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 p>:. 
 

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PARIS 
 
 D 
 
 AND ITS 
 
 ENVIRONS, 
 
 WITH 
 
 ROUTES FROM LONDON TO PARIS, 
 
 AND FROM 
 
 PARIS TO THE RHINE AND SWITZERLAND. 
 
 HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 K. BvEDEKER. 
 
 With 3 Maps and 9 Flans. 
 
 fourth EDITION, 
 
 REMODELLED AND AUGMENTED. 
 
 LEI PS IC : KARL BAEDEKER. 
 
 1874. 
 
 All Rights Reserved. 
 
‘Go, little book, God send tliee good passage, 
 And specially let this be thy prayere 
 Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
 Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, 
 Thee to correct in any part or all!’ 
 
 Chaucer. 
 
OiN'V.H- 
 
 ~£>v 
 
 Preface. 
 
 The chief object of the Handbook for Paris is to 
 render the traveller as nearly as possible independent 
 of the services of guides, commissionaires, and innkeepers, 
 and to enable him to employ his time and his money 
 to the best advantage. 
 
 Objects of general interest, described by the Editor 
 from his personal observation, are those with which the 
 Handbook principally deals. A detailed account of all the 
 specialties of Paris would of course far exceed the 
 limits of a work of this character. 
 
 Visitors to picture-galleries and other collections may 
 generally dispense with catalogues , as they will find 
 all the most interesting objects enumerated in the 
 Handbook. 
 
 The subdivision of the Plan of the city into three 
 sections of different colours, accompanied by a key-map, 
 will be found material^ to facilitate reference, as it en¬ 
 tirely obviates the necessity of unfolding several square 
 feet of paper at each consultation. 
 
 There is probably no city in the world which has ever 
 undergone such gigantic transformations in its external 
 appearance as the French metropolis during the reign of 
 Napoleon III., and few cities have ever experienced 
 so appalling a series of disasters as those which befel 
 Paris in 1870 — 71. Many unwholesome purlieus, 
 teeming with poverty and vice, were swept away under 
 the imperial regime , to make room for spacious squares, 
 noble avenues, and palatial edifices. The magnificent 
 
 245907 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 metamorphosis of Paris 'from brick to marble’ was 
 nearly complete when the gay, splendour - loving, 
 pleasure-seeking city was overtaken by the signal 
 calamities occasioned by the Franco-Prussian war and 
 the Communist rebellion. Since the restoration of peace 
 the city has in many respects resumed its former 
 appearance, but in others it has sustained such irreparable 
 losses that it must necessarily again pass through a 
 protracted transitional state. Meanwhile it may be 
 stated generally that the changes which have taken 
 place have been less considerable than might have 
 been anticipated, as the present government has done 
 its utmost to restore everything as far as possible to 
 its former condition. 
 
 It would of course be beyond the scope of the 
 Handbook to record all the momentous events of 
 1870—71, to describe the sieges of Paris by the 
 Prussians and by the French, to give an account of 
 the Communist insurrection, or to enumerate in detail the 
 terrible disasters and revolting crimes which characterised 
 the second ‘Reign of Terror’ in May (20th—28th), 1871. 
 Frequent allusions, however, to these events will be 
 found in the Handbook, and these may be here 
 supplemented by a brief enumeration of the build¬ 
 ings , public and private, which have suffered most 
 severely. 
 
 Public Buildings , Monuments. The following were 
 either totally destroyed or seriously injured, but some 
 of them have been recently restored. On the N. bank 
 of the Seine: Vendome Column, Ministere des Finances, 
 Tuileries, Bibliotheque du Louvre, Palais Royal, Theatre 
 Lyrique, Hotel de Yille, Arsenal, Grenier d’Abondance, 
 Colonne de Juillet, Caserne du Prince Eugene, Thdatre 
 de la Porte St. Martin, Docks de la Villette. — On 
 the ‘Cite’ island: Palais de Justice, Prefecture de 
 Police. — On the S. bank of the Seine: Ministere 
 des Affaires Etrangeres, Palais de la Legion d'Honneur, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 VII 
 
 Conseil d’Etat aud Cour des Comptes, Quartier (or 
 Caserne) Bonaparte, Ecole des Mines, Gobelins. 
 
 Streets , Squares, Railway Stations. The streets and 
 squares mentioned here are those in which numerous houses 
 were destroyed or seriously damaged, and the stations are 
 those which were demolished by the bombardment, or 
 wholly or partially burned down, but almost all these 
 buildings have since been restored. On the N. bank : 
 Stations of Auteuil, Passy, and the Porte de Maillot; the 
 Avenue de la Grande Armee, Place de la Concorde, Rue 
 Royale, Rue St. Honore, Rue de Rivoli, Place and Rue 
 du Louvre, Boulevard de Sebastopol; the Rues St. Martin, 
 St. Bon, de la Tacherie, and de la Coutellerie; the 
 Avenue Victoria, Quai de Gevres, Place de l’Hotel 
 de Ville, Rue St. Antoine, Place de la Bastille, Place 
 and Boulevard Mazas, Quai de la Rupee, Station de 
 Lyon, Station de Vincennes, Rue de la Roquette, 
 Boulevard Voltaire (formerly du Prince Eugene), Place 
 du Chateau d'Eau; the Rues Bondy and du Faubourg 
 St. Martin. On the S. bank : Rues du Bac, de Lille, 
 and Vavin, and the Stations d’Orleans and Mont¬ 
 parnasse. 
 
 Parks, Gardens. Bois de Boulogne, Jardin d’Ac- 
 climatation, Les Buttes Chaumont, Jardin des Plantes. 
 
 Suburbs and Environs. Most of the forts surrounding 
 Paris were totally demolished, the walls of a few only 
 having been left standing. The following places suffered 
 severely: St. Denis, Neuilly, Passy, Auteuil, St. Cloud, 
 Sevres. Meudon, Clamart, Issy, Vanves, Chatillon, 
 Choisy-le-Roi, Champigny, Bondy, La Courneuve. 
 
 As there are many travellers who merely pass 
 through Paris on their way to more distant scenes, 
 some brief itineraries to the Rhine aud Switzerland will, 
 it is hoped, be found useful. A short account of the 
 routes from London to Paris , and of the principal 
 towns of N. France, with their magnificent specimens 
 of Gothic architecture , will be acceptable alike to the 
 
 9 4 K G C 1 
 
VIII 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 archaeologist, the architect, and the unscientific visitor. 
 For fuller details, travellers are referred to Baedeker's 
 France , at present in course of preparation. 
 
 In the Handbook will be found enumerated both 
 the first-class hotels and others of humbler pretension 
 which may safely be selected by the ‘voyageur 
 en garcon , with little sacrifice of real comfort, and 
 great saving of expenditure. Those which the Editor, 
 either from his own experience, or from an examination 
 of the numerous hotel bills sent him by travellers of 
 different nationalities, believes to be most worthy of 
 commendation are denoted by asterisks. It should, 
 however, be borne in mind that hotels are liable to 
 constant changes, and that the treatment experienced 
 by the traveller is often contingent on circumstances 
 which can neither be foreseen nor controlled. 
 
Contents. 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 Page 
 
 I. Language. Money. Passports. Douane . XV 
 
 II. History and Statistics . XVIII 
 
 III. Weights and Measures . XXIX 
 
 IV. General Remarks on N. France . XXX 
 
 Preliminary Information. 
 
 1. Arrival in Paris . 1 
 
 2. Hotels . 3 
 
 3. Restaurants . 8 
 
 4. Cafds and Confectioners . 16 
 
 5. Cabs . 20 
 
 6. Omnibuses . 22 
 
 7. River Steamboats . 25 
 
 8. Railway-Stations . 26 
 
 9. Post and Telegraph Offices .. 2B 
 
 10. Shops, Bazaars, Markets . 30 
 
 11. Booksellers, Reading Rooms, Newspapers .... 38 
 
 12. Baths, Physicians, Maisons de Santd, etc . 40 
 
 13. English Divine Service. Protestant Churches ... 41 
 
 44. Embassies . 42 
 
 15. Theatres . 42 
 
 16. Concerts and Balls . 49 
 
 17. Drive through Paris ... 52 
 
 18. Distribution of Time. Diary . 53 
 
 1. The ‘Grands Boulevards’ and Environs . 59 
 
 I. Origin and Characteristics of the Boulevards . . 59 
 
 II. Place de la Bastille. Colonne de Juillet ... 61 
 
 Place des Vosges . 62 
 
 Imprimerie Nationale . 63 
 
X 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Right Bank of the Seine. 
 
 Route 
 
 III. From the Bastille to the Boulevard des Italiens . 
 Boulevards Beaumarchais, des Filles du Calvaire 
 
 and du Temple. 
 
 Place du Chateau d’Eau. 
 
 Boulevards St. Martin and St. Denis. Porte St. 
 
 Martin and Porte St. Denis. 
 
 Boulevards Bonne Nouvelle, Poissonniere, and Mont¬ 
 martre . 
 
 IV. *Tlie Bourse . 
 
 V. *Boulevards des Italiens and des Capucines . 
 
 *Nouvel-Opera. 
 
 VI. *The Vendome Column. 
 
 VI1. Boulevard et *Eglise de la Madeleine .... 
 
 Boulevard Malesherbes. 
 
 Rue Royale. St. Roeh. 
 
 2. *The Palais Royal. 
 
 Place des Victoires. 
 
 Notre Dame des Victoires. 
 
 3. *Palace and **Galleries of the Louvre. 
 
 I. The Palace. 
 
 Old Louvre. 
 
 New Louvre . 
 
 II. The Galleries. 
 
 "Assyrian Antiquities. 
 
 Antiquities from Asia Minor. 
 
 Collection of Casts. 
 
 "Egyptian Museum. 
 
 Algerian Museum. 
 
 Mediaeval and Renaissance Sculptures. 
 
 Musee des Gravures. 
 
 Modern Sculptures. 
 
 "Ancient Sculptures. 
 
 ""Picture Gallery. 
 
 Collection La Caze. 
 
 Salle des Bijoux. 
 
 "Galerie d’Apollon. 
 
 Galerie des Sept Metres. 
 
 Musde Campana. 
 
 Musee des Antiquitds. 
 
 Ancient Bronzes. 
 
 Collection of Drawings. 
 
 Musde de la Renaissance. 
 
 Musde de Marine. 
 
 Musee Etlinographique. 
 
 Musde Amdrieain. 
 
 Page 
 
 63 
 
 63 
 
 64 
 
 64 
 
 66 
 
 66 
 
 68 
 
 68 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 77 
 80 
 80 
 81 
 81 
 81 
 82 
 
 84 
 
 85 
 85 
 
 85 
 
 86 
 86 
 87 
 89 
 
 89 
 
 90 
 95 
 
 95 
 
 96 
 96 
 
 104 
 
 105 
 
 107 
 
 108 
 108 
 109 
 111 
 112 
 113 
 
 4. The Tuileries.113 
 
 *Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.113 
 
 *Jardin des Tuileries.H? 
 
 5. **Plac,e de la Concorde.113 
 
 *Obelisk of Luxor.121 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 Route Page 
 
 6. *Champs Elyse'es.122 
 
 Palais de l’Elysee.123 
 
 Palais de l’lndustrie.123 
 
 *Panorama.124 
 
 *Maison de Francois 1.124 
 
 Palais Pompdien.125 
 
 Pont de TAlma.125 
 
 7. *Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile . 125 
 
 Russian Church.125 
 
 Neuilly.127 
 
 Chapelle St. Ferdinand.127 
 
 8. *Bois de Boulogne.128 
 
 Fortifications.131 
 
 *Jardin d’Acclimatation.131 
 
 9. Parc de Monceaux.133 
 
 10. The Rue de Rivoli.134 
 
 *St. Germain l’Auxerrois.135 
 
 Boulevard de Sebastopol.- 136 
 
 *Tour St. Jacques.136 
 
 Place du Chatelet.136 
 
 St. Merri .137 
 
 11. Hotel de Ville.137 
 
 St. Gervais et St. Protais . 140 
 
 St. Paul et St. Louis.140 
 
 Muse'e Carnavalet.141 
 
 12. *St. Eustache.141 
 
 *Halles Centrales.142 
 
 Fontaine des Innocents.143 
 
 Halle an Bid.143 
 
 13. *Bibliothdque Nationale.143 
 
 Place Louvois.144 
 
 Fontaine Molidre.147 
 
 14. Conservatoire des Arts et Mdtiers .147 
 
 15. Churches to the North of the Old Boulevards . . 149 
 
 Chapelle Expiatoire . 149 
 
 St. Augustin.150 
 
 *La Trinitd.150 
 
 *Notre Dame de Lorette . 151 
 
 *St. Vincent de Paul . 151 
 
 Gares du Nord and de l’Est.152 
 
 St. Bernard.153 
 
 St. Laurent.153 
 
 16. *Pdre Lachaise.154 
 
 Cimetiere Picpus.166 
 
 17. *Les Buttes Chaumont . 167 
 
 *St. Jean Baptiste . 168 
 
XII 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 18. Montmartre.168 
 
 ^Cemetery of Montmartre.169 
 
 19. '^Vincennes and its Park.171 
 
 Place du Trone.174 
 
 Charenton.174 
 
 The Cite. 
 
 20. *Notre Dame . . •.175 
 
 *Fontaine Notre Dame.178 
 
 The Morgue.178 
 
 Hotel Dieu.178 
 
 21. *Palais de Justice and Sainte-Cliapelle.178 
 
 Tribunal de Commerce.181 
 
 Conoiergerie.182 
 
 Prefecture de Police.182 
 
 Place Dauphine.183 
 
 *Pont Neuf.184 
 
 Fontaine St. Michel.184 
 
 Left Bank of the Seine. 
 
 22. *Palais du Luxembourg (modern pictures) .... 185 
 
 *Jardin du Luxembourg.190 
 
 Statue of Marshal Ney.192 
 
 Observatory.192 
 
 32. *Panthe'on.192 
 
 Bibliotheque Sainte Genevieve.195 
 
 *St. Etienne du Mont.197 
 
 24. *Musee de Cluny or des Thermes.197 
 
 Roman Baths.199 
 
 Sorbonne.200 
 
 25. **Jardin des Plantes.201 
 
 Botanic Garden.205 
 
 26. The Gobelins.205 
 
 The Val-de-Grace .207 
 
 Deaf and Dumb Asylum.208 
 
 27. St. Sulpice. St. Germain des Prds.208 
 
 Fontaine St. Sulpice.210 
 
 28. La Monnaie. L’lnstitut.211 
 
 29. Palais des Beaux Arts.214 
 
 30. Palais du Corps Legislatif.217 
 
 Ste. Clotilde.218 
 
 St. Thomas d’Aquin.219 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XIII 
 
 Route Page 
 
 31. *Hotel des Invalides . 219 
 
 Mustfe d’Artillerie.• 222 
 
 *Napoleon’s Tomb.224 
 
 32. flcole Militaire. Champ de Mars.225 
 
 Pont d’l^na . 226 
 
 Place du Trocadtfro . 226 
 
 Manufacture des Tabacs . 226 
 
 33. *Asylum for the Blind . 227 
 
 Artesian Well of Grenelle . 228 
 
 34. Cemetery of Mont Parnasse . 228 
 
 Parc de Montsouris . 229 
 
 35. Subterranean Paris . 229 
 
 The Catacombs . 229 
 
 Drainage . 229 
 
 36. Chemin de Fer de Ceinture . 232 
 
 Environs of Paris. 
 
 37. ““"Versailles . 235 
 
 Les Trianons . 253 
 
 35. St. Cloud and Sevres . 254 
 
 39. St. Germain-en-Laye . 257 
 
 40. St. Denis . 259 
 
 Enghien-les-Bains . 266 
 
 Montmorency . 266 
 
 41. ““Fontainebleau . 266 
 
 Fort l’Empereur . 272 
 
 42. Compidgne . 272 
 
 Pontoise . 273 
 
 Chantilly . 273 
 
 Senlis .. . 274 
 
 Pierrefonds . 276 
 
 Northern France. 
 
 A. Routes from London to Paris. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 43. By Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens . 277 
 
 44. By Dover, Calais, and Amiens . 283 
 
 45. By Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen . 284 
 
 46. By Southampton, Havre, and Rouen . 290 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 B. Routes fiom Paris to the Rhine and Switzerland. 
 
 47. From Paris to Cologne, by Namur und Liege . . . 293 
 
 48. From Paris to Brussels, by Maubeugo and Mons . . 296 
 
 49. From Paris to Strasbourg, by Chalons and Nancy . . 297 
 
 50. From Paris to Metz.302 
 
 a. By Chalons and Verdun.302 
 
 b. By Frouard and Pagny.303 
 
 51. From Paris to Bale, by Troyes, Belfort, and Mulhouse 304 
 
 52. From Paris to Neuchatel by Dijon.307 
 
 53. From Paris to Geneva, by Macon, Ambdrieu, and Culoz 311 
 
 Index.313 
 
 List of Names in the Plan.320 
 
 List of Maps and Plans. 
 
 1. General Map of N. France 1 , f ,, 
 
 2. Map of the Environs of Paris } before the htle -P a S e ' 
 
 3. Plan of Paris in three Sections, after the Index. 
 
 4. Key-Plan of Paris. 
 
 5. Bois de Boulogne p. 128; 6. Pere Lachaise p. 154; 7. Jardin des Plantes 
 p. 200 ; 8. Versailles p. 238; 9. St. Germain-en-Laye p. 258; 10 Bou¬ 
 logne p. 276; 11. Dieppe p. 284; 12. Le Havre p. 290. 
 
 Abbreviations 
 
 M. = Engl, mile; hr. = hour; min. = minute; r. = right; 1. = left; 
 N. = north, northwards, northern; S. = south, etc. ; E. = east, etc.; 
 W. = west, etc. ; R. == room; B. = breakfast; D/= dinner ; A. = atten¬ 
 dance ; L. = light. 
 
 Asterisks 
 
 are used as marks of commendation. 
 
Introduction. 
 
 I. Language. Money. Passports. Custom-House. 
 
 Language. For those who wish to derive instruction as well as 
 pleasure from a visit to Paris, the most attractive treasury of art 
 and industry in the world, some acquaintance with French 
 is indispensable. The metropolis of France, it is true, possesses 
 English hotels, English professional men, English ‘valets de 
 place’, and English shops; but the visitor who is dependent 
 upon these is necessarily deprived of many opportunities of becom¬ 
 ing acquainted with the most interesting characteristics of Paris. 
 
 Money. The decimal Monetary System of France is extreme¬ 
 ly convenient in keeping accounts. The Banque de France 
 issues Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50,25,20, 10, 
 and 5 francs. The French Gold coins are of the value of 100, 
 50, 40, 20, 10, and 5 francs; Silver coins of 5, 2, 1, */ 2 , and */s 
 franc; Copper of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centime (100 centimes = 
 1 franc). ‘-Sou’ is the old name, still in common use, for 5 cen¬ 
 times; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes termed ‘une piece de 
 cent sous’, 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, J / 2 O'- = 10 sous. 
 Italian, Belgian, and Swiss gold and silver coins are also received 
 at their full value ; but the only foreign copper coins current in 
 France are those of Italy, and occasionally the English penny [and 
 halfpenny, which nearly correspond to the 10 and 5 centime piece 
 respectively. 
 
 English banknotes, gold, and even silver are generally received 
 at the full value, except at the shops of the money-changers, 
 where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the beginning of 
 the book shows the comparative value of the French, English, and 
 American currencies, when at par. The list of coins in circulation 
 in Germany will be acceptable to travellers bound for the Rhine. 
 The currency of Switzerland is the same as that of France. 
 
 Foreign bills of exchange on Paris, before being presented for 
 payment, must be furnished with a stamp of 5c. per 100 fr.. to be 
 procured at the Timbre National, Rue de la Banque 13, or at any of 
 the tobacconists’ shops. 
 
XVI 
 
 PASSPORTS. 
 
 The expense of a visit to Paris depends of course on the tastes 
 and habits of the traveller. If he selects a hotel of a high class, 
 dines at the table d’hote, or perhaps the ‘Diner de Paris’, partakes 
 of wine of good though not extravagant quality, visits the theatres, 
 and finally indulges in suppers a la carte , he must be prepared to 
 spend at least 30 fr. a day. Those however, who visit Paris for its 
 monuments, its galleries, its collections, and not for its pleasures, 
 will have little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the 
 Handbook, in limiting their expenditure to 15—20 fr. a day. It 
 need hardly be observed, that, in a city where luxury is raised to a 
 science, and where temptations to extravagance meet one at every 
 step, each traveller must be his own mentor. 
 
 Passports. The obnoxious passport system was revived after 
 the war of 1870—71, but has recently been again abolished. A 
 passport, however, must he shown by the traveller when he applies 
 for registered letters, and is often useful in procuring him admission 
 to museums and galleries on the days when they are not open to the 
 public. The visa of a French ambassador or consul is now unneces¬ 
 sary. Application for passports may be made to W. J. Adams , 59 
 Fleet Street; Lee and Carter, 440 Strand; E. Standford, 6 Cha¬ 
 ring Cross; or Letts and Co., 8 Royal Exchange. 
 
 Custom House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de¬ 
 tention at the ‘douane’ or custom-house, travellers are strongly re¬ 
 commended to avoid carrying with them any articles that are not 
 absolutely necessary. Cigars and tobacco are chiefly sought for by 
 the custom-house officers. Six cigars and about an ounce of tobacco 
 only are free of duty. Each cigar above six pays a duty of 10 c. 
 Books and newspapers occasionally give rise to suspicion and may in 
 certain cases be confiscated. 
 
 II. History and Statistics. 
 
 History. At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, 
 the Parisii were a tribe settled on the banks of the Sequana or 
 Seine, and their chief town was Lutetia, situated on the present is¬ 
 land of La Cite. 
 
 The first event worthy of mention was the introduction of 
 Christianity by St. Denis the Areopagite, who , according to tradi¬ 
 tion. suffered martyrdom on Montmartre about the year 250. 
 
 Constantius Chlorus is said to have founded the Palais des 
 Thermes (p. 147) between 292 and 306. 
 
 Julian resided at Lutetia in 360. The name of the town was 
 then changed to Parisii, and political franchises were granted to it. 
 
 In the vicinity of Paris, Gratian was defeated and slain by 
 Maximus in 383. 
 
II. HISTORY. 
 
 XVII 
 
 Clovis, son of Childeric, king of Tournay , finally expelled the 
 Romans about the year 496, embraced Christianity. and became 
 the founder of the Merovingian dynasty. He erected a church to 
 St. Peter and St. Paul, which he subsequently dedicated to Ste. 
 Genevieve who died in his reign. Few of the monarchs of this 
 or the subsequent dynasty resided at Paris. 
 
 Pepin, in 752, was the founder of the second or Carlovin- 
 gian dynasty. 
 
 Charlemagne, 768. 
 
 Louis I. (Le Debonnaire), 814. 
 
 Charles II. (Le Chauve), 840. Paris sacked by the Normans, 
 857. — The subsequent monarchs neglected the city, and, when 
 it was again attacked by the Normans in 885, left it to its own 
 resources. This dynasty was therefore deposed, and the crown 
 given to Count Odo , who had been instrumental in repelling 
 the Normans. Under his descendant 
 
 Hugh Capet, 987, the city rapidly increased and a palace, 
 the present Palais de Justice, was begun. 
 
 Robert (Le Pieux), 996. 
 
 Henri I., 1031. French crusades under Godfrey de Bouillon. 
 
 Philip I., 1060. 
 
 Louis VI. (Le Gros ), 1108, founded a palace on the site of 
 the Louvre. 
 
 Louis VII. (Le Jeune) , 1137. His divorced wife, Eleanor of 
 Guienne and Poitou, married Henry Plantagenet, afterwards 
 Henry II. of England. Foundation-stone of Notre Dame laid by 
 Pope Alexander III. 1163. Suger , abbot of St. Denis, the king’s 
 minister. 
 
 Philip II. (Auguste), 1180, considerably extended the city, 
 and surrounded it with a wall and turrets. Third Crusade, 1189. 
 The English, Flemish, and German troops defeated at Bou- 
 vines, 1214. 
 
 Louis VIII. (Le Lion), 1223. 
 
 Louis IX. (St. Louis), 1226. Crusades to Egypt and Tunis. 
 Paris obtains various municipal privileges. The University found¬ 
 ed by Robert Sorbon, 1250. 
 
 Philip III. (Le Hardi), 1270. 
 
 Philip IV. (Le Bel), 1285, founded several courts of justice. 
 He caused the transfer of the papal residence to Avignon, and 
 in 1307 abolished the order of Knights Templar. 
 
 Louis X. (Le Hutin), 1314. 
 
 Philip V. (Le Long), 1316. 
 
 Charles IV. (L,eBel), 1322, died without issue. The House 
 of Valois succeeds. 
 
 Philip VI. , 1328. War with England, 1338. Battle of 
 Crecy , 1346. 
 
 B^deker. Paris. 4th Edition. t, 
 
XV1I1 
 
 II. HISTORY. 
 
 John II. (Le Bon ), 1350; defeated and taken prisoner by the 
 English at Maupertuis , 1356. Peace of Bretigny , 1360. 
 
 Charles Y. (Le Sage), 1361, founded the Royal Library, the 
 Bastille, and the Palais des Tournelles. The city extended and 
 re-fortified. The English expelled by Bertrand du Guesclin. 
 
 Charles YI., 1380, became insane twelve years afterwards. 
 The French defeated by Henry V. of England at Azincourt, 
 1415. Paris occupied by the English, 1421. 
 
 Charles VII., 1422. The siege of Orleans raised by Joan 
 of Arc, 1429. The English expelled. Paris devastated by famine 
 and plague. 
 
 Louis XI. , 1461. Introduction of printing and establishment 
 of post-office. 
 
 Charles VIII. , 1483; conquered Naples, 1495. 
 
 Louis XII. , '■Le pere du peuple', 1498, first king of the 
 younger branch of the House of Valois, conquered Milan and fin 
 alliance with the Spaniards) Naples. Having quarrelled with his 
 Spanish allies, he was defeated by them on the Garigliano in 1503, 
 on which occasion Bayard was present. The League of Cambrai 
 formed for the purpose of expelling the Venetians from the main¬ 
 land of Italy. The Venetians conquered at Agnadello, 1509. 
 The French defeated at Ravenna, 1512. 
 
 Francis I., 1515. The city was probably more consider¬ 
 ably altered and improved in this than in any of the preceding 
 
 reigns. Many new edifices were erected, churches repaired, and the 
 fortifications extended. Palace of the Louvre and Hotel de Ville 
 begun. Wars with the Emperor Charles V.; Francis defeated and 
 taken prisoner at Pavia, 1525. 
 
 Henri II., 1547, husband of Catherine de Medicis , acciden¬ 
 tally killed at a tournament (p. 62). Final expulsion of the 
 
 English. 
 
 Francis II., 1559, husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland. 
 
 Charles IX., 1560. The Tuileries erected. Massacre of 
 St. Bartholomew, 24th August, 1572. 
 
 Henri III., 1574, brother of his two predecessors, assassi¬ 
 nated at St. Cloud by Jacques Cldment, a Dominican friar. 
 
 Henri IV. , 1589 , first monarch of the House of Bourbon, 
 conquered the Roman Catholic League at Arques in 1589, and at 
 Ivry in 1590, became a Roman Catholic in 1593, besieged and 
 captured Paris in 1594. Sully his minister. Religious toleration 
 granted by the Edict of Nantes. Henry divorced from Margaret 
 of Valois in 1599, married Marie de Me'dicis the following year; 
 assassinated by Ravaillacin 1610. The metropolis greatly embellished 
 during this reign. The Pont Neuf completed, additions made 
 to the Louvre and Tuileries. 
 
 Louis XIII., 1610, banished his mother Marie de Me'dicis, 
 who died at Cologne in 1642. Richelieu his minister (d. 1642). 
 
II. HISTORY. 
 
 XIX 
 
 English fleet defeated at Rhe, 1627; La Rochelle taken from the 
 Huguenots. The Palais Cardinal (now ‘Royal’) begun by 
 Richelieu, and the Luxembourg by Marie de Me'dicis. New bridges, 
 quays, and streets constructed. Jardin des Plantes laid out. 
 
 Louis X1Y. , 1643, under the regency of his mother, Anne 
 of Austria. Ministers: Mazarin (d. 1661), Louvois (d. 1691), and 
 Colbert (d. 1683). Generals: Turenne (d. 1675), Conde' (d. 1686), 
 Marshal Luxembourg (d. 1695). 
 
 War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Conde 
 defeated the Spaniards at Rocroy , 1643, and at Lens in Holland 
 in 1645. Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the Pyrenees, 1659. 
 
 Louis married Maria Theresa , 1660. Part of Flanders con¬ 
 quered , 1667. Peace of Aix-la-C’hapelle, 1668. — War with 
 Holland, 1672. Peace of Nymwegen, 1678. Strasbourg occupied, 
 1681. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685. Devastation of 
 the Palatinate. The French fleet defeated by the English at 
 La Hogue, 1692. Peace of Ryswyk, 1697. 
 
 Spanish war of succession, 1701; the French frequently de¬ 
 feated by Marlborough and Prince Eugene. Peace of Utrecht and 
 Rastadt, 1714. 
 
 During this reign upwards of eighty new streets and thirty- 
 three churches were constructed. Hotel des Invalides, Observatory, 
 and the colonnade of the Louvre completed. Colle'ge Mazarin, 
 Gobelins, triumphal arches, etc. begun. Fortifications converted 
 into boulevards. 
 
 Louis XV., 1715, under the regency of the Duke of Orleans. 
 Polish and Austrian wars of succession. Seven years’ war with 
 England. Successes of Frederick the Great and Ferdinand Duke 
 of Brunswick against the French; battles of Rossbach, Crefeld, 
 Minden, etc. 
 
 The Pantheon, Ecole Militaire, Palais du Corps Legislatif,. 
 Hotel des Monnaies, and many other important buildings were 
 erected during this reign. Jardin des Plantes extended. 
 
 Louis XVI., 1774. 
 
 1789. Revolution. Assembly of the States General at Versailles, 
 5th May. Formation of the National Assembly, 17th June. Storming 
 of the Bastille, 14th July. Confiscation of ecclesiastical pro¬ 
 perty, 2nd Nov. 
 
 1790. National fete in the Champ de Mars. 
 
 1791. The Emigration. The king and royal family escape 
 from Paris , hut are intercepted at Varennes, 20th June. 
 
 1792. War with Austria, 20th April. Storming of the Tuile- 
 ries, 10th Aug. The king arrested, 13th Aug. The National 
 Convention opened, and royalty abolished, 21st Sept. Republic 
 proclaimed, 25th Sept. 
 
 1793. Louis XVI. beheaded , 20th Jan. Republican reckoning 
 
 b* 
 
XX 
 
 11. HISTORY. 
 
 of time introduced, 2'2nd Sept. j. Reign of Terror. The queen 
 beheaded, 16th Oct. Worship of Reason introduced, 10th Nov. 
 Loss of Belgium. 
 
 1794. Robespierre's fall and execution, 28th July. Jourdan’s 
 ■victory at Fleurus. Belgium reconquered. 
 
 1795. Conquest of Holland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander 
 of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Da- 
 nican, 3rd Oct. Directory established, 28th Oct. 
 
 1796. Bonaparte’s successes in Italy (Milan, Areole, Rivoli, 
 Mantua, etc.). 
 
 1797. Peace of Campo Formio. Change in the Directory 
 caused by the ‘Revolution of 18th Fructidor’, 4th Sept. 
 
 1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pyramids, 21st July. 
 Defeated by Nelson at the battle of the Nile, 1st Aug. 
 
 1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney 
 Smith. Victory of Aboukir , 25th July. Fall of the Directory, 
 9th Nov. Bonaparte First Consul, 25th Dec. 
 
 1800. Bonaparte’s passage of the St. Bernard, 13th May. Vic¬ 
 tories at Piacenza, Montebello, and Marengo. Moreau victorious 
 at Hohenlinden, 3rd Dec. 
 
 1801. Peace of Lune'ville with Germany, 9th Feb. 
 
 1802. Peace of Amiens with England, 27th March. 
 
 1804. Napoleon Bonaparte proclaimed Emperor, 18th May; 
 crowned by Pope Pius VII., 2nd Dec. 
 
 1805. Renewal of war with Austria. Battle of Austerlitz, 2nd Dec. 
 Peace of Pressburg, 26t,h Dec. 
 
 1806. War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstaedt. Entry 
 into Berlin , 27th Oct. 
 
 1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Battles of Eylau and 
 Friedland. Treaty of Tilsit, 8th July. 
 
 1808. War in Spain. 
 
 1809. Conquest of Saragossa. Renewed war with Austria. 
 Battle of Eckmuhl. Vienna entered, 13th May. Battle of Wagram. 
 Peace of Vienna, 14th Oct. 
 
 1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise, daughter of 
 Francis II. of Austria, 11th March. 
 
 1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and 
 the Moskowa. Moscow entered, loth Sept. Retreat begun 
 
 (■ The year had 12 months: Veudemiaire (month of the vendange, 
 or vintage) from 22nd Sept, to 21st Oct., Brumaire (brume, fog) 22nd Oct. 
 to 20th Nov., Frimaire (frimas, hoar-frost) 21st Nov. to 20th Dec., were 
 the three autumn-months; — Nivose (neige , snow) 21st Dec. to 19th Jan., 
 Pluvidse (pluie , rain) 20th Jan. to 18th Feb., Ventose (vent, wind) 
 19th Feb. to 20tli March , winter - months ; — Germinal ( germe , germ), 
 21st March to 19th April, Floreal (Hem , flower) 20th April to 19th May, 
 Prairial ( prairie , meadow) 20th May to 18th June, spring-months; — 
 Messidor (moisson , harvest) 19t.h June to 18tli July, Thermidor (therme, 
 warmth) 19th July to 17th Aug., Fructidor (fruit, fruit) 19th Aug. to 
 
II. HISTORY. 
 
 XXI 
 
 19th Oct. Passage of the Beresina. — Wellington’s victory at 
 Salamanca. 
 
 1813. Battles of Liitzen, Dresden , Leipzig , Hanau , etc. 
 
 1814. Battles of Brienne, Montmirail, Laon, Arcis sur Aube, 
 and Paris. Entrance of the allies into Paris, 31st March. Ab¬ 
 dication of the Emperor, 11th April. His departure for Elba, 
 4th May. First Treaty of Paris, 30th May. 
 
 The frightful scenes of devastation enacted duringthe Revolution, 
 especially in 1793, were at least beneficial in sweeping away the 
 overgrown conventual establishments, which occupied the best sites 
 and one-third of the area of the city. Under the Directory the 
 museum of the Louvre was begun. Vast improvements were effected 
 under Napoleon; the mean buildings which formerly occupied the 
 Place du Carrousel were demolished; the N. gallery between the 
 Louvre and the Tuileries and the handsome Rue de Itivoli were 
 begun ; new streets, spacious markets, three bridges, several quays, 
 canals, etc. constructed; numerous fountains and monuments 
 erected ; churches restored and embellished ; the Bourse and other 
 public edifices founded. 
 
 1814. Restoration. Louis XVIII. proclaimed King. 
 
 1815. Napoleon’s Teturn from Elba. Battles of Ligny and 
 Waterloo. Second entrance of the allies into Paris, 7th July. 
 Napoleon banished to St. Helena, where he died (5th May, 1821). 
 
 1823. Spanish campaign. 
 
 1824. Chari, ns X. 
 
 1830. Conquest of Algiers. Revolution of July. Louis Phi¬ 
 lippe elected King, 7th Aug. 
 
 1848. Revolution of February. Republic. Sanguinary con¬ 
 flicts in Paris, 23rd to 26th June. Louis Napoleon elected 
 President. 
 
 1851. Dissolution of the Assemblee Legislative , 2nd Dec. 
 
 Civic improvements progressed comparatively slowly under 
 
 Louis XVIII. and Charles X. Under Louis Philippe they were 
 resumed with fresh vigour. Many handsome new streets were 
 opened , churches and public edifices completed, vast works un¬ 
 dertaken for the drainage of the city, new bridges and quays con¬ 
 structed. gardens and squares laid out, etc., at an outlay exceed¬ 
 ing 100 million francs. 
 
 1852. Napoleon III., Emperor , elected by universal suffrage 
 ( plebiscite ), 2nd Dec. 
 
 1854. War with Russia. Crimean campaign. 
 
 1859. War with Austria. Battle of Solferino. Peace of 
 Villafranca. 
 
 16th Sept., summer months. — Each month had 30 days and consisted of 
 3 decads, weeks being abolished. At the dose of the year there were 
 5 jours complimentaires , 17th Sept, to 21st. — The republican calendar 
 was discontinued by a decree of 9th Sept., 1805. 
 
XXII 
 
 II. STATISTICS. 
 
 1861. Mexican expedition. 
 
 1870. War with Prussia. 
 
 19th July. Declaration of war. 
 
 Battles of Weissenburg (4th Aug.), Worth (6th Aug.), 
 
 Spichern (6th Aug.), Metz (14th, 16th, and 18th Aug.), 
 
 Beaumont (30th Aug.). 
 
 1st Sept. Battle of Sedan. Surrender of Napoleon 111. 
 
 4th Sept. Proclamation of the Republic. 
 
 27th Sept. Capitulation of Strasbourg. 
 
 27th Oct. Capitulation of Metz. 
 
 2nd—4th. Dec. Battles near Orleans. 
 
 1871. 19th Jan. Battle of St. Quentin. 
 
 28th Jan. Capitulation of Paris. 
 
 1st March. Entry of German troops into Paris. 
 
 18th March. Communist Insurrection. 
 
 2nd April. Second siege of Paris. 
 
 10th May. Peace of Frankfort. 
 
 25th May. Paris occupied by the Government troops. 
 
 No city in the world has ever witnessed such gigantic- 
 improvements as Paris under the last re'gime. Dense masses 
 of houses and numbers of tortuous streets were replaced by broad - 
 boulevarts, spacious squares, and palatial edifices. Public w'orks 
 of colossal magnitude were undertaken, whilst those begun 
 in former reigns were brought to a successful completion. Em¬ 
 bellishments on the most extensive scale were effected in the 
 public parks and gardens , and, what is of incalculable importance, 
 the city was thoroughly well drained, lighted, paved, and supplied 
 with water. Paris still reaps the benefit of many of these 
 Napoleonic improvements, but it need hardly be said, that the 
 irreparable losses it has recently sustained have deprived it of 
 much of its former attractiveness. 
 
 Population. According to the last census (Jan., 1873) Paris 
 contained 1,851,792 (665,000 in 1788) souls, exclusive of Foreign 
 residents. The Germans settled at Paris (80,000) and in other parts 
 of France were expelled in 1870 after the first calamities of the 
 French armies, in violation of the principles of international law. 
 About one-third of the births are illegitimate. The number of 
 Protestants is estimated at 62,000, Jews 20,000, dissentient 
 30,000, the remainder being Roman Catholics. 
 
 Extent. The circumference of Paris is upwards of 21 miles; 
 its area about 25 sq. miles. The Boulevard de Sevastopol, the 
 longest street, is about 2 M. in length. 
 
 Revenues. The budget of the city of Paris for 1874 amounts 
 to 226,650,721 fr., the expenditure being equal to the receipts. 
 The following items deserve mention. For educational purposes 
 9,765,000 fr. ; maintenance of the poor 15,039,000 fr. ; promenades 
 and works of art 7,145,000 fr. ; lighting of streets 5,053,000 fr. Paris- 
 
III. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 XXIII 
 
 at present contains 640 primary schools, 520 of which are conducted 
 by lay and 120 by ecclesiastical superintendents. The total number 
 of pupils is about 200,000. The inner boulevards, forming one of 
 the most frequented thoroughfares in Paris, are daily traversed by 
 24,099 horses, and 32,052 daily pass through the former Barriere 
 de l’Etoile, leading to the Bois de Boulogne. Since 1859 the water- 
 conduits have been extended by upwards of 40 M., the drains by 
 25M. (total length upwards of 250 M.). The annual interest of 
 the municipal debt and sinking fund is at present (1874) 78,236,654 
 fr. ; the expenses of the Prefecture de Police 19,859,000 fr. 
 
 III. Weights and Measures. 
 
 (In use since 1799.) 
 
 The English values of the French weights and measures are 
 given approximately. 
 
 Millier = 1000 kilogrammes = 19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz. 
 Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 2>/ 5 lbs. avoirdupois = 
 27 /jo lbs. troy. 
 
 Quintal = 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes - 220 lbs. 
 
 Hectogramme (}/ i0 kilogramme) = 10 de'cagrammes = 100 gr. 
 = 1000 de'cigrammes. (100 grammes = 3 1 / 5 oz .; 10 gr. 
 = 'k oz - > ”72 gr- = 74 o z 0 
 
 Myriametre = 10,000 metres = 6'/ 5 Engl, miles. 
 
 Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs. 
 
 Hectometre = 10 de'cametres = 100 metres. 
 
 Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe¬ 
 rical distance from the equator to the pole = 3,0784 
 (about 3>/i 3 ) Paris feet = 3,281 Engl. feet=l yd. 3>/ 3 in. 
 De'cimetre (7io metre) = 10 centimetres = 100 millimetres. 
 
 Hectare (square hectometre) = 100 ares = 10,000 sq. metres 
 = 2'/ 2 acres. 
 
 Are (square de'cametre) = 100 sq. metres. 
 
 De'ciare = 1 / 1 o ar e = 10 sq. metres. 
 
 Centiare = '/too are = 1 sq. metre. 
 
 Hectolitre = l/ 10 cube metre =100 litres = 22 gallons. 
 De'calitre = */ioo cubd metre = 10 littres = 2 l / 5 gals. 
 Litre, unit of capacity, = l 3 / 4 pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts. 
 
XXVI 
 
 IV. GENERAL REMARKS ON N. FRANCE. 
 
 stations, to which a few only of the hotels send their own; 
 vehicles. Fare 30—40 c., luggage 20—30 c. more. The traveller’s 
 taste for light literature may be gratified by a purchase at the 
 book-stalls at the stations. The principal newspapers are sold 
 at 5—10 c. more here than in the town. 
 
 Hotels of the highest class and fitted up with every modern 
 comfoTt are found in such towns only as Havre, Rouen, Dieppe, and 
 Tours, where the influx of visitors is very great. In other places 
 the inns generally retain their primitive provincial characteristics, 
 which , were it not for their frequent want of cleanliness, might 
 prove rather an attraction than otherwise. Usual charges at 
 houses of the latter description: R. 2 fr. , L. 25—50 c., A. 
 50 c. As a rule the table d’hote dinner (3—4 fr.) at 5. 30 or 
 6 o’clock is recommended, as a tolerable repast is not easily 
 procured at other places or hours. The de'jeuner (11/ 2 —2 fr.) 
 at 10 or 11 o’clock will generally be regarded as superfluous by 
 the English traveller, especially as it occupies a considerable 
 time during the best part of the day. A slight luncheon at 
 a cafd, which may be partaken of at any hour, thus leaving 
 the traveller entire master of his time, will be found far more 
 convenient and expeditious. In southern districts, as on the 
 Loire , wine is usually included in the charge for dinner. In 
 Normandy a kind of cider is frequently drunk in addition to, 
 or as a substitute for wine. The usual fee for attendance at 
 hotels is 1 fr. per day, if no charge is made in the bill; if 
 service is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected. 
 At the cafe's also the waiters expect a trifling gratuity, but the 
 obnoxious system is not carried to such an extent as in the 
 metropolis. 
 
 The Churches, especially the more important, are open the 
 whole day; but, as divine service is usually performed in the 
 morning and evening, the traveller will find the middle of day 
 or afternoon the most favourable time for visiting them. The 
 attendance of the sacristan, or ‘Suisse’, is seldom necessary; 
 the usual gratuity is J /2 f r -i unless the contrary is stated in the 
 following pages. 
 
 Considerable English communities are resident in many of 
 the towns mentioned in the Handbook, and opportunities of 
 attending English churches are frequent (e. g. at Calais, Boulogne, 
 Dieppe, Havre, Rouen, etc.). 
 
 The Museums are generally open to the public on Sundays 
 and Thursdays from 12 to 4 o’clock, when they are often crowded. 
 Visitors may always obtain access at other times for a gratuity 
 (1 fr.). Catalogues may be borrowed from the concierge. 
 
PARIS. 
 
 PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 
 
 I. ARRIVAL IN PARIS. 
 
 The traveller with little luggage is of course the most in¬ 
 dependent. Small portmanteaus or travelling-bags carried by the 
 owner himself are rarely opened by the officials of the Octroi 
 (municipal tax on bread, meat, etc.); but larger trunks or boxes 
 are sometimes examined. Travellers with through tickets from Eng¬ 
 land, Belgium, and Germany, whose luggage is booked to Paris 
 direct, usually undergo the custom-house (Vouane) examination at 
 Paris instead of at the frontier. This formality occupies 15 — 
 20 min. 
 
 As soon as the traveller is released from the Douane, ho 
 should secure the services of a porter ( facteur , 15 — 20 c.), 
 and direct his luggage to be taken to the nearest fiacre (fares, 
 see p. 21). Or, better still, lest there should be a scarcity of 
 cabs, he may engage one immediately on his arrival, telling the 
 driver to wait for the luggage (‘restez pour attendre Les bagages'), 
 and receiving from him his printed number, and then proceed 
 to superintend the examination of luggage. In this case 25 c. 
 must be paid in addition to the fare for the first 1/4 hr., after 
 which the fare per hour is charged. If the traveller is doubtful 
 of obtaining accommodation at the hotel he has selected, he had 
 better at once engage his fiacre h I'heure. 
 
 The Omnibuses are not recommended to the traveller with 
 luggage, unless they actually pass the door of the house where 
 he intends to alight (fare 30 c., from midnight till (i a. m. 60 c., 
 luggage 30 — 50 c., comp. p. 21). 
 
 The Omnibus de Famille is a comfortable and comparatively 
 inexpensive conveyance for families or large parties. These 
 vehicles generally belong to the hotel-keepers, from whom they 
 must be ordered by letter, stating by what train the party may 
 be expected. Or application may be made to the Chef de Gare f. 
 
 t A Monsieur le Chef lie Gare de la Station . d Paris. 
 
 Monsieur , je vous prie d'avoir bien iobligeance de me faire venir 
 au train de . . lieu res tin omnibus de famille de . . places. 
 
 Veuillez bien , Monsieur , excuser mon importunity el recevoir it 
 I'avance mes remerciments et Cassurance de via haute consideration. 
 Bssdeker. Paris. 4th Edition. ( 
 
2 
 
 1. ARRIVAL IN PARIS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 From the stations du Nord, de l'Est, and de l’Ouest the charge 
 is 5 fr. for an omnibus for 7 pers., and 8 fr. for 14- pers., about 
 
 2 cwt. of luggage being allowed for the party. From the 
 
 stations de Lyon and d’Orleans the charge amounts to about 1 fr. 
 for each person. 
 
 Travellers arriving late at night had better engage a porter 
 
 (facteur) and proceed on foot to the nearest hotel. Near the 
 
 Station du Nord may be mentioned the Hotel Cailleux (R. 3—4 
 fr.), and the Grand Hotel du Chemin de Fer du Nord, both 
 in the Place Roubaix. (Plan, red, 10), opposite the station; and 
 the Hotel de St. Quentin, Rue St. Quentin 27. These hotels 
 are also restaurants. — Near the Strasbourg Station (de l’Est) may 
 be mentioned: In the Rue de Metz (on that side of the station 
 
 where trains arrive), the Grand Hotel de St. Laurent, No. 4; 
 
 Hotel de la Gare , No. 2; Hotel de Bale, No. 6 . In the Rue de 
 Strasbourg (reached by passing the front of the station) : Hotel de 
 France et d'Allemagne , No. 1; Ville de Neiv York, No. 5; Hotel 
 du Chemin de Fer, No. II. In the Rue d’Alsace (on that side of 
 
 the station from which the trains start): Hotel de Lorraine, No. 3 ; 
 
 Hotel des Ardennes, No. 7. In the Boulevard de Strasbourg, opposite 
 the station : Grand Hotel de Strasbourg, No. 78 ; Hotel de Mulhouse, 
 No. 87 ; Hotel de Paris, No. 72 (R. 2—4 fr., L. and A. 1 fr.) ; Hotel 
 de VEurope, No. 74 (R. and A. 2—3 fr). — Near the Station de 
 L’Ouest (Rive Droite), or Gare St. Lazare (Ligne de Normandie) : Ho¬ 
 tels de Londres and de Neiv York , opposite the station; Anglo- 
 Americain, Rue St. Lazare, No. 113 (opposite the station); d’Angle- 
 terre, Rue St. Lazare 118; de Mayence, Rue d J Amsterdam (to the 1. 
 on arriving), No. 20; de Dieppe, No. 22, and de Rome, No. 15, in the 
 same street(R. 3—4fr.). — The Station de VOuest (Rive Gauche), ot 
 Gare Montparnasse (Ligne de Bretagne), and the Gare de Lyon , 
 being situated at a distance from the centre of the town, the hotels 
 near them are unpretending. The best near the Gare Montparnasse 
 are the Grand Hotel de France et de Bretagne , on the side from 
 which trains depart (R. 3—4, L. and A. 1 fr.), and the Hotel de 
 la Marine et des Colonies, on the side where trains arrive. Near 
 the Gare de Lyon is the Hotel Jules Cesar, Avenue Lacuee 48, 
 at the corner of the Rue de Lyon, which lies opposite the station. 
 — Travellers arriving by the Ligne d’Orleans had better sleep at 
 the last named hotel, which is not far off, there being none worthy 
 of mention near the Orleans station. 
 
 In order to save time , the traveller should ( if possible , before 
 starting from home write the applications for permission to visit 
 objects of interest not shown to the general public, leaving 
 them open, however, as sealed letters are liable to seizure at 
 the custom-house. Suitable forms, where necessary, will be found 
 in the Handbook. 
 
 To ensure civility from servants, officials, and others, the trav- 
 
Information. 
 
 2. HOTELS. 
 
 3 
 
 eller in France should accustom himself to the inevitable 's'il vous 
 plait', when ordering refreshments at a cafd or restaurant, or 
 making any request. Thus He cordon, s'il vous plait’ is the ex¬ 
 pression used in requesting the concierge to open the house- 
 door. It is customary to address persons of even humble station 
 as ‘ Monsieur ", 'Madame’, or 'Mademoiselle'. 
 
 The Serpents de Ville, or Gardiens de la Paix, who are to be 
 met with in every street and public resort, are always ready 
 to give information when civilly questioned. The Parisian police 
 are so efficient and well-organised, that street-robberies are less 
 frequent in Paris than in most other large towns. Beware, however, 
 of pickpockets, who are as adroit as the police are vigilant, and are 
 particularly apt to victimise strangers. 
 
 The Parisian directory, familiarly known as Bottin, which may 
 be consulted at the principal hotels and cafes, will often be found 
 useful by those who make a prolonged stay at Paris. 
 
 2. HOTELS. 
 
 During the Exhibition of 18G7 hotel-charges at Paris were 
 considerably raised, and though afterwards somewhat reduced, 
 they have again risen since the disasters of 1871. The average 
 charges of the last few years are stated in the Handbook. As a 
 rule, ‘vin ordinaire’ is included in the charge for breakfast and 
 dinner. Enquiry as to prices should be made beforehand, when 
 a prolonged stay is contemplated. In this case the bill should be 
 obtained every two or three days, in order that errors, whether 
 accidental or designed, may be detected. When the traveller 
 intends to start in the morning, he had better pay, or at least 
 examine, his bill over night, as overcharges are apt to escape 
 detection in the hurry and confusion of departure. 
 
 Attendance is always an item in the hotel-bill, but it is usual 
 to give the head-waiter and the concierge a fee of 1—2 fr. each 
 per week, and the under-waiter by whom the traveller has been 
 served, about 2 fr. When, as is often the case at the maisons 
 meublees, the payment for service is discretionary, a sum at the 
 rate of t/j—l fr. per day should be distributed among the servants 
 at the end of the traveller's stay, besides which an additional 
 gratuity may occasionally be given to ensure civility. 
 
 Articles of Value should never be kept in the drawers or cup¬ 
 boards at hotels. The traveller’s own trunk is probably safer; 
 but it is better to entrust them to the landlord, from whom a 
 receipt should be required, or to send them to a banker. 
 
 Right Bank of the Seine. The largest hotels at Paris, and 
 perhaps in Europe, are the two following: *Ghand Hotel nu 
 Louvre, situated between the Louvre and Palais Royal (Plan 
 white, 7), a huge, palatial edifice, the building and furnishing of 
 which cost upwards of 500 000/. ; it contains about 700 rooms, and 
 
 1* 
 
4 
 
 2. HOTELS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 300 persons frequently dine at tlie table d’hote : Ii. from 3 fr., L. 
 and A. 2, coffee l 1 /^, dejeuner S 1 /^! D. 0 fr. — The*GRANn Hotel, 
 in the Boulevard des Capucincs, nearly opposite the Rue de la 
 Paix (Plan, red, 5), contains 70 handsomely furnished saloons and 
 upwards of 600 bedrooms, 5 dining-halls, a telegraph-office, baths, 
 billiard-rooms, a smoking-room, reading-room, etc.: R. and A. 
 5 fr. and upwards, dej. 4, I). 7, pension 20, 25, or 30 fr. per 
 day. -— Both these hotels are replete with every comfort, and 
 travellers are sure to find accommodation at either of them , at any 
 hour of the day or night; but many will prefer the smaller, 
 quieter, and less expensive houses, especially when ladies and 
 children are of the party. 
 
 Of the numerous other hotels, a few of the best-situated and 
 most respectable only need be enumerated.f 
 
 In the Rue de Rivoli: Hotel de la Place du Palais Royal (for¬ 
 merly Trois Empereurs), opposite the Hotel du Louvre, No. 170, 
 I). at 6 p. m. 4 fr. ; du Pavillon Rohan, No. 172; *du Jardin des 
 Tuilbribs, 206 ; *Ste. Marie, 83. — The five following, oppo¬ 
 site the garden of the Tuileries, are much frequented by English 
 travellers, and are expensive: *Meurice, 228; ^Windsor, 226; 
 Brighton, 218; Wagram, 208; Rivoli, 202. 
 
 In the Place Vendome (PL, red, 5): *Bristol , Nos. 3 & 5; 
 *nu Rhin, Nos. 4 & 6, D. excl. wine 3Y«jlr., R. 3 fr. and upwards; 
 Vendome, No. 1. 
 
 In the Champs Elysees , at some distance from the principal 
 attractions: Meyerbeer, Rue ^ Montaigne 2, in the Cirque des 
 Champs Elyse'es, good restaurant on the ground-floor; deHouvres, 
 Rue Montaigne 14 bis. 
 
 In the Rue St. Honore (PL, red, 5, and white, 5): St. James, 
 opposite the Tuileries , No. 211 ; de Lille et d’Albion , 223; de 
 France et de Bath, 239 ; Choiseul, 241 ; de Normandie, 256; 
 des Tuileries, 147. Less pretending: de Tunis, 179 ; Delorme, 
 177; du Passage d’Athbnes, 178 ; de Naples (maison meuble'e), 
 176. Near theRueSt. Honore: Hotel du Danube, RueRichepance 
 11 (PL, red, 5). 
 
 In the Rue Boissy d’Anglus, leading out of the Place de la Con¬ 
 corde: Hotel Vouillemont, No. 15. 
 
 In the Rue Castiglione , a handsome street leading from the 
 Place Vendome (PL, red, 5) to the Rue de Rivoli: Walter, No. 4; 
 de Londres, 5; de Liverpool, 11; Castiglione, 12. All good, 
 and much patronised by English and American travellers. 
 
 In the Rue de la Paix, the street connecting the Place Vendome 
 
 7 Observe that in the streets at right angles to the Seine the numbers 
 of the houses begin from the river; in those parallel to the river, the 
 numbers begin at the east end. In both cases the even numbers are on 
 the right, the uneven on the left. 
 
Information. 
 
 2. HOTELS. 
 
 & 
 
 with the Boulevards: *Mirabeau, No. 8 , P. 5 fr. ; Westminster, 
 11&13; HoLLANDE, 20; Il.ES Britanniques , 22; Splendide 
 Hotel, 24, facing the Place de l’Opdra. These are also good and 
 expensive. 
 
 In the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, leading out of the Rue de la 
 Paix , near the Boulevard des Capucines : de l’Empire , 57 ; de 
 l’Orient, 48; de l’Amiraute, 55 ; Chatham, 67. Good hotels, and 
 less expensive than the above. 
 
 In the Rue Neuve des Capucines, between the boulevard of that 
 name and the Rue de la Paix: *de Calais, No. 5, R. 3 — 10, L. 
 and A. l'/j, D. (if ordered) 4 fr. 
 
 In the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs , the prolongation of the 
 last: Trois Princes, No. 78, unpretending, conveniently sit¬ 
 uated. 
 
 In the Boulevard des Capucines, opposite the‘Grand Hotel’, two 
 large Maisons Meublees, Nos. 25 and29. Then, Hotel de l'Opera, 
 No. 5, opposite the new opera-house; des Capucines, No. 37, It. 
 from 4, L. and A. 13/4, D. 5 fr. 
 
 In the Place and Boulevard de la Madeleine (PI., red, 5): Hotel 
 du Parlement, No. 18, admirably situated, R. 3—5, L. and A. 
 1 3 / 4 , de'j. 4, D. 5 fr. 
 
 In the direction of the Opera, Rue Caumartin: Grande 
 Bretagne, 14; de St. Petersbourg, 35. — Rue Scribe 13: de 
 l’Athenee, R. 4 — 25, L. and A. 2^ fr. — Boulevard Haussmann 
 44: de Canterbury. 
 
 Rue d'Antin 8 , to the S. of the Boul. des Capucines, and E. 
 of the Rue de la Paix: *Deux Mondes, an old established hotel, 
 R. 4—6, L. and A. 2, D. 5 fr. 
 
 Rue de la Michodiere 9, near the last: *de Gand et de Ger- 
 manie, R. and A. 21/2, D. 3 1 /-2 fr. 
 
 The hotels at the back of the Opdra-Comique , in the Rue 
 Favart, Place Boieldieu, etc. are conveniently situated and more 
 reasonable than those in the boulevards. 
 
 Rue Marivaux des Italiens: de Richelieu, No. 9, It. 3 fr. ; 
 Favart, No. 5. — Rue de Gramrnont: de Perigord, No. 2, R. 4, 
 I). 4 fr.; de Manchester, No. 1. 
 
 Boulevard des Italiens (PL, red, 7) 33, and Rue du Helder 6 : 
 *H6tel de Bade, R. 4—6, L. and A. 2, D. 6 fr. 
 
 Rue du Helder -. du Helder, No. 9, R. from 4, L. and A. 
 t 3 /4 fr. ; *Richemond, No. 11 ; du Tibke, No. 8 , moderate. 
 
 RueTailbout, adjoining the last, Nos. 4 and 6: *d’Espagne et 
 de Hongrie. 
 
 In the Rue Laffitte (PL, red, 7), leading to the Boulevard des 
 Italiens: *Hotkl Byron, No. 20, R. from 3, L. and A. l'/j, D. 
 5 fr. ; *Laffitte, No. 40, R. from 4, I). 4 fr. ; *du Brasil, No. 
 16, R. from 2, L. and A. 1 fr. ; de Dunkerque et Folkestone, 
 No. 32; de France, No. 33; Preyfuss, 26; Mecklembourg, 38. 
 
6 
 
 '2. HOTELS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 In the Rue le Peletier, parallel to the Rue Laffitte: de l’Eu- 
 rope, 5; Victoria, 7, R. from 3, L. and A. 1, dej. 3 [ /2> 0. 4 fr.; 
 de Nelson, 13; le Peletier, 1. 
 
 Rue Drouot, 1, near the Boulevard des Italiens: *dk Russie, 
 R. and L. 4—5, A. 1, D. 5 fr. 
 
 In the Rue Lafayette (PL, red, 7): d’Angleterre et de.s 
 Antilles, 60; d’Espagne kt d'Ambrique, 56; uu Square Mon- 
 tholon. 13; Suisse, 5. — Rue Lamartine, No. 5, a street leading 
 out of the Square Montholon, is a ‘maison meublee’. 
 
 Rue de CliCiteaudun , 31, a street farther N. : de Chateaudun, 
 at the corner of the Rue St. Georges. 
 
 In the Rue Richelieu (PI. red 7, white 7), to the S. of the Boul. 
 des Italiens and the Boul. Montmartre: de Castille, 101, with 
 view of the boulevards ; d’Orleans, 17 ; de Malte, 63, IL 3—5, 
 L. and A. 1, I>. 3*/ 2 fr. ; de Valois, 69; *de Strasbourg, 50, R. 
 from 21/2, L. and A. 1 fr. ; des Hautes Alpes, 12, not far from 
 the Theatre Franeais. 
 
 Place Louvois (adjoining the Rue Richelieu), Rue Lulli 3, near 
 the Bibliotheque Nationale : Hotel Louvois, quiet, R. from 4, 
 A. 3/ 4 , D. 4 fr. 
 
 Rue Vivienne, 3 (PL, red, 7), parallel to the Rue Richelieu: 
 *des Etrangers, R. from 3, L. and A. l 3 / 4 fr. 
 
 Place de la Bourse, 36 : Hotel de Nice, moderate. 
 
 Rue Notre-Dame des ] r ictoires, adjoining the last named Place: 
 de la Bourse et des Ambassadeurs. 
 
 In the Rue Croix des Petits Champs, to the S. of the last (Pi. 
 white, 7): de la Marine Feancaise, 48; *du Levant, 27, IL 
 from 3 fr., L. 60 c. ; de l’Univers et de Portugal, 10 ; du Globe, 
 4; du Rhin, 19. 
 
 Between this last street and the Rue St. Ilonore, the Halles 
 Centrales, the Rue, and the Boulevard Montmartre, there are nume¬ 
 rous small hotels of the second and third class, conveniently sit¬ 
 uated near the principal sights, and inexpensive. Rue Rousseau: du 
 Rhone, 5; de la Martinique, 15; de Rouen, 21 ; des Empereurs, 
 20; de France et de Turquie, 34. — Rue duBouloi, 11: des Em¬ 
 pires, R. from 21 / 0 , L. and A. 2t/ 4 , I). 3(/ 2 fr. —■ Rue Coquillere, 
 21 : *Hotel Coquillere. — Rue Coq Heron, 3 , at the back of the 
 post-office: nu Coq Heron, R. from 2, dej. 2 Y 2 , 1). 3 fr. —• Rue 
 Feydeau, on the other side of the Bourse, not far from the Boule¬ 
 vard : des Etrangers Feydeau, 3; *des Gaules et d’Oiuent, 
 17. — Rue d’Aryout, 47 : de Nantes, Ii. 3, 1). 3 fr. — Rue du 
 Mail: *de Bruxelles, IL frbm2 1 /2, L. and A. iy 4 , dej. 21/ 2 , D. 
 3 fr. 
 
 Rue Montmartre, 132, near the Bourse: *Hotel de France et 
 de Champagne. 
 
 Boulevard Montmartre (Pl., red, 7): Lore, 3, with fine view, R. 
 
Information. 
 
 2. HOTELS. 
 
 7 
 
 from 3, L. and A. l 3 / 4 , D. 5 fr. ; de la Terbasse Jouffroy, above 
 the Passage Jouffroy, similar charges. 
 
 Boulevard Poissonni'ere : *Beau-Sejour, 30, with beautiful 
 view, II. 3 — ‘20, L. and A. l 3 / 4 fr.; St. Fhar, 32; Bougemont, at 
 the corner of the street of that name. 
 
 In the Cite Beryere, to the N. of the last named boulevard : 
 de la Haute Vienne , 8; nu France, 2 bis. — Rue Beryere: 
 ’“Bergerb, 30, 32, 34, Ii. from 3, L. and A. D. 4 fr.; du 
 Temps, 27; be Madrid et du Gaulois, 37. 
 
 In the Rue de Trevise(Pl. , red, 7), leading out of the last: *de Co¬ 
 logne, 10 and 12, R. 2 — li, D. 4 fr. ; *de la IIavane, 44, 11.2—5 fr. 
 
 In the Rue du Conservatoire, parallel to the last: de 15a- 
 viere, 17, II. from 3, U. 4>/j fr. ; *de Lyon et de Berlin, 7. 
 
 To the N. of the Boul. Bonne Nouvelle ( PL red, 7), Rue Maza- 
 yran , 12 : de Nice et de Savoie. — Farther N., Rue de I ’ Echi - 
 quier , 30: du Pavillon, at the corner of the Rue d’Hauteville, Ii. 
 2 — 6, L. and A. 1 */ 4 , good D. 4 fr. — Rue d ’ Enyhien , 2, aitd Rue 
 du Fauboury St. Denis , 47 : du Lion d’Argent. — Passaye Violet , 
 between the Rues du Faubourg Poissonniere and d’Hauteville : 
 ’“Violet, R. 2—0, L. and A. l 1 /^, D. 4 fr. — Rue des Petites Ecuries , 
 57, parallel to the Passage Violet: de France et d’Allemagne. 
 
 Rue St. Denis, 247, to the S. of the Boul. Bonne Nouvelle: 
 ’“Hotel de Rouen, a good commercial house. 
 
 The hotels in this part of the town, in the Rue St. Denis, Boul. 
 dc Sebastopol, Boul. de Strasbourg, etc., are somewhat distant 
 from the principal sights, but well situated for business purposes. 
 Rue du Croissant, 10 : ’“Hotel de Mars, near the Rue Montmartre, 
 an old established house. — Rue du Ca’ire, 4: de France, near ti c 
 Square des Arts et Metiers, commercial, I!, from 2 1 fi fr., good res¬ 
 taurant. — Rue Salomon de Caus, (5: Hotel du Square des Arts 
 et Metiers and Vauuan, opposite the Theatre do la Gaite. — Boule¬ 
 vard de Sebastopol, 112 : di; France et d’Algerie. — Boulevard de 
 Strusboury, 10: de Sebastopol. — Others in this neighbourhood, 
 see p. 2. — Boulevard Voltaire, 50: Hotel International, at the 
 corner of the Boul. du Temple (PL, white, 9), not badly situated. 
 
 Private Apartments, quiet, and suitable for a prolonged stay : 
 Briquet, Avenue des Champs Elysees (37 and09; Vanstienne, Ruedes 
 Petits-IIotels 12, not far from the Strasbourg Station: Hotel des 
 Provinces , Rue Geolfroy-Marie 2. Faubourg Montmartre. 
 
 Left Bank of the Seine. The hotels on the S. side of the 
 river, being at a considerable distance from the Palais Royal and the 
 Boulevards, are not so conveniently situated for sight-seeing as 
 those on the N. side, but are in some respects preferable if a pro¬ 
 longed stay is contemplated. 
 
 Quai Voltaire, 19 (PL, white, 5), opposite the Tuileries: Hotel 
 Voltaire, not far from the Palais Royal, R. from 3, L. and A. 
 
 1 fr. — Farther from the Seine, Rue de Lille, 26: des Ambassa- 
 
8 
 
 2. HOTELS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 df.urs. — Rue de l J University: des Ministres , 32; de l’Uni- 
 versitb, 22. — Rue des Saints Peres , 55 : des Saints Peres, R. 
 2 1 /.)—3, L. and A. 1, dej. 2i/ 2l D. 3 fr. — Rue Bonaparte , 3 (PL, 
 white, 6): de Londres, near the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, patronised 
 by scientific men making a prolonged stay. — Rue de Tournon, 7, 
 the street ascending towards the Palais du Luxembourg: du Senat. 
 
 In the Boulevard St. Michel: d’Harcourt, No. 3, R. from 
 4 fr.; de Ci.uny , No. 18, R. from 3, L. and A. 1, de.j. 2, D. 
 2 1 / 2 r. ; Prin cipautes-Unies, 6 ; de Suez, 31. 
 
 Hotels Garnis , inexpensive and tolerably comfortable: de 
 France, Rue de Beaune, 5; de Lorraine, Rue de Beaune, 7 ( PL, 
 white, 5); de Bearn, Rue de Lille, 38. 
 
 Maisons Meuhlees, Boulevard St. Michel, Nos. 14, 18, 21, 41, 
 43, and Rue Bonaparte 27, where furnished apartments may be 
 procured for 25—60 fr. per month. 
 
 Hotels Garnis in the Quartier Latin , suitable for the traveller 
 of moderate requirements: *H6tel Corneille, Rue Corneille 5, 
 R. 2 —31/2 O'- per day, 30 — 60 fr. per month. — Hotel des 
 Etrangbrs, Rue Racine 2, R. 2—4 fr. per day, 30—60 fr. per 
 month; opposite to it, St. Valery, similar charges ; both of these 
 houses are partly in the Boulevard St. Michel, and pleasantly situ¬ 
 ated. —• St. Pierre, Rue de l'£cole de Medeeine, No. 4, R. 25 
 —50 fr.per month, table d J hote at 5*/2 and 6 1 /o P- m., B. and D. 
 excl. wine 65—70 fr. per month. — Single rooms at moderate rents 
 are nowhere procured so easily as in the Quartier Latin, where 
 lodgings are let in almost every house. The quietest parts of 
 the Quartier are near the Luxembourg, opposite the garden, and in 
 the Rue Vangirard. 
 
 Between Notre Dame and the Jardin des Plantes, Quad de la 
 Tournelle, 15 (Pl., white, 10) : Hotel de la Tour d'Argent, small, 
 but clean and comfortable (R. 2 fr.). Opposite this hotel is the 
 Ecole de Natation de Pile St. Louis, where the water of the Seine 
 is much purer than in the baths farther down the river. 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 Paris is indisputably the cradle of high culinary art. As 
 the ordinary tables d’hote convey but a feeble idea of the perfec¬ 
 tion to which this art is carried, the ‘chefs d’oeuvre’ must be sought 
 for in the first-class restaurants, where, however, the connoisseur 
 must be prepared to pay 10—20 fr. for his dinner, exclusive of wine. 
 
 A few of the best restaurants, especially those in the most 
 frequented situations (Palais Royal, Boulevards, etc.) are here 
 enumerated. The charges are stated approximately, but they have 
 still an upward tendency owing to the enormous rents paid for 
 some of these establishments, while the prices of many of the neces¬ 
 saries of life have risen in consequence of the increased taxation 
 since the war of 1870—71. 
 
Information. 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 9 
 
 At the large restaurants the portions are generally so ample, 
 that one portion suffices for two persons, or two portions for 
 three. The visitor should therefore avoid dining alone. It is 
 even allowable to order one portion for three persons. At the 
 best restaurants ladies may with perfect propriety be of the party. 
 
 At the less fashionably situated restaurants (p. 14) the viands 
 are often as good as at those in the Palais Royal and the boule¬ 
 vards, but less expensive. 
 
 The Bill of Fare often consists of a book of many pages, 
 bound in morocco or velvet. At the large restaurants whatever 
 dish is selected, it is sure to be found unexceptionable of its kind, 
 but at the smaller restaurants it is not prudent to order any dish 
 not mentioned in the ‘carte da jour'. The following list 
 comprises the names of the commonest dishes. The triumphs 
 of Parisian culinary skill consist in the different modes of dress¬ 
 ing fish and filet de bceuf, and in the preparation of frican- 
 deaus, mayonnaises, and sauces, an enumeration of which would 
 perplex rather than assist the traveller. 
 
 Huitres, oysters, l l fe —2 1 / 2 fr. per doz. 
 
 Potage a La Julienne , soup containing finely cut vegetables. 
 
 Potage a la puree aux croutons , a kind of pea-soup with dice of 
 toasted bread. 
 
 Cornichons, pickled cucumbers. 
 
 Oseille, sorrel, very popular in Paris. 
 
 Pommes, potatoes (it is not customary to add de terre ). 
 
 Pommes sautees , potatoes stewed in butter. 
 
 Pommes it la maltre d’hotel, potatoes with parsley and butter. 
 
 Puree de pommes, mashed potatoes. 
 
 Petits pois, green peas (au sucre or au beurre). 
 
 Haricots verts, green beans. 
 
 Haricots blancs, white beans, a standard dish among the French 
 middle classes. 
 
 Flageolets , a superior kind of white beans. 
 
 Canard aux navets, roasted duck with turnips, a popular dish. 
 
 Pieds de cochon it la Sainte Mcnehould, pig's pettitoes seasoned, 
 a favourite dish, often exposed to view in shop-windows. 
 
 Beefsteak Lien cuit, beefsteak well-done, saignant underdone. 
 
 Filet de Boeuf, a favourite French dish. 
 
 Chateaubriand , a kind of beefsteak, but thicker. 
 
 Fricandenu, larded veal-cutlet. 
 
 Gigot, leg of mutton. 
 
 Foie de veau , calves’ liver. 
 
 Rognons, kidneys. 
 
 Poulet , chicken. Un quart de poulet, enough for one person. 
 
 Filets de chevreuil, roasted venison. 
 
 Perdrix , partridge; aux choux, with cabbage and sausages. 
 
 Perdreaux. young partridges. 
 
10 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Sole au gratin, fried sole. 
 
 Turbot , turbot. Barbu, a kind of plaice. 
 
 Raie, roacb. Maquereau, mackerel. Monies, mussels. 
 
 Omelettes of different kinds, aux confitures, aux fines herbes, au 
 fromage, au rhum, aux rognons , etc. 
 
 Beiynet de pomrnes, apple-fritters. 
 
 Meringues, cream-tarts. 
 
 Caraffe [rappee, caraffe of iced water. 
 
 Fin frappe , wine in ice. 
 
 Promage Suisse is a kind of cream-clieese; Proinage de Brie 
 and Gruyere are also popular; Camembert and Roquefort are 
 most esteemed in winter. 
 
 If the diner partakes of the ‘hors d’ceuvre’ presented to him 
 between the courses, consisting of radishes, butter, prawns 
 (crevettes), etc., his bill will swell into proportions for which he 
 is probably not prepared. 
 
 Wine. The ordinary red table-wine is usually drunk mixed 
 with water, or aerated water, of which a ‘siphon’, or a ‘demi- 
 siphon’ may be ordered, and this precaution is particularly recom¬ 
 mended in the inferior restaurants. A whole bottle is often 
 placed on the table for each person, unless half a bottle only 
 is expressly ordered. 
 
 The finer wines principally in vogue are: ■— Red Bordeaux : 
 St. Emilion and St. Julien f3J—4 fr.), Chateau Larose, Ch. La- 
 tour, and Ch. Lafitte (6—8 fr.). White Bordeaux: Haute Sauterne 
 (3—I fr.). -—- Red Burgundy: Beaune (2V2-—-4 fr.), Pom'arel, 
 Volnay, Nuits (4-—5 fr.), Romanee, and Chambertin (5—8 fr.). 
 White Burgundy : Montracliet (4 fr.) and Hermitage (6 fr.). 
 
 Hours. The Parisian’s first breakfast generally consists of a 
 cup of coffee and a roll at an early hour. The second breakfast, 
 or Dejeuner a la Fourchette is a substantial meal, resembling 
 dinner, and is served at the restaurants between 10.30 and 1.30 
 o’clock. The Parisian dinner-hour is between 5 and 8 o’clock. The 
 principal restaurants are generally crowded between 6 and 7; 
 strangers will therefore find it pleasanter to dine between 5 and 6. 
 
 ‘‘Garmon, Vaddition, s'it vous plait!' ‘Waiter, the bill!’ The 
 waiter then brings the account from the ‘dame de comptoir, and 
 on receiving payment expects a fee of 5 or 6 sous (4—5 in the 
 inferior restaurants). The attention shown to regular frequenters 
 of a restaurant mainly depends on the fees which the waiters 
 receive from them. — The principal restaurants also have their 
 private dining-rooms, or Cabinets Particuliers, the charges for 
 which are generally high. — Travellers may generally dine at one 
 of the hotel Tables d’Hbte at 5 or 6 p. m. without being resident 
 in the house, but in some cases previous notice is required. 
 
 The 1 Diners d Prix-fixe' resemble the tables d’hote in being a 
 complete repast at a fixed charge, which varies from 1 to 5 fr. 
 
Information. 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 1 1 
 
 in accordance with the number and quality of the dishes; but the 
 diner is at liberty to come at any hour between 5 and 8 , and is 
 enabled to dine as expeditiously or as leisurely as he pleases. 
 Payment in some instances is made at the door on entering. 
 Where a whole bottle of table-wine is included in the charge for 
 dinner, half a bottle of a better quality may always be obtained 
 in its stead. Meats and vegetables are served separately, but may 
 be ordered together if desired. The cuisine is sometimes little 
 inferior to that of the best restaurants. These establishments 
 are recommended to travellers who are not an fait at order¬ 
 ing a French dinner. 
 
 The traveller should bear in mind that, at the cheaper res¬ 
 taurants where he partakes of four or live different dishes and 
 half-a-bottle of wine for 2 or 2*/-2 fr., the viands cannot always 
 be of the best quality. The chief endeavour of such establish¬ 
 ments is to provide a varied and showy, rather than a wholesome 
 repast, and they should therefore be patronised but sparingly. 
 The quality of the food at the Maisons I)uval (p. 10) or ‘Etablis- 
 sements de Bouillon’ is generally unexceptionable, and these 
 houses are therefore preferable in many respects to their more 
 attractive rivals. The connoisseur in the culinary art will of course 
 avoid the ‘diner a prix fixe’, and betake himself with one or two 
 discriminating friends to a restaurant of the best class, while the 
 solitary traveller will exercise a wise discretion in dining at good 
 restaurants where a simple repast of 2 — 3 courses may bo obtained 
 for a reasonable sum. 
 
 Some of the principal restaurants in the quarters of Paris 
 chiefly frequented by strangers are enumerated here; *but there 
 are many others of every possible description in every part of 
 the city. Wherever the traveller may chance to take up his abode, 
 he may depend on obtaining a tolerable breakfast and dinner at 
 some restaurant in the vicinity, although the house may not be 
 mentioned in the Handbook. 
 
 Diners a Prix-fixe in the Palais Royal and Vicinity. 
 
 Where two prices are stated , the second includes a belter quality of wine. 
 
 Galerie Montpensier (W. side), pleasantest on summer after¬ 
 noons because in the shade, beginning from the end next the 
 Louvre: — No. 33, Laurent Cuteluin, dej. P/ 4 , D. 2 3 /4 fr.; 30, 
 *Au Palais Royal, dej. l 3 / 4 , D. 3 fr. ; 41, Trappe, dej. l 3 / 4 , D. 2'/4 
 or 2 3 / 4 fr.; 05, Aux Cinq Arcades (Tavernier Jeune), same charges. 
 
 Galerie de Beaujolais (N. side), 88 : *Tissot Aine , dej. l 3 / 4 , D. 
 21/4 fr. 
 
 Galerie de Valois (E. side), returning towards the Louvre: 
 No. 110, Demory , dej. l 3 / 4 , D. 2 J / 4 or 2 3 / 4 fr.; 137, Richard , 
 same charges; 152 and 145, Tavernier Aine, same charges; 100, 
 
12 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Restaurant Henri IV., ddj. 1%, I). 1 fr. 60 c. or 2 fr. ; 167, 
 * Richefeu, Aux Mille Colonnes , dej. l'/ 2 , D. 2 or 2*/ 2 fr.; 173, 
 Restaurant Valois (Catelain Aine), ddj. l 3 / 4 , D. 2*/ 4 fr. 
 
 These restaurants generally have additional entrances in the 
 Rues Montpensier, Beaujolais, and de Valois, by which the Palais 
 Royal is bounded. 
 
 Rue de Rivoli, 164, at the corner of the Place de Rivoli, or 
 des Pyramides : Restaurant du Progres, ddj. 1 l /o, D. 2 fr., good for 
 the price. 
 
 Passage Vivienne, 18, at the back of the Palais Royal, between 
 the Rues Vivienne and de la Banque: Restaurant Felleon, dej. 
 1 fr. 30, D. 1 fr. 30 or 1 fr. 60 o., good at so low a price. 
 
 Rue deValois, 6 : Maison Baucour{Je\me France), dej. 1 fr. 10, 
 D. 1 fr. 30 or 1 fr. 70 c. 
 
 Tables d'Hote , unpretending , 5—7 p. m. : — Escoffier, Rue 
 Vivienne, 7, near the Bibliotheque, ddj. 1 t/a, D. 2 fr. ; *Mercier, 
 Rue du Mail, 6, near the Place des Victoires, same charges; Veuve 
 Derame , Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 16; Mathon , Rue 
 Coquillere, 20. 
 
 Diners a Prix-fixe in the Boulevards and Vicinity. 
 
 Boulevard Montmartre, 12, entrance by Passage Jouffroy, 11 
 (PL, red, 7): * Diner de Paris, an old established house, ddj. 3, D. 
 5 fr.—Passage Jouffroy, 16: * Diner du Rocher (Bessay), hardly 
 inferior to the last, de'j. 2, D. 3 fr. ; open till 10 p. m. 
 
 Passage des Panoramas, 24 , of which the Passage Jouffroy is a 
 continuation. S. side of the boulevard: Diner du Commerce, de'j. 
 2, D. 3 fr. 
 
 At these three restaurants payment is made on entering. 
 
 Galerie Montmartre, 6, also in the Passage des Panoramas: 
 Table d’Hote Bouillod , dej. 11—1 o’clock, l 3 / 4 fr. , D. at 6. 15 
 o’clock, 3 fr. 
 
 Boulevard des Italiens, 14, and Rue le Peletier, 2 : Diner Euro- 
 peen (handsome rooms), de'j. 2y 2 , D. 41 / 2 fr. —A little nearer the 
 Opera, Rue du Helder, 16: Taverne Anglaise, ddj. l 3 / 4 , D. 2(/ 2 fr. 
 — In the direction of the Boulevard Montmartre, Passage de l’Opdra 
 (Aneien), 21, Galerie de lTIorloge: * Restaurant Gamy, de'j. 1 fr. 
 60 c., D. 2*/ 4 or 2 3 / 4 fr. (rooms unpretending). 
 
 Rue Drouot, between the two boulevards , 21: Maison Vervin, 
 d<?j. 1 fr. 25, D. 1 fr. 40 c. 
 
 Near the Bourse. At the S. E. corner of the Place de la Bourse, 
 Rue du Quatre Septembre (de l’Opdra), 1: a new Cafe Restaurant, 
 de'j. 2 1 / 4 , D. 2 3 / 4 fr. — Rue de la Bourse, 3, nearer the boulevard : 
 :,: Au Rosbif, unpretending, but frequented by a very respectable 
 class; breakfast of coffee or tea, with eggs or cold meat, ll/ 4 fr., 
 de'j. 2i/ 4 , D. 2>/ 4 fr. 
 
 Rue Montmartre, 158: Restaurant Bessay, de'j. l 1 /^ D. 2 fr. 
 
Information. 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 13 
 
 Rue d\i Faubourg Montmartre: No. 17, Table d'Hote du 
 Commerce, de'j. 1 fr. 40, D. 2 fr. ; 34, Richer, de'j. 11/ 2 , D. 2 fr. 
 
 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, 32: Buffon , d£j. 2, D. 2>/‘2 fr. 
 
 Diners a Frix-flxe in Other Quarters. 
 
 Boulevard St. Martin, 37: Restaurant des Theatres, dej. 1 fr. 
 40, D. 1 3 / 4 or 21/4 fr. 
 
 Near the Madeleine. Rue Royale, 14: Cotte, dej. 3, D. 4 fr. 
 — Boulevard Hanssmann, 8: Restaurant du Nouvel Opera, de'j.2*/2! 
 1). 3 fr. 
 
 Passage ChoiseuI, near the Theatre Italien (PI., red, 7): Restau¬ 
 rant Choiseul, dej. 1 ! /.>, D. l 3 / 4 fr. 
 
 Near the Tour St. Jacques. Boulevard de Sebastapol, 5, 
 and Rue St. Denis, (3: *Restaurant du Commerce, dej. iy 2 > D. 2 
 fr.; adjoining it, on the first floor, Chauveau, dej. H/ 2 , D. l 3 / 4 fr. 
 
 Left Bunk. Place de l’Oddon, 2, opposite the theatre: Dufrane, 
 dej. ll/g, D. 13/ 4 or 2 fr. 10 c. — Boulevard St. Michel, 10: Res¬ 
 taurant St. Michel, ddj. 1, D. 1 fr. 20 or 1 fr. GO c. 
 
 Restaurants a, la Carte in the Palais Royal and Vicinity. 
 
 Galerie Montpensier (W.),12 : Corazza. 
 
 (ialerie Beaujolais (N.), 84 : *Yefour, one of the best restaurants 
 in Paris, not to be confounded with another of that name in the Ga¬ 
 lerie Valois. — The celebrated ‘Trois Freres Proven<;aux’, formerly 
 in this gallery, no longer exists. 
 
 Galerie de Valois: No. 104, Janodet ( Restaur, du Grand Vatel); 
 108, Duquesne. 
 
 Before entering the Galerie Montpensier from the end next the 
 Louvre, the traveller will observe the *Maison Chevet, Galerie de 
 Chartres 12 and 15 , an unrivalled emporium of delciacies, but not 
 a restaurant. Those who wish to give a really good dinner get their 
 materials from Chevet. Laffitte, the celebrated banker, and minister 
 of Louis Philippe, is said to have sent to Chevet for fish for a dinner 
 to be given at Dieppe. 
 
 Rue de Valois, 8, at the end of the Galerie d’Orleans (S. end of 
 Palais Royal): *Au Boeuf d la Mode, ample portions, good wine. 
 
 Restaurants a la Carte in the Boulevards. 
 
 Most of the restaurants, as well as the cafes, in the boulevards 
 are good. The charge for each dish averages from l l f> to 2 1 fT., 
 for ‘vin ordinaire' l'/ 2 — 2 fr. per bottle. A few of the best, where 
 the food and the society are generally unexceptionable, are, 
 enumerated. 
 
 The even numbers in the boulevards are on the N., the uneven 
 on the S. side. 
 
 Place de la Madeleine, 2: Durand-Lequen, quiet. 
 
 Boulevard des Capucines : No. 39 , Tavernier (Restaurant 
 
14 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 llill); 12, Restaurant du Grand Hotel; 10, Blee (also Place de 
 l’Ope'ra, 6). 
 
 Boulevard des Italiens : No. 33, Bignon Jeune , formerly Cafe 
 Foy, at the corner of the Chaussde d’Antin; 20, * Maison Doree, 
 fashionable; 16, Cafe Riche (Bignon Aind), with showy cafd; 13, 
 Cafe Anglais , quieter; 10, Grossetete ; 29, *Cafe du Helder (E. 
 Catelain), dejeuner on the ground-floor, dinner upstairs, expensive. 
 — In the vicinity, Passage des Princes, leading to the Rue Riche¬ 
 lieu , Nos. 24—30: *Noel-Peters , quiet. 
 
 Boulevard Montmartre, 8: Jardin Geoffroy , recently restored, 
 well spoken of. -— Passage Jouffroy, S. side of the boulevard : Ter- 
 rasse Jouffroy , handsome rooms. 
 
 Boulevard Poissonniere: Nr. 32, *Vachette-Jirebant , one of the 
 best in Paris; 26, Bejot; 9, Restaurant de France, reasonable; 3, 
 *Poissonni'ere, or Notta. — At the corner of this boulevard and the 
 Rue Rougemont : Restaurant Rougemont , moderate. 
 
 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle: No. 36. Marguery; 32, Buff on ; 
 two of the few restaurants in Paris where visitors can dine in the 
 open air in summer. 
 
 Boulevard St. Denis, 14: Challet Maire , also facing the Boule¬ 
 vard de Strasbourg, 1. 
 
 Boulevard du Temple, 29 : Bonvalet (Tavernier Jeune), not 
 expensive, with a fine terrace and a cafd termed the Jardin Turc. 
 
 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 3, near the Bastille : Quatre Sergents 
 de la Rochelle. 
 
 Other Restaurants a la Carte on the Right Bank. 
 
 To the S. of the Boulevard des Capucines, in the Rue Neuve 
 St. Augustin (PI., red, 5), *Vian. — In the Place Gaillon, which 
 this street crosses, on the E. side, * Gaillon , quiet. 
 
 To the N. of the Boulevard des Italiens, Rue du Helder, 8: 
 Hotel du Tihre. • — To the S. of the boulevard, in the Rue Mari¬ 
 vaux: Restaurant de V Opera-Comique; Rue Favart, 8: * Morel , un¬ 
 pretending; both these houses are opposite the theatre. 
 
 Rue Richelieu, 100: Maison Lemardelay. 
 
 Rue Vivienne, 36: Julliard. —Place de la Bourse, 13: *Cham- 
 peaux , with garden. 
 
 Rue Montorgueuil, leading from the Halles Centrales (PI. 
 white, 7) towards the Boul. Poissonniere, No. 70: * Philippe , a well 
 known old establishment. 
 
 To the N. of the Boulevard St. Martin, Rue de Bondy, 50: Le- 
 comte, the most fashionable in this neighbourhood. 
 
 Rue Geoffroy 1’Angevin, 1: Caron , near the angle formed by the 
 Rue du Temple and Rue de Rambuteau. 
 
 Boulevard de Se'bastopol: No. 9, Prevost, at the corner of the 
 Rue de Rivoli; 49, L' Union du Commerce. 
 
Information. 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 15 
 
 Rue de Rivoli, 78 : Reinhardt. — Rue St. Honore, 261 : Voisin, 
 noted for truffles. 
 
 Champs Elysees. To the 1. on entering, before reaching the 
 Palais de l’lndustrie: Ledoyen, with fine terrace. Same side, beyond 
 the Palais, Avenue d’Antin, 23: * Oaudin, quiet; Avenue d’Antin, 
 17 : Moulin Rouge, patronised by givers of select private entertain¬ 
 ments, near the Concert des Champs Elysdes. — On the r. side, 
 at the Rond Point, Avenue Matignon, 1 : * Frey et Rummel. 
 
 Avenue de l'lmperatrice, or Uhrich. 10: Ory, moderate; Mou¬ 
 lin Vert, near the station of the Chemin de Per de Ceinture. 
 
 Bois de Boulogne. At the entrance, near the Porte Maillot: 
 Gillet. Near the Jardin d’Aeclimatation: Pavilion d’Armenonville, 
 beautifully situated. The Restaurant de la Cascade, near the Cas¬ 
 cade and the race-course, and Madrid, at the gate of that name, 
 are also well situated. 
 
 Bois deVincennes. On the small island in the Lac des Minimes. 
 Restaurant de la Porte Jaune. 
 
 Restaurants a la Carte on the Left Bank. 
 
 Quai d’Orsay, 1, near the Pont Royal , and opposite the Tui- 
 leries : Cafe d’Orsay, or Constant Laurain, formerly the rendezvous 
 of the deputies. 
 
 Rue de Lille, 33 : * Blot Aine. 
 
 Quai des Grands Augustins, 51, between the Pont Neuf and 
 Pont St. Michel : *Laperouse. 
 
 Rue Mazet, 3, first street diverging from the Rue Dauphine to 
 the r. when approached from the Pont Neuf (PL, white, 8): *Magny, 
 a favourite haunt of the gourmets of the left bank. 
 
 Rue de l’Ancienne Com^die , 18: Thomas, between the Rue 
 Dauphine and Carrefour de l’Oddon. 
 
 Restaurants of every kind abound in the Quartier Latin. One 
 of the best is Foyot-Lesserteur , Rue de Tournon, 33, opposite the 
 entrance to the LuxembonrgfPL, white, 8), and Rue de Vaugirard, 
 22 bis. 
 
 Quai de la Tournelle , opposite the bridge of that name , and 
 near the Jardin des Plantes : Tour d'Argent. — The Chalet du 
 Jardin des Plantes is at the entrance to the gardens, opposite the 
 Pont d’Austerlitz. 
 
 Restaurants with Special Cuisine. 
 
 English Taverns: — Imcas , Place de la Madeleine, 9; Hill. 
 Houlevard des Capucines, 39 ; Weber, Rue Royale, 21; Taverne 
 de Londres, Place Bo'ieldieu, opposite the Opera Comique ; Britan- 
 nique, Rue Richelieu, 104, with garden. 
 
 American Restaurants: — Boulevard des Capucines, 4; New 
 York, Boulevard St. Denis, 10, with garden. 
 
 Russian Cookery • Rue de Marivaux, 9, near the Ope'ra Comique. 
 
 Italian Cookery : Passage des Panoramas, Galerie Montmartre. 12. 
 
16 
 
 3. RESTAURANTS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Etablissements de Bouillon. 
 
 These are restaurants of a peculiar kind, founded originally 
 by a butcher named Duval. As in the case of the ‘diners k prix- 
 fixe’, the number of dishes to choose from is very limited, but 
 each dish, bottle of wine, and even bread is reckoned separately. 
 The meat is generally good, but the portions are small. The 
 rooms are always clean, and sometimes very handsomely fitted up. 
 The guests are waited on by women, soberly garbed, and not unlike 
 sisters of charity. These houses are very popular with the middle 
 and even upper classes, and may without hesitation be visited by 
 ladies. Each guest on entering is furnished with a card, on which 
 the account is afterwards written. 
 
 Usual charges: serviette 5, bread 10, carafon of wine 20, 
 V 2 bottle 45, ‘siphon’ of aerated water 15, soup 25, meat, fish, etc., 
 30 — 60, vegetables 25 c.; the charge for an ordinary dinner will 
 therefore amount to 2-—2i/ 2 fr. or upwards. A fee of 15 — 20 c. 
 is left on the table for attendance; the bill is then paid at the 
 bar and receipted, and is finally given up to the ‘controleur’ at the 
 door. The largest of these houses is in the Rue Montesquieu, 
 No. 6, to the E. of the Palais Royal. The following, among many 
 others, are some of the principal branch-establishments: Boulevard 
 Poissonniere 11, Boul. Montmartre 21, Rue de Turhigo 45 (corner of 
 Rue St. Martin), Boul. Sebastopol 141 (corner of Boul. St. Denis), 
 Rue de Ilivoli 47, Rue des Filles St. Thomas 7 (near the Bourse), 
 Rue Sartine 10, Rue Beauregard 2, Boul. St. Michel 26 (at the 
 corner of Rue de TEcole de Me'decine), Boul. de la Madeleine 27, 
 Place de la Madeleine 10, Rue Lafayette (Place Cadet) 63, Rue 
 Buci 18. Similar houses are: Boulevard St. Michel 34, Rue 
 Vivienne 2 (near the Palais Royal), Boul. de Sebastopol 56, Boul. 
 Poissonniere 24, Place du Chateau d’Eau 17, Rue Lafayette 52. 
 
 Beer. 
 
 English, Bavarian, Strasbourg, Vienna, and other beer may 
 be obtained at all the cafe's, at 30—40 c. per glass (He hoc), and 
 also at the following restaurants: •— 
 
 Debts , Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere 4; Seidel-Gurtler, Rue 
 d’Hauteville 32; Pingel , Rue d’Argout 49; Restaurant Viennois, 
 Rue Rougemont 3 ; Grand Cafe-Brasserie de la Ville, Rue de Ilivoli 
 78; Brasserie Kleber , opposite the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin ; 
 Neeser, Rue Halevy 12; Fanta , Rue Halevy 2; Rue de la Terrasse 
 4 (Vienna beer); Paris et Comp., Boul. Richard Lenoir 3; St. 
 Michel, to the 1. of the Fontaine St. Michel, near the quay; Bras¬ 
 serie de la Source, Boul. St. Michel 35; Bo'utte, Rue Moulfetard 28. 
 
 There are also a number of Brasseries Drelier , named after the 
 Vienna brewer of that name, whose beer obtained a prize at the 
 
Information. 
 
 4. CAFfiS. 
 
 17 
 
 ‘Exposition’ of 1867: Boulevard St. Michel 7, near the Jardin du 
 Luxembourg; Place du Chatelet, Hue St. Denis 1; Rue de La¬ 
 fayette 53, etc. 
 
 Fanta's beer is almost as popular as that of Dreher. That of 
 Gruber and Reeb 1 sold at their tavern, Boul. Poissonniere 13. is 
 also largely consumed. 
 
 Cremeries. 
 
 These are cafes-restaurants of an inferior kind, chiefly frequen¬ 
 ted by the lower cdasses, but many of them are patronised by per¬ 
 sons of better rank who require to economise. The name is derived 
 from the dairy produce which they generally sell. They are much 
 resorted to in the morning for ‘cafe an lait’ or chocolate, a cup of 
 which with a roll costs 25—35 c., and these refreshments are often 
 very tolerable. The meat, however, is more doubtful (beefsteak 
 50 c.). As specimens may be mentioned the Cremerie-Cafe , Rue 
 delaChausseed’Antin, 3, nearthe Boul. des Capucines and des Ita- 
 liens; Gagne-Petit, Rue du Bouloi, 26; Cremerie Rivoli, Rue de 
 Rivoli, 55; others at Rue St. Marc, 19 (near the Bourse), Faubourg 
 Montmartre, 17, and Rue Vaugirard, 5 (Maison Trin). 
 
 Marchands de Vin, who sell wine , spirits, and liqueurs, and 
 whose customers are chiefly persons of the lower orders, abound in 
 every part of the city. Their shops are the ordinary public-houses 
 of Paris. 
 
 4. cafEs and confectioners. 
 
 Caftfs form one of the specialties of Paris, and some of them 
 should be visited by the stranger who desires to see Parisian life in 
 all its phases; but let him scrupulously avoid those where the 
 chairs placed outside in summer are in unpleasant proximity 
 with the gutters. Most of the Parisian men spend their evenings 
 at the cafes, where they partake of coffee, liqueurs, and ices, meet 
 their friends, read the newspapers, or play at cards or billiards. 
 
 The cafe's are sometimes convenient for breakfasting. Coffee, 
 or tea, with bread and butter costs 1 — 1 i/j fr., and waiter’s fee 
 about 10 c. — Ices are sold at the larger cafes in summer. — The 
 demi-tasse of cafe' noir, which is usually drunk in the afternoon, 
 costs about 40 c. , a petit-verre of cognac 30 — 40 c. , and the 
 waiter expects 10 c. — Those who wish to dilute their coffee ask 
 for un mazagran, and are supplied with coffee in a large glass 
 and a bottle of water; un Capucin is a glass of cafe an lait. — 
 Beer may also be procured at most of the cafe's, ‘■un hoc, or 
 l une choppe’ costing 30 — 40 c. — The following liqueurs diluted 
 with water are largely consumed in warm weather: Absinthe, Ver¬ 
 mont, Cognac, Bitters, Curasao, Sirup de Groseille, de Fram¬ 
 boise, Orgeat (prepared from almonds), Fan de Fleur d’Orange, 
 etc. — De'jeffner may also be obtained at most of the cafe's for 
 2—3 fr. 
 
 B 45 DEKER. Paris. 4th Edition. 
 
 2 
 
18 
 
 4. CAFES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Smoking is generally prohibited at the cafds until the evening, 
 unless there he chairs outside. Ladies may with propriety he 
 taken to the best cafe's. As a rule the society at the cafe's in the 
 lloulevards Montmartre and des Italiens is far from select. 
 
 In the Palais Royal the Cafe de la Rotonde is the only one pri¬ 
 vileged to place tables and chairs In the garden (see p. 79'). 
 
 A few of the best only need he enumerated. 
 
 Cafes in anti near the Palais Royal. 
 
 Galerie Beaujolais (N. side), 89—92: Cafe de la Rotonde , one 
 of the most frequented in Paris, well supplied with French news¬ 
 papers. 
 
 Galerie d’Orleans (S. side): Nos. 34—40, Cafe d'Orleans; 
 
 1 — 7, Cafe Masse. 
 
 The celebrated ‘Cafe des Aveugles’ at the N. end of the Galerie 
 Valois, so called from the blind musicians who used to perform 
 there, is now closed. 
 
 Rue St. Honore: N. 161, *Cafe de la Regence , opposite the 
 Palais Royal, a famous rendezvous of chess-players; 159, Cafe de 
 Wnivers. Not far distant, Rue de l’Echelle 1 : Cafe de la Paix. 
 At the corner of the Rue St. Honore and the Place du Palais: 
 Cafe de Rohan. Near the Louvre, at the corner of the Rue de 
 Marengo and the Rite St. Honore: Cafe de Marengo. 
 
 Place de la Bourse, 31 : Cafe de la Bourse. 
 
 Cafes in the Boulevards. 
 
 Boulevard de la Madeleine. Cafe Durand, Place de la Made¬ 
 leine 2; Cafe de Londres, Boul. de la Madeleine 25. 
 
 Boulevard des Capueines. N. side: No. 14, Grand Cafe , ele¬ 
 gantly fitted up; 12, Cafe de la Paix , on the ground floor of the 
 Grand Hotel. —S. side: No. 43, Cafe du Congres; 1, Cafe Napo- 
 litain , ’‘ices 1 1 / 4 fr. per portion (a favourite mixture is termed 
 ‘tutti frutti’). 
 
 Boulevard des Italiens. N. side: No. 33, Cafe Bignon , a res¬ 
 taurant (p. 14); 30, Cafe des Pyrenees; 22, *Tortoni, of the 
 highest class; 16, Cafe Riche , and 14, Cafe G retry , both near the 
 Passage de l’Opera, frequented by stockbrokers; 4, Cafe Americain, 
 also a restaurant, on the ground-floor of the Vaudeville. ■— S. side: 
 No. 29, *Cufe du Helder , a resort of artists; 13, Cafe Anglais , 
 principally a restaurant, expensive; 10, Cafe du Grand Balcon, 
 frequented by the best billiard-players; 1—3, Cafe Cardinal. 
 
 Boulevard Montmartre. N. side: No. 16, Cafe Mazur in; 14, 
 Cafe duCercle; 12, Cafe Gurcn; 10, Cafe des Princes. —S.side: 
 No. 13, Veron; 5, Cafe de Suede; 1, Cafe de la Porte Montmartre, 
 
 Boulevard Poissonniere. No. 14, Pont de Per; 6, Cafe Frontin. 
 
 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle. N. side: No. 44, *Cafe Francois. 
 
Information. 
 
 4. CAFfiS. 
 
 19 
 
 — S. side: No. 39, Dejeuner de Richelieu , ‘demi-tasse’ of coffee 50, 
 excellent chocolate 75, cup of tea 00 c. — N. side: No. 30, *Cafe 
 de la Terrasse (Chauvet), with balcony, well supplied with news¬ 
 papers, recommended for dejeuner; 20, Seruzier (Blondeau); 10, 
 Cafe de Bordeaux. 
 
 Boulevard St. Denis. S. side: Cafe de Malte , opposite the Porte 
 St. Martin. 
 
 Boulevard St. Martin. N. side: Renaissance; Cafe du Thea¬ 
 tre de la Porte St. Martin, on the ground-floor of the theatre of that 
 name; *Grand Cafe Parisien , near the Chateau d’Eau, the largest 
 cafd in Paris, containing 22 hilliard-tables, worthy of a visit. 
 
 Boulevard du Temple. S. side: Jardin Turc (p. 14), with a 
 small garden. 
 
 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 10: Grand Cafe de VEpoque. 
 
 Boulevard de Strasbourg: Cafe des deux Hemispheres, opposite 
 the Gare de l'Est, and at the corner of the Boulevard Magenta. 
 
 Boulevard de Sdbastopol, descending towards the Hue de Ri- 
 voli: No. 121, Cafe du Centre, opposite the Square des Arts et 
 Me'tiers; 98, du Nouveau Theatre; 101, du Cercle, near the square; 
 83, Roy; 58, de VEpoque; 35, du Plienix. 
 
 Left Bank of the Seine. Opposite the Pont Royal, Cafe d'Orsay, 
 handsomely fitted up; Cafe Blot, Rue de Lille, 33; *Cafe Procope 
 (Guichon), Rue de l’Ancienne Comedie 13 (PL, white, 8), theoldest, 
 cafe in Paris, once frequented by Voltaire, Rousseau, and Di¬ 
 derot; *Cafe de la Rotonde , Rue de l'Ecolc de Medecine 10, well 
 supplied with newspapers; Voltaire, Place de l’Odeon; Tabouret, 
 Rue de Vaugirard 20. Numerous cafe's in the Boulevard St. 
 Michel: No. 37, Harcourt , Place de la Sorbonne; 18, Jeune France. 
 frequented by students and ‘etudiantes’. 
 
 Champs Elyskes. The cafes-chantants here afford unbounded 
 delight to the middling and lower classes of Parisians on summer 
 evenings. The performances are by no means of the first order, 
 but are always conducted with propriety. Refreshments gener¬ 
 ally dear; collections are also made for the performers. The 
 Alcazar d'Ete is one of the best of these cafe's. There are other 
 cafds-chantants in other parts of the town, such as the Eldorado, 
 the Alcazar d'Hiver, etc. (p. 50). 
 
 Ices (Glares) at most of the cafes, best at the following places: 
 Tortoni, Boulevard des Italiens (p. 18); Imoda, No. 3, and 
 Rouze , No. 23 Rue Royale St. llonore, opposite the Madeleine; 
 *Poire et Blanche, in the Faubourg St. Germain, Rue St. Domi¬ 
 nique 10; Hilaire Rouze, opposite to the latter, No. 11; *Cafe 
 Napolitain, Boulevard des Capueines 1, fruit-ices. — Sorbet is half- 
 frozen syrup or punch. 
 
 Confectioners in Paris are of two classes, Pdtissiers (pastry¬ 
 cooks) and Confiseurs. The best patissiers are: Dubois, Rue 
 Richelieu 92; Julien Freres , Rue de la Bourse 3 (sweetmeats 
 
20 
 
 5. CABS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 and bonbons); Ouerre, Rue Castiglione 2, opposite tbe garden 
 of the Tuileries; Tavart, Boulevard des Italiens 9; Chiboust, 
 Rue St. Honore'163 ; Charpentier , Rue Neuve des Petits Champs 
 42; Ravaux, Rue de Luxembourg 8; Remondet, Rue de Buci 14; 
 Robert , Boulevard Montmartre 23. — Best conflseurs: *Boissier, 
 Boulevard des Capucines 7; *Giraudin, Rue de la Paix 17; 
 Gouache, Boulevard de la Madeleine 17 ; Achard, Boul. des Ita¬ 
 liens 17 ; Terrier, Rue St. Honore' 254; Bonnet, Rue Vivienne 
 31 ; Seugnot, Rue du Bao 28. — A la Renommee de la Brioche, r. 
 side of Boul. Bonne Nouvelle, a little before reaching the Porte 
 St. Denis, and Galette du Gymnase, near the theatre of that name, 
 in the same boulevard, are two shops where a favourite kind of 
 cake is sold hot. — Excellent preserved fruits at Jourdain s , Rue 
 Neuve des Petits Champs 52, price 2—3 fr. per lb.; box of mixed 
 fruits (‘chinois’, i. e. small oranges, apricots, plums, greengages, 
 etc.) 3 fr. 
 
 ‘ Chinois’ is a word sometimes extended to ‘fruits h l’eau de 
 vie’, i. e. plums and other fruits, in brandy, sold at 15 c. each 
 and upwards. They are very popular, especially with the lower 
 classes, and are sold by the ‘liquoristes’. One of the best of these 
 shops is the Maison Moreaux , Place de l’Ecole 4, near the Pont 
 Neuf. A liqueur shop of a higher class is the Maison Guy, Rue 
 St. Honore, near the Place du Palais Royal, where the fruits in 
 brandy are also sold. 
 
 5. CABS. 
 
 By a decree of 23rd May, 1866, the Voitures de Place or ordinary 
 cabs, distinguished by large yellow numbers, and the Voitures de 
 Remise, which are somewhat superior vehicles with small red 
 numbers, were placed on the same footing when plying for hire in the 
 public streets, the only difference being that the latter are entitled 
 to increased fares when hired from a ‘remise’, or coach-house. The 
 number of these vehicles in Paris is about 6600. Those with two 
 horses (for 4—5 persons) are the only ones which have a railing 
 on the top for luggage. 
 
 JJne Course is a single drive; ii I'heure by time, in which case 
 the hirer shows his watch to the driver. The hirer should, before 
 starting, obtain the driver’s number, which consists of a small 
 book containing tariff of fares, etc. , and keep it in case any 
 dispute should take place. Complaints may be made to the nearest 
 policeman, or at one of the offices which are to be found at every 
 cab-stand. 
 
Information. 
 
 5. CABS. 
 
 21 
 
 Tariff for Voitures de Place and de Remise. 
 
 Within the City. 
 
 From 6 a. m. in summer 
 (31st May to 1st Oct.), 
 and from 7 a. m. in winter 
 (1st Oct. to 31st May), 
 till 12. 30 at night: 
 
 From 12. 30 at night 
 till 6 a. m. in summer 
 (31st May to 1st Oct.), 
 and till 7 a. m. in winter 
 (1st Oct. to 31st May): 
 
 Cab for 2—3 pers. 
 
 Cab for 4—5 pers. 
 
 Cab from a reinise 
 for 2 — 3 pers. 
 for 4 — 5 pers. 
 
 Per Drive 
 
 Per Hour 
 
 Per Drive 
 
 Per Hour 
 
 1 fr. 50 c. 
 
 1 fr. 70 c. 
 
 1 fr. 80 c. 
 
 2 fr. — c. 
 
 2 fr. — c. 
 
 2 fr. 25 c. 
 
 2 fr. 25 c. 
 
 2 fr. 50 c. 
 
 2 fr. 25 c. 
 
 2 fr. 50 c. 
 
 J 3 fr. — c. 
 
 2 fr. 50 c. 
 
 2 fr. 75 c. 
 
 j 3 fr. — c. 
 
 Beyond 
 
 the 
 
 Fortifications. 
 
 From 6 a. m. till 12 at night in summer (31st May 
 to 1st Oct.), or from 6 a. m. till 10 p. m. in winter 
 (1st Oct. to 31st May). 
 
 Same charge per drive and per hour. 
 
 When the hirer returns 
 to the town in the same 
 cab : 
 
 When the hirer does not 
 return, lie must make 
 additional payment of : 
 
 Cab for 2 — 3 pers. 
 
 Cab for 4 — 5 pers. 
 
 Cab from a remise 
 for 2—3 pers. 
 for 4—5 pers. 
 
 2 fr. 50 c. 
 
 2 fr. 75 c. 
 
 j 3 fr. — c. 
 
 J 1 fr. — c. 
 
 ] 2 fr. - c. 
 
 In hiring by time, the whole of the first hour must always be 
 paid for, after which the time may be reckoned by spaces of 5 min. 
 
 % 
 
 MINUTES: 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 35 
 
 40 
 
 45 
 
 50 55 
 
 5 
 
 o 
 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. 
 
 fr.c. fr.c. 
 
 
 , 2 fr . 
 
 „ 20 
 
 „ 35 
 
 „ 50 
 
 „ 70 85 
 
 i * 
 
 1 20 
 
 1 35 
 
 1 50 
 
 1 70 1 85 
 
 <v 
 
 2 fr. 25. 
 
 „ 20 
 
 „ 40 
 
 „ 60 
 
 „ 75 „ 95 
 
 ( 15 
 
 1 35 
 
 1 50 
 
 1 70 
 
 1 90,2 10 
 
 
 2 fr. 50. 
 
 „ 25 
 
 45 
 
 „ Go 
 
 „ 85 1 05 
 
 1 25 
 
 1 50 
 
 1 70 
 
 1 90 
 
 2 10;2 30 
 
 Ja 
 
 2 fr. 75. 
 
 „ 25 
 
 50 
 
 „ 70 
 
 95 1 15 
 
 1 40 
 
 1 60 
 
 1 85 2 10 
 
 2 30:2 55 
 
 & 
 
 3 fr. 
 
 „ 25 
 
 „ 50 
 
 „ 75 
 
 1 -J 
 
 1 25 
 
 1 50 1 75 
 
 1 " 
 
 2 25 
 
 2 50|2 75 
 
 The same charge is made for luggage in cabs of either of 
 the above classes: for 1 box 25 c., 2 boxes 50, 3 or more 75 c. 
 The driver is bound to place it on, and remove it from, the 
 vehicle. No charge for small articles taken inside. 
 
 The following places are beyond the fortifications: Bois de 
 Boulogne, Bois de Vincennes, and the parishes of Oharenton, Le 
 Pro St. Gervais, St. Maude', Montreuil. Ilagnolet, Bomainville, 
 Pantin, Aubervilliers, St. Ouen , St. Denis, Clichy, Neuilly, 
 Boulogne, Issy, Vanves, Montrouge, Arcueil , Gentilly, Ivry, 
 Vincennes. 
 
 Stands at the Madeleine, on all the principal Boulevards, in 
 
22 
 
 6. OMNIBUSES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 the Place de la Bourse, Place de la Bastille, du Palais Royal, 
 St. Sulpice, de la Concorde, Louvois, du Louvre, on the quays, 
 and at all the railway-stations. 
 
 Among the more important regulations, of which every driver 
 must possess a copy, are the following: — 
 
 If a cah is sent for and kept waiting more than i/ 4 hr. the 
 charge for I hr. must be paid; if it is sent back at once, half 
 a course, or if after t/ 4 hr. a whole course must be paid. 
 
 If the cab be hired for a course, the driver may select 
 his own route; if ic Vheure, he must obey the directions of his 
 employer. If one of the passengers alights before the termination 
 of the course, no additional charge can be made, unless luggage 
 placed outside the vehicle be also removed, in which ease one 
 hour must be paid for. 
 
 The speed of the voitures de place is required to be at least 
 8 kilometres (5 M.) per hour, that of the voitures de remise 
 10 kil. (_6i/ 4 M.) per hour, unless the passenger desires a slower 
 pace. 
 
 If the cab is engaged before 12. 30 at night the day-charges 
 only can be demanded, if before 6 (or 7) a. m. the night-charges 
 must be paid, although the drive be prolonged beyond these limits. 
 
 Drivers are not bound to convey passengers beyond the forti¬ 
 fications between midnight (or in winter 10 p. m.) and 6 a. m. 
 
 If the horses have been used beyond the fortifications for 
 2 consecutive hours, the driver may demand a rest of 20 min. 
 at the expense of the hirer. 
 
 If a carriage is engaged beyond the fortifications to return 
 to the town, the town-charges alone can be exacted; in the re¬ 
 verse case, the increased rate is paid from the moment the forti¬ 
 fications are passed. 
 
 For a drive to a theatre, concert, or ball, the fare must be paid 
 in advance. 
 
 Gratuities cannot be demanded by the drivers, but it is 
 usual to give 20—25 c. per drive, or per hour, in addition to 
 the fare. 
 
 Those who are desirous of exploring Paris expeditiously and 
 comfortably are recommended to hire a Voiture de Remise by the 
 day (25-—30 fr.) or by the week. Application should be made 
 at the offices of the Compagnie Ge'ne'rale des Voitures, Place du 
 The'atre Frangais 1 , or Rue Basse du Renipart (Boulevard des 
 Capucines), 50 bis. 
 
 G. OMNIBUSES. 
 
 All the omnibuses in Paris belong to one company. There are 
 32 different lines, distinguished by the letters of the alphabet, 
 the colour of their lanterns and of the vehicles themselves. In the 
 annexed list the starting-point and destination of each are furnished 
 with references to the coloured plan at the end of the book. 
 
Information. 
 
 G. OMNIBUSES. 
 
 23 
 
 F rora 
 
 Omnibus 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 A. 
 
 Passy et Auteuil 
 (PL, white, 1) 
 Trocade'ro (red, 2) 
 
 B. 
 
 C. 
 
 Avenue de Neuilly 
 (r. 3) 
 
 D. 
 
 Boul. des Filles-du- 
 Calv. (w., 9| 
 
 E. 
 
 Madeleine (r. 5) 
 
 F. 
 
 Place Wagram 
 (r. 6) 
 
 G. 
 
 Batignolles (r. 6) 
 
 H. 
 
 Av. de Clicliy (r. G) 
 
 I. 
 
 Place Pigalle (r. 8) 
 
 J. 
 
 La Glaciere (bl. 7) 
 
 K. 
 
 La Cliapelle (r. 10) 
 
 1 . 
 
 La Villette ( r. 10) 
 
 M. 
 
 Belleville (r. 11) 
 
 N. 
 
 Belleville (r. 11) 
 
 O. 
 
 Menilmontant 
 (r. 11) 
 
 V. 
 
 Charonne (w. 13) 
 
 a 
 
 Place du Trone 
 (w. 14) 
 
 R. 
 
 St. Philippe-du- 
 Roule (r. 3) 
 
 S. 
 
 Bercy (bl. 13) 
 
 X. 
 
 Gare d’lvrv (bl. 11) 
 
 U. 
 
 Bicetre (bl. 7 and 9 
 
 V. 
 
 Barriere du Maine 
 (bl. G) 
 
 X. 
 
 Vaugirard (bl. 4) 
 
 Y. 
 
 Grenelle (w. 2) 
 
 Z. 
 
 Grenelle (w. 2) 
 
 AB. 
 
 Passy (bl. 1) 
 
 AC. 
 
 Petite Villette 
 (r. 10) 
 
 AS. 
 
 Pont de PAlma 
 (vv. 1) 
 
 AE. 
 
 Avenue de Vincen¬ 
 nes (w. 14) 
 
 AF. 
 
 Pantheon (bl. 8) 
 
 AG. 
 
 Montrouge (bl. 3) 
 
 AH. 
 
 Montmartre (r. 8) 
 
 Palais-Royal (white, 7) 
 
 Gare de Strasbourg 
 (r. 9) 
 
 Louvre (w. 7) 
 
 Ternes (r. 2) 
 
 Bastille (w. 10) 
 
 Bastille (w. 10) 
 
 Jardin des Plantes 
 (w. 10) 
 
 Odeon (w. 8) 
 
 Halle aux vins (w. 10, 
 and blue 10) 
 Boulevard Roche- 
 chouart (r. 6) 
 
 College de France 
 (w. 8) 
 
 St. Sulpice (w. G) 
 Ternes (r. 2) 
 
 Place des Victoires 
 (w. 7) 
 
 Chaussee du Maine 
 (bl. G) 
 
 Barriere de Fontaine¬ 
 bleau (w. 9) 
 Palais-Royal (w. 7) 
 
 Barriere de Charenton 
 (bl. 14) 
 
 Louvre (w. 7) 
 
 Square Montliolon 
 (r. 8) 
 
 Pointe St. Eustache 
 (w. 7) 
 
 Chemin de fer du Nord 
 (r. 10) 
 
 Place du Havre (r. 5) 
 Porte St. Martin (r. 9) 
 Bastille (w. 10) 
 
 Place de la Bourse 
 (r. 7) 
 
 Champs-Elysees (r. 3) 
 
 Chateau-d'Eau (r. 9) 
 
 Arts-et-Metiers (r. 9) 
 
 Place de Courcelles 
 (r. 5) 
 
 Chemin de fer de l’Est 
 
 (v. 10) 
 
 Bastille (vv. 10) 
 
 yellow 
 
 red and green 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 dark-brown 
 
 red 
 
 pale-brown 
 
 green 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 green 
 
 red 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 yellow 
 
 green and red 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 yellow » 
 
 green and red 
 
 green 
 
 red 
 
 green 
 
 red and green 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 green 
 
 viol, and red 
 
 yellow 
 
 red and white 
 
 yellow 
 
 red 
 
 yellow 
 
 green and red 
 
 pale-brown 
 
 green and red 
 
 yellow 
 
 green and red 
 
 pale-brown 
 
 red and white 
 
 pale-brown 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 red and green 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 green 
 
 red 
 
 dark-brown. 
 
 red 
 
 green 
 
 orange-colour 
 
24 
 
 6. OMNIBUSES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 It is of course uo easy matter to become thoroughly acquainted 
 with the above labyrinth of routes , but the clerks at the omnibus 
 offices will give all necessary information. The service being well 
 organised, and the fares very moderate, these vehicles will some¬ 
 times be found convenient, especially by the single traveller. 
 Those who make a prolonged stay in Paris, and intend to travel 
 frequently by omnibus , should purchase at one of the offices an 
 omnibus-plan of Paris (1 l'r.), or a Clef or Itineraire des Om¬ 
 nibus (20 c.), containing information regarding all the routes and 
 the ‘correspondances’. 
 
 The first and most important thing to be observed is, that, at 
 all the principal stations , with a view to ensure fair play and pre¬ 
 vent crowding, intending passengers are furnished at the office in 
 the order of their arrival with numbered tickets (nurncros). As 
 soon as the omnibus appears, places are assigned to the ticket-hol¬ 
 ders in order; when the omnibus is ‘complet’ it drives off, and the 
 disappointed ticket-holders have to wait for the next. 
 
 The fares for all the above routes are the same, 30 c. inside, 
 and 15 c. outside (imperiale). If the omnibus does not go in the 
 direct route to the passenger’s destination, he may apply to the 
 conductor for a l correspondance' with the line which will convey 
 him thither. He will then receive a ticket, and will be set down 
 at the point where the two lines cross. Here he proceeds to the 
 omnibus-bureau, receives a number, which, without additional pay¬ 
 ment, entitles him to a seat in the first omnibus going in the 
 desired direction , and finally gives up his ticket to the conductor 
 of the latter. Outside passengers are not entitled to correspon- 
 dance, unless they pay full fare (30 c.). Some of the lines do not 
 give correspondances on Sundays and holidays. 
 
 The most important omnibus-offices are in the Place du Palais 
 Royal , and in the Rue St. Iionore, opposite the The'atre Franfais, 
 close to each other, and situated in the very heart of the city. 
 Other offices : Boulevard de la Madeleine 27, des Italiens 8, du 
 Temple, des Filles du Calvaire, de la Bastille 2, Porte St. 
 Martin, etc. ■—On the Left Rank of the Seine: Place St. Sul- 
 pice 0, 8, and 10; at the Odeon, Pont Neuf, Place du Palais do 
 Justice, etc. 
 
 Tramway (Chemin de Per Americain) , Rue du Louvre 8 (oppo¬ 
 site the colonnade), starting every hour from 9 a. m. (in summer 
 oftener). There is another station on the quay, below the bridge, 
 and near the Place de la Concorde (where there is also an omnibus 
 station), and another at each bridge farther down the river. The 
 tramway-cars run to : — 
 
 1. Pussy, Auteuil, Bois de Boulogne, Le Point du Jour, Bou¬ 
 logne, and the Pont de St. Cloud. 
 
 2. Auteuil, Billancourt, Sevres, Viro/lay, and Versailles. 
 
Information. 
 
 7. STEAMBOATS. 
 
 25 
 
 7. River Steamboats. 
 
 The Bateaux-Omnibus , or small screw-steamers which ply oil 
 the Seine, commonly known as Slouches’, are recommended to the 
 notice of the traveller in fine weather, as they afford a view of the 
 quays and banks of the river, but being small, and almost entirely 
 covered in, they are apt to be crowded and uncomfortable. 
 
 In descending to St. Cloud the left bank is picturesque, espe¬ 
 cially where the wooded slopes of Bas Meudon rise above the river. 
 
 There are three different services : (1) through the city, (2) from 
 the Pont Royal to St. Cloud and Suresnes, in summer only, and (3 ) 
 from the Pont de Bercy-Ceinture (Napoleon III) to Charenton. 
 
 I. City Service. From the Pont de Bercy-Ceinture to Auteuil; 
 Point du Jour. 
 
 Fare 15, Sundays 25 c., for the whole or part of the distance. 
 
 Stations. The boats generally touch at the following places 
 every 10 minutes from 8 a. m. till dusk: — 
 
 1. Pont de Bercy-Ceinture , or Napoleon 111. ( r. bank), near the 
 Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. 
 
 2. Quai de la Gare (1. bank), near the Orleans goods-station. 
 
 3. Pont de Bercy (r. bank), near Bercy and the Lyons goods- 
 station. 
 
 4. Pont d'Austerlitz (r. bank), near the Lyons and Orleans 
 stations and the Jardin des Plantes. 
 
 5. Pont de la Tournelle (1. bank), near the Halle aux Vins, 
 Boulevard St. Germain, and lie St. Louis. 
 
 0. Quai de laUreve (r. bank), near thellotel deVille and Notre 
 Dame. 
 
 7. Le Chatelet, or Pont au Change (r. bank), near the Place du 
 Chatelet, Boulevard de Sebastopol, and Palais de Justice. 
 
 8. Pont des Saints-Peres (1. bank), near the Institut, Louvre, 
 and Palais Royal. 
 
 9. Pont Hoyal (r. bank), starting-point of the St. Cloud and 
 Suresnes boats, near the Tuileries and Rue du Bac. 
 
 10. Pont de la Concorde (r. bank), near the Champs Elysees and 
 Corps Ldgislatif. 
 
 11. Pont des Invalides (r. bank), near the Champs Elysdes and 
 Invalides. 
 
 12. Pont de l’Alma (1. bank), near the Champ de Mars and 
 Ecole Militaire. 
 
 13. Quai de Pussy (r. bank), near the Trocade'ro and Passy. 
 
 14. Pont de Crenelle (r. bank), near Auteuil, Passy, and the 
 Bois de Boulogne. 
 
 15. Auteuil , Point du Jour (r. bank), near the Bois de Bou¬ 
 logne and Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. 
 
 II. To Sevres, St. Cloud, and Suresnes. From the Pont Royal , 
 in summer. 
 
 Fares. Between the Pont Royal or the Pont de la Concorde and 
 
26 
 
 8. RAILWAY-STATIONS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Suresnes, or (on race days) Longchamp, 60 c., on Sundays and festi¬ 
 vals 1 fr. ; between St. Cloud and Suresnes 25 or 50 c. ; between 
 the other stations 50 or 75 c. 
 
 Departures every hour, from the Pont Royal from 9 a. m. , and 
 from Suresnes from 7. 15 a. m.; on Sundays oftener (see local 
 time tables). 
 
 Stations: — Pont Royal, Po-nt de la Concorde, Pont des Inva- 
 lides, Quai de Passy, Pont de Grenelle, Auteuil, Billancourt, Bas- 
 Meudon, Sevres, St. Cloud, Longchamp, Suresnes. 
 
 III. To Charenton. From the Pont de Bercy-Ceinture. 
 
 Fare 15, on Sundays 20 c. 
 
 Stations: — Bercy-Ceinture, Ivry, Alfortville, Charenton-le- 
 Pont. 
 
 8. RAILWAY-STATIONS. 
 
 The numerous railways radiating from Paris belong to live dif¬ 
 ferent companies and start from eight different stations. The ‘Che- 
 min de Fer de Ceinture’ is managed by these companies jointly. A 
 sixth line of railway, the ‘Ligne duMidi’, communicates with Paris 
 by means of the Orleans line. 
 
 The ‘Indicateur’ mentioned at p. 24 will be found useful. It 
 may be purchased at the railway stations, omnibus offices, etc., or 
 consulted at the hotels and cafes. 
 
 Several of the stations have railway-omnibuses in connection 
 with them, running from the sub-office of the company to each 
 train (see below). 
 
 Persons intending to start at an early hour in the morning 
 should order a cab or railway-omnibus on the previous evening to 
 prevent disappointment. 
 
 1. Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest. Two Stations. 
 
 (1) . Rue St. Lazare, 110, and Rue l>’ Amsterdam, 9, at the 
 corner (Pl., red, 6), for the Lignes de Banlieue (suburbs) and the 
 Lignes de Normandie. For St. Oermain, Auteuil, St. Cloud, 
 Versailles (right bank), Argenteuil, and Ermont , the entrance is 
 in the Rue St. Lazare. For Havre, Dieppe, Rouen (r. bank), 
 Cherbourg , etc., the entrance is in the Rue d’Amsterdam. 
 
 For the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture, which encircles Paris, and 
 connects the different termini, and of which the Gare de St. Lazare 
 is the principal station, see p. 232. 
 
 Restaurants in the Vicinity: — *Felix, under the arcades, to the 
 right on arriving; cLe Rome, Place du Havre 17, to the left of the 
 station, near the omnibus office; two Tavernes Anglaises , Rue 
 d’Amsterdam 24 and 26 ; Etablissement de Bouillon , Rue St. La¬ 
 zare 118. 
 
 (2) . Boulevard Montparnasse, 44 (PI. , blue, 6), for the 
 Ligne de Banlieue, Paris to Sevres and Versailles (left bank), and 
 the Lignes de Bretagne to Brest, Le Mans, Rennes, Angers, and 
 Nantes. 
 
Information. 8. RAILWAY-STATIONS. 
 
 27 
 
 Restaurants: — Railway Restaurant, at the end of the station, 
 moderate; de France et de Bretagne, at the hotel of that name, side 
 of departure. 
 
 II. Chemin de Fer d'Orleans. Two Stations. 
 
 (1) . Quai d.’Austerlitz (PI., blue, 11) for the lines to Or¬ 
 leans, Tours, Bordeaux, etc. 
 
 Bureaux Succursales (sub-offices): — Rue St. Ilonore, 130, 
 and Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 18; Rue Notre Dame des Yictoires, 
 28; Rue de Londres, 8; Rue Le Peletier, 5; Rue Notre Dame do 
 Nazareth, 30; Rue de Babylone, 17; Place St. Sulpice, 0; Place 
 de la Madeleine, 7. Railway-tickets including the omnibus-fare 
 may be procured at these offices. The traveller should be at the 
 office 55 min. before the starting of the train. 
 
 Restaurant at the station, side of departure. 
 
 (2) . Boulevard d’Enfer (PL, blue, 5, 7) for the local lines 
 to Sceaux and Orsay-Limours. 
 
 Bureaux Succursales: — Rue de Londres, 8; Rue Notre Dame 
 des Victoires, 28; Rue St. Honore, 130. 
 
 III. Gave deLyon, forthe Lyons and Mediterranean line. Station 
 in the Boulevard Mazas (PL, blue, 12). Trains to Fontainebleau, 
 Dijon, Chdlon-sur-Saone, Macon, Neuchdtel, Geneva, Lyons, Mar¬ 
 seilles, etc. (Opposite the station, towards the N., rises the 
 Prison Mazas, a model prison with 1260 cells for solitary con¬ 
 finement, where the generals and deputies arrested after the 
 coup d’dtat in 1851 were incarcerated, and frequently mentioned 
 in the dark annals of 1871.) 
 
 Bureaux Succursales: — Rue de Rambuteau, 6; Rue Coq-He'ron, 
 6; Rue de Rennes, 45; Rue St. Lazare, 88; Rue des Petites 
 Ecuries, 11. 
 
 Restaurant at the station, dear. 
 
 IV. Chemins de Fer de l’Est. Two Stations. 
 
 (1) . Place de Strasbourg (PL, red, 10) for the line to Stras¬ 
 bourg, and the branches to Rheims, Metz, Troyes, Mannheim, and 
 Bale. 
 
 The direct line to Mulhouse has a station of its own, to the left, 
 at the back of the main building. 
 
 Bureaux Succursales: — Rue du Bouloi, 9; Boulevard de Se¬ 
 bastopol, 34; Rue Quincampoix, 47 and 49; Place de la Bastille, 
 at the Vincennes Station; Place St. Sulpice, 6; Rue Basse du 
 Rempart, 50 (in the Boulevard des Capueines, near the Grand 
 Hotel). 
 
 At the last-named office tickets are issued for Alsace, Lorraine, 
 Switzerland, Germany, Austria, and Constantinople. 
 
 Restaurants: — Schaeffer, Rue de Strasbourg 11 , good; Hotel 
 de Paris, moderate. 
 
 (2) . Place de la Bastille (PL, white. 12), for the line to 
 Vincennes only. 
 
28 
 
 9. POST OFFICES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Bureau Succursale : Place de la Bourse, where tickets are sold. 
 
 V. Chemin de Fer du Nord. Station in the Place Rou- 
 baix, 18 (PL, red, 10), for the Lignes de Banlieue to St. Denis, 
 Enghien, etc.; and for the Lignes du Nord to Soissons, Rheims, 
 etc., to Chantilly, Creil, Amiens, Boulogne, Calais (and Lon¬ 
 don), and to Compiegne, Brussels and Cologne. 
 
 Restaurants: — Barbotte, opposite the side of departure; Le- 
 quen, nearer the Boulevard Denain, opposite the station; Au Me- 
 ridien, Boulevard Denain, of the highest class; Duval, 29, and 
 Blavette, 24, Rue de Dunkerque, the street passing in front of the 
 station, side of departure. 
 
 9. POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. 
 
 The General Post Office is in the Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 
 No. 55, near the church of St. Eustache (p. 141). The post- 
 office undertakes the transmission of letters , written papers, and 
 printed matter, not exceeding 3 kilogrammes (6 3 / 5 lbs.) in weight, 
 and samples not exceeding 300 grammes (9 3 / 5 oz.) in weight and 
 25 centimetres (9 3 /4in.) in length, width, or thickness. The trans¬ 
 mission of larger parcels is undertaken by the Messageries Ratio¬ 
 nales, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 28, the Compagnie Generate 
 des Messageries, Rue du Bouloi 21, and other companies. 
 
 The PosteRestante office, at the corner of the Rue Pagevin and 
 the Rue Coq-IIeron, is open daily from 8 a. m. to 8 p. m., but on 
 Sundays till 5 p. m. only. In applying for letters, the written or 
 printed name, and in the case of registered letters, the passport or 
 the addressee should always be presented. It is, however, preferable 
 to desire letters to be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house 
 where the visitor intends residing. 
 
 Postage. Stamps are sold at all the tobacco-shops. It may be 
 useful to observe that a half-franc piece in silver weighs 2'^ gram¬ 
 mes, a two-franc piece in silver or a ten-centime piece in copper 10 
 grammes (!/ 3 oz.). 
 
 Prepaid letters under 10 grammes in weight within the limits 
 of Paris 15 c., unpaid 25 c.; for any part of France, Algeria, 
 and Corsica, prepaid 25 c., unpaid 40 c. Prepaid letters (10 
 grammes, or */ 3 oz.) to Great Britain 30 c., unpaid 50 c.; to N. 
 America 50 or 80 c.; Belgium, Switzerland, 30 or 50 c.; Holland, 
 Italy, Spain, Empire of Germany, 40 or 60 c. ; Denmark 50 or 
 60 c. ; Austria, Sweden, 60 or 80 c.; Norway, 70 or 90 c. ; Russia, 
 80 c. or 1 fr. 10 c. — Printed matter and packets must be handed 
 in at the office, and not thrown into a letter box. — Postage for 
 newspapers (always prepaid), which must be enclosed by a narrow 
 band only, capable of being easily removed, for France 4 c., for 
 Great Britain 8 c. 
 
 Registered Letters, or ‘lettres chargees’, must be furnished with 
 
Information. 
 
 9. POST OFFICES. 
 
 29 
 
 two seals in the ordinary case, but with five if the value of the con¬ 
 tents is written on the outside of the envelope. A receipt is given, 
 on presenting which, in case of loss, a compensation of 50 fr. may 
 be recovered for an ordinary letter, and the full value for one of 
 which the contents have been declared. 
 
 Clearance of Letter Boxes . The letter-boxes are cleared seven 
 times a day; on Sundays and festivals the street-boxes six times 
 only, but those of the offices seven times. The clearances for the 
 evening-trains are as follows : — 
 
 Ordinary street letter-boxes at 5 p. m. — At 5. 30 p. m. those 
 of the offices Rue de la Ste. Chapelle, 15; Rue d’Antin, 10; Rue 
 Palestro, 5; Avenue Victoria, 5; Rue St. Antoine, 170; Rue Pascal, 
 4; Rue des Feuillantines, 86; Rue du Cherche-Midi, 53; Rue 
 Vaugirard, 36 (Palais du Luxembourg); Rue Serpente, 18; Rue 
 St. Dominique, 184; Rue de Bourgogne, 2; Rue Montaigne, 26 ; 
 Boulevard Malesherbes, 86 ; Avenue Josephine, 42 ; Rue d’Amster- 
 dam, 19; Gare du Nord; Rue de Bondy, 28; Rue des Ecluses St. 
 Martin, 4; Rue de Strasbourg, 2; Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 36; 
 Boulevard Voltaire, 105; Rue d’Aligre, 32; Boulevard Mazas, 19; 
 Boulevard de l’Hopital, 26. — At 5. 45 p. m. those in the Rue 
 Pont-Neuf, 117; Rue de Luxembourg, 9; Rue d’Antin, 19; Bou¬ 
 levard Beaumarchais, 83; Rue des Vieilles Haudriettes, 4; Rue 
 Cardinal Lemoine, 28; Rue Bonaparte, 21 ; Rue St. Dominique St. 
 Germain, 56; Rue de la Madeleine, 28; Rue St. Lazare, 11; Rue 
 Taitbout, 46; Rue d’Enghien, 21. —At 6p. m. those of the offices 
 in the Place de la Bourse; Rue de Cle'ry, 28; Rue St. Honore. 
 202, and General Post Office. 
 
 Late Letters. If too late for the last clearance of the boxes 
 letters may be posted from 5. 45 to 6 for a taxe supplemental of 
 20 c., and from 6 to 6. 15 for 40 c. at the offices Rue Pont Neuf, 
 17; Rue de Luxembourg, 9; Rue d’Antin, 19; Boulevard Beau¬ 
 marchais, 83; Rue des Vieilles Haudriettes, 4; Rue Cardinal Le¬ 
 moine, 28 ; Rue Bonaparte, 21 ; Rue St. Dominique, 56 ; Place de 
 la Madeleine, 28; Rue St. Lazare, 11; Rue Taitbout, 46; Rue 
 d’Enghien, 21. 
 
 For 20 c. additional, letters may also be posted from 6 to 
 6. 15, and for 40 c. from 6. 15 to 6. 30, at the Rue St. Ilonore, 
 202; Place de la Bourse, 4; Rue de Cle'ry, 28; and at the Ge¬ 
 neral Post Office. 
 
 Letters are also received at the General Post Office from 6. 30 
 till 7 for an additional sum of 60 c. Letters will likewise be for¬ 
 warded on the same evening if posted at the proper railway-stations 
 before 7. 25 p. m. 
 
 From the suburbs and outskirts of Paris the evening mails are 
 generally despatched at 4. 30 p. m. 
 
 Deliveries. There are seven deliveries of letters in Paris on 
 week-days, and five on Sundays and festivals. 
 
30 
 
 9. POST AND TELEGRAPH. Preliminary 
 
 Telegraph Offices. Each of the Arrondissements contains its 
 telegraph office. The most convenient are at the General Post 
 Office, Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 55; Avenue de la Rd- 
 publique, 2; Rue de Rivoli, 17; Place de la Bourse, 12 (day 
 and night); the Luxembourg; Ministere de l'lnterieur, Rue de 
 Grenelle St. Gemrain, 103 (day and night); Rue St. Lazare, 112; 
 Avenue des Champs Elysees, 33 (till midnight); Rue Lafayette, 
 35, corner of Rue Laffttte; Grand Hotel; Boulevard St. Denis, 16; 
 Gare du Nord. 
 
 Charges. Telegram of twenty words, the address and signature 
 being reckoned as well as the message itself, from any office in France 
 to another in the same town or same department 60 c.; to other 
 parts of France 1 fr. 40 c.; to Belgium and Switzerland 3 fr. (or 
 2 fr. if sent from a department on the frontier, in each case); Ger¬ 
 many, as far as the Weser and the Werra 3, beyond these rivers 
 4 fr. ; Holland, Spain, Italy, London 4fr.; Portugal 5 fr.; Austria, 
 Great Britain (other parts than London), and Ireland 6 fr. ; Wal- 
 lachia and Servia 7 fr.; Sweden 8 fr.; Greece and Turkey 10 fr.; 
 Russia in Europe 11 fr. 
 
 10. SHOPS, BAZAARS, MARKETS. 
 
 Shops. With the exception of the houses in the aristocratic 
 Faubourg St. Germain, there are few buildings in Paris which have 
 not shops on the ground-floor. The most brilliant and attractive are 
 those on the Boulevards, especially towards the W. end, in the 
 Palais Royal, the Rue de la Paix, Rue Richelieu, Rue Vivienne, 
 and Rue de Rivoli. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to caution the traveller against shops with 
 such placards as ‘ liquidation ’, ‘vente forcee ’, expressions which are 
 generally as little consistent with truth as the ‘unparalleled bar¬ 
 gains’ and ‘astounding sacrifices’ of English speaking countries. 
 
 A few of the best and most respectable of the innumerable 
 and tempting ‘magasins’ of Paris are here enumerated. The 
 prices are generally somewhat high, and not always fixed. 
 
 Aluminium : Morin , Boulevard Poissonnicre 21. 
 
 Amber ornaments: Scheidel, Boulevard de Sebastopol 66. 
 
 Arms, see Gunsmiths. 
 
 ‘Articles de Menage’: *A la Menayere , Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, 
 20, an extensive and well-stocked bazaar, worthy of a visit. 
 Fixed prices. Admission gratis. 
 
 ‘Articles d’Orient’: Au Pacha, Boul. des Italiens, 24; Ala Porte 
 Chinoise, Rue Vivienne 36. 
 
 ‘Articles de Paris’ (toys, fancy-articles): Bazar de I'Indvstrie, 
 Boulevard Poissonnicre, 27; Verry , Boul. des Italiens, 19 
 ('■Galeries de Fer'). 
 
Information . 10. SHOPS, BAZAARS, ETC. 
 
 31 
 
 ‘Articles de voyage’: * Bazar du Voyage , Bonl. des Capucines, 17, 
 and Place de l'Opera, 3, one of the most attractive shops of 
 the hind; Dock du Campement , Bonl. Poissonnicre , 14; 
 Moynat , Place du Theatre Fran<;ais, 3; Vve Censier, Rue du 
 Faubourg Poissonnicre, “29. 
 
 Artificial flowers: A/me Lafontaine , Rue Richelieu, 18; Merten*, 
 Rue St. Marc, 30 ; Louis et Lucie, Rue de la Paix, 17. 
 Bandagiste: Milliary, Rue Vivienne, 1. 
 
 Bijouterie en imitation: Mourier, Boulevard des Italiens, 6. 
 Booksellers (reading-rooms, etc.), see p. 38. 
 
 Bootmakers: Jouvenot, Rue St. Honore, 165; Roche , Rue Riche¬ 
 lieu, 69; Delvil , (Passage Jouffroy, 46. — For Ladies: 
 Meier, Rue Tronchet, 17; Jordan, Place de la Madeleine, 
 13; Ferry, Rue Scribe, 11; Chapelle, Rue Richelieu, 85. 
 Boots, ready-made: Aux Quatre Diables, Rue Auber, 1 •, Dupuis, 
 Rue Neuve des Capucines, 22; Bonl. Poissonnicre, 29; 
 Boul. de Sebastopol, 68; Rue du Ban, 19; Docks de la 
 Cordonnerie, Rue de Rivoli, 144; Au Prince Eugene, Rue 
 de Turbigo, 29. near the Boul. de Sebastopol. 
 
 Bronze copies of celebrated antiques: *Barbedienne, Boulevard 
 Poissonnicre, 30. 
 
 Bronzes, etc.: *Susse Freres, Place de la Bourse, 31; Giroux, 
 Boulevard des Capucines, 43 (see also Toyshops); Philippe. 
 Galerie Montpensier, 66 (Palais Royal); Levy, Boul. Mont¬ 
 martre, 5; Aux Mille Pendules , Boul. Montmartre, 27. 
 Cabinet-makers: Talian, Boulevart des Italiens, 11, and Rue 
 Pastourel, 5. 
 
 Cambric handkerchiefs: Compagnie Irlundaise, Rue Tronchet, 36 ; 
 
 Piet Freres, Rue Vivienne, 8. See also Drapery. 
 
 Carpets: *Braquenie, Rue Vivienne, 16; Choquel, next door. 
 Cashmeres, see Shawls. 
 
 Chemists and Druggists: Pharmacie Normale , Rue Drouot, 15; 
 Des Panoramas, Rue Montmartre, 151; Favrot, Rue 
 Richelieu, 102; Laroze ,! Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 
 26; Du Louvre, Rue St. Honore', 151; Hogg (English), 
 Rue Castiglione, 2; Swan (Flnglish), Rue Castiglione, 12. 
 Chocolate and Tea: Marquis, Passage des Panoramas, 57, 58, 59, 
 and Rue Vivienne, 44; Dettwiller et Leleu, Hue Richelieu 
 28, and Rue Montpensier 25; Perron, Rue Vivienne, 14; 
 Masson, Boul. de la Madeleine, 9; Guerin Boutrou, Boul. 
 Poissonnicre, 29; Compagnie Coloniale, Rue de Rivoli, 132; 
 Compagnie Fran(aise, Boulevard de Sebastopol, 18; Choco- 
 lat Suchard, Rue de Turbigo, 41. Suchard’s, Menier’s, and 
 Ibled’s sold everywhere. 
 
 Clothing, sec Tailors, Milliners. 
 
 Confectioners, see p. 19. 
 
 Corals : Defoy ft Cie, Boulevard des Italiens, 4. 
 
32 
 
 10. SHOPS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 Corsets: Mmes de Vertus, Rue Auber, 12. 
 
 Cutlery: Touron, Rue de La Paix 24; Cardeilhal , Rue de Ri- 
 voli, 19. 
 
 Delicacies, preserved meats, etc.: *Chevet , Palais Royal (see p. 13) ; 
 *Potel et Chabol , Boul. des Italiens, 25; Cuvillier, Rue de 
 la Paix, 16; Demange et Testol, Rue- de la Chausse'e d’An- 
 tin, 15. 
 
 Diamonds: Fontana , in the Palais Royal, Galerie Beaujolais, 93, 
 94 ; Mellerio , Rue de la Paix, 9. 
 
 Drapery (linen, etc.) : Grande Maison de Blanc , Boul. des Capu- 
 cines, 6; Magasin de Blanc, Boul. des Italiens, 8; Chapron, 
 Rue de la Paix, 11. See also Haberdashery. 
 
 Electro-plate (‘alfe'nide’): Christophle et Cie, Pavilion de Hanovre, 
 at the corner of the Boul. des Italiens and the Rue Louis le 
 Grand, not far from the Nouvel Opera; also Rue de Bondy, 
 56, and at numerous depots. 
 
 Dressmakers, see Milliners and Dressmakers. 
 
 Engravers: Lozano , Rue Vivienne, 45; Bouvet , Rue Castiglione, 
 14; Serin , Boul. Montmartre, 21; Decourcelle , Galerie 
 Montpensier, 40 (Palais Royal). 
 
 Engravings: Goupil et Cie, Boulevard Montmartre, 19, and Rue 
 Chaptal, 9 ; *Martinet (engravings and photographs), Rue 
 de Rivoli, 172, opposite the Pavilion de Rohan, and Boul. 
 des Capucines, 12, on the ground-floor of the Grand Hotel. 
 
 Fans: Chardin, Rue Auber, 17. 
 
 Fancy Articles, see Articles de Paris; Toyshops; also Bazaars 
 (p. 36). 
 
 Furniture, see ‘Articles de Menage.’ 
 
 Furriers: Compagnie Generate de Leipzig , Boul. Poissonniere, 9 ; 
 A la Regence (MaTy), same boulevard, 15; Aux Americains, 
 Rue St. Honord, 12; Lachnitt, same street, 165; Lhuillier 
 et Grebert, Rue de l’Arbre Sec, 18 (between Rue St. Honore 
 and Rue de Rivoli). 
 
 Glass and Crystal: A I'Escalier de Cristal (Lahoche), Rue Scribe, 
 6, and Rue Auber, 1, near the Opera; Boutigny , ‘Bernard 
 Palissy’, Passage des Princes, 5 bis, near the Boul. des 
 Italiens, and Galerie Montpensier, 19 (Palais Royal); Loisy, 
 Rue du Louvre, 6. 
 
 Glovers: *Jouvin, Rue de Rougemont, 1, near the Boul. Poisson¬ 
 niere; Boivin, Rue Castiglione, 10; Privat, Boulevard 
 Haussmann, 46; Rist, Boulevard des Capucines, 9; Du¬ 
 rand, Rue de la Chaussde d’Antin, 22; A la Tour de 
 Nesle, Boulevard des Italiens, 3; Berlin, same boule¬ 
 vard, 27. 
 
 Goldsmiths and Jewellers: very numerous and tempting, especially 
 in the Rue de la Paix and the Palais Royal. Every genuine 
 gold article bears the government stamp of the ‘Monnaie’, or 
 
Information. 
 
 10. SHOPS. 
 
 33 
 
 mint. Philippi , Rue Richelieu, 19; Dumont , Rue de la 
 Chausseed'Antin, 4; Rouvenat, Rue Hauteville, 62; Auboin 
 (also watches) , Boul. Poissonniere, 1; Sarazin (watches), 
 Boulevard St. Denis, opposite the Porte St. Denis; 
 Detouche, Rue St. Martin, 228; A la Pomme cl'Or, Boul. de 
 Sebastopol, 54. — Imitation-jewellery: Mourier, Boul. des 
 Italiens, 6, and Palais Royal, 36, 68, 69, 84, 125, 132. 
 
 Gunsmiths: Claudin, Boul. des Italiens, 38; Faure le Page, Rue 
 Richelieu, 8, near the Theatre Pranfais; Rochutte, same 
 street, 97; Dublin, Boul. St. Denis, 17. 
 
 Haberdashery, ‘Nouveautds’ , etc.: *Grands Magasins du Louvre, 
 occupying almost the whole ground-floor of the Hotel du 
 Louvre, with two entrances in the Rue de Rivoli, two in the 
 Rue St. Honore', and one at the corner of the Rues Marengo 
 and St. Honore', a magnificent shop containing all kinds of 
 materials for ladies’ dress; *A la Ville de Paris , Rue Mont¬ 
 martre, 170, near the boulevards; Grands Magasins de la 
 Paix, Rue du Ouatre Septembre , 23,24,25, 29; Aux Trois 
 Quartiers , Boul. de la Madeleine, 21,23; A Pygmalion, 
 Rue de Rivoli, 15; *Au Petit St. Thomas, Rue du Bac, 
 27 — 35; Au Bon Marche, same street, 135, 137, and Rue 
 de Sevres, 18 — 24; Aux Deux Magots, Rue Bonaparte, op¬ 
 posite St. Germain des Pres; A la Ville de St. Denis, Rue 
 du Faubourg St. Denis, 91, near the Gares du Nord and de 
 l’Est; Au Pauvre Jacques, Place du Chateau d’Kau. 
 
 Hairdressers, very numerous: A la Regence , Rue St. Honors 
 159, etc. — ‘Taille de cheveux’ generally 50, ‘coup de fer’ 
 (curling) 25 — 50, ‘pour faire la barbe’ 25, ‘friction’ (wash¬ 
 ing the hair) 50 e. 
 
 Harmoniums: Debain , Place Lafayette, 116, opposite St. Vincent 
 de Paul; Alexandre, Rue Richelieu, 106. 
 
 Hatters: Gibus, Rue Vivienne, 20; Random Fils, Rue Vivienne, 
 26; Delion, Passage .louffroy, 21 ; Raoul, Boul. des Ita¬ 
 liens, 28; Marechal , to the r. before entering the Palais 
 Royal at the end next the Louvre. 
 
 India-rubber Wares: Guibal, Rue Vivienne, 40; Lurcher, Rue 
 d’Aboukir, 7, not far from the Porte St. Denis. 
 
 Lace: Cavally, Boul. des Italiens, 8; A la Glaneuse (ribbons, etc.), 
 Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, 7 ; Lefebure Frlres, Rue de 
 Cle'ry, 42 (leading out of the Rue Montmartre). 
 
 Leather Wares: * Klein, of Vienna, Boulevard des Capueines, 6, 
 novelties of Paris aiulVienna, also bronzes, objects of art, etc. 
 — See also Toyshops, ‘Articles de Paris’, ‘Articles de Voyage’. 
 
 Marbles and Onyxes (from Algeria): ('ornu. Boulevard des Ita¬ 
 liens, 24. 
 
 Milliners and Dressmakers: numerous ‘Nouveautes and ‘Modes 
 in the boulevards and principal streets, the best of which 
 Bsedekfh. Paris. 4th Edition. 3 
 
34 
 
 10. SHOPS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 have little display in the windows. Du Riez , Place du 
 Nouvel Ope'ra, Rue Halevy , 8 ; Mantel et Ther'ese , same 
 street, 12; Boudet, Boul. de la Madeleine, 7; Clievrillon, 
 Boul. Haussmann, 64, at the corner of the Rue Caumartin ; 
 Virot , Rue de la Paix, 12; Herst, Rue Drout, 8; Servot, 
 Boul. Montmartre, 19; Grosse , Passage du Saumon 63, near 
 the Rue Montmartre, good and not unreasonable; Duchot, 
 Rue Vivienne, 37; Pingat , Rue Louis le Grand, 30. 
 
 Money-changers: Chine , Galerie Montpensier, 25, Palais Royal; 
 Mac-Henry Chaigneau , Rue Neuve St. Augustin, 38; 
 Meyer and Cohn, Rue Vivienne, 18; Mayer et Fils, Rue 
 St. Honore, 235. 
 
 Mineral Waters: Boulevard Montmartre, 22, at the corner of the 
 Rue Drouot. 
 
 Mourning: *Au Cypres, Rue de la Cliaussde d’Antin, 5. 
 
 Music: Au Menestrel, Rue Vivienne, 2, and Galerie Montpensier, 
 42; Choudens , Rue St. Honore, 263; Camhagi , Rue 
 Richelieu, 112, near the boulevards. 
 
 Musical Boxes: Letellier, Boul. Poissonniere, 17; Wurtel, Passage 
 Vivienne, 38 and 40, near the Palais Royal. 
 
 Opticians: Chevalier, Galerie de Valois, 158 (Palais Royal); Mai- 
 son Soleil, Galerie Vivienne, 21, 23; Harweiler, Boulevard 
 Montmartre, 22. 
 
 Oriental Curiosities, see ‘Articles d’Orient’. 
 
 Paper, see Stationery. 
 
 Paperhangings: Maigret , Boul. des Italiens, 3; Morand, Rue 
 Tronchet, 6, near the Madeleine ; Salagnad , IlueRoyale, 10. 
 
 Perfumery: Societe Hygienique, Boulevard des Italiens 11, Rue 
 de Rivoli, 55 and 79, Galerie d’Orleans (Palais Royal), 24; 
 Piver , Boulevard de Strasbourg, 10, Rue Vivienne, 29 
 (Place dc la Bourse), and Boul. des Italiens, 23; Pinaud et 
 Meyer, Boulevard de Strasbourg, 37, Boul. des Italiens, 30, 
 and Rue Richelieu, 53; Violet, Boul. des Capucines, 12; 
 Rimmel, Boul. des Italiens, 17; Guerlain, Rue de la Paix, 
 15; Legrand, Rue St. Honore, 107; Botot (dentifrices), 
 Boul. des Italiens 18, and Rue St. Honore, 229 ; Docteur Pierre 
 ( dentifrices), Place de l’Ope'ra, 8, and Boul. Montmartre, 16. 
 
 Photographers: Carjat et Comp., Rue Notre Dame de Lorette, 10; 
 Disderi, Boul. des Italiens, 8; Numa Blanc , same boule¬ 
 vard, 29; Mulnier, same boulevard, 25; Mayer et Pierson, 
 Boul. des Capucines, 3 ; Nadar, same boulevard, 35; Pierre 
 Petit, Place Cadet, 31 ; Reutlinger, BoulevardMontmartre, 21 ; 
 Leon et Levy, Boul. de Sevastopol, 113; Mouilleron , Rue 
 Auber, 1, near the Opera. See also Engravings. 
 
 Pipes, Mouthpieces, etc. : Sommer, Boul. des Italiens, 11, 13; Gay, 
 Passage Jouffroy, 19; Au Pacha , Place de la Bourse, 1, 3. 
 
 Porcelain and Fayence, see Glass. 
 
Information. 
 
 10. SHOPS. 
 
 35 
 
 Preserved fruits: Jourdain, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 52. 
 
 Shawls: Compagnie des Indes, Rue Richelieu, 80; Frainais et 
 Gramagnac , Rue Richelieu, 82; Oulman, Rue Drouot, 
 2, at the corner of Boul. Montmartre; L'Union des Indes 
 (Lehoussel), Rue Auber, 1, near the Opera. 
 
 Shirt-makers: Plessis, Passage des Panoramas, 51 ; May, Boul. des 
 Italiens, 14; Demame , Rue de la Chausse'e d’Antin, 5, not 
 far from the Opera; Au Carnaval de Venise , Boul. de la 
 Madeleine, 8; Chemiserie Speciale , Boul. de Sebastopol, 
 102, near the Square des Arts et Metiers; Chemiserie du 
 Palais ltoyal, Rue St. Honors, 167. 
 
 Silk mercers: Compagnie Lyonnaise, Boulevard desCapucines, 37; 
 Cavally, same boulevard. 8; A la Colonie des Indes (fou¬ 
 lards), Rue de Rivoli, 114; Au Louvre , in the hotel of 
 that name, very extensive. See also Haberdashery. 
 
 Silversmith: Wiese, Rue Richelieu, 86. 
 
 Stationery: Marion fils et Gery, Cite' Bergere, 16, near the Rue du 
 Faubourg Montmartre; Madroni, Boul. de la Madeleine, 3. 
 
 Surgical instruments: Luer , Place de lEcole de Medecine, 19; 
 Charri'ere, Rue de 1’Ecole de Me'decine, 6. 
 
 Tailors: Dusautoy , Boul. desCapucines, 8; llenard, Boul. des Ita¬ 
 liens, 2; Lejeune, same boulevard, 8; Laurent Richard, 18; 
 Pomadere, 24; Vivien (for children), 28. — Ready-made 
 clothing: *A la Belle Jardiniere , Rue du Pont Neuf 2, a 
 vast establishment; Au Palais de Cristal, at the corner of 
 the Rues Vivienne and Filles St. Thomas, near the Bourse; 
 Godchau, Rue Montmartre, at the corner of the Rue Bergere ; 
 *A I’Vnion des Nations, Boul. Poissonniere, 23; Aux Gale- 
 ries de Paris, Boul. des Italiens, 29. 
 
 Tea, see Chocolate and Tea. 
 
 Tobacco, see Cigars, p. 36. 
 
 Toilet, see Perfumery, Hairdressers, ■ Artie,les de Voyage’. 
 
 Toyshops: * Giroux, Boul. des Capucines, 43, a large and beautiful 
 repository of fancy-articles, playthings , and objects of art, 
 converted into a vast bazaar towards Christmas, when it is 
 visited by thousands of people. — Au Nain Bleu, Boul. des 
 Capucines, 27; Galeries de Fer, Boul. des Italiens ; Guiton, 
 Passage Jouffroy, 13, 15; Simonne, Passage Delorme, 188, 
 near the Tuileries; *Au Paradis des Enfants (Perreau), 
 Rue de Rivoli, 156, and Rue du Louvre, 1. 
 
 Travelling Requisites, see ‘Articles de Voyage’. 
 
 Trimmings (silk, lace, braid, etc.): A la Ville de Lyon, Rue de la 
 Chaussee d’Antin, 6; A la Glaneuse, same street, 7; A 
 VHermite, Rue Auber, 21. 
 
 Trunks and portmanteaus, see ‘Articles de Voyage’. 
 
 Umbrellas, parasols, and walking-sticks : Maison Antoine , Galerie 
 de Chartres, 26, 29 (Palais Royal); Bison, Rue Neuve des 
 
 3* 
 
36 10. SHOPS, BAZAARS, MARKETS. Preliminary 
 
 Petits Champs, 39 ; Hartmann, Boulevard des Capucines, 21; 
 Harville , Boul. Poissonniere, 7 bis. 
 
 Watches and Clocks: Charles Leroy et Fils , Palais Royal, Galerie 
 Montpensier, 13, 15; Oudin, Galerie Montpensier, 52; 
 Pie fort, Galerie Vivienne, 38, 40; Golay-Leresche , Rue 
 de la Paix, 2 ; Geissler , Rue de la Chaussee d’Antin , 64; 
 repairs executed. See also Goldsmiths. 
 
 Wines and Liqueurs : Compagnie des Grands Vins de Bourgogne, Rue 
 Royale St. Honore, 6; Societe CEnophile , Rue Montmartre 
 near the boulevard; Rivet (Champagne and Bordeaux), Boul. 
 Poissonniere, 8; Rctderer et Cie, Rue Lafayette, 44 ; Cliquot, 
 Rue de la Michodiere, 7; Agence Vinicole , Cite de Trevise, 3 : 
 Guy , see p. 20. See also Delicacies, etc. 
 
 Wood, carved: Wirth, Boul. des Italiens, 7. 
 
 Those who desire to transmit their purchases direct to their 
 destination should secure the services of a goods-agent; e. g. 
 M. Hofmann, Rue du Mail, 18; Camus et Cie, Rue du Faubourg 
 Poissonniere, 25; Jebaurne, Rue de Tre'vise, 35. 
 
 Bazaars. Establishments of this kind, for the sale of fancy 
 articles, travelling requisites , toys, trimmings, small wares, etc., 
 abound at Paris. The largest and most attractive are La Menagere, 
 the Bazar cie VIndustrie , the Dock du Campement , and the Ga- 
 leries de Fer, already mentioned (see ‘Articles de Menage, de Paris, 
 de Voyage’}. They afford a pleasant lounge in wet weather, being 
 open to the public, and many of their wares are really good and 
 c heap. 
 
 Cigars. The importation and manufacture of tobacco and 
 cigars are a monopoly of government. Tobacco-shops, where 
 postage-stamps are also sold, are to be found in almost every 
 street. Prices invariable: ‘ Bordelais' at 5 c. , l Medianitos' at 
 15 c. (sold only in bundles of 6), and l Londres’ at 30 c. (in 
 bundles of 10) are tolerably good for the price. Genuine imported 
 cigars, varying in price from 30 c. to l 1 ^ fr. each, are sold 
 only at the principal depot, Quai d’Orsay 63, and at the Grand 
 Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines. — Cigarettes, sold in packets, cost 
 2—5 c. each. — Oriental tobaccoes and cigarettes are sold at No. 32, 
 Boulevard des Italiens. — Passers-by are at liberty to avail them¬ 
 selves of the light burning in every ‘bureau de tabac’, without 
 making any purchase. 
 
 Auctions. An edifice built in 1848 expressly for ‘ Ventes aux 
 Encheres’, or sales by auction, is the Hotel des Ventes Mobilieres, 
 Rue Drouot 5, near the Boulevards Montmartre and des Italiens.. 
 Sales daily from 2 to 4 or 5 o’clock. Furniture on the ground-floor ; 
 objects of art, pictures , coins, etc., on the first floor. The articles 
 may be inspected by the public on the day or morning previous 
 to the sale. The auctioneers are termed Commissaires Priseurs. 
 
Information. 10. SHOPS, BAZAARS, MARKETS. 
 
 37 
 
 Strangers are cautioned against making purchases here in person, 
 as trickery is too frequently practised, but a respectable agent may 
 be employed to bid for any article they may desire to purchase. 
 
 Book-auctions take place in the evening at the Salle Silvestre, 
 Rue des Bons-Enfants 28, near the E. side of the Palais Royal. 
 
 Markets. The *Halles Centrales (comp. p. 143), adjoining the 
 church of St. Eustache (PI., white, 7), the principal vegetable 
 and provision market of Paris, should be visited in the morning at 
 an early hour. Supplies begin to arrive about midnight, from 
 which hour till the middle of the following day the neighbouring 
 streets are crowded with vehicles of every description. None but 
 dealers are permitted to make purchases before 9 a. m., at which 
 hour a bell is rung to announce the opening of the market to the 
 general public. 
 
 Another handsome covered market is the Marche St. Germain, 
 to the N. of the church of St. Sulpice. Most of the other quar¬ 
 ters of the city now boast of their ‘marehe eouvert’, built in the 
 style of the Halles Centrales. 
 
 The Marche aux Chevaux, formerly situated to the S. of the 
 Jardin des Plantes, on the Boulevard de l'Hopital(PL, blue, 10), is 
 now closed, and a new site for it has not yet been chosen. Horses 
 of superior breed are sold by auction on Thursdays, from 1 to 4 
 o’clock, and by private bargain on other days, at the ‘ Tattersall 
 Francois', Rue Beaujon, 24, near the Champs Elysees. 
 
 Doy Market. A dog-market is held on Sundays. 12—2 o’clock, 
 at the old Horse Market, where many a lost favourite is recognised 
 and redeemed by its bereaved owner. At the Fourriere des Chiens, 
 in the adjoining Rue Poliveau, stray dogs are kept and fed for a 
 week, after which they are destroyed if not reclaimed. 
 
 Flower Markets. At the back of the Tribunal de Commerce 
 (Wednesdays and Saturdays); in the Place de la Madeleine (Tues¬ 
 days and Fridays); near the Chateau d’Eau (Boulevard St. Martinj) 
 and in the Place St. Sulpice (Mondays and Thursdays). 
 
 The Marche du Temple , a new market. chiefly destined for 
 dealers in second-hand articles, ‘friperie’, etc., occupies the site of 
 the ancient‘Temple’, near the Place du Chateau d’Eau, and contains 
 about 2400 stalls and shops. 
 
 The Marche aux Bestiaux at Villette, near the Abattoirs ( p. 234), 
 is capable of containing 5000 head of oxen and 30.000 sheep. 
 
 The Marche aux Oiseaux has recently been transferred to the 
 Boulevard Voltaire. 
 
 The Halle aux Vins , or wine-depot of Paris, adjoining the 
 Jardin des Plantes, occupies the extensive site of the suppressed 
 abbey of St. Victor, and extends for nearly half a mile along 
 the bank of the Seine. Some half million casks here lie in bond, 
 the duty being paid on their removal. Average prices per hogshead 
 of 300 bottles: sound Me'doc table-wine 200 ft.; St. Julien 
 
38 
 
 11. BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 250 fr. ; Chateau wines of the Mddoc 650 fi\, finest quality 1000 fr.; 
 Chateau Lafitte, Ch. Latour, and Ch. Margaux 1500—2000 fr. 
 English duty 65 fr. (carriage to London 8 fr.), American at 
 present 50 per cent, of the value. 
 
 11. BOOKSELLERS, READING ROOMS, NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 Booksellers. Qalignani's Library, Rue de Rivoli, 224, an old 
 establishment with a large assortment of English and American books. 
 Qalignani's Messenger, the well-known English paper, is published 
 here. This daily journal (single paper 40 e., per week 2 1 / 2 fr.), which 
 has been in existence for 60 years, contains an excellent summary 
 of political and commercial news, the latest information from Eng¬ 
 land, the United States, and the whole of the continent, and a 
 list of the principal sights and amusements of Paris. It gives a list 
 of American visitors in Paris daily, and another on Fridays of 
 English and American visitors to the chief cities of Europe. The 
 English and American places of worship (p. 41) are enumerated 
 every Saturday. 
 
 Librairie Franck, Rue Richelieu, 67, and F. Klinclcsieck, Rue 
 de Lille, 11, chiefly for French and German literature. •— Ilaar 
 et Steinert, Rue Jacob, 9, best shop for German books. — Librai¬ 
 rie Internationale, Boulevard Montmartre 15, at the corner of the 
 Rue Vivienne. —• Gamier, Palais Royal, between the Galeries d’Or- 
 le'ans and Montpensier. — Book-stalls under the porch of the 
 Theatre de l'Ode'on, and many others in the Quartier Latin. — For 
 the addresses of other ‘libraires-editeurs’, consult the ‘Bottin’, or 
 Directory of Paris (p. 3). 
 
 Reading Rooms. Qalignani's Reading Room, Rue de Ri¬ 
 voli, 224, is well supplied with English, American, German, French, 
 Belgian, and other newspapers and periodicals. Admission per diem 
 50 c., per fortnight 5 fr., per month 8fr. ; open 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
 An extensive Circulating Library is annexed to the establishment. 
 — Salon Litteraire. in the Passage de l’Opera (N. side of the Boul. 
 des Italiens), Galerie du Ilarometre 11, French, German, and 
 English newspapers; adm. 25 c., per week 2 fr., fortnight 3'/ 2 
 fr., month 6 fr.; open 9 a. m. to 11 p. m. — Cabinet Litteraire, 
 Passage Jouffroy 12 (Boul. Montmartre), a rendezvous of foreign 
 newspaper correspondents. — Salon Litteraire National, Rue de 
 Mehull, near the Thdatre Italien. 
 
 Reading-rooms on the left bank of the Seine: Rue de Tournon 
 16, near the Luxembourg; Rue Casimir de la Vigne 10, near the 
 Odeon ; Rue Soufflot 18, etc. 
 
 These reading-rooms are convenient places for letter-writing. 
 Materials for the purpose may also be procured at any of the cafds. 
 
 Newspapers. Qalignani's Messenger, see above. American 
 Register (single paper 30 e.), office No. 3, Rue Scribe.—The Pari- 
 
Information. 
 
 11. NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 39 
 
 sian newspapers are sold at the ‘kiosques’ in the boulevards and in 
 all the principal streets. The following are among the most im¬ 
 portant (15 c. each): — 
 
 Conservative Monarchical: Le Figaro (circulation of 50,000), Le 
 Constitutionnel (Bonapartist), Le Francois, Le Oaulois (Bonap.), 
 La Gazette de France (estab. 1030), La Gazette des Tribunaux, 
 Le Journal de Paris, Le Messager de Paris (Orleanist), Le Monde 
 (clerical), Le Moniteur, L'Ordre (Bonap.), Le Paris- Journal , La 
 Patrie, Le Pays( Bonap. ), La Presse, Le Soir, LeSoleil( Orleanist), 
 L'Union (Legitimist), L’Univers (Ultramontane). 
 
 Conservative Republican: Le Temps. Le Bien Public, Le Siecle, 
 La France, Le Journal des Debats, La Liberte , Le Nationtd, Le 
 XIX. Siecle. 
 
 Radical Republican: L'Opinion Nationale, L’Evenement, Le 
 Rappel, La Republique Francaise. 
 
 There are also numerous ‘petits-journaux’ (5 c. each): Le Petit 
 Journal (circulation of 350,000), Le Petit Moniteur , La Petite 
 Presse, Le Petit National , etc. 
 
 Reviews and Periodicals : Revue des Deux Mondes, Le I’orre- 
 spondant , Revue Britannique, etc. 
 
 Illustrated Journals: L'Illustration , L'Univers Illuslre , Le 
 Monde Illustre, Le Journal Amusant, LaVie Parisienne , Le Charivari, 
 Le Journal pour Rire, and many others. 
 
 12. BATHS, PHYSICIANS, MAISONS DE SASTfi, etc. 
 
 Baths. Warm. Baths in the floating establishments on the Seine, 
 and in many others in different parts of the town. Charge from 
 50 c. to 1 fr., an additional charge being made for towels. *De la 
 Samaritaine, below the Pont Neuf, right bank (PL, white, 7); des 
 Tuileries, near the Pont Royal, same side; Rivoli, Rue de Itivoli, 
 202; Algeriens, Rue Vivienne, 47 ; de Jouvence, Boul. Poissonniere, 
 30 (Hotel Beau Sdjour); de la Chaussee d'Antin , in the street of 
 that name, 46; du Havre, Rue St. Lazare , 120, near the station. 
 — On the left bank: A VHydrophere , Rue Tarane, 12; St. Sul- 
 pice, in the Place of that name, 12. 
 
 There are also a number of establishments for mineral, Turkish, 
 vapour, and other baths : Bains Vivienne, Rue Vivienne, 15 ; Bains 
 Florian Connette, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 79 (chiefly for 
 vapour and sanitary baths); Bains de Mer et de Seine de la Frigate, 
 below the Pont Royal, on the 1. bank (sea-water, Russian 
 baths, etc.); Goffinon, Boulevard de Strasbourg, 85 bis; Gautier's 
 electric, baths , Rue Sevignd, 11 , etc. 
 
 Cold Baths in the Seine : *Deligny, Quai d’Orsay, near the 
 Place de la Concorde (PL, white, 5), admirably fitted up; du 
 Pont Royal (entered from the Quai Voltaire); *IIenri IV. (entrance 
 near the statue on the Pont Neuf); de IHCitel Lambert, near the 
 
40 
 
 12. BATHS, etc. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 <Auai de Be'thune (lie St. Louis; PL, white, 10), recommended to 
 ladies also; Ecole de Natation d'Asni'eres (p. 235), etc. 
 
 The usual charges at all these baths are: admission 20, 
 swimming-drawers and towel 20. cabinet l'or undressing 10 c., 
 in addition to which the ‘gar<;on’ expects a fee of 10 c. — It 
 should bo observed that one half of each bath is generally very 
 shallow, being intended for non-swimmers, while the other half 
 is often not more than 5—6 ft. in depth. Divers are therefore 
 recommended to use great caution. The same remarks apply to 
 the baths for ladies, where the charges are similar. 
 
 Physicians. Should the traveller require medical advice during 
 his stay in Paris he should obtain from his landlord the name of 
 one of the most eminent practitioners in the neighbourhood of his 
 hotel or lodgings. Information may also be obtained at the 
 English and other chemists’ shops (p. 31), or at Galignanis 
 (p. 38). As changes of address are not unfrequent, the ‘ Bottin ’, 
 or Directory, may also be consulted. Usual fee from 5 to 10 fr. 
 per visit or consultation. Among many others the following 
 names may be mentioned : — 
 
 Dr. Bishop , Rue Matignon, 22; Dr. Burridge, Avenue Mon¬ 
 taigne, 68; Dr. Campbell , Rue Royale St. Honord, 24; Dr. Chepmell, 
 Rue Matignon, 19; Dr. Churchill, Rue Scribe,?; Dr. Cormack, 
 Rue d’Aguesseau , 7, physician of the Hertford British Hospital, 
 Route de la Ilevolte, 5 ; Dr. James, Rue de Luxembourg, 51 ; Dr. 
 Maccarthy , Boulevard Malesherbes, 17; Dr. Macgavin , Rue 
 Saussaies, 10; Dr. Otterburg , Boulevard des Capucines, 39; Dr. 
 Rayner, Avenue Uhrich, 11 ; Dr. Shrimpton, Rue d’Anjou St. Ho- 
 nore, 17 ; Dr. Ward , Rue Castiglione, 8. 
 
 Oculists: Dr. Herschel, Rue Laflitte, 18; Dr. Liebreich , Rue 
 Marignan, 21; Dr. Sichel, Rue Nouve des Mathurins, 86. 
 
 Dentists: Adler, Rue Meyerbeer, 2, near the Opera; Auber, 
 Rue St. Honore', 342; Didsbury , Rue Meyerbeer, 3; Dorigny , Pas¬ 
 sage Vero-Dodat, 33; Duchesne, Rue Lafayette, 45; Gage, Rue de 
 laPaix, 3; George, Rue de Rivoli, 224; Henogue , Rue Richelieu, 
 8; Reinvillers, Boul. des Italiens, 11; Rogers, Rue St. Honore, 270; 
 Seymour, Rue Castiglione, 10; Weber, Rue Dupkot, 25. 
 
 Chemists and Druggists, seep. 31. 
 
 Maisons de Sante. In case of a serious or tedious illness, the 
 patient cannot do better than take up his quarters at one of the 
 regular sanitary establishments. There are many well conducted 
 houses of the kind in Paris and the environs, where patients are 
 received at from 150 to 1000 fr. per month, including board 
 and lodging, medical attendance, baths, etc., and where drawing¬ 
 rooms, billiard-tables, gardens, etc., as well as good tables d’hooe, 
 are provided for convalescents. A carefully worded agreement 
 between the patient and the director should, if possible, be drawn 
 up before entering. The following may be recommended: — Mai- 
 
Information. 13. ENGLISH CHURCHES. 
 
 41 
 
 son Municipale de Sante (Dubois), Rue du Faubourg St. Denis 
 200 (terms 4 — 15 fr. per day, everything included); Etablissement 
 Hydrotherapique d'Auteuil (Dr. Beni-Barde), Rue Boileau 12; 
 Maison de Sante du Faubourg St. Germain , Rue du Cherche- 
 Midi 84. — British Hospital , see above. 
 
 13. ENGLISH DIVINE SERVICE. PROTESTANT 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 English Churches. For trustworthy information, visitors are 
 recommended to consult the Stranger's Diary of the Saturday 
 number of Galignani’s Messenger (p. 38). At present the hours of 
 service are as follows: — 
 
 Church of England : — Chapel of the Embassy. Rue d’Aguesseau 5, 
 Faubourg St. Honore', near the English Embassy, services at 11.30, 
 3. 30, and 7. 30. — Marbceuf Chapel , Avenue Marbceuf 10 bis, 
 Champs Elys6es; services at 11, 3. 30, and 7. 45. — English 
 Chapel, Rue St. Hippolyte 38, Passy. 
 
 English Congregational Chapel, Rue Royale St. Honore 23 ; ser¬ 
 vices at 11. 30 and 7. 30. 
 
 Engl. Rom. Catholic Church, 50 Avenue de la Reine Hortense, 
 mass at 7. 8, 9, and 10, on Sundays, sermons at 10 and 3. 
 
 Protestant American Chapel, Rue de Berry 21 ; services at 11.15 
 and 3. 30. — American Episcopal Church , Rue Bayard, services at 
 11. 30 and 3. 30. 
 
 Church of Scotland: Chapel of the Oratoire, Rue de Rivoli 162; 
 services at 11 and 3. 
 
 Wesleyan Chapels: Rue Itoquepine 4, adjoining No. 41 Boule¬ 
 vard Malesherbes, near the Madeleine. Service on Sundays at 
 11. 30 a. m. and 7. 30 p. m., on Wednesdays at 7. 30 p. m. — 
 Also at Asnieres, near the railway-station. 
 
 Protestant Churches (Temples Protestants). Calvinist: L'Oratoire, 
 (p. 134), Rue St. Honore 157, opposite the N. entrance of the Louvre. 
 — Ste. Marie (formerly Eglise de la Visitation des Filles Ste. Marie), 
 Rue St. Antoine 216, near the Place de la Bastille. — Pentemont, 
 Rue de Grenelle St. Germain 106, near the Ministere de l’lnterieur, 
 on the 1. bank of the Seine. — Eglise de la Trinite , Rue Roque- 
 pine 5. 
 
 The Eglise Evangelique , Rue de la Victoire, corner of the Rue 
 St. Georges, is a French reformed church independent of the state. 
 Service in all the above at 11. 15 a. m. 
 
 Lutheran (Confession d'Augsboury ): Temple des Carmes Bil- 
 lettes, Rue des Billettes 16, to the N. of the Hotel de Ville. Ser¬ 
 vice at 12 in French , at 2 in German. — Temple de la Re¬ 
 demption, Rue Chauchat 5, fitted up as a place of worship in 1853. 
 Service at 11. 
 
42 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 14. EMBASSIES. 
 
 Austria, Rue Las Cases, 7, 9 (office-hours 1-—3 o’clock). 
 Bavaria, Rue de Berry, 5 (12-—2). 
 
 Belgium, Rue du Faubourg St. Honord, 153 (12—2). 
 
 Denmark, Rue de l’Universitd, 37 (1—3). 
 
 Germany, Rue de Lille, 78 (12—iy 2 ). 
 
 Great Britain, Rue du Faubourg St. Honord, 39 (10—3). 
 Holland, Rue Montaigne, 9 (12—2). 
 
 Italy , Avenue des Champs Elysees, 6 (1—3). 
 
 Russia, Rue Crenelle St. Germain, 79 (12—2). 
 
 Spain, Qnai d’Orsay, 25 (1—4). 
 
 Sweden and Norway, Rue de Rovigo, 22 (12—2). 
 
 Switzerland, Rue Blanche, 3 (10—3). 
 
 Turkey, Rue Laffitte, 17 (12—3). 
 
 United States of N. America, Avenue de lTmpdratrice (or Uhrich), 
 75; office, Rue de Chaillot, 95 (10—3). 
 
 The above are the present addresses; but a change of residence 
 sometimes takes place. 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 Performances begin at various hours between 0 and 8 o’clock, 
 and generally last till midnight. As the hours for opening the 
 doors are frequently changed, the play-bills should always be 
 consulted beforehand. 
 
 As the theatres present a highly characteristic phase of Parisian 
 life, the travsller should on no account omit to visit some of them ; 
 but as the acting can hardly be appreciated without some 
 acquaintance with the colloquial and slang expressions of every 
 day life, which can only be acquired by a prolonged sojourn in 
 Paris, visitors are strongly recommended to purchase the play 
 to be performed, and peruse it beforehand. Tresse, Palais Royal, 
 Galerie de Chartres 2, 3, and the Magas in Theatrale, Boul. St. 
 Martin 12, may be mentioned as shops where dramatic com¬ 
 positions of every kind are sold. The programmes, entr'actes, etc. 
 offered for sale at the theatres contain merely the names of the plays 
 and the performers. 
 
 Among the best places may be mentioned the fauteuils 
 d'orchestre, or stalls next to the orchestra, behind which are the 
 stalles d’orchestre; then the fauteuils de balc.on, or front seats of 
 the second tier of boxes. 
 
 As the arrangement and names of the seats differ in the dif¬ 
 ferent theatres, the intending visitor should consult the plan of 
 the building at the office. As a rule the price of a seat is the 
 best criterion of its advantageousness. Several complete lists are 
 given below as specimens. The first boxes and the ‘fauteuils de 
 balcon’ are the most suitable places for ladies. In some theatres 
 ladies are not admitted to the orchestra stalls. 
 
Information. 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 43 
 
 The Parterre or pit is always crowded. Those who wish to 
 secure a tolerable seat in this part of the theatre should be at 
 the door at least an hour before the beginning of the performance, 
 and, with the exact entrance-money in hand, fall into the rank 
 (faire queue) of other expectants. Frequenters of the pit, on 
 leaving the theatre between the acts, usually secure their seats 
 by attaching their handkerchiefs to the bench. 
 
 It is a wise precaution, especially in the case of very popular 
 performances, to secure a good seat by purchasing a ticket 
 (billet en location) beforehand at the office of the theatre (bureau 
 de location), between 12 and 5 o’clock, or at one of the theatre 
 offices (Boulevard des Italiens 15, and Boulevard des Capucines, 
 near the Grand-Hotel), which are open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
 A numero de face, and not one de cote, should if possible be 
 secured. These billets en location generally cost 1—2 fr. more 
 than au bureau, i. e. at the door, but the purchaser has the 
 satisfaction of knowing that his seat is reserved. Box-places, 
 however, cannot thus be obtained beforehand except by taking a 
 whole box (4—6 seats). The different charges for admission 
 given below vary according to the season and the popularity of the 
 piece and of the actors. Strangers are particularly cautioned against 
 purchasing tickets from ‘ valets de place ’ and similar persons, who 
 frequently loiter in the vicinity of the theatres and endeavour to 
 impose on the public. 
 
 The Claque (‘Itomains ’, ‘■Chevaliers du Lustre'), or paid ap- 
 plauders, form an annoying, although characteristic feature in most 
 of the theatres. They generally occupy the centre seats in the pit, 
 under the chandelier or ‘lustre’, and are easily recognised by their 
 simultaneous and vigorous exertions. There are even ‘ entrepreneurs 
 de succes dramaliques' , a class of mercantile adventurers who 
 furnish theatres with claques at stated terms. Strange as it may 
 seem to the visitor, all attempts to abolish this nuisance have 
 hitherto failed. 
 
 The attendants of the ‘ vestiaire ’ or cloak-room are often 
 troublesome in their efforts to earn a ‘pourboire’. One of their 
 usual attentions is to bring ‘petits bancs’, or footstools, for the use 
 of ladies; and they have a still more objectionable practice of 
 bringing the cloaks and shawls to the box before the conclusion of 
 the performance in order to secure their gratuity in good time. 
 
 Paris contains upwards of forty theatres. In consequence of a 
 decree of 7th January, 1804, granting additional facilities for the 
 erection of new theatres, and abolishing certain monopolies, the 
 number has greatly increased of late. A list of the most important, 
 according to the order prescribed by the police, is here annexed. 
 
 Opera. The old Opera House, or Academic Rationale de Mu- 
 sique, Rue Le Peletier 12 and Rue Drouot (PL, red, 7), to the N. 
 of the Boulevard des Italiens, originally founded in 1671, and 
 
41 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 elected in 1821, was unfortunately burned down in October, 1873, 
 before the Nouvel Ope'ra, or New Opera House (p. 68) was com¬ 
 pleted. The admirable acting and ballet will doubtless be repro¬ 
 duced at the Nouvel Opera, but the old building was unrivalled 
 in its acoustic construction and will hardly be equalled in this 
 respect by the new. Government used to contribute 1^00,000 
 fr. (32,000 l. ) annually towards its support, to w'hich 100,000 fr. 
 was formerly added by the Emperor from the civil list; the 
 gross annual receipts were about 1,200,000 fr. The staff of per¬ 
 formers is about 250 in number; a good tenor receiving a salary 
 of 80,000 fr. Composers and authors of new pieces are each paid 
 500 fr. for each of the first forty, and 200 fr. for each subse¬ 
 quent performance. The opera singers are now performing temporar¬ 
 ily at the Theatre Italien (p. 45). 
 
 The The&tre Francais, Rue Richelieu 6 (PL, white, 7), on 
 the S.W. side of the Palais Royal, occupies the highest rank 
 among the theatres of Paris, and government contributes 240,000fr. 
 annually to its support. The acting is admirable, and the plays 
 are generally of a high class. This theatre was founded in 1600, 
 and was under the superintendence of Molilre from 1658 down to 
 his death in 1673. Voltaire's Irene was performed here in 1768 
 and received with thunders of applause, the author, then in his 
 84th year, being present on the occasion. 
 
 The edifice has been considerably improved of late. The side 
 towards the Rue de Richelieu has been freed from other buildings 
 by the formation of a place , adorned with two fountains. The 
 handsome vestibule, of the Doric order, contains a statue of Vol¬ 
 taire by Houdon; statues representing Trayedy and Comedy, by 
 Lequesne, bearing respectively the features of the celebrated 
 actresses Mile. Rachel and Mile. Mars; and a chimney-piece with 
 a relief representing Comedians crowning the figure of Moliere, also 
 by Lequesne. The lobby is adorned with busts and scenes from the 
 writings of the most celebrated French dramatists, and the green-room 
 with portraits of the most distinguished actors and actresses who 
 have belonged to this theatre. — Seats for 1380 persons. 
 
 Charges for Admission. 
 
 '■Au Bureau', at the door; l En Location secured at the office, beforehand. 
 
 Bur. Loc. 
 fr. fr. 
 
 Avunt-scenes dcs 1. loges 10 12'/a 
 Loges du rez-de-chaussee 8 10 
 
 Premieres loges. 8 10 
 
 baignoires. 7 9 
 
 Fauteuils de lialcon .... 7 9 
 
 Loges de face, 2. rang . . 0 7 
 
 Fauteuils d’orcliestre ... 0 8 
 
 Loges ddcouvertes, 2. rang 5 G 
 
 Orchestre des musiciens . 5 7 
 
 Loges de cotd, 2. rang . . 4 
 
 Bur. Loc. 
 fr. fr. 
 
 Loges fermdes du 3. rang 3>|2 5 
 Fauteuils de la 2. galerie 3 4 
 
 Fauteuils du 3. rang. ... 3 — 
 
 Loges de face, 3. rang . . 3 4 1 jz 
 
 Avant-scenes, 3. rang ... 3 4 
 
 Parterre. 2*J:i — 
 
 Loges de face, 4. rang . . 2 3 
 
 Troisieme galerie. 2 — 
 
 Loges de cotd, 4. rang . . l '|2 2 
 Amphitheatre . 1 — 
 
Information. 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 45 
 
 The Thdfttre Italien, or Italian Opera, is situated in the Place 
 Ventadour (Pi., red, 5) near the Boulevard des Italiens, and is 
 sometimes called the Salle Ventadour. Entrance on the N. side 
 from the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, on the S. from the RueNeuve des 
 Petits Champs. Italian operas (II Barbiere di Siviglia, I Puritani, 
 IlTrovatore, Don Giovanni, etc. J are performed here, and the music 
 and acting are of the very highest order. Performances on Tues¬ 
 days, Thursdays, and Saturdays; vacation from 1st May to 1st 
 October. The building is in a somewhat decayed condition, but 
 is still extremely fashionable and popular. The claque (p. 43) 
 has happily been banished from this theatre. When Mile. Patti 
 sings the prices are considerably raised. — Seats for 1550. Tickets 
 en location not dearer than au bureau. 
 
 Charges for Admission. 
 
 fr. fr. 
 
 Avant-scenes du rez-de-cliaussde, Deuxiemes loges, de face .... 8 
 
 d’entre-sol, et des premieres 15 Deuxiemes loges de cote .... 7 
 
 Fauteuils d’orchestre etdebalcon 12 Troisiemes, et galerie des 3. loges G 
 
 Loges du rez - de - chaussde, pre- Parterre. 5 
 
 mieres fermdes et decouvertes 12 Quatriemes, et galerie des 4. loges 3 
 
 Avant-scenes des deuxiemes Amphitheatre. 2 
 
 loges. 8 
 
 The Opdra Comique, Place Bo'ieldieu or des Italiens (PL, 
 red, 7), is devoted to the performance of the lesser operas, La 
 Dame Blanche, Postilion de Lonjumeau, Fra Diavolo, Domino 
 Noir, Etoile du Nord, Fille du Regiment, etc. It receives an annual 
 contribution of 240,000 fr. from government. — Seats for 1500. 
 
 Charges for Admission. 
 
 Bur 
 
 fr. 
 
 Avant-scenes des 1. loges . 8 
 Premieres, avec salon ... 8 
 Premieres, sans salon ... 8 
 Fauteuils de balcon .... 7 
 Fauteuils des 1. et2. galeries 7 
 Deuxiemes , de face, avec 
 
 salon . G 
 
 Fauteuils d'orchestre .... 7 
 
 Baignoires . U 
 
 Deuxiemes , de face , sans 
 
 salon . 5 
 
 Deuxifemes , de cotd, avec 
 salon .5 
 
 Lor. 
 
 fr. 
 
 10 Avant-scenes des deux- 
 
 9 iemes. 
 
 8 Deuxiemes , de cotd, sans 
 
 8 salon. 
 
 8 Stalles d’orchestre. 
 
 Avant-scenes de la2. galerie 
 
 8 Deuxieme galerie. 
 
 8 Parterre . 
 
 7 Troisiemes loges de face . 
 Troisiemes. de cote . . . . 
 
 6*|z Quatriemes loges. 
 
 Amphitheatre . 
 
 5>|z 
 
 Bur. Lor. 
 fr. fr. 
 
 5 G>)2 
 
 4 G 
 4 5 
 
 3 5 
 
 3 5 
 
 2>| 2 3'|a 
 
 o 3 
 1*|2 2 >| 2 
 j ‘)2 2 
 
 The Oddon, Place de l’Oddon (PL, white, 8), near the Palais 
 du Luxembourg, ranks next to the The'atre Fran^ais, and is 
 chiefly devoted to the performance of classical dramas. A large 
 proportion of the audience consists of students. Some of the plays 
 of Casimir Delavigne, Ponsard, and George Sand were performed 
 here for the first time. The Oddon is closed in June, July, and 
 August. The edifice is of a grave character, with a Corinthian por¬ 
 tico on the side furthest from the Luxembourg. One of the rea¬ 
 sons which Louis XVI. assigned for the erection of this theatre 
 
46 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 in 1779 was, ‘ quenossujets , avant d’entrer et en sortant du spectacle , 
 auront h proximite uric promenade dans les jardins du Luxem¬ 
 bourg'. The ‘promenade en sortant’ is, however, no longer 
 practicable, as the Luxembourg gardens are closed at sunset. — 
 Seats for 1467. 
 
 Admission. The following places may be mentioned: Avantsctnes des 
 premitres, or du rez-de-chaussie 8 or 10 fr.; premitres loges de face 6 or 8 fr.; 
 fauteuils d'orchestre 5 or 7 fr.; fauteuils de balcon 4 or 5 fr.; deuxiimes 
 loges de face 3 or 4 fr.; parterre 2 fr.; amphithtdtre des quatritmes 
 (highest gallery) GO c. 
 
 The Theatre Lyrique, Place du Chatelet (PL, white, 7), destin¬ 
 ed for the operas of French composers, and for those of Mozart, We¬ 
 ber, etc., was founded as a Theatre Historique by Alex. Dumas in 
 1847, in the Boulevard du Temple, whence it was removed to the 
 present site in 1862. It was set on lire by the Communists and al¬ 
 most entirely destroyed on 24th May, 1871, but is undergoing re¬ 
 storation. Performances by the company of this theatre are tempo¬ 
 rarily given at the Theatre de TAtlienee, Rue Scribe 17 , near the 
 Nouvel Ope'ra. 
 
 Admission. Avant-sctnes du rez-de-chausste G or 8 fr.; fauteuils d'or- 
 ctieslre or de balcon 5 or 7 fr.; loges de galerie, de face 2 or 5 fr.; parterre 
 1 fr.; amphilhiatre 50 c. 
 
 The Gymnase Dramatique, Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle 38 (PL, 
 red, 7), for vaudevilles and comedies, deserves commendation, 
 and its pieces are frequently deemed worthy of being perform¬ 
 ed in the The'atre Fran^ais. Scribe wrote most of his plays for 
 this theatre, which enabled him to amass a considerable fortune. His 
 country-seat at Ce'ricourt bore the inscription: — 
 l Le theatre a paye cet asile champetre; 
 
 Vous qui passez, merci! je vous le dois peut-etre.’ 
 
 Yictorien Sardou and Alexandre Dumas the Younger have also 
 achieved great successes at this theatre, and it is still a very favour¬ 
 ite resort. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scenes du rez-de-chausste, or des premitres 8 or 10 fr.; 
 fauteuils d'orchestre, or de balcon 7 or 9 fr.; stalles d'orc/iestre 5 or 6 fr.; 
 slalles de la deux lime galerie 2'ls or 3 fr. 
 
 The Vaudeville, at the corner of the Rue de la Chausse'e 
 d’Antin and the Boulevard des Capucines (PL, red, 5), a hand¬ 
 some new building, completed in 1869, is admirably fitted up, 
 and lighted on a new system. It is chiefly destined for vaude¬ 
 villes and comedies, and its repertory includes La Dame aux Ca- 
 melias , Nos Intimes, L’Oncle Sam , and other favourite pieces. •—• 
 Seats for 1900. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussie, or des premitres 8 or 10 fr. 1 ; 
 fauteuils d'orchestre or de la premitre galerie 6 or 8 fr.; deuxitmes loges 
 de face 5 or 6 fr.; troisihnes loges de face 3 or 4 fr.; avant-schies des 
 troisitjn.es 2 fr.; quatrieme galerie 1 fr. 
 
 The Varietes, Boulevard Montmartre 7 (PL, red, 7), is an ex- 
 
Information. 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 47 
 
 cellent theatre for vaudevilles and farces, and operettas such as 
 La Belle Helene and La Grande Duchesse. — Seats for 1240. 
 
 Admission. Avanl-scbnes du rez-de-chauss&e, or des premieres, 8 or 10 fr. ; 
 fauteuils d'orchestre, de galerie , or de balcon , 6 or 8 fr.; stalles d'orchestre 
 ’4 or 5 fr.; stalles de deuxiime galerie 2 or 2*|2 fr.; parterre 1 or 1>|2 fr. 
 
 The&tre du Palais Koyal, at the N. W. corner of the Palais 
 Itoyal 74, 75 (PL, white, 7), a small hut very popular theatre 
 for vaudevilles and farces of a character not always unexceptionable. 
 The acting is excellent, and the pieces performed are noted for 
 their sallies of genuine Gallic humour. — Seats for 950. 
 
 Admission. Avant-schies , fauteuils d'orchestre or de premier balcon , (5 
 or 8 fr.; deuxihnes loges de face 4 or G fr.; avant-scenes des troisi'emes 2‘|2 
 or 3 fr.; parterre 2 fr. 
 
 Bouffes Parisiens, a small theatre in the Passage Choiseul 
 (PL, red, 5), near the Italian Opera, the specialty of which is comic 
 operettas and parodies. Offenbach was director here for a time, 
 and his Chanson de Fortunio and Orphe'e aux Enters, among other 
 of his works, were performed here for the first time under his 
 auspices. The music is always good, and the pieces often very 
 amusing. — Seats for 700. 
 
 Admission. Avant-schies du rez-de-chausste, or des premibres, 8 or 10 fr.; 
 fauteuils d'orchestre and premitres loges 6 or 8 fr.; deuxihnes luges 4 or 
 5 fr.; stalles or avant-scenes des IroisUmes 2 1 |a or 3 fr.; amphithiatre 1 or 
 l‘|* fr. 
 
 The&tre de la Porte St. Martin, in the Boulevard St. Martin, 
 burned down by the Communists in May, 1871, but since rebuilt. 
 Dramas by Casimir Delavigne, Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, 
 etc., are performed here. Handsome facade with caryatides below. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scbnes du rez-de-chausste , or des premieres . 8 or 
 10 fr. ; premitres loges de face 1 or 8 fr.; fauteuils d'orchestre , or de balcon, 
 G or 7 fr. ; stalles d'orchestre 4 or 5 fr.; all entered from the boulevard. 
 — The Stalles des IroisUmes de face (2 or 3 fr.), the parterre (2 fr.), and 
 other inferior seats are entered from the Rue de Bondy (to the left, 
 passing the Theatre de la Renaissance). 
 
 Theatre de la. Renaissance, a small, but handsome edifice, at 
 the corner of the Boulevard St. Martin and the Rue de Bondy, 
 erected on the site of houses destroyed during the Revolution of 
 1871, with facade towards the Porte St. Martin. Comic operettas 
 and vaudevilles. 
 
 Admission. Avant-schies du rez-de-chausste and loges de balcon de face 
 8 or 10 fr. ; fauteuils d'orchestre, or de balcon, G or 7 fr.; stalles d'orchestre 
 3 or 4 fr.; all entered from the boulevard. — The stalles des troisibmes 
 (l '|2 or 2 fr.) and inferior places are entered from the Rue de Bondy. 
 
 The&tre du Ch&telet, Place du Chatelet (PL, white, 7), a very 
 roomy edifice, specially for fairy scenes and ballet, lighted by 
 ceiling reflectors, a system which has not given satisfaction. The 
 Communists set fire to this theatre in May, 1871, after having 
 placed in it heaps of combustibles soaked in petroleum, but the 
 wardrobe alone was destroyed. Seats for 3352. 
 
 Admission. Loges 7 or 8 fr.; fauteuils de balcon, or d'orchestre, 5 or 
 G fr. •, stalles d'orchestre 3 or 4 fr. ; parterre 1 ' ,2 or 2 fr. 
 
 Th^fttre de la Gaite, Square des Arts et Mdtiers (PL, red, 9), 
 
48 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 Preliminary 
 
 for melodramatic pieces and fairy scenes. Rebuilt in 1861—62; 
 handsome facade with open vestibule towards the square. •— Seats 
 for 1800. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scines du rez - de - chaussie , or des premieres , and 
 loges de la premiere galerie , U or 8 fr.; fauteuils d'orchestre , or de la 
 premiere galerie . 5 or 7 fr.; slalles d'orchestre 3 or 0 fr.; parterre 2 fr.; 
 quatriime amphitheatre 75 c. 
 
 Ambigu- Comique, Boulevard St. Martin 2 (PI., red, 9), for 
 dramas, melodramas, and fairy scenes. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scines du rez-de-chaussie, or des premiires, (i or 
 7 fr.: loges de face 5 or 6 fr.; fauteuils d'orchestre 4 or o fr.; slalles d'or¬ 
 chestre 3 or 5*|2 fr.; parterre 1 fr. 
 
 Folies Dramatiques, Boulevard St. Martin, or rather Rue de 
 Bondy 40, near the Chateau d’Eau, a good theatre of the second 
 class for vaudevilles, fairy scenes, and operettas. Among the most 
 popular pieces are Le Petit Faust and La Fille de Madame Angot. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scines du theatre 6 or 8 fr.; loges de face 4 or 5 fr.; 
 fauteuils d'orchestre , or de galerie, 1. rang, 4 or 6 fr.; slalles d'orchestre 
 2 or 3 fr. 
 
 The&tre de Cluny, Boulevard St. Germain, 71, near the Mus6e 
 de Cluny, for dramas, comedies, and vaudevilles. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scines des premiires, or du rez-de-chausste, 5 or 
 ii fr.; loges, fauteuils d'arant-scine, and fauteuils d'orchestre , 3 or 4 fr.; 
 parterre 1 or PJ 2 fr. 
 
 Theatre du Chateau d’Eau, formerly the Cirque du Prince Im¬ 
 perial, Rue de Malte 50, chiefly for plays suited to the taste of the 
 immediate neighbourhood. 
 
 Admission. Avant-scines 4 or 5 fr.; loges de face 3 or 4 fr.; fauteuils 
 d'orchestre 2 or 4 fr.; avant-scines des premiires 1 ^2 or 2 fr. 
 
 These are the principal theatres of Paris, Among the many 
 inferior theatres, where popular pieces of every description are per¬ 
 formed, the following may be mentioned: — 
 
 Menus Plaisirs , Boulevard de Strasbourg 14. Admission 5 fr. 
 to 75 c. 
 
 Theatre Dejazet, Boulevard du Temple 41. Admission 5 to 1 fr. 
 
 Delassements - Comiques , Boulevard Voltaire. This was once 
 the favourite resort of the infamous Raoul Rigault, but was not 
 spared by his fellow-Communists. It was burned down in May 
 1871, and has since been rebuilt. 
 
 Folies Marigny, Carre des Champs Elysdes, r. side (PL, red, 3). 
 
 Theatre Beaumarchais, Boulevard Beaumarchais, 5 (PI., 
 white, 10). 
 
 Folies Bergeres, Rue Richer 32, a theatre of very humble pre¬ 
 tension to which the public are admitted gratis as at the cafds- 
 chantants, the profits being derived from the refreshments sold. 
 
 Equestrian Performances, accompanied by gymnastics, panto¬ 
 mime, etc. are exhibited at the Cirque d’Ete ( formerly de Vlmpe- 
 
Information. 
 
 15. THEATRES. 
 
 49 
 
 ratrice ) in the Champs Elys6es, near the Rond-Point (PI., red, 3), 
 to the r. in ascending. Performances every evening at 8, from 1st 
 May to 30th October. Seats for 6000. Rest places 2 fr., others 
 1 fr. — The stables are worthy of a visit. 
 
 Cirque d’Hiver (formerly Napoleon), in the Boulevard des Fil- 
 les du Calvaire (PI., white, 9). Performances every evening at 8, 
 from 1st Nov. to 30th April. Admission 2 fr., 1 fr., 50 c. 
 
 These French circuses are worthy of a visit on account of their 
 tasteful arrangement and vast dimensions. The Hippodrome, the 
 largest, which was capable of containing 10,000 persons, was 
 burned down in May, 1871. 
 
 Other Amusements. The following places are worthy of men¬ 
 tion : •— 
 
 Th.eS.tre Cleverman, formerly de Robert Houdin , Boulevard des 
 Italiens 8, for conjuring of all kinds. Every evening at 8. Ad¬ 
 mission 4 fr. to 75 c. 
 
 Th^&tre Seraphin, Boulevard Montmartre 12. Magic lantern, 
 marionettes, etc.; every evening at 7. 30; on Sundays and holi¬ 
 days an additional performance at 2 o’clock. 
 
 Marionettes Lyriques, Boulevard de Strasbourg 17. Performan¬ 
 ces every evening at 7 and at 9 o’clock. 
 
 Panoramas and Theatres de Guignol, see p. 123. 
 
 1G. CONCERTS AND BALLS. 
 
 Concerts. The concerts of the Conservatoire de Musique, Rue 
 du Faubourg Poissonniere 15, which enjoy a European celebrity, 
 take place once a fortnight, from the-second Sunday in January to 
 April. The highest order of classical music, by Haydn, Beethoven, 
 Mendelssohn, etc., as well as by the most celebrated French and 
 Italian composers, is performed with exquisite taste and precision. 
 There are also three sacred concerts given at the Conservatoire du¬ 
 ring Passion and Easter weeks. Strangers cannot easily obtain 
 access to them, as almost all the seats are occupied by regular 
 subscribers. Application may, however, be made, on the Friday 
 following a concert, at the office , Rue du Faubourg Poisson- 
 niftre 15. Balcon and premieres loges 9 fr. ; stalles d'orchestre, 
 loges du rez-de-chaussee, couloirs d'orchestre and du balcon , and 
 secondes loges 6 fr. ; parterre and amphitheatre 3 fr. 
 
 The Concerts Populaires , or Pasdeloup , instituted in 1861 by 
 M. Pasdeloup with a view to encourage a taste for classical music, 
 are always well attended. Good music, performed by an excellent 
 orchestra. They take place in the Cirque d lliver (see above) in 
 winter every Sunday at 2 o’clock. Parquet (‘en location’) 5 fr. ; 
 places numeroUes 3 fr. ; premieres 2*/^ fr. ; secondes 1 >/ 4 fr. ; 
 troisiemes 75 c. 
 
 B^dekkr. Paris. 4tli Edition. 4 
 
50 
 
 16. CONCERTS AND BALLS. Preliminary 
 
 The Concerts des Champs Elysees (Musard), given in summer 
 in the open air, under the trees at the hack of the Palais de Tln- 
 dustrie, are well attended, and the music is good. Ladies alone 
 not admitted. Fridays from 8 to 11 p. m. or midnight; also Sun¬ 
 days from 2 to 5 p. m. 
 
 The Concerts du Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines 12, 
 Thursdays and Sundays at 9 p. m., are generally frequented by a 
 very select audience. Admission 2*/ 2 fr-; reserved seats 3 fr. 
 
 Besides the above, there are the concert-rooms of Herz, Rue 
 de la Victoire 48; Erard, Rue du Mail 13; Pleyel, Rue Roche- 
 chouart 22, and others, where concerts by celebrated performers 
 jrequently take place. See bills and newspaper advertisements. 
 Lent is the principal season for concerts in Paris. 
 
 Frascati is a new concert and ball-room, Rue Vivienne 49, near 
 the boulevards. Concerts on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays 
 at 8 p.m.; admission 2 fr. 
 
 At the Pre Catelan (p. 129), Chalet des lies (p. 129), and 
 Jardin d’Acclimatation (p. 131) open-airc oncerts are given in 
 summer, besides which a band plays frequently in the public 
 gardens of the Tuileries, the Palais Royal, and the Luxembourg 
 (P- 190). 
 
 The Concerts du Casino, Rue Cadet 16 (PI. , red, 7), not far 
 from the Rue Lafayette, take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Satur¬ 
 days, and Sundays, and the Concerts Valentino , Rue St. Honord 
 251, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays (1 fr.). Music toler¬ 
 able, but society far from select. 
 
 Cafes Chantants. The music and singing is never of a high 
 class at these establishments. Those in the Champs Elysees are 
 the most frequented in summer, such as the Alcazar d'Ete, the 
 second to the r. before the circus, the Cafe des Ambassadeurs , the 
 first on the r., and the Cafe de VHorloge, on the left. Then the El¬ 
 dorado, Boulevard de Sebastopol, near the Boul. St. Denis, richly 
 decorated, 7toll p. m. ; the Alcazar d'Hiver, Rue du Faubourg Pois- 
 sonniere 10; Bataclan, Boulevard Voltaire 50; Grand Concert 
 Parisien, Faubourg St. Denis 36 ; Porcherons, Rue Cadet 29, near 
 the Rue Lafayette; Vert-Galant, in summer in the open air at the 
 back of the statue of Henri IV. on the PontNeuf, and in winter in 
 the Rue du Pont Neuf, between the Rue de Rivoli and the Halles 
 Centrales ; Folies Vauphine (nicknamed the ‘ BeuglanF), on the left 
 bank, Rue Mazet, between the Rues Dauphine and St. Andrd des 
 Arts (PL, white, 8). 
 
 The words ‘ entree libre displayed alluringly outside the cafe's- 
 chantants are a ruse to attract the public, as each visitor is obliged to 
 order refreshments of the value of 1 to 2 fr. , according to the re¬ 
 putation of the place. The entertainments, however, are often 
 amusing, and in consequence of the removal of restrictions on 
 
Information. 16. CONCERTS AND BALLS. 
 
 51 
 
 theatres they sometimes consist of vaudevilles, operettas, and farces. 
 Smoking allowed. 
 
 Balls. The public 1 Soirees Musicales et Dansantes’ may be 
 regarded as one of the specialties of Paris , especially in sum¬ 
 mer, and although the society is by no means select, they deserve 
 to be visited by the stranger on account of the gay, brilliant, 
 and novel spectacle they present. The rules of decorum are tole¬ 
 rably well observed, but it need hardly be said that ladies cannot 
 go to them with propriety. These balls are of two classes , the bats 
 d’ete, and the bats d’liiver. 
 
 Among the most frequented of the bats d’ete is the Jardin Ma- 
 bille , near the Rond-Point des Champs Elysees, Avenue Mon¬ 
 taigne 87 (PL, red, 3), united with the old Chateau des Fleurs. 
 This establishment is brilliantly illuminated and richly decorated, 
 and possesses an excellent orchestra. Dancing takes place every 
 evening, but the place is frequented by different people on different 
 evenings. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays , when the ad¬ 
 mission is 5 t'r., many handsome, richly dressed women of the 
 ‘demi-monde’ and exquisites of the boulevards assemble here, while 
 on the other evenings, when the admission is 3 fr., and women enter 
 without payment, the society is still less respectable. — At the Closerie 
 des Lilas, or Jardin Bullier, termed Prado in winter, Carrefour de 
 l Observatoire, near the Luxembourg, a famous establishment in 
 its way, the dancing of the students and artisans with their ‘etu- 
 diantes’ and ‘ouvrieres’ is generally of a wild and Bacchanalian char¬ 
 acter. — The Chateau Bouye, Rue Clignancourt 44, Montmartre, 
 where the Generals Lecomte and Thomas were shot by the Com¬ 
 munists, on 18th March, 1871 , is open for dancing on Mondays, 
 Wednesdays, and Fridays, throughout the whole year (1 fr.). — 
 Elysee Montmartre, Boul. Rochechouart 80. — The Chalet des lies 
 in the Bois de Boulogne and the Casino d’Asnitres (p. 235) are 
 open in summer only. Men 3 fr., women t/ 2 fr. 
 
 The most brilliant and interesting of the bale d'hiver are the 
 Bals Masques du Qrand-Opera , which last from the middle of 
 December till Lent, and take place every Saturday evening, 
 after the termination of the play (admission 10 fr.). They present 
 a scene of boisterous merriment and excitement, and if visited 
 by ladies they should be witnessed from the boxes only. The 
 female frequenters of these balls wear masks or dominoes, the 
 men are generally in evening costume. In consequence of the 
 burning down of the Opera House these balls have been discontinued 
 for the present. 
 
 Similar masked balls take place on Friday evenings atthe Theatre 
 ltalien (admission 10 fr.),and at the Frascati, Rue Vivienne 49, on 
 Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays ( bal pare, 5 and 10 fr.). 
 
 Valentino, Rue St. Honor# 251, Sundays and Thursdays; 
 ‘fetes de nuit’ Tuesdays and Saturdays (admission 1 and 2 fr.). 
 
 4* 
 
52 
 
 17. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS. Preliminary 
 
 Casino, Rue Cadet 16, Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
 Fridays (admission 2 fr.). 
 
 Prado or Closerie des Lilas (see above). Fete de nuit on Tues¬ 
 days during the Carnival (admission 2 fr.). 
 
 Tivoli- Vauxhall, Rue de la Douane24, near the Chateau d’Eau. 
 Fetes, concerts, and balls every evening (admission 1 fr.). Fetes 
 de nuit on Wednesdays and Saturdays (admission 2 fr.). This loca¬ 
 lity presents a curious and amusing scene. 
 
 Elysee-Montmartre (see above). Soirdes dansantes on Sundays 
 (11/2 ft-), Thursdays, and Saturdays (1 fr.). 
 
 17. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS. 
 
 No description will convey to the traveller so good an idea of 
 the general appearance and topography of the French metropolis as 
 a drive on the top of an omnibus or in an open cab through the 
 principal streets. If a cab is hired it should be engaged a Vheure, 
 and the driver desired to take the following route. 
 
 Cab Drive. The Palais Royal is chosen as a convenient start¬ 
 ing-point. Thence through the Rue de Rivoli to the Place de 
 la Concorde (p. 119), the Champs Elysdes (p. 122), Palais de IT 11 - 
 dustrie (p. 123), Arc de l’Etoile (p. 125), down to the Pont d’lena, 
 and across it to the Champ de Mars, Hotel des Invalides (p. 219), 
 Boulevard des Invalides, Boulevard du Mont Parnasse, at the end 
 of which, to the r., is situated the Observatoire (p. 192); thence 
 to the 1., to the Boulevard St. Michel, passing Ney’s monument, 
 the Jardin du Luxembourg (p. 190), the Pantheon (p. 192), the 
 end of the Rue Soufflot and the Palais de Justice (p. 179), near 
 which the two bridges are crossed; then to the r. through the 
 Rue de Rivoli, passing the Tour St. Jacques (p. 136) and the 
 ruins of the Hotel de Ville (p. 137); through the Rue St. Antoine 
 to the Place de la Bastille and the July Column, and finally 
 along the old Boulevards (see p. 59) to the Madeleine (p. 72). 
 
 The drive will occupy about 3 hrs. and (according as the 
 vehicle is hired at 2 fr. or 2*/ 2 ft- per hour) cost 7—8y 2 ft-, in¬ 
 cluding 1 fr. gratuity. It may, however, be reduced to 2*/ 2 hrs., 
 if the cab be dismissed at the Colonne de Juillet. The old 
 Boulevards,-which would thus be omitted, may be sufficiently in¬ 
 spected in the course of subsequent walks. In this case the 
 traveller may then proceed to the cemetery of Pere Lachaise , a 
 walk through the principal parts of which occupies at least 2 hrs. 
 
 From Mdnilmontant, at the corner of the Boulevards Extdrieurs, 
 near Pere Lachaise, an omnibus starts every quarter of an hour 
 for the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire (a drive of 10 min.; 
 correspondance , see p. 24), whence omnibuses run every 5 min. 
 along the principal Boulevards to the Madeleine (in 25 min.). 
 
 Omnibus Drive. Gentlemen may explore the city by taking a 
 similar excursion by omnibus (outside of course), which will occupy 
 
Information. 17. DRIVE THROUGH PARIS. 
 
 53 
 
 nearly double the time, but costs about 90 c. only. The route ap¬ 
 pears a little complicated , but will be easily traced with the aid of 
 the map and the list of omnibus lines (p. 23). Take omnibus 
 from the Madeleine to the Bastille, line E, without correspondence 
 (15 c.), as far as the office in the Boulevard Beaumarchais; thence 
 take line Q to the Palais Royal, asking for a correspondence ticket 
 ( 30 c.) to enable you to alight at the Louvre office and proceed by 
 line C to the Avenue de Neuilly, as far as the Arc de Triomphe de 
 l’Etoile. Here alight, and return by the same line to the Place de 
 la Concorde, without correspondence. Descend to the quay and 
 take line AF to the Pantheon, without correspondence. Walk 
 thence by the street opposite the front of the church to the Jardin 
 du Luxembourg and the Odeon. Here take the C'lichy line K as far 
 as the Palais Royal, without correspondence. Or, better still, walk 
 from the Ode'on by the Rue Racine to the Boulevard St. Michel, 
 cross the. latter, and enter the Rue des Ecoles, where there is an 
 omnibus office for the line from the College de France to the Boule¬ 
 vard de la Chapelle (PL, red, 10). Then take a vehicle of this line 
 as far as the Rue de Rivoli, or the Boulevard St. Martin, or the 
 Gare du Nord, and finally return to the hotel. 
 
 After this preliminary trip, the traveller may proceed at his 
 leisure to explore the metropolis in detail, the description of which, 
 like the city itself, is divided into threeparts: — Biff lit Bank of 
 the Seine, Cite, and Left Bank. 
 
 18. DISTRIBUTION OFiTIJIK. 
 
 A stay of a fortnight or three weeks in Paris may suffice to 
 convey to the visitor a superficial idea of the innumerable attrac¬ 
 tions which the city offers, but a residence of several months would 
 be requisite to enable him satisfactorily to explore its vast treasures 
 of art and industry. The following plan, topographically arranged, 
 will aid him in regulating his movements and economising 
 his time. 
 
 1st Day. Preparatory drive (p. 52). Walk in the Boulevards 
 Montmartre (p. 66 ), des Italiens (p. 68), and desCapucines (p. 68). 
 *Opera (p. 68). Vendome Column (p. 71). ^Madeleine (p. 72). 
 Walk by the Rue de Rivoli to the Palais Royal (p. 77). 
 
 '2nd Day. *PaIace and **Galleries of the Louvre (p. 81). 
 *Place du Carrousel (p. 113). Palace (p. 114) and *Garden of the 
 Tuileries (p. 117). *Place de la Concorde (p. 119). Champs 
 Elysdes (p. 122). 
 
 3rd Day. St. Germain l’Auxerrois (p. 134). Second visit to 
 the Louvre. Panorama (p. 124). *Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile 
 (p. 125). Bois de Boulogne (p. 128). *Jardin d’Acclimatation 
 (p. 131). 
 
 4tli Day. ,*Notre Dame (p. 175). Palais de Justice and *Sainte 
 Chapelle (p. 181). *Tour St. Jacques (p. 136). Hotel de Ville 
 
54 
 
 18. DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. Preliminary 
 
 (p. 137). "“Colonne de Juillet (p. 61). Return by the Boule¬ 
 vards (p. 62). 
 
 5th Day. *Halles Centrales (p. 109). *St. Eustache (p. 141). 
 St. Merri (p. 137). "“Conservatoire des Arts et Me'tiers (p. 147). 
 "“Bourse (p. 66). Parc de Monceaux (p. 133). 
 
 6th Day. "“Panthtfon (p. 192). *St. Etienne du Mont (p. 196). 
 "“Palace, "“Gallery, and Garden of the Luxembourg (pp. 185. 
 187, 190). 
 
 7th Day. "“Jardin des Plantes (p. 201). Gobelins (p. 205). 
 Yal-de-Grace (p. 207). Cimetiere de Montparnasse (p. 228). Re¬ 
 turn by the Boulevard St. Michel (p. 184). 
 
 8th Day. Palais du Corps Le'gislatif (p. 217). *Ste. Clotilde 
 (p. 218). Hotel des Invalides (p. 219). Musee d’Artillerie 
 (p. 222). *Napoleon’s Tomb (p. 224). Ecole Militaire (p. 225), 
 Champ-de-Mars (p. 225) and Trocade'ro (p. 226). Return by Seine 
 steamer. 
 
 9th Day. The SoTbonnefp. 200). "“Musde de Cluny and Pa¬ 
 lais de Thermes (pp. 197, 199). "“Pont Neuf (p. 184). La Mon- 
 naie (p. 211). Palais de l’lnstitut (p. 212). 
 
 10th Day. Chapelle Expiatoire (p. 149). St. Augustin (p. 150). 
 *La Trinity (p. 150). "“Notre Dame de Lorette (p. 151). H: St. Vin¬ 
 cent de Paul (p. 151). "“Buttes Chaumont (p. 167). 
 
 11th Day. "“Cemetery of Pere Lachaise (p. 154). Cabinet 
 of antiquities at the Bibliotheque Nationale (p. 145). Fontaines 
 Louvois and Moliere (pp. 144, 147). St. Roch (p. 75). 
 
 12th Day. St. Germain des PrSs (p. 210). "“Ecole des Beaux - 
 Arts (p. 214). *St. Sulpice (p. 208). Walk in the Quartier Latin 
 (p. 185). 
 
 13th Day. "“Montmartre (p. 168) and its cemetery (p. 169) 
 Gare du Nord (p. 152). St. “‘Denis (p. 259). Gare de l’Est (p. 153). 
 
 14th Day. "“"“Versailles (p. 235). 
 
 15th Day. *St. Cloud arid Sevres (p. 254). "“St. Germain-en- 
 
 Laye (p. 256). 
 
 A day should also be devoted to "“Fontainebleau (p. 267), and 
 another to Compiegne and Pierrefonds (p. 272). If a few days of 
 repose be added, three weeks will now have elapsed without making 
 any allowance for unfavourable weather. 
 
 If the weather is fine at the beginning of the traveller’s stay 
 in Paris, he should lose no time in visiting Pere-Lachaise, Mont¬ 
 martre, St. Denis, Versailles, and even Fontainebleau and Com- 
 pifegne; or these excursions may be interspersed among the other 
 sights according to circumstances^ Dull or wet days may be devoted 
 to the picture galleries and other collections , but in such weather 
 the light is generally unfavourable. 
 
 The excursions to Versailles, St. Cloud, and Sevres may be com¬ 
 bined as follows. Take the Rive Gauche railway to Versailles, stop¬ 
 ping, .however, for an hour at Sevres on the way. Return from 
 
Information. 18. DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. 
 
 55 
 
 Versailles by the Rive Droite railway, alight at the Ville d’Avray 
 station, walk through the park of St. Cloud to the Pont de Bou¬ 
 logne, whence Paris may be regained by omnibus, tramway, steamer, 
 or railway (station above St. Cloud), or a walk through the Bois 
 de Boulogne may be preferred. It is possible to combine a visit to 
 St. Germain-en-Laye with the above route by taking the train 
 from St. Cloud to Asnieres only, and there waiting for another train 
 to St. Germain. If the traveller pays a second visit to Versailles, 
 he should leave Paris by the first train in the morning, in order 
 to allow time for a walk through the gardens, and perhaps to the 
 Trianons, before the opening of the museum. An omnibus runs 
 from Versailles to St. Germain by Marly (p. 254) every afternoon 
 in 1 1/2 h r - The evening may then be very pleasantly spent on 
 the terrace of St. Germain, where a military band occasionally plays. 
 
 The annexed list shows the days an d hours when the differ¬ 
 ent collections and objects of interest are accessible. The early 
 mornings and the evenings are most suitably devoted to the 
 churches and cemeteries, these being open the whole day, to 
 the Champs Elysdes, the Jardin des Tuileries, the Jardin des 
 Plantes, and the Jardin du Luxembourg, and at a later hour a 
 theatre, concert, or ball may be visited. The whole of a Monday 
 may be spent in the churches and public gardens, as the principal 
 collections are then closed. The best time for a walk in the boule¬ 
 vards is between 4 and 6 o’clock, when they present a remarkably 
 busy and attractive scene. 
 
 The traveller should always be provided with his passport, or 
 at least visiting-cards, which will procure him admission to col¬ 
 lections on days when the public are excluded. 
 
 The days and hours enumerated below, though at present 
 correct, are liable to variation. The traveller is therefore referred 
 to Oalignani's Messenger (p. 38), the Saturday number of which 
 also gives information as to the Church of England and other ser¬ 
 vices. The sights of the day are also advertised in the principal 
 French newspapers and by bills posted on columns erected for 
 the purpose in the boulevards. 
 
 Principal Attractions. 
 
 Antiquities, see Louvre, Musde des Thermes , Bibliothfeque 
 Nationale, Ecole des Beaux Arts. 
 
 Bibliotheque Nationale (p. 143). Reading-room daily 10—4 
 o’clock. ‘Salle de Travail’ open daily at the same hours, except 
 holidays, to persons provided with tickets. Cabinet of Coins, Me¬ 
 dals, and Antiquities, Tuesdays, 10y 2 —3 [ / 2 o’clock. 
 
 Bibliothfique Ste. Genevifeve (p. 195), daily except Sundays 
 and holidays. 10—3 and 6 —10 p. m. ; closed from 1st Sept, to 
 15th Oct. 
 
56 
 
 18. DISTRIBUTION OF TIME. Preliminary 
 
 Blind Institution (p. 227), Wednesdays 11/ 2 —4 or 5, with 
 permission from tlie director, or by showing passport. 
 
 Botanical Gardens, see Jardin d’Acclimatation, Jardin dcs 
 Plantes. 
 
 Bourse (p. 66), open 9—6, business hour 12—3. 
 
 St. Cloud (p. 254), park always accessible; the ruins of the 
 chateau may also be inspected. 
 
 Coins, see Hotel des Monnaies, Bibliotlieque Nationale. 
 
 Compiegne (p. 175). Chateau shown daily, 10—4, except 
 Mondays. 
 
 Conservatoire des Arts et Me'tiers (p. 147). Collections, 10 
 — 4; Sundays and Thursdays gratis, on other days admission 
 1 fr. ; library closed on Mondays. 
 
 Deaf and Dumb Institution (p. 208), Saturdays 2—5, with 
 permission from the director or by showing passport. 
 
 *Ecole des Beaux Arts (p. 214), containing the celebrated 
 hemicycle painting of Paul Delaroche, daily, 10—4, fee 1 fr.; in 
 Sept, on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays only. 
 
 Fontainebleau (p.267). Chateau daily except Tuesdays, 12—4. 
 
 Gobelins (p.205), Wednesdays and Saturdays, 1—3, in summer 
 1—4. 
 
 *Hotel des Invalides (p. 219) and church daily. ^Napoleon’s 
 Tomb (p. 224), Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, 
 12—3. Military mass on Sundays at 12, followed by parade. -— 
 Musde d’Artillerie, see below. 
 
 Hotel des Monnaies (p. 211). Collection of coins, Tuesdays 
 and Fridays 12—3; workshops at the same hours on the same 
 days, by permission from the director. 
 
 Imprimerie Nationale (p. 63), Thursdays at 3, by permission. 
 
 *Jardin d’Acclimatation (p. 131), daily till dusk, admission 
 1 fr., Sundays and holidays 50 c. 
 
 *Jardin des Plantes (p. 201). Botanical garden open the whole 
 day; zoological from 1st March to 31st Oct. 11—6, rest of the 
 year 11—4; by card 1—4 (p. 201). Natural history collections 
 Tuesdays and Thursdays 2—5 (in winter till 4), Sundays 1—5 
 (in winter till 4); also by ticket on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
 Saturdays 11—2. Hothouses, by ticket, obtained from the director 
 or from a professor of the museum on showing passport. 
 
 Libraries, see Bibliothfeques. 
 
 **Louvre Galleries (p. 84), daily except Mondays; from 1st 
 April to 30th Sept. 9—5, the rest of the year 10—4. 
 
 **Luxembourg Gallery (p. 187) , daily, except Mondays, 10—4. 
 
 Madeleine (p. 72). Walking about the church prohibited be¬ 
 fore 1 o’clock. 
 
 Malmaison, la (p. 256), Wed., Thursd., and Sund., 12—4. 
 
 Mint, see Hotel des Monnaies. 
 
 Musde d’Artillerie (p.222), Tuesdays andThursdays 12—3 or 4. 
 
Information. 
 
 18. DIARY. 
 
 57 
 
 *Musde des Thermes et de l’Hotel de Cluny (p. 197). Roman 
 and mediaeval antiquities, open to the public on Sundays and holi¬ 
 days 11 — 41 / 2 ; with permission from the director or by showing 
 passport daily at the same hours. 
 
 Museum of Antiquities , see Louvre, Bibliotheque Nationale, 
 Ecole des Beaux-Arts. 
 
 Museum, Industrial, see Conservatoire des Arts et Me'tiers. 
 
 Museum of Natural History, see Jardin des Plantes. 
 
 Napoleon’s Tomb, see Hotel des Invalides. 
 
 *Palais de Justice (p. 179). Courts of law sit daily (except 
 Sundays and Mondays) 11—3. 
 
 *Panorama (p. 124), daily, 10 — 4, 5, or 6 according to the sea¬ 
 son ; admission 2 fr., Sundays 1 fr. 
 
 *Pantheon (p. 192). Dome and vaults , 10—4 or 5, fees 30 c. 
 and 50 c. 
 
 Pictures, see Louvre, Luxembourg, Ecole des Beaux-Arts, Ver¬ 
 sailles. 
 
 *Sainte Chapelle (p. 181) daily, 12 — 4, gratis, except Mondays 
 and Fridays, when a fee must be paid. 
 
 Sevres (p. 256). Collection of porcelain daily, except Sundays 
 and holidays, 11 — 4; the Musde Ceramique on Thursdays only, 
 by permission. Workshops, by permission of the minister of the 
 fine arts. 
 
 Trianon (p. 253), Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, 12—4. 
 
 Tuileries (p. 113), not at present accessible. 
 
 **Versailles (p. 235). Mus€e Historique (p. 238), daily 10 — 4, 
 except Mondays. 
 
 Vincennes (p. 171). The Donjon and chapel daily, on payment 
 of a fee. The Salle d’Armes on Saturdays 12 — 4, by permission of 
 the minister of war. 
 
 Zoological Gardens, see Jardin des Plantes, also Jardin d’Accli- 
 matation. 
 
 Diary. 
 
 (To be compared with the above alphabetical list.) 
 
 Daily. Churches, public promenades , parks. — Bibliotheque 
 Nationale (reading-room), 10 — 4. — Conservatoire des Arts et 
 Mdtiers, 10 — 4, gratis on Sundays and Thursdays, fee 1 fr. on other 
 days. — Sainte Chapelle, 12—4, gratis, except Mondays and Fri¬ 
 days. — Jardin des Plantes: botanical garden the whole day, zoolo¬ 
 gical 10—4 or 6. — Jardin d’Acclimatation , the whole day, ad¬ 
 mission 1 fr., Sundays 50 c. — Ecole des Beaux-Arts, by payment 
 of a fee. — Hotel des Invalides, 12 — 3. — Panorama, 10—4, 5, 
 or 6, admission 2 fr., Sundays 1 fr. — Chateau de Vincennes, by 
 payment of a fee. — Chateau de Fontainebleau (except Tuesdays), 
 12—4. 
 
58 
 
 DIARY. 
 
 Daily except Sundays and Festivals. Bibliotheque Nationale 
 (‘Salle de travail’), 10—4. — Bibliotheque Ste. Genevi&ve, 10—3 
 and 6—10. — Bourse, 9—6. — Palais de Justice (public ball). — 
 Collection of Sevres china. 
 
 Daily except Mondays. Galleries of the Louvre and Luxem¬ 
 bourg, 9—5, or 10—4. — Musee des Thermes, open to the public 
 on Sundays 11—4'/.2, to strangers on other days by showing pass¬ 
 port or permission. — Gallery of Versailles 10—4. — Chateau de 
 Compiegne 10—4. 
 
 Sundays. Conservatoire des Arts et Mdtiers, 10—4 , gratis. — 
 Musde des Thermes, 11—4y 2 . — Collections in the Jardin des 
 Plantes, 1—5. — Hotel des Invalides, military mass at 12, parade 
 
 at 121 / 2 - 
 
 Mondays. Napoleon’s Tomb, 12—3. — Trianon, 12—4. 
 
 Tuesdays. Collections in the Jardin des Plantes, by card 11—2, 
 open to the public 2—4 or 5. — Coins and Antiquities in the 
 Bibliotheque Nationale, 10y 2 —3y 2 . — Coins and Medals at the 
 Hotel des Monnaies, 12—3. — Musde d’Artillerie at the Invalides, 
 12—3 or 4. — Napoleon’s Tomb, 12—3. — Trianon, 12—4. 
 
 Wednesdays. Gobelins, 1—3 or 4. — Blind Asylum, iy 2 —4 
 or 5, by permission or 011 showing passport. 
 
 Thursdays. Conservatoire des Arts et Mdtiers, 10—4, gratis. 
 — Collections in the Jardin des Plantes, by card 11—2, open to 
 the public 2—4 or 5. — Musde d’Artillerie at the Invalides, 12—3 
 or 4. — Napoleon’s Tomb, 12—3. — Musde Ce'ramique at Sevres, 
 by permission. •—■ Trianon , 12—4. — Imprimerie Nationale, at 3, 
 by permission. 
 
 Fridays. Coins and Medals at the Hotel des Monnaies, 12—3. 
 
 Saturdays. Collections at the Jardin des Plantes, by card, 
 11—2. -—Gobelins, 1 — 3 or 4. — Napoleon’s Tomb, 12—3. — 
 Deaf and Dumb Institution, by permission, 2—4 or 5. —Salle 
 d’Armes at Vincennes, by permission, 12—4. 
 
RIGHT BANK OF THE SEINE. 
 
 1. The ‘Grands Boulevards’ and Environs. 
 
 I. Origin and Characteristics of the Boulevards. 
 
 In the year 1670, during the reign of Louis XIV., the bou¬ 
 levards, or boulevarts, i. e. the ‘bulwarks’ or fortifications which 
 then surrounded Paris, were removed, and the moats filled up -j*. 
 On their site sprang up a line of streets, termed ‘boulevards’, of 
 which those on the right bank of the Seine are unsurpassed by 
 those of any other city in the world in the handsomeness of their 
 architecture and the attractiveness of their shops. The original 
 boulevards having been planted with trees, the term has been 
 extended to all the new and broad streets which are thus em¬ 
 bellished. 
 
 Many other boulevards have sprung up in consequence of the 
 vast and still uncompleted street-improvements inaugurated by 
 Napoleon III., such as the Boulevards de Strasbourg , de Sebasto¬ 
 pol, St. Michel, St. Germain, and others; but ‘The Boulevards’, 
 or ‘Les Grands Boulevards’, is a term applied specially to the line 
 of broad streets , nearly 3 M. in length, leading from the Bastille 
 to the Madeleine and subdivided as follows: Boulevard Beau¬ 
 marchais (10 min. walk), des Filles du Calvaire (3 min.), du 
 Temple (8 min.), St. Martin (8 min.), St. Denis (3 min.), Bonne 
 Nouvelle (6 min.), Poissonniere (6 min.), Montmartre (4 min.), 
 des Italiens (8 min.), des Capucines (6 min.), de la Madeleine 
 (4 min.) 
 
 The Boulevards were formerly paved, but as the stones had 
 frequently been employed in the construction of barricades, they 
 were replaced in 1850 by a macadamised asphalt roadway, and by 
 an asphalt pavement for foot-passengers. The trees with which 
 the boulevards are flanked are a source of constant trouble to the 
 municipal authorities, being frequently killed by the gas. When 
 
 ■f A century later Calonne , tbe minister of Louis XVI., caused Paris 
 and its suburbs to be enclosed by a wall, termed Boulevards ExUrieurs, 
 in order to enable government to levy a tax on all provisions introduced 
 into tbe town. This gave rive to the witticism : I.e mur murant Paris 
 rend Paris murmurant, which remains true to this day. Since 1st January 
 1860, tlie precincts of the city have been further extended, and now' 
 comprise 20 (instead of 12) Arrondlssements. with which have been incor¬ 
 porated the parishes of Auteuil, Passy, Batignolles, Montmartre, La 
 Chapelle, La Villette, Belleville, Charonne, Bercv, Vaugirard. and Crenelle. 
 
60 
 
 J. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 dead they are replaced by full-grown substitutes, transplanted 
 at great expense from a more healthy atmosphere. The small 
 glass ‘Kiosques’ where newspapers are sold, the ‘ Vespasiennes', 
 or Colonnes Rambuteau, so named from the mayor by whom they 
 were introduced, with their advertisements, and the stalls where 
 Seltzer water and other beverages are supplied to the thirsty 
 wayfarer, known by the German name of ‘ Trinkhalle , are all of 
 comparatively recent origin. The chairs placed for hire ( chaises 10, 
 fauteuils 20 c.), in the most frequented parts of the boulevards 
 and other public resorts, belong to a company, and are often in 
 great request. A frequent summer visitor to the boulevards, who 
 is largely patronised by the lower classes, is the vendor of coco 
 (liquorice water and lemon-juice), with his quiver-like zinc vessels, 
 shining mugs, and tinkling bell. 
 
 In order to become better acquainted with the Boulevards, the 
 traveller is recommended to walk from the Madeleine to the 
 Bastille, or at least as far as the Chateau d’Eau, and to return 
 by the same route on the opposite side of the street. The best 
 time is the forenoon, when the streets are not too crowded. 'When 
 the traffic reaches its climax, between 2 and 6 p. in., the top 
 of an omnibus is perhaps the best point of observation. In the 
 evening from 8 to 11 also the boulevards are very crowded, par¬ 
 ticularly between the Madeleine and the Boulevard de Sevasto¬ 
 pol, but a walk through them between these hours is interesting 
 on account of the brilliancy and animation of the scene. The 
 number of vehicles which traverse the boulevards, from the ele¬ 
 gant private equipage to the ponderous waggon, is upwards of 
 24,000 daily. 
 
 The shops and many of the cafds in the Boulevard des 
 italiens and those adjoining it, and those in the Rue de la Paix, 
 now far surpass those of the Palais Royal, which in former times 
 were the most attractive in Paris. Cafe's in the boulevards, see 
 p. 18; reading-rooms, p. 39; theatres, p. 42 ; shops and ba¬ 
 zaars, p. 30. 
 
 The Place de la Bastille is selected as the most suitable 
 starting-point for the above-mentioned walk, as, in the direction 
 from E. to W., the interest of the route gradually increases and 
 the traffic becomes brisker. On reaching the Madeleine, the 
 traveller may then descend the Rue Royale to the Place de la 
 Concorde, ascend the Champs Elyse'es to the Arc de l’Etoile, 
 retrace his steps to the Place de la Concorde, traverse the Jardin 
 des Tuileries, follow the broad and handsome Rue de Rivoli past 
 the Louvre, the Palais Royal, and the Hotel de Ville, and thus 
 reach the Colonne de Juillet in the Place de la Bastille. This 
 circuit comprises some of the most striking and characteristic 
 features of Paris. 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 61 
 
 II. Place de la Bastille. Colonne de Juillet. 
 
 Place des Vosges. 
 
 The Place de la Bastille, or simply La Bastille, as it is usually- 
 termed, was formerly the site of the Bastille St. Antoine, a castle 
 consisting of five lofty towers connected by walls and surrounded 
 by a deep fosse. This building, which formed the extremity 
 of the ancient fortifications, and commanded the Seine and the 
 populous and refractory suburb of St. Antoine, was spared when 
 the boulevards were levelled in 1670 (p. 59), and was afterwards 
 employed as a state-prison. On 14th July, 1789, it was captured 
 and destroyed by the insurgents, and the stones were then em¬ 
 ployed in the construction of the Pont de la Concorde. In May, 
 1871, the site of the famous old Bastille was one of the last 
 strongholds of the Communists, by whom every egress of the 
 Place had been formidably barricaded, but it was captured after 
 a desperate struggle by the Versailles troops on the 25th of the 
 month. The Gare de Vincennes was seriously injured on this 
 occasion, and several of the neighbouring houses were destroyed. 
 
 The Boulevard Richard Lenoir, constructed above the covered 
 Canal St. Martin, which is connected with the Bassin du Canal 
 St. Martin on the S. side of the Place, leads out of the Place de 
 laBastille on theN. side. Napoleon I. intended to erect in the Place 
 a colossal elephant fountain, 76 ft. in height, in commemoration 
 of the Revolution, but after the revolution of 1830 the plan was 
 abandoned. The remains of the ‘July heroes' were then deposited 
 here, and the present Colonne de Juillet erected over the spot. 
 The monument consists of a bronze column of the Corinthian order, 
 with a composite capital, rising on the circular, marble-encrusted 
 pedestal which was to have borne Napoleon's elephant, and beneath 
 which are vaults containing the remains of the victims of the 
 revolution. The total height is 164ft., that of the column itself 75ft. 
 The column is surmounted by a tigure emblematical of Liberty, 
 bearing a torch in one hand and a broken chain in the other. The 
 pedestal is adorned with a lion as a symbol of the eventful month 
 of July, above which there is an inscription to the memory of the 
 citizens who fell in the cause of liberty. On the other side are the 
 arms of Paris, and at each corner the Gallic cock, bearing a garland. 
 On the lower part of the shaft are the half obliterated names 
 of the fallen, 615 in number. The monument was inaugurated in 
 July 1840. In February 1848, the ‘Trone de Juillet' was publicly 
 burned in the Place, and the ‘February heroes’ were interred 
 here beside their comrades of 1830. In May 1871 the vaults 
 were again opened for the reception of a number of the victims 
 of the Communist reign of terror. These vaults, and boats on 
 the canal beneath, were tilled with gunpowder and combustibles 
 by the Communists with the view of blowing up the column and 
 
62 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 converting the entire neighbourhood into a heap of ruins. The 
 combustibles were set on fire by them after their defeat, hut the 
 powder having already been expended in the defence of the Place 
 de la Bastille, the fire occasioned no serious damage. The mon¬ 
 ument was pierced with bullet holes and otherwise damaged 
 during the conflict between the insurgents and the government 
 troops, hut has since been repaired. The summit commands a 
 line view, especially of the cemetery of Pere Lachaise (custodian 
 20 c.); hut the ascent of the Tour St. Jacques (p. 136) is pre¬ 
 ferable. 
 
 The Rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, diverging from the Place 
 to the E., was the chief stronghold of the insurgents in June, 
 1848, where their strongest barricade resisted every attack until 
 demolished with the aid of heavy artillery. On 25tli June, the 
 third day of the contest, Archbishop Affre (p. 177) was killed 
 here by an insurgent’s ball, whilst exhorting the people to peace. 
 
 The Canal St. Martin, which passes under the Boulevard 
 Richard Lenoir and communicates with the Seine, being navigable 
 for barges and small steamers, smoke and steam are occasionally 
 seen issuing from air-holes concealed among the small gardens 
 situated here. 
 
 Before beginning our walk along the boulevards, we may, by 
 way of contrast, visit the Place des Vosges, formerly the Place 
 Roy ale (PL, white, 10), to reach which we follow the Rue St. An¬ 
 toine to the W., take the Rue de Birague, the third street to the 
 r., and passing under an arch, enter a large square planted with 
 limes and chestnuts, and adorned with fountains at the angles. 
 In the centre rises the equestrian Statue of Louis XIII., in marble, 
 executed by Dupaty and Cortot, and erected in 1829 to replace 
 a statue of the same king which had been erected by Richelieu in 
 1639 and destroyed in 1792. 
 
 The square occupies the site of the court of the ancient Palais 
 des Tournelles , where the well-known tournament which cost 
 Henri II. his life (p. 140) took place in 1565. Catherine de Me- 
 dicis caused the palace to be taken down, and the houses which 
 now occupy its site to be erected, but the square was not com¬ 
 pleted till the reign of Henri IV. They are built uniformly of 
 red brick, with lofty roofs, and have a series of arcades in front. 
 Richelieu once occupied No. 21, Victor Hugo No. 9 at the S.E. 
 angle, and Mademoiselle Rachel the house opposite, until her death 
 in 1858. The present inhabitants of this gloomy, oldfashioned 
 square, and of the adjoining streets, which together from the Quar- 
 tier du Marais, are chiefly retired officers and persons of small 
 income. For a short time after the revolution of 1792, and again 
 in 1848, the square was named Place des Vosges, in honour of the 
 department of that name, which had been the first to send con- 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 63 
 
 tributions in support of the popular cause, and that name was 
 again revived in 1870. 
 
 From the Place des Vosges the Rue Neuve Ste. Catherine and 
 the Rue des Francs Bourgeois lead towards the N.W. to the Im- 
 primerie Nationale , the extensive and interesting printing estab¬ 
 lishment of the government. Admission, by tickets obtained 
 from the director, on Thursdays at 2 precisely, when all visitors 
 are conducted over the premises in one party. The ‘Cabinet des 
 Poinfons’ requires a special permission. 
 
 III. From the Bastille to the Boulevard des Italiens. 
 
 Porte St. Martin. Porte St. Denis. 
 
 Leaving the Place des Vosges by the street of that name to the 
 r., or starting from the Place de la Bastille, we now ascend the 
 Boulevard. Beaumarchais. The S. side consists of handsome and 
 tastefully built houses, completed since 1848, the N. side prin¬ 
 cipally of small shops. This boulevard and that of the Filles du 
 Calvaire, are chiefly frequented by the denizens of the Faubourg 
 St. Antoine with their blue or white blouses and printed cotton 
 jackets. In fine weather the decayed gentleman and retired of¬ 
 ficer of the Quartier du Marais, recognisable by their old-fashioned 
 costume, occasionally emerge to sun themselves here. No. 25 is 
 the Thiatre Beaumarchais (p. 48), the great resort of the inhabi¬ 
 tants of theneighbourhood. To the r., farther on, is the Cirque 
 d'Hiver (p. 49), the entrance to which is adorned with two 
 equestrian figures. 
 
 The Boulevard du Temple was formerly sometimes termed the 
 Boulevard du Crime , owing to the number of melodramatic and 
 other theatres formerly crowded together on the N. side, but the 
 last of these has recently been demolished to make way for the 
 Boulevard Voltaire. The nickname was doubly appropriate in con¬ 
 sequence of the crime committed here by Fieschi in July, 1835. 
 No. 42 occupies the site of the house , whence he discharged 
 his infernal machine at Louis Philippe, which occasioned the death 
 of Marshal Mortier and several others. 
 
 Opposite, on the S. side, are situated the Jardin Turc and 
 the restaurant Bonvalet (p. 14). both frequented by the re¬ 
 spectable denizens of the Quartier du Marais (see above) and the 
 habitues of the Theatre Ddjazet. The Cadran Bleu , opposite 
 Bonvalet, was formerly one of the most celebrated restaurants in Paris. 
 This side of the street is chiefly occupied by toy and fancy shops. 
 
 We now reach the Place du Chateau d’Eau, so called from 
 the fountain formerly here, which has been removed to the Marche 
 aux Bestiaux at Villette. The new fountain destined to replace 
 the old one is still unfinished. The large basin , 100 ft. in dia¬ 
 meter , is to be surmounted by eight water-spouting lions with a 
 
64 
 
 i. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 candelabrum in the centre. This extensive Place, being destitute 
 of ornament, presents a somewhat dull appearance. A flower- 
 market is held here on Mondays and Thursdays. 
 
 On the r. side of the Place are two extensive buildings. 
 The first of these was erected for the ‘ Magasins-Reunis’ , a 
 speculation which has failed. The second is the large Caserne 
 d'lnfanterie, or du Prince Eugene , capable of accommodating 
 8000 men, and connected with Vincennes and its military estab¬ 
 lishments by the Boulevard Voltaire , which was originally called 
 the Boulevard du Prince Eugene , and was inaugurated in 1862 
 by Napoleon III. The Place du Chateau d’Eau was the scene of 
 a fearful struggle on 24th May, 1871. The insurgents occupied a 
 strong position here, protected by barricades at every outlet. 
 These were taken, one by one, by the Versailles troops, and the 
 insurgents were driven back to the Place de la Bastille, the 
 Buttes-Chaumont, and Pere-Lachaise. Among the houses in 
 this neighbourhood which were entirely burned down was the 
 Thdatre des Delassements Comiques in the Boulevard Vol¬ 
 taire, and many more were seriously injured. The Caserne, 
 which was occupied by the insurgents, was completely riddled 
 with balls and shells. The Boulevard Voltaire runs S.E. from 
 the Boulevard du Temple to the Place du Trone, intersect¬ 
 ing the Place Voltaire, formerly du Prince Eugene , where 
 a bronze Statue of Eugene Beauharnais, erected in 1865, stood 
 till the fall of the empire. It is now proposed to place a statue 
 of Voltaire on the same pedestal. (In the vicinity, in front of 
 the Prison de la Roquette, is the Parisian place of execution.) 
 Farther on, the Boulevard traverses the most populous part of the 
 quarter, inhabited by artizans. A triumphal arch, in commemo¬ 
 ration of the Russian and Italian campaigns of Napoleon III., 
 which it was proposed to erect in front of the columns of the 
 Place du Trone, and of which a model in wood was temporarily 
 constructed, will probably never be executed. 
 
 The unfinished Boulevard des Amandiers, to the 1. of the 
 Boulevard Voltaire, is intended to lead to P&re-Lachaise. 
 
 The Chateau d’Eau fountain stands at the angle formed by 
 the Boulevard de Magenta, leading towards the N., and the Boule¬ 
 vard St. Martin. The latter lies on a slight eminence, which 
 has been levelled in the middle, between the houses, for the 
 convenience of carriages, while the foot-pavements retain their 
 original height. The Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, the Tlie&tre 
 de I’Ambigu Comique, and the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin 
 are situated in this boulevard. The last of these was burned 
 by the Communists, 25th May, 1871, but its restoration was com¬ 
 pleted in 1873. 
 
 The Porte St. Martin, a triumphal arch, 57 ft. in height, 
 57 ft. in breadth, and 14 ft. in thickness, was erected by the 
 
.1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 65 
 
 city in honour of Louis XIV. in 1674. It is pierced by one large 
 and two small archways. The inscriptions and reliefs commemo¬ 
 rate the victories of that monarch; on the S. side are represented 
 the double capture of Besan<;on and the Franche-Comtd, and the 
 defeat of the Triple Alliance (Germans, Spaniards, and Dutch); 
 on the N. the taking of Limbourg and the victory over the Ger¬ 
 mans. In 1814 the German and Russian armies entered Paris 
 by the Barriere de Pantin and the Rue du Faubourg St. Martin, 
 and passed through the Porte St. Martin and the Boulevards to 
 the Place de la Concorde (p. 119). 
 
 One of the most formidable barricades of the Communists was 
 constructed at this point, so as to command the whole Boulevard, 
 but was taken after a desperate struggle by the government troops 
 on 25th May, 1871. The damage done to the arch on the occasion 
 has since been repaired. This neighbourhood was also the scene 
 of one of the most brutal outrages committed by the Communists. On 
 25th May, 1871, a number of the insurgents entered the house of 
 the restaurateur Deffieux, near the Porte St. Martin, and after 
 having taken possession of the cellar and its contents, pro¬ 
 ceeded to occupy the house with the view of tiring on the troops 
 from the windows. The terrified inmates entreated them to desist 
 from their purpose, and one of them rashly struck one of the 
 intruders. This formed the signal for a general massacre. The 
 insurgents, maddened with rage and despair, pursued and piti¬ 
 lessly murdered every man, woman, and child whom they 
 found in the building, about thirty in all. They then set fire 
 to the premises, which together with the adjoining houses and 
 the The'atre de la Porte St. Martin, were soon reduced to a heap 
 of smouldering ruins. 
 
 The handsome streets, which diverge here to the r. and 1.. 
 intersecting Paris from N. to S., are the Boulevard de Sebastopol 
 and the Boulevard de Strasbourg (comp. p. 136). 
 
 The Porte St. Denis, another triumphal arch, was erected by 
 the city, shortly before the Porte St. Martin, to commemorate the 
 victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and the district of the Lower 
 Rhine. It is 76 ft. in height, 77 ft. in width, and 16 ft. only in 
 thickness, and is of more symmetrical proportions than the Porte 
 St. Martin. The single archway is 50 ft. in height and 26 ft. in 
 width. The piers are adorned with obelisks in relief covered with 
 military trophies. The frieze on each side bears the simple in¬ 
 scription ‘Ludovico Magno ". At the foot of the obelisks of the 
 principal facade is represented, on the right, vanquished Holland 
 with a dead lion, and on the left the river-god of the Rhine. 
 The bas-relief above the archway on the same side represents 
 the passage of the Rhine by Louis XIV. at Tolhuis below Emmerich, 
 on 12th June, 1652, when the river had been rendered unusually 
 shallow by a long drought. The bas-relief on the other side 
 BajDEKEK. Paris. 4th Edition. 5 
 
66 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 commemorates the capture of Maestricht. Another barricade of 
 the Communists erected here was stormed by the government 
 troops on the same day as that of the Porte St. Martin. 
 
 In July, 1830 both these arches were also the scene of sangui¬ 
 nary conflicts; and in June, 1848, the first engagement between 
 the military and the insurgents took place here. 
 
 As we proceed westwards the streets become more thronged, 
 and the shops more handsomely constructed and richly stocked. 
 To the Boulevard St. Denis succeeds the Boulevard Bonne Nou- 
 velle. No. 20, on the r., is the Palais Bonne Nouvelle , or ‘Mena- 
 gere’ bazaar (p. 30). At the end of the Rue Hauteville, at the be¬ 
 ginning of which the Theatre du Gymnase is situated, is seen 
 the church of St. Vincent de Paul in the distance. 
 
 Beyond the theatre begins the Boulevard Poissonni'ere. On the 
 r., No. 14, is the Dock du Carnpement , an admirable emporium of 
 ‘articles de voyage’ (p. 31). No. 30 is the beautiful shop of Bar- 
 bedienne and Co., dealers in bronzes. On the 1. are the showy 
 ready-made garments sold by the ‘Prophete' ; then No. 27, the 
 Bazar de l’Industrie ; and on the same side opens the Rue Mont¬ 
 martre , where the extensive warerooms of the ‘ Ville de Paris' 
 (p. 33) are situated. In February, 1848, the Rue du Faubourg 
 Montmartre , at its junction with the Boulevards, was closed by 
 a strong barricade which repelled several attacks of the municipal 
 guard, and it was again the scene of a fierce struggle between 
 the insurgents and the government troops on 23rd May, 1871, 
 when the latter were pressing forward to gain possession of the 
 height of Montmartre. 
 
 The cafes and restaurants become more numerous in the Boule¬ 
 vard Montmartre , and the S. side of the street begins to present 
 a tempting array of shops. No. 3, on the I. side is the Hotel Bore , 
 beyond which is the Theatre des Varietes (p. 46), and on the same 
 side opens the Rue Vivienne. No. 19 is the shop of Goupil et C(e, 
 the dealers in engravings. On the same side is the Passaye des 
 Panoramas, and opposite to it the Passage Jouffroy, two arcades 
 with handsome shops, and often crowded with foot-passengers, 
 particularly towards evening, when the numerous restaurants in 
 the neighbourhood form an additional attraction. 
 
 IV. The Bourse. 
 
 Before entering the Boulevard des Italiens, we shall make a 
 short digression to the 1. by the Rue Vivienne to the Place de 
 la Bourse, in the centre of which rises the ::: Boursc, or Exchange, 
 a handsome building in the Greek style, surrounded by a colonnade 
 of 64 Corinthian pillars, being an imitation of the temple of Jupiter 
 Tonans at Rome. Length 75 yds., width 45 yds., height 100 ft.; 
 columns 33 ft. high, and 3 1 / 2 ft. thick. At the corners stand four 
 statues emblematical respectively of Commerce by Dumont, Com- 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 67 
 
 mercial Equity by Buret , *Industry by Pradier , and Agriculture 
 by Seurre. The whole editice is enclosed by a railing, and approach¬ 
 ed by a flight of sixteen steps at each end. The clock of the 
 Bourse gives the normal Parisian time, from which all the other 
 clocks in the city are regulated. 
 
 The hall of the Bourse, which is 40 yds. in length, 27 yds. in 
 width, and 81 ft. in height, is opened for business at 12 o’clock 
 (sticks and umbrellas may be left at the cloak-room, 10 c.), 
 but visitors are admitted to the galleries from 9 to 6 o’clock. 
 Numerous vehicles, chiefly private carriages, soon drive up, and 
 the money-seeking throng hurries into the building. The par¬ 
 quet !, at the end of the hall, is a railed-off space which the 
 sworn brokers, or agents de change, alone are privileged to enter. 
 In the centre of this part of the hall is the corbeitle, a circular, 
 railed-off space, round which they congregate, making their offers 
 in loud tones. Various groups in different parts of the hall, 
 but especially near the parquet, are occupied in taking notes, 
 or concluding sales or purchases, the prices being regulated by 
 the transactions going on in the parquet, while other persons 
 are seen handing instructions to the brokers within the parquet. 
 
 The tumultuous scene is best surveyed from the gallery, to 
 which the S. side-entrance leads. The deafening noise, the 
 shouting, the excited gestures of the speculators, and the eager 
 cupidity depicted in their features, produce a most unpleasant im¬ 
 pression on the mind of the neutral spectator. Amidst the Babel 
 of tongues almost the only intelligible words are, l Je donne, je 
 prends, je vends!’ 
 
 The visitor should not omit to observe the ‘grisailles’ on the 
 vaulting by Abel de Pujol and Meynier , which are so skilfully ex¬ 
 ecuted as to resemble bas-reliefs. They represent the Inaugu¬ 
 ration of the Bourse by Charles X., France receiving tribute from 
 every part of the globe, the Union of commerce with the arts and 
 sciences, and the Principal towns in France. 
 
 At 3 o’clock the business of the stock-exchange terminates, 
 the brokers assemble and note the prices realised in their last 
 transactions, and in accordance with these they adjust the 
 share list for the day, which is then immediately printed and 
 issued. 
 
 The hall remains open from 3 to 6 o’clock for the transaction 
 of other mercantile business. The Tribunal de Commerce for¬ 
 merly sat in one of the upper apartments, but now has a special 
 building of its own opposite the Palais de justice (p. 182). 
 
 The Rue Vivienne and the parallel Rue Richelieu, a little 
 further to the \V., are busy streets with very thriving shops. One 
 of the largest of these, the ‘Villes de France’, has recently been 
 converted into a concert and ball-room named Frascati (p. 51). 
 
 5* 
 
68 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 We now return to the Boulevards. The large house to the r., 
 at the corner of the Rue de Richelieu, was once the notorious 
 gambling-house, known as the Frascati. 
 
 V. Boulevards des Italiens et des Capucines. 
 
 JVonvel Optra. 
 
 The Boulevard des Italiens, the most frequented and fashion¬ 
 able of all, consists almost exclusively of hotels, cafes, and the 
 choicest and most expensive shops. The upper floors of several 
 of the houses are occupied by private clubs. 
 
 Before and after the exchange hours, petty stockbrokers fre¬ 
 quently assemble at the Passage de lOpera, on the r. side of the 
 boulevard, where they exhibit the same eager haste and excitement 
 as in the hall of the Bourse. These groups often obstruct the 
 pavement and are dispersed by the police, but the offenders im¬ 
 mediately re-assemble in knots a few paces farther off. 
 
 The old Opera House, which was situated at the N. end of 
 this passage, was entirely burned down in Oct., 1873. On this 
 side of the boulevard are the richly stocked fancy and leather ware¬ 
 house of Klein (p. 34), the photograph gallery of Disderi, and the 
 Theatre Cleverman , before the Passage de l’Opera is reached; and 
 beyond it the cafe's und restaurants Riche, the Maison Doree, Tor- 
 toni, and Bignon (p. 18). On the S. side of the street are the Cafe 
 Cardinal, the Passage des Princes, and the Cafe du Grand Balcon 
 (No. 11, first floor), behind which is the Opera Comique; then 
 the Cafe Anglais (p. 18), the Theatre Office (p. 43), the bazaar of 
 the Galeries de Fer (p. 31), and the Rue de Choiseul, leading to 
 the Passage of that name and the Theatre Italien. Next are the 
 Cafe du Helder (p. 18) and the Pavilion de Hanovre, where the 
 warerooms of the ‘Orfe'vrerie Christophle’ are situated. 
 
 The Rue Laffitte, Rue Taitbout , and particularly the Rue de 
 la Chaussee d'Antin, which diverge from the Boulevard des Italiens 
 on the N. side, are chiefly inhabited by wealthy bankers, moneyed 
 men, eminent savants, and artists of the highest class. At 
 No. 17 Rue Laffitte, now the residence of Baron James Roth¬ 
 schild, Napoleon 111. was born on 20th Aug., 1808. At the N. end 
 of this street rises the church of Notre Dame de Lorette (p. 151). 
 
 The Boulevard des Capucines begins beyond the Rue de la 
 Chaussee d'Antin, a street diverging on the r., at the end of 
 which the church of La Trinitd (p. 150) is visible. On the r., at 
 the corner, is the Theatre du Vaudeville, completed in 1869 (p. 
 46). On the same side, a few paces farther, in an open space 
 opposite the Rue de la Paix, rises the sumptuous — 
 
 *Nouvel Opera, or New Opera House (PL, red, 5). This im¬ 
 posing edifice, designed by Gamier, and begun in 1861, was 
 nearly completed when the Franco-Prussian war broke out in 1870. 
 The works have been resumed with increased energy since the de- 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 69 
 
 struction of the Old Opera House in 1873 , and it is expected that 
 the building will be opened to the public in 1875. It is probably 
 the largest theatre in the world, covering an area of 13,000 sq.yds., 
 and will form a magnificent termination to the avenue now in course 
 of construction from this point to the Theatre Franfais, near the 
 Louvre. The total cost of the building is estimated at 46,500,000 
 fr.. or 1,860,000 l. 
 
 The principal facade consists in the first place of a lower storey 
 pierced with seven arcades, against the piers of which are placed four 
 groups of sculpture and four statues. These are, beginning on the 
 left, Music by Guillaume , Lyric Poetry by Jouffroy, Idyllic Poetry by 
 Ancelin, the Cantata by Chapus, Fable by Dubois and Vatrinelles , 
 Elegy by Falguieres, Tragedy by Perraud , and Dance by Carpeaux. 
 Above the statues are medallions ofCimarosa, Haydn, Pergolese, and 
 Bach. On the first floor is a gallery with aCorinthian colonnade, com¬ 
 posed of sixteen monolith columns in stone, arranged in pairs, 33 ft. 
 in height, and fourteen smaller columns in veined marble, also mono¬ 
 liths, with gilded capitals. The seven bays have balconies in green 
 marble from Sweden. Above the colonnade, on slabs of coloured 
 marble, are medallion busts of great composers in gilded bronze. 
 This facade terminates in an attic, richly sculptured and embellished 
 with gilded masks. From the two corners of the building project 
 circular frontons surmounted with colossal gilded groups by Gumery, 
 representing Lyric Poetry, with the Muses on one side and Fame 
 on the other. In the centre of the building rises a low dome, and be¬ 
 hind it a huge triangular pediment above the stage, crowned with 
 an Apollo in the middle, by Millet , and two Pegasi at the sides, by 
 Lequesne. The lateral facades also have projecting wings at each 
 end and a pavilion in the centre, that on the right side of the grand 
 facade having a double carriage-approach. which was to have been 
 the ‘Pavilion de l’Empereur’. In order to obtain an accurate idea of 
 the vast dimensions and gorgeous, though not always tasteful de¬ 
 coration of the edifice, the traveller should walk round the whole 
 of it, inspecting each facade in turn. The entrance at the back is 
 somewhat dwarfed by the huge mass of the pediment. 
 
 The Interior , to which the public are not at present admitted, 
 will when completed accord in style with the exterior. The lobby is 
 60 yds. in length, 13 yds. in width, and 56 ft. in height, and is to 
 be embellished with twelve gilded lustres and two large chimney- 
 pieces borne by Caryatides in coloured marble; but its chief de¬ 
 coration will be the immense mural paintings of Baudry, the most 
 extensive works of the kind which have been undertaken since the 
 days of Raphael and Michael Angelo. In large medallions above the 
 doors and mirrors are groups of children with musical instruments. 
 The ten vaulted spaces above the cornice contain an imposing cycle 
 of lyric and choregic scenes. Pastoral music is represented by 
 Apollo and Marsyas, Orpheus and Eurydice, and the Judgment of 
 
70 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 Paris ; military music, by Tyrtaeus urging the Spartans to battle; sa¬ 
 cred music, by Saul and David and the Dream of St. Cecilia; the 
 dancing of women, by Salome dancing before Herod, and Orpheus 
 torn to pieces by Bacchantes; and the dancing of men, by the Cory- 
 bautes and Jupiter. On the pendentives between these groups are 
 colossal figures, on a gold ground, of Clio, the muse of history, Eu¬ 
 terpe, of music, Thalia, of comedy, *Melpomene, of tragedy, Terpsi¬ 
 chore, of dancing, Erato, of erotic poetry, Polyhymnia, of sacred 
 hymn, and Calliope, of epic poetry. The grave and philoso¬ 
 phical Urania, the Muse of astronomy, has been appropriately ex¬ 
 cluded. This cycle of paintings is completed by two large compo¬ 
 sitions on the vaulting at the ends, termed Ancient Parnassus and 
 Modern Parnassus respectively. These scenes lead up to the im¬ 
 posing ceiling-paintings, the principal part of the whole scheme of 
 decoration. On one side is Comedy, escorted by Satire, Wit, and 
 Love; on the other , Tragedy, accompanied by Fury, Compassion, 
 and Terror; between these, and enclosed in a rich architectural 
 framework, is the culminating tableau, representing Glory and 
 Poetry soaring aloft on winged steeds, with Harmony and Melody 
 hovering above them. 
 
 The interior of the theatre itself will be decorated with simi¬ 
 lar magnificence. The ceiling-paintings by Lenepveu, executed 
 on copper attached to the vaulting, form a circular series, 132 ft. 
 in length, of allegorical groups illustrative of the history of the 
 Drama; in the midst appears the chariot of Apollo borne by a wave 
 of light which illumines the whole composition and produces some 
 striking effects of light and shade. The theatre will contain room 
 for 2350 spectators, to each of whom a larger space is allotted 
 than in the older theatres. The stage is 196 ft. in height, 178 ft. 
 in width, and 74ft. in depth. At the back of the stage, and commu¬ 
 nicating with it is the ball-room, gorgeously decorated by Boulan¬ 
 ger , at the end of which is to be placed a mirror from St. Gobain, 
 22 1 /-2 ft. in width, and 32'/2 ft. in height, the largest ever made. 
 
 The Nouvel-Opdra narrowly escaped destruction in May, 1871, 
 when it was used by the Communists as a magazine for gunpowder 
 and other munitions of war. Had it been set on fire, like so 
 many of the other public buildings, the edifice itself and the sur¬ 
 rounding houses would inevitably have been destroyed. Fortunately 
 it sustained no serious damage. 
 
 Adjoining the Nouvel-Opera is the Grand-Hotel (p. 4), with 
 the Cafe de LaPaix, and Martinet's shop of engravings (p. 32), 
 beyond which is the Rue Scribe with the hotel of that name and 
 the theatre of the Athenee. Crossing the street and returning to¬ 
 wards the Place de l’Opera, we first observe Giroux's magnificent 
 emporium of toys and bronzes (p. 31), then the gorgeous haber¬ 
 dashery warerooms of the Compagnie Lyonnaise (p. 33), the Bazar 
 de Voyage (p. 31), and many other tempting shops. 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 71 
 
 VI. The Vendome Column. 
 
 The Rue de la Paix, which diverges to the S. from the Bou¬ 
 levard des Capucines, one of the handsomest streets in Paris, 
 contains the residences of many of the wealthiest inhabitants, 
 and some of the best shops in the city. It terminates in the 
 octagonal Place Vendome , partly constructed by the celebrated ar¬ 
 chitect Mansart [1645—1708), in the centre of which rises the 
 Colonne Vendome, a monument in imitation of Trajan’s column at 
 Rome, 144 ft. in height and 13 ft. in diameter. It was erected 
 by Napoleon 1. in 1806—1810 to commemorate his victories over 
 the Russians and Austrians in 1805, as the inscription records. 
 It is constructed of masonry, encrusted witli plates of bronze form¬ 
 ing a spiral nearly 300 yds. in length, on which are represented 
 the most memorable scenes of the campaign of 1805, from the break¬ 
 ing up of the camp at Boulogne down to the Battle of Austerlitz. 
 The figures are about 3 ft. in height, many of which faithfully re¬ 
 present the features, equipment, and costume of the soldiers of 
 that period. The metal of 1200 Russian and Austrian cannons 
 was employed in the construction of the column. It was taken 
 down by the Communists in May, 1871, but is now in process of 
 being re-erected, the fragments having been preserved. 
 
 The reliefs of the pedestal represent the uniforms and wea¬ 
 pons of the conquered armies. At the corners are four eagles 
 bearing garlands. A handsome bronze door on the S. side leads 
 to the stair which ascends to the summit. Over the door is the La¬ 
 tin dedication by Napoleon 1. ‘of this monument, constructed of 
 captured metal, to the glory of the great army’. A tolerable 
 model of the column may be seen at the Hotel des Monnaies 
 
 (p. 212). 
 
 The statue of Napoleon which occupied the summit of the 
 column was taken down by the Royalists in 1814, the metal 
 being employed in casting the equestrian statue of Henri IV. 
 on the Pont Neuf (p. 184), and was replaced by a monster 
 fleur-de-lis surmounted by a large white flag. In 1831, Louis 
 Philippe caused a new statue of the emperor, cast with the 
 metal of guns captured at Algiers, to be placed on the summit. 
 This was removed in 1863 to the Avenue de Neuilly, and replaced 
 by a statue of the emperor in his imperial robes, similar to the 
 original statue. The new statue in its turn shared the fate of the 
 column in 1871, while the one in the Avenue de Neuilly was 
 thrown by the insurgents into the Seine near the Pont de Cour- 
 bevoie. 
 
 The Hotel du Rliin (p. 4), on the S. side of the Place, 
 was the residence of Napoleon 111. when acting as deputy to the 
 National Assembly from September to December, 1848. On 
 23rd May, 1871, the Versailles troops captured a barricade in the 
 
72 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 Rue Castiglione by passing through this hotel and attacking the 
 insurgents in the rear. M. Mare'chal, the proprietor of the hotel, 
 is said to have offered the Commune 500,000 fr. if they would 
 spare the Vendome Column. The reply was, ‘Donnez un million, 
 et Von verra!’ M. Mardchal, it need hardly be said, was dissatis¬ 
 fied with this answer, and kept his money. 
 
 VII. Boulevard et Eglise de la Madeleine. 
 
 Rue Rot/ale. St. Roch. 
 
 Returning to the Rue de la Paix and following the Rue Neuve 
 des Capucines , the first street to the 1., we soon reach the 
 Boulevard de la Madeleine. The new buildings to the r., at the 
 corner of the Boulevard des Capucines, occupy the site of the 
 Hotel du Ministere des Affaires Etrangferes, which was the resi¬ 
 dence of Guizot, when prime minister, in'February, 1848, 
 but was taken down in 1853. On the night of 23rd February, 
 1848, shots fired from a window of this edifice, owing, as it was 
 alleged, to a ‘misunderstanding,’ were the precursor of the events 
 which levelled the ‘July Monarchy.’ 
 
 Most of the large houses in the Boulevard de la Madeleine, 
 the N. side of which is named Rue Basse du Rempart , were 
 erected in 1855—56. This boulevard terminates at the "YV. end 
 in the spacious Place de la Madeleine , where a Flower-Market of 
 some importance is held on Tuesdays and Fridays (p. 37). Sev¬ 
 eral cab-stands and omnibus offices are situated here. 
 
 *La Madeleine (PL, red, 5), or the Church of St. Mary Mag¬ 
 dalene (open to visitors after 1 o’clock), admirably situated at the 
 W. end of the Grands Boulevards, and not far from the Place de 
 la Concorde, was affected during its construction by all the vi¬ 
 cissitudes of the history of modern France. The foundations were 
 laid in 1764; but the revolution found the edifice uncompleted, 
 and the works were suspended. By a decree dated at Posen on 
 2nd Dec., 1806, Napoleon commanded the building to be completed 
 and converted into a ‘Temple of Glory’, with the inscription: 
 l L'empereur Napoleon aux soldats de la grande armeeV The 5th 
 article of the decree was to the following effect: ‘Tous les ans, aux 
 anniversaires des batailles d’Austerlitz et d’le'na, le monument sera 
 illumine', et il sera donne un concert pre'cddd d’un discours sur 
 les vertus ndeessaires au soldat, et d’un eloge de ceux qui pe'rirent 
 sur le champ de bataille dans ces journdes memorables. Dans 
 les discours et odes il est expresse'ment ddfendu de faire mention 
 de l’empereur.’ 
 
 The object of the edifice was altered by Louis XVIII., 
 who proposed to convert the ‘Temple of Glory’ into an expia¬ 
 tory church to the memory of Louis XVI., Louis XVII., Marie 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 73 
 
 Antoinette, and Madame Elizabeth (p. 120). The construction of 
 the church was again interrupted by the revolution of July, 1830, 
 and was not finally completed till 1842. The sum expended 
 on it amounted to upwards of 14 million francs (590,000 {.). 
 
 In May, 1871, the insurgents had constructed one of their 
 most formidable barricades across the Rue Royale, opposite, and 
 within a short distance of the Madeleine. The appalling scene 
 enacted here on 22nd and 23rd May baffles description. The 
 houses in the Rue Royale which escaped destruction by fire were 
 literally riddled with shells and bullets, but the church, owing to 
 its massive construction, suffered comparatively little. On the 23rd 
 three hundred insurgents, driven from the barricade, sought refuge 
 in the sacred edifice; but the troops soon forced an entrance, and 
 suffered not one of their victims to escape alive. 
 
 This majestic structure stands in an open space, upon a 
 basement about 20 ft. in height. Its form is that of a Greek 
 temple, 350 ft. in length, and 147 ft. in breadth, surrounded by 
 Corinthian columns 52 ft. in height, sixteen of them supporting 
 the pediment of the S. facade, fifteen being ranged along each 
 side, and eight forming the N. portico. 
 
 The niches in the wall of the S. facade contain thirty-four 
 statues of saints specially revered in France, beginning on the r. 
 with the Archangel Gabriel, and terminating on the 1. with the 
 Archangel Michael, all by modern sculptors. 
 
 The inscription on the facade is: I). O. M. sub invoc. S. M. 
 Maydalenae. (To the Almighty God, through the invocation of 
 St. Mary Magdalene.) 
 
 The tympanum contains a high relief of vast dimensions, by 
 Lemaire, representing the Last Judgment, 125 ft. in length, and 
 23 ft. in height. The figure of the Saviour in the centre is 18 ft. 
 high. On his right are the elect and the angel who has just 
 sounded the last trumpet; on his left the damned, with Mary 
 Magdalene interceding for them. 
 
 The church is approached by a flight of 28 steps, occupying 
 the entire breadth of the edifice. The bronze *Doors, 35 ft. 
 in height and 16 ft. in breadth, are adorned with illustrations of 
 the Ten Commandments, designed by Triquetti. 
 
 The interior, the walls and floor of which are of marble, forms 
 a single spacious hall, lighted by cupolas, and sumptuously 
 gilded and decorated with paintings. The Chupelle des Muriayes, 
 to the r. of the entrance, contains a group in marble by Pradier, 
 representing the nuptials of the Virgin; the Chupelle des Fonts, 
 or Baptistery, to the 1., is adorned with a group, by Rude, repre¬ 
 senting the Baptism of Christ. These fine sculptures are in¬ 
 sufficiently lighted. The statues of the Apostles in the niches 
 of the vaulting are by the same sculptors and by Foyatier. 
 
74 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 The nave is divided by columns arranged in pairs into three 
 bays, in which there are six chapels, three on each side, decorated 
 with statues of the different saints to whom the chapels are de¬ 
 dicated. The paintings in the semicircular spaces above these 
 chapels represent scenes from the life of Mary Magdalene. 
 
 Right Side. 1st Chapel: Ste. Amelie, by Bra; Mary Mag¬ 
 dalene’s conversion, by Scknetz. 2nd Chapel: The Saviour, by 
 Buret ; Mary Magdalene at the foot of the cross, by Bouchot. 3rd 
 Chapel: Ste. Clotilde, by Barye\ Mary Magdalene in the wilderness 
 praying with angels, by Abel de Pujol (d. 1861). 
 
 Left Side. 1st Chapel: St. Vincent de Paul, by Raggi ; 
 Supper of Bethany, and Magdalene washing the feet of Christ, 
 by Couder. 2nd Chapel: The Virgin, by Seurre; Angel announcing 
 the Resurrection to Magdalene, by Coignet. 3rd Chapel: St. Augustin, 
 by Etex; Death of Magdalene, by Signol. 
 
 The *High Altar is surmounted by an admirable group in 
 marble by Marochetti, executed at a cost of 150,000 fr., represent¬ 
 ing the ‘Assumption of Mary Magdalene’, who is being borne 
 into Paradise by two angels. Beyond it, the semicircular ceiling 
 of the choir is adorned with a fine fresco by Ziegler , represent¬ 
 ing the History of Christianity in several groups, the figures in 
 the foreground being 10 ft. in height. In the centre is Christ, and 
 before him is Mary Magdalene, humble and penitent, but already 
 forgiven. On the r. of Christ are symbolised the principal events 
 relating to Christianity in the East from the earliest period down 
 to the Crusades and modern times. Among other figures may be 
 mentioned that of St. Louis in front of the group beside the 
 Magdalene, Godfrey de Bouillon with the oriflamme, Richard 
 Coeur de Lion, the Doge Dandolo and others; also a scene from 
 the Grecian war of emancipation. To the 1. of Christ are scenes 
 illustrating the progress of Christianity in the West, comprising the 
 Martyrs, the Wandering Jew, Clovis; Charlemagne, forming a com¬ 
 panion to St. Louis on the opposite side; the ambassador of Ha- 
 roun-el-Rashid, Pope Alexander III. laying the first stone of Notre 
 Dame (1163), the Maid of Orleans, Dante, Raphael, Michael Angelo, 
 Louis XIII., and Richelieu ; in the centre, Henri IV.; and finally 
 Napoleon I. crowned by Pope Pius VII. 
 
 Before leaving the church the visitor should observe the very 
 handsome Benitiers, or basins for holy water, by Moyne. 
 
 When the principal door and gate are closed, access may 
 be obtained by the entrances on the E. or W. side of the church. 
 
 The prolongation of the Boulevards towards the N. W., beyond 
 the Madeleine , is formed by the Boulevard Malesherbes, a street 
 3 / 4 M. in length, completed in 1861. It leads direct to the Parc 
 de Monceaux (p. 133) and is crossed by the Boulevard Haussmann. 
 About halfway to the park rises the new church of St. Augustin 
 
 (p. 150). 
 
1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 75 
 
 The broad but short Rue Royale , opposite the facade of the 
 Madeleine, leads to the Place de la Concorde (p. 119). The last 
 house on the 1. is the Ministere de la Marine. 
 
 Frightful havoc was committed in this street by the Commu¬ 
 nists on ‘22nd May, 1871. These miscreants, whose chief object, as 
 they gradually retreated before the government troops, was to wreak 
 their revenge on the wealthier portion of the community, placed a 
 quantity of petroleum and other combustibles in several of the houses 
 here and in the Rue St. Honore, and set them on fire in spite of 
 the entreaties of the inmates. The houses Nos. 15—25 Rue Royale, 
 on the W. side, and several houses in the Rue du Faubourg 
 St. Honors, at its junction with the Rue Royale were entirely 
 destroyed. The loss of property in this locality alone was enormous. 
 Most of the inmates happily escaped with the aid of the troops 
 who came to their succour. Seven unfortunate persons, however, 
 who had sought refuge in the cellar of a house at the entrance 
 to the Faubourg St. Honore, were buried alive beneath the falling 
 ruins, while in a neighbouring ‘maison d'accouchement' no fewer 
 than twenty-two of the helpless patients are believed to have 
 perished in the flames. Among the houses destroyed here may 
 be mentioned the Hotel de la Rue Royale, and Weber’s Tavern, 
 both of which have since been restored. This locality, too, 
 was the scene of a fiendish act committed by the firemen in 
 the pay of the Commune, who filled their engines with petro¬ 
 leum and poured vast quantities of it into the burning houses. 
 Many of them were detected by the troops in the very act, and 
 of course immediately shot. One of the most formidable barri¬ 
 cades of the insurgents on that occasion was constructed across 
 the Rue Royale, and defended by several cannon and mitrailleuses, 
 with which they completely commanded the Place de la Concorde. 
 These outrages were committed by them as soon as they found 
 this position untenable. 
 
 The first street to the 1. in descending from the Madeleine to 
 the Place de la Concorde is the Rue St. Honord. To the r. in this 
 street, at the corner of the Rue de Luxembourg, rises the Church 
 of the Assumption , the peristyle and dome of which are an imitation 
 of the Pantheon at Rome. Further on, we cross the Rue Castigli- 
 one, near the Vendome Column (p. 71), beyond which we reach 
 the Church of St. Roch on the 1., not far from the garden and palace 
 of the Tuileries. 
 
 St. Roch (PI., white, 5), a church erected in 1653—1740 in 
 the degraded style of that epoch, possesses a portal in the Corinthi¬ 
 an and Doric styles. On the broad flight of steps by which the 
 church is approached, on the 13th of Vende'miaire, in the 4th year 
 
76 
 
 1. BOULEVARDS. 
 
 (3rd Oct., 1795), Bonaparte placed the cannons which he fired upon 
 the Royalists who were advancing against the Convention, and thus 
 checked the progress of the counter-revolution. The church was 
 restored in 1865. 
 
 The interior possesses little worthy of note. The ceilings of 
 the choir and transept are adorned with painting and gilding. The 
 4th chapel to the 1. contains a monument to the memory of the 
 Abbd de TEpee, the celebrated teacher of the deaf and dumb. It 
 consists of the extremity of a sarcophagus with the alphabet repre¬ 
 sented on it by signs. Above it is a kind of pedestal with a bust 
 of the Abbd, to whom two children are gratefully raising their 
 eyes. Inscription : Viro admodum mirabili, sacerdoti de VEpee, 
 qui fecit exemplo Salvatoris mutos loqui, cives Galliae hoc monu- 
 mentum dedicarunt. Natus an. 1742, mortuus an. 1789. Adja¬ 
 cent to the monument is a black marble slab with the inscription: 
 A l'Abbe de VEpee Les sourds-muets suedois reconnaissants (comp. 
 
 p. 208). 
 
 The stucco reliefs with which the chapels of the choir are adorned 
 represent the Passion. The third of these chapels on the 1. con¬ 
 tains a picture by A. Scheffer, representing St. Francis of Sales 
 conducting a weary wanderer through the snow. 
 
 At the back of the choir is a large detached chapel, forming a 
 kind of second sanctuary, beyond which there are two others. The 
 first of these three, that of the Virgin, contains a dome painted ‘al 
 fresco’, representing the Assumption, and several tolerable oil paint¬ 
 ings. To the 1., Christ driving the money-changers out of the 
 Temple, by Thomas, 1822; to the r., Raising of the daughter of 
 Jairus, by Delorme, 1817. In the interior, the Triumph of Morde- 
 cai, by Jouvenet; Jesus blessing children, by Vien; Cure of the 
 possessed, by Doyen. 
 
 The stained glass of the second chapel represents 1. St. Denis 
 the Areopagite and (r.) Mgr. Affre, the archbishop who was killed at 
 the barricades (p. 62). 
 
 The S. chapels contain several monuments of eminent persons. 
 In the first are those of the learned Maupertuis (d. 1759), by 
 d’Huez; of Cardinal Dubois (d. 1729), minister of the Regent Or¬ 
 leans, and participant in his shameless orgies (p. 77), by Coustou; 
 and of Henri de Lorraine, Count d’Harcourt (d. 1666), with a bust 
 of the painter Mignard (d. 1695) on the r., and another of the 
 landscape gardener Le Notre (d. 1700) on the 1. — The second 
 chapel contains the monument of the Due de Crequi (d. 1687), 
 Marshal of France under Louis XIV., by Coysevox and Coustou. 
 
 The names of the celebrated persons interred in St. Roch are 
 inscribed on one of the pillars under the organ. On the other is a 
 medallion of the illustrious poet Pierre Corneille, who died in the 
 parish of St. Roch in 1684. 
 
2. PALAIS ROYAL. 
 
 77 
 
 St. Roch is said to be the most richly endowed church in Paris. 
 Festivals are celebrated here with the utmost pomp , and the music 
 is admirable. 
 
 Continuing to follow the Rue St. Honore', we soon reach the 
 Place du Theatre Fran^ais, which is now in course of being em¬ 
 bellished with two fountains, and from which a new avenue is to 
 lead to the Nouvel-Ope'ra (p. 68). On the r. in the Rue St. Ho- 
 nor6 are the cafes de I’Univers, de la Regence, and de Rohan. We 
 are now close to the Tuileries (p. 113), the Louvre ( p. 81), and 
 the Palais Royal. 
 
 2. The Palais Royal. 
 
 Place and Notre Dame des Victoires. 
 
 In 1629—1636 Cardinal Richelieu caused a palace to be erected 
 for himself opposite the Louvre, and named it the Palais Car¬ 
 dinal. He presented it to Louis XIII., and it was afterwards occu¬ 
 pied by Anne of Austria, widow of that monarch , with her two 
 sons Louis XIV. and Philip of Orleans, then in their minority. The 
 building was thenceforward called the Palais Royal. 
 
 It was then presented by Louis XIV. to his brother the Duke 
 of Orleans, by whose son the Regent, Duke Philip of Orleans 
 (d. 1723), it was subsequently occupied. It was here that the 
 licentious orgies which disgraced the regency of the latter took 
 place. The Due de St. Simon, an eyewitness of these scenes, 
 thus describes them : — 
 
 ‘Les soupers du rtSgent ^taient toujours avec des compagnies fort etran 
 geres, avec ses maitresses, quelquefois des lilies de l’Opera, souvent avec la 
 duchesse de Berry (sa fille), quelques dames de moyenne vertu, et quelques 
 gens sans nom, mais brillants par leur esprit ct leur debauche. On buvait 
 beaucoup et du meilleur vin, on s’dchauffait, on disait des ordures a gorge 
 ddployde, des impidtds a qui mieux mieux, et quand on avait fait du bruit 
 et qu'on dtait bien ivre, on allait se coucher.' 
 
 The Palais Royal remained in the possession of the Orleans 
 family. Philippe Egalite (p. 120), who was beheaded in 1793, 
 grandson of the regent, led a scarcely less riotous and extra¬ 
 vagant life than his grandfather. In order to replenish his ex¬ 
 hausted coffers, he caused the whole garden to be surrounded with 
 houses which he let to shopkeepers and others, and thus materially 
 improved his revenues. 
 
 Many of the upper apartments of these buildings were formerly 
 devoted to play, while the cafes on the ground floor became a fa¬ 
 vourite rendezvous of democrats and malcontents. It was here that 
 Camille Desmoulins, one of the most prominent republican ring¬ 
 leaders, called the populace to arms on 12th July, 1789, and 
 assumed the green cockade which from that day became the distinct¬ 
 ive badge of the patriots; and his plans were so well concerted 
 
78 
 
 2. PALAIS ROYAL. 
 
 that on the following day he organised a ‘Garde Nationale’, led the 
 way to the Bastille (p. 61), and captured it on the 14th. 
 
 After these events the Building was called the Palais Egalite, 
 and subsequently, when Napoleon assembled the Tribunate here 
 in 1801—1807. the Palais du Tribunat. From 1807 to 1814 the 
 palace was unoccupied; but in 1815, during the ‘hundred days’, 
 it was the residence of Lucien Bonaparte. 
 
 On the Restoration of the Bourbons in 1815 the Orleans family 
 again came into possession of the Palais Royal, and it was occupied 
 by Louis Philippe until 1830, when he ascended the throne. 
 Shortly before the outbreak of the revolution of July, he gave 
 a sumptuous ball here in honour of the Neapolitan notabilities 
 then visiting Paris, which gave rise to Salvandy’s famous witticism: 
 ‘Nous dansons sur un volcan. 
 
 On 24th February, 1848, the mob destroyed the royal apart¬ 
 ments in the most barbarous manner. Notwithstanding the 
 request, ‘ Respectez les tableaux', which some well-meaning hand 
 had written on the walls, the pictures generally shared the same 
 fate as the other objects of value. The fact, that the broken glass 
 and porcelain collected in the palace and publicly sold on 14th Feb., 
 1850, weighed upwards of 25 tons, may serve to convey an idea of 
 the extent of the devastation. After this the palace was termed 
 the Palais National. Under Napoleon III. it resumed its original 
 name. 
 
 The apartments in the S. wing of the Palais Royal, opposite 
 the Louvre, were occupied down to the outbreak of the war in 
 1870 by Prince Napoleon, cousin of the ex-emperor and son of 
 Jerome Bonaparte. 
 
 On 22nd May, 1871, the Communists set the Palais Royal on 
 Are, chiefly it appears with the intention of destroying the apart¬ 
 ments of Prince Napoleon , most of whose valuables and works 
 of art had fortunately been removed. The S. wing, includ¬ 
 ing most of the apartments in the ‘Cour d’Honneur’, with 
 the exception of the S.W. corner where the Theatre Framjais is 
 situated, became a prey to the flames and was almost entirely 
 destroyed. The firemen employed to extinguish the conflagration 
 were shot at by insurgents concealed in the neighbouring streets, 
 but they succeeded in preventing the fire from extending beyond 
 the Cour d'Honneur. Had the galleries with their richly stocked 
 shops been destroyed, the loss would have been incalculable. 
 
 Beyond its historical associations, the Palais Royal presents 
 little attraction, and the interior is not now shown to the public. 
 
 The principal entrance to the galleries and garden is on the 1. 
 side of the facade, between the palace and the Thedtre Franfais 
 (p. 44). The colonnade first entered is the Galerie de Chartres , 
 in which Chevet's famous shop is situated (p. 13). 
 
2. PALAIS ROYAL. 
 
 79 
 
 The ground-floors of the square of buildings which enclose the 
 garden are chiefly occupied by shops, which exhibit a tempting dis¬ 
 play of jewellery and other ‘objets de luxe’. These were for a long 
 period the best shops in Paris, constituting one of the most splen¬ 
 did bazaars in the world, but they are now greatly surpassed by the 
 similar warehouses in the Boulevard des Italiens, Rue de la Paix, 
 and that neighbourhood. The galleries are still, however, much fre¬ 
 quented by strangers, as they afford a pleasant retreat from the 
 noise and bustle of the streets. The rent of a small shop here ave¬ 
 rages 120—160 l. per annum. Fixed prices are not much in vogue 
 in the Palais Royal. 
 
 The most showy part of the Palais Royal is the handsome 
 Galerie d'Orleans (S. side), an arcade 320 ft. in length and 
 50 ft. in width, covered with glass and paved with slabs of 
 marble. It was constructed in 1830 on the site of the disreputable 
 wooden stalls which formerly stood here. Above the shops runs 
 a double terrace, flanked with vases containing flowers, and used 
 as a private promenade in connection with the palace in the Rue 
 St. Honore. 
 
 The first floors of most of the houses of the Palais Royal are 
 used as restaurants. The Cafe de la Rotonde (p. 18) in the Galerie 
 Beaujolais , at the N. end of the garden, enjoys the sole privilege of 
 placing chairs in the garden for its guests, a monopoly purchased 
 for the sum of 40,000 fr. per annum from the former Cafd de Foy. 
 The gallery on the E. side is called the Galerie de Valois, that on 
 the W. side the Galerie Montpensier. The Theatre Fran^ais, as 
 already mentioned, forms the S.W. corner of this extensive pile of 
 buildings; at the opposite end of the same side is the Theatre du 
 Palais Royal (p. 47), forming the N. extremity of the Galerie 
 Montpensier. 
 
 The Garden, which is a garden in little more than the name, 
 is 257yds. in length and 110yds. in breadth. It is somewhat scan¬ 
 tily shaded by a quadruple row of elms and limes. In the centre 
 is a circular basin of water, 20 yds. in diameter, near which a 
 military band generally plays on summer evenings at 6 o’clock, 
 attracting a large audience. On the N. and S. sides of the basin are 
 long, enclosed flower-beds. 
 
 The garden is embellished with good copies in bronze of the 
 Apollo Belvedere and the Diana of Versailles and several modern 
 works: Youth bathing, by d’Espercieux: Boy struggling with a goat, 
 by Lemoine ; Ulysses on the sea-shore, by Bra; Eurydice bitten by 
 a serpent, by Nanteuil. 
 
 The small cannon on the grass at the S. end of the flower- 
 garden is fired by means of a burning-glass at noon precisely. 
 
 On the N. and S. sides are small kiosques, or pavilions, where 
 newspapers are lent out at 5c. each, and others where toys are sold. 
 The chairs under the trees are let at 10 c. each. 
 
80 
 
 2. PALAIS ROYAL. 
 
 The garden presents a brilliant appearance in the evening, 
 when, in addition to the 200 lamps of the arcade's, each shop 
 contributes its utmost to turn night into day. All the entrances 
 to the garden are closed at midnight, but the galleries re¬ 
 main open. 
 
 At the hack of the Palais Royal begins the Rue Vivienne, which 
 passes the BibliothSque Nationale (1.) and the Bourse (r.), and leads 
 to the Boulevard Montmartre. 
 
 The long street at right angles to the Rue Vivienne, imme¬ 
 diately to the N. of the Palais Royal, is the Rue Neuve des Petits 
 Champs, which to the 1. (N.W.) leads to the Rue Richelieu, where 
 the entrance to the Bibliotheque Nationale is situated, passes near 
 the (r.) The'atre Italien (p. 45), and terminates near the Place 
 Vendome (p. 71) in the Rue Neuve des Capuoines, which connects 
 it with the boulevards. To the r. (S.E.) the Rue Neuve des Petits 
 Champs passes the (1.) Oaleries Colbert and Vivienne, the second of 
 which is the scene of busy traffic, the (1.) Rue de la Banque, where 
 the Hotel da Timbre is situated, and the entrance to the (r.) 
 Banque de France , and terminates in the small, circular Place des 
 Victoires (PL, white, 7), designed by Mansart, embellished in 
 1686 with a gilded statue of Louis XIV., bearing the in¬ 
 scription, l viro immortali and named after that monarch. The 
 monument was destroyed in 1792, and replaced by an obelisk 
 inscribed with a list of victories gained by the republican army, 
 from which the Place derives its present name. This obelisk 
 was in its turn replaced by a statue of General Desaix (p. 183) 
 in 1806, but in 1814 the statue was melted down with that of 
 Napoleon and others to furnish materials for the construction 
 of the monument of Henri IV. on the Pont Neuf (p. 184). The 
 present clumsy monument, an Equestrian Statue of Louis XIV., 
 which is much too large for the space in which it stands, was erected 
 in 1822 from a design by Bosio. The figure of the horse, in a 
 rearing attitude, rests on the hind-legs and tail, and the rider 
 is garbed as a Roman general. The long inscriptions record that 
 the statue was erected to a king, ‘maximos inter reges magno', to 
 replace the original one, destroyed l per infanda temp or a . The 
 reliefs on the pedestal represent the king’s passage of the Rhine 
 and the distribution of military honours. 
 
 A short street leads from the N. side of the Place des Victoires, 
 to the 1., to the church of Notre Dame des Victoires, or des Petits- 
 Peres, erected in 1656—1740 to commemorate the taking of Rochelle 
 from the Huguenots. The building is uninteresting, but is famous 
 as a resort of pilgrims. The altar to the r. of the choir, which is 
 the object of special veneration, was despoiled of its most valuable 
 ornaments by the Communists, but has been richly re-decorated. 
 The walls of the chapels are almost entirely covered with votive in- 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 81 
 
 scriptions on marble. The choir, which contains some well executed 
 carved woodwork, is adorned with pictures by Vanloo, one of 
 them being an Allegory of the capture of Rochelle, the others re¬ 
 presenting episodes from the life of St. Augustine. The third chapel 
 on the 1. contains the monument of Lulli, the musician (d. 1687), 
 by Cotton; the first on the r., a St. Peter in bronze, seated on the. 
 pontifical throne, with devout persons approaching to kiss his foot. 
 
 3. Palace and Galleries of the Louvre. 
 
 I. The Palace. 
 
 The most important public building at Paris, both architec¬ 
 turally and on account of the extensive treasures of art which 
 it contains, is the **Louvre (PL, white, 5), a palace of vast 
 extent, rising between the Rue de Itivoli and the Seine, and 
 said to derive its name from an ancient hunting chateau once 
 situated here in the midst of a forest termed Luparn or Louverie. 
 Philip Augustus erected a castle with a strong keep or donjon on 
 the same site, close to the city wall of that period, for the purpose 
 of commanding the course of the Seine. The position of the an¬ 
 cient donjon is indicated by a white line on the ground in the 
 S.W. corner of the Cour du Louvre. In 1361 — 80 Charles Y. 
 enclosed this chateau within the precincts of the city and fitted it 
 up as a royal residence, but all these buildings were removed by 
 Francis I. , who laid the foundation of the present palace in 
 1541. It. was begun from designs by Pierre Lescot (d. 1574), 
 and consisted at first of the W. half of the court only, to the 1. of 
 the clock (see Plan). This part of the building is generally known 
 as the Old Louvre, and is considered a fine example of the French 
 Renaissance style. The sculptures of the pediments by Paul 
 Ponce, and those of the ‘irils-de-boeuf’ by Jean Goujon, are works 
 of great merit. The Old Louvre was completed in the reign of 
 Henri 11. and extended towards the Seine. The palace was first 
 occupied by Catherine de Medicis and her son Charles IX. On 19th 
 Aug., 1572, the marriage of the princess Margaret of Valois with 
 the king of Navarre, afterwards Henri IV. of France, was solem¬ 
 nised here. Five days later, on the night of 24th Aug. , Char¬ 
 les IX. gave the signal at the Louvre for the massacre of the 
 Huguenots. The guards immediately issued from the palace-court 
 where they had been assembled, and proceeded first to the resi¬ 
 dence of Admiral de Coligny, who became the first victim of the 
 fearful Night of St. Bartholomew. According to a popular tradition, 
 the king himself on this occasion fired on his subjects from one of 
 the S. windows of the palace (p. 97), and the following inscription 
 was accordingly engraved under the window in question in 1796: 
 ‘C’est de cette fenetre que V in fame Charles IX., d' execrable memoire , 
 a tire sur le peuple avec une carabine.' Six years later, however, 
 the inscription was erased, as it was discovered that that part of the 
 Hvkdekkr. Paris. 4th Edition. g 
 
82 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 palace was not built till the reign of Henri IV. (1589—1610). 
 That monarch, following out the design of Charles IX., erected part 
 of the great gallery, 487 yds. in length, which connects the Louvre 
 with the Tuileries. The first half of it, designed by Ducerceau, 
 was completed in his reign, but was rebuilt in 1866—69. The 
 second half, designed by Metzeau , was constructed by Louis XIII. 
 (1610—1643), who proposed to complete the imposing square by 
 which the court of the Louvre is enclosed. During his reign the 
 Pavilion Sully , or cle VHorloge. designed by Lemercier , and adorned 
 with eight Caryatides by Sarazin, and the facade to the r. of the 
 pavilion, corresponding with that of Pierre Lescot to the 1., were 
 completed. The construction of the N., S., and E. sides, which 
 he had only begun, was continued by his successor Louis XIV. 
 (1643—1715), in whose reign the E.wing, with its principal facade 
 towards the Place du Louvre, opposite St. Germain TAuxerrois, 
 was erected. The handsome '""Colonnade here, a work of Claude 
 Perrault, physician and architect (d. 1688), the merit of which is 
 sometimes overrated, consists of twenty-eight Corinthian columns 
 in pairs, in front of a gallery of the height of the first floor. In the 
 centre, above the principal entrance, is a pavilion of eight columns, 
 surmounted by a pediment, and at the ends are two other pavilions, 
 each adorned with eight pilasters. This imposing facade, 190 yds. 
 in length, and 88 ft. in height, is crowned in the Italian style with 
 an open balustrade. The work was not, however, completed by 
 Louis XIV., and was neglected by his successors Louis XV. and 
 Louis XVI., who preferred St. Germain and Versailles to the 
 Louvre and the Tuileries. During the Revolution the works were 
 entirely suspended, but Napoleon I. caused them to be resumed by 
 Percier and Fontaine , who restored and completed the buildings 
 around the court, and then proceeded to fit up the interior 
 where little progress had yet been made. Nothing more, however, 
 was done by the kings who occupied the throne after the fall of 
 the emperor. 
 
 The final completion of this immense edifice , to which so many- 
 different generations had contributed, was reserved for Napoleon III., 
 by whose order the works were resumed in 1851. The execution 
 of the task was entrusted to the architect Visconti, and after his 
 death in 1853 to Lefluel , and under their auspices half of the N. 
 wing, 478 yds. in length, the galleries of the interior, and the two 
 facades towards the Place du Carrousel (p. 113) were at length 
 completed in 1856. These modern works alone cost 75 million 
 francs. 
 
 These enormous piles of buildings, which together with the 
 Tuileries cover an area of 24 acres, constitute one of the most 
 magnificent palaces in the world. Although deficient in uniformity 
 of design, they present on the whole a harmonious aggregate, and 
 form a most imposing monument of modern French architecture. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 83 
 
 The arrangements and decoration of the interior accord well with 
 the style of the exterior of the edifice. 
 
 After having inspected the Old Louvre, and particularly the 
 principal facade and the court, we shall have no difficulty, with the 
 aid of the annexed plan, in finding our way to the court of the New 
 Louvre, or Place Napoleon, which is reached from the first court 
 by passing under the Pavilion de THorloge. The New Louvre, 
 the N. side of which is seen from the Place du Palais Royal, pos¬ 
 sesses a second and parallel wing, 240 yds. in length, extending 
 from the Old Louvre to the Place du Carrousel (p. 113), and form¬ 
 ing the N. side of the Place Napoldon. Along the whole of 
 the ground-floor extends a handsome Corinthian colonnade, with 
 arcades and a terrace above. Over these columns are placed colossal 
 statues of 86 celebrated Frenchmen, and on the balustrade of the 
 attic 64 allegorical groups. The six pavilions of this part of the 
 New Louvre, covered with domes like those of the Old , are some¬ 
 what over-decorated with columns in pairs, colossal groups of 
 statuary, and huge Caryatides. 
 
 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, and Tuileries, see p. 113. 
 
 The Old Louvre has been used as a museum of the fine arts 
 since the Revolution. In 1793 the works of art dispersed among 
 the different palaces and chateaux belonging to the crown were 
 collected here, and the galleries were afterwards greatly enriched by 
 the spoils of the republican and imperial armies. Many of these 
 last had to be restored to their owners on the conclusion of the 
 war, but valuable additions to the collection have been made since 
 that period, and the picture-gallery is now the most extensive in 
 the world. 
 
 The New Louvre is chiefly occupied by government offices, but 
 part of the S. wing belongs to the museum. This wing was set 
 on fire by the Communists in 1871, and the part next the Tuileries 
 much damaged, but it has since been restored. The corresponding 
 part of the N. wing suffered still more seriously, but is now under¬ 
 going restoration. Nearer the Old Louvre, and facing the Place du 
 Palais Royal, is that part of the N. wing, termed th e Pavilion de la 
 Piblioth'eque , which formerly contained the Library of the Louvre. 
 This valuable collection, consisting of 90,000 vols. and many 
 rare and interesting MSS., was entirely destroyed on 24th May, 
 1871. On the night of the 23rd a troop of insurgents entered the 
 library and ordered the concierge to pour petroleum into the 
 different rooms, and on his refusal they imprisoned him with his 
 wife in his own lodge, and proceeded to set tire to the building. 
 Next day the government troops under General Douai arrived in 
 time to release the honest custodian from his perilous situation, 
 and to arrest the farther progress of the flames. 
 
 6* 
 
84 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 II. The Galleries. 
 
 All the Collections in the Louvre are open to the public daily, 
 Mondays excepted, the restrictions as to days and hours to which 
 some of them were formerly subject having been removed in January, 
 1874. From 1st April to 30th Sept, they are open 9—5, and from 
 1st Oct. to 31st March 10—4 o’clock f. 
 
 The Musee is really an agglomeration of fifteen different collec¬ 
 tions , distribute d throughout a perfect labyrinth of apartments, 
 where the visitor would soon be bewildered without the aid of 
 a detailed plan. If pressed for time, it is specially important that 
 he should know what are the most interesting objects , and how 
 most speedily to find them. He should go as early as possible, 
 particularly to the picture-galleries, which are often crowded in 
 the afternoon. A walkthrough all the apartments, without stop¬ 
 ping , occupies nearly 3 hrs. 
 
 The fact that upwards of 100,000 fr. per annum was formerly 
 received at the vestiaire , or cloak room, for the care of sticks and 
 umbrellas (10 c. each) will convey some idea of the vast influx 
 of visitors. The petty annoyance of the ‘vestiaire’ is now happily 
 abolished. The annexed plan shows the position of the various 
 collections, the openings in the lines denoting entrances, and the 
 visitor will have no difficulty in finding the different entrances, 
 from whatever direction he approaches. All of them, however, have 
 one grand common entrance in the Pavilion Denon in the Place 
 Napoleon III. This is at present closed, but as it will probably be 
 re-opened shortly we shall describe the approach thence to the 
 different parts of the museum. 
 
 The visitor should in the first place particularly note the contents 
 of the different floors. 
 
 The Ground Floor contains Sculpture , from the days of the 
 Egyptians and Assyrians down to modern times, and Engravings. 
 
 The First Floor contains the Pictures , the Antiquities , the 
 Musee Campana , the Musee de la Renaissance , the Drawings . and 
 the Antique Bronzes. 
 
 The Second Floor contains the Musee de Marine , the Musee 
 Ethnographique , and three rooms supplementary to the picture 
 gallery containing Flemish and Dutch Pictures. 
 
 The Catalogues which are generally sold at the entrance of each 
 collection not only enumerate the objects in it, but contain biogra¬ 
 phical notices of the artists and other valuable information, and 
 should be purchased by those who desire to make a special study of 
 
 t The traveller who is unacquainted with French may engage one ot 
 the cicerones who are to he found under the porticos of the Louvre, and 
 who will he pointed out to him if necessary by any of the custodians of 
 the galleries. Some of them speak the principal European and even 
 Oriental languages. Their fee is 2 fr. per hour, or 10 fr. per day. If 
 hived for the whole day they expect an additional payment for food. 
 
3. LOUVRE-. 
 
 85 
 
 any department. The ordinary visitor, however, may well dispense 
 with these works, which are often voluminous and expensive , as 
 he will find the principal objects of interest enumerated below. 
 Another objection to their use is , that while their enumeration is 
 in accordance with the consecutive numbers, the objects themselves 
 are often arranged without reference to the numbers they bear. In 
 the annexed list, on the other hand, the objects are arranged in the 
 order in which they actually occur. 
 
 In many of the departments the objects exhibited have been 
 furnished with their names and explanatory notices, but this 
 laudable effort to contribute to the instruction of the public has not' 
 yet been extended to the picture galleries, where such information 
 is most needed. The order of the pictures is frequently changed, 
 but the appended list is at present accurate, and it is hoped that no 
 great alterations will take place for some time to come. 
 
 A. GROUND FLOOR. 
 
 ^Assyrian Antiquities (Musee Assyrten). The entrance is in 
 the passage between the Cour du Louvre and Place du Louvre, 
 on the r. when approached from the latter. This collection is 
 the result of excavations made on the banks of the Euphrates 
 and Tigris at Nineveh, under the superintendence of M. Botta, 
 French consul in Syria, in 1843 — 45. The winged bulls with 
 human heads and the reliefs on the walls are similar to those 
 preserved in the British Museum. The fragments of a vast 
 palace, perhaps 4000 years old, are especially remarkable. The 
 winged bulls , which formed the entrance to the palace , are 
 monoliths. Adjacent are two heroes, each holding a young lion 
 under one arm and a scourge in the other hand, supposed to 
 represent the Assyrian kings Nebuchadnezzar and Sennacherib. 
 The various specimens of Assyrian writing collected here , have 
 hitherto defied the attempts of philologists to decipher them. 
 
 The next hall contains — 
 
 Antiquities from Asia Minor. By the wall: * Frieze of the 
 temple of Artemis Leucophrys (Diana with the white forehead) 
 at Magnesia near Ephesus. *Vase from Pergamus , presented 
 by Sultan Mahmoud in 1838. Fragments of other edifices, Greek 
 inscriptions, tomb-reliefs. 
 
 We now reach the foot of a Stair which ascends in a straight 
 direction to the Mustfe de la Renaissance (p. 109) on the first floor, 
 and to the Musde de Marine (p.lll), the Musee Ethnographique 
 (p. 112), and the supplementary picture-rooms on the second floor. 
 
 To the r. of this stair, in the colonnade, a Musee des Platres, or 
 collection of casts, not at present open to the public, is in course 
 of formation. To the 1. is another hall of Assyrian Antiquities, 
 which, as well as the following, contains a collection of remark- 
 
86 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 able Phoenician sarcophagi in stone , on each of which the head of 
 the deceased is represented in elaborate carving. The next room 
 contains reliefs from the palace of Nineveh of a later date (7th 
 cent. B. C.). 
 
 We now retrace our steps to visit the — 
 
 ^Egyptian Museum. The entrance is opposite that of the 
 Assyrian Museum. On the ground floor are the larger antiquities 
 (the smaller are on the first floor, see p. 107): (A.) gods, kings, 
 sphynxes ; (B.) bas-reliefs ; (C.) shafts of pillars with hieroglyphics 
 and inscriptions; (D.) sarcophagi, pyramids, votive-tablets. Of 
 these the following are the most interesting: — 
 
 Close to the entrance. *A. 23. Huge Sphynx of reddish 
 granite, representing king Menephthah, son of Ramses II., who 
 reigned in the 15th cent, before Christ, supposed to be the 
 Pharaoh who oppressed the Israelites. The emblem of royalty 
 is engraved on the chest and right shoulder. 
 
 *D. 8, 9. Two sarcophagi of grey granite and basalt, with 
 admirably preserved inscriptions and insignia. 
 
 *D. 38 (to the 1. in the centre of the wall). Cast of a bas- 
 relief in the form of a shield termed the Zodiac of Denderah, 
 found during the French campaign in Egypt among the ruins 
 of a temple of Isis in the village of Denderah in Upper Egypt. 
 The female figures at the corners represent the four cardinal 
 points. The original is in the Bibliotheque Nationale. 
 
 D. 29. Mortuary chapel of a king, cut out of a single block 
 of reddish granite, 10 ft. high and 4 3 / 4 ft. in breadth, raised from 
 the bottom of the harbour of Alexandria in 1825, dating from 
 B.C. 580. 
 
 A. 12 (adjacent to the last). Small group in reddish granite 
 representing king Ramses II., crowned with the Pschent, the Egyp¬ 
 tian emblem of royalty; on either side are the gods Osiris and 
 Horus. Figures of the goddess Pacht with the lion’s head occur 
 frequently. 
 
 From the 2nd Room, containing Smaller Egyptian Monuments, 
 a stair leads to the first floor. Before ascending, however, we 
 shall complete our inspection of the ground floor. 
 
 A long corridor adjoining the Egyptian Museum contains the — 
 
 Algerian Museum, still incomplete, and not yet open to the 
 public, consisting of inscriptions, busts, statues, architectural 
 fragments of the Roman imperial period, and other antiquities 
 found in Algiers. A mosaic representing Neptune and Ampliitrite, 
 a fragment of a mosaic from Carthage representing a man on 
 horseback, and a few Arabian inscriptions at the end of the 
 corridor may also be mentioned. 
 
 We now retrace our steps, turn to the 1. into the court of the 
 Louvre, and proceed to the — 
 
Entr. from Pav. Denon. 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 87 
 
 Mediseval and Renaissance Sculptures. The entrance is in 
 the court, to the 1. of the outlet towards the Pont des Arts, by 
 the door in the middle of this block. This museum contains many 
 fine works and some of the chefs-d’oeuvre of the Italian, German, 
 and French sculptors from the 13th cent, downwards. It occupies 
 live rooms. The short passage opposite the entrance leads to the 
 
 North Side. 
 
 Rue de Rivoli. 
 
 Salle de M. Colombe. 
 
 — de J. de Douai. 
 
 — de J. Goujon. 
 
 — des Anguier. 
 
 — de Coysevox. 
 
 — de Puget. 
 
 — des Coustou. 
 
 — de Houdon. 
 
 — de Chaudet. 
 
 g g 
 
 — B m 
 
 f 5 
 
 jVIusee des 
 gravures. 
 
 31 usde 
 Assyrien.| 
 
 Ground Floor. 
 
 Sculptures. 
 
 3 £ 
 
 rrr 
 
 tonde. ^ 
 
 Ill'll'! 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 i i i | 
 
 — Sculptures antiques. 
 
 i i i 1 
 
 IV 
 
 Sculptures 
 
 antiques. 
 
 2 d 
 
 Cour du Louvre. 
 
 Ixv 
 
 xiv|xui|xu| 
 
 Sculptures. 
 
 i i 
 
 XI1 X 
 
 1 
 
 
 i 
 
 antiques. 
 
 1 
 
 1IX 
 
 VI I V 11 1 VIII 
 
 n r 
 
 Platres. 
 
 Renaissance. 
 
 I b I C I (1 
 
 Seine. 
 
 Pont des Arts. 
 
 I. Salle des Cariatides. 
 
 II. — de l’Acliille. 
 
 III. — des Saisons or des 
 
 Einpereurs. 
 
 IV. — d'Auguste. 
 
 V. — de PAutel. 
 
 VI. — du Tibre. 
 
 VII. — du Gladiateur. 
 
 VIII. — de la 31incrve. 
 
 IX. Salle de la Melpomene. 
 
 de 
 
 X. 
 
 XI. 
 XII. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 XIV. 
 XV. 
 
 de la Venus 
 Milo. 
 
 de la Psyche, 
 du Sarcophage. 
 d'Hercule et de 
 Telephe. 
 de la 3Iddee. 
 de Pan. 
 
 saloon of Jean Goujon, to the r. of which at the farther end is that 
 of Michel Colombe. We turn to the r., and traverse the Musec 
 Chretien , consisting chiefly of sarcophagi and bas-reliefs, then the 
 Satie Judaique , containing architectural fragments from Jerusalem 
 and particularly from a sepulchre outside the gates of that city 
 known as the ‘Tomb of the Kings’. From this room we now 
 enter the — 
 
 Place du Louvre. 
 
88 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 Salle de Michel Colombe (d. 1514), containing some remark¬ 
 ably fine sculptures by this master: *Bas-relief of St. George and 
 the Dragon; *t\vo recumbent stone figures, from the church 
 of St. Germain l’Auxerrois; kneeling statues of Philippe de 
 Comines, the celebrated historian (d. 1509), and his wife, on a 
 kind of sarcophagus. 
 
 Salle de Jean de Douai, surnamed Jean de Bologne (d. 1608): 
 **two prisoners, unfinished marble statues by Michael Anyelo 
 (d. 1564), the younger especially of great beauty, both probably 
 destined for the tomb of Julius II. at Rome; a *high relief in 
 bronze, the ‘Nymph of Fontainebleau’, by Benvenuto Cellini 
 (d. 1571); * Mercury and Psyche, by Adrian de Vries (1593); a 
 victorious Jason, of the school of Michael Angelo, a statue in bronze 
 rescued from the garden of St. Cloud at the time of the Prussian 
 invasion. 
 
 Salle de Jean Goujon (d. 1572): :i 'Diana with the stag, the 
 celebrated ‘Diane Chasseresse’, a large group with two dogs, said 
 without ground to be a likeness of Diane de Poitiers, mistress of 
 Henri II., who at the age of forty captivated the king when in his 
 eighteenth year. This work was executed by Jean Goujon himself. 
 To the 1. of it are the Three Graces, or the ‘Three Theological 
 Virtues’, in marble, by Germain Pilon (1535—1590), which origi¬ 
 nally supported an urn containing the heart of Henri II. To the r., 
 by the same sculptor, are the Four Cardinal Virtues in wood, in¬ 
 tended as bearers for the reliquary of Ste. Genevieve. At the back 
 of these is a beautiful sculptured chimney-piece, also by Pilon. 
 Adjacent is a fine torso column in white marble with allegorical 
 statues in bronze and emblems, being part of a tomb-monument by 
 Barth. Prieur (d. 1611). Nos. 117, 143, 144, and 37 are also good 
 statues from tombs. 
 
 Salle desAnguier (Francois 1604—1669, Michel 1612 — 1686): 
 In the centre, by Francois, a pyramidal monument in white marble 
 to the Due Henri de Longueville (d. 1663), surrounded by alle¬ 
 gorical figures and trophies. By Franqueoille (about 1548—1618), 
 four figures of slaves, which formerly surrounded the equestrian 
 statue of Henri IV. on the Pont Neuf. Beside them are fragments 
 of the statue itself, which was destroyed in 1792. Then a statue 
 of Mercury by Jean de Bologne and Louis XIII., Anne of Austria, 
 Captives, etc., by Simon Guillain (1581 — 1658). 
 
 We must now retrace our steps through the Salle Goujon. 
 
 The small room to the r. of the egress contains a cast of the 
 celebrated chimney-piece in carved wood in the Palais de Justice 
 at Bruges: in the centre is the statue of Charles V., to the 1. 
 Mary of Burgundy and Maximilian I. of Austria, to the r. Charles 
 the Bold and Margaret of York. There are also casts of the 
 tombstones of Charles the Bold (d. 1477) and Mary of Burgundy 
 (d. 1482), from the originals at Bruges. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 89 
 
 On leaving this museum we observe, nearly opposite, the Pavilion 
 de Marengo, the gateway of which leads into the Rue de Rivoli. A 
 room to the r. of this pavilion , belonging to the Muse'e Assyrien, 
 but temporarily used for other purposes, and entered from the court, 
 contains the * Venus of Falerone , an antique of great beauty, which 
 will probably be placed eventually near the Venus of Milo (p. 92), 
 as it appears to be a slightly varied form of that celebrated work. 
 It was found at Falerone among the ruins of the theatre of Valeria, 
 in the ancient district of Picenum in Italy, in 1836. The statue is 
 in Parian marble and of Greek workmanship, and is believed to be 
 more ancient than the Venus of Milo itself. Although much muti¬ 
 lated, being without head or arms, it is a work of great value, especi¬ 
 ally as there is reason to believe that it forms half of the famous 
 ancient group of Venus disarming Mars. The Venus of Falerone 
 lias her left foot intact, placed on a helmet, while the Venus of 
 Milo has lost her left foot. There is also a considerable difference 
 between the statues as regards the drapery , the Venus of F'alerone 
 having her breast covered with a tunic of line texture, while that of 
 the other is uncovered. Casts of other variations of this work are 
 placed beside it for comparison. 
 
 In the court, on the other side of the Pavilion de Marengo, is 
 the entrance to the — 
 
 Musee des Gravures, or de La Clialcographie , which is rather a 
 saloon for the sale of engravings than a museum, and contains many 
 plates from works in the public galleries. 
 
 Modern Sculptures. The pavilion facing the entrance from the 
 colonnade is the Pavilion Sully, to the r. of which is the Musee de 
 Sculptures Modernes entered from the court, and consisting of live 
 saloons. We turn to the r. , and begin with the last saloon in this 
 direction: — 
 
 Salle de Coysevox (1640 — 1720): Busts of Richelieu and 
 Bossuet; tombstone of Cardinal Mazarin, originally in the chapel 
 of the Colle'ge des Quatre Nations, which is now the Institut 
 de France (p. 212). 
 
 Salle he Puget (1620—1694): *Milo, the athlete of Crotona, 
 torn to pieces by a lion , a large and celebrated group in marble 
 (p. 106); Perseus releasing Andromeda; Alexander and Diogenes, 
 in high relief; Caryatides, casts from those of the Hotel de Ville 
 at Toulon. 
 
 Salle des Coustou (Nicolas, 1658—1733; his brother Guil¬ 
 laume, 1678—1746): Louis XV., as Jupiter, and his queen Maria 
 Lesczinska, as Juno. Bouchardon (1698 — 1762), Cupid cutting his 
 bow from the club of Hercules. 
 
 Salle de IIoudon : Diana, resting on one foot, a statue in bronze 
 by Houdon (d. 1828); Ganymede with the eagle, by Julien; 
 Cupid and Psyche, by Delaistre; and several busts. 
 
 Salle de Chaudet (d. 1810): *Canova (d. 1822), Cupid and 
 
90 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 Psyche; Caldelari, Narcissus; Roman ( d. 1835), Nisus and Eu- 
 ryalus; Dupaty (cl. 1825), Biblis metamorphosed into a fountain; 
 Bartolini, colossal bust of Napoleon I. in bronze; Rude (d. 1854), 
 a young Neapolitan tortoise-catcher; Chaudet , Cupid with the 
 butterfly, and the shepherd Phorbas carrying the young (Edipus; 
 * Canova, Cupid and Psyche ; Bosio (d. 1843), the nymph Salmacis ; 
 Rutschiel (d. 1837), Zephyr and Psyche; Pradier (d. 1852), Son 
 of Niobe struck by an arrow. 
 
 The last museum on the ground-floor is that of the •— 
 
 * Ancient Sculptures (Marbles). The entrance is either by the 
 Pavilion Denon, in the centre of the S. wing of the New Louvre 
 (side next the Seine), or by the door to the 1. under the Pavilion 
 de FHorloge, when approached from the court. The latter entrance 
 being the only one used at present, our description will begin 
 thence. If the visitor enters from the Pavilion Denon , he may 
 either descend a few steps to the 1. of the great stair and see the 
 Salle des Cariatides first, or he may visit it last of all. This saloon 
 is preceded by a vestibule from which a stair to the r. ascends 
 direct to the Musde dePeinture and several other collections, tempo¬ 
 rarily forming the principal entrance. 
 
 Salle des Cauiatiues. In this hall Henri IV. celebrated his 
 marriage with Margaret of Valois, and his body was placed here 
 after his assassination. It was here that the Ligue held its meetings 
 in 1593, and that the Duke of Guise caused four of its most 
 zealous members to be hanged the following year. In 1659 the 
 hall was used as a theatre by Moliere, who acted here in his 
 own inimitable plays. 
 
 The Caryatides which support the gallery at the entrance, and 
 give the hall its name, are by Jean Goujon, who, being a Huguenot, 
 was shot while at work here on the Night of St. Bartholomew. 
 Over the galleTy is a duplicate of the Nymph of Fontainebleau, by 
 Ben. Cellini (p. 88). Along the wall to the 1. as we turn our 
 backs on the Caryatides : 148. Stooping Venus ; 684. Colossal statue 
 of Alexander; 686. Nymph with conch; 34, 33. Jupiter; *694. 
 Boy with goose; 32. Jupiter. At the end, by the columns: 89, 92. 
 Posidonius and Demosthenes, two sitting statues. Along the op¬ 
 posite wall, returning towards the Caryatides: 533. Lion; 559. 
 Young Hercules; 564. Antinous; 167. Thalia; 312. Candelabrum, 
 richly carved; 221. Bacchus intoxicated; 756. Lion from Platea. 
 The finest works are in the centre. Beginning from the end next 
 the Caryatides: 704. Discus-thrower; 217. Bacchus; *235. The 
 Borghese Vase, of Pentelic marble, with Bacchanalian scenes in 
 relief; 219. Bacchus; *183. Jason, sometimes called Cincinnatus. 
 Passing to the 1. of the Demosthenes with its back to a column at 
 the end of the saloon, we next observe on the r. the Borghese 
 Hermaphrodite, one of the best existing copies of the original of 
 Polycletus. 
 
3, LOUVRE. 
 
 91 
 
 The neighbouring door leads into a room where we at once turn 
 to the r. and proceed to the foot of the grand staircase of the en¬ 
 trance by the Pavilion Denon. 
 
 Here we first enter a gallery containing architectural fragments, 
 Greek and Roman inscriptions, and sarcophagi, and next the — 
 
 Rotunda, with a gilded ceiling adorned with a painting by Mau- 
 zaisse. In the centre: *144. Achilles, supposed to be a reduced 
 copy of the Mars belonging to the group of the Venus of Falerone 
 (p. 89). Then, around the room, beginning on the r.: Melpomene, 
 Lycian Apollo, Chastity, Ceres, another Lycian Apollo, Nymph, 
 Mars, Bonus Eventus, Pollux, Mars Victorius, and two vases. To 
 the r. now follow the — 
 
 Salles des Saisons , or des Empereurs , richly decorated with 
 gilding and painting, and containing bas-reliefs in marble. In the 
 centre of the first is a fine ancient fountain. Most of the works are 
 statues and busts of the Roman empire, each being furnished with 
 the name assigned to it by French savants. Several of them, such 
 asCaracalla, Septimius Severus, Commodus, andTrajan, are repeated 
 more than once, and the different copies are placed together for 
 comparison. The eight granite columns which separate the third 
 room from the fourth are from the cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 The last room in this direction, to the r., is the — 
 
 Salle d’Auguste , which contains a series of busts and statues 
 of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Nero, and others. In the 
 centre is the finest of these: *184. Germanicus, as Mercury, 
 
 sometimes called the Orator. At the end of the room is an Au¬ 
 gustus, with majestic drapery. 
 
 We now return to the Rotunda and pass to the r. through a sa¬ 
 loon, in the centre of which is a fine trilateral altar, called that of 
 the Twelve Gods, and also containing numerous bas-reliefs, a met¬ 
 ope from the Parthenon, fragments from the temple of Jupiter at 
 Olympia, and others found at Thasus. 
 
 On leaving this suite of rooms we turn to the r. and enter the 
 suite of twelve saloons containing ancient sculpture. On the 1. is 
 the entrance to the Salle des Cariatides, on the r. that of the — 
 
 Salle du Tibre. To the r.: *449. River-god of the Tiber, a 
 recumbent figure, with Romulus, Remus, and the she-wolf, a large 
 group in marble. In the centre: *98. Diana with the deer, known 
 as Diana a. la Biche, or the Diana of Versailles, from having been 
 formerly there, a celebrated work; 299. Centaur; *250. Silenusand 
 Bacchus. On the r. and 1. of the Tiber: 262, 263. Fauns. Beyond 
 these, four large antique Caryatides. Against thewindow-wall: 291. 
 Bacchante; 58. Ceres. By the opposite wall: 95. Zingarella (Egyp¬ 
 tian woman), or Diana, with the flesh in bron7.e; 218. Beardless 
 Bacchus; 401. 3£sculapius. Thepedestals of the statues in this and 
 the following rooms are often adorned with bas-reliefs. 
 
 Salle du Gladiatbur. In the centre : **262. The ‘Borghese 
 
92 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 Gladiator’, a celebrated work of the Greek sculptor Agasias; r. *135. 
 Venus Genetrix; 1. *97. Diana of Gabii. Beyond the Gladiator: 
 *86. Marsyas bound to a tree, awaiting the execution of the sen¬ 
 tence of Apollo that he should be flayed alive. To the r.: 370. 
 Cupid and Psyche. To the 1. : 326. Cupid; 178, 177. Mercury; 
 opposite, *281. Farnese Amazon. 
 
 Sallb ue la Minekve et ]>e la Melpomene. In the centre: 
 *70. Apollo Sauroctonus, or the lizard-killer, a young Apollo about 
 to kill a lizard running up a tree, formerly in the Villa Borghese at 
 Rome; *137. Venus of Arles, found at Arles in Provence in 1651 ; 
 
 North Side. 
 Place Napoleon. 
 Pavilion Denon. 
 
 Peinture fj 
 francaise jus- 
 qu’a Louis XIV. 
 
 1 fn Pemt. francaise 
 Denon. 1—I , . . / 
 
 depuis Louis XV 
 jusqu’ a present. 
 
 __ G __ 
 
 Peinture 
 
 Cour 
 
 Caulaincourt. 
 
 
 Salle 
 
 des 
 
 Et.ats. 
 
 JIL 
 
 Cour Visconti. 
 
 T i 
 
 Grande Galerie. 
 Peint. Peinture 
 
 tti 
 
 Rond^ 
 
 Peinture 
 
 _ 3 _ 
 
 Salon 
 
 carle. 
 
 flam, et boll. | ailem. | espagnole.| italienne, j 
 
 Quai des Tuileriea. 
 
 South Side. 
 
 142. Venus; without number, Bust of Alexander with a Greek in¬ 
 scription; 493. Genius of eternal repose; 386. Melpomene, the 
 muse of tragedy, 13 ft. in height, admirably draped. — To the 1., 
 opposite the windows : 393. Urania, or Hope; 415. Nemesis; 314. 
 Girl playing on the lyre; *114. Minerva, armed with helmet and 
 shield, 10 ft. in height, finely draped, found at Velletri near Rome 
 in 1797, and sometimes called the Minerva of Velletri; 301. Poly¬ 
 hymnia; 55. Ceres; 299. Worshipper as Euterpe. — By the win¬ 
 dows : 382. Euterpe; 80. Urn in porphyry; 297. Large cande¬ 
 labrum; 69. Seat from a bath ; 44. Providence. We now turn to 
 the 1. and enter the — 
 
 Salle du Venus, containing the ** Venus of Milo, the gem of 
 the collection, accidentally found in the island of Milo, or Melos, in 
 1820, a master-piece of the best period of Greek art (comp. p. 89). 
 In the bay to the 1., on the way to the next saloon: 157. Venus 
 rising from the sea. 
 
 Galerie d\Apollon. 
 
'[Bijoux.| Place Napoleon. 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 93 
 
 Salle pe la Psych^. On each side of the entrance : 265, 266. 
 Dancing fauns. To the 1. : 371. Punishment of Psyche; Euripides, 
 with a list of his dramas; 391. Young Athlete. Window side: 
 two chairs in marble , and 395. Athlete rubbing himself with oil. 
 In the passage to the next room, four statues of Venus with various 
 attributes. 
 
 North Side. 
 
 Rue de Rivoli. 
 
 d 
 
 Bronzes 
 
 antiques. 
 
 Collection 
 La Caze. 
 
 Salle Henri II. 
 
 9 |10|ll|12|13|14| 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 
 
 . . PM I INI, 
 
 Dessins. stel. Renaissance. I— 
 
 I I I I I I I I I I I I II I 1 
 
 Premier E tage. 
 
 Peintures, dessins et antiquites. 
 
 Cour du Louvre. 
 
 or* 
 
 III I 
 
 Antiquites 
 
 Salle des grecques et romaines. 
 7 Cheraindes. I 
 
 Ecole I I | | 
 
 fran£aise. Musde 
 
 Vases. Terracottas. 
 
 i i i i i 
 
 iiii 
 
 Antiquites 
 egvptiennes. 
 
 I i i 
 
 i i i 
 
 Campana. 
 
 Peintures 
 | a|ntiq|ues. 
 
 Q,uai du Louvre. 
 
 South Side. 
 
 Salle du Sarcophaoe. Large Sarcophagus found at Salonica, 
 with bold reliefs representing combats of Greeks and Amazons, with 
 the recumbent statues of the married pair for whom it was destined 
 on the lid. To the 1., in the bay: Venus Victrix. 
 
 Salle d’Hercule et de T£lephe. On the 1. : 450. Hercules 
 
94 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 with his son Telephus in his arms, and beside him the hind by which 
 the latter was reared. To the r. : Hermaphrodite; 116. Minerva. 
 In the bay: 118. Minerva; 138. Venus. 
 
 Salle de la Medm. To the 1.: 251. Drunken Silenus ; Sarco¬ 
 phagus with reliefs representing the revenge of Medea; 377. The 
 Graces; 155. Venus and Cupid; 144. Venus leaving the bath.— 
 To the 1., in the passage , Minerva. 
 
 Salle de Pan. To the 1. : 287. Pan, and several other sculptures 
 in a kind of passage, badly lighted. *Minerva ‘an collier’ (with the 
 pearl-necklace). 
 
 With this room terminates our visit to the collections on the 
 ground-floor of the Louvre, and we now leave the museum of sculp¬ 
 tures by retracing our steps through the Salle des Cariatides, or by 
 proceeding in a straight direction to the Pavilion Denon. 
 
 B. FIRST FLOOR. 
 
 The first floor of the Louvre contains the following collections : — 
 
 N. Side of the Old Louvre: Renaissance works, Chalks, Drawings. 
 
 W. Side: Continuation of Drawings, Antique Bronzes, La Caze 
 Collection of Pictures. 
 
 S. Side: Museum of Antiquities and Musde Campana. 
 
 That portion of the E. side which adjoins the colonnade, and 
 formerly contained the Musde des Souverains, now contains little to 
 interest the traveller, and will probably be fitted up as an Oriental 
 Museum. But the most important of all the collections is preserved 
 in the — 
 
 New Louvre: Picture Gallery, occupying about half of the wing 
 connecting the Old Louvre with the Tuileries on the side next the 
 Seine, and also the parallel inner wing. 
 
 Entrances. Besides the entrance by the Pavilion Denon, which 
 is at present closed, there are three others by which these collec¬ 
 tions may be approached : — 1. That of the Musee Assyrien (p. 85) ; 
 2. That of the Mus6e Egyptien, opposite the last; 3. That of the 
 Pavilion Sully (p. 89). — The visitor will easily become acquaint¬ 
 ed with the topography by consulting the general plan of the palace 
 (PL, white, 7) and the detailed plans pp. 92, 93. 
 
 The stair at the end of the Assyrian Museum, opposite the door, 
 leads direct to the Musde de la Renaissance (to the r.), beyond which 
 are the Chalks, Drawings, etc.; and from this same entrance to the 
 Musde de la Renaissance a small stair to the r. ascends to the Mustfe 
 de Marine, the Musde Ethnographique, and the supplementary Pic¬ 
 ture Saloons on the second floor. 
 
 From the end of the Egyptian Museum on the ground-floor, a 
 stair ascends straight to the Musde des Antiquitds (to the 1.), the 
 Musee Campana, etc., but of the three approaches we have men¬ 
 tioned the — 
 
 Principal Entrance to the galleries on the first floor is at present 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 95 
 
 that by the Pavilion Sully. At the top of the stair, which is called 
 the Escalier de Henri II., we have on our r. the Collection La Caze, 
 with which we shall begin our visit to the Picture Galleries. 
 
 Should the Pavilion Denon be re-opened to the public, the visi¬ 
 tor who enters by it would begin with the Salle Ronde, and end with 
 the Salle de Henri II. and the La Caze Collection. 
 
 ** Picture Gallery. 
 
 Catalogues may be purchased at the entrance : Italian and 
 Spanish schools 3 fr., Dutch, Flemish, and German 2 fr., French 
 3 fr.; or all bound together, 8 fr. 75 c. 
 
 It should be observed that in the official catalogues the artists’ 
 family names are arranged alphabetically; thus, instead of Ra¬ 
 phael, the catalogue has Sanzio (or Santi)-, instead of Titian, Ve- 
 cellio. The Italian and Spanish pictures have red numbers, Ger¬ 
 man, Flemish, and Dutch blue, and the French black. In order to 
 obtain permission to copy in the Louvre or Luxembourg, a 
 written application must be addressed to the Ministre des Beaux 
 Arts. 
 
 The following list, which comprises the most celebrated works 
 in the gallery, will suffice for all ordinary visitors. The date of the 
 death of each master is given where his name occurs for the first 
 time. The finest pictures are generally so surrounded with artists 
 and their easels , that the visitor sometimes finds it difficult to 
 approach them. On Sundays the gallery is generally crowded. 
 The aggregate length of all the saloons is nearly 3/ 4 M. 
 
 Collection La Caze. This valuable gallery, bequeathed to the 
 Louvre in 1869, comprises several good works by the French 
 genre-painters Antoine Watteau [1684 — 1721) and J. B. S. Char¬ 
 din (1699 — 1779). The pictures all bear the names of the artists. 
 To the r. of the entrance: several pictures by * Watteau, Chardin. 
 Wouwerman , etc.; 98, 96. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man, Woman 
 bathing; several works by David Teniers, Adrian van Ostade, and 
 Jan Steen-, 32. Ribera, Beggar-boy. — Then, returning towards 
 the entrance: 18. Tintoretto, Portrait of Pietro Mocenigo; *14. 
 Jac. Bassano, Adoration of the Magi, etc. — On the wall to the 1. 
 of the door, a portrait of La Caze, by himself (d. 1869). — Return¬ 
 ing through this gallery to the further door, we next enter the — 
 Salle Henri II., containing some large pictures by Prud'hon, 
 Boucher, Coypel, Van Duel, and Van Loo (on each side of the en¬ 
 trance). The door to the r. leads into a large saloon termed the — 
 Salle bus Sept Chemini5es , which contains the finest works 
 of the Modern French School: — 
 
 On the r.: 240. Gerard (d. 1837), portrait of the artist Isabey. 
 256. Granet (d. 1852), lower church of S. Francesco at Assisi. 
 
 *274. Gros (d. 1835), Bonaparte in the plague-hospital at Jaffa. 
 
96 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 252. Girodet-Trioson (d. 1824), Atala’s Interment, from the 
 work of Chateaubriand. 
 
 236. Gerard, Psyche receiving the first kiss of Cupid. 
 
 279, and opposite to it, 282. Guerin (d. 1833), Phaedra and 
 Hippolytus. 
 
 152. David (d. 1825), Belisarius asking alms. 
 
 *Gericault (d. 1824): *242. Shipwreck of the Medusa. To the 
 r. and l.,*243, *244. Hussar, and Cuirassier, two pictures purchased 
 in 1851 from the collection of Louis Philippe in the Palais Royal 
 for 23,400 fr. 
 
 159. David , Portrait of Pope Pius VII., painted in 1805. 
 
 84—86. Madame Lebrun, Portraits, the first two being those of 
 the artist and her daughter. 
 
 *459. Prud'hon (d. 1823), Crime pursued by Justice and Divine 
 Vengeance. 
 
 *275. Gros, Napoleon visiting the battle-field of Eylau. 
 
 Girodet : 251. Endymion asleep; 250. Scene from the Deluge. 
 
 David: *149. The Sabine women interpose between the Ro¬ 
 mans and Sabines; *148. Leonidas at Thermopyl®. 
 
 Turning our backs torvards the Salle Henri IT., we pass the 
 entrance to the Museum of Antiquities on the 1. and proceed to 
 the r. into the — 
 
 Salle des Bijoux, where a number of trinkets and ornaments 
 of the middle ages and Renaissance are exhibited. The decorative 
 paintings are by Mauzaisse. That on the ceiling represents Time 
 showing the ruins he has occasioned, and the master-pieces of art 
 which he reveals. The next room is the — 
 
 Salle Ronde, or Vestibule, with w 7 hich the visitor entering by 
 the Pavilion Denon usually begins. The ceiling is richly decorated 
 by Blondel, Couder, and Mauzaisse, with a representation of the 
 sun and the four elements as different subjects of poetry. On the 
 floor a beautiful mosaic. In the centre a handsome vase in white 
 marble. The fine wrought-iron door of the time of Henri II. on 
 the right leads to the — 
 
 *Galekie d’Aeollon. This saloon, which is about 70 yds. in 
 length, was constructed in the reign of Henri IV., burned down 
 in 1661 , rebuilt under Louis XIV. from designs of Charles le 
 Brun (1619—1690), who did not however finish the decoration, 
 was almost entirely neglected foracentUTy andalialf, butwas finally 
 completed in 1848—51. It is the most beautiful hall in the Louvre, 
 and is considered one of the finest in the world. It derives its 
 name from the ceiling-painting by Delacroix, representing ‘Apol¬ 
 lo’s Victory over the Python’. The vaulting is adorned with five 
 large paintings illustrative of the progress of day. Several others 
 around those in the centre represent the seasons, and in twelve 
 raised medallions are the months. The principal scenes, beginning 
 at the opposite end, next to the Seine, are: Aurora, by Muller, 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 97 
 
 after LeBrun; Castor, or the Morning star, by Renou, 1781; 
 Apollo, by Delacroix, already mentioned; Evening, or Morpheus, by 
 he Brun; Night, or Diana, also by Le Brun. Above the entrance 
 is a ‘Triumph of the Earth’, by Guichard, after Le Brun, and above 
 the opposite window is a ‘Triumph of the Waters’, by Le Brun 
 himself. Charles IX. was formerly supposed to have fired on the 
 people on the Night of St. Bartholomew from the window of this 
 hall (comp. p. 81). The panels of the walls are adorned with 
 *portraits of French artists in Gobelins tapestry, executed shortly 
 before the destruction of that far-famed institution in 1871 (p. 205). 
 The glass cabinets in the centre of the hall contain enamels, 
 jewellery, vases, drinking-cups, fayence. Others at the end of the 
 gallery contain historical curiosities which formerly belonged to the 
 Mus6e des Souverains : armour of Henri II.; sword and spurs of 
 Charlemagne, and a sceptre with his likeness; clasp of the cloak of 
 St. Louis, and his-sig net-r ing; the ‘main de justice’ of the Capet 
 dynasty; armour of Charles IX. ; reliquary of the 16th century. 
 
 The door to the r., near the end of the Galerie d’Apollon leads 
 to the — 
 
 **SALON CARRE. This saloon contains the gems of every 
 school in the gallery , but is somewhat imperfectly lighted. Each 
 picture deserves the most careful inspection. 
 
 On the right: 442. Perugino (d. 1524), Madonna and Child, 
 with St. Rosa, St. Catharine, and two angels, painted on wood ; 
 purchased from the King of Holland’s collection for 53,000 fr. 
 (2120 I.). 
 
 447. N. Poussin (d. 1665), Portrait of himself. 
 
 *465. Titian (Vecellio , d. 1576), Entombment of Christ. 
 
 28. Correggio ( Allegri , d. 1534), Sleeping Antiope, watched 
 by Jupiter in the form of a Satyr. 
 
 337. Guido Reni (d. 1642), Dejanira carried off by the cen¬ 
 taur Nessus. 
 
 242. Luini (d. after 1530), Salome, daughter of llerodias, 
 with the head of John the Baptist. 
 
 138. Annibale Carracci (d. 1609), The Virgin appearing to 
 St. Luke and St. Catharine. 
 
 403. Solari, or Solario, surnamed 11 Gobbo (d. 1509), Madonna 
 suckling the Child. 
 
 94. Bronzino (d. 1572), Portrait of a sculptor. 
 
 419. Rembrandt (d. 1669), Portrait of a woman. 
 
 239. Sebastiano del Piombo (Luciani , d. 1547), Meeting of 
 Mary and Elizabeth. 
 
 *104. Paolo Veronese (Caliari , d. 1588), The Repast in the 
 house of Simon the Pharisee, 31 ft. long, 141/ 2 ft- high. 
 
 *376. Raphael ( Sanzio , d. 1520), Virgin and sleeping Child, 
 with St. John. 
 
 BaiDEKER. Paris. 4th Edition. 
 
 7 
 
98 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 *471. Titian, Girl at her toilette, with a man holding a mirror 
 behind her, known as ‘Titien et sa maitresse’. 
 
 460. Rubens (A. 1640), Portrait of Helena Fourment, his sec¬ 
 ond wife, and two of his children. 
 
 **546 bis. Murillo (d. 1682), Conception of the Virgin, pur¬ 
 chased from the collection of Marshal Soult in 1852 for the en¬ 
 ormous sum of 615,300 fr. (24,612 I.). The artist has evidently 
 drawn his inspiration from the passage: ‘And there appeared a 
 great wonder in heaven; a woman clothed with the sun , and the 
 moon under her feet, and upon her head a crown of twelve 
 stars.’ Rev. XII. 1. 
 
 *121. G. Dow (d. about 1674), ‘La femme liydropique’, the 
 artist’s master-piece. 
 
 150. Van Dyck (d. 1641), Portrait of the President Richardot. 
 
 *378. Francesco Francia (Raibolini , d. 1517), Portrait of a 
 man, long regarded as a work of Raphael. 
 
 162. J. van Eyck (d. 1441), Virgin and Child crowned by 
 an angel, at her feet the donor of the picture. 
 
 204. Dom. Ghirlandajo (d. 1495), The Visitation. 
 
 *484. Leonardo da Vinci (d. 1519), Portrait of Mona Lisa, 
 wife of Francesco del Giocondo of Florence (‘la Joconde’). 
 
 546. Murillo , Conception of the Virgin, purchased in 1817 
 for 6000 fr. 
 
 378, 380, 381. Raphael , Three small pictures, Madonna, St. 
 Pllizabeth, The Infant Jesus caressing St. John, St. Michael, and 
 St. George. 
 
 **377. Raphael, The Holy Family, with the young St. John, 
 St. Elizabeth, and St. Joseph ( 6*/2 by 4^2 ft.). 
 
 140. An. Carracci, The dead Christ on the knees of the Virgin. 
 
 453. N. Poussin, Landscape, with Diogenes throwing away 
 his goblet. 
 
 87. Phil, de Champaigne (d. 1674), Portrait of Richelieu. 
 
 293. Metsu (d. 1658), Officer paying his respects to a lady. 
 
 *375. Raphael, Virgin and Child with St. John (‘La Belle 
 Jardiniere’). 
 
 526. Terburg (d. 1681), Officer offering gold to a woman. 
 
 228, 229. Claude Lorrain (Gelee, d. 1682), Quay, Landscape. 
 
 79. Phil, de Champaigne, Christ in the Sepulchre. 
 
 477. Rigaud (d. 1743), Portrait of the preacher Bossuet. 
 
 288. Memling (d. 1484), John the Baptist. 
 
 208. Holbein, the Younger (d. 1554), Erasmus of Rotterdam. 
 
 *481. Leonardo da Vinci, Virgin and Child, and St. Anna. 
 
 Without number, Antonello da Messina (d. after 1493), Portrait. 
 
 438. Andrea del Sarto (Vanucchi, d. 1530), Holy Family. 
 
 433. Rubens, Tomyris, Queen of the Scythians, causing the 
 head of Cyrus to be placed in a vessel filled with blood. 
 
 **103. Paolo Veronese, The Marriage at Cana, the largest 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 99 
 
 picture in the collection, 32 ft. long and 21 ft. high, occupying 
 almost one entire wall, containing numerous portraits: Eleanor 
 of Austria, the young Queen of France; behind her the court 
 jester; at her side Francis I., with a curious head dress; then 
 Mary of England in a yellow robe, Sultan Soliman near a negro 
 prince; at the corner of the table the Emperor Charles V. with 
 the golden fleece. The musicians are portraits of Venetian pain¬ 
 ters of the day. Paolo Veronese himself, in white, plays on the 
 violoncello, behind him Tintoretto with a similar instrument, on 
 the other side Titian with a bass viol, and Bassano with a flute. 
 
 *27. Correggio, St. Catharine dedicated to the Infant Jesus. 
 
 142. Van Dyck, Portrait of Charles I. of England. 
 
 382. Raphael, St. Michael conquering Satan. 
 
 *211. Holbein, the Younger , Anne of Cleves, fourth wife of 
 Henry VIII. of England. 
 
 The saloon which is parallel to the Salle d’Apollon and adjacent 
 to the Salon Carrd contains seven frescoes by Bernardino Luini, 
 transferred to canvas, the finest of them being an Adoration of the 
 Magi. At the end of this saloon is a door leading to the head of 
 the grand staircase of the Pavilion Denon. From the Salon Carre 
 we next enter the — 
 
 GRANDE GALERIE. This saloon is nearly '/ 4 M. in length, 
 but the half next the Tuileries is now undergoing repair. It con¬ 
 tains most of the works of the Italian, Spanish, German, Fle¬ 
 mish, and Dutch schools, the remainder being in the Salon Carre", 
 the Salle des Sept Metres (p. 104), and in the rooms upstairs 
 (p. 110). The pictures are arranged in chronological order, those 
 of the same master being placed as near together as possible. 
 H. denotes to the right, and L. to the left of the entrance from 
 the Salon Carre. 
 
 (The first door to the r. in this gallery leads to the Galerie des 
 Sept Metres, which contains a series of admirable Italian pictures 
 (p. 104). If the visitor prefer to inspect these immediately after 
 those of the same school in the first section of the Grande Galerie, 
 he should traverse the whole of the Galerie des Sept MtHres, and 
 begin at the farther end.) 
 
 I. Division. — Italian School. 
 
 The first pictures on the r. and 1. belong to the earliest Italian 
 schools. 
 
 R. 209. Giotto ( d. 1336), St. Francis of Assisi receiving the 
 stigmata. 
 
 L. 174. Cimabue (born in 1241), Madonna surrounded by Angels. 
 
 L. 196. Sandro Botticelli ( Alessandro Filipepi, d. 1515), Ma¬ 
 donna, the Child, and St. John, a small picture. 
 
 L. 214. Fra Giovanni da Fiesole, surnamed Angelico (9. 1455), 
 
 7* 
 
100 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 Coronation of the Virgin ; below are seven small pictures repre¬ 
 senting the miracles of St. Dominic. 
 
 L. 72. Benozzo Gozzoli ( cl. after 1485), Triumph of St. Thomas 
 Aquinas. 
 
 L. 234. Fra Filippo Lippi (d. 1469), Madonna and the Child 
 adored by two priests. 
 
 L. 214, bis. Giovanni di Pietro , surnamed Lo Spagna (d. after 
 1530), Nativity. 
 
 L. 292. Pinturicchio (Bernardino di Benedetto, d. 1512), Ma¬ 
 donna and Child, a small picture. 
 
 L. 318,ter. Francia, Crucifixion. 
 
 R. 486. Copy executed in the 16th cent, of Leonardo da Vinci’s 
 Last Supper at Milan. 
 
 L. *468. Titian, Jupiter and Antiope, known as the ‘Venus 
 del Pardo’. 
 
 L. 240. Luini, Holy Family, a small picture. 
 
 L. 158. Jacopo Pontormo (d. 1556), Portrait of an engraver 
 of precious stones, a small picture. 
 
 ( L. *464. Titian, Christ crowned with thorns. 
 
 R. *458. Titian, Madonna and Child with St. Stephen, St. 
 Ambrose, and St. Maurice. 
 
 R. 389. Copy of Raphael’s Madonna of Loreto. 
 
 R. 453. Giorgio Vasari (d. 1574), The Salutation. 
 
 L. 474. Titian, Portrait of a man. 
 
 L. 107. Paolo Veronese, The disciples at Emmaus; the other 
 figures are said to represent the painter and his family. 
 
 L. 108. P. Veronese, Portrait of a lady. 
 
 II. Division. — Italian and Spanish Schools. 
 
 R. 136. Annibale Carracci, Virgin and Child, St. Joseph offer¬ 
 ing cherries to the latter (‘La Vierge aux Cerises’). 
 
 L. 326. GuidoReni, Christ giving St. Peter the Keys of Heaven. 
 
 L. *372. Sassoferrato (Criou. Batt. Salvi, d. 1685), Madonna. 
 
 L. 328, 329, 332. Guido Reni, Ecce Homo, Penitent Magda¬ 
 lene, St. Sebastian. 
 
 L. 67. Battoni (d. 1787), Madonna, with downcast eyes and 
 her hands crossed on her breast. 
 
 L. 113. Canaletto (Canale , d. 1768), View of the Church of 
 S. Maria della Salute at Venice. 
 
 R. Without number, in a kind of niche, a fresco from La Mag- 
 liana (papal country-seat near Rome), attributed to Raphael, but 
 probably designed only by him and painted by Lo Spagna. The 
 Father and the angel to the r. may possibly have been executed 
 by the great master himself, but the Angel on the 1. and the Che¬ 
 rubim are in a very inferior style to his. 
 
 R. 207. Luca Giordano , surnamed Fa Presto (d. 1705), The In¬ 
 fant Jesus receiving from angels the instruments of his sufferings. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 101 
 
 R. 74. Pietro da Cortona (Berretini, d. 1669), Nativity of the Mary. 
 
 L. *360. Salvator Rosa (d. 1673), Skirmish among the ruins 
 of a temple. 
 
 L. 186. Dughet , suraamed Gaspard Poussin (d. 1675, bro¬ 
 ther-in-law of N. Poussin), Landscape. 
 
 L. 494. Domenichino (Zampieri , d. 1641), St. Cecilia. 
 
 ['L. 361. Salvator Rosa , Rocky landscape. 
 
 ‘ L. 555,bis. Velazquez (d. 1669), Philip IV. of Spain. 
 
 R. 57. Guercino (Barbieri , d. 1666), Circe. 
 
 L. 551. Murillo, Reggar-boy, ‘cherchant h detruire ce qui 
 1’incommode’. 
 
 L. 317. Procaccini (d. about 1626), Virgin and Child, adored 
 by John the Baptist, St. Francis, and St. Catharine. 
 
 L. 320. Guido Reni, David with Goliath’s head. 
 
 L. *546,ter. Murillo , Nativity of the Virgin, a very large 
 
 picture. 
 
 R. 550,bis. Murillo, Miracle of San Diego, or ‘The Angel's 
 Kitchen’ (a very wide picture). 
 
 L. *555. Velazquez, Portrait of the Infanta Margaretha Theresa 
 
 (d. 1673), first wife of Emperor Leopold I. 
 
 L. 547. Murillo, Virgin and Child, the latter playing with a 
 rosary (‘La Vierge au Chapelet’). 
 
 At the beginning of this section: 347. Daniele da Volterra (Ric- 
 ciarelli, d. 1566), David slaying Goliath, a picture with two sides. 
 
 111. Division. — German ani> Dutch Schools. 
 
 L. 279. Quintin Matsys , or Messys (d. 1530), Money-changer 
 and his wife. 
 
 L. *206. Holbein, the Younger, Portrait of Nic. Kratzer, a Ba¬ 
 varian, Astronomer-royal to Henry VIII. of England. 
 
 I L. *207. Holbein, William Warham, Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 IV. Division. — Dutch School. 
 
 L. 256, 253, 255. Jordaens (d. 1678), ‘Concert de famille’, 
 The four Evangelists, Feast of the Magi ('Le Roi Boit’). 
 
 Zi. 413, 414, 415. Rembrandt, Portraits of himself. 
 
 L. 416. Rembrandt, Portrait of an old man. 
 
 R. 151—155. Van Dyck , Portraits of men. 
 
 R. 105, 106. A. Cuyp (d. after 1672), Starting for a ride, 
 The ride. 
 
 L. 428, 464. Rubens, Virgin surrounded by saints, and a 
 small Landscape below. 
 
 R. 431, 459. Rubens, C rucifixion, and Portrait of Elizabeth of 
 France, daughter of Henri IV., and wife of Philip IV. of Spain. 
 
 R. 470. Ruisdael (d. 1681), Forest scene. 
 
 R. and L. 434—454 Rubens, A series of large pictures de¬ 
 signed by order of Marie de Medicis, second wife of Henri IV. 
 
102 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 of France, in commemoration of events in her life, destined to 
 adorn the Palais dn Luxembourg-, and executed partly by the ar¬ 
 tist himself, partly by his pupils, in 1621 — 25. The most suc¬ 
 cessful are: r. 454. Victory of Truth; l. 436. Education of the 
 Princess; l. 438. Her marriage (5th Oct., 1500); l. *441. Birth 
 of Louis XIII. 
 
 Under and between these pictures of Rubens, returning to the 
 beginning of the series: — 
 
 L. 512. Teniers, the Younger (A. 1694), The Prodigal Son, or 
 rather a scene in a tavern. 
 
 L. 472. Ruisdael, Landscape. 
 
 L. 518. Teniers, Tntdrieur de cabaret’. 
 
 L. 417. Rembrandt, Portrait of a youth. 
 
 L. 425, *458. Rubens, Departure of Lot; Portrait of Baron 
 Henri de Vicq, Dutch ambassador in Paris, purchased in 1850 
 from the collection of the King of Holland for 15,900 fr. (636 J.). 
 
 L. 412. Rembrandt, Portrait of himself. 
 
 L. and R. Several genre pictures by Dow (d. 1674), Mieris 
 (Francis , d. 1681 ; William, d. 1747), Ostade (Adrian and Isaac), 
 and Teniers. 
 
 L. 369. Adrian van Ostade (d. 1685), The painter himself 
 and his family. 
 
 R. 514. Teniers, Temptation of St. Antony. 
 
 R. 190. Fr. Hals (d. 1666), Portrait of Rend Descartes. 
 
 L. 224. Peter de Hooch, or Hooge, Interior of a Dutch dwel¬ 
 ling, with a party of men and women. 
 
 R. 129. Dow, ‘Lecture de la Bible’. 
 
 R. 567. Ph. Wouwerman (d. 1668), Departure for the hunt. 
 
 R. 41. Bol (d. 1680), Portrait of a mathematician. 
 
 R. 528. Terburg (d. 1681), Concert, young lady singing. 
 
 R. 143. Van Dyck, The children of Charles I. of England. 
 
 L. 527. Terburg, Music-lesson. 
 
 L. 147. Van Dyck, Portrait of Francis de Moncade. 
 
 R. 400. Potter (d. 1654), Oxen and sheep. 
 
 R. 137, 149. Van Dyck, Madonna, with the donors; Portraits 
 of a lady and her daughter. 
 
 L. 152, 145, 154, 153. Van Dyck, Portraits of himself and 
 several others. 
 
 462. Rubens, Village feast. 
 
 We now return to the nearest door to the L, and enter the 
 saloons of the — 
 
 French School. 
 
 The first three rooms contain the French masters prior to Louis XIV. 
 
 1st Room. Older Pictures. Among them : Death of Christ and 
 saints on a gold ground; series of portraits by Francois Clouet, 
 surnamed Janet (d. 1572) and his pupils. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 103 
 
 2nd Room. Twenty-two pictures by Eustache Lesueur (d. 1655) 
 from the life of St. Bruno. 
 
 3rd Room. Mythological scenes, chiefly by Lesueur. 
 
 4th Room. Fifteen large sea-pieces by Joseph Vernet [ d. 1789), 
 representing the harbours of France. 
 
 We now traverse a passage, leading to a large, oblong hall, 
 principally dedicated to pictures by Nicholas Poussin (d. at Rome, 
 1665) and by Claude Lorrain {Gelee, d. at Rome, 1682), most of 
 which deserve careful inspection. Among them may be mentioned, 
 on the right wall : 
 
 I. French Gallery. 435. Nicholas Poussin, Rape of the 
 Sabines. Above it — 
 
 298. Jean Jouvenet (d. 1717), Raising of Lazarus. 
 
 521. E. Lesueur , St. Raul preaching at Ephesus. 
 
 297. Jouvenet, Miraculous draught of fishes. Below it — 
 v222. Claude Lorrain, Seaport at sunset. 
 
 496. Santerre (d. 1717), Susanna bathing. 
 
 225. Claude Lorrain, Ulysses restoring Chryseis to her father. 
 
 On the le/'t wall, beginning at the same end as before: — 
 
 415, 432. Nicholas Poussin, Rebecca at the well, Baptism in 
 the Jordan. 
 
 475. Rigaud (d. 1743), Portrait of Louis XIV. 
 
 349. Mignard (d. 1695), The Virgin with a bunch of grapes. 
 
 446. Poussin, Time rescues Truth from the attacks of Envy 
 and Discord, ordered by Cardinal Richelieu as a ceiling-painting. 
 
 223. Cl. Lorrain, Disembarkation of Cleopatra at Tarsus. 
 
 476. Rigaud, Philip V. of Spain (d. 1746). Above it — 
 
 76. C. Lebrun (d. 1690), Death of Meleager. 
 
 We next enter a lofty saloon with vaulted ceiling, called the — 
 
 Salon Denon, containing four large pictures by C. Lebrun 
 from the life of Alexander. In the four lunettes of the ceiling 
 are paintings by C. Muller, relating to the history of French art: 
 St. Louis and the Sainte Chapelle, Francis I. in the studio of one 
 of his artists, Louis XIV. beginning the construction of the Louvre, 
 Napoleon I. directing the Louvre to be completed. To the r. of 
 this is situated the Salle des Etats, in which the annual opening 
 of the Chambers by Napoleon III. formerly took place. The next 
 room is the — 
 
 II. French Gallery, with pictures by modern French masters. 
 On the right: — 
 
 329. C. van Loo (d. 1765), Hunters’ breakfast. 
 
 262, 261, *263. Greuze (d. 1805), The son chastised. The 
 paternal curse. The broken pitcher. 
 
 330. C. van Loo, Maria Lesczinska, Queen of Louis XV. 
 *82. Madame Lebrun (Elisabeth Louise Vigee, d. 1842), Portrait 
 
 of herself and daughter. 
 
104 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 260. Greuze, The paternal blessing. 
 
 276. Gros (d. 1835), Francis I. and Charles V. visiting the 
 tombs of St. Denis. 
 
 154. David (d. at Brussels, 1825), Paris and Helen. 
 
 633. C. Vernet (d. 1835; father of Horace, and son of Joseph), 
 Hunting scene in the forest of Meudon. Higher up — 
 
 *281. Guerin (d. at Rome 1833), /Eneas relating to Dido the 
 fate of Troy. 
 
 On the end wall: — 
 
 499. Sigulon (d. 1837), The love-letter. 
 
 *494, *493. L. Robert (d. at Venice 1835), Festival of the Ma¬ 
 donna dell’ Arco at Naples; Arrival of reapers in the Pontine 
 marshes. 
 
 On the left side, beginning at the same end as before : —• 
 
 577. Tocque (d. 1772), Portrait of Maria Lesczinska. 
 
 150. David, Oath of the Iloratii. 
 
 321. Lethi'ere (d. 1832), Brutus condemning his sons to death. 
 
 235. Gerard (d. 1837), Entry of Henri IV. into Paris. 
 
 The visitor is sometimes obliged , on reaching the end of this 
 gallery, to retrace his steps through the French saloons and the 
 Grande Galerie in order to reach the Galerie des Sept Metres and 
 the other collections on tho first floor. If the door of egress of the 
 2nd French Gallery is open , the route is greatly shortened; but, 
 in any case, the order to be followed is the same after the Galerie 
 des Sept Metres has been entered. 
 
 The door at the end of the last French saloon, near Robert’s 
 Reapers, leads to the top of the grand staircase. Here, immedia¬ 
 tely to the r., is the entrance to the — 
 
 Galerie des Sept Metres, so called from its breadth (23 ft.), 
 which contains a number of admirable pictures of the Italian school. 
 
 On the wall to the right of the entrance next to the Grande 
 Galerie : — 
 
 252. Andrea Mantegna (d. 1506), Wisdom conquers Vice. 
 
 43. Giorgione (Barbarelli, d. 1511), Holy Family, saints, and 
 donor. 
 
 472. Titian, Portrait of a man. 
 
 *384. Raphael, Portrait of the Princess Joanna of Arragon. 
 
 89. Bordone (d. 1570), Portrait of a man. 
 
 437. Andrea del Sarto, Caritas, a woman with three children. 
 
 88. Bordone, Vertumnus and Pomona. 
 
 *95. Johann Stephan of Calcar (born at Calcar on the Lower 
 Rhine in 1499, d. at Naples in 1546, one of Titian’s best pupils), 
 Portrait of a man. 
 
 469. Titian, Portrait of Francis I. of France. 
 
 *277. Palma, '■11 Veccldo’ (d. 1548), Adoration of the Shepherds. 
 
 241. Luini, The Child asleep. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 105 
 
 On the left wall, beginning from the same end as before: — 
 
 *251. Andrea Manteyna, Parnassus, or Dance of the Muses, 
 an allegory. 
 
 470. Titian, Portrait of Alphonso of Avalos, Marquis of Guasto, 
 commander of the armies of the Emperor Charles V. in Italy, and 
 a young lady to whom Cupid, Flora, and Zephyr are doing homage. 
 
 99. P. Veronese, Ahasuerus and Esther (‘L’Evanouissement 
 d’Esther’). 
 
 459. Titian, Holy Family with St. Catharine and a white rabbit 
 (/La Vierge au Lapin’). 
 
 480. Leonardo da Vinci, John the Baptist. 
 
 *385. Raphael, Portrait of a youth, erroneously said to be 
 Raphael himself. 
 
 483, *482. L. da Vinci, Portrait of a woman, The Virgin in 
 the Sepulchre. 
 
 379. Raphael, St. Margaret. 
 
 283. Raphael, Portrait of Count Balthasar Castiglione. 
 
 173. Cima da Coneyliano (d. after 1517), Virgin and saints. 
 
 186. Raphael, Portrait. 
 
 On leaving this saloon we retrace our steps through the Salon 
 Carrd, the Galerie d’Apollon, and theSalle des Bijoux (pp. 96, 97), 
 and again reach the Salle des Sept Chemine'es, where visitors 
 who have not yet seen the Collection La Caze turn to the 1. to visit 
 it, or where, if disposed, they may quit the palace by the Pavilion 
 de l’Horloge (p. 114). We now continue our visit to the collections 
 of the first floor by passing through the door in the corner, on the 
 side next to the Seine, which leads to the — 
 
 Musee Campana. 
 
 This gallery, sometimes called the Galerie da Bord de VEuu, or 
 Musie Napoleon III., runs parallel to the Muse'e des Antiquite's, 
 which we shall visit afterwards. The Musee Campana contains an 
 admirable collection of Etruscan and Greek vases, Greek and Phoe¬ 
 nician inscriptions, busts, tombstones, idols, bronzes, statuettes, 
 antiquities from Rhodes and Cyprus, and other curiosities, some 
 of them belonging to the Campana Collection, which was purcha¬ 
 sed from the pontifical government in 1861 for 4,364,000 fr., as 
 well as others brought from Syria by E. Renan, from Macedonia 
 and Thessaly by Heuzey and Daumet, and from Asia Minor by 
 Perrault and Guillaume. 
 
 1st Room: Phoenician inscriptions; statues, statuettes, busts, 
 and inscriptions from Cyprus; vases, bottles, and terracottas from 
 Rhodes; in the cabinets by the window amulets and ornaments from 
 different districts of Syria, Moabitisli pottery, etc. Ceiling-painting 
 by Alaux: Nicholas Poussin being presented to Louis XIII. 
 
 2nd Room: Red vases for domestic purposes, amphora;, gob- 
 
106 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 lets, etc. — Ceiling by Steuben: Battle of Ivry; Clemency of 
 Henri IV. after the victory; medallions of celebrated men who 
 flourished in his reign. 
 
 3rd Room : Etruscan vases, beginning with those of the rudest 
 form. — Ceiling by E. Deverid: P. Puget presenting the group of 
 Milon of Crotona (p. 89) to Louis XIV. in the gardens of Ver¬ 
 sailles; medallions representing the principal institutions founded 
 by Louis XIV., and other works by Puget. 
 
 4th Room: Etruscan terracottas, reliefs, cinerary urns, etc. — 
 Ceiling by Fragonard: .Francis I. receiving pictures and statues 
 brought from Italy by Primaticcio. 
 
 5tli Room: Vases of the most ancient style. — Ceiling by 
 Heim : Revival of the arts in France, with analogous subjects in 
 the lunettes. , 
 
 6th Room: Ancient vases. — Ceiling by Fragonard-. Francis I. 
 knighted by Bayard. 
 
 7th Room : Vases of more modern style. — Ceiling by Sclmetz: 
 Charlemagne receiving Alc.uin, who presents to him MSS. written 
 by his monks. 
 
 8th Room : Small terracottas, drinking-cups, etc. — Ceiling by 
 Drolling : Louis XII. saluted as father of his people by the states 
 general at Tours. 
 
 9th Room: Objects in glass; ^frescoes from houses of Pompeii, 
 presented in 1825 by Francis I. of Naples. — *Ceiling by Leon 
 Cogniet: Bonaparte in Egypt. 
 
 The last room of the Muse'e Campana communicates to the 1. 
 with the first room of the Musde des Antiquitds. Before visiting 
 the latter we may glance at a suite of rooms on the E. side of the 
 Old Louvre, which however contain few objects of interest. In or¬ 
 der to reach them we leave the first room of the Museum of Anti¬ 
 quities by the door to the r., and turn to 1. on the spacious landing 
 at the top of the stair, where a sitting statue of Ramses II. , a co¬ 
 lossal black statue of Isis, and several sarcophagi and other statues 
 are placed. (From this landing the visitor may descend to the great 
 hall of the Egyptian Museum, from which there is an egress on 
 this side ; see p. 86.) 
 
 E. Side op Old Louvre. The vestibule contains portraits of 
 Louis XIII. and his wife Anne of Austria and five large vases of 
 Sevres porcelain. 
 
 1st Room, with an alcove in which Henri IV. breathed his 
 last: portraits of that monarch and his second wife Marie de Me- 
 dicis. 
 
 2nd Room, formerly a chapel of the Ordre du St. Esprit: por¬ 
 trait of Henri II., silk tapestry of the 16th cent., handsome wains¬ 
 coting, a statue of Peace, or Abundance, in massive silver, by 
 Chaudet (d. 1810), presented by the city to Napoleon I., and saved 
 from the fire at the Tuileries in 1871. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 J 07 
 
 3rd Room: Statue of Henri IV., when a child, in silver, by 
 Bosio (d. 1745), and two Oriental saddles. 
 
 The other rooms on this side, which formerly contained the 
 Musee des Souverains, are now empty, but will probably be devoted 
 to an Oriental Museum. The pictures of the Musee Napoleon Ill. 
 which were formerly here have also been removed , and are not at 
 present exhibited. 
 
 If we traverse all these empty saloons we reach the Musee de 
 la Renaissance (p. 109), the stair to the second floor, and that 
 which descends to the Mus6e Assyrien, where there is an exit 
 (p. 85). But we now return to visit the ■—- 
 
 Musee des Antiquites. 
 
 This very valuable collection, which is also known as the Musee 
 Charles X. , consists of the smaller Egyptian , Greek , Etruscan, and 
 Roman Antiquities. The ceiling-paintings date from 1827 and a 
 few years immediately following. We begin our visit from the stair 
 ascending from the Egyptian Museum on the ground-floor, at the 
 opposite end from the Salle des Sept Cheminees. 
 
 1st Room: Mummies, inscriptions on stone, bronze utensils, 
 arms, scarabad. — Ceiling by Gross ‘Le genie de la France anime 
 l’art et secoure 1 humanite’. — The four next rooms also contain 
 Egyptian antiquities. 
 
 2nd Room: Egyptian utensils, arms, vases, materials for dress, 
 costumes, ornaments, wood-carving. — *Ceiling by Horace Vernet: 
 Pope Julius II. giving orders to Bramante, Michael Angelo, and 
 Raphael regarding the works of the Vatican and St. Peter’s. 
 
 3rd Room: Mummies, scarabaei, hieroglyphics on cloth and 
 papyrus. Bust of Champollion, the celebrated Egyptologist.—Ceil¬ 
 ing by Abel de Pujol: Egypt delivered by Joseph. 
 
 4th Room: Amulets, hieroglyphics on stone (scarabiei), small 
 figures of animals, statues in bronze, idols, Isis and Osiris, figures 
 in painted terracotta. — Ceiling by Picot : Study and Genius un¬ 
 veiling Egypt to Greece. 
 
 5th Room : Salle des Colonnes. — Ceiling by Gross Glory rests 
 on Virtue. 
 
 6th Room : Etruscan vases in glass cases. — Ceiling by Picot : 
 Cybele protecting the towns of Stabiae, Herculaneum, and Pompeii 
 from destruction. 
 
 7th Room : Beautiful Greek terracottas, statuettes, urns, etc. — 
 Ceiling by Meynier: Nymphs of Parthenope (Naples) conducted by 
 the goddess of the fine arts to the banks of the Seine. 
 
 8th Room: Etruscan vases, the largest and finest being on the 
 table (found in the S. of Italy). — Ceiling by Heim: Vesuvius 
 personified receives from Jupiter the fire for the destruction of 
 Herculaneum and Pompeii. 
 
108 
 
 3. LOUVRE. 
 
 9th Room : Crystal and enamelled -vases. —*Ceiling by Ingres: 
 Apotheosis of Homer. 
 
 This last room adjoins the Salle des Sept Chemine'es, which 
 we have already visited. We now turn to the r., re-traverse that 
 saloon, the Salle ITenri II., and the Collection La Caze, beyond 
 which we reach the staircase of the Pavilion Sully on the L, and 
 adjoining it the former chapel of the Old Louvre, which is en¬ 
 tered by a door of handsome workmanship, and contains the —■ 
 
 Ancient Bronzes, a valuable collection of implements, weapons, 
 statuettes, etc. In the centre-cabinet are preserved ornaments in 
 gold and silver, mirrors, buckles, keys, seals, bracelets; also a 
 gilded helmet found at Amfreville in the De'partement de l’Eure, 
 in 1861. By the window a gilded bronze statue of Apollo, over 
 life-size; 1. archaic Apollo, seats, candelabra, busts, and sta¬ 
 tuettes. In the cabinet on the r. several toilet caskets with 
 engraving, found at Palestrina near Rome, vases, lamps, etc. In the 
 cabinets by the wall are statuettes; to the 1. a beautiful selection 
 of Roman helmets, shields, swords, lances, and other weapons. 
 
 Leaving the Salle des Bronzes by the same door, and turning 
 our backs on the Collection La Caze, we follow a Corridor , adorned 
 with copies in bronze of celebrated antiques, which leads to the — 
 
 Collection of Drawings. 
 
 This Musee des Dessins occupies half the N. and W. wings of 
 the first floor of the Old Louvre. The collection is extremely val¬ 
 uable, being chiefly important to the student of art, but in some 
 respects interesting to amateurs also. The plates are all preserved 
 under glass. Catalogue in 2 vols., 3 fr. 
 
 1st Room. Old Italian masters: Mantegna, Lorenzo di Credi, 
 etc. — Ceiling-painting by Btondel: France victorious at Bouvines. 
 
 2nd Room. Italian. Drawings by the most celebrated masters : 
 Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, and Andrea 
 del Sarto, some by Leonardo particularly well executed. — Ceiling- 
 painting by Btondel: France receiving the ‘Charte 1 from LouisXVII1. 
 
 3rd Room. Italian. Drawings, two of them in chalks, by Cor¬ 
 reggio. ■ —Ceiling-painting by Drolling: Law descends to earth. 
 
 4th Room. Bolognese School. — Ceiling-painting by Mauzaisse: 
 Divine Wisdom giving laws to Kings and Lawgivers. 
 
 5th Room. Netherlandish and German : Diirer, Holbein, Ru¬ 
 bens, Rembrandt, Teniers, etc. On the wall to the 1., *565. Battle 
 of knights, by Rubens after Leonardo da Vinci. (A door in the 
 corner to the 1. leads to a stair ascending to the Musde de Marine.) 
 
 6th Room. This is a passage with chalk drawings, chiefly 
 portraits, by Vivien, Mme Oujard, etc. 
 
 7th Room. Claude Lorrain, N. Poussin, Lesueur. 
 
 8th Room. Lesueur, Designs of the ‘Life of St. Bruno’ ( p. 103). 
 
 9th Room. French School. Charles Lebrun. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 109 
 
 10th Room. Modem French School. Antoine Watteau. 
 
 11th Room. Modern French School. A large unfinished oil- 
 painting by David (d. 1825) preserved here represents the re¬ 
 volutionary meeting at the Jeu de Paume (p. 238). One of the 
 four finished heads is that of Mirabeau. The nude figures show 
 the care which the master used to bestow on anatomical proportions. 
 
 12th Room. Crayons, miniatures, drawings, Chinese pictures. 
 
 13th Room. Drawings of the early French School. 
 
 14th Room. Crayons, chiefly portraits, by Perronceau, Char¬ 
 din, etc. 
 
 The following room belongs to the Musee Napoleon 111., and 
 is the first of those containing the — 
 
 Musee de la Renaissance. 
 
 1st Room. By the wall opposite the window: * Altar-piece of 
 the end of the 14th cent., about 6 ft. in height, a masterpiece 
 of carving in ivory; in the centre is the history of Christ, on the 
 1. that of John the Baptist, on the r. that of St. John the Evan¬ 
 gelist, represented in 71 different reliefs; below are the Apostles. 
 This admirable work was brought from the town of Poissy. 
 
 2nd Room, or Salle Sauvageot. Collection of miniatures, carved 
 wood, and mediaeval vases, bequeathed to the Louvre by M. Sau- 
 vageot. Between the windows a life-size portrait of Henri II. 
 
 3rd Room. Mediaeval Glass and Porcelain. Opposite the win¬ 
 dow a Glass Mosaic, representing the lion of Venice, executed 
 by Antonio Fasolo in the manufactory of Murano in the 16th cent. 
 
 4th Room. Metallic and Bronze Articles, such as knives, locks, 
 and embossed plates. Two interesting Bronze Reliefs , placed op¬ 
 posite to each other, one by each lateral wall, are from originals 
 executed in marble by Pierre Bontemps in 1552 for the tomb of 
 Francis I. at St. Denis. Opposite the window is a beautiful Ena¬ 
 mel Picture from the manufactory of Limoges, representing the 
 history of the Passion. 
 
 5th Room. *Fayence by the celebrated Bernard de Palissy (d. 
 1589), chiefly consisting of dishes adorned with snakes, frogs, 
 lizards, fishes, and plants, moulded from nature. 
 
 6th and 7th Rooms. Italian Fayence and old furniture in oak. 
 Adjacent is a small Vestibule with terracottas. 
 
 We have now seen all the collections on the first floor of the 
 Louvre which are at present open to the public. There still remain 
 to be visited the supplementary picture saloons, the Musee de Marine, 
 and the Musee Ethnographique on the Second Floor. It need hardly 
 be said that many visits are requisite to enable the traveller to form 
 even a superficial acquaintance with these vast and matchless treas¬ 
 ures of art. Those who at this point desire to quit the building will 
 find, beyond the vestibule , a stair which descends to the Assyrian 
 Museum, where there is an egress. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 1 10 
 
 C. SECOND FLOOR. 
 
 The second floor, which contains pictures, and the marine and 
 ethnographical museums, is reached by a stair from the vestibule of 
 the Muse'e de la Renaissance, either after we have visited the latter 
 (door to the L), or by ascending directly from the Assyrian Museum 
 (p. 85) and passing through the door facing us. The small stair 
 in the vestibule, to the r. when approached from the side next 
 the colonnade, ascends to a landing, where we turn to the 1. and en¬ 
 ter a suite of rooms containing — 
 
 Pictures. 
 
 The three :>: Salles Supplementaires, which form a continuation 
 of the Picture Gallery on the first floor, contain some fine works of 
 the Flemish and Dutch schools, which had better be visited before 
 the rest of the second floor, as they cannot generally be reached 
 from the Marine Museum unless the visitor descends thence to the 
 first floor, traverses the Renaissance Museum , and ascends to the 
 second floor by another stair. 
 
 I. Room. To the right: 84,82. Ph. de Champaigne, Landscape, 
 St. Philip; 467. Rubens (?), Diogenes seeking for a man; 78,75. 
 Champaigne, Christ crucified, Landscape; 515. Teniers, Younger, 
 Head of the village. 
 
 On the following walls: 97. Craesbeke (d. 1641), The master 
 himself painting a portrait; 215. Honthorst, Pilate washing his 
 hands before the people; 27. Berghem (d. 1624), Landscape and 
 cattle; *292. Metsu, Vegetable-market at Amsterdam; 329. Mig- 
 non(d. 1679), Chaffinch’s nest; 242. K. duJardin(d. 1678), Calvary. 
 
 6. Backhuysen (d. 1709), Quay; 240. J. van Huy sum (d. 
 1749), Large vase adorned with reliefs and filled withflowers; 251. 
 Jordaens, Christ driving out the money-changers. 
 
 109. Cuyp , Quay; 494. Snyders, Dogs in a larder; 31. Bloemart 
 (d. 1658), Nativity. 
 
 376. J. van Oost, Elder (d. 1671), S. Carlo Borromeo adminis¬ 
 tering the sacrament to plague-patients; 287. J. van der Meer 
 ( d. 1711), Entrance to an auberge ; 33rlN Ostade, Frozen canal in 
 Holland ; without number, De Crayer, Adoration of the Infant Jesus. 
 
 II. Room. To the right: Both (d. 1650), Landscape; 267. 
 Elevens (d. 1663), The Virgin visiting Elizabeth; 144. Van Dyck, 
 Portraits ofCharles Lewisl. ofBavaria and his brother Rupert; 411. 
 Rembrandt , Venus and Cupid; 516. Teniers, Younger, Tavern near 
 a river; SQl.Pourbus, Younger, Marie de Medicis, Queen of France ; 
 174. Francken (d. 1642?), Prodigal son; 378. Ostade, Frozen canal 
 in Holland; 573. Wouwerman, Cavalry attack. 
 
 555. Weenix, The spoils of the chase; 392. Pourbus, Last Sup¬ 
 per; 60. J. Velvet’) Breughel, Battle of Arbela; 490. Snyders, 
 Animals entering the Ark. 
 
 139. Van Dyck, St. Sebastian succoured by angels; 557. A. 
 
3. LOUVRE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 van der Werff (d. 1722), Adam and Eve under the tree of know¬ 
 ledge; 166, 167. C. van Falens, Rendezvous, and Halt of sports¬ 
 men ; 124. Dow , The trumpet, a small picture; 4£ji. Rubens, Re¬ 
 conciliation of Marie de Medicis with her son Louis XIII.; Van 
 Dyck, Portraits of a man and child ; 471. Ruisdael, Storm off the 
 dykes in Holland; 455. Rubens, Portrait of Francis I. de Medicis, 
 father of Marie; 20. Berghem, Watering-place; 149. Van Dyck, 
 Portraits of a lady and her daughter; 17. Denner, Portrait of a wo¬ 
 man ; 452. Rubens, Conclusion of peace ; 140. Van Dyck, Venus 
 asks Vulcan for arms for .Eneas; 257. Jordaens , Portrait of Ad¬ 
 miral Ruyter. 
 
 553. Weenix, Pirates repulsed; Ostade, Man of business. 
 
 III. Room. On the right: 136. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child. 
 
 429. Rubens, The prophet Elijah in the wilderness. 
 
 554. J. Weenix, Game and the implements of the chase. 
 
 500. J. Steen, Flemish festival in a tavern. 
 
 Retracing our steps, and quitting the picture saloons by the door 
 by which we entered, we reach to the 1. the door of the — 
 
 Musee de Marine. 
 
 This valuable collection consists of various objects connected 
 with ship-building and navigation , such as models of vessels and 
 machines, plans and drawings of harbours and piers, weapons 
 and relics of historical interest. For the ordinary visitor, the fol¬ 
 lowing objects are the most interesting: — 
 
 1st Room. The French fleet from 1786 to 1824. Beyond 
 it: 33. Model representing the taking down and embarkation of 
 the obelisk of Luxor (p. 121); 34. Erection of the obelisk in 
 the Place de la Concorde. On the principal wall is a monument 
 erected by English residents in France to the memory of the 
 heroic Lieutenant Bellot of the French navy , who perished on 
 an Arctic expedition in 1853. 
 
 2nd Room. 150. Machine for adjusting the masts of a ship. 
 3. Relief-plan of the town and harbour of Brest; Models of ships. 
 
 3rd Room. Models of pumps and machines; 349. Ship in the 
 stocks about to be launched; 5. Relief-plan of the town and 
 harbour of Lorient; 522. Model of the ‘Valmy’, a ship of the 
 line of the first class. 
 
 4th Room. 621. Large model of a 120-gun ship, occupying 
 the whole room. 
 
 5th Room. 659. The ‘Rivoli’, a vessel of the third class, re¬ 
 presented on the ‘chameaux’ (^floats for lifting vessels over shallows), 
 which enabled it to leave the port of Venice fully equipped ; 719. The 
 ‘Sphinx’, a steam corvette of 11 guns launched at Rochefort in 1829. 
 
 6th Room. 885 to 958. Large obelisk composed of relics 
 of the frigates ‘Boussole’ and ‘Astrolabe’, which had been sent 
 on a voyage of discovery under Captain de Laperouse in 1788, 
 
112 
 
 3. LOUVRE, 
 
 and foundered at sea. Traces of the ill-fated expedition having 
 been discovered by the English Captain Dillon in the island of 
 Ticopia in 1828, with the aid of an inhabitant who had once been 
 a Prussian sailor, a French vessel was despatched for the purpose 
 of bringing home the relics. 956. Letter written by Lape'rouse. 
 Busts of celebrated French navigators and naval heroes; among 
 them, 780. Bust of Laperouse. — Model of a monument erected 
 to his memory at Port Jackson, with English and French in¬ 
 scriptions. 
 
 7th Room. 663. Model of the ‘Belle Poule’, a 50-gun vessel 
 fully rigged; 720. Engines of the Sphinx. 
 
 8th Room. Rigging and ships’ chains. Two relief-plans of 
 Toulon, dating from 1790 and 1850. 
 
 9th Room. 648. ‘L’Oc^an’, a man-of-war of the first class 
 carrying 118 guns, of the end of the 18th century. Fire-arms of 
 various calibres. 192, 193. ‘Orgues’ with live and seven barrels. 
 
 10th Room. ‘L’Aehille’. Near the door the ‘Plongeur’, a sub¬ 
 marine vessel. Large geographical globe. 
 
 11th Room. 640. Model of the ‘Louis XV.’, a large man-of- 
 war of the middle of last century. 637. Model of ‘La R6ale’, an 
 admiral’s ship built near the end of the 17th cent, and artistically 
 adorned by the celebrated sculptor Puget (p. 89). The original 
 carving in gilded wood (No. 760 — 775) hangs on the wall. 
 
 12th Room. In the centre, models of all the vessels compos¬ 
 ing the French fleet in 1862. Beyond them , part of the Musee 
 Ethnogruphique: arms, implements, and various curiosities from 
 Central Africa, most of them presented by M. Delaporte, con¬ 
 sul at Cairo. Near the door: 32. Hauling ashore of‘Le Majes- 
 tueux’, a vessel of the first class. 
 
 13th Room. Nothing noteworthy. 
 
 Musee Ethnographique. 
 
 This museum comprises collections of Chinese, Japanese, Ameri¬ 
 can, and other curiosities. The large saloon at the end of the Musee 
 de Marine and the adjoining rooms contain an extensive and val¬ 
 uable collection of curiosities brought home by French navigators, 
 and of the spoil captured in various French naval expeditions, 
 chiefly from India, China, Japan, and Mexico. 
 
 Vases and utensils in gold and silver, Indian idols, pictures, 
 wooden vases, trophies of arms ; statuettes, stuffs ; two Chinese ca¬ 
 noes ; clock of the Dey of Algiers; model of the pagoda of Jugger¬ 
 naut in India, surmounted by the image of Wischnu, the princi¬ 
 pal deity of the Indians, to whose shrine every Indian is bound 
 to make a pilgrimage at least once in his life; model of the 
 chariot of Juggernaut at Chandernagore. 
 
 Among the Chinese curiosities are interesting specimens of 
 porcelain, paintings, chests, idols, models of edifices, and weapons. 
 
4. TUILERTES. 
 
 113 
 
 The Musee Americain , which is at present closed, is the be¬ 
 ginning of a collection of implements, tools, idols, and ornaments, 
 most of them in stone, from Mexico, Chili, and Peru, resem¬ 
 bling in many respects the Egyptian antiquities, and proving that 
 the aboriginal inhabitants of America had, like the ancient Egyptians, 
 attained to a considerable degree of civilisation by independent 
 development before the discovery of America by Columbus (1492). 
 
 Having completed our inspection of the second floor, we now 
 pass through the door in the corner of the large Saloon of the 
 Ethnographical Museum, on the same side as the one by which we 
 entered, and descend to the first floor where we reach the saloon of 
 the drawings marked No. 5 in the plan (p. 93), in the N. W. angle 
 of the Old Louvre. From this point we may reach either the Esca- 
 lier Henri II. in the pavilion Sully (p. 95), by turning to the right, 
 or the stair descending to the Assyrian Museum (p. 85) by turn¬ 
 ing to the left and re-traversing the Renaissance Museum. 
 
 4. The Tuileries. 
 
 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. Palais el Jurdin des Tuileries. 
 
 Between the Louvre and the Tuileries extends a vast quad¬ 
 rangle, formed partly by Napoleon I., and partly by Napo¬ 
 leon III., by the demolition of the narrow and tortuous streets 
 and lanes which once occupied this site. This space is divided 
 into three parts: (1) the Place Napoleon, already mentioned 
 (p. 83), forming a square with gardens between the W. side of 
 the Old Louvre and the two inner wings of the New Louvre; (2) 
 the Place du Carrousel, which is more than double the size of the 
 last; and (3) the Cour des Tuileries, separated from the Place du 
 Carrousel by a railing. 
 
 The Place du Carrousel derives its name from a tournament held 
 here by Louis XIV. in 1662. In front of the central entrance to the 
 court of the Tuileries, rises the — 
 
 *Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, 47 ft. in height, 63 ft. in width, 
 and 20 ft. in thickness, and consisting of three lateral and one 
 transverse arcade. It was erected by Napoleon I. in 1806 in 
 imitation of the triumphal arches of Constantine and Severus at 
 Rome, and although a handsome structure, it is too small to harmonise 
 with the vast dimensions of the surrounding palaces. The Marble 
 Reliefs on the front of the arch represent (r.) the battle of Auster- 
 litz and (1.) the taking of Ulm; those at the back, (t.) the con¬ 
 clusion of peace at Tilsit and (1.) the entry into Munich; those 
 on the N. side, the entry into Vienna; those on the S. side, the 
 Peace of Pressburg. 
 
 Each facade is embellished with four Corinthian columns in 
 red marble, with bases and capitals in bronze, and bearing Marble 
 Statues of soldiers of the empire in their respective uniforms ; 
 
 B*dkkkr. Paris. 4th Edition. g 
 
114 
 
 4. TUILERIES. 
 
 in front a cuirassier, dragoon, chasseur-h-cheval, and carabinier; 
 at the back a grenadier, carabinier, artillery-man, and sapper. 
 
 The arch is surmounted by a Quadriga, or chariot -with four 
 horses, a group in bronze designed by Bosio, replacing the cele¬ 
 brated horses of Lysippus with which Napoleon originally adorned 
 the arch, but which were restored by the allies in 1814 to their 
 former position over the portal of St. Mark’s at Venice. 
 
 Inscription : — Uarmee franpaise embarquee d, Boulogne mena- 
 f ait VAngleterre; une troisiime coalition eclate sur le continent, les 
 Fran(ais volent de VOcean au Danube, la Baviere est delivree, I’ar- 
 mee autrichienne prisonni'ere d Dim, Napoleon entre dans Vienne, il 
 triornphe d Austerlitz, en moins de cent jours la coalition est dissoute. 
 — On the sides : — Maitre des etats et de son ennemi, Napoleon 
 les lui rend, il signe la paix le 27 dec. 1805 dans la capitale de la 
 Hongrie, occupee par son armee victorieuse. And: — Ilonneur d la 
 grande armee victorieuse d Austerlitz en Moravie le 2. dec. 1805, 
 jour anniversaire du couronnement de Napoleon. 
 
 The Place du Carrousel serves as a route of communication 
 between the Rue de Rivoli and the Quai des Tuileries, and is 
 at present the only point where carriages may cross the space, 
 2/3 M. in length, between the Place du Louvre and the Place de 
 la Concorde; but a new road is about ot be constructed across the 
 Jardin des Tuileries. 
 
 Besides the grand entrance by the triumphal arch , the Cour 
 des Tuileries has two other large entrances at the sides. The en¬ 
 trance next the river was the scene of Alibaud's attempt to assass¬ 
 inate Louis Philippe on 28th June, 1836. At the opposite en¬ 
 trance, ontheN. side, the royal carriage was waylaid and the attend¬ 
 ants murdered by the infuriated populace on 28th Feb., 1848. 
 
 The Palais des Tuileries (ruins, see below, not accessible 
 to the public) was begun in 1564, by order of Catharine de Medicis, 
 by Philibert Delorme on the site of a brick or tile-yard, from 
 which it derives its appellation. Additions were made to the pa¬ 
 lace at various periods, and at the time of its destruction it had 
 attained a length of 348 yds., with a width of 36 yds. Apart from 
 its huge dimensions it was a building of no architectural merit, and 
 it was not till the year 1856 that the principal facade towards the 
 garden acquired some degree of symmetry. 
 
 Prior to the Revolution the Tuileries were never occupied by 
 the sovereigns of France except as an occasional residence, but on 
 1st Feb., 1800, Bonaparte, when first consul, established his head¬ 
 quarters here, and since that period the palace has been regarded 
 as the official residence of the Teigning monarch. 
 
 The N. wing, which was entirely destroyed in 1871, was called 
 the Pavilion Marsan, the S. wing, re-erected since 1861, and 
 only damaged by (he fire in 1871, the Pavilion de Flore. Be¬ 
 tween these two rose the Pavilion del'Uorloge , which formerly con- 
 
4. TUILERIES. 
 
 115 
 
 tained the Salle des Marechaux, a hall occupying the whole width 
 of the building and two storeys in height, adorned with portraits of 
 eminent French generals. Adjacent were the Throne Boom, the 
 Galerie de Diane, the Salon da Premier Consul, and the other 
 apartments employed for great court festivals. The chambers 
 occupied by the imperial family were situated on the S. side, 
 between the Pavilion de 1 Horlogc and the Pavilion de Flore. The 
 N. half of the palace contained the chapel and the theatre. In 
 this portion of the building the Convention held its meetings. 
 
 The apartments of the Tuileries were fitted up in a style 
 similar to that of other palaces, but contained few works of great 
 artistic merit. 
 
 No edifice in Paris is so rich in historical associations as the 
 Tuileries, and none, with the exception of the Hotel de Ville 
 (p. 137), has ever been overtaken by so terrible a fate. On 
 5th Oct., 1789, Louis XVI. was conveyed from Versailles to 
 Paris by the ‘Dames de la Halle’, and took up his abode in the 
 palace. Successes had emboldened the revolutionists. The well 
 known manifesto of the Duke of Brunswick was used as a pre¬ 
 text for compassing the dethronement of the ill-fated monarch. 
 On 10th Aug., 1792, an armed mob appeared in front of the 
 palace. The fidelity of the national guard posted in the palace 
 yard and garden began to waver. The king, yielding to the 
 earnest solicitations of his friends, quitted the palace with his 
 family about 8 p. m. and repaired to the Manege or riding- 
 school, situated on the N. side of the garden, in the present Rue 
 de Rivoli, where he passed the night. 
 
 The withdrawal of the king at first appeared likely to avert 
 the impending contest. The mob, however, soon found some 
 pretext for commencing hostilities. After a fierce contest the 
 palace was taken by storm, and the greater number of its gallant 
 defenders, consisting of a number of French nobles and the Swiss 
 guard, mercilessly slain. Of the latter alone 800 men and 26 of¬ 
 ficers fell victims to their unwavering constancy, ‘ne sacrament/, 
 fidem fallerent' (‘lest they should break their oath of alle¬ 
 giance’), as the inscription under the Lion Monument at Lucerne 
 records. 
 
 On the following day the king and his family were conducted 
 as prisoners to the Temple, the ancient residence of the Knights 
 Templar, the site of which is now occupied by a market-place, 
 and the fate of the kingdom was sealed. 
 
 On 29tli July, 1830, the monarchy of the Restoration was 
 terminated by the capture of the Tuileries , and by the flight of 
 Charles X. from St. Cloud to Rambouillet. 
 
 The July monarchy met with its death-blow in a similar 
 manner, on 24th Feb., 1848. The conflict between the insur- 
 
 8* 
 
116 
 
 4. TUILERIES. 
 
 gents and the royal troops gradually approached the Tuileries. 
 To defend the palace would have been no difllcult matter, but 
 Louis Philippe trusted, by making concessions, to secure the 
 throne to his grandson, the Count of Paris, and preferred abandon¬ 
 ing the palace to the popular fury. About 1 p. m. he quitted 
 the Tuileries by the garden, and repaired with his family to the 
 Place de la Concorde, whence two fiacres conveyed the fugitives 
 to St. Cloud. 
 
 The capture of the palace was succeeded by frightful scenes 
 of devastation. The royal carriages and furniture were burned in 
 the palace yard, and the throne met with the same fate at the 
 foot of the July Column (p. 61). The apartments of the Duchess 
 of Orleans (d. 1858) alone were spared. 
 
 On 26th Feb., 1848, the Provisional Government (Dupont de 
 l’Eure, Lamartine, F. Arago, Ledru-Rollin, etc.) decreed that the 
 Tuileries should be converted into an asylum for invalid artizans. 
 This decree was never carried into effect, but the palace was 
 used for several months as a hospital for the wounded. 
 
 On 20tli May, 1871, the Communists, aware of their despe¬ 
 rate position and impending destruction, determined at one of 
 their secret meetings to wreak their revenge on the ill-fated 
 city by setting all the principal public buildings on fire. The 
 orders which they issued for this purpose, signed by Delescluze, 
 Donibrowski, Eudes, and other ringleaders, professed to emanate 
 from the ‘Comite (La Salut Public!’ Several of these documents still 
 extant show the fearfully comprehensive and systematic character 
 of this diabolical scheme, which also embraced numerous private 
 dwellings, as being ‘maisons suspectes’. The prelude to the ap¬ 
 palling scene which ensued consisted in placing combustibles 
 soaked with petroleum and barrels of gunpowder in the buildings 
 doomed to destruction. 
 
 The Louvre had also been doomed to destruction, and similar 
 preparations had been made there; but General Douai and his 
 troops arrived in time to prevent the farther spread of the con¬ 
 flagration , and the preservation of the Louvre and its enor¬ 
 mously valuable collections was due to their energetic measures. 
 
 The Tuileries was one of the first edifices subjected to these 
 ominous preparations. It was set on fire at a number of different 
 places on the 22nd and 23rd of May, after the Versailles troops 
 had forced an entrance into the city, but before they had gained 
 possession of the palace. The conflagration soon assumed the 
 most terrible dimensions, and all attempts to extinguish it were 
 fruitless. The whole of the W. side of the palace, or Pavil¬ 
 ion de l’Horloge, facing the Jardin des Tuileries, and the Pavilion 
 de Marsan on the N. side, next to the Rue de Rivoli, were speedily 
 reduced to a gigantic, heap of smouldering ruins, while the Pa¬ 
 vilion de Flore on the S. side escaped with comparatively little 
 
4. TUILERIES. 
 
 117 
 
 injury. The work of destruction was greatly accelerated by the 
 explosions of powder placed in various parts of the building. 
 Part of the Pavilion de 1'Horloge near the clock was blown up on 
 23rd May, at It. 7 p. m. The clock, how T ever, continued 
 to strike the quarters as usual until 12.30 on the morning 
 of the 24th, when it at length succumbed to the fury of the 
 flames. 
 
 The ruins are not accessible to the public, but they may be 
 well surveyed from the garden on the W. side. The palace will 
 doubtless be rebuilt, but no steps have yet been taken for its resto¬ 
 ration. Apart from the repair of the connecting wings between the 
 Tuileries and the New Louvre, nothing has been done, except to 
 restore the Pavilion de Flore, and to clear away the rubbish from 
 the ruins gutted by the fire. The chief defect of the palace was 
 the great length and monotony of its facade, but it will perhaps be 
 restored in accordance with the plan of Delorme, the original archi¬ 
 tect, who intended the building to consist of a handsome central 
 mass with wings of moderate height. 
 
 The ^Garden of the Tuileries, 780 yds. in length, and 347 yds. 
 in width, retains the same general features as when first de¬ 
 signed in the reign of Louis XIV. by the celebrated landscape- 
 gardener Le Notre, and although seriously injured during the 
 fearful scenes enacted in and around it in May, 1871, it has 
 now resumed its former smiling aspect. Some alterations were 
 made in 1858, the smaller garden laid out by Louis Philippe 
 being extended as far as the central basin, and separated from the 
 public garden by a ditch and an iron railing. The whole of the 
 garden is now open to the public. 
 
 The entrance to the garden from the S. side, next the river, 
 is by an archway under the Terrasse du Bord de VEau, leading 
 to the ‘parterre’, or flower-beds and lawns, on which the utmost 
 care is bestowed, bounded on the ML side by a shady grove of 
 lofty trees. On the three other sides the garden is bounded 
 by terraces, which, especially that on the ML side, afford a beau¬ 
 tiful prospect of the Seine, the Place de la Concorde, and the 
 Champs Elysees as far as the Arc de 1’Etoile. The Terrasse du 
 Bord de l’Eau, which communicated with the palace by a subterra¬ 
 nean passage, was once the playground of the young King of Home, 
 of the Duke of Bordeaux, of the Count of Paris, and lastly of the 
 Prince Imperial. At the end of this terrace are the Oranyeries. 
 
 The Terrasse des Feuillants on the N. side derives its name 
 from a Benedictine monastery of the ‘Feuillant’ order which stood 
 here before the Revolution, and where the republican club founded 
 by Lafayette used to meet in 1791. The riding-school mentioned 
 at p. 115 was in the immediate vicinity. 
 
 A number of marble and bronze Statues, some of which were 
 injured during the second siege of the city in 1871, adorn 
 
118 
 
 4. TUILERIES. 
 
 the garden, most of them being on the side next to the palace: 1. The 
 Grinder, in bronze, cast in 1688, from the well-known original in 
 the gallery at Florence; 2. Phidias, by Pradier; 3. Warrior of 
 Marathon, by Cortot; 4. Pericles, by Debay; 5. Truth trium¬ 
 phant with the aid of Time; 6. Boreas carrying off Orithyia, by 
 Regnaudin; 7. Themistocles, by Lemaire; 8. Theseus killing 
 the Minotaur, by Ramey jun.; 9. Spartacus, by Foyatier; 10. 
 Laocoon, a copy in bronze of the celebrated antique in the Va¬ 
 tican. Opposite to it, Ugolino with his sons. At the E. end 
 of the Allee des Grangers (see below), on the side next the Rue 
 de Rivoli, stands a Hercules, by Bosio; at the opposite end a 
 Meleager. Other statues surround the basin. 
 
 Under the trees on the r. and 1. are two amphitheatres termed 
 the Carres d’Atlante, constructed in 1793, from designs by Robes¬ 
 pierre, as seats for the council of old men who were to preside 
 over the floral games in the month of Germinal (21st March 
 to 19th April). In summer a military band plays near one of these 
 daily from 5 to 6 p. m., except on Sundays. 
 
 At the W. end of the grove is an octagonal basin, 200 yds. in 
 circumference, with a fountain in the centre, surrounded by four 
 large groups in marble: S., The Nile, by B our dot, The Rhine and 
 Moselle, by Van Cleve; N., The Rhone and Saone, by Q. Cou- 
 stou, The Tiber, by Van Cleve. The Nile is a copy of the 
 antique in the Vatican; the Tiber, of one in the Louvre (p. 91). 
 
 The pillars at the entrance to the garden from the Place rle 
 la Concorde are surmounted by two handsome groups (by Coyse- 
 vox) of Mercury and Fame on winged steeds. This outlet 
 derives its name of Porte du Pont-tournant from a drawbridge 
 formerly here. 
 
 l La Petite Provence’ is a name applied to this W. side of the 
 garden from its sheltered situation and sunny aspect. It is the 
 paradise of nursery-maids and children, elderly persons, and 
 invalids, who sun themselves here on fine winter and spring 
 days. 
 
 The garden of the Tuileries is the favourite resort of Pari¬ 
 sians of all classes, particularly the N. side, called the Cote des 
 Chaises , from the numerous chairs placed there for hire (10—20 c.). 
 The ether parts of the garden have wooden benches for the use 
 of visitors. The Allee des Orangers, or avenue of orange-trees 
 in tubs, the older trees being 250—400 years old, the younger 100 
 years, now diffuses its fragrance on the spot where a potato-field 
 was planted during the reign of terror in 1793. On the N. side 
 of the garden, not far from the Tuileries, is one of the numerous 
 Parisian cafe's. 
 
 The garden of the Tuileries is opened soon after daybreak, 
 and closed in winter at 4, in summer at 9 o’clock. The clos¬ 
 ing of the gates is announced by the beating of a drum. 
 
119 
 
 5. Place de la Concorde. 
 
 Obilisque de Louqsor. 
 
 The **Place de la Concorde, the most extensive and strik¬ 
 ingly handsome place in Paris, 390 yds. in length, and 235 yds. 
 in width, is bounded on the S. by the Seine, on the W. by the 
 
 Champs Elysees, on the N. by the Rue de Rivoli , and on the 
 
 E. by the garden of the Tuileries. From the centre of the square 
 a view is obtained of the Palais du Corps Le'gislatif (p. 217), the 
 Madeleine, the Tuileries, and the Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile. 
 When viewed by gas-light, the scene is scarcely less striking, 
 the lamps ascending the Champs Elysdes as far as the Triumphal 
 Arch forming an apparently interminable avenue. The two impos¬ 
 ing edifices of nearly uniform exterior on the N. side of the 
 
 square, separated from each other by the Rue Royale leading 
 
 to the Madeleine, were used as Oarde-Meubles of the crown down 
 to the first revolution. The one on the E. side is the Minist'ere 
 de Marine. The Place, one of the most magnificent in the world, 
 was completed in its present form in 1854. 
 
 A century ago the site of the Place was waste ground. After 
 the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle (18th Oct., 1748), which terminated 
 the Austrian War of Succession, Louis XV. ‘graciously permit¬ 
 ted’ the mayor and municipal authorities to erect a statue to him 
 here. The work was at once begun, and at length in 1763 an 
 equestrian statue in bronze by Bouchardon was erected in the 
 Place, which then received the name of Place de Louis AW. 
 The pedestal was adorned with four figures by Pigalle , emblema¬ 
 tical of Strength, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace. Soon after the 
 erection of the statue the following pasquinade appeared on the 
 pedestal: — 
 
 1 Grotesque monument, infame piedestall 
 Les vertus sont h pied, le vice est h eheval.' 
 
 A few days later was added the sarcasm: — 
 
 ‘/I est ici comme h Versailles, 
 
 II est sans cceur et sans entrailles.' 
 
 A third scribbler termed the statue a ‘■statue d'une statue'. 
 
 The Place was at that period surrounded by deep ditches, 
 but these were filled up, and a balustrade substituted for them in 
 1852. On 30th May, 1770, during an exhibition of fireworks in 
 honour of the marriage of the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XVI.) 
 with the Archduchess Marie Antoinette , such a panic was occa¬ 
 sioned by the accidental discharge of some rockets, that no fewer 
 than 1200 persons were crushed to death or killed by being 
 thrown into the ditches, and 2000 more severely injured. 
 
 On 11th August, 1792, the day after the capture of the 
 Tuileries, the statue of the king was removed by order of the 
 Convention, melted down, and converted into pieces of two sous. 
 
120 
 
 5. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 
 
 A terracotta figure of the ‘Goddess of Liberty’ was then placed 
 on the pedestal, and derisively termed ‘La Liberte de Boue, 
 while the Place was named Place de la Revolution. 
 
 On 21st Jan., 1793, the guillotine (p. 140) began its bloody 
 work here with the execution of Louis XVI. On 17th July 
 Charlotte Corday was beheaded; on 2nd October Brissot, chief of 
 the Gironde, with twenty-one of his adherents; on 16th Oct. the 
 ill-fated queen Marie Antoinette; on 14th Nov. Louis Philippe, 
 Duke of Orleans, better known as Egalitd (father of King Louis 
 Philippe); on 12th May, 1794, the princess Elisabeth Marie Hd- 
 lene, sister of Louis XVI. On 24th March, through the influence 
 of Danton and Robespierre, Hebert, the most determined opponent 
 of all social rule, together with his partizans, also terminated 
 his career on the scaffold here; the next victims were the ad¬ 
 herents of Marat and the Orleanists; then on 8tli April Danton 
 himself and his party, among whom was Camille Desmoulins; 
 and on 16th April the atheists Chaumette and Anacharsis Cloots, 
 and the wives of Camille Desmoulins, He'bert, and others. On 
 28th July 1794, Robespierre and his associates, his brother, 
 Dumas, St. Just, and other members of the ‘comite du salut 
 public met a retributive end here; next day the same fate 
 overtook 70 members of the Commune , whom Robespierre had 
 employed as his tools, and on July 30th twelve other members 
 of the same body. 
 
 Lasource , one of the Girondists, said to his judges: ‘Je 
 meurs dans un moment oil le peuple a perdu sa raison; vous , 
 vous mourrez le jour oil il la retrouveraf . Of St. Just, Camille 
 Desmoulins had said: ‘II s'estime tant, quit porte avec respect sa 
 tete sur ses epaules comme un saint-sacrement .' St. Just replied: 
 ‘Et moi, je lui feral porter la sienne comme un St. Denis'. 
 (St. Denis, it is well known, is usually represented as a martyr, 
 bearing his head in his hands.) St. Just kept his word, but a 
 few months later he himself fell a victim. 
 
 From 21st Jan., 1793, to 3rd May, 1795, upwards of 2800 
 persons perished here by the guillotine. When it was after¬ 
 wards proposed to erect a large fountain on the spot where the 
 scaffold of Louis XVI. had stood, the plan was strenuously and 
 successfully opposed by Chateaubriand, who aptly observed that 
 all the water in the world would not suffice to remove the blood¬ 
 stains which sullied the Place. 
 
 In 1799 the square was named Place de la Concorde, in 
 1814 Place de Louis XV., and in 1826 Place de Louis XVI., as 
 it was intended here to erect an expiatory monument to the 
 memory of that monarch. After 1830 the name of Place de la 
 Concorde was revived, and it was resolved to adorn the square with 
 some monument bearing no reference to political events. An op- 
 
5. PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 
 
 121 
 
 portunity of doing this was soon afforded by the presentation to 
 Louis Philippe by Mohammed Ali, Pasha of Egypt, of the — 
 
 ■"Obelisk of Luxor, or Louqsor. In front of the great temple 
 of ancient Thebes, the modern Luxor, formerly stood two beau¬ 
 tiful ancient Egyptian obelisks. As a token of gratitude for va¬ 
 rious services, the Pasha offered one of these to the French gov¬ 
 ernment. In 1831 a vessel was accordingly despatched to Egypt 
 for the purpose of bringing home the smaller and more beautiful 
 of these monoliths. The task, however, proved so difficult 
 fcomp. p. Ill) that the vessel did not return with its costly freight 
 till August, 1833, and the erection of the obelisk in its present 
 position was not accomplished till 1836. The expense of the 
 whole undertaking amounted to two million francs, and, as the 
 obelisk is 500,000 lbs. in weight, the sarcastic Parisians say that 
 the granite of which it consists has cost 4 fr. per pound. 
 
 This obelisk, one of the most beautiful in the world, is 
 76 ft. in height, the pedestal on which it stands 13 ft., and the 
 steps by which it is approached 16 ft., so that the entire height 
 is 105 ft. The obelisk itself is a monolith, or single block, 
 of reddish granite or syenite, and is inscribed with three 
 vertical rows of well-defined hieroglyphics on each side. 
 The inscriptions are laudatory of king Ramses II. of Egypt, 
 better known in Europe as Sesostris the Great, who reigned about 
 1500 years before the Christian era. The obelisk is, therefore, 
 upwards of 3300 years old. 
 
 On the N. side of the pedestal is represented the apparatus 
 used in the removal and embarkation of the monument; on the 
 S. side, that employed in its erection in Paris. 
 
 Inscription on the E. side: — Ludovicus Philippus L, Fran- 
 corum Rex, ut antiquissimum artis Aegyptiacae opus, idemque re- 
 centis gloriae ad Nil urn urmis partae insigne monumentum, Franciae 
 ab ipsa Aegypto donatum posleritati prorogaret, obeliscum die 
 25. Aug. A. 1832 Thebis Hecatompylis avectum navique ad id 
 constructa intra menses 13 in Gallium perducturn erigendum cura- 
 vit. Die 25. Octobris Anni 1836. Anno reg. septimo. 
 
 Inscription on the W. side: — Fn presence du Iloi Louis 
 Philippe I er , cet obelisque, transporte de Louqsor en France, a ete 
 dresse sur ce piedestal par M. Le Bus , ingenieur, aux applau- 
 dissements d’un peuple immense, le 25 octobre, 1836. 
 
 The * Fountains which rise on each side of the obelisk form 
 another striking ornament of the square. Each of them consists 
 of a round basin, 53 ft. in diameter, above which rise two smaller 
 basins, surmounted by a spout from which a jet of water rises to a 
 height of 28 ft. The lower basin is surrounded by Tritons and 
 Nereids, holding dolphins which spout water into the second basin. 
 
 The fountain on the S. side is dedicated to the seas. The 
 figures supporting the second basin represent the Pacific Ocean 
 
122 
 
 6. CHAMPS ELYSfiES. 
 
 and the Mediterranean; the genii are emblematical of the four 
 kinds of fishery. The fountain on the N. side is dedicated to the 
 rivers. The principal figures represent the Rhine and the 
 Rhone; and the genii of Corn, Wine, Fruit, and Flowers are 
 symbols of the chief products of France. The figures and the upper 
 basins are of bronzed iron , the lower basins of granite. The 
 fountains are supplied from a large reservoir near the Barriere 
 de Monceau. 
 
 Around the Place rise eight stone figures representing the 
 chief towns of France : Lille and Strasbourg by Pradier , Bordeaux 
 and Nantes by Calhouet , Rouen and Brest by Cortot, and Marseilles 
 and Lyons by Petitot. Along the balustrades which enclose the 
 square are placed twenty bronzed rostral columns which serve as 
 candelabra, each bearing two lamps. 
 
 On 10th April, 1814, a solemn service was performed here 
 in presence of the emperors Francis and Alexander, and king 
 Frederick William III., in memory of Louis XVI., after which a 
 Te Deum was sung as a thanksgiving for their victory. Prussian 
 and Russian troops were on that occasion bivouacked in the 
 Champs Elysdes, and English soldiers the following year. 
 
 In March, 1871, Prussian troops again bivouacked in the 
 Champs Elysdes and the Place de la Concorde, and in the follow¬ 
 ing May the latter was the scene of a desperate struggle between 
 the troops of Versailles and the Communists. The troops had 
 entered Paris on the 21st, and next day encountered a most for¬ 
 midable obstacle in the barricade of the Rue Royale (p. 75), 
 which effectually commanded the Place. The injuries it sustained 
 were chiefly due to this last contest. The statue of Lille was 
 almost entirely destroyed, the fountain dedicated to the seas 
 seriously damaged, and the balustrades much injured, but the 
 obelisk fortunately escaped. 
 
 6. The Champs Elysees. 
 
 Palais de VElysfe. Palais de VIndustrie. Panorama. Maison de Fran¬ 
 cois /. Palais Pompiien. Pont de VAlma. 
 
 To the W. of the Place de la Concorde extend the Champs 
 Elysees, originally laid out by Marie de Medicis in 1616 as a 
 pleasure-ground, termed the Cours-la-Reine , and planted with 
 elms and lime-trees. It now forms a magnificent double avenue, 
 about 1 M. in length, leading from the Place de la Concorde to 
 the Arc de l’Etoile, and flanked with handsome buildings. This 
 is one of the most fashionable promenades in Paris, especially 
 from noon to 5 o’clock, when numerous carriages, riders, and 
 pedestrians are on their way to and from the Bois de Boulogne. 
 
6. CHAMPS ELYSliES. 
 
 123 
 
 The end of the Champs Elysdes next the town is a favourite resort 
 of the lower classes, and abounds with attractions suited to their 
 taste, such as cafe's-chantants , jugglers, marionettes, termed 
 Theatres de Ouignol, shows, cake-stalls, and restaurants. These 
 entertainments are most popular towards evening, by gas-light, 
 and are in great request till nearly midnight. The traveller who 
 visits them will have an opportunity of witnessing one of the char¬ 
 acteristic phases of Parisian life. 
 
 At the entrance to the Champs Elysdes are placed two figures 
 of Horse-tamers , executed by Coustou, removed in 1795 from 
 the palace at Marly to their present position, where they form 
 a suitable counterpart to the winged steeds at the egress of the 
 Jardin des Tuileries (p. 118). A Tramway (‘Chemin de Fer Ame'- 
 ricain’), which begins at the S. E. end of the Champs Elysdes, 
 conveys passengers to Boulogne-sur-Seine and Versailles. 
 
 The principal plantations are a little more than 1 / 4 M. in length, 
 terminating at the Rond Point (Place or Etoile des Champs Ely sees), 
 a circular space with a fountain in the centre, half-way between 
 the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de l’Etoile. The main 
 avenue, however, slightly ascending, extends as far as the arch. 
 To the 1. diverges the broad Avenue Montaigne, on the r. side of 
 which is situated the Jardin Mabille (p. 51), and farther on, on 
 the 1., the Palais Pompdien (p. 125). 
 
 Adjoining the Champs Elysdes on the N. side is the garden 
 of the Palais de l’Elysee, or Ely see Bourbon, erected in 1718, 
 and considerably enlarged by Napoleon III. , with its facade 
 towards the Hue du Faubourg St. Honore', Nos. 55 — 57. During 
 the reign of Louis XV. this mansion was the residence of Madame 
 de Pompadour; in 1815, during the ‘hundred days’, it was oc¬ 
 cupied by Napoleon I., and afterwards by the Duke of Welling¬ 
 ton and the Emperor Alexander; it then became the seat of the 
 Duchess de Berry , and finally that of the President of the Re¬ 
 public before his elevation to the throne and removal to the 
 Tuileries. 
 
 On the S. side, the Champs Elysdes have been compelled to 
 yield a considerable space to the Palais de l’Industrie, the larg¬ 
 est but not the most pleasing of the modern edifices of Paris. It 
 was erected by a company in 1852 — -55, and subsequently pur¬ 
 chased by government. In 1855 it was employed for the first 
 Great Exhibition at Paris, and is now used for the exhibition 
 of manufactures, agricultural products, and modern pictures. The 
 annual exhibition of pictures takes place in a room called the Salon 
 in the months of May and June, and is worthy of a visit. The 
 building is rectangular in form, 270 yds. in length, 118 yds. in 
 width, and 114 ft. in height. The handsomest part of the building 
 is the pavilion in front, towards the avenue, which occupies nearly 
 one-third of the length of the whole building. An arcade 48 ft. in 
 
124 
 
 6. CHAMPS ELYSfiES. 
 
 width and 98 ft. in height here forms the principal entrance, which 
 is flanked with Corinthian columns and surmounted by an attic with 
 a bas-relief representing Industry and the Arts bringing their pro¬ 
 ducts to the exhibition. On the summit is a fine colossal group re¬ 
 presenting France standing before a throne with outstretched hands, 
 awarding laurel-wreaths to Art and Manufacture, which are repre¬ 
 sented by two statues sitting at her feet. Above the columns on each 
 side are groups of genii bearing scutcheons. The frieze which se¬ 
 parates the ground floor from the one above it bears numerous 
 names and medallion portraits of persons who have acquired dis¬ 
 tinction in the pursuit of art, science, commerce, or agriculture. 
 In the centre is a large glass-covered hall, 210 yds. in length and 
 51 ft. in height. The building was used as a magazine and 
 hospital during the two sieges of Paris in 1870 and 1871. Nu¬ 
 merous panes of glass were destroyed on these occasions , but the 
 building sustained no serious damage. 
 
 At the back of the Palais de lTndustrie, in a garden near the 
 Seine, the ‘ Concerts des Champs Elysees' are given in summer (see 
 p. 50). 
 
 Near the Palais de lTndustrie, in the direction of the Triumphal 
 Arch, rises the circularbuilding of the*Panorama, which is worthy 
 of a visit. The hall is 44 yds. in diameter and is surrounded by a 
 painting of vast dimensions representing some memorable scene. 
 That at present exhibited is the Defence of Paris, and as the spec¬ 
 tators occupy raised seats in the centre , the effect is remarkably 
 vivid, and a vast horizon appears to stretch into the distance before 
 them. Admission from 10 to 4 o’clock, 2 fr., on Sundays 1 fr. 
 
 On the opposite side of the road is situated the Cirque d'Ete 
 (p. 48), formerly called the Cirque de I'lmperatrice. 
 
 The S. side of the Champs Elysees adjoins the Quui de la 
 Conference on the Seine, which is skirted by the Cours la Reine 
 and the tramway. The *Maison de Franqois I. , which forms 
 the corner of the Cours la Reine and the Rue Bayard, is a very 
 pleasing example of the domestic architecture of the Renais¬ 
 sance. The sculptures in front, the Teliefs of the frieze repre¬ 
 senting vintage festivals, and the portraits in the medallions, are 
 all by Jean Ooujon, the eminent Huguenot sculptor (p. 90). 
 Francis I. caused this building to be erected at Moret, near Fon¬ 
 tainebleau, in 1528, for the reception of his sister, and in 1826 
 it was transferred piecemeal to Paris and re-erected on its pre¬ 
 sent site. 
 
 The Quartier de Francois /., the construction of which was 
 undertaken by a company in 1823, is still uncompleted. The 
 circular Place Francois I. is adorned with a fountain. 
 
 The Avenue Montaigne , which extends from the Seine to the 
 Rond Point in the Champs Elyse'es, was formerly termed the Alice 
 des Veuves. Before the first revolution it was the usual drive 
 
7. ARC DE L’ETOILE. 
 
 125 
 
 for recently bereaved widows on account of its privacy, the etiquette 
 of the period forbidding them to appear in more public places. 
 
 About the middle of the Avenue, on the 1., No. 18, is the 
 Palais Pompeien, erected by the architect M. Normand for Prince 
 Napoleon, in the style of the ‘Villa of Diomedes’ at Pompeii. In 
 1866 it was purchased by a company for 1,200,000 fr., who 
 afterwards sold it to the Hungarian Count Palffy. The interior 
 deserves inspection, although it does not convey a distinct idea 
 of ancient domestic architecture, which in the case of villas differed 
 considerably from that of ordinary dwelling-houses. Visitors ad¬ 
 mitted ; fee 1—2 fr. 
 
 Opposite to it is the residence of Prince Soltikoff, erected in 
 the mediaeval style. 
 
 A little farther on is the much frequented Gymnaae Triat, 
 Avenue Montaigne 55, 57; and No. 87, beyond it, is the Jardin 
 Mabille (p. 51). 
 
 The Champ de Mars (p. 225) is reached hence, either by 
 the Pont de l’Alma and the Avenue Rapp (the corner-building on 
 the r. was formerly an imperial stable), or by following the 
 Quai de Billy (on the r. the extensive ‘Manutention Militaire’) and 
 crossing the Pont d’lena (p. 226). 
 
 The Pont de l’Alma was erected in 1856 to commemorate the 
 Crimean campaign, at a cost of 1,200,000 fr. (48,000 i.). On 
 the buttresses are statues, representing a Zouave, a grenadier, an 
 artillery-man, and a chasseur. 
 
 7. Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile. 
 
 Russian Church. Chapelle St. Ferdinand. 
 
 The Avenue des Champs-Elysdes, 1 M. in length, which ex¬ 
 tends from the Place de la Concorde to the old Barriere de l'Etoile, 
 is terminated by the *Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile, the most im¬ 
 posing triumphal arch in existence. It stands on a slight emi¬ 
 nence, nearly 2 M. from the Palais Royal, and is visible from 
 almost every part of the environs of Paris. It derives its name 
 from the star formed by the twelve different boulevards or avenues 
 which radiate from this point. 
 
 In 1806 Napoleon 1. resolved to erect four triumphal arches 
 in commemoration of his victories. Two only of these were 
 completed, that in the Place du Carrousel by the emperor him¬ 
 self, and the Arc de l'Etoile by Louis Philippe in 1836, from 
 designs by Chalgrin. The latter, which cost upwards of 9 million 
 francs, consists of a vast arch, 95 ft. in height and 46 ft. in 
 width, intersected by a transversal arch of 59 ft. by 19 ft. The 
 whole structure is 160 ft. in height, 146 ft. in width, and 72 
 in depth. 
 
126 
 
 7. ARC DE L’ETOILE. 
 
 The following groups adorn the E. facade: to the r., Depar¬ 
 ture of the troops to the frontier in 1792, by Rude, the finest 
 of the four large groups; above it, the obsequies of General Mar- 
 eeau, by Lemaire. To the 1. Napoleon crowned by the goddess of 
 Victory in 1810, by Cortot; above it, the Pasha of Roumelia taken 
 prisoner by Murat at the battle of Aboukir, by Seurre. The figures 
 in these reliefs are 10 ft. in height. 
 
 On the W. facade: to the r., Resistance of the French to the 
 invading armies in 1814, by Etex; above it, Passage of the bridge 
 of Arcole (death of Muiron, Bonaparte’s adjutant), by Feucheres. 
 To the 1., the Peace of 1815, also by Etex ; above it, the Taking 
 of Alexandria (Kleber, who has received a wound on the head, 
 points out the enemy to his troops), by Chaponni'ere. For the 
 two large groups by Etex, executed in 1833'—36, the sum of 
 140,000 fr. was paid. 
 
 The reliefs on the N. side, by Gechter, represent the battle 
 of Austerlitz, in which the myth of the Russian regiments sunk 
 amidst the ice is not wanting. On the S. side, the Battle of 
 Jemappes by Marochetti ; behind General Dumouriez the Due de 
 Chartres (Louis Philippe) is represented attacking Prussian batteries. 
 
 The succession of reliefs on the frieze represent on the E. side 
 the departure, and on the W. side the return of the French ar¬ 
 mies, by Brun, Jaquot, Seurre, and Rude. The figures of Victory 
 on each side of the upper part of the arch are by Pradier. 
 A series of 30 shields on the cornice above the entablature are 
 inscribed with the names of different victories. 
 
 On the vaulting of the transversal arch are recorded the 
 names of generals of the Republic and of the Empire, the names 
 of those who fell in battle being underlined. In the time of Louis 
 Philippe there were 384 names , to which Napoleon III. caused 
 those of his father Louis Napoleon and his uncle Jerome to be 
 added. 
 
 The figures of Victory in relief under these names relate to 
 successes gained in the east, north, and south. The cock alter¬ 
 nates with the eagle in the coat of arms. 
 
 The Platform, to which a spiral stair of 261 steps ascends, 
 commands a noble prospect. Entrance on the S. side, fee 25 c. 
 The monument still requires some crowning sculpture on the 
 summit to give it an appropriate finish, but no steps have yet 
 been taken to supply the defect. The damage which the arch 
 sustained during the sieges of 1870—71 has been repaired. 
 
 Near the Arc de l’Etoile, in the Rue de la Croix, is situated 
 the Russian Church (shown on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays. 
 3—5 p. m.), recognisable at a considerable distance by its 
 glittering dome and the gilded star by which it is surmounted. 
 The edifice is richly and tastefully decorated, especially in the 
 
7. ARC DE L’ETOILE. 
 
 127 
 
 interior. The Iconostas , or screen between the nave and choir, 
 is covered with figures of Russian saints. 
 
 The continuation of the Avenue des Champs Elysees beyond 
 the Arc de l’Etoile, called the Avenue de la Grande Armee and 
 the Avenue de Neuilly, leads to Neuilly, for which an omnibus 
 starts every 10 min. from the Place du Louvre, passing through 
 the Arc de l’Etoile, and reaching the bridge at Neuilly in 20 min. 
 (fare 30 c.). The chateau of Neuilly, once the favourite residence 
 of Louis Philippe, was totally destroyed on 25th Feb., 1848. 
 The suburb of Neuilly suffered severely during the civil war of 
 1871, many houses being entirely destroyed, and few escaping 
 uninjured. 
 
 The Bois de Boulogne (p. 128) adjoins the S. side of the Ave¬ 
 nue de Neuilly. The Porte Maillot , formerly the principal en¬ 
 trance of the Bois de Boulogne, is nearly opposite the Route de 
 la Revolte , a broad street with few houses, diverging from the 
 avenue to the r., nearly '/2 M. from the Arc de I’Etoile. In this 
 street, about 100 yds. from the Avenue de Neuilly, is situated 
 the entrance to the — 
 
 Chapel of St. Ferdinand, on the right (visitors ring at the 
 porte-cochere), a cruciform mausoleum in the Byzantine style, 
 erected by Louis Philippe on the spot where Ferdinand, Duke of 
 Orleans, breathed his last on 13th July, 1842, in consequence of 
 a fall from his carriage. Over the high-altar is a Descent from 
 the Cross in marble, by Triquetti. To the 1. is the altar of St. 
 Ferdinand, opposite which is placed a group in the form of a 
 sarcophagus, representing the Duke on his death-bed, also by 
 Triquetti , from a design by Ary Scheffer. The figure of a *praying 
 angel at the head of the dying prince was executed by his sister 
 Marie d'Orleans (d. 1839), wife of Duke Alexander of Wurtem- 
 berg. The windows are filled with stained glass from drawings 
 (preserved in the Luxembourg, see p. 190) by Ingres, representing 
 Faith, Hope, Charity, and the fourteen tutelary saints of the mem¬ 
 bers of the Orleans family. St. Ferdinand and St. Helena are 
 portraits of the Duke himself and his wife Helen of Mecklen¬ 
 burg (d. 1858). 
 
 Behind the high-altar several steps lead into the Sacristy, which 
 occupies the site of the room in which the Duke expired. A picture by 
 Jucquand, painted in 1844, represents this affecting scene. Around 
 the couch of the dying prince are the king, the queen, the Prin¬ 
 cess Clementine, the Dukes of Aumale and Montpensier, Marshals 
 Soult and Gerard, and the cur6 of Neuilly, and Guizot is among 
 the other persons present. The head of the sufferer is held by 
 Dr. Paquet. Dr. Destouches, the other medical attendant, bears 
 a strong resemblance to Thiers. The chapel is shown to visitors 
 from 10 to 5 o’clock (fee 50 c. to 1 fr.). 
 
128 
 
 8. B01S DE BOULOGNE. 
 
 To the r. of the Avenue de Neuilly, near the Route de la Rd- 
 volte, is the Neuilly-Porte-Maillot station on the Chemin de Fer 
 de Ceinture (p. 233), where trains for Passy, Auteuil, etc., and 
 for the Gare St. Lazare, by one of which the traveller may return 
 to Paris, stop every half-hour. 
 
 8. Bois de Boulogne. 
 
 Fortifications. Jardin d'Aeclimatation. 
 
 The broad Avenue TJhrich , or de 1‘Imperatrice , most of the trees 
 in which were unfortunately cut down in 1870—71 , 3) 4 M. i u 
 length, leads from the Arc de l’fitoile to the S.W. to the *Bois 
 de Boulogne. This was once a forest abounding with game, the 
 resort of duellists, persons suicidally disposed, and robbers, but is 
 now a beautiful park covering an area of 2250 acres. When the 
 Prussians and Russians were encamped here in 1814 and 1815, 
 a great part of the wood disappeared, but Louis XVIII. caused 
 new trees to be planted, and Charles X. again preserved game 
 in the forest down to the July revolution, after which the game 
 was soon exterminated. 
 
 Under Louis Philippe little was done for the Bois de Boulogne, 
 although it was one of the crown-domains. In 1852 it was pre¬ 
 sented to the municipality, on condition that a sum of two million 
 francs should be expended on it within four years, and that it 
 should be maintained in future at the municipal expense. The 
 city accordingly converted it into a park, which has become a fa¬ 
 vourite promenade of the Parisians. 
 
 The traveller is recommended to engage a cab by the hour (see 
 p. 21) for the purpose of visiting the Bois de Boulogne, dismissing 
 it however if he is disposed to continue his excursion on foot. The 
 park may also be reached by the Neuilly line of omnibuses, by the 
 Chemin de Fer de Ceinture (station near the Avenue de l’lmpdra- 
 trice), by the tramway, or by one of the Seine steamers. A ramble 
 through the park on foot will be found very refreshing after the 
 fatigues of sight-seeing, but a whole day will be consumed in ex¬ 
 ploring it. The principal points may be visited by carriage in 
 2—3 hours. The annexed plan will enable the visitor to find his 
 way through the park without difficulty. 
 
 The Bois de Boulogne is most frequented in the afternoon 
 between 3 and 5 o’clock, the favourite routes being those be¬ 
 tween the Avenue Uhrich and the lakes , where the handsomest 
 carriages and most elegant toilettes are to be seen. 
 
 In 1870 a considerable part of the wood adjacent to the for¬ 
 tifications was cut down by the engineers as a preparation for 
 the impending Prussian siege. The trees surrounding the lakes 
 were fortunately spared, but many of them were much in¬ 
 jured during the bombardments. The N. part of the wood, 
 
' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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SU R E SN E s ;/ 
 
 CLOU 
 
 H1P P0nB0»EDE l - 0HCCHAM ' > ) 
 
 
Nr RAlkE 
 
 0^033 
 

 
 * 
 
8. BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 
 
 129 
 
 adjoining the Jardin d’Acclimatation (see below), suffered severely 
 during the second siege, and in the summer of 1871 the once 
 smiling Bois presented a deplorably battered appearance. The 
 most necessary repairs, however, were speedily executed, and new 
 trees planted; so that almost all traces of these disasters are now 
 obliterated. 
 
 In the Bois, about 1 M. from the Arc de l’Etoile, or */2 M. 
 from the end of the Avenue Uhrich (see Plan), are two artificial 
 lakes, the Lac Inferieur, about % M. in length and 100 yds. 
 in width, and the Lac Superieur , about */ 4 M. in length and 
 60 yds. in width. Near these sheets of water, and on the islands, 
 are to be found all kinds of entertainment calculated to attract 
 the denizen of the city. 
 
 In the Lac Inferieur are two islands (ferry there and back 
 20 c.; boat on the lake for 1 pers. 1 fr., 8 — 14 pers. 5 fr. per 
 half-hour), on one of which is a large cafe-restaurant in the form 
 of a Swiss Chalet. As cafes are one of the chief characteristics 
 of every Parisian resort, the hungry and thirsty wayfarer will 
 find other places of refreshment in various parts of the park 
 (comp. p. 50). 
 
 Until recently the Pre Catelan , situated nearly in the centre 
 of the Bois , was the most frequented of these restaurants . but 
 is now chiefly used for concerts. The favourite resort is the 
 *Chalet des lies, just mentioned, where fetes of various kinds 
 frequently take place (generally on Saturdays, admission 1 fr.), 
 and where music, an open air theatre, games of every kind, 
 a reading-room, and other attractions allure vast numbers of pleas¬ 
 ure seekers. As there are only six ferry-boats, the visitor should 
 secure a return ticket in good time, in order to avoid long deten¬ 
 tion on the island. 
 
 The outlet of the lakes near the Carrefour du Bout du Lac , at 
 the E. end of the Lac Inferieur, forms two artificial brooklets, 
 the sinuosities and ramifications of which water that part of the 
 Bois which lies to the E. of the lakes and the Prd Catelan. The 
 brook nearest the fortifications divides near the Carrefour into 
 two branches, one of which falls into the Mare d'Armenonville, 
 at the back of the pavilion of that name, near the Porte Maillot, 
 and afterwards traverses the Jardin d’Acclimatation; while the 
 other runs towards the Mare de St. James , or de Madrid, near 
 the Jardin d’Acclimatation. The brooks unite, a little farther, 
 in the Mare de Neuilly. The second of these streams, skirted 
 by pleasant shady paths, runs towards the Mare de Lonychamp, 
 a reservoir which feeds the *lirande Cascade, an artificial water¬ 
 fall, 45 ft. in height, near the Carrefour de Longohamp, on 
 the W. margin of the Bois. The height above the artificial 
 grotto from which the cascade falls affords a fine view of the 
 
 Bjedkker. Paris. 4th Edition. 9 
 
130 
 
 9. BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 
 
 valley of the Seine; to the 1. on the opposite bank lies St. Cloud 
 ■with its modern church; nearer is the Hippodrome de Longchamp 
 (see below); opposite the spectator are a mill and two towers 
 which formerly belonged to the ancient Abbey of Longchamp , 
 and beyond them the village of Suresnes: to the r., at some 
 distance, rises Fort Valerien (p. 235). Under the trees to the 1. 
 is a good Cafe. 
 
 The Hippodrome de Longchamp is the principal race-course 
 of Paris, but there are others at Chantilly (p. 273), Vincennes 
 (p. 172), and La Marche near Ville d’Avray (p. 236). The races 
 at Longchamp take place in spring, summer, and autumn, the 
 days being advertised by the newspapers and handbills. On 
 these occasions, offices are opened in the boulevards and the 
 hippodrome for public ‘ponies’, or sweepstakes. The races attract 
 vast crowds and are worth seeing. The smaller race-course is 
 about 2000 yds. in length, the larger 3000 yds. Charges for 
 admission to the hippodrome: pavilion 5 fr.; weighing - place 
 20 fr. ; for a carriage with one horse 15, with two horses 20 fr. ; 
 each rider 5 fr. ; pedestrian 1 fr. 
 
 Another of the sights of the Bois de Boulogne is the long 
 established Promenade de Longchamp, the ‘Corso’ of Paris, which 
 takes place in Passion Week, when the new spring fashions for 
 the year are displayed for the first time. The custom originated 
 during the last century, when fashionable concerts of sacred music 
 were given at the Abbaye de Longchamp on the Wednesday, Thursday, 
 and Friday of this week. Among the other attractions of the 
 Bois are the regattas on the lakes in summer, and the skating in 
 winter, the latter sometimes taking place by torchlight. 
 
 The traveller may return to Paris from the Bois de Boulogne 
 by the Route de Neuilly, at the opposite end from the race¬ 
 course, enjoying a fine view by the way, and passing the pleas¬ 
 ant little chateau of Bagatelle. He will then proceed by the 
 Boulevard de Bagatelle to the Boulevard de Madrid , a name 
 derived from a chateau which once stood in this neighbourhood, 
 having been thus named by Francis I. as a reminiscence of his cap¬ 
 tivity in Spain. At the other end of the Boulevard de Madrid 
 is the Porte de Neuilly, leading to the Jardin d’Acclimatation 
 (see below), but the avenue parallel to the boulevard, and passing 
 the Mare de St. James, is the pleasanter route to the garden. 
 
 In the opposite direction the Route de Neuilly leads to Bou¬ 
 logne (p. 254). Skirting the wood in that direction, or traver¬ 
 sing it in the direction of the lakes, the traveller reaches Auteuil 
 and Passy , where there are railway stations. There is also an 
 omnibus from the entrance to the Bois at Auteuil to the Palais 
 Royal , which affords the traveller an opportunity of seeing this 
 part of the city with its villas and quays, the Trocadero, the 
 Champ de Mars, and the Esplanade des Invalides. 
 
8. BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 
 
 131 
 
 The Fortifications of Paris skirt the Bois de Boulogne on the 
 E. side. In consequence of a decree of 1840, Paris was fortified 
 and encircled with ramparts, a work which was completed within 
 three years at an expense of 140 million francs (5,600,000 t.). 
 The enceinte , with its 94 bastions, is 21 M. in length. The 
 ramparts, 32 ft. in height, with a parapet 19 ft. in width, are 
 environed by a moat 48 ft. in width, and a glacis, or belt of 
 wood, which was cut down in 1870, before the Prussian siege. The 
 approaches to the city were formerly commanded by sixteen Forts 
 Detaches , the principal being Mont Valerien (p. 235), most of 
 which were entirely destroyed in 1870—71; but some of them 
 are to be reconstructed at a greater distance from the ramparts. 
 
 An enclosed part of the Bois de Boulogne adjoining the Boule¬ 
 vard de Maillot, to the S. of the Avenue de Neuilly, and between 
 thePorte des Sablons and the Porte deMadrid, is termed the*Jardin 
 d’Acclimatation, which affords one of the most attractive prome¬ 
 nades in the environs of Paris. This garden, which covers 
 an area of 50 acres, was founded by a company ‘in order to 
 introduce into France and acclimatise foreign plants and animals 
 suitable for domestic or ornamental purposes’. Several desperate 
 conflicts took place here and in the vicinity between the Versailles 
 troops and the insurgents in April and May, 1871. Many of 
 the animals were killed, and the garden was converted into a 
 dreary wilderness. The faithful concierge, a discharged soldier, 
 remained with his wife at his post during these fearful scenes, 
 but was killed by a federal bullet when venturing forth in quest 
 of provisions. The garden has since been replenished with new 
 supplies of animals and plants, and has resumed its former high 
 rank among the best existing institutions of the kind. 
 
 The garden is open the whole day to carriages, riders, and 
 foot-passengers (admission 1 fr. each pel's.; Sundays and holidays 
 50 c. ; children under seven free; carr. 3 fr.). Like the Bois de 
 Boulogne , it is best reached by the Champs-Elysdes, by cab, or 
 by an omnibus of Line C, from the Louvre to Courbevoie. It 
 may also be reached by the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture, which 
 is quitted either at the Porte Maillot station (p. 233) or that 
 of the Avenue de lTmpe'ratrice. If a cab is engaged it may be 
 dismissed at the Porte Maillot, before the line of the fortifications 
 is crossed; otherwise, the fare to the Jardin is higher, and 1 fr. 
 additional must also be paid as ‘indemnity de retour’ (see p. 22). 
 The Porte Maillot is not far from the Jardin. The omnibus 
 passenger may either alight at that gate, or, on paying 10 c. 
 extra, at the third cross street to the 1. , near the Porte des 
 Sablons. On concert days (see below) special omnibuses run 
 between No. 8 Boulevard des Italiens and the garden (1 fr. 
 each way). The principal entrance is on the E. side, near the 
 Porte des Sablons; a second is at Neuilly, near the Porte de 
 
 9* 
 
132 
 
 8 BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 
 
 Madrid. Concert in the garden in summer on Sundays and 
 Thursdays at 3 p. m., for which no additional charge is made. 
 
 The directors have recently printed a convenient little ‘Guide 
 du Promeneur’, containing much useful information, a copy of 
 which is given to each visitor gratuitously. Besides this, every 
 animal and plant is provided with an explanatory ticket. The 
 description given below will enable the visitor to find his way 
 to the chief objects of interest. 
 
 On entering, we find ourselves in a handsome walk, 11 yds. 
 wide, which runs round the whole garden. On the r. are the 
 Offices of the company, to which intending purchasers of seeds, 
 eggs, etc. address their orders. On the 1. is the large hothouse 
 which we shall again have occasion to mention. The Magnanerie, 
 or silkworm nursery, near the offices, contains silkworms from 
 all parts of the world, around which are the various plants on 
 which they feed. Near this is the establishment for the En- 
 graissement Mecanique , or artificial fattening of poultry, by an 
 ingenious system invented by M. Martin, where 400 fowls can 
 be fed in an hour and their weight is doubled in 18 days (open 
 from 2 to 5 o’clock; admission 50 c.). Next come the Hangars, 
 or sheds where all kinds of articles connected with gardening 
 are exhibited; then the Singerie, or monkey-house; the enclo¬ 
 sures for various long-legged birds; the Faisanderies , in front 
 of which rises a statue in white marble of the naturalist Daubenton 
 (d. 1800) by Jodin; the Poulerie , a building constructed of con¬ 
 crete; and the Kangaroo Chalet, near which diverges the walk 
 leading to the entrance on the side next the Porte de Neuilly. 
 
 A little farther are the *Ecuries , or stables, and enclosures 
 connected with them, containing quadrupeds trained for the pur¬ 
 poses of the garden or the amusement of visitors. A great 
 source of delight to children here is a ride on the back of an 
 elephant or camel, or a drive in a carriage drawn by other strange 
 animals. The charges fixed by tariff are: camel 50 c., elephant 
 25 c. , ostrich carriage 50 c., donkey and zebra carriage 25 c., 
 pony carriage 50 c. Beyond the principal stable the walk forms 
 a bend and passes the chalet of the Alpacas und Lamas , the 
 rock of the Porcupines, and the enclosure of the Reindeers. Behind 
 this last is the Roeher Artifc.iel for chamois, mountain-goats, and 
 other climbing animals. To the r. of the walk is the Buffet and 
 the Laiterie, or dairy, where about 600 cups of fresh milk are sold 
 daily (40 c.). 
 
 The * Aquarium, consisting of ten glass reservoirs of sea-water 
 and four of fresh, affords the visitor an admirable opportunity 
 for observing the habits of the finny tribe and many curious 
 subaqueous animals. Opposite the aquarium, on the 1. side of 
 the walk, is the Chalet des Antilopes. Nearer the entrance is 
 the Chalet des Cerfs. To the r. of the principal walk is the 
 
9. PARC DE MONCEAUX. 
 
 133 
 
 Chenil , containing thorough-bred dogs, whose genealogy is care¬ 
 fully recorded. Beyond this is the Aviary , and finally, by the 
 chief entrance, the beautiful * Hot-home , or winter-garden, con¬ 
 taining a very fine collection of rare plants, and admirably arranged. 
 In connection with it is a reading-room and a botanical library. 
 
 After having thus made the circuit of the garden, we have 
 still to visit the central part of it, where the brook flowing 
 from the artificial lakes in the Bois de Boulogne forms a pond, 
 containing all kinds of aquatic birds, a basin for seals, and 
 many curious and strange-looking animals. — On the 1. bank 
 of this brook is the Kiosque des Concerts, where a band of forty 
 musicians plays twice a week. 
 
 The Pavilion d’Armenonville is a restaurant near the entrance 
 to the garden; Oillet at the Porte Maillot, and Madrid at the 
 Porte de Madrid may also be mentioned. 
 
 9. Parc de Monceaux. 
 
 The Parc de Monceaux (PL, red, 4), '/•> M. distant from the 
 Arc de l’Etoile, by the Avenue de la Heine Hortense, and 
 about 1 M. from the Madeleine, by the Boulevard Malesherbes, is 
 another promenade which affords a pleasant retreat from the noise 
 and bustle of the town. The omnibuses from the Pantheon to 
 Gourcelles, Line AF, will convey visitors from the Madeleine or the 
 Place de la Concorde to the park. 
 
 These grounds, which formerly belonged to the domain of 
 Monceaux, or Mousseaux , once part of the lordship of Cluny, 
 were purchased by Philip of Orleans , Egalite, father of Louis 
 Philippe, in 1778, and newly laid out under the directions of 
 Carmontel , in a style intended to be entirely novel, differing 
 from both French and English established notions, so as to 
 surprise and delight the visitor at every step. This intention was 
 carried out with considerable success, and the park became one 
 of the most fashionable resorts of the 'beau monde’. Balls, plays, 
 and fetes of the most brilliant description were celebrated here, 
 on which occasions few could vie with the Duchess of Chartres, 
 Louise Marie de Bourbon - Penthievre, mother of Louis Philippe, 
 in gorgeousness of attire and beauty of person. 
 
 The Revolution converted the park into national property. 
 Napoleon 1. presented it to his chancellor Cambaceres, who how¬ 
 ever soon restored it to his imperial master, on account of the 
 great expense in which it involved him. At the Restoration it 
 again became the property of the house of Orleans. After having 
 been employed in 1848 for the ‘national ateliers’, it eventually 
 came into the possession of the town, and has under the direction 
 of Alphand been converted into a charming public promenade 
 for carriages, riders, and foot-passengers. It is now reduced in 
 
134 
 
 10. RUE DE RIVOLI. 
 
 extent, being 18 acres only in area, and it cannot vie with the 
 Bois de Boulogne, the Buttes Chaumont, or the Bois de Vincennes, 
 but it has the advantage of offering a pleasant and refreshing 
 retreat within the precincts of the city. 
 
 The park is connected with the town by the broad boule¬ 
 vards above mentioned, and has four entrances, which are closed 
 at night. The grounds now contain few traces of their original 
 unique character. The Naumachie is an oval sheet of water bounded 
 by a semicircular Corinthian colonnade; there is also a rocky 
 eminence with an artificial grotto , and a tomb in the form of a 
 pyramid in the midst of a grove. 
 
 The gilded dome of the Russian church (p. 126), which is 
 situated near the park, is seen from the gate on the side next 
 to the Avenue de la Reine Hortense. 
 
 In returning from the Parc de Monceaux to the city the 
 traveller may take the opportunity of visiting those points of 
 interest which lie to the N. of the Boulevards (p. 149). 
 
 10. The Rue de Rivoli. 
 
 S't. Germain V Auxerrois. Boulevard de Sebastopol. Tour St. Jacques. 
 
 Place du Chdtelet. St. Merri. 
 
 The Rue de Rivoli, after the boulevards, is one of the hand¬ 
 somest streets in Paris and one of the most important of its 
 arteries of traffic. It extends in nearly a straight line parallel 
 with the Seine, from the Place de la Concorde to the Rue 
 St. Antoine, near the Place du Trone, a distance of l 3 / 4 M. It 
 passes the garden of the Tuileries, the Louvre, and the Place 
 du Palais Royal, this part of the street being flanked by a hand¬ 
 some arcade on the N. side, upwards of l /% M. in length, where 
 there are many attractive shops and hotels of the highest class. 
 The continuity of the arcades is at present broken in consequence 
 of the destruction of the Ministere des Finances by the Commu¬ 
 nists , the site of which is still vacant. This fine street was 
 constructed between 1805 and 1865, having been finally com¬ 
 pleted during the second empire by the demolition of 300 houses 
 between the Place du Palais Royal and the Hotel de Ville. In 
 Feb., 1874, an Equestrian Statue of Joan of Arc , in bronze, 
 was erected in the small Place de Rivoli , or des Pyramides , 
 opposite the side-entrance to the Jardin des Tuileries, a work 
 which has been somewhat severely criticised by connoisseurs. 
 
 To the N. of the Place du Louvre, but partially concealed 
 by the last arcades, rises the Temple de VOratoire, a large church 
 erected by the priests of the Oratoire in 1621, but now used as a 
 Presbyterian place of worship (p. -/I). Service in French at 11. 30, 
 and in English at 3 p. m. The entrance is in the Rue St. Honore. 
 
10. HUE DE RIVOLI. 
 
 135 
 
 Opposite the colonnade of the Louvre, to the r. of the tower 
 mentioned below, rises the. church of — 
 
 *St. Germain 1’Auxerrois, once frequented by the royal family. 
 It belongs in its present form to the close of the 15th cent., 
 when the purity of the Gothic style had begun to be lost in 
 richness of decoration. From the tower near the transept once 
 resounded the preconcerted signal for the massacre of St. Bar¬ 
 tholomew. During the whole of that fearful night the bell unre¬ 
 mittingly tolled its funeral peal. 
 
 On 14th Feb., 1831, the anniversary of the murder of the 
 Due de Berry, a solemn mass was being performed here to his 
 memory by the partizans of the elder branch of the Bourbon 
 family, when the populace forced their way into the sacred edi¬ 
 fice, ejected the priests, and compelled the authorities to keep the 
 church closed for a considerable time. It was afterwards used as 
 an office for the mayor of the 4tli Arrondissement, but was re¬ 
 opened as a church in 1838. 
 
 The *Porch consists of three large and two small arcades , sur¬ 
 mounted by a kind of terrace with a balustrade. The facade 
 is pierced with a rich Flamboyant rose window , flanked by two 
 small towers, and terminated by a gable crowned with an Angel 
 of the Last Judgment by Marochetti. The walls of the porch 
 are adorned with frescoes on a gold ground, by Mottez. In the 
 centre: Christ on the Cross, surrounded by saints among whom 
 is the Maid of Orleans ; between the principal and the lateral por¬ 
 tals, on the 1. the Sermon on the Mount, and on the r. the Mount 
 of Olives; over the lateral portals, Jesus in the Temple, and the 
 Descent of the Holy Ghost. These frescoes are unfortunately in 
 bad preservation. 
 
 The church is entered by three portals in the facade, the one in 
 the centre being adorned with statues and gilded statuettes. That 
 of the Virgin on the pier is modern. 
 
 The Interior consists of nave and double aisles, and is sur¬ 
 rounded with chapels. The lowness of the roof gives it a depressed 
 character. The decorations are modern. The walls are covered 
 with frescoes, the finest of which is a Descent from the Cross, in 
 the S. transept, by Guichurd (1845). The large chapel of Notre 
 Dame, to the r. of the entrance, occupying the whole of this side 
 of the church as far as the transept, is closed by handsome wood¬ 
 work and contains a Gothic altar with paintings on a gold ground, 
 and modern stained glass. 
 
 The marble *Basin for holy water in the S. transept, de¬ 
 signed by Mme de Lamartine and executed by Jouffroy, deserves 
 inspection. It consists of three shells, and is surmounted by a 
 finely sculptured group of three angels around a cross. 
 
 The first chapel of the choir beyond the Sacristy contains mon¬ 
 uments in marble to the chancellor Etienne d'Aliyre (d. 1635) 
 
136 
 
 10. RUE T)E RTVOUT. 
 
 and his son (d. 1674). The contiguous chapel contains a figure 
 in marble of ail angel praying. The paintings in this part of the 
 church are insufficiently lighted. 
 
 The chapel beyond that of the apse contains two statues from a 
 mausoleum of the Rostaing family. The chapel after the next 
 contains a monument to St. Denis, who is said to have been inter¬ 
 red at this spot after his martyrdom. The chapel of Notre Dame 
 de la Compassion, adjoining theN. transept, contains an altar-piece 
 in wood in the Flamboyant style, representing the history of Christ 
 and the Virgin. The pillars of the nave were converted into fluted 
 columns in the 17th cent., and the handsome wood-work of the 
 ‘banc d’ceuvre’ dates from the same period. 
 
 With a view to give uniformity to this Place opposite the 
 colonnade of the Louvre, the new Mairie of the first arrondisse- 
 ment has been erected in the same style as the church of St. Ger¬ 
 main l’Auxerrois, on the opposite side of the Place. The tower 
 between the two was built simply to fill up the vacant space, 
 a stop-gap which cost 2 million francs. It contains a ‘carillon’, 
 or chimes, of 38 bells, which do not at present play. 
 
 We now continue to follow the Rue de Rivoli towards the E., 
 and soon cross the Boulevard de Sebastopol (p. 65), one of the 
 magnificent streets constructed under Napoleon HI. by M. Hauss- 
 mann, Pre'fet de la Seine. 
 
 In the small public garden which lies at the intersection of these 
 streets rises the *Tour St. Jacques, a handsome square Gothic tower, 
 175 ft. in height, erected in 1508—22, a relic of the church of 
 St. Jacques de La Boucherie which was taken down in 1789 and 
 sold as national property. The view from the summit (fee 10 c.) 
 is the finest in Paris, as the tower occupies a very central po¬ 
 sition ; in the immediate vicinity flows the Seine, with its numerous 
 bridges, at the spectator’s feet lie the modern buildings of the 
 Rue de Rivoli and Boulevard de Sebastopol, and the Place de 
 l’Hotel de Ville. The purchase and restoration of the tower have 
 cost the city nearly a million francs. In the hall on the ground- 
 floor is a statue of the philosopher Pascal, who on the summit of 
 this tower made his first experiments with regard to the atmo¬ 
 spheric pressure. 
 
 To the N. of this point the Boulevard de Sebastopol intersects 
 the great Boulevards (p. 59) between the Porte St. Martin and the 
 Porte St. Denis, and its continuation thence to the Strasbourg 
 station is termed Boulevard de Strasbourg. A little to the S. of 
 the Tour St. Jacques is situated the Place du Chatelet, which 
 is open on the side next the Seine. The Fontaine de la Victoire , 
 designed by Bosio, and erected here in 1807, commemorates the 
 victories gained by Napoleon I. It is adorned with four figures 
 representing Fidelity, Vigilance, Justice, and Power, and sur- 
 
11. HOTEL DE YILLE. 
 
 137 
 
 mounted by the ‘Colonne du Palmier', on the bronze shaft of which 
 are inscribed the names of battles. On the summit is a statue of 
 Victory, with outstretched hands, as if in the act of distributing 
 laurels. The monument originally stood farther from the Seine, 
 but was removed entire to its present position on the construction 
 of the Boulevard de Sebastopol. On the r. and 1. of the Place 
 du Chatelet are situated the Theatre Lyrique , burned down in 
 1871, but now in course of being rebuilt, and the Theatre du 
 Ch&telet respectively (comp. pp. 46, 48). 
 
 The Pont au Change, formerly a bridge of moderate width, 
 but now of equal breadth with the Boulevard itself, crosses an 
 arm of the Seine here to the island of the Cite, and leads to the street 
 passing between the Palais de Justice (p. 179) and the Tribunal 
 de Commerce. The street to the 1. leads to Notre Dame (p. 175). 
 Farther on are the Pont and the Fontaine St. Michel (p. 184). 
 
 In the Rue St. Martin, a little to the N. E. of the Tour 
 St. Jacques, rises the church of St. Merri, a good Gothic, building, 
 although begun as late as 1520, and not completed till 1612. It pos¬ 
 sesses a beautiful portal in the Flamboyant style. The large chapel 
 to the r. is a Renaissance structure, containing statues by Debay. 
 The interior is adorned with fine modern frescoes by Lehmann, 
 Duval , Chasseriau (d. 1856), arid Lepauile, and with two pictures 
 by Vanloo (d. 1765), one on each side of the entrance to the choir. 
 
 Not far from St. Merri, on the other side of the Boulevard de 
 Sebastopol, are the Halles Centrales and the church of St. Eustache 
 (p. 141). 
 
 11. H&tel de Ville. 
 
 St. Oervais. Muste Carnavalet . 
 
 The Hdtel de Ville, or town-hall of Paris, was entirely destroyed 
 by fire on 24th May, 1871. The ruins are not accessible to the 
 public. No edifice in Paris was so interesting, architecturally and 
 historically, none has passed through such varied vicissitudes, 
 and none has been overtaken with such utter ruin as this noble 
 pile. The loss to Paris is irreparable, and the value of the property 
 destroyed, including the library of 100,000 vols. and numerous 
 important public documents, incalculable. The construction of 
 this once magnificent edifice was begun in 1533, but was sus¬ 
 pended until the reign of Henri IV., when it was completed by 
 the Italian architect Domenico da Cortona in 1628, in the 
 Renaissance style, with columns chiefly of the Corinthian order. 
 
 As the original building afforded too little accommodation for 
 the residence and offices of the chief municipal functionary of 
 Paris, who was called 'Prevot des Marchands ’ down to 1789, and 
 afterwards ‘ Prefet de la Seine , it was gradually enlarged; and 
 when the additions were completed in 1841, the edifice was four 
 
138 
 
 11. HOTEL DE VILLE. 
 
 times the size of the Hotel de Ville of Henri IV. Notwith¬ 
 standing its vast size, it was again found necessary in 1857 to 
 make further provision for the offices of the Prefecture by erecting 
 two buildings opposite the principal facade, on the other side of 
 the Place. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville was in the form of a rectangle, 330 ft. 
 long, and 276 ft. wide, with 25 windows on one side and 19 on 
 the other; it stood in an open situation, and contained three 
 courts within its precincts. The niches contained statues of cele¬ 
 brated Parisians of all ages, down to Bailly, mayor of Paris at 
 the outbreak of the first Revolution, and Lafayette, commandant 
 of the National Guard in 1830. Over the principal entrance was 
 placed an equestrian figure of Henri IV. in bronze. Several of 
 these statues have escaped destruction , but not without serious 
 injury. 
 
 The first quadrangle was adorned with a bronze statue of Louis XIV., 
 in Roman garb, and wearing a wig, by Coysevox, and the walls 
 bore inscriptions recording the achievements of that monarch. 
 
 The splendour-loving metropolis had done its utmost to enable 
 the Prdfet de la Seine to perform his functions with becoming 
 magnificence. The reception and ball-rooms on the first floor 
 were fitted up in a style so gorgeous as entirely to eclipse the 
 splendour of the imperial palaces, and the ceilings of several of 
 the apartments were painted by the eminent artists Ingres, 
 Delacroix , Lehmann , Muller, and others. The kitchens of the 
 souterrain were so extensive that a banquet for 1000 persons 
 could be prepared without difficulty, as was the case on 14th July, 
 1856, when Napoleon III. and the empress were entertained by 
 the Prefet on the occasion of the baptism of the imperial prince. 
 
 The municipal staff of 500 officials formerly employed at the 
 Hotel de Ville is at present established in the Palais du Luxem¬ 
 bourg (p. 185). The prefect is the superior officer of the twenty 
 maires of Paris, each of whom presides over an arrondissement, 
 and of the sous-prefets of the districts of St. Denis and Sceaux, 
 which together with the city itself constitute the Department of 
 the Seine. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville has played a conspicuous part in the 
 different revolutions, having been the usual rallying place for the 
 democratic party. On 14th July, 1789, the captors of the Bastille 
 were conducted in triumph into the great hall. Three days later 
 Louis XVI. was brought to the same apartment from Versailles, 
 accompanied by a dense mob, who were somewhat pacified when 
 the king presented himself at the window with a tricoloured 
 cockade given him by Bailly, the maire. On 27th July 
 1794 f9th Thermidor), when the Commune, the tool employed 
 by Robespierre against the Convention, was holding one of its 
 meetings here, Barras with five battalions forced his entrance in 
 
11. HOTEL DE VILLE. 
 
 139 
 
 the name of the Convention , and Ilobespierre, to escape arrest, 
 attempted to shoot himself, but only succeeded in shattering his jaw. 
 Here was also celebrated the union of the July Monarchy with 
 the bourgeoisie, when Louis Philippe presented himself at one 
 of the windows, in August, 1830, and in view of the populace 
 embraced General Lafayette. From the steps of the Hotel de 
 Ville, on 24th Feb., 1848, Louis Blanc proclaimed the insti¬ 
 tution of the republic. 
 
 From 4th Sept., 1870, to 28th Feb., 1871, the Hotel de 
 Ville was the seat of the ‘gouvernement de la defense nationale’, 
 and from 19th March to 22nd May, 1871, that of the Communist 
 usurpers and their pretended ‘comite' du saint public’. In accor¬ 
 dance with a secret resolution passed by the ringleaders of 
 these miscreants on 20th May (comp. p. 116), heaps of combustibles 
 soaked with petroleum, and barrels of gunpowder were placed in 
 various parts of the building. At the same time the insurgents 
 had strongly barricaded every approach to the building, which from 
 the first had been the great centre of their operations, and where 
 they had accumulated every possible means of defence. On the 
 morning of 24th May a fearful struggle began in the Place de 
 l’Hotel de Ville, and was protracted without intermission until 
 the following morning. As the insurgents were gradually driven 
 back, they gave vent to their rage and despair by setting on fire 
 many of the surrounding buildings and murdering the inhabitants, 
 while two of their number, specially charged with the task by 
 the commandant Pindy, ignited the combustibles in the Hotel 
 de Ville, although about 600 of their party were still within its 
 precincts. The troops, now masters of the whole neighbourhood, 
 directed an incessant fire against the devoted building and its 
 unhappy occupants, all of whom perished. No quarter was given 
 to those who attempted to escape from the blazing pile, while 
 those who remained within its walls met with a still more appalling 
 fate. The wild and distorted aspect which the ruins presented 
 immediately after these events was due to the fearful explosion 
 of gunpowder which took place during the fire. Almost all 
 traces of the disaster have since been removed, the site is en¬ 
 closed by a hoarding, and the edifice is to be rebuilt in its 
 original form. 
 
 Napoleon III. greatly improved the appearance of the edifice 
 by the removal of the squalid lanes and alleys by which it was 
 formerly surrounded, and which have been so graphically depicted 
 by Eugene Sue. Another work of the late rdgime is the extensive 
 Caserne Napoleon, erected in 1854, capable of accommodating 
 2500 men, situated at the back of the Hotel de Ville and con¬ 
 nected with it by means of subterranean passages. Adjacent to 
 it, on the quay, is the Caserne Lobau, a large cavalry and artillery 
 barrack, erected by Napoleon III. in 1857. These precautionary 
 
140 
 
 11. HOTEL PE YILLE. 
 
 measures were intended to prevent the recurrence of the rebel¬ 
 lious scenes so frequently enacted at the Hotel de Ville, but, 
 owing to the exceptional and anomalous condition of political 
 affairs in May 1871 , they did not avail to check the frenzied 
 career of the Communist insurgents. 
 
 The Place de l Hotel de Ville, formerly named Place de 
 Gr'eve (‘bank of the river’), has also witnessed many a tragedy. 
 During a long series of years the stake and the scaffold exercised 
 their dismal sway here. In 1572, after the massacre of St. Bar¬ 
 tholomew , Catharine de Mddicis doomed the Huguenot chiefs 
 Briquemont and Cavagnes to perish ignominiously by the gallows 
 in this Place; and in 1574 she ordered the Comte Montgomery, 
 captain of the Scottish guard, to be tortured and executed here 
 for having accidentally caused the death of her husband Henri 11. 
 at a tournament. Prom that period down to 1789, the Place 
 de Greve witnessed the execution of the numerous victims of a 
 despotic government, as well as criminals; and in the July of 
 that year, after the capture of the Bastille by the populace, Foil Ion, 
 general controller of finance, and his son-in-law Bertier, the first 
 victims of the Revolution, w'ere hanged on lamp-posts here. 
 
 The Guillotine, an instrument for the decapitation of criminals 
 recommended by the physician Guillotin to the Convention, was 
 first used in the Place de Greve, whence it was soon removed 
 to the Place de la Concorde (p. 120). Prom 1795 down to 
 
 the July Revolution the Place again became the usual place of 
 execution, but during that period these revolting scenes were 
 comparatively rare. 
 
 At the back of the Hotel de Ville rises the church of 
 
 St. Gervais et St. Protais, which dates chiefly from the 15th and 
 16th cent., and presents a combination of the Flamboyant and 
 
 Renaissance styles. The heavy portal added by Debrosse in 
 
 1616, and formerly considered a fine work, is in the Doric, 
 Ionic, and Corinthian orders, placed one above the other. The 
 interior, which is remarkable for its height and the pendentives 
 of its vaulting, contains several valuable paintings. In the chapel 
 of St. Denis, the third on the 1., is a Passion, painted on wood, 
 in nine sections, a work of the German school of the 15th cen¬ 
 tury. In the second chapel on the 1. is a bas-relief in stone, of 
 the 13th cent. , representing Christ receiving the soul of the 
 Virgin. To the r. of the apse is the Mausolee of Michael le 
 Tellier. The candelabra and a bronze crucifix on the high altar 
 are good works of the 18th cent. ; the stalls are of the 16th. 
 The second chapel on the r. and that of Notre Dame contain 
 stained glass by Jean Cousin (1500—1589), restored. On the r. 
 a Crucifixion, by Preault. 
 
 At the beginning of the Rue St. Antoine, on the r., is the church 
 of St. Paul et St. Louis , erected 1627—1641, with a handsome 
 
12. ST. EUSTACHE. 
 
 141 
 
 portal in the Renaissance style, and covered with a dome. Interior 
 richly decorated. The building to the r. is the Lycee Charlemagne. 
 
 Opposite this building begins the Rue Sevigne, formerly Rue 
 Culture St. Catherine, which marks the termination of the Rue de 
 Rivoli, and the beginning of the Rue St. Antoine. At No. 23 Rue 
 Sevigne is the — 
 
 Musee Municipal, or Musee Carnavalet , so named after the 
 former proprietor of the house. This building, which was erected 
 in the latter half of the 16th century, and was purchased and 
 thoroughly restored by the city in 1869, was for twenty years the 
 residence of Mme de Se'vignd. The museum consists of the: (1) 
 Musee Lapidaire, containing the architectural fragments and sculp¬ 
 tures excavated in various parts of Paris by the municipal engineers ; 
 (2) Musee de Decoration et Ameublement , comprising most of the 
 objects of value found during the demolition of old Parisian build¬ 
 ings , such as doors, windows, panels, and insignia of guilds and 
 corporations; (3) Musee Technologique , consisting of 10,000 speci¬ 
 mens of tools and utensils used by the different classes of Parisian 
 society during the middle ages and the Renaissance period. 
 
 12. St. Eustache. 
 
 Malles Centrales. Fontaine des Innocents. 
 
 The church of *St. Eustache, situated atthe S.;end ofthe Rue Mont¬ 
 martre, opposite the Halles Centrales (p. 109), and not far from the 
 Louvre, is one of the most important, though not the most interesting 
 buildings in Paris. Itpresentsastrange mixture of degenerate Gothic 
 and Renaissance architecture. Its erection occupied upwards of 
 a century, 1532 — 1637, while the W. portal with its Doric and 
 Ionic columns was begun in 1752, and has only recently been 
 completed. The choir was seriously damaged during the bombard¬ 
 ment in 1871, but has since been restored. The usual entrance is 
 a small side door near the Rue Montmartre. The church consists 
 of a nave and double aisles, and is 348 ft. in length, 144 ft. in 
 width, and 108 ft. in height. The proportions of the interior are 
 graceful and lofty, and produce a good general effect. 
 
 The chapels, which bear the arms of their founders oveT the 
 arches, are richly decorated, and contain some fine *Frescoes. 
 
 Right Side , beginning from the great portal. In the third bay 
 is the Chapel of St. Cecilia, with ancient frescoes restored by Basset. 
 Next are the chapels of St. Joseph and du Purgatoire, with frescoes 
 by Gourlier and Magimel. The last of these contains a group re¬ 
 presenting the Flagellation and a fine statue in white marble. 
 
 The S. transept, which is now undergoing repair, contains bas- 
 reliefs by Devers , six statues of Apostles by Debny, and large fres¬ 
 coes by Signol representing the Evangelists and the theological 
 virtues. 
 
142 
 
 12. ST. EUSTACHE. 
 
 Farther on are three chapels adorned by La Riviere , Vaugelet, 
 and Lazerges. The next contains ancient frescoes revived by Cornu. 
 Those of the following chapel are by Pits, and those in the bay where 
 the above mentioned side door is situated, by Dumery nn&Biennourry. 
 
 The paintings in the ancient chapel which contains the entrance 
 to the Salle des Catdchismes are by Signol. 
 
 The large Chapelle de la Vierye which follows was added at the 
 beginning of the present century. The altar is surmounted by a 
 tine statue of the Virgin by Pigalle (d. 1785). The frescoes are by 
 Couture. The vault of this chapel still bears traces of the damage it 
 sustained in 1871, and the stained glass is undergoing restoration. 
 
 The next chapel, with frescoes by Bezard , contains the monu¬ 
 ment of Colbert (d. 1683), the able minister of finance of Louis 
 XIV., consisting of a sarcophagus of black marble, with a figure in 
 white marble of Colbert in a kneeling posture, by Coysevox (d. 1720); 
 at one end is a statue of Abundance by Coysevox, at the other a 
 statue of Religion by Tubi (d. 1700). 
 
 Continuing to make the circuit of the choir we observe five other 
 chapels betw'een the last mentioned and the transept, containing 
 frescoes by Delorme , Basset (ancient frescoes restored), Serrus, 
 *Pichon , and * Felix Barrias, the last of which represent scenes from 
 the life of St. Louis. 
 
 The short N. transept is also richly adorned with bas-reliefs, 
 statues of Apostles, and large frescoes by the same masters as those 
 in the S. transept. Above a basin for holy water is a fine group of 
 Pope Alexander I., by whom the use of holy water was introduced. 
 The handsome portal on the N. side, constructed in the 16th cent, 
 in a style appropriate to the church, opening on a small street 
 which leads to the Rue Montmartre. 
 
 Returning to the interior, we next pass the chapel of St. Eu- 
 stache, containing the relics of the saint, who was a Roman general 
 under the name of Placidus in the reign of the Emp. Titus, and 
 adorned with frescoes from his history by Le Henaff. The frescoes 
 of the 16th cent, in the next chapel were restored by Basset; those 
 in the three next are by Riesener , Marquis , and Glaize. 
 
 The high altar in white marble, the modern pulpit in carved 
 wood by Moisy and Pianet, the woodwork of the ‘banc d’oeuvre’, and 
 the Organ are also worthy of note. This instrument, which has 
 twice been destroyed, and has lately been reconstructed by Cavalie , 
 is one of the best in Paris. St. Eustaehe is one of the most fre¬ 
 quented churches in the city, especially on festivals, on account of 
 the excellence of the music. 
 
 Opposite the church rise the *Halles Centrales (p. 37), a vast 
 structure, chiefly of iron, and covered with zinc, erected by the 
 architect Bultard (d. 1874). The Halles consist of twelve pavilions 
 (ten completed), between which run covered streets, 48 ft. wide, 
 and 48 ft. in height, and are intersected by a boulevard 105 ft. 
 
13. BIBLIOTHfcQUE NATIONALE. 
 
 143 
 
 in -width, extending from the Pointe St. Eustache to wards the 
 Itue de Hivoli. The six pavilions on the E. side of the boule¬ 
 vard occupy a space of 182 by 136 yds. , and the whole market 
 when complete will cover an area of 19 acres. The expense of 
 purchasing the site and erecting the Halles has amounted to 60 
 million francs. Each pavilion contains 250 stalls, the area of each 
 of which is about 40 sq. ft. Besides these there are no fewer than 
 1200 cellars under the Halles for the storage of goods, each 12 ft. 
 in height, and lighted with gas. They are reached by stairs de¬ 
 scending from the corner pavilions. A subterranean railway to con¬ 
 nect these vast magazines with the Chemin de Per de Ceinture is 
 projected. 
 
 The Halles occupy the ancient Marche des Innocents, a 
 market used as early as the 10th century. The Fontaine des 
 Innocents, which once rose in the centre of the market-place, a 
 charming work by Jean Goujon , the celebrated sculptor of the 
 Caryatides in the Louvre (p. 90), has been removed to the oppo¬ 
 site end from St. Eustache , and now stands in the centre of a 
 square skirted by the Rue St. Denis. 
 
 The fountain, which is square in form , rises in six gradations, 
 forming as many basins, and is pierced with four arcades with 
 naiads on each side and Corinthian pilasters. Above is a rich en¬ 
 tablature, an attic with bas-reliefs, and triangular pediments, and 
 the whole is crowned with a dome covered with plates of copper in 
 the form of scales. In the interior rises a cup from which the 
 water descends copiously into the basins. 
 
 In order to complete the Halles Centrales the mass of houses 
 which separate it on the W. side from the Halle au Ble, or corn- 
 hall, is to be swept away. This building, which is covered with a 
 cupola, situated in the Rue de Viarmes, was erected in 1662, 
 burned down in 1802, and rebuilt in 1811. A little to the S. of 
 this building rises a fluted Doric column, 100 ft. in height and 
 10 ft. in diameter, erected in 1572 by order of Catherine de Medicis 
 for the purpose, it is said, of making astronomical observations. — 
 It is proposed to improve this part of the city by the removal of 
 some of the narrow old streets. 
 
 13. Bibliotheque Nationale. 
 
 Place Louvois. Fontaine Moli&re. 
 
 The library is open daily, 10 — 4 o’clock, no day being excepted in 
 the case of the public hall, or old reading-room, but the other rooms 
 are closed on Sundays, holidays, and for a fortnight at Easter. 
 Ordinary visitors are admitted to the collection of coins and medals 
 only (p. 145), all the other rooms being reserved for persons desir¬ 
 ous of studying or consulting books. The old library building 
 is undergoing a gradual restoration and extension. The handsome 
 
144 
 
 12. BIBLIOTHfiQUE NATION ALE. 
 
 modern facade, separated by a railing and a court from the Rue 
 Vivienne, and the facade towards the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs 
 belong to the new works. A magnificent reading-room, entered 
 from the Rue Richelieu, has also been lately completed. 
 
 The entrance is by No. 58 Rue Richelieu, adjoining the small 
 Place Louvois , or Richelieu, in which the Grand-Opera formerly 
 stood. After the assassination of the Due de Berry by Louvel, 
 which occurred here on 13th Feb., 1820, as the audience was 
 quitting the opera, the building was demolished, and it was re¬ 
 solved to construct a ‘ chapelle expiatoire’ on the site. This project 
 was abandoned after the revolution of 1830, and a * Fountain 
 designed by Visconti , with statues representing the Seine, the 
 Loire, the Garonne, and the Saone, by Kragmann , was then 
 erected on the spot. In 1859 the Place was planted with trees and 
 converted into a square. 
 
 The entrance to the old Salle de Lecture, which is open to the 
 public for purposes of study, is temporarily by No. 3 Rue Colbert, 
 the street to the 1. of the principal gate, while that of the new 
 Salle de Travail is a little below that gate, near the fire-engine 
 station. This last is only open to persons provided with tickets 
 procured from the Conservateur de la Biblioth&que, Rue Neuve des 
 Petits Champs, No. 8. Sticks and umbrellas must be left at the en¬ 
 trance, but no charge is made for their custody. Visitors are not 
 permitted to quit the building with books, papers, or portfolios in 
 their hands without a ‘laissez-passer’ from one of the librarians. 
 
 The great public Library of Paris, once the Bibliotheque du 
 Roi or Royale , then in 1792 and 1848 the Nationale , under 
 Napoleon I. and Napoleon III. the Imperiale, and since 1870 
 again the Bibliotheque Nationale , is probably the most extensive 
 in the world. The building in which it is preserved consists 
 of a vast block bounded by four streets, the Rue Colbert, the 
 Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, the Rue Vivienne, and the Rue 
 Richelieu. 
 
 A considerable part of this old and gloomy building was 
 once the palace of Cardinal Mazarin (d. 1661), the all-powerful 
 minister of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. 
 
 The number of books (3,000,000) and MSS. (150,000) is so 
 enormous, that the book-cases containing them would, if placed in 
 a continuous line, extend to a distance of 16 M. Most of the books 
 are copies of the rarest and choicest editions, and are carefully 
 bound. The Geographical Collection contains about 300,000 maps, 
 plans, etc.; the topography of Paris alone occupies 56 large folios. 
 The Collection of Engravings, to the r. on the ground-floor, con¬ 
 sists of 8000 vols. and upwards of 1,300,000 plates. The present 
 edifice having been found totally inadequate for so vast a collec¬ 
 tion, is now undergoing extensive alterations. 
 
 According to the arrangement established on 23rd Aug., 1858, 
 
12. BIBLIOTHEQl'E NATION ALE. 
 
 145 
 
 the library contains four different departments: 1. Departement 
 des Livres Imprimes, Cartes et Collections Gdographiques; 2. Dd- 
 partement des Manuscrits; 3. Departement des Estampes; 4. De'- 
 partement des Medailles et Antiques. Since 1853 upwards of 
 50,000 fr. have been expended annually on the preparation of a 
 printed catalogue, of which eleven volumes only are completed, 
 nine of them containing a list of works on the history of France, 
 and two containing medical works. 
 
 Foreign scholars receive every attention from the librarians, 
 and will be promptly supplied with the books they want. 
 
 On entering the reading-rooms the visitor receives two slips of 
 paper(‘bulletins’). On one of these he writes the name of the book 
 he desires to consult, and also his own name and address, and 
 gives it to one of the employes at the oftice in the centre of the hall. 
 He then waits till the employe returns and calls out the name of 
 the book. In the new reading-room, however, where the seats are 
 numbered, the visitor, after having presented his bulletin, will 
 have the book brought to him, and there will be no necessity for 
 calling out the names. The second bulletin, on which the visitor's 
 name and address must also be written, is used as a check. The 
 employes write upon it the names of the books lent, and stamp it 
 when the books are returned, and the bulletin is then given up to 
 the official at the egress. For farther details and the regulations 
 for other departments, see bills affixed to the doors of the different 
 saloons. 
 
 The Cabinet des Medailles et Antiques is open to the public 
 on Tuesdays from 10. 30 to 3. 30 o’clock. The entrance is in the 
 Hue Richelieu, the door beyond the fire-engine station when 
 approached from the Boulevards, and the first when approached 
 from the Palais Royal (visitors ring). It contains a valuable 
 collection of Coins, Medals (200,000), and Antiques, comprising 
 cut gems, interesting Greek, Roman, and Egyptian curiosities, 
 Babylonian cylindrical blocks of marble inscribed with cuneiform 
 characters, probably used as amulets, jewels, enamels, crystal, 
 vases, and richly decorated weapons. The old saloon specially 
 destined for the collection is undergoing restoration, and the pre¬ 
 sent arrangements are temporary. The old ‘catalogue des pierres 
 gravces, etc.’ (not including the medals) by Chubouillet (12,634 
 pages, price 3’/2 fr.) does not correspond with the present numbers. 
 An abridgement in accordance with the present arrangement ( price 
 2 fr.) has been made, but is out of print. 
 
 In the entrance-hall and staircase are Roman inscriptions. 
 
 To the 1. is the principal saloon, near the centre of which 
 is a glass cabinet containing the Apotheosis of Auyustus, the gem 
 ot the collection and the largest cameo in the world, consisting 
 Of a sardonyx nearly 1 ft. in diameter; among the fifteen diffe¬ 
 rent figures are Augustus, rEneas, Julius Catsar, Drusus, Tiberius, 
 
 BaiOEKKK. Paris. 4th Edition. jQ 
 
146 
 
 13. BTBLTOTHfiQUE NATTONALE. 
 
 Livia, Agrippina, GermiShicus, and Caligula. This cameo was 
 formerly preserved in the treasury of the Sainte Chapelle (p. 18T), 
 and was erroneously believed to represent a triumphal procession 
 of Joseph in Egypt. 
 
 The same glass case also contains, to the right of the cameo, a 
 tray and cruet named the Tresor de Gourdon, from the village of 
 that name in the Ddpartoment de la Cote d'Or where they were 
 found; the Cup of Chosroes I., composed of medallions in rock cry¬ 
 stal and glass of two colours, framed in solid gold, the one in the 
 centre representing Chosroes I. (d. 232) on his throne; this val¬ 
 uable work of Oriental art was formerly preserved in the treasury 
 of St. Denis, and was at one time known as the ‘Cup of Solomon’. 
 Near the latter is the agate Cup of the Ptolemies, also from the treas¬ 
 ury of St. Denis, with groups representing the mysteries of Ceres 
 and Bacchus. To the left of the great cameo is an antique Boat in 
 sardonyx, mounted in gold in the middle ages; the Pat'ere de Rennes , 
 a sacrificial cup, found in 1744 near Rennes in Bretagne, re¬ 
 presenting the drinking contest of Bacchus and Hercules, and 
 adorned on the margin with sixteen golden medallions of emperors 
 and empresses; a bust of Constantine I. (d. 337) in gold and 
 agate. Among the adjacent antiques in gold is a diadem found in 
 a tomb at Athens. 
 
 The glass cabinet adjoining the one in the centre contains medieval 
 and Renaissance works, among which is a large ivory vase with 
 silver gilt mounting, adorned with precious stones, and with a 
 cavalry battle represented on its side. To the r. is a silver casket 
 of the 16th cent.; a sword of the knights of Malta; an oval me¬ 
 dallion representing a young girl by Mino da Fiesole ; on the op¬ 
 posite side the bust of a child, a Florentine work of the loth 
 cent. ; a bas-relief in marble representing Christ surrounded by 
 children. 
 
 A glass cabinet at the end of the room, in thel. corner, contains 
 relics from the tomb of Childerie (d.481), king of the Franks, in the 
 church of St. Brice at Tournai in Belgium, discovered in 1655. 
 The adjoining cabinet contains a number of small silver images and 
 about seventy other relics, found near Berthouville, in the De- 
 partement de l’Eure, dating from the early Roman empire, and 
 believed to have belonged to the treasury of the temple of 
 Mercury at Canetum. 
 
 Behind the central cabinet is placed a silver disc, 28 inches in 
 diameter, known as the '■Bouclier de Scipion, with reliefs repre¬ 
 senting the restoration of Brise’is to Achilles by the messengers 
 of Agamemnon. This relic was found in the Rhone near Avignon 
 in 1658. Before quitting the room we observe on the r. the '■Mo¬ 
 nument Babylonien , an oval meteoric stone engraved with cunei¬ 
 form and other characters, found near Bagdad ; and near it the Chair 
 of Dagobert, which was formerly in the Musde des Souverains. 
 
14. CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. 147 
 
 Opposite the principal saloon is the Salle du Due de Luynes, 
 containing objects presented to the library by that nobleman, 
 who was a zealous antiquarian, comprising a number of interest¬ 
 ing ancient coins. On entering, we observe at the end of the 
 room a torso of Venus Anadyomene in Parian marble. 
 
 In the Rue Richelieu , which extends between the lloulevard des 
 Italiens and the Rue de Rivoli, a distance of nearly 3/4 M., at 
 the corner of a street about halfway between the Library and the 
 Place du Theatre Fran?ais, is situated the Fontaine Moliere, 
 erected in 1844 to the memory of the celebrated dramatist, who 
 died in 1673 in the house opposite (No. 34). The monument, 
 50 ft. in height, in the Renaissance style, was designed by 
 Visconti. Moliere is represented seated in a niche; on one side 
 stands the Muse of the more serious description of comedy, on the 
 other the Muse of lighter comedy, bearing scrolls on which the 
 names of Moliere’s works are in scribed. The statue is by Seurre , 
 the other sculptures by Pradier. Inscription: A Moliere ne ti Paris 
 15 Janvier 1022 et mart a Paris 17 Fevrier 1673. Souscription 
 Nationale. 
 
 14. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. 
 
 This institution is situated in the Rue St. Martin, No. 292, 
 near the Porte St. Martin, and facing the new Square des Arts 
 et Me'tiers. Admission 10 — 4 o’clock ; on Sundays and Thursdays, 
 gratis; on Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays, anil Saturdays, 1 fr. 
 
 The * Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, the Polytechnic of 
 Paris, contains probably the most extensive industrial and scien¬ 
 tific collections in Europe. The edifice once belonged to the 
 Benedictine Abbey of St. Martin des Champs , secularised in 1789. 
 The portal erected in 1848—50 bears an inscription recording 
 that the abbey was founded in 1060, that the foundation of the 
 Conservatoire was decreed by the Convention in 1794, and that it 
 was transferred to this edifice in 1798. 
 
 The public lectures given here embrace geometry, mechanics, 
 chemistry, agriculture, the arts of spinning, weaving, dyeing, and 
 printing, natural history, and political economy. 
 
 The principal entrance is in the court, in the centre. Sticks 
 and umbrellas must be left at the ‘vestiaire’ (10 c.). 
 
 The collections are divided into 24 sections, the various ob¬ 
 jects being arranged as appropriately as possible. The copious 
 anil instructive catalogue costs 1 1 /-2 fr. ; but the visitor may dis¬ 
 pense with it, as the objects are all labelled. 
 
 Ground Floor. The Vestibule and the ‘Salle-Kc.ho’ which 
 adjoins it contain ploughs, a rolling machine for metal sheathing, 
 and a model of the screw-steamer ‘Danube’. French and foreign 
 
 10 * 
 
1 48 14. CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. 
 
 ■weights and measures, most of them certified as correct, and the 
 galleries devoted to land-surveying and watch-manufacture. 
 
 On the right are the galleries of metallurgy and mining. Then 
 a room containing samples of grain and vegetables, and models of 
 all kinds of fruit and vegetables. A wing extending towards the garden, 
 termed the Aile du Sud, contains other imitations of fruits and a 
 valuable collection of agricultural machinery and implements. Ad¬ 
 joining the entrance to this wing, in what was formerly the Chapel 
 of the abbey, is a gallery containing machines of various kinds, 
 which are set in motion by steam on Sundays and Thursdays. 
 
 Leaving the machinery department by the same door, we observe 
 a small stair leading to the first floor, but it is preferable to retrace 
 our steps through the saloons of the ground-floor and to ascend by 
 the great stair in the central pavilion. 
 
 First Floor. Opposite is the railway department. 
 
 On the left. The central part of the building being divided 
 lengthwise into two parts by a partition , we shall first visit the left 
 side, where models of steam-engines and hydraulic machines are 
 exhibited. 
 
 A wing looking towards the court contains models of carding, 
 spinning, and weaving machines, and samples of cotton, silk, etc. 
 
 Returning to the great gallery, we observe models of windmills, 
 riding schools, brick and tile yards, and ovens. 
 
 We next pass to the r. into the Aile du Nord, which comprises 
 galleries of crystal, lighting and heating apparatus, and models of 
 workshops and furnaces; galleries of acoustics and optics; the 
 printing saloon; and the glass and pottery department, where the 
 ‘Coupe du Travail’ of Sevres porcelain, representing in bas-relief 
 the practice of the various arts and sciences, is worthy of notice. 
 
 Having made the circuit of this wing we next enter the second 
 gallery of the central part of the building, which is less important 
 than the other, and is termed the Salle de la Ge'ometrie, chiefly 
 containing models of various kinds. 
 
 On the right. The gallery following the Salle de la Geometrie 
 is the Salle de la Mdcanique, containing fire-escapes, indicators, 
 dynamometers, a model of the apparatus used in in the erection of 
 the obelisk of Luxor, models of capstans, cranes, vehicles, etc. 
 
 In the Aile du Sud, to the 1. of the last gallery, is the Salle de 
 Physique, whepe an extensive collection of physical instruments, 
 electrical machines, telegraphic apparatus, ship's compasses, etc. is 
 exhibited. 
 
 There now remains the second gallery of the central building 
 extending as far as the staircase, which contains numerous models 
 of machines used in the manufacture of sugar, gas, and oil, and in 
 distilleries, tools driven by machinery, a beautiful specimen of carv¬ 
 ing, and models of steam-engines. 
 
15. CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE. 
 
 149 
 
 The *Refectory of the ancient abbey, a beautiful Gothic hall, 
 47 yds. in length, and 7 ! / 2 yds. in width, erected about the middle 
 of the 13th cent, by Montereau, the architect of the Sainte Cha- 
 pelle (p. 181), has recently been judiciously litted up as a Li¬ 
 brary (20,000 vols.j. The vaulted ceiling with its handsome 
 moulding is supported by seven slender columns, and the whole 
 saloon is tastefully painted and gilded. The library is open to 
 students only, from 10 to 3 o’clock daily, except on Mondays, 
 when it may be inspected by the public ; a glimpse of it may, 
 however , be obtained on other days. 
 
 Opposite the Conservatoire, between the Hue St. Martin and 
 the Boulevard de Sebastopol , is situated the pleasant Square des 
 Arts et Metiers , in which rises the new Theatre de la Gaite. In 
 the centre of the square rises a lofty column surmounted by a 
 Victory in bronze, by Crank, with a pedestal bearing the names of 
 the Crimean victories. 
 
 The neighbouring church of St. Nicolas des Champs presents 
 no feature of ■interest except its Gothic portal. St. Merri , at the 
 S. end of the street, see p. 137. 
 
 15. Churches to the North of the Old Boulevards. 
 
 Chapelle Expiatoire. til. Augustin. La Trinity. Notre Dame de Lorelte. 
 
 St. Vincent de Paul, (lares <iu Nord et de I'Esl. St. Laurent. 
 
 The most interesting churches on the N. side of Paris are most 
 conveniently visited in the order above indicated, starting from the 
 Madeleine, or else in the reverse direction in case the traveller 
 should happen to be in the neighbourhood of the Boulevard de 
 Strasbourg. In either case the route will be found without diffi¬ 
 culty. 
 
 To the 1. of the Madeleine stretches the Boulevard de Males- 
 herbes, which leads direct to the church of St. Augustin (see be¬ 
 low) and to the Parc de Monceaux (p. 133). Ascending the Rue 
 d’Anjou, the third street on the r. side of this boulevard, as far as 
 the Boulevard Haussmann , we arrive at a Square in which rises 
 the — 
 
 Chapelle Expiatoire, erected by Louis XVIII. in 1820 — 1826 to 
 the memory of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette. It is open at 
 9 o’clock, the hour of daily mass , and may be seen at other times 
 on application to the custodian (50 c.). The principal entrance is 
 an imitation of that of an ancient tomb. The building, which is 
 cruciform and covered with a dome, contains two groups in marble. 
 That to the 1., by Uortot, represents the Oueen supported by Reli¬ 
 gion, a figure which bears the features of Madame Elizabeth , the 
 queen’s sister, who was guillotined on 12th May. 1194. Inscribed 
 on the monument is the last letter addressed by the queen to her 
 sister-in-law. The group to the r., by Bosio, represents Louis XVI. 
 
150 
 
 15. ST. AUGUSTIN. 
 
 and an angel who addresses him with the words, ‘ Fils de St. Louis, 
 montez an del!’ Below is inscribed the last will of the king. 
 Above the portal, in the interior, is a bas-relief by Lemaire, repre¬ 
 senting the removal of the remains of the king and queen from the 
 cemetery of the Madeleine, on the site of which the chapel now 
 stands, to the church of St. Denis. Stairs on each side of the 
 altar descend to a crypt where the anniversaries of the deaths of 
 these illustrious victims of the Revolution are commemorated on 
 21st January and 16th October. 
 
 On the N. side of the chapel is the Boulevard Haussmann, by 
 which, turning to the 1., we' soon regain the Boulevard Malesherbes. 
 The latter soon leads towards the N. to the church of — 
 
 St. Augustin , an edilice in a modernised Romanesque style, 
 by Baltard (d. 1874). The church is in the form of an irregular 
 triangle, towards the base of which rises a dome 80 ft. in dia¬ 
 meter and 160 ft. in height, crowned with an elegant lantern, and 
 flanked with four dome-covered turrets. The portal consists of three 
 arches surmounted by a frieze representing the Twelve Apostles, and 
 a triangular pediment. Iron has been used in the construction of 
 the church in such a -way as to obviate the necessity for pillars or 
 columns, which too often obstruct the view. In the interior are 
 paintings by Signol, Brissot , and others, those in the dome and the 
 chapel of Notre Dame being the finest. The high altar, standing 
 beneath a sumptuous canopy, is situated above an extensive 
 crypt. Behind it are several large chapels, simply but taste¬ 
 fully decorated. The lofty cast iron columns built into the walls for 
 the support of the vaulting are adorned with statues between the 
 windows. 
 
 Adjoining St. Augustin, to the S. E., is the Caserne de la Pe- 
 pini'ere , immediately beyond which we turn to the 1. into the street 
 of that name. The prolongation of that street is formed by the Rue 
 St. Lazare , at the beginning of which is the Place du Havre with 
 the Gare St. Lazare, or station for the railway on the right bank 
 (p. 235). Farther on, to thel., facing the Rue de la Chaussde 
 d’Antin, so that it is visible from the Boulevards, is the church of — 
 
 *La Trinite , another modern edifice in the latest Renaissance 
 style, completed by Balia in 1866, 99 yds. in length, and 33 yds. 
 in width. In front of it lies a small square embellished with a 
 fountain. The facade consists of a spacious porch, approached by 
 two carriage drives of gradual ascent, above which rises an elegant 
 storey with a rose of open work, surmounted by a handsome clock- 
 tower 200 ft. in height. This is one of the most pleasing modern 
 churches in Paris. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt. Near 
 the entrance to the church are elegant ‘be'nitiers’ for holy water 
 surmounted with statues of Innocence and Purity. The aisles of 
 the church are narrow, resembling cloisters, and are separated from 
 the nave by handsome columns of stone from the Jura Mts., alter- 
 
lft. ST. VINCENT DE PAUL. 
 
 151 
 
 nating with pillars. The gallery which they form projects into the 
 choir, where the high altar is approached by eleven steps. Above 
 the altar is a canopy resembling an open niche. The apse is occu¬ 
 pied by a large chapel, richly decorated, with paintings by Levy 
 and Delaunay. The nave is adorned with paintings by Jobe, Duval, 
 and Barrias. 
 
 The Hue St. L.azare, a little farther to the E., passes at the back 
 of the church of — 
 
 *Notre Dame de Lorette, situated at the end of the Rue Laf- 
 litte, which leads to the Boulevard dcs Italiens. It was erected in 
 1823—37 in the style of an early Christian Basilica, 74 yds. in 
 length, and 35 yds. in width. The exterior is plain and unattrac¬ 
 tive. The Corinthian portico, however, is adorned with a group in 
 Die tympanum of the Child Jesus adored by angels by Nanteuil 
 (d. 1805), and statues of the three theological virtues by Foyatier, 
 l.aitie, and Lemaire. 
 
 The interior, with its gaudy decorations, resembles a ball or con¬ 
 cert-room rather than a church. The aisles are separated from the 
 nave by thirty-tw o staring columns of yellow stucco, and the ceiling 
 is divided into huge coffers lavishly gilded and painted. Some of 
 the frescoes which cover the walls are by eminent artists. At the 
 ends of the aisles are the Baptistery, and the chapels of the Eucha¬ 
 rist, marriages, and burials, with frescoes by Blvndel and Perm. 
 Those in the nave, by various artists, represent scenes from the 
 history of the Virgin; and the series is completed by three paint¬ 
 ings in the choir and apse: on the r. the Presentation in the 
 Temple, by Heim ; on the 1. Jesus teaching in the Temple, by 
 Drollinij; in the centre the Coronation of the Virgin by Picot. 
 The two angels in an attitude of adoration, over the high altar, are 
 by Nanteuil. 
 
 The service here is conducted with great pomp, and the singing 
 and music are good. 
 
 This quarter of the city is inhabited by numerous artists, 
 actors, and actresses, and by grisettes, who are termed 'Lorettes' 
 from the neighbouring church. 
 
 Returning to the Rue St. Lazare, we proceed in the same direc- 
 lion as before by the Rues Lamartine and Montholon as faT as 
 the broad Rue Lafayette, where it passes the Square Montholon, 
 and turning slightly to the 1. ascend to the Place Lafayette. In 
 this square near the Care du Nord, and opposite the Rue d llautc- 
 ville, which leads to the Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, rises the 
 church of — 
 
 *St. Vincent de Paul, erected in 1824 — 44, by Lepere and Hit- 
 torf, also in the Basilica style, but a more successful example than 
 Notre Dame de Lorette. Length 89 yds., width 39 yds. 
 
 The church is approached by two handsome carriage-drives, and 
 by a broad flight of steps, 38 ft. in width. Above this spacious 
 
15*2 
 
 15. ST. VINCENT DE PAUL. 
 
 amphitheatre rises a projecting peristyle, consisting of twelve fluted 
 Ionic columns, and bearing a pediment with a relief by Lemuire, 
 representing St. Vincent de Paul with a cross in his hand, between 
 Faith and Charity. The two somewhat feeble towers, 138 ft. in 
 height, which flank the facade are connected by means of a balus¬ 
 trade adorned with statues of the Four Evangelists. The door under 
 the peristyle is embellished with sculptures by Farochon, represent¬ 
 ing Christ and the Twelve Apostles. 
 
 The church consists of a nave flanked with double aisles, part 
 of which is occupied by chapels, and the rest by a gallery sur¬ 
 mounted by ‘tribunes’. The roof is supported by 82 Ionic columns 
 of imitation porphyry, 46 of them being in the lower part of the 
 nave, 22 above it., adjoining the tribunes, and 14 round the choir. 
 The open roof is painted, the white ground being relieved with blue 
 and gold. The whole church is lighted from above. The windows 
 of the aisles are filled with well-executed stained glass by Marechai 
 and Grignon. The handsome railings and the ceiling in carved 
 wood are also worthy of notice. 
 
 The wall between the lower and upper columns of the nave is 
 adorned with a frieze painted by Hippolyte Flandrin (d. 1864), re¬ 
 presenting a procession of saints, apostles, prophets, martyrs, and 
 popes. In the dome of the choir is another fresco on a gold ground, 
 by Picot, representing' St. Vincent de Paul kneeling before Christ 
 on His throne, and presenting children to Him. The high altar is 
 adorned with a handsome Crucifixion in bronze, by Rude (d. 1855). 
 The choir is lined with lofty wainscoting, adorned with figures in 
 relief of the patron saints of the princes of the Orleans family, 
 against which are placed the carved stalls. The chapel of the 
 Virgin at the back of the choir contains a fine group of the Virgin, 
 holding above her head the Infant Jesus , who blesses the world, a 
 work by Carrier-Belleuse, for which the chief ‘medaille d’honneur' 
 was awarded at the Exposition of 1867. 
 
 A little beyond the church of St. Vincent de Paul the Rue La¬ 
 fayette crosses the Boulevard de Magenta. To the N. of their intersec¬ 
 tion runs the short Avenue Denain to the extensive facade of 
 the — 
 
 Gare du Nord, which most travellers have an opportunity of 
 seeing on their arrival. This handsome railway-station, constructed 
 in 1863—64 by Hittorf, covers an area of more than seven acres. 
 The principal partofthe facade, with its large window, is surmount¬ 
 ed by a pediment crowned with a statue of Paris in the centre and 
 those of eight important cities connected with Paris by the Ligne du 
 Nord. Behind this facade is the great hall, 77 yds. in width, ad¬ 
 joining which are nine different platforms. On the right, the side 
 of arrival, in front, are post and telegraph offices. On the left, the 
 side of departure, are the spacious waiting-rooms. Hotels, restau¬ 
 rants, etc., see p. 2. 
 
15. ST. LAURENT. 
 
 153 
 
 In a line with the facade of the station, towards the E., a short 
 portion of the Rue de Dunkerque leads to the Rue du Faubourg 
 St. Denis, the first cross street, in which, a little to the N., is sit¬ 
 uated the Maison Municipale de Sante (p. 41). To the W. of 
 the station, the same Rue de Dunkerque soon intersects the Rue de 
 St. Vincent de Paul, at the N. end of which rises the HopituL Luri- 
 loisiere , erected by a lady of that name in 184-G- — 53. The public 
 are admitted on Sundays and Thursdays. The chapel contains the 
 tomb of the foundress, by Murochetti. 
 
 Those who have leisure may now proceed to visit the church of 
 St. Bernard in the La Ghapelle suburb. The Rue Guy Patin, on 
 the VV. side of the hospital, leads to the N. to the Boulevard de la 
 Ghapelle. Grossing this, and following the Rue de la Gharbonniere 
 to the r., we soon observe on the 1. the church of — 
 
 *St. Bernard, a handsome edifice by Magne, erected in 1858 — 
 01, in the Gothic style of the 14th century. The porch with its 
 three archways is surmounted by an open pediment with a balustrade 
 connecting it with the gables of the lateral portals. The great gable 
 is pierced with a large window, flanked by two octagonal turrets, 
 and surmounted by a spire of iron and wood 196 ft. in height. 
 The frescoes, four oil- paintings, pulpit, ‘chemin de croix’, and 
 stained glass in the interior may be inspected. 
 
 Leaving theGare du Nordby the Avenue Denain, descending the 
 Boulevard de Magenta, and turning to the 1. into the Rue de Stras¬ 
 bourg, we soon reach the — 
 
 Gare de l’Est, the handsomest railway-station in Paris, forming 
 the N. termination of the Boulevard de Strasbourg. It was designed 
 by the architect Duquesnay (d. 1849). The facade is surmounted 
 by a sitting statue of the city of Strasbourg. The pavilions pro¬ 
 jecting on each side are connected by a colonnade, on the balu¬ 
 strade of which is a clock-dial with half recumbent statues of the 
 Seine and the Rhine. Hotels, etc., see p. 2. 
 
 In the Boulevard de Strasbourg, a short way from the station, 
 on the L, rises the church of — 
 
 St. Laurent, an edifice which dates from 593, but was restored 
 in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries, and finally remodelled in 
 1865—66, when two bays were added to the nave and a handsome 
 Gothic facade surmounted by a spire was constructed towards the 
 boulevard. Among the paintings may be mentioned a Martyrdom 
 of St. Laurent by Greuze , in the S. transept, and on the opposite 
 side a St. Laurent among the poor by Trezel. The chapel of Notre 
 Dame des Malades in the apse contains numerous votive offerings. 
 
 In the Rue du Faubourg St. Denis at its intersection with the 
 Boulevard de Magenta, not far from St. Laurent, is the Prison of 
 St. Lazare, for women. 
 
 From this point we may now return to the centre of the city. 
 
154 
 
 16. PiSRE LACHAISE. 
 
 either by the Boulevard de Strasbourg, leading to the Boulevard 
 St. Denis, or by the Boulevard de Magenta, leading to the Chateau 
 d’Eau (p. 63). 
 
 16. Cemetery of Pere Lachaise. 
 
 There are fifteen cemeteries in Paris and the suburbs enclos¬ 
 ed by the fortifications, but of these there are three only which 
 will interest the traveller: that of Pere Lachaise on the E. side 
 of the city, that of Montmartre to the N., and that of Mont Par- 
 nasse (p. 228) to the S. These three cemeteries in particular are 
 densely crowded on All Souls’ Day, 2nd November. 
 
 Burials are of three kinds. The poor who are buried gratui¬ 
 tously, forming two-thirds of the community, are committed to the 
 Fosses Communes , or large pits containing 40—50 coffins. Then 
 there are the Fosses Temporaires and the Sepultures a Perpetuite, 
 The cemeteries of Pere Lachaise and Montparnasse are now avail¬ 
 able for burials of the last class only. The concession temporaire, 
 or permission to preserve a grave undisturbed for 5 years only, 
 must be purchased of the municipality for the sum of 50 fr. A 
 concession ii perpetuite , or private burial place, may be secured 
 for 500 fr., or half that sum for a child under 7 years of age. 
 These spaces are very limited, being about 20 sq. ft. only. The 
 charge for a larger space is augmented in an increasing ratio, 
 the price of each square metre (about 10 sq. ft.) beyond six being 
 1000 fr. One fourth of the purchase money must be paid in 
 advance, the remainder within ten years, and in default of 
 payment before the expiry of that period, the municipality resumes 
 possession of the burial-place. 
 
 All burials within the precincts of the Department of the 
 Seine are undertaken by the Compagnie des Pompes Funebres, 
 the charges being regulated by tariff, and varying from 18 fr. 
 75 c. to 7148 fr. The fee of the officiating clergyman is not 
 included in these charges. Two chaplains, who receive a sti¬ 
 pend of 1500 fr. each, are attached to each cemetery for the 
 gratuitous performance of the burial-service for the poor. 
 
 The most celebrated and extensive of these cemeteries is 
 P'tre Lachaise, named after Lachaise, the Jesuit confessor of 
 Louis X1Y. , who possessed a country residence named Mont 
 Louis on the site of the present chapel. The property subse¬ 
 quently belonged to his powerful order, but after the expulsion 
 of the Jesuits from France in 1763 it passed through various hands, 
 until it was at length purchased by the city in 1804 and laid out 
 as a cemetery. Since that period the precincts of the burial- 
 ground have been greatly extended, and it now covers an area 
 of 107 acres. 
 
ll 
 
"Winner &Debes Leipzig 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
16. PfcRE LACHAISE- 
 
 155 
 
 On 30th March, 1814, the cemetery was the scene of a sharply 
 contested action between Russian and French troops, in which the 
 former were victorious. 
 
 On 20th May, 1871, the day before the Versailles troops 
 effected their entrance into Paris , several hundred of the Com¬ 
 munist insurgents took up their position in the cemetery, and 
 planted several cannon near the tomb of the Due de Morny and 
 the conspicuous Beaujour monument (see below) , using the 
 latter as their guard-house. A few days later the batteries of 
 Montmartre opened their fire upon the cemetery, destroying seven 
 or eight monuments, and injuring others. On the 27th the de¬ 
 fenders of the cemetery, as well as those insurgents who on being 
 driven back from the barricades of the Chateau d’Eau and the 
 Place de la Bastille had sought refuge here , were compelled to 
 abandon it, many, however, being captured and shot. Near the 
 wall of Charonne, which bears numerous marks of bullets, 147 
 national guards, w ho had been taken prisoners at the barri¬ 
 cades, were shot a few days later. These and numerous other 
 victims of the last Revolution were buried here in May and 
 June, 1871. 
 
 This cemetery is the burial - place of the inhabitants of the 
 N.E. portion of Paris, that is, the quarters of the city on the r. 
 bank of the Seine to the E. of the Porte St. Denis; but persons 
 of distinction from other parts of the city also are generally in¬ 
 terred in Pcre Lachaise. 
 
 The cemetery is situated on an eminence, which commands a 
 fine view, to the N.E. of Paris, ^ M. from the Place de la 
 Bastille. The cemetery may be reached by cab , by omnibus 
 (see p. 23), or by the Chemin de Per de Ceinture, the station 
 for P?re Lachaise being Charonne (p. 234). The direct route from 
 the boulevards to Pere Lachaise is by the Boulevard Voltaire, or 
 du Prince Eugene, which begins at the Chateau d’Eau (p. 63), 
 and then by the Rue de la Roquette, which diverges to the 1. from 
 the Place Voltaire. 
 
 As the cemetery is approached, indications of its proximity are 
 observed in the shops for the sale of articles of mourning, and in 
 the numerous workshops of stone and marble-cutters containing 
 monuments of every kind, while vendors of flowers and ‘immor¬ 
 telles’ for the decoration of the tombs are encountered at every 
 step. Near the E. end of the street rise two massive, castellated 
 edifices. That on to the r. is the — 
 
 Prison de la Roquette, in which condemned convicts await 
 their execution or conveyance to the galleys. On the 1. is the Prison 
 des Jeunes Detenus. Between these two prisons is the public 
 place of execution. 
 
 The Prison de la Roquette was the scene of one of the most 
 
156 
 
 16 . p£re lachaise. 
 
 infamous crimes of which the Communists of 1871 were guilty. 
 On the evening of 24th May, Ferre, the ‘de'lcgud a la surete’, 
 and soi-disant prefect of police, who had on that morning set 
 tire to the Prefecture (p. 182), presented himself at the prison and 
 announced the intention of the Commune to shoot six of its 
 hostages, in retaliation, as was alleged, for the death of six Com¬ 
 munists killed by the troops. The victims selected were Msgr. 
 Darhoy, the venerable Archbishop of Paris, the President Bon- 
 jean, the Abbe Allard, the Pere Ducoudray, superior of the 
 Ecole St. Genevieve, the Pere Clerc, and the Abbe' Deguerry, 
 curd of the Madeleine. These entirely innocent and unoffending 
 persons were subjected to gross insult by the national guards, 
 and conducted to the court in front of the infirmary of the 
 prison, where they were immediately shot. Their bodies were 
 then thrown into the ‘fosse commune’ at Pere Lachaise, from 
 which however they were afterwards removed. 
 
 Several other tragedies of a similar character were also 
 enacted here during the Communist reign of terror. On 
 26th and 27 th May thirty-seven persons imprisoned here by 
 the Commune under various pretexts, were also shot, and on 
 the night of the 26th twenty-eight gendarmes were conveyed from 
 the Roquette to Pere Lachaise where they shared the same fate. 
 On the afternoon of the 27th the miscreant Ferre set at liberty 
 all the convicts incarcerated in the Roquette and awaiting their 
 transference to the galleys. Arms were placed in their hands, 
 and they at once proceeded to massacre as many of the persons 
 imprisoned by the Commune as came within their reach, among 
 others seventy gendarmes. The approach of the troops, who were 
 now masters of the entire city, fortunately soon compelled the 
 murderers to retreat. Had the contest been protracted a single 
 day longer, all the surviving hostages of the Commune would in¬ 
 fallibly have fallen victims to the same fiendish spirit of revenge. 
 
 **Pere Lachaise. The gate of the cemetery bears the in¬ 
 scription : Scin quod redemptor mens vivit et in novissimo die de 
 terra resurrecturus sum. — Spes illorum immortalitute plena est. 
 — Qui aredit in me, etiam si mortuus fuerit , vivet. In 
 summer the cemetery is open from 6 a. m. till 7 p. m. , in 
 spring, autumn, and winter from about sunrise to sunset. Half- 
 an-hour before the closing of the gates a bell is rung, and the 
 custodians call out, ‘On ferme les portes ’, allowing ample time 
 for visitors to reach the gates. It may be observed here that it 
 is the universal custom for persons to take off their hats on 
 meeting a funeral procession. Conducteurs will be found at the 
 small building to the r. on entering, but their services may well 
 be dispensed with, unless the visitor is pressed for time (fee 
 2—3 fr.). 
 
 Even a superficial survey of the most interesting rnonu- 
 
16. PfiRE LACHAISE. 
 
 157 
 
 ments in the cemetery will occupy about 3 hours. At every stop 
 the visitor will observe names of European celebrity. The num¬ 
 ber of monuments, from the magnificent mausoleum and obelisk 
 down to the simple marble cross, amounts to upwards of 18,000. 
 It has been computed that, since the cemetery was first opened in 
 1804 . a sum of 200 million francs has been expended in the 
 erection of these tributes to the departed. 
 
 The walks are. well shaded with trees, and the cemetery owing 
 to its commanding situation affords an admirable view of the in¬ 
 terminable labyrinth of the city. The annexed plan will prove 
 a useful companion. The finest monuments are indicated by 
 asterisks; r. and 1. signify to the right and left of the path. 
 Our most convenient route is indicated in the plan by means of 
 arrows. 
 
 The first monument of importance, perhaps the most interest¬ 
 ing in the cemetery, situated a little to the r. of the main path, 
 is that of ** Abelard (d. 1142) and Heldise (d. 1164). Abelard, 
 according to the well known story, was a learned theologian, who 
 having married his pupil Helo'ise, was afterwards separated 
 from her by jealous relations and cruelly mutilated. The monu¬ 
 ment consists of a Gothic canopy formed out of the ruins of the 
 abbey of Paraclete, near Nogent-sur-Saone, of which Abelard was 
 the founder. Beneath the canopy is the sarcophagus, with the 
 figures of the ill-fated pair, which Abe'lard himself caused to be 
 constructed before his death. The sarcophagus was long preserved 
 in the Musde des Petits Augustins (p. 214), but was transferred to 
 its present position in 1817. The tomb is often decorated with 
 wreaths of fresh flowers, the offerings of those who regard this 
 as the shrine of disappointed love. 
 
 Wer now return to the main path. 
 
 *1. Robertson (d. 1837), professor of ‘physics, phantasma¬ 
 goria, and aerostatics’ as the reliefs indicate. 
 
 Turning to the r. into the side path, and then ascending to 
 the 1. : r. Marshal Maison (d. 1840). 
 
 r. ‘Sepulture de la famille de Plaisance’ , with a portrait in 
 relief of Lebrun, Duke of Piacenza (d. 1824), who held the office of 
 3rd consul during the consulate, and under the empire became 
 governor of Holland and Genoa; he was also the translator of 
 Tasso and Homer, as the genii indicate, 
 
 Opposite is a lofty monument: ‘Aux victimes de Jain la ville 
 de Paris reconnaissante. Liberte , Ordre public'. Below this 
 inscription are the names of those who fell in June, 1848. 
 
 1. Marshal I^auriston (d. 1828), who escorted the young em¬ 
 press Marie Louise to Paris in 1810. 
 
 In the side-path to the 8. of Perier’s monument: I. Mar¬ 
 shal Victor Perrin, Due de Bellune (d. 1841), who was taken 
 
158 16. PfiRE LACHAIS.E. 
 
 prisoner by the Germans in 1807, and afterwards exchanged 
 for Bliicher. 
 
 r. General Domon , with the names of the battles at which 
 he was present. — Behind it: ‘ Victimes des trois journees de 
 Fevrier 1848.' 
 
 r. Count Labedoybre , colonel of the regiment at Grenoble 
 which was the first to go over to Napoleon on his return from 
 Elba (1st March , 1815); afterwards condemned to death, and shot 
 at the same time as Ney (19th Aug.). The ill-fated man was 
 on the point of sailing for America, when he incautiously returned to 
 Paris to take leave of his young wife and child, and was there 
 arrested. The sculptures refer to this affecting incident. 
 
 We now return to the Rond Point, in the centre of which rises 
 the handsome monument of Casimir Perier (d. 1832), a statue in 
 bronze on a lofty pedestal. lie was originally a banker, and 
 became an active promoter of the July Monarchy, and afterwards 
 prime minister of Louis Philippe. 
 
 On the W. side of the Rond Point: 1. Count Malet (d. 1843), 
 a cavalry officer, who subsequently became a priest. 
 
 1 . Monge (d. 1820), the eminent mathematician and founder 
 of the polytechnic school, who when a member of the Conven¬ 
 tion in 1793 voted for the execution of Louis XVI., and in 1807 
 was created Comte de Pe'luse. 
 
 *1. Famille Raspail. This is the tomb of the wife of Raspail, 
 the distinguished chemist and zealous republican, a member of 
 the Montagnard party, who received 40,000 votes when a can¬ 
 didate for the Presidency in December, 1848. He was afterwards 
 arrested and condemned by the court at Bourges to six years’ 
 imprisonment, for having been one of the instigators of the con¬ 
 spiracy of May to dissolve the National Assembly. His wife 
 died before the expiry of his sentence, as the monument in¬ 
 dicates. 
 
 In the principal path: 1. ChampoLlion (d. 1836), the celebrated 
 archaeologist, and the first decipherer of hieroglyphics. 
 
 r. Clarke (d. 1818), Due de Feltre and marshal of France. 
 
 1. Kellermann (d. 1820), Due de Valmy, marshal of France. 
 
 1 . Laffilte (d. 1840), the well known banker, promoter of the 
 July Monarchy, minister of Louis Philippe, but afterwards the 
 political opponent of the same cabinet. 
 
 1. Famille Dosne-Thiers, the burial-place of M. Thiers. 
 
 1. A. Duchesnois (d. 1835), the actress, represented in 
 relief. 
 
 r. Maret, Due de Bassano (d. 1839), a temple with Doric co¬ 
 lumns, without inscription. — Adjacent is the burial-ground of 
 the family of Talleyrand, the diplomatist. 
 
 1. Abbe Siey'es (d. 1836), member of the Convention in 1793, 
 and afterwards one of the three consuls. 
 
16. PfcRE LACHAISE. 
 
 159 
 
 *1. Oouvion Saint Cyr (d. 1830), marshal, commander of the 
 Bavarian division in the Russian campaign , afterwards minister 
 of war; statue by David. 
 
 1. Macdonald (d. 1840), Due de Tarente, marshal. 
 
 *On the higher ground, to the 1., General Gobert, a large eques¬ 
 trian group in marble by David; a Spaniard endeavours in vain to 
 prevent the invasion of the French by seizing the reins of the 
 general’s horse , an allegorical allusion to the Spanish war; on 
 the pedestal reliefs relating to the wars in Egypt, Italy, and Mar¬ 
 tinique, and the battle of Famars (1793), at which the general 
 was present. This magnificent monument was erected in 1847 
 under the direction of the Academy, to which a considerable sum 
 was bequeathed by the general’s son for that purpose and for the 
 promotion of national art. 
 
 r. Count Lavalette (d. 1830), general, and director of the 
 post-office, who was condemned to death on the return of the 
 Bourbons in 1815 , but effected his escape from prison with the 
 aid of his wife, with whom he exchanged clothes. 
 
 Opposite, r. : Caron de Beaumarchais (d. 1797), author of the 
 ‘Barber of Seville’, ‘Marriage of Figaro’, etc. 
 
 Higher up, 1.: Larrey (d. 1842), physician general to the 
 French army, styled by Napoleon 1. ‘the most virtuous man 
 he knew'. 
 
 Lower down, 1.: Dupuytren (d. 1835), the eminent surgeon. 
 
 In the side-path, 1.: General Belliard { d. 1832), ambassador in 
 Belgium. 
 
 r. Bruix (1805), admiral and minister of marine. — Opposite, 
 to the 1.: Savary, Due de Itovigo (d. 1833), a warm adherent of 
 Napoleon I., in 1831 governor of Algiers. — Farther on: General 
 Pujol (d. 1844), who led the attack on the Tuileries in July, 
 1830, ami was ennobled in 1833. 
 
 To the r. , on the side-path, not far from Bruix, Kiyny. 
 (d. 1835), the conqueror at Navarino (1827), admiral and minister 
 of marine. 
 
 Behind it: Sepulture Schickler. From this point, a little to 
 one side of the entrance, we enjoy a fine *view towards the E., 
 in the direction of Vincennes. 
 
 In the principal path : r. Couteaux , captain of engineers, who 
 fell at the siege of the citadel of Antwerp in 1832, a grotesque 
 monument in the form of a tent. 
 
 r. Eugene Scribe (d. 1861), the well known dramatist, with 
 masks in allusion to his profession. 
 
 I. Vicomte de Martignac (d. 1835), minister of the interior, 
 celebrated for his noble defence of his political opponent, Prince 
 Poliguac, in the chamber of peers after the revolution of July. 
 
 ’"Adjacent to the latter, in the side-path: 1. Marshal Suchet , 
 
I 60 16. PilRE LACHAISE. 
 
 Due d'Albufdra (d. 1826), in marble, with his bust, and allegorical 
 reliefs. 
 
 *r. Duchesse de Raguse (d. 1857), a chapel with sarcophagus. 
 
 *r. Comte Pactliod (d. 1830), general, an obelisk with armorial 
 bearings and military emblems. 
 
 r. Near the wall: Volney (d. 1820), the philosopher. 
 
 1. Parmentier (d. 1813), the chemist, and introducer of the 
 potato culture into France, with decorations on the monument, 
 and potatoes planted around it, in reminiscence of his services. 
 
 r. Admiral Sir Sidney Smith (d. 1840), who defeated Napoleon 
 at St. Jean d’Acre. 
 
 1. General Gourgaud (d. 1850), the companion of Napoleon 
 in St. Helena, and editor of his writings. 
 
 r. Nearer the wall: Don Manuel Godoy (d. 1851), better known 
 as ‘the Prince of Peace’, with a handsome medallion. 
 
 *r. Marquis Agitudo (d. 1842), the great financier; a lofty 
 sarcophagus with two admirable statues emblematic of Benevolence 
 and the Fine Arts. 
 
 1. General Rogniat (d. 1840), inspector of engineers, and an 
 eminent military writer. 
 
 1. Marquis d' Argenteuil (d. 1838), founder of several charitable 
 institutions. 
 
 r. Famille Ledru-Rollin. 
 
 In the square, of which the S.E. angle is formed by the 
 monument of General Rogniat, are situated two well-executed 
 monuments of an entirely different character from the above : 
 those of Marc Schcelcher (d. 1832), ‘marohand de porcelaine’, 
 at the S.W. angle, and on the other side of the square his 
 wife (d. 1839), parents of a well-known republican and deputy 
 of the Assembled Nationale of 1848. 
 
 At the end of the main path: r. Vice-Admiral Lalande 
 (d. 1849); 1. Jarotot (d. 1840), founder of an almost forgotten 
 system of education, a sarcophagus with quotations from his 
 writings. 
 
 Then, on the path descending to thel., the tombs of several 
 poets and savants: 
 
 1. Col. Rory de St. Vincent (d. 1846), an eminent antiquarian, 
 member of the expedition to the Morea in 1829; 1. Nodier 
 (d. 1844); r. Emile Souvestre (d. 1854); r. Bazin (d. 1850); r. 
 Balzac (d. 1850); 1. *Casimir Delavigne (d. 1843), an obelisk 
 with the Muse of Poetry. 
 
 Opposite, in the angles of the three plots — 
 
 Sepulture de la famille du Due de Morny (d. 1864), half- 
 brother of Napoleon 111., a cumbrous monument with the arms 
 of the family. It was here that the insurgents took up their 
 position in 1871. 
 
 Jean Baptiste Delpecli, an eminent engineer. 
 
16. PJ5RE LAC RAISE. 
 
 161 
 
 Wo again turn to the 1., and regain tlic main path, 
 r. Helene Andrianoff , a Russian dancer, witli recumbent figure. 
 1. Eugene Delacroix , the artist (d. 1865). 
 
 *The termination of the main path is appropriately formed by 
 a handsome mausoleum, erected by Marie Emilie Knusli, Duchesse 
 de Duras, to her parents and children. 
 
 *Beyond the last, in the N.W. angle of the cemetery, is the 
 grotesque monument of F. de Beau jour (A. 1836), a pyramid 105 ft. 
 in height, erected by himself before his death, at a cost of 
 100,000 fr. — There is a remarkably fine view of Paris from this 
 point, but it is unfortunately somewhat obstructed by the trees and 
 the monuments. The most prominent objects are the lofty dome 
 of the Pantheon, the massive Notre Dame, the dome of the 
 Invalides, and the Arc de l’Etoile. To the r. are the plaster 
 quarries of Montmartre. 
 
 [On the E. slope of the cemetery is situated the Mussulman 
 Burial-ground, where the queen of Oude (d. 1857) and her son 
 (d. 1858) are interred. The public are not admitted. To the 1. 
 the church-spire of Belleville is visible; to the r. that of Charonne.] 
 Returning to the monument of Gen. Gourgaud, and diverging 
 to the right, we observe on the 1.: *Marshal Perignon(A. 1818), 
 and his son-in-law; and *Count Valence (d. 1822). 
 
 ' r. A little back from the path, Madame de Oenlis (d. 1831), 
 the celebrated authoress, and instructress of Louis Philippe. 
 
 *1. Gemond, brazier to Napoleon I., pyramid with a star in 
 copper, erected to his wife and children (1843). 
 
 r. Gros (d. 1835), an eminent painter, surmounted with a bust. 
 1 . Marquis Laplace (d. 1827), the celebrated astronomer. — 
 Adjacent, Manuel Garcia (d. 1832), professor of singing, and father 
 of the singers Malibran and Viardot. — Behind these is — 
 
 *1. General Aboville (d. 1817), a handsome mausoleum flanked 
 by two 24-pounders. 
 
 r. Gay-Lussac (d. 1850), the celebrated chemist, 
 r. Clementine Tansku-Hoffmann (d. 1845), a Polish authoress. 
 I. Lafontaine (A. 1685), and Molihre (d. 1673), two sarcophagi 
 brought here in 1817. 
 
 *1. Boode , a Dutch merchant; a mausoleum in the Egyptian 
 style. — Behind it — 
 
 *David d'Angers (d. 1856), the celebrated sculptor. 
 
 *1. Cambaceres (d. 1826), member of the Convention in 1793, 
 afterwards second consul, Duke of Parma in 1808, minister of 
 Justice in 1815. 
 
 *1. Due Decrbs (d. 1821), vice-admiral, and minister of marine; 
 a lofty monument in sandstone, with naval insignia. 
 
 1. Count Bourlce (A. 1821), Danish ambassador. — Adjoining 
 it, Abbe Siccard (d. 1822), teacher of the deaf and dumb, successor 
 ILedekeii. Paris. 4th Edition. If 
 
162 16. PfiRE LACHA1SE. 
 
 to the Abbd de l’Epfie; a stone slab with live hands, in allusion to 
 the alphabet of signs. 
 
 A little nearer the middle of the compartment: Madame Coltin 
 (d. 1807), the authoress. 
 
 Turning to the r., near the monument of DecriSs : 
 
 r. General Vallesteros (d. 1832), or Ballesteros, Spanish com¬ 
 mander in chief. 
 
 *r. Marshal Lefebvre (d. 1820), Due de Dantzick, a monument 
 in marble, with medallion-bust. 
 
 *r. Marshal Massena (d. 1817), Due de Rivoli, and Prince 
 d’Essling, an obelisk with bust in a medallion. 
 
 1. Marshal Serrurier (d. 1819). 
 
 r. Davoust (d. 1822), Due d’Auersfcedt, Prince d’Eckmuhl. 
 
 1. Gohert and Larrey, already mentioned. 
 
 At the angle formed by the bifurcation of the path is a small 
 plot of ground laid out as a garden , and enclosed by a railing, 
 the last resting place of the unfortunate Marshal Ney, Due d’El- 
 chingen and Prince de la Moscowa. No monument or inscription 
 marks the grave of ‘le brave des braves’. 
 
 r. Princess Bibezco of Wallachia, a vault, with a dome. 
 
 r. Lameth. Three Doric columns to three brothers of that name: 
 Alexander (d. 1829), president of the first Assemble Nationale 
 (1789), and prefect of the Department of the Rhine and Moselle at 
 Coblentz in 1805; Charles (d. 1832), and Theodore-Victor. 
 
 r. Manuel (d. 1827), the orator, who was expelled from the 
 Chamber of Deputies in 1823, a lofty, rounded obelisk, with his 
 medallion and that of Beranger. The remains of Beranger (d. 1857), 
 the most illustrious lyric poet of France, repose within the same 
 enclosure, having been interred by his wish in the tomb of his 
 friend Manuel. — Nearly opposite: Framboise Fr'ere (d. 1857), 
 Beranger’s Lisette. 
 
 *r. General Foy (d. 1825), a man of great ability and un¬ 
 blemished virtue, whose funeral was attended by upwards of 
 50,000 persons; monument by David d’Angers. —About twenty 
 paces farther back is the simple gravestone of — 
 
 Paul Barras (d. 1829), member of the Directory. — Beyond it, 
 the vault of Marshal Mortier, killed in 1835 by Fieschi’s infernal 
 machine (p. 63). — In the vicinity, General Haxo (d. 1838), 
 a great military engineer, commander at the siege of Antwerp 
 in 1832. 
 
 On the opposite side from Foy's monument, to the 1., Benjamin 
 Constant (d. 1830) of Geneva, a scholar and politician, one of the 
 instigators of the July Revolution. 
 
 \. Dulong{&. 1834), adeputy, killed in a duel by Marshal Bugeaud. 
 
 Near this, a little lower down: 1. Caulaincourt, Due de Vicence 
 (d. 1827), diplomatist and minister. Then, Chappe (d. 1829), 
 inventor of the optic telegraph; monument surmounted with an 
 
16. PfiRE LACHAISE. 
 
 163 
 
 iron telegrapli on a heap of rooks. Near it, the dome-covered vault 
 of Marshal Lobau. 
 
 Higher up, near the walk, on the 1., Louis Bcerne (d. 1837), 
 the German poet; bust in bronze by David d’Angers, and a relief 
 representing France and Germany united by Liberty. 
 
 1 . Pozzo di Borgo (d. 1842), born in Corsica, a celebrated 
 Russian diplomatist, and a bitter and successful opponent of Na¬ 
 poleon I. — Opposite — 
 
 *r. Admiral Bruat (d. 1855), commander of the fleet before 
 Sebastopol; a fine monument in marble, with emblems of his 
 naval career. 
 
 In the square compartment: Count Nansouty (d. 1815), com¬ 
 mander of the cavalry in the German wars. 
 
 1. Garnier-Pagis (d. 1841), a deputy and active promoter of 
 the July Revolution, leader of the radical party, with extracts from 
 his speeches. 
 
 1. Geoffroy St. Hilaire (d. 1844), the eminent zoologist. 
 
 *1. Countess Demido/f (d. 1818), the most imposing monu¬ 
 ment in the cemetery, consisting of ten Doric columns of marble 
 supporting an entablature, beneath which is a sarcophagus, resting 
 on a basement of massive masonry. Prince Demidoff, who died 
 in 1870, is also interred here. 
 
 r. Famille Racine, descendants of the great dramatist. 
 
 r. Gaudin, Due de Gaete (d. 1841), minister of finance under 
 the Empire, a sarcophagus on a lofty pedestal. 
 
 r. Etienne, dramatic author, editor of the Constitutionnel, pro¬ 
 moter of the July Revolution, subsequently Pair de France. 
 
 A little higher, in the side-path: Princesse de Salrn-Dyck 
 (d. 1845), the poetess; a lofty sarcophagus of black porphyry. 
 
 In the principal path: r. Pradier (d. 1852), the eminent 
 sculptor; a sarcophagus, with bust, erected by his pupils. 
 
 Descending a little to the 1. of the monument of Etienne, we 
 observe to the r., Louis Perree (d. 1851), member of the Assemblee 
 and editor of the Siecle, about twenty paces from the avenue. Far¬ 
 ther forward, Desaugiers (d. 1827), the lyric poet. 
 
 1. Mme Milcent (d. 1824) ‘qui a porte' dans son sein un enfant 
 12 mois vivant et 7 ans rnort’. 
 
 We now descend to the burial-place of numerous artists and 
 scientific men. 
 
 r. Talma i d. 1826), the celebrated actor; Brongniart (d. 1847), 
 the mineralogist; Delille (d. 1813), the poet. Farther forward, 
 Luharpe (d. 1803), author and critic. Adjacent, LeSueur (d. 1837), 
 the composer. Behind Delille, *Bellini (d. 1835), the composer of 
 ‘Norma’, ‘1 Puritani’, etc.; monument injured by exposure to the 
 atmosphere and covered with names of visitors. Gretry (d. 1813), 
 and Bo'ieldieu (d. 1834) , also composers of celebrated operas ; 
 
 11* 
 
164 
 
 16. PE RE LACHAISE. 
 
 Bernardin de St. Pierre (d. 1814), author of Paul and Virginia; 
 Vandael (d. 1840), flower-painter, with appropriate lines. 
 
 Lower down, on the margin of the avenue: *Cherubini(A. 1842), 
 the eminent composer, who was director of the Conservatoire for 
 20 years. Near it, *Chopin (d. 1849) , the pianist and composer. 
 Behind it, Wilhelm (d. 1842), founder of schools of singing in 
 France. 
 
 *Denon (d. 1825), on the opposite side of the path, who 
 accompanied Bonaparte to Egypt, general director of museums. 
 
 A little higher , in the following plot, opposite Pe'rier’s monu¬ 
 ment : Herold (d. 1833), composer of ‘Zampa’. 
 
 Mme Blanchard (d. 1819), a famous aeronaut, who lost her life 
 in endeavouring to ignite fireworks in a balloon, with a representation 
 of the disaster. 
 
 Paer (d. 1839), Pleyel (d. 1831), and J/e7mI(d. 1818), composers. 
 
 The Chapel , which occupies the site of the residence of P&re 
 Lachaise, is situated to the N. of the Bond Point. Fine view 
 from the open grass-plot twenty paces beyond it. In the con¬ 
 tiguous compartment: Count Des'eze (d. 1828), one of the defenders 
 of Louis XVI. before the Convention in 1793 ; *Cartellier (d. 1831), 
 the sculptor, with fine reliefs. 
 
 Near the first flight of steps in descending the broad path: 
 r. Louis David (d. 1825), the celebrated painter (p. 109). 
 General Neigre (d. 1847), commander of the artillery at the siege 
 of Antwerp in 1831. 
 
 Farther down : r. Marshal Grouchy (d. 1847), a veteran of Hohen- 
 linden and Waterloo. Opposite: Count Rcederer (d. 1835), minister 
 of Naples under Murat in 1807, and a promoter of the July 
 Revolution. 
 
 We now re-approach the entrance-gate, and terminate our 
 walk at the newest section of the cemetery, r. Beclard, ‘Ministre 
 de France au Marocco’, with mourning female figure. Adjacent, 
 r. Alfred de Musset (d. 1857), the poet, with a weeping willow : — 
 l Mes chers amis quand je mourrai 
 Plantez un saule au cimetiere; 
 
 J’aime son feuillage eplore, 
 
 La paleur men est douce et ch'ere. 
 
 Et son ombre sera legere , 
 
 A la terre oh je dormirai.' 
 
 A little farther, also on the r. Gioacchino Rossini (d. 1868), 
 the celebrated composer. Adjacent, Achille Fould (d. 1869), 
 minister of finance. 
 
 r. Famille Dantan , the sculptors. Opposite, on the L, Famille 
 Baroche , minister under the second Empire. 
 
 r. Visconti (d. 1818), the philologist, and his son, the eminent 
 architect of the New Louvre. Opposite them, on the other side 
 of the grass-plot: 1. Perdonnet (d. 1867), builder of the old 
 
15. PfcRE LACHAISE. 
 
 165 
 
 bridge of Kehl, and Arago (d. 1853), the celebrated astronomer 
 and staunch republican. 
 
 The Jewish Burial - Ground (closed on Saturdays) also con¬ 
 tains several handsome monuments, the names on which are 
 mostly German and Portuguese. Mademoiselle Rachel (d. 1858), 
 the celebrated actress, is interred here (r.). On thel., Rothschild 
 and Jacob Robles (d. 1842). The monument of the latter is 
 remarkable for its curious sculptures. — The Jewish cemetery 
 at Montmartre is much more extensive than this. 
 
 The following list will aid the visitor in finding any of the 
 monuments above mentioned which he may desire to inspect. The 
 first numbers refer to the compartments in the plan, those within 
 brackets to the pages of the Handbook. 
 
 ‘Abelard and Heloise, 5 (157). 
 ■'Aboville, General, 25 (161). 
 
 ‘•"Aguado, financier, 23 (160). 
 AndrianoA', dancer, 21 (161). 
 
 Arago, astronomer, 2 (165). 
 Argenteuil, Marquis de, philan¬ 
 thropist, 22 (160). 
 
 Balzac, novelist, 20 (1G0). 
 
 Baroclie, minister, (164). 
 
 Barras, President of the Directory, 
 29 (162). 
 
 Bassano, Duke of, 18 (158). 
 Beaujour, Felix de, 20 (161). 
 Beaumarchais, 29 (159). 
 
 Bdclard, minister, 2 (164). 
 
 Belliard, General, Belgian minister 
 of war, 32 (159). 
 
 ^Bellini, composer, 8 (163). 
 
 Be'ranger, poet, 29 (162). 
 
 Bernardin de St.Pierre, author,8(164). 
 Bibezco, Wallachian princess, 29 
 (162). 
 
 Blanchard, Mme, aeronaut, 9 (164). 
 Boieldieu, composer, 8 (163). 
 ,;, Boode, merchant of Amsterdam, 28 
 (161). 
 
 Bcerne, German poet, 17 (163). 
 
 Bory de St. Vincent, archaeologist, 
 21 (160). 
 
 Bourke, Danish ambassador, 28 
 (61). 
 
 Brongniart, mineralogist, 8 (163). 
 ’Bruat, Admiral, 26 (163). 
 
 Bruix, Admiral, 31 (159). 
 'Cambaceres, member of Convention 
 and second consul, 28 (161). 
 ,:, Cartellier, sculptor, 13 (164). 
 Caulaincourt, minister, 17 (162). 
 Champollion , archaeologist, 15 (158). 
 Chappe,inventor of telegraph,17 (162). 
 ^Cherubini, composer, 8 (164). 
 i;, Chopin, musician, 8 (164). 
 
 Clarke, Marshal, 18 (158). 
 
 Constant, scholar and politician, 30 
 (162). 
 
 Cottin, Madame, authoress, 28 (162). 
 Couteaux , captain of engineers , 32 
 (159). 
 
 Dantan, sculptor, 2 (164). 
 
 David, Louis, painter, president of 
 Convention, 1 (164). 
 
 ■David d’Angers, sculptor, 28 (161). 
 Davoust, Marshal, 29 (162). 
 
 'Deeres, Admiral, 28 (161). 
 
 Delacroix, artist, 21 (161). 
 :: Delavigne, author, 21 (160). 
 
 Delille, poet, S (163). 
 
 Delpech, engineer, 21 (160). 
 *DemidotT, Countess, 17 (163). 
 < 'Denon, archaeologist, 3 (164). 
 Desaugiers, author, 14 (163). 
 *Deseze, defender of Louis XVI., 13 
 (164). 
 
 ’Dias Santos, Ducliessc de Duras, 20 
 (161). 
 
 Domon, General, 12 (158). 
 Duchesnois, actress, 19 (158). 
 Dulong, deputy, 17 (162). 
 Dupuytren, surgeon, 19 (159). 
 Etienne, editor of the Constitution- 
 nel, 26 (163). 
 
 February victims, 12 (158). 
 
 Fould, minister of finance, 2 (164). 
 *Foy, General, 29 (162). 
 
 Gaeta, Duke of. minister of finance, 
 27 (163). 
 
 Garnier-Pages, radical, 17 (163). 
 Gay-Lussac, chemist, 26 (161). 
 Gdmond, Napoleon’s brazier, 25 
 
 (161). 
 
 *Genlis, Mme de, authoress, 24 (161). 
 Geofiroy Saint Hilaire, naturalist, 17 
 (163). 
 
 *Gobert, General, 19 (159). 
 
 Godoy, Spanish prince, 34 (160). 
 Gourgaud, General, 23 (159). 
 *Gouvion Saint. Cyr, Marshal, 19(159). 
 Gr^try, composer, 8 (163). 
 
 Gros, painter, 25 (161). 
 
 Grouchy, Marshal, 1 (164). 
 
166 
 
 16. PiiRE LACHAISE. 
 
 Haxo, Gen. of engineers, 29 (162). 
 ♦Herold, composer, 9 (164). 
 
 Jacotot, professor, 33 (160). 
 
 Jewish Burial Ground (165). 
 
 June victims, 11 (157). 
 
 Kellermann, Marshal, 19 (158). 
 Labedoyere, Colonel, 12 (158). 
 Laffitte, banker, 19 (158). 
 
 Lafontaine, fabulist, 25 (161). 
 Laharpe, author, 8 (163). 
 
 Lalande, admiral, 33 (160). 
 
 Lameth, President of Assembly, 29 
 (162). 
 
 Laplace, astronomer, 25 (130). 
 Larrey, military physician, 19 (159). 
 Lauriston, Marshal, 10 (157). 
 Lavalette, Count, 31 (159). 
 
 Lebrun, third consul, 6 (157). 
 Ledru-Rollin, family of, 33 (160). 
 Lefebvre, Marshal, 29 (162). 
 
 Le Sueur, composer, 8 (163). 
 Lobau, Marshal, 17 (162). 
 Macdonald, Marshal, 19 (159). 
 Maison, Marshal, 6 (157). 
 
 Malet, founder of the order of Ste. 
 
 Marie de Lorette, 15 (158). 
 Manuel, orator, 29 (162). 
 
 Maret, Due de Bassano, 18 (158). 
 Martignac, minister, 28 (159). 
 Massena, Marshal, 29 (162). 
 
 Mehul, composer, 9 (164). 
 
 Moliere, dramatic author, 25 (161). 
 Monge, mathematician, member of 
 Convention, 15 (158). 
 
 Moray, family of the Due de, 21(160). 
 Mortier, Marshal, 29 (162). 
 
 Musset, Alfred de, 2 (164). 
 Mussulman Burial Ground (161). 
 "Nansouty, Gen. of cavalry, 27 (163). 
 Neigre, General, 1 (164). 
 
 Ney, Marshal, 30 (162). 
 
 Oude, Queen of, 20 (161). 
 
 ; Pacthod, General, 34 (160). 
 
 Pajol, General, 32 (159). 
 
 Parmentier, chemist, 29 (160). 
 I'erdonnet., engineer, 2 (164). 
 
 Perier, minister, 16 (1581. 
 
 ‘Perignon, Marshal, 24 (161). 
 
 Perree, member of Assembly, 14 
 (163). 
 
 Perrin, Marshal, 18 (157). 
 
 Plaisance (Piacenza), Duke of, 6 (157). 
 Pleyel, composer, 9 (164). 
 
 Pozzo di Borgo, Russian diplomatist, 
 17 (162). 
 
 Pradier, sculptor, 24 (163). 
 
 Rachel, actress, Jewish Cemetery 
 (165). 
 
 Racine, family, 27 (163). 
 
 Raguse, Duchesse de, 32 (160). 
 Raspail, chemist, 15 (158). 
 
 Rigny, Admiral, 31 (159). 
 ^Robertson, prof, of physics, 4 (157). 
 Robles, Jewish Cemetery (165). 
 Roederer, minister, 2 (164). 
 
 Rogniat., General, 22 (160). 
 
 Rossini, composer^ 2 (164). 
 
 Rovigo, Due de, o2 (159). 
 
 Souvestre, Emile, 20 (160). 
 *Schickler, banker, 31 (159). 
 
 Scribe, dramatist, 32 (159). 
 Serrurier, Marshal, 19 (162). 
 
 Siccard, Abbe, 28 (161). 
 
 Sidney Smith, Admiral, 34 (160). 
 Sieyes, abbe, member of Convention, 
 19 (158). 
 
 : Suchet., Marshal, 28 (159). 
 
 Talma, actor, 7 (163). 
 
 Tanska- Hoffmann, authoress, 26 
 (161). 
 
 Thiers, family of, 19 (158). 
 
 ■ Valence, General, 24 (161). 
 Vallesteros,Spanish general, 29(162). 
 Vicenza, Due de, see Caulaincourt. 
 Visconti, architect of the New 
 Louvre, 2 (164). 
 
 Volney, philosopher, 32 (160). 
 Wilhelm, musician, 8 (164). 
 
 The private Cimetiere Picpus, Rue tie Picpus 15, Faubourg 
 St. Antoine (adm. >/ 2 fr.), is the last resting-place of several 
 illustrious victims of the Revolution of 1793, and of members of 
 the old French noblesse. In a corner of this cemetery is the tomb 
 of Lafayette (d. 1834) and his wife (d. 1807), and at the end a 
 small enclosure termed the ‘cimetiere des guillotines’, where 1306 
 victims of the Revolution, executed at the Rarriilre du Trone, are 
 interred. 
 
167 
 
 17. Les Buttes Chaumont. 
 
 St. Jean Baptiste. 
 
 The new park of the *Buttes Chaumont, the last great work 
 of M. Haussmann, the former enterprising Prefect of the Seine, 
 is situated in the suburb Belleville, on the N.E. side of Paris. 
 The omnibuses which convey visitors to the vicinity of the park, 
 either directly or by ‘correspondance’, are those of the line AC, 
 from the Champs Elysdes (traversing the Boulevard des Capu- 
 cines) to La Villette, which is situated a little to the N. of 
 the park; or of the line N, Place des Victoires (traversing the 
 Boulevard St. Denis') to Belleville, situated to the S. of the park. 
 The station Belleville-Villette (p. 234) on the Chemin de Fer de 
 Ceinture is also not far from the Buttes Chaumont. The morning 
 is the most favourable time for the views. The park of course 
 contains several restaurants. 
 
 The Buttes Chaumont extend in the form of a crescent over 
 an area of 55 acres. The gibbet of Montfaueon once rose here, 
 and the place was a notorious haunt of criminals. All the rubbish 
 of Paris used to be deposited here, but about the year 1854 it 
 began to be removed owing to sanitary considerations, and it was 
 resolved to convert this ill-favoured locality into a park for the 
 benefit of the artizans of the neighbouring quarters. The peculiar 
 nature of the ground afforded an opportunity of laying it out in a 
 novel and picturesque manner, and the task was skilfully executed 
 by M. Alphand, the engineer, and M. Barillet, Jardinier en Chef de 
 Paris. The quarries formerly worked here have been transformed 
 into a rocky wilderness surrounded by a small lake, while the ad¬ 
 jacent rugged surface is now covered with gardens and promenades 
 shaded by trees. A cascade falling from a considerable height into an 
 artificial stalactite grotto is intended to enhance the attractions of 
 the scene. The highest rock is surmounted by a miniature Co¬ 
 rinthian temple, which, as well as the other hills, commands an 
 admirable *view of St. Denis, Pcre Lachaise, Montmartre, and an 
 ocean of houses. A steep path hewn in the rock (not at present open 
 to the public) descends from the top direct to the lake. Lower down 
 a wire bridge crosses from this rock to one of the others, and 
 all the different points of interest are thus rendered conveniently 
 accessible to visitors. The park with its mimic romantic scenery 
 presents a curious contrast to the densely peopled city which the 
 visitor surveys from it, and is one of the most remarkable 
 results of the untiring zeal for improvement which characterised 
 the reign of Napoleon III. 
 
 On ‘26th May, 1871, the Buttes Chaumont and Pcre Lachaise 
 were the only two positions still occupied by the insurgents. 
 Those in possession of the park threw great numbers of shells 
 filled with petroleum into different parts of the city, with a view 
 
168 
 
 18. MONTMARTRE. 
 
 to aggravate the ruin and destruction they had already occasioned, 
 while they in their turn were exposed to an incessant cannonade 
 from Montmartre. On the 27th they were compelled to succumb. 
 They then retreated to the lower part of Belleville, where they were 
 received by the advancing troops and shot down almost to a man. 
 If time permit, the traveller may now visit the church of — 
 
 *St. Jean Baptiste (PL, red, 13), situated in the Rue de Paris, 
 to the S. E. of the park. It may be reached from the park, either 
 by the Rue Fessard, or by the long Rue de Puebla, which extends 
 from the Boulevard de laVillette to the Cours de Vincennes. This 
 is one of the handsomest modern churches in Paris. It was built 
 in the Gothic style of the 13th cent, by Lassus (d. 1857), and con¬ 
 secrated in 1858. The chief portal is flanked by two towers, 198ft. 
 in height, the tympanum, as well as that of the lateral portals, being 
 tilled with sculpture. The interior is to be painted ‘al fresco’. The 
 chapel of the Virgin contains some fine stained glass. 
 
 A magnificent panorama is enjoyed from the neighbourhood of 
 the church, which occupies the highest ground in Paris. 
 
 In order to return to the centre of the city we may now either 
 take an omnibus from the Rue de Paris, or proceed to the Me'nil- 
 montant station on the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture, which is reached 
 by the Rue de la Mare , a street diverging from the Rue de Pudbla, 
 a little to the S. of the church. 
 
 18. Montmartre. 
 
 Cemetery of Montmartre. 
 
 The Rue Laffitte, terminated by Notre Dame de Lorette, 
 and its continuation the Rue des Martyrs lead straight from the 
 Boulevard des Italiens to the suburb of Montmartre. Pursuing the 
 same direction for about 1 M. more, we reach the heights of — 
 
 Montmartre, 320 ft. above the Seine, a hill containing ex¬ 
 tensive limestone and gypsum, or plaster of Paris, quarries, and 
 commanding a view of the N. of Paris. According to tradition, 
 St. Denis (p. 2G0) and his companions suffered martyrdom here, 
 and the present name of the hill is probably derived from Mons 
 Marlyrum. Others suppose the name to be derived from Mons 
 Martis, from a temple of Mars which is said to have stood here. 
 
 In 1147 Louis VI founded a Benedictine Abbey here, which 
 was secularised under the Republic; but the buildings still exist. 
 The most important of these is the church of St. Pierre , situated a 
 little to the r. before the top of the hill is reached, and dating from 
 the beginning of the 12th century. The nave contains columns of 
 the Merovingian period, and the apse antique columns in marble. 
 At the back of the church is a '■Jardin des Oliviers’ , containing curious 
 sculptures, to which pilgrimages are frequently made, particularly 
 in September. 
 
18. MONTMARTRE. 
 
 169 
 
 The heights of Montmartre witnessed the final struggle be¬ 
 tween the French and the Prussian and Russian allies on 30th 
 March. 1814, and also played an important part during the sieges 
 of 1870—71. On 18th March, 1871, the insurgent soldiers, who 
 had assassinated the generals Thomas and Lecomte, took possession 
 of the cannon on Montmartre, over which a body of the national 
 guard kept watch. Thus began the Communist rebellion of 18th 
 March to 28th May, 1871, a period of horrors almost without 
 parallel in the chequered annals of Paris. The insurgents were 
 at length dislodged from their position here by the victorious troops 
 on 24th May, and the latter in their turn directed the batteries 
 of Montmartre against the insurgents who occupied Les Buttes 
 Chaumont (p. 167) and Pere Laehaise (p. 155). The last shots 
 were fired hence on the evening of the 27th, and on the following 
 day the last sparks of the insurrection were extinguished. 
 
 The Tour de Solferino (admission 20 c.; a cafe on the ground- 
 floor), a small tower on the E. side of the hill, affords a fine 
 *panorama of the vast sea of houses in the city, of the plain 
 of St. Denis and the course of the Seine towards theN., and of 
 the valley of the Marne with Vincennes towards the E. 
 
 It was once proposed to erect a palace here, surrounded with 
 gardens and ornamental sheets of water, but two-thirds of the 
 plateau are now about to be occupied by a large church du Sucre 
 Cceur, and buildings connected with it. The hill will be reached 
 by a boulevard on the E. side, while on the W. side there will be 
 a flight of steps, and a square will be constructed on the S. side. 
 
 At the foot of the Montmartre, on the W. side, between the 
 Place Blanche and the Place de Clichy , lies the — 
 
 *Cemetery of Montmartre, or du Nord, the oldest burial-ground 
 of modern Paris, which, though far inferior to P6re Lachaise in 
 the number of its monuments and the celebrity of its dead, is 
 also worthy of a visit. 
 
 In the first path to the r. are three monuments to Polish re¬ 
 fugees, l exules Poloniae memoriae suorum', with the Polish eagle. 
 The first of them bears the inscription, l Exoriare aliquis nostris ex 
 ossibus ultorl' (‘may an avenger one day spring from our ashes’). 
 We now return to the main path. Here, to the r., is the family- 
 vault of Kalkbrenner (d. 1849), the composer. 
 
 Farther on, at the corner to the 1., is the vault of the Cavaiynac 
 family, to which belonged the author Oodefroy (d. 1845), and the 
 general Eugene (d. 1857), president of the republic from 28th June 
 to 20th Oct., 1848. 
 
 Beneath the cross in the rotunda are interred the republicans 
 who fell on the occasion of the coup d’etat in December, 1852, a 
 spot always decorated with numerous wreaths. 
 
 Farther on, in the principal path: Baron Menneval, ‘secretaire 
 intime de l’empereur Napolfion’. 
 
170 
 
 18. MONTMARTRE. 
 
 On a slight eminence at the end of this avenue is situated the 
 Jewish Burial Ground , which is closed on Saturdays. To the 1. of 
 the entrance is the monument of Marc Bedarride (d. 1846), ‘offlcier 
 d’etat- major de l’ancienne arm6e, premier grand conservateur de 
 l'ordre ma^onnique de Misraim’, a pyramid covered with freemasons’ 
 signs. A large proportion of the names, as in most Jewish burying- 
 grounds, are German and Portuguese. On most of the tombstones 
 are placed small heaps of stones or pebbles, in compliance with 
 the Jewish custom which requires relations and friends to show 
 their regard for the deceased in this manner. At the end of the 
 walk, to the 1., Halevy, the celebrated composer (d. 1862), with 
 a marble statue over life-size. 
 
 We now return to the principal cemetery. On the path leading 
 towards the W. (the second path to the r. after leaving the Jewish 
 burial ground), to the r., is the monument of ComteDaru (d. 1829), 
 the plenipotentiary of Napoleon at the conclusion of the peaces of 
 Pressburg, Tilsit, and Vienna, and minister of war in 1813. 
 
 1. Heine (d. 1856), the German poet, at some distance from 
 the path. 
 
 r. Armand Marrast (d. 1852), the republican, ‘membre du 
 gouvernement provisoire, Maire de Paris, President de l’Assemblee 
 Nationale’ in 1848. 
 
 At the end of this path, before reaching the steps, we turn 
 to the r.; one of the first graves to the 1. is that of Ad. Nourrit 
 (d. 1839), the celebrated singer. 
 
 1. Duchesse d’Abrant'es (d. 1838), wife of Marshal Junot, and 
 an eminent authoress; bust of the duchess in a medallion by 
 David d’Angers. 
 
 1. Charles Zeuner (d. 1841), the composer. — We descend the 
 steps to the r., and ascend those opposite. 
 
 On the eminence at the W. end of the Jewish cemetery: 1. 
 Kamienski, a young Polish volunteer in the French army, killed at 
 the battle of Magenta in 1859, with his statue, and his last words, 
 
 ‘Adieu r'eves, illusions, vanites /’ On the r. is a monument contain¬ 
 ing the heart of Marshal Cannes, Due de Montebello, who died in 
 1809 of wounds received at Aspern. 
 
 1. A large block of marble marks the grave of the artist Paul 
 Deluroche (d. 1857). Opposite is a chapel, half Greek, half Gothic 
 to the memory of Marie Potocka, Princesse Soltikoff (d. 1845). 
 Beyond the embankment is the extensive new cemetery with nu¬ 
 merous monuments of inferior interest. 
 
 A lofty obelisk, towards the S., in the prolongation of the walk 
 passing the monuments of Nourrit and Zeuner, the most conspi¬ 
 cuous monument in the e'emetery, marks the tomb of the Duchesse 
 of Montmorency (d. 1829); adjacent to it is the grave of a Prince 
 of Saxe Cobourg (d. 1832). 
 
 The lower part of the cemetery is uninteresting. 
 
171 
 
 19. Bois de Vincennes. 
 
 Ch6ttau de Vincennes. 
 
 The Bois de Vincennes, although much less frequented than the 
 Bois de Boulogne, is a beautiful park of scarcely inferior attraction, 
 and is in some respects even more picturesque and varied. The 
 traveller, when here, may take the opportunity of visiting the Cha¬ 
 teau de Vincennes. 
 
 This park was once a forest, where St. Louis used to hunt and 
 to administer justice, but was entirely replanted by Louis XV. in 
 1731. Since that period considerable encroachments on its extent 
 have been made by the railway and fortifications, but it still covers 
 an area of 2500 acres, including the Esplanade and ‘Polygone’. 
 Like the Bois de Boulogne and the Buttes Chaumont, it was trans¬ 
 formed into a public promenade during the second Empire. 
 
 The Bois de Vincennes is 4 1 /\ M. distant from the centre of the 
 city, and may be reached either by cab at the same fares as the Bois 
 de Boulogne (fares, p. 21), or by railway, or by omnibus. Those 
 who prefer the railway proceed to the Gare de Vincennes (PL, 
 white, 12), in the Place de la Bastille, by cab, or by one of the special 
 omnibuses from the Place de la Bourse and the Boulevard des Ca- 
 pucines (inside 30, outside 20 c.), or by one of the ordinary omni¬ 
 buses of the lines E, F, Q, R, Z, or AH (p. 23). From the N., S., 
 or W. side of the city the best conveyance is the Chemin de Fer de 
 Ceinture (change carriages at station Bel-Air, p.233). The best 
 point from which to visit the park is Nogent-sur-Marne, two 
 stations beyond Vincennes. Trains start from the Gare de Vin¬ 
 cennes at Paris at 5 min. and 35 min. past every hour. Fares 75 
 or 55 c. during the week, and 85 or 65 c. on Sundays and festivals. 
 
 Those who wish to go direct to the chateau or the village of 
 Vincennes may take an omnibus of the line AF1, starting from the 
 Square des Arts ct Metiers and crossing the Place du Trdne. The 
 tramway line is also to be extended as far as Vincennes. 
 
 Nogent-sur-Marne contains many pleasant country-houses, and 
 among them that of Marshal Vaillant, who was formerly minister of 
 war, the first to the r. on leaving the station. The Marne is crossed 
 heTe by a bridge nearly '/'2 M. in length, belonging to a branch of 
 the Strasbourg railway. Entering the park from this side, we take 
 the first side avenue to the 1., leading to a bifurcation named the 
 Fond de Beaute , where the roads from Vincennes and Nogent to 
 Joinville unite. A beautiful view of the Marne is obtained from this 
 point. To theE. opens a pleasant green valley, the peaceful appear¬ 
 ance of which betrays no symptom of its proximity to the great city. 
 
 Near Joinville-le-Pont, another station on the Vincennes railway, 
 is one end of the subterranean Canal de St. Maur , which was cut 
 through the hill in 1825. The tunnel is 660 yds. in length, 26 ft. in 
 height, and furnished with a towing path, which foot-passengers 
 
172 
 
 19. VINCENNES. 
 
 may also use. This canal is of great importance to the river traffic, 
 as it cuts off a bend of 12'/.2 M. which the Marne describes here. 
 
 A road leading from the Fond de Beaute to the r. passes at the 
 back of the redoubts of the Faisanderie and Gravelle, and in front 
 of the Ferine Napoleon, a model farm which may be visited. Be¬ 
 tween the redoubts and the chateau extend the Plaine de Gravelle 
 and the Champ de Manoeuvres, together forming the ‘Champ de St. 
 Maui. There is also a Race Course on the Plaine de Gravelle. About 
 a hundred and fifty paces from the redoubt is the Lac de Gravelle, 
 beyond which is the Rond Point de Gravelle, but we shall defer our 
 visit to the latter until we visit the second half of the Bois (p. 174). 
 
 On this side of the exercising-ground, on the outskirts of the 
 park near the Fond de Beaute, is the source of the Ruisseau des Mi- 
 nimes, a stream which we skirt to the r. as far as a bifurcation where 
 two avenues lead to the left. We follow the second of these, cross 
 the brook, and soon reach the artificial Lac des Minimes, 20 acres 
 in area, with three islets, the smallest of which, named the lie de 
 la Porte Jaune , at the farther end, and connected with the main¬ 
 land by a bridge, contains a restaurant. The two others, which 
 are connected with each other, may be reached by boat. Skirting 
 the lake to the r. we pass the Cascade formed by the united brooks 
 des Minimes and de Nogent. From the lie de la Porte Jaune an 
 avenue leads to Fontenay, a station and village outside the park. 
 Continuing our circuit of the lake we reach a clearing where a Py¬ 
 ramid erected by Louis XV. indicates the site of the oak under 
 which St. Louisonce administered justice, and beyond it we observe 
 the Polygone de l’Artillerie. The brook des Minimes issues from 
 the lake before this open space is reached, and in this direction wa¬ 
 ters one of the prettiest parts of the park. We cross it, bear to 
 the r., follow the Joinville and Vincennes road, turn at a right angle 
 by the Nouveau Fort, and thus reach the entrance to the chateau. 
 (Nearly opposite is the Cafe' du Grand-Orient.) 
 
 The Chftteau de Vincennes may be seen daily on application to 
 the concierge (fee). The Salle d’Armes, however, is shown on 
 Saturdays only, from 12 to 4, by permission of the minister of war. 
 The Donjon with its fine view and the chapel with the simple 
 monument of the Due d’Enghien are the only attractions to the 
 ordinary visitor. 
 
 The chateau was founded in the 12th cent, and afterwards grad¬ 
 ually transformed into a royal residence. In 1740 Louis XV. con¬ 
 verted it into a manufactory of porcelain (removed ten years later to 
 Sevres), and afterwards into a weapon manufactory. In 1832—44, 
 under Louis Philippe, the chateau was strongly fortified and fur¬ 
 nished with extensive artillery depots. Vincennes also possesses 
 an Ecole de Tir, where a number of officers from every regiment 
 are instructed in the use of the newest fire-arms, and whence 
 most of the recent improvements in this department have emanated. 
 
19. VINCENNES. 
 
 173 
 
 The chateau was long employed as a State-Prison. Out of a long 
 list of illustrious persons who have been confined within its walls, 
 may be mentioned the king of Navarre (1574), Conde (1(317), 
 Mirabeati (1777), the Due d’Enghien (1804), the ministers of 
 Charles X. (1830), and Raspail, llarbes, Blanqui, Courtais, and 
 other conspirators against the National Assembly (15th May, 1848). 
 
 A melancholy interest attaches to the fortress from its having 
 been the scene of the execution of the unfortunate Due d’Enghien. 
 He was arrested by order of Napoleon on 14th March, 1804, on 
 German territory, conveyed to Vincennes, and there condemned 
 on insufficient evidence by a court-martial as the leader of the 
 conspiracy of Pichegru, Cadoudal, and others against the emperor. 
 The sentence was executed on 20th March, and the body of the 
 duke interred in the fosse where he was shot. In 1810 Louis 
 XVIII. caused his remains to be removed to the chapel, where 
 he erected a monument to his memory. 
 
 In May, 1871. the chateau was one of the last places occu¬ 
 pied by the insurgents, but they were compelled to evacuate it 
 on the approach of the Versailles troops, leaving one of their 
 number concealed in a casemate with instructions to set fire to 
 the powder-magazine when the troops had entered. This unfor¬ 
 tunate wretch, whom almost certain death awaited in any case, 
 preferred suicide to the execution of his murderous commission. 
 On this occasion (29th May) 400 insurgents, unable to effect their 
 retreat, surrendered ‘it discretion’. 
 
 The Chapel, with its tasteful Gothic front, was begun in 1248 
 and completed in 1552. It was used as a magazine during the 
 first Revolution, but was restored to its sacred purposes in 1842. 
 The interior is remarkable for its lofty vaulting and several fine 
 stained glass windows. The monument of the Due d’Enghien, in 
 the old sacristy, a poor work by Deseine, consists of four figures in 
 marble, the duke supported by Religion, France bewailing his 
 loss, and a figure emblematic of Vengeance. 
 
 The Salle d’Armes, or armoury, contains a store of weapons 
 sufficient for the equipment of 120,000 men. 
 
 The platform of the Donjon , or Keep, a massive square tower 
 with four smaller towers at the corners, commands a fine pro¬ 
 spect. The walls of the tower are 17 ft. thick, and its five lofty 
 storeys, each consisting of one spacious apartment with four 
 smaller rooms in the corner towers, were formerly occupied by 
 the state-prisoners. 
 
 The traveller, if not disposed to see the rest of the park, may 
 return direct to Paris from the chateau by omnibus or railway. To 
 reach the station, follow the street opposite the entrance to the cha¬ 
 teau, and take the second street to the left. Trains for Paris stop 
 at Vincennes at 24 and 54 min. past every hour. The omnibus 
 (line AE) starts from the Rue de Paris, a street parallel with the 
 
174 
 
 19. VINCENNES. 
 
 chateau (a little beyond it, to the r. on leaving), follows this street, 
 traverses the Cours de Vincennes within the fortifications, crosses 
 the Place du Trone, and then ascends the Boulevard Voltaire to 
 the Chateau d’Eau and the principal boulevards. 
 
 The Place du Trone forms the E. extremity of Paris, being 5 M. 
 distant in a straight line from the Arc de l’Etoile at the N.W. 
 end, and is a centre from which twelve different streets radiate. On 
 26th Aug., 1660, after the conclusion of the Peace of the Pyrenees, 
 Louis XIV. received the homage of the citizens of Paris on a throne 
 erected here, and from that event the Place derives its present 
 name. The two lofty fluted Doric columns erected here were begun 
 in 1788, but not completed till 1847. Each is decorated with two 
 bas-reliefs by Desbceufs and Simart, those next the town represent¬ 
 ing Commerce and Industry, those on the other side Victory and 
 Peace. They are surmounted with statues in bronze: St. Louis by 
 Etex, and Philippe le Bel by Dumont. 
 
 After having visited the Chateau de Vincennes, if time permit, 
 the traveller may spend an hour or two in that part of the Bois de 
 Vincennes which lies on the side of the Champ de Manoeuvres oppo¬ 
 site to that which we have already described. The most attractive 
 part is between the chateau and St.Mandd, containing theLac deSt. 
 Mande with its well wooded environs. Leaving the chateau, we skirt 
 the building on the side next the Donjon, and follow the road to the 
 r. of the esplanade. Then, ascending by the lluisseau de St. Mande, 
 we reach the small Lac de Gravelle , near the redoubt of that name 
 (p. 172). On this side of the lake is the Rond Point de Gravelle, 
 commanding a pleasant view of the Marne, the Seine, and the exer¬ 
 cising ground. We now retrace our steps, follow a small stream to 
 the 1. which flows out of that of St. Mande, and pass at some distance 
 from the Maison de Sante of Charenton, a model establishment for 
 the insane, not shown to the public, and then near the Asite de Vin¬ 
 cennes, for convalescents. The village of Charenton, to the W. of 
 these asylums, has a station on the Paris and Lyons railway, by 
 which we may return to Paris (Gare de Lyon. p. 27; omnibus, 
 line P, p. 23). Or we may proceed to visit the picturesque Grand 
 Lac de Charenton, or de Daumesnil, with its islands, pavilion for 
 concerts, restaurant, artificial grotto, and pleasant environs. This 
 corner of the park, the most recently constructed, extends to the 
 fortifications. The Bois may now be quitted by the Porte de Picpus, 
 beyond the lake just mentioned, but it is preferable to traverse the 
 park, in the direction of St. Mande', and leave it by the next gate, 
 the Porte de Vincennes, near which there are stations of the 
 Vincennes railway and the Chemin de Per de Ceinture. By either 
 of these lines the traveller may return to the city. 
 
THE CIT A 
 
 20. Notre Dame. 
 
 Fontaine Notre Dame. La Morgue. U116tel Dieu. 
 
 Ill the time of Ciesar, B. C. 100—44, a town named I.utetia 
 stood on the lie de la Cite, the most ancient part of Palis , now 
 situated a little to the S.E. of the Palais Royal, which may be 
 regarded as the centre of the modern city. Above this island, and 
 connected with it by a bridge, is the smaller and less important lie 
 St. Louis. 
 
 If the traveller is not in the neighbourhood of the Cite', he may 
 reach it by one of the omnibus lines G, H, I), I, K, or AG (p. 23), 
 or by Seine steamer (p. 25). 
 
 Passing the Palais de Justice (p. 179), we first direct our steps 
 towards theE. end of the island, in order to visit the cathedral of — 
 
 :,: Notre Dame (open the whole day, except the choir, which is 
 closed from 10 to 1). This is a most interesting edifice from being 
 one of the oldest, though not the most beautiful, Gothic churches 
 in France. It was founded in 1163, the high altar was consecrated 
 about twenty years later, and the interior and facade were completed 
 early in the 13th century. The church covers an area of about 
 7120 sq. yds.; length 139 yds., width 52 yds., height of nave 110 ft. 
 The building has undergone many vicissitudes, havjng been fre¬ 
 quently injured, and as frequently altered and restored, but it has 
 recently been judiciously renovated and purged of most of its un¬ 
 sightly additions. The general effect is somewhat disappointing, 
 the heavy and depressed appearance of the edifice being partly due 
 to constructive defects, partly to the lowness of its situation , and 
 partly to the absence of spires. It is moreover now surrounded by a 
 number of lofty buildings which tend still farther to dwarf its dimen¬ 
 sions; and, lastly, the surrounding soil has been considerably raised 
 within the last century, for whereas the church was approached by 
 a flight of thirteen steps in 1748, it is now level with the pave¬ 
 ment outside. 
 
‘20. NOTRE DAME. 
 
 176 
 
 The most striking part of Notre Dame is the *Fa<;ade , which is 
 220 ft. in height, including the towers. It consists of three different 
 storeys. On the low-er are three pointed, receding portals, adorned 
 with rich sculpture, that of the central entrance representing the 
 Last Judgment. The portal on the r. is dedicated to St. Anne, that 
 on the 1., by which the church is generally entered, to the Virgin, 
 both being adorned with sculptures relating to these saints. This 
 storey is separated from the one above it by a gallery, or series of 
 niches, containing modern statues of 28 kings of France, from Chil- 
 debert I. to Philip Augustus, copied from those at Rheims, the ori¬ 
 ginals having been destroyed with many of the other sculptures in 
 the church in 1793, when it was converted into a ‘Temple of Reason’. 
 Above this gallery are placed a statue of the Virgin in the centre, 
 and figures of Adam and Eve on the r. and 1. The chief ornament 
 of the second storey is the magnificent rose-window , 42 ft. in dia¬ 
 meter, on each side of which are a pair of pointed windows with a 
 small closed rose above them. The third storey is a gallery composed 
 of pointed arches in pairs about 26 ft. in height, borne by very 
 slender columns, each double arch being crowned with an open 
 trefoil. Above this gallery runs an open balustrade, surmounted 
 with figures of monsters and animals, and the facade finally termin¬ 
 ates in two massive square towers, each about 50 ft. in width, and 
 pierced on each side with a pair of elongated windows, about 55 ft. 
 in height. TheS. tower contains the great bell. We shall examine the 
 side portals and the rest of the exterior after having visited the interior. 
 
 The Interior , which like the rest of the building was restored 
 during the first half of the present century , is less impressive than 
 the exterior, and the central vaulting being too little subdivided, 
 the general effect is somewhat heavy. The church is cruciform, 
 flanked with double aisles, and 25 chapels. The nave rests on 
 30 massive columns with capitals adorned rvith foliage. Above the 
 aisles runs a triforium borne by 108 small monolith columns, and 
 the clerestory is pierced with 37 large windows. The ancient stained 
 glass of the roses over the principal and lateral portals is worthy of 
 inspection. To the r. of the S. portal are two marble slabs record¬ 
 ing the names of 75 victims of the Commune. The organ is a fine 
 instrument with 6000 pipes and 86 stops. 
 
 The gates of the choir and surrounding passage are open on 
 Sundays until the close of the services , and during the week from 
 8 to 10, and from 1 till evening. Tickets for the choir and the 
 treasury (50 c.) are sold by the verger, at the r. entrance to the choir. 
 
 The Choir and the Altar are separated from the surrounding 
 gallery by very handsome railings. The choir stalls and the reliefs 
 in wood, representing chiefly scenes from the history of Christ and 
 the Virgin, should be noticed. Behind the sumptuous new altar, 
 which was dedicated in 1872, are statues of Louis XIII. and 
 Louis XIV., and a Pieta by Coustou (d. 1733). 
 
20. NOTRE DAME. 
 
 177 
 
 At the beginning of the surrounding gallery, on the S. side, is 
 the entrance to the Nouvelle Sacristie , erected in 1846—48 by 
 Viollet-le-Duc in the same style as the cathedral, and now containing 
 the Treasury. The ‘crown of thorns’, a fragment of the ‘true cross’, 
 and other relics formerly in the Sainte Chapelle (p. 181), reliquaries, 
 ecclesiastical vestments and vessels. and other curiosities are 
 preserved here. The lofty windows of the sacristy are filled with 
 stained glass representing archbishops of Paris and scenes from their 
 history, among which is the death of Msgr. Affre(p. 62). The bloody 
 clothes and other reminiscences of the archbishops Affre, Sibour 
 (p. 196), and Darboy (p. 156) are shown in the Chapitre desVetements. 
 
 The Cour du Chapitre , a beautiful little Gothic court adjoining 
 the sacristy, a perfect gem of its kind , is embellished with a small 
 fountain in the form of a reliquary, surmounted with eight statues 
 of bishops in a sitting posture, in stone. 
 
 When the Pourtour, or passage round the choir, is open, visitors 
 are at liberty to walk through it, except during divine service. The 
 chapels in this part of the church chiefly contain monuments to 
 former archbishops of Paris. The first beyond the sacristy is that of 
 Msgr. Affre, by Debray. with the inscription, ‘Puisse mon sang 
 etre le dernier vers£!’ Then that of Msgr. Sibour; that of the Due 
 d’Harcourt (d. 1718) represents the deceased rising from the tomb, 
 by Pigalle (d. 1785); the chapel of Msgr. Darboy and his prede¬ 
 cessor Cardinal Morlot contains a statue in a kneeling posture ; that 
 of Cardinal de Belloy (d. 1806) contains a *group in marble by 
 Deseine, representing the venerable prelate at the age of 99 giving 
 alms to a woman and her child; that of Msgr. Juigne (d. 1811) is by 
 Cartellier; Msgr. de Quelen (d. 1839) is represented by a half recum¬ 
 bent statue; Cardinal de Noailles (d. 1729), a figure in a kneeling 
 posture. Outside the choir are some well executed reliefs in stone, 
 gilded, representing scenes from the life of Christ. 
 
 The *view from the towers of Notre Dame, the finest in the city, 
 except that from the Tour St. Jacques (p. 136), embraces the course 
 of the Seine with its numerous bridges and the principal public 
 edifices in the environs. The entrance to the towers is outside the 
 church , to the 1. of the portals. The dwelling of the custodian is 
 reached by 63 steps (fee 20 c.), and the platform on the summit by 
 305 more. Halfway up, the great Beil is shown for an additional fee 
 of 20 c.; it is one of the largest in existence, weighing 16 tons, and 
 the clapper nearly half-a-ton. 
 
 The towers afford the best view of the spire which was erected 
 in 1859 over the centre of the church. It is constructed of oak and 
 covered with lead, and is 146 ft. in height. 
 
 In order to complete our inspection of Notre Dame, we shall now 
 walk round the whole church. The Lateral Portals consist of vaulted 
 bays enriched with sculptures, and crowned with pointed pediments. 
 Above each is an open gallery with stained glass windows, a large 
 
 BaiOEKEK. Paris. 4tli Edition. 12 
 
178 
 
 20. NOTRE DAME. 
 
 rose window like that of the facade , and a lofty pediment pierced 
 with a smaller rose and flanked with two turrets. In other respects 
 the sides of the building are comparatively plain, the original 
 buttresses having been sacriliced to the inserted chapels. 
 
 The outside of the choir is adorned with 23 interesting Bas- 
 Reliefs in painted stone, executed in the middle of the 14th cent., 
 and representing scenes from the life of Christ. 
 
 The *Fontaine Notre Dame at the back of the cathedral, which 
 adorns a square formed on the site of the old archiepiscopal palace, 
 is an elegant monument, 48 ft. in height, designed by Yigoureux, 
 and erected in 1845. The base consists of a double basin into which 
 water is poured from the mouths of dragons which are subdued by 
 angels, and above them rises a miniature building in the Gothic 
 style. The latter is composed of three graceful columns , bearing a 
 spire with indented outlines, beneath which is a statue of the Virgin 
 holding the Child in her arms. At the end of the island, a few paces 
 beyond the fountain, is the — 
 
 Morgue (open daily, except Sundays), a building where corpses 
 of unknown persons who have perished in the river or otherwise 
 are exposed to view for three days. The bodies are placed on marble 
 slabs, kept cool by a constant flow of water, and their clothing is 
 hung above them. The corpses thus exposed number about 290 
 annually, 50 of them being those of women. The painful scene 
 attracts many spectators daily, chiefly persons of the lower orders. 
 
 The long building which rises on the back of the Seine , on the 
 N. side of the Place de Notre Dame, is the Hdtel-Dieu, the oldest 
 hospital at Paris and probably in Europe, having been founded 
 in 060, under Clovis II. The old building, which has of course 
 been frequently restored, is about to be demolished, as the spacious 
 Nouvel Hotel Dieu is now completed. Beyond these buildings rise 
 two large barracks completed in 1866, the Tribunal, and the Palais 
 de Justice (see below). 
 
 The small iron stalls between the Nouvel Hotel Dieu and the 
 Tribunal de Commerce have lately been constructed for the flower- 
 market held here on Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 
 21. Palais de Justice and Sainte Chapelle. 
 
 Tribunal de Commerce. Conciergerie. Prefecture de Police. Place Dauphine. 
 
 Pont Nevf. Fontaine St. Michel. 
 
 The W. half of the Cite island, at the W. end of which the 
 Seine is crossed by the Pont Neuf , is occupied by an almost un¬ 
 broken mass of buildings, consisting of the Palais de Justice in 
 the centre, the Conciergerie on the Quai de l’Horloge to the N., 
 and the Prefecture de Police on the Quai des Orfevres to the S. 
 The island was anciently the residence of the French monarchs, 
 but the palace was ceded by Henri II. (d. 1559) to the parliament, 
 which at that period was the supreme tribunal of the kingdom. 
 
21. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 
 
 179 
 
 *Palais de Justice. The original editlce suffered so much 
 by fire in 1618, and again in 1776, that nothing of it now re¬ 
 mains except the towers: Tour de VHorloge , Tour du Grand 
 Cesar , and Tour de Montgomery , all on the N. side, and beyond 
 them the pinnacled Tour d'Argent. The first of these towers, 
 forming the N.E. corner of the Palais, next to the Pont au 
 Change, with the large clock adorned with two figures representing 
 Justice and Piety, was carefully restored and decorated in 1852. 
 The first public clock seen in France was placed here in 1370 by 
 Henri de Vic, a German olockmaker, and continued in use for about 
 four centuries. 
 
 The Palais de Justice (open daily, except Sundays) underwent 
 extensive alterations between 1839 and 1871, the numerous dark 
 passages and nooks which disfigured the interior having been 
 removed. The new buildings on the W. side were completed in 
 1869, and the fitting up of the interior was progressing rapidly 
 when war was declared against Prussia in 1870. The wanton 
 destruction of the greater part of this imposing pile on 22nd May, 
 1871, forms another of the hideous list of crimes of which the 
 Commune was guilty. Several of the courts were entirely destroyed, 
 and others more or less injured, but the work of restoration is 
 progressing, and the business of the different tribunals is still, 
 although under difficulties, transacted within the building. A 
 considerable time, however, must necessarily elapse before the dam¬ 
 age is entirely repaired. In the spring of 1874, the Salle des 
 Pas Perdus and the Tour de Montgomery had not yet been rebuilt. 
 
 The different courts of justice, the Cour de Cassation (entirely 
 destroyed in 1871), the Cour d'Appel, the Assises, the Tribunal 
 de Premiere Instance, and the Tribunal de Police , sit here from 
 11 till 3 o’clock, and should be visited by the traveller who desires 
 to witness the proceedings of a French tribunal. A guide (1 —2 fr.) 
 will be found useful, and one of the ‘e'crivains publics’ who are to 
 be found in the galleries may be hired for the purpose. In the 
 Chambre de Police Correctionelle very amusing scenes sometimes 
 occur, and the pleading is often excellent; but those who are in¬ 
 terested in legal questions will of course prefer to visit one of the 
 courts in which a civil case is being tried, and where they will 
 hear some of the most eminent barristers plead. The French 
 llarreau is probably unsurpassed in eloquence, though not perhaps 
 in soundness of reasoning and breadth of views. 
 
 The principal entrance of the Palais de Justice is by the Cour 
 d’Honneur, adjoining the Boulevard du Palais, and separated from 
 it by a handsome railing. The projecting facade is adorned with 
 four Doric columns and symbolical statues above them, and covered 
 with a quadrangular dome. The great stair leads to a long vesti¬ 
 bule used as a cloak-room. 
 
 Judges and advocates in their black robes, the latter sometimes 
 
 12* 
 
180 
 
 21. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 
 
 in conference with their clients, are usually seen pacing up and 
 down in this hall, as well as in the other galleries. Around it sit 
 the public writers, whose office is to render assistance with their 
 pens to inexperienced litigants. This busy scene is the only 
 interesting feature in the Palais de Justice to those who do not 
 desire to visit the courts themselves. 
 
 The way to the Sainte Chapelle is to the 1., while the stair in 
 the middle, adorned with a statue of Justice, leads to the two first 
 chambers of the Cour d'Appel. We turn to the r. and pass through 
 a glass door to see the ruins of the Salle des Pas Perdus, a lofty 
 vaulted hall, supported by columns, and one of the largest of 
 the kind, being 85 yds. long, and 29 yds. in width. A number of 
 ‘Chambres’, or courts, opened into it, and it extended as far as the 
 boulevard. Many historical reminiscences attach to this part of the 
 building. Before the fire of 1618, this was the great hall of the 
 palace, where the clergy of the ‘ basoche ’ (a corruption of basilica, 
 or royal palace) were privileged to perform moral plays and farces. 
 About halfway down the hall, on the r. side, is a monument, at 
 present covered by boards, erected by Louis XVIII. in 1821 to 
 the memory of the minister Malesherbes, who was beheaded in 
 1794, the defender of Louis XVI. before the revolutionary tri¬ 
 bunal, as the relief below, by Cortot, indicates; the statue is by 
 Ttosio; on the sides are figures emblematic of France and Fide¬ 
 lity, with the inscription: Strenue semper fidelis regi suo, in 
 solio veritatem, praesidium in carcere attulit. (Ever courageously 
 faithful to his king, he rendered him sound advice on the throne 
 and assistance in prison.) 
 
 Under the Communist regime in 1871 the infamous Raoul 
 Rigault, the ‘procureur’ of the Commune, established himself 
 with his accomplice Gaston Dacosta, at first in the Cour de Cas¬ 
 sation, and afterwards in the Salle des Appels Correctionels, 
 where the guards of Paris and ‘sergents de ville’ arrested by 
 order of the ‘comite central’ on 18th March were condemned 
 to death by a mock tribunal. On the morning of 22nd May, 
 Rigault ordered petroleum to be poured out in different parts of 
 the palace and set on fire. In consequence of these preparations 
 the fire spread with fearful rapidity, and before the close of the day 
 the greater part of the palace was reduced to a heap of Tuins. 
 
 To the 1. of the Salle des Pas Perdus is a long corridor, called 
 the Galerie des Merciers, connecting the vestibule next to the 
 Cour d’Honneur with another vestibule, parallel to the first, and 
 adjoining the new W. facade. There is, however, no entrance at 
 present from this side, as the works are not yet quite completed. 
 The exterior of this facade may be seen from the Place Dauphine 
 (see below). A handsome stair here leads to the Cour d'Assises. 
 
 The spacious halls of the ground-floor, known as the Cuisine 
 
21. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 
 
 181 
 
 de St. Louis, also deserve a visit. They date from the time of 
 St. Louis and Philippe le Bel, and were restored in 1868. 
 
 The *Sainte Chapelle, situated in the S. court of the Palais 
 de Justice, is open daily from 12 to 4, a fee being payable on 
 Mondays and Fridays only. It is reached directly by a passage to 
 the 1. of the railing on entering the Cour d’Honneur. This was 
 the ancient palace-chapel, erected in 1245.—48 by Pierre de Mon- 
 tereau for the reception of the sacred relics which St. Louis is 
 said to have purchased from Jean de Brienne, king of Jerusalem, 
 and his son-in-law Baldwin, emperor of Byzantium, for the sum 
 of 3 million francs. These relics, consisting of fragments of the 
 ‘true cross’, ‘crown of thorns’, etc., are now preserved at Notre 
 Dame (p. 177). The chapel, a perfect gem of its kind, and the 
 most beautiful Gothic edifice in Paris, fortunately escaped de¬ 
 struction in 1871, although almost entirely surrounded by a 
 blazing mass of buildings. Height 114 ft., length 114 ft., width 
 39 ft. The interior consists of two chapels, one above the other, 
 the upper having been intended for the court, the lower for the 
 attendants. The elegant windows, with their richly sculptured 
 mullions and mouldings, 48 ft. in height and 13 ft. in width, 
 are filled with beautiful stained glass, representing scenes from 
 the life of St. Louis, coeval with the foundation. The portal of 
 the upper chapel is surmounted by a large rose window and a fine 
 gable flanked with two graceful turrets. 
 
 The slender gilded spire which crowns the chapel, restored in 
 1853, is 80 ft. in height. From the year 1793 down to its last 
 restoration, the chapel was used as a receptacle for the archives of 
 the Palais de Justice. The interior is richly decorated. The lower 
 chapel consists of nave and aisles, borne by clustered columns. The 
 carved oak on the ceiling should be observed. The upper chapel, 
 which is sumptuously gilded and painted, contains the fine stained 
 glass already mentioned, the statues of the twelve Apostles against 
 the pillars, and a handsome altar, recently restored, behind which 
 is the Gothic canopy, in wood, where the sacred relics were formerly 
 preserved. 
 
 Before visiting the Conciergerie, a pertinent of the Palais de 
 Justice, we first cross the Boulevard du Palais to see the — 
 
 Tribunal de Commerce, situated on the 1. when approached 
 from the N. bank of the Seine. The building, which is in the Re¬ 
 naissance style and was completed in 1866, is uninteresting exter¬ 
 nally. It is covered by an octagonal dome, pierced with ‘ceils- 
 de-bffiuf’, and being placed in a line with the Boulevard de 
 Sdbastopol, it commands a view of the Gare de l’Est in the 
 distance. The interior deserves a visit. A staircase, adorned with 
 sculptures by Dubut, ascends from the long vestibule to the courts. 
 At the top of it are statues of Industrial Art by Pascal, Mechanical 
 Art by Maindron, Land Commerce by Cabet, and Maritime Com- 
 
1S2 
 
 21. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 
 
 merce by Cliapu. Enclosed, within the building is a quadrangle 
 surrounded by two colonnades, one above the other, above which 
 are caryatides supporting the iron framework of the glass-covered 
 roof. The Salle d'Audience, 57 ft. long and 43 ft. wide, is wains¬ 
 coted with oak, and adorned with panels in imitation of porcelain 
 painting, and with pictures referring to the purpose of the build¬ 
 ing, by Fleury. 
 
 The Conciergerie , with its gloomy walls and ancient towers 
 overlooking the Seine on the N. side, the oldest part of the building, 
 is used as a prison for persons awaiting their examination or trial. 
 Most of the political prisoners mentioned at p. 120 were confined 
 here before they were conducted to the guillotine. The chamber 
 once occupied by Marie Antoinette, who had been brought here 
 from the Temple, now forms part of the sacristy and the chapel. 
 Three pictures here by Simon, Pajou, and Drolling, represent the 
 closing scenes of her life. A black marble slab on the wall bears 
 an inscription, composed by Louis XVIII. 
 
 The Prefecture de Police (office-hours 9—4) was established 
 in 1800 in two buildings to the W. of the Palais de Justice, 
 termed the Cour des Comptes, erected in 1504, burned down in 
 1737, and afterwards rebuilt, and the Hotel des Premiers Pre¬ 
 sidents du Parlement, erected in 1607. These buildings having 
 become inadequate for modern requirements, it was determined 
 to transfer the Prefecture to a new edifice adjoining the Palais 
 de Justice on the S. side, and facing the Quai des Orfevres. 
 This new Prefecture was completed in 1870, but the transference 
 of the offices had not been effected when the Franco-Prussian 
 war was declared. The old prefecture had been occupied by 
 twenty-seven successive prefects, the last usurpers of the office 
 having been the Communists Raoul Rigault and his successor Th. 
 Ferre', a member of the ‘comitd du salut public’. One of the most 
 atrocious crimes of which Rigault was guilty was committed here 
 on 24th May, 1871, the day of the burning of the Prefecture 
 by his accomplice Ferre. On the morning of that day Rigault 
 ordered 150 prisoners detained at the Depot de la Pre'fecture to 
 be set at liberty. Their joy at their supposed release, however, 
 was converted into dismay when they were required to aid in 
 the defence of the barricades against the government troops. 
 As they refused to obey, the insurgents at once began to fire on 
 them. The survivors retreated hastily to the prison which they 
 had quitted, but finding it in flames, fell an easy prey to the 
 fiendish wrath of their murderers. 
 
 From this point, under the second Empire, radiated all the 
 threads which constituted the partly visible and partly invisible 
 network of police authority which extended over the whole city. 
 The prefect of the police had an annual sum of 13 million francs 
 at his command, for the maintenance of 300 officials, 7000 com- 
 
21. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 
 
 183 
 
 missaries, inspectors, and sergents de ville, 3000 men of the 
 Garde municipale, and 800 sapeurs-pompiers or flre-men. By 
 this efficient staff, public order as well as the public health were 
 admirably provided for. Paris, the once notorious Lutetia, or 
 muddy city, became one of the cleanest towns in the world, and, 
 notwithstanding the 60,000 criminals of various kinds which it 
 was computed to harbour, afforded greater security to its inhabitants 
 than the quietest provincial town. 
 
 Under the present Republic, this admirably organised police 
 system continues to exist, though with some modifications. The 
 buildings of the prefecture, however, the old, as well as the 
 new above mentioned, were destroyed on 24th May, 1871; the 
 former entirely, being partly constructed of wood, the latter in 
 the interior only. On 23rd May, Ferre, the last soi-disant pre¬ 
 fect, directed the walls and furniture of these extensive edifices 
 to be saturated with petroleum, and ordered the concierge to be 
 imprisoned for refusing to assist him. On the same evening, this 
 ruffian and twenty-nine of his associates celebrated a banquet 
 within the buildings, to which, on the termination of their 
 midnight orgies, they set fire in eleven different places. The 
 concierge fortunately effected his escape, and succeeded in rescuing 
 a number of valuable documents from the flames, but all efforts to 
 extinguish the conflagration were fruitless. 
 
 The offices of the Prefecture de Police are temporarily established 
 in the buildings connected with the Palais de Justice, the en¬ 
 trances being on the Quai de l’Horloge and the Quai des Orfevres, on 
 opposite sides of the island; but the new building destined for the 
 purpose on the Boulevard du Palais and the Quai des Orfevres, to 
 the I. of the Sainte Chapelle is now approaching completion. 
 
 The W. facade of the Palais de Justice, by Due, is unfinished. 
 The gravity of the style accords well with the purpose of the build¬ 
 ing. The second vestibule above mentioned will be entered by 
 three doors on this side, that in the centre being approached by a 
 handsome stair, adorned with eight fluted Doric columns. 
 
 Opposite this facade stood the old Prefecture, destroyed in 1871, 
 the ruins of which have been cleared away. A little farther towards 
 the W. lies the triangular — 
 
 Place Dauphine, constructed under Henri IV. (d. 1610), with 
 brick houses coeval with those of the Place des Vosges (p. 62), 
 and formerly the residence of the parliamentary advocates and of¬ 
 ficials. In the centre of the Place, which was much damaged in 
 1871, rises Desaix’s Monument , a fountain surmounted by a bust 
 of the general, who is being crowned with laurels by a figure 
 representing France. The inscriptions which record the virtues 
 of the general and his death at Marengo on 14th June, 1800, are 
 not exaggerated, as he was called ‘the just sultan’ by the Egyptians, 
 
184 
 
 21. PONTNEUF. 
 
 and ‘le bon general' by the German peasantry. An opening at the 
 W. angle of the Place Dauphine leads to the — 
 
 *Pont Neuf, a bridge 360 yds. in length, crossing both arms of 
 the Seine. It is embellished with an equestrian Statue of Henri IV., 
 erected in 1818 to replace one which had stood here from 1635 to 
 1792, when it was melted down and converted into cannon. By 
 way of retaliation Louis XVIII. condemned the statue of Napoleon 
 on the Vendome column and that of Desaix in the Place des 
 Victoires to a similar fate. At the sides are two reliefs in bronze, 
 one of which represents Henri IV. distributing bread among the 
 besieged citizens of Paris; the other, his halt at Notre Dame, 
 where he causes peace to be proclaimed by the Archbishop of Paris. 
 
 The stair adjoining the monument descends to the Ecole de 
 Natation Henri IV., a swimming-bath in the Seine (p. 40), and 
 to the concerts of the Vert Galant (p. 50). 
 
 In the 16th cent, the Pont Royal was the scene of the recitals 
 of Tabarin, a famous satirist of the day, and was long afterwards 
 the favourite rendezvous of jugglers, showmen, loungers, and thieves. 
 
 This bridge, the neighbouring quay, the Quai Conti on the 1. 
 bank, and the Pont des Arts, the next bridge lower down, all com¬ 
 mand a line general *view of the Louvre. The large building on 
 the Quai Conti is the Monnaie (p. 211). The wall of the house 
 No. 5, near the door, bears a gilded inscription to this effect: 
 ‘Souvenir historique. L'empereur Napoleon Bonaparte, officier 
 d'artillerie sortant, en 1781, de l'ecole de Brienne, demeurait au 
 cinquieme etage de cette maison.’ 
 
 Crossing from the Cite to the left bank of the river by the Bou¬ 
 levard du Palais, we enter the Boulevard St. Michel , which forms 
 the continuation of the last named and of the Boulevard de Sevasto¬ 
 pol. Against the wall of a corner house in the Place at the be¬ 
 ginning of this street rises the Fontaine St. Michel, erected in 1860, 
 a handsome monument 83 ft. in height, in the form of a triumphal 
 arch in the Renaissance style, with a niche in the centre containing 
 a group of St. Michael subduing the dragon, in bronze by Duret. 
 Under the group is an artificial rock from which the water falls into 
 three basins flanked with griffins. On each side of the niche are 
 columns in red marble, bearing statues of Truth, Prudence, Power, 
 and Justice, in bronze. Above is an inscription, and a pair of 
 eagles with outspread wings. The lowness of the monument is one 
 of its chief defects. 
 
 Ascending the Boulevard, we cross that of St. Germain, which 
 is still unfinished, pass the Musde des Thermes (p. 197) on the L, 
 the Lyc6e St. Louis on the r., the Place de la Sorbonne on the L, 
 and reach the Jardin du Luxembourg on the 1. 
 
LEFT BANK OF THE SEINE. 
 
 22. Palais du Luxembourg. 
 
 Garden. Neifs Monument. Observatory. 
 
 In the quarters of the city on the 1. bank of the Seine, viz. 
 the Faubourg St. Marcel, Faubourg St. Jacques and St. Michel 
 (Quartier Latin), and the Faubourg St. Germain , the principal ob¬ 
 jects of interest are tire Jardin des Plantes (p. 201), the Pantheon 
 (p. 192), and the Palais du Luxembourg, with its Gallery of 
 Modern Pictures, the last of which deservedly holds the first 
 rank. Like the collections of the Louvre, it is open to the public 
 daily, Mondays excepted, from 9 to 5 in summer, and 10 to 4 
 in winter. The garden is open daily. Visitors were formerly 
 admitted to the palace also (gratuity 1 fr. for one pers., 2—3 fr. 
 for a party), but since the destruction of the lidtel de Ville it 
 has been occupied by the offices of the Prefet de la Seine, and 
 is at present closed to the public. (Restaurants, see p. 15. 
 Omnibus lines II, AF, and AG, see p. 23). 
 
 * Palace. The Palais du Luxembourg, the largest in Paris 
 after the Louvre, the Tuileries, and the Palais Royal, was erected 
 in the style of the Pitti Palace at Florence and sumptuously deco¬ 
 rated by Debrosse, by order of Marie de Medicis , in 1015. It 
 was afterwards altered by Chalgrin, the architect of the Arc de 
 l'Etoile. It was here, in the spring of 1621, that Rubens designed 
 the large pictures representing scenes from the queen’s life, now in 
 the Louvre, which he afterwards executed at Antwerp with the 
 aid of his pupils, and exhibited in the halls of the Luxembourg 
 in 1625. The long gallery still contains frescoes by Jordaens, 
 the talented pupil of Rubens. 
 
 The palace derives its name from the Duke of Pinay-Luxem- 
 bourg, whose mansion formerly occupied the same site; and 
 although various other names have been proposed, none of them 
 has ever been permanently adopted. 
 
 The palace continued to be a royal residence down to the 
 Revolution, shortly before which it was presented by Louis XVI. 
 
186 
 
 22. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 to his brother the Count of Provence (Louis XV11I.), who quitted 
 it in June, 1791. 
 
 The Convention, which had selected the Tuileries as the centre 
 of its operations, converted the Luxembourg into a prison, chiefly 
 for persons of noble family, and Hebert, Camille Desmoulins, 
 Danton, Robespierre, the artist David, Josephine Beauharnais, 
 and others were afterwards confined here. In 1795 the buildingwas 
 named the Palais da Directoire, and afterwards the Palais da 
 Consulat. The Consulate, however, sat here for a short period 
 only, as Bonaparte removed to the Tuileries on 29th Feb., 1800. 
 
 During the first Empire the palace was occupied by the se¬ 
 nate, and termed Palais du Senat-Conservateur . After the Resto¬ 
 ration, and under Louis Philippe, the Chamber of Peers met here. 
 In March and April, 1848, the ‘ Commission des Travailleurs' under 
 Louis Blanc held its Socialist meetings in the palace. From 1852 
 to 1870 it was again styled Palais da Senat , that body having 
 again sat here during the second Empire. Since 1871, as already 
 mentioned, the palace has been occupied by the offices of the Prefct 
 dc la Seine. 
 
 The principal facade, which has been restored in conformity 
 with the design of Desbrosse, rises opposite the Rue de Tournon. 
 It is nearly 100 yds. in width, and consists of a central dome-cov¬ 
 ered pavilion and two wings connected by galleries. It is adorned 
 with Tuscan, Doric, and composite columns placed above each other. 
 On the whole the building is one of the handsomest and most 
 symmetrical in Paris, although somewhat heavy. The facade 
 towards the garden is similar to the principal front, but more effec¬ 
 tive, partly owing to its more open situation. 
 
 Although the picture gallery only is at present open to the 
 public, the other apartments may also be described, as visitors may 
 before long be again admitted to them. 
 
 The *Salle du Trone, sumptuously fitted up in 1856, was 
 formed from the old Salle da Senat and Salle des Conferences. 
 The walls are adorned with a series of large pictures of scenes 
 from the history of the Napoleons: 1. Napoleon I. elected Emperor, 
 by Signol ; 2. He signs the Concordat, by Hesse; 3. Pre¬ 
 
 sentation of the flags captured at Austerlitz, by Philippoteaux; 
 4. Napoleon at the Invalides, by Couder. In the dome, Apothe¬ 
 osis of Napoleon I. and Triumph of Universal Suffrage, by Alaux 
 (7,500,000 votes in favour of the late Emperor). 5. Distri¬ 
 bution of eagles in the Champ de Mars in 1852, by Pils ; 6. 
 Return of the Pope to Rome in 1849, by Benouville; 7. The 
 Senate proclaiming the Empire, by Couder; 8. Napoleon III. in¬ 
 specting the progress of the New Louvre, by Gosse. The paint¬ 
 ings in the semi-domes, by Lehmann , represent France obtaining 
 Religion and Independence under the Merovingians and Carlo- 
 vingians, and France under the Capctians, the Valois, the Bout- 
 
22. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 187 
 
 bons, and the Empire. The Galerie des Bastes, containing the 
 busts of the senators of the first Empire, surrounds the Salle 
 du Senat. The latter was destroyed by fire in 1859, but was 
 restored in its original form. The lowest seats were reserved for 
 princes, cardinals, and marshals. Returning through the Salle du 
 Trone, we next enter the Cabinet de I’Empereur , which contains 
 the following pictures: 1. Napoleon III. entering Paris, by Couder; 
 2. His Marriage, by Fleury ; 3. Napoleon I. signing the Peace of 
 Campoformio, by Brisset; 4. The 18th Brumaire, by Vinchon. A 
 stair now descends to the Apartments of Queen Marie de Medicis. 
 
 The decorations of the Bed-Chamber of Marie de Medicis were 
 torn down and partially destroyed during the first Revolution , but 
 some of them were afterwards found in a garret of the Louvre. 
 Louis XVIII. caused this apartment to be restored in its former 
 style in 1817. The decorations, which consist of arabesques 
 on a gold ground, are executed with great taste, and the paintings 
 are of the school of Rubens. After the restoration, and under 
 Louis Philippe, this room was known as the Salle du Livre d'Or, 
 being used as a receptacle for records of the titles and armorial 
 bearings of the Peers of France. At that period it was customary 
 for members of noble families to have their marriages solemnised 
 in the Chapel of the Luxembourg, which was restored and richly 
 decorated in 1842. 
 
 The Library of the Senate, a handsome gallery with 40,000 
 vols., is not shown to the public. The dome is adorned with one 
 of the finest works of the talented Eugene Delacroix (d. 1863), 
 representing Elysium as portrayed by Dante, and remarkable for 
 its spirited style and rich colouring. 
 
 The **Musee du Luxembourg, a collection of Works of Living 
 Artists, consisting of paintings, sculptures, drawings, engravings, 
 and lithographs, about 400 in all, is situated in the E. wing of 
 the palace. The works of the most distinguished masters are 
 generally transferred to the Louvre about ten years after their 
 death. 
 
 The usual Entrance is opposite de The'atre de l'Odeon, by the 
 first door to the r. within the railing of the garden at the N.E. 
 end, whence a mean staircase is ascended. 
 
 With a few exceptions, the pictures are works of a high class, 
 but the sculptures are inferior. Each work has the name of the 
 artist attached. A few of the most interesting pictures are enu¬ 
 merated here, although many others are hardly less worthy of care¬ 
 ful inspection. It should be borne in mind that the collection is 
 always to some extent in a transitional state, new works being added 
 and the older removed. 
 
 Most of the sculptures are in a gallery on the ground-floor 
 (p. 190), but we shall visit the picture gallery first, which also con¬ 
 tains some statuary. 
 
188 
 
 ‘2‘2. PALAIS I)U LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 The changes in the position and numbering of the pictures are 
 so frequent that to prevent confusion we shall enumerate some of 
 the principal works in the alphabetical order of the names of the 
 artists, that being also the order in which they are numbered. As 
 the names are marked on the pictures in every case, and the saloons 
 are neither very large nor very numerous, the visitor will have little 
 difficulty in finding the works mentioned below. 
 
 The ceiling of the Grande Galerie, which is first entered, is 
 adorned with paintings. That in the centre, by Callet (1823), re¬ 
 presents the Rising of Aurora; the others, by Jordaens (d. 1678), a 
 pupil of Rubens, are the twelve months. 
 
 There are two small picture rooms adjoining this gallery, and 
 opposite the entrance is a corridor with drawings, portraits, eleva¬ 
 tions of buildings, etc., beyond which are several rooms containing 
 paintings, sculptures, cartoons, drawings, miniatures, and chalks. 
 
 Paintings. 
 
 1. Achard, Waterfall in the ravine of Cernay-la-Ville; 2. Achen- 
 bach, Fete at Genazzano; 3. Aliyny , Prometheus. 
 
 12. Baudry , Fortune and the child; 14. BMange , Review 
 under the Plmpire; *17. Belly , Pilgrims going to Mecca; *18. 
 Benouville , St. Francis of Assisi blessing the town of Assisi before 
 his death; *27. Rosa Bonheur , Agriculture in Nivernais; 28. 
 Bouguereau , Philomela and Procne ; 29. Brascassat , Landscape 
 and cattle; Breton, *32. Blessing the crops , *33. Recal of the 
 gleaners; Brian, 35. Pilgrims of St. Ottilia in Alsace, 36. End of 
 the-deluge ; 37. Busson, Shooting in the fens of the Berri. 
 
 Cabanel, Death of Romeo and Juliet; Cabat, 38. PondatVille 
 d’Avray, near Sevres, 39. Autumn evening; 41. Chasseriau, 
 Tepidarium, or bath-room; 49. Comte, Henri III. and the Due de 
 Guise; 50. Corot, Landscape ; 52. Couder, The Levite of Ephraim ; 
 53. Couture, Romans of the period of decline ; 54. Curzon, Psyche. 
 
 Daubigny, 58. Lock in the valley of Optevaz, in the Isere, 59. 
 Spring; 60. Dauzats, Monastery of St. Catherine on Mt. Sinai; 
 Decamps, 62. Saul, 63. The Caravan, two sketches; 64. Dehodencq, 
 Bull race in Spain ; Delacroix, *65. Dante and Virgil in the infernal 
 regions (crossing the Styx under the escort of Phlegyas ; among the 
 guilty shades who endeavour to enter the boat, Dante recognises 
 Florentines) , 66. Scene from the massacres of Scio in 1822, 68. 
 Algerian harem, 69. Jewish wedding in Morocco; P. Delaroche, 
 70. Death of Queen Elizabeth, 71. Children of Edward; Desgoffe, 
 75, 76. Vases of amethyst and rock crystal (16th cent.); 77. Desjo- 
 bert, Landscape painters; 78. Mme Desnos , Portrait of a woman ; 
 79. Deveria, Birth of Henri IV. 
 
 H. Flandrin, 88. Study, 89. Portrait of a girl; 96. Frantais, 
 Orpheus; 98. Fromentin, Hawking. 
 
 Gerome, Cock fight; 106. Fug. Qiraud, Dance at a ‘posada’ in 
 
22. PALAJS DU LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 189 
 
 Grenada; 108. V. Giraud , Slave market; 111. Gleyre , Evening; 
 Gudin , 114. Squall in the roads of Algiers in 1831, 115. Burning 
 of the ‘Kent’; 116. Guillaumet, Evening prayer in the Saharah. 
 
 Hebert, 120. The malaria, 122. Les Cervaroles (Italy); 124. 
 Heilbuth, The Mont-de-piete ; Heim , 125. Scene from Josephus' 
 History of the Jews , 126. Charles X. distributing rewards ; 127. 
 Huet, Inundation. 
 
 Ingres , 133. Christ giving St. Peter the keys of heaven ; 133. 
 Ruggiero releasing Angelica, from Ariosto ; 134. Portrait of Cheru¬ 
 bini; 135. Apotheosis of Homer, painted for the ceiling of the 
 Galerie du Bord de l’Eau in the Louvre (p. 105); 137. Birth of 
 Venus Anadyomene; 138. The spring. 
 
 142. Isabey, Embarkation of admirals de Ruyter and de Witt; 
 143. Jacque, Landscape with flock of sheep. 
 
 157. Larivibre, The plague at Rome in the pontificate of Pope 
 Nicholas V.; 158. Lauyee, Eustaehe Lesueur with the Carthusians ; 
 160. Lazerges, Descent from the Cross; 162. Lefebvre, Nymph and 
 Bacchus; 164. Lehmann , Distress of the Oceanides; 165. Ad. 
 Leleux, Wedding in Brittany ; 168. Lenepveu . Martyrs in the cata¬ 
 combs; 169. Eug. Leroux , The new-born infant, an interior in 
 Lower Brittany. 
 
 Marchal, 173. Choral of Luther, 174. Hiring market at Boux- 
 viller in Alsace; 175. Matout , Woman of Boghari killed by a 
 lioness; Meissonnier, 176. Napoleon III. at Solferino, *177. The 
 emperor and his staff; 181. Montessuy, The Madonna of Cervara 
 (Italy); *184. Muller , Summons of the last victims of the Reign of 
 Terror. 
 
 190. Philippoteaux , Louis XV. visiting the battle field of 
 Fontenoy. 
 
 Regnault, 195. Portrait of General Prim, 196. Execution at 
 Grenada; Robert-Fleury , 299. Conference at Poissy in 1561 , 200. 
 Jane Shore, 201. Pillage of a house in the Giudecca at Venice in 
 the middle ages; 205. Roqueplan, Coast scene in Normandy; Ph. 
 Rousseau , 207. The importunate, 208. Storks asleep, 209. Kid 
 browsing ; 210. Th. Rousseau, Egress of the forest at Fontainebleau. 
 
 Saint Jean, 214. Notre Dame des Roses, 215. Flowers among 
 the ruins, 216. The harvest; Ary Scheffer, 217. Death of Geri- 
 cault, 218. Souliote women, 219. Eberhard Count ofWurtemberg, 
 surnamed the Growler; Schnetz, 220. Scene from an inundation, 
 221. Vow to the Madonna; *205. Sclireyer , Artillery charge at 
 Traktir in the Crimea; 227. Signol, The woman taken in adultery. 
 
 229. Tassaert, A distressed family; 231. Tissot , Meeting of 
 Faust and Marguerite; 235. Troyon, Return to the farm. 
 
 H.Vernet, *237. Barrier of Clichy in 1814, with Marshal Moncey 
 and the national guard opposing the Russians, 238. Raphael at 
 the Vatican; 240. Vetter, Moliere and Louis XIV. 
 
 246. Ziem, View of Venice. 
 
190 
 
 19. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 Sculptures. 
 
 Aizelin, Psyche. 
 
 Barryas , Girl of Megara ; 297. Barye , Jaguar devouring a hare 
 (on the 1st floor); 299. Bonnassieux, Meditation; Bourgeois, The 
 Pythia of Delphi. 
 
 303. Carrier-Belleuse, Hebe asleep; Cavelier, 304. Truth, 306. 
 Mother of the Gracchi; 307. Chapu, Joan of Arc ; 308. Clesinger , 
 Roman bull; 309. Crauk , Bacchante and satyr. 
 
 311. Delorme , First attempt; Dubois, 312. John the Baptist 
 when a child, 313. Florentine singer; 315. Dumont, Leucothea 
 and the young Bacchus ; Duret, *317. Neapolitan fisherman dan¬ 
 cing the tarantella, 318. The Improvisatore on a comic theme. 
 
 Falguiere, 319. Christian martyr, 320. Victorious cock. 
 
 326. Gatteaux, Minerva after the Judgment of Paris (1st floor); 
 328. Guillaume, Anacreon; G. Guitton, The passer-by (1st floor). 
 
 331. Hiolle, Arion on the dolphin. 
 
 332. Iselin, Boileau. 
 
 333. Jaley, The prayer (1st floor); 335. Jouffroy, Girl confiding 
 her first secret to Venus. 
 
 336. Leharivel-Durocher, Being and seeming; Leroux, Violet 
 girl (in the corridor on the 1st floor). 
 
 340. Maillet, Agrippina and Caligula; 344. Marcellin , Bac¬ 
 chante; 347. A. Millet, Ariadne; Moreau, Spinner (1st floor), 
 Aristophanes; 351. Moulin, Discovery of antiquities at Pompeii 
 (in the corridor, 1st floor). 
 
 352. Nanteuil, Eurydice. 
 
 353. Oliva , Rembrandt, a bust in bronze (1st floor). 
 
 Perraud, 355. Childhood of Bacchus (1st floor), 356. Despair; 
 
 357. Pollet, An hour of the night. 
 
 358. Salmson, Skein winder. 
 
 361. Trupheme, Girl at the spring. 
 
 Drawings. Among the most interesting are designs by Ingres 
 for the stained glass in the Chapelle de Dreux and the Chapelle de 
 St. Ferdinand at Neuilly (p. 127). St. Ferdinand and St. Helena 
 are represented with the features of the Duke and Duchess of 
 Orleans. There are also five studies by Flandrin for the paintings 
 in St. Germain-des-Pres (p. 210). 
 
 Miniatures. Among these, three portraits of Abd-el-Kader by 
 David deserve mention. 
 
 The * Garden of the Luxembourg, on the S. side of the 
 palace, open daily till 10 or 11 in summer, and till 6 in winter, 
 contains well-kept flower-beds and pleasant, shady walks. It 
 is generally entered by the same gate as that leading to the 
 Musde, to the 1. of the facade of the palace. Opposite this gate is 
 the theatre of the Odeon (p. 45), built in 1818, a heavy and 
 unattractive edifice, with a Doric portico on the other side. The 
 
22. PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 191 
 
 interior is well fitted up , and the chandelier is particularly hand¬ 
 some. The galleries outside the building are occupied by book, 
 music, and newspaper stalls. 
 
 In the garden, not far from the gate, to the 1., rises the handsome 
 * Fontaine de Medicis, by Debrosse, in the Doric style, with imita¬ 
 tions of stalactites. Three niches between the columns are filled 
 with sculptures by Ottin , among which the group in the middle 
 represents Polyphemus surprising Acis and Galatea. Above are 
 river-gods emptying their urns. This fountain has two fronts, a 
 ‘Fontaine de Leda’ having been added to it on the side next the Rue 
 de Mddicis. 
 
 To the 1. of the long basin of the fountain is a group in marble 
 of Adam and his family, by Garraud. 
 
 In the centre of the garden, in front of the palace, are extensive 
 flower-beds enclosed by slopes with balustrades, and embellished 
 with a large basin in the middle with a group of children and a 
 fountain. Beside this basin rise two columns in speckled Italian 
 marble, surmounted by a David, the conqueror of Goliath, and a 
 Nymph, Italian work of the 16th century. We observe also an 
 Archidamas about to throw the disc, by Lemaire , and copies of the 
 Borghese Gladiator and the Diana of Versailles. The terraces sur¬ 
 rounding the parterre are embellished with twenty modern statues 
 in marble, representing celebrated women connected with the 
 history of France. Then, farther to the E., a fine statue of Velleda, 
 the Germanic prophetess (A. D. 70), by Maindron. 
 
 In summer a military band plays in one of the central parterres 
 daily from 5 to 6 p. m. 
 
 The dome-covered building visible at the end of the avenue 
 leading from the basin is the Observatory (see below). Towards the 
 E. rises the dome of the Pantheon (p. 192), and towards the W., 
 in the direction of the palace, the two towers of St. Sulpice (p. 208j 
 are observed. To the r. on the way towards the Observatory is a 
 pretty ‘jardin anglais’, occupying the site of the old ‘pe'piniere’, or 
 nursery, and to the 1. is the new Orangery, beyond which rises the 
 Ecole des Mines, entered from the Boulevard St. Michel. 
 
 The garden has of late been considerably reduced in extent. 
 The triangle which it originally formed has been intersected about 
 two-thirds of the way towards the apex by a broad road which 
 connects two quarters formerly separated by the garden, and the 
 remainder of the triangle will probably be sold for building pur¬ 
 poses. The Avenue de l’Observatoire, however, has been reserved 
 and converted into a promenade flanked with trees and adorned with 
 statuary. This avenue is also intersected by a transverse road. 
 About halfway down the avenue, at the point where the garden 
 formerly terminated, is the Carrefour de l’Observatoire, a Pla< e 
 in which a fountain is now being erected. On the farther side of 
 this square rises the — 
 
192 
 
 23. THE PANTHEON. 
 
 Statue of Marshal Ney, in bronze, designed by Rude, erected 
 in 1853, and bearing a record of the battles at which Ney was 
 present. It stands on the spot where the marshal was shot on 7th 
 Dec., 1815, in execution of the sentence pronounced by the Chamber 
 of Peers on the previous evening. The statue is not a successful 
 work, the action being too violent, and the open mouth unpleasing. 
 The prolongation of the avenue leads to the — 
 
 Observatoire, a celebrated institution, founded in 1672. Visit¬ 
 ors are only admitted by permission of the director, which is not 
 easily obtained. The meridian of Paris runs through the centre of 
 the building. The dome, which is42ft. in diameter, is constructed 
 so as to revolve round its vertical axis when required. 
 
 23. The Pantheon. 
 
 Library of Sle. Genevibve. St. Etienne du Mont. 
 
 The * Pantheon stands on the site of an ancient church erected 
 in honour of Ste. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, who was 
 interred here in 512. The present church was designed by 
 Soufflot, the foundation-stone laid by Louis XV. in 1764, and 
 the building completed in 1790. Is was also dedicated to Ste. 
 Genevieve, but in 1791 the Convention resolved to convert it 
 into a kind of temple, gave it the name of ‘Pantheon’, and 
 furnished it with the inscription, l Aux grands homines la patrie 
 reconnaissante'. These words were erased in 1822, but renewed 
 in 1830 after the July Revolution , and still retain their place, 
 notwithstanding a decree of 1851, by which the edifice was restored 
 to its sacred use under its original name of ‘EgliseSt. Oenevieve’. 
 The building is cruciform in shape, but otherwise hardly resembles 
 a church. 
 
 The Pantheon is one of the most imposing buildings in Paris, 
 and stands on a slight eminence commanding the whole city. It is 
 a good example of the Graeco-Itoman style of architecture, although 
 in some respects open to criticism. The building is cruciform, the 
 arms to the r. and 1. of the facade being shorter than the others. 
 The facade, turned towards the W., consists of a large portico of 22 
 Corinthian columns, 65 ft. in height and 7 ft. in circumference, 
 disposed in three rows and rising from a platform approached by 
 eleven steps. Including the colonnade, the church is 123 yds. in 
 length and 92 yds. in width externally. The arms of the cross, 
 80 ft. in height, are plain and almost without ornament, serving as 
 a kind of pedestal for the majestic dome in the centre. This central 
 structure consists of a base, 50 ft. in height, bearing a kind of 
 circular temple environed by 32 Corinthian columns, terminated by 
 a gallery, above which rises the dome, 75 ft. in diameter, and, 
 including the lantern with its ten columns at the summit, about 
 80 ft. in height. 
 
23. THE PANTHEON. 
 
 193 
 
 The *Pediment above the portico, 117 ft. in length and 23 ft. 
 in height, contains a fine group by David d'Angers. The princi¬ 
 pal figure, 16 ft. in height, represents France distributing gar¬ 
 lands to her sons; to the 1., under the protection of Liberty, are 
 the illustrious civilians Malesherbes, Mirabeau, Monge, and Fe'neTon ; 
 then Manuel, Carnot, the celebrated general of engineers and 
 chief leader of the wars of the first Revolution, Iierthollet, the 
 chemist, and Laplace, the mathematician. A second row consists 
 of the painter David, Cuvier, Lafayette, Voltaire, Rousseau, and 
 the physician Bichat. To the r., beside the figure of History, 
 are soldiers of the Republic and of the Empire, among them 
 Bonaparte, as leader of the Italian army; behind him a stern 
 old grenadier leaning on his musket, emblematic of discipline, 
 and the celebrated young drummer of Arcole as the representative 
 of youthful audacity. In the two angles of the pediment are pupils 
 and students of the Ecole Polytechnique. 
 
 Under the portico are placed two groups in sandstone by 
 Maindron, representing Ste. Genevieve imploring Attila, the leader 
 of the Huns, to spare the city of Paris; and the Baptism of the 
 Franconian king Clovis by St. Remigius. 
 
 For the ascent of the dome (see below) and the inspection 
 of the vaults two tickets must be procured here, the former 
 costing 30, the latter 50 c. One of the custodians in the 1. aisle 
 will show the way. 
 
 The church is entered by three handsome bronze doors. The 
 interior consists of a spacious rotunda, flanked by a gallery 
 supported by Corinthian columns. Notwithstanding the imposing 
 dimensions of the dome, it is not so effective as it was intended 
 to be. Soufflot, the architect, is said to have died of chagrin 
 (1781) on finding that the weight of the superstructure was too 
 great for the columns destined to support it. Rondelet, his suc¬ 
 cessor, before proceeding with the work, was obliged to substitute 
 pillars, connected by massive arches, for the original columns. The 
 dome consists of three concentric sections, one above the other, the 
 second of which is adorned with paintings by Oros. The paintings 
 on the pendentives, by Gerard (d. 1837), represent Death, France, 
 Justice, and Glory. The frescoes of the hemicycle above the high 
 altar are, on the r., Christ pronouncing a blessing, with St. Peter 
 and St. Germain, and on the 1. St. Paul and St. Genevieve. The 
 altar in the chapel of St. Genevieve in the r. transept is surmounted 
 by four angels bearing a reliquary, designed by Pillon. The copies 
 of Raphael’s Stanze which were formerly here are now preserved in 
 the gallery of copies (p. 216) 
 
 The stair ascending to the Dome (11—5 o’clock only; ad¬ 
 mission, see above) is in the left transept. The top of the first 
 section of the dome is reached by 328 steps, and we now have 
 an opportunity of inspecting the oil-paintings in the second 
 
 Bjedeker. Paris. 4th Edition. 13 
 
194 
 
 23. THE PANTHEON. 
 
 section by Gros (d. 1835), executed in 1824, for which the artist 
 received from Louis XVIII. a remuneration of 100,000 fr., being 
 double the sum originally fixed, and the title of baron. This 
 fine composition, which covers a superficies of 3150 sq. ft., 
 represents Ste. Genevieve receiving homage from Clovis, the first 
 Christian monarch of France , and Charlemagne, St. Louis, and 
 Louis XVIII. Above are Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis 
 XVII., and Madame Elisabeth, the victims of the Revolution. 
 
 A farther ascent of 94 steps leads to the gallery above the 
 colonnade, which commands a magnificent and extensive prospect, 
 but less picturesque than the views from the Tour St. Jacques 
 and Notre Dame, as the Seine is not visible hence. 
 
 The entrance to the Vaults (Caveaux; 11—4'^ o’clock; ad¬ 
 mission, see above) is behind the high altar. They are supported 
 by 20 pillars, and divided by partitions of masonry. Mirabeau 
 was the first person whose remains were deposited here (1791). 
 Near him was placed Marat , the most furious of the Jacobins, 
 who fell on 13th July, 1793, by the hand of Charlotte Corday. 
 Afterwards, however, both the bodies were removed by order of 
 the Convention, that of Mirabeau being reinterred in the cemetery 
 of Pere Lachaise, while the remains of Marat were ignominiously 
 cast into the sewers of the Rue Montmartre, near the Passage 
 du Saumon of the present day. 
 
 About the same period two painted wooden sarcophagi, 
 were erected here as monuments to Voltaire and Rousseau. 
 The former, dedicated l aux manes de Voltaire', with a statue 
 by Houdon, bears the inscription: ‘■Poete, historien , philosophe, 
 il agrandit l’esprit humain et lui apprit quit devait etre libre. 
 II defendit Galas, Sirven , de la Barre et Montbailly; combuttit 
 les athees et les fanatiques; il inspira la tolerance; il reclama 
 les droits de I'homme contre la servitude de la feodalite . On the 
 sarcophagus of Rousseau is painted a hand with a burning torch, 
 a somewhat inappropriate emblem of the ‘light’ which the philo¬ 
 sopher diffused around him, with the inscription : l Ici repose I’homme 
 de la nature et de la verite . Both these tombs are, however, empty, 
 the remains of the two philosophers having been secretly removed 
 after the Restoration, and interred in some unknown spot. 
 
 Opposite the tomb of Voltaire is that of Soufflot (d. 1781), 
 the architect of the Pantheon. 
 
 Napoleon I. also caused several of the most eminent men of 
 his time to be interred here, among whom may be mentioned 
 Lagrange, the mathematician, Bougainville , the circumnavigator, 
 Marshall Lannes, and a number of senators. In the centre of 
 these vaults a remarkably loud echo may be awakened by the 
 faintest sound. A model of the edifice in plaster of Paris is 
 also shown. 
 
 The Pantheon was the head-quarters of the insurgents in June, 
 
23. THE TANTHEON. 
 
 195 
 
 1848, and was also one of the principal points occupied by the 
 Communists in 1871, and on both occasions the barricades in the 
 neighbourhood were only stormed by the troops after a severe struggle. 
 The church, however, sustained little damage. 
 
 Opposite the portico, a little to the 1. as the church is quit¬ 
 ted, is situated the Mairie du 5 e Arrondissement , erected in 1849, 
 and on the other side the Ecole de Droit (p. 200), erected by 
 Soufflot, the architect of the Pantheon. The lectures are public. 
 Vacation in September and October. 
 
 On the N. side of the square is situated a long building 
 completed by Labrouste in 1850, which contains the -— 
 
 Library of Ste. Genevieve. On the walls are inscribed a long 
 series of names of celebrated authors of all nations. The letters S. G. 
 which frequently recur in the medallions, are the initials of Ste. 
 Genevifeve. 
 
 The vestibule contains busts of St. Bernard, Montaigne, Pascal, 
 Moliere, Lafontaine, Bossuet, Massillon, Voltaire, Button, Laplace, 
 Cuvier, Mirabeau, Rousseau, Montesquieu, Fe'ne'lon, Racine, 
 Corneille, Poussin, Descartes, and L’Hopital; and a statue is to be 
 erected in the staircase to Gering, who in 1409 established at the 
 Sorbonne the first printing-press used in Paris. 
 
 The inscription over the staircase is as follows : Bibliotheque 
 Sainte Genevieve fondee par les Genovefains en 16'24, devenue 
 propriety nationale en 1790, transferee de L’ancienne abb aye dans 
 eet edifice en 1850. The wall of the staircase is adorned with a 
 copy by Blaze of Raphael’s School of Athens in the Vatican, and 
 medallions in fresco, emblematic of Science, Art, Theology, and 
 Jurisprudence. At the entrance to the hall is a tine piece of 
 Gobelins tapestry, representing Study surprised by night, after 
 Baize. 
 
 The *Readiny Room on the first floor, 330 ft. in length, 00 ft. 
 in width, and 42 ft. in height, is very skilfully constructed. The 
 vaulting is borne by seventeen iron girders, supported in the centre 
 by sixteen slender columns. The long rows of tables are ca¬ 
 pable of accommodating 420 readers. The library is open to the 
 public from 10 till 3 o’clock, and for students from 0 to 10 p. m. 
 
 The collection of books, which are judiciously arranged in 
 the upper, as well as in the lower apartments, was begun 
 by Cardinal La Rochefoucauld in 1624, and now consists of up¬ 
 wards of 200,000 printed books and 7000 MSS. Among the former 
 are a considerable number of ‘incunabula!’, or specimens of the 
 earliest printing, when the art w'as still ‘in ounabulis’, nearly 
 complete collections of Aldi and Elzevirs, and a valuable series 
 of periodicals from the 17th cent, down to the Empire. Vacation 
 from 1st Sept, to 15th Oct. 
 
 Near the library, in the direction of the Ecole de Droit, is 
 
 13* 
 
196 
 
 23. THE PANTHEON. 
 
 the entrance to the College St. Barbe , a public school of high 
 repute, and the oldest in France, having been founded in 1460. 
 
 At the N. E. corner of the Place du Panthdon rises the 
 church of — 
 
 *St. Etienne du Mont, an edifice in the late Gothic style, 
 but disfigured by a Renaissance portal. It was begun in 1517, dur¬ 
 ing the reign of Francis I., and in 1610 the W. portal was erected 
 by Margaret of Yalois, first wife of Henri IV. 
 
 The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, the latter un¬ 
 usually lofty; the columns are connected half way up by arches 
 which support the triforium. The rich and elaborate decorations 
 belong to the latest Gothic style, shortly before the transition to 
 the Renaissance. The lofty vaulting is supported by 24 graceful 
 round columns, from which spring the ribs terminating in pendent 
 key-stones. The choir is separated from the nave by a *Jube , or 
 screen, of exquisite workmanship, round the pillars of which 
 ascend two light spiral staircases, leading to the triforium. 
 
 In the S. aisle, near the choir, is the Tomb of Ste. Genevieve 
 (71. about 500), the patron saint of Paris. The sarcophagus is said 
 to date from the period of the death of the saint, but is 
 probably a work of the 13th century. The chapel containing it 
 was richly decorated with painted wood, carving, and gilding in 
 1862. 
 
 A chapel on the same side, the 5th from the entrance, contains 
 a life-size Entombment, in stone. 
 
 The Pulpit, designed by Lahire (d. 1655), is borne by a 
 Samson, adorned with numerous statuettes. 
 
 Most of the paintings are of the 18th cent.; but the S. chapels 
 contain some fine modern works by Grenier, Abel de Pujol, Aligny, 
 and Caminade. The stained glass dates from 1568. On the wall of 
 the S. aisle, before the chapel of Ste. Genevieve, are three large 
 pictures presented to the church by the city of Paris. One of those 
 above represents the Genius of France and the Parliament interced¬ 
 ing with Ste. Genevieve for the cessation of a famine; the other, 
 the Yow of the municipal functionaries to Ste. Genevieve. These 
 were both executed at the beginning of the 18th cent, by Largiliere, 
 the greatest French portrait-painter of his time. The picture 
 below, by A. de Pujol, represents the Preaching of St. Stephen. 
 
 On marble slabs are inscribed the names of illustrious personages 
 interred in this church, among others Pascal (d. 1662), and 
 Racine (d. 1699), but their remains have been removed. On 
 3rd January, 1857, Archbishop Sibour was assassinated here by an 
 ex-priest. 
 
197 
 
 24. Musee de Cluny, or des Thermos. 
 
 The Sorbonne. 
 
 This museum of Roman and Mediaeval Antiquities, entered by 
 No. 14, Kue Du Sommerard (formerly des Mathurins), in the new 
 Place des Ecoles, is open to the public on Sundays and holidays 
 from 11 to 4 ; and daily, except Mondays, from 11 to 4'/ 2 to 
 strangers provided with a passport or visiting-card. The catalogue, 
 which may be purchased at the door for 2 fr., is indispensable 
 for those who desire more than a superficial acquaintance with 
 this splendid collection. 
 
 The Roman Emperor Constantius Chlorus, who resided in Gaul 
 from 292 to 306, is believed to have been the founder of the 
 palace , of which the Thermes, or baths , still existing here, 
 formed a part. Julian was proclaimed emperor by his soldiers 
 here in 360; and the early Frank monarchs also resided in this 
 palace at a later period. 
 
 At the close of the 15th century the abbots of the wealthy 
 Benedictine Abbey of Cluny in Burgundy, who possessed extensive 
 landed property in Paris, but no suitable residence, caused a 
 small mansion , the Hotel de ('tuny of the present day, to be 
 erected on the site of the ancient Roman palace. This edifice 
 still retains its mediaeval exterior, and is a fine specimen of the 
 transitional style from Gothic to Renaissance. The abbots, who 
 seldom resided in Paris, placed their mansion at the disposal of 
 the kings of France, and it was accordingly occupied in 1515, 
 soon after its completion, by Mary, sister of Henry VIII. of 
 England, and widow of Louis XII. Her apartment is still termed 
 La Chambre de la Reine Blanche , it having been the custom of 
 the queens of France to wear white mourning. On 1st Jan., 1537, 
 the marriage of James V. of Scotland with Madeleine, daughter of 
 Francis 1., was celebrated here. 
 
 The first Revolution converted this estate into national property, 
 and in 1833 the Hotel de Cluny came into the possession of M. Du 
 Sommerard, an enthusiastic archaeologist, who fitted it up as a 
 museum. On his death in 1842 the edifice with its valuable 
 collections was purchased by government, and united with the 
 Roman Baths which had hitherto belonged to the municipality of 
 Paris. 
 
 The court of the building is entered by a large gate , or by a 
 postern under a low archw'ay, pierced in a pinnacled wall, and framed 
 with handsome sculptures. The principal building and the two 
 wings have picturesque windows with mullions,an open balustrade, 
 and dormers with admirably carved pediments. The facade is embel¬ 
 lished with a tower, and the left wing with four large arches. The 
 entrance to the gardens is in the right wing. 
 
 The Museum consists chiefly of Mediaeval Curiosities, most of 
 
198 
 
 24. MUS£e DES THERMES. 
 
 them belonging to the 14th—16th cent., and partly of Roman Anti¬ 
 quities, some of which are arranged in the Salle des Themes. The 
 total number of objects is about 4000 , of which a few of the most 
 interesting only need be mentioned here. If the numerous articles of 
 mediocre and inferior interest could be removed, the collection would 
 lose but little value, while its organisation and accessibility would be 
 greatly improved. As it is, the visitor is apt to become bewildered 
 and fatigued. The three rooms on the ground-floor contain objects 
 of less interest than those in the rooms upstairs. 
 
 2nd Room: 532. Bench of a refectory of the 15th cent.; 
 537. Another of the 16th cent.; 612. Chest of the 15th cent.; 
 104. Ariadne forsaken, with the features of Diana of Poitiers, a 
 statuette in marble, of the 16th cent. ; to the r., by the window, 
 keys of various periods. 
 
 3rd Room . 558. Large cabinet from a sacristy , 15th cent.; 
 588. Cabinet, 17th cent.; 590. Chest. 
 
 4th Room: 609. Veneered cabinet of Dutch workmanship, 
 17th cent.; 1817. Chimney piece, 16th cent.; 578. Chest, 
 16th cent. 
 
 Then two rooms containing a number of carriages and sledges. 
 The first also contains ecclesiastical vestments, of which the most 
 interesting is No. 2422, remains of episcopal robes, and erozier of 
 the 12th cent., found at Bayonne in 1853; then ancient weapons, 
 carved ivory, missals, musical instruments, stained glass, ancient 
 pictures, specimens of early printing, etc. 
 
 The stair leads first to a corridor with weapons, some of 
 which are historically interesting, as the labels indicate. 
 
 To the r. are two rooms containing porcelain and pottery 
 from Italy, Spain, and Germany, and the earliest French fayence, 
 of which the most interesting is by Bernhard de Palissy. 
 
 In the room opposite: 541. State-bed of the time of Francis I. ; 
 then miniatures, etc. 
 
 Next, Salle Du Sommerard, containing the bust of M. Dii 
 Sommerard. This room is set apart for works in precious 
 materials, ebony, ivory, paintings, etc. To the 1. in the central 
 glass cabinets, No. *1744. Chess-board and men of rock-crystal, 
 formerly the property of the crown, a German work of the 15th 
 century. The large glass case in the middle contains: 399. 
 Reliquary of the 12th cent.; 404, 419. Reliquaries, 14th cent. ; 
 502. Two lions’ heads of rock crystal, which, with the figure 
 No. 384. were found in a tomb on the Rhone, 3rd or 4th century. 
 By the window : 389. Ivory book-cover, 10th cent.; 1980. Ivory 
 altar-piece, 14th cent.; 406. Bas-relief in ivory, 14th century. 
 Then, 610. Cabinet with Florentine mosaics, middle of 17th cent. 
 
 In the following room are the enamels. Nos. 1000—1008. 
 Figures of gods and other personages, in enamelled copper, executed 
 
24. MUSfiE DES THERMES. 
 
 199 
 
 for the Chateau Madrid, which was erected for Francis I. in the Bois 
 de Boulogne; the enamelled plates, which are upwards of 3 ft. square, 
 are said to be the largest in existence. On the r. and 1. of the en¬ 
 trance: German and Venetian glasses of the 16th and 17th cen¬ 
 turies. In the glass case by the middle window: 1099. Miniature 
 enamelled altar, bearing the name and titles of Henri 11. and 
 Catharine de Medicis, 16th century. In the centre of the room, 
 episcopal croziers. No. 304. Sixty miniature wooden tigures, 
 representing the kings of France from Clovis to Louis XIII. 
 (d. 1643), carved during the reign of the latter. 
 
 The room before the last contains a number of very interesting 
 objects in gold, the most remarkable of which are preserved in the 
 glass-case in the centre: *3113—21. Nine Crowns of Gothic. 
 Kinys of Spain , found near Toledo, one of which bears the name 
 of King Recesvinthus (649—672), decorated with pearls, sapphires, 
 and other jewels. Then, 3103. Turquoise set in gold; 3104 — 
 3112. Nine pieces of gold plate, French workmanship. 
 
 In the glass-case on the r. : * 1329. Episcopal crozier, richly 
 gilded, and decorated with jewels and eight miniature reliquaries, 
 of which that in the centre contains a fragment of the ‘True Cross’. 
 
 In the glass-case on the ).: 3123. Golden Rose of Bale, pre¬ 
 sented by Clement V. to the Archbishop of Bale. By the wall: 
 *3122. Altar-piece 3 ft. in height, and 5 ft. in width, in embossed 
 gold, presented by Emp. Henry II. (d. 1024) to the cathedral of 
 Bale, and purchased along with the ‘Rose’ from the canton Bale- 
 Campagne in 1830. Then by one of the windows: 3138. Vessel 
 with Charles V. , surrounded by the dignitaries of his court, 
 musicians, and sailors, in gilded bronze, the emperor in massive 
 gold, all being automata; a work of the 16th century. 
 
 By the wall, in the corner to the r.: 3668, 3669. Russian 
 figures of saints, captured at Bomarsund in 1854. 
 
 Entrance-wall, in the middle: 3674. Jaw-bone of Molicre. 
 
 The last room contains French porcelain , comprising a large 
 chimney-piece in fayence from Lille. 
 
 From the 1st Room we proceed to the 1. to the Chambre de la 
 Heine Blanche (p. 197), containing a variety of musical instruments; 
 then to the sumptuous *Chapel, which was used as an audience- 
 chamber during the revolution, afterwards as a dissecting-room, 
 and finally as a printing-office. A stair descends hence to the 
 ground-floor and to the garden. 
 
 The court at the back of the building communicates with the 
 lofty vaulted chambers of the — 
 
 Thermes, or ruins of Roman Baths. The columns are adorned 
 in many places with the figure of the prow of a vessel, which 
 doubtless belonged to the arms of the ancient Roman city of 
 Lutetia Parisiorum , and probably gave rise to the ship in the 
 
200 
 
 20. MUSflE DES THERMES. 
 
 armorial bearings of modern Paris. The fact that this one hall, 
 which was the Frigidarium , or apartment for cold baths, is 65 ft. 
 in length, 37 ft. in breadth, and 56 ft. in height, will serve to 
 convey some idea of the vast extent of the ancient Roman palace. 
 Roman antiquities in stone and marble found at Paris are preserved 
 here, but they will probably interest scientific visitors only. Among 
 them may be mentioned altars of Jupiter found under the choir of 
 Notre Dame, and a statue of Julian, the Apostate, who was pro¬ 
 claimed emperor at this palace. 
 
 The Garden contains, among other curiosities, a Cross from the 
 Church of St. Vladimir at Sebastopol, presented by Marshal Pdlissier, 
 Duke of Malakoff; and architectural fragments, some of which have 
 been rescued from edifices demolished in the course of the metro¬ 
 politan improvements. 
 
 Ascending the street towards the S., opposite the Hotel de 
 Cluny, we soon reach the ■— 
 
 Sorbonne, or University of Paris, a building erected about 
 the middle of the 17th century, and the seat of the three faculties 
 of Roman Catholic theology, science, and literature. The lectures are 
 public. The great hall is capable of containing nearly 2000 persons. 
 
 The Sorbonne, which was originally a theological college only, 
 was founded by Robert de Sorbon, the confessor of Louis XI., in 
 1250. It enjoyed a high reputation during the middle ages, and 
 sometimes even ventured to defy the authority of the Pope, as, 
 for example, when it rejected the ‘Unigenitus’ bull. It after¬ 
 wards became the opponent of the Jesuits, and also of the school 
 of philosophy of the 18th cent. , whose sarcasms were usually 
 levelled at the Sorbonne. 
 
 The Church of the Sorbonne, facing the Place of that name, 
 dates from 1635, and is surmounted by a handsome dome. In the 
 interior are paintings by Ph. de Champaigne in the pendentives of 
 the dome, and others by Hesse. The chief object of interest, 
 however, is the monument of Richelieu, sculptured by Girardon. 
 On the opposite side of the Boulevard St. Michel is the modern 
 Lycee St. Louis. At the end of the street which skirts the Sorbonne 
 on the S. is the Lycee Louis le Grand, a school attended by 1400 
 pupils. 
 
 The Faculty of Law (p. 195) and that of Medicine occupy 
 buildings of their own. 
 
 The Ecole de Medecine is in the street of that name -which opens 
 nearly opposite the Thermes. The building dates from the close of 
 the 18th century. In front of the court runs an Ionic colonnade, 
 beyond which rises a Corinthian porch. In front of the latter stands 
 a bronze statue of Bichat (d. 1802). 
 
 The College de France , at the back of the Sorbonne , another 
 large educational institution , was founded by Francis I. in 1530. 
 
i)attW7)eA 
 
 5o ioo i5o soo 2S0 ooo l&txea 
 
25. JARDIN DES PLANTES. 
 
 201 
 
 Public lectures are given here gratuitously on languages, literature, 
 history, law, and other subjects. This establishment is not connected 
 with the university, but is under the direct control of the minister 
 of public instruction. It contains twenty-nine chairs, which have 
 frequently been occupied by professors of great eminence. 
 
 25. Jardin des Plantes. 
 
 The **Jardin des Plantes, or Museum d’Histoire Naturdie, is sit¬ 
 uated on the S.E. side of Paris, on the I. bank of the Seine, 
 opposite the Pont d’Austerlitz, and near the Gare d’Orleans (omnibus- 
 lines G, P, T, U, see p. 23). The garden, properly so called, 
 is open daily from an early hour till dusk, but the Menagerie, the 
 Collections , the Hothouses, and the Library are shown at certain 
 hours only. In each case the admission is gratuitous. 
 
 The Menagerie is open daily from 10 to 6 from April to August 
 inclusive, and from 11 to 4 during the rest of the year. It is, how¬ 
 ever , sometimes closed in very cold winter weather. Between 
 1 and 4 o’clock , when the animals are not in the open air , vi¬ 
 sitors are admitted to the buildings if provided with a ticket, 
 which may be obtained gratuitously on application and showing 
 a passport or visiting-card at the Bureau de l'Administration , at 
 the foot of the Labyrinth, near the S. entrance, and is available 
 for four persons. A ticket is also necessary for admission to the 
 Feeding of the beasts of prey, which takes place at 3. 45 or 3. 15 
 p. m. according to the season. 
 
 The Collections of comparative anatomy, zoology, botany, geology, 
 and mineralogy are open to the public on Tuesdays and Thursdays 
 from 2 to 5, on Sundays from 1 to 5, but in winter till 3 or 4 only ; 
 also on Thursdays and Saturdays from 11 to 2 to persons provided 
 with tickets from the office of management (see above). 
 
 The Hothouses are not shown except by special permission. 
 
 The Library is open daily from 10 to 3, except on Sundays. Near 
 the botanical gallery is a Cafe, in front of which stands the oldest 
 acacia in Europe, the tree having been planted by Robin, the 
 gardener of Louis XIII., who introduced it from America, and after 
 whom it was called Robinia Pseuducacia. — Restaurants near the 
 Jardin des Plantes, see p. 15. 
 
 Almost everything connected with natural science is con¬ 
 centrated in the Jardin des Plantes, which comprises a botanical 
 and zoological garden, a laboratory, library, and a number of val¬ 
 uable collections. The lectures on natural history, to which the 
 public are admitted gratuitously, are delivered in the Amphitheatre, 
 a hall capable of containing 1200 persons. Lists of the lectures, 
 which comprise zoology, physiology, anatomy, chemistry, physical 
 science , mineralogy , geology , and botany, and are given by a 
 staff of about 15 professors, are generally posted tip at the en- 
 
202 
 
 25. JARDIN DES PLANTES. 
 
 trances of the garden and of the amphitheatre. Among the scientific 
 men of European celebrity who have received their education here 
 may be mentioned the eminent botanists de Jussieu (Bernard d. 
 1776, Laurent d. 1836, Adrien d. 1853), the mineralogists Dau- 
 benton (d. 1799) and Hauy (d. 1822), and the zoologists Buffon 
 (d. 1788), Lacepede (d. 1826), Cuvier (d. 1832), and Geoffroy 
 St. Hilaire (d. 1844). 
 
 The project of laying out the Jardfn des Plantes was first 
 formed in 1626, and it was at length carried into execution 
 by Buy de Labrosse in 1635. In 1732 the celebrated Buffon 
 was appointed director of the gardens, and was the originator 
 of all the collections connected with them. He died here in July 
 1788, while in the zenith of his reputation. 
 
 His successor was Bernardin de St. Pierre , who caused the 
 animals kept in the menageries of Versailles and Rainey to be 
 transferred in 1794 to the 'Jardin du Roi’, which was thence¬ 
 forward named the Museum d’Histoire Naturelle. 
 
 Under Napoleon I., who was a great promoter of the study 
 of natural science, the collections were considerably enlarged.. 
 In 1805 Humboldt presented a collection of 4500 tropical 
 plants, brought by him from America, 3000 of which belonged 
 to species hitherto unknown. To his intercession the garden was 
 indebted for its preservation from injury on the entrance of the 
 Allies into Paris in 1814. During the siege of Paris by 
 the Prussians in 1870—71 , the garden suffered seriously in 
 various respects. Ambulances were at that time, as well as 
 afterwards under the Commune, established here, and when the 
 citizens were driven to extremities by famine, the authorities 
 directed a number of the animals to be sold to the butchers. 
 
 The Jardin des Plantes (comp, annexed Plan) covers an area of 
 75 acres, and is of an irregular quadrilateral form. On the N. E. 
 side, next the Seine, it is bounded by the Quai St. Bernard and 
 the Place Walhubert, where the principal entrance is situated; 
 on the S. E. by the Rue de Buffon ; on the S. W. by the Rue 
 Qeoffroy St. Hilaire , which is prolonged towards the N. by the 
 Rue Linne (formerly St. Victor) ; and on the N. W. by the Rue 
 Cuvier. The gardens are divided into three parts. (1) The Jardin 
 Botanique begins at the principal entrance and extends to the Ca¬ 
 binet de Mine'ralogie at the other end. (2) The Vallee Suisse, to 
 the r. of the first, is the part containing the zoological department, 
 having an entrance of its own on the quay. (3) The Haute Par- 
 tie , or pleasure garden, forms the N. W. corner of the enclosure, 
 and contains an eminence, about 80 ft. in height, called the La- 
 byrintlie. 
 
 Visitors generally enter the gardens from the quay, and as the 
 second of these three parts is the most frequented, we shall de¬ 
 scribe it first. Those who enter from the Rue Limit? will have no 
 
25. JARDIN DES PLANTES. 
 
 203 
 
 difficulty in finding their way with the aid of the plan. The office 
 where tickets are procured, as already mentioned, is at the foot of 
 the Labyrinthe. 
 
 Menagerie (hours, tickets, etc., see above). Entering the gardens 
 by the gate at the corner of the Quai St. Bernard and the Rue Cu¬ 
 vier, we follow the central avenue, leading to the cages of the Ani- 
 maux Feroces, which are generally to be seen in the outer enclos¬ 
 ures. The names of the animals, as well as those of the plants, etc., 
 and their place of origin are marked in each case. 
 
 Farther W. is the Palais ties Singes, to which an admiring 
 crowd is always attracted by the droll gestures and tricks of the 
 inmates. 
 
 Th e Animaux Paisibles, which ad join the monkeys, occupy four¬ 
 teen enclosures, divided into compartments for each species. The 
 principal building here is the llotonde for the larger animals, such 
 as elephants, hippopotami, and dromedaries, which are another great 
 source of attraction. The appetite of the elephants is so unbounded 
 as speedily to exhaust the gifts of even their most generous ad¬ 
 mirers. 
 
 The Fosse aux Ours, or bears' den , near the Rotonde , and ad¬ 
 joining the botanical garden, is also very popular with the frequen¬ 
 ters of the garden; for \YIartin' not only enjoys an excellent appe¬ 
 tite, but understands and obeys the commands, ‘k 1’arbre !’ ‘fais le 
 beau !’ 
 
 To the W. of the rotunda, beyond the brook which traverses the 
 Valle'e Suisse, are the cages of the Birds of Prey on the r. ; the 
 Grande Voliire. or large aviary, on the 1.; and the Reptiles be¬ 
 yond them. 
 
 To the S. of these we pass the Cabinet d'Anatomie, mentioned 
 below, leave a large hothouse to the 1., and reach the Amphitheatre, 
 or lecture-hall, and the Office of the Administration. 
 
 The Labyrinthe, as the artificial mound at the N. W. corner of 
 the garden is called, is planted with carefully kept hedges, and 
 intersected by numerous paths. It has been formed almost en¬ 
 tirely of rubbish collected from the neighbouring Quartier St. Vic¬ 
 tor, and is surmounted by an iron pavilion termed the Oloriette. 
 the extensive view from which towards Montmartre, Vincennes, 
 and Sceaux, is somewhat obstructed by the trees. 
 
 On the E. slope of the hill is a magnificent cedar of Le¬ 
 banon, 10 ft. in circumference, planted here in 173") by the elder 
 Jussieu, who is said to have brought it home in his hat. At the 
 foot of the slope is a monument to the memory of Daubenton (d. 
 1799), an eminent naturalist and director of the Jardin des 
 Plantes. 
 
 A gate of the garden beyond the labyrinth leads into the Rue 
 Linne, at the corner of which and the Rue Cuvier rises the 
 Fontaine Cuvier, erected in 1840. A niche contains a statue of 
 
204 
 
 25. JARDIN DES PLANTES. 
 
 Nature sitting on a lion, and holding a tablet with the inscrip¬ 
 tion 'rerum cognosce re causas\ At the foot of this statue are 
 animals of all kinds and at the foot of the pedestal are three 
 water-spouting serpents’ heads in bronze. 
 
 Collections (hours, etc., see p. 201'). The Gallery of Compar¬ 
 ative Anatomy and Anthropology is in a building on the r. 
 on our way from the me'nagerie to the labyrinth , a little before 
 we reach the ‘amphitheatre’. It consists of fifteen apartments, 
 containing one of the most complete collections in existence of 
 human and other skeletons, skulls, anatomical preparations, mon¬ 
 strosities, fetuses in spirit, casts of heads, including those of cel¬ 
 ebrated criminals, such as Cartouche who was beheaded in 1721 ; 
 masks of the features of great musicians, and of Voltaire, Rous¬ 
 seau, and others. The court contains several interesting skele¬ 
 tons of cetaceous animals, the most conspicuous of which is that 
 of a whale with all its ‘whalebone’ complete. 
 
 The Gallery of Zoology is established in a building 137 yds. 
 in length, adjoining the Rue Geoffroy St. Hilaire, to thel. of the 
 labyrinth when approached from the menagerie, and at the end 
 of the botanic garden. The entrance is in the centre. Not¬ 
 withstanding its spacious dimensions the building can with diffi¬ 
 culty contain the numerous collections of this museum. 
 
 The Library , and the Geological, Botanical, and Mineralogical 
 Collections are arranged in a third building, 193 yds. in length, 
 lower down, adjoining the Rue de Buffon, to the r. as we de¬ 
 scend from the zoological collection towards the Seine. 
 
 The Library contains about 60,000 vols. and a valuable col¬ 
 lection of MSS. and original drawings. 
 
 The Gallery of Geology has a vestibule adorned with a large 
 painting of scenes from the Arctic regions, and the walls of the hall 
 itself are also embellished with pictures: W., the Limestone 
 cliffs of the Eletschberg, the Fall of the Staubbach near Lauter- 
 brunnen, and Alluvial land formed by the Aare between Meirin- 
 gen and Brienz; E., the Rosenlaui Glacier in the Bernese Ober- 
 larul, Eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 1822, the Volcanic island of 
 Stromboli (Lipari Islands), and Basaltic lava near the waterfall of 
 Quereil in the Department of Puy de Dome. There is also a 
 relief plan here of the island of Reunion, executed in 1845—52; 
 a statue of Yermak, ‘conque'rant de la Sibe'rie’, in Siberian gra¬ 
 phite. In the centre of the hall a statue of Cuvier in marble, 
 by David d’Angers. The greater part of this collection is arranged 
 in glass cases in two rows, placed one above the other. 
 
 At the entrance to the Botanical Department is a statue of 
 Adrien de Jussieu, by Hdral. This collection is similar to that 
 at Kew , consisting of specimens of wood, bark, roots, fruit, 
 fossil plants, wax models of fungi, executed by Pinson, presented 
 
26. THE GOBELINS. 
 
 205 
 
 to Charles X. by the Emperor of Austria, huge trunks of palm- 
 trees, and various other curiosities. 
 
 The Botanic Garden, which is intersected by a handsome triple 
 avenue of lime and chestnut-trees, is one of the pleasantest pro¬ 
 menades in Paris. Edible herbs are denoted by green labels, me¬ 
 dical plants by red, poisonous plants by black, those employed 
 in dyeing by blue, and ornamental plants by yellow. 
 
 The Pepinitre, or tree-nursery, occupies the whole S. E. side 
 of the garden. 
 
 26. The Gobelins. 
 
 Le Val de Or Ace. Deaf and Dumb Institution. 
 
 The ‘Manufactures de tapisseries des Gobelins el de tapis de 
 la Savonnerie' (PL, blue, 7, 9), in the Avenue des Gobelins, 
 formerly Hue Mouffetard, was almost entirely destroyed on 25th 
 May, 1871 , having been set on fire by the insurgents after they 
 had been driven from the position they occupied at La Butte-aux- 
 Cailles in the vicinity. Some of the most valuable pieces of tapestry 
 in the collection preserved here had been removed to a place of 
 safety before the war, but no fewer than seventy pieces were 
 destroyed. This establishment was formerly considered one of the 
 chief sights of Paris, and although now in a sadly crippled condition, 
 is still worthy of a visit, especially if the traveller happens to be 
 in this neigh- bourhood. Distance from the Pantheon 1 M., from 
 the Jardin des Plantes y 2 M. The manufacture of the tapestry 
 is still carried on in the same way as before, and there are 
 about 32 works now exhibited. 
 
 Admission on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 1 to 3 or 4 
 o’clock, according to the season. No permission necessary as for¬ 
 merly, but visitors write their names in a book. Catalogue and 
 historical notice, 50 c. 
 
 At the S.E. end of Paris, on the 1. bank of the Seine, the 
 Bievre brook skirts the city , and falls into the Seine above the 
 Pont d’Austerlitz. For several centuries its water has been 
 considered peculiarly adapted for dyeing purposes. In 1450 Jean 
 Gobelin erected a dyeing establishment on its banks, and with 
 this his successors combined a manufactory of tapestry. 
 
 These manufacturers had acquired such a high reputation 
 by the middle of the 17th cent., that Colbert, the minister of 
 Louis XIV., and a great patron of industrial enterprise, bought 
 the establishment in 1682 and carried it on at the expense of gov¬ 
 ernment. After the lapse of years, however, the manufactory 
 was found to yield profits totally inadequate to the expense of its 
 maintenance. It was therefore reserved thenceforward for the 
 exclusive supply of the family of the reigning monarch with the 
 choicest fabrics which art could produce. Its manufactures were 
 
“206 
 
 26. THE GOBELIN,S. 
 
 also presented as gifts to foreign courts, ambassadors, and other 
 persons of high rank, hut were not permitted to come into the 
 public market. 
 
 The same rules are still observed, and the same remarks 
 apply to the Savonnerie , a carpet manufactory founded in 1604 
 by Marie de Medicis, so named from having been originally estab¬ 
 lished in a soap manufactory, but transferred in 1826 to the 
 same building as the Gobelins. 
 
 The workmen employed in these establishments receive 
 1000—3000 fr. each per annum , and those of the Gobelins not 
 unreasonably style themselves ‘artistes-ouvriers’. 
 
 Work of this description requires the utmost patience and 
 the most practised eye, although there is little scope for originality, 
 the object being simply to imitate paintings and other designs 
 accurately. An area of 6 sq. inches is the average daily task 
 of each workman. Many years are therefore sometimes re¬ 
 quisite for the execution of the larger designs, which when com¬ 
 plete are worth 2000—6000 l. The art has attained to a mar¬ 
 vellous degree of perfection, and its results may be fitly compared 
 to able literary translations. 
 
 We begin our visit with the workshops at the end of the court. 
 The workmen on the ground-floor are employed in the manufacture 
 of the ‘Savonnerie’ carpets, a velvet-like material. 
 
 On the first floor are two saloons devoted to the manufacture of 
 the ‘Gobelins’ tapestry, which is of two kinds, ‘de haute lisse’, where 
 the chain is vertical, and ‘de basse lisse’, where the chain is hori¬ 
 zontal. Most of the tapestry now in course of execution is destined 
 for the embellishment of the Nouvel Opera. 
 
 The exhibition rooms contain the tapestry which fortunately es¬ 
 caped destruction in 1871. 
 
 1st Room. High up, to the 1. of the door: 26. Reception of Per¬ 
 sian ambassadors, a fragment, after Mulard. Above the door: 27. 
 The Seine. Then, continuing towards the 1. : 32. The manna in the 
 wilderness, Poussin ; 22. Napoleon presenting a sword of honour to 
 the chief sheykh of Alexandria, Mulard ; above the door, 23. The 
 song; 30. Animals fighting, an Indian scene, Girodet Trioson. 
 
 In a corridor: 1. Amyntas and Silvia, executed about 1760, after 
 Boucher; there is also a more modern copy of the same work in the 
 next room, without a number. 
 
 Large Room. To the 1. : 21. Juno, on a rose-coloured ground, 
 Audrun; 4. History of Don Quixote, Coypel. Without number: 
 Fishing, Boucher. 2. Venus in the forge of Vulcan, Boucher; 13. 
 Dogs, studies of the ‘ecole des tapis’, E. Desportes. Above: 7. The 
 dog and its companion, a fable, Oudry; 6. Venus taking leave of 
 Juno and Ceres, a pendentive, Raphael. Below: 9. Portrait of Ch. 
 Lebrun, first director of the Gobelins (1613—70), with symbolical 
 
26. THE GOBELINS. 
 
 207 
 
 surroundings, Largilliere ; 11. Christ in the sepulchre, Ph.deCham- 
 paigne. Above: 10. Portrait of Louis XIV., H. Rigoud; 15. Por¬ 
 trait of Colbert, Rob. Leftvre; 14. Seat and back of an arm-chair. 
 Above: 8. The wolf and the lamb, a fable, Oudry; 12. Jupiter con¬ 
 soling Cupid, pendentive, Raphael; 16. The dance, Onofrio Avellinv; 
 18. Marriage of Alexander, Coypel, after Raphael. Above the door: 
 Sacrifice to the god Pou-Tai, a piece of Japanese tapestry. 
 
 The egress is on one side of the great room (fee on leaving). 
 
 The quarter in which the Gobelins building is situated is one of the 
 least attractive in Paris, although much improved by the construction 
 of the broad and handsome Avenue des Gohelins. It was formerly 
 traversed by the Rue Mouffetard, the poorest street in the town, 
 and the headquarters of the ‘chiffonniers’, or rag-collectors. This 
 street, however, now extends only to the foot of the hill of St. Ge¬ 
 nevieve, or the Pantheon. 
 
 At the S. end of the Rue Mouffetard, where the Avenue des 
 Gobelins begins, is situated the church of St. Medard , at the 
 back of which is a burial-ground containing the ‘wonder-working’ 
 tomb of the Jansenist deacon Abbe Paris, to which his adherents 
 were prohibited in 1732 by Louis XV. from making pilgrimages. 
 This gave rise to the witticism : — 
 
 l De par le Roi , defence a Dieu, 
 
 De faire miracle en ce lieu.’ 
 
 The S. continuation of the Avenue des Gobelins is named the 
 Avenue d'ltalie. The Prison Disciplinaire situated here (No. 38) 
 was the scene of an execrable crime on 25th May, 1871. On 
 19th May the Commune had arrested the peaceful and unoffending 
 Dominicans who presided over the school Albert le Grand atArcueil, 
 to the S. of Paris, and incarcerated them in the Fort de Bicetre. 
 On the 25th they were transferred to the above-mentioned prison, 
 whence they were conducted to the nearest barricade. The in¬ 
 surgents, however, being compelled to retreat, again consigned 
 their victims to the prison. A few minutes later they desired 
 them to quit the prison one by one, and each as he emerged into 
 the street was shot dead. The whole staff of the establishment, 
 monks, professors, and domestics, 19 in number, were thus cruelly 
 and wantonly murdered in cold blood. 
 
 Descending from the Gobelins towards the Rue Mouffetard, we 
 cross the Boulevard St. Marcel, and bearing to the L, follow the 
 Boulevard du Port Royal, which leads to theCarrel'our de l’Ohserva- 
 toire (p. 192). A little before reaching the latter, we observe in the 
 Rue St. Jacques, a street diverging to the r., the handsome church 
 of the military hospital of — 
 
 Val-de-Gr&ce, erected in 1745 — 66 from designs by Mansard. 
 'The court in front of it is embellished with a statue of the surgeon 
 Larrey, by David d'Angers. The facade of the church presents two 
 
208 
 
 27. ST. SULP1CE. 
 
 series of Corinthian and composite columns placed one above the 
 other. The dome, the most striking part of the church, a reduced 
 copy of that of St. Peter’s at Rome, 54 ft. in diameter, and 132 ft. 
 in height, is flanked by four towers, which also terminate in 
 domes. In the interior the dome is adorned with paintings by Mig- 
 nard, representing the glory of the blessed, a work extolled by Mo- 
 liere, but badly preserved. The high altar with its canopy of wreathed 
 columns is a copy of that of St. Peter’s at Rome. The church contains 
 the tomb of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles I. of England, over whose 
 remains a celebrated funeral oration was pronounced by Bossuet. 
 
 The hospital of the Val-de-Grace, originally a Benedictine mon¬ 
 astery, was founded by Anne of Austria, mother of Louis XIV., 
 in fulfilment of a vow. 
 
 The Cemetery of Montparnasse (p. 228) is not far from this point. 
 
 Farther N. in the Rue St. Jacques, and near the garden of the 
 Luxembourg, is the Institution des Sourds-Muets, which is shown 
 to visitors on Saturdays from 2 two 5 o’clock (vacations Aug. and 
 Sept.). The Classe d'Articulation, or the teaching of language by 
 signs, begins at 4. 30. On the whole the institution is very infe¬ 
 rior in interest to that for the blind (p. 227). The examination hall 
 is adorned with a bust of the Abbe de I'Epee, the founder (p. 76), 
 and one of the Abbe Sicard , his successor. It also contains an in¬ 
 teresting picture representing the Abbd de l’Epde embracing the 
 young Comte de Toulouse, one of his pupils, who had been 
 abandoned by his parents. The chapel contains a picture by Vernet, 
 representing Christ healing a deaf man, and another by Peyson, a 
 deaf and dumb painter, representing the Abbd de l’Epde on his 
 deathbed. 
 
 27. St. Sulpice. St. Germain des Prbs. 
 
 Fontaine St. Sulpice. 
 
 *St. Sulpice (PL, white, 6, 8), situated in the Place of that 
 name, a little to the N.W. of the Luxembourg, the richest of the 
 churches on the left bank of the Seine, is a building of grand 
 proportions, begun in 1646, but not completed until a century 
 later. The church is cruciform, 154 yds. in length, 61 yds. in 
 width, 114 ft. in height, and consists of a vaulted nave and 
 aisles. The facade is open to criticism, being too wide for the 
 church, and the towers are unsymmetrical, in consequence, it 
 is said, of a rule made by the former archbishops of Paris that 
 no church except Notre Dame should have a pair of towers of 
 symmetrical design and equal height. The effect, however, is 
 handsome. The facade consists of a Doric and Ionic portico, placed 
 one above the other. The towers are 222 ft. in height. The chief 
 portal is approached by five flights of steps, divided by the pro¬ 
 jecting- bases of the columns of the portico. 
 
27. ST. SULPICE. 
 
 209 
 
 At the entrance are placed, as basins for holy water, two enor¬ 
 mous shells (tridachna gigas), resting on rockwork of marble de¬ 
 signed by Pigalle. The oil-paintings by Vanloo may be inspected 
 by way of contrast to the fine frescoes with which the chapels are 
 adorned. 
 
 *lst Chapel on the S., or right side: 1. Jacob wrestling with 
 the Angel; 2. Heliodorus ejected from the Temple ; on the ceiling 
 St. Michael, completed in 1861; all by Eag. Delacroix. —*2nd 
 Chapel: 1. Religion solacing a dying man; 2. Efficacy of prayer 
 for the dead; by Heim. —3rd Chapel: 1. St. Roch praying for 
 the plague-stricken; 2. Death of the saint in the prison of Mont¬ 
 pellier; on the ceiling his Apotheosis; by Abel de Pujol, 1821.— 
 4th Chapel: Scenes from the life of St. Maurice; by Vinchon, 
 1822. •— 5th Chapel: Marble monument of the cure' Lenglet (d. 1750), 
 by Michael Sloodtz. 
 
 1st Chapel on the N., or left side: 1. St. Francois Xavier 
 resuscitating a dead man; 2. Miraculous cure of sick persons 
 at the burial of the saint; by Lason, 1859.—2nd Chapel: 1 St. 
 Framjois de Sales preaching in Savoy; 2. Ste. Chantal receiving 
 from the saint the constitution of a new order of nuns; by Hesse. 
 1860. — 3rd Chapel: 1. St. Paul’s Conversion; 2. St. Paul 
 preaching in the Areopagus at Athens; by Drolling, 1850. — 
 4th Chapel: 1. St. Vincent de Paul recommending foundlings to 
 the care of sisters of charity; 2. The saint at the death-bed of 
 Louis XIII., by Guillemot, 1825. 
 
 1st Chapel on the N. side of the choir: Triumph und Martyr¬ 
 dom of St. John, frescoes by Glaize, 1859. 
 
 1st Chapel on the S. side of the choir: St. Denis preaching 
 to the heathen Romans, and his Condemnation to death, by Jobbe- 
 Duval, 1859. 
 
 The pulpit is supported by the stairs which ascend to it. 
 The organ, one of the finest in Paris, has 6 keyboards, 118 stops, 
 and about 7000 pipes. 
 
 The Chapel of the Virgin at the back of the high altar contains a 
 group in marble by Pajou, lighted in a striking manner from the 
 back of the niche. The fresco on the dome by Lemoine , represent¬ 
 ing the Assumption of the Virgin, is undergoing restoration. 
 
 The Baptistery in the N. aisle contains a fine stained glass 
 window representing the Marriage of the Virgin. 
 
 The statues of St. Paul and St. John by the sacristy are by 
 Pradier ; those of the twelve apostles against the columns, by 
 Bouchardon. 
 
 On the pavement of the transept a Meridian Line was drawn 
 in 1743, with the signs of the zodiac. It is prolonged to an 
 obelisk of white marble which indicates the direction of due 
 North, while towards the S. it corresponds with a closed window, 
 
 Bjedeker. Paris. 4th Edition. 
 
210 
 
 27. ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 
 
 from a small aperture left in which a ray of the sun falls at noon 
 on the vertical line of the obelisk. 
 
 The handsome Place St. Sulpice in front of the church is 
 adorned by the Fontaine St. Sulpice, designed by Visconti, and 
 erected in 1847. It consists of three concentric basins, one above 
 the other, and is embellished with statues of the four most cele¬ 
 brated preachers in France: Bossuet (d. 1704), Ftfnflon (d. 1715), 
 Massillon (d. 1742), and Flechier (d. 1710). 
 
 The Place St. Sulpice is a busy omnibus station. A flower- 
 market is held here on Mondays and Thursdays. The long build¬ 
 ing on the S. side of the Place is the Seminaire de St. Sulpice, 
 for priests. A little to the N. of the choir of the church is the 
 Marche St. Germain, a large covered market-place built of stone, 
 100 yds. in length, and 79 yds. in width. 
 
 Descending the Rue Bonaparte from the Place St. Sulpice, we 
 cross the new Boulevard St. Germain, a little beyond which, not far 
 from the Ecole des Beaux Arts (p. 214), rises the church of — 
 
 St. Germain des Pres, the most ancient church in Paris. 
 It was erected in 1001 —1163, the lower part in the Roman¬ 
 esque , the upper in the Gothic style. The exterior is unin¬ 
 teresting. 
 
 During the Revolution, the church was converted into a salt¬ 
 petre manufactory, and fell into a very dilapidated condition, 
 but was at length restored in 1824'—36. An advantageous 
 clearance around the church has been effected by the construction 
 of the Boulevard St. Germain and the broad Rue de Rennes. 
 
 The interior was lavishly painted and gilded in 1852—61 
 under the direction of Hippolyte Flandrin (see below). The paint¬ 
 ings by Flandrin and others are works of some merit, representing 
 scriptural events and characters. Those in the nave represent the 
 types of the Old Testament and their realisation in the New. On 
 the 1. side of the entrance : the Burning Bush and the Annunciation ; 
 the Promise of a Redeemer and the Nativity; the Prophecy of Ba¬ 
 laam and the Adoration of the Magi; the Passage of the Red Sea 
 and the Baptism of Christ; the Priesthood of Melchisedec and the 
 Institution of the Eucharist. On the other side, returning towards 
 the entrance: the Sale of Joseph and the Betrayal of Christ; the 
 Offering of Isaac and the Death of Christ; Jonas issuing from the 
 whale’s belly and the Resurrection ; the Scattering of the nations and 
 the Dispersion of the apostles. 
 
 This series of paintings is completed by two others in the choir, 
 on a golden ground, by Flandrin : on the 1. the Entry of Christ into 
 Jerusalem; on the r. the Bearing of the Cross. Then, above the 
 arcades, the Prophets and Apostles, and the angel, lion, bull, and 
 eagle, the symbols of the Evangelists. The modern stained glass 
 in the choir represents Christ, the Virgin, and the Apostles. 
 
28. LA MONNAIE. 
 
 211 
 
 In the N. arm of the transept are paintings recently executed by 
 Cornu (d. 1871), representing on the r. Christ among the children, 
 the Mission of the apostles, the Transfiguration, and the Descent 
 into hell; and on the 1. the Finding of the Cross. 
 
 The S. transept contains the tomb of the Castellan family, dating 
 from the latter half of the 17th cent.; and in the choir-chapel ad¬ 
 joining the sacristy is that of James, Duke of Douglas (d. 1645). 
 The following chapel contains slabs of black marble to the memory 
 of Descartes (d. 1650), and the two learned Benedictines Mabillon 
 (d. 1707) and Montfaucon fd. 1641), who are interred here. 
 
 Behind the high altar is the modern Chapel of Notre Dame, 
 with painted reliefs of the Adoration of the Magi and the Presenta¬ 
 tion in the Temple. An inscription in the chapel of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul is sacred to the memory of the poet Boileau, whose heart 
 was brought here from the Sainte Chapelle in 1819. The following 
 chapel contains a second monument of the Douglas family. 
 
 The N. aisle contains a statue of St. Francis Xavier, by Coustou, 
 and the monument of Casimir V. (d. 1672), king of Poland, who 
 was at first a Jesuit, then a cardinal, and in 1648 succeeded his 
 brother on the Polish throne, but abdicated in 1668 and resumed 
 his cowl as abbe of St. Germain des Pres. Nearer the entrance is 
 a monument to H. Flandrin fd. 1864), the painter of the principal 
 frescoes in the church. 
 
 28. La Monnaie. L’Institut. 
 
 The H6tel desMonnaies, generally called La Monnaie, the mint 
 of Paris, a building 125 yds. in length, completed in 1755, is situa¬ 
 ted on the Quai Conti, between the Pont Neuf and the Pont des 
 Arts. The exhibition-rooms are open to the public on Tuesdays 
 and Fridays from 12 to 3 o’clock. The work-rooms and labora¬ 
 tories are shown on the same days at the same hours by special 
 permission only, for which application should be made to ‘Mon¬ 
 sieur le President de la Commission des Monnaies et des Medailles, 
 a l'Hotel des Monnaies’. 
 
 The stair to the r. in the vestibule ascends to the exhibition- 
 rooms. 
 
 The vestibule contains specimens of the metals used in coin¬ 
 ing. A cabinet to the r. of the vestibule contains a glass-case 
 with ancient coins, armorial bearings, and medals. The cabinet 
 to the 1. chiefly contains specimens of postage stamps. 
 
 The numerous glass cases in the principal saloon contain an 
 interesting collection of French Coins, arranged chronologically, from 
 the time of Charlemagne down to the present day, those of the reign 
 of Louis XIY. and Louis Philippe being most numerous; a collec¬ 
 tion of Foreign Coins of all countries, and another of Medals, of va¬ 
 rious kinds. 
 
 14* 
 
212 
 
 28. INST1TUT DE FRANCE. 
 
 A passage farther on contains experimental specimens of coins, 
 beyond which is a room with the instruments and furnaces used 
 in coining. 
 
 The following room contains Dies, and the Medals of the 
 Consulate and the Empire. A model of the Venddme Column, 
 placed here, with the statue of the emperor in Roman costume, 
 affords an opportunity of examining the reliefs in detail. A bust 
 of Napoleon I. by Canova, executed in 1806, and a cast of the 
 emperor’s face taken 20 hours after death are also preserved here. 
 
 The public are not admitted to the upper apartments, which 
 contain a collection of old dies, seals of the kings of France and 
 vassals of the crown , private medals, and other objects of little 
 interest. 
 
 The Laboratoire and Ateliers, with their steam-engines, furnaces, 
 and machinery, are well worth visiting. The coining-machines 
 invented by M. Thonnelier are highly ingenious, each piece of 
 money being struck by them in a single second. In the Monnaie 
 are also performed all the operations of assaying and stamping 
 the gold and silver wares of the jewellers, as well as the coining 
 of private medals and counters, which is a special privilege of 
 the Parisian mint. 
 
 The Pont Neuf, see p. 184. 
 
 Institut de France. This singular looking edifice is situated 
 on the Quai Conti (No. 23), on the 1. bank of the Seine, at the S. 
 end of the Pont des Arts, and opposite the Louvre. The front 
 of the building is in the form of a crescent, flanked with pro¬ 
 jecting wings with arcades, and surmounted by a dome in the 
 centre. The Corinthian porch is adorned with two figures of 
 lions and with fountains. The institution was originally founded 
 by Cardinal Mazarin for the education of youths from the newly 
 acquired provinces of Roussillon, Pignerol, Flanders, and Alsace. 
 It was erected in the latter half of the 17th cent., on the site of 
 the Tour de Nesle, where, according to tradition, Margaret of 
 Burgundy, wife of Louis X. used to cause young strangers to 
 be brought to minister to her pleasures, and afterwards to be 
 assassinated and thrown into the Seine. 
 
 Though originally called the College Mazarin, it was popularly 
 known as the College des Quatre Nations. During the Revolution 
 it was converted into a prison, but in 1795 was ceded by the 
 Convention to the Academies, or societies of savants, who had 
 hitherto held their meetings in the Louvre, and its name changed 
 to the Palais de l’lnstitut. 
 
 The Institut de France (admission, see below) embraces five 
 departments: 
 
 1. The Academie Franfaise, the principal tasks of which are 
 the revisal of the Dictionnaire de l’Academie, the publication 
 of a Dictionnaire Historique de la Langue Fran(aise, and the 
 
28. INSTITUT DE FRANCE. 
 
 213 
 
 distribution of various prizes for the encouragement of literature 
 and virtue, consists of 40 members. Secretary M. Patin. The 
 annual meeting takes place in May, the weekly meetings every 
 Thursday, 2 ! /2 — 47a o’clock. 
 
 2. The Academie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres is devoted 
 to the study of the ancient languages and to archa;ological re¬ 
 search. There are 40 ordinary members, 10 honorary members, 
 8 foreign associates, and 50 corresponding members. Secretary 
 M. Guigniaut. Annual meeting in July, weekly meetings every 
 Friday, 3 — 5 o’clock. 
 
 3. The Academiedes Sciences cultivates the study of mathematics 
 and natural science, and consists of 65 ordinary and 10 honorary 
 members, 8 foreign associates, and 92 correspondents. Secretaries 
 M. Elie de Beaumont and M. G. Dumas. This academy also super¬ 
 intends the publication of the Memoire et Compte Rendu des 
 Seances. Annual meeting in November; weekly meetings, to which 
 the public are admitted, every Monday, 3 — 5 o’clock. 
 
 4. The Academie des Beaux Arts, for the promotion of painting, 
 sculpture, architecture, and musical composition, consists of 40 or¬ 
 dinary and 10 honorary members, 10 foreign associates and 40 
 correspondents. One of its tasks is the publication of a Dictionnaire 
 de la Langue des Beaux Arts. Annual meeting on the first Saturday 
 in October; weekly meetings every Saturday, 3 — 5 o'clock. 
 
 5. The Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques, for the study 
 of philosophy, history, and political economy, consists of 10 ordinary 
 and 6 honorary members, 9 foreign associates, and from 37 to 
 47 correspondents, and publishes its Memoires. Secretary M. Mignet. 
 Annual meeting in April; weekly meetings every Saturday, 12—2 
 o’clock. 
 
 The Institut, which consists of the most eminent literary and 
 scientific men in France, therefore numbers 225 members, vacancies 
 being filled by the votes of the members in whose department they 
 occur, subject to the approval of government. Besides these there 
 are about 300 honorary and corresponding members. Each ordinary 
 member receives a salary of 1500 fr. 
 
 The title of ‘Membre de l’lnstitut’ is the object of the highest 
 ambition of every literary and scientific Frenchman. All their 
 meetings take place at the Palais de l’Institut. and are of course 
 extremely interesting, as the most eminent French savants take part 
 in the discussions. The grand meeting of the five departments 
 combined is held on 16th Aug. in the hall under the dome, which 
 was formerly the chapel, when the annual distribution of prizes takes 
 place. A decree of April, 1855, enacts that the period of the 
 annual meeting of each academy separately is to be fixed by the 
 minister of instruction. 
 
 The meetings of the Acaddmie des Sciences are public. Ad- 
 
214 
 
 29. PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS. 
 
 mission to any of the others is easily obtained by addressing a 
 written application to the secretary of the department in question f. 
 
 The Library of the Institut, a valuable and admirably arranged 
 collection, is not shown to visitors unless accompanied by a member. 
 A second library, the Bibtiotheque Mazarine , in the first court, 
 to the 1. of the entrance, containing 120,000 vols., 50,000 MSS., 
 and many valuable antiquities and curiosities, is open to the public 
 daily from 10 to 4 o’clock. Vacation from 15th Sept, to 1st Nov. 
 
 29. Palais des Beaux Arts. 
 
 Pont du Carrousel. Quai d'Orsay. 
 
 The Palais des Beaux Arts is in the immediate vicinity of the 
 Institut de France, on the W. side, the entrance being by No. 14 
 Rue Bonaparte. It ,may be visited daily from 10 to 4 o’clock (fee 
 1 fr.), but in September on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays 
 only. The Palais is the seat of the Eeole des Beaux Arts, founded 
 in 1848, for the teaching of painting, sculpture, engraving, gem¬ 
 cutting, and architecture. The pupils who obtain the first prizes in 
 their respective departments are sent to Rome and maintained at the 
 expense of government for four years. The works they send home, 
 termed ‘grands prix de Rome’, are exhibited annually about the end 
 of August in the hall of the Quai Malaquais (see below). The school 
 has a staff of 50 professors, and is attended by upwards of 500 
 pupils of different nationalities. 
 
 The building, which was erected in 1820—38 by Debret and 
 Duban , and occupies the site of the old Abbey des Petits Augustins, 
 is a handsome example of modern architecture. 
 
 The railing which separates the court of the building from the 
 Rue Bonaparte is adorned with colossal busts of Puget and Poussin, 
 by Mercier. The entrance is to the right. Visitors desirous of 
 seeing the interior apply to the concierge. 
 
 The Court contains numerous and handsome fragments of 
 French edifices, from the Gallo-Roman period down to the 16th cent. 
 These are the remains of the Muse'e des Monuments Fran^ais, 
 
 t The application may be worded as follows : — ‘Monsieur, je prends la 
 libertd, en qualite d’dtranger, de vous prier de vouloir bien m’autoriser a 
 assister a la procliaine seance de l’Acaddmie des . . . 
 
 Serait-ce abuser de votre obligeance que de vous prier de vouloir bien 
 adresser cette autorisation a l’adresse ci-dessous. 
 
 Veuillez bien, Monsieur, excuser mon importunite et recevoir a l’avance 
 les remerciments de 
 
 votre tres-humble serviteur’. 
 
 Name, profession, and address should be written very distinctly, and 
 the letter prepaid (postage 10 c.). For one of the weekly meetings the 
 address is: — ‘A Monsieur le Secretaire perpetuel de l’Acaddmie des . . . 
 (specifying the department) au Palais de l'lnstitut 1 ; for one of the annual 
 meetings : — ‘A Monsieur le Chef du Secretariat de lTnstitut, au Palais de 
 l’lnstitut’. 
 
29. PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS. 
 
 215 
 
 founded here at the time of the first Revolution by the painter 
 Alex. Lenoir (d. 1839), and consisting of interesting monuments, 
 tombstones, and reliefs rescued from the ruins of churches and 
 chateaux. In 1816 Louis XVIII. dispersed the collection, and 
 ordered most of the objects to be restored to their churches or 
 their original proprietors. 
 
 In the centre of the court is a Corinthian column in red 
 marble, surmounted by a bronze statue of Abundance. By the 
 wall to the 1. is an indestructible kind of fresco painted on lava 
 by the brothers Baize , representing the Eather blessing the world. 
 To the r. is the celebrated portal of the Chateau d’Anet, which 
 Henri II. caused to be erected in 1548, by Jean Goujon and 
 Philibert Delorme, for Diana of Poitiers, and which now forms 
 the entrance to the old abbey church (see below). Adjacent to this 
 portal are some interesting fragments of the Hotel de la Tremouille, 
 which formerly stood in the Rue des Bourdonnais, and was 
 a tine edifice of the 14th century. 
 
 The second court is separated from the first by the Arc de 
 Qaillon , the open facade of a famous chateau of that name (p. 299) 
 erected in 1500 by Cardinal d’Amboise, minister of Louis XII.. 
 in the transitional style of the beginning of the 16th century. 
 It was carefully transported hither and re-erected by M. Lenoir. 
 Beyond it are a number of statues copied from antiques by young 
 French sculptors at Rome. 
 
 The *Principal Facade, on the W. side of this court, upwards of 
 80 yds. in length, designed by Duban, and completed in 1838, is 
 the handsomest part of the building. It is adorned with two series 
 of arcades, one above the other, with Corinthian pilasters, and ter¬ 
 minates in an attic. This court also contains statues and architec¬ 
 tural fragments. 
 
 Our visit to the palace, under the escort of one of the custodians, 
 begins with the right, or N. wing. We ascend at once to the first 
 floor and traverse a gallery adorned with copies of the Loggie of 
 Raphael at the Vatican, by the brothers Baize. The rooms adjoining 
 this gallery are at present used as studios , but are destined to be 
 used for the exhibition of the works of the students at Rome. 
 
 To the 1. is a room where the council of the school meets, con¬ 
 taining portraits of former professors. Beyond it is a corridor with 
 a small platform which affords a view of the celebrated *Hemicycle 
 painted by Paul Delaroche (d. 1856), in the hall where the prizes 
 are distributed. This fine encaustic painting contains To figures 
 over life-size, representing celebrated artists of all ages and nations. 
 On a lofty throne in the centre, as representatives of the three 
 arts, are the three great Greek masters , Phidias the sculptor, 
 Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon, and Apelles the painter. 
 Four female figures in front represent, to the 1. Greek and Gothic, 
 to the r. Roman and Renaissance art. The Muse of Gothic art, with 
 
216 
 
 29. PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS. 
 
 long fair hair, is a portrait of the artist’s wife, a daughter of Horace 
 Vernet. On the r., beginning from the end, are the classical paint¬ 
 ers , the architects, who are placed under the columns, and the 
 masters of the French school. To the 1. are the sculptors, the land¬ 
 scape painters, and the colourists of every nation. Delaroche was 
 engaged 3t/ 2 years on this work, and received for it the sum of 
 80,000 fr. It was much injured by a fire in 1855, but was skilfully 
 restored by Mercier and Fleury. A large and admirably executed 
 engraving from this picture may be obtained of Ooupil et Co., 
 Boulevard Montmartre 19, the epreuves d'artiste at 600fr., epreuves 
 avec la lettre 150 fr. 
 
 We next pass through the Salle de Louis XIV., containing por¬ 
 traits of former professors, to a second gallery, with the continuation 
 of Raphael’s Loggie. 
 
 A long adjoining room contains drawings and elevations of build¬ 
 ings, executed by the Roman students of the school. In the centre 
 are models of the Colosseum, of the amphitheatre of Orange (Gard), 
 and of the ‘Maison Carre'e’ at Nimes, and many others are placed 
 around the room, the most interesting being that of the Pont du 
 Gard on the side next the entrance. At the other end of the room 
 is a large picture by Ingres, representing Romulus victorious over 
 Acron. 
 
 On quitting this room we descend to the ground-floor of the 
 principal building, which encloses a quadrangle, recently covered 
 and converted into a Museum of Casts. It contains, among other 
 objects, facsimiles of the columns of the Parthenon at Athens and the 
 temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. 
 
 We next cross the second court and return to the N. wing, to 
 visit the Musee des Copies , now in the course of formation , and the 
 saloons of the ‘Prix de la Tete d’Expression, of Sculpture, and of 
 Painting. 
 
 The Chapel of the old monastery, which we visit in the last 
 place, is now used as a magazine. It contains a copy of Michael An¬ 
 gelo’s Last Judgment by Sigalon (d. 1833), and a cast of the ancient 
 pulpit of the cathedral of Pisa. Near the egress there is some line 
 woodwork. 
 
 An additional facade to the Ecole des Beaux Arts, towards the 
 Quai Malaquais, was constructed in 1861. 
 
 If time permit, the traveller may now walk from this point along 
 the quays to the Palais du Corps Le'gislatif, and cross thence to the 
 Place de la Concorde on the r. bank. The first street on the 1. is 
 the Rue des Saints Peres, in which is situated the Hopital de la 
 Charite, founded in 1602. To the r. is the Pont du Carrousel , or 
 des Saints Peres, one of the handsomest of the bridges at Paris, con¬ 
 sisting of three iron arches constructed in 1832—34, and adorned 
 with colossal stone statues of the Seine and the City of Paris on the 
 1. bank, and Abundance and Industry on the r. bank. 
 
30. PALAIS DU CORPS LEGISLATIF. 
 
 217 
 
 The next quays are the Quai Voltaire and the Quai d'Orsay, 
 between which the Rue du Bac diverges to the 1. This street, the 
 Rue de Lille which runs parallel to the Seine, and the Quai d’Orsay 
 all suffered severely between 22nd and 28tli May, 1871, when 
 many houses and public buildings in this neighbourhood were 
 set on fire by the Communists, 35 houses in the Rue de 
 Lille and Rue du Bac alone being totally destroyed. The 
 scheme of destruction appears, however, to have been directed 
 chiefly against the public buildings in this quarter. The principal 
 of these were the Quartier (or Caserne) Bonaparte, the Cour des 
 Comptes and Conseil d’Etat, and the Palais de la Legion d'Honneur, 
 all situated in the Rue de Lille, with facades towards the Seine 
 on the opposite side. These three extensive and important 
 edifices were among the first doomed to destruction, and were 
 carefully prepared for their fate by the sinister operations of the 
 ‘petroleurs’ and ‘pe'troleuses’. 
 
 The latter in particular exhibited the most fiendish zest and 
 cunning in the execution of their task, gaining access to private 
 houses, entering shops, cellars, etc. under various pretexts, for 
 the purpose of pouring out their concealed supplies of the in¬ 
 flammable fluid. The above named buildings were almost entirely 
 destroyed, little more than the external walls having survived the 
 conflagration, and their calcined walls may be surveyed either 
 from the Rue de Lille or the Quai d’Orsay. 
 
 The Palais de la Legion d’Honneur, of which the exterior 
 suffered less severely, was erected by Prince Salm-Kyrburg in 1786, 
 and is historically interesting as the scene of Mme. de Stael’s 
 reunions during the Directory. 
 
 The Palais du Corps Legislatif (see below) was struck in different 
 places by projectiles during the sieges of 1870-—71, but has 
 otherwise escaped injury. The adjoining Ministere des Affaires 
 Etrangeres , however, shared the fate of the buildings above 
 named, part of it having been entirely gutted by the fire, while the 
 remainder was seriously damaged. Here, in the aristocratic Quartier 
 St. Germain, as in the Rue Royale, the Rue Rivoli, and other weal¬ 
 thy and handsome streets, the rage of the Communists was chiefly 
 directed against the property of government, and that of persons of 
 rank and wealth. 
 
 30. Palais du Corps Legislatif. 
 
 Ste. Clotilde. St. Thomas cTAquin. 
 
 Opposite the Place and Pont de la Concorde rises the — 
 
 Palais du Corps Legislatif, an edifice in the Greek style, 
 with a Corinthian colonnade, and a platform adorned with statues 
 of Justice and Prudence, and of d’Agnesseau, Colbert, l’Hopital, 
 and Sully. On each side are bas-reliefs by Rude and Pradier , and 
 
218 
 
 30. PALAIS DU COUPS LEGISLATE’. 
 
 above the colonnade a tympanum containing a group by Cortot, 
 representing France holding the constitution, between Liberty and 
 Public Order, and summoning Commerce, Agriculture, and other 
 useful arts to her aid. The palace has another facade in the Rue 
 de l’Universite, where the principal entrance is situated. In front 
 of this facade rises a marble statue by Feucheres representing Law, 
 erected in 1855. The palace, formerly Palais Bourbon, was begun 
 by Girardini in 1722 for the dowager Duchess of Bourbon, and 
 continued by Mansard. The Prince of Conde afterwards expended 
 20 million francs on the edifice. In 1795 the Council of Five 
 Hundred, and subsequently the Chamber of Deputies, whose pre¬ 
 sident resided in the palace, held their meetings here. The in¬ 
 terior has not been shown since the removal of the Chamber to Ver¬ 
 sailles. 
 
 The principal saloons in the palace, which are entered from 
 the side next the river, are: the Salle de la Paix, with ceiling- 
 painted by Horace Vernet, and several copies of antiques; the 
 Salle du Trone , painted by Delacroix ; the Salle Casimir Perier , 
 with statues of Mirabeau, and Bailly, the well-known mayor of 
 Paris in 1789, by Jaley, C. Pe'rier by Duret, and General Foy by 
 Desprez; the Salle des Conferences, decorated by Heim, with the 
 Mazeppa of H. Vernet ; the Salle des Seances , or Assembly Hall, 
 adorned with allegorical statues, which has retained its original 
 form. Here, on 24th Feb., 1848, the Duchess of Orleans appeared 
 before the National Assembly with her two sons, the Count of 
 Paris and the Duke of Chartres, in order to endeavour to secure 
 the throne for them. On 15th May of the same year the National 
 Assembly was expelled from this hall by the Socialists, and 
 order was restored by the National Guard. From 1863 down to the 
 Revolution of 1870 the number of deputies was 283, while under 
 the July Monarchy there were 459. The new Assemble'e Nationale 
 which now sits at Versailles numbers about 750 members. 
 
 Ascending the Rue de Bourgogne, on the E. side of the Corps 
 Legislatif, and then following the Rue las Cases, the third street to 
 the 1., we soon reach the church of — 
 
 *Ste. Clotilde, situated in the Place Bellechasse, a handsome 
 modern church begun in 1846 under the auspices of Queen Ame'lie, 
 who thought it unsuitable that the wealthiest and most aristocratic 
 quarter of the city should have no other place of worship than the 
 insignificant parish church of St. Thomas d’Aquin (see below). It 
 was erected by Oau and Ballu, and completed in 1859 at a cost of 
 8 million francs. This is the first modern church at Paris built in 
 the pointed style of the 14th cent., of which it is a tolerably success¬ 
 ful example. 
 
 The church is 110 yds. in length,35yds. in width, and 84 ft. in 
 height, and is completely isolated from other buildings. The facade 
 
31. HOTEL DES INVAL1DES. 
 
 219 
 
 consists of three portals with pointed pediments, and is flanked by 
 towers terminating in somewhat attenuated spires 215 ft. in height. 
 
 The interior is remarkable for its dignified simplicity, being 
 decorated with marble reliefs only. The magnificent stained-glass 
 windows, which were damaged by an explosion in 1871, effectually 
 soften and subdue the light. The frescoes in the five chapels of the 
 choir are by Picot, those in the two chapels in the transepts by 
 Lehmann , those in the Baptistery and Burial Chapel by Delaborde. 
 The sculptures are by Pradier , Duret, Guillaume, Triqueti , Paul 
 Gayrand , Lequ'esne , and others, the stained glass by Marechal , 
 Hesse , Lamotte , and Chancel. The stalls in the choir are master¬ 
 pieces of carving. 
 
 St. Thomas d’Aquin (PL, white, 6), a church situated in the 
 Place of that name, a little to the E. of Ste. Clotilde, and near the 
 Rue du Bac, was erected in 1082—1740, but the portal with its 
 sculptured pediment was not completed till 1787. The interior is 
 adorned with some good paintings: frescoes by Blondel; ceiling by 
 Lemoine , representing the Ascension; a Descent from the Cross by 
 Guillemot; St. Thomas Aquinas calming a storm, by Ary Scheffer; 
 Christ on the Mt. of Olives, a landscape by Berlin. 
 
 The Musde d’Artillerie, which formerly adjoined this church, is 
 now at the Hotel des Invalides (see below). 
 
 31. Hotel des Invalides. 
 
 Musie d'Artillerie. Napoleon's Tomb. 
 
 Hdtel des Invalides. One of the most conspicuous objects in 
 Paris is the lofty gilded dome of the Eylise des Invalides , situated 
 in the S.W. quarter of the city. From a distance the extensive 
 Hotel itself appears to form the pedestal of the dome, but is almost 
 entirely detached from the church. The whole establishment, which 
 is completely isolated from other buildings, occupies an area of 
 nearly 30 acres. 
 
 By a decree of 15th April, 1670, Louis XIV. founded this 
 splendid institution, ‘pour assurer une existence heureuse aux 
 militaires qui , vieillards mutiles ou infirmes, se trouveraient sans 
 ressources aprts avoir blanchi sous les drapeaux ou verse leur sang 
 pour la patrie'. The building was begun in 1671 by the eminent 
 architect Liberal Bruant, and completed in 1675. 
 
 Soldiers disabled by wounds, and those who have served for 
 30 years are entitled to be received into the Invalides. The 
 present number of inmates is about 3000, of whom about 160 are 
 officers, but there is sufficient room for 5000 persons. Besides 
 board and lodging, each inmate receives a small monthly pension, 
 a colonel 30 fr., a major 20 fr., a captain 10 fr., lieutenants and 
 corporals 5—3 fr., privates 2 fr. each. Breakfast and dinner are 
 served at 9 and 4, or 10 and 5, according to the season, and each 
 
220 
 
 31. HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 
 
 inmate is allowed one bottle of wine per day. On Sundays at 12 
 o’clock Military Mass is performed in the church, and at half 
 past 12 a Revue des Invalides , with military music, takes place in 
 the Cour d’Honneur (see below). 
 
 The building is approached from the Seine by the Esplanade des 
 Invalides , a handsome Place, opposite the Palais de l’lndustrie 
 (p. 123), bordered with several rows of trees, about 540 yds. in 
 length, and 270 yds. in width. The esplanade is separated by a 
 railing from the outer court, which is enclosed on three sides by a 
 dry moat, 10 ft. deep and 20 ft. broad. At the entrance are two 
 guard-houses where sentinels are posted. 
 
 A '■Batterie Triomphale of eighteen guns placed here is used 
 in firing salutes on grand occasions. On the right, as we face 
 the Seine, are two French 24-pounders, which were used at 
 the siege of Constantine in 1837; two Austrian cannons, one 
 cast at Vienna in 1681, the other in 1580, with the inscription 
 in German, 4 When my song resounds in the air , many a wall 
 will fall before me’; four Prussian guns, cast at Berlin in 1708, 
 captured there by the Austrians during the Seven Years’ AVar, and 
 brought by Napoleon from Vienna after the Battle of Austerlitz, 
 along with 2333 other cannon; a Dutch 24-pounder, captured at 
 the siege of Antwerp in 1832; four cannons and two mortars 
 from Sebastopol; a mortar from Algiers. To the left: the first 
 gun is from Wurtemberg, a master-piece of its kind, decorated 
 with allegorical statuettes; a Venetian piece, of 1708; the remain¬ 
 ing pieces correspond to those on the right side. The rest of 
 the external court is laid out in small gardens, which are cultivated 
 by the ‘invalides’. 
 
 The Facade of this vast edifice is about 220 yds. in length. In 
 front of the wings are placed four groups in bronze, by Desjardins, 
 emblematical of the four conquered nations for whose benefit the 
 College Mazarin (p. 212) was founded. They formerly belonged to 
 the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place des Victoires, but were 
 transferred to their present position in 1800. 
 
 The building consists of three storeys, surmounted with 
 trophies in stone. Above the principal entrance is an equestrian 
 statue of Louis XIV., with the inscription: Ludovicus Magnus 
 militibus , regali munifcentia in perpetuum providens , has aedes 
 posuit 161b. 
 
 In the large inner court with its open arcades, formerly called 
 the Cour Royale, now the Cour d’Honneur , the visitor is met by an 
 invalide who shows the courts and exterior of the buildings (fee 
 1 fr.). Other guides are appointed to show the dining-halls, 
 kitchens, council-chamber, and library (50 c. each, so that the fees 
 amount to 3 fr. in all). The kitchens and dormitories are not parti¬ 
 cularly interesting. On public days visitors are admitted gratuitously 
 to every part of the establishment. 
 
31. h6tel des invalides. 
 
 221 
 
 The Arcades of the inner court are partly adorned with 
 scenes from the history of France in four epochs, those of Charle¬ 
 magne, St. Louis, Louis XIV., and Napoleon I., hy Masson. 
 
 The Library , on the first floor, N. side, contains about 20,000 
 yoIs. and several MSS. of Sully and Colbert, a copy of David’s 
 picture of Bonaparte crossing the St. Bernard (p. 252), a line 
 portrait of Napoleon III. by Logier, an equestrian statuette of 
 Marshal Turenne, and the Austrian cannon-ball which caused his 
 death at Sassbach near Baden-Baden in 1675; also a large relief 
 plan of the Hotel des Invalides. 
 
 The vestibule of the Salle du Cornell, or council-chamber, 
 on the same landing as the library, is adorned with drawings of 
 flags and banners captured in battle and of the arms of French 
 towns. The adjoining apartments contain portraits of the two 
 architects of the edifice, Libe'ral Bruant and Jules Mansard, and 
 of the following marshals: Lannes, Due de Montebello ; Bes- 
 sicres, Due d’lstrie; Berthier, Prince de Wagram; Brune; Au- 
 gereau, Due de Castiglione; Mass^na, Duc.de Rivoli; Victor, Due 
 de Bellune; Lefebvre, Due de Dantzick; Kellermann, Due de 
 Valmy; Beurnonville; Davoust, Prince d’Flckmuhl; Perignon ; 
 the Due de Coigny ; Serrurier ; Suchet, Due d’Albufdra ; Gouvion 
 St. Cyr; Ney, Due d'Elchingen; Jourdan; Moncey, Duo de 
 Conegliano; Oudinot, Due de Reggio; Lauriston ; the Due de 
 Belle Isle; the Due de Broglie; and the Marquis de Viom^nisl. 
 Lastly, a portrait of Napoleon I. in his coronation robes, one of 
 Louis XIV., and busts of Napoleon I., Napoleon III. and Prince 
 Jdrome. 
 
 The four spacious Refectories on the ground-floor are adorned 
 with allegorical pictures, most of which have reference to the 
 campaign of Louis XIV. in the Netherlands (1672). Among 
 those in the officers' dining-room are the capture of Wesel, Em¬ 
 merich, and Utrecht, towns which were not in a position to 
 defend themselves and surrendered almost without a blow. Most 
 of these paintings are by Martin, a pupil of the prolific Van 
 der Meulen. 
 
 Patients in the Infirmerie are attended by 25 sisters of charity 
 of the order of St. Vincent de Paul. 
 
 The attics of the building contain a collection of sixty Relief 
 Plans of Fortresses in France, which are interesting on account of 
 the accuracy of their execution. They are shown annually between 
 1st May and 15th June only to persons provided with a permission, 
 for which application must be made beforehand in writing. 
 
 The Church consists of two separate parts, the old Eglise de 
 St. Louis, and the Dome, constructed by Jules Mansard in 1706, 
 between which there is no communication. 
 
 The old church is entered by a portal on the S. side of the 
 
222 
 
 82. HOTEL DES INYALIDES. 
 
 Cour d'Honneur. The lofty nave is adorned with banners, cap¬ 
 tured in Algeria under Louis Philippe, in the Crimea, in Italy, 
 in China, and in Mexico. The last flag to the r., with the double 
 eagle, is from Sebastopol, and the white one opposite once waved 
 on the Malakoff tower. 
 
 On 30th March, 1814, the evening before the entry of the 
 Allies into Paris, about 1500 flags, the victorious trophies of Na¬ 
 poleon I., were burned in the court of the Invalides to prevent 
 their falling into the hands of the enemy, by order of Marshal 
 Clarke, Due de Feltre, then minister of war. The order was 
 thrice given before the Invalides could be induced to destroy their 
 cherished trophies. The sword brought by Napoleon from the 
 tomb of Frederick the Great at Potsdam in 1806 was destroyed 
 on the same occasion. The last of the flags captured during 
 the wars of the Republic and the first Empire were accidentally 
 destroyed by fire during the funeral obsequies of Marshal Se- 
 bastiani in 1851. 
 
 The columns of the church bear a number of monuments 
 and tablets in memory of former governors of the Hotel des In¬ 
 valides, among whom were the Comte de Guibert (d. 1786), the Due 
 de Coigny (d. 1821), Marshal Lobau (d. 1838), Marshal Moncey (d. 
 1842), Marshal Oudinot (d. 1847) with medallion bust, Baron Es- 
 pagnac (d. 1782), and Marshal Jourdan (d. 1833). Two bronze 
 tablets record the names of the marshals and officers interred in 
 the vaults of the church, among whom are Marshal Mortier , who 
 was killed in 1835 by the explosion of Fieschi’s infernal machine in 
 the Boulevard du Temple, and Marshal ‘■Jacques Leroy de St. Ar- 
 naud , chef de Varmee de VOrient, decide en mer h bord du Ber- 
 tollet’ (d. 1854). On Sundays at noon mass is celebrated here, 
 accompanied by the usual military ceremonies. 
 
 The Musee d’Artillerie, if open, should next be visited. It is 
 now established in the buildings on the W. side of the Cour d’Hon- 
 neur, the entrance being in the middle of the right wing when 
 approached from the Esplanade. It is open to the public on Tues¬ 
 days, Thursdays, and Sundays from 12 to 3 or 4 o’clock. This 
 extensive collection comprises upwards of 4000 specimens of armour 
 and weapons of an offensive and defensive character. No new ca¬ 
 talogue has been published since 1862, but every object in the mu¬ 
 seum is furnished with an explanatory notice. 
 
 The vestibule contains several large cannon of different coun¬ 
 tries placed against the wall. 
 
 To the r. is the Salle des Modeles, comprising every engine of 
 war used from the time of Louis XIV. down to the present day. 
 Above and along the walls are originals or copies af all the French 
 flags and standards, beginning with the red Oriflamme. On the 1. 
 is the white banner of Joan of Arc with its fleur-de-lis. The poor 
 
31. HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 223 
 
 frescoes in this room and the one opposite are from the campaigns 
 of Louis XIV. 
 
 To the 1. of the vestibule is the Salle des Armures, containing 
 an admirable collection of armour of every kind, chiefly of the 15th 
 and 16th centuries. A cabinet on the r. contains helmets and 
 shields of different shapes. At the entrance to these two rooms is 
 a suit of armour with inscriptions giving the names of the different 
 parts. 
 
 We now leave the vestibule by a corridor, in which the Vestiaire, 
 or cloak-room, is situated (10 c.), and reach a passage between 
 two courts, which had better be visited after the other rooms. This 
 passage contains cannon from the 16th cent, downwards arranged 
 chronologically. 
 
 The next room is the Salle des Arrnes Primitives. On the r. 
 are glass cases with arms of the flint and bronze periods. On the 1. 
 are ancient weapons found on battle-fields. The objects with a red 
 mark are casts only. Around the room are also placed Oriental 
 arms, the blades of various kinds being on the r., and the firearms 
 on the left. 
 
 In the Salle des Armures et des Selles Orientates are preserved 
 ancient arms, Greek helmets, Roman, Etruscan, and other weapons. 
 Opposite the entrance is the war costume of the Emperor of China, 
 captured at his summer palace in the expedition of 1860; other 
 trophies of this campaign, and Mongolian and Japanese arms. 
 
 To the r. is the I. Salle des Armes Portatives, divided into 
 two sections by a partition. On one side are the blade-arms from 
 the 12th cent., on the other the firearms from the 15th cent, down¬ 
 wards. Against the wall near the egress is a glass case containing 
 French orders, military decorations, and marshal’s batons. 
 
 Opposite is the II. Salle des Armes Portatives, also divided 
 into two parts, one of which contains the continuation of the col¬ 
 lection, chiefly modern arms, and Oriental arms in glass cases. The 
 other part is occupied with a collection of crossbows, pistols, and 
 models of modern naval artillery. 
 
 To the r. of the passage as we leave the Museum is the Cour 
 de la Victoire, containing naval cannon ; and on the other side is 
 the Cour d'Anyouleme, where among other pieces is placed the 
 *Griffln, a culverin captured at Ehrenbreitstein on the Rhine in 
 1797, cast in 1528, and weighing nearly 13 tons. Suspended from 
 the wall here is part of the chain used by the Turks during the 
 siege of Vienna in 1683 as a support for a bridge of boats across 
 the Danube. This trophy, 190 yds. long, and 3t/ 2 tons in weight, 
 was brought in 1805 from Vienna, where the remaining part of the 
 chain is still preserved. Under the carriage entrance, by which 
 the visitor may now leave the hotel, is a chain with 50 iron collars 
 for prisoners, captured in the Morocco camp after the battle of 
 Isly in 1844. 
 
224 
 
 32. HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 
 
 The Ddme des Invalides is entered from the Place Yauhan 
 on the S. side, at the back of the Hotel, and is open to the 
 public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, 12—3 
 o’clock (vestiaire; 5 c. for each coat or umbrella"). 
 
 This church, which is entered by a portal with two series of 
 columns, Doric and Corinthian placed one above the other, adorned 
 with statues, consists of a square pile, 190 ft. in breadth, sur¬ 
 mounted by a circular tower with 12 windows and a lofty dome, 
 above which rises a lantern and cross, the summit of which is 
 330 ft. above the pavement. The dome was gilded during the 
 first Empire, and again, by the electro-plating system, in 1861. 
 It. is constructed of woodwork covered with lead, and adorned with 
 reliefs representing military trophies, and is 86 ft. in diameter. 
 
 The *Tomb of Napoleon I., situated under the dome, is an 
 open circular crypt, 20 ft. in depth and 36 ft. in diameter; the 
 walls are of polished slabs of granite, adorned by ten marble 
 reliefs by Simart: Restoration of public order, the Concordat, 
 the Reformed Administration, the State-council, the Code, the 
 University, the Chamber of finance, the Development of com¬ 
 merce and industry, Public works, and the Legion of Honour. 
 The twelve colossal figures emblematic of the victories gained by 
 the Emperor, were the last work of the celebrated Pradier (d. 
 1852); between them are six trophies consisting of 60 flags which 
 had long lain concealed in the Luxembourg. On the pavement are 
 recorded the names of the victories of Rivoli, Pyramided, Ma¬ 
 rengo, Austerlitz, Jena, Friedland, Wagram, Moskowa. 
 
 On the mosaic pavement, which represents a wreath of laurels, 
 rises the sarcophagus, 6*/ 2 ft. wide and 143/2 ft. high, consisting 
 of a single huge block of a kind of reddish-brown sandstone 
 weighing upwards of 60 tons, brought from Lake Ladoga in Fin¬ 
 land at a cost of 140,000 fr. Immediately above the crypt, at a 
 height of 160 ft., rises the lofty dome in two sections, the higher 
 of which is adorned with a painting by Delafosse , representing 
 St. Louis offering to Christ the sword with which he had van¬ 
 quished the foes of Christianity. The faint, blnish light admitted 
 from above, and the sombre aspect of the crypt and its sur¬ 
 roundings contribute greatly to the solemn grandeur of the scene. 
 
 The entrance to the vault is flanked by two sarcophagi, on 
 which are inscribed the names of Duroc and Bertrand, the em¬ 
 peror’s faithful friends. The former fell at the battle of Bautzen 
 in 1813, the latter (d. 1844) was the emperor’s constant com¬ 
 panion in all his campaigns and in his captivity, and followed 
 his remains from St. Helena in 1840 to their final resting-place 
 in the Dome des Invalides. Above the entrance are inscribed these 
 words from the emperor’s will: l Je desire que mes cendres repo- 
 sent sur les bords de La Seine, au milieu de ce peuple franfais 
 que j’ai tant aime.’ On each side is a colossal caryatide in 
 
32. CHAMP DE MARS. 
 
 225 
 
 bronze, by Duret , one bearing a globe, tlie other a sceptre and 
 crown, being emblematical of civil and military honour respectively. 
 
 The monuments of Vauban and TureAne, with their recumbent 
 figures, the former erected in 1807, the latter brought from 
 St. Denis, occupy lofty chapels on each side of Napoleon’s tomb, 
 but sink into insignificance when compared with the latter. 
 
 The chapel to the I. of the entrance contains the tomb of 
 Jerome Bonaparte (d. 1860), once King of Westphalia, a sarco¬ 
 phagus with a bronze statue of the prince by Guillaume : and 
 a smaller sarcophagus with the remains of Jerome’s eldest son. 
 The chapel to the r. of the entrance contains the large marble sar¬ 
 cophagus of Joseph Bonaparte (d. 1844), once King of Spain. 
 
 The tower visible from the Place Vauban is that of the Puits 
 dc Crenelle, mentioned at p. 228. 
 
 32. Ecole Militaire. Champ de Mars. 
 
 Pout d'Kna. Trocadiro. Manufacture des Tabacs. 
 
 The Ecole Militaire, situated a little to the S.W. of the Dome 
 des Invalides, was founded in 1751 by Louis XV., ‘pour y dlever 
 500 gentilshommes dans toutes les sciences ne'cessaires et con- 
 venables a un officier’. In 1792 it was converted into a barrack 
 for 5400 men and 1500 horses. The whole establishment covers 
 an area of 26 acres. The principal facade, towards the N.W., 
 which resembles that of a palace, is f/ 4 M. in length, the Corinthian 
 portico in the centre being surmounted by a quadrangular dome. 
 The wings were not built till 1855. The chapel resembles that 
 of Versailles. The public are not admitted without special per¬ 
 mission. In front of the building, towards theN. W., extends the — 
 
 Champ de Mars, a large open space, upwards of 1000 yds. in 
 length and 500 yds. in breadth, surrounded by rows of trees, 
 and used as an exercising-ground. This was the site of the 
 ‘Exposition’ of 1867, on which occasion the remainder of the 
 Champ was converted into a park. Down to 1861 it was 
 enclosed by embankments, in the formation of which no fewer 
 than 60,000 Parisians of both sexes and all classes partici¬ 
 pated in the year 1790. The embankments were then furnished 
 with rows of seats, which enabled hundreds of thousands of the 
 people to witness the celebrated Fete de la Federation, which 
 took place on 14th July of the same year. In front of the JScole 
 Militaire was erected the Autel de la Patrie , where the king, 
 the national assembly, and the representatives of the army and the 
 provinces, swore fidelity to the new constitution. Talleyrand, 
 Bishop of Autun, with 400 of the clergy, robed in white, offi¬ 
 ciated in the religious part of the ceremony. The rejoicings on 
 this occasion were universal, as it was believed that the Re¬ 
 volution was now happily terminated. 
 
 BamEKEit. Paris. 4th Edition. 
 
 15 
 
226 
 
 32. CHAMP DE MAPS. 
 
 A similar festival, the famous Champ de Mai, was celebrated 
 here with the utmost pomp by Napoleon on 1st June, 1815. Here 
 too, in August, 1830, Louis Philippe presented colours to the 
 National Guard, and in 1852 Napoleon 111. distributed to the army 
 the Eagles which were to replace the Gallic Cock. 
 
 Military reviews and parades frequently take place in the 
 Champ de Mars, where 30,000 men can be manoeuvred with ease. 
 On these occasions spectators are excluded from the Champ itself, 
 but they may witness the review from the sides. The heights 
 of the Trocadero (see below) afford a distant view of the scene, 
 but the troops are often enveloped in clouds of dust. The best 
 point of observation is the end of the Pont d’le'na next to the 
 left bank of the river, as the troops and persons of distinction 
 are sure to pass that way, even if they cross the Seine by some 
 other bridge. The most important reviews now taRe place more 
 frequently in the Bois de Boulogne. 
 
 The Pont d’lena, which crosses the Seine opposite the Champ 
 de Mars, was constructed in 1806—1813 to commemorate the vic¬ 
 tory of that name. It is adorned with colossal eagles, and groups 
 of a horse-taming Greek, Roman, Gaul, and Arab. 
 
 The Place du Trocadero, or du Roi de Rome, which lies on the 
 r. bank, opposite the Pont d J Iena, was laid out on the occasion of 
 the Exhibition of 1867, considerable labour having been expended 
 in levelling the undulating ground here. A huge flight of steps 
 ascends from the bridge to a plateau, commanding a fine view of 
 the quarters of the city on the 1. bank of the Seine, and originally 
 destined as a site for a statue of the king of Rome. Seven avenues 
 diverge from the Place, the most important of them being the 
 Avenue du Roi de Rome, leading to the Arc de l’Etoile. The Tro- 
 cade'ro, like the Champ de Mars, is generally a dull and deserted 
 spot, but is well adapted for the celebration of great popular festi¬ 
 vities. The last of these given by the city was on the occasion of 
 the visit of the Shah of Persia in 1872, who from this point wit¬ 
 nessed the illumination of Paris by means of electricity. 
 
 On the Quai d'Orsay, a little below the Pont des lnvalides, a 
 bridge adorned with statues of Navigation and Peace, rises the — 
 
 Manufacture des Tabacs, the extensive buildings of which 
 occupy the whole block between the Rue Nicot, the Rue de 
 l’Universite, and the Rue de la Boucherie des lnvalides. It is 
 shown on Thursdays only, 10—12 and 2—4 o’clock; visitors ring 
 at the principal entrance, generally indicated by a flag. The 
 arrangements of the establishment are interesting; 1800—1900 
 hands are employed, of whom 1400 are women, and 60—70 
 children; the women earn 2l/ 2 fr. per diem on an average. 
 
 There are seventeen government manufactories of tobacco in 
 France, all dependent on that of Paris, yielding an annual re¬ 
 venue of 200 million francs. 
 
2*27 
 
 33. Asylum for the Blind. 
 
 Artesian Well of Grenelle. 
 
 The ’Institution des jeunes Aveugles, or Blind Asylum (PL, 
 white and blue, 4), is situated at the S. end of the Boulevard 
 des Invalides. This handsome edifice, erected in 1839—1845, 
 with its two projecting pavilions, is separated from the bou¬ 
 levard by a railing. The bas-relief which adorns the pediment 
 above the entrance, by Jouffroy , represents Valentin Haiiy (d. 
 1822), the founder of the institution, instructing his pupils 
 under the protection of Religion. In the court is placed a marble 
 statue of the founder, with a blind girl at his feet. Admission 
 by card obtained by applying to the director, or on showing a 
 passport, on Wednesdays only, l */4 to 4 or 5 o’clock. The chief 
 object of the institution is the maintenance and instruction of 
 blind children of both sexes, of 9—13 years of age, but their 
 residence may, if necessary, be prolonged to their 21st year. 
 Most of the inmates are supported by government, or by the 
 parishes to which they belong. Private pupils of any age are 
 received for 1000 fr. per annum. 
 
 The usual number of inmates is 180, of whom 50 are girls. 
 The masters and female teachers are all themselves blind, most of 
 them having been educated at this establishment. 
 
 One of the attendants (fee 1 fr.) conducts visitors through the 
 different parts of the institution, the dining-rooms, work-rooms, 
 dormitories, printing-office , garden , gymnastic and play-ground. 
 
 The Printing-office is one of the most remarkable departments. 
 Books for the blind are printed here in raised characters. The 
 alphabet consists of six points, different positions and combina¬ 
 tions of which form the different letters. The same system is 
 employed in writing, the pupil impressing the points on paper 
 with a pointed instrument. 
 
 The principal manual occupations of the inmates are carpen¬ 
 tering, turning, brush-making, straw-plaiting, netting, and weaving. 
 Specimens at somewhat high prices may be purchased in the sale 
 room, the profits being for the benefit of the establishment. 
 
 The most important branch of instruction is music, for which 
 the blind generally show remarkable aptitude, and which of all 
 pursuits is the best calculated to enable them to gain their own 
 livelihood. A short *Concert is given every Wednesday in the 
 chapel at 4 o’clock, by an orchestra of 30—40 blind children, 
 whose conductor is also blind. The frescoes in the chapel, by 
 H. Lehmann, represent Christ consolating the blind. 
 
 An examination of the pupils takes place on the last Sat¬ 
 urday of every month, when visitors are admitted by applying to 
 the Director (see form given at p. 214). The institution is 
 closed during the vacations in August and September. 
 
 15 * 
 
228 
 
 34. CEMETERY OF MONTPARNASSE. 
 
 The Rue Duroc, on the N.W. side, leads to the neighbouring 
 Place de Breteuil, at the end of the avenue of that name. In the 
 centre of this Place rises the tower, 128 ft. in height, of the •— 
 
 Artesian Well of Grenelle, which is 1870 ft. in depth, and 
 yields200,000 gallons of water daily. This and three other Artesian 
 wells, the most important of which is that of Passy, supply the vast 
 waterworks of the city. 
 
 34. Cemetery of Montparnasse. 
 
 Parc de Montsouris. 
 
 The Cemetery of Montparnasse, the third of the great Parisian 
 burial-grounds, originally intended for all the quarters on the 
 left hank of the Seine, is now, like Pere Lachaise, used for inter¬ 
 ments in private vaults only. It was laid out in 1824, when it 
 consisted of a space of about 30 acres, but it has since been con¬ 
 siderably extended. It is uninteresting compared with the cemetery 
 of Pere Lachaise, and even that of Montmartre, but may con¬ 
 veniently be visited either before or after an excursion to Ver¬ 
 sailles, the station for which is in the vicinity (rive gauche , p. 236). 
 
 Near the entrance, to the r. , is the burying-ground of the 
 sisters of charity, enclosed by a railing, where one of the most 
 conspicuous crosses marks the grave of Sce.ur Rosalie Rendu , who 
 was presented with the cross of the Legion of Honour in recogni¬ 
 tion of her unwearied and disinterested labours in the Crimea. 
 Her grave is almost always adorned with fresh flowers and wreaths 
 placed on it by soldiers of the French army from their affectionate 
 regard for her memory. A little farther, to the 1. as the principal 
 avenue is entered, is the monument of a Mile. Leontine Spiegel , 1 
 adorned with a remarkably fine statue in white marble. 
 
 A cross to the 1. in the principal walk, which runs from N. to 
 S., indicates the grave of Henri Gregoire (d. 1832), one of the 
 first of the clergy who swore fidelity to the new constitution in 
 1790, afterwards Bishop of Blois, and in 1795 a member of the 
 council of Five Hundred. In 1815 he was deprived of his bishop¬ 
 ric by Louis XVIIL, and excluded from the Institut, of which he 
 was a member. On his death the Archbishop of Paris refused his 
 remains Christian burial, as he had declined to retract his oath. 
 
 In the preceding lateral walk are several men of letters : Mongez 
 (71. 1831); Thurot (d. 1832), the philologist. Beyond these, 
 Ottavi (d. 1841), ‘orateur, parent de Napole'on, ne a Ajaccio’. 
 
 In the circular space, to the r. : Mazois (d. 1826), an eminent 
 architect; Orfila , the physician (d. 1833); farther back, Boyer, the 
 celebrated surgeon (d. 1833), with a bust. — Farther on : Cham- 
 pagny, due de Cadore , minister of the exterior from 1807 to 1811. 
 
 To the r. in the principal walk : Duval (d. 1842), the dramatist. 
 
 In the W. avenue, to the r. when entered from the circular 
 
34. CEMETERY OF MONTPARNASSE. 
 
 229 
 
 spare: Admiral Dumont d'Urville, who, with his wife and only 
 son, lost his life by a railway accident in 1842 (comp. p. 237), 
 with fanciful representations of his principal voyages. 
 
 In the E. avenue: General Henri de Mylius (d. i860), a large 
 monument with a bust in bronze. Then : Bouluy de la Meurthe 
 (d. 1840), member of the Five Hundred, president of the legis¬ 
 lative commission under Napoleon I., exiled in 1815. 
 
 In the vicinity, opposite, the singular monument of Aug. 
 Dornhs, ‘representant du peuple , mort pour la Republique’, who 
 was killed by the insurgents in June, 1848. 
 
 In the N.E. avenue: Jacques Lis franc (A. 1847), an eminent 
 military surgeon and professor; one of the reliefs on the sides 
 represents a scene from the battle of Eeipsic, the other a lecture 
 attended by numerous pupils. 
 
 The Parc de Montsouris, which was in course of formation on 
 the outbreak of the war in 1870, will when completed be an extensive 
 and attractive public promenade for the S. side of the town, like the 
 Ruttes Chaumont for the E. side. The works have been suspended 
 for several years, but will probably be resumed on the completion 
 of the reservoir of the Aqueduct of the Vanne (see below). The 
 park, which is 40 acres in area, adjoins the fortifications, and lies 
 exactly to the S. of the Observatory. It will be reached from the 
 Place d’Enfer, at the S. E. corner of the Cemetery of Montparnasse, 
 by the Avenue de Montsouris. The site of the park commands an 
 extensive survey of the city, and particularly of the S. part of the 
 hill of Ste. Genevieve and the valley of the Bii'vre. To the E. is the 
 station Glacicre-Gentilly on the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture (p.233). 
 To the W. lies the large unfinished reservoir of Montsouris , which 
 is regarded as a marvel of modern constructive skill. The sides are 
 built of solid stono, the masonry being 10 ft. thick, and the basin 
 will hold nearly a million cubic feet of water, one-third of which 
 will be supplied daily by a conduit. The latter is 7 ft. in diameter 
 and about 108 M. in length, and will bring to Paris the water of the 
 Vanne, a stream rising in Champagne, about 0 M. from Troyes. 
 Two other reservoirs of the same kind have recently been constructed 
 at Mdnilmontant and Belleville to augment the supply of the city. 
 
 35. Subterranean Paris. 
 
 Catacombs. Drainage. 
 
 Having completed our description of Paris above ground, we 
 must now devote a few words to subterranean Paris, its catacombs, 
 and its vast and skilfully constructed sewers. 
 
 The Catacombs were formerly quarries, worked as far back 
 as the Roman period, yielding a soft kind of limestone which 
 hardens on exposure to the air. These subterranean galleries, 
 which extend under a great part of Paris, have upwards of sixty 
 
230 
 
 35. SUBTERRANEAN PARIS. 
 
 entrances in different suburbs. The principal stair which descends 
 to them is in the Rue dc la Tombc-Isoire, near the old Barriere de 
 l’Enfer, not far from the S. end of the Cimetiere du Montparnasse, 
 and on the farther side of the Garc de Sceaux. These sombre caverns 
 used to form one of the usual sights of Paris, but visitors are now 
 admitted two or three times a year only, if provided with a special 
 permission from the ‘Ingenieur en chef des Mines et Inspecteur Ge¬ 
 neral des Carrieres dc Paris’, whose offices are at the Luxembourg. 
 
 Several streets in the S. part of Paris, situated above these 
 quarries, having begun to show symptoms of sinking, steps were 
 taken by government in 1784 to avert the danger by constructing 
 piers and buttresses where the upper surface was insufficiently 
 supported. About the same time the Council of State ordered 
 the removal of the bodies from the Cemetery of the Innocents, 
 and others, which were closed at that period, to these subterranean 
 quarries. In 1786 the catacombs were accordingly converted into 
 a vast charnel-house. During the Revolution and the Reign of 
 Terror, immense numbers of bodies and bones brought from 
 various quarters were thrown into these cavities, in confused 
 masses; but in 1810 a regular system was organised for the 
 more seemly disposition of these remains, and the preservation of 
 their resting-place. New pillars have since been erected to support 
 the roof, excavations made to admit more air, and channels 
 dug to carry off the water. The galleries and different compart¬ 
 ments are completely lined with human bones, arranged with 
 great care, and intermingled with rows of skulls. Several chapels 
 have also been constructed entirely of the same ghastly materials, 
 and furnished with various inscriptions. 
 
 Drainage. Still more interesting than the Catacombs is the 
 vast network of sewers by which Paris is undermined, and which 
 are so admirably constructed and well ventilated that parties, in¬ 
 cluding even ladies , have frequently been formed to explore them. 
 This system of drainage has been so beneficial to the public health 
 that the annual death rate, which was 36 per 1000 under Louis XVI., 
 has been reduced to 22—25 per 1000, the unusually unhealthy 
 years immediately following the recent war and deaths from violence 
 being of course left out of view. If these statistics be correct, Paris 
 is the healthiest capital on the continent, as indeed one would expect 
 from the fact, that, with the exception perhaps of Hamburg, it is 
 the only continental city provided with a complete system of un¬ 
 derground drainage. The inhabitants are strictly forbidden to 
 pollute the public streets or gutters with dirty water, proper chan¬ 
 nels connected with the sewers being provided for the surface as 
 well as other drainage, and conducting it to a long tunnel which 
 falls into the Seine below the bridge of Asnieres. 
 
 The total length of the principal sewers of Paris is upwards of 
 250 M., and when the system is complete , the length will be about 
 
35. SUBTERRANEAN PARIS. 
 
 231 
 
 300 M. Most of these works have been constructed under the 
 direction of M. Belyrand since 1852. The city is divided into four 
 parts by two large sewers perpendicular to the Seine, termed Egouts 
 Colleeteurs , and running under the Boulevard de Sebastopol and 
 Boulevard St. Michel respectively. Into these run about 15 tribu¬ 
 taries, which in their turn receive the contents of numerous smaller 
 drains. Parallel with the river run four large ‘colleeteurs’. Two 
 of these, each 2'/2 M. in length, start from the Place de la Bastille 
 and terminate at the Place de la Concorde, one of them following the 
 direction of the quays, while the other runs under the Rue St. An¬ 
 toine and the Rue de Rivoli. Of the two others , which are on the 
 left bank, one , upwards of 4 M. in length , extends from the Pont 
 d’Austerlitz to the Pont d’lena, the other, I'/sM. in length, from 
 the Entrepot des Vins under the Boulevard St. Germain to the quay, 
 near the Place de la Concorde. These channels are all of such 
 ample dimensions as to carry off with ease the surface water from 
 the whole city after the heaviest rains , the smaller being 7 ft. high 
 and 3% ft. wide, the larger 15 ft. by 18 ft. 
 
 The sewers are all constructed of solid masonry and lined with 
 waterproof cement. The ‘colleeteurs’ are flanked with pavements 
 or ledges, between which the water runs, and above one or both of 
 which is a conduit for pure water. All the galleries communicate 
 with the streets by numerous iron ladders, and each is furnished 
 with its distinctive mark and the name of the street above. 
 
 All the ‘colleeteurs’ empty themselves into a ‘ Collecteur General' 
 in the Place de la Concorde. Even those of the left bank, which 
 are particularly dirty on account of the refuse from tanners’, curriers’, 
 and dyers’ premises throw'll into them, are united at a point a little 
 above the Pont de la Concorde, from which they are carried below 
 the bed of the Seine by a massive pipe of cast iron, upwards of 
 3 ft. in diameter, and discharge themselves into the general sewer." 
 This last, which falls into the Seine at Asuieres , is nearly 3'/2 M. 
 in length, and carries off 100,000 cubic ft. of water per hour, but 
 is capable of passing live or six times the quantity. 
 
 The cleaning of the larger sewers , in which there is a channel 
 flanked by ledges, is effected by a very ingenious system. In the 
 ‘grand collecteur’ there are four boats of the same width as the 
 channel, each provided with a kind of moveable gate or slide, which 
 when let down exactly fits the channel. Each boat, having been 
 placed at its assigned starting-point, has its slide adjusted, and is 
 then propelled downwards by the force of the stream, scraping clean 
 the bottom and sides of the sewer as it advances. In the ‘grand 
 collecteur’ this process occupies 16 days. In the smaller sewers, 
 where the current is not strong enough to be available in this way, 
 the boats are replaced by small waggons running on rails at the 
 bottom of the channel, and propelled by the workmen walking along 
 the pathways at the sides. 
 
36. Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. 
 
 The Chemin de Fer de Ceinture is a railway forming a complete 
 circle round Paris, within the line of the fortifications, and affording 
 a convenient mode of transit between the different suburbs. The 
 principal station of departure and arrival is the Gare St. Lazare 
 (PL, red, 6), and there are 28 stations in all.' The length of the 
 line is 23 M., but owing to the frequency of the stoppages the whole 
 distance is not performed in less than 2 hrs. 22 min. 
 
 Travellers may avail themselves of this railway to visit points 
 of interest in the suburbs, such as Pcre Lachaise, the Buttes- 
 Chaumont, Montmartre, the Bois de Boulogne, and particularly as a 
 means of communication between one suburb and another. The 
 line runs in many places through tunnels and deep cuttings, but 
 affords a considerable number of fine points of view. The outside 
 seats are recommended to gentlemen in fine weather. 
 
 The older part of the line from St. Lazare to the Bois de Bou¬ 
 logne and Auteuil is still used, but the trains of the ‘ceinture’ line 
 also convey passengers to and from these stations. 
 
 Trains making the whole circuit start from St. Lazare once an 
 hour in opposite directions, from 6. 30 a. m. to 8. 30 p. m., also at 
 every half hour from 8.30 a. nr. till dusk (consult lndicateur). The 
 fares are very moderate, the complete circuit costing 85 c. in the 
 first, and 55 c. in the second class, and on Sundays and holidays 
 1 fr. 10c. or 70 c.; the fares for shorter distances are, however, 
 higher in proportion. On Sundays and holidays each train starts 
 from the Gare St. Lazare 3 min. earlier than on week-days. 
 
 Soon after leaving the station the train passes under a broad 
 bridge, occupying the site of the former Place del’Europe, and through 
 a tunnel 360 yds. long, and enters the Quartier des Batignolles. 
 
 1 ] / 4 M. Stat. Batignolles, where the St. Germain, Normandy, and 
 Versailles lines diverge. Beyond it, theCourcelles-Ceinture station, 
 where the other end of the line terminates, is left on the right. 
 
 l 7 /gM. Courcelles-Levallois, for the village of Levallois, outside 
 the fortifications. Passengers for Clichy or Belleville alight here, 
 and proceed to the Courcelles Ceinture station. 
 
 3Yg M. Porte-Maillot-Neuilly , for Neuilly, the Avenue de la 
 Grande Armee, the Arc de l’Etoile, and the Bois de Boulogne. 
 
 3 3 /4 M. Avenue Uhrich , or de iImperatrice , at the entrance to 
 the Bois de Boulogne by the Porte Dauphine, not far from the lakes. 
 The line now passes through a cutting and skirts the pretty grounds 
 of the Chateau de la Muette, lying on the E. side, and entered 
 opposite the Passy station. 
 
 43/g M. Passy , one of the suburbs annexed to Paris in 1860, 
 with numerous pleasant villas. The Boulevard Rossini and the 
 Route de Passy lead hence into the Bois de Boulogne, passing between 
 
36. CHEMIN DE FER DE CEINTURE. 
 
 233 
 
 the lakes. A little farther, the line passes the VilledeMontmorency, 
 a small kind of park with villas. 
 
 o 5 / 8 M. Auteuil , another annexed suburb, with numerous villas, 
 near the S. end of the Rois de Boulogne. Omnibuses run from this 
 station to Boulogne and St. Cloud. 
 
 From this point to Vaugirard the line is interesting, both in an 
 engineering point of view, and on account of the views it affords. 
 For IV4 M. it is carried along a handsome viaduct of stone, com¬ 
 manding a view to the r. of the Bois de Boulogne , Mont Valerien, 
 St. Cloud with its park, the wooded heights of Sevres and Meudon, 
 and Issy with the Hospice des Menages. 
 
 6*/ 4 M. Poinl-du-Jour. Beyond this point the view becomes 
 still more picturesque, embracing the course of the Seine fora 
 considerable distance and the city itself to the 1., and of the lie de 
 Billancourt and Sevres in the opposite direction. The Seine is now 
 crossed by an imposing bridge, provided also with a carriage-way 
 and a path for foot-passengers, a view of which is best obtained from 
 one of the ordinary bridges across the river immediately above it. 
 
 6 7 / s M. (irenelle. The line now crosses an open space, where 
 a view of Paris and its environs, and of the village of Vanves with 
 its school is obtained. 
 
 7l/ 2 M. Vaugirard-Issy, beyond which there is a short tunnel. 
 
 8>/ 8 M. Ouest-Ceinture , where the line passes under the Rive 
 Gauche railway, and where passengers bound for Versailles by the 
 latter line alight. Through-tickets for Versailles are issued at the 
 most important stations on the ‘ceinture’. The train now runs 
 through a cutting. 
 
 8 3 / 4 M. Mnnlrouge, beyond which there is a tunnel intersecting 
 the catacombs. The line then crosses the Sceaux and Limours 
 railway near the Sceaux-Ceinture station. 
 
 9 3 / 8 M. Im Qlaciere-Qentilly , where passengers for the last 
 named railway alight. To the 1. in the vicinity is the unfinished 
 Parc de Montsouris, then the lunatic asylum of Bicetre, and farther 
 distant the dome of the Val de Grace (p. 207). The train then 
 crosses the two arms of the Bi&vre. 
 
 10 5 /s M. Im Maison Blanche, the nearest station to the Gobelins. 
 
 11 7 / 8 M. Orleam-Ceinlure, where the line intersects the Orleans 
 railway. The train now crosses the Seine by the Pont de Berry 
 Ceinture, or de Napoleon III. 
 
 12'/ 2 M. La Rupee-Percy , adjoining the Entrepot des Vins. 
 The train crosses the Lyons railway and the Avenue Daumesnil by 
 a viaduct, from which the Bois de Vincennes and the Lac de Dau¬ 
 mesnil or Charenton are visible. 
 
 13y 8 M. Bel-Air, above the Vincennes railway, for which 
 several of the ‘ceinture’ stations issue tickets. To the r. is seen 
 the Bois de Vincennes, with the miniature lake of St. Mamie'. 
 
231 36. CHEMIN DE FEE DE CE1NTURE. 
 
 13 3 / 4 M. Avenue de Vincennes , to the 1. of which lies the Place 
 (lu Trdnc. 
 
 15 M. Charonne, in a manufacturing quarter, beyond which the 
 train passes through a long tunnel on the E. side of Pere Lachaise. 
 This is the nearest station to the cemetery. 
 
 15 5 /g M. Menilniontant. The line is now a considerable way 
 from the fortifications. A long tunnel passes undcrpartof Relleville, 
 and a cutting intersects a corner of the park of the Buttes Chau- 
 mont. Then another tunnel under the intersection of the Rue de 
 Mexico and de Crimee. 
 
 16 7 / 8 M. Belleville-Villette , where a short branch to the r. 
 diverges to the cattle-market and ‘abattoirs’, or slaughter-houses of 
 La Villette, a view of which is obtained as the train crosses the 
 Canal de VOurcq. These slaughter-houses, when completed, will 
 be 64 in number, covering an area of 67 acres, and will be well 
 worthy of a visit. It is proposed to connect them with the Halles 
 Centrales (p. 37) by an underground railway. The Canal del'Ourcq 
 is important for the small craft navigating the Ourcq , an affluent 
 of the Marne , as it connects it with the Seine and cuts off a long 
 circuit. To the S. of the Bassin de la Villette it is termed Canal 
 St. Martin, and reaches the Seine by passing under the Boulevard 
 Richard Lenoir and the Colonne de Juillet (p. 61). A ramification 
 of this canal is the Canal St. Denis, between the railway and the 
 ‘abattoirs'. 
 
 171/2 M. Pont-de-Flandre, where the Ligne de l'Est is crossed. 
 To the 1. is a junction-line between that line and the Ligne du Nord. 
 Montmartre is visible from this point. 
 
 183/ 4 M. La Chapelle-St. Denis. To the 1. is the goods-station 
 of the Chemin-de-Fer du Nord , which railway is now crossed by 
 a viaduct. The fortifications arc again skirted. On the 1. rise the 
 heights of Montmartre. 
 
 19 3 /g M. Boulevard Ornano. 
 
 20 M. Avenue St. Ouen, whence a branch to the r. runs to 
 the Docks de St. Ouen, the station for the Cemetery of Montmartre. 
 
 205/g M. Avenue de Clichy, beyond which the line passes under 
 tire Ligne de l’Ouest. 
 
 21 7 /g M. Courcelles-Ceinture, theterminus of the line encircling 
 the city. Passengers intending to return to St. Lazare alight here, 
 proceed to the almost contiguous Courcelles - Levallois station, 
 already mentioned, and enter the St. Lazare train which passes 
 Batignolles as before. 23 M. St. Lazare. 
 
ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 
 
 37. Versailles. 
 
 Versailles is situated 10 M. to the S. W. of Paris, with which 
 it is connected by two railways, and a high road running between 
 them. By the railway on the ‘Rive Droite’ the distance is ld'AM., 
 by that on the ‘Rive Gauche' 12 M. , and by the road about lO M. 
 As the traveller will probably desire to visit the extensive historical 
 museum (closed on Mondays) more than once, he may on each 
 occasion pleasantly vary his route. 
 
 Rive Droite (Gare St. Lazare, 124; PL, red, 6; seep. 20), 
 or railway on the right bank of the Seine. Trains start from 
 Paris every hour from 7. 30 a. m. till 12. 30 a. m., and from 
 Versailles every hour from 7 a. m. till 11 p. m. , after which 
 one more train leaves at 11. 30 p. m.; the journey occupies 
 49 minutes. Fares 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 35 c.; on Sundays and 
 holidays, when the fountains play, 2 fr. 20, and 1 fr. 65c.; 
 return-tickets, on which there is no reduction, are available for 
 the Rive Gauche (p. 236). 
 
 Passing through two tunnels, the first under the Place de 
 l’Europe, the second penetrating the ramparts, the train skirts 
 the Docks Napoleon, an undertaking which has proved a failure, 
 and quits the city. Between Clichy and Asni'eres, where the 
 ‘Casino d’Asnieres’ and a favourite swimming-bath are situated, 
 the Seine is crossed. The lines to Argenteuil, St. Germain, and 
 Rouen diverge here to the r. (pp. 257, 300). 
 
 The Versailles line describes a wide curve. The long building 
 to the 1. of the station of Courbevoie is a barrack erected by 
 Louis XV. for his Swiss Guard, and occupied by the Imperial 
 Guards under Napoleon I. The next station is Puteaux. The 
 line traverses high ground, and affords an extensive view of Paris, 
 the Bois de Boulogne, and the valley of the Seine. 
 
 Near the station of Suresnes the railway skirts the base of 
 Mont Valerien, which rises 600 ft. above the Seine, and com¬ 
 mands a magnificent view. It cannot, however, be visited without 
 permission from the commandant, which is not easily obtained. 
 The summit was formerly occupied by Le Calvaire , a monastery 
 erected in the reign of Louis XIII., and a favourite resort of 
 
236 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 pilgrims. Napoleon I. caused the building to be demolished, 
 and an establishment for the education of daughters of members 
 of the Legion of Honour to be erected on the site. Under the 
 Restoration the hill came into the possession of the Peres de la 
 Foi , and was again frequented by pilgrims. These ecclesiastics 
 were dispersed by the Revolution of July, and ten years later the 
 fortifications were begun. In 1870—71 the fort played a pro¬ 
 minent part in both the sieges of Paris. On the final re-establish¬ 
 ment of peace on 28th May, 1871, it was little more than a heap 
 of ruins, but is to be restored. 
 
 The train next stops at Montretout, the station for St. Cloud 
 (p. 254), passes through a short tunnel, skirts the deer-park of 
 the chateau, and then enters a second tunnel. To the r. of the 
 line lies the pleasant village of Ville d’Array , the station for 
 Sevres (p. 256). Beyond Chaville the train reaches the viaduct 
 which crosses the high road and unites the lines of the right and 
 left banks. 
 
 The station of the Rive Droite line at Versailles is nearly 
 1 M. distant from the palace (omnibus 30 c.), on the way to 
 which the traveller passes an open space adorned, on the r., with 
 Lemaire’s Statue of General Hoche , ‘ne it Versailles le 24 Juin 1768, 
 soldat h 16 ans , gene'ral en chef it 25 , mort it 29 , pacificateur de 
 la Vende'e'. Another monument to the memory of this illustrious 
 soldier has been erected near Neuwied on the Rhine, where, shortly 
 before his sudden death at Wetzlar, he had crossed the river and 
 repulsed the Austrian forces. 
 
 Rive Gauche (Gare du Mont Parnasse, 35 min. drive from the 
 Bourse; PL, blue, 6; seep. 26), or railway on the left bank of 
 the Seine. Trains from Paris every hour from 7. 5 a. m. till 11.5 
 p. m., and another at 12. 40 a. m.; from Versailles every hour 
 from 6. 35 a. m. till 10. 35 p. m., and one more at 11 p. m. (on 
 Sundays and holidays 11. 25). Fares the same as by the Rive 
 Droite; return-tickets available for either line. The finest views 
 are to the right. 
 
 On the way to the station, in the Rue de Sevres, adjoining 
 the Hopital des Incurables (Femmes), the traveller will observe a 
 handsome fountain with a figure of an Egyptian woman pouring 
 water out of two vessels. The Cemetery of Montparnasse (p.228) 
 is near this station. 
 
 The line skirts the village of Issy, where on 3rd July, 1815, 
 the last struggle for the possession of Paris took place between 
 Bliicher and Davoust. On the same day the capitulation of Paris 
 was signed. On the <ield of battle afterwards rose the Fort d'Issy , 
 forming part of the fortifications of Paris, which was entirely 
 destroyed during the sieges of 1870—71. Clamart is the station 
 for Vanves, Issy, and Chatillon. All these villages suffered severely 
 during the Prussian bombardment. The railway-station was com- 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 237 
 
 pletely swept away, and many of the houses of Clamart destroyed. 
 The scene of desolation was greatly aggravated by the events of 
 the second siege, when the forts of Issy and Vanves were occupied 
 by the insurgents, and finally destroyed by the Versailles troops. 
 Near the station is a hydropathic establishment. The line skirts 
 the hills above the Seine, affording a fine view of Paris and the 
 course of the river. 
 
 At Meudon are the ruins of an imperial chateau, where the 
 Empress Marie Louise resided with the king of Rome during the 
 Russian campaign in 1812. It was afterwards a summer residence 
 of Prince Napoleon, but was set on fire by a shell and reduced 
 to a heap of ruins during the Prussian bombardment of Paris in 
 1871. The terrace below it was used by the Prussians for the 
 construction of extensive and formidable earthworks, from which 
 the most persistent cannonade from Issy and the other forts failed 
 to dislodge them. A powerful battery of 20 guns planted here 
 completely commanded Boulogne, Billancourt, Le Point-du-Jour, 
 Auteuil, Grenelle, Vaugirard , and Issy. At a later period (3rd 
 April) the insurgents, aware of the importance of the position, 
 endeavoured to capture it, but were driven back by the government 
 troops. The walls of the terrace, as well as many neighbouring 
 houses, bear numerous marks of balls and shells. 
 
 Bellevue is the station for the palace of St. Cloud (p. 254), 
 about 1 */ 4 M. distant. Near the station is situated a small Gothic 
 chapel, dedicated to Notre Dume des Flammes. It commemorates 
 a frightful railway catastrophe, 8th May, 1842. A long passenger- 
 train, drawn by one engine in front and propelled by another 
 behind, got off the rails, and the second engine forced the 
 carriages into a confused heap. The train then caught fire, and 
 upwards of 200 persons perished, among whom was Admiral 
 d’Urville (p. 229). The circumstance that all the carriage doors 
 were locked , a practice now abandoned in France, contributed 
 greatly to increase the loss of life. 
 
 The next stations are Sevres (p. 256), Chaville, Virofluy , and 
 then Versailles. The station of the Rive Gauche line is about 
 */2 M. distant from the palace. 
 
 Tramway (Chemin de Fer Americain) , starting from Rue du 
 Louvre 2 , opposite the colonnade, and following the high road from 
 Paris to Versailles by Sevres. Cars every hour from 8 a. nr. till dusk ; 
 fare inside 1 fr., outside or ‘impe'riale’, 80 c.; on Sundays and 
 festivals 1 fr. 10 c. or 90 c.; to Sevres in 80 min., to Versailles in 
 13/ 4 hr. 
 
 The high-road is always the scene of busy traffic. For a long 
 distance it skirts the Seine, passing the bridges at the W. end of the 
 city, and the almost unbroken rows of houses belonging to the 
 suburbs of Passy and Auteuil , which are much frequented by the 
 Parisians in summer, and were once favourite resorts of Boileau, 
 
238 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 Lafontaine, Racine, and Molicve. The road now crosses the fortifica¬ 
 tions (the road to St. Cloud diverges to the r.), crosses the 
 Seine, and reaches Sevres. The drive from Sevres to Versailles 
 occupies 25 min. more; the road passes under the railway viaduct, 
 and soon reaches the Avenue de Paris. 
 
 Versailles. Hotels. "Hotel des Reservoirs, Rue des Reservoirs 9; 
 "Hotel de France, Place d’Armes 5, on the r. on the way to the Chateau; 
 Hotel du Sabot d’Or, Rue du Plessis 23, near the market. — Restaurants. 
 Gervais, at the Rive Droite station; du Globe, or Lourdaut, at the same 
 station (dej. 2 l |2, D. 3 fr.); de Londves, Rue Colbert 7, adjoining the 
 Hotel de France; du Coing , at the Rive Gauche station. — Cafes. 
 Duriavx , Rue de la Pompe 44; de la Comidie , in the park, near the 
 Bassin du Dragon, with another entrance in the Rue des Reservoirs. 
 
 Versailles is indebted for its origin to Louis XIV. That mon¬ 
 arch, like his predecessors, had resided at St. Germain in summer 
 during the first years of his reign, but is said to have conceived a 
 dislike to it as it commanded a view of the tower of St. Denis, 
 the royal burying-place. Versailles is situated in an unfavourable 
 site for a town, and still more so for a park, as the water for 
 its ornamental ponds had to be conveyed to it by aqueducts all 
 the way from Marly (p. 259) at a great expense. The town was 
 called by Voltaire ‘ Vabime des defenses , on account of its palace 
 and park having cost the enormous sum of 400 million francs; 
 and at least as great a sum has been expended on their main¬ 
 tenance by subsequent monarchs. 
 
 Near the statue of Hoche (p. 236) is the Church of Notre 
 Dame, erected by Mansart in 1684, containing in the second 
 chapel to the 1. the monument of the Comte de Vergennes{d. 1787), 
 minister of Louis XVI. 
 
 In the Quartier St. Louis, the S. part of the town, not far 
 from the palace, is the Jeu de Paume, or tennis-court, memorable 
 for the famous meeting held in it by the National Assembly on 
 23rd June 1789, in which the Marquis de Dreux-Bre'zd appeared 
 as the king’s deputy and pronounced the assembly dissolved, but 
 received the audacious reply from Mirabeau: ‘Allez dire k votre 
 maitre que nous sommes ici par la volonte' du peuple, et que nous 
 n’en sortirons que par la force des bayonnettes’. 
 
 Notwithstanding its 61,688 inhabitants, its vast'— 
 
 Palace, erected in 1660—1710 by Mansard, its gardens, 
 and its villas, Versailles offers little attraction beyond its in¬ 
 comparable — 
 
 **Musee Historique, founded by Louis Philippe, and occupying 
 an almost interminable suite of apartments in the palace. In 
 1832 these rooms were entirely refitted, and adorned with historical 
 pictures brought from the Louvre and other palaces, the deficien¬ 
 cies being supplied by works of the most eminent living artists. 
 'The foundation of the museum is said to have cost 15 million fr., 
 the funds being derived from the civil list. Subsequent govern- 
 
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37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 239 
 
 meats have left undisturbed the original arrangements of the 
 museum, and have greatly enriched and extended it. 
 
 The gallery of Versailles may be regarded as a collection of 
 modern pictures and sculptures, but as the historical object 
 was always predominant, numerous works were necessarily re¬ 
 ceived without much regard to their merits as works of art. 
 The critical eye will therefore detect very inferior productions 
 intermingled with the efforts of transcendant genius. 
 
 The galleries are open daily, except Mondays, from 12 to 4 o’clock. 
 The number of pictures and sculptures is so overwhelming, that 
 the traveller will And one visit totally inadequate for the examin¬ 
 ation even of the most celebrated works. A walk through the 
 whole suite of apartments without stopping takes l 1 /) hr. Many of 
 the rooms, however, are at present closed to the public , having 
 been used since the war as public offices of various kinds. 
 
 On reaching the entrance to the palace the traveller is im¬ 
 portuned by hawkers to purchase their old, imperfect, or spurious 
 catalogues, which are often bound in new covers. The best 
 selection of catalogues and descriptive works on Versailles is to 
 be found in the entrance-hall of the palace itself, where in pur¬ 
 chasing a catalogue care should be taken to choose one which 
 embraces the whole collection. As, however, each picture is 
 furnished with the name of the artist and of the subject, a 
 catalogue may well be dispensed with by all ordinary visitors. 
 
 From 19th Sept. 1870 to (5th March 1871 the palace was the 
 head-quarters of the King of Prussia, and a great part of the edifice 
 was used as a military hospital, the pictures being carefully 
 covered to protect them from injury. Here, too, a most im¬ 
 pressive scene took place on 18th Jan., 1871, when the Prussian 
 monarch, by the unanimous consent of the German states, was 
 saluted as Emperor of Germany. To describe minutely all the 
 events which occurred at Versailles during the above period would 
 be to write a history of the Franco-Prussian war, a task far 
 beyond the scope of the Handbook. Suffice it to say that this 
 town, usually so dull and peaceful, then formed the great centre 
 of operation of the most remarkable war ever witnessed in the 
 world’s history, while a little later it became the seat of the 
 new French Republican government, whose political efforts have 
 been beset with so many overwhelming difficulties. The Chamber 
 of Deputies still holds its meetings in the palace, but several of 
 the government offices, which were established here after the war, 
 have since been re-transferred to the capital. 
 
 The Palace Court is entered by a gateway, with pillars 
 adorned by groups emblematical of the victories of Louis XIV. 
 over Austria (to the r., eagle) and Spain (to the L, lion). In the 
 court are placed two rows of colossal Statues , some of which 
 stood on the Pont de la Concorde in Paris down to 1837. On the 
 
240 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 right: Bayard (d. 1524), the ‘chevalier sans pour ot sans 
 reproche’; Colbert (d. 1683), the able finance minister of 
 Louis XIV.; Cardinal Richelieu (d. 1642), regent of France 
 under Louis XIII.; Marshal Jourdan (d. 1833); Marshal Mas- 
 sena (d. 1817); Admiral Tourville (d. 1701); Admiral Dugay- 
 Trouin (d. 1736); Marshal Turenne (d. 1675). On the left: 
 Bertrand Duguesclin (d. 1380), Conne'table of France (p. 262); 
 Sully (d. 1641), the celebrated minister of Henri IV. ; Suger 
 (d. 1152), Abbot of St. Denis and regent under Louis VII.; 
 Marshal Lannes (d. 1809); Marshal Mortier (d. 1835); Admiral 
 Suffren (d. 1789); Admiral Duquesne (d. 1687); the Great Conde 
 (d. 1686), general of Louis XIV. 
 
 In the centre of the court stands a colossal Equestrian Statue 
 of Louis XIV. in bronze, the horse by Cartellier , the figure by 
 Petitot. On the facade of the palace is the inscription, l A toutes 
 les gloires de la France.' 
 
 Beyond the statue is the Cour Royale , and farther back the Cour 
 de Marbre , so called from its marble pavement. The usual en¬ 
 trance of the palace is from the Cour de la Chapelle , to the right, 
 but the entrance used at present is in the Cour des Princes , the 
 corresponding court on the opposite side, to the 1. of the facade. 
 Umbrellas, when wet, must be given into the custody of an attendant 
 (10 c.). The ground floor is at present closed to the public, and 
 there arc also several rooms on the first floor to which they are not 
 admitted. As, however, it is hoped that these apartments, which 
 contain a number of fine works, will be re-opened at no very distant 
 day, a description of them is given here in the order formerly pre¬ 
 scribed. Attendants are posted at intervals to indicate the route. 
 Catalogues of every description and views of Versailles are sold in 
 the vestibule at the entrance to the galleries. 
 
 If, as was the case from 1871 to the spring of 1874, a part only 
 of the gallery is shown, our visit will begin with the Galerie des 
 Batailles, p. 246. 
 
 The chief objects of interest, whether historical or artistic, are 
 enumerated in the following pages; but those who are unable 
 to pay more than one visit to Versailles had better direct 
 their attention almost exclusively to those works denoted in the 
 Handbook by asterisks. Those whose time is more ample should 
 devote their first visit to a walk through all the apartments , in 
 order to obtain a general idea of the whole, and subsequent 
 visits to the examination of works in which they are specially 
 interested. 
 
 From the Vestibule de la Chapelle we first enter a series of 
 eleven rooms containing pictures of historical interest, from Char¬ 
 lemagne down to Louis XIV. inclusive. 
 
 I. Room. Ary Scheffer (painted in 1827) , Charlemagne laying 
 his capitularies, or laws and decrees, before the Frankish diet 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 241 
 
 in 779. Rouget , St. Louis (d. 1270) mediating between the 
 King of England and his barons. 
 
 II. Room. Brenet , Taking of Chateau Neuf, and Death of Du 
 Guesclin. Vinchon, Charles VII. anointed at Rheims, 1429. 
 Barthelemy , Entry of the French army into Paris, 1436. 
 
 III. Room. Jollivet , Battle of Agnadello, 1509. Lariviere , 
 Taking of Brescia, 1512. 
 
 IV. Room. Ary Scheffer (1824), Gaston de Foix’s death at 
 the Battle of Ravenna, 1512. Schnetz , Battle of C6risolles, 
 1544. 
 
 V. Room. Large pictures of little artistic value. 
 
 VI. Room. Small battle-scenes from Turenne’s campaign in 
 the Palatinate in 1644; among them those of Lichtenau, Baden, 
 and Freiburg. 
 
 VII. Room. The Crossing of the Rhine below Emmerich (see 
 p. 65), 1672. Other scenes from the campaigns of 1644—45; 
 Worms, Spires, Mayence, Bingen. 
 
 VIII. Room. Similar pictures from the campaigns of 1672—77. 
 *Oallait (1837), Battle of Cassel in Flanders. Mannheim, Wesel, 
 Emmerich, Sinzheim. 
 
 IX. Room. Similar pictures: Freiburg, Philippsburg. 
 
 X. and XI. Rooms. Large pictures from the campaign in the 
 Netherlands , of no great artistic merit. In the XI. Room: 225. 
 Hersent (1817), Louis XVI. and his family distributing alms 
 (1788). 
 
 Beyond these rooms is the Oalerie des Tombeaux, containing 
 busts and statues, with the entrance to the Theatre, where the 
 injudicious fete to the Garde du Corps was given by the court in 
 October, 1789. This is at present the assembly-hall of the 
 deputies, for whom this entrance is reserved. Visitors enter from 
 the Cour du Maroc, in the Rue des Reservoirs (tickets obtainable at 
 the ‘Questure’). 
 
 The five **Sallfs i>fs Croisadfs which are next entered arc 
 remarkable for their sumptuous decoration, and the magnificent 
 modern pictures they contain : — 
 
 *lst Saloon. Larivilre , Battle of Ascalon, 1099. *Hesse, Tak¬ 
 ing of Beyrout, 1197. OaLlait (1847'), Coronation of Count Bald¬ 
 win of Flanders as Greek Emperor, 1204. 
 
 *2nd Saloon. Rouget, Louis IX. receiving the emissaries of 
 the ‘Old Man of the Mountain’ 1251. Jacquand, Taking of 
 Jerusalem by Jacques de Molay , Grand Master of the Templars, 
 1299. Lepoittevin, Naval Battle of Embro, 1346. 
 
 3rd Saloon. *Schnetz, Battle of Ascalon, 1099. Signal (1804), 
 St. Bernhard preaching the Second Crusade at Vezelay in Bur¬ 
 gundy, 1146. 
 
 **4th Saloon. Among the armorial bearings on the pillars 
 are those of Frederick Barbarossa, Emp. Conrad III., and Richard 
 
 Basdekek. Paris. 4th Edition. 16 
 
242 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 Coeur de Lion. A mortar from the island of Rhodes, and the 
 gates of the hospital of the knights of St. John , from Rhodes, 
 presented by Sultan Mahmoud to Prince Joinville in 1836, are also 
 preserved here. Also casts of the monuments of three grand 
 masters of the Maltese order. Eug. Delacroix (1841), Taking of 
 Constantinople 1204. *Blondel, Surrender of Ptolemais to Philip 
 Augustus and Richard Coeur de Lion. Larivi'ere, Raising of the 
 siege of Rhodes, 1480. Larivi'ere , Raising of the siege of Malta, 
 1565. Horace Vernet , Battle of Toulouse, 1212. Schnetz , Pro¬ 
 cession of Crusaders round Jerusalem. 
 
 5th Saloon. Signol, Crusaders crossing the Bosphorus under 
 Godfrey de Bouillon, 1097. Opposite: Signol, Taking of Jerusalem, 
 1099; the Christians returning thanks for the victory. R. Fleury , 
 Baldwin enters Edessa. Hesse, Adoption of Godfrey de Bouillon 
 by the Greek Emp. Alexander Comnenus, 1097. *Gallait, Taking 
 of Antioch, 1098. 
 
 Leaving the 5th Saloon, we re-enter the gallery above men¬ 
 tioned and return by it to the entrance-vestibule (p. 240). 
 
 We next ascend a spiral staircase. At the entrance of the 
 first room we observe statues by Pradier of General Damremont, 
 who fell in 1837 at the siege of Constantine, and the Due de 
 Montpensier (d. 1807), brother of Louis Philippe. 
 
 The suite of apartments now entered contains some of the 
 finest pictures in the collection, among which are the Algerian 
 Scenes by Horace Vernet. 
 
 1st Room. Principal wall: Chr. Muller, Opening of the Cham¬ 
 bers on 29th March 1852. Vernet, Marshals Bosquet, Regnauld de 
 St. Jean d’Angely, Niel, Forey, and Mac Mahon, and Admiral 
 Bre'at. Rivoulon , Battle of the Alma. Several pictures, repre¬ 
 senting the battles of Balaclava, Magenta, Solferino. and others, by 
 Jumel , a French staff-officer, are interesting on account of the 
 accurate delineation of the ground and the positions of the troops. 
 Dubuffe, Congress of Paris, 1856. 
 
 2nd Room: Yvon, Retreat from Russia, 1812. Vernet, Storm¬ 
 ing of the ‘Mamelon Vert’ at Sebastopol. 
 
 **3rdRoom: Horace Vernet (1845), Taking of the Srnalah of 
 Abd-el-Kader (16th May, 1843), a magnificent picture 86 ft. in 
 length and 16 ft. in height, containing numerous portraits, to 
 which the sketch below is a key. The ‘Smalah’ of Abd-el-Kader, 
 consisting of his camp, his itinerant residence, his court, harem, 
 and treasury, and upwards of 20,000 persons, including the chiefs 
 of the principal tribes with their families, was taken by sur¬ 
 prise on this occasion by the Due d’Aumale at the head of 
 two cavalry regiments. Booty of enormous value and 5000 pris¬ 
 oners were the prize acquired with so little difficulty. Abd-el- 
 Kader himself was absent at the time. ■— Vernet (1846), Battle 
 of Isly, 14th Aug. 1844, won by Marshal Bugeaud; among the 
 
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244 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 figures are portraits of Cavaignac and Lamoriciere. Beauce, 
 Taking of Fort St. Xavier, near Puebla, 1864. Vernet, Storm¬ 
 ing of one of tlie bastions at the siege of Rome, 30th June, 
 1849, in consequence of which the city was compelled to capit¬ 
 ulate. Beauce , Entry into Mexico, 1864. — On the right: 
 Beauce , Storming and capture of Laghouat, 4th Dec., 1852. 
 Tissier , Napoleon III. liberating Abd-el-Kader. Vernet, Marshal 
 Pe'lissier. Tissier, portrait of Abd-el-Kader. 
 
 **401 Room : Seven large and seven small pictures by Horace 
 Vernet: Battle of the Habrah, 3rd Dec., 1835. Siege of Con¬ 
 stantine, 10th Oct., 1837: in the foreground a churchyard, the 
 tombstones of which are being used in constructing intrench- 
 ments; to the 1. Constantine; a battalion of the Foreign Legion 
 and another of the 26th light infantry engaged in action; near 
 two cypresses the Due de Nemours with his staff; General Dam- 
 remont reconnoitring, beside him General Rulliere. Prepara¬ 
 tions for the assault, 13th Oct., 1837: in the foreground the 
 breaching battery; near one of the guns General Valltfe, com¬ 
 mander of the besiegers under the Due de Nemours; to the 1. 
 General Caraman , commander of the artillery; to the r. General 
 Fleury of the engineers; in front the Due de Nemours, Colonel 
 Lamoriciere at the head of the Zouaves; in the central group 
 the English Lieutenant Temple and other foreign officers. Taking 
 of Constantine, 13th Oct., 1837: in the centre Colonel Combes 
 turning to those following him; above him to the r. Lamori¬ 
 ciere at the head of the Zouaves; the drum-major with conscious 
 dignity at the head of his drummers and trumpeters. Attack on 
 the Mexican fort St. Jean d’Ulloa by Admiral Baudin, 27th Nov., 
 1838; the vessel was commanded by the Prince de Joinville. 
 Storming of the pass of Tenia Mouzajah, 12th May, 1840. Siege 
 of the citadel of Antwerp, 1832. 
 
 *5th Room : Yvon, Entrance to the Malakoff tower; Storming 
 of the Malakoff; Curtain of the Malakoff; Battle of the Alma; 
 Battle of Solferino ; Battle of Magenta. Barrias, Disembarkation 
 of the army on the coast of the Crimea. 
 
 6 th Room: *Bouchot, Bonaparte dissolving the Council of 
 Five Hundred, 9th Nov., 1799. Vinchon, Louis XVIII. tendering 
 the ‘Charte’ of the constitution, and opening the Chambers. Cou¬ 
 rier, ‘Fete de la Federation’ in the Champ de Mars, 14th July, 
 1790. *Couder, Oath taken on 20th June, 1789, by the National 
 Assembly in the Jeu de Paume (p. 238) , ‘de ne jamais se separer, 
 de se rassembler partout oil les circonstances l’exigeront, jusqu’a ce 
 que la Constitution du royaume soit etablie et affermie sur des fon- 
 dements solides’. Couder, Institution of the Conseil d’Etat, 1799. 
 
 7th Room : *1Steuben, Battle of Ivry, 1590; Henri IV. rallying 
 his followers with the words, ‘Si les cornettes vous manquent, 
 ralliez-vous a mon panache blanc, il vous me'nera toujours dans le 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 245 
 
 chemin de Phonneur’. Vinchon, Departure of the National Guard 
 for the army, 1792. 
 
 The long gallery of Statues is now entered. *Pradier, Mon¬ 
 ument of the Duke of Orleans (p. 127), the figure in a sitting 
 posture , with reliefs relating to the sieges of Antwerp and Con¬ 
 stantine. As companions to those mentioned at p. 242: Dumont , 
 Marshal Bugeaud; Pradier, Count Beaujolais (d. 1808), brother of 
 Louis Philippe. — At the end of the gallery an admirable 
 statue of **Joan of Arc by the Princess Marie of Orleans 
 (d. 1839), daughter of Louis Philippe, and wife of Duke Alex¬ 
 ander of Wurtemberg. 
 
 Ascending to the second floor and entering the Salle des 
 Academiciens to the right, we find a series of Portraits of emin¬ 
 ent French civilians, from the beginning of the 16th cent, to 
 the present day. The following eight Salles des portraits histori- 
 ques anterieurs h 1790, and a long gallery contain portraits of histo¬ 
 rical value only, and also a collection of coins. 
 
 Descending to the first floor, we next enter ten rooms with 
 pictures representing events between the years 1800 and 1835. 
 
 1st Room ("1830—1835): Court, Louis Philippe signing the 
 well known proclamation of 31st July, 1830, ending with the 
 words : ‘La Cliarte sera desormais une verite' . The portraits de¬ 
 serve inspection. 
 
 2nd Room (1825—1830): Gerard, Coronation of Charles X. 
 at Rheims. Horace Vernet, Charles X. reviewing the National 
 Guard in the Champ de Mars. 
 
 3rd Room (1814—1823): Paul Delaroche , Storming of the 
 Trocadero near Cadiz, under the Duke of Angouleme. — Gros, 
 Louis XVIII. quitting the Tuileries on the night of 19th March, 
 1815, on being apprised of Napoleon’s approach. 
 
 4th Room (1813, 1814): Copy from Horace Vernet by Henri 
 Scheffer , Battle of Montmirail; Napoleon against the Russians: 
 in the foreground chasseurs of the old guard charging. Copy 
 from Horace Vernet by Feron, Battle of Hanau, Napoleon against 
 the Bavarians: in the foreground General Drouot attacked by 
 Bavarian light cavalry. Beaume, Battle of Liitzen, Napoleon 
 against the Prussians and Russians under Bliicher, York, and 
 Wittgenstein: in the foreground Prussian and Russian prisoners. 
 
 5th Room (1810—1812): Langlois, Battle of Borodino, on 
 the Moskowa. 
 
 6th Room (1809): Meynier, Napoleon in the island of Lobau 
 after the battle of Essling. Bellange, Battle of Wagram, a bird's 
 eye view. Gautherot, Napoleon wounded on the battle-field of 
 Ratisbon (engravings from this picture are common). 
 
 7th Room (1807 —1809): Hersent, Taking of Landshut. — 
 Thivenin, Taking of Ratisbon. 
 
 8 th Room (1806, 1807): Camus, Napoleon at the tomb of 
 
246 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 Frederick the Great at Potsdam. — Vafflard, Destruction of the 
 monument on the battle-field of Rossbach , where the French had 
 been defeated by Frederick the Great in 1757. Over the door: 
 Rcchn, Military hospital in the chateau of Marienburg, occu¬ 
 pied by Russians and French after the battle of Friedland. 
 
 9tli Room (1800 — 1805): Taunay , The French entering 
 Munich. 
 
 10th Room (1800): Campaigns in Egypt and Italy. Lunglois, 
 Battle of Benouth. 
 
 As these rooms are quitted, a glimpse of the Chapel may be 
 obtained from above. 
 
 The following Salon d'Hercule contains a portrait of Louis XIV., 
 and a large picture representing the Passage of the Rhine (p. 241). 
 
 In the small room next entered: Siege of Freiburg in 1677, 
 painted at that date by Van der Meulen. 
 
 The next two rooms contain drawings in crayon, chiefly 
 from the campaigns in the Netherlands of 1745 and 1746. 
 
 Next, a ^Corner Room, with the inscription, ‘ t,tats gene- 
 raux, Parlements, Lits de Justice ’, containing a number of large 
 pictures: *Couder, Opening of the States General, 5th May, 
 1789. The frieze running round the room, painted by Bellange in 
 1837, represents the Procession of the States General to the Church 
 of Notre Dame at Versailles, by Bellange. 
 
 The following Salons de Venus, de Diane, de Mars, de Mer- 
 cure, d’Apollon, and de la Guerre, chiefly contain large pictures 
 by Van der Meulen, of scenes from the Netherlands campaigns 
 of Louis XIV. 
 
 The Galerie des Glaces which follows is described at p. 248. 
 
 The ** Galerif, des Batailles, a magnificent hall in two com¬ 
 partments, is now entered. It contains 33 chefs d’oeuvre of 
 modern painters and busts of 80 celebrated generals who have 
 fallen in battle, their names being inscribed on tablets in the 
 window-recesses. 
 
 Left: *Ary Scheffer, Battle of Tolbiac, near Cologne, 496. 
 
 L. *Steuben, Battle of Tours, 732. 
 
 Right: **Horace Vernet , Battle of Wagram, second day, 1809. 
 
 L. Ary Scheffer, Submission of the Saxon Duke Wittekind to 
 Charlemagne, 785. 
 
 R. Horace Vernet, Battle of Friedland, 1807. 
 
 L. *Schnetz, Eudes, Count of Paris, delivers the city from the 
 Normans, 888. 
 
 It. Horace Vernet, Napoleon addressing the Guards before the 
 battle of Jena, 1806. 
 
 L. **. Horace Vernet, Philip Augustus defeats the Barons at the 
 battle of Bouvines, 1214. 
 
 R. Gerard, Battle of Austerlitz, 1805. 
 
 L. Eug. Delacroix, Battle of Taillebourg, 1242. 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 217 
 
 L. Henri Scheffer, Battle 'of Cassel in Flanders, 1328. 
 
 R. Philippoteaux , Battle of Rivoli, 1797. 
 
 L. H. Scheffer, Joan of Arc raising the siege of Orleans, 1429. 
 
 R. Couder, Siege of Yorktown in America, under General 
 Rochambeau and Washington, 1781. 
 
 R. Couder, Battle of La?ffelt, or Lawfeld, near Maistriclit, 1747. 
 
 L. Gerard, Henri IV. entering Paris, 1594. 
 
 R. **Horace Vernet, Battle of Fontenoy, in which the English 
 were defeated by Marshal Saxe, 1745. 
 
 L. Heim, Battle of Rocroy, Condd defeats the Spaniards, 1643. 
 
 R. Alaux, Battle of Denain, Marshal Villars defeats Prince 
 Eugene, 1712. 
 
 The *Salle de 1830, which is next entered, contains five large 
 pictures referring to the ‘July Monarchy’: — 
 
 Larivi'ere , Arrival of the Duke of Orleans at the Place de 
 l’Hotel de Ville; to the 1. by the door of the building is La¬ 
 fayette in the uniform of the National Guard, with his hat in 
 his hand. 
 
 Gerard , Reading of the declaration of the deputies, and 
 proclamation of the Duke of Orleans as ‘lieutenant-ge'ne'ral du 
 royaume’. 
 
 Ary Scheffer , Louis Philippe as ‘lieutenant-general’, ac¬ 
 companied by the Duke of Nemours, receiving his eldest son 
 the Duke of Chartres, afterwards Duke of Orleans, at the head 
 of his regiment of hussars. 
 
 Eugene Deveria, Louis Philippe proclaimed king, and swear¬ 
 ing fidelity to the charter in presence of the Chambers and his 
 whole family. 
 
 Court, The King distributes flags to the National Guard in 
 the Champ de Mars. All these pictures deserve careful exami¬ 
 nation, as they contain portraits of celebrated historical characters. 
 
 Passing through the door to the left, we enter a corridor, pass 
 through a small door to the r., and ascend by a stair to the second 
 floor. On the staircase: Vernet, Pope Gregory XII.; Decaisne, 
 Death of Louis XIII. We now enter the Galerie des portraits de 
 personnages celebres, a series of apartments containing an immense 
 number of portraits, a few only of which nead be mentioned. 
 
 II. Room. Before the second window, Innocent X. (d. 1655) 
 and Boileau (d. 1721). On the 1., Maria Theresa of Austria, 
 Queen of France (d. 1683). To the 1., on the wall of the door. 
 Locke (d. 1704); on the r., Newton (d. 1727). 
 
 III. Room. On the 1. Louis XV. (d. 1774); r. Frederick Augus¬ 
 tus I., King of Poland (d. 1763); to the 1. of the door, 
 Louis XIV.; to the r. Maria Lesczinska (d. 1768). 
 
 IV. Room. On the 1. Frederick the Great (d. 1786); to the 
 r., opposite, Linnams (d. 1778). To the r., farther on, Washing- 
 
248 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 ton and other American celebrities, down to Presidents Jackson 
 and Polk. Between the two groups formed by these portraits, Marie 
 Antoinette Id. 1793) by Mme. Lebrun. On the same side, Souf¬ 
 flot (d. 1781), architect of the Pantheon. Opposite the first por¬ 
 trait of Washington, Emp. Joseph II. (d. 1790); Klopstock (d. 
 1803), the German poet; Mme. Roland, guillotined in 1793; Mi- 
 rabeau (d. 1791); Charlotte Corday, who stabbed the infamous 
 Marat, guillotined in 1793. On the wall of the door, Napoleon, 
 First Consul, and his mother Laetitia Ramolino (d. 1836). 
 
 Salle des Anglais. *Queen Victoria and *Prince Albert (d. 
 1861), both painted in 1842 by Winterhalter. Ernest Augustus, 
 king of Hanover (d. 1851), Pitt, Fox, and others. 
 
 The two Salles des Residences Royales formerly contained por¬ 
 traits of the Napoleon family, including David’s fine portrait of 
 Napoleon, as First Consul, on the St. Bernard, but these have 
 been removed to another room on the second floor, which is at 
 present closed. 
 
 The two Galeries des Portraits de l'Empire et de la Restau- 
 ration contain the ‘Birth of the king of Rome’, by Rouget, and 
 portraits of the Sultan Selim III. (d. 1808), Feth - Ali - Shah 
 (d. 1834), king of Persia, Pius VII., and Cardinal Fesh, uncle 
 of Napoleon I. 
 
 In the last room: Madame Campan (d. 1822); *Pope Gre¬ 
 gory XVI. Id. 1846), by Paul Delaroche; the Duke of Angou- 
 leme (d. 1844), before the battle of Villaviciosa, a large painting 
 by Paul Delaroche; the Duchess de Berri with her two children, 
 the Duke of Bordeaux, and the last Duchess of Parma,; Pope Pius IX. 
 with several cardinals, by Horace Vernet. 
 
 In the last small room is a picture by Heim , representing a 
 lecture delivered by Professor Andrieux, containing 46 portraits 
 of eminent authors, actors, and actresses. 
 
 Retracing our steps we enter a suite of rooms opposite, named 
 the Petits Appartements de Louis XIV. —I. Salle des Gardes, a large 
 square room. — II. Antechamber. These rooms are both adorned 
 with battles of Louis XIV. — III. Second antechamber, the Oeil 
 deBoeuf , so called fromits oval window, and bedroom of Louis XIV., 
 where the courtiers used to await the ‘lever’ of the king, and 
 celebrated as the scene of numerous intrigues. The furniture is 
 nearly in the same condition as it was at that period. From the 
 balcony of this apartment, on 1st Sept., 1715, the king’s cham¬ 
 berlain publicly announced the death of Louis XIV. by exclaiming 
 ‘Le roi est mort /’, at the same time breaking his wand of 
 office; then taking another, he exclaimed, ‘ Vive le Roi!' — 
 IV. Salle du Conseil, or des Pendules, containing a time-piece with 
 very ingenious mechanism, constructed in 1706. 
 
 The *Galerie des Glaces, or de Louis XIV., which we next visit, 
 is a superb hall, 80 yds. in length and 41 ft. in height, command- 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 249 
 
 ing a beautiful view of the garden and its ornamental sheets of 
 water from the seventeen large arched windows, opposite which are 
 as many mirrors in gilded niches. The ceiling is adorned with paint¬ 
 ings by Lebrun and Van der Meulen relating to the reign of 
 Louis XIV. This gallery with a room at each end occupies the 
 whole length of the facade next the garden. The room to the r., 
 as we face the windows, called the Salon de la Guerre from the 
 subjects of its ceiling painting, communicates with the Grands 
 Appartements du Roi, which are at present closed. We now 
 proceed to the Salon de la Paix at the other end of the gallery, in 
 order to visit the S. wing of the palace. 
 
 This wing contains a series of apartments, chiefly adorned with 
 large pictures by Van der Meulen, a contemporary of Louis XIV., 
 representing scenes from the life of that monarch. The first two of 
 these rooms were once the sleeping apartment and drawing-room of 
 Marie Antoinette. *Gerard, The Duke of Anjou proclaimed king 
 of Spain as Philip V., 16th Nov., 1700. 
 
 4th Room, ‘Salle des Gardes de la Reine’, richly decorated, con¬ 
 taining a series of busts and a statue of Louis XV. 
 
 5th Room, ‘Salle du Sacre de Napoleon’: *David, Coronation 
 of Napoleon and Josephine at Notre Dame, 2nd Dec., 1804. *I)avid, 
 Napoleon distributing the Eagles to the army. Gros , Battle of 
 Aboukir, 1799. 
 
 6 th Room. Campaigns of 1792, 1793: *Lami, Battle of 
 Hondschoten and Watignies. 
 
 Small room to the left. Campaigns of 1793, 1794: *Bellange, 
 Battle of Fleurus, the Austrians under Prince Coburg defeated 
 by the French under Marshal Jourdan. 
 
 *8th Room (1792): Portraits of celebrated soldiers, who after¬ 
 wards became emperors, kings, marshals, etc., represented accord¬ 
 ing to the rank they held in 1792. Above the door: Bonaparte, 
 ‘lieutenant-colonel’; Murat, ‘sous-lieutenant’; Bernadotte, ‘lieu¬ 
 tenant’; then Gdrard , ‘volontaire’; Soult and Junot, ‘sergents’, 
 and many others. Among the large paintings here we observe two 
 copies from Horace Vernet, the Cannonade of Valmy, and Battle 
 of Jemappes, at both of which Louis Philippe distinguished him¬ 
 self. HiS portrait is also here, to the L, as ‘Louis Philippe 
 d’Orle'ans, due de Chartres, lieutenant-gtfntfral’. Cogniet , De¬ 
 parture of the National Guard to join the army. 
 
 A few steps to the left ascend to the Salle des gouaches et 
 aquarelles des cumpugnes de 1796 ii 1814, at present closed. 
 In the first room, pictures of French uniforms, and sketches in 
 watercolours by French staff-officers, interesting on account of 
 the subjects alone. 
 
 Returning to the Salle du Sacre, we now descend by a hand¬ 
 some marble stair to the Ground Floor, turn to the r. into the 
 Vestibule des Amiraux with its numerous busts, and enter the 
 
250 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 apartments in the central part of the palace, which contain an 
 interminable series of Admirals and Constables in the first two, 
 and Marshals of France in those following, many of them being 
 full length portraits. The marshals whose portraits it has been 
 impossible to obtain are commemorated by inscriptions. 
 
 6 th Room. *Count Rantzau (d. 1650), a German who quitted 
 the Swedish service for that of France in 1635, and afterwards 
 commanded the corps of Bernard de Weimar. This eminently 
 brave man was repeatedly wounded in battle, and lost several 
 of his limbs, to which allusion is made in his epitaph in the 
 Abbaye des Bons-Hommes at Passy: — 
 
 l Il dispersa partout ses membres et, sa gloire, 
 
 Tout, abattu qu’il fut, il demeura vainqueur. 
 
 Son sang fut en cent lieux ]e prix de la victoire, 
 
 Et Mars ne lui laissa rien d'entier que le cosur.’ 
 
 8 th Room: Marshal Schomberg, properly Schoenburg, born in 
 1616 at Heidelberg, served successively in the armies of the 
 Netherlands, France, Brandenburg, and England, and fell at the 
 battle of the Boyne in 1690. 
 
 9th Room : Vauban (d. 1707), the celebrated military engineer. 
 
 The long Galerie de Louis XIII., to the r., facing the garden, is 
 next visited: *Schnetz, Battle of Rocroy (1643). 
 
 At the end of this gallery are several more rooms with por¬ 
 traits of marshals , but two of them only are at present visible. 
 
 1st Room. Marshal Saxe (d. 1750), natural son of Augustus 
 the Strong, king of Saxony, and the beautiful Countess of Konigs- 
 mark; Lcewendal (d. 1750), natural son of Frederick III. of 
 Denmark, successively in the Austrian, Saxon, and Russian 
 service; both portraits by Couder. 
 
 2nd Room: Prince Soubise (d. 1789), who was defeated at 
 Rossbach by Frederick the Great, in 1757. 
 
 3rd Room: Luckner, guillotined in 1794; Murat (d. 1815); 
 Gerard fd. 1852). 
 
 The three following rooms contain portraits of all the Mar¬ 
 shals of the Empire, the next two ‘■Guerriers Celebres', not mar¬ 
 shals, from Godfrey de Bouillon (d. 1190) to Eugene Beauharnais 
 (d. 1824), viceroy of Italy. Finally the halls containing ‘Bustes 
 d’officiers generaux lues en combattant pour la France among 
 them General de Brda, who perished in the Revolution of 1848. 
 
 We now leave the building by the Conr de la Chapelle. 
 
 According to the present arrangements, we are obliged, after 
 having seen the only two ‘Salles de Marechaux’ now accessible, 
 situated on the farther side of the Galerie LouisXIlI., to retrace our 
 steps to the middle of this gallery and pass between the columns 
 to the 1. in order to reach the vestibule, to the r. of which there 
 are two more apartments, the Salle des Rois, containing portraits 
 of all the 67 monarchs of France from Clovis (d. 511) down to 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 251 
 
 Napoleon III. (d. 1873), all of them modem works by Signol, 
 Rouget, Blondel , and Steuben , and a Salle des Residences , with 
 views of chateaux and gardens belonging to the government. 
 
 The ground-floor of this S. part of the palace, which is closed 
 for the present, contains a series of saloons devoted to the campaigns 
 of 1796—1810. The entrance is from the vestibule to the L, in 
 the Cour des Princes (p. 240). 
 
 1st Room (1796). In the centre a small statue executed in 
 1844 by Matthieu Meusnier , representing the young Jos. Agricola 
 Viala, wounded, and with an axe in his hand. When a number 
 of Royalists were about to march from Avignon against Lyons in 
 1793, this boy severed with an axe the rope of the ferry-boat on 
 the Durance, thus retarding their progress. His heroic deed was 
 scarcely accomplished when he was killed by a bullet. The 
 Convention ordered his remains to be interred in the Pantheon. 
 
 2nd Room (1797). The Rattle of Rivoli , a copy from 
 C. Vernet. Victor Adam, Battle of Castiglione; Battle of Neu- 
 wied. Lethiere, Conclusion of peace at Leoben , between Bona¬ 
 parte, the Marquis de Gallo, and General Merveldt. 
 
 3rd Room (1798). *Gros, Battle of the Pyramids, before 
 which Bonaparte addressed his troops with the words, ‘Soldats, 
 du haut de ces pyramides quarante sifecles vous contemplent’. 
 In the centre: Kleber’s Death, a group in marble by Dougron. 
 
 4th Room (1802, 1803). Van Bree , Bonaparte entering 
 
 Antwerp. 
 
 Oth Room (1804). Serangeli , Napoleon at the Louvre after 
 his coronation, receiving deputations from the army. 
 
 6 th Room (1805). Victor Adam , Capitulation of an 'Austrian 
 cavalry brigade at Noerdlingen. 
 
 The suite is here broken by the *Hall of busts and statues 
 of the Imperial Family; in the centre Napoleon I., a copy of 
 the statue on the Vendome column. 
 
 7th Room (1805). *Debret, ‘Napoleon rend honneur an 
 courage malheureux’, the words used by the emperor as he raised 
 his hat in passing a waggon containing wounded Austrians. 
 
 8 th Room (1805). Gros , Interview of Napoleon with the 
 Emperor Francis during the bivouac on the day after the battle 
 of Austerlitz , 3rd Dec., 1805. ‘Je vous re^ois dans le seul 
 palais que j’habite depuis deux mois’, were the words with which 
 Napoleon addressed Francis. ‘Vous tirez si bon parti de cette 
 habitation, qu'elle doit vous plaire’, was the reply. 
 
 9th Room (1806, 1807). Meynier , The French army enter¬ 
 ing Berlin, 27th Oct., 1806. Berthon, Napoleon receiving the 
 deputies of the senate in the palace at Berlin'. 
 
 10th Room (1807). Gosse , Interview of Napoleon with the King 
 and Queen of Prussia, at Tilsit. 
 
252 
 
 37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 11th Room (ISOS'). Reynault , Marriage of Prince Jerome 
 with the Princess Frederica of Wurtemberg. 
 
 12th Room (1809, 1810). Debret, Napoleon addressing his 
 German troops before the battle of Abensberg, the Crown-prince 
 Louis of Bavaria on horseback beside the Emperor. Rouget, 
 Marriage of Napoleon with the Archduchess Marie Louise of 
 Austria. 
 
 Salle de Marengo (1800), the last of the suite. *l)avid, Bo¬ 
 naparte crossing the St. Bernard. Thevenin , The French army 
 crossing the St. Bernard. C. Vernet , Battle of Marengo. 
 
 At the entrance to the long gallery of sculptures, near the 
 statue of Hoche, we descend a stair to the r. to four small 
 rooms containing * Sea-pieces, the finest of which are by 
 Gudin. 
 
 The long gallery of sculptures chiefly contains Statues and 
 Busts of celebrities of the republic and empire and generals 
 who fell in battle. The statue of Hoche (d. 1797) at the en¬ 
 trance, by Milhomme , represents the general in a sitting posture; 
 the reliefs against the wall represent his passage of the Rhine, and 
 the engagement at Neuwied. To the 1., farther on, the natura¬ 
 list Cuvier (d. 1832); to the r., Champollion (d. 1831), the cele¬ 
 brated decipherer of hieroglyphics; in the centre of the hall two 
 reliefs, representing the Capitulation of Vienna, and the Peace 
 of Pressburg. 
 
 At the end of this hall we again reach the vestibule, and 
 emerge from the palace into the Cour des Princes. 
 
 The ^Gardens situated at the back of the Palace of Versailles, 
 with their small park, their ornamental sheets of water, and their 
 celebrated Orangerie, some of the 1200 trees in which are several 
 centuries old, are nearly in the same condition as when first laid 
 out by Le Notre (d. 1700), the most famous landscape gardener 
 of his time. The greater part of the grounds, which are not 
 very extensive, may be surveyed from the terrace. 
 
 The garden is adorned with numerous statues and vases, some of 
 which are copies from celebrated antiques, others originals of the 
 17th cent. 
 
 The principal groups are those in the Parterres du Midi and 
 du Nord. Near the steps descending to the lower part of the 
 garden are two large basins, the Fontaine de Diane to the r., and 
 the Fontaine du Point du Jour to the L, both adorned with groups 
 of animals in bronze by Keller : r. two lions fighting with a boar 
 and a wolf; 1. a bear and tiger, a stag and dog. 
 
 At the foot of the steps is situated the *Bassin de Latone , 
 the largest of all, consisting of several concentric basins of red 
 marble, on which there are frogs and tortoises spouting water 
 against a fine group in white marble of Latona with Apollo and 
 Diana, by Mursy. According to the myth, Latona having besought 
 
37. VERSAILLES. 
 
 23 :', 
 
 Jupiter to chastise the peasants of Lycia for having refused tier 
 a draught of water, the god metamorphosed them into frogs 
 (Ovid’s Metamorph. VI, 313—381). 
 
 The Statues in the crescent, or Pourtour de Latone , are the 
 finest in the garden; to the left a singular statue representing 
 Melancholy, by La Perdrix , the book, purse, and bandaged mouth 
 being allusions to the proneness of scholars, misers, and taciturn 
 persons to this mood. Then Antinous, Tigranes, a Faun, Bacchus, 
 Faustina, Commodus in the character of Hercules, Urania, Jupiter, 
 and Ganymede, and opposite, Venus in the shell. On the other 
 side the Dying Gladiator, Apollo Belvedere, Urania, Mercury, 
 Antinous, Silenus, Venus Kallipygos, Tiridates, Fire, Lyric 
 Poetry. 
 
 At the end of a long, narrow lawn called the Tapis Vert, is 
 situated the Bassin d’Apollon, with a group of the god of the 
 sun in his chariot, environed with tritons, nymphs, and dolphins. 
 The figures are in lead. 
 
 The cruciform Canal to the W. of the Bassin d’ApolIon is 
 nearly 1 M. in length, and extends to the vicinity of the Grand 
 Trianon. 
 
 There are several other basins, named the Bassin d’Apollon, 
 Bassin de Latone, la Salle de Bal, or des Rocailles, Bosquet de la 
 Colonnade, Bosquet des Domes, Bassin d'Encelade, SinAiObelisque, 
 or Cent Tuyaux, in different parts of the symmetrically planted park, 
 but they present no feature of interest except when the fountains are 
 playing. This imposing spectacle, which is computed to cost about 
 10,000 francs on each occasion, generally takes place at 5 p. m. 
 on the first Sunday of every month from May to October. The 
 ‘Petites Eaux', or smaller fountains are those in the basins just 
 mentioned. The ‘Grandes Eaux' are the Bassin du Drayon, or 
 V Alice d’Eau, and the Bassin de Neptune, situated to the N. of 
 the parterres, each of which throws up a column of water 75 ft. 
 in height; but unfortunately they play for 20 min. only, and 
 visitors sometimes find it difficult to procure a good place in 
 time (chair 50 c.). 
 
 The playing of the ‘grandes eaux’ of Versailles is always adver¬ 
 tised a week beforehand in the newspapers, by handbills and 
 posters, and on the omnibuses. Vast crowds of spectators fiock to 
 Versailles on these occasions, especially in fine weather; but the 
 traveller may avoid the crush by going early, remaining to dine 
 at Versailles, aud returning late. 
 
 The Grand Trianon, which is open on Sundays, Tues¬ 
 days, and Thursdays, 12—4 o’clock, a handsome villa of one 
 storey, situated near the N. arm of the Grand Canal, was erected 
 by Louis XIV. for Madame de Maintenon. It contains several 
 richly furnished apartments, and a few good modern works of 
 art. The Salle de Malachite derives its name from the magni- 
 
254 
 
 38. ST. CLOUD. 
 
 flcent basin, presented by the Emperor of Russia to Napoleon I. 
 The interior hardly merits a visit, if the traveller’s time is limit¬ 
 ed. It was in this villa that the famous trial of Marshal ISazaine 
 took place in 1873. 
 
 The Petit Trianon, a little to the N.E. of the other, erected 
 by Louis XV. for Madame Dubarry, is tastefully fitted up, but 
 contains nothing remarkable. The garden, however, which contains 
 some magnificent trees, and an artificial lake, is worthy of a visit. 
 This chateau was once a favourite resort of Marie Antoinette and 
 the Duchess of Orleans, and was also sometimes occupied by the 
 Empress Marie Louise. 
 
 Between the two Trianons is a '■Musee des Vvitures', re¬ 
 cently formed, containing a collection of state-carriages from the 
 beginning of the first Empire to the baptism of the Imperial prince 
 in 1856. 
 
 The traveller may now, instead of returning to Paris, prefer 
 to proceed to St. Germain, to which an omnibus runs daily about 
 4 p. m. in D /2 hr., starting from the Cafe' des Reservoirs (office), 
 at the corner of the Rue des Reservoirs and the Rue de la Pa- 
 roisse; fare 2 fr. The scenery is uninteresting, and the road 
 roughly paved with stones at places. At Louveciennes, half way, 
 rise the lofty arches of an aqueduct constructed by Louis XIV. 
 for the supply of Versailles. A little farther is Marly, beyond 
 which the omnibus soon reaches St. Germain-en-Laye (p. 257). 
 
 38. St. Cloud and Sevres. 
 
 Railways to St. Cloud and Sevres, see pp. 236, 237. Steam¬ 
 boat, see p. 25. Tramway to St. Cloud or to Sevres from the 
 Place de la Concorde 60 c. 
 
 The route as far as Auteuil has already been described at 
 p. 237. The road to St. Cloud diverges here to the r., intersects 
 the fortifications, and traverses the S. end of the Bois de Boulogne 
 in a straight direction. It then passes through Boulogne, a small 
 town with 13,500 inhab., which possesses a handsome church of 
 the 14th and 15th. cent., recently restored, and provided with 
 a spire. This town, lying conveniently on the river, is one of 
 the chief headquarters of the ‘blanchisseuses’ of Paris. 
 
 On the opposite bank rises the small town of St. Cloud, with 
 8000 inhab., commanded by its modern Romanesque parish church 
 (several restaurants and cafe's opposite and to the r. of the bridge). 
 
 The Palace of St. Cloud, now a ruin situated on a height 
 to the 1. of the town, was erected in 1572 by a wealthy citizen, 
 purchased and rebuilt in 1658 by Louis XIV., and presented 
 by that monarch to his brother the Duke of Orleans. In 1782 
 it was purchased by Louis XVI. for Marie Antoinette. It 
 was at the neighbouring Camp de St. Cloud that Henri III. 
 
38. ST. CLOUD. 
 
 255 
 
 was assassinated by the fanatical Dominican Jacques Clement 
 in 1589. In one of the saloons of the chateau, called the 
 Salle de I’Orangerie , the Council of Five Hundred once held 
 their meetings. On 9th Nov., 1799, Bonaparte with his grenadiers 
 dispersed the assembly, and a few days later caused himself to 
 be nominated First Consul. To these reminiscences of the first 
 rise of his power is perhaps to be ascribed the marked pre¬ 
 ference which the emperor always manifested for St. Cloud. 
 
 On 3rd July, 1815, the second capitulation of Paris was 
 signed at the chateau, in which Bliicher’s head-quarters were 
 established. Here, too, on 25th July, 1830, Charles X. signed the 
 famous proclamations abolishing the freedom of the press, dissolving 
 the Chambers, and altering the law of elections, which were the 
 immediate cause of the revolution of July. 
 
 St. Cloud afterwards became the principal summer residence 
 of Napoleon III., and contained several choice works of art. 
 These have all been destroyed, with the exception of Pradier’s 
 Sappho, eight modern pictures by Vernet, and some Gobelins 
 tapestry. 
 
 During the Prussian siege of Paris in 1870—71, St. Cloud, 
 which had been almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, was 
 partially occupied by the Germans, and although occasionally 
 bombarded by Fort Valerien, does not appear to have played a 
 prominent part in the operations. The chateau, the spacious 
 barrack near it, and many houses in the town, were completely 
 burned down in October, 1870. With regard to the origin of the 
 fire at the chateau the accounts differ. The Germans asserted 
 that it had been ignited by a shell from Mont Valerien, while 
 the custodians and the inhabitants of the neighbourhood denied 
 that it had been struck. The fire, moreover, broke out on 12th Oct., 
 several days after the armistice had been concluded. About the 
 same period the barracks and a number of houses were burned 
 by the invaders from ‘strategic considerations’, and it is therefore 
 probable that the chateau was destroyed for the same reason. No 
 town in the environs of Paris suffered so severely during the war, 
 or presented so melancholy an appearance after its termination. 
 For a considerable period several of the streets, and the Place 
 opposite the bridge in particular, presented a chaotic mass of 
 ruins. By April, 1874, most of the houses and the barracks had 
 been rebuilt, but no steps had been taken for the restoration 
 of the chateau or the ‘grande gare’ of the Versailles railway. 
 The station for St. Cloud is therefore still at Montretout, higher 
 up, about 1 /.j M. from the bridge. 
 
 The terrace in front of the palace commands a beautiful 
 view and the prospect is still finer from the park, the master¬ 
 piece of the celebrated Le Notre. Leaving the palace, we retrace 
 our steps for a short distance, take the first turn to the right, and 
 
256 
 
 39. SEVRES. 
 
 follow the avenue in a straight direction, passing between two 
 pieces of water, termed la Haute and la Basse Cascade, adorned 
 with statues of the Seine and the Marne by Adam. The foun¬ 
 tains generally play in summer on the second Sunday of each 
 month, from 4 to 5 o'clock, and also during the fete of St. 
 Cloud, which takes place on the three last Sundays in September, 
 at the same hours. The '■Jet Oeant' , or 1 Grand Jet d’Eau’, to 
 the left of the cascades, rises to a height of 138 ft. 
 
 We next pass a small fish-pond, and follow the paved route 
 to the left, by the iron railing; then turn to the right, and finally 
 ascend a grassy slope to the left, opposite the W. side and the 
 gardens of the palace. 
 
 On the summit of the hill, about 25 minutes’ walk from the 
 terrace of the palace, formerly stood the Lanterne de Demosthene, 
 or de Diogene, a lofty tower erected by Napoleon I. in imitation of 
 the Monument of Lysicrates at Athens. The tower was destroyed 
 by the Prussians in the autumn of 1870, but the site should be 
 visited for the sake of the *view. Far below flows the Seine, to 
 the left is the bridge of St. Cloud; beyond it the Bois de Boulogne; 
 lower down is the small town of Boulogne; farther distant is 
 the Arc de l’Etoile; in the background Montmartre; from among 
 the houses of Paris rise St. Vincent de Paul, the Dome of the 
 Invalides, St. Sulpice, the Pantheon , and to the extreme right 
 the church of Val de Grace. To the r. of Paris lies the village 
 of Issy (p. 236), with its ruined fort. On the farther side of the 
 city the cemetery of Pere Lachaise may also be distinguished. 
 
 At the base of the hill on which the tower stood, a powerful 
 battery was planted by the Prussians. The ‘pavilion’ lower down, 
 which was occupied by the gardeners and custodians of the park, 
 was riddled with the projectiles of the French. 
 
 If we now pursue our route towards the right, then turn to 
 the left, cross a bridge, and, where the path divides, take the one 
 to the right, we shall reach in 1 / i hr. the small town of — 
 
 Sevres (Restaurant au Berceau), one of the most ancient in 
 the environs of Paris. The celebrated 
 
 '* Porcelain Manufactory, situated */$ M. farther, has been 
 the property of government for upwards of a century, and em¬ 
 ploys 180 hands. The public are admitted daily, except on Sun¬ 
 days and holidays., from 11 to 4, to the Exhibition Rooms (fee 
 optional), which contain numerous specimens of the products 
 of the manufactory, the most remarkable being the large paintings 
 on porcelain, most of them copies from celebrated Italian masters. 
 Stained glass is also manufactured here , and there are some 
 beautiful specimens of German workmanship from Munich, pre¬ 
 sented in 1838. 
 
 The Musee Ceramique, open to the public on Thursdays only, a 
 collection founded in 1800 by Alexander Brongniart, comprises 
 
39 St. GERMA1N-EN-LAYE. 
 
 257 
 
 objects of every kind relating to the history of porcelain-making, and 
 specimens of modern manufactures from all parts of the world. 
 The collection, however, is chiefly interesting to connoisseurs. 
 
 The old chateau in which the manufactory is at present 
 
 established is in a dilapidated condition , and was moreover ser¬ 
 iously damaged by projectiles during the first siege of Paris in 
 1870—71. The most valuable part of the collection, however, had 
 been removed to a place of safety, and was afterwards brought back 
 to the chateau. The manufactory will probably :oon be transferred 
 to a new building now in course of construction nearer the 
 
 Pont de Sevres. 
 
 Railways , see p. 236. The trains of the Rive Gauche line 
 stop at Sevres, on their way to Versailles, at half past every 
 hour, and on their way to Paris at 10 min. before every hour. 
 The Rive Droite trains also stop near Sevres at the station S&vres- 
 Ville d’Avray , on the high ground to the S. of the park of St. 
 Cloud. There is a train every hour in both directions on this 
 
 line: to Versailles from 8. 7 a m. to 11. 7. p. m. , to Paris 
 
 from 7. 12 a. m. to 11. 12. p. m. — There is also the Tram¬ 
 way between Sevres and Paris, the office of which is near the 
 bridge, to the 1., in ascending to the town. 
 
 39. St. Germain-en-Laye. 
 
 St. Germain is 13 M. distant from Paris. Trains start from the 
 dare St. Lazare (PI., red, 6) every hour from 7. 35 a. m. to 12. 
 35 a. m., and from St. Germain every hour from 6. 55 a. m. to 
 9. 55 p. in., after which another starts at 11 p. m. — The journey 
 occupies 47 minutes. Fares 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 35 c.; return-tickets 
 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 75 c. — There are also two omnibus routes, one 
 by Nanterre, the other by Bougival. The latter is pleasant, and 
 recommended to those whose time is not limited. 
 
 The railway journey as far as Asni'eres , where the line to 
 Versailles diverges to the left, is described at p. 235. 
 
 Nanterre, the next station, is a village where, according to 
 tradition, Ste. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, was born 
 in 425. 
 
 About 1 M. to the 1. of the Rueil station , in the midst of 
 wood, not visible from the line, is situated the chateau of Mal- 
 rnaison, where the Empress Josephine resided after her divorce in 
 1809. She died here in 1814, and was interred in the small 
 church of Rueil, in which a monument was erected to her mem¬ 
 ory by her children Eugene Beauharnais, once Viceroy of Italy 
 (d. 1824), and Hortense Beauharnais, once Queen of Holland (d. 
 1837), the mother of Napoleon 111. The statue, executed by 
 Cartellier, represents the empress in a kneeling posture, and bears 
 the inscription, ‘A Josephine , Engine et Hortense , 1825' . Queen 
 
 B*dekek. Paris. 4th Edition. 17 
 
258 
 
 39. St. GERMAIN-EN-LAYE. 
 
 Hortense is also interred in this church, and a monument of similar 
 design, executed by Bartolini of Florence, was erected to her in 
 1846, the inscription, ‘A la Reine Hortense , son pis Napoleon III 
 having been added at a later period. After the battle of Water¬ 
 loo, Napoleon retired to the chateau of Malmaison, but quitted it 
 on the approach of the Prussian troops on 29th June, 1815. In 
 1842 the chateau became the property of Queen Christina of 
 Spain, who resided in it for several years, and in 1860 it was 
 purchased by Napoleon III. 
 
 Beyond Rueil, on the summit of a wooded hill to the 1., arc 
 seen the arches of the aqueduct which supplies the fountains of 
 Versailles. The water is pumped up into the aqueduct by the hy¬ 
 draulic machine of Marly, situated below Louveciennes, a village 
 halfway between Versailles and St. Germain ( p. 259). The old machi¬ 
 nery, constructed at a time when mechanical science was in its 
 infancy, consisted of 14 water-wheels, each 39 ft. in diameter, 
 221 pumps, and ponderous iron and woodwork, and is said to have 
 cost 4 million francs. This huge and formidable apparatus was re¬ 
 placed in 1855 — 59 by a stone dyke, 3 iron wheels, and 12 
 forcing pumps, by means of which the water is driven up in 
 a single volume to the aqueduct situated 3 / 4 M. from the river 
 and 505 ft. above it. The quantity of water thus raised 
 averages 10,000 cubic ft. per hour. 
 
 Near Chatou the line crosses the Seine, which is divided here 
 by an island into two arms, and beyond Le Vesinet again crosses 
 the river, from which it ascends a steep gradient (1 : 35) to St. 
 Germain. 
 
 St. Germain - en - Laye (Prince de Guiles , a restaurant adjoin¬ 
 ing the railway-station; Cafe on the terrace, i / i M. from the 
 station ; several tolerable restaurants in the principal street), with 
 22,832 inhab., is a quiet town of modern origin like Versailles, 
 having gradually sprung up around the Palace, a large, gloomy 
 edifice, constructed chiefly of brick, near the railway-station. This 
 building, to the erection of which a number of different monarchs 
 have contributed , was once the favourite residence of Francis I., 
 Henri II. , and Henri IV., and was the birthplace of Henri II., 
 Charles IX., and Louis XIV. 
 
 It was finally quitted by the last-named monarch, who trans¬ 
 ferred his summer residence to Versailles. Napoleon I. converted 
 the palace into a school for cavalry-officers; it was afterwards 
 used as a military prison , and is now converted into a Musee 
 Gallo-Romain, which is open to the public on Sundays, Tuesdays, 
 and Thursdays from 11 to 4 or 5 o’clock. 
 
 The church, situated opposite the palace, contains a handsome 
 monument in white marble, erected by George IV. of England 
 to the memory of James II., who resided in the palace during 
 

 
 ST GERMAJN- 
 
 EN LATE. 
 
 I Bains A.6 
 
 * 2 Cant! da la Jfatcriti It7 
 
 3 '' daxDamexS! Thomas A. 4 
 
 \EflUte B.5 
 
 5 Gmdarmertd B.6 
 
 6 "da la Garde B.7 
 
 7 Juaiiea da Paijr A.5 
 
 8 Maine Rilliadiei/iu B.4 
 
 !• Manage D.7 
 
 . ftParitUm 7F. E.4 
 
 II /“ orii> /true dirrwue B.6 
 
 /\2Salle d' Asiln- B.4 
 ' 13 Salle ilae Arts A.5 
 ' H Thedtrc B.C.5 
 
 YoTcmpL Anglican B.4 
 
 16 Temple Pnjtrxlcml A.B.2 
 
 17 Vcnarie B.2 
 
 deCav! 
 
 df Granmuint 
 
 <hi Luxembourg, 
 
 \er 4 Debea, 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 

iO. ST. DENIS. 
 
 259 
 
 liis exile, and died there in 170J. The monument was afterwards 
 restored by order of Queen Victoria. 
 
 The *Terrace and the beautiful forest constitute the great 
 charm of St. Germain. The terrace extends for upwards of 1 M. 
 along the E. slope of the hill at a considerable height above the 
 Seine, and commands a magnificent survey of the valley, the 
 winding river, and the well-peopled plain. At the foot of the hill 
 lies the village of Le Pecq, to the right Marly, the aqueduct 
 (see above), and Louveciennes , once the residence of Madame 
 Dubarry, and in the distance rise the towers of St. Denis. Paris 
 itself is concealed by Mont Valerien. 
 
 The beautiful and extensive forest of St. Germain is kept in 
 admirable order, and affords pleasant and shady walks in every 
 direction. The popular Fete ties Loges, which takes place in the fo¬ 
 rest on the first Sunday in September and the two following days, 
 derives its name from Les Loges, a country seat erected by Anne 
 of Austria, wife of Louis XIII. The railway to Rouen traverses 
 the forest. (One-horse carr. 2 fr. per hour, on Sundays 2'/-2 fr.; 
 two-horse carr. 2*/2 fr. per hour.) 
 
 The lofty and healthy situation of St. Germain and the beauti¬ 
 ful walks in the neighbourhood render it a favourite summer re¬ 
 sidence of the Parisians, and have also attracted a number of Eng¬ 
 lish families. 
 
 At the S. end of the terrace is a pavilion, commanding a mag¬ 
 nificent view, where Louis XIV. is said to have been born, 
 now converted into a restaurant, 5 minutes’ walk from the railway- 
 station. 
 
 Omnibus three times daily to Versailles by Marly, in V/% 
 hour, fare 2 fr. 
 
 40. St. Denis. 
 
 Enghien. Montmorency. 
 
 St. Denis lies 4 ] / 2 M. to the N. of Paris. Trains start from the 
 Gare du Nord in the Place Roubaix (PL, red. 10), every hour 
 from 6. 55 a. m. to 9. 55 p. m., and from St. Denis every hour 
 from 8. 10 a. m. to 11. 10 p. m. — The journey occupies 11 min¬ 
 utes. Another route is by the Liyne circulaire de la gare du 
 Nord h la gare de I'Ouest , which runs to St. Denis, Epinay, 
 Enyhien (p. 266), and Ermont , returning to Paris by Sannois , 
 Argenteuil, Colombes, and Asnieres (p. 235). Fares to St. Denis 
 85, 65, 40 c.; return-tickets 1 fr. 30, 85 c., 70 c. — Fares for 
 the ‘ligne circulaire’ from the Gare du Nord to the Gare St. Lazare 
 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c.; a pleasant round which may be 
 broken at any of the stations just mentioned. 
 
 Omnibuses start every half hour from the suburb of La Cha- 
 peUe (Barriere de St. Denis), situated to the E. of Montmartre, 
 
 17* 
 
40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 260 
 
 and reach St. Denis in half-an-honr; others start from Les Balig- 
 noLles (Barriere de Clichy), to the W. of Montmartre, and proceed 
 to St. Denis by St. Ouen in 50 min.; fares 30—50 c., ‘corre- 
 spondances’ see p. 24. 
 
 In the chateau at St. Ouen, Louis Will., before entering 
 Paris in 1814, signed the proclamation promising the ‘Charte’ to 
 the country. He afterwards presented the chateau to Madame du 
 Cayla, who bequeathed it to the city in 1856, on condition that 
 a monument should be erected to the memory of Louis XVIII., 
 but the bequest was declined. 
 
 A visit to Montmartre and its cemetery may be conveniently 
 combined with an excursion to St. Denis. 
 
 The station at St. Denis is 3 / 4 M. distant from the abbey- 
 church. The traveller crosses the bridge and reaches the town by the 
 principal street towards the r. , leaving the new Gothic church 
 on the left. Near the station are several small restaurants. 
 
 St. Denis, a town with 32,000 inhab., owes its celebrity to its 
 ancient — 
 
 * Abbey Church, the burial-place of the monarchs of France. 
 The edifice, which is undergoing restoration, is a very fine 
 example of French Gothic, and replete with historical interest. 
 
 About the year 250 a chapel was erected here in honour of 
 St. Dionysius, or St. Denis, the Areopagite, the first bishop of 
 Paris, who is said to have suffered martyrdom on Montmartre 
 (mans martyrum). About the year 630 Dagobert I., king of Au- 
 strasia , and afterwards of the whole of France , substituted for the 
 chapel a Benedictine church and abbey, which attained great cele¬ 
 brity ; but the abbey was at length suppressed in 1793. 
 
 The abbey-church of Dagobert was replaced by another begun on 
 the same site by Pepin in 754, and completed by Charlemagne 
 in 775, but no trace of that building now exists. 
 
 Suger (d. 1152), the celebrated abbot of St. Denis, the ad¬ 
 viser of Louis VI. and Louis VII., and administrator of the king¬ 
 dom during the absence of the latter in the Holy Land, caused 
 a more handsome edifice to be erected on the site, and conse¬ 
 crated in 1144; but the tower and part of the nave were destroyed 
 by lightning a century later. 
 
 Another new church was at length erected on the site by St. 
 Louis in 1234—84, forming the nucleus of the present edifice. 
 Since that period the church has undergone numerous alterations, 
 but under Louis Philippe it was judiciously restored in the ori¬ 
 ginal style. 
 
 During the first Revolution the sacred edifice, once so rich 
 in relics and monuments, was pillaged and desecrated, being 
 converted successively into a ‘Temple of Reason’, a depot of 
 artillery, and a salt-magazine. In accordance with the sacrilegious 
 spirit of the day, the name of St. Denis was abolished, and the 
 
40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 261 
 
 town called Frano.iude. The building being in a dilapidated 
 and dangerous condition , it was afterwards proposed to demolish 
 it and convert the site into a public market. From this fate, 
 however, it was rescued by Napoleon I. , who by a decree of 1806 
 caused the church to be repaired and restored to its sacred uses, 
 and the monastery to be converted into a school in connection with 
 the Ldgion d’Honncur. 
 
 In 1837 the N. tower was destroyed by lightning, and when 
 afterwards in course of re-erection it was found to be in so defective 
 a condition that it was entirely taken down. In 1859, when a 
 decree was passed that the royal burial-church of the kings of France 
 should also be that of her emperors, a complete restoration of the 
 church was begun, in strict accordance with the Gothic style of the 
 13th cent., under the able superintendence of Yiollet-le-Duc. The 
 pavement of the church has since been lowered by 4 1 /.) ft., and is 
 thus restored to its original level. 
 
 During the war of 1870—71 St. Denis was occupied by the 
 French throughout the first siege, but on the last three days 
 before the capitulation of Paris (25th—28th Jan., 1871) was so 
 severely bombarded by the Prussians that many houses were de¬ 
 stroyed, and the abbey church severely injured. 
 
 The Facade of the church contains three receding portals 
 adorned with numerous sculptures. Those of the central bay re¬ 
 present the Last Judgment; and those at the sides the Wise and 
 Foolish Virgins. On the S. portal are represented the martyr¬ 
 dom of St. Denis and the occupations peculiar to each month of 
 the year. The N. portal belongs to the period of the restoration. 
 
 The church is cruciform, 126 yds. in length, and 42 yds. in 
 width. The S. portal is at present closed, but the N. portal is ac¬ 
 cessible , and this side of the church with its handsome windows 
 should be examined before the interior is visited. A considerable 
 part of the nave is still under repair, but an idea of the noble pro¬ 
 portions of the edifice may be obtained , and the celebrated Tombs 
 of the kings of France may be seen under the escort of the verger, 
 except during divine service (fee 1 fr.). Our visit begins wdth the 
 S., or r. aisle. 
 
 After their desecration, a number of the royal tombs were either 
 wholly or partly destroyed, and in particular those which were in 
 bronze. The preservation of the others was chiefly due to the 
 exertions of the indefatigable Lenoir (p. 215), who caused them 
 to be transferred to the Musfie des Petits Augustins, now the 
 Palais des lleaux Arts. When Louis XVIII. ordered them to be 
 restored to the church in 1817, they were placed in the crypt below 
 the church, but on the restoration of the choir and transept 
 they were replaced in their original positions. The tombs are of 
 course now empty. Some of the monuments which have been 
 brought here from other places do not belong to members of the 
 
262 
 
 40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 royal family. We shall now enumerate some of the most inter¬ 
 esting. 
 
 The second chapel contains the tombs of Louis d'Orleans 
 (71. 1407), brother of Charles VI., and his wife Valentine de Milan , 
 with statues of the deceased and their two children. On the pe¬ 
 destal are the Twelve Apostles and several saints. In the centre is 
 a magnificent marble urn which formerly contained the heart of 
 Francis I. 
 
 The S. transept contains the monument of ''‘■'Francis /. (d. 1547) 
 and his queen Claude (d. 1524), a sumptuous monument of the 
 16th cent., designed by Delorme, and executed by several emi¬ 
 nent sculptors of that period. The statues represent the king 
 and queen and their children. The pedestal is adorned with scenes 
 from the battles of Marignano (1551) and Consoles (1544), in 
 relief, attributed to Jean Goujon. 
 
 To the 1. of the aisle, or to the r. of the choir is a series of mon¬ 
 uments with recumbent figures of kings. Among these is the mon¬ 
 ument of *Dagobert (d. 638), a curious work of the 13th cent., 
 with a modern statue, a statue of his queen Nanthilde (d. 641), also 
 dating from the 13th cent., and curious allegorical basreliefs repre¬ 
 senting the release of the soul from purgatory and its reception into 
 heaven. 
 
 Opposite are the monuments of the Children of St. Louis, with 
 statues in bronze. 
 
 We now ascend sixteen steps to the passage round the choir, on 
 each side of which various monuments are pointed out and named 
 by the verger. One of these is the tomb of ‘ Noble homme Messire 
 Bertrand du Guesclin , comte de Longueville et Connestable de 
 France' (d. 1380), one of France’s most heroic warriors in her 
 contests with England. In the left eye is indicated the wound 
 which the constable received in battle. The tomb of his com¬ 
 panion in arms, the Constable Louis de Sancerre (_d. 1402) is near 
 the entrance to the chapel. Then, to the 1., we observe the tomb¬ 
 stone of Fredegonde (d. 597), a mosaic, which was formerly at St. 
 Germain-des-Pres in Paris. 
 
 To the r., farther on , is a picture by Gasp, de Crayer , a pupil 
 of Rubens, representing the Martyrdom of St. Denis. The chapels 
 of the apse contain beautiful stained glass of the 12th cent. , repre¬ 
 senting scenes from the Old and New Testament, modern inlaid 
 pavements, handsome capitals, and painted ceilings. 
 
 Among other monuments we observe on the r. that of * Henri II. 
 (d. 1559) and Catherine de Medieis (d. 1588), attributed to Germain 
 Pilon. This fine work is in white marble, adorned with 12 com¬ 
 posite columns, with bronze statues of the four cardinal virtues at 
 the corners, and the statues of the deceased, represented lying dead 
 and nude on the tomb, and also alive and in a kneeling posture 
 above the entablature. The monument was executed during the 
 
40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 263 
 
 lifetime of the queen, but as she disapproved of the nude figures, 
 they were replaced by draped statues, which however are now placed 
 to the 1. of the monument. 
 
 The N. transept contains the handsome monument of * Louis XII. 
 (d. 1515) and his queen Anne of Bretagne , a work of the same 
 character as the last, designed by Jean Juste of Tours, not Paolo 
 Poncio of Venice as formerly supposed. The king and queen are 
 represented twice, first in a recumbent posture on the sarcophagus, 
 and then in a kneeling posture above it. The monument is sur¬ 
 rounded by twelve arches, richly decorated and supported by grace¬ 
 ful pilasters, beneath which are statues of the Twelve Apostles. 
 The pedestal is adorned with reliefs of the entry of Louis XII. 
 into Milan (1499), his passage of the Genoese mountains (1507), 
 his victory over the Venetians at Agnadello ( 1509), and their 
 final submission. 
 
 On this side of the choir, to the 1., are also a number of less 
 important monuments with figures of kings and queens. A wreath¬ 
 ed column has been placed here to the memory of Henri III., who 
 was assassinated in 1589 by Jacques Clement, and a column to the 
 Cardinal de Bourbon (d. 1590), the uncle of Henri IV., whom 
 theLigue proclaimed king as Charles X. in opposition to his nephew. 
 To the r. are the monuments of the family of St. Louis, and a 
 third column in honour of Francois (d. 1516). Finally, in a 
 kind of chapel on the other side of the transept are several small 
 monuments, among which are two kneeling statues, one of Marie 
 Antoinette in bridal costume, to the 1., and the other of Diana of 
 France, dowager of Montmorency (d. 1619). 
 
 The Stained Glass in the windows is almost exclusively mo¬ 
 dern; the two rose-windows, especially that on the S. side 
 with the genealogy of Christ, deserve particular attention. Those 
 of the galleries above contain a perplexing multitude of portraits 
 of saints, fathers, popes, kings, queens, and abbots. In the. 
 large windows of the nave are 55 large figures of kings and queens 
 from Clovis and Clotilde down to Philip the Bold and Isabella 
 of Arragon. In the N. transept are events from the Crusades and 
 the life of St. Louis; in the S. transept the restoration of St. 
 Denis by Napoleon, the interment of Louis Will., the visit 
 of Louis Philippe to the church, and armorial bearings; in the 
 choir the history of St. Denis. All these windows are about to 
 undergo careful restoration. 
 
 The Sacristy is adorned with ten modern paintings re¬ 
 lating to the history of the abbey: Monsitm , Coronation of 
 Marie de Medicis ; *Gros , Charles V. and Francis I. visiting the 
 abbey; Menjaud, Death of Louis VI. ; Guerin, Philip 111. presents 
 the abbey with the relics of St. Louis; Barbier, St. Louis re¬ 
 ceiving the Oriflamme, the sacred banner of France formerly pre¬ 
 served in the church; I.an don , St. Louis restoring the burial 
 
264 
 
 40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 vaults; Meynier, Charlemagne at the consecration of the church ; 
 Gamier, Obsequies of king Dagobert; Monsiau, Preaching of 
 St. Denis; Heim, Discovery of the remains of the kings in 1817. 
 The sacristan, if desired, also shows the treasury of the church, 
 containing valuable ecclesiastical robes and vessels. A suit of 
 armour preserved here is said to have belonged to Joan 
 of Arc. 
 
 In 1593, Henri IV. abjured Calvinism in this church; and in 
 1810 Napoleon was married here to the Archduchess Marie Louise. 
 
 The four stone slabs in front of the choir mark the entrance 
 to the Crypt, which was restored by order of Napoleon III. 
 Its history is replete with vicissitudes. The vaults, which had 
 been used as a burial-place for the royal family of France since 
 the time of Dagobert (d. 683), extended as far as the W. side 
 of the crypt only. When the last vacant space was filled after 
 the death of the Infanta Maria Theresa (d. 1683), wife of 
 Louis XIV. , that monarch directed the vaults to be extended 
 as a burial-place for the Bourbons, and this was done by adding to 
 them part of the crypt. 
 
 Few members of this family had been interred here when the 
 Revolution broke out. l La main puissante de la Republique doit 
 effacer impitoyablement ces epitaphes superbes et demolir ces mau- 
 solees qui rappelleraient des rois Veffrayant souvenir , were the 
 words used by Barrere before the Convention in 1793; and they 
 accordingly voted for the destruction of the monuments, on the 
 ground that the government was in want of ammunition , and that 
 metal would be thus obtained for casting guns and bullets. 
 
 By a singular coincidence, the work of desecration was be¬ 
 gun on 12th Oct., 1793, the exact day on which, one century 
 before, Louis XIV. had caused the demolition of the ancient tombs 
 of the emperors at Spires. Hentz, the agent employed by the 
 Convention, was, moreover, a namesake of the superintendent of 
 the work of destruction at Spires. The remains of Louis XV. 
 were among the first disinterred: ‘Mercredi le 16 Octobre h 
 onze heures du matin, dans le moment oil la reine Marie An¬ 
 toinette d’Autriche, femme de Louis XVI., eut la tete tranchee, 
 on enleva le cercueil de Louis XV. mort le 10. Mai 1774’ is the 
 testimony of an eye-witness. In order the more speedily to ac¬ 
 complish the work, the wall of the crypt was broken through, and 
 the bodies of the illustrious dead of a thousand years were thrown 
 into ''fosses communes’ dug in the adjacent Cimetiere de Valois. 
 
 These atrocities were completed on 25th Oct., shortly after 
 which another wanton outrage was committed. The some eye¬ 
 witness goes on to relate : 'Quelques jours apres, les ouvriers avec le 
 commissaire aux plombs ont ete au convent des Carmelites faire 
 iextraction du cercueil de Madame Louise de France, fille de 
 Louis X V., morte le 23 dec. 1787, dgee de 50 ans et environ six mois. 
 
40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 265 
 
 Its Vont apporte dans le cimeti'ere et le corps a etc depose dans la 
 fosse commune; il etait tout entier , mats en pleine putrefaction; 
 ses habits de Carmelite etuient tres-bien conserves'. 
 
 On the restoration of the abbey in 1806, Napoleon decreed 
 that the crypt should be used for his own burial and that of his 
 successors. Only one member of his family, however, was 
 interred here, the young Napoleon Charles, the son of his brother 
 Louis. The coffin was afterwards conveyed to St. Leu, near 
 Senlis , and there re-interred with the remains of Charles Buona¬ 
 parte, the father of Napoleon, who died at Montpellier in 1783. The 
 church of St. Leu was restored by the late emperor and adorned 
 with a monument to his mother Queen Hortense. 
 
 In 1817, Louis XVIII. caused the remains of his ancestors, as 
 well as those of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, who had been 
 interred in the churchyard of the Madeleine, to be replaced in 
 the crypt. He himself (d. 1821), the Due de Berri, who was 
 assassinated in 1820, and several of his children were the last of 
 the Bourbons interred here. Charles X. died and was interred 
 at Gcerz, in Austria, in 1836. Louis Philippe had destined the an¬ 
 cient chateau of Dreux for his family burial-place, but was buried 
 at Weybridge in England, where he died in 1850. 
 
 Napoleon III., as already mentioned, had revived the plan of 
 his illustrious predecessor and destined this to be the resting place 
 of the French emperors, but he too died and was interred in 
 a foreign country (1873). 
 
 The Tower, 200 ft. in height, is ascended by a stair to which 
 a door in the S. portal leads. The summit commands a magni¬ 
 ficent *panorama. On a hill to the N. rises the tower of Mont¬ 
 morency; to the S. E. is the village of Aubervillers-les-Vertus 
 with its fort, and adjoining it the Canal de St. Denis, which in the 
 vicinity unites with the Seine, and in connection with the Canal 
 St. Martin cuts off the wide curve which the river describes 
 between the Pont d’Austerlitz and St. Denis. To the S. lies Paris, 
 in which the most conspicuous objects are the Pantheon, Mont¬ 
 martre, Dome des Invalides, and Arc de l’Etoile. To the S.W., 
 in the foreground, lies the village of St. Ouen (p. 260), beyond 
 which rises Mont Valerien. 
 
 The extensive buildings which adjoin the abbey-church of 
 St. Denis were erected by Louis XV. on the site of the monastery. 
 
 Shortly after the foundation of the Legion of Honour by 
 Napoleon in 1801 , he established in the chateau of Ecouen, 
 6 M. to the N. of St. Denis, a school for the daughters , sisters, 
 and nieces of members of the order, and afterwards another in 
 the buildings of the ancient abbey of St. Denis. This ‘ Maison 
 d‘Education de la Letjion d'Honneur still retains its destination. 
 The pupils receive an excellent education, and generally remain at 
 the school till their eighteenth year. They are uniformly dressed in 
 
266 
 
 40. ST. DENIS. 
 
 black, and the discipline is of an almost military character. Visitors 
 are admitted on application to the Grand Chancellor of the Legion, 
 who resides in Paris, Rue de Lille 64. 
 
 Enghien - les - Bains (Talma's Restaurant), a small watering- 
 place with a cold sulphur-spring, a park, and lake, is reached by the 
 trains of the Ligne du Nord in 12 min. from St. Denis. The grounds 
 afford very pleasant walks, and are a favourite holiday resort of the 
 Parisians. 
 
 On a hill to the r. of Enghien, and surrounded with fruit-trees, 
 is situated — 
 
 Montmorency (Restaurant de la Gare), a small town with 3494 
 inhab., another popular resort in summer, chiefly owing to its 
 beautiful forest of chestnuts, which covers an area of 5000 acres. 
 A branch line from Enghien to Montmorency has recently been 
 opened; a train every hour in 8 min. ; fares 55, 40, 35 c. — Mont¬ 
 morency was once the residence of Rousseau, who spent two years 
 (1756 —1758) in the house termed the ‘Ermitage de Jean Jacques 
 Rousseau , and there wrote his Nouvelle Helo'ise. It is situated 
 on the N. side of the town, at the end of the Rue Gretry, and is 
 recognisable by its reddish walls. This unpretending abode was 
 fitted up for the use of the philosopher by the Countess d’Epinay, 
 in order to prevent his return to Geneva. During the Revolution 
 the Hermitage became national property and was for a time occupied 
 by Robespierre. In 1798 it was purchased by the composer Gretry, 
 who died here in 1813. His heart was interred in the garden, 
 where a monument was erected to his memory, but in conse¬ 
 quence of a law-suit was afterwards removed to Lidge, his native 
 place. An allusion to this is contained in the inscription : '■Gretry, 
 ton genie est partout, inais ton cceur nest quid. Les Lieyois n'en 
 ont enleve que La poussiere'. 
 
 The Hermitage has recently been much altered , and no longer 
 contains memorials of Rousseau. The garden, however, retains 
 its former appearance. A stone bears the inscription, 'Ici J. J. Rous¬ 
 seau aimait a se reposer’. The laurel near it is said to have been 
 planted by him. 
 
 An omnibus runs in 20 min. from the station of Engliien- 
 les-Bains to Montmorency (fare t/ 2 fr.). Passengers desirous of 
 visiting the Hermitage quit the omnibus a short distance before 
 Montmorency is reached, and enter the Rue Gretry. The Hermitage 
 is a small, red house near the end of the street, to the garden 
 of which strangers are generally admitted. 
 
267 
 
 41. Fontainebleau. 
 
 37 M. Chemin de Fer de Lyon in 2 hrs.; fourteen trains daily ; 
 fares 7 fr. 25, 5 fr. 40 c., and 4 fr.; return-tickets on Saturdays, 
 Sundays, holidays, and the eves of holidays, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80, 4 fr. 
 95c. The station (PI., blue, 12) is in the Boulevard Muzas, on the 
 right bank of the Seine, near the Pont d'Austerlitz. Special omni¬ 
 buses start from the points mentioned at p. 27 half an hour before 
 the departure of each train, reahing the station in 15—20 min. 
 
 Those who desire to visit Fontainebleau should devote a whole day 
 to the excursion, leaving Paris by an early train (views on the left 
 side), and reaching their destination in 2 hrs. One hour will pro¬ 
 bably suffice for a visit to the palace and garden, after which a drive 
 or walk to the Gorges de Franchard will occupy 2—3 hrs., and a 
 visit to the Fort de l'Empereur 1 hr. Time will then be left to dine 
 at Fontainebleau, where a ‘diner ii 4 ou 5 fr. par tote’ should be 
 ordered beforehand at the hotel. 
 
 Soon after quitting Paris the train crosses the Marne near its 
 confluence with the Seine, and near the station of Charenton , the 
 lunatic asylum of which is seen on a height to the left. Alfort 
 ( 41/2 M.), on the opposite bank of the Marne, possesses a veterinary 
 school. To the right and left rise the forts of Ivry and Charenton 
 which command the course of the Seine here. 
 
 91/2 M. Villeneuve St. Georges, a place of some importance, 
 with 758 inliab., and a suspension-bridge over the Seine, is 
 picturesquely situated on the slope of a wooded hill. 
 
 The beautiful green dale of the Y'eres, a small but deep river, 
 bordered with rows of willows and poplars, is now traversed. 
 Picturesque country houses, small parks, and thriving mills are 
 passed in rapid succession. 
 
 The next stations are (11 M.) Montgeron and (13 M.) Brunoy. 
 The chain of hills and the plain are studded with innumerable 
 dwellings. Brunoy is pleasantly situated in the midst of planta¬ 
 tions, and is chiefly inhabited by wealthy Parisians and retired 
 men of business. 
 
 Before reaching Brunoy the train crosses the Yeres, and beyond 
 the village crosses a viaduct commanding a beautiful view. 
 
 The valley of the Yeres is now quitted, and the country be¬ 
 comes flatter. Stations (16 Mi) Combs-la-Ville , (19*/2 M.) Lieu- 
 saint , and (24 M.) Cesson. The Seine is again reached and 
 crossed by a handsome iron bridge at — 
 
 28 M. Melun (Hotel de France), the capital of the De'parte- 
 ment de Seine et Marne, an ancient town witli 11,408 inliab., 
 the Roman Methalum , or Melodunum, picturesquely situated on 
 an eminence above the river. The church of Notre Dame, dating 
 from the lltli cent., the church of St. Aspais, of the 14th cent., 
 and the modern Gothic Town-hall are fine edifices. 
 
268 
 
 41. FONTAINEBLEAU. 
 
 After affording several picturesque glimpses of the valley of 
 the Seine, the train enters the forest of Fontainebleau. The 
 last station is (32 M.) Bois-le-Roi. The (37 M.) station of — 
 
 Fontainebleau ( Hotel de Londres; Aigle Noir, It. 3, D. 3' /j , 
 L. and A. 1 fr.; Hotel de France; Cafe adjoining the Aigle Noir) 
 is upwards of 1 M. from the palace. The town, which chiefly 
 owes its origin to the neighbourhood of th? palace, is a quiet 
 place with broad, clean streets, and 10,500 inhab. 
 
 The Place du Palais de Justice is adorned with the Statue of 
 Ceneral Damesme, erected in 1851, a native of Fontainebleau, who 
 was killed by the insurgents in June, 1848, when at the head 
 of the guards he was in the act of tearing down a flag from 
 a barricade near the Pantheon. 
 
 The *Palace (open daily, except Tuesdays, 12—4 o’clock), 
 situated on the W. side of the town, is an extensive pile, 
 containing live different courts : Cour du Clieval Blanc , Cour de la 
 Fontaine, Cour Ovale, or du Donjon, Cour des Princes, and Cour 
 des Cuisines, or de Henri IV. 
 
 The Cour du Cheval Blanc, the spacious entrance court, on the 
 W. side, separated from the street and the Place de Ferrare by 
 a railing, derives its name from a statue formerly placed here. 
 It is sometimes termed the Cour des Adieux from having been 
 the scene of Napoleon’s parting from his old Guard and grena¬ 
 diers on 20th April, 1814, after his abdication. Here, too, on 
 20th March, 1815, on his return from Elba, the emperor reviewed 
 the same grenadiers before marching with them to Paris. 
 
 The site of the Palace is said to have been formerly occupied 
 by a fortified chateau founded by Louis VII. in 1162. The present 
 edifice was almost entirely constructed and decorated by French 
 and Italian architects, sculptors, and artists under Francis I. (d. 
 1547). Henri IV. (d. 1610) afterwards made considerable additions 
 to the building, but since that period ithas undergone little change. 
 It was a favourite residence of Napoleon I., but after the Resto¬ 
 ration was much neglected, until repaired by Louis Philippe. 
 
 Several historical associations attach to the Palace besides those 
 already mentioned. On 4th June, 1602, Henri IV. caused his com¬ 
 panion in arms Marshal Biron to be arrested here on a charge of 
 high treason, and a month later to be beheaded in the Bastille. 
 In 1685 Louis XIV. here signed the Revocation of the Edict of 
 Nantes, by which Henri IV. had granted toleration to the Pro¬ 
 testants in 1598. The Grand Conde died here in 1686, and it was 
 in this palace that the sentence of divorce was. pronounced against 
 the Express Josephine in 1809. 
 
 The palace is generally entered by a door below the Escalier 
 du Fer-h-Cheval, so called from its horse-shoe form, on the E. 
 side of the Cour du Cheval Blanc. This central part of the build- 
 
41. FONTAINEBLEAU. 
 
 269 
 
 ing, called the Pavilion des Peintures , is adorned with a bust of 
 Francis I., placed there by order of Louis Philippe. 
 
 An attendant (fee 1 fr.) receives the visitor here, and con¬ 
 ducts him through a long series of apartments, many of them sump¬ 
 tuously fitted up, but poor in works of art. A few of the more 
 interesting objects only need be enumerated. 
 
 The Galerie des Assiettes derives its name from the porcelain 
 plates with which the walls are decorated. 
 
 The Appartements des Reines Meres were once occupied by 
 Catherine de Medicis (d. 1588), mother of kings Francis II., 
 Charles IX., and Henri III.-, and by Anne of Austria (d. 1666), 
 mother of Louis XIV. The same apartments were assigned to Pope 
 Pius VII. during his imprisonment from June, 1812, to January, 
 1814. Under Louis Philippe they were redecorated for the re¬ 
 ception of the Duke and Duchess of Orleans. The pictures are 
 by Coypel, Mignurd, Vien, and other French masters; the tapestry 
 is from the Gobelins manufactory. 
 
 The Galerie de Francois I., 180 ft. long and 19 ft. wide, 
 contains 14 large paintings by ltosso and Primaticcio, relating to 
 the adventures of Francis I. Between these the walls are deco¬ 
 rated with reliefs, caryatides, trophies, and medallions, among 
 which the letter F and the winged salamander, the heraldic 
 emblem of Francis I., are frequently repeated. 
 
 In the Salle d'Abdication, on 6th April, 1814, Napoleon signed 
 his abdication. The table on which this was done is still shown. 
 The adjoining bedroom is in the same condition as when occupied 
 by the emperor. 
 
 The Salle du Trone, with its magnificent ceiling, contains a 
 table at which the marshals of France formerly took their oaths 
 of allegiance. 
 
 The Galerie de Diane, a corridor 110 yds. in length, constructed 
 under Henri IV. and restored by Napoleon I. and Louis XVHI., is 
 decorated with mythological scenes from the lives of Apollo and 
 Diana. 
 
 The Petits Appartements, below the Galerie de Diane, which are 
 not shown without special permission, include the room in which 
 Christina of Sweden, while a guest at the French court after her ab¬ 
 dication in 1654, caused her unfortunate secretary and favourite 
 Count Monaldeschi to be put to death after a pretended trial. 
 Louis XIV. expressed his strong disapprobation of this proceeding, 
 but took no farther steps in the matter, and Christina continued to 
 reside at Fontainebleau for two years longer. A marble slab in the 
 pavement of the small church of Avon, a village on the E. side 
 of the park, about 1 M. from the palace, bears the inscription: 
 Mci fut inhume, le 15 octobre 1657, h 6 heures du soir, le corps 
 de Monaldeschi, mis £t mort dans la galerie des Cerfs, h 4 hiures 
 et demie du mime jour. 
 
270 
 
 41. FONTAINEBLEAU. 
 
 The Galerie de Henri II., or Salle des Fetes , 101 ft. in length 
 and 33 ft. in breadth, was erected by Francis I., and magnifi¬ 
 cently decorated by Henri II. for Diana of Poitiers. Her emblem, 
 a half-moon, and the initials H and D frequently recur. This 
 saloon was carefully restored under Louis Philippe. The mytholo¬ 
 gical paintings were executed by Primaticcio and his pupil Niccolb 
 del Abbate, and afterwards retouched by Alaux. The chimney- 
 piece in white marble, decorated with fleur-de-lis, is a fine work 
 by Rondelet. 
 
 The Chapel of St. Saturnin contains stained glass executed at 
 Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie of Orleans (p. 245). 
 Pope Pius VII. usually performed mass here during his deten¬ 
 tion in the palace. The chapel occupies the site of a more ancient 
 edifice founded by Louis VII., and consecrated by Thomas & Becket, 
 at that time absent from England on account of his differences with 
 Henry II. 
 
 In the adjoining Galerie des Colonnes , a hall of the same 
 dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II., the Duke of Orleans was 
 married to the Princess of Mecklenburg in accordance with the 
 rites of the Protestant church in 1837. The Roman Catholic 
 ceremony took place in the Chapelle de la Trinite, where Louis XV. 
 had been married to Maria Lesczinska of Poland in 1725, and where 
 Napoleon III. was baptised in 1810. 
 
 The Porte Doree, of the period of Francis I., as the salamander 
 introduced among the decorations indicates, a magnificent portal 
 adorned with revived frescoes, leads to the Cour Ovale , or Corn 
 du Donjon, the most ancient in the palace, and remarkable for 
 its Renaissance architecture. Facing this portal is the Allee de 
 Maintenon. 
 
 The Jardin Anglais, behind the palace, merits a visit. The 
 Parterre was laid out by Le Notre in the style of that period. 
 The Etang, a fine sheet of water, contains a number of venerable 
 carp, which visitors amuse themselves by feeding. The Chas- 
 selas de Fontainebleau are delicious grapes trained here on long 
 frames, termed the Treilles du Roi. 
 
 A lofty Obelisk at the S.W. end of a small plantation at the 
 back of the palace and garden, marks the spot where, at a cross 
 path in the forest, the ‘wild huntsman’ is said to have appear¬ 
 ed to Henri IV. shortly before his assassination by Ravaillac in 
 1610. 
 
 The *Forest of Fontainebleau has for centuries been the 
 favourite chasse of the monarchs of France. It is abundantly 
 stocked with deer and pheasants, and is remarkable for its pictur¬ 
 esque scenery. It is 50 M. in circumference and covers an area 
 of 42,000 acres. It is intersected by paths in all directions, and 
 affords delightful walks and rambles. 
 
 Those who desire to explore the forest thoroughly should pro- 
 
41. FONTAINEBLEAU. 
 
 271 
 
 cure the admirable Carte topographique de la foret et des environs 
 de Fontainebleau by Denecourt (scale 1 : 100,000), which may be 
 purchased for 2 fr. in the vestibule of the Escalier du Fer-a- 
 Cheval (p. 268). Travellers whose time is limited may engage 
 a conducteur (about 5 fr. per diem), or a carriage (2 fr. per hour, 
 or 12 fr. for the whole excursion; Rue de France 49 and 59). 
 Mules and donkeys may also be hired. Good walkers, however, 
 provided with the above mentioned map, and with the aid of the 
 numerous finger-posts which the forest contains, may explore 
 every part of it without difficulty. It should be observed that 
 the blue marks, which M. Denecourt, the publisher of the map, 
 has caused to be placed on trees and rocks, indicate the way to 
 the most picturesque points. The red marks are connected 
 with the forest administration, and point in the direction of the 
 town. 
 
 Ordinary visitors seldom extend their excursion beyond the 
 Rockers et (Jorges de Franchard, about 3 M. from the town, 
 to which, by attending to the following directions, they will easily 
 find their way without a guide. 
 
 Near the Barriere de Paris, at the N.W. end of the town, 
 we follow the broad road diverging to the left from the high road 
 to Paris; after 35 min. we reach a cross-way, where we take 
 the road to the left, from which after 5 min. a footpath diverges 
 to the r., leading through the forest in 5 min. more to the Res¬ 
 taurant de Franchard, the most frequented spot in the environs 
 of Fontainebleau. 
 
 The celebrated Rockers et Gorges de Franchard, a rocky 
 basin overgrown with trees and bushes, about 2'/2 M. in circum¬ 
 ference, begin about 5 minutes walk to the W., at the Rockers 
 des Ermites and the ‘■Roche qui pleure', a little beyond the 
 ruins of an ancient monastery (now a forester’s house). The 
 water which trickles from this ‘weeping rock’ is popularly be¬ 
 lieved to be a remedy for diseases of the eye; but its appearance 
 is not inviting. ‘ L'eau que filtre le rocker qui est procke votre 
 cellule nest ni belle ci voir ni bonne h boire’, wrote the Abbot 
 ot Ste. Genevieve upwards of 800 years ago to the founder of the 
 monastery of Franchard. The accuracy of this opinion may be 
 tested on the spot. 
 
 Above the Roche qui pleure is a point commanding a good 
 survey of the gorge: in the distance to the N. are visible the 
 Gorges d’Apremont, another rocky wilderness. These ravines are 
 all similar in character, and the hard white sandstone they con¬ 
 tain is sent to Paris in large quantities for making paving- 
 stones. 
 
 The visitor may now return to the town by the same route. 
 
 An excursion to the Rockers et Gorges d’Apremont and the 
 fine timber of the neighbouring Das-Breau is not less interest- 
 
272 
 
 42. COMPlfilGNE. 
 
 ing than the above. This locality affords an admirable field for 
 artists, a whole colony of whom is established at the village of 
 Barbison in the vicinity. A number of artists also reside at the 
 village of Marlotte, on the opposite margin of the forest. 
 
 Many of the finest trees in the Bas-Bre'au and in other parts 
 of the forest are distinguished by various names, such as Henri IV., 
 Sully, Reine Blanche, etc. Between the Rochers d’Apremont 
 and the Monts Girard, another chain of hills, extends the Dormoir, 
 a plain partly wooded, and partly covered with rocks and heath, 
 one of the most beautiful parts of the forest, and a favourite sport¬ 
 ing rendezvous. In the upper part of the Gorges d’Apremont is 
 situated the Caverne des Brigands, said once to have been the 
 haunt of bandits. The man who lives in a rustic hut here sells 
 beer and other refreshments at high prices, and the hermit of the 
 cavern has a small collection of holly walking-sticks, carved wood, 
 living reptiles, etc. 
 
 Among many other beautiful rambles may be mentioned the 
 Belle Croix, with its numerous miniature lakes (mares), the largest 
 of which is the Mare h Piat; then the Hauteur de La Solle, near 
 which, in the Vallee de la Solle, races take place in summer; the 
 Gros Fouteau, with its magnificent forest-trees, situated near the 
 town, and near it the Rendez-vous des Artistes; also the Gorge 
 aux Loups and Longs Rochers near the village of Marlotte. 
 
 The finest point of view near Fontainebleau is the *Fort de 
 l’Empereur, which is easily reached in 25 min. from the railway 
 station. Ascend the road to the left by the unpretending restau¬ 
 rants at the station; after 10 min., where the wood begins, enter 
 it to the left, and follow the broad, sandy path, leading to the 
 height on which the ‘Fort’ is situated. This ‘fort’ is a belvedere, 
 built in the form of a miniature fortress, which commands a 
 picturesque and very extensive panorama, embracing a great part 
 of the forest, and to the N. and E. the chain of hills, studded 
 with numerous villages, at the base of which the Seine flows. 
 The town of Melun is distinctly visible, and in clear weather 
 Paris itself may be descried in the extreme distance. 
 
 42. Compiegne. 
 
 Chantilly. Pierrefonds. 
 
 521/2 M. Ligne du Nord (station, see p. 27). Express (1st 
 class only) in l 3 / 4 hrs., ordinary trains in 2 3 / 4 hrs.; excursion trains 
 in summer at reduced fares (see advertisements). Ordinary fares 
 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 75, 5 fr. 65 c. 
 
 The express and fast trains stop once or twice only before reach¬ 
 ing Creil. 
 
 4'/ 2 M. St. Denis, see p. 260. 
 
 The Ligne de Pontoise which diverges here to the 1., was for a 
 
42. COMPIEGNE. 
 
 273 
 
 long time the only railway between Paris anil Creil (p. 274), and is 
 10*12 M. longer than the route by Chantilly. Stat. Enghien , see p. 266. 
 Stations Ermonl, Franconville (l'li M. from which is SI. Leu-Tavernay , 
 the modern church of which contains the tombs of several members of 
 the Bonaparte family), Herblay. 
 
 19 M. Pontoise (Ildtel de Pontoise), a charmingly situated town with 
 6480 inhab., is commanded by the church of St. Slaclou, a building of 
 the 12th and 16th centuries, situated on a rock. A new line runs direct 
 from Pontoise to Dieppe (p. 239) by Gisors, a town with 4000 inhab., and 
 Gournay (p. 286). 
 
 The trains from Pontoise to Creil now run back for l'fo M. to regain 
 the main line in the valley of the Oise. Stations St. Ouen VAumone, 
 with a picturesque chateau; Auvers, with an interesting church; L'Isle 
 Adam , one of the finest points on the line; Beaumont , with its Gothic 
 tower; Boran, Pricy, and St. Leu , which possesses a handsome church 
 in the transition style. 
 
 The line rejoins the Chantilly railway between Montataire (p. 274) 
 and the Oise, shortly before reaching Creil (p. 274). 
 
 The main line from Paris to Compiegne crosses the canal of 
 St. Denis (p. 265). On the r. and 1. rise the forts du Nord and 
 de la Briche. 
 
 7 M. Pierrefitte-Stains. Then (9'/.> M.) Villiers-le-Bel, a village 
 with 2107 inhab., the station for Gonesse (2*/.2 M.), which has a 
 fine church of the 12th and 13th centuries, and for Ecouen (3 3 /4M.), 
 the chateau of which , erected in the 16th cent., has been converted 
 into a school of the Le'gion d'Honneur ( p. 265). 
 
 124/2 M- Goussainville; 15 M. Louvres; 19 M. Luzarclies, with 
 a church in the Romanesque and Gothic styles. The train now 
 enters the forest of Coye. 22'/.j M. Orry la Ville. 
 
 The train now crosses a handsome stone Viaduct of fifteen 
 arches, 363 yds. in length, and 130 ft. in height, commanding a 
 fine view. To the r. are the Etangs de Commelle , on the bank of 
 which stands a small modern Gothic chateau occupying the site of 
 an ancient chateau once occupied by St. Louis and Queen Blanche. 
 Beyond the viaduct the train enters the forest of Chantilly. 
 
 25M. Chantilly (Hotel du Grand Cerf; Ildtel des Bains; 
 Gyyne; a cafe' at the end of the Grand’ Rue next the railway), a 
 town with 3500 inhab., which presents a thronged and busy scene 
 when the Jockey Club races take place in May, September, and 
 October. The traveller may visit the place in the interval between 
 two trains on his way back from Compiegne. 
 
 Quitting the station, we observe the forest opposite, through 
 which we may return after seeing the town. The road to the left leads 
 to the Grand’ Rue, passing the Pelouse, or race-course, which we 
 may cither skirt or cross. To the r., near the forest, farther on, 
 a‘re the Stands for spectators, and to the 1. the extensive Stables of 
 the Condos, who formerly resided at Chantilly, built in 1719—35. 
 and capable of containing 176 horses. 
 
 Farther on is the Chateau , to the r., consisting of two different 
 buildings, the chateau of Chantilly below, and that of Enghien 
 above. The pleasant park and gardens laid out by Le Notre are 
 
 BasuKKER. Paris. 4th Edition. 18 
 
274 
 
 42. COMPIEGNE. 
 
 shown to visitors by one of the gardeners. The mansion and 
 grounds have been restored by the Due d’Aumale, the heir of the 
 Conde's, and they still present a handsome appearance; but the sad 
 havoc committed by the Revolution has never been entirely repaired, 
 and Chantilly is no longer the place described by Mme de Sevign6, 
 the scene of the magnificent fetes given to Louis XIV. which she 
 mentions in relating the death of Vatel. 
 
 The Forest of Chantilly, which covers an area of 6125 acres, is 
 traversed by the Route du Connetable, a broad avenue which opens 
 opposite the chateau and leads through the most beautiful part of 
 the forest to the Etangs de Commelle, about 3 Vo M. distant 
 ( P . 273). 
 
 The town itself is uninteresting. 
 
 A branch line runs from Chantilly to (13 min.) Senlis, and thence to 
 (1 hr. & min.) Crtpy-en- Valois on the Soissons railway. 
 
 Senlis (Hotel du Grand Cerf), the Civitas Silranectensium of the 
 Romans, situated on the Nonette, is a pleasant little town with 6000 
 inhab., of which mention is frequently made in the annals of the middle 
 ages. The Gothic ^Cathedral , a handsome building of the 12th — 16th 
 cent., possesses a portal adorned with bas-reliefs and statues, and is 
 surmounted by two square towers, one of which is 250 ft. above the 
 pavement. Of the other interesting buildings here the church and abbey 
 of St. Vincent , dating from 1130, are the most remarkable. A kind of 
 gingerbread (‘pain d’dpice’) made at Senlis is much esteemed. 
 
 Beyond Chantilly the train crosses a second Viaduct, 484 yds. 
 in length and 68 ft. in height, consisting of 36 arches, and com¬ 
 manding a fine view. To the r. is seen the Nonette emerging 
 from the gardens of the chateau in the form of a canal. 
 
 The train now passes through a cutting, traversing the quarries 
 of St. Maximin , which yield excellent stone for building purposes. 
 The stone used in the construction of the Gare du Nord at Paris 
 was quarried here. 
 
 The train soon crosses the Oise, on the banks of which is still 
 seen the clearing made by the Germans during the war of 1870—71 
 when they constructed a bridge across the river to replace the rail¬ 
 way bridge which had been destroyed on their approach. 
 
 To the 1. is the line leading to Paris via Pontoise; and in the 
 same direction are seen the village and manufactories of Montataire, 
 with 4500 inhab., commanded by a handsome church of the 12th 
 and 13th, and a chateau of the 15th century. The Creil and Beau¬ 
 vais line diverges to the N.W. 
 
 32 M. Creil (Buffet) is an important station on the Chemin de 
 Per du Nord, being the junction of five different lines. Two of thesa 
 lead to Paris, one to Dieppe via Beauvais and Rouen, one to Amiens, 
 Calais, and Boulogne, and one to Germany via Compiegne and 
 St. Quentin. From 75 to 80 passenger-trains and the same number 
 of goods-trains pass through Creil daily. 
 
 The town, with 5000 inhab., prettily situated on the Oise, con- 
 
42. COMPlftGNE. 
 
 275 
 
 tains nothing to detain the traveller, with the exception perhaps 
 of its church, a building of the 12th—16th cent., the ruins of the 
 church of St. Evremont of the 12th cent., and its large porcelain 
 manufactory. 
 
 After leaving Creil the train skirts the Oise , while the line to 
 Amiens diverges to the 1. (p. 285). 39 M. Pont Ste. Maxence, a 
 
 small town with 2350 inhab., a handsome bridge, a church of the 
 17th cent., and several houses of the 16th cent. — 45 M. Verberie. 
 
 52 1 /.j M. Compiegne (Hotel de la Cloche; Soleil d’Or), a town 
 with 12,300 inhab., to which a number of historical associations 
 attach, was always a favourite country residence of the monarchs of 
 France. It was at the Pont St. Louis at Compiegne that the heroic 
 and unfortunate Joan of Arc was taken prisoner by the Burgundians 
 
 in 1430. 
 
 The church of S'!. Antoine, dating from the 12th and 15th cen¬ 
 turies, possesses an interesting choir and fonts. The church of 
 St. Jacques, an early Gothic building of the 12th cent., was much 
 disfigured in the 15th. Above the facade Tises a tower with a 
 Renaissance dome , 158 ft. in height. The church contains a holy 
 water basin of the 12th cent., fine modern stained glass, a modern 
 altar-piece, and a copy of Titian's Entombment by Ph. de Cham- 
 paigne. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville , erected about the end of the 15th cent., has 
 a fine facade, formerly adorned with statues, and is surmounted by 
 a belfry, 152 ft. in height, erected in the 16th cent., but frequently 
 restored. 
 
 The Chateau, the most important, though not the most attract¬ 
 ive edifice at Compiegne, was built in the reign of Louis XV. in 
 the style of that period. The facade next the town, looking towards 
 the Place du Chateau, is preceded by a double colonnade, 50 yds. 
 in length. The interior, where a Musee Chinois is to be established, 
 was seriously damaged during the war of 1870 — 71. Visitors 
 are admitted on Sundays in summer. The principal apartments 
 are adorned with Gobelins and Beauvais tapestry and with paintings. 
 A second facade, 200 yds. in length, overlooks the park, where 
 there is a terrace commanding a fine view. An iron trellised walk 
 »/ 4 M. in length, leading from this terrace to the forest, was con¬ 
 structed by order of Napoleon I. to remind the Empress Marie Louise 
 of her favourite trellis at Sehonbrunn. 
 
 Compi&gne is a pleasant summer residence and has attracted a 
 small English community. The tasteful English Church was com¬ 
 pleted in 1869. 
 
 The Forest, which is intersected by 354 roads and paths, and 
 affords many beautiful walks, is 36,270 acres in area and 59 M. in 
 circumference. The routes are indicated by finger-posts, the red 
 marks, as at Fontainebleau, pointing in the direction of the town. 
 
 18* 
 
276 
 
 42. PIERREFONDS. 
 
 The most interesting excursion from Compiegnc is to Pierre- 
 fonds , 9 M. to the S. E. , to which omnibuses run in summer. 
 Other conveyances may also be obtained. 
 
 Pierrefonds (Hotel de Pierrefonds; Hotel des Etrangers), a 
 village with 1900 inhab., situated on a small lake, and possessing 
 a mineral spring, is chiefly interesting on account of its magnificent 
 feudal *Castle , which was erected in 1390, dismantled in 1617, 
 afterwards purchased by government, and recently restored by 
 Viollet-le-Duc. It stands on a rocky height above the village, cov¬ 
 ering an area of nearly i l / 2 acres. At the corners and in the 
 centres of each side rise eight massive looplioled towers, 112 ft. 
 in height, the one on the S., the side turned away from the village 
 and containing the entrance, being the largest, and separated from 
 the rest of the plateau by a moat. The walls of this tower are 
 14 ft. in thickness. The whole building is commanded by the 
 donjon, or keep, which is approached by a permanent bridge and 
 two drawbridges. The keep, in which the lord of the castle once 
 resided, contains three storeys above the ground-floor, and is now 
 occupied by a Museum of Armour. A square tower on the N. E. 
 connects this part with the E. facade, in which the chapel is situated. 
 The S. E. tower contains the dungeons. Under the castle are 
 cellars of vast size, extending even beyond the precincts of the 
 enclosing walls. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
NORTHERN FRANCE. 
 
 A. ROUTES FROM LONDON TO PARIS. 
 
 43. By Folkestone, Boulogne, and Amiens. 
 
 255 M. By Tidal Express Trains (see advertisements in ‘Bradshaw 1 ), 
 from Charing Cross or London Bridge in 10—12 lirs., average sea-passage 
 2>J 4 lirs.; fares 2 1. 16s., and 2/. 2s.-, return-tickets valid for one month 4/. 
 15s. and 3/. 15s. — Passengers with single tickets may break their journey 
 at the principal stations and spend 7 days on the route. Night-service at 
 reduced fares, 2nd class 31s. GcL, 3rd 21 s.; tickets available for 3 days 
 only. Omnibus from the harbour at Boulogne to the railway station 
 included in 1st and 2nd class fares. Luggage registered from London or 
 Folkestone to Paris is not examined before arrival at Paris (station, Place 
 Roubaix). 
 
 By Steamboat from London to Boulogne daily (see advertisement in 
 ‘Bradshaw 1 ) and thence to Paris by railway, a journey of 14—17 lirs. 
 exclusive of detention at Boulogne, where the trains do not correspond 
 with the steamers; river-passage about 6 lirs., sea-passage 4 — 5 lirs.*, fares 
 26s. 6cL, 22s., 19s., 16s-, tickets available for 3 days. This is the cheapest, 
 and in favourable weather the pleasantest route. 
 
 Boulogne-sur-Mer. Hotels. Hotels df.s Bains, *d'Angleterre, du 
 Nord, all in the Rue Napoldon, and near the harbour. Opposite the 
 steamboat-quay: London and Folkestone Hotel. Near the baths: Hotel 
 de la Marine and Grand Hotel du Pavillon , commanding a line view. 
 There also numerous maison meubl4.es , pensions , and furnished apartments, 
 suitable for a prolonged stay. 
 
 Restaurants. Biausse, Quai de la Flotille ; Fourny, Quai des Paquebots; 
 Howe , Grand 1 Rue 83; also at the hotels and at the railway-station. 
 Ca/4s du Commerce and Vermond , Rue de PEcu; Veyez> Grand 1 Rue 1. 
 
 Voitures de Place. From 6 a. m. to midnight per drive-l 1 /* fr., per hour 
 2 fr.; from midnight to 0 a. m. 2 fr. and 2 l /« fr. respectively. 
 
 Omnibus from the steamboat to the railway gratis for 1st and 2nd 
 class through-passengers. Other persons pay 50c. without luggage, 75 c. 
 with luggage under 60 lbs., 1 fr. if under 100 lbs., and * fr. if between 
 100 and 200 lbs. 
 
 Porters. Box under 40 lbs. 50 c., heavier luggage 1 fr. or 1*|2 fr., 
 according to weight. 
 
 Steamers to Folkestone twice daily, fares 8s. 6<f, 6s. 6</; to London 
 daily, fares 11s., 8s. 
 
 Baths. Sea-baths (p. 279) 75 c., including machine and towels; 
 subscription for 12 baths 8 fr. — Fresh-water Baths at the Hotel des Bains. 
 
 Post Office, Rue des Vieillards 28. — Telegraph Office at the Hotel du 
 Nord, and other places. 
 
 English Church Service in the Haute-Ville, the Basse-Ville, the Rue 
 Royale, and the Rue de la Lampe. 
 
278 Route 43. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. From London 
 
 Boulogne-sur-Mer, so called to distinguish it from Boulogne-sur- 
 Seine near Paris, the Bononia (?) or Gesoriacum of the Romans, is 
 an important seaport town , the capital of the Ddpartement Pas-de- 
 Calais, situated on the Liane, with a population of 39,700, of whom 
 upwards of 2000 are permanent English residents. The town may 
 be said to combine a certain amount of English comfort withFrench 
 taste. It possesses 120 schools of various kinds, many of which 
 enjoy a high reputation. 
 
 The Basse-Ville is situated on a slight eminence on the r. hank 
 of the river. A broad street, named successively the Rue de la 
 Lampe, Rue St. Nicolas, and Grand ’ Rue, leads from the Pont de 
 L'Ecluse to the Haute- Ville. This line of streets is intersected by 
 another line formed by the Rue de l'Ecu (formerly Napoleon) and 
 the Rue Royale, from N.E. to S.AV., the busiest part of the town, 
 where the principal shops are situated. 
 
 The * Museum (open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, 
 and Saturdays, 10—4; at other times , fee 1 fr.), in the Grand’ 
 Rue, contains interesting ethnographical and historical collections. 
 
 At the end of the Grand’Rue, to the 1. , is the Esplanade, a 
 small Place, adorned with a colossal bust of Henri II., by David. 
 
 The Haute-Ville, enclosed by ramparts , is entered by the Porte 
 des Dunes, within which, to the 1., is situated the Hotel de Ville, 
 erected in 1734 on the site of an ancient castle, where the crusader 
 Godfrey de Bouillon was born in 1065. 
 
 The church of Notre Dame, a building in the degraded Italian 
 style, erected in 1827—66, occupies the site of a Gothic church 
 which was destroyed in 1793. The lantern which surmounts the 
 dome is crowned with a colossal statue of the Virgin , which forms 
 the most conspicuous point in the whole town. Extensive ’^view, 
 comprising the downs , the plateau traversed by the railway to Ca¬ 
 lais, in the foreground Napoleon’s Column, and in the distance, in 
 clear weather, the white cliffs of the English coast. The entrance 
 to the staircase is by a door to the r., in the interior of the church 
 (admission gratis). 
 
 The Chateau, situated at the E. angle of the Haute-Ville, in 
 which Louis Napoleon was confined after the attempted insurrection 
 of 1840, is the ancient citadel of Boulogne, and dates from the 13tli 
 century. It is now converted into barracks and an artillery depot. 
 
 The Harbour , especially the W. part near the Douane, and the 
 steamboat - quay , with the principal hotels, present a very busy 
 scene. At the end of the harbour is situated the Etablissement de 
 Bains, open from May to November. 
 
 The Pier, or Jetee on the N. side, which extends 650 yds. 
 into the sea, is a favourite evening promenade. The opposite (W.) 
 pier is 400 yds. longer. Both are provided with light-houses. 
 
 The large semicircular Basin on the left bank of the 
 
to Paris. 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 43. Route. 279 
 
 Liane was constructed by Napoleon I. to accommodate the flotilla 
 which was to convey his troops to England (see below). 
 
 The Fish-Market is held early in the morning on the quay, 
 near the Hotel des Bains. The fishermen and their families 
 occupy a separate quarter of the town on the W. side, and form 
 one-tenth of the population. They are remarkable for their 
 adherence to the picturesque costume of their ancestors, and they 
 differ considerably in character and customs from the other in¬ 
 habitants of the town. Their wives, who are called Matelottes, 
 exercise unlimited sway on shore, whilst the sea is the undisputed 
 domain of their husbands. 
 
 Boulogne possesses upwards of 250 fishing-boats, which extend 
 their voyages during the herring fishery as far as the Scottish 
 coast, and even to Iceland, and in favourable seasons realise a 
 sum of 60,000 l. — The commercial importance of the harbour 
 is increasing, and the goods which pass this way now amount to 
 320,000 tons per annum. 
 
 In 1804 Napoleon I. assembled an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 
 cavalry on the table-land to the N. of Boulogne, under the command of 
 marshals Soult, Ney, Davoust, and Victor, and in the harbour a flotilla 
 consisting of 2413 craft of various dimensions, for the purpose of invad¬ 
 ing England and establishing a republic there. The troops were ad¬ 
 mirably drilled, and only awaited the arrival of the fleets from Antwerp, 
 Brest, Cadiz, and the harbours of the Mediterranean, which had been in 
 the course of formation for several years for this express purpose. Their 
 union was prevented by the English fleet under Sir Robert Calder; and 
 the victory of Nelson at Trafalgar, on 22nd Oct., 1805, completed the 
 discomfiture of the undertaking. 
 
 Napoleon's Column, or the Colonne de la Grande Annie , a Doric co¬ 
 lumn, constructed by Marquise, 172 ft. in height, situated 2 M. from Bou¬ 
 logne on the road to Calais, was founded in 1804 to commemorate the 
 expedition against England , the first stone being laid by Marshal Soult 
 in the presence of the whole army. The first empire left the monu¬ 
 ment unfinished, and in 1821 Louis XVIII. caused the work to be 
 resumed, intending that the column should commemorate the restoration 
 of the Bourbons \ but it was not completed till 1841 , when its original 
 destination was revived. The summit is occupied bv a statue of the 
 emperor, one of Bosio's finest works. The pedestal is adorned with 
 reliefs in bronze, representing emblems of war. The view from the top 
 resembles that commanded by the dome of Notre Dame (custodian *|2 fr.). 
 Model in the museum (p. 278). 
 
 A Block of Marble , placed about 3 J.j M. nearer the coast, comme¬ 
 morates the distribution of the decorations of the Legion of Honour to 
 the army in 1803. The original inscription w 28 thermidor an XII' was 
 erased after the Restoration, but was restored after the Revolution of 
 July, 1830, with the addition. 1 Distribution de la dicoration de la Ligion 
 d"Honneur, le 6 aotlt 1804.' In the vicinity is the pilgrimage chapel of 
 Jesus Flagelli. 
 
 Nearer the town, on the chalk dills (falaises) above the bathing 
 establishment, are seen the scanty remnants of a Roman tower, called La 
 Tour d'Ordre (a corruption of turris ardens) , supposed to have been a 
 lighthouse, erected in A. D. 40 by Caligula, who, like Napoleon, made an 
 unsuccessful attempt to invade England from this point. The tower was 
 136 ft. in height and built of brick. When this district was conquered 
 by the English in 1544, the tower stood at a distance of 200 yds. fruin 
 the cliffsbut a century later it fell, and the sea has since made such 
 encroachments that the fragments of the tower are now close to the 
 brink. Model in the museum (p. 278). 
 
280 Route 43. 
 
 ABBEVILLE. 
 
 From London 
 
 From Boulogne to Paris. 
 
 159 31. Chemin de Fer du Nord. Express in 4>/- 2 —5, ordinary trains 
 in 7—T 3 |j lirs.; fares 36 fr. 50, 27 fr. 40, 20 fr. 10 c. 
 
 Quitting the handsome station of Boulogne, the train traverses 
 the valley of the Liane. The country soon becomes flat and unin¬ 
 teresting. To the r. of (3 M.) stat. Pont - de - Briques are the 
 blast furnaces of Autreau. The train passes through a short tunnel. 
 
 9 M. Stat. Neufchdtel. The train traverses sandy downs, 
 and crosses the Cauche by a bridge 550 yds. in length. Beyond 
 (17*/2 M.) stat. Etaples are two lofty lighthouses. — 24 M. Stat. 
 Montreuil. At Berck , 4/4 M. distant (omnibus 1 1/4 fr.) there is a 
 bath - establishment. — 34 V 2 M. Stat. Rue, from which an omni¬ 
 bus (l '/4 fr.) runs to (5 M.) Le Crotoy , a small harbour and sea¬ 
 bathing place on the estuary of the Somme. 
 
 40y 2 M. Stat. Noyelles is situated in the midst of a dreary ex¬ 
 panse of sand. In the vicinity the Somme was crossed by Ed¬ 
 ward III. before the battle of Cressy in 1346. —Branch-line to the 
 r. to (4 M.) St. Vnlery-sur-Somme. 
 
 49 M. Stat. Abbeville (Hotel Tete de Boeuf) is a (doth manufac¬ 
 turing town of ancient origin, with 18,210 inhab., on the Somme, 
 and connected with the sea by means of a canal. The principal 
 object of interest is the unfinished Church of St. Vulfrnn , founded 
 by Cardinal d’Amboise, the minister and favourite of Louis XII., at 
 the beginning of the 16th century. 
 
 The scenery becomes more picturesque, as the train ascends the 
 fertile valley of the Somme. 
 
 541/9 M. Stat. Pont-Remy , with a restored Gothic chateau of the 
 14th and 15th centuries. To the r., a little farther, is the village 
 of Ailly-le-Haut-Clocher , with its lofty church. — 591/2 M. Stat. 
 Longpre. A branch-line diverges hereto Treport , frequented as a 
 sea-bathing place. 
 
 64 M. Stat. Hangest; 681/2 M. Picquigny, with the considerable 
 ruins of a stronghold of the 16th cent. ; 711/ 2 M. Ailly-sur-Somme. 
 The train now passes through two short tunnels and stops at the 
 station of — 
 
 761/2 M. Amiens. Hotels. Hotel ihj Ruin, in the Rue Noyon, the 
 street opposite the station; Hotel de France f.t d’Angleterre , Rue des 
 Rabuissons 19, nearer the centre of the town; Hotel de l’Univers, Rue de 
 Noyon; Hotel i>e Paris, Rue des Jacobins 20, 22, to the 1. of the Rue 
 de Noyon. 
 
 Restaurants. Saisset-Diibois, Rue de Noyon; Marfial-Leprttre. Rue des 
 Rabuissons 14. Co/J Diollot , Place Perigord. 
 
 Amiens, the ancient capital of Picardy, now that of the 
 Department of the Somme, with 64,000 inhab. , and one of the 
 most considerable manufacturing towns in France, is situated 
 on the Somme and its affluents the Avre and the Selle. These 
 streams form numerous canals, which are invaluable for the 
 industrial purposes of the town. The principal manufactures 
 
to Paris. 
 
 AMIENS. 
 
 43. Route. 281 
 
 are linen, woollen stuffs, silk thread, cashmeres, and velvet. The 
 lower part of the town, with its canals and narrow streets, is the 
 manufacturing quarter, while the central part contains the best 
 shops, and the new town is separated from both these quarters by 
 handsome boulevards. In 1802 the Peace of Amiens between 
 France and England was concluded here. On 20th Nov., 1870, 
 the French were defeated near Amiens by the Prussians, who 
 entered the town on the following day. 
 
 The egress of the station is in the boulevards, and opposite the 
 Rue de Noyon. Following the Boulevard de l’Est, to the r., and 
 then the Rue de l’Observatoire, the second to the 1., we soon 
 reach the — 
 
 ^Cathedral , one of the most imposing Gothic churches in 
 Europe, erected in 1220 — 1288 by the architects Robert de Lu- 
 7.arche, Thomas deCormont, and his son Renault. Length 157 yds., 
 length of transept 71 yds., width of nave 48 yds. The heaviness 
 of the building is insufficiently relieved by the lofty spire over 
 the transept, 392 ft. in height, or 145 ft. above the roof, re¬ 
 erected in 1529. The two uncompleted towers of the W. facade 
 belong to the 13th (the lower) and 15th cent., the former being 
 181 ft., the latter 210 ft. in height, but like the central spire they 
 are too small for the edifice. The principal W. Portal, one of the 
 finest parts of the building, was completed towards the end of the 
 14th century. 
 
 The Facade contains three lofty receding porches, richly adorned 
 with reliefs and statues. ' Le beau Dim d'Amiens' is an admirable figure 
 of the Saviour which separates the doors of the central portal. Above 
 the portals are a handsome gallery, niches containing twenty-two co 
 lossal statues of kings of Judah, a magnificent rose-window 38 ft. in dia¬ 
 meter, and still higher a gallery connecting the towers. 
 
 The Interior consists of nave, transept, aisles, and choir, all fianked 
 with chapels. The nave attains the very unusual height of 1-17 ft., being 
 surpassed in this respect by the cathedral of Beauvais alone. The 
 vaulting is borne by 12G remarkably bold columns, tapering towards the 
 top. The stained glass in the rose windows, the triforium, and the choir 
 is ancient. The organ loft dates from 1125, but has been modernised. 
 The bronze monuments of the two bishops who founded the church, one 
 on each side of the nave, are fine works of the 13th cent. The wall of the 
 choir is adorned with reliefs representing on the X. side the history of 
 John the Baptist., on the S. side the life of St. Firmin, sculptured in *1480 
 and 1530. Behind the high-altar is the 'enfant pleureur', a much admired, 
 but overrated weeping angel. 
 
 The *S/aIls of the choir, 110 in number, are fine specimens of carving 
 executed in 1508 — 22. There are no fewer than 3G50 figures. The subjects 
 are scriptural and also represent different human occupations. 
 
 Amiens contains little else to detain the traveller. In the 
 Place at the back of the church is a statue in bronze of Peter 
 the Hermit, or Pierre of Amiens, the promoter of the first crusade. 
 In the Rue dcs Rabuissons are the Prefecture , with a Reffroi partly 
 of the 15th century, and the Musee, containing collections of some 
 merit and modern pictures. In the Place St. Denis rises the co- 
 
282 Route 43. 
 
 AMIENS. 
 
 From London 
 
 lossal statue of Dufresne Ducange (d. 1688), an eminent linguist 
 and native of Amiens. 
 
 On the opposite side of the station, on the W. side of the town, 
 is the pleasant Promenade de la Hotoie. 
 
 A branch-line leads from Amiens to Rouen (in 3 1 /*—4 hrs.). 
 
 791 / 2 M. Stat. Longueau is the junction of the Boulogne and 
 Calais line with the Arras, Hazebrouck, and Calais line (p. 283). 
 
 Near (82'/2 M.) Boves are the ruins of a chateau in which 
 Henri 1Y. frequently resided with the beautiful Gabrielle d’Estrees. 
 Fine view of the valley of the Noye. — 89 M. Ailly-sur-Noye , on 
 an eminence, commanded by a church of the 12th and 13th cent. 
 — 93t/ 2 M. La Faloise. 
 
 99>/ 2 M. Breteuil- Montdidier. Breteuil, with 3000 inhab., 
 4'/ 2 M. from the station (omnibus), contains remains of an abbey 
 of the 11th—13th century. At the village of Folleville , 4 M. to 
 the N. of Breteuil, are the ruins of a chateau, and a late Gothic 
 church containing a monument by Ant. da Porta. A view of these 
 buildings is obtained from the railway, soon after Faloise is quitted. 
 
 104 M. St. Just-en- Cliaussee is the centre of a hosiery manu¬ 
 facturing dictrict. 
 
 1171/-2 1VX. Clermont de l’Oise (Hotel des IJeux-Epees), a tovni 
 with 5774 inhab., pleasantly situated on a hill, is commanded by 
 an ancient castle which has been converted into a prison for women. 
 Above the town rises the church of St. Samson , of the 14th and 
 16tli centuries. The country here is well-peopled and picturesque. 
 
 1221/2 M. Liancourt - sous - Clermont, a manufacturing town 
 with 4000 inhab. Part of an old chateau of the dukes of Roche¬ 
 foucauld -Liancourt is still standing here. It was rebuilt by 
 Jeanne de Schomberg in 1640, and has a beautiful park. The 
 richly decorated church, dating from 1598, contains a good marble 
 monument with two kneeling figures by Coustou. 
 
 By the desire of Henri IV. Gabrielle d’Estre'es was married 
 to a certain Seigneur de Liancourt, a man of deformed person 
 and deficient intellect, on condition that he should never see her 
 again after the ceremony. 
 
 127 M. Creil , beyond which the train skirts the bank of the 
 Oise. Large porcelain factory on an island in the river. 
 
 Beauvais, 1 hr. by railway, to the N.W. of Creil, possesses a magni¬ 
 ficent, though uncompleted, Gothic cathedral, remarkable for its noble 
 and lofty proportions. — The line proceeds to Oournay and thence to 
 Dieppe (p. 284). 
 
 From Creil to (159 M.) Paris, see p. 274. 
 
to Paris. 
 
 CALAIS. 
 
 44. Route. 283 
 
 44. By Dover, Calais, and Amiens. 
 
 283 M. By Express (sec advertisements in ‘Bradshaw’), starting from 
 the London Bridge, Charing Cross, Victoria, and Blackfriars stations, in 
 J0ij. 2 —lli/ 2 hrs. •, sea passage 1 1 |* 2 — 2 lirs.; fares 3/. and 21. 5s.; tickets 
 available for 7 days, with option of halting at Dover, Calais, and Amiens; 
 return-tickets, valid for one month, 4 1. 15s. and 3/. 15s. — Night-service 
 at lower fares, 2nd class 31s. Os., 3rd 21s.; tickets available for 3 days 
 only. The direct route from Calais to Paris via Boulogne (see below) is 
 shorter by 18 1 31. than the route by llazebrouck and Arras; the fares 
 
 are the same for both routes (from Calais to Boulogne, 27 31., in 50 min. 
 to l 1 J 2 hr.; fares 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 95, 2 fr. 90 c.; — to Part's, 186 31., in 
 5 1 I‘ 2 — 10 hrs.; fares 36 fr. 55, 27 fr. 40 , 20 fr. 10 c.). Luggage should be 
 registered, in order that the examination at Calais may be avoided. 
 
 By Steamer from London to Calais twice a week (see ‘Bradshaw’), 
 and thence to Paris by railway, in all 15—20 hrs., exclusive of detention 
 at Calais, where the trains do not correspond with the steamboat; river- 
 passage about 6 hrs.; sea-passage 3 1 /* — 4 1 /*2 hrs.; fares 30s., 22s., 16s., 
 tickets available for 3 days. Steamboat fares alone 11s., 8s. 
 
 Calais. Hotels. 3Ieukice, Rue de Guise; Dessin , Rue Neuve; de 
 Londres , Rue de la Cloche; de Flandke, Rue de la Comedie; Station 
 Hotel. — Restaurants. Sainsard . Rue de la Cloche; Sauvage , Rue de 
 Guise; Railway Restaurant. Cafes de Bellevue , in the Grand’ Place, and 
 de Paris , Rue de la 3Ier. — English Churches: in Calais and in the 
 Basse Ville. — Sea-Bathing: to the N. of the Bassin de Retenue. — Military 
 Music in the Grande Place on Sundays and Thursdays from 2 to 4 o'clock. 
 
 Calais, a town with 12.850 inhab., and a fortress of the first 
 class, derives its chief importance from its harbour and its traffic 
 with England, to which it is the nearest point on the French coast. 
 Dover is 21 M. distant. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville, the handsomest building in the town, 
 situated in the Place d’Armes, is adorned with busts of the Due de 
 Ouise, Tibdrateur de Calais en 1558’, and Richelieu, the founder of 
 the citadel in 1634. The church of Notre Dame, on the E. side of 
 the town, dating from the 12th and chiefly from the 14th cent., has 
 been modernised. The handsome marble altar, an Assumption by 
 Seyhers (1628), and a Descent from the Cross by Rubens may be 
 inspected. 
 
 The Harbour, which is about to be enlarged, is sheltered by 
 two piers, one of which is 1100 yds. in length. The chalk cliffs 
 and the castle of Dover are visible in clear weather. At the be¬ 
 ginning of the long pier rises a marble Column in commemoration of 
 the restoration of Louis XV11I. The faubourg of Couryain, between 
 the column and the town, is chiefly inhabited by fishermen. 
 
 Calais, together with the Basse-Ville, contains more English 
 residents than Boulogne, most of them being lace-manufacturers 
 and persons in humble life. 
 
 From Calais to Boulogne. Stat. St. Pierre-les-Caluis, 2 M. 
 from Calais, is a manufacturing place with 20,000 inhabitants. 
 Marquise, a small town with important marble quarries, is 7 M. 
 from Cup Oris Nez, the nearest point to the English coast, and the 
 
284 Route 45. 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 From London 
 
 proposed starting point of a submarine tunnel between France and 
 England. 
 
 Boulogne, and thence to Paris, see R. 43. 
 
 45. By Newhaven, Dieppe, and Rouen. 
 
 By Express Tidal Train (during the season) from London Bridge, 
 Victoria, and Kensington stations in 12—14>|z hrs. (see advertisements in 
 ‘Bradshaw’); single tickets, available for 7 days , 31 s., 23s., IGs.; return- 
 tickets, available for one month, 52s., 37s. Go'., 29s.; sea-passage about 
 6 hrs. Luggage should be registered. The express trains are first and 
 second class only. This route is one of the cheapest, and in fine weather 
 the pleasantest from London to Paris. 
 
 Dieppe. Hotels. Hotels Rotal, Bristol, des Bains, all facing the 
 shore; Victoria and he Londres opposite the harbour; Chariot i>’Or, 
 *du Commerce, and Armes de France, more moderate. 
 
 Restaurants : Lafosse, Grand’ Rue 90, and adjoining the bath establish¬ 
 ment; Restaurant de la Place d'Armes, Grand’ Rue 5G; Buffet, at the 
 station. — Cafe Suisse, on the quay; Cafi de Rouen, Grand’Rue. 
 
 Cabs i'|i—1'|2 fr. per drive, i'|z — 2 fr. per hour. — Omnibus 30c., at 
 night 50 c., without luggage. 
 
 Steamboats to Newhaven daily, also to London direct. 
 
 English Church Service every Sunday. The Carved Ivory of Dieppe 
 is a specialty of the place. 
 
 Dieppe, with 20,160 inhab., is situated in a valley formed by two 
 ranges of lofty white chalk-cliffs, at the mouth of the Arques, 
 which forms a harbour capable of containing vessels of consider¬ 
 able size. The estuary was formerly termed the '■Deep', from 
 which the town derives its name. As a sea-port and commercial 
 town, the vicinity of Havre has deprived Dieppe of its former 
 importance, and fish is now the staple commodity of the place. 
 As a watering-place, however, it is in a flourishing condition, being 
 annually visited by numerous English, as well as French families. 
 
 The Etablissement des Bains , the principal attraction for 
 visitors, is replete with every convenience. In front of it are 
 placed about 200 small tents, used as dressing-rooms, from which 
 the bathers descend into the water, accompanied by a guide- 
 baigneur, if necessary. In fine weather the scene is very amus¬ 
 ing, and novel withal to the English visitor. 
 
 On the way from the bathing-place to the town is the Bazaar, 
 occupying a circular space, in the centre of which is a mast, with 
 a red flag hoisted when the tide is favourable for bathing. The 
 carved ivory of Dieppe may be purchased here. 
 
 On a precipitous white cliff near the bazaar rises the handsome 
 and extensive Castle, with its massive walls, towers, and bastions, 
 erected in 1433 as a defence against the English. In 1694, how r - 
 ever, it was unable to prevent the wanton cannonade of the 
 English fleet, then returning from an unsuccessful attack on Brest, 
 an unequal contest which resulted in the total destruction of 
 the town. The view from the castle is very extensive. 
 
& Debe~ Xeip: 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
to Paris. 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 45. Route. 285 
 
 The church of St. Jacques , the patron saint of fishermen, 
 in the Place Nationale, an interesting florid Gothic edifice dating 
 from the 14th and 15th cent., has been modernised. Near the 
 church is the Statue of Duquesne, erected in 1844, a celebrated 
 admiral and native of Dieppe (d. 1687). 
 
 The Jetee de I'Ouest, at the N.W. end of the town, affords 
 a pleasant evening promenade, and with the opposite Jetee de I'Est 
 protects the entrance to the harbour. Towards the S.E. the har¬ 
 bour terminates in the Bassin de Retenue , which is flanked by the 
 Cours Bourbon, an avenue 2/3 M. in length. 
 
 The Oyster Park which the Bassin de Itetenue contains was 
 formerly one of the principal sources from which Paris derived 
 its supplies. The oysters are first brought from the inexhaustible 
 beds of Cancale and Granville to St. Vaust near Cherbourg, whence 
 they are afterwards removed to Dieppe. Here they are ‘travail- 
 le'es’, or dieted, in such a way as materially to improve their 
 flavour and render them fit for exportation. Adjoining the oyster- 
 park is an unpretending restaurant, where the delicious bivalve 
 may be enjoyed in perfection (75 c. to 1 fr. per dozen). 
 
 Le Pollet , a suburb of Dieppe inhabited by sailors and fisher¬ 
 men, adjoins the Bassin de Retenue on the N. side. The popula¬ 
 tion is said to be descended from an ancient Venetian colony. 
 
 On the coast, 1>|2 M. to the N. E. of this point, is situated the so- 
 called Camp de Ctsar , near which there is another Bathing-place , with 
 a restaurant, affording greater privacy than the beach at Dieppe. 
 
 The most interesting point in the environs of Dieppe is the ruined 
 castle of Arques, situated about 4 M. to the S. E. and memorable in 
 history as the scene of a victory gained by Henri IV. over the League 
 in 15S9. 
 
 The excursion may be made by boat (ascent DJi, descent 3 h hr.) or by 
 carriage (in 1>|2 hr., via St. Pierre). The view from the castle em¬ 
 braces the valleys of the Arques, the Bithune, and the Eaulne , and repays 
 the ascent. 
 
 From Dieppe to Paris. 
 
 125*/a M. Railway via Rouen in 3 hrs. 50 min. to 662 hrs.; fares 24 fr 
 75, 18 tr. 55, 13 fr. 60 c. — Another line via Neufchdtel , Gournay, Gisors, 
 and Pontoise was opened in June, 1874 (in 5 1 (3 hrs. ; fares 20 fr. 65. 
 15 fr. 50, 11 fr. 35 e.). 
 
 Soon after quitting Dieppe the train passes through a tunnel, 
 upwards of 1 M. in length , and then enters the valley of the 
 Scie, which it crosses 22 times. After passing several unim¬ 
 portant stations, the train reaches Malaunay (p. 293), where the 
 Rouen-Havre and Dieppe lines unite. From this point to Rouen tho 
 district traversed is cheerful and picturesque, abounding in cot¬ 
 ton and other factories. 
 
 38 M. Rouen. Hotels Hotels d'Alrion and d'Akgleterre, both 
 on the quay, R. 2*|2—5 fr. , B. 1 • J 2 fr., D. 3 fr. ; Hotel de France, Rue 
 des Cannes 97—99, R. 3, 13. I1J2, D. 4, L. and A. 1 fr.; Grand Font, less 
 expensive; Hotel du Square, Rue Jeanne d’Arc, or de lTmperatrice; de 
 Normandie, Rue du Bac 13, commercial, R. l l | 2 , D. 2 fr. ; du Grand 
 
286 Route 45. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 From London 
 
 Vatel, Rue des Carmes 70; dr Paris, on (lie quay; du Nord , Rue de la 
 Grosse Horloge, 91. 
 
 Restaurants. *ffeurtevent, Quai de la Bourse; Hugnot, Cours Boieldieu 1, 
 and Rue du Grand Pont; Queruel, also in the Cours Boieldieu; Cafi de 
 la Place Notre Dame, near the cathedral, etc. Buffet at. the station. 
 
 Omnibus from the station to the town 30, with luggage 40 c.; at night. 
 60 or 70 c.; several different lines traverse the city. 
 
 Cabs 1 fr. 25 c. per drive, i*( 2 fr. per hour; luggage >|-j fr.; fares higher 
 at night (12—6 a. m.). 
 
 Post Office, Rues Jeanne d’Arc and St. Sever. Telegraph Office, Quai 
 de la Bourse. 
 
 English Church Service in the chapel at. Sotteville at 11 a. m., and in 
 the French Protestant Church, Place St. Eloi. 
 
 Steamboat to Havre daily in 5—6 hrs., fares 5 and 4 fr., pleasant, but 
 tedious; hours vary with the tide. 
 
 Rouen , formerly the capital of Normandy, now that of the De¬ 
 partment of the Seine Inferieure, with 102,670 inhab., exclusive 
 of the suburbs, is the richest city in France in mediaeval archi¬ 
 tecture. Rouen is of great importance on account of its cotton 
 factories, and has not inaptly been termed the Manchester of 
 France. It is also one of the principal depots of the wines 1 of 
 Bordeaux, which are conveyed hither by small sea vessels on 
 the Seine, the mouth of which is 74 M. distant by water. As 
 in ancient times, this city and its environs are renowned for 
 their superior breed of horses, and for the robust physique of 
 the inhabitants, who furnish the French army with some of its 
 finest troops. 
 
 The city is bounded on the S. by the Seine , which is here 
 upwards of 300 yds. in breadth, and which separates Rouen from 
 the suburb of St. Sever (20,000 inhab.). 
 
 The other sides of the city are bounded by the Boulevards, 
 which resemble those of Paris, though of course less animated. The 
 suburbs outside the boulevards are chiefly occupied by artizans. 
 
 The Seine is crossed by two bridges which unite Rouen with 
 St. Sever. The Pont d’Orleans , the upper of these, constructed 
 in 1829, crosses from St. Sever to the lower end of the lie La¬ 
 croix , where there is a statue by David d’Angers of Corneille, 
 a native of Rouen (d. 1684), and thence to Rouen. Farther down 
 the river is the Brand Pont, or Pont Suspendu, a suspension bridge 
 completed in 1836, which affords an admirable survey. The L Petite 
 Provence ’, an avenue opposite the latter, is adorned with a statue 
 of the eminent composer Boieldieu (d. 1834). 
 
 The ^Cathedral, or Notre Dame, the principal parts of which 
 date from 1207—80, is one of the grandest Gothic edifices in Nor¬ 
 mandy, although remarkably unsymmetrical in plan. The central 
 portal of the W. facade, towards the Place, was erected by Cardinal 
 d’Amboise, the favourite minister of Louis XII. , at the beginning 
 of the 16th cent. , and profusely decorated in the florid style. The 
 two unfinished towers of the facade are of unequal height. The Tour 
 de Beurre , the loftier and more beautiful, 230 ft. in height, derives 
 
to Paris. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 45. Route. 287 
 
 its name from having been erected with the money paid for indul¬ 
 gences to eat butter during Lent. The central spire over the transept, 
 having been ignited by lightning and burned down in 1822, was 
 replaced by a most unsightly tower of cast iron , 465 ft. in height. 
 A spiral staircase ascends to the summit. 
 
 The Interior of the church (149 yds. in length ; transept 59 yds. in 
 length *, nave and aisles 35 yds. in width; 92 ft. in height) is in the early 
 pointed style, and possesses three fine rose windows in the nave and 
 transepts. The last chapel on the S. side of the nave contains the tomb of 
 Rollo (d. 927), first Duke of Normandy, and the corresponding chapel on the 
 N. side that of his son William , Longue Epee (d. 943). The Chapelle du 
 Christ , adjoining the high altar, contains an ancient mutilated figure in 
 limestone, 7 ft. in height, of Richard Coeur de Lion (d. 1199), discovered 
 in 1838. His heart, which was interred in the choir, was found at the 
 same time, and is now preserved in the museum. Its original resting-place 
 in the choir is indicated by a small marble tablet with a Latin inscription. 
 
 To the right in the beautiful Chapelle de la Vierge is the magnificent 
 * Monument of Cardinal George d'Amhoise and his nephew, who was also 
 a cardinal, executed in 1525. To the left is the handsome * Monument of 
 the Due de Brixt (d. 1530), grand seneschal of Normandy , erected by his 
 widow, the celebrated Diana of Poitiers (d. 1566), mistress of Henri II., 
 and attributed to the sculptors Jean Cousin and Jean Goujon (p. 90). —The 
 altarpiece, representing the Adoration of the shepherds, is by Ph. de 
 Champaigne. 
 
 *St. Maclou, *un diminutif de St. Ouen’, as it has been termed, 
 is a very rich example of the florid Gothic style of the 15tli century. 
 The modern spire was completed in 1809. The wooden doors are 
 remarkable for their exquisitely carved reliefs, ascribed to Jean 
 Goujon. 
 
 **St. Ouen , one of the most exquisite Gothic churches in 
 existence, far surpasses the cathedral, botli in extent and in ex¬ 
 cellence of style. It was founded in 1318, and completed towards 
 the close of the 15th century. The original plan having been 
 followed throughout, the edifice exhibits a rare harmony of design. 
 The tower over the transept, 268 ft. in height, is surmounted by 
 an octagonal open-work lantern , terminating in a gallery -which 
 commands a fine prospect. 
 
 The rich Fagade contains three portals adorned with numerous 
 statues and reliefs. Above the central portal is a magnificent rose 
 window, still higher is an arcade with eleven statues, and the whole 
 is crowned with a pediment bearing a statue of St. Ouen (d. 678), 
 archbishop of Rouen. The towers have recently been completed, 
 although not in strict harmony with the rest of the edifice. 
 
 The S. ‘ Portail des Marmousets', so called from the figures of the 
 animals with which it is adorned, deserves minute inspection. The 
 reliefs above the door represent the Death and Assumption of the Virgin. 
 
 The proportions of the interior (151 yds. in length, 28 yds. in width: 
 transept 40 yds. in length; 106ft. in height) are remarkably happy. The 
 walls appear to he almost superseded by the numerous windows,' 135 in 
 number, all filled with stained glass. The unusually lofty triforium is 
 exceedingly beautiful. In the nave and transepts are tliree fine oriel- 
 windows, also filled with stained glass. 
 
 The verger (1 fr.) shows the choir chapels, and points out several 
 spots which command fine views of the interior. 
 
288 Route 45. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 From London 
 
 At the hack of the church and the adjoining Hotel de Ville 
 is a pleasant garden to which the public are admitted. The 
 Chambre aux Clercs, a Norman tower of the 11th cent., adjoins 
 the church on this side, and probably formed part of an earlier 
 church on the same site. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville, on the N. side of the church, a building- 
 in the Italian style, contains a Picture Gallery of little value and a 
 Library of 110,000 vols. and several valuable MSS. In front of 
 the Town Hall rises the Equestrian Statue of Napoleon /., by 
 Vital -Dubray. 
 
 The *Musee des Antiquites, established in the cloisters of an 
 ancient convent, in the Rue Beauvoisine, is an interesting col¬ 
 lection of Roman and mediieval antiquities, sculptures, curiosi¬ 
 ties, etc. Admission daily from 12 to 4; at other times for a fee 
 of 1 fr. 
 
 The Tour du Donjon , or de Jeanne d’Arc , in the Rue de Jeanne 
 d’Arc, or de lTmpe'ratrice, is a relic of a citadel erected by Philip 
 Augustus in 1205, where Joan of Arc was once imprisoned. 
 
 The *Palais de Justice, in thelate florid Gothic style, resembles 
 the handsome town halls of Belgium, although consisting of a single 
 storey only. The central part of the edifice and the projecting wings 
 form an entrance-court, enclosed by a railing. The left wing, the 
 Salle des Procureurs, erected in 1493, is a spacious hall with an 
 open roof, once used as an exchange. The central part was erected 
 six years later, for the Cour de VEchiquier , the supreme tribunal of 
 Normandy, which under Francis I. was termed ‘parliament’. The 
 assizes are now held here. — The concierge (*/2 fr.) shows the 
 different apartments. 
 
 The Tour de la Grosse IIorloge , or Beffroi (belfry), which 
 rises in the vicinity, was erected in 1389. The bridge across the 
 street and the arch which unite the tower with the Hotel de Ville 
 date from 1527. Several of the houses in this narrow, but very 
 picturesque Grand’ Rue merit inspection. 
 
 Farther to the W., near the Theatre, is the Place de la Pucelle , 
 where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. About 24 years 
 later she was declared innocent of the crime of witchcraft by a papal 
 bull, and the French, who it is well known had been her betrayers, 
 being now masters of Rouen, erected a cross to her memory on the 
 spot where she suffered. The place is now occupied by a paltry 
 figure over a fountain. 
 
 The adjoining Hotel du Bourgtheroulde, which was erected 
 at the close of the 15th cent., in the style of the Palais de Justice, 
 contains a number of reliefs, one of which represents the interview 
 on the ‘Field of the Cloth of Gold’. The graceful hexagonal tower 
 is decorated with sculptures from scriptural subjects. 
 
 Descending hence to the Quai du Havre, we now proceed along 
 the quay to the *Mont Ste. Catherine' (405 ft.), which rises at 
 
to Paris. 
 
 VERNON. 
 
 45. Route. 289 
 
 the E. eml of the city, immediately beyond the Champ de Mars. 
 The ascent requires l/ 2 hr. The summit is occupied by a few frag¬ 
 ments of a fortress, which Henri IV. caused to be demolished, and 
 commands an extensive view. 
 
 A still finer prospect may be enjoyed from the recently con¬ 
 structed pilgrimage church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours , or 
 *Bon Skcotjrs as it is usually called, situated on the lofty bank of 
 the river, 2 M. above Rouen. The view embraces the city, the 
 course of the river for many miles above and below Rouen, and in 
 the distance the rich and verdant pastures of Normandy. 
 
 A pleasant excursion may be taken to La Bouille, 12'|a M. below 
 Rouen, by the local steamboat starting at 6 a. m. and returning at 2 p. 
 m. The right bank of tbe Seine is bounded by precipitous chalk-bills, 
 and studded with picturesque country houses aud parks, whilst the left 
 bank consists of rich meadows and pasturage. 
 
 La Bouille (HStel de la Renaissance) is a small but busy town, where 
 several important high roads unite. The Chateau de Robert le Diable , the 
 scanty ruins of which occupy the summit of a hill in the vicinity, affords 
 a charming prospect of the wooded mountains, parts of the valley of 
 the Seine with its white chalk-hills, and in the distance Rouen with 
 the cathedral. 
 
 From Rouen to Paris. Passing by means of three tunnels 
 under the Boulevards St. Hilaire and Beauvoisine, and the Mont 
 Ste. Catherine, the train crosses the Seine, affording a beautiful 
 view of Rouen to the right. To the left, on the Cote, or hills which 
 rise from the river, stands the church of Bon Secours. At Sotte- 
 ville, the first station, the English church is situated. Beyond 
 Oissel the train crosses the Seine. Tourvilte is the station for 
 Elbeuf (Hotel de Paris), 6 M. distant, a cloth-manufacturing town, 
 with 22,850 inhab., to which steamboats also run from Rouen. 
 The Renaissance churches of St. Jean and St. Etienne contain fine 
 stained glass of the 15th and 16th centuries. 
 
 Pont de l'Arche, where the Seine is again crossed, above the 
 influx of the Eure, is the junction of a line to Oisors. St. Pierre 
 du Vauvray is the station for Louviers , a town with extensive cloth- 
 factories, and a church of Notre Dame with a beautiful porch of 
 the 15th century. The train nowpenetrates the chalk hills by means 
 of two tunnels. 
 
 The station of Gaillon is situated opposite the village of 
 Courcelles. The chateau of Gaillon, erected in 1500, was one 
 of the finest in Normandy, and was the favourite residence of 
 Francis I. The lofty facade has been transferred to the court of 
 the Ecole des Beaux Arts at Paris (p. 215). The castle is now 
 used as a prison. 
 
 75 1 /.) M. Vernon, once a strongly fortified town, possesses 
 a conspicuous tower, erected in 1123 by Henry 1. of England. 
 The Church is an interesting building of the 12th—15th cent. 
 
 B^ueker. Paris. 4th Edition. 19 
 
290 Route 45 . 
 
 MANTES. 
 
 From London 
 
 The chateau of Bizy in the vicinity was once the property of Louis 
 Philippe. A branch line to Gisors diverges here. 
 
 The long tunnel between Bonnieres and Rolleboise cuts off the 
 wide circuit which the river describes here. 
 
 At the chateau of Rosny, Sully, the celebrated minister of 
 Henri IV. , was born in 1559. It was afterwards the property of 
 the Duchess of Berry, who resided in it from 1818 to 1830. 
 
 92Y2 M. Mantes ( Hotel du Grand Cerf ; Buffet at the station), 
 surnamed l La Jolie\ is a picturesque town with 5697 inh. The 
 lofty towers of the Gothic church of Notre Dame, dating from the end 
 of the 12tli cent., arc conspicuous objects in the town. The portal 
 is richly sculptured. The old tower of St. Maclou, 14th—15th 
 cent., is also interesting. The railway from Paris to Caen and 
 Cherbourg diverges here. 
 
 The line continues to skirt the banks of the Seine, and fre¬ 
 quently commands line views. Several unimportant stations. 
 
 108 M. Poissy, a town with 50,000 inhab., was the birthplace 
 of St. Louis, who frequently styled himself ‘Louis de Poissy’. 
 Here in 1561 a conference was assembled by order of the States 
 General, with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman 
 Catholic and Protestant parties. Their deliberations, however, led 
 to no result, owing to the strong condemnation of the Calvinists by 
 the Sorbonne, the celebrated theological faculty of Paris. —The 
 principal church, a fine building of the 11th—17th cent., is 
 undergoing restoration. 
 
 Conflans , at the confluence of the Seine and Oise, lies to the 
 left. The train now traverses the forest of St. Germain (p. 259). 
 At Maisons-Laffitte the Seine is again crossed. The chateau was 
 formerly the property of the Comte d’Artois (Charles X.). It was 
 afterwards presented to Marshal Lannes by Napoleon, and finally 
 purchased by M. Laffitte, the banker. 
 
 Near Bezons the line recrosses the Seine, and at Cotombes unites 
 with the St. Germain railway. St. Germain with its palace is a 
 conspicuous object on the hill to the right. 
 
 The Seine is crossed for the last time at Asnieres (p. 235), near 
 which the lines to Argenteuil and Versailles diverge. The train 
 now passes Clichy and intersects the fortifications of Paris; on 
 emerging from a short tunnel under the Place de l’Europe it reaches 
 the station in the Rue St. Lazare at — 
 
 125 72 M. Paris. Conveyances, seep. 1. 
 
 46. By Southampton, Havre, and Rouen. 
 
 By Railway to Southampton in 3 hours \ by Steamboat to Havre three 
 times a week at least in summer, generally at 11. 45 p. m. (see advertise¬ 
 ments in ‘Bradshaw'') in 9—10 hrs. \ by Express from Havre to Paris in 
 4>|2 hrs. \ by ordinary trains in 7 1 ^ hrs. omnibus from the quay to the 
 station at Havre not included in the fare. Single tickets, available for 
 
CLATCCV. 
 
to Paris. 
 
 LE HAVRE. 
 
 46. Route. 291 
 
 4 days, 31s. and 22 s. 9 d. ; return - tickets, available for one month, 51s. 
 8d. and 37s. 2d. — Luggage may be registered direct to Paris. — This 
 ‘cheap and picturesque’ route, as it is styled in the advertisements, is one 
 of the pleasantest in fine weather. 
 
 By Steamboat from London to Havre direct twice a week (see adver¬ 
 tisements of General Steam Navigation Co.), average passage , including 
 5—6 hrs. in the Thames, 16 hrs.; fares 11s. and 8s.; return - tickets 
 available for one month at a fare and a half. 
 
 Le Havre. Hotels. Hotel Frascati, opposite the beach, good table 
 d'hote, and baths; *Hotel de L’AMiRAUTfi, Grand Quai 43, R. from 3, D. 
 
 3>| 2 , L. and A. 1*|2 fr.; Hotels du Louvre and des Indf.s, both in the 
 Grand Quai; de l'Europe, Rue de Paris; de Normandie, Rue de Paris, 
 moderate. — Restaurants. Guichard, Felix , both in the Place de l’Hotel 
 de Ville; Bert, Place Louis XVI; Cafes Tortoni, des Arcades , and others, 
 Place Louis XVI; Alcazar, Chaussee d’Ingouville, a concert every evening. 
 — Omnibus to the station 30 c. — Cab 1 fr. 40 c. per drive. — English 
 Church , Rue d’Orle'ans; American, Rue de la Paix. — Steamboats to 
 Honfleur, Trouville, Caen, Southampton, London, New York, etc. 
 
 Le Havre, formerly called Havre de Grace, from a chapel of 
 Notre Dame de Grace founded by Louis XII. in 1509, was fortified 
 by Francis I. in 1516, and is now the harbour for Paris, and one 
 of the most important seaports of France (86,835 inhab.). The 
 buildings and the commercial prosperity of the town are of very 
 recent origin. Its situation at the mouth of the Seine is extremely 
 advantageous. Next to Marseilles, Havre is the most important 
 sea-port of France. The average annual value of the exports is 
 729 million fr. , that of the imports 541 million. The import 
 duties amount to about 50, the export to 60 million fr. 
 
 The Rue de Paris, intersecting the town from N. to S., is the 
 centre of traffic. It begins at the Porte d’Ingouville , crosses the 
 Place Louis XVI., or du Spectacle, and the Place de la Bourse, 
 and ends near the harbour. The new Boulevard de Strasbourg, 
 beginning at the railway-station, also leads to the sea, passing 
 between the handsome modern Hotel de Ville and the Place de l'Hotel 
 de Ville, with its Jardin Public. 
 
 The old fortifications have been demolished, but the town and 
 harbour are commanded by new forts erected on the heights of 
 Ingouville and Ste. Adresse (p. 292). 
 
 The extensive docks are capable of containing 500—600 vessels 
 of considerable tonnage , which can enter and quit the harbour 
 during 3 hrs. every tide. The Retenue de la Floride is a large basin, 
 by means of which, with the aid of a series of locks, the 
 deposits of the Seine at the mouth of the harbour arc prevented 
 from accumulating. This basin is connected with the large Bassin 
 de VEure, constructed in 1846—1856, where the huge Transatlantic 
 steamers lie. Extensive operations are still in progress for the 
 improvement and fortification of the harbour. 
 
 In 1796, Admiral Sir Sidney Smith, in an unsuccessful attempt 
 to capture a French vessel, close to the guns of the citadel, was 
 stranded on the shallows of the estuary of the Seine, and taken 
 prisoner by the French. 
 
 19 * 
 
292 Route 40. 
 
 TROUVILLE. 
 
 From London 
 
 Opposite the harbour rises the Mus6e, in front of which are 
 statues by David d’Angers of Bernardin de St. Pierre (author of 
 ‘Paul et Yirginie’, to which the reliefs refer) and Casimir de la 
 Vigne, the dramatist, both natives of Havre. The Museum (open 
 on Thursdays and Sundays 10—4 o’clock, at other times for a 
 gratuity) contains several saloons with stuffed animals, casts, 
 pictures, coins, etc., and a library of 30,000 vols. 
 
 The *Jetee , or pier, near the Hotel Frascati, terminating in 
 a lighthouse, commands a fine view. Numerous boats here afford 
 the visitor an opportunity of enjoying an excursion by water. 
 
 As Havre itself contains little to interest the traveller, those 
 who have a few hours at their disposal should ascend the height 
 on which Ingouville, a town with 12,000 inhab., is situated. Ingou- 
 ville, and Oraville , another contiguous town, were united with 
 Havre in 1856, and contain numerous and handsome villas and 
 gardens. The *view from the lighthouse which occupies the summit 
 of the hill, 1 1 / 4 M. distant from the harbour of Havre , embraces 
 the town with its forest of masts, the estuary of the Seine, to 
 the S. W. in the distance the Rochers de Calvados, celebrated for 
 their oyster-beds, and to the N. the promontory of La H'eve with 
 its two lighthouses. 
 
 Havre being a convenient point of embarkation for the New 
 World, shoals of emigrants are periodically encountered here. 
 
 Ste. Adresse (Hotel cles Bains , concerts during tlie season; H6tel des 
 Phares), delightfully situated a little to the N.E. of Havre, and sheltered 
 from the N. winds, attracts a considerable annually number of visitors. 
 
 Honfleur (Cheval Blanc; Dauphin), a picturesque fishing-town, on the 
 opposite bank of the estuary of the Seine (by steamboat in 35 min., 
 fares 2 fr., i fr. 25 c., 75 c.), with 9553 inhab., affords a delightful 
 summer residence. (Railway in 6—8 hrs. to Paris by Lisieux , a 
 station on the Paris and Cherbourg line.) The *Cdte de Grace with its 
 pilgrimage chapel commands a magnificent prospect. The church of Ste. 
 Catherine contains two pictures of some merit by Q,uellyn and Jordaens. 
 Honfleur exports large quantities of eggs, poultry, vegetables, and fruit 
 to England. 
 
 Trouville-sur-Mer ( Hotels: *des Roches Noires , R. 5—20, ddj. 4 l | 2 , D. 
 15 fr.; *de Paris , R. 5—20, ddj. 3*|2, I). 6 fr. • du Bras d'Or , R. 2—10 fr., 
 dej. 2»| 2 , D. 3*|2} d'Angleterre; Bellevue; de la Mer. The Casino contains 
 concert, reading and ball-rooms} admission l j< 2 —2 fr.), situated about 
 10 M. to the S.W. of Honfleur (by railway in 30 mjn.; by steamboat 
 from Havre in 1 hr.), is now a fashionable watering-place, frequented by 
 Parisians of the upper classes (5800 inhab.). The situation is pleasant, 
 and the beach for bathing excellent. A number of handsome villas have 
 sprung up in the environs. Deauville , a rival ofTronville, and a number 
 of less pretending watering-places sprinkled along the coast also afford 
 good summer quarters. 
 
 From Havre to Paris. 
 
 142*12 M. Railway in 4 1 / 2 —7*|2 hrs.; fares 28 fr. 10, 21 fr. 5, 15 fr. 
 45 c. — Steamboat up the Seine to Rouen daily in 7—8 hrs. ; fares 5 
 and 4 fr., somewhat tedious, but scenery very pleasing at places. 
 
 The railway station at Havre is near the Cours de la Republi- 
 que, not far from the Bassin Vauban. On quitting the station we 
 
YVETOT. 
 
 to Paris. 
 
 46. Route. 293 
 
 observe Graville, with its curious church of the 11th cent., on the 
 high ground to the left. 
 
 Harfleur, the first station , once an important seaport, is now 
 entirely superseded by Havre. Its harbour has been filled up 
 by the deposits of the Lezarde , which falls into the Seine here. 
 In 1405 the town was taken by Henry Y. of England, to whom the 
 foundation of the fine Gothic church is attributed. 
 
 From Beuzeville-Breaute a branch-line diverges to Fecamp. 
 The train crosses a lofty viaduct. 
 
 19>/2 M. Bolbec-Nointot is the station for Bolbec, a thriving ma¬ 
 nufacturing town with 10,200 inhab., 2 M. to the S. 
 
 26'/4 M. Yvetot is another manufacturing place with 8300 
 inhabitants, the ancient counts or soi-disants kings of which are 
 thus described by Be'ranger in his usual playful manner: 
 
 ‘II etait un roi d’Yvetot, Dormant fort bien sans gloire, 
 
 Peu connu dans i'histoire, Et couronne par Jeanneton 
 Se levant tard, secouchanttot, Dun simple bonnet de coton' 
 
 From Motteville an omnibus (fares 2 fr. 25, 2 fr. 75 c.) runs to 
 St. Valery-en-Caux, frequented as a bathing-place. The pleasant 
 village of Pavilly is commanded by the chateau of Esneval, now 
 used as a manufactory. The train now quits the undulating and 
 fertile table-land of the Pays de Caux , and descends to the viaduct 
 of Barentin, 570 yds. in length, and 100 ft. above the level of 
 the valley. Shortly afterwards it enters a tunnel, nearly H /2 M. in 
 length, on emerging from which it soon reaches( 44'/ 2 M.) Malaunay, 
 where the Dieppe line diverges. From this point to Rouen, and 
 Paris (142 1 / 2 M. from Havre), see pp. 285—200. 
 
 B. ROUTES FROM PARIS TO THE RHINE 
 AND SWITZERLAND. 
 
 47. From Paris to Cologne, by Namur and Liege. 
 
 307*12 M. By Express (via Compiegne, St. Quentin, and Hautmont) from 
 the Station du Nord in 12 hrs. , by ordinary trains in 15—18 hrs.; fares 
 57 fr. 15, and 42 fr. 55 c. First-class passengers only are conveyed by 
 the express trains. The second-class carriages of the French and 
 Belgian lines are inferior to those of the German railways. 
 
 Passengers with through-tickets undergo no custom-house examination, 
 except that, of small articles carried in the hand, until they reach their 
 destination, Aix-la-Chapelle, or Cologne. Carriages are not changed in the 
 express trains from Paris to Cologne, but their position in the train is 
 often altered, and the traveller should observe the number of his carriage 
 on quitting it. 
 
294 Route 47. 
 
 ST. QUENTIN, 
 
 From Paris. 
 
 At Creil (p. 274) the trains for Boulogne, Calais, Lille, Ghent, 
 and one of the routes to Brussels diverge from the direct line from 
 Paris to Cologne. 
 
 52^2 M. Compiegne, see p. 275. 
 
 67Y 2 M. Noyon (Hotel du Nord) , the Noviomagus Veroman- 
 duorum of the Romans, a pleasant town with 6268 inliab., the birth¬ 
 place of Calvin (1509), contains a handsome *Cathedral in the trans¬ 
 ition style, of the 11th and 12th centuries. The towers, 202 ft. 
 in height, are unfinished, and the facade unfortunately in bad preser¬ 
 vation. In the interior the triforium shows the combination of the 
 circular and pointed styles. To the N. and at the back of the 
 choir are the chapter-house and remains of Gothic cloisters. 
 
 771/o M. Chauny, a town with 8800 inliab., on the Oise, is 
 noted for its bleaching grounds. — Branch-line to (O 1 ^ M.) St. Qo- 
 bain, famed for its plate glass manufactory. 
 
 82 M. Tergnier (Restaurant), a small town with a large factory 
 for the construction and repair of locomotives, is the junction of 
 branch-lines to Amiens by Ham and to Laon by La Fere. 
 
 Beyond Tergnier the train crosses the canal of St. Quentin and 
 passes stat. Montescourt. 
 
 97 M. St. Quentin (Hotel du Oygne), a fortified town on the 
 Somme, with 38,810 inliab., is one of the most important linen 
 and cotton manufacturing towns in France. The Eglise Collegiale 
 is a fine Gothic structure, the choir dating from 1257, and the 
 nave from 1456. The Hotel de Ville, an interesting building dating 
 from the 14th and 15th cent., resembles the Belgian town-halls 
 of the same period. 
 
 In 1557, the Spaniards with their English, German, and Fle¬ 
 mish auxiliaries, under the Duke of Savoy, totally defeated the 
 French under Ooligny and the Constable Montmorency, near 
 St. Quentin. On 19th Jan., 1871, the French ‘Arm 6 e du Nord’ 
 under Faidherbe was also defeated near St. Quentin by the Pruss¬ 
 ians under Gen. Goeben, and thrown back on Lille in great 
 confusion. 
 
 112 M. Busigny is the junction for Cambrai. The Selle is now 
 crossed by a handsome viaduct, 258 yds. long, and 78 ft. high. 
 
 II 8 Y 2 M. Le Gateau-Cambresis , where peace was concluded 
 between France and Spain in 1559. — 126 Y ->M. Landrecies, a small 
 fortress on the Sambre. The train enters the forest of Mormal, 
 crosses the line from Valenciennes to Mezieres, and the Sambre, 
 and passes Aulnoye and Hautmont. — 143 M. Maubeuge (Grand 
 Cerf), a fortress of the first class on the Sambre, with 11,234 
 inliab. . and formerly the capital of Hainault. The direct line 
 from Paris to Brussels diverges here (p. 296). 
 
 148Ya M. Jeumont (Buffet) is the last French, and (15CH/2 M.) 
 Erquelines the first Belgian station; custom-house formalities at 
 the former on entering, at the latter on quitting France. Thuin 
 
to Cologne. 
 
 NAMUR. 
 
 47. Route. 295 
 
 is picturesquely situated on an eminence. A more interesting 
 district, watered by the Sombre, is now entered. 
 
 I 68 Y 2 M. Charleroi (Hotel Durin ; Grand Monarque), a ma¬ 
 nufacturing town with 12,837 inhab., was founded by Charles II. f 
 of Spain in 1666, and named after him. It is connected with 
 Brussels by a canal, and is the junction of six different railways. 
 
 The train now passes several stations with extensive foundries, 
 and frequently crosses the Sambre. 
 
 191 1/2 M. Namur ( Hotels de Harscamp, de l’Industrie, de Hol- 
 lande, and Bellevue , in the town; Messageries, Rechler, Couronne, 
 and du Nord, opposite the station), the strongly fortified capital 
 of this province of Belgium, with 25,574 inhab., is prettily 
 situated at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre. The town 
 is uninteresting. 
 
 To the r., opposite stat. Marche-les-Hames, is a chateau of the 
 Due d’Aremberg. Opposite stat. Nam'eche is the ruined castle of 
 Samson. The next important station is — 
 
 2 KB /2 M. Huy (Aigle Noir), a town with 11.000 inhab., pictures¬ 
 quely situated, with a strong citadel, a fine Gothic church, and a hand¬ 
 some bridge. Stations Hermalle and Engis, with chateaux. Then, near 
 Flemalle, to the r., is the castle of Aigremont, occupied in the 15th 
 cent, by William de la Mark, the ‘Wild Boar of the Ardennes’, and 
 said to have been built by the mythical Quatre Fils Aymon. To the 
 1. the chateau of Chokier. To the r. is the town of Seraing , with 
 its celebrated iron works and coal mines, which employ 3000 hands. 
 The train continues to follow the course of the Meuse and soon 
 reaches — 
 
 229 M. Liege (H6tels de Suede, d’Angleterre, de VEurope, de la 
 Pommelette, du Grand Cerf, de France, Schiller; Restaurants des 
 Deux Fontaines, Venitien, and de la Gare), the picturesquely situ¬ 
 ated capital (104,905 inhab. ) of the Walloon district, gradually 
 rising to a considerable height above the river. The extensive 
 manufactories of weapons, cutlery, and machinery established here 
 consume a large proportion of the coal yielded by the neighbour¬ 
 ing mines. The numerous lofty chimneys afford an indication of 
 the industrial character of the district. 
 
 The Palais de Justice and the churches of St. Jacques and St. 
 Paul are the most interesting buildings at Liege.'j' 
 
 Soon after quitting Lidge, the train passes the extensive zinc- 
 foundry of the Vieille Montagne company. To the r. the picturesque 
 watering-place Chaudfontaine; to the 1. the chateau of La Rochette; 
 r. LeTrooz, the chateau of Fraipont on an eminence, Nessonvaux, the 
 ‘Chateau des Ma sure s', and Pepinster, the junction for Spa ('/.> hr.). 
 
 For a fuller account of this route see ‘■Baedeker's Belgium and Hol¬ 
 land', or ‘ Baedeker's Rhine'. 
 
296 Route 48. 
 
 MONS. 
 
 ‘244 M. Verviers (Hotel du Chemin de Fer, near the station; 
 Buffet at the station), with 33,312 inhali., is a prosperous manu¬ 
 facturing town, of which cloth is the staple product. Passengers 
 by express do not change carriages, but as the train is generally 
 re-arranged here, those who alight should take care to note the 
 number of their carriage. Stoppage of 15—30 minutes. 
 
 Near Dolhain, the last Belgian station, picturesquely situated 
 in the valley of the Vesdre, rises the ancient ruined fortress of 
 Limburg on an eminence, a relic of the once flourishing capital 
 of the duchy of that name, which was destroyed by Louis XIV. 
 in 1675. 
 
 255 M. Herbesthal is the Prussian frontier-station, where small 
 articles of luggage are examined by the custom-house officials. 
 Beyond it the train passes through two tunnels, and then descends 
 to the ancient imperial city of — 
 
 264 M. Aix-la-Chapelle, Ger. Aachen (Hotels: *du Grand 
 Monarque; Nuellens; Frank; Dragon d’Or; *Hoyer; de l'Union, 
 at the station; Dubik; *Jugel; Kbnig von Spanien; Hotel Royal, 
 near the Bhenish station ; English Church in the Anna Strasse), 
 with 73,722 inhab., situated in a fertile plain enclosed by hills. 
 The Cathedral, the octagonal part of which was erected by Char¬ 
 lemagne in 796—804, is a most interesting monument of early 
 Christian architecture. The Sulphur-baths of Aix and the adjacent 
 town of Burtscheid, or Borcette, are much frequented. 
 
 Beyond Aix-la-Chapelle the country is picturesque, and con¬ 
 tinues to present the same busy aspect. Beyond the long tunnel 
 of Koenigsdorf, the train reaches the rich and fertile plain which 
 extends from this point to (^3071/ 2 M.) Cologne (see Baedeker’s 
 Rhine'). 
 
 48. From Paris to Brussels, 
 
 by Maubeuge and Mons. 
 
 194 M. By express in 6 1 J 2 , ordinary trains 11—13 hrs.; fares 35 fr. 
 80, 26 fr. 85, 18 fr. 15 c. •— Station.du Chemin de fer du Nord (p. 28). 
 
 As far as (143 M.) Maubeuge the line has been described in the 
 previous route. Feignies is the last French, and Quevy the first 
 Belgian station. 
 
 156 M. Mons (Hotels de la Couronne, du Cerf, de France), 
 Flem. Bergen, the capital of Hainault, with 27,800 inhab., owes 
 its origin to a fort erected here by Ciesar during his Gallic cam¬ 
 paign. The Emp. Joseph II. caused the fortifications to be de¬ 
 molished; in 1818 the town was re-fortified, but in 1861—62 
 the works were again levelled. The Cathedrale de Ste. Waudru 
 (St. Waltrudis), the finest building at Mons, was begun in 1460, 
 and completed in 1589. Near the church, to the 1., rises the Beffroi, 
 on the highest ground in the town, built in 1662. The Hotel de 
 
BRUSSELS. 
 
 48. Route. 297 
 
 Ville dates from the 15th cent., and the tower was added in 1718. 
 A large statue in bronze was erected here in 1853 to the memory 
 of Orlando di Lasso, or Roland de Lattre, the celebrated composer, 
 who was born at Mons in 1520. The coal-mines of Mons are 
 the most productive in Belgium. 
 
 From stat. Jurbise a branch-line diverges toTournai andCourtrai. 
 
 Soignies, a town with 6750 inhab., possesses an abbey church 
 of St. Vincent, erected in its present form by St. Bruno, Arch¬ 
 bishop of Cologne, in 965, probably the most ancient edifice in 
 Belgium. Some of the monuments in the burial-ground date from 
 the 13th and 14th centuries. 
 
 175 M. Braine-le-Comte , a small town of ancient origin, is 
 the junction for Namur. Carriages are sometimes changed here. 
 
 185 M. Hal (Hotel du Cygne; des 1'rois Fontaines ; de I'Uni- 
 vers), a small town on the Senne and the canal from Charleroi, is 
 a celebrated resort of pilgrims on account of the wonder-working 
 image of the Virgin in the Church of St. Mary, a pure Gothic 
 edifice. The *high-altar, executed in alabaster in 1583, and the 
 bronze font of 1446 merit inspection. 
 
 The line now traverses a hilly district, and for some distance 
 skirts the canal to Charleroi. Near Forest it crosses the Senne 
 and intersects a rich pastoral district; it then passes the Porte 
 de Hal, and enters the Station du Midi, which is 1 M. distant 
 from the Station du Nord. 
 
 194 M. Brussels. Hotels Bellevue, de Flandke, Mengelle, and de 
 l’Elbope, all well s'tuaied in the upper part of the town, good and expensive. 
 H6tels de SuftDK, dk l'Univers, de l'Empereur, de Saxe, and de Hol¬ 
 lands, situated in the lower part of the town, good, and not expensive. 
 — English Church Service at the Chapel Royal, Rue du Musee, at the 
 Chapel in the Boulevart de i’Observatoire, and at the Evangelical Chapel, 
 Rue Belliard. — Cab with one horse 1, with two horses l l \t fr. per drive. 
 
 Description of the town, and journey from Brussels to Lidge, 
 see Baedeker's Belgium and Holland, or Baedeker’s Rhine; thence 
 to Cologne see R. 47. 
 
 49. From Paris to Strasbourg, 
 
 by Ch&lons and Nancy. 
 
 314*|* M. By Express in 10*/ 4 — 11*J 4 lirs., by ordinary trains in 15 — 16*12 
 hrs.; express fares 59 fr. 75, 43 fr. 45 c.; ordinary fares 57 fr. 90 , 42 fr. 
 20, 30 fr. 25 c. — Station in the Place de Strasbourg; special omnibuses, 
 see p. 27. 
 
 Soon after quitting the station the train crosses the canal of 
 St. Denis and the high-road from Paris to Lille, and passes 
 Pantin (12,300 inhab.). At Noisy-le-Sec the Mulhouse line di¬ 
 verges to the r. (p. 304). Beyond Bondy is the forest of that name. 
 Le Rainey -Villemovble is a charming village surrounded with 
 orchards. At Chelles are the ruins of a once celebrated abbey. 
 
"298 Route 49. 
 
 EPERNAY. 
 
 From Paris 
 
 171/2 M. Lagny-Thorigny, where the line reaches the Marne, 
 and Dammart, an adjoining village send frnit to Paris valued at a 
 million francs annually. The valley of the Marne presents a 
 succession of picturesque landscapes. Near Chalifert the river 
 is crossed and a tunnel entered. The Canal de Chalifert also 
 penetrates the hill by means of another tunnel. 
 
 28 M. Meaux (Hotel Orignan; Trois Rois; Buffet at the station,), 
 an old town on the Marne with 11,200 inhab., was one of the first 
 places in France where the Reformation found adherents. The 
 celebrated Bossuet was bishop of Meaux from 1681 to 1704. The 
 handsome Gothic Cathedral, erected at various periods between 
 the 12th and 16th cent., stands on an eminence. The tower 
 commands a fine view. 
 
 Laferte-sous-Jouarre , prettily situated on the Marne, and 
 surrounded by numerous country-houses, deals largely in millstones. 
 On a neighbouring height stands the abbey of Jouarre. Scenery 
 very pleasing. 
 
 59!/ 2 M. Ch&teau-Thierry (Hotel d’Angleterre), a pretty place 
 on the Marne, has an early Gothic church dedicated to St. Crispin, 
 and a ruined castle which is said to have been erected by Charles 
 Martel. La Fontaine, the fabulist, was born here, and a monu¬ 
 ment has been erected to his memory. The Russians suffered severe 
 losses in the vicinity, in Feb., 1814. 
 
 The Champagne district is now entered. At Varennes 
 Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were recognised and arrested 
 in 1791. At Dormans there is a fine chateau and an interesting 
 Gothic church. Between Port-h-Binson and Damery, on a wooded 
 height to the right, rises the Chateau de Boursault, a hand¬ 
 some Renaissance building erected by Madame Cliquot, a name 
 familiar to the bon-vivant, and now the property of her son-in- 
 law M. de Mortemart. 
 
 The Marne winds through a broad and fertile valley, enclosed 
 by the vine-clad hills which yield the wine from which sparkling 
 champagne is manufactured. 
 
 89 M. Epernay (Hotel de VEurope; Sir'ene; Buffet), a town 
 with 12,930 inhab., one of the centres of the champagne traffic, is 
 picturesquely situated in the midst of the most productive vineyards. 
 The spacious cellars hewn in the chalk-rock are admirably suited 
 for storing the wine, and contain millions of bottles. The quarter 
 inhabited by the wealthy wine-merchants is named the Faubourg 
 •de la Folie, perhaps in allusion to the extravagant consumption by 
 an undiscriminating public of what is often a very poor and un¬ 
 wholesome beverage. 
 
 Epernay is an important junction, being the point of intersection 
 of branch-lines to Nogent-sur-Seine and to Rheims. 
 
 Beyond Epernay the country becomes flat and uninteresting. 
 
to Strasbourg. 
 
 chAlons. 
 
 49. Route. 299 
 
 108 M. Ch&lons-sur-Marne (Cloche d'Or; Hotel de la Mire- 
 Dieu), the capital of the Department of the Marne, with 16,453 
 inhab., is one of the principal depots of champagne. 
 
 The Cathedral, dating from the 12th cent., has been frequently 
 restored. The open towers terminate in elegant spires. — Notre 
 Dame, on the other side of the town, a fine example of the transition 
 style, with heavy, but handsome towers, dates from 1157. — 
 Pleasant promenades on the site of the old ramparts. 
 
 In 471, in the territory of the Catalauni near Chalons-sur-Marne 
 the united Roman, Visigothic, and Frankish armies defeated the 
 Huns in a cebrated battle. 
 
 From Chalons to Rheims , 57 M., by rail, in 1 3 |, hr. The line passes 
 Le ifourmelon, where there is a camp for the annual autumn manoeuvres 
 of the French army. 
 
 From Ch&lons to Afetz, by Verdun, see p. 303. 
 
 The train now traverses a vast plain, occupied by a very poor 
 population, contemptuously called ‘La Champagne Pouilleuse'. 
 To the 1. winds the Marne through pleasant meadows interspersed 
 with plantations. 
 
 128 M. Vitry-le-Francois (Cloche d’Or), with 7170 inhab., and 
 a handsome Renaissance church, is surrounded by vineyards and 
 fruit-trees. The town was destroyed by the Emp. Charles V., but 
 rebuilt by Francis 1. The train now crosses the Marne for the last 
 time, and follows the course of the Rhine-Marne Canal. 
 
 136 M. Blesme (Buffet at the station). A branch-line diverges 
 here towards the S. to Chaumont (p. 306). 
 
 The next station worthy of mention is — 
 
 159 M. Bar-le-Duc (Hotel de Metz et du Commerce; Fatalot; 
 Buffet), surnamed ‘ La Coquette' , a picturesque town on the Ornain, 
 the capital of the Department of the Meuse (pop. 15,175). The 
 church of St. Pierre in the Haute Ville contains a curious monu¬ 
 ment in marble to Due Re'ntf de Chalons, Prince of Orange, who 
 fell in 1544 at the siege of St. Dizier. A handsome house of the 
 16th cent, in the Place here contains a Museum. The busy Ville 
 Basse contains monuments of marshals Oudinot (d. 1847) and Ex- 
 eelmans (d. 1852), both natives of Bar-le-Duc. 
 
 After traversing a somewhat monotonous district, the train 
 passes by means of cuttings through the watershed between the 
 Seine and the Meuse. 
 
 1841 /.> M. Commercy (Hotel de Paris), with 4200 inhab., pos¬ 
 sesses a large chateau on the bank of the Meuse, where Cardinal 
 de Retz (d. 1679) wrote his memoirs. It was subsequently occu¬ 
 pied by Stanislaus Lesczinski, ex-king of Poland , in 1744, and is 
 now used as a barrack. 
 
 The next station worthy of mention is — 
 
 19272 M. Pagny-sur-Meuse , where another line to Chaumont 
 diverges via Neufchdteau. 
 
300 Route 49. 
 
 NANCY. 
 
 From Paris 
 
 200 M. Toul (Hotel de la Cloche ), the Tullum Leucorum of the 
 Romans, a fortress on the Moselle , a little to the r. of the line, 
 has for 1200 years been the seat of a bishop, and is one of the 
 most ancient towns in Lorraine (6950 inhab.). On 24th Sept., 1870, 
 the town was taken by the Prussians after a siege of twelve days. 
 
 The Gothic * Cathedral , dating from 10th and 15th cent., has 
 an admirable facade with a beautiful portal and two towers. The 
 stone pulpit dates from the 12th cent. The abbey church of St. 
 Gengoult, a fine Gothic building of the 13th cent., with facade of 
 the 15th, has interesting Gothic cloisters of the 16th cent. 
 
 The Rhine-Marne Canal and Moselle here flow side by side 
 and are crossed at Fontenoy , beyond which one of the most 
 picturesque and interesting points of the whole line is reached. 
 The valley of the Moselle contracts, the banks become more pre¬ 
 cipitous, and vineyards begin to appear on the sunny heights. 
 
 2111/ 2 M. Liverdun is picturesquely situated on a height. 
 For some dis’ance the railway, high-road, river, and canal are 
 parallel to each other. The canal penetrates the hill, on which 
 Liverdun lies, by means of a tunnel. 
 
 Near Frouard the Meurthe unites with the Moselle. The line 
 to Metz diverges herefp. 303). From Champigneulles a line to the 
 1. diverges to Chateau-Salins. 
 
 2201/2 M. Nancy. Hotels du Commerce and de l’Europe, Rue 
 des Carmes 4 and 5; de France, Rue de la Poissonnerie; de Paris, Rue 
 de St. Dizier; d’Angletekre and de JIetz in the Faubourg Stanislas, near 
 the station. — Several cafes in the Place Stanislas. 
 
 Nancy, the capital of the Department of the Meurtlie, and 
 situated on that river, with 55,000 inhab., was formerly the capital 
 of Lorraine and seat of the dukes, of whom Stanislaus Lesczinski 
 (d. 1766), ex-king of Poland, was the last. The town was 
 greatly embellished by his predecessor Leopold (d. 1729), and is 
 one of the best-built towns in France. The surrounding vineyards 
 contribute much to the beauty of the situation. The Academy 
 of Nancy has risen in importance since the annexation of Stras¬ 
 bourg, and its Ecole Foresti'ere, or nursery for forest-trees, is the 
 only establishment of the kind in France. 
 
 The town is entered by the Porte Stanislas, one of the seven 
 handsome gates of Nancy, leading to the Place Dombasle, where 
 a statue of the eminent agriculturist of that name (d. 1843), 
 by David, stands in front of the Lyce'e. The first street di¬ 
 verging from the Rue Stanislas to the 1. leads to the Cours Leo¬ 
 pold, with a *Statue of Marshal Drouot, a native of Nancy, in bronze, 
 by David. 
 
 Th e * Place Stanislas , the finest point in the town, is adorned 
 with the Statue of Stanislaus (d. 1766), erected by the three de- 
 parments (Meurthe, Meuse, Vosges) which formerly constituted the 
 Duchy of Lorraine. The statue looks towards the Triumphal Arch 
 
to Strasbourg. 
 
 NANCY. 
 
 49. Route. 301 
 
 which Stanislaus erected in honour of Louis XV. The Place is 
 surrounded by the Hotel de Ville, the theatre, the Evechtf, and two 
 private houses, all handsome edifices. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville contains a small Picture Gallery, with several 
 valuable works by French, Italian, and Flemish masters. At the 
 back of the Hotel de Ville is the Prefecture, in the Rue d’Alliance, 
 so called from the French and Austrian alliance concluded here in 
 1756 against Prussia. 
 
 Passing through the Triumphal Arch, to the 1., we reach the 
 handsome Place Carriere, on the farther side of which is the former 
 palace of Stanislaus, afterwards the residence of the commandant 
 of the town. The adjoining buildings contain the courts of law. 
 
 The Eglise des Cordeliers, at the back of the palace, contains, 
 on thel., the tomb of the painter Jacques Callot (d. 1635), a 
 native of Nancy, and the richly decorated *Chapelle Ronde, the 
 burial-place of the Dukes of Lorraine, with a number of interesting 
 monuments from the 12th to the 18th cent. 
 
 The adjacent Palais Ducal, which formerly contained the Musee 
 Lorrain, was burned down in duly, 1871; but some tapestry which 
 once belonged to Charles the Bold, a few pictures and antiquities 
 were saved. 
 
 In the new town, to the r. of the Place Stanislas (when ap¬ 
 proached from the station) rises the Cathedral, in the Jesuit style, 
 completed in 1742. 
 
 The Pepiniere, with its extensive grounds with fine avenues, is 
 entered from the Place Stanislas and the Place Carriere. Military 
 music at 4 p. m. in summer. 
 
 In the suburb of St. Pierre is the Eglise de Bon Secours, 
 where Stanislaus (d. 1766) and his wife are interred. After his 
 abdication as king of Poland (1735), he continued to be reigning 
 duke of Lorraine and Bar until his death, when the duchy fell 
 to the crown of France. 
 
 The railway-station of Nancy occupies the site of the marsh 
 where the body of Charles the Bold was found after the battle of 
 Nancy. The Croix de Bourgogne, which is probably a successor to 
 the one originally erected here by the victorious Duke Rtfnd(d. 1508), 
 bears the following inscription : 
 
 En l’an de l’incarnation Et en bataille ici transcy 
 
 Mil quatre cent septante six Ou croix fut mise pour memoire 
 
 Veille de F Apparition Rdne Due de Loraine me(r)oy 
 
 Fut le Due de Bourgogne occis Rendant a Dieu pour la vietoire. 
 
 From Nancy to Strassburo. Quitting Nancy, the train crosses 
 the Meurthe and the Rhine-Marne Canal. Varangeville and St. 
 Nicolas are two small towns connected by abridge over the Meurthe. 
 The church of the former dates from the 15th cent., that of the 
 latter from 1494—1544. Theold salt-works of Rosieres-aux-Salines 
 are now occupied by a very important horse-breeding establishment. 
 Blainville-la-Grande is the junction forEpinal and Vesoul(p. 307). 
 
302 Route 49. 
 
 STRASBOURG. 
 
 261 M. Luneville, a town with 12,370 inhab., at the confluence 
 of the Meurtlie and Vezouze, was the birthplace of Francis I. of 
 Austria, son of Leopold Duke of Lorraine, and founder of the 
 present imperial house. In a house in the Rue d’Allemagne the 
 peace of Lundville, between France and Austria, was signed 
 on 9th Feb., 1801. Branch-line hence to St. Die, a small manu¬ 
 facturing town, 31 M. to the S.E. 
 
 Stations Marainvillers and Embermenil , the last in France. 
 
 276 M. Avricourt, the first German station, is situated near the 
 new frontier of 1871. It should be observed that the German clock 
 is 22 min. in advance of the French. Branch-lines hence to Dieuze 
 and to Cirey-sur- Vezouze. 
 
 285 M. Sarrebourg (*Hotel du Sauvage), the Pons Saravi of 
 Antoninus, on the Sarre , which becomes navigable here, is not 
 to be confounded with Saarburg near Treves. The place was regar¬ 
 ded as an important military point by the French down to the war 
 of 1870, and -was provided with extensive provision magazines. 
 German is the language chiefly spoken in the lower part of the town. 
 
 The train now quits the rich plains of Lorraine, penetrates a 
 spur of the Vosges Mts. by the tunnel of Archwiller , 1 !/ 2 M. in 
 length, through which the Rhine-Marne Canal also passes, and 
 enters the valley of the Zorn. Opposite Lutzelboury , the last 
 station in Lorraine, rises a picturesque ruined fortress. Tunnels, 
 bridges, and cuttings follow each other in rapid succession. To the 
 r. are the two old castles of Geroldseck ; then, on the top of a hill, 
 that of Hoh-Barr. On a wooded height to the r. farther on, are the 
 ruins of Greifenstein. The train now quits the Vosges Mts. and 
 enters the province of Alsace. 
 
 301 M. Saverne (*Soleil) , Ger. Zabern, the Roman Taberncie , 
 with 5500 inhab., possesses a handsome Palace, erected in 1666 
 by a bishop of Strasbourg, and was afterwards occupied by the well 
 known Cardinal de Rohan (d. 1802). 
 
 314Y2 M. Strasbourg. Hotels: *Ville de Paris (PI. a), R. from 
 3, B. 2,',L. 1, A. 1 fr.; *Maison Rouge (PI. c); Europe, Rue du Nuage 
 bleu (Blauwolkengasse); Hotel d’Angleterre (PI. b), opposite the station; 
 Vignette (P). d), Grand Rue 119; Hotel de France (PI. e), Place St. 
 Pierre; Ville de Vienne, near the station. — Cabs 75 cent, per drive; 
 'll hr. 80 c., '|* hr. 1 fr. 20 c., 1 hr. 2 fr.; luggage 20 c. 
 
 See Baedeker's Rhine. 
 
 50. From Paris to Metz. 
 
 a. By Chalons and Verdun. 
 
 219 M. Railway in 11—13 hrs. \ fares 42 fr. 35c., 31 fr. 60c., 23 fr. — 
 Trains start from the Gare de Strasbourg. 
 
 There are several different routes to Metz. The quickest trains take 
 the route by Bar-le-Due and Frouard (p. 303)} another route is by 
 Rheims, Sedan, where the celebrated battle of 2nd Sept. 1870 was fought, 
 and Thionvilte} but the present route is the most direct and the cheapest. 
 
VERDUN. 
 
 50. Route. 303 
 
 From Paris to Chalons-sur-Marne (108 M.) see p. 299. The line 
 to Metz diverges here to the 1. — 115 M. Stat. La Veuve. — 120M. 
 St. Hilaire au Temple is the junction for Rheims (by railway in 
 11/ 4 hr.j. — 148 M. Ste. Menehould (Hotel de Metz) 011 the Aisne, 
 with 4250 inhab., has a church with double aisles of the 13th and 
 14th centuries. A picturesque district is now traversed. The next 
 important place is — 
 
 17672 M. Verdun/'Hotel de VEurope ; Buffet ), the ancient Vero- 
 dunum , a fortified town with 10,750 inhab. , situated on the: 
 Meuse. The town was bombarded by the Prussians in 1792, and 
 having surrendered after a few hours, the inhabitants accorded an 
 amicable reception to the conquerors, to whom a party of young 
 girls made an offering of the bonbons for which Verdun is noted. 
 The revolutionists recovered the town after the battle of Valmy and 
 revenged themselves by massacring a number of these innocent 
 maidens. The town was again bombarded by the Germans in 1870. 
 
 The Cathedral dates from the 12th cent. , but has been much 
 altered. The other objects of interest are the garden of the 
 Episcopal palace , the Porte Chaussee with its crenelated towers, the 
 Barracks with which portions of an abbey of the 13th and 14th 
 cent, have been incorporated , and the beautiful Promenades de la 
 Roche. 
 
 Etain is prettily situated on the Orne. Batilly is the last 
 French station. The train then crosses the battle-field of Gravelotte. 
 
 219 M. Metz, see below. 
 
 6 . By Frouard and Fagny. 
 
 245 M. Express in 8 U 2 , ordinary trains in 10'k—13 l |a firs.: fares 47 fr. 
 85, 55 fr. 60, 25 fr. 15 c. 
 
 From Paris to Frouard (21572 M.), see II. 49. 
 
 At Frouard the carriages for Metz are detached from the train 
 to Nancy and Strasbourg, cross the canal and the Moselle near the 
 station, and follow the pleasant valley of the latter, which here 
 becomes navigable and is enclosed between gently sloping banks. 
 
 227 M. Pont-k-Mousson (Hotel de France), a town with 8210 
 inhab., with the ruined fortress Mousson (fine view) on an 
 eminence, its church (St. Martin) with two towers, and its bridge 
 over the Moselle, presents a pleasing picture. 
 
 23272 M. Pagny -sur- Moselle has been the French frontier 
 station since 1871 (douane). On an eminence to the 1. are the 
 ruins of the chateau of Preny, once the property of the Dukes 
 of Lorraine. Excellent wine is produced here. 
 
 At Noveant, the German frontier station (custom-house), a 
 suspension-bridge crosses the Moselle. On the r. bank of the 
 river are perceived at intervals the extensive remains of a Roman 
 *Aqueduct, constructed by Drusus. It was 60 ft. in height and 
 1220 yds. in length, and conducted water from the hills of the r. 
 
304 Route 50. 
 
 METZ. 
 
 bank to Divodurum, the modern Metz. At Jouy-aux-Arches eleven 
 arches are still well preserved, and at Ars (or rather Arches-sur- 
 Moselle), seven others rise close to the railway. The bridge by 
 which the train crosses the Moselle affords a good final survey of 
 this imposing Roman structure. 
 
 The train then reaches Metz, which lies so buried amidst its 
 green ramparts, that little of the town is perceived from the 
 railway. 
 
 Metz. Hotels. Hotel df/ Metz (PI. a), Rue des Clercs; Hotel de 
 l’Europf. (PI. b), in the same street; charges at both, R. 3—5, D. 4, ddj. 
 3'le, L. and A. 2 fr. ; * Hot hi. df. Paris (PI. c), adjoining the Terrace, of 
 the second class. Hotel du Nord (PI. d); Hotel du Commerce (PI. e). 
 — Cafes du Grand Balcon , and du Heaume, both in the Esplanade. 
 
 Metz, on the Moselle, with 51,107 inhab., once the capital of 
 the kingdom of Austrasia, afterwards a town of the German 
 Empire, ceded to France in 1556 with Toul and Verdun, and 
 afterwards one of the most important military stations in France, 
 was again annexed to the German Empire after the war of 
 1870—71. It is one of the strongest fortresses in Europe, and 
 never succumbed to an enemy until it surrendered to the Prussians 
 on 27th Oct., 1870. The river flows through the town in several 
 branches, thus forming a number of islands. 
 
 The most important edifice is the fine Gothic * Cathedral 
 which was begun in the 13th cent. The nave was completed in 
 1392, and the choir was added in the 15th and 16th cent. The 
 unsuitable portal was erected in the 18th cent. The building was 
 restored in 1830—35. The tower, 387 ft. in height, commands a 
 fine view of the fertile '■Pays Messin , the town, and the river. 
 
 In the Place Napoldon, to the W. of the cathedral, rises the 
 Statue of Marshal Fabert (d. 1662), a contemporary of Turenne. 
 
 The S.W. side of the town is bounded by the Esplanade, with 
 beautiful walks, large barracks, and the Palais de Justice, of the 
 18th century. A bronze monument was erected here in 1851 to 
 Marshall Ney (born at Metz, shot at Paris in 1815). 
 
 For a fuller description of the town , the battle-fields, and the 
 railway-lines to Mannheim, Bingen, Treves, and Luxembourg , see 
 Baedeker's Rhine. 
 
 51. From Paris to Bale, 
 
 by Troyes, Belfort, and Mulhouse. 
 
 328 31. Railway in 12—18 hrs.; fares 63 fr. 5 c., 46 fr. 25 c.; no third 
 class through tickets. The station is on the 1., adjoining the Station de 
 Strasbourg (p. 27). 
 
 From Paris to Noisy-le-Sec, see p. 297. The Strasbourg line 
 diverges here to the 1. At Nogent-sur-Marne (p. 171) the Marne 
 is crossed. On the r. is the park of Vincennes. The line 
 
TROYES. 
 
 51. Route 305 
 
 enters the fertile, but monotonous plain of Brie. To the r. lies 
 the village of Champigny , where important battles were fought on 
 30th Nov. and 2nd Dec. 1870. From stat. Gretz-Armainvillers a 
 branch-line diverges to Coulommiers. Nangis, with 2000 inhab., 
 a busy little town, possesses an ancient castle and an interesting 
 church of the 14th cent. From Longueville a branch-line di¬ 
 verges to the ancient town of Proving. 
 
 At Chalmaison the line quits the plain of Brie, and enters 
 the valley of the Seine. From stat. Flamboin a branch-line runs 
 to Montereau (p. 308). 
 
 69 */2 M. Nogent-sur-Seine ( Cafe d'Argent), where the line 
 crosses the Seine, 4*/2 M. from the abbey of Paraclet , now a farm, 
 where the remains of Abelard and Heloise, now in the cemetery of 
 Pere Lachaise at Paris, reposed for nearly seven centuries. The 
 empty vault still exists. 
 
 The country continues flat. From Romilly, a manufacturing 
 town with 5000 inhab., a branch-line diverges to Epernay (p. 298). 
 
 IO 4 Y 2 M. Troyes (Hotelsdu Commerce, de St. Laurent, des Cour- 
 riers, du Mulct; Rail. Restaurant) on the Seine, a busy and 
 pleasant town with 38,000 inhab. , is the capital of the Depart¬ 
 ment of the Aube. The treaty by which Henry Y. of England was 
 recognised as regent of France was signed here in 1420. ‘Troy- 
 weight’ derives its name from this town. 
 
 The *Hotel de Ville in the street of that name, a Renaissance 
 building, contains busts of the celebrities of Troyes in a handsome 
 hall on the ground-floor. On the r., farther on, rises the beautiful 
 Gothic church of *St. Urbain, founded by Urban IV. in 1263, but 
 never completed. 
 
 The cathedral of *St. Pierre was begun in 1208 , but not com¬ 
 pleted till 1492, and recently restored. The interior, with its 
 double aisles, is rich and elegant. Beautiful stained glass of the 
 13th cent. Curious old enamels in the treasury. 
 
 The Museum, in an old abbey to the N. of the cathedral, con¬ 
 tains pictures, sculptures, an archaeological, a numismatic, and 
 other collections, and a library of 100,000 vols. and 2000 MSS. 
 
 A little to theN. ofSt. Urbain, inaparallel street, is the church 
 of St. Remi, and beyond it, nearer the station, Ste. Madeleine , of 
 the 12th cent., altered in the 16th, containing a sumptuous Gothic, 
 jube of the 16th cent. A little to theS. of St. Remi is St. Pnntaleon, 
 in the Renaissance style, but possessing a fine Gothic S. portal. 
 Among the interesting old houses of Troyes may he mentioned the 
 Hotel de Vauluisant , of the 18th cent., and that of Mauroy, a few 
 paces to the E. of the last. 
 
 Branch-lines run from Troyes to Chdlillon-sur-Seine , to Sens 
 and to Chalons-sur-Marne. 
 
 Leaving Troyes, the train skirts the bank of the Seine, and 
 then quits it at Rouilly. At Jessains the picturesque valley of 
 
 B*deker. Paris. 4th Edition. 20 
 
306 Route 51. 
 
 LANGRES. 
 
 From Paris 
 
 the Aube is entered. The district between Troyes and Arcis, 
 and as far as Langres, was the scene of the last desperate struggle 
 of Napoleon against Schwarzenberg and Bliicher in 1814. 
 
 The train descends the pleasant valley of the Aube, and crosses 
 the stream near Arsonval-J'aucourt ; fine view from the station. 
 
 137(A) M. Bar-sur-Aube (Paste), an ancient town with 4500 
 inhab., possesses two churches, those of St. Maclou and St. Pierre, 
 dating from the 12th and 14th cent., and a bridge with a chapel of 
 the 15th cent. 
 
 At Clairvaux the celebrated Cistercian abbey of Clara Vallis 
 was founded by St. Bernard in 1115, but the present abbey build¬ 
 ings, now a prison, are modern. Picturesque scenery here. 
 
 The valley of the Aujon is entered near Maranville. From 
 Bricon a branch-line diverges to Chatillon-sur-Seine. Beyond 
 Villiers-le-Sec a huge viaduct of 50 arches, 160 ft. in height, 
 crosses the valley of the Suize to 
 
 164 M. Chaumont (Ecu de France; Buffet), the capital of the 
 Department of the TIaute Marne, with 8600 inhab., situated on a 
 barren hill between the Suize and the Marne. The church of 
 St. Jean Bapstiste of the 13th, with choir of the 16th cent., 
 contains a sculpture of 1460 representing the Holy Sepulchre. La 
 Tour Hautefeuille, near the Palais de Justice, is the fragment of an 
 ancient castle of the Counts of Champagne. Branch-lines hence to 
 Blesme and to Pagny-sur Meuse (p. 299). 
 
 The line now descends to the picturesque valley of the Marne. 
 
 185 ! /-2 M. Langres (Hotel de l'Europe ; Poste) is a fortified 
 town and episcopal residence with 9632 inhab. , situated on a 
 lofty plateau (1550 ft.), near the Marne. Cutlery is largely manu¬ 
 factured here. Diderot (d. 1784) was a native of Langres. 
 
 The cathedral of *St. Mam'es, in the transitional style, dates from 
 the 12th and 13th centuries. The tower commands a line view. To 
 the r. of the cathedral are interesting early Gothic cloisters. — 
 A street nearly opposite the church leads to the interesting *Porte 
 Gallo-Romaine, which is probably of late Roman construction. 
 The Porte des Moulins, to the S., is of the 18th cent. 
 
 The church of St. Martin, of the 13th cent., with a tower of the 
 18th, contains a Christ artistically carved in wood, of the 16th cent. 
 The Museum contains antiquities and a few pictures. 
 
 From Chulindrey (192 M.) a line diverges to Gray and Auxonne 
 (p. 310). The train then enters the valley of the Amance, which 
 it follows down to the Saone. From Laferte-sur-Amance an om¬ 
 nibus runs to (10 M.) the celebrated baths of Bourbonne-les-Bains. 
 
 The line soon crosses the Saone and ascends on its 1. bank. At 
 Port d'Atelier a line diverges to Epinal and Nancy. At Port-sur- 
 Saone the train quits the valley of the Saone, and traverses wooded 
 and vine-clad heights. 
 
to Bole. 
 
 BELFORT. 
 
 52. Route 307 
 
 ‘238 M. Vesoul (Hotel de VEturope; Buffet), with 7720 inliab., 
 the capital of the Department Haute-Saone, is prettily situated in 
 the valley of the Burgeon. Branch-lines run hence to Besangon and 
 to Dijon. 
 
 Several unimportant stations; then — 
 
 277 M. Belfort (Ancienne Poste; Buffet), on the Savoureuse, 
 a strongly fortified town with 8000 inliab., which commands the 
 Trouee de Belfort , or passage between the Vosges and JuraMts. In this 
 neighbourhood, near Ilericourt on the Lisaine, engagements took 
 place in Jan. 1871 between Gen. Werder’s army and the French 
 under Bourbaki, which compelled the French army of 80,000 men 
 to cross the Swiss frontier near Pontarlier (p. 310). The fortress 
 lias successfully resisted many sieges, the last of which was in 
 1870—71, when the Germans did not obtain possession of it until 
 after the peace was concluded. — Branch-line to Dole (p. 310), via 
 Monlbelliard and Besan^on. 
 
 Montreux-Vieux. Ger. Altmunsterol, is the last French station 
 (douane for travellers in the reverse direction). The Vosges Mts. 
 are now left behind. Two long viaducts soon carry the train to 
 Dannemarie , or Dammerkirch , beyond which another viaduct 
 crosses the Ill to Altkircli , a small, prettily situated town. 
 
 308 M. Miilhausen, Fr. Mulliouse (Hotels Romann, Wagner, 
 de la Paix; Buffet), a manufacturing town with 35,000 inliab., 
 once a free town of the Germanic Empire, belonged to Switzer¬ 
 land from 1515 to 1798, then to France down to 1871, and now 
 again to Germany. It lies on the III and the Rhine-Rhone Canal. 
 The handsome building of the Soeiele Commerciale contains nat¬ 
 ural history and industrial collections. 
 
 The line to Bale now traverses the broad plain of the Rhine; 
 to the r. rise vine-clad hills; to the 1. in the distance are the 
 mountains of the Black Forest. St. Louis is the last German 
 station (douane for travellers leaving Switzerland). To the 1. on 
 the Rhine is situated the former fortress of Hiiningen, constructed 
 by Vauban in 1679, dismantled by the Austrians in 1815. 
 
 328 M. B&.1 e (Trois Rois, Couronne, and Tete, on the Rhine; 
 Schweizerhof at the central station; Sauvage; Cicogne, etc.), 
 see Baedeker's Switzerland, or Baedeker's Rhine. 
 
 52 . From Paris to Neuchatel by Dijon. 
 
 317 31. Railway in 13 1 ', — 14 lirs.; fares 61 fr. 45, 44 fr. 15, 33 fr. 80c. 
 — Station in the Boulevard 31azas, see p. '27. 
 
 Journey to Fontainebleau, see p. 267. Tliomery is celebrated 
 for its luscious grapes, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, the sale 
 of which yields about half a million fr. annually. Morel, pictu¬ 
 resquely situated on the Loiny, which here falls into the Seine, 
 has a Gothic church of the 12—15th cent, and a ruined chateau 
 
 20* 
 
308 Route 52. 
 
 SENS. 
 
 From Paris 
 
 once occupied by Sully. To the r. runs the railway to Montargis, 
 Nevers, Moulins, and Vichy. The line crosses the valley of the 
 Loing by a viaduct of thirty arches. 
 
 49 t /2 M. Montereau (Grand Monarque ; Buffet ), with 6750 
 inhab., is picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Seine 
 and Yonne. In 1814, Napoleon gained his last victory over the 
 Allies and the Prince of Wiirtemberg in this neighbourhood. 
 Church of the 14th and 15th cent. On a hill rises the castle of 
 Sunnite. Branch-line to Flamboin (p. 305), to the 1. 
 
 The train ascends the broad and well cultivated valley of the 
 Yonne. Near Champigny two battles were fought in 1870. 
 
 72V 2 M. Sens (Ecu de Paris), the ancient capital of the Se- 
 nones , who under the leadership of Brennus plundered Rome in 
 B.C. 390, is now a quiet town with 11,900 inhab. The early 
 Gothic *Cathedral (St. Etienne) dating chiefly from the 13th cent, 
 is an imposing edifice, although somewhat unsymmetrical and de¬ 
 stitute of ornament. The stained glass of the 16th cent, and the 
 *Mausoleum of the Dauphin, the father of Louis XVI., and his 
 wife, by Coustou, are the chief objects of interest in the interior. 
 The treasury contains many valuables. — The Officialite , to the r. 
 of the cathedral, a building of the 13th cent., lately restored, 
 contains a superb vaulted hall with modern paintings. — The 
 adjoining Archeveche dates from the 16th cent. 
 
 The small town of Villeneuve-sur- Yonne contains two Gothic 
 gateways and a cathedral of the 13th—16th cent. 
 
 89</3 M. Joigny (Dues de Bourgogne) , the Joviniacum of the 
 Romans, a town with 6240 inhab., on the Yonne, is situated in 
 a wine-growing district. The church of St. Jean dates from the 
 14th and 15th cent. — Timber is sent down in large quantities 
 from this district to Paris in the form of rafts. 
 
 Laroche is situated at the confluence of the Yonne and Armangon , 
 and on the Canal de Bourgogne. Branch-line hence to Auxerre. 
 
 St. Florentin has a handsome unfinished church of the 12th — 
 16tli cent. About 6 M. distant is the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 
 where Thomas & Becket passed two years of his exile. Langton, 
 archbishop of Canterbury, banished by king John, and other 
 English prelates have also sought a retreat within its walls. 
 
 122 M. Tonnerre (Lion d'Or, Buffet ), a town with 5500 inhab., 
 on the Arman^on. The church of St. Pierre , standing on the pre¬ 
 cipitous rocks above the town, is built in the 12th—16th cent., 
 and commands a pleasing prospect. — Chablis, 8 y 2 M. to the 
 S.W., is noted for its white wines. 
 
 Tanlay possesses a fine chateau in the Renaissance style, founded 
 by the brother of Admiral Coligny. At Ancy le Franc there is 
 a very handsome Chateau, erected in the 16th cent, from designs by 
 Primaticcio. At Nuits - sous - Ravieres a branch-line diverges to 
 Chdtillon-sur-Seine. Montbard , the birth-place of Buffon (1707 
 
to Neuchdtel. 
 
 DIJON. 
 
 52. Route. 309 
 
 — 1788), contains liis chateau and a monument to his memory. 
 Near Les Laumes is Alise Ste. Reine , with mineral springs , the 
 Alesia of Caesar. 
 
 Beyond Blaisy-Bas the line penetrates the watershed (1326 ft.) 
 between the Seine and the Rhone by a tunnel 2 l / 2 M. long. Be¬ 
 tween this point and Dijon is a succession of viaducts, cuttings ami 
 tunnels. Beyond stat. Malain , with its ruined chateau, the line 
 enters the picturesque valley of the Ouclie , bounded on the r. by 
 the slopes of the Cote d’Or. Near Velars rises the Mont Affrique 
 (1920 ft.), with the famous pilgrimage-chapel of Notre Dame 
 de l’Etang. 
 
 197 M. Dijon (Hotels ile la Cloche, de Bouryoyne, du Jura ; 
 Buffet), the ancient Divio , once the capital of Burgundy, now that 
 of tire Department of the Cote d’Or, with 39,000 inhab., is situated 
 at tire confluence of the Ouclie and the Souzon. The dukes of Bur¬ 
 gundy resided here down to the deatli of Charles the Bold in 1477. 
 The buildings of that period enhance the interest of the place. 
 
 The Rue Guillaume leads from the station to the Hotel de Ville , 
 once the ducal palace, but remodelled in the 17th and 18th cent. 
 The two towers and the Salle des Gardes are almost the only an¬ 
 cient parts. The Museum, containing valuable collections of pictures, 
 antiquities, engravings, etc., is open to the public on Sundays, 
 12—4, on Thursdays, 12 — 2, and daily to strangers on payment 
 of a fee. 
 
 * Notre Davie, to the N. of the Hotel de Ville, is a Gothic church 
 of the 13th cent., of very picturesque exterior. The principal por¬ 
 tal is a beautiful Gothic composition. The interior is also inter¬ 
 esting. One of the chapels of the transept contains a black image 
 of the Virgin dating from the 11th or 12th cent. 
 
 St. Beniyne, the cathedral, to the S. of the Porte Guillaume, an 
 interesting building, was erected in 1271 — 88. The plan resembles 
 that of Byzantine churches. The two towers in front are covered 
 with conical roofs, and a wooden spire, 300 ft. in height, rises over 
 the transept. 
 
 In the vicinity are St. Philibert, of the 12th cent., now a maga¬ 
 zine, and St. Jean, of the loth cent., disfigured with bad paintings. 
 
 The Castle, erected by Louis XI. in 1478 — 1512, and afterwards 
 used as a state prison, now in a dilapidated condition , is situated 
 to the N. of the Porte Guillaume. On the way to it we pass the 
 modern Statue of St. Bernard (d. 1153), who was born at Fontaine, 
 a village near Dijon. 
 
 Dijon is the centre of the wine-traffic of Upper Burgundy; 
 the growths of Gevroy, including Chambertin, and of Vougeot, 
 Nuits, and Beaune are the most celebrated. 
 
 The line now runs between the Ouche and the Canal de 
 Bouryoyne , which connects the Saone witli the Seine. Near the 
 small town of Auxonne (Grand Cerf ; Buffet), which possesses a 
 
31 0 Route 52. 
 
 DOLE. 
 
 Renaissance castle and a church of the 14th—16th cent., the branch 
 line to Gray diverges to the 1. The line crosses the Saone, and 
 beyond Champvans passes through a tunnel and long cutting. 
 
 221 y 2 M. Dole ( Villc de Lyon; Ville de Geneve; Buffet ), a 
 town with 11,000 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the Doubs 
 and the Rhone-Rhine-Canal. The esplanade of St. Maurice com¬ 
 mands a line view of the Jura Mts. and Mont Blanc in the extreme 
 distance to the r. — Branch-linefromDole to the S. W. to Chdlons- 
 sur-Saone ; to the N. E. to Besancon. 
 
 The train crosses the canal and the river and enters the valley of 
 the Loue. At Mouchard the Besancon line diverges to the 1. A 
 little farther, a branch-line diverges to (5 M.) Satins (Hotel des 
 Messageries), a small town with much frequented saline baths. 
 
 The line now enters the Jura. Numerous viaducts and tunnels. 
 Arbois , a pleasant little town on the Cuisance , was the birthplace 
 (1761) of Piohegru. Beyond Pont d'Uery a branch-line diverges 
 to the r. to Champagnole. The next important place is — 
 
 285 M. Pontarlier (Hotel National; Buffet), a town with 5000 
 inhab., on the Doubs. Travellers entering France undergo the 
 formalities of the custom-house here. 
 
 The line follows the 1. bank of the Doubs and crosses the 
 river near the fortified detile of La Cluse. To the 1., on a rock 
 650 ft. in height, is situated the Fort de Joux, where Mirabeau, 
 Toussaint-Louverture, etc. were once confined. To the r., on a 
 still loftier rock, rises a new fort. Les Verri'eres Francoises, or 
 de Joux is the last French, and Les Verri'eres Suisses the first 
 Swiss station. On 1st Feb., 1871, the French army under Bour- 
 baki, consisting of 84,000 men and 10,000 horses, crossed the 
 Swiss frontier in this neighbourhood (comp. p. 307). 
 
 Beyond Les Verrieres the line reaches its culminating point 
 (2930 ft.). The scenery again becomes very picturesque. To the 
 r. in the valley lies the prettily situated town of Fleurier , with its 
 important watch-manufactories. Beyond Bovercsse , on the oppo¬ 
 site bank of the Reuse, lies Motiers, where Rousseau wrote his 
 ‘Lettres de la Montague’. On the same side of the valley lies the 
 pleasant little town of Couvet. Near stat. Travers, which gives 
 its name to the valley, rises the Creux du Vent (4806 ft.). 1 
 
 At Noiraiyue, the Val de Travers terminates and the train 
 enters a wooded ravine of the Reuse. Numerous tunnels and 
 viaducts. Fine view to the r. of the Lake of Neuchatel and the 
 Alps. The train descends to Auvernier, the junction for Yver- 
 don, crosses the Ravine of Serri'tres by a lofty viaduct, and finally 
 reaches the station of Neuchatel, situated high above the town. 
 
 317M. Neuchatel (’‘Hotel Bellevue, on the lake, omnibus 
 3 / 4 fr. ; * Hotel des Alpes, near the lake; *Faucon, in the town; 
 Hotel du Lac, on the lake; Hotel du Commerce near the post- 
 office); see Baedeker’s Switzerland. 
 
311 
 
 53. From Paris to Geneva, 
 
 by Macon, Aniberieu, and Culoz. 
 
 391 M. Railway in 15—19 Urs.; fares 76 fr. 75, 57 fr. 55, 42 fr. 50 c. — 
 Station in the Boulevart Mazas (see p. 27). 
 
 Journey to (197 M.) Dijon, see p. 309. The train crosses the 
 Ouche and the Canal de Bouryogne (p. 309) and skirts the sunny 
 vineyards of the Cote d’Or, which produce the choicest Burgundy 
 wines. At Vougeot is the famous Clos -Vougeot vineyard. Near 
 Nuits-sous-Beaune a battle was fought between the Germans and 
 the French in Dec., 1870. 
 
 219 1 / z M. Beaune (Arbre d'Or), a town with 10,900 inhab., 
 on the Bouzoise, deals largely in Burgundy wines. Notre Dame, 
 a church of the 12th and 15th cent., has a line, but mutilated 
 portal. A monument has been erected here to the mathematician 
 Monge, a native of Beaune (d. 1818). 
 
 Pomard and Volnay, which lie to the r., are noted for thcdr red 
 wines, and Meursault for its white. From Chagny a branch-line 
 diverges in several ramifications to Autun , Nevers, and Creuzot, 
 which last possesses important foundries. The train passes under 
 the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saone and the Loire, by 
 means of a tunnel, and enters the valley of the Thalie. 
 
 239 M. Ch5,lon - sur - Saone (Hotels des Trois Faisans, du 
 Chevreuil , de VEurope; Buffet at the second station, that of 
 Chalon-Ville), a town with 19,000 inhab., situated at the junction 
 of the Canal du Centre with the Saone , contains little to interest 
 the traveller. The express trains do not touch Chalon , the branch- 
 line to which diverges from the junction St. Cosine. Branch-lines 
 hence to Lons-le-Saulnier and to Dole. 
 
 The line follows the r. bank of the Saone; to the 1. in the 
 distance rises the Jura; to the r. in clear weather the snowy sum¬ 
 mit of Mont Blanc, upwards of 100 M. distant, is visible. 
 
 255 M. Tournus (Sauvage ; Buffet), a town with 5640 inhab. 
 on the Saone , possesses a remarkable abbey-church , dedicated to 
 *St. Philibert, begun in 960, and completed in the 12tli cent. 
 Greuze (d. 1805) was a native of Tournus. 
 
 275 M. Macon (Hotels des Champs Elysees, de iEurope, du 
 Sauvage; Buffet), the capital of the Department of the Saone and 
 Loire, with 18,400 inhab., is another great centre of the wine-trade. 
 The remains of the cathedral of St. Vincent are partly in the 
 Romanesque style. Macon was the birthplace of Lamartine. The 
 Lyons line proceeds towards the S., a branch-line diverges to 
 Moulins towards the W., while the Geneva line turns towards the E. 
 
 The train crosses the Saone and enters the Departement de 
 l’Ain, following the course of the Veyle. 
 
312 55. Route. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 299 M. Bourg (Hotel de VEurope, de France , du Midi; Buffet), 
 with 13,730 inhab., the ancient capital of Bress , and now that 
 of the Department of the Ain, is situated on the Reyssouse. The 
 church of Notre Dame, erectedin the 15th — 17th cent., contains 
 pictures, sculptures, and fine wood-carving. On the promenade 
 Le Bastion is a * Monument of Bichat (d. 1802), the anatomist, who 
 was born near Bourg, by David d’Angers. — Bourg lies on the 
 direct line from Lyons to Strasbourg via Besangon and Mulhouse. 
 
 The celebrated Church of Brou, in the florid Gothic style, erected in 
 1511—36 by Margaret of Austria, is situated >|2 M. from the town. It 
 contains the sumptuous * Monuments of the foundress, her husband Phili¬ 
 bert, Duke of Savoy, and her mother-in-law Margaret of Bourbon. Her 
 well-known motto, ‘ Fortune infortune forte une\ may be seen in different 
 parts of the church. 
 
 Near Pont d'Ain the train crosses the Ain. 319 M. Amberieu, 
 a pleasant little town on the Albarine, at the base of the Jura Mts., 
 is the junction for Lyons. 
 
 The train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which soon becomes 
 more picturesque, and is quitted at Tenay. Beyond Rossitlon, to 
 the r., are the lakes of Puyieu. ' The line now enters the valley of 
 the Rhone. 
 
 349*/o M. Culoz (Buffet) is the junction for Chambdry and Aix- 
 les-Bains , and also for Italy via the Mont Cenis tunnel. A con¬ 
 siderable detention and a change of carriages generally take place 
 here. To the N. rises the Colombier (5033 ft.), which commands 
 a fine view. 
 
 The train traverses the broad, marshy valley of the Rhone. 
 Seyssel lies on both banks of the river, which are connected by a 
 double suspension-bridge. Beyond Pyrimont the train passes 
 through four tunnels. 
 
 371 M. Bellegarde (Poste; Buffet). Custom-house formalities 
 here for travellers entering France. 
 
 Immediately beyond Bellegarde the train crosses the great 
 Valserine Viaduct and enters the long Credo Tunnel (2>/ 2 M.). 
 To the r. is the l Perte du Rhone*, a rocky chasm in which the river 
 is ‘lost’. To the L, near Collonges , the last French station, rises 
 the Fort de VEcluse, which commands the defile. 
 
 391 M. Geneva ( Hotels de la Metropole, Ecu de Geneve, 
 Couronne, du Luc, des Beryues, de Russie; de laPctix, d’Angleterre, 
 Victoria, Geneve, etc., see Badeker's Switzerland. 
 
Index 
 
 Abbeville 280. 
 
 St e . Adresse 292. 
 Aflfrique, Mont 309. 
 Aigremont 295. 
 
 Ailly - le - Haut - Clocher 
 280. 
 
 - sur-Noye 282. 
 
 — -sur-Somme 280. 
 
 Ain, the 312. 
 
 Aisne, the 303. 
 Aix-la-Chapelle 296. 
 Albarine, the 312. 
 Alen^on 310. 
 
 Alfort 267. 
 
 Alise Ste. Reine 309. 
 Altkirch 307. 
 Altmiinsterol 307. 
 Amance, the 306. 
 Ambdrieu 312. 
 
 Amiens 280. 
 Ancy-le-Franc 308. 
 Apremont 271. 
 
 Arbois 310. 
 
 Arctic iller 302. 
 Argenteuil 259. 
 Armainvillers 305. 
 Armaneon, the 308. 
 Arques 285. 
 
 —, the 284. 
 
 Ars 304. 
 
 Arsonval 30G. 
 
 Asnieres 235. 
 
 Aube, the 306. 
 
 Aujon, the 306. 
 
 Aulnoye 294. 
 
 Auteuil 130. 233. 237. 
 Autreau 280. 
 
 Auvernier 310. 
 
 Auvers 273. 
 
 Auxerre 308. 
 
 Auxonne 309. 
 
 Avre, the 280. 
 
 Avricourt 302. 
 
 Bagatelle 130. 
 
 Bale 307. 
 
 Bar-le-Due 299. 
 Bar-sur-Aube 306. 
 Barbison 272. 
 
 Barentin 293. 
 
 Barr 302. 
 
 Bas-Br&ui 271. 
 
 Batilly 303. 
 
 Beaumont 273. 
 
 Beaune 311. 
 
 Beauvais 282. 
 
 Belfort 307. 
 
 Bellegarde 312. 
 
 Bellevue 237. 
 
 Berck 280. 
 
 Besancon 307. 310. 
 Bdthune, the 285. 
 Beuzeville 293. 
 
 Bezons 290. 
 
 Bi&vre, the 205. 
 
 Bingen 304. 
 
 Bizy 290. 
 
 Blainville-la-Graude 301. 
 Blaisy-Bas 309. 
 
 Blesme 299. 
 
 Bois-le-Roi 268. 
 
 Bolbec 293. 
 
 Bondy 297. 
 
 Bonnieres 290. 
 
 Boran 273. 
 
 Borcette 296. 
 
 Bouille, La 289. 
 Boulogne-sur-Mer 277. 
 Boulogne-sur-Seine 254. 
 Bourbonne les-Bains 306. 
 Bourg 312. 
 
 Bourgogne, Canal de 309. 
 Boursault, chateau 298. 
 Bouzoise, the 311. 
 Boveresse 310. 
 
 Boves 282. 
 Braine-le-Comte 297. 
 Br^aute 293. 
 
 Bresse, the 312. 
 
 Breteuil 282. 
 
 Bricon 306. 
 
 Brie 305. 
 
 Brou, church of 312. 
 Brunoy 267. 
 
 Brussels 297. 
 
 Burtscheid 296. 
 
 Busigny 294. 
 
 Calais 283. 
 
 Calvados, rochers de 292. 
 
 Cambrai 317. 
 
 Cancale 285. 
 
 Carentan 307. 
 Cateau-Cambrcsis 294. 
 St. Catherine, Mont 288. 
 Cauche, the 280. 
 
 Caux, Pays de 293. 
 Centre, Canal du 311. 
 Cesson 267. 
 
 Chablis 308. 
 
 Chagny 311. 
 
 Chalifert 298. 
 
 Chalindrey 306. 
 Chalmaison 305. 
 Chalon-sur-Saone 311. 
 Chalons -sur-Marne 299. 
 Champagnole 310. 
 
 Champigneulies 300. 
 Champigny 305. 308. 
 Champvans 310. 
 Chantilly 273. 
 
 Charenton 174. 267. 
 Charleroi 295. 
 
 Chartres 309. 
 
 Chateaulin 314. 
 Chateau-Thierry 298. 
 Chatillon sur-Seine 308. 
 Chatou 258. 
 Chaudfontaine 295. • 
 
 Chaumont 306. 
 
 C'hauny 294. 
 
 Chaville 236. 
 
 Chelles 297. 
 
 Chokier 295. 
 Cirey-sur-Vezouze 302. 
 Clairvaux 306. 
 
 Clamart 237. 
 
 Clermont de l'Oise 282. 
 Clichy 235. 
 
 St. Cioud 254. 
 
 Cluse, la 310. 
 
 Collonges 312. 
 
 Cologne 296. 
 
 Colombes 259. 290. 
 Colombier, the 312. 
 Combs-la-Vi lie 267. 
 Commelle 273. 
 Commercy 299. 
 Compiegne 275. 
 
 Contlans 290. 
 
314 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 St. Cosine 311. 
 
 Cote de Grace 292. 
 
 Cote d’Or, the 309. 311. 
 Coney 316. 
 
 Coulommiers 305. 
 Courbevoie 235. 
 Courcelles 289. 
 
 Courgain 283. 
 
 Couvet 310. 
 
 Coye 273. 
 
 Credo, Tunnel du 312. 
 Creil 274. 282. 
 
 Creux du Vent, the 310. 
 Creuzot 311. 
 
 Cuisance, the 310. 
 
 Culoz 312. 
 
 Damery 298. 
 
 Dammart 298. 
 Dammerkirch 307. 
 Dannemarie 307. 
 Deanville 292. 
 
 St. Denis 259. 
 
 St. Die 302. 
 
 Dieppe 284. 
 
 Dieuze 302. 
 
 Dijon 309. 
 
 Dole 310. 
 
 Dolhain 296. 
 
 Dormans 298. 
 
 Doubs, the 310. 
 
 Dover 283. 
 
 Durgeon, the 307. 
 
 Eaulne, the 285. 
 
 Ecluse, Fort de F 312. 
 Ecouen 273. 
 
 Elbeuf 289. 
 
 Emberme'nil 302. 
 Empereur, Fort F 272. 
 Enghien-les-Bains 266. 
 Engis 295. 
 
 Epernav 298. 
 
 Epinal 306. 
 
 Epinay 259. 
 
 Ermont 59. 273. 
 Erquelines 294. 
 
 Escaut, the 295. 
 
 Esneval 293. 
 
 Etain 303. 
 
 Etaples 280. 
 
 Eure, the 289. 
 
 Evreux 304. 
 
 Faloise 282. 
 
 Fecamp 293. 
 
 Feignies 296. 
 
 Flamboin 305. 
 
 Flemalle 295. 
 
 Fleurier 310. 
 
 St. Florentin 308. 
 Folkestone 277. 
 
 Folleville 282. 
 Fontainebleau 267. 
 Fontenay 172. 
 Fontenoy 300. 
 Forest 297. 
 Fraipont 295. 
 Franchard 271. 
 Franconville 273. 
 Frouard 300. 303. 
 
 Gaillon 289. 
 
 Geneva 312. 
 
 St. Germain - en - Laye 
 257. 
 
 Geroldseck 302. 
 
 Girard, Monts 272. 
 Gisors 273. 289. 
 
 St. Gobain 294. 
 
 Gonesse 273. 
 
 Gournay 273. 282. 
 Goussainville 273. 
 Granville 285. 
 
 Gravelle 172. 
 
 Gravelotte 303. 
 
 Graville 292. 
 
 Gray 306. 
 
 Greifenstein 302. 
 Grenelle 228. 
 
 Gretz 305. 
 
 Gris-Nez, Cap 283. 
 
 Hal 297. 
 
 Ham 294. 
 
 Hangest 280. 
 
 Harfleur 293. 
 
 Hautmont 294. 
 
 Havre, Le 291. 
 Herbesthal 296. 
 Herblay 273. 
 
 Hermalle 295. 
 
 I-Ieve, La 292. 
 
 St. Hilaire - au -Temple 
 303. 
 
 Holi-Barr 302. 
 
 Honfleur 292. 
 
 Iliiningen 307. 
 
 Huy 295. 
 
 Ill, the 307. 
 
 Ingouville 292. 
 
 Issy 235. 
 lvry 267. 
 
 Jaucourt 306. 
 
 Jessains 305. 
 
 .leumont 294. 
 
 Joigny 308. 
 Joinville-le-Pont 171. 
 Jouarre 298. 
 
 Joux, Fort de 310. 
 Jouy-aux-Arches 304. 
 
 Jura Mts., the 310. 
 Jurbise 297. 
 
 St. Just-en-Chaussee 
 282. 
 
 La Bouille 289. 
 
 — Chapelle 259. 
 
 — Cluse 310. 
 
 — Faloise 282. 
 
 — Fere 294. 
 
 — H&ve 292. 
 
 — Roche 308. 
 
 — Rochette 295. 
 
 — Veuve 303. 
 Lafertd-sur-Amance 306. 
 
 — -sous-Jouarre 298. 
 Lagny 298. 
 
 Landrecies 294. 
 
 Langres 306. 
 
 Lanterne deDdmosthene 
 256. 
 
 Laon 294. 
 
 Laroche 308. 
 
 Laumes, les 309. 
 
 Laval 312. 
 
 Le Cateau - Cambresis 
 294. 
 
 — Crotoy 280. 
 
 — Havre 291. 
 
 — Mourmelon 299. 
 
 — Pecq 259. 
 
 — Pollet 285. 
 
 — Rainey 297. 
 
 — Trdport 280. 
 
 — Trooz 295. 
 
 — Vesinet 258. 
 
 Les Laumes 309. 
 
 — Loges 259. 
 
 — Verrieres 310. 
 
 St. Leu 273. 
 
 St. Leu-Tavernay 273. 
 Levallois 232. 
 
 Ldzarde, the 293. 
 Liancourt 282. 
 
 Liane, the 278. 
 
 Lidge 295. 
 
 Lieusaint 267. 
 
 Limburg 296. 
 
 Lisieux 292. 
 
 LTsle Adam 273. 
 Liverdun 300. 
 
 Loges, Les 259. 
 
 Loing, the 307. 
 Longchamp 130. 
 Longprd 280. 
 
 Longueau 282. 
 Longueville 305. 
 
 Loue, the 310. 
 
 St. Louis 307. 
 Louveciennes 254. 259. 
 Louviers 289. 
 
 Louvres 273. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 315 
 
 Luneville 302. 
 Lutzelbourg 302. 
 Luxembourg 304. 
 Luzarches 273. 
 
 Macon 311. 
 Maisons-Laffitte 290. 
 Malain 309. 
 
 Malaunay 285. 293. 
 Malmaison 257. 
 
 St. Mande 174. 
 Mannheim 304. 
 
 Mantes 290. 
 
 Maranville 306. 
 Marche-les-Dames 295. 
 Marlotte 272. 
 
 Marly 254. 259. 
 
 Marne, the 171.298.304. 
 Marquise 283. 
 
 Masures , chateau des 
 295. 
 
 Maubeuge 294 . 296. 
 
 St. Maur, Champ de 172. 
 —, Canal de 171. 
 
 St. Maxiinin 274. 
 
 Meaux 298. 
 
 Melun 267. 
 
 Ste. Menehould 303. 
 
 Metz 304. 
 
 Meudon 237. 
 
 Meursault 311. 
 
 Meurthe, the 300. 
 
 Meuse, the 295. 
 
 Minimes, Lac des 172. 
 Mons 296. 
 
 Montbard 308. 
 Montbelliard 307. 
 Montdidier 282. 
 Montereau 308. 
 Montescourt 294. 
 Montgeron 267. 
 Montmorency 266. 
 Montretout 236. 
 Montreux-Vieux 307. 
 Montreuil 280. 
 
 Moret 307. 
 
 Mormal 294. 
 
 Moselle, the 300. 
 
 Motiers 310. 
 
 Motteville 293. 
 
 Mouchard 310. 
 Mourmelon, Le 299. 
 Mousson 303. 
 
 Mulhausen 307. 
 
 Nameche 295. 
 
 Namur 295. 
 
 Nancy 300. 
 
 Nangis 305. 
 
 Nanterre 257. 
 
 Nessonvaux 295. 
 Neufchateau 299. 
 
 Neuchatel 310. 
 Neufchatel 280. 
 
 Neuilly 127.^ 
 
 Newhaven 284. 
 
 St. Nicolas 301. 
 
 Nogent-sur - Marne 171. 
 304. 
 
 Nogent-sur-Seine 305. 
 Nointot 293. 
 
 Noiraigue 310. 
 Noisy-le-Sec 297. 304. 
 Notre-Dame des Flam- 
 mes 237. 
 
 Noveant 303. 
 
 Noye, the 282. 
 
 Noyelles 280. 
 
 No yon 294. 
 
 Nuits-sous-Beaune 311. 
 Nuits-sous-Ravieres 308. 
 
 Odon, the 307. 
 
 Oise, the 274. 
 
 Oissel 282. 289. 
 
 Ornain, the 299. 
 Orry-la-Ville 273. 
 
 Ouche, the 309. 
 
 St. Ouen 260. 
 
 St. Ouen l’Aumone 273. 
 Ourcq, Canal de V 234. 
 
 Pagny-sur-Meuse 299. 
 
 — sur-Moselle 303. 
 Pantin 297. 
 
 Paraclet 305. 
 
 Paris 1. 
 
 Abattoirs 234. 
 Acaddmie Francaise 
 212 . 
 
 Allee des Veuves 124. 
 American Chapels 41. 
 St. Antoine, Faubourg 
 62. 
 
 Arc de Triomphe du 
 Carrousel 113. 
 
 *- de l'Etoile 125. 
 
 Arrival 1. 
 
 Artesian well of Gre- 
 nelle 228. 
 
 Assumption, Ch. of the 
 75. 
 
 Auctions 36. 
 
 Augustin, egl. St. 150. 
 Avenue de lTmpera- 
 trice 128. 
 
 — de la Grande Ar- 
 mee 127. 
 
 Avenue Montaigne 124. 
 
 — de Neuilly 127. 
 
 — Uhrich 128. 
 
 Balls 51. 
 
 Banque de France 80. 
 Bastille, Place de la 61. J 
 
 Paris : 
 
 Baths 39. 
 
 —, Roman 199. 
 Bazaars 36. 
 
 Beer 16. 
 
 Belleville 167. 
 
 *St. Bernard 153. 
 
 Bibliotheque Nationale 
 143. 
 
 — St e . Genevieve 195. 
 — Mazarine 214. 
 
 Blind Institution 227. 
 *Bois de Boulogne 
 128. 
 
 — de Vincennes 171. 
 Booksellers 38. 
 
 Botanic Garden 205. 
 Bouftes Parisiens 47. 
 Boulevard des Aman- 
 
 diers 64. 
 
 — Beaumarchais 63. 
 
 — Bonne-Nouvelle 66. 
 
 — des Capucines 68. 
 
 — du Crime 63. 
 
 — des Filles-du-Cal- 
 vaire 63. 
 
 — Haussmann 74. 
 
 — des Italiens 68. 
 
 — de la Madeleine 72. 
 
 — de Magenta 64. 
 
 — Malesherbes 74. 
 
 — St. Martin 64. 
 
 — St. Michel 84. 
 
 — Montmartre 66. 
 
 — Poissonniere 60. 
 
 — du Prince-Eugene, 
 v. Voltaire. 
 
 — Richard-Lenoir 61. 
 
 — de Sebastopol 65. 
 
 134. 
 
 — de Strasbourg 65. 
 
 135. 
 
 — du Temple 63. 
 
 — Voltaire 64. 
 
 ^Boulogne, Boisde 128. 
 
 Bourse, la 66. 
 
 *Buttes Chaumont, Les 
 167. 
 
 Cabinets de lecture 38. 
 Cabs 20. 
 
 Cadran Bleu 63. 
 
 Cafes 17. 
 
 Cates Chantants 50. 
 Canal St. Martin 61. 
 Cannes - Billettes, 
 temple des 41. 
 Carriages 20. 
 
 Casernes 64. 139. 150. 
 Catacombs, the 229. 
 Cemetery of Mont¬ 
 martre 169. 
 
 — Montparnasse 228. 
 
316 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Paris : 
 
 **Ceinetery of Pere La- 
 chaise 154. 
 
 — Picpus 167. 
 
 Chalet des lies 51. 129. 
 Champ de Mars 225. 
 Champs Elysees 122. 
 Chapelle Expiatoire 
 149. 
 
 — St. Ferdinand 127. 
 Chateau d’Eau 63. 
 Chateau Rouge 51. 
 Chemins de fer 26. 
 Chemin de fer Ame- 
 ricain 24. 
 
 -de Ceinture 232. 
 
 Chemists 3L. 
 
 Chinois 20. 
 
 Churches: 
 
 Assumption 75. 
 
 St. Augustin 150. 
 *St. Bernard 153. 
 
 Carmes-Billettes 41. 
 *Ste. Clotilde 218. 
 *St. Etienne du Mont 
 96. 
 
 *St. Eustaclie 41. 
 *St. Germain PAu- 
 xerrois 135. 
 
 St. Germain des Pres 
 
 210 . 
 
 St. Gervais et St. 
 Protais 140. 
 
 *St. Jean-Baptiste 168. 
 Invalides 224. 
 
 St. Laurent 153. 
 ^Madeleine 72. 
 
 Ste. Marie 41. 
 
 St. Mtidard 207. 
 
 St. Merri 137. 
 
 St. Nicolas des 
 Champs 149. 
 *Notre Dame 75. 
 *Notre Dame de Lo- 
 rette 151. 
 
 — des Victoires 80. 
 Oratoire 134. 
 *Pantheon 92. 
 
 St. Paul et St. Louis 
 140. 
 
 Pentemont 41. 
 
 St. Rocli 75. 
 *Sainte-Chapelle 81. 
 *St. Sulpice 208. 
 
 St. Thomas d'Aquin 
 219. 
 
 *Trinitd 150. 
 
 *St. Vincent de Paul 
 151. 
 
 Cigars 36. 
 
 Circuses 48. 
 
 Cirque d’Ete 48. 124. 
 
 Cirque dTIiver 49. 63. 
 Citd, island 175. 
 Closcrie des Lilas 51. 
 *St e . Clotilde 218. 
 College St. Barbe 196. 
 
 — de France 200. 
 
 — Mazarin 212. 
 
 — des Quatre Nations 
 
 212 . 
 
 Collections, etc. 
 Algerian, 87. 
 Anatomical, 204. 
 Antiquities from 
 Asia Minor, 85. 
 —, Smaller, 107. 
 ^Assyrian Antiquities 
 85. 
 
 Botanical, 204. 
 Bronzes, Ancient 
 108. 
 
 Campana 105. 
 
 Casts 85. 
 
 Coins and Medals 
 145. 
 
 Drawings 108. 
 ^Egyptian Antiqui¬ 
 ties 83. 
 
 Engravings 89. 
 Ethnographical 112. 
 Geological 204. 
 
 La Caze (pictures) 
 95. 
 
 Medailles et Anti¬ 
 ques 145. 
 
 ^Sculptures, Ancient 
 90. 
 
 —, Medizeval and Re¬ 
 naissance 87. 
 
 —, Modern 89. 
 Zoological, 204. 
 Colonne de Juillet 61. 
 — Vendbme 71. 
 Concerts 49. 
 Conciergerie 182. 
 Confectioners 19. 
 Conjurers 49. 
 
 Conseil d’Etat 217. 
 ^Conservatoire des Arts 
 et Metiers 147. 
 
 — de Musique 49. 
 Cour des Comptes 217. 
 Cours la Reine 122. 
 Custom-house XVI. 1. 
 Cremeries 17. 
 Daubenton''s monu¬ 
 ment 203. 
 
 Deaf and Dumb Insti¬ 
 tution 208. 
 
 Dentists 40. 
 
 Desaix's monument 
 183. 
 
 Paris: 
 
 Diary 57. 
 
 Diners a Prix-Pixe 10. 
 Distribution of Time 
 53. 
 
 Docks Napoleon 235. 
 Dog-market 37. 
 
 Dome des Invalides 
 224. 
 
 Douane 1. 
 
 Drainage 230. 
 
 Ecole des Beaux Arts 
 214. 
 
 — de Droit 200. 
 
 — de Medecine 200. 
 
 — Militaire 225. 
 
 — de tir 172. 
 
 Egouts 230. 
 
 Embassies 42. 
 
 English Churches 41. 
 Etablissements de 
 
 bouillon 16. 
 Etablissements hydro- 
 therapiques 40. 
 
 *St. Etienne du Mont 
 196. 
 
 *St. Eustaclie 141. 
 Exchange 66. 
 
 Extent XXII. 
 
 St. Ferdinand, Cha¬ 
 pelle 127. 
 
 Fiacres 20. 
 
 Flower Markets 37. 72. 
 Fontaine Cuvier 203. 
 
 — des Innocents 143. 
 — Louvois 144. 
 
 *— de Medicis 191. 
 
 — St. Michel 184. 
 
 — Moliere 147. 
 
 *— Notre Dame 178. 
 
 — St. Sulpice 210. 
 
 — de la Victoire 136. 
 Fortifications 131. 
 Frascati 50. 67. 68. 
 Gare de PEst 153. 
 
 — du Nord 152. 
 
 Ste. Genevieve, Biblio- 
 fclieque 195. 
 
 *St. Germain PAuxer- 
 rois 135. 
 
 St.Germain desPres210. 
 St. Gervais et St. Pro¬ 
 tais 140. 
 
 Gobelins, the 205. 
 Goods-agents 36. 
 Greve, Place de 140. 
 Gymnastic Establish¬ 
 ments 125. 
 
 Halle au Ble 143. 
 Halle aux Vins 37. 
 *Halles Centrales 37. 
 142. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 317 
 
 Pans 
 
 Henri IV., Statue of 
 148. 
 
 Hippodrome 49. 130. 
 History XVI. 
 
 Hopital des femmes 
 incurables 235. 
 
 — de la Charite 216. 
 — Lariboisiere 153. 
 Horse-Market. 37. 
 
 Horse Railway 24. 
 Hotels 3. 
 
 Hotels garnis 8. 
 
 Hotel de Cluny 197. 
 
 — I)ieu 178. 
 
 — des Invalides 219. 
 
 — des Monnaies 211. 
 
 — des Ventes Mobilie- 
 res 36. 
 
 * — de Ville 137. 
 
 Ippc |Q 
 
 lie de ia Cite 175. 
 
 — St. Louis 175. 
 Imprimerie Nat.ionale 
 63. 
 
 Institut de France 212. 
 Institution des Jeunes 
 Aveugles 227. 
 
 — des sourds-muets 
 208. 
 
 Invalides, Hotel des 
 219. 
 
 *St. Jacques, Tour 136 
 *Jardin d’Acclimatation 
 131. 
 
 — Bullier 51. 
 
 * — du Luxembourg 190. 
 
 — Mabille 51. 
 
 * — des Plantes 201. 
 
 * — des Tuileries 117. 
 *St. Jean-Baptiste 168. 
 July-Column 61. 
 
 St. Laurent. 153. 
 Libraries, public, see 
 Bibliotheques. 
 Longchamp 130. 
 
 Louis XIII., Statue of 
 62. 
 
 Louis XIV., Statue of 
 62. 
 
 **Louvre 81. 
 ^Luxembourg , palais 
 du 185. 
 
 Lyce'cCharlemagne 141. 
 — Louis-le-Grand 200. 
 — St,. Louis 200. 
 Mabille 51. 
 ^Madeleine, la 72. 
 Madrid 130. 
 
 Maison d’Educat. de la 
 Legion d'Honneur 
 265. 
 
 Paris : 
 
 *Maison de Francois I. 
 124. 
 
 Maisons meublees 8. 
 
 — de sante 40. 153. 
 Malesherbes, Statue of 
 
 180. 
 
 Marais, Quartier du 62. 
 Marche aux Chevaux 
 37. 
 
 Marche fSt. Germain 
 37. 210. 
 
 — du Temple 37. 
 
 Ste. Marie 41. 
 
 Markets 37. 
 
 Mazas, prison 27. 
 Measures XXIII. 
 
 St. Medard 207. 
 
 St. Merri 37. 
 Messageries 28. 
 Ministere des affaires 
 
 etrangeres 217. 
 
 — de la Marine 75. 
 *Monceaux, pare de 
 
 133. 
 
 Money XV. 
 Montmartre 168. 
 
 —, cemetery of 169. 
 
 —, Faubourg 66. 
 Montparnasse, ceme¬ 
 tery of 228. 
 Montsouris 229. 
 
 Mont Vale'rien 235. 
 Musee Americain 113. 
 
 — d’Artillerie 222. 
 
 — Carnavalet 141. 
 
 — Cdramique 256. 
 
 — de Cluny 197. 
 
 — des Copies 216. 
 
 — Gallo-Romain 258. 
 ** — Historiquc (Ver¬ 
 sailles) 238. 
 
 — de Marine 211. 
 
 — Municipal 141. 
 
 — Napoldon III. 105. 
 109. 
 
 — des Petits Augustins 
 214. 
 
 — de la Renaissance 
 109. 
 
 — des Thermes 197. 
 
 — des voitures 254. 
 Museum of Natural 
 
 History 201. 
 ^Napoleon's I. Tomb 
 221 . 
 
 Neuillv 127. 
 Newspapers 38. 
 
 Ney's Statue 192. 
 
 St. Nicolas des Champs 
 149 
 
 *Notre Dame 175. 
 
 Paris: 
 
 *Notre Dame de Lo¬ 
 re tte 151. 
 
 Notre Dame des Vic- 
 toires 80. 
 
 ^Obelisk of Luxor 121. 
 Observatoire 92. 
 Oculists 40. 
 
 Oddon 45. 190. 
 Omnibuses 1. 22. 
 Opdra, Old 43. 68. 
 
 — , New 68. 
 
 Opdra Comique 45. 
 Oratoire, 1' 134. 
 
 Palais des Beaux Arts 
 214. 
 
 — du Corps Legislatif 
 217. 
 
 — de l'Elysee 123. 
 
 — de l'lndustrie 123. 
 
 +— de Justice 179. 
 
 — du Louvre 81. 
 
 — de la Ldgion d'hon- 
 neur 217. 
 
 * — du Luxembourg 185. 
 — Pompeien 125. 
 
 — Royal 77. 
 
 — du Senat, 186. 
 
 — des Tournelles 62. 
 
 — des Tuileries 113. 
 
 * Pa no ram a 124. 
 *Pantheon 192. 
 
 *Parc de Monceaux 133. 
 Parc de Montsouris 229. 
 Passage Jouffroy 66. 
 
 — des Panoramas 66. 
 
 — de l'Opera 68. 
 Passports XVI. 
 Patissiers 19. 
 
 St. Paul et St. Louis 
 140. 
 
 Pentemont 141. 
 **Pere-Lachaise , ceme¬ 
 tery of 154. 
 Physicians 40. 
 
 Picpus, cemetery 167. 
 ^Picture - Gallery 
 (Louvre) 95. 
 
 *— (Luxembourg) 187. 
 Place de la Bastille 61. 
 
 — de la Bourse 66. 
 
 — du Carrousel 113. 
 
 — du Chateau d'Eau 63. 
 
 — du Chatelet 136. 
 
 ** — de la Concorde 119. 
 
 — Dauphine 183. 
 
 | — de Greve 140. 
 
 I — Lafayette 151. 
 
 — Louvois 144. 
 
 — Napoleon 83. 113. 
 
 — des Pyramides 134. 
 
 — duRoideRome 226. 
 
318 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Paris : 
 
 Place Royale v. des 
 Vosges. 
 
 — du Trocadero 226. 
 
 — du Trone 174. 
 
 — Vendome 71. 
 
 — des Victoires 80. 
 
 — Voltaire 64. 
 
 — des Vosges 62. 
 Policemen 3. 
 
 Pont de TAlma 125. 
 
 — du Carrousel 216. 
 
 — au Change 137. 
 
 — d lena 226. 
 
 — des Invalides 226. 
 
 *— Neuf 184. 
 
 Population XXII. 
 
 Porte St. Denis 65. 
 
 — Maillot 127. 
 
 — St. Martin 64. 
 
 Post Oflice 28. 
 
 Pre Catelan 50. 129. 
 Prefecture de Police 
 182 
 
 — de la Seine 130. 186. 
 Prison de la Concier- 
 
 gerie 82. 
 
 — disciplinaire 207. 
 
 — des jeunes detenus 
 155. 
 
 — de St. Lazare 154. 
 — Mazas 27. 
 
 — de la Roquette 155. 
 Private Apartments 
 
 7. 8. 
 
 Protestant Churches 
 41. 
 
 Quartier Latin 8. 185. 
 — St. Germain 217. 
 Railway Omnibuses 26. 
 Railway Stations 26. 
 Reading Rooms 38. 
 Restaurants 8. 
 Revenues XXII. 
 
 Rivoli, Rue de 135. 
 
 St. Roch 75. 
 
 Roman Baths 199. 
 Roquette, Prison de la 
 155. 
 
 Royale, Rue 75. 
 
 Rue de la Chaussee 
 d -1 An tin 68. 
 
 — du Faubourg St. 
 Antoine 62. 
 
 -Montmartre 66. 
 
 — St. Ilonore 75. 
 
 — Laffitte 68.^ 
 
 — de la Paix 71. 
 
 — Xeuve des Petits 
 Champs 80. 
 
 — Richelieu 67. 147. 
 
 — de Rivoli 135. | 
 
 Paris : 
 
 Rue Royale 75. 
 
 — Vivienne 67. 
 Russian Church 126. 
 *Sainte-Chapelle 181. 
 Sanitary establish¬ 
 ments 40. 153. 
 Savonnerie, la 205. 
 Seminaire de St. Sul- 
 pice 210. 
 
 Sergents de Ville 3. 
 Shops 30. 
 
 Solferino, Tour de 169. 
 Sorbonne, the 200. 
 Square des Arts et 
 Metiers 149. 
 
 Statistics XVI. 
 
 Statue of Joan of Arc 
 134. 
 
 — of Daubenton 203. 
 
 — of Desaix 183. 
 
 — of Henri IV. 184. 
 
 — of Louis XIII. 62. 
 
 — of Louis XIV. 80. 
 
 — of Marshal Ney 192. 
 Steamboats 25. 
 
 *St. Sulpice 208. 
 Swimming-baths 39. 
 Tabacs , manufacture 
 des 226. 
 
 Tattersall Francais37. 
 Telegraph Offices 30. 
 Theatres 42. 
 
 Theatre de TAmbigu 
 Comique 64. 68. 
 
 — Beaumarchais 48. 
 63. 
 
 — du Chatelet 47.137. 
 -- des Folies Drama- 
 
 tiques 48. 64. 
 
 — Francais 44. 78. 
 
 — de la Gaite 47. 149. 
 
 — du Gymnase 46. 66. 
 — Italien 45. 
 
 — Lyrique 46. 137. 
 
 — du Palais Royal 47. 
 79. 
 
 — de la Porte St. Mar¬ 
 tin 47. 64. 
 
 — de la Renaissance 
 47. 
 
 — des Varietds 46. 66. 
 
 — du Vaudeville 46. 
 68 . 
 
 Theatres de Guignol 
 123. 
 
 Thermes, Palais des 
 199. 
 
 St. Thomas d'Aquin 
 219. 
 
 Timbre, Hotel du 80. 
 *Tour St. Jacques 136. 
 
 Paris : 
 
 Tournelles, palais des 
 62. 
 
 Tramway 24. 
 
 Tribunal de Commerce 
 181. 
 
 *Trinite, dgl. de la 150. 
 Trocadero 226. 
 Tuileries, the 113. 
 
 *—, Jardin des 117. 
 University 200. 
 Val-de-Grace 207. 
 Valentino, Salle 51. 
 Vendome Column 71. 
 Villette, la 167. 234. 
 Vincennes, Bois de 171. 
 —, Chateau de 172. 
 *St. Vincent de Paul 151. 
 Voitures 20. 
 
 Weights XXIII. 
 
 Wines 10. 37. 
 Zoological Garden 201. 
 Passy 130. 232. 237. 
 Pavilly 293. 
 
 Pecq, Le 259. 
 
 Pepinster 295. 
 
 Piequigny 280. 
 
 St. Pierre-les-Calais 283. 
 
 — du Vauvray 289. 
 Pierrefitte 273. 
 Pierrefonds 276. 
 
 Poissy 290. 
 
 Pollet, Le 285. 
 
 Pomard 311. 
 
 Pont d’Ain 312. 
 
 — de l 1 Arche 289. 
 
 — de Briques 280. 
 
 — d'Hery 310. 
 
 — Ste. Maxence 275. 
 
 -a-Mousson 303. 
 
 — Remy 280. 
 
 Pontarlier 310. 
 
 Pontigny 308. 
 
 Pontoise 273. 
 
 Port d'Atelier 306. 
 
 -a-Binson 298. 
 
 Port-sur-Sadne 306. 
 
 Precy 273. 
 
 Preny 303. 
 
 Provins 305. 
 
 Pugieu 312. 
 
 Puteaux 235. 
 
 Pyrimont 312. 
 
 St. Quentin 294. 
 
 Qudvy 296. 
 
 Reuse, the 310. 
 Reyssouse, the 312. 
 Rheims 298. 299. 
 Rhine-Marne-Canal, the 
 302. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 319 
 
 Rhine-Rhone Canal, the 
 307. 310. 
 
 Rhone, the 312. 
 
 — , the Perte du 312. 
 Roche, La 308. 
 
 Rochette, La 295. 
 Rolleboise 290. 
 
 Rom illy 305. 
 Rosieres-aux-Salines 301. 
 Rosny 290. 
 
 Rossillon 312. 
 
 Rouen 285. 
 
 Rouilly 305. 
 
 Rue 280. 
 
 Rueil 257. 
 
 Saar, the 302. 
 
 Salins 310. 
 
 Sambre, the 295. 
 
 Samson 295. 
 
 Sannois 259. 
 
 Sadne, the 306. 
 Sarrebourg 302. 
 
 Saverne 302. 
 
 Savoureuse, the 307. 
 Scheldt, the 317. 
 
 Scie, the 285. 
 
 Selle, the 280. 294. 
 Senlis 274. 
 
 Senne, the 297. 
 
 Sens 308. 
 
 Seraing 295. 
 
 Serrieres 310. 
 
 Sevres 256. 
 
 Seyssel 312. 
 
 Soignies 297. 
 
 Somme, the 280. 289. 
 Sotteville 289. 
 
 Southampton 290. 
 Souzon, the 309. 
 
 Spa 295. 
 
 Stains 273. 
 
 Strasbourg 302. 
 
 Suize, the 306. 
 
 Suresnes 130. 235. 
 Surville 308. 
 
 Tanlay 308. 
 
 Tenay 312. 
 
 Tergnier 294. 
 
 Thalie, the 311. 
 Thomery 307. 
 
 Thorigny 298. 
 
 Thuin 294. 
 
 Tonnerre 308. 
 
 Toul 300. 
 
 Tournus 311. 
 
 Tourville 289. 
 
 Travers 310. 
 
 —, Val de 310. 
 
 TnSport 280. 
 
 Treves 304. 
 
 Trianon, Grand and Pe¬ 
 tit 253. 
 
 Trooz, Le 295. 
 
 Trouville sur Mer 292. 
 Troyes 305. 
 
 St. Vaast 285. 
 
 Valt;rien, Mont 235. 
 
 St. Valery-en-Caux 293. 
 St. Valery-sur-Somine 
 280. 
 
 Valseriue, the 312. 
 Vanves 236. 
 
 Varangeville 301. 
 
 Verberie 275. 
 
 Verdun 303. 
 
 Vernon 289. 
 
 Verrieres, Les 310. 
 
 —, col des 310. 
 Versailles 235. 
 
 Verviers 296. 
 
 Vesdre, the 296. 
 
 Vesinet, Le 258. 
 
 Vesoul 307. 
 
 Veuve, la 303. 
 
 Veyle, the 311. 
 
 Vezouze, the 302. 
 
 Ville d’Avray 236. 
 Villemouble 297. 
 Villeneuve St. Georges 
 267. 
 
 — sur Yonne 308. 
 Villiers-le-Bel 273. 
 Villiers-le-Sec 306. 
 Vincennes 172. 
 
 Viroflay 237. 
 Vitry-le-Francois 299. 
 Volnay 311. 
 
 Vosges, the 302. 
 
 Vougeot 311. 
 
 Watten 287. 
 
 Yeres, the 267. 
 Yonne, the 308. 
 Yvetot 293. 
 
 Zabern 302. 
 Zorn, the 302. 
 
List of Names in tlie Plan 
 
 The plan is divided into three sections, the upper red, the 
 central white, and the lower blue. Each section contains 14 
 squares, to which the three columns of numbers refer. Thus, 
 for example, the Rue de I’Abbaye is in the 6th qquare of the 
 white (central) section; the Rue d’Abbeville in the 8th sqare of 
 the reel (upper) section, and so on. 
 
 The numbers of the houses, in streets parallel to the Seine, 
 range from E. to W. ; in the streets at right angles to these, 
 they commence from the river, the even on the right, the un¬ 
 even on the left. No. 1 of the Rue de la Monnaie, as well as 
 No. 1 of the Rue Dauphine , are therefore contiguous to the Pont 
 Neuf on their respective sides of the river. 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Abbatucci . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Alma, avenue de 1' ... 
 
 3 
 
 
 Abbaye, place de 1', voir 
 
 
 
 
 — , passage de 1' ... 
 
 
 3 
 
 des Abbesses. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 —, pont. de T .... 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, de T. 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 Alouettes, des. 
 
 12 
 
 
 Abbaye-aux-Bois,e gl. de 1' 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Alsace, d'. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Abbe de l’Epee, de 1' . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Amandiers, avenue des . . 
 
 
 11 
 
 Abbe Groult, de V (anc. K. 
 
 
 
 
 Amandiers, imp. des (Belle- 
 
 
 
 Groult d’Arcy) .... 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 v i lie). 
 
 
 13 
 
 Abbeville, d’ . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 —, des (Menilmont; nt) . 
 
 13 
 
 
 Abbesses, place des . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Amboise, d’. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Aboukir, d' . 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 
 Ambroise, eglise St- . . . 
 
 
 11 
 
 Acacias, pass, des (Vaugi- 
 
 
 
 
 —, impasse St- .... 
 
 
 11 
 
 rard) . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 11 
 
 —, des (Montmartre) . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Ambroise-Pare. 
 
 10 
 
 
 — , des (les Terncs) . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Amelie . 
 
 
 3 
 
 Affaires Etrangeres, mini- 
 
 
 
 
 Ainelot.. 
 
 
 9 
 
 stere des. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Ampere. 
 
 4 
 
 
 A11 re. 
 
 IU 
 
 
 
 Amsterdam, d'. 
 
 (i 
 
 
 Agricole, dcole. 
 
 
 
 
 Amyot. 
 
 
 
 Agriculture, ministcre de 1' 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Anastase, Ste-. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Aguesseau, d'. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Anatomie, Amphitheatre d' 
 
 
 
 Alain-Chartier. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 Ancienne-Comedie, de 1' 
 
 
 8 
 
 Albe, d' . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Andre, chapelle St- . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 Albouy . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 — , Saint-(Charonne) . . 
 
 
 13 
 
 Alembert, d'. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, Saint-(Montmartre) . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Alesia, d'. 
 
 
 
 
 — -des Arts, place St- . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Alexandre, passage . . . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 - des-Arts, St- . . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Alger, d’. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Andrieux . ,. 
 
 6 
 
 
 Alibert. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Anglais, des. 
 
 
 
 Alice, villa Sainte- . . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Angouleme-du-Temple, d' . 
 
 11 
 
 
 Aliends, asile d .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Anjou, quai d'. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Aligre, d'. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Anjou-Saint-Honore, d' . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 — , place d'. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Anjou-Marais, d' . . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 Allemagne, d 1 . 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 Anne, Sainte- (Bercy) . . 
 
 
 
 Allerav, d'. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 — -Popincourt, pass. Ste- 
 
 
 11 
 
 B^dekcr. Paris. 4th Edition. 0.1 
 
322 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 Anne, Ste-. 
 
 Annelets, des. 
 
 Antin, avenue d 1 . . . . 
 
 — , cite d 1 . 
 
 —, impasse d 1 .... 
 
 —, d'. 
 
 Antoine, St-. 
 
 —, du Faubourg-St- . . 
 — , liopital Saint- . . . 
 
 Apolline, Ste-. 
 
 Aqueduc, de F. 
 
 Arago, boulevard .... 
 
 Arbalete, de l 1 . 
 
 Arbre-Sec, de F .... 
 Arc de Triomphe du Car¬ 
 rousel . 
 
 -de FEtoile . . . 
 
 Arcade, de F. 
 
 Arclieveclie, palais de F 
 — , pont de F .... 
 
 — , quai de F. 
 
 Archives Nationales . . . 
 
 Arcole, pont d’. 
 
 Arcole, d 1 . 
 
 Argenson d 1 . 
 
 Argenteuil, d 1 . 
 
 Argout, d’ (anc. R. des Vieux 
 
 Augustins). 
 
 Armorique, de F . . . . 
 
 Arnaud, de St-. 
 
 Arras, d -1 . 
 
 Arrivde, de F. 
 
 Arsenal. ....... 
 
 Arsenal, de F. 
 
 Arsenal, gare de F . . . 
 
 Arsenal, place de F . . . 
 
 Artillerie, Depot d‘ . . . 
 
 Arts, pont des. 
 
 — et-Metiers, square des 
 
 Asile, de F.. 
 
 Assas. 
 
 Assises publiques . . . . 
 Assomption, eglise de F 
 
 Astorg, d’. 
 
 Auber. 
 
 Aubert, passage. 
 
 Aubigne, d'. 
 
 Aubriot. 
 
 Aubry-le-Bouclier . . . . 
 
 Auger. 
 
 Augustin, eglise Saint- . . 
 
 Augustins, quai des Grands- 
 
 — , des Grands- .... 
 
 Aumale, d 1 . 
 
 Austerlitz, pont d’. . . . 
 
 — , quai d’. 
 
 Avd Maria, de F . . . . 
 
 Babylone, de. 
 
 Bac, du. 
 
 — -d^Asnieres, du . . . 
 
 Baduel, cour. 
 
 Bagneux, de. 
 
 
 
 Baillet. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Bailleul. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Ballettes, des. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 Banque de France.... 
 
 
 7 
 
 —, de ia. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Banquier, du. 
 
 
 
 Barbe, eglise Sainte- . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 —, Sainte-. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Barbet-de-Jouy. 
 
 
 4 
 
 Barbette. 
 
 
 9 
 
 B argue. 
 
 
 
 Barouillere, de la . . . . . 
 
 
 
 Bar res, des. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Barriere-des-Gobelins, de la 
 
 
 
 Barthelemi, cite .... 
 
 13 
 
 
 Barthdlemi. 
 
 
 4 
 
 Bassano. de. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Bassfroi. 
 
 
 12 
 
 Basse (Passy). 
 
 
 1 
 
 -Vignolles, des . . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 Bassins, des. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Bastille, place de la . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Batignollaises, des . •. . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 Batignolles, boulevart des 
 
 G 
 
 
 Batignolles, des (anc. R. dc 
 FHotel deVille Batignolles) 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 Battoir, du. 
 
 
 
 Baume, de la. 
 
 3 
 
 
 Bausset. 
 
 
 
 Bayard. 
 
 3 
 
 
 Bayen. 
 
 2 
 
 
 Bearn, de (anc. Chaussee 
 des Minimes). 
 
 
 9 
 
 Beaubourg . 
 
 
 9 
 
 Beauce, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Beaucour, impasse . . . 
 
 4 
 
 
 Beau-Grenelle, place . . . 
 
 
 
 Beauliarnais, cite .... 
 
 
 14 
 
 Beaujolais-St-Iionore, de . 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 Beaujon, cite. 
 
 —, hopital. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Beaujon. 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 Beaune, de. 
 
 
 Beaumarchais, boulevart . 
 
 
 5 
 
 —, de (Bercy) .... 
 Beauregard-Bonne-Nouvelle 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Beaurepaire (voir Grenetat) 
 
 
 7 
 
 Beautreillis. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Beauveau, place .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 Beaux-Arts, ecole des . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 Beaux-Arts, des .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 Beccaria, de. 
 
 
 12 
 
 Beethoven. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Bel-Air, avenue du . . . 
 
 
 
 Belidor (anc. R. des Mon- 
 tagnes Ternes) .... 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 Belle-Chasse, de .... 
 
 
 Bellay, de. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Bellefond. 
 
 8 
 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 323 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Belleville.1 
 
 2 
 
 Itois, du (Charonne) . . . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 — , boulevart de . . . 1 
 
 1 
 
 Boissiere. 
 
 
 
 
 Bellevue, de (Belleville) . 1 
 
 4 
 
 Boissy-d’Anglas. 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Bellievre. 
 
 . 11 
 
 Bon, Saint-. 
 
 
 
 
 Bel-Respiro, du .... 
 
 
 Bonaparte, lycde .... 
 
 
 
 
 Belzunce. 
 
 3 
 
 Bonaparte. 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Benard (Batignolles) . . . 
 
 ) 
 
 Bondy, de. 
 
 
 
 
 — (Montrouge). 
 
 
 Bonne-Grainc, passage de la 
 
 
 r. 
 
 
 Benoit, St-. 
 
 9 
 
 Bonne - Nouvclle, boulevart 
 
 
 
 
 Beranger . 
 
 6 
 
 Bons-Enfants, des .... 
 
 
 
 
 Bercy, boulevart de . . . 
 
 . 12 
 
 Bordeaux, de. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 —, pout, de. 
 
 . 12 
 
 Borrdgo, du. 
 
 IS 
 
 
 
 —, porte de. 
 
 . 13 
 
 Bosquet, avenue .... 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 —, quai de. 
 
 . 11 
 
 Bossuet, de. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Bercy, de . 
 
 . 12 
 
 Bouchardon . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Berger. 
 
 i 
 
 Boucher . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Bergere, cite.7 
 
 
 BOucherie-des-Inval., de la 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Bergere . 7 
 
 
 Bouchet, impasse .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Be'rite, de . 
 
 G 
 
 Boudreau . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Berlin, de . 6 
 
 
 Boulies Parisiens .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Bernard, impasse St- 
 
 12 
 
 Boufflers, cite. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, passage St-. 
 
 12 
 
 Boulangers, des .... 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 — , quai St-. 
 
 . 10 
 
 Bou lard. 
 
 
 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 12 
 
 Boule. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Bernardins, des. 
 
 8 
 
 Bou lets, des. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Bernouilly . G 
 
 
 Boulevart. du. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Berry, de .£ 
 
 
 Boulogne, de. 
 
 (i 
 
 
 
 Berryer, cite . 
 
 5 
 
 IJouloi, du. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Berthaud, impasse .... 
 
 9 
 
 Bouquet-de-Longcliam p , du 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Berthe .s 
 
 
 Bourbon, quai. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Bertliollet . 
 
 
 Bourbon, passage .... 
 
 
 
 l 
 
 Berlin-Poir^e . 
 
 7 
 
 Bourdon, boulevart . . . 
 
 
 lb 
 
 
 Bertrand, cite . 
 
 u 
 
 Bourdonnais, des .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Beslay, impasse ..... 
 
 ii 
 
 Bou ret . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Betliune, quai de. 
 
 1U 
 
 Bourgogne, de. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Beudant.4 
 
 
 Bourgogne, de (Bercv) . . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Beuret . 
 
 
 Boursault. 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Bibliotheque Nationale . 7 
 
 
 Boursault (Batignolles) . . 
 
 (i 
 
 
 
 — Sainte-Genevieve . . 
 
 . 8 
 
 Bourse, palais de la . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 •Bichat . 9 
 
 
 Bourse, place de la . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Bienfaisance, de la . . . G 
 
 
 Bourse, de la . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Bievre, de . 
 
 8 
 
 Bourtibourg. 
 
 
 
 
 Billault . 3 
 
 
 Bouvines, avenue de . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Billettes, des . 
 
 9 
 
 Brady, passage. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Billy, quai de . 
 
 1 
 
 Brancion . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Biot .G 
 
 
 Bran to me . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Birague, de. 
 
 10 
 
 Braque, de . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Biscornet . 
 
 12 
 
 Bras-d'Or. cour du . . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Bisson (anc. It. des Montag- 
 
 
 Bre'a, de. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 nes Belleville) .... 2 
 
 
 Breclie - aux - Loups, ruelle 
 
 
 
 
 Bizet . 
 
 1 
 
 de la. 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Blanche.G 
 
 
 Breda. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 —, place.6 
 
 
 Bre'guet (anc. ruelle St.- 
 
 
 
 
 Blancs-Manteaux, des . . 
 
 9 
 
 Sabin). 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Bleue.7 
 
 
 Bremontier. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Blomet. 
 
 
 Bretagne, de. 
 
 
 
 
 Blondel.1) 
 
 
 Breteuil, avenue de . . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 Blottiere . 
 
 . 3 
 
 Breteuil, place de . . . . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Bochard-de-Saron .... 8 
 
 
 Bretonvilliers. 
 
 
 0 
 
 
 BoVeldieu, place .... 7 
 
 
 Brey. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Bois, des (Belleville) . . 14 
 
 1 
 
 Brezin. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 21 * 
 
324 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R.wjr R.W.B. 
 
 Briare, passage. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Cassini. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Briquet. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Castellane, de ..... . 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Brissac, de. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Castex. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Broussais. 
 
 
 
 
 Castiglione, de. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Bruant . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Catherine, Ste-. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Brunei (anc. R. Ste. Marie 
 
 
 
 
 Caumartin. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Ternes). 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Cecile, Ste-. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Bruxelles, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Celestins, caserne des . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Bucherie, de la. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Celestins, quai des . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Buci, de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Cels. 
 
 
 
 
 Bude (anc. R. Guillaume) . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Cendriers, des. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Buffault. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 C'ensier. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Buffon, de. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Centre, du. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Bugeaud, avenue .... 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Centre, du (Charonne) . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Buisson-Saint-Louis, du 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Cerisaie, de la. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Bullier, jardin. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Chabanais. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Butte-Chaumont, de la . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Chabrol. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Buttes, des.• 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 C'haillot, de. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Buttes-Chaumont, Parc des 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Chaise, de la. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Buzelin. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Chalgrin. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Cabanis. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Chaligny. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Cadet. 
 
 '( 
 
 
 
 Chalons, de. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Caii. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Champ - de - PAlcgiette, du 
 
 
 
 
 Caire, passage du .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 (voir Corvisart) .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 —, place du. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Cliamp-d’Asile, du. . . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 —, du. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Champollion (anc. R. des 
 
 
 
 
 Caisse d Epargne, adminis- 
 
 
 
 
 Macons). 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 tration de la. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Champs-de-Mars, le . . . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Calais, de (Ciichy) . . . 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 —, gare du. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 —, de (Belleville) . . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 —. du. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Champagne, de (Halle aux 
 
 
 
 
 < ambacdres. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Yins). 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Cambronne, place .... 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Champ, des. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Cambronne. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Champs -Elvsees, aven. des 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Camou. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 —, Rond-Point des . . . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Campagne-Premiere . . . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 Chanaleilles. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Campo-Formio, de. . . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Change, pont au . . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Canal-Saint-Martin, du . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Chanoinesse. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Canettes, des. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Cliantier, passage du . . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Capucines, boulevart des . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Chapelle expiatoire . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Cardinal Fesch (voir de 
 
 
 
 
 Chapelle, boulevart de la . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Chateaudun). 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Chapelle, cite de la . . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Cardinal-Lemoine, du . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Chapelle, place de la . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Cardinet. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Chapon 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Carlier, impasse .... 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Cliaptal. 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Carmelites, chapelle des 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Chaptal, colle'ge .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Carmes, couvent des . . . 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Charbonniere, de la . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Carmes, des. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Charbonniers - St - Antoine, 
 
 
 
 
 Carnot . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 des. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Caroline, passage .... 
 
 (j 
 
 
 
 Charenton, porte de . . . 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Caroline (Batignolles) . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Cliarenton, de. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Carpentier. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Charite, hopital de la . . 
 
 
 0 
 
 
 Carriere, de la. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Charlemagne, lycee . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Carrieres, chemin des . . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Charlemagne. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Carrieres, des. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Charles, St-. 
 
 
 
 
 Carrousel, place du . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Charles, passage St- . . . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Carrousel, pont du . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Charles V. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Cascades, des . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Chariot. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Casimir-Delavigne .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Cliarolais, du. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 ( asimir-Pdrier. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Charonne, boulevart de . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Cassette. 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Charonne, de. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
IN THE PLAN 
 
 325 
 
 R.w.b. r.w.b. 
 
 Charonne , de (Belleville) 
 
 
 
 
 Clichy, place de .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 (voir Pelleport) .... 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 — , anc. prison pour dettes 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Chartiere ...... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Clignancourt, de .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Chartres, de (La Chapelle) 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Clinique de la Faculte de 
 
 
 
 
 Chateaubriand, de ... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Medecine. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chatcau-d’Eau, le . . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Clisson. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Chateau-d'Eau, du ... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Cloitre-Notre-I)ame, du . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chateaudun, de (anc. Rue 
 
 
 
 
 Clotaire . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Cardinal Fesch) .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Clotilde. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Chateau-Landon, de . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 — , eglise Sainte- 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Chateau du Maine . . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Clovis, de . *. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Cliatelet, place du. . . . 
 
 
 '( 
 
 
 —, impasse . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Chaudron. 
 
 lb 
 
 
 
 Cluny, hotel de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chaufourniers, des . . . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Cochin, hospice .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Chaume, du . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Coeur-de-Vey, impasse . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Chauss^e-d'Antin, de la. . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Colbert. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Chaussee-du - Maine, de la 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 Colignv. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Chausson, passage . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Colisee, du . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Cliauveau-Lagarde .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 College de France .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chauvelot, . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Colombe, de la . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chazelle . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Colonne de Juillet. . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chemin-de-Fer, du . . . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 — Vendome. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Chemin-Vert, du . . . . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Combes . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Chene-Vert, cour du . . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Coinete. de la. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Cherche-Midi, du . . . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Commandeur, avenue du . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Chcrroy . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Commerce, cour du . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Cheval-Blanc, passage du . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 —, cour du. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Chevaliers, impasse des 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 —, place du (anc. place 
 
 
 
 
 Chevert. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 de la Mairie) .... 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Clievreuse . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 — , du (Berev), voir de la 
 
 
 
 
 Chine, de la . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Nativite. 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Choiseul, passage .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, du (Grenelle) . . . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Choiseul, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 — , Tribunal de . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Choisy, avenue de . . . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Commines. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Chopinette, de la . . . . 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 Compans. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Chretien, impasse .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Compiegne, de. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Christiani . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Comptes, cour des . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Christine (Passy), voir Leo- 
 
 
 
 
 Concorde, place de la . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 nard de Vinci .... 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 —, pont de la .... 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Christine . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Concte. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Christophe Colomb . . . 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 Condorcet . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Cimarosa . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Conference, quai de la . . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Cimetiere-St-Benoil. du . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Conseil d'Etat. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Cirque d’Kte . 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 Conservatoire des Arts et. 
 
 
 
 
 — d'Hiver. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Metiers. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Cirque, du . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Conservatoire de Musique . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Cit4, de la. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Conservatoire, du .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, lie de la. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Constantine, pont de . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Citeaux. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 — , de . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Clapeyron . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 —, de (Belleville) . . . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Clary . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 —, de (Plaisance) . . . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Claude-Marais, St- . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Constantinople, de ... 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 - Vellefaux . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Conti, quai de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Clauzel . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Contrcscarpe, boulevart . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Clavel. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Copenhague, de .... 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Clef, de la . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Copernic . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Clement . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Copreau . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Cler . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Coq-Heron. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Cldry, de . • . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Coquilliere. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Clicliy, boulevart de . . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Corbeau . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Corbineau. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
LIST OF NAMES 
 
 326 
 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 Cordelieres, des .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Debelleyme. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Cordiers, des. 
 
 
 b 
 
 
 Ddchargeurs, des .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Corneille, lycee (anc. Lycee 
 
 
 
 
 Deeres. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Napoleon). 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Dclaborde, place .... 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Comes, des. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Delaitre. 
 
 IS 
 
 
 
 Corps ljfgislatif, palais du 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 De la mb re. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Corvisart (anc. R. du Champ 
 
 
 
 
 Delamichodiere. 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 dc l'Alonette). 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Delessert, avenue , . . . 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 Cossonnerie, de la. . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Delorme, passage .... 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Co ten tin. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Delta, du. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Cotte, de. 
 
 
 lb' 
 
 
 Demours. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Couesnon. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Denain, boulevart .... 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Courcelles, boulevart de 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Denis, boulevart Saint- . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 —, de (les Ternes) . . . 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 — , porte Saint- .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Couronnes, des (Belleville) 
 
 ii 
 
 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Cours la Reine. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Denis-St-Antoine, St-. . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Courty, de. 
 
 
 
 
 Denis-du-St-Sacrement, 
 
 
 
 
 Coutellerie, de la . . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 eglise Saint-. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Coutures-Saint-Gervais . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Denis, du Faubourg-St- . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Coypel. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Ddpart, du. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Departement, du . . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Crillon, de. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Deprez. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Crimee, de. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Desaix, quai. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Croissant, du. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Desaix. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Croix, de la (Bercy), voir 
 
 
 
 
 Descartes. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Fecamp. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Descartes, lycee (anc. Lvcee 
 
 
 
 
 Oroix-Boissierc. de la . . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Louis-le-Grand) .... 
 
 - 
 
 8 
 
 
 C r o i x- d e-1 a - B r e to n n e ry, S tc 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Descombes. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Croix-Nivert. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 De Seze. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Croix-Rouge, carrefour de la 
 
 
 b 
 
 
 Desgenettes. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Croix-du-Roule, de la (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Desir, passage du . . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Daru). 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Ddsirde. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Croulebai-be, de. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Desnouettes. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Crozatier. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Desrenaudes. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Crussol, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Deux-Ecus, des .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Cu.jas. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 — -Moulins, des (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Culture-Ste-Catherinc (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Jenner). 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Sevignd) . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 -Ponts, des .... 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Cure, de la. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 -Portes-St-Sauveur, d. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 -Portes-St-Jean, des . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Cygne, du. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 -Soeurs, pass, des . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Cygnes, allee des .... 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Dcvillas, hospice .... 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Daguerre. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Dhuis, de la. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Dames, des (Batignolles) . 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Didier, Saint-. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Dames, des (Ternes), voir 
 
 
 
 
 Docks-Napoleon .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Poncelet. 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 Domat. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Dames - St-Michel. convent 
 
 
 
 
 Dombasle. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 des. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Dome, du. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Dames-St-Thomas, convent 
 
 
 
 
 Dominique, pass. St-. . . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 des. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 —, St-.. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Daneourt (anc. R. du Thea- 
 
 
 
 
 Domremy. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 t.re Montmartre) . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Dord, citd. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Dany, impasse. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Douai, de. 
 
 B 
 
 
 
 Dareau. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Douane. de la. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Daru (anc.R.Croix du Roule) 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 —, hotel de la . . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Daubenton. 
 
 
 
 1(1 
 
 Doubles, Pont-aux .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Daumesnil, avenue . . . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Dragon, du . . . . . 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Dauphin, du . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Droit, dcole de. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Dauphine, place .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Drouot. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Dauphine . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Dubail, passage. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Daval. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Dubois, impasse .... 
 
 11 
 
 
 
IN THE PLAN. 327 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Dubois, passage- .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Embarcadere de POiiest, rive 
 
 
 
 
 Ducouedic. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 ga -1 e. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Dugommier. 
 
 Duguay-Trouin. 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 — de Strasbourg . . . 
 
 — de Vincennes.... 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 
 Duguesclin. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Emeriau. 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 Dulac, passage. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Empereur, avenue de 1 . . 
 
 Enfant-Jesus, imp. de P 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 Dulong. 
 
 Dumeril. 
 
 •i 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Enfants - Malades, hop. ches 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Dumont-d’Urville .... 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 - Trouves, hospice des 
 
 Enter, boulevart d’ . . . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Dunkerque, de. 
 
 10 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Dunois. 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, place d 1 . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Duperrd . 
 
 
 
 —, d’. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Dupetit-Thouars .... 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 
 Enghien, d 1 . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Du phot . 
 
 6 
 
 
 —, hospice. 
 
 9 
 
 
 14 
 
 Dupin . 
 
 
 
 Entrepot, de V . 
 
 
 
 Dupleix, place. 
 
 
 ■J 
 
 
 Entrepreneurs, des . . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 2 
 
 Dupleix. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Envierges, passage des . . 
 
 
 
 Dupleix, ruelle. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Epee-de-Bois, de 1' ... 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Dupont . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Eperon, de 1. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Dupuis . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Erard. 
 
 13 
 
 
 12 
 
 Dupuytren. 
 
 Duquesne, avenue.... 
 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 
 Ermitage, de 1’. 
 
 Esprit, sdminaire Saint- 
 
 
 8 
 
 Duranti . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Esquirol. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Duras, de. 
 
 Duret. 
 
 Duris. 
 
 a 
 
 i 
 
 13 
 
 
 Essling, avenue d' ... 
 Estrapade, place de P . . 
 
 Estrees, d’. 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 Du roc. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Etat-Major de la Place . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Du Sommerard (anc. R. des 
 
 
 
 
 Etat-Major, ecole d 1 . . . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Mathurins St. Jacques) . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Etienne, eglise Saint- . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Du lot. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 - Bonne-Nouvelle, St- . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Duvivier. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Etoile, place de P . . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Eaux, passage des .... 
 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 — , impasse de P ... 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 
 Eaux-de-vie, entrepot des . 
 
 
 
 —, place de P .... 
 
 
 
 Ebld. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 — -d Or, impasse de P 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Echaudd-St-Germain , de P 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Eugene, e'glise Saint- 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Echelle, de 1. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Eugenie, avenue Ste-. . . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Echiquier, de P .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, lidpital Ste- .... 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Ecluses-Saint-Martin, des . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 —, impasse Ste- . . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Ecole, impasse de r . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Euler. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Ecole-de-Mddecine, de P 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Eupatoria, d 1 . 
 
 
 
 
 Ecole Jlilitaire. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Europe, place de P . . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 — -Polytechnique, de P . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Eust.ache, e'glise Saint- . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Ecolcs, des. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, place St-. 
 
 Eveque, de P. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 EcoufTes, des. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ecuries nationales . . . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Eylau, avenue d’ . . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Ecuries d’Artois, des . . . 
 
 Eglise, de P (Grenelle) . . 
 
 3 
 
 
 2 
 
 —, place d’. 
 
 Fabert. 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 Eglisc, place de 1’ . . . . 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Fagon. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Egout, passage de 1' . . . 
 
 
 (i 
 
 
 Fargeau, St-. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Elisabeth, eglise Sainte- . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Fauconnier. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Eloi, dglise Saint- .... 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 F a vart. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Elysde, de P . 
 
 —, palais de P . . . . 
 
 Elysce - des - Beaux - Arts, 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Favorites, passage des . . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Fecamp (anc. R. de la Croix 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bercy). 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 passage de P. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Felicitd, de la. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Elzdvier (anc. R. des Trois 
 
 
 
 
 Femmes-Incurables, lidpital 
 
 
 
 
 Pavilions). 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 des. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Embarcadere de Lyon . . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Fenelon. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 — du Nord. 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 Fenoux. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 — d'Orleans. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Fer-a-Moulin. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 — de l'Ouest, rive droile 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Ferdinand, place St- . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
328 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Fevdinandville, cite (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Franklin,. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Place St. Ferdinand) . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Fremicourt. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Fermat. 
 
 2 
 
 
 5 
 
 Frequel, passage .... 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Ferme-de-Grenelle, tie la . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Freycinet. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Ferme-des-Manthurins, de la 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Fried land, avenue .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Ferou. 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Frocliot ....... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Ferronnerie, de la.... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Froissart.. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Fessart. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Fulton. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 — , impasse. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Gabriel, avenue. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Fetes, place des . • . . 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Gaillard, cite. 
 
 (i 
 
 
 
 Feuillantines, des .... 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Gaillard, passage .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Feuillet, passage .... 
 
 It) 
 
 
 
 Gtaillon. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Feydeau . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Gaite, de la. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Fiacre, passage SI ... 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Galande. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 — , St-. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Galilde. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Fiddlite, de la. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Gallois, de. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Figuier, du. 
 
 
 1( 
 
 
 Galvani. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Filles-du-Calvaire, boulev. 
 
 
 
 
 Gambey ■. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 des. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Garanciere. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Filles-du*Calvaire, des . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Gare, boulevart de la . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Filles-Dieu, des. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, de la. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Filles-Saint-Thomas, des . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, quai de la .... 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Finances, ministerc des 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Gaudelet, impasse .... 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Flandre, de. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Gay-Lussac. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Fleurus, de. 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 Gaz, du. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Florence de (Buttes-Chau- 
 
 
 
 
 Geoffroy-Didelot, passage . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 mont). 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Genevieve, college Sainte- . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 —, de (Elysde) .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Genie, du. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Florentin, St-. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Genty. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Foin-au-Marais, du . . . 
 
 
 £ 
 
 
 Geoffroy-Saint-Ililaire 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Folie-Mdricourt. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Geoffroy-Langevin .... 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Folie-Regnault. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Geoffroy-Lasnier .... 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Fondary (Vaugirard) . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Geoffroy-Marie. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Fontaine du But, de la . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Georama, du. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Fontaine-St-Georges . . . 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Georges, place St- . . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Fontaine-au-Roi .... 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Georges, St-. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Fontaines, des. 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 Gerard . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Fontarabie, de. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Gerbert. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Fontenoy, place. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Gerbier. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Forge-Rovale, pas. de la 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Gerbillon. 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 Fortifications, depot des 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Germain, boulevart St- . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Fortin. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 —, marche Saint- . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Fosse's-St-Bernard, des . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 -FAuxerrois, dglise 
 
 
 
 
 -St-Jacques, des. . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Saint-. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 — -St-Marcel, des . . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 — -'Auxerrois, St- . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 — -St-Martin, des . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 -des-Prds, dglise Saint- 
 
 
 0 
 
 
 -du-Temple, des. . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Gerson. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 -St-Victor, des . . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Gervais, dglise Saint- . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Fouarre, du. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Four-St-Germain, du . . . 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 —, le Pre Saint- . . . 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Fourcy-St-Antoine, de . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Gevres, quai de .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Fourneaux, des . 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Gilles, St-. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Fourneaux, passage des 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Ginoux . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Fournial. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Git-le-Coeur. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 France, colldge de. . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Glaciere, de la. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Francois I er . 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 
 —, de la (Gentilly) . . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 —, maison de .... 
 
 
 
 
 Gobelins, avenue des ' . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 —, place. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Gobelins, manufacture des 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Franyois-Miron. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Gobelins, des. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Francois-Xavier, egl. Saint- 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Godefroy. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Francs-Bourgeois, des . . 
 
 • 
 
 9 
 
 
 Godot-de-JIauroy .... 
 
 5l 
 
 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 329 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Gomboust. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Harpe, de la. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Goutte-d’Or, passage de la . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Harvey . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Gouvion St-Cyr, boulevart . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Hasard, du. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Gozlin. 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Hassard. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Gracieuse, passage . . . 
 
 
 
 
 llaussmann, boulevart (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Grammont, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 G 
 
 Victor Hugo). 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Grand Chantier, du . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Ilautefeuille. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Grand-Hotel. 
 
 5 
 
 
 8 
 
 Ilauteville. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Grand-Saint-Michel, du (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Iiautpoul, d 1 . 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 du Ten-age). 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Hautes-Gatines, des . . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Grand-Prieure', du . . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 — -Vignolles, des . . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Grande-Armde, aven. de la 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Havre, galerie du . . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Grande-Chaumiere, de la . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 —, du (Batignolles), voir 
 
 
 
 
 Grande-Truanderie, de la . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Pouillet. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Grands-Augustins, quai des 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, du. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Grands-Augustins, des . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Ilaxo . 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Grange-Bateliere, de la . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Hebrards, ruelle des . . . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Grange-aux-Belles, de la 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Helder, du. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Gravilliers, des . 
 
 
 
 
 Ildldne. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Gregoire-de-Tours .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Henri-Chevreau. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Grenelle, boulevart de . . 
 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 Henri IV., quai .... 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, gare de. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 He'ricart. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 -Gros-Caillou, pass, de 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Herr. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 - Saint-Germain, de . . 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Hilaire, St-. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 - Saint-Honore, de . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Hippodrome. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Grenelle, quai de . . . . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Hippolyte, St-. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Grdnetat (anc. R. Beaure- 
 
 
 
 
 Homme-Arme, de V . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 paire) . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Honore, marelic Saint- . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Grenier-Saint-Lazare . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, Saint-. 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 
 Gretry . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, du FaubourgrSt- . . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Greuze. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Ilonord-Chevalier .... 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Greve, quaide la (voir Quai 
 
 
 
 
 Hdpital, boulevart de V 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 de l'Hotel de Vi lie) . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Hdpital militaire .... 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Griset, cit.d. 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 Hopital-St-Louis, de V . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Groult d’Arcy (voir Abbe 
 
 
 
 
 Horloge, quai de V . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Groult). 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Hdtel-Colbert, de 1’ . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Guemend, impasse . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Hotel-Dieu . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Guendgaud. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Hotel du Louvre .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Guerre, ddpdt de . . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Hotel-de-Ville . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, ministere de la . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 - de-Ville, place de V . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Guillaume (voir Budd) . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 - de Ville , quai de 1 
 
 
 
 
 —, cour St-. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 (anc. quai de la Greve) 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 - de-Ville. de V . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Guilleminot.. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 - de-Ville-Batignolles (v. 
 
 
 
 
 Guisarde . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Rue des Batignolles) . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Guy-Patin. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Houdard .. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Guy-de-la-Brosse .... 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 Houdon . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Guyot . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Huchette, de la .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Haies, des . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Humboldt . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Haldvy . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Hyacinthe-St Ilonord, St- . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Halle. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Iena, avenue d’ .... 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 Halle au bid . 
 
 
 
 
 —, pont d 1 . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Halle aux vins . 
 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 —, d 1 . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Ilalle-aux-Veaux, place . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Immaculee Conceptiou, Col- 
 
 
 
 
 Halles centrales .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 lege de F . 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 Ilamboura, de . 
 
 l) 
 
 
 
 Imperatrice, avenue de V 
 
 
 
 
 Hameau, du . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 (voir Av. Uhrich) . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Hamelin . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Imperatrice, de V (v. Rue 
 
 
 
 
 ITanovre, de. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 de la Republique) . . . 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 
 Harlay-du-Palais, de . * . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Impdratrice, cirque de L, 
 
 
 
 
 -au-Marais, de . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 voir Cirque d'Etd . . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
330 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 Imprimerie nationale . . 
 
 
 0 
 
 
 Joquelet. 
 
 7 
 
 
 IncurablesFemmes, hosp.des 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Joseph, chapelle Saint- . . 
 
 11 
 
 
 — Hommes, hospice des 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 — St-. 
 
 
 
 Industrie, pass, de P . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Josephine, avenue .... 
 
 1 
 
 
 — . passage de V (Grenelle) 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 •loubert. 
 
 5 
 
 
 — , place de V .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Jouffroy. 
 
 4 
 
 
 Institut, palais et place 
 
 
 
 
 —, passage. 
 
 7 
 
 
 de T. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Jour, du '. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Instruction publique, mi- 
 
 
 
 
 Jouy, de.- 
 
 
 10 
 
 nistere de l 1 . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 •luge. 
 
 
 2 
 
 Intendance militaire . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Juifs, des. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Interieur, ministere de V . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Juigne. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Invalides, boulevart des 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Juillet. 
 
 i3 
 
 
 —, dome des. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Jules-Cesar. 
 
 
 12 
 
 — , esplanade des . . . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Julien-Lacroix. 
 
 12 
 
 
 —, hotel des. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Julienne. 
 
 
 
 —, pont des. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Jussienne, de la .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 Irenee, St-. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Jussieu, place. 
 
 
 
 Irlandais, des. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 Isly, passage d’(Popincourt) 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Justice, ministere de la . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 d’. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 —, palais de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Issy, porte d’ . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Kabylie, de. 
 
 10 
 
 
 jtalie, boulevart d 1 . . . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Keller. 
 
 
 12 
 
 — , place d 1 (voir Pinel) . 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 Keppler. 
 
 1 
 
 
 —, avenue d’. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Kleber. 
 
 
 2 
 
 Italiens, boulevart des . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Kussner, passage .... 
 
 11 
 
 
 Jacob. 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 Labie. 
 
 2 
 
 
 Jacques, boulevart St- . . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Laborde, march e .... 
 
 4 
 
 
 —, place St-. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Labourdonnaie, avenub . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 
 Labruyere, de . 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, du Faubourg St- . . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Lacepede, de. 
 
 
 
 Jacques - de - la - Bouclierie, 
 
 
 
 
 Lacuee, avenue . 
 
 
 12 
 
 Tour Saint- .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Lafayette, place de . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Jacques-Coeur. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Jardin-des-Plantes .... 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Laferriere, passage . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Jardinet, du. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Laffitte. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Jardiniers, des. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Lagny, de . 
 
 
 14 
 
 —, ruelle des .... 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Lahire. 
 
 
 
 Jardins, des. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Lalande. 
 
 
 
 Jarente, de. 
 
 
 
 
 Lallier. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Javel, de. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Lamare. 
 
 2 
 
 
 Jean-Baptiste, eglise St- 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Lamartine. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Jean-Bart. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Lambert, eglise St- . . . 
 
 
 
 Jean-Beausire. 
 
 
 1U 
 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 
 Jean-de-Beauvais .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Lamothe-Piquet, avenue de 
 
 
 4 
 
 Jean-Goujon. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Lancette, de la. 
 
 
 
 Jean-Jacques-Rousseau . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Lancry, de. 
 
 9 
 
 
 Jean-Lantier. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Languedoc, du . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Jeanne . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Lapirouse . 
 
 1 
 
 
 Jeanne-d’Arc . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Laplace. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Jeanne-d'Arc, place . . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Lappe (anc. R. Louis Phi- 
 
 
 
 Jemmappes, quai .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 lippe). 
 
 
 
 Jenner (anc. It. des Deux- 
 
 
 
 
 La Quintinie. 
 
 
 
 Moulins). 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Lariboissiere, liopital . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 Jessaint . 
 
 1U 
 
 
 
 Laroche. 
 
 
 
 Jeunes - Avcugles, liopital 
 
 
 
 
 La Rochefoucauld , hospice 
 
 
 
 des. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 —, de (Montrouge) voir 
 
 
 
 Jeunes-Detenus, prison des 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 de Liancourt .... 
 
 
 
 Jeuneurs, des. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 — , de . .. 
 
 6 
 
 
 Joinville, passage .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Larrey. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Jolivet. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Las Cases. 
 
 
 5 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 331 
 
 K.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Lathuile, passage .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Linne . 
 
 
 
 Latour d'Auvergne, de . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Linois. 
 
 
 2 
 
 Latour - Maubourg, boulev. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Lions-Saint-Paul, des . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Laugier. 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 Lisbonne, de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 Laumiere, avenue .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Lobau, place . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Laurent, St-. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Lobineau . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Lauriston . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Loire, quai de la . . . . 
 
 12 
 
 
 Lauzin, de . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Lombards, des. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Laval *. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Londres, cite' de .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 Lavandieres, des .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 (i 
 
 
 Lavieuville (anc. R. de la 
 
 
 
 
 Longchamp. de . 
 
 
 i 
 
 Mairie) . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Lord-Bvron . 
 
 1 
 
 
 Lavoisier . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Louis, e'glise St- .... 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 La Vrilliere, de .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, lidpital Saint- . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 I.azare, prison St- .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 —, lie Saint-. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Lazare, St- . 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Louis, lvcee St- .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 Lazaristes, couvent. des . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Louis, pass. St- .... 
 
 13 
 
 
 Lebon . 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 Louis, pont St-. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Lebouis. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Louis, St- (Bercv) .... 
 
 
 
 Lebouteux. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Louis, St- (Crenelle), v. 
 
 
 
 Lebrun . 
 
 
 
 
 St. Charles. 
 
 
 2 
 
 Leclerc. 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Louis, St- (Plaisance), v. des 
 
 
 
 Lecluse . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Croisades. 
 
 
 
 Lecourbe . 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 Louis-en Tile, St- .... 
 
 
 10 
 
 Lefebvre, boulevart . . . 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 Louis-le-Grand, lycee, v. 
 
 
 
 Legendre . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Descartes. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Legraverend . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Louis-le-Grand. 
 
 
 
 Leraaire, passage .... 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Louis-Philippe, pont . 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 Lemoine, passage .... 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Louis Philippe (voir Lappe) 
 
 
 10 
 
 Leonard de Vinci (anc. R. 
 
 
 
 
 Lourcine, hopital dc . 
 
 
 
 Christine Passy) . . . 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 
 
 Leonidas, passage .... 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Lourmel. 
 
 
 2 
 
 Ldonie ........ 
 
 (i 
 
 
 
 Louvain, de (Belleville) . . 
 
 
 
 — (Montmartre), voir des 
 
 
 
 
 — , de (les Ternes) . . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 Trois Freres .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Louvois, place. 
 
 2 
 
 
 — , villa Ste- . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Louvois, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Leopold . 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Louvre, palais du . . . 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 Lepage, passage .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 —, place du. 
 
 
 i 
 
 Le Peletier . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 — , quai du. 
 
 
 t 
 
 —, quai (voir Quai de 
 
 
 
 
 —, du. 
 
 
 i 
 
 Gevres). 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 LowendaL avenue de . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 Lepeu . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Lubeck, de . 
 
 
 1 
 
 Lepic. 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 Lucie, Ste-. 
 
 
 
 Leprince, hospice .... 
 
 
 
 
 Lune, de la. 
 
 
 
 Le Regrattier . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Luxembourg, avenue du 
 
 7 
 
 
 Leroux. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 —, jardin du . 
 
 
 
 Lesage . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 —, palais du. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Lesdiguieres. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 
 
 Lesueur . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 —, Petit. 
 
 b 
 
 8 
 
 Letellier . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Lyon, de . 
 
 
 
 Leu, eglise St-. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Lyonnais, des. 
 
 
 
 Levert, passage. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Mabille, jardin . 
 
 
 
 Levis, de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Mabillon . 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 Levisse. 
 
 8 
 
 
 li 
 
 Macon, de. 
 
 
 
 Lhomond. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Macons, des (voir Cham- 
 
 
 
 Liancourt, de (anc. R. La 
 
 
 
 
 pollion). 
 
 
 8 
 
 Rochefoucauld Montrouge) 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Madame, de, Charonne, 
 
 
 
 Libert. 
 
 
 
 
 (voir des Orteaux) . . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 Lilas, des. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Madeleine, boulevard de la 
 
 5 
 
 
 — , ruelle des. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 —, dglise de la . . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 Lille, de. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 —, place de la . . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
332 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 Madelonnettes, prison des . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Marie-Thdrese, liospice . . 
 
 
 
 Mademoiselle. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Marignan, de. 
 
 3 
 
 
 Madrid, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Marigny, avenue .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 Magdebourg, de. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Marine, ministere de la . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 Magellan. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Marivanx, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Magenta, boulevart de . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Marmontel. 
 
 
 
 — , de (voir Montbrun) . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Maronites, des. 
 
 11 
 
 
 Magloire, St-. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Marqfoy. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Maenan . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Marseile, de. 
 
 9 
 
 
 Mail, du. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Martell. 
 
 9 
 
 
 Maillot, porte. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Martignac. 
 
 
 5 
 
 Main-d’Or, passage de la . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Martin. 
 
 10 
 
 
 Maine, avenue du . . . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 —, impasse du . . . . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 —, boulevart St- . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, place du. 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 —, canal Saint-. . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 Maine, de la (voir Lavieu- 
 
 
 
 
 —, eglise Saint-.... 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 ville). 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 —, porte Saint- .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, place de la (voir du 
 
 
 
 
 —, du Faubourg-St- . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 Commerce) .... 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Martyrs, des. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Maison-Dieu. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Masseran. 
 
 
 4 
 
 Maitre-Albert. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Maternite, hospice de la 
 
 
 
 Malakoff, avenue de . . . 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 Mathurins-St-Jacques, des 
 
 
 
 Malaquais, quai .... 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 (voir. Du Sommerard) 
 
 
 8 
 
 Malar. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Matignon, avenue .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 Malebranche. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Matignon. 
 
 3 
 
 
 Malesherbes, boulevart . . 
 
 t> 
 
 
 
 Maubert, place. 
 
 
 8 
 
 —, cite . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Maubeuge, de. 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, place de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Maublanc. 
 
 
 
 Mallier. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Mauconseil. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Malte, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Maur, cite Saint- .... 
 
 
 ii 
 
 Mandar. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, cour St-. 
 
 11 
 
 
 Mandd, avenue St- . . . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 11 
 
 a 
 
 Mansart. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 -St-Germain, St-, voir 
 
 
 
 Maiiutention, de la ... 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 des Missions .... 
 
 
 6 
 
 Marais, des. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Maure, du. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Marbeuf, avenue .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Maurice, passage .... 
 
 
 11 
 
 Marbeuf. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Maurice-Meyer. 
 
 
 
 Marc, St-. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Mayet. 
 
 
 
 Marceau. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Mayran. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Marcel, boulevart St- . . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Mazagran (Plaisance) . . 
 
 
 
 —, chapelle Saint- . . . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Mazagran. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Marces, impasse .... 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 Mazarine. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Marche, du. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Mazas, boulevart .... 
 
 
 14 
 
 -d’Aguesseau, du (voir 
 
 
 
 
 —, place. 
 
 
 
 Montalivet) .... 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 —r, prison. 
 
 
 
 -aux-Clievaux, av. du 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Meaux, de. 
 
 12 
 
 
 - Saint-Honore, du . . 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 
 Mechain. 
 
 
 
 - Xeuf, quai du . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Medard, dglise Saint . . . 
 
 
 
 — des Patriarcbes, pass, du 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 
 Mare, de la. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Med^ah . 
 
 
 
 Marguerite, eglise Sainte . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Mddecine, Ecole de . . . 
 
 
 G 
 
 Marguerite-St-Antoine, Ste- 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Medicis, de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Marie, Ste- (Ternes), voir 
 
 
 
 
 Megisserie, quai de la . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 Brunei. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Menages, hospice des . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 —, Ste- (Grenelle) . . . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Menars, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 - St-Antoine, cour Ste- 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Menilmontant. 
 
 13 
 
 
 - St-Antoine, pass. Ste- 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 —, boulev. de .... 
 
 
 13 
 
 — -du Temple, pass. Ste- 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 —, passage. 
 
 
 11 
 
 Marie, pont. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, rue. 
 
 13 
 
 
 Marie-Antoinette .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Mercier. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Marie-Stuart. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Merlin . . *. 
 
 
 u 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 333 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Merry, dglise Saint- . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Montenotte (anc. R. Plaine 
 
 
 
 
 Meslay . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Terne) . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Mesnil . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Montesquieu. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Messageries Nationales . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Montfaucon. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Messageries, des .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Montgallet . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Messine, avenue de . . . 
 
 ; 
 
 
 
 Montholon. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Metz, de . 
 
 1C 
 
 
 
 Montmartre. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Mexico, de. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 —, boulevart. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Meyerbeer . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 —, cimetiere du . . . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Meynadier. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 —, du Faubourg- . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Mdzieres, de. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Montmorency. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Michel, boulevart St- . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 Montorgueil. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 — , fontaine Saint- . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Mont-Parnasse, boulevart . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 —, place St- . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, cimetiere du ... 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 —, pont St-. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, du. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 — , quai St- . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Montpensier. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Michel-le-Comte. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Mont-de-Piete. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Michodiere, de la . 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 
 Montreuil, de. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Midi, cite du. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Montrouge, boulevart de 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Midi, hopital du .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Montsouris, avenue de . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Mignottes. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Mont-Thabor, du . . . . 
 
 
 
 
 Milan, de . 
 
 (i 
 
 
 
 Montyon. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Mines, ecole des .... 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Morand . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Minimes, des. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Moreau. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Missions, des (anc. R. St- 
 
 
 
 
 Moret . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Maur-St-Germain) . . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Morillons, des . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Missions-Etrangeres, eglise 
 
 
 
 
 —, impasse des .... 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 et seminaire des . . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Morland, boulevart . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Mobilier de la Couronne 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Morny . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Mogador, de . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Moscou, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 —, de (Belleville), voir 
 
 
 
 
 Moselle, de la. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Tlemcen. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Mouiletard. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Moineaux, des . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Moutle, passage .... 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Molay . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Moulin-de-Beurre, du . . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Moliere . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Moulin-de-Pres, du ... 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Monceau (anc. R. Valois du 
 
 
 
 
 Moulin-Vert, du .... 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Roule). 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 Moulin-de-la-Vierge, du . . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Monceau, de. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Moulins, des . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 —, pare de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Mouton-Duvernet .... 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Moncey . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Muette, avenue de la. . . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Mondctour. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Muette, de la. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Monge. 
 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 Mulhouse, passage .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Monjol. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Murillo . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Monnaie, de la . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Murs-de-la-Roquettc, des 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Monnaies, hotel des . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Musard, concerts .... 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 
 Monsieur, de. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Nancy, de . 
 
 
 
 
 Monsieur-le-Prince .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Nanettes, ruelle des . . . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Montagne - Ste - Genevieve, 
 
 
 
 
 Naples, de . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 de la. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Napoleon, cirque, voir Cirque 
 
 
 
 
 Montagnes, des (Les Ternes), 
 
 
 
 
 <V I liver. 
 
 
 
 
 voir Belidor . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 — , cite . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 —, des (Belleville), voir 
 
 
 
 
 — , square (Belleville) 
 
 [ 1 
 
 
 
 Bisson. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Napoldon, lvcee, voir Lycde 
 
 
 
 
 Montaigne, avenue . . . 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 
 Corneille. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Montalivet (anc. R. du 
 
 
 
 
 Napoldon III, pont . . . 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Marche d'Aguesseau) . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 —, place. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Montbrun (anc. R. Magenta 
 
 
 
 
 —, quai. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Montrouge). 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Nationale. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Montebello, quai .... 
 
 
 
 
 Nativite, de la (anc. R. du 
 
 
 
 
 Montempoivre. 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Commerce Bcrcy) . . . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Navarin, de. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
334 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R-W.b. r.w.b. 
 
 Necker, hospice. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Notre Dame de Nazareth . 
 
 9 
 
 
 Nemours, de. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 — des Victoires .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 Ndot.kermes. 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Novers, des. 
 
 11 
 
 
 Neuf, Pont. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Nys, citd. 
 
 11 
 
 
 Neuilly, avenue de . . . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Hys. 
 
 11 
 
 
 Neuve-Saint-Augustin . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Obelisque de Louqsor . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 — , de Berry. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Oberkampf. 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 -des-Bons-Enfants, voir 
 
 
 
 
 (>bserva,toire. 
 
 
 
 Radziwill. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, carrefour de P . . . 
 
 
 
 -Bossuet,. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 —, avenue de P . . . . 
 
 
 
 — -des-Boulets .... 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Octroi, halle de P . . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 — -Bourg-l’Abbe . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Ode'on, carrefour de P . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 — -des-Capucines . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 —, place de 1’ .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 - Sainte-Catherine . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, de P. 
 
 
 8 
 
 — -St-Etienne-du-Mont . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 —, tlidatre de 1’ . . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 - Fenelon. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Odiot, cite. 
 
 3 
 
 
 - Guillemin .... 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Oiseaux, couvent des . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 - de-Lappe, voir des 
 
 
 
 
 Olier. 
 
 
 
 Taillandiers .... 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Olivier-de-Serres .... 
 
 
 
 -des-Martyrs .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Olivet, d’. 
 
 
 G 
 
 -des-Mathurins . . . 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Omer-Talon. 
 
 
 11 
 
 - Saint-Medard . . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Opera, passage de P . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 -Saint-Merry .... 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, place de 1’ .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 — -Pernetty. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, theatre de P . . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 -des-Petits-Champs . . 
 
 b 
 
 7 
 
 
 Opera-Comique, theatre de 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 — St-Roch. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Oratoire- du Louvre, de P . 
 
 
 '< 
 
 — -de-la- Tombe-Isoire 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Orfevres, quai des . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 — -de-PUniversite (v. Pre 
 
 
 
 
 Orillon, de P. 
 
 n 
 
 
 aux Clercs) .... 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Orleans, cite d". 
 
 8 
 
 
 -de-Vanves (v. de 
 
 
 
 
 —, quai d 1 . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Fourneaux) .... 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, avenue d 1 . 
 
 
 
 Nevers, de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, d’ (Bercy) .... 
 
 
 
 Neveux, passage .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 —, d 1 (Villette) .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 Newton. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 —, d 1 (Vaugirard) . . . 
 
 
 
 Nice, de. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Orleans-St-IIonore, d . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 Nicolai'. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Orme, de P. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Nicolas, chapelle Saint- . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 —, impasse de P ... 
 
 
 
 — , cloitre Saint- . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Ormeaux, des (Charonne) 
 
 
 
 —, imp. St-. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 voir Tunis. 
 
 
 14 
 
 Nicolas cPAntin, St- . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Orsay, quai d'. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Nicolas St-Ant.oine, St- . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Orteaux, des *(anc. R. Ma- 
 
 
 
 Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 
 
 
 
 
 dame). 
 
 
 14 
 
 dglise Saint-. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Oseille, de P. 
 
 
 1 
 
 —, port Saint- .... 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Oudinot. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Nicot. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Ouest, de P (Plaisance) . . 
 
 
 
 Niepce . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 , de 1'. 
 
 
 
 Nitot. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Ours, aux. 
 
 
 
 Nollet. 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Pagevin . 
 
 
 7 
 
 Nonains dTIyeres, des . . 
 
 
 iu 
 
 
 l’aillet . 
 
 
 
 Normandie, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Paix, de la. 
 
 b 
 
 
 Notre-Dame, pont .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 —, de la (Batignolles) 
 
 G 
 
 
 Notre-Dame-de-Bercy, dgl. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 — cite de la. 
 
 12 
 
 
 — -des-Champs, eglise . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 Pajol. 
 
 10 
 
 
 -de-la-Gare, eglise . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Palais, boulevart du . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 -de-Lorette, eglise . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Palais-Bourbon, place du . 
 
 
 5 
 
 - de-Nazareth, dglise . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 Palais-Royal. 
 
 
 l 
 
 -de-Paris, Eglise . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Palais-Royal, place du . . 
 
 
 i 
 
 — -de-Sion, eglise . . . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Palatine. 
 
 
 6 
 
 - des-Vietoires, dglise . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Palestro, de. 
 
 
 7 
 
 - des Champs .... 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 
 
 — de Lorette. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Pali-Kao. 
 
 11 
 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 335 
 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 
 R.W.I 
 
 Panoramas, passage des . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Petite-Rue-St-Pierre . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 Panoyaux, des . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Petites-Ecuries, des . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 Pantheon, le. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 -, cour et passage des 
 
 '( 
 
 
 — , place du. 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 Petits-IIdtels, des .... 
 
 10 
 
 
 Papier, passage. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Petrelle. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Papillon. 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 Pharmacie centr. des hopit. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Papin. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Pharmacie, ecole de . . . 
 
 
 
 Paradis, de. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Philippe-Auguste, avenue . 
 
 
 14 
 
 Parc-Royal, du. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Philippe-de-Champagne . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 Paris, de (Batignolles) . . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Philippe-de-Girard .... 
 
 10 
 
 
 — de (Belleville) . . . 
 
 Id 
 
 
 
 Philippe-du-Roule, eglise St- 
 
 3 
 
 
 — de (Charonne) . . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Piat. 
 
 11 
 
 
 Parme, de. 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Picard. 
 
 
 • 
 
 Parmentier. 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 
 Picardie, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 — , avenue. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Piccini . 
 
 1 
 
 
 Parvis-Notre-Dame , pi. du 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Picpus, boulevart .... 
 
 
 • 
 
 Pascal. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 l’icpus. 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 Pasquier. 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 Pierre, impasse Saint . . 
 
 
 11 
 
 Passy, quai de. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Pierre-de-Chaillot, eglise St- 
 
 1 
 
 
 Pastourel. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Pierre, eglise St-, GrosCaillou 
 
 
 3 
 
 Patriarclies, marclie des 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Pierre-du-Temple, pass. St- 
 
 12 
 
 
 Paul, dglise St-. 
 
 
 HI 
 
 
 Pierre-St-Antoine, pass. St- 
 
 
 HI 
 
 , St-. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Pierre, place Saint- . . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Paul Lelong(anc. R. St-Pierre 
 
 
 
 
 Pierre, Villa St- .... 
 
 
 4 
 
 Montmartre). 
 
 'i 
 
 
 
 Pierre-au-Lard. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Pauquet . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Pierre-Lescot. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Pavee-Marais. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Pierre-Levee. 
 
 II 
 
 
 Pavilions, des. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Pierre-Montmartre, voir 
 
 
 
 Payenne . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Paul Lelong. 
 
 7 
 
 
 P^clet. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Pierre-Picard. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Pelagie, dglise Ste- . . . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Pierre-Pop incourt, Saint 
 
 
 11 
 
 Pelee. ruelle. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Pierre-Sarra/.in. 
 
 
 S 
 
 Pelleport (anc. R. Charonne 
 
 
 
 
 Pigalle. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Belleville). 
 
 
 
 
 Pinel . 
 
 
 
 Pelouse, de la. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Pinel, place (anc. place 
 
 
 
 Penthievre, de. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 d’ltalie) . 
 
 
 
 Pe'piniere, caserne de la 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 Pitie, hdpital de la ... 
 
 
 . 
 
 —, de la. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Piver, passage . 
 
 II 
 
 
 —, de la (Montrouge) . . 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 Placide, Saint-. 
 
 
 G 
 
 Perceval . 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 Plaine. de la (Ternes) voir 
 
 
 
 Perche, du. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Montenotte. 
 
 2 
 
 
 Percier, avenue .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 —, de la (Charonne) . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 Perdonnet. 
 
 111 
 
 
 
 Plaisance, porte de . . . 
 
 
 
 Pere-Lacliaise, cimetiere du 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Planchette, ruelle de la . . 
 
 
 
 Pereire, boulevard 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Plantes, chemin des . . . 
 
 
 
 Pergolese . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Plateau, du. 
 
 12 
 
 
 Peres, des Sts- . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Platre-au-Marais. du . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 Perle, de la. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 PI ume t . 
 
 
 
 Pernelle. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Poinsot. 
 
 
 
 Pernetty . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Poiriers, des . 
 
 
 13 
 
 Perree. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Perronet . 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Poissonniere. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Petel. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 —, boulevart. 
 
 
 
 Petersbourg, de St- . . . 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 —, du Faubourg- . . 
 
 s 
 
 
 Petit. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Poissy, de. 
 
 
 in 
 
 Petit-Carreau, du . . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Poitiers, de ..... . 
 
 
 
 Petit-Champ, du .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Poitou, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Petit-Musc, du. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Police, prefecture de . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Petit-Pont-de rilulel-Dieu . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Poliveau, de. 
 
 
 
 Petite-Rue du Banquier, 
 
 
 
 
 Polonceau . 
 
 10 
 
 
 v. Watteau. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Polytechnique, Ecole . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
336 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Pompe, de la. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Quatre Septerabre, du (anc. 
 
 
 
 
 Pompe-a-Feu, pass, de la . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 R. Reaumur). 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Pompeien, palais .... 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Quatre-Vents, des . . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Ponceau, du . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 (Quentin, de St-. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Poncelet (anc. R. des Dames 
 
 
 
 
 Quinault. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Ternes). 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Quincampoix. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Pont-aux-Biehes, du . . . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Quintinie, de la .... 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Pont-au-Choux, du . . . 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 Quinze-Vingts, hospice des 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Pont-Louis-Philippe, du 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, passage des .... 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Pont-Neut', du. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Rabelais. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Pont-Neuf, place du . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Racine. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Ponthieu, de. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Radziwill (anc. K. Neuve des 
 
 
 
 
 Pontoise, de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Bons Enfants) .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Pouts, dcole des .... 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Raguinot, passage .... 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Popincourt . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Rambouillet, de .... 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 —, cite. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Rambuteau, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, marclie. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Rameau. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Port-Mahon, de. 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Rampon. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Port-Royal, boulevart de . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Ramponneau. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Portalis. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Raoul. 
 
 
 
 
 Poitefoin. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Rapee, quai de la . . . . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Porte-St-Martin, marche de 
 
 
 
 
 Rapp, avenue. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 la. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Ratrait., du. 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 
 Postes, administration des 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Rats, des. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Postes, des. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Reaumur. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Pot-de-Fer-Saint-Marcel, du 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Rebeval. 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Poterie-des-Halles, de la 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Recolets, hospice des . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 -St-Martin, de la . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Recollets, des. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Pouillet (anc. R. du Havre 
 
 
 
 
 Re'cullettes, ruelle des . . 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Batignolles). 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Regard, du . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Poules, des. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Reims, de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Poulletier. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Reine, Cours la .... 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Pradier . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Reine-Blanclie, de la . . . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Pre, du. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Reine-Hortense, avenue de 
 
 
 
 
 Prp aux Clercs (anc. R. Reuve 
 
 
 
 
 la. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 de TUniversite) .... 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Rembrandt. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Prefecture de Police . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Renard, passage du . . . 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 Presbourg, de. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Renard-St-Merri, du . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Pressoir, du. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Renard-St-Sauveur, du . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Pretres-Saint-Severin, des . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Rendez-Vous, du . . . . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Prevost, passage .... 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Rennequin . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Prince - Eugene , boulevart 
 
 
 
 
 Rennes, de. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 du , voir Voltaire . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Rdpublique, de la (anc. R. 
 
 
 
 
 Prince-Eugene, place du, 
 
 
 
 
 de Tlmpe'ratrice) . . . 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 
 voir Voltaire. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Reservoirs, des. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Prince-Jerome, avenue du . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Reuilly, de. 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Princesse. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 —, boulevart de ... 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Procession, passage de la . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, carrefour de . . . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Procession, de la . . . . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 —, porte de. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Prony . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Reunion, de la. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Prouvaires, des. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, passage de la . . . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Provence . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, place de la . . . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Pruniers, des ... . . 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Rhin, du. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Puebla, de. 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 
 Richard-Lenoir, boulevart . 
 
 
 ii 
 
 
 Puits-de PErmite^du . . . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Richard-Lenoir. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Puteaux, passage^. . . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Richelieu, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Pyramides, des. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 —, Square, voir Place 
 
 
 
 
 Pyramides, place des. . . 
 
 
 0 
 
 
 Louvois. 
 
 { 
 
 
 
 Quatre-Clicmins, des . . . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Richepance. 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Quatre-Fils, des .... 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Richer. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 — (Charonne) .... 
 
 
 13 
 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 337 
 
 R.W.B. R.W.B. 
 
 Richerand, avenue . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Sabliere, de la. 
 
 
 
 Rigaud . 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Sablonniere, de la . . . . 
 
 
 
 Rigoles, des. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Sablonville, de la . . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 Rimbaut, passage .... 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Sabot, du. 
 
 
 6 
 
 Riverin, cite. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Sacre-Coeur, couvent du 
 
 
 4 
 
 Riviere, ruelle. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Saigon, de. 
 
 i 
 
 
 Rivoli, de. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Saintonge . 
 
 
 9 
 
 Robinau. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Saints-Peres, des . . . . 
 
 
 G 
 
 Roch, eglise Saint- . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Salneuve . 
 
 4 
 
 
 —, St- . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Salomon de Caus .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 Rochechouart. 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 Salpetriere, liopital de la . 
 
 
 
 —, boulevart. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Sandrie, impasse .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 Rocher, du. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Sante, maison municipale de 
 
 10 
 
 
 Rocroi, de. 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 —, de la . 
 
 
 
 Rodier. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 — , impasse de la . . . 
 
 
 
 Roger. 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Saucie-Leroi. 
 
 2 
 
 
 Rohan, cour de .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Saulnier, passage .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, de . . . ... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Saumon, impasse du . . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 Roi-de-Rome, avenue du 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 — , passage du . . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 —, place du. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Saussaies, des. 
 
 3 
 
 
 Roi-de-Sicile, du . . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Saussure . 
 
 4 
 
 
 Rollin. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Sauvage . 
 
 
 
 Rollin, college. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Sauvage, passage .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 Romain, St- . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Sauval . 
 
 
 
 Romainville, de .... 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 Sauveur, St- . 
 
 
 7 
 
 Rome, de . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Savart, passage .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 Ronce, pass . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Savoie, de . 
 
 
 14 
 
 Rondelet. 
 
 « 
 
 
 12 
 
 Saxe, avenue de . . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Roqudpine . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Sav . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Roquette, avenue de la . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Scheffer . 
 
 
 
 —, prison de la . . . . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Schomer . 
 
 
 1 
 
 —, de la. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Scipion, place . 
 
 
 
 Rosier, pass. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Scipion. 
 
 
 
 Rosiere, de la. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Scribe. 
 
 b 
 
 
 Rosiers, des. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Sebastien, impasse St- . . 
 
 
 
 — , ruelle des. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 — , St- . 
 
 
 11 
 
 Rossini. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Sebastopol, de. 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 Rotonde-du-Temple, pi. de 
 
 
 
 
 —, boulevart de . . . . 
 
 
 
 la. 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Secretant . 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 Roubaix, place de ... 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Sedaine . 
 
 
 
 Roubo . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Sdguier . 
 
 
 12 
 
 Rouelle. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Segur, avenue de . . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Rougemont. 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 Seine, de. 
 
 
 4 
 
 Roule, du. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 —, quai de. 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 Roussel. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Se'nat, palais du .... 
 
 
 
 Rousselet-St-Germain . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Sentier, du . 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 Roussin. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Serpente . 
 
 
 
 Roux, impasse. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Serurier, boulevart . . . 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 Rovigo, de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Servan . 
 
 
 
 Royal, pont. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Servandoni . 
 
 
 11 
 
 Royale, place, voir PI. des 
 
 
 
 
 Sdverin, St-. 
 
 
 i; 
 
 Vosges. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 —, eglise Saint .... 
 
 
 S 
 
 Royale-St-Honore .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Sevigne (anc. R. Culture 
 
 
 8 
 
 Royer-Collard. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Ste. Catherine) .... 
 
 
 
 Royer-Collard, impasse . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Sevres, de. 
 
 
 
 Rubens . 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Sibour . 
 
 9 
 
 G 
 
 Rude. 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Sibuet, de . 
 
 
 
 Ruffin, impasse .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Simon-le-Franc. 
 
 
 
 Rutv. 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Singes, des. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Sabin, St- . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Societe centrale d’Agricul- 
 
 
 9 
 
 Sabin, ruelle St-, voirBr^guet 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 ture ... . 
 
 . 
 
 
 B/edeker. Paris. 4th* Edition. 
 
 22 
 
338 
 
 LIST OF NAMES 
 
 e.w.e. r.w.b. 
 
 Soeur Rosalie, avenue . . 
 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 Theatre Franfais .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 Solferino, pont de . . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 — de la Gaite .... 
 
 
 9 
 
 Solitaires, des. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 — du Gjmnase drama- 
 
 
 
 Soly. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 tique. 
 
 7 
 
 
 Sorbier . 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 — Italien . 
 
 7 
 
 
 Sorbonne, la. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 — Lvrique. 
 
 
 7 
 
 —, place de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 — de la Porte St-Martin 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 — du Vaudeville . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 Soufflot. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 — des Varietes .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 Soulage. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Theatre, du (Grenelle) . . 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 Soupirs, passage des . . . 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 —, du (Montmartre), voir 
 
 
 
 Source^ de la. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Dancourt. 
 
 8 
 
 
 Sourdiere, de la .... 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Thenard. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Sourds - Muets , institution 
 
 
 
 
 Theray, de, voir Teheran . 
 
 4 
 
 
 des. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Therese. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Stanislas, college .... 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Thermes, Musee des . . . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Stanislas.. . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Thermopyles, passage des 
 
 
 
 —, passage. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Thevenot . 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 Stockholm, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Thibaud ...... 
 
 
 
 Strasbourg, boulevart de . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Thiboumerv. 
 
 
 
 —, place de. 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Thierre', passage .... 
 
 
 12 
 
 —, de. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Thomas-d’Aquin, eglise St- 
 
 
 6 
 
 Sud, passage du .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 -d'Aquin, place St- 
 
 
 6 
 
 Suffren, avenue de . . . 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Thomas-d’Enfer, St- . . . 
 
 
 
 Suger . 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Thorignv, de. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Sully, de. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Thouin. 
 
 
 
 Sulpice, eglise Saint- . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Tilsit, de. 
 
 i 
 
 
 —, place St-. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Timbre National .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 —, St-. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Tiphaine. 
 
 
 2 
 
 —, seminaire St- 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Tiquetonne. 
 
 
 6 
 
 Surcouf . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Titien. 
 
 
 
 Surene, de . 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 Tivoli, passage de . . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 Tabacs, manufacture des . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 —, place de .' . . . . 
 
 e 
 
 
 Taillandiers, des (anc. R. 
 
 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 6 
 
 
 Neuve de Lappe) . . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Tlemcen (anc. R. Mogador 
 
 
 
 Taillebourg, avenue de . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Belleville). 
 
 
 13 
 
 Taitbout. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Tocanier, passage .... 
 
 
 14 
 
 Tanger . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Tolbiac, de. 
 
 
 
 Taranne. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Tombe-Issoire, de la . . . 
 
 
 
 Tdhdran, de. 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Tonnellerie, de la . . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 Telegraphe, du. 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Tour-d'Auvergne, de la . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 Temple, du. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 -des-Dames, de la . . 
 
 6 
 
 
 —, boulevart du . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 — -de-Vanves, passage 
 
 
 
 —, rotonde du . . . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 de la. 
 
 
 
 —, du Faubourg-du- . . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Touraine, de. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Tenaille, impasse .... 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Tournefort. 
 
 
 
 Ternaux . 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Tournelle, pont de la . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Ternes, avenue des . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 —, quai de la .... 
 
 
 10 
 
 —, porte des. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Tournelles, des. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Terrage, du (anc. R. du 
 
 
 
 
 Tournon, de . 
 
 
 8 
 
 Grand St-JIichel) . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Tourtille, de . 
 
 11 
 
 
 Terrasse, de la. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Tourville, avenue de. . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 Terres-Fortes, des .... 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Toutav, impasse .... 
 
 
 
 Terrier-aux-Lapins, du . . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Tracy, de . 
 
 9 
 
 
 Tessier. 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Traktir. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Theatre de TAmbigu-co- 
 
 
 
 
 Traverse . 
 
 
 6 
 
 mique . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Traversiere-Saint-Antoine . 
 
 
 12 
 
 — Beaumarchais . . . 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Traversine. 
 
 
 8 
 
 — du Chatelet .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Trevise, citd 
 
 7 
 
 
 — Dejazet. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 —, de. 
 
 7 
 
 
 — des Folies dramatiques 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Trinite, eglise de la . . . 
 
 6 
 
 
IN THE PLAN. 
 
 339 
 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 
 R.W.B. 
 
 Trioson, gare. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Verneuil, de. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Trois-Bornes, des .... 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 
 Vernier . 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 -ChandeJles, des . . 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Vero-Dodat, passage . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 -Chandelles, ruelle des 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 Veron, cite. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 -Couronnes , passage 
 
 
 
 
 Veron . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 des . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Veronese. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 -Couronnes, des . . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Verrerie, de la . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 — -Freres, des .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Versailles, porte de . . . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 -Pavilions, des, voir 
 
 
 
 
 Vertbois, du . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Elzevir . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Verte, allee. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 -Soeurs, des .... 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Vertus, des .. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Tronchet . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Vesale. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Trone, place du .... 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Ve'zelay. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Trudaine, avenue de . . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Viala. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Truftault. 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Viarmes, de . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Tuileries, jardin des . . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Vicq-d Azir . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 —, palais des . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Victoire, de la . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 —, quai des. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Victoires, place des . . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Tunis (anc. R. Ormeaux 
 
 
 
 
 Victor, boulevart .... 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Charonne) . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 —, place St-, voir place 
 
 
 
 
 Turbigo . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Jussieu . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Turenne . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 — -Cousin. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Turgot . 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Victor Hugo, boulevart (anc. 
 
 
 
 
 —, place. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Boul. Haussmann) . . . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Turin, de . 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Victoria, avenue .... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Uhrich, avenue (anc. Aven. 
 
 
 
 
 Vieille-Estrapade, de la 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 de lTmperatrice) . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 — -Notre-Dame .... 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 lllm, d’. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 -du Temple .... 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 University, de P .... 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Vieilles Etuves - St-Martin, 
 
 
 
 
 Ursulines, des . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 des. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Usines, des. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 — -Haudriettes, des . . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Vacquerie, la . 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 Vieillesse, hospice de la 
 
 13 
 
 
 10 
 
 Val-de-Grace, hopital du . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Vienne, de . 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 —, du. 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Vierge, passage de la . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Valence, de . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Vieux-Augustins, des (voir 
 
 
 
 
 Valenciennes, place de . . 
 
 1U 
 
 
 
 R. d’Argout). 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Valenciennes, de . . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Vieux-Colombier, du. . . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Valere, yglise Saint- . . . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Vignes, impasse des . . . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 Valmy, quai de .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Vignolles, ruelle des . . 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Valois-du-Roule, de, voir 
 
 
 
 
 Vigny, de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Monceau. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Vilin . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Valois-Palais-Royal, de . . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Villars, avenue de . . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Vandamme . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Villedo . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Vanneau . 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Villejuif, de. 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Vanves, de . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Villejust, de. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Varenne, de. 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 Villette, bassin de la . . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Vauban, place . 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 —, boulevart de la . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Vaucanson, passage . . . 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 Villiers, porte de . . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Vaucanson . 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Villiot. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Vaugelas . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Vinaigriers, des .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Vaugirard, boulevart de 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Vincennes, de. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 —, de . 
 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 —, cours de. 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Vauquelin . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 — , hois de . 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Vavin . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 —, chateau de . . . . 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 Velasquez, avenue . . . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Vincent . 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 Vendome, place .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Vincent-de-Paul, eglise St- 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 
 Venise, de . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Vincent-de-Paul, St- . . . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Vera Cruz, de la . . . . 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 Vingt-neuf Juillet, du . . 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Verderet . 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Vintimille, place .... 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 Verel . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 — rue. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Vernet . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Violet. 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 22* 
 
340 
 
 LIST OF NAMES IN THE PLAN. 
 
 K.W.B. B..W.B 
 
 Violet, passage. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Vosges, place des (anc. 
 
 
 
 
 —, place . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Place Royale) .... 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Virginie. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 Vrilliere, de la. 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Visconti. 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 Wagram, avenue de . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Visitation, couvent de la . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 —, place de. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Vivienne. 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 Walliubert, place .... 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Volontaires, des .... 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Watt. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Volta. 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 Watteau (anc. Petite-rue du 
 
 
 
 
 Voltaire, boulevart et place 
 
 
 
 
 Banquier). 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 (anc. Boul. du Prince 
 
 
 
 
 Xaintrailles. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 Eugene). 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 Yonne, de P. 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 V -•?>' .... 
 
 
 5 
 
 «ii 
 
 
 Y vart. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Leipzig: Printed by Breitkopf & Hartel. 
 
I.K PRK 
 S'- (J IJIV.US 
 
 

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