J? "-# *L y PERKINS LIBRARY 1 Juice University Knre Dooks r V TRAVELS THROUGH Holland^ Germany 7 Switzerland^ But efpecially I 3 11 THE CONTENTS. CtJAP. VII. Departure from Holland into Germany. The chief Towns % with. Obfcrvations upon each of them. . . . ubem, Doejlourg, IVefel, Rhinberg, Duis- 47 [II. DuJJeldorp. Its Churches. The Elector and Electrefk The Splendour and Magnificence of their Court, Diverfions. The Gal- lery oi ;~ Pictures. CaBinet of Curiofities. Defcription of the Town and its Government. gg CHAP. IX. Journey from Bujfcldorp to Cologne. Nuys. Character of Charles the Hardy, Duke of Burgundy, and his Hiftory. Worringhcn. Cologne, an Archbifhoprick and Electorate. Its Flying Bridge. Baits over again ft it. Church of St. Urfula. Her Martyrdom, and of her eleven thoufand Virgins. Errors of feveral Authors concerning them. Abfurdities of this Story, and its Origin. Thefe Virgins Relicks, and St. Urfulets Tomb. 63 CHAP. X. Continuation of the Defcription of Cologne. The Church and Hiftory of St. Gereon, and Criticifm upon it. The Quire and Re- lick?. Church, Convent and Library of the Jefuits. Riches of their Sacrifty. The Church of the Maccabees, and their Hiftory reprefented, and that of the eleven thoufand Virgins. The Heads of the Maccabees, and other very curious Relicks. Miftake of Mr. MiJJon concerning a a noted Crucifix. Strange Story of a Woman buried alive. 69 CHAP. XI. Cologne. The Church and Convent of the Cannes. The Ckartreufe. The Inftitution of that Order. The Cathedral. Remarkable Tombs in ir. That of the three Kings in Particular. Reflexions on this Story. y6 CHAP. XII. The Defcription of Cologne continued. A Proteftant Church at Cologne. The Town-houfe; Its Apartments, Pictures, Infcriptions. 86 CHAP. XIII. Continuation of the fame Subject. Abbey of St. Panta- leon. His Hiftory, and that of St. Alban and St. Maurin. Several Se- pulchres. The Origin and Hiftory of Cologne. Its Government. For- tifications. The Illuftrious Perfons it hath given Birth to. 90 CHAP. XIV. Departure from Cologn to Cobkntz. Several Towns on the Road : Bonne, Lintz, Sinlzigh, Andernach defcribed. The Mineral "Waters of this laft. Zol-Engcrs defcribed. 97 CHAP. XV. Coblentz. Archbifhoprick and Electorate. Its Fortifica- tions and Stone Bridge. Confluence of the Rhine and the Mo/elk, and Courfe of the latter. The Citadel exactly defcribed. Its fine Piofpect 1 and THE CONTENTS. Jii and adjacent Countries. A dreadful Fall of a Man from very high Rocks. Convent of the Cordeliers. 99 CHAP. XVI. Ccbkntz continued. The Palace of his Electoral High- nefs of 'Treves. His Character and Court. The Chartreufe. Comical Picture and Story. The Cloifters, Refectory, Church and Relicks. Other Churches and Convents. Bombardment of the City, and mira- culous Prefervation of St. Mary's Church. The Elector's Troops, Title and Revenue. 10 j CHAP. XVII. Journey from Coblcntz to Mayence by Water. A great Number of fmall Towns in the Way. Some impertinent Cuftoms in thefe Parts of Germany. Hiftory of an Archbifliop of Mayence devoured by Rats. Reflexions upon it. 106 CHAP. XVIII. Mayence, An Archbiflioprick and Electorate. Its Ca- thedral. Several Monuments. A droll Proceffion of the Jefuits. The Elector's Palace and Garden. The Citadel. The Chartreufe. The Origin of the Arms of this Archbiflioprick. 1 1 1 CHAP. XIX. Mayence continued. Pretenfion of this City to the Inven- tion of Printing. Origin and Hiftory of Mayence. Councils held there. Has been many Times befieged. Exact Delcription of its Fortifications. Precedency of the Elector in the Electoral College. The Chapter. The Elector's Prerogatives and Revenues. n6 CHAP. XX. Departure from Mayence. The River Meat. Hochji, a little Town. Franc fort, an Imperial City, and its great Commerce. Its celebrated Fairs. The great Church and its Curiofities. Falfe Tradi- tions of the Proteftants at Francfort. Reflexions on the golden Legend. The Quarter of the Jews in this City. Their Hiftory and Cuftoms. 120 CHAP. XXI. Francfort continued. Its Fortifications, and thofe of Saxen- baufen on the other Side of the Mein. The Town-houieand its Singu- larities. Remarkable Story of a late Elector of Saxony. The famous Golden Bull defcribed. Several Particulars concerning the fame. A Summary of the Articles contained in it. This Bull very little minded in feveral material Points. The Conftitution of the Empire very much altered in many Inflances. The Hall where the Emperor dines after his Election. The Entry of Gujlavus Adolf bus into Francfort, 128 CHAP. XXII. Francfort continued. The new Church of the Lutherans. Their Severity towards the Cdlvinifts. Bockenheitn, where the latter go to their Worlhip. Their Riches and great Number. Origin and Go- a 2 vernment Iv THE CONTENTS. vernment of Trancfort. The Jefuiis could never get Footing there. The Councils that have been held at Franc fort. 135 CHAP. XXIII. The Road from Francfort to Wirtzburg. Hanau, a fine Town, and the Capital of a County. Its Hiftory and Origin, and by whom built. Steinbeim and Seligenjiad. The Tomb of Eginard, and Emma hisSpoufe. Afchaffenburg, its great Church and Curiofities. Coun- cils held there. Part of the Black Foreft. Lcngenfeld, Remlingen. 139 CHAP. XXIV. Wirtzburg, a Bifhoprick. The Cathedral. Tombs in ir. Its Treafure. The Church of St. Killian. The Hiftory of the three Apoftles of Franconia ; St. Killian, St. Colonat, and St. Totnam. The Univerfity. 147 CHAP. XXV. Wirtzburg. The new Church. That of the Auguflines. Its Curiofities. Four miraculous Saints. An Anecdote on this Occafion. The Jefuit's Church. They pretend to be poor here. A confiderable Abbacy of Benediilins. A droll Hiftory of a Scotch Abbot. 154 CHAP. XXVI. Wirtzburg. The Citadel, named Marienberg. Its Situa- tion and Fortifications. Its fubterraneous Apartments, filled with pro- digious Tuns of Wine. The Bacchanals which are celebrated there. The new Palace. The Chancery and the Treafury. 1 50, CHAP. XXVII. Wirtzburg. The great Hofpital, and its Splendor. Its Founder. The terrible Ufuries committed here. The Character of the prefent Bifhop of Wirtzburg. His Court. A Defcription of the Town. A Reflexion upon the Prepoffeffion of the French in Favour of their own Nation. The Councils that were held here. A famous Ha- rangue of the Bifhop of Tulle againft the Court of Rome in one of thefe Affemblies. 1 63 CHAP. XXVIII. Departure from Wirtzburg to Bamberg. Gaibacb, a Pleafure Houfe belonging to the Elector of Mayence. ' A Defcription of ir. The great Subjection of the Peafants in Germany to the Military Officers. Reflexions upon it. Ebracb a famous and rich Abbacy. Its Library, Church and Rarities. The Monopoly of thefe Monks. An extraordinary Echo. 16S CHAP. XXIX. Bamberg, the firft Bifhoprick in Germany. The old Pa- lace. The new Palace. The Cathedral. Several Monuments. The Treafure of this Church. Its Riches, and many curious Manufcripts. l 73 CHAP. XXX. Bamberg continued. A Pleafure-houfe of the Elector. Impertinence of a Sculptor. The Jefuit's Church. Thofe of the Dominicans, and of St. Martin. Curious Epitaphs. Another ridicu- lous THE CONTENTS. v Jous Whim of a Sculptor. A fine Notre-Dame, famous for working miraculous Cures. The Character of the Elector of Mayence. His Prerogatives as Bifhop of Bamberg. This Town defcribed. Some Parti- cularities concerning; it. 1S1 'o CHAP. XXXI. Towns between Bamberg and Nuremberg. Fortzheim, a ftrong Place. Its Hiftory. Payerfdorff, Erlang, both belonging to the Margrave of Bareith. A Description of them. Nuremberg, an Impe- rial City. A Feftival of the Merchants there, and of thofe of Sr. Gall. Great Drinking upon this Occafion. The Principal Church of Nurem- berg. 1 8 8 CHAP. XXXII. Nuremberg. The Caftle. A marvelous Lime-tree. A very profound Well. Eppelenn famous Sorcerer. The Sentiments of Agobard and Folangi, concerning Wizards. The Chapel in the Caftle. An Impertinence of a Sculptor. A droll Story about four Pillars in this Chapel. The Emperor's Apartment. The Emperor Leopold's Death. The Church of St. Laurence. Very fine Fountains, and the Infcrip- tions upon them. The Magiftrates of Nuremberg not very deferving of the Titles of Fathers of their Country. Proofs of this Aitertion, The Hofpital and the Church belonging to it. The Curiofities there The Church of St. Catherine. 193 CHAP. XXXIII. Nuremberg. The Arfenal, which is not fhewn now and why. The Town-houfe. The Apartment of the Deputies of the Circle of Franconia. Several good Pictures. The Sacrifice of Abraham comically reprefented. Other ridiculous Fancies of Painters. Cabinets of Rareties. A moving Figure of Cuftavus Adolphus. Great Men abfurd- ly accufed of Sorcery. A Medal ftruck at Nuremberg in Honour of Pope Clement XI. Reflexions upon this Singularity. 200 CHAP. XXXIV. Nuremberg. A very fine Fountain. Foolifh Cufloms in this City. Pleaiant little Stories, the public Library filled with good Books. Pictures, Manufcripts in it, and other Curiofities. Ac- count of a Country Wedding. Inlcriptions in Honour of the Emperor Leopold. His exaggerated Elogiums. Other no lefs hyperbolical ones. Another magnificent Fountain. Some very particular Infcriptions and Epitaphs. 207 CHAP. XXXV. Nuremberg. The Author vifits the Prince of Bareith. His Character and the Hiftory of his Lady. A Church belonging to the Cahinifts without the Walls of the City. Nuremberg defcribed. Its Hiftory. Gun- Powder invented by a Monk of that City. Pegnitz and Redniiz two Rivers paffing here. Few Catholics at Nuremberg. Its Magifirates. The learned Men it has produced. 214 CHAP. VI THE CONTENTS. CHAP. XXXVI The Road to Augsburg. Scbwabacb, IHllzburg, TFeif- fenburg. The tiiftory of the latter ; it is an Imperial City. Monbeim, Yfeng. Keyferfheim a large Abbey. Sh Battle fought there in the lait War. Domwert. Revolutions that happened in this City. Blenheim the famous B.it:le there, exactly defcribed. The Pyramid de- ligned to be erected upon that Spot, and its Infcription. Pibrach, a fine Borough. A Crucifix there, very famous for the Miracles wrought by it. 222 CHAP. XXXVII. Augsburg an Imperial City. Its magnificent Town- houfe exactly defcribed. A beautiful Steeple. The Fountain of Au- gtifius very fplendid. 233 CHAP. XXXVIII. Critical Obfervations upon the fo much celebrated Continence of Alexander the Great, and that of Scipio Africanus on an almoft fimilar Occafion. 238 CHAP. XXXIX. Augsburg. The two other Eleaoral Chambers in the Town-houfe, and their Pictures. A fine Steeple. The Fountain of Au- gujlus very magnificent. A Houfe of Englijh Ladies. A plealant Story of a certain Director of Confciencc;. The principal Church. The Ori- gin and Hiftory of the Counts Fuggers of Augsburg. The marvellous Secret Gate, and its Mechanifm. The Water-Towers. 244 CHAP. XL. Augsburg. Several Proceffions among the Catholics of this City. A Convent of Cannes. The CanonefTes of St. Stephen. A Roman Infcription. Great Fondnefs of the Romans for public Shews. 2.31 CHAP. XLI. Augsburg. College and public Library. The Curiofitics in it. Private Libraries. A wonderful Horfe. Reflexions upon the Syftem of thofe who refolve all the Actions of Beafts into Clock- Work. A Remarkable Story of Monkeys at the Cape of Good-Hope. Their Love to Men and Women. Animals are not mere Machines. Obfer- vations on the Pride and Ignorance of Mankind. Man is in many Re- fpecls inferior to feveral Brutes. The marvellous Inftinct of Rats. An ancient Infcription in Honour of a Mule. 255 CHAP. XLII. Augsburg. The Cathedral. Pictures in it.' Strange Whims and Impertinences of a Painter. The Bifhop of Augsburg. His Palace and his Jurifdiction. The famous ConfefTion of Augsburg. Re- flexions upon the Politics and Religion of Charles V. Emperor. The Caprice of a Painter. 265 CHAP. XLIII. Augsburg. College and Houfe of the Jefuits very mag- nificent. Avery lingular Picture. A curious Hiftory of a young Spa- THECONTENTS. v ii nijh Gentleman who earneftly defired the Gift of Continence. Their Library. The Reception of a Burgefs into the Quality of a Captain of the Militia. The Arfenal. A droll Story concerning the Women and Maids of Augsburg. 271 CHAP. XLIV. Augsburg. A Cabinet of Qiriofities. Many curious Re- man Infcriptions. A Confpiracy formed in Favour of the Elector of Bavaria, and detected at Munich. The funeral Obfequies of Leopold Emperor at Vienna. The Impudence of a Jefuit in his funeral Pane- gyric upon that Prince, and ludicroufly chadded by the Emperor Jofcph. 274 CHAP. XLV. Augsburg. The Suburbs. The Port of Sr. Croix, and the Paint- ings on it. Omiffion of Father Maimbourg. A grofs Anachronifm in a German Painter. The Port of the Monks Minors. The Paintings and Infcriptions on it. A ftrange Story of Al 1 1 la King of the Huns. He takes and ravages Augsburg. A miraculous Madonna. Several very ancient Roman Infcriptions 279 CHAP. XLVI. Augsburg. Hiftory of this City. Its ancient and modem Commerce. A Defcription of it. Its Government. Its State with Re- fpeft to Religion. Its Hofpital. Several Fountains. An Office for Wines and Salt. 287 CHAP. XLVII. Augsburg. A fhort Excurfion by the Author into Bava- ria. A fine Plain. Jews feverely treated at Augsburg. A fingular Pi- cture made to defame them. The Story of it refuted. Several Tombs in the Abbacy of St. Ulrich. The Hiftory of this Saint. The Church. Riches of the Convent. The Apartments. The Library. The Pol i te- nds of the BenedicTm Monks. 292 CHAP. XLVIII. Augsburg. Abbey of St. Ulrich. Several Roman Infcrip- tions in it. Reflexions on the exceffive Love of Antiquity. The Church of St. Croix. Two other Infcriptions. Curious Clocks. A whimfical Thought of a Painter. The Ruins of the Citadel. The Hiftory of its Sieges. 297 CHAP. XLIX. Departure from Augsburg. Mindelbeim. Memmingen, an Imperial City. Leut-kirk likewife an Imperial City. The Fortifications of Lindazv, an ugly Town, tho' Imperial too. A Digreffion concerning the Imperial Cities in Germany. The Lake of Conjiance. Aramianus Marcellinus refuted in refpect to the Rhine. 301 CHAP. L. Conjiance, a Bifhopric. The famous Council held there. The Hiftory of Pope John XXIII. who was depofed in it. The hliftory of "John I Jufs, and jerom of Prague. A Copy of the Pafs given him by the via THE CONTENTS. the Emperor Sigifmond; a very rare Piece. Jerom's Harangue to theCouncil. His Firmncls in Death. Fine Teftimonies rendered to the Memory of theft two Martyrs by their Enemies. Other Particularities touching this Council, and the Confequences of it. 306 CHAP. LI. Con/lance. The grand Hall where theCouncil met. A Con- vent of Monks Minors, A Picture of St. Anthony of Padua, and its Legend. The Church of St. Stephen. A remarkable Epitaph. The Church of the Cordeliers. Tomb and Hiftory of the Cardinal of Flo- rence. The Church of the Dominicans. Very fingular Sculptures. A Defcription of Conflancc. Its Fortifications. The Bifhop and his Diocefe. A Digreffion concerning the Ecclefiaftical Princes of the Empire. 311 CHAP. LII. Lake of Zell. Reichnaiv, a remarkable Ifland in that Lake, and Defcription of it. A rich Abbacy in this Ifland. The Church. The Tomb of the Emperor Charles the Fat. His Epitaph and Portrait. Other Curiofities. Singular Relicks. A prodigious large Emerald. The TheLibrary. Hiftory of this Abbacy. No venemous Beafts in this Ifland : And why ? 318 CHAP. LIII. Towns, and fine Country between Reichnaiv and Shaff- houfen. Mr. Hollander, Magiftrate of that City, Poflefibr of the Conlu- lar Medals of Charles Patin. Reflexion upon thofe who collect fuch Kind of Curiofities. The famous Cafcade of the Rhine defenbed. A iurprifing Hiftory. Schaffhonfen defcribed. The Origin of its Name and Arms. 323 CHAP. LIV. Zurich, Capital of a Canton. The Cathedral. The Town- houie. The Arfenal, and the Curiofities in it. The public Library very confiderable. Divers Manufcripts, and other Singularities. The Hiftory of the Reformer Zuinglias. 327 CHAP. LV. Zurich. Its Situation very agreeable. A fmall Ifland in its Lake called lluttenica, and why. Public Edifices here. The Fortification?, i£c. Hiftory of this Town. Cuftoms and Manners of its Inhabitants. Luxury forbid by their Sumptuary Laws. The Women very referved. Bad Politics. The great Men of Zurich. This Canton rich, and the tirft of the Thirteen. A miraculous and moft fingular Image of the Vir- gin five Leagues from Zurich. 332 CHAP. LVI. A fine Country between Zurich and Baden. Jmrapcn, a large Village, where are the famous Baths of Baden. A Defcription of them. Baden, where the general Diet of the Sivifs afiemblcs. Its Situation and Government. Infcriptions. Mcllingen, the firulleft Republic in Europe. A Defcription of it, and Hiftory. Lentzbarg and Aaravi in the Canton 1 of TO THE Right Honourable THE Lord JOHN SACVILLE. My Lord, ^iKCi Educations to Perfbns diftinguifhed by their g||l| Rank and Merit, are often intended and ufed by nay of an innocent Stratagem to ffW^i^ ^ e ^P a W° r k m making its way into the *•*■■ World : But being fully perfuaded of the Excellence of this, and fare of the good Reception it would meet with from the Public without that Aid, if, I prefume, my Loid, to addrefs it to you in that Form ; 'tis merely out of real Refpecl:, and, if I may „ufe that familiar Expreflion, a moft tender Regard for your Lordihip. In a long continued Intimacy, which I formerly had the Honour of enjoying with your Lordfhip, I could not avoid difcovcring a great many excellent Virtues, happy * Difpo- DEDICATION. Endeavour, my Lord, by your Zeal, by your Love for your native Country, to equal that moil excellent Model. This will lead you to Glory, and tranfrnit your Name with Honour to Pofterity. I am with the moft profound Refpe£r, my Lord, Your Lordftiip's Moft obedient and Mofl humble Servant, Daniel Soyer* PREFACE BY THE EDITOR. THIS Work lay buried in Oblivion for upwards of thirty feven Years, and without my helping Hand would, in all Probability, have been irrecoverably loft. It is therefore high Time to com- municate to the Public, a Performance fo ufeful, and, at the fame time, fo entertaining. It doubtlefs may appear very ftrange, that the Author, who died but nine or ten Years ago, did not publifh it himfelf. But after having con- fidered very attentively a fhort Preface of his, (which, in my Opinion, was not material enough to be prefixed to this Work) I have fufficient Grounds to conclude, that he was reftrained chiefly, on that Occafion, upon the three following Accounts. Firft, by his Illnefies, which were many, long, and very grievous, efpe- cially in the laft Years of his Life: So that being confined to his Apart- ment, and very often to his Bed, he confequently was incapable of produc- ing and recommending his Work, in a proper Manner, to the learned World. It appears, fecondly, that, through an Excefs of Modefty, he dreaded the Judgment of the Public ; and that, never fatisfied with what he had done, he was perpetually employed in revifing and amending his Writings, and making considerable Additions to them : A noble Example indeed ! and which ought to intimidate many Writers, who, with far lefs Capacity than our Author, have the Confidence to brave that inexorable Judge. Laftly, I conjecture that Monficur de Blainville ,was aw'd by another kind of Fear. In many Places he had fpoke with an uncommon Freedom of feveral Perfons, and thofe too of the higheft Rank and DifHnction, mo'.t of whom were living a long Time after he had ended his Travels. Now, calling to mind the extcnfive Power of Princes, and how ready they ge- nerally are to refent the Reflexions caft upon them by Writers, he, in all j Proba- ii P R E F A C E. Probability, dreaded fome Storm from that Qjarter : elpecially from Italy, and Rome in particular, wbofe Grandees he had often lamed, and that with the utmoft Severity. I own, that by fuppreffing or foftning fome of the harfheft of thofc Paf- fage?, he might eafily have got rid of this Uneafinels. But then, as he was naturally inclined to fatirize, I am apt to think that he was particularly fond of thole very PJItges •, and confequently that he could l'carce have been prevailed upon to retrench them. When I mention his fatirical Inclination, I don't mean that Mr. d.e B!ainiil!e was for traducing, right or wrong ; but that after the Example of Horace, Juvenal, and Rerfms, he loved to call Things by their true Names ; and to cenfure, without the lead Referve, the grofs Vices of thole whole ill Example is extremely pernicious to Mankind. However that be, I have endeavoured to fupply this Defect, if it be one to profefs a downright Sincerity, by foftning here and there fome of thefe Strokes ; and that merely for the Sake of fuch delicate Readers as are per- haps too much accuftomed to fpeak, or rather to hear others fpeak, with an exceffive Regard for Men in exalted Stations, efpecially Sovereign Princes; who in Fact, feem only entitled to our Veneration in proportion to their real Merit ; or, in other Words, according to the more or lefs Good they do to thofe who live under them. For this very Reafon, I did not always think proper to obferve that Rule •, and now and then left my Author entirely to his own Sincerity: For Inftance, in the Cafe of the two late Emperors Leopold and Jofeph, Father and Son, whofe Characters he has drawn with the utmoft Freedom. But then, they appeared to me to refcmble fo much the Originals, and fo perfectly anfwered the Idea which Hiftory has given us of thefe two Princes, that I could not allow myfelf the Liberty of foftning even the moft incon- siderable Feature in their Pictures. * But if Monfieur de Bkinvilk be inexorable, in expofing the real Defects of fome Sovereigns, I muft do him the Juftice to obferve, that he fhows no lefs Impartiality with Regard to the eminent Virtues of others. In the Courfe of his Travels he met with feveral whom he reprefents under fuch sirniable Colours, that the Reader is almoft tempted to worfhip them, as fo many living Images of the Supreme Being, as Tutelar Angels fent among Mankind, in order to make them as happy, as it is poflible for Men to be in this World. As I never had the Advantage of being acquainted with our Author, I am by no means able to anfwer the Expectation of the Public, who, doubtlefs would be very dcfirous to learn fome Particulars of his Life. We generally are fond of knowing every thing, and even the minuteft Cir- cumftances, relating to a Man whole Lucubrations have afforded us fome Amufement or Inftruction. But all my Endeavours to gratify the Reader in that Particular have hitherto proved uniuccel-Jul. What PREFACE. ill What I could gather from all my Enquiries amounts to this. Monfieur de Blainviilc was born in the Province of Picardy in France. Having ap- ply'd himfelf clofely, in his younger Year?, to the mod ufeful Branches of Learning, eipecially Polite Literature, he left his Native Country, on ac- count of the Revocation of the famous Edict of Nanfs, in 16S6, and re- tired into Holland. Here he lived fome Years ; and v/as Cent in 1693, to Madrid, in Quality of Secretary to the States General*?, Embafiy, when Myn-heer van Citters was Embaffidor at that Court. This Poft, of very great Truft, he filled with Diltinction four Years at lead ; and then quit- ted .it on account of the Death of the laid Minilter *. From Spain he came directly to London, where having refided a conliderable Time without any Employment, he was at laft invited, by a Gentleman of Diftinction, + to accompany his two Sons in making, what they call, the Grand Tour of Eu- rope. He joyfully accepted this Offer, as it gave him a frefh Opportunity of feeing the World •, efpecially that Part of it which he had not yet vi- lited, I mean Italy. In a Word, he fpent no lefs than four Years in this delightful Journey, which afforded him the Materials of the curious and entertaining Collection I now offer the Public, and of which I fhall here give an Account. This Account, I imagine, will be more acceptable, and of greater Ufe to the Reader, than any Particulars I might have collected concerning the Author's Life. Strictly (peaking, we are concerned only with his Works ; and by a thorough Knowledge of them, we fhall be far better ac- quainted with his true Character, than if we had had a perfonal .Acquain- tance with him : Nothing being more certain, than that an Author can fcarce avoid drawing himielf to the Life in his Writings. And as I have perufed thole before us a very confiderable Time, and with all poflible At- tention, I prefumethat I am thereby enabled to give the Reader a con> pleat Satisfaction in that Refpect. This Work is written byway of Journal, or in an exact Chronological Order. 'Twas Mr. de Blainville's Cuftom to fee down his Flints daily, and fend, at Intervals, to a learned Correfpondent in England, an Account of the feveral Particulars which had happened to him, as well as of the va- rious remarkable Objects he had met with in the Courfe of his Travels. He looked upon this Method as the eafieft and raoft natural, and as giving him the Opportunity of treating with Wit and Humour, the feveral Sub- jects handled by him. In this Epiftolary Style a Writer may deliver himfelf with a peculiar Life and Spirit ; be cheerful, and rally as much * The Reader may well imagine, that our ingenious Traveller could not refidc fo long in that Kingdom, without making a vaft Number of curious Remarks upon it: And this he li2d aflually done, as appears by feveral Vaflages of this Work. But the Ship that carried to Holland the Corpfe of the late Embafl'ador, and on board of which were his Paper?, was unfortunately call away. By this Accident we are deprived of his Cbfcrvations ; a Lofs the more to be lamented, as that Country is feldom frequented by Travellers, and confcqucntly very little known. f Mr. B/atbivait, then Secretary at War. The Eldett of his two Sons is dead, and the Second, a very worthy Gentleman, is now Colonel in the King's Horfe Guards. 2 as \v PREFACE. as he dtfafeg ; now and then make his Friend fpeak in his Turn ; ftart a Difficulty, or raile an Objection ; in order to give him an Occafion of Bering the one, and refolving the other. In fhort, he may fay a thou- fand pleafant Things, which would fcarce be buffered in a Diffcrtation, or in a mere Historical Relation. This of our Traveller is amazing on many Accounts, efpecially with Regard to the endlefs Variety of curious Subjects contained in it. 'Tis unaccountable to me, how he could have lcifure enough to put his Mate- rials together, to range them in fuch Order, and defcribe them with the extreme Accuracy, which is lb remarkable throughout his whole Work. I know by my own Experience how difficult it is, amidft the Toils, Fa- tigue?, and numberlefs Diffractions which are infeparable from a long Jour- ney ; and that confuted Multitude of Objects which offer themfelves to the F.ye and Mind of a curious Traveller, for him to fet down every thing confiderable he meets with. But the Truth is, Monfieur de Blainvilk was one in ten thoufand ; a Man equally fagacious and indefatigable. He was bcfkles, fober and temperate in the higheft Degree, he ieldom allowing himfelt even the moft lawful Pleafures of Life. Thus he found Time, when other Travellers can fcarce find any, and thefe invaluable Moments he improved ufefully at Home ; he, whenever he had loft a few Days, fometimes fpending whole Nights in enriching and adorning his Com- jrolition. The more I perufe it, the more I am convinced, that it far exceeds whatever has been hitherto publifhed of this Kind. Our Author feems to have poffclTed, by Nature and by the ftrongeft Application, all the Qua- lifications requifite in One, who intends to communicate his Obfervations to the World. In the firft Place, he was Mailer of moft Modern Lan- guages, at leaft of liich European ones as are generally efteemed the moft ufclul. He underftood Englifh, French, German, Dutch, Spanijh and Italian almoft equally well. Thus qualified, he could inform himfelf, by Read- ing and Converlation, of a numberlefs Multitude of Particulars, which muft neceffanly have efcaped the Obfervation of other Travellers, who were commonly deficient in that Refpect. He alfo was thoroughly enabled to tnliven, as he has frequently done, Narratives, with his agreeable and ufe- ful Quotations, and to fpeak of every thing with uncommon Accuracy. For want of it, how ftrangely have many Hiftorians, and Writers of Tra- vels difguilcd numberlefs Names of Places, as well as of Men and Things? How aukardly have they often copied PafTages of Authors, Infcriptions, and fuch like, that happened to be writ in a Tongue to which they were utter Strangers ? But here, I may alTert with Confidence-, that every thing is cor- rect ; and that the Author's Orthography is unqueftionable in the feveral Languages above-mentioned. As to thole commonly called, the Learned ones, I mean the Greek and Latin Languages, every Page of his Work demonflxates how familiar they were PREFACE. v were to him. Witnefs the nurnberlefs Quotations, and happy Applica- tions made by him of the mod beautiful Parages in ancient Writers, efpe- cialiy the Poets, which he explains on thofe Occafions, and thereby adorns ilmoft every Subject treated of by him. The late ingenious Mr. Addifon, an thefhort Account of his Travels, had diflinguifhed himfelf thereby in a peculiar Manner •, and yet that excellent Writer is nor, I dare venture to affirm, any way comparable, in this Refpect, to Monfieur de Biainville *. Next to Languages, the Knowledge ot Geography and Chronology, of Hillory Ancient and Modern, are highly neceflary to a Traveller, and in all thefe Branches of Learning our Author excelled. Nothing can be more entertaining than to follow him from one Province to another, and from Town to Town ; to hear him give an exact Account of their Situation, ot their Pall and Prefent, their Civil and Eccleiiaftical State, as well as of the various Revolutions they have undergone. One cannot but admire the Strength of his Memory, which furnifhes him, upon almoll every Sub- ject, with fome curious hiflorical Fact, and the Judicioufnefs with which he applies it. The Roman Hiftory, in particular, he had ftudied with a more than ordinary Attention ; infomuch, that he had compofed a de- lightful Abridgment of it, which I have by me ; and may, perhaps, one Day communicate to the Public. Our Author was equally well verfed in mofl of the Liberal Arts ; fuch as Architecture, Sculpture, Painting, Fortifications, &c. This is evident from the very accurate Defcriptions he gives of the magnificent Buildings, Ancient and Modern, Sacred and Prophane, which he lb frequently meets with,efpecially in Italy ; as well as of the many ilrong Towns, whofe Works hedeicribes, and very ofterf difcants upon, with as much Art and Skill as the ablell Engineer could have done. His Diligence and Accuracy are likewife remarkable in many other In- flances : In his copying an endlefs Number of curious Infcriptions and Epi- taphs, ancient and modern, mofl of which had never been pubhfhed, and fome very imperfectly : In giving a full and judicious Account of the mofl famous Libraries, Cabinets of Curiofities, Collections of Medals: Of great Men both dead and living, Princes, Generals, Scholars, Artifls : Of the Courts of many Sovereigns, of their Character, their Miniflers, Politics, Revenues ; in fhort, of every thing ufeful and entertaining. And in treat- ing of thefe feveral Particulars, he ever fliews a fuperior Tafte and Judgment. His very Digreffions are extremely entertaining and inftructive : Wit- nefs the many Anecdotes, or fecret Hiflories, fcattered up and down his Work : His judicious Remarks upon the Government of Venice, and his hiflorical Detail concerning the feveral Changes it has undergone, from * Mr. Addifon'/ Book had juft made its firft Appearance it. Public, *i!l be highly delighted to find, that our Author, by his accu- rate Defcriptions, has laved them this Trouble ; and that, without (birring from their Fire-fide, they may be Spectators, as it were, of that immenie Variety of pleafing Objects drawn from the Life. With Regard to myielf, I freely confels, that I am one of the Latter ; and confequently, in a particular Manner obliged to our ingenious Tra- veller. My Curiofity is fo fully fatisfied, by his lively Pictures, that I could fcarce be prevailed upon to go and view the Originals upon the Spot, though I (hould be enabled to do it with all imaginable Conveniency. f*S THE .P. of F rjljst cx C^ixr . Canton . Cou . Ccuixtv . Bal .Jiaili'unck, . Tex* . I^rntory . .J5 . . Abbey . B OT7JEL : GOG 2* X in, in.,,,— ■ ■P'S- 3 */ JO +0 TRAVELS THROUGH Holland \ Germany , Switzerland \ Italy ^ &c. -Ire quo vult fortis, terrajque per omnes Currerc, diverfos hominum perpendere mores, Diverfos fpeclare locos, £f? vivere ubique : Qualibcl urbs totufque orbls patria effe videtut Egregio, fortique viro. Marcellus Palingenius. SIR, [3 HAVE examined upon the Spot all the Accounts of the United Provinces which have been publifhed, that by Mr. Mi£on, very lately, in particular, and I find them lb full of Faults of ' Omijfion and Commiffwn, to ufe a favourite Phrafe of Mr. Bayle ; fo unaccurate, or fo deficient ; fo imperfect in almotl every Matter of Confcquence, that it is by no means an unneceflary Undertaking to correct their Errors, and fupply their Defects, and to give a more fall and exact Relation of this truly curious Country. One has no great Reafon to expect more Accuracy in their Defcriptions of other Parts of the World, there being none that bet- ter deferves the Attention of Travellers than this. But, tho' I mould not find my PredecefTors, who have given us their Travels, quite fo faulty, when I come to compare their Defcriptions of other Countries or States with the Originals; fince you were pleafed at parting to defire a Journal of mine, I B fhall 1705. fanuery. TRAVELS 1705. fhall, in Obedience to your Commands, fend you from time to time the bed Janu ary. Accounts I am able, of whatever feems to me moft worthy of Obfervation, L ~ v_ where I make any Stay, with Relation to Government, Policy, Religion, Manners, Arts, Commerce, Learning, Natural Curiofities, &c. I.i Truth I am obliged to you for laying this Talk upon me •, for while I confider myfelf as engaged to give you a faithful, and as fatisfadtory Information as I can, about every Thing of Moment ; my Attention can never flag ; but every Thing worth communicating to you will give me double Fie. ure. I now fend you fome Mifcellaneous Obfervations upon the Netherlands, in which many Miftakes, or Inaccuracies of Mr. Mifjon and others, who have defcribed this Country are corrected : Afterwards you fhall have a Journal continued in Form : We are foon to fet out for Germany. C II A P. I. Of Rotterdam, its Name and Origin. A Defiription of it. The Statue of Erafmus. Many Particulars of his Life. The great Church. Several "Tombs of Admirals. The Meufe. Rotter.- T B e g' n with the City of Rotterdam, which took its Name from its Sirua- dam. X t' 011 * at the Mouth of a fmall River called Rotte : For Dam in the Flemifh The Ori- Tongue fignifies a Bank, Mole, or Rampart : So that Rotterdam iignifies the sin of us M ] ej or Rampart of the River Rotte. I fliould not have made this Ob- fervation, which is indeed of very little Importance, if Edward Brown, a learned Englifb Phyfician, had not faid, that it derived its Name from one Rotterus, King of the French, who is interred here : But not to infill upon the Etymology juft mentioned, which is much more natural, it is certain, that the name Rotterus is not to be found, neither in the fabulous nor in the true Chronology of the Kings of France. Its Def- The Harbour of this City is large, and divided into three Bafons, in which cription. there are at all Sealons, befides a great Number of Merchant-Ships, a pood many Men of War of the Squadron of the Meufe : (for the Naval Free of the States-General of the United Provinces confifts of five Squadrons, tiiat of the Meufe, that of Amjlerdam, that of Zeland, that of North Holland, and that of Friejland.) That Part of this Town which lies along the M rife, is at prefent the beft peopled, and moft bufy and mercantile ; but every Corner of it is pretty much fo. Yet it is quite an open City ; its Fortifications be- ing of no Confequence. It is however one of thofe which contributed the moft towards the Eftablifhment of the Common-wealth. All the Streets and Houfes in it are exceeding neat, as they are indeed in all the Towns of Holland in general. Affuredly 1 ought not to mifs putting you in mind, that the celebrated Erafmus. Drfidenus Erafmus, one of the principal Reftcrers of polite Literature, was born here, his Mother conceived him at Tergoud, but for c 1 tain Reafons fhe came to Rotterdam to be brought to Bed. His vale Erudition embolden- ed him to attack the Infallibility of Cicero in the Roman Tongue, which the Learned thromh Holland. ? Learned of that Age fo greatly revered ; and he mewed feveral Spots in He find* that Sun of pure Latin/ty, which none before him had difcovered : This dar- ^« ult ) vit! ' ing Atrmpt embroiled him in a Quarrel with Scaliger the Father, a great g Aumiiv. >f Cicero ; * and his Highnefs of Verona gained nothing in this Li- terary-Skiimifh, but the Nickname of Ciceronianus. I am furpriled that Sca- liger ihould have been offended at a Modern for finding Fault with Cicero's Language, fince one of his extenfive Learning could not be ignorant, that an Ancient had long ago charged him with having a Tincture of the Savoyard, as we learn from Juvenal in his 7th Satire. .''' ; Ruffian alque alios cadit fua quarlK; - therans could never forgive him for having faid in his Writings, Poteram in Lulherand fatlione ejfe Corypheus ; ma/ui totius Germanic in me odia concitare quam a facrofancla ecclcfix conforlio difcedcre. This and lbme other fuch Ex- preffions in his Works have made not a few fufpect him of having ambitioned of a Cardinal's Hat ; and the Monks of his Time, who were, the greater Part of them, very ignorant and debauched, charged him with Latitudinarianifm and Impiety. There have however always been very many of all Sects who have greatly honoured him, and looked upon his Reputation as immortal. He was loaded with an Infinity of Prefents by the Princes of his Time, He wns whom he has celebrated in his Epiftles. I have read fome wherc,that when he Wl ;ll re- went to the French Court,he defired that Francis I. ('who was a great Patron of CC1VC ! 1 at Learning ;) might be told, That a Stranger come from a Country where the hand c c France. is niucb lower than the Water, and the Inhabitants burn their Mother, defired the Honour of an Audience from his Majefiy. And that having obtained it, he told the King his Name, and thus explained this Riddle to him : That without the very ftrong Banks, which the Dutch fupport at a vaft Expence, the Sea would foon lay their whole Country under Water -, and the Fuel they commonly ufe is Turf, dug out of the Earth, the common Mother of Man- kind. This Prince carefs'd him not a little, entertained him with great Re- fpedl: at his Court for a confiderable Time, and honoured him with very di- ftii guifhing Prefents. * The Tranflator begs leave, out of Regard to Ciccnh Writings, to obfervc, that Erapnus haviri contracted fome Prejudices againll Cicero when young, made a Recantation of them when old, in a Letter to his Friend Vlatetau. See Era/. Ep. ad Jo. Ulat. in Cic. Tufc. Quaft- ana Dr. Middle/on s Preiace to his Life of Cicero, p. 32. B 2 Henry 4 TRAVELS A pleafant Henry VIII. King of England, did him the Honour to write feveral Letters Trick the to him with his own Hand, in which he earneftly entreated him to come to , his Court, that he might confer with him about the Change he had made played > n n ' s Kingdom with Regard to Religion. Erafmus obey'd, and went into nun. England; and this Prince, who was naturally haughty, and of very difficult Accefs, received him in the moft gracious Manner. They fpent feveral Days in Conference about the Reformation of the Clergy, the greater Part of whom Jived very fcandaloufly •, and it is believed that this learned Man gave Advices to the Monarch, which he happily followed. When Erafmus was about to return into his own Country, the King gave him new Marks of his Favour, and prefented him with a hundred Angels of Gold, which at that Time made a very confiderable Sum : But he fent private Orders under his own Hand to the Cuftom-houfe at Grave/end, which vifits the Baggage of all who leave England, to take his Money from him, under Pretence of executing the Law which forbids exporting more Money out of England than is barely neceffary for one's Expence to the firft Sea-port he intends to land at. This Order being punctually obeyed, Erafmus returned to London, and went to the King, who afk'd him with a Smile, what was the Rcafon of his fudden Return. Erafmus told the King his Adventure with a very melancholy Tone. His Majefty laughed moft heartily, and commended the Diligence of his Officers. In fine, after diverting himfelf a while with this Frolick, he owned to him, that it was done by his Order ; made him a Prefent of another hundred Angels, with Provifions of all Sorts for his Voyage, and commanded a PafJ-port to be given him, with Orders to the Cuftom-houfe of Gravefend to reftore him the hundred Angels they had taken from him. And thus Erafmus went back to Holland, charmed with his gracious Reception, and the Honour's the King of England had done him ; and with two hundred Angels of Gold in his Purfe. iiisbrafs A brafs Statue of this very learned Man is one of the principal Curiofities in Statue. Rotterdam. It ftands in the great Market-place, and is as big as the Life ; it has for Drapery a long Gown, and a Doctor's Bonnet on its Head, and holds an open Book. It was erected by Order of the Magiftracy in Memory of this moft illuftrious Citizen, with this Infcription in Capital Letters. DESIDERIO. ERASMO. And its Magno. scientiarum. atqjje. litteraturae. politioris. vin- Infcrip- DICI. ET. I NST A U R A TORI. VIRO. SAECULI. SUI. PRIMARIO. CIVI. OMNIUM. PRAESTANTISSIMO. AC. NOMINIS. IMMOR T A L I T A T E M. SCRIPTIS. AEVITERNIS. JURE. CONSECUTO. S.P.Q^ ROT TE ROD A MUS. NE. QJJOD. TANT1S. APUD. SE. SUOS. QJJE. POSTEROS. VIRTUTI- BUS. PU.AEMIUM. DEESSET. STATUAM. BANC. EX. AE RE. PUBLICO. ERIGENDAM. CURAVERUNT. On through Holland. 5 On the Front of the Pedeflal to the Left are the following Verfes : Barbaric talem fe debeliator ERASMUS, Maxima laus Batavi nominis, ore tidit. Reddidit en fatis ars obhiclata fmi/lris, De tanto Jpolium naSla quod urna viro eft. Ingetiii coelejte jubar, ma; it f que caduco Tempore qui reddat, folia ERASMUS erit. This City had firft of all fet up a Statue of Wood in Honour of Erafmus : One of Stone was erected afterwards ; and la ' of all that of Brafs, which ftill fubfifts, in 1622. He died at Bajle in 1536. Mandeflo in his Voyage of Holland places the Birth of Erafmus in 1457, ant ^ makes this great Man ten Years older than he was when he died. Miffon, who fcems to value himfelf fo much upon his Exactnefs, has not Infcrip. only nor given us the Infcription on the Pedeltal of this Statue, but he has I j i ™^" ( - alio omitted the two laft Verfes of that on the Front of the Houle where where Erafmus was born. Here it is at full Length. Erafmus was born, JEdibus his ortus mundum d?coravit ERASM US Artibus wgenuis, Religione, Fide. Fatalis feries nobis invidit ERAS MUM, At DESiDERIUM tdkre non potuit. Theie is another Infcription in Fl'tnijh on the fame Front, with a Buft of Erafmus, and thefe four Spanifh Vtrfes. En eft a Cafa es nafcido ERAS MO Theologo celebrado, Por DoSirina fenalado La pura Fe nos a revelado. As mean and pitiful as this Houfe is, it has had the Honour to have been Thfs vifited bv feveral great Princes, and amongit others by Philip II. of Spain : ¥™!\ vi " This Monarch being at Rotterdam in the Year 1595 would needs fee it, and k* tT J[ accompanied by Mary Queen of Hungary, his Aunt, went into the Chamber great where Erafmus was born. But this Houle, rendered fo remarkable by the Pr ' n cef. Birth of fo confiderablc a Per onage, is at prefent a little blind Tavern. The fame Traveller, in his Account of the great Church of Rotterdam, Tombs of and as formerly hanging Tower, does net deign to take the Ieaft Notice of th . ree Ad - three remarkable Tombs in it. The firll is that of Admiral Corneille de Wit, [j^™ 1 ^" built in the Form of an Altar, and adorned with Pillars of white Marble. CburcIL There is a long latin Infcriotion on it in Praife of the Defunct, which in- Of Adml- forms us, among others Things, that this brave Man was Admiral for the ral dl l! "'■ Space 6 TRAVELS of twenty Years, that he fought fifteen pitch'd Sea-Battles, Rarb squall • ™-"-\ if c l a les ttiat, it is the firfl: of the five Ad- Trade. iniralty Seats in t! . United Provinces •, it is known to he the moll conlideral e in Commen e next to 1 ed ithas pufhed its Trade, wil 1 this fhort Tinrc, in fuch a Manner, a, to threaten no final] Diminuti o that of the uwier. As Rotterdam is incom] ' etter fituated for Com ce on Account of the Meuje that vvaflics ohe oiuo ot it,an j runs into theSt . the 1 iMtance through Holland. 7 a Diftance of about Four or five Leagues from it ; this Town has for fcmetime 1705- engroffcd almoft all the Trade wit' 1 England, and no fmall Part of that with 7^" y- France. If Things continue ib for Tome Years, the Prediction of a certain KoT . IER _ Perfon, whom many look upon as a Proph?r, but one of very difficult Jn- -,, M . terpretation, may happen to be fulfilled, : I mean the famous Nojlradamus, Noflrada- who fays in one of his Centuries. W " J s Pr0 " ' phecy ->.-i- cerning it. JJn pur viendra qiicn fage RepubJique Noble Cite rivale d'Amfterdam ; Se fern richc & puiffante a fon dam ; Meufe au Texel St era la Pratique. You know that the Meufe is claffed among the great Rivers in Europe. The M ,\ Its Sorce is near Moniigny le Roy in Cbampain, and not, as fome Maps a iine R '- place it, from Mount Fegefus. It runs to Verdun, Sedan, Mezicres, j^'oriei Charlemont, Dinant, Namur, Huy, Liege, Vifet, Maeftricht, Mafeick, Rure- andCouke monde, Venlo, Grave, Ravevfteyn, Heufden, Worcum, Gorcbom, Dordrecht, Rotterdam, Delfs-haven, Schiedam, Flaerdingen, Macjlandfluys, the Brille, and difcharges itfelf into the Ocean, a League beyond this laft Town ; but not without being enlarged by feveral other Rivers, as the Sambre, the Feje % anciently calied Fiturgis, the Ourte, the Albe, the Ecker, the Rure, which Mows into it at Ruremonde, the Wahal, the Ling, the Leek, the Jjfcl, and the Rotte. CHAP. II. Of the City of Delft. Its Churches, Sepulchres. The fplendid Monuments of the Princes of Orange. Tomb of Tromp. Other Singularities. Hijlory and Defer iption of this City. WH A T is mod remarkable at Delft is the Tomb of the famous Prince of Delft. Orange, Founder of the Dutch Republic. And here I mutt tell you, Tomb of that Mr. Mijj'on certainly did not know that all the Princes of Orange, who have p^f** '/" governed it, are buried at Delft, except William III. King of England. For o>-an*e r in his firft Volume he juft mentions to his Friend the Monument of Wil- very mag- liam I. without giving any Defcription of it, tho' it be the mod curious one mficent - in the whole United Provinces. I will give you a fhort Account of it, tho' you have formerly feen it, if it were only to call it back to your Memory. The Brafs-Statue of the Prince is placed under a Sort of Dome at the En- try of the Sepulchre: The whole of it is clad in Armour, except the Head : It holds the Battoon of fupreme Command in one Hand : And the Helmet is laid upon one of the Steps, which are all of Touch-Stone. Be- hind this Statue there is another of white Marble, in a long Gown, and laid out at full Length, to reprefent the Habit in which he was afiaffinated. Some have fancied that the Brafs-Statue is done for Prince Maurice'?, Son, and that it was not placed there till alter his Death: But the Epitaph only mentions 8 TRAVELS 1705. mentions the Father. As beautiful as thefe two Statues and all the other?, Janu ary. ^ w j t [ 1 w ],j cn tri j s magnificent Tomb is adorned, muft be conftflcd to be, j)7j F ~J. yet the Figure representing Fame is incontrovcrtibly tar fupenor to all the reft, which is alfo of Brafs. She holds a Trumpet in her Mouth to lbund aloud the glorious Atchievements of the interred Hero. Let me juft add, that this Statue fupports itfclf wholly uprin the Toes of the left Foot. At the four Corners of this Monument tli re are four other Statues of Br;.,s, all as big as the Life, reprelcnting fome of this Prince's Virtues, i. e. his Prudence, Juflice, Piety, and above all his Love of his Country. On the Top of each of the four Corners there is a Pyramid : The Arms of the Princes of Orange are on every Part of it •, but in the Middle there Its beami- ' s an Inscription in Golden Letters, which Mr. Mandejlo has fadly fpoiled ful Infcrip- and mangled by his wrong Pointing, and by leaving out fcvcral Words. tion. Flere it is exactly copied from the Original. D. O. M. Et Mterna Memorise GUILLIFLMI NASSOVII. Supremi Araufonienfium Principis. Pair. Patriae. §>ui B'lgii Fortunis fitas pojihabuit Et fuorum. ValidiJJimos Exeratus 7"5- of the Spaniards. The whole Hiltory is well known to you : Bur, perhaps 7 a > you may not have met wich one little Incident that happened when Farias, ^ Jl by Order of Phillip II. his Mafter, carried off the eldett Sonofth.it Prince, who was a Student at the Univerfity of Louvain : The Rector of this Univcr- fity complained, in a fine Latin Harrangue he made to Vargas, that he had highly violated the Privileges of the Univerfity : Bat the Spaniard, not hav- ing much Clergy, aniwered the Re&or in barbarous Latin: Non curamus Prhilegios vejlros. They lhew'd us likewife, in this old Church, the Tomb of the renowned .^'''f Peeer Heyn, the firft Dutch Admiral, who from the Spaniard took a ; °" ' s ° whole Fleet loaded with Gold and Silver, returning from America. Hi- a bi e I'er- ftory informs us, that in this Fleet there was found a huge Heap of Ingots Tons in this of Gold, 156,496 Pounds of Silver, a great Quantity of Plate, and a vail a | 1CK ' n ' Number of Chells, filled with Pieces of F.ighr, not to reckon nil various of U Admi Sorts of the moll valuable Indian Goods. This rich SeizAire contributed r.ot r .il Peter a little to put the Republic in a Condition to fupport with Vigour the War^o*'* againft Spain, and ihe at lad obliged that arrogant Monarch to agree to a long Truce with her. There is alfo the funeral Monument of the famous Martin Harpit Tromp, Of Admi- Father to the laft Admiral of that Name. The Father entirely defeated and r *' ™*> mined a powerful Spanifh Fleet, commanded by Don Antonio d'Oqnendo, in your Road of the Downs, the 22d of Oclober 1639. The Son often beat the Englijh and other Enemies of his Country. Thefe two Sepulchres are orna- mented with marble Pillars and Trophies of Arms; and the Statues of the Admirals lie extended at full Length in compleat Armour, Head-pieces on- ly excepted. The Infcription on the fecond is well worth mentioning. ^TERNjE MEMORISE ltsinf C ri rr Alartini Harperti Trompii. tl0n * Qui Batavos, qui virtutem, cif verttm Laborem amas, Lege ac Luge. Batava: gentis decus, virtutis bellies fulmen hie j ace t, qui vivus nunquam jacuit ; & Imperatorem Jlantem mori debere exemplo Juo docuit. Amor Civium, Hefti- urn terror, Oceani Jlupor, Martinus Harpertus Trompius, quo nomine plures continentur laudes quam hie lapis capit fane angujlior : cui Schola Oriens & Oc- cidens, Mare materia Triumphorum, Univerfus Orbis Thcatrum Gloria fait. Prttdonum cert a per nicies, commercii fcelix ajjertor, familiaritate ut His, non vilis. Pojlquam nautas & milites (durum genus) paterno & cum efficacia benigno recit Imperio ; pofi quinquaginta fr?cs MARGARETA Hermaui Comitis Henehergm Uxor, id Fhrektii Ca,:i- 'anuary. tis Holland'ne id Zelandis filia : cujus mater f tat Matbildis filia Hem id Dues Brabanti t:l ken by the Republic from her Enemies by Sea and Land; and ^Holland, amongft others thofe which the Prince of Orange Maurice, took from the Arch- duke Albert, at the famous Battle of jVrV#/wV,which iaved the State : That this Palace was built in 1250 by William II. Count ot Holland, and King of the Romans (who removed his Court from Grave fand to the Plague) for him and his SuccelTors : That all the "Wainfcotting of this Floufe is proof againft Worms, Spider:, all Sorts of Vermin, and Putrifa&ion. ■• i That through Holland. 15 That it was at the Hague that the States-General declared, by a Decree of 1705. 26 July (581, Philip II. King of Spain, to have loft all the Rights of Save- 7 «"«*>?• reignty he might have had, or pretended to have over the Seven United Pro- hT^ub vinces, and ordered his Seal and Arms to be broke to Pieces publickly : That Several the Hague is the largeft and moil beautiful Village in Europe, fince there are ; ' ; " ;ic l»n between four and five thoufand Houfes in it : That the sreateft Pare of its conc ' crn " Canals, Squares, and publick Places are planted with fine Trees, and adorn* / ed with magnificent Palaces and Buildings •, the Voorhout,, as they call it, in Particular, which is the Place where the Pcrfons of Quality take the Air in their Coaches : It was beautified with the fine Trees that Hill adorn it, in 1536, by the Monks of the Convent, which Marguerite, Wife to Adcrt of Bavaria erected in that Place, and the ancient Church there llill bears the Name of Cicojlcr-kerk, i. e. Church of the Convent. Here likewife is the great Church that was anciently dedicated to Sr. TV great James, built in 1399, by the fame Albert of Bavaria, in the Quire of which Church. there are 32 Blafons or Coats of Arms, of fo many Kniglus ot ihe Golden- Fleece, with this Infcription in Capital Letters, PRAvMIUM NON VILE LABORUM, and the honorary Monument of the famous Admiral Obdam, Honorary vho after a bloody Engagement with the Englijh Fleet, commanded by the ,,v,0lU - Dukeof York, Brother to Charles II. and having fadly fluttered the Ship this "„' c , n: of , Prince was in, finding himfelfenclofed amid ft feveral large Men of War of the obdam. Enemy, had theReloIution to fet Fire to his Powder- Room, and blow lumfelf up rather than furrendcr : This Aclion is reprefented there on a Bas-relief, his Statue ftands upon the Monument crowned by Fame, with this Epitaph. Honori & Glorir. Herois llluftrifj. &? ex vetufiiffima Nobilitatis Batavica Jlirpe percontinuam &?ij-. p j legit imam SucceJJionem prognati, D. Jacobi Dynafta de Wofjenaer, Domini in t«ph. Obdam, Feeder ati Belgii Architalafft, &c. Rebus pr&idri terra marique gefirs, nan tan! inn in Allantico Oceano, wnle fparfa fuga'aque Lufitanorum C . \ magnaque onujlus pradd domum rediit : Sedet in freto Baltics, ubi pulfis a 1- ■ fariis fc? infigni par! a Vicloria, labor anti Danur f'n\urr;t, & fmul Ma~ jejlatem refpi afcruit & ftabilivit. Ac tandem contra wiv erfam Rrgiam An- glomm Clajfan, cum panels fortfflme dimicans, £s? nnd'.c;: • nEius, nejic qui cejfit hoftibus, fed magna priits edita Jlrcge, incenfaque demum Pratcfia navi, Hercules exe?nplo, fammis vicm fi>i ad fupercs para lam invent t. Anno atatis LV. Illujlrijf. ci? potentiJJ. feeder ati Belgii proceres vi'ro fort iff. optimeque de . merito Monumentum hoe pofuere, Anno reparatie falulis, 1067. The Fabrick of this Church is of a very particular Kind, being 1 ther fupported by Columns, Pillars, nor Pilafters. But what is (till more unpardonable in Mr. Miffon, is his faying fimply, as he does Page 14 of the fame Tome, that we may go in half an Hour from ana tr " y the Hague to Scheveling, by a Jlraight Avenue cut acrofs Downs. Firft cf all, Avenue 'tis at leaft three Miles, that is, a full League from the Hague to Scheveling. rom the And H " tlic Sen 16 TRAVELS 1705. And in the fecond Place, all the Curious and Intelligent who have feen this January. Avenue, agree, that it is a Work in fome refpecls as admirable as the fa- Hacl-e nl0us Con hilar High-ways of the ancient Romans. Yet the dry jejune Man- I ; . rrors and ner in which Mr. Mijjon fpeaks of it, is not likely to give a very high Idea Omiflions c f its Magnificence to fuch as have never feen it; whereas, had he attempted ']'. ^.' r ' to have done it Jufiice, he would have faid, that with almoft inconceivable Labour, and with Patience that demanded all the Phlegm of the Dutch, they have cut a Way acrofs Downs and many Mountains of Sand, extending from the Bridge of Nortb-Eynde, i. e. from the moil Northern Part of the Hague, to the Sea-CoaO, which is four large Miles in length, and above 24 good Feet in breadth, fo that three Coaches may very conveniently go a- breall in it without incommoding Foot-Pafiengers. And he ought to have added, that this wonderful Way is quite ftraight, and paved with fmall yel- lowifh Bricks extreamly hard, and joined Side-wife very dole together ; that it is bordered on each Side with four Rows of lofty Trees planted in a Line, and an infinity of Gardens made in the Sand with vail: La- bour and Expence ; and that the Village, Church and Clock of Scbeveling, with the vait Ocean, terminate this admirable Vifto. It was the Chevalier Qonftantin Huygens Lord of -Zuyticbem, Secretary to the three laft Princes of Orange, Frederic-Henry, William II. and William III. an excellent Poet, and Father to the celebrated Mathematician who made fo many noble Dilcove- veries in Geometry and Aftronomy, that projected and contrived this de- lightful Avtnue. And after he had finiflied it, he compofed a very fine Poem upon the Subject, confiding of above 1200 Verfes, and put the fol- lowing Infcription above the Entry into it: ftifcripticn V \N, on the Per colles invios & immane Sabuletum F J on J, of Magno Procerum animo, Impensa Nobili, of this fine ^l Induftrid vere Batavd, Avei,u.-. T)epreJ]' ° ; >■ i the famous Jean de Wit, one of the greateft Men, perhaps the greatell Ge- f,* ate< j i„" nius the United Provinces ever produced, was murdered by the Populace, to- 167Z, by gether with his Brother Corneille de Wit, in the Year 1672, jull four Years the Pcpu- after the latter, with Admiral de Rityter, had taken the Fort of Sheemefs, lace of the ant j i-, urnt t | ie Euglifh Ships of War that were at Anchor in the Midway. The furious Mob not contented with pulling thefe great Men out of the Pri- fon, where they were confined, in the moft barbarous and outragious Manner, maffacred them in the cruelelt Way : dragging their mangled Bodies thro' the Streets to the Gallows, they hanged them up upon it by the Feet, ripped open their Bellies, tore out their Bowels, cut off their Privy-parts, their Ears, their Fingers, their Toes, which were fold to the Curious, who preferve. thefe Fragments in Spirits of Wine to this Day. In one Word, every Bar- barity was exerted upon thefe unfortunate Perfons, and all this for their hav- ing fhewn too much Zeal for the Liberty of their Country. It is believed, A Miftake not without Reafon, that the Intrigues of the Prince of Orange'?, Faction con- /JTt" tributed a great deal to bring about this horrible Tragedy. Bat what flulj teller, and we ^ l Y °f Sir Edward Veryard, an EngMJh Phyfician, who publifhed about of the D. four Years ago an Account of the Netherlands, France, &c. which I run de Rohan, over the other Day ? This Traveller, (peaking of Dprt or Dordrecht, affures us, it was there the Populace cut the de Wit's into Pieces. He fays, the Countefs of How.cberg was Wife to Florent IV. Count of Holland, to whom fhe was really Daughter, and he takes a Statue in the Entry of the Town- houfe of Amfterdam, representing that City, for one of the Virgin Mary. What Strcis can one lay upon Inch Relations? It is yet more furprifing to find the famous Duke de Rohan (who was afterwards the Head of the Pro- tectants in France, and made fo great a Noife during the Civil Wars in the Reign of Lewis XIII.) faying in his Travels thro' Qfrmany, Italy, the Nether- lands, and Great Britain, That the Hague having formerly been pillaged by [artin van Roffem, one of the Captains under the Duke de Gueldres, its new Inhabitants fear nig that the Dcfire of 'Spoil might draw upon them another fuch Attack, determined to fortify themfehes, choofmg, for the Sake of Security, that the Hague faould lofe the Reputation of the moft beautiful Village in Chriftendom, and only be called one of the fmeft Towns in Holland. If I had not the Book before me I could not have believed that fuch an Error could have flipt from fo great a Man. It is not however the only Millake in this Author's Travels. In Fact, the Hague is properly fpeaking no more but a Village, tho' it be certainly the moft delightful and magnificent one in the World, lor 'tis quite open. You know it is lor this Reafon that 'tis not ranked among the Ci- ties, 1 through Holland. 19 ties, tho' it deferves the Name as' juftly as the fineft one in its Neighbour- 1705. hood. It enjoys the fame Privileges, with Relation to Magiftracy, and other 7« nuar y- political Employments, with this Difference only, that it fends no Deputies l IT _ E ^ to the States of the Province, tho' it be the Seat of that Affembly, as well as its charm- of the Affembly of the States-Genera?. You have not furely forgot that the i"g Situa- Air here is very pure and healthful, that it lies a full League from the Sea be- tlon- tween Delft and Leyden, and that there is fomething very peculiar in its Si- tuation above all the other Towns in Holland, having arable Lands on the Eajl, Downs, on the Welt,Mcadows of immenfe Extent to the South, and on the North towards Leyden a charming Wood. The Sieur Gideon Pontier, Au- Sieur/V.. thor of the Cabinet des Grands, affirms, that this Wood is full of Deer, but " erctm - it is not fo. The Prince of Orange has a very fine Houfe, and many private C1ZI Perfons have Gardens and Pleafure-houfes in it •, fo that the Walks are fo fre- quented, fo crowded, that there needs no more to have feared and frighted away all the Deer, if ever there were any. Over and above all thefe Advantages, the Minifters from Foreign Courts refide here, and, together with them, a vaft Number of Perfons of Quality employed in Civil or Military Offices ; and the Company here is much more fociable than in mod other Towns of Holland, witnefs the Affemblies of Perfons of Diftinction of both Sexes that are held here every Evening, fome- times in one Houfe, and fometimes in another, and even in feveral Houfcs at the fame Time. There is likewife a very good Academy, with a well pro- vided Riding-houfe, and excellent Mafters for all the Exercifes. Coaches are here in Plenty, there being a very great Number of rich Families, which oc- cafions a good deal of Confumption and Traffick : And Strangers, who arc difpofed to make any Stay in this agreeable Place, may hire Coaches and Lacquies at very reafonable Rates. CHAP. IV. Dort, its National Synod, its Situation, Edifices, Commerce. Leyden, the Univerfitj there. The Tomb of Jofeph Scaliger. Its memorable Siege. Its Illujlrious Men. DORT, or DORDRECHT, is counted the Capital of the Province of Dort. Holland. The Counts were anciently inflallcd here in Prefence of thofe 2 J ?, lta ', of who had a Right to afiift at this Ceremony. And it is by Virtue hereof, that its Deputies ttill hold the firft Vote in the Affembly of the States, give their Opinions, and declare their Sentiments, immediately after the ancient Nobility, called in their Language De Ridderfchap. This has given occalion to addrefs thefe two Latin Verfes to it. Cum legit Holland;;- communia vota Senalus, A te, pojt Equites, Suffragia prima petuntur. D 2 It zo TRAVELS 170;. It is famous among the Proteftants for the National Synod afTembled and 7 anU! *2, held there, in 1618. and 1619, under the Authority of their High-Mighti- Dor V -T neffes. For Sir Edward Veryard, whom I have quoted above, and who tells Its famous us that the Tragedy of the AfTafilnation of the De-Wits happened at Dort, Synod, fays, this Synod was held in 161 1. Avery confiderable Number of Profef- AnEngHJh fors of Divinity and Miniffers alTifted at it, not only from the United-Pro- Travellcr vinces, but likewife from Switzerland, Germany and Great-Britain. The Re- corrected. p UD ii c f Geneva fent to it its two mod learned Profeflbrs, Jean Diodati and Theodore Troncbin, the Firft of whom was chofen, with five others, to draw Unjuft up its Canon?. If the Arminians were condemned by this Synod, without toeofthis tne ^ ma " c ^ Regard to their Remonftrances, there is nothing furprifing in it. Afl'emhlv The Gomarijls fupported by the Prince Maurice and his Faction, againft the agaiiift the famous Bar/ieveld, Hugo Grotius, and other Partifans of the Liberty of their Avminiam Country, which this Prince endeavoured todeftroy, found themfeves to be ten againft one. Accordingly the Remonftrants have compared this Synod to the Council called the Rabble of Ephefus. Poor Barneveld loft his Head on a Scaffold : Grotius, with the principal Men of that Party were imprifoned in the Cattle of Lovejlein ; and the Arminian Doctors were turned out of their Charges, and exiled with a Rigour unworthy of Chriftianity. Situation Dordrecht is a very ancient City, being thought to have been built more of Don. than 1200 Years ago. Mean time we know nothing for certain about its Origin. It is fituated upon three Rivers mingled together, the Rhine or one of its Branches named the IVahal, the Lingen which falls into that Branch at Gorcum, and the Mcufe, precifely on the little Gulph which the Romans called Fojfa Mcrovea. It joined to the Land before the terrible Inundation that hap- pened in the Year 142 1. now it, with a Part of its Territory makes an Ifiand. It is a Town of confiderable Bignefs, but longer than broad, and divided Public by feveral Canals running through it. The molt remarkable public Buildings Edifices here, are, its great Church, a very bold Building, with a vaft fquare Belfry exceeding maffy and folid, upon the Top of which are four large Dials, one to each Front, to which we mount by 312 Steps j the Town-houfe ; one for coining Money, with an Infcription on the Front, which tells us that Charles V. granted feveral Privileges to this City, and amongft others that of minting Money. There is an Exchange where the Merchants meet, an Arfenal, publick Schools and many Charitable Foundations, i. e. an Hofpital, an Orphan-houfe, a Houfe for the Maintenance of poor aged Men, another for old deftitute Women ; and a Place called Le Doel, where they ufed formerly to exercife themfelves in mooting at a Mark, in which is the large Hall where the Synod was held. The French and Englijh have each a Church here, where divjne Service is performed in their Languages. Its Plenty of Fifh- market is one of the beft furnifhed with all Sorts of Fifh, with Sturgeon I-'ifh. and frefh Salmon in particular. The latter formerly fwarmed in the Neigh- bourhood of this City •, and made a chief Part of its Revenue. They were in fuch Plenty, that by common Tradition, the menial Servants made it in their Bargain when they hired themfelves, that they lhould not be obliged to eat Salmon above twice or thrice a Week. Now they are free from that Pain, through Holland. 21 Pain, For the Salmon have left Dort, and are gone towards Gertruydenberg: 170J. There is ftill however confiderable plenty of them not far from Dort. January. Trade hath greatly enriched this Place, that of the Engliftj Wool in particular, j-J^Tt and of the French Wines of which it is the Staple, and which it distributes Its Corn- through all the Provinces under the Dominion of the States ; a Privilege merce. granted to this City, preferable to all the other Towns of the Province, by Count Florent V. The Beer of Dort is greatly efteemed, and being very pleafant to the Tafte, is fent through all the Seven United Provinces -, nay, to the Eaft-Indies. Its Outlets are the moft charming one fees anywhere: They are nothing lefs than fpaciojs Avenues of Trees planted regularly, on each Side of which Outlets, are delightful Gardens. This Town is ftrong by its natural Situation, tho* it be only furrounded with a fingle Wall flanked with fome old ruinous Baf- Strength. tions, and a deep Ditch full of Water. Accordingly it was never taken by Force, and tho' it has its Gates, with feveral Openings on the Side of the River to let Ships and Boats in and out, the Spaniards were never able to make themfelves Mafters of it during their Wars with Holland. I had almoft forgot to tell you, that Thierry, or Theodoric IV. Count of Holland and Zea- land was killed here by a German, in the Year 1048, and that the Street where this Maffacre was committed takes its Name from hence to this Day, being called Grave-Straat, i. e. the Count's Street. I have remarked to you in the Articles of Rotterdam, Delft and the Hague, Leyden. feveral Blunders of Travellers in their Defcriptions of theie Places ; I now proceed to give you an Account of Leyden, in Latin Lugdunum Batavorum. And here I (hall add to what Mr. Miffon has laid of it, that this large and beautiful City is the Capital of a Country they call Rhynland, which contains near 50 Towns and Villages, many of which are more confiderable than fome little Towns : That this is the moft fertile Country in Holland, according to Boxhornius, who fpeaking of it ufes thefe Words. Ager circumjeclus totius Hollandia uberrimus eft, qui Rbinolandia nomine vocitari confuevit. And that next to Amfterdam it is the greateft in the United Provinces. Our Traveller after telling us, p. 18. that what renders Leyden moft fa- I.-s Uni- mous at prefent is its Univerfity, flops fhort here, and fays not one Word verfuy more of this renowned Univerfity founded in the Year 1575. by William I. ° u J™ Prince of Orange, after the Siege which the Spaniards had laid to this City p„ nC e of' was raifed. Pie ought at leaft to have mentioned fome of the many learned 0,-ange, in Men who have profeffed the Sciences here, and contributed greatly to its K7J> Fame. Such as Jofeph Scaliger, Salmajius, Baudius, Arminius, Coccius, Eptfco- ° { ' e pins, Blondel, Junius Father and Son, Spanheim, Sylvius, Delboe, Le Moine, Europe Drelincourt and many others. Its Library, tho' inferior to many others in Europe, is however very confiderable, having been augmented at different Times by the private Libraries of feveral learned Profeffors, and amongft Others, by that of the celebrated Jofeph Scaliger. Blunder of This Name puts me in mind of a Blunder of Miffon, with Relation to the Mr. Miffon Scaligers. He fays in a Marginal Note, that Julius Scaliger lies interred in the ? on " rn " 1 Walloott'sfjff one molt mous in ** TRAVELS i7°v Walloon Church of Leyden. Julius Scaliger never faw Holland : This learned January. jyj ull c ]j ec j anc j j s b ur j ec i at Agen in Guienne, where his Tomb is yet fhewn to Strangers. It is his Son Jofeph who was enterrcd in the Walloon or French Church at Leyden, with this Epitaph that deferves to be tranferibed, becaufe he has carried the Prize of Glory from Hundreds who were infinitely fuperior to him in Erudition. The tomb DEO ofjo/epb OPT. MAX. SACRUM Et '- This generous Magiftrate ( remembering with what Barbarity the People of lTydT^ Harlem had been treated by the Spaniards two Years before, notwithdanding their Capitulation) offered his whole Body to thofe Mutiniers to be divided among them, to allay their Hunger. " Atqiie hoc tarn mafculo refponfoadeo om~ nes perculfi flint, fays the learned Boxhornius, ut pedem inie ftatim referrent." This Aclion equals, in my Opinion, that of the Decii, of Marcus Curtius, and other Romans, who voluntarily devoted themfclves for the Safety of their Fel- low-Citizens, fince we may fay ot this Magiftrate of Ley den, what Valerius Maximus laid of one of the Archons of Athens : Et hie quidem pro Republica r.on eft extineJus ; fed admirabili virtute ne Refpublica extihgueretur, providit. cupicbat enim Patriae, auam vit breadth, and that there happened a ftrong foutherly Wind, which dried up almoft all the Waters they had let out from their Sluices, which Incidents would infallibly have put the Befieged into the Hands of their Enemy, had the latter but waited one Day longer before they retired from before the Town. This unexpected and almoft miraculous Retreat of the Enemy, made the People of JLeyazn drike a Medal, reprefenting it with this Legend Sicttt Sennacherib a Jerufakm. Sic Hiffani a Leyda Nofttt Fugali. There happened yet another very lingular Thing during this famous Siege. A tai la- It was this : The horrible Cruelty of the Spaniards at the Siege of Ilarkm, ™* ', ■"* Kaerdcn, Zutphen, and other Towns, had enraged the Dutch with fiich impla- Dutcb Sal- eable Fury and Hatred againtt this Nation , that a Sailor in the Fleet which lor. came to the Succour of this City having killed a Spanijh Soldier, ripped un his Bread, pulled out his Heart, bit off" a Piece of it warm and bloody as it was, fwallowed it, and threw the red to a large Dog that attended him. 'Twason Occafion of this inhuman Act, that John Vander-Does Lord of Nordwick, fo well known in the learned World, by the Name of Janus Doufa, and who was one of the Governors of this City during the Siege, made this E; i- gram. Lugdunum *4 1705. January. Lt v DEN. TRAVELS Lugdunum citigit Batavorum miles Iberus A Batavo contra cingitur ille Mari. Non opus eft Gladiis, ferroque rigentibus armis, Sola? pro Batavo belligerantur Aqua?. J ail ur am Pec or is Batavus quam fecit id Agri, Humano decies /anguine, Ibere, luis. Macra caro eft, nuper cum Cor guftajfet Iberi, Refpuit, id canibus Nauta vorare dedit. Tolle met us, Hi/pane fuge, id ne re/pice terras. Pro quibus Oceania pugnat id ipfe Deus. Many Par- ticularities relating to Leyden. The Country about Leyden, and its Manufa- ctory. The chief Church of Leydett, anciently dedicated to the Apoftle St. Peter, is the largeft in the Province, after that oi Harlem. This City has eight Gates. Its Walls are of Brick, its Ditches large and deep, and full of Water to the Level of the Banks, without any other Fortifications. It was enlarged for the laft Time in 1658, by William II. of that Name, and fifteenth Count of Hol- land, who was elecled Emperor in 1246. in the Room of Frederic 11. who was born at Leyden, in 1222. His Son Florent V. of that Name, who was affaffinated when he was a hunting, in 1296. by a Gentleman called Seigneur de Velfen, to revenge himfclf upon that Count, for having forced his Wife in his own Caftle, while he had lent him out to negotiate lbme Affair, was alfo born here. This City likewife gave Birth to the famous John Buckold, who of a fimple Taylor, found Means to make himfelf King of the Anabaptifts, after having furprized the City of Munfter in TVeftphalia ; and to the cele- brated Painter Lucas Van Leyden, of whofe Hand there is a Capital Picture carefully kept in the Town-houfe, reprefenting the laft Judgment, to pur- chafe which, 'tis faid, the Emperor Rodolpb II. would have covered it over with Ducats of Gold to the Magiftrates of Leyden. The Fields about Leyden and all its Out-lets are charming : not to mention the magnificent Mall juft at its Gates, it is furrounded on all Sides with an Infinity of beautiful Gardens, Pleafure-houfes, and Meadows which abundantly yield the beft Milk, Cheefe and Butter in the World. This City is alfo famous for its Cloth Manufactory, its Camelots, Fuitians, and Silk-Stuffs, and yet more for the beautiful Printing of its Elzivirs, to whom we owe fuch charming Editions of all the Claftic Authors, and of many other good Books. CHAP, through Holland. 25 CHAP. V. 170,-. January, H/ Harlem. TZv Siege it fuflained again/1 the Spanifh Army, and the Barbarity of the Spaniards to its Inhabitants. The Origin of this Town. Many Particularities relating to it, and among others, the Invention of the Art of Printing, by Laurent Cotter. LET Us fupply fome OmifTions of our modern Traveller [ Miffon~\ with regard to Harlem, and give fome Account of the no Ids memorable Siege, than that of Leyden, which this City held out again ft the Spaniards, ^ : <;ge of in 1573. Frederic, or to give him his own proper Name, Cafiillan, Dom t " ls 'C' , >' FrcJriqitez de Toledo, Son to the cruel and inhuman Duke of Alba, who was f amous then indifpoled at Bruffels, having received Orders from his Father to re- than that dure the Cities of Holland that had rebelled on Account of his unheard-of 01 ^' Cruelty, inverted Harlem in the Beginning of December 1572. Embald Ri- perda, a Gentleman of one of the moft Illuftrious Families in Friejland com- manded there, afilfted by Batard de Brederode, and feveral other Perfons of Diftinction. The Monftrous Outrages Frederic and his Army had commit- ted at the taking of Naerden, Zutpben and other Places, had made the Citi- zens of Harlem rcfolve to defend themfelves to the laft Extremity. It is im- poflible to exprefs the Miferies to which this brave People were reduced by Famine. To fuch an Extremity were they pinched, that a young Girl of three Years of Age, who had died a few Days before, was dug out of her Grave by her Father and Mother to uphold their milerable Life. This Siege was very defperate, bloody, and long ; it lafted from the Beginning of De- cember 1572, to the End of July 1573. The Spaniards loft in it between ten and twelve Thoufand Men, with many Officers of Diftinction ; among others, the Sieur Crejfonicr Grand-mafter of the Artillery, and Barthlemi Campi of Pifaro in Italy, one of their ableft Engineers. The learned Boxhomius, in his Theatre of the Towns of Holland, relates, -phe f-e- that a Widow- Woman about 46 Years of Age fo fpirited up the Women ofmarkable, Harlem to defend their Liberty, that they excelled the Men in Courage, Courage and repulfed the Enemy with great Bravery, in the feveral Aflaults they f" made upon the Town. Illuxit in hac obfidione virtus fivminarum, Of pracipue //,,, ... Kenmv.e virilis animi vidu.e, amws nat.e quadraginta fex, qu.t catcrarum Dux, named robore Of conjlantia animi in propulfandis Hojlibus, non fexum fuum moda, fed vi- Kenna'va. ros vicit. Frederick tired by iuch a long and vigorous Refiftance, and al- mort delpairing of Succefs, lent to afk leave of his Father to raile the Siege. But the Duke of Alba, blaming his Impatience, lent him word that he would come himfclf, fick as he was, to continue it, or that if the Excels of his III- nefs fhould not allow him to do it, he would fend for his Mother from Spain to fupply his Place ; a Reproach which determined Dom Frcdrijuez to go on with it. E Many 26 TRAVELS 1705. Many very remarkable Incidents happened during this Siege. The Prince January. Q r Q rmi „ e nav ing fent a Succour of two thoufand Men under the Command h71u"7m °^ Ph'!iff e de Kening, a brave Officer, in order to fteal fome of them into the Stveral Town : The Spanijh General, having Intelligence of the Defign, prepared rtrradi- an Ambufcade for them, which defeated it, and proved fatal to a great Num- ber of the intended Reinforcement. Among thofe taken Prifoners were Kcning d ur i ne and Attaint the Painter, who the Year before had by the Information he that Siege, gave to Count Ludovic of Nafj'au, Brother to the Prince of Orange, greatly facilitated his taking Mens, the Capital of the Hainault by furprife. Frederic, as cruel as his Father, ordered, with Inhumanity unparallelled, thole two Pri- foners to be beheaded, and their Heads to be call into the City, with this Infcription, Here are the Heads of Philip de Kening, who came to affifl Har- lem with his two thoufand Met?, and of Antoine the Painter, who delivered the City o/Mons into the Hands of the Rebels. The Citizens of Harlem exafperated by feeing the moft facred Laws of Nations fo abominably and outrageoufly violated in the Perfons of thofe two Prifoners of War, put to Death eleven Spaniards, and packed their Heads into a Barrel, which in the Night they rolled into the Enemy's Trenches, with this Writing upon it. The Inhabi- tants of Harlem fend the Duke of Alba ten Heads in lieu of the Tenth-penny that he demands from them, and give him the Eleventh for Inlerejl. The Spa- niards and they went on infulting and committing terrible Outrages one upon another in this Manner mutually for along Time ; the one hoping to be Mailers of the City in a very few Days, and the other daily flattering them- felves with receiving Succours : The Befiegers held up to the View of thofe within the City, Figures rcprefenting the Prince of Orange, the Magillrates, Miniflers, and chief Perfonages ot this City, which they pierced thro' in their Sight with a thoufand Wounds. The Befieged, on the other Side, re- paid them in the fame infulting Coin : They fluffed Figures of Priefb, Friars, Cardinals, and Popes with Straw, and fetting them on their Walls, put Fire to them : All which only ferved to exafperate one another more and more. rheCiiy In fine, after a Siege of eight Months, the City being reduced to the lad jrrenders Extremity by a Dearth, which had fwept away above 15000, and the lad the & <"' R ccru ' t which the Prince of Orange fent to them, under the Conduct, of uards. Count La March and Baron de Baiemberg, being deftroyed ; the befieged, feeing no Hopes of Relief, were forced by the Cries and Tears of their Wives and Children, who had efcaped the Famine, to capitulate ; for as to the Men, they had refolutely determined to fally forth in a Body, and to die glori- oufly, or cut a PalTage for themfelves Sword in Hand through the Enemy. The bar- ^ ^ e perfidious Frederic, far from keeping his Faith, committed the moil barous horrible Cruelties againfl the Rights of Nations and the Laws of War. TheGar- Mam.erin rifon was put to the Sword. Riper da and Lancelot Batard de .Brakrafc were behead - which the ec j ^ t he common Hangman. And tr is Monfter, worthy Son of an equally vil- der'r"are k' nous Father, caufed to be hanged and drowned for feveral Days above 3000 treated. Perfons, and amongfl them all the Magifbates, Miniflers, and chief Inhabitants. So inhuman a Proceeding hurt the Spanifh Interefl exceedingly, inflead of ferving through Holland. -7 o ferving it. The People became refolute, and determined to fuffer every '7°5- Thing rather than to fubmit themfelves to fuch a cruel and tyrannical Domi- {^^J nation, their natural Hatred of the Spanijh Nation being thus inflamed to sHari-ei higher Pitch than ever. The Dutch agreed unanimoufly to ufe the bloody Word Harlem- Harlem, to animate and excite one another on every Occaiion, to give no Quarter to thofe who had treated their Compatriots fo barbaroufly. Accordingly the Town of Alkmar, to which the fame Frederic laid Siege fame time after taking Harlem, boldly repulled his mod vigorous Efforts, and at la ft obliged him to make a fhameful inglorious Retreat. Much about the fame Time the Prince of Orange, having furprized the City of Gertrudenlerg, his Soldiers upon crying out Harlem, with great Fury, cut every one of the Spa- niards to Pieces, notwithftanding all the Care of this humane Prince, to hin- der them from taking fuch cruel Repriials. This City is not very ancient; yet its Rile is very much difguifed by Fa-O'ig'" '" bles, in molt Hiftorians who have mentioned it. Boxbarnius thinks it was Ha ' len '' founded by the Normans who came into this Country from Ftance, under the Conduct of the Duke Roux or Raoul : Others make it older, and afcribe its Foundation to Lent Son of a King of Friejland, who lived about the 300th Year of Cbrifl. Petrus Scrivcrius refutes this Opinion, in his Encomium up- on this City, where he fays : Non quod ab antiquo repetas primordia Lemo. What appears moft inconteltablc, is, that it was founded by Lem or Wil- lem, Son to Tbibaud, Vifcount, or Bargrave of Leydcn ; that it was originally no more but a little Hamlet, with a Cattle where this Lem kept his chief Re- fidence-, whence 'tis called Heer-Lems Jlede, i. e. the Refidence of Lord Lem ; but that in Procefs of Time it was enlarged and beautified, and became the Capital of a Diftrict which is called Kennemerland. It is ftrange that fo judicious a Traveller as the Sieur Mandejlo fhould have Miftake affirmed in his Travels, that make a fecond Volume to thole of Olearius, that °J a Ma "' ILrrlem is the largeft City in Holland next to Amfterdam, lince every one'-''' knows that Leydcn is much greater. Harlem before the Reformation was the only Bilhoprickin the Province, founded by Pope Paul IV. in 1559 ; and its great Church formerly dedicated to St. Bavon, is indifputably the moft beau- tiful in Holland. The ancient Building called Hel-Princen-Hof, i. e. the Princes Court, took old Pa. that Name from hence ; that Florent, fimamed the Fat, Count of Holland, lace of t and his Confort Petronilla, Daughter to the Duke of Saxony, tranlpoit.d their Counts of Court to Harlem, and fettled it there. Jean, the eldelt Son of Florent V '. Uo ' !arJ - lick of the Buftleofthe World, refigned his States to his Nephew Jean II. retired to Harlem, and paffed the reft of his Life quietly in the lame Palace to his Death, which happened in 1300. In this Priucen-Hof there are Portraits ^ f ' ne of the ancient Counts of Holland, and a Picture of the taking of Dametta in ^-""c"" Egypt, by thefe Princes in the third Croifade againft the Saracens in 1190. People of Thofe of Harlem who accompanied Florent III. Count of Holland, in thi&Harlem at Expedition, obferving, that the Infidels had flnit up the Entry into their Porr, ll,r Siege ' • ■ o Damut- E 2 with u :S TRAVELS i-c 3 - with two will mafty Chains of Iron, fattened to two large Towers which de- jauuarj. fended it, contrived a Manner of fixing with Cramp-irons to the Keels of Yr~~;~~ J . their Ships twenty Saws of Steel, and upon the firft favourable Wind, crowd- ing all their Sails, rufhed full drive againft thefe Chains, and cut thro' them both •, and bv this Stratagem opened an Entry to the Chriftian Fleet into the Town. In Recompence of this noble Action the Emperor Frederic Barberofa added to the Anns of their City, which before were three Gates, with four Stars-Field-Argent, a Sword furmounted by the Crofs of Jerufaletn, with this Motto : 7 'icit vim I 'irtus. Mandeflo, whom I have already mentioned, affures us, in Page 641. of ' his Travels. That they got for their Reward the Bells of Damietta, which -icere remarkably well call, and that they brought them home with them to Harlem, where they are ft ill. Edward Brown, a Phyfician, and Member of the Royal Society at London, fays, That thefe Bells were of Silver. Bat with Submiffion to thofe Gentlemen-Travellers, if I am not miftaken, the Ufe of Bells was un- known to the Saracens. In this Hall there are feveral excellent Pictures by Heemjkerk, Col.'zius, and Cornelius van Harlem ; among others, a Prometheus by the fecond ; the Murder of the Innocents, and a Feaft or the Gods by the laft, which are efteemed the beft. Lake of Since Mr. Mlffon has thought fit to mention the lofty Wood near to Har- Uarlem. [ CjU .^ ne ought not to have forgot its Lake, which is about fix Leagues in Length, and fubjecl: to Storms and Tempelts like the Sea. FredericV . Kin" of Bohemia, who retired into Holland after he was driven out of his Domi- nions, being curious to fee the Fleet loaden with Silver, which the Admiral flcin had taken from Spain and brought to Amfierdam, had almoft been loft in this Lake. The Birk he was aboard of was run againft with fuch Vioknce by another that came upon it full Sail, that it was fplit and funk. With great Difficulty was this Prince faved, after he fa.v his eldefl: Sin, who attended him, perifh. While the Prince of Toledo befieged Harlem, there was a Naval Engagement upon this Lake, in which the Spaniards loft Part of their Fleet. It freezes in Winter lb hard, that the People go from End to End of it on Skates and Sledges, r; Inha- The People of Harlem were anciently nick-named Florifls, for this Realbn ; h j int '',, that in the Year 1634, 35, 36, and 37, they were pofTeffed with fuch a Rage, or to give it its proper Name, fuch an Itching after Flowers, as to give one, two, nay often three thoufand Crowns for a Tulip that pleafed their Fancies; a Difeafe that ruined feveral rich Families. The Duke of Rohan in his Tra- vels, fays, that between Harlan and the Hague, which makes feven Leagues, there is a Foreft, which he believes is the only one in Holland •, yet in the Pa- ragraph immediately following this he mentions, the Charming Wood of the Hague, and befides, that of Harlem is at its very Gates. Mifon&nd Our Traveller, among the Germans, who difpute with Cojler of Harlem the the Duke Invention of the Art of Printing, names firft of all Gitttembcrg of Strajbourg, ./.- Rohan ant ] t i ien the pretended Magician John Faujlus of Mayence,Peter Scheffer, Peter ihTln en- Gernfhtim, and others. If Mifjbn had carefully read Pancirollus, whom he cites tion of two Pages after, he could not have fallen into three fuch confidcrable Blunders Printing. as through Holland. 29 as he has here committed. He would have learned from the Appendix ad '7°j- Titulum XII. de Typographic invention ; and from Salmuth, who hath com- {^"Z^_, mented upon Pancirollus, in the firft Place, not to have confounded the pre- Ha r l e m tended Magician Faujius, of whom many ridiculous Tales are told, with an honourable Burgefs of Mayence, whole Name was John Fuji, the firft Inven- tor of Characters cut in Wood according to the Germans, who was never ac- cufed of Magic. At the End of Cicero's Offices and other Books printed by him, he always calls himlelf Johannes Fuji us civis Moguntimts : Salmuth calls him Johannes Fujiius and not Faujius : Secondly, he would have learned that Guttenwerg, whom he gives (copying the Duke of Rohan's Error) for the firft Inventor of Printing, was not of StraJl/ourg but of Mayence ; and that far from being the Inventor of this Art, he was no more than one of Fu/lus's Partners, and that a long time after Fujlus had invented the Art he learned from him : But chefs two falling by the Ears about Ibme Money matters, and Guttemberg being call: in the Suit then retired to Strajl/ourg, where he let up a Printing- houfe, after having by Force of Money allured thither many of thole who had worked under Fuji. In the third Place Peter Scheffer and Peter Gerhflxim, of whom he makes two different Perfons, were but one and the lame Perfon,who was firft Apprentice to Fujl,and then became his Son-in-Law, on Account of his having invented the Art of cafting Types, and not John Mcntcl, to whom Mr. Mffon attributes the Honour of that Invention ; He added to his Name of Peter Scheffer, that of Gerq/heim, a little Town in Ger- many the Place of his Nativity, as may be leen at the End of the Books which he printed afterwards for himlelf, where he always takes the Name of Petrus Sihtffcr of Gernfheim. Ahjjbn, Page 25 of his firft Volume, after having mentioned the firft Book c-Jtt,- was printed at Harlem by Ccftcr, intituled Speculum human.e Salvationis, which isthelnven- kept in the Town-houfe in a Silver Cheit ; He fays, that there is in the fame [° r > as the Town-houfe, a Statue of this Cojler : If it be true that he had feen it, as is p°fil ° probable, why did he not give his Friend the Infcription as he ought naturally pretend. to have done. I will transcribe it to you as it is. M. S. VI RO CONSULARI. Laurcntio Cojlero Harlemeti/i, alteri Cadmo, C5* Artis Typographic* circa annum Domini 14.30. Inventori prima, De Lit/errs ac toto Orbe optitne mcrenti, banc Q^ L. C. Q^ Statuam quia A'.ream non habuit, pro monumento pofuit Civis graliff. Adrian. Roman. Typogr. Anno 1630. All I have further to add is, that Harlem is the Second in Precedency of the Towns in the Province of Holland. C H A P, 3© TRAVELS '7°;- Janua i , CHAP. VI. Amfterdam, r'/j magnificent Town-houfe. The famous De Ruyter'i Monument, and the Tombs of Jeveral other Admirals. Charitv-hou/es. The Arfenal of the Admiralty, and Magazine of the Eaft-Ip.dia Com- pany. The Trade of this Company. Its Power ; a port Hi/lorv of it. A Dcfcription of Amfterdam. Its Fortif cations. Some Particulars relating to Utrecht. The r ^ the Article of Amfterdam, Mr. Mijjon has omitted to tell his Friend, lo.ui _£ tint this famous City derives its Name from Amftel, a fmall River which why'iK ru '- ls ' lUo ' c u "der the great Bridge at what is call'd the Utrecht Gate, and Gate (o M® iticlf in its Canals. He fhould have added that this City was enlarged at fmall. three different Time?, before it came to be what we now Ice it. In the very fhort Defcription he gives us of the Town-houfe of Amfterdum Page 10, he expreffes iome Surprife that they fhould not luvc given it a magnificent Entry, inftead of the low and narrow Gates which lead into this vaft Palace ; tho' the Reafon of this be very well known. After the ancient Town-houfe (built as is imagined in 1428, in the Time of Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, and Count of Holland) was burnt in 1652, none could ever difcover how ; the Magiltr.ites who ordered the Build- ing of the new Town-houfe, reflecting that the Bank of the Seven United Provinces, confiding of immenfe Sums, in which moft of the Mer- chants in Europe were concerned, muft be lodged there ; and well knowing, that the Populace of Amfterdam is compofed of the Dregs of all Na- tions, and naturally infolent, mutinous, and exceedingly given to plunder, judged it expedient to make the Gates of this Town-houfe low and narrow, that it might be more difficult to force them, and e.ifier to defend them. Short Def- ^ ' s ^'" more altonifhing that Mr. Mifton, who is lb copious upon a hun- cription of dred other Things that do not lb well del'erve it, mould pal's over in Silence, that Build- the Beauties of this vaft Palace. In fact this Town-houre is fuitable to this ,n 2' grand and fplendid City. It is very regular without, being built of hewn Stone, and within it is proportionably beautified. In Architecture nothing equals this Houfe in the United Provinces. Within there is throughout it a Profufion of Marble, Alabafter, Jafper •, in the Galleries, Halls, Apartments Pavements, Incrustations, Bas-reliefs, Statues by Artus i^uellin, Pillars and Pilafters of the Corinthian Order •, Frizes, Chapiters, Cornifhes, and all the moft exquifite Ornaments. Every thing is of the moft finifhed Workman- fhip ; and all the Paintings are of excellent Matters. The Pavement of the Great Hall'is ineftimable, not only becaufe it is all of Marble, but chiefly on Account of the admirable Finifliing of three large Globes, Celeftial and Ter- teftrial, on which every thing is marked and adorned with the greateft Cor- re&nefs and Beauty ; the different Countries, being diftinguifhed by Stones of through Holland. 31 of different Colours, fo joined, as agreeably to reprefent their different Situations 1705. and Forms. The principal Cities, Sea-ports, Gulphs and Rivers, are per- 7 a ' ! " a >y- feebly well delineated. This large Sale is 120 Feet in Length, 56 and a ^^ v_ half in Breadth, and 98 in Height. And what is moil admirable, is, that i, am. this prodigious Mafs of Stones and Marbles is fupported by 13659 Piles, Mrs.Patin which with the Building coft above 12 Millions of Livres, and that in a very " nd M if° n fmall Space of Ground. Mr. Charles Patin makes this Expence amount to corre 30 Millions, which is exaggerating: On the other hand MiJJbn fays three Millions, which is ridiculous. As you have formerly feen all this Magnificence, I judge it would be fu- Eeau iful perfiuous to give you a particular Detail of ir. I will jutt put you ^ r '^ nal - in mind of the Latin Infcription above the Grand Tribunal of white Marble, ,j on ^" that immediately prefents itf'elf upon entering into this Palace. This Tribu- nal, from which Sentence of Death is pronounced againft Criminals, is of the ffneft white Marble of Carrara, the Steps as well as the Benches of the Judges. It is adorned with charming Bas-reliefs reprefenting the Judgment of Solomon •, the elder Brutus cutting off" the Heads of his own Sons,, and Zaleucus, King of the Locrians, who having made a Law condemning Adulterers to the Pu- r.ilhment of having their Eyes put out, to fupport the Authority of his own Law, caufed one to be plucked out of his own Head, and another out of his Sons, who had been furprifed in this Crime. The Latin Infcription I am to give you marks the iEra, when the firft Stone of this magnificent Build- ing was laid. IV. CAL. NOV. M.DC.XLVIII. Quo compcfitum eft Bel/um, quod fcedcrati inf. Germ. Populi cum tribus Philippis potcntift. Hifpaniarum Regibus, terra marique per omnes fere Orbis eras ultra, eciogin'a annos fortiter geftcrunt : After id Patriae liber tate & Religione, aufpi- ciis Coft. pacificalorum optimorum, Gerb. Patteras, Jac. de Graef, Sibr. Valke- uier, Petr. Scbaep, Confulum Filii & Agnati, jaclo primo fundamenti lapide, banc curiam fundarunt . It is under a fine Statue of the City of Amfterdam, which Sir Edward Veryard, as I have already remarked, took for a Statue of the Virgin Alary. Monf. Mifton, in a Marginal Note, lets us know, that de Ruiter's Tomb is The <*- worth feeing. And fince this Traveller condefcends to defcant to his Friend ™° r " S [ ^ upon the Play-things for Children in the Glafs-houfe, and fuch little Trifles •, R u ,- ter > a I think he might have faid fomething of a Monument he tells us is worth Tomb. noticing : It is in the new Church, at the Bottom of the Quire, incloful by a Rail of Brafs, which hath always been efteemed a moft curious Piece of Workmanfliip in its Kind. There is a Statue of Ruiter bedecked with all Sorts of Arms, and with the Admiral's Battoon in his Hand, laid out at full Length, with his Head leaning upon a Cannon. It is accom- panied with two Tritons that feem to rife out of the Sea, and to found each a Trump Marine. In Lonlano is reprefented a Sea-fight in Bas-relief, above which is Fame, proclaiming the Atchievemcnts of this Hero. On the Sides ■ 1 are T R A V E L S are two Female-figures, one ot" which reprefents Prudence, and the other Va- lour. Several Angels fupport the Family-arms of the Defunct, crowned with a Duke's Coronet, with which Title Charles II. King of Spain had honoured him. The whole is of exceeding fine black and white Marble, except the Pillars and Pilafters, which arc of a charming red Marble, with white Veins running through it. There are three Latin Infcriptions upon it, the middle one in Profe, and too long to be tranferibed here, containing a particular Hillory of his Actions : The other two are in Vcrfe as follows. An dE r i- MICHAELI RUITERO. taplis. I. Ruiteri hoc cincrcm vitloris et ojfa Sepulchro, Adferta - fingle Word of this great Man Lieutenant-Admiral, and Commander in chief of all the Naval Forces of the States of the United Provinces, who had ferved in above twenty Land Battles, or Sea Engagements •, who from a Cabbin- boy railed himfelf to that high Rank by his Merit alone, 3nd was an equally good Sailor, Pilot, Soldier and General : I may add, that he was the greateft i and through Holland. ** and beft Sea-Officer that ever failed •, and at the fame time, one of the moft 170';. virtuous and pious Men that ever breathed. Jamm^ You know that he was wounded in the Sea-fight between the French and ^ _ '" v *~ Dutch at Agoufta in Sicily, the 22d of April, 1676, and that lie died of his dam. Wounds feven Days after, on board his own Ship, in the Road of Syracufe. His Body was brought to Amfterdam, where he was moft magnificently bu- ried. And the States-General chearfujly gave twelve thoufand Florins for erecting to his Memory rhis fuperb Monument ; your Idea of which I have been attempting to refrefh. A certain Poet who delighted much in Puns and Conceits .made this Latin Couplet upon him after his Death. Tevruit Hifpanos Ruiter, tcr tcrruit Anglos, ter ruit in Gallos ; tcrritus ipfe ruit. I very opportunely call to mind here that Mr. Braakel Captain of the Waf- Anecdote Jhiiaer, in which we embarked for Cadiz, in 1695, told us feme-thing very par- concern - ticular concerning him. He allured us of it, as a certain Truth, that he had from JJf ^jLi Mr. IZngel Be Rubier, Son to the Admiral himfclf •, that his Father and the fa- n j vionf. mous Mr. Du Qutfne, two great Commanders of the naval Forces of Holland du <%uefne. and France, whom their Merit alone had railed, and whom we may with good Realon call the two firit Sea-Captains who efteemed and feared each other, mutually apprehended being forced to engage, and to avoid all Occafions of it, kept a fecret Correfpondence, and informed one ano- ther of all their Motions, lb that they might not meet, tho' they appeared to be in quell of one another. But at lalt the Win J,, and dc Ruyter's bad Fate, triumphed over all their Precautions. De Ruytn- was at Ivica, an Ifland on the Coaft of Spain in the M.-dir. r- rariean. He received Intelligence that Mr. Du ^uejhe was in Sicily, and that he was preparing to fail towards Naples. The Wind which was North-North- Wcfr, abated fuddenly, fo that Mr. Du ^uefnc could not get out from Si- 1 ; .V. R:j\:cron the other Hand, had a Southerly Wind, which drove him- to MeJJina, from whence the Wind would not let Die c ^uefne ftir ; fo that he was* at Anchor when the other firft came in Sight. He put to Sea inftantly, tak- ing Advantage of a fmall Wcttcrly Breeze, and came up with the Dutch Ad- miral, who could not retire out of his Way. It would have been unpar- donable Cowardife in the Former not to have gone out to meet the other, and in the Latter to have fled from him: They were both Perfbns of too great Honour to behave lb bafely ; efpccially after having f rmed to haw been looking out for one another for four Months pall. They met, and made ■ ' ' • ' mutually a terrible Fire for more than two H nirs, without lofing bffl! l£cMrlt of Wind, or making either of them one wrong Step in the whole Management of their Fleets. At lafl, the Dutch Admiral's Veiled committed a Blunder rhat made D« t^uefne believe that Ruyrr was dead, or at lealt wounded ; being periuaded that had he been himfclf in a Condition to comman , he would have kept to the Wiixk, and advanced Broad-fide, and not tup o'mi. h'16 Stern fo much in coming up as He did : For when Mr. DuQuefne faw him do it, F he 34 TRAVELS •7°5- he could not help crying out to his Men, that Ruyter was certainly killed ; " {^"-"- . [j ll pon which they redoubled their Fire, and would have come immediately to AmstiV- boarding J but the Dutch retreated, and Mr. Du .Quefne, very well fatisfied PA.-.t. with the Days work, did not purfue them very far. He was very muchdil- trefied, his Ship being pierced through and through in feveral Places •, almolt all his Mailing being fluttered, and all his Tackling broke ; and befides, he law there was a vaft Number of Dead and Wounded : In fhort, he flood in great Need of Time to recruit and repair, and therefore he returned to Mef- jhia, and the brave Admiral de Ruyter died of his Wounds aboard his Veflel in the Road of Syracufe. Mr. Du Qucf/ie openly gave him this Eloge, that he had done all that could be expected from a great Generjl, good Soldier, and expert able Sailor. The tomb There is befides in the fame Church behind the Pulpit, the Tomb of the Adm'iral fa™ 0115 Jean van Galen, who tho' the Son of a Tavern-keeper, railed himfelf Jtan van by his Bravery and good Conduct, to the Dignity of Vice- Admiral. This Gaitn. Monument is of Marble, and his Statue is almoll in the lame Attitude with that of De Ruyter. Underneath it is a Bas-relief, exhibiting the Victory he gained over the Englifij near to Leghorn, which colt him his Life ; and above there is the following Infcription in Letters of Gold. Itslnfcrip- Generofifllmo Hcroi Joanni a Galen EfTenfi. tion. ^i/i ofr res ftepe fortiter &? feliciter geftas, fexies nno anno Duinkerkanorum Vra- da tori am v.avem c apt am, & a Bar bar is opima fpolia report at a, ordinum clajfi in mari mediterraneo prafeSlus, memorabili prcelio ad hivornam, Deo Auxili- anie, Anglor. navibus captis, fugatis, incendio ci? fubmcrfione deletis, commer- cimn cum dicli maris accolis rejlituii Idibus Mart. A . MD.C.LIII. & altera pede truncatus, nono pojl vicloriam die, annos natus XLVIII. obiit, ut ftecula per gloriam vive'ret. lllujlr. rj? pr EFFE N UTT > '• e - Exailly. The Story, Calcula- if you choofe to hear the Tradition, is, that a Man tolerably rich, and who tinn of an dearly loved good Eating, took it into his Head, that he was only to live a Epicurean. ccrr , a j n Number of Years and no longer. In this Whimfey he counted, that if he fpent fo much a Year, his Eflate and his Life would expire together. It happened by Chance, that he was not deceived in either of thele Compu- tations. He died precisely at the Time he had prefcribed to himfelf in his Imagination, and had then brought his Fortune to fuch a Pafs, that he had nothing left buc a Pair of Slippers, after paying his Debts. His Relations buried him creditably, and would have the Slippers engraved on his Tomb, 3 with through Holland. 35 with the above-menlioned Laconic Devife, to exprefs the Exadneis of the «~o;. whimfical Calculation of this Epicurean Hog, or if yen pleafe Modern Apicius. P^"""^\ Mr. MJjj'on in a Marginal Note fays, there was once a defign to erect near Amster.- to this Church a very high Tower, but that this Enterprise was given over, dam. becaufe that Building funk in proportion as they railed this Spire. Olivier Dap- A fine per, a Learned "Dutch Phyfician fays, in his ancient and modern Hiftory of „ teepc , e " Amficrdam, that the Reafon for not finifhing it was, that the Magiftrates were not nnifh- afraid that this Spire might confiderably eclipfe or obfeure that of the Town- ed, and houfe. He adds, that it is a vulgar Error to believe that the Foundation vvh '/' gave way, that it was built upon fix Thouland three Hundred and fixty three Piles ; and that they were more than thirteen Months in driving thofe Piles into the Ground. 0t , In the ancient Church there are alfo two Tombs of two Admirals, which T om bs. are much talked of. One is that of the famous Heemjkrrk, who deftroyed the OjAdmi- Spanijh Fleet before Gibraltar, after having rendered his Name renowned from ral Hiemf- Pole to Pole. Mandejlo, p. 646, of his Voyage, has made Nonfenfe of this e Infcription, partly by changing Words, and partly by his incorrect Pointing. The Epitaph (lands thus. Hmiori £5? Altcrnitati. Jacobo ab Heemjkerk AmJleLedamenJi. His Epi- Viro fortijfuno £s? optime de P atria merito. ta Ph' Qui pofi varias in notas ignotafque or as Navigationes. In Novatn Zemblam fub Polo Arilico duas. In Indian: Orientalem verfus Antarclicum totidem. Indeque opimis fpoliis anno MD. C. IV. reverfus viclor. Tandem Expeditions maritime adverfus Hi/pa. fr/cfetlus. Eorundem validam Clajfem Hercuko aufu aggreflus. In freto Herculeo fub ipsa Arce & Urbe Gibraltar. VII. Kal. Maji anno MD. C. VII. fudit ac profligavit. Ipfe ibidem Pro P atria Jlrenue dimicans gloriose occubuit. Anima cxlo gaudet, corpus hoc loco jacet. Fave Leclor, famamque viri ama, cjf virlutem. Cujus ergo ab ' Illujlrijf. ci? Potentijf. Fxderat. Provin. Belgii Ordinibus P. P. H. M. P. Vixit annos XL. tnenf. 1. dies XII. Under this Infcription there is a fine Bafs-relief reprefenting a Sea-fight before Gibraltar, in which this brave Admiral was killed, after having burnt or funk the greateft Part of the Enemy's Fleet. The other Monument is that of Admiral Cornells Jansz van Amjterdam, firnamed the Cock, on Account of his Vigilance and Activity. His Epi- F 2 taph 36 TRAVELS i7 3 S- taph is in Verfe, compofed by the learned Cafpar Barhus, Profeflbr of Elo- Jr.,:uj 7°s- of Correction and the Stews, called in the Language of this Country Mu- 7 anua n'' fykhuyfen, furely thofe of Charity well deferved a Place in his Relation. They |j"^"~ _ are admired by all who fee them, and add greatly to the Reputation of Hoi- dam. land,ow account of their rich Endowments and Revenues, but chiefly for Charity- the prudent Oeconomy and admirable Order with which they are governed lloules - and managed. Befides the great Hofpital called Caflhuys, there are Houfes for Orphans of all Nations and Religions •, others for receiving and taking Care of expofed Children, which fometim.es amount to above twoThouland, Boys and Girls : Theie Children are taught ufeful Trades : They are kept in thefe Hofpitals 'till they are in a Condition to gain their Living, and then fomething is given to eitablifh them. There are likewife Houfes for the Aged of both Sexes-; who have nothing to fubfift upon, where rhey are very well lodged and taken care of all the reft of, their Days. And there arc Infir- maries for Lunaticks, and the Difordered in Mind. The Princip.il Magiftrates of the City are the Governors of thofe Charity- Houfes, and their Wives and Daughters do not dildain to pafs in their Turns a Day in the Week in one or other of them, to overlee and direct the Houf- hold-management. All theie Foundations and the good Police of this City have this excellent Effect , that there are no Beggars in the Streets. The Number or thole Houfes is very confiderable. But there is one that Oh;r In- more particularly merits our Attention ; and that fo much the rather that no fancea of Traveller, as far as I know, hath ever taken Notice of it. It is the only one "fp'y of the Kind, perhaps in the World. Amftcrdam is the perpetual Refort of '" Perfons of all Nations, who come to it by Accident or about Bufincfs, a great Number of whom have not much to fpend ; and the Taverns are in general very dear. Now the Wifdom of the Magiftracy has above a hundred Years ago provided againft this Inconveniency. They have buik and well rented fpacious Edifices, where all poor Stran- gers of both Sexes, who ate obliged to make any Stay in this City, are re- ceived, neatly lodged, and have Bed, Board and Warning for three Days and Nights, during which Time if any of them happen to fall tick, they are tran- fported into a neighbouring Hofpital. But after three Days (which Time is luppofed fufficient for -the Difpatch of Bufinefs to fuch fort of People ) they muft move from hence, and they are not allowed to retvirn hither for fix Weeks. If any are found out tranfgreffing this Rule, they are feverely punifhed. Moreover to maintain good Order in this Houfe, amidft fuch a confuted Mixture of Perfons of the loweft Ranks, there are feveral excellent Regulations, which are all obferved and executed with the utmoft Exactnefs. In fine, to prevent that fcandalous Practice, which is tolerated in io many Chriftian Countries, though it evidently be the Source of an Infinity of Dif- orders and Crimes, I mean that of differing Perfons to beg in the Streets, there are Officers to take up all fuch Vagabonds, and convey them forthwith into Houfes on purpofe, where they are forced to work every one in his own Bj- fincfs, and in proportion to his Strength and Ability. Here alfo all the Poor who TRAVELS who want Work, who offer themfelves voluntarily, are received. And what com pleats the Police in this Country, is, that at Amftcrdam, and in mod of the confiderable Cities of Holland, there is a public Office, where all poor Tra- vellers that can give any Account of themfelves may go and take a Loaf, a Penny, and a Pafs-port, by Virtue of which tfuyare received gratis into the Boats which carry Pafl'engers and Goods from Town to Town. The A:fc- Fhe Arfcnal and Yards of the Admiralty well deferve our particular No- na! of the ticc, as well as the Magazine of the famous Eaft-India Company, of which Admiralty y[ v Mjjjen hardly fays two Words. The firft is a Houfe of three Stories, exceedingly well ftorcd with all the NecefTaries for equipping Ships of War, and where People are inctflantly at Work about all Sorts of Things, proper for the Sea-Service : It is 200 Feet in Length, and in Breadth 228. Its Walls are thick ; and this vaft Edifice, tho' built amidft Water, was begun •and finifhed in nine Months. 'Tis a Fleafure to fee here the Order and good Arrangement of Cannons, Bullets, Cartridges, of all Sizes. In another Place, are Cables, Ropes, and Rigging of all Sorts-, higher up are Sails in vaft. Quantites •, and in another Place, Mulquets, Carabines, Pirtols, Cuc- lafhes, Half-pikes, and other Arms. In the uppermoft Story are Sea- charts, Mariners-Compafles, Altrolabes, Ship-lights, Pullie.% Flags, Streamers, Bandrols, Fanes, Sand-glafTes, Matches, and a hundred other Things belonging to Ships of War. But what is the fineft Spectacle of all is about feventy large Men of War, the fmalleft of which carry 40 Cannon; thefe are inclofed with a double Fence of Palifades. 'Tis true they are not armed or rigged, but lying fo near the Arfcnal they could foon be fitted out for Service in Cafe of Need. The Rope-yards are likewife very near the Arfenal. We fee Docks here, and Carpenters at Work build- ing Ships, fome are juft begun, others almoft finifhed, and fome are ready to be launched. What a Quantity is here of Mafb, Yards, Floor-Timbers, Pully-pieces, Keclfbns, Ribs, Spars, Pieces for eking Girts, every Thing in fhort, for Carpenter's Work in the Building of Ships ? On the other Side are Anchors, and all Sorts of Iron-work ; at making which a vaft Number of Cyclopes, in the Service of the Admiralty, labour hard from Tafl-hidia Morning to Night. In one Word, this Arfenal, tho' not lb celebrated Com ,\ as that of Venice, well deferves a Vifit from Tiavellers. Houfe. 1 ne E-aJl-India Company Houfe lies a little further to the Right-hand ; and it is Hill a much larger Building : For it is in breadth 636 Feet, and 70 in length. It is four Story high, and has two large Pavilions for Wings. It is lb filled with all Sorts of precious Merchandife from the Eaft-Indies, that it is impoffible to exprefs its Riches. This vaft Edifice is fo furrounded with Water, that we mult go to and from it in Boats. Befides this prodigious Fabrick, there are other Houfes feparated from it for all Sorts of Works and Crafts, necefTary to fit out Ships for fuch long and important Voyages. A- mong feveral other Ships, belonging to this Company, we were pointed to one in particular that had made fixteen Voyages to the Eaft-Indies. It is true, it is fo fhattered and wore out that it is now kept merely for Curiofity, and not for Ufe. The Rope-yard, where all Kinds of Handicrafts are in- ceffantly carried on, is above 2000 Feet in length. It is divided into feveral Allies, through Holland. 3 y Allies, feparated by Walls of three Feet thick. It is the longelt I have «7°5- ever feen. Z^Zj Mr. Mijjbn has had very bad Information concerning this Company. It .\mster- was not eftablifhed, as he tells us, pag. 29. Tom. 1. in 1594. About the End dam. of that Year fome private Perlbns freighted four fmall Ships, which they fent Krrorsin for the firft Time to try their Fortune in the Eaji- Indies. They did not R '^ t '^ n in fail from the Texel till the 2d of April, the Year following ; and after a pain- l0 that fa- ful Voyage, and lofing one of their Ships, which they were obliged to burn, mcus fo leaky was it become, the other three returned at the Clole of 9 Months. Company. They brought with them Rarities and Spiceries enough from that Country to encourage other Merchants to fend back in 1598 eight Veffels, which had much better Succefs than the former. The effectual Eftablifhment of the Eafi-India Company, with a Patent from the States-General, was not till many Years after in 1602. And their Patent has always been renewed every twenty Years. This Company brings immenfe Riches into the Common- wealth, and is become fo powerful in Afia, that it poffeffes whole Kingdoms there, and often bears head againft the greateft Princes with no bad Succeli'. Yet its firit Fund was but fix million and fix hundred thoufand Gilders. Tho' this vaft India Trade be carried on under the Name of a particular ^ fs vaft Comp.iny, it is however very certain, that the whole Republic is interelted in omn,erce it. The ancient Romans aimed at the Conquefr. of the World, by Dint, of p/^/ ip t)ie warlike Valour and Force ; and they fucceeded while they were united ; Good, and their Ruin was owing to their Factions and civil Animofities. The Re- the States public of Holland, more refined in her Politics than ancient Rome, does not G«*r«/"a afpire at governing all, but at giving Motion to all, and takes a more am- p i, cy $ n ning Way to accomplifh her End : namely, by univerfal Commerce. She relation to knows that Philip le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, to whom the Netherlands Trade, belonged, furnifhed his Subjects Money without Intereft, to be employed in Commerce, and That in order to ftiengthen them for bolder Enterprises. Moreover, forfeeing that Commerce would one Day bring in vaft Riches into his States, he not only granted great Privileges to thofe who engaged in it, but honoured them with Titles and Diftinclions of all Kinds. Yet this wife Prince never engaged in Trade himfelf, farther than to fupport the Union, Peace, Credit and Honefly neceffary to its Flourifhing. He well knew that it is the Merchant alone who understands Commerce •, the Ne- gotiant only who can manage Tiade. Afterwards in the War which the United-Provinces were involved in againft Philip II. King of Spain, whofe Yoke they had fnaken off, the States-General, following the Example of the Duke of Burgundy, encouraged Particulars to fend Ships to the Indies, to make Settlements, and thereby to do all the Prejudice they could to their Enemy. Thefe private Perfons fucceeded in their Project, and formed a Society of Traders to the Eajl-lndies, under the Authority and Protection of the States-General. That See here the Beginning of the Grandeur and Opulence of this Republic, Com- now richer than many Crown'd Heads joined together. Let her be ever fo P an y s much crufhed or oppreffed in Europe, fhe can never be deftroyed while jv wer ; a (he continues to be well united at Hymc. Her Indian Commerce, in which Afia, all TRAVELS ail her Subjects arc concerned, will always fupport her. It is by extenfr.T Commerce and wife Policy, fupported by great Oeconomy, and a flegmatic Patience proof againft every thing, that this Covwcn-tveaitb hath gradually fpread its Settlements fo tar into this Country, acquired luch large Territories in ir, and been able to make fo many Kings of Afia her Tributaries and Val- vals, whom fhe keeps in greater Awe and Subjection, than ever Rome did thole Princes whom fhe had fubdued. In truth, fhe leaves them the empty Title of King?, and the Power of Life and Death over fomc of their Subjects, but they have no Authority over any in the Dutch Service, or any of the Dutch Allies, not even over any that put themfclves under their Protection. And all this enhaunces the Authority of this Republic to fuch a Fitch, that thof. Princes dare neither make War or Peace, but as it pleafcs the Dutch, who re- gulate as Mediators all the Terms and Articles conformably to their own In- tcrefts, without the leaff. Regard to thole of the Afian Princes. Not but that they feel their Slavery, but becaufe it is not in their Power to fhake it off, and they have loft all Hopes of recovering their Liberty, fince the Port uguefe were fbamefully driven from the Ifland of Ccy'on. It is true their Pride at) 1 infupportable Tyranny, and their brutal abominable Diffblutcnefs obliged the King of that Ifland to call the Dutch to his Afhftance, to cxpj! fo pcrverlc and corrupt a People : But he has long ago found, that he is a greater Slave than when the Portuguefe were in his liland. Its refined Another Rcafon which hinders the Eaftern Princes from attempting to Polios in rhrowofftbc Yoke the Dutch have impofed upon them, is that the Latter have tliat C.un- t j ie Cunning to involve the Former in inteftme Wars one againft another, trv . . • ... and to ftir up Seditions and Infurrections within their Dominions in order to weaken them, and cftablifh their own Power upon their Ruins : Wirnef-, the Emperor of Mutaran, the Kings of Bantam, Father and Son, and many others. The Englifi and French efhblifhed in Afia, accufe them of having fo- mented under-hand, the Revolt of Sevagi and Re-;ir,y'a his Son, againft the Grand Mogul, Awcngzeb ; either by fupplying them lecretly with Money, or by privately furnifhing than with Dutch Engineers, much more brave and expert than the Afuit'u ones of the Mogul. They have, in fhort, fo dex- troufly managed their Affairs, that they are now in PofTcmon often or twelve Places in the Dominions of this Prince fo ftrongly fortified, that they are in a Condition to hold out againft a Royal Army. The Sovereign Princes of F.u- , n rtfpe count for nothing all the Conqucfts and Settlements of the Du'ch in Afia: V ,li ics of This proceeds from their being entirely taken up in Europe, with Objects that the Enri- more immediately ftrike their Senfcs, and not extending their Views to Futu- fcan Pnn- ,.; t y_ yet they may have a dimple of future Events in what hath happened. I low many Things are there which are ncccffiry, or are made fo by the Opi- nion of Mankind, that other Nations, 'he Euglifi not excepted, only have ■ gh their Channel ? By engroffing Commerce, will they not always be a! 1 to have Sovereigns in their Pay and dependent upon them? Such more especially with tcgaraltt whofe States, the Dutch Settlements in the Indies are of no Cu.llqience ? ; ,'ath not this appeared in ieveral Inftances ? What fupported the Treaty of the Triple AHLwcc, but the DutAj Money? What hath ces through Holland. 41 hath induced fo many Princes to make fuch Diverfions in Europe in Favour ir°v of this Republic ? It was the vaft Sums with which lhefurniflied them, and Hie 7 amauy '. . alone perhaps could furnifh them. Thus having nothing to fear while fhe is AmTtfr- Miftrefsof the vaft Eaft-India Commerce, ftie may always Jay, Si- out being accountable to the fame States-General. fa" >s II this Company be rigorous in pun idling Crimes, it is no his punctual in 0UmJed - recompencing Merit, and every good Action of every Subject of whatfoevcr Rank or Condition. This engages every one to do his Duty, as well tferoogh Fear of Punilhment, as Hope of Rewards ; fo that till this Moment bath none betrayed the Interefts of this prudent Company. The Power of Life and Death with which this Company is veiled, may leem to make a double So- vereignty in the United Provinces : But it is a Miltake. The Company has this Power in the Indies only, and not in Holland, there the Authority of rhe States-General is undivided. It is the Intereft of the Republic, that this Com- pany fhould have this Power as far as it extends. It nukes the Society more G feared 4 i T R A V T E L S ^ i7 5- feared and refpefted, and the Republic profits in general by the Riches that '"2\ it brings from Afia. We don't hear of Officers who ferve this Colony ill, •'. ■: - 1 er- as v,e 1o °f ten do of bad Officers in the Settlements abroad of other Nations, dau in thofeof France more efpecially, in which the Officers ferve againft their Hearts, and are perpetually murmuring that they fhould be obliged to ferve Merchants while they are, as the Saying is, in France, diverting themfelves with their Wenches. The Officers of this Company in the Nomination of whom neither * favourite Petticoats of Princes, nor three Corner'd Caps have any thing to do, and who owe their Preferments purely to their Merit, uphold themfelves by the fame Methods which railed them. And thus a noble Emulation is infpired into their Inferiors, becaufe every one hopes to arrive as well as they, by their good Services, to Employments, which are always bellowed according to Merit. Vagrants \ had almoft forgot to tell you, that the United Provinces gain another very and !5 akrs confiderable Advantage from this Eftablifhment ; which is, that it purees arc lent to • ** 1 . r o the Indies, them from time to time of the Rakes and Vagabonds that infeft it : This is making Profit on all Hands. France might eafily do the fame, if the Com- merce with Afia and America were as prudently condueted there, as it is by the Dutch. Paris itfelf alone would furnifh more than fifty thoufind Scoundrels, who do nothing, but fpin and twill, fo to fpeak, a Rope to hang themfelves. This Vermin in the Capital of the Kingdom, would find the Correction proper for them, in being obliged to indifpenfibly neceffary Work: The Children would not be tainted by the Infection of their Parents bad Example; and thus by degrees we might come to have an honeft Brood. This hap- pened at ancient Rome, the firft Inhabitants of which City were only a con- lufed Tribe of Robbers conducted thither by two Baftards : This we alfo fee at prefent in feveral Colonies, which Originally were nothing better than a Company of Whores and Scelerates. Let us now return to Amfterdam : And we may fay of it in general, that it is one of the molt beautiful, and without Con troverfy, the richeft City in Eu- rope of its Bulk, and it indeed well deferves the high Renown it is in through- A P e ; out all the World. Its Situation would very nearly refemble that of Venice, K f r '^ u ° n being wholly built upon Piles, and divided into feveral Ifiands, were it not nam, ' joined to the Land on the Side where the Meadows lie, if we may call a Country fo, which is pierced and cut by Canals, and where the Water is higher than the firm Land. And this whole large City is a Robbery, the Patience and Induftry of the People have committed on the Sea. The vaft Number of Palifades which defend it againft the Violence of the Waves on the Side of the River, and the Zuyderzee, is as wonderful as neceffary ; and its Port is the Rendezvous of all the Riches of the Eaft, Weft, South and North. It hath carried its Commerce farther than ancient Rome did its Conqueffs. It has en- riched itfelf with the Spoils of two Worlds, whereas Rome contented herfelf with thole of one. The vaft Foreft of Ship-Mafts one fees there, fo far be- yond what is any where elfeto be feen, proclaims Amfterdam the Miftrefs of the * Madame de Malntcnon and the Jefuits. Sea, through Holland. ^ Sea, and the Source and Refidence of the belt Sailors that have ever been in ^ 1705. the World. While one is amidft this prodigious Concourfe of Ships, he J a ™ "'_':> ■ imagines himfelf to be in the general Mart or Fair of the Univerfe. For how AmIVek can he think otherwife of a City where fo many different Nations center, and dam. where finch vaft Riches are displayed and expofed to Sale ? The Canals which cut the principal Streets, the Rows of fine Trees which make fo many charm- ing Alleys running along the Sides of them, and the prodigious Number of Stone Bridges, adorned with Rails of Iron Bread: high, which make Commu- nications over all the Town, are none of its lead Ornaments. The magni- ficent Houfes, the Profpecl of which is truly admirable, built with great Uni- formity on the Keys of the Canals, add exceedingly to its Beauty, and an im- menfe Number of Magazines, Ware-houfes and Shops, that are filled with the richeft and molt valuable Commodities in the World, teftify its vail Opu- lence. Its Streets, which are for the moft part upon a Level, afford on all Sides the mod enchanting Views. The People fwarm here, and all Hands are bufy, fo that all is in Motion : In one Word, here Idlenefs hath no foot- ing, no fhelter; and here reign Induftry and Commerce, with their infepara- ble Attendants and Companions, Wealth and Plenty. And yet it is not above 300 Years fince it was only inhabited by Fifhermen. On the Land-fide there is a broad Ditch without a Counterfcarp, for there * ts For! '- is no need of one. Its Strength confilts in its being eafy to cut a Pafiage for hca " on, • the Water, and fo drown all the Works that can be made in order to ap- proach it. The Sea runs twice a Day into this Ditch which is very deep, and not Ids than 80 Paces in Breadth ; and the Fields being much lower than the Waters, and the River Amjlel, one may eafily comprehend what Condition Works of Approach would foon be in, if an Outlet for the Water were cut through the Bank which confines them. There are no Out-works, for they could be of no Utility ; but upon this Side, the City is covered by 27 BafHons, all of which are faced with Bricks, and are as regular as the Figure of the Town's Circumference permitted. The Gates are placed in the middle of the Courtaines, with a Clock upon each, and all the Bridges are made to draw up and let down : The Platforms are very good, and there are Wind- Mills on all the Baftions, a great Conveniency in a Siege, for the Befiegers will not ered: Batteries againft every Mill. Yet a fevere hard Winter would render all thefe Fences ulelefs •, and the Prince of Orange, Father to King Wil- liam III. had in all probability fucceeded in his Defign of making himfelf Matter of Amflerdam, had hebefieged it in that Seafon. I fay nothing to you of North-Holland, nor of the exceffive Neatnefs of its XonbHol- Inhabitants, who carry their Cleanlinefs to fucha Pitch, as to warn and clean land. feveral Times in a Day the Stalls for their Cows, and to tie the Tails of thofe Animals by a Rope to a Pol!, that they may not dirty them by their Urine or Dung, and an hundred other fuch Extravagancies which arc a lino ft incre- dible. You, who have formerly feen this Country know, that it abounds with excellent Pafturage that greatly enriches the Pcalants, among whom thereare who pofiefs above a hundred thoufand Crowns of Effate. You know alio that its principal Towns are Enckbuyfen, Horn, Ahnacr, MeJcmblyk, E km fo G 2 famous 44 TRAVELS 170;. famous for its excellent red crufted Chcefe; Monickendam, Purmurend, and "Jai,ua,y. $ i{r( j am ^ where yearly a great Number of Ships are built. Mr. Mijfon has very well corrected the Miftake of Monconys, who faid that Erafums invented the Ufe of Turf; for belides Julius Scaliger, whom the Former quotes, Charles Patin, in his Treatile upon Turfs for Fire, afiures us Turf' that Turfs have been tiled in Holland for above 400 Years. Bat Mr. MiJJon ought not to have ftopt there ; here was the proper Place for informing his Friend, that thefe Turfs or Peats confilt of a vifcous Subftance, dug out of fenny or marfliy Grounds, called in Dutch Veevcn ; that after digging them, they are expolid to the Sun and Wind to dry and harden them ; that they are cut into fquare Pieces, and tranlported over all the United Provinces in B.uks made on purpofe ; and that they are fo full of Sulphur and bituminous Mat- ter, that all who lit in Winter round a great Peat-fire, appear pale and livid like Ghoits ; which nuts me in Mind of an Enigma that will quickly be un rid died. Die quibus in lerris pereunt fua rura Colonis, Ipfaque concept fomile fiagrat humus ? Et mox effrjfi vetlantur navibus agri, Na'iadcsque natant nunc ubi Vejla fuit ? Sjvcial I think, before leaving his Description of Holland, Mr. Mijfon ought to Remarks naV e obferved, that this Province alone is richer and more potent than die fix /" f others together ; that it has three of the five Courts of Admiralty that are ncral. " in the whole United Provinces ; one at Rotterdam, one at Amfterdam, and the third at Horn and Enckhuyfen in North Holland: The other two are at Middle- bourg for Zeeland, and at Harlingen for Friezcland; but, on the other hand, when a Sum of an hundred thoufand Crowns is raifed for the Service of the State, the Province of Holland alone furnifhes 57500 of them : That it contains 30 good Towns, and near 500 Villages. That anciently there were but Six Ci- ties in it ; Dort, Harlem, Delft, Leyden, Amjlerdam, and Gouda or Tergoud, which had Votes in the States of the Province •, but at the very Foundation of the Republic, William I. Prince of Orange added twelve more, viz. Rot- terdam, Gorcum or Gordichem, Schiedam, Schoonhove, Brill or Bricl, Alckmaar y Horn, Enckhuyfen, Edam, Monickendam, Mcdcmblyck, and Purmurcnd ; that thefe Cities might by this Honour conferred upon them by turns, be more affeclionately attached to him in the Afiembly of the States, and becaufe he thought they would contribute more chearfully towards the public Relief, when they were thus made better acquainted with its Diftrefles. To draw towards a Conclufion, though this Province produces nothing but excellent Butter and Cheefe ; yet, we may juftly fay that the Conve- niences of Life are here in greater Abundance than in any other Country of Europe. Here is an Epigram addreffed by the learned Jofeph Scaliger to his Friend Janus Doufa, upon this Subject. Jgnorata through Holland. 45 1705. Ignorata tu<£ referr.m miracula 'Terra AmTTTr- DOUSA, peregrinis non habitura fidem. dam. Omne Lanilium hit lajfal Textrina Minervs ; 1^1 i^ram hanigeros tamen hinc feimus abe/Je greges. of Jijepb Non capiunt operas fahriks opp'nia vejlra ; > upon i hat Nulla fabris tamen Lee ligna minijlrat humus. Country. Horrea triticea naupunt tic frugis at crvi ■, Pafcuus I. % taaen eft, non Cerealis ager. Hie numerofa meri ftipantur dolt a cellis ; £hfie vineta colal, nulla Pulator habit. Hie nulla, aut eerie feges rariffima Lhti ; Linifici tamen eft eopia major ubi ? Hie mediis habitatur aquis : y^itis cred:re poffit ? Et tamen hie nu'Le, Don/a, bibuntur aquiryTV. after having accompa- dation of n j e d this Prince in all his Wars, was made by him the 22d Bifiiop of Utrecht. oWtnclt ^ 0W ^ e ' worth while in my Travels. C H A P. VII. Departure from Holland, into Germany. The chief Towns between- Amsterdam and DuiTeldorp, with Observations upon each of them. Muyden, Naerden, Amersfort, Arnhem, Djefbourg, Wefel, Rhin- Berg, Duis-bourg, Kayferswert, THIS Morning we fet out from Amfterdam at the opening of the Gates, Fesr. 61 in our Pott-Chariot, as they call it. Thele Machines are very high P^ 11 Chi - mounted, mounted, one may fay, upon Stilts : Befides, they are adorned " ot ,* ° . without with certain moving Plates of Iron, which make a terrible Rattling: in other Refpeds they are convenient enough, if they were hung with Springs, and were not a Ladder necelTary to get up into them of which one is fattened to each Door. About Nine in the Morning we paffed through Muyden, a little Town Muyden, a that in the Year 1672, farrendered itfelf to three French Cavaliers in a pa- ("mail nic Fright, with which the People and Burgo-mafters were foolifhly feized. ? wn , Thefe three Sparks going a Marauding, met with one of their own Trum- t j, e f r< ^j peters that wa^ returning to Naerden, of which the French were then Matters, j n 157;. who joined them. After having rambled fometime, they loft their Way, and inftead of the Read to Naerden, were got into that to Muyden. Thefe Droles immediately diicovered their Miftake, and to make the belt of it they could, they had the Impudence to fummons this Town by the Trumpeter along with them, why told the Magittrates, that a numerous Detachment of ^ TRAVELS Fortifica- tions. of the French Army was not above half an Hour's March from the Place with Febr. 6 a Defio-n to inveil: it. This News (o frightened thefe Fools, that they re- J7 — Cr 1 |blved?mmediate!y to carry them the Keys of the Town, with the Olive- branch. The Marauders forthwith difpatched the Trumpeter full fpeed to Naer- deu to make fomc Troops come, which arrived foon alter and took PolTeffion of Muyden without flriking a Blow. The three brave Wags were found at a JJurgQ-rn_after's Houfe with the Glaffes in their Hands very merrily enter- tained. We need not afk what Praifes they had from their Officers ; nor how this Exploit was celebrated by the merry Wags, and Glafs-breakers of the Army in their Sonnets. This 1'own was one of thofe the French after- wards abandoned voluntarily. Kaer- An Hour after we break failed at Nam/en. This is the laft Town in the den and Province of Holland on this Side, and the Metropolis of a little Territory called Goybnd. It is within Cannon-mot of Zuyderzee, and three Leagues from Amjierdam. It is but a ffnall City, but in Point of Fortifications it is a Jewel, both for Regularity and Beauty. They were executed upon a Plan oiven by the renowned Engineer Storff, a Colonel in a Dutch Regiment of Foot, wholikewife fortified Grave and Breda. The Fortifications arc all lined with good Bricks, and encompafi'ed with large and deep Ditches, that are filled with Water in all Seafons of the Year. Taken by During the War of the King of France with the Dutch in 1672, The Mar- ine French quis of Rochcfort, who commanded a Hying Camp, lent thither after the taking 101672. f J mers fcrt, a Detachment of 600 Men. This Handful of Men no (boner appeared in Sight of Naerden, than the Garrifon and Part of the Inhabitants" were fo frighted, that they took to their Heels and run to A;;;jlerdam as faff. as their Legs could carry them, and thofe who did not fly opened the Gates and delivered this ftrong Place into the Hands of a few French, on the 20th of June, 1672. Retaken The Year fullowing, the Prince of Orange finding that this Town blocked the Year up the Provinsce of Holland, Amflcrdim in particular, on that Side, befieged it following, j n t | ic Beginning of September. He continued to attack and batter it Day and p y tJ ! e f Night without lntermiflion, and fo obliged it to capitulate the 13th of the Oravge. fav& Month, i. e. in nine or ten Days after opening the Trenches. This v/as the firlf Town that this Prince re-took from the French, and this Suc- cefs revived the Courage of the Hollanders, which was fadly funk by the Lofs of three cf their Provinces in a Ihort Time. * 1:7:. A Hundred Years * before, the Duke of Alba, having re-taken Mons the That Capital of the Ha'jiaidt, lent his Son Frederic of Toledo to befiege Zutpbcn, Town w^ich he molt inhumanly pillaged after they had capitulated. Afterwards having laid fiege to Naerden, the Inhabitants, more brave than their Succeffbrs in ti.e War 1672, defended themfelves to the laft Extremity -, fo rhat Fre- *•'» deric del, .airing of taking it by Force, fent Julian Romero, an Officer of con- vialik Difhnclion in his Army, to offer them honourable Terms of Capi- tion. The Garrilbn and Inhabitants having no Hopes of Succour, ac- cepted through Holland. ceptcd and fell into the Hands of the Spaniards ; who were no fooner Matters of the Place than the perfidious Frederic broke his and Romero's Word ■, cru- elly malTacred all the Inhabitants, without Diftinction of Sex or Age, and left the dead Carcaffes three Weeks in the Streets, without burying them. Not fatisfied with this, he burnt the Houfes to the Ground, and razed the Walls ; Outrages which were looked upon, even by the moll cruel, rather as deteft- able Crimes than the juft Punifhment of their Revolt. About Mid-day we got to Amersfort to Dinner. This is a pretty large Amtrtfbrf Town, and the fecond in Rank of the Province of Utrecht. The fame Mar- ofthe'Pro- quis of Roche/ 'or t, who took Naerden, had pofTeft himfelf of Amersfort the v | nce of Day before, without lofing one Man ; fuch Terror and Confternation had j^vTjhs the French Arms at that Time every where fpread. After the Death of King a ry. JVilliam of England, the Populace of this City made an Infurredlion again ft the Magiftrates, depofed them in the mod violent Manner, and put new ones in their Room. The States-General, being informed of this Diftur- bance, fent Deputies immediately to reduce thofe Male-contents to their Duty i but to lb little Purpofe, that they found themfclves obliged to have recourfe to what is commonly called, Ratio ultima Regum, that is to fay, to fend Troops and Artillery, which made them open their Gates three Days after. They fatisfied themfclves with making Examples of the molt guilty, amongft whom was one of the new Burgo-mafters, the chief Author of this Rebellion, who was hanged. After we left Naerden, the Face of the Country quite changed ; we faw no The Face longer the Canals and Meadows of Holland : Now the cultivated Fields rife of th,s upon us infenlibly. Between Amersfort and Amheim there are feveral Planta- jur— J?' tions of Tobacco, which produce a Quantity furhcient for carrying on a from that confiderable Commerce of that Sort. Every Plant is propped as Vines com- of Holland monly are. We faw nothing very remarkable between thefe two Towns, except the Houfe in which Frederic V. King of Bohemia, and Eleclor-Pala- Hou k of tine, lived with his Family for fome Years. You know, Sir, with what Q ^Sobe- daftardly, fhameful Tamenefs your King James I. of Great Britain, who was ma, and fitter to govern a College than a Kingdom, furVered the Emperor Ferdi- hisHiftory nand II. to ftrip this Prince of his Dominions, tho* he had efpouled his only Daughter. The Gates of this City were fhut before we came to Amheim, but a fmall Gratification to the Porters foon opened one of them to us. Money you know is a Mafter-key that unlocks every Thing. A)-nheim, called in Latin Arenaam, isfituated upon the Bank Df the Rhine, Feir.j,t. in that Part of the Dutch Guelderland, called Veluive. It is the Capital of it, A*beim. and not Nimegue, as feverals have laid, and among others the learned J?'!? of Patin. The latter is in the Betuive, on the other Side of a Branch of thc/^." Rhine, called the JVahal, and famous on Account of the Treaty of Peace, concluded there in 1678, and 79. between France with her Allies, and the other Powers of Europe, In Amheim the States and the Nobility of the Pro- vince hold their Affemblies : And here likewife refides the Court of Guelder- land, which judges of civil and criminal Guiles. Numb. II. H During TRAVELS During the War in 172. this City furrendered itfelf to the Marfhal T:<- 8 - rennc, wichout'rnakirig the lead Refiftanee. It was, during this War, that '~^ J _ the States and Nobles of this Province thought it expedient to offer the So- je 'gncy cf vcreignty of this Town to the Prince of Orange : But young as he then wa ihis Pro- lie had lb much command ever his Ambition as not to accept of this Pre lent ; v. i-.ee of- ,j\ c [i n g i no t improbably, that thofe who propofe to enlarge their Power lh g e p,- inot and Authority by over-turning Laws, Immunities and Privileges, which have . been long eftablilhed in a State, run head-long on their own Ruin ; and that and rcfuf- j t fc equally unjult and dangerous, to truft to fuch Politics. However that ed - may be, without doubt this Prince had his Rcafons for refufing fuch an ad- vantageous offer ; and the Event jultified his prudent Conduit in fo delicate an Affair. Dr. Burnet tells us, that this Prince refufed, among other Offers that were made to him, the Sovereignty of the chief Town in the United Provinces, whidf was profered to him by a Iblemn Depuration ; adding, that he has au- thentic Memoirs to vouch this Fact. Undoubtedly Amjlerdam is the chief Town in the United Provinces ; but the Sovereignty of that City was never offered to him, and perhaps he might not have refufed fuch a Gift, if it had, as he did that of the chief Town in the Province of Guelderland : So that I think we may fafely call in Queftion the Authority of thefe Vouchers, with- out offending the learned Bifliop of Salijbury, for whofe Merit I have a very hieh Reeard. Several Arnheim is a very ancient City : Othon IV. Count of Guelderland, furround- Particulars ec j j t w j t jj a ft,- on g Wall, and built the principal Church there, dedicated to inz">"- ^ t- E- U fi^ us - I ts Fortifications are pretty gootl, tho' fomewhat tattered and heim. worn out. But here we do not find the Neatnefs of the Towns in Holland, neither in the Houfes nor Streets. Mr. Mijfon fays very gravely, pag. 40. of his Travels, that one mud have a Ladder to mount up to the Beds in the Inns here : that is, exaggerating a little, for hardly can a Step or two at molt be fo called. The Inhabitants of this Country were named Menapii in ancient Times. We fet out pretty early from this Place in a Vehicle, yet ruder than our laft. Being allured that the Road by Emmeric, which is the ordinary Rout, Docsburg, was i m p ra( fticable at this Seafon of the Year, we croffed by Iffel at Doe/burg ; Hiftory which is a Town in the Lordfhip of Znlphen, three Leagues from Arnhem, and fituated at the Mouth of the Canal, which was dug by Drufus, Brother to Tiberius ; its ancient Name was Drujiburgum and Arx Drujia. It was a very ftrong Place in 1672. having nine Baftions, four half Moons, as many Ravelins, and a horned Work. But Lewis XIV. having befieged it in Per- fon, the ijth o{ June, that fame Year, the Governor had the Cowardice to give himfelf up four Days after, Prifoner of War, with the whole Garri- fon, conlifting of above 3500 Men. Now Doejburg is a pitiful little dif- mantled Town. At Noon we dined in another Town, called Dolekom, re- markable for nothing but its Beer, which is highly boaftcd of in that Coun- try. The Prince of 'Condi took it in 1672. We through Holland. 51 We came next to a little Town called Terburg, which, with- its tolerably r-o;. good Cattle, belongs to the Prince of NaJJmt-Zighen : Then after palling Fcl '- 1- 8 through a Country, very much under Water, we came to Anholt, a very in- ^T/^CT confiderable Town, where however there is a magnificent Palace-. An In- habitant, who appeared to us to be a Perlbn jbmewhat above the ordinary *? . ' Rank, feeing us Stop to look a little at the Building, allured us", that the In- ma g n ig- fide was fumptuous, and well worth feeing •, but it was too late to (lay to fee centCaftlc Furniture. The Prince of Salms, firft Gentleman of the Chamber to the King of the Romans, is Lord of this Town and Caftle. Thence we went to a little naked Place called Jflelbourg, the firft Town on this Side, in the Duchy IJiibaurti of Cleves, which belongs, as you know very well, to the King of Prujfia. Next Morning we went on in our Journey to IVefel, thro' a molt ddagree- Weftl. able Road, where there is nothing to be leen but Heath and Fcrelt. There we faw a very fine Citadel, built by Order of his Pruffian Majetty, which is S lta e a Pentagon, fituated upon the Lippe, a fmall River, that not far from thence difcharges itfelf into the Rhine. All its Courts have Ravelmes ; all its Baftions Orillons, there are Places of Arms upon Places ol Arms, double Counterfcarp, and, in a Word, a great many Out- works, but no Cafernes. Ic is a large, nay vaft Building, and beautiful enough, but would require a Garrifon ot 5 or 6000 Men to defend it : Its fandy Foundation made it ne- cefiary to line the inner Rampart with Stone, to make it the itronger. This Citadel is not yet finilhed : They are inceffantly at Work to compleat it. The Fortifications of this Town are far from being defpicable ; it has 8 Fo-tifica- large Baftions, and feveral Ravelins; of which only the five principal ones are t ' onsofthe lined, and belides there is within Cannon-fhot oi the Town a Fort of four BaJtions, upon the Bank of the River called the Fort of the Lippe, but a little lhattered. IVefel is likewife in the Duchy of Cleves, and one of the Hanfe-Towns. It was belieged in 1672. by the late Prince of Conde, notwithstanding all h was ba- the Efforts of its Magiftracy to obtain a Neutrality, as Subjects of the Elector fie ged by of Brandebourg. All their Instances were ineffectual, and the Town furreor , frn dered, without making any Oppofition, partly through the bafe Cowardice artl | v (•„" of its Governour and his Alfociates, and partly on Account of a Mutiny that rendered fome Officers, one Captain in particular, whole Name was Alexandre d'Hwiojfja, in 1672. had railed to dilpirit the Garrifon and the Inhabitants. All the Officers and Soldiers were made Prifoners of War, except Colonel Van Zanten, the Com- mandant, Lieutenant Colonel Kopes, Major of the Town, his Son, fome other Officers, and Captain d'lliniojja, Ringleader of the Sedition, who had Liberty to withdraw whitherfoever they would with their Arms, Baggage, and Domeftics. Some time after thefe Officers, giving themfelves up to the Army of the States, commanded by the Prince of Qrwige, Captain d'lliiiicjja's Head was chopt off by Order of a Council of War -, the Commander and the Town- Maior were degraded with Ignominy, banilhed out of all the United Proiinces, ?.nd their Eltates were confiscated. So little was inch bate Cowardice ap- prehended in Holland, that ten or twelve Days alter this Shameful Capitula- H 2 tion, 5 i TRAVELS 1705. tion, Wagers were laid at Amfterdam, ten and twenty to one, that Wefel was [• 8- ftill under the Command of the States-General. "We have no more to add but that the Roman Catholics have a Church here, in which they have the free Exercife of their Religion ; the Lutherans another •, and the Calvinijls the two principal ones. The Jews too have here a little Synagogue.. So foon as we got without the Gates of Wefel, we faw on the other Side Brick It °f tne Rhine the fmall Town of Burick upon this River » a pretty ftrong fo taken Place, defended by five Baftions, four Half-moons, and a Horn-work. Yet Ly the j n 1672. the Maifhal Turenne took it in four Days after opening the Trenches, f '/l" /j m ar "d made the Garrifon Prifoners of War. 'Tis true there were not, Officers included, above 300 Men in it, and it would require as many thoufands to hold it out :• Burick is likewife in the Dutchy.of Cloves. The Ri- About a Quarter of a League from Wefel we eroded the IAppe. It is a ver Lippe, narrow River, not above fifty Paces in Breadth, where we paffed it in a Ferry- f . u - s Boat, but it is rapid, and in the Winter overflows its Banks in a furprifing Manner. Its Source is in Weflphalia above Lipfta, in the County de la March, and it flings itfelf into the Rhific near to Wefel. Not long after we pafled thro' Djng/aitn, Dinglaken, a little Town, belonging to the King of Pruffia, where there is a fine I own and Cattle, flanked by feveral ftrong Turrets, the ordinary Refidence of the Bailif whom that Prince nominates for the Adminiftration of public Affairs. iltrg, Oppofite to it, at the Diftance of one League, is Rhinberg, one of the i.an:c- Hank-Towns, fituated upon the Border of the Rhine, and that formerly be- '•"■ longed to the Eledtor of Cologne. The Spaniards having furprifed it, Frede- entSiests wr ' P r ' nce of Orange befieged it in 1633. and was not able to recover it to the States, but by a long and coftly Siege. This Town is an Entry of Im- portance, covering the Dutch Frontiers. fo For- It is well fortified, all the Points of its Bafcions have Ravelins at their tificatienf. /^ n gi cS flanked, and its Gates are in the middle of Courtaines, and defended by oppofite Baftions : Belides its Ditches are full of Water, and the River co- vers it on one Side. Yet Dr. Burnet fays, the Fortifications of Rhinberg are aTrifle. Lexis XIV. inverted it the 2d of June 1672, and this Place which was in a Condition to hold out two Months againft a much greater Army than that which then attacked it, was furrendered without firing a Cannon, by the Treachery of ihi Baron dfOjfcry, Colonel of a Regiment of Horfe, and AfTo- ciate to the Commander, Colonel Van Baffum. Indeed it cofl him dear, for he was beheaded fome time after by the Prince of Orange's Order, and the Sentence of a Council of War. Qr/oj. Four Leagues from Rhinberg, is the Town of Orfoy, fmall, but well for- tified, being defended by five good Baftions, and as many Ravelins : How- ever the King of France took it at Dilcretion, in 1672, after it had flood a few Volleys of Cannon. 'Twas the getting fb eafy Pofleflion of thefe Towns, the Barriers of Holland, and of the Paifage of the Rhine near Tolhuys, fo ill maintained by the Count de Manbas, which put it into the Power of the French 3 J o through Holland. 53 to make themfelves Matters of the Provinces of Guelderland, Utrecht and Over- i7°S- yffel, in lefs than fifty Days. Sf^L^i. Towards the Evening we paffed the Roer, anciently called Rura, a narrow ^ oer a but deep River, which takes its Rife alio in IVefiphalia, and runs into the fmall Ri- Rhine at Duijburg. I have very little to lay of this Place, where there is ver - nothing remarkable, but that it is the Teutoburgium of the Romans. Some ^ SI ^*' Authors have faid, that it was at this Place that the Franks or French, under Town, their King Chilian, croffed the Rhine, in their Incurfion into Gaul. It like- and its wile is in the Duchy oi'Cleves ; and it appeared to us very ill built, theHoufes Dcfcr|, P- being molt of them low and of a mean Look, and the Streets very dirty ; yet tlon ' there is an Univerfity here, which is frequented by a large Number of Stu- dents, who walk through the Streets in their Morning-gowns, as thofe of Leyden and Utrecht. Here the Roman-Catholics have the free Exercife of their Religion, as in all the orher Towns of this Duchy, by Virtue of a Treaty between the Elector Palatine, and the Elector of Brandebowg, upon Condition that the Former fhould grant the feme Liberty to the Calvinifts, or the Reformed in general, in the Duchies of Berg and Juliers. Let me jufl add, that this Town is leis than IVefel by a Third, tho' Mr. Mijjon (ays, thefe two Towns are equal in Bignefs. The firft is only encloied by a fingle Wall, without any other Fortifications. Baronius relates, that a Council was held in it for the Reformation of the Ecclefuftics, in 927. About a League's DHtance from DuiJbourg,viz entered into a fpacious Fo- reir, which it coft us a long while to crofs. I took Notice of feveral empty The Placs Spaces in it, and a Number of little round Places like Tombs, and a good where it is deal of Morals. An Ecclefuftic who happened to dine with us at IVefel had J)) ?^' laid, that before we got to Dujjcldorp, wc fhould pais through the Wood "ferJww where the Learned imagine Quinlilius Varus, (whole Death Horace laments) defeated in the XXIVth Ode of the 2d Book, was cut to Pieces, with three Roman by Anm- Legions, and the Auxiliary Troops of their Allies, by the Valiant Anninius "'"■'■ Prince of the Cherufci. As Hiitory takes Notice, that this General was furprifed and routed in a marfhy Foreft, this is probably the Place where that Defeat happened. The Learned Berlins, in his Adverfaria, fays pofi- tively that it was in Saltu Teutobergenfi. However that may be, it is hardly poffible to read of the Confternation -f".?^"' with which this Lofs {truck Augujlus, and the Extravagancies it made him ^{^'^ commit, without having a very bad Opinion of his Courage and military n o Cou- Capacity. 'Tis true that before this he had run away in certain Engage- rage, ments : Mark Antony reproached him with having turned his Back in a very fhameful Manner, at the firft Battle that was fought before Madena. Ac fine paludamento equaque, pojl biduum demiim apparuijfe. And at the famous Battle of Philippi , againft Brutus and Caffius, did not he let his Camp be forced, and did he not with great Difficulty lave himfelf by running into the Wing which Mark Anthony commanded ? Caflris exutus, vix ad Antonii cornu fuga evafil,. fays Suetonius in his Life. I can forgive him this Weaknefs and Timidity while he was but the young Ofiavius, that is, raw and unexperienced ; but at a riper Age, and when he- was 54 TRAVELS was Matter of the whole World, that the News of his having loft three Le- Feb. 9 . io- gjon<:, which did not amount to twenty thoufand Mai, in the extreamefl iT^iuo ^ rt °f Germany, fhould have terrified him ro fuch a Degree, that he not only countable filled Rome with Troop?, as if Arminius had been at its Gates, and made as Behaviour many Vows to the Gods, as any filly Woman could, have done in Danger ; iV^fi • but was even fuch a Fool as to run about in his Chamber for three Month?, t.'irte Le- anc ' knock his Head againft the Door of it, crying out like a Madman ? gions. Quintilius Varius, rejlore me my three Legions ! Thefe are fuch ridiculous Meannefle?, that one cannot pofTibly pardon them in Auguftus, who in many Confpiracies againft his Life, and in feveral other Cafes of imminent Dan- ger had fhewn a grood deal of Prefence of Mind and Refolution. In truth one could fcarcely believe it, did not the Writers of his Life, Sueton in particular, lb poffitively aver it. Adeb conjlern.uum ferunt, fays he, ut per continues, men/i's, barbd cdptlkque fubmijjo, caput interdhn foribtts illideret, vociferans Quintilii-are ! redde L"giones. Forever afterwards he bemoaned yearly the Varus re- Day of this Defeat, with Tears and molt extraordinary Grief, markably Horace, as I have already faid, lamented the Death of Varus, in a very fine mentoned Ode •, but it was in the Quality of Friend. Virgil likewife makes honourable • ,°. ra ' r , mention of the fame Quint Hi us Varus, in his iixth Eclogue. and / ngil. ^ ° Nunc ego (namque fuper tibi erttnt, qui dicer e laudes Vare, tttas cupiant, C5? trifiia condcre Bella) Agreftem tenui meditabor arundine Mujam. Non injujfa cano : Si quis I amen hr°s- where he has a very gay Court. The Grand-Mafter of the Teutonic Order •, ^'' '?' *° the Bifhop of Brejlait, Co-adjutor to the Bifliop of Mayence ; and the Bifliop of •^- v ^ m j Augsbourg. D v s s e l - To come to the Elector himfelf : This Prince is of a middle Stature, "?**• fquare built, has a wide large Mouth, and his Under-lip very thick and ra ^ e ia ' turned up. His Name is John William, and he is about 46" Years of Age. He is a very courteous, affable Prince, not of a very equal Temper, however, j| e j s ea fi. being fo ealy as to be the Dupe of the firft Rogue that has the Courage to lyimpofed put upon him, efpeciaily in Matters that he imagines may contribute to his u P on b y Grandeur, for he is ambitious beyond all Bounds. Knave-. At prefent he is beiet by an Italian Jefuit in difguife, whofe Name is Count dclla Torre, a great Projector and Wheedler, who promifes no lefs than Mountains of Gold, that is, as many Millions as one can wifh for. But in the mean while till thefe Millions come, the Jefuit is well lodged, has a fine Coach and a good Table, and which is more, has already fingered confidera- Common ble Sums of the Elector's Cafh : So that the Elector mult in all Likelihood t ], f e wJl0 wait a little longer with Patience for the promifed Treafurc, and Monfieur pretend to the Chymilt may happen to end his Days in the Bottom of a Dungeon. 'Tis n i ake the ordinary Exit of fuch Impoftors. Gold ' Qui fcignant de chercher la Pierre bien aimee * * philofo* A V Art de convertir Or, Argent, en fumee, pher's Et montrant a des Sots a fondre le Metal, Stone - Les mate au grand galop mourir a I'Hopilal. Ce Fou quon pent nommer Empereur de la Lwie, Leur promet du Grand-Oeuvre une grojfe Fortune ; Sur fa parole on fouffle, {7°v A fine Portrait of his Mafter Rubens, and his Wife in one Picture ; and his jf" " t0 own Portrait. A Nativity by le Brun, and St. Leonard in Prifon by him like- v_^iO wife. Twelve Pieces of Teniers. An Ecce Homo, and four other excellent Duss el- Performances of Schalck a famous D«/v/?, with Jofeph of Arima- thea, and the three holy Matrons, by the fame Hand ; which is an exquifitely fine Piece. Four Portraits of the Elector, and three of the Electrefs, ena- melled Work, curioufly finifhed by a Sivifs named Arfmg. Among a great Varietj of Ivory- Work, I took notice of the following as the moft oblerv- able. A Crucifix all of one Piece, three Foot high, by Bethel, a famous Sculptor of Augsbeurg ; another of a Foot and a half, by an Italian Carver : St. Paul's Converfion, by Albert Durer, who excelled in Sculpture as well as in Painting. A Cain and Abel, by an Italian ; the Battle of the Centaurs and the Lapith*, by the fame Mafter. All thefeare admirable for the Work- manfhip, being extreamly delicate. Defctip- Thus I have named every Thing that is moft curious and remarkable at buffclderp. Fiujjeldcrp. This Town is the Capital of the Duchy of Berg, and takes its Name from a large River, which, after running thro' a great Part of this Town, empties itfelf into the Ditches of the Caftle, and from thfnce runs in- to the Rhine. It was but a Village a little Time ago •, but now it is a Town of confiderable Bulk, in which, however, the Houfes are generally but ill built, and the Streets badly paved. There are no Chairs or Coaches to be hired here, which is a great Inconvenience to Strangers. The Caftle in ■which their Highneffes have refided ever fince the French demolifhed that of Heidelberg, is a very old Building, fpacious, but in the antiquated Gothic Tafte. It ftands upon the Border of the Rhine, and commands a very beauti- ful, extenfive Profpefl of the River, and of the Country on the other Side. The Apartments are not regular, but fumptuoufly garnifhed, efpecially that of the Elector, and the Hall of Audience. This City has no Suburbs. Its Fortifications are pretty good, and well kept up. But as to a Citadel, I af- fure you there is none here, tho' Mr. Mijfon has affirmed there is, faying, that it commands the Town and the Rhine. Its Go- At DuJJeldorp there is a Council of State, a Privy- Council, and a Chan- vtrnment, C ery, in which civil Caufes of all Sorts are determined. We were af- „° e8 rioufly. In 1474. he was forced to raife the Siege of Nuys after it had lafted more than a Year. In 1476. he was thoroughly routed, and loft two power- ful Armies at Granfon and at Morat in Switzerland; and after having invert- ed Nanci in Lorrain twice, he was totally defeated, and killed in the fecond Siege by Duke Rene, affifted by the Germans and the Swift, the Eve of the Feaft of the Kings in 1476. Yet all thefe Towns, the lad only excepted, had no other Fortification but a fimple Wall and Ditch. Let u= however re- turn to Nuys. And in truth I could not learn that there was any one Thing in or about it worthy of our feeing. It was taken and retaken feveral Times in the Wars of the Swedes, and their Allies in Germany. After we had paffed the little Town of Zons, on the left we flopped at Z„,,.and Dormagen, to dine and change Hoifes. This Place is juft half Way between £>«"«-»£«*- Didfeldorp and Cologne, and belongs to the Elector Palatine, as Duke of Berg, as does Zons likewife. Half a League thence we paffed thro' another Town called Worringhen, depending upon the Elector of Cologne. It is totally dilfnantlcd, and has no other Marks of its ever having been a City, but two very ruinous Gates at its two Extremities. The Country about it is very 1 fine, TRAVELS fine, which made me enquire why they did not rebuild its Walls. To which Queftion it was anfwereti, that trie Prince was very indifferent about it, and the Inhabitants were to impoverifhed by the prefent War, that they were not in a Condition to do it at their own Expence. At laft we arrived at Co- logne about four o'Clock in the Afternoon. C:.oy:e. We fpent the two firfl Days, after our Arrival at Cologne, in making Vi- fi:s, and delivering our Letters of Recommendation. 10. The Houfe we lodged in (landing upon the Border of the Rhine, and the "■8 Town of Duils being jufl oppofite on the other Side of the River, we could ^ ' f;e from our Windows vaft Numbers of People pafs it every Moment, upon a Flying-bndge, as it is called here, going or returning to that Borough. The Whim llruck us to go too after Dinner. This Flying-bridge, which I fhould rather chufe to call a Aiding or running one, is very well contrived, and is fufficient for carrying over a Company of Cavalry at one Time. It is held by large flat Boats, fo well belayed, and made fo fall with Ropes and Iron-chains, that it is impofRble they can be loofened, and there are five or fix Boats of a Ids Size lying in a ilraight Line at Anchor, in the Middle of the River at equal Diflances from one another, and two Mufquct-fhot above the Bridge : Two ftrong Cables are fixed to thefe Boats, the Ends of which pals thro' Pullies, fattened at the Top of Polls, fixed within this Bridge, and make it when let loofe tack and veer, merely by the Current of the Water, without any need of Rowing, or any other working, except Steering. The Refident of Holland here aflured us, that the continual PaiTage by this Bridge brings in to the Chapter of the Cathedral a Revenue of above ten thoufand Crowns a Year. Daitt, a Further, Duiis is not a Part of Cologne, as the Bifhop of Saliflmry, Mr. fmall MiJJon, and fome others have laid ; it has no Manner of Dependence upon it ; Town b ut holds folely and entirely of the Elector, to whom it belongs. It is a piti- satnft Co- f l, l Borough, fcarcely worth feeing. The Houfcs are built of Pieces of Timber, hgm. intermixed with white Clay, and the few Streets it has are extrcamly filthy and ill paved ; one fees more Swine than Men in this Town : Three fourths and more of the Inhabitants are Jews ; and thofe crafty Ifraelites, who fludy above all Things Matters of Lucre, and are very fubtle and refined Plodders in that Article, make no Scruple to take the Trouble of fattening Herds of thefe unclean Bealls which their Law forbids them to eat, in order to fell them at an exorbitant Price to Chriftians who like that Food, and eat it without any Fear of polluting themfelvcs. There are no Churches in this little Town ; but a Convent of BenediSIins, and a parochial Church, fituated upon the Brink of the River. I am not a little furprifed that the Children of St. Benoit, who are fo opulent and delicate, fhould have cholen to build a Convent in fo dis- agreeable a Place, and amidfl that Spawn of Malbujalcm . When one is at Duils he may fee very diflindlly the Situation of Co- logne along the River. It not a little refembles that of London ; that Part, I mean, lying along the River- fide from Wcjlminjler- Abbey to the Bridge, through Holland. 65 IVk';," 1 little ! :; o:id ir. There is a very large Church in th.it Part of this 1705-. Ci y which refembles Wefindnfier^ and a little lower fame Edifices whii h ;'-'' ' ' '■ have fomewhat the Air of White-hall, before it was burnt : There are q„7o i old Walls like thofe of the Savoy ; a fort of Somerfet-houfe, and other fpacious , ! B lildings not unlike thofe of the Temple, formerly the Refidence of the Erg- peftofthis lifh Templars, before that famous Order was exterminated under falfe Pretexts^ Ct y. c0m - by the I': trig :es of Pope Clement V. and oi Philip the Handfome, King of tnat f Fr,&nce, in order to get PoffefTion of their Wealth. All the-fe Buildings are Lmufu. at almoft the lame Distances one from another upon the Rhine, as thofe of London we have juil mentioned are upon the Thames, and the Cathedral litre is ficuated almoft juil as St. Paul's there. To Day we payed a Vifit to the famous Saint Urfida and her eleven thou- St. Vrfula, fand Maidens all of them of as noble Blood as Hugh Capet and his Defendants. hef cI v t -n Geofrey Arch-deacon of Monmouth, and afterwards Bifbop of St. Afcph, a \ : ' ir u .''" ld Writer in the 12th Age, fays this Urjula was only Daughter to Dionnoth King and thei of Cornwall ; that Hie was fent when very young, from Great into Little- Hiflory. Br; aift, to be Wile to Conm-Meriadec King of Bretagne, along with her eleven thoufand Companions who were tobe married to as many Knights of that Country. You would perhaps be forely put to it at prefent in your Illand to find as many Virgins, not only among the Nobility, but even though you fhould be allowed to pick and choole among the Commons too, unlefs you took them at an Age for which there needs no Cautionry. However that be, thefe Eleven thou- land Maids and their Conduiftrefs Urfuhi, inftead of landing in the Country where they were foon to ceafe to be fuch, entered, fays their Hiftorian, into the Mouth of the Rhine, and came up as far as Agrippma, now called Cologne. It was not furely the Road to Little Britain, nor the ihorteft Way to their de- figned E.fpouials, and their Pilots muft have been TipbySs and PalinuruSs in the backward Senfe. Unfortunately for thefe poor Ladies, they encountered an Army of the They we're Huns, who held the Part of the Emperor Gratian againft the Tyrant Maxi- a'' mur- mus in Gaul. Thofe Barbarians, worfe than Men-eaters, maffacred without de ' J'- 7 Pity all thefe Virgins, with their Leader Urfula, and that becaufe the poor rius ,"pj'j_ Innocents chofe rather to part with their Lives than grant the fm-allelf. Fa- pic, and your to thefe Ruffians, a very hot falacious Gang. Miracle, doubly miracu- n <« defil- lous, would the good Homenas, Bifhop* of Papimania have cried out,that eleven ( f * thoufand and one, all young Girls, fhould have fallen into the Hands of brutal j. \^~. Soldiers, who oftener aim at the Honour than the Lives of Maids, and not one of fo great a Number lofe her Gloves in fuch a Scuffle ! I fancy your modern Britijb LafTes would think oftener than once if they fhould happen to be caught in the fame Manner, and rather than be maffacred, do like the fair Alacielle, Bride to the King of Garba, who palled thro' eight different Hands before fhe fell into the right ones, and that purely out of com- panion to her Lovers : And her Generality met with the Reward it merited, fince after having ferved a laborious Apprenticefhip under eight different Mailers, the King of Garba her Bridegroom received her as found untouched Goods, that is,for as unviolated and pure a Maid as ever came into the World and imagined, as Fontaine, who has made a very line Talc Numb. II. K of 66 TRAVELS COLOCM Error? cf Several hors, concern- ing tl.e;e Virgins. 1 705. of this Adventure, tells us, that he had given her the firft LeiTons of Love : March 10. How many Brothers has this good King oiGarba in the World ? But let us return to our Eleven thoufand Virgins. The Arch-deacon of Monmoittb places this Event in the Year 3S3 ofChrift. If he be right, Mr. Mijj.n muft be wrong, for he makes it to have happened in the Year 238. Old Jacobus de Vcragir.e Arch-bifhop of Genoa, and Petrus de Natalibus BUhop of Aquileia fpeak or it in their golden Legend*, as happening under the Reign of Dioclefian, and make Urfula Daughter of a King of Scotland whom they ft : le Maurus, a Name not to be found in the Chronology of the Scotifi Kings : Other Legend-Compilers place this Event in the Year 254 under Decius : Others, in the Beginning of the fifth Cen- tury, in the Reign of Arcadius and Honorius ; and others in the Time of Aitila that Mailer- fcourge of God, who plagued the World about the Middle of the fifth Age. The Sieur de Juigne Author of an 1 iiftorical Dictionary in Quarto, is one of the later Gal:.. Me lays, that Urfula Daughter of the King of Great-Britain, went out of her Native Country with eleven thouland Virgins her Companions, to efcape the Fury or the Saxon Idolaters, and that de- figning to go into Little Britain, they were driven to the Coaft of Ger- many, taken by the Pagans, and carried to Cologne to Aitila King of the Huns, by whole Orders they were martyred, in the Year of our Salvation 453. How many Abiurdities in a few Lines for one who pretended to be a Chro- nologift ! In the firft Place, he is the only Author who makes Urfula a Daughter of the King of Great-Britain. In the next Place, it is abfurd to fpeak of her leaving Britain to avoid the Fury of the Saxons, fince all Hiftory or Legend- writers tell her Story as having happened long before the Saxons made them- felves Mafters of that Iiland : And to conclude, it is equally abfurd to fay they were brought to Cologne to Aitila King of the Huns, by whofe Order they were put to Death, in 453 of the Chriitian ./Era, fince that King went out of Pannonia with an Army of 500000 Men, and pillaged a great Part of the higher Germany, but did not pierce fo far as Cologne, where he never was y for after having deftroyed Augfhurg and fomeother Towns, he went intoG<7«/and was routed there in the Catalaumc Fields by sEtius, a Roman General, Meroiiee King of the French, zn&TheudoricYimgofahvViJigotbs, in the Year ofChrifi^i •, after which having levied another Army, he went t© wreck his Vengeance on poor Italy, of which he burnt the greateft Part, and never returned to Germany. But all this Time I have not reflected how you will laugh at me, for giv- Xlany Ab ing you fo ferioufiy the different Opinions about a Story which you and your Surdities in Sceptic Friends believe no more of than of Fairy Tales. I know that with this Siory. t h e learned Mis. deLaunois and de Valois, both of them very good Catholics, you treat thefe Legends as idle Fables, and look upon the Princefs of Corn- •wai widi her eleven thoufand Companions as fo many imaginary Saints, and by confequence Counterband. I grant that the venerable Bede, that famous Anglo-Saxon Do&or, who wrote the Ecclefiaftical Hiftory of the Britons and Englijh, and died ami. 735, aged 106, fays not one Word of this Event, too memorable through Holland. 67 memorable to have been pafied in Silence by him, had it been true, or fo much 1705. as poffible : And that the good Monk Ufuard, who lived in the Beginning M "' *_'°- of the Ninth Century, only lays, that thefe Virgins were a great Number ; and CoToTni' that Geoffroy and Monmouth and Sigebert a Monk of Gemblours, ( Authors thawn for Fable-mongers, who lived in the 12th Century) were the firft knowho fixed the Number to eleven Thoufand. Geoffroy took thefe Latin Words in a Martyrology, SS. Urfuta iS Ximil- Oii^fn of lia V. M. for SantJ.tUrfula & undecim millia V. M. without dreaming that t!l,s l:,, >' Ximiltia was the proper Name of one Virgin Martyr. The other was de- ^ IK ' ceived by this Roman Cypher found upon an ancient Tomb, XI. M. V. that is to fay, Eleven Martyr Virgins. This the poor Monk Sigebert took for undeeim millia Virginum. You won't fail to add to all this, that it is falfc, chat ever the County of Cormval had the Title of a Kingdom, either in the Time of the ancient Britons, or when the Romans were Mailers of Great-Britain, or even during the famous Saxon Heptarchy ; fo that Dionnolb, pretended King of Cornwall, and Father of S. Urfuli, is a mere Chimera, together with his pre- tended Daughter and her Eleven thoufand Companions. To this I aniwer, that if this Fact be not true, a Bilhop of St. Afaph, two learned Monks, two Ita- lian Archbifhops, and many others, would not have given it out for fuch ; in fine, Father Crombach, a German Jefuit, hath taken the Trouble of writing a large Volume in Folio, to prove the Truth of that Hiitory, which fo many Millions of Catholics believe with obedient Faith ; and thele Virgins are in the Martyrology and in the Roman Calendar, and their Feaft is celebrated in the Church yearly. In the Church dedicated to them in this City there is a Chapel, the Walls Church of of which are adorned with fome Rows of Buffs gilded ; and with fotne St - Vr/ula, Shrines, in which are preferved the Heads of many of thofe Virgins; the an ( ^ eI ' c ' ;J whole is garnifhed with a rich Crimfon Velvet, and a Gold Stuff embroider- ofthehoiy ed with Pearls and Jewels, Above all this there is a Tapeftry of their Bones, Virgins. among which I obferved fome of Children, of five or fix Years old ; which Circumftance would almoft make me doubt of the Truth of the whole Story : But, a celebrated Phyfician of this Place was formerly treated as a Heretic, for having laid, that there were among them two or three Bones of large Maftif-dogs : Having boaftcd that he could prove this beyond all Contradiction, he was condemned to pay a confklcrable Fine, and banifhed out of the Diocefe of Cologne. T'antum Relligio potuit fuadere malorum. They (hewed us upon the Altar of the Chapel, St. Urfula's Head in a Bjfi S.U of Silver, between that of Conan-Mermdec, King of Bretat; . Bride- IIead - groom, and that of the Principal of her Companions named St. Adelaide. If you afk me by what chance the King of Armoried's, Head came to Cologne ? I will anfwer, that the fame Geoffroy of Monmouth and Sigebert of Gemblours affure us, that this Prince came to this City fome time after the Martyrdom of his Bride, and was likewife put to Death here. And how can you refute thefe Teftimonies? Mr. Miffon makes this Conan-Meriadec, King of England, Mifakct and changes his Name into that of Elhcrus, and fays he was the Hufband of°' * fr > Urfula : And thus by unmaiding this poor Pnncefs of Cornwall, 13th or 14th •**' K > Centuries 6S TRAVELS ■- - Centuries after her D.ath, he degrades her from'the Virgin-Dignity, Which ' ~ fhe holds in all the Legends. For how could fhe be a Virgin if fl ::- Cologne ric ^ ' lin ' e *~ s we ii-ippofe her Hufbahd to have made a Vow of Con til Or to have been what the Parliament of Paris hath lately pro: the Marquis de Gefvres. Under thefe three Heads there is a Golden Cup cut of which Conan-Meriadec u fed to drink, with three of the Thorns i :vi- our's Crown, carefully kept in a Shrine, with a Door of G o' which may lee thefe precious Relicks. And on one fide of the Altar, in a Nici with a Glafs-door to it, we faw a Vafe of Alabafter, which they affifred us was one of thofe our Saviour filled with Water at the Marriage of Can i, i i order to change it into Wine: The Works of St. Denis in France, and a ( bnvent in singers, boaft likewife each of having one of thefe Veflcls ; and perhaps we may learn before we return to Great Britain what is become of the re if. th\ The Church is full of the Tombs' of feveral of thofe Virgins : That of St. * • Urfula is of bl; d whii Marble, about two Palms long, and fix in breadth : Her Statue isof white Marble, it lies at full Length, and is crowned with a Garland of Flowers: At her Feet is a Pigeon, the Image of that re; I • which appeared ten or twelve Days fuccefiivcly upon the Place where this Monument now is, and io diftinguifhed the B.>dy of Urfula, from thofe of her Companions, with which it was before that confounded. This Miracle was attefted to us by an Old Maid who (hewed us thefe Relicks of the holy Virgins. For that fhe was a Maid, fheaflured us, upon our afking why the Commiflion of (hewing thefe Relicks to Strangers was not rather entrtifted to a Man than a Woman ? To which (he very readily replied, That the Church being dedi- cated to Virgins, and the Relicks being chiefly Relicks of pure Virgins, \t was ncceffary that the Care of them fhould be committed to a Maid, that they might not be defiled by an impure Keeper. This lame Virgin afiured \j% that the Earth of this Church will not admit into its Bofom any other Bodies but thofe of holy Martyrs, and for proof of this marvellous Quality fhe fhewed us the Tomb of a certain Duchefs of Brabant, whole Corps being rwice interred there, was as often thrown up again above Ground, and ho- vered in the Air ; fo that they were obliged to faff en her Coffin with Cramp- irons to one of the Pillars of this Church, at the Diftance of two Foot from the Ground, as it now is. Here is the Life rip t ion on the Left-fide. Viventia bis hie fepulta, toties a terra ejeffa, Mod'o hoe Maitfoleo jnclufa Anno 644. And on the Right we find this : Anno 462. Clematius hoc S. Templum rejlanrans, In eo aliorum corporum Sepulturam fub peena vetuit. Our Guide likewife allured us, that the whole Revenue of this Abbey, which muft be very confiderable, without counting the Offerings and Gifts made tl:ro:igh HOLLAND. 69 made by Pilgrims and other devout Perfons, belongs wholly to an Abbefs and 1-C5. fix Canoneffes, who mult be all Counteffes, to do Honour to St. Urfula of^"' f * 12 - Royal Bii tii. In all Probability thefe good Ladies wich this vail Revenue (7J7ocnb live better than the Capuchins, and don't g< t up in the Night as they do to fing Plalms. CHAP. X. Continuation of the Defer ipt ion of Cologne. Ike Church and Hi [tors of iS/.Gsrebn, and Criticifm upon it. The !%uire and Relicks. Church, Convent and Library of the Jefuits. Riches of their Sacrifty. The Church of the Maccabees, and their Hiftory reprefented, and that of the Eleven thou/and Virgin?, The Heads of the Maccabees, and others very curious Relicks. Mifake of Mr. Mifibn concerning a noted Cru- cifix. Strange Story of a Woman buried alive. MANY Authors lay, that the Emperor Conjlantiii the Great embraced Chriftianity, partly becaufe he had ilen in the Air a Crofs with Greek Words upon it, which promifed him Victory againft Maxefitius : And ibme add, that this Apparition to him happened near Autun in Burgundy : Others fay, near to Rome. Bat this Day we have (em a Hiftory in the Collegiate Church of St. Gereon, which gives the lie boldly to all thefe Writers. In the Quire and above the Benches for the Canons, there are feveral Paintings with Latin Infcriptions reprefenting and. explaining the Hiftory of St. Gereon\ The which relate, that this Holy Warriour let out from Thebes in Egypt with 300 Church Horfe-men in compleat Armour, and met in the Way with an Ethiopian™ l\ Prince called Gregory, who was leading 900 Moori/h Cavaliers, all of them Cen Chriftians like himfelf, to Conftantin's Army ; and that being arrived, upon refufing to lacniice to Idols with the reft of the Army, in order to obtain Succefs in the War againft the Gauls, they were all beheaded by Order of Conftantin, and their Bodies thrown into a Well. But it is better to give you fome of the principal Infcriptions, which will let you into the whole Hiftory. Gereon de Thebis venit Ce through Holland. ji him to get himfelf baptifed, in order to his being cured of his Leprofy, and 1705. hindred him from bathing himfelf in the Blood of Infants, as his Sooth- *»«*. 1 *■ layers had counfelled him to do. In truth, I muft own the Nonfenfe dif- cTlog'ne played with fo much Impudence in the Catholic Churches to impofe upon Idiots, inclines me to believe, that all the Legend-writers of the pail Ages were the mod: ignorant Creatures imaginable, eipecially in point of Chrono- logy. Thefe Inicriptions, for Example, place the Martyrdom of St. Gereon and his Companions in the Reign of CmJianHn the Great, in the Year 288 of the Chriflian Mr\ ; yet that Prince did not begin to reign till the Year 312. Of all the Legends concerning St. Urfitla, hardly do two of them agree in the Date of her Story ; and fo it is with Regard to moft others. The Quire in the Church of St. Gereon is tapiitry'd likewife with 900 Heads The Quire of Moorifli Cavaliers, the Companions of the Ethiopian Prince Gregory : They ~ j\ are ranged in little Niches, between each two of which there is carving in Fo- am j its £ e . liage gilded, which Decorations with the Caps of Scarlet Adorned with Pearls, licks. with which every Head is covered, have a tolerably fine Effect. Having tef- tificd to him who (hewed us the Curiofities in this Cnurch fome Surprize, that none of thefe Heads Was bigger than a Child's of 7 or 8 Years old, he told me very ferioufly, that he had heard it often (aid, the Men of thole Times, thofe Gentlemen efpecially of the Ebony-complexion, had not fuch big Heads as Men now-a-days have. Was not this an excellent anfwer to my Difficulty ? I then afked him what became of the Heads of the 300 Horfemen of St. Ge- reon. He replied, that there was no Account of them in the Capitulary of this Chapter, but that the common Tradition is, that they were diitributed thro' the Churches in Cologne, and in other chief Cities ot Germany. The fame Guide mewed us in a Corner of the Church, one of the Pillars Other Re- of the Scaffold on which all thofe holy Martyrs were beheaded : This Pillar is licks. of fine Jafpar, about a Foot in Diameter, and fpotted with Blood in leveral Places. At laft he conducted us into a lbrt of Vault, or fubterraneous Cha- pel, directly under the Quire of this Church, where he fhewed us the Well into which the Corps of thefe blcffed Martyrs (faid he) were thrown by the Emperor Conjiantin's Order : But what is moft marvellous of all, is that thofe of St. Gereon and the Ethiopian Prince Gregory were miraculoufly difcovered fome Y'ears after ftretched out upon a Table of black Marble, no body could tell how, and that they were inftantaneouQy found out to be theirs, though naked and without Heads as well as fiie reft. Here is what we may call an authentic Miracle, and of Jinn Rock which admits of no Conteft, like many of thofe Miracles that have been forged in the Shops of ignorant and preju- diced Monks. Do not go about to chicane and afk me how this Difcovery could be made, smart Re- fince all the Bodies were naked and headlefs : For I will anfwer it was not flerfiorfs done naturally, but miraculoufly ; befules, if you fhould prove fo captious, you u P on them would di ("courage me from toiling you a Thoufand other Marvels I am likely to fee or hear ot in the Courte ot my Travels, which I cannot pretend to ac- count for ? Is it not abfurd to afk a natural Explication of a Miracle ? Take my Advice therefore, and refolve to amufe yourfelf with fuch wonderful Things - T R A V E L S 1 ,s i. ! ite I ) you from time to time, without endeavouring fodi- 3- minifh'thc Marvellous by afkin] Queftio ieir Poffibility; 1 rr ~~~^!'': forgcfc td'tctt fou that we!. the Table of black Marble i i which the B.Kiies ot the two holy Martyrs wore diicovered. Oar Condi. Kkewile informed us rhat the Collegiate Church of St. Gerecn has but io Canons, but a great Number of Chaplains, who enjoy all of them a very plentiful Revenue, for which they have very little to do. We have tliefe lad Days been taken up in feeing, firft of all, the Houle of the Reverend Fathers Jeiliits. One of the good Companions of Jefus received as at the Gate of their College with great Civility, and conducted us forth- with into their Library. I was furprifed to find it lb ill provided: There are very few Books in it, and thole ttware very ill cholen. A Biblia Maxima, and the Councils, are the principal Books in their Collection, nor had thefc been there, it a German Lord, "who refided fometimc in this Town, had not made this College a Pre fen t of them. Theie poor Fathers have no Money to buy Books! All the reft are Scholaftick Trafh, and other fuch old Trum- pery : Our Conductor (hewed us as Curiofuies two Globes 4 Foot in Dia- meter, of Father Coroncl/'s Workmanfhip. 1 wonder how thefe Gentlemen who have given us fuch line Geographical Maps, and have made lb many cu- rious Aftronomical Obfcrvations in Europe and Afia, could put any Value upon the Works of a Babbler, who had the AfTurance toftile himfelf Cofmo- grapher, Hiftoriographer, and Aftronomer of the moil ferene Republic of Venice. Pictures of Before we entered into this Library, we paffed thro' a Hall, where are to 'le^Ge' ^ e ^ cen tne Portraits of the 13 firft Generals of the Company of Jefus : You nerals, and need not doubt that the great Ignatius Loyola is at their Mead, as is moft fir> Hiftory ofing. I could not fee the Picture of this brave Captain, without calling to Ignatius Mind the Wound he received in his Knee at the Siege of Pampehme, which oyoa ' was the Occafion of his ever dreaming of quitting the Vanities of the World, * Mr. ?e-^° found a Society of Angels on Earth. It likewife brought back to my Re- tii, Advo-membrance, the Indignity with which a Satyrical Poet ( * a good Catholic cate of the indeed, yet he was burnt in the Greve at Paris, for having wrote a Sa- , tyr againft the Virgin Mary) fpeaks of St. Ignatius and his Succefibrs, in his merit Paris. Paris Ridicule. I. Verfes of Ldchons ici notre Eguillette a French En memoire de ce Saint Fou, P° et U P™ Qui fe fit cajjer le genou fheTefrits Pour av0 * r ^ a j am ^ e m ^ eux fa te '■ Cetoit un platfant Roffignol Que ce Patriarche Ejpagnol, Et que fes Heritiers font rogues ! D'ou vient qu'etantfi triomphans, lis jont devenus Pedagogues, Et Fetfeculs de nos Enfans ? II. Je through HOLLAND. 7 March 1 :. 14 II. Je ue ffaurois dormer croiance A toutes fortes de difccurs, Co log n e j^e fft'i que la Vertu toiijours Fut fujette a la Medifance ; Qu'ott les nomme Affaffins de Rois, Marcbands de Bkds, Marcbands de Boss, El preparateurs d'Antimoiue : Pour inoi, j'excufe leur penchant , Si V habit ne fait pas le Moine, Le vial ne fait pas le mechant. Befides thefe Portraits of the firft 13 Generals of the Order, there are like- wife the Pictures of fix Cardinals, who were Jefuits before they were honoured witli the Purple. Palavicini and Bellarmin, you may be furc, are not forgor. When wewentout otthe Library we croffed a Garden, which mull be very Defcrip- pleafant in Summer, and entered into the Church. It is undifputably one of 1 ! " oi the fineft in Cologne, and the moft regular. The Building is very lofty and well church, pierced, and agamft the Pillars fupporting the Ceiling, there are Statues of the twelve Apoftles, and of many other Saints, big as the Life. The Pul- pit deierves Attention, on Account of the Sculptures with which it is adorn- ed. Before the principal Altar hangs a Lamp of Silver, which is about fix Foot in Height. The Reverend Father who conducted us made two ftrong Fellows Jet it down, that we might have a better Sight of it. 'Tis certain, that this gigantic Lamp is of exquifite Workmanfhip. The Figures of Je- fus Cbrijl, and of the five wife and five foolifh Virgins in the Parable are reprefented very naturally, with fuch Delicacy that it is a Pleafure to lee them. This Lamp colt an immenfe Sum, not to this College, but to the Elector of Cologne Maximilian-Henry, who made them a Prefent of it. I law but one tolerable Picture in this Church ; but if it be wanting in Riches of Pictures, their Veftry is filled with more folid Wealth. The Silver Plate in 5J " it is prodigious for the Riches as well as the Quantity : An Inventory of it would however be tirtfome. I fliall only take Notice to you of fomc of the Ornaments of the Altar, which are extremely fumpruous and nugnificenr. One Antipendium of an Altar is wholly covered with an Embroidery or Gold-wire and Pearls. Another is enriched with vail Numbers of Rubies, of which not a few are very large. Another is of mafi'y Silver exceedingly heavy, containing in Bafs-relief, the Hiflory of the Affumption of the holy Virgin, with St. Ignatius on one Side, and St. Francis Xavier on the other : Another alfo of malty Silver, with a Border of Gold covered with Pearls; another a Gold Brocurd with Pearls and Emeralds, among which there are many of great Value ; another of Crimfon embroidered with Gold, very heavy and ornamented with carved Figures of Jefus Cbrijl and Jofepb on one Hand, and the Virgin on his other ; the good Ignatius and Xavier are here too •, thefe Gentlemen thrufl themfelves in every where, and herein are Numb. II. L compkarly T R A V E L S compleatly imitated by their Succeflbrs. This laft Piece is of exquifite Work- manfhip, and of a very extraordinary Size, and it is only employed to adorn ^~" \ the great Altar, on certain more folemn Feflivals which are reprefented upon it. I ihall not trouble you with mentioning an innumerable Quantity of Branches and Candle-flicks, Bulb, Vales, Luflres, and other Silver-plate, there would be no coming to an End of fuch a Detail : B;t I will juft tell you, that one can hardly fee any where a Sacrifly more richly furnifhed with Chalices, Pattens Cups,Pla;cs,Cruets, and other Urenfils for Mafs, all of Gold, and enriched with precious S'ones. Their Re- D tzled with feeing fo much Riches in one Place, We left the Sacrifly to go fcclorv. to ihe Refectory, which is very large and well wainlcoted : The Ceil- ing is adorned with Sculptures and Carvings. It is hung all round with Pictures, exhibiting the principal Events of our Saviour's Life. Thefe Pic- tures are but indifferent, though painted by Jejuits ; yet they not a little adorn the Refectory. While we were confidering them, our Conductor ordered a Collation to be brought, which confifted of very good Things, accompanied with excellent lihenifij : Thefe Fathers feldom have any thing that is bad. While we were at this Repafl, he queflioned us very foundly about the Affairs of Great- Britain, fomctimes about one thing, and fomrtimes about another, but chiefly about King James and his Son, whom he called Exiles for the Catholic Faith. Multa fuper Priamo rcgitans, fuper Hectore multa. Not one Word of Queen Anne his Daughter, but a great deal about the late Mary and King William III. who, laid he, turned their Father and Mother out of their own Houfe by the Shoulders. We made the beft Returns we could to thefe Interrogatories, and parted in all Appearance good Friends. M„rJ, We have likewife been to vifit the Church of the Maccabees, and took 15,16. Notice firft of all upon the Gate on the Out-fide, of a Picture reprefenting CI urch of Salomone Mother of thole Martyrs, trampling under her Feet Antiochus Epi- the M.ic- phanes. She holds her feven Sons crowned with Laurel under her Gown, ,-./,, 1, an j f our on one Side, and three on the other^ under it is this Infciiption. its Piflurea D IV A parens VII na.'is Strata SaLoMona tyranno, VICtrIX oVans. Give any Interpretation to this you pleafe. Their Miflory is painted upon the Wall in a Corner of this Church in Eight different Pictures, with thefe Words: S. Saloinotie cam VII. filiis fuis Maccabeis in fummo Altare honorifce Confcrvantw. If you afk me how all thefe Saints came to Cologne: I anfwer according to the 1 .egend, that the Emprefs Helen, having llattered herfelf to efpoufe in fecond Marriage the famous Charlemagne, fent their Bodies to that Prince, who built this Church to their Memory. The Hiflory of the Martyrdom of the Eleven thoufand Virgins is like- wife painted on feveral Parts of thefe Walls ; and very near to this Church is through Holland. 7.5 is a Well, into which, .they tell us, the Blood of thefe Virgins wdspeured l ~°~- when they were killed, and that the Blood is llill here ; but we could not ^J fee it, for a Bilhop who flourished about a thou (and Years ago had (hut (j 0L0CNB it up, becaufe it made a Nciie that deafened People when they looked into \ it. And can one treat the Story of the Virgins afttr all this as a Fable? domofthe The Religious to whom this Church belongs and who follow the Order cf e , ' " , St Bennet, pretend, contrary to Tradition among the Urfulines, that tic Prin- \ . cefe Urjuhi was maffacrcd on the Spot where their principal Altar ftands. rerreienc- Before this Altaris the Tomb of an Arch-bifhop of Hungary named Pajle-'^- lafms, who was, laid our Guide, chief Almoner and Confeflbr to the Princefs Urfula, faid Mais to her every Day, and was martyrised with her and her Companions. Our Guide next fhewed us the Heads of , r.he Maccabees, that are kept in The the Tabernacle of the principal Altar, which is of Purple embroidered with Heads of Gold. We mounted a little Ladder to have a nearer View of thefe holy ']' Heads, and enjoy the Perfume which they lend forth : We were even al- lowed the Fax our to touch them; a Privilege that would not have been • Expref- granted to you Heretics, who treat the Relicks as * common Bones,facred Rags, lions ufed and conjecratel Ordure. Thefe Heads are ranged in the Tabernacle FT- ^y Mr. cutclieon-wife, One, Four and Three ; that of the Mother on the lop, the '^ on ' four Eldeft in the Middle, and the three Younger below. Each has a Crown richly adorned with Pearls, Rubies, and Emeralds. They likewile flic wed us that oi St. Joachim, or Jcakim, Father to the Other co- Virgin Mary, and that of St. Anne her Mother ; a Thorn of our Saviour's r.'°Jf Rc ' Crown three Inches long; a large Tooth from the Undcr-jaw of St. John the Baptilt ; a Bone of St. Andrew's left Ancle ; the Finger St. T/w;w.r thruft into the Side of Jefus Chrift ; St. Jofeph's Scull; the Veil the Virgin Mary was in at our Saviour's Crucifixion, two of her Smocks, and both of them very dirty ; with a little of her Hair inclining towards the Reddilh : The Linen in which St. Laurence was wrapped when he was taken off the Grid- iron, upon which he was roafted by Order of the Emperor Valerian, which is no larger than an ordinary Handkerchief, (b that the Good St. Laurence mult have been of the Pigmy Size, if it was large enough to cover his Body. They like wife fhewed us the Heads of three of St. Urfit!a\ Companions, named St. Daria, St. Julia, and St. Gandcntia. The fir ft has no Scar, the fecond has the Marks of a terrible Blow of a Sabre in the Scull, and on the Middle of the third there is the Point of an Arrow fixed perpendicularly. I faid to our Conductor, that the Iron-point of the Arrow mull (till be in the I lead, and was going to thruft my Finger in to try if I could feel it. But he imme- diately withdrew the Head, affuring me, that the Iron was miraculoufly melted in the Head, as Greafe melts in the Fire. A Miracle indeed ! that a I lead fhould have the marvelous Virtue of melting the Iron, and yet the Wood of this Arrow fhould have continued found and entire for fo many Ages. The laft and moft curious, in my Opinion, of all they fhewed us, is, the entire Body of St. Ur Juki's, Aunt, by the Mother's Side, who was of ;? B ^ y Hkcwile her Governefs. This good Lady was commifiioned to deliver the/u/a'i i, 2 Princefs Aunt". ?6 TRAVELS ' " Princcfs of Cornwall into his I lands who was to be herSpoufe, and was martyr- ^^^_> ifed with her : Her Name was Placidia, I could not but admire the moft edi- E fying Learning of our Guide in Matters of Legend, and his incomparable Memory, that was able to retain the Names of lb many holy Perfons, and their principal Adventures : For when I afked him if this old Aunt was reckoned amongft the eleven thoufand Virgins, he anfwered immediately, there was no doubt on't ; that fhe moft certainly died a Maid, with as much Aflurance as if he had a Certificate in all its Forms, from half a Do- zen fkilful Matrons of that Age. AMiftake Now we dcfired to fee the famous Crucifix, with the Wig in this Church, oi Mr. of which Mr. Miff on fpeaks. " This Peruke, fays he, is truly marvellous in Tm, tc this Refpecl, that it never diminifhes, notwithftanding all the Locks the ins! a not- " Pilgrims, who come here from Hungary, carry off with them." One cd Cruci- would imagine, from his Account of the Matter, that this Peruke was be- fix- lieved here to have a vegetative Quality. But be perfuaded, that the Inha- bitants oi Cologne, as zealous and credulous Catholics as they are, know very well that the Hungarian Pilgrims have not Arms long enough to reach this Peruke ; this wig'd Crucifix having been for more than an Age fixed perpen- dicularly to the Cieling of the Church, which is very high, and confequent- ly beyond the Stretch of the Pilgrims with their Sciffars. Non eft laudandus is, qui plus credit quic audit quam qiue videt. When we told our Guide this Story, he, with all his Belief in Miracles, laughed very heartily at it. We took our Leave of him in the ufual Way, by droping fomething into his Hand. In S-range palling thro' the New Market, we were fhewn a Burgo-mafter's Houfe, S:ory of whofe Wife is faid to have rifen from the Dead after fhe was interred -, and a Woman at tne Windows of the Garret the Figures of the Horfes, and the Valet who bur,ed a- j cnew t ] K j r Mifbrefs fo foon as fhe came to the Gate after her Refurreclion. Mr. Mijjon tells this Story, and thinks it not incredible, fo I need not repeat it. This Reiiirreiffjon, fays he, was owing to the Avarice of a Grave-digger, who opened up the Grave to take a rich Ring off the Lady's Finger with which fhe had been buried. This may perhaps be an Ufage among the Idolaters in Afia. But I doubt if e'er a Cnriftian Hufband would be fuch a Fool as to bury his Wife with a Ring of any Value, even tho' fhe fhould have been ri- diculous enough to have defired it. — However that be, I bought a Print re- prefenting this Miracle. And according to it the Event happened in 1357 ; tho' Mr. Mijjon places it in 1 571. CHAP. XI. The Church and Convent of the Cannes. The Chartreufe. The Injlitu- tion of that Order. The Cathedral. Remarkable Tombs in it. That of the three Kings in Particular. Reflexions on this Story. Con- -» tt TE went next to the Convent of the Cannes, whole Church is the only vent and yy onz zt Cologne, in which the Altar is placed to the Eaft. The Pul- theCar- pic paffes for the fineft in this City. It is adorned with Carvings by two Monks through Holland. y>* Monks of this Order, Twin-brotliers, who are yet alive. From the Church i ;■ we were conduited to a Hall, where a Collation was prefented to us, accord- March 6 ing to the Cuftom of the Country. I took notice of the Anns of England, oQ; GNE and thofe of the Knights, Jenkins and William/on, on two Panes of Glafs in a Window of this Room. Thefe Gentlemen, with other Plenipotentiari , negotiated a general Peace here in 1674: But this Treaty was broken ail at once by the French, on account of the running away with Prince William of Furfienberg their Creature, who died a Cardinal. We went for a Moment likewife into the Church of the CordeUtrs to fee And ^r-h? the Tomb of the famous John Scotus, firnamed the fubtle Doclor. Here are CtrJelim. the two Epitaphs on it. Scotia me genuit ; Anglia me fufcepit ; Gallia me docuit ; Colonia me tenet. The other is in Verfc. tils. Ante ocidos faxum Doilorem comprhnit ingens, Cujus ad interitum facra Minerva gemit. Sifte gradum, Leclor, fulvo dabis ofcula faxo, Corpus Joannis b