 keep us company. This renegado v/as a deep 
 drinker, and endeavoured, but without faccefs? 
 to make us drunk. Ifmael advifed us to refume 
 our European drefs, and not to difcover our 
 knowledge of Arabic, left we üiould be taken 
 for renegadoes. He endeavoured to diiTuade us 
 from our intended journey to Sana ; telling us^ 
 that thofe highlanders were a favage, inhofpi, 
 tMbh race, and the Imam treated all ilrangers 
 
IK AP.ABIA, b^C. 
 
 Vvho had the misfortune not to be Mufulmans, 
 in the moil abufive manner. He was ab'b care- 
 ful to prepoiTefs us againft the people of Mokha, 
 who, by his account^ entertained inveterate ha- 
 tred againfl: Europeans ; but encouraged us, bv 
 offering the powerful prote6Lion of his father, 
 to ward off every danger or mortification, that 
 we might have to fear. In fliort, his whole 
 converfation was of fuch a nature, that I could 
 not help perceiving from it, that travellers muff 
 be grofsly impofed upon, whenever they trud 
 credulouily to the relations they receive from, 
 the inhabitants of the country through which 
 they travel. Had we not known Arabic, we 
 might have returned into Europe with very 
 falfe impreilions of every thing in Arabia. 
 
 The only piece of fervice that this man did 
 us, was, in immediately hiring for us a houie 
 that vvas large enough to lodge us all. 
 
 Chap. III. 
 
 ^ . Difagreeahle incidents at Mehla. 
 
 -i^ioM what happened tons fird, after our ar^ 
 rival in this city, v/e found reafon to fufpcc^ 
 that Ifmael had fecretly inftigated the under- 
 ofHcerG of the culloms to harrafs and opprefs us, 
 
 in 
 
3^0 niebühr's travels 
 
 in order that we might thus be forced to thröW 
 ourfelves into a blind and implicit dependence 
 upon him. Our baggage was carried ftraight 
 to the cuftom-houfe, where was the Dola in 
 perfon. We begged, that thofe articles, which 
 we needed for immediate ufe, might firft be in- 
 fpedled : but the officers would begin with ex- 
 amining our chefts of natural curiofities, which 
 we had fent by fea from Loheya, and which had 
 been kept here unopened, ever fince the arrival 
 of the veffel by which they had been brought. 
 In one of the chefts v/ere fifhes from the Arabic 
 gulph, preferved in fpirit of wine, and inclofed 
 in a fmall barrel. We begged the officers of 
 the cuftoms not to open the barrel ; for that the 
 iidies fmelled difagreeably. They, however, 
 not only opened it, but fearched it with a point- 
 ed inftrument of iron, and at length emptied it 
 entirely of the contents. The Arabs, who have 
 a violent averfion to ftrong liquors, were much 
 prepoffelTed againft us, when they felt the fmell 
 of the fpirituous liquor ; and were no lefs dif- 
 pleafed to find the fcetor of the dead fifhes fpread 
 through the whole cuftom-houfe. 
 
 We infilled that they fiiould, at leafi, let us 
 have our beds. But, without liftening to our re-, 
 queft, they continued to tofs over and examine 
 our chefts, which contained fpecimens of ftiells, 
 at the rifk of breaking them. The Arabs could 
 
 not 
 
IN ARABIA, bV, 
 
 / 321 
 
 not comprehend, how a man of fenfe could col- 
 ie6l füch trifles, without fome intereiled views- 
 and they accordingly accufed us of intending to 
 abufe the Dola, by producing only articles of 
 trifling value, to amufe his people, while we con- 
 cealed our more precious eiFecls. 
 
 At laß:, appeared a veifel in which Mr Forikal 
 had preferved fome ferpents in fpirit of wine. 
 At light of this, the Arabs were terrified. A 
 perfon, who was fervant to the Dola, obferved, 
 that thofe Franks had come hither to poifon the 
 Mufulmans, and that it was in order to their 
 fuccefs in this, that one of them pretended to 
 be a phyfician. The Dola, who was a mild 
 old man, and till now did not feem to have con- 
 ceiyed any prejudice agaioft us,, became fiidden- 
 iy in a pafiion when this idea was fuggeiled, and 
 fwore, by God, that we fnouki not remain a 
 lingle night in the city. Tl^ie reader will readi- 
 ly conceive, how the infolence of the people of 
 the cufloin-houle, and of the attending mob, 
 would naturally rife upon this. The cuilom- 
 houfe .was abruptly fhut, and we couid obtaui 
 none our goods from it. 
 
 While we were in the cuftorn-houfe, a fer- 
 vant came to tell us, that our books and other 
 hings had been all thrown oat of the windows 
 of the houfe which we had hired, and the door 
 Vol. I. . Sf ' iliii? 
 
322 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 fliut againfl us. We went to fee what might 
 be the reafon of that outrage, but could find 
 neither Ifmael nor his father. One of the citi- 
 zens, who was a friend of Ifmael's, attacked us 
 with abulive language. No perfön would afford 
 us lodgings ; but every one looked upon us as 
 V igrants who would inftantly be driven out of 
 the city in difgrace. At length, one of the citi- 
 zens exprelTed himfelf willing to receive us into 
 his houfe, if he were fure, that government 
 would not puniÜi him for it. We led him to 
 the Cadi, who alTured him, that he Ihould rilk 
 nothing by lodging us. In Turkey, the Cadies 
 are reputed very corrupt and felfifh : but in 
 Yemen, we found them perfons of great worth 
 and integrity, earneft to do prompt and candid 
 juftice. The Englifh m.erchant whom I men- 
 tioned above was Mr Francis Scott, He had 
 heard of our difficulties and perplexity ; and, 
 although we had not yet vifited him, gave us an 
 invitation to dinner^ which v/e accepted with 
 the greateft pleafure. He exprefied a warm de- 
 iire to ferve us ; and we now perceived, how 
 foolifirily we had adled in not applying, at firft^ 
 to him and his Banian interpreter. However^ 
 we dürft not break off abruptly, with Ifmael 
 and his father. 
 
 When we could not obtain any of our things 
 from the cuitpm-houfe, Ifmael advifed us to of- 
 fer 
 
IN ARABIA, ^r. 
 
 3^3 
 
 fer the Dola a prefent of fifty ducats ; and hint- 
 ed that he fhould be the bearer of the prefent, 
 for that the Dola would not condefcend to fpeak 
 with Chriftians. We had no intention of mak- 
 ing fo large a prefent, ftill lefs of intruftirig him 
 with it. But, after various reflexions, we at 
 lafl: refolved to facrifice thofe fifty ducats upon 
 the occafion ; and it was agreed, that I fiiould 
 wait upon the Dola w^ith this prefent, next day. 
 On my way, however, I learned, that the Dola 
 having been exercifing his troops, had received 
 a wound in the foot. Upon receiving this in- 
 formation, I returned home ; hoping that our 
 ,phyfician would be fent for, and that we might 
 thus avoid the expence of the prefent. 
 
 But, Mr Cramer was not called by the 
 Dola, and our effeds ftill remained at the cuf- 
 tom-houfe, we underftood, that a confiderable 
 prefent was expected from us. Mr Forlkal had 
 hitherto been always refufed admiflion by the 
 fervants of t\m Dola, upon pretence, that their 
 mafler would not treat with us otherwife, than 
 through the medium of Ifmael and his father ; 
 yet, he now undertook to make a new attempt 
 to obtain an audience. When he had explained 
 the purpofe of his vifit, he was admitted, and fo 
 gracioufly received, that the Dola kindly chid 
 him for not applying diredlly to himfelf at the 
 firft. Next day, he, irr his turn, fent us a pre- 
 S f 2 k nt- 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 fent of four lambs, and two fmall bags of rice ; 
 and at the fame time gave orders, that our efFeds 
 fliould be delivered to us,, without being more- 
 particularly examined. 
 
 Crap. 1¥. 
 
 Qur ßay at Mokha continued aud the death of Mr Vö,% 
 Haven, 
 
 The Dola, when he received his wound, had 
 been advifed by the principal perfons about 
 him, to fend for the European phyfician. But 
 he was afraid, that Mr Cramer might, in re- 
 venge for the ill treatment which we had fufFer- 
 ed, adminifter to him improper medicines, or 
 might apply heating drugs, which the Arabs 
 think very dangerous. But the Cadi reprefent- 
 ed to him, that no perfon had yet complained of 
 us ; and that it M^as nowife Itrange, that a phy- 
 lician fhould have dead ferpents in his polTeßion, 
 thefe being ufed as ingredients in fome medical 
 compofitions. The Europeans, he farther told 
 him, ought not to be defpifed or flighted for col- 
 leäiing iheils or infedis of v;hich the Arabs- knew^ 
 not the ufe. 
 
 Thefe reprefentations, and the alarming ftate 
 of the wound, which was becoming worfe, in- 
 
 the 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C* 
 
 3^5 
 
 tlie hands of four or five empirics, induced the 
 Dola to fend, on the 4th of May, to enquire 
 whether we were ftill angry with him, or if our 
 phyfician would undertake to cure him. We 
 were all overjoyed to hear that the prejudices 
 which the governor had conceived againft us 
 were fo perfedly removed ; and Mr Cramer 
 gladly offered his fervices. No fooner had ou^-' 
 anfwer heen carried to the Dola, than he fent 
 one of his fervants with a mule for Mr Gramer« 
 Europeans, when they pafs before the Dola's 
 palace, are ufaally obliged to alight and walk, 
 if they happen to be mounted : but, to evince to 
 the people the entire reconciliation that had ta- 
 ken place between the Dola and us, Mr Cramer 
 was permitted to pafs through this forbidden 
 ground, and even to enter the court of the palace 
 without difmounting. 
 
 We had, after this, frequent opportunities of 
 feeing the Bola, and teftifying our friendiliip to 
 him. Mr Fornial one day related to him, how 
 we had been infiilted and turned out by the 
 owner of oar firft lodging. The Dola promifed 
 him fatisfaclion, and made the perfon of whom 
 he complained, be caft, that very night, into 
 prifon. Ifmael, enraged to fee his friend punifh- 
 ed for an acl of infolence v/hich he himfelf had 
 prompted, threatened us with a mob, by whicli 
 we might be torn in pieces, Mr I'brtkal, al- 
 though 
 
326 niebuhr's travels 
 
 though regardlefs of his threats, waited oil the 
 Dola, and entreated him to liberate the prifoner, 
 and only recommend to him, to be more civi 
 to ftrangers in future. 
 
 This change in our fituation, rendered Mok- 
 ha much lefs unpleafant to us than it had been 
 at firft. But difeafe began now to fall feverelj 
 upon us ; I had been attacked, foon after our ar- 
 rival here, with a violent dyfentery, from which, 
 however, I recovered, after fifteen days ilL 
 nefs. Mr Von Haven, who had been ill at Beit 
 el Fakih, became much worfe here. After walk- 
 ing out in the cool of the evening, he was tole- 
 rably w^ell through the night ; but the heats of 
 the day he was quite unable to bear. At laft, - 
 he ventured to ly for feveral nights fucceflively, 
 upon the roof of the houfe, in the open air, and 
 ■with his face uncovered. On the night of the 
 24th of May, he caught cold, and was fo ill in 
 the morning, that it was necelTary for two ler- 
 vants to carry him down into his apartment. 
 His fever was become doubly violent, and he 
 was delirious by the evening. He then 
 funk into a deep letliargy, and expired in the 
 night. 
 
 He had paid more attention than any other of 
 us, to oriental literature. The public have loH, 
 by his death, fome- very interefting difcoveries, 
 
 and 
 
I 
 
 IN ARABIA, 327 
 
 and lome curious colledions of this fort, which 
 he had made. 
 
 The cuftom of interring the dead in a coffin, is 
 unknown in Arabia* We had one made, however, 
 for our deceafed friend, in order to preferve his 
 remains from any accident. The Captain of an 
 Englifli fhip lent us fix of his failors to bear the 
 body to the European burying place. All the 
 Englifh in Mokha attended at the funeral ; and 
 the obfequies were performed with more decen- 
 cy, and with lefs interruption, than thofe of a 
 Conful at Cairo, which were difturbed by the 
 crowding of the people to witnefs the folemni- 
 ty, and by the robbery of the audacious Bedouins, 
 On this occafion, the Arabs of Yemen fhewed 
 themfelves reafonable and humane. 
 
 Chap. V- 
 
 We leave Mokha. 
 
 Aft£R the death of Mr Von Haven, we began 
 
 to think ferioufly of leaving Mokha, and making 
 
 a tour into the interior parts of Yemen. We 
 
 were divided in opinion, with regard to the plaa 
 
 upoi? 
 
niebuhr's teavrls 
 
 upon which we ought to regulate our fubfequent 
 proceedings ; fome being difpofed to remain a- 
 nother year in Arabia, while the reft v»^ere deii- 
 rous of returning immediately to Europe. But 
 we all agreed to fet out without farther delay^ 
 upon our journey to Sana. 
 
 Mr Forfival and I had made feveral excurfions 
 in a very ßoiple guife, and almoft without atten- 
 dants. But as our whole party were now to tra- 
 vel all together, v/e could not well go without a 
 certain train to accompany us. We could not 
 however^ travel in this ftyle without permiffion 
 from the Dola, which v/ould not be eaiily obtain- 
 ed ; as it could not be thought, that he would 
 willingly fuffer his phyücian to leave him before 
 his vround were healed. We, neverthelefs, ven- 
 tured to make the requeft : but the Doja refufed 
 lis upon a fair pretext. He told us, that he muft 
 firft write to Sana, to know whether the Imam 
 would receive us, and that we could not leave 
 Mokha till the Imam had returned an anfwer. 
 
 'When thus refuied permiülon to proceed to 
 Sana, we begged that vv^e might, at leaft, be ai- 
 pwed to remove to Taoes, in the mean time, for 
 the lake of our health. Even this v/as refufed us. 
 We then propofcd to the Dola, to leave our phy- 
 fician behind. But the Arabs feared, that the 
 pain of fepaiation from bis friends, migbt fecret- 
 
m ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 ly diftrefs Mr Cramer, fo as to render him more 
 negligent of his patient's cure. 
 
 When we complained of tliefe refcraints to 
 the principal men of the city, they obferved, that 
 it was hard to conceive what rendered us fo im- 
 patient to depart ; for that by going to the High- 
 lands, we fliould only endanger our health more, 
 as thofe who went thither from the burning fands 
 of Tehama, were commonly attacked with a vio- 
 lent fever, immediately upon their arrival. 
 
 At length, when we were much at a lofs how 
 to proceed, a furgical empiric luckily came in, 
 to free us from our perplexity. He proniifed to 
 cure the Dola's wound within eight days ; and 
 our phyfician was immediately difmifled. We, 
 at the fame time, obtained permilfion to fet out 
 for Taoes, and were favoured with a letter of re- 
 commendation to the Dola of that city. Mr 
 Cramer received for his fee, a mule with a fad- 
 die and bridle, and India fcuff for a fuit of clothes 
 in the Arab falhion. As an additiqnal proof of 
 his friendßiip, the Dola fent one of his fervants 
 to attend us. We fnould have been well pleaf- 
 ed to excufe this inftance of his attention ; for 
 his fervant v,^as- only a fpy, under a more honour- 
 able name, to watch over our conduct, and hin- 
 der us from going farther tnan Taoes. 
 
 Not wifning to run any rifk of loiing our rea- 
 dy money, we put it all into the hands of the 
 
 Vol. L T t Engliüi 
 
33© niebuhr's travels 
 
 Engliüi interpreter, who gave us bills upon his 
 countrymen,, the Banians at TacEs and Sana. 
 This was the firll time we could get bills of ex- 
 change in the Eaft. 
 
 SECTION 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc. 
 
 39® 
 
 SECTION XIL 
 
 JOURNEY FROM MOKHA TO TAOESe 
 
 Chap, I. 
 
 Our Progrefs to Ta^s. j 
 
 Leaving Mokha with pleafure, as our ftay in 
 it had been not a little difagreeable, we proceed- 
 ed, on the 9th of June, through a dry and defart 
 country, and, after advancing four miles, reached 
 Mufuy a village fituate juft upon the confines of 
 the Highlands. This village is known to the 
 Europeans, who fometimes come hither in par-^ 
 ties for pleafure. But the buildings are wretch- 
 ed, and the heat is as oppreffive here as at Mok- 
 ha. The water, is, however, good, and the rich- 
 er inhabitants of Mokha fend hither for it ; as 
 that in the wells immediately around the city is 
 very bad. 
 
 T t 2 Next 
 
33^ 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Next day we travelled along the channel of a 
 large river, which, in the rainy feafon, difem- 
 bogues itfelf into the fea, near Mokha ; but is 
 commonly loft, at no great diftance from its head^ 
 in the fands of Tehama. We palTed through fe- 
 veral villages ; and near the laft ofthefe, remark- 
 ed a fmall houfe, at which duties are paid for all 
 goods fent to the independent country of Jafa : 
 goods paffing into the ftates of the Imam pay no 
 fuch duties. 
 
 I ihali hereafter have occafton to fpeak of 
 Schiech ScbcBdeli, the famous faint of Mokha. 
 We happened to meet with one of his defcend- 
 ents, a good-natured ideot. Some young perfons 
 in our party addreßed him, and bandied jokes 
 aid raillery with him. They did not, indeed, 
 abufe him, but as little did they fliew him re- 
 fped'. They called him Schiech, in regard to his 
 ' birth, but paid him no other honour. In this 
 inftance, the Arabs difcover more good fenfe than 
 the Turks, and efpecially than the Egyptians, 
 who treat all ideots as Schiechs, honour them 
 through life, and regard them as faints after their 
 death. 
 
 In the hilly country, the roads are too bad for 
 travelling by night. We faw, as we proceeded^ 
 a large village, and near it, the fertile hills of 
 Hammara, which belong to Schiech Ibn Aklan ; 
 but the inhabitants of the village are not fubjed 
 
 to 
 
IN ARABIA, er 
 
 to his authority. They had lately flaia two men, 
 and when the Schiech fent troops to chaftife 
 them, they retreated to the fummits of the hills. 
 We happened, fortunately, to enter one of the 
 large inns called by the Arabians, Mattrach ; 
 for, early in the afternoon, a violent ftorm arofe^ 
 and fuch a quantity of rain fell, that all the high- 
 ways were flooded, and it became impoilible for 
 us to continue our journey. 
 
 On the 1 2th of June, after pafling through fe- 
 veral villages, and croffing fome fertile fields, we 
 arrived at Borebat, a town ten miles diftant from 
 Mokha. It is the capital of the territories of 
 Schiech Ibn Aldan, who refides here. Its iitu- 
 ation on the fummit of a hill, renders it natural- 
 ly ftrong. At the foot of the hill Hands a town, 
 the public prifon in which is faid to be the moii 
 difmal in Yemen. Before the door of the pri-- 
 fon in Dorebat, we faw^ perfons who had been 
 guilly only of very trivial faults, confined, a num- 
 ber of them together, by one chain, in the open 
 air. Near them Hood a guard of foldiers of the 
 Imam's, whom the Schiech is obliged to main- 
 tain. 
 
 Continuing our journey from Dorebat, we found 
 on our way, a number of fine villages, and many 
 coffee huts, and Madsjils, or refervoirs for water, 
 in a columnar form. A violent fi:orm again com-- 
 pelled us to halt. Next day we faw from a hill, 
 
 the 
 
334 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 the caftle of Taoes, ftill at a diftance. Early oft 
 the 13th we reached the city. 
 
 Immediately after oar arrival, we fent out let" 
 ter from the Dola at Mokha, to the Dola of Taoes, 
 who ftraightway required us to wait upon him 
 at his houfe. He feemed to be in a very good 
 humour, and made us an offer of Kifcher^ pipes, 
 and Kaad, (the buds of a certain tree which the 
 Arabs chew, as the Indians do Betel;) but we 
 did not reliih this drug. He related to us, how 
 that a report had been fpread at Taces, of our 
 having brought feveral chefls full of ferpents to 
 Mokha. He made us be conduced into a houfe 
 the proprietor of which he had lately imprifon- 
 ed ; and fent us, in a prefent, two lambs, with a 
 fmali quantity of meal. We, in our turn, offer- 
 ed him a piece cf India fluff. 
 
 Next day, we delivered our other letters of 
 recommendation from our friends at Mokha : of 
 thofe, one was addreffed to Bafaateh, the iiril fe- 
 cretary ; another to the fteward of the houfehold,- 
 Achmed ; a third to one Sejicl, a man of diflinc- 
 lion ; and a fourth to a Eanian. We were well 
 received, every where. The Dola of Mokha^s 
 ferva!\t had the prefumption to attend us on all 
 ?)ur vißts, and impofed his company upon us, in 
 like manner, v/hen we received the vifits of 
 others. We could not imagine whether this 
 
 were 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc. 
 
 were done out of vanity, or in order to keep a 
 llri6l eye on all our motions. 
 
 We found the temperature of this country to 
 agree entirely with our conftitutions. Inllead 
 of the oppreffive heats under which w^e had faint- 
 ed at Mokha, we had here, almoft every even- 
 iag, refrelhing rains. 
 
 Chap. II. 
 
 0/ the City of Taoss. 
 
 This city (lands at the foot of the fertile hill 
 of Sabber. It is encompaffed with a wall, be- 
 tween fixteen and thirty feet thick, and flanked 
 with feveral towers. The fortrefs of Kahhre 
 flands in the circuit of the wall : its walls are 
 faced with burnt bricks, but, within, confift of 
 bricks, which, inilcad of being burnt, have been 
 only dried in the fun. 
 
 This city has only two gates ; and each of 
 thefe is after the Arabic faüiion, fortified with 
 three towers. Only two of them are in a condi- 
 tion to bear cannons. The garrifon ccnßfted at 
 this time of fix hundred men. Thefe works ]y 
 fo under the command of the neighbouring 
 heights, that they would afford no defence againfl 
 
 any 
 
3SÖ 
 
 NIEBUHPv's TPvAVELS 
 
 I 
 
 any but an army of Arabs v^ho are ftrangers^ 
 in a manner, to the life of artillery. 
 
 The faint who has been alTumed as the patron 
 of the city of Ta^es, is the famous Ifmael Mulh 
 who, according to tradition, was once king of 
 this country. His remains are buried in 
 niofque which bears his name. But none have 
 been permitted to approach his tomb, fince once 
 that the faint thought proper to perform a 
 miracle v/hich gave diifatisfa^lion to the rulers. 
 This marvellous event was related to us witli 
 the following circomftances : Two beggars had 
 afl^ed charity from the Do! a of Taoes ; but on- 
 ly one of thefe had tailed of his bounty. The 
 other went, upon this, to the tomb of Ifmael 
 Mullc, to im.plore his aid. Ifmael, who, when 
 alive, had been very charitable, ftretched his 
 hand out of the tomb , and gave the beggar a 
 letter, containing an order on the Dola to pay 
 the beggar an hundred crowns. Upon examin- 
 ing this order, with the greateft care, it was 
 found that Ifmael Mulk had written it with his 
 own hand, and fealed it with his feal. The go-^ 
 vernor could not refufe payment ; but, to avoid 
 all fubfequent trouble from fuch bills of ex- 
 change, he had a wall built, inclofing the tomb. 
 
 Near the mofque of Ifmael Mulk is a garden^ 
 which was poiTelfed by Ifchia his foUo In it there 
 was fhewn to me a large bafon, and a hydraulic 
 
 machine? 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 337 
 
 Hiachine, which in its time mutt have been an 
 ornament of no fmall confequence ; but all is 
 now in a ftate of decay, and almoft ruinous. 
 
 In the fame city^ and in its neighbourhood, 
 are many deferted and ruinous mofques ; one of 
 them, in a ftyle of architedure unufual in this 
 country, fhould feera to have been built by lorae 
 Turkifh Pacha. The devout founders of thefc 
 niofques, if they intended thereby to tranfmit 
 their memory to pofterity, have failed of their 
 purpofe. Their names have been forgotten, as 
 the mofques have funk into ruins. 
 
 The laft Lords of Taoes have made a more 
 judicious choice of buildings to diftinguifh them„ 
 felves by. They have ereded noble palaces 
 for themfelves and their poflerity, and were con- 
 tent with a fmRll Kubbet for their oratory and 
 burial-place : Thus have they fpared the lands 
 which muft otherwife have been appropriated to 
 the maintenance of the clergy of an ufelefs mofque : 
 Their palaces are ft ill ftanding, and are the 
 ornaments of the city, which indeed does not 
 pofiefs many other fine buildings. Since the laft 
 war, many of the houfes have remained ruinous, 
 and fome of the fquares have even been convert- 
 ed into fields and meadows. 
 
 The ruins of two ancient cities, are ftUl to be 
 feen in th^ neighbourhood of Taoes. One of 
 them is Thobad, which is fituate near Mount 
 
 Vol. I. U u Sabber 
 
338 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Sabber. Some parts of its walls, with a large 
 mofque belonging to it, are ftill Handing. The 
 other is Oddena, which {lands at no great dif- 
 tance from Thobad, upon the fummit of Mount 
 Sabber, over againft Kahhre. The latter was 
 the place of the reiidence of the kings of this 
 country ; its only remains are the ruins of fomc 
 mofques. Ifmael Mulk, having built his tomb 
 at the foot of the rock of Kahhre, fome of his 
 devout fubjeds chofe to live near their faint ; 
 others following their example, Oddena was 
 thus abandoned, and Taoes built. So, this city^ 
 like Loheia, Beit el Fakih, and Mokha, owes its 
 rife to a faint. 
 
 Chap. IIL 
 
 Lati Revolutions of Ta/rs, 
 
 So modern a city cannot make a great figure 
 in the hiftory of Yemen. However, in thefe 
 late years, fome revolutions have taken place, 
 w^hich deferve to be briefly mentioned, as they 
 may ferve to give an idea of the povN/er of the 
 Imam, and of the manner in which the Ara- 
 bians go to war. 
 
 Imam El Man/or Hoßin, h'dd committed the 
 Government of Ta(£S, to his brother Achmed, 
 
 who, 
 
IN ARABIA, 
 
 339 
 
 who, when afterwards recalled, refufed to obey. 
 With a force of two thoufand men, whom he 
 kept in pay, he flood out for twelve years, a- 
 gainft all that the Imam could fend, to reduce 
 him to his duty. Achmed had money coined 
 in his own name, levied taxes upon goods car- 
 ried between Mokha and Sana, and conducted 
 himfelf in all refpeds, as if he had been fove- 
 reign of the country. Yet, he aöiimed not the 
 title of Imam, or King, but contented himfelf 
 with that Sidif which is common to all the 
 princes of the blood-royal. 
 
 Sidi Achmed dying, left fix fons. The eld- 
 eft of whom, Ahdulla^ fucceeded him, and lived 
 on fair terms with the Imam. Abdulla dying 
 in 1759, left the fucceftion to his only fon Ab- 
 dul Kerim, a boy, thirteen years of age. Three 
 of the young prince's uncles, All, jacJjia, £nd 
 Machfer confpired to dethrone him. One of 
 the confpirators feized the fortrefs of Kahhre^ 
 and each of the other two made himfelf mafter 
 of a gate, with fome adjoining towers. But, ^as 
 the revenues of thefe three princes were very 
 fcanty, they could neither keep many foldiers 
 on foot, nor even purchafe proviiions. They 
 were particularly in want of powder ; and wljen- 
 ever one of them could procure a few pounds of 
 ammunition, he never ceafed firing upon his 
 U u 2 brotliers, 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 brothers, till the whole was exhaufted. Äiit 
 they Dever came to a fair combat. 
 
 In thefe circumftances, young Abdul Kerim 
 wrote to his uncle the reigning Imam, begging 
 his afliftance, and intreating him to liipport him 
 * in the poiTeffion of his dominions. The Imam 
 having long wiflied to take part in the quarrel, 
 lent an army to reduce the rebels. Bat the 
 Nakib or General, El Mas, who commanded this 
 army^ hav'fig no artillery, had no other expe- 
 dient, but to fire with mufquet-ihot, from a 
 mofque v^^ithout the wail, by which he could 
 make no advancement in the liege. 
 
 The Imam had for feveral years had a dan- 
 gerous enemy in a Schiech named Abdurrab^ 
 who had occupied the territory of Hodsjerie, 
 During the blockade of Taces, this Schiech ap- 
 proached Mokha, and the Imam then found it 
 rieceffary to feek a reconciliation with his enemy, 
 peace was m.ade, through the intermediation of 
 the generals, on condition, that the Schiech 
 fhould lend afliftance to accomplifhthe conqueft 
 of Tac£S. But his troops being deftitute of can- 
 nons, v/ere as little in a condition as thofe of 
 the Imam-, to ftorm the tovitv. Yet the ihrewd- 
 nefs of Abdurrah fuggefted a ftratagem. He 
 promifed a thoufarid crowns to twelve of the 
 befieged foldiers, who were pofted in a tov/er, 
 if Ehej would permit his troops to enter. Bj 
 
 this 
 
^^T ARABIA, Uc, 
 
 34^ 
 
 mis means, the city was taken in the end of th-e 
 year 1760, and facked. 
 
 After the conqueft of Taffis, the Imam gave 
 the family of Sidi Achmed, with Schiech Ab- 
 durrah, a friendly invitation to vifit him at Sa- 
 na. The latter was at fir ft unwilling to pat 
 liimfelf in the powpr of his old enemy ; but the 
 Imam impowered his generals to pledge his faith 
 for the Schiech's fecurity ; and he was according- 
 ly taken in the fnare. The Imam treated this 
 hero with the blackeft perfidy, and put him to 
 an ignominious death. He returned the fer- 
 vices of his generals with bafe ingratitude, and 
 refufed to reinftate x\bdul Kerim m his father's 
 principality. I faw the young prince going to 
 the mofque, at Sana;, having 3. parafol CcLXXiQd 
 over him, like the other princes of the blood 
 royal. His two uncles^ Sidi Jach la, and .oiui 
 Machfar, were caft into confinement as rebels : 
 The third, Sidi Ali, happening luckily to be fa- 
 thcr-in-law to the reigning Imam, preferyed his 
 liberty, and lives privately at Sana. After thcTr 
 events, the Imam lent a Doia to Taces ; and j . 
 is now under the fame government as the other 
 cities in his dominions. 
 
34^ 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Chap. IV, 
 
 Stay at Taces» 
 
 The Dola who governed this city when we 
 vifited it, had been an officer in the Imam's ar- 
 mj, and had rifen rapidly to the rank of Nakib^ 
 without owing his fortune to his birth, as moil, 
 of thefe governors do* His government was 
 very extenfive, comprehending both Mount 
 Sabber and the territory of Hodsjerie in which 
 are a number of Schiechs, whofe families have» 
 for thefe feveral centuries, poiTeffed fmali, and 
 almoit independent Lordfhips. They pay tax- 
 es to tiie Imam, but value themfelves much on 
 their nobility of defccnt, and treat their gover- 
 nors with c©ntempt. Our D®la had already 
 had feveral differences with thofe haughty no- 
 bles, who refufed fubmiiiion to his authority. He 
 bad put one of the mutinous Schiechs in prifon, 
 and had detained' a female Have whom the Arab 
 was carrying away with him. An order from the 
 Imam, however, obliged him to fet both at li- 
 berty ; but he remained in indignation againil 
 thofe Schiechs in general. He feized the firil 
 occaiion that offered, and fent out half a dozen 
 foldiers among them, who, according to their 
 maflier's orders, conduced themfelves with great 
 inibience towards thofe highlanders. The fchiechs 
 could not bear fuch infults ; but made an infur- 
 
 redion. 
 
IN -ARABIA, läc. ■ 342 
 
 reclion, and malTacred them all. Since that 
 period, nobody from Taces has ventured to vi» 
 lit the highlands without expoiing his life to 
 extreme danger. "It was even faid^ that the 
 Schiechs would never be quiet till the Imam 
 fhould recal the Dola. 
 
 The exuberant fertility of Mount Sabber af- 
 fords, according to the accounts of the Arabs^ 
 plants of every fpecies that is to be found any 
 where elfe through the world. Mr Forlkal had 
 this mountain daily before his eyes ; but, to his 
 infinite mortification, could not obtain peimif-- 
 lion to botanize upon it. He propofed to bring 
 a Schiech from the mountains at his own ex- 
 pence, under whofe protection he might go out 
 upon his herborizing expeditions^ without danger. 
 But the Dola put a negative upon all his pro- 
 pofals, and would only fufter him to take a ihort 
 ramble over Mount Saurek. My friend fet out 
 on the 20th of June, and returned on the 22d^ 
 having found the villages in that diflriä: deferted^ 
 ^ in confequence of the intolerable exadlions of 
 thb Dola, which had forced the inhabitants to 
 retire and fettle elfevv'here. In fo wretched a 
 country, Mr Forßcal could neither find provi-. 
 lions, nor travel about infafety. 
 
 We had occafion to obferve the negligence v/itli 
 which the Arabs obferve the phafes of the moon^ 
 or rather their ignorance cf aflronomy. When 
 
 the 
 
344 
 
 neibuhk's travels 
 
 the pilgrims arrive on mount Harapliat, in the 
 neighbourhood of Mecca, all the Moflems cele- 
 brate a feflival, called Araja or Korban, for 
 which an immenfe quantity of camels, oxen> 
 and fhcep are killed. Every body believed that 
 this feflival was to begin on the 22d of June ; 
 and, as it lalts three days, during which no pro- 
 vifions are brought in from the country, all had 
 provided fheepj fugar, and flour for their en- 
 tertainment during that time. Mean while^ a 
 courier arrived from Sana, with information 
 that the new moon had appeared a day fooner 
 than ilie was expeded, and that the feaft muft be 
 celebrated on the 22d of June. 
 
 On the day appointed, the iignal was given^ 
 by fii:ing a few fhots of a cannon. The Dola^ 
 with a numerous company, went in proceffion 
 to a fquare without the city, where, upon fo- 
 lemn occafions, prayers were ufually offered up 
 in the open air. Returning theoce, he went 
 to the parade, where the principal inhabitants 
 of the city were engaged in the exercife of 
 the Dsjerid* 
 
 The Dola, flriving to fnew his addrefs, was 
 thxown from his horfe. However, all returned 
 home, made good cheer, chewed Kaad, and 
 burned fpices in their houfes. 
 
 In order to make the mofl of our flay at 
 Taoes, I wiüied to make fome excurfions 
 
 through 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 345 
 
 through the interior country, but dürft not at- 
 tempt thein, on account of the prevailing dif- 
 turbances. I was at laft difpofed to content 
 niyfeif with copying an infer iption in the for- 
 trefs ; and Mr Forlkal refumed his intention of 
 fending for a Schiech from mount Sabber. The 
 Dola agreed to our wißies ; but at midnight, he 
 fent to tell us, that he had received a letter 
 from the Dola of Mokha, requiring us to return 
 immediately to the latter city, We fufpecled 
 this letter to be a pretence, and refufed to be 
 gone. Early in the morning, however, ca- 
 mels were fcnt to carry us away, but we fcnt 
 them back. With Turks we dürft not have 
 (ione fo much. 
 
 W e could not comprehend what were the Do. 
 la's views, unlefs, perhaps, he might, like the^ 
 Dola of Mokha, intend to extort fome confider- 
 able pre fent from us. Into thefe views we had 
 no difpofition to enter, and therefore ibught a pri- 
 vate audience of him, in hopes of bringing him to 
 reafon. Our fervant was feveral times fent back 
 under difi^erent pretexts. At laft, Mr Foiikal ob- 
 tained accefs to the Dola, and begged of him only 
 to permit us to wait till we ftiould receive the Im- 
 am's anfv/er, without mentioning our little 
 fchemes. But the governor cut him ihort, laying ; 
 lince you would not credit my fervants, I myfelf 
 order you to be gone to Mokha to-morrow. 
 
 Vol. I, . X X Ghap. 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 I 
 
 Chap, V. 
 
 Depart irre from Taoes to Sana» 
 
 SeeIng no means to elude the Dola's orders, we 
 had already packed up our goods, when a favour^ 
 able change fuddenly took place upon our cir- 
 cumftances. A letter was brought us by exprefs 
 from the Dola of Moliha, and in it were three 
 others ; one to the Imam, another to his vizier, 
 and a third to the Dola of Tao^s. He informed 
 us, that the Imam gave us permilTion to go to 
 Sana, and wifhed us to carry our curioiities with 
 us. He acquainted the Dola of Tacss with their 
 mailer's orders, and begged him to favour our de« 
 parture to S^na. Mr Forflial went inftantly 
 with this letter to the governor, but could not 
 obtain accefs to him, and was obliged to give it 
 to his fervant. - " 
 
 ¥v^e now thought our affairs in a good train^ 
 and w ould even have fet out without troubling 
 the Dola farther, if we could have obtained ca- 
 mels without his interpofition on our behalf. 
 Thofe Vvdio hire thefe cattle are united in a fort 
 of corporation ; and travellers are obliged to apply 
 to the head of the company, who has recourfe 
 upon the owners of the camels, and makes them 
 furnifh, in tmn. the number which may be want- 
 ed. 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 347 
 
 ed. Unluckily the Dola himfelf was at the head 
 of this company, and was obliged to furnifn ca- 
 mels in his turn. V/e let him know that we 
 were about to depart. He anfwered, that camels 
 v.^ere ready to convey us back to Mokha, but 
 that the orders refpeccing our journey lo Sana re- 
 garded only the Dola of Mokha. 
 
 In the perplexity to which we were reduced 
 by this condu6l of the Dola's, we knew not what 
 to do. Several inftances of the equity and ge- 
 nerofity of the Cadi Vv^ere in the mean time re^ 
 jated to us, in which he had brought the Go- 
 vernor to reafon in cafes limilar to ours. We 
 made our complaints therefore to that judge, and 
 Ihewed him our letters from Mokha. He thought 
 the Dola's condud very unreafonable, and imme- 
 diately wrote to him to bevv^are of doing any 
 thing in contradiclion to the orders of the Imam« 
 The Dola replied, that he did not hinder our 
 journey to Sana, but, afked us to ftay one day 
 till he fhould write his letters to court upon the 
 occafion. We offered to ftay two or three days. 
 Notwithftanding this, the Dola's fervants cam^ 
 next morning, and ordered us in his name, to 
 depart to Mokha. We had again recourfe to 
 the Cadi, who being previouily informed of all 
 that had happened, had, in the morning, written 
 to the Dola, that he fhould not ad: in a harfh or 
 interefted manner with us ; for we were ilrangcrs. 
 
 The 
 
34§ 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 The Bai]<:ateb told us in the evening, that the 
 Doia was forry, that his fervants had come to 
 with a meiTage in his name which he had given 
 them no orders to deliver. But upon this head 
 we knew fufficiently what to think. 
 
 The Dola of Mokha's fervant could not now 
 be of farther ufe to us ; we difmilTed him there- 
 fore with a handfome reward. But as we ftill 
 wanted a guide who knew the interior parts of 
 Yemen, we begged the Cadi to dired us to fuch 
 a one; and he politely fent us an Arab, who after- 
 wards accompanied us to Mokha, and with whom 
 we were perfedlly fatibfied. The Dola Ihewed 
 likewife a difpoiition to make amends by kind- 
 nefs for the trouble he had given us, and order- 
 ed one of his fervants to accompany us on our 
 journey. This man had the addrefs to ftipulate 
 before-hand, in the prefence of feveral perfons 
 of diflinclion, for the wages which we were to 
 pay him. 
 
 The Cadi, unalked, had the generolity to give 
 us a letter of recommendation to the Imam's vizier, 
 in which he told him, that he fhould beware of 
 believing any thing that might be related to him 
 to the difadvantage of thefe Franks* We could 
 have wifhed to make the judge a prefent of a 
 watch ; his probit/ and beneficence having infpir- 
 ed us with the higheft veneration for his charac- 
 ter^ and the livelieft giatitade for his favours. 
 
 But 
 
IN ARABIA, ^C. 
 
 349 
 
 But we were informed that he would accept na 
 fuch thing, left he might appear to have inter- 
 efted views in taking part with us. 
 
 We could not fee the Dola before our depart- 
 ure. He avoided receiving our vifit under pre- 
 tence of illnefs. Our friends however alTured 
 us, that he was fallen ferioufly ill, in confequence 
 of the uneafinefs which our obftinate refiftance 
 to his will had given him. Our firmnefs was in- 
 deed faid to have made him contemptible in the 
 eyes of the inhabitants of the city. 
 
 His condud: had occafioned us no lefs vexa- 
 tion. I even blame the uneafinefs with which 
 Mr Forlkal was at that time agitated, as the firft 
 -occafion of the illnefs, which, foon after, hurri- 
 ed my friend to the grave. 
 
 SECTION 
 
KEIBUi?R*S TRAVEiS 
 
 SECTION XIIL 
 
 fOURNEY TO SANA, 
 
 I 
 
 Chap. L 
 
 Rbut from Ta£s to Jerim^ 
 
 E ROM Taoes we fet out on the 28tli of June ; and, 
 for the two firfl days, found no human habita- 
 tions on our way, except fome paltry coffee huts, 
 a few villages, and a fmall town ; and mod of 
 the villages were falling into ruius. The coun- 
 try is uncultivated, and almoft defolate ; which 
 feems to be owing to the late wars for the fuccef- 
 lion to the throne of Taoes. 
 
 On the third day we reached Mb arras, which 
 I had formerly travelled over in one of my pre- 
 vious excurfions. A violent Horm furprifed us^ 
 and gave us an opportunity of remarking how 
 the torrents^ rufliing upon fuch occaiions from 
 
 the 
 
IN ARABIA, iJc, 
 
 35^ 
 
 hills, produce the gullies, one of which we pafiT- 
 ed on an arch of folid ilone. 
 
 The great inns which are fcattered over tlie 
 country from the Tehama thus far, are called 
 Mattracb, Thefe are private houfes, the mailers 
 of v/hich furnifh travellers with their meals, 
 which are commonly very indifferent. Between 
 Mharras and Sana, almoft at every half day's 
 journey, Hands a large Simfera of burnt bricks. 
 Thefe edifices, like the caravanferas in Turkey 
 have been built by wealthy perfons for the üc- 
 commodation of travellers, and afford fafe lodg- 
 ing, but no other fort of food than coffee, rice, 
 bread and butter. The traveller muil bring his 
 other provifions with him. 
 
 On the firft of July, having croiTed Mount 
 Mharres upon a paved road, we entered a more 
 fertile country, and after paffing feveral villages 
 and a number of Madsjils, arrived ^.t Jhh, This 
 city (lands on the height of a hill, is farrounded 
 by a ftrong wall, and contains 800 houfes, moil 
 of which are in a good fafhion of building. Its 
 itreets are paved, and it has a good many fmall 
 mofques. Beiide one of thefe is a large refer- 
 voir, which receives water by an aqueduÖ, and 
 fupplies all the houfes in the city^ 
 
 At a fmall difcance, between Abb and Dsjohla 
 are two rivulets, one of which running weft- 
 ward, is encreafed into the river Zebid ; and th^ 
 
35^ 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 other running fouthward, forms Meidam a river 
 which difembogues itfelf into the fea near Aiden. 
 The different courfes of thefe rivers, two of the 
 moft confiderahie in the country, and the cir- 
 cumftance of their taking their rife here, feem 
 to indicate this as the moll elevated fpot in the 
 mountainous part of the Imam's dominions. The 
 height of mount Sumara, which we palTed on the 
 day following, is another proof of this. 
 
 We travelled down mount Abb, along good, 
 paved roads, and then cirolTed a country of a 
 varied furface, having villages, madsjils and 
 fioufes for the protedlion of travellers, fcattered 
 over it. No remarkable place was to be feen 
 except the city otMuchoder, Handing on a hill, 
 and the feat of a Dola. 
 
 After fpending the night in a Simfera, we be- 
 gan to afcend mount Sumara, a hill much higher 
 than Mharres, by ways v^^hich had been render- 
 ed accelTible to camels by being paved, and carried 
 in a winding direä:ion round thofe places, 
 v/liich were too fteep for diredl accefs. Half 
 way up the hill is the village of Menlil, in which 
 is a fuperb Simfera built all of hewn ftone. We 
 obtained a convenient apartment upon the roof, 
 of which Mr Forikal, yAio was now extremely 
 weak, flood very much in need. 
 
 Here we remained during the next day, and 
 would gladly have ilaid till our friend had been 
 
 fomewhat 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C; 
 
 353 
 
 ibmewhat better ; but our camel- drivers could 
 not here find food fitting for their cattle. They 
 propofed to us to proceed to Jerim, a city at a 
 fmall diftance, and promifed that our fick friend 
 fhould be borne by men over the rugged roads 
 of mount Sumara. 
 
 We were perfuaded, and fet forward on the 
 5th of July. I went before, to enjoy the frefii 
 air ; a piece of inexcufable imprudence in places 
 of fo keen a temperature. I foon felt myfelf af- 
 feded with a fevere rheum, vomitings, and ex- 
 ceffive thirft, which I could, not have quenched 
 Dn that defart mountain, if I had not fortunate- 
 ly met with a peafant who permitted me to 
 drink out of his pitcher of water, I faw nothing 
 in this part of our journey, v»^hich feemed 
 worthy of attention, except a ruinous caftle, the 
 property of the family of Haflan, and itanding 
 on the very peak of Mount Sumara. In this 
 neighbourhood, are two tribes of wandering 
 Arabs, who are now fettled in villages. There 
 are no more Bedouins in the Imam's do- 
 minions. 
 
 The Arabs could not be perfuaded to carry 
 a Chriilian; and Mr Forßial was therefore 
 placed in his bed upon a camel. Although we 
 had proceeded flowly, he was in a deplorable 
 condition, by the time we reached Jerim. We 
 now found, that, although we had accuftomed 
 
 Vol-- I« Y y ourfelves 
 
35^ 
 
 neibukr's travels 
 
 ourfelves to live like the inhabitants of the 
 country, yet there were certain conveniences 
 which in cafe of illnefs we could not well 
 wanto 
 
 Chap. IL 
 
 Of the city of J er im, 
 
 "W^E lodged in a public inn. But the crowd 
 of fpedators whom curiofity brought together^, 
 to fee the Europeans, becoming extremely 
 troublefome, we hired a more quiet apartment 
 in the city, where we might live undiiturbed till 
 our fellow traveller Ihould recover his health. 
 It was impcfiible to find perfons who would 
 carry our lick friend. Our Mahometan fervant 
 refufed to affift us in removing Mr Forfkal from 
 the one houfe to the other; and we vverc oblig- 
 to carry him ourfelves. 
 
 Jerim is but a fmall town, yet the feat of a 
 Dola, who refides in a callle fituate on a rock* 
 The houfes are built of flone, and of bricks 
 w^hich have been dried in the fun. I faw no- 
 thing farther remarkable about this town. 
 
 At tvv-o miles diflance from Jerim, according 
 to the tradition of the Arabs, Hood once a fa- 
 mous city Bbafar, very little of the ruins of 
 
 which 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 3S5 
 
 BOW remain. The firft magiftrate of Jerirn^ 
 however, told me, that a large ftone is ftiil to be 
 feen there, with an infcription, which neither 
 Jews nor Mahometans can explain. This was 
 probably the ßtuation of the city of T'aphar, 
 which ancient hiftorians mention as the feat of 
 the Hamjarines. If any Hamjarine infcription 
 fhall ever be difcovered, it will probably be 
 among thefe ruins. The Arabs maintain that 
 Dhafer was the feat of Saad-el-Kammel, a fa- 
 mous hero, king of all Arabia^ who lived eigh- 
 teen hundred years ago. 
 
 On. the eaft fide of mount Sumara, we found 
 the climate very different from what it was on 
 the weft fide. It had rained almoft every day 
 ofourjourney fromTa^s to Meniil; and the earth 
 w^as covered with a charming verdure. At Je„ 
 rim, on the contrary, no rain had fallen for three 
 months, although diftant thunder had been heard 
 almoft every day. In this want of rain, the 
 locufts had multiplied prodigiouily, and had 
 eaten up almoft all the produdlions of the 
 earth. The inhabitants of Jerim refolved to 
 put up public prayers for. rain, on the eighth of 
 July ; and for that purpofe, repaired in procef- 
 ii on to a place Vv^ithout the city, v/here fuch fo- 
 lemnities were ufually performed. The company, 
 who walked in proceiTion, confifted of a number 
 of clergymen in a drefs expreffive of humility. 
 
 Y y 2 Ths 
 
3S6 niebuhr's travels 
 
 Two venerable Schechs walked at tlieir head^ 
 bearing open calkets full of books. As they 
 proceeded, all fang and repeated fliort prayers. 
 Hardly was this ceremony over, when, on the 
 very fame evening, a ftorm arofe, with hail and. 
 a very heavy rain. The rains became after- 
 wards more frequent. Between the tropics they 
 fall at regular periods, on the different fides of 
 the great ranges of hills. 
 
 In all the markets, locufts were fold at a low 
 price ; for fo prodigiouily numerous were they in 
 a plain near Jerim, that they might be taken 
 by handfuls. We faw a peafant having a fack 
 full of them, which he was going to dry and lay 
 up for winter proviiions. Whenever it ceafed 
 raining for an hour or two on the other fide of 
 mount Sumara, legions of thefe infeds ufed to 
 come over to Jerini. We faw the peafants of 
 Meniil purfuing them, in order to preferve their 
 fields from abfolute defolatioo^ 
 
 In the ftreets of Jerim, we faw a bridegroom 
 proceeding to the bath in ceremoBy. Two 
 boys went before, dancing to the mulic of a 
 timbrel ; a crowd followed, confiiling of per-> 
 fons of all ages, who Ihot piftols in the air as 
 they went on ; the bridegrooom with his friends 
 clofed the procelTion. At night, a number of 
 flambeaus were lighted up, and formed a 
 pretty enough illumination. 
 
 We 
 
IN ARABIA, Ue-, 
 
 357 
 
 We were one day entertained by two gladi- 
 ators, who, for a few peices of fmall moneyj 
 exhibited their addrefs in the ftreets. They 
 wore maiks, the firfl I had feen in the eali, 
 and were armed with a buckler and a polgnard» 
 They did not fight to wound one another : the 
 perfedion of their art confided in their leaping, 
 and in feveral agile turns of the body. 
 
 Being ever unwilling to mingle with crowds, 
 I had not yet feen any of the markets in Arabia, 
 although thefe are reforted to as places of amufe- 
 ment by the inhabitants of the country. To di- 
 vert myfelf a little, I went to the market at Je« 
 j-im. A great many people were met in it, who 
 -were chiefly peafants that had come to fell their 
 different articles. I faw no (hops furnifhed with 
 goods of any confiderable value. Many taylors, 
 fhoemakers, blackfmiths, and other artifans, fat 
 along the ftreets, behind low walls, and wrought 
 at their trades in the open air. I faw alfo fur- 
 geons who drew blood with a common knife^ 
 and then drefied the wound with pieces of hartf- 
 |iorn cut off at the root of the horn. 
 
35^ 
 
 NISBUHR's TRAVE2,3 
 
 Chap. Ill, 
 
 Death of Mr Forßal. 
 
 On the ür ft days after our arrival at Jerim^ 
 Mr For&al's illnefs feemed to decreafe. But it 
 foon after returned with fuch violence that we 
 defpaired of his recovery. On the evening of 
 the tenth of July, he funk into a deep lethargy^ 
 in which ftate he continued till his death, the 
 next mormng, V/e were deeply affected at his 
 lofs. In confeq^uence of his botanical excurfionsj 
 he had learned more than any of us, of the Ara- 
 bic tongue, and its different dialeds. Fatigue, 
 or the want of conveniences, never difcouraged 
 him ; he could accommodate himfelf to the man- 
 ners of the people of the country ; without do- 
 ing whichj indeed, no one can hope to travel 
 with advantage through Arabia. In Hi ort, he 
 feemed formed by nature for fuch an ex- 
 pedition as that in which v/e were engaged. 
 
 It was necelTary for us to notify the death of 
 our companion to government. To this end, 
 we fent the Dola of Tases's fervant to the Dola 
 and the Cadi of Jerim. The latter politely di- 
 reded us to an Arab, who could fell us a place, 
 
 v*'here 
 
* 
 
 IN ARABIA, Wc, 359 
 
 Hvhere we might inter our deceafed friend. 
 The bargain which we ftruck with this man did 
 not take eiFed ; for the place being near a canal 
 intended for the watering of the meadows, the 
 poiTelTors of thefe had threatened our Arab with 
 an adion at law, if the water fhould fail 
 on account of the Chriftian's body. We foon 
 after obtained a different place for the fame 
 price. 
 
 The Dola then expreffed a wifh to confer 
 with fome one of our number. He informed 
 me, thai;, in quality of governor, he had a right 
 to the perfonai effects of all Jews and Banians who 
 died within his dominions. I anfwered that the 
 deceafed was neither a Jew nor a Banian, but 
 an European ; and that the Dola of Mokha had 
 laid no claim to the effects of one of my compa« 
 nions, who died in that city. The Dola's 
 fon then explained to me his father's intention?, 
 who expeded to receive at lead a confiderable 
 prefent. I told him that Europeans were accuf- 
 ffomedtopay nothing without receiving a written 
 acquittance ; and that if he would grve us in writ- 
 ing a ilatement of what he required, we fliould 
 then fee what we could do. After this, the Dola 
 who knew that we were going to Sana, and pro- 
 bably feared that we might complain of him 
 there, left us at peace* 
 
 Our 
 
3ÖO 
 
 talBUHR's TRAVELS 
 
 Our greateft difficulty now was to find per- 
 fons to bear the body to the grave ; and this^ 
 even although we promifed to pay very liberal- 
 ly for the ferviee. At laft we prevailed with fix 
 men to convey it to the burying- place at mid- 
 night. They performed the tafk, but ran and 
 hid themfelves, in the beft manner they could, all 
 the way ; fo great is the averfion of thofc people^ 
 to touch a Chrifi:ian. 
 
 We refolved to bilry our deceafed friend in a 
 coffin ; but we had done better to have followed 
 the Arabian mode, and wrapped him fimply in 
 a fear- cloth. The coffin made the people fiif« 
 ped: that we Europeans buried riches with' the 
 bodies of our dead. At Sana, we learned that 
 Mr ForikaPs body had been taken up by nighty 
 End that the grave-clothes had been fnatched 
 away, after the coffin was opened. The Dola 
 obliged the Jews to bury it again, and left 
 them the coffin for their pains. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 . Route from Jerim to Sana^ 
 
 AftePv the burial of our friend, we had nothing 
 to detain us from continuing our journey. On 
 
 the 
 
IN ARABIA, i^C. 
 
 tlie 13th of July, we left Jerim, and after pro- 
 ceeding for four miles along rugged roads^ and 
 through a barren country, arrived on the fame 
 day at Damar. Through this trad of road, the 
 people who fell Kifcher are in fo wretched a 
 «Kondition, that they live in poor huts, and ly 
 on the ground. 
 
 As we had lived fo long at Jerim, the inha-^ 
 bitants of Damar had previous notice of our ap- 
 proach. Europeans feldom pafs this w^ay ; and 
 the people of this place being therefore very 
 curious to fee us, came out and met us half a 
 league from the city. As we drew^ nearer, the 
 erovv^d became more numerous ; and therefore 
 to avoid being teized and difturbed by them, 
 Vv e would not enter an inn, but hired an empty 
 houfe. This precaution little availed us ; for 
 the crowd iurrounded us in fuch a manner that 
 we could not enter our lodging. Mr Cramer 
 being mounted on his mule, forced his way r 
 but then they exclaimed againit the infolence 
 of the inSdels, and began to throw fiones in at 
 our windows. We thought of afking a guard 
 From the Dola, but were told that he had only 
 thirty foldiers in all, and was afraid of the 
 mob liimfelf. At laß:, the firft nja giftrate com- 
 ing to confult our phyßcian advifed us to take 
 no notice of the petulance of the ftudents, who 
 threw ftones that they might draw us to the wia^ 
 
 Vol. I. X z. dows. 
 
362 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 dows. The tumult foon ceafed, and the mob dit 
 perfed. 
 
 The city of Damar Hands in a fertile plain. It 
 is the capital of a province, and is governed by 
 a Dola, who refides in a large caflle. It has a 
 famous univerfity, in which to the number of 
 five hundred ftudents are commonly employed 
 in their ftudies. It is without walls ; its build- 
 ings are good ; and it is very large, containing 
 no fewer than five thoufand houfes. The Jews 
 live in a detached village ; but the Banians are 
 permitted to live in the town among the mufflik 
 mans. 
 
 In no other city had our phyfician better 
 pra6lice. As he was unwilling to go out on ac« 
 count of the mob, the fick were brought to him 
 in their beds ; and an inhabitant of this town 
 accompanied us to Sana, purely that he might 
 have an opportunity of confulting our phyfician 
 by the way, and in that city. 
 
 Near Damar is a mountain containing a mine 
 of native fulphur. In another hill, fomewhat 
 ' farther diftant, thofe fine carnelians are found 
 which are fo much efteemed in Arabia. 
 
 Our European fervant falling ill, we left him 
 at Damar, to follov/ us by fhort journies. At 
 his arrival, he complained that nobody would 
 give him lodging by the way. The Arabs were 
 afraid that he might die in their houfes^ and that 
 
 they 
 
IN ARABIA, Uc^ 365 
 
 might be obliged to take the expence and pains 
 of burying him. 
 
 On the fourteenth of July we crolTed a plain en- 
 compaffed ^vith bare and arid hills. Near the road, 
 and within a mile of Damar, is the fmail town of 
 Mauahbel, in which the Imam dwelled whom the 
 Author of the voyage to Arabia Felix faw in the be- 
 ginning of the prefent century. The road becomes 
 very rugged ; and the country appears marlhj 
 and ill-cultivated towards Suradge. From Sur- 
 adge to Sana, the villages are all furrounded with 
 orchards and vineyards. We were here overtaken 
 by a ftorm of hail, accompanied with peals of 
 thunder ; but no Madgils were nigh^ to fheitei: 
 the traveller^ 
 
 Next day we had Hill worfe roads to travel ; 
 which feemed furprißng, fo near the capital. 
 We faw Hodafa, which Hands on a deep, infuU 
 ated rock, and in which is faid to be a curious 
 infcription, upon an old wall. This infcription 
 was mentioned to me at Taies'^ and I was inform- 
 ed by a Jew at Sana, that the charaders refemble 
 neither the Arabic nor the Hebrew. I fufped 
 them to be Hamjarene, and am forry that I had 
 it not in my power to examine them. 
 
 After palling through feveral paultry villages^ 
 we at length reached Seijan, a village, which, to- 
 gether with Suradge, belongs to the princes of 
 the blood ; we obferved in it a good many ruin- 
 
304 kiebuhr's travels 
 
 ous houfes. As there falls not enough of rain 
 here, large refervoirs have been formed at the 
 foot of the hills, and from thefe fhe water is dis- 
 tributed through the country at confiderable ex- 
 pence and trouble. 
 
 Hoping to enter Sana, on the i6th of July^ 
 we put on our Turkiüi drefles in the morning ; 
 their appearance being fomewhat better than 
 that of the Arabic garb we had worn in the courfe 
 of our journey. Along a flone bridge, we palTed a 
 fmall river, the water of which is, not far below, 
 loft among the fand ; and we halted near the 
 •village of Hadde, where the Imam has an 01:« 
 chard; at a mile's diftance fromi Sana. 
 
 SECTiqN 
 
 I 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 395 
 
 SECTION XIV. 
 
 piJR STAY AT SANA, IN THE IMAM'S COURT. 
 
 Chap. L 
 
 Our arrha! at Sana*. 
 
 On the morning of the i6th of July we had fent 
 our fervant forward, with a letter, addrefled t© 
 faJdh Ach7Jied, the Imam's vizier, announcing to 
 him our arrival. But that nobleman, having al- 
 ready heard of our near approach, had fent one 
 of his principal fecretaries, to meet us, and bid 
 us welcome. Thi^ deputy informed us, that we 
 had been long expected at the court of Sana, 
 and that the Imam had hired an elegant country- 
 houfe for us, in the fuburb of Bir-el-Aßah, 
 
 We learned that the Vizier had likewife a ^ 
 filla there. When we arrived near this place, 
 
 the 
 
NIEBÜHR's TRAVELS 
 
 the fecretaiy aiked us to alight. We fuppofcd- 
 upon this, that we were to be immediately in- 
 troduced to the Vizier ; but we only faw our 
 Secretary and our muffulman fervants proceed 
 on their affes, while we were obliged to march on 
 foot, a long way, before we reached our lodging. 
 This humiliating ceremony was what we had not 
 expeded to be fubjeded to among the Arabs, 
 who value themfelves upon their poiitenefs. 
 
 In our villa we found very good rooms, bu^. 
 thofe perfedly naked and unfurniflied. We 
 were here as ill accommodated as we had been 
 in Yemen, and more fo than v/e could have 
 been in a caravanfera, where we would at leaft 
 iiave found food. Here we were obliged to faft; 
 till we could have vicluals brought from the 
 city. Befide our houfe, was an orchard, in which, 
 the trees appeared to have grown of themfelves^ 
 without receiving any culture. 
 
 Next morning the Imam fent us a prefent^ 
 confining of five üieep, with wood, rice, lights^ 
 and fpices. The bearer of this prefent had at 
 the fame time orders to let us know, that the 
 Imam was forry that he could not fee us for 
 thefe two days yet, he being at prefent employ- 
 ed in paying off his mercenary troops. This 
 delay we would have regarded with indifference, 
 had Vv-e not been at the fame time enjoined to 
 keep within doors, till we fhould obtain our 
 
 firft 
 
IN ARABIA, \!fc. 
 
 367 
 
 Mrft audience of his-Highnefs. We could hare 
 wiflied to make the moll of our flay here. 
 
 They had however forgotten to warn us, that 
 the etiquette of this Court likewife prohibited 
 flrangers from receiving vilits from the inhabi- 
 tants of the country till they fhouid firfl appear 
 there. We had an acquaintance at Sana, a 
 Jew, who had made the voyage from Cairo to 
 Loheya in our company. This Jew, although 
 belonging to one of the richeß: and moil refpeäi- 
 able families of his nation, had entered into our 
 Service, for the courfe of that voyage, either that 
 he might travel in the greater fecurity, or to 
 fpare the expence. Accordingly, he no fooner 
 heard of our arrival, than he came to pay us a 
 viiit, and, next day brought one of the greateil 
 aftrologers in his nation to fee us. While thefe 
 men were in our company, the Secretary of Vizier 
 Fakib Achmed happened to come in. The two 
 Jews rofe before him, in teftimony of refpecl.' 
 But the fecretary, angry that they fhculd have 
 prefumed to violate the etiquette, drove them 
 out of the houfe, and ordered our fervants to ad- 
 mit no perfon to vifit us, tilLwe ftiould firfl have 
 waited on his mafler. 
 
 Ckap,' 
 
39§ 
 
 Chap. II, 
 
 Our attdiencs cf the Imami 
 
 On the 19th of Julj, the fecretary of the vizier. 
 Fakih Achmed, came to condiicr us to an audi- 
 ence of the Imam, in his palace of Biißan el 
 MetwokkeL We had expected that we fiiould 
 be introduced privately to an audience of this 
 monarch, or at leafl in prefence only of a few of 
 his principal courtiers. W e were furprifed there- 
 fore to fee every thing prepared for an Occafiod 
 of great ceremony. The court of the palace was 
 ib full of horfes, officers, and others, that we 
 iliould fcarcely have made our way through the 
 srowd, if the Nakib Gheir Alia, who had been 
 a fiave, but was now mafler of the horfe, had 
 not come, v/ith a great llafFin his hand^ to open 
 a paflage for us. 
 
 The hali of audience was a fpacious fquarc 
 cham^ber having an arched roof. In the middle 
 was a large bafon, with {om^. Jets d'^eau, riling 
 fourteen feet in height. Behnid the bafon, and 
 near the throne, were tv/o large benches, each 
 a foot and an half high : upon the throne was a 
 %ace covered' with filken fluff, on which, as 
 
 WCil 
 
IN ARABIA, ^r, 399 
 
 well as on both fides of it, laj large cufhions. 
 The Imam fat between the cufliions, with his legs 
 crofled in the eaflern fafhion ; his gown was of 
 a bright green colour, and had large fleeves. 
 On each fide of his breafl v/as a rich filleting of 
 gold-lace, and on his head he wore a great white 
 turban. His fons fat on his right hand, and his 
 brothers on his left. Oppofite to them, upon 
 the highefl of the two benches, fat the vizier ; 
 and our place was on the lower bench. On the 
 two fides of the hall, fat rriany of the principal 
 men about court. 
 
 We were firft led up to the Imanij and w^ere 
 permitted to kifs both the back and the palm of 
 his hand, as well as the hem of his robe, It is 
 an extraordinary favour, when the Mahometan 
 princes permit any perfon to kifs the palm of 
 the hand. There was a folemn filence through 
 the whole hall. As each of us touched the 
 Imam's hand, ä herald fiill proclaimed ; ^' God 
 
 preferve the Imam !" Ail who were prefent 
 repeated thofe words aloud after him. I was 
 thinking at the time, how I fiiould pay my com- 
 pliments in Arabic, and was not a little difturb- 
 ed by this noify ceremony ; but I had afterwards 
 time to reccllecl myfelf. 
 
 As the language fpoken at the court of Sana, 
 differs greatly from that of Tehama, the only 
 dialed of the Arabic tongue vdlh which we 
 Vol. L a a a. were- 
 
400 
 
 NEIBUKR-S TRAVELS 
 
 were familiarly acquainted, or could ipeak IC- 
 lerablj, we had brought our fervant whom we 
 had hired in Mokha, to be our interpreter^ 
 The vizier who had relided long in Tehama, did 
 the fame fervice for the Imam. Our converfation, 
 confequentljj could not be either very long, or 
 very interefting. V/e did not think proper tö 
 mention the true reafons of our expedition 
 through Arabia; but told the Imarn^ that wilh- 
 ing to travel by the fliorteft way to the Danifli 
 colonies in the Eaft Indies, we had heard fo 
 much of the plenty and fecurity which prevailed 
 through the dominions of the Imam, that we 
 had refolved to fee them with our own eyes, that 
 ■wc might defcribe them to our countrymen* 
 The Imam told us, we were welcome into his 
 dominions, and might ftay as long as v/e pleaf- 
 ed. After repeating the ceremony of killing the 
 Imam's hands, and hearing the repeated accla- 
 mations of the fpectators, v* e now retired in the 
 fame order in which we had come in. 
 
 The Imam fent us, after our return home, to 
 each a fmall purfe containing ninty nm^Komaßs^ 
 two and thirty of which make a crown. This 
 piece of civility might perhaps appear no compli- 
 ment to a traveller's delicacy* But, when it is 
 conlidcred that a llranger, unacquainted with the 
 value of the money of the country, obliged to 
 pay every day for his provifions, is in dan- 
 ger 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C. 
 
 401 
 
 ger of being hiipofed upon by the money-chan- 
 gers, this care of providing us with fmall money 
 will appear to have been fuiTiciently obliging. 
 We therefore accepted the prefent, although we 
 bad refolved not to be in any degree chargeable 
 to the Arabs. 
 
 Chap, Hi. 
 
 Vifit to Vizier Fakih Achmsd. 
 
 In Turkey nq perfon is admitted to an audience 
 of the Sultan, till after he has vilited the vizier. 
 The cuilom in Yemen is direcrly contrary. Af-. 
 ter being honoured with an audience of the 
 Imam in the morning, we were invited to wait 
 on Fakih Achmed in the afternoon, at ins coun 
 try feat, near Bir-el-Aßab. We were at the 
 fame time dehred to bring with us thofe curi- 
 ofities. which we had fhewn to Emir Farhan at 
 Loheya, and to feveral Arabs of diftindion in 
 other cities* Thofe rarities were only microfcopes^ 
 telefcopes^ profped: glaifes,. therm.ometers, maps, 
 and other fach things. 1 did not chufe to produce 
 my matheiuatical iniiruments, ieil perhaps fome 
 Schech might perfuade the vizier to aik: them for 
 l^is ufe, 
 
 A. a a. 2. ^Tlic 
 
4-02 
 
 nebuhr's travels 
 
 The vizier received us with great politeneß^ 
 and expreffed himfelf highly pleafed with what 
 we fliewed him. He put various queftions to us^ 
 from which he appeared to pofiefs confiderable 
 knowledge, and to have iludied the fciences with 
 a degree of care far from common among his coun- 
 trymen. By means of Turkifh, Perfian, and In- 
 dian merchants, he had acquired tolerably correal 
 notions of geography. The Arabians imagine 
 that Europe lies fouth from them., becaufe the 
 Franks w^hom they fee, come from India. But 
 the Fakih knew very well the lituation of the 
 different ftates of Europe, w-ith their refpedlive 
 powers and forces, both by fea and land. Nor 
 could more be expelled from an Arabian who 
 had never feen a map. 
 
 In the narratives of many voyages, vve had 
 read, that in the Eaft an inferior might not ap- 
 pear before a fuperior, without bringing a pre- 
 fent in his hand. Befides, we w^ere defirous of 
 returning the marks of politenefs which had 
 been fliewn us, and of exprefling our gratitude 
 for the entertainment we had received. 
 
 For thefe reafons, w^e refolved to take this 
 opportunity of offering our prcfent to the Im- 
 am and tlie Fakih ; fent to the latter fome pieces 
 of mechanifm, fuch as watches, and fome other 
 inftruments little known among the Arabs. We 
 fooa after learned^ that this was more than had 
 
 been 
 
iN ARABIA, i^C, 
 
 34^ 
 
 been expected at our hands, ünce, not being 
 inerchants, we had no favour to afii. All had 
 however been very graciouüy accepted. The 
 Turks regard the prefents of the Europeans aS 
 a tribute ; but at the court of Sana they appear 
 to be confidered in a diiTerent light. 
 
 The Vizier's country- houfe was not large» 
 It was even entirely open, upon one lide. A 
 number of fruit-trees grew in the garden. In 
 ^he midfl: of it was a Jet d^eau, iimilar to that 
 which we had feen in the Imam's hall of audi- 
 ence. The water was put in motion, by being 
 raifed in a refervoir, by an afs and a man who 
 led him. Thujel d^emi v. as no ornament ; but 
 it cooled the air ; a thing very agreeable in hot 
 countries. W e faw others of the fame fort, in 
 the gardens of all the principal inhabitants of 
 Sana, 
 
 Chap. IV, 
 
 Of the City of Sana» 
 
 The city of Sana, is ütuate at the foot of mount 
 Nikkum, on which are ilill to be feen the ruins 
 of a caftle, which the Arabs fuppofe to have 
 fceen built by Shem. Near this mountain, Hands 
 
 tjie 
 
4^4 
 
 J^IIBUHU'S TRAVELS 
 
 the cafile ; a rivulet runs upon the other fide ; 
 and near it, is the Buftan el MeHvoJikel, a fpa«- 
 cious garden, which was laid out by Imam Met- 
 wokkel, and has been embelliflied with a fine 
 garden, by the reigning Imam. The walls of 
 the city, which are built of bricks, exclude thia 
 garden, which is enclofed Mithin a v/aii of its 
 own. The city, properly fo called, is not very 
 extenfive : One may walk round it all in ai\ 
 houro ^ 
 
 I fliould have wiflied to make an accurate 
 ground-plan of this city. But, wherever I w^ent, 
 the mob crowded after me fo, that a furvey was 
 abfolutely impoflible. The city- gates are feven« 
 Here are a number of mofques, fome of which 
 have been built by Turkifli Pachas. Sana has, 
 the appearance of being more populous than 
 it actually is ; for gardens occupy a part of the 
 fpace within the walls. In Sana, are only 
 tvv^elve public baths : but many noble palaces, 
 three of the niofl: fpendid of which have been 
 built by the reigning Imam. The palace of the 
 late Imam El Manzor, with fome others, be- 
 long to the royal family^ who are very nu«. 
 merous. 
 
 The Arabian palaces are built in a ftyle of 
 architedure different from ours. The materials 
 are, ho ever, burnt bricks, and fometim.es even 
 hewn ftones^ but the houfes of the common 
 
 people* 
 
405 
 
 people are of bricks which have been dried in 
 the fun. I faw no glafs windows, except in one 
 palace, near the citadel. The reil of the houfcg 
 have, inftead of windows, merely ihutters, which 
 are opened in fair weather, and fhut when it is 
 foul. In the laß: cafe, the houfe is lighed by a 
 tound wicket, fitted with a piece of Mufcovy 
 glafs ; fome of the Arabians, ufe fniaii panes of 
 ftained glafs from Venice, 
 
 At Sana, and in the other cities of the Eaft^ 
 are great Simferas or caravanferas for merchants 
 mnd travellers. Each different commodity is 
 fold in a feparate market. In the market for 
 bread, none but women are to be feen ; and 
 their little fliops are portable. The feveral 
 claifes of mechanics work, in the fame m.anner, 
 in particular quarters in the open ftreet. Writers 
 go about with their defies, and make out brieves, 
 copy-books, and inilru^l fcholars in the art of 
 Vva'iting, all at the fame time. There is one 
 market, where old clothes are taken in exchange 
 for new. 
 
 Wood for the carpenter's purpofes is in ge- 
 neral extremely dear through all Yemen ; and 
 wood for the fire at Sana is no lefs fo. All the 
 hills near the city are bleak and bare, and 
 wood is therefore to be brought hither from 
 the dillance of three days journey ; and a ca- 
 mePs burthen commonly coils two crowns. Thi^ 
 
 fcarcity 
 
fcarcity of wood is particularly fupplied by theufe 
 of a little pit-coal. I have feen peats burnt here^ 
 but thofe fo bad, that ftraw muft be intermixed 
 to make them burn. 
 
 Fruits are, however, very plenteous at Sana. 
 Here are more than twenty different fpccies of 
 grapes, which, as they do not all ripen at the 
 the fame time, continue to afford a delicious 
 xefrefliment for feveral months. The Arabs 
 likewife preferve grapes, by hanging them up 
 in their cellars, and eat them almoil through 
 the whole yean The Jews make a little wine^ 
 and might make more, if the Arabs were not 
 fuch enemies to itrong liquors. A Jew convided 
 of conveying wine into an Arab^s houfe is fevere- 
 ]y punifhed ; nay, the Jews muß: even ufe great 
 caution, in buying and felling it among them- 
 feives. Great quantities of grapes are dried here ; 
 and the exportation of raiiins from Sana is con- 
 iiderable. One fort of thefe grapes are without 
 flones, and contains only a foft grain, the pre- 
 fence of which is not perceptible in eating the 
 railin. 
 
 In the caflle, v/hich ftands on a hill, are tw^ 
 palaces. I faw about it fome ruins of old build» 
 ings, but, notwithftanding the antiquity of the 
 place, no remarkable infcriptions. There is the 
 mint, and a range of prifons for perfons of diffe- 
 rent ranks. The reigning Imam refides in the 
 
 city; 
 
IN ARABIA, l£c. 
 
 4Ö7 
 
 city ; but feveral princes of the blood-royal live 
 in the caftle. I was conducted to a battery, as 
 the mofl elevated place about thefe buildings ; 
 and there I met with what I had no expedla- 
 tion of, a German mortar, with this infcription, 
 Jorg Selos Gofmick, 15 13. I faw alfo, upon 
 the fame battery, feven iron cannons, partly bu- 
 ried in the fand, and partly fet upon broken 
 Carriages. Thefe feven fmall cannons, with fix 
 others, near the gates, which are fired to an- 
 nounce the return of the different feftivals, are 
 gll the artillery of the capital of Yemen. 
 
 Chap. V. 
 
 Of the country around Sana^ 
 
 The fuburb of Bir el AJfah is nearly adjoining 
 to the city upon the eaft fide. The houfes of 
 this village are fcattered through the gardens, 
 along the bank of a fmall river. Two leagues 
 northward from Sana is a plain, named Rodda^ 
 which is overfpread with gardens, and watered 
 by a number of rivulets. This place bears a 
 great refemblance to the neighbourhood of Da- 
 mafcus. But Sana, which fom.e ancient authors 
 compare to Damafcus, (lands on a rifmg groundy 
 with nothing like florid vegetation about it. 
 VoLoL Bbb After 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 After long rains, indeed, a fmall rivulet ram 
 through the city ; but all the ground is dry, 
 through the reft of the year. However, by 
 aqueduds from mount Nikkum, the town and 
 caille of Sana are, at all times, fuppÜed with 
 abundance of excellent frefh water. 
 
 Jews are not permitted to live in the city of 
 Sana, They live by themfeives in a village, 
 nanied Kaa el Ihud, fituate near Bir el Affah 
 Their number amounts to two thoufand. But^ 
 in Yemen, they are treated even more contempt- 
 uoufly than in Turkey, Yet, the beß: artifans 
 in Arabia are Jews ; efpecially potters and 
 goldfmiths, who come to the city, to work in 
 their little iliops by day, and in the evening re-^. 
 tire to their village. 
 
 Thofe Jews carry on a confiderable trade. 
 One of the moft eminent merchants among them^ 
 named Oroeki, gained the favour of two fuccef- 
 iive Im^am's, and was for thirteen years, in the 
 reign of El Manfor, and for fiftcjen years under 
 the prefent Imam, comptroller of the cuftoms 
 and of the royal buildings and gardens ; one of^ 
 the moft honourable offices at the court of Sana, 
 Two years before our arrival here, he had fal- 
 len into difgrace, and was not only imprifoned^ 
 but obliged to pay a fine of 50,000 crowns. 
 Fifteen days before we arrived at Sana, the Imam 
 liaa let him at liberty. He was a venerable oId_ 
 
m ARABIA, &C, 40^ 
 
 man, of great knowledge : and although lie had 
 received the Imam's permiffion, had never 
 chofen to alTume any other drefs than that com- 
 monly worn among his countrymen. The 
 young Jew, who had been our fervant, was one 
 of his relations, and had mentioned us fo fa- 
 vourably to him, that he conceived a defire to 
 fee us. But we durfl not hold frequent inter- 
 courfe with a man fo nawly releafed out of 
 prifon. 
 
 The difgrace of Oroeki had drawn a degree 
 of perfecution upon the reft of the Jews. At 
 that period, the government ordered four- 
 teen fynagogues, which the Jews had at Sana, 
 to be demolifhed. In their village are as hand- 
 fome houfes as the beft in Sana. Of thofe houfes 
 like wife all above the height of fourteen fathoms 
 was demolifhed, and the Jews were forbidden 
 to raife any of their buildings above this height 
 in future. All the ftone pitchers in which the 
 inhabitants of the village had ufed to keep their 
 wines were broken. In fhort, the poor Jews 
 fufFered mortifications of all forts. 
 
 The Banians, in Sana, are reckoned to be a~ 
 bout 125. They pay 300 crowns a-month for 
 permiffion to live in the city : Whereas the po- 
 pulous village of Kaa el Ihud pays only 125 
 crowns a-month. The heirs of a deceafed Ba- 
 nian are obliged to pay from 40 to 50 crowns : 
 
 B b b 2 And 
 
niebukk's travels 
 
 And, if the defundl leaves no near relations in 
 Yemen, his whole property devolves to the I- 
 mam. The Banians told us, that two men of 
 their nation had been dragged to prifon two 
 months before, and, before they could obtain 
 their liberty, were forced to yield up 1500 
 crowns of an inheritance which had fallen to 
 them in India, and of which they had touched 
 BO part in Arabia. , 
 
 Chap. VL 
 
 The Pomp of the Imams Return from the Mcfque, 
 
 It is well known, that the Turkifli Sultan goes 
 every Friday to the mofque. The Imam ob- 
 ferves the fame pious cuilom with the fame ex- 
 a^tnefs, and goes and comes upon the occafion in 
 a very pompous manner. We faw him only re- 
 turning from the mofque, when his train is faid 
 to be fwelied by all thofe who have performed 
 their devotions at other mofques. The better 
 to difplay his magnificence, he makes a long 
 circuitous progrefs at his return. 
 
 The Imam, upon the occafion when we faw 
 liim, came out of the principal mofque, and 
 palTed out by one gate of the city, that he might 
 come in by another, with fome hundreds of fol- 
 
 dicrs^. 
 
m ARABIA, k^Ci 4ii 
 
 dierSj marching in procefiion before liici. — ^ 
 Over him, and the princes of his numerous fa- 
 mily, Medallas, or large parafols, were borne • a 
 diftindlion peculiarly appropriated to the fover- 
 eign and the princes of the biood-royal. We 
 were told, that in other parts of Yemen, all the 
 independent nobility, fach as the fherifte of Abu 
 Arifch, the Schiechs of Jafa, and of Hafchid-u- 
 Bekil, conftantly difplay this mark of their in- 
 dependence. 
 
 Beiide the princes of the blood, there were in 
 this procefiion at leafl: fix hundred noblemen, 
 ecclefiaftics and officers, civil and military, all 
 fuperbiy mounted upon horfes ; and a vafl 
 crowd of people followed on foot. On each iide 
 of the Imam was borne a ftandard, having upon 
 it a fmall filver box filled with amulets, whofe 
 efficacy was imagined to render him invincible. 
 This procefiion v/as, in fiiort, magnificent, but 
 diforderly. The riders paced or galloped, at 
 pleafure, and all went on in confufion. 
 
 Near a gate were fi;ationed fome pairs of camels 
 bearing carriages, in v/hich fome of the Imam's 
 wives often ride upon fuch occafions : But the 
 carriages were ät this time empty, and ferved 
 only to fill up the procefiion. Behind the ca- 
 m.els, v/hich bore thefe, vrere tu^elve others, 
 bearing nothing but fome fmall flags, fixed, by 
 way of ornam.ent, to their faddlcs. 
 
 Th€ 
 
niebuhr's travels 
 
 The foldiers fired a few rounds without the 
 gate, but not lefs awkwardly than in the other 
 cities of Yemen. In their evolutions before the 
 palace, they fhewed no greater dexterity than 
 the provincial troops which we had feen perform 
 their exercifes under the Dolas. The city gates 
 were fhut during divine fervice. 
 
 Chap. VIL 
 
 Our Audience of taking Leave, 
 
 X HE favourable reception we had met with at 
 Sana, which was above our expectations, might 
 have tempted us to flay longer. Many of the 
 principal men about the Imam's court urged us 
 to fpend another year in Yemen. But we had loft 
 two of our companions, w^ho could have availed 
 themfelves more than we of a continued ftay in 
 Arabia. Some inftances, too, of the Imam's ava- 
 rice, which had come to our knowledge, added 
 to what we had experienced in thofe cafes in 
 which we had been embroiled with the Dolas^ 
 imprefied us with a degree of diftruft, and made 
 us fear that our prefent good treatment m.ight 
 end in a very different manner. We had, be- 
 fides, found the clim.ate hurtful to our conilitu- 
 tions, and our health was much injured by the 
 
 changing' 
 
IN ARABIA, Ifc. 413 
 
 changing temperature of the atmofpliere. "W^ 
 therefore began to think feriouüy of failing for 
 India with the Englifh, that vre might fare our 
 lives and papers. 
 
 We had permifFion to leave Sana whenever v/e 
 fhould think proper ; but it wa? required that 
 vre fnould take a formal leave of the Imam, and 
 fhew him the curioiities vrhich the Vizier had 
 feen ; a circumil^nce which obliged us to defer 
 our jouj'ney for iome days. 
 
 We were fent for to Court on the 23d of July, 
 and ccnducled into the fame hall in which the 
 Imam had received us at our lormer audience. 
 Upon this fecoiid occiifion, every thing paired 
 very quietly. The Imam fat on the lowed, 
 bench beiide the thx'one, upon a chair wrought 
 of reeds.. We kilTed the hem of his robe, and 
 both fides of his hand. Nobody vras prefent but 
 the Vizier, the fecretary, by whom v\'e had been 
 condu.cled into the pretence, and fix or feven 
 üaves or fervants. None cf our fervants were 
 permitted to accompany us ; as the Vizier- 
 thought us qualified to exprefs curfelves in the 
 language of the country. All that w^e fnewed 
 the Imam feemed to pleafe him highly ; and 
 both he and his miniiler put many queflioriS to 
 lis concerning the manners, trade, and learning 
 of the Europeans. A fmall cheft of medicines^, 
 "^^hich the Imam had received from au'Englifn^ 
 
4^4 
 
 niebuhr's travels 
 
 man, was then brougbtin, Mr Cramer was afk- 
 ed to explain the virtues of thofe drugs ; and the 
 Imam caufed what he faid, concerning their na- 
 ture, to be taken down in writing. 
 
 1 had been indifpofed when I came out to 
 wait on the Imam ; and, in confequcnce of 
 fianding fo long, I felt myfelf fo weak, that I 
 v/as obliged to alle permiffion to retire. Before 
 the door I found fome of the firft officers in the 
 court, fitting on piles of ftones along the wall. 
 
 The Great Chamberlain, Gbeir AUah^ with 
 whom I had often had occafion to fpeak, imme- 
 diately made me an offer of his feat, and ga~ 
 thered ftones to make himfelf another. In this 
 company I was again addreifed with a number 
 of queilions concerning the manners and cuitoms 
 of Europe. Thofe Arabs ilrongly diiapproved 
 of our pradice of drinking fpiritous hquors. 
 But when I aiTored them that the Chriilians 
 xvere forbidden to indulge in drunkennefs, • and 
 that no feofible European drank more wine ti.aii 
 was good for his health, they allowed the cuf- 
 torn to be rational. They even acknowledged 
 that it was abfurd to abilain entirely from the 
 life of a liquor of which they had fuch abun- 
 dance, and which, on many occafions, might 
 prove falutary as a remedy, 
 
 I returned into the hall ; and, after Mr Gra- 
 zner had fini&ed his account of the drugs, and 
 
IN ARABIA, l^C, 
 
 li'fe liad anfvvered various other qiieftions, we 
 took our leave with the fame ceremonies which 
 we had obferved at entering. In the afternoon^ 
 we went to take leave of Vizier Fakih Achmed^ 
 and fome other perfons of diftindion. 
 
 Chap. VIIL 
 ■ Our Departure from Sana^ 
 
 'W^E had, indeed, good reafons to induce iis to 
 return to Mokha, by the fame way by which 
 we had come. It is better frequented ; and up- 
 on it I. ihould have had an opportunity of copy- 
 ing the infcriptions of which the Arabs had fpo- 
 ken to me : But I had been fo often deceived 
 already by ilories of pretended antiquities, that 
 to the uncertain hopes which thofe infcriptions 
 held out to rnc, I preferred the certain advan- 
 tage of furveying another part of Yemen, and of 
 feeing the Teham.a in the rainy feafon. We ac- 
 quainted the Vizier, therefore, that we wiflied 
 to travel by Mofhak to Beit el Fakih. He not 
 only approved of our intention, but told us, that 
 the Imam would fupply us with camels and aff- 
 es for our journey. 
 
 . On the 25th of July, the Imam fent each of 
 ü§ a complete fait of clothes, Vv^ith a letter to the 
 G c c Dola 
 
niebuh'rs travi:1's 
 
 Dola of Mokha to pay us two hundred crown^p 
 as a farewell prefent. We were at firft afraid 
 that this prince might fuppofe us to have come^, 
 like the Turks, to draw money from him, or 
 that w^e had made our prefents with interefted 
 views. But, after refleding that we had been 
 oViiged to ranfom ourfelves, in a manner, at - 
 Mokha, vre refolved to accept that letter of 
 credit. Whe n w e a fterwards prefented it to 
 the Dola, he fent us to receive the money from 
 his Saraf, ,ox banker, who paid us by inflal- 
 nients, but never without an air of diiTatisfac- 
 tion. 
 
 We could hardly think the Vizier ferious in 
 his offer, when he told us that the Imam would 
 farnifn us with beads of burthen. We were 
 even afraid that this might be an arrangement 
 to delay our journey^ and v/ould rather have 
 hired camels at our own expence. We there- 
 upon came to an explanation with the fe- 
 cretary, whofe anfwers led us to fufpect an 
 interefted underftanding between him, and 
 the Arabian camel-hirer, or poft-mafter. 
 
 We therefore ventured to addrefs the Vizier 
 again. He fhewed Jurprife at our perplexity; 
 becaufe he had delivered to the fecretary a writ- 
 ten order, figned by the Imam's own hand, in 
 vrhicli he v/as directed to furnifh us with camels 
 
 and 
 
I,.N. ARABIA, l^C 
 
 417 
 
 arid aifes for our whole journey, and with a 
 ilieep for our proviiions. The fecretary, on aq- 
 count of our impatience to depart, had not had 
 time to bargain for a ihare of the profits with 
 the camel-drivers, and was obliged to deliver 
 up the written order, vdih fome pieces of ftuff' 
 which the Imam had fent us for clothes to our 
 fervants. He gave us alfo notice, that fome o' 
 ther prefents were intended us,, which could not 
 be ready till after a certain number of hours. 
 We fet out without them, and the fecretary pro- 
 bably kept them to himfelf. 
 
 The drefs which I received from the. Imam^ 
 w^as exactly like that worn by the Arabs of dif- 
 tindiion through Yemen. They wear the fliirt, 
 over wide drawers, of cotton- cloth. The Jam- 
 hea, a fort of crooked cutlafs, hangs by a broad 
 girdle ; and a veil with ilrait ileeves is covered,, 
 by a üoiving gown. The Arabs are fl rangers to 
 the ufe of ftockings. The only thing they wear, 
 on their feet is a fort of iialf boots, or ilippers. 
 
 The Turks, appear to abufe the generous hof- 
 pitality v^ith which the Imam treaty flrangers 
 travelling through his dominions. Poor pil- 
 grims of that nation. often come from Jidda, are 
 entertained for months at Sana, and then ail^ 
 money to defray the expences of their journey 
 home. The Imam even orders a fum of m.oney 
 tQ be paid them in fome of his fea-port towns, 
 C c G that. 
 
kiebuhr's travels 
 
 that they may return no more to be farthet 
 chargeable to lo hofpitable a people. 
 
 Within a fliort time after our arrival, a Turkj> 
 •who had attended his mailer, an Egyptian noble«^ 
 urian, to Mecca, came by the way of Jidda and 
 Hodeida to Sana, in hopes of obtaining inilant- 
 iy one of the iirft pofts in the Imam's army : for 
 the Turks have fo high an idea of their own mi- 
 litary talents, that they fuppofe it v/ould be too 
 great a happinefs to the Arabs to be able to en«' 
 gage a Turkiih officer in their fervice. But the 
 Imam, after entertaining this man fome time at 
 Sana, fent him to Hodeida, and ordered him a 
 fum of money fufficient to carry him to Bafra» 
 On my return from India, I met with this fame 
 Turk, who had performed the voyage in a vet 
 fcl belonging to Maflcat, and had found it not 
 more dangerous than the paffage between Jidda 
 and Hodeida. 
 
 SECTION- 
 
4m. 
 
 SECTION XV. 
 
 ■QIJR RETURN FROM SANA TO MOKHAa 
 
 Chap. L 
 
 Route from Sana to Beit el Fakik* 
 
 On the 26th of July, the day of our departure 
 from Sana, we made a fliort ftage along a. bad 
 road among bare hills, with few villages inter- 
 fperfed over them. Next day, the road was Hill 
 worfe, lying over rocky mountains. This wes 
 the moft rugged road I faw in all Yemen. The 
 hills were bleak and wild, and the deep vallies 
 among them contained only a fev/ wretched 
 hamlets. 
 
 On the 28th of July, we proceeded down fteep 
 declivities. But the hills began now to difplay 
 a fmall fhare of verdure : And we here met with 
 feveral camels, loaded with very bad wood, for 
 Sana= The towns were poor and thinly fcatter- 
 
 cd. 
 
cd. In the evening, we were attacked by legi;-, 
 ons of locufts ; but thefe were foon driven awaj 
 by a violent ftorm of wind, accompanied by hta- 
 vy rain. 
 
 Wq travelled, this day, onward to Mofhak, a 
 fmall town iituate on the funimit of a precipi- 
 tous hill. The houfes in which travellers lodge 
 ftand at the foot of the hill. V/e prefented the 
 Imam's written order to the Dola of this city, 
 who accordingly furnilhed us with camels, pro- 
 vender, a good meal for our fervants, a fheep , 
 for our own fupper, and even paid for our lod- 
 ging. The revenue of Mof hak, and the territory 
 annexed to it^ is enjoyed by one qf the Imam'g 
 fpns. 
 
 Our next day's journey was upon a ftill more 
 difagreeable road, Nothing can be worfe, in- 
 deed, than the roads between Mof hak and Se- 
 ban. Upon the hill we found fix large refer-» 
 voirSj in which rain-water is colle6led. It be- 
 comes putridj after {landing for fome time, and, 
 is then very difagreeable. In this country the 
 Arabs believe they have moil to fear from the 
 worm in the nerves. If it be fo^ the caufe mull 
 ly in their, drinking that putrid water. 
 
 Leaving Sehan on the 30th of July, we conti- 
 mied our journey upon fomewhat better roads 
 which winded round the hills. Upon Harras^ 
 one of thofe hills^ we came to a defile fo narrow, 
 
 that 
 
IN ARAEIA, He, ' -42'! 
 
 '^liat a lingle camel could hardly pafs. On ei- 
 ther fide are fieep rocks ; and rain, v/hich had 
 fallen on the preceding day, had broken a gap 
 eight feet deep, precifely in the narrowefl part 
 of this road, and made it abfolutely impaflahle. 
 There was no other palTage ; and all our Arabs 
 were of opinion that we Ihould return ftraight 
 to Sana, and take the road by Tacss : But v/e 
 W'C were unwilling to turn fo far about, and 
 therefore refolved to fill up the gap with fconeSo 
 Our Arabs laughed to hear us propofe an under-- 
 taking which they fuppx)fed would give us work 
 for feveral days. But we began to gather iloneSj, 
 -and by promifes prevailed with th 
 Three hou¥s of hard work completed our cauie- 
 Vvay, and we palfed fäfe over. The Arabs 
 maintained, that, in fuch a cafe, the firfl Doia 
 of Yemen would rather have returned to Sana^ 
 than have undertaken what we had accomplifu- 
 €d. This gave no favoürable impreffion of the 
 fpirit or induilry of the nation. 
 
 On our Vv^ay, we met with a wandering fami- 
 ly, the firfc of this charader that I fav/ in Ye- 
 men. They had no tents, but lived under trees 
 with their alfes, iheep, dogs, and fowls. I for- 
 got to afK: the name of this liorde. But their 
 mode of life is perfeöly like that of our Euro^ 
 pean gypfies. They are confined to no place^ 
 but go about the villages begging and Healing ; 
 
 and 
 
Und the poor peafants often give tliem fomelhing 
 Voluntarilv, to remove them from their neiffh- 
 boiirhood. A young girl of this company came 
 to afl^ ahns from us : Her face was uncovered, 
 
 (FF) 
 
 At a fmall diiiance from the dangerous pafs 
 above mentioned, we faw the ürfl: plantation of 
 fcoffee-trees. \¥ e had feen none of thefe fince 
 our excuriions in the month of May ; but this 
 produdion does not appear to enrich thofe by 
 Tvhom it is here cultivated. The villages in the 
 k::ofFee-country are declining into a Hate of 
 wretched poverty : The houfes coiifift of dry 
 walls, covered v^ith feeds, and refemble thofe of 
 the hills about Beit el Fakih and Dfobla. The 
 river Sehan vv^as fo fwoln that v^e had diffieultj 
 in paffing it v/ith our aßes» 
 
 We fpent the night at Smnfiir^ a poor village 
 wehere I lofl: my compafs. In the morning, we 
 found oürfelves obliged to pafs^ more than a do- 
 zen of times in the fpace of a mile, over the ri« 
 ver Sehan, which runs with a meandering 
 courfe, amortg rocks, and with a very rapid cur-= 
 rent. Tills country being, very poor, the roads 
 are not exceedingly fafe, and we were therefore 
 obliged to travel fiowly, without going before 
 our baggage. We faw here many.fiirubs of the 
 fiiecies which affords the balfam of Mecca ; but 
 
 : the. 
 
IN A RAE I A, l^C. 
 
 4^3 
 
 tile inhabitants of the country know not their 
 value, and therefore negled: to cultivate them. 
 
 In the coffee- houfe of Til we met with feveral 
 pilgrims returning from Mecca ; among others 
 an Arab from Boan, a city five-ancl-twenty days 
 journey eaft from Sana, and twelve days jour- 
 ney from Kerchin ; confequently, in a country 
 entirely unknown to Europeans : I was vexed at 
 the fliort time of our interview ; and the great 
 difference between the dialedl which he fpoke^ 
 and that of Tehama, which difqualified me from 
 obtaining from him more particular informatiou 
 concerning his country. 
 
 From this inn the country improvei. It is 
 covered with verdure. In the valley area num- 
 i)er of rivulets which difcharge themfelves int® 
 the river Sehan ; and a gteat inany villages ar6 
 fcattered over the hills. 
 
 We faw a rivulet v/hich lofes itfelf under 
 ground, and appears again at a conliderable dif- 
 tance. After leaving the hills, it difappears en- 
 tirely, and its waters are difperfed over the plains 
 of the Tehama. The arable grounds among thefe 
 hills are fown only with durra, a fort of coarfe 
 millet, of which the poorer people make their 
 bread. The peafants cut out feats in the trees^ 
 and fit in thefe to watch their fields. 
 
 The rocks cn the confines of the Teharna ard 
 bafaltic, like thofe of the coffee-country near 
 
 Vol. II. D d d Biet 
 
4^4 niebühr's travels 
 
 Eeit el Fakih. We came yet to another rivulet 
 which lofes itfelf in the fands of the Tehama. 
 At lail we reached the plain, and arrived at Beit 
 tl Fakih in the evening of the ift of Auguft. 
 
 ClIAP. II. 
 
 Route from Beit el Fakih to Mokhä. 
 
 1 HE greater part of this city having been buriit 
 down in the month of .April lafl, we had e:^:- 
 pedled to find it defolate. We were, therefore^ 
 greatly furprifed to fee all the houfes, or rather 
 huts, rebuilt. Several edifices of flone,' fitter to 
 refift the force of fire, had likewife been raifed» 
 
 We fent notice to the Dola of our arrival, and 
 deiired him to haVe camels in readinefs, on 
 Vi^hich we might continue our journey. Our 
 Arabian fervants would have demanded provi- 
 lions from him, that they might make merry, 
 and ßiew the people in what an honourable man- 
 ner they were received. 
 
 I fliall now only mention fome changes pro- 
 duced by the rains upon this part of the coun- 
 T y. Indeed, as we had already feen the face 
 ' ' the country, we preferred travelling by night 
 
 this time, to avoid fuffering from the torrid 
 I t^ats of the day. 
 
 Having 
 
IN ARABIA, bV, 425 
 
 Kaving fet out from Beit el Fakili on the 
 evening of the 2d of A^uguft, we met with two 
 men, on our way to Zebid, who were leading 
 aßes loaded chiefly with ßlver, ^vhich had been 
 received by the merchants from Egypt, for 
 coffee, and which they were fending to Mokha, 
 to purchafe India goods. This mode of car- 
 i7ing money about, was a proof to us, that 
 in this province there Were no fears from rob- 
 bers. 
 
 On the 3d of Auguft,, the Dola of Zebid was 
 obliged to furnifli us with provißons and ca- 
 mels. We had expeded to find the river Zebid, 
 confiderably fwoln ; but, near the city, its chan- 
 nel was entirely dry; the waters having been 
 turned oif, to overflow a great extent of the 
 adjacent fields which v/ere furrounded by dykes. 
 It fliouid feem that the waters are not fufiered. 
 to run in the channel of the river, till after they 
 have been plentifully diflributed over tlie coun- 
 try. The peafants confl:rucl their dykes in a 
 very Ample manner. After plowing up a field, 
 they yoke a plank of wood to tvvo oxen, lead 
 thefe over the field, till the plank is loaded with 
 earth, empty it upon the Ihie where the 
 dyke is to be drawn, and repeat this till it is. 
 formed. Wg. flopped to refl: for a few hours at 
 Maiijchid, and on the morning of the 5th of Au^. 
 guft arrived at Mokha. 
 
42.6 NIEBÜHr's TRAVELS 
 
 We had been extremely earnefl to return to 
 this city, left the Englifh fhip in which we in-= 
 tended to fail for India, might be gone before 
 pur arrival. But, feveral circumftances happened 
 to detain that vellel fome time longer at Mokha : 
 And we foon felt that we had travelled too 
 haftily in that fultry climate. I fell ill on the 
 8th of Auguft : Mr Baurenfeind' was confined 
 to his bed, within a few days after : and in a^- 
 fncrt time, Mr Cramer likewife, and all our 
 European fervants. We fortunately found our 
 friend Mr Scott ftill here, who kindly fupplied 
 as with European rcfrefliments, which did us 
 more fervice than we could have received from 
 the ufe of the beft medicines. But all his friend- 
 ly cares could not remove the lurking diftemper 
 which fopn afterwards broke out witli renewed 
 violence, and deprived me of all my remaining 
 fellow-travellers y as I fhall relate in the propei; 
 place^ 
 
 €ha?. Ill 
 
 Of the citj of Mohha. 
 
 This city Hands in a very dry and barren lita- 
 ation. Its fortifications are the walls which fur- 
 round itj fome towers on the way to Mufa^ 
 
 • whicl^ 
 
m ARABIA, ^r. 
 
 4-X 
 
 ^^hicli are dignified with the name of caflles, 
 and two other caftles of the fame fort, upon the 
 two arms of the harbour. The greatefl: of thefe 
 two caftles is called KaHa Tejar, and the fmall- 
 eft, KaHa Ahdurrab, from the. names of two 
 faints, buried in thefe two places. Thej are 
 provided with fome few pecies of cannon« 
 
 The houfes in the city ard built of ftone ; and 
 fome are handfome, in the ftyle of thofe of the 
 fuburb of Sana, However, there are others 
 both within and without the walls, no better 
 than the huts common through all the TehamSo 
 In the environs of this city are abundance of 
 date-trees and many agreeable gardens. 
 
 Mokha is not an ancient city. It was built a- 
 bout four centuries fince. It, like many other 
 cities in the Tehama, owes its origin to a faint, 
 the celebrated Schech Sdmdeli, This Scheck 
 acquired at that period fo great a reputation, 
 that perfons eagerly reforted from the moft dif-- 
 tunt countries to receive his inftru6lions. Some 
 of his devout difciples built huts round his her- 
 mitage, which ftood on the fea-fide. A fmall 
 village arofe on this fpot, and was by degrees 
 enlarged into a city. Hitherto its hiftory re- 
 fembles that of the other cities in the Tehama. 
 But, the rife of Mokha was attended with many 
 peculiar circumfiances, which deferve to be 
 mentioned^ as they are related by the Arabs; 
 
 Y^'hofe 
 
KIEBUH^RS TRAVELS, 
 
 v/hofe accounts feems to be founded in truth, 
 aithough dallied with a little of the mai;vel- 
 I0US5 in the ufaal tafte of the Arabian nation. 
 
 A fliip bound from India to Jidda^ caft an- 
 chor, one day, about four hundred years fincej 
 in thefe latitudes. The crew obferving a hut 
 in the defert, had the curiofity to go and fee it. 
 The Schech gave thofe ftrangers a kind recep- 
 tion, and regaled them with coflfee, of which he 
 was very fond himfelf, and to which he afcrib- 
 ed great virtues. The Indians who were unac- 
 quainted with the ufe of coffee, thought that this 
 hot liquid, might cure the mailer of their fiiip^ 
 who was iiL^ Schcedeli affured them, that, not 
 only ßiould he be cured by the efficacy of his 
 prayers, and of the coffee, but that if they 
 would land their cargo there, they might difpof^- 
 of it to confiderable advantage, Aifuming at 
 the fame time the air and tone of a prophet^ 
 he told them that a city fliould one day, be 
 built upon that fpot, v/hich w^as to become aa, 
 eminent mart of the Indian trade. 
 
 The merchant to whom the velTel belonged, 
 being ilruck with this lingular language, went 
 on iliore, to fee and converfe with this extraordi-, 
 nary man. He drank the coffee prefcribed by 
 the prophet, and found himfelf better. On the 
 fame day a great number of Arabs came to hear 
 the preacher in his hermitage. Among them. 
 
were feveral merchants, who purchafed the 
 whole cargo. The Indian returned home well 
 pleafed, and fpread the fame of the holy Schsede- 
 ii, fo that the place was foon frequented by ma- 
 ny of his countrymen. 
 
 An elegant mofque was raifed upon the tomb 
 of Schech Schaedeli, which ftands without the 
 walls of the prefent city. The well from which 
 'the common people draw water for drinking, 
 and one of the city gates, bear his name. His 
 defcendents are held in honour, and enjoy the 
 title of Schech. The people fweär by him. 
 The name of Shaedeli will be remembered as 
 long as Mokha ftands, 
 
 Befides, Schaedeli is not only the patron of 
 Mokha ; but all the Mufulmans who drink cof- 
 fee mention him every morning in their Pratha^ 
 or prayer, and efleem him aifo as their patron* 
 They invoke him not, but thank God for hav- 
 ing taught m.ankind the ufe of coffee, through 
 the mediation of Schaedeli, and implore the fa- 
 vour of heaven on the Schechs, his defcendents 
 
 A merchant of Mecca made an obfeivation 
 upon thofe faints, which I was furprifed to hear 
 from a Mahometan. The vulgar, faid he, muft 
 always have a vifible objed to fear and honour. 
 Thus, at Mecca, oaths, inflead of being addref- 
 fed to God, are pronounced in the name of Ma- 
 homet. At Mokhaj I would not truft a man 
 
 who 
 
43^ NIFBUHr's TRAVEli 
 
 who fhould take God to witnefs the truth of an^- 
 thing he happened to aflert : but I might much 
 more fafely depend upon him who fliould fwear 
 by Schech Schaedeli, whofe mofque and tomti 
 are before their eyes. 
 
 Mokha was the lall city in Yemen of 
 which the Turks retained poffeffion. It is faid 
 that the Arabs did not conquer, but buy it. 
 Since the Turks were difpoflelTed, it has never 
 iiad another mafter than the Imam, 
 
 A Dola having enriched himfelf in his govern^ 
 nient, had fortified the city^ and drawn a trench 
 round it, which is now filled up. . He was fuf~ 
 pedled of an intention to make himfelf independ- 
 ent ; but his views were fruftrated, and himfelf 
 call into prifon. From that time, a Dola has 
 never been continued above three years in this 
 lucrative government. After the monfoon fea« 
 fon, the Dola of Mokha is every year obliged 
 to give an account of his adminiftration, and i^ 
 then either confirmed in his employment, or in- 
 ilantly recalled to Sana. 
 
 I know not whether the Chriftians of the EafI 
 liave ever fettled at Mol<ha. A good many Jews 
 live here, in a feparate village, as in the other 
 cities of Yemen. Here are nearly feven hundred 
 Banians, Rajaputs^ and other Indians, fome of 
 whom are merchants, and others earn their live- 
 lihood by exercifing different mechanic arts. 
 
 When 
 
IN APLASIA, \£c, 431 
 
 When they have made a fiiiall fortune, thev 
 commonly return home to India : And on 
 this account are always looked uDon as ilran-^ 
 gers. 
 
 Chap. IV. 
 
 Bomhardme?2t of Alokha by the French. 
 
 1 could learn nothing of the hidory of this city| 
 except one event, which happened five and twen- 
 ty years nnce. I relate the circumiiances of 
 this tranfaclion, as they were recounted to me by 
 the Arabs ; for they will ferve to give an idea 
 of the power and policy of the Imam, 
 
 The Dola of Mokha often purchafes out of 
 the fhips from India, goods, of which the value 
 amounts to more than the fum due for cuuom- 
 houfe duties and other taxes. He takes thofe 
 goods upon the Imam's account, and always pro- 
 mifes to deducl the debt out of the duties which 
 may become due next year. But he continues, 
 year after year, to take new goods to account, 
 and the debt is thus increafed, and ftill remains 
 unpaid. By dealing for fome time in this man- 
 ner, the French Eaft India Company at length 
 
 fv.und the Imam 82,000 crowms in their debt. 
 VOL.L Eee , Thh 
 
432 
 
 NIEBUHR's tRAVELS 
 
 This Company became at lail anxious to ob- 
 tain payment of fo confiderable a debt, with- 
 out lofing, ho\Vever, their trade with Mokha ; 
 and therefore^ in the year 1738, fent a man of 
 war to efcort their merchant fliips. The cap- 
 tain, upon his arrival, acquainted the Dola, that 
 they were come to fell their cargo, but would 
 not land or fend their goods on Ihore, till his 
 debt to them ftiould be difcharged. The Dola 
 ilrove to amufe them with fine fpeeches, and to 
 perfuade them to land their goods. But the 
 French, to fliew what they could do, rendered 
 the caftle unfit for defence^ by a few difcharges 
 of their great guns, before the Arabs wxre aware 
 that they intended real hoftilities. 
 
 After this exploit, the conferences were re« 
 newed. The Dola Hill excufed himfelf, and 
 faid that he had no money, and no orders from 
 the Imam to pay the debt, but aUced fifteen 
 days refpite, till he faould receive orders from 
 Sana. Fifteen days expired, and no orders were 
 received. The French then difcharged a bomb 
 upon the Dola's houfe, by which an Arab was 
 killed. But this producing no decifive efFedSj, 
 fome other bornbs were thrown upon the mofquCy 
 upon a Friday, while the Dola was within, and 
 by thefe were feveral perfons killed. 
 
 The citizens, of whom a good number had by 
 this time loft their life for their fovereign'3 debt, 
 
 no^V 
 
I.H ARABIA, i^C, ^ 433 
 
 llQ„w. loft patience, aod obliged the governor to 
 take meafures to fatisfy his creditors. A treaty 
 was accordingly concluded ; and the French 
 landed their goods, and continued their trade as 
 before. Of all their crew, they loft only one 
 man, who had happened to fall afleep before 
 the door of his lodging in the town. An Ara- 
 bian foldier ftabbed himin revenge for the death 
 of a relation of his, who had been killed by a 
 bomb-ftiot. 
 
 The Dola was unable to make farther relift- 
 ^nce ; and had undoubtedly done all that was 
 in his power to ferve his mafter. The Imam 
 was, however, diflatisfied, recalled him, and 
 coniifcated his palace at Sana. A merchant of 
 Mokha, who had advanced a large fmn to fatif- 
 fy the demands of the French, had not received 
 payment, even at the time when we were there. 
 
 Several of the Arabs ftill recoiled this little 
 affair with pleafure, and remember, with a de- 
 gree of gaiety, thofe pots of fire, as they called 
 them to me^ wl-.ch purfued their Bola back- 
 wards and forwards^ wherever he Vv^ent. Since 
 that time the Arabs have entertained a high o~ 
 pinion of the military talents of the Europeans^ 
 In any Turkifti city, no Chriftians, of whatever 
 nation, could have been fafe from the fury of 
 the populace during fuch hoftilities. But, at 
 E e e 2 Mokha, 
 
434 
 
 nieeuhr's travels 
 
 Mokha, the Englifh and Dutch remained ii^ p,er<» 
 fed fecurity during this war with the French^ 
 (gg) 
 
 Cmap. V. 
 
 Of the Trade of Molha, 
 
 Several nations formerly traded to this port^ 
 which now frequent it no more. The Portu- 
 guefe, w^ho were, two centuries ago, very 
 powerful on the Arabic Gulph, have long fince 
 ceafed to fend fnips hither. The Butch rarely 
 appear here ; and the French never in time of 
 w^ar, although they fall continue to rent ware- 
 lioufes here. The Engiifh at prefent engrofs, 
 almoft excluiively, the trade of this place. Their 
 Eafl: India Company, indeed, fend only one 
 vefiel hither in two years, to take in a cargo of 
 coffee. But the trade is fo much the more ad- 
 vantageous to private merchants fettled in India. 
 In this year there had come five Engliili fhips 
 from different ports in India, not to mention 
 three others which proceeded ilraight to Jidda. 
 Since the time when an Engliüi m.erchant reh - 
 dent at Mokha, v/as maltreated by the populace 
 in the abfence of the fiiips, the Engiifh have al- 
 ways returned with their veifels to India, and 
 
 left 
 
IN ARABIA, l^-C, 435 
 
 left the management of their affairs, during 
 their abfence, to a Banian. 
 
 Since the trade of Mokh a is fo conliderable 
 the cuftoms cannot but afford a large revenue to 
 the Imam. The Turks, Arabs, and Indians are 
 obliged to carry their goods ftraight to the caf- 
 tom-houfe, to be there infpedled, and to pay 
 eight or ten per cent, upon their value, at the ar- 
 bitrary eftimation of the cuilom-houfe officers. 
 All Europeans enjoy the privilege of having their 
 goods infpeded in their ovv^n warehoufes, and of 
 paying only three per cent, upon their value. 
 Since the Englifli have become fo powerful in 
 Bengal, and have imported thofe goods vvhich 
 were formerly fiirnifhed by the Indians, they 
 have been required to pay only three per cent. 
 But the government continue to obfervc their 
 treaties, and yet to maintain their ancient riglus? 
 by making the merchants in Moldia pay likeu'ife 
 five per cent, on all Indian goods wiiich they 
 purchafe. 
 
 Befide the duties payable at the cuftomhoufe, 
 fhips pay another duty under the name of 
 chorage, which amounts to fome hundreds of 
 crowns, and is regulated, not by the tonnage of 
 the veffel, but by the number of its mafts. On 
 the other hand, a merchant, who lades a large 
 European fliip v»^ith coffee in this port, receives 
 
 from 
 
43Ö NIEBUHR-S TRAVELS, 
 
 from the Dola a premium of four hundred 
 crowns. 
 
 According to the obfervation of the Arabians^ 
 the monfoons are regular in thefe latitudes. The 
 north wind blows for ßx months, and the fouth 
 wind for other fix months. It is not to be fup- 
 pofed, however, that thefe are the only winds 
 known here. During the month of Auguft, e- 
 fpecially^ the wind blows from all the points in- 
 the horizon. An Englifh fhip bound for Jidda 
 .was obliged to return to Mokha, and to wait 
 there fome months for a favourable wind. 
 
 The Arabs have fcarcely any article for ex- 
 portation, except coöee, of which the Indians 
 ^^enot very fond. The Englifh fhips mull re- 
 turn empty to India^ if they did not gain conü» 
 derably by carrying money, with which the A- 
 rabian merchants entruft them, Thefe mer- 
 chants had freighted one Englifh veflel from Jid- 
 da, with a million of crowns ; and that on 
 board which we failed^, had 250,000 crowns of 
 theirs in fpecie. 
 
 Thefe furas are almoft always in European 
 coins, Venetian ducats, or German coins. It 
 may be fuppofed that other Englifh and Indian 
 vefTels carry alfo confiderable fums from Jidda 
 and Mokha. The fliips which fail from Bafra 
 to India, are in the fame manner freighted w^ith 
 
 money 
 
'm ARABIA, ^C. 
 
 437 
 
 money which has pafled from Europe through 
 Turkey. When to this we add the quantity of 
 fpecie carried diredly to India and China by the 
 nations of Europe, it appears that Europe muft 
 have been long iince exhaufted of gold and lii- 
 ver, were it not for the treafures imported from 
 America, 
 
 When a foreign velTel arrives in the road of 
 Mokha, it muft not falute with guns, but only 
 hoift a flag. The Dola then fends out a boat to 
 examine it, and learn the purpofe of its ap- 
 proach. If any difficulties are raifedj the cap- 
 tain needs only fay, that he will proceed toHo- 
 deida or Loheya. The Dola, unwilling to lofe 
 the prefents which he receives from every fhip^ 
 is foon brought by this means to hear reafon. 
 
 It would not be difficult for any other nation 
 to obtain the fame privileges which the Engliih 
 prefently enjoy at Mokha. But the trade on 
 the cbafts of the Red Sea can be advantageous 
 to no nation who have not fettlements in India. 
 The Arabians m.ake no ufe of the produöionsof 
 Europe. It w^ould be neceffary, therefore, to 
 fupply them w^itli India goods, and to take cof- 
 fee in return, which can be bought cheaper 
 from Ihips which take it in merely to avoid re- 
 turning empty. There is, indeed, a great quan- 
 tity of iron fold in Arabia, which the Englifn 
 purchafe chiefly from the Danes. It is, there- 
 
 forCj 
 
ni£buhr's travels 
 
 fore, probable, that the latter nation might find 
 their intereft in a dired trade with the goods of 
 Denmark, and our colonies between Tranque- 
 bar and Mokha. 
 
 It will not be amifs to add one flight obferva- 
 tion concerning the brokers of difierent nations. 
 A flranger cannot be too much on his guard a- 
 g-ainft Mahometan brokers. He will find his ac- 
 
 o 
 
 count in addrefiins; himfelf rather to the Banians 
 among whom are many confiderable merchants, 
 very honeft nien» Through all the countries in 
 the Eafl:, Mahometan merchants have the knave- 
 ry to feek to irritate the Chriftians, when, after 
 having duped them, they fear their reientment : 
 And then, when any term of reproach is uttered 
 "by the ftrangers in the heat of pafilon, the raf- 
 cally MuiTülmans make a great noife, under pre- 
 tence that their religion is abufed, and threaten 
 to complain to the magiftrates. Several Euro- 
 peans have been obliged to pay confiderable fums 
 by thefe arts of knaves vv'ho had previoufly cheat- 
 ed them, (h h) 
 
 Nqtes 
 
NOTES TO FOL. L 
 
 NOTE A. p. 12, 
 
 Phofphoric Light of the Sea, - 
 
 HE mofi careful obfervers have remarked, 
 that this light appears in various afpeds, owing, 
 mofl: probably, to a diverfity- of caufes. Of thefe 
 appearances, one fort feems to undulate round 
 the fides of veffels failing in the ocean, and ne* 
 ver fpreads lo any great diftance : Another fpe- 
 cies is obferved to arife in the courfe of long 
 calms, or immediately after them, and at th^ 
 termination of a feries of hot weather ; it fpreads 
 over the furface of the deep ; and feems even to 
 be intermingled with the waters : A third di- 
 verfity of thefe lights often covers the ocean to a 
 ftili wider extent, and is fo modified in its fiiin- 
 ing, as if il arofe from the bodies of different a- 
 nimals. 
 
 Vol, I, F f f Goncernini^ 
 
44Q N*OTES. 
 
 Concernhig the firft of thefe fea-Iighxts, it lias 
 been foo:gefted, that they are moft probably pro- 
 cnced by the operation of the laws of elearicity. 
 Tiie friaion occafioned by the rapid motion of a 
 flap tlirouo:h the waves, the bituminous fubftan- 
 ces upon the fides of velTels, the nails ilicking in 
 the bottom, aiad the conduding power of water, 
 are circumflances from which the evolution of 
 eleäirical matter, in this cafe, may be plaufibly 
 inferred. ■ 
 
 As to the fecond ; it is wtll known that many 
 animal bodies putrify and are diffolved in the fea, 
 and that almoft all animal matters, many mine- 
 ral fubliances, and even the atmofphere itfelf^ 
 contain pliofphoric acid. Inflammable matter 
 added to this acid, v^iil produce the fubilance 
 called pbofphoric acid. Large quantities of this 
 fubilance may therefore be formed in the ocean 
 by t he union of the phofphoric acid evolved from 
 various bodies, with the oily and other inflam- 
 mable particles difFufed in great abundance 
 through the waters. Hence, probably, this light, 
 which commonly fiicceeds calms, and hot wea-> 
 tber, and appears not to depend upon any cir- 
 cumftance that can be readily referred to in the 
 laws of eleöricity. 
 
 The third fort has every appearance of being 
 occafioned by living animals. The genera of 
 Sepi(s and MeduJ(s^ with fome fliell fifhes, are all 
 
 phofphorefcent. 
 
N o T^: s, 441 
 
 phofphoreicent. Some fpecies, too, of the ge- 
 nus Scolope/idra or Ceniipes, which fliine during 
 the darknels of the night, although land-infeclsj 
 are at times conveyed by the winds into Xht 
 fea. Oil the night of Oclober 3cth 1772, Dr. 
 Forfter faw a very beaatifnl exhibition of this 
 fort of fea-li^>ht, off the Ca/^e ofG^.od li^^pe, at 
 a fsw miles d ft ;nc^^ from the fhore, an. hile 
 a freüi gale biev., ^-i-' ^> examining, lii:e Mr 
 Forßial and Mr Niebubr, a üucket of the wa- 
 ter on which it was difplaycil, he was convin- 
 ced that it proceeded from living animalcules. 
 Dr Sparmann cbferved, in the years 1772 and 
 1775, that the Mollufca and Mediifcs, both phof- 
 phorefcent animals, were diffufed in fuch maf- 
 fes near the furface of the ocean, and moved 
 with fuch a niing and falling motion, as feemed 
 perfediy adequate to the produdion of the 
 phoenomenon. 
 
 See what is faid on this fubjecft by Pere Bourzes in the Lettres Edi- 
 fiantes ; Tome ix. Paris, 1730: Mr Canton in the Phil, Trans. Vol. 
 X. P. 446 : Forfler's obfervations in a voyage round the world. P. 
 Lond» 1778: Sparmann's voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, Vol. r. 
 p. 4, Engl. Trans. Lond. 1778. 
 
 NOTE E, p. 3. Mar fellies^ 
 
 Perhaps the reader may not be ill-pleafed to 
 find here feme fev/ particulars concerning this 
 F f f 2 celebrated 
 
44^ 
 
 N O T E S. 
 
 celebrated city, extracted chiefly from a very 
 amufmg late publication. 
 
 It is the moil ancient city in France. It was 
 founded by a colony of Aüatic Greeks. It was 
 long an independent commercial republic. At 
 length, in the progrefs of the Roman conquefts 
 in Gaul, Marfeilles was alfo fubdued by their 
 arms. Under the gentle government of the Ro- 
 mans» however, it flill continued to fiouriüi 
 in commerce, arts, and elegant literature. Its 
 opulence and glory perifned in the common ruin 
 of the Rom.an Empire. The advantages of its 
 lituation caufed its trade to revive, even in the 
 ages of Gothic barbarifm. Still, however, it only 
 langüiflied under the government of the Counts 
 of Provence. 
 
 Since its union with the other dominions of 
 the King of France, Marfeilles has enjoyed a 
 diftind municipal government and j urifdidion, 
 under magiftrates eleöed by the citizens. The 
 fubfidies which it pays for the fupport of the 
 French government are impofed by the King's 
 edidls, and am©unt to nearly one- third of the 
 • whole revenue paid by Provence. Its inhabi- 
 tants are eftimated at more than two hundred 
 thoufand ; and the progrefs of population and 
 buildings feems to be rapidly advancing. It 
 confifls of an Old and a Nev; Town ; the Old in- 
 habited chiefly by fifhermen, and other poor 
 
 people. 
 
people^ tlie New, one of the moil beautiful 
 towns in the world, for clear, fpacioiis and ex- 
 tenfive ftreets, elegant, commodious, and regu- 
 larly built houfes, is occupied bv rich families 
 whqfe only bußnefs is to enjoy their fortunes ; 
 and by thrieving merchants, tradefmen, and 
 manufadurers. The port exhibits a noble fpec- 
 tacle of commercial indufay : a promifcuous 
 and bufy multitude, confifcing of people of al- 
 mofl: all nations and languages, crowd the 
 quay ; and more than two thoufand vefTeis are 
 often to be feen in the harbour. The neigh^ 
 bouring territorry is thick fet with villas be- 
 longing to the opulent inhabitants of Marfeilles ; 
 the Marfeillefe trade to alniofl all the points of 
 the compafs, and their manufaclures are very- 
 various and extenfive. 
 
 I have extraded thefe particulars almofl en., 
 tirely from Lord Gardenßone'^ s travelling viemor- 
 andums : A book which does honour to the au- 
 thor ; being written w^ith fuch happy propriety 
 ofrefieäiion and obfervation, together with fo 
 much love of humanity, and thefe fo pleafmgly 
 coloured with a portion of the fpirit of the ele- 
 gant bon viva?it, that, (not to fpeak of the ufeful 
 and folid information which it contains,) I know- 
 not any book of travels, over which a few 
 hours m.ay be more agreeably whiled away. 
 
444 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 KOTE c. p. i5. Caiaconibs. 
 
 It would be a curious fu"bje6t of enquiry, and 
 would tend greatly to elucidate the phyficai hif-- 
 tory of the earth, and no iefs the hiilory of fo- 
 cieiy ; if we could trace the various forts of fub- 
 terraneous excavations, natural and artificial, 
 which have been formed or difcovered in dif- 
 ferent ages of the v^^orld. 
 
 Ii we adopt the opinion of many modern 
 philofophers, vv^hich indeed can hardly be con- 
 troverted, that, at the period which is common- 
 ly cileemed the sra of the creation of the world, 
 our earth was not actually raifed out of non- 
 exiilencc, but only moulded by the hand of the 
 Almighty into a nev/ form, after having previ- 
 oufiy undergone perhaps numberlefs fimJlar re- 
 volutions ; we are then obliged to take up its 
 phyiical hiftory in the middle, and to view it as 
 a broken fyilem, the imperfect part of vvhich no 
 efforts of human ingenuity can reuore. 
 
 Upon this idea, we muft give up the hope of 
 being able to clafs the various phcKnomena 
 which it exhibits. Among other things we 
 niufi find it impoffible to account for the natu- 
 ral excavations which are in different places 
 to be difcovered. Many of tliefe may be 
 t?ie ciTeds of earthquakes, fabterraneous rava- 
 ges by water or fire, and volcanic eruptions. 
 
 Some 
 
NOTES. 443 
 
 Some may have been produced by extraordinary 
 accidents vrliich have happened on the earth's 
 furface. 
 
 Thofe which have been formed by human art, 
 have generally been intended as places of ordi- 
 nary abode ; as temporary recelTes from danger ; 
 or as catacombs for the fepuiture of the dead. 
 Of the latter fort many fiili remain in Egypt, in 
 Alia, and through many places of the wcrld. 
 And it friould feem, that, efpecially where afües 
 er embalmed carcafes Vv'ere to be depofited, cata- 
 combs, hewn out in proper places under ground, 
 w^ere a much more fuitable contrivancCj than fu- 
 perb tombs, ereded above it, as fo many palaces 
 of corruption, darknefs and ßlence. 
 
 Another fort of artificial excavations have 
 been formed by the extradlion of rich materials 
 for human ufe, from the bovi-els of the earth. ' 
 
 NOTE D. p. 28. 
 
 This account of the imperfed (late of the 
 Turkiili navigation is confirmed by Savary, par- 
 ticularly in his letters on Greece ; by De Tott ; 
 and by every traveller or voyager who has vifit- 
 ed the Levant, or the Arabic Gulf. Thus are 
 navigation and comimerce in the m^ofi: languifh- 
 ing condition in thofe regions where they had 
 their origin, and where they firfi: civilized and 
 enriched mankind. 
 
 NOTE 
 
 / 
 
44^ 
 
 N O t £ S. 
 
 NOTE E, p. 31» 
 
 I CANNOT avoid taking tliis opportunity of 
 lecommeoding to the reader the obfervations of 
 Mr Ho vvard, and the valuable quarto in which Dr 
 RuiSei has lately laid before the public the refult 
 of his long and enlightened experience, on afub- 
 je6lof fuch curious and awful importance as the 
 plague» May we not hope that this dreadful 
 epidemical diftemper fhall be, one day, finally 
 extirpated from the earth, or like the fmall-pox^ 
 difaimed of its terrors ? 
 
 NOTE E. p, 34. 
 
 r HAV'E forgotten to what book of travels I 
 Ihould refer for the ftory of an'Engiiili fhip-cap- 
 tain, who, in confequence of a wager^ flew u 
 paper-kite over it, and by this means raifed a 
 ladder of ropes, by wdiich he and his comrades 
 afcended to the top of this celebrated pillar^ 
 where, they drank a bowl of punch very merrily^ 
 to the great ailonifliment of all v/ho faw them.. 
 
 NOTE p. 35. 
 
 Whoeveh knows any thing of the turbulence 
 and fantaftic fuperftition of the Chriftiaos of Egypt, 
 
 while 
 
NOTES. 447 
 
 while it formed a part of the Greek Empire, will 
 not very grievioufly lament, that triumphant 
 Mahometifm has taught them moderation at 
 leaft, if not good fenfe,j of which they were in- 
 capable, in profperity. 
 
 NOTE Ö. p. 37. 
 
 The reader of Dr Robertfon's enlightened and 
 elegant difquifition concerning the knowledge 
 which the inhabitants of Europe had of India 
 before the difcovery of the Cape of Good Hope,, 
 will there find fatisfadlory information concern- 
 ing the intercourfe of the Italians with Egypt^ 
 and the introdudtion of their coins and language 
 into that country. 
 
 NOTE H. p. 44. 
 
 The charm is not in the Mikklas, but in the 
 population and cultivation of the country. Ra- 
 venous animals, w^hether of the fea, or the land^j 
 are foon deterred by the frequent afped: of man. 
 Men, too, in their anxiety to rid themfelves of 
 fuch enemies, gradually thin their numbers 
 and at laft entirely exterminate them, 
 
 NOTE i. p. 56, 
 
 For the hiilcry of this race of Caliphs, the 
 Vol, Io g g I'eader 
 
448 
 
 NOTES« 
 
 reader will do well to confult Marigney, Ock- 
 ley, and the Univerfal Hiftory. 
 
 NOTE J. p. 57. 
 
 It fhould feem, that the difpofition of the in-> 
 habitants of cold climates to remain as much 
 within their houfes as poffible, has induced 
 them to rear thofe towering edifices which we 
 fee in the North of Europe : while a contra» 
 ry principle has made the people of mild, and 
 of warm climates, content themfelves with low 
 huts often. 
 
 NOTE K. p. 65, 
 
 The curiofities of Geefh are more fully ex» 
 plained by Mr Bruce, and fome other late tra* 
 vellers. 
 
 NOTE M. p. 75. 
 
 For the hiftory of Bey, I muft refer the 
 reader to the travels of Savary, Volney, Lufig- 
 nan, and Bruce. 
 
 NOTE 
 
NOTES. 
 
 449 
 
 NOTE N. p. 80. 
 
 The hiftory of Ibrahim is to be feen in 
 Bruce. 
 
 NOTE o^ p. 8ie 
 
 The adventures of Ali Bey, and the confe- 
 quences of his defeat, have been narrated at 
 length by the travellers referred to in note M. 
 
 NOTE p. p. 87. 
 
 The formation of the Delta has been a fiib- 
 jed: of fpeculation with every writer concerning 
 Egypt, from Herodotus to Bruce. — The reader 
 who is curious on this head, will do well to con- 
 fult Herodotus, Maillet, Bruce, and Savary. 
 
 NOTE Qj. p. 118. 
 
 Such a teftimony as this, for the veracity of 
 our fair country-woman. Lady Mary, muft go 
 farther in her favour, than the afperflons of twen- 
 ty De Totts againft her. 
 
 G g g 2 
 
 NOTE 
 
KOTES, 
 
 NOTE R. p. 137. 
 
 These anecdotes of the (late of eailern mufic 
 ferve to confirm the received ideas concerning 
 the rudenefs of the Jewifh mufic, and the fim- 
 plicity of that of the ancient Greeks, 
 
 NOTE S. 150. 
 
 In India, in the north of Afia, in ancient Tuf- 
 cany, in Afijria in Ireland, if we will truft Mr 
 Ledwich, and, perhaps, in the South> Sea iflands, 
 have been fuch nations as th-ofe here alluded to» 
 
 NOTE u. p. 164. 
 
 Those who are curious to profecute invefiiga^ 
 lions refpeding the pyramids, vv'ould do well to 
 confult Governor Pownali's Efiay on the Study 
 of Antiquities ; a worl^ written in a very invol- 
 ved and perplexed fiyle indeed, yet with great 
 force of language, vv^ith extraordinary powers of 
 penetration and invention, and with a very un- 
 common difplay of liberal, enlightened erudition, 
 
 NOTE V. p, 195. 
 
 I SHALL here refer the reader^, for farther infor-, 
 
 mation 
 
KOTES* 
 
 mation concerning thefe places, not only to Shaw 
 and Pococke, but more efpecially to a fmal] work 
 intituled, A Journal from Grand Cairo to Mount 
 Sinai and hack again, translated from an Italian 
 mannfcript, hy the Right Reverend Robert Lord 
 BiJJjop of Clogher : Printed at London, by the 
 learned William Bowyer, in 1753. 
 
 NOTE w. p. 198. 
 
 This circumilance is particularly worthy of 
 notice, for its relation to the miracle by which 
 a path was opened through the Red Sea, for the 
 efcape of the* jfraelites, — and the Egyptians 
 drowned in attempting to purfue them. In my 
 eye the miraculous nature of that event is not 
 lefTened by the fad here üated, 
 
 NOTE X. p. 199. 
 
 We have all obferved how greatly objects 
 are magnified, when feen through miit. 
 
 NOT^: Y. p. 199 
 
 Concerning this canal, the reader may fee 
 Herodotus, the late travellers in Egypt, and 
 Robertfon's difquifition, 
 
 NOTE 
 
452 
 
 K O T E S. 
 
 NOTF Z. p. 207, 
 
 It occurs to me, as the mofi probable con- 
 jeclure on this head, that this might have been 
 the original burying place of fome tribe or fa- 
 mily, who were afterwards induced to advance 
 nearer the fea-coall, and cultivate the arts, but 
 Hill retained the fame veneration for the fepul- 
 chres of their fathers, which made Jacob and 
 jofeph fo defirous that their bones might be 
 carried into the land of Canaan. It is truely 
 difficult to judge of the principles of condud: 
 upon which thofe people acted, who could raife 
 fuch piles of buildings as the pyramids for bury- 
 ing places. 
 
 NOTE AA. p. 233. 
 
 The reader of Mr Pennant's Britifh Zoology 
 will find, that fome equally ingenious expedients 
 are pradiied in England for taking feveral forts, 
 of wild fowls, 
 
 MOTE BE. p. 239. 
 
 FaPvTher and later information concerning 
 Jidda and its trade will be found in ßruce's Tra- 
 vels. 
 
NOTES* 453 
 
 vels. The reader may alfo confalt Hamilton's 
 account of the Eaft Indies. 
 
 NOTE cc. p. 286. 
 
 Whep.e inns are maintained by charitable ho- 
 fpitality, or at the public expence, or are imper- 
 fedly furniüied with articles for the accommo.. 
 dation of travellers ; in all thefe inftances, the 
 country mufl certainly be indifferently civilized, 
 or thinly inhabited, and travelling not frequent. 
 I know not if any fpeculations could exhibit fo- 
 ciety in a more interefting light, than a Hiftory 
 of Hofpitality. 
 
 NOTE EE. p, 289. 
 
 Not only in Arabia and Iceland, but in Ire- 
 land, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, in the 
 Hebudae, in moß: countries in Europe and in 
 all parts of the world, are Bafaltic columns to 
 be found. All rocks are either ft ratified or co- 
 lumnar ; a diftindlion which feems to befpeak a 
 diverfity of origin. This mineralogifts have 
 laboured to explain, whether fuccefsfully or 
 not, I fhall not prefume to fay. 
 
454 
 
 NOTE FF. p. 315. 
 
 How late is it in the progrefs of focial life^ 
 "before the wrathful paffions of the human heart 
 are entirely fubjeded to impartial, diiinterefted 
 law I 
 
 NOTE FF. 2, p. 422. 
 
 I would here fuggell to the reader, that, on 
 the fubjed of the Gy plies, he may perufe with 
 advantage and pleafure, a curious hiftorical ef- 
 fay which has been tranllated from the German 
 by Mr Raper. 
 
 NOTE GG. p. 434 
 
 Some additional llories of this call, relative 
 to the dealings of European merchants with the 
 Arabians in the ports of the Red Sea, are to be 
 found in Hamilton's account of theEall Indies. 
 
 NOTE HPi. p. 438^ 
 
 In Mr Bruce's tfavels the reader will find 
 fome valuable information concerning the com - 
 mercial intercourfe of the Europeans from their 
 oriental fettlements, with the Arabians and 
 Egyptians, by the way of the Red Sea. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
ERRATA.-^VOL. 1. 
 
 Pag^e lotli, line 8th from the bottom^ for mrie rcTid fifteen, 
 
 P. i 8tli, line 4th. from the bottom, for 2600 read 26,000. ' 
 
 P. 2 1 ft, Hne 15th, from the top, for Beut read Bent ; 
 and alfo in line 1 6th. 
 
 P. 23d, line 6th, from the top, for Tripolis read Tripoli, 
 Same page, line 6th, from the bottom, for clergyman read 
 Catholic clergyman, 
 
 P. 69th, line I Ith, from the top, for the inlands read 
 their lands. 
 
 P. 76th, line 7th, from the bottom, for tho read the, 
 
 P 1 14th, line 1 3th^ from the top, for fiaved read feaven^ 
 
 and line 15 th, for it read them. 
 
 P. 1 5 2d, line ift, top, for mun read muß., 
 
 P. 163d, line loth, from the top, for coffer read coßln, 
 
 P. 190th line 8th, from the bottom, for dißance ivhere 
 
 our tentSy read dißance from where our tents. 
 
i