PERKINS LIBRARY Duke University E^dre Books J. /3* " '<• *■ -721 7Be$tviption OF MALTA AND GOZO, BY GEORGE PERCY BADGER. Kai £ia< Fior del Mondo is the ardent language of the love of our country, and though Malta, which has received this superlative appellation from its devoted children, is but a rock, yet "a rock is a rock" all the world through ; while the glory of the sky which overlooks Malta, the noble port which indents its rugged margin, as also the peculiarity of its position with regard to neighbouring tracts of the earth, render it altogether a rock singu- larly interesting, and of vast intrinsic importance. The sky, and air, and country of Malta is African ; but its life and civilization is European. And here, whilst we have all the fervid glow of a cloudless boundless atmosphere, — here, where the orange-grove yields its golden treasures, and the rosy grape in all itsjuscious freshness tempts the gazing eye, — we have also, in PREFACE. delightful combination, all the arts, science and purities of glorious Europe, which stretches her enlightened sceptre over all lands. Formerly the bulwark of Christendom against the bloody banner of Islamism and infidility,'and exerting a salutary influence o'er the desolations of Africa, giv- ing also decisive checks to the infamous piracies of the Barbary coast, Malta, now also, in our own times, exerts a stiirnobler, because a moral influence, upon the shores of the Mediterranean, and occupies, under the benign and all-powerful flag of Great Britain, a proud- er attitude than even during the most renowned days of her chivalrous story, under the sovereignty of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. A writer, then, who attempts some illustration of the past and present history of so remarkable a country as Malta, together with the peculiar features of its social and political state, however humble his efforts, or con- tracted his plan, may venture, without the slightest charge of arrogance, to anticipate the good wishes and the support of the public. The chief design has been, in the following pages, to afford to the numerous English travellers, who are con- tinually going to and coming from the Levant, now on pleasure, now on business, and in their route making a PREFACE. shorter or longer stay at Malta, some assistance in the knowledge or investigation of these islands. The late facilities offered by steam-navigation to all the curious and the learned, to make researches in the Mediterranean seas, have greatly increased the number of strangers in Malta ; — as also, the facilities and conveniences, which the generosity of the truly paternal government of Malta has granted to foreign shipping, have equally augmented the concourse of travellers and strangers in this far- famed port. Here travellers may repose after a long voyage at sea. and even attempt the restoration of their health in the case of unlooked-for indisposition; and during their hours of quiet and solitude, they may perhaps be agree- ably occupied with a cursory examination of the things which this brief history points out. The author has confined himself to objects of utility in general, but has not entirely passed over those of ele- gance, of science, and of antiquities. And whatever cre- dit he may receive for his labours, he doubts not, that his intentions will be fairly and indulgently construed. At any rate, this being the first book in the English lan- guage ever attempted, on so limited and portable a scale, in illustration of Malta, he trusts, that if he does not en- tirely succeed in his object, he will have the gratification PREFACE. of having pointed out the way to others, who shall follow him in that path which is always noble and philanthro- pic, — that of making one part of humanity acquainted with another, and of adding to the general stock of the knowledge of the world, by investigating mankind as it exists in its geographical situation, political and social state, and all the peculiarities of its mind and feelings. I PART I. BRIEF SKI OF THE - HISTORY OL- MALTA. HISTORY OF MALTA, FROM ITS EARLY SETTLEMENT DOWN TO THE PRESENT TIME. Preliminary Observations — Settlement of the Phoeni- cians — (i reeks — Carthaginians — Romans — Goths — Emperors of Constantinople — Arabs — Defeat of Emperor s Expedition — Count Roger — Rebel/ion of the A rabs — Emperors of Germany — Kings of A rr agon and Castile — Charles V. of Ger- many — Arrival of the Knights of St. John — Their first acts — Malta besieged by the Turks — Confis- cation of several of the Commanderies — Arrival of the French — Siege of Malta — Dreadful state of the town — Appearance of the British fleet — The French capitulate — Malta ceded to the British Crown. The early history of almost every nation is involved in obscurity, and it would be quite fo- reign to our purpose, to enter into an investigation of the several opinions, which have been advan- ced by different authors, as to the primitive inha- bitants of this island, the origin of its name, its early form and government, and the various natural 4 PHOENICIANS. causes which have operated to reduce it to its present size and shape. We shall content our- selves, by giving the reader a short sketch of what seems to be the most probable, and least fabulous account, of the various settlements formed here by different nations, until it fell into the hands of its present possessors. An ancient author writes concerning this island: " Malta is furnished with many and very good harbours, and the inhabitants are very rich, for it is full of all sorts of artificers, among whom there are excellent weavers of fine linen. Their houses are very stately and beautiful, adorned with grace- ful caves, and pargetted with white plaster. The inhabitants are a colony of Phoenicians, who, trading as merchants, as far as the western coast, resorted to this place on account of its commodious ports, and convenient situation for maritime commerce; and by the advantages of this place, the inhabitants frequently became famous both for their wealth and their merchandise."* From this quotation, it appears, that the Phoenicians were very early, if not the first settlers of this island; and the learned Bochart considers them the same with the Phacicians, mentioned by Homer, generally taken for the aborigines of Malta. * Diod. Sic. Lib. V. v. 1. PHOENICIANS. D Several other quotations from Cicero, and particularly fromHomer, who mentions the island under the name of Ogygia, together with the proceeding, if not decisive proof, go far to estab- lish the early settlement of the Phoenicians in Malta. The argument adduced by some to con- firm this, from the vernacular language of the country, is as altogether unnecessary, as it is uncertain. The several words which have been brought forward as Punic, may all be traced back to an Arabic original; and in fact, the very small knowledge which we have of this ancient lan- guage, hinders us from drawing any satisfactory conclusions from such a comparison. The Rev. Mr. Schlienz, in his late treatise on the "Use of flic Maltese language for the purposes of Edu- cation and Literature," p. 3 — 8, very clearly shows, that we have no certain criterion to guide us in ascertaining the Phoenician character of the Maltese language. In the hall of the Public Library are still pre- served three medals with Phoenician inscriptions, as well as two other monuments of the same language. If I may be permitted to advance the opinion, I should say, that the sepulchral grots in the mountains of Bingiemma, are also remains of the work of this ancient people. Any person who has visited the region of Tyre and Sidon, the * I b GREEKS. early seat of the Phoenician kingdom, and seen those which still exist therein abundance, will be struck at once with the analogy between them, both as to the manner in which they are exca- vated, and the position in which they lie. From the various medals and other monuments which have been found in this island, as well as from the accounts of ancient history, it appears, that the Greeks held possession of it for some time after their expulsion of the Phoenicians. According to Thucydides and Sycophoron,*the arrival of the Greeks in Malta ought to be dated after the siege of Troy, in the first year of the Second Olympiad, 755 years B. C. After that famous expedition, which has immortalized the muse of Homer, part of the confederated Greeks returned to their native country, while the re- mainder sailed for that part of Italy which is called Calabria, where they founded the cities of Cro: >ne and Tarento, and many other colonies. From this, they sailed to Sicily, where they built Syracuse and Agrigenti, and then scattered them- selves over the islands of the Mediterranean. They chased the Phoenicians from Malta, which at that period was called Ogygia, changed the name into Melitas, and established here their own form of government. * See Thuryd. lil>- viii. Sycoph. Cassand. Lin. 1627. CARTHAGINIANS. Cicero (contra Verres, lib. iv.) speaks of the Temple of Juno, belonging to the Greeks at Malta, as being very splendid, and situated not far from the Great harbour. The worship of this goddess, most probably existed here in the time of the Phoenicians, as may be inferred from a medal in the Public Library, by whom she was worshipped under the title of Iside. The learned Abela in his Malta Illustrata, Lib. ii. Not. v. accumulates evidence to prove the domination of the Greeks in this island, and the flourishing state of com- merce during their government. In the year of the world 3620, the Carthagi- nians, who had settled themselves along the nor- thern coast of Africa, and had seized upon seve- ral islands in the Mediterranean, attacked Malta and Sicily under the conduct of Hannibal, and made themselves masters of it. It was, however, not without much effort and bloodshed that they succeeded, as the Greeks were continually send- ing reinforcements from Sicily to the assistance of the island. The conquerors treated the inha- bitants with great lenity, accorded to them the free practice of their own religion and laws, and in a short time, rendered their circumstancesmore flourishing than ever. From several inscriptions, which have been found here, the fact may be established beyond 8 ROMANS. dispute, that this ancient people flourished here at a very early period. A square stone, with an inscription in Punic characters, discovered in a sepulchral cave near the place called Ben Ghisa, on which Sir W. Drummond has written a learned essay, is supposed to mark the burial-place of the famous Carthaginian general Hannibal. This is a curious piece, and one of the largest remains of the Punic language now in existence; and as it helps to ascertain the ancient inhabitants of this island, I think it not improper to insert the translation. " The inner chamber of the sanctuary of the sepulchre ofHannibal, Illustrious in the consummation of calamity , He was beloved; The people lament, when arrayed in order of battle, Hannibal the son of Bar-Melee." To such a thriving condition did Malta arrive during the government of the Carthaginians, that it became an object for the ambitious cupidity of the Roman power, after the termination of the first Punic war. Twice was the island pillaged ; the first time by the Consul Attilius Regulus, and afterwards by Caius Cornelius. Finally, it fell into the hands of the Romans, together with the ROMANS. 9 island of Sicily, under the Consul Titus Sempro- nius, at the commencement of the second Punic war. By order of the senate, Malta was declared a Roman municipality; a prefect was appointed over it, who was subject to the pre tor of Sicily, and Marcus Marcellus was ordered to fortify this port, so important for the defence of Sicily and the whole of Italy. The Romans neglected no- thing in order to conciliate the inhabitants, who were strongly attached to the Carthaginians, by a common origin and language. They respected their laws, encouraged the manufactories which they found established, and particularly that of cotton, which was so renowned, that Cicero in- forms us, it was regarded as a luxury even at Rome. Besides all this, the Maltese people were permitted to coin money in their own name, to govern themselves by their own laws, to admi- nister justice, to enjoy the right of suffrage in the Roman councils, were eligible to any office in the Republic, and permitted to present offerings to Jupiter Capitolinus, a privilege the Romans only granted to their nearest allies. The temple of Hercules and Juno, which ex- isted in this island, and which were objects of ve- neration to all the people of the East, were very much embellished by the Romans. They also 10 GOTHS. — EMPERORS OF CONSTANTINOPLE. raised a magnificent temple to Apollo, and ano- ther to Proserpine, and a theatre, of which some scattered remains of chapiters and pillars are to be seen about the Citta Notabile, where they stood. Many Roman medals and coins have been found in the island, and several inscriptions, which prove the privileges enjoyed by the Maltese un- der that domination. The curious will find length- ened details on this subject in Ciantar's Malta Illus. Lib. ii. Not. 6. The Goths who had overrun and made them- selves masters of Italy and Sicily, and had pilla- ged and sacked Carthage, arrived at Malta about the year 506; and after occupying it for thirty- seven years, they were expulsed by the army of Justinian, under the command of Belisarius. In the Public Library, is still to be seen a monument of the time of the Goths; and several other in- scriptions have occasionally been met with in the Citta Notabile. The island of Malta now remained under the dominion of the Emperors of Constantinople, un- til the latter part of the ninth century ; but not enjoying the same privileges it had done in the time of the Romans, the inhabitants did not at- tain to their former glory. About the year 879, during the reign of the ARABS. 11 Emperor Basil, the Arabs, who had already over- run all the East, and conquered Spain, Portugal, Italy and part of France, made a descent upon the island of Gozo, which they soon took, arid massacred all the Greeks whom they found in it. From Gozo they crossed over to Malta, which nobly resisted for a length of time, but was at last obliged to yield to superior force. The fact is, the Greeks who followed Belisarius, had render- ed themselves obnoxious to the inhabitants by their oppressions, who were consequently easily brought over to give assistance to the enemy; hoping that by changing masters, they might free themselves from their servitude. The Arabs, upon taking possession of the island, exterminated all the Greeks, and made slaves of their wives and children. They, however, treated the Maltese with every mark of respect, and allowed them the free exercise of their own re- ligion. The Arabs soon found the importance and the advantages which the safe ports of the island afforded to their piratical expeditions, and in order to defend the entrance into the great har- bour, erected a fort on the present site of St. Angel o, to secure their vessels from danger of at- tack. They also added new fortifications around the Citta Notabile, by them called Mdina, aw! 12 ARABS. diminished the extent of the walls, in order to faci- litate its defence. During the reigns of the Emperors Nicephorus Phocas and Michael Paphlagonien, an expedition was fitted out in order to expel the Arabs from the island of Malta; on account of their continual piratical excursions upon Italy, and the whole Eastern empire, which had become quite an an- noyance. The admirals Nicetas and Manianes were appointed to command this enterprise. All their measures, however, were disconcerted ; for, being incapable of resisting the courage of their enemies, they were obliged to betake themselves to a disgraceful flight. The most extensive relic preserved in Malta of the domination of the Arabs, is their language. Ciantar gives a very plausible reason why this tongue got such an ascendancy in the island. He says: "As soon as the news was made known that the Saracens had passed over to Sicily with a great military armament, the most opulent and powerful men of our island fled to Constan- tinople, under which government they were." Only the poorer class remaining behind, they found it almost indispensable to accommodate themselves to the language of their masters, which became their own in the course of the two centu- ries they were governed by them. As a dialect COUNT ROGER. L3 of the Arabic*, the present Maltese spoken at (»<.- zo, and in the casals of Malta, is nearly as good as that of any other Arabic country; and it is sad to observe how little it is appreciated by the p< i - pie. With a little cultivation, the Maltese might possess a written language, which would yield to none in the beauty of its phrases, or the extent of its vocabulary. The advantages which would accrue to the island from a cultivation of the classical Arabic, is ably demonstrated in the late work of the Rev. Mr. Schlienz, already alluded to. After the Arabs had remained in quiet possess- ion of the island for 220 years, Count Roger, son of the celebrated Tancrede de Hauteville, in com- pany with his brother William, expelled them from Malta, as also from Sicily and Naples, and the neighbouring country. This event took place about the year 1090. The inhabitants of these islands regarded Roger as their deliverer, and as a testimonial of their gratitude, proposed to name him their sovereign. Roger accepted of the oi- ler, and was accordingly crowned King of Sicily and Malta, in spite of the opposition of the Pope, and the claims of the Emperor of Constantinople. Michael Comnenus, however, determined to re- instate his power in the islands of the Mediterra- nean, fitted out two formidable fleets, and com- i d them to the command of Alexis Comnenus, 14 COUNT ROGER. and Const antine Angelo; but their expedition failed of success, for both were taken prisoners by Roger, who, in order to revenge the outrage, car- ried his arms into the Emperor's dominions, and re- turned laden with the spoils of Thebes and Corinth, after having obliged Michael to acknowledge his independence, and the legitimacy of his rights. Roger, following the spirit of the age, founded and enriched many churches at Malta, and made some efforts towards the conversion of the Arabs to the Christian faith. To these, whom he had permitted to remain in his kingdom, he acted with the greatest generosity, and only levied from them a trifling yearly tribute as a sign of their subjection. So far did his toleration extend, that he permitted them to stamp a small gold coin, with the Arabic epigraph, * there is only one God, and Mohammed is the prophet of God,' on one side, and on the reverse, 'King Roger.* Some of these coins are still preserved in the private mu- seum of Cardinal Borgia at Velletri. Notwithstanding, however, the mildness with which Roger treated the Arabs who chose to re- main in the island, they occasionally revolted against his authority. In 1120, such of them as occupied the district called Kalaat-el-Bahria, at- tempted to massacre the principal inhabitants of the island ; which obliged the king to send his GERMAN EMPERORS. 15 son to Malta, in order to chastise the rebels as traitors of the government. After the death of Roger II, Constance his only daughter, who had espoused the Emperor Henry VI. ceded the islands of Malta and Sicily to the domination of the Emperors of Germany, of the house of Swabia, notwithstanding the opposition of Tancrede, the natural son of her father, who had seized upon the throne. The death of Tan- crede, however, and that of his unfortunate son, restored peace to the kingdom, and brought back to the party of Constance those of the barons whose dislike for a foreign prince had hitherto caused them to take sides against her. Under the government of Henry VI. and of his son Frederic II. the Maltese greatly signalized themselves by their valour at sea. Under one of their own admirals, they attacked and destroy- ed a squadron of the Republic of Pisa, which had come to lay siege to Syracuse ; and took the island of Candia from the Venetians, after having shat- tered their fleet, and taken prisoner their admiral Andrea Dandalo. After this island had remained for seventy-two years under the German Emperors, Manfred, the natural son of Frederic II. formed the horrible de- sign of poisoning his father, and making himself master of his dominions. The cruel oppressions 16 FRENCH. ami tyrannical proceedings of this usurper, ex- cited a rebellion of the Maltese and Sicilians against his government, and finally caused Pope Urban IV. to solve all his subjects from their allegiance to him. To save the consequences of such powerful opposition, he offered his daughter Constance in marriage to Peter, son of James, King of Arragon. This alliance, however, had no other effect upon Urban than of completing his enmity towards Manfred; and without any right, except that presumptuously assumed by his predecessors, he invested Charles of Anjou, King of France, with the possession of Sicily and Naples, and their dependant states. This pro- ceeding was as unjustly confirmed by his succes- sor Clement IV. who reserved to himself the duchies of Benevento and Ponte-Corvo, in the kingdom of Naples, and a yearly tribute of forty thousand crowns, which Charles obliged himself to pay to the Papal See on St. Peter's day. A battle which took place between the forces of Charles and Manfred, on the plains of Bene- vento, on the 26th. February, 1266, decided the fate of the kingdom in favour of the former. Manfred met the just punishment of his parricide and his other crimes, by being slain on the field, and his wife and children taken prisoners by the conqueror. FRENCH. 17 In the mean time, Corradin, the legitimate son of Fred. II. and rightful heir to the crown, who was at this period sixteen years old, in company with the Duke of Austria, prepared to reseat his father's dominions from the hands of Charles, After various successes, they penetrated as far as- the town of Aquila in the Abruzzi, where a battle was fought on the plain of Lis, close by the lake of Celano, in the year 1268. The troops of Corradin, being chiefly recruits composed of different nations, and fatigued by long marches, could not resist the impetuosity of the French soldiery, and so were obliged to yield. The Duke of Austria, together with Corradin, were behead- ed in the market-place at Naples, and with the latter the ancient house of Swabia became extinct. The daughter of Manfred, whose husband was now king of Arragon, with the title of Peter III. used all her influence, to inspire him to assert his claims to the kingdom of Sicily and Malta. The tyranny of Charles had already rendered him ob- noxious to the people over whom he governed, and it was not long before a desperate attempt was formed by a private Sicilian gentleman, who was secretly attached to Peter, to massacre all the French in the kingdom at a given signal. This famous conspiracy, known by the name of the Skilion Vespers, was carried into effect on * * * y 18 ABRAGONESE. Easter day of the year 1282, during which the King of Arragon was proclaimed sovereign of Sicily, and publicly crowned in the cathedral of Palermo. Charles was in Tuscany when the news of this tragical event reached him. He immediate- ly set about making endeavours to regain his lost authority ; but his fleet, commanded by his son, was discomfited by Admiral Roger, who commanded the vessels of the Arragonese. After this, Roger steered towards Malta, which at that time was governed for the French by William Corner, who had a squadron under his command lying in the harbour. After a bloody engage- ment, with much loss on both sides, the French commander was obliged to capitulate, and thus the island came under the dominion of the Ar- ragonese. The island of Malta, after having suffered so much from the dissensions of its successive mas- ters, was now destined to undergo even worse treatment, from the individuals to whom it was successively given as a fief by the Kings of Arra- gon and Castile. Notwithstanding the solemn promises made by King Louis, son of Peter II. at the just and urgent representations of the Maltese, that the island should in future be considered as unalienable from the crown of Sicily, it was twice CHARLES V. OF GERMANY. 19 afterwards mortgaged by King Martin: first, to Don Antonio Cordova, and subsequently to Don Gonsolvo Monroi, for the sum of 30,000 florins. Oppressed out of measure with the grievous yoke which they had to endure under these cir- cumstances, and wearied of making useless com- plaints, the Maltese resolved to pay to Martin the sum for which the island had been pledged. This generous offer was accepted, and in the year 1350, by a public act of the king, it was decreed that the islands of Malta and Gozo should hence- forth never be separated from the kingdom of Sicily; and that their inhabitants should enjoy equal privileges, with those of Palermo, Messina, and Catania. In 1516, this entire kingdom passed into the hands of Charles V. of Germany, the heir of all the Spanish dominions. Notwithstanding his confirmation of the previous declaration of his predecessors, concerning the perpetual junction of Malta with Sicily, this emperor, for political reasons, resolved to cede up the island to the Or- der of St. John of Jerusalem, the remains of which were at that time at Viterba, in the Papal States. The act of the donation is dated at Castel Franco, near Boulogne, March 23, 1530; and thedocument of the acceptance of the gift, by the council of the 20 ORDER OF ST. JOHN. Order, April 25th. of the same year. The sub- stance of the act was as follows: That the Empe- ror Charles V.King of Sicily, gave to theOrder of St. John of Jerusalem, in his name, and in that of his successors, the islands of Malta, Gozo, Comino, and Tripoli in Africa, as a free and noble fief, with all the privileges of the sovereignty, under these conditions: 1. That every year the Order should present a falcon to the king, or viceroy of Sicily. 2. That the bishoprick of Malta should always be nominated by the king. 3. That the chief admiral of the fleet should always be an Italian. 4. That they should preserve to the Maltese all their rights and privileges. The Grandmaster having accepted these conditions, embarked to take possession of the is- land, where he arrived on the 26th. of October 1530, accompanied by a great many knights and principal officers of the Order. The Maltese, at first, were by no means pleased at the change, which they considered as an infringement upon their engagement with the King of Sicily; but, being assured by the Emperor, that their privi- leges would be religiously preserved to them by the new government, they quietly submitted. The first care of the knights, after having ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 21 settled their authority through the two islands, was to provide some better accommodation for the present, and to choose a proper place to fix their habitation. But, as the island had no other defence than the old castle of St. Angelo, and was so much exposed on all sides, that it would have required greater sums than their exhausted trea- sury could spare, to put it in a proper state to re- sist an attack, the Grandmaster was obliged to content himself with surrounding the above men- tioned castle, (wherein he had ordered new build- ings to be reared for the present habitation of his knights) with a stout wall, to prevent its being surprised by the Turkish and Barbary corsairs. The Turks made several attempts to gain a foot- ing on the island; but were always repulsed with loss. In 1546, the famous corsair Dragut effected a landing, and sacked the village of Tarshien; but being attacked by the English commander Upton, at the head of the Maltese, he was obliged to betake himself to a disgraceful flight. In 1551, another attempt was made, which proved equally unsuccessful to the Turks; but in which the Order lost the Cavalier Repton, the Grand Prior of Eng- land. D' Omedes, who was Grandmaster at this time, added a great many fortifications to the island. L'Isle de la Sengle, his successor, carried on these means of defence, especially the walls 22 ORDER OF ST. JOHN. around the peninsula, which is now called after his name, La Sengle, or Senglea. During the reign of John de La Valette who suc- ceeded La Sengle, Malta was destined to under- go its severest attack from the hands of the Turks. A short sketch of the siege and the capture of the castle of St. Elmo will be given under the de- scription of that fort, which was the only place the enemy succeeded in taking. After two suc- cessive attempts, the united forces under Musta- pha and Dragut were obliged to set sail from the island, after suffering great loss, and giving the Knights of Malta an opportunity of testing their renowned bravery and signal courage. One of the first cares of the Grandmaster, after repairing the fort, w T hich had greatly suf- fered during the siege, was to enlarge the castle of St. Elmo, as this was the chief key of the two ports. But his great design was that of building a new city on the peninsula where it stood, and of fortifying it in such a manner, as might ren- der it a more secure retreat for the Order than that of Borgo, which is commanded by rocks and eminences. As soon as he had secured sufficient assistance, he immediately set about procuring the best engineers for the enterprise; workmen and materials were brought from Sicily, and he Avas enabled to lav the first stone of the new ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 23 city, on the 23th. day of March 1566. In 1571, three years after the death of La Valette, the city was completed by the Grandmaster Peter de Monte, and from that time became the seat of the government. , The successive Grandmasters of the Order aug- mented the fortifications which had been begun under La Valette, raised numerous forts in the interior, and along the coast of the island, and established various institutions, which shall be described in the sequel of this work. A preda- tory warfare, by sea and land, was continually kept up between the Knights of Malta and the Turks, in which the former generally dis- played more valour than true christian charity. They were in general successful, and at length became quite a terror to the Ottoman power. During the Grandmastership of Emmanuel de Pinto, the King of Sicily made some preten- sions on the island of Malta, declaring that it had only been yielded up to the Order, on condition that the supreme sovereignty should continue to be vested in the hands of the Kings of Sicily; that consequently he intended to send a Court to the island, called Monorchia, which should have the jurisdiction over all public affairs. This mes- sage was considered an infringement upon the rights of the existing government, and treated *2 21 ORDER OF ST. JOHN. with that indignity which so false an assertion merited. Still the king persisted in his attempt, and went so far, as to send the threatened court, in a splendid barge, handsomely damasked on the inside, to establish themselves in the island. Hear- ing of the arrival of so extraordinary an embassy, the Grandmaster sent forthwith to demand their errand; and not less astonished than enraged, when he understood that it was the Monarchia, he im- mediately ordered them to leave the harbour, and declaring that in case they disobeyed, he would honour them with a salute of shot. Not expecting such a reception, the disappointed court weighed anchor, and returned home. When the king heard of the failure of his scheme, he ordered the ports of Sicily to be closed against all Maltese vessels, and cut off the communication between this island and his dominions. This was a terrible blow to Malta, as all her supplies were derived from Sici- ly; and, being at continual war with the Turks, she could procure nothing from Africa. At this cri- sis, the Grandmaster entered into a truce with the Infidels, in order that the Ottoman ports might be opened to the Maltese. The Turks gladly accepted the proposal, as it gave them a short reprieve from the uninterrupted annoy- ance which their commerce received from the gallies of the Knights. During this time, the ORDER OF ST. JOHN. 25 Turks continually brought supplies of every kind to the island; and were so assiduous in their at- tentions, that they even imported snow during summer, which is so much used here in making refreshments. Acting now as they did in con- junction with the Order, in carrying on an offen- sive warfare against the King of Sicily, they soon made him feel, that he had raised up against him- self a formidable enemy, which he was not able to repress. After loosing many of his vessels, which had been seized by one or other of his enemies, he sought for a renewal of the peace, relinquished his unjust claims, and made every possible re- paration to the Grandmaster, for the war he had occasioned. The Bailiff Emmanuel de Rohan, of the Ian- guage of France, succeeded Ximenes, the succes- sor of Pinto, in the year 1775. One of his first acts after his elevation was to strengthen the executive government, by the formation of a re- gular battalion of infantry, composed promis- cuously of Maltese and foreigners ; but officered exclusively by knights. This step was thought decidedly necessary, if the knights wished to preserve their authority ; and the plan was stre- nuously recommended by several friendly pow- ers. This corps was intrusted with the keeping of La Valette, and the other important forts; 26 ORDER OF ST. JOHN. while a considerable force was also enrolled to guard the open coast. Several other efforts were made by the Grandmaster, to revive the ancient discipline of the Order; judicious altera- tions were carried into effect in the courts of judicature, and additional facilities given to pub- lic education. Nor, while thus busied in im- proving the internal administration, did the Grandmaster neglect the foreign policy of the Order. In Poland he obtained the restitution of some ancient possessions, and had new com- manderies formed in Russia and Germany; which latter were endowed with the confiscated proper- ty of the Jesuits, to the extent of £15,000. This, however, was only the sunshine of pros- perity, which was destined to be darkened by the clouds of adversity. Towards the latter part of Emmanuel de Rohan's reign, the Order suffered serious losses, by the extinction of ma- ny of its commanderies, and the taxes imposed upon others by their several governments. By an edict of France, dated 19th. of September 1792, the Order of Malta was declared to be ex- tinct within the French territories, and its pos- sessions were annexed to the national domains. To shew the delapidated state of the revenue, it need only be mentioned, that the receipts, which were in 1788 upwards of three million of livres, FRENCH. 27 were in 1797 reduced to one million. Not only were the possessions of the three French lan- guages confiscated, but the German and Arragon- ian commanderies, situated in Alsace, Rousillon and French Navarre, fell also a prey to repub- lican rapacity. Even in Spain, Sicily, Portu- gal and Naples, a similar system of spoliation had taken place. In this extremity, the Grand- master Hompesch, who had succeeded Rohan, found it necessary to melt and coin the plate of the gallies, and part of that used for the service of the hospitals; and to make use of the jewels, which were deposited in the palace, and in several of the churches. The French government, which had for some time manifested a spirit of hostility to the Order, now came forward to display it openly. The first division of the French fleet arrived before the port of Malta, on the 6th. of June 1798. On the 9th, General Bonaparte, with the remainder of the squadron, stood off the island, and through his consul Carson demanded free admission for the whole fleet. This not being complied with, on the same day, towards evening, the French began to disembark at the bay of Sta. Maddalena, and car- ried the small fort of St. George, without the loss of a single life. On the following day, fresh bodies of troops were thrown ashore, without meeting **2 28 FRENCH. with any resistance; who immediately began to lay waste the island with their usual license. To- wards the evening, the French army had secured almost all the important posts in the country, and had advanced beneath the walls of the city, where the greatest uproar now prevailed among the people, on account of the treachery which had been discovered among several knights of the Order. On the 17th. a council was called, and it was resolved to yield up the city into the hands of the besiegers. No sooner did the French find them- selves the uncontrolled masters of the island, than they enjoined all the knights to quit it within three days. About ten pounds sterling were advanced to each, for the expenses of his journey ; but he was not permitted to depart, until he had torn the cross from his breast, and mounted the trico- loured cockade. By the articles of capitulation, the French engaged to pay the Grandmaster an annual pension of 300,000 livres, and to each French knight resident in Malta, a yearly allow- ance of 700 livres, with 300 livres additional, to such as exceeded sixty years of age. Hom- pesch, accompanied by twelve knights, embark- ed on the night of the 17th. of June, on board a merchant ship bound for Trieste, accompanied by a French frigate. This weak man died at FRENCH. 29 Montpelier in 1804, in the sixty-second year of his age. The knights who followed the most prosperous course, at the general dispersion, were those who took refuge in the Russian do- minions, under the wing of their Imperial pro- tector. The Emperor Paul was solemnly inau- gurated, as the seventieth Grandmaster of the Order, in the year 1798; a nominal dignity, after which lie had anxiously longed. At the same time, the standard of St. John was hoisted on the bastions of the Admiralty at St. Peters- burgh, where it continues unfurled unto this day. Paul made several attempts to reorganize the Order; and to this end invited the nobility of Christendom to enlist themselves as knights in its service. A sudden change of policy, however, put an end to his project; for the army which he had raised to act in junction with the English for the reconquest of Malta, was sent to act against the British possessions in the East. The French expedition, with General Bona- parte, weighed anchor from Malta, on the 19th. of June, leaving General Vaubois with 4,000 men for the defence of the island. The rarities found in the public treasury, and in the churches of the Order, together with their standards and trophies, were all carried away by the spoilers, but never reached the country for which they 30 i-R i:\ch were destined: part of them perished in the Orient, which was blown up in the battle of Abou- kir, and the rest were captured by the English in the Sensible frigate, which afterwards fell into their hands. In the meanwhile, the Maltese began to feel that they had exchanged a feeble despotism for a yoke of extreme rigour. The French soldiery committed all sorts of depredations throughout the city; all faith was violated, every species of injustice was committed, the pensions suspended, and even the charitable benefactions to the indi- gent, which the knights had daily continued to the hour of their surrender, were withheld. These acts of oppression created an invincible antipa- thy in the Maltese for the government of their conquerors, and at length produced a sudden burst of popular vengeance. An attempt was made to despoil the church of the Citta Notabile, in order that its decorations might be sold for the public service; whereupon the inhabitants, ren- dered furious by a proceeding so sacrilegious, congregated in a body to prevent the sale. The French commandant Mosson succeeded in partly quelling the tumult; but he soon found it neces- sary to apply for fresh troops from Valetta. Before these could arrive, the population was reinforced by the villagers of Casal Zebbug, who FRENCH. 31 massacred the entire French detachment, with their commander, amounting to sixty men. From this moment, all communication ceased between the city and the interior, and Valetta assumed the aspect of a place reduced to a state of blockade. Matters were in this state when the English fleet appeared off the island, and in conjunction with a Portuguese squadron held a parley; in which it was demanded, that the island should be immediately evacuated. The answer return- ed was one of defiance; and a rigorous block- ade was forthwith commenced. The Portuguese admiral was left alone to maintain the blockade during the temporary absence of the English squadron ; on the return of which, a fresh sum- mons was sent for the place to surrender. Early in December the same was repeated, which was firmly and laconically answered. Hi- therto the city had only been partially canon- aded by a few guns; but on the night succeeding the last refusal, several new batteries were unmasked, and some balls happening to fall within the w r alls, the inhabitants feared that the threatened bombardment was about being put into execution. Famine now began to stare them in the face ; and the greatest misery raged among the citizens and soldiery. In these circumstances, the inhabitants of the interior 32 FRENCH. planned an enterprize against the garrison, in conjunction with a strong body of the town peo- ple, who were involved in the plot, and who were ready to rise in arms, as soon as they should hear the clangour of arms on the battlements. Two hundred Maltese, favoured by the night, crept into the ditches, and along the sea shore, close under the city walls in the Marsamuscetto harbour; but while laying in ambush, they were unfortunately discovered, and the alarm was gi- ven to the garrison. On this occasion, forty-four of the conspirators were apprehended, and shot by the French authorities. The blockade had now lasted for six months, and the city exhibited a scene of frightful priva- tion. The besiegers would not permit any to leave the town, knowing that their doing so would relieve the garrison. Disease added its rava- ges to the general suffering, and soldiers and citizens became alike its victims. Month after month passed heavily over, and in August 1800, the citizens being totally beggared, the army was put on half pay. Four months afterwards it was entirely stopped, and their rations greatly less- ened. Still they bore all with astonishing for- titude, being supported with the hope of speedy deliverance. At length, however, the news of the interception of the supplies, and their capture BRITISH. 33 by the English, disheartened many, though it did not at once decide them to capitulate. The condition of the town was dreadful beyond description. Fresh pork brought seven shillings and two pence a pound ; rats sold at an exor- bitant price; dogs and cats were generally eaten and horses, asses and mules were similarly con-' verted into articles of food. On the 8th. of September 1 800, a parley was held with the be- siegers, when the terms of capitulation were ar- ranged and ratified by Major General Pigot and Commodore Martin on behalf of the English. On the afternoon of the same dav, two English frigates and some small craft entered the port; while the British troops took possession of the Forts Tigne, Ricasoli, and Floriana. The follow- ing morning, the French garrison sailed away, after having endured an obstinate blockade of two years. In the year 1814, agreable to the resolution of the Congress of Vienna, the islands of Malta, Comino and Gozo were confirmed to the Eng- lish crown; and they have ever since been consi- dered, by all the powers of Europe, as a British dependency. By way of comparison, we shall just give a succint account of the state of financial affairs during the last years of the reign of the Knights 34 BRITISH. of Malta, in order to shew that the island has lost nothing in point of wealth or prosperity, in hav- ing ceased to be the conventual residence of that government, and in having come under the rule of the British Crown. Reverting to the public expenditure of the Order, it may be satisfactory to compare it with the disbursement made here in present times out of funds voted by the British parliament. In the time of the Order the general treasury, which may be said to answer to our military chest, provided for the military and naval charge, so far corresponding with the supplies now made by Her Majesty's treasury for carrying on similar services on this station. The money laid out within the place by the general treasury from the foreign resources of the Order, on an average of ten years ending in 1788, did not exceed, if it even amounted to £82,525. From the First Report of the Commissioners of Colonial Inquiry, 8th. December 1830, it is col- lected that the disbursement from the revenues of the United Kingdom made within these islands for the service of the land-force alone, including the commissariat and ordnance departments, but leaving out the Maltese regiment (the expense BRITISH* 35 of which is refunded from the local treasury,) amounted in round numbers to £101,000.* Of this sum, it may be inferred from the same Report, that about £7,000were expended in Eng- land; which will leave £94,000 for the local ex- pense, being in round numbers £11,000 more than were laid out in the place from the trea- sury of the Order for all its services. To this excess of £1 1,000 must be added the expenses of the naval department in works of masonry, in the repairs and supplies of ships of war, and in payments on account of seamen's wages, all of which have been very considerable of late years, though varying according to cir- cumstances; and it will probably result that, for the lowest year, the expenditure of the United Kingdom in these islands has exceeded by about fifty per cent the corresponding public expense of the Order. By the same document it is seen that the works and repairs of the ordnance and barrack depart- ments amounted in 1829 to no less a sum than * According to the parliamentary return of the mili- tary expenses lately laid upon the table of the House of Commons, it appears that the expense of this island to the Military Chest of Great Britain was, for the year ending tflst. March 1837, £167,671; only exceeded by the extensive colonies of Jamaica, the West Indies, Ca- nada, Nnv South Wales, Mid the Capo of Goo. \ Hope. ***2 36 BRITISH. £6,390; and, if the extensive works of the naval department be added, it must be evident that the Order cannot approach a comparison with the British government on the score of employment given to the industrious inhabitants, whose inte- rests are no longer, as they were then, opposed by the forced labour of slaves. Besides the expenditure out of the public trea- sury of the Order, it is assumed, on a generous calculation, that the sum of £185,000 was annu- ally put into circulation in the island out of the priyate incomes of the knights and other mem- bers. Against these disbursements are to be set the whole personal expenditure of naval officers, * the portion of expense arising from the private incomes of military officers, and the excess of mo- ney spent beyond what may have been the case formerly, in consequence of the greater affluence of strangers to the place, under the extended connexions and superior protection now enjoyed through British power and influence. The last assumption may indeed admit of dispute; but in whatever light it may be viewed, it will remain with the reader to form his own conclusion in regard to the extent to * That of the seamen, originating from the military chest, comes into the comparison of public expenditure. BRITISH. 37 which the island may have obtained compensa- tion, since it has been annexed to the British empire, for loss of the benefit which it derived from the incomes of the resident knights. It is well known, however, that of late years British squadrons have continued at anchor in this port during many successive months. The money laid out in the place by the officers and seamen, and expended in the supply of fresh pro- visions, is likely to amount, at such times, for each ship of the line, to between £1000 and £2000 a month, exclusive of the charge for repairs and the supply of stores. But, whatever may have been the effect, to contest the superior protection enjoyed under the present ruling power, can scarcely enter the ima- gination of one accustomed to judge from the evidence of his senses. Let him refer to a map of the island, and he will perceive the population huddled together within from half to two-thirds of its surface, and (where not bounded by preci- pitous heights or rugged shores) shut in by lines or works of defence, such as those at Marsasci- rocco, St. Julian's, Nasciar and elsewhere, — works now become useless, although they still continue to bound the generally inhabited part of the is- land, through the force of habit and the situation of the parish churches. This concentration was 3 38 BRTTISH. caused by the insecurity of the people. In the days of the Order, no inhabitant trusted himself to sleep on the coast unsecured by walls of de- fence, as the solitary mansions of Spinola and Selmoon, built in those times strong enough to repel a sudden attack of corsairs, fully attest ; but, under British protection, the marine villages of St. Julian and Sliema have sprung up, where the inhabitants enjoy the sea-breeze without dread of being dragged from their beds into slavery. The truth is, that, without the protection of a great maritime power, Malta must be constantly exposed to aggressions, which can only cease or become mitigated in proportion as they reduce her to poverty, and leave her an object of no temp- tation. The island is not naturally fertile but by the exertions of an industrious population aided by a genial climate it has been rendered highly pro- ductive, through the adequate protection enjoyed during the last three centuries. That it was flou- rishing under the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthagini- ans and Romans, the monumental remains would prove, if the fact were not evident from the mari- time power of those nations combined with its favourable position; but during the middle ages, under the precarious sway of the Arabs, Normans and Sicilians, the island fell to decay, and had not recovered in 1530, when it was given over by BRITISH. 39 Charles V. to the knights, who found the place in a state of great destitution. This fact appears from the report of the commissioners who on that occasion were deputed by the knights to visit Malta. Among other remarks they observed : "The island is continually exposed to the rapacity and devastation of infidel corsairs, who, without any dread of the castle, freely enter both ports, and very often reduce to slavery a great number of poor Maltese." The population has been es- timated * to have consisted at this time of about 25,000 souls in both islands, and to have increased to about 100,000 during the following 268 years of occupation by the Order. This advancement in population, and consequently in wealth, could not have proceeded, had it not been guarded by the maritime power of the knights, furnished as it was by the papal, and respected by the pro- testant states of Europe. Previously to their sway, the two principal harbours seem, by the extract just given, to have facilitated invasions rather than afforded defence, and an inner cove was selected for the sea-port; but the knights transferred their main position to the neglected site on which Valetta now stands between the two harbours, which in time became no longer * Ransijat, Journal du Siege et BIocus de Malte, p,294. 40 BRITISH. disproportioned to the extent of her commerce and public establishments. Nevertheless, the protection of the Order, su- perior as it was to any thing previously enjoyed by the Maltese, was not of a nature, through its continued course of warfare with piratical states, to advance them far as a maritime people. Not- withstanding the advantageous position of the island, in the channel dividing the eastern from the western portion of the Mediterranean, inse- curity against depredators at sea originally forced the Maltese to become a rustic rather than a maritime people. It is remarkable, even at the present day, how much the rural prevails over the maritime in the features of the place; and equally so that the Maltese should not compete, with the success that might be expected, with others engaged in the carrying trade of the Me- diterranean, while they enjoy a protection more efficient both at sea and on shore than history records. Under the knights, the people felt se- cure, considered as a single body, like a garrison confidently sustaining a siege, whose killed, wounded and captured are not of sufficient num- ber to effect a marked impression upon the gen- eral features of the place; but under the superior maritime power of Great Britain, that security is felt by each individual in his own person. BRITISH. 41 That there is still much room for improvement in the condition of the lower classes here, and great distress prevailing among them, is too evi- dent ; but whatever may now be the extent of misery, it may be confidently affirmed to be less than it was in the time of the knights, if we mere- ly consider the greater proportion of wheaten bread at present consumed within both islands. During the last years of the Order, the annual consumption of foreign wheat was about 43,000 salms or quarters by 100,000 inhabitants: at present it averages about 57,000 among 1 15,000 souls; giving for each individual 3.96 bushels now, against 3.44 formerly, exclusive of the con- sumption from the native harvest, which cannot be less at the present day. As regards their future welfare, let us hope that, as the Maltese are an industrious people, who for their honesty, sobrie- ty and other excellent qualities will bear a com- parison with any nation upon earth, means may be devised for mitigating the distress which many of them continue to suffer through poverty. The charitable disposition of the wealthier class- es of Maltese is too well known to require being pointed out; but it may be remarked that an ex- tensive field still remains open to their benevo- lent exertion, by their uniting for the formation of some well concerted plan, adapted to improve *3 42 BRITISH. permanently the condition of the lower orders of their fellow countrymen. According to a statement extracted from the documents of the Land-Revenue Office, it is seen that between September 1800 and December 1829 the civil services of these islands were sup- plied out of the revenues of the United Kingdom with no less an aid than the net amount of £668,666 7s. 2d, sterling.* These remarks conclude the comparison be- tween the expenditure of the Order and that of the United Kingdom, as defrayed in Malta. The civil finances of the island under the British Go- vernment for the last two years is as follows: in J 836 the revenue was £95,392 8 10|, the ex- penditure £89,224 10 3|; and in 1837 the income was £103,142 1 4, and the total expenditure £97,497 1 6|. The chief part of the revenue is derived from maritime and judicial duties and dues, and the proceeds of landed rents belonging to the English crown; the interior taxes on the island last year amounted only to £^,858 16 3±. The surplus revenue is paid over into the Mi- litary chest towards defraying the expenses of the Malta Fencible Regiment. * For the foregoing account of the finances of Malta under the Government of the Order of St. John of Je- rusalem I am indebted to W. Thornton, Esq. by whose kindness 1 am permitted to extract several paragraphs BRITISH. 43 Since Malta has been under the dominion of England, the inhabitants have enjoyed all the rights and privileges of British subjects. Until very recently, the direction of all public affairs was vested in the hands of the governor, who is appointed to the office by the Home Government, and usually holds the rank of General in the ar- my. In 1835, His late Majesty, William IV. was graciously pleased to appoint a Council within these his possessions, to advise and assist in the administration of the government thereof; which Council at present consists of six persons,* e x- clusive of the Governor, three of whom must at all times be persons holding offices within this island or its dependencies, and the remaining Members persons not holding offices. The Se- nior Officer in command of Her Majesty's land forces in Malta, the Honourable Chief Justice, and the Chief Secretary to Government are the three official Members as aforesaid. The three unoffi- cial Members are elected by His Excellency the from his valuable work on the subject, printed at the Government Press 1836, to which I refer the reader for the calculation of those statements, which for the sake of brevity I have assumed. • It was intended originally that this Council should consist of seven persons beside the Governor, including the Romish Archbishop of the island ; but this prelate, not being permitted by the Pope to take the required oath, has resigned his seat. 44 BRITISH. Governor, two from out of the chief landed pro- prietors and merchants of the island, being Her Majesty's native-born subjects, and the third from out of the principal merchants being British-born subjects, who must have been actually resident for a period of not less than two years. The Members of this Her Majesty's Council enjoy the freedom of debate and vote, in all af- fairs of public concern that may be brought un- der their consideration in Council; and, whilst Members, are authorized to assume the adjunc- tive title of Honourable. This court must be considered, in every respect, as a gracious concession on the part of the Bri- tish government, which accords to all her pos- sessions the benefits of her free and liberal con- stitution. It, however, does not come up with the wishes of the people. They desire to have a National Parliament, or Consiglio Popolare, elected by themselves, which shall have entire di- rection of the public affairs; and to obtain which they have made all possible exertions. To say nothing of the inconsistency which there would be in the establishment of such an assembly with our present constitution, and the universal mode in which England has treated her colonies, the smallness of the territory, and the general un- fitness of the inhabitants, at present, to goveru BRITISH. 45 themselves, which they have never done, would be a sufficient reason for their request to be denied. Within the last two years, a Commission of Special Inquiry was appointed by parliament to examine into the affairs of the island, consisting: of two eminent gentlemen, who resided here for about eighteen months; during which time a few alterations were made in the local administration. So far, the best result of their efforts may be seen in the plans which are now about being brought into execution, for the wider spread of education among the people. To the Normal schools, which were established in Valetta and Senglea, several others have been added in the country, in which a great number of children have commenced a course of instruction; and some improvements are contemplated in the University. The prohibition against private presses has been abolished ; though all publications must still un- dergo a censorship from government. In con- sequence of this, several printing offices have been opened, and no less than five papers* are at present published, and circulated in the island. * The Harlequin, published twice a week in English ; the Portafoglio and M edit err aneo, two weekly papers, the former in Italian, the latter in Italian and English ; the Spettatore Imparziale and the Ape Melitense, two monthly publications written entirely in Italian. Besides the above, the Malta Government Gazette itill continues to be issued every Wednesday. **3 46 BRITISH. The entire freedom of the press has been anxious- ly expected by the people, for some months past ; and we understand that the delay is occasioned in drawing up the laws and regulations by which it is to be governed. We sincerely hope, that these circumstances will lead to the welfare and ad- vancement of the people, in moral as well as intellectual cultivation. Several other alterations of minor importance have been made, which do not merit a place in this brief account of the principal changes which have taken place in this island, under the va- rious governments to which it has been subject. In the progress of this work, remarks will be made upon the condition of the people, the ad- ministration of justice, and the various institu- tions at present existing, which will throw light upon the whole state of public affairs as they now stand. PART II. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF MALTA DESCRIPTION OF MALTA, TOQETHER WITH A BRIEF OUTLINE OF IT8 PRODUC- TIONS, CLIMATE, LANGUAGE, &C. Geographical situation and features of the island. Malta, in respect to its situation, is farther distant from the mainland than any other island in the Mediterranean. It lies in 35° 50' of north latitude, and 14° 12' east longitude from Green- wich. It is 60 miles distant from the nearest point of Sicily, which bounds it on its north be- tween Capo Passero and Camarano ; 190 miles from Ca-pe Spartivento, the nearest point of the mainland of Italy, and 200 from Calipia, the nearest point of Africa; so that by its position, it may claim to be an island appertaining to 50 GENERAL FEATURES OF THE ISLAND. Europe. It is about 60 miles in circumference; its greatest width is twelve, and length twenty. Its longest day is 14 hours, 52 £ minutes. The two chief ports of the island are divided by the oblong peninsula on which the town of Valetta is built. The Grand Harbour, which is to the east, is about a mile and a half in length, and less than three quarters of a mile in width at the mouth. This again contains several conve- nient creeks or small bays, where even large vessels of war may ride safely at anchor. The entrance into this harbour is defended by the forts St. Elmo, Ricasoli, and the castle St. An- gelo, so that a forcible landing from this quarter would be next to impossible, if the above fort- resses were properly supplied with men and am- munition. The harbour to the west, called Marsa muscetto,* is destined for vessels arriving from places not in free pratique. Here they are obli- ged to perform their quarantine, and hence called also the Quarantine Harbour. This latter is also defended by Fort St. Elmo on the one side, and Fort Tigne on the other. The Fort Manoel, which is built on a small island within the harbour, is also intended to act upon its en- trance in case of attack. • Marsa, is an Arabic word signifying a place for anchorage, a harbour. GENERAL FEATURES OF THE ISLAND. 51 Besides the harbours above mentioned, there are several others in different parts of the island. The principal of these are Marsa Scala, Mar- sa Scirocco, and St. Thomas's bay on the south-east, and the Bay of St. Paul, St. Julian and Melleha on the nort west. Each of these is defended by a small fort, garrisoned at present by a detachment of the Malta Fencibles. Besid es these forts, there are several others built round the coast, in order to prevent smuggling, and to give the alarm in Case of the appearance of an enemy off the island. Most of the southern coast of the island is by nature inaccessible. The rocks, which rise up per- pendicularly from the sea to the height of three hundred feet, form a natural fortification it would be impossible to destroy. From the general bro- ken and rugged appearance of many parts of the shore, especially in tin's quarter, it is very probable that at some distant period the island underwent several extraordinary convulsions of nature; but the occasion of such an event is probably beyond the reach of history or tradition. The other divisions of the coast are low and rocky, and present a very barren appearance. 52 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. Soil — Cultivation — Industry of the inhabitants — Corn — Cotton — Clover — Fruits — Figs — Singular process in cultivation of— Supply of water — Cattle — Fowl — Birds — Fish. Notwithstanding the stony soil of Malta the culture which is bestowed upon it renders it very fertile. The mould is not remarkably rich nor very deep in any part of the island. On many of the hills and rising grounds the fields are enclosed with stone walls, built up so as to form terraces, in order to prevent the heavy rains of winter from washing away the soil, and pre- venting the cattle from entering them. These walls, which are formed of the broken stones from the quarries of the island, give the country a very monotonous appearance; while their bright colour reflects back the rays of the sun in summer, and renders the heat much more powerful. The chief productions of the island are corn and cotton. In some parts the land yields 40 and even 60 to one of the former, while in others not more than from 12 to 25. This fertility must be attributed as well to the industry of the Mal- tese farmers, as to the natural richness of the FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 53 soil. Indeed, the industry of the country people in cultivating their little island is surprising. The land is never permitted to rest, but is laboured and sown year after year without intermission. Wheat is sown every alternate year with barley and clover about the month of November; the harvest commences in June. The barley is ga- thered about the month of May. After this crop , the 6elds are sown with cotton, melons, cummin, sesam, and other seeds. By this process, the land is not exhausted, and should it appear to be get- ting poor, instead of barley, peas, beans, Indian- corn and other leguminous plants arc substituted. The Cotton of Alalia is of a very line quality, and forms the chief article of export. It is of two kinds, distinguished by their colours, one being white, and the other of a dark nankeen colour. This plant is sown about the end of May, and gathered in the early part of September when the rains begin. In the year 1801, the value of raw cotton produced in these islands amounted to about half a million sterling. From various causes, howexer, especially the new discoveries of machinery for preparing this article, and the abundant supplies from Egypt, from whence it can be procured at a cheaper rate, the value of late years has diminished one half. The seed of 54 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. this plant is used by the inhabitants for fatten- ing their cattle, and I remarked that the same custom prevailed in the east, it being the chief food which the Arabs of Syria and Palestine give to their camels. A fine species of clover, called by Linnaeus hedysarum coronarium with a red flower, is very abundantly produced in this island during the rainy season. The appearance of the fields when this plant is in blossom is really delightful. It grows to the height of from four to five feet, and forms green forage for horses, mules, &c. in win- ter, and what remains is put up and dried to be used as hay in summer. The other provender given to cattle is barley and carobs; both which are raised in the island, but not in sufficient quantity for the consumption. The carob or locust abounds here, and is one of the few trees which are green all the year round. It is found scattered about the country, and grows in the most stony and rocky soil. Many of the poorer classes use this fruit as an article of food, and when baked in the oven possesses by no means a disagreeable flavour. It is quite com- mon in the country for the traveller to be an- noyed by children who hold out their hands begging for Ilabba Harroob, a grain to buy lo- cust with. FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 55 Besides the above, Malta affords a great abun- dance of vegetables and fruits. In fact, it would be a surprising sight for a stranger to stand with- out the gates of Port des Bombes, before sun-rise during the fruit season, and see the numerous carts laden with rich supplies of the above arti- cles waiting for admittance into the city. The market, at this time, is well stocked with strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, me- lons and prickly-pears, which are sold at very low prices, and upon which many of the poorer class- es, who are unable to purchase other food, chiefly subsist. Ttye oranges of Malta are justly prized for their excellent quality; and the great quan- tities which are exported to England and other countries shews the esteem in which they are held abroad. The season continues for upwards of five months, from November to April, during which time these beautiful trees are covered with abundance of fruit. The egg and blood oranges are considered the most superior. The latter has been produced, according to some, by ingrafting the common orange-bud on a pomegranate stock ; but this opinion is quite unnatural, and requires evidence to sustain it. The grapes also are ex- cellent, but the island does not produce more than sufficient for its own consumption. The 4 56 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. first fig, which is called baitra ta San Juan, or St. John's fig, because it is generally ripe about the anniversary of the feast of that apostle, is of a large size, much larger than I ever met with in any part of the East. About the latter end of July, three other kinds appear, of a smaller size, but of a more delicious flavour; one of these is whjte, and the other two are of a black or dark purple colour called by the natives farketsdn and parsott. A little later, a second crop from the tree of the first large fig is ripe ; but this is of an inferior quality, and not held in much esteem. A peculiar process in the treatment of this fruit is worthy of remark; and the necessity of its adoption in some countries, to the exclusion of others, is a question which the curious may find it interesting to determine. When the figs are advancing towards maturity, in order to prevent their falling off, and to hasten the ripening, a cluster of male figs is suspended upon the bran- ches of the female tree, by means of a plant ( Am- mi majus) called on this account Dakra, which effectually secures them from the danger, and soon effects the desired end. The male tree is called by the natives dokkara; and as many small winged insects are generally found in the fruit upon opening, it is the firm belief of the country people that the tree generates them. 1 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 57 have heard several opinions advanced on the sub- ject, but the most rational way of accounting for it, is that these small flies, which abound about all kinds of fruit trees, entering into the male fig, get clothed with the pollen with which the stamina on the inside are covered, and, carrying it with them into the female fig, produce that natural coalition which is necessary for the effec- tual generation of fruit. Attempts were made during the government of Sir Fred. Cavendish Ponsonby to cultivate the cochineal in these islands; but the attempt failed, as the climate was not found to be favourable. More recently, also, much has been done in re- gard to the rearing of silk-worms, for which nu- merous trees w r ere planted during the govern- ment of the late Marquis of Hastings ; but, al- though the silk produced was of an excellent quality, it was found that the trade would not turn to profit, as the worms did not thrive, and has therefore lately been abandoned. The land is supplied with water by the various wells and springs which are found on the island. Of the latter there are a great many, besides nu- merous cisterns in almost every field throughout the country. These together with the light dews which fall during the spring and summer months are sufficient to render the ground fertile and 58 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. abundant, because the soil, being very shallow, is soon moistened through; and as the rock below is of a soft porous nature, it retains what is over and thus keeps the roots perpetually moist. Were this not the case, there would be no crops at all in summer, the heat of the sun being so ex- ceedingly violent. In regard to cattle, the greater part for the consumption of the island is brought over from the Barbary States. Oxen, especially, are import- ed from that quarter, and after being fed here for a short time yield very excellent beef. The mutton is less valued, as it is much poorer on account of the little pasture there is for cattle in the country. The sheep, however, are very pro- lific, often bringing forth four lambs, and scarcely ever less than two. The goats are of a superior quality, very large, and yielding abundance of milk. It is the custom for the milk-man to lead about his goats in the morning and evening through the streets, in order to serve any who may call for him; he then kneels down at the door, and milks the animal before the customer. The milk of the sheep is used particularly for making curd; and in Gozo, a very pleasant kind of fresh cheese, with which it supplies our island, is produced from the same. The asses and mules of Malta and Gozo are FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. 59 very remarkable for their extraordinary size and the symmetry of their shape. These animals form the chief vehicles for carrying burdens and for draught, and not unfrequently are seen yoked with oxen engaged in treading out corn. The Maltese are in general very careful of their beasts, and take care to supply them with a suf- ficiency of food. The race of Maltese dogs, so much renowned in Europe, and called bichons by Buffon in his Natural History, is now nearly extinct. They are very small, with long glistening hair reaching down to the feet, a face covered with the same, and a turned-up nose. I acknowledge that I can see but very little beauty in these dwarfish crea- tures, and am led to think it is only their rarity which fixes their value at so high a price; they are sometimes sold for forty dollars. Fowls, turkies, ducks, geese, rabbits, and other domestic birds and animals are always found in the market, though by no means of a superior quality. Game is less plentiful, except in the months of September and April, when there are generally a great many quails, which light upon the island in their flight, and are not unfrequently caught by the hand. Wild duck, snipe, fig-peckers, woodcocks, plovers and doves form the chief game for sportsmen. *4 60 FERTILITY AND PRODUCTIONS. The harbour and the surrounding sea yield abundance of fish, of which there is seldom any want. Mullet, whitings, tunny, sword fish, eels and various others of the crustaceous genus, such as lobsters, crabs and shrimps are the principal supply of the market. Of the testaceous kind, oysters are found in great plenty, as also several species of the cardium or cockle, the venus, the tellina, and the patella, of which the natives are very fond. The phola dactylus, or sea-date, is also another species very much esteemed by the inhabitants. It is found in soft lime-stones ta- ken out of the sea, and in such quantities, that I have seen fifty extracted from a stone not more than a foot square. It is of two kinds, one with a brown and the other with a white shell; the the latter is very phosphoric. SignorTrapani, a Maltese gentleman, has lately published a very interesting catalogue in five languages of the fish to be met with at Malta. He numbers about 150 different species. The argonauta argo, or Paper Nautilus, is sometimes found here, but I have never seen it to- gether with the animal. The shell is of the broad keel species. 61 The indigenous plants of Malta, or such as grow spontaneously on these islands, are perhaps more numerous than might be expected, from the dry nature of the soil, and the small extent of uncul- tivated ground existing. Dr. Zerafa, in his 'FlO- rie Melitensis Thesaurus, ' enumerates 644 species of plants. Deducting from this number those which are cultivated, and adding the omissions, the whole number of indigenous plants may not perhaps be very far from 700. A great portion of them, as the situation will naturally lead to expect, are maritime plants, common to the coasts of the Mediterranean in general. Such, however, as re- quire a sandy beach, are comparatively few : as Po- lygonum maritimum, in St. George's bay; Cakile JEgyptiacum, in the bay of Mellieha; Euphorbia Peplis, E. Paralias, E. terracina, and Eryngium maritimum, at Mellieha and Gozo; Pancratium iUyricum, Gozo. One of the most common mari- time plants of Malta, not mentioned by Dr. Zerafa, * For this interesting article on the Botanical produc- tions and rarities of Malta, I am indebted to my rmu h esteemed friend Mr. P. Brenner, who has bestowed much attention to this branch of science, particularly as connected with this island. I believe, that were he to publish all the information which he has collected on this delightful subject, it would be considered as a valuable acquisition by amateurs. 62 BOTANY. is the lowly Crucianella maritima, which blossoms in May and June; the strong aromatic perfume of the flowers of this plant after sunset, betrays it at a distance. On the rocks, especially of the southern coast, are particularly to be noticed, Hy- pericum JEgyptiacum, and Anthyllis Hermannice. Malta is remarkable for its richness in plants belonging to the natural order Papilionacece, the Diadelphia Decandria of Linnaeus. Of this, the genus Trifolium counts the greatest number of species, among which the most interesting ones are T. subterraneum and T. suffocatum; both not mentioned by Dr. Zerafa. Then the genuses Medicago, Melilotus, Lotus and Ononis. The ge- nus Euphorbia contains likewise a considerable number of species. Many different kinds of this- tles are met with in Malta, of which the most formidable in appearance is the wild artichoke, Cynara Cardunculus. Remarkable for its veno- mous quality is the stalkless Atractylisgummifera ; and the Carlina lanataior its fine purple -coloured flowers. Among the family of the grasses, of which Malta contains a great variety, one of the rarest and most curious is Lygeum spartum, found at St. Paul's bay, Mtahleb, Fauuara, &c. With regard both to abundance and elegance, the Stipa tortilis, by Dr. Zerafa erroneously called Stipa pinnata, is conspicuous. Aromatical plants of BOTANY. G3 the natural class Lahiatiflora>, or Didynam'w. gymnospermia of Linnaeus, are but few here, as Mentha Pulegium, Melissa marifolia, Thymbra hirsuta. The flowers of the latter are said to give the Malta honey its peculiar flavour. The plants are gathered and brought into town in large bun- dles for fuel. Owing to the mildness of the climate, there is no intermission of vegetation all the year round, and consequently every month produces its pe- culiar flowers. The beginning of the vegetable year may justly be counted from the end of Oc- tober, when the first rains have begun to restore to the soil the verdure of winter and spring. The first and most prominent flower which then makes its appearance is the Ranunculus bullatus, whose broad leaves and fragrant yellow flowers adorn all the uncultivated ground during November and December. This is immediately succeded by the Bellis annua, the white little flowers of which are so abundant in December and January as to make the hills and way-sides appear as if covered with snow. Also its much taller sister Bellis syl- vestris is not unfrequently met with at that season. The chief ornament of spring, however, is the pretty purple flowered Silene ciliata, which m March intersperses the white groups of the Bellis, and gives the ground a most delightful vivacity, 64 BOTANY. March and April are the months in which ve- getation is in its most luxuriant state. Various species of the natural classes Ensafa and Lilia- cece, or the class Hexandria of Linnaeus bedeck, the fields and hills at this season ; as Asphodelus ramosus, Gladiolus communis, Iris sisyrinchium, Narcissus Tazetta, Hyacinthus comosus, Omitho- galum Narbonense, and O. Arabicum ; and in May several species of the interesting class Orchidece. The plants which blossom during the summer belong for the most part to the natural class Composite or Synyenesia superflua Linnsei, with yellow flowers, and are almost exclusively mari- time plants. For instance, in June and July: Cineraria maritima, Centaurea Melitensis, Ver- bascum undulatum, (cl. Labiatiflorae,) Capparis sativa (cl. Rhoeadeae) attiring with its large fra- grant flowers the walls and rocks of the fortifica- tions ofValetta. In July and August: Inula crith- moides, CritJimum maritimum, (cl. Umbelliflo- rae.) In August and September: Inula foetida, Ambrosia maritima, Scilla maritima (cl. Lilia- ceae) whose leaves appear in November and die away in May. In September and October: Inu- la viscosa, and Erigeron graveolens. A plant very common in Malta, but rare in Europe, is the mean looking Evax Pygmea, which blossoms in April. The following plants are confined to particular BOTANY. 65 spots, or are otherwise rare in Malta : Putoria ca- labrica, on a rock in the Uied el Asel ; Convolvulus Cneorum, near Casal Dingli; Convolvulus Can- tabrica, near Mtahleb; Cheiranthus tricuspidatus, near Marsa Scirocco ; Teucrium Scordioides, Heli- anthemum Fumana, near Gezzuma; Hyacinthus romanus, at Fauuara, Mtahleb, and Most a; Car- thamus coernleus, at Mtahleb. On the rocks over- hanging the Fauuara a plant grows plenteously which Dr. Zerafa called Centaurea spathulata, and about which some remarks may be found in the Malta Government Gazette of Feb. 20, 1833. On closer examination, however, it appears that it is no Centaurea. Several German Professors of botany who examined dried specimens did not recognise the plant. It may perhaps finally be made out to be a new genus. In Gozo, the so called General's or Fungus rock, is peculiarly re- markable for various plants not found in other parts of Malta and Gozo. Besides the well known Cynamorium coccineum, commonly called Fungus Melitensis, which blossoms in April and May, there is the Cheiranthus sinuatus, Daucus gummi- ferus, Gnaphalium ambiguum, and several others. A great variety of sea- weeds are also to be found along the rocky shore. 66 CLIMATE. State of Thermometer — Sudden changes of temperature — Summer heat — South wind — Scirocco — Beauty of evening sky — Winter — Thunder, The climate of Malta has been variously des- cribed by persons, who perhaps were influenced by the particular effects it produced on their in- dividual constitutions. This, though yery natural, is an unfair way of deciding the general nature of the climate of any country. The freedom of the island from any endemic disease, the ordi- nary good health enjoyed by the natives, by the English, as also by foreigners resident here, and the actual state of the weather throughout the year, go very far towards establishing the salubrious nature of the atmosphere. During the summer months the thermometer generally shifts from 80° to 88° of Fahrenheit, and towards the end of October sinks to 70°. From this time it gradually decreases until Ja- nuary, when it varies from 55° to 50°, below which it seldom falls, and again rises about the end of February to 60°. From March to May it ge- nerally ascends to 70°, and continues advancing until the latter end of June when the summer sets CLIMATE. 67 in. This range continues from one year to an- other without any important variation. The time, however, in which one is most af- fected by the heat or cold, is not that which marks their extremes on the thermometer. That there is an almost continual contrast between our sensations and the instruments which measure the true temperature of the air, between sensible and real heat and cold, any person who has re- sided in Malta for a few years will have disco- vered. The heat is sometimes very oppressive when the thermometer is comparatively low; and the same remark holds good in regard to the cold in winter, when it is comparatively high. This may be attributed to the direction of the winds, their sudden changes producing a less or greater degree of heat or cold according to the quarter from whence they blow, and their vio- lence modifying the sensations which they cause us to feel. The wind from the north and north- west always brings freshness, while that which blows from the south produces an increase in the heat. Rain has been known to fall in summer, but is of very rare occurrence. The heat, however, is ge- nerally tempered by the north and north-west- erly winds, which prevail during the hot months, and which render the evenings delightfully 68 CLIMATE. pleasant. Though there are sometimes heavy falls of dew during this season, the natives do not find it injurious to sleep out in the open air, which is quite customary with many of the poorer class- es, without any bed or covering. When the south wind prevails in summer, the heat is very oppress- ive; the atmosphere assumes a hazy appearance, the air has sometimes a disagreeable odour, and its effects on furniture and book-covers, which it cracks and warps, are very destructive. After this wind has lasted for a day or two, the air becomes quite still and confined, and the sensa- tion felt is exceedingly uncomfortable. It is well that this state never continues for more than three or four successive days, and that it is not of fre- quent occurrence. This wind, which passes over the arid plains of Africa, is not purified from the currupt miasma which it contains by crossing the sea, as the straits are so narrow between this is- land and that continent. The wind, which has procured a bad name for Malta by foreigners, is the south-east, usually called the Scirocco. It is most prevalent in Sep- tember, yet unfortunately is not confined to this month alone, but occurs occasionally through- out the year. Persons with diseased lungs suf- fer more or less from its consequences; and hence Malta is by no means a healthy place CLIMATE. 69 for such as are inclined to consumption. Stran- gers, in general, are affected during the prevalence of the Sirocco with great lassitude and debility, which indisposes the system, and renders it liable to suffer from dyspepsia. The natives, however, seldom complain of its bad effects on their con. stitutions, but more of the inconveniences which it brings to workmen and mechanics. Any thing painted when this wind blows will never set well, glue loses much of its adhesive property, bright metals become tarnished, and from the dampness of the atmosphere the pavement of the streets is sometimes quite wet. Though this wind has occasionally held out for a week together, it seldom lasts more than three days successively. The delightful appearance of the evening sky during summer is a phenomenon in the climate of Malta which deserves mentioning. A little before sun-set, and during the interval which elapses be- tween that and dark, the whole western horizon exhibits a beautiful yellow, tinged with a variety of hues, which is truly grand. It is not uncom- mon for light clouds to intermingle in the scene, and occasionally rapid flashes of lightning to con- tinue for several hours together, which, shining beneath the clouds, whose dark edges become more plain from the bright glare imparted to them, add an increasing grandeur to the prospect. 70 CLIMATE. Perhaps this sight is not exceeded in magnificence by any appearance in the atmosphere, except the Aurora Borealis of the North. The winter of Malta is very temperate, though the cold is sometimes exceedingly penetrating. This proceeds from the north wind, which is very prevalent during this season, and by the continued motion which it communicates to the air, inces- santly renews the volume of it by which we are surrounded, and causes a sensation of cold which is very acute. That this is the case is proved from the fact, that upon removing from its action, the effects are immediately diminished. The north-east wind, known by the name of Gregale, which blows directly into the mouth of the har- hour, has occasionally been sufficiently strong to drive a first rate man-of-war from her moorings. These gales sometimes come on so suddenly, that time is not given to make any provision against them; and consequently it is not an uncommon occurrence for vessels lying at anchor to be injured by the violence of the storm, although the har- bour is one of the safest in the Mediterranean. Rain falls very plenteously here in winter, and occasionally hail, but snow never. Very rarely does the rain continue for several days in success- ion, and it is quite common to enjoy delightful clear weather in the coldest season. Storms are CLIMATE AND POPULATION. 71 not frequent, and then not very violent, although there is in general much thunder during the winter. In cases when the claps are of long duration, and are known by their sound to be in the vicinity of the island, all the bells of the churches are made to ring. This, however, is generally delayed until the clouds containing the electrical fluid are in the zenith, from which, as it is natural to expect, they soon pass away and with them the lightning and its consequencss. This natural phenomenon is attributed by many of the superstitious natives to the holy character of the bells, which on account of being baptized, they imagine that their noise must certainly have some prevalence with Him who "rides upon the wings of the wind, and holds the lightnings in his fists.'" POPULATION. Number of— Impoverished state of — Causes of the fore- going: Improvidence of the people — Want of educa- tion — Bad system of teaching Mechanics — Ab- sence of a spirit of enterprise in the gentry. — Cha- racter of the people by a Spanish author. The island of Malta for its size contains a den- ser population than any other part of the habitable globe. Allowing 30,000 for Valetta, and Floriana, 72 POPULATION. it is calculated that the whole number of inhabi- tants amounts to 120,000 not including Gozo, which is reckoned at 18,000 more. According to this statement, it appears, that upon a given space of ground where England contains 152 souls, Malta contains nearly eight times the num- ber. The assurance of an easy subsistence is in general considered the most natural cause for the increase of the population of any country; but, in the present case, 1 do not think the axiom will hold good. Notwithstanding what has been said concerning the fertility of this island, it is after all only a rock, and incapable from its size to afford adequate means of support to so crowded a po- pulation. In these two facts, the disproportion- ate number of inhabitants to the extent of soil possessed, we must look for the cause of the pre- sent impoverished state of the island. It is true that the lack of the produce of a country may be compensated by manufactures and commerce; but of the former Malta has no resources, and her commerce, spite of every attempt to increase it, remains stationary, and has certainly very ma- terially failed during the last twenty or thirty years. In this respect, however, it is not alone; a general torpor has seized the trading world in in this quarter for some time back, the several POPULATION. 73 causes of which 1 do not intend, as I am unable to explain. In the report of the late Commissioners sent out to inquire into the grievances of the Maltese, they state the cause of the impoverished condition of the island to arise from "the improvidence of the people in multiplying their numbers beyond the demand for their labour." Nothing can be more true than this fact ; no sooner does a lad arrive at the state of puberty, than he begins to think of marriage before he has made any provision at all for maintaining a family. The present sys- tem of endowing females is the cause of the most distressing consequences, as in numerous cases it is the only attraction which a young woman has for an individual who seeks her as his wife. How- ever small the sum may be, very few are chosen but such as have something. This, when once in the hands of an idler, is soon spent in some hazardous project or speculation, if not in vice; and when he finds he can procure no moi*, either from his wife or her relations, he leaves her to her fate, either to be again received under her parents' roof, or to seek a living for herself and family in the best way she can. This is not an exaggerated picture of very many cases in Malta; and besides this, if the computation were made of the number of females at present on the island, 5 74 POPULATION. whose husbands have left them for a foreign land, I believe it would not fail to astonish. To the above, however, we may add the want of education, as another cause of the poverty of the island. The overplus population which finds an asylum in the Barbary States, in Egypt, Syria, and in Turkey, are chiefly of one class, consisting almost exclusively of labourers who have already more than satisfied the demand for their work, and are, consequently, many of them, even in a worse state than their poor countrymen at home. Were the case different, were those who emigrated from the island capable of under- taking different branches of labour, both of a scientific as well as of a mechanical nature, there would be an increasing request for their services, as there would be more numerous situations which they would be able to fill. Here perhaps it will not be out of place to mention the very bad system of training up trades- men and artisans which exists at Malta; as this also) in connection with education, must have a very important bearing upon the interests of a nation. Here, a lad is put into a mechanic's shop by his parents, without any kind of agreement how long he is to continue at his business, or with- out any particular requisition from the master he is about to serve. It is commonly understood, POPULATION. 75 that the boy is to learn the trade in the best way he can. There being no law on the subject, the apprentice is at liberty to leave his master just when he pleases, which often happens before he half knows his business, and then endeavours to set up for himself. Every one will see that such a plan is attended with many disadvantages, and calculated to repress improvement in the impor- tant branch of labour, the mechanics. Such tradesmen, also, emigrating from the island, can- not be expected to meet with that good fortune which they would do were they perfectly trained in their different branches of labour. It is to be regretted that something like our apprentice system has not yet been adopted in Malta; it is certainly much needed, and could not fail to be productive of good. Another cause for the poverty of the island lies in the entire want of a spirit of enterprise, so rele- vant of the interests of the lower orders of society. Very few of those who possess property think of laying it out in some way so as to benefit their country; but choose rather to suffer it to lie by at a sordid interest, or to rust in their coffers. Like the dog in the manger, they will not enjoy it themselves, nor suffer others to partake of it. It is worthy of remark, that the number of males in Malta is near equal to that of the females. 76 POPU LATION. This destroys the false idea, generally received, that in warm climates more girls are born than boys; as it is also opposed to the state of the po- pulation in many of the northern and western countries of Europe. This would doubtless be the case universally, according to the analogy of nature, if various causes did not operate to destroy its course. The comparative little emigration which takes place in Malta, and the temperance of the male inhabitants contribute to maintain this regular law of our world. "The Maltese are in general of an ordinary stature, strong, robust, and of a brown comple- xion ; one may easily recognise in their character the influence of the climate, and that mobility of sensation, gesture and features which characterize many people in the equinoxial regions of Africa. They are full of fire, and endowed with a pene- trating imagination; they possess very lively pas- sions, and are tenacious in their opinions, in their love and their hate. The action of a hot climate, beneath an almost continually serene sky, ren- ders their physical and moral character very expressive; they do not know how to conceal their real sentiments with the mask of convenien- cy; insomuch that there can be no where found men less disguised, and whose character can LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 77 be more easily guessed by their physiognomy." D'AvalosTom. i. p. 60,61, LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. Maltese language not derived from Phcenieian — At- tempts to reduce the Maltese to writing — Present system of National Education — Inconsistency of — Backwardness of the general mass of the people. Notwithstanding the many attempts which have been made to refer the present Maltese dia- lect back to a Phoenician original, by producing a few words and phrases which are correspond- ing in signification in both languages, the basis upon which the hypothesis is formed is too weak to sustain it against the abundant proof to the contrary. We shall not dwell upon the almost necessary impossibility which there exists against our coming to any solid conclusion on the sub- ject, from our inadequate knowledge of the Punic tongue, but shall draw our inferences from the language itself as it exists at the present day, which in its forms, phrases, construction and idiom proves it to be a dialect of the Arabic. We conceive, that if there are a few words which cannot now be referred back to this source, this fact does not destroy the abundant evidence 7R LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. which may be brought forth in the whole body of the language. That there are such words, we admit; but that these have not become corrupted in their etymology and pronunciation, cannot be proved any more than they can be shown to be a part or parts of the ancient Phoenician. The vernacular Maltese comprehends the complete Arabic alphabet, with the exception of some of the dentals; and the distinctive sound of the guttu- rals has been preserved pure in many villages of the country, and in Gozo. In Valletta this is not the case; several of the gutturals have been dropped, and the whole dialect is more corrupt, being mixed up with a greater portion of foreign words, especially Italian. Several attempts have been successively made by different persons, within the last thirty years, to reduce the Maltese dialect to writing; but these etfbrts having been chiefly the effect of private exertion, without any support or counte- nance from the government or the people, have all failed, whatever may have been the compara- tive excellence of each plan adopted. This unset- tied state of things, in regard to language, has ope- rated very much to the prejudice of education among the people. All instruction being com- municated in the Italian, the Maltese child can- begin his studies on a par with the children LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 79 of other countries, because he must first learn a language entirely different from its own, as a means of acquiring the knowledge he seeks after. Under these discouraging circumstances, it is no small proof of the natural abilities of the Maltese, that many of them have by their talents and ac- quirements raised themselves to a distinguished rank in literature and science. While this state of things exists, however, there can be little hopes of the mass of the people making any very con- siderable progress In respect of education. The mother tongue is so implanted into their nature, that centuries must elapse, or some great change take place in the common order of things, before any attempt to eradicate the language of the people can be successful. Some small efforts are now making to intro- duce the Arabic as the chief medium of commu- nicating instruction in the government schools; and if the ultimate object of this plan should be energetically followed up, in a different manner there can be no doubt of its success. To say nothing of the advantages which would accrue to the Maltese should they be put into possess- ion of so extensive and useful a language as the Arabic, it is the mother language of their own, and consequently must be much easier for their acquirement than any of the western **5 80 LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. languages, which are entirely different in their whole construction. The present plan brought into use is briefly this : a new alphabet has been formed for the Maltese dialect, consisting of Ro- man and several Arabic letters, in which the child- ren are to be instructed so as to be capable of reading ; this then is to serve as a medium of studying the Italian, the English, and the Arabic ! This is not all, the language used is such a com- pound of distorted Arabic and Maltese terms and phrases, that it forms quite a new dialect, which without considerable instruction no Maltese can understand ! ! Who will not at once see, that every attempt to instruct the generality of children, in so many different and opposite tongues, must be rendered futile. It is preposterous, to think of establishing any system for public education in which the instruction is to be communicated in no less than four languages. The time generally allowed for a child to remain at school will not even suffice to acquire a tolerable acquaintance with these; and when is he to make any progress in that useful knowledge which will make him a respectable and valuable member of society? If the Italian has obtained a partial footing in the town, it is an entire stranger in the country, and ought to be banished from the national system of education if it tends to increase the difficulties LANGUAGE AND EDUCATION. 81 and inconveniences which exist without its addi- tion. If by the present plan the Arabic is pro- posed to be the general language of the people, why are they to be encumbered with another, which will be of little use in such a case? And why teach the Maltese language ? The dialect is al- ready corrupt, and every effort to systematize it must be calculated to fix it more deeply in the minds of the children, when on the contrary, en- deavours ought to be made at the outset for im- proving and bringing it up to the standard of that language which is to be made the general lan- guage of the country. To do this in Malta would not be attended with much more difficulty than in Syria, Egypt or Barbary, where the written language is the classical Arabic, but the colloquial dialect, in many respects, not better than the Maltese. It is to be hoped that the present plan will be reformed before being carried to any con- siderable extent. The above circumstances have had their influ- ence in restraining the progress of education a- mong the people, which, generally speaking, is at a low ebb. In many of the country villages, all the learning which exists is confined to the clergy, very few besides being able to read or write. In the town, besides the University there is a Normal school for boys and girls, containing 82 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. upwards of 500 children, and several others kept by private individuals. Very lately, also, by the zealous and praiseworthy efforts of Mrs. Austiu, the lady of one of Her Majesty's Commissioners for Special Enquiry, four district schools have been formed in the country, which is to be hoped will be continued and be successful. Consider- ing the scanty means which the people enjoy of obtaining an education, we cannot wonder at their backward state, though we by no means intend to apply this remark universally; for, as we have said before, there are not a few among the Mal- tese who distinguish themselves by their literary attainments. MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. Native musical instruments — Poetical compositions — Songs — Maltese Proverbs, fyc. The Maltese are not very rich in native musical instruments; and in their choice seem to have preferred such as are more noisy with the inha- bitants of Arabia, than such as are more soft with the Arabs of northern Africa. Even these, however, are getting into disuse, and their place is being supplied by companies of blind fiddlers who are found almost in every village, and whose MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 83 performances, if exhibited within the hearing of a man acquainted with the science, would certainly put him into a position to serve as an exact coun- terpart of Hogarth's Enraged Musician. The tambarine, a species of bag pipe, the kettle-drum, a hollow tube about half a foot in diameter with a distended skin over one surface, and a round stick tied to the centre of it which is rubbed up and down with the hand, causing a most monoto- nous sound, * and several different shaped lyres, with from two to four strings, — form the native band of the Maltese country people. Of the above, the bagpipe or zaqq, as it is called, merits the most attention, as it is the most esteemed. This instrument is formed of an inflated dogskin, which is held under the left arm with the legs directed upwards, and having a mouth-piece by which the skin is rilled and a flute or pipe played with both hands affixed to it. This instrument is generally accompanied by the tambarine and a dancing company, who move their bodies in graceful evolutions or ridiculous gestures to the sound of the duet. The accompanying sketch may convey some better idea of this rustic amuse- ment. The Maltese have the peculiar talent for poetry * This instrument is called by the natives r abb aba or zuvzava. 81 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. which is natural to all those nations^who speak the Arabic language. The taste for this kind of composition has very much degenerated in the cities, but in the country it is met with in its ori- ginal purity of style and expression. I have often stood and listened to individuals seated upon two opposite trees, or engaged in some kind of labour, singing answers to each other in rhyme, without any previous meditation. This the natives call taqbeel. The subjects vary according to circum- stances, sometimes partaking of the nature of epic poetry, and sometimes of satire upon the faults or character of each. The tunes set to these are in general somewhat wild, as is the music of the Maltese in general, but a wildness which is not without its romantic beauty and harmony. In this respect, few will fail to admire the singing of the natives as they join in small companies, eacii taking a part, which they maintain throughout the whole performance. I here subjoin two songs for the amusement of the reader, with a rough English translation, in order that he may judge somewhat of the na- tive ideas in the composition of such amorous effusions. H ^feS.;- i r n ^ : ]c,\\ ha-m-na seyr in sref •):s.) . ^ ^- §i^ ?$^ i-gTu, lil<^k KV \t\ ja ?*i£f ; - I , - ^4 ^ ; %t -.- wm I-/ I /,/, Hnrkloti [ilefcAl !,i ja-ti in saBa*; u izoin niok ff rm-n.ab-ba liglu 4 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 85 SONG. Hanina seyr insiefer, Ja hasra ma niehdoksh migin, Lilek, Alia yatik es-sabar, U izoimnok fl'imhabba tighi. Izommok fl'imhabba tighi, Biesh deyyem tiftakar fiyya, Iftakar li yien habbeitek, Mindu kont chkeiken tarbiyya. Mindu kont chkeiken tarbiyya, Kalbi kolha ingibdet leik ; — Bl'ebda daul ma nista nimshi, Ghair bid-daul ta sbieh ghaineik ; Bid-daul ta sbieh ghaineik, Yien meshsheit il passi tighi; — Hanina seyr nsiefer, Ja hasra ma niehdoksh mighi. Meta niftakar li yiena seyyer, Dad-dulur sh' yigini kbir; K' Alia irid, O hanina! Ghad tgaudini u ingaudik. 86 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. Translation. Beloved, I'm about to leave you, I sigh that I take you not with me, May God give you now resignation, And preserve you secure in my love. — ■ And preserve you secure in my love, That you may ever remember me; — Remember, I always have loved you, Since the time I was but an infant. — Since the time I was but an infant, My heart has always been drawn after you; And I can walk in no other light, But the light of your beautiful eyes. — In the light of your beautiful eyes, I have always directed my steps; — Beloved I'm going to leave you, I sigh that I take you not with me. — How sore does the pain come upon me, When I think I must soon depart; But if Heaven be propitious, my dear, We shall yet enjoy one another. MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 87 The following verses, which were furnished me by a Maltese lady, I insert chiefly for the sake of giving the reader an idea of the manner in whicli matrimonial alliances are entered into by a por- tion of the town people. The four persons in- troduced in the song are, the young man, the hottdba, the mother of the young woman, and the young woman herself. In order to render the piece intelligible, it will be necessary to pre- mise, that it is not customary for a young man unacquainted with the lady with whom he has fallen in love, to declare his passion in person, nei- ther would he be allowed to enter into her pa- rents' house; but he employs a third, generally an old woman, who takes upon herself the office of endeavouring to bring about the match. This character is called a hottdba, and is always pos- sessed with an exquisite gift for flattery; a speci- men of which will be readily noticed in the song. 1 give a literal translation, in order better to pre- serve the native idiom and phraseology. song. Tridu tafu shbeiba sh' taghmel, Min fil ghodu sa fil ghashia, Taghmel il bokli f rasha, U tokghodlok fil gallaria. 88 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. Tokghodlok fil gallaria, Tibda taghmel in-namoor, Meta tara 1' ommha gey ya, Tibda tkoffu il maktoor. II giavni yibda tiela u niezel, Halli yara hem shi shieha, Yibda tiela min fuk s' isfel, Ghash mairidsh yibka bir-rieha. Intaka ma nanna shieha, Kallha; Mara tridsh takdini, Flusi ma nibzash ghalihom, Basta taghraf is-servini ? Sinyura, donni nafek, Kont chkeikuna tokghod hdeyya, Kem erfaitek, kem habbeitek, Kem ghazziztek geu ideyya. Sinyura, donni nafek, Yidirli ghandek ish-shbeibiet, Ghash kont ghaddeyya min hara, YidhirU raitha hdei il bieb. Sinyura gheidli sh' ghandek. Kem narak malinconata. Ara sh' kalu fuk binti, llli gia binti namorata. MUS[C, POETRY, AND SINGING. 89 Iskot, Sinyura, iskot, Ilsna ta nies tghid wisk shorti; Dika bintek tifla taiba, Min yihodha ikollu shorti. lnzel, binti, inzel, Hauna nanna trid tarak, Tinsab mara antica, Li b' kliemha tik-konsolak. Risposta yiena gibtlek, Ohra fees yiena irrid, Baghatni il mahbub ta kalbek, Li bil piena yinsab marid. Risposta inti gibtli, Ohra fees ma natiksh; Dana il giuvni ornmi tafu, B' zeugi niehdu ma tridnish. Translation. Intr. Would you know what a maiden does. From morning until evening? — She adorns her head with curls, And seats herself in the balcony. She seats herself in the balcony, And sets about making love ; When she sees her mother coming She begins hemming her handkerchief. 90 MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. The young man walks up and down, To see if the old woman is there, I le traverses (the street ) from one end to the other, As he does not wish to remain with the smell.* He meets with an old grandmother, And says; "woman will you help me, I care nothing about money, So as that you are able to serve me ? " ( The bargain is struck, and the brokeress (joes to the house of the young woman, and meets with the mother.) Hott. Madam, I think 1 know you, When quite little you lived near me, How oft 1 bore you, how much I lov'd you, How oft I fondled you in my arms. Madam, I think I know you, 1 think you have several maidens, For as 1 was passing through the street, 1 saw one standing at the door. Madam, tell me what ails vou, For you appear very melancholy? Moth. Do you know what they say of my daughter, That she is already in love. * A Maltese idiom for expressing failure in an under- taking. MUSIC, POETRY, AND SINGING. 91 Hutt. Be easy, Madam, be easy, People's tongues say many things; Your daughter is a good girl, Whoever takes her will gain a fortune. Moth. Come down, my daughter, come down, Here's a grandmother desires to see you, She is a very old woman, And with her words she will console you. ( The daughter descends, andlhc old woman addresses her. ) Hutt. A message I have brought you, And wish one hastily in return, For the beloved of your heart has sent me, Who with pain is now quite ill. Daugt. A message you have brought me, A hasty answer I will not give, For my mother knows this young man, And will not have him for my husband. Besides the above, the Maltese have also a large number of proverbs, or adages in rhyme, many of which preserve their strict Arabic origin- al. These are still often used in conversation, but without any new additions, as the taste for such compositions has greatly degenerated since the introduction of the Italian language. The late Sig. Vassalli published a collection of these 02 COSTUME. proverbs, some years ago, with an Italian transla- tion and explanatory notes, which, in the purity of their style and morals, their figurative and enigmatical forms, contain much of that good sense possessed by the forefathers of the Maltese. "The whole of these adages, maxims, sentences, aphorisms and phrases, which the natives have preserved from time immemorable, by uninter- rupted tradition, form a species of national code, sanctioned from time to time with the seal and authority of the events or experiences of this or that proverb, the truth of which is acknowledged as soon as uttered." costume. Dress of the Males — Dress of the females of the city — Neatness of — Costume of the country-women. In regard to the male population, the Maltese have in general adopted the Frank costume; but the native dress, which is still worn to some extent by the lower class of people in the town, is somewhat dissimilar, though not very peculiar. The chief difference is in the cap, which resembles a long bag made of wool, hanging down behind, and dyed with various colours. This article of- ten forms a receptacle for small articles which the wearer wishes to carry about with him, and CcYSf?/t& ///s/s/ COSTUME. 93 sometimes serves all the purposes of a purse. I observed the same kind of cap used among the Maronites of Mount Lebanon. The girdle round the loins is still in use among the Maltese of the lower order; that made of cotton is called a terha, that of silk a bushakka. With this the pantaloons are confined round the waist, and is generally three or four yards in length. There can be no doubt that this is a relic of the oriental costume, introduced into Malta by the Arabs. It is not common to see any in this dress with a jacket, its place being supplied by a sedria, or vest, which, in many cases, is ornamented down the front with several rows of round silver but- tons, as large as birds' eggs. At other times, instead of these, the buttons consist of large pieces of money, especially quarter-dollar pieces, and sometimes shillings with long shanks fastened on to them. A Maltese cuts a very fine figure when he is thus set off, or is in gdla, as they ex- press it, with a long curl hanging down each side of the face, and having his fingers covered with many massy rings, of which they are parti- cularly fond. At the present day, the sandals are not used except by the country people; but there can be no doubt that they formed a part of the ancient 04 COSTUME. native dress. These consist of two oblong pieces of untanned bull's hide, drawn round the foot with two strings of the same material, and are called korh. Some years ago, an old man used to sit by the gate of Porta Rcale, and it was worth while seeing the dexterity with which he shod the country people who applied to him. The whole was done in a few minutes; for the customer first laid his foot on the extended hide, and after taking the dimensions by just marking the circumference, the old man cut it off, and making four holes in each piece for ears, gave him a pair of strings, and all was over. Many of the working classes in the country, especially masons, wear over their shoulder what they call a khury, in which they take their pro- visions to town for the day, and carry it home laden with supplies for their family, in the even- ing when their labour is over. It is about three yards long and two feet wide, open in the mid- dle, so as to form a bag at each end. The ac- companying sketch will illustrate the above des- cription of the native dress of the Maltese males. As to the costume of the ladies of the towns, ] fully accord with the observation of a Jesuit, who passed through Malta in the latter end of the last century. He says, "leur demarche et leur habillement sont si modestes, qu'on les f/ Zaaw ss/ /•/*•** The island of Malta may be said to contain two principal cities, three towns, and twenty-t wo casals or villages scattered over a part of the country. Many of the latter, from their size, population and building might be termed towns; and a few have been dignified with that title by several of the Grandmasters. As, for instance, Casal Zebbug is sometimes called Citta Rohan; Casal Curmi, Citta Pinto; and Casal Zabbar, Citta Hompesh. The two principal cities are Valetta and Citt& Notabile, called also Citta Vecchia, and in Mal- tese Mdina, situate about the centre of the island. Borgo, Seuglea and Burmulo, the three chief towns, occupy the two promontories on the op- posite side of the harbour, towards the east of Valetta. In order to render the different descriptions as clear as possible, I shall class those objects which are most interesting and deserving of notice un- der separate heads, though by so doing, I may ###7 126 ITINERARY OF VALETTA. sometimes be found guilty of repetition. Valet- ta being the capital, I shall commence with it, including its suburbs and fortifications. DETAILS OF THE CITY OF VALETTA. Foundatioji of the city— Its situation — Streets — Houses — Mole — Way ehouses on — Health Office — Exte- rior Fortifications — Gates. Valetta is situated on the east side of the is- land, in Long. 14 30' 25" E. Lat. 35° 53' 4" N. It is built upon a promontory of land anciently called Shaab-er-Ras, the jutting out of the cafe. Before the arrival of the Order, the capital of the island was the Citta Notabile; and the present site of Valetta was occupied by a few huts, and de- fended by the fort of St. Elmo, which at that time was very insignificant compared with its present size and strength. The first stone of the new city was laid by the Grandmaster La Va- lette, on the 28th. of March 1566; and the whole was completed by his successor Pietro de Monte, on the 15th. of May 1571. The situation of Valetta is very convenient for commerce; the appearance of the town from the sea is delightful, nor does the interior produce the disappointment so common in towns of the o ITINERARY OF MALTA. 127 south of Europe. The streets are regular and generally well paved; but from the declivity on which some part of the city is built, manyof them are steep, with side-walks composed of stairs, which the author of the piece entitled Farewell to Malta, erroneously attributed to Lord Byron, recollected with no very pleasant associations, if we may judge from the line, * Adieu ye cursed streets of stairs." The town is kept remarkably clean, being swept every morning by the con- victs of the state prison. It is rather to be re- gretted, that it is so badly lighted by night :^r small lamp affixed to the corner of every alternate! street is all that is provided, and one is often in danger of falling over a heap of stones or rubbish piled up before some houses undergoing repairs; or, unless well acquainted with his way, liable to take a false step, and stumble down one of the sloping staircases. The houses are all built of stone, and very ge- nerally comprise three stories. Besides the win- dows opening into the street and yard, each dwelling has one or two balconies jutting out se- veral feet from the wall, and varying from six to twenty in length. These awkward protuberan- ces are sometimes open, and sometimes covered on the top ; and are supplied with glass windows which can be opened or shut at pleasure. How- 8 128 ITINERARY OF MALTA. ever much these serve to destroy the beauty of the external appearances of the buildings, they are very comfortable retreats for the inmates, both in summer and winter, as from them they can espy all that transpires in the street -without being exposed to the effects of either. The houses have all flat-roofed terraces, which serve the double purpose of being an agreeable resort for a walk, and a receptacle for the rain which falls during the winter; from whence it runs into the cistern, with which almost every dwelling is provided. In case rain should fail, water can be let into the cisterns through underground canals which communicate with the acqueduct. Such houses as do not possess this convenience are supplied by the public fountains, of which there are several in different parts of the city. The range of buildings situated on the mole of the Great Harbour, under the walls of the town, are chiefly warehouses of two stories high. Those which extend as far up as the Custom-house were built by the Grandmaster Raymond Perellos in the year 1712, for the accommodation of mer- chants; and are very convenient for this purpose, from their nearness to the sea. By the same was erected the building at the commencement of these magazines, which contains the lodge of the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 129 Marine Police, where the passports of all pas- sengers on their arrival are first taken, and their names registered in the books; they are after- wards deposited in the office of the Inspector General of Police, from whence they may be re- claimed after the persons have been guaranteed by some respectable British subject. This rule applies only to foreigners. The small chapel which stands at no great distance from the bottom of the stairs called Nix Mangiare was built by the same individual who founded the warehouses, and was intended for the use of persons on board of vessels in quarantine; from whence they might be spectators of the celebration of the mass by the officiating priest. The elevation of the host was signified by th e ringing of a small bell; at which signal the audi- ence all knelt down to worship. The style of its building, on a raised base, and with a very expo- sed front, was designed in order that the service might be more conveniently seen. It is dedica- ted to the Santissimo Salvatore. Proceeding a little further, on a somewhat raised platform, is a circular fountain, in the cen- tre of which is a fine bronze statue of Neptune, holding the trident in one hand, and the escut- cheon of the Grandmaster Alofio Wignacourt, by whom it was raised, in the other. This piece 130 ITINERARY OF MALTA. of art is the work of Giovanni Bologna, a pupil of Michaelangelo. The semi-circular row of rooms situate round this fountain was built by the Grandmaster Raymond Despuig, and intend- ed as a fish-market ; for which purpose it is at present used. The long excavated passage, leading from this division of the mole to that beyond the custom- house, was cut by the Grandmaster John P. Las- caris, and called after his name Lascaris Gate. The picturesque house above it, with the garden which stretches beneath the Marina Gate, was also built by him, and was resorted to by his knights for pleasure and diversion during the evening. The parterre which leads into the dwelling, form- ed by the terraces of the storehouses beneath, is very spacious, and forms a delightful walk with a good view of the harbour. The long range of warehouses beyond the custom-house, as far as the Calcara Gate, was also the work of Lascaris. Those just below the Calcara Gate were erected by the Grandmaster Zondadari. Farther up still are nineteen other magazines, each two stories high, and very spa- cious. These were built by Emmanuel Pinto, and intended for an arsenal. In the centre of the range is a bronze bust of the founder with a Latin inscription. At present these are used as Ordnance ITINERARY OF MALTA. 131 stores. The mole was begun by Zondadari, and completed duriDg the reign of Manoel de Vilhe- na A. D. 1726. The fortifications which surround the town are very high, and many of them formed partly of the native rock; the walls measure about fifteen feet wide, and are composed chiefly of the common limestone of the country. Their whole circumference is two miles and a half. The ditch which crosses the peninsula from the Quarantine to the Great harbour, cutting off all communication with the city, is about 1000 feet in length, 120 feet deep, and as many wide; this is crossed by five bridges: one before the prin- cipal gate, called Porta Reale, and the others connected with the covered ways leading from St. James's and St. John's cavaliers. These two fortresses flank the chief entrance into the town, and command the wlvole country before, and the city in the rear. One is at present unoccupied; St. James's to the left contains a detachment of the British garrison, and a part of the Malta Fencible regiment. Each is capable of quarter- ing five hundred men. Beyond the counterscarp are many outworks and glacis built in the same massy style, and well supplied with cannon, rendering the city one of the best defensible in the world. One would *S 132 ITINERARY OF MALTA. imagine that all these fortifications must require a great force to man them properly; yet, it was calculated by the Cavalier Foulard, that 12,000 troops would suffice for the defence of the port, and the security of the walls. During the exist- ence of the Order, the knights of each Language had a particular post assigned to them in case of an attack. The division was as follows: to the Knights of Provence, The rampart of St. John, with its cavalier. Auvergne, St. Michael. France, ...... St. James, with its cavalier. Italy, St. Peter and Paul. Arragon, St. Andrew. England, Platform of St. Lazarus. Germany, Rampart of St. Sebastian. Castile, .... Sta. Barbara. The city is closed by three gates: Porta Reale, which is the chief entrance from the country ; Porta Marsamuscetto from the Quarantine har- bour, and the Marina Gate from the Great har- bour. Besides the above, there are two sally- ports: one leading from the outer walls of fort St. Elmo, and the other before the rampart of ITINERARY OF MALTA. 133 St. Lazarus, which is at present open for the con- venience of those who live on the opposite side of the Quarantine harbour. Here they can take boats and cross over as far as Sliema or Fort Tigne until sunset, when it is closed for the night. This passage is called the Jews' Sally-port. The principal street of the city is Strada Reale, which extends from the gate of the same name, as far as the castle of St. Elmo; a distance of three quarters of a mile. The chief streets which run parallel with this are: Strada Forni. Strada Stretta. . . . Mercanti. . . . Zecca. ... St. Paolo. . . . Sta. Ursola. The principal cross-streets are : Strada Mezzodl. Strada Vescovo. . . . Brittanica. . . . San Cristoforo. . . . St. Giovanni. . . . SanDomenico. . . . Sta. Lucia. . . . Teatro. Strada San Nicola. We shall commence our details by describing THE CASTLE OF ST. ELMO. This fortress is built on the extremity of the peninsula of land which separates the two chief harbours of the island. The present site of St. Elmo was anciently called Delia Guardia; as **8 134 ITINERARY OF MALTA. here a watch was constantly kept to notice the entrance of all vessels into both harbours. Here also was a small chapel dedicated to St. Eras- mus or St. Elmo, the tutelar saint of seamen; from which the fort derives its name. The fort was first erected by order of the viceroy of Sicily, on the occasion of an attack of the Turks in 1488. When the knights of Rhodes took possession of Malta, they soon saw the importance of hav- ing this point well fortified, and after an invasion of the Turks, when it was first projected to build anew city on Mount Shaab-er-Ras, by order of the Grandmaster Jean D' Omedes, in the year 1552, this fortress was much enlarged, and destined to form the citadel of the town. The work was carried on and completed under the direction of the Grand Prior of Capua; masons and other workmen were brought over from Sicily for the purpose. In 1565, the eighth year of the reign »of La Valette, Solyman, enraged at the seizure of a Turkish gallion belonging to the chief black eu- nuch of his seraglio, vowed the destruction of Malta; and for that purpose, destined a formida- ble armament under Dragut, the admiral of the Algerine fleet, which appeared off the island in the month of May. The first point of attack de- termined on by Solyman's general was St. Elmo, ITINERARY OF MALTA. 135 which was usually garrisoned by sixty men, under the command of one knight ; but such was the importance of the place, that it was thought ex- pedient to add a reinforcement. Accordingly, sixty knights and a company of Spanish infantry were sent to support it. On the 25th. of the same month the Turkish artillery began to batter the fort both from the sea and land. In a few days a breach was ef- fected, and a most bloody contest ensued, which must soon have ended in the entire destruction of so small a garrison, had not fresh supplies of troops continually arrived during the night, from Borgo, in boats, which took back the wounded from the fort. The ravelin was next stormed by the besiegers, and fell into their hands after a loss on their part of about 3000 men; but insensible to this loss, they continued the attack with unexampled ardour. In the mean time the courage of the garrison was unabated; but see- ing that the ravelin was taken, the fort exposed, the greater part of the artillery dismounted, the ramparts in ruins, with but very few soldiers to defend them, they deputed a knight to wait upon the Grandmaster to request that they might evacuate the fort. La Valette, though secretly deploring the fate of so many brave men who had fallen, yet, knowing the importance of the 136 ITINERARY OF MALTA. place, would not consent to its abandonment on the most urgent entreaties from many of the Order. By a stratagem which he formed, he raised the emulation and jealousy of the peti- tioners, who were now determined to die rather than yield up their posts. On the 16th. of June, a general assault was made by the enemy, and the walls were laid even with the rock on which they were built. The Turks now entered the ditch, where a fierce engagement took place; for, while a continual fire was kept up from both sides, the parties grappled with each other, after they had broken their pikes in the contest. The assault continued for six hours, when the enemy began to give way, and sounded a retreat after having lost 3000 men. Seventeen knights perished in the breach, and 300 soldiers were either killed or wounded. A reinforcement of 150 men from Borgo, who voluntarily offered themselves for the service, was now sent over to the fort; but this was the last time such assistance could be afforded. The Turkish commander managed to land a force on the opposite side, at the Renella creek, which hindered any boat from crossing over to the help of the besieged. On the 2 1st. three assaults were made, and were as often repulsed, until night put a stop to the contest. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 137 On the following day the assault was renewed by day-break, and after defending the breach for four hours, only sixty men remained to man it. At 11 o'clock, the Janissaries made themselves masters of the cavalier, and the Turkish com- mander entered the fort. Not one knight was left alive, and the few remaining soldiers perish- ed in the breach. The loss of the enemy is es- timated at 8000, while the Order lost 300 knights and about 1300 soldiers. The inhuman Turk, wishing to revenge the death of his troops, ordered a search to be made among the dead and wounded for the knights, whose hearts he had ripped out, and after cutting their breasts in the shape of a cross, commanded them to be set afloat on boards, designing that the tide should carry them over to St. Angelo towards Borgo. By way of reprisal, La Valette ordered all the prisoners to be put to death, and loading his cannon with their still bleeding heads, fired them into the enemy's camp. In the following year, after the reimbarkment and defeat of the Turkish expedition, when the first stone of the city of Valetta was laid, the Fort of St. Elmo was repaired and fortified, and built in a more regular form than it was before. In the year 1687, under the Grandmaster Carafa, the fortress was almost rebuilt, and in the 138 ITINERARY OF MALTA. commencement of the eighteenth century, the surrounding bastions were added by the Grand- master Rairaondo de Perellos e Roccaful. These bastions, as also the fort, are built of a very hard limestone, called by the natives zoncor, and are well supplied with bombs and cannon, and other pieces of artillery. On the angles of the ramparts which command the entrance into both harbours are two turrets, formerly intended for the pur- pose of watching the vessels which entered and left the harbour. At present, the entrances to these are closed up with two marble slabs, one bearing an inscription to the memory of Admiral Sir A. Ball, once governor of Malta, below which are interred his remains surrounded by an iron railing; and the other in memory of Sir Ralph Abercrombie, whose embalmed body is enclosed in a barrel within the turret, just as it was brought from Aboukir. From this circumstance, the ram- parts to the west are called after the name of the former, BalVs bastions, and those to the East, Abercrombie s bastions. From the watch-tower surmounting the fort vessels may be seen at a great distance; 'the quality of the sail in sight is marked by different signals, and the points from which they are com- ing may be known by the position in which these signs are placed, on a stand prepared for the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 139 purpose. This custom existed in the time of the Order, and is continued to the present day. Men-of-war are signified by two balls suspended on a small pole, a packet by one, and a merchant vessel by a small square white flag. The treble row of magazines, nineteen on each story, now forming a barrack for two regiments of the line, was erected, under the auspices of the Grandmaster Emmanuel Pinto, and intended for store-houses of ammunition for the Order, and a safe asylum for females in case of a siege. These magazines are bomb proof, and are built within the walls, under the western wing of the Fort, from a design by the Cavalier Tigne. The terrace of this building is well paved, and forms a delightful walk, enjoying an extensive view of the sea. In the square, in front of the barracks, is a fine fountain, surmounted by four large stone shells, from which the water was formerly made to spring. Over the two gates which open the descent to the square, were placed the arms of the Grandmaster Pinto, surrounded with warlike trophies and other ornaments. Those on the north-western side have been thrown down ; but those opposite, towards the town, are still to be seen, though somewhat destroyed by the hand of time. The fort of St. Elmo is at present garrisoned 140 ITINERARY OF MALTA. by English Artillery, and a small detachment of infantry. The quarters which they occupy are very healthy; those on the walls are open to the air, and those below are built with spacious corridors along the ranges of rooms. There was a small chapel in the fort, which is now used for a different purpose. The light-house, which rises from one of the angles, has lately been im- proved by the English Government. Since the year 1565, when St. Elmo unhappily fell into the hands of the Turks, but was afterwards retaken by the knights, the fort was siezed upon by a mob of priests and malcontents amounting to between three and four hundred persons. This event took place during the short reign of the Grandmaster Francis Ximenes de Taxada; but the conspirators were soon obliged to aban- don their position. On being seized by the Bailiff de Rohan, who had the charge of the attack, some were executed, whilst others were either ban- ished or imprisoned. The next object of interest to which I would direct the attention of the traveller is the PALACE. It was the original intention to erect a resi- dence for the Grandmaster of the Order on the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 141 site now occupied by the Auberge de Castile; but P. de Monte preferred the present spot, situated on the most level part of the town, with a spa- cious square in the front, called Piazza St. Gior- gio. The ensemble of the exterior presents nothing striking, the whole forming a pile of unadorned architecture, about three hundred feet square, surrounded on every side by four of the principal streets, and almost enclosed on three with a line of open and covered balconies. It has two principal entrances on the front, each opening into an open court, and one in the centre of the three remaining sides. That on the back is never opened, on account of the stalls of the market, which are fixed up the whole length of the wall, and which not only give the building a very mean appearance, but destroy a great part of the street, with the nuisance necessarily atten- ding such a place of public resort. It is to be regretted, that another spot has not yet been se- lected for a market, and its present locality put to some other and cleaner purpose. The interior of the Palace was very much im- proved by the Grandmaster Emmanuel de Pinto. It consists of a lower and upper story, each con- taining a range of apartments running round the building, and another transversely, which divides the space within into two almost equal divisions. 142 ITINERARY OF MALTA. The court to the left is by far the most spacious, and is surrounded by a portico formed with arches, covering a fountain opposite the entrance, sur- mounted with a statue of Neptune fixed in the wall behind. In the other yard, which communi- cates with the former, is also a fountain, and a racket-court, erected by the late governor for the amusement of the officers of the garrison. The upper story consists of numerous elegant apartments and spacious halls, embellished with views commemorative of the battles of the Order, executed by Matteo da Lecce. Some of the paint- ings are of a superior workmanship, and will well repay a more than cursory examination. Among the several masters whose genius adorns these walls are, Caravaggio, Giuseppe d' Arpino, and Cavalier Favray. In the Waiting Room, at the end of the hall as you ascend the chief stairs, are to be seen productions of Busuttil and Car- uana, two Maltese artists. Their principal pie- ces represent St. George and the Dragon, St. Michael, St. Peter, Mary Magdalen, and ^Eneas. Most of the very ancient paintings in the palace were placed here by the Grandmaster Zondadari, and are chiefly scriptural illustrations. In the corridor leading to the Armoury is the entrance to a room hung with tapestry of very superior workmanship. The drawings on these ITINERARY OF MALTA. 143 hangings represent scenes in India and Africa, and a great collection of natural history. This article was brought from France about 135 years since, yet the colours still look fresh and new. The most interesting sight in this building, and one well worthy the attention of the stranger, is the Armoury. This occupies a large saloon, extending the whole length of the building, con- taining the armour, and a great many warlike weapons belonging to the Knights of Malta, with numerous trophies of their splendid victories. The principal musketry was manufactured at the Tower of London, and placed here by the English Government, when that of the Order was remo- ved. The number of regular arms at present in this place is as follows : 19,555 Muskets and bayonets. 1,000 Pistols. 30,000 Boarding pikes. 90 Complete coats of armour for mounted knights. 450 Cuirasses, casques, and gauntlets for infantry. The last mentioned armour is arranged along the upper part of the room in regular order, with their respective shields, on which is portray- ed the white cross of the Order on a red field. The armour for the mounted cavaliers and men- 144 ITINERARY OF MALTA. at-arms is of different kinds, some burnished, and other painted black and varnished. The complete suits are placed upright on stands, and posted up along the rows of muskets, at certain distances from each other, looking like so many sentinels, and giving a very sombre appearance to the whole room. A trial was once made of the force of re- sistance of one of these suits, and several musket- balls were discharged against it at sixty yards distance, which only produced a very shallow concavity. This piece of armour is still preserved with the rest. At one end of the room is a complete coat of black armour standing about seven feet high, and three and half wide. It is not very probable that this has been often used; the helmet alone-weighs thirty-seven pounds. Close by the above is an open case, in which may be seen many curious specimens of musket- ry, pistols, swords, daggers, &c. chiefly trophies taken by the knights in their engagements with the Turks. The sword of the famous Algerine general Dragut is preserved among these spoils. Before this case is a cannon made of tarred rope, bound round a thin lining of copper, and covered on the outside with a coat of plaster painted black. This is a curious specimen of an- cient warfare, and was taken from the Turks ITINERARY OF MALTA. 145 during one of their attacks upon the city of Rhodes. It is about five feet long, and three inches in the caliber. At the other extremity of the room is the com- plete annour of the Grandmaster Alofio Wigna- court, beautifully enchased with gold; above which is a drawing of the same, armed cap-a-pie, a copy from a master-piece of the famous Cara- vaggio which is in the Dining-room. Several parts of the walls are covered with many curious specimens of ancient warlike im- plements. Here one may see cross-bows, maces, coats of mail, javelins, battle-axes, and various other instruments of bloodshed and death, which were wielded in days of yore by those who lonsr since have finished their warfare, and now sleep silently in the grave. The man of reflection cannot fail to be affected with the vanity of ambition, as he examines these relics of the prowess of by-gone years. Is this all that remains of so much anxiety and love of power? "How mean are these ostentatious me- thods of bribing the vote of fame, and purchasing a little posthumous renown!" "How are the mighty fallen, and the weapons of war perished!" Of the one it may be said : " A heap of dust alone remains of thee, Tis all thou art, and all the proud shall be ;" — 9 146 ITINERARY OF MALTA? while the other serves for the decoration of a palace, and the momentary entertainment of a passing stranger. On the most elevated part of the Palace is the Torretta; a small quadrangular tower, from whence vessels of war are signalized. In the lower part of this building were formerly pre- served the treasures of the Order; among w T hich was the sword, shield, and golden belt of Philip II. King of Spain, sent by him as a present to the Grandmaster La Valette. At present this forms the quarters of the Governor's Aide-de-champ. I must not take leave of the Palace without leading the stranger to the Government chapel; but in order to do this, he must follow me from the highest to the lowest part of the building, in a secluded spot, to the left of the chief entrance. It is a long room capable of accommodating about three hundred persons, and fitted up with pews, the greater part of which belong to per- sons employed by the Government, and the re- mainder let out to hire. The only part of the chapel where a stranger may find a sitting, with- out intruding upon the premises of another, is the end of the room, where hearing is almost impossible. It is certainly a disgrace to the Bri- tish Government to have occupied this island for thirty-eight years, and to have made no better ITINERARY OF MALTA. 147 provision for the public worship of her sub- jects; whilst in Italy, and in several parts of the east, under a foreign power, there have been edifices erected for this purpose. It is not per- haps generally known, that the British Govern- ment owns the church of St. John, and that of the Jesuits, besides several other chapels in dif- ferent parts of Valetta, which are at present in the hands of the Maltese, the local administration continuing to pay for the expenses and repairs connected with them.* Now, while we admit that justice demands an equality of privileges to servants of every denomination under Govern- ment, we confess that we can see no justice in thus ceding up to one party, what without dis- pute appertains as justly to the other. Under these circumstances, the stigma upon the British nation is greater, that they have not a convenient place in which their Protestant subjects may at- tend public worship after their own form. After having examined all that is interesting in the Governor's Palace, we shall next notice the * According to the account published in the Malta Government Gazette, the amount of " Repairs in St. John's Cathedral, and several chapels belonging to Go- vernment," was in the year 1836, £113. 3*. 7rf; and in )837 t £170. 9s. Id. 148 ITINERARY OF MALTA. AUBERGES OF THE KNIGHTS OF MALTA. There was a palace or inn for each language of the Order where all the members, whether knights, serving brothers, professed or novices, equally eat. The Commanders seldom went thither; indeed those who were possessed of a commanderv worth two thousand Maltese dol- lars could not be admitted; neither could the servants -at -arms, if they had a commandery worth one thousand crowns. The chief of each inn was called the Pillier, and he received either a sum of money, or the equivalent in grain from the public treasury, for the provision of the mem- bers of his inn. The rest of the expenses were paid by himself, for which he was indemnified by the first vacant dignity in his language. In these edifices the knights of each nation not only eat, but assembled together for the purposes of consultation, and the transaction of business. Such as preferred residing in their respective inns to having private houses of their own were per- mitted to do so; the same privilege was enjoyed by the brother chaplains, and the brother pages, in the service of the Order. The superior of every language was dignified with a distinctive title, to which were annexed ITINERARY OF MALTA. 149 certain functions, which we shall notice in our description of each inn. Auberge de Provence. The superior of this auberge was denominated the Grand Commander ; who, by virtue of his office was perpetual president of the common treasury, comptroller of the accounts, superin- tendant of stores, governor of the arsenal, and master of the ordnance. He had the nomination (subject to the approbation of the Grandmaster and council) of all officers from the different lan- guages ; and to this he added the power of ap- pointing persons to the various places of trust in the church of St. John, and in the Infirmary. The Auberge de Provence is situated in Strada Reale; it is a fine building, with a plain but im- posing facade. The lower apartments are at present appropriated for the sale of goods by auction, the office of one of the public auctioneers^ &c; the upper rooms are let to the Malta Union Club. Besides the chapel which this language owned in the cathedral of St. John, it possessed another separate church, as did also several of the other languages. That of Santa Barbara belonged to the Knights of Provence ; it is situated a little higher up than the auberge, in the same street, *9 150 ITINERARY OF MALTA. on the opposite side. This chapel is at present made use of by the inhabitants. The next in order is the Auberge iV Auvergne. The head of this inn was called the Grand Mar- shal; he had the military command over all the Order, excepting the grand crosses or their lieu- tenants, the chaplains, and other persons of the Grandmasters household. He entrusted the standard of the Order to that knight whom he judged most worthy such distinction. He had the right of appointing the principal equerry; and when at sea, not only commanded the general of the gallies, but the grand admiral himself. This auberge is even more simple in its struc- ture than the former; and occupies a site opposite the side square of St. John's church, in Strada Reale. It is at present appropriated for the civil courts, and the tribunals of appeal and com- merce. Auberge of Italy. The superior of this language was styled the Admiral. In the Grand Marshal's absence, he had the command of the soldiery equally with the seamen; he also appointed the comptroller and ITINERARY OF *IALTA. 151 secretary of the arsenal, and when he demanded to be named to the generalship of thegallies, the Grandmaster was obliged to propose him to the council, which was at liberty to appoint or to re- ject him at pleasure. This auberge is situated in Strada Mercanti, opposite to the Auberge de Castile. Over the entrance is a bronze bust of the Grandmaster Ca- rafa, with his coat of arms, and many trophies and ornaments of white marble, said to have been cut from a large pillar which once stood in the temple of Proserpine in the Citta Notabile. Be- low the bust is the following inscription : Gregorio Carafe Principi Optimo, belli pacisqae artibus maximo post Ottomanicam classem dudu suo bis ad Hellespontum profligatam, relatasque XI. quinquerenium manubiat ad summum Hierosolymitani Ordinis regimen evecto Itala equestris natio Magistrali munere sceculo amplius viduata augustam banc effigiem reparatce majestatem indicem />. D. A. D. MDCLXXXIII. To this language belonged the small church of Santa Catarina which adjoins it, having a small **9 152 ITINERARY OF MALTA. platform in front, enclosed with an iron railing. The principal painting in this church is that re- presenting Sta. Catarina; a good original by the Cav. Calabrese. The Auberge of Italy is at present occupied by the Civil Arsenal and the Government Printing- office. Opposite to this building is the Auberge de Castile. The chief of this inn was dignified with the title of Grand Chancellor. It belonged to his office always to present the Vice-chancellor to the council ; and his presence was likewise neces- sary whenever any bulls were stamped with the great seal. Those who assumed this dignity were obliged to know how to read and write. This is the largest auberge in the city, and occupies a very delightful situation close under the walls of the ditch, commanding an extensive view of the country beyond. It has three en- trances; that to the front is ascended by a grand semicircular pyramidal staircase, and is sur- mounted with a great display of ornamental sculpture, consisting chiefly of warlike trophies, arms, musical instruments, &c. In the centre is a marble bust of the Grandmaster Pinto, with the following inscription carved on the base: ITINERARY OF MALTA. 153 Em. uc Seren. Princ. F. D. Emmanuel Pinto De Fonseca, Mogisteri sui anno IV. To the knights of this language appertained the Church of St. James in Str?.da Mercanti; a very neat specimen of architecture, ornamented in a very chaste and simple style. This church, though but seldom used by them, is also in the hands of the Maltese. The Auberge de Castile is at present occupied by officers of the English Garrison. Auberyv de France. The superior of this inn, during the existence of the Order, was called the Grand Hospitaller. He had the direction of the hospital, and ap- pointed the Overseer and Prior to the infirmary, and also ten writers to the council. The officers who filled these employments were changed every two years. The Auberge de France is situated in Strada Mezzodi, and is a plain, but commodious build- ing. It is at present the residence of the Com- missary General. 154 ITINERARY OF MALTA. Auberge of Arragon. The title of the superior of this inn was the Draper, or the Grand Conservator. He was charged with every thing relative to the Conser- vatory, to the clothing, and to the purchase of all necessary articles, not only for the troops, but also for the hospitals. This building occupies a small square, with the front opening into Strada Vescovo. It is now the private residence of the chief Secretary to Government. Auberge of England, and Anglo-Bavarian. The head of this establishment was dignified with the title of the Turcopolier; he had the command over the cavalry, and the guards sta- tioned on the coast. While the Language of England existed, their inn was the building which fronts the square be- fore the small church of Sta. Catarina of the Italians on the one side, and Strada Reale on the other; the greatest part of it is now occupied by a large private bakery. After the Reforma- tion, when all the English commanderies were ITINERARY OF MALTA. 155 confiscated by order of Henry VIII. this language ceded up its rights, and was succeeded by the Anglo-Bavarian, whose inn stands on the plat- form of St. Lazarus, facing the entrance into the Quarantine harbour. This building is very plain in its structure; and is at present occupied by officers of the British garrison. Auberge of Germany. The Grand Bailiff of the Order was the title given to the superior of this inn. His jurisdiction comprised all the fortifications of the Old City, and the command of the Castle of Gozo. This lodge is situated in Strada Ponente, and forms at present the private residence of the Chief Justice of the island. Having noticed all the Inns of the Order, we shall next direct the attention of the stranger to ST. JOHN S CHURCH. This edifice holds the first rank among the numerous churches and convents of Malta. It was built during the reign of the Grandmaster La Cassiera, about the year 1576, and was subse- quently enriched by the donations of the Grand- masters who succeeded him; especially by 156 ITINERARY OF MALTA. Nicholas Cotoner and Emmanuel Pinto, and likewise by several of the sovereigns of Europe. The church was consecrated by D. Ludovico Torres, Archbishop of Monreal; and at the first general chapter held at Malta, a separate chapel was assigned to the knights of each language. The facade is very clumsy, and the ensemble quite monotonous. The building which adjoins the church on the right was formerly the resi- dence of the Prior of the Order; that to the left was tenanted by others of the clergy belonging- to the establishment, and includes several apart- ments, in which were preserved the treasures of the church. These were mostly all seized by the French during their short occupation of the island. The interior is of an oblong form ; the upper- most part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculpture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the bap- tism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The above was from a design by the famous Maltese artist Melchior Caffa, and completed after his death by Bernini. The se- micircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings illustrative of the life of the above mentioned apostle, by the Cavalier Mathias Preti, surnamed the Calabrese, by whom most of the paintings of the church were executed. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 157 At present they are much defaced, and are fast losing their primitive beauty. This distinguished artist is buried before the entrance into the vestry. He died in January 1699. The pavement is composed of sepulchral slabs worked in mosaic with various coloured marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights, and other servants of the Order, and bear each an appropriate epitaph", or rather a panegyric on the virtues of the deceased. The grand altar which stands at the uppermost part of the nave is very sumptuous, and deserves notice on account of the various coloured marble, and other valuable stones of which it is con- structed. Before it, on either side, on a raised pavement, stands a chair covered with a rich ca- nopy of crimson velvet : that to the right is oc- cupied by the bishop, and the one on the left is destined for the sovereign of the island, over which is placed the escutcheon of Great Britain. Close by the latter is a seat prepared for the Governor of the island. The chapels of the different languages of the Order, which run parallel with the nave, form the two aisles, and are very splendidily decorated. The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome 158 ITINERARY OF MALTA. in the interior, and are very profusely carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view as you pass down the nave. The first arch, on the right hand as you enter the church, forms a passage into the Oratory, or Chapel of the Crucifixion. This was set apart for the worship of the clergy, during the existence of the Order; and is now used for the same pur- pose. There are several fine paintings in this chapel, especially one behind the altar of the Beheading of John, the work of Michael-Angelo Caravaggio. The roof is remarkably chaste, and is not so profuse in gilded ornament as many other parts of the building. From this chapel a flight of stairs leads down to a subterraneous apartment, where there is a room in which stands a rustic altar. The floor covers several vaults, which were destined for the interment of Com- manders of the Order. The second arch covers the chapel of the Por- tuguese Knights. Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side walls are two other paintings representing some traditionary scenes \1( OLA COTONFR I..MMWI lil. UK VI1.HKN* ITINERARY OF MALTA. 159 in the life of that apostle. In this chapel are tw o mausoleums: one of Emmanuel Pinto, surmount- ed with his portrait in mosaic, and a large marble representation of Fame ; the other, of Manoel de Vilhena, is by far the most costly. The whole of the latter is of bronze, sustained by two lions of the same material. On a tablet beneath his bust is an alto-relievo group, representing the Grand- master giving directions concerning the construc- tion of Fort Manoel, the plan of which is spread out before him by one of the knights. The ac- companying sketches will give some idea of these monuments. The third arch forms the entrance into the church from the eastern side, and contains no al- tar. The roof and walls, however, are carved and gilded in the same manner with the rest. The fourth arch leads into the chapel of the Spanish Knights. Over the altar is a painting of St. George; those on the side walls represent the trial and martyrdom of St. Lawrence. In this chapel are the mausoleums of four Grand- masters: Martin de Redin, Raphael Cotoner, Pe- rillos e Roccaful, and Nicolas Cotoner. The two last mentioned are very grand. That of Rocca- ful is surmounted by a fine copper bust, with a figure on each side as large as life, one represent- ing Justice, and the other Charity. The whole 160 ITINERARY OF MALTA. is adorned with warlike weapons and armour cut in white marble, and exhibiting a very imposing appearance. That of Nicolas Cotoner is equally- grand ; the monument is sustained by two slaves in a bending posture, one representing a Turk and the other an African; a very graphic delineation of the false views of Gospel liberty which formed the basis of all the crusades. The fifth arch leads into the chapel of the Lan- guage of Provence. The paintings over the altar represent the crucifixion of St. Sebastian; and the side drawings are also illustrations of some parts of the same history. The mausoleum of the Grandmaster Gersan is very simple, consist- ing of a black marble inscription surmounted with an alabaster bust. The sixth and uppermost arch leads into the small chapel of the Virgin. This, however, is not open to the nave, being covered with the benches which form the choir. The altar in this chapel is surrounded with a balustrade of massy silver posts, placed along a row of low marble pillars which extend the whole breadth of the room. Enclosed within this, on the side walls, are three silver plates containing the folio winginscriptions, with a bundle of keys suspended to each. These as may be seen from the writing, were taken as trophies from the Turks by the Knights of Malta. KWVIONDO l>K 1'KKKI LPS li'V KOCAl'l'LI. M M ITINERARY OF MALTA. 161 1. Deiparas Virgin* ac Divo Baptists tutelari Castri Passava in Pelo- poneso a militibus Hieroso nis vi- capto sub F. la. Dublot viverio triremium prafecto anno salu. hum*. MDCI. die XVIII, Aug. men- sis F. Alofius 1 ignacurtius M. Magister tunc primum sui regiminis annum agens has opjridi duces ac signa Turcica memories ac pietatis ergo consecravit. 2. Anno post captum Passava pjusdem viverii ejusdemu*. mentis Aug. felicitate idib\ or to jam sole excisis port is ac magno militum impetu muris per scalas superatis capto etiam Hadrymeto urbes in Africa vulgo Hamameta idem Mag. Alofius eid. Em. Virgini Matri ac D. Baptists quorum auspiciis h&c gesta sunt pro gratiarum actione hoc monumentum posuit. 162 ITfNERARY OF MALTA. 3. Duo Castra ad custodiam Corinthiaci sinus in ejus faciU. a barbaris ultimo constructa idem Alofius quo matris tradu sociali bello ad- versus Selimum Milesolim pugnave- rat, nunc M. Mag. an. sui principat.' III. et Fascanio Cambriano classis prefec- to a suis capta diripuit. Ingentib.* ad LXX tormentis inter alia hue hide ad- vectis tantcB igitur victoria monumen- ta S. Victori cui auspiciis die illi sacro earn acceptam refer at ac Deipara dedicavit. To the left hand, on entering the church, is a splendid copper mausoleum of the Grand- master Zondadari. The whole is supported by a marble base, and flanked with two fine pillars of the same material. The metal statue of the knight, as large as life, in a reclining posture, and the various ornaments which surround it, are very grand, and may be regarded as a first rate pro- duction of art. Walking down the left aisle, the first arch leads into the vestry, in which are several paintings ; among them are the portraits in length of the MAKC \.\ ZOMMOXHIO ITINERARY OF MALTA. 163 Grandmaster Pinto, La Cassiera, Perillos and Nicolas Cotoner. The second chapel is that of the Knights of Austria. The-altar piece represents the Adora- tion of the Wise Men; the pieces on the side walls illustrate the Murder of the Innocents, and the Birth of our Saviour. The third arch forms the western entry into the church. The walls of this recess are covered with small and neat sculpture. The fourth chapel is that of the Italian Knights; the walls are ornamented much in the same manner as the former. There are in this chapel two fine drawings of St. Jerom aDd Man- Magdalen, said to be the work of the famous Ca- ravaggio. The painting over the altar represents the espousals of the infant Jesus with St. Ca- therine! The only mausoleum here is that of the Grandmaster Carafa, which is partly of mar- ble and partly of copper. On the wall behind the bust is a prospective view in alto-relievo of the entry of several gallies into the harbour of Malta. The next chapel is that of the Language of the Knights of France. The conversion of St. Paul over the altar is a fine piece. The drawings on the side walls represent the shipwreck of St. Paul, and St. John in the desert. In this chapel are 10 164 ITINERARY OF MALTA. the monuments of two Grandmasters, and one of the Prince Ludovico Philip D' Orleans, who was interred here in the year 1808. The sixth and last chapel is that of the Knights of Bavaria. Over the altar is a drawing of St. Michael and the Dragon, and on one side of the wall another of his miraculous appearance. The other side forms a small chapel in a recess, enclo- sed with a brass balustrade, dedicated to St. Carlo di Boromeo. This was used by the English Knights of the Order. From this chapel a staircase leads down to an underground apartment, in which are the tombs of several Grandmasters. Here is inter- red 17 Isle Adam, the first commander of the Order in Malta. The remainder are those of La Valette, Wignacourt, La Cassiera, Cardinal Ver- dala, Ludovico Mendes de Vasconcelos, Pietro de Monte, and Martin de Garzes. The remains of these are chiefly deposited in sarcophagi of Malta stone, with marble covers, on some of which are carved full-length images of the deceased. On the pavement are three marble slabs with inscrip- tions to the memory of Claudius de la Sengle, Petrino a Ponte, and loan, de Homedes; who, to- gether with several of the above mentioned, were removed to this cemetery after the building of the church. ITINERARY OF MALTA,. 165 On particular days the interior of the build- ing is covered with a rich tapestry, which gives it a very splendid appearance. This article was presented as a gift to the church by the Grand- master Perellos. CHURCHES OF VALETTA. Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the city which belong to the Go- vernment: viz. the Church of the Jesuits in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada St. Ursola. The former of these we may have occasion to mention in our remarks on the Jesuits' college, now the Government Uni- versity. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the Virgin, the fulfillment of vows made in time of affliction, in order to obtain her commiseration. The boat- men hold this church in peculiar veneration. The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St. Paolo; the former is connected with a monastery of Domenican friars; the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians, Carmelites, 166 ITINERARY OF MALTA. Franciscans, and the Minori Ossenanti, or Re- formed Franciscans; all of which have churches connected with their respective convents. Be- sides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; but the rage for this species of seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establish- ment is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few additions. Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia, and the other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Pur- gatory) belong to the public. The Greek Catho- lics have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. Several of these churches are ornamented with fine paintings, and decorated with images repre- senting things which are in heaven above, on the earth beneath, in the waters under the earth, and in the lower regions. To describe these, would be an almost endless task, and would yield but little interest to the general reader. It is calculated that the number of ordained priests and friars in the islands of Malta and Gozo exceeds one thousand ; these are supported from the revenues of their respective churches and con- vents, the contributions of the people, and the money paid in masses for the living and the dead. Beside the above there are about three thousand ITINERARY OF MALTA. 167 Abbaii preparing for ordination, who are con- sidered a part of the papal ecclesiastical esta- blishment of the island. In the month of February, in the year 1823, a very mournful event took place in one of the convents of Malta, no less dreadful in its effects than that of that of the Black-hole of Calcutta. The circumstance was as follows: It was usual in this island, on the last days of the Carnival, to collect together, from Valetta and from the three cities on the other side of the harbour, as many boys of the lower classes, of from 8 to 15 years of age, as chose to attend,— ^ to form them into a procession, and to take them out to Floriana or elsewhere, where, after attend- ing service in the church, a collation of bread and fruit (provided from funds partly given by Government and partly by beneficent indivi- duals) was distributed to them, — and this with the view of keeping them out of the riot and con- fusion of the Carnival in the streets of the cities. The arrangement of this procession was under the control of the Ecclesiastical Directors of the In- stitution for teaching the Catechism. It appears that this procession had taken place on the 10th. of Feb. that the children went to Floriana, and from thence returned to the church of the Minori Ostervanti in Valetta, and that the *1Q 168 ITINERARY Or MALTA. bread was on that day distributed in the Convent of that Order without any accident or confusion On the 11th, the procession was formed as usu- al, proceeded to Floriana, and returned to the church of the Minori Osservanti, and the bread was to be distributed, as on the preceding day, in the same convent. Unfortunately, however, the ceremony had been protracted to a later hour than usual, and it appears (the Carnival being over,) that a multitude of boys and full grown people, passing by the church and knowing that bread was to be distributed, mixed with the child- ren in the church with the view of sharing it with them. The boys were to enter the corridor of the con- vent from the door of the vestry of the church, and were to be let out through the opposite door of the convent in Strada St. Ursola, where the bread was to be distributed; and it had been customary, when they were collected in the corridor, to lock the door of the vestry, for the purpose of prevent- ing those boys who had received the share of the bread from entering the second time into the corridor. On the door of the vestry, however, being thrown open on the present occasion, which took place about sun-set, after the entrance of the boys, who originally attended the procession, and who ITINERARY OF MALTA. 169 could not have exceeded one hundred, the whole multitude of men and boys, who had subsequently entered the church, forced themselves into the corridor to an unknown extent, and pressed upon the foremost, pushing them gradually to the other end of the corridor, where the door was only half open, with the view of letting out one at a time. As soon as the people had all entered the cor- ridor, the vestry door was as usual locked, and, though there was one lamp lighted in the corri- dor, it appears, by some accident, to have been early put out — thus leaving this immense crowd entirely in the dark; — and there being unfortu- nately a flight of eight steps within the half closed door, at the opposite end of the corridor, the crowd behind, who pressed upon the foremost, forced the boys down the steps, who fell one up- on the other, thus unfortunately choaking up the half-shut door at the bottom (which opened in- wards,) and adding to the distress. The shrieks of the children were soon heard by the persons employed in the distribution of the bread which they had commenced issuing, and by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, — and it appears that every aid was immediately given. Some persons, after endeavouring in vain to get the boys out of the half closed door, rushed into the church and got the keys of the vestry door, **10 170 ITINERARY OF MALTA. which was then opened; — while others entered the corridor from the vestry, passed through the crowd to the other end, and broke down the door at the bottom of the steps; — but unfortunately their exertions were not in time to save the un- happy sufferers. Many, however, were taken out fainting and soon recovered; others apparently lifeless were afterwards brought to their senses; but, sad to re- late, one hundred and ten boys of from 8 to 15 years of age perished on this occasion from suffo- cation, by being pressed together in so small a space, or trampled upon. HOSPITALS. The present Military Hospital, situated at the lower extremity of Strada Mercanti, was former- ly the public building used for the reception of the sick by the Knights of Malta. It is a very commodious edifice, containing many ranges of rooms, disposed in excellent order for the free circulation of air, with a spacious court, in the centre of which is a good fountain. During the existence of the Order, this establishment was open to strangers as well as to the citizens, for whom suitable accommodations were provided. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 171 The sick were regularly attended by the knights in person, provided with medicines and medical assistance free of expense, and their food served up to them in vessels of silver. Here also was a provision made for foundlings. The direction of this institution, after the Grandmaster, was committed to the chief Hos- pitaller, which dignity appertained to the French knights. To him belonged the election of the Overseer of the Infirmary, the Prior, and other ministers. The Overseer generally resided in the Hospital; to the Prior was committed the charge of the spiritual concerns of the patients, and the other ecclesiastical servants helped in as- sisting the sick, and in celebrating the sacrament in the different wards. To the right hand, on entering the chief gate of the Hospital, was the Pharmacy of the establishment, well supplied with all kind of drugs and medicines. This is used for the same purpose at the present day. On the arrival of the French, they seized upon all the plate which was to be found in the esta- blishment, and converted the building into a Military Hospital. The inhabitants being obliged to demand another, the Nunnery of Sta. Madda- lena was given them, the nuns promptly yielding up their residence for the purpose, some of whom 172 ITINERARY OF MALTA.' retired in to the Monastery of Sta. Catarina, and others went to their homes. Close by was the cemetery for all persons who died in the Hospital, and adjoins a small church called the Church of the Cemetery, founded by the Commendatore Fra Giorgio Nibbia, who is him- self buried there. Upon a part of the locality which formed the burial-ground is now built a semicircular building, set apart for dissection, and practical lessons in anatomy, to the students who attend the Government University. By the side of this is a very extensive charnel-house, contain- ing many thousand sculls and human bones, which have been dug up from time to time out of the cemetery. Close to the above is the public Female Hos- pital, founded in the year 1646 by the Lady Catarina Scoppi Senese, who bequeathed the building to the public, and endowed it with all her wealth. This institution was likewise under the direction of two knights of the Order, who were called Commissioners. At present it serves the same purpose as formerly, and the sick are attended to with every possible care. Opposite this building is the public Male Hos- pital, which in the time of the Order, as I have mentioned above, was a Nunnery of The Peni- tents, dedicated to Sta. Maria Maddalena* Whilst ITINERARY OF MALTA. 173 this establishment existed, by order of the Pope, it was partly supported by the fifth portion of the inheritance of prostitutes. The church which adjoined it is now made use of as a ward for the wounded, and such as have broken limbs. Both Hospitals are at present under the direction of the local government, who employ all the funds which were left to their support for the purpose of rendering a very possible assistance to the poor who apply for admittance. Twice a week the relations and friends of the sick are permitted to visit any whom they may have in the Hospi- tal, but are obliged to undergo the strictest search lest they carry in something concealed about their persons, which might be injurious to those under medical treatment. Opposite the Military Hospital is another large building, which is at present occupied by private families. The part to the right was for- merly called La Camarata, where a number of the more pious knights were accustomed to re- side, and where they assembled together at stated hours for devotion. The left division, called La Lingerie, was set apart as a magazine for the linen and other articles required for the service of the Hospital. Here also the bedding and clothing of the patients were washed. This building was 174 ITINERARY OF MALTA. erected in the year 1593 under the Grandmaster Cardinal Verdala, and subsequently repaired du- ring the reign of the Grandmaster Lascaris. MONTE DI PIETA , or PUBLIC PAWN-BROKERY. This institution occupies a large building in Strada Mercanti, opposite the house called U Banco del Giurati. It was originally established in the year 1597, and like all institutions of the sort in other parts of Europe, particularly at Rome, with the object of affording pecuniary relief to the distressed at reasonable interest, thereby preventing them from having recourse to usurious contracts. Any sum of money, however small, is advanced to applicants on the security of property given in pawn, such as gold, silver, and other precious articles, or wearing apparel, whether worn or new. The period of the loan is for three years on pawns of the first description, and never more than two on those of the latter, renewable at the option of the parties, who are also at liberty to redeem their pawns at ITINERARY OF MALTA. 175 any time within the period on payment of inter- est in proportion. The rate of interest now charged is 6 per cent per annum. The unclaim- ed pawns, at the expiration of the period, are sold by public auction, and the residue of the proceeds, after deducting the sum due to the in- stitution, is payable to the person producing the respective tickets. Of the accommodation thus afforded by the Monte not uufrequently persons in better circumstances have availed for any mo- mentary exigency ; and in this way considerable sums have been advanced. Till the year 1787 the operations of this institution were conducted by means of money borrowed at a moderate in- terest, and by funds acquired by donations, &c. But the Grandmaster Rohan authorized the con- solidation of the funds of the Monte di Pieta with those of the Monte di Redenzione, another institution, equally national, founded in the year 1607 by private donations and bequests, for the philanthropic object of rescuing from slavery any of the natives who might fall into the hands of the Mohammedans not having means of ransom. As this institution had larger funds (mostly in landed property) than it actually required to meet all demands, the act of consolidation proved of the greatest advantage to the Monte di Pieta. Thus united the two institutions, with the new 176 ITINERARY OF MALTA. title of Monte di Pieta e Redenzione, conducted their separate duties under the superintendence of a board consisting of a President and eight Commissaries, till the expulsion of the Order of St. John from Malta, which happened in the year 1 798. The French Republicans by whom the island was then occupied stripped the Monte of every article whether in money or pawns, and the loss sustained by the institution on that un- fortunate occasion amounted nearly to £35,000 sterling, including the share of the proprietors of pawns, in as much as the advance they received on that security never exceeded one half or two- thirds of the value of the articles pawned. It is needless to state that not a shilling of this sum was repaid by the French Government after the occupation of the island by the English. When the British forces took possession of La Valette in September 1800, it was one of the first cares of the head of the Government to see this useful institution resume its operations; ac- cordingly a new board was elected, and about four thousand pounds advanced to them (with- out interest) from the local treasury. A loan was opened to which individuals did not hesitate to contribute when they were assured that the institution considered itself bound to pay the old loan though forming part of the amount carried ITINERARY OF MALTA. 177 away by the French, and that in the mean time interest would be paid on it. The Monte pos- sessinglanded property to a much greater amount could never refuse such an act of justice. Hap- pily the cessation of slavery having put an end to the old charge for ransoms enabled the insti- tution to devote its revenues to the payment of interest on the old loan to the extinction of part of the capital to the improvement of its property, and, for the last fourteen years, to as- sign a subsidy in aid of the expense of the House of Industry. The Administration of the Monte di Pieta e Redenzione was by a Minute of the Governor dated the 27th. December 1837, vested, from the 1st. January 1838, in the Committee of the Go- vernment Charitable Institutions ; instead of the former board consisting of a President and six Commissaries. 178 ITINERARY OF MALTA. GOVERNMENT UNIVERSITY formerly THE JESUITS' COLLEGE. It was during a very tumultuous and seditious time in the era of the Knights of Malta, that the Jesuits were called in by Bishop Gargallo, to sup- port him against the power of the Order. This learned and artful body of men soon gained the same ascendancy in Malta as in every other place where they have ever been established. In order to provide them with a permament settlement in the island, the above prelate erect- ed for them the present church and college, the foundation of which was laid on the 12th. of November 1592, during the reign of the Grand- master Verdala. The Jesuits, however, did not long enjoy their power in Malta. Forty-seven years after their introduction, an affair took place which termi- nated in their expulsion. Some young knights, who had just ceased acting as pages, disguised themselves as Jesuits during the Car nival . This so offended the holy fathers, that they made their complaints to Lascaris the Grandmaster, who im- mediately gave orders that some of the youth ITINERARY OF MALTA. 179 should be apprehended. This act enraged their companions, who proceeded first to the prison, the gates of which they forced, and after libe- rating their companions from their confinement, proceeded in a body to the college, threw the furniture out of the windows, and compelled the Grandmaster to send the Jesuits out of the island. Eleven of them were accordingly embarked ; but four contrived to secrete themselves in the city where they remained. This event occurred in the year 1639; their total expulsion did not take place until the year 1769, after which the insti- tution became subject to the Order, and from them was transferred over to the direction of the British Government. The university and church occupy an extensive site surrounded by four principal streets. The latter is a very regular and neatly ornamented building, containing several paintings by the Ca- valier Calabrese. To the left of the southern entrance, over which is the inscription, "In nomi- ne Jesu omne genu flectatur, " is the Oratory, where the Jesuits held their secret council. In 1803, the Governor Sir A. Ball instituted the Merchants' Bank in one angle of this edifice, which was considered as a great piece of injustice by the Maltese, who perhaps did not esteem the proceeding so much a desecration of the locality, *** 10 180 ITINERARY OF MALTA.' as delude themselves that it was an infringement on their rights. The decision of the existing go- vernment carried through the design. The Mer- chants' Bank and Commercial Rooms now occupy a part of the building. In giving the reader a short sketch of the pre- sent state of the University we cannot do better than make some extracts from one of the num- bers of the Mediterraneo, which usually devotes a liberal space in its columns to the important article of the education of the people. "At the head of the University there is a Rec- tor, who is a clergyman, and who governs it by an old statute, which, not being at all adapted to the changes which have taken place, and to the actual state of things, offers thousand occa- sions of arbitrary deviations. A council composed of eleven members, no- minated by the Governor, of which he is himself the head, presides over its affairs. The Rector is, ex officio, a member of this council. The Professors are sworn in annually by the Bishop, according to the doctrine of the Council of Trent. The University has a Confessor for the youth ; and the duty of confession is made a consideration in the examinations. The funds of the University having passed into ITINERARY OF MALTA. 181 the hands of Government, they are charged with its support; the stipend of the Professors is 3Z. 2s. 6d. per month. The Masters of the Lyceum re- ceive 21. Is. 8c?. Some Masters on account of particular duties have 4tl. 3s. Sd. and the Master of the English language 5/. The Teachers of Ca- ligraphy and Arithmetic have 16s. 8d. each. The monthly salary of the Rector is 6/. 13s. 4d. that of the Confessor 1/. 10c/. of the Prefect XI. 5s. of the Procurator 21. Is. Sd. the Beadle 11. 13s. 4e?. andof the Door-keeper U. 5s. Doctorships and diplomas, &c. of foreign countries, and even of England, are not admitted. Five pounds are paid for taking a Doctor's degree, and one pound for the Government license. The youth of the Lyceum pay one shilling a month each; those of the University two shillings and sixpence each. As the course of the study for the attainment of the degrees cannot be short- er than twelve years, it costs every student for the obtaining of his degrees £5, in monthly pay- ments £18, for the Government license £1, which together amounts to £24; a greater sum than is paid for similar degrees at the first University of Italy. The number of students at the Lyceum does not now surpass that of from 90 to 100 ; — that of the University from 80 to 85. It has been 11 182 ITINERARY OF MALTA. remarked that the number in students of the Lyceum has been always diminishing. According to the present establishment, the preparatory school to the Philosophical Faculty consists of eleven Masterships; viz. Elementary school of the Latin language, Humanity, Rheto- ric, Italian, English, Greek and Arabic langua- ges, Navigation and Elements of Mathematics, Arithmetic and Caligraphy, Ornamental Design and the Principles of Architecture. The course of instruction in the Philosophy of Science con- sists of four Professorships; this instruction is preparatory to the faculties, and the course occu- pies three years. The Faculty of Theology includes four Professorships; that of the Holy Scriptures is nothing more than a class of the Hebrew language, and even this, a disgrace to the nation, but more especially to the ecclesiastics, is to be abolished by the new reorganization of the University. The Faculty of Law also numbers four Professorships, and the Faculty of Medicine five. The many abuses existing in this institution was a chief article in the petition which the Mal- tese lately laid before the House of Commons. The Commissioners sent out to examine into this, as well as into other grievances of the peo- ple, saw the necessity of a reform, and through ITINERARY OF MALTA. 183 their representations some changes are to take place, which will come into operation on the 1st. of January 1839. According to the outline of the new organization, as published in the Go- vernment Gazette, the University will consist of Professors in the four Faculties of Arts, Theolo- gy, Law and Medicine. The Faculties of Theo- logy and Law will be reduced to two Professor- ships; and several changes are to take place in the Masterships of the Lyceum. The existing council is to be abolished, and a special one formed for each of the four faculties of the University, composed of the Rector, the Professors of the Faculty, and two non-profess- ional Members chosen by the Governor. Be- sides which there will be a General Council com- posed of the Rector, and a Committee chosen from the Special Councils, proportionally to their respective Members, the Members of which Committee will be chosen by the Governor, or by lot. The Government Library will be deemed the Library of the University, and will be placed under the controul of the Rector, who is still to have the principal administration of the University and Lyceum. 184 ITINERARY OF MALTA. PUBLIC AND GARRISON LIBRARIES. The building which encloses the above two establishments adjoins the Governor's Palace, and is one of the finest specimens of architect- ure in the town. The style of the whole edifice is grand and regular; and the arcade which ex- tends along its whole length forms a delightful portico, and gives the facade a very imposing appearance. This structure was erected during the reign of the Grandmaster Rohan, but was not made use of as a library until the year 18H, when Sir H. Oakes, the British Governor, had all the books transported from their former in- commodious lodging, near the Public Treasury, to their present situation. The Public Library had its origin in the Bailiff Ludovico Guerin de Tencin, who endowed it with a great number of his own books, and pro- cured for it vast legacies of literature from other sources. Not being able to make a sufficient provision for its maintenance at his death, it was made over to the Order, and afterwards enriched by the private libraries of the Knights, who at their decease were obliged to bequeath all their books to this institution. The number of vol- umes now existing is about 39,000. In such a collection, as one might expect from ITINERARY OF MALTA 183 the manner in which it was brought together, there are many books of very little worth; how- ever, any person desirous of examining the re- cords of antiquity, or of traversing the extensive fields of the scientifical research of by-gone days, or of deriving amusement from the peregrina- tions and voyages of the ancients, or of studying long treatises on military tactics and enginery, — all the intermediate tastes from the most zea- lous disciple of Euclid, to the most pitiable novel reader, — may here find ample provision to satisfy his most enlarged desires. In fact, one may find almost any thing but new books. The works in this Library are written princi- pally in Latin, French and Italian; however, there is a small collection of English literature, and a few books in other European languages. In the same room with the Library is also kept a small collection of antiquities and curiosi- ties, found at various times in this island and at Gozo, together with a few birds, a wolf, a wild cat and a snake, all stuffed. The principal an- tiquities are the following: Several Phoenician and other coins or medals which are not generally exposed, but kept under the care of the Librarian. Several earthen jugs and lachrymatories, upon one of which certain Phoenician letters are per*- ceivable although illegible. *ll 185 ITINERARY OF MALTA. A statue of Hercules of Parian marble in very good condition. The god is crowned with a garland of poplar, reclining on his club, and ex- hibiting a very calm and placid countenance. A square altar dedicated to Proserpine, on one of the sides of which two men are represent- ed as offering a fish to the goddess; and on an- other is the emblem by which the Syracusans designed Sicily. It consists of a head from which issue three legs, so disposed as to form the three extremities of a triangle. A Phoenician inscription on two pieces of mar- ble, which has been differently translated by the several persons who have made the attempt; an undeniable proof that very little is known in our days of the ancient Punic. These monu- ments contain also a Greek inscription; but the genuineness of both has been much questioned. A small brass figure, found at Gozo, represent- ing a young beggar seated in a basket, which is covered with large letters, as also is the tippet which is thrown over his shoulders. These letters appear to be a compound of Greek and Gothic characters, and are very difficult to decipher. An ingenuous writer thought he dis- covered on it the figure of the cross, preceded by the word ©TELEI for ETTIIH, which together he renders Le Seigneur fut frappe. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 187 A small marble figure found at Gozo repre- senting the wolf suckling Romulus and Remus. A marble slab containing two basso-relievo fi- gures representing Tullia and Claudia, the former the daughter of Cicero, the latter the wife of Cecilius Metellus, who both lived at the same time. The inscriptions on this monument are very plain: one is tvliola *m *tvllii *f * and the other clavdia *metelli. Another square marble stone containing a bust in basso-relievo of Zenobia, wife of Odenat, King of Palmyra. The inscription which surrounds this figure is in good preservation; it reads, zenobia *orienti *domina; and bears the date an *dni *cclxxvi. Besides the above there are several other Greek and Latin inscriptions, not very perfect, and of little import. This library is open to the public five liours every day, Saturday and the principal feast-days excepted. Any person wishing to read here makes known to the librarian what book he de- sires, and is then at liberty to sit until the hour appointed for closing the room. Subscribers paying the sum of 10s. yearly are permitted to take any books home, the time allowed for their retention being regulated according to the size of the work. **11 188 ITINERARY OF MALTA. The Garrison Library which occupies a small room in the same building consists at present of about 5000 volumes of English literature. There are also a few works in French and Italian. Any person wishing to subscribe is to write his name in a book kept by the Secretary, which is submitted to the Committee for approval. The entrance money of all officers and gentlemen holding civil appointments is respectively to be a sum equivalent to two days' pay, as well civil as military; the annual subscription of such is 30s. sterling. No entrance money is required fro m private persons who may wish to subscribe. Temporary subscribers are obliged to pay the sum of 5s. monthly. The great convenience in this institution are the newspapers and periodicals, of which it pro- vides a good supply. These must remain on the Library table eight days before being put into circulation, during which time they are free to any subscriber who may wish to read them. For this purpose a Reading-roomis provided, which is open nine hours a day in winter, and twelve in summer. PUBLIC THEATRE. This building is situated in the street named after it Strada Teatro. It was erected by the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 1S9 Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena in the year 173 1 , but presents nothing remarkable in its exterior or interior construction. Government grants the use of the Theatre gratis, and it is supplied almost all the year round with Italian operas. Occa- sionally the Naval and the Military officers of the garrison exhibit themselves as actors on the stage for the amusement of the public. It will be allowed by all, that the intention of most players in acting is to procure money, and of the company in attending the theatre is to seek amusement. Hence it will be found here, as every where else, that the plays performed gene- rally correspond with the taste of the audience; and there is no doubt that the performance of Cinderella and the Glass Slipper would find more votaries among the inhabitants of Malta, than one of Shakespeare's dramas, or even a tragedy of Alfieri. CASTELLANIA. In this public edifice is held the Criminal Court, the Courts of the Magistrates of Judicial Police, and also the Office of the Magistrate of Executive Police. It is situated in Strada Mer- canti, and was rebuilt by the Grandmaster Emmanuel Pinto in the year 1758, as appears from an inscription over the entrance. In 190 ITINERARY OF MALTA. the same street, opposite the Monte di Pieta, is the BANCO DEI G1URATI. In the time of the Order, the office of the Magistracy for supplying the inhabitants with corn and other articles of food, and for fixing the market-prices was held in this building. This court consisted of four native Magistrates elect- ed by the Grandmaster, and was presided over by a Bailiff Seneschal. Until the late abolition of the corn monopoly under the British government, the office of the Grain Department was held here. At present it only contains the archives of all the public and official writings belonging to deceased Notaries. QUARANTINE HARBOUR AND LAZARETTO. The gate called Marsamuscetto leads down a long flight of stairs, and over a drawbridge, to the shore of the Quarantine Harbour. Here is a large building, the upper part of which is occu- pied by the Health Office, and that of the Cap- tain of the Port; and the lower floor is divided into separate open apartments, where the captains of vessels in quarantine generally come with their boats in order to transact business with the peo- ple of the town. This is called the Parlatorh ITINERARY OF MALTA. ]9l and each room is provided with two wooden rails in order to prevent the parties from coming in contact with each other. Taking a boat we may cross over to visit the Lazaretto, accompanied by a gaardiano, whose business it is to see that we do not infringe any of the sanitary laws. Before landing, this per- son must demand permission at the Quarantine Office, and if there is no objection, we are at li- berty to proceed and call upon any friend whom we may have undergoing his imprisonment in this establishment. Each division of the build- ing is provided with a small room close to the shore, where persons are permitted to converse with each other, under the same restrictions as mentioned in the Parlatorio. The fixed resula- tion in regard to the payment of boats in this harbour frees the stranger from the annoyance he usually meets with from the boatmen in the other. The price is Gd. for each half hour. On arriving in a vessel from a suspected port, the traveller is invited by one of the officers of the establishment to land and visit the apart- ment where he is destined to pass his quarantine. In case he wishes to hire furniture over and above that provided by the Government, consisting of a table, two chairs, and two bed-boards and tres- tles, he may do so from a person privileged for 192 ITINERARY OF MALTA. the purpose, who, at a pretty high rate, will supply him with any thing he may require. In regard to food, should the person not possess the means of ordering a breakfast and dinner at the high rate charged by the Trattoria connected with the Lazaretto, he stands a good chance of suffering from hunger, unless he has friends in the town who will undertake to supply him? because the only plan by which he may other- wise procure it, through caterers, is so badly re- gulated, as frequently to occasion the greatest inconvenience to travellers. As the guardiano placed over you is not allowed to serve in any way, (though you are obliged to pay him a sala- ry, besides supplying him with food) one must almost necessarily hire a servant, who may charge as much as 2s. 3d. per day. In the latter case, however, the sum to be awarded is according to agreement; but as it regards the guardiano, the price is fixed by the Government. The day on which the passenger lands begins to count as the first of his term; but should he neglect to open his trunks, &c. in order to air his baggage on this day, he runs the risk of being detained a day longer. The morning of the ter- mination of his quarantine goes into the account as one day, and he is permitted at an early hour to leave for the city. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 193 The chief part of the magazines and other buildings of the Lazaretto were built by the Grandmaster Lascaris, but have been lately much improved by the British Government. They occupy a site on a small island which is joined to the mainland on the western side by a stone bridge. On the same island stands a strong bulwark called FORT MANOEL. This fortress was erected by the Grandmaster Ant. Manoel de Vilhena, in the year 1726, as appears from an inscription over the entrance, surmounted by a copper bust of the founder. The walls of this fort are very strong, enclosing a spacious yard, in which are three ranges of buildings, each containing two rows of apart- ments, capable of lodging a garrison five hundred strong. Adjoining one of the above buildings is a small church, dedicated to St. Anthony of Pa- dova, at present only used occasionally by some clergyman who may happen to be in quarantine. In the centre of the court stands a bronze sta- tue of the Grandmaster Vilhena, on a high square base, containing an elaborate eulogy, on its four sides, of the virtues and mighty deeds of the founder. The observation of Sig. D' Avalos in regard to this monument is worthy of notice. 194 ITINERARY OF MALTA. He suggests that it should be transplanted over to some conspicuous place in Valetta, in order to embellish the city; as, where it now stands, it is almost buried, and can neither be seen nor admired by the public. On account of the increasing concourse of strangers to the island, this fort was recently ap- propriated to the service of a Lazaretto, for which purpose it is at present used. These quarters are much to be preferred to those already de- scribed, as they possess all the conveniences of the other, together with good air and a spacious square to walk in. The Quarantine regulations of Malta are very strict, so that although persons and vessels af- fected with the plague have several times been entertained in the establishment, such have been the precautions taken, that no accident has ever been known to occur through improvidence or neglect. To the north-east of Fort Manoel, on the point called Cape Dragut, in memory of that famous corsair who was slain here during the great siege of Malta, stands another called fort tigne'. This fortress was erected in the year 1796, un- der the direction of the Commander Touoard, and ITINERARY OF MALTA. 195 named after the Cavalier Tigne, the engineer who planned the design of the barracks of St. Elmo. This fort was built in order to act in junction with the castle of St. Elmo for the de- fence of the entrance into the quarantine harbour. Though small, it is very strongly fortified, and is extensively mined. The mines are cut out of the solid rock, and have two outlets: one by the side of the stair-case which leads up to the fort, and the other, at some distance from it, near the beach on the north. On the top of the fort are four entrances leading down to the mines underneath, which separate in four directions ac- cording to the points of the compass. These pas- sages are again separated into smaller divisions, containing apartments for the deposit of the powder destined to blow up the fort in case of its seizure by an enemy. It is at present garri- soned by a small body of artillery, and a com- pany of the line. TOUR ROUND THE WALLS OF VALETTA. Before taking leave of the city I would in- vite the stranger to a walk round the walls, es- pecially those which overlook the ditch, where are several monuments raised to the memory of various deceased governors of the island, and 196 ITINERARY OF MALTA. other illustrious persons. Under the bastions of St. Michael lie the remains of Capt. Spencer, R. N. to whose memory a pillar was also erected on the heights of Coradino, in the Great Harbour. Below this is another monument, projected by the Maltese, to the memory of the late governor Sir F. C. Ponsonby. The expenses of this work were defrayed by public subscription. Under the cavalier St. John, within a small grove of trees, is the tomb which encloses part of the remains of the Marquis of Hastings, who governed this island previous to the appointment of Sir F. C. Ponsonby. Beyond this is the New Baracca, a kind of parterre, where several other monuments are erected to the memory of noble personages, and where the ashes of the late Go- vernor Sir Thomas Maitland repose in a seclu- ded part. The view from this place is very extensive and beautiful, and as it overlooks the Great Harbour and its several creeks, with the sight of vessels of every size anchored therein, — the three towns which are directly opposite, the castles which defend the port, the Marina, the Floriana suburbs, and a great part of the country, — it forms one of the most pleasant and agreeable places of resort which the city affords. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 19T On the walls of the town which defend the en- trance of the Great Harbour is the Old Baracca, in which is planted a grove of trees surrounding a massy monument, raised to perpetuate the memory of Sir J. Ball, late Governor of the island. This also is a place of public concourse, enjoy- ing a very pleasant view of the sea and of the harbour. Having finished the tour of the most inter- esting localities in the city, we invite the stranger to a walk without the city gates, in the direction of the suburbs called FLORIANA. This place is surrounded with strong fortifica- tions planned and superintended by the engineer Col. P. P. Floriani, sent from Rome by the Pope, at the urgent request of the Grandmaster, in the year 1635. It is provided with four gates: one leading up from the beach called Delia Marina; two others opening in the direction of the coun- try, one called Dei Cani or St. Anns Gate, and the other Delle Pera or Notre Dame Gate, after the emblem on the escutcheon of the Grand- master Perellos, which consisted of three pears ; 193 ITINERARY OF MALTA. and a fourth enclosing the advanced works call- ed Des Bombes. On the outer front of the latter are to be seen the impress of several balls, which were fired by the Maltese when they blockaded the town against the French. The open unoccupied space within these forti- fications is divided by a long narrow enclosure, dignified with the title of the Botanical Garden. This is a scene of public resort, and serves more as a pleasant walk than a place for the study of botany. There are, however, a number of flow- ers collected here, and even a little green spot in Malta may be likened to an oasis in the desert. Near the above is another garden, called D'Argotti, situate within the precints of the walls, which owes its improvements to the late Gene- ral Villette. Though not quite so abundant in flowers as the former, it is much more extensive, contains more wood, and combines some of the beauties of native rural scenery with the embel- lishments of art. There is a convenient villa ad- joining this garden, which is occasionally occupied by persons holding high offices in the island. Not far from the latter is another garden, con- nected with the Government University. This, though much smaller than the two former, con- tains a larger variety of rare and valuable bota- nical productions. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 199 HOUSE OF INDUSTRY. This building, erected by the Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena, was originally intended as a Conservatory for poor girls, where they were taught to do a little work, and in other respects to perform all the offices of nuns. In 1S25 tin's establishment underwent an entire reform, and until veiy lately was in a very thriving condition as regards the occupation of its inmates. A great diversity of labour was done here, such as weav- ing, knitting, making lace, sewing, washing, shoe- making, straw -plaiting, segar-making, and many other very useful branches of female manufacture. The girls, however, were never allowed to go out, unless under the conduct of the Lady Superior, and in this respect the establishment differed little from a nunnery. In case any application should be made for a servant, it was left to the option of some one chosen for the purpose, whether she w T ould accept the situation. But the training which these girls received here was not at all cal- culated to fit them to be useful in household work. Another means by which they might be liberated was by marriage. A respectable young man desiring a wife, and holding acquaintance with any young woman in this establishment, 12 200 ITINERARY OF MALTA. might request her in marriage, and she was quite at liberty to leave, if she chose, for this purpose. Since the breaking out of the cholera, which took place last year, and which necessitated the temporary dispersion of the inmates, this institu- tion has not assumed its former system. A great number of the best workwomen have left, and those who remain are only occupied in making clothes for themselves, and other labour connect- ed directly with the establishment. One hour daily is set apart for teaching them to read and write. The lower part of the back side of this build- ing forms a barrack for a regiment of the British garrison, ASYLUM FOR THE AGED. Descending a long staircase close by the bar- racks, the traveller passes through a gate called La Polverista, which leads him to this establish- ment. It was erected by the same Grandmaster who founded the above mentioned institution, in the year 1734, and is now under the direction of the local government. Here are collected a great number of old and infirm persons, who are furnish- ed with all the necessaries of life, and provided for as long as they liye. Each one is supplied with a bed, a trunk for his clothing, and a stool. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 201 The ringing of a bell calls them together for their meals; and it is a most interesting sight to see a long table lined with hoary heads sitting down to eat, apparently happy and comfortable in the last stage of their earthly existence. The aged females are kept separate from the males. Ad- joining this institution is another, destined for the reception of lunatics and maniacs. The open space before this building has lately been planted with trees and flowers, which makes it a very pleasant and agreeable walk. Follow- ing the pathway which leads from the Asylum, the traveller reaches the house and garden called SA MAISON. This is a delightful spot, possessing a most charming view of the Quarantine harbour, the Pieta, and the country beyond. The garden, though small, is laid out with exquisite taste, and is well supplied with flowers and fruits. The battlement which encloses it on one side is almost covered with ivy, giving it at a distance a most beautiful appearance. This house belongs to go- vernment, and is generally hired as a country-seat by some of the gentry of the island. Beneath the bastion, which extends along the Poor Asylum to this villa, is a very massy arch. 202 ITINERARY OF MALTA. leading down to the shore of the Quarantine Har- bour. The architecture of this piece of work- manship is very much admired by conoisseurs; the curve is of a tortuous and oblique form, and extends over a space about thirty feet in width. It was thrown by the Maltese engineer Barbara, who assisted Colonel Floriani in the erection of the fortifications which surround these suburbs. PROTESTANT BURIAL GROUND. A gate which bounds the precints of the Poor Asylum leads down to this repose of the dead. Two extensive enclosures have already been filled up with the mortality of English residents, and a third, opened about ten years ago, is rapidly oc- cupying its space with the bones of our country- men. This latter is planted with flowers and trees, and contains many sumptuous monuments, the only seniority which the noble can now boast over the base, or the rich over the poor. Here repose many who sought in a foreign country a more genial climate for diseased nature, but whose destiny it was to be borne by strangers to their long home. Here they rest as quiet as in the sepulchre of their fathers, and will sleep on. blended with other dust, until the resurrection morn. ITINERARY OF MALTA- 203 Let not the passer by neglect to receive the les- son which this place affords, and which is very simply inculcated on one of the tombs, in the following stanza: Stop, traveller, stop, ere you go by, As you are now, so once was I ; As I am now, so you must be ; Prepare yourself to follow me. The delapidated tombs, the crumbling urns, and weather-worn inscriptions, in the more ancient burial-grounds, prove what faithless remem- brancers these are of recording to posterity our real excellencies; — what a poor substitute for a set of memorable actions is polished alabaster or the mimicry of sculptured marble. The only way of immortalizing our characters, a way equally open to the meanest and most exalted fortune, is so to live as not to fear to die. Even the tongues of those, whose happiness we have endeavoured to promote, must soon be silent in the grave; but this virtue shall be inscribed indelibly on that book, from which the revolution of eternal ages shall never efface it. Close by the English burial-grounds is one owned by the Greek church. 12 204 ITINERARY OF MALTA. CAPUCHIN CONVENT. This building, erected under the auspices of the Grandmaster Verdala, in the year 1584, is situated on a very interesting locality, com- manding an extensive view of the Great harbour and of the country. The lower part of the edifice is occupied by the church of the convent, and a spacious court. The upper story is traversed by several narrow corridors lined with the cells of the monks, of which there are about sixty. The walls of the passages are covered with pictures, representing the astounding miracles performed by friars of this order. Over each cell is a small Latin inscription taken from the Holy Scriptures. This convent is very much frequented on holi- days, when a great number come here to while away an hour in traversing the corridors, examin- ing the pictures which decorate the walls, reading the accounts of the mighty deeds of this brother- hood, chatting with some of the fraternity, or enjoying the fine air and beautiful prospect which surrounds the place. The church contains nothing remarkable, but the good supply of confessionals which line its sides. The holy fathers of this body are in better repute than any other, and consequently have many more applicants for shriving. Below the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 205 church is an extensive vault called the Carrier ia, or Charnel-house, which is one of the most hor- rifying and disgusting spectacles I ever beheld. Here, those monks who die in the convent, after being disembowelled and well dried, are dressed in their clericals, and fixed up in niches until they fall to decay. The bones of such are taken and nailed upon the walls, in regular order, so as to form a kind of decoration; and the sculls are like- wise arranged in rows along the ceiling, standing like so many grim spectators of the mockery and indignity offered to their remains. In one of the sides of this vault are two enclosed coffins, con- taining the bodies of two friars, whom my guide endeavoured to persuade me performed mi- racles. This Golgotha was formerly open to the pub- lic on the second day of November, the anniver- sary of the festival called All Souls' Day; but that custom has lately been abandoned. With the permission of the Superior, however, any per- son is allowed to visit it. As this particular day is still very devoutly observed by the Church of Rome, I shall just give the occasion of it. "A monk, having visited Jerusalem, and passing through Sicily, as he returned home, had the cu- riosity to see Mount Etna, which is continually belching out fire and smoke ; and for that reason **12 206 ITINERARY OF MALTA. is imagined by some to be the mouth of hell. Being there, he heard the devils within complain- ing, that many departed souls were taken out of their hands by the prayers of the Cluniac monks. This idle story he related soon after, as actual fact, on his return to Odilo his Abbot, who there- upon appointed this day to be annually observed in his monastery, and prayers without ceasing to be made for departed souls. Soon after the monks procured this day to be solemnized as a general holiday by the appointment of the Pope. " CASA DELLA MADONNA DI MANRESA. This building is situated opposite the House of Industry, and was erected in the year 1751 at the expense of D. Pietro Infante, Grand Prior of Crato in Portugal. It contains a small church of an oval form, which is one of the neatest hou- ses of worship I have seen in Malta. The whole establishment is remarkable for the plainness and simplicity of its architecture; and at the same time, for its clean and decent appearance. It consists of several passages or corridors, on the walls of which are hung a vast variety of old paintings, arranged in symmetrical order, and lined on both sides with small rooms, each con- taining the most necessary articles of household ITINERARY OF MALTA. 207 furniture. In one angle of the building is a spa- cious yard, very tastefully laid out with flowers. This institution was originally intended as a place of retreat for such persons as wished to per- form the Exercises of St. Ignatius, consisting of meditations for ten successive days, during which time they secluded themselves from the rest of the world, and gave up all their temporal cares. At present it is used for the same purpose, by a portion of the clergy, during eight days in the month of October, and in December by such as are about to present themselves for ordination. The three days of Carnival is another season when this establishment is sometimes crowded with the more religiously disposed from among the respectable classes of the people, who pass the time here in seeing masses, in hearing ser- mons, confessing, meditation, and other devout duties. Twice a year, also, three days are ap- pointed for such of the country-people who de- sire to avail themselves of the quiet retirement and religious privileges which this place affords. The establishment provides nothing but soup and lodging for any of the above; so that all persons wishing to enjoy better fare must bring it along with them. A spacious apartment in the building is set apart as the public refectory. This is supplied 208 ITINERARY OF MALTA. with chairs and tables for the convenience of the inmates, who during their stay generally dine together. Among the edifying spectacles, exhibited in this place during the seasons of seclusion, was a figure representing a soul suffering the tortures of hell, so constructed, as that by the motion of a wheel it was enveloped in flames, which moved in rapid succession round the victim, together with hideous snakes writhing themselves about his body, and adding increased tortures to his sufferings. Whatever may have been the real effect of such a sight, it has lately been suppressed. Besides the above, there are two other churches in Floriana, one dedicated to St. Publius, and the other called DelV Immaculata Concezione di Ma- ria; which latter appertains to the Government. It is generally known by the name of Sarria, so called after the Cavalier F. Martino de Sarria, who founded it in the year 1585. In conse- quence of a vow made during the time of the plague, it was repaired and enlarged by the Or- der in 1676, but contains nothing worth noticing. On the walls are hung many small pictures, pla- ced there as the fulfillment of vows, representing the persons in their distress, and the real or ima- ginary cause of their deliverance. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 209 Having terminated the circuit of Floriana, I shall now pass over to observe what is most remarkable on the opposite side of the Great Harbour, including the three towns of Borgo, Burmola, and Senglea. This division of the island contains several small bays or creeks, formed by narrow peninsu- las of land jutting out into the Great Harbour. On the two principal of these stand the cities of Borgo and Senglea, separated by a piece of wa- ter which runs inland as far as the centre of Bur- mola, and called formerly the Port of the Gallies. As the former of the above mentioned cities was the first residence of the Order, we shall give it the precedence in the following description. BORGO OR CITTA VITTORIOSA. On the arrival of the Knights of St. John at Malta in 1530, this spot, which at that time was only occupied by a few huts, was selected as the place of their residence, and from that circum- stance took the name of the Burgh or Boryo. After the victory gained over the Turks in 1565, (a short sketch of which I shall give at the end 210 ITINERARY OF MALTA. of the description of the three cities) it was dig- nified with the title of the Citta Vittoriosa, or the Victorious city; in commemoration of which de- feat, a statue of Victory was erected by the Grandmaster in the square of St. Lawrence, which exists to the present day. This city continued to be the seat of government until the year 1571, when the whole body of the knights moved over to Valetta, which from that time became the conventual residence of the Order. The site on which the small town of Borgo stands is very uneven, the streets are unpaved, narrow and irregular, and consequently not re- markably clean. In general the houses are built much in the same manner with those of Valetta, but come far behind the latter in the neatness of their exterior, and the finish of their interior. Though there are several wealthy persons resi- dent in the city, it is chiefly inhabited by the second and third classes of the people, many of whom are engaged in the sea-faring line. The inner side of the peninsula is not walled in with fortifications, these being rendered unne- cessary by the castle of St. Angelo, and the forts of the Point and St. Michael, on the opposite town of Senglea. The outer side, however, towards the bay called Calcara, is defended by a strong wall which reaches the whole length of ITINERARY OF MALTA. 211 the city, and encloses it by forming an angle at the termination of the above mentioned bay, and continues the line until it joins with the Harbour of the Gallies. That part of the bulwark which .crosses the peninsula is defended by a deep ditch, which is traversed by a bridge leading into the city, and by the cavaliers of St. John and St. James which overlook the entrance. The chief defence of the city, as also of the Great Harbour, is the Castle of St. Angelo, which on account of its importance merits a more particular descrip- tion. CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. The first notice which we have of the occupa- tion of this site for a place of defence is in the year 870, when the Arabs, after dispossessing the Greeks, erected here a small fort for the purpose of guarding their marauding vessels which an- chored in the Great Harbour. On the arrival of the Knights of St. John it was made the chief bulwark of the town, and consequently was very much enlarged. In 1686 new fortifications were added to it under the auspices of the Grandmas- ter Gregorio Carafa, and finally it assumed its present state in the year 1690, under the reign of Adrian de Wignacourt, as may be seen from an inscription over the outer gate. 212 ITINERARY OF MALTA. Towards the mouth of the Great Harbour this fortress presents an imposing front, consisting of four batteries, built one above another in the style of an amphitheatre, mounting fifty-one guns be- side those which are posted on the cavalier and the walls connected with it. The fort is separa- ted from the town of Borgo by a ditch, into which the sea runs from the two harbours which flank it at both extremities. This ditch is about twen- ty-five yards in width, and according to tradition occupies the ancient site of the temple of the goddess Juno. St. Angelo is at present garrisoned by a de- tachment of British artillery, under the command of a captain who occupies the building formerly tenanted by the Grandmaster. The only object of interest to be noticed within the walls is an extensive powder magazine, and a small Gothic chapel built on a level with the uppermost bat- tery, and containing two sienite pillars which were probably brought by the Knights from the island of Rhodes. VICTUALLING YARD. A large extent of the inner wharf of Borgo is occupied by a range of magazines, with a cover- ed portico, furnished with every thing necessary for the supply of the British fleet. This place is I ITINERARY OF MALTA. 213 called the Victualling Yard. A little higher up are three long arched entrances, where the gallies of the knights were drawn up to undergo repairs. The row of buildings which line the mole above the magazines are at present occupied by the office and the officers belonging to this na- val establishment; they were formerly the resi- dence of the Captain and Lieutenant General of the fleet of the Order, and of the Commanders of the gallies. inquisitor's palace. This is an extensive building, situated in the street called Strada della Porta Maggwre, and at present forms the mess-house for the officers of the British garrison stationed at the barracks of Fort St. Michael in Senglea. There is nothing particular to be noticed in the upper part of the edifice, and the passages which lead down to the cells underground, and which formed the prison- house of the poor wretches who unfortunately fell into the hands of this diabolical tribunal, have long since been walled up. About ten years ago, whilst digging to form a wine-cellar, a rack was discovered in one of the subterraneous apart- ments. The office of the Inquisition was introduced into 214 ITINERARY OF MALTA. the island of Malta by Pope Gregory XIII. in the year 1574, during the reign of John de la Cassiera. This circumstance took place on account of an action brought against the bishop of Malta by the Grandmaster, for interfering with the religious concerns of the Knights, which had ever been ru- led and directed by a council of the Order. In order to decide to what lengths the bishop's juris- diction should extend, Gregory agreed to send an Inquisitor to Malta, whose intervention, how- ever, was not accepted until the Council of the Order had exacted a promise from the sovereign pontiff, that the officer sent from the court of Rome should never act but in conjunction with the Grandmaster, the Bishop, the Prior of the church of St. John, and the Vice Chancellor of the Or- der; by which means this new tribunal was di- vided between the Inquisition and the principal officers of the state. But this prudent arrange- ment lasted a very short time. The Inquisitors, from a spirit of emulation so common among themselves, and on pretence of maintaining the authority of the Holy See, contrived to get fresh assessors; and, in order to become absolute in their tribunal, endeavoured to establish a degree of dominion in the island, and frequently strug- gled hard to make it supersede the legitimate one. To effect this purpose, they pursued the following 1 ITINERARY OF MALTA. 215 method : any Maltese who was desirous of throw- ing off the authority of the Order might address himself to the Office of the Inquisition, which im- mediately presented him with a brief of indepen- dence, to which was given the name of patent. Those who took out this patent were called the Patentees of the Inquisition; which implied, that in consequence of the said patent, they and all their family were under the immediate protection of the Holy See ; so that in all causes, either civil or criminal, the patentee was first tried in Malta by the tribunal of the Inquisition, and, if the con- demned party thought proper to make a last appeal to the Court of Rome, he was there tried a second time by a tribunal called La Rotta. Whilst the trial lasted their persons were secure, and the government of the Order could neither commit them to prison, nor punish them in any manner whatsoever. During the reign of La Cassiera the Inquisition had carried its evil designs to such a pitch, that three of the holy brotherhood were seized for forming a plan, in conjunction with some Spanish knights, to murder the Grandmaster. In 1657, fourteen years after the establishment of the tri- bunal, the Grand Inquisitor Odi raised disturb- ances by his interference in the election of a Grandmaster; and in 1711 one named Delci *** 12 216 ITINERARY OF MALTA. carried his pretensions to the highest degree of arrogance. He began by insolently demanding that the carriage of the Grandmaster should stop on meeting his; and afterwards insisted that the Infirmary belonging to the Order should for the future be under his jurisdiction. This hospital, which had ever been regarded as the most privileged spot on the island, and into which even the Marshal of the Order could not enter without leaving his truncheon at the door, was entrusted to the care of some French Knights, who were particularly zealous for their liberties, and who acknowledged no superior au- thority, but that of the Grand Hospitaller, who alone was permitted free entrance without leaving behind him the ensigns of his dignity; yet even here the officers of the inquisition had the auda- city to enter by surprise, and to begin their visits of examination. But the moment the Overseer of the Infirmary was informed of their conduct, he obliged them to depart immediately, and de- clared null and void all their proceedings. The Inquisitor Delci did not stop here; but, without the smallest attention to the rights of the sover- eign, and to prove his own superiority, distributed a great number of patents, such as we have al- ready mentioned, declaring in the most absolute terms, that every Maltese to whom they were ITINERARY OF MALTA. 217 granted became from that moment exempt from all obedience to the legitimate sovereign.* This tribunal continued its iniquitous proceed- ings until the arrival of the French, who expelled them from the island, and confiscated all their property. CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES OF BORGO. St. Dominies Convent. Opposite the Inquisitor's Palace is a convent dedicated to St. Dominic, the founder of the Holy Tribunal, which is at present occupied by a few friars of the same order. The upper division of the building consists of several passages, contain- ing the cells of the monks; but the whole is in a very delapidated condition, and unless repaired will soon fall to ruin. The church connected with the convent might once have made some pretence to elegance, but at present it has the appear- ance of being the worse for wear. Over the altar of the Inquisition, which is on the right side of the wall on entering, is a large picture, represent- ing an Inquisitor, with a rod in one hand, bela- bouring some poor individual who is crouched * See Boisgelin, Vol. II. p. 140, 195, 220; and Ver- tot, Tom. IV p. 225 et seq. 13 218 ITINERARY OF MALTA. at his feet, and pointing with the other to a tablet containing these words, Credo in Deum: — a very exemplary method of teaching the precepts of the Gospel. Church of St. Lawrence. This is the parish-church of the Citta Vittoriosa, and, during the residence of the Order in this city, -was made use of by them as their place of pub- lic worship. It contains several commodious chapels, and is rather richly ornamented. On one side stands an image of St. Lawrence, holding a large silver gridiron in his hand. This article was presented to the church by a Maltese, on the last anniversary of the feast of the saint, in ful- filment of a vow made by him during the preva- lence of the Cholera. The gridiron is about one yard and a half long, and three quarters wide. The cost was 800 scudies, or (>0/. 13s. 4c?. Santa Maria dei Greci. This was formerly one of the chapels which belonged to the Greeks who followed the Knights of St. John from Rhodes. The number of this persuasion having greatly diminished, this chapel was sold to the Fratelli * of St. Joseph, who have * For the signification of this term see note on p. 100 and 101. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 219 it in their possession at the present day. The only object of interest worth noticing here is the sword and hat, which the Grandmaster La Valette wore, on the day in which he drove the Turks from the island. They are preserved in a glass oase, with the following inscription engraved on a marble slab underneath: Emmanuel Rohanus Magnus Ordinis. Hleros. Magister SaceUum Dei par pursuit followed him to the place of his fall, where, finding that he still lived, they soon put an end to his miserable existence. But to return to the six rebels, who continued in possession of the powder magazine. Confi- dent of making advantageous terms with the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 231 Governor, they persisted in their obstinate resist- ance, and made no advances towards a surrender. From time to time some one presented himself in order to negotiate with the besiegers, but to no avail; nothing but an unconditional surrender would be listened to by the Commandant. Five days passed away in this manner, during which time all their urgent entreaties for provision were obstinately refused, and the unfortunate wretches were reduced to a most pitiable condition. On the sixth these entreaties w r ere pressed with addi- tional importunities, and seconded with the threat, that in case of a refusal, or the non -assurance of pardon, they would blow up the fort as soon as the first vesper-bell tolled from St. John's ca- thedral. No notice was taken of this desperate menace, nor any thought entertained that these six men valued life so little as to join together in so horrible a design for their own destruction. All was still until the appointed hour, when the fatal crash was heard, the stones of the magazine were seen rising in the air, and the whole building, with a part of the fortification, was reduced to ruins. The loss sustained by the besiegers from this explosion was considerable. Some time had already elapsed, and the affair of the rebels had ceased to be talked of, when a priest 232 ITINERARY OF MALTA. returning home on a donkey, from a rather soli- tary quarter in the direction of the fort, was as- sailed by a man dressed in the Froberg uniform, who pointed his musket at him over a wall, and apparently intended to make him the receptacle of its contents. The affrighted father immedia- tely took to his heels, and upon his arrival at home made known the circumstance to the police. An armed body was forthwith sent in pursuit of the bandit, which succeeded in discovering the retreat of the six poor wretches, whom it was ima- gined had been blown up with the magazine. Pale and emaciated they were secured with ease, and led into the town, and soon afterwards receiv- ed the full reward of their inhuman deeds by a public execution. From their own account of their escape, it ap- pears, that during the siege they had continued to carry out one of the mines to the precints of the fortifications, leaving but a slender wall to ab- stract their retreat, which they might throw down in a moment, during the night, without any noise, when they wished to escape. Until this work was completed, they continued to make every appear- ance of holding out, but when all was ready, a train of powder was laid at a sufficient distance to secure them from the effects of the explosion, and which they kindled at the precise time of their ITINERARY OF MALTA. 233 threat. It seems to have been the hope of the rebels, that in getting free from the fort, they might fall in with some vessel on the coast, and thus make their escape from the island. It after- wards appeared, that they had actually attempted te seize a small boat, upon which occasion they narrowly escaped being apprehended. SIEGE OF BORGO AND SENGLEV. As I have had occasion during the foregoing description to revert several times to the siege of 1565, in which the above two cities were invest- ed for upwards of two months, I shall proceed to give a short account of that event, in order that by the associations of history, an increased inter- est may be felt in examining the localities with which they are connected. After the capture of St. Elmo by the Turks, which I have already noticed in my description of that fort, a christian slave was sent from the Turkish camp to St. Angelo, in order to propose a negotiation ; but being sent back with an an- swer of defiance, the entire peninsulas of the Bourg and La Sangle were invested without de- lay. The latter town, and its principal defence, Fort St. Michael, were the points against which the besiegers directed their fire. Several batteries, *** 13 234 ITINERARY OF MALTA. planted on Mount Sceberras and the hill of Cor- radin, completely commanded these posts, and as they were esteemed the weakest, the flower of the Order undertook their defence. The Har- bour of the French alone remained open, and here the Ottoman leader determined to make his principal assault; but as it was impossible for a flotilla to pass under the batteries of St. Ange- lo without certain destruction, he determined to adopt the expedient of transporting a number of boats from Marsamuscetto into the Great Har- bour, across the isthmus which joins Mt. Sceber- ras to the mainland. The desertion of a Greek officer from his service, however, put the knights in timely possession of this project, and occasion- ed it to be materially altered. Thus forewarned, the Grandmaster prepared to defeat the contemplated assault. The sea- ward walls of La Sangle were heightened by his orders, and the cannon on them brought to com- mand the inner port at every point; while a vast stockade, extending from Mount Coradino to the point of Senglea was formed, by driving huge piles into the shallow water, and then fixing a chain on the top of them by means of iron rings. In order to remove this barrier, Mustapha dis- patched a band of expert swimmers under the cloud of night, with axes in their girdles, to open ITINERARY OF MALTA. 235 a passage through the booms and palisades; but the noise of these adventurers alarmed the gar- rison, and the guns on the walls immediately commenced a fierce cannonade. Being too ele- vated, they threw their shot over the heads of the Turks, and therefore proved ineffective; but at the suggestion of Admiral de Monte, a party of Maltese swimmers were dispatched against them, and, after a sanguinary water combat, completely routed the Turks. A subsequent at- tempt was made to destroy the booms and stakes, by means of cables worked on the shore by ship capstans; but this also was baffled by the intre- pidity of the marines, who swam out again and cut the ropes. Enraged at being thus circumvented in a fa- vourite project, the Pasha, on the 5th. of July, ordered his guns to open simultaneously on the two towns. Accordingly, the vast batteries which had been raised on the hill of Sta. Marga- rita and the rock of Coradino commenced a furious cannonade against Fort St. Michael, and the bulwark of Senglea, while those on Mount Sceberras and the hill of Salvador played on Borgo and the castle of St. Angelo. The can- nonade did not cease until considerable breaches were made in the advanced works of both towns, and the Pasha was only delayed from making 14 236 ITINERARY OF MALTA. an attempt to storm the latter, from a desire that the Viceroy of Algiers would soon arrive with a reinforcement to share in the assault. Hassan, the leader of the Algerine troops, soon came, accompanied by two thousand five hundred chosen soldiers. He was the son of the famous Barbarossa, and the son-in-law of the scarcely less famous Dragut, who lost his life on the cape on which Fort Tigne stands. To this young war- rior was committed, at his own request, the land attack on Fort St. Michael, and to Candelissa his lieutenant, the maritime part of the enterprise. Under his superintendence, and in accordance with the Pasha's original project, a number of boats were dragged overland from Marsamuscet- to, and launched in the Great Harbour, where they were manned with four thousand Algerine and Turkish soldiers. Under a galling fire of round shot and musketry, the enemy sprang bravely upon the stockade, which obstructed the entrance of his fleet into the French Harbour, and with hammers and hatchets endeavoured to de- molish it. After several attempts they succeed- ed in forming a passage to an uncovered part of the beach, at the extremity of Senglea. This headland was defended by a battery of six guns, playing level with the water, and by a strong in- trenchment, within which were posted a number ITINERARY OF MALTA. 237 of expert harquebusiers. Several discharges of shot among the assailants greatly diminished their numbers; but, rendered desperate by the perils which surrounded them, after a combat of five hours, they forced the defenders to retire, and planted seven Turkish ensigns on the summit of the intrenchment. The sight of the Moslem standard floating tri- umphantly on this outwork, filled the knights with shame and indignation, and a fresh body of them, headed by Admiral De Monte, renewed the battle. After a severe conflict, the Turkish pen- nons were torn down, and their defenders driven headlong from the rampart. All those who failed to reach the boats were sacrificed, many were shot while swimming after their boats, and of the boats themselves many were sunk by the fire of the batteries. The landward attack, headed by the Algerine Viceroy in person, was not more successful. At the sound of a signal -gun, his troops rushed gal- lantly towards the breaches on the side of the Birmula Gate and the castle of St. Michael, and in a short space, a small corps of Algerines dis- played their ensigns in several points of the pa- rapet. A murderous discharge, however, from the cannon of the fort poured death into the heart of the enemy, and drove them back again with 238 ITINERARY OF MALTA. great slaughter. Unable to stand the steady and destructive fire of the knights, the Viceroy at length sounded a retreat, leaving the flower of his troops lifeless at the foot of the rampart. The Turkish general did not fail to follow up this bloody effort with a fresh attack, but wa3 again as violently repulsed by the bravery of the knights. Undismayed, however, by these suc- cessive repulses, he ordered a kind of bridge to be constructed, by means of which he anticipated his troops would be able to enter the works, The Grandmaster, who regarded this contrivance with apprehension, made two attempts to burn it by night; but the sleepless vigilance of the enemy rendered them futile. He at length de- termined to make a final attempt to destroy it by day, and his nephew, Henry de La Valette, was intrusted with the perilous duty. At the head of a body of picked men, and in the teeth of a heavy fire from the Turks, he sallied out, accom- panied by a brother knight, with the intention of fastening a number of strong ropes to the princi- pal posts and beams of the bridge, so as to en- able them to drag it by main force from its position. The design, however, was baffled by the fierce fire of the harquebusiers, and the fol- lowers of young La Valette bore back the life- less remains of their leader into the fortress. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 239 The Grandmaster, though secretly mourning the fate of his nephew, did not allow himself to be deterred for a moment from effecting his pur- pose. By his orders, an entrance was opened in the wall, immediately facing the bridge, through which a piece of artillery was brought to play on the whole structure. A few discharges shattered it in such a manner as to render it un- serviceable; and, on the following night, it was set on fire and consumed to ashes. Disconcerted bv this event, the Pasha again ordered the Turkish batteries to open upon the two towns with redoubled activity, and the con- test waxed daily more bloody and desperate. For four successive days the Christians were en- gaged in incessant skirmishes on the walls of La Sengle; and at length, on the 2nd. of August, the Turkish horns sounded a scalade. The Turks fought with extraordinary obstinacy; but at the end of six hours their ardour abated, and they retired from the breaches leaving them choked with their dead. Five days afterwards, simulta- neous attacks were made on Fort St. Michael and the bastion of Castile. The Janissaries, who led the van of the battle, advanced against the for- mer fortress with warlike shouts, and though the ground over which they crossed was strewn with mutilated bodies, they fought their way to the *14 210 ITINERARY OF MALTA. top of the breach, and for four hours maintained their position. At this crisis, not only the knights, but the citizens, men, women and children, hover- ed on the skirts of the combat and supplied their protectors with refreshments, or flung missiles and tire-works into the Ottoman ranks. Wearied and oppressed with fatigue the Christians prepared for the worst, when suddenly, to their astonishment and joy, they heard a recail sounded along the Turkish line. This seasonable relief was occasion- ed by a diversion on the part of the Governor of the Citta Notabile, who, observing from his post the cloud of smoke which enveloped Fort St. Mi- chael, hastily ordered a few squadrons of cavalry to make an attack on the nearest point of the Turkish position. The knights who commanded this detachment led it down to the Marsa, and massacred all the sick and wounded which were found in the hospital of the enemy. The fugi- tives who had escaped carried the news, that the Sicilian succours had arrived, which caused Mus- tapha, at the moment of victory, to relinquish the breach, and to march against this new foe. His indignation knew no bounds when he discovered the true state of the case; and had it not been for the harassed condition of his soldiers and the en- treaties of his officers, he would have imme- diately marched back to the field. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 241 More than a fortnight elapsed before a new at- tempt was made. On the 18th. of August, the patience of the Turkish leaders became quite ex- hausted ; and they once more made an attack on the castle of St. Michael, with the resolution of continuing it day and night until the towns were taken. A previous cannonade had almost rased a part of the walls of St. Michael; but it was in vain that the enemy endeavoured to break through the barriers which the besieged formed with their bodies. The assault was suspended for some time, and was again renewed after sun-set ; but the as- sailants, disheartened by their frequent repulses soon gave up the attempt for the night. August the 19th. the assault was renewed with undiminished resolution, and continued on the 20th, but with little success on the part of the enemy, though at a great expense of life on the side of the besieged. The garrison had by this time become greatly diminished, the walls were mined in every direction, many of the outworks were in the hands of the Turks, and the Knights advised the Grandmaster to blow them up and to retire into the fortress of St. Angelo. But La Va- lette sternly rejected this counsel, and determined to keep his ground to the last. No fresh assault was made until the 1st. of September, when the Janissaries endeavoured **14 242 ITINERARY OF MALTA. again to take possession of the breach; but their attempts were frustrated by the courage of their adversaries, and after a dreadful carnage they were obliged to retire from the conflict. At this crisis, when the battle was almost won by the valour of the knights, the long expected succours arrived from Sicily. The forces assembled were two hun- dred knights, and about eight thousand veteran troops, who disembarked on the morning of the 7th. of September, in the bay of Mellieha, together with their arms and military stores. As soon as this expedition was landed, the Viceroy set sail and returned back to Sicily. Though warned of the arrival of this reinforce- ment, the Turks imagined that nothing more would be tried than to force the entrance of the Great Harbour. Under this impression, they blocked the entrance with stakes and booms, and held themselves in readiness to defend the barrier. Their consternation, consequently, was extreme, when their scouts announced that a Christian army had actually landed, and was in full march against their camp. Rumour magnified the Si- cilian troops into an overwhelming force, and without waiting to ascertain their real force, the Turkish general instantly drew his garrison out of Fort St. Elmo, abandoned all his heavy ord- nance, and hurried on board his fleet. Scarcely, ITINERARY OF MALTA. 243 however, had he accomplished this sudden move- ment, than he obtained authentic information as to the number of his new enemies, and filled with shame, he ordered his army to be relanded. But in a few hours the labour of months had been rendered futile. The Maltese had already levelled his lines and intrenchments, and the standard of St. John once more waved over the cavalier of St. Elmo. A few skirmishes took place in the interior between the two parties; but the last ef- forts of the Turkish leaders to retrieve a Ions: series of reverses were ineffectual. On the same day the whole army embarked, and immediately weighed anchor for Constantinople. Thus ended this memorable siege, in which 25,000 Turkish soldiers perished. On the other side, the loss was also great, amounting to be- tween seven and eight thousand citizens, besides two hundred and sixty knights. The 8th. of Sep- tember, the anniversary of the raising of the siege, is still continued to be celebrated as a general festival throughout the island. * * The chief part of the above sketch has been compi- led from Vol. ii. of the Knights of Malta, in Constable's Miscellany. 244 ITINERARY OF MALTA. INTERIOR of the ISLAND. Having visited all the interesting places in the city of Valetta and its suburbs, I shall proceed to point out what is most deserving of notice in the remaining part of the island. But as it is not my intention to describe every village in the country, which would only be tedious to the ge- neral reader, I shall herewith subjoin a list of them with their population, according to the census taken in the year 1835. Casals. Popul. Casals. Popul, Zeitun 6066 Gargur 1198 Birchircara 5649 Ashiak 1179 Zebbug 4545 Tarshien 1074 Curmi 4458 Gudia 998 Siggiewi 3774 Attard 942 Mosta 3737 Micabba 927 Zabbar 3687 Crendi 917 Zurrico 3266 Baizan 633 Nasshar 3131 Dingli 540 Luca 1517 Chircop 380 Lia 1276 Safi 237 The most remarkable objects of interest in these villages are the parish churches, which are in general well built, commodious, and plentifully ornamented with images and paintings. The ITINERARY OF MALTA. 245 Maltese are very liberal in this respect, and seem to vie with one another which shall possess the most splendid house of worship. In every village there is stationed a Deputy Luo- gotenente, or sheriff, who has a certain number of police under his command for the preservation of the peace. This officer is abilitated to act as magistrate, and may decide any civil cause, with- in the limits of his jurisdiction, not including a value of more than 21. Is. 8d. An appeal may be made from this court to the Session of the Dis- tricts, which is authorized to decide on any cause not including a higher interest than 41. 3s. 4d. The district of the CittaNotabile comprehends Ca- sal Mosta, Dingli, Zebbug and Siggiewi; that of Attard, Casal Birchircara, Lia, Balsan, Gargur and Nasshiar; that of Curmi, Casal Zurrico, Chir- cop, Crendi, Micabba and Sati; and that of Zei- tun, Casal Zabbar, Gudia, Ashiak, Tarscien and Luca. This court is held once a month, in the district village, and is presided over by a magis- trate from the city, and the Lord Luogotenente of the district. Appeals from the sentence of this Court must be made to the Second Hall of Just- ice in Valetta. None of the above tribunals have any jurisdiction over criminal cases, these are all tried at the courts of the capital. 246 ITINERARY OF MALTA. The common vehicle used for travelling in Mal- ta is called a calesse: a kind of carriage with two wheels, drawn by one horse or mule. Some of these conveyances are intended for two persons only, others carry four. The driver is obliged to walk or run at the side, and with a small piece of wood, called a niggicza, in which two short nails are fixed, pricks the animal in order to urge him onward. The roads in the country, especial- ly those leading to the principal villages, are in general sufficiently good for the run of these vehi- cles; but in the uninhabited part, they are rugged, and in some cases travelling on horseback would be dangerous. The hire of a good horse for a day is about five shillings, the same price is ge- nerally paid for a calesse. Having made these preliminary observations, I shall imagine the traveller leaving Port desBom- bes, and taking the principal road, called St. Giu- seppe, towards the Old City. After proceeding for about two miles, he will reach a long suc- cession of arches which form part of THE ACQUEDUCT. This stupendous work was begun in the year 1610, during the reign of the Grandmaster Alofio Wignacourt, and was completed in the space of five years. Previous to its erection, in case of ITINERARY OF MALTA. 247 scarcity of water in summer, owing to little rain having fell during winter, the inhabitants of the town were obliged to transport water from a spring at the end of the Great Harbour, called Ain Filep, which made it very expensive and inconvenient. In order to provide a sufficient supply, several springs were united together by subterraneous conduits, and their waters made to flow into one channel. The chief spring rises at a place called Diar Chandul, about two miles west of Citta Vecchia. As far as Casal Attard the acqueduct is underground, it afterwards alter- nately rises and falls with the unevenness of the ground, until it reaches the city. The whole length of its course is about nine and a half English miles. About five miles from Valetta, a little to the right of the San Giuseppe road, are the GARDENS AND PALACE OF ST. ANTONIO, built by the Grandmaster De Paula, and after- wards appropriated as a country-seat by his suc- cessors. The Palace is spacious and commodious, and the situation exceedingly pleasant. The gar- den is extensive and contains a great abundance of fruit-trees, laid out in a very neat and regular order. The numerous ponds and fountains which are met with in the paved walks, and which may 248 ITINERARY OF MALTA. be made to scatter out water in different direc- tions, add considerably to the interest of the place- Though not open to the public, any person may obtain permission to visit these gardens by appli- cation for a ticket at the Military Secretary's Office • CITTA VECCHIA, Or LA NOTABILE. Leaving St. Antonio, and passing through Ca- sal Attard, where there is a fine church, half an hour's ride will bring the traveller to the Old City, situated on one of the most elevated parts of the island, and nearly in its centre. It is sur- rounded with walls, and defended with bastions and other modern fortifications, which render it exceedingly strong. Before the arrival of the Arabs, a much more extensive space was enclos- ed within the walls, but it was diminished by them in order to render its defence more easy and prac- ticable. In early times this city bore the same name with the island, and was called Melita, according to a quotation from Ptolemy the Geographer, lib. iv. c. 3. "Insulae in alto Mari Pelagiae has sunt, Melite insula, in qua civitas Melite, et Chersone- sus, et Junonis templum, et Herculis templum." Upon the authority of Cicero and Diodorus Sicu- lus we learn that the capital of Malta contained many stately buildings, and was very rich in the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 249 style of its architecture. This evidence is substan- tiated by several remains, which are still seen scattered about the city, and by the vestiges of ancient baths, and temples which have occasion- ally been found whilst excavating, both within the walls and about the suburbs. During the domination of the Order of St. John, this city was governed by a Hakem or Ruler, chosen yearly by the Grandmaster, from among the principal Maltese citizens. He was ordinarily called the Captain of the Rod, and the jurisdiction of his court extended over the civil and criminal cases of all the villages on the island. The Ma- gistracy of the city consisted of three officers, called Giurati, who were also chosen annually by the sovereign. The civil Court was formed of a tribunal of three Judges, one of whom judg- ed all regular lawsuits, while the remaining two, called Idioti, were only permitted to decide upon certain causes of small moment. On the election of a new Grandmaster, the ceremony of inauguration was performed in this city. Early in the morning, the sovereign left Valetta, accompanied by his court, and escorted by a body guard with bands of music. On his arrival near the city, he was saluted by the mus- ketry and by the principal Giurato, who present- ed him with a bunch of artificial flowers, with an 250 ITINERARY OF MALTA. appropriate speech, and afterwards kissed hig hand. The procession then proceeded, until it joined the Bishop and the clergy, who come out to meet them. The Grandmaster was afterwards placed under a canopy bore on four poles by the Giurati, and continued walking until he arrived at the gates of the city, where a place was pre- pared for him to kneel upon, before which a cross was erected. After the gates were shut, the first Giurato stepped forward, bearing in his hand a silver dish, with two keys laid upon it of the same metal, and making a very low bow, addressed the sovereign in the following words: "Most Serene Lord, the Divine Majesty has been pleas- ed to favour us and this city, by placing over us so great a prince as lord and master; and the high honor is conferred upon me of presenting to Your Serene Majesty the keys of this city, in order that you may take possession thereof. Therefore, my colleagues and myself, in all hu- mility, beg of Your Most Serene Highness to deign to swear upon the habit of the Grand Cross, that you will observe all the privileges, and fran- chises, and usages of this city, and of the island of Malta, which were conceded to them by the Most Serene Sovereigns of Arragon and Sicily, and by the magnanimous Grandmasters of this sacred Order, the predecessors of Your Most ITINERARY OF MALTA. 251 Serene Highness, and command that the same be observed." The Grandmaster then laid his hand upon the cross on his breast, and said, "I am bound to do so; I swear." After the keys were delivered into his hand, the procession pro- ceeded to the cathedral, where a solemn Te Deum was sung, and after the celebration of mass, the pageant terminated. The ceremony of consecrating the bishops of Malta is also performed in the cathedral of tins city. The Cathedral and the ancient Magisterial Palace are the chief objects worthy of notice within the walls of the city. The site of the former building, according to tradition, was for- merly occupied by the residence of Publius, who was governor of the island, at the time of St. Paul's shipwreck. The edifice is built in the Corinthian style, and contains an altar composed of several kinds of very rich marble. In the up- per part of the building there is a small library, and a few antiques which have been found from time to time in excavations made about the city. The extensive view of the island from the terrace of the Cathedral is exceedingly fine, as it almost takes in the whole country. The ancient Magisterial Palace is a commo- dious building, and is used at present for the *** 14 252 ITINERARY OF MALTA. monthly sessions of the District Court of Nota- bile. Besides the cathedral there are two con- vents in the city, one a monastery of Benedictine nuns, annexed to which is a small but neat church. The Bishop's Palace and Theological Semina- ry are situated close by the cathedral, and are worthy of notice. Adjoining the latter building is the supposed site of the ancient temple of Apollo. The suburbs of the city, called Rabbato, contain several large buildings, among which are four monasteries, and two hospitals, one called Delia Saura, and the other dedicated to Santo Spirito. The former was founded by several legacies left by pious individuals, and the latter appears to have been a public establishment instituted at a very early period. It is at present under the direction of the local government. st. Paul's cave. One of the most interesting objects in the suburbs of Citta Vecchia is the Grotto of St.PauI, situate underneath a church dedicated to the same saint. According to tradition, St. Paul, accompanied by Luke the Apostle, and Trofimus, resided in this cave for the space of three months, the time of his stay upon the island, in order to give the tale some appearance of consistency ITINERARY 01' MALTA. 253 a famous writer on Malta assigns Paul's "modes- ty and humility" as the reason of his choosing such a habitation; for it cannot be supposed, ar- gues the same writer, that the barbarous inhabi- tants, who manifested their kindness in so signal a manner to the apostle, or that the most noble and courteous Publius, who w as so greatly indebt- ed to him, would have willingly suffered Paul to occupy so mean a dwelling. Nor can it be ima- gined that the apostle was here kept prisoner, after the centurion had forbid the soldiers to kill any of the criminals, whom he had brought with him, in order to save Paul's life! The veneration for this cave very much in- creased about the beginning of the seventeenth century, when a citizen of Cordova, named Fra Giovanni, left his native country, and came to Malta in order to tenant it. This anchorite had a chapel erected over the grotto of St. Paul, de- dicated to St. Publius, which was afterwards very much enlarged by the Grandmaster Lascaris, and enriched with donations of a vast number of relics by the reigning Pontiffs of Rome. Among these Ciantar enumerates a piece of the true cross on which Christ was crucified, a little of the Virgin Mary's milk, some remains of not less than six of the apostles, and of about fifty other saints ! ! ! 15 254 ITINERARY OF MALTA. The descent to the grotto is by a convenient staircase, leading down from the chapel. The grotto itself is of a concave and circular form, not more than twelve yards in diameter, and about eight feet high in the centre. A fine mar- ble statue of St. Paul, with a latin inscription, occupies the middle of the cave, before which several lights are kept continually burning. The material of which the grotto is formed is a soft magnesian lime-stone, and reckoned very effica- cious as a febrifuge! On the right of the entrance is the following inscription, placed there by the Grandmaster Em- manuel Pinto. D. O. M. Hac dextrum divi Pauli cryptce latus, terram asportantibus nunquam clausum 9 et nunquam deficiens, semper excisum, el nunquam decrescens, ut in majorem cresceret venerationem, eminentissimus H. 0. M. M. et Princeps seven. Fr. D. Emman, Pinto nobiliori auxit ornatu MDCCXLVIII. The opinion is quite common among the na- tives, that the stone of which this cave is com- posed is continually regenerating, and that although a sufficient quantity has been taken away to load several vessels, the dimensions of ITINERARY OF MALTA. 255 the cave remain precisely the same. It would be useless to adduce here any proofs to shew the glaring absurdity and inconsistency of this opi- nion; such tales passed current during the ig- norance of the dark ages, but the common sense of the present day will treat them as fables. A miraculous agency is assigned for the above phe- nomenon, as this at once removes every objec- tion which may be brought against it from any natural cause. The antiquity of the above grot- to, as well as the false notion of the miraculous growth of the stone, have been ably confuted by papal writers. CATACOMBS. The Catacombs of St. Paul are situated ^.bout five minutes walk from the church, whither the sacristan generally accompanies all travellers with a supply of tapers, which he lights before entering. The descent to the entrance is about nine feet deep, by a staircase three feet wide, lead- ing to a kind of gallery dug under ground, with a great number of others branching off from the principal, and also from the secondaries. The sides of these passages contain many niches to receive the body, cut in the walls without any regular order; some are entirelv uncovered, 256 ITINERARY OF MALTA. while others are arranged with more order, in two stones, and partly closed with a layer of mortar raised up in a circular form. These se- pulchres arc of different sizes, some proportion- ably formed for infants, which generally occupy the sides, whilst in many of the larger ones, it may be seen from a couple of circular holes suf- ficiently large to receive the head, that they were intended for two full-grown persons. There are several halls among these galleries; the roof of one is supported by a group of rough fluted columns, and on the floor of the same are two circular blocks, about four feet in diameter, flat on the top, with a low edge round the cir- cumference. Some are of opinion that the latter were used for washing the bodies before burial. The area of these subterraneous excavations cannot now be determined, as many of the pas- sages have been walled up, lest the curious visi- tant should lose himself in such a labyrinth, which according to tradition has several times happened. The stone of which these catacombs are formed is very soft and porous, and consumes away very fast by the dampness which prevails so low underground. Besides the above there are other similar ex- cavations in the Citta Notabile, many of which have been closed up. One of them, however^ ITINERARY OF MALTA. 257 called by the natives Abbatla, in the district of Bit Riebu, about a quarter of a mile outside the suburbs, still remains open. The descent to the principal part of these catacombs is from a well, at a few paces distant from one of the subterra- neous apartments. About fifteen feet below the surface of the earth is a regular door way, in which there has been a wooden door. After pass- ing the threshold, there is a chamber about 19 feet long by 14 wide, excavated in the rock which is rather soft, the roof being supported by an arch and two pillars formed in excavating. The chamber contains several sepulchres, and a round block similar to that which I have mention- ed in the catacombs of St Paul. Upon the arch over the farthest sepulchre, there is an inscription, of which the following is all that can be deciphered : NOT N iTO BI XITINPAC PACEMANiST ACV ATIO P-SITAE INHoCAOCO RECOR From the tenor of what can be gathered from the above, it may be concluded, that it was the work of Christians. *15 253 ITINERARY OF MALTA. There is generally much extravagance in the opinions entertained concerning the original de- sign of these, as well as other subterraneous sepulchral excavations. Many will have that they were formed by the primitive christians, who, during times of persecution, lived and buried the bodies of their confessors and martyrs in them. This opinion prevails at Rome, and consequent- ly a number of labourers are kept constantly at work at the catacombs, and as soon as they dis- cover a repository with any of the marks of its being that of a saint, what is found within is immediately taken care of. The principal mark of its sanctity is a small projection in the side of the gallery, a little below the repository, which sometimes contains pieces of phials, tinctured with various colours, in which it is pretended that the blood of the martyrs was preserved, in order xo distinguish them from others. This imposition has no foundation to support it, and I would just remark, that the same custom pre- vails unto the present day in some places of Asia Minor. While at Castro Rosso, on the coast of Caramania, 1 observed several small mud-hillocks, piled up above the graves, in which were fixed small pieces of broken glass and earthenware of various colours. ITINERARY OF MALTA. 250 Against the above opinion, concerning the de- sign of these catacombs, it may be justly argued, that at a time when Christians were openly per- secuted, it was not at all probable, that such vast undertakings could have been carried on with- out the knowledge of the persecutors, nor that any inimical government would have permitted the work to be prosecuted in opposition to their own proceedings. If, again, these were com- pleted during seasons of peace, they must have been public, and being found in such exposed si- tuations, just without the city, would never have been useful for a place of refuge. It is my opinion, that the catacombs of Malta were originally the work of the Phoenicians, or the Romans, whose general manner it was to bury in caves; nor was the custom of interring as we do now, in the open air, or in churches, ever made use of before Christianity introduced it. The Romans probably derived the custom of burying their dead in such subterraneous cemeteries from the Phoenicians; for, that the same was prevalent with them, is very evident from the numerous catacombs to be found in Rome. At length, however, they derived from the Greeks the man- ner of burning their dead bodies, and as this came gradually into general use, the catacombs fell into total neglect. In this state, we may *M5 260 ITINERARY OF MALTA. suppose that the Christians took possession of them in times of persecution, where they conceal- ed themselves, because it was not so likely that they would be searched after in such abandoned places. VY hen the empire became christian, they again fell into that state of disuse in which they are found at present. ANCIENT TOMBS OF BINGEMMA. About one hour's walk to the west of Citta Vec- chia is a hill called Ta B'wgemma, in which are cut a number of sepulchral grots, of different sizes, and varying in their internal formation. At pre- sent, many of them are choked up with rubbish, and others serve as sheep-cotes and stables for cattle. Some appear to have been originally in- tended for one person only, whilst others were designed for two or three, as may be seen from the circular inlets made to receive the heads. A little above the tombs are cut small niches in the wall, apparently destined as stands for lamps. The caves occupy one side of the mountain, and are placed one above another in three tiers or rows. Several large caves contain no tombs whatever, and were probably designed for a dif- ferent purpose. Some have supposed that this place formed the ITINERARY OF MALTA. 261 eemeterv of the Essenes, a sect among the Jews, whose principal residence was the west side of the Lake Asphaltites, and whose manner of life was very retired and recluse. Leaving aside the want of all historical evidence to establish the fact, that any number of this sect ever existed on the island, the Arabic name, which the hill has retained, goes somewhat to nullify this supposition. Besides, there is another place not far from Citta Vecchia, close by the hill called Emtarfa, which has pre- served, until the present day, the name of Kboor- el-Yehood, the Graves of the Jews: hence it is not likely that this people possessed two burial-places so close to each other, or that they ever existed here in such numbers as to render this necessary.* As to the style of the above tombs, very little canbe argued therefrom, since different nations of antiquity buried their dead in the same manner. The small village of Siloah, in the valley of Je- hoshaphat, consists of huts formed from a number of Jewish sepulchres, cut in the rock at the foot of Mount Olivet, and which bear much resem- blance to those of Bingemma. The Sepulchres of the Kings and of the Judges, about a mile to * If in the above sentence I have confounded a parti- cular body of the Jews with the Jews in general, I have done no more /,:, '.'""" \'.,vo, l found in the house, overturning the furniture, breaking off vine-branches and strewing thern through the rooms, and daubing the doors and walls with soot. These, and other extravagances, however, have long since become obsolete. The chief town of the island of Gozo is called Rabat or Rabbato, besides which there are six ca- sals or villages scattered over the country. The following is a list of the population in the town and in the casals, according to the census taken in 1835. souls souls Citta Rabbato 5596 Casal Sheukia 1578 Casal Nadur 3804 — Sannat 1079 — Shiaara 1996 — Zebbug 843 — Gharb 1631 Total. 16,530 The dwellings of this island, in general, but especially those of the villages, will bear no com- parison with the well-built houses of Malta. In this respect the Gozzitans are behind their neigh- bours, the Maltese, after every allowance, is made for the greater difficulty they have in procuring the materials. The stone of Gozo is much softer than that of Malta, and is not so abundant. In every village of the island there is a com- modious church, besides five others in the city of Rabbato. ITINERARY OF GOZO, 30i BAY OF MIGIARRO. This bay is situated on the south-east extremi- ty of the island, and is the principal harbour for those boats which ply between it and Malta. The bay is shallow, only affording anchorage to small craft, and is quite exposed towards the north- east. In 1605, a small fort was built here by the Grandmaster Garzes, in order to command the bay, and to act in conjunction with the fort erected on the island of Comino, for the defence of the strait. This fortress is at present aban- doned, as its use was subsequently superseded by another, called FORT CHAMBRAY. The building; of this fortress was commenced in the year 1749 by the Bailiff Jacobo Francesco de Chambray, a Norman Knight, who expended a large portion of his property in its erection; but, dying before the work was brought to a ter- mination, he bequeathed the fifth part of his estate for carrying through the design. This not being sufficient, the council of the Order made up the deficiency, and called the fort after the name of its original founder Fort Chambray. The fort is situated about ten minutes' walk from the shore, on a high eminence called Rew et-Taffal. The walls are about a mile in extent, 302 ITINERARY OF GOZO. and are defended on the west by a good ditch, and strengthened by several outworks. Towards the south it is fortified by the native rock, which rises up almost perpendicularly from the sea to the height of one hundred and fifty feet. Within the fort is a commodious barrack, capable of quartering a sufficient force for its defence. The ascent of the hill of Migiarro towards this fort, as also the land about the beach, is well cul- tivated. TOWN OF RABBATO. The distance from Chambray to Rabbato is three miles and half, over a good road, leading through a fine and level part of the country, in the highest state of cultivation. The citadel stands upon an eminence, nearly in the centre of the island, and is a little more than half a mile in circumference. It is ascended by a steep stair-case, and is surrounded by a ditch, where the walls are not raised upon the perpendicular rock on which the castle is built. These fortifications are at present in a very ruinous condition, and it is not probable that they will ever be restored, as the citadel itself is commanded by several hills in the vicinity, which render its situation by no means secure. With the exception of the Court-house, very little is to be seen within the walls but ITINERARY OF GOZO. 303 miserable dwelling houses. The principal building is the church, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, which is also in a delapidated condition, although some vestiges are still left of its former grandeur. In the belfry of this church I observed a bell with this inscription, " Expello demones tern- pestatesq. sereno" I believe the same virtue is at- tributed to most of the church-bells among the Papists, — a privilege which they receive at their baptism ! From the terrace of this church there is a very extensive and delightful view of the whole country. In the suburbs of the citadel is the parish-church, dedicated to St. George, and two convents, one of friars belonging to the Minor? Conventuali of St. Francis,and the other of Augustinian Eremita- ni. Close by the latter is an extensive cemetery, in one angle of which is the following inscription: Galli hanc Gaulos Insulam imperantes anno Dom. CIOCCLXX. , ne sacra ossa prasulum, ac virorum illustrium, qui cum S. Ludovico Francorum Rege, profecti, ac ab Africa post bellum sacrum hue translata, oblivioni darent; hoc sacrum coemeterium erexere f in quo singulis lapides sepulcralet 304 ITINETIARY OF GOZO. anaglyph is distinctos propriis insigniis decoratos pomere. III. ac Rev. D, Paulus Alpheran de Bussan, Melita Episcopus, qui hunc dormitionis locum visitavit anno MDCCLV. M. Sept die XJL, ut reliqutB ex maximo numero lapidcs vetustiores, insignioresq. invent i. M'Dowall, Author of " Caesar, with Vocabulary."' 2c Edition, Revised and Corrected. 3s. bound. Eutropius and Anrelius Victor, with Vocabu- lary containing the meaning of every word that occurs in the Text JJyR. J. Neilson, A.M. New Edition, Revised and Corrected by Wm. M k DowaTt 2s. bound. Stewart's First Lessons in Arithmetic, for Junior Classes; containing Exercises on Simple and Compound Quantities arranged so as to enable the Pupil to perform the Operations with the greatest facility and correctness. New Edition. Revised, with Exercises on the proposed Decimal Coinage. 6d. in stiff wrapper. Answers to Ditto, 6d. Stewart's Practical Treatise on Arithmetic, Arranged for PUPILS ix Classes. ffeio E