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Frontispiece. 
 
MY COMMAND 
 
 ll 
 
 IN 
 
 SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 1874 - 1878 . 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 EXPERIENCES OF TRAVEL 
 IN TIIE COLONIES OF SOUTH AFRICA AND THE 
 INDEPENDENT STATES. 
 
 BY 
 
 GENERAL SIR ARTHUR TRURLOW CUNYNGHAME, G.C.B., 
 
 THEN LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR AND COMMANDER OF TIIE 
 FORCES IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 WITH MAPS. 
 
 THIRD THOUSAND. 
 
 lEjonixm: 
 
 M ACMILLAN AND C 0. 
 
 1879 . 
 
 [Right of TraK.sht.ion and Reproduction reserved.} 
 
LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS; 
 
QIC. S’ 
 
 c^ns 
 
 THESE PAGES ARE 
 
 BeVuuteir 
 
 TO 
 
 MY BROTHER OFFICERS OF BOTH BRANCHES 
 OF THE SERVICE, 
 
 IN GRATITUDE FOR THE ABLE ASSISTANCE 1 RECEIVED FROM 
 BOTH THE ARMY AND NAVY DURING A COMMAND 
 NOT FREE FROM DIFFICULTY. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
PUBLISHERS’ NOTE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 The Publishers are permitted to reprint the following letter 
 from the ‘Times ’ of Friday, February 21st, as it supplements 
 materially the account of Zulu land in General Cunynghame’s 
 narrative, on the authority of one who had obviously the best 
 means of information. 
 
 The writer’s estimate of the area of Zulu land differs most 
 materially from that of General Cunynghame. He gives it as 
 equal to Great Britain, 90,000 square miles—General Cunyng¬ 
 hame gives it at 10,000. The limits of savage kingdoms are 
 very uncertain, and we know little definite of the extent of the 
 territory of the Azwazi and the wild tribes (see Map given as 
 Frontispiece), which the writer may have had in his mind when 
 he spoke of the area of Zulu land. 
 
 The population of Zulu land is estimated very variously— 
 that stated in the text, 250,000, seems the most probable, and 
 corresponds fairly with the estimate in Lord Chelmsford’s me¬ 
 morandum of Cetewayo’s army as from 40,000 to 50,000 men. 
 The army includes practically all the male inhabitants between 
 14 and 15, and a good many who are older. If the reader 
 looks at a map of Scotland he will find that' the five counties, 
 Caithness, Sutherland, Ross and Cromarty, Inverness, and 
 Argyle, north of or intersected by the Caledonian Canal— 
 exclusive of Orkney and Shetland but inclusive of all the 
 Western Islands—contain an area of 13,000 square miles and a 
 population of 310,000, according to the last Census. Zulu land 
 
2 
 
 PUBLISHERS' NOTE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 is therefore much like the unmixed Highland country of Scot¬ 
 land both in extent and population. Physically it differs from 
 the North Highlands chiefly in the abundance of bush and 
 prickly underwood, and in the wide extent of the somewhat 
 arid pasture-grounds. Many of the rivers of South Africa— 
 e.g. the Orange River—run through rocky gullies. Probably 
 the smaller rivers of Zulu land are something like the Spey. 
 
 “ ZULULAND. 
 
 “TO THE EDITOR OF THE ‘TIMES.’ 
 
 “ Sir, —As one who lived for several years within sight of the 
 Edgudene forest, from which deep ambush the 20,000 Zulus 
 surprised our camp before Rorke’s Drift on the 22nd ult., I may 
 be permitted to say a few words upon the subject which is now 
 so bitterly filling the minds of Englishmen. 
 
 “ The panic, for I can call it nothing less, which has seized 
 the British mind at this reverse is utterly unworthy of the 
 British nation. The most sensible words I have read upon the 
 subject were in a French newspaper the other day, which 
 reminded us that every nation must expect reverses in time of 
 war, and that we cannot extend civilization in our Colonial 
 Empire and upon its borders without experiencing such. 
 Englishmen have grown into the idea that their arms and their 
 armies are to walk triumphantly and without a check through 
 the world. When, therefore, the slightest opposition confronts 
 us, we are told that England is on the eve of being ruined by 
 an eternal disgrace. Calm reasoners and well-balanced thinkers 
 will see in an initial reverse such as that we have sustained in 
 Zululand an element of future security and therefore of positive 
 final advantage. It was so in the Khyber Pass the other day; 
 it will be so if we treat the matter rationally and sensibly now. 
 
 “It is in some portion of human nature to fly out in a 
 moment such as the present, and lay the most wrongly-levelled 
 blame upon anybody and everybody, whereas it is quite possible, 
 and in the present instance more than probable, that no blame 
 attaches anywhere. Zululand is 7000 miles from us, we have 
 
PUBLISHERS' NOTE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 3 
 
 no telegraphic communication with it, and, therefore, we have 
 to wait a considerable time for further news. This is an addi¬ 
 tional element of irritation. The feeling of indignation grows 
 by delay, and there is no possible means of hastening it. In 
 the case of the Khyber reverse, we heard of successes following 
 so immediately upon it that the public mind had not time to 
 turn sour, being so rapidly turned to rejoicing. It might be 
 so, and probably would be so, in the present instance, if we 
 could know more. 
 
 “We shall probably see in calmer moments and clearer light 
 that no mistake has been made after all, either on this or that 
 side of the ocean. Sir Bartle Frere asked for as many troops as 
 he deemed necessary, and the Government sent him within a 
 little of what he asked. The authorities in South Africa were 
 well content with the response made by our Government to 
 their demands. Lack of troops, therefore, was not the cause of 
 the disaster. Lord Chelmsford, it appears, left a sufficient 
 number of men in charge of the camp for all ordinary contin¬ 
 gencies, and he was perfectly justified in going 12 miles away 
 from camp to reconnoitre. 
 
 “ That 20,000 Zulus, if that should prove to be the num¬ 
 ber— i.e. half the Zulu army—could suddenly appear before 
 our camp and annihilate it is quite another side to the question. 
 It shows us what we are not now likely to forget—that we knew 
 very little as to where the Zulus were and what they were 
 doing. But it also shows us what it is now high time that we 
 should learn—that we have a subtle, rapidly-moving, and there¬ 
 fore highly ubiquitous foe to deal with; and the English 
 Government, knowing this now, is entirely on the right side in 
 sending out strong reinforcements. To give an instance of this 
 capacity on the part of the natives of South-East Africa : I had 
 occasion in the year 1871 to go up into the Amaswazi kingdom, 
 which lies to the north of Zululand, to ask the authorities of 
 that country a question. There was a considerable party of us 
 altogether, white and black. Upon crossing the Amaswazi 
 border we were taken in charge of a native, as cunning and deep 
 an old counsellor as an African native Government could pro¬ 
 duce ; a native border agent, he was, in fact, a spy set to watch 
 
4 
 
 PUBLISHERS’ NOTH TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 the white men’s movements. This man conducted us to within 
 a few miles of the Eoyal town of Udidini, and then told us that 
 we must wait there until the authorities should be apprised of 
 our presence in the country. This was in the evening. All 
 night messages were being despatched to various parts of the 
 country, and next day every chief of any importance was present 
 before us to hear what we had to say. 
 
 “ In other Caffre wars, especially those of late years, we have 
 had to contend with only broken-up tribes, without a Govern¬ 
 ment and without a country to lose, an undisciplined mob of 
 Caffres, so to speak, without any cohesion, patriotism, or military 
 prestige to bind them together; and yet we have had our hands 
 full even with these. 
 
 “ In attacking the Zulu nation we set ourselves to a very 
 different work. We enter a country as yet untouched and but 
 little known comparatively by the white man ; a kingdom well 
 ruled as to native order, law and discipline, though it be a 
 government by brute force and bloodshedding ; a country, more¬ 
 over, of considerable extent, as large as England and Scotland, 
 broken and bush-covered, and well adapted by these physical 
 features for savage warfare. Zululand, though extensive, lies 
 very compact, and communication is almost as rapidly carried 
 on from one end to the other as by telegraph. In all parts of 
 the kingdom the least movement outside, on, or within the 
 border is watched and known with the keenest knowledge. We 
 have also an army to confront, strong, courageous, and perhaps 
 better drilled than any other savage army in the world; an army 
 formed originally by the uncle of the present King, who dis¬ 
 guised himself and went down into our old Cape Colony to see for 
 himself and to learn our mode of drill, discipline, and warfare; 
 an army perhaps 45,000 strong and composed of finer men than 
 many an English guardsman, splendidly made, and seldom much 
 under, frequently considerably over 6 feet in height, and armed 
 now with excellent rifles and guns, which they know how to use, 
 in addition to their national weapon, the assegai, or spear. 
 Lithe and agile as panthers, tough as wolves, and able to con¬ 
 ceal themselves by thousands like serpents—such are Cetywayo’s 
 soldiers with whom we are now in conflict. Hardly a day of 
 
PUBLISHERS' NOTE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 5 
 
 my African life passed without being thrown with some of these 
 fine warriors, and I have seen the King at the great annual war 
 dance in December reviewing 35,000 of these men. As he 
 himself expressed it, as he sat proudly upon a height over¬ 
 looking the great Amathlabatim plains, which were black with 
 his regiments all marching under their various coloured shields, 
 plumes, and wild beast skins, they were ‘ as the grass in¬ 
 number.’ 
 
 “ This, then, is the country we have invaded, and such the 
 army now called upon by its King to defend it. 
 
 “ That we are invading it justly and with good cause I can¬ 
 not doubt, when the justice of so doing lies in the hands of such 
 a man as Sir Bartle Frere. For myself I can say that since old 
 Panda’s death Cetywayo, his son, has been an element of danger 
 and discord not only in his own country and upon our frontier 
 over against his kingdom, but throughout all South Africa. 
 I have not the least doubt whatever that our difficulties with 
 Secocoeni in the North Transvaal are owing to Cetywayo’s 
 secret support and encouragement. I passed through Seco- 
 coeni’s country just before the war between him and the Dutch 
 Boers broke out, which dispossessed the latter of that country, 
 and I do not for one moment think that Secocoeni, strongly 
 placed though he is among the impenetrable hill fastnesses of 
 his country, would dare to oppose the English if unsupported 
 by other native tribes, of whom the Zulus are infinitely the 
 most powerful. 
 
 “For some years past our relations with Cetywayo have 
 been far from satisfactory, he has treated us continually with 
 that haughty insolence which marks his character, and ill- 
 concealed of late have been his feelings towards us. Again 
 and again he has broken the promises made to us at his corona¬ 
 tion. His disdain of all that passed upon that occasion as 
 binding him in any way is notorious. That we have been long- 
 suffering and conciliatory, perhaps beyond prudence, Mr. Shep- 
 stone, the able Secretary for Native Affairs, and best friend of 
 the natives from Cape Town to the Zambesi, has amply 
 testified. 
 
 “ An instance of Cetywayo’s deceit and faithlessness came 
 
6 
 
 PUBLISHERS' NOTE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 under my own observation at the time of his ascending the Zulu 
 throne under our segis. The wheels of Mr. Shepstone’s retreat¬ 
 ing waggons and gun-carriages were still fresh upon the grassy 
 hills of Zululand when I had occasion to visit Umahanana, one 
 of Cetywayo’s brothers. ‘ The King,’ he said to me, ‘ has pro¬ 
 mised Usomseu (Mr. Shepstone) not to kill any more of 
 our people, except for theft from the Royal person and kraal.’ 
 The very morning of the day upon which the Prince spoke 
 those words to me an impi (or detachment of spearmen) had 
 passed that Prince’s kraal on their way to destroy human life 
 upon a charge of witchcraft. Again and again has he treated his 
 promises thus. I have seen an uninterrupted deed of blood going 
 on for days around my house, villages destroyed, the inhabit¬ 
 ants put to the spear, cattle driven away as the King’s property, 
 crops confiscated, the land in terror. A hard and cruel tyrant 
 is Cetywayo, with a heart as utterly savage and heathen as 
 lives in Africa. No greater blessing could possibly dawn 
 upon his wretched people and his bloodstained land than the 
 breaking of his power and the taking over of his country, 
 and to this we must make up our minds. With such a nation 
 as the Zulus to deal with there can be no such things as Berlin 
 treaties. Promises on Cetywayo’s part, as I have already said, 
 are worth nothing at all. There will be no real lasting secured 
 peace either to us or his people until his power is gone and 
 his kingdom ours. Now that we have begun we must also 
 make an end. A half-and-half policy will be fatal; our 
 clemency would only be misconstrued into impotence. We 
 have set our foot upon a hornet’s nest, and we must either 
 destroy it or it will destroy us. 
 
 “ I am, Sir, &c., 
 
 “ One who has lived in Zululand.” 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The country which is the subject of the following narrative is 
 of considerable interest to Englishmen. 
 
 The noble efforts to found colonies which have been made 
 by England have been rewarded by results unequalled either 
 in ancient or modern times. 
 
 Many problems have yet to be solved. One of the most 
 important of these is, how to preserve the independence of 
 the colonies without causing them to lose their filial affection 
 for their mother country. 
 
 The following pages will illustrate some of the difficulties 
 of this problem. They contain descriptions of the country 
 and anecdotes of its inhabitants. The Book is divided into 
 five parts. Chapters I. to XI. contain an account of a 
 journey from Cape Town to the Eastern Frontier, the Free 
 States, and Basuto land. Chapters XII. to XVIII. describe 
 my visit to Pondo land and Fatal. In Chapters XIX. to XXII. 
 I give an account of the threatened rebellion in the Diamond 
 Fields, and the expedition sent to check it. Chapters XXIII. 
 to XXIX. deal with the annexation of the Transvaal; and 
 Chapters XXXI. to XLI. are devoted to a description of the 
 war on the eastern frontier of the Cape Colony. In these pages 
 I shall often have the pleasure of praising the conduct of my 
 own officers and others; sometimes I shall be obliged to speak 
 severely of men from whose policy I differed, but I am sure 
 that I have not put down anything in malice, and I take this 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 opportunity of thanking those of my friends in South Africa 
 whose kindness so greatly contributed to the pleasure of my 
 stay. 
 
 By far the greater part of the information in this volume 
 is derived from personal observation, but. many interesting facts 
 have been gathered from articles written in the colonial news¬ 
 papers by gentlemen of knowledge and ability, to whom, as a 
 body, I wish to acknowledge my gratitude for their valuable 
 assistance. 
 
 The colonies of South Africa, taken all together, are in 
 area about 450,000 square miles, or equal in size to United 
 Germany, France, Belgium, and Holland; or nearly five times 
 as large as Great Britain. The total population is rather 
 more than two millions, of which about 440,000 persons are 
 white. 
 
 There are only five principal ports in South Africa; Cape 
 Town, Port Elizabeth, East London, Durban, and Delagoa 
 Bay. With the exception of the last named, none of them 
 possess very great natural advantages, and some are mere road¬ 
 steads. The coast is rocky. The rivers run between high 
 banks, and are torrents in winter, and streams in summer. The 
 coldest time of the year is in our summer, but the climate is 
 delightful, and excellent for pulmonary complaints. The country 
 is very varied, containing mountain chains, deserts, scanty 
 forests, and boundless plains, once swarming with game, which 
 have been destroyed in enormous quantities. Copper, coal, 
 gold and diamonds form the chief mineral wealth of the country, 
 but almost every species of metal exists. The chief pursuit is 
 cattle-grazing, and the chief export is wool. Fruit-trees grow 
 well all over the colony, and “ nartjees ” (or Maltese oranges) cost, 
 in the season, a penny for twelve. In Natal, pine-apples grow 
 by the wayside. The vine, apricot, apple, pear, loquot, and cherry, 
 all thrive there. Fish are plentiful, and you can live well on 
 that food for 6 cl. a-day; but they are not of so good a kind as 
 
P liEFACE. 
 
 Vii 
 
 those in the northern seas. Housekeeping at Cape Town costs 
 on the average much the same as in England. While fruit and 
 fish is cheap, and meat not so dear as at home, butter is very 
 expensive. European luxuries cost about one-fourth more than 
 at home, and clothes perhaps one and a half times the price here. 
 This is due to the difficulty of finding good workmen in Cape 
 Town to cut them out and make them. 
 
 Repairs of all sorts are very expensive, particularly if they 
 require any degree of skill. The arts do not flourish at the 
 Cape. You might try every shop in the town and not be able 
 to buy an oil canvas or colours, but music is cultivated, and 
 many pianos come over from England. Reading is practised 
 to a limited extent only, and even the barristers, whom one 
 would expect to find provided with good libraries, seem to rely 
 in argument rather upon readiness and elocution than upon an 
 extensive reference to authorities. The chief amusements of 
 all classes are riding, driving, shooting, and billiards; and un¬ 
 fortunately there is too great a tendency on all sides, from the 
 highest to the lowest, to “ take a glass with a friend ” at all 
 hours of the day, a practice which, to say the least of it, 
 involves a considerable waste of time and money. Life proceeds 
 at the colony at rather a slower pace than in England—there 
 is more breathing-time, and the happy faces and jovial manners 
 of the inhabitants suggest the idea of a people accustomed 
 to a rude plenty, and not harassed to death by constant 
 worries. 
 
 Trade morality, I fear, does not rise to a very high level at 
 the Cape. I dare say it is not worse than in other lands, and, 
 being a soldier, I am not, perhaps, very well qualified to ex¬ 
 press an opinion. I can only go by what 1 have heard, but 
 I certainly recommend any young gentleman who lands in Cape 
 Town with money in his pocket to look well to the bargains he 
 makes, and, above all, to be careful of the speculations in which 
 he embarks. 
 
X 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 slave-owners, in despair at no longer having absolute control 
 over their farm-servants, and of ever receiving the promised 
 equivalent, sold their rights to Jews and middlemen for a 
 trifle, and “trekked” far out of the country into the districts 
 now known as Griqualand, the Orange Free State, and the 
 Transvaal. The question of slavery lias ever been a sore one 
 with the Dutch. They are so attached to that institution that 
 they will not readily consent to live in any country where 
 it is abolished; and it is to the desire of the Boers each to 
 “whop his own nigger” in peace, that we may trace the 
 opposition which has been experienced in our endeavours to 
 bring the Transvaal and the Orange Free State under English 
 rule. 
 
 The colony still continued extending its boundaries, occa¬ 
 sionally fighting, and ever growing more populous till the 
 year 1872, when a responsible government was granted it, 
 with a Legislative Council and House of Assembly, composed 
 of members elected by various constituencies. As regards 
 national feelings the colony may be roughly divided into east 
 and west. In the west the old Dutch element is in the 
 ascendant, in the east the English prevail. Although the 
 Dutch community is well united in opinion, Englishmen of 
 the east are divided into two groups, corresponding to the two 
 ports of Elizabeth and East London, between which ports there 
 is considerable commercial jealousy. A government which 
 rests mainly on the support of the Dutch is thus able by playing 
 off one section of the English against the other to create 
 sufficient dissension amongst the members of the opposition to 
 give it a majority, and this I believe has been the practice of 
 governments hitherto. 
 
 In 1867 the first diamond was found, and there soon flowed 
 into the colony a tide of wealth as welcome as it was unex¬ 
 pected. Bailroads were commenced on a scale I think rather 
 too extended at the commencement. To facilitate the making 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xi 
 
 of these railways immense gangs of natives were employed, 
 and by permission of their chiefs they were allowed to leave 
 their own localities far away in Kafir land. To make them 
 work only one inducement was effectual—the permission 
 to purchase fire-arms. There was a law in the colony for¬ 
 bidding the acquisition of arms by natives without a special 
 permit, to be given in those cases only in which the magistrate 
 empowered to do so was personally acquainted with the cha¬ 
 racter of the applicant. Unfortunately this salutary provision 
 was not attended to, and permits were given with a laxity quite 
 alarming. Companies of natives marched home, each bearing 
 his musket over his shoulder. Instances occurred in which 
 justices of the peace granted permits to natives in reckless pro¬ 
 fusion in order to curry favour with traders. The government 
 set the example, and for a while, blinded by a desire to secure 
 cheap labour, the colonists allowed the natives to arm, until at 
 least 400,000 muskets and rifles, some of them breech-loaders, 
 had been acquired. This was not done without protest. 
 Warnings appeared in the newspapers, and the older colonists, 
 who knew the Kafirs, were uneasy. I need hardly say that 
 I fulfilled my duty by repeatedly pointing out to the Ministry 
 the danger they were incurring. The circumstances which 
 attended the sixth and last of our Kafir wars will be found stated 
 in the last part of this work up to the time when my command 
 ceased, at which period I consider that the first part of the war 
 was virtually at an end. The present war against the Zulus 
 may be regarded as the second part of the sixth Kafir war. 
 
 2. Kafferaria.— Area, 10,000 square miles; population, 
 450,000 blacks. 
 
 The district lying to the west of the Cape Colony is called 
 Kafferaria. It is occupied chiefly by Kafir tribes. Amongst 
 these are the Fingoes and Gaikas, who occupy part of British 
 Kafferaria, sometimes called the Cis-Kei and the Galekas, 
 Fingoes, Pondos, Pondomise, Tambookies, and Griquas, who 
 
Xll 
 
 P Pi E FACE. 
 
 occupy Kafferaria proper, or the Transkei. (See the map of 
 Kafferaria, page 304.) These tribes have the same language, and 
 are undoubtedly derived from the same stock. Amongst them 
 the Fingoes, whose name signifies “dogs,” and who have been 
 persecuted almost to extinction by the others, are our only firm 
 friends. Under British rule, though at first cowardly, they have 
 developed fighting powers, and always joined our side. They 
 have lived peacefully in their locations, and are by far the 
 richest in cattle. 
 
 The whole of the Transkei is now under British protection, 
 and in a short time we may expect that the barbarous customs 
 which have hitherto prevailed there will be forcibly put an end 
 to. The disarmament of all the natives has been decreed, and 
 is to be hoped will be vigorously carried out. No one will, I 
 presume, object to depriving the Kafir of his gun, on the 
 pseudo-philanthropic principle that it is like depriving a child 
 of its toy. 
 
 3. Basuto land contains a population of about 150,000 of 
 contented natives, easy to govern. They were reduced to a 
 miserable state by the wars of Chaka (the Zulu). The battle 
 of Berea was fought in 1852 between them and the English, 
 and peace established. In 1869, after continued war with the 
 Free State, the boundaries were established, and the Basutos 
 placed themselves under British protection. 
 
 4. Natal. —Area, 18,700 square miles; population, 19,000 
 white, 300,000 black. 
 
 Natal was thickly populated by black races in the com¬ 
 mencement of this century. In 1820 it suffered the first 
 incursion of the Zulus. These formidable people inhabit the 
 country to the north of Natal, and their renown is due to 
 Chaka. He organised a military system so complete that the 
 Zulus, since his time, may be considered the Prussians of South 
 Africa. In the year above mentioned he desolated Natal, 
 murdering men, women, and children; and laid it so com- 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xm 
 
 pletely waste that it became a desert. This he did, not that he 
 wanted territory, but as an amusement. From the year 1825 
 to 1834, a body of English settlers occupied Natal. In the 
 meantime Chaka was murdered by his brother Dingaan, a 
 monster, whose deeds of cruelty filled all Zulu land with blood. 
 About the year 1834, the Dutch Boers made their first appear¬ 
 ance in Natal, under the leadership of Pieter Retief, who, 
 however, having been decoyed to a conference, was treacherously 
 murdered with all his followers by Dingaan in 1837. Ten 
 thousand Zulus then marched on Natal, which they almost 
 succeeded in surprising. As it was, they murdered about 600 
 persons, besides Eetief’s party. 
 
 An attempt was made to avenge tin's by the advance of a 
 body of men, mostly Kafirs under white leaders, styling them¬ 
 selves “ the grand army of Natal.” But the Zulus, after a 
 desperate battle, completely destroyed it. In 1838 General 
 Pretorius marched from the Transvaal with about 460 men, 
 supported by a smaller force. Being attacked by about 10,000 
 Kafirs, they killed 3000 of them with a loss of only four men 
 killed, advanced into Zulu land and seized the capital. This 
 was followed by a revolution in Zulu land, and a battle between 
 Dingaan and Panda, his brother, by whom Dingaan was defeated 
 and deposed. 
 
 In 1834 Natal was seized by the British, in whose possession 
 it has remained. Since that time it has steadily increased in 
 prosperity. 
 
 When Panda died, his son Cetewayo succeeded him. The 
 martial system of Chaka has been steadily kept up since his 
 time with but few relaxations. 
 
 5. The Orange Free State. —Area, 37,000 square miles ; 
 population, 30,000 white, 15,000 black. 
 
 The Free State was colonised chiefly by those Boers who left 
 the colony in 1834 in disgust at the emancipation of the 
 slaves. In 1848 it was declared British territory, and after a 
 
XIV 
 
 PEE FACE. 
 
 fight with the English at Boomplaats the Dutch submitted. 
 But in 1854 an unwise dread of expenditure caused the British 
 Government to abandon the colony ; and it became a republic, 
 with a representative government and a president. 
 
 6. The Diamond Fields, or Griqualand West. —Area, 
 15,500 square miles; permanent population, 1000 white, 4000 
 blacks; fluctuating population of diggers, 40,000. 
 
 This tract of country, lying to the west of the Orange Free 
 State, had originally been occupied by the Griquas, a mixed 
 race of Dutch and Hottentots under Waterboer, Cornelius Ivok, 
 and Adam Ivok. It was for a time nominally governed by the 
 Orange Free State. Adam Kok, son of the above named Adam 
 Ivok, made an exodus with his people from Griqualand West in 
 1801 into a country north of Kaffraria, which, having been 
 visited by the Zulus, had acquired the significant title of 
 No Man’s land. Here his tribe now reside. It is called Griqua 
 land East. In 1867 the first diamond w'as found ; and in 1869 
 a rush took place to the Diamond Fields. 
 
 8. Zulu land.— Area, about 10,000 square miles; popula¬ 
 tion 250,000 (black). This country is inhabited by the most war¬ 
 like of all the Kafir tribes. Cetewayo, the present king, almost 
 rivals his uncle Dingaan in cruelty, and his uncle Chaka 
 in military talent. After a sanguinary battle with his brothers, 
 in which he was victorious, he was crowned by Sir Theophilus 
 (then Mr.) Shepstone, secretary for native affairs at Natal. 
 During the Presidentship of Mr. Burgers, disputes arose be¬ 
 tween the Transvaal and Cetewayo, principally in consequence 
 of grants of Zulu land having been made without right by the 
 Transvaal Government. In these disputes, Mr. Shepstone acted 
 as mediator, upholding Cetewayo against the Boers. But as 
 soon as the Transvaal had been annexed by the English, and 
 Mr. Shepstone made Governor, Cetewayo perceived that times 
 had changed. Since then his demeanour has been growing 
 steadily more and more warlike, and in 1878 his attitude 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xv 
 
 became so threatening, that the safety of the colonies ot Natal 
 and the Transvaal was seriously threatened. This induced 
 Sir Bartle Frere to bring matters to a head, and last year an 
 ultimatum was sent to him, requiring that certain warlike 
 customs should be abandoned, and that he should give certain 
 guarantees tor keeping the peace. In the meantime the 
 boundary dispute between him and the Transvaal had been 
 made the subject of arbitration, and an award given, which, 
 while it gave most of the land to Cetewayo, guaranteed the 
 rights of the private persons who had settled thereon under 
 authority from the Boers. Cetewayo considered this not a 
 bona-fide restoration of the land. 
 
 The ultimatum of the English Government having been 
 virtually rejected, and a delay demanded, which is well-known to 
 be the natives’ mode of refusal, an attack on the country was 
 made by Lord Chelmsford, whose forces advanced from four 
 points over the Tugela and Buffalo rivers. 
 
 9. Aswasi land.— This country lies to the north of Zulu- 
 land. The Aswasis are probably as brave as the Zulus, but 
 have not the same military discipline. They are hereditary 
 enemies of the Zulus, and if backed by Europeans would pro¬ 
 bably fight against them. They assisted the Boers in their 
 attack on Seeocoeni’s country, in the north of the Transvaal, 
 and fought whilst the Dutch ran away. 
 
 10. The settlement of Lorenzo Marques (Delagoa Bay) is 
 Portuguese. It has been from this port that the Zulus have 
 obtained most of their arms; and it is much to be wished that 
 it should be acquired by the English. It will probably be the 
 port of the future for the Transvaal. Since the war with the 
 Zulus some English ships have gone there to stop the supply of 
 muskets and ammunition to the Zulus. This last proceeding has 
 greatly enraged Cetewayo. 
 
 The question of Federation,and the native questions are dis¬ 
 cussed in the following pages. I wish merely to add to what I 
 
XVI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 have said there, that I think one of the great defects in the ad¬ 
 ministration of native affairs, is the want of an efficient secret 
 native police service. It happened repeatedly when I was in 
 command that it was impossible to discover the motives and 
 intentions of the various chiefs. Their characters could only be 
 guessed at, and native councils of war often took place within two 
 or three miles of our towns, within the colony, without the magis¬ 
 trates having the least idea of what had been said. Our secret 
 information was derived from precarious rumours, and though 
 the magistrates at various posts did far more in this respect 
 than could have been expected of them, and frequently sent in 
 admirable reports, neither means nor money were placed at their 
 disposal sufficient to enable them to do what they might have 
 done. 
 
 The spelling of South African names is rather a difficult 
 matter, and depends much on “ the taste and fancy of the 
 speller.” I have adopted the spelling as I found it. To those 
 however who wish for accuracy in this respect as well as a 
 concise and excellent history of the Cape, I recommend Theal’s 
 ‘ History of South Africa,’ a work printed by natives at the 
 Lovedale Institute near Alice. 
 
 The statistics above given are the best I could procure. I 
 cannot vouch for their accuracy, as Government returns have as 
 yet only been given for part of the colonies. The unfortunate 
 issue of the first engagement, if compared with the battle 
 fought between the Zulus and General Pretorius, will show 
 the danger of arming savages with rifles. It is with the 
 greatest pain that I have seen in the melancholy list of the 
 killed in that action the names of many of my intimate friends 
 and comrades. 
 
 Although South Africa is a rising colony, I hardly think 
 it offers to the emigrant the chances which he would obtain in 
 Australia or New Zealand. South Africa is not a very rich 
 country, labour is hard to obtain, and it will be years before 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 XVII 
 
 irrigation can be carried on on a sufficient scale to make agri¬ 
 culture a brilliant success. Nevertheless, land is so abundant, 
 that the energetic colonist is sure at least to make a living, and 
 provided he does not drink, has a good chance of becoming a 
 rich man. The most valuable emigrant is the man who, having 
 a strong bodily frame and knowing a trade, can turn his hand 
 to anything. A blacksmith for instance, who is something of 
 a hand at carpentering, and on occasion can mend a lamp or 
 a clock, or do a little simple builder’s and architect’s work, 
 is sure to command an excellent position in the Transvaal, 
 especially if he has a portable forge, some tools, and a small 
 lathe with him. He would commence as a smith ; but in a 
 very few years I believe he would become a landowner. 
 
 The chief political questions affecting the colonies are 
 federation, the disarmament of the natives, the formation of a 
 force for colonial defence, and the reformation of the law. The 
 first three will be discussed in the following pages. The state 
 of the law in South Africa offers a most interesting spectacle to 
 the jurist. Ostensibly Dutch, it is really English, so that 
 instead of consisting of a series of English statutes grafted on a 
 Dutch root, the text-books of the famous Dutch jurists are 
 either treated as obsolete, or else as mere ordinances; the spirit 
 of the law being entirely English. A short time ago the free 
 disposition of property by will was introduced. This change is 
 sure to come about when a foreign system of laws is for a long 
 time administered by English judges. Unfortunately the law 
 remains very technical, and it is greatly to be wished that Con¬ 
 solidation Acts should be passed resembling those which have 
 done so much to render litigation simpler and less costly in 
 England. 
 

 
OONT ENTS. 
 
 BOOK I.—The Cape Colony. 
 
 Chap. Page 
 
 1. Cape Town .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1 
 
 II. Ostrich-Fauming .. .. .. .. .. .. 11 
 
 III. Wine-Growing .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 20 
 
 IV. Swei.lendam .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 30 
 
 V. Bound for the Eastern Frontier .. .. .. .. 39 
 
 VI. Volunteer Cavalry .. .. .. .. .. .. 52 
 
 VII. Outspan—Locusts .. .. .. .. .. .. 62 
 
 VIII. Dutch Characteristics—Sport .. .. .. .. 75 
 
 IX. Basuto land .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 82 
 
 X. Back to Tort Elizabeth .. .. .. .. .. 96 
 
 XI. Federation and Colonial Defence .. .. .. 100 
 
 BOOK II. —Kafferaria and Natal. 
 
 XII. The Komgha .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 108 
 
 XIII. Gangaleswe .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 119 
 
 XIV. Witchcraft .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 125 
 
 XV. Umthonthlo .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 139 
 
 XVI. Jojo—Griqualand East .. .. .. .. .. 145 
 
 XVII. PlETERMARITZBKRG .. .. .. .. .. .. 157 
 
 XVIII. The Tugela .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 164 
 
 BOOK III.—The Diamond Fields. 
 
 XIX. Griqualand West—The Diamond Fields .. .. .. 171 
 
 XX. Start for the Diamond Fiei.ds .. .. .. .. 177 
 
 XXI. The Kimberley Diamond Mine ., .. .. .. 194 
 
 XXII. The Lovedale Institute .. .. .. .. .. 215 
 
XX 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 BOOK IY.—The Transvaal. 
 
 Chap. Page 
 
 XXIII. The Annexation of the Transvaal .. .. .. 218 
 
 XXIY. Tour to the Transvaal .. .. .. 238 
 
 XXV. Botse Bello .. .. .. .. .. .. 246 
 
 XXVI. Leydenburg .. .. .. .. .. 253 
 
 XXVII. Pilgrims’ Best .. .. .. .. .. 260 
 
 XXVIII. Start for the Return Journey .. .. .. 268 
 
 XXIX. PoTCHEFSTROM .. .. .. .. .. .. 274 
 
 XXX. The Transvaal Farming—Sport .. .. .. 281 
 
 BOOK V.—The Sixth Kafir War. 
 
 XXXI. “The Frontier Scare”—War .. .. .. .. 296 
 
 XXXII. State of the Forces .. .. .. .. .. 306 
 
 XXXIII. The First Part of the War—Griffiths drives the 
 
 Galekas over the Bashee .. .. .. .. .. 316 
 
 XXXIV. Stutterheim .. .. .. .. .. .. 323 
 
 XXXV. Further Spread of Disaffection—The Fight at 
 
 Umzitzani .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 327 
 
 XXXVI. March of the British Troops over the Kei .. 338 
 
 XXXVIr. Attack by the Kafirs uroN the Mails between 
 
 the Cis- and the Transkei.. .. .. .. .. 343 
 
 XXXVIII. The Operations of the British Troops in the Transkei 351 
 XXXIX. Use of the Telegraph in the War.. .. .. 357 
 
 XL. Dismissal of the Ministry .. .. .. .. 368 
 
 XLI. The Fight at Quintana .. .. .. .. 372 
 
 MAPS. 
 
 The South African Colonies .. .. .. Frontispiece . 
 
 Iyaffharia .. .. .. .. .. .. to face 316 
 
 Place of the Fight at Quintana .. .. .. „ 372 
 
MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 BOOK I. —The Cape Colony. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 CAPE TOWN. 
 
 In the summer of the 3 T ear 1873 I made an excursion to the 
 north of Europe, travelling through Norway, Sweden, Finland, 
 and Russia, and found myself at Moscow in the month of 
 August. Whilst at Moscow I received by telegram an' inti¬ 
 mation that it was her Majesty’s intention to entrust to me the 
 command of the forces in South Africa; so, relinquishing the 
 remainder of my tour, I lost no time in returning to London. 
 At the commencement of October I sailed with my family and 
 my personal staff in the Union Company’s steamship Teuton 
 for the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 I need not allude to the incidents of the outward voyage, as 
 they differed little from those which have been so often told 
 in voyages across the line. 
 
 The Teuton was then a vessel of about 1500 tons, but, by 
 the ingenuity of mechanics, she was subsequently increased 
 by another thousand tons, introduced amidships, which in no 
 way appeared to interfere with her speed, while it very much 
 improved her capacity and comfort. 
 
 In our voyage out we touched at Madeira and at St. Helena. 
 
 (* B 
 
2 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 On tlie 15tli of November we steamed into Table Bay, Cape 
 Town. 
 
 Hardly had the anchor dropped than we received news of 
 an outbreak of one or more of the Kafir tribes, in the Crown 
 Colony of Natal, which was also under my military command. 
 
 This news was conveyed to us by the Harbour-master, and. 
 corroborated by a letter from the Governor handed to me by an 
 aide-de-camp, together with a newspaper article, from which 
 the following is an extract:— 
 
 Natal, November 1st, 1873.—This morning’s post brought in¬ 
 telligence that thirty Carabineers under Major Durnford had 
 occupied a pass unsupported for some time; and being 
 almost devoid of food they were obliged to catch a beast, 
 kill it, and eat it raw. 
 
 A strong body of Kafirs came up the pass with a large 
 number of cattle; there was au encounter, with the following 
 casualties : Privates Erskine (son of the Hon. Mr. Erskine, 
 the Colonial Secretary), Potterill, and Bond, and three native 
 auxiliaries, killed. A letter from Colonel Milles, 75th Kegi- 
 ment, commanding her Majesty’s troops, to the Hon. Mr. 
 Erskine, says, “ Your son behaved gallantly, and but for his 
 saddle turning round would have returned safe.” Langale- 
 balele has escaped ; his camp was found quite empty. 
 
 The following letter has come to hand from Drill-instructor 
 Clarke: “ The facts are these; we arrived at the top of the 
 Bushman’s Pass just as the Kafirs were taking their cattle up. 
 We stopped them, when Major Durnford was himself attacked, 
 and but for his shooting both his assailants, would have been 
 killed ; he was wounded, and Captain Boyes had a narrow 
 escape. Elijah the interpreter had been stabbed before he 
 fell, but was shot through the head as he lay. When young 
 Erskine fell, owing to his saddle turning, he was instantly 
 surrounded and stabbed to death. 
 
 “ The encounter took place not far from headquarters. Langa- 
 
A DISASTER IN NATAL. 
 
 3 
 
 !■] 
 
 lebalele’s people came on, sharpening their assegais, and 
 taunting the Carabineers, who had orders not to commence 
 hostilities. Mr. Shepstone was twenty or thirty miles distant, 
 stationing guards at the different passes, but was immediately 
 sent for. The Carabineers undertook their own commissariat 
 arrangements. The troops are in pursuit of the rebels.” 
 
 Another letter said: 
 
 “ We were three days on the top of the berg, without food for 
 either horse or man; we were in the saddle on Sunday 
 evening and Monday morning for eighteen hours, and twenty- 
 one hours from Tuesday to last night. The Kafirs are well 
 armed and drilled.” 
 
 These extracts were sufficient to show me the military errors 
 of this expedition. In the first place it was evident that the 
 conduct of it was not intrusted to a military man, and indeed 
 it would seem that four different authorities were in command, 
 each exceedingly anxious to use his best endeavours, but all 
 acting without cohesion or combination. Sir Benjamin Pine, 
 the Governor himself, took the field, thereby ignoring the 
 position of Colonel Milles. Mr. Shepstone commanded the 
 native auxiliaries, and the volunteers were placed under 
 Colonel Durnford. Due regard was not paid to transport or 
 supplies, the volunteers making their own feeble and spasmodic 
 arrangements for their rations. 
 
 Her Majesty’s troops acted as a reserve, and their military 
 arrangements were satisfactorily secured. One fatal error had 
 been committed. Orders had been given that the troops were 
 to withhold their fire until they were attacked, thereby giving 
 the enemy an undue advantage, of which they showed that 
 they were well able to avail themselves. 
 
 The result of these errors was confusion, valuable lives 
 uselessly expended, the advance of the enemy, the retreat of the 
 European colonial forces, and a general mismanagement and 
 collapse, ending in violent recrimination. Precisely the same 
 
 n 2 
 
4 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 thing occurred four years later in the Cape Colony, from the 
 same causes. Many weeks had been expended in Pietermaritz¬ 
 burg in making arrangements for the attack upon Langale- 
 balele. His tribe inhabited a district on the borders of Basuto 
 land, a country which was in charge of a British Resident 
 Commissioner from the Cape Colony; and yet no intimation 
 of the intention to attack this chief was made either to the 
 Governor of the Cape, the Commander of the Forces, or even 
 to the Resident in Basuto land. This omission was never 
 explained. In the sequel it did not prove as disastrous as 
 it might easily have done, but it demonstrated clearly the 
 want of combination in South Africa, and gave me the first 
 intimation of the benefit which would arise from Federation. 
 Nothing could convince the public generally on that subject, 
 until the lamentable war of 1877-78 threw a new light upon it. 
 
 On hearing of the rebellion of Langalebalele, and that his 
 warriors had escaped over the Drakensberg Mountains into 
 Basuto land, no time was lost in directing a force of the 
 Frontier armed police to march from King William’s Town 
 through Tembu and Pondo lands and the lower spurs of the 
 Drakensberg, if possible to intercept them, and to prevent 
 the seeds of rebellion being sown in other provinces. The 
 march of this force was conducted with great vigour and 
 celerity, and it was mainly owing to their exertions on their 
 arrival in Basuto land, directed by the Commissioner, C. 
 Griffiths, that the rebellion was so quickly brought to an end. 
 I regret to say that the exertions and privations which the 
 police underwent in the most inclement season of the year were 
 rewarded by the Colonial Government with merely a military 
 record of praise. 
 
 The large prize in cattle captured in Basuto land was given 
 over to the Natal Government, which, though profiting by their 
 exertions, refused, as far as I could learn, to distribute any 
 part of it to the Cape Colonial Police. 
 
!•] 
 
 LANGALEBALELE’S RISING. 
 
 5 
 
 All these matters gave me cause for serious reflections, as 
 I saw what difficulties must be encountered should war or rebel¬ 
 lion occur in South Africa, and they induced me to make repre¬ 
 sentations upon the subject. The answer I received was, that 
 there was no occasion to contemplate a state of things which 
 would be never likely to occur, such as a “Kafir war” or a 
 “Kafir insurrection.” These were the arguments used by the 
 Colonial Ministry even up to the moment when, in 1877, the 
 Frontier settlers were being murdered and their homesteads 
 burned. 
 
 The rebellion of Langalebalele was soon quelled. He was not 
 supported by the neighbouring chiefs; the possession of fire¬ 
 arms had not as yet become general, and the want of success 
 which attended this first demonstration boded ill for the na¬ 
 tives. Cetewayo (pronounced Ketchwyo), the Zulu King, was 
 on good terms with the English, having been lately crowned in 
 Zulu land by Mr. Shepstone, the Natal Minister for Native 
 Affairs. Langalebalele was confined first in Robben Island, near 
 Cape Town, and afterwards by a sort of ticket-of-leave on a 
 farm on the Flats near Cape Town. His treatment called forth 
 a deal of acrimonious feeling. Bishop Colenso of Natal visited 
 London for the express purpose of interceding in favour of 
 Langalebalele, in which he was most successful. 
 
 The trial of this chief having been conducted in an irregular 
 manner, an indemnity was directed to be paid to the neigh¬ 
 bouring tribes whose property had been confiscated. The wives 
 and children belonging to them were apprenticed to the 
 Natal fawners, while the husbands became daily labourers 
 in the colony. Thus ended the Kafir chief’s dream of in¬ 
 dependence, and of setting the white man at naught; Langa- 
 lcbalele, with three of his wives and his son, now smoke the 
 calumet of peace in his little farm near Cape Town, com¬ 
 plaining more of his scanty ration of tobacco than of the loss of 
 his kingdom. This rebellion being, in fact, extinguished as 
 
6 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 rapidly as it bad come into existence, there was no need for iny 
 immediate presence in Natal. 
 
 The first necessity of my household was that of being pro¬ 
 perly lodged. The increasing wealth at the Cape, in conse¬ 
 quence of the sudden augmentation of trade caused by the 
 discovery of diamonds, had changed as it were by a magic 
 wand the value of everything except the fixed incomes of 
 British officers. Meat—which a few years since had been about 
 2 cl. per lb.—had now risen to 9 d. A sheep could be purchased 
 not many years ago for 3s. 6cZ., and now 5s. or Cs. is charged 
 for the tail alone. The tails are of immense size; they weigh 
 from five to six pounds, and are used instead of butter. Hero¬ 
 dotus tells us about sheep whose tails were so long that 
 the shepherds had to make them little carts, so that they 
 might move about “carrying their tails behind them.” The 
 story has been often laughed at, and cited as a proof of his 
 credulity ; but from what 1 have seen of the Cape sheep, I 
 could believe that it might have been quite true. A horse 
 which could have been bought a few years ago for 10Z. or 12Z., 
 now costs 50Z.; and house-rent has risen in the same propor¬ 
 tion. Servants are scarcely obtainable, the most unsatisfactory 
 natives averaging 5s. or 6s. per diem. 
 
 After a short visit to the Governor and before we obtained 
 a house, we stayed for a few days at the Royal Hotel. The 
 pet companions of the lady and gentleman late arrivals from 
 Natal, who had rooms next to ours, were a chameleon and a 
 cobra. The first was interesting and harmless; but as the 
 second was of a different character, and lived in a box on the 
 verandah outside our sitting-room, we were reluctantly com¬ 
 pelled, although the weather was very hot, to keep the window 
 constantly closed. 
 
 The “liveliness” of our lodgings could not be adequately ap¬ 
 preciated irnless by personal experience; nothing of a defensive 
 character proved of any avail, although we expended whole jugs 
 
I.] 
 
 THE DOCTOR AT CAPE TOWN. 
 
 7 
 
 of water on our floors, and prepared our beds with “ Keating’s 
 powder.” It was an early sample of the slovenly habits of 
 the Africander, of which we subsequently had many a night’s 
 painful experience. 
 
 This discomfort, and the inviting appearance of the old 
 Dutch rooms in the fort in Cape Town, made me determine 
 to put them into order, and to inhabit the spacious saloons in 
 which the Governors of the Dutch East Indian Colonies once 
 reigned. I had never any cause to repent this decision. After 
 a few weeks’ labour, we were finally settled in our Southern 
 home, surrounded by the comforts which, in a soldier’s wander¬ 
 ing career, I had been able to secure. 
 
 The season was becoming very hot and the town un¬ 
 healthy, tempered, however, by the wind, without which Cape 
 Town, unhealthy as it is, would have been wellnigh unbearable. 
 This blustering gale, which drives all before it, is called “ the 
 Doctor.” Report says that it is so violent that cabs are upset in 
 the ranks, and people seen by the dozen clinging to the lamp- 
 posts, whilst those who attempt to walk do nothing but mark 
 time. I have myself seen it raise pebbles from the ground 
 and dash them with great force against the windows, but I 
 cannot say that I can quite answer for these “ flying rumours, 
 that gather as they roll ”! Singularly enough, six miles 
 distant on the other side of the mountain no one is incon¬ 
 venienced by the wind, for while it is blowing a hurricane at 
 Cape Town, a delicious calm pervades the beautiful valleys of 
 Wynberg. 
 
 The first excursion which I made from Cape Town was to 
 Stellenbosh. I was most kindly received there by Sir Chris¬ 
 topher Brand, a gentleman of the old school. He had been 
 for very many years Speaker of the House of Assembly, and 
 was the father of Mr. Brand, the President of the Free States. 
 
 He drove us to his handsome Dutch house, containing some 
 grand rooms. The owner is farming ostriches to a very consider- 
 
8 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 able extent. He commenced by purchasing a pair for 551., and 
 having placed fences in judicious positions, has formed various 
 parks and paddocks. In the second year, 1874, he sold some 
 young birds, but again bred from the original pair. At the 
 termination of this year he had repaid all his outlay, nearly 
 1000/., and still retained some twenty birds. An ostrich will lay 
 about fifty eggs in one year. Should forty birds be reared, and 
 each be sold at one month old for 10Z., a very handsome profit 
 can be made from the investment. Nor is this industry likely 
 to fail for many years to come. At present the greater the 
 supply, the greater apparently is the demand, and ostrich 
 feathers appear never to have been more in vogue than at 
 pr-esent. Ladies generally say that it is impossible they should 
 ever get out of fashion, as they are so becoming, and there is no 
 substitute for them ; and as, unlike diamonds, they soon wear out. 
 
 In 1875 the price of a pair of ostriches went as high as 500Z. 
 Even then they may have proved a profitable investment, espe¬ 
 cially as feathers were selling at from 30Z. to 40Z. the pound 
 weight. 
 
 Small ostrich farmers commence by enclosing three or four 
 paddocks with a wire or other fence. They purchase one cock 
 and two hens, for which they probably have to pay 400Z. 
 sterling. Each hen may lay fifty eggs in the season. The 
 cock assists in the hatching, sitting even longer than the hen 
 bird. 
 
 There are many other countries besides South Africa where 
 I am convinced that the ostrich in a tame state might be most 
 profitably reared. Amongst them I may name Scinde in the 
 Bombay Presidency, the neighbourhood of Gibraltar in Spain, 
 and Egypt. In these countries neither food nor labour is so 
 expensive as in South Africa. I hear that this industry is 
 already carried on in Australia, and in parts of America. An 
 attempt is at present being made to breed ostriches in England, 
 but with what success I have not learned. 
 
OSTRICH FARMING, 
 
 9 
 
 I-] 
 
 Regarding the profits to be derived from ostrich farming, 
 I will here quote a few words from the * Graaff Reinet Herald.’ 
 Many of my readers will think that it is no wonder farmers 
 should relinquish the cultivation of their lands, when so large 
 a profit is to be obtained from rearing these birds : 
 
 Ostrich Farming. —The total value of ostrich feathers ex¬ 
 ported from the colony in 1874 is returned as 205,5407, 
 including, we presume, wild and tame feathers. The value 
 in 1865 was 65,6627, almost entirely wild. The increase, 
 however, has been more in value than in quantity. Notwith¬ 
 standing the number of domesticated birds has increased in 
 that time from a thousand or so up to thirty thousand, the 
 export of tame feathers has not increased in anything like 
 that ratio, and probably the supply of wild feathers has even 
 decreased. Notwithstanding these anomalous results, ostrich 
 farming is at present one of the most profitable occupations 
 on the face of the globe. A pair of full-grown birds may 
 still be bought for 3007 or 4007 On a hundred acres or so 
 of ground as many pairs as you require may be kept. From 
 each pair, with fair luck, some twenty young birds per annum 
 may be looked for, worth 157 The young birds increase 
 in value at the rate of between 27 and 37 per month. The 
 feathers of a full-grown bird fetch about 107 or 127 per 
 annum. From ten pair of full-grown ostriches, a number 
 which a farmer could easily attend to without even the 
 assistance of a servant, an income of 30007 per annum 
 ought to result. If, however, we say 20007, to allow for 
 contingencies, still it is hard to think of any occupation 
 which pays so handsomely with so little trouble. 
 
 That a farmer should give up the cultivation of his land for 
 ostrich-farming is only too natural. How much labour, 
 how much anxiety, how much difficulty and trouble of every 
 kind would be required before an equal income could be 
 
10 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiap. I. 
 
 made by agriculture! If, however, we conclude that the 
 occupation of ostrich-farming is a paying one for the colony, 
 we may he greatly mistaken. We are exporting some 
 180,000/. worth, say, of tame feathers, and are importing a 
 great deal more than that value of breadstuff's. So far as 
 the colony is concerned, ostrich-farming is very like the tulip 
 mania of Holland; immense sums of money are changing 
 hands, on the speculation of great returns some day, but the 
 whole occupation is at present more of the nature of com¬ 
 mercial gambling; it is buying and selling for a rise. At 
 present also the breeding of young birds is so profitable that 
 the feathers are hardly attended to, and it is well known to 
 farmers that both cannot be attended to with equal profit 
 ait the same time; brooding destroys the feathers, and 
 plucking disturbs the birds and hinders them from laying. 
 As the number of tame birds must be at least doubling, if 
 not quadrupling, every year, and as wild birds are still being 
 captured and domesticated, we shall in a few years come to 
 a crisis. There will be a sudden fall in the price of young 
 birds; farmers will begin to turn their attention to feathers 
 instead of breeding; the supply of feathers will increase 
 suddenly, and their value will necessarily fall. Those who 
 have sold out before the fall will be rich men. Those 
 who have held on, and have mortgaged their farms and run 
 into debt to speculate in ostriches, will be ruined; and, 
 what is worse, the minds of a large number of our farmers 
 will have been diverted' from habits of wholesome industry 
 and directed to merely speculative plans for becoming rich. 
 We are afraid that we shall see this crisis before we see 
 the railway to Grraaff Eeinet. If the colony was in want of 
 money, a tax of 11. per annum on every ostrich woidd bring 
 in a splendid revenue, and only act as a wholesome restraint 
 on speculation. 
 
( 11 ) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 OSTRICH-FARMING. 
 
 The subject is so interesting, that I shall not apologise for 
 now inserting a few remarks on this strange bird, taken from 
 Mr. De Mosethal’s excellent work, which I have every reason 
 to believe to be in all respects truthful. 
 
 It is a joint work in which one writer exhibits a good deal 
 of research, while the other details the result of his practical 
 observation at the Cape of Good Hope. No pains have been 
 spared by Mr. Harting in consulting all the authorities who 
 have treated of the ostrich, from Xenophon and the Old Testa¬ 
 ment down to Professor Huxley and Mr. Blyth. Mr. De 
 Mosenthal writes from all that fulness of knowledge with 
 which a Consul-General and a Member of a Legislative Council 
 in South Africa may reasonably be credited. It seems that the 
 spectacle of a complete assortment of ostrich feathers at the 
 late Vienna Exhibition gave rise to many inquiries; and the 
 object of this volume is to respond to those calls by compiling a 
 natural history of the ostrich family, and by showing how far 
 it may be possible to increase and develop the traffic in the 
 feathers, which are staple objects of commerce. Whether 
 young ostriches can be turned out like hand-bred pheasants, or 
 whether it will pay to set apart whole tracts of land in Europe 
 for the rearing of these birds, is a question which must remain 
 doubtful. Possibly some additional experience may enable 
 an adventurous young Englishman, with 300CP. or I000Z. of his 
 own, to set up an ostrich-farm at the Cape, just as he would 
 
12 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 start a coffee-plantation at Ceylon, or a tea-garden at Darjeeling 
 or Cacliar. 
 
 Mr. Halting is at some pains to remove any misconception 
 as to the domicile of origin of these birds. He shows that they 
 are mentioned in the Bible, in classical authors, and by ancient 
 and modern travellers in Arabia and Mesopotamia; and that 
 even to this day they are not extinct in the neighbourhood of 
 Damascus. Xenophon, in the ‘ Anabasis,’ several times writes 
 of these “ big sparrows,” as some Greeks called them. The 
 equivalent for ostrich in modern Persian is “ shutur-murgh,” 
 or the “ camel fowl.” This is very like the Greek arpovdo- 
 Kap.rjXo 1 ;. Other Greek writers mention these birds as KaTaycuoL 
 or pcraloi —that is, land-birds, or those that do not fly. It 
 seems clear that the bird has at no time been indigenous to 
 India, though the author correctly relies on the authority of 
 Mr. Blytli for the fact that ostriches are frequently offered for 
 sale at Calcutta, and are now and then purchased by native 
 magnates like the Maharaja of Burdwan many years ago. 
 The late Mr. Charles Prinsep, some time Advocate-General 
 of Bengal, had a pair of ostriches in his garden at Belvedere, 
 Alipore, once the residence of Warren Hastings, and now that 
 of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. The natives nick¬ 
 named them “ big peacocks.” There is no physical reason that 
 I know of why the bird should not flourish in the sands and 
 heat of Upper India. But there is the undoubted fact that 
 npither the eggs nor the skeletons of the ostrich have been 
 discovered there by inquiring naturalists. Everybody has heard 
 of the speed at which it can run, its inability to raise itself off 
 the ground, its amazing powders of digestion, its wariness, and 
 the extreme inconvenience which may result to any incautious 
 hunter w'ho, after running it to a standstill, comes within the 
 reach of its vigorous kick. De Mosenthal’s book dwells on a 
 number of other minute and less known particulars regarding 
 its habits and powers. 
 
II.] 
 
 OSTRICH HUNTING. 
 
 13 
 
 It can travel immense distances, though its range of feeding 
 is ordinarily limited to a space of twenty or thirty miles from its 
 headquarters. It can run at the rate of twenty-six miles in the 
 hour, the average rate of a Parliamentary train. It can dis¬ 
 pense with water, though fond of bathing. Nothing comes amiss 
 to it in the shape of food — “ seeds, berries, fruit, grass, leaves, 
 beetles, locusts, small birds and animals, lizards and snakes 
 the process of trituration and digestion being aided by “ sand, 
 stones, grit, bones, and even pieces of metal.” The male is 
 polygamous, but takes his turn at incubation with the hen. 
 The eggs make very fair omelettes, though apparently coarse 
 in flavour, and the meat is highly prized; but, the author is 
 careful to add, by natives. A French author describes the 
 flesh of young ostriches as “ assez bonne, quoique d’un gout 
 tres-prononce,” and that of adults as “tres-desagreable ” ; and he 
 adds that dogs will not touch it. To run down or capture the 
 ostrich various methods are employed. Owing to the speed 
 and endurance of the bird, several horsemen must hunt 
 together on a concerted plan. One follows it at a hand 
 gallop, and the others leisurely take another direction at 
 right angles to its course, and come in like second horses 
 with the Quorn or Pytchley, just when the first pursuer is 
 blown. 
 
 Even then the ostrich has a trick of crouching in scrub or 
 rocks, allowing the hunt to pass by, and so evading pursuit 
 altogether. Bushmen and natives are guilty of more un¬ 
 sportsmanlike modes of compassing their object. One man 
 discovers the nest, removes the eggs, and, putting himself in 
 their place, awaits the return of the parent and assassinates her 
 with a poisoned arrow. In Arabia the Bedouin steals up to the 
 nest at the most anxious period of incubation and kills the 
 female, following this up by the death of the male, when he 
 returns unsuspectingly to roost at sunset. Some stalk the birds 
 by means of a screen or imitation of the living ostrich. Others 
 
14 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 drive them, like deer in the Highlands, to a pass, or surround 
 a vast plain by a cordon of hunters, who gradually contract their 
 sphere of operations, and bewilder the unlucky birds by yelling 
 and shouting and allowing them no rest. It is no wonder if 
 the breed diminishes under so systematic a persecution, which 
 spares neither sex nor age, and laughs at close-time. In South 
 America it is stated that the return of slain or captured birds 
 has averaged 400,000 per annum, so that a man may now ride 
 hundreds of leagues from Buenos Ayres without seeing one. 
 Mr. Harting has judiciously included in his book some account 
 of other members of the great struthious family, including the 
 Cassowary and the Emu, and he prominently notices the fact 
 that while the South African Ostrich has two toes, the Rhea 
 and the Cassowary have three. The Emu, which differs from 
 the Cassowary in the head, beak, and wings, resembles beefsteak 
 in flavour, and yields six or seven quarts of oil, well adapted 
 either for burning or embrocation. It is difficult for those who 
 have not varied a meal of damper in the Bush in Australia 
 by such game as they can kill, to form a correct idea of 
 the relative merits of the flesh of the Kangaroo and the Emu ; 
 but a writer on Australian sport gives the preference to the 
 latter. 
 
 Mr. De Mosenthal’s book is not merely a contribution to 
 natural history : it aims at a distinctly practical object. There 
 is a good deal of information to show how the trade in 
 feathers may be stimulated, and it is hinted that the high 
 price of beef and mutton might be kept down by a judicious 
 investment in live emus, in addition to our present list of 
 domesticated animals fitted for food. We are bound, however, 
 to say that the authors seem to us to take a somewhat san¬ 
 guine view of the adaptability of our climate to this object; 
 and the experiences of a worthy gentleman in Surrey are 
 quoted at some length, apparently without the smallest 
 appreciation of the ludicrous shifts to which he was put in 
 
II.] 
 
 TWO EMUS. 
 
 15 
 
 liis heroic ardour to shine as a naturalist and the producer of 
 a new stock. 
 
 In the year 1860, a pair of emus were landed from Sydney 
 in the Duncan Dunbar. A series of experiments were tried 
 and the results noted with as much minuteness as it' the narrator 
 had discovered a cure for cholera or an infallible specific for 
 dealing with quiet drunkards. The emus were let loose in a 
 large paddock enclosed by iron-hurdles and protected from the 
 river, because, though very fond of water, they did not know 
 how to manage themselves when out of their depth. Instead 
 of waiting for the return of spring, the female perversely 
 laid an egg in the second week of February, which, when 
 discovered in a heap of litter, the writer thought “the most 
 wonderful production I had ever seen.” This was nothing 
 to what followed; for the bird went on laying, in spite of cold 
 weather and snow, until it had brought forth thirteen eggs 
 in about the space of six weeks. One of the pair proceeded to 
 sit on the eggs; the keeper of the Zoological Gardens was 
 extremely dissatisfied because the writer naturally imagined the 
 sitting bird to be of the female instead of, as it turned out, of 
 the male sex; this tiresome creature created a scandal by 
 going off one day while the family were at church, leaving the 
 eggs to the chances of hot water and a sand bath, extemporised 
 in a saucepan; the amateur telegraphed to the Zoological 
 Gardens, and sat up himself all night regulating the tempera¬ 
 ture and turning the eggs, which were eventually sent up to 
 town in hot bran, folds of flannel, and a tin case. All this 
 resulted in the production of four young emus, as may be learnt 
 in detail in Chapter XV. The truant emus returned to their 
 home in Surrey, the author’s scepticism as to the sexes was 
 cleared away, and the sagacity of the keeper vindicated, when 
 the larger bird one day dropped an egg on the ground, and its 
 smaller mate turned it over and finally took on itself the entire 
 duties of the mother. This process, or something like it, was 
 
 4 
 
16 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 repeated, till the nest was filled with sixteen eggs. We have 
 several pages filled with the author’s parental anxieties, his 
 despondency, his moods of melancholy, and the tremendous 
 reaction of joy when the striped body of a young emu was seen 
 nestling close to its parent. “He hardly knew how to break 
 the news indoors.” I regret to add that the relations be¬ 
 tween the male and female emu are by no means of a peace¬ 
 ful character, though it may gratify the advocates of women’s 
 rights to know that in conjugal disputes the female has far the 
 best of the battle, strikes the male, tears his feathers, causes 
 him loss of blood, and remains for a time at least complete 
 mistress of the situation. 
 
 In a subsequent season the experiment of incubation was 
 resumed. Two young emus, not those sent to the Zoological Gar¬ 
 dens, were so indisposed that they had to be attended by a local 
 medical practitioner, and dosed with calomel pills, which, strange 
 to say, brought them both round after they had been given over. 
 Nothing was added to the stock of emus by the older birds, al¬ 
 though one laid the enormous quantity of twenty-eight eggs. A 
 lady and a gentleman in a pleasure-boat thoughtlessly frightened 
 the mother off its nest and spoiled the hopes of the season. We 
 are happy to say that, subsequently, a period of agonizing hopes 
 and fears was exchanged for one of rejoicing when ten young 
 emus were hatched, of which seven grew up to form a “ lively and 
 interesting family.” It must not, however, be supposed that 
 the book contains nothing but the touching expressions of a 
 naturalist’s affection for his chickens, or his heartrending 
 lamentations over their infantile diseases and their untimely fate. 
 The possibility of stocking a farm with ostriches is discussed 
 in some forty pages, which form Part II. of Mr. He Mosenthal’s 
 volume. 
 
 Attempts have been made with some success to rear ostriches 
 at Florence, Marseilles and Madrid for the sake of their produce. 
 But it is tolerably clear that the Cape of Good Hope is far 
 
II.] 
 
 THE TROUBLES OF TIIE OSTRICH. 
 
 17 
 
 better fitted for this scheme than even Southern Europe. The 
 climate is natural to the ostrich. Space is more available, and 
 suitable food can be more easily supplied. 
 
 It is not yet quite settled what number one acre can bear, 
 but it is evident that the birds require a good deal of space, 
 strong fences, sheds for shelter, and houses for incubation. One 
 gentleman sowed lucerne on 8 acres for 30 birds. Another 
 allotted 500 acres to 23. A third stocked 1000 acres with 90, 
 which raises a doubt in my mind whether his speculation 
 cotild be made to pay. The land, it is affirmed by competent 
 authorities, should be sandy, or at any rate should have sandy 
 patches. Timber is said not to be necessary. The question of 
 food is not free from difficulty. Naturally the ostrich feeds 
 on sweet grass in the Karoo, or desert lands of the interior. 
 Occasionally it resorts to the coast, where it will eat sour 
 grass, which gives it lime and salt. Alkalies it must have in 
 one shape or another, and ostrich-feeders are recommended 
 to give Indian corn, locally termed “mealies,” green-meat, and 
 crushed bones. The latter supply the phosphate of lime, which 
 seems to jwoduce something of the effect ascribed by Mr. 
 Squeers to pastry for schoolboys. Some breeders give lucerne 
 in large quantities. 
 
 The ostrich flock is liable to be thinned. The birds fight 
 and kill each other; they fall into holes when young; and they 
 are killed by natives, or die of diphtheria, cold or wet. Crows 
 maliciously destroy their eggs. Thunderstorms have an injurious 
 effect on them, and too great or too little heat may prove 
 fatal during incubation. Now and then a cock becomes trouble¬ 
 some and pugnacious, and an instance is given of one that 
 attacked a rider and kicked his horse on the chest, though the 
 animal soon showed that two could play at the game. Opinions 
 seem to differ as to the proper time for plucking. The feathers 
 are in prime condition at the period of incubation, which is 
 precisely when the birds must be left alone. One fancier hit 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 on the device of penning the birds, cutting off the best feathers 
 with a sharp knife instead of plucking them out, and leaving 
 the stumps to fall out or to be removed afterwards. The writer 
 of this part of the book seems to incline to the opinion that 
 the chickens have the best chance of life with an artificial 
 machine, and that they do better when put into warm cribs 
 and under blankets in their infancy than consigned to the 
 natural heat of their parents. An amusing episode in their 
 life is, that they now and then favour their owners with a 
 dance, and spin round not ungracefully, like dancing dervishes. 
 
 Calculations differ as to the return in money which the 
 trade yields. One gentleman estimates that one bird gives 
 81. a-year. Another says that a full-grown male yields a 
 pound of first-class feathers, worth at Cape Town between 
 40 1. and 50Z., but this must have been in the early days 
 of farming, for an increase in the yield has been followed by a 
 decrease in price. In 1868-69 it sunk to 21. and 31. per pound ; 
 but, “ picked white,” always commanded a high market. Six 
 years afterwards, or in 1874, the price had again risen to 5 1, 
 and even to 81., at Natal. 
 
 The total value of the exports has increased enormously. 
 In 1854 the feathers exported from Cape Colony and from 
 Natal together amounted to little more than 13,OOOZ. In 
 1874 the value was more than 200,000Z. By far the greater 
 part of this was supplied by the Cape. 
 
 In 1865 the number of tame birds at the Cape was only 80. 
 In 1875 it had swelled to 32,000. At the Cape, too, an 
 Englishman is under constitutional government, and enjoys one 
 of the finest climates in the world; and though he may not 
 make a vast fortune, yet with prudence, attention, and a fair 
 amount of capital, he may achieve a comfortable independence, 
 and live a life preferable to farming sheep on the plateaux of 
 hot Queensland, or losing them in snowstorms at some isolated 
 station in the wilds of New Zealand. 
 
OSTRICH FEATHERS. 
 
 19 
 
 II.] 
 
 There is a singular circumstance in respect to which the 
 ostrich feather differs from that of all other birds. The 
 quill, which in other birds is always unequally divided, is 
 in the middle of the feather plume. It is said that this 
 equal balance was probably the origin of the hieroglyphic 
 of the Egyptians, which represented Justice by an ostrich 
 feather. 
 
20 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [CnAP. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 WINE-GROWING. 
 
 Although the chief industry at the Paarl and at Stellenbosh 
 is the culture of the vine, yet the wine, far from improving, 
 has for many years rather fallen off in its quality. This may 
 be owing to many causes. The first, no doubt, is the high 
 price of labour. The second may be the great expense of 
 sending the wine to market at the Diamond Fields and 
 other places in the interior of the colony. To these causes 
 may be added the high duty charged by the colony of Natal 
 upon the wines of the Cape, ignorance of proper methods of 
 preparing them, and the difficulty arising from a want of suffi¬ 
 cient capital to store them until they have become properly fit 
 for use. 
 
 There can be no doubt that at present Cape wines deservedly 
 stand low in public estimation. There may be many reasons 
 for this. The quality of the earth appears to produce in 
 the grape an earthy matter, which may affect the wine, 
 making it resemble an inferior Madeira. From this flavour 
 the most carefully prepared kinds are not free. The taste of 
 the consumers generally is so undefined that they have not 
 yet learned to distinguish the value of good Spanish wine, 
 principally because they never see it. Lastly, perhaps, it 
 may be more profitable to make the juice of the grape into 
 brandy ; for where carriage to a distant market is so expensive 
 —such as sixpence or more per pound weight, or sixpence per 
 pint, to the Diamond Fields—it acts as a great inducement to 
 
Ill-] 
 
 CAPE WINES AND “ CAPE SMOKE.' 
 
 21 
 
 make an article with the greatest possible strength in proportion 
 to its bulk. 
 
 Only a very small proportion of the brandy has any pre¬ 
 tension even to imitate the Cognac of France, the larger 
 proportion being manufactured into “ Cape Smoke,” a most 
 disagreeable spirit, commonly used throughout the colony, 
 and, indeed, throughout South Africa. 
 
 An association has lately been organised with a view of 
 improving the wine in the Cape Colony, and as it is under 
 the auspices of influential persons, and already possesses a 
 very considerable capital, it has every chance of proving 
 successful. 
 
 The general principle upon which it proposes to act is to 
 improve the manufacture and pay attention to the keeping of 
 the wine, and especial regard to the “ madre,” upon which all 
 palatable sherries so largely depend. These objects require 
 capital and great attention, and no success in wine can be 
 obtained unless both are steadily kept in view. 
 
 I quote a few lines from the prospectus of “ The South 
 African Wine-Growers’ Association ” :— 
 
 The manufacture of Cape wine admitte lly has not kept pace 
 with the productions of other countries. The farmers have 
 been wedded to obsolete habits, such as forcing the yield of 
 the wine by excessive irrigation, picking the grapes without 
 sufficient care, and improperly stopping fermentation by 
 the introduction of bad spirit; while the merchants have 
 given an almost uniform price for all wines, mixing them 
 indiscriminately in large vats, and finally, by obnoxious 
 compounds, forcing the apparent maturity, and imparting a 
 debased flavour. These practices are obviously capable of 
 easy and complete extinction. As wine-farming is one of the 
 most important industries iu South Africa, and capable of 
 almost unlimited development, the matter was seriously 
 
22 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 taken up rather more than a year since by a number of 
 gentlemen with a view of remedying these evils by the 
 introduction of skilled experts in wine-making, and by 
 the application of sufficient capital to allow the wines 
 properly to mature. 
 
 This project was welcomed by the farmers, whose individual 
 means were unequal to the effort, and nearly eight hundred 
 and fifty farmers have become shareholders. The value and 
 importance of the undertaking has been fully recognised by 
 his Excellency Sir Bartle Frere, Governor of the Colony, 
 who has become patron of the Association. 
 
 One of the first acts of the Association, when duly registered, 
 was to engage a skilled wine maker from Xeres, who gives it 
 as his unhesitating opinion that, with the splendid soil and 
 climate of South Africa, and the wonderful advantages of 
 its hills and slopes, as fine wine can be produced there as in 
 any country in the world. 
 
 The Paarl is a pretty town ; the streets are lined with oak- 
 trees which, being dwarfed when young, become very shady. 
 There also are vineyards in a high state of cultivation and pro¬ 
 duction. The valley of the Drokensfeldt, about ten miles 
 above the town, is very beautiful, a fine old Dutch house and 
 estate commanding the entrance. 
 
 Not many miles from the Paarl is the residence of Mr. H.,, 
 a genuine type of the Africander; energetic, of so hard a con¬ 
 stitution that no privation, no fatigue can overcome him ; and 
 generous in his hospitality, which is of a most varied kind, as 
 I learned from the officer of my staff, who stayed with him. 
 On three successive days his table groaned under luxuries, 
 amongst which were joints of the ant-eating bear, the porcupine, 
 and the ostrich, and other singular meats, which he had care¬ 
 fully obtained to surprise and please his English guests. He 
 is like the hare with many friends, 
 
III.] 
 
 CAPE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. 
 
 23 
 
 As a rule, young ladies at the Cape are not supposed or 
 expected to bring fortunes to their husbands. When they are 
 sensible, and well instructed in the management of a house, 
 they are considered a fortune in themselves. 
 
 Stellenbosh is a charming old Dutch town. The houses are 
 very quaint, each with a gable end facing the road. Rows of 
 stunted oaks line each street, through which flows a rill of clear 
 water. It was with regret that I observed that the old Court¬ 
 house had been converted into a school, but the Government 
 was in such difficulties prior to the discovery of the Diamond 
 Fields, that jmblic buildings had to be sold in all directions. 
 
 A very extensive fire had recently destroyed many of the old 
 houses at Stellenbosh, nor is it likely that any great increase 
 to the town will now take place. Speculation and investment 
 are taking a wider range towards the east, hundreds of miles 
 from Cape Town, where much greater profits can be realised. 
 
 It is much to be regretted that Stellenbosh does not possess 
 any house worthy of being called an hotel in the humblest 
 sense. Many of the country people drive to this town, but it 
 is their invariable habit to visit their friends. 
 
 On leaving Stellenbosh I visited the Paarl, where there is 
 a mountain of granite, the sun striking upon which heats the 
 atmosphere unpleasantly. 
 
 From the Paarl we went on to Wellington, which was then 
 the terminus of the only railroad in this colony, distant about 
 seventy miles from Cape Town. In the next compartment to us 
 were two Africander youths; one country, and the other town- 
 bred; the former dressed in loose white coat, slouched hat, thick 
 seal-skin vest and stout corduroy brown cords; tho latter with 
 smart blue necktie, soft black hat and tweed coat. They were 
 happy over their bottle of Boer brandy and their banjo. They 
 had an altercation at Wellington with the driver of the post- 
 cart, as they desired him not to allow two native blacks to 
 enter their carriage. The driver said he did not mind 
 
24 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiap. 
 
 humouring these aristocratic proclivities, provided they would 
 pay the fare for the places the natives would have occupied. 
 They would not agree to this. Finally we saw them drive off, 
 the four seated in the same vehicle, the pride of the white men 
 giving way to this financial argument, and their annoyance 
 forming a comical contrast to the broad grin of the Africans. 
 
 From Wellington we proceeded in the Diamond Field waggon 
 through Baine’s Kloof, a pass which was made by military 
 labour in the first range of mountains which shuts in the lower 
 districts round about Cape Town. This road is very narrow, 
 but well made; the pass is high, and from its summit is seen a 
 wide range of country laid out like a map beneath. 
 
 On the rocks in Baine’s Kloof are carvings and paintings 
 delineating the ostrich, the chamois, and other animals, 
 executed no doubt by the Bushmen, who probably inhabited 
 these rugged fastnesses at some former time. 
 
 After descending the mountain we crossed a river, the road 
 being so narrow at one place that we were detained for a 
 considerable time, a waggon having broken down exactly at the 
 most inconvenient spot. 
 
 Here the railway works were progressing, many hundreds of 
 natives from different parts of Africa being employed upon them. 
 The daily fights amongst these people (who were overpaid, and, 
 though new to spirits, drank them with avidity) were repre¬ 
 sented as so fearful that no European dared to interfere. Their 
 heads are so hard that they are said to show but small signs of 
 uneasiness when belaboured by the stoutest of cudgels. One 
 of our English navvies said to me, “ Lor, sir ! you may thrash 
 them for a week and they don’t mind it; they will come on 
 and galox you, and worry you like a mastiff; your only chance 
 is to have Dick Stivets (or iron-shod boots), they mind them, I 
 warrant.” These blacks are the amiable, enlightened youths 
 that the Cape Colonial Government permitted to return to their 
 native pastures, each carrying a rifle or a gun, saying that they 
 
III.] 
 
 SACRAMENTAL OCCASIONS. 
 
 25 
 
 could not even imagine harm, and much less would they use 
 their weapons against the white man. 
 
 We now ascended by the pass to the village of Ceres. Here 
 and there a stately secretary bird was walking, casting its eyes 
 on either side, looking for the snakes, upon which it feeds. 
 Very properly a penalty is imposed upon people who kill these 
 destroyers of noxious animals. 
 
 We saw hundreds of natives, almost every one with his 
 bottle of “ Cape Smoke,” and no wonder, as these savages earn 
 from 4s. to 6s. per day. 
 
 The village of Ceres is prettily situated at the summit of 
 the kloof, on the road leading into the Karoo. As it was the 
 period of the Nacht Mael (or Holy Sacrament) the town was 
 thronged with visitors, who came to attend the festival, a 
 religious ceremony which takes place at each quarter of the 
 year, and is seldom neglected. 
 
 Returning from Ceres down through the valley, we took the 
 road to Worcester, and came across a herd of Raeterick, which 
 were not so wild as I had expected. Towards evening we 
 entered Worcester. It is a rising town, exceedingly well 
 watered, and reminded me much of an American city. 
 
 Mr. Cox, the Commissioner, received us with much kindness 
 and attention ; he was residing in a large house, the property 
 of the Government, which had been built by Lord Charles 
 Somerset, when Governor of the colony. It is said to have 
 cost 38,OOOZ., and even that sum did not finish it; but this was 
 before the days of legislative assemblies. 
 
 Strictures are made with regard to the extravagance of the 
 government of Lord Charles Somerset. Some of these may 
 be true, but few Governors of the colony can lay claim to 
 having bestowed upon it greater benefits. To him is due the 
 introduction into the country of some of the blood of the 
 English racing stables, so that the Cape horse is now looked 
 upon as one of the best in the world. 
 
26 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 I saw a very old woman working in the garden, and was in¬ 
 formed that she was the person who, when a girl, had given 
 information to the Government concerning an outbreak among 
 the natives. Upon that occasion many white people were 
 killed, whilst many blacks afterwards suffered the extreme 
 penalties of the law. She was very old—nearly a hundred— 
 it was said, but she was still employed in the garden, drying 
 peaches and plums. 
 
 Property at Worcester has very much increased in value, a 
 natural consequence of opening up the country by the railroad. 
 
 During the first years of my residence at the Cape, few if 
 any sanitary precautions were observed, and my utmost exer¬ 
 tions with the Colonial Government or the City Commissioners 
 failed to have any effect. In my four years of command I only 
 succeeded in causing one drain to be covered in near the 
 Castle, and this was in exchange for a permission highly 
 advantageous to the Railway Company. On the arrival, how¬ 
 ever, of his Excellency Sir Bartle Frere, energetic steps were 
 taken for the improvement of the drainage of the city. Very 
 little pains had been taken about the supply of water, though 
 the town possesses facilities for this purpose scarcely known in 
 any part of the world. New tanks are now in progress, and 
 if they are sufficiently capacious, they will prove invaluable; 
 water can be readily stored and easily supplied to any 
 part or to any building, however lofty. The reason of this 
 carelessness is that the merchants, who have no thought for the 
 improvement of the community at large, reside at a distance 
 from the town. Their families, therefore, do not suffer from 
 these inconveniences, and the shopkeepers, as a rule, retain too 
 much of the old Dutch lethargy and economy to take any 
 step which would cause increased taxation; even though it 
 might add to the health and wellbeing of themselves and their 
 children. Some years since whole families were poisoned by 
 the lead of the water-pipes from the tanks, yet, at this 
 
III.] 
 
 A MALAY WITH TWO WIVES. 
 
 27 
 
 moment, the same old lead pipes are used in many places to 
 conduct the Mater through the city. 
 
 Although the Malay can live inexpensively upon fish, a 
 large snook of 5 lb. or 6 lb. weight, the common article of their 
 diet, costing only a penny or at most twopence, they have 
 many expenses to meet. Every man who is above the ex- 
 tremest poverty indulges in the luxury of at least two wives, 
 each of whom keeps her own establishment. These wives 
 enjoy their holidays, are very fond of dress, and frequently 
 insist upon picnic parties, which entails the necessity of hiring 
 carriages for the country trip. 
 
 I was amused on one occasion by observing a Malay with 
 his two wives choosing dresses. He placed himself between 
 them, and, selecting the handsomest fabric for the younger 
 and prettier, he put the other off with a less enticing and 
 much cheaper article. Wives, hoM'ever, are of considerable 
 value. As a rule, they are not only required to keep them¬ 
 selves, but frequently to give a handsome sum of money 
 weekly to their husbands. A washerwoman whom we em¬ 
 ployed gave up 1 1. per week to her husbaud, and they are 
 expected occasionally to pay all the expenses of the picnics, in 
 which most of their earnings are spent. 
 
 Ou our arrival at the Cape the grape season had just com¬ 
 menced. Very fine grapes, apparently Black Hambro’, were 
 to be purchased at one penny per pound. These were sent in 
 large quantities up the coast to Port Elizabeth and Natal, as, 
 singularly enough, the change in the climate between the 
 eastern and western portions of the colony is so great, that in 
 the former the vine Mill not flourish. 
 
 Fish also M as very plentiful, so much so that a Cape salmon 
 of 10 lb. or 12 lb. weight could be purchased for Qd. or 8 d., and 
 other fish at a proportionately low price. Crayfish, M'hich 
 weigh 4 lb. or 5 lb. each, and which, when in season, are nearly 
 as good as lobsters, are usually sold for a halfpenny a-piece. 
 
28 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 It is said that crayfish are not good to eat when the moon 
 is full. I endeavoured to find out the reason of this, but 
 failed to do so, though I imagino it may be because they 
 feed at spring-tides upon mussels and other fish, which, when 
 thrown on the beach, are exposed to the sun, and soon become 
 decayed. 
 
 I am bound to say, however, that the fish of the southern 
 are most inferior to those of the northern hemisphere; and 
 some of the mussels are very poisonous. On one occasion five 
 warehousemen died through eating them, the effect being 
 almost as rapid as that of prussic acid. 
 
 The cheapness of fish is one of the great reasons of the 
 independence of the labour market. While the colony is pros¬ 
 pering and labour is in request, the Malays, who at Cape Town 
 are the principal source from which it is drawn, can buy 
 their daily food in plenty for 4cZ. or 5 d .; and as they love ease 
 better than work, they keep up the rate of v-ages to 4s. and 
 5s. a day. The Legislature firmly set their face against the 
 importation of coolies from China, the reason they give being 
 that it would demoralise the community in general. The advo¬ 
 cates for its introduction cannot obtain a voice in the House 
 of Assembly. To breathe a syllable in its favour is sufficient 
 utterly to defeat the chance of any candidate for parliamentary 
 favour in Cape Town, where elections are determined to a 
 great degree by the Malay element. 
 
 Household servants, of the most ignorant class, are not to be 
 obtained much under 4 1. per month, in addition to their food, 
 and women for not less than 3 1. These are the vilest of coolies, 
 the most slovenly and dirty of servants, and their immorality is a 
 blot to civilisation. My experience of the Chinese has proved 
 them to be as clean and intelligent as any servants in the 
 world. They combine the good qualities of the natives of 
 Hindostan with the quickness of the Yankee. 
 
 All sorts of absurd stories v'ere afloat about Cape Town 
 
III.] 
 
 CIUNAMEN AT CAPE TOWN. 
 
 20 
 
 concerning the Celestials, which were greedily devoured by the 
 unenlightened Dutch community. Amongst them was one that 
 caused a great sensation. It was said that some Chinamen who 
 arrived at San Francisco started a shop with a sausage-making 
 machine, but lacking capital to carry on the concern, two of 
 them agreed to murder the third, and turn him into sausages. 
 This was the beginning of their success in business. The story 
 was implicitly believed by many persons, who naturally desired 
 that so hideous a tragedy should not be repeated at the Cape, 
 and denounced the idea of allowing emigrant Chinese to enter 
 the colony. 
 
30 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 rcnAP. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SWELLENDAM. 
 
 The next part of the country in the neighbourhood of Cape 
 Town which I visited, was Swellendam. We left the Welling¬ 
 ton line of railway at D- road, and after having passed 
 
 through the pretty village of Somerset West, we ascended 
 the mountains by Sir Lowry’s Pass. The road is a great work, 
 and one of immense utility; it is almost incredible that any 
 waggon could have mounted the side of the range of hills 
 before it was constructed. But a South African waggon, with a 
 team of thirty-two bullocks, can accomplish almost anything. 
 We stopped the first night at the house of Mr. Linden, the 
 proprietor of 20,000 acres of land. He could not speak a word 
 of English, so that our evening was naturally not a lively one. 
 He was the happy possessor of 13,000 sheep, and as their value 
 had risen in a few years from 2s. 6d. each to 11., his wealth had 
 increased very rapidly. 
 
 I saw large flocks of his sheep returning from pasturage, each 
 led by a fine white goat. Mr. Linden was happy and content 
 in his retired life, and though the town of Worcester was 
 situated only a few miles distant, he never had visited it. 
 Why should he ? he had no business there, and why should he 
 take the trouble to go ? His farm was a fine one ; it contained 
 the grasses of the three veldts, sweet, sour, and mixed, or dry, 
 wet, and equable, so that he had pastures for all seasons. 
 
 At Caledon we reached the mineral springs, where two 
 boiling fountains were issuing from the rock. 
 
IV.] 
 
 A DUTCII FARMER'S TEN-IN-HAND. 
 
 31 
 
 These mineral springs would make the fortune of their 
 owner in Europe, and may do so some day in Africa. Near 
 them lay a piece of ground well adapted for the cultivation of 
 tea. The warm ferruginous water could be brought to the soil, 
 and would conduce to the development of the plant. 
 
 At Swellendam we were hospitably received by Mr. Barry, 
 who has a large property botlx in the town and neighbourhood. 
 He recommended me to proceed further into the country, and to 
 mount the passes into the Karoo. I was very ready to do so, but 
 I doubted its being feasible, as every one told me we should find 
 neither lodging nor supplies. He assured me we should find both. 
 
 On leaving Swellendam we took an easterly course under the 
 mountain range which separated us from the Karoo or Bock 
 Yeldt. As we were driving out of the town, we met a waggon 
 with a team of ten horses, which a Dutch farmer (his nose 
 surmounted by a huge pair of green goggles) was conducting 
 with perfect ease. This ten-indiand passed us at a rapid rate. 
 He was assisted by a Hottentot, who sat beside him on the box, 
 with a whip resembling a 17-feet salmon-rod, which he wielded 
 with the utmost dexterity, touching-up any horse that his 
 master ordered him, exactly on the part that he considered 
 advisable. 
 
 A drive of about twenty miles brought us to the foot of the 
 Southey Kop. There we found a well-furnished, comfortable 
 hotel, where we breakfasted, and shortly after, ascending the 
 mountain, reached the far-famed Karoo. 
 
 The road is a fine one. It was executed under the auspices 
 of Mr. Santhey, late Colonial Secretary, and does credit both to 
 him and to the colony. Prison labour constructed it; an 
 excellent way of employing the services of those who would 
 otherwise have been a burden on the Cape community. 
 
 We passed the afternoon buck-hunting on the hillside, 
 shooting a great many buck. At night we slept at a farmhouse 
 on the Slopes. 
 
32 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 On the following day we were fortunate enough to see a few 
 of the long-snouted baboons that inhabit these mountains, and 
 are said to be very wicked and voracious. They worry dogs 
 whenever occasion offers, and it is said that they will even 
 attack a man. In the evening we were comfortably lodged 
 and well treated; and the next day, when I made inquiries 
 for the landlord and the bill, I discovered that the house, 
 usually empty, had been furnished on the previous night; 
 everything it contained having been sent in a waggon by 
 Mr. Barry, whose hospitality we were still enjoying. 
 
 A number of the neighbouring proprietors, all Dutch, met 
 us on the hill, each armed with his long gun, which his father 
 may possibly have carried against the natives in the days of 
 the Commandos. Our hunt was, however, very unfortunate. 
 Dogs of all breeds, from the pure wolf to the lapdog, assisted 
 in the amusement, covering the hillside, and yelping for 
 pure spite. The deer, many miles distant, took the alarm, and, 
 beyond an occasional glimpse, were never to be seen again. 
 A dinner finished up the day, every kindness being shown to 
 us by Mr. Moodie and his sister. On the following day we 
 returned to Cape Town. 
 
 A subject of great magnitude and interest which attracted 
 my attention was the defence of the Imperial harbours in 
 South Africa. Should any accident occur to the Suez Canal, 
 should it be destroyed or even rendered temporarily impassable 
 in time of war, trade with our immense possessions in the 
 East would be disturbed. It would be requisite, then, that our 
 ships should adopt the alternative route by the Cape of Good 
 Hope; thus returning to the line which was interrupted by 
 the successful efforts of Mons. Lesseps. 
 
 There are three possible positions for harbours of defence 
 for the British navy, Simon’s Bay, Saldanha Bay, and Cape 
 Town. I visited each of them, in order to study their 
 relative advantages. 
 
IV.] 
 
 THE HARBOURS IN THE COLONY. 
 
 33 
 
 A careful inspection of Saldanha Bay leaves but little doubt 
 that it does not possess the advantages of Simon’s Bay. A 
 crippled vessel would have the greatest difficulty in making the 
 harbour with a foul wind, as it could not then get in without 
 the assistance of a tug. The same objection applies to Cape 
 Town; but an entrance into the inner bay at Simon’s Town 
 can be effected during all winds. In a fair wind the vessel, 
 with her yards squared, runs directly from her moorings. In 
 a foul wind, she makes the coast on one tack, and is then sure 
 to find a wind off-shore which will bring her to her berth. 
 There is a want of fresh water at Saldanha Bay, which it would 
 be difficult to remedy, and in my opinion it is best adapted 
 for its present use, viz. a quarantine station. 
 
 Assisted by the superior officer of the Royal Engineers and 
 Artillery, and under instructions from home, a board was con¬ 
 vened, and after an exhaustive inquiry plans were submitted 
 for the improvement of the various town defences. These have 
 received the approval of the authorities, and, if executed, they 
 will defend our shipping in a very satisfactory manner. 
 
 When we reflect upon the enormous amount of British 
 commerce which is carried on with India, China, and Australia, 
 and with many other British possessions, it would be madness 
 to leave to chance the defence of one of the great resting- 
 places on the alternative route to the East. 
 
 Berg Island, which lies opposite to Saldanha Bay, is in¬ 
 habited chiefly by rabbits, sea-birds, and enormous locusts. 
 The ground is thickly strewn with the eggs of gulls aud pen¬ 
 guins, and the right of collecting which is leased for 25 1. per 
 annum. There are many guano islands off the coast, and as 
 the rainfall is slight on the western seaboard, guano is 
 abundant. The proprietor of one of them is said to realise 
 profit from 8000Z. to 10,000?. a-year. He received this important 
 right in exchange for some land at Cape Town, at a time when 
 the Cape Government was poor and unable to pay cash. 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 On my return from Saldanha Bay I visited a large Dutch 
 farmhouse, near the Berg rivei% with extensive out-buildings, 
 the property of Mr. Kotsee. He received us with the greatest 
 hospitality, ejecting most of his own family from their rooms 
 to find us accommodation. 
 
 In the evening every inmate of the house joined at the 
 supper table. The master and mistress, with their guests, sat 
 above the salt. The junior members of the family and the 
 Dutch servants sat below it. Good wines and choice meats 
 were served to those in the former position; while those in the 
 latter were helped afterwards, and contented themselves with 
 the rough wines of the country. 
 
 At a short distance from the house ran the Berg river, 
 navigable even beyond Mr. Kotsee’s property. We were in¬ 
 terested by his account of the last sea-cow which he had shot 
 in the river. For some years it had been respected as a 
 curiosity, but at last it became so ferocious that it attacked and 
 killed two men. A hue and cry was then raised and ; it was 
 ultimately killed. We saw the enormous teeth of the monster, 
 and could readily imagine what a formidable brute it must have 
 been. 
 
 On the following morning our host prepared for buck 
 shooting. The Dutch are first-class hands at this sport, 
 which is always carried on on horseback, and their horses 
 by constant practice become perfectly trained. Mr. Kotsee 
 mounted me upon his favourite mare. Good as she was, she 
 managed, however, to tumble into a deep sand-hole, and sent 
 me flying over her head, gun and all. But the sand was so 
 soft and yielding, that in one minute I was again in the saddle, 
 unhurt, and ready as ever for the sport. 
 
 The Dutch generally use a very long smooth-bore gun 
 which we should regard as unwieldy and difficult to shoot with. 
 Considerable practice is required to handle it, but it has this 
 advantage, that, being long, it is impossible to fire into your 
 
IV.] 
 
 AN OFFICER'S PETS. 
 
 35 
 
 own horse’s head, as has occasionally happened with the slioit 
 English double-barrelled weapon. They load these guns with 
 swan-shot or very small pistol bullets, the charge weighing about 
 one ounce. 
 
 The sportsmen proceed in line, one flank slightly in advance. 
 The instant the buck, generally a Diker, starts out of the 
 bush, the well-trained horse stops perfectly still, thus giving 
 an opportunity to the rider for a shot, which with these Dutch¬ 
 men generally takes effect, as they are almost daily accustomed 
 to this sport from their youth upwards. 
 
 The day was so hot, it being in the middle of December, the 
 hottest month in the year, that I did not remain many hours 
 on the veldt, but before cpiitting the party we had killed 
 about a dozen deer. 
 
 During the day we saw some wild ostriches. A heavy fine 
 is set upon their destruction. In the breeding season their 
 nests aie sought out and carefully watched night and day by 
 Hottentots until the young ones are hatched, when they are 
 immediately caught, and brought up under turkeys or tame 
 ostriches. I saw a curious instance of this at Swellendam, 
 where an ostrich, three weeks old, and twice the size of its 
 foster-parent, was carefully tended by an old turkey hen. 
 
 Leopards, which formerly were very numerous, are not 
 unfrequently met with on these dry plains. They are destroyed 
 by poisoned meat. An officer of the garrison purchased a pair, 
 and requested permission to bring them into his quarters in 
 the castle; but, as there were many young children of the 
 Royal Artillery in the barrack, he was refused. He therefore 
 left them in charge of a Malay in the neighbourhood. On 
 going to claim them the Malay said, much to the owner’s 
 consternation, “ There are the pair, but one has eaten the 
 other!” 
 
 Mr. Kotsee employed a good many men on his farm, all 
 natives. Their wages were 2s. 6cl. a man per day, in addition 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 to a cottage and two pints of wine, with full rations of meat 
 and flour. Think of that, ye labourers of Great Britain! 
 
 Mr. Kotsee very naturally regretted the olden days when 
 each farmer possessed his slaves. It was by them that the 
 fine old farmhouses with their ample out-buildings were 
 erected, and by their labour that the old Dutch proprietor 
 cultivated his wines, and bred his sheep and his horses. He 
 might then, indeed, consider himself lord of all he surveyed. 
 
 The fishing station at the mouth of the Berg river on St. 
 Helen’s Bay is of considerable importance, employing 800 
 men. Mr. Kotsee’s brother caught 30,000 fish there in a few 
 days, and sold them for 10s. per hundred. The number of 
 crayfish caught on this coast is perfectly surprising; they 
 average 5 lbs. weight, and are generally sold in Cape Town for 
 Id. each. 
 
 There are large farms in this district for horse breeding. 
 Mr. Melkes pays great attention to the subject; he owns about 
 300 mares, and has imported some first-rate blood-horses from 
 England. Of late years the wear and tear of horses at the 
 Cape has been enormous. 
 
 On the discovery of the Diamond Fields a rush was made to 
 them from all parts of the colony. Animals of two years old 
 even were pressed into the service, and scenes of the greatest 
 cruelty took place. The poor beasts, driven for hours and 
 deprived of food and water, sunk by scores upon the roads 
 running through the wild Karoo. But horses were then cheap 
 and the reward at the fields very great, and the cry was, 
 “ Perish all, but let us snatch the prize before it is too late.” 
 This wholesale destruction, and the necessity of replacing those 
 used-up, made horses reach fabulous prices; so that for a 
 team of four, which I could certainly have purchased for 20Z. 
 a piece on my first visit to the Cape in 1842, 80Z. each was 
 now demanded. Such high prices naturally produced a desire 
 on the part of the farmers to increase their Stock, which re- 
 
IV.] 
 
 HORSE BREEDING. 
 
 37 
 
 quires time. I have no doubt, however, that breeding will be 
 profitable, and that ere long a considerable importation will 
 take place of Cape horses into England. It is calculated that 
 horses can be bred in South Africa, and raised to the age of 
 four years old at a cost of about 4?. each. Taking into account 
 the expense of sending them home, the death of some, and 
 other casualties, they certainly can be landed in London at 
 about 20?. per head. They would fetch on an average 40?. or 
 perhaps 60?. a piece, and a considerable profit would remain to 
 the breeder or importer. 
 
 Formerly there was a large exportation of horses to India, 
 and inquiries from that country have been lately made on the 
 subject, the demand being for the purpose of remounting 
 cavalry, but the Cape cannot now supply them. There has 
 been a murrain or horse sickness, which has proved fatal, 
 especially in the large horse-breeding districts in the north of 
 the colony and the Transvaal. 
 
 There was a report that her Majesty’s cavalry were to be 
 mounted under an arrangement different from the old system, 
 by which each commanding officer was to be charged with 
 providing the horses for his regiment, and that in future the 
 whole were to be selected under a general officer specially 
 charged with this duty. Steps might certainly be taken for 
 forming a depot in South Africa at which horses could be col¬ 
 lected, and a certain number embarked by every mail steamer. 
 I see no reason why excellent animals, with strength, breeding, 
 and every requisite qualification, should not be supplied to our 
 troops at home at an average price, including every expense, of 
 30?. or 33?. per horse. When this becomes known there is little 
 doubt but that successful speculations will be made for the 
 supply of the London market. 
 
 When I commanded a division of the Bombay army in 
 Scinde, my best batteries were horsed with Cape horses, brought 
 over under an arrangement made by the Governor of Bombay, 
 
38 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. IV. 
 
 Sir George Clark, who, having been Commissioner on the settle¬ 
 ment of the Orange Free State boundary, and being himself a 
 first-rate horseman, wisely took measures to import these excel¬ 
 lent animals into India. Many of the Dutch farmers near Cape 
 Town have a great dislike to sell their horses. It frequently 
 happens that a farmer possesses a far larger number than he 
 can possibly require and yet nothing can induce him to part 
 with one. He looks upon it as a sort of degradation ; he is 
 proud of possessing them and of showing them, but he will not 
 hear of selling them. The boys of South Africa are lament¬ 
 ably deficient in truth-telling: I saw many instances of this. 
 A lad who was driving my waggon, told me with pride how 
 he had cheated a horsedealer by tjing a cord round a horse’s 
 leg, so as to produce artificial lameness. I remember that on 
 one occasion great offence was given by a sermon preached 
 upon the subject of lying, by the Dean of Cape Town. I fear 
 that the anger it occasioned was greatly increased by the con¬ 
 sciousness that it was deserved. 
 
 One of the amusements most enjoyed in the cool season at 
 Cape Town was hunting with fox-hounds, the property of the 
 24th Kegimeut. 
 
 There were plenty of foxes in the low-lands between Table 
 and False Bays. The hounds were often taken to a greater 
 distance, the dogs, horses, and horsemen, remaining at the house 
 of some hospitable farmer. These hospitalities were returned 
 by the officers, who at the termination of the season gave a 
 grand entertainment to the farmers, which was very much 
 appreciated. They showed much amazement at the mess dinner 
 and plate. On one occasion a farmer whose plate had been 
 changed more than once could contain his surprise no longer, 
 and exclaimed, “ What another clean plate ! why, I have had 
 six already and is there another still ? ” 
 
( 39 ) 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 BOUND FOR THE EASTERN FRONTIER. 
 
 In the spring of 1874 I made my first tour of inspection into 
 the interior of South Africa, and these tours eventually extended 
 to many thousands of miles. They were most interesting and 
 professionally valuable to myself, but the knowledge which 
 I obtained was in the sequel, not very advantageous, as my 
 experiences caused me to differ widely from the responsible 
 advisers of the Cape Colonial Government. What I learned 
 made me draw certain conclusions, which were too frequently 
 verified, but the fact of my honestly avowing them was so 
 distasteful that it procured me enemies, whose animosity 
 grew more bitter uhen it became apparent that my forecasts 
 had been correct. 
 
 On the 6th of May, I left Table Bay in the Union Com¬ 
 pany’s steamer Syria, with my military secretary and one 
 aide-de-camp. 
 
 One of our passengers was part owner of the new Bush 
 Diamond Mine at Kimberley, and had visited Cape Town for 
 the purpose of selling it. He had made the purchase two 
 years previously from a Dutch farmer, at the fabulous sum, as 
 it then appeared to the Dutchman, of 6000?. The price he 
 now asked was 120,000?. In the following year 100,000?- 
 was actually paid to the owners, and at that price it was, in my 
 opinion, a most judicious purchase. 
 
 About 6 p.m. we passed Bobben Island. This small tract of 
 land has been devoted to many useful purposes by the Govern- 
 
40 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 meat. Political prisoners have there usually found their com¬ 
 pulsory home. Many of the Kafir chiefs who rebelled in the 
 war of 1846 were kept in durance there, and some who are 
 now at large, and were foremost in the late rebellion spent 
 years there. 
 
 Bobben Island is also the abode of the lunatics of the Cape 
 Colony. They are represented as seldom violent or intract¬ 
 able. Indeed one of them was especially useful to the sports¬ 
 men who went over periodically to shoot rabbits and quails. 
 His services were always employed, for he possessed the 
 qualities of the most sensitive of pointers. He was able to 
 distinguish, with wonderful perception, the exact hiding-place 
 of the quail, which he carefully approached and indicated to 
 the sportsman, as well as the best trained sporting dog could 
 have done. If, however, two or three birds were missed, he 
 would return to his home disgusted with the sportsman’s 
 incapacity, and nothing could induce him to give further 
 assistance. But if he found that he was attending upon a 
 proficient in the art he would willingly hunt the whole day. 
 
 Bobben Island is tixrned to a third purpose, that of 
 sheltering lepers, wretched outcasts, cursed with the most 
 hideous form of disease that mankind can bear. This island 
 cannot therefore be looked upon as a paradise. 
 
 A magnificent view of Table Mountain is obtained from the 
 sea, and as the evening sun lit up the distant landscape with 
 its rays the bold outline of that celebrated plateau loomed 
 grandly from the closing shades. The lights of receding Cape 
 Town danced gaily on the rising surf, and an ominous whistling 
 through the rigging gave promise of a rough reception off the 
 Cape of Good Hope, known of old as the “Cape of Storms.” 
 
 On the evening of the 7th we lauded at Port Elizabeth, and 
 w'ere hospitably received by Colonel Wyld. There is no harbour 
 here, only an open roadstead, but Sir John Coode, in his 
 able report, has recommended that a breakwater or protector, 
 
V.] 
 
 THE ELEPHANT IN SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 41 
 
 after the plan of the one at Plymouth, should be placed in front 
 of the town. I have seen it stated that the requisite expense, 
 which would not exceed 900,0007., has been voted to meet it, 
 at a meeting of the Chamber of Commerce. Already the 
 commerce of Algoa Bay far exceeds that of Cape Town, 
 and as the merchants are more energetic and advanced Port 
 Elizabeth will probably become the foremost harbour in South 
 Africa. 
 
 As we expected an invitation to shoot bushbuck at Busliey 
 Park, we did not now tarry in the town, but proceeded to the 
 mansion of its warm-hearted proprietor, about eight miles 
 distant from Port Elizabeth. The country through which we 
 passed was quite open, but was said to have been one immense 
 forest eighty years ago. 
 
 The owner of Bushey is a son of a settler of 1820, at which 
 time the Government took energetic steps to send emigrants 
 to Africa. They landed on the eastern portion of the colony, 
 and this is the reason why so many English families are located 
 near Algoa Bay. There can be no doubt that in this forest of 
 the past there roamed large herds of elephants, as the bones 
 of these animals are being continually found in the kloofs and 
 watercourses. 
 
 We managed to kill six or eight bushbuck, and ate an excel¬ 
 lent lunch of venison, under a thick bush in the valley. On 
 our way back to the city we called at the house of Mr. Stewart, 
 Consul-General for the Mexican Republic. Here we met Mr. 
 Garland, who had just returned with two waggons containing 
 the produce of his successful hunting on the Zambesi, on which 
 expedition he had been absent for two years. He had started 
 with these two waggons and forty oxen. The fitting out of his 
 expedition must have cost him a considerable sum of money, 
 but he was well repaid, for he told me he had killed every 
 species of wild animal known in South Africa except the lion, 
 which he kept clear of. One hundred and fifty elephants had 
 
42 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 fallen to the rifles of himself' and friend. In one district alone 
 in which he shot, five hundred elephants had last year been 
 killed, and he felt sure that now that the Kafirs were being so 
 largely armed, not one single elephant would he found on this 
 side of the Zambesi in ten years time. To cross this river would 
 appear to be most difficult, as the natives will not permit sports¬ 
 men to do so. It is said that when Livingstone first crossed 
 he knelt down and publicly prayed. The Kafirs construed this 
 into the act of taking possession of the country, and became so 
 alarmed that they have now entirely closed this part of the 
 river against the white man. A few natives of the Zambesi 
 accompanied Mr. Garland to Port Elizabeth. Their astonish¬ 
 ment at seeing the ocean was not to be described, and it was 
 not less at the big ships they saw upon it. 
 
 Speaking of sporting, it is a singular fact that it is next to 
 impossible to breed dogs in this country. Nineteen out of twenty 
 die at an early age, and this becomes so disheartening that few 
 persons now attempt it. One dreadful malady, however, to 
 which dogs in Europe are subjected, is unknown in South 
 Africa. It is stated, upon the best authority, that no instance 
 of hydrophobia has ever appeared, which is the more singular 
 as the arid influences to which portions of this continent is 
 subjected are proverbial. 
 
 At Port Elizabeth the rate of labour was often higher than 
 at Cape Town, no less than 7s. a day, or even more, being paid 
 to the native Kafir for unloading lighters. Here was a contrast 
 which afforded me an opportunity for some professional reflec¬ 
 tions. The subaltern officers under my own command, many 
 of whom had paid nearly five hundred pounds for their 
 commission, exclusive of their education and other expenses, 
 were receiving from the State only 5s. 3 d. daily pay; and 
 a Suffolk labourer would be locked out for dreaming of asking 
 more than 13s. a week. These natives have learnt to be 
 very clever and cunning. It is stated that when the florin 
 
V.] 
 
 A SCOTCHMAN IN KAFIR LAND. 
 
 43 
 
 first came into use, a Scotchman of Port Elizabeth paid his 
 Kafirs in florins instead of half-crowns. The natives were 
 not long in finding out the trick, and now the florin is 
 universally known amongst them as the “ Scotchman.” The 
 wages of native servants are so high, and they are so inde¬ 
 pendent, that I heard it was sometimes difficult to get a 
 washerwoman even at 5s. a day. 
 
 I had made inquiries as to the best means of proceeding 
 to Grahamstown, eighty miles distant. No less than 40 1 . 
 was asked for the hire of a carriage to convey myself and staff 
 this short distance. I had therefore taken the precaution of 
 directing commissariat carts and mules from King William’s 
 Town to meet us. On the following morning, as we were 
 leaving, we observed the milk-boy going his rounds. His man¬ 
 ner of carrying the milk deserves mention. Over his head he 
 placed a sack with a hole for his head, and one for each arm. 
 At both front and rear were seen rows of pockets, in each of 
 which he had placed a bottle of milk—milk at the Cape being 
 invariably sold by the bottle. 
 
 The Cape Cart is an institution in South Africa. It is per¬ 
 fectly astonishing what it will hold and over what roads it 
 will travel. Ours was a cart on two w'heels with two seats— 
 it was drawn by six mules, excellent animals. In addition to 
 myself and two officers, it carried the driver, a large amount 
 of baggage, three rifles, two fowling-pieces, and a plentiful 
 supply of ammunition. In the second cart we placed our tent 
 and various boxes of preserved meats. These provisions are 
 absolutely essential in South Africa, whenever a journey is to 
 be undertaken, if the slightest deviation is to be made from 
 the high road, or beyond the immediate vicinity of the large 
 towns. We thus travelled more comfortably and less expen¬ 
 sively, though scarcely in so expeditious a manner as we might 
 have done in the regular stage-coach. 
 
 The conveyance is fitted with a strong pole, and harnessed 
 
44 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 like a curricle, a carriage which used to be very fashionable in 
 England sixty or seventy years ago. 
 
 Some of the mules were old, but very good. Before I left 
 South Africa many of them were changed, but I believe that I 
 sat behind one of them in my different journeys in this country 
 for more than eight thousand miles. 
 
 The next day we drove about forty miles. On the road we 
 met at least one hundred and fifty large waggons, each drawn 
 by a “ span ” of sixteen pairs of oxen abreast, thirty-two in all, 
 loaded with twenty-two bales of wool. On a rough calculation 
 the value of each load was about 700?. Thus we met upwards 
 of 100,000?. worth of wool in the day on its way to Port 
 Elizabeth. Most extraordinary sounds proceeded from the 
 drivers of these waggons. 
 
 On the plains by the side of the road we saw a few bustards, 
 and the blue Kafir crane, as well as many of those beautiful 
 birds, the Kafir finch. They are black, and brilliantly coloured 
 crimson or gold on the breast and under the "wings, with an 
 extremely long tail of but two feathers. Each male of the 
 species is accompanied by two females, small insignificant 
 creatures, not unlike the English wren. Thus, although they 
 are polygamists after the manner of the country, they are not 
 unreasonable in their indulgence. 
 
 \Ye saw many beautiful blue and other parti-coloured 
 birds, and met many Kafirs. I particularly remarked one 
 good-looking girl with a bundle on her back. On nearer 
 approach we discovered it to contain a baby, who was taking 
 his nourishment, which was easily and readily supplied, over his 
 mother’s shoulder, during the march. 
 
 When halfway to Grahamstown we were overtaken by Cobb’s 
 coach. These carriages are of American build, and under the 
 management of an American firm. They are very suitable to 
 the wants of the colony in its present state and are well filled 
 by passengers. I should imagine that the line must be profit- 
 
V.] 
 
 WASHING AND EARLY RISING 
 
 45 
 
 able, as the fare from Port Elizabeth to Kimberley, a distance 
 of about four hundred and fifty miles, is charged at the rate 
 of 18Z. for the single journey, with Is. 6d. per pound for all 
 luggage in excess of forty pounds. These coaches perform the 
 journeys in about five and a half or six days, and when all cir¬ 
 cumstances are taken into consideration, the badness of the 
 roads, the price of forage, the wear and tear of horses, &c., 
 the charge, which would appear excessive in Europe, cannot 
 be looked upon as out of the way in South Africa. 
 
 We met a well-laden waggon. The “ forelooper,” a boy 
 attending to the leading oxen, neglecting his duty, the bul¬ 
 locks dashed off the road, and the ponderous machine went 
 crashing down the steep banks. We could not, however, wait 
 to see what injury had occurred. The proprietor of the hotel 
 at Nazor had just returned from the Diamond Fields. Getting 
 tired of his non-success there, he had sold his claim for 15?., 
 from which the new owner had obtained 300?. worth of diamonds 
 on the morning after his departure, and in a very short time 
 afterwards thousands of pounds more. 
 
 I had been led to believe that the Africanders were early 
 risers, but on this and on many subsequent occasions 1 found it 
 just the reverse. It was with much difficulty we could get 
 the servants up in the morning to produce the requisite cup of 
 coffee. 
 
 Early ablutions are not in high favour in South Africa. 
 Indeed we were strongly advised against such pro ‘codings. 
 One colonial gentleman, who was thoroughly accustomed to 
 travelling in this country, said to me, “ General, be careful on 
 your journeys very seldom to wash your face, for there is 
 nothing which will cost you more annoyance or ultimate 
 discomfort.” The natives seldom indulge in what we are 
 pleased to consider a necessity, but they frequently substitute 
 for it a dust or sand bath. 
 
 It was here that a lady who had somewhat passed her 
 
46 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 ‘premiere jeunesse ,’ begged to be allowed to occupy a seat in 
 our second cart. Knowing the expense and difficulty of 
 finding any conveyance in this country, I had not the heart 
 
 to refuse. About seven miles from Grahamstown, Judge G- 
 
 with his six-in-hand, met us at the foot of the mountain. This 
 he did to bring us into the city in finer style. He handled 
 his ribbands artistically, and had promised himself a very 
 flourishing entry. Judge of his dismay as he observed this 
 elderly female, whom he took to be one of our party, and whom 
 he recognised as the ‘sage femme ’ of the city. The Judge not 
 only handled his reins like a practised whip but played on 
 the bugle like a cavalry trumpeter. He is as good a soldier 
 as he is a judge, and has edited several military books for the 
 militia, which are professionally very valuable. 
 
 If any town on the east of the Cape Colony can be called 
 old Grahamstown may lay claim to this distinction. It is 
 certainly the handsomest that has yet been built in that 
 country. The most dangerous moment for Grahamstown was 
 when it was attacked by Kafirs, about forty years ago. 
 
 It possibly might have been plundered and burnt, but for 
 the assistance of some hunters, who arrived by chance, and 
 helped the small garrison with their heavy rifles. It was 
 satisfactory to see the great progress which had been made 
 with the railway. In a few years it will be completed as far 
 as to the town. 
 
 The distance from Grahamstown to the port at the Kowie 
 is not more than thirty-five miles. A good deal of money has 
 been expended in the endeavour to create a harbour at Port 
 Alfred, but the water is so shallow for a considerable distance 
 from the shore that a really good and safe anchorage will 
 probably never be made for any but the smallest vessels. 
 
 I had wonderful accounts of the quail shooting near the 
 coast, which was stated to be then at its prime, so that a good 
 shot could easily kill from fifty to sixty brace of quail in a day. 
 
V. 
 
 DISTANCES AND TRAVELLING. 
 
 47 
 
 Good Sport.— A Journal has the following:-— 
 
 A city sportsman—perhaps we should term him a semi¬ 
 citizen—was successful in bagging no less than one hundred 
 and a-half brace of quail on Saturday last. The birds were 
 found on the Barville Park lands, near Port Alfred. The 
 same sportsman was nearly as successful some three seasons 
 ago, when he bagged ninety brace in one day. On five 
 consecutive occasions on Saturday, his shot-pouch returned 
 him twenty-five birds. Considering that the day’s pro¬ 
 gramme included nearly fifty miles of travelling, the above 
 is perhaps an unprecedented feat in this colony. 
 
 At Grahamstown I had the pleasure of making the acquaint¬ 
 ance of the Dean, a man of great ability, who has done much 
 service to the colony by his energy and his writings. His 
 advocacy of Federation, and of a provincial division of the 
 country, has induced people to look narrowly into the subject. 
 He has shown the colonists the benefits which would result to 
 South Africa by such measures. It was said that he is looked 
 upon by the Kafirs as a powerful rain-doctor. After a very 
 long drought, he caused special prayers for rain to be said in 
 the cathedral. Hardly had the congregation left the church 
 when plentiful showers set in, which the Kafirs at once set 
 down to magic. 
 
 Those who have been accustomed to move in railways in 
 Europe can scarcely realise the tedium of travelling in South 
 Africa. We were fortunate in being able to traverse the eighty 
 miles from Port Elizabeth in two days. Again, the distances 
 between military posts are little known at home. A story 
 is often told of a War Office official who desired to know the 
 reason why the chaplain at Grahamstown could not perform 
 his evening service at King William’s Town, being entirely 
 ignorant of the fact that the two cities are ninety miles 
 asunder. 
 
48 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 We passed by scenes historical in the old war, and which 
 have again become so in the recent one. 
 
 The hi oofs and gorges in the mountains and forests remain 
 unaltered, and demonstrate the perplexities of attack, and the 
 facilities of defence. The attack, more especially, is increased 
 in difficulty now that the Kafir is armed with a long shooting 
 weapon in lieu of the assegai, which though deadly at short 
 distances is ineffective beyond thirty or forty yards. 
 
 We forded the Great Kish river. It was stated to be low 
 and therefore not dangerous, but our mules were immersed up 
 to their shoulders, and our tent, which was strapped on behind 
 the cart, was soaked in water. I was not sorry when we 
 arrived at its eastern bank. When crossing this stream my 
 predecessor in command remarked to the ferryman upon the 
 danger incurred in passing it. The man answered that it only 
 required a bishop or a general to be drowned, to cause a good 
 bridge to be built. Before I left the colony a fine bridge 
 had been erected. 
 
 In the recesses of the forest we came upon a party of young 
 natives, who had been temporarily banished from their kraals, 
 and said to reside in the woods for the purpose of under¬ 
 going the rites of circumcision. These youths appeared to 
 be about fourteen years old. Their faces and bodies were 
 smeared with whitewash. The heads of some of them were 
 bound up in faggots of straw. Otherwise they were perfectly 
 naked. The full time of probation, during which they are 
 compelled to live in seclusion, is about five or six weeks. It 
 is a custom obligatory on the Kafir, and it is a point of honour 
 with him to show that he can bear the suffering without 
 evincing fear, otherwise he is branded as a coward. 
 
 At Debe Neck, near the south-west of the Amatola Moun¬ 
 tains, there is a singular feature to be observed in the excava¬ 
 tions of the “ Commitjee ”—a curious small worm, something 
 of the white-ant species. Many millions of these creatures are 
 
V.] 
 
 THE FRONTIER POLICE. 
 
 49 
 
 at work continuously, and succeed in forming large circular 
 holes on either side of the road, extending for several square 
 miles. They are generally about eight or ten feet in diameter, 
 and four feet deep. 
 
 By a handsome approach over the Buffalo river we entered 
 King William’s Town, 
 
 On the following morning my review parade was augmented 
 both by the mounted police and the volunteers, who turned out 
 in some numbers to assist in the military manoeuvres. 
 
 The Frontier Armed and Mounted Police, as they are dis¬ 
 tinctively called, are a special body, which was originally 
 formed by Sir George Cathcart, when Governor of the Cape, 
 at the termination of the war in 1S52. It was found, and 
 very naturally, that however valuable the services of the 
 Burghers might be, they were too irregular to be really 
 useful, so that it was absolutely requisite that the civil 
 magistrates should possess a force immediately available at 
 all times to repress disorders. The police force was in a 
 great measure composed of farmers’ sons, as the pay and 
 allowances which were granted were considered at that time 
 to be very handsome. A good horse could then be pur¬ 
 chased for 10?., meat was not more than 2d. per lb., and 
 everything else was in proportion. As years rolled on, 
 the Africander farmers’ sons would no longer enter the 
 service. Other fields of labour presented themselves, of 
 a much more lucrative character ; such as diamond and 
 gold digging, and transport riding (which means accom¬ 
 panying waggons to distant parts of the colony with mer¬ 
 chants’ goods). It became requisite to obtain young men 
 from England. The selection was left to the Colonial 
 Agent, possibly a clever man for civil duties, but not at all 
 acquainted with military ones, having no special knowledge 
 of our profession. He appears to have represented that the 
 lowest standard of pay in this force was from five to six 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA . 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 shillings a-day per man, so that he had no difficulty in 
 obtaining recruits. The men, however, found on their arrival 
 that deductions from this pay were made for the purchase 
 of horses, accoutrements, their own keep, that of their horses, 
 and other extraneous expenses. They came to the con¬ 
 clusion, therefore, that they had been deceived, and said 
 (with truth) that they were infinitely worse off than the 
 British soldier, for whom all these extras were provided by 
 Government. 
 
 A general discontent therefore pervaded the force, more 
 especially as it required two years in most cases before the 
 men could rid themselves of debt. Added to this, many of the 
 officers had grown old in the service, and were without much 
 hope of promotion. Although well acquainted with the country, 
 they had not been brought up to military habits. They could 
 command the quiet Dutch Boer, hut when this horde of 
 young Londoners were thrust upon them, with their knowing 
 ways and clever tactics, these civil officers were quite 
 disconcerted. There was scarcely more than one person 
 in the Civil Government who was well acquainted with the 
 manner of governing soldiers, and he was in a position far 
 removed from detailed interference, being the Under-Secretary 
 of the Government. It was impossible that the Under-Colonial 
 Secretary should be able to lend his own skill to those 
 in whose hands the force was placed, and the Government, 
 who had lately accepted the responsibility of it, were far too 
 jealous of their power to allow any military commander to 
 supervise, much less to command, the Frontier Armed and 
 Mounted Police. 
 
 The utmost they did was to request my inspection of the 
 force. I found it composed of a fine set of young men, 
 physically strong and robust. Three-fourths of their num¬ 
 ber appeared to be altogether ignorant of the very rudi¬ 
 ments of discipline, and, with some notable exceptions, 
 
V.] 
 
 CAPE COLONY TROOPS.' 
 
 51 
 
 neither the officers nor the non-commissioned officers had any 
 influence over the men. 
 
 I found the force, as a rule, miserably mounted, very indif¬ 
 ferently clothed, wretchedly armed and equipped, and wanting 
 in all the accessories necessary for taking the field. Upon all 
 these points I reported to the Colonial Government in 1874. 
 A few reforms were made subsequently; improvements took 
 place in the horses, and in the equipment and clothing; but the 
 command of the force, in my opinion, was not administered in 
 such a way as to produce the success which might naturally 
 have been expected. Unfortunately my fears were but too 
 well verified. When the war and rebellion of 1877 and 1878 
 broke out, the force was so utterly disorganised, that the 
 Colonial Minister of War, who at the time charged himself 
 with its supervision, informed me that, although he was 
 assisted by one of the cleverest military officers attached, 
 he was positively unable, after two months’ hard work, to dis¬ 
 cover the duties or even the whereabouts of fully 200 men out 
 of a force of 1100. 
 
 This was the only cavalry force at my command wherewith 
 to commence the war with Kreli, the Galeka chief, in a country 
 which is specially adapted for the employment of cavalry. 
 
 I had however, a small body of artillery, under an officer in 
 her Majesty’s service; but the guns were inadequately horsed, 
 and the carriages, which were constructed in the colony, broke 
 down on the first occasion on which they were used. 
 
5- 
 
 MY COMMAND JN SOUTH A FBI CA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 VOLUNTEER CAVALRY. 
 
 All the Volunteer Cavalry paraded on the occasion of my in¬ 
 spection at King William’s Town. I formed a high estimate of 
 them. Many of the farmers had been non-commissioned officers 
 in onr cavalry regiments, and I clearly saw that their influence 
 over the rest would be exercised for good if they were called 
 upon for active service, and that, if only they would pay defer¬ 
 ence to authority, they would be valuable in war. 
 
 The Infantry Volunteers, composed of the young men of busi¬ 
 ness in the city, would doubtless defend it with determination ; 
 but their services need not be relied upon for any concentrated 
 operations at a distance, as they cannot leave their homes. 
 The corps that eventually did valuable service in the Galeka 
 Land Campaign were principally recruited in the large cities, 
 but they were not composed of those members who had formerly 
 been enrolled in the Volunteer ranks, or of the young well-to-do 
 shopmen. 
 
 It became apparent that in case of need the colony lacked a 
 force upon which it could rely to put down incipient rebellion. 
 I forcibly represented this to the Government. I recommended 
 a militia upon the Canadian model, as a ready and inexpensive 
 method for meeting any difficulties that might arise. Already 
 the frontier settlers were becoming uneasy, as from the manners 
 of the natives they foresaw the coming struggle. 
 
 A very large sale of firearms, with but slender restrictions, 
 had been going on; the black man was arming—for what purpose 
 
YI.] 
 
 FIELD SPORTS FOR SOLDIERS. 
 
 53 
 
 it was scarcely difficult to divine. There was but little or no 
 game in the country, the reckless and wasteful habits of the 
 savage having destroyed it. My warnings, which were yearly 
 repeated, were however little heeded, being met with repeated 
 assurances that there never would be another Kafir war; and 
 as to arms, that the assegai was far more dangerous in the 
 hands of the native than a musket. 
 
 How sadly the reverse has been proved in the late war, 
 which has destroyed many a happy homestead! How few have 
 fallen or been injured by the assegai! how many brave men 
 have been shot down by the musket! 
 
 Early on the following morning the hounds met within a few 
 miles of King William’s Town. We had an excellent run of 
 an hour and a half, killing one buck. Believing in the value 
 of field sports to military men, I have always done my 
 utmost to encourage them. They strengthen the nerves, evoke 
 courage, give effect to natural intelligence, and are much 
 better than loitering round ike billiard table, or lounging on 
 the parades or streets of a town. It is most satisfactory to 
 see the general acceptation of these sentiments throughout 
 England. Some are even in favour of giving marks to phy¬ 
 sical excellence in competitive examinations, and not treating 
 mental acquirements as the only tests of fitness for military 
 service. 
 
 Towards the end of the week, under the auspices of the 
 Civil Commissioner, Mr. Kose Innes, an interesting and, to me, 
 novel event took place. A native buck hunt was organised in 
 the Peric Bush, an outlying portion of the Amatola range, 
 rendered memorable by its military and historical recollections. 
 
 The magistrate gave permission to certain chiefs to assemble 
 their men for the purpose of beating the bush for bucks. 
 Two thousand Kafirs joined in the hunt. The arrangement 
 was that they should drive the forest for three days—encom- 
 
54 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 passing a large extent of country, so that on the third day, 
 when the game was supposed to be driven to a centre, the 
 English officers and other invited guests being posted in ad¬ 
 vantageous positions might have a good chance of killing them. 
 
 The produce of the three days’ chase was about a hundred 
 and twenty head of different species, but only two or three of 
 these fell to the guns of the English sportsmen. The manner 
 in which the natives hunted them was this: No sooner was a 
 buck discovered in the bush than the Kafirs quickly formed 
 a ring round it, gradually tightening the cordon so as to 
 mob the animal in the centre. As they were dexterous with 
 the assegai and knobkerrie at short distances, it was easily 
 despatched. They immediately lighted a fire and, after a very 
 superficial cooking, they ate the game then and there. This 
 will account for the very short range of ground that was got 
 over during the day, as parties of natives were killing, 
 cooking, and eating the product of the chase in turn, and 
 little was brought out of the forest but the skins and horns. 
 
 When the hunt was concluded, these savages treated us to 
 a war-dance. Their heated bodies, begrimed with blood, added 
 in no small degree to the diabolical picture in this deep- 
 wooded glen, which became the scene of much bloodshed 
 towards the termination of the war. 
 
 It is difficult for one who has not visited South Africa to 
 realise the labour of threading one’s way through its thorny 
 jungles, but this became better understood when the Kafirs, 
 under Sandilli, subsequently ensconced themselves in these 
 fastnesses. 
 
 On my way home I was struck by the want of costume of 
 the natives. The men were ploughing and cultivating their 
 fields entirely in a state of nature. The women were simply 
 attired in a tiny apron, rather prettily adorned with beads_ 
 The weather was hot, and no doubt lortg habit had caused 
 them to consider this garb as suitable as well as pleasant. 
 
VI.] THE PURCHASE OF GUNS BY THE BLACKS. 
 
 55 
 
 Before leaving King William’s Town I had ample opportu¬ 
 nities of conversing with those who were well acquainted with 
 the natives both within the colony and in the semi-independent 
 states beyond. The general impression was that the natives 
 would not settle down without at least one more trial of their 
 strength, that the last war was only remembered by the old 
 men, and that the young chiefs now growing into manhood 
 felt themselves quite equal to the white man. An opinion 
 prevailed that we were afraid of them, and desired to court 
 and conciliate them. Otherwise why did we allow them to 
 extort such enormous wages for working on the railroad, two 
 and sixpence and three shillings a day, when the current rate 
 throughout the frontier, previous to these Government works, 
 had not been more than one shilling ? And why did we allow 
 to purchase arms and ammunition ? 
 
 This was an exceedingly dangerous state of things, and 
 there were few on the frontier who did not feel anxiety. Men 
 of experience and in high position all stated their conviction 
 that mischief was brewing. 
 
 Generally the Government policy of allowing the natives 
 to buy guns promiscuously was condemned by those resident 
 on the frontier. But a sort of infatuation possessed the people 
 in the West and the Colonial Ministry. The Prime Minister 
 stated in his speech at Sir John Goode’s public entertainment 
 that “ the frontier newspapers made these assertions as attacks 
 against the Ministry, and that the farmers on the frontier had 
 grown to be cowards ! ” 
 
 Restrictions against the possession of arms were enacted, but 
 they were so defective as not to he capable of explanation by 
 the highest law officers of the colony. In the opinion of some, 
 it was even lawful to kill a native who, being armed and 
 carrying no licence, attempted to resist disarmament; but others 
 contended that this offence could only be dealt with by a 
 lengthened process of law, and punished with a very small 
 
56 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 fine. The law was carried out in so lax a manner that 
 Kafirs on all sides (whether by permission or not) obtained 
 arms, and it was scarcely necessary that muskets should be 
 sold by traders under fictitious names, like that by which they 
 were known to the Kafirs, “ Baboons’ thighs.” 
 
 On Friday, the 22nd of May, we left King William’s Town. 
 
 At Fort Cunynghame and Grey town we came upon a large 
 number of Gaika Kafirs, who had come from their location to 
 enjoy themselves with Cape brandy, at the canteen or shop. 
 Numbers of them were lying on the ground, each with his 
 bottle beside him. 
 
 The facility with which these untamed savages can obtain 
 anv amount of villainous drink is one of the most fruitful 
 sources of danger. Some of the chiefs, being aware of the evil, 
 forbid canteens in their locations; and have repeatedly re¬ 
 quested that the same prohibition should be extended among 
 the adjoining districts. The answer of authority has always 
 been “that the natives should place a moral restraint upon 
 themselves, and not imbibe more than is beneficial; and that 
 trade cannot be impeded simply because it may engender 
 evil consequences amongst the natives.” 
 
 At the Dohne tollbar, some few miles beyond Greytown, the 
 Chief Sandilli met me by invitation. He was a tall, good- 
 looking man, and it is surprising how young he seemed for his 
 age, more especially as he is reputed to be continually under 
 the influence of liquor. He was delighted with the present I 
 made him of a large tartan rug, but he begged for some 
 spirits; and he asked for sixpence from each of my staff. I 
 cannot believe that the request for so trifling a sum was made 
 solely with the object of obtaining means for the temporary 
 enjoyment of a bottle of “ Cape Smoke.” I imagine it was as 
 a sort of recognition of his superiority before the bar of native 
 opinion, so that those about should see that he received a sort 
 of tribute even from the officers of the white men in the colony. 
 
VI.] 
 
 BLANKETS FOR KAFIRS. 
 
 57 
 
 The next time I met Sandilli was at Greytown, where he 
 was enjoying himself at the canteen with a circle of friends. 
 My son took a very good likeness of him there. I have 
 never seen him since, although I frequently hoped to have 
 done so as a prisoner in Robbeu Island. His acts of rebellion 
 justly entitled him to be lodged there. Towards the end 
 of the war this wretched chief was shot in his retreat at the 
 Perie Bush. 
 
 On the borders of Sandilli’s location there were five canteens 
 in about thirty-five miles of road. The sale of spirits in these 
 houses in the aggregate was considered to amount to about 
 two hundred and fifty gallons in the week, and it was stated 
 that at least 2000Z. passed over each small bar in the course of 
 the year. 
 
 We here first came upon the genuine Gaika Kafirs. They 
 do not now generally use the karofs, or prepared skins of the 
 tiger, wild deer, or fox, but adopt our blankets. They manipu¬ 
 late them in their own special way by mixing a quantity of 
 red clay with grease, with which they thickly smear the 
 blanket. By this process it acquires some of the properties 
 of the skin karofses which it has replaced. It keeps out the 
 cold, renders the covering almost waterproof, and makes it last 
 very much longer. The red clay is also stated to have the 
 effect of protecting the persons of the wearers from vermin, and 
 the ochre colour has not an unpleasant appearance, particu¬ 
 larly on the women, whose bodies resemble a well-cleaned 
 copper kettle. Many of the latter, however, now partially 
 adopt our ladies’ dress. A storekeeper at Peeltown told me 
 that he excited the cupidity of a Kafir by telling him, that 
 if he refused to purchase a lady’s bodice at U. 17s. he 
 
 would give it to his own wife. Upon this the native said 
 
 “No ; it having been offered to him he had a right to 
 
 buy it,” paid the money at once and took it away to his own 
 
 location. 
 
58 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The Bontebok flats consist of excellent agricultural lands, 
 but they are not now tilled, or very partially so. 
 
 Some years since a Company was started for the purpose of 
 establishing farming and horse-breeding on them. The finest 
 of mangels and turnips were grown, and excellent horses of 
 first-class English blood were bred; but all enterprise in the 
 Cape Colony was then stagnant, the Diamond Fields had not 
 been discovered, there was no call for horses, no war to require 
 them in India or Europe, and but little demand for fat mutton. 
 Thus the enterprise fell through, involving its originators in a 
 very considerable loss. 
 
 We stopped for the night at Pusey’s Hotel, immediately 
 over the Kei river. Here we met with some gold diggers 
 returning from Pilgrims’ Best in the Transvaal. They showed 
 us some nuggets, each three or four ounces in weight, averaging 
 in value about 4 1. sterling per ounce; but they all seemed to 
 agree that the labour of extracting them was out of all propor¬ 
 tion to their value. In this opinion a subsequent visit that I 
 made to these far distant gold regions induced me to concur. 
 
 All the ground we were now traversing became the arena of 
 constant contention during the war of 1878. We were on the 
 borders of the Amatolas, to the kloofs and forests of which the 
 Kafirs are sure to retire in the event of being pressed. 
 
 A few miles beyond Tylden, and near a station which was 
 occupied for their young recruits by the mounted police, we 
 came to the Kranz or rocky defiles, renowned for the drawings 
 of the Bushmen. 
 
 These diminutive people have long since retired from this 
 portion of the country or have been exterminated. Their 
 hand was against every one. They appear to have been irre¬ 
 claimable, and the hand of every one was against them. These 
 pigmy savages never erected houses or kraals wherein to shelter 
 themselves, but made use of caves in the sides of the moun¬ 
 tains. They held ready near the mouth of these holes a bush, 
 
VI.] 
 
 THE BUSHMEN'S BOCK DBA WINGS. 
 
 59 
 
 which they dragged after them when they entered; peering 
 through the intervening spaces from behind, they readily fired 
 their small poisoned arrows at any one who might be passing, 
 with deadly effect; nor was it often easy to discover whence 
 these arrows came. 
 
 As long as the Bushmen (Bosjesmans, as they were called by 
 the Dutch) were in this country it is said that no man could 
 travel with safety. They stealthily approached when least 
 expected and, with murderous aim, shot an arrow into their 
 victim. When they could not steal or carry off his horse, they 
 shot at the animal, which at first showed no signs of injury, but 
 ultimately, with fatal certainty, it had to be left on the Veldt 
 to perish. When the traveller left, the horse was eaten by 
 these incarnate savages, while the flesh was yet warm and 
 quivering. 
 
 Very few are now to be met with in the colony, as nearly 
 the last of them were said to have been destroyed about the 
 year 1871 by an expeditionary force under Malappa, a son of 
 Moshesh, the Basuto, in the lower spurs of the Drakensberg. 
 
 The men would not surrender, and were killed. 
 
 Some of the women were caught and sent into the colony, 
 where they were apprenticed to farmers. 
 
 How strange it is that these creatures, so low in the social 
 scale, should have possessed artistic skill superior to most 
 savages! They have portrayed on the rough rocks scenes 
 of the chase and of native customs with such vigour, with 
 a few colours of so permanent a character, that the spectator 
 might take them for rough first sketches by some untrained 
 artist, executed only a short while since. 
 
 Each animal is characteristically rendered, and the manner 
 of chasing and securing it, with the figures of those who assisted 
 in running it down, are faithfully shown. 
 
 Possessing such admirable talents in so high a degree, these 
 people were yet incapable of attempting the erection of any 
 
60' MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. 
 
 description of house, but sheltered themselves in such caverns 
 and rocky niches as nature happened to provide. 
 
 Some of these drawings include forty or fifty figures, correctly 
 representing the chase of the lion, the eland, the rhinoceros, the 
 gnu, the blesbok, and many other wild animals, all vigorously 
 drawn and coloured in a species of distemper. 
 
 These little people aie described as wonderful hunters, their 
 sense of sight being scarcely surpassed by that of the eagle, or 
 their sense of hearing by that of the wolf. Their hardihood and 
 endurance far surpassed that of any animal of the field, while 
 their cunning and adroitness was only equalled by the fox. 
 
 Queenstown is a pleasant town. It was originally laid out 
 liexagonally, somewhat in the form of an American House of 
 Correction, so that every approach could be readily observed, 
 and a cannon so placed that it could be turned on any avenue 
 of attack. This plan was abandoned as the town increased, so 
 that a fire can now be readily directed upon the market-place, 
 the central point, from the houses which have been built out¬ 
 side it. 
 
 As a stronghold it is badly situated, being built immediately 
 below a commanding line of hills. It seems to be progressing 
 in wealth, and the railway, which will reach it in a few years, 
 will cause it to develop rapidly, especially if the harbour at 
 East London should prove a success. In that case the line 
 will probably be extended to the Free State by way of 
 Aliwal; though if it were made to pass by Bergersdorp, the 
 necessity of constructing a bridge over the Caledon river 
 would be avoided. 
 
 It was with some anxiety that I called for the account 
 at the hotel at Queenstown ; but I was reassured when I found 
 that only 51. was asked for myself and staff for the night, 
 more especially as I had been told that no less than 105Z. 
 had been charged to the Luke of Edinburgh for one night’s 
 lodging, with entertainment for himself and staff. 
 
VI.] 
 
 HOTEL CHARGES IN THE COLONY. 
 
 61 
 
 It is frequently supposed by hotel keepers that the expenses 
 of all officers and Government servants are met by the Govern¬ 
 ment, and in all newly-settled colonies the Government is 
 universally regarded as a tree from which everybody is entitled 
 to pluck fruit. 
 
 The charges at Queenstown are known to be exorbitant, but 
 I do not think that they are generally so on the eastern side 
 of the colony. On the western, amongst the Dutch, they are 
 so, for the English officer is specially looked upon there as fair 
 game, whom it is right to spoil as far as possible. 
 
 It is reported that a late Governor, when travelling in the 
 west, was charged 20 1. for a common breakfast at an hotel; he 
 remarked to the landlord that eggs must be very scarce and 
 dear in those parts. The answer was, “No, but Governors are 
 both scarce and dear, and it is a pity that they are not more 
 frequently to be met with ! ” 
 
 Loyalty to her Majesty is proverbial throughout the colony. 
 In Queenstown the respect for our Queen was so great that 
 the barber refused to desecrate her birthday by cutting my 
 hair. 
 
62 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 OUT SPAN—LOCUSTS. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 24th of May we left Queenstown, 
 and outspanned upon the Veldt. 
 
 To outspan is a very expressive Africander phrase, and is 
 continually in the mouth of all travellers. Should the day’s 
 drive be over forty miles of road, and if this is to go on for 
 some hundreds of miles, it is indispensable to be most watchful 
 of your cattle. It is, therefore, advisable to start always, even 
 in the winter season, by 6 a.m. A regular breakfast must not 
 be thought of, but a cup of coffee, which there is sometimes a 
 difficulty in obtaining at that early hour, must content the 
 traveller. After having driven rather slowly for two hours, 
 some convenient place should be selected near a river for the 
 Outspan, or taking out the mules from the carriage. 
 
 No sooner are the animals released, than each selects a soft 
 part in the sandy road and proceeds to have a roll; nor is the 
 driver perfectly satisfied unless they severally turn themselves 
 right over, and roll on both sides. Persons experienced in 
 African travelling look upon this roll as even more valuable 
 than food, and if the beast omits it, he is considered to show 
 signs of not being up to his work. 
 
 There is one point which requires especial attention in South 
 Africa. Both horses and mules, but especially the former, are 
 subject to looseness, which, if neglected, is almost sure to lead 
 immediately to the most serious consequences. It is requisite, 
 therefore, to be provided with medicine against this common 
 
VII.] 
 
 A DAY’S TREIC. 
 
 63 
 
 trouble. Some prefer a mixture of two ouuces of opium with 
 oue of cutcha; this is placed in a soda-water bottle, half a 
 bottle being given when the horse is affected. Others provide 
 themselves with Brown’s chlorodyne, and give as a dose half a 
 small bottle, mixed with brandy. 
 
 While the horses are being taken care of by the drivers, a 
 certain duty is allotted to each of the party. Some, with small 
 hunting-axes, cut wood, if there be any, and if there be not, 
 they collect in sacks the dry, hard manure, plenty of which is 
 sure to be at hand: others make the fire; while the cook, who 
 is indispensable in all such expeditions, cuts up the meat, 
 prepares the pots, boils the water, and makes the soup 
 or curry. 
 
 The whole of this, from the moment of halting to that of 
 the sharp crack of the thong whip, the signal of departure, 
 may be got through completely in two hours, but no idleness 
 must be shown by any one. 
 
 The horses or mules being refreshed will travel even better 
 than before, and three more hours can be run without another 
 halt. Thus thirty miles may probably have been accomplished, 
 when it will be wise to outspan a second time; a piece of bread 
 and cheese may be taken, and after a delay of three-quarters 
 of an hour, the second inspan should take place, after which the 
 remaining ten miles can be readily and easily accomplished 
 before nightfall. 
 
 For very long journeys it is my opinion that mules are to 
 be preferred to horses; they certainly do not travel so rapidly, 
 but they are much hardier and not so liable to sickness. They 
 can more readily stand deprivation of food and water, and they 
 bear cold infinitely better. It is frequently necessary to tie them 
 to the cart at night, with no shelter, but slight covering and 
 scanty food; as the weight and space taken up by their clothing 
 and forage will scarcely allow more than one sheet for each 
 mule and one good feed. 
 
64 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The mule is of a much less excitable temperament than the 
 horse. He is usually ready to eat as soon as he is outspanned 
 and has had his roll. This is by no means the case with all 
 horses, as a nervous animal will decline food perhaps for 
 hours, so that he soon loses condition and succumbs to 
 fatigue. 
 
 During this day’s trek we encountered an enormous flight 
 of locusts; they were smaller in size than those I had seen in 
 India, but, like their Hindoo cousins, they cause frightful 
 destruction. Each flight was not more than eighty yards 
 continuously, hut always in the same direction; the swarm 
 alighting for a minute or so probably to take a bite of grass, 
 and then recommencing its journey eastwards. 
 
 The natives in the neighbouring country of Basuto land 
 catch locusts in large numbers. They cook and pound them 
 into powder, which, when well dried, will keep a considerable 
 time. It is looked upon as excellent eating, and very much 
 relished; I confess I thought it bitter, resembling very old 
 caviare of the mullet, but not sturgeon caviare. 
 
 We now gained the foot of the Stormberg range of 
 mountains. The cold was piercing, ice being about three- 
 quarters of an inch thick upon all the pools of water. It is 
 frequently imagined by those at home that South Africa is one 
 continuous sandy plain. There can be no greater mistake. 
 Probably there is no country in the world which is more 
 diversified than South Africa. Mountains of stupendous height 
 rise above plains of great extent. There are sterile tracts of 
 sandy country, fertile slopes of great richness and beauty, 
 forests, rivers, and waterfalls, and, in short, every description 
 of scenery. 
 
 In all the small South African inns the coffee is most 
 execrable, butter quite unknown, preserved milk invariably 
 used, beef-steaks like leather, and the “ bradie ” the universal 
 resource. “ Bradie ” would appear to contain every conceivable 
 
VII.] 
 
 DIRT DEVILS. 
 
 65 
 
 edible, chopped up flue and baked into a sort of forced-meat 
 pudding. 
 
 It is to be regretted that our Cape colonies are so backward 
 in conveniences for travelling, particularly in rest-houses and 
 in means of movement. In the most distant parts of India 
 the Government charge themselves with erecting rest-houses, 
 where the traveller is sure to find a clean room, a bedstead, 
 a table, and a sofa, and care is taken that fire and a supply of 
 water for tea should be provided at small expense. At the 
 larger and more frequented stages, fowls, bread, and other food 
 can be obtained at fixed prices. 
 
 On the following day we saw a good many sand whirlwinds, 
 or “ dirt devils.” In the southern hemisphere these are stated 
 always to circle from left to right, whereas in the northern 
 their course is from right to left. As far as I could see, this 
 statement was verified on every occasion. 
 
 On the 27th of May we left again early, encountering droves 
 of oxen coming from the Orange Free State. All of them were 
 in very poor condition, lung sickness, it was said, having made 
 great havoc amongst the cattle. It was reported that red 
 water, a disease which had first shown itself in Natal, and had 
 been so fatal there as almost to destroy transport traffic, had 
 broken out on the northern side of the Caledon River. The 
 only cure appears to be to inoculate the tail of the animal 
 with the virus of the disease. This causes the greater part of 
 the appendage to drop off, but it saves the beast, and tail¬ 
 less oxen are consequently everywhere to be met with. Some 
 of the Kafirs are so proud of the oxen that they would prefer 
 to see them die rather than they should lose their tails. Hence 
 the difficulty of stamping out the disorder. 
 
 Aliwal is certainly a rising town, and the bridge which is now 
 being constructed over the Orange River will add very much 
 to its importance and wealth, as a large portion of the trade 
 with the Free State now passes through the place. 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFItICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 It derived its name from the victory of Sir Harry Smith, who 
 was Governor of the Cape, and had previously commanded a 
 division of the army on the Sutlej, defeating the Sikhs at the 
 battle of Aliwal. 
 
 Having been told of the natural warm spring running into a 
 tepid lake near the town, I determined to visit it. After about 
 two miles drive we reached this curious lake. There were two 
 or three basins of water, the largest of which appeared to be 
 about fifty yards across. In its centre there was a floating bath¬ 
 house. The water in these basins was perfectly clear, so that 
 the minutest grain of sand was readily discernible at the 
 bottom. Its temperature was, as well as I could judge, about 
 90 degrees Fahrenheit, a most agreeable warmth for a bath. 
 The depth of these pools I should judge to be about fifteen feet. 
 We bathed, my staff officers jumping in and swimming about in 
 the clear water. The hot sulphurous vapours were, however, 
 somewhat overpowering, and I found I could not remain in it 
 very long. The after effect to us all was a severe headache. 
 
 These baths will no doubt some day be much frequented. 
 Since our visit I have been told that bath-houses and lodging- 
 houses have been erected, and are now occupied. 
 
 There was a grand cricket match going on at Aliwal North. 
 The young men from distant places were assembled, and a 
 musical entertainment was held in the evening. 
 
 There is a very extensive native settlement of Tamboukies 
 to the east, which is called Herschell, to which I shall again 
 allude w'hen I describe our return from the Free State to 
 Port Elizabeth. 
 
 On the following day we crossed the river by the ponf, which 
 is placed somewhat lower down than the ford or drift at which 
 the waggons cross. It took us a considerable time to embark 
 our carts and mules and reach the opposite bank. A waggon 
 that was fording the river lower down was halted midstream, and 
 could not move, although thirty-two bullocks w'ere attached to it. 
 
INTO THE ORANGE FREE FT ATE. 
 
 67 
 
 VII.] 
 
 We were now in the Orange Free State, a country noted for 
 its flatness, and towards evening we arrived at the Caledon 
 River, about thirty-two miles distant from Aliwal. Here we 
 found a small hotel kept by an Englishman, who had come to 
 the Free State for his health. He had brought his young wife, 
 and, as he was delighted at meeting people from the old country, 
 he was most anxious to oblige us. He much regretted that he 
 could not make us more comfortable, as his furniture had not 
 yet arrived, and all that he could offer us for supper was a few 
 tins of salmon and some black bread. His wife appeared to be 
 very much above her position, and talked very feelingly of her 
 home in London, which she seemed deeply to regret ever having 
 quitted. She said she had come against her parents’ wishes 
 but cared for nothing but to tend her husband, and to let him 
 try the air of the Free State in the neighbourhood of Bloem¬ 
 fontein, so highly recommended for pulmonary complaints. 
 
 The next day we crossed the Caledon river by a punt, but 
 had not left it more than a mile when the pole of our cart gave 
 a growl, then smashed, and in an instant, falling backward, our 
 feet were in the air. 
 
 The mules did not regard this as at all unusual or out of 
 the way. They stood passively, cocking their ears and wagging 
 their tails, not objecting to their temporary respite from 
 labour. Crawling out we soon found ourselves in the road; but 
 here was a predicament—a broken pole, the widespread veldt, 
 and no house near. A little consideration decided me to 
 attach the broken cart in rear of the sound one, so as to form a 
 sort of four-wheeled spider. The plan was quite successful. 
 Six mules were thus compelled to draw the two carts, while 
 four mules ran loose. Every thoughtful and experienced driver 
 in South Africa is careful at the commencement of his journey 
 to be supplied with rims, or strong leather thongs. These are 
 narrow strips of untanned leather, cut from the hides of bul¬ 
 locks. They are extremely tough, and much more durable 
 
68 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 than rope. VYe were well supplied with these useful articles, 
 which enabled us once more to take the road. Fortunately a 
 farmer passed us. His spring cart only contained his boy and 
 himself. On seeing our difficulty he kindly offered me a seat 
 to Smithfield, which was about ten miles distant. 
 
 My first care on arrival was to see the wheelwright, and 
 get him to form a new pole as soon as possible from a stout 
 tree of assegai wood. By the time the carts had arrived, very 
 considerable progress had been made towards our refit. This 
 wheelwright and blacksmith was the only workman at these 
 trades in Smithfield. He had arrived on the previous day from 
 the town of George in the “ old colony ” (as the colony of the 
 Cape of Good Hope is familiarly called). He said that his 
 brother had made him a present of a sufficient sum of money 
 to find his way up, and that now he should soon be a made 
 man. His brother had arrived in the colony only a few years 
 since and had “gone in,” as he expressed it, “for ostrich 
 farming.” He had been fortunate, and was now the owner of 
 about 200 birds, the aggregate value of which could not be less 
 than 2000Z. This man made a new pole in a few hours, and 
 although it was not quite so smart looking as the one made in 
 King William’s Town, it served every purpose. It was very 
 rough but strong. In fact it was little more than a young 
 tree fitted to the socket in the cart. For this we were required 
 to pay 31 ., and we considered ourselves fortunate in getting this 
 rough stick even for that sum. 
 
 The wages of artisans of very common abilities are very 
 high in the Free State. The daily rate of carpenters and brick¬ 
 layers was 17 .; blacksmiths about the same price. The sum 
 demanded for shoeing a horse was 1/., while the price of living, 
 taking it all round, was about the same as it is at home. Thus, 
 if a man is sober and industrious, he is sure to succeed very 
 quickly in the Free State. 
 
 We spent the next night in the open veldt, lying on the 
 
VII.] 
 
 A TREELESS COUNTRY. 
 
 69 
 
 ground under our little tent. It was bitterly cold. The water 
 in our tent froze, and there was no means of making a fire. 
 The country is entirely devoid of wood; not one single tree did 
 we meet with during the whole day’s journey, and we could 
 obtain no kraal dung. Wood for building purposes is at a 
 fabulous price, and no one could be induced to commit such 
 a sacrilege as to burn a log. All fires are made of cow-dung> 
 which is an excellent substitute for coal, provided it can be 
 obtained in sufficient quantities. We were glad to inspan 
 on the 30th and be off. Shortly after we passed the farm 
 of Jacob Tolyards, where we purchased a loaf of bread for 
 2s. 6eZ. 
 
 It is singular how phlegmatic the Dutch farmers are. It 
 might be thought that men so far removed from the world 
 would be glad to have a word with a stranger, but they do not 
 wish to move ten miles from their own door, nor to see one 
 who comes from ten miles beyond it. 
 
 The country in the Orange Free State consists chiefly of 
 wide open plains. Rifles are now so common in the colony 
 that the deer have no rest within a considerable range of the 
 roads. The game, however, is so far privileged, because the 
 black man is seldom allowed to carry arms. We did not meet 
 with a single native kraal or village, for the Boers forcibly 
 drove out all the aborigines when they took possession. 
 
 Bloemfontein. 
 
 On entering the city of Bloemfontein, we saw on our right a 
 handsome monument dedicated to those who fell in the Basuto 
 war. It is conspicuously placed on rising ground above the 
 town in the immediate neighbourhood of the fort. 
 
 A lightning conductor was attached to every building. The 
 storms in summer are both frequent and dangerous, the hail¬ 
 stones being stated to be of immense size, frequently pene- 
 
70 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 trating even the corrugated iron roofs of the buildings, and 
 beating down sheep in large numbers when in the open without 
 shelter. We were directed by the officer who met us to drive 
 to the Free State Hotel, where we were most comfortably 
 lodged. 
 
 After breakfast we attended at the Church of England 
 Cathedral, a very handsome building, to which is attached 
 a comfortable roomy house for the Bishop of Bloemfontein. 
 The service was conducted on the High Church system, the 
 vestments of the clergy being handsomely decorated, and 
 astonishing the simple Lutherans or Presbyterians, who from 
 curiosity witnessed the service. 
 
 Mr. Brand, the President, received me with great kindness. 
 He expressed himself courteously, but firmly, as regards the 
 British Government on the subject of our annexation of the 
 Diamond Fields. There is but little doubt that we were 
 obliged to take that step. On the first discovery of these rich 
 deposits, people from England, America, and the colonies of 
 the Cape of Good Hope and Natal, at once flocked to them 
 in large numbers. These wild lands were at that time very 
 thinly inhabited by stolid Dutch Boers, who received the 
 interlopers with fear and dislike. 
 
 It would cause too long a digression to enter upon the merits 
 of the controversy whether these farms belonged by right to the 
 Free State or to Great Britain. Circumstances compelled the 
 Governor of Cape Colony to take them under his rule, other¬ 
 wise perfect anarchy and riot must have reigned. The Dutch 
 had not the power of controlling the inhabitants, and had we 
 not stepped in, not only would the Free State Government 
 have been defied by these temporary visitors from the four 
 quarters of the world, but the Republic itself would have been 
 annexed by them. Thus a difficulty on the borders of the Cape 
 Colony had arisen which it would have been most dangerous to 
 have permitted to continue. A settlement of this much-vexed 
 
VII.] 
 
 TABA-UNOHU. 
 
 71 
 
 question has, however, now been arrived at, in a most satis¬ 
 factory manner, a payment of more than 100,00(F. having been 
 made to the Free State in compensation for any supposed claims 
 they might have had in respect to Griqualand. This sum is 
 in addition to another 100,000?. paid by our Government to the 
 persons who first purchased the farm upon which the New Rush 
 Mine at Kimberley now is. 
 
 Mr. Brand, the President, is the son of Sir Christopher Brand, 
 the late Speaker of the House of Assembly at Cape Town. 
 He is much liked and highly respected throughout the Free 
 State and in the colony. In the afternoon we visited the 
 castle. It is somewhat rude in structure, apparently very 
 little having been done to it since it was originally built by 
 the English. From the castle there is a fine view of Taba- 
 Unchu, a mountain about forty miles distant, the intervening 
 country being a perfect plain. This mountain stands boldly 
 out, a very prominent feature and noted landmark for miles 
 round. 
 
 It is from this direction that the attacks were made upon the 
 settlers in Bloemfontein during their war with the Basutos, and 
 many an anxious gaze was then directed from the castle to see 
 if the enemy were advancing to endeavour to destroy the city. 
 
 When they read accounts of the prosperity which settlers 
 enjoy, those who reside in quiet England scarcely bear in 
 mind the anxieties which they must face. Too frequently their 
 prosperity is only to be obtained by many a sleepless hour of 
 watching the movements of a savage foe, whose discordant 
 yells may suddenly wake them from dream-land, in the quiet 
 hours of the night, to see their houses and homesteads in 
 flames, their cattle driven off. They are fortunate if they are 
 not left lifeless corpses on their own freeholds. 
 
 The fort contains some very useful Whitworth breech-loading 
 cannon, which are stated to have proved most effectual in the 
 Basuto campaign. 
 
72 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Crap. 
 
 On the following morning I attended the President to the 
 House of Assembly, where a debate upon education was pro¬ 
 ceeding. It was conducted in the Dutch language. I was 
 informed that it terminated by a vote of a very large sum towards 
 the advancement of schools throughout the State. A liberal 
 grant was also made this year towards the construction of 
 public buildings in Bloemfontein. Handsome structures are 
 very numerous in the city. Amongst these, schools for all 
 denominations and for both sexes predominate, but banks and 
 private residences are progressing with great rapidity, and my 
 subsequent visits assured me of the future prosperity of the 
 place, from the immense advantages which had accrued to it 
 during the great and increasing development of trade, and the 
 benefits it derived from the Diamond Fields. So great has 
 been the advance of the Free State in late years, that one 
 pound bank notes, there called “blue books,” which are now 
 at par, in 1872 were selling at 11s. 6d. each. 
 
 After the country was annexed by Sir Harry Smith, 
 the value of property increased, but when it was again relin¬ 
 quished, on orders from home, its prosperity was grievously 
 retarded. 
 
 The climate of Bloemfontein is especially noted as being 
 highly beneficial in pulmonary complaints, and the best 
 physicians in Europe speak in glowing terms of its restorative 
 powers. Most remarkable instances are quoted in which 
 patients, who, on their arrival, were hardly able to crawl about, 
 have, after a residence of a few months, been completely 
 restored. Each year the number who seek this dry atmo¬ 
 sphere is increasing. It has been found requisite to build 
 lodgings and to make arrangements upon a European model 
 for the convenience of visitors. The difficulties to be over¬ 
 come are the distance from England to South Africa, the 
 remoteness of Bloemfontein from Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, 
 and Natal, the desperately bad roads to be traversed, the 
 
VII.] 
 
 A SOUTH AFRICAN IIEALTII RESORT. 
 
 73 
 
 primitive nature of the conveyances, and the great expense of 
 the journey. 
 
 One disadvantage to a temporary residence is the extravagant 
 price of everything. This can be readily understood with 
 European articles, especially as the charge for carriage from 
 Cape Town amounts at least to Gd. the pound weight, and the 
 customs duty (which goes to the benefit of the Cape Colonial 
 Government) is equal to about 12 per cent, on each article 
 ad valorem. This will not account, however, for the high 
 prices of the commonest necessaries of life. Meat, though ot 
 very inferior quality, costs as much as in England, while bread is 
 double the price, and butter from 5s. to 6s. per pound. Veget¬ 
 ables are so scarce that 2s. Gd. is generally asked for a cabbage, 
 potatoes cost about 4 d. to Gd. a pound, and eggs are not 
 unfrequently Gd. each. I was told that a gentleman of this 
 city, who understood gardening, gained at least 300Z. a year 
 from the sale of vegetables from a garden not more than one 
 acre in extent. 
 
 What is the reason for such high prices where land is of 
 unlimited extent, and boundless acres of pasturage are to be 
 seen on all sides? It is owing to the general apathy of the 
 Boers, and the lack of energetic European settlers. The Dutch 
 themselves are perfectly contented to live on coarse meal 
 dampers; and buck venison, shot on the veldt, serves in place 
 of beef or mutton. 
 
 The markets are generally very distant from their home¬ 
 steads, and the sale of everything which costs them trouble to 
 produce is somewhat uncertain. Heretofore they have not 
 been accustomed to be paid in coin for what they have to 
 sell. Added to this, the price of garden seed is very high, the 
 cost of all utensils used in manufacturing equally so, and the 
 more pressing claims of their farms, such as banking rivers and 
 herding sheep, leave them no opportunity for a more advan¬ 
 tageous outlay of their time and capital. 
 
74 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFHICA. [Chap. YII. 
 
 In 1S54 about 50 bales of wool left Bloemfontein for tbe 
 southern markets. In 1S74 10,000 bales were sent south. 
 The imports of that year into the Free State were valued at 
 500,0007.; the exports 600,0007. The custom duties on all 
 these imports went to the advantage of the Cape Colony and 
 Natal. 
 
( 75 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 DUTCH CHARACTERISTICS—SPORT. 
 
 The Orange Free State contains a large Dutch population, and 
 in its wilder parts may be found true specimens of the Dutch 
 Boer. 
 
 The habits of the Boer are very primitive. I visited the 
 farm of a Dutchman called Petrus Lombard, who when young 
 had trecked with his family from the colony. Old Lombard 
 must have weighed at least twenty-five stone, and appeared to 
 be in the last stage of dropsy. 
 
 The house, far from a large one, was crammed with women 
 and children of all ages and colours, and in every stage of 
 nudity. What clothes they possessed were of the old Dutch 
 kind of cloth or greasy sheep-skin. 
 
 Such shouting, squalling, and holloing I think I never 
 heard. Every now and then the voice of old Lombard rose 
 above the din, calling for brandy. We supped upon our own 
 provisions, and were lodged for the night in an outhouse, where 
 the skins of lately killed buck, beans, corn, and bacon were 
 stored, and where what sleep we could get was disturbed by the 
 host’s voice calling, “ Sarah, bring water.” 
 
 I ought here, once for all, to acknowledge the civility of the 
 gentlemen of the Orange Free State. On many occasions they 
 sent their carriages with beautiful horses for miles to meet us, 
 and on our arrival at their farms they spared no pains to make 
 our stay pleasant. 
 
76 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Next perhaps to the minister, whose position, both in the 
 ■western part of the Colony and in the Free State, is quite 
 supreme, the district surgeon is the man of greatest impor¬ 
 tance. There is nothing which a Dutchman looks upon as so 
 requisite as physic. He will send hundreds of miles to procure 
 it, and although extremely penurious in all other ways, nig¬ 
 gardly, in fact, to the last penny, he will not scruple at the 
 slightest symptom of illness to send for the doctor. Should 
 a surgeon once obtain repute, deservedly or otherwise, his 
 fortune is certainly made. The most ridiculous circumstances 
 often ensure to him this good luck, and the amount of money 
 he receives yearly is sometimes very surprising. 
 
 I was told that a medical practitioner lost his credit 
 by simply prescribing the use of liberal ablutions, to an elderly 
 lady. Her husband was dreadfully angry, making his remon¬ 
 strance in the following terms: 
 
 Young man, you are a stranger in this country, and recom¬ 
 mend new customs, which are contrary to usages which we 
 know to be the true rules for health. I have been now 
 married to my £ vrow ’ for thirty-five years, during which 
 time water has scarce touched her body. It is not, sir, by 
 your persuasion that such inroads can be made into our 
 manners; you are ignorant of our mode of life aud do not 
 understand our wants. 
 
 About four years ago a storekeeper received some glass 
 balls about the size of eggs amongst his fancy goods from 
 England. Soon after, a rather tiresome woman, the wife of a 
 Dutch farmer came to his store. To get rid of her he gave her 
 one of these cut balls, telling her that he had found it on her 
 husband’s farm. The old woman took it to her lord and master, 
 who at once felt persuaded it was a diamond, and that he was 
 possessed of great riches, as he knew from the size and brilliancy 
 of the stone, that it must be enormously valuable. He was ill for 
 
vrn.] 
 
 A DEER HURT IN THE FREE STATE. 
 
 77 
 
 three days with delight, and then drove over to Wynberg to 
 dispose of it, enhancing its value to the storekeeper there by 
 showing him that it was found already cut. No persuasion 
 could convince him that he had been made the victim of a 
 hoax. 
 
 There can be no doubt, however, that stray diamonds are 
 occasionally found. Mr. Harker told us that he had purchased 
 one of five carats weight, which he had every reason to believe 
 was found on the veldt, not far from his own house. 
 
 Some little time before our arrival a German conjuror had 
 visited this distant little village, when the Doppers were so 
 alarmed at his tricks that they left the room in which he was 
 exhibiting, and assembling in prayer, entreated to be relieved 
 of the devil who had come amongst them. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Lady Brand (the name of a town¬ 
 ship) there is an extensive cave in which the mission resided 
 for some years before the church and station were built. 
 The labours of the missionaries were the more admired by the 
 natives on account of their devotion to their duties, and the 
 acceptance of much privation. 
 
 It may interest my readers if I describe a day’s shooting in 
 the Orange Free State which I enjoyed at Mr. Wessel’s farm, 
 about sixteen miles from Wynberg. 
 
 We formed a line, and about twelve in number we rode up 
 a gentle rise in the plain, passing over a low range of hills. In 
 a few minutes we were within sight of a herd of game. It was 
 the first time that I had seen blesbok or wildebeest in any 
 number. The scene filled me with surprise and anxiety. 
 Quietly feeding at a distance of 800 yards there were at least 
 500 of these two kinds of large deer. 
 
 I endeavoured to profit by the instruction I had received 
 both as to the manner of approaching them, and as to the 
 particular time for firing at them. But I own that excitement 
 made me rather a bad pupil. 
 
78 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Starting then at a gallop we rode for the herd, which at 
 first, confused by our sudden approach, stood still and stared, 
 giving us an opportunity of getting still nearer to them. 
 Selecting their leader, they sprang into motion. It was impos¬ 
 sible to believe that they were going at a more rapid rate than 
 a canter, so unwieldy did the stride of the wildebeest appear, 
 and so ungainly that of the blesbok. In reality they were fast 
 making away from us, when, at a word from Wessel, every¬ 
 one jumped off his horse, and selecting his beast, fired. Loading 
 again as rapidly as possible, we galloped after them at full 
 speed. 
 
 A considerable number of blesbok came across me. Forget¬ 
 ful of my lesson to allow them to pass so as to enable me to 
 fire at them from behind, I shot at their flank, when to my 
 surprise, although they were not more than 200 yards distant 
 not one fell. I reloaded and fired four or five shots before 
 they were out of range, but with the same effect. Spring¬ 
 ing on my horse, I again followed in pursuit. What was my 
 astonishment, in galloping over the ground in precisely the 
 direction which my ball had taken, to see a brawny black 
 fellow spring out of the low bush, armed with a long “ brown 
 Bess.” He had been hidden, and was waiting in hope that the 
 herd would pass close to his lair. He made spasmodic signs to 
 me to show that my bullets had gone on either side of him and 
 within a few inches of his head. I believe that had they even 
 struck him they would have had little more effect than they 
 had upon the wildebeest, for his head looked stronger than 
 that of an ox. 
 
 His dogs were covered with blood. No doubt they had seized 
 one of our wounded bucks, and brought it down, and their 
 master had concealed it in the bush until we should be gone. 
 The Kafir had been hidden from my view by the immense herd 
 of game through which I had fired, and which w'as running 
 between us; but he was a brave fellow', and by his grins one might 
 
yin.] 
 
 TIIE GUNS FOB CAPE DEEP. 
 
 79 
 
 Lave imagined that he enjoyed the share I gave him of the 
 sport as much as I did the portion which fell to me. 
 
 How little did I then understand the method of stalking 
 these animals! Further practice and a knowledge of their 
 habits rendered it so familiar to me, that I could select to a 
 perfect certainty the exact spot in the plain which the herd 
 were sure to pass, and which, riding at a gallop, I could reach 
 before their arrival. 
 
 At this time my aide-de-camp hilled a blesbok, and, as he 
 was going to despatch it, a deadly snake, called here the “shop- 
 stricker,” or sheep-hitter, struck at him and then glided into 
 the bush. Had it not been for the high riding boots which he 
 wore, it would have wounded him, perhaps mortally. 
 
 My want of success at the first gallop proved to me that 
 I ought to have attended better to the advice of the Boers, 
 not to fire until I got to the rear of the animals. Although 
 you may lose a little in actual distance, the chances of killing 
 them are thus immensely increased ; for the bullet thus entering 
 from the rear has less difficulty in reaching the heart. But the 
 wildebest is a tough animal, and I consider that the express 
 bullet of 450 (the military gauge) is too small generally to 
 bring him down. I should much prefer the 500. Subse¬ 
 quently, I killed many of these animals, but when wounded 
 they generally gave me a run of tw r o or three miles before I 
 could ride them down. I seldom had one skinned that I 
 did not find one old bullet in him, and frequently two and 
 even three. 
 
 I am convinced that the express bullet with a hollow point 
 is not the bullet to obtain the game which is hit. The bullet 
 expands and makes a wide wound, but in my opinion it is not 
 heavy enough to bring down an animal larger than the small 
 antelope. It wounds the larger ones and they no doubt even¬ 
 tually die, but they are able to run for such a distance alter 
 they are struck as to render the pursuit long and arduous, 
 
80 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 and wooded countries deprive the sportsman of his chances of 
 recovering them. 
 
 Every day while we were hunting, our driver was employed 
 in making “ Beltong.” This he did by cutting the meat of the 
 blesbok and springbok into long slices and rubbing it with 
 salt, then festooning it on a rim placed between the two carts 
 and allowed it to dry in the sun and the cold dry wind. 
 
 Beltong, when carefully made, is most excellent, especially 
 that of the tender springbok. It is universally used on all 
 journeys in South Africa, and when the wild deer cannot be 
 procured, it is made of strips of beef, which I found quite as 
 good. The Boers are also extremely clever at making a 
 species of rusk, excellent in taste, which will keep for weeks. 
 
 For an emigrant with some capital there is no part of South 
 Africa which I think would be better than Wynberg. A very 
 fine farm of about 6000 acres with some buildings on it could 
 be purchased for about 2000/.; to stock it might cost perhaps 
 1000/. more; say 500/. for horses, carts, &c., and 500/. in hand. 
 
 Thus a young man with a fortune of 4000/. who possessed 
 prudence and activity would be quite sure of a successful 
 career if he undertook to settle in this part of the Free State. 
 If fond of sport he could enjoy it to his heart’s content. It 
 would, however, be prudent for him to forego speculation until 
 he had become well acquainted with the Dutch language, and 
 the manners and customs of the people he is among. 
 
 The settler must not expect an immediate return for his 
 exertions in money, but he will secure a freedom from those 
 cares and anxieties which encompass a parent whose increasing 
 family and responsibilities bid him look to the future of those 
 he holds most dear. 
 
 Few people can imagine the quantity of antelopes which 
 inhabit these plains, though no doubt they are rapidly diminish¬ 
 ing. Mr. Adler told me that he had purchased more than 
 70,000 skins during the last year alone, and he was but a single 
 
VIII.] 
 
 ANTELOPES. 
 
 81 
 
 merchant. The aggregate exportation of skins amounts to 
 nearly one million in the year. These come generally now 
 from the neighbourhood of Kronstadt or from eighty to a 
 hundred miles north of Bloemfontein. The Westley Richard, 
 and now the Martini-Henry, rifle are very busily at work. 
 Possibly within the next ten years not a single head of game 
 will exist on this side of the Yaal river. Everywhere we 
 went we found the plains strewed with the skulls of bles- 
 bok and wildebeest, showing the thousands which must be 
 destroyed yearly. 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 BASUTO LAND. 
 
 After leaving the Orange Free State we went to Basuto 
 land. 
 
 The Basutos are an interesting race of people and appear 
 more advanced than the Kafir generally. Their late chief 
 Moshesh, “ the Shaver,” so called because he not only symboli¬ 
 cally but frequently in real fact shaved off the heads of his 
 enemies, was a man of very considerable ability, and was 
 considered a rare diplomatist. 
 
 Like Ranjeed Sing, he stuck firmly by the English, and the 
 deepest regret he ever expressed was about his war (in which 
 he was anything but conquered) with Sir George Cathcart. 
 
 On approaching Thaba Bosigo we were met by Masupa, the 
 son of Letsi, the son of Moshesh. He was presented to me by 
 Mr. Griffith, and he was at the head of 300 mounted men. 
 They wore a sort of Dutch uniform, with a wide-awake hat 
 in which was stuck a handsome ostrich feather; many of his 
 followers were dressed in blue cloth, with hats similarly 
 adorned. These dresses they wear on rare occasions, but no 
 Kafir feels really at home or comfortable unless he is robed in 
 his kaross or blanket. Those whom circumstances have for 
 years compelled continually to use European clothes return 
 with eager haste to their blanket whenever it is possible to 
 adopt it. 
 
 At Thaba Bosigo we were kindly received at the French 
 Protestant Mission Station. Their very comfortable house had 
 
IX.] 
 
 TI1E LOVED ALE INSTITUTION. 
 
 83 
 
 been entirely gutted and destroyed by the Basutos during the 
 war with the Free State Republic, but it had now been rebuilt 
 and freshly furnished. 
 
 A considerable number of pupils attended the school, prin¬ 
 cipally females, but I failed to discover that they had any other 
 employment than reading and singing psalms. No useful trade 
 was taught them, so that in my opinion a civilising influence 
 was wanting here. At the Catholic station on the other side 
 of the mountain, instruction was given in weaving, cloth¬ 
 making, and certain trades which could not fail to prove 
 useful. 
 
 The access to the mountain of Thaba Bosigo, the stronghold 
 of Moshesh, is steep and difficult, and bade defiance to the attack 
 of the Boers, though many brave attempts were made to take 
 it by assault. The buildings upon it are now in ruins. 
 
 The Cape House of Assembly has passed a resolution with 
 regard to Basuto land to the following effect: 
 
 It is the opinion of this House that there should be established 
 in Basuto land an industrial training school for the education 
 of the Basutos and other natives in trades, handicrafts, and 
 other occupations, upon the system as far as possible of that 
 adopted at the Lovedale Institution, and further, that while 
 the surplus revenues of Basuto land justify a sufficient pro¬ 
 vision therefrom in aid of this establishment every effort 
 should be made to secure that the Institution should in the 
 future be self-supporting. 
 
 In this the Lovedale Institution at Alice has been the 
 chief example and now it is beginning to be recognised that 
 the true way to tame a savage is to make him a useful artisan. 
 
 We had come from Mapasa, and from the drift in the 
 Caledon river by the same road which had been taken by Sir 
 George Cat!icart when he made his attack upon Moshesh in 
 1853. 
 
84 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The mountain, upon which the Kafirs attacked the 12th 
 Lancers, lay on our left hand. Had the Kafirs then been 
 armed with rifles, Sir George would have had a very difficult 
 task to have occupied the position by the road which he took, 
 presenting as it did defensible points at every thousand yards. 
 
 Sir George Cathcart had a noble mind and a courageous 
 heart; but his career and his subsequent death point to a 
 want of prudence, which certainly was exemplified on the 
 occasion. He allowed his cavalry to become separated and 
 disorganised in pursuit of cattle, and they drove the herd s 
 towards the river, until a portion of the troopers, getting 
 entrapped in the ravines, were cut off by a very large mounted 
 body of the enemy. Nothing remained but to cut their way 
 through the Kafirs. This they gallantly did, but only to find 
 that they were obliged to descend precipices or be sacrificed. 
 Some succeeded in doing so, while others perished, and to this 
 day the arms and dresses of some of those lancers who fell 
 may be seen. The Kafirs, encouraged by success, then attacked 
 the main body under the General himself, making repeated 
 charges even up to the very muzzles of the two six-pounder 
 guns, which he placed in a most excellent position to resist 
 them. The steadiness of the infantry soldier now displayed 
 itself, as he beat off their repeated assaults, and destroyed with 
 grape the brave natives, who met their death with courage. 
 At length they listened to the voice of their chief Moshesh 
 and retired from the encounter. 
 
 On the following day terms were arranged with Moshesh, who 
 paid a fine which had been awarded against him by the 
 Governor, and the army retraced its steps, the General being 
 much pleased to get out of the valley. 
 
 This is an oft-told tale of mountain warfare, where the 
 defenders have so vast an advantage over the attack. Caution 
 is required in the advance. Bull-dog courage is not sufficient 
 to ensure success in such a position as that into which Cathcart 
 
IX.] 
 
 SIR GEORGE CATHCART. 
 
 85 
 
 thrust himself and his troops. He afterwards died a glorious 
 death at Inkermann, when the army was crowning its victory. 
 
 I subsequently received from a friend a very interesting 
 account of this action, in the following terms :— 
 
 The day after we entered the country of Moshesk by garrison 
 orders our game-shooting (it was stated “ with great regret”) 
 must be stopped. On the second day we reached Platberg, 
 the old Bastard location. Mr. Giddy, the missionary, was at 
 his post, though the Bastards had tied before the wrath of 
 the great Basuto. 
 
 On the 13th we made a camp, a meeting was convened, hut 
 none of the chiefs thought the day convenient. On the 
 14th the sons of the chiefs, besides many black princes and 
 kings, called at our lines; but the Governor put forth an 
 advertisement that he wanted the great chief, and declared 
 that until it was answered he would not see any of the 
 smaller black ones. 
 
 Owen, therefore, rode to Moshesh. He delivered this message, 
 and on the 15th Moshesh turned up. He was very neatly 
 attired in a new dark suit of clothing, and met everybody with 
 a dignified and affable politeness, which extended to the 
 lancer orderlies, whose hands he shook with fervour, and 
 also to Morocco, his neighbour (a pigeon he had often 
 plucked). Having been admitted to the hospital marquee in 
 front of His Excellency’s tent, he was introduced to the 
 General (Inkose Inkulu). The General, to cut a dash, was 
 dressed in a glittering costume. He thought he had it all 
 his own way, and came down on “ old Mo ” pretty stiffly. He 
 desired him to pay 10,000 head of cattle and 1000 horses 
 within three days, or be exterminated. 
 
 Boor Mo answered and said: “ Oh, chief, live for ever ! The 
 Basutos are dogs, and I, 0 Inkose Inkulu, am but a son of 
 them. Take my cattle, take my lambs, take my people, do 
 
86 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFIUCA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 as yon please with them—thy servant can do no more; but,” 
 added the old cove, “ I cannot send you the cattle in three 
 days, being only a Kafir or a dog, and must take a dog’s 
 time to do my work.” 
 
 The General, overjoyed at his knuckling down so quickly, 
 said : “ Be off, Mo; and if every cow be not in by the third 
 day the Inkose will come and take all your cattle; but, if 
 your people submit without a shot, he will not hunt them.” 
 Whereupon Mo observed, “ that if you trod upon the pet corn 
 of a cur he would very likely turn and bite.” He then 
 bowed and retired. In ten minutes he was on his way to 
 the mountain, and the Governor telling every one he was 
 sure of his cattle. 
 
 Three days were nearly spent before any kine appeared, and 
 then at sundown 3400 lean and lazy beasts came in with an 
 escort of 600 mounted Basutos. 
 
 When Nehemiah appeared it was thought that the whole fine 
 had arrived, and the General observed to him that he was 
 glad to see that he had brought the cattle and said, “ Oh, I 
 am glad to see that you have paid the fine, you’ve a great 
 many huts on the road to Thaba Bosigo and I should be sorry 
 to burn them.” When the counters reported that the thousand 
 horses and six thousand five hundred cows were short of the 
 fine, Nehemiah was told that he need not dine with his 
 Excellency, but to go home and tell his papa that the Inkose 
 was coming. 
 
 Next day about two-thirds of the force went to the Caledon 
 river, where they encamped and constructed a pont. This 
 was about nine miles from Thaba Bosigo. 
 
 Orders were given to march at four next morning with three 
 days’ provisions, the infantry to cross by the pont, the cavalry 
 by the ford. 
 
 The cavalry brigade was broken up, two hundred sabres were 
 placed under the command of Napier, who went with his 
 
IX.] 
 
 THE BATTLE WITH MOSHESH. 
 
 87 
 
 little force round to the left quite out of reach, and without 
 support. Colonel Eyre advanced with 700 foot and 40 
 mounted Fingocs from the centre; and the General, with 200 
 foot, 2 guns, with an escort of 40 Lancers, 25 Cape Mounted 
 llifles, and his Fingo guard, took to the right. 
 
 We, the cavalry, got well out of sight, and before we were half¬ 
 way to Thaba Bosigo, saw nothing but cattle all over the hills 
 Munro and Carey with their troops pushed on and received 
 a volley while getting over a stone wall; they charged, killing 
 with lance, carbine, or sabre, some twelve or thirteen Basutos. 
 Carey drove his sword right through a savage, and, after a 
 better opposition than we expected, the Basutos dispersed 
 and fled. They then pushed on, we closely following until 
 we came suddenly upon a magnificent herd of cattle. After 
 a hard gallop a few of us managed to head the herd and 
 turn them back to Napier, though not without danger of 
 being hurled over a krantz. I cannot describe to you the 
 force of the stream of cattle which would have escaped, had 
 we not luckily shot an ox or two in a narrow openiug between 
 two stones, the only outlet: this stopped the torrent rushing 
 forward. 
 
 We got bade, having ridden between several Kafirs whom I 
 could easily have stabbed, but refrained. After getting the 
 cattle back we were obliged to let them run to the flats as 
 we could not keep them quiet. 
 
 Meanwhile Carey and Munro had parted company, the latter 
 having returned to us, while Oakes, Somerset, and Warren 
 had joined Carey with a few men, and pushed on to near 
 Thaba Bosigo. The Basutos now assembled in our rear, and 
 Tottenham with twenty-five men drew out to front them 
 and support Somerset. Their numbers exceeded all estimate 
 we had formed of them, and while all our reserve under 
 Napier had gone down to the flats except a few stragglers, 
 we thus had to bear up against a dense mass of disciplined 
 
88 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 horsemen on the hill, one mile and a half from our 
 friends. 
 
 We did our best, we drove one squadron in, and then another 
 at our best pace, and then confronted their main body more 
 than 800 strong. We now re-dressed our line at 300 yards 
 from their centre, which was three deep, their flanks advanced 
 in an attitude to surround us. At these odds we charged 
 and received at 70 yards’ distance a concentric fire from 
 the whole line, after which the semicircle closed its horns 
 upon us, and we were surrounded and cut off. We were there¬ 
 fore compelled to dash back and re-form close to them, but 
 their regular and overwhelming advance pushed us on and 
 we were obliged at last to gallop for our lives. 
 
 Our retreat was headlong, for the enemy had headed us and 
 pursued us with good speed. With difficulty any lived to tell 
 the tale. Tottenham behaved like a hero; the last to turn, 
 he remained almost the last in the retreat, and by cool 
 courage and good riding managed to save a sergeant-major 
 by shooting a Basuto while just about to stab him. After 
 a mile we were pulled up by a stone wall, and here many fell. 
 I had to run home my spurs and leap it as a last chance. 
 Just before a Basuto had ridden between me and it, I cut 
 him across the shoulder with my sword and saw no more of 
 him. Tottenham got over the wall and saved one of his men. 
 
 At length some Cape Mounted Riflemen came back to our 
 support, and their carbine shots checked our pursuers. We 
 were still followed, however, and the enemy fired smartly 
 wounding a man of the rear guard whom Tottenham brought 
 off on his own horse. 
 
 Our captured cattle were now driven on as fast as possible, and 
 though Kafirs collected on our flank, yet they would not 
 face Tottenham’s little rear guard commanded by himself on 
 foot, and hampered with a wounded man upon his horse. 
 The fighting now came to an end. 
 
IX. 
 
 END OF THE CAVALRY RAID. 
 
 89 
 
 I then went to the camp and got some men to cover the 
 passage of the cattle over the river. Somerset’s party had 
 had a narrow squeak but managed to prevent being run 
 into by steady courage and good skirmishing. They reached 
 camp in a sorry plight just when we did, but with a con¬ 
 sciousness of having done their best, which repays any 
 man for the greatest risks. Somerset brought in a soldier 
 behind him. Simpkin just got in his wounded horse before 
 it fell dead. They were fortunate to get off at all being 
 surrounded by a force so great as to drive them over a krantz. 
 Such was the cavalry fight, which, but for the isolation of our 
 force at so remote a position, must have been a brilliant 
 affair. As it was we held our prize, and bore off four thousand 
 head of cattle to our camp. Of Tottenham’s small rear guard 
 twenty fell. Eyre and the Governor fired away till dark. 
 The latter riding forward alone to parley was nearly shot, 
 despite his white flag. 
 
 Moshesh fortunately sent in for peace. Every one wanted then- 
 revenge, and desired to attack the Basutos again, but the 
 Governor refused, not liking to enter the hills again. 
 
 In the year following my visit to Basuto land two sons of 
 Letsi, and grandsons of Moshesh, came down to Cape Town, 
 when I was requested by the Governor to show them some small 
 attention. After visiting the fort, and being much astonished 
 at the “ great mothers,” the parents, as they expressed it, of 
 rifles and muskets, I took them to the shooting grounds at 
 Wynberg, and placing rifles in their hands requested them to 
 compete with ourselves. We were all astonished at then- 
 success. The eldest beat all but two of their competitors, at 
 a range of 500 yards. 
 
 The Catholic bishop had instructed Nehemiah, a very clever 
 son of Moshesh, in the French language, .vhich he spoke and 
 read with ease. Thus, it was said, lie had the advantage of 
 
90 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 amusing himself with all the recent French novels of the day, 
 the contents of which he greedily devoured. 
 
 In 1876 Xehemiah passed over the lower Drakensberg, and 
 settled in the neighbourhood of Adam Kok’s Country in 
 Griqualaud East. Here he appears to have borne a part in 
 resisting the Queen’s Government. He was arrested and 
 charged with rebellion. The report says that— 
 
 After the most patient and careful investigation it became 
 obviously apparent to the whole assembly that the rebels 
 were acting not only upon a carefully preconcerted plan of 
 action, but also that they were acting under the orders of some 
 head or chief, and it soon became apparent that that head 
 was Xehemiah Moshesh, as two of the principal rebels stated 
 that they were his men, and acting under his orders. Xehemiah 
 was asked repeatedly and most distinctly to clear himself, 
 and has hitherto failed to do so most signally. He was 
 accordingly arrested by order of the chief magistrate, and is 
 now in custody of the Frontier Armed and Mounted Police 
 pending his trial. I am also glad to tell you that the whole 
 meeting unanimously concurred in this course, and universally 
 agreed in the opinion that a most serious crisis had been 
 averted, and that Xehemiah’s capture had prevented some¬ 
 thing like another Langalebalele affair. 
 
 It is now difficult to say in how far Xehemiah was really 
 involved. He was brought down to King William’s Town for 
 trial, but the whole case was at once quashed for want of juris¬ 
 diction because the crime had been committed in a country 
 which was not part of the Cape Colony. 
 
 It is surprising that this should not have been foreseen before 
 he was brought to trial, though, as his offence was treasou, it is 
 difficult to see why he might not have been indicted. 
 
 The war of the Free State against the Basutos was a feud 
 
IX, 
 
 THE CHIEF OF BASUTO LAND. 
 
 91 
 
 lasting over two years, but in the end the Boers annexed a fine 
 country. 
 
 They are however accused of some cruelty in carrying out the 
 war. It is said that, advancing on to the Kafir villages at the 
 moment of daylight, they would fire their cannon on the kraals, 
 and having prepared their mounted men, so soon as the Kafirs 
 started out of their huts, they would dash at them aud cut them 
 down to a man. 
 
 The necessities of the war and the urgent danger to the 
 colony may palliate, if they do not excuse, such severities. 
 
 On reaching the lower end of the valley we were told that we 
 were in the neighbourhood of the dwelling of Letsi, the eldest 
 son of Moshesh, now the paramount chief of Basuto land. 
 
 I was anxious to see him, and for this purpose rode down to 
 his village, in the midst of which was a square-built stone 
 cottage resembling the meanest of the Boers’ farmhouses. In 
 the yard was a waggon which must have cost at least 150 1. 
 
 This was utterly neglected, and from exposure and want of 
 care was being allowed rapidly to fall to pieces; it was probably 
 the gift of some Governor, in the hope that this chief might 
 have been induced by its possession to cause his people to 
 improve in the art of building. 
 
 Letsi came out to meet me, and ushered myself and staff into 
 his sitting room. 
 
 He was a bulky man, dressed in a suit of corduroy, and 
 appeared very intelligent. He expressed his great desire to 
 follow in the steps of his father, and support our Government, 
 to which he has faithfully adhered. 
 
 After some delay a repast was brought in, consisting of salmon 
 from the everlasting English tins, black cakes, and coffee. Of 
 these we were bound to partake much against our inclination, 
 and after a few more compliments we took our leave. Mr. 
 Griffith spoke well of Letsi; he seemed to consider him worthy 
 of trust. At the termination of the interview the chief expressed 
 
92 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 bis wish to present me with a pretty little white pony, which I 
 afterwards rode many hundreds of miles in Pondo land. In 
 return I requested his acceptance of an English saddle and 
 bridle, with military appurtenances, which I sent him from 
 Cape Town. Such interchanges of civilities are in my opinion 
 conducive to friendly feelings, and are hardly sufficiently prac¬ 
 tised at the Cape. 
 
 On the following day we arrived at Madame Rowland’s 
 at Mafuten. She was a most charming person, well versed in 
 the current literature of the day, with a pleasing family, 
 among whom were two charming boys, w'ho both rode wonder¬ 
 fully well, though they were little more than children. 
 
 Mr. Rowland gave us some interesting anecdotes of the 
 Basutos:— 
 
 In illustration of the industry of the people, out of about 
 20,000 able-bodied labourers, 15,000 annually receive passes 
 to go to work in the Free State, Colony, and Diamond Fields, 
 while those who remain at home raise 30 to 40 bags of grain 
 per household. He referred to the hysterical mania which 
 has become epidemic in many of the villages. He compares 
 the phenomena to those of spiritualism, especially in the 
 silliness of the messages purporting to come from the unseen 
 world. The minutes of the annual meeting, or “ Pitso,” 
 are most interesting. Mr. Rowland suggested the restoration 
 of “ Kibakile.” “ Your sons,” said he, “ refuse to obey and to 
 work, because you have left off thrashing them. When I 
 was a boy in the large village of Beersheba there used to 
 be, at about sunset, a great outcry in every direction after 
 the cattle came home. Boys crying out ‘ Kibakile ! Kiba¬ 
 kile ! ’ (I repent, or won’t do so any more.) They were 
 getting whipped for the misdeeds of the day. This Kibakile 
 (i.e. the rod) was a great chief. Since ‘Senekal’s’ war he 
 is dead; at least I never hear any one calling out his name 
 
IX.] 
 
 LET K1BAKILE RISE AGAIN. 
 
 93 
 
 as formerly. That is why your herds are so negligent, and 
 your children so disobedient. Now if you wish to help your¬ 
 self, what you ought to do is to revive this great chief. 
 Bring him to life again. He will put an end to all the 
 disobedience and quarrels and expense of damages.” 
 
 This remark was hailed with loud cries of “ Let Kibakile rise 
 again,” and some gentlemen were so ungallant as to ex¬ 
 claim, “ Our wives need him badly, too.” Several of the 
 speakers echoed this latter sentiment. One chief said, 
 “ Wives should also be corrected; they are also children 
 and in the same position. But we are frightened of getting 
 the cats if we beat them. If we may not beat them, then 
 let us bring them here, and let them also receive the cats.” 
 Another gentleman’s whole speech consisted of the curt 
 observation, “ Thanks; women should be flogged as well as 
 men for insubordination.” The chief Masopha complained 
 bitterly of the treatment of Basutos, in the Free State. 
 “They have,” he said, “ their guns taken from them, and are 
 imprisoned and flogged; all under the Queen’s pass.” 
 
 We here saw a Basuto basket, made from palm leaves, 
 and almost similar to those made in Morocco by the Moors of 
 Barbary. 
 
 We saw a considerable number of ducks and many par¬ 
 tridges, and the quail in August are said to be innumerable. 
 
 This country produces a large amount of maize and Kafir 
 corn; and indeed Basuto land supplies the greater part of the 
 bread-stuffs that are sent to the Diamond Fields. 
 
 We passed the stations of two or three successful traders, 
 where it is said large fortunes are being made, much pains 
 being taken to suit the taste of the native, in regard to the 
 goods which are imported. The ladies are as particular in the 
 selection of their beads as a Parisienne in her toilet. While I 
 was there the only colour they would look at was a violet 
 
94 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 mauve, and a trader must take care to suit their fancies, or 
 they will desert his store. 
 
 All that I saw in Basuto land made me believe that its 
 inhabitants are more capable of advancement than any tribe I 
 saw in South Africa, and are more ready to cast off their 
 old habits and usages. 
 
 As an instance of this I will quote a few lines from the 
 ‘ Little Light,’ a very clever journal published in Basuto laud. 
 
 All the young men of the Marija Institution, Basuto land, who 
 last September obtained Government certificates, are now 
 hard at work, and several of them have commenced new 
 schools; several old ones have been reorganised, and there 
 is a very fair increase in the number of scholars. At 
 the out-station of Koloyana, in the Leribe district, the 
 schoolmaster asked the neighbouring petty chiefs to send 
 the children to school. 
 
 We learn from the ‘ Little Light,’ that one of them, 
 Mapeshoane, said, “ that though he would like his boys to be 
 circumcised, he would ask them which they would prefer, the 
 school or circumcision.” He explained the matter very fully to 
 them, and the result was that they chose school. Accordingly 
 to school they went. But their elders who had been circumcised 
 gave them no rest, abused them by calling them names, until 
 they ran away from school to go and be circumcised at a neigh¬ 
 bouring village. It appears that the father of these children, 
 hearing of this, went to the village, and on their arrival hunted 
 them out from among the other boys, and gave one a sound 
 thrashing. These boys, instead of returning home, hid them¬ 
 selves in the mountain, hoping that the father would go home 
 and they could be circumcised. The father knowing this, gave 
 special warning to the master of these abominable rites that if 
 he dared to administer circumcision to his boys, he would try 
 
IX.] 
 
 MOSAIC CUSTOMS. 
 
 95 
 
 what the law would do to punish him. This settled the diffi¬ 
 culty, the boys returned home and went to school. We con¬ 
 gratulate Mapeshoane on account of his firmness shown in 
 keeping these boys to their original choice, though we are 
 sorry that he is one of the few chiefs who still upholds 
 circumcision. 
 
 Many of the Mosaic customs are prevalent in this country; 
 for instance, that of marrying a deceased brother’s, or even 
 father’s, wife, by which means a provision is insured to her. 
 
96 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 BACK TO PORT ELIZABETH, 
 
 We now left Basuto land and returned to the colony. 
 
 Not long after crossing the Orange river we came upon a 
 neat Fingo location. Their huts were much smarter than any 
 I had previously seen, most of the small domiciles being gaily 
 painted near the doors with curious coloured designs. They were 
 surrounded by small courtyards, which underwent a perpetual 
 course of brushing. The Government agent met us with a 
 very large retinue of his people, probably a thousand in number. 
 These men were all attired in their former war dress, with 
 shield and assegai, feathers, paint, armlet, and war charms. 
 Their salutation was most striking, a low moan like the roar of 
 the sea or distant thunder. 
 
 At the command of their head men they formed into semi¬ 
 circular bands, and commenced their war exercises, alternately 
 advancing and retiring, attacking a supposed enemy and then 
 drawing him on by a feigned retreat. These men were 
 handsome specimens of the natives of South Africa, and are 
 described as obedient and good subjects. 
 
 Under the energetic supervision of Mr. liaise their lands are 
 being rapidly brought under cultivation, they are purchasing 
 ploughs, and many of them own waggons and teams of oxen. 
 As an instance of their independence I was told, that a few 
 days before, a farmer from Aliwal North had come to the 
 native village to endeavour to hire waggoners, offering to pay 
 one shilling per diem wages. A native answered him saying 
 
X.] 
 
 IMPROVEMENT IN THE FREE STATE. 
 
 97 
 
 that he would be quite ready himself to engage double the 
 number of men the farmer required, and be willing to pay 
 them at double the sum offered. 
 
 The war dances or exercises being over, we accompanied 
 Mr. Idalse to his house, where we received much kind 
 hospitality ; his handsome family doing their utmost to 
 entertain us. The young ladies possessed a grand piano, 
 and sang charmingly, a pleasing return to social amenities 
 which for some weeks past we had not had an opportunity of 
 enjoying. 
 
 Mr. Halse’s description of the progress which the Free 
 State had made within his recollection was quite astonishing, 
 and reminded me of the strides in improvement and develop¬ 
 ment that I had witnessed in America. He described to me a 
 farm of 32,000 acres which he had bought for 05/., when it was 
 so overrun with game as to be perfectly useless. He after¬ 
 wards sold it for 6000/., and its value is now fully three times 
 that amount. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Dordrecht coal has been found and 
 reported as easily workable; this cannot foil to prove of 
 inestimable value to the inhabitants, for wood is scarce. Coal 
 has been selling at 15/. the ton, and iron at Qd. the pound, 
 solely on account of the great price to which carriage by 
 bullock-waggon has risen. 
 
 In common with other towns in the east of the colony 
 Dordrecht is improving. An officer of the police told me that 
 he had purchased an erf of land there in 1873 for an old rifle, 
 and in 1871 had sold it for 00/. Now probably it is worth 
 200/. or more. In the hills above are settlements of Finjroes 
 whose small huts are now covered with tin roofs made from 
 the linings of the boxes in which cloth and other goods are 
 brought from England. These people are rapidly progressing 
 in civilisation, a fact demonstrated by their purchase of 
 European articles. No marriage now takes place among these 
 
 ii 
 
98 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 natives without a present from the future husband of a 
 gold wedding-ring. Bridal cakes made in England and sent 
 to the colony frequently find a place at the marriage feast, 
 and, indeed, these weddings are sometimes chronicled in the 
 newspapers. 
 
 Marriage in high life, from the ‘Observer’: H.R.H. Mietge, one 
 of the many daughters of H.H. Panlus Mopeli, was united 
 in the holy bonds of matrimony at the Mission Chapel to 
 
 —-, Esq. The young lady was gracefully attired in 
 
 white, relieved by blue ribbons and sash, which gave a pretty 
 contrast to her jet black complexion. The happy pair, after 
 partaking of a collation, immediately left town to enjoy the 
 honeymoon at Waaihock. 
 
 Native women now are quite conventional in their dress. I 
 saw one black beauty sitting on the bridge, trying on a new 
 pair of stockings that she had just purchased at the store; 
 whilst by her side was a dusky swain, whose entire costume 
 —simplicity itself—consisted of a pair of Wellington boots, 
 with a blanket gracefully thrown over his shoulders. 
 
 Near Blinkwater lies the famous Waterkloof, in which 
 Macomo, the chief, so long defied her Majesty’s troops in the 
 Kafir campaign of ’46, and in which so many of our men 
 perished. After the war the Colonial Government appears to 
 have permitted the nephew of this chief, Tiui Macomo, to pur¬ 
 chase the property, so that he has become a standing menace 
 to the district, and he had broken into rebellion before I 
 left the country, and a considerable force had to be despatched 
 for the purpose of overpowering him. I was informed upon the 
 best authority that in this location native meetings, dances, 
 and orgies were periodically held by members of both sexes, 
 and it is supposed that seditious plans were there discussed, 
 which afterwards bore fruit in rebellion. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Blinkwater are found a large 
 
X.] 
 
 JERBOA-HUNTS. 
 
 99 
 
 number of jerboas, or kangaroo bares, which are hunted at 
 night with lanterns, and afford good sport. 
 
 The only other time that I ever saw them was when the 
 Guards were marching up to the Russian batteries at the Alma, 
 where they were running in scores along the line. 
 
 Here we saw the only milestone which I remember 
 in the colony. At last we reached Port Elizabeth, having 
 been nearly two months absent, during which time v 7 e had 
 travelled 1600 miles. We all returned to Cape Town by the 
 mail steamer. 
 
( 100 ) 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 FEDERATION AND COLONIAL DEFENCE. 
 
 During this journey my attention had naturally been par¬ 
 ticularly directed to two of the many great questions which 
 await solution in South Africa. Upon the first of these I had a 
 right, as an Englishman, to form an independent opinion. 
 Upon the second it was my duty as a soldier to advise my 
 superiors. These questions were, Federation and the military 
 Defence of the colony. 
 
 It must be remembered that there is a specimen of almost 
 every form of Colonial Government in South Africa. A respon¬ 
 sible government in the Cape Colony, the two Crown colonies 
 of Natal and Griquaiand West, the semi-independent native 
 locations of Basuto land, Namaqua land and Kaffraria proper, 
 aud the independent country of Kuti and the Pandos. In 
 addition to these there were till lately two republics, the Orange 
 Free State and the Transvaal. 
 
 As regards the Cape Colony and Natal it is to he observed 
 that there is a high ad valorem duty of 12 per cent, on all 
 goods which pass through their ports up country. The money 
 thus raised goes to defray the Government expenses of these 
 colonies, and it is not to be expected they will willingly forego 
 the advantage it gives them. 
 
 Again, Natal would prove, if federated, a source of danger to 
 the Cape Colony. Not only does it possess a black population 
 of 300,000 as against 20,000 whites, but it has dangerous 
 
XI.] 
 
 OBJECTIONS TO FEDERATION. 
 
 10L 
 
 neighbours against whom the Cape Colony would be bound to 
 assist it, in case of war or rebellion. 
 
 The people of the Transvaal dreaded two results of Fede¬ 
 ration, viz. loss of individual independence and increased 
 taxation, and it was only the late war with the Zulus that 
 convinced them of the compensating advantages they would 
 gain. 
 
 The Orange Free State Republic feared that Federation 
 would not only deprive them of the market they found for their 
 products at the Diamond Fields, but would cause the same 
 unrestricted sale of arms to take place in their country as has 
 existed in the Cape Colony. 
 
 Griqualand West, on the contrary, was eager for annexation, 
 by which not only would it gain protection, but it would have 
 its present heavy taxes relieved by sharing in a portion of the 
 customs dues. 
 
 One of the most talented members of the Natal House of 
 Assembly, speaking of the Cape Colony, says: 
 
 It looks to the north and sees in the three states that lie there 
 much no doubt that is attractive, but much that gives cause 
 for doubt. It fears Natal with her natives, and shrinks from 
 the Transvaal with her debt. It dreads lest, by uniting its 
 fortune with ours, it should imperil or sacrifice the position 
 it holds. This is, perhaps, an unreasonable distrust, but I 
 venture to think it is a feeling which is passing away. 
 
 If this be a true picture of the state of opinion of those 
 who oppose Federation, it is clear that they are each looking 
 rather to the good of his own part of the country than to 
 the welfare of the whole. On the other hand, not only would 
 the colonies be greatly invigorated by Federation, but the 
 native question might really be settled for ever by the 
 adoption of a well-considered vigorous policy and unanimity of 
 action with regard to the Kafirs. Moreover it is obviously 
 
102 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 cheaper to have one military system of defence, than five 
 isolated and fragmentary armies. 
 
 These were the views which Mr. Fronde advocated on his 
 mission to South Africa. Had it not been that the Govern¬ 
 ment of the Cape Colony obstinately and, as I think, need¬ 
 lessly, did all they could to oppose him, he might have 
 succeeded in carrying his point there and then. The seed he 
 sowed, however, has not been lost, and his eloquent speeches 
 are yet destined, I believe, to bear fruit. 
 
 The question is at present dormant. The recent expensive 
 war with the Kafirs, the impending difficulties with the Zulus, 
 the unsettled state of the eastern frontier and the Trans¬ 
 vaal, have no doubt diverted public opinion away from it. 
 As soon, however, as peace is firmly restored, a fresh impetus 
 given to commerce, and security re-established, there is, I 
 think, no doubt that the question will be brought prominently 
 forward, and I hope that it will be settled by a Federation of 
 the whole country south of the Limpopo. A union of all the 
 colonies would not, I think, be so advantageous as a federation, 
 as they differ widely from each other in their position and 
 resources. A parliament at Cape Town would be ill-adapted 
 for settling matters of local importance at Leydenburg; but 
 a Federation which, while leaving minor points to be dealt 
 with by local parliaments, would ensure unanimity in questions 
 of universal importance, would, I believe, arouse patriotism, 
 stimulate industry, increase the value of property, and secure 
 peace. 
 
 The present political position of the colony requires some 
 explanation. There has always been a conflict between the 
 interests of East and West, and the eastern half itself is 
 divided as to political views into three sections : Port Elizabeth, 
 with its port at Algoa Bay; Grahamstown, with Port Alfred 
 at the mouth of the Kowie ; and Queenstown and King- 
 William’s Town, with their pwrt at East London. There 
 
XI.] 
 
 INTER-COLONIAL QUESTIONS. 
 
 103 
 
 is quite as much local antagonism between these sections as 
 there is between the east and west of the colony. By adopting 
 the maxim, “ Divide et impera,” and playing off the several 
 interests against each other, the Cape Ministry can always find 
 supporters in any measure they desire to introduce. 
 
 The East London, Queenstown, and King William’s Town 
 people give general support to the Ministry because they 
 desire advantages to be conceded to them in preference to Port 
 Elizabeth and the Kowie. 
 
 Grahamstown and Port Elizabeth fear to offend the Ministry 
 lest advantages should be accorded to East London ; thus, 
 although I do not think that the east generally is by any 
 means happy and contented under the dominion of the west, it 
 lends a support to the Ministry which enables them to sustain 
 their western influence. 
 
 In consequence of the immense sums of money which the 
 present 1877 Cape Ministry have to spend in railroads, harbour 
 works, and other great undertakings, their patronage has been 
 much augmented. 
 
 They have therefore the power to reward and secure the 
 support of very numerous adherents in the east. Had a dissolu¬ 
 tion of the House of Assembly taken place in 1875 and a fresh 
 parliament assembled, after the programme of Federation had 
 been brought on the platform, and before all these great works 
 had been undertaken, the support to the Ministry would 
 have been very different from what it is now, and the cry for 
 Federation would have been irresistible. 
 
 In the west the Ministry are sure of support, because the 
 cardinal interests of the west have no opponents within their 
 area. These interests point principally in three directions, 
 viz. to secure the customs’ duties to the colony, to retain the 
 parliament in Cape Town, and to see that the interests of that 
 harbour should not be injured in favour of the ports of Port 
 Elizabeth and East London. 
 
104 
 
 31T COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 As the west is perfectly secure from any native incursions, 
 it is its direct interest to try to retain its natural advantages, 
 aud to discourage auy system of frontier defence or other cause 
 of expenditure. 
 
 In fact, though the west can not fairlv he accused of wishing 
 for a native war, yet so far from being injured, the people there 
 are probably the better for it. They gain in trade a great 
 part of what is lost by the east, and the military contracts, to a 
 great extent, fall into their hands. 
 
 The best arrangement which could be made would, I think, 
 be as follows :— 
 
 The Cape Colony should be divided into two parts, the east 
 and west, by a line drawn from Cape Francis to Hopetown, 
 the eastern boundary of the eastern province being a line 
 drawn from the St. John’s River in Kaffraria to Herschel on 
 the Orange River. Natal ought to extend from the St. John’s 
 River to Zululand, embracing as much of that country as must 
 eventually be annexed by the British Government. This would 
 involve the addition of a considerable quantity of native 
 independent country, but a great deal, I am convinced, must 
 ultimately be annexed in any event. The fourth division would 
 consist of the Transvaal, and the fifth of Griqualand West, to 
 which, it is hoped, the Orange Free State would soon request 
 to be joined. By this division none of the provinces would 
 possess too preponderating an influence over the others, whereas, 
 should the Federation consist of one rich and powerful colony 
 and several small ones, the latter might possibly become mere 
 dependents on the former. 
 
 I am not unaware of the difficulty of carrying out such a 
 sweeping change, but I believe that some plan of the kind is 
 essential to the interests both of England aud of the colonies 
 of South Africa. 
 
 But it is from a military point of view that I am best 
 qualified to speak of the benefits of Federation. 
 
XI.] 
 
 A T) VA NT A OES OF FED ERA TIO N. 
 
 105 
 
 The defensive state of the colony was, in niv opinion, most 
 defective. I have elsewhere mentioned the sale of arms to the 
 natives, which the late Government, in order to gain a transitory 
 popularity, so foolishly allowed, and which resulted in the 
 possession by the Kafirs of upwards of 400,000 muskets. 
 
 During my command I repeatedly reported that the police, 
 though of excellent material, were badly organised and ill 
 disciplined, the Commissariat defective, the reserves of am¬ 
 munition and war stores insufficient Thus while the late 
 Government were allowing the natives to obtain the means of 
 creating a rebellion, they were taking no measures to provide 
 for its suppression. As they often said : “ 'The assegai is more 
 formidable in the hands of a native than the musket; moreover, 
 there will never be another Kafir war.” The experience of 
 the Boers against Secocoeni has proved the reverse, and common 
 sense seems to indicate that a native armed with both a musket 
 and assegais, must be more dangerous than one provided with 
 assegais alone. 
 
 But enough of this Government and its follies! It has been 
 dismissed for its incompetence, arrogance, and obstinacy, and, 
 for the sake of the colony, I hope it may not again be heard of. 
 
 Federation alone, I believe, would enable the country to take 
 such military measures as, while they involved the least possible 
 cost, would prove efficient to secure life and property. It must 
 be remembered that a colony like that of South Africa cannot 
 afford to pay large sums for troops; taxes which would be easily 
 paid at home, press hardly upon its rising trades. It is there¬ 
 fore above all things necessary that the military system should 
 be cheap. But it should be effective. A bad thing is dear at 
 any price, and I believe that the indirect losses caused by the 
 late war, the paralysis of trade and the stagnation of enterprise, 
 have had a most detrimental effect on the east of the colony. 
 I do not say that absolute security to the colony could 
 be obtained for nothing, but I do say that a good Federation 
 
106 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 system would enable the colony to maintain a military force, 
 which would be far more effective in proportion to its cost 
 than isolated bands of police or militia can possibly be. Well 
 armed and equipped, it would be ready for immediate action 
 whenever required, so as by vigour at the outset to stamp out 
 incipient rebellion. 
 
 It is very satisfactory to read in the recent papers from the 
 Cape of Good Hope, that the present Prime Minister is 
 reported to have called the attention of the country, in his 
 speeches in the provinces, to the advisability of a system of 
 Federation. The following remarks in reference to the 
 Transvaal are much to the purpose : — 
 
 Why then delay striving for that confederation under the 
 British flag, which will confer upon us the blessing of real 
 and true independence, the inestimable boon of good con¬ 
 stitutional liberty, the glorious gift of security in the possession 
 of our property and the peaceful enjoyment of our lives ? 
 The Transvaal will never know true liberty, never know 
 genuiue independence, never be safe from panic and trouble, 
 until it forms part of a grand South African Dominion, 
 powerful to suppress insolence and punish incipient rebellion 
 wherever manifested among its subjects, able to maintain 
 peace and remove all stumbling-blocks in the way of 
 prosperity wdthin its borders. 
 
 I approve unreservedly of the sentiments uttered in the 
 Imperial Parliament by Sir H. Holland : 
 
 If confederation would strengthen the colonies, in no less 
 degree would it strengthen the empire as a whole. And 
 there are two other advantages of confederation. By con¬ 
 federation are secured uniformity of legislation upon all 
 important questions affecting these great outlying dependen¬ 
 cies of the empire. And by confederation we raised up a 
 
XI.] 
 
 THE PRINCIPLE OF CONFEDERATION. 
 
 107 
 
 school of legislators in the colonies, who from the necessity 
 of their position were forced to take a broader and more 
 liberal view of the questions which came before them, and to 
 take an imperial as distinguished from a provincial point of 
 view. Their political area was enlarged, and they had a 
 sense of the greater responsibility resting upon them. And 
 lastly, he thought, that some day there would be a closer 
 link between the mother country and the colonies by a more 
 direct representation of the colonies in the Central Legisla¬ 
 ture of the empire; the West India Islands grouped under 
 one legislature (as the North American provinces were), the 
 great Australian colonies under another, South Africa under 
 another. Nothing could be more moderate than the manner 
 in which Lord Carnarvon had put the matter before the 
 colonists. A universal assent had been given to the noble 
 lord’s proposal of a conference. The Legislative Council of 
 the Cape, Natal, the Orange Free River State, the Transvaal, 
 and Griqualand, had all agreed to the conference. Lord 
 Carnarvon had been bound to submit the scheme for a 
 confederation to the States, and they showed their entire 
 appreciation of Lord Carnarvon’s act. 
 
( 108 ) 
 
 [Ciiap. 
 
 BOOK If.—K affkkarta and Natal. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE KOMGIIA. 
 
 My next tour of military inspection was to Pondo land and 
 Natal. I reached Port Elizabeth by sea, and, having taken 
 the rail as far as it was completed, proceeded to Graharus- 
 town. 
 
 Crowded six in a small coach, we bumped along until near 
 Nazar, where we overtook the preceding day’s post-cart, 
 standing by the side of the road, one of its wheels having 
 entirely gone to pieces. 
 
 Our doubts whether we should ever reach Grahamstown 
 were increased when, outspanning at a lonely hut in the wide 
 “ veldt,” the only cattle we found in the miserable stable were 
 three glandered horses. The driver directed four of the mail- 
 contract horses to be spanned in, to which the passengers made 
 no objection, though the Postmaster-General might possibly 
 have done so. 
 
 The disease of glanders is becoming very prevalent in the 
 eastern division of the colony. It has been found necessary 
 to destroy many horses belonging to the Frontier Field Force. 
 I imagine that the laws with regard to this dangerous disease 
 are either too weak or, what is worse, are not effectually 
 administered. 
 
 We reached Grahamstown on the evening of the 19th, in a 
 
XII.] 
 
 ROADS AND COACH-BUILDERS. 
 
 109 
 
 drizzling rain and cold wind, and were glad of the hospitality 
 of the Judge. 
 
 On the following morning, when the grouse would be 
 falling in the mountains of Connemara and Galway, we were 
 again on our road. 
 
 We bowled over the firm ground in a new American 
 carriage, which the Judge had lately bought in Port Eliza¬ 
 beth, behind four handsome bays, driven by the most expert 
 whip iu the country, and drove by two o’clock into Fort 
 Brown. These American carriages (called spiders) are super¬ 
 seding the English covered spring carts so universally used 
 here. 
 
 The roads which are common in the colony, and connect 
 the largest towns, differ as widely from the road from London 
 to Hounslow as the latter does from a Welsh country lane. 
 But it is impossible to fix this in the understanding of an 
 English coackmaker. He is not wise enough simply to imitate 
 a model which would secure him a fine profit, but insists that 
 he knows what the colonists require better than they do them¬ 
 selves. 
 
 After a hasty breakfast at Fort Brown, we entered the thick 
 bush by a road which astonished even our Judge, and made his 
 spider tremble, as it bounded over rocks and chasms for ten 
 miles down a precipitous “ kloof,” a young moon serving to 
 light our way. 
 
 At nightfall we drew up at Mr. Miller’s farm, close to an 
 old fort, which bore signs of having passed through many 
 vicissitudes. 
 
 Mr. Miller had been engaged in every Kafir war since the 
 year 1835, and his interesting stories secured our eager 
 attention during the rest of the evening. 
 
 At early dawn the view was really beautiful; the Fish river 
 winding among the precipitous deeply-wooded hills, studded 
 with aloes, bearing at this time of the year their bright scarlet 
 
110 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 flowers, which were frequently mistaken by our soldiers in the 
 war for Kafir warriors, and fired upon accordingly. 
 
 The kloofs I looked upon were the last resting-places of 
 many a poor soldier in one Kafir war. Two soldiers, having 
 strayed into the bush, and mistaking the fires of the enemy for 
 those of their companions, fell into the hands of these devils, 
 and were tortured, their dying screams being heard in the 
 stillness of the night, without it being possible for their 
 comrades to render them any assistance. 
 
 Attended by about thirty Kafirs, we ascended the hills, 
 being posted in the best position to get a chance of a 
 koodoo. This magnificent deer is almost extinct in the 
 colony, but in Zulu land and on the Limpopo he is still 
 common. 
 
 He manages his long horns most skilfully while dashing 
 through the bush, carrying them almost level with his back, 
 and on meeting with an obstacle quickly turning them into a 
 sidelong position. 
 
 Soon a shout was given. A koodoo had broken cover, and 
 rushed wildly towards the very bush behind which I was 
 stationed. I fired through the brake, and grazed the back of 
 the deer. It was a female, of no size; the male cunningly 
 escaped scot-free. 
 
 Some smaller deer were driven out, such as bush-buck, 
 raibok, and the tiny bluebok. 
 
 Attached to us on this occasion was a clever sportsman, a 
 sergeant of police. His keenness as a shot, in my opinion, 
 enhanced his qualifications as a soldier. 
 
 On Wednesday the 26th of August we left King William’s 
 Town, accompanied by an agreeable companion, the Com¬ 
 mandant of the Frontier Force. 
 
 The country is open and undulating. We passed a 
 mission station at Peel Town. Here, in the last war of 1846, 
 it is related that the attitude of the Kafirs frightened the 
 
THE MISSIONARY'S PUPIL. 
 
 Ill 
 
 XL] 
 
 missionary, who retired to Alice. Having a well-replenished 
 cellar, he directed a faithful Kafir to assist him in burying 
 his wine previous to his departure. Some months after, to 
 his horror, he read in a newspaper an account of a cheerful 
 evening spent at Peel Town by some native levies and a 
 Burgher force, and the handsome entertainment which they 
 received from a Katir left on the station; dozens of wines, 
 brandies, &c., &c., having been placed at their disposition, 
 the faithful Kafir-pupil of the missionary no doubt having his 
 own share. 
 
 We lunched at Heath’s Hotel, Hangman’s Bush, the host 
 of which was surrounded by all those comforts which make 
 life valuable. He was an old soldier, who had served in my 
 company in the 60th Rifles, when we were stationed at Corfu 
 thirty years ago. It was pleasant to meet an old comrade in 
 arms. 
 
 The name Hangman’s Bush dates from an episode in the 
 last war, when a traitor Kafir was hanged by order of 
 General Eyre, a strict disciplinarian, whom I well remember 
 in the Crimea, and whose determination was on many occasions 
 of the utmost value to the colony. 
 
 We next outspanned at Mr. Kelly’s, Draaibosch. Surround¬ 
 ing the house was a large number of natives, sunning them¬ 
 selves, and occupied in discussing the merits of sundry bottles 
 of a white spirit known as Boer brandy. These wretched 
 creatures spend all their money and much of their time in 
 this way, and are fast degenerating from the noble savage into 
 miserable beasts. It is stated that they have no difficulty in 
 swallowing a quart of this vile liquid at a time. A short 
 distance off were groups of women, w ho approached the canteen 
 in long tiles, each bearing on her head a bottle. The spirit 
 which they procured was used, I am told, for adding to their 
 Kafir beer. 
 
 Near this is a lofty rock, from which in former days wretched 
 
112 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOOTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chav. 
 
 people accused of witchcraft were hurled. This is reported to 
 have been a daily occurrence. 
 
 On arriving at the Komgha, guards of honour were prepared 
 to receive me—one from the Frontier army, and one formed of 
 Mounted Volunteers under Captain Cowie. 
 
 The volunteer cavalry in this colony are a particularly fine 
 body of men, formed of young and able fanners, thoroughly 
 accustomed to exposure. They are accustomed to regard 
 as an everyday occurrence what others might 'deem extreme 
 hardship. It is this which makes the force so especially 
 valuable, and the only points in which it can be considered 
 inefficient are its weakness in numbers, the power of its members 
 to relinquish their services at short notice, and their want of 
 military habits. 
 
 We spent a very pleasant evening at the Komgha, and were 
 hospitably received by the officers of the frontier army. The 
 Komgha is the artillery station of this force. It is here that 
 all the troopers are instructed in gunnery. For this purpose 
 an officer of her Majesty’s artillery has been attached. I was 
 much gratified with the progress which had been made, which 
 cannot fail to be of essential service. The guns, new breech¬ 
 loading 12-pounders, were furnished with iron carriages, and, in 
 my opinion, were of too weighty a pattern for effective service 
 either in a mountainous country, or one devoid of roads. I am 
 therefore in hopes that guns of a smaller calibre and pattern in 
 future may be selected, as I am convinced they would be more 
 appropriate for the uses to which they are likely to be put. 
 
 At the Komgha we received news which might have caused 
 some anxiety regardingthe Transkei. Her Majesty’s Resident had 
 sent a request that the Frontier Field Force might be held in 
 readiness, their horses carefully foraged, and kept in a fit state for 
 instant movement. The cause of these proceedings was that a 
 number of Pondos, in the country to the west of St. John’s 
 River, under the chief Hamas, had taken possession of a tract of 
 
XII.] 
 
 1 “BECAME TWO BANDS.' 
 
 113 
 
 land under “ Umditchwa,” the Pondomisi chief, and refused 
 to move. 
 
 Umditchwa had lately, after continued application on his 
 part, received a promise of our protection, so that war upon 
 him was war upon us. The country which had been invaded 
 was the very corner of Kaffraria which we should pass through, 
 so that the interest, indeed I may say the excitement, was 
 considerably heightened. 
 
 It was even doubtful whether my advance might not bring 
 the question to an issue; but I calculated that in all pro¬ 
 bability it would be construed into a determination to settle 
 this particular question, and that the thirty or forty cavalry 
 soldiers who were to attend me would be magnified into an 
 army, so that Damas would become alarmed, and direct his 
 people to retire. My calculation proved correct. 
 
 These troops accompanied me, and as I was attended, if not 
 by the artillery itself, by the commanding officer of that force, 
 by a species of exaggeration common to these people, the 
 advance of two separate armies was announced, and it was 
 even reported that two camps had been formed, and that 
 thousands of tents whitened the valleys. 
 
 Prudence then came to the councils of Damas, and orders 
 were issued by him to forbid any further advance of the Pondos. 
 
 The next cause of anxiety to me was the position of the forces, 
 it being said that a waggon had been detained at the Umtata 
 river, one of the tributaries of St. John’s, for four months during 
 the last wet season, without the possibility of moving through the 
 “ drift.” Moreover it would be impossible to turn back in case 
 of rain, as the rivers behind would in that case become as impas¬ 
 sable as those in front. The weather, however, gave every sign 
 of continuing fine and steady, and we hoped our journey would 
 be over before the wet season set in. We left the Komgha at 
 10 a.m. of the 27th of August. From this town I was accom¬ 
 panied by an intelligent and well-informed officer of the Royal 
 
 i 
 
114 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Engineers, and by an officer of the Frontier Field Force, who 
 commanded my cavalry escort. We had two or three ponies 
 each, our baggage being in a strong Cape cart drawn by six 
 mules with three “ mittous,” and the excellent driver who had 
 already been with us in the Free State. I much preferred 
 ponies; but as it would be needful to have at least one charger 
 to mount on special occasions, I purchased a strong and hand¬ 
 some dark bay for this purpose. 
 
 By midday we reached the Kei river, passing rapidly down a 
 steep declivity to the bank, the frowning summit of “ Murderers’ 
 Kop ” looking over the drift. The mountain is named after a 
 sad tragedy which happened when Sir P. Maitland was camped 
 here. A party of young officers determined to explore the 
 country. Mounting their horses after “ tiffin,” they rode to the 
 top of the hill, obtaining an excellent view of the Transkei 
 and the enemy’s country beyond. Unseen by them, the Kafirs 
 had noticed their presence on the Kop, and stealing up by a 
 rugged by-path, they suddenly attacked the party, not one of 
 whom escaped to carry the news of the disaster to the camp. 
 
 The Kei river is the boundary line between the responsible 
 government of the Cape Colony and the people of the Kafir 
 States, whose only law is might, and who practise the mystic 
 rites of witchcraft (or smelling out). 
 
 It is requisite to watch these countries with unceasing care, 
 lest their feuds should imperil the safety of natives residing 
 within our borders and under our protection. 
 
 The jealousies of tire tribes among themselves, if we 
 fomented and encouraged them, would lead to their mutual 
 destruction, and apparently to our benefit. After they had 
 eaten one another up like the Kilkenny cats, we could easily 
 step in and divi'le the land. I need hardly say, however, 
 that besides being dishonest and unchristian - like, such a 
 course would be very impolitic. 
 
 Our most prudent policy is to use our best endeavours to 
 
THE NATIVE TRIBES OF THE TRANSFER 
 
 115 
 
 XII.] 
 
 soothe their animosities, and forbid party disputes. To be 
 effective, however, our influence must be enforced by power. 
 
 The best course to pursue is, therefore, the one we are now 
 taking, by placing in each country a Resident of capability, 
 discretion, and courage, ready to hear the complaints of all 
 parties, so that when the chief of a petty state, supported by 
 the voice of his people, asks to be taken under our rule and 
 protection, he may carefully consider and ultimately grant the 
 request. In the discharge of such responsible duties there 
 must, no doubt, be great discretion shown. 
 
 How such a boon is regarded by the native chiefs them¬ 
 selves will be seen in subsequent pages. 
 
 The natives of the Transkei may be roughly divided into 
 four distinct classes : Pondos, Tembus, Galekas, and Fingoes. 
 
 The first are powerful, the second weakly, the third warlike, 
 and the fourth industrious. The Fingoes, who were formerly 
 slaves and much despised, have now more wealth and energy 
 than any of the others. Besides these four, many small offsets 
 and tribes have entered the country. Even amongst the four 
 I have named, there are many authorities of different power, 
 and, indeed, the people of the Transkei cannot be looked upon 
 as a happy family. 
 
 The Kei is a fine river running between high mountains, 
 constantly varying in the volume of its waters. In the dry 
 season it is easily fordable at certain definite points; but 
 during the rains of summer even its best drifts are dangerous. 
 
 On the other side of the Kei, the country which we next 
 entered was Fingoland, which is under a resident magistrate. 
 The Fingoes were formerly a race subject to other more powerful 
 tribes. It was good policy to gather them together, and place 
 them in a position to act as a buffer or check between our 
 colony and the wilder inhabitants of the Transkei. 
 
 I was met by “ Veldtman,’' a Fingo chief or headman, with 
 about four hundred mounted men. As an attention, he had 
 
 i 2 
 
116 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 ordered a table to be placed under a wide-spreading tree, on 
 which was laid out a simple repast, and' his kindness was much 
 appreciated. 
 
 Yeldtman appeared to be a man with much strength of 
 character; he is placed in a responsible position and seems to 
 show much judgment. 
 
 At every 100 yards fresh horsemen joined the procession, 
 saluting us by firing off guns or raising the right hand above 
 the head, and calling out in a guttural tone “ Buget,” which, 
 literally translated, is “ Bring presents.” Falling into the 
 rear they swelled the train till it numbered at least 500. 
 Although all of them could not boast of saddles, they formed 
 a very respectable escort, when the general wildness of the 
 scenery and the rudeness of the people were taken into 
 consideration. 
 
 Temporarily allotted to me by the party was a “ Bongo,” or, 
 as we call him, a trumpeter. The duties of this individual were 
 loudly to extol the deeds of the great persons to whom they are 
 attached. Some of his laudations were translated to me, and 
 there was no feat of arms, from those of Don Quixote to those 
 of the great Duke of Wellington, which my trumpeter did not 
 declare that I accomplished daily. Fortunately the natives 
 placed confidence in him, and did not call upon me to verify 
 his assertions. The Bongo was a very old man, but he ran for 
 miles beside my horse without apparent fatigue. I was told 
 that he interlarded his flatteries with frequent appeals to the 
 great men to give him a pony, saying that he was lame, and 
 that they ought to be ashamed to allow a man of his talents 
 to walk while so many ignorant men rode. 
 
 By midday we reached Captain Blythe’s residence, a com¬ 
 fortable house situated on a hill-slope, well supplied with 
 water. I much regretted the absence of the Resident him¬ 
 self, though every attention was shown me by Mr. Levy, who 
 officiated for him. In the afternoon a great gathering of the 
 
XII.] 
 
 KRELI AND THE OALEKAS. 
 
 117 
 
 people took place round the Court-house, where, through an 
 interpreter, I complimented them on their improvement, and on 
 their loyalty to her Majesty and the Government. 
 
 I had much pleasure in visiting the Fingoes. Evidently the 
 pleasure was mutual. 
 
 Now that they are practically free, and by their energy 
 rich, they are beginning to be proud of their position, and are 
 equally capable of appreciating a compliment and of resenting 
 a slight. 
 
 Personally I should have preferred visiting the renowned 
 Kreli, chief of the Galekas. He was represented as a warrior 
 of no common capacity and courage; but it was considered 
 inadvisable. So great is the terror in which Kreli is held, that 
 the Fingoes are most anxious to be permitted to enrol them¬ 
 selves for the purpose of carrying arms, as their country borders 
 his state. The request seems not unreasonable, if dependence 
 is to be placed on the report of the number of muskets daily 
 procured by the Galekas. Even with Kreli a fear of the conse¬ 
 quences appears to have some weight, for although he had at 
 that time been threatening an attack upon his neighbours the 
 Tembus, he had wisely refrained from carrying this into exe¬ 
 cution. I heard that Kreli was nervously anxious with regard 
 to my visit, especially desiring to know the number of my escort, 
 and my object in visiting the wilds of the Transkei. 
 
 At the Fingo Station I met Major Malan; the last time I 
 had seen him was in the Crimea. Although a man of fortune 
 and distinguished as a military officer, he had quitted the service 
 from a feeling of devotion to religion, and became a missionary 
 in these out-of-the-way wilds. He told me that the Fingoes 
 were becoming too civilised to need his exertions, so that in a 
 few days he intended to seek the wilder tribes now under 
 Hamas on the coast, between Kreli and the Pondos, who he 
 hoped might profit by his instruction. 
 
 We parted each of us on his own road. I thought lie 
 
118 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XII. 
 
 appeared to feel it, when we reverted to my present and his 
 former profession. He took his solitary way with the dark 
 natives in the wilderness, and I resumed my active duties with 
 their responsibilities and pleasures. Each of us had his own 
 cares. Although we were treading different roads, both, I trust, 
 were leading us to the same goal. 
 
( 119 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 GANGALESWE. 
 
 Eaiily on the morning of the 29th I awoke from a refreshing 
 sleep—the flowers of Captain Blyth’s pretty garden, especially 
 the violets, perfuming the whole cottage—and after a delicious 
 bath, for which his residence is famous, we were again on the 
 road. 
 
 The inhabitants of the neighbouring kraals seemed to be in 
 a thriving condition. Indeed, a beggar of any colour is never 
 met with in South Africa, although plenty of idle, well-to-do 
 natives may be seen. We outspauned for breakfast near the 
 small stream Ixilingxa, where we met Mr. Wright, the magis¬ 
 trate attached to the Tambookie country, who accompanied us 
 as far as Clarkebury. I must add that it is requisite to use 
 some caution in drinking water at these streams, as they are 
 infested with tadpoles which enter into the system, are diffi¬ 
 cult to extirpate, and are said to increase iu size until they 
 affect the body with fearful involuntary twitching?, like their 
 own impulsive movements. 
 
 At the Idutehwa Reserve we were met by Gangeleswe (“as 
 big as the world ”), chief of the Tembus, accompanied by about 
 forty followers, each with his gun or rifle. 
 
 Gangeleswe is a coarse-looking savage, about thirty years of 
 age, and about 6 feet 2 inches high, dressed in a suit of well- 
 worn tweed, with a cowrie shell stuck in the skin of one ear. 
 He was meanly mounted. I own that what I had heard of 
 him had not prepossessed me in his favour, and it corresponded 
 
MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [CnAP. 
 
 120 
 
 with his appearance. Gangeleswe, the Tambookie, married a 
 daughter of Ivreli, the Galeka. Returning one day to his kraal, 
 his young and pretty wife displeased him, it is said, by having 
 made use of a word in which occurred one or two of the syl¬ 
 lables used in spelling his name (a fatal offence among these 
 people). Savage in word and deed, he raised his ever-ready 
 knobkerrie, and, letting it fall with full strength, broke her leg. 
 The poor thing crawled out of his hut, and, after hiding in the 
 bush for two or three days, managed to meet with some friendly 
 assistance, and ultimately reached her father Ivreli’s home. 
 Gangeleswe now became much alarmed lest the wrath of the 
 great chief should overtake him. He therefore sent messengers, 
 and as an account of this is given in the native style it may be 
 interesting:— 
 
 The messengers of Gangeleswe, having arrived at the kraal of 
 Kreli, delivered their message. The first question was, “By 
 whom had they been sent ? ” The answer was, “ By the 
 people and in pity to the motherless children.” Question: 
 “ Where are the great men of the tribe, and where are so 
 and so (four or five of Gangeleswe’s wives being enumerated, 
 who were said to have been killed) ? ” The reluctant reply 
 was, “ Dispersed and driven away by the chief.” After much 
 talk, Tonise was told to return and say, “ A child had been 
 sent by the Galekas to the Halas (Gangeleswe’s branch of 
 the Tambookies). After a while rumours of ill-usage reached 
 the Galekas. The rumours were denied by different people. 
 Feltman among the number. Eventually the rumours proved 
 true, and the bones of the child of the Galekas returned. 
 The matter was reported to Government, who said we might 
 bury the bones, or otherwise do as we pleased regarding 
 them ; and is it reasonable that we shall now send back this 
 skeleton to the man, who, according to your own admission, 
 has driven away the great man of the tribe and maimed his 
 
XIII.] 
 
 A FAMILY QUARREL. 
 
 121 
 
 wives, and who is now said to be cruelly using the orphans 
 whom you profess to pity ? Return, and say we sent our 
 daughter to the Hala chief; her return to the Galekas has not 
 been reported to us by the Halas. She is not here.” Tonise, 
 as in duty bound, expressed gratitude for the reply, stating 
 that he would return again. To this there was no objection, 
 and thus the matter stands at present. 
 
 The assertion that the woman is not with the Galekas may 
 mean either that she is not publicly or officially there as be¬ 
 comes her birth and position, having crawled away secretly 
 from her husband; or it may mean that, being maimed and 
 disfigured, she is now but a shadow of her former self—in fact, 
 “a skeleton,” no longer fit to be the wife of a chief. She has 
 returned to her father’s tribe to be buried by them, and not by 
 the tribe to whom she was sent. 
 
 When Gangeleswe made his first demand for the return of 
 Kreli’s daughter, the matter was reported to Government, and 
 Kreli was informed that he might use his own discretion in 
 reference to sending her back; and thus he says, “Government 
 said he might bury her if he thought fit.” 
 
 In the spring of 1873 Gangeleswe was accused of causing a 
 waiting-maid of his wife’s (Kreli’s daughter) to be put to death, 
 which on inquiry was found to be true. 
 
 The injury to Kreli’s daughter was considered a cause of 
 quarrel. Kreli attacked the Tambookies in the mountains near 
 Clarkebury, and lacking courage to defend his country or his 
 race, deserted by his warriors, Gangeleswe was found alone in a 
 pitiable condition by the missionary. Kreli, obedient to the 
 voice of good counsel, retired to his own land without following 
 up his victory. Gangeleswe in his extremity implored our 
 Government to take his country under their protection; but 
 before his petition could be considered, seeing that the present 
 danger was past, he begged to reconsider his request, and thus 
 
122 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH A FI! 1C A 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 ruled some time longer, receiving an allowance from our 
 Government. 
 
 An amusing story is told of a Tambookie warrior that 
 reminds me of the Green Island, for many years my happy 
 residence. 
 
 Two Tambookies running from the field of battle hid them¬ 
 selves in a hole, but the leg of one unfortunately protruding 
 caught the eye of some wary Icalaka. They pulled him out, 
 and were preparing to slay him, when lie cried, “ Spare me, and 
 I will tell you something.” They paused, and he said, “ There 
 is yet another man in that hole.” The second hidden warrior 
 hearing this, called out from his place of concealment, “Don’t 
 believe him, kill him at once, he tells lies, there is no one in 
 here.” But it availed him nothing, and, after the custom of 
 Kafirs, the two prisoners were forthwith assegaied. 
 
 In the following year the Cape Colonial Government sent 
 Commandant Bowker with a considerable force to settle their 
 disputes, which, by his judgment and discretion, he seems to 
 have done in the most satisfactory manner. The following is a 
 short account of the facts :— 
 
 On the day following, the meeting took place, and was short 
 and satisfactory, with very little excitement, as the effect of 
 fire-water had passed. The Pondos then unconditionally 
 accepted the announcement, and would let byegones be 
 byegones. They broke up, and proceeded by invitation to 
 see and hear Bow'ker’s missionaries who preach peace. One 
 of these, a small cannon, was taken to a spot, and under the 
 able management of Captain Robinson threw some shells for 
 the edification of the many Pongos who had assembled to 
 witness the proceedings. At the word “ fire,” the gun 
 responded by a loud report, and the shell hastened to its 
 destination, which had previously been indicated, and 
 then burst, to the no small astonishment of the natives. 
 
XIII.] 
 
 MISSIONARIES WHO PREACH PEACE. 
 
 123 
 
 N’gwilso ventured to look into the cannon’s mouth. The 
 discharge of a rocket was also the cause of much astonish¬ 
 ment, and one of the spectators made a bolt. The chief 
 N’gwilso remarked very naively, “No wonder that you Eng¬ 
 lish overcome us!” and proceeded to ask, “Who taught you 
 these things?” We may state in conclusion that Bowker’s 
 mission has been successful in initiating a new and peaceful 
 state between the Pondos and Halas, and the value of the 
 mission may be guessed at by a remark which we heard 
 N’gwilso make, and that was, “ Come, Bokolo, fire away 
 you need not mind about wasting your ammunition; you 
 have none to fight with; you have come in peace, and not to 
 fight.” 
 
 Gangeleswe was evidently most uneasy in his European 
 dress. The only object which excited his attention was the 
 instrument belonging to the trumpeter, which he was most 
 anxious to obtain, saying that he would direct one of his 
 councillors to play it for his amusement. 
 
 It is customary in South Africa on the occasion of a visit 
 from a person of superior rank to present him and his followers 
 with an ox. Should his party not be of sufficient number to 
 consume the whole, the remainder is shared by the followers of 
 the donor. Gangeleswe, though so powerful in his kraal, was 
 unable or unwilling to provide the ox; he made great excuses 
 to the interpreter, saying that it was coming; but finally two 
 wretched sheep were substituted, and the chief himself, pro¬ 
 bably ashamed of his want of hospitality, vanished in the night 
 without even taking leave of his guest. 
 
 After a lonely and somewhat fatiguing ride of thirty-five 
 miles we reached the Ungwali river, immediately over which 
 is situated the Mission Station of Clarkebury. 
 
 We encamped immediately on the other side of the river, 
 as it is always wise to place a river behind one, lest before the 
 
124 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XIII. 
 
 morning it should be rendered unfordable by sudden rains. 
 At Clarkebury I bid adieu to Lieutenant Robinson, who had 
 accompanied me thus far. Parting thus with one of my 
 armies, I continued my journey with the smaller escort. 
 
 The skins of nearly all the Kafirs whom we now met were 
 of a polished Honduras-mahogany red. Both men and women 
 used largely the red-ochre clay; it is said that they are 
 thus protected from the bites of noxious insects and vermin. 
 Lingoes use it as well as Kafirs. 
 
 The Commissioner in Basuto land has directed that this red 
 clay should not be introduced into that country, at which the 
 traders complain, as a considerable profit is made from its 
 supply; but in Basuto land the blue coat, round hat, and 
 corduroy trousers, have been adopted to a very great extent, 
 more especially since the opening of the Diamond Fields. 
 
( 125 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 WITCHCRAFT. 
 
 The natives whom we now met, both men and women, gene¬ 
 rally wore no clothing but a few slight ornaments. 
 
 An hour after leaving Clarkebury we reached the Bashee 
 river, crossing it at a difficult and dangerous ford full of 
 slippery rocks and boulders. Our only mishap was one to 
 the cart, the wheels of which getting caught between two 
 rocks received such a severe strain as caused the axles to 
 spread at least six inches out of the level, in which condition 
 they remained until we reached Natal. 
 
 We also crossed the Umtata river, noted for the slipperiness 
 of its rocky drift. The water was low, but at other times it is 
 deep and dangerous. Immediately on the other side we met an 
 old man of the name of Kaye, who had served in the Kafir 
 wars with the 2nd Queen’s. I shall never forget his delight 
 when he found my aide-de-camp to be the son of his old captain. 
 “ My boy,” he said, “ I look upon you as a son.” He was doing 
 well, being sober, industrious and steady, and he possessed good 
 horses, sheep, and a large number of cattle. 
 
 Mr. Orpen, the Resident of the St. John’s Territory, met us 
 here. Although not previously acquainted with him, having 
 read so many of his letters published in parliamentary docu¬ 
 ments on this country, I felt as if I knew him. I had many 
 an interesting conversation with him, receiving an immense 
 amount of information as regards the Transkei, Basuto land, 
 the Free State, and the colony. 
 
12 G 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Contrary to the expectation of many, we had not seen one 
 single head of game in this wide-spread country, neither did we 
 see any, with the exception of half-a-dozen rei-buck, during our 
 entire journey to Natal. The fact is, that where Kafirs live no 
 game can long exist. They persecute them morning, evening 
 and night, in and out of season. No sooner is a deer seen than a 
 whole kraal turns out, and, surrounding the bush into which it 
 is tracked, each armed with a bundle of assegais, they assail 
 the unfortunate animal and destroy it. 
 
 We had now entered that portion of the country of the 
 Pondos which is ruled over by Pamas, the younger brother of 
 Umquikela, the paramount chief. These two chiefs are both 
 the sons of the great King Faku, who considered that Pondo 
 land should be under the rule of the elder. But the younger, 
 Pamas, does not share this opinion, and bids his elder brother 
 take it if he can. A few days ago they declared war, and 
 some few Pondos were watching on the hills the advance of my 
 “army.” Otherwise the country was very quiet, so that the 
 intention they had expressed of attacking the Pondomise had 
 evidently been postponed. 
 
 We met a friendly old settler, Mr. Owen, at the Umtata. He 
 had been a surgeon in the Old East India’s Company Navy, 
 but liking land better than water, and freedom in the wikis 
 more than being cooped up on shipboard, he had exchanged 
 the cockpit for a snug cottage in Pondo land, where he had 
 now resided many years. He had the grazing over an unlimited 
 range of country, and possessed many thousands of sheep and 
 several hundred head of cattle, in addition to a store where 
 everything that a Kafir could require was to be procured. No 
 rents were demanded by the chief for grazing or occupation, 
 but continued presents were expected, and indeed required. 
 Lately a better system had crept in, and a rent of 51. per annum 
 had been arranged to be paid by each settler. 
 
 This rent cannot be considered excessive for such a range of 
 
XIV.] 
 
 THE DEVIL IN THE WOOD. 
 
 127 
 
 pasturage. Mr. Owen gave us some home-made bread, a great 
 luxury in this country; he could not procure milk for us. He 
 had allowed his Kafirs to milk his cows after dark; the conse¬ 
 quence was, he said, that no milk was forthcoming. A curious 
 custom exists of always milking cows in presence of the calf, 
 indeed a stuffed calf is sometimes kept in sight of the mother, 
 otherwise no milk can he obtained from the cow. The settlers 
 on the Umtata complained that they are constantly robbed of 
 their cattle, but as they live on the borders of the Tambookies 
 and not far distant from the Pondomise, it was impossible to 
 say who were the cattle-lifters. How much this state of things 
 reminded us of what we read regarding the Scottish Border in 
 old times! 
 
 In Kafirs two great characteristics are noticeable, super¬ 
 stition and theft. The second, though almost a law of Kafir 
 nature, is held under control by the first, which is often made 
 use of for protective purposes. A settler on the Umtata having 
 been robbed of some wood, a very valuable commodity in this 
 country, and suspecting the Kafirs, bored some of his logs, 
 and, having inserted gunpowder carefully, plugged up the holes. 
 More thefts occurred, but a few days afterwards a report spread 
 that the devil had got into all the wood used at this station. 
 The owner of the wood naturally concluded that his gunpowder 
 had something to do with this extraordinary circumstance, as 
 from that moment no wood was missing. 
 
 In the Transkei, accusations and trials for witchcraft still pre¬ 
 vail, and are a most profitable source of revenue to the chiefs. 
 
 In the protected states, where our Residents are the ruling 
 authorities, it is gradually disappearing, hut in Pondo land, 
 both in Damas and Umquikcla’s division, we hear of it con¬ 
 stantly. I was told that at least five men per week were 
 “smelt out,” their property confiscated to the chief and them¬ 
 selves put to death. The system is carried on in the following 
 
 manner. 
 
128 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 One person accuses another, unknown, of having butchered 
 his child, &c. The medicine-man or doctor is then called in 
 for the object of “ smelling out ” the accused; the accusation 
 generally lighting upon some well-to-do person who possesses 
 cattle. He is seized, and put to various tortures to make him 
 plead guilty; and indeed it is of little use for him to deny it, 
 as the power of the medicine-doctor is used with great vigour. 
 Forthwith, by his prescience, the doctor discovers some sign 
 which he declares proves the guilt. No sooner is the verdict 
 given than the wretched man is seized and murdered, or possibly 
 burned, his property in wives or cattle confiscated, a great 
 portion going to the chief, some to the doctor, and some to the 
 accuser. The best chance for the poor creature is at once to 
 fly for protection to the missionaries, where he is usually safe. 
 He is lucky if he escapes, even though he loses every earthly 
 thing he possesses. The protection enjoyed under the mission¬ 
 aries is very great, for although they are not under the 
 protection of the Government, yet, by custom, they hold a 
 power which in these wild regions places them beyond the 
 control of the chief, so that, without a gun in their possession, 
 they rest as securely as if surrounded by a legion of warriors. 
 It is dreadful that such horrors should exist close to our borders, 
 but there is no way of putting a stop to them except by 
 annexing the country. 
 
 “ Witchcraft again.” —We are informed that a few days 
 ago a most cruel murder was perpetrated in Kreli’s 
 country through witchcraft. It appears from what we 
 hear, that one of the influential men of the tribe dis¬ 
 covered or pretended that lung-sickness was among his 
 cattle, and accordingly sought the aid of the witch 
 “Doctor” to find out “the enemy” who had done this. 
 A young man (possibly somewhat wealthy in cattle) was 
 indicated by the witch “Doctor,” and measures were of 
 course taken to secure him ; but, getting scent of the design, 
 
XIV.] 
 
 LOVE AN1) WITCHCRAFT. 
 
 129 
 
 upon him, he absented himself from home dining the day, 
 and returning at night; alas! only to meet a most cruel 
 fete. Myrmidons of the “ Doctor,” and his prompter were 
 in waiting, seized the unfortunate young man, and after the 
 usual tortures, he was stabbed to death in the most merciless 
 manner. Such is the brief account of this sad affair as 
 narrated to us, and respecting which we trust the British 
 authorities will institute inquiry. It is a disgrace to civili¬ 
 sation that such abominable doings should be allowed to be 
 practised on our very borders, a practice which those best 
 informed on these matters believe is of very frequent occur¬ 
 rence amongst the tribes beyond the Kei. The murderer is 
 said to have been taken up, but was simply fined a few 
 head of cattle, which, for aught we Know, may have been paid 
 out of the spoil taken from his murdered victim. 
 
 A tragical scene has lately occurred amongst the Pondomise, 
 the foundation of which is the powerful native belief in 
 witchcraft. The circumstances are as followsA young 
 girl manifests unusual wildness of manner, and frantically 
 
 struggles, saying she is going to -, and mentions the 
 
 name of her lover. Her conduct is so boisterous that her 
 friends are forced to detain her: she breaks away from them 
 and runs to where her love is, in a partially naked state. 
 Arriving there, she casts herself into his arms—he is very 
 much astonished—her friends very much grieved. The 
 oracle must be consulted, who is generally known by name 
 of “Doctor.” He states that the cause of this is that the 
 girl has been acted upon by the lover with certain potent 
 charms. The man—who has a wife and child—denies this ; 
 but public opinion is strong in the erroneous belief. 
 
 The man is so grieved by this persistency in spite of his decla¬ 
 ration of innocence, that he determines to destroy himself, 
 and in order thereto, loads his gun and then goes into his hut 
 where his wife and child are sitting. He lays the gun down 
 
130 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH A FI! IGA. 
 
 [Chai\ 
 
 by his side and stretches for his infant, and kissing it, hands 
 it back to the mother, who is shortly afterwards startled by 
 the report of a gun, and by seeing her husband rolling 
 about. Friends soon come in and find that he is not dead, 
 the ball has passed through near his right breast. He can 
 still speak, and says he shot himself because they would 
 not believe his statement of innocency, and the accusation 
 was painful to him. In a few hours he died, adding one man 
 to the many past and yet to be the victims to this system 
 of superstition.—‘Frontier Guardian,’ February 9th, 1875. 
 
 Quiet persons at home cannot believe the extent to which 
 these horrid practices are carried. 
 
 It is indeed frightful to hear the stories which are related on 
 the most undoubted authority. 
 
 W ITCH GRAFT AMONGST THE KAFIRS. 
 
 It is astonishing to thinkers to find that statesmen in South 
 Africa and at home have not looked into this evil amongst the 
 Kafirs, and agitated for its suppression. Wonderful, truly won¬ 
 derful ! How many victims there are every year of this system 
 of lies and cruelty in native territories adjacent to and connected 
 with the colony, and yet little more than a passing thought 
 is given to it! How loudly Englishmen talk of the evils of 
 slavery, and what active and vigorous measures are employed 
 to destroy it! Yet here is a greater evil than slavery, for it 
 is manslaughter and murder, the result of a false and lying 
 Priestcraft, practised in countries where the chiefs are paid 
 out of the Government revenue. Take for example such chiefs 
 as Rili, Ngangelizwe, Ndamase, and Um'gikela, heads of tribes 
 living in the country, from the Kei to the Umzimkula, and 
 what do we find ? They uphold and sanction this s) stem of 
 manslaughter based on some fanciful accusation, or, as they 
 call it, divination. Take the following case as an example: 
 A reim is lost from a span and cannot be found ; recourse to a 
 
XIV.] 
 
 SO-AND-SO'S BABOON. 
 
 131 
 
 diviner is the next thing. He says, So-and-so’s baboon (familiar 
 spirit) took it, and So-and-so and another man have the reim 
 between them. It is concealed; the accused are caught and 
 tortured, and finally both are horribly and cruelly strangled 
 for this imaginary fault, their families scatter, d, and their 
 property plundered. Another man is accused of having a 
 baboon which takes away his neighbour’s calabashes. He is 
 caught and horribly tortured and thrashed, laid on the ground 
 and tied up to four pins in the ground, and fire applied to 
 his most tender parts. Another is a woman ; she is accused 
 by the diviner of having intercourse with the god of thunder, 
 “ Impundula.” In order to extort confession she is tortured, 
 stripped and thrashed until her torturers are tired. She is 
 next taken into her hut; a roaring lire is made and she is 
 held by strong men to the fire, until she is scorched into an 
 immense blister. Some of them die under the torture, and 
 others faint with exhaustion. These things are of daily occur¬ 
 ence amongst the native tribes, yet our Government does not 
 interfere The subject only requires some able advocate, who 
 should take the matter up and learn the particulars, after 
 which an enlightened Government could not fail to take notice 
 of such a cruel and fiendish system. 
 
 .The way in which persons accused of witchcraft are hilled 
 is sometimes by placing an ants’ nest on their bodies till they 
 are devoured; sometimes, again, a thong is tied round their 
 necks, stretched tight, and struck with sticks till the vibration 
 dislocates their necks. 
 
 While speaking of these frightful customs, I must say a 
 word about the marriage ceremonies of these people, of which I 
 insert an account from a local journal. 
 
 I went to see the marriage of the chief Faku, with the daughter 
 of another chief from the Klip river district. Faku is a 
 chief who did right good service during the rebellion, and he 
 
 k 2 
 
132 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 is liked well. I was glad of an opportunity of paying him 
 some mark of respect, went as au uninvited guest, and was 
 right hospitably received. Well, sir, before this I was always 
 under the impression that a Kafir marriage was a sort of 
 bargain and sale, hop the broomstick affair, so many cows 
 paid, and the woman handed over to the husband in the 
 presence of the official witness; but I was much surprised to 
 find it was quite a different affair, and one of much ceremony. 
 Iu civilised society the gentleman usually settles himself and 
 a dower on the lady, but here the dower is given to the 
 father, and he brings the lady in much Kafir state to the 
 husband. Proceedings open by a wild sort of dance, which 
 announces the approach of the bride; in the meantime she 
 and her bridesmaids were said to be washing and decorating 
 themselves at a stream near by. After a short time the 
 bride’s party advanced, and was received by the husband 
 and his people sitting down, a space being left of about 
 twenty paces between them. All guests were on the hus¬ 
 band’s right hand, he and they being surrounded by the 
 husband’s tribe—men, women, and children—in a sort of half 
 circle. The dances and songs open with the men on the 
 bride’s side, and after the dance the men deposit their dance 
 shields one on the other in the centre of the space, the 
 bride’s father’s shield, as chief, being placed on the top. The 
 bridesmaids’ dance and song then begins, the bride herself 
 being still kept in the background. When this is over the 
 bride suddenly appears in the centre of the bridesmaids, with 
 her face veiled, a knife in her right hand, and a small shield 
 in her left. The dance and song of bridesmaids begin again, 
 all grandly advancing to the shields, and then stop. The 
 husband calls to the bride to come to him, and she turns her 
 back to him and dances with the rest back again; then again 
 the men dance and sing. Several of the elders and wives of 
 the bride’s party run up iu front of the husband and chaff him, 
 
XIV.] 
 
 A KAFIR MARRIAGE. 
 
 133 
 
 tell him he is “ no go,” and not good enough for their girl. 
 The men’s dance then ceases, and the bridesmaids begin 
 again. This time the bride’s veil is lowered to the nose, and 
 her eyes seen, and she advances beyond the shields. Imluana, 
 on the bride’s side, sits down in a peculiar manner, indicating 
 that the husband must give her plenty of milk, and so the 
 dances go on till she comes up to the husband. He speaks to 
 her; she turns her back to him ; he asks her lovingly to 
 give him her hand; she does so; and as she does so she 
 looks over her shoulder at him. 
 
 “ She gave him one look, but that look was a piercer.” 
 
 More dances ensue, until at last she comes up unveiled. He 
 asks her if she will be his wife ; she says “ Yes.” She is then 
 asked by the official witness if she is willing to be his wife, 
 and to come and live with him, and she says “Yes.” Other 
 dances and ceremonies follow; but, as it was close to sundown, 
 I had to up saddle and leave. As far as I could see, there was 
 no constraint in the matter; on the contrary, from the look, 
 rather a liking of the bride for the bridegroom. Everything 
 was most orderly ; beer (ubatywala) there was for the guests, 
 but no drunkenness. The bride was one of the finest women 
 I have ever seen in South Africa, six feet high, well formed, 
 and very pretty. 
 
 I add an account of a case which came before one of our 
 magistrates: 
 
 Kafir Wife Selling. —In the magistrates’ court at Alice, 
 a couple of weeks ago, Quirana, a Fingo, was charged by 
 Dingana, another Fingo, with the abduction of his daughter 
 Noseki, aged about eighteen years, and keeping her a prisoner 
 in his hut for three days against her will. Dingana said that 
 Noseki was his daughter, that he had five months ago dis¬ 
 posed of her to the accused for twenty-seven sheep and three 
 
134 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap 
 
 oxen, but bad not formally banded her to him, notwithstand¬ 
 ing which defendant met the girl at a dance and took her to 
 his house, where he kept her under guard till her mother 
 found her. 
 
 Dingana admitted that he had sold the girl twice, first to 
 defendant and afterwards to another man, for seven head 
 of cattle; and that, having cancelled the first transaction, 
 his object was to make the defendant pay for keeping the 
 girl at his house for three days. Noseki stated that she 
 was first handed over to defendant, who, after paying twenty- 
 seven sheep on account to her father, met her at a dance and'' 
 took her to his home, where, in his absence, she was guarded 
 by the women of the kraal, until her mother found her and 
 took her away. She was then disposed of a second time to a 
 man named Inyaka, for seven head of cattle. 
 
 She preferred husband No. 2. Her father returned the sheep 
 to No. 1. The accused stated that the present proceedings 
 had been instituted by the complainant with a view of ex¬ 
 torting cattle. In the first place he had given sheep and 
 oxen for the girl, who came to his house as his wife willingly ; 
 afterwards her father got a better offer for her and sold her 
 to another man ; the girl had not been taken away by force, 
 neither had she been kept a prisoner as alleged. The magis¬ 
 trate remarked that this was another example of the immo¬ 
 rality attending the Ukulobola system. Here a father was 
 bartering his daughter for sheep and oxen to the highest 
 bidder, and after selling her to one man, hearing of another 
 willing to give more, he cancelled the first transaction and 
 handed the girl over to a second man. After failing to make 
 the first purchaser pay for the girl’s three days’ society, he 
 brought him into court on a criminal charge, which could 
 not be sustained for a moment. Case dismissed. 
 
 At Kafir marriages a very curious doll is used. It is 
 
XIV.] 
 
 CATS AND SNAKES. 
 
 135 
 
 made of a wooden cylinder about a foot long and four inches in 
 diameter, covered over with beads. Representations in coloured 
 beads are made of the eyes, nose, mouth, and hair, and little 
 arms and legs are attached. Some of these dolls are reputed to 
 bring good luck to the marriages where they are used, and 
 some bad. If a doll is fortunate it is worth many head of 
 cattle ; and Commandant Bowker, the Chief of the Police Force, 
 told me that they are prized so highly, that with all his influence 
 he could not obtain one, but had to content himself with a copy 
 made especially for him. 
 
 On the 31st of August we encamped at Gangelulu. Just 
 before reaching the plain we killed an enormous cobra at least 
 six feet long. I was cautioned not to go too near it in its death 
 agonies, as it frequently spits venom into the eyes of any one 
 near, which causes a temporary, if not permanent, blindness. 
 One of the officers of the 13th Regiment was struck thus even 
 at the distance of fifteen yards, and did not regain his sight 
 for a week. 
 
 The stories which are told regarding snakes in South Africa 
 are endless, many of them being as remarkable as those from 
 America. Some snakes, it is asserted, have the power of coil¬ 
 ing themselves into the shape of a spring, and, jumping from 
 the ground, can light even on a passing horseman; while 
 others, they say, putting their tails in their mouths, roll them¬ 
 selves along like a hoop, with the speed of a velocipede. Much 
 to my regret, none of these singularly gifted reptiles ever 
 presented themselves to me. Cats are said to be proof against 
 snake-bites, as the following will show:— 
 
 A green mamba was engaged in a fierce tussle with a big cat, 
 in which the cat had bitten out one of its eyes, and in re¬ 
 turn got a wound in its face that swelled up to an enormous 
 size, but beyond that he seemed none the worse for the 
 encounter, and in a few days was well again. 
 
13(5 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 There can be no doubt that the mamba is a snake of a savage 
 and violent nature. One of my staff officers, engaged in pur¬ 
 chasing horses, frequently passed the same spot, where a large 
 snake, dashing out of its hole, cast itself many times against 
 the carriage-wheel; but on one occasion, being prepared, he 
 shot it. 
 
 Kafirs are by no means delicate eaters. When they have 
 killed a snake they are sure to rip it up and extract a long, 
 green bag, which they swallow with great relish. 
 
 The subject of snake-bites is one of no small interest in 
 this country. 
 
 Liquid ammonia is, far excellence, the best antidote. It 
 must be administered immediately after the bite, both internally, 
 diluted with water, and externally, in its concentrated form. 
 The “ Eau de Luce ” and other nostrums sold for this purpose 
 have ammonia for their main ingredient. But it generally 
 happens in the case of a snake-bite that the remedy is not at 
 hand, and hours may elapse before it can be obtained. In this 
 case the following treatment will work well:—Tie a ligature 
 tightly above the bite, scarify the wound deeply with a knife, 
 and allow it to bleed freely. After having drawn an ounce or 
 so of blood, remove the ligature and ignite three times succes¬ 
 sively about two drams of gunpowder right on the wound. If 
 gunpowder be not at hand, an ordinary fusee will answer the 
 purpose; or, in default of this, the glowing end of a piece of 
 wood from the fire. Having done this, proceed to administer 
 as much brandy to the patient as he will take. Intoxicate him 
 as rapidly as possible, and, once intoxicated, he is safe. If, 
 however, through delay in treatment the poison has once got 
 into the circulation, no amount of brandy will either intoxicate 
 him or save his life. 
 
 ‘ The Natal Mercury ’ relates an instance of a lady who lately 
 awoke about midnight to find herself in the company of a large 
 specimen of one of the most deadly of African snakes, the 
 
XIV.] 
 
 A SNAKE IN THE BED. 
 
 137 
 
 “ ringhals,” a kind of cobra. The lady was disturbed by feel¬ 
 ing something moving in the bed, and on putting her band 
 down discovered to her horror the nature of her midnight 
 visitor. Under such circumstances a terrified scream was ex¬ 
 cusable : her husband was awakened, a light procured, and 
 search made for the reptile, which fortunately remained between 
 the mattress and the sheet, where it was speedily despatched 
 with a few blows from a stout stick. The “ ringhals ” is a 
 bold fighter, and will stand erect and make rapid darts at 
 an enemy, besides which, it is credited, in common with one 
 or two species of African snakes, with the power of spitting a 
 venomous saliva with considerable accuracy of aim. 
 
 The country of the Pondomisi, under the chief Umdichwa, 
 is one of the protected States, and is gradually improving. 
 We were now in a land inhabited by races as wild as any that 
 are to be found on the continent of South Africa, and altogether 
 unconscious of the instruction which so clearly marks the 
 division between the savage and the civilised man, for the 
 Kafir has no literature, no alphabet, and no knowledge of the 
 art of writing. 
 
 Umdichwa was too ill to leave his kraal, but he sent us 
 respectful messages. Previous to his receiving our protection 
 he led a sad life. He truly described it as that of a dog. 
 Since youth, he said, he had never known a quiet day or night. 
 He was aroused at the barking of a dog, and thought his kraal 
 was attacked by the Pondos—which, indeed, not unfrequently 
 happened—his wives, cattle, and children being carried off and 
 his young men killed. Now, however, he slept tranquilly, and 
 was contented. 
 
 We were shown a mountain in which an old queen resided 
 not long ago, who was the terror of her enemies. When 
 attacked, she would place herself stark naked at the head of 
 her warriors, and rushing wildly into the midst of the battle, 
 scatter the Pondos to the winds, as much by her appearance 
 
138 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XIY. 
 
 and imprecations as by her blows, her husband the chief 
 looking on with admiration. 
 
 We breakfasted at the Incolaha river, a very pretty spot, 
 immediately opposite to a waterfall of no great size, but 
 pleasing in appearance. Here we found a large quantity of 
 wild asparagus, which was excellent. 
 
 While at breakfast we saw some families fording the stream, 
 the mothers carrying their children, as usual, on their backs, 
 which they seem to have no difficulty in doing for hours 
 together, even while working all the time. They carry them 
 in the same position that we have lately adopted for the 
 knapsack of our infantry—very low down on the back. 
 
 The women pay but little attention to the dressing of their 
 hair, or, indeed, to their appearance generally; but it is 
 different with the men, who are very dandified, and have a 
 great idea of enhancing their personal attractions. 
 
 Their heads are profusely ruhbed with grease, wax, and 
 sand, and the hair is then worked up into a sort of circular coil 
 on the top of the head, something in the fashion of the pad 
 used by a basket-carrier. In fact, it is difficult to believe that 
 it is not a coil of gutta-percha. This is neither opened out, 
 washed, nor dressed, except with more grease, for years, and 
 must necessarily be very filthy. In this coil they store small 
 articles, such as snuff or small coins. The lobes of the ears 
 are cut into long slits, which are rendered exceedingly useful 
 as save-alls, as some article of constant need, such as hair- 
 skewer or a snuff-spoon is stuck through this slit on either side. 
 
( 139 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 umtS&onthlo. 
 
 The mission station at Shawbury is beautifully situated a short 
 distance from tbe banks of the river Ivitsa. It contains a 
 large area of ground well laid out, and is apparently very 
 prosperous. On the following morning we ascended to the 
 top of a neighbouring mountain, called Mount Cunynghaine, 
 and from this eminence we had a tine view of the celebrated 
 falls on the river. Though hardly so grand as in the rainy 
 season, they were most beautiful. The water, precipitating itself 
 over a ledge of rock by a directly perpendicular fall 375 feet 
 high and a quarter of a mile wide, whirling down into the 
 abyss beneath, is carried off in a serpentine form through a 
 deep channel between great red, scarped rocks. It is a noble 
 sight, and one of the largest and highest falls in the world. At 
 Shawbury the chief Umdichwa presented me with an ox which 
 we had some difficulty in killing, for it ran away, after receiving 
 one bullet, and required a long chase before it could be re¬ 
 captured. 
 
 The hill that we ascended had not long since formed the 
 camping-ground of tire Pondos on the occasion of an attack. 
 They had lighted a fire on a large rock. The heat made the 
 rock split with a report like a cannon, which so alarmed them 
 that they ran away in a body. On the opposite bank we met 
 the chief of the second branch of the Pondomisi tribe, Um- 
 thonthlo. He is considered the most daring warrior of the 
 Trauskei, and although he commands a comparatively small 
 
140 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 tribe, he has always been a terror to his neighbours. Whether 
 in attack or defence, lie is said to have no equal. He is 
 surnamed the “ Euphorbia,” in consequence of a circumstance 
 which happened to him when he was younger. Two of his 
 wives whom he was desirous of putting to death were brought 
 to his kraal. His father “ Com trees ” would not allow him to 
 do so; and to prevent it they tied him to the tree, the name of 
 which, Euphorbia, he ever after bore. Others state that he 
 was so named from his straight and manly bearing, which I 
 should think the more likely story. The chief is a tall, strong 
 man, with determination and cunning marked on his counte¬ 
 nance. During his last war he had fought a battle with the 
 Pondos upon the very spot upon which we met him. This is 
 the story of it. 
 
 The Pondos, 4000 strong, came into his country, plunder¬ 
 ing as they went. Umthonthlo, cunningly retiring, and thus 
 leading them on until they had got within a narrow strip of 
 land with bush on either side, concealed himself in the retreat. 
 No sooner had the victorious army passed than, rushing from 
 the thicket in their rear, he attacked them with assegai 
 and musket, routed their army, and put large numbers to 
 death. 
 
 Umthonthlo is always accompanied by six followers, excel¬ 
 lent shots, and armed with Winchester rifles, each loaded with 
 their charges. 
 
 He not unfrequently uses these weapons against his own 
 subjects when they displease him. A few months ago he was 
 informed that a young man of his tribe had been presenting 
 snuff to one of his wives. He summoned the lady, accused her 
 of accepting this pinch of snuff, and added that unless she 
 instantly gave up the name of the man he would put her to 
 death. His body-guard stood with loaded rifles, ready to put 
 the sentence in execution. Thus frightened, she gave up the 
 name of the man who had paid her this trifling attention. 
 
XV.] 
 
 A MONDAY GUN. 
 
 141 
 
 Umthontlilo summoned him to his presence, and demanded 
 his reason for presenting snuff to his wife. The excuse not 
 being satisfactory, he called for a Winchester, and, aiming at 
 the chest of the young man, shot him. His sister upbraiding 
 him for his rashness, he gave this remarkable answer, “ Do not 
 blame me, but rather the man that told me of it; he is the 
 person in fault.” This circumstance happened about the time 
 he accepted our protectorate. He was therefore informed that 
 he was now the Queen’s subject, and that on the repetition of 
 such an act he would not only lose his chieftainship but be 
 tried for his life, which not a little astonished him. 
 
 These chiefs have an extraordinary idea of their power and 
 dignity. Umthonthlo once requested Mr. Davis to make him 
 a present of 20 pair of oxen and 100 blankets, as he said that 
 his sister, the wife of Umgikela, was returning home from a 
 visit she had paid him, and he was desirous that she should 
 depart with fitting honour. He did not think he should be in 
 a position to return these things, but he was willing to confer 
 upon the missionary the honour of receiving them. 
 
 Umthonthlo is a sharp fellow. A trader thought to deceive 
 him in some guns, and, showing him two, asked him his opinion 
 on them. “ Oh,” said he, “ this one is a Friday gun, that one is 
 a Monday one.” When asked to explain, he said, “ Do I not 
 know that all your artisans work well from Tuesday to Friday, 
 and then all get drunk, and their Monday’s work is worth 
 nothiug at all? Never show me a Monday gun again.” 
 
 Nothing is more tiresome than talking to these native 
 chiefs. They are utterly ignorant of any subject except cattle 
 and extension of territory, which monopolises their whole con¬ 
 versation. Moreover, they think it dignified to remain silent 
 for hours, which occasions some difficulty at a meeting. Some 
 well-mounted and well-armed men attended Umthonthlo. 
 They were dressed in soldiers’ coats of different colours. Each 
 carried on his head a monkey-skin cap, which increased the 
 
142 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 ferocity of their appearance. He was at this time in disgrace, 
 on account of his having recently executed, without trial, a 
 young woman who had been accused of witchcraft. She 
 stated that another female had bewitched her, and that a 
 spirit had appeared to her in the shape of an eagle, entering 
 into her body, and transforming itself into a child. 
 
 A medicine doctor was sent for, who soon “ smelt out ” the 
 whole affair, and recommended that the woman should be put 
 to death, which was instantly carried into effect. These 
 extraordinary delusions are fully equalled in India. At Cash- 
 mere, in the Himalaya Mountains, the soul of the Maharaja 
 Runjeet Singh was firmly believed by his son to have entered 
 into a fish, and, while I was there, it was death to any native 
 of Cashmere to catch a single fish. 
 
 On one occasion Lord Canning told me that a bitter com¬ 
 plaint had been made in consequence of some officers who had 
 been fishing, whereby the soul of the Maharaja’s father ran 
 a good chance of being caught and eaten by an unbeliever. 
 
 We rode forward with Umthonthlo and some of his principal 
 chiefs. One, an intelligent-looking man, carried the emblem of 
 authority, the tiger’s tail; this man was named “Many things.” 
 He carried this badge of distinction until we reached the con¬ 
 fines of the country. 
 
 We now reached the country of the Amabacas. As there 
 was a dispute regarding this portion of the country, it was 
 deemed more prudent that Umthonthlo should return, espe¬ 
 cially as we knew that Makaula, the chief of the Bacas, was 
 waiting on the other side of the hill to receive me. Although 
 a fight between these two might have been interesting and 
 instructive, I had no desire to be the cause of it. 
 
 We met Makaula on the mountains on the 3rd of September. 
 He is a stout silent man, well dressed in dark blue. His escort 
 was well armed and on good horses, and his cavalcade was the 
 best turned out that we had yet seen in Kafir land. 
 
XV.] 
 
 TIIE ASSEGAI. 
 
 143 
 
 Salutes in my honour were continually fired by the men we 
 met. An immense train of mounted men joined the procession 
 into Tshungwana. 
 
 Here a stately ox was presented in due form, and we were 
 kindly received in the mission house. Immediately outside 
 were some hundreds of natives in their war dress. I remained 
 a short time to see them perform their dance by torchlight. 
 Alternately advancing and retiring, brandishing their assegais 
 and fighting in attack and defence with a supposed enemy, they 
 produced a very imposing effect, especially as it was dark, and 
 the torches flashed across their dark faces. The groans, stamps 
 and howls of the warriors were quite enough to terrify any one. 
 These men were dressed in feathers, with the tails of wild 
 animals round their bodies, both behind and before; with 
 amulets made of massive rings from the tusks of the elephant, 
 and many a charm (or fetish) strung round them, together with 
 garters and anklets of innumerable brass rings. Each had an 
 oval shield and bundle of assegais. The assegai in the hands 
 of the Kafir is what the hunting knife is to the Shekaai; there 
 is no use to which it is not adapted, both as an offensive and 
 defensive weapon, and in everyday use. 
 
 No Kaffir stirs abroad without a small bundle of these 
 lances. With the assegai he eats, he fights, and does many 
 many useful things, and it is used as a surgical instrument. 
 Carefully sharpening it, he uses it to bleed the human patient, 
 and with it he inoculates his cow’s tail. In the chase it is his 
 spear, a deadly weapon in his hand, and a ready instrument for 
 skinning his game. 
 
 We passed some good kraals of the Bacas, on our way to 
 the Umsimbues river. The wicker-work roof is made of wattles, 
 which are light and straight, and are bent over at regular 
 distances. The kraals are well plastered an 1 neatly thatched. 
 The door is made rather small, the flooring hard and smooth, 
 and at the upper end there is a raised lodge running right 
 
144 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA, [Chap. XY. 
 
 across, which serves as a cupboard where all utensils are placed. 
 The firewood is neatly packed inside, between two grass copes 
 which are fastened against the wall. The furniture is scant, but 
 of native manufacture. Large clay pots, holding fifteen or 
 twenty gallons of beer, stand inside. 
 
 It is singular enough that there are no regular cemeteries 
 attached to any of the villages in this country. In no other 
 nation that I have met with have I observed this want. The 
 chiefs are buried within their own cattle kraal, as being the 
 place of highest honour. Other persons are simply carried to 
 the Veldt, and interred in the most convenient spot. Frequently 
 the people do not take the trouble to wait until the man is 
 dead, but when they see any one sick or old he is requested to 
 walk into the bush. Here a hole is prepared sufficiently deep 
 to receive a man in a sitting posture, and he is made to walk 
 into it with his favourite walking-stick, but never with his 
 money or anything that is valuable, after which the hole is 
 filled up over him. He is thus spared future suffering, and his 
 friends no longer have to attend to his wants. 
 
 Some of the stores which were offered to the Kafirs in this 
 country were very poor. For blankets which could be pur¬ 
 chased for 2s. in England—made of the flimsiest shoddy—10s. 
 and 12s. were demanded. The paper blankets which have been 
 lately invented will no doubt find a market here. 
 
I 145 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XYI. 
 
 JOJO—GRIQUALAND EAST. 
 
 We now reached the country of the Amatibi. 
 
 On nearing the Tngolo river, the chief Jojo met us, riding 
 with many warriors, driving before them a very fine ox in 
 capital condition, which he begged leave to present with the 
 usual formalities. The natives who drove this beast into our 
 presence were tall and well-formed, and the symmetry of their 
 swarthy limbs was openly displayed. Their heads were singu¬ 
 larly dressed, the natural woolly hair being so arranged as to 
 have the appearance of a stout woollen cap, which looked like 
 a Turkish cap and tassel, as some of them had tied the centre 
 lock with a scarlet tuft. I was much pleased at Jojo’s pre¬ 
 senting the ox, as he is by no means a wealthy chief. It was a 
 great contrast to Gangaleswe’s niggardliness. Cattle are the 
 greatest treasure of the native, being regarded as even more 
 precious than women. 
 
 I may give an anecdote to illustrate the consideration in 
 which they hold cattle. 
 
 A German presented Panda, the father of Cetewayo, with 
 a watch. “ What is the use of it ? ” said he ; “ To tell where 
 
 the sun is ? We can see it; when cloudy we remain in our huts, 
 at night we sleep. Does it give milk?” “No.” “ Does it give 
 calves?” “No.” “Then take your watch away.” 
 
 Poor Jojo is in difficulties, his country has been constantly 
 the scene of attacks from the chief Umquikela, who considers 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Jojo a rebel. The courage of this lesser chief has enabled him 
 so far to be able to ward off the blows, and lie declares that 
 nothing shall now make him submit. He claims rights of 
 independence, but by some interpretations of our treaty these 
 seem to he doubtful. 
 
 Jojo’s account of his own life was very interesting. Driven 
 when a child from his home by the inroads of the famous 
 Chaka (the Attila of the Zulus), he was carried to the 
 mountains by the Amabacas and brought up by them. After 
 the death of Chaka, he returned to his country, which was 
 claimed by Umquikela, and war for years has been the result. 
 Jojo now supplicates to be placed under our protection; an 
 honourable petition, and creditable to her Majesty’s Govern¬ 
 ment, as demonstrating how much our rule is appreciated. 
 
 I encamped that evening by the river. The whole night¬ 
 long the followers of Jojo were stuffing themselves with portions 
 of the fat ox. Looking out of my tent, by the light of the 
 moon I saw in all directions groups tearing and cutting off junks 
 of meat, which they swallowed with a grunt and a choke most 
 alarming to hear. In the morning little or nothing of the ox 
 remained. All that I saw left was in the arms of an old man 
 who was fondly caressing the four legs, one protruding from 
 under each arm giving him the appearance of a quadruped 
 rather than a biped. He had evidently employed the night in 
 mumbling the shank bone and intended to feast upon the feet 
 at his leisure. 
 
 The quantity of meat which a Kafir can devour is miracu¬ 
 lous. Pound after pound vanishes before him, nor does he 
 appear torpid or less active in consequence. It is by no means 
 uncommon for a couple of men to finish a small sheep in twenty- 
 four hours. They are not at all particular what part of the 
 animal they eat. Pieces which we should consider revolting 
 meet from them the most ready appreciation, and apparently 
 every portion is as digestible as it is palatable. I was told that a 
 
XVI.] 
 
 1NVULNEBA BLE S TOMA CHS. 
 
 147 
 
 bullock that had been left by a transport rider was bitten in 
 the tongue by an adder, while grazing. The ox, feeling the 
 stinging pain, ejected the snake from its mouth, and an hour 
 afterwards it was dead. It was skinned by natives and the 
 meat eaten by them. Strange to say, none of the Kafirs 
 suffered any ill effects. They are possessed of stomachs of 
 extraordinary capacity, and apparently invulnerable. 
 
 The Kafirs, although ready to eat enormous quantities of 
 meat when they can procure it, are frequently compelled to 
 suffer from famine. In this extremity they tie leather rims 
 round their stomachs They call this the girdle of famine, and 
 they fill up the vacuum by drinking water. 
 
 On the 6th of September we ascended the Ingali heights, 
 obtaining two span of oxen to help up our mules on to the 
 plateau. On our way up we saw a few roebuck, the only game 
 which we had met with in the Transkei. One of our party 
 breasted the tremendous mountain in the hopes of catching 
 some. We watched his approach upon the deer, but when 
 within a hundred yards of them, and while he was still hidden 
 from their sight, something alarmed them, and they made off, 
 having evidently “ smelt the smell of an Englishman.” 
 
 When we arrived at East Griqualand many Griqua farmers 
 joined us and proffered their assistance. These men are half- 
 castes between the Dutch and Kafirs. They were well mounted, 
 and most of the horses were caparisoned with the shubragul, 
 which, from a change of equipment, had been discarded by our 
 cavalry. These were nearly new, and gave them a very dressy 
 appearance. 
 
 Almost every cavalry regiment in our army was represented, 
 Lancers, Carabineers, &c. Very few of the men spoke 
 English, but one who did described many of their primitive 
 customs, one of which is that their wives never sit down to 
 table with their husbands, the former first serving the master, 
 and then dining by themselves. 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTIT AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Passing over the ground which divides the lower country 
 from the higher range, a fine view broke upon us in the 
 foreground. Mount Currie stood well out of the plain with 
 the lower ranges of the Drakensberg in the extreme back¬ 
 ground, while endless grassy slopes filled up the foreground of 
 the picture. 
 
 The town of Kokstadt lay immediately below us, in a well- 
 selected position; and although it did not show great signs of 
 activity, its progress was sufficient to demonstrate that it would 
 one day be a city. As we reached this, which is the capital of 
 Griqualand East, Adam Kok, the Kaptain, met us, attended by 
 a numerous escort. He received me most politely, regretting 
 that through some error in the information he had received, we 
 had arrived at least one day before he had expected us, 
 otherwise a much more numerous body of his subjects would 
 have been there to meet me. Finally, forming a procession, 
 we crossed the Umzinthara river and entered his town. 
 
 In Kokstadt we were met by the head of the Scotch Mission 
 Society, who invited us to his house, requesting us to be his 
 guests during our stay. The Kev. Mr. Dower was a true type 
 of a missionary ; lie can not only preach by precept, but by 
 example; he gives both balance to the mind, and physic to 
 the body. He inculcates industry, and at the same time 
 practises it; and the comfortable dwelling in which he resides 
 is an example of the result. He built, painted, glazed, and 
 papered almost the whole house with his own hands. In my 
 opinion a missionary who is able and willing to set such an 
 example is worth a dozen of those who inculcate these practical 
 things without energy or knowledge to put them into execution. 
 A cheery room with a spotlessly clean bed was given me, 
 looking into a garden, where crowds of avadavats chirped 
 merrily among the flowers. 
 
 The cannon began to boom its salute while we were enjoying 
 a hasty meal. 
 
XVI.] 
 
 THE EXODUS INTO NO-MAN’S-LAND. 
 
 149 
 
 Griqualand East, formerly callel No-man’s-land, was some 
 years since a sort of neutral territory between the Zulus who 
 inhabited Natal, the Pondos, the Pondomise, and the other 
 tribes who lived in Kaffraria proper. 
 
 After Cliaka, the great warrior who overcame Kaffraria, had 
 been driven back, the country remained uninhabited; and 
 indeed it was still in the state long after the Dutch had 
 settled in Natal, and after we had assumed its government, 
 taking it from the hands of the emigrant farmers. 
 
 At the time the Dutch Boers left the Cape Colony, 
 when they emigrated into the Free State, these “ G-rikas,” or 
 “ Bastards,” held a large tract of country to the south-west 
 of Bloemfontein, called Griqualand West. They were an 
 industrious people, and far more advanced in civilisation than 
 any other native tribe. They had large flocks of cattle and 
 sheep and were wealthy, with good furniture and houses. 
 
 This excited the desire of the Boers to possess these good 
 things and the result was constant vexation to the poor 
 Griquas. Under these circumstances they determined to 
 “ trek ” and relinquish their country, provided they could place 
 themselves in a secure position in a new land. They mentioned 
 their wishes to the Governor of the Cape Colony, and met from 
 him a ready response in the offer of No-man’s-land. 
 
 Adam Kok, who had been elected their chief, was invited 
 to look at the country. He did so, and thinking that it would 
 suit the purposes of his tribe, he determined to move them into 
 it at once. 
 
 The exodus commenced. Many hundreds of families and 
 waggons, cattle, sheep, and household goods, formed the 
 procession, and they commenced their journey towards the 
 Promised Land. Marching east, they first crossed the Caledon 
 river; next the Orange river, at a drift now known as Kok’s 
 drift; thence passing through the country now called Wode- 
 house, they arrived at the lower range of the Drakensberg. 
 
150 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Here they crossed the mountains at what was subsequently 
 named Kok’s Pass, and, moving onwards, took up their “ lager ” 
 at the southern foot of a fine mountain, called Mount Currie, 
 in honour of Sir W. Currie, a very distinguished veteran, who 
 commanded the Frontier Police. 
 
 Great dangers and difficulties were encountered in their pro¬ 
 gress ; an immense lot of cattle died, but the exodus was finally 
 accomplished. Two 12-pounder brass guns accompanied them, 
 the very name of which proved a terror to the natives. But 
 for them the Griquas might have encountered much greater 
 difficulties and interruptions. 
 
 For years the Griquas seem to have had much trouble in 
 holding their own in their new country. The Pondos attacked 
 them from the south, the Amabacas from the south-west, the 
 Basutos from the north; and the Government of Natal, being 
 anxious to absorb a slice of their country south-east, were not 
 over friendly to them. Nothing caused them more uneasiness 
 than when a Lieutenant-Governor of Natal crossed Griqualand 
 without even presenting his compliments to its ruler. Had 
 they not met with protection from the Governor of the Cape 
 Colony they could scarcely have continued in existence. Still 
 they hold their own, and within the last two years they have 
 shared in the general prosperity of the colony caused by the 
 Diamond Fields. Leaving their “ lager ” at the foot of Mount 
 Currie, they are now taking up their abode at the new capital, 
 Kokstadt. 
 
 Poor Adam Hole left his affairs in Griqualand West in the 
 hands of an intelligent Englishman, whose intelligence was 
 so energetic as completely to have exhausted all Adam’s 
 resources in that country, property to an immense amount 
 having, it is said, been absorbed, and no explanation given. 
 
 No-man’s-land, now called Griqualand East, possesses a fine 
 climate, the land being well watered, both for sheep and cattle. 
 It is singular, therefore, that the cows are so badly managed 
 
XVI.] 
 
 THE KAPTAIN'S FIELD PIECES. 
 
 151 
 
 that no butter is to be obtained except that which is brought 
 either from Natal or from home, and no milk except preserved 
 milk in tins. 
 
 The upper portion of the country is excellent for wheat. It 
 contains on its eastern borders fine forests of yellow wood, 
 stink wood (the African mahogany), and other trees. On its 
 south-eastern borders there is good land for “mealies” (Indian 
 corn). The water-power in the rivers might be turned to 
 account, as many are never dry, and from the peculiar position 
 of the hills and gorges, they could readily be dammed up to 
 serve as reservoirs. Nothing of this has yet been attended to. 
 A large number of horses are bred, small, but strong, hardy 
 animals. The configuration of the country is such that it is 
 easily defensible on all sides. 
 
 In the afternoon we attended the native service, carried 
 on in the Dutch language. It was impossible for me to follow 
 it; in fact, the discovery that the sermon related to the 
 Prodigal Son formed the limit of my knowledge of what was 
 going on. The congregation appeared attentive, and the 
 clergyman in earnest. 
 
 The following morning we called upon the Ivaptain (as 
 Adam Kok is called). He showed us his brass field-pieces, 
 of which he was justly very proud. They had been made in 
 England, and were ornamented with a cock rampant (in allusion 
 to his name), and mounted on high carriages. These two guns 
 were delivered to him, with a certain amount of ammunition, 
 for 30007. The Kaptain was entitled to set some value upon 
 what had been so costly a bargain to him. 
 
 Many new public buildings, churches, schools, and houses, 
 are in course of erection. 
 
 Sanitary arrangements are little understood or appreciated, 
 and nothing can induce the people to adopt a drainage system 
 in their houses. Their fathers had none, and why should they ? 
 Many new stores have been put up. They are of large 
 
152 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 dimensions, and are built of woo l, covered with corrugated iron 
 roofs. The profit from these speculations is considerable. 
 
 No doubt the charges for English goods are high. To 
 obtain a pair of boots they say that it is requisite to sacrifice 
 a sheep for each foot. 
 
 A large number of guns and Enfield rifles are in the 
 market, which sell among the Pondos at the rate of a bullock 
 per barrel. 
 
 It is customary for all farmers who can afford it to erect 
 a shed in the town to contain their waggons and families when 
 they come in for the purpose of attending divine service and 
 making their purchases, as they remain on each occasion for 
 several days. 
 
 The financial budget of this little State is said not to exceed 
 that of a moderate fortune. The entire revenue from taxation 
 is estimated at 5000Z. per annum, with an annual expenditure 
 amounting to about the same sum. 
 
 There is, however, no public audit of accounts, all this 
 being arranged between the “ Kap ” and his Secretary. This 
 state of matters appears to have created great uneasiness, 
 which, if continued, may cause serious difficulties in the Lili- 
 putian kingdom. 
 
 We were presented with some postage stamps, which would 
 be rare in any collection. 
 
 No one could be kinder in his small way than the old 
 Kaptain. Though the ruler of bis own people, with powers of 
 taxation and of life and death, which he has enjoyed for many 
 years, he is certainly a humble and modest potentate. 
 
 The cares of state weigh heavily upon Adam Ivok, 
 although he insists on the performance of them, and the 
 junior members of his family are said to cause him annoyance 
 from their irregularities. If allowed to exercise his own 
 judgment, I have no doubt he would prefer to retire upon a 
 salary paid with British regularity rather than live this 
 
XVI.] 
 
 A BRITISH ANNEXATION. 
 
 153 
 
 uncertain and precarious life, surrounded by the troubles which 
 have pursued him in his chequered career from boyhood. 
 
 Not very long after my visit, it was decided that this was 
 the time to re-annex the country and a Commission was 
 appointed to take it over. Adam Kok could not relinquish it 
 without some show of dissatisfaction. Nevertheless, on the 
 day appointed he paraded 500 mounted men and 200 armed 
 footgangers ; after which there was a meeting of the people 
 on the Market Square in Kokstad, where opinions were 
 expressed on the acts of the Government, and the people’s 
 forebodings of the future expressed. Kaptain Adam Kok, 
 who was the first speaker, after thanking the Commission for 
 their attendance, and recapitulating briefly the circumstances 
 of the Griqua trek, and also of his meeting with Mr. Oipeu in 
 June 1874, and in October with Sir Henry Barkly, complained 
 of the hasty and arbitrary manner in which Government were 
 assuming authority in his country. He denied that he had 
 ever called them in to take authority, saying that from June, 
 when he asked Mr. Orpen to define his position, until Sir Henry 
 Barkly came and annexed the land, no word from Government 
 had ever reached him. Government could not take exception 
 to his people having formed an idea they were independent by 
 the way in which they had been left to their own resources. 
 They, the Griquas, on leaving Philippopolis, knew that they 
 were going to a British country, and expected, as stated in Sir 
 George Grey’s condition, that they would have a Eesident, who, 
 if he had been with them, would have been of great assistance 
 in checking plundering by Basutos, and in settling boundary 
 questions with their neighbours. They had, on the contrary, 
 not had the slightest assistance in advice or money from 
 the British Government. They bad their own cannon, 
 fire-arms, and ammunition, bought with their own money; 
 and after being left for thirteen years entirely to their own 
 resources, without any preliminary notice the Government 
 
154 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFIUCA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 stepped coolly in and took possession of them and their 
 property. This property Adam Kok considered ought to be 
 paid for. 
 
 When the Government laid out the Kat River Settlement 
 of Hottentots, they gave the settlers seed-corn, ploughs, and 
 various other things to help them. But what had they done 
 for his people ? They came to this land naked. His people, 
 and he, and his father, and his grandfather, had always been 
 faithful allies to the British, and he considered he ought to be 
 looked upon now as an ally rather than a subject, and not 
 taken over without ceremony, as he had been. He had been 
 left to govern his people with their own assistance only, 
 the whole of his life; perhaps, in other people’s opinion, 
 in a stupid manner; but it had always been his aim to do 
 justice to all, white, brown, or black; and in this he had 
 worked to the utmost of his judgment. His acts, therefore, 
 during the period until October 16th, 1874, must be looked 
 upon as legal and confirmed by the British Government. If 
 they persisted in annexing him and his people, he insisted upon 
 the fulfilment of the condition to the letter as given by Mr. 
 Brownlee to his messengers, and he would then be satisfied, 
 otherwise not. At the same time, he would suggest that his 
 people, not being so far advanced in civilisation as the colony, 
 should now be governed in accordance with their own customs 
 and habits until further advanced. He hoped he had said 
 nothing to affront the Commission, whom he personally 
 respected; but the Government must understand that his 
 mind was fully made up on the question of subverting his 
 past acts of government. 
 
 Adam Kok was pensioned off with 1000?. a year. He has 
 since been killed in a carriage accident. 
 
 I much regretted that before leaving Adam Kok’s country 
 I could not visit the range of the Drakensberg, particularly the 
 pass by which he had entered, so as to have made myself 
 
XVI.] 
 
 THE WAY TO GROW THIN. 
 
 155 
 
 acquainted with the Basuto chiefs now settled there, especially 
 with Nehemiah. 
 
 At the revolt of Langalebalele he was taunted with not 
 assisting him, but he answered, “ if you had lived for years the 
 life of a dog, pursued at every turn by English bloodhounds, 
 and finally run into, you would not recommend me to place 
 myself in such an unhappy position for the sport of such a 
 wretch as Langalebalele.” A superior Basuto chief reproached 
 Nehemiah with being thin, upon which he replied, “I have 
 worried Major Bele, the magistrate; now do you go and do the 
 same, and see if he does not make you grow thin also.” 
 
 At Stafford I was met by the hospitable owner of the 
 location, who invited me to an excellent dinner, and put us up 
 very comfortably. Bound this store were numerous Kafirs, 
 occasionally entering to make purchases. I was • particularly 
 struck with one fellow who had just received his month’s wages, 
 amounting to 8s. or 10s., and who was scraping out the remains 
 of a 4s. Gd. pot of jam which he had purchased that morning, 
 with his dirty fingers, and sucking them. This was the 
 happy result of more than fourteen days’ labour. 
 
 We were here shown some excellent sugar and coffee, grown 
 by natives; so that with a good government these men are 
 capable of improvement, but under such rulers as the chiefs, 
 and with such a system as witchcraft, it is impossible for them 
 to thrive. 
 
 We were very kindly received at Mr. Button’s Church of 
 England Mission Station. The property had lately been pur¬ 
 chased by the society. It consists of 4000 acres of land, a 
 large amount of which is well watered and productive. There 
 is a tolerable dwelling-house upon it, with a well - stocked 
 garden, full of peach and other trees. For the whole of this 
 property they had paid 2507., which I think no one can con¬ 
 sider excessive. Mr. Button was taking energetic steps to 
 improve the property, well knowing that in doing so, he was 
 
156 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XVI. 
 
 doing much for the poor barbarous people surrounding it. He 
 appeared a sensible man, appealing to the people by precept 
 and example, and endeavouring to civilise them rather by useful 
 acts than by thrusting “ learning ” down their throats. Here 
 I was introduced to Mr. Hully, an old gentleman not far from 
 78 years of age, who had been present immediately after the 
 great massacre which Dingaan (the Zulu King, Cetewayo’s 
 uncle) perpetrated on the Natal settlers. He was friendly 
 with Dingaan, who said, “Well, Hully, I have destroyed the 
 Dutch, what do you think of it?” Hully answered, “You have 
 finished the beginning, but what of the end ? ” Dingaan lost 
 Natal, and was murdered by his brother (Panda, Cetewayo’s 
 father). 
 
 Most of the natives in this part of the country are originally 
 from Zulu land, they are said to be more industrious than the 
 Pondos or Pondomisi. They are obtaining a considerable 
 quantity of arms, some of which they retain, bartering others. 
 They now begin to understand the relative value of a good and 
 bad article ; formerly they accepted any gun offered to them, 
 but lately they are more difficult to please. 
 
( 107 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 PIETERMARITZBERG. 
 
 I now entered the colony of Natal, having passed through 
 these native states with less difficulty and fewer adventures than 
 in many countries in which I have travelled in Europe. The 
 predictions of those in Cape Town who looked upon my expe¬ 
 dition as foolhardy were happily not verified. I fully believe 
 that this country is less advanced than any south of the 
 Zambesi river, and even the natives opposite the coast of 
 Zanzibar, I am given to understand, are more civilised than 
 those in the Transkei, with the exception of the Fingoes. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 10th of September we were descend¬ 
 ing the slopes of the Umcoinas river. The vegetation on its 
 rugged banks resembled that of the Fish river bush, and would 
 present very serious difficulties to an invading army. The 
 banks of tkeUmcomas are said to be more infested with deadly 
 snakes than any other part of Natal. It is here that the 
 poisonous mamba assumes great proportions and most vicious 
 propensities. There are probably few countries in the world 
 which possess a more dangerous reptile. Near the Ineopo 
 river we passed over Puff-adder hill, and near Umcoinas 
 Satan’s mountains, both noted haunts of these dangerous 
 creatures. 
 
 On the following morning we reached the pretty town of 
 Richmond, the first spot surrounded with European civilisation 
 we had met with since leaving King William’s Town. 
 
158 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 It possesses a handsome Ladies’ College in a tolerable state 
 of prosperity, though much anxiety was felt during last year’s 
 rebellion in the mountain, as it was reported (though probably 
 without truth) that the Kafirs in the neighbouring kraals had 
 made their selection of future wives amongst its young and 
 handsome inmates, after the bright days of their successful 
 rebellion should shine propitiously on them. 
 
 The pretty hedgerows and well-divided fields had a most 
 pleasing appearance, and Mr. Lloyd’s beautiful gardens and 
 orange-trees profuse in bearing were very refreshing to the eye 
 after the arid plains we had left. 
 
 Pietermaritzberg is the capital of Natal. It is a nice- 
 looking town, well situated on the river. Its name is a con¬ 
 junction of those of its two founders, Peter and Maritz. The 
 streets are wide, a fair amount of trade goes on, and there are 
 large sales of forage in the market-square, where the House 
 of Assembly and other public buildings are situated. The 
 morning after our arrival I took the opportunity of attending 
 the Cathedral Church of Bishop Colenso. I much regretted 
 not being able to meet the Bishop. He was absent, in England, 
 endeavouring to persuade the British people that Langalebalele 
 and his tribe are not perfidious natives, but mild, inoffensive, 
 hard-working, laborious, and much-injured individuals. The 
 sermon I heard was very interesting, but mainly directed to 
 induce persons not to believe implicitly all that was handed 
 down in the Old Testament, but to take a liberal view, and 
 consider these histories in a typical sense. 
 
 No one in South Africa has worked more energetically 
 than Bishop Colenso for the benefit of the black race, but 
 it seems doubtful how far he has met with success. He has 
 often suffered disappointment. In one instance, a young man 
 whom the Bishop induced to put away his wives, and adopt 
 European habits of industry, became converted, and dis¬ 
 played considerable ability in printing and other arts. Some 
 
XVII.] 
 
 LIGHTNING IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 159 
 
 time elapsed, and one day the young man came and said 
 farewell. The Bishop was much vexed that he should leave 
 him; but on inquiring his reasons he received this reply, 
 
 “ You have separated me from my wives; the one wife you 
 left to me has dishonoured me, and I leave you for the bush 
 and the blanket.” 
 
 It struck me as singular that there was not one old or 
 even oldish man in the church, not one with a grey hair in 
 his head except myself. 
 
 I attended some of the debates in the House of Representa¬ 
 tives, which were exceedingly well conducted, the members 
 possessing considerable power of speaking. 
 
 A review was held in which the volunteers, both cavalry 
 and infantry, joined ; one cavalry corps was composed of young 
 cadets, about eighteen years of age ; they rode extremely well, 
 doing the greatest credit to the colonists of Natal, who are 
 noted for their skill in horsemanship. Towards the termination 
 of the review the heavens showed that a severe thunderstorm 
 was brewing. On the same spot some years ago three soldiers 
 of the 20th Regiment were struck dead on parade, their bayonets 
 having been imprudently kept fixed during a storm, by order of 
 the commanding officer. 
 
 Fearful accidents continually happen from lightning in 
 South Africa. In the Orange Free State, at certain seasons, 
 every post will bring tidings of fresh disaster. On one occasion, 
 when I was at Bloemfontein, it was reported that on the 
 Modder river, but a few miles distant, four Kafir lads had been 
 struck dead with their dog. At Harry Smith, about the same 
 time, three gentlemen were playing billiards, when two were 
 struck, one killed dead on the spot, and the room destroyed. 
 Lightning conductors are now extensively used. There is 
 nothing of which natives are more afraid than lightning. To 
 avert it they place a pink feather of the flamingo above 
 their huts, which they rely upon as a sure specific against the 
 
160 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 danger. A chief would be willing to give ten oxen for a 
 flamingo rather than be without it. I was amused at the story 
 of a blacksmith who, being desirous of saving his property 
 during the war, had put up a hammer in front of his house, 
 taking care that all the Kafirs in the neighbourhood should be 
 informed that this was his lightning conductor, and that any one 
 who touched it would certainly be struck dead. The manoeuvre 
 was declared to have been quite successful. 
 
 Durban is a large and flourishing town, and commauds a 
 considerable commerce. It is the only port of the colony of 
 Natal, and through it much of the inland trade is carried to 
 Pondo land, Griqualand, Basuto land, the Free States, Griqua- 
 land West, the Transvaal, and even to the Zambesi, while the 
 wild tribes of Zulu land are almost wholly dependent on it for 
 their European supplies. 
 
 The town of Durban is built upon a belt of sand which to 
 all appearance has risen on the banks of the estuary itself. 
 The port of Durban, although so much depends upon it, is by 
 no means satisfactory, as large sand-banks are forming not 
 merely in the basin, but in the throat of the harbour, while 
 the bar at its mouth is shifting. 
 
 To mitigate, with some hope of eradicating, these difficulties, 
 various schemes have been adopted, but none steadily pursued. 
 A comparatively inexpensive plan was first tried, but when 
 success was attending its execution, it was superseded by one 
 which was quite gigantic, but which broke down in its turn from 
 a collapse in the funds of the contractor. Should the views of 
 Sir J. Coode be carried out, a perfect success may be looked for. 
 In consequence of the position of Durban, which lies in a low 
 swampy spot, it might be inferred that it would be unhealthy, but 
 the contrai-y must be the case, for the troops enjoy excellent 
 health. Wounds heal rapidly, and it is reported that when the 
 20th Regiment were besieged by the Boers on the first occu¬ 
 pation of Natal, that the u'ounded, although deprived of almost 
 
XVII.] 
 
 TOO STUPID TO BE A CHRISTIAN. 
 
 161 
 
 every comfort, and having undergone the most frightful 
 privations, recovered in a marvellous way. Bronchitis is 
 almost unknown, and this renders Natal a very favourite resort 
 for many of our countrymen at home who are afflicted with this 
 painful complaint. There is, however, one serious evil, the 
 impurity of the water. The Umgani river is said to contain a 
 small and dangerous animal, not well known as yet to medical 
 science, which secretes itself in the neck of the bladder, causing 
 a very serious disease. 
 
 The accounts of the siege, above referred to, are very in¬ 
 teresting. Captain Sinythe of the 20th appears to have been 
 a very brave man, but somewhat imprudent. Not contented 
 with beating off the enemy from his entrenched position, he 
 made a night attack upon them, when, either through a mis¬ 
 take in his approach or by the treachery of his guides, he was 
 forced back by superior numbers, his men got entangled in the 
 mangrove swamps, and almost the whole of the attacking party 
 fell. A Mr. King then volunteered to ride with the news of 
 the disaster to King William’s Town, a distance of 458 miles, 
 a wonderful feat, which he accomplished through this wild 
 country in nine days. 
 
 Whilst at Durban an amusing story was told me regarding 
 the native police. A Kafir bought 3d. worth of bananas, for 
 selling which on a Sunday a coolie was fined 51. The nine 
 o’clock bell referred to is a sort of curfew, after which natives 
 are not allowed to be about without permission. 
 
 Before the magistrate the Kafir made the following depo¬ 
 sition :— 
 
 I am the Kafir who bought the bananas for a “pen ” (a penny) 
 My name is Ji-Ji. My mistress at the Umlilali taught 
 me to write, but she could not teach me to be a Christian, 
 because I too much stupid. One day I came to town to 
 work for money to pay the hut tax. I wanted money very 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 much because Mr. -- not give me any more skred.it. 
 
 When I got into town the sun was quite dead on Saturday, 
 and I was very hungry. 
 
 I went to see my brother; my brother’s name is Kitchen, he 
 works for the white man that kills the ships, and builds 
 houses with them. My brother say, “ White man not like 
 you sleep here; not like you eat scoff.” 
 
 By-and-by white man came on and kick me three times, hard, 
 and I ran out into street and heard the 9 o’clock bell cry. 
 Then I ran very quick and got into a railway carriage to go 
 to sleep. By-and-by four white men come and say they 
 sleep in that carriage, and kick me out. Me very sore and 
 my heart tell me to die. So I lay on the ground. Then 
 coolie came out of another carriage with a light, and said: 
 “ You give me 6 d. and you sleep in my carriage; you no 
 give me 6d., you go to jail.” I gave two pens, I go in, I go 
 to sleep. I wake, I look, it is light; coolie gone, money 
 gone, I there alone, I berry much afraid, I go out. By-and- 
 by bells, cry much and people go to church. I sit near 
 white church and see the people go in. They sing loud 
 and I go into town. I go to house of Fundisi with long 
 coat. Boy in kitchen tell me Fundisi soon come on and 
 give me scoff Fundisi come on with long coat and black 
 book, Fundisi say mealie meal twenty shillings a muid, 
 then he kick me twenty times and shaia me with black 
 book on head ; then I ran away very sore. Good boy lend 
 me one pen. I walk in street three streets. I see shop with 
 bread, I go in and say, “ Bread for pen ”; white man say, 
 “ This is Sabbath,” and kick me out. I go on. I see Coolie 
 Store; I buy bananas for pen. White policeman come 
 on. Kafir policeman come on. He hit me on head with 
 knobkerrie and take bananas. He eat five, white police¬ 
 man eat ten. I run away. I see Tom who works for 
 Frenchman. We go to his kitchen; I eat scoff. French- 
 
XVII.] 
 
 SUNDAY TRADING. 
 
 163 
 
 man come on and say, “ You black thief, I catch you now.” 
 He give me to policeman. I sleep in tronk. Next day 
 magistrate tell me, “You break bye-law; you go jail one 
 month.” I go jail; I come out. Durban no good, no good 
 at all. 
 
 (Signed) Ji-Ji. 
 
164 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [CiiAr. 
 
 CHAPTER XYIII. 
 
 THE TUGELA. 
 
 As there was no steamer starting for some days, I made arrange¬ 
 ments with Captain Elton to visit the eastern portion of the 
 seaboard towards the Tugela river, to see the sugar and coffee 
 plantations in that district. 
 
 Captain Elton very kindly provided for our use a carriage 
 with four smart horses. We first crossed the Umgani river, 
 now nearly dry; but from the debris of a fine iron bridge 
 which had been broken to pieces and still encumbered the banks 
 of the stream, it could be seen that the river sometimes became 
 a raging torrent, overflowing its banks and carrying all before 
 it. Here we saw a steam-power ice-making machine, which 
 the owner said would pay very well, provided he could obtain 
 intelligent labour at moderate prices. Native labour, however, 
 was not intelligent, and European was costly and the men 
 drunken in their habits, so that he thought he must close the 
 business. 
 
 On crossing the Umgani, we were shown a spot on the river- 
 bank from which a sea-cow nightly emerged to eat the sugar¬ 
 cane. This animal is, however, so cunning, and has such won¬ 
 derful scent, that they could not kill it. There are also 
 crocodiles in the Umgani, though they do not seem to attain 
 any great size. 
 
 We started for Verulam beyond the river. The road winds 
 through an undergrowth of luxuriant shrubs, occasionally giving 
 beautiful peeps of the sea beyond. 
 
 We met parties of Kafirs working, either going to or coming 
 
VIII.] 
 
 COALS TO NEWCASTLE. 
 
 165 
 
 from the plantations. Almost all of them, of both sexes, were 
 without any clothing; some of the women’s only adornment 
 being armlets and waistbelt. I mentioned this to a gentleman 
 of high position, well acquainted with the natives, and he told 
 me an anecdote which was interesting. On one occasion he 
 was talking to a Kafir chief, and asked him why his young 
 daughter was not clothed: “ Master,” he replied, “ she is 
 clothed in the garb of innocence, she does not know that she is 
 naked. Would that all in the world were like her!” 
 
 We continually passed large sugar and coffee plantations, 
 and in one instance a small tea plantation. The plants were 
 thriving, and promised to be a great success. As a rule the 
 coffee plantations in Natal have not proved very successful. 
 The introduction of the Liberian coffee-plant has been recom¬ 
 mended, as the species appears to live well at a low level. 
 The Arabian coffee-plant is said to thrive best at a level 
 of from 4000 to 6000 feet above the sea. The tobacco-plant 
 also grows in Natal with great luxuriance. 
 
 Verulam appeared a flourishing settlement, the houses 
 and stores being built principally of wood brought from Sweden 
 and Norway; everything, in fact, but meat, coffee and sugar 
 being a foreign production. 
 
 Upon this subject a great political discussion had lately 
 been going on in the Cape Colony, in consequence of 
 Mr. Fronde’s speech at Bloemfontein and the Diamond Fields, 
 as to their not being self-supporting. Why did they bring 
 planks from the Baltic when they had a forest like the Nysua; 
 butter from Holland, when pasture land abounded at the Cape ; 
 fish from Newfoundland and Scotland, when plenty was to be 
 had on their coasts ? The answer is, that labour is so high here, 
 that those articles are dearer when made on the spot than if 
 brought from thousands of miles distant. Coals from Newcastle 
 in England are infinitely cheaper at Pietermaritzberg than if 
 brought from the Newcastle in Natal. 
 
166 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The labourer is employed in producing raw articles of com¬ 
 merce, such as wool, skins, iron ore, diamonds, gold, &c., which 
 pay very much better. 
 
 The sugar-cane bears well, and is reckoned to produce a 
 good yearly profit, even where money is borrowed at 8 or 10 per 
 cent. Frequently, however, 12 or 15 per cent, have to be 
 paid, when it is scarcely possible that a sugar estate can be 
 profitable. 
 
 Apparently there were were about as many Kafirs working 
 on these properties as there were coolies from the East Indies. 
 The labour of the latter is more certain, because they never 
 leave the estates, whereas Kafirs go and come at their own 
 pleasure. The great risk in sugar planting is the uncertainty 
 of labour. 
 
 The best method of ensuring a supply of Kafir labour is to 
 obtain possession of an estate in the interior, and to bring 
 labourers down to it in relays. This plan has been found to 
 answer well, the privilege of squatting on the grazing farm 
 being accorded on the condition of work with payment on the 
 sugar estate. 
 
 On the sugar plantations on the coast the best of cotton 
 could no doubt be grown. A table-cloth made of Cape cotton 
 which was shown in the Philadelphia Exhibition was so fine 
 that the judges would not believe it was all cotton, and had a 
 piece cut off to have it tested. But the price of labour is a 
 very material consideration in cotton growing. 
 
 In the afternoon of the following day I inspected the 
 mounted volunteers by invitation of the Government. The troop 
 was not numerous, but the young men were strong, rough, and 
 ready; they were well mounted, and rode with a firm seat. 
 
 On our return from this inspection we prolonged our ride 
 through some of the plantations. On descending a hill we 
 were met by a witch doctress, who came dancing along the 
 road. With the exception of bracelets, armlets, and anklets 
 
XVIII.] 
 
 A KAFIR MESSENGER. 
 
 167 
 
 of brass, she was otherwise almost naked ; she had long scarlet 
 streamers in her hair, and a bunch of feathers suspended from 
 her girdle. 
 
 Such women have great influence, and it is most dangerous 
 for natives to thwart their wishes. 
 
 In Durban the planters from the estates who visited the 
 club, of which I was kindly allowed to become a temporary 
 member, were very attentive to me; but amongst themselves 
 they are somewhat boisterous and noisy in their jokes. One 
 night I heard a terrible uproar, which was explained to me 
 in the morning, a gentleman having found a snake twelve feet 
 long in his bed. 
 
 During my detention at Durban I was appealed to by a 
 raw Kafir. It appeared that he had been sent by his master 
 with a message; but the first shopman of whom he made 
 inquiry as to the residence of the person for whom the letter 
 wus intended, being desirous of sending round some notices, 
 thrust them into the man’s hands. The Kafir started on his 
 way, eagerly showing the notes and asking of every passer-by 
 the whereabouts of their destination. While delivering them, 
 more letters and advertisements were continually added, so that 
 he was kept running all day, wondering, of course, at the 
 extraordinary result of his first message, while his master was 
 raging at the long absence of his servant. 
 
 The large numbers of skins of wild animals which lay in the 
 storehouses at Durban ready for exportation, were surprising— 
 those of the giraffe, zebra, buffalo, and buck being innumer¬ 
 able. A large portion of the two former had been sent from 
 Zulu land by Mr. John Dunn, who has sent regular parties of 
 hunters out for years for the purpose of killing wild game. 
 This gentleman has lived many years in Zulu land. 
 
 Cetew'ayo appears to have great confidence in him. He is 
 w r ell known to many of the- colonists in Natal, and also to 
 European sportsmen, officers of her Majesty’s Guards having 
 
168 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 accompanied liim in former years in sporting expeditions in the 
 interior. He now receives 300/. a year from the Natal Govern¬ 
 ment, for acting as a kind of political agent to the Zulu King. 
 It is said that through his instrumentality large numbers of 
 guns have been introduced into Zulu laud; hut if the King 
 insists upon arming his troops and has cattle to exchange, he 
 needs no John Dunn to carry out his wishes. 
 
 Whole regiments of Zulus have been marched into the 
 proximity of Lorenzo Marques—each man returning with two 
 muskets, and it is said that Basutos are employed at the chief’s 
 kraal in making gunpowder. 
 
 We spent two very pleasant days at Port Elizabeth, and 
 then embarked in the Kafir —a coasting steamer which was 
 returning from Delagoa Bay. 
 
 The terrible rolling qualities of this vessel were proverbial, 
 but the pleasant manners of the commander did all that was 
 possible to make amends for them. 
 
 A curious circumstance had happened with regard to this 
 ship on her way up the coast. She was carrying a number of Zulu 
 Kafirs who had been employed on the Western Kailway works. 
 Some of the sailors becoming mutinous, a passenger who spoke 
 the Kafir language told the Zulus to give their assistance to 
 the captain, as the sailors were going to throw him overboard, 
 and if this happened everybody must perish, as he was the only 
 person who knew the paths on the sea. 
 
 The Zulus were greatly alarmed at this information. They 
 sprung below, seizing their assegais and surrounding the crew, 
 who in their turn were terrified beyond measure, and imme¬ 
 diately hastened to obey all their captain’s commands. 
 
 This was my second long tour in South Africa. Since then 
 many chiefs I have described have undergone numerous 
 vicissitudes of fortune. 
 
 In November 1875 Gangaleswe was placed under a British 
 resident magistrate. Makaula, the chief of the Amabacas, 
 
XVIII.] THE SUPPLY OF RIFLES TO THE NATIVES. 1G9 
 
 persuaded our Government to take his country under our 
 rule. 
 
 Umtkonthlo was warned against too liberal a use of his Win¬ 
 chester rifles; and Umquikala, Damas, Moni, and Kreli were 
 severally told that we would not permit the pastime of war to 
 be carried on in or near the countries which we protected. 
 Kreli is now a fugitive with a price on his head. He is 
 believed to have gone into Zulu land. 
 
 Poor Jojo was for some time longer left to his fate as depen¬ 
 dent upon Umquikala the Pondo. 
 
 This tour had opened my eyes to many facts, not the least 
 serious being the dangerous extent to which the natives are 
 becoming armed, not only with old smooth-bore guns, hut 
 with excellent modern rifles. 
 
 For what purpose, then, is this insatiable craving for arms ? 
 It is to possess the all-powerful weapon with which the white 
 men conquered and brought them into subjection, but which 
 they hope to employ in their turn against their conquerors. 
 Then, of course, the British soldier will be implored to come 
 £o the assistance of the colony, generous Old England will 
 be asked once more to pay the bill, and the colonists will be 
 ready to send waggons, and teams of oxen, with supplies at 
 fabulous prices, and to undertake all the necessary contracts 
 for the supply of the troops. 
 
 The following article from the ‘Free States Newspaper’ will 
 demonstrate the state of public opinion there at the extent to 
 which this traffic in arms is carried on:— 
 
 Our British neighbours have established at the Diamond Fields 
 free-trade in guns and ammunition, in spite of all treaties 
 with the Republics, and even in spite of their own professed 
 policy in the Cape Colony. 
 
 Griqualand West permits the supply of guns and ammunition 
 to the natives, Zulus and Basutos, without hindrance; and 
 
170 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XVIII. 
 
 whilst Earl Carnarvon requests all South Africa to meet in 
 a friendly conference, because of the native question and Zulu 
 difficulty, British traders supply her Majesty’s enemies, and 
 our enemies too, with guns and ammunition to any extent, in 
 order that these enemies may be better prepared to tight us 
 when the next struggle may commence. And, worst of all, 
 British commerce, represented by colonial shopkeepers and 
 merchants, who to fill their own pockets would not for a 
 moment hesitate to bring ruin upon the colonial farmers 
 and republican Boers, cry out that it is preposterous to stop 
 the trade in guns, and, unmindful of the peculiar circum¬ 
 stances of the country, they talk grandiloquently of “ free- 
 trade principles,” and so forth. Now, either all their anxiety 
 about unity in order to withstand the natives is hypocrisy, 
 or else the unlimited supply of arms and ammunition to our 
 common enemy is a crime of the blackest dye. 
 
 On the 6th of October we arrived at Table Bay. I could 
 now fully understand that there is no part of Africa so beautiful 
 as the back of Table Mountain. 
 
 This is mostly owing to the oaks and other trees in stately 
 . avenues planted by the Dutch near their residences, which, 
 backed by the grand old mountain, make up a picture that 
 would compare with almost any in the world. 
 
( 171 ) 
 
 BOOK III.—The Diamond Fields. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 GRIQUALAND WEST—THE DIAMOND FIELDS. 
 
 I have told the tale of the emigration of the Griquas from 
 Griqualand West into Griqualand East, whither they fled to 
 enjoy greater tranquillity than they had found in the former 
 country. Not long after they departed, diamonds were dis¬ 
 covered. The story of the finding of diamonds, and of the 
 difficulties which attended the owners of the Great Kimberley 
 Mine, has been so often told that I shall not repeat it. 
 
 When gold or diamonds are found either in South Africa or 
 any other wild country, there is a tendency for private rights 
 of ownership to be invaded. There is a “ rush ” of lawless 
 diggers to the spot, who begin with frantic eagerness to tear up 
 the soil. A Committee is appointed to mark the place roughly 
 into “ claims,” and any protest the owner may make is only 
 respected so far as to give him some fixed share of the plunder. 
 As for considering all the diamonds his own he would be a 
 rash man who should dare to broach such a theory of property. 
 It is a case in which a sort of “jus naturale,” supported by 
 revolvers and bowie knives, overrides all ordinary rights of 
 ownership. So it was in this instance. The country had only 
 very recently been placed under English rule, and in fact it was 
 a sort of No-man’s-land, with no settled Government. 
 
 Most of the occupiers of land, especially in those parts 
 
172 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 where diamonds had been discovered, were Dutch farmers 
 whose fathers had left the colony in disgust at the liberation 
 of the slaves in the colony. Although a liberal sum for the 
 enfranchisement was awarded them, yet in consequence of some 
 mismanagement in regard to its payment, in which delays 
 occurred, they thought they should never receive it, sold their 
 claim for a comparative pittance, and trecked into the African 
 Wilds, seeking and obtaining from the native chiefs and rulers 
 beyond the Orange river, the freedom which they could not 
 enjoy near Cape Town. 
 
 On the discovery of diamond deposits on their lands, these 
 Dutch farmers, seeing an invasion of Englishmen, grew greatly 
 alarmed, and were ready to sell at prices which seemed 
 enormous, but proved in the sequel not to be a tenth of the 
 value. The individuals and companies who bought, unable 
 to treat the diamonds as their private property, contented 
 themselves with a rent on each claim. 
 
 Unfortunately, the Government, instead of at once stepping 
 in and purchasing the mines, allowed them to be sold to sharp 
 men who foresaw their eventual worth. The Colesberg Koppie 
 or New Kush was purchased for 6000k from a Dutch farmer 
 who had probably bought it for less than 100k 
 
 In 1875 the Government became the purchasers at 100,000k 
 It had yielded a rent of about 30,000k a year. As soon as the 
 diamonds were discovered tents were suddenly erected, and 
 digging commenced first on the river Yaal, at P. Neil, now 
 called Barkly, at De Toits Pan, 25 miles to the east, and sub¬ 
 sequently at the Colesberg Koppie or the New Kush, which last 
 has proved the most successful. 
 
 For a time anarchy prevailed. But as there must be some 
 law in every community, a Diggers’ Committee was organised. 
 The most heinous crime of all was theft, and thefts by 
 natives were those of the blackest nature. Then followed a 
 period of working, fighting, drinking, gambling, losing of 
 
XIX.] 
 
 DISPUTES AT THE DIAMOND FIELDS. 
 
 173 
 
 fortunes and making them—in fact, all the phenomena of a rush 
 for gold. Side by side the Cambridge honour prizeman and the 
 smart cavalry officer, once the darling of drawing-rooms, 
 worked with the Australian bushranger or the escaped felon. 
 The motley crew that was assembled there to struggle for 
 wealth could only be seen on 6ueh an occasion. 
 
 In the year 1875 the diggers had been at work at the 
 Diamond Fields for nearly four years, during which time about 
 three and a half millions’ worth of diamonds had been 
 extracted. 
 
 This sudden accession of wealth had been most opportune. 
 Farmers were enabled to pay off their mortgages, merchants 
 to prop up their failing houses, and lands to be enclosed and 
 cultivated. I trust that the great impetus given to the colony 
 may be more than transitory, but I cannot help fearing that a 
 reaction similar to those seen in England may take place, and 
 that bad times may succeed the good. 
 
 Disputes took place between the diggers and the Govern¬ 
 ment. Commissioners were sent down to settle all these 
 quarrels. In this they partially succeeded, and partially 
 foiled. 
 
 When the English law suited the diggers, they swore by 
 England; but when the Dutch law suited them best, they 
 declared that they would join the Free States. 
 
 The diggers were generally Englishmen of education or 
 Dutch farmers, for a digger is not a man who digs out the 
 stones, but one who superintends natives, and employs Hot¬ 
 tentots, Kafirs, Zulus—any one he can find to dig for him. 
 
 Moreover, repeated disputes arose as to what the rights of 
 the proprietors were, and cases constantly came before the 
 Recorder, who was sent by the Government to act as Judge. 
 
 His difficulties must have been very great. According to 
 the strictest law, the owners of the soil possessed absolute power 
 to do what they pleased with it and to eject the diggers. 
 
174 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 To have a pronounced decision in conformity with tliis would 
 have produced a revolution. Moreover, blacks and whites were 
 on an equality in the eyes of the law, but the whites firmly set 
 their faces against purchase of claims by natives, and to have 
 attempted to carry out tbis principle against the will of 5000 
 determined diggers, well armed and accustomed to deeds of 
 violence, would have required a small army. 
 
 In the Free States, six miles distant, there was no such 
 difficulty. There no native could hold land or other property. 
 All blacks can be sent to the field cornet and receive a round 
 dozen or so on vague charges and unsupported assertion, a justice 
 which the diggers complained could not be meted out on British 
 soil. Many wished that the British flag should be hauled down, 
 for one with “ Why should not every man whop his nigger ? ” 
 
 Moreover, niggers who were allowed to work for themselves 
 at the poor or worthless mines used to work for masters at the 
 richer ones, secreting diamonds there, carrying them off to the 
 poorer mines and pretend to find them. 
 
 In the spring of 1875 the discontent of the diggers grew 
 dangerous. They proposed either to join the Free State 
 Republic, where every man could thrash his nigger as he liked, 
 or to haul down the British flag and form a Republic on their 
 own principles. They formed a Diggers’ Association and held 
 secret meetings. 
 
 It is said that in April these would-be rebels numbered 
 from 600 to 700 men, all armed, and formed into companies, 
 battalions, and squadrons of cavalry. They drilled openly 
 under German and Irish Fenian officers. 
 
 They resisted the arrest of a man, who was sent to gaol 
 for purchasing arms without a licence, and a scene occurred in 
 front of the public offices, which, by mere accident, did not end 
 in bloodshed. 
 
 The Lieutenant-Governor then thought it was high time to 
 interfere. The uncertainty at Cape Town regarding the real 
 
XIX.] EXPEDITION AGAINST DIGGERS' REPUBLIC. 175 
 
 state of affairs caused some delay in sending up the troops, but 
 the Governor finally requested me to dispatch a force. 
 
 I directed that it should consist of 250 infantry, 40 mounted 
 infantry and two Armstrong guns, with 25 Royal Artillery¬ 
 men. 
 
 Haying no cavalry at my command, and no horses, my first 
 care was to supply the deficiency, by mounting 40 men of the 
 24th Regiment, and to purchase horses for them and for the 
 two guns. 
 
 These measures caused some amusement at the time, as it 
 was supposed by those who were ignorant of military affairs, 
 that infantry soldiers could never be turned into cavalry. 
 
 My experience has always shown me that picked officers 
 and men from foot regiments can in a very short time be 
 turned into mounted riflemen of the very best desciption. 
 
 In the meantime very reliable information was received 
 that the associates had procured two Armstrong guns, and that 
 they had stated their intention of meeting the Imperial troops 
 on the river Modder, and disputing the passage. 
 
 This was the exact state of things when I left Cape Town 
 on May 25th. The Governor, placing the most serious respon¬ 
 sibilities upon me, at the same time gave me the fullest latitude 
 of action in confidential instructions. The distance we had to 
 march was about 700 miles. 
 
 The most direct route from Cape Town is through the 
 Karoo, a tract of country covex-ed with very little else than 
 stones, with scarcely any water, and no wood except the Karoo 
 bushes. The accounts which I received from those who were 
 considered the most intelligent men in Cape Town were 
 appalling. It was said that I could not move troops through 
 this district, that they would die by the road of starvation 
 and want of water, and that the expedition would collapse. 
 
 I always found that there were two parties at the Cape, one 
 who declared that there was no danger or difficulty in any 
 
176 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 undertaking whatever, and the other who magnified every 
 molehill into a mountain. 
 
 It is true that a march of 700 miles through a wild country 
 requires prudence, especially when economy has to be studied. 
 Of course, anything can be done with money, the difficulty 
 being to do it when your means are limited. 
 
 The usual and much the least costly mode of conveyance 
 of the supplies of a force in South Africa is by bullock waggons. 
 They proceed easily at the same rate as the men can march, 
 but in the present case, two obstacles presented themselves to 
 this mode of conveyance. No bullock could live in the 
 Karoo for want of grass to eat and water to drink. It was 
 requisite that the troops should move quickly, their presence 
 being required immediately at the Diamond Fields, and twenty 
 or thirty miles had frequently to be got over in the day, other¬ 
 wise the troops would have had no water. 
 
 The difficulty was to obtain transport. As soon as it was 
 known that we desired mule waggons, the prices rose to a most 
 exorbitant height. Finally, however, we made arrangements 
 for 10 mule waggons with 10 mules in each for the first party 
 of 100 men, and 23 waggons with an equal proportion of mules 
 for the second party of 230 men. Each waggon was hired at 
 about 7 1. 10s. per day, the mules to be fed by the owners. 
 When the high rate of freight is considered, the bargain was 
 by no means a bad one. Each waggon was calculated to carry 
 6000 lbs. weight besides forage. 
 
 For the conveyance of myself, staff, servants, and baggage, 
 I hired a spring waggon with eight horses and a cart with 
 four horses. 
 
( 177 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 START FOR THE DIAMOND FIELDS. 
 
 On the morning of the 25th of May we arrived at Wellington, 
 seventy miles distant, going ourselves that distance by rail. 
 
 The line of railway was progressing very satisfactorily, 
 the colony being rich and the money readily forthcoming. 
 The sale of spirits to the black man as well as to the white 
 was sad to witness. Fights, in which the English navvies took 
 an active part, continually occurred. The Dutch Boers could 
 not understand who these strong men were, or from whence 
 they came. They said they had heard of many countries, but 
 to what country did the navvies belong ? What a terrible 
 nation they must be ! 
 
 For conducting each of our waggons two men were re¬ 
 quired ; one to hold the reins and work the break, the other 
 to use the whip, by means of which alone the horses are guided. 
 It exactly resembles a seventeen-foot salmon rod, and is used 
 with all the practised dexterity of a first-rate fly-fisher; its 
 pointed thong of hide being, by the skill of the driver, placed 
 exactly on the selected tender spot of any of the eight horses 
 of the team. To the waggon was attached a little boy, whom 
 we called Flibberty Gibbet, who was curiously dressed. 
 Beneath an old English tall pot he wore a coarse red night¬ 
 cap, with a yellow border. His face was black, his coat dark 
 red, lie had short blue breeches and shining black legs, hardly 
 distinguishable from black silk stockings. 
 
 At Wellington we found the waggon packed and waiting for 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 us, and placing our light baggage in it, we were soon upon our 
 road to the interior. 
 
 The first part of the road immediately on leaving Wellington 
 is up a very high mountain, by a gorge called Baine’s .Kloof. 
 There a large body of convicts were employed for some years 
 in cutting a passage through the rocks, and have accomplished 
 a very satisfactory result. The railroad now in progress circles 
 round the mountain through w hich this road is made, joining it 
 in the valley beyond. When finished, this piece of work 
 will probably be allowed to go to ruins. 
 
 This was the fate which was predicted by the landlord 
 of the small inn at Darling, immediately below. He was con¬ 
 sidering what repairs he should execute on his house, so that it 
 might last the exact time required, before the railway was 
 finished so far, when, as he stated, he should “ skedaddle.” 
 
 Arrived at Darling, w'e outspanned horses for a short rest, 
 and subsequently trotting merrily along, we reached Worcester, 
 forty miles from Wellington, by 7 p.m. 
 
 During our journey shelter was not unfrequently refused. 
 When it was granted, 17. was generally demanded for the use 
 of the mud floor of a cabin for the night, with a small amount 
 of firewood. 
 
 At Constable we came to a sort of oasis in the desert Karoo. 
 The landlord had let four waggons to the service, receiving 
 327. per day for them with their thirty-two mules, but including 
 their feed and the payment of the drivers. 
 
 The feelings with which some of the Dutch Boers re¬ 
 garded the expedition were singular enough. They pitied the 
 soldiers, who they said were destined never to return, as they 
 would all be killed by the Dutchmen of the Dree State and 
 the Transvaal. We endeavoured to explain to them that it 
 was not our intention to go into the Free State, or near the 
 Transvaal, but nothing could make them believe us. As far 
 as truth is concerned, morality in South Africa is at the 
 
XX.] 
 
 A CAMP IN THE ROAD. 
 
 179 
 
 lowest ebb, and they naturally look upon any information they 
 receive with the same suspicion as that which they give 
 generally deserves. 
 
 With the passing troops was a staff-officer, with one of the 
 new regulation spiked helmets; on observing which an old 
 shepherd said he knew which of the soldiers would be most 
 successful with the rebels—pointing out the officer with the 
 helmet—“A pretty ramming he’ll give ’em.” 
 
 Wretched hovels now succeeded each other at every nightly 
 halting-place; but we preferred to use them rather than have 
 the trouble of pitching our tents, which always involved a 
 delay in the morning. 
 
 At Blood liiver the house was kept by an Englishman, who 
 entertained us well. As it was plentifully watered, his garden 
 was well stocked with vegetables, and with oranges and other 
 fruit. 
 
 This night we slept in the middle of the soft dusty road, the 
 owner of the small farm at which we outspanned refusing 
 shelter either to ourselves or our horses. We chose the middle 
 of the road, because the stones had been well pounded into 
 dust, and were much softer than at the sides, which were 
 rocky, the only danger being that a waggon might run over us 
 in the dark night. As it is very difficult to stop the bullocks 
 on such occasions, this was not altogether an imaginary danger. 
 
 Beaufort is a nice clean town. It owes its advance principally 
 to some neighbouring hills of excellent pasturage, and to a fine 
 dam of water, about two miles across. The dam, however, had 
 not long since broken down, owing, no doubt, to its faulty con¬ 
 struction. A large number of convicts are now employed in its 
 restoration. 
 
 The prosperity of Beaufort is evidently on the increase; and 
 no doubt it does not suffer from the fact that its parliamentary 
 representative is the Prime Minister of the colony, owning 
 a magnificent farm, said to contain 00,000 or 70,000 acres, in 
 
 n 2 
 
ISO 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 its immediate neighbourhood, with more than 30,000 sheep 
 on it. 
 
 There were some nice farmhouses occasionally by the road¬ 
 side, the owners of which showed no friendly feelings, being 
 persuaded, as usual, that the ultimate designs of our advance 
 was an attack upon the Free State—or the Transvaal— 
 inhabited principally by their fellow-Dutclimen. 
 
 They allowed us the use of their rooms and kitchen, and 
 supplied us with a little bread and milk, and sometimes coffee, 
 demanding from one to two sovereigns for this meagre enter¬ 
 tainment. It must however be remembered that the rush of 
 diamond-diggers through this country has naturally stopped 
 indiscriminate hospitality to all comers. 
 
 At Kruidfontein we overtook a convoy of four Cape carts, 
 going northwards on a venture. For these were demanded 70?. 
 or 80?. each; they certainly could be purchased at home for 
 25?. They are two-wheeled, and carry four persons, and have a 
 fixed hood. 
 
 By the roadside were numerous wild melons, like twenty-four 
 pound shot. They were attached to the ground by a thread¬ 
 like stem, scarcely discernible, especially where it had become 
 withered by the drought. These melons, I believe, are unfit 
 for food, even for animals, although their appearance is very 
 tempting. 
 
 On the 3rd of June we reached Murraysburgh. It was here 
 that the President of the Transvaal was bora, and held a cure 
 as minister of the Dutch church. This is a very pretty rising 
 town, and apparently well supplied with water. 
 
 From this district all the wool and other produce goes to 
 Port Elizabeth by way of Graaf-Keinet. 
 
 We passed Richmond, a wealthy district, with some of the 
 finest farms and richest proprietors in this region; indeed, the 
 Government taxation amounts to about 16,000?. per annum, 
 while the local expenditure is not more than 1000?. 
 
XX.] 
 
 .4 DUTCH FARMER'S TOWN HOUSE. 
 
 181 
 
 We were now in the eleventh day of our journey, having 
 travelled each day from dawn to dark. The distance covered 
 was about four hundred miles, or that from London to Edin¬ 
 burgh. On a rough calculation this journey had taken just 
 eleven times the time required, as well as eleven times the 
 expense which it would have done by railroad. 
 
 Hanover has a grand appearance: the Dutch minister’s 
 house, standing in the centre, being quite a palace. It was built 
 by the subscription of his parishioners. The honours which the 
 Dutch lavish on the ministry are worthy of remark. In all the 
 distant central towns in this colony it is the habit of the Dutch 
 farmers to purchase a plot of ground, upon which they erect a 
 small two-roomed house. Here they meet at festivals, aud 
 baptise and marry. In addition, they do a certain business in 
 wool; while the good wives purchase stores for the following 
 months’ supply. When they leave the town they lock the doors, 
 and the house remains empty until the next time it is required. 
 
 On the great high-roads to the Diamond Fields open house 
 to all passers-by is not now the rule, nor could it be expected; 
 but in other parts of the colony, particularly those more distant 
 from the large towns and off the post-roads, open house is still 
 kept for all. A hearty welcome is given at each meal, where 
 the whole family sit down at one large table, the choicer wines 
 and dishes being placed before the master of the house, above 
 the salt. 
 
 Coffee is served in the morning, with little else until one 
 o’clock, when there is a substantial dinner, and, late in the 
 evening, supper. Coffee is served universally with each of these 
 meals, and occasionally, in the better houses, some Cape sherry. 
 The universal use of coffee throughout the colony is no doubt 
 owing to the constant communication which was formerly held 
 between it and Batavia, as no coffee is grown in the colony 
 itself, and that which has been produced in Natal has not 
 hitherto proved a success. 
 
182 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Before the family retire to rest the large Bible is opened, 
 and the chapter appropriate to the day is read. 
 
 This Bible is frequently a very curious and ancient volume, 
 containing the history of the family for some generations, with 
 records of the marriages, births, and burials of all the members 
 of the family from the period of their emigration from Holland. 
 
 The cocks at Hanover crowed so pertinaciously all night, that 
 even my twelve days’ travel did not make me proof against them. 
 In the morning I found that the yew trees surrounding the 
 house were converted into a roost. The cultivation of poultry 
 appeared much in vogue here; each household adopting its 
 own colour, which was painted on the back of the animal’s 
 head. At first I took these birds, particularly the ducks, to be 
 some new description of fowl, until the matter was explained to 
 me. I was much disappointed, for I thought I had recognised 
 some new and extraordinary species, which, if imported, would 
 have been considered a great rarity. 
 
 Philipstown is a very unattractive place. Ostrich-farming in 
 the neighbourhood is reported to be most productive—one farm 
 having this year sold nine young ostriches at 20 1. each. The 
 expense of rearing them could not have exceeded 100Z. Artisans 
 of all trades are doing well. The price of the necessaries of 
 life, bread and meat, does not exceed that at home, groceries 
 being somewhat dearer, lodgings at least twice as high, and 
 clothes costing half as much again; but he must be a poor 
 mason or carpenter who cannot earn his 12s. per day, if he will 
 only keep from Cape brandy. 
 
 On the 6th of June we breakfasted at Gfaspan, a very nice 
 house and a fine farm. Mr. De Villiers now breeds sheep, 
 finding it more profitable than horses. 
 
 It is singular enough that the name of De Villiers, which is 
 associated, in England, with so many historical recollections, 
 should be pronounced in the colony “ Filgee.” I never could 
 obtain a satisfactory explanation. Another curious fact is that 
 
FAMILY WORSHIP. 
 
 183 
 
 XX.] 
 
 the Jewish Rabbi, whose name is Radowick is called by the 
 Dutchmen Straubenzie. 
 
 Late in the evening we reached the tent at Aasvogle (the 
 Vulture’s Hill). This was the residence of a rich Dutch 
 farmer, who refused us admission to his house and would not 
 even sell us an egg. Having been made aware of his usual 
 incivility, we had provided ourselves with all we wanted, and in 
 a brief time our tent was pitched, and a comfortable fire and 
 dinner prepared. We were thus independent of the lanky 
 Dutchman, whose tenement I do not think even the powers 
 of a George Robbins could convert into anything more magni¬ 
 ficent than a tumble-down wreck, such as is scarcely seen even 
 in the bogs of Galway. 
 
 Dressed in an old corduroy jacket, he watched us eagerly, 
 lest we should run off with a mite of his property. Yet this 
 man had 12,000 acres of land and at least 500 sheep! 
 
 Late in the evening the sounds of the evening hymn lloated 
 over the plain, the nasal twang of the patriarch being distinctly 
 heard leading the choir, while female voices with their plaintive 
 notes chimed in. 
 
 It is pleasant to hear in these lone lands such evidences 
 of a religious sentiment pervading the community, and it is an 
 assurance that the people are contented and happy. 
 
 June 7th .—As usual at this season the morning was beautiful. 
 We outspanned at Karoo-bosh, a large pan almost destitute of 
 water. The owner of the house had a number of beautiful 
 skins of kooboo, hartebeeste, eland, &c., which he had shot some 
 years ago in the neighbourhood. 
 
 In the afternoon Hopetown church was visible in the 
 distance, and after a hard tug in the sand we reached the town 
 at 4 r.M., and were tolerably well lodged at Smith’s Hotel. 
 
 The advent of our little army caused no small stir in the 
 place. Certain stores were still wanting to complete the equip¬ 
 ments ; the medical officers recommending an increase of warm 
 
184 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 clothing. Thus an additional impetus was given to trade, 
 beyond the contracts of the commissariat. Everything but 
 meat was at an enormously high price. I inquired the price 
 of a plank of Swedish pine timber that lay outside a store, 
 20 feet long, by 12 inches wide and 3 inches thick. Its price 
 was 61. 10s. At this rate building must indeed be expensive. 
 But it had come from Sweden, and been brought up by waggons, 
 probably at 4 d. or 5 d. the pound weight. 
 
 For four-pound bundles of straw 2s. 6cl. was demanded, other 
 prices being in like proportion. 
 
 Hopetown cannot be said to be improving as fast as 
 formerly. Standing as it did on the verge of the colony, it was 
 the starting-point for all native traders to the interior, and the 
 point to which they brought all the successes of their ventures 
 inland, their ivory, ostrich feathers, gold dust, and a few stray 
 diamonds, and more than one wealthy firm made immense 
 profits thereby. Indeed, it is said it was no uncommon circum¬ 
 stance for traders to come loaded with 40,000/. worth of ostrich 
 feathers and ivory, to dispose of their wares to the merchants 
 of Hopetown. 
 
 We had now reached the G-olconda of South Africa. Close 
 to Cape Town we saw on the river bank a fine vein of crystals. 
 Not a few miles from this the famous “ Star of South Africa ” 
 had been found. This diamond was at first sold for 150/., and 
 immediately afterwards for 1100/., but I am told that it has 
 since not been considered so valuable. 
 
 Mr. Watermeyer of Cape Town told me that many years ago 
 he had received some pebbles from the Vaal river, which were 
 supposed to be crystals, and that he gave them away to a 
 person going to England. Some time afterwards he received, 
 anonymously, a very handsome diamond ring. He never knew 
 from whence it came, but supposes it must have been in 
 return for the stones, which probably turned out, many of them, 
 to be diamonds. 
 
XX.] 
 
 MOUNTING THE INFANTRY. 
 
 185 
 
 As I have said, the bright days of Hopetovvn are now 
 comparatively eclipsed, in consequence of the formation 
 of Kimberley, which, although even now, no more than a 
 canvas city, has naturally become the greatest centre of trade 
 in the northern part of South Africa, as the traders, who 
 formerly considered Hopetown as their base of operations, 
 now rely upon Kimberley. 
 
 By the 14th of June the small force under the command of 
 Colonel Glynn bad assembled on the south side of the Orange 
 river, at the Langford Ferry. 
 
 The occupation to which we now devoted ourselves was the 
 purchase of horses for our two guns, and for the body of 
 mounted infantry, which 1 had determined to organise. 
 
 With great exertion this was accomplished in eight days, and 
 the column consisted of 2 Armstrong guns, 25 Royal Artillery, 
 15 horses, 40 mounted men, 24th Regiment, and 250 infantry, 
 24th Regiment. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the energy with which the officers 
 seconded my endeavours to procure horses for the men that 
 were to be mounted. 
 
 Lieutenant Carrington travelled 300 miles in little more 
 than six days, and spent each night under his cart in the 
 open Veldt. He was rewarded by getting some very good 
 animals. 
 
 We then crossed the Orange river at Rustall’s Ferry : a very 
 good punt being kept by a successful man, said to be a Malay, 
 who, not many years ago, came up as a servant. He now 
 possesses a valuable store and thousands of sheep. 
 
 The care of the store was thrust upon him last year. 
 Previous to that period he had let it to two Germans, who had 
 a native boy in their employment. This youth roused their 
 anger by his carelessness, or peculations, or some other cause. 
 Charging him with some offence, the savage barbarians tied 
 him and flogged him, on and off, for four hours, and not 
 
186 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chai\ 
 
 content with this, got a boat and dragged him through the 
 river. The poor wretch, at his last gasp, lay on the colonial 
 side of the drift, and calling upon the Deity, which he had 
 hoped would have protected the black man, gave up the ghost. 
 
 The storekeepers fled, the tardy operations of justice, conse¬ 
 quent on the absence of Federation between the provinces 
 on either side of the river, enabled them to escape, and for 
 want of an owner the store fell into Itustall’s hands. 
 
 The post office and Customs arrangements were under the 
 care of a fine old officer, late of the Cape Mounted Kifles. He 
 had that morning passed through some waggons laden with the 
 produce of the interior, elephants’ tusks, karosses, worked skins, 
 and ostrich feathers, the value of one load being estimated at 
 30,000Z. The feathers of the wild bird are far finer than those 
 of the tame. 
 
 In consequence of the Customs’ duty arrangements an occa¬ 
 sional examination of baggage is necessary on the frontier, for 
 it sometimes happens that guns and gunpowder are introduced 
 on fictitious invoices, and in packages of other goods. It was 
 especially desirable now to put a restriction upon this contra¬ 
 band trade, in which I am afraid the merchants of the colony 
 occasionally indulge. It was stated that at the auction at 
 Cape Town of the wreck of the Celt fortunate purchasers of 
 some cases marked “boots,” discovered watches, jewelry, and 
 pistols, concealed in the lots which they had bought. 
 
 I halted one whole day at Belmont, where I held an inspec¬ 
 tion of the troops, a sight which had never before been seen 
 there. 
 
 Nothing could be kinder than the reception given to myself 
 and my staff. In the evening Mr. Wheland attended me on 
 the plains, when we saw many bucks. I had the good fortune 
 to kill one springbuck, placing a ball right through his heart 
 at 300 yards’ distance. 
 
 We saw many diminutive Griquas acting as farm-servants, 
 
XX.] 
 
 HOW THE BUSHMEN HUNT OSTRICHES. 
 
 187 
 
 and some Bosjesmans, or Bushmen, from the deserts of the 
 Korana. These little people are now becoming tame on this 
 side of South Africa. Formerly they were the terror of the 
 Dutch settlers. 
 
 The Bushman is wonderfully clever at the destruction of all 
 game. His favourite method of approaching ostriches is to 
 clothe himself in the skin of one of these birds, in which, taking 
 care of the wind, he stalks about the plain, cunningly imitating 
 the gait and motions of the ostrich until within range, when, 
 with a well-directed poisoned arrow from his tiny bow, he can 
 generally secure it. These insignificant-looking arrows are 
 about two feet six inches in length; they consist of a slender 
 reed with a sharp bone-head, thoroughly poisoned with a com¬ 
 position of which the principal ingredients are obtained some¬ 
 times from a succulent herb, having thick leaves yielding a 
 poisonous, milky juice, and sometimes from the jaws of snakes. 
 The bow rarely exceeds three feet in length; its string is of 
 twisted sinews. When a Bushman finds an ostrich’s nest he 
 ensconces himself in it, and there awaits the return of the old 
 birds, by which means he generally secures the pair. 
 
 Some years since, when everything from South Africa was 
 looked upon as strange, a knowing Yankee conceived the idea 
 of bringing home a party of Kafirs to astonish the citizens of 
 London. Very wisely, instead of going into the wilds to find 
 them, he contented himself with procuring some Kafirs from 
 within fifty miles of Cape Town, and having instructed them in 
 native dances, and clothed them in the skins and the war paint 
 of the Fingoes, he brought them to London. At that time a 
 Kafir war was going on, and the tax-payers were reminded of 
 South Africa by seeing a pretty considerable item introduced 
 yearly into the estimates. These wild Kafirs, therefore, for a 
 time became the rage. A Dutch farmer named De Beer was 
 in England on the grand tour. Seeing a placard advertising 
 these Kafirs, his curiosity was not unnaturally excited, and 
 
18 S 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 paying his shilling, he went into the hall in Leicester Square. 
 For some time he remained a quiet spectator of the scene, until 
 an evident excitement took place amongst the actors, and 
 suddenly, much to his annoyance, two of the wild Kafirs 
 rushed from the stage, and, clasping him round the neck, 
 shouted out in Dutch, “ Why here is old Papa De Beer.” 
 With difficulty releasing himself from their greasy embraces, 
 he discovered that these warlike savages were no other than 
 half-a-dozen of his own labourers, who had left his service 
 some six months previously, for some purpose that he had 
 vainly endeavoured to discover. Great, however, was the con¬ 
 sternation amongst the audience, who imagined that the 
 savages, out of some mad perversity, had determined to throttle 
 one of the audience. Each spectator fearing that he might be 
 the next victim of their deadly intentions, a great disturbance 
 was the result. 
 
 We had now some bad weather, always an unwelcome 
 accompaniment to a march, but we soon reached the junction 
 on the Modder river. 
 
 Here, as has been said, the Associates had declared that they 
 intended to dispute our passage, with 400 or 500 men, 40 or 
 50 cavalry, and two Armstrong guns. We found the river and 
 the ford entirely unoccupied, and wading through the stream 
 on a rocky bed, the whole force about knee deep, we soon 
 passed over, and formed camp on the northern bank. 
 
 At a canvas-built canteen, on the southern bank, resided a 
 tall Dutchman who had recently undergone imprisonment for 
 robbing the mail-bags of a considerable number of diamonds of 
 great value. It would appear that the bag got detached from 
 the cart, and, falling into his hands, the temptation was beyond 
 his power to resist. He opened it, and appropriated its con¬ 
 tents, but was detected without much difficulty. 
 
 It is worthy of remark how seldom anything of this 
 kind has occurred. A large number of diamonds leave by 
 
XX.] 
 
 THE DIAMOND MAIL. 
 
 189 
 
 almost every mail. Yet during the first three years after 
 the Kimberley mine was first opened, I believe I am not 
 wrong in saying that only three instances of mail robbery 
 occurred, and not one of them was accompanied by violence. 
 
 This is the more surprising when it is borne in mind how 
 many needy, disappointed men frequented the diggings to 
 improve their fortunes. 
 
 Three times a month a diamond bag is formed at Kimberley, 
 and the weight of the package is about 28 lbs. Taking 5 lbs. 
 as the weight of the wrappers, there is left 23 lbs. weight of 
 actual diamonds sent by each of these mails; which, on a 
 rough calculation (and it is utterly impossible to make other 
 than a very rough one, as the diamonds vary so much in size 
 and colour, and consequently in value), may be estimated as 
 worth from 30,000?. to 40,000?. 
 
 This, together with the common letter bags, is placed on the 
 mail cart with a driver, and no guard, and proceeds night and 
 day, at about eight miles per hour, the entire distance (about 
 seven hundred miles) to Cape Town. 
 
 It must be perfectly well known on the road what treasure 
 this cart conveys, and yet it has never once been stopped 
 and plundered. I very much doubt if a daily mail of such 
 value were to travel seven miles, instead of 700, through 
 the City of London, under similar circumstances, the treasure 
 would be so successfully conveyed. 
 
 In 1876 the packets of diamonds sent in this manner 
 amounted to a weight of 773 lbs., and in value to 1,414,5907., 
 which may be calculated at about three-quarters of the 
 value of the whole diamonds dug up in the mines during that 
 year. 
 
 I said that the occasions on which a robbery had taken place 
 were very few—indeed I believe only three. One was com¬ 
 mitted by a man who watched the postmaster leave his tent, 
 and, looking through the window, saw a packet within reach of 
 
190 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 his arm. Breaking the glass, he appropriated it; so slight were 
 the precautions taken for its security. 
 
 On the second occasion, the driver opened the packet, by 
 which some of the stones were strewed along the road. These, 
 being found, caused a diamond rush to the locality, which con¬ 
 tinued until the robbery became known. 
 
 In the third instance the mail dropped from the cart. The 
 Kafirs, though they will often steal, have something of the 
 dog’s nature as regards their fidelity in guarding property 
 given to them ‘‘on trust.” As a proof of this, a gentleman at 
 the mines told me that he had sent 10,000Z. worth of diamonds 
 by a Kafir to Hopetown on the Orange river, without fear of 
 the result. Most robberies by natives, I believe, are instigated 
 by three causes: the temptations placed in their way by 
 lawless buyers, the desire of obtaining arms, and the obliga¬ 
 tion which is laid upon them by the chief, in whose power they 
 have left their families, to bring something on their return. 
 Considering that Secocoeni has had some 20,000 natives work¬ 
 ing at the mines, each of whom is bound to bring home a stone, 
 he must have a great store of diamonds. 
 
 At the Junction some wild bustards were shot by some of 
 the officers. These were magnificent birds, weighing thirty or 
 forty pounds each, and excellent to eat. They were killed 
 with a single ball from a Martini-Henry express rifle. 
 
 It was fortunate that I had taken the precaution of bringing 
 a forge with the troops from Cape Town, for prices are start¬ 
 ling in Griqualand. One pound was charged for shoeing a 
 horse. It will be readily seen what straits young subalterns 
 were put to on 5s. 3d. per diem. 
 
 We had a very cold Sunday at the Junction, but fine 
 weather. Unfortunately one obstinate mule of our team led 
 seven more back through the river. We hunted for two days 
 on the north side, when news met us that the truants had 
 taken a southern course, and it was not till two days after- 
 
XX.] 
 
 WHAT IS TO BE DONE ? 
 
 191 
 
 wards that they were recovered at Honey Kloof. They re¬ 
 joined us on the fifth day. The accident caused us some 
 worry and inconvenience; but such things are too common 
 in South Africa to cause any comment. 
 
 A section of country between the Modder river and Kim¬ 
 berley had become a subject of dispute with the Free State. 
 They had detained some waggons, and a cause of complaint 
 was thus established against the Republic, and 600Z. damages 
 claimed. Determining, therefore, not to raise a question as 
 to my marching her Majesty’s troops on Free State soil, I 
 directed them to proceed on the following morning in the 
 direction of Darkly, on the Yaal river. On the 20th I halted 
 by a dam in Wolverdam, where the Lieutenant-Governor came 
 out to meet us. 
 
 I had now some doubt which would be my best course to 
 follow, whether to march upon Kimberley or to deviate 
 towards Barkly on the Yaal river, there to encamp the men 
 and wait the course of events. 
 
 By marching upon Kimberley, 1 feared lest the presence 
 of the troops might irritate the disaffected, and induce them 
 to commit some violent act upon the canvas city, such as 
 burning it, and retiring into the Free State, only six miles 
 distant. I was also somewhat afraid of desertions taking: 
 place among the troops. 
 
 On the other hand, if I avoided going into and through 
 the city, my not doing so might be imputed to a fear of 
 attack, an imputation which ought not to be allowed to rest 
 upon her Majesty’s troops. 
 
 Again, I thought that by taking the soldiers to see these 
 extraordinary miues, they would be less tempted to desert 
 than if rumours reached their ears of unbounded riches near 
 at hand, which they were forbidden to see. With the English 
 soldier confidence begets confidence, and I have never found 
 it betrayed when it is given freely. 
 
192 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 I therefore intimated to the Lieutenant-Governor my 
 intention to march through Kimberley. This resolution 
 gave him much satisfaction. 
 
 Some care was required not to allow the natives to loiter in 
 camp, for while sitting down, apparently intent on idleness, 
 they will purloin even the smallest article. 
 
 A gentleman near the Modder river told me that while he 
 was once stopping to have something repaired in his cart, 
 the blacksmith had thrown a bolt on the ground to cool. A 
 Kafir, not thinking that it was nearly red hot, dexterously 
 seized it between his toes in passing, intending to make off 
 with it. It may be imagined how he screamed with pain 
 when he discovered Ins mistake. The iron had become wedged 
 so tight between his toes, that he could not release it with 
 the aid of his fingers, and awful was the plight in which 
 the thief rushed bellowing into a neighbouring pool of water. 
 
 On the 21st we started by call of bugle, marching off at 
 8.30 A.M. The weather was dreadfully cold, especially 
 during the night; but the soldiers had become very hardy 
 in their march through the Karoo. 
 
 A bivouac without tents each night had inured them to 
 30° or even 25° of cold. Those who were on picquet were 
 sometimes sorely tried ; but there were no complaints, and 
 every man looked more healthy daily. A canteen was kept, 
 where a regulated amount of wine and spirits was to be 
 obtained-—but no excess was permitted. To this regula¬ 
 rity, with the cold weather and exercise, and a liberal ration 
 of meat and bread, the extraordinary health the men enjoyed 
 may be attributed. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 29th of June, the force camped in a small 
 valley within two miles of Kimberley; but so sheltered was 
 this spot by the rising ground, and so unexpected was the 
 flank march, that the citizens were not aware of our where¬ 
 abouts. Although buggies, carts, and omnibuses were at 
 
XX.] 
 
 END OF THE REVOLT. 
 
 193 
 
 premium prices to meet or see the troops, some going south 
 and some north, greatly to their disappointment the army 
 was invisible. 
 
 On Wednesday morning, by 10 a.m., the force was paraded 
 in the Park, and from thence, detaching the baggage to the 
 Homestead, the cavalry, guns, and infantry moved into 
 the heart of the city. Although there were many ugly faces, 
 and some of the ringleaders were pointed out among the 
 crowd, public opinion was now evidently on the side of 
 order. Hospitality was freely bestowed on the soldiers and 
 officers. The men marched in two successive parties to the 
 edge of the Diamond Crater, where the extraordinary qualities 
 of the wonderful abyss were explained to them by Mr. Hall. 
 It was most satisfactory to witness the interest which was 
 shown by the men at the sight. 
 
 As to ourselves, we were most sumptuously entertained by 
 the Lieutenant-Governor, and in the evening a beautiful ball, 
 given by the Masonic brotherhood, ended the day. 
 
 On the following morning, before 8 A.M., the ringleaders of 
 the revolt were arrested. 
 
 They were permitted to go at large on heavy bail, and thus 
 ended the Diamond Field revolt. There is no doubt that, if 
 it had been allowed to proceed further, it would have assumed 
 dangerous proportions. As it was, Sir Henry Barkly arrested 
 the mischief at the right moment. 
 
 Substantial evidence was produced that it was the intention 
 of the ringleaders to have deposed the Lieutenant-Governor 
 of the Diamond Fields, to have seized the reins of govern¬ 
 ment, and then to have offered the country to the Free 
 States, and, in default of their acceptance, to have created 
 a Republic—for themselves. 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 THE KIMBERLEY DIAMOND MINE. 
 
 The singular appearance of the great mine of Kimberley has 
 been so often described that I will not dwell upon it. It is 
 about the size of the New Square of Lincoln’s Inn, and twice 
 as deep as the houses there are high. The whole area from its 
 sides to the bottom was interlaced with countless wire-ropes ; 
 buckets ascending and descending. At the edge were thousands 
 of black natives, some attending to the buckets on their 
 arrival, others employed at small windlasses in wheeling the 
 blue clay to the surface. All seemed noise and confusion. 
 
 At the bottom of the mine was what appeared to be a ruined 
 city of roofless houses. The claims had been measured into 
 exact rectangular blocks, and the miners in digging had left 
 their party-walls between their respective areas. The clay is 
 stiff, and will stand many feet in height, so that this is the 
 cause of the singular appearance. 
 
 Thousands of natives were working on the margin of the 
 crater. These men at first sight appeared like a body of 
 soldiers; in fact, they constituted a part of the British army. 
 Every one of them was clothed, as far as his jacket went, with a 
 cast-off tunic—the Royal Artillery, Hussars, Guardsmen, and 
 Horse Artillery being all represented. What added to their 
 curious appearance was their tight-fitting black pantaloons, 
 which, however, on a nearer inspection were evidently those of 
 nature. At the dinner hour, when they temporarily ceased 
 work, the scene was very singular, for many of them, having 
 
XXI.] 
 
 NIGGER BILLIARD-TABLES. 
 
 195 
 
 just arrived from the far interior, had no ideas of civilisation. 
 It was amusing to see how they employed their leisure. Their 
 general occupation seemed to be to attend to their hair, on 
 which they had been accustomed to expend a great deal of 
 their superfluous time in the wilds. I was much amused by 
 observing a native from Lo Benguela’s country undergoing the 
 operation of being shaved by his companion, the substitute for 
 soap being his moistened finger, and the razor being a piece of 
 a broken bottle. The march of civilisation amongst the 
 natives has since made great strides, for now not only nigger 
 dining-halls and canteens, but nigger billiard-tables, all of 
 which are said to be in constant use, are frequent amongst 
 the corrugated iron dwellings. 
 
 On my subsequent visits large horse windlasses and iron 
 buckets of great size had replaced the smaller ones. The 
 adaptation of this horse machinery, and in some cases of steam 
 windlasses, reduces the number of the natives employed at the 
 upper edge, so that, instead of the hill appearing like a huge 
 ants’ nest when disturbed, it subsequently bore a look of order 
 and regularity. 
 
 The matrix in which the diamonds lie imbedded is a species 
 of blue clay deposited in the large caverns of rock ; once there¬ 
 fore this clay is removed, it is assumed that no more diamonds 
 will be found there, as there would be nothing to hold them. 
 It is impossible they should exist in the rock itself. Here 
 therefore lies one of the speculative elements of this industry. 
 As yet the bottom has nowhere been reached, except where the 
 rock is shelving inwards. Symptoms have occasionally shown 
 themselves which were supposed to indicate that a bottom 
 would shortly be arrived at, but these have again disappeared, 
 and still greater riches rewarded the diggers. Not only is a 
 better diamond now extracted than at first, but less of the 
 yellow or tawny-coloured stones are dug out. 
 
 The word “ digger ” does not imply that he is the working 
 
196 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 labourer ; in fact to dig is just what tlie “ digger ” does not do. 
 It is be who superintends natives in this work, warily watch¬ 
 ing as far as he can that they do not conceal such stones as 
 show themselves when breaking the clay at the bottom of the 
 miue ; for although by far the larger portion of the diamonds 
 are found in the clay which is taken out of the mine and 
 sorted at the top, yet it naturally will happen (more especially 
 with the larger, and consequently more valuable stones) that 
 some will reveal themselves to the spade and pick at the 
 bottom. This is a fertile cause of many of the thefts which 
 occur. The natives frequently conceal such stones, and there 
 are many persons who make a trade of purchasing diamonds 
 surreptitiously from those who have done so. The prices they 
 pay are not, perhaps, a fraction of the real value; but even at 
 this reduced rate the native who a few months before in the 
 loftiest flight of his imagination could not have conceived the 
 possibility of possessing enough to purchase even one Birming¬ 
 ham musket, might suddenly find himself able to purchase a 
 whole stand of arms. It thus becomes requisite to make 
 the severest enactments, not so much against stealing the 
 diamonds as against inciting others to do so; and cases have 
 occurred in which when the crime has been committed, though 
 the guilty parties have succeeded in reaching Australia, they 
 have been followed and brought back to justice. 
 
 Some few instances have occurred in which harshness and 
 even great cruelty have been exercised towards the natives to 
 cause them to confess their concealment of stones. There was 
 a case of this kind shortly before my first arrival. 
 
 Some persons were accused of beating a Kafir by slow 
 degrees to death ; and so clear did the evidence appear that an 
 offer is stated to have been made by one of the accused of 
 10,000?. for bail, which was indignantly refused. 
 
 The temptation to these poor black fellows is very great, but 
 the profits by the illicit buyers are so large as to be quite irre- 
 
XXI.] 
 
 DIAMOND SMUGGLING IN AMERICA. 
 
 197 
 
 sistible. For instance, a case is well authenticated of a diamond 
 having been sold by a native for 15?., which was again sold for 
 350?., and eventually realised the sum of 1160?. 
 
 These frauds reminded me of an amusing anecdote which I 
 read in an American paper, showing that diamond smuggling 
 is not confined to South Africa. 
 
 A New York Jew, who was reputed to be in the business of 
 smuggling diamonds, used to cross the water on the Cunard 
 line from three to four times a season. Two years ago, in 
 the early part of the season, he was seized upon his arrival 
 and taken to the searcher’s room. Nearly a thousand dollars’ 
 worth of precious stones were found secreted in the lining 
 of his boots. He returned to Liverpool by the same steamer, 
 and four weeks afterwards again landed upon the Company’s 
 wharf on North lliver. He was again seized and subjected 
 to the same rigorous search, but with no success. The Jew 
 took it smilingly and philosophically. When he took his 
 leave, he said, “Better luck next time, gentlemen; I shall 
 go back by the same steamer on business, and when I return 
 you can try it again.” The officers mentally determined 
 if he did they would try it again. Upon inquiry it was 
 found that he really had engaged a return passage, having 
 kept his state-room for that purpose. Two hours before the 
 sailing of the steamer he was driven down to the pier in his 
 carriage, his wife and daughter with him to see him off. 
 When they returned they carried with them over ten thousand 
 dollars’ worth of diamonds which had lain secreted in his 
 state-room during the whole time the steamer had remained 
 in port. Before his return to New York the collector was 
 notified by one of the revenue agents abroad that “Max 
 Fuscher would return with several thousand dollars’ worth 
 of diamonds by the steamer which would leave Liverpool 
 October 25th.” In due time the Jew arrived, and for the 
 third time he was escorted before the searcher. He was 
 
198 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 evidently not prepai'ed for such persistent attention ; he 
 seemed nervous and agitated, and finally attempted to 
 compromise. He was politely informed that that was out 
 of the question. He was again put through the searching 
 process. His pocket-book, which was first investigated, 
 revealed a memorandum showing the purchase of eighteen 
 diamonds of various sizes and prices, amounting in all to 
 about twelve thousand dollars. When this came to light the 
 Jew begged with tears to be allowed to compromise. A deaf 
 ear was turned to his entreaties. His coat was removed, and 
 the lining examined. Nothing there. Then the waistcoat. 
 As the searcher passed his practised fingers along the lining 
 his heart gave a tremendous thump as he recognised the 
 “ feel of something pebbly, like little rows of buttons.” The 
 garments were hastily ripped, a strip of chamois skin with¬ 
 drawn and unrolled, and there lay one, two,three—eighteen! 
 All there. “ You can put on your coat and waistcoat again, 
 Mr. Fuseher,” said the searcher, blandly. “Good day.” 
 Without a word the Jew departed, took a horse-car home, 
 kissed his family, ate a rousing dinner, repaired to the bath¬ 
 room, and after soaking a rather capacious plaster across the 
 small of his back for a few minutes in warm water, peeled it 
 off, and with it “eighteen diamonds of various costs and 
 prices.” What the searcher and collector may have said or 
 thought when they found their seizure to be nothing but 
 clever glass imitations, worth from ten to thirteen cents 
 each, nobody knows. Although the seizure was loudly 
 heralded, the finale was never made public. 
 
 Perhaps there is no property so fluctuating as diamonds. 
 Many instances have been stated of their having increased or 
 diminished in value as much as 50 per cent, in one week; and 
 those who one day perhaps refused three or four hundred 
 pounds for a stone have been glad on the following week to 
 accept the half of it. 
 
PROFITS ON DIAMOND DEALING. 
 
 199 
 
 XXL] 
 
 I insert an extract which was taken from evidence on this 
 subject at Kimberley, where it was stated that 65 per cent, 
 profit on a purchase had been made. 
 
 If the parcel had cost 25,000?. in February or March 1876, 
 witness would consider 13,000?. a fair price in August, when 
 there was no market for them. Told Lejeune that if he had 
 held the diamonds so long as plaintiff did he would not have 
 sold them. Would not have taken over the purchase from 
 defendant because the market was so bad then. 6000?. was 
 not an extraordinary profit on these diamonds at that time. 
 Had frequently made as large profits on diamonds bought 
 in the open market through brokers and diggers. Profits in 
 that August reached 65 per cent. 
 
 Again claims which have been purchased for hundreds of 
 pounds may, from the despair of the digger at finding no return 
 for a long period, be sold for a few pounds, and may scarcely 
 have passed out of hand before successful finds of rich stones 
 may again be made. 
 
 It is indeed extraordinary to be shown a small space, perhaps 
 5 feet square, said to be producing to the owner not less than 
 100?. a week of clear profit. 
 
 One gentleman’s claim was pointed out to me from which it 
 was stated that in two years he had cleared 45,000?. He then 
 sold it, reserving the returns of one-third, from which he was 
 said now to be receiving as his share, 500?. per week. 
 
 It was impossible for me to verify all these accounts, but 
 if the half of what I heard be true it is quite wonderful enough. 
 
 There can be no doubt but that frauds to a considerable 
 extent as regards imitation diamonds have been practised. 
 The French appear to be particularly skilful in the art of 
 mitating them. 
 
 A most cunning device would seem to be practised, which is 
 called the “ doublet fraudit is the combination of a well-cut 
 
200 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 crystal with the facing of a genuine diamond, the latter so thin 
 in itself as to be comparatively worthless ; but when cemented 
 with a colourless cement on to the face of the crystal, it is likely 
 to deceive the best judges and enhances the value 1000 per 
 cent. The file ceases to be a test unless the stone is taken 
 from its setting. Then an application of the steel instrument 
 to the edges resolves any doubt. 
 
 The following is rather an interesting account of the adven¬ 
 tures of a diamond digger, and it may be looked upon as a case 
 of by no means rare occurrence. It is taken from Boyle’s 
 ‘ Savage Life: ’ 
 
 He then went to try his luck at the dry diggings of I)u Toit’s 
 Pan and Bultfontein. He sent his furniture, packed in the 
 canvas of his tent, under the care of a Boer returning to the 
 former place, and, accompanied by his Kafir Charles, he 
 traversed the distance of twenty miles on foot. They walked 
 all night, with the exception of two or three hours’ rest at the 
 halfway-house canteen, and, passing through New Rush 
 Camp, reached Du Toit’s Pan at 5 o’clock in the morning. 
 Aided by a friend, though with some misgivings as to the 
 honesty of the process, he obtained a “jumpable” claim at 
 Bultfontein, where he worked so successfully that on the 1st 
 of April, about three months after he left Pneil, he had 726Z. 
 in hand. He then sold the claim for 274Z., in order to make 
 up 1000A, with which to start on a fresh speculation at New 
 Rush. There with tw r o partners he purchased the right to a 
 three-quarter claim excavated beneath a road, which he was 
 to clear,and build a bridge across in ten days. The road, 
 however, caved in on the second night after the work began, 
 and when the author arrived at the scene of the disaster, 
 some of the diggers began to scramble down to search among 
 the precious debris. Loudly asserting his right to whatever 
 was found in the heap of stuff, he attempted to stop one of 
 the men from descending, and, losing his hold, fell down the 
 
XXI.] 
 
 THE SIMPLE BOER. 
 
 201 
 
 precipice. He received fearful injuries, every bone being 
 apparently broken; and lie remained prostrate for months 
 from the illness that ensued. At great risk he was removed 
 at the end of July to the hotel at Du Toit’s Pan, and attri¬ 
 butes his discovery mainly to the news conveyed to him by 
 one of his partners that, although their right to the claim of 
 the wreck had been disallowed, yet that forty-seven diamonds, 
 valued at 2800?., had been obtained from the stuff already 
 cleared, and what was left in situ. Finally he gives as the 
 sum total of his story: at Pneil he cleared his expenses; at 
 Bultfontein he made just 1000?. with diamonds and claim ; at 
 New Push 1115?. net. His year upon the Diamond Fields, all 
 expenses of travel and illness cleared, returned him 2000?.; 
 but, he significantly added, the price he paid was heavy. 
 
 The advantages which have accrued to the Boers who had 
 settled within an area of fifty miles from Kimberley can hardly 
 be over-estimated. 
 
 Their garden produce, their wood, their game, all find a ready 
 market at excessive prices ; and they have become less simple 
 in their transactions, as the following anecdote will show: 
 
 Mr. Louis Keefer, a dealer in the Du Toit’s Pan Road, has 
 made the Boers who come to Kimberley understand that he 
 gives the highest price for fresh eggs, and that the test of 
 freshness is that when the egg is shaken the inside is solid, 
 and does not shake loosely in the shell. A few mornings 
 since a Boer brought Mr. Keefer seventy-two dozen of “ beau¬ 
 tiful fresh eggs,” and they did look as if fresh laid; the 
 shells were clean and white, every egg was solid, and there 
 was not a shake in it. Mr. Keefer sent round to let his 
 customers know that he had such a prize in fresh eggs. The 
 seventy-two dozen went off like lightning at 6c?. a-piece. 
 Custards were a momentary weakness in the ne ghbourhood. 
 Housekeepers cracked their eggs at the side of their custard 
 
202 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 moulds, but no white or yolk appeared. The farmer, to 
 prevent the eggs shakiug, had boiled them, and, to make 
 them look white and clean, had washed all the shells. Mr. 
 Keefer had purchased seventy-two dozen of hard-boiled eggs, 
 and the Boer had ridden off. 
 
 But it is very requisite for the Boer to be wide-awake in 
 his dealing with some of the Hamburg fraternity. It was told 
 me as a good joke, that, in summing up accounts with a wool- 
 dealer, a Jew, had misreckoned in his calculation ; the Boer 
 pointed this out, verifying what he was saying by producing a 
 ready reckoner. Not in the least taken aback, the Israelite 
 at once said, “ Oh, but yours is a ready reckoner of last year’s 
 date; it is all wrong for this year,” and threw it on one side, 
 upon which the Dutch wool-seller, abashed, went his way in 
 apparent content. 
 
 The prices for European luxuries appeared large, but 
 nothing is too high for the successful digger; 11. per bottle 
 was the charge for champagne, and 5s. for Bass’s beer; but it 
 must be borne in mind that the carriage from Capetown was 
 about 8 d. per pound weight, and that these goods were at least 
 two months on the road. It is a curious fact that fashion in 
 such matters as champagne reigns supreme at Kimberley. I 
 was informed, for example, that no one would drink any but a 
 particular brand. So that if Perrier-Jouet was the rage, you 
 would have to change all the labels on your stock of “ Moet 
 et Chandon.” 
 
 There were two other diggings in the neighbourhood of 
 Kimberley—Old Dr. Beer’s and Du Toit’s Pan; the last named 
 has latterly become very much more profitable. 
 
 The river diggings are totally unlike those I have described, 
 for here diamonds are discovered generally in a sort of blue 
 clay, on the banks of the river. 
 
 It is concluded that they were originally formed in volcanic 
 craters, which, in consequence of some deluge of water, burst 
 
XXI.] 
 
 DIAMOND BAGS. 
 
 203 
 
 their bounds, so that the diamonds have been swept down the 
 river and deposited here and there in the vicinity of the river 
 banks. 
 
 A few days later the whole of my force was encamped in an 
 excellent position at Barkly, on the north side of the river 
 Yaal. This town had formerly been known as Klipdrift, and 
 was the location of the early diamond diggers on the river 
 before the great diamond mine at New Rush had been dis¬ 
 covered. Barkly is perhaps the prettiest spot in Griqualand. 
 The town is placed on the banks of the river, which is here 
 winding and picturesque, and well wooded; and care is now 
 being taken that the timber shall not be shorn off the face of 
 the earth, as it has been throughout the entire country of 
 South Africa, wherever it was possible to do it. 
 
 I accompanied Mr. Palgrave on a visit to the river diggings 
 at Winter Rush, about fifteen miles below the town. It is 
 impossible to say what success attends the exertions of the 
 miners, for with much prudence they refuse to disclose their 
 finds, lest hundreds should rush to the spot to share their good 
 luck. They put on lugubrious faces, but when a question of 
 purchasing a diamond arises, especially by one evidently ill- 
 acquainted with the matter, little bags are instantly produced 
 from the pockets of the diggers, each of which contains one or 
 two stones. 
 
 There appears to be some virtue set upon these bags, for 
 they are beautifully made ; some of skin, others of cloth, worked 
 and braided in fancy colours. 
 
 Stones of four, six, or ten carats are shown ; some pure 
 white, some coloured, and all more or less perfect in shape. They 
 are seldom larger, for as soon as a fine stone has been found, it 
 is beyond the power of the finder not to brag. Thereupon 
 diamond buyers from Kimberley—Jews and Germans—instantly 
 take cart and pursue the possessor, gradually raising their 
 offers, as he is reticent and can afford to refuse them. 
 
204 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Although the price of off-coloured stones and small white 
 ones has very much fallen in the English market, principally 
 in consequence of the large number which have been found, 
 the produce of the New Rush Mine alone being of the average 
 daily value of 3000Z., yet fine white ones, of anything above 
 twenty carats are very rare. 
 
 Peace and tranquillity now appeared to have been restored 
 to the Diamond Fields. The dangerous spirits who had 
 created disturbances had deemed it advisable to leave. They 
 had gone to the Gold Fields in the Transvaal, to Leydenburg, 
 and to Pilgrims’ Rest. Things were settling down. The 
 diggers felt a greater confidence, more especially when they 
 understood that the Governor had strongly recommended to 
 Lord Carnarvon the purchase of the New Rush Mine. 
 
 Passing out of Kimberley by the Western Road, I saw 
 numbers of hulking brawny black fellows idling by the side 
 of the road, their only dress being a linen waist-cloth. 
 
 Some of the officers and men worked hard at digging for 
 diamonds, but although the spots they worked were in close 
 proximity with the holes from which it was known a large 
 number of fine stones had been extracted, their labours were 
 but ill-requited; only one diamond, indeed, being extracted, 
 which was of small size and slightly flawed. 
 
 The health of the troops was excellent. Every attention 
 had been paid to their wants. The best of meat rations, 
 and as good bread as it was possible to provide, had been 
 obtained for them. Not only had they beef and mutton, 
 but occasionally venison, which the Commissariat purchased 
 at 3 d. per lb., in consequence of its plenty, and served as 
 rations. The proximity of the camp to Pebbly Bottom and 
 Five-river Vaal had enabled them to indulge in bathing 
 and swimming, which are agreeable and healthful in this 
 country. 
 
 At Barkly we obtained some beautiful karosses; one was 
 
XXI.] 
 
 AN EX-SERGEANT OF THE 85777. 
 
 205 
 
 presented to me by Mr. Palgrave. The skin was supposed 
 to be a sure protection against rheumatism. It accompanied 
 me through all my future wanderings in South Africa, and, 
 exposed as I was to all the vicissitudes of the climate night 
 and day, I never suffered from a rheumatic attack, though I 
 cannot say that I think the particular nature of the skin had 
 much to do with the matter. 
 
 I now placed the force under the command of Colonel Glyn, 
 and started on a journey of seven hundred miles to visit the 
 troops at the eastern portion of the Cape Colony, on the boun¬ 
 daries of the Kei river. The entire expenses and detention of 
 the troops during the six months amounted to the sum of 19,6007. 
 
 On the 14th of July we left on an expedition to the 
 hunting grounds, in a country between the Yaal and the 
 Sand river, where we were assured that we should meet with 
 large herds—blessbuck, wildebeest, springbuck, and perhaps 
 with a quagga. 
 
 We encamped at -, a farmhouse belonging to a 
 
 settler, formerly a sergeant of the 85th Regiment. By his 
 industry he had gathered together a considerable amount of 
 property—houses in Queenstown, and a fine farm of six thou¬ 
 sand acres in the Free State, with cattle, horses, and sheep. 
 His property cannot be computed at less than 60 007., and per¬ 
 haps it is worth a great deal more. His graphic explanation of 
 how be obtained it is summed up in a single sentence. He 
 said, “ Any man can get along here who does not drink.” 
 
 On our drive this day we met with the original owner of the 
 New Rush Mine, who had sold it about the year 1872 for 
 30007. In 1875 the Government gave 100,0 007. for it. He 
 was driving an ox-waggon. His manners were by no means 
 courteous, and they did not improve upon further acquaintance. 
 
 The night was very cold, and after our long ride and drive 
 we were anxious to get our late dinner, but a singular accident 
 delayed it. When it was about half cooked, my .Mussulman 
 
206 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 cook discovered that lie had lit his fire upon a grave. Nothing 
 that our English servants could say would prevent him from 
 putting it out and recommencing his culinary arrangement in 
 another place. He affirmed that the spirit of the departed 
 would assuredly rise up in the night, to avenge the sacrilege, 
 and to give us an indigestion. Nearly an hour was wasted in 
 deference to his principles. 
 
 In the morning we moved on to Quagga Fontein. This 
 is a fine farm, of about eighteen thousand acres. Twenty 
 years since it is stated to have been sold for a span (or 
 pair) of oxen. Now it is worth at least 7000Z. In the 
 garden near the house, and where the land is plentifully 
 irrigated, a large amount of green forage is grown. It was 
 estimated that a profit was derived from about twenty to thirty 
 acres of this land of more than 500 1. per annum. The 
 forage is chiefly used for horses, and is the more valuable as a 
 good market for it is readily found in Bloemfontein, to which 
 the farm is so near. 
 
 Mr. Chatfield, the owner, had answered to the call when 
 volunteei’S were demanded by the State in the Basuto cam¬ 
 paign. He had been attached to a command. He had a 
 narrow escape of his life in action. One night near the Caledon 
 river, when asleep in his small patrol tent, a short distance 
 from his companions, the camp was surprised. He was 
 suddenly awakened by the most diabolical shouts, his tent 
 being rolled over him, and half-a-dozen assegais stabbed into 
 his body. Though weak from the loss of blood, he managed 
 to crawl out of his tent, armed with his revolver, and fired into 
 a black mass of men. Thus attacked they gave way, and he 
 staggered into camp. The shot alarmed the whole command, 
 who were now fully sensible of their danger. They rallied, and, 
 firing in their turn, killed twenty-five Kafirs, thus escaping the 
 penalty of their neglect. 
 
 After the war a Kafir told Mr. Chatfield that they were so 
 
XXL] 
 
 HAY-WASTING. 
 
 207 
 
 numerous that they could have destroyed every white man, 
 but that seeing him walk away after being stabbed in at least 
 a dozen places, they thought that his party were spirits and 
 not men, so that they were glad to leave them alone. 
 
 At Quagga Fontein we saw a little imp not four feet high, 
 one of the diminutive race of Bosjesmans. He was said to be 
 perfectly wonderful on horseback, clinging to a horse like a 
 monkey. The universal forage that is given in South Africa 
 is oats, or barley straw with the ear on. Our evening meal for 
 the team of four horses was charged 22s. 
 
 Although hundreds of thousands of acres of fine grass land 
 are to be seen on all sides, no attempt whatever is made to 
 convert it into hay, but it is always allowed to go to waste. 
 It would now be too expensive to save it, as the labour of the 
 mowers could not be had for less than 10s. per day to each 
 man. In a few years, when emigration has filled up this 
 country, the mowing-machine will soon bring this valuable 
 crop to some use. 
 
 At 4 p.m. we reached Moi-mais-Fontein, or the Spring of 
 the Pretty Maiden. It was here that a fight had taken place 
 about a year before between the Free State police and some 
 Basutos. These Kafirs had been paid for their labour at the 
 Diamond Fields, not in money but in firearms. With these 
 they had started to march across the Free States, to their own 
 country. It being contrary to the law for a native to enter 
 the Free State with guns, the police determined to disarm 
 them. The natives resisted ; fighting ensued, and some were 
 killed. The affair gave rise to some ill-feeling between the 
 Government of the Free State and the Cape Colony. In 
 my opinion no blame could be attached to the Free State. 
 Their law prohibits the natives from carrying arms, and the 
 wisdom of such a prohibition has been most clearly shown. 
 The Free State had therefore a perfect right to insist on its 
 enactment being respected. 
 
208 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 On the plains we met some huge herds of game, and had 
 splendid sport. On one occasion I wounded a buck, which 
 soon lagged behind the rest, and if left for a short time 
 would no doubt have laid down, so that, when stiff, it could 
 easily have been approached and despatched. But to my 
 amusement I saw Johnny, our Mussulman cook, following him 
 with desperate speed, crying out, “Master no fire!” Poor 
 Johnny was too good a Mussulman to eat any meat unless 
 it had been killed by a Mussulman, and in the name of 
 the Prophet; and although plenty had reigned in the camp 
 for some days, and the Kafirs were actually gorged, he had 
 religiously abstained from tasting a morsel until, as on this 
 occasion, he could kill it himself. 
 
 We were always glad to see the Dutch farmers of the 
 district, and entertain them with the same fare which we en¬ 
 joyed. This day two of them joined us. Although the night was 
 bitterly cold, they did not seem to be in the least incommoded, 
 though they brought nothing with them but the clothes they 
 rode in, not even a blanket to cover them when they lay on 
 the ground under our cart. 
 
 I have often remarked the hardihood of these Boers, and 
 whether for bearing cold, heat, or deprivation of food, or for 
 power to continue in the saddle, I look upon them as quite 
 equal to the Cossack of Russia, and very far superior to him in 
 the use of the rifle. 
 
 It is not surprising that they should generally be very good 
 shots. It was not in taking aim that they showed their supe¬ 
 riority, but in judging distances. The art of judging distances 
 is one of the cardinal points of good rifle-shooting. Under any 
 circumstances it is most difficult to acquire; in wide extending 
 plains it is tenfold more so. 
 
 I found it expedient to have the fore-sight of my rifle pro¬ 
 tected by a ring, after the manner of a wind-gauge ring, but 
 fixed, through which I aimed. The back-sight I had constructed 
 
XXI.] 
 
 FARMHOUSES IN THE COUNTRY. 
 
 20!) 
 
 after the old Dutch model; a separate sight, very legibly 
 marked, for each distance, which I could alter in one moment, 
 as the game advanced or receded. The advantage of these 
 expedients in rapid firing at game cannot be too highly esti¬ 
 mated. The hunting-knives which we bring from home are far 
 too large, and the blade too long, rendering them cumbersome 
 and causing them frequently to be lost. Experience assures 
 me that the most useful hunting-knife is that which has a blade 
 four inches long, very stout at the back, and made of course of 
 the very best steel. This should run into a sheath, the handle 
 being protected from falling out by a loop. 
 
 Even with the greatest precaution, we continually lost our 
 knives during the severe gallops of four or five miles we took 
 over the rough country. Nothing is so annoying as to find 
 oneself beside a wounded animal, and unable to put an end to 
 its misery. One out of every three or four sportsmen should 
 be provided with a small, strong, wide-bladed axe, fastened on 
 the saddle. It is most useful for cutting up the game and 
 enabling it to be more easily carried. 
 
 In the farmhouses we were always very kindly received. 
 They are built almost invariably upon one model : a large 
 parlour with a sleeping-room on either flank, and a kitchen in 
 the rear. One room is set apart as a guest chamber, which 
 was invariably given over to our use. We were welcome to a 
 place at the board at each of the daily meals; but as we had 
 our own stores and coals, we preferred to accept the use of the 
 room, and to invite the owner to dine with us, which he generally 
 accepted. On leaving, payment would have offended the 
 master ; but we usually paid a liberal price for all we purchased 
 in forage, fowls, &c., and as we were a large party, the payment 
 generally amounted to a considerable sum. 
 
 On the following morning we had some tremendous gallops 
 after the wildebeest, and brought down several. Never shall 
 I forget the death-struggles of this animal or the wicked 
 
 p 
 
210 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 attempts which he makes to drive his horns into anyone that 
 approaches him. He stands with his cloven feet thrust firmly 
 to support his body, and tosses his shaggy head from right to 
 left, his eyes gleaming with fire, while torrents of blood rush 
 from his mouth. 
 
 No sooner is a deer wounded than the quick-sighted vultures 
 hover over the poor animal. Should he lie down exhausted, 
 they wheel in circles above him, collecting from distances quite 
 beyond the sight of man, and with a rapidity quite incredible. 
 By watching the spot round which they hover, the position of 
 dead game may be discovered, but delay is fatal, as they collect 
 in such numbers and are so greedy, that nothing but the rem¬ 
 nants in the shape .of' bones and horns will remain upon the 
 ground a very short time after they have commenced their 
 operations. 
 
 In the afternoon a Kafir boy brought a letter from Boshof, 
 fully thirty miles distant over the hill, and appeared very well 
 satisfied with the half-crown which was given him. He imme¬ 
 diately set off on his return home, taking, however, a different 
 route for the purpose of visiting a canteen which lay twelve 
 miles distant. 
 
 Before leaving Boshof an amusing story was told me of a 
 circumstance that happened there shortly before our visit. 
 
 A Dutch wedding party was to take place on a large scale. 
 Invitations had been sent far and wide, and the number of 
 guests was great. Old, young, married and single, rich and 
 poor, were welcome, so long as there were no English. For 
 miles the farmers came in their carts. The wives were brought 
 that there might be chaperones, and the nurses and babies 
 could not be left behind. A room upstairs was appropriated to 
 ihe babies, who were put to bed, while the mothers and nurses 
 danced. 
 
 During the dance some mischievous young men, aided 
 peihaps by some of the girls, went upstairs and changed all the 
 
XXL] 
 
 CHANGING BABIES. 
 
 211 
 
 babies, not only removing them from one cot into another, but 
 taking off their clothes and putting the dresses of some on the 
 bodies of others. When the parents and nurses had well danced, 
 and eaten and drank, they sleepily took up their children and 
 started in the night to go home. It was when the morning 
 sun arose on the Veldt, and they became able to see more 
 clearly, that they discovered the dreadful trick which had been 
 perpetrated. It is said that the exchanging of babies from one 
 district farm to another took eleven days’ hard work, and that 
 
 even still there are two young-who are suspected not to 
 
 be the children of the parents who own them. 
 
 While speaking of the eccentricities of the young men of 
 the Free States, I may mention another anecdote of their 
 doings:— 
 
 There were a good many people made April fools of on the first 
 of last month, but the worst case heard of was that of a 
 cleaned and trussed monkey which was sent to a bachelor’s 
 hall, and eaten by several new-comers under the assurance, 
 as per accompanying letter, that it was a bluebok. They 
 spoke highly of the flavour of South African game. 
 
 I then quitted the Free States and proceeded to Cradock. 
 The surrounding country appeared to be some of the finest 
 grazing land in the colony ; but it is reported to be over¬ 
 stocked with sheep, and in consequence a great deal of disease 
 exists amongst the flocks. Professor Bandford, in his report, 
 says:— 
 
 The deteriorated veld is overstocked, and the impoverishment of 
 veld and stock gees on together. So we are going downhill 
 at an ever-accelerating pace, and using up our resources in a 
 most thriftless manner. Not content with using up, we take 
 pains to rob the soil of its proper nourishment, and so prevent, 
 as fair as we can, the natural process of recovery. The dung 
 which would give life to the soil brings death to the animals, 
 
 p 2 
 
212 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [CHAr. 
 
 yet instead of spreading it abroad on the land, by our system of 
 heading the cattle we pile it up in sleeping grounds for the 
 sheep. When rain falls, this sleeping ground becomes a fetid 
 dung-bath, and the poor sheep may be seen standing up to 
 their very bodies in slushy, fetid matter. Those that, weary 
 with the long day’s roaming, lie down, saturate their fleeces 
 with the filth, and for days they carry about their bodies 
 
 a load of their own duns;. 
 
 ° . 
 
 The Professor vehemently asks, How in the name of goodness 
 can health be expected in animals exposed to such “influ¬ 
 ences ? ” The dung heap which forms their bed is an excel¬ 
 lent nursery for the parasitic creatures that seek the enfeebled 
 and sickly body. So by violating the order of nature we ac¬ 
 complish three distinct and serious evils—we starve the veld, 
 predispose the sheep to disease, and encourage parasites. 
 
 All these evils, no doubt, arise from the system of herding 
 the sheep every night in kraals ; but it is easier to condemn this 
 system than to alter it. 
 
 Where the entire face of the country is open and undivided 
 it would be almost impossible to fence, more especially where 
 wood is in general so scarce. Not only is iron wire very expen¬ 
 sive, but European labour, by which it must be put up, cannot 
 be procured much under 10s. per day. How, then, can it be 
 expected that the sheep should be fenced in ? Again, in the 
 same localities, many sheep are affected with fluke ; these sheep 
 appear fat, but soon fall off. 
 
 The natives frequently own good herds. Their power of 
 counting the sheep is quite extraordinary : they can count a 
 thousand sheep when starting out of kraal without a mistake, 
 but many of them are great thieves, and their robberies are a 
 serious loss to the farmer, from which it is loudly complained 
 that the law as administered is by no means a sufficient protec¬ 
 tion. This is a farmer’s complaint. 
 
XXL] 
 
 A CAPE “FINNYGAN.’ 
 
 213 
 
 Allow me to introduce a neighbour of mine, Mr. Zete:— 
 
 For years Zete has set the law at defiance. A paternal 
 government has located him in the very best place for the 
 profitable exercise of his profession. I am afraid to state 
 liow many times Zete has been caught and discharged. I 
 myself, with some other farmers, saw thirty-eight stolen 
 sheep in Zete’s kraal, all marked with paint most unmistak¬ 
 ably. They were claimed by a farmer, and were stolen from 
 him while on the track. Zete was tried and acquitted, the 
 sheep not having been found about his person. 
 
 He is now in again for eleven sheep, but we all expect he will 
 escape, as usual. I have frequently said to this man’s 
 neighbours, “ Why do you not rid yourselves of such a fellow, 
 who brings trouble on the whole of you?” “What’s the 
 use?’’they reply; “ we have caught him stealing over and 
 over again, but you English let him go again.” The Kafirs 
 tell me that, whenever Zete has committed a theft, he prays 
 to a tree. This tree he calls by his father’s name. After 
 this he chews some “bosjes,” and is then law proof. But 
 should he be taken his mother, who is a witch, stands in the 
 gateway of his kraal, and calls upon his name. She then 
 sends one of her sons, who carries a bush in his hand, aloug 
 the King William’s Town road. He also calls out, “ Bawo yisa 
 n’duja ku kumbula.” Next morning Mr. Zete is in the 
 bosom of his family again. 
 
 The Kafirs firmly believe all this: I don’t believe it myself. I 
 account for Zete’s success in another way. He must have 
 gained possession of one of “ Finnygan’s ” cast-off wigs, and 
 has thus become so saturated with Cape criminal law that he 
 can bid defiance to his enemies. 
 
 Now, I would ask, of what use are laws, and, I may add, 
 judges, when a conviction cannot be arrived at in such cases 
 as I have cited ? The law at the Cape, which is com¬ 
 pounded of English and of Uutch-Norman law, is, it must be 
 
214 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XXI. 
 
 owned, very technical, and lias hardly kept pace even with 
 English tardy improvements. 
 
 Although the neighbourhood appears to be more pastural 
 than agricultural, its soil has great capabilities. Potatoes 
 flourish admirably and grow most rapidly, and pumpkins 
 attain an enormous size. I saw one of more than 80 lbs. 
 weight grown in this neighbourhood. 
 
 There is also a pith which is taken from the underground 
 skin of the thorn. It is a quarter the weight of cork, and is 
 one of the lightest solid substances known; a shoe sole had 
 been made of it for a little boy, one of whose legs was shorter 
 than the other, and helmets that have been made from it have 
 worn well. 
 
 Cradock appears to be one of the most rising towns in 
 the Cape Colony. There is a fine church there, which must 
 have cost a considerable sum. The streets are broad, and the 
 situation of the town is very good. The position of Cradock, 
 as regards South Africa generally, is central, and it is by no 
 means impossible that it should become the political capital of 
 the future Confederated Colonies. Railroads, one of which is 
 already approaching it, will place it in direct communication 
 with Port Elizabeth, and ere many years it will be in communi¬ 
 cation by rail with both east and west. 
 
( 215 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE LOVEDALE INSTITUTE. 
 
 We next came to Alice, near which the Lovedale Institution 
 is situated. I visited this with very great satisfaction. 
 
 Cart and waggon building, and carpentering were progressing 
 satisfactorily, while the more experienced men were employed 
 in type-setting and printing, and telegraphy. 
 
 It is very much to be desired that mission stations should 
 be more generally established on these principles, and that 
 reading and singing the Psalms should not be the beginning 
 and end of education of black men. 
 
 The account of a visit to Lovedale, which I read in one of 
 the daily papers, is so interesting that I trust I shall be 
 pardoned for inserting it here :— 
 
 After kindly welcoming me to Lovedale, he invited me to have 
 a look over the place, and here it was that all the argu¬ 
 ments that I had prepared vanished, as chaff before the 
 wind. For one of the first observations that the Doctor made 
 
 was this: “Our object, Mr.-, is to teach the native to 
 
 work; work he must, a certain portion of the day, or go. 
 We cannot afford to keep idlers here; lazy fellows soon must 
 leave us. We endeavour to civilise, and teach them to fear 
 God at the same time, and hope that some at least may turn 
 out useful men and women.” I could scarcely avoid 
 applauding the Doctor’s sentiments with a hearty “hear, 
 hear,” having all the ground knocked from under me. I 
 proceeded to examine the workings of the institution with 
 
216 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [ChAI>. 
 
 less prejudice. The Doctor leading the way, first we entered 
 the printing compartment. Here was one white man and 
 several black boys hard at work at the press, running off the 
 ‘ Christian Express.’ They appear to be well up to their work, 
 the type being clear, and equal to any I have seen. The 
 next was the telegraph office ; this is worked by two black 
 boys. The Doctor remarking, “ Of course you understand the 
 
 working of the telegraph, Mr.-?” The “ Oh yes ” came 
 
 out without thinking, and I felt foolish while the Doctor was 
 explaining. He, however, was generous enough not to notice 
 my blushes. 
 
 Then we examined the carpenters’ shop, where the Doctor told 
 me there were twenty-four natives learning the trade. Then 
 came the waggon-makers’, where eleven boys were at work. 
 Blacksmiths and farriers came next, where an equal number 
 of boys were being instructed. While thus employed, the 
 strains of music reached our ears, and in answer to my inquiry 
 as to its meaning, I was told that the brass band was prac¬ 
 tising, having been asked to head a procession the next day. 
 The Good Templars were about to celebrate a something or 
 another, and intended marching through the town, headed by 
 the band. The band consists of native lads, with the excep¬ 
 tion of four white boys. As far as I could judge, they per¬ 
 formed correctly. While they were blowing like fury a 
 Good Templars’ march, the Doctor caught me by the sleeve, 
 and took me rather hurriedly outside, just in time to witness 
 about a hundred native boys passing with their picks and 
 hoes returning from work, the Doctor remarking, “ It’s not 
 all band-playing, you see, sir.” I was astonished as well as 
 delighted, and could not help wondering at the mistaken 
 ideas many have of the Lovedale Seminary. We next 
 examined the dormitories. Here my entertainer remarked, 
 “ Every article of bedding is found by the boys, only the bed¬ 
 steads do we provide.” I expected to have to bolt out with 
 
XXII.] 
 
 THE LOVED ALE INSTITUTION. 
 
 217 
 
 my handkerchief to my nose, but what was my surprise to 
 find everything as clean and sweet as one could desire ! Now 
 we entered into the dining-room, where supper was preparing. 
 Long tables were laid for three hundred boys. Each boy was 
 provided with a tin mug, ditto plate, and spoon. The supper 
 consisted of maize, or mealies, and churn-milk, with bread. 
 These boys are not stuffed with meat ; having to work mode¬ 
 rately hard, they are blessed with a good appetite, and Dr. 
 Stewart considers mealies and milk good wholesome food, and 
 less expensive than meat. The bread-cutter amused me. It 
 is on the same principle as a lever tobacco-cutter, but on a 
 larger scale, and works with a spring; a loaf is nipped up in 
 slices of equal thickness in less than no time. The last peep 
 was at the kitchen. Here were five to seven large soap pots, 
 boiling as for dear life, and I was about to exclaim, “ Why, 
 Doctor, do you go in for soap-boiling ? ” but I was stopped by 
 that gentleman remarking, “Three and a half muids of maize 
 are used daily, so large pots are necessary.” It was now 
 time to retire. Thanking the Doctor heartily for his kind¬ 
 ness and trouble in showing me over the establishment and 
 pointing out all the minute details of the working, I left 
 convinced that the institution ought to have every support 
 and encouragement, and I trust that some—ah ! many—will, 
 after perusing this short and imperfect, yet true description 
 of the workings of the establishment, forward Dr. Stewart 
 subscriptions in 51. notes and upwards, to enable him to carry 
 on this praiseworthy institution. I may mention here that 
 all the boys pay a fee of from 51. per annum and upwards, as 
 their circumstances will allow. Still the establishment is not 
 quite self-supporting, and a little help from outsiders would 
 be thankfully received. The buildings also require enlarging, 
 for which purpose funds are required. 
 
218 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE ANNEXATION OF THE TRANSVAAL. 
 
 I have shown how requisite it was that South Africa should 
 become one united dominion. 
 
 In 1876 circumstances occurred in the Transvaal Republic 
 which caused a deep agitation throughout the whole colony. 
 Mr. Burgers, the President of that Republic, had visited Eng¬ 
 land, and other European countries. He had gone there with 
 a desire to make the Transvaal Republic better known, and 
 to obtain funds to make a railway from its nearest port, 
 Delagoa Bay. 
 
 He was full of confidence that he had gained the good 
 wishes of Holland and of Portugal, and appeared quite inde¬ 
 pendent of the help of England or of her good opinion; indeed, 
 lie seemed rather to pride himself upon this independence, and 
 returned to the seat of his Presidency full of hope for the 
 future. 
 
 There is one peculiarity in the institutions of the Transvaal 
 which has deeply affected the progress of that country—the 
 custom, which had become law, of granting to the son of every 
 settler a farm on attaining the age of sixteen years, or there¬ 
 abouts. Certainly the country was wild and extended, and the 
 people few, but the lands which the Boers could at all lay 
 claim to, or protect, were not large enough to allow the 
 Republic to give every male in the State a plot of land 
 nominally 6000 acres, but averaging from 6000 to 12,000. 
 Consequently, the only resource open to the authorities was to 
 
XXIII.] HOW THE TRANSVAAL TROUBLES BEGAN. 219 
 
 grant allotments on the lands which the natives declared they 
 had not alienated; when, therefore, those who had received 
 Government grants attempted to settle upon them, they 
 were repulsed, and quarrels and bloodshed were often the 
 result. 
 
 The only way in which the President had been able to 
 obtain money for carrying out his pet scheme, the Delagoa 
 Railway, had been by granting concessions of land to those who 
 would advance the capital. 
 
 When, therefore, the natives resisted the attempts of the 
 Boers to settle on the lands which had been allotted to them, 
 the President and his advisers were compelled either to re¬ 
 linquish altogether the right which they had assumed, or to 
 insist upon it by force of arms. 
 
 For many years the Boers, though occasionally they had 
 suffered in bloody reprisals, had been accustomed to carry all 
 before them. 
 
 With their double-barrelled guns and the long roer they 
 had terrified the savage armed only with the assegai, and 
 when they had met with opposition, had quickly subdued it, 
 after the manner of Cortes and Pizarro, putting the men to 
 death, and carrying the women and young children to their 
 farms to work as “ apprentices.” 
 
 Mr. Rosalt remarked that— 
 
 It was a singular circumstance that, in the different colonial 
 Kafir wax-s, as also in the Basuto wars, one did not hear of 
 destitute children being “ found ” by the commanders, and 
 asked how it was that every petty commander that took the 
 field in this Republic invariably found numbers of destitute 
 children? .... 
 
 Be gave it as his opinion that the present system of apprentice¬ 
 ship was an essential cause of our frequent hostilities with 
 the natives. 
 
220 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Mr. Jan Talyard said— 
 
 Children were forcibly taken from their mothers, and were 
 then called destitute and apprenticed. 
 
 Mr. Daniel Van Yooren was heard to say— 
 
 If they had to clear the country, and could not have the 
 children they had found, he would shoot them. 
 
 They did not make slaves of these children, as it would 
 have been contrary to the convention which had been signed 
 on the Sand River with the British Commissioner, but they 
 “apprenticed” them for terms, say forty years or so, to work 
 on their farms. 
 
 Mr. Burgers and the Government of the Transvaal Republic 
 continued allotting the lands belonging to the natives until at 
 last they roused a determined opposition, and the Kafirs took 
 to arms. Commandoes were now assembled, and marched to 
 the disputed territory to which the Republic laid claim, which 
 iu this instance was Secocoeni’s country. 
 
 Secocoeni’s city, as his Tnduna loves to call it, is situated 
 about seventy miles from Pilgrims’ Rest, in the Drakensberg 
 range, upon a triangular flat surrounded by rocky hills, not 
 higher than those round Pilgrims’ Rest, and in some places 
 much lower, but rugged, steep, and very difficult of ascent. 
 These hills are fortified by thick stone walls, one behind the 
 other, and divided into sections or squares by narrow footpaths 
 forming the ingress and egress for the women to the laagers 
 erected on the summit of the hills. I cannot better explain 
 the plan of these stone walls, than by comparing it to a pew in 
 a church or amphitheatre. The entrance to the city consists 
 of two passes or ports, one approached by a footpath, which 
 is barricaded at a deep gully which it crosses, the other 
 protected on a rocky hill, fortified on each side by stone 
 walls and a thick prickly-pear hedge, the gaps of which have 
 been strengthened by camel-thorn trees, and with a gate closed 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 SECOCOENI AND THE BOERS. 
 
 221 
 
 every night. The city itself is surrounded, by a camel-thorn 
 hedge about six feet high, with only one gate, also closed every 
 night. Everything was well looked to at Secocoeni’s. The 
 women left the city for the laagers on the hills, where plenty of 
 mealies and corn were stowed away. About four thousand head 
 of cattle were sent into the ravines and kloofs round the city, 
 also a great number of goats. The rest of the cattle were sent 
 across Olifant’s River. Watches were placed by night and 
 day on the hills close to the Commando, which was not more 
 than 1000 or 1200 strong. 
 
 Secocoeni said— 
 
 I think I will beat the Boers and burn Leydenburg, and all the 
 homesteads down to the Comatie; but if unfortunately I 
 should get beaten, I shall follow at once the example set by 
 the late chief Moshesh, and apply to the great chief at the 
 Cape to become a British subject. I would sooner give my 
 country to the English than one inch of ground to the Boers. 
 
 Secocoeni had no dislike to the English, but quite the reverse, 
 as the following message, which was sent by him to the Gold 
 Fields, shows:— 
 
 Secocoeni has heard that the Englishmen at the Gold Fields 
 are building laagers; and he has also heard from Johannes’ 
 men that Englishmen fired at his boys at Kruger’s Post, that 
 the Englishmen at the Gold Fields are afraid of an attack 
 from his boys; but he can assure them that that is not his 
 intention, and that he has given strict orders to his people 
 not to molest the Englishmen, nor to take anything belonging 
 
 to them. Secocoeni has asked-to tell the Englishmen 
 
 to come and trade with him ; he will send ten men to the 
 boundary to bring them safely to his place, where they will 
 get protection. Powder and lead they must not bring, as he 
 has plenty ; but they must bring plenty of blankets and 
 picks for his boys. Mealies he cannot promise them, but he 
 
222 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 lias money ; for the mealies his boys must save, as the war 
 won’t allow them to plough this year. Now Secocoeni 
 regrets to hear that his boys have captured two waggons 
 belonging to Englishmen; it is against his orders, and if the 
 owners will apply to him after the war he will repay them. 
 Now that Secocoeni has said all he w'ants to say, he will also 
 say this—that he loves the English at the Gold Fields, and 
 he hopes they also love him. 
 
 These w'ere not the feelings of Secocoeni only, but of every 
 chief in the country. 
 
 Many of them said— 
 
 We regard the Queen as our mother; we are children of the 
 Queen. Come then, and relieve us from our tyrants. 
 
 Now that they were so extensively armed, even better than 
 the Boers, they felt that their day of revenge had arrived, a 
 day which they by no means consider yet to have gone by. 
 The result of this Commando was as follows :— 
 
 The Boers attacked Secocoeni’s Mountain in two wings. The 
 whole army numbered 2900 men. Of one wing only 40 men 
 exposed themselves to fire, and all the commandants and officers 
 of this wing were subsequently fined 51 . each for cowardice. 
 
 The attack on the mountain was repulsed, two Irishmen 
 being killed, and some six or seven wounded. Not a Kafir 
 was to be seen, all being hidden behind the rocks. After the 
 repulse the Boers refused to fight any longer. They w-ent in 
 a body to the President and announced their determination 
 to go home. The President is said to have asked his men to 
 shoot him, and not let him survive their disgrace. 
 
 About the same time that Secocoeni’s position was assailed 
 the Boers had attacked Johannes’ Kraal, a native town about 
 twenty-five miles from Leydenburg. They had shown a 
 great dislike to approach the fortified position, and were 
 accused of screening themselves behind some rising ground, 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 THE FIGHT AT JOHANNES' KRAAL. 
 
 223 
 
 while the Amaswasi a tribe that were friendly and were assist¬ 
 ing them against Secocoeni, bore the assault. An account was 
 given of this action, from which the subjoined is an extract:— 
 
 The following is the result of the action at Johannes. Killed, 
 47 men, 19 women, 13 children ; and wounded, 16 men, 4 
 women. I’ve gathered the following from Johannes, who 
 sent for me to see if I could do anything to his wounds. I 
 arrived at his place about ten or twelve hours after the action 
 from Steel port River. He says, “ We were taken unawares. 
 We saw the Boers approaching, but not the Zwasies. The 
 women asked me if they should go into the cave, but I told 
 them they were only the Boers coming, and they are sure to 
 run away at the first shot. At about three thousand yards 
 from mv place they came to a standstill, and I gave orders 
 to my men to go and meet them, which we did, when the 
 Zw'asies, who were behind us on the hill, charged the laager. 
 We rushed back to the laager, but they came in such 
 numbers over the walls, that after our first shots were 
 fired we had not time to reload, but had to fight with the 
 butts of our muskets. The Zwasies fought well, but the 
 Boers were afraid to come on. They stopped where we left 
 them.” Johannes got a stab from an assegai in the right 
 breast, and another through the groin of the left leg. He 
 died two days after. Before he died he called his brother 
 and said, “ I am going to die, I am thankful I do not die by 
 the hands of these cowardly Boers, but by the hands of a 
 black and courageous nation like myself. You are now chief 
 here; promise me that you will never give up this piece of 
 ground, but that you will die defending it.” His brother said 
 these words : “I promise you the Boers shall get this ground 
 after they have killed me.” Johannes said, “ That is good.” 
 He then took leave of his people, told his brother to read his 
 Bible, and expired. The Boers and Azawasi were repulsed. 
 
224 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The truth is, that the Boers had become conceited from 
 their constant successes. Hitherto they had only been opposed 
 by natives armed with assegais. When they found themselves 
 confronted by the old Enfield rifle, and other far shooting 
 muskets, which had been sold to the black man in return for 
 his labour at the diamond mines, they discovered, to their cost, 
 that it was no joke to attack even the most moderately fortified 
 place defended with these weapons. 
 
 Men from the Commandoes poured into Pretoria, pursued 
 by the Kafirs of Johannes and Secocoeni; and the Amaswasi, 
 who had borne the brunt of the fighting at Johannes’ kraal, 
 were so enraged at the cowardice of the Boers, that they 
 threatened to burn Leydenburg, and were only appeased by 
 presents from the various stores in that place. 
 
 At this crisis the Yolksraad assembled, and, quite incapable 
 of action, they disputed as to the causes of the failure of the 
 Commandoes; and when asked to raise a fund to carry on the 
 war, pointedly refused until the reason for every penny of the 
 expenditure had been fully explained to them. Some said 
 that no attack should have been made; others that Secocoeni 
 was a rebel who ought to be punished, while others declared 
 that he w r as an independent chief, and that his country did not 
 belong to the Bepublic at all. 
 
 At this juncture a despatch arrived from Lord Carnarvon, 
 who had received information of some of the proceedings in the 
 Transvaal, and who was justly apprehensive that they would 
 lead to very serious evils to the whole of South Africa. 
 
 In the meantime the most revolting accounts of the doings 
 of those composing the Commandoes (the Filibusters) w'ere 
 being sent down to Cape Town. No doubt many of them were 
 exaggerated, but they impressed the public with the justice of 
 Lord Carnarvon’s remarks, and with the necessity for inter¬ 
 ference. 
 
 Two specimens of these reports are here subjoined :— 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 CRUELTY OF ERASMUS. 
 
 225 
 
 Yon Schlickmann lias since fallen fighting bravely ; but there 
 is no longer the slightest doubt as to the murder of the two 
 women and the child at Steelport by the direct order of 
 Schlickmann; and in the attack on the kraal, near which 
 these women were captured (or some attack about that 
 period), he ordered his men to cut the throats of all the 
 wounded. This is no mere report. The statements are 
 based on the evidence not alone of Kafirs, but of whites who 
 were present. 
 
 There is a field cornet who recently visited a kraal of friendly 
 natives, when lie off-saddled and partook of the hospitality 
 of the people, the chief giving him a goat to slaughter. 
 Thirteen natives were commandeered from this kraal, and 
 accompanied an expedition commanded by Abel Erasmus. 
 On the third day the men were told by Erasmus to go home, 
 as he intended returning ; and, after they were deprived of 
 the ammunition in their possession, they went back to their 
 kraal. Not suspecting any danger, they were sleeping in 
 fancied security, when about dawn the next morning Erasmus 
 attacked their kraal, killed three old men who were sitting 
 round a fire, wounded a man and a woman, and took six 
 women and eighteen children prisoners. He also captured a 
 number of cattle, and threatened, if more were not given, to 
 kill the chief and all his people. It is this same Erasmus 
 who, according to the telegram we publish to-day, has 
 attacked another friendly chief, and shed more innocent 
 blood. 
 
 Many cases were freely mentioned in the newspapers of the 
 day, which, if one hundredth part of them were true, would put 
 upon England a positive obligation to annex the Transvaal. I 
 quote a few of them :— 
 
 On the 25th of August a party went out from Steelport to 
 scour the surrounding mountains. The party on their way 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 to a kraal met some women who had been for mealies. The 
 first was quite a young woman, who was first wounded, and 
 then shot through the head as she lay upon the ground. 
 Whether any more women were killed before the horsemen 
 entered the kraal we cannot say. Several were killed in the 
 kraal. The number of ten has been given by a camp Kafir. 
 
 Two women were caught outside and sent to the rear in charge 
 of two Kafirs. They were questioned as to whose the cattle 
 were, and were promised that their lives would be spared on 
 condition that they told. They gave the information required, 
 but the filibusters did not overtake the cattle. 
 
 The two women were taken to the Steelport laager, and a 
 council of war was held as to what should be done with 
 them. It was decided that they should be set at liberty, as 
 two other women had been previously. They were accord¬ 
 ingly sent out under an escort. They were accompanied by 
 two of the camp Kafirs. When they arrived at the river, 
 one of the chief filibusters is said to have told the Kafirs, 
 “Now you are to kill these women, and to know they are 
 dead I must hear the shots.” The women were accordingly 
 followed. One of them put her hands together and besought 
 the Kafirs, whose intention she appears to have divined, not 
 to shoot her. She had a baby on her back. 
 
 Supplication, however, was of no avail. The man levelled his 
 gun. The ball went through the baby’s head and into the 
 woman’s shoulder. 
 
 The other woman was shot by the other man through the back, 
 and after they had stabbed their victims they returned and 
 showed the blood upon their assegais. 
 
 There was, we hear, great outcry amongst the more decent 
 men of the laager, but we do not hear of their having 
 taken any steps to prevent such atrocities in the future. 
 
 The leader of the filibusters is said to be more anxious to kill 
 the women than the men, because, he says, they pick and 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 SLAVES BOUGHT AND SOLD. 
 
 227 
 
 sow, and thus are the chief instruments in prolonging the 
 war. 
 
 The above details have been brought into Leydenburg by 
 several parties from Steelport, and have been fully corrobo¬ 
 rated by one of the Steelport camp Kafirs. 
 
 This Kafir also says the women begged hard for their lives, 
 and offered to show where there was a lot of grain hidden. 
 The Kafir murderers themselves have also told the horrible 
 tale. 
 
 Fort Bergers, Dee. 26tli, 1876. 
 
 Slaves are sold here every day. There are plenty of witnesses 
 to prove all I am going to say . . . bought a salted horse 
 (that is, a horse which has had the sickness), from a farmer 
 for two lit tie Kafirs. I believe the father of the Kafirs was 
 first shot, and then the Kafir that was sent to shoot him said, 
 “Now that the father is dead let us kill the mother, or she 
 may tell tales.” D. S. bought another slave—in fact all the 
 farmers trade in them. 
 
 The prisoners at Kruger’s Post have been shot in the night, 
 sooner than take them to Leydenburg. One was killed at 
 3 o’clock in the morning, and the other was taken away and 
 killed at Spekboom at 11 o’clock at night. They wanted to 
 put him up for a target, but it was said the English people 
 at Kruger’s Post would not allow it. Next a Kafir going 
 into Leydenburg with a flag of truce was shot. The other 
 Kafirs ran away, but three or four days after they gave them¬ 
 selves up. These three Kafirs were shot in a most brutal 
 way; for if they got into Leydenburg they would have told 
 the English about shooting at them when going in with the 
 white flag. The prisoners were sent to Leydenburg in charge 
 of the very worst hands in Kruger’s Post. From Kruger’s Post 
 to near Spekboom three farmers kept with them until going 
 into Spekboom, when - rode about to see if no English¬ 
 
 men were about. The other two farmers stopped behind 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 about a quarter of a mile. The two Kafirs in charge had 
 orders to shoot down two of the prisoners with the first two 
 shots, which they did ; the other one ran away with his 
 hands tied behind his back ; then one of the farmers rode up 
 and shot him. One of the three farmers always took out 
 with him about fifty or a hundred Kafirs to do the dirty 
 work, such as killing women and children. 
 
 [In the original (he names of these farmers are given.] 
 
 These atrocities were very naturally denied by the President, 
 who intimated that witnesses were required to prove their truth ; 
 but as an indictment for high treason awaited those who were 
 bold enough to denounce them openly, no one was ready to 
 undertake the hazardous duty. 
 
 While I was at Pretoria, the officer commanding the mounted 
 infantry was encamped about the town. A native attached to a 
 waggon-party which was passing by, seeing the British flag 
 rushed into the camp and implored protection. He said that he 
 had been at the Diamond Fields, and as he was returning thence, 
 about a year and a half ago. with the gun he had purchased by 
 his labour, and which he had a permit to carry, he was seized 
 and made a slave of by a Dutch farmer, on whose farm he had 
 been obliged to remain since that time. British protection was 
 of course extended to him. 
 
 Sir Theophilus Shepstone was directed to go to the Trans¬ 
 vaal as Commissioner and try and restore order. Secret 
 powers were given him to annex the country if he thought it 
 needful. In January 1876 he arrived at Pretoria, accompanied 
 by a small party of Natal police. He found the affairs of the 
 State in a very bad condition. The failure of the Commandos 
 raised against the chief Secocoeni had demoralised the people. 
 They refused to fight for the defence of their republic, and 
 when called upon to contribute to the payment of the expenses 
 incurred by the war, declined to pay the war taxes. The 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 ANNEXATION OF THE TRANSVAAL. 
 
 229 
 
 President was forced to accept an inglorious treaty of peace 
 with the native chief whom he had sought to humble; but 
 there was no guarantee that the peace would be long con¬ 
 tinued. Besides this, the treasury of the Republic was empty 
 and the credit of the Government gone. Sir Theophilus Shep- 
 stone then placed before the President (Mr. Burgers) a pro¬ 
 posal for a confederation of the Transvaal with the other 
 British colonies. The Local Parliament or Yolksraad was 
 summoned to consider the Commissioner’s proposals. During 
 the animated discussions which ensued, the President en¬ 
 deavoured to bring the members and the people to a sense of 
 the condition of the Republic by the most bitter exposure of its 
 weakness. He derided them for cherishing a mock inde¬ 
 pendence in the face of calamities which must inevitably crush 
 and destroy them, and proposed as the only remedy a change 
 in the Constitution, by which the President would virtually 
 become a dictator for five years. But the Government under 
 Mr. Burgers’ auspices had not been so successful as to encou¬ 
 rage the people to desire five years more of it. Finally the 
 Yolksraad broke up without having done more than agree to 
 certain oppressive measures, the most grievous of which was 
 the levy of a war tax far heavier than any preceding impost of 
 the kind. Meanwhile Secoeoeni, the chief who had been at 
 war with the Transvaal, again assumed an offensive attitude, 
 and repudiated “ the terms of submission ” which it had been 
 understood he had accepted. The Zulus, moreover, showed 
 signs of their intention to attack the Boers. During his stay 
 in Pretoria Sir Theophilus had abundant opportunity for ob¬ 
 serving the helplessness of the country and the impotence of 
 its Government. At length the period arrived at which he 
 considered he ought to act upon his secret instructions. 
 
 On the 6th of April he apprised the President that he should 
 wait no longer, but at once proclaim the Transvaal to be British 
 territory. Three days later a Gazette Extraordinary was 
 
230 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 issued containing the Royal Commissions, the Special Com¬ 
 missioner’s Proclamation of British rule, with the reasons 
 therefor given at considerable length, Sir T. Shepstone’s Pro¬ 
 clamation assuming office as administrator, a long address to 
 the Burghers of the Transvaal “appealing to them as a 
 friend,” and justifying the act of annexation out of the mouth 
 of their late President, and a proclamation suspending the 
 operation of the law by which the obnoxious war levy bad been 
 imposed. 
 
 Sir Theophilus thus expressed his views upon the situation. 
 He said that— 
 
 The purposes contemplated by the mission were purposes of 
 good wall to South Africa generally; and, in regard to this 
 country in particular, her Majesty’s Government had no 
 objects except such as would promote its real prosperity and 
 advantage in every way. These objects, however, it was 
 earnestly desired to accomplish by and with the concurrence 
 and co-operation of the people and the Government of the 
 country itself. But, besides and beyond these latter im¬ 
 portant objects, her Majesty’s Government had felt bound 
 to look at the position of affairs in South Africa generally, 
 which for some time past had caused considerable anxiety, 
 especially in regard to native affairs and complications and 
 possible eventualities arising out of the condition and line of 
 action adopted by the Transvaal Republic, which would 
 very soon and very seriously affect the British colonies and 
 the whole of this portion of the African continent. The 
 tendency of what had been going on in this neighbourhood 
 for some time past had been to damage very much the 
 influence and authority of the while man, upon the mainte¬ 
 nance of which the very safety, lives, and property of all the 
 inhabitants of South Africa depended—surrounded on all 
 sides as the white population are by overwhelming masses of 
 
XXIII.] THE DANGER OF THE BLACKS RISING. 
 
 231 
 
 natives, most of them in a state of barbarism. It was to be 
 feared that they had of late come to think it quite possible 
 to oppose the white man, and that successfully, and that 
 unless preventive measures were adopted, they might 
 combine to a very dangerous extent. 
 
 The position, both of the Cape Colony and of Natal, especially 
 the latter, was in such circumstances as to demand that steps 
 should he taken to obviate this possibility. In that view the 
 great point was, that the various civilised communities of 
 South Africa should be united among themselves; that, 
 abandoning jealousies and a line of conduct which kept them 
 apart, and rendered joint action impossible, we should 
 present a united front to the masses of natives around us. 
 For the accomplishment of these purposes the British 
 Government had resolved upon this mission to the Trans¬ 
 vaal, and, considering the very long term of service which 
 Sir Theophilus had had, and his consequent experience and 
 knowledge of native affairs,' customs, and complications in 
 South Africa generally, had determined to place him at its 
 head, in the first instance somewhat against his own wishes. 
 But he had not felt at liberty to decline the duty which 
 the British Government desired to impose upon him. He 
 earnestly hoped that the objects of the mission would be 
 thoroughly and quickly accomplished. It seemed absolutely 
 necessary that the different colonies and states should very 
 soon be united under one general bond for the protection 
 and promotion of every civil, social, and religious interest. 
 To that object his earnest and determined efforts were being 
 now directed. lie hoped he should receive as he needed, the 
 sympathy, support, and co-operation of the people generally 
 in order to carry out what he had in view in the best, 
 simplest, and most natural manner. He had determined if 
 possible to succeed, and he hoped that he would have the 
 assistance of the Government in carrying out what was in 
 
232 
 
 MY COMMAND JN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 hand, upon terms fair, reasonable, and beneficial to this 
 country in all its interests. 
 
 On the 12th of April the annexation was formally made, 
 a day memorable in the annals of South Africa and indeed in 
 those of Great Britain. 
 
 The change of government was effected without any dis¬ 
 turbance. It was known that British troops were on the 
 borders of the adjoining colony of Natal, but none were in the 
 Republic. A number of the inhabitants of Pretoria who sup¬ 
 ported the Special Commissioner’s proceedings formed a pro¬ 
 tecting force and offered their services to maintain order, 
 although fortunately there was no call for them. 
 
 The President entered a protest against the annexation—in 
 fact, he could scarcely do less pro forma —but it was quite 
 evident he saw that the Republic could not stand alone, and I 
 believe that, seeing this, he felt that it was infinitely the best 
 for its real interests that it should fall into the hands of England. 
 
 Under the circumstances I think it will be allowed that a 
 reasonable pension should be given him, and I sincerely hope 
 that this may be done. 
 
 A greater danger to the tranquillity of South Africa than 
 any reprisals from Secocoeni or other northern tribes was the 
 animosity of Cetewayo against the Boers generally and against 
 the Transvaal Government in particular. The special cause 
 of this feeling was a dispute which the Zulu king had l'or 
 some years had with the Republic respecting certain lands on 
 the Pongola river, east of Newcastle in Natal, and of Utrecht. 
 The Boers claimed a large extent of country which they stated 
 had been sold to them by Cetewayo, the sale of which he 
 altogether denied. 
 
 The Transvaal Government had already alienated this land 
 to certain of the citizens. It was undoubtedly purchased at 
 absurdly low prices, for a gentleman tolcl nm during my tour 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 CETEWA YO'S QUARREL. 
 
 233 
 
 in the Transvaal, that he had bought 70,000 acres of fine 
 land for less than 1000/. The purchasers claimed the pro¬ 
 tection of the State in their occupation, which the Republic 
 was quite unable to grant, and the occupiers were consequently 
 driven from their farms. 
 
 This disputed country had been offered by Cetewayo to 
 the British Government, but while there was a dispute con¬ 
 cerning it with the Boers, it would naturally not have been 
 proper for the British Government to have accepted it, 
 however much (now that the annexation is completed) we 
 may regret that we did not do so. Cetewayo then threatened 
 to attack the Boers, and seeing how abortive their attempts 
 against Secocoeni had been, and hearing of the contempt 
 with which they were regarded by the Amaswasi, who accused 
 them of cowardice at Johannes’ kraal, he determined to execute 
 his threats and carry fire and sword into the Republic. 
 
 Cetewayo and his army felt themselves strong, they were 
 numerous, united, and well-armed. On the previous year I 
 had met some of Cetewayo’s Indunas at Pietermaritzberg. 
 I had an interview with them, and they informed me that his 
 army consisted of more than 20,000 men, all armed with 
 muskets, and that 4000 of them had rifles, of which 2000 
 were breech-loaders. Subsequent accounts do not belie the 
 accuracy of these statements. 
 
 The great danger of an attack on the Republic by the Zulu 
 king was averted, just in time, by the annexation of the Trans¬ 
 vaal. Had Cetewayo attacked the Boers, the intimate acquaint¬ 
 ance which I subsequently made with the country, assures 
 me that the Transvaal Republic would have become a scene 
 of bloodshed, fire, and rapine from one end to the other. 
 
 Cetewayo, however, saw things in rather a different light. 
 Greedy for land, as all natives are, he gave Sir T. Shepstone 
 the credit of being animated by this passion alone. He con¬ 
 sidered that the Commissioner was treating him basely, first 
 
234 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 by preventing him from overrunning the country, and then 
 by occupying it for the British. He felt especially grieved 
 that this should be done by Somtsen (the native name for 
 Sir Theophilus), whom he considered as his father, and who 
 had crowned him at his coronation. Report said that imme¬ 
 diately on the news reaching Newcastle that the Transvaal had 
 been annexed, the chief native constable was sent off according 
 to instructions received from Sir Theophilus Shepstone to 
 Cetewayo to inform him of it, and to tell him, on no account, 
 to attempt the invasion of the Transvaal. On the delivery of 
 the message, Cetewayo flew into a rage, and ordered the mes¬ 
 senger to be put to death at once. One of his principal 
 Indunas, however, interfered, and told him that they (the 
 Indunas) could not allow it to be done, as he had only delivered 
 the message he was sent to deliver, and it was not his fault if 
 that message was offensive. 
 
 Cetewayo then ordered the Induna to be killed; but the 
 other Indunas objecting to this very strongly, he was obliged 
 to relinquish his intention, and walked off to his hut in a 
 passion. He said that the Natal Government had deceived and 
 outwitted him in annexing the Transvaal, that they had pre¬ 
 vented his going to war with the Boers ; that they might take 
 the Boers’ country to themselves, and close him in, so that 
 there would be no path for his armies to go out to fight with 
 other Kafir tribes. Since this Cetewayo has submitted the 
 question of peace or war to his army. A majority is said to 
 have decided in favour of peace, but these wiser councils having 
 been overruled, and the British Government having sent an 
 ultimatum to Cetewayo, has commenced hostilities against him. 
 
 In a few words I have thus endeavoured to explain the 
 necessity which compelled us to annex the Transvaal. Some of 
 the inhabitants resented it, and sent Paul Ivruger, formerly a 
 General in the Republican service, with a petition to England 
 against it, but the majority, especially those on the eastern 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 WASHING IIIS SPEARS. 
 
 235 
 
 side, knew their danger, and that the Republic was perfectly 
 unable to defend itself, so that although a few spoke against 
 the measure from national pride, the)' were deeply grateful in 
 their hearts to the hand which had saved their homes from 
 destruction. 
 
 It may interest my readers to quote a few words from Mr. 
 Fynney’s report of an interview which he held with Cetewayo 
 about this period at the request of Sir Theophilus Shepstone. 
 Mr. Fynney says that the King sent most of his chiefs and all 
 his men away, saying, “ he had a word for Mr. Fynney’s ear 
 alone ”:— 
 
 I wish you to ask Somtsen (meaning Sir Theophilus Shep¬ 
 stone) to allow me to make one little raid only, one small 
 swoop ; it will not be asking much. Why will he not listen 
 to me ? He knows where I want to go, and so do you too, 
 only you won’t admit it. It is the custom of our country 
 when a new king is placed over the nation to wash their 
 spears, and it has been done in the case of all former kings 
 of Zulu land. I am no king, but sit in a heap. I cannot be 
 a king till 1 have washed my assegais. 
 
 Cetewayo had never seen a revolver-pistol. Mr. Finney, 
 having shown him one, fired it at a calabash. The chief was 
 much surprised at the power of so small a weapon. “ How 
 destructive will it be,” he said, “ when it has grown up and 
 become a mother?”—which must be understood as meaning: a 
 cannon. 
 
 In Zulu land it is considered a great privilege to be made a 
 soldier. All the sons of Cetewayo are made soldiers at the age 
 of six years or thereabouts, and all the children who are born 
 in the same year are also made soldiers at the same time as 
 the dignity is conferred upon the prince of whom they are 
 contemporaries. 
 
236 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Wives are a very valuable property in Zulu land, partly, of 
 course, for the reason that the greatest reward of a soldier is to 
 receive a present of a wife. 
 
 The lot of a native wife is often a most unhappy one. 
 Considered as property, and treated well or ill according to the 
 caprice of her husband, she not unfrequently attempts to 
 escape. 
 
 The Zulu laws to prevent these escapes are most barbarous. 
 If any woman runs away, either to Natal or any neighbouring 
 tribe, Cetewayo orders the execution of all the men in the 
 kraal, confiscates the women, and bestows them as wives on his 
 soldiers. 
 
 The following story was related to me concerning Cetewayo. 
 Dr. Drummond had lately been invited, at the instigation of 
 Mr. John Dunn, to visit Cetewayo at his great place in Zulu 
 land, to give medical advice to the chief as to his health. 
 
 Upon a careful consideration of the circumstances of the 
 case, Dr. Drummond could find no better recipe than a liberal 
 allowance of oysters and porter. Cetewayo was so pleased with 
 the advice that he ordered three hundred head of cattle to be 
 at once presented to the doctor, and that Mr. Dunn should see 
 to it. The value of the cattle may be estimated at about 51. 
 each—a royal reward, no doubt, and fairly earned. But Mr. Dunn 
 had made a private arrangement with the doctor to give him 
 100Z., whatever the remuneration might be. Dr. Drummond 
 only got his 100Z. The person perhaps most pleased with 
 the recipe was Mr. John Dunn himself. Had the doctor 
 ordered even the most nauseous compound, Dunn would have 
 been obliged, according to custom, to swallow a considerable 
 portion of it in front of the chief, to prove that it did not 
 contain poison. In the present instance his duty was easy 
 and agreeable. 
 
 There is no doubt that the Zulus are the most warlike tribe 
 in South Africa. Their conquests have been extended further 
 
XXIII.] 
 
 THE SPARTANS OF SOUTII AFRICA. 
 
 237 
 
 than those of any other; and but for the arms and organisation 
 of the white man, it is by no means improbable that they 
 would have come as conquerors even to the walls of Cape 
 Town. 
 
 They are reported to be ready to offer sacrifices when they 
 consider that their military enterprises will be benefited by 
 them. In Zulu land there is said to be a locality where Chaka 
 buried all the brass ornaments of his tribe, having ordered his 
 Zulus to wear none in future but those made of iron. 
 
238 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTEB XXIV. 
 
 TOUR TO THE TRANSVAAL. 
 
 Though the Cape Colony has no more to do with the Transvaal 
 than England has with France, the annexation made the 
 Governor at Cape Town Governor of the Transvaal also, and 
 the English troops were charged with protecting the lives and 
 property of the Transvaal colonists no less than the lives and 
 property of the inhabitants of the Cape Colony. As soon, 
 therefore, as the Transvaal had been annexed, it became 
 my duty to propose arrangements for its defence. Early in 
 the spring of 1877, Sir Bartle Frere arrived at Cape Town. I 
 placed before him my views upon the subject, which he entirely 
 approved. I then started for the Transvaal in order to make 
 sure that the arrangements which I thought necessary should 
 be properly carried out. 
 
 I will not narrate the incidents of my journey to Natal. 
 Suffice it to say that, having passed through Pietermaritzburg, 
 I reached Frasers on the 31st of May. The British troops 
 under my command did not immediately accompany me, but 
 followed by a somewhat different route. In case of an out¬ 
 break I established a military post at Newcastle, a commanding 
 position, and the troops, having reached that point, proceeded 
 to the Transvaal. On the north-east of Frasers is situated 
 the tract of country called New Scotland, which had been 
 purchased by a Scotch company. I was given to understand 
 that it comprised 300 farms, in all about 1,800,000 acres. It 
 is said to have been bought at the rate of Is. per acre, and paid 
 
XXIV.] 
 
 A CA VAL BY ST A TION. 
 
 239 
 
 for in bank notes of the Republic, which could be purchased 
 at the time for about 2s. Gd. to 3s. in the pound. If so it was 
 bought, not at Is. the acre, but at 1 \d. Shortly after I left the 
 Transvaal, Mr. Robert Bell, who was carrying on the agency of 
 this large estate, was murdered. 
 
 A young Kafir had committed some act of disobedience to 
 his chief, who resides on Mr. Bell’s farm, being an Amaswazi 
 refugee of some eight months’ standing. This chief had seized 
 cattle belonging to the young native. He appealed to Mr. 
 Bell, who, after consulting Sir T. Shepstone, went unarmed 
 to recover the cattle at the kraal of the chief. He was accom¬ 
 panied by some eight or ten native policemen. The restora¬ 
 tion of the cattle was peremptorily refused. Mr. Bell then 
 directed his men to seize the person of the chief, but before 
 they could do so he signalled his followers to attack Mr. Bell 
 and his people. They rushed upon the little party, and assegaied 
 all but two, who managed to escape. When last seen by his 
 policemen, Mr. Bell was down on one knee apparently remon¬ 
 strating with the savages, and endeavouring to ward off the 
 assegai stabs. The resident magistrate at once visited the 
 kraal. He found only Mr. Bell’s body stabbed through the 
 heart. The Kafirs had all made off. 
 
 On the following day I proceeded to Standerton, a well-situ¬ 
 ated town commanding the ford across the Yaal river. My 
 object was now to select some station on the high veldt, where 
 the cavalry could be posted, but it was requisite that it should 
 fulfil certain conditions. It must be so placed as to be of easy 
 access to Utrecht to the east; or, in case of any demonstration 
 from Cetewayo, to the north, to give ready help to Leydenburg, 
 or any party operating against Secocoeni; to the south-east, in 
 connection with Newcastle; to the west, in case of disturbance 
 in Potchefstrom; and to the north-west to be well in communi¬ 
 cation with Pretoria. Moreover, it should be upon the direct 
 road from Natal to the capital of the Transvaal, and, if pos- 
 
240 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 sible, about half way from the station which I had formed at 
 Newcastle. It was difficult to secure all these conditions at once, 
 but singularly enough I found them combined in Standerton, 
 which I at once determined in my own mind to make a cavalry- 
 station. I say in my own mind, because had I promulgated the 
 fact, the value of land would at once have risen so as to cause 
 the Government probably a much increased outlay. 
 
 In consequence of the horse sickness which affects all 
 horses during the hot season in the plains, it is a wise precau¬ 
 tion to place them on the elevated plateau during the rainy 
 and hot season; and as Standerton stands more than 4000 
 feet above the sea level, it possesses an advantage in this 
 respect scarcely shared by any other town on this route. 
 
 At Standerton we were kindly received and most hospitably 
 entertained by Madame Swikkard, a German lady, who, poor 
 thing, had just lost her husband, an officer who was formerly in 
 the Prussian service, and had left behind him a charming and 
 clever family of small children. I say clever, for they all spoke 
 German, English, Dutch, and Kafir with fluency, which gave 
 them an immense advantage over the settler from home, who 
 knows no language but his own. The Deputy Commissary 
 General engaged one of the eldest to assist in his department, 
 in which his services proved very valuable. 
 
 Standerton was first formed by vote of the Volksradt, at the 
 investigation of a General of Pretorius’s army, who had com¬ 
 manded a part of the force opposed to Sir Harry Smith, at 
 Blomplatz. He was residing near the town, and I took the 
 opportunity of calling upon him. He seemed very much grati¬ 
 fied with the attention, having been under the impression that 
 his reception by a General of our army would be the reverse 
 of agreeable. 
 
 At Standerton the officer commanding the march of the 
 troops was met by an anxious Dutch Boer, making inquiries 
 regarding our intentions in the Transvaal. He came to camp 
 
XXIV.] 
 
 THE YOUNG DUTCH BOERS. 
 
 241 
 
 from his location at some miles distant, well attended by 
 servants and spare horses, and was evidently a large proprietor. 
 He said he had been informed from Pretoria that our intentions 
 were to take the lands; to conscript the young men and place 
 them in the Grenadier Guards, and send them to fight the 
 Russians; and to levy a war tax in the Transvaal, in order to 
 pay the expenses of the war in Europe, while giving them no 
 share in the Government of their own country. When assured 
 that this was all false, and that it was the intention of the 
 Commissioner of the Transvaal to remit the war tax, he went 
 home quite contented, saying that from that moment he would 
 support the English, and added, “Pray take a glass of Schiedam, 
 Colonel, we are now all English.” 
 
 There are no finer young men in the world than the young 
 Dutch Boers, who are generally of immense height and size, 
 and very hardy. Their life is spent in the open air by day, and 
 frequently at night they sleep on the veldt, with no tent or 
 covering; men more fit for the Grenadier Guards, as to personal 
 appearance, could not be found. Some of them are plucky; 
 a Boer had part of his hand blown off by the bursting of his 
 gun. Having no doctor near, he directed his son to bring his 
 hammer and chisel and shape off his fingers. 
 
 There was one fact in our favour, which was that we paid for 
 everything, not in bank notes, which were looked upon with 
 much suspicion, but in solid gold pieces, to which the people 
 had long been strangers, and at the sight of which they showed 
 equal astonishment and gratification. 
 
 There were a few in different parts of the State who still 
 spoke of their wrongs, and were inclined to make mischief. 
 Against this species of disaffection the Volksraad had passed 
 most stringent penalties, declaring the act of “speaking against 
 Government ” to be high treason. As we had now inherited 
 their laws a copy of these enactments was directed to be sent 
 to them, which caused them much uneasiness. 
 
 it 
 
242 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Having made a detour for the purpose of inspecting the 
 country, I found when I arrived at Pretoria that the troops had 
 already arrived there and that a camp had been formed. 
 
 Pretoria is well situated and well supplied with water. 
 The President Pretorius, after whom it was named, first settled 
 the capital of the Republic at Potchefstrom, some 100 miles to 
 the west; but having granted to himself a considerable farm 
 at the site of Pretoria, he one evening packed up all the public 
 documents, without giving any notice or warning to his coun¬ 
 cillors, started off and unpacked them at Pretoria, calling the 
 future town after his own name, and establishing it as the 
 capital of the Transvaal Republic. 
 
 The position of the camp had been well chosen in a spot 
 above the town, and the troops were healthy, except for a few 
 cases of illness, said to have been caused by drinking stagnant 
 water on the march up. 
 
 The temporary Government House was the best in the town, 
 and the best situated, possessing a garden sufficiently extensive 
 to enable the Governor to place his police escort within it, as he 
 did on his first arrival, when he was seriously threatened by 
 an attack from a faction, who desired to retain the old 
 wild sort of government as more favourable to their own 
 interests. 
 
 A curious circumstance had occurred as regards the king of 
 the Zulus. On the march of the troops from Newcastle he 
 had sent native emissaries to follow them in order to give him 
 information should the Queen’s troops be attacked by the 
 Boers. 
 
 This is the story told by these spies. 
 
 Upon arrival in Pretoria we exchanged our clothes for blue 
 serge coats and trousers, obtained from a retired policeman. 
 Upon consultation we determined to wait until her Majesty’s 
 birthday. We had no difficulty in obtaining work in Pre- 
 
XXIV.] 
 
 ZULU SPIES IN THE TBANSVAAL. 
 
 243 
 
 toria, being old hands, and understanding a little English and 
 Dutch, picked upon the Diamond Fields. We were surprised 
 to find such a large dorp in the interior, but found every 
 store belonged to Englishmen, and all the people talked 
 against the late Government; therefore we considered there 
 was no chance of fighting, and our mission at an end. Her 
 Majesty’s birthday passed off very orderly, much to our dis¬ 
 appointment ; we noticed very few Boers, but hoped they 
 would show up with their generals and attack the red-coats 
 scattered all over the hills. We came to the conclusion that 
 British infantry look very well at play, but doubt their 
 abilities in bush countries—we, for instance, could in five 
 minutes massacre that little body in our country. We were 
 much impressed by the rapidity of the artillery ; they were 
 well backed up by those ferocious-looking fellows the 
 mounted police, who report says are regular “ Iblabana,” or 
 “ blood-suckers,” and would prove to us very tough cus¬ 
 tomers. We supposed Somtsen had his mabutos out to 
 frighten the Boers, and they certainly did so; as on our 
 return we met numbers of them trekking northwards with 
 their stock, and passed numerous deserted homesteads. 
 Somtsen and his Bantshla looked very fine, they had on all 
 their talismans of war. 
 
 We did not see the late President; we heard he was afraid. 
 Sir T. Shepstone intended sending him to the island where 
 Langalebalele is, under an escort of the blood-suckers; but 
 he, hearing of it through one of his Holland officials, who had 
 accepted service under the British Government, and not 
 trusting “ Paul ” and “ Galankulu ” to rescue him, tied to the 
 Free State. 
 
 We tried hard to get a look at the machine which they 
 say ‘ inva inhlamvu’ (the Gatling gun) by the handful, but 
 that building and corner street were always watched by some 
 ugly fellows who we were told had just returned from 
 
244 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 murdering and impaling Secocoeni’s poor women and 
 children. 
 
 There were numbers of Basutos in to witness the “ Uinhosi,” 
 and they never having seen British soldiers were very much 
 astonished. We also noticed the head Induna from Swasiland 
 and his followers. We tried hard on several occasions to 
 pump the latter on their mission, but without much effect, 
 but we are sure they are now English. 
 
 We left Pretoria about the end of May by the Middleburgh 
 road, making a detour to obtain passes at half-price. In 
 Middleburgh we met some German wood waggons returning 
 to Pongolo, and fortunately obtained passages. 
 
 Our king seemed perfectly satisfied with our report, and 
 presented us each with ten head of cattle. 
 
 The conduct of the troops had been all that could be 
 desired, and the inhabitants appeared in every way satisfied 
 with their presence. 
 
 Nothing but the firm attitude of Sir T. Shepstone could at 
 this moment have saved Pretoria from a civil war and its 
 consequences. The Zulus who were in the employ of civilians 
 simultaneously left the city and congregated in a neighbouring 
 valley, where they came to the determination to attack the 
 Boers, in defence of their Father (the Administrator). They 
 were employed in sharpening their assegais and other prepara¬ 
 tions to pay their old masters out, and but for Sir T. Shep- 
 stone’s influence, bloody scenes would assuredly have been 
 enacted in this city. 
 
 The value of property in Pretoria has risen about 400 per 
 cent, during the last two months, clearly demonstrating the 
 unceasing confidence in our occupation. Previous to the 
 proclamation, whereby it was placed under our flag, no taxes 
 had been paid, and consequently no salaries received by public 
 officials. When the Administrator requested to know what 
 
XXIV.] 
 
 SALTED MULES. 
 
 245 
 
 more there was in the public chest, he was told that it had 
 all been lent upon good interest by the treasurer, but would be 
 paid back as soon as received. I understand that the whole 
 sum which could be credited to the public use did not amount 
 to more than a few pounds sterling while the debts and 
 obligations were very considerable, and the credit nil. To set 
 the State going, a loan of money was a positive necessity. 
 
 Having made all possible arrangements for the present at 
 Pretoria I was desirous of visiting the Eastern frontier of the 
 Transvaal, especially the Gold Fields, and on the 21st of June 
 we left for Middleburgh. 
 
 Starting in the afternoon, we only reached Bothu, and the 
 following evening we slept at Forster’s—where one of our best 
 mules succumbed. His body was drawn into the veldt by the 
 remainder of the team as the dead horse is dragged out of 
 the Corrido del Toro at Madrid. This was a great loss to us, 
 as the price demanded for mules in this neighbourhood was 
 too high to justify me in purchasing another. At the neigh¬ 
 bouring farm at Lumbengs they asked 100?. for a pair, and 
 beyond Middleburgh 150?. These mules possessed an advan¬ 
 tage, especially for this country, which very much enhanced 
 their value; they had undergone the process of salting, which 
 signified that they had each had the horse sickness, from which 
 they had successfully recovered. Thus, they were almost safe 
 from a future attack of that disease, and their value was 
 trebled by the fact. 
 
 On the 23rd we reached Middleburgh, and remained there 
 during the following day. In the afternoon we drove over 
 to one of the largest and most interesting mission stations 
 in South Africa. Botse Bello is situated about eight miles 
 north of Middleburgh, the river having to be crossed on leaving 
 the town. 
 
MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chav. 
 
 240 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 BOTSE BELLO. 
 
 The first object wliicb met our view on leaving the station of 
 Botse Bello was a beautiful church, surpassing anything to be 
 seen not merely in the Transvaal, but in any part of the 
 colonies, with the exception perhaps of Cradock. Around it 
 were some excellent houses, with orchards and gardens of 
 considerable extent and trees heavy with fruit; below was a 
 walled native town, with three or four watch towers to com¬ 
 mand the approaches, the liver winding underneath. 
 
 The residence of Mr. Marensky, the superintendent, is a 
 charming house with fine rooms. I very much regretted his 
 absence—we were informed by his lady that he was employed 
 on a tour in the Zoutspanberg district. 
 
 We visited the military works which he had caused to be 
 erected on the hill above the town. They were excellently 
 planned and of considerable extent, and evinced a great know¬ 
 ledge of military science. 
 
 I was of opinion that Mr. Marensky had shown great fore¬ 
 sight in these precautions, for, in the state into which the 
 country had drifted through the miserable incompetence of the 
 late Government, it was impossible to guess the day or even 
 the hour when an attack might be expected from the Zulus or 
 the Amaswasi. 
 
 But in making these works, a large amount of instruction 
 had been conveyed to the natives, who appeared not to have 
 been slow in availing themselves of it; for I was given to under- 
 
XXV.] 
 
 A MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT. 
 
 247 
 
 stand that Johannes, who successfully withstood the attack 
 upon his kraal by the Boers in Secocoeni’s country, had been 
 for a considerable time at Marensky missionary station, and 
 had there gained the knowledge he used to fortify his town. 
 
 Around the church there were shops for all trades. Black¬ 
 smiths, masons, carpenters, and numerous natives had profited 
 by them. Large farming operations were being carried on; 
 many hundreds of acres were carefully walled in; in fact, 
 Botse Bello had advanced far beyond what I had previously 
 seen or expected. We visited the native huts, which were well 
 built and scrupulously clean, with nicely arranged courtyards 
 to each. The number of children was quite extraordinary, 
 and evinced the prosperity of the station. 
 
 I understood the work to be conducted upon a system of 
 sharing the profit, a very considerable portion going to the 
 superintendent for the expenses of the institution. 
 
 This, then, seemed to be the correct method of civilising the 
 natives; first causing them to know their wants, and then 
 teaching them how to supply them. I could not doubt that 
 Mr. Marensky must be a man of great euergy, or fail to wish 
 him the success which he so well deserves. I think that if 
 such a system were adopted in all missionary stations as those 
 at Alice and Botse Bello, more speedy results as to Christianity 
 and civilisation would be the consequence. They are founded 
 upon principles which appear to me to appeal to common sense 
 rather than to the ideal ; the first being within the range of the 
 mind of the savage, the second elevated beyond him. 
 
 Middleburgh, formerly called Nazareth, shows evident signs 
 of becoming a large town in the future. The Boers are very 
 fond of Scriptural names, and it seems a pity that the title of 
 this town was altered, though its present name is appropriate, 
 as there can be little doubt but that it will become the centre 
 of a thriving district. 
 
 Property is increasing in value here with marvellous 
 
248 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [CiiAr. 
 
 rapidity. I was shown one farm but a short distance from the 
 town, for which the owner, a resident in Middleburgh, had 
 a few months ago refused 1200?. JHe had purchased this farm 
 three years before for three bottles of brandy and a bag of 
 sugar and coffee! 
 
 At Middleburgh we made the acquaintance of Mr. Essell, 
 who was in Government employment. His anecdotes regarding 
 the northern portion of the Transvaal and the Zoutspanberg 
 were very interesting. He said that when residing on the 
 northern border, Paul Kruger being in command, the natives in 
 large numbers surrounded a well-built village contaiuing a 
 considerable number of houses and many stores. A black 
 spokesman advanced and told him that by Monday next every 
 soul must leave the village, as they intended to burn it down. 
 This being, as he said, on a Saturday, they had not much 
 notice of the coming destruction of their property. 
 
 The Kafirs, however, evidently meant what they said. 
 They were in war paint and armed, performing their war 
 dances, brandishing and hurling their assegais. The inhabitants 
 appealed to Paul Kruger, who said he was powerless to assist 
 them; that he had not sufficient force at his command to ensure 
 their protection, and that they had better pack up their effects 
 as soon as they could, and be ready to start; and if they wished 
 to accompany him they must be prepared to move on Monday 
 morning. On Saturday and Sunday they packed all their 
 things in waggons, the natives sitting round the town, drum¬ 
 ming, but not interfering. On Monday morning the people 
 assembled in the market-place,—the savages watching them 
 from the neighbouring hills,—and started for the lower 
 country, leaving their houses and gardens aud such stores as 
 they had not been able to pack up. No sooner had they left 
 the village than the savages rushed upon it, each with a 
 lighted brand, and before they were many yards away the 
 town was but a heap of ashes. He said that this wanton assault 
 
XXV.] 
 
 A COBALT MINE. 
 
 249 
 
 was never avenged; the savages had been pressing on lor some 
 years, retaking from the Boers many and many a farm and 
 thousands of cattle, the Boers being powerless to protect 
 themselves. 
 
 Near the shortest road to Leydenburg, which was repre¬ 
 sented as so bad that no carriage could possibly travel along 
 it, there exists a mine, the property of Sir Maurice Barlow 
 and some others, who had bought it from its Dutch owner. 
 Not knowing what the mineral was, they sent a specimen 
 of the ore to England, when it w r as declared to be cobalt. 
 There are said to be only three cobalt mines in the world,— 
 in Russia, in Hungary, and in the Transvaal. The ore from 
 this mine now realises 130Z. per ton, and the company now 
 makes about 4000Z. per annum. Singularly enough, the 
 Dutch Boer who was the owner of the land now acts as over¬ 
 seer on his former farm. 
 
 Before leaving Middleburgh I paid great attention to the 
 position of the town, as I clearly saw that in the event of future 
 difficulties in the eastern part of the Transvaal it would be a 
 valuable and necessary position for troops. Within twelve 
 months a force from Pretoria was despatched there. 
 
 We started from Middleburgh on the way to Pilgrims’ Rest 
 on the morning of the 25tli, but with the intention of remaining 
 a day or two at Hortogh’s farm, about fifteen miles distant, at 
 which we arrived about noon. It was unfortunate that we had 
 not sent some of our shooting horses forward. We had under¬ 
 stood that there was very little game in this neighbourhood, 
 whereas it turned out that the whole country was covered with 
 wildebeest and blesbok. Mr. llortogh was good enough to 
 lend me one of his horses, and before evening we made a 
 reputable bag. 
 
 In doing this I had the opportunity of looking at some of 
 his farms, each of about G000 acres of land, but most of them 
 lay in a state of nature. His runs for sheep and cattle appeared 
 
250 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 excellent, but at present they held nothing but game. We 
 met with many fine pans of water, at which the gnu and the 
 antelope alone slaked their thirst; and Mr. Hortogh assured 
 me that he had discovered on his land coal, iron, lead, silver, 
 brimstone and saltpetre ; but what did not exist was people to 
 improve the face of the country. He was most desirous of 
 obtaining emigrants. He said that he would give up four 
 farms in this district, of 6000 acres each, lend ploughs and 
 oxen, and give seed, on the terms of his taking half the produce 
 tor leu years, at the end of which time the farm would become 
 the fee-simple property of the settler without any payment. 
 
 I care ully noted what Mr. Hortogh said, because the terms 
 appeared so advantageous to any emigrant who might have 
 the means of finding his way to Middleburgh at his command, 
 and the more strong young children he could carry with him 
 the better. 
 
 The soil round Mr. Hortogh’s four houses was wonderfully 
 rich and productive. Two rows of blue gum-trees gave the 
 place a pleasant appearance, and although they had only been 
 planted for three years they measured more than forty feet 
 high, and the standard peach-trees of the same age were in 
 full bloom, and of the size and height of apple-trees at home. 
 Such peach-trees would take from ten to twelve years to attain 
 the same size, even in Stellenbosch, near Cape Town. 
 
 The potatoes which he was then digging from his garden were 
 magnificent, and excellent in flavour; and the climate of this 
 district, though hot in the middle of the day, especially in 
 summer, is always tempered by cool winds, for it must be 
 remembered that the eastern plateau of the Transvaal stands not 
 less than 5000 feet above the level of the sea. The diseases 
 amongst cattle and men, which are so well known in the lower 
 countries, are scarcely felt in the higher grounds. 
 
 Nothing is more easy than to lose one’s way in these appa¬ 
 rently endless plains. Although the whole country appears flat, 
 
XXV.] 
 
 THE PRAIRIES OF SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 251 
 
 yet in reality you keep ascending and descending gentle inclines, 
 not monotonously as in the rolling prairies of America, which 
 resemble huge waves, but at irregular distances. You some¬ 
 times see ponds of water where you least expect them, and occa- 
 sionally on overtopping a gentle rise you may find yourself in 
 face literally of thousands of game. The wildebeest, with his 
 look of anger, his fierce eyes embowered in his thick and shadowy 
 mane, snorts his surprise making circles, and whisking round 
 and round, before he recedes out of range of your rifle. 
 
 Trees there are literally none, not even a bush. 
 
 The stump-eared pig was not uncommon in the valley, and 
 the Korun were to be found in great numbers; but we only 
 came across one zebra, who would not allow us to approach 
 within reasonable distance. This species of game is rapidly 
 becoming extinct on the prairies. 
 
 We now descended a tremendous hill by an almost perpen¬ 
 dicular road to Broderick’s at the rise of the Crocodile river. 
 Here we met Mr. -, brother of the Captain of the Com¬ 
 
 mando, who was fined for retiring from the attack on Johannes’ 
 Kraal. 
 
 He was seeking his cattle, 300 head having been taken from 
 him by the Kafirs in the neighbourhood. We had a drop of 
 two feet into sprint, which tried the springs of the carriage ; our 
 Cape cart coming to grief, and turning right over into the 
 middle of the stream. No one was injured, but it took us two 
 hours to unpack the cart and repack the baggage, much of 
 which was sadly injured. When again put up on its wheels, 
 our old cart looked sadly disordered, its head was beaten in, it 
 was covered with mud, and it had been some time under water ; 
 but it was not really injured by its rough treatment. 
 
 Here we met one of the farmers, who led a Commando against 
 Secocoeni. He appeared a fine strong fellow, and a man who 
 might naturally be selected; but the fact, 1 believe, was 
 
252 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XXV 
 
 that he preferred seeing other people fight to fighting himself, 
 and I believe that a good many others shared his views. 
 
 We were shown the process of tanning. A native red plant 
 being steeped in water forms a strong astringent brine, .said to 
 be most effective, and to be quite as powerful as any bark for 
 this purpose. 
 
 On our approach to Leydenburg we passed a small hotel, 
 the only sign being the following words posted up on a square 
 board: 
 
 “Come in here and have your drink,” 
 
 — a straightforward invitation, which few gold diggers, if they 
 have any silver in their pockets, can refuse. 
 
 The country hereabouts is as pretty as a country can be 
 which is devoid of trees; fine mountains rise on either hand, 
 and lowering peaks in the distance, and streams flow in their 
 stony beds. Much of it is as rocky as Connemara, as is generally 
 the case in auriferous districts. While we were congratulating 
 ourselves on our near approach to the centre city of the Gold 
 Field region, a sudden crash snapped the perch of the carriage 
 in two. 
 
 After an hour’s detention we bound it up with the ever- 
 valuable rim, and managed to reach the town of Leydenburg. 
 
( 253 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 LEYDENBURG. 
 
 Here we were received with great kindness and attention by 
 Captain Clarke. He had just returned from an inspection 
 of Johannes’ Kraal, and had had a slight skirmish the day before 
 with some natives, in which a princess had taken part. By 
 firmness and judgment he had prevented a serious fight. 
 
 Leydenburg is situated in a large and fertile plain; the 
 country round it is beautiful, and at some of the locations the 
 finest land in the world is to be found. Wheat, considered to 
 be nearly if not quite the best at the Paris Exhibition, was 
 grown in this neighbourhood, and it is no wonder either that 
 the farmers should be desirous of getting the land from the 
 natives, or that the natives should wish to retain it. 
 
 Leydenburg is principally inhabited by Dutchmen, who 
 possess very original opinions and stick to their old customs; 
 they are particular upon points of religion. Not long since 
 an altercation took place as to the unrighteousness of dancing, 
 for which a party was tried by the synod, but on the trial an 
 appeal was made to the court, and this appeal formed an 
 important epoch in the history of the town. 
 
 The following was related to me by my aide-de-camp. 
 Shortly before leaving Leydenburg, and while sitting sketching 
 in front of the Paris Hotel, a man called Jack Sheppard 
 offered him 10s. to make a portrait of a sailor called “Blue 
 Skimmel,” from his likeness to a singularly coloured horse. 
 
254 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Ciiap. 
 
 This “ Blue Skimmel ” was as noted a character in the gold 
 borders as was Jack Sheppard. Both had formed a part of 
 the band of filibusters who fought under Von Schlickmann, and 
 claimed credit for having stood beside Schlickmann when he was 
 shot, although report said that everyone of his comrades had 
 deserted him. 
 
 “Ah,” said Jack Sheppard, “if your hanged Government 
 had not stepped in we should have had a fine time of it, we 
 intended to have helped ourselves, we did.” 
 
 On the 30th of June we left Leydenburg at 9 A.M., having 
 hired a waggon with twelve oxen and two Kafir drivers to 
 carry our tents, cooking utensils, stores, and servants, at \l. 
 per day. 
 
 About five miles from Leydenburg we met Mr. Birch, a 
 handsome gentleman with a foreign appearance and manner. 
 He is the brother of Mr. Jullien, the great bandmaster, but 
 has adopted the name of his mother, which was Birch. In 
 conversation he admitted that he had taken a leading part in 
 opposing our annexation of the Transvaal. He opposed it, he 
 said, on patriotic grounds so long as the Bepublic existed, but 
 now that the Proclamation was un fait accompli, and that the 
 English ensign flew over the Government House at Pretoria, 
 he would loyally support English rule. 
 
 He described the war, which had been carried on for 
 about a year within a few miles of his own farm, as having- 
 been most ruinous to him, and he now looked for better 
 times. 
 
 About seven miles further on we came to a beautiful glen 
 called Spekboom, with a fine river running briskly through it. 
 Here were some ruined houses, showing signs of having been 
 destroyed by fire. They had been burned by the Kafirs in 
 the war a few months previously, and in the woods, a few 
 hundred yards from the river bank, were the remains of some 
 bodies ol the natives who had been shot in the engagement on 
 
XXVI.] 
 
 AN UNWELCOME SUITOR. 
 
 255 
 
 that occasion. The Kafirs had driven the Boers from this Iiousp, 
 and then used it as a hospital for their wounded; but they 
 were in turn dislodged, which sealed the fate of the building. 
 
 We had great difficulty in getting our bullocks to face 
 the opposite hill, but were assisted by two passing strangers, 
 one of whom turned out to be of the name Reilly. He 
 was another instance of steady honest conduct rewarded 
 he was the son of a soldier in the Cape corps who had saved a 
 little money. When wars were supposed to have become a 
 thing of the past in South Africa, and his regiment was 
 disbanded, he had found his way into the wilds of the Republic. 
 After some hardships he had thriven, and his son was now the 
 possessor of 10,000 acres of land joining the estate of Hortogh, 
 where we had been shooting. In addition to this land he was 
 the owner of 100 head of cattle, and some hundreds of sheep, 
 horses, and waggons. His friend Mr. McLaughlin said that 
 after he had made what he considered a tidy fortune, he had 
 returned home to Ireland, where, as he expressed it, “he 
 never saw the sun.” When he had been there three months, 
 he said, “ This will never do for me, I am off again to South 
 Africa.” He felt himself more at home in the wild lands of 
 the Dwasi, than in the city of Dublin. 
 
 A short distance to the north of “Spek Boom” a Boer 
 farmer was said to have shot down one of his Kafir servants 
 for the following reason:—It seems that the daughter of the 
 Boer fell in love with a native, and after vainly beseeching her 
 father to allow the marriage ran away with him. The father 
 tracked them, and overtaking them, shot the young man, and 
 ordered his daughter home with the remark, “Now that matter 
 is completed, and we shall hear no more of it.” 
 
 Towards the evening we reached Kruger’s Port. A laager, 
 or fortified post, had been formed about 500 yards distant from 
 the house, which had been occupied during the last year by 
 Mr. Glyn and his family and many of his neighbours, and from 
 
256 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 which he had had the mortification of seeing his house gutted 
 by the Kafirs. 
 
 I examined this building, which had held out so long, and 
 which evidenced the want of spirit and enterprise of the enemy. 
 It was built without flank defences, and so placed as to be 
 capable of approach by means of a ravine, which ran almost 
 up to its walls. 
 
 The interior was divided into numerous small rooms, which 
 had been crowded with the families of its defenders, who had 
 brought their all into the camp, sacrificing their homesteads 
 and farms. 
 
 This laager had been the abode of Mr. Glyn and his son 
 and daughters for the eleven previous months, during the 
 whole of which they had been continually exposed to an 
 intermittent fire of musketry from the natives, and had been 
 cooped up in little dark shanties, not larger and not nearly so 
 well constructed as a pig-sty. Poor people! they must have 
 been delighted when our annexation of the Transvaal brought 
 security and a release from their troubles. 
 
 Some of their alarms were rather ludicrous, emanating from 
 absurd sources. On one occasion a lady informed a police officer 
 that certain Kafirs were hidden behind her kitchen in an 
 outhouse, plotting mischief. The officer, understanding the 
 Kafir language, went to listen, and discovered that the people 
 were anxiously disputing as to which of their hens had laid 
 the most eggs. 
 
 I met a Kafir who said, “Do you see that pony passing 
 by ? some three years since master exchanged me for that 
 yellow cob.” 
 
 Here I met some knob-nosed Kafirs. I had expected to 
 have seen them with knobs like large apples or potatoes at the 
 end of their noses, and I was somewhat disappointed to dis¬ 
 cover that, so far from this being the case, these natives were 
 better formed and with more regular features than any I had 
 
XXVI.] 
 
 THE KING OF OP 77 lit. 
 
 257 
 
 yet seen in South Africa. On each side of their cheeks were 
 rows of small pimples. These I was told had been produced 
 by tying up the skin in little knots when the children were 
 young, which had by no means an unpleasing effect. 
 
 These people are quiet and well-behaved, and considered 
 to be valuable servants; they came from the north-east side 
 of the Limpopo. They inhabit the country where the Ophir 
 of King Solomon is supposed to have been, from whence 
 wonderful accounts are transmitted at this day of the gold to 
 be found in it. This territory is under the sway of Lo Bengula. 
 Mr. Baines established a friendship with this chief, but when 
 on the point of starting from Natal for his country, by 
 permission of the king, he died. The ‘ Transvaal Argus ’ says:— 
 
 From private sources I hear that the gold-fields in Mashona 
 yield a splendid average of coarse gold and nuggets. Lo 
 Bengula has forbidden any white man to enter the country 
 without his special permission, and issued strict orders that 
 no one is to dig or prospect. Repeated attempts have been 
 made to gain the King’s favour, and induce him to grant 
 permission to explore the land, but with one result, in the 
 sharply emphasized answer, “ I refuse.” The only one who 
 could have successfully influenced him is now dead. Poor 
 Baines! Not only have private individuals made applica¬ 
 tion, but agents acting on behalf of companies. Some of 
 these agents have not comported themselves at his capital in 
 a manner calculated to excite respect, esteem, or contideuce. 
 Probably, if a well-accredited gentleman were entrusted with 
 the mission, he might succeed in inducing Lo Bengula to 
 open up the country to diggers and speculators. 
 
 A writer in the ‘ Diamond News ’ says: 
 
 Lo Bengula appears to be a sad and merciless rascal; fleeces 
 every white man that comes near him, and has turned the 
 
 s 
 
258 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Maskona country into a slaughter-house. He is desirous of 
 keeping upon the best of terms with the British Government. 
 He is doing his best by every artifice that he can devise to 
 keep the white man out of his country. He knows full well 
 that the Mashona country is the richest gold-field in South 
 Africa, and he is afraid that if he permits the white man to 
 go into that country he will lose his power over it. He does 
 not like the intelligence that the British Government has 
 annexed the Transvaal, because he thinks that that Govern¬ 
 ment, being so close to him, will soon put an end to his 
 incursions into the Mashona country, where he sends to slay 
 and burn those who are too old to be made slaves of, and to 
 kidnap all who are. He has always been determined to keep 
 the Mashona gold-field sacred to himself. When permission 
 was asked to go into the Mashona country, his first answer 
 was, “ There is no gold there.” “ Never mind that,” said the 
 applicant, “ all I want is permission to go there.” He then 
 said, “ If I tell you there is no meat in my pots, why will you 
 not believe me? Why will you persist in having a look at 
 them ? ” He was told Englishmen always liked to see new 
 countries, and could sometimes see things which their owners 
 could not see, but which it was good for the owner, as well 
 as the prospector, should be discovered. He then said 
 plainly, “I will not allow you to go into the country, for 
 if I did I might as well give it you.” 
 
 The chiefs of the Matabele have been renowned for being a 
 savage set, but it is by no means impossible that the stories 
 concerning Lo Bengula are very much exaggerated by those 
 who are anxious to seek for gold. When two officers of the 
 32nd Regiment visited his country he received them with 
 great attention, and they brought home the tusks of thirteen 
 elephants. The knob-nosed Kafirs gave wonderful accounts 
 of their native land in their imperfect style, telling us that 
 
XXVI.] 
 
 MAKING MEAT TENDER. 
 
 259 
 
 minerals, and especially coffee, were so plentiful, and so pure 
 that their knobkerries and their beads were generally made 
 from it. 
 
 It is a very singular fact that the tenderness of meat, which 
 depends among other things on the amount of time it has been 
 kept, is greatly affected by electricity. The effect of a thunder¬ 
 storm upon animal food is well known. It turns milk sour and 
 meat bad. A moderate charge of electricity passed through 
 freshly-killed meat is said to make it instantly fit for cooking. 
 The same effect is produced at the Cape and elsewhere by 
 placing it in contact with certain plants. In the Transvaal I 
 have found that freshly-killed meat will become fit for eating 
 in a few hours by being wrapped up in fig-leaves. 
 
260 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 pilgrims’ rest. 
 
 We passed a night at Muller’s Farm, a very fine estate, about 
 ten miles this side of Pilgrims’ Rest. There was an ugly story 
 about some liquor which had been left during the war at a 
 store near this. 
 
 Ill-natured persons said that it was poisoned and left as 
 a temptation to the native rebels. I believe the truth to 
 have been that the word poison which was written on the 
 bottles was a hoax to prevent the contents being consumed 
 by the Volunteers and Free Lances, who were crossing 
 the country. The bottles are said to have been broken by a 
 gentleman, who felt that some serious evil might result. 
 
 I was told that Van Muller was the owner of several farms 
 at Pilgrims’ Rest. He sold one for 25 1. to a Mr. Strubos, who, 
 on finding gold, sold it for 6240Z. 
 
 Van Muller complained very much of the injury that was 
 being done to him by the watercourses which were being dug 
 across his lands in order to lead water to the gold diggings. 
 
 An enactment had been passed to include a certain area of 
 country within the gold-bearing region, giving very extensive 
 powers over the properties lying within it to certain appointed 
 commissioners. Amongst these was the right to give sanction 
 for watercourses to be dug to lead water to the mines. These 
 furrows were cut along the hill sides, in some instances for 
 miles, following carefully the curves of the mountain, and 
 having regard to contour. They were frequently executed by 
 
XXVII.] THE “ CHYING ” AND THE “ DLYT1L 
 
 261 
 
 self-taught engineers, and without theodolites or instruments, 
 yet such was the exactness in gradual depression that the best 
 instructed engineers could hardly have done better. 
 
 The proprietors of the lands have not the power of pre¬ 
 venting these aqueducts being made ; but a certain proportion 
 of the charges for the right of digging is accorded to them, 
 which gives them a very handsome remuneration, and I do not 
 believe that Muller had, in reality, much cause of complaint. 
 
 The descent into the valley from the upper plateau is the 
 most precipitous that I have yet witnessed for a wheeled car¬ 
 riage ; indeed, no one who had not seen a waggon go down 
 could believe it practicable. 
 
 We saw the mines of Pilgrims’ Rest for hours before we 
 reached them. The tents appeared like dots of white on the 
 landscape. As we approached near the opposite side of the 
 mountain it exactly represented an ant’s nest, the busy workers 
 creeping backwards and forwards in the golden sand. 
 
 We were kindly received by Mr. Bancroft, the most con¬ 
 siderable merchant at the mines, and put up, much I am afraid 
 to his own inconvenience. 
 
 Pilgrims’ Rest is situated on a spur of the Drakensberg 
 range, about 4000 feet above the sea, and not far from its 
 eastern edge, where there is a steep descent into the lower 
 country, which is little above the sea-level. It stands between 
 two rivers, the “ Crying ” and the “ Blyth ” river. These are 
 singular names, and have originated in the following circum¬ 
 stance :—On the first arrival of the pioneers, they left their 
 families and went below the mountain to seek a new country. 
 Not returning for a considerable time, the wives followed on 
 their track; on reaching the edge of the mountain, however, 
 they were afraid to descend, and set to crying, which gave the 
 name to the river. Near to Mac-Mac, regaining courage, they 
 tried to go down by another path, more towards the north. At 
 the northern river they met their husbands returning, which 
 
262 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 made them happy, and the second river received the name 
 of the “Blyth.” It is there that the gold diggings called 
 “Pilgrims’ Best” are situated. If at some future day an an¬ 
 tiquary sets to investigating the names of these places, his task 
 will be puzzling. No doubt there is not a village or hill in 
 England the name of which has not originated from the doings 
 of our forefathers. The men are forgotten, but the names of 
 the places called after them, or after their exploits, remain, 
 like fossils—marks of a state of society which has passed away 
 for ever. 
 
 On the following morning, under the guidance of Mr. 
 Gunn, the Commissioner, we were conducted for some miles 
 through the diggings. They showed too clearly the arduous 
 nature of the work, as well as its cruel uncertainty. The gold is 
 found in hollow pockets, beneath the rocks, into which it has 
 probably been washed down, from some high level, out of the 
 interior of the mountain. But these pockets are not only 
 covered over by the clayey soil, but by stupendous rocks and 
 boulders, some of them far more than half the size of a 
 moderately sized room. 
 
 To remove these, therefore, is an absolute necessity. 
 How and by what means they are to be rolled away is the prob¬ 
 lem. The general method appeared to be, to dig a large hole 
 below the rock, and then with levers and crowbars to cause the 
 huge stone to roll into the newly excavated hollow. This 
 completed, a careful search is made by digging dowm to the 
 surface of the solid rock. The search is rewarded, generally 
 indifferently, though occasionally magnificently. 
 
 At my visit Mr. Hoskyth was considered the most fortunate 
 miner; he had arrived with a very small purse, but was said 
 to be realising 300?. per week. 
 
 I never saw Kafirs work so hard as they did at these mines. 
 Their wages appeared not at all extravagant for their labour; 
 as they were rated at not more than twenty-five shillings per 
 
XXVII.] 
 
 TEE MISSING LINCII-PIN. 
 
 263 
 
 month, exclusive of their rations. The reason that their wages 
 are low is, that immediately below the highlands on which the 
 gold diggings are situated, there are countless numbers of 
 natives of various races, so that the supply of labour is 
 inexhaustible and continuous. 
 
 On the following morning, when we intended to have con¬ 
 tinued our journey to Spitskop, one of our horses had been let 
 out of the stable and was not to be found. The linch-pin also, 
 and the cover of the axle, had been removed, and the yokes of our 
 oxen had been taken away. During the night we had heard a 
 serenade by the diggers played upon tin pots, kettles, and banjos; 
 and the boy who slept under our waggon said he saw the linch¬ 
 pin being removed by this party, but he would not move lest he 
 should be thrashed. I suspect that the linch-pin was removed 
 at the instigation of the blacksmith, as he was the only person 
 able to repair the damage, and seemed by no means sur¬ 
 prised when informed of it. His charge for repairing it was 
 1Z. 5s. 
 
 On leaving, Mr. Sheppeard insisted on presenting me with 
 a specimen of gold, and on my firmly declining to accept it, 
 he allowed me to purchase a beautiful specimen of virgin-ore of 
 the weight of one ounce. 
 
 I then returned to Pretoria. In the interim, progress had 
 been made in the cantonment, which evidenced the unremitting 
 care of Colonel Montgomery. Watercourses had been cut, trees 
 planted, a bathing house erected for the troops, wooden bed¬ 
 steads made for the sick in large numbers, and a new hospital 
 built. The houses had been partially covered in, and many 
 other works had been carried out with zeal and energy. 
 
 I now used my best endeavours to complete the barracks 
 for the soldiers of the l-13th Regiment, in which the men gave 
 immense assistance, both in levelling the ground, in making the 
 bricks, in dressing the corner stones, in carpenter’s work, and 
 in preparing the thatching. It was now that the advantages 
 
264 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 of the workshops were most fully brought into light. No one 
 who witnessed the handiwork of the l-13tk Regiment, from their 
 Colonel downwards, would say that the British soldier is either 
 idle or unskilful. If such an accusation ever had any truth in 
 it, it was owing to the old want of system which encouraged 
 idleness, rather than useful habits, which cannot fail, not only 
 to be most valuable to the man himself and as a soldier, but 
 to the community in general. In place of the soldier who 
 used to return to his native village more ignorant of social 
 requirements than when he left it on the day of his enlist¬ 
 ment, a very large number of the army return, not only well 
 acquainted with the three R’s, but with confirmed habits of 
 regularity and sobriety. 
 
 The officers set the very best example of industry. Indeed, 
 they were obliged to work for themselves. I remember that on 
 one occasion an officer of the commissariat was at work mending 
 the leg of his table, which he finished very artistically. A master 
 carpenter, who was passing by, asked him if he would work for 
 him, saying, “ I see you know your business ; if you will 
 chum along with me, I will give you 18s. a day and your grub.” 
 
 An excellent canteen had also been established, not upon 
 the old grog-drinking principle, but to supply the soldiers with 
 every requisite article at a moderate price. I have heard the 
 officers ridiculed for their knowledge of the business of a grocer. 
 For my part, I think it highly creditable to them to have 
 devoted their time, gratuitously, to the increase of the soldiers’ 
 comfort, and to the proper saving of the expenses of our 
 army. I believe the invention of the canteen system is due to 
 Lord Airey, and I believe, also, that it is the canteen which has 
 given rise to the modern co-operative store, which has sprung 
 from that source rather than from the celebrated efforts of 
 the “ Rochdale Pioneers.” 
 
 Before finally quitting Pretoria, I desired to satisfy myself 
 in regard to the position it was requisite to choose for the 
 
XXVII.] 
 
 HOW TO CURE WIND. 
 
 265 
 
 cavalry, and to decide which road should be adopted for military 
 transport from Natal. With this object I again started south, 
 proceeding this time through Heidelberg. The country bore 
 the usual character, though more progress appeared to have 
 been made. Heidelberg showed evident signs of improvement. 
 Lying as it does on what is now the high road to the south, it 
 will, no doubt, become a thriving town. We passed through 
 it, but, missing the proper road, had to halt in the veldt. 
 
 One of our mules here became very ill, but he recovered,* 
 under the advice of a countryman, as the result of a singular 
 operation. The animal was swelled out, probably by eating 
 too much young grain. Our friend said, “ I should stab him 
 in the stomach; ” and, taking a penknife, he gave the poor 
 beast a blow driving the knife up to the handle, saying “ This 
 lets the wind out, I think he will soon recover.” It had an 
 excellent effect, the mule was relieved, and improved from that 
 moment. 
 
 Two days afterwards we found ourselves again in Stan- 
 derton. There I had directed an engineer officer and a 
 medical officer to meet me, together with the officer com¬ 
 manding the cavalry, so that after hearing their opinions 
 the situation of the new cavalry camp might be decided upon. 
 It was most advisable that there should be as little delay as 
 possible. The cold season was rapidly passing, and it was of 
 the most material consequence that the men, and if possible 
 the horses, should be secured before the hot and rainy season 
 set in. 
 
 We succeeded in our selection of the site of the new can¬ 
 tonment, beyond my most sanguine expectation, and I trust no 
 unforeseen circumstance has shown that its merits are not equal 
 to our expectations. 
 
 My next duty was to establish the best road. For the 
 purpose of examining the eastern one I struck across the 
 country and followed it carefully up to Pretoria. 
 
266 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [OiiAr. 
 
 At Browne’s farm the seams of coal lay very near the 
 house, and were so productive as to induce me to give 
 instructions that waggons and men should be sent over from 
 Pretoria to procure coal. 
 
 Mr. Browne had given 150Z. for his farm of 7300 acres 
 about three years before. He seemed pleased that he had last 
 year refused about ten times this amount, which was before 
 the coal had been found. 
 
 My staff officers entered with delight into the sport of 
 bog hunting, which in this country is quite equal, if it is not 
 superior, to anything that can be enjoyed in India. 
 
 The wild boar of the Transvaal is different from that of 
 India, or of Europe. It is a wiry, active, game animal, and 
 smaller in size. It is called the Stump ear, from a curious 
 bossy substance which grows near the eye. 
 
 It is found in the grass of the veldt, and generally near 
 water. On being discovered it sets off at a tremendous pace, 
 with its short tail erect in the air, and it requires a good 
 horse to overtake it. It is savage when pressed, and will turn 
 upon the horseman, and, as its tusks are quite equal in size 
 and sharpness to the common boar, it will give most dangerous 
 wounds. 
 
 My staff officers were unfortunately not provided with hog 
 spears, and although they attempted, when they heard of these 
 animals, to have rough substitutes forged, they found them 
 useless, and were obliged to use their short carbines. I have 
 no dorrbt that this will ere long be a favourite amusement 
 in South Africa. It will be most useful for developing the 
 attributes so useful in a soldier; eye, hand, a firm seat, 
 courage and activity. 
 
 There is an interesting salt pan north of Pretoria. It is 
 fully a mile across and from 300 to 400 feet deep. On de¬ 
 scending to the margin, we found it consisted of brine, mixed 
 with mud, which resembled ice covered with dirty snow. The 
 
XXVII.] 
 
 A SALT PAN. 
 
 267 
 
 pan was nearly circular. Some young native women were 
 employed in picking up salt and putting it in baskets. 
 
 The right of conveying the salt from this lake had been 
 sold annually for a very small sum by the late Government. 
 Just before the annexation the pan was pawned for 4007, under 
 the condition that if it should not be redeemed within six 
 months it should become the property of the lender. For¬ 
 tunately, just before the expiration of the period named, the 
 circumstance came to the knowledge of the admininistrator, 
 who signed an order for the advance of the money, and saved 
 the Government what may possibly within a year or two 
 produce more than 5007 per annum. 
 
 The salt mine at Pretoria is more valuable on account of 
 the high price which salt fetches in the Transvaal. I was 
 told that— 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 A ton of salt costs at Liverpool about . 
 
 . 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 Its freight to Durban is 
 
 . 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 Carriage to Pretoria ..... 
 
 . 20 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Transvaal duty ..... 
 
 . 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 Extras ....... 
 
 . 1 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 Profit to’trader ..... 
 
 . 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Total . 
 
 . £33 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 If this statement regarding salt is at all true, and I was 
 assured that it was, my readers can easily understand why 
 European goods are only to be bought in the country at a very 
 high price. 
 
268 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFUICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 START FOR THE RETURN JOURNEY. 
 
 We now bade farewell to Pretoria. 
 
 Shortly after leaving the city, we met parties of natives 
 returning from the Diamond Fields towards Secocoeni’s country. 
 Every one of these men was armed with, a rifle, the proceeds of 
 their labours at the mines, and they were returning with it to 
 their friends and their chief. 
 
 I examined some of these arms, and although they were 
 not all of superior manufacture, they were not at all bad, and 
 quite equalled those with which the 60tli Rifles were armed in 
 1830. These very rifles are now being used against our troops 
 in the north-east of the Transvaal. 
 
 About twenty miles from Pretoria is a remarkable mountain, 
 much resembling Gibraltar in its appearance. Near it we 
 came to a most fearful chasm in the road, over vdiich we were 
 fortunate enough to struggle, but where our mule cart came to 
 grief. 
 
 Before reaching Brandt Vley our cart had again to be 
 dragged out of a mud hole. 
 
 Here we met with a waggon with more than three or four 
 tons of goods, all of which had to be unloaded and carried over 
 the mud hole by hand, and reloaded on the other side. This 
 enabled the waggon to get past the obstruction, showing clearly 
 one of the reasons of the expense of land carriage, and vvhy each 
 article from the coast must, in addition to its original price, be 
 charged at the rate of from ( Jd. to 10 d. per lb. weight-. 
 
XXVIII.] 
 
 NIGHT TRAVELLING. 
 
 269 
 
 I had not sufficient time at my disposal to halt and examine 
 the caves near Wolverman’s, which are said to be very remark¬ 
 able and extensive. The evening was getting dark, and we had 
 to look out for a suitable spot where we could outspan and 
 encamp for the night, and where we could find water and some 
 fuel, as we had learned to be independent of everything else. 
 
 We passed no water for miles. When almost pitch dark we 
 met a buggy, drawn by a pair of ponies, the only vehicle except 
 ox-waggons which we had yet seen on the high road between the 
 two capital towns of the Transvaal. This cart contained the post 
 of the district, who gave us the pleasing information that for 
 eighteen miles more we should meet neither with water nor fuel 
 for man or beast. We therefore at once called a halt, outspanned 
 for an hour, and proceeded again in the darkness. One of my 
 orderlies held a lantern, and led the way, on my excellent 
 shooting horse called Cape Town, giving notice of the pit-falls, 
 mud holes, and other obstructions which lay in our path. The 
 driver in the Cape cart was provided with a powerful railway 
 whistle, so that he could give us notice when we got too far 
 ahead of him, or of any difficulties which he might encounter. 
 
 After three hours of this somewhat dangerous travelling we 
 received notice of a deep sprint or watercourse traversing the 
 road. We selected a spot to cross, which appeared in the darkness 
 to promise us success, but as we were on the point of emerging 
 from the muddy obstruction, a heavy splash and bang was fol¬ 
 lowed by the discovery that our pole was smashed into two 
 pieces, and was dangling between the wheel-mule’s legs. 
 
 Thus an outspan was now compulsory. Fortunately a violent 
 barking of dogs at some distance told us that a farm was 
 near. We sent there to purchase forage for our tired teams, 
 but the Boer declared that he possessed nothing. We had no 
 resource but to turn our eleven mules and ten horses adrift to 
 stray at their own discretion. Hastily running up my little 
 tent in the dark, I was glad enough to lie down on the ground, 
 
270 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 the rest of the men sleeping in and under the waggon and the 
 cart. First, however, we were lucky enough to find sufficient 
 fuel to cook a strong cup of coffee for all hands. 
 
 On waking on the morning of the 8th of August we found 
 that horses and mules had disappeared, and as there was a 
 heavy fog we had to wait till it cleared, when, after some careful 
 spooring and some hours’ delay, we regained our cattle, and 
 inspanned. 
 
 With the returning light we found that two parties of Kafirs 
 had rested in our immediate vicinity, one of which was pro¬ 
 ceeding to the Diamond Fields, the other returning. The con¬ 
 trast between those who composed the two parties was very 
 marked. 
 
 Those going were a set of miserable half-starved wretches, 
 with scarcely a rag to cover their nakedness, with no blankets, 
 and shivering with the morning cold. Each of those returning 
 was bearing his load of blankets. He had a good corduroy 
 suit and a wide-awake hat, with jaunty feathers, and was so 
 fat and so sleek-looking, that it was a pleasure to think that 
 he could secure such satisfactory results from industry in the 
 white man’s service. Of course each carried a rifle. 
 
 A point in South African travel, which deserves a remark, 
 is the almost certain immunity from camp pilferings. It is but 
 rare that any robberies of horses take place. I speak, of course, 
 of quiet times, when social disturbances are not abroad. 
 
 Natives may come near, but nothing is taken ; property may 
 be freely left about, yet none is “ lifted.” This will appear 
 singular to any one who has led a travelling-camp life in India, 
 as the first care cn camping there is to inform the head of the 
 neighbouring village that he is held responsible, in case any 
 theft takes place ; and as a small black mail is generally, as a 
 necessity, both expected and paid. 
 
 When about fifteen miles from Potchefstrom we arrived at 
 a fine farm called Wolverman’s. The owner was very civil and 
 
XXVIII.] 
 
 A PATRIARCH IN THE BUSH. 
 
 271 
 
 agreeable. He told me that thirty-five years before, his father 
 trekked from the colony and settled on this spot; that he brought 
 with him four married children and seven unmarried, being 
 accompanied by his servants, his stock, his waggons, and all his 
 earthly goods; that the old man had died last year, being 85 
 years of age, and had left lb'O children and grandchildren alive; 
 and that he himself had now 16 children and 21 grandchildren 
 alive, and the older ones were all doing well. 
 
 His estate measured about 30,000 acres of land, with a large 
 farm-house and extensive offices, which had been erected by the 
 industry of his father and Limself. He said he would have no 
 objection to trek further into the interior, and was ready to 
 part with his estate for 5000Z., but as gold has since been 
 reported to have been found in his neighbourhood, an altera¬ 
 tion may have taken place in his views since last year. 
 
 The farm may be a great deal in excess of 30,000 acres, for I 
 fancy that land is seldom carefully measured, the common method 
 being for a horseman to gallop from landmark to landmark, cal¬ 
 culating the size of the farm by the time of his doing so, and not 
 by any accurate measurement. It is said that at Pretoria, some 
 years since, a Government Commissioner measured more than 
 sixty farms of 6000 acres each in one day. Each farm was rated 
 at 3000 morgen, which is about equal to 6000 acres, but when 
 really measured it was frequently found to be 9000, or even 
 12 , 000 . 
 
 The measurement of one block of land, which was given out 
 as 160,000 acres, when triangulated was proved to equal 240,000. 
 
 So far as I can judge, I think the Transvaal is as fine as 
 any farming country in the world, and I have travelled in 
 many lands. 
 
 It is eminently suited for the cultivation of cereals, as the 
 ground is level. At present the progress of this truly magni¬ 
 ficent country is retarded on account of its very sparse 
 population. There is some difficulty, too, in getting out from 
 
272 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOU Til AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Europe. Moreover, the Government of the Transvaal has no 
 land to give away, the greatest part having been already in the 
 hands of Dutch farmers, who either do not occupy it or who culti¬ 
 vate only one-twentieth part of their holdings. It is said that 
 the only plan to overcome this difficulty is a very serious one, 
 and the only way to remove it would be by a heavy tax upon 
 the unoccupied farms. The tax should be imposed so gradually 
 that the owners would have time to get rid of their surplus. 
 In this manner the Government might in time acquire some 
 land which it could dispose of as I have indicated. The country 
 is very rich in resources, the climate is excellent, and it is a 
 pity that its advantages should not be developed by an 
 enterprising and industrious population. 
 
 Fearing some such law, the great land owners are now 
 most anxious to obtain settlers, and are ready to give them 
 land on very advantageous terms. 
 
 Near to Wolverman’s, an auriferous deposit has recently 
 been discovered. I quote from a report concerning it. 
 
 The Cape Commercial Bank have lately sent home seven 
 ounces of native gold that have been found at Blaauw bank, 
 in this neighbourhood ; if this exists to any considerable 
 extent a great revolution in this neighbourhood must 
 arise. 
 
 The life of the Wolverman’s family, common to all people 
 of their class, was very patriarchal. Twenty-four members of 
 the circle sat down to their meals three times each day, 
 the seniors towards the upper end of the board above the 
 salt. All passing strangers who appeared respectable were 
 welcome guests, and no remuneration was in general demanded 
 even for the forage for their horses from the farm. Every¬ 
 thing in the old-fashioned establishment forcibly reminded 
 me of the description of the good old days of England. 
 
 At Wolverman’s we met a disconsolate mason, returning to 
 
XXVIII.] 
 
 DOER CHILD BEETS NAMES. 
 
 273 
 
 liis native town. After some years of labour in the Free 
 State, during which he had saved a considerable sum, he had 
 determined to try his luck once and for all at the Diamond 
 Fields. He bad purchased a claim, and worked it steadily for 
 five weary months, assisted by half-a-dozen native labourers. 
 During this time he had never found a single diamond. He 
 had expended all his savings, and was now returning to begin 
 life again. This is the fate of many, but the success of the 
 few encourages the others, and there are those who, with no 
 better prospects originally than this mason had, find themselves 
 in a few years in such a state of prosperity as to enable them 
 to return home with considerable fortunes, or purchase exten¬ 
 sive properties in the colonies. 
 
 We met with very many curious names. A singular 
 custom prevails amongst the Boers of calling their children 
 after remarkable events which happened at the time of their 
 birth, such as “ Coronation,” when the king or queen was 
 crowned; “ Expedition,” on the occasion of a particular 
 expedition against the natives; or after the name of some 
 officer who has visited their farms, such as “Shepstone,” 
 “ Clerke,” or “ Barkly,” as this is the readiest means of 
 reminding them of the dates of their birth. 
 
 T 
 
m 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTII AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 POTCIIEFSTROM. 
 
 We arrived at Potchefstrom about noon, and were met by 
 the Landrost, wbo welcomed me most kindly to bis city, and 
 Chevalier Fossman, the Consul-General of Portugal, begged 
 us to accept rooms at his house. 
 
 Chevalier Fossman has been in South Africa for more than 
 twenty-five years. He is a man of great foresight and energy 
 of character, and has had the sagacity to see the great 
 position which this country is sure to fill in the world. By 
 prudence and careful management he has become the possessor 
 of an enormous and indeed princely property. Its extent 
 in the aggregate is at least 800,000 acres or 1250 square 
 miles, so that he is certainly the largest land owner in South 
 Africa. Nor must it be imagined that this immense area 
 consists of sandy deserts. His farms are all surveyed, all 
 registered, and a printed description of each is in his office. 
 With few exceptions, they consist of fine corn-growing lands, 
 largely abounding in minerals—coal, iron, lead, silver, and gold. 
 
 A large proportion of his property is so situated as to be 
 but little likely to suffer from the inroads of natives or from 
 frontier disturbances. 
 
 The Chevalier said to me, “ What I want is emigrants.” He 
 has seen many changes in his position since his arrival in the 
 Transvaal. I understood him to be a Swede by birth. One of 
 his earliest successful speculations is said to have been the 
 
XXIX.] 
 
 A GREAT LAND OWNER. 
 
 275 
 
 bringing down a giraffe, which he had purchased in the Zout- 
 spanberg for 227. 10s., through the desert Karoo to Cape 
 Town. He made 2007. by showing the animal in the different 
 towns he passed on his way, and he sold it for 1707. on his 
 arrival. 
 
 He was very nearly as successful with a hippopotamus or 
 sea-cow. His men had caught a fine specimen of this ferocious 
 beast, for which he was to receive 5007., but when he looked 
 into the pit in which it had been confined, on the following 
 morning:, he found that the Kafirs had killed it during the 
 night. 
 
 O 
 
 The immense area of country which he possesses has been 
 obtained by purchase from the individuals who received it 
 in government grants, no doubt frequently at little more than 
 nominal prices. The Chevalier was using every endeavour to 
 induce settlers to come to the country, and offering most 
 advantageous conditions for his farms. He said he was willing 
 to let them on the terms of receiving half produce, and that he 
 would also lend the use of his ploughs and oxen, while at the 
 termination of ten years or so the farm would become the 
 property of the settler. 
 
 These terms appear to me most advantageous to emigrants, 
 more especially when the excellence of the climate and the 
 fertility of the soil are taken into account. 
 
 The tax, as I understood, upon each farm of 6000 acres is 
 about 17. 16s. per annum, or about 2007. a year for the 120 
 farms. Sorry as I should be to recommend anything that 
 would be disagreeable to the Chevalier, I should like to see 
 the unoccupied land more heavily taxed, which would not only 
 be of immense advantage to the Transvaal and to federated 
 South Africa, but would even prove a benefit to the land owners 
 themselves. 
 
 I am now constantly asked the question as to whether I 
 can recommend young men to emigrate to the Transvaal, 
 
 T 2 
 
276 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 and what- a young man should do when he gets there. My 
 answer is to ask : “ Is your friend strictly sober ? is he prudent, 
 painstaking and methodical? is he possessed of a tolerably 
 good constitution? and can he command from 500?. to 
 1000 ?. ?” 
 
 In that case he will be welcomed in the new country, 
 without much of an introduction, but he must be careful on 
 his arrival not to involve himself in any speculation until he 
 has learned something of the Dutch language and gained some 
 insight into the people. Above everything he must be careful 
 how he engages in farming operations before he has become 
 well acquainted with the country. His character will be very 
 soon known, and his services greedily sought; after which, 
 time and his own sagacity will soon win for him a com¬ 
 petence. 
 
 The drawback to intending emigrants to the Transvaal, and 
 especially to those with families, is the great distance which 
 they are compelled to travel before they can arrive at the 
 field of action, and the consequent expense and loss of time 
 involved. Facilities are now placed in their way by English 
 companies. 
 
 It was reported in South Africa that the King of the Bel¬ 
 gians was once desirous of making an arrangement with the 
 Transvaal Republic for an exclusive emigration from Belgium 
 to that country. There are no people who would meet with a 
 more earnest welcome-. Their industry and aptitude for all 
 sorts of work are proverbial. The Belgians are excellent 
 artisans, generally abstemious, and there can be no doubt of 
 their success. 
 
 It was stated in the newspapers that Baron Silys de Fason 
 advised President Burgers to put Sir T. Shepstone over the 
 frontier into Natal, to prevent the organisation of Colonel 
 Weatherley’s volunteers, and to place their chief under arrest. 
 He was convinced that Sir Theophilus would never make the 
 
XXIX.] nORSE BREEDING IN THE TRANSVAAL. 
 
 277 
 
 annexation by force. This advice, I can understand, might 
 have been politic, as he might have had hopes of making a 
 better arrangement for his countrymen with the Republic than 
 with the British Government. But the statement adds: 
 
 At the same time I discouraged the emigration of my country¬ 
 men to this country. For those reasons I was perhaps a 
 “calamity to the Transvaal,” but I preferred to study the 
 interests of Belgium, and my conduct met the approval of 
 the Government. 
 
 I cannot understand the Baron’s views, for it is almost 
 incredible that he can have supposed that the Republic would 
 have been allowed to annex itself to Belgium. 
 
 I made an excursion to a neighbouring farm of 10,000 
 acres, which had lately been purchased by Captain Bail lie, 
 formerly an officer in the Blues. His occupation is horse- 
 breeding. With this view he has imported some of the best 
 thoroughbred stock procurable in England, and purchased 
 from forty to fifty mares in the colony and the Free States. 
 The greatest enemy that he has is the sickness to which 
 horses in this portion of the Transvaal are so liable. I 
 strongly advised him to purchase another estate near 
 Standerton, where his stock could graze on the high veldt 
 during the hot season in comparative immunity, and where, 
 should he desire to change his own position temporarily, he 
 would meet with many members of his former profession. 
 
 Captain Baillie had selected the Transvaal as his residence 
 from the known excellence of climate for those who cannot 
 bear the damp and cold winters of England. 
 
 At home he had never enjoyed a day’s real health, whereas, 
 both in the Free States and in the Transvaal, he had never 
 known a day’s sickness. 
 
 I next drove round the city. Great improvements were in 
 
278 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiap. 
 
 progress, and I was informed that property had doubled in value 
 since the annexation. 
 
 Opposite to one store I observed many hundreds of pigs of 
 lead, with the word “ Bray ” stamped upon them. I was told 
 that they came from a lead mine not very distant from the 
 city, a successful speculation of two young men who came into 
 this country as engineers. I learned that they had purchased 
 the farm on which the mine is for about 100£; that the lead 
 is very pure; that the silver which is extracted from it pays 
 the expenses of working, aud that the profit already accruing 
 from it amounts to many thousands a year. 
 
 This lead does not find its market by leaving the Transvaal 
 for the south, but is sold to traders on the Limpopo and the 
 Zambesi for elephant shooting, and to the natives to supply 
 the thousands of muskets which have been permitted to pass 
 into their possession, from which many a bullet may yet find its 
 billet in a British soldier’s breast. 
 
 There was an amusing story regarding the Laudrost. A 
 happy couple came into Potchefstrom from the country to be 
 “ spliced.” The bridegroom, having succeeded in obtaining the 
 loan of a hat from one storekeeper, and a pair of boots from 
 another, went with his young woman to the Landrost and had 
 the matrimonial knot securely tied. The ceremony over, the 
 Landrost found that the happy man had not the means to 
 satisfy his demand for fees. His worship, therefore, refused to 
 give the bride up, and detained her in court until the money 
 should be forthcoming. The man’s frantic endeavours to raise 
 15s. were heartrending, but he at last succeeded. 
 
 We now encamped near Mander’s house. Mander is a 
 pleasant old person, the owner of a fine, though not very 
 extensive, farm, possessing some good pans of water. Finding 
 the game plentiful, we determined to go in pursuit of them. 
 We were well rewarded for so doing, for we brought home five 
 bluebuck and two wildebeest. In the afternoon we came upon 
 
XXIX.] 
 
 FOLLOW MY LEADER. 
 
 279 
 
 a fine pan of water, and as the neighbouring couutry was dry 
 for many miles, all the game, wildebeest, blessbok, and spring¬ 
 bok, had collected in thousands in its neighbourhood. Studying 
 well the quarters from which the wind blew and circling round 
 widely to windward (for in Africa the game always run up 
 wind) we made sure that the entire flock would pass within 
 a few hundred yards. 
 
 Alarmed by our appearance, yet obedient to the laws of 
 their nature, the mass started, and for a considerable time the 
 plain appeared literally alive with the countless numbers which 
 defiled before us ; hundreds and hundreds of wildebeests wildly 
 dashing for their lives across the veldt, intermixed with 
 thousands of blessbok and springbok. The pace was terrific, 
 and the dust blinding, so as to render any certain aim impos¬ 
 sible ; but it was a magnificent sight, such as can seldom be 
 seen but in the wide-spread plains of South Africa. The bless¬ 
 bok, and in fact all antelopes, are in their nature much like 
 sheep, and religiously follow their leader, perfectly regardless or 
 
 unconscious where he is conducting them. Mr. 0-, who had 
 
 a large tract of land in the east of the Free States, told me that 
 upon one occasion he came across a very large herd of blessbok, 
 which rushed towards a steep precipice, where, being hard 
 pressed, the leader jumped over, and each of the animals suc¬ 
 cessively followed. The descent was over the sheer face of the 
 rock, and many perished below; the remainder, threading 
 their way up a ravine, came again in sight of the tail of the 
 herd, which was pressing wildly on the path they themselves 
 had taken. Obedient, however, to their instinct, they followed 
 on, and a second time leapt the precipice. This extraordinary 
 movement continued for some time, many more being added 
 each time to those who perished, aud the result being that 
 several waggon loads of dead deer were collected and skinned 
 The story may seem extraordinary to those who are not ac- 
 
280 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. Chap. XXIX. 
 
 quainted with the nature of the game on these plains; but it 
 is by no means incredible by those who know the country. 
 
 On the following day we moved on to Bultfontein. Here, 
 through the kind attention of Major Lanyon,the Administrator 
 of Griqualand West, my mail reached me, as he had directed 
 a policeman to convey it a distance of ninety-five miles across 
 the veldt. 
 
( 281 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 THE TRANSVAAL, FARMING-SPORT. 
 
 The farmers of the Transvaal are excellent people, but children 
 in the art of government. They complained of the war, and 
 desired the remission of war-taxes. They complained that they 
 were now bound to pay taxes, not at their own pleasure, but 
 at regular periods, and that they were compelled to attend the 
 courts of justice when summoned. Although most of them had 
 far more land than they could manage, everybody desired more. 
 To show how primitive these Boers are, I may narrate the 
 following story :— 
 
 A schoolmaster was lately appointed in Zoutspanberg. One 
 of his earliest lessons was to teach the children that the world 
 turns on its own axis. He also endeavoured to make them 
 understand the revolutions of the heavenly bodies. The 
 children went home and were impertinent to their parents, and 
 told them that the earth went rouud the sun. The elders of 
 the district met and consulted regarding these new doctrines, 
 and finally agreed to refer the subject to the minister, who 
 requested the schoolmaster to explain. The schoolmaster said : 
 “ I teach them nothing but the movements of the heavenly 
 bodies, and that the earth revolves round the sun. The minister 
 answered, “ Well, this may be true, no doubt, and what the 
 earth does in Holland ; but it would be more convenient at 
 present if in the Zoutspanberg you would allow the sun still to 
 go round the earth for a few years longer; we do not like 
 sudden changes in such matters.” The schoolmaster took the 
 
282 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 hint, and for the present the sun is allowed in Zoutspanberg 
 to move as heretofore. The power of a minister of a parish is 
 very great. A great deal depends upon him for the improve¬ 
 ment and well-being of the town. Many a time it has been said 
 to me when I observed that a town was flourishing, “Yes, we are 
 fortunate in our minister; ” and when it was falling backward it 
 was, “ Ah, all will alter when we get rid of our present minister.” 
 
 To show the minister’s influence over his parishioners, I 
 will quote from a local paper a circumstance that occurred in 
 the colony 
 
 This town is in a state of excitement at present, owing to the 
 minister of the Dutch Reformed Church having refused to 
 present a young lady to the congregation. The uncle of the 
 girl thus details the circumstances in a letter of complaint 
 to the minister. “ Some months ago you confirmed my 
 niece; last week you refused to present her, as a member of 
 the church, a girl of unimpeachable character, before the 
 congregation. Why? Because on Old Year’s Night she 
 danced in a private house with some young friends. The 
 sin was so unpardonable in your sight that you at once went 
 to my sister, the mother of the girl, a poor widow, and told 
 her with much Christian charity and admonition that you 
 could not 4 present ’ her daughter, but that she would have 
 to do penance three months for her sins, thus putting her 
 under the ban of the church.” 
 
 One evening I was resting in my tent while a knot of 
 Kafirs were conversing outside. I heard the following remarks. 
 A Kafir who had been partly educated at a Mission Station 
 was expatiating upon the grandeur of the Queen, when he 
 was answered by another, who said: “ Why, friend, we are all 
 well aware of the grandeur of her Majesty; not only is she 
 the Queen of the Ocean, but her son is the Prince of Whales, 
 ‘ Unconi’ Yeamanina.” 
 
XXX.] 
 
 MY MILITARY ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 283 
 
 On the following morning a serious dispute as to the 
 annexation of the Transvaal arose between two young Dutch 
 farmers who accompanied us. From arguments they soon came 
 to blows, and descending from their horses squared up in 
 good English style. They had many rounds. The endeavours 
 of the partisan of England were directed to knocking the wind 
 out of his adversary with his fists, while the supporter of the 
 late Republic attempted to effect a like result by planting blow 
 after blow adroitly in the pit of his adversary’s stomach with 
 his right foot, causing him to gulp most strenuously. Fortu¬ 
 nately his foot was only encased in a light shoe, of the untanned 
 leather usually worn by the Boers. 
 
 I had now finished my military arrangements in the Trans¬ 
 vaal, stationing the main body at Pretoria, and the mounted 
 force at Standerton, and establishing an intermediate position 
 at Newcastle between the Transvaal and Natal. 
 
 In case of disturbance or disaffection I saw that there were 
 many military elements which could be called out in addition 
 to her Majesty’s troops, and that a considerable number of 
 European gentlemen, upon whom every reliance could be 
 placed, were very ready to give their assistance. 
 
 I proposed, in case of necessity, to form two separate 
 forces from this civil element: one composed of young Dutch 
 farmers, all excellent horsemen, well acquainted with the 
 country and the natives, very hardy in their natures, men who, 
 accustomed to privations, can resist the climate by night and 
 the sun by day; and who, if led by British officers, would 
 ere long, I feel convinced, emulate the Cossack, of whose 
 attributes they possess so large a share. 
 
 The next would be a force raised from those from our parent 
 island, who have come out to make their fortunes and failed, 
 partly perhaps from their own recklessness and want of fore¬ 
 sight, and partly through the force of circumstances. 
 
 These men are full of energy, dash and bravery, and though 
 
284 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [ClIAP. 
 
 very difficult to command, they would, under well-selected 
 British officers of determination, prove most valuable. 
 
 I intended that both these corps should be mounted, and I 
 have every reason to believe that my recommendations have 
 been accepted, and that their services are proving most 
 valuable. 
 
 There were excellent officers living in the Transvaal, who 
 had proved themselves thoroughly capable, both in Europe and 
 in India, such as Colonel Witherby and Sir Maurice Barlow, 
 who, I am sure, would readily give their services to the 
 Government if occasion required. Added to these, slender 
 police forces of Europeans and native Zulus were already 
 organised, which could readily be increased. They were com¬ 
 manded by a very superior officer of the Royal Artillery. 
 
 It is now proper that I should offer some remarks upon 
 Shooting in the Transvaal. My military duties never per¬ 
 mitted me to spend the time requisite to go in search of large 
 game, such as the elephant, but with most other kinds I was 
 very successful. 
 
 Although I had had great experience in other countries, 
 I found that, like everything else, the art of hunting in 
 South Africa requires to be learned. The points which it is 
 requisite first to consider are, what descrijffion of shooting will 
 satisfy the sportsman? what time has he at his disposal? and 
 what amount of money does he propose to devote to his 
 amusement ? 
 
 To go to South Africa for the purpose of shooting pheasants 
 and partridges, and such small game, would be ludicrous, 
 though it exists, and is still found abundantly in the colony. 
 Where it is common, the covert, however, is thick and impene¬ 
 trable, causing great fatigue in its pursuit. 
 
 The shooting therefore in South Africa may be widely 
 placed under three heads: 
 
 1st. The elephant, giraffe, and rhinoceros. 
 
LARGE GAME IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 285 
 
 XXX.] 
 
 2nd. The buffalo, eland, hartebeest, sea-cow, zela. 
 
 3rd. The antelope, the gnu or wildebeest, the blessbuck, 
 springbuck, and other small deer, such as the diker, the blue- 
 buck, the bushbuck. 
 
 To enjoy elephant shooting, it is now requisite to devote to 
 the sport a long period, at least eighteen months, and to make 
 careful preparation for it. With this object I should recom¬ 
 mend a waggon and oxen to be purchased, and the start to be 
 made from Tort Elizabeth. The waggon will cost about 140Z., 
 and sixteen oxen at least 160Z. Two or three native ser¬ 
 vants should be engaged, and in addition a large supply 
 of rifles, ammunition, and fowling-pieces or guns, as they 
 are universally called in South Africa, should be taken from 
 England, as presents for chiefs and headmen, and clothes and 
 handkerchiefs and cheap ornaments for the women. 
 
 Some persons imagine that by laying in a trading stock 
 their expenses will be covered, but I believe this to be a great 
 mistake. Your party become traders or competitors with the 
 merchants in the markets, and instead of commanding their 
 assistance, you will naturally meet with hindrance, and the 
 chiefs will not receive you with the same respect and cordiality 
 as if you came to them as English gentlemen, travelling not for 
 profit but for amusement. 
 
 It is quite true that two officers under my command, start¬ 
 ing from King William’s Town, travelled to Potchefstrom, 
 and thence by Bangv'angwallo into Lo Benguela’s country, 
 and having made great friends with this chief, were permitted 
 by him to enter his elephant preserves. They were fortunate 
 enough to kill fourteen elephants, the tusks of which were pre¬ 
 sented to them by the chief, so that their ivory nearly covered 
 their expenses. But these officers went under very exceptional 
 circumstances. They took with them letters from the Hffih 
 Commissioner in South Africa, and Lo Benguela, being anxious 
 to court his favour, said at once that he would be delighted to 
 
286 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 obey the Governor’s wishes, and give his servants what they 
 desired. But the affair had somewhat of an awkward termina¬ 
 tion, for when the officers left, the chief wrote to his Excellency 
 and said that lie had fulfilled his desires, that his servants had 
 met with some success, and he requested that two pieces of 
 cannon might be sent him in return. This request was a very 
 embarrassing one, as Lo Benguela’s country borders on the 
 Transvaal, and he might at any moment have been at war 
 with us. 
 
 The Duke of Edinburgh killed elephants much nearer at 
 hand, near the mouth of the Knysna river, between Mossel 
 Bay and Port Elizabeth, but it was under exceptional circum¬ 
 stances. There are very dense and extensive forests in that 
 locality reaching almost down to the sea, in which several herds 
 of elephants are now to be found; but great care and circum¬ 
 spection were used to have the animals spoored and watched, 
 and every possible arrangement was made to insure success. 
 
 There are herds of wild elephants within thirty miles 
 of Port Elizabeth, on the line which the railroad has taken, and 
 they have been reported as having committed some damage to 
 the railroad, as the following extract from the ‘ Uitenhage 
 Times ’ will show : 
 
 Elephants. —We (‘Uitenhage Times’) hear that a large troop 
 of elephants have been seen near Grassridge. They have 
 been doing a great deal of damage in the neighbourhood, 
 and our informant states that the country, after they have 
 crossed it, looks more like a well-used waggon-road than 
 anything else. The elephants are said to be over one hun¬ 
 dred strong; and the farmers are talking of organising a 
 party to go in pursuit of them. Their haunts may be easily 
 reached from Prentice Kraal, and we wonder that some of 
 our celebrated rifle shots do not take advantage of the 
 occasion to win an everlasting name for themselves. 
 
XXX.] 
 
 HOW TO GET AT ELEPHANTS. 
 
 287 
 
 Living as they do in comparative civilisation, these animals 
 are far more wary and savage than those which are to be 
 found farther from home. 
 
 No doubt other directions may be taken for elephant and 
 rhinoceros, but the falls of the Zambesi appear to be the 
 best country, and they can only be visited under the good 
 auspices of the Chief of the Matabele, whose country lies 
 between the Limpopo and the Zambesi rivers. 
 
 Some travellers have been exceedingly fortunate in gaining 
 the good opinion and friendship of the potentates in the 
 Matabele country. The success of one noted sportsman was 
 owing to the fancy which was conceived for him by the chief’s 
 daughter, who, having great influence with her father, was able 
 to obtain for him the permission which he coveted, of hunting 
 at pleasure in the choicest part of his elephant grounds. 
 
 As regards the shooting in the neighbourhood of and on 
 the Limpopo, Mr. Bulton, who is thoroughly acquainted with 
 the country, recommended me to write to Mr. Cox, who, he 
 said, would make arrangements with a Boer farmer, of the 
 name of Barron Foister, who resides near Zoutspanberg. He 
 is a famous hunter, and he goes every season—about the end of 
 June—towards the borders of the Limpopo, into the forests, 
 which abound with game, although not perhaps with the ele¬ 
 phant and rhinoceros. By making timely plans with Barron 
 Foister, there can be but little doubt that splendid sport would 
 be obtained. Unfortunately, however, the whole of the 
 country is at this moment in a very excited state, and the 
 natives very well armed, so that it might prove hazardous to 
 form shooting parties in these districts. 
 
 The third class of shooting is that which I had many 
 opportunities of enjoying, both in the Free States and in 
 the Transvaal, and to which in the course of my tours I have 
 frequently alluded. 
 
 Although it is looked upon with disdain by the great 
 
288 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 hunters of South Africa, I am not sure but that it affords 
 more enjoyment than either of the former. One cause of its 
 being despised by the regular huntsman, is that it affords no 
 profit; but in my opinion the enjoyment of hard gallops over 
 the plains after the game, and the pleasure of successfully 
 stalking them, and bringing them down, repay any little hard¬ 
 ship and privation which may be met with in its pursuit. 
 
 In the high veldt the wildebeest, the blessbuck, and the 
 springbuck are almost the only antelopes which are now to he 
 met with. These inhabit the open plains, as the blackbuck 
 with its beautiful spiral horns does in India. 
 
 The eland, the koodoo, the zebra, and the hartebeest, which 
 were largely to be found in the Free State in the days of 
 Harris, have almost entirely disappeared. 
 
 There is also the stump-ear pig, which is now shot in large 
 numbers, but which would afford us fine runs and as much 
 sport with the hog-spear as any pig in India, with this advan¬ 
 tage, that there is better galloping-ground on the high veldt 
 in the Transvaal, where it is found, than is generally to be met 
 with in the East Indies. 
 
 I may mention that in my opinion the best ground for 
 this kind of hunting in the Transvaal is to be found in a tract 
 of country on the Widge river, the Iiheinoster river, and the 
 Elephant river, about sixty miles to the east of Pretoria. 
 
 For these sports good horses are required; but as the 
 winter months—June, July, August, and September—are the 
 most agreeable to enjoy them, and the country is specially 
 cool and free from horse sickness at that time, salted horses are 
 scarcely required, and unsalted animals at about 30Z. each may 
 readily be purchased in the Free States or in the Transvaal. 
 
 The sporting in the colony of the Cape of Good Hope 
 itself, is of a different character. In the neighbourhood of 
 Port Elizabeth, at the hospitable farm of Mr. Lovemore, at 
 Bushy Park, near Kinblebosh, it is excellent; as well as in 
 
XXX.] 
 
 GAME NEAll THE CAPE. 
 
 289 
 
 the Perie Bush, in the lower Amatotas, the great stronghold of 
 Sandilli in the last war. 
 
 Bushbuck shooting may be had, but for this beaters driving 
 the woods are required. Lower down in the colony, and in the 
 neighbourhood of the Cape, the bluebuck, the diker, the rey- 
 buck, and steinbuck are commonly met with. They are generally 
 killed by the Dutch farmers from their horses, and in this sport 
 they are exceedingly expert. The country where they resort 
 is excessively dry and parched, and the habits of these bucks 
 are in accordance with it. I quote in regard to them some 
 remarks by Commandant Bowker, a veteran sportsman, and 
 a naturalist after whom many rare new species of insects have 
 been named. 
 
 Wild bucks feed chiefly at night while the dew is falling, or 
 during damp or wet days, and, I think, seldom or never 
 drink water. The bushbuck, bluebuck, diker, reybuck, and 
 steinbuck are found in spots on the coast, where fresh water 
 is not obtainable. Having for many years taken an interest 
 in the subject, and whenever an opportunity offered ex¬ 
 amined pools, I seldom, or never, found traces of any of 
 the above-named bucks frequenting them for drinking. 
 The question is an interesting one. Sheep, I have no doubt, 
 if confined to a paddock, would soon follow the same course; 
 feed during the night, and cool of the morning and evening, 
 and rest during the heat of the day. There would be, how¬ 
 ever, one great difference. Wild as well as tame bucks 
 
 prefer to grass the leaves of trees, bushes, or succulent 
 plants, fruit, and roots (the bitter apple as well as the potato 
 being great favourites with the diker). As I have stated, 
 my notes apply to the coast line; but I have no doubt that 
 the antelopes of the interior are much less dependent upon 
 water than the sheep and cattle. 
 
 The above remarks will show that no sporting tour can be 
 
 u 
 
290 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 raade in Soutli Africa, without devoting some little time to it, 
 and that one cannot be carried out without some considerable 
 amount of expense. For elephant shooting in the interior, 
 eighteen months at least must be taken, and a first outlay of 
 at least 1000Z., in waggons and horses, cattle, rifles, ammunition, 
 presents to chiefs, &c., may be calculated on. 
 
 Once these are provided, the expense of living is little more 
 than nominal, and the wages to tbe attendants are by no 
 means large. 
 
 If good fortune attends the expedition, the prices on the sale 
 of tbe above articles will equal their first cost; but oxen may 
 die, waggons may break down, chiefs may be found difficult 
 to deal with, and fever and disease may overtake the party. 
 Success is probably as common as failure ; but neither can be 
 commanded, though the sportsmanlike qualities of those who 
 undertake the adventure will have much to do with the result. 
 
 For shooting either below the High Veldt, or for milder 
 work on the plains, the chief expense is that of horses and their 
 forage, the last being exceedingly dear. The feed of each horse 
 averages 3s. or 4s. a day. Otherwise, if luxuries are not a 
 necessity, there is no great expense attendant on a tent life, 
 and the freedom and health which are inseparable from it 
 amply compensate for the small inconveniences which must be 
 encountered. 
 
 Second-class shooting may be obtained by landing at 
 Durban in Natal, and thence proceeding to the Gold Fields, 
 where a waggon with oxen can be hired at about \l. sterling 
 per day, including the driver. Horses can be purchased in the 
 eastern part of the Transvaal, at Utrecht, or in the neighbour¬ 
 hood of Newcastle, in Natal. 
 
 The safest and best time to start from the Gold Fields is the 
 commencement of June. It is the healthiest and the coolest 
 season in the year, and the dreaded fly is then least active. 
 
 At the present moment, an expedition towards the low 
 
XXX.] 
 
 THE TSETSE FLY. 
 
 291 
 
 country, below the Gold Fields, would be difficult, and open 
 to danger, as the country is disturbed by the war with Cetewayo, 
 and towards the Limpopo by the attitude of Secocoeni and 
 other chiefs on the north of Zoutspanberg. 
 
 But these things will pass over: and now that energetic 
 steps are being taken to repress the great sale of arms and 
 ammunition in the colony, and, if the report be true, that the 
 Portuguese are repressing the trade from Delagoa Bay as much 
 as possible, it is probable that large game shooting in this 
 country will improve, rather than fall off, as was the case in 
 India after the disarmament of the natives. 
 
 There is a good garni country in the low lands of the east, 
 towards Delagoa Bay, in the neighbourhood of the Limbouba 
 Mountains, where the Tsetse fly abounds. 
 
 The Tsetse is very dangerous to cattle. Salted horses must 
 be bought at great cost, or cheap and wretched ones purchased 
 with the knowledge that they must be allowed to perish after 
 having carried their master for a few days in pursuit of the 
 game, or sporting must be carried on on foot, as it has often 
 been with much success. 
 
 The Tsetse fly has been often described, and it is now 
 beyond dispute that its bite is deadly to horses. It would 
 appear to inhabit the low lands, in the neighbourhood of roads 
 where neither horses, oxen, mules, nor dogs escape its bite. 
 
 On one of the Government maps the localities it inhabits 
 are marked. These boundaries scarcely vary in the course of 
 years, not so much as to alter the outline given. I insert 
 a note which 1 took down from the lips of a hunter regarding 
 this singular insect. 
 
 The Tsetse occupies districts, each of an area of six square 
 miles, situated within well-known regions. It does not stick 
 perpetually to define localities. The hunters inform them¬ 
 selves, by inquiries from the Kafirs, as to its present abode, and 
 then take especial care to tether their horses during the day, a 
 
292 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 few yards beyond its limits. It is perfectly safe to pass through 
 these limits during the night. 
 
 The hunters, therefore, take care to complete their march 
 through the Tsetse location before the morning light. One 
 bite will kill a dog, three any horse or ox. The fly is quite in¬ 
 nocuous to wild game or goats. The bite is not more dangerous 
 to a man than that of a musquito. 
 
 On a horse being bitten the first appearance is that the 
 part assumes a soft pulpy feel, a yellow matter exuding from 
 it. The horse soon sickens and dies, and even should he recover 
 he seldom regains his former health or strength. The 'Tsetse 
 fly is but a little bigger than a house fly, with a red striped 
 body and stiff wings. 
 
 Mr. Wood, a very notable and experienced hunter on the 
 Zambesi, possesses the power of being able to distinguish the 
 position which the Tsetse fly is occupying by its humming- 
 noise, so that he precedes his waggon a few paces, and as soon 
 as he hears the fly, changes the direction of his march. 
 
 It is said of Paul Kruger, that he had his waggons drawn 
 by two natives, when he shot on the Limpopo. 
 
 Dr. Kirk, at Zanzibar, has been making investigations into 
 the distribution of the Tsetse fly in Eastern Africa.. 
 
 He finds that all along the road from the coast to Central 
 Ugogo, the present limit of exploration, there are wide districts 
 infested by it, but that there is some reason to hope that they 
 are isolated and may be avoided when their exact limits have 
 been clearly known and defined. Dr. Kirk reports, that the 
 rule holds good everywhere, that where the fly is found large 
 game are numerous; but he is of opinion that it by no means 
 follows the game in their migrations, though it undoubtedly 
 disappears when they are killed off. A curious circumstance 
 is, that the natives appear to be well acquainted with the 
 precise limits of the fly region, and are able to keep their 
 cattle in safety quite close to it. No preventive or antidote 
 
XXX.] IIOW RAILWAYS ARE MADE IN AFRICA. 
 
 293 
 
 has yet proved successful, and if ordinary beasts of burden are 
 to be used to supersede the troublesome pagazi, the only way, 
 according to Dr. Kirk, is to choose such a line of road as will 
 entirely avoid the infested regions, or to cross them in a 
 narrow part in the night time. 
 
 Having settled matters in the Transvaal, I prepared to 
 return to Cape Town and started for Port Elizabeth. 
 
 At the Kabonsie river, the railway from East London to 
 Queenstown was rapidly progressing, but ere many weeks it 
 was seriously interfered with by the war. These railroads 
 are being carried out upon a departmental and not upon a 
 contract system. The departmental system has the advantage 
 of securing a vast amount of patronage. The contract system, 
 under due supervision, would in all probability prove quicker 
 and more economical. Small sub-contracts are made, and, if 
 the following paragraph is correct, with very great profit to 
 those who undertake them— 
 
 Not quite twelve months ago, a man walked up to a farmer’s 
 house, and after some little hesitation, asked for the loan of 
 a 51 . note. In explanation, he told the farmer that he had 
 an opportunity of taking a “small contract,” and over and 
 above the little money he had he wanted 51 . to enable him 
 to enter upon it. The farmer advanced the money, and 
 early in the succeeding month it was returned with many 
 thanks. This incident led the farmer to invite him to spend 
 the Sunday at his house; he did so, and they had some talk 
 upon railway matters. 
 
 About a year afterwards the man announced his intention of 
 going home. “ How’s that ?” inquired the farmer, “ I thought 
 you had plenty of work.” “ So I have,” replied the man, 
 “ but the fact is, I have saved a little money and intend to 
 go home.” “ Well,” observed the farmer, “ you seem to be 
 satisfied with a little, for it cannot be very much.” “ I don’t 
 
294 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiap. 
 
 know so much about that,” retorted the mason, “ in my part 
 of the country, 1500Z. is thought a good deal of.” “ Do you 
 mean to say,” inquired the farmer, “that you have made 
 1500Z. since you have been on this line ? ” “I have not 
 only done that,” replied the man, “ but I mean to say, that 
 when you kindly lent me that 5Z. I had only 15Z. to my 
 name.” “ But it’s not twelve months ago,” said the farmer. 
 “ It’s nine months at the end of last month,” continued the 
 mason. 
 
 The farmer then became more inquisitive, and the man told 
 him that when he made the contract he could hardly believe 
 his own eyes and ears; that those above him must have been 
 the greatest noodles under the sun not to know that he 
 would make a pot of money by it; that had he been longer 
 in the colony instead of a new comer, he would have made a 
 great deal more. 
 
 As a good illustration of the wants of the natives, I may 
 mention that the first goods train brought up spirits to King 
 William’s Town, and the first train down took away wool. 
 
 While I had been away, affairs in the colony had been 
 growing more serious. The feeling of alarm had increased 
 on the frontier, the armaments of the natives having raised their 
 hopes. Our want of defence and the disorganisation of our 
 arrangements had disquieted the colonists. I shall hereafter 
 show in what respect the colonial forces were defective, and 
 how the absurd jealousy which the Cape Government exhibited 
 of Imperial control or advice had prevented these defects being 
 remedied. These errors did not arise from want of warning. I 
 had w'ritten letter after letter till I saw that it was useless. 
 Article after article had appeared in the public prints. Speech 
 after speech been made in the Assembly and in the provinces, 
 and a Defence Commission had reported specially upon the 
 
XXX.] 
 
 WAR IN KRELI'S COUNTRY. 
 
 295 
 
 While encamped on the Kabonsie, Mr. Charles Griffiths, 
 the Eesident of Basuto land, called at the camp on his way to 
 King William’s Town, having been sent by the Governor to 
 take command of the Frontier police in consequence of the con¬ 
 tinued indisposition of the commandant of that force. 
 
 At this instant, Thomas, the post contractor, drove up. 
 “ General, the war cry has gone forth in Kreli’s country ; the 
 Kafirs have risen.” This was the first intimation of the war of 
 1877 and 1878. 
 
 I directed the mules to be inspanned, and arrived the same 
 evening in King William’s Town, having travelled from daylight 
 to dark almost every day for eighty days together. 
 
296 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 BOOK V.—The Sixth Kafir War. 
 
 CHAPTER XXX r. 
 
 “THE FRONTIER SCARE.”—WAR. 
 
 It was well for the interests of South Africa generally, that 
 the Governor who arrived in the spring of 1877 was a man 
 exactly fitted to undertake the difficult task in store for him, 
 and able to dissipate the confusion into which the affairs of 
 these provinces of the empire had drifted. 
 
 Sir Bartle Frere’s career is too well known to the world for 
 it to be necessary for me to allude to it. There can be no 
 doubt that the appointment created universal confidence both 
 at home and abroad. 
 
 At the time of my arrival in King William’s Town on the 
 21st of September, Sir Bartle Frere had not returned from 
 the Transkei. 
 
 He was engaged in judging the position of affairs for him¬ 
 self, more especially as regards Ivreli, the head of the Galekas, 
 and the Fingoes who were under our protection ; and generally 
 in forming his own judgment as to how far the information 
 regarding the tranquillity of the country, which had been 
 placed before him by his ministers, was a delusion or a 
 reality. 
 
 1 have already alluded to the general anxiety under which 
 the eastern portion of the colony had laboured for the last 
 
XXXI.] 
 
 UTOPIAN VIEWS OF THE KAFIR. 
 
 297 
 
 two years, which was ridiculed by the ever wise Africander 
 legislators as “ the scare.” Accompanied by expressions as 
 insolent as they were ignorant, these insinuations gave rise to 
 feelings of great indignation amongst the eastern farmers 
 Their intimate knowledge of the natives with whom they lived 
 and held constant intercourse, gave them positive assurance 
 that they were correct in their forecasts, and that troubles 
 would soon arise. 
 
 I subjoin some extracts on this subject from local 
 papers: 
 
 Utopians argue thut the Kafir is too well contented with his 
 lot, with the facility with which he can earn money to buy 
 a gun or cows, which secure to him a wife or wives. To 
 these men the Kafir is a quiet, harmless savage, easy to be 
 reclaimed and to be Christianised, one who never dreams of 
 war, provided always he be left alone to sleep away his life 
 in his kraal, and be fed by the wives whom he has purchased 
 with the white man’s money. 
 
 We can prove that natives in the colony are now selling cows 
 to procure guns, and I can state from a forty years’ experi¬ 
 ence as a soldier in four wars, that when Kafirs sell their 
 cows for weapons they mean something. 
 
 A native in this colony is busy buying ox-tails and drying 
 them. He says they are wanted for war, and will be worn 
 round the arms and legs, and that he gets a cow from a chief 
 for every twenty-six tails he delivers. He adds that they 
 have only been in demand during the last two or three 
 months. 
 
 Among uninformed persons no regard would be given to 
 such a circumstance as the purchase of ox-tails, but those 
 who knew these savages gave due weight to it. Many 
 stories of the following kind w'ere told, all of which had their 
 meaning: 
 
298 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 A native servant said to liis master— 
 
 Have you heard about Kreli—he is the man; he lias been put 
 inside in a large hut, which was set on fire, and Kreli came 
 out without a hair of his head touched. I am sorry for the 
 women and children. They won’t be hurt. We never kill 
 women and children. I don’t mean ours, I mean yours—so 
 many women will be left widows, and children fatherless. 
 
 This story of Kreli and the hut was repeated by other 
 native servants. 
 
 On the occasion of a banquet at Cape Town to Sir John 
 Coode, the Prime Minister had taken the opportunity of 
 severely commenting upon the borderers and the Press. He 
 said— 
 
 I am astonished and sorry that men on the frontier, who have 
 taken up positions there and received land for nothing at all 
 in consideration of their being called upon to defend the 
 country, should be the first to be scared and run away at the 
 moment of danger. (Loud cheers.) Let them come back 
 and live in Cape Town if they do not like the frontier, and 
 let others take their place. But is it not absurd to see every 
 stupid rumour and every drunken squabble magnified into a 
 serious difficulty, and the Government called to act on it? 
 I hope the Government will never do anything of the sort. 
 (Cheers.) The Government will take care to keep its powder 
 dry, and be ready for any emergency that may occur; and I 
 am glad to think that not only his Excellency the Governor, 
 but also the general and the military, all understand each 
 other perfectly, and that if anything does occur we shall 
 stand together and let the enemy see it, and they will regret 
 the [day that they entered into conflict with us. (Renewed 
 applause.) I do not consider there is any occasion for alarm. 
 I consider it as unjust to the native population. (Hear, hear.) 
 If anything does occur on the frontier, those editors of 
 
XXXI.] THE CAPE MINISTERS ON “ THE SCAPE 
 
 299 
 
 newspapers who scratch up everything they can, and to 
 whom every bit of rumour is a godsend, will be to blame, for 
 they just disclose to the enemy what he might do. 
 
 Editors of newspapers, for their own purposes, raise those 
 scares, and disclose plans to the Kafirs by which they might 
 sack the frontier and do the colony harm. 
 
 He then alluded to the period when he was a volunteer, 
 in the war of 1816, and the services he had rendered at the 
 front in his day, and said none were then scared by a few 
 Kafirs. He severely rebuked the farmers who were living in 
 the centre of this danger, and who did but warn the authorities 
 of its existence and repeat their convictions of the necessity of 
 making preparation against it. fie justly offended those 
 monitors of the public, the Press, who were advocating a 
 recognition of the coming crisis, which he utterly ignored. 
 
 I quite concurred with the Prime Minister in his expressed 
 opinion that there was a cordial understanding between the 
 military and myself, but I frankly own that I could not 
 understand the want of any due preparation on the frontier, or 
 the disregard which was paid to the constant warnings which 
 came from that quarter, and to which I had repeatedly called 
 attention both officially and privately. The Ministry loudly 
 proclaimed that there was no danger, that there never would 
 be another Kafir war. 
 
 On the 22nd of September the Governor, in company with 
 the Minister of Public Works, the Hon. J. X. Merriman, 
 returned from the Transkei, and the command of the police 
 force was placed in the hands of Commandant Griffiths. A 
 fight on the borders between the Galekas and the Fingoes was 
 then reported. The Kafirs could not bear to see those who 
 had formerly been their servants now free and independent, 
 and growing rich by their providence and industry, and the 
 Galekas determined to assert their former superiority over 
 
300 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 them. A slight disagreement at a drinking-party ended in a 
 serious quarrel, and a life was lost. 
 
 It was soon apparent that the ideas of the Galeka chief 
 were not confined simply to avenging himself upon the Fingoes 
 who had offended some of his tribe, but that he intended 
 to drive them out of the country which had been in his own 
 possession some years previously, and which he had forfeited 
 in former wars with the British Government. 
 
 On the 26th of September the fight of Guadana was fought, 
 the action was much criticised, and I was subsequently re¬ 
 quested to give my views on it, as it was the first of this 
 war. I insert a report concerning it. 
 
 The Battle of Guadana, 
 
 The Commandant F. A. M. Police, Susize Camp. 
 
 Sosize Camp, 
 
 October 28th, 1877. 
 
 Sir,—In accordance with your instructions, I have the honour 
 to report that on the 26th ult. while returning to Idutywa 
 reserve from the Ibeka camp, I was apprised of the fact that 
 the Galekas had attacked the Fingoes on the Government 
 reserve near the Guadana, 
 
 On receiving this information I continued my march along the 
 main road, and when about two miles from the Impulse, 
 opposite the Guadana, I observed the Galekas had crossed 
 in numbers and attacked the Fingoes, and that an engage¬ 
 ment was taking place between the two tribes. 
 
 In obedience to orders received (in the event of a battle) I 
 proceeded to the scene of action in support of the Fingoes. 
 Before taking any prominent part, I sent back to the Im¬ 
 pulse to acquaint Mr. Ayliff (who was then in command of 
 a large Fingo contingent) that the Galeka army had crossed 
 into British territory. On the arrival of this gentleman 
 with about 1000 Fingoes, I halted the gun and the men 
 
XXXI.] 
 
 THE FIGHT AT GUADANA. 
 
 301 
 
 under my command, Mr. Ayliff, with his Fingoes, marching 
 to the top of the Guadana hill. 
 
 In order to avoid surprise, I sent Sub-Inspector Hamilton to 
 Mr. Ayliff to receive a report of the position of the Galeka 
 army. 
 
 This officer returned with a request from Mr. Ayliff that I 
 should march on with the gun and men, which I did. On 
 arrival there, I found the Galeka army in three divisions at 
 the foot of the hill. On our appearance the enemy made a 
 move towards us. I immediately gave the order to the 
 officer in command of the artillery (Sub-Inspector Cochrane) 
 to open fire with the 7-pounder, which he did. 
 
 After the tenth round the gun became disabled, and on being 
 reported to me, I gave the order “ The gun will retire under 
 Mr. Cochrane and the escort.” This was immediately carried 
 out, and the gun under Sub-Inspector Cochrane, and Sub- 
 Inspector A. Maclean, with twenty-five men as gun escort, 
 retired accordingly. 
 
 Before entering into action my men were extended in skir¬ 
 mishing order on the brow of the hill, the horses having 
 been left out of sight, in hand, and in charge of the usual 
 number of men. The Fingoes under Mr. Ayliff were placed 
 on the left flank, between the gun and the Guadana forest, 
 so as to command the bush. My men were placed on the 
 right of the gun. When the Galekas came within rifle 
 range I ordered the police to commence firing, and con¬ 
 tinuous independent firing was kept up for nearly two hours, 
 which checked the enemy until the gun retired. When the 
 Fingoes saw this they made a general retreat, running in 
 among our horses and causing great confusion. 
 
 Finding that we were deserted by the Fingoes, and that by 
 remaining on the ground any longer the lives of the whole 
 European police would be sacrificed, I ordered the men to 
 retire. The confusion by the Fingoes rushing about in all 
 
302 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFBICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 directions caused several of our horses to break loose, and 
 through this unfortunate circumstance one officer and six 
 men fell victims to the enemy. 
 
 The remainder of the men retired in order, and the gun was 
 taken safely to the Idutywa. 
 
 The tiring from the 7-pounder was most effective, and so was 
 also that of the Sniders. 
 
 The estimated loss on the Galeka side was at least 200, besides 
 wounded. 
 
 I may say that the Fingoes, when asked why they retreated so 
 soon, replied that they had been watching the gun, and when 
 they saw it move they thought it was time to leave the 
 battle-field. 
 
 I cannot attach any blame to our men in the engagement; 
 they stood their ground until the very last, fired steadily, and, 
 were it not for the gun breaking down, I have no hesitation 
 in asserting that the result would have been different. 
 
 Finding the gun and men were safe, I proceeded on to the Ibeka 
 camp in company with Inspector J. Maclean and Sub- 
 Inspector Hamilton, where I personally reported the engage¬ 
 ment to you, and returned to the Idutywa reserve on the 
 morning of the 27th September. 
 
 The Galeka army must have numbeied about 5000. 
 
 Our force consisted of 80 men (including gun escort and detach¬ 
 ment) and about 1500 Fingoes. 
 
 I have, &c., 
 
 E. B. Chalmers, 
 
 Inspector Commandiwj No. 2 Troop, F.A.M.P. 
 
 Observations made by His Excellency General Sir Arthur 
 
 Cunynghame, Commanding Forces, on the above report, by 
 
 Inspector Chalmers, on the action fought at Guadana on the 
 
 20th September last. 
 
XXXI.] 
 
 MY OBSERVATIONS ON THE FIGHT. 
 
 303 
 
 To the Honourable Mr. Merriman, &c. 
 
 Sir, —Not liaviug' been placed in command of the colonial 
 forces when this action was fought, I did not feel myself 
 entitled to receive a report of it from Commandant Griffith. 
 Had I been in command of the forces generally at that time 
 I should have been most happy to have received it, and 
 should have officially forwarded it to his Excellency the 
 Governor, and should have published it with the rest. 
 
 On the 20th of October I very carefully examined the Gua- 
 dana mountain. The field of battle, the position of the 
 forces, the engagement in all particulars was explained very 
 fully by one of the F. A. M. Police, who was present at the 
 action. 
 
 The Fingoes were, I conceive, outflanked by the enemy. The 
 gun was advanced to an excellent position until the trail 
 broke. This, it appears, was colonial manufacture. It was 
 well made, but had one defect, very excusable. This trail 
 was colonial made, in consequence, as I am informed, of the 
 proper W oolwich carriage having been lost in the Windsor 
 Castle. 
 
 The gun could nut and should not, in my opinion, have re¬ 
 mained lunger on the field of the engagement, and it was 
 probably owing to the escort remaining too long, as well as 
 to the unfortunate circumstance of their losing their horses, 
 that those who were killed lost their lives. 
 
 I was told that nothing could exceed the bravery of Inspector 
 Yon Hohenan who fell, that in fact he lost his own life in 
 his endeavour to carry off the field one of the men who had 
 been wounded, and that while he was endeavouring to place 
 this man on his own horse, he himself was shot through the 
 body, and that he died like a British soldier. 
 
 I had the honour to assist in erecting a cairn to his memory. 
 Its position commands Galekaland. So far from blame being 
 
304 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiat. 
 
 attached to the police, if I may judge from the position as it 
 was explained to me, and as I on careful survey found it—I 
 consider credit is due to this force for the forward and excellent 
 position they took up, the execution which they must have 
 done to the enemy, until their gun was disabled, and the 
 way in which they retained their position until they were 
 compelled as mounted men outflanked by an enemy secured 
 by thick wood to retire. 
 
 This is the decided conclusion that I arrive at after a careful 
 examination of the ground, and full consideration of the 
 subject. 
 
 A. Cunynghame, General. 
 
 Van Holienan appears to have behaved with great bravery. 
 On the order to retire being given he, having (so it is said) 
 assisted Evans into the saddle, was vaulting up behind, when 
 he was shot in the hip, and both men rolled to the ground. 
 The enemy were too close at hand for him to escape. A 
 gentleman who witnessed the recovery of the bodies of the 
 policemen who fell in the action, says :—“ Evans had eighteen 
 assegai wounds, mostly on the back. All the bodies were 
 stripped, but Evans’ coat was so full of holes that the natives 
 left it. Sub-Inspector Van Hohenan had long boots on, and 
 finding them difficult to get off, they severed the feet at the 
 ankle-joint and took them away in the boots.” One of the 
 unfortunates was found scalped, a thing I believe unheard of 
 in any previous Kafir war, and all the bodies were horribly 
 mutilated. Perhaps the most revolting sight was a dog lying 
 gorged by the side of his dead master, upon whose body it had 
 been feeding from day to day. Galeka dogs were frequently 
 seen eating dead Galekas. It is stated among the Galekas 
 that whenever a commando of Kafirs took the field, a hare was 
 invariably seen leading the army, and hence the disaster which 
 always befel the natives. A doctor was consulted, who accused 
 
XXXI.] 
 
 THE WOMEN'S WAR. 
 
 305 
 
 Lindinxowa (Kreli’s second son, and by far the best of them) of 
 being a wizard, who sent the hare for the purpose of destroying 
 the army. Lindinxowa was put to death for this. 
 
 There could now be very little doubt that the Kafirs 
 meant war ; and yet it was strongly denied in Cape Town. 
 Men of influence were heard to say that the alarm was 
 promoted by the officers of the Imperial Army, who were 
 desirous of obtaining promotion and distinction. The real 
 cause of the war was probably the pressure of population 
 in the native locations. The Kafirs had multiplied till with 
 their vagrant habits there was too little room for them. The 
 war was known to the natives as “ The Women’s War,” from 
 the fact that it was mainly owing to the sex that the flagging 
 interest amongst the men was maintained. As if by precon¬ 
 certed action, the women taunted the younger men especially 
 with having become the white man’s slaves instead of warriors 
 like their fathers. 
 
 x 
 
300 
 
 1IY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chat. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 STATE OF THE FORCES. 
 
 The state of war was a fact. Let us now see what forces 
 were available in the colony. 
 
 Her Majesty’s troops on the frontier consisted of the greater 
 portion of one regiment, the 1st Battalion 24th, but with no 
 cavalry and no artillery. The horses of the infantry soldiers 
 that I had selected for mounted service and those for the 
 guns had been sold at the request of the ministry. 
 
 The frontier police probably numbered 1000 on paper. 
 They were an excellent body of men, and many of their 
 officers were intelligent, zealous, and enured to hardship, 
 but their organisation was exceedingly defective. They were 
 badly equipped for the field, and their system was so incom¬ 
 plete, and their arrangements so faulty, that it was difficult, 
 nay impossible, to discover the whereabouts of a large portion 
 of them. Indeed, the Minister for Public Works, acting as 
 Minister of War, informed me that after more than a month’s 
 hard work he had failed to make out the locale of nearly 200 
 men out of a total of something over 1000. I do not speak at 
 random, as the following extract from an official report of an 
 inspection of a portion of the police, which was directed to be 
 carried out by an officer of experience, will show :— 
 
 “ Although due notice had been given of this inspection when 
 Captain P-arrived upon the parade-ground five minutes 
 
XXXII.] A SEVEN-POUNDER GONE A-MISSING. 
 
 307 
 
 after the hour for which the muster had been ordered, he found 
 that some of the men had still to be sent for, and others 
 shouted for. Of one portion of the detachment, very few 
 were provided with uniform, and many of them wore exces¬ 
 sively uncleanly and disreputable clothes, and some of them 
 were personally very dirty and unwholesome in appearance.” 
 
 Hardly any of the men knew how to discharge their weapons, 
 and it could not be discovered that they had received any 
 instruction. Certainly none had been received by the Danes 
 and Germans in the detachment, for the men spoke nothing 
 but their own language. Amongst the fifty-five men there 
 were some nine or ten horses, of which one was sick and 
 another was a two-year old. At Fort Murray, the training 
 station, the barrack-room was found to be “ strewed with 
 debris of all kinds, old mattresses, rags, bits of board and 
 branches of trees tied together to serve as beds.” 
 
 Upon the receipt of this report, Sir Bartle Frere was moved to 
 address a minute to his ministers in which he made pointed 
 mention of the excellent quality of the men, the wanton 
 neglect and needless hardships to which they were subjected, 
 and the absence of well-qualified superior officers. “As far 
 as I could see,” says the Governor, “there were men in the 
 ranks superior to many of the officers, both in natural capa¬ 
 city and in education and knowledge of their duty.” No 
 statement of pay and supply was procurable, and when at 
 length some kind of return was shown to us, it proved, on 
 examination, to be so flagrantly incorrect as to be nearly 
 useless. Even such stores as an artillery seven-pounder 
 could not be accurately traced on the head-quarter records. 
 It was supposed to be at Foleni, and then at Ibeka. It 
 finally turned up in a coachmaker’s yard at King William’s 
 Town, where it had lain for months, and where it was 
 accidentally discovered by the Hon. Mr. Merriman. His 
 Excellency expressed a very natural fear that the Govern- 
 
 x 2 
 
308 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 ment had been misled by returns regularly rendered to Cape 
 Town, in proper form, but not agreeing with facts. 
 
 And yet this was the only organised colonial force! 
 
 A large number of volunteers had enrolled themselves in 
 the several towns in the colony; excellent material, fine strong 
 athletic young men, but the term of their engagement allowed 
 all service to be perfectly optional. They could attend parades 
 or omit them at their pleasure, and if they consented to leave 
 their towns on any expedition, no one had a right to object to 
 their quitting the ranks and returning home at any moment 
 they pleased. 
 
 As regards my own opinion of the personnel of these colonial 
 forces, I quote from the words of the Governor—in which I 
 entirely concur:— 
 
 “ More than this, I was assured by both the late and the present 
 Commander of the Forces that they would not wish for better 
 troops for the kind of service we needed in this war, as far as 
 material, equipment, and spirit went, than the volunteers 
 you sent forward. All they required was order and regu¬ 
 larity in calling them out, that they should be intelligently 
 directed, and their wants attended to in the field, and that 
 they should be exercised in the habit of acting, not inde¬ 
 pendently, every man according to his own ideas, but in 
 combination with others, and under the orders of a single 
 commandant. These things do not come intuitively, some 
 must be prescribed by law, some taught by practice; and I 
 trust that another session of Parliament will not be allowed 
 to pass without your providing for them. Let me add, as a 
 practical point, that neither of the distinguished and expe¬ 
 rienced officers I have mentioned made any exception as 
 regards their opinion of the goodness of your material. You 
 need all arms in a country like this, and you have the means 
 
XXXII.] 
 
 OUR STOCK OF RIFLES. 
 
 309 
 
 of furnishing all; but though the young colonist learns much 
 of what is wanted in the course of the ordinary life of an 
 active frontier farmer, teaching and training are required to 
 make him capable of acting with others, and this your legis¬ 
 lation and administration must give him.” 
 
 The burgher farmers of the districts were able men. In 
 their organisation they somewhat resembled our yeomanry, but 
 the law did not require them to proceed beyond their own 
 districts. 
 
 It was fortunate that there was a large number of Snider 
 rifles stored in the frontier magazine, three thousand or more. 
 On the interchange by the royal troops of the Snider for the 
 Martini-Henry, I was directed to send all the former home. 
 
 Feeling sure that troubles must come, I recommended the 
 Ministry to purchase them. They refused to do so. I still 
 retained them, against my orders, and but for this fortunate 
 circumstance the Colonial Government would have scarcely had 
 a rifle on the frontier. 
 
 Such was the state of preparation of the colony to meet 
 the attacks from the armed natives of the border states, and 
 the armed rebels in the colony under Sandilli and other 
 chiefs. 
 
 Every available man of the frontier police was sent over 
 the Kei, and Commandant Griffiths, wisely recalling his forces 
 from the Idutchwa reserve, concentrated them at Ibeka, a fine 
 commanding position about fifteen miles to the west of the 
 Guadana Mountain. 
 
 It is stated upon good authority that the natives do not 
 believe in the power of the British to call up regiments from the 
 vasty deep. The notion that prevails is that the troops so fre¬ 
 quently passing nowadays are marched up overland, embarked 
 at some port farther up the coast, landed again, and sent through 
 once more, the obvious purpose being to magnify our real 
 
310 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 strength. Thus they were persuaded to think that we initiated 
 the usual theatrical method of personating a considerable 
 force. 
 
 I then wrote to the Governor that— 
 
 “Under the present circumstances I cannot but believe that the 
 disunited commands are fraught with great danger, and that 
 the proper person to exercise superior military authority in 
 the area of disturbance is myself, and, such being my opinion, 
 the responsibility which I consider should devolve upon me I 
 am ready to accept. I consider that great danger is involved 
 both to Imperial and Colonial interests, and that due military 
 organisation should be established.” 
 
 The same day the Governor replied that he concurred in the 
 views I had expressed, and a few days afterwards a notice came 
 out signed by the then Commissioner for Crown Land and Public 
 Works, conferring upon me the command of the Colonial forces. 
 
 I at once pushed forward detachments of the 24th Regiment 
 to the borders, to Konigha, Impetu, and Pullen’s Farm. 
 
 The next information we received regarding Kreli and his 
 Galekas was that he had attacked Ibeka with a large force. 
 
 The station was excellently defended, Commandant Griffiths, 
 with his small force, completely routing the enemy. No doubt 
 the attack was directed principally against the Fingoes, but 
 Kreli is reported to have given orders to destroy those “ dogs of 
 Fingoes,” and also to have said, “ On your way sweep off those 
 white tents on the hill, the sight of which disturbs me.” 
 
 It now became my duty, as Commander of the Forces, to act 
 in conjunction with the member of the Colonial Cabinet who 
 represented the Ministry at King William’s Town. 
 
 This post had been delegated to the Honourable Mr. Merri- 
 man. He was a man of active temperament, unbounded 
 ambition, strong in faith in himself, not over-courteous in 
 
XXXII.] 
 
 OUR COMMISSARIAT. 
 
 311 
 
 maimer or conciliatory in disposition, most difficult to reason 
 with, and he had set his face strenuously against the provision of 
 any adequate defensive force, having declared in his place in the 
 House of Assembly, “ that he would rather see a Kafir war every 
 ten years than that an increase in the frontier force should be 
 made.” Formerly strong in opposition, he had left his own 
 party, in order to take office in this Ministry. I felt, therefore, 
 that the task which I had accepted was no light one, more 
 especially as I had so small a number of troops of the Imperial 
 army to give weight to my representations. 
 
 The question now arose— 
 
 Should the Imperial troops be pressed forward over the 
 Kei against the Galekas, or remain in the colony to defend 
 the city of King William’s Town, and other points of import¬ 
 ance in the neighbourhood ? 
 
 It was decided that it would be wise to defend the colony. 
 In this I entirely concurred. 
 
 Efforts were then made to send all the burghers who could 
 be brought together to assist Commandant Griffiths. 
 
 They came forward in considerable numbers, passing through 
 King William’s Town, or moving in a more direct line from 
 Queen’s Town to Ibeka. 
 
 It was difficult to obtain any correct idea of the number 
 of these forces, but strenuous endeavours were made by me to 
 place them upon some recognised system. 
 
 The next point was that of the commissariat, which is of 
 vital importance to every army. 
 
 I strongly urged that this service should be entrusted to 
 the officers of the Imperial Commissariat Department, who 
 were ready to accept the grave responsibility of conducting 
 its arrangements. I felt certain that, if the service was left in 
 the hands of the colonists, it would break down. 
 
 Notkiug could induce the ministers to listen to me. They 
 were afraid of the expense which would be entailed upon them. 
 
312 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiaf. 
 
 I represented that my officers were experienced in all its 
 details, so that, though the Imperial Commissariat might he 
 regarded as expensive, its administration was certain, and, 
 in my opinion, any system they introduced would be equally 
 costly. 
 
 The answer was given “ that if the supplies cost double, the 
 administration should not be placed in the hands of Imperial 
 officers.” 
 
 I then placed Commandant Griffiths in command over the 
 Kei. It has been asserted that there was an arrangement that, 
 although I was gazetted to the chief command, it was on the 
 understanding I was not to exercise it. There is no truth what¬ 
 ever in that statement. No such understanding was ever 
 entered into or even mentioned, nor would I have accepted 
 the command with hands so fettered. 
 
 I felt that it would be unwise and, indeed, impossible for 
 me to give Commandant Griffiths other than a wide discretion 
 as to his movements. These I saw must depend on many points, 
 his supplies, his ammunition, his reserves, over none of which 
 had I any control whatever; and, moreover, I knew that the 
 larger portion of the force with which he was undertaking these 
 movements were in the field at their own discretion, to stay or 
 leave at their pleasure. How unwise therefore would it have 
 been to have hampered him with detailed rigid instructions ! 
 
 I sent staff officers to the front, attaching them to his force, 
 in order that they might become well acquainted with the 
 country, in case (which I considered by no means improbable) 
 the services of her Majesty’s troops should eventually be required 
 in Galeka land, and to acquaint me how things were pro¬ 
 ceeding, so that I might render every assistance in my power. 
 
 Being fearful of excesses by men not under perfect dis¬ 
 cipline, and smarting under the losses which had been occasioned 
 to them in consequence of the continued robberies by the 
 Kafirs, I gave the following orders, which I have every reason 
 
XXXII.] KRELl’S 11 01!EAT PLACE" DESTROYED. 
 
 313 
 
 to believe were obeyed with very rare exceptions both by her 
 Majesty’s and by the Colonial forces during the war. 
 
 General Order No. 13. 
 
 His Excellency, the General Commanding the Forces, is 
 anxious to impress upon the troops generally that, in all cases 
 where the ability of so doing exists, prisoners of war should 
 be made, rather than that the enemy should, even in battle, 
 be put to death without necessity. 
 
 By command of His Excellency, General Sir A. J. Cunynghame, 
 K.C.B., Commanding the Forces. 
 
 W. Bellairs, Colonel, Deputy Adjutant-General. 
 
 Commandant Griffiths was compelled to remain inactive 
 until his supplies arrived, when his first advance was directed 
 against the chief kraal, -which he caused to be burnt. 
 
 Extract from Report of Commandant Griffiths. 
 
 “ Although unable, from want of ammunition for native levies, to 
 make a general and final forward movement into the Galeka 
 country, I deemed it advisable, while waiting for the ammu¬ 
 nition and stores to come up, to do what I could to inflict as 
 heavy a blow as possible upon the enemy; and with this 
 object I ordered an advance to be made yesterday from all 
 our posts along the border, the different columns to converge 
 on Kreli’s ‘ Great Three,’ which I determined to destroy. 
 
 “ There was little or no resistance at the ‘ Great Place,’ but at 
 the springs on the Butterworth river, a considerable force of 
 the enemy opposed the advance of the mounted burghers, but 
 they were successfully overcome by Wainwright with the 
 volunteers, in which service he was severely wounded.” 
 
 The arrangements which Griffiths made were excellent, but 
 he was compelled to return with his force to Ibeka. He could 
 
314 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 not prosecute liis advance for want of supplies, and especially 
 of ammunition. 
 
 This was by no means extraordinary. Anyone acquainted 
 with war would confidently px-edict such a consequence of a 
 Commissariat undertaken by persons ignorant of the subject. 
 
 I quote a few words of the many complaints in the public 
 newspapers which met my eye at this time, and which, if they 
 were true, as I firmly believe they were, at once exonerate 
 Commandant Griffiths from not proceeding with his march 
 as rapidly as he could have desired. 
 
 During the progress of the police from the Ibeka to the Bashee 
 the greatest privations were endured, the principal evil being 
 the smallness of the rations, which was the more acutely felt 
 by the men owing to the hard work they had to perform. 
 Affairs reached a climax at our camp, where, during three 
 days of incessant rain, we were almost wholly without provi¬ 
 sions, our sole food consisting of meat, without even a pinch 
 of salt, and a few mealies given us by the Fingoes. 
 
 Shortly after this, at the place where we effected a junction 
 with the Commandant, we were ordered to start, when the 
 rations were two days overdue. On our refusal we were 
 told to be careful what we were about; that it amounted to 
 mutiny, &c.; but on the men remaining firm, Mr. Maclean 
 spoke to the Commandant on the matter, and eventually we 
 were served out with a handful of broken mouldy biscuit, 
 some of the men, but not all, being fortunate enough to get a 
 very small quantity of bad meal. This was declared to be 
 all the provisions obtainable for us in the camp. 
 
 Later on, at a camp about twelve miles from the Willow, two 
 days after rations were due, they were not only not served 
 out, but we were ordered on the road, and proceeded as far as 
 the Willow, but returned next morning owing to some mistake. 
 When a patrol is warned, it is arranged so that we have to 
 
XXXII.] 
 
 OUR GREEN COFFEE. 
 
 315 
 
 thrust hot and reeking meat into the saddle-hags, and take 
 green coffee,* thus being deprived of our only luxury, and 
 frequently having to throw away the meat; instead of being 
 warned in time to dry the one, and grind (with two stones) 
 the other. 
 
 The provisions are not weighed, but served out in pannikins, 
 according to the judgment of the quartermasters. 
 
 13y reason of the want of proper utensils, meal is mixed on a 
 macintosh. 
 
 * Those who arc acquainted with the Crimean War will remember the 
 “ green coffee.” 
 
316 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA . 
 
 [Ciiap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 THE FIRST PART OF THE WAR— GRIFFITHS DRIVES THE 
 GALEIvAS OVER THE BASHEE. 
 
 At this time Mapassa, a Galeka of consequence, left the tribe 
 of Kreli and crossed the river Kei into the colony. He came 
 over with a large number of followers. A fatal mistake was 
 here made, in not disarming his people ; but they were allowed 
 to squat upon some pleasant lands with their cattle, and retain 
 their muskets and their assegais. 
 
 The attitude of the native chiefs on the northern part of the 
 frontier now became exceedingly doubtful. Umditchwa had 
 been troublesome, and Umthonthlo had complaints. Extra¬ 
 ordinary fetish rites were in some instances practised ; the witch 
 doctors occasionally promising success and sometimes failure. 
 Curious stories like this were circulated:— 
 
 A trader reported that he had received reliable information 
 that the two Kafir chiefs had recently held a consultation, 
 the result being that they asked their witch doctors whether, 
 in the event of their going to war against the white man, 
 they would be successful. The witch doctors, after going 
 through a round of incantations, ordered two oxen to be 
 driven up to the kraal and skinned alive, one of the oxen 
 being wholly black and the other wholly white. The bar¬ 
 barous sentence was carried out, and the poor animals were 
 watched to see which would die first. The black ox lived 
 twelve hours, the white ox nearly forty-eight hours; and 
 consequently the two chiefs gave up all idea of war. 
 
To face page 316. 
 

 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
XXXIII.] 
 
 GRIFFITHS' ADVANCE. 
 
 317 
 
 Griffiths advanced with all the forces at his command, con¬ 
 sisting of about 500 frontier armed police, 1000 burghers, and 
 probably 3000 or 4000 Fingoes ; while a force consisting of about 
 3000 Tanbus, which Major Elliott had collected together, held 
 a very excellent position near Fort Bowker, on the upper part 
 of the Bashee river. The enemy retreated, making but a poor 
 attempt to stand anywhere. They retreated along the sea- 
 margin towards the Bashee mouth, driving their cattle and 
 sending their women in advance into Bomvana land. 
 
 The Bomvanas under Moni were powerless to stop them, 
 even if they had been willing. They gave shelter to their cattle, 
 which, when claimed by the police, they declared to be their own 
 property, although it was perfectly evident that they were not so. 
 
 Griffiths’ force advanced with difficulty, resolutely over¬ 
 coming all privations and inconveniences until they drove the 
 enemy over the Umtata river into Guadiso’s country. 
 
 The burghers by this time had come a long distance from 
 their homes, and having captured a large amount of cattle, they 
 made up their minds to return to their farms. Being entirely 
 their own masters, and seeing but little chance of capturing 
 more cattle, they could do so when they pleased. It was 
 impossible to keep any of them; it was equally undesirable to 
 keep the police alone in the Bomvana country. The Com¬ 
 mandant, therefore, marched them back to Ibeka. The 
 Fingoes were either dismissed to their homes (it has been 
 said by direct orders from the Minister of War) or vanished. 
 
 Certain corps of infantry volunteers had before this been 
 marched over the Kei to assist Commandant Griffiths in holding 
 selected posts. They did not return immediately. Some were 
 posted at Fort Bowker, another party at the Springs, and another 
 at Toleni. 
 
 A complete defeat of Kreli’s army was on all sides pro¬ 
 claimed. 
 
 I urged that the Bashee should be guarded to prevent 
 
SIS 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFIIICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 the return of the enemy; but I had no troops to send there, 
 and Commandant Griffiths was unable to effect this object on 
 account of the want of men. 
 
 The ministry did not appear to see the great importance of 
 this point; but being sure that all difficulties were over, they 
 proceeded to make allotments of the conquered country, pro¬ 
 posing to give one part to Mapassa’s people, and another to 
 emigrant Germans, leaving but a scanty residue for the unfortu¬ 
 nate Galekas. 
 
 I considered this to be a favourable moment for me to 
 visit the Transkei, and on the 1st of November I left with my 
 staff officers. We had sent on two light carts the evening 
 before, we ourselves taking the railroad to the Kei station. 
 We then mounted our horses, the weather being fearfully bad. 
 Unfortunately the axle of one of the carts broke in conse¬ 
 quence of the bad state of the roads, and as we were dependent 
 upon them for tents and food, both for men and horse, we were 
 delayed that day at Komgha. 
 
 Here I found that, prior to the arrival of her Majesty’s 
 troops, the clergyman and many of his parishioners had deserted 
 their homes, and, taking their bedding into the church, had 
 fortified it to the best of their ability, as they felt that no 
 adequate protection for them existed in the town. 
 
 On the following morning we started early for the Kei 
 river. I inspected the station at Pullen’s Farm, which had 
 been cleverly placed in a defensive state by the officer of the 
 24th in command. 
 
 We had not proceeded more than half a mile, when we came 
 upon our baggage-cart lying on its side on the road. The 
 driver, who was drunk, was sitting on a sack, and crying, while 
 our traps of all kinds were strewed about in endless confusion. 
 
 The orderly said that old Abraham, being quite unable to 
 manage the mules, had driven the cart into a deep hole, and 
 upset it. 
 
XXXIII.] KAFIR WORKMEN LEAVE FOR THE WAR. 319 
 
 There was little damage done, except that some soup, 
 which our cook had carefully placed in a jar, had been turned 
 iuto my aide-de-camp’s helmet. 
 
 Righting the cart, I placed my driver Mittons in it, and 
 took my own spider-carriage with its four mules down the 
 precipitous road. 
 
 The mules, as usual, were obstinate, and discarded all 
 guiding, so that on a steep turn I was fairly jerked out. For 
 one instant I was on the wheel, but grasping at the dash¬ 
 board, I regained my position, and got all right to the liver. 
 The ford was not so deep as we had expected from the con¬ 
 tinued rains. A bridge was in course of erection ; it was to be 
 built on double concrete circular pillars encased with iron, at 
 an estimated cost of 50,0O0Z. It will be a noble work when 
 completed, the length being over a quarter of a mile. 
 
 The engineer told us that singular things had occurred 
 before the commencement of the war. The works were pro¬ 
 ceeding quietly when a Kafir woman passing by told the 
 native workmen that the war-cry had sounded, and that they 
 must go to the war. The men did not reply, but on the 
 following morning every Kafir had vanished, and the war- 
 cry loudly resounded over the hills. 
 
 We slept on the bank of the river, and on the following day 
 reached Butterworth. In passing, I inspected the volunteers 
 who were holding the position of Toleni. 
 
 The mission station at Butterworth looked peaceful and 
 tranquil. Fingoes, as usual, were surrounding the grog-shop, 
 and loitering on the grass with their bottles. We here saw 
 some wounded Fingoes and Galekas, one of whom had been 
 shot through the head, a portion of his brain having protruded 
 from the skull. The man was reported as now getting on 
 well and daily improving. 
 
 A strict guard was placed over the Galekas, not to prevent 
 their leaving, but to prevent their being murdered by the 
 
320 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 wounded Fingoes, who were in the hospital with them, and who 
 had been detected approaching one of them with a knife, to 
 cut his throat. 
 
 On the morning of the 4th we entered Tbeka, and imme¬ 
 diately afterwards set out on a twenty miles ride to visit the 
 scene of the late battle of Guadana. 
 
 I have already alluded to this action, and to the opinion I 
 gave concerning it. Guadana is otherwise called Mount 
 Wodehouse. It was a singular fact that the first action in this 
 war should occur at a mountain called after a Governor, who 
 had trusted the word of Kreli “to live in peace,” and had 
 allowed him to return to the location on the borders of which 
 the mountain is situated. 
 
 In our ride home, we came across a good many dead bodies 
 of the Galekas, upon which the starving dogs were satiating 
 themselves, as there were no means of burying them. 
 
 One body in particular, which had been partially covered 
 with earth, the feet protruding from the soil, was said to be 
 that of a chief from Bomvana land, and the blue coat that lay 
 beside his body was a gift at his meeting with the Governor in 
 September. 
 
 I did not desire to remain too long absent from King 
 William’s Town, as I was sceptical about the peaceful attitude 
 of the Galekas. Accordingly, on the following morning, at early 
 dawn, we mounted our horses to return. Before doing so, I 
 was invited to inspect the head of the witch doctress, who 
 had been killed at Ibeka, while leading on a body of Galeka 
 warriors. She had been stabbed with an assegai by a 
 Fingo. It was reported that no sooner did she fall than 
 she was instantly surrounded by her friends, who proceeded 
 to carry off her body. 
 
 This assured the Fingoes that she must be a person of con¬ 
 sequence, and, rushing forward, they captured the body and 
 cut the head off. She was said to be a daughter of Quito, the 
 
XXXIII.] 
 
 KRELrS GREAT WITCH. 
 
 321 
 
 greatest witch doctor to the chief Kreli, who was one of the 
 prime movers of the war. An ammunition-box full of lime was 
 opened, which was emptied into a sack, and the head rolled 
 out. It appeared very like a plaster-cast, as the lime adhered 
 thickly to it. 
 
 The features and woolly hair were quite perfect. It was not 
 a pleasing object, and one look was enough. Such was the end 
 of this would-be enchantress, revered with trembling fear in 
 life, in death a curiosity to the white stranger. 
 
 I quote from a Report concerning this woman, 
 
 who, as in the case of the cattle-slaughtering in 1856-7 ap¬ 
 peared, professing to have seen visions of armed men, the 
 ghosts of Hintza and other Galeka chiefs of old days, rising 
 from the water and sending messages to call the tribes 
 to arm. 
 
 It was said this prophetess or sorceress had told the Galekas 
 that one of the messages from the spirits of their ancestors 
 was a mandate to give up their old tactics of loose skir¬ 
 mishing, and to attack the enemy in heavy close columns* 
 after the manner of the English soldiers; and that this was 
 the cause of the departure of the Galekas from their usual 
 system of fighting, and of their attacking our posts at Ibeka 
 and elsewhere in masses. 
 
 It was also said that she had led the Galekas in their attack on 
 Commandant Griffiths, and had been killed in its repulse; 
 and various articles, rings, and charms have been handed 
 round as relics of the Galeka prophetess. 
 
 I quote an illustration of the infatuation of these ignorant 
 Kafirs from a letter which came from the northern frontier. 
 Incredible as they may appear, I have little doubt of the 
 accuracy of its statements. 
 
 A private letter from Saltpansberg mentions that one of Magato’s 
 chief men named Masliow, had, while on an elephant hunt, 
 
 Y 
 
322 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XXXIII. 
 
 met a magician doctor, from whom, after much entreaty, he 
 obtained a charm by which its possessor was rendered invul¬ 
 nerable to firearms; or when a bullet was smeared with it, it 
 would be flattened against him on whom it was fired. Mashow 
 bought a good quantity of this precious article, to the very 
 great joy of Magato and his councillors. On the 13th of 
 October this charm was to be tried. Magato and his council 
 assembled. Mashow smeared a bullet well with the valuable 
 ointment, and desired Magato to go and stand at a short 
 distance, so that he (Mashow) might fire at him, and con¬ 
 vince him that the bullet would have no effect. Magato was 
 rather incredulous as to the power of this wonderful charm, 
 and suggested that Mashow should be the target. Mashow 
 quite readily complied, not only he, but several others; 
 among them one of Magato’s most dearly loved wives. Mashow 
 indicated with his hand to his heart, and told Magato to fire 
 there, as he was completely invulnerable. Magato fired. 
 The result was that the bullet pierced Mashow’s heart, and 
 also mortally wounded Magato’s wife in the abdomen; the 
 arm of another Kafir was also broken, and he was dying 
 when the letter was being written. That the people are very 
 mad with the doctor who had deceived them may be readily 
 imagined. It seems the fellow had humbugged Mashow by 
 firing at him a charge of loose powder, and managing at the 
 same time to project a flattened bullet against his body. 
 
 Thus ended the first episode in the war, and I returned 
 to King William’s Town. 
 
( 323 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 STUTTERHEIM. 
 
 If the Gaikas broke out I felt sure that they would make a 
 point of occupying the Amatolas; I was therefore desirous of 
 visiting Keiskama, so interesting from the recollections of the 
 old war. 
 
 We started on the 29th of November. In the neighbour¬ 
 hood of King William’s Town all appeared tranquil. 
 
 The men were generally naked, the women clothed in 
 blankets, with curiously-worked petticoats. The manner in 
 which these blankets were arranged displayed their dark 
 polished forms to the best advantage. 
 
 We again passed the flats, on which that curious worm, the 
 commitgee, commits such wonderful ravages. The face of the 
 country for miles is fretted into holes. At ten we outspanned 
 at a beautiful spot at the foot of the mountains called Bailey’s 
 Grave, the scene of the death of a brave man in the old war. 
 Soon after we entered a wild pass, when we overtook a waggon 
 full of arms for the use of the loyal Fingoes. Arrived at 
 Keiskama, we visited Baron de Fyn, the Conservator of the 
 Forests. This gentleman has long been a resident in this 
 country. It is said that as a young man he held a high posi¬ 
 tion at the Court of the Emperor of Austria, but that in conse¬ 
 quence of a dispute with one of the Imperial Princes he left 
 Europe, to which, I believe, he has never returned. He is a 
 fine old man, most polished in his manners, which are altogether 
 those of the old school. 
 
 v 2 
 
324 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 We spent a very pleasant evening with the Baron, returning 
 to our tents at a late hour. The following day the weather 
 was beautiful, and the mountain scenery quite lovely. 
 
 We left again early in the morning, passing near the 
 entrance of the Booma Pass, the well-remembered scene of 
 some bloody Amatola strifes. The white tents of the police 
 dotted the green sward at its entrance. On passing through 
 the town of Alice we met the missionary in charge of the 
 neighbouring station, who pressed us to visit it, and we were 
 well rewarded for doing so. I was glad to see that he gave his 
 pupils some practically instructive occupation. The tinsmith 
 work carried on by the natives appeared to be successful. The 
 singing of the girls was exceedingly beautiful, so much so as 
 to induce me to suggest that it might be advisable to send 
 the entire choir to England. Singularly enough, Mr. Taberer 
 informed me that not only had such a scheme been already 
 under consideration, but that an old lady of the name of 
 Witcher had actually offered one thousand pounds to be per¬ 
 mitted to carry it out, but that, as her death happened shortly 
 after, the scheme had to be abandoned. Her case was an 
 instance amongst many others of a hard life ending in 
 prosperity. During the last war, a barrack was built at 
 Keiskama, the ruins of which still stand in the neighbourhood 
 of the town. The modern institution of the regimental 
 canteen, now found so valuable, whereby the protits are used 
 to cheapen the articles to the soldier, had not then been 
 established. Mrs. Witcher attached herself to the army as a 
 sutler, and supplied the wants of the troops for years. The 
 result was that when she died about two years ago, she 
 bequeathed, it is said, at least 60,000Z. In case none of her 
 relatives should be found, she divided that large sum between 
 two of her young shopmen, who had shown her attention. 
 
 Whilst we were walking from the school-house, a snake 
 passed in front of us, upon which Mr. Taberer at once set his 
 
XXXIV.] 
 
 A GERMAN AD VENTURER. 
 
 325 
 
 foot—an imprudence for which he might have had to pay 
 dearly, as it was declared to be very venomous. 
 
 The people in the neighbourhood of the mission are of 
 mixed tribes, Kafirs and Fingoes, some of them very fanatical, 
 and believing in demons and spirits. 
 
 Witch doctors are known to have great influence amongst 
 them, and water-spirits are fully believed to exist. As an 
 illustration of the dread and reverence with which the water- 
 spirits are regarded, a native had fallen into the river some 
 weeks before my visit, and although many men were near, no 
 one would assist him, and he was allowed to be drowned. They 
 thought the water-spirit had pulled him in, and that by giving 
 him help they would offend that powerful being. 
 
 How difficult it must be for our magistrates and civil 
 servants to deal with people who are subject to such infa¬ 
 tuation. 
 
 Leaving the mission station, we skirted the base of the 
 beautiful Amatola ranges, and reached the village of Stutter- 
 heirn towards evening. The locations of Fingoes and Kafirs 
 were intermingled—an advantageous plan, as the former are 
 thus able to keep a w'atch over the latter. 
 
 Stutterheim is a pleasing little town. It was established by 
 Germans of the legion who, after the Crimean War, volunteered 
 to do service in South Africa, and was named after the 
 commander, an adventurous elderly man, who raised the corps, 
 and who is credited with having earned 70,000Z. by so doing. 
 On returning to Europe he is said to have gambled away this 
 money. He lost a large sum one evening at Monaco, which he 
 promised to pay immediately. On the following day he tele¬ 
 graphed to his banker in Paris for the requisite advance, but> 
 not receiving a reply, and his spirit revolting at the thought 
 of being considered a defaulter, he put a pistol to his head and 
 shot himself. 
 
 Here I inspected a corps of Germans, fine old soldiers 
 
326 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XXXIY. 
 
 of whom no one could doubt that they would render a good 
 account of a large body of the enemy should they attack 
 the town. 
 
 The district was placed under Commandant Schermbriicker, 
 a very enterprising, indefatigable, and valuable officer, and one 
 who, by his zeal and assiduity, rendered most excellent service 
 in this war. 
 
 We encamped the same evening at a beautiful spot at the 
 base of Frankport Hill. Great alarm pervaded the entire 
 settlement, not so much from a fear of the actual power of the 
 Gaikas in the intermediate vicinity, as from the want of 
 preparation, defence, and organisation. On the following 
 morning we returned to King William’s Town. 
 
 This and other military inspection tours that I made on the 
 frontier enabled me to see a great deal of the families of 
 emigrants on the different properties : and it is with a feeling 
 of pride, as an Englishman, that I can bear witness to the 
 courage which they displayed in remaining in their homes 
 when surrounded by so much danger. 
 
( 327 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 FURTHER SPREAD OF DISAFFECTION—THE FIGHT AT 
 T?MZITZANI. 
 
 The state of things over the Ivei and the chances of rebellion 
 in the colony had now to be anxiously considered. 
 
 The Governor, long inured to dangers of war and rebellion, 
 AA'as determined to act upon the principles of constitutional 
 government. He Avas desirous of giving every possible con¬ 
 sideration to the Ministry, who had been chosen by the voice 
 of the colony. The Ministry were, however, infatuated. They 
 had pledged themselves that there was no danger to the colony, 
 and that there would be no rebellion, and they steadily adhered 
 to their words, and refused to make proper defensive preparations 
 though the danger was so imminent. 
 
 Seeing the danger in which the colony stood, and feeling 
 how little I could do with the slender forces under my com¬ 
 mand, I advised the Secretary of State at home that tAvo 
 regiments should be sent out. But as the necessity for this 
 measure had not yet become apparent the despatch of troops 
 was delayed till later. 
 
 In the face of the difficulties then pending on the Eastern 
 Question, it was naturally considered to be the duty of a 
 Avealthy colony with a responsible government to provide for 
 its own defence. I also strongly recommended that a battery 
 of field artillery should be sent out for service in the Cape 
 Colony, in Natal, or the Transvaal, as might be required. 
 
328 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 I bad no field artillery under guns at my command, none but 
 garrison gunners, with a detachment of about a dozen drivers 
 at Natal. Two regiments and the artillery were eventually 
 sent from home. I made a point of inspecting the Volunteers 
 and the Burgher Corps coming from Galelra land. 
 
 A fine body of Mounted Rangers, called Bowker’s Rovers, 
 marched into Iviug William’s Town; and in conversation 
 with their second officer I said that I supposed that now the 
 colony would be tranquil. His answer was, “ Don’t you believe 
 it. General; we are on the eve of a rising of the tribes within 
 the colony.” I was much struck with this opinion given by a 
 man who knew the frontier well. 
 
 I now deemed it advisable to visit the posts at which my 
 troops were located on the north of King William’s Town, at 
 Fort Cunynghame, at Cathcart, and on the Thomas river. 
 Should the Gaikas rise, these would be points of much signi¬ 
 ficance, as it was through this line that they were sure to break, 
 unless prevented, in order to gain the Amatolas. On my return, 
 I recommended that a chain of mounted burghers should be 
 so posted as to patrol this line in force. 
 
 As I represented, my infantry could hold the towns, but as 
 they were more than twenty miles asunder, it was impossible 
 for them to prevent the rebels from regaining the mountains. 
 
 The War Minister ridiculed the idea that any difficulties 
 could arise should the enemy gain their fastnesses. He said that 
 so large a number of Fingoes were now established near them, 
 that the Kafirs would be driven out in two days. With this 
 opinion the Governor was far from satisfied, and the present 
 Prime Minister, Mr. Sprigg, who was fully alive to the danger, 
 thought that preparation should be made to meet it; using the 
 following strong expressions:— 
 
 The border was never in such a deplorable state in any period 
 of its histoi'y. Turn where you will, we see nothing but a 
 
XXXV.] THE MINISTRY AND THE OPPOSITION. 
 
 329 
 
 mass of savagedom in incipient rebellion, and the Govern¬ 
 ment without a force. On the other hand we see large 
 tracts of country abandoned by their inhabitants because 
 the country was overrun by thieves, who set law and order at 
 defiance, and laughed to scorn the threats of the Government, 
 knowing they had no force. 
 
 Then again we have had a series of ruinous scares, causing ruin 
 and misery on all sides, and which has culminated in war 
 and bloodshed with one tribe, and a threatened general 
 uprising of the other. And why? Because this obstinate 
 and wicked Ministry would not be encumbered with the 
 maintenance of a force. Have not this Ministry been warned 
 time after time of the danger threatening the border ? and 
 have they not been implored by petition after petition, 
 prayer after prayer, to put the country into a state of defence, 
 and have not these petitions been wilfully ignored ? and have 
 we not been taunted with cowardice when imploring this 
 Government to put this country into a state of defence ? and 
 was it not published and announced, that peace was on the 
 border, and that property was never at any time so secure, 
 whilst the suffering farmers were driven to destruction by 
 the wholesale robberies and unbearable insolence of lawless 
 Kafirs ? 
 
 Information was given that in the Gaika division shops were 
 being broken open. The following are extracts from some of 
 the many newspaper articles which daily appeared: 
 
 All the traders have trecked out of Kafir land, mostly leaving 
 everything behind. This Gray Town is a poor place to 
 stand a brush in, but I suppose we shall go into the fort if 
 anything does turn up. My opinion is that there will be 
 war between us and the Gaikas. 
 
 And, again— 
 
 There is undoubtedly much excitement throughout Kaffraria. 
 
330 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 People who have the facilities for doing so are hastening to 
 those centres of population which promise security to life, 
 and stock is being removed to the Orange Free State. 
 Traders and clergymen are on the move, and the injury 
 done to the colony is incalculable. 
 
 If there was any sign of action on the part of the Government 
 there might be some quietude, but when the country is at 
 the mercy of a drunken savage (Sandilli), whose war whistle 
 would at a moment turn peaceful isolated localities into 
 scenes of massacre, there is no wonder that people feel 
 unprotected, and are inclined to form themselves into asso¬ 
 ciations for mutual protection. Prompt action is all that is 
 required. 
 
 Very great anxiety now pervaded the colony. Both at 
 King William’s Town and Grahamstown public meetings were 
 held for the object of petitioning the Governor to assemble 
 Parliament at any convenient town on the frontier. 
 
 At King William’s Town, Mr. Walker moved the fol¬ 
 lowing resolution:— 
 
 That this Meeting deems it necessary that, whilst immediate 
 and prompt measures are required for suppressing the ex¬ 
 isting disturbances, the Government shall be armed with 
 the necessary power to enforce Burgher duty, and requests 
 his Excellency the Governor to call a special session of 
 Parliament, to be held in some town in the Eastern Pro¬ 
 vince, for the purpose of passing a Burgher law. 
 
 In a spirited speech he expressed his conviction “ that the 
 Government had never realised the gravity of the situation,” 
 and warmly attacked the line of conduct they had pursued. 
 Captain Webster seconded the resolution. Mr. Walker also 
 said, “ The Government would, in the end, meet with the 
 retribution they deserved, as being personally responsible for 
 the blood that had been shed. For the robberies committed, 
 
XXXV.] 
 
 ATTEMPT TO D1SAIIM THE NATIVES. 
 
 331 
 
 for the houses that had been burnt, and for the losses that 
 had fallen upon the farmer, each one of those five men was 
 before Almighty God personally responsible.” 
 
 The resolution, which it should have been stated was also sup¬ 
 ported by Mr. Geard, was then put, and all but unanimously 
 carried amidst cheers. 
 
 These extracts will show the feeling that prevailed on the 
 eastern frontier. 
 
 Towards the end of November, the danger of having per¬ 
 mitted Mapasso, the Galeka, with a large following, to remain 
 within the colony armed was fully recognised, and it was settled 
 that he should be disarmed. 
 
 I saw that there would be difficulty in putting this into exe¬ 
 cution ; and that if the attempt were not successful, no end of 
 mischief would ensue. I offered in consequence to accept the 
 entire responsibility of this ticklish operation. The acting 
 Minister of War told me that it was a question of police, and 
 vested in the hands of the civil Government. 
 
 Very great mismanagement was shown. McKinnon, a 
 warrior chief, defying those that were sent to disarm him, 
 made his way with his followers to the Gaikas, and, like a 
 firebrand, set the whole location on flame. The attempt at 
 disarmament was in my opinion carried out so feebly as to 
 court resistance ; and McKinnon’s flight was the natural result 
 of the way iu which the civil police mismanaged the affair. 
 Being appealed to in extremity I formed a small force, which 
 1 placed under Colonel Walker, so as to protect the frontier 
 from invasion, otherwise the rebels could in a few hours have 
 burned the railway station at the Kei Boad, and even threatened 
 King William’s Town. The Minister for Native Affairs then 
 met Sandilli, from whom he could get but little satisfaction, 
 beyond the remark, “ Beware. You tread on a snake; he will 
 turn, and bite you.” 
 
332 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 At this time the Kafirs were selling their sheep and their 
 poultry at nominal prices, and purchasing blankets, tinder- 
 boxes, and butchers’ knives by the thousand. 
 
 The country was very excited. Cattle-lifting had reached 
 such an extent as to bid fair to ruin every farmer. 
 
 The farmers held meetings, and formed Vigilance Com¬ 
 mittees. They loudly proclaimed that they would not be 
 ruined, and that they would take matters into their own 
 hands. 
 
 Commandant Griffiths now reported that the Galekas, Kreli’s 
 forces, were recrossing the Bashee in large numbers, and ad¬ 
 vancing again into the locations which he had cleared, and that 
 he had not a sufficient force to repel them. I requested him 
 to state what further force he required, when he named about 
 500 mounted men, and as many infantry. The answer dis¬ 
 pleased the War Minister so much that he suggested the recall 
 and supercession of the Commandant, 
 
 But it was impossible that sucli a step could be taken after 
 the Commandant had been recommended, and most deservedly 
 recommended, for distinction ? 
 
 A report was now received from the Transkei, of an action 
 which had been fought near Holland’s Farm. It appeared that 
 a body of infantry volunteers, accompanied by two cannon, 
 under a most able officer, Captain Bayly, late Adjutant of the 
 9th Regiment, were returning across Galeka land towards 
 the colony (their services having been dispensed with), when 
 they were attacked at Umzitzani. 
 
 The defence of the position they took up did them the 
 greatest credit, and fully bore out the opinion which had been 
 always expressed concerning them, that, when well com¬ 
 manded (us they here were by Captain Bayly), they would 
 be successful. 
 
 The following is an account of this action, written by an 
 eye-witness:— 
 
XXXV.] 
 
 THE FIGHT A T UMZITZANI. 
 
 333 
 
 We left Ibeka at four r.M. on Saturday, 1st, intending to camp 
 for the night at the Residency. 
 
 We did not get on the road till about nine o’clock. Steady 
 marching for a couple of miles brought us opposite the spot 
 where Kreli’s and Sigeau’s kraals stood not long since, and 
 just here we were wakened out of our “March at easy style.” 
 A couple of policemen galloped up and brought an order 
 from Inspector Bourne to press on as the Galekas were out 
 in force, and had attacked him. Captain Bayly, Lieutenant 
 Stigant, and Lieutenant Wells, with the Grahams’ Town 
 Artillery, went off at a trot, and we stepped out as hard as 
 we could. We marched as fast as we could for a couple of 
 hours, and at last arrived at a place called “ Holland’s 
 Shop,” a name which requires no explanation, the embers 
 and burnt iron marking where a shop once stood. We found 
 that the police had been fired on, and one of their horses 
 shot in the shoulder. The Galekas could be seen on a ridge 
 opposite to us. Below us was a deep kloof, leading to the 
 Buora Kuga river. As far as I could judge, the police and 
 Graham’s Town Artillery were sent round to the opposite 
 side to drive the enemy down the kloof to us, we marching 
 down the ridge on our side to meet them as they came 
 through. But we did not get a chance at them then, as 
 they were too far off for us to use our rifles. The Cape 
 Town Artillery sent three or four shells right among them, 
 one being a splendid shot. On the other side the Grahams’ 
 Town Artillery and police had some hot work. The enemy 
 retired down the hill as our men advanced, but several were 
 shot by the police. A little way down the artillery sent a 
 round of canister into a bush with murderous effect. The 
 enemy swarmed out on the other side, and came on to the 
 ridge, as if determined to fight. After the artillery had 
 driven the niggers out of the bush on to the ridge they 
 
334 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 came on, between 200 and 300 in number. There were only 
 15 police, and 11 artillery; so you may guess what fearful 
 odds were against our men. In fact the majority of the 
 police at once mounted and galloped off as hard as their 
 horses could go. Inspector Bourne, with a couple of 
 sergeants, fought gallantly to keep the enemy in check, 
 but, unfortunately, three dismounted policemen who had 
 lost their horses were right in the line of fire of the gun, so 
 Lieutenant Wells could not use the canister with which his 
 gun was loaded. He waited until the enemy was not more 
 than seventy-five yards away, coming on, shouting like demons, 
 and pouring volleys along the ridge, and then reluctantly 
 ordered the charge to be withdrawn, and the men to retire. 
 Inspector Bourne managed to bring one of the dismounted 
 men up to the gun, and another was brought up by the 
 artillery; but the third, a young fellow named Wesley, was 
 caught, and assegaied. He fought hard for life, and three 
 or four of the enemy who were stabbing him fell over his 
 body to the rifles of the police and artillery as they retired. 
 The artillery horses brought the gun up the hill at a gallop, 
 although two extra men were on the gun. 
 
 As the day wore on, numerous parties of the enemy were seen 
 on both our right and our left, and a few showed themselves 
 on the ridge in front of the camp. For perhaps ten minutes 
 the men were excited, and many fired at random. Not for 
 long, however; they soon settled down to steady work, 
 reserving their fire until they had covered a foe. But for 
 quite an hour and a half there was one incessant rattle of 
 musketry, and it is little less than a miracle that any of us 
 escaped. And the danger was as great from the rear as to 
 the front for being hemmed in; bullets fired at one flank 
 passed over to the other. Not till after eight o’clock did 
 the enemy’s fire slacken, and a chance was given us to 
 breathe. As long as the enemy peppered away so long they 
 
XXXV.] 
 
 RESULTS OF TEE FIGHT. 
 
 335 
 
 were peppered in return. Now and then they tried a cheer, 
 but we beat them hollow at that amusement. For nearly a 
 couple of hours the bullets went whistling past, or dropped 
 around us like hail. We, lying on the ground, were to some 
 extent safe, but the officers, walking up and down the line, 
 directing us, supplying ammunition, and giving orders, were 
 especial marks, and yet no one was hit. It seems truly 
 wonderful that they escaped. Soon after eight o’clock the 
 enemy’s fire began to slacken, but it was continued at 
 intervals until alter nine o’clock. Every now and then the 
 enemy would come up the kloof and give us a volley, but we 
 had our rifles ready to return the compliment, and did so 
 with such effect that they got tired of it at last, and all 
 was still. 
 
 Of the enemy’s loss we have had no opportunity of judging. 
 Both guns and sniders played fearful havoc. Down the kloof 
 on the right thirty bodies have been counted. On the hill 
 and round the ridge the number of bodies is still larger. It 
 may be accepted that the Galekas lost seventy-five dead and 
 over two hundred wounded. All the wounded were carried 
 off, with one exception, and he was at the point of death when 
 discovered. Some of those killed were men of importance, 
 judging from their ornaments. 
 
 So ends my story of the battle of Umzitzani, fought on Sunday, 
 December 2nd, 1877. It has shown all that the war is not 
 over, and that we may expect hard fighting yet. 
 
 The fight at Umzitzani caused no small anxiety on the 
 frontier. It was now quite clear that the Galekas had 
 returned, and in large numbers. Certain information was 
 received that, leaving their valuable property, their young 
 women, and their cattle over the Bashee, the fighting men had 
 again retaken the field, unencumbered. Now it was that the 
 Ministry began to see upon what a slender reed they had relied, 
 and how mistaken they had been. 
 
336 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The acting Minister of War desired to bring the Burgher 
 Corps again to the front, but it was reported that he had 
 so irritated the commandants by his hasty and uncourteous 
 manners, that they would not answer to his call. 
 
 I then made propositions to the Government, which I felt 
 sure the Burghers would accept, that if they brought their 
 horses, I would arm, clothe, and ration both man and horse, and 
 supply them with transport and ammunition. 
 
 So great was the jealousy of the influence that this would 
 give to our British officers, that the Minister declined my offer, 
 stating that it would interfere with his own arrangements, and 
 that the Burghers were not willing to serve under her Majesty’s 
 officers. This opinion the War Minister conveyed to his 
 Excellency. The incorrectness of it has been subsequently 
 proved beyond all doubt, as the following extract from a 
 speech of an influential person will illustrate. 
 
 Again, Gentlemen, I was repeatedly assured, on very high 
 authority, that there was an invincible repugnance on the 
 part of the volunteers to be commanded by officers of her 
 Majesty’s forces. That the fact of the command in the field 
 being vested in the General commanding her Majesty’s Forces, 
 was sufficient to deter men from volunteering from service. 
 I took the liberty of doubting from my own experience 
 whether any feeling of the kind existed, and I can only say 
 that during all the time I was on the Frontier I saw nothing 
 of it, and that both the late and the present General com¬ 
 manding the forces assured me they had seen and experienced 
 nothing of any such feeling, and that on the contrary they 
 always found all volunteers and Burghers, whencesoever they 
 came, and whatever might be the race from which they 
 sprung, most ready and willing to serve under them, and 
 to stand shoulder to shoulder alongside her Majesty’s troops 
 in the field and only too eager to do their full share of the 
 fighting. 
 
XXXV.] 
 
 ACROSS THE EEI. 
 
 337 
 
 It was impossible that the Governor could see an army of 
 savages collecting on the border of the colony threatening any 
 day to overrun it without taking the most strenuous measures 
 in his power to disperse and destroy them. He saw that this 
 could not be accomplished by the neglected defensive forces of 
 the colony, and despite the chances of a rebellion within our 
 frontier, he requested me to use my utmost endeavours to 
 collect together the best force I could, and march them over 
 the Kei. This was on the 6th of December. 
 
33S 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 MARCH OF THE BRITISH TROOPS OYER THE KEI. 
 
 My first act was to order every available man of the 88th 
 Regiment, then in Cape Town, to the front. 
 
 I mounted about fifty men of the 21th Regiment for cavalry 
 service. Arms were placed in the hands of every non-com¬ 
 batant of the forces in King William’s Town, and the band of 
 the 2fth was instructed in the gun exercise. A 7-pounder 
 (weighing 150 lbs.) was placed under their charge. The 
 rapidity with which they learnt this exercise was amazing. 
 After ten days’ instruction, they were able to load and come 
 into action in fifteen seconds ; but there was no duty whatever 
 which the 24th Regiment could not be fouud equal to. I at 
 once purchased horses for four 7-lb. guns, and formed a small 
 force of artillery. There were scarcely sufficient troops to 
 defend the city in King William’s Town, the 24th Regiment 
 being divided between seven or eight small stations in the 
 district. There were no stores for a march, no transport, no 
 mounted men, no regular artillerymen, and the civil Govern¬ 
 ment could not or would not supplement any of these requisites. 
 
 The War Minister urged the advance of her Majesty’s troops 
 even without these essentials. “Push over the Kei,” said he, 
 “with a few Scotch carts; cross by the nearest route the 
 Chickaba.” 
 
 I should indeed have ill performed my duty to her Majesty 
 or to the colony, if I had sent 200 men (all that could 
 
XXXVI.] 
 
 THE FORCES BEGIN TO MOVE. 
 
 339 
 
 possibly be brought together) wildly, without transport, ammuni¬ 
 tion, or guns, into a dense bush, across a river running through 
 stupendous ravines, under the conditions recommended, “ with 
 a few Scotch carts,” and over a drift which afterwards proved 
 impracticable. 
 
 But the fact was that this Minister knew that by his faulty 
 arrangements he had gone well nigh to ruin the colony, and 
 therefore only thought of saving his own credit at the expense 
 of everyone around him. 
 
 With the utmost expedition the detachments were concen¬ 
 trated by forced marches, verging towards the Komgha. I at 
 once informed his Excellency the Governor that the supply 
 and transport for all the force, whether imperial or colonial, 
 over the Kei, must be placed under the management of British 
 officers, to whicli he assented. Under that admirable officer, 
 Deputy-Commander General Strickland, ably seconded by 
 Assistant-Commissary Warneford, the commissariat then worked 
 wonders impossible of accomplishment by any but well in¬ 
 structed and efficient officers. They collected supplies and 
 transport in spite of incredible difficulties. 
 
 I purchased as much powder and lead as I could procure 
 in King William’s Town, and despatched it to the front. I 
 had to depend for the escort of all these supplies upon my own 
 military force. 
 
 The supplies across the Kei had been so completely 
 neglected, that I discovered, after much difficulty, that they 
 consisted of only a week’s food for the men and horses of the 
 frontier force, and only three charges of powder and one bullet 
 per man for the native allies. 
 
 I greatly appreciated the zeal and intelligence of Colonel 
 Glyn, whom I directed to take command in the Transkei, and 
 of all his officers. 
 
 The Minister kept urging that I should dash the first 
 few soldiers that could be got over the Kei against the enemy. 
 
 z 2 
 
310 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Faithful to what I knew to be my military duty, I would not 
 consent to such folly, or bring what I believed likely to be in¬ 
 evitable disgrace on her Majesty’s troops. I was determined 
 to make a certainty of success, and the result, as I will show, 
 entirely proved the wisdom of the course I took. 
 
 One consideration of great importance had to be taken 
 into account, the possible flooding of the Kei river. Should 
 this occur before supplies had been got over, the force could 
 not exist, and we were in the very season in which a flood might 
 be expected. In the year 1874, forty waggons had actually 
 been detained at the drift for three months, owing to the im¬ 
 passable condition of the river. 
 
 In eighteen days my force was ready, sufficient provision 
 made for the defence of the positions which were to be evacuated 
 by troops, and garrisoned by volunteers, and enough supplies 
 prepared to justify an advance. 
 
 The vicious system of a double commissariat, which even¬ 
 tually caused so large an outlay and expenditure, now became 
 apparent. A competition in the market was set up between 
 the Colonial and Imperial purchasers. 
 
 The greater part of my small force was assembled near 
 Ibeka by the 22nd and 23rd, the artillery arriving on the 
 evening of the 25th. The three columns marched at 5 a.m. on 
 the 26th, and I am happy to say that during the time they 
 remained in the Transkei there was no waiting for rations, and 
 no delay for ammunition. 
 
 The Governor sanctioned my raising a corps of cavalry and 
 two corps of infantry. I placed the first under command of 
 Lieutenant Carrington; the infantry under Major Pulleine. 
 The zeal and success of these officers were of great service. 
 
 His Excellency had requested the Commodore to bring up 
 H.M.S. Active, and a naval brigade was formed. This most 
 valuable adjunct was marched to the Komgha, where I 
 directed one-half of it, with its rockets and gun, to cross the 
 
XXXVI.] 
 
 DANGER TO MY GUNS. 
 
 341 
 
 Kei. The other half was posted at the Komgha and Fort 
 Cunyinghame, an arrangement which proved most valuable, 
 especially when Sandilli and the Gaikas broke into open 
 rebellion. 
 
 The difficulties I had to surmount were considerable. By 
 far the greatest was to discover the number and situation of the 
 Volunteer Corps, for they were constantly being moved by order 
 of the Minister of War, who did not inform me of their 
 whereabouts. 
 
 The continued support and assistance which the Governor 
 rendered me was invaluable, and I felt deeply grateful for it. 
 His own exertions were such as could only be understood by 
 those who knew what he had accomplished during the Indian 
 Mutiny, when in the Council of the Viceroy of India. 
 
 On the 21st of December 1 left King William’s Town to join 
 the forces in the Transkei, passing by Deadman’s Gulley, 
 Hangman’s Bush, and Murderer’s Kop (a gloomy list of 
 prominent points). I arrived that evening at the Komgha. 
 
 On the following morning at six, when starting for the river, 
 I was informed that Kiva, a noted warrior of the Galekas, had 
 crossed the Kei with a large force, and that he was but a few 
 miles in my front. 
 
 All the cavalry and mounted men that I had were but a few 
 orderlies, and not more than eight mounted police could be 
 assembled. 
 
 With this force my aide-de-camp and Major Moore advanced 
 to the frontier between the Komgha and the river. My prin¬ 
 cipal source of anxiety was for the two guns which had preceded 
 me on the previous evening, and would by this time be exactly 
 in the line of march of Kiva’s force. No cavalry escort could be 
 procured for them, as I did not possess any. Fortunately, Lieut. 
 Kell, 88th Regiment, the intelligent officer to whom, in default of 
 a regular artillery man, I had entrusted the command, had heard 
 of the advance and remained at Pullen’s farm to wait for orders. 
 
342 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XXXVI. 
 
 The few police under Major Moore came up with the rear of 
 Kiva’s force just as they were entering Murderer’s Kop, but 
 could do little more than watch their movements. Thus this 
 dangerous character had crossed into the colony, as he could 
 not have done had a sufficient force of mounted burghers been 
 stationed in the positions I had indicated long before. 
 
 On the morning of the 23rd, having ascertained that the way 
 was clear for the guns, I crossed at right angles to the path 
 which Kiva had taken on the previous day, and we thus passed 
 through the ravine and over the river, arriving at Foleni on the 
 24th. On Christmas Day we pushed on to Ibeka, where I 
 established my headquarters. 
 
( 343 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 ATTACKS BY THE KAFIRS UPON THE MAILS BETWEEN THE 
 CIS- AND TRANS-KEI. 
 
 On the 25tli we ate our Christmas dinner with the 24th 
 Regiment. That evening the guns arrived. Next day at day¬ 
 break the columns started; the centre under Colonel Glyn, 
 the right from the springs, under Major Hopton, the left under 
 Captain Upcher, to each of whom was allotted a part of the 
 artillery, the mounted police, and the Naval brigade, with about 
 1000 Eingoes all told, the latter being chiefly attached to the 
 centre division. 
 
 Exactly the same measures were carried out as on the 
 previous occasion under Commandant Griffiths, sweeping the 
 enemy from west to east, first by the Manubee forest, then 
 along the coast to the Rashee. The ravines, mountains, and 
 rivers, presented the same difficulties, but with the assistance of 
 a pontoon the movement was completed within a few days. A 
 great many cattle were captured, more than 1000 head by 
 Colonel Glyn’s column, and 500 by Captain Upcher. H.M.S. 
 Active, under Commodore Sullivan, moved along the coast as 
 the troops advanced, and communicated with them at the 
 mouth of the Bashee. 
 
 Under sanction of the High Commissioner I offered 500 
 head of cattle, or 1000?., for the capture of Ivreli, not dead or 
 alive, but to be delivered in safety into camp. This reward con¬ 
 tinued to he offered to the end of the war, but, to the honour of 
 
344 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 the Galekas be it said, that although they were in such a 
 starving state as to be actually eating the baric of the trees, no 
 traitor was found base enough to betray him. It reminds 
 one of the days of the Pretender, when a reward of 30,OOOZ. 
 could not induce a Highlander to betray his prince. 
 
 A few small engagements took place, but none of any con¬ 
 sequence. A policeman carrying despatches was shot, and 
 many farms on the borders were burned. I used my best 
 endeavours at Ibeka to discover if the enemy were collecting 
 in any particular direction. One of my greatest difficulties 
 was in the intelligence department, which appeared to have 
 been sadly neglected, for although handsome allowances had 
 been paid for the service to native policemen, they appeared 
 either unable or unwilling to afford me such advantages as an 
 officer in command has a right to expect. 
 
 On the 29th of December, telegraphic news arrived, that 
 the Gaikas, who occupied the country in our rear, had at length 
 risen in rebellion, and that our mails to the colony had been 
 seized. In fact, our communications were entirely cut off, and 
 no force existed to keep them open. No waggon passed for 
 three weeks, and had we not been well supplied beforehand the 
 consequences might have been very serious. 
 
 On the 29th and 30th December, small bodies of troops 
 sent to clear the road for the postal service were attacked 
 by the enemy, whom they signally defeated. Brevet-Major 
 Moore, 88th Regiment, reported that on the 29th of December, 
 he left the Komgha camp with a patrol of thirty-two noncom¬ 
 missioned officers and men of the frontier armed and mounted 
 police under Sub-Inspector Mitchell, in the direction of 
 Draaibosch, near which place the postriders, carrying the mails 
 to Kei Road, had been fired on and forced to return. His 
 report goes on to say :— 
 
 About four miles from Komgha I turned off the road to the 
 
XXXVII.] 
 
 THE MAILS ATTACKED. 
 
 345 
 
 right, and advanced cautiously, with patrols thrown out to 
 the top of a neighbouring hill, on the further slope of which, 
 among large boulders, were posted a number of Kafirs with 
 guns and assegais. I was with the advanced party, and called 
 upon the Kafirs nearest to me to lay down their arms. In 
 reply, a shot was fired at us by a man thirty or forty yards 
 off, and others quickly followed. The troop having come up 
 presently, I ordered the men to dismount, and half to 
 skirmish. The Kafirs, about 100 in number, then began to 
 run down the slope towards the Kabousie, followed for a 
 short distance by our skirmishers. We then mounted, and 
 took up a commanding position about a mile nearer the 
 Draaibosch, from which we could see another party of Kafirs 
 coming from the direction of the Kabousie, with the inten¬ 
 tion apparently, of getting round our left. Having again 
 dismounted and commenced skirmishing, the enemy retired 
 in haste towards the river. We then turned away sharp to 
 the left, towards Draaibosch, in order to gain a detachment 
 of 40 men, 88th Regiment, under Lieutenant Wood, who 
 were escorting ammunition wagons to Komgha. About two 
 miles from the ruins of Macdonald’s canteen, our right patrol 
 came upon a body of about 300 Kafirs, who were advancing 
 in our direction; the troop was ordered to dismount to 
 receive them, but after firing a few shots retired. The 
 Kafirs followed up, and having overtaken one man, Private 
 Glesse, who was dismounted, killed him with assegais, despite 
 the efforts of a few to rescue him. I grieve to say that we 
 were unable to recover the body. 
 
 Major Moore again wrote under date December 31:— 
 
 I left Komgha yesterday at 11 a.m. with forty men of the 
 88th Regiment under Captain Acklom, and twenty-one frontier 
 armed mounted police, for the purpose of escorting the mail 
 from the Transkei past Draaibosch. When we approached 
 
346 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Savage’s Shop, six miles from Komgha, large bodies of 
 Kafirs were seen mustered about a mile to our right, i. e. 
 north. Fearing an attack, I selected a good defensive posi¬ 
 tion on the crown of a hill, about half a mile beyond Savage’s 
 Shop, and close to the road. We were not kept long in 
 suspense as to the enemy’s intention, for by the time our 
 arrangements were completed about 600 footmen and 50 
 mounted men (the latter took no part in the action) were 
 seen advancing rapidly and in perfect order. At about 
 500 yards we opened fire, upon which the bullocks ran off 
 with our ammunition-cart to our rear. The enemy continued 
 to advance, and detached large bodies to both flanks, chiefly 
 to our right, some men also getting to our rear, into whose 
 hands the ammunition-cart fell. The fight lasted from 
 2.15 to 3.45 p.m., bodies of the enemy being within assegai 
 range; but very few assegais were thrown, nearly all the 
 Kafirs opposed to us being armed with guns and rifles. Our 
 ammunition, of which the troops carried forty rounds, begin¬ 
 ning to fall short, matters were becoming critical, and we were 
 obliged to have recourse to frequent bayonet charges, before 
 which the enemy always gave way. We were careful to 
 keep fast hold of the hill top, and the Kafirs at length 
 began to retire from all sides, leisurely making their way 
 in the direction from which they came. The Connaught 
 Hangers, boys though they are—not one of them had ever 
 seen an enemy before—and some of the frontier armed 
 mountain police, behaved admirably well; they repelled 
 attack after attack from large bodies advancing in every 
 direction, charging with a cheer when called on, and held 
 final possession of the well-contested hill-top. Their fire, 
 however, was very mild, to which may be attributed the 
 small number of the enemy accounted for. 
 
 Major Moore was severely wounded with an assegai as 
 
XXXVII.] 
 
 THREE GENTLEMEN MURDERED. 
 
 347 
 
 he was standing over the body of a disabled policeman, but 
 notwithstanding this he still continued his command. 
 
 All accounts concur in stating that the action was a most 
 spirited affair. The onslaught of the Kafirs, personally led 
 by Dhimba and Mackinnou, was repeated with desperate per¬ 
 sistence, and nothing but coolness and prudence could have 
 saved the handful of men from being hemmed in and cut to 
 pieces. All were loud in the praises of Major Moore, whose 
 gallantry was no less conspicuous than his careful manipulation 
 of the men under his command. 
 
 The Connaught Rangers are said to have displayed great 
 readiness and pluck, but the police themselves reluctantly 
 admit that these qualities were rather the exception than 
 the rule among their own force. It is, however, but fair to 
 them to say that some of them were as young as, and less 
 instructed than, the Connaught Rangers. In the beginning of 
 January Mr. R. G. Tainton, Mr. J. H. Tainton, and Mr. W. C. 
 Brown were murdered at Berlin, about eleven miles from King 
 William’s Town. These gentlemen were imprudently placed 
 in the power of the Kafirs, and this tragic result was the 
 consequence. 
 
 The sad story told by the Fingo orderly of Mr. R. G. 
 Tainton is as follows :—• 
 
 I was near the river when I heard a school Kafir woman cry, 
 “ Look ! they are being surrounded,” and I saw a number of 
 armed natives gathering in the bushes; running up I saw 
 three gentlemen go into the hut and get their guns and 
 ammunition, and I got mine also. The enemy were then 
 quite close to us, and advanced menacingly upon our party. 
 We were told not to shoot, and Mr. R. G. Tainton advanced 
 towards the Kafirs, who were then about fifty yards off, 
 saying, “ Do not fire; we are not here to fight; go back,” 
 and other words to this effect. I think that they quieted a 
 
348 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFB1CA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 little; they were right round us, and one of the police madly 
 fired his rifle off (this, however, is not corroborated by the 
 others), and it was at once answered with a volley from 
 the Kafirs. Some twenty of the men of our party then 
 bolted without firing a shot, and the Kafirs cried: “See, 
 they are leaving their great chiefs;” but the rest of us fired. 
 I saw Mr. it. G. Tainton shoot a Kafir in the neck, who fell 
 dead; but, as he was in the act of putting another cartridge 
 in his gun, a Kafir shot him from behind, striking him in 
 the groin; he did not fall, but slowly sank stoopingly over 
 the gun, and several Kafirs rushed in stabbing him with 
 assegais in the back of the head and neck, thus killing him. 
 Mr. John Tainton, on seeing his brother fall, ran to his 
 assistance, shooting one of the murderers, who was within a 
 few inches of the muzzle of his gun, but before he could 
 reload he was also stabbed to death. Mr. Brown was also 
 surrounded by these remorseless savages, and after bringing 
 down one or two of the enemy, he too was assegaied in a similar 
 manner. Seeing my masters were killed, I dived away into 
 a bush, injuring my leg in doing so. I heard the Kafirs kill 
 a policeman in a kloof, who asked loudly for mercy. I 
 then got away as quickly as I could; some of the horses we 
 managed to catch and bring away, but guns and many other 
 things we had fell into the hands of our enemies. I consider 
 that we let them get too close before firing, but Mr. Tainton 
 was anxious not to fight. The headman evidently agreed to 
 settle the matter, because he wanted to gain time to make 
 an attack on us. They gave the war cry as they advanced 
 upon us. 
 
 This circumstance created a great sensation on the eastern 
 frontier. The Gaikas then began to throw off all semblance 
 of respect for authority. 
 
 I visited my camp in the east of Galeka land, and in con- 
 
XXXVIL] 
 
 GANGELESWE'S “GREAT WIFE.' 
 
 349 
 
 junction with Captain Nixon, the senior officer of the Royal 
 Engineers, selected suitable positions for erecting posts. I also 
 visited the “ Idulchwa ” reserve, where a large force of Tam- 
 bookies was stationed under Major Elliott, These natives were 
 in charge of their chief Gangeleswe. During the war he had 
 done good service to the Government. This, however, was not 
 so much to be wondered at, as he was a bitter foe of Kreli’s. 
 
 It will be remembered that I described how of their quarrel 
 began. It originated in Gangeleswe’s ill-treatment of his wife, 
 Ivreli’s daughter. When the Galeka chief subsequently became 
 a fugitive and a hunted outcast in his own country, and when 
 his family was starving, his daughter was persuaded again to 
 seek an asylum in Tembu land. Gangeleswe had made con¬ 
 tinual endeavours to effect her return to him, not at all on 
 account of any repentance for his former conduct, or from 
 any affectionate feelings towards her, but for the fol¬ 
 lowing reason. The ceremony of circumcision is a positive 
 obligation in his tribe. By native custom or law this rite 
 can not be undergone except in the presence of the mother, 
 should she be alive, so that nothing could exceed his delight 
 in recovering her in whose presence alone this ceremony 
 could be legally performed upon his sons. Not long after her 
 arrival at the chief’s kraal, fresh quarrels arose, and this “great 
 wife” caused him to be summoned to appear before a Council 
 of Indunas or Elders. She accused him of beating her eight 
 different times, thrice with knoblcerries and five times with 
 his hand ; she showed the marks of his blows, and she com¬ 
 plained that he had not properly furnished her house. The 
 first accusation, he replied, was not true, he had only beaten 
 her four times; and in regard to the furniture she was 
 fastidious. He asked, had he not presented her with a mat and a 
 calabash, and given her two cows, and what more could she 
 desire? He added that the chastisement which he had civen her 
 was justified by her continued use of improper and insulting 
 
350 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFBICA. [Chap. XXXVII. 
 
 language to him. On being requested to give further explana¬ 
 tion, he said that she persisted in using words in her conversa¬ 
 tion with him that commenced with a syllable in his name, 
 instead of using a paraphrase to express her thoughts. 
 
 On the war breaking out, he attached himself, like a trembling 
 cur, to the heels of Major Elliott, fearful lest he should be mur¬ 
 dered if he remained at home. He had about 3000 followers, 
 who, however, were great cowards, and very inferior to the 
 Eingoes or Galekas. 
 
 On my return, and shortly before reaching Ibeka, I overtook 
 a party of Kafir women who were carrying beer in wooden 
 vessels to serve the camp. This was for the refreshment of the 
 natives employed with the transport. It resembled weak pig¬ 
 wash, as nearly as I am able to describe it, dark fatty substances 
 floating through the mess. Notwithstanding its uninviting 
 appearance, I had the curiosity to try the sour, horrid mixture; 
 but it was some hours before I could get rid of its acid and 
 revolting taste. This beer had been brought from the kraal of 
 one Smith Possa. He is said to be the grandchild of a French 
 woman, who escaped with several other ladies from the wreck 
 of a vessel bound from India to Europe. The crew were 
 murdered, and the women divided as wives amongst the adjacent 
 chiefs. 
 
( 351 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 THE OPERATIONS OF THE BRITISH TROOPS IN THE TRANSKEI. 
 
 It is now time to return to tlie doings of the columns which 
 had been sent out to scour the country. I had retained the 
 volunteers to guard stores at Ibeka, regretting that I could not 
 employ them in the field. They frequently requested to be 
 sent home; but as I left it entirely optional to them to stay or 
 go, it was fortunate for me that they remained, as our stores of 
 food and ammunition would otherwise have been placed in 
 some danger, my force at Ibeka consisting without them of less 
 than a hundred men, while thousand’s of the enemy were within 
 ten miles of my camp. 
 
 We received information that a large body of Galekas had 
 doubled back, and were concentrating near the Ivei, with a 
 force of the Gaikas, who had come over from Sandilli’s location. 
 Upon this I sent an express to Colonel Glyn, who was then at 
 the mouth of the Bashee, directing him to march at once, and 
 with the utmost celerity, to Ibeka. Losing not a moment, he 
 obeyed my orders, arriving on the third day by forced marches, 
 sailors, soldiers, and police being equally delighted with the 
 chance of meeting the enemy who had so often eluded them. 
 
 Colonel Glyn’s operations had been most successful. He 
 had driven the natives before him, attacking them whenever 
 they made the slightest stand, and never ceasing his marches 
 till called away to obey my orders. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 13th the troops marched to 
 
352 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 join the Quintana column, which was now under command 
 of Major Owen, SSth Begiment, Major Hepton having been 
 selected for special service on the other side of the Kei. 
 Scarcely had Colonel Glyn reached his camp when my aide-de- 
 camp, Lieutenant Coghill, galloped up with intelligence from 
 me of an intended attack by the enemy. Besuming his march 
 with all speed, he joined the troops in advance, and finally 
 united with Major Owen’s column. Thus the forces which were 
 so widely apart two days before were rapidly concentrated. 
 
 When Major Owen’s camp at Nyumaxa was reached, large 
 bodies of the enemy were reported gathering on the neigh¬ 
 bouring heights. Captain Bobinson, B.A., and seventy Frontier 
 Army Mounted Police, with two 7-pounder guns, were left to 
 protect the camp, and the order to advance and attack was 
 given, Colonel Glyn taking command of both columns, 
 Major Owen commanding his own, which was the first line of 
 attack, and Captain Upcher the second. 
 
 The Fingoes, 200 in number, under Captain Yeldtman, had 
 preceded the advance, and disposed themselves so as to 
 co-operate in the attack. On reaching the brow of the hill the 
 enemy were perceived in large numbers. On the columns 
 getting in sight the Kafirs advanced. 
 
 The first line consisted of one company 24th Begiment on 
 the right, and an equal number of the 88th Begiment on the 
 left. In the centre were the guns, under Lieutenant Kell, and one 
 rocket party of blue-jackets, under Lieutenant Cochrane, and 
 another with the men of the 24th Begiment, under Lieutenant 
 Maine, B.E. 
 
 Inspector Bourne’s troop of police were in rear, commanding 
 a deep kloof to protect the left flank; Inspector Chalmers on 
 the right, to watch another dangerous kloof; and Captain 
 Upcher’s party, consisting of the 24th Begiment, and marines, 
 under Lieutenant Dowding, in reserve. 
 
 The country was an undulating plain, with rugged country in 
 
XXXVIII.] 
 
 THE BATTLE OF N YUM AX A. 
 
 353 
 
 the foreground, and deep-wooded kloofs on either hand. The 
 ground in the immediate front of the position fell away into a 
 small valley, covered by long grass, stones, and tangled brush¬ 
 wood, well adapted for skirmishing. 
 
 At 4.30 the first shot was fired by Lieutenant Maine’s 
 rocket-party into the masses of the enemy, who were swarming 
 on the face of the opposite hills. The first was a little high, 
 but the second was most effective, three men falling. The 
 Kafirs, who were unaccustomed to such fireworks, dispersed, 
 taking to the kloofs on either flank. Almost directly small- 
 arm firing was commenced by Inspector Bourne’s troop, and 
 the action became general. 
 
 The troops broke into skirmishing order, and advanced. 
 The 88th, gallantly led by Major Owen, rushed forward 
 with a cheer, and opened a hot fire on the Kafirs, who were 
 creeping up the kloofs, taking advantage of the long grass and 
 broken ground in front of the position. The 88th being hotly 
 engaged, and four of the men having fallen, three of them 
 severely wounded, Colonel Glyn reinforced them by the 
 mounted men of the 24th Regiment, who, leaving their horses 
 on the brow, dashed down in skirmishing order, led by 
 Lieutenant Clements, and forced the enemy to evacuate their 
 positions. The Kafirs having now come up in great force, 
 Colonel Glyn sent for the reserve. Captain Upcher brought 
 his men up at the double, and, breaking into skirmishing order, 
 outflanked the enemy on their right, and opened a galling fire. 
 This, after a short time, forced the enemy back, and they 
 retired sullenly, returning the fire of the troops. On the right 
 the troops were equally successful, forcing the enemy back with 
 loss, and driving them into the kloofs, which, unfortunately for 
 them, were already occupied by Captain Yeldtman’s Fingoes, 
 who attacked them and did great execution. During the 
 action the kloofs and wooded krantzes were shelled by the 
 two 7-pounder guns under Lieutenant Kell, 88th Regiment, 
 
 2 A 
 
854 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 and searched by the rockets of the two parties detached for 
 that service, both of whom did great damage to the enemy. By 
 about 5.15 the Kafirs were in full retreat. 
 
 They were pursued from bush to bush, and driven from the 
 various strongholds where they attempted to make a stand. 
 By 6 o’clock, as evening was drawing on, Colonel Glyn gave 
 the order to cease the pursuit, and, recalling his men, marched 
 back to camp. Thus ended the action of Nyumaxa, the enemy 
 losing fifty-four counted dead on the field; and from the 
 reports of the number of wounded brought in on the following 
 day, and the subsequent discovery of many more bodies in the 
 kloofs and woods, we may fairly conjecture that a salutary 
 lesson was administered to him. 
 
 It has since been stated that four chiefs were killed in this 
 engagement. 
 
 On many of the bodies of the dead Kafirs were found passes 
 certifying that they were loyal subjects. 
 
 The soldiers of the 24th Regiment were much elated at the 
 first chance they had of meeting the enemy, and the more so, 
 as the action was fought on the anniversary of the battle of 
 Chillianwallah, in which their regiment had so greatly distin¬ 
 guished itself twenty years before. After that battle the 
 lifeless bodies of thirteen officers of the regiment were stretched 
 on the mess-table. 
 
 At no time had the power of the Martini-Henry rifle been 
 more conspicuously shown; indeed, it was perhaps the first 
 occasion when it had been fairly used by the soldiers of the 
 British army. 
 
 Several instances of the long range of this weapon were 
 recorded. All of them, however, were eclipsed at the Water- 
 kloof, when the Sergeant Instructor of Musketry of the 
 90th Light Infantry killed a Kafir, by deliberate aim, at 
 1800 yards’ distance—a little over a mile ! He also shot a 
 small bird (a parrot) in a tree at 200 yards’ range. Near 
 
XXXVIir.] KRELl'S “MOTHER OF MUSKETS.” 355 
 
 Baillie’s Grave, one of the enemy made himself defiantly 
 conspicuous to a party of the 2nd-24th Regiment. Several 
 shots were fired at him, which caused the fellow gradu¬ 
 ally to increase his distance. At slightly over a thousand 
 yards the native appeared to consider himself safe, but an 
 officer came upon the scene, and at his first shot the whooping 
 and dancing Kafir received a fatal bullet between his shoulders. 
 
 The small 7- and 9-pounder guns, as well as the rockets, 
 gave our troops a great advantage. 
 
 Kreli was known to have become possessed of a small 
 cannon, which was buried somewhere near his “ Great Place.” 
 AVhen at Ibeka I endeavoured to procure it, but was not 
 successful. He is said to have prized it greatly, as the 
 “mother of muskets,” though I am sure he did not himself 
 believe in such a fable. 
 
 On the 8th of January a cypher message was received from 
 Captain Wardell, commanding a detachment of the 24th 
 Regiment at Impetu, conveyed by a native who had succeeded 
 in eluding the enemy, giving information that his post was 
 completely surrounded and cut off. Whilst inflicting loss on 
 the enemy, he had succeeded in beating them off without 
 greater loss than that of the commissariat oxen attached to the 
 post. The message ran as follows: 
 
 Our communications are cut off. We are surrounded on all 
 sides by Kafirs, who are destroying everything. Spencer is 
 here with his men from Port Buffalo, all except party at 
 Fort Linsingen. I do not see my way to relieving them at 
 present. The enemy being so strong between us in the 
 Chichaba, it will be as much as we can do to hold our own 
 here. Spencer’s camp was attacked last night; it adjoined 
 our redoubt. Enemy driven off. No loss to us. Expect 
 same will occur often in some form, as they appear so very 
 determined. In broad daylight yesterday they carried off 
 
 2 A 2 
 
356 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XXXVIII. 
 
 about one hundred of our commissariat oxen. The Chicbaba 
 is full of Kafirs, under five chiefs. We want ammunition to 
 complete our reserve, and also Sniders for volunteers. I 
 should like a field-piece, also some rockets; our position 
 being so very open and exposed. We have supplies for 
 about ten days. Ten families in “ laager ” here. Have 
 seventy women and children, who passed night in ditch of our 
 fort; no other place of safety; also our horses. Maclean 
 has not returned. We are obliged to be under arms all night 
 lately. Can you send me any sand-bags ? 
 
 On the following morning, the 7th, Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Lambert left Komgha with a force of three 7-pounders, 467 
 infantry, 86 horse, and 250 Lingo levies. Mo enemy was 
 encountered. Reaching Impetu, distant eighteen miles from 
 Komgha, it was found that the seventeen men shut up in Fort 
 Linsingen had been relieved from their critical position with 
 assistance rendered by Mapassa, the Galeka Chief, who had 
 sought our protection at the commencement of this campaign, 
 and whose tribe was located on the Galeka side of the Kei. 
 The men had been thus enabled to fall back, though with 
 much difficulty, on Impetu, being attacked on their way, and 
 the Impetu garrison marching to their assistance. Many 
 farmers, with their families, friendly natives, and over one 
 hundred women and children, had taken refuge in the small 
 ditch around the camp; and these, with a long train of 
 waggons, 310 head of cattle, and 2349 sheep, accompanied 
 the troops on their return to Komgha, materially lengthening 
 the march. 
 
( 357 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 USE OF THE TELEGRAPH IN THE WAR. 
 
 I had arranged by telegram a few days previously with my 
 Adjutant-General, Colonel Bellairs, who was commanding at 
 King William’s Town, a general advance from both sides of the 
 Kei river, on the Chichaba, a dense and very extensive forest, 
 on either side of the Kei river, commencing near the junction 
 of the Butterworth river, and extending towards the sea. 
 
 Before the commencement of the war, the Colonial Govern¬ 
 ment had most wisely commenced paying attention to the 
 general telegraphic communication of the colony; and most 
 fortunately Mr. Severight, an active, intelligent, and well- 
 instructed gentleman, had been out to superintend them. 
 
 His exertions were never relaxed in placing our telegraphic 
 communications in order, and thus we held communication 
 early in the war with almost every position in which troops 
 were located. It may naturally be asked, how it was that the 
 Kafirs, moving with impunity over large tracts of country 
 traversed by these wires, did not destroy them? 
 
 The only answer is, that they looked upon them as English 
 witchcraft. They dreaded them, they prayed even to them at 
 night, they made incantations around the tall posts and 
 mysterious wires, invoking their kindness and leniency. This 
 treating with deference the gods of an enemy is a very 
 peculiar trait of savage feeling. They thought that these 
 wires were hurtful to them in some mysterious way, but they 
 
358 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 dared not destroy them, and their happy infatuation preserved 
 to us one of the greatest advantages. 
 
 By the liberal use of the telegraph I was enabled to make 
 the Governor acquainted with every move on the Transkei, 
 and was informed of many military circumstances relating 
 to my force, and was able to converse with my Deputy-Adjutant- 
 General at pleasure. Thus the arrangements which were 
 made for the attack upon the Chichaba were perfect even 
 to the smallest details. At some of the minor stations rather 
 singular mistakes were occasionally made. For instance: a 
 telegram came from an officer, who was zealous in correct 
 detail, asking for certain “rules and regulations;” hut as 
 supplies for the troops were in the mind of every one, the 
 clerk read it, “ Send us mules and vegetables.” The mules 
 arrived and were most acceptable, for the guns, and the 
 potatoes were far more useful to the troops than any code of 
 regulations could have been. 
 
 It was very important that a native Fingo force should be 
 collected for the attack upon Chichaba, which can be traversed 
 only with great difficulty by English soldiers alone. The 
 Fingoes spy out the enemy, and firmly rely upon the English 
 wben they have occasion to retreat. They perform most 
 excellent service, and evince much bravery, quite equal to 
 either the Gaikas or the Galekas, or any other tribes who 
 have become famous as warriors. 
 
 In making my preparations, on calling for bodies of these 
 men from the magistrates in Fingoland, what was my dis¬ 
 appointment to find that the Colonial Minister of War had 
 already desired those that had arms to march in another 
 direction, and join a column of the force which he had 
 collected in the neighbourhood of Queenstown. They had 
 taken with them the arms and ammunition which I had issued 
 to them from the small stores in my possession, for the very 
 purpose for which I now required their services. 
 
XXXIX.] 
 
 ADVANCE ON THE CEICEABA. 
 
 359 
 
 This caused me great difficulties, as the arrangements for 
 our movement were of a peculiarly complicated character. 
 
 After great exertions I managed, however, to collect about 
 one-third of the number which I desired. 
 
 I had only two small corps of Burgher Cavalry attached to 
 my troops, of about twenty-five men each. They were farmers 
 whose properties lay immediately in the vicinity of tbe 
 Koingha, and who did not desire to be far distant from their 
 homes. My cavalry force under that excellent officer, Car¬ 
 rington, was now, however, attaining some sort of organisation, 
 and did good service in keeping open my communications. 
 
 A short time prior to the attack upon Chichaba Captain 
 Boyes was killed in the bush, his death being occasioned by his 
 penetrating with too small a force into the dense forest. 
 
 Captain von Leiningen, a brave and excellent officer, very 
 nearly shared the same fate. He met some Kafir women. 
 After they had passed it came into his mind to tell them to 
 join another party of women, who had passed shortly before, 
 and had said they were moving off. He rode back with two of 
 his men, and after searching for a while found the party. 
 Whilst he was speaking with them, two women came up 
 panting and dripping with sweat—one drawing nearer and 
 nearer to his horse. When he followed the looks of her 
 eyes he saw a great number of Kafirs creeping up towards him 
 in the long grass. His party had only time to fire off their 
 guns and retreat. 
 
 The troops for the attack of the Chichaba left Komgha 
 on the 14th of January, the right column under the command 
 of Colonel Lambert, and the left in charge of Major Moore, 
 both officers of the 80th Regiment. The total strength of each 
 comprised about 200 white troops, including police and volun¬ 
 teers, and in addition to these about 1000 Fingoes assisted in 
 the attack. Impetu was reached on the 15th, and here the 
 force was strengthened by Captain Brabant, in command of the 
 
360 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 East London volunteers, who had already had a brush with 
 the enemy, and had captured 3000 head of cattle and several 
 thousand sheep. On learning that large herds of cattle 
 had been seen in the valley, Colonel Lambert at once sent 
 his men forward to attempt a capture, and they returned to 
 camp towards dusk in possession of nearly 4000 head. The 
 Kafirs in that particular locality were not in great force, 
 and made little or no resistance. On the following morning an 
 attack was made on a long deep ravine, filled with Kafirs and 
 cattle. The natives here showed a bold front, but only for a 
 short time, as they fell back after a brief engagement with a loss 
 of forty men. Owing to the impracticable nature of the ground 
 it was impossible to follow up this success with such speed as 
 would have enabled our force to overtake the enemy. How¬ 
 ever, 4000 more cattle were captured, and the Kafirs com¬ 
 pletely driven out of the valley by the very effective shell and 
 rocket firing. Our attacking force numbered not more than 
 500 Europeans and 1000 Fingoes. The enemy was strongly 
 posted over an area of perhaps twenty square miles of most 
 difficult country. From the representations of prisoners and 
 other natives, it would appear that he was greatly surprised at 
 the ease with which the white man drove him from his strong¬ 
 hold, and that the rockets passed his comprehension altogether. 
 The only cavalry was that of Captain Brabant, who had 
 consented to join the expedition for two days’ service. When 
 the cattle were driven out of the forest these mounted men 
 were on the watch, ten miles in advance of the force, and they 
 at once pounced upon 4000 head, not, however, without re¬ 
 ceiving some shots from Captain McClean’s Fingoes, who 
 were in the act of capturing them from the Transkei side, and 
 to whom was due the credit of driving them from the bush. 
 
 The column on the western side of the Kei then returned to 
 the Romgha, ready for any attack which it might be considered 
 advantageous for them to make Upon Kreli. They had 
 
XXXIX.] 
 
 “ SPECIAL constables: 
 
 361 
 
 captured more than 10,000 head of cattle and 500 sheep, and 
 as the greatest proof of victory in South Africa is the capture 
 of cattle, these successes were very satisfactory. 
 
 The column under Colonel Glyn had some further skirmishes 
 on the east bank of the Kei, in a very difficult and intricate 
 country. 
 
 A calamity as great as war itself was now threatening us. 
 There was but little doubt that a period of famine was fast 
 approaching. At this season of the year the hillsides are 
 usually covered with rich green grass ; this year, however, the 
 long-continued drought parched and withered every blade, and 
 the country was red instead of green. Every streamlet was 
 dried up, and the rivers stood still in their beds. Then, again, 
 when the farmers should have been ploughing and sowing, they 
 were called away to protect their lands and their lives. 
 
 From a military point of view, the advantage of this extra¬ 
 ordinary drought was twofold. The miserable Kafirs were 
 perishing with hunger, which caused numbers to deliver them¬ 
 selves, with their arms, up to the Government. As there were 
 no floods, the communications with Galekaland were never 
 interrupted. 
 
 The Minister of War now devised a species of troops 
 called “ special constables,” in order that they might be 
 free of the control either of the Governor as commander-in¬ 
 chief, or of any of the British officers. They were in reality a 
 burgher mounted corps, drawn from the various towns on the 
 eastern side of the colony, even as far off as Cradock. He 
 kept this force under his own control, and, for a long time, 
 its numbers were not known either to the Governor or to 
 myself. We shall see in the sequel that the patience of the 
 Governor was eventually exhausted. 
 
 A man may be ever so clever and energetic, but if he is 
 ignorant of a business, and too proud to learn, he cannot be 
 expected to succeed. 
 
362 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTII AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 The first command was delegated to an officer whom I have 
 every reason to believe to have been energetic and zealous, and 
 whose services I should have most gratefully received. 
 
 On the 16th, Commaudant Frost, at the head of a troop of 
 Tarkastadt burghers, engaged a large body of the enemy near 
 the junction of the Ivei and Kabousie rivers. Some very hard 
 fighting ensued, but the enemy was completely routed, and 
 more than 100 bodies were counted on the field after the action. 
 On our side one man was killed and several severely wounded. 
 
 Commandant Frost’s supplies being insufficient, he appeared 
 at my storehouse at the Komgha with nothing for man or horse. 
 My commissary very properly supplied his force with sufficient 
 sustenance for the time, but it was utterly impossible for him 
 to make adequate provision for the troops if he was to be subject 
 to such uncertain demands upon his stores. 
 
 Towards the end of January I received information from 
 King William’s Town that the War Minister had converted his 
 special constables into a by no means small force; that they 
 probably numbered 7000 or more Europeans; that by his 
 orders military movements on a large scale were being carried 
 out in the north ; that reports were received by him, ignor¬ 
 ing the proper channel through which this military infor¬ 
 mation is invariably given; and that, slighting the position 
 of his Excellency the Governor, he had published his despatches 
 in the Gazette by his own authority and with his own signature 
 alone. 
 
 Moreover, as appointments could not be valid without the 
 authority of the Governor, or the persons appointed draw their 
 pay without it, so without his Excellency’s sanction he had 
 gone so far as to publish their names in the Gazette as “ by 
 authority.” 
 
 Commandant Griffiths was gazetted under a title unknown 
 in England or her Majesty’s colonies as “ Commandant- 
 General,” thus openly disregarding all constitutional precedent 
 
XXXIX.] 
 
 THE MILITARY DICTATOR. 
 
 363 
 
 and law, so that the Colonial War Minister assumed a position 
 which was justly described in some of the newspapers as that 
 of “ military dictator.” 
 
 A report was extant that an expedition against a chief 
 in the Tambookie location named Gongobella was actually 
 going on, but the Governor could give me no information on 
 the subject. 
 
 His Excellency has said— 
 
 Two important movements—Frost’s and Brabant’s—were in 
 contemplation, both under the exclusive direction of Mr. 
 Merriman, who gave us what information we possess on the 
 subject. The information, however, we have regarding both 
 is so vague and defective, that useful co-operation is almost 
 impossible, and does not seem to be desired, as no apparent 
 attempt is made to supply defects of mounted and native 
 levies, which must be supplied if the detachments of her 
 Majesty’s troops are to be actively utilised, and Frost’s opera¬ 
 tions are, I believe, proceeding under defective conditions of 
 co-operation, which I have warned you, I think, likely to lead 
 to disaster ; though, of course, they may succeed. 
 
 It appeared to me a kind of raid which was to be depre¬ 
 cated, especially at this moment, and one more likely to drive 
 natives into rebellion than to avert it. 
 
 But troops had now assembled at Queenstown, and the 
 farmers that composed these forces were naturally irritated at 
 the losses which they had sustained in cattle; and as there was 
 no control from supreme authority, military movements were 
 carried on by the commandants and civil magistrates. 
 
 The remarks upon this expedition by the Northern Post 
 were as follows :— 
 
 It must be confessed that either Mr. Merriman, the War 
 Minister, or Mr. Hemming, the President Magistrate of 
 
304 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 Queenstown, who led the expedition against Gongobella, or 
 whoever else was responsible for it, was, apparently, par¬ 
 ticularly anxious to take up the first excuse for fighting. It 
 was touch and go, whether the expedition against Gongo¬ 
 bella was enough to stir up the whole of the Tambookie 
 tribe, and it certainly endangered the district of Wodehouse 
 and Dordrecht in a manner most needless and reckless. 
 Gongobella was a British subject, residing within the juris¬ 
 diction of our courts of law, and if he had committed any 
 act against the laws of the colony, there were proper methods 
 of procedure; but it is not tolerable that any resident 
 magistrate should be given carte-blanche to lead a warlike 
 expedition against any person who has not successfully 
 obeyed his command to capture and deliver up wrong doers, 
 or who, under a false impression, has taken suitable measures 
 to repel an anticipated attack. In all that Gongobella did, 
 there is nothing to indicate any disloyalty against Govern¬ 
 ment, and it is the purest tyranny of might to crush him to 
 pieces on the first paltry excuse. Without caring to commit 
 ourselves to an opinion detrimental to Mr. Hemming’s 
 motives, or the motives of any one, it does seem very 
 much as if it was regarded as convenient by the Queens¬ 
 town people to take advantage of the presence of a large 
 number of Albert Burghers and some Alwial North Volun¬ 
 teers, in order to stamp out a petty chief who had given 
 occasion for uneasiness. We are in the Cape Colony, and, 
 therefore, we may not expect that any official will be called 
 to account for any arbitrary and illegal steps that he 
 may have been guilty of as against any native chief. 
 Was the urgency of the occasion so great that a warlike 
 expedition should be fitted out against a people up to then 
 loyal and peaceful, and who had already furnished a con¬ 
 siderable contingent of men against the coast tribes ? From 
 whom came the authority to Mr. Hemming to attack a 
 
XXXIX.] 
 
 THE GREAT TAME00KIES. 
 
 365 
 
 section of the Great Tainbookie tribe before they had com¬ 
 mitted a single act of disloyalty against Government ? The 
 expedition may have been carried out smartly, and with very 
 little loss to the European forces engaged in it. But where 
 is the justification for the expedition at all ? Unless answered 
 satisfactorily, the rectification of wrongs should lead to the 
 summary fall of some person or persons whom an inquiry 
 can alone disclose as being responsible for what appears to 
 be an unjustifiable wrong. 
 
 A copy of my letter on the same subject, written a short 
 time previously, is to be found in the Colonial Blue Book. 
 
 The immediate command of the troops in the Cis-Kei had 
 now been placed in the hands of the Deputy-Adjutant-General, 
 Colonel Bellairs, a trustworthy officer of experience, who re¬ 
 ported to me as follows:— 
 
 King William’s Town, February 1st, 1878. 
 In my despatch of the 14th ultimo I had the honour to report 
 to your Excellency that the enemy had collected in two main 
 bodies on the eastern frontier—the one in the Kabousie-Kei 
 country, and the other in the Chichaba valley. The suc¬ 
 cessful operations carried out in this latter resulting in the 
 complete dispersion of the enemy, and capture of enormous 
 herds of their cattle, have been already made known to your 
 Excellency by my report of the 23rd ultimo. 
 
 It had been my intention to have caused the columns engaged 
 in these operations to have afterwards swept through the Ivei 
 valley to Mordenaar’s kop, thence acting with columns moving 
 from the Bolo and down the Kabousie, to have hemmed in the 
 enemy in the Kabousie-Kei country. This plan was however 
 frustrated in part through the action taken by the Colonial 
 Government in withholding the native levies and mounted 
 corps then coming up (upon which I had depended), and 
 forming columns to act under their own inspiration. 
 
366 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 These Colonial forces, amounting to about 600 Europeans and 
 1600 Fingoes, were placed under the immediate command of 
 Commandant Frost. They moved from Fort Cunynghame 
 and the Bolo drift on the 14th ultimo, and would appear to 
 have subsequently formed a junction at Lugilo mission station, 
 thence skirting the rugged Kabousie-Kei country, to have 
 crossed the Kabousie river, and passed through the Caika 
 location, which had already been patrolled by the troops 
 under my command, arriving at Komgha on the 18th. Tin's 
 last movement was caused no doubt by defective commis¬ 
 sariat arrangements, but having obtained supplies from our 
 commissariat department, and ammunition for his men, Com¬ 
 mandant Frost retraced his steps, and proceeded north 
 towards the Thomas river, where he is said to have again fallen 
 in with the enemy in some force. 
 
 From the published reports of this expedition it would seem 
 that upwards of 8000 head of cattle, and as many sheep, were 
 captured with little resistance from the enemy. About 100 
 Kafirs are stated to have fallen, with slight loss on the 
 Colonial side. 
 
 Satisfactory as in some respects these operations were, yet I am 
 of opinion that they might have been rendered more final had 
 the forces been combined under military direction in properly 
 organised columns, with efficient arrangements for supplies, 
 and a common plan of action. 
 
 It may be reasonably surmised that the fact of the Gaikas having- 
 been able to push their way past the Colonial forces towards 
 the north may not have been without its influence on the 
 reported rising of the emigrant Tambookies and others. 
 
 I desire to point out that the condition of the Gaika women 
 and children has become most deplorable. Left by the rebels 
 to shift for themselves, their habitations burnt, their meal- 
 pits destroyed, their cattle captured, and a drought all over 
 the land, they are reported to me during the past fortnight 
 
XXXIX.] 
 
 WOMEN STARVING. 
 
 367 
 
 as frequently passing outposts in gangs twenty to fifty strong, 
 pathetically replying when questioned, “ We have no food 
 and are going in search of work.” Wherever our patrols go 
 they seem to meet with these helpless creatures. 
 
 Humanity requires that they should be immediately cared for. 
 Deserted by the rebels, it might perhaps be considered good 
 policy to remove them to the interior of the colony, so that 
 the children might be brought up among loyal natives. 
 
 I immediately placed these humane suggestions before the 
 Colonial Government. 
 
 The Colonial forces were at this time supplied with the 
 Snider rifle, and the Imperial with the Martini-Henry. It 
 would appear that one small Colonial corps had obtained the 
 Martini, but no provision had been made by the Minister of 
 War for ammunition. 
 
868 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 DISMISSAL OF THE MINISTRY. 
 
 The native locations within the colony being now in rebellion, 
 I thought it necessary to return to King William’s Town, which 
 I reached in the first week of February. I placed the command 
 of the troops in the Transkei again in the hands of Colonel 
 Glyn and recrossed the river. 
 
 At the beginning of February the Diamond Field Volun¬ 
 teer Cavalry reached King William’s Town. They were under 
 the command of Captain Warren of the Royal Engineers with 
 the local rank of Colonel from Griqualand. 
 
 These were fine young men, and a very valuable adjunct, as 
 I still had not burgher cavalry to keep open my communications 
 with the Transkei, and my convoys were always liable to be cut 
 off. This corps was well horsed but insufficiently armed, the 
 agreement to furnish them with carbines by the civil govern¬ 
 ment not being acted up to until they talked of returning 
 home. Unless faith in every respect is kept, how can we 
 expect men to undertake such arduous and self-sacrificing 
 duties ? This corps performed excellent service in the colony. 
 They were raised by his Excellency Colonel Lanyon, and sub¬ 
 sequently marched under his command against Gasiborne and 
 the rebels in the north. 
 
 I have always had a high opinion of the volunteers them¬ 
 selves, and am certain that if they had only been placed under 
 military command their services would have been far more 
 valuable than they were. I do not altogether agree with the 
 
XL.] TBOUULES in all farts of tlie country. 
 
 869 
 
 observations which Mr. Frost is reported to have made on the 
 16th of May in the House of Assembly :— 
 
 Most of these heroes served from love of cattle, and not from 
 love of their country. Now that the enemy’s cattle have all 
 been appropriated the spirit of volunteering is dying out. 
 
 Affairs within the colony were now in considerable con¬ 
 fusion. The Fingoes, our allies, were guilty of great outrages 
 upon the unfortunate Gaikas. They went about in bands, 
 intercepting the women and plundering them, and if they 
 found a man in a woman’s dress, they made very short work of 
 him with assegais. 
 
 On all sides difficulties seemed to be on the increase. A 
 war unfinished on the Kei, a rebellion in the colony, of which 
 the proportions could not be ascertained, but reaching to our 
 doors, a rising in Pondoland, and insults heaped upon the 
 Government by the paramount chief Umgaikela. An outbreak 
 in the East Griqualand location at Kokstadt; the Transvaal 
 continually threatened by Secoeoeni; and Cetewayo, King of 
 the Zulus, actually in arms on the border of Natal, driving 
 away the settlers, and erecting his forts upon the Boer loca¬ 
 tions. 
 
 Alarming letters were received by the Lieutenant-Governor 
 of the Transvaal from the extreme eastern frontier by every 
 post, and a force was then at Utrecht, protecting our borders, 
 while the small number of Imperial troops at Pretoria were 
 detaching men to Middleburg, and the Boers were holding 
 seditious meetings even in the capital. 
 
 There were risings on the borders of Griqualand West, the 
 Baralongs’and the Batlapins taking the field. 
 
 About this time Mr. Molteno arrived at King William’s 
 Town. I do not propose to enter into details of what happened 
 to him there. It is enough to say that he showed such con¬ 
 tempt for the authority of the Governor, and enunciated such 
 
 2 b 
 
370 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 extraordinary views of constitutional government, that the 
 Governor was obliged to request him and his government to 
 resign. His opinion may be summed up by saying that in his 
 mind the Governor and the Queen were ciphers, whose only 
 duty was to give a formal assent to the doings of himself and 
 of his war minister, Mr. Merriman. 
 
 He refused to resign, and the Governor dismissed him. 
 It is not within the scope of this book to criticise his conduct. 
 They are a part of the history of the colony; but, with regard 
 to Mr. Merriman, with whom circumstances brought me into 
 closer contact, I may say a few words. I do not desire to 
 impugn his private character—that is no business of mine. It 
 is only with regard to his public acts that I have a right to 
 make these observations. He was a man of talent and energy, 
 but his thirst for power almost amounted to a mania. Most 
 ellicient as a Commissioner of Public Works, he was totally 
 incompetent to conduct the Colonial War Department. His 
 ignorance of military matters was only surpassed by the 
 obstinacy of his determination not to learn the principles of 
 war. The vote of credit which the Cape Colony gave to 
 the Government that succeeded that of which he was a 
 member, has marked the public judgment upon his acts; for 
 all the skill in debate he showed in his speech in the House 
 of Assembly, and all his ready ingenuity in casting the blame 
 due to himself upon others, were not sufficient to save his party. 
 
 When the question of the expenses of this war comes to 
 bo considered by Parliament at home, I must say that I hope 
 that the British taxpayer, burdened as he must naturally be 
 by all the important enterprises he has now in hand, will refuse 
 to any considerable extent to defray the cost of a war which the 
 late Cape Government brought upon the colony. I am sorry 
 for the colony, and especially for the most unjustly abused 
 settlers on the frontier and in the east; but it seems only fair 
 that they should suffer for the misdeeds of their own cabinet. 
 
W1I0 IS TO PA Y ? 
 
 371 
 
 XL.]. 
 
 The following observations by tho British Secretary of State for 
 
 War sum up this subject in a few words: 
 
 . . . Besides, there is the increased expenditure required for 
 
 the additional men sent to the Cape. I hope this sum will 
 be repaid by the Cape Colony; but I am bound to say that 
 is a colony which is not very satisfactory in regard to these 
 repayments, and I think it is time for the House to take into 
 consideration this question as to the sending out of troops to 
 a colony like the Cape, which is really able to pay a great 
 deal. 1 say this more especially as we have seen from the 
 newspapers what has occurred there, and that the attempt 
 has been made to separate the colonial forces from the 
 regular troops, thus giving the Commander-in-Chief all the 
 responsibility, with none of the control, of the colonial forces. 
 That is a state of things which it would be degrading to the 
 country to submit to (hear, hear) ; and therefore I think 
 we should only be doing our duty in withdrawing our troops 
 from the frontier of that colony and employing them for the 
 original purposes for which they were sent there—namely, in 
 taking care of Simon’s Bay and the neighbouring coast. 
 Natal, of course, is in different circumstances. I do not 
 mince matters; I think the Cape colonists ought to pay, as 
 they are able to do, something of this expenditure (hear, 
 hear), and I am sure that they will never organise any military 
 force for themselves if we undertake to fight for them and 
 pay also. 
 
372 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Ciiap. 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 THE FIGHT AT QUINTANA. 
 
 On the 7th of February Kreli gathered his strength for one 
 last attempt. Colonel Glyn, it will be remembered, had been 
 left in command of the troops in the Transkei. I had, with 
 the advice of Captain Nixon, R.E., selected Quintana as a 
 position for a defensive post, and shelter-trenches had been 
 constructed there. It was known that Kreli and Sandilli were 
 close by, but it was uncertain whether they would attack our 
 head position at Ibeka or the post at Quintana. Finally 
 intelligence was received that the Kafirs intended to attack 
 Quintana. Due preparation was therefore made to receive 
 them. The troops under Captain Upcher were stationed at 
 the now partly completed post which stands on a spur, round 
 the foot of which runs a small stream. The infantry was 
 formed into a square, with a gun at each corner, and the 
 waggons collected into a laager close by. Kreli, with his 
 Galekas, advanced from the south; and Sandilli, with the 
 Gaikas, from the north-west. Captains Rainsforth and Car¬ 
 rington were ordered to advance and fire, and then make a 
 feigned retreat. This they did, and the Kafirs approached 
 within range. Then followed an engagement, with the cannon 
 and rifles on our side and with muskets on the part of the 
 Kafirs. 
 
 In about twenty minutes the Kaffirs discovered that we 
 were toe strong for them, and broke, when they were pursued 
 
To face page 372. 
 
XLI.] 
 
 WOMEN WARRIORS. 
 
 37H 
 
 by the police, the Fingoe levies, and by one of the pieces 
 of artillery. It is impossible to say how many were killed. 
 At first it was thought the number was about 200, but 
 subsequently it turned out to be much larger, as numbers 
 of bodies were discovered hidden in the kloofs and bushes. 
 The loss on our side was insignificant. 
 
 From this defeat neither the Gaikas nor Galekas recovered. 
 They never again showed themselves in bodies in the field, 
 but only haunted the bushes and kloofs in small bands, whence 
 it was necessary to hunt them out like animals. Several painful 
 sights were often to be seen on these occasions. Women with 
 infants were shot, and found dead and dying. But in these 
 wars the women take a considerable part; they form the Kafir 
 commissariat; they venture into the towns in peaceable guise 
 and purchase stores; they follow the army both with food and 
 ammunition. It is thus unavoidable that they should be 
 occasionally killed. 
 
 On one occasion a woman came forward leading a band of 
 warriors. She had wisps of straw in her ears, a charm which 
 she believed rendered not only her but her party invulnerable. 
 In ignorance of her sex a private of police took aim at her and 
 shot her dead, upon which the natives ran away. 
 
 It was after this battle that I most regretted that no 
 sufficient force of cavalry had been placed under my orders. 
 If I had had a larger force of mounted men I am certain that 
 the Kafirs would never have succeeded in getting into the 
 Amatola Mountains, from which both myself and my successor 
 had some trouble in dislodging them. When fighting against 
 savages so swift-footed as these, it is indispensable, in my 
 opinion, to be well provided with mounted men, so that they 
 can be at once launched against the enemy before the happy 
 moment for doing so has passed away. 
 
 Under the new Ministry my duties became light compared 
 to what Jhey wore before. The divided command, which had 
 
374 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 [Chap. 
 
 been productive of such confusion, was abolished, and both 
 troops and commissariat, of all kinds, were placed in military 
 hands. To show what a beneficial effect the stoppage of 
 competition in the market between the British and Colonial 
 Commissariat officers had upon prices, I quote, on the authority 
 of the Deputy-Commissary-General, the contract prices of the 
 Colonial and Imperial Commissariat respectively :— 
 
 Oats per LOO lbs. . 
 
 
 Colonial. 
 
 , 25s. . 
 
 
 Imperial. 
 
 . 20s. 
 
 Mealies „ 
 
 
 . 30s. . 
 
 
 . 20s. 
 
 Forage „ 
 
 
 . 25s. . 
 
 
 . 18s. 
 
 Meal „ 
 
 
 . 55s. . 
 
 
 . 41s. 
 
 Flour „ 
 
 
 . 32s. . 
 
 
 . 21s. 6 d. 
 
 The 90th Regiment and a field battery now arrived from 
 England, a welcome addition to our forces. Tini Makomo, who, 
 as I mentioned before, had been allowed to settle in that most 
 dangerous position, the Waterkloof, having shown signs of 
 disaffection, we had to drive him out. 
 
 This was the end, my last act, in South Africa. Having by 
 seniority attained the rank of full General, I had become of 
 too high rank to retain my command, according to the rules of 
 the service. It had, however, been intimated to me that it 
 was intended to leave me at the Cape to complete the period 
 of a Lieutenant-General’s command. At the latter end of 
 February, however, I was informed that this would not be 
 carried out, and the reason alleged was that there was “ a want 
 of cordiality between me and the Colonial Ministry.” I have 
 endeavoured to enable the reader to judge how far this want of 
 cordiality caine from my side. I will now let Sir Bartle Frere 
 give his opinion upon the question : 
 
 My experience, says Sir Bartle Frere, did not induce me to 
 expect fiom him (Mr. Merriman) consistency or calm judg- 
 
XLI.] 
 
 1 LEA VE FOE HOME. 
 
 375 
 
 ment, or the power of conciliating cordial co-operation from 
 men of diverse views and opinions. He never concealed 
 his contempt for every form of skilled or trained military 
 experience, while his own rash impetuosity imperilled and 
 repeatedly threw away chances of more complete success. 
 His attempt to substitute an amateur commissariat for 
 the trained officers of the department seemed to me an 
 expensive failure, whilst his headstrong disregard of the 
 sound military opinions given to him were, I believe, the 
 proximate causes of the disastrous spread of civil war in 
 the colony [despatch of May 21, No. 87, Colonial Blue 
 Book C. 2079 ; 1878, page 241]. Instead of cordially com¬ 
 municating and co-operating with the Governor and military 
 authorities, we were, as it were, in a quarantine, cut off from 
 anything like free and unrestrained communication, and I 
 found that Mr. Merriman was actively engaged in arranging 
 military operations in the Gaika location and to the north 
 of it, whilst the Governor and military authorities were 
 kept in the dark as to what he was doing, and its object 
 [ibid, page 91]. 
 
 It was a great comfort to me to have received, up to the 
 moment of my leaving South Africa, the approval of my 
 superiors, and their concurrence in my military views. On 
 my departure, Sir Bartle Frere was pleased to use expressions 
 to me which I naturally do not quote here, nor should I have 
 alluded to the subject had not Mr. Merriman, after failing 
 in his attack on the Governor, made ungenerous remarks 
 about myself when I was far away and unable to answer 
 his assertions. 
 
 Thus ended my stay in this interesting country. I have 
 travelled over every part of it, and received great kindness 
 from the hospitable colonists; and although I met with diffi- 
 
37G 
 
 MY COMMAND IN SOUTH AFRICA. [Chap. XLI. 
 
 culties at the hands of the late Government, 1 can only say that 
 iny relations have always been most pleasant with the officials 
 and the colonists in general. I wish them every success. 
 May Heaven grant them a happy issue out of the difficulties 
 which still beset them, and favour and protect and smile 
 upon the future of the colony ! 
 
 THE EED. 
 
 LUNDOU . I BUSIED BX WILLIAM ILOWLb ALL fcUBb, blAMXUBD STBLET 
 AhD CHAKING CKU8S 
 
A YEAR’S HOUSEKEEPING 
 
 IN 
 
 SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 By LADY BARKER, 
 
 AUTHOR OF “ STATION LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND,” ETC. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 NEW AND CHEAPER EDITION. Crown Sso. 6s. 
 
 LONDON: MACMILLAN AND CO. 
 
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 OR, 
 
 THE FIRST YEARS OF AN ENGLISH COLONY. 
 
 By JOHN ROBINSON, F.E.G.S. 
 
 Crown 8vo. 7s. 6 d. 
 
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