PERKINS LIBRARY Duke U, iversity Kare Dooks C •/, ^'*^^^^^t CILLCTT THE YOUNG GARDENER'S CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD, FOR IHE CULTIVATION OF SOME OF WHICH ARE NOT GENERALLY INTRODUCED INTO THE UNITED STATES. BY T. BRIDGEMAN, U iRDESER, SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST, NEW-YORK Ibe end of ail instruction, should be tlie attainment ov useful knowledge." BROOKLYN: TKINTIP BY NICHOLS AND MATTHEWS, 156 Fl/LTON-^T. 1829. ■'Southern District of New-York, ss : BE IT RF.MEMBEKED, That on the iwenty-nfih day o( Feb. A. D. 1829, in the fiity-lhird year of the Independence o4" the United States of America, Thomas Bridgeman, of the said district, hath deposited in this otRce the title ot a book, the light whereof he claims as author in the words following, to wit : " The Young Gardener's Assislant : containing a catalogue of Garden and Flower Seeds, witli practical directions under each head, for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables ; some of which are not generally introduced into the United States. Hy T. Bridgeman, Gardener Seedsman and Florist, New-York. " 'The end of all instruction should be tbe attainment of useful knowlpdge.'" la conformity to the act of Congress of (In^ United Slates, entitled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by se- ruring the copies of inapj, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of sjch copios, during the times therein raen- 1 toned;" and also, to an act, entitled, " An act suppleraenta- vy to an act, enlillnd, an act for the encouv.igement of learn- ing, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and boolc?, to thti authors and proprietors of such copies, during the time there- in mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts ®f (Icsixnina;, engraving, and etching historical and other prints. " FRED. J. BETTS, CIc'k of the Southern District of INew-York. PREFACE. ^O^r/V TiiE object of this little work is to enable oiirres*' pcctable seedsmen, while they are furnishing a cata- logue of seeds for the use of the Kitchen and Flow- er Garden, to afford instructions at a trifling expenst- to such of their customers, as may not have a regu- lar gardener, and thereby save themselves the blame of those who may not give their seeds a fair trial, for want of knowing how to dispose of them in the ground, The author asks no preference over his fellow tradesmen in this department. He believes that the world is wide enough for all, and is willing that every man should keep his own custom ; and being aware, that however anxious seedsmen may be to sell such seeds as will please their customers, they arc sometimes charged with dishonest intentions from the failure of seeds, when the fault lies not with them, but with the gardener. He will endeavor, therefore, in his humble way, to render himself useful, both to the seedsman and the gardener, by giving brief direc- tions for the management of the Kitchen Garden, in such a way as to insure success. In doing this he would remind the public, that as brevity must be consulted in this work, he cannot be expected, in a few pages, to do that justice to a subject which is only to be found in the books of eminent horticultu- rists. He hopes, however, to be sufficiently explicit IV PREFACE. i9 give his readers, a taste for the pleasurable ai)^ profitable, as well as healthful employment of garden- ing and thereby lead them to the perusal of other n'orks of a more extensive nature He also intends to devote a few pages to the attention of our fair country women, and direct them to a rational and de- lightful recreation. To this end he will, (after fur- nishing a catalogue of some of the most esteemed kinds of flower seeds,) give brief directions for pro- moting the growth of these seeds, while in the seed bed, leaving it to their own good taste and judge- ment to arrange the plants of these beauties of na- ture, so as to set them off to the best advantage. The author is aware that the occupation of garden- ing is attended with difficulties, but he flatters himself that in proportion as his readers feel interested in the welfare of their vegetable progeny, in like proportion will they obtain pleasure and satisfaction in their suc- cessful employment. To obtain this, he would re- commend them to make up their minds as to what ve- getables or flowers they intend to introduce into their gardens, and then, after having procured good seeds, let them have every suitable implement ready to be- gin the work at the proper seasons for preparing and planting the garden. These will be shown in the f-^ ' lowing pages, interspersed with directions on some other important subjects connected with this under- taking. T. BRIDGEMAN. Bovvery Road, January, 1829. GENERAL REMARKS. Before I commence the Catalogue, it may be necessary for me to direct the reader^s attention to some important matters e?sential to the good man- agement of a garden. The mode of laying out the ground, is a matter of taste, and may be left to the gardener himself^; the form being a thing of trifling importance in the pro- duction of useful vegetables, or whether the ground be laid out in beds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be well worked, and the garden kept neat and free from weeds. Tho-e who have not a garden already formed, should, however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep ; but as we have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader to that which is within the reach, and ought to be the object of every maUj namely, to make the most of what he has. Previous to entering on the work of the garden, the gardener should lay down rules for his future govern^ ment. In order to this, he should provide himself with a blank book. In this book he should first lay out a plan of his garden, allotting a place for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his grounds, if he were to keep an account of every thing he docs relative to his garden, he would soon obtain s-i^me knowledge of the art. This the writer ha& 1* 6 GENERAL REMARKS. done for the last nine years, and he flatters himself that a publication of the results of his practice, will be interesting and useful to his readers. One great article to be attended to is, to have a sup- ply of good old manure and other composts ready te incorporate with the earth ; also a portion of ashes, soot, tobacco dust and lime, for the purpose of sow- ing over seed beds in dry weather ; this will tend in a great measure to destroy insects which sometimes cut off the young plants as fast as they come up. If the ground cannot be all manured as it should be, it is of primary importance that those vegetables be provided for which most need manure. A peru- sal of the catalogue will enable the young gardener to judge of the kinds of garden products which re- quire most. Lest I should not have been explicit eiiough in this particular, I would inform him that good rich manure is indispensably necessary for the production of Brocoli,Cauliflower,Cabbage, liCttuce. Spinage, Onions, Radishes and Salads in general. In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those kinds of vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, may be provided for by disposing of the manure im- mediately under the seeds or plants. The next important matter is to have the ground in suitable condition to receive the seed. I would wish it to be understood, tliat I am an advocate for early sowing and planting, even at thcrisk of loosing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to receive it. A light sandy soil will be benefitted if worked when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency to make it more compact ; on the contrary, if a clay soil be worked when too wet, it kneads like dough, and ne» GENERAL REMABKS. 7 ver fails to bind when drought follows, and this not only prevents the seeds from rising, but injures the plants materially in their subsequent growth, by its becoming impervious to the moderate rains, dews, air and influence of the sun, all which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation. Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recom- mend certain fixed days for sowing and planting par- tictdar kinds of seeds ; I think it necessary to guard my readers from being misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seeds be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they be sown in very dry weather, the germinative parts of the seed may become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or the young plants may get devoured by insects as fast as they come up. To obviate these difficulties, I have generally allowed a week or ten days for the sowing of the seeds, intending the medi- um as the proper time for the vicinity of New York. With this clearly borne in mind, the reader, who ob- serves the difference in the degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of the country, will know how to apply these instructions accordingly. Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds of soils. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, is to give the former such dressings of clay, cow dimg and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and make them more com- pact, and consequently more retentive of moisture ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes, sand, and 4uch other composts as may tend to separate the par- S GENERAL REMARKS. tides and open the pores of the clay so as to cause it to approach as near as possible to a loam. The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less retentive will it be of moisture ; the more to a clayey, the longer will it retain it ; and the finer the particles of which the clay is composed, the more te- nacious will it be of water, and consequently be lon- ger in drjfing, and the harder when dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the longest, without hecoming hard ivhetidry, is that of all others, the best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest perfection. This last described soil is cal- led loam, and is a medium earth, between the ex- tremes of clay and sand. I have in most cases recommended drills to be made at certain depths for the dilTerent kinds of seeds, and when I have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is intended that the seeds should be covered only one inch, which they will be when plan- led in these drills and covered — and so in proportion I'or any other depth required. This may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circumstances alter oases ; if for instance, some particular crops should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be far advanced to risk, a further planting of seeds, even if the weather be hot and the ground dry ; if these be planted a little deeper, they may escape the violent jieat of the sun, and in the event of a shower, the ground wou'd become sufficiently moist to bring r:iem up , whereas, it sometimes happens that seed vown after a shower do not vegetate until after the season is too far advanced to bring the crop to per- fection. GENERAL REMARKS. The work of drilling may be performed in various ways ; in some cases a plough is used, in others a small hoe,or a dibble drawn along the edge of a board or line ; it is of little consequence which way the work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that he be provided with two or three drilling- machines ; these, every handy man may make fo^* himself; they should be in the form of a garden rake, with a stout heavy back and five teeth two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the ground and leave drills two mcnes deep. If one be made with the teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another four- teen, they wiil oe useful in making drills for various seeds, and drills thus made, serve,instead of straining a line, for every row in planting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leeks, &c. the line being strained at one edge of the bed,and the drylling machine drawn strait by the line, makes five drills at once. If they are straight they may be kept o by keeping one drill open for the out- side tooth to v;ork in until the ground be all drilled. Gardeners ;>ractice difierent methods of covering up seeds, soaie do it with a hoe, others with a rake or harrow ; some draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed, and after sowing the seeds, re turn it regu- larly over ihe bed ; in some particular cases a sieve is used, in ..tbers a roller. Rolling or treading in seeds is necessary in dry seasons, but it should never be [done when the ground is wet. There is nothing that protects young crops of Tur- nips, Cabbage and other small plants from the depredation of the fly, so well as rolling ; for when the surface is rendered completely smooth, these in« iO GENERAL REMARKS. sects are deprived of the harbour they would other- wise have under the clods and small lumps of earth. This method will be found more efTectual than soak- ing the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants with any composition whatever ; but as the roller must only be used previous to, or at the time of sow- ing the seed, and not even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the gardener should have a hogs- hond always at hand in dry weather, containing infu- sions made of waste tobacco, lime, soot, cow dung, riJc", burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these ingre- dients, or any other preparation that is pernicious or poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, tlirown into a hogshead kept fdled up with water, if used moderately over beds of young plants in dry v.cathcr, would, in almost every case, insure a suc- cessful crop. If it be necessary at any time to sow seeds in dry weather, it is recommended to soak the seed in water mixed with sulphur. This practice, with attentive Avatcring, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. If it should be requisite to transplant any thing wher. the ground is dry, the transplanting* should be always done as soon as the earth is fresh turned over, and the roots of the plants should be steeped in mud made of rich compost, before they are set out. I have in most cases recommended seeds to be sown in drills drawn from S to 12 inches apart, in prcforonce to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily destroyed by means of a small hoe ; and which, properly used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants. CATALOGUE, &c. Artichoke. — Cijnara, Varieties. — There are two principal varieties or spe- cies of ike Garden Artichoke ; — the Cynara Scolij- mus or French Artichoke, and the Cynara Horten- sis or Globe Artichoke, It is a perennial plant, producing from the root an- nually its large squamose heads, in full growth, in England, in June or July until October or November. The Globe Artichoke, which produces large globular heads, is best for general cultuve, the heads being •considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick ;iiid fleshy. Both sorts may be raised from the seed, or young tjuckers from the bottom taken off in the spring. A plantation of Artichokes will continue to produce good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer ; but it must be observed, thai if a supply of this de- licious vegetable be required throughout the season, a small plantation should be made from suckers every spring for a successive crop, as the young plants will not produce their heads in perfection till after t!ic crops of the old standing ones are over. The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes in this country, is to sow the seed in the latter end of March or early in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may be planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches apart. The ground should be light 12 ARTICHOKE. and moist, not such as is apt to become bound up bj heat, or that in consequence of too large a proportion of sand is Ukely to become violently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to these plants. After the plants are up, .they should be kept free from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. At the approach of winter they should be covered up with straw, leaves, or light dry litter, and they will be fit to transplant in the following spring. The business of transplanting must be performed the latter end of March or early in April. Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation^ lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incorpora- ting the manure therewith ; this being done, take up the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in rows five feet asunder, and two feet plant from plant in the row, leaving part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to settle the roots. The following method of planting Artichokes is practiced in Berkshire, (Eng.) the plants are placed in rows three feet and a half or four feet apart in the rows, and so deep that a basin may be formed round each plant, as it is fond of water, and in the fall these basins are filled up by drawing the earth into them, and the plant is covered up two or three inches by rounding up the earth over them. Some make new plantations with the seeds at once^ fliis may be done by preparing the ground as above, and sowing a few grains of good fresh seed in each ARTICHOKE. 13 5pot where a plant might be set, covering them about three quarters of an inch deep, and then by marking each spot with a peg stuck in the ground, the vacant places may be planted with Cauliflower, Cabbage Plants, Dwarf Beans, Lettuce, &c., taking care to keep the plants at a sufHcient distance from the young Artichokes. The Winter dressing of Artichokes is an importan*: operation ; on it depends much of their future suc- cess. This should not be given them as long as tho season continues mild, that they may have all possi- ble advantage of growth, and be gradually inured to fthe increasing cold weather; but it should not be de- ferred to the setting in of hard frost, lest the entire work be lost. In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the ground, leaving- the small ones which rise from the hearts of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a trench in the middle, betvv^een each row, Ironi fourteen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the i-ows are five feet apart, as directed. Then lightly dig the surface of the beds from trench to trench, bu- rying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather th<> earth round the crowns of the plants to the height of about six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising leaves, without burying them entirely yndcr it ; this done, dig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth equally between and on each side of the plants, so as to level the ridges, giv- ing them at the same time a neat rounding form ; fin- ish by casting up with a shovel the loose earth out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in ^Drder that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., 2 14 ARTICHOKE. may immediately run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gentle declivity, as the lodge- ment of water about the roots in Winter is the great- est evil and danger they have to encounter, even greater than the most severe frosts that we are sub- ject to. The beds are to remain so, until there is an ap- pearance of hard frost, when they should be cover- ed with light dry litter, straw, leaves of trees or the like, the better to preserve the crowns and roots from its rigour. In this manner, the roots will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above ground, or rather one or two inches up, then, and not before, proceed to levelling down the beds into the alleys or trenches, rounding them in a neat manner ; then dig and loosen alLthe earth round the plants; at the same time, examine the number of shoots arisinor on each stool or root, selecting three of the strongest and healthiest looking on every stool to remain ; all ab' >ve that number are to be slipped off close to the roots with the hand, unless you want such to make new plantations with, in which case, any extra number for that purpose are to remain on the mother plants, until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots, or junction with the old plants, when they are to be slipped ofFand planted in a bed prepa- red in the same manner as directed for the young plants, taking care at the same time to close the <;arth about the crowns of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remaining suckers. ASPARAGUS. 15 Observe, the Spring dressing is to be given when the plants are in the above described state, whether that happens in February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of climate, or the earliness or late- ness of the Spring. The gardeners, near London, generally take off the side suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the markets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger and handsomer. The maturity of a full grown Artichoke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it should always be cut off before the flower appears in the centre ; the stem should be cut close to the grodnd at the same time. When year Artichoke plantations want manure, lay on a coat of old rotten dung, previous to the digging of the trenches in November, and cover it over with the earth as you ihrow it up ; in the spring following, dig it in. »^9 Asparagus. — Officinalis. Varieties. — Gravesend — Baltersea — Large While Reading. Asparagus plants may be raised by sowing the seeds in the Fall as soon as ripe, or in March, and the early part of April. It requires some of the best ground in a garden. The seed may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches assunder, and covered half an inch with light earth. When the plants 16 ASPARAGUS. are up they will needacareful hoeing, and they should afterwards be kept free from weeds. The seed sown in the Fall generally makes the strongest plants, and will be fit to transplant into beds when tliey are a year old. A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed every year, will continue to produce good buds for twenty years or more. New plantations of Asparagus may be made in the juonths of March and April. The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn, but such as is moderately light and pliable, so as it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that enjoys the full Sun. It should have a large supply of good rotten dung three or four inches thick, and then be regularly trenched two spades deep, and the dung buried equally in each trench, twelve or fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is done, lay on two or three inches of well rotted manure all over the surface, and dig the ground over again, eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing and incorporating it well with the earth. The ground being thus prepared and laid level, divide it into beds four feet and a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between each bed. xVt each corner of every bed, let a firm stake be dviven into the ground, to serve as a mark for the al- leys. Four rows of Asparagus are to be planted in each bed, and ten or twelve inches distance to be al- lowed between plant and plant in the row ; and let the outside rows of each bed, be eight inches from the edge. ASPARAGUS. 17 Strain your line along the bed eight inches from the edge ; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the line nearly upright, and when one trench is opened, plant that before you open another* placing the plants upright ten or twelve inches dis- tance in the row. The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading their roots somewhat regularly against the back of the trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due j>osition until the" row is planted ; when one row i.> thus placed, with a rake draw the earth into the trench, over the plants, and then proceed to open an- other drill or trench as before directed ; and fill ami cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole is planted ; then let the surface of the beds be rakefi smooth and cleared from stones. Some make new plantations with the seeds at once: this may be done by preparing the ground as before directed, and planting a few grains of seed in each place allotted for a plant ; they should be afterwards thinned, leaving the strongest plants to stand at the same distances every way as before. A plantation of Asparagus, thus raised, will pro- duce buds fitjto cut the third Spring after sowing, bdl will be^ very large and fine the fourth year. 2* 18 ASPARAGUS. JVinter Dressing of Asparagus Beds. About the beginning of November, if the stalks of your Asparagus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having finished their growth for the season, cut them down close to the earth, carry them oft' the ground, and clear the beds carefully from weeds. Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good manure : lot it be laid equally over the beds, two or three inches thick, after which, stretch a linc^ and with a spade mark out the alleys from eighteen inches to two feet wide, agreeably to their original dimensions. Then dig the alleys one spade deep, and spread a considerable quantity of the earth evenly over the beds ; observe to make the edges of the beds straight, full, and neat, and to finish your work in a becoming manner, giving a moderate rounding to the beds, es- pecially if the ground be inclined to wet. The alleys should be afterwards filled up with leaves or litter well trampled down, which would in some measure, prevent the frost from entering that way to the Asparagus roots. The Seedling Aspara- gus should also have a slight dressing ; that is, to clear the bed from weeds, and then to spread an inch -or two in depth of dry rotten dung over it, to defend the croAvn of the plants from frost. Spring Dressing of the Beds. This work should be done from about the latter end of March, to the middle of April. For the pur- pose of digging or forking these beds, you should be provided with a proper fork, having three short tines, perfectly flat, and about an inch broad ; however, ii^ ASPARAGUS. 19 want of such, it may be performed with a small short pronged dung fork. In forking the beds, be careful to loosen every part to a moderate depth, but taking great care not to go too deep to wound the crowns of the roots. The above work of forking these beds is most ne- cessary to be done every Spring, to improve and loos- en the ground, and to give free liberty for the buds to shoot up. The beds being forked, they must afterwards be raked even ; observing, if you do not rake them im- mediately after they are forked, to defer it no longer than the first week in April, at which time a few Rad- ish seeds may be scattered over them, to pull up while young. Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to cut for general uso, in less than three years from the time of planting. But in the fourth year, when the shoots are three or four inches high, they Avili bear extensive cutting. The best way of cut- ting, is to slip the knife down perpendicularly, close to each shoot, and cut it off slantingly, about three or four inches within ths ground, taking care not to wound any young buds coming up from the same root, for there are always several shoots advancirc jn different stages of growth. 20 BEANS. Beans. — (Eng. Dwarfs.) — Vicia faba. Varieties. — Early Mazagan — Early Lisbon — Ear- ly Long Pod — Sword Long Pod — Large Windsor — Kentish Windsor — Taylor^ s Windsor — Large Taker — Sandwich Dean — JMumford — Green Genoa — Green Windsor — White Blossomed — Red Bios- somed — Dwarf Cluster — Broad Spanish — Green JS^oiipareil — Turkey Long Pod — and Common Field or Horse Bean. The principal cause of this garden product not suc- ceeding well in this country, is occasioned by the Summer heat overtaking them before they are podded , causing the blossom to drop off prematurely ; conse- quently, the crops are poor and scanty — to obviate this difficulty, they should be planted as early in the year as possible. They are generally planted in England, from October to April, for early crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It sometimes happens that their early plantings are injured by the extremity of their Winters, but they never miss having an average crop. In order to insure success here, I would recom- mend those who are desirous of obtaining a tolerable, supply of these vegetables, to plant them early, as it will be recollected that they will be deficient in quality as well as in quantity, on the approach of the warm weather. If the ground should be frozen the last week in January, or early in February, they may be sown in boxes of earth placed in a light cellar, or inearth on the floor, and afterwards transplanted. If this is not done, let them be planted as soon afterwards as possible, in drills two or three inches deep, and if it should happen that they cannot be BEANS. 21 planted by the middle of February in the place where they are to stand, let some of the early kinds be sown pretty thick in a bed of light earth ; and when come up to an inch or two in height, transplant them iri rows from thirty inches to three feet asunder, accord- ing to the size and kind, and the Beans two or three inches distant in the rows. Th« method is this : dig a bed about three or four feet broad, of good earth, in a warm situation ; this being done, draw broad drills with a small spade, or common hoe, flatways across the bed, and scatter the Beans pretty thick in the drill, and draw the earth equally over them ; and thus, if severe frosts should prevail before they come up, or in their infant state while remaining altogether in the bed, they can be readily protected from frost, with frames, mats, or litter, until fit to transplant. As soon afterwards as the weather is favourable, let them be taken up carefully out of the seed bed, with their full spread roots, and as much earth as will hang about them, and be carefully transplanted as before directed, observing to close the earth lightly about every plant. They will soon take root and grow freely. This method is considered by some as pre- ferable to the general method of planting them in the place where they are to stand, and it is said, that by transplanting they generally bear several days sooner. It may be necessary to observe that a strong heavy soil is the most suitable, but they often do well in moderately light low ground. The early kinds may succeed if planted in the month of March, and it is only from those early sown that any tolerable produce may be expected in the United States, especially in the middle and southern parts. 22 BEAT?*. The Mazagan and Lisbon are the earliest, th« White Blossom Bean is very delicious, and boils much greener than any other kind ; but the Genoa bears the heat of our climates better than either of the others, and therefore is the most suitable for late crops. The Long Podded Bean is very good, and bears well ; but the Windsor, Sandwich, Toker, and Broad Spanish kinds, are more esteemed than any other. The Dwarf Cluster Bean is a great bearer, never grows above a foot or fourteen inches high, and may be planted in rows, either in beds or borders, the rows to be about two feet asunder, and as this kind branches out considerably from the root, the r>cans musl be planted in single rows, and five or six inches distant from one another. If all the different varieties are planted at one time, ihev will come into bearino" in a regular succession? according to their diflerent degrees of earliness — and it will be necessary to repeat the planlings every two weeks from January to the latter end of March. As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, tliey will need a careful hoeing, and if some earth be drawn up to their stems, three or four times in the course of their growth, it will greatly refresh and strengthen them. When they arc arrived at full bloom, and the lower nods beginning to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the proper time, it will greatly pro- mote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops to nourish, the whole cflort of the root will go to the support of the fruit. BtANS. 23 Beans. — (Kidney Dwarfs.) — Phascolus. Varieties. — Early Yelloiv Cranberry — Early Mo- haivk— Early Dwarf Cluster— Early Yellow Six Weeks— Early Dun Colored or Quaker— Early China Dwarf— Early Black Dwarf— Large Whitr Kidney Dwarf— White Cranberry Dwarf— Red Cranberry Dwarf— Warrington or Marrow — Re- fugee or Thousand to One — Rob Rey — White Cut- lass Bean of Carolina — Bonavista, These kinds of Beans being all excellent, I shall leave my readers to choose for themselves. Tho early kinds will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks after planting. Some of the other kinds will keep longer in bearing, and are esteemed by some on that account. These, with some of the early kinds, may be planted in the months of May and June. If a regular succession of young Beans be wanted throughout the summer, some of the early kinds should be planted every two weeks from the last week in April until the beginning of August. These Beans require light rich soil, and may be planted in hills (three or four in a hill) or drills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each other ; the drills may be from two and a half to three feet apart. (The Refugees are best plant- ed in hills.) As the Beans progress in growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing the earth up to their stems at the same time, and they will be soon fit for thr table. The Bonavista is a new Dwarf Bean, by inau^v considered equal to Lima Beans. They grow nearly two feet high. S4 BEANS. Beaxs. — (Pole or Running.) — Phaseolus Limensis, Varieties. — Large While Lima — Sieva or Caro- lina. Phaseolus. Varieties. — Scarlet Runners — While Dutch Rtm- rurs — Dutch Case Knije or Princess—Red Cran- brrry — White Cranberry. The Beans of the latter species may be planted the latter end of April, and in May ani June, either in hills three feet distant from each other, or in drills about two inches deep. The poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in the ground before t\\9 Beans are planted. The Carolina and Lima Beans should not be planted in the open ground until the second week in May, unless the season be very favourable, and the ground warm. As these Beans are apt to get injured by cold and damp weather, let six or eight Beans be planted half an inch deep round each pole, and after- wards thinned, leaving three or four good plants in a hill, which hills should be from four to five feet dis- tance from each other evei'y way. The soil for running Beans should be the same as tor the Dwarf kinds, except the Lima, which requires richer ground than any of the other sorts. If any of these Beans are wanted earlier than the ordinary season, they may be planted in flower pots in April, and placed in a green house or garden frame, and being transplanted in May with the balls of earth entire, will come into bearing 10 or 14 days earlier than those which are planted in the natural gronnd. BEET. 25 Beet. — Beta. Varieties. — Early Blood Turnip rooted — Earlij While Scarcity — Early Dwarf Blood — Long Blood Red — Yelloio Turnip rooted — Mangel Wurzel — • Sir John Sinclair's — French Sugar or Jlmher, A small bed of the earliest and most esteemed kinds of Beets may be planted in good rich early ground towards the end of March, or in the first week of April, which being well attended to, will produce good roots in June. Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two inches^ deep ; drop the seeds along the drills two or three inches from each other, and cover them with the earth. When the plants are up strong, thin them to the dis- tance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows. The ground should be afterwards hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds. Beets may be planted for general crops from the tli'st week in April until the beginning of June, in rich mellow ground, and in case of failing crops, they may produce good roots in the Fall, if planted the last week in June. It is always best to thin them out early. If the tops are used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for this purpose, or they will greatly in-» jure the roots of those that are to stand. Beds that are to stand through the summer, should be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended for winter use should be taken up in October, or early in November. 3 26 borecole and brussels sprouts. Borecole and Brussels Sprouts. Brassica. Varieties. — Green Curled or Fringed Cahhage — Purple Curled — Thick Leaved Curled — Finehj Fringed — Siberianor Scotch Kale— Brussels Sprouts. For the garden, these may be treated in every res- pect as Winter Cabbages • — the seeds may be sown about the middle of May, and the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich ground. They are never so delicious as when rendered tender by smart frosts ; they arc very valuable plants to cultivate, particularly in the more Southerly States, as they will there be in the greatest perfection during the winter months ; they "will also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a shel- tered waim situation, boar the winters of the Middle States ; and may be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if taken up before the winter frost sets in with much severity, and placed in trenches up to their leaves, and covered with straw or other light covering : the heads may be cut off as they are re- quired for use ; and in the spring, the stems being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious Greens. This vegetable is frequently raised in England for cattle, which, on arcount of its luxuriant growth, is very profitable ; the Brussels Sprouts grow there from three to five feet high, and produce an abundance of Greens' in the winter. BROCOLr. 2*" Brocoli. — Brassica olcracca Italica. Varieties. — Earhj Dwarf Purple — Early Green— ^ Large Late Purple— Dwarf Late Purple— Branch- ing Purple — Late Green — Brown — IVhite o; Cauliflower Brocoli — Large Purple Cape — Gran- ges White Cape and Sidjjhur Cape. The several varieties of Brocoli and Cauliflower may be justly ranked amongst the greatest luxuries of the garden. They need only be known in order to be esteemed. The Brocoli produces heads, con- sisting of a lump of rich seedy pulp, like the Cauli- flower, only that some are of a green colour, some purple, some brown &c., and the white kinds so ex- actly resemble the true Cauliflower as to be scarcely distinguished either in colour or taste. Brocoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the Purple Cape Brocoli is now generally understood in this part of America ; but the cultivation of the other kinds, has been nearly abandoned on account of the ill success attending former attempts to bring them to perfection. In such of the Southern States, where the winters are not more severe than in Eng- land, they will stand in the open ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from November to April. In the Middle, and especially in the Eastern States if the seeds of the late kinds be sown in March on a hot bed, and the earlier kinds in April and May in tho, open ground, and treated in the same manner as Cau- liflower plants, it would be the most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers ; but as only a 2S BROCOLI. part of these crops can be expected to come to per- fection before the approach of winter; the remainder will have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and co- vered with earth up to the lower leaves. Those who are desirous of obtaining Brocoli and Cauliflower in any quantity, so as to have all the dif- ferent varieties in succession, should have places ♦^reeled similar to some of our greenhouses, the back and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being afterwards covered with fresh stable dung will keep out the frost. The place allotted for Cape Brocoli and Cauliflower, should have a glazed roof to face the South — the sashes must be made to take off in mild W'eather, but they should be always kept shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or boards, litter, &c. so effectually as to keep out the frost. The hardy kinds of Brocoli may be preserved without glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in extreme cold w:eather, which may be co- vered over with fresh stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it will be necessary to keep the full power of the sun from coming on them until they be thawed, this may be done by sh king a little straw over the bed as they lay. It may perhaps be not generally understood that the sudden transition from cold to heat, is more destructive to vegetables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get frozen, and cannot be screened from the sudden rays of the sun, they should be well watered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to thaw; this will draw out the frost and may be the means of saving the plants. CAULIFLOWER. 29 The proper time for sowing the seed of the Purpl Cape Brocoli, is from the tenth to the twentieth e ' May, those who intend to provide a place for tht winter keeping of the other kinds, may sow seeds ot the most esteemed varieties at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a week apart. When the plants are of sufficient size, they should be transplanted into extraordinary rich ground, which should be brought previously mto good condition. This being done, plant them in rows two feet and a half apart, and two feet distance in the rows. As soon as they iiave taken root, give the ground a deep hoeing, and repeat this two or three times in the course of their growth, drawing some earth around their stems at the same time. Such plants as are not likely to produce heads in the open ground, should be taken up early in October, and laid in carefully close, together with the roots and stems covered with earth as far up as the lower leaves. Those who have not a place provided, may keep a few in a light cellar, but every gardener and private gentleman should have suitable places erected for a vegetable that yields such a delicious repast, at a time when other luxuries of the garden are compa- ratively out of our reach. Cauliflower — Brassica oleracea hotrijies. Varieties. — Earhj — Late, This is a first rate vegetable ; to obtain which, great uaius must be taken in every stage of its growth, the vxtremes of heat and cold being very much against 3" 30 CAULIFLOWER, it. The seeds of the early kinds should be sown be- tween the 16th and 24th of September, in a bed of clean rich earth. In about four or five weeks after- wards, the plants should be pricked out into another bed at the distance of four inches from each other every way; this bed should be encompassed witli garden frames, covered with glazed sashes, and boards; or shutters ; the plants should be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken root, they will after- wards require light and air every mild day throughout the winter, but the outsides of the frames must be so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered as to keep out all frost. They should be well attended to until the time of transplanting in the spring, and those who have not iiand or bell glasses so as to enable them to set some out by the latter end of March, should have a frame ready about the last week in February, in order that they may be transplanted to the distance of eight or nine inches apart ; this would prevent them from buttoning or growing up weak ; if this be not done some of the strongest plants should be taken out of the bed and planted in flower pots, which may be af- terwards placed in a frame or greenhouse until the weather be warm and settled, which maybe expected soon after the middle of April. They should be then turned out with ihe bails of earth entire, and planted in abed of the richest earth in the gaiden, at the dis- tance of two feet and a half from each other every way ; the residue may be taken up from the frame the last week in April, or earlier if the season proves mild, by means of a garden trowel and planted as above. The plants should be afterwards well at- CAULIFLOWER. 31 tended to by hoeing the ground deep around them, and bringing the earth gradually up to the stems, so as to push them forward before the approach of warm weather. The Fall plants are generally allowed to succeed best, but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced from seed sown in a hot bed towards the end of Jan- uary, or early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the bed in good condition to receive the seed ; when the plants are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they progress in growth, they should have as much air as possible consistent with their preservation, but the be iS must be kept covered up every night as long as there is any danger of frost. When the plants are three or four inches high, they must be pricked out three or four inches apart into another bed, and by the latter end of April they may be transplanted into the open ground, and treated in every respect the same as the other. These plants if well managed, will succeed very well, and those that do not flower by June, may make good heads in the Full. In the early part of April, Caaliflower seeds may be sown in the open ground, the plants should be pricked out in May, and transplanted into good ground early m June to flower in the Fall : those that are not likely to flower by the last of October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner recom- mended for the Cape Brocoli. It will be beneficial in the raising of Cauliflowers to defend them Irom the north, west winds, by hedges made of reeds, or pales thatched with straw. 32 CABBAGE. Cabbage. — Brassica Oleracea, Varieties. — Early York — Earbj Dutch — KnighVs Early Dwarf — Early Salisbw^ Dwarf — Early Emperor — EarUf Penton — Early JVellington — Early Sugar-loaf — Early London Batte.rsea — Early Heart-shaped — Early Imperial — Large Late Di'wn-head — Large Sugar-loaf — Large Late Battersea — Large Bergen or Grf.at American — Green Glazed — Large Scotch^ for Cattle — Red Dutch, for Pickling — Green Globe Savoy — Yelloio Savoy — Turnip Rooted. The early kinds ot spring Cabbage may be rais- ed in varivous ways. Some sow the seeds between the 10th and 24th of September, pricked out and managed the same as Cauliflower plants, only that ihey are more hardy, and may be kept through the winter without Glazed Sashes. Some prefer sow- ing the seeds in a Cold-bed, covered by a garden :Vame, and wit'\ sashes; If this frame be placed on :i warm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the early kinds sown the latter end of January or oarly in February, these plants will be better than those raised in the Fall ; as they will not be so liable to run to seed, and they will be more hardy than those raised on hot beds in the spring. The Gardeners abouc New-York sow their seed on liot-beds covered with glass frames, the last week in February, or early in March ; the plants will be fit Tfi transplant about the middle of April, and should l»<^ set out in good ground from sixteen inches to two M^pt apart, according to the. size and kind. These, i^y being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in CABBAGE. 33 June. If seeds of the large early kinds be sown in a warm border early in April, they will produce plants fit to transplant in May, and will make good Cabbages for Summer use. The seeds of Savoys and late Cabbage in gene- ral, may be sown at two or three different times, be- tween the 10th and 25th of May, in fresh rich ground free from weeds ; the young plants will require to be watched at this season of the year, and if they are at- tacked by insects, recourse must be had to the ingre- dients recommended in tlie general directions, these, if used every evening until the plants get strong, will bring them forwanl for transplantmg in the second or third week in July. The Bergen and other large kinds should be planted in rows at least thirty inches asunder, and the plants about two feet apart in the rows ; the Sa- voys and smaller sorts may be placed from four to to six inches nearer every way. Cabbages succeed best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be deeply hoed at least three times during their growth. The Brassica rapa^ or Turnip Cabbage produces its bulb or protuberance, on the stems above ground, immediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about the size of a garden turnip. The seeds may be sown in April or May, and the plants afterwards treated the same as Cabbages, only that in earthing up the plants you must be careful not lo cover the globular part. They are much more hardy than Turnips, and in England the bulbs often grow to upwards of twenty inches in circumference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They arc cultivated for the feeding of 34 CABBAGE. COWS and sheep, as well as foi* table use ; in either case they treat them as they do Cabbages, or sow them like Turnips, and afterwards hoe them out to proper distances Ihe Brassica JS^ajJO, or Turnip rooted Cabbage, has an oblong thick root in the form of a winter radish ; it is extremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seeds should be sown in strong rich ground, and treated in every respect as Turnips, ob- serving to thin the plants with the hoe to the distance of about sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger and better when treated in this way, tlian if transplanted. This vegetable merits attention from the Farmer, and is a valuable article to cultivate for cattle, as it will, with proper care, produce from 25 to 30 tons per acre. The tops and sprouts make delicious Greens in the spring for table use- Co. ewort or CoLLARDs. — Brassica oleracea. This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young ; it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is very seldom cultivated. The English prefer sowing the seeds of early heading- kinds of Cabbages, as a substitute, which being done at different seasons, enables them to procure a supply of fre:l Gourds ; as degeneracy will infallibly be the conse- quence of inattention to these particulars. To pre- vent the ravages of flies &c. see Cucumber. Water Melon. — Cucurbita Citruilus. Varieties. — Carolina Water — Long Island W^fer — Apple Seeded Water, The Water Melon, though by some considere*l a species of the former, is a distinct genus ot.' exotic plants. They afford a very refreshing ai; tide of diet in our warm summers. Dr. Pallas, in, the accouRt of his journey to the Southern proviag'ef* iu Russia iu 1793 and 94^ spejaking of a QQlony (if 4d MUSTARD- Moravians at Sarepta, or Sapa on tlie river Volga, says, " the ingenious inhabitants or this town brew a kind of beer from their very abu/idant and cheap Watermelons, with the addition of hops -, they als€> prepare a conserve or marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for syrup ct treacle." In order to have Water Melons in good perfection, you must fix upon a piece of very nch light soil ; prepare, sow, and manage it in every respect as is directed for the others, only let the hills be nine or ten feet distant every way. Mustard. — Sinapis, &c. The Alba or White Mustard grows spontaneously in the fields in England, it is also cultivated as a small salad, as well as for seed. The seed yields from Qvery 100 pounds, from 33 to 36 pounds of swett rpild oil. The Nigra, or Common Mustard, is also a native of England. The condiment, called mustard, and ip daily use at our tables, is prepared from the seeds ot" this f^pecies?. The Erysimum is a genus of platits comprising tcji species, four of which are natives of Britain. 1. The Officinale: — This species possesses a warm and acrid flavour ; and when cultivated is used as aTi early pot herb. Its seeds taken internally promote (n?pectoration, the discharge of urine, and other fluid strcretions. The juice has been employed with on;- paralleled ^snccess in ulcers of the throat, &c. NASTURTIUM AND OKRA. 49 2. The Barbarea or Winter Cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn : some boil them as Kale. 8. The Ailiari is also cultivated as a salad. The Prussians eat the leaves in the spring with salted meat. In Wales it is frequently used as a frying herb, and in England the leaves are used with Lettuce, &c. 4. The Cheiranthndes is eaten by horses, cows, goats, sheep and swine ; and is used by the country people for destroying worms. The seeds of all the kinds of Mustard may be sown in clean rich ground in April and May ; and for a fail salad in September, in shallow drills. Nasturtium. There are of the Nasturtium a major and a minor kind ; the former being of a large running growth i& the most productive. The seeds of the running kind should be sown in April or early in May, in drills about an inch deep, near fences, or pales ; or trel- lises should be fixed on which they can climb anti have support ; for they will always be more prcduo* tive in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground. The dwarf kind may be planted in hills, two or three seeds in a hill. Oera. — Hibiscus escuUntus. The green capsules of this plant are ujsed in soups, and its ripe seeds, if burnt and ground like co,ffee, caft scarcely be distinguished therefrom, 6 50 ON I ox. The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first or second week in May. Draw drills about two inches deep, and four feet assunder, into which drop the seeds at the distance of six or eight inches from one another, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one should not grow, and cover them near an inch in depth, as they advance in growth thin them out, earth them up two or three times, and they will produce abundantly. OxioN. — Milium Cepa. Varieteis. — White Portugal — Yellow Dutch — While Spanish Silver Skinned Strasburgh — Large Deptford Red. Of the several varieties of Onions, the Strasburgh and Large Deptford Bed are the best for a general crop. The bulbs are handsome, of firm growth, and keep well through the winter The White Portugal and Silver Skinned Onions are of a mild taste, and generally turn out very profitable crops. Previous to sowing onion seed for a general crop, the greund should be well prepare:! by digging in some of the oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier this be done in the spring the better j and the planting should not be delayed longer than the middle of April. The seed may be sown broad cast, or in drills one inch deep and twelve inches apart. When the plants are up strong they should b^ hoed. Those beds that are to stand for a full crop, should be thinned out while young, to the distance of two or three inches from each other j if a few should ONION. 51 be required for use after thia, those can be taken which incline more to tops than roots, and if the beds be frequently looked over and the small and stalky- plants taken away where they stand thickest, the remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size. The ground should be hoed at leas three times in the early part of their growth ; but if the season proves damp, and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be removed by the hand, because, after the onions have begun to bulb, it would be improper to stir them with a hoe. When the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions it is time to take them up, for from this time the fibrous roots decay. After they are pulled they should be laid out to dry ; and when dry removed to a place of shelter. The small Onions may be planted in the spring foL lowing ; even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good bulbs if the seed stems be taken off as soon as they appear. The Allium Fistolosum or Welsh Onions are cul- tivated for spring salad ; they form no bulbs, but are very hardy. If the seed be sown early in September in rich ground, although the tops may die down in the Winter, yet the roots will continue sound and push up ne\r leaves early in the spring. The Allium Canadensey or Tree Onion, is propa- gated by planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, either the root bulbs, or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if planted in the Spring, will produce fine Onions. These may be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots. 52 PARSLEY AND PARSNIP. The Potato Onion is of late introduction into this country. It does not produce seed as other Onions, but is increased by the root. One single Onion will produce six or seven in a clump under ground simi- lar to Potatoes. The bulbs should be planted in the spring from twelve to eighteen inches apart. Parsley. — t3pium Petro^elimtm Varieties. — Curled, or Doiible — Siberian — Ham- burgh or Large rooted — Dwarf Curled. ks Parsley seed sown late in the season is apt to lay in the giround some time before it vegetates, the ^^neral crop should be sown by the early part of April, ia drills an inch deep, and one /oot assnnder. After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequenr. hoemgs. In order to have Parsley green through the winter, the old leaves should be picked off in September. If some of the roots be taken up early m November, and laid in a frame or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ; the remain- der may be covered up with straw in the place where it grows. Parsnip. — Pastinaca Saliva, Varieties — Large Dutch, or Sicelling. Parsnip seed may be sowed from the middle of March to the last week in April, in drills one inch deep and fourteen inches apart; but as this vegetable requires the whole season to grow in, the sooner the PEPPER. 0£> seed is planted the better. Parsnips grow best in a deep soil manured well the preceding fall. Sow the seeds thick along the drill?, and rake them in evenly. When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They should be kept free from weeds by re- gular hoeings through the summer ; and ia the fall they will be fit for us*. Pepper. — Capsicum. Varieties.— Long- or Cayenne — Tomato or Squash Shaped — Bell or Ox Heart — Chen^j — Bird or West Indian. The seeds of the different kinds of Capsicums may be sown in a hot bed in March or on a warm border early in May. The plants may be afterwards trans- planted into good rich ground from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other. Those who do not want peppers early in the sea- son, may sow the s«eds in the open ground in May^ in drills two feet assunder, and half an inch deep. "When the plants are grovvn an inch or two high, thin them to the distance of fifteen or eighteen inchej* in the rows. The ground should be afterwards hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds by repeated hoeings. 5* 54 PEASi Peas, — Pisum saiivian, Yarieties. — Early Washington {or May Pea,) growr to the height of 2 1-2 feet— Early double blossomed frame J 3 feet— Early JYimble Dick 2 1-2 feet- Early Frame 2 1-2 feet— Early Golden Hotsur, 3 feet— Early Charlton, 3 feet— Early Pe- tersburg 2 1-2 feet — Dwarf Blue Imperial, 2 feet — Dwarf Blue Prussian 2 1-2 feet — Dwarf Proli- fic, or Poor Man^s, or Strawberry 1 1-2 feet — Dwarf Spanish or Fan, 1 Joot — Dwarf Marrow- fat, 3 1-2 feet — Dwarf Sugar, {eatable pods) 3 feet—Dwar' White Albany, 1 1-2 feet [Field Pea) — J\ew Nonpareil, Z feet — Ladies finger Marrows — Waterloo Blues, 4 feet — Matchless or true Fall Marrowfat, 6 feet — Large Gray Rouncival, 4 feet— Dutch Gray, 2 1-2 feet— Knights Tall Mar- rows or Honey Pea, 6 feet — Knights Dwarf Marrows, 2 feet — Tall Crooked Podded Sugar, 6 feet, {eatable pods) — Dwarf Green Albany I 1-2 fett {Field Pea.) The above list and description of the most esteem- ed kinds of Peas is taken from the Catalogue of the Messrs. Thorbiirn and Son's of New York. If they are ri^^htly described, they vvill grow to different heights according to soil and season. This descrip- tion however, may serve as a guide for the gardener in planting. The Dwarf Peas requires less distance between row and row, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. Planting the early kinds of Peas should com-f mence as soon in the spring as the ground can ht brought into good conditioo : all the other sorts a> well as the early will answer for successive crops ; to obtain which a few of the most esteemed kinds should be planted at the same time every two weeks, from March until the end of May. Persons desirous of having Peas throughout the summer and fall, may plant a few in June, July and August. The Peas should be then soaked in soft water five or six hours before planting, and if the ground be dry it should be watered in the drills. Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas ; some plant them in ridges, others in drills, s.ome in single rows, others in double, some use sticks for the dwarf kinds, and others not ; those who study neatness will have them all rodded though the most dwarfish may do without. All the different sorts of Peas may be planted in double or single rows from four to six feet apart ac- cording to the different heights they may be expected to grow. If two drills be made three inches deep, and six or eight inches apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately thick they will yield bet- ter than single rows, and will save sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high let them b& hoed, drawing at the same time a little earth up to their stems, when they get to double that height let them be hoed again, at the same time place a row of sticks in the middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climbing to the main support. You must be governed as to the length of your sticks by the description of your peas. There is a great ad-, vantage in having sticks of a suitable height, to the various kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not only be 56 POTATOES. sufficiently tall but also branchy, ihat the plants may readily take hold ; and they should be prepared fan- lashion, so that the side branches may extend only along the rows. As the plants progress in growth, let them be repeatedly hoed and earthed up, this will promote a plentiful bearing. Potatoes. — Solanum Tuberosum. The varieties of Potatoes being very numerous, it IS unnecessary for me to point out any particular kinds some of the earliest should however, be planted first in the spring, to produce young Potatoes in due sea- son, but they are not so suitable for a full crop as the Jate varieties. Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients have been contrived with a view to find out the best method of preparing the seed. In many parts of England (where Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers never plant Pota- toes whole, they take the Potatoes as they come to hand, and in cutting them take care to have two good oyes in each set, the small Potatoes are deprived of the sprout or nose end as it is generally considered that this is essentially necessary to the production of a good crop. I have frequently known from five to 600 bushels raised from an acre with small Potatoes alone, cut in this way. Some prefer planting the Po- tatoes immediately after they are cut ; the better way is to get them cut one or two weeks before the time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn or garret floor to dry. Potatoes may be planted from the first week in A prii until July, either in hills or drills ; the best way PUMPKINS. 67 for a garden is to plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about thirty inches asunder, the sets may be dropped six or eight inches apart and if a small quantity of combmaker's horn shavings or sea weed be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will expedite their growth ; the ground should be hoed as soon as the plants come up, and as they pro- gress in growth it will be proper to mould or earth them up twice. PoTATOE Sweet. — Convolvulus Batata, Sweet Potatoes may be raised in the vicinity of New York, by means of a hot bed ; they should be planted whole, early in April three or four inches deep and about the same distance apart. In about a month they will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above ground, part them off from the Potatoe, which if suffered to remain will produce more sprouts for a successive planting ; transplant them into rich ground in rows four feet apart and the plants about a foot apart, in the rows. Keep them clear of weeds until the vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely. Pumpkins.— CMcm'6//a pepo. Vari?:ties. — Large Cheese — Connecticut Field — Finest Yellow Family — JVIammoth. Pumpkins are planted in hills which require to be eight or ten feet apart, two or three plants will be sufficient in each ; they are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either Melons or Cucumbers, but .>8 PATIENCE DOCK AND RADISH. will grow freely in any dry and tolerably rich ground : the seed may b© planted early in May in the open ground, and should be kept constantly clean and free from weeds. When you intend to cultivate either Melons, Cu- cumbers, Squashes, Pumpkins, or the like kinds, on an extensive scale, you can prepare the ground with the plough, v/hich will save much labour ; and also, after^N ards as the weeds advance, plough and harrow between the plants till they begin to run, after which, rhe hoe must be used. Patience dock. — Rumex Paiienlia. The Rumex Patientia is perennial ; the leaves are large, long and succulent, and are by some very much •esteemed. The plant may be propagated by offsets from the root, taken off in the spring, or late autumn months, and planted in rows eighteen inches assun- der, and eight inches from one another in the rows. If the seed be sown in October or November, it will rise freely in the spring, or it may be planted in March or April, in drills one inch and a half deep, and eighteen inches apart, and afterwards thinned to the proper distance. Hadisii. — Raphanus. Varieties. — Early Frame — Early Scarlet — Short Top — Long Salmon — Purple Short Top — Long /* hile Summer f or JVaples — Cherry or Scarlet Tur-^ nip rooted — Violet coloured Turnips- Wliite Tur- nip rooted — Black, Fall or Spanish. Those who are desirous of having good Radishes early in the spring, should have a warm border pre- ROCAMBOLE. 6$ pared in the very best manner, so as to be ready tc* sow some of the short top scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground should not be in good condi- jtion to receive the seed at this time, let it be delayed a few days ; and by the first of April take care to have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging in some good strong manure. The seed may bo sown broadcast, and raked evenly in. If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow seeds of the most esteemed kinds every two weeks Until the middle of May : if any Ijwg.sown after this, ii should be the White Turnip or Black Spanish, these will endure the heat better than the others, and may be sown in drills in small quantities throughout the summer, until the latter end of August, when the other kinds may be sown in regular succession until the first of October. RocAMBOLE.^ — Allium Scorodoprasum, This and the Allium Sativum or Common Garlick, is raised in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole to be of a milder and better flavour, but the bulbs are not so large as those of the Uarlick. This is a very hardy plant, and will grow in almost every soil or situation. It is propogated either by j the roots or seeds, the former ought to be separatetl and planted, at the same time, and in the same man- ' ner as Shallots. When raised from seed, they may be sown in drilh? either shortly after the seeds are ripe, or in the suc- ceeding spring ; they require only to be kept clear of weeds ; and, in the following autumn, may be takeji up, the bulbs parted, and planted as before. ^0 RHUBARB. Rhubarb. — Rheum. Rhubarb is a genus of exotic plants, compriz- ing seven specks, of which the following are the principal : — 1. The Rhuponticum or Common Rhubarb, a native of Thrace and Syria, which has long been cultivated in British gardens for the footstalks of the leaves, that are frequently used in pies and tarts. 2. The Rheum Undulatiim is also cultivated for the ^same use. 3. The Palmatum or True Officinale Rhubarb, is a native of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has been introduced into Europe ; it produces a thick fleshy root, externally yellowish brown, but internally of a bright yellow colour streaked with red veins. It grows to good perfection in Scotland as far North as Perthshire, (Lat. 56 ;) also in England, Turkey, and various other parts of Europe. When the importance of this root is considered as a medi- cine, it is a matter of astonishment that it has not been more generally introduced into the United States. The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagatexl by offsets, taken from the roots early in the spring ; or from seed sown late in the fall, or in March an^ the early part of April. The indispensible points ta the production of good roots of the pdjaaitMn, are depth and richness of soil, which should be well pul- verized before the plants are set out. Prepare beds of fine mould eighteen inches deep ; in these put in the plants from the seed bed, ten or twelve inches apart ; this must be done when they have attained the height of four or five inches, and hove (hrotm out srs many leaves. RHUBARB. 61 The first season is the most critical, and much tiare is necessary. If the weather be hot, the nur- sery must be shaded, and at all events continually watered ; for water, though hurtful to old plants, is now of the first consequence. Wet weather is the most proper time to plant in. The beds must be kept free from weeds through the summer, and on the ap- proach of severe weather, covered up with dry litter. In the early part of the spring this must be taken off^ and in the beginning of April the plants must be trans- planted into ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus. Those who cultivate the Palmatum for the sake of the roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and place the plants four feet apart every way As to the other kinds it is not so parti- cular, so as the plants have room to grow. In the early part of November, the leaves being then de- cayed, the beds should be covered with dry litter ; be- fore this be done, a little earth should be drawn round the crowns of the plants. If there be any danger of water lodging, make trenches to carry it off. In the month of March the beds should be stripped of their covering, and the ground well hoed and cleared of weeds. If Rhubarb stalks be required for us6 early in the spring, they may be obtained by placing flower barrels or deep tubs over some of the plants, and covering them up with fresh stable dung. Some- make the beds at once with the seeds ; the objections to this plan are, first, that the young plants cannot be so well protected in the early part of their growth as those raised in small beds ; and, secondly, that the- ground becomes so hard in the course of a year as to 6 62 SALSIPT< prevent the roots from running to the depth they otherwise would. The roots of the Palmatum must not be taken up until six or seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be cul every spring. After being stripped of their outer covering and cut up into small pieces, they are used in pies and tarts. Cobbet supposes, ** that a hundred wagon loads of Rhubarb stalks arc annually sold in the markets of London, at a shilling sterling per bunch." (American Gardener.) Rhu- barb makes an excellent preserve when cut into small pieces about an inch and a half long, and parboilef the manner of Asparagus. Some have carried thek fondness for this plant so far as to call it Vegetable Oyster. They require the same kind of soil and mci=- nagement as Carrots and Parsnips. The seeds may be sown the latter end of March, or early in April, an inch deep in drills twelve inches apart. When the plants are two or three inches high, they should be thinned to the distance of six inches from each other, and afterwards hoed. The ground should be kept clean and loose round tlie plants, by repeated hoeings ; and in the Autumn they will be fit for usr. The roots may bo taken up late in the fall, and *y- SCORZONARA ANI> SEA-KALE. 63 cured in moist sand from the air ; or be suffered to remain out, and dug up when wanted. The mode of cooking recommended by an Ameri- can author is, *< to cut the roots transversely into thin pieces ; boil them in water or milk and water ; when boiled soft, mash them and thicken the whole with flour to some degree of stiffness ; then fry them in the fat of salt pork or butter ; they are a luxury." Tn England the tops are boiled and served up with poached eggs. ScoRZONARA. — ScoTZonera Ilispanicu, This plant has long been raised in British gardens for culinary purposes, and especially as an ingre- dient in soups, on account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil and eat them like Car- rots, &c. ; in which case they should be deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised pre- cisely in the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in April, in a good deep soil, the roots will at- tain perfection in autumn, and continue good all the winter. They last from three to four years, according to'the quality of the earth and care bestowed on them> but it is better to raise a few from seed every year. Sea-Kale. — Crambe maritima. This plant is found on the sea shore in the Southr ern parts of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it appears above ground, the inhabitants 64 SEA-KALC. remove the pebbles or sand with which it is usually covered to the depth of several inches, and cut ofl" the young and tender leaves and stalks, as yet unex- panded, and in a blanched state, close to the crown ofthe root, it is then in its greatest perfection. Wheji the leaves are full grown they become hard and bitter, and the plant is not eatable. It is cultivated in private gardens and for sale in various parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely respecting the mode of treating this plant, many conceiving that stones, gravel, and sea sand arc essential to its growth, have gone to the expense of providing it : but it has been discovered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in a rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth. The seeds of Sea-Kale should be sown as soon as they are ripe. If fresh seeds cannot be obtained by the end of October, let them be sown as early in the spring as the ground can he brought into good con- dition, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or sixteen inches asunder ; the plants should be afterwards thinned out to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeings through the summer. When the plants are a year old, every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart ; these may be transplanted into good ground prepared as directed for Asparagus. Plant two rows in each bed, about eighteen inches apart ; the best way if to make two drills three inches deep, and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen inches from each other ; when these drills are filled, ths crowns ol' SEA-K'ALS. 65 the plants will be covered nearly two incheS; but they will soon push througji the earth. The plants left in the seed bed may form a permanent bed, which' should be forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this being done, lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure, and incorporate it with the earth around the plants. Some make new plantations with pieces of old •roots, which should be cut up in lengths of about two inches, and planted in March or April, three or four inches deep at the distances before directed for thtt; plants. At the approach of winter, the leaves will die away and disappear. The beds should be then thickly covered with dung, leaves or sea weed ; this will not only protect the plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in the spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this may be taken off, or if well rotted, it may be mixed up with the earth : the crowns of the plants should then be covered to the depth often •r twelve inches for blanching. Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some^ common sand and gravel ; and others with large gar- den pots inverted, and placed immediately over the plants. If these pots be covered up with fresh horse dung, it will forward the shoots in growth, and mak^ them sweeter and more tender. When your plants have been covered in eilher method three or four weeks, examine them, and if you find that the stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin cutting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considerable length, yoar crop v^ill con\^ in too much at once, for^ in this plcrnj^ 6* 66 SOKREt. there is not that successive growth which there is in Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you sec the head of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time vou uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Brocoli is usually cut, and use it as such. you will find it an excellent substitute ; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant, as Brocoli «{oes not stand our winter frost, and can only be had when carefully protected, (as recommended under that head :) but this plant is sufficiently hardy to bear our ^vinter's frost without much injury. You are not to weaken the roots too much by over cutting, for in that case it would injure their next years bearing : some of the shoots should be allowed to grow to carry on a proper vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care should be taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the roots by cutting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed soon after it is cut, as the goodness of the article greatly depends on its not being long exposed to the air. Sorrel. — Rum ex .icefota. The seeds of the Broad Leaved English Scrirel, and also of the Round Leafed or French Sorrel, may be sown in April and May, in beds or borders, and covered lightly. When the plants are up, keep them free from weeds ; they may be afterwards thinned to the distance of nine inches from each other, or trans- planted into fresh ground. The old standing roots of either kind may be sepa- rated and planted for increase ; this should bo done SHALLOT. ^ Ttt April. As fast as the plants shoot up to seed cut tliem down close, and a new crop of leaves will be produced. It is used raw as a salad, or boiled for greens. SKiRRET. — Shim Sisarum. This plant is cultivated first by seed, and after-^ Wards by offsets taken from the old roots, and planted very early in the spring, and before they begin to- ^boot, but it is best to raise a small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow longer than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be sticky. The seed may be sown in drills the latter end of Marcl?. or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnips, &c. In Autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots will be fit to use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring. Skirrets should be planted in a light moist soil, for iu dry land the roots are generally small, unless thcf season proves wet. The root of the Skirret is com- posed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a man's finger, and joining together at top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper, and salt, or rolled in flour aud fried, or else cold with oil and vinegar, being first boilcf. They have much of the faste and flavour of a Parsnip, but a great deal more- palatable. 6^ SHALLOT AND SPINNAGE' Shallot. — Allium Jiscalonicum,- The true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is con^ sidered to possess the most agreeable flavour of any of the Allium genus. It is consequently highly de- serving of cultivation. They are propagated by planting bulbs or offsets in the fall of the year ; which may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve inches apart, by four to six inches distance in the rows ; or ihey may be placed in drill* two or three inches deep and covered up with a trowel or hoe. The gar- deners about New York plant large quantities of the liulbs early in September ; by this means they are enabled to supply the markets in April and May with .i mild Allium which meets a ready sale. After the tops die down, the bulbs must be taken up, and the oftsets divided : a portion of these should )5e kept in a dry place to plant the ensuing Autumn. Spinach or Spinnage. — Spinacia. Varieties. — Round Leaved, or Summer — PricJileij or Fall — JWiv Zealand, or Tetragona expansa. The Spinacia Oleracea, or common Spinach, is verv iiardy, the seed of which should be sown in several sowings from the first to the end of September ; the Ibrwardest of these, if covered up with straw at the approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the itible when other vegetables art sCBrce, ahd the Fatt^* crops will recover the effects of a hard t^int«r, and produce a wholesome vegetable ^arly ia the spl-ing. SQUASH-. 69 If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and April, it will grow freely, but it nnust be cut before the approach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground ; let the ground be well manured, with good- strong dung, and it will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant produce. The New Zealand Spinach is of late introduction into this country ; its nature seems to be opposite to (he common Spinach, as it will endure the heat better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, by planting the seeds in April and May, Being of luxuriant growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and about two seeds in a hill: The leaves will be fit for use during the summer, and until late in the fall. Squash. — Cucurbita melopepo. Varieties. — Early Bush Summer — Stnmner Cvool JVeck — Long Crook JVec^, or Bell Vegetable JSIarroiv. The Early Bush Squashes are best for garden cul- ture, and their produce is allowed to be equal in quality to the running kinds. The Vegetable Mar- row is also well deserving of cultivation. The seeds of these may be planted early in May, in hills four or five feet apart, prepared as directed for Melon? and Cucumbers. The Running Squash may bo planted at the same time and in the same manner as Pumpkins ; and the management of these various kinds of vines must be the same in every respect as TOMATOE. i Cucumbers and Melons. It is always best to pu tive or six seeds in a hill, as a guard against acci- dents. \yhen the plants are past danger they can be thinned to two or three in a hill. ToMATOE. — Solamim Lycopersicuvu The Tomatoe, or Love Apple is much cultivated ior its fruit in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable acid flavour ; and is also stewed and dressed in various ways, and very much admired. The seeds should be sown the early part of March, Ml a slight hotbed, and the plants set out in the opea ;;round the first week in May. In private gardens it will be necessary to plant them near a fence, or to provide trellices for them to be trained to, in the manner recommended for Nasturtiums ; they will iiowever do very well if planted out four feet distant from each other every way. Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the summer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the rirst week in May ; these plants will be fit to trans-s plant early in June. TURNlf. 7i Turnip. — Brassica rapa. [Those marked f, are best for family use.] Varieties. — Early White Dutch,/. — Early Garden Stone, f. — White Flat or Globe — Green Round or Green Top — Red Round, /. or Red Top — Swans Eggjf. — Large English JYorfolk — Long Tankard, or Hanover,/. — Long Yellow Foench,/. — Yellow Maltese,/. — Yellow Merdeen — Yellow Stone,/.— Yellow Sweedish or Russia. This is a valuable vegetable and its culture gene^ rally very well understood. It being the last escu- lent vegetable on our catalogue, that is raised from seeds sold at our several seed stores, I shall en- deavour to stimulate those of our Yeomanry who have hitherto neglected the culture of this field, as well as garden production, to exertion and diligence, by inserting a few short extracts from a paper that now lays before me. The following statement re- lates to a country that contains only about 60 millions of acres, capable of cultivation, and which supports upwards of 20 millions of human beings, besides m-illions of brutes from the products of its soil, she also exports vast quantities of some kinds of produce from this source. *' Culture of Turnips. — Until the beginning of the eighteenth century, this valuable root was cultivateli only in gardens or other small spots for culinary purposes, but Lord To wnsend, attending king Georgti the first, in one of his excursions to Germany in tin; quality of Secretary of State, observed the Turnip c'uh- tivated in open and extensive fields, as fodder im' cattle, and spreading fertility over lands naturally 72 TURNIPS. i)aiTen ; and on his return to England, he brought over some of the seed, and strongly recommended the practice which he had witnessed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who occupied a soil similar t« that of Hanover. The experiment succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips gradually spread over the whole county of Norfolk, and has made its way into every other district of England. The reputation of the county as an agricultural district, dates from the vast improvements of heaths, wastes, sheeo walks, ^ad warrens, by enclosing and manuring; the fruits of the zealous exertions of Lord Townsend and a few neighbouring land owners, which were ere long imi- tated by others. Since these improvements were ef- .fected, rents have risen in that county from one or two shillings to twenty shillings an acre; a county consisting chiefly of sheep w ilks and rabbit warrens has been rendered highly productive, and by dint of management, what was thus gained, has been pre- served and improved even to the present moment. Some of the finest corn crops in the world are now growing upon land, which, before the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produced a very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and half starved rabbits. " Mr. Colquhoun in his * Statistical researches,' estimated the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in the united kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland at fourteen million pounds sterHng, (equal to upwards of sixty 3Iilmo.ns of noLLiRs.) But when we further recollect that it enables the agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which without its aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural barren- ness, that it leaves the land clean and in fine condi' TURNIP. 73 tion, and also to insure a good crop of Barley and a kind plant of Clover, nnd that this Clover is found a most excellent preparative for Wheat, it will appear (hat the subsequent advantages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely exceed its estimated value as fodder for cattle. (Sir William Scott in the Quar- terly Review.") As I have undertaken to " assist the Young Gar- dener," I shall proceed to point out the most proper means of cultivating this truly valuable vegetable in his garden. The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other things of equal value. It must however be granted, that some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better than others, and that in general, exotic plants will succeed best in such soils as are nearest like their own native soil. As we have not always a choice, I would inform the Young Gardener, if he has a very light soil which is not suitable for vegetables is general, he may sometimes get two crops of Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop early in March, and that for his se- cond, in the middle of August. For general crops it will be better to have ground manured with shoit rotten dung, or compost containing a considerable proportion of coal or soapers ashes. Ground that has been well manured for proceeding crops, and old ground fresh broken up, will suit well for Turnips. The most esteemed kinds of Turnips for gardens^ are marked in the catalogue, I shall therefore leave my readers to their own choice. 7 74 RUSSIAN TURNIP. As the Yellow Swedish or Russian Turnip or Ruta Baga requires different treatment, I shall quote a few lines from the American Gardener, by William Cobbett, the great advocate for Ruta Baga. *' The Swedish Turnip, so generally preferred for table use here, and so seldom used for the table iu England, ought to be sown early in June, in rows at a foot apart, and thinned to three inches in the row.s. About the middle of July they should be trans- planted upon ridges three feet apart (in u garden) and during their growth, ought to be kept clean of weeds, and to be dug between twice at least as deep as a good spade can be made to go." " But the Swedish Turnip is of further use as producing most excellent greens in the spring, and at a very early season. To draw this benefit from them, the best way is to leave a row or two in the ground, and when the winter is about to set in, cover them all over with straw or cedar boughs. Take these off when the winter breaks up, and you will have very early and most excellent greens ; and when you have done . with the greens, the Turnips are very good to eat." If the seed of the Russia Turnip be sown either broadcast, or in drills the first week in July, they will make fine roots by autumn without transplanting, pro- vided the ground be good and well worked. "When the plants are up strong they must be hoed and thinned to the distance of 12 or 15 inches from each other, another hoeing will be necessary in 5 or C weeks af- ierwards. This will make them grow freely. HORSE-RADISH. 75 Horse-Radish — Cochleara Jlrnioracia. This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either cut from the top an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into pieces of that length, or by offsets that arise fram the sides of the main root, retaining the crowns or top shoots in as m'lny parts as possible. These should be planted as early in the spring as practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches from each other in the rows. The ground should be well manured and dug two spades deep, and the cuttings should be sunk full ten inches with the crowns upright ; this being done, level the surface of the ground, and afterwards keep it free from weeds until the plants are full grown. With this manage- ment the roots will be long and straight, and the se- cond year after planting will be fit for use. They may be taken up the fust year, but then the roots will be slender, therefore it is the better way to let them remain till the second. If in taking up the roots some oftsets be left in the ground, they will produce a successive supply for many years. Aromatic, Pot, and Sweet Herbs. Anise, Pimpinella Jlnisum, Basil Sweet, Ocymum Basilicum Bush Basil, do, minimum. Borage, Borago Officinalis. Caraway, Carum Carni, Clary, Salvia Sclara, Coriander, Coriandrum Sativum^ '76 AR03XATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. D\\], Anetkum Graveolens ■^Fennel, Common, do. Fcbniculum, * do. Sweet, Ho. Dulce. Marigold, Pot, Calendula Officinalis, ^Marjoram Sweet, Origanum Marjorana. *Mint, Spear, Mentha Virides. * do. Pepper, do. Piperita. * do. Pennyroyal, do. Pidegium *Sage, Common, Salvia Officinalis. Savory, Summer, Satureja Hortensis, * do. Winter, do. JMontana. Smallage, Jtpium Graveohns. ^Tarragon, Jlrte misia Dracunculus- *Thyme, Common, Thymus Vulgaris. * do. Lemon, do. Serpyllum, Aromatic Herbs arc such as impart a strong spicy odour and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs, and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a bye corner may be allotted for them, and such medical herbs as may be wanted in a family. It may be necessary for mo to explain as we go along, that there arc three principal descriptive names given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and Pe- rennials. The Annuals being hut of one season's duration, are raised every year frorn seed. The Biennial kinds are raised from seed one year, con- tinue till the second, and soon after die ; some of these should be also raised every year from seed. The Perennials may be also raised from seed, but when once raised they will continue on the same roots MEDICINAL HERBS. 77 mnny years. Those marked * are of the latter de- scription, and may b^propagated by suckers, ofTsets, cuttings or partings •£ the roots. Those who have not already a plantation of these herbs, may sow seeds of any of the different kinds in March or April, in drills about an inch deep and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The plants may be afterwards transplanted into separate beds : or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two £eGt apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants afterwards thinned out to proper distances according to the natural growth of the different kinds of plants; Plants Cultivated for Medicinal Purposes, &c-. Boneset or Thor'oughwort, *Balm, Bean Castor-Oil, Burdock, Catnep, Celandine, ^Chamomile, *Comfrey, *Elecampane, Feverfew, *Horehound, *Horsemint, *Hyssop, *Lavender, Lovage or Smellage, *Mallow, Marsh, 7* Eupaioynum Perfolintum. Melissa Officinalis, Ri<:inits Communis. Arctium Lappa, JS^epeta CataHa, Chelidonum JMajus. Anthemis JVohilis. Symphytum Officinale. Inula Helenium. J\Iatvica/ria PariJienimn. J\Taruhium Vvlgare. Monardd Punctata. Hysopus Officinalis. Lavendula Spica Ligusticum Levislicuntv Althca Officinalis. 7S MEDICINAL IIERB5. '*Pink root Carolina, Spigelia Marilandica. t*oppy Opium, (annual,) Papaver Somtuferum. "Rosemary,. Rosmarinus Officinalis. ^^Rue Garden, Ruia Graveolens. *Scullcap or Mad Dog Plant, Scutellaria Lateriflora, *Snakeroot, Yirgrnian, Aristo!ochia Serpcntaria. ^Southernwood, . Jlrlemisia Jihrolanum. ^Speedwell Virginian. Veronica Virginica. ^Spikenard, Jlralia Racimosa. -Tansey, Tanacetum Vulgare. «^ Wormwood, Artemisia Msinthium. The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, may be raised from seeds sown in March and April. The greater part of the above described plants are Perennial, and will multiply from seeds they drop, or from partings of the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other early in the spring. The beds should be afterwards kept free from weeds, and as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place" to dry for winter use. In the month of October the beds should be examined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender herbs should be taken up, potted and placed in a frame or green house for the winter. Thymo, Hys- sop, Winter Savoury, Southernwood, Sage, Rue, and the like will require their tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansey, Pen- nyroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, Lovage, and other kind of hardy Peren- nial herbs, should be cut down close tothe ground. After this it will be proper to dig lightly and loosen 0. PLAN OP BEDS, &C. 79^ the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ; but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint,jRunning Thyme and all other creeping herbs, will not well admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds., dig the alleys and strew some of the loose earth evenly over the beds j and if the ground be rather poor or light, atop dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable service. This dressing will give proper nurture and pro- feclion to the root3 of the plants, a neat appearance to the whole, and in spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour. Concluding Directions. Having finished the catalogue, I proceed to give directions for making the most of a piece of ground well manured for early crops. In the general direc- tions at the commencement, I observed that good rich manure was indispensably necessary to the production of some particular kinds of vegetables i it maybe further observed, that rich ground will pro^ duce two or three valuable crops, but it requires some attention to make use of it to the best advaa- tage. If the gardener have leisure to dig his ground in Marcher April, that he intends for Beans, Cucum- bers, Tomatoes, Egg-Plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Radishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or other Salads on it, by leaving a space for his hills or drills ; or radish seed may be sown lightly over beds of Beets, Carrots or Parsnips, but they must not bo suffered to run to seed, as this would injure the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires a little cansideration before a second is planted, in so PLAN OP BEDS, &C. ^ order that a sufficient quantity of the best of the ground be reserved for the most pariicular and valu- able kinds of vegetables. That I maybe understood, I have adopted the following plans, representing beds of earth, this will answer the same purpose as bringing my readers on the ground : No. 1. The following lines represents drills six inche-s apart : March 25. — Sow Leek, Parsley, or Celery, &c. Do. Radish Seed, Do. Leek, Parsley, or Celery, &c. The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the intermediate ground for the other plants. iVo. 2. Drills 10 or 12 inches apart — April 1. — Sow Spinach or Radish Seed. 24. — Plant early Cabbage Plants. 1. — Sow Spinach or Radish Seeds. By the lime the Cabbages requires the whole of ihe ground, the Spinach or Radishes maybe gathered. If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of J uly, it may be planted with Celery, Tur- nips, or Black Radishes. If the Cabbages be of the PLAN OF BEDS, &C- 81 late heading kinds, the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, Fetticns, Lettuce, &c. in which case it will require a fresh coat of manure. No. 3. Rows or drills 14 inches apart : March 20. — Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants. Hoe them the first week in April- — previous to hoeing the second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and plant beet or carrot seed ; this^ may be covered up in hoeing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strorig, the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended to, they may be cleared off* soon enough to produce fall Cabbage, liCeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. No. 4. Rows or drills 16 inches apart : March 25. — Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants. April 20. — Plant early York Cabbage Plants, either between the rows or between the Lettuce. S2 PLANS OF BEDS, &C. As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage and it will soon cover the ground. This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the kinds above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with Cabbage twice in succes- sion. The above, or preceding plans, present a fair spe- cimen of what nviy be done on a small piece of good i^round. If the young gardener will take the trou- ble to keep an account of his transactions, he would soon make discoveries of still greater importance. If he be not sufficiently acquainted with the different kinds of Cabbage Plants, for instance, so as to dis- tinguish one from the other, ho, by making a memo- randum of the time of sowing the seed, would soon get acquainted with the different kinds of plants ; he would also discover the difference in the growing of his seeds, and know who to blame if any particular kind should not come up. The follov.ing represents a hot bed with four sashes, sown March 1st. I No. 1. iThorbum's Early York iCabbage Seed. No. 3. Russell's Early Lettuce No. 2, Smith's Early Battersea Cabbasre seed. No. 4. Bridgeman's Tomatoe uusb^n:. x.ar.y i.«uu^« ^^^ Egg-Plant SCCds in l'^^^^- Ishallow drills HOT BEDS 83 It may be necessary to remind ray readers of the necessity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Egg-Plant, Lettuce, and Tomatoe seeds in hot beds the last week in February or early in March, for this purpose, let some fresh stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is always safest to make a pit from eighteen inches to two reet deep ; in order to do this, a heap of dung should be deposit-, ed on the ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in ; by this means the ground will be pre- served from frost, and good earth may be obtained from the pits without any difficulty. The fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pits to the depth of twenty to twenty four inches : as soon as the dung begins to heat, cover it with six or eight inches deep of mould ; then lay on tlie sashes, and protect the beds from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days the rank steam may pass off, it will then be necessary to stir the .mould before the seeds be sown, to prevent the grov/Ui of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the seeds as equally as possible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be sown or sifted over the seeds. The beds should be after- wards attended to as directed for Brocoli and Cau^ liflower. This description of a hot bed is intended expressly for the raising of spring Cabbage, Lettuce. Tomatoes, and such other plants as may be required for early plnnting. Beds made earlier in the season, or for forcing, will require a greater substance o't" manure. Were I disposed, I might extend this work to double its bulk, but I must as I have hitherto done:- FORCING VEGETABLES. confine myself as nearly as practicable to the object mentioned in my preface. If another edition should be called for, I shall direct the attention of my fellow citizens more at large, to the advantages that may be derived from forcing vegetables. The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a small scale, is recommended by a correspondent of the Xiondon Magazine for June 1828. " Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one foot eight inches deep ; a quantitv of horse droppings, perfectly dry; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, snd soil, which must be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. Four such boxes at work, are sufficient for a mo- derate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought on at a time, and placed upon the flue of a greenhouse stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue of a hot house : the kiichen cupboard^ or any other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also convenient for afibrding a plentiful stock of superior spawn. The same sized boxes will also do for Jisparagus ; but for this purpose a sufficient stock of three year old plants must be at hand ; also eighteen boxeS;, four of which are the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanners barlf, leaf mould, or any other FORCING VEGETABLES. 85 similar mould ; on this, pack in the roots as thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place in a forcing house will suit them ; on the Hue under the stage, or in short, any place where they can enjoy the necessary degree of heat. Be- sides Asparagus and Mushrooms, Sea- Kale, Rhubarb, Buda Kale, Angelica, Small Salad, as also other pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner." Those who have not the conveniencies recom- mended in a greenhouse, &c., may place the boxes in a hot bed. The glasses being laid on and the beds covered at nights, will soon promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable luxuries at a season when garden products in general are comparatively scarce . It is unnecessary to show of how much value such processes may be in minor establishments, or in a young country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. If the ad- vice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxurie5 of the garden. My directions are founded on the success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this country. I have had also sufficient experience to warrant me in this attempt to contri- bute my mite towards the " attainment of this kind of useful knowledge." 8 S6 rLowERS, FLOWERS. *' "Whate'er has beauty, worth, or power. Or grace, or histre, is a flower ; Y>lt is a flower ; and bards prepare The flowers of fancy for the fair ; Deep in the bosom dwells a flower, Not time shall taint, nor death devour ; A Flower that no rude season fears. And VIRTUE is the fruit it bears." Inscribed to Miss *^^***. A Catalogue of Annual Flower Seeds. Alkekengi or Kite flower, Atropa physaloides. Alyssum Sweet, Ahjssuvi mariiium. § Amaranthas three co- loured, Amaranthus tricolor. Amethyst blue, Amethystea coernlea. § Balsamines of various colours, Impatiens halsamina. Bladder ketmia, Hibiscus irionum. Blue bottle great, Centaiirca cyanus major Blue bottle small. Do. cyanus minor. § Brovvallia (blue and white,) Browallia elata. § Cacalia scarlet, Cacalia coccinea. Candytuft white and pur- ple, Iberis, Do. sweet scented. Do. odorata. Catch-fly, Silme armeria. § Centaurea, great Ame- rican, Geniaurea J[mericana. FLOWERS- 87 Chrysanthemam, white, yellow, and tri-co- loured Chrysanthemum coronari- um. § Cockscomb, crimson and yellow, Celoeia cristata. ''• Convolvulus, dwarf. Convolvulus minor. Coreopsis Golden, Coreopsis tinctoria. Cuckolds Horn, (two sta- mined, Martynia diandria. Devil in a Bush or Love in a mist, Nigella damasccna. * Evening Primrose, Oenothera grandijlora. Eternal Flower, yellow, Xeranthemum lucidum. Do. purple, Do. annuum. Euphorbia, variegated. Euphorbia variegaia. Feather, grass, Stipa pinnata. Flos adonis, Adonis miniata, § Globe Amaranthus, purple, white and striped, Gomphrena globosa, Hawkweed, yellow Crepis barbata auyanlia. do. red, do. rubra. * Hedge Hogs, Medicago intertexta. § Ice Plant, Mesemhryanthemrtm . chrys tallinum. Jacobea or Groundsell, pnrple and white, Senecio elegans and alba. Job's Tears, Coix' lachryma Jobi. Larkspur, broad leaved, Delphinium peregrinium.. Bo. branching and upright, Do. consolidum. S8 I-LOTVERS^ Lavatera, European, Lavatera trimestris. Love lies bleeding, Amaranthits melancholicvs, * Lupins of various co- lours, Lupinus. Marigold, African, Tagetes erecta. Do. French, Do. patula. Marigold, starry, Calendula siellata. * Marvel of Peru, (or 4 o'clock), Mirabilisjalapa. * Mignonette (sweet scented,) Reaeda odorata. Nolana trailing, JVolana prostrata. * Oats aninriated, Avena sensativa. Pansey or Heart's Ease, Viola tricolor. * Poppy horned, Glaucum luteum. * Poppy officinal white, Fapaver somniferum. Pentapetes scarlet, Pentapetes Phcenica. Prince's feather, Amaranthus hypocondriacus § Sensitive plant, Mimosa serisitiva. Sunflower, tall and dwarf, Helianthvs annuus. Sweet Sultan, purple, - white and yellow, Ccntaurea. * Stock Ten Week or giiliflovver, various colours, Chciraniktis annuus. Touch me not, Koli me taiigere. Trefoil crimson, Triftliitni incarnatum. Do. sweet scented, Do. odorata. * Yenus's looking glass, Campanula speculum. Venu.s's navel wort, Cotyledon macrophyllmn, Ximenisia Mexican, Ximenisia ensaloides, Zinnia red and yellow. Zinnia, FLOWERS, 89 The foUb^ving are climbing plants, and will require to be planted in situations where they can be sup- ported by sticks or twiue without interfering with other plants. Balloon vine, or love in a pufF, Carcliosperimini § Cypress vine, Ipomoea coccinea. Fumitory Pink, Fumaria fungosa. Hyacinth Bean, Dolichos,purp. ^alha. Morning Glory, various colors, Convoluuhcs major. Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordica halsamina. Gourd, the bottle, Cucurhiia lagcnaria. Do. tu'O coloured. Do. licolor. Do. orange, Do. ■ aurantia. Snake Melon, Cucumis melo anguinis. Sweet Peas of various kinds and colours, Lathyms odorahts. AH kinds of annual Flower Seeds may be sown in the month of April and May, on borders or^bed?^ of clean light earth, which should be previously ma- nured with rich compost or old dung. This bein«r incorporated well with the soil, the beds should be levelled, and the seeds sov/n either in small patches. each kind by itself, or in drills from 1-4 to 1-2 an inch deep, according to the size ornature of the seed. Those who would have their plants to flower early, should sow the hardy kinds the last week in March or early in April, the most tender (which are marked §) may be sown in boxes or pots of light earth at 8* 90 PLOWERS. the same time : These, it' exposed to the sun everv day and sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded m growth, and be fit to transplant early in June. Those marked - may also be sown in small pots As these plants do not .veil bear transplanting, they should be turned out of the pots with the balls ol" earth entire, and placed in the ground where they are intended to flower ; or if the seed be sown in a bed with other kinds, they should be carefully trans- planted with a' trowel, without disturbing the roots. The most eligible way to obtain early flowers is to i>repare a slight hot bed for the tender kinds, and cither to plunge the pots therein up to their rims, or to sow the seed in the earth in shallow drills not more than a quarter of an inch deep. To prevent disappointment, I would recommend that great care be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds as possible. It cannot be denied !>ut young plants are apt to get smothered and some- times pulled up with weeds. To obviate this, I would suggest that the seeds be sown in shallow drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be kept of the contents of each drill in a book, also ot" •ill seeds that are sown at different times, and by be- ing particular in the dptos, you may always know- when to expect your plauls to come up. In order that this may be rendered plain to my readers, 1 adopt the following plan of entry of six kinds sown in pots, and six in the open ground. April 20, sowed flower seeds in pots : Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranthus tricolor. B, or 2, l*.alsamines, C, or 3, Cockscomb, crimson. i fLOWERS- 91 J), or 4, Egg Plant. E, or 5, Ice Plant. F, or 6, JSIignonette. These pots may be either marked with letters or Ij'Tures on the outside, to answer with the book, or Motches may be cut in wood, or other labels affixed fo the pots, and entered accordingly. April 20, Sowed flower seeds in drills, as under : No. 1, Bladder Ketmia. 2, Coreopsis tinctoria. S, Yellow Eternal Flower. 4, Globe amnranthus. 5, Prince's Feather. 6, Larkspur branching. it" these numbers be continued to 100, or even a' thousand, there can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked according to the entry in the book ; or if No, 1 be noted, plain sticks will answer afterwards, if one be stuck at each end of every row. In this case, it would be well to leave a space every ten or twenty rows, and note the number of the rows ? by this means they can be the more easily traced. If the book be kept by any other than the Garden- er, each bag or paper of seed should be marked or numbered according to the entry in the book, and given to the Gardener with directions to sow them in the regular order. BlEI^NIAL AND PeRENNIAL FlOWER SeEDS. Those marked || are Biennials. Bee Larkspur, Delphinium elatnm. Campion, rose, Jlgrostemma coronariop 92 FLOWERS* I j Canterbury Bells, (blue Campamda medium and white,) Cassia, Maryland, Carnation, Pink, Chinese, imperial Pink, Clove do, Colutea, scarlet, I j Clary, Purple topped, Crimson Bergamot, Columbine, double, jlFox-glove, purple, do. while, Centian, Purple, Cassia Marylandica. Dianthvs caryophyllus. Do. Chinensis. Do. hortensis. Sutherland! a Frvtacen's, Salvia sclara. Man a rda la Imiana . Aguilegia vulgaris. Digitalis purpurea. do. alba. Gentiana saponaria. Gentian, Porcelain flow- Gentiana adscendens. ered, 4 TLOWERS. I he ensuing spring. It may be remarked that bien- nials are raised principally from seed sown every year. They seldom survive the second winter to flower in perfection, unless they are renewed by cut- tings of top shoots, young flower stalks, or casual root-offsets, layers, &;c. It will be unnecessary to take this trouble unless it be with any extraordinary double-flowering plants. Some of the perennials may be increased by root ofi*se*s detached from the old plants, and planted in Spring or Autumn ; others by bottom suckers and slips of top shoots, layers, and pipings of young shoots, &c. In removing plants into the beds where they arc intended* to flower, great pains should be taken to ^ preserve some of the earth to the roots, and the grouncf ' should be previously brought into good'condition, so that they may strike freely, and produce their flowers in perfection. The plants should be so arranged that they may all be seen. The most dwarfish may be placed in front, and others in a regular gradation to the tallest behind ; or the tallest may be planted along the middle of th.- beds, and the others on each side according to their varied heights and colours. Those who may be desirous of having a complete flower garden, should procure some of the difl*erent kinds of bullous and tuberous rooted plants, such as Peonies, Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissuses, Crown Imperials, Lillies, Jonquils, Crocuses, Snow Drops^ &c. Tiiese, and all other kinds of bulbs, require a good soil, manured with old dung, and a little coarse or sea sand. The hardy kinds should be planted in October or November, from two to three or four in- I FLOWERS. 95 ches deep, according to their respective size and strength. There is n.> part of gardening which requires so much elegance of taste and fancy, as in setting off a border or bed of intermixed flowers to advantage. In assemblage with other flowers, the different kinds of hardy bulbs may be planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in diameter, three, four, five or more roots in each, according to their size and growth, and -these at suitable distances- from one another. Likewise, observe to diversify the kinds and colours, so as to display when in bloom the great-, est possible variety of shades and contrasts. Flower beds should be kept free from we^ds, and watered occasionally in the summer. In the autumm they should be covered with straw or light litter ; this should be taken off in the spring, and the ground should be hoed and dressed in such a manner as to enliven the earth around the roots of the plants, as also to give the whole a neat appearance. PLANTS KEPT IN ROOMS. The many varietes of exotic plants kept in our greenhouses thrive best in a temperature and soil., similar to thai in which nature first produced them hence those who cultivate the several kinds from various climates, have to provide suitable composts and also separate departments^ where the different degrees of heat are kept up according to the nature and de^^ scription of the plants. The generality of th0S3 t)6 FLOWERS, denominated greenhouse plants, and which are kept in rooms, should be placed where they can have light and sun, without being exposed to the frost. Air, heat, and moisture are essential to the growth of plants, but these should be given in due proportions according to circumstances. In frosty weather they should be kept from the external air, and watered.very sparingly. When water is necessary, it should be applied in the morning of a mild sunny day. The plants should be kept free from decayed leaves, and the earth at the top of the pots should be sometimes loosened to a moderate depth, and replenished ^h a portion of fresh compost. Plants kept in private houses are often killed with kindness ; the tempera- ture of a room in the winter need not be more than ten degrees above freezing. If plants are healthy, they may be kept so by attention to the preceding hints ; unhealthyness generally arises from their being subjected to the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture, or from total neglect* t ^ riNis. r ^M jL i I. i]i«.i.ii ^mu pi . ,\jmi» ' "n i tmimnm^^mmmfmimm Steae T.O WKRY GilLEN.II?OSK AT?T> 3r:r.D STORF, V, ay and JJi> 'iffF*ynQX'i :£ e^^a ' zxmtni /?f fep etJg> aim Orcan-H^^^ Vine t.->LV>n a p:«t^A>c;u ) ; TKe _ e»«i saudfwction, tie gjfcutcr jh it >>c n,; lai.- d .\v ; ha is dctftrrojned lo beU no 'tbo: 'Ns^rhaii ,,iild pant jn bis oun^y)j.s -.^ ^9 , vjH aiMene:-)'. ,: ''■■-^