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Helier’s, &c.), Is Kent (Dover, Eamsgate, Margate), 3s 6d Killarney Lakes, Is Leamington (and Environs), Is Liverpool and Birkenhead (with Environs), Is London and Environs, 3s 6d Manchester and Salford, Is Moffat Spa (Dumfriesshire), Is Nottinghamshire, 3s 6d Scarborough and Whitby, Is Scotland (Twenty-fourth Edition), 8s 6d Do. Cheap Edition, Is Skye, Is Surrey Sussex (Brighton, Hastings, Eastbourne), 2s 6d Sutherlandshire, .Is Trosachs and Loch Lomond, Is Wales (complete in 1 vol.), 5s Do. Cheap Edition, Is Do. North, 3s 6d Do. South, 2s 6d I Warwickshire (Birm., Leamington, Stratford), 2s 6d Where shall we Go P (Watering-Places) 2s 6d; cloth 3s Yorkshire (with Map), 5s I___ DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/blacksguidetoduc01adam BLACK'S GUIDE TO CORNWALL The Editor will be glad to receive any suggestions from Tourists using this Guide Book. Communications to be addressed to the Publishers. THE LIZARD. BLACK’S II GUIDE TO THE DUCHY CORNWALL TWELFTH EDITION Cilli'tTj fHap anil Illustrations. EDINBURGH ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, 4#3 C U4 / J3S CONTENTS. PLACES OF CHIEF INTEREST. Bodmin, 17 Lostwithiel, 22 Botallack Mine, 92 Lundy Island, 116 Camelford, 29 Caradon Mines, 6 Marazion, 83 Carclaze Mine, 49 Padstow, 41 Penryn, 69 Falmouth, 69 Penzance, 86 Fowey, 24 Redruth, 77 Hayle, 81 Helston, 78 St. Austell, 47 St. Ives, 82 Land’s End, 92 St. Neot’s, 9 Lanhydrock, 20 Launceston, 95 Scilly Isles, 107 Liskeard, 5 Tintagel, 34 Lizard, 76, 95 Truro, 61 Looe, 14 Index, 119 Vi CONTENTS. PACE Introduction ......... vii. KOUTE I.—From PLYMOUTH to PENZANCE. Salt ash—St. German’s — Liskeard —Bodmin —Lostwithiel—S t. Austell —Truro—R edruth—Pool—Camhorne—Hayle—Marazion— Penzance . 1-S8 Branch Route—From Liskeard to East Looe .... 12-16 Do. From Bodmin to Fowey ..... 20-28 Do. From Bodmin to Bossiney..... 28-39 Do. From Bodmin to Padstow ..... 39-44 Do. From Grampound to Padstow . . . . 59-GO Do. From Truro to Falmouth ..... 67-71 eo Excursion—From Falmouth to the Lizard Point, with a survey of Falmouth Harbour ........ 72-76 Branch Route—From Redruth to Helston ..... 77-80 Rambles round Penzance ....... SS-93 Excursion—By Water, from Penzance to the Lizard Point . . 93-95 ROUTE II.—LAUNCESTON to BODMIN. Launceston— Five Lanes—Jamaica Inn —Four Hole Cross—Temple— Bodmin ......... 95-101 ROUTE III.—LAUNCESTON to PADSTOW. Davidstow—Camelford—St. Teath—St. Kew—Wadebridge— Padstow— or from Wadebridge vid Egloshayle to Bodmin .... 101-102 ROUTE IV.—SALTASH vid LAUNCESTON TO KILKHAMPTON. Subsidiary Route. Callington— Launceston— Werrington—Wliitstone—KiLKBAMPTON . 102-104 ROUTE V.—PLYMOUTH to PENZANCE— By Road. Hints for a Three Weeks’ Pedestrian Tour Excursion—To the Scilly Islands . . 104-105 . 107-117 INTRODUCTION. The Duchy of Cornwall is one of the most important touring districts in England. Its position—that of the south-westermost land of Great Britain—has invested it with a peculiar interest, while the bold scenery of its coast line, and the agreeable aspect of its landscapes, have made it a pleasant and refreshing resort of the traveller. The country can boast of perhaps the most equable climate in the British Isles. To the geologist and mineralogist the Cornish rocks present many important phenomena, and to the antiquary there is an ample store of objects deserving notice and research. Cornwall, including the Scilly Islands, covers an area of 869,878 acres, or 1359 square miles, and contained a population in 1861 of 369,390 persons, in 1871 of 362,343, and in 1881 of 329,484 (males 153,779, females 175,705). It is represented in parliament by 13 members—4 for the county (2 each from the east and west divisions) and 9 from the boroughs. Climate .—Snow seldom lies in Cornwall for more than a few days, and the winters are not severe. The sea-winds, except in a few sheltered places, prevent timber-trees from attaining to any great size, but the air is mild, and the lower vegetation, especially in the Penzance district, is almost southern in its luxuriance. This is partly due to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which passes but a short distance west of the Scilly Islands. A good deal of rain INTRODUCTION. viii falls, and the atmosphere is slightly humid but on the whole healthy. Geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, hydrangeas, and camellias grow to a considerable size, and flourish through the winter at Penzance and round Falmouth ; and in the Scilly Isles a great variety of exotics may be seen flourishing in the open air. Stone fruit, and even apples and pears, do not generally attain the same full flavour as in Devonshire, owing to the want of dry heat The pinaster, the Pinus austriaca, Pinus insignis, and other firs succeed well in the western part of the county. All native plants display a perfection of beauty hardly to be seen elsewhere, and the furze, including the double blossomed variety, and the heaths, among which Erica vagans and ciliaris are peculiar to Cornwall, cover the moorland and the cliff summits with a blaze of the richest colour. Geology .—The Carbonaceous formations of North Devon extend into the north-western angle of the county, but by far the greater part of Cornwall belongs to the Devonian or grauwacke series of rocks, consisting of slates and shales, which occupy much of South Devon, and occur again in North Devon and Somersetshire. From the Devonians four large patches of granite project at intervals. The Land’s End district forms the most westerly of these granite patches, each one of which is of considerably less area than the granitic region of Dartmoor, east and north of which true granite does not occur in England except in Cumber¬ land and Westmoreland. A large mass of serpentine occupies the district about the Lizard Head; and the Devonian rocks are traversed by numerous veins and out¬ breaks of trap and of “ elvans,”—the name locally given to porphyries, granitic and felspathic. The most curious pile of weathered granite is the Cheesewring, near Liskeard. Roche Rocks are formed by protruding trap. The mineral veins, for which Cornwall has so long been famous, occur in both the Devonian rocks and the granitic. The chief mineral productions of Cornwall, considered as objects of trade, are tin and copper, the former being found nowhere in the United Kingdom except in Cornwall INTRODUCTION. IX and Devon. Both these metals occur most plentifully in the Devonian series, but for the most part in the neighbour¬ hood of granite, or of its modification, elvan. Tin occurs in both granite and slate ; copper for the most part in granite. The most important Cornish copper ore is the sulphuret, commonly known as grey ore by the miners; but copper pyrites, or the bisulphuret of copper, occurs far more frequently in both Cornwall and Devon. The tin of Cornwall has been known and worked from a period long before the dawn of certain history. Copper, which lies deeper in the earth, and consequently cannot be “ streamed ” for, was almost unnoticed in the county until the end of the 15tli century, and little attention was paid to it until the last years of the 17 th. No mine seems to have been worked exclusively for copper before the year 1700; and up to that time the casual produce had been bought by Bristol merchants, to their great gain, at the rate of from £2 : 10s. to £4 per ton. In 1718 a Mr. Coster gave a great impulse to the trade by draining some of the deeper mines, and instructing the men in an improved method of dressing the ore. From that period the present trade in Cornish copper may be said to date its rise, the annual produce, with occasional exceptions, having until recent times progressively increased. In 1851 the mines of Devon and Cornwall together were estimated to furnish one-third of the copper raised throughout other parts of Europe and the British Isles (De la Beclie). It has been calculated that the clear profits from fourteen of the most productive mines in Cornwall (both tin and copper), during the present century, have reached to £2,750,640, the value of the entire produce having been £13,158,203. From this gross sum the expenses of labour, materials, working costs, and “ dues ” or royalties have to be deducted. The number of years during which these fourteen mines have been worked varies from 5 to 66. The underground wealth of Cornwall is, however, not only diminishing in quantity and quality, but the process of raising it is becoming too expensive to be continued. X INTRODUCTION. No copper lodes of great importance have been discovered of late years, while the surface or stream tin is nearly exhausted. Almost all the Cornish tin is now raised from deep mines at heavy expense, and has to compete with the vast supplies which arrive from foreign countries. Fisheries .—The fisheries of Cornwall and Devon are the most important on the south-west coasts. The pilchard is in great measure confined to Cornwall, living habitually in deep water not far west of the Scilly Isles, and visiting the coast in great shoals. Twelve millions of pilchards have been taken in a single day; and the sight of this great army of fish passing the Land’s End, and pursued by hordes of dog-fish, hake, and cod, besides vast flocks of sea¬ birds, is one of the most striking that can be imagined. The headquarters of the fishery are Mount’s Bay and St Ives, but- boats are employed all along the coast. When brought to shore the pilchards are carried to the cellars to be cured. They are then packed in hogsheads, each con¬ taining about 2400 fish. These casks are largely exported to Naples and other Italian ports—whence the fishermen’s toast, “Long life to the Pope, and death to thousands.” Besides pilchards, mackerel are taken in large numbers on the southern coast. Conger eels of great size, weighing from 60 to 120 lbs., are found near the shores, and among other fish should be mentioned mullet and John Dory. Recently a brisk trade in “ sardines ” has been established —young pilchards taking the place of the real Mediter¬ ranean fish. History .—Although there can be no doubt that Corn¬ wall and Devonshire are referred to under the general name of Cassiterides, or the “ Tin Islands,” it cannot be said that we have any authentic historical knowledge of either county until after the Roman conquest of Britain. It remains uncertain whether Phoenician or Carthaginian traders actually visited Cornwall, or whether they obtained their supplies of tin through Gaul. But we know that the tin of the district was largely exported from a very early period, and that the mines were still worked under the INTRODUCTION. XI Romans. Cornwall formed part of the British Kingdom of Damnonia, which long resisted the advance of the Saxons westward, and remained almost unbroken in power until the reign of Ine of Wessex (688-726). From that time the borders of the British Kingdom gradually narrowed, until, about the year 926, Athelstane drove the Britons from Exeter, and fixed the Tamar as the limit between them and the Saxons of Devon. The British bishop, Conan, submitted to archbishop Wulfhelm of Canterbury after Athelstane’s conquest, and was reappointed by him in 936. The Cornish see was afterwards merged in that of Crediton, and in 1050 the place of the united sees was transferred to Exeter, where it remained till 1876. But Cornwall, although the mass of the people remained Celtic, speedily received Saxon masters, and in the Domesday Survey the recorded names of the owners of land in the days of the Confessor are all Saxon. The Conqueror bestowed nearly the whole county on his half-brother, Robert of Mortain, and thus arose the “Earldom of Cornwall, which was considered too important a possession to be held by anyone under royal rank, deemed too powerful to be trusted in the hands of any but men closely akin to the royal house, and the remains of which have for ages formed the apanage of the heir-apparent to the crown.” Of the earls, the most important were the brother of Henry III., Richard, king of the Romans, and his son Edmund. In 1336 the earldom was raised to a Duchy by Edward III. in favour of his son, the Black Prince, and of his heirs, eldest sons of the Kings of England. Since that time the Prince of Wales has always been Duke of Cornwall. When the Duchy was first created by Edward III., the lands belonging to and dependent on it included, not only the great open moors of Cornwall, and Dartmoor Forest in Devonshire, but 9 parks, 53 manors, 10 castles, 13 boroughs and towns, and 9 hundreds. Considerable changes and reductions have, however, been since made, and the income of the Duchy is at present derived from lands in Somerset and Devon as well as in Cornwall itself. The history of INTRODUCTION. xii the Duchy is virtually that of Cornwall. There has been little to connect it with the general history of the country except during the Civil War, when Cornwall was for the most part royalist, and some sharp fighting took place within its bounds. Besides much skirmishing, there were two important battles, that of Braddock Down (Jan. 19, 1642-3), and that of Stratton (May 15, 1643), both gained for the King. Antiquities .—No part of England is so rich as Cornwall in antiquities of the primaeval period. These chiefly abound in the district between Penzance and the Land’s End, but they occur in all the wilder parts of the county. They maybe classed as follows:—(1.) Cromlechs. These in the west of Cornwall are called “ quoits,” with a reference to their broad and flat covering stones. The largest and most important are those known as Lanyon, Caerwynen, Mulfra, Chun, and Zennor quoits, all in the Land’s End district. Of these Chun is the only one which has not been thrown down. Zennor is said to be the largest in the British Isles, while Lanyon, when perfect, was of suffi¬ cient height for a man on horseback to ride under. Of those in the eastern part of Cornwall, Trethevy near Liskeard and Pawton in the parish of St Breock are the finest, and have remained intact. (2.) Rude uninscribed monoliths are common to all parts of Cornwall. Those at Boleit, in the parish of Buryan, are the most important. (3.) Circles, none of which are of great dimensions. The principal are the Hurlers, near Liskeard; the Boskednan, Boscawen-un, and Tregeseal circles; and that called the Dawns-un, or Merry Maidens. All of these, except the Hurlers, are in the Land’s End district. The other circles that may be mentioned are the “ Trippet Stones,” in the parish of Blisland, and one at Duloe. (4.) Long alignments or avenues of stones, resembling those on Dartmoor, but not so perfect, are to be found on the moors near Roughtor and Brown Willy. A very remarkable monument of this kind exists in the neighbourhood of St Columb, called the “Nine Maidens.” It consists of nine rude pillars placed INTRODUCTION. Xlll in a line, while near them is a single stone known as the “ Old Man.” (5.) Hut dwellings. Of these there are at least two kinds, those in the eastern part of the county resembling the beehive structures and enclosures of Dart¬ moor, and those in the west, comprising “ hut-clusters,” having a central court, and a surrounding wall often of considerable height and thickness. The beehive masonry is also found in connection with these latter, as are also (G.) Caves, or subterraneous structures, resembling those of Scotland and Ireland. (7.) Cliff castles are a characteristic feature of the Cornish coast, the chief being the “ Little Dinas” near Falmouth, Trevelgue, near St Columb, and Treryn, Men, Kenedjack, Bosigran, and others in the west. These are all fortified against the laud side. (8.) Hill castles, or camps, are very numerous. Castel-an-Dinas, near St Columb, is the best example of the earth-work camp, and Chun Castle, near Penzance, of the stone. Of early and mediaeval antiquities the most noticeable are crosses, scattered all over the county, and of various dates, from the 6th to the 16 th century, many resembling the early crosses of Wales; inscribed sepulchral stones of the 7th and 8th centuries, of which the “men scryffa” in Madron is a good example; and oratories of the early Irish type. St. Pirans is the most important of these. The Cornish churches, for the most part, belong to the Perpendicular style of architecture, and are generally low in the body, but with high and plain granite towers. The rich tower of Probus, however, is an exception, as well as the Church of St. Mary Magdalene at Launceston, the exterior of which is covered with sculpture. Within, the chief feature is the absence of a chancel arch. The castles of Launceston, Trematon, and Restormel seem to be of the time of Henry III., but the mounds which occur in the first two are no doubt much earlier,—possibly marking British strongholds. Tintagel has but a few shapeless walls. Of later castles there is Pendennis (built temp. Henry VIII.); St Michael’s Mount, although castellated at XIV INTRODUCTION. an early period, has nothing more ancient than the 15 th century. Language .—Of the Celtic dialects, Cornish, and Armoric, or the dialect of Brittany in France, resembled each other more than either of them did Welsh. This resemblance was, however, not so great as that of the Irish and Scotch Gaelic, but probably was as close as that of Spanish and Portuguese. The old Cornish language survives in a few words still in use in the fishing and mining commun¬ ities, as well as in the names of persons and places, but the last persons who spoke it died toward the end of the 18th century. It belonged to the Cymric division of Celtic, in which Welsh and Armoric are included. Sharpno^e Cleave Cro^sFt ,Beo£j3=^7 *^kwJL' Budc Hsm < "himi ^7 v i WuLemoirth. B tCir $/ i 'IhulJior Cradclin^,/ 1 C aTnli t»ak< lacbbstoy rhrCU/T 706 f* i ficgjnyrf&w- pNbrihcath i^A t»/ ; ../.- ■■■?-.'/' .Tippipticot adwo^dwjdfo KalJ}a*x>it v Tint ao>R H c J\-nh,„lr ovrii .... • PenaOick/H Trcbfirrtyw Shnd/t 0ttn'hamH* > 133 2 DauwiTfJk Pem/Lrt* rrUnUeU Dowjii ShmgfCti ■ ■ ■ OfaqUlstow 1 I.AfNCeSTUN ' ... ♦v' ■ s ' utrjifuun Trc1& ' C 5 '-'P*-vf. . --•Mifch.i.cLit ow ^MsStkWi Kih*orH Wil/nit ufata Tofcam' it (runv&ina. Trebitr-tJut- SlBrewi Jlenizi*ai t % W'wZj/* 4- 'Bolrs /hxtss >i o 6 ; /7,/u',y;. ■jv/r™ C^SJWi f . >v r-js _ / ^ fcW/^ «&»<' « V £>rx I..n7k\,lr\p ,^M AJ,u,II./t.f' • A / S. * I* 1 l . 1 . L;iii rvet ^ix/jpnriJu Bfpa)daaJ^ /A/ BtoelcajtXr* 4 .llhrrt o tt'n tj Zrvo&ttiafc ifamidc John.* L •T/.XFlvmoutl] TfSound. 'V..U,,,., PI y 1 VWB.rt e s a a.cl ijljSr^ noJiH/uj P- ■’ j > aiul />t.u!tkn£r l <■' ■wlnliiL' •u oorthJLx ... S!" Austell l?a;\r WLrf. Gerparv. i BlaelrK^ TfWUtg^ Veal un v .^' ; '20' JrJtfo™ vrtp’m] i *r\l'uai. Ae,vH «vi ; s e v '«r*trn «• /i Set'll apelP* Pr^tot-P-* , - J/was ‘ taven ^7 rrV J| >■ We-yW -Ap •If l.oi-i-1 r r T-a n."£#/i 5 (CiO)]RNWAL3I (EdST SECTION ) a tlf'jjvttie iGprpan VMM) MAN l , r Scalr of Mile S' %(nd7 fi .1. barthnlonu>\r. Bdu CORNWALL. ROUTE I.—From PLYMOUTH to PENZANCE. By Cornwall and West Cornwall Railway. [Saltash, 4J ra.; St. Germans, 5J m.; Liskeard, 8J m.; Bodwin Road, 9J m. ; Lostwithiel, 3J m.; Par, 4J m.; St. Austle, 4J m.; Grampound Road, I m.; Truro, 7J m.; Chacewater, 4J m.; Scorriergate, 3J m.; Redruth, 2£ m.; Pool, If m.; Camhome, If m.; Gwinnear, 2J m.; Hayle, 3 m.; St. Ive’s Road, 1J m.; Marazion, 5J m.; Penzance, 2 m. = 283 m. from London.] Total length of boute, 82 m. B3T The road route from Plymouth differs hut little from the course here indicated. After crossing the estuary of the Tamar upon the A lbert Bridge, (2240 feet in length)—Brunei’s noblest achievement—we pass Saltash (population 2293), and run along the northern hank of the river Lynher. On the opposite bank stands East Anthony, a mansion house built for Sir William Carew, in 1721, by Gibbs, the architect of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, London. Amongst the pictures preserved here are—portraits of Dr. Butts, Henry VIII.’s physician, immortalized by Sliakspeare, by Holbein ; Sir Kenelm Digby, and Admiral Van Tromp, Vandyck, and Richard Carew, author of the “ Survey of Cornwall,” by Reynolds. East Anthony Church is a plain but ancient building, dating from about 1400, seated in a hollow on a deep hill-side. It contains a brass to Margerie Arundel, d. 1420, and a memorial to the afore¬ said Richard Carew, d. 1620. A pair of stocks stands in the churchyard as a terror to all evil-doers, but somewhat neutralized in its effects by a couple of low stools, placed apparently for their accommodation. A ferry crosses the river to Trematon (“ tliree-hill ”) Castle, which reposes in lonesome grandeur among woods resonant with rooks. The ivy-draped ruins, which are of red sandstone, are surrounded by the remains of a well-defined fosse. Much of the B 2 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . material was made use of in the erection of the neighbouring mansion. The Castle was probably built soon after the Conquest, and conferred by the Conqueror upon the Earl of Cornwall. It was afterwards regarded as an appanage of the duchy, and a Stannary Court was regularly held here, whence arose the wide-spread reverence for “ Trematon Law.” Stout Sir Richard Grenville kept it, in 1549, against the Cornish miners who had joined in the great religious war of the west (see Froude’s History of England, voL iii.), but being induced to venture outside the castle-walls for the negotiation of an armistice, was made prisoner. Above the early English gateway, standing on the east side, hangs a bell, taken in the Spanish three-decker, the San Salvador del Mundo , captured by Sir John Jervis, a.d. 1797. The keep measures 66 feet by 32. The walls are 10 feet in thickness. A brook-watered valley separates this time-worn memorial of feudal times from ST. STEPHEN’S (population, 1377), the mother church of Saltash, and the adjacent village. The gray old lych-stone, whereon, in funerals, the corpse is rested for awhile, lies within the churchyard-porch. Below East Anthony lies Beggar’s Island, an occasional resort of the notorious Bampfylde Moore Carew, “ king of the gypsies,” and the prototype of Cole in Bulwer Lytton’s romance of “ The Disowned.” In the neighbourhood is Thankes (Lord Graves), seated on a wooded slope, and overlooking the restless estuary. The rail now crosses two inlets of Lynher river, and the tongue of land which separates them, SHE VIOCK (population, 559) being visible on the opposite shore. The antiquity of its church would delight an enthusiastic Oldbuck, and the caustic satire of its historian a violent non-conformist. It was erected by one of the Dawn ays, lords of the manor, at the same time that his lady built herself a barn ; and as the lady was liberal and the barn was large, while the knight was miserly and his church very small, the bam cost just three halfpence more than the church ! The painted east window, glowing with the richest dyes, and re¬ presenting the Saviour, Saints Alban, Paul, Peter, and Stephen, was erected at the restoration of the church in 1851. Sir Edward Courtenay and his wife (Lady Emmeline Dawnay), are here com¬ memorated by a stately monument and their costumed effigies Route 1 . ST. GERMANS. 3 The tower and spire are Early English, the nave and transept decorated ; the north aisle, is a Perpendicular addition. On the right lies Port Eliot, the beautiful seat of Earl St Germans (see post), and beyond it, ST. ERNEY (population, 90) a small wayside village of little interest. Polbathick occupies the base of a very pleasant hill, which commands the many arms of the Lynher, and the town of St. Germans. ST. GERMANS (population, 2678. Inn: Eliot Arms)— a small and ancient town, 230 miles from London; 7 miles by road, and 10 miles by water from Saltash ; 11 miles from Devon- port; 8 miles from Liskeard ; 9 miles from East Looe ; and 11 miles from Callington—derives its name, according to tradition, from St. Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, who visited Britain in 429, and again in 447 ; subdued a storm at sea by sprinkling the waves with a few drops of holy water; overcame the heretical disciples of Pelagius ; defeated a large body of Piets “ without the loss of a man” on his own side ; and finally died at Ravenna in the very odour of sanctity. Whether, indeed, it may rightly boast of so honourable “ a name-father” we know not, but certainly the saint has done little for the prosperity of the town, which straggles down the hill-side and along the river-bank ■with a very melancholy air. From 850 to 1049 it was, however, the seat of the bishopric of Cornwall, afterwards united with that of Devon , and its minster is well worthy of a cathedral city. The first Church founded here, to commemorate King Athel- stane’s victory, in 926, over Howel, king of the West Welsh, was made a collegiate church by King Knut. The present building (104 feet by 67 feet) has a Norman west front, but its other portions are of later date ; the south-west tower, Perpendicular, and the south aisle, Decorated. The octagonal north-west tower dates from the thirteenth century. The chancel fell into ruins in 1592, “upon a Friday, and very shortly after the public service was ended. The deeply recessed Norman porch in the west front, with its finely carved foliage and chevron mouldings, cannot fail to rivet the wandering eye. The north aisle is separated from the nave by five massive circular pillars ; the south aisle by round pillars which support six pointed arches. The windows present several examples of Early Geometrical tracery. Among the Eliot memorials is a fine one by Rysbrach to Edward Eliot, d. 1723. 4 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 imitated from the Duke of Buckingham’s monument in West¬ minster Abbey. A rude seat placed upon a square of tesselated pavement, is called The Bishop’s Chair. The font is Norman. Port Eliot (Earl St. Germans)—formerly called Porth Prior, from an Anglo-Saxon religious house granted to Richard Eliot in 1565—stands beside the ancient church, and notwithstanding extensive modernization, retains a venerable and stately character. The grounds are extensive and beautifully arranged, and a branch of the river Tidi widens here into an ample lake. Among the Art Treasures are— Bel and the Dragon, Rembrandt. An Old Man—the head (by Quintin Matsys) placed in drapery with a sombre background, by Rembrandt. John Hampden, date 1643. Family Picture of Richard Eliot, Esq., his wife and family, with Captain Hamilton and Mrs. Goldsworthy—date 1746—by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Edward Eliot Craggs, Lord Eliot—date 1788— Sir Joshua. Reynolds. View of Plymouth, from Catsdown—date 1748— Reynolds. Sir Joshua Reynolds—by himself. Edward James Eliot— Reynolds. Edward, first Lord Eliot— Reynolds. Harriet Eliot, his mother—daughter of Mr. Secretary Craggs — Reynolds. Ann Eliot, his sister, wife of Captain Bonfoy, R.N.— Reynolds. Edward Eliot—three portraits— Reynolds. Richard Eliot, and t brothers of first Lord Eliot— Reynolds. Captam John Eliot, j J The barony of Eliot was created in 1784 ; the earldom of St. Germans in 1815. The present Earl has filled the dis¬ tinguished office of Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. Outside the town, westward, is Bake, a manor belonging to Sir J. Copley, Bart. Catchfrench (T. Glanville, Esq.), a picturesque demesne, is situated 4 miles on the Liskeard road. A pleasant excursion may be made to MORVAL (population, 715), 8 miles south-west, crossing the river Seaton, and turning south¬ ward at Short Cross. On the woody border of a noble sheet of water formed by an inlet of the Looe river stands Morval House —Morval, the fenny dell—an Elizabethan mansion, occupied by Route 1 . MENHENIOT—LISKEARD. 5 the Hon. John Buller, and the birth-place, in 1755, of the celebrated judge, Sir Francis Buller. Its sloping roofs and quaint mullioned windows, its low porch and garlanded walls, are sure to attract the tourist’s gaze ; but he will be even better pleased with its trim gardens, broad reaches of smooth turf, and clusters of fragrant bowers. The pinnacled tower of the parish church rises prominently above the neighbouring trees, and “ invites the willing step.” The building contains memorials to members of the Coode, Mayow, and Kendall families. In 1471, Morval was inhabited by Master John Glynn, who had obtained the office of Under Steward to the Duchy of Cornwall in spite of the opposition of his enemy, a certain Thomas Clemens. Whereupon the latter got together a band of desperadoes, broke at night into Morval House, plundered it of its contents, and slew and cruelly mutilated the unfortunate Glynn. Some of the murderers were apprehended and removed to London for trial—Glynn’s widow averring that justice would tremble in the neighbourhood of Clemens and his band—but the issue is not recorded in the chronicles. 2£ miles south of Morval lies EAST LOOE (see Branch Route—Liskeard to East and West Looe). Resuming our railway route, and proceeding through a country which, however interesting in itself, is not enriched with the associations so dear to the topographer, we pass on the right Coldrinick (C. Trelawny; Esq.), and on the left the camp-crowned hill of Blacketon. Then the spire of MEN¬ HENIOT (population, 2205) and its cottages rise on the view and the rude, rough elevation of serpentine, known as Clicker Tor —its sides all garlanded with heath, and ferns, and grasses. Crossing a deep and leafy valley by means of a timber viaduct of unusually good design, a swift run brings us into the depths of hilly Liskerret —the modern. LISKEARD (population, 4480. Inns : Webb’s, the Bell, and Commercial. Market-day, Saturday); 225 miles from London, and 12 miles from Lostwithiel. Liskeard, “ the fortified placeman inconsiderable, and by no means lively market-town in the centre of a prosperous agricultural district, is partly built on a steep hill side, partly in a valley traversed by the Looe and Liskeard CanaL The site of its ancient castle is now planted as a public 6 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . walk, and in the centre stands the Grammar School, where “ Peter Pindar ” (Dr. Wolcot), and the erudite Dean Prideaux received their early education. The Church, dedicated to St. Martin, was shorn of its two western towers in 1627. Some portions of a nunnery of poor women, dedicated to the glory of St. Clare, are embodied in the houses of the “ Great Place.” Among the representatives of this small borough have been —Sir Edward Coke, James I.’s attorney-general, 1620 ; and Gibbon, the historian of the Decline and Fall of Eome, 1775. A smart skirmish took place on the neighbouring down of Bradock in 1643, between Sir Balph Hopton and his Koyalists, and Ruthven, the governor of Plymouth, and a body of Bound- heads. The latter were defeated with a loss of 1250 men taken prisoners, their ordnance and standards. Charles I. visited Lis- keard in 1644 and 1645. Within an easy distance of Liskeard lie the Caradon Copper Mines, the Cheesewring, the antiquities of St. Cleer, and the church of St. Neot’s. These may well he included in one day’s excursion. The Caradon Copper Mines have been excavated out of solid granite at the base of Caradon Hill (1208 feet), and are connected with the sea-shore, vid Liskeard and Looe, by a small railway worked by horses. Let us avail ourselves of its help to reach the mines. The scene is a fantastic one ; a clear swift stream runs into a deep valley between the twin hills, West and South Caradon. On the slopes of these hills, and in the hollow of the valley, are the banks of the copper mines, and the ground is dotted with groups of work-people—women and girls, in bright-coloured attire, hammering at lumps of ore, or sifting and washing them in the numerous water-courses which ripple around. The copper extends beneath the valley from side to side, and is richest where it lies deepest. Shafts descend to the lodes or veins in which the ore is embedded, and in these a succession of ladders wearies the legs and tests the patience of the curious explorator. The miner’s tools are—a gad, a pick, a sledge-hammer, a borer, a claying- bar, a needle, a scraper, a tamping-bar, a shovel, and a cartridge- tool for blasting with powder. These, with fuzees, slow match, powder-horn, corve, and wheel-barrow, complete his equipment. The first step, when the mining engineer has ascertained where the copper lies, is to sink a shaft and work a gallery until Rmte 1 . CAEADON COPPER MINES. 7 the lode is reached. This is the business of the tut-worlcera, who are generally paid so much a cubic fathom for the rock they excavate, earning, on an average, 45 to 65 shillings a month. The men who work the ore are called tributers. They generally undertake a particular portion of the lode, working in a sort of club or guild, called a pair, and dividing themselves into three gangs, each of which labours [eight hours at a time. These adventurers hire their “pitch” from the mine-owner, pay all their own expenses, and receive a certain per centage on the ore they procure ; so that they have a direct interest in their work, and every inducement, moreover, to work intelligently, as upon the nature of the ore which they excavate depends their profits. The ore being brought to the surface in baskets, has now to undergo sundry cleaning and purifying processes. (We confine ourselves here, be it remembered, to copper ore.) It is broken up with hammers, or by tampers worked by water-power, and the first quality— prills —divided into walnut-sized pieces by the cobbers (young girls). The second quality— dredge-ore —after having been crushed, is cast into a sieve or “jigging” machine, and “jigged” up and down in a hutch, of water. The worst quality— halvans —is mixed up with the residuum of the better sorts, and separated into strakes and tyes. Formed into parcels, or doles, they are then all ready for sale. The Sale, or Ticketing-days, take place weekly at Truro, Redruth, and Poole. A dinner is provided (in true English fashion) at the expense of the mine-owners, who there meet the agents of the principal mining companies. The latter, having already provided themselves with samples of the different ores for sale, now hand in sealed tenders, or tickets, stating the prices they are willing to give for respective doles. These tickets are opened, read aloud, and the highest bidder becomes the pur¬ chaser. The ore is then shipped for Swansea, to undergo the process of smelting. The business of a mine (a huel, wheal, or hole) ie usually placed under the control of a purser. The mining operations are superintended by a captain, who, in large mines, is assisted by grass captains and underground captains —the former, as their name applies, attending to the works above ground. As many as 30,000 persons are employed, it is supposed, in the Devonshire and Cornwall mines. The total value of the ore annually excavated exceeds £850,000, and more than 200,000 8 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 ewts. are exported yearly. In 1800, the total value of the ore for the year was only £550,925—( M‘Culloch ). From the Caradon we may turn aside to view the Hurlers, remains of three large Druidical Sacred Circles, of which only one is now in tolerable preservation. The legend runs that they represent the figures of some Sabbath-breakers who, while engaged in hurling—a Cornish game at ball—were summarily smitten into stone. Returning to the railway, and continuing our advance, we soon reach the Cheesewring, on a granitic hill of considerable elevation, strewn with huge misshapen fragments of rock. Out of these rises the pile of vast stones which, from its shape, has been so fantastically named. It is about 32 feet high. Some of the slabs of which it is composed overhang the base many feet. There are, first, three or four stones resting one on another, then a smaller one, then one of enormous size, and three or four more masses complete the erection, which is not unlike a gigantic mushroom. If the tourist gazes at it long, he will inevitably receive the impression that, before he can turn round, it will topple over upon him, though for centuries it has stood unshaken “ by the fiercest hurricane that ever blew, rushing from the great void of an ocean over the naked surface of a moor.” Some authorities regard it as having been erected by the Druids, and worshipped as an idol, but a more probable theory represents it as a huge cromlech, laid bare by the gradual denudation of the surface-earth, and wrought into its present shape by the action of atmospheric influences upon the softer portions of the granite. From this elevated position, a fine prospect is commanded of Western Devon, of the Cornish hills and valleys, and the seas which spread away on either hand. The granite quarries in this vicinity are in full operation, and the tourist will find some amusement in watching the labours of the Cornish athletes. He may also ask them to point out the site of Gumb’s Rocks. Daniel Gumb was a stone-cutter of Lezant who shewed at an early age an intense love of books, and especially addicted himself to the study of astronomy and mathematics. But to be a stone-cutter and an astronomer is to combine two utterly antagonistic vocations, and Gumb, that he might lessen his expenses, and consequently be able to reduce his hours of labour, dug out a cavern or hollow at the base of a projecting mass of gramte, and thither removed his family and Route ]. ST. NEOT. 9 himself (a.d. 1735). Free from the calls of landlord or tax- gatherer he there pursued his astronomical and mathematical pursuits, until stopped by death. His “ study ” and bedroom have, unfortunately, been destroyed by the quarrymen; but a geometrical figure traced by his hand on the stone, and the rock where he sat and studied, are still to be looked upon. To the north of the Cheesewring rises the conical elevation of Sharpitor, or Sharp Point Tor, 1200 feet above the ocean level, its western side actually scored with the ruins of ancient Celtic settlements ; and away to the left towers Kilmarth, 1280 feet in height, crowned with such a diadem of rocks as some grand Titan of the Olden World might have been proud to wear. Beyond are Trewartha Tor, east, and Hawks’ Tor, west. The course of the Fowey may now be taken as a guide by the tourist as he turns his face to the south, or rather to the south¬ west, and strikes across field and lane for ST. NEOT (popula¬ tion, 1608). Here is a notable Parish Church (built of granite about 1480), which no wayfarer in Cornwall may venture to say he has not seen. Its carved roof (dated 1593), and its stately Decorated tower (earlier than the body of the church ?) would be sufficient to make the fortune of any edifice, but here is the stone reliquary, 18 inches by 14 inches which once enshrined the arm of St. Neot, and—better worth the attention of the pilgrims of a later age—a series of 15 windows exhibit¬ ing the wondrous deeds of various saints in mediaeval stained glass of the rarest description. These windows, we should add, were restored, in 1829, at the cost of the Rev. R. G. Grylls, the patron of the benefice. St. George’s Window represents that great champion of Christendom in his wars against the Gauls; in his victory over the dragon; obtaining his arms from the Holy Virgin; falling into the hands of his Gaulish foes; trampled under foot by the horse of the King’s son; torn to pieces with iron instruments; boiled in molten lead; and marvellously restored to life by the Virgin, after undergoing other punishments which we need not now enumerate. St. Neot’s Window is even of higher interest, inasmuch as St. Neot (to our shame be it spoken !) is far less popularly known than England’s patron-saint. St. Neot commenced his marvellous career by enclosing some troublesome crows, whom it was his 10 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANC2. Route 1 duty to scare from his master’s corn-field, in a “ pound ” of rude stones. Suddenly growing famous through so remarkable an exploit, he withdrew from the society of the “ profanum vulgus,” and built a monastery, wherein he led a holy and secluded life, and wrought the usual number of unnecessary miracles—miracles always followed by trifling results, and achieved for paltry reasons—how he threw back a broiled fish into a well which an angel daily supplied with a couple (of trout?), on condition that he ate but one, and how that the fish was straightway resusci¬ tated; how that a deer took refuge at his side when he was praying by the said well, and the hounds when they came near, humbled themselves before him ; how that he ploughed with wild harts who had offered themselves voluntarily to the yoke, when the oxen belonging to his monastery had been stolen; how that he—but are not his deeds set forth in glowing colours in the window appropriated to him in St. Neot’s Church? The Harris, the Callawaye, the Tulbe, and the Hutton, are memorial windows ; the Chancel, the Creation, the Noah, the Acts, the Redemption, explain their objects by their names ; the Armo¬ rial represents the nine orders into which the Angelic Hierarchy are arranged, and the Young Women’s Window, a gift from village lasses in 1529, is emblazoned with the figures of St. Patrick, St. Clara, St. Mancus, and St. Brechan. About five miles north-east, by way of Forsnooth, lies ST. CLEER (population, 3835), in a district of peculiar interest to the archaeologist. St. Cleer Down is 750 feet high, and overlooks a broad and diversified landscape, which may be contrasted by the tourist with his recollections of the richer but tamer scenery of Surrey, and the leafy wealds of Kent. St. Cleer, or St. Clare, was an Italian lady, bom in the twelfth century, a disciple of St Francis, for whom she abandoned all her fair inheritance, and a founder of a sisterhood of nuns, the “ Poor Clares,” whose dis¬ tinctive excellence appears to have been their uprightness, for they never lay down, whether waking or sleeping! The Church here is partly Norman, and the zigzag moulding of a Norman doorway, now walled up, is discernible in the north wall. The tower is 97 feet high, and adorned with four gray turrets. A short distance below the church, and at the side of the public path, may be seen the Well of St. Cleer, and the ruins (all garnished with ivy, so that decay has become picturesque) of Route 1 . ST. CLEER'S WELL. 11 the Baptistry or Chapel which formerly enclosed it* By the wayside stands an ancient Cross, 9 feet in height. It was thus that the fathers of the_ Primitive Church consecrated the old customs of the people to the purposes of religion. “Well dressing” was evidently a relic of the Fontinalia of the ancient Romans, when nosegays were cast into springs and fountains in honour of the nymphs of the streams. The custom could not be eradicated, but it might be sancti¬ fied, and so the Well was dedicated to a Christian saint, and a cross erected near it to stimulate the passer-by to prayer. “ Where a spring rises or a river flows,” says Seneca, “ there should we build altars and offer sacrifices.” And upon this hint the mis¬ sionaries of Rome very wisely acted. St. Cleer’s Well was formerly used as a Bowssening Pool, and held in great repute for its efficacy in restoring the mad to “ sana mens in sano corpore.” From this point the tourist should inquire his way up the hill to Treveythy Stone —about 1£ mile distant. Six upright blocks support a slanting stone, 16J feet by 10 feet, so as to form a Cromlech, or grave-house—“ The Place of Graves,”— whose interior is now made use of by the neighbouring peasants as a repository for their tools. The only other object of interest in this vicinity lies to the west of the church, and is known as the Half Stone—the shaft of an ancient memorial cross which has been broken off from its pedes¬ tal. Some years ago another stone was dug up close at hand, and naturally enough, though erroneously, the villagers thought it was the other half stone —the complement of the broken pillar which they so long had wondered at. But on examination it was found to exhibit distinct traces of Saxon ornamental work, and the in¬ scription—“ Boniert rogavit pro anima .” These stones, then, were probably memorials of Dungerth, King of the West Welsh, who was drowned in 872, and a cruciform chamber recently dis¬ covered in the course of some excavations in the vicinity may have been intended as a vault, or receptacle for his remains, or those of his kith and kin. We now return to Liskeard through a wild and hilly country, in order to pursue our researches in another direction. * The Chapel has recently been restored, the original design being followed with commendable care, and the old materials made use of. 12 BRANCH ROUTE-LISKEARD TO EAST LOOE. Route 1 . BRANCH ROUTE—LISKEARD to EAST LOOE, 11 Miles. (Or along the Canal, 9 Miles.) A pleasant road will take us to ST. KEYNE (population, 145), a quiet and agreeably situated village, with a small but ancient Church, and a famous Well (half a mile left of the church) which may be specially commended to the attention of the married tourist. Its waters possess a remarkable property ; the husband or wife who first drinks of them rules for the re¬ mainder of their married life ! “ Whether husband or wife come first to drink thereof,” says Fuller, “ they get the mastery thereby.” Southey’s admirable ballad, the “ Well of St. Keyne,” has obtained an English reputation The Well was given by St. Keyne to the villagers in return, says the legend, for the chapel which had been consecrated to her. It is arched over by some weather-worn stones, upon which, in a fantastic manner, grow three venerable ash trees, a wych-elm, and a hoary oak. Its wonder¬ working waters do not appear to have lost their ancient reputation. Two miles south of St. Keyne and the pedestrian reaches DULOE (population, 1109), where, in a field some 70 or 80 yards from the wayside, are placed the remains of a Druidical sacred circle, about 28 feet in diameter. Only five upright stones have escaped the “ iconoclastic rage ” of the neighbouring villagers. They appeared to have averaged 10 feet in height, and are com¬ posed of white quartz. Duloe Church —Duloe, the black lake ?—is dedicated to St. Cuby, or Kiby, whose Well is situated some distance to the east of it. Its memorials are chiefly sculptured slabs of dark-blue slate, but there is also a monument to John Anstis, the historian of the “ Order of the Garter” (born at St. Neot’s 1669—d. 1744), and an effigy and tomb for Sir John Coleshall, d. 1483. The screen is of rude workmanship. The church was recently restored. Dean Milles, an erudite divine (1713-1784), was born in Duloe; and Dr. Scott, who was Master of Balliol College, Oxon, 1854-1870, and is highly reputed as joint author of “ Liddell and Scott’s Greek-English Lexicon,” held the living for several years. Two miles farther south and we cross the head of a small creek or inlet which reposes, like a mountain tarn, calm and Route 1 . TRELAWNEY HOUSE. 13 shadowy, between steep abrupt bills clothed in a mass of verdure. Here, on the right, spread the beautiful grounds of Trelawney— Tre-lawn-ey, the Isle of Oak Groves ; on the left the demesne of Trenant Park (W. Peel, Esq.), formerly the residence of “Anas- tasius” Hope. On the wooded hill above moulder the ruins of a circular British camp, with a single fosse and vallum, anciently connected by a line of ramparts, called The Giant’s Hedge, with Lerrin, on the bank of the Powey. Trelawney House is an ancient mansion, remodelled in 1701 by Bishop Trelawney—one of “ the Seven Bishops” imprisoned by James H.—but retaining its old chapel uninjured, and the two machicolated towers erected by Lord Bonville in the reign of Henry VI. The south front was built by Edward Trelawney, Governor of Jamaica under Queen Anne. A portrait of the great bishop, Sir Jonathan Trelawney, by Kneller , adorns the drawing¬ room, and may remind us of the stirring times, when through every village in Cornwall echoed the defiant strain— “ And shall Trelawney die? And shall Trelawney die ? There’s thirty thousand underground shall know the reason why. And shall they scorn Tre, Pol, and Pen ? And shall Trelawney die ? There’s thirty thousand Cornish boys will know the reason why. Trelawney he’s in keep, and hold ; Trelawney he may die, But thirty thousand Cornish men will know the reason why.”* Of the Trelawneys, and two other notable Cornish families, the saying runs ,—“ That never a Granville wanted loyalty, a Godol- phin wit, or a Trelawney courage.” Memorials are preserved here of various members of this famous race—of Sir Matthew, one of Edward Ill’s knights ; of the Bishop ; and of his daughter Letitia, who married her cousin Harry, and commemorated the premature death of her first born on a marvellously wrought piece of tapestry. There is a portrait of Bishop Atterbury, who in his earlier years was chaplain to Bishop Trelawney, and a curious original portrait of Queen Eliza¬ beth, taken in her youth. St. Ninnie’s or The Piskies’ (Pixie’s) Well, on the right bank of the stream, has been recently restored. * The modern ballad, which was suggested by this famous old chorus, and has often been mistaken for the original lyric, was written by th« Rer. R. S. Hawker, of Morwenstow. 14 BRANCH ROUTE-LISKEARD TO EAST LOOK. Route 1 PELYNT (population, 769) and its ancient Church lie 2 miles west. Here may be seen the pastoral staff and mitre of Bishop Trelawney, and the helms and swords, effigies and monu¬ ments of the Trelawneys, Achyms, and Bullens. Standing in its dusty nave, one seems recalled to the old chivalric times by the age-worn memorials hanging around and above—glaive which has covered knightly hand, and helmet which has shielded knightly head. We now strike across to TALLAND (population, 830), a small sea-side village, sheltered by hills, and lining the shores of a little quiet cove. Its Church, as the name implies, stands upon high ground, and is distinguished by an ivied tower de¬ tached from the body of the building. Ancient trees encircle it. A mile and a half to the west lies POLPERRO ( Inn: The Ship), i. e., the pool with the pier, “ a little fischar towne with a peere,” says Leland,—reposing in a gap of the dark slate cliffs (400 feet in height), as if the tumultuous voices of the work-day world never penetrated into its still recess. Here Mr. Couch discovered the fossils (ichthyolites) known as the Polperro Sponges, and the geologist, in yon lofty sea-wall of schistose cliffs which seems to defy the rage of the Atlantic, and is “ black” with fossil remains of the Silurian era, will find abundant “ matter for meditation.” The hill above “ the fischar towne” is crowned with the gray ruins of a chapel dedicated to St. Peter. Pursuing the sea-side path, eastward, a walk of two miles brings us to WEST and EAST LOOE (population, 2194. Inns: Ship and Swan), 231 miles from London. A broad estuary is confined between abrupt and lofty hills, whose slopes are clothed with blooming gardens, and decorated with a few villas, while at their base, and along the river bank, winds a labyrinth of narrow lanes and antique houses, relieved by the battlemented tower of St. Keyne’s Church. The remarkable old bridge of fifteen arches, which formerly spanned the estuary, was replaced in 1855 by a broader but infinitely less picturesque erection ; and a new water-side road has taken the place of the steep break¬ neck lane that formerly clambered up the hill into East Looe. LOOE (the lough, a low wharf-side) was a maritime town of eome importance in the days when Edward IH. was king, and contributed a quota of 20 ships and 315 men to his Calais expe- Route 1 . WEST AND EAST LOOE. 15 dition. It was afterwards of much repute as a notorious “ close borough,” and now thrives—upon such memories of the past as belong to it, its exports of granite from the Cheesewring and copper from the Caradon, and its pilchard fishery. A primitive line of rail connects it with the mines, and a canal which com mences at Watersmouth, with Liskeard. The air is so benign that geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and hydrangeas bloom in the open gardens throughout the year ,—“ the tender tamarisk is the wild plant of every farmer’s hedge.” The Guildhall has been adapted from a church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, which belonged to a colony of Austin Friars. About a mile outside the harbour lies the triangular-shaped eminence of St. George’s Island, a mass of rock 170 feet high, inhabited by myriads of water-fowl, and a detachment of the coast-guard. It derived its name from a chapel dedicated to St. George. The curious legend connected with it is amusingly told by Mr. Wilkie Collins : “ Here,” he says, “ many years ago, a ship was wrecked. Not only were the sailors saved, but several free passengers of the rat species who had got on board, nobody knew how, where, or when, w T ere also preserved by their own strenuous exertions, and wisely took up permanent quarters for the future on the terra firma of Looe Island. In process of time, and in obedience to the laws of nature, these rats increased and nmltiplied exceedingly ; and, being confined all within certain limits by the sea, soon became a palpable and dangerous nuisance. Destruction w T a3 threatened to the agricultural produce of all the small patches of cultivated land on the island. It seemed doubtful whether any man who ventured there by himself might not share the fate of fiishop Hatto, and be devoured by rats. Under these pressing circumstances, the people of Looe determined to make one united and vehement effort to extirpate the whole colony of invaders. Ordinary means of destruction had been tried already, and with¬ out effect. It w r as said that rats left for dead on the ground had mysteriously revived faster than they could be picked up and skinned, or flung into the sea. Eats desperately wounded had got away into holes and become convalescent, and increased and multiplied again more productively than ever. The great pro¬ blem was, not how to kill the rats, but how to annihilate them so effectually as to place the reappearance even of one of them altogether out of the question • This w r as the problem, and it was solved in the following manner :— 16 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE Route 1 . “ All the available inhabitants of the town were called to join in a great hunt. The rats were caught by every conceivable artifice, and, once taken, were instantly and ferociously smothered in onions ; the corpses were then decently laid on clean China dishes, and straightway eaten, with vindictive relish, by the people of Looe. Never was any invention for destroying rats so complete and successful as this ! Every man, woman, and child, who could eat, could swear to the extirpation of all the rats they had eaten. The local returns of dead rats were not made by the bills of mortality but by the bills of fare ; it was getting rid of a nuisance by the unheard of process of stomaching a nuisance ! Day after day passed on, and rats disappeared by hundreds, never to return !—Cheeses remained entire,—ricks rose unin¬ jured. And this is the true story of how the people of Looe got rid of the rats.” At West Looe was born the gallant admiral, Sir Charles Wager (1666-1743), who lived to represent his native borough. One mile north of East Looe is situated its parish church, ST. MARTIN’S (population, 312). Its Norman doorway is its only interesting feature. Jonathan Toup, the editor of “ Longinus,” was its vicar for thirty-four years. West Looe is included in the parish of Tolland. Returning to Liskeard along the eastern bank of the canal, the tourist will pass through the small village of Sandplace, 3 miles, where he cannot fail to be delighted with the goodly scenery surrounding him. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—LISKEARD to BODMIN. The railway station is south of the town, and the line, for a mile or so, runs at some distance south of the main road. It then turns to the north-west, and follows the course of the high¬ way, and of the Fowey river, to the Bodmin Road Station, 4| miles south of Bodmin. On the right are placed in succession the village of Dubwalls ; St. Neot, among the distant hills ; and Glynn, Lord Vivian’s beautiful seat. On the left we pass, at 4 miles, ST. PENNOCK’S, and 2 miles south, BRADOCK (population, 327), and Bradock or Broadoak Down, the scene of Hopton’s victory over the Roundheads in 1643. We cross Tregear Bottom, on a viaduct, penetrate into the luxuriant Route 1 BODMIN. 17 woods of the Glynn Valley, and in due time arrive at the Bodmin Road Station, near the confluence of the river Cardinham with the Fowey, and a few miles north of the hills and dells of BO CON- NOCK (population, 338) and the wayside cross, erected there in 1848, by the Hon. George Fortescue. Leaving Glynn (Lord Vivian) on his right, and Castle Kenyoc, a camp-crested hill on his left, the wayfarer presses forward through a romantic country-side to BODMIN — i . e ., The Monk’s Town. [Population, 5061.—Inns.- The Royal, and the Town Anns. 235 m. from London; 30 m. from Plymouth; 7 m. from Lostwithiel; 22 m. from Truro ; 21 m. from Launcestown ; 11 m., by road, from Liskeard; and 12 m from St. Austle ; 31 m. from Bodmin Road Station. Bankers —Messrs. Robins and Co. Market-Day— Saturday. The description of Bodmin penned by quaint old Carew in Queen Elizabeth’s time, will apply to it now, with but little variation. “ It consistetli wholly (in a maner) of one streete, leading east and west, wel neere the space of an easterne mile, whose south side is hidden from the sunne by an high hill, so neerely coasting it in most places, as neither can light have en¬ trance to their staires, nor open ayr to their other roomes. The other side is also overlooked by a great hill, though somewhat farther distant.” These hills are either partly cultivated or richly wooded, and the views which may be obtained from their summits are of considerable extent and surpassing beauty. The antiquarian Hals asserts that Bodmin was the site of a temple of Apollo erected by King Cunedage about 830 years b.c. But we are content with the antiquity which Whitaker claims for it, and protest that it had its rise in a small hut in the valley here (near the spring, now covered over, which rises within the west door of the church), occupied by St. Guron, the Cornish anchorite. In 518 St. Guron resigned it to St. Petrock (son of a Cumbrian monarch), who established upon its site a small monastery of the Benedictine order. St. Petrock died in 540, and his tomb and shrine were extant in the chapel attached to the west end of Bod¬ min Church until a date long posterior to that of the Reformation. In the year 936 King Athelstane founded here a Benedictine priory, and communicated so great an impetus to the infant town C 18 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 that it has always accepted that monarch as “ the chief erector and giver of privileges unto it.” In 1120 the priory was handed over to Augustinian canons. At the date of the suppression, its yearly revenues were computed at ,£270 : 0 :11. Bodmin was first incorporated by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and Mortaigne, about 1185, but its municipality now exists by virtue of a charter granted by George III. in 1798, which places its control in the hands of a mayor, eleven alder¬ men, and twenty-four common-couneilmen. From the 23d of Edward I. it returned two members to Parliament, reduced in 1868 to one. The assizes are held in Bodmin, which is the county town. The Church is the only noticeable building in the town. It is dedicated to St. Mary and St. Petrock, and dates from 1468- 1472, except the tower and north chancel, which were probably built about 1125. It is the largest church in Cornwall, consist¬ ing of a nave, chancel, and north and south aisles, separated from each other by Early English arches ; length, 150 feet; breadth, 63 feet. The spire, which formerly sprung out of the tower, was destroyed by lightning, December 6, 1699. The most interest¬ ing memorial is the tomb, with effigy in pontifical robes, of Prior Vivian, titular Bishop of Megara, d. 1533. A tablet to Cicely, wife of Bernard Achym, d. 1639, is lettered with an inscription of unusual merit. “ Democritus would weep to see Soe faire a flow’re as this to be Call’d to paye her Nature’s duetye, Blasted in her primest beautye. In Infancye her Vertue’s worth Began to bud and blossome forth. And as to riper age she grewe Each day produced a vertue newe, That shee had beene her sexes pride Had shee, alas, not too soone dyede. Nature in her had done its parte, And that was perfited by Arte; Yea, Grace through Nature soe did shine You would have thought her half Divine. Her Charitye as yet appeares In poore men's faces writte in teares; And if for Pyetye you looke, Witnesse this Temple and her booke.— Reader, then guess the rest by this, Shee was a soule made fitt for Blisse.” The Norman Font is beautifully sculptured. The altar-piece and altar-window (subject—The Ascension) were the gift of Lord Route 1 . HINTS FOR RAMBLES 19 de Dunstanville. An octagonal piscina with eight apertures, has long been used as the convenient receptacle of donations for the poor. Adjoining the chancel stands the Chapel of St. Thomas, profusely decorated with ivy, and now used as a school-house. In 1496, Perkin Warbeck assembled his levies at Bodmin prior to his bold march upon Exeter. In 1549, during the great religious commotion of the west, it witnessed a cruel and barbarous spectacle. The mayor, one Boyer, was compelled by the rebels to provide them with supplies. After their defeat near Exe¬ ter, Lord Russell commissioned the king’s provost-marshal, Sir Anthony Kingston, to pass through Cornwall and inflict summary punishment upon all who had aided them. He arrived at Bodmin, and was sumptuously entertained by the mayor. During the banquet he requested his host to have a gallows made ready for the execution, as he said, of a refractory townsman. After dinner the mayor informed him that his order had been executed. “ Well,” said the provost, “ let us go thither and see the man hang.” Arriving at the place of execution Sir Anthony inquired if the gibbet was of sufficient strength. “Yes,” said the mayor, “-without doubt it is !” “Then up with you, Master Boyer,” rejoined the provost; “ it is meant for thee !” “ Surely,” cried the hapless mayor, “ you do but jest.” “ I’faith, no,” re¬ joined the provost; “ thou hast been a busy rebel, and there is no excuse for thee !” [Hints for Rambles. —1. On a hill, 1 m. north-west, stands Beret Tower, the sole remains of a chapel, built in 1501, and dedicated to the Holy Cross. Some scanty relics are also in tolerable preservation of an Early English Hospital foe Lepers, incorporated by Queen Elizabeth in 1582. 2. South of the town may be visited the gaunt steep of Beacon Hill ; the camp of Castle Ktnoc (King's Castle), with a double vallum, measuring 950 feet by 800 feet; Hensbury, or Hensbarrow, 1034 feet high; and Haloaver, or “the Goat’s Moor,’ where every July was held a saturnalia of the lower orders, and offensive individuals, after a mock trial, and a Bumnmry sentence, were ducked in muddy water as a punishment. 3. Nearly three miles south-west, on the road to Truro, is the village of LANIVET (population, 1196), i. e., under a wood, where two stone crosses adorn the churchyard, and St. Benet's Monastery preserves some memorials of its whilom dignity; a lofty range of buildings, with mullioned windows and a tower, over whose decay the ivy has flung its luxuriant concealment. 4. The valley of the Glyn is “ beautiful exceed¬ ingly,” and should be thoroughly explored. The ramble may be made to include Llanhydrock House (see post.), and Restonnel Mine, the first mine inspected by the Queen on her progress through Cornwall. 5. To Cardinham, and thence to Warlegqon (where a tin stream work may be visited), returning by way of Temple and Blisland, is an enjoyable ramble; and—6. A walk to the Jamaica Inn, exploring Dozalare Pool, passing the night at the hostelry, and the next morning ascending Brown Willy, is much to be commended.] 20 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO FOWEY. Routt 1 BRANCH ROUTE—BODMIN to FOWEY, 13 Miles. This excursion should be so arranged as to include— 3^ miles, Lanhydrock House. l| mile, Restormel Castle. 1 h mile, Lostwithlel. —3| miles from Bodmin Road Station. £§T 2 mile west, Lanlivery. 2£ miles west of Lanli- very, Luxulian. 11 mil e east, St. Nighton, and Boconnoc House. 3^ miles, St. Sampson. On the east hank 1 St. Winnioc. of the Fowey, J St. Veep. 1J mile west, Tyrardheath. 3| miles, FOWEY. In the order thus indicated we shall arrange our notes. Lanhydrock House (Lord Robartes) is said to have been purchased in 1620 of one Lyttleton Trenance, by Sir Richard Robartes, a wealthy merchant of Truro; of whom it is related that he was compelled by the Duke of Buckingham to accept the barony of Truro at a cost of £10,000. His son, John Lord Robartes, was a gallant Parliamentarian general, and garrisoned Lanhydrock against the king, but was driven out of it by Sir Richard Grenville, upon whom Charles I. then bestowed the house and manor. On the success of the Parliamentarian cause. Lord Robartes, however, regained his own ; and having heartily joined in the restoration of Charles II. in 1660, was loaded with dignities and finally created Earl of Radnor. He died in 1685, and lies interred in Lanhydrock church. Lanhydrock House, in its present state, occupies three sides of a quadrangle; the north and south wings respectively bearing date 1636 and 1642, while the many-pinnacled and much-deco¬ rated gateway dates from 1651. The initials J. L. R. signify John Lord Robartes. A stately avenue of sycamores, planted in. 1648, leads from the park-gate to this lodge or gateway—a distance of half a mile. The grounds are finely wooded, and diversified with many a bold sweep of rich green sward. The Gallery is 116 feet long, and its ceiling and cornices are rudely embellished with scriptural subjects. There are several family portraits, of no great interest as works of art. In the rear of the house, and against a background of massy Routt 1 . RESTORMEL CASTLE. 21 foliage, stands the parish church, a Perpendicular building, with an embattled tower, nave, and north and south aisles. A granite cross decorates the churchyard, and numerous memorials of the Earls of Radnor the interior of the church. LANHYDROCK (population, 194), is a smaR village, almost entirely dependent upon the fostermg patronage of “ the great house.” A brief ramble along a pleasant road brings us to Restormel Castle, whose ivied ruins on the summit of a well-wooded hill form a picturesque landmark from afar. It was probably built by one of the baronial family of Cardinham in the reign of Richard I.; passed soon afterwards into the hands of the stout Earls of Cornwall; and on the death of Earl Edmund in 1300, was annexed to the Duchy. As early as the days of Edward III. it is described as falling into a gradual decay, and time and barbarism through succeeding centuries have done their worst, with none to let or hinder. Carew, writing in the reign of Elizabeth, exclaims,—“ Certes, it may move compassion, that a place so healthfulle for air, so delightfull for prospect, so necessary for commodities, so fayre for building, and so strong for defence, should, iu time of secure peace, and under the protection of its naturall princes, be wronged with those spoylings, than which it could endure none greater at the hands of any forrayne and deadly enemy.” In like manner Norden bewails, that “the whole castle beginneth to mourne, and to wringe out hard stones for teares; that she that was embraced, visited, and delighted with great princes, is now desolate, forsaken, and forlorne.” The ruins, nevertheless, were occupied during the Civil War by a body of Parliamentarians, whom Sir Richard Grenville defeated, August 21, 1644. A circular wall, gray, massive, and shrouded in ivy and climb¬ ing plants, encloses an open area of about 110 feet diameter. Without is a deep dry moat or fosse. A warden’s tower juts out on one side, and a projecting building on the opposite side occu¬ pies the place of the chapel. The ruins of several apartments are attached to the wall within. Hoary with age, riven into fantastic shapes, and profusely garnished with ivies and lichens, these memorials of the feudal past are well worthy of a place in the artist’s sketch-book, while the soft fair landscape which the richly wooded hill commands, cannot fail to delight an apprecia¬ tive mind. At the bottom of the hill stands Restonnel House (C. R. 22 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO FOWEY. Route 1 Sawle, Esq.), and near tlie boundary of its park-like grounds an iron mine is worked,—the first which the Queen visited on her progress through Cornwall. What derivation will the tourist accept for odclly-named LOSTWITHIEL (population, 922. Inn: The Talbot. Market- day: Friday. 236 miles from London)? Will he credit the old tradition that the town, once a place of great opulence and dignity, was so reduced by a terrible earthquake that the wonder¬ ing peasants spoke of it as “ Lost with all 1” Or will he under¬ stand it as “ Lost i’ th’ hills,” in reference to its position in the valley of the Fowey ? Or thirdly, lastly, and most reasonably, will he see in it a slight corruption of the Cornish Lestwithiel, the lofty or splendid palace, alluding to the Stannary Court of the Earls of Cornwall, built by Earl Edmund in 1272 ? The said Stannary Court is now the Shire Hall, and retains its antique character. The Bridge accross the Fowey is a fine old structure of the fourteenth century, and St. Bartholomew’s Church is a fourteenth century building of more than average worth. Kemark the Early English tower, crowned by a Deco¬ rated spire, which rises out of a graceful octagonal lantern ; also the curious five-shafted, eight-sided font, sculptured with grotesque figures of a priest, a lion, a huntsman, and an ape; and the goodly workmanship of the east window. The Earl of Essex caused his Koundliead troopers to occupy the church as a stable in 1644. A strange old custom is observed here on Low Sunday (the Sunday after Easter) : the burgesses of Lostwithiel meet together in solemn conclave, elect one of their number king, and after duly attending divine service, feast at the mock-king’s expense. We are not acquainted with the circumstances in which this remarkable observance originated. [From Lostwithiel the intelligent tourist will do well to indulge himself in two digressions,—one eastward, the other westward. The eastward digression should include LANLIVERY (population, 1493), a large village among the hills, with a stately perpendicular Church ; and LUXULYAN (population, 1248), where the singu^ lar “ whispering valley ” of Tregarden gives back the tourist’s voice with a potent force; where the Par Railway, and a water-course made use of in working it, are carried upon the Trefkry Viaduct, at a height of 100 feet, across a tremendous gorge or ravine ; where the granite quarries are wrought which supplied the stone for the lighthouse and beacon on Plymouth breakwater, and the block of porphyry, weighing 70 tons, fashioned into the Duke of Wellington’s sarcophagus, at a cost of £1100. Three miles to the north rises the granitic mass of Helmen Tor, and still Route 1 , BOCONNOC HOUSE. 23 farther to the south-east tower the lofty hills of the Hensbarrow range. A district of singular interest to the observant mind—a district of deep valleys and huge black tors—a district of quarries and tin mines,—where Nature is somewhat rugged, it is true, but where for such ruggedness Science fully compensates by a display of her own rare wonders I Westward Ho ! and we cross the Fowey to plunge into a landscape of bowery hollows and smiling meads ere we arrive at St. NIGHTON’S or NECTAN’S in St. Winnow (population, 1168). The Church is a late Perpendicular building, with a curiously small belfry, and a Norman font removed from an older edifice. On the hill above the village was formerly stationed a watch and ward, and the bale-fire blazed when a coming foe was seen. On the Liskeard road, a mile or so beyond, stands Boconnoc House (Hon. G. Forteseue), a mansion which would find little favour in the eyes of architect or artist, but for the man of letters will always retain a surpassing interest. Here the gallant Prince Maurice placed his head-quarters, and here King Charles himself was stationed from the 9th of August to the 7th of September 1644. Prince Charles, afterwards “the merry monarch,” visited it in 1646. Here the great Earl of Chatham was bom November 15, 1708. The house had previously been purchased by Governor Pitt, his father—the fortunate possessor of the “ Pitt Diamond,” which had cost him £24,000, and realised £135,000. Here resided Lord Grenville, one of the ablest of the statesmen of George III.'6 earlier cabinets. Here, too, Lord Mohun lived,—the bravo who challenged and slew the Duke of Hamilton in 1712, and was himself slain in that sanguinary duel. A later tenant, the eccentric Lord Camelford, who built the gallery, was killed by Mr. Best under singularly similar circumstances in 1812. The rain of an ancient oak is pointed out (near one of the gates) as associated with a tradition of Charles the First. That pious sovereign, while receiving the sacrament beneath its far-spreading branches, was fired at by a traitor; but the ball struck against the tree, and glancing off, smote a poor fisherman who was then moving up the avenue. For many a year the oak bore blood-coloured leaves, as if testifying its sympathy with the outraged monarch and the accidental victim. An obelisk standing within an entrenchment raised by King Charles in 1644, commemorates Sir Robert Lyttleton. The grounds are of great extent, and delight¬ fully varied by wood and water, grove, hill, and dale. The lawns alone occupy upwards of 100 acres, and a carriage road winds through the park for upwards of six miles. In the house are preserved portraits of Governor Pitt (of Madras), by Kneller; Bishop Lyttleton, do.; General Earl Stanhope, do.; Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, by Lely; Right Hon. George Grenville, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Richard, Earl Temple (by some authorities reputed to have been the real Junius) do.; Sir Richard Mohun, by James; a bust of William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham, by Wilson. Two ebony chairs, fashioned, it is said, out of Queen Elizabeth’s cradle, are among the curiosities of Boconnoc, which, though inhabited by the Hon. G. M. Forteseue, is the property of Dowager Lady Grenville, of Dropmore, near Maiden¬ head.] The road to Fowey diverges, about three quarters of a mile from Lostwithiel, to the south, approaching somewhat closely the river hank ; while the St. Austle road (8 miles) branches off to the south-west. ST. SAMPSON (population, 295) is a small village 24 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO FOWET. Route 1. upon the Fowey, 4 miles from Lostwithiel. On the opposite hank (but a little higher up) stands ST. WINNOW (population, 1168, including St. Nighton), in a romantic position, and rejoicing in a good old Church, whose stained glass is worth examination. ST. VEEP (population, 574) almost directly faces St. Sampson. And so we gradually approach the busy sea-port town of FOWEY Foys Fenton, the Walled Spring). [Population, 1394. Inn: The Ship. 240 m. from London; 8 in. from Lostwithiel; 13 m. from Bodmin; 19 m. from Liskeard; and 10 m., by coast, from West Looe. Market-day, Saturday.] Fowey, in the old days, shared with Plymouth and Dartmouth the maritime superiority of the south of England, and Looe, Truro, and Penryn, were merely regarded as creeks belonging to its harbour. Its jurisdiction, however, was confined, by an act passed in 1677, to the twelve miles of coast extending from Noland head to the Deadman Point. The small inlets or coves, which radiate, as it were, from its commodious and secure harbour, are locally termed Pills. “As a western outlet, it has the advantage of every other port in Cornwall; and in a gale of wind at south, if merchant ships, or even frigates, get embayed between the Deadman and Rame Head, they may enter this harbour in perfect safety. The entrance (which Res 9 miles north-west, \ north, from the Deadman rocks) may be readily known at sea by the ruins of St. Saviour’s Church on the east side, and an old windmill (erected prior to the year 1296), near the town of Fowey, on the west side.” The base of the windmill is 243 feet above the sea-level at high-water, and that of the church 199 feet above the same level. At the immediate entrance the rocks are very bold, and there is deep water close to them. On the east side, at Pokuan Point, is a castle or block-house {temp. Edward TV.), and on the western side, above the ruins of an ancient castle at St. Katherine’s Point, is St. David’s Battery (4 guns), and further in shore are two small batteries and Fowey block-house (6 guns). From the termination of the rocks on the south side of Fowey town, to Caffa Mill Pill, opposite Bodinnoc, there is a regular embankment or sea-wall. The Harbour is a broad sheet of water sheltered by lofty Route 1 . FOWEY. 25 cliffs, which narrows as it runs inland between w r ell-wooded banks, hut continues navigable as far as Lostwitliiel (8 miles). It is formed by the river Fowey, which rises east of Brown Willy, and flowing through a fertile vale of infinite beauty, here effects its junction with the sea. You enter into it through two bold headlands, on each of which moulder the ruins of a square fort built in the reign of Edward IV. Fowey stretches along the right bank for about a mile, and on the left tower the varie¬ gated schistose cliffs of Polruan. The depth of water averages 3 fathoms. From a very early date Fowey was the principal sea-port in Cornwall, and it contributed to Edward III.’s Calais expedition the formidable quota of 47 ships and 770 mariners—a quota only exceeded by that of Yarmouth. It rapidly rose into importance,- “ partely by feates of warre, partely by pyracie ; and so waxing riche felle all to marchaundize, so that the towne was hauntid with shippes of diverse nations, and their shippes went to all nations.” Its stout seamen refused to own the superiority of Rye and Winchelsea, and having defeated them in a desperate sea-fight, quartered the arms of the Cinque Ports upon their scutcheon, and assumed the proud title of the “ Fowey Gallaunts.” They then turned their arms against their “ natural enemies” the French, and with fire and sword harassed the entire coast of Normandy. In the reign of Henry VI. the French returned the visit, landed in the dead of night, surprised the town, set it on fire, and slew many of the townsmen (a.d. 1457). A heavy blow was dealt to its prosperity by Edward the Fourth. After he had concluded peace with France the Fowey gallants continued to make prizes of whatever French ships they could get hold of. King Edward sent his pursuivants among them to insist upon their observance of his treaties. The Fowey gallants slit their ears. Then the irate Plantagenet caused them to be enticed, upon colourable pretences, to Lostwithiel, where the ringleaders were summarily hung. A heavy fine was levied upon the town, and its vessels handed over to the neighbouring port of Dartmouth— a.d. 1478. Fowey, during the Civil War, became the scene of an important event. The Earl of Essex stationed here his head¬ quarters in July 1644, but was so skilfully invested by King Charles, that he was compelled to make his escape by sea to Plymouth, while his army upwards of 5000 men, unconditionally surrendered. Fairfax seized the town in 1646, during the last 26 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO F0WE7. Route 1 throes of the Royalist struggle. In July 1666, a Dutch man-of- war chased into its harbour the Virginian traders, but was forced to withdraw before the fire of the Fowey gallants. In the follow¬ ing year they repulsed De Ruyter. Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort, while on a cruise, landed here in 1846. About 120 vessels, of 9500 tons, now belong to the port. In Fowey roads the depth of water varies from 5 to 10 fathoms. The chief points of interest in Fowey are its Church, and Place House. Minor features are, the Windmill, which, as it was in existence anterior to 1296, was probably erected by some Cornish crusader on his return from the Holy Land ; the ruins of St. David’s Fort, erected, temp. Henry VIII., on St. Catherine’s rocks, at the mouth of the Harbour ; the scanty remains of Hall House, fortified in the Civil War, and of St. Saviour’s Chapel (or Babtistry), at Polruan ; and the Town Hall, built at the cost of P. Rashleigh, Esq. and Lord Valletort. The Church, pleasantly girdled by rows of trees, was origi¬ nally dedicated to St. Finbar, but now to St. Nicholas. It was rebuilt in 1336, and largely restored in 1457. The north aisle is the most ancient portion. The tower is tall and stately; the roof, of oak, very richly decorated; the pulpit in the style of the fifteenth century. Three outlined figures on blue slate of three brothers Treffry, temp. Henry VIII., sons of John Treffry, sheriff of Cornwall in 1482, should be examined by the visitor; the brass to a civilian and his wife, dated 1440; and the monu¬ ment in the south aisle to John Treffry , of whom Polwhele relates that “ he was a whimsical kind of man. He had his grave dug, and lay down and swore in it, to shew the sexton a novelty.” The monument was erected in his lifetime. There is also a stately memorial to Sir John Treffry , who captured the French standard at the Battle of Poictiers. Place House, or the Place (Plaz or Plas, the palace), the seat of the Rev. E. J. Treffry, was carefully restored and enlarged by the late Mr. Joseph Treffry, a man of genius, of whom the tourist in Cornwall will hear well-deserved eulogiums, and of whose enterprise, liberality, and boldness of conception he will see the most magnificent memorials. His paternal name was Austen, but in 1838, when Sheriff of Cornwall, he assumed that of Treffry, by royal warrant, having become the representative of that ancient Cornish family. The breakwater at Par Har¬ bour; the granite viaduct called by his name; and the canal Route 1 . FOWEY. 27 and railway connecting the sea coast with the mining and quarry¬ ing districts in the interior, were constructed by him, and almost solely at his expense. There was nothing which he did not undertake, and nothing which did not prosper in his hands. Mines were his, and ships; railroads and canals were worked under his direction; he built houses; dealt in foreign commerce; farmed upwards of 1000 acres; was an active and intelligent magistrate; a wise and liberal friend to the poor. So he died, at the age of 67, on the 29th of January 1850, leaving a memory and a name of which his descendants may be justly proud. “ The Place ” occupies the site of a royal palace, the Kune Court, or King’s Court, reputed to have been the residence of the Earls of Cornwall. The older portions date from 1457". On the occasion of the French assault upon the town, in that memo¬ rable year, “ the wife of Thomas Treffry,” says Leland, “ with her servants, repelled their enemies out of the house, in her husband’s absence; whereupon he builded a right faire and strong embattled tower in his house, and embattled it to the walls of his house, in a manner made it a castle, and unto this day it is the glory of the towne building of Foey.” Many of the apartments in Place House are of high interest The Hall is lined with polished porphyry, from a quarry belong¬ ing to the proprietor. On the walls are emblazoned the arms of Edward VI. and the first Earl of Bedford, and the scutcheons of the Treffrys and Tresilhneys. The ceiling is of oak, elaborately wrought. Among the numerous curiosities, not the least notable is a fine original portrait of Hugh Peters, a native of Fowey (his mother was a Treffry), and famous to all time as the zealot chaplain of Lord Protector Cromwell. The Tower, restored by the late Mr. Treffry, is 108 feet high. Fowey was incorporated by James II., and again by William III. Li 1819, it received a new charter. From the thirteenth of Queen Elizabeth up to 1832, it was represented in Parliament. 1 j mile south-west of Fowey, upon the promontory of Greben Head, and enjoying a sea-view of wonderful extent and surpassing magnificence, stands Menabilly (W. Rashleigh, Esq.), where the tourist will find a grotto, a remarkable collection of Cornish Minerals, and a Longstone, or Celtic sepulchral memorial, designed to indicate the grave of Cirusias, son of Cunimorus. In the mineral collection are fine specimens of sulphuret of tin, mala¬ chite, fluors, sulphuret of copper, blocks of tin dating from the 28 • BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO BOSSINEY. Route 1 pre-historic era of tlie Cornish mines, cubes of ruby copper, lustrous topazes, and s himm ering crystals. The Grotto, on the sea-shore, is an octagonal erection of marbles and serpentines, relieved with shells, crystals, and pebbles, and containing a fine cabinet of fossils, jaspers, agates, shells, coralloids, and minerals. In the centre stands a table fashioned out of 32 specimens of polished Cornish granite. Here, too, are two rusty iron links of the chain which formerly protected the entrance of Fowey Har¬ bour. They were hauled up by two fishermen in 1776. Par Harbour, St. Blazey, and St. Austle, are within a moderate day’s walk of Fowey. To the eastward, a ramble along the shore may be recommended, as far as East Looe, and by way of Polruan, Lansallos, and Talland. BRANCH ROUTE. BODMIN to BOSCASTLE, 20 Miles. A pleasant drive may be taken from Bodmin to Boscastle by private conveyance ; fare, 30s., driver, 5s.,; time, 2-£ hours. There is also a coach vid Camelford. The road to HILLAND may be varied by a digression to Dun- meer Castle, on the bank of the river Allan, and Dunmeer Wood, an oval camp with a single vallum, and thence, across a romantic country—we say “ romantic,” because no other epithet can so well describe its character—to the beautiful demesne of Pencarrow (Lady Molesworth), the residence of the late Sir William Molesworth, the editor of “ Hobbes,” and a statesman of no mean order. On the hill beyond is an oval Celtic camp, with a single vallum and fosse, occuping an area of 450 feet by 375 feet. The nature of the scenery in this neighbourhood may be inferred from the name Pen-carrow, the “ Head of the Brooks.” Returning into the main road, across the Camel, at Hilland, w r e keep along a bold and lofty range of hills to BLISSLAND (population, 611), i.e., the Happy Church, and thence we strike through a wild and heathy landscape to ST. BREWARD (popu¬ lation, 815), situated near the mouth of the Cornish “ valley of rocks,” Hanter Gantick, a savage and almost terrible ravine, whose sides are piled with huge masses of granite, and its depths fretted by the foaming waters of the Lank. Route 1 . CAMELFORD. 29 Keeping to the north-west, we cross the Camel to MICHAEL- STOW, where an ancient and interesting Church, dedicated to the great Archangel, and a square camp, apparently Roman, on Michaelstow Beacon, will attract attention. The village of ADVENT (population, 246) is small, and its church is dedicated to St. Anne, or St. Teen, whence the word “ Advent” would seem to have been perverted. A granite cross, 9 feet high, stands near the church. CAMELFORD (population of parish, 1718. Inns: King’s Arms, and Darlington Arms. MarJcet-day, Friday), 16 miles from Launceston, 11 miles from Padstow, 15 miles from Bodmin, 5 miles from Boscastle, 32 J miles from Truro, 11 miles from Wade- bridge, and 229 miles from London, is situated on the Camel, or Cam-alan, “ the winding river,” in the parish of Lanteglos. The town is small and irregularly built ; the houses are mean, and the streets narrow. It was incorporated by one of the Earls of Cornwall, and represented in Parliament until disfranchised by the Reform Bill. Among its representatives may be named James Macpherson, the author (or compiler) of “Ossian.” It gave the title of Baron to a branch of the Pitt family, which expired with the duellist Lord Camelford, in 1804. At Tretown, in this neighbourhood, was fought (it tradition may be credited) a terrible battle between King Arthur and his traitorous nephew Mordred, in which both chieftains fell, and the famous Knights of the Round Table died by their lord’s side :— “ When all day long the noise of battle roll’d Among the mountains by the winter-sea ; Until King Arthur’s table, man by man, Had fall’n in Lyonness about their lord.”— Tennyson. Here, too, took place, in 823, a great engagement between the Britons and the Saxons under King Egbert. Lanteglos, the Parish Church, 1 mile south-west, was built by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket. It contains a splendid font, a carved roof, and, among numerous interesting memorials, an altar-tomb, with effigy, to Sir Thomas de Mohun, d. 1400. At Fentonwoon, in this parish, was bom Captain Wallis, the discoverer of Otaheite. Slaughter Bridge, now Sloven’s Bridge, on the road to Tintagel, commemorates by its name the legendary battle in which King Arthur fell. 30 ' BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO BOSSINEY. Route 1. BOSCASTLE (population, including Forralnuy, 360. Hotel: The Wellington), distant 4-| miles, is built upon the slope of a hill which separates into two a broad valley — the two valleys, each watered by a rapid stream, opening together upon the sea. The houses are girt about with orchards and gardens, and enjoy a romantic prospect. A small pier and breakwater protect the little harbour, “ a marvellous instance of what may be accomplished by the right sort of enterprise. Notwithstand¬ ing its barriers (the pier and breakwater), hawsers as thick as your leg are needed to regulate the advance of a vessel ; you see them lying in readiness across the quay, looped over the short strong posts ; a good supply, lest one should break. The ropes and lines used under ordinary circumstances are useless here. Look at the boats afloat in the harbour ; each one is moored with a stout hawser, such as on the Thames would serve for the tow¬ ing of an East Indiaman ”—(Walter White). The names of its various portions are Norman-French, and the town itself is said to derive its name from the Norman-French family of De Bot¬ treaux, who built here a stout castle. From the De Bottreaux it passed by marriage to the Lords Hungerford, and from them to the Earls of Huntingdon, whose representative, the Marquis of Hastings, is still Baron Bottreaux, though owning no estates in this vicinity. The manor now belongs to the Avery family. Of the castle only a grassy mound remains. The town, according to Carew, was once of some importance, “ for,” says he, “ the diversified roomes of a prison, in a castle, for both sexes, better preserved by the inhabitants’ memorie than discemable by their own endurance, show it heretofore to have exercised large jurisdiction.” But a tradition of former greatness is very com¬ monly cherished in an English town. The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Simforian, is situated at FORRABURY (population, including Boscastle, 360)— i. e., the far-off cemetery—and exhibits the characteristics both of the Saxon and later styles. A cross of granite stands in the churchyard. A quaint legend is associated with this lonely pile : —The inhabitants, when it was erected, besought the Lord of Bottreaux to present them with a peal of bells which should equal those at TintageL He complied : they were cast in London, and sent round by sea. The vessel laden with the precious freight had arrived off Willapark Point, when her pilot, a mariner of Route 1 . KORRABURY. 31 Tintagel, caught the sound of his own village chimes. The captain was not so devout a man as his pilot, and protested that only the stout ship and the strong masts were to he thanked, and praise given to God ashore. “ We should thank God,” replied the pilot, “ on board ship as well as on land.” “ Thank your own skill,” said the captain, “ and the prosperous breeze.” And he broke out into a volley of rough sea-oaths. Now as the good ship neared the cliffs, and beacons were lighted to announce her speedy approach, a terrible storm came on. The winds blew, and the seas raged, and onward against the perilous rocks they dashed the straining vessel. Vain the skill of the pilot ; vain the stout¬ ness of the masts ; onward she leapt, and rushing into the breakers soon became a total wreck. Of all her gallant crew only the pilot escaped, who, clinging to a plank, was washed on shore by a friendly wave. And to this day, when a storm is coming up from the fierce Atlantic, the solemn music of the bells which sank with the unfortunate ship rolls along the deep, recalling to the memory of the loitering peasant the marvellous story we have sought to tell. The Church consists of a nave and chancel, north and south transepts, western tower, and southern porch. The general cha¬ racter of the building is Early Perpendicular, but the walling of the chancel is of thirteenth century date. The arches, by which the nave communicates with the chancel, are the oldest portions of the edifice, and one, at least, is ante-Norman. In the north¬ west angle of the chancel remains a hagioscope. The font is old and good, and there are some benches of oak finely carved. Remark the chancel-screen (Late Perpendicular), and the arabesque carvings of the pulpit. About one mile from Forrabury lies the other church of Boscastle Minster. Just below the remains of the old chapel of St. Janies, and the ruins of the Tudor manor-house, the tourist enters a narrow lane, and, crossing a Cornish stile— i. e., a hori¬ zontal layer of slabs of granite, not unlike the bars of a gridiron —enters a deep well-wooded valley, where the old church tran¬ quilly reposes. The chancel and part of the north wall retain their ancient Early English character, but the remainder dates from the sixteenth century, and is very good and characteristic. “ The carved oak roofs are especially fine, and here, as elsewhere in this neighbourhood, are retained many of the ancient benches, all of black oak, and covered with rich and beautiful carving.” 32 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO BOSSINEY. Route 1. The east windows have been recently restored, and a fragment of stained glass, presenting the Trelawney escutcheon, has been pre¬ served. On a monument in the south aisle may he read the following epitaph :— “ Forty-nine years they lived man and wife, And, what’s more rare, thus many without strife: She first departing, he a few weeks tried To live without her, could not, and so died.” From Boscastle to Tintagel, 4 miles, the road is hilly.* To the left runs a bold bleak range, which is said to have been the ancient harrier between the territories of the Saxons and the Celts. At Longbridge a stream is crossed which, at about a mile inland, leaps over a steep of about 40 feet, in a fall popularly known as St. Nighton’s Keeve (from Jceeve, a basin). “ The Keeve,” says Mr. White, “ is the basin or bowl into which the cascade plunges, worn apparently into its present form by the long-continued action of the water. The howl used by the miner in washing his nuggets of tin is called a keeve. There is another leap of about 10 feet, and you may descend to it by returning to the outside of the rocks, scrambling down to their base, and along the narrow slippery path leading into the chasm. Here you see an arch below the edge of the Keeve, in which, a flat slab having lodged, the stream is broken as it shoots through, and falls a thin flickering curtain into the pool beneath. The best view is from the farther margin of the stream, and to cross on the gravelly shallow below the pool will scarce wet more than your shoe- soles. The effect is singularly pleasing. You are at the very bottom of the dell, in complete seclusion, with trees above trees on each side, forming a screen that admits hut a dim light, a glimpse of the upper fall through the arch, and the pretty noise of the falling water—no other sound audible, save the occasional twittering of a bird. There is a strange charm in the ceaseless plash and gurgling murmur—part of Nature’s music, produced by the simplest means.Retracing your steps, you see where the stream flows past the massive slab of slate-rock lying in its bed, and disappears in the brake. Then up the damp weedy path to the top of the hank, where stand the walls of a cottage, once the habitation of two recluse ladies who lived in it 6ome years—a mystery to the neighbourhood—and died without * The excursion occupies about 3 hours. Route 1. TINTAOEL. S3 revealing tlieir secret.” We then ascend to BOSSINEY, formerly a borough town which returned its representatives to Parliament but now an insignificant collection of squalid huts, and pass through TREVENA (Inns: The Stuart Wortley Arms, and King Arthur’s Arms) on our way to the song-famous headland of TIN- TAGEL (population of parish, 1001). The weather-beaten Church, dedicated to St. Simforian, stands all alone and unshel¬ tered on the summit of a tremendous cliff overlooking the wild Atlantic. So violent here is the fury of the ocean-winds, that it is necessary to support the very tombstones by substantial but¬ tresses of masonry. The church is cruciform in plan, and com¬ prises a nave and chancel, transepts, porches, western tower, and a lady chapel between the north transept and the chancel. The main walls of the nave and chancel are undoubtedly Saxon. The north transept is chiefly Early English ; the south transept Early Decorated. In the interior of the nave are some question¬ able Early English and Perpendicular insertions. The tower is the latest portion of the building, and appears to have beeu built in imitation of the original structure. “ The ‘ Ladye Chapel,’ now used as a vestry, opens into the chancel on the north side by a characteristic wooden door, of the square-headed trefoil type, of oak, and of the thirteenth century. The chapel itself is not so evidently Saxon as the portions of the nave and chancel mentioned above, but we have little or no doubt but that it may be safely referred to that period. The windows are extremely small, round-headed, and deeply splayed. The original stone-altar remains, slab and all, in a perfect state, except that only four out of the five crosses on the slab remain. On either side are curious corbels, or rather brackets, on which images formerly stood ”—(Building News, Aug. 1860). The interior has recently been restored, and the windows have been filled with stained glass, the workmanship and contri¬ bution of the Rev. R. B. Kinsman, the present vicar. The prin¬ cipal points remaining to be noticed are,—the Saxon door and windows of the nave ; the Norman great south doorway of the nave ; the Transition-Norman chancel-arch; the Early English east window, the sill of which was originally an altar ; the Easter sepulchre or founder’s tomb, Decorated, in the chancel ; and the Perpendicular rood-screen, and seats, of oak. The rectangular fish-ponds, and the Gothic archway of the vicarage, are worth examination. D 34 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO BOSSINEY. Route 1. [13 m. from Launceston; 6 m. from Camelford: 20 m. from Bodmin.] Hotel ; Wliarnecliffe Arms: The ruins, yet extant, are placed on the very brink of a tre¬ mendous precipice (300 feet above the sea), which forms the extremity of a bold headland or promontory, called by the peasants “ the Island,” because the rush of waters has nearly separated it from the main land. The castle originally occupied the promontory and the opposite hill—the two portions being connected by a noble bridge, whose massive foundations are yet visible. “ Arches and flights of steps cut in the native rock remain ; and walls, based on the crags, as they protrude them¬ selves from the ground, some at one elevation and some at another, and enclosing wide areas, which once were royal rooms, but are now carpeted with the softest turf; where the goat or the mountain sheep grazes, or seeks shelter from the noon sun and the ocean wind, and where the children from the neighbour¬ ing mill come up and pursue their solitary sports, build mimic castles with the fallen stones of the dwelling of ancient kings, and enclose paddocks and gardens with rows of them. Other battlemented walls, which constituted the outworks and fortifica¬ tions, run winding here and there up the steeps, and along the strips of green turf, apparently natural terraces, on the heights of the promontory.’’ TINTAGEL CASTLE. Route 1. TINT AG EL CASTLE. 35 And so, stone by stone, will pass away the once glorious palace of Tintagel, but not the memory of the brave knights and peerless ladies who, in the old time, made its walls ring with song and laughter. No ; poetry will renew them with a strange and mystic life. And these legends of the British heroes, these tales of Sir Lancelot and Sir Tristram, have exercised no incon¬ siderable influence on English literature — “ They gleam through Spenser’s elfin dream, And mix in Milton’s heavenly theme.” Milton himself has told us how — “ I betook me among those lofty fables and romances which recount in solemn cantos the deeds of knighthood ; so that even those books proved to me so many enticements to the love and steadfast observation of virtue.” And Gower, and laurelled Chaucer, and kingly Shak- speare, drew inspiration from them ; and, in a later day, Bulwer Lytton has extracted their gold, and moulded it into “ King Arthur and Tennyson has sung, in immortal verse, of “ many- towered Camelot.” The popularity of these old romances is creditable to our English nature, for there is nothing in them to gratify a prurient taste, nothing corrupt or enervating ; they are all enthusiastic in praise of virtue and valour, chastity and generosity,—in commen¬ dation of a pure and stainless life. The great hero of these fables, King Arthur himself, is he not a perfect model of what kaiser and knight should be ? “ Noble, stalwart, and magnani¬ mous —brilliant in war, just and liberal in peace,—the friend of poets, the defender of the weak,—a patriot, a warrior, and a statesman ! And around him are grouped knights worthy of such a chief! Modest and generous GawainLauneelot, the noble champion of the lake, somewhat stained, it is true, by his fatal love for Queen Guenever, yet ever foremost when a gallant deed is to be done; and Sir Tristram, the gentle, whom all love, and none dare envy ! So King Arthur held royal state in the castle of Tintagel, and because his knights were so equal in fame and valour that no one deserved to be placed above the others, there did he esta¬ blish his “ Round Table,” and set at rest all questions of prece¬ dency for ever. And from Tintagel would they sally forth on deeds of perilous enterprise : to slay a dragon, to protect an oppressed maiden, to defeat the wiles of some malignant enchan- 36 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO ROSSINEY. Route 1 ter. The tourist will form a good idea of the character of these exploits from the pages of the Morte d'Arthur, which is devoted to their relation. Tintagel is still known to the Comiskmen as King Arthur’s Castle, and many a rustic tradition is associated with its tempest- beaten ruins. Howitt, in his “ Visits to Remarkable Places,” tells an interesting story, which shews that the British hero’s name still lingers on the spot where his regal state was kept. “ I was standing thus occupied,” says Howitt (gazing on the won¬ derful cliffs and heights of the western coast), “ when a troop of lads came merrily up the hill. When they saw me there was a moment’s silence. ‘ Well, my lads,’ said I, ‘ don’t let me hinder your sport. I know what you are after ; you mean to visit the nests of the terns and choughs, if you don’t break your neck first.’ They looked at each other and laughed. ‘ What hill do you call this V ‘ Hill, sir ? 0 ! it’s Tintagel, sir.’ ‘ Tintagel! Well, and what old castle is this, then V ‘ Castle, sir ? it’s King Arthur’s castle !’ ‘ King Arthur’s castle ! and who was King Arthur V The lads seemed sharp lads enough, they had spark¬ ling eyes—faces full of intelligence ; they were lads of activity and spirit, and yet they looked at one another with a funny kind of wonder. It was a question they had evidently never had put to them. The fame of King Arthur was a thing supposed to be so commonplace that nobody ever thought of asking about it;— and therefore the boys were unprovided with an answer. ‘ King Arthur!’ at length said one of them, ‘why, we don’t know nothing about him, only as he was a king.’ ‘ A king ! aye, but when could that be 1 it can’t have been of late,—they have all been Georges and Williams lately.’ ‘ Oh ! Lord bless you, sir ! this castle was built before we were born !’ and with that most luminous solution of the difficulty, they scampered off, over crag, ruin, and green slope, down to the ravine, and up the opposite winding track to the top of the island, and soon were out of sight, in eager pursuit of their object.” The fight in which King Arthur* fell is supposed to have • Arthur is said to have been the son of King Gorlous, whom, at the age of fifteen, he succeeded as king of Damnonium. He was born in 452. He had three wives, of whom Guenever was the second. Hib third betrayed him during his absence in Armorica, and married his nephew Mordred, who thereupon assumed the crown, and concluded a league with Arthur’s great foe Cedric the Saxon. At the age of ninety, Route ] TINTAGEL CASTLE. 37 taken place about the year 543. After the disastrous issue of the battle, he was conveyed to an isle formed by rivers near Glas¬ tonbury, then called Afallach or Avallon, on the south of the estuary which receives the rolling waters of the Severn. He died there of his wounds. The place of Iris interment, however, and the exact particulars of his death, are not known. Fuller’s notice of this British worthy is so quaintly written that we venture to place it before our readers :—“ King Arthur/' lie says, “ son of Uther Pendragon, was born in Tintagel castle, and proved afterwards monarch of Great Britain. He may fitly be termed the British Hercules in three respects—1. In his ille¬ gitimate birth. 2. Painful life :—one famous for his twelve labours, the other for his twelve victories against the Saxons, and both of them had been greater had they been made less, and the reports of them reduced within compass of probability. 3. Vio¬ lent and woeful death :—our Arthur’s being as lamentable and more honourable,—not caused by feminine jealousy but mascu¬ line treachery,—being murdered by Mordred near the place where he was bom— ‘ As though no other place on Britain’s spacious earth Were worthy of his end, hut where he had his birth,’ After the conquest Tintagel was frequently the residence of royalty. It was here that David, Prince of Wales, was splendidly feasted during his war with Henry III. in 1245.” But it had fallen into decay in Leland’s time, only three cen¬ turies later. “ It hath bene,” he writes, “ a marvelus strong and notable forteres, and almost situ loci inexpugnabile [impreg¬ nable from the nature of its position], especially for the donjon [or keep] that is on the great high terrible cragge. But the residue of the buildinges of the castel be sore wether-beten an yn ruine.”* after seven years of civil war, the famous king was mortally wounded in the battle at Camelford, a.d. 543. * The ruins of the ancient chapel of St. Juliot—on the “ Island,” as it is popularly called—have recently been investigated by the vicar of Tintagel, the Rev. R. B. Kinsman. “ The chapel has been cleared, and the stone altar stands revealed in a perfect state, except that the slab (a ponderous block of granite) had been removed and was lying on the floor. This has been replaced. On either side of the altar is a grave lined with slate; but no bones were found in them. That on the south side has a 38 BRANCH ROCTE-BODMIN TO BOSSJNEY. Route ]. Tourists now visit tins memorable spot for its poetical asso¬ ciations, and because they think, with the old poet, that— “ From this blest place immortal Arthur sprung, Whose wond’rous deeds shall be for ever sung; Sweet musick to the ear, sweet honey to the. tongue.” [The whole line of sea-eoast from Cambeak, a headland south of ST. GENNY9 (population, 534), to Pen-tire Point, north of the estuary of the Camel, is replete with interest for the geologist as well as for the lover of the picturesque. It may be for the convenience of the tourist that we should here indicate the more curious and instructive features. Cracklington Cove is a sheltered recess of much quiet beauty, on the eastern side of the bold headland of Cambeak (333 feet), and protected northward by the yet loftier steep of Penkinna Head (380 feet). The picturesque formations of its fantastic cliffs and the different colours of its pebbly beach will suggest a thousand pleasant fancies. We soon pass a slate quarry on our way, and come in sight of High Cliff, 735 feet high, the termination seawards of Resparvel Down, a sombre- looking ridge which attains to an elevation of 850 feet, and rises against the sky in gloomy grandeur. In succession we arrive at the Castle Quay, which is shut in by a dark carbonaceous wall; Boscastle, on the bank of a small stream, and at the head of a curiously small harbour, which is but little defended from the on-sweep of the waters of the Channel; and the lofty headland, easily distinguished by its prospect tower of Willapark Point. Rounding the Point we come in sight of a deep recess in the carboniferous cliffs, appropriately named Black Pit. Soon afterwards the rocks assume the charac¬ teristics of the grauwacke formation, and the ruin-crowned steep of Tintagel looms in all the grandeur of its legendary memories against the eastern sky. Perhaps the finest view of this romantic promontory and its mouldering ruins is to be obtained from the sea. At its base is a small landing-place, anciently called Porth Hern, or the Heron Gate. The promontory, or “ island,” as it is locally called, is attached to the mainland by an isthmus of rock, pierced with a natural tunnel which may be explored at ebb of tide. Immediately inland lies Trevena, and just to the southward stretches the sandy shore of Trebarwith Sands, where Creswick made some of his noblest sketches of sea and rock, of lashing waters and inaccessible cliffs. A range of lofty hills runs parallel with the coast for miles. Port Isaac Bay is of some extent, and singular recess attached to it, constructed of granite, and intended appa¬ rently to allow of access by the hand to the interior of the vault, which may have been used as a receptacle for relics. The position of the chancel screen is indicated by two recesses in the walls, north and south, from which it has been removed ,”—Building News, September 1860). The chapel is, apparently, Transition Norman in character, and dates, perhaps, from about 1150. Mr. Kinsman has also effected con¬ siderable repairs of Tintagel castle, and converted the old sheep-walk, which straggled up the side of “ the Island,” into a more practicable path. The ruins on the Island date from the latter part of the thirteenth •'entury. Route 1. THE DELABOLE QUARRIES. 39 takes its name from a small fishing village situated near its west extremity. We next reach Porthqueen, a cove or harbour sheltered by Kellan Head, 209 feet high, and a locality where good specimens of trap-dykes abound. At Pentire Point our survey of the coast (about 18 miles as the crow flies) terminates.] In returning from Tintagel the tourist may visit the Delabole Quarries, spoken of by Carew in the reign of Elizabeth, and yielding the best slate in England. He may examine either one of the three, or all the three pits, which are here in course of excavation, and a little attention will soon render intelligible the various operations the slate has to undergo. The platform which projects over each pit, and which suspends the guide-chains employed in raising the slate-blocks, is called the Papote Head. The slate is shipped at Eoscastle and Port Gavorne. About 1100 men are here employed, and they raise on an average 130 tons a day. Good slate should be of a light-blue colour, clear and sonorous, and rough, firm, and close to the touch. The rock- crystals, known as “ Cornish diamonds,” are here both numerous and beautiful. “ I have known some of them,” says Carew, “ set on so good a foile, as at first they might oppose a not unskilful lapidarie.” In the neighbourhood are the slate-roofed and slate-sided cottages of Pengelley ( Inn; the Old Delabole) and Medrose. From Pengelley to ST. TEATH (population, 2245) is not quite 2 miles, south-east. There is here an interesting Church which the tourist should not omit to visit. The tower dates from 1630 ; the nave, chancel, and aisles seem to have been erected in the reign of Henry VII., whose arms are emblazoned on the east window. The pulpit is enriched with the arms of the Carminowes, who assert their descent from King Arthur, and bear the motto “ Cala rag Wetlilow”— i.e., a Straw for a Tale¬ bearer ! We now join the Truro road, and turning to the north¬ east reach Camelford after a 3 miles’ walk, and so return to Bodmin ; or keeping southward to Wade Bridge, 8 miles, return to Bodmin along the bank of the Camel. [From Boscastle to Buch by road 18 miles, carriage fare, 27s., driver 5s. ; time, 2|- hours.] BRANCH ROUTE—BODMIN to PADSTOW, 14 Miles. Our road for the first six miles is distinguished by little that is interesting. The fine landscapes opened up at Dunmeer Bridge, 40 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO FADSTOW. Route 1. the ancient camp known as Dunmeer Castle, and (to the right) Pencarrow, the seat of the Molesworths, has already been described. 5t miles, EGLOSHAYLE (population, 1521)— i.e., “the church by the stream” (compare Aylesford, or Eglesford, in Kent)—stands so close to the river-bank, that the walls of the cemetery are washed by alternate tides. The tower is Perpendi¬ cular ; the two aisles large and plain. An ancient pulpit of stone is its only curiosity. At WADEBRIDGE (Lins: Molesworth Arms, the Com¬ mercial), half a mile, the tourist can no longer gaze upon its old attraction—the antique bridge of 17 arches—the longest and most venerable in Cornwall—which Lovebone, vicar of Egloshayle, moved by pity for the lives annually lost in the passage of the river, erected in 1485, and for whose constant repair he bequeathed a yearly sum of £20. The cost of its erection was defrayed by a public subscription. Its total length was 320 feet. It has recently been widened, but carefully, so as not to destroy its ancient character. A railway runs from Bodmin to Wadebridge, whence a branch diverges to Wenford Bridge. Passengers are not carried beyond Wadebridge. The river, at this point, on the flux and reflux of very high tides, or after heavy rains, swells to a considerable extent, and the rapid motion of its waters lends a remarkable grandeur to the scene. Under favourable circumstances, a sail from Wade¬ bridge to Padstow, and from thence to Trevose Head, cannot fail to be enjoyed by the traveller, and he will find it infinitely preferable to a solitary ramble along a desolate and hilly road. But if he be compelled to adopt the latter route, he should direct his steps through St. Breock, St. Issey, and Little Pethe- rick. At ST. BREOCK’S (population, 1924), half a mile south, the Church is adorned with a massive embattled tower, and the churchyard enlivened by a small but spar klin g rivulet, over which a rude arch is thrown, embowered in foliage. The memorials in the church are ancient, and of some slight interest The village enjoys a most picturesque position. Route I. TAD3T0W. 41 ST. ISSEY (population, 724), in a wild hilly country, offers nothing to detain the wayfarer but the prospect obtainable from the elevated point of St. Issey Beacon. To the south rises the gloomy ridge of St. Breock’s Down, at an elevation of 730 feet jr more above the level of the sea. LITTLE PETHERICK (population, 216) boasts of a quaint Early English Church, restored with taste a few years ago. It is situated near the head of Dinas Cove, a pretty inlet of the Camel, which receives a small stream from the high land to the south. The locality is one which will repay the geologist for examining it. Three miles farther, across a hare bleak landscape, and we arrive at PADSTOW (population, 2402. Inns : Commercial, and Golden Lion. Market-day: Saturday), 244 miles from London, “ an ancient and fish-like ” town, which could contribute, it is said, two ships to Edward the Third’s great Calais expedition, hut appears to have outlived its prosperity. The sand silting up at the mouth of the harbour (the only one on the north coast of Corn¬ wall) was the signal for its rapid decay, which commenced (accord¬ ing to an old tradition) in the reign of Henry VIII. Roman coins and ornaments have been found here, and afford some ground for supposing it to have been a small Roman settlement; but we first hear of it in Saxon times as the residence of St. Patrick, and afterwards of St. Petrock, one of his disciples,—whence its original name, Petrock’s Stow. After Cornwall was subjugated by Athel- stan it became known as Athelstow ; and it bore that name when Leland wrote of it, temp. Henry VHL But it soon after¬ wards received its present appellation. The Church, dedicated to St. Petrock, contains a Norman font—which, of course, belonged to an earlier building—sculp¬ tured with figures of the Twelve Apostles on slate ; a pulpit panelled with old carvings; and numerous but not specially interesting memorials in connection with the families of Prideaux, Merthyr, Rawlings, Guy, and Pendarves. It was long believed that those who were baptized in the font would never be hung ,• but the superstition vanished when one of its proteges, named Elliott, was brought to the gallows for a daring mail robbery The chancel, containing a niched statue of St. Petrock, is the oldest part of the building, and dates from the fifteenth century 42 BRANCH ROUTE-BODMIN TO PADSTOV. Route 1 Place House (C. Prideaux Brune, Esq.), formerly styled Prideaux Castle, and at an earlier period Gwarthandrea, is the chief attraction in Padstow. It was built in the reign of Eliza¬ beth, and is described by Carew as “ the new and stately house of Mr. Nicholas Prideaux, who thereby taketh a ful and large prospect of the towne, haven, and country adjoining ; to all which his wisdom is a stay, his authority a direction.” Its site was originally occupied by a monastery founded by St. Petrock, and destroyed by the Danes in 981, when they plundered and set fire to the town —(Saxon Chronicle). This spacious castellated pile stands upon rising ground at the west end of Padstow, and has a very fine and stately appearance. It contains many of the early pictures of Opie, especially his portraits of the Prideauxs. Here, in 1648, was born Humphrey Prideaux, dean of Norwich, and author of “The Connection between the Old and New Testa¬ ments.” He died in 1724. A fine hedge of tamarisks and another of myrtles bloom in the court before the house, and the grounds are agreeably diver¬ sified with broad open lawns, and clumps of venerable trees. Padstow occupies the low ground on the bank of the Camel estuary at about 1 mile from the sea. The port has a narrow and dangerous entrance ; and to prevent ships, when attempting to bear up for it, from being driven back upon the sands by the wind within the headland, a pilot vessel carries off to them a stout hawser, connected with a capstan on Stepper Point. A harbour of refuge is, however, to be constructed here. The sand from the bar is held in repute as an excellent manure, and from 80,000 to 90,000 tons are annually bought by the Cornish farmers. Half-buried in the loose sand of the east shore of the estuary stands the ancient Church of St. Enodoc, built in 1430, in place of an oratory, which appears to have been engulphed by the shifting sands. Though recently repaired it retains an old-world air, and presents a weather-worn appearance, which the visitor will find infinitely striking. Its interior is ornamented with some rude, quaint wood-work, and contains a plain old Norman font. Ser¬ vice is performed here on alternate Sundays. Above it rises the bare, desolate, and sandy elevation (209 feet) of Brat Hill. [From Padstow an Excursion may be made along the coast to New Quay— Bay 19 miles. Trevose Head is to be recognised by its lighthouse, 129 feet above the sea, and Route 1. MAWGAN-THE NUNNERY. 43 75 feet high, erected in 1S47, and exhibiting two fixed lights. The rocks here are trappean, mixed with beds of sand and argillaceous slate. Near the cliff stands the mouldering tower of the desolated church of St. Constantine, long ago destroyed by the sweeping, billowy sand. About three miles farther we come to that wonderful geological picture, the Redruthan Steps, a scene of gigantic confusion mingled with the most peaceful beauty. The visitor may observe in one of the detached rocks a Idleness to Queen Elizabeth, with crown, ruff, and farthingale. Proceeding on our way, we shortly arrive at Port Mawoan, from whence we may strike inland about 3 miles to the picturesque valley and romantic village of MAWGAN (population, 7G6). Its Church possesses a very stately pinnacled tower, built about 1430, and the interior is adorned with numerous memorials to members of “ the great Arundell” family, among which may be particularized three brasses dated 157S and 15S0. Remark also a brass of an ecclesiastic, d. 1480; the carved screen; and circular Norman font. In the churchyard stands a curiously sculptured cross, presenting on one side a fanciful legend; on the other, in a trefoil-headed niche, the emblems of the Crucifixion. The stem of a boat, painted white, commemorates ten poor fishermen who, one dreadful night in the winter of 1S46, were cast ashore in their own skiff, frozen to death. The Nunnery op Lanherne, seated in the village of JIawgan, was the ancient manor-house of “ the great Arundells,” whose property it became in 1231. “ Their said house,” says Carew, “ is appurtenanced with a large scope of land, which (while the owners there lived) was employed to franke hospitality; yet the same wanted wood, in lieu whereof they burned heath; and, generally, it is more regardable for profit, than commendable for pleasure.” On the failure of the direct line of the Cornish Arundells, Lanherne passed to the Lords Arundell of Ward our, by one of whom, in 1794, it was assigned for the nse of a convent of English Theresian nuns who had been driven from Antwerp (where they had been established since 1619) by the French invasion of Belgium. The present establishment consists of an abbess and 18 English and 2 French nuns, who permit the tourist access to the chapel on Sundays, but screen themselves from his unholy gaze in a gallery closely curtained and boarded up. A silver lamp con¬ tinually bums before the high altar.* * We abridge the following interesting particulars from Mr. Wilkie Collins’ “ Rambles beyond Railways." He says :—“ The nuns never leave the convent, and no one ever sees them in it. Women even are not admitted to visit them; the domestic servants who have been employed in the house for years have never seen their faces—have never heard them speak. It is only in cases of severe and danger¬ ous illness, when their own skill and their own medicines do not avail them, that they admit, from sheer necessity, the only stranger who ever approaches them—the doctor; and on these occasions, whenever it is possible, the face of the patient is concealed from the medical man. The nuns occupy the modem part of the house, which is entirely built off, inside, from the ancient. Their only place for exercise is a garden of two acres, enclosed by lofty walls, and surrounded by trees. Their food and other necessaries are conveyed to them through a turning door; all per¬ sonal communication with the servants’ offices being carried on through the medium of lay sisters.” The nuns have a private way to the chapel, which is in the old part of the house. Their faces are never seen even by the officiating priest, who lives a life of complete solitude. The cemetery is situated in one of the convent-gardens, and completely screened from all observation. Large estates belong to the nuns, who devote the proceeds to a liberal and well-directed charity. 44 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route ] In the cemetery-garden stands an ancient cross (removed from Gwinear), which has at the top a rude sculpture of the Crucifixion, and on one of Its sides an almost illegible inscription, in characters said to be Saxon—( Lysons .) Resuming our coast exploration, we next arrive at Lower St. Columb Porth, where may be witnessed the phenomenon of a blow-hole —the pent-up air forcing out the waters which, at certain times of the tide, enter the fissured rock in a shimmer¬ ing column of spray. NEW QUAY (Inns: Old Inn, and Red Lion), 7 miles from St. Columb, is a small but thriving watering-place, and a busy fisher-town—beautifully situated under a lofty range of cliffs, and upon a beach of fine firm sand, at the western extremity of Watergate Bay. The pilchard fishery here employs a great number of hands from July to November, when the shoals disappear as suddenly as they come. They are caught by nets, averaging in length 190 fathoms, which are cast by the shooters. A smaller net is thrown by the tuckers, to bring the fish within the seine to the sur¬ face ; and warning of the approach of a shoal is given by the huers, who cry “ Heva 1 heva! ” The limestone cliffs in this neighbourhood abound in fossils, and have been hol¬ lowed by the sea into countless little recesses, sandy bays, and caverns. The blown sand found here undergoes a constant process of induration, and is now much used for building purposes, especially when ground and burnt, as a reliable cement. From New Quay the traveller may proceed inland by road to St. Columb (p. 333) if the rail is not preferred. ST. COLUMB MINOR (population, 2314) lies about 2 miles east; a large and populous village,(in a quiet but uninteresting valley. Ri alton Priory —or rather what a vulgar iconoclastic barbarism has spared of it—is close at hand. It was founded by Prior Vivian, of Bodmin, Bishop of Megara, about 1500, but necessarily enjoyed a very brief existence. The ruins exhibit the characteristics of late Per¬ pendicular. Crantock Church, 2 miles west, built of blown sandstone, is a neat and com¬ modious edifice, containing a circular font, dated 1473, removed from an earlier building. In the village of CRANTOCK (population, 307) there is nothing to inte¬ rest the traveller.] MAIN ROUTE RESUMED (see page 293)—BODMIN to GRAMPOUND. Our course, at first, is full of interest. "We are borne through a rich and varied scenery—running for some miles in the beauti¬ ful valley of the Eowey, and gliding past Lanhydroc, right, and the groves of Boconnoc, left. Next, we enter LOSTWITHIEL, and speedily sweeping through that town of “ the lofty palace,” leave Lanlivet on the right, cross the little river Pellin, and the Fowey road, and suddenly turn away to the south-west. We then follow very nearly the course of the St. Austell road, until we pause at Par Station 7S miles, on the east shore of PAR Route 1. PAR-THE PAR CONSOLS MINES. 45 HARBOUR, which the railroad boldly crosses. The Breakwater. 450 feet in length, which forms the harbour, was constructed by Mr. Treffry, and solely at his expense. PAR (population, 1768) is a busy, lively, restless, dirty little town. It carries on a large pilchard fishery, and it exports vast quantities of minerals, ore, and china-clay to Swansea and the Potteries. On the bill above it flourishes the important network of mines known as the Par Consols (or Par Consolidated), which the tourist should not fail to examine. The engine which exhausts the water, or liquid mud, from the depths of the mines, is of great size and astonishing power. . “ The hill beyond pre¬ sents a curious medley of machinery and trees.” Par Station is about 1 mile south of ST. BLAZEY (popula¬ tion, 3150 : Inn : the Packhorse; Market-day , Saturday), a market town of some importance, situated at the head of the inlet of Par Harbour, and surrounded by gently-sloping hills, whose wooded sides and leafy crests lend a delightful charm and beauty of their own to the landscape. Its name commemorates St. Blaise, the titular patron of wool-comhers, and Bishop of Sebaste in America, who was martyred under Licinius in 316. Ribadeneira relates that JEtius, an ancient Greek physician, prescribed the following formula in cases of stoppages in the throat :—“ Hold the afflicted person by the throat, and repeat these words aloud : Blaise, the martyr and servant of Jesus Christ, commands thee to pass up or down!” Candles were offered upon his altar, which were after¬ wards esteemed an infallible cure for the toothache and diseased cattle. The 3d of February is consecrated to St. Blaise in the church of England calendar, and it is duly kept as a holiday in St. Blazey. In the church there is a statue of the patron-saint, but not the less are toothaches and sore throats common enough in the town which does so much honour to him ! Prideaux (Sir C. Rashleigh), a large square mansion, old and substantial, situated in a well-wooded park, lies on the outskirts of the town, somewhat to the north. Prideaux Warren is a ruined entrenchment of British origin. Quarries, china-clay works, tin steam-works, and the copper mines of Fowey Consols and Par Consols, render this neighbour- 46 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 hood a very lively and interesting one for the savant or mine¬ ralogist. For artist and poet, the richly-wooded valley of Caru- meus —its slopes all rugged with huge masses of granite, and its depths resounding with the noise of falling water—offers an almost inexhaustible source of enjoyment. The architect should visit the Treffry Viaduct, flung across a deep valley with astonishing audacity ; and the archaeologist may bend his steps to the Logan Stone, upon Helmen Tor, and the towered church, mossy with time, of Luxulian. To the traveller who thinks the proper study of mankind is man, we commend a ramble among the Cornish fishermen of MEVAGISSEY* (population, 2073), and Par Harbour. Bold, restless, generous-hearted fellows ; prompt in peril, and, literally, as brave as lions ! Full of strange weird superstitions and legends of adventure, which they flavour with a racy Cornish saying, or a snatch of old rude Cornish song ! When Captain Pellew (afterwards Lord Exmouth) captured the French frigate Cleop&tre, the first prize in the great revolutionary war, his omul ship, the Nymphe, was manned by a crew, one- third of whom were Cornish fishermen, totally unaccustomed to the discipline of a man-of-war. “ Tlieir bravery not the less was truly English. A lad, torn by the pressgang from a barber’s shop, became, by the deaths and wounds of his comrades, captain of one of the main-deck guns, and throughout the action gave the necessary directions with all the sangfroid of a veteran. A miner, after the engagement, was observed sitting in a desponding mood upon a gun-carriage, complaining that his sea-sickness had returned now the battle was over, and that his leg smarted terribly. The surgeoii ascertained—what he himself had not perceived—that he had been wounded in the leg by a musket-shot, and that the ball still lodged in the wound.” t We again resume our route, but for a very short run, inas¬ much as we reach, in about 4 miles, the populous town of * From “ St. Mevan,” and “ St. Issey,” according to some authorities, f Adams’s “ Sea-kings of England.” Route 1 ST. AUSTELL. 47 ST. AUSTELL— i.e., St. Auxilics. [Population, 13,612. Inns: The White Hart, The Globe. 242 m. from London ; 14 m. from Truro ; 6} m. from Grampound; 4J m. by road from St. illazey; Si m. from Lostwithiel; 39J m. from Launceston; and 41i m. from Plymouth. Banks : Messrs. Coode and Co. ; Messrs. Robins, Foster, and Co.; and Branch of Devon and Cornwall Banking Company.— Market-Day, Friday. This quaint old labyrinth of very narrow and remarkably crooked streets which, in Leland’s time, was but a mean village, and during the Civil War was taken by Charles I., owes its importance to the mines and china-clay works in its vicinity. At Charlestown (or Polmear), 2 miles south, there is a small har¬ bour, where shipment is made of the china-clay which is brought in waggons through St. Austell. The Railway Station (north of the town) adds to its bustle, and increases its importance, and St. Austell is rapidly rising in opulence, adding to its population, and enlarging its boundaries. Most authorities agree in deriving its name from St. Auxilius, a Celtic bishop and martyr, whose name is not retained in the Anglican Calendar. The Church, dedicated to St. Austin, is one of the handsomest in Cornwall, though its general effect is somewhat injured by the vicinity of shops and houses. Its lofty Perpendicular tower, in tnree stories, with groups of decorated niches, and shapely pinnacled buttresses, is a thing to behold and wonder at. The niches, 18 in number, are filled with statues of God the Father supporting the Saviour on the Cross ; the Virgin Mary and Joseph ; three saints ; and the twelve apostles. Everywhere the ornamentation is fanciful and delicate. On the buttresses of the south side are sculptured the emblems and implements of the crucifixion ; the ladder which Christ carried ; the spear which wounded his side ; and the nails which transfixed his hands and feet. Over the porch is a Cornish inscription,—Ry Du, “ Give to God.” The oldest portion of the building is the Early English chancel. The nave is of the same date as the tower. Mr. Drew imagines, but, we think erroneously, that the chancel is identical with the chantry chapel erected by one Philip Cornwallis in 1291 It is at least a century earlier in date. The font is Early English. The Church was restored in 1870. 48 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 In the market-place is preserved the Menegew (or Mengu) Stone, where strayed cattle were sold by auction, and proclama¬ tions and public notices are delivered. The Market-House and Town Hall is a large well-looking building of granite ; and the Devon and Cornwall Bank, a clever combination of granite and marble, which would be “ a credit ” to any town, however extensive its trade or honourable its position. Leaving St. Austell for a brief excursion in its vicinity, we shall notice, in succession, the China Clay Works, the Carclaze Tin Mine, the Giant’s Staff, and the Roche Rocks. At Menacuddle, 2 miles, on the St. Blazey road, there is a small cascade, and a holy well is rendered picturesque by the ivied ruins of its ancient baptistry. China clay, or soft growan, is a species of moist granite —that is, the rock once so firm and tenacious has been reduced by the decomposition of the felspar * into a soft adhesive substance, not unlike mortar, and this, when purified from mica, schorl, or quartz, is admirably adapted for the manufacture of the best kinds of pottery. It is identical with the Chinese kaolin, or porcelain clay. When this growan or clay is of tolerable adhesiveness, and when, from its containing a larger proportion of quartz, it may be said to resemble the Chinese petuntse, it is excavated in large blocks, or slabs, and exported as “ China-stone ; ” but the kaolin or China-clay requires a more careful treatment. This is piled in stopes or layers, upon an inclined plane, and a stream of water is then directed over it, which carries with it the finer and purer portions, and deposits them in a large reservoir, while the coarser residuum is caught in pits {catch-pools or catch-pits) placed at suitable intervals. From the reservoir all the water is drawn off, and the clay removed to pans, where it is passed under the influence of a novel drying-machine, thoroughly relieved of mois¬ ture (two tons in five minutes), properly packed up in barrels, and removed to the sea side for shipment. The discovery of China-clay in Cornwall is due to W. Cook- worthy, the Plymouth Quaker (a.d. 1768), and though it was not accepted at first with much favour, the quantity now exported in one year amounts, in round numbers, to 85,000 tons of the value of £260,000. More than 7000 persons are employed in * “ Felspar,” says a German chemist, “ is at all times disposed to play tho part of a false friend, and forsake its companions in distress.” Route ]. THE CARCLAZE TIN MINE. 49 its production and exportation. Tlie best quality fetches from 36s. to 40s. a ton, the worse no more than 18s. The Carclaze Tin Mine woidd be worth visiting were all mining operations totally suspended, on account of its singular picturesqueness, and, so to speak, uniqueness of character. Its name it derives from the growan, or decomposed felspar of granitic rocks—gray rock or carclaze —within which it has been excavated, and it occupies an elevated table-land (full 600 feet above the sea-level) 1 f mile north-east of St. Austell. The way to it branches off from the St. Blazey road at about 1 mile from the town. The tourist, when he comes suddenly upon it, after a wild moorland ramble, will imagine himself transported into some mysterious “ Tom Tiddler’s ground,” and that Titans have been hewing out a silver-walled palace, whose foundations are designed to occupy an area 1 mile in circuit, and 140 to 150 feet in ave¬ rage depth. In its general aspect it may be compared to a vast crater, varying in depth in the open parts from 120 to 130 feet, but where sunk as a mine, in many places, to the additional depth of 50 or 60 feet. “ This mine is traditionally reputed to have been in work¬ ing full 400 years ; and it was declared by the late John Sawle, Esq., to whom the soil belonged, that the dues which it paid to various claimants, 350 years ago, were more than it has dis¬ charged in recent times. The lodes are numerous, but not large, and, as they approach the surface, the metalliferous veins become more various and ramified, yet in their descent they conjoin, and occasionally furnish very rich bunches of tin. In every direc¬ tion the ground is (was) more or less impregnated with this valu¬ able ore.* Before the open workings were sunk to their present depth, the ore, or ‘ tin-stuff’ dug out by the miners, was con- conveyed (in its way to the pulverizing mills) in boats through an adit or tunnel formed in the side of the hill; but the mouth of the adit having fallen in whilst the boats were within side, that method of conveyance was abandoned. The water and refuse are at present carried off by means of an open drain, on an inclined plane, but the ore itself is pulverized and refined in the different stamping mills which have been erected within the excavation.” * Little ore is now extracted, and the clay is the chief thing sought for. E 50 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PEXZAXCE. Route 1 And here it will probably be of convenience to the tourist that we should briefly glance at the various processes of tin mining, and the history of the Cornish mines. Tin, as a metal, was held in high repute by the civilized nations of antiquity. They obtained it principally from Portugal and the north of Spain, and the great tin-mart was stationed at Cadiz, supposed by some to be the Tarshish of Scripture. From thence the adventurous Carthaginians pushed their researches in every direction, and at length discovered the Cassiterides, or tin islands, now the Scilly, and the shores of Britain—“ the land of tin,”—monopolizing them for their own advantage by giving out erroneous reports of their geographical position. The Phocean Greeks, however, in due time explored the Atlantic ocean, and discovered the secret source of Carthaginian wealth. Marseilles or Massilia then became an important commercial entrepot. Finally, Publius Crassus, some years before the coming of Julius Caesar, made the same discovery, and published it to his country¬ men, who immediately commenced a traffic between England and the coast of Gaul, instructing the natives in their system of mining, and encouraging them to cross the channel in their leather-bound skiffs. The tin was deposited in the Isle of Wight, or at St. Michael’s Mount—for which was the real Ir.ng of Dio¬ dorus Siculus remains a moot point with antiquaries—and from thence exported to certain ports on the coast of France. The tin trade continued, with various fluctuations, through the centuries of anarchy which followed the departure of the Romans. After the Norman Conquest it fell into the hands of the Jews, and their smelting furnaces still exist under the deno¬ mination of Jews' Houses. But the veritable history of the Cor¬ nish tin trade dates from the time of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, who, in order to promote its development, made the miners of Cornwall independent of those of Devonshire, granted them the privilege of holding their own courts for all suits relating to the min es except those of life, limb, and land, and established prisons for criminal miners at Lydford and Lostwithiel. The Stannary Parliament, to consist of twenty-four deputies from different divi¬ sions, was shortly afterwards instituted, and its places of meeting appointed, at Truro for Cornwall, and Crockern Tor on Dartmoor for Devonshire. The mine-owners, in return for these great privileges, agreed to pay to the earls of Cornwall a certain duty upon every cwt. of tin, and several towns were selected, whither Route 1 TIN MINES. 51 the blocks of metal should be brought for the purposes of coining (or stamping) and assaying. By recent regulations the control of the mines has been placed in the hands of a vice-warden for each county, who must be a barrister of at least five years’ standing, and the Stannary courts of judicature ; from whose decisions an appeal lies to the Lord Warden, assisted by three members of the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, and finally to the House of Lords. The tin trade has rapidly developed of late years, and yet its rapidity of progress has by no means equalled the copper trade. The annual value of copper exported may be roughly estimated at Tl,350,000, for about 15,000 tons of pure copper, extracted from 220,000 tons of ore. The tin mines (chiefly placed in the neighbourhood of St. Agnes and St. Austell) produce about 550 tons, worth ,£500,000. According to the census of 1871, the copper mines employed 18,000 persons ; the tin mines, 12,000. Tli q peroxide of tin is usually found to run in veins or lodes, from east to west, averaging in breadth from 12 to 40 inches, but differing greatly in depth. A pit is sunk, and a cross-cut or gallery excavated from north to south, so as to cut across all the lodes which may exist in the locality selected. A lode being found, a license to work it must be obtained from the owner of the soil, who is then called the lord, and receives as his share (or dish ) about T Vth of the ore raised. The adventurers divide the remainder among themselves according to agreement. Care has then to be taken for the drainage of the mine, which is partly effected by the excavation of an adit or tunnel, through which superfluous water may be pumped into some adjacent valley, and, more thoroughly, by steam-engines of great size and power. In some mines, however, water-power and manual labour are still brought into requisition. The steam- engine (Trevethick’s high-pressure boilers) pumps the water into the adit at the rate, perhaps, of 1200 to 1600 gallons a minute. The descent into the mine is made by means of the shaft, a square-shaped well about 9 feet in diameter, divided into two portions by a wooden partition. The labourers make use of one, and the other is reserved for the removal of the ore, aud the deads, or refuse. The machine employed is called a whim, and is worked by horses or a steam-engine. As one bucket (or kihbal) descends, another is raised to the surface. The bowels of the earth are penetrated in a horizontal direction by levels, or 52 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZAKCE. Route 1 galleries, worked at various depths, and reached hy means of shafts. These excavations are principally effected hy blasting with gunpowder, and are carried to such an extent, that miles upon miles of ground are traversed. Thus, at Gwennap, the rock has been tunnelled for a distance of 60 miles. At Huel Cok they have been carried under the bed of the sea, and it is said that when abandoned on account of its danger, only four feet of rock remained between the miners and the waters of ocean. The miners work eight hours at a spell, are naked to the waist, and, notwithstanding the contrivances adopted to secure a good ventilation, suffer so much from the intense heat, that they have been known to lose 5 lbs. in weight during one spell. Besides the underground mine, there exist in several parts of Cornwall what are called stream-works, and these produce the purest metal. The process of working is simple—running water is dir ected over the ore, so as to remove all alluvial matter, and the tin ore is then collected. Returning to the mine proper, we find the following processes adopted :—1. It is first spalled, or broken into small pieces, and then reduced to powder hy means of stamping-mills, worked hy steam power, which force it through a plate of iron pierced with small holes. A stream of water then carries it into several pits— the crop, or head, that is, the best portion, falls into the first, and the residuum, the si hie, or tail, into the others. 2. The crop is next removed to the huddle (a large pit), and deposited on an inclined frame of wood—the jagging-loard —where it is again subjected to the washing process, and separated into parcels of different value. “ When the ore is rich, there is little difficulty in washing away earths, in consequence of the greater specific gravity of the tin ore ; hut in poorer ones this is more difficult, especially when they are mixed with copper and other ores which are likewise heavy’’— (Dr. Thomson). 3. The crop having again been selected, is further purified hy tossing and stirring it in a large keeve full of water. The tin sinks to the bottom, is once more assorted, and the selected portion is now removed to the lurning- house, or, if entirely free from mundic (i.e., ferruginous and ar¬ senical pyrites), to the smelting-furnaces. 4. In the burning-house the ores are placed in small reverberatory furnaces, fed hy Welsh coal and kept at a moderate heat. They are frequently turned over hy an iron rake, to expose fresh surfaces. Sulphurous acid and arsenious acid being volatilized, the sulphurous acid escapes, Route 1 . TIN MINES. 53 and the arsenious acid is condensed in properly constructed hori¬ zontal flues. 5. Removed from the burning-house, the ores are again tossed, or washed, until fit for smelting —that is, deoxida¬ tion. The smelting-furnaces are of the reverberatory kind, hold¬ ing each from 12 to 16 cwts. of ore, which is prepared by mixing it with coal, or Welsh culm and slaked lime. It is then heated into a state of fusion, and kept so for about seven hours. The lime, uniting with the silicious and argillaceous matter still adhering to the tin, forms a slag which floats on the surface of the fused metaL The slag is raked off through the door, while the fused metal pours off by a tap-hole in the bottom of the furnace, and is laded into moulds, which form it into slabs of a moderate size. The slag is pounded, stamped, and washed, and the tin, or prillion, extracted from it is again smelted. 6. The slabs removed from the moulds are now placed in a refining- furnace, and gradually melted, that they may be purified of iron, copper, sulphurets, or arseniates, tungsten, or slag. The fused metal is then skimmed, and being laded into granite or cast-iron moulds, is fashioned into blocks of about 3 or 4 cwts. each, con¬ taining about 75 parts of metal, and is ready for sale. The coining or stamping is no longer effected in the coinage-towns, but at the mouth of the mine. The miners, as a class, are noted for their sobriety and prudence. Upon emerging from his underground labours, “ the miner goes into the changing-house, a place appointed for the purpose, washes, and takes off his woollen working-dress ; then, if the mine is not deep, and his labour too great, on repairing to his cottage he cultivates his acre or two of ground, which he obtains on lease upon easy terms from the heathy downs, for three lives, at a few shillings’ rent. Then by degrees he has contrived to build a small cottage, often a good part of it with his own hands, the stone costing him nothing; or it may be he has only taken land for the growth of potatoes, to cultivate which he pares and bums the ground, and rents a cottage at 50s. or 60s. a year, with a right of turf fuel, which he cuts and pre¬ pares himself. Many miners have tolerable gardens, and some are able to do their own carpentry work, and near the coast others are expert fishermen”—( Cyrus Redding). The tourist who descends into a mine will have to assume a fitting attire;—a shirt and trousers of flannel, in order to absorb the perspiration; a stout pair of shoes, a cap of linen, and a 54 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 broad-brimmed bat, or helmet, designed to protect the head from blows against the rock. A candle is then fixed to his hat by a lump of clay, and he is ready for the adventure. Some interest¬ ing details relative to Cornish mines and miners will be found in Mr. Walter White’s amusing volume, “A Londoner’s Walk to the Lands’ End,” and in Mr. Wilkie Collins’ “ Rambles beyond Railways.” We close our notices with a short vocabulary' of terms made use of by the miners in reference to their labours, and the metals they labour on:— Black Jack , zinc blende, or sidphide of zinc; Buddie, a parcel of ore; Elvan, porphyry; Gossan, a combination of clay and oxide of iron, which is considered to indicate the existence of a rich vein of copper; Growan, disintegrated granite; Hu el, or Wheal, a mine ( Huel, a hole, Cornish ); Killas, or Flukan, a decomposition of granite; Keeve, a large bucket or tank; Lifter, a wooden pile used in the stamping-machine ; Mundic, iron pyrites, or bisulphide of iron; Prillion, tin extracted from slag; Tozer, the man who tozes, stirs, or washes the crop-tin; Trihuter, an ore-digger; Tutman, a shaft-sinker. After this long digression it may be necessary to remind the tourist that our excursion from St. Austell was intended to include a visit to the Giant’s Staff, and the Roche Rocks. The Roche Rocks may be visited from Carclaze. They are 680 feet above the sea, and resemble a huge mass of schorl rocks hastily piled one upon another to an elevation of 100 feet. An adjoining spring ebbs and flows, it is said, in accordance with the tides of the distant ocean. In the centre Re the scattered ruins of a Decorated chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, which has been the resort of two or three hapless hermits. Legend rims riot in this lonesome and desolate region. Hither, in the depth of the stormy night, fRes the giant Tregeagle, spurring in vain his supernatural steed, and ever pursued by a demon huntsman who hallooes to the chase a pack of demon-hounds. [Dozmare Pool (from Dosmery) is a gloomy tarn near Bron GiUy, which, in strange resemblance to the punishment of the Danaides, Tregeagle, is doomed to empty with a limpet-sheR. His demon-hunter finds him there, at times, engaged at .his endless labours, and straight begins the chase; when Tregeagle instantly makes for the Roche rocks, a run of 16 miles, that he may defy his persecutor by entering the haRowed precincts cf Route 1. ROCHE-THE GIANT'S STAFF. 55 the ruined chapel. Some traditions represent him as a nicked lord whose palace once occupied the site of Dozmare Pool, and whose hunting grounds were the now treeless wastes of the Bodmin Moors. Others accuse him of having murdered his nephew. It is sometimes said that his punishment is to weave ropes out of the sands of the sea-shore, the endless labour which Michael Scott imposed upon the Devil. Tregeagle was, in ‘propria persond, that not uncommon villain, a dishonest steward, who amassed great wealth by grinding down the poor, and cheating his master, and whose evil memory lives after him. We shall meet with his footprints in many parts of Cornwall.] BOCIIE (population, 1863), on the skirts of the Tregoss moors, is a village of tolerable size. A Norman font is the princi¬ pal attraction in its Church, which was rebuilt in 1822. St. Roche’s Well is held in some esteem by marriageable lasses, who hasten thither on Holy Thursday to cast in, as an offering to St. Roche, pins and needles, and to determine their fates by the number and brightness of its prophetic bubbles. It was formerly reputed to have a sanative influence upon lunatics, who were cruelly immersed in its water until half-drowned or terrified into a comatose condition. Hensbarrow Beacon, 1034 feet high, may be visited by the tourist on his way back into St. Austell. The Giant’s Staff raises its granitic pillar in a meadow on the left of the Pentewan road, near Penrice (Sir C. Sawle, Bart.) It is about 12 feet high, and tapers towards the top, where the giant clutched it. Tregeagle while crossing the Daporth hills one stormy night, lost his hat, which he sought in vain to recover, and being embarrassed by his staff, flung it aside that he might pursue his search w T ith greater ease. He could not dis¬ cover his hat, and then he Beturned for his stick, but that also, in the darkness, had disappeared. The next day, however, both hat and staff were found by the villagers—the hat, an oval frag¬ ment of granite, remained on the neighbouring hill until, in November 1798, it was hurled off the steep and cast into the sea, by some soldiers who imagined it to be the cause of the constant rain with which, during their “ camping out,” they were afflicted. Pontewan has a small harbour connected with St. Austell by an iron tram-way. Its tin stream-works, in some places sub- 56 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 marine, are no longer in operation, but the place derives some importance from the surrounding quarries. In the neighbourhood is Heligan (J. H. Tremayne, Esq.) Diversions may be made from hence to the bold precipitous headland of Black Head (eastward), 153 feet high, the north¬ east extremity of Mevagissey Bay, or westward to MEVAGISSEY {Inn: The Ship), its Church, pier, and harbour— Portiiellin, the “ yellow cove,” and its remains of a British camp; Chapel Point, the north boundary of Mevagissey Bay; and the small fishing-village of Gorran Haven. Bodrigan’s Leap is a grass-grown spot on the coast, near Chapel Point, upon which (as tradition assures us) Sir Harry Bodrigan leaped from the cliff above to escape the pursuit of his foes, the Trevanions and Edgcumbes. Having espoused the cause of Perkin Warbeck, he was convicted of treason against Henry VII., and they sought to deliver him up ; but it is said that he swam off to a vessel coasting along the shore, and escaped in safety to France. Tregehan or Tregrea (Major Carlylon) is a well-wooded demesne, undermined by the galleries and tunnels of Old Crinnis mines, on the left of the road to St. Blazey, and nearly 3 miles from St. Austell. In this direction the tourist may explore, as he will, numerous limestone quarries, china-clay works, tin stream- works, and the mines of Par Mount and West Par. Having thus surveyed the numerous objects of interest which render a two or three days’ pause at St. Austell desirable on the part of the intelligent tourist, we resume our seats in our mythic railway carriage, and are soon carried across a deep valley on a graceful viaduct, and hurled through a hilly country in a succes¬ sion of formidable cuttings. ST. MEWAN (population, 1078), its low-towered church and straggling village, and above it the greenstone elevation of St. Mewan’s Beacon, 385 feet, rise upon our right. To the left lie the ancient mines of Polglook (the old pool), to which the early prosperity of St. Austell has been ascribed. They are descended to by upwards of 50 shafts, and were first worked in the reign of Elizabeth. At 5 miles from St. Austell we pass (left) Hewas Tin Mine, on a tolerably high ground, and containing some Jews’ Houses (i. e., the furnaces established by its Jewish proprietors). The railway next winds through the British camps (both on the right and left) which literally stud the east bank of the Fal, crosses Route 1 GRAMPOUND-PROBUS. 57 that pleasant little river, and enters the Grampound Road Sta¬ tion, 7 miles from St. Austell, and 2 miles north-west of GRAMPOUND (population, 478), i.e., Grand Pont — the Voliba of the ancient geographers—a notorious “ sink of corrup¬ tion” even in the days of “rotten boroughs” and, therefore, dis¬ franchised in 1821. It may be mentioned to its credit, however, that John Hampden first entered Parliament as its representative (a.d. 1620). It has a granite cross, and an ancient chapel, now made use of as a market house, while within a few miles of it, and chiefly on the east bank of the river, are six British en¬ trenchments. To the south lies TREGONY, a small hamlet, on the Fal. 'W’e may reach it through the villages of CREED and CUBY. At the latter, the parish church of Tregony, an old font, and some rude carved work, may be worth examination. Remark the scanty ruins of the castle, built by Henry de Pomeroy, temp. Richard I. To the south-west, 2 miles, lies RUAN LANHIORNE (population, 360), where John Whitaker , for some years its rector, is interred. His extensive erudition is lavishly displayed in his histories of ‘Manchester’ and of the ‘Cathedrals of Cornwall.’ Three miles to the south-east, near ST. MICHAEL CAERHAYS (population, 146), is Caerhays Castle, a modern castellated pile, designed by Nash. The Church contains some interesting memorials of the Trevanions. From the shore below it a fine view may be enjoyed of a varied and picturesque line of coast, from Dodman Point, 379 feet high, to Pamare Point. Two miles west of Grampound, on the Truro road, is PROBUS (population, 1381. Inn: The Hawkins Arms), 250 miles from London, occupying an elevated site, 305 feet above the ocean- bed. Probus is famous for its church, or rather church-tower, erected, as Carew tells us, “ by the well-disposed inhabitants” in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, though, from its surpassing excel¬ lence, one would have rather ascribed it to the palmiest days of Perpendicular Gothic. In design it resembles many of the fine towers of Somersetshire, as well as that of Magdalen College, Oxford. Entirely built of granite, and ornamented with the most delicate sculpture, it reaches an elevation of 108 feet, surmounted by eight clusters of foliated pinnacles, 13 feet higher There are 58 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE Route 1 . three stories : the lowest, occupied by three canopied niches for statues ; the second, with a single window and clock-dial ; and the third, with a double window and panelling above. The intermediate pinnacles and the general elegance of the decoration produce an effect of graceful lightness which the spectator imme¬ diately recognises. On the front of the gallery, constructed in 1723 with panels removed from the ancient rood-screen, is the legend —“ Jesus, hear us, thy people, and send us Grace and Good for Ever”—in obvious allusion to the saints to whom the church is dedicated, “a married pair,” Sts. Probus and Grace. A sepul¬ chral cross commemorates I. Wolvedon, 1515, and the tomb of Thomas Hawkins is enriched with well-executed figures in white marble of a female consoled by an angel. The font and pulpit are Perpendicular in style, but of recent construction. A fair held here on the 5th of every July is called Probus and Grace. A college of secular canons, for a dean and five prebendaries, was founded here before the Conquest, and suppressed by Henry "VTII. The vicarage house is still termed the Sanctuary ; and CORNELLY (population, 92) and MERTHYR (population, 300) are regarded as the daughter-churches of Probus. In the church- town itself there is nothing to detain the tourist. It straggles along the main road with a melancholy air, and one cannot help wondering that so squalid a collection of mean houses should be able to boast of so stately a church ; especially as there is no ground for supposing that it was ever richer or larger than at present. Treherne (Rev. W. Stackhouse) is situated on the Truro road, and, 2 miles from Probus, at the bottom of an Arcadian dell, Tresillian Bridge, memorable as the scene of the surrender of the Royalist army—which, under Sir Ralph Hopton, had so long held Cornwall for the King—to Sir Thomas Fairfax (a.d. 1646), crosses St. Clement’s Creek- Pendennis Castle, the last Royalist stronghold, capitulated a few weeks later. Trewithen (C. H. Hawkins, Esq.),— i. e., “ the place of trees”—is scarcely half a mile from Probus, on the Grampound road. At Golden on this estate —which is like a weU-wooded basin in the centre of a ring of bare, bleak hills—there are remains of a British camp. A noble mansion was erected here by one of the Tregians, about 1520, but it has passed away. The demesne originally belonged to the Wolvedons, from whose name arose the corruption, Golden. Route 1 . ST. COLUMB MAJOR. 59 A pleasant excursion from Grampound will be indicated in the following notes. BRANCH ROUTE—GRAMPOUND to PADSTOW, 27 Miles. At Probus the tourist will turn to the right, and keep the new road which follows the course of the pleasant river for some miles. Numerous tin stream-works will attract his attention, and delightful “ bits of scenery ” claim a place in his sketch-book. The landscapes are of a softer and richer character than one is accustomed to see in Cornwall, and not unlike some of the central portions of Surrey. A pebbly brook and a clump of venerable trees ; a stretch of fresh green sward ; a little rural cottage ; a swelling outline of distant hills—such are the agreeable features upon winch his eye will be fain to linger. LADOCK (popula¬ tion, 935), 4-i- miles, is a picturesque village, with a plain old church. To the right rises Barrow Down. At Fraddon, near the granitic mass of Calliquoiter Rock (690 feet in altitude), we join the Bodmin road, which we follow for half a mile or so to the north-east, and then, near the lonely little inn of the Indian Queen, we turn to the left, crossing a range of lulls, and leaving on our right the bleak expanse of Tregoss Moor—“ King Arthur’s Hunting-ground.” As we advance, the remarkable elevation of Castle-an-Dinas looms magnificently against the sky. It is worth while to climb its rugged steep for an examination of the noble panorama which it overlooks, and of the remains—which crest its summit—of an ancient entrenchment, protected by a triple fosse and vallum, and measuring 1700 feet in diameter. The peasants call it King Arthur’s Castle. The hill is 729 feet high. Far away to the east, on the Bodmin road, rises Belovely or Belouda Beacon, 765 feet high, overshadowing Bryn, the birth-place of the loyal cavalier Sir Bevil Grenville. And now we ascend the hill to ST. COLUMB MAJOR (popu¬ lation, 2752. Inn: The Red Lion. Market-day: Thursday), 242 miles from London, 22 miles from Camelford, 12 miles from Bodmin, 6 miles from Port Mawgan, and 13 miles from Probus. A fine old town, on an elevated table land, with some good houses and a stately church. “ The Red Lion,” too, is a comfort- 60 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . able, old-fashioned inn ; its former host was Polkinhorne,* the famous wrestler, the champion of Cornwall, and by many con¬ sidered to have been entitled to the championship of the four west counties. One who knew him describes him as “ a very good-looking, thick-set man—still he did not look the man he was —‘ he had that within him that surpassed show.”’ Wrestling is still a favourite pastime in the country round St. Columb. The Church is dedicated to St. Columb, an Irish bishop and martyr, and one of the disciples of St. Patrick, and not, as Camden says, to St. Columba, “ a woman saint who was a virgin and a martyr.” It is a cruciform building of considerable dimensions, whose older portions date from the twelfth century. The general style, both of nave, north and south aisles, transept, chancel, and chancel aisles, is Early English of that period when it was verg¬ ing upon the Decorated. The font, the south window, and the chancel-arch are worth examination. The timber employed in its construction is said to have been all felled on Tregoss Moor ( gosse , a wood), but that wild waste is utterly bare of leaf and branch, nor does it ever appear to have been planted. Remark the memorials to Sir John Arundel and- Hollyn of Nans- whyden, d. 1756. The building was much injured in 1676 by an accidental explosion of gunpowder. The ancient Rectory House has been thoroughly restored. Trewan (-Vyvyan, Esq.) occupies the hill beyond the town, and commands a landscape of vast extent and varied beauty. On the leafy hillside westward, above the romantic valley of Mawgan, stands Carnanton (H. Willyams, Esq.), the residence of Charles the First’s obnoxious attorney-general. Four miles north-east of the town, on the Camelford road, are six upright stones, mossed with age, the remains of an ancient cromlech. They were formerly nine in number, and known as the Nine Maidens. St. Columb forms an excellent headquarters for explorers of the coast between New Quay (p. 44) and Redruthan Steps (p. 43), and the Vale of Lanlierne, in which the town is situate. The excursion from St. Columb via Nanswhyder to New Quay, thence along the coast—remarkable for its beautiful coves and fantastic cliffs—to Redruthan Steps, and back by Lanherne, is strongly recommended. * The silver punch-howl and portrait presented to Polkinhorne are preserved here. Route 1 . TRURO. 61 MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—GRAMPOUND ROAD to TRURO. The railway between these two points, 7£ miles, follows so closely the line of the main road that in describing the course of one we describe both. The country is agreeable in character, but not distinguished by any features of remarkable interest. Ladock lies on our right, Probus on our left, and then we cross the Creek, which, half a mile lower down, is spanned by Tresillian Bridge. Just before entering Truro, we pass (on our left) Pen'air, the seat of Lady Barrington Reynolds. TRURO. [Population, 10,663. Inns: The Red Lion, The Royal. 250 m. from London; 7 m. from Grampound; 9 m. from Penryn; 11 m. from Falmouth ; 14 m. from St. Austell: 23J m. from Lostwitliiel; 2S m. from Penzance; and 55 m. by road from Plymouth. Bankers. —Messrs. Tweedy and Co. ; Wiliyams and Co. ; and Branch of Devon and Cornwall Banking Company. Market-days —Wednesday and Saturday. Truro is the seat of a bishopric, and returns two M.P.’s. Old Leland’s description of Truro may still be quoted as a faithful one :—“ The creke of Truro afore the very town, is divided into two parts, and eche of them has a brook cumming down, and a bridge, and this toune of Truro betwixt them both.” It assumes, therefore, something of a triangular shape—washed on the east by the river (or rivulet) Allen, and on the west by the Kenwyn. Between the streams Res Truro proper—St. Mary’s parish ; on the east and west gather the suburbs respectively of St. Clement’s and Kenwyn. The creek or inlet—a branch of Falmouth Harbour—expands at high water into a noble lake 2 miles in length, and of sufficient depth for vessels of a hundred tons burden to load or unload at the quays. “ There is not a toune in the west part of the shire,” wrote Norden in 1574, “ more commendable for neatness of buyldinges, nor more dis¬ commendable for the pride of the people.” The first clause of his pithy description may still be repeated and affirmed ; the 62 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . second might now be justly considered a libeL Truro has emi¬ nently the air of a busy, prosperous, well-to-do town ; its prin¬ cipal streets, which radiate from the market-place, and are mostly enlivened by a pleasant water-course, are well kept, and lined with good houses and thriving shops ; its public buildings are of more than ordinary pretensions. So with its churches ; they are large, handsome, and decorously preserved. The trade of Truro is fairly considerable, although like other towns in Corn¬ wall it has suffered from the recent depression in the mining trade. There exist several large lead mines in its vicinity, and the Vice-warden of the Stannaries holds here his court of judi¬ cature. Pottery-works, foundries, blast-houses, tin-works, etc., surround it and feed it with life and motion, and its annual fair on Holy Thursday—announced, as at Kingsbridge, by a glove hung out from a window in the principal street—is as lively a spectacle as one could wish to share in. Before we promenade through the town, however, let us inquire what historical and literary associations render it of interest to the man of letters. Several etymologies have been suggested for its appellation. In ancient records it is written Tre-ve-ru and Tri-c-ureu, and, as a castle was built here by the Earls of Cornwall, and the affix ru or uru, in the old itineraries, signifies a river, Whitaker, with much plausibility, suggests the interpretation of—the Castle on the Streams. Borlase explains it as Tre-vur, the Town on the Boad—that is, the vid, or Roman road. Others, again, will have it to be Tru-ru, the Three Streets. 'Who shall decide when anti¬ quarians disagree ? Perhaps the tourist will adopt, as we have done, Whitaker’s explanation. The history of Truro may be summed up in fewest words. It grew up under the shadow of the Earls of Cornwall’s fortress, and, about 1130, assumed such proportions that its lord, the celebrated Richard de Lacy, Chief Justiciary of England, granted it a charter of incorporation. Queen Elizabeth granted it a new charter in 1589, and constituted it a municipal borough under a mayor, four aldermen, and twenty chief burgesses, to whom she granted the privilege of returning two members to Parliament. Though occupied by Sir Richard Hopton in 1642 and 1646, it suffered little during the civil war. As the tin and copper trades have increased in importance, Truro, as the 6eat of the Stannary Court, has also expanded and thriven mightily, Route 1 . TRURO. 63 and there is no limit to be arbitrarily fixed to its substantial growth. Two mediaeval customs still exist here —“ On the election of a mayor, the town-mace must be delivered to the lord of the manor, who retains it until paid sixpence for every house, as an acknowledgment. He also claims a duty, called smoke money, from most of the burgage houses.” Truro has given birth to several men of eminence—to Samuel Foote, in 1721, at the town-residence of his father’s family, the Footes of Lambesso—now the Red Lion Hotel, Bos- cawen Street—which seems to preserve much of its original cha¬ racter. This clever mime and successful farce-writer died in 1777. Here, too, were born the brothers Richard and John Lander, the adventurous explorers of the Niger ; Lord Vivian, a gallant and skilful soldier ; Bode, a painter of some merit ; Henry Martyn, in 1781, d. 1812, one of the most earnest and self-denying of mis¬ sionaries, the son of a common miner ; Dr. Thomas Harries, in 1734, one of the founders of the London Missionary Society ; and, in 1760, Richard Polwhele, the historian of Devon and Cornwall. The town gave the title of baron to the late eminent lawyer and Lord Chancellor, Lord Truro (Sir Thomas Wilde), July 1850. Of the castle built by the Earls of Cornwall only the terraced mound whereon its massive battlements were raised, now en¬ circled by a modern wall, is in existence. In Leland’s time its site was used as “ a shoting and playing place.” Truro was for centuries one of the coinage towns where the tin was assayed and stamped, and the duty on it levied. In the place of the old Coinage Hall now rises the Elizabethan fa$ade of the Devon and Cornwall Bank. The Town Hall was built in 1846. A Doric Column, at the top of Lemon Street, commemorates the adventures of Richard and John Lander, the brave explorers of the Niger. It was erected by subscription in 1835. The Cathedral op St. Mary, now building, in the Early English style of architecture, will cost, when completed, nearly £100,000. The foundation-stone was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1880. The old building was erected about 1518, and contained a nave, cbancel, and south aisle, with tower and octagonal spire erected more recently. The two east windows were separated by a Decorated niche, and the exterior walls adorned with elaborate sculpture. The monument to Owen Phippen, d. 1636, commemorated the capture by him and ten 64 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . other Christian captives of the vessel in which they were con¬ fined, from the Turks, 65 in number, navigated it to Gibraltar, and sold it for £6000. A stately monumental pile, with several costumed effigies, commemorates John Robartes of Truro, d. 1614. St. George’s Church, in the west suburb, was built by Haslam in 1851. The stained glass by Warrington. St. Paul’s is also a recent erection ; and two miles east of the Tresillian inlet, stands St. Clement’s. At the vicarage is preserved the Isnioc Cross, inscribed, with the usual abbreviations, Isniocus Yitalis Filins Torrid. St. Clement was a disciple of St. Paul, and is alluded to by name in the third verse of the fourth chapter of Philippians. He was martyred by command of Trajan—an anchor having been fastened to him by a cable round his neck, he was flung into the sea. His scholars and friends then assembled, and prayed to Heaven to be allowed to recover his remains. “ Im¬ mediately,” says Kibadeneira, “ the sea retired for the space of three miles, or a league, in such sort that they could go into it for all that space as upon the dry land ; and they found it in a chapel, or little church made by the hands of angels; and within the church a chest of stone, in which was the body of St. Clement, and by it the anchor with which he had been cast into the sea. This miracle did not happen only that year in which the Holy Pope died, but it happened also every year, and the sea retired itself three miles, as was said, leaving the way dry for seven days—namely, the day of his martyrdom, and the other six following days.” An anchor is still the saint’s symbol. The Truro Grammar School has long been held in good repute. Here were educated Samuel Foote, Martyn, Polwhele, and Sir Humphrey Davy. At the Museum, in Pyder Street, of the Royal Institution of Cornwall, may be seen a good col¬ lection of fossils, some skulls of the Ceylonese, and a valuable cabinet of Cornish ornithology. The County Library dates from 1792. In the neighbourhood of Truro are the following points of interest:— 1. Polwhele (Col. Polwhele), on the road to St. Erme, the residence of Polwhele, the historian of Devon and Cornwall The old rhyme runs— Route 1 . ENVIRONS OF TRURO. 65 “ By Tre, Pol, and Pen, You may know the Cornishmen.” 2. Pencarlenich (Mrs. Vivian), 3 miles east, right of the Grampound road. 3. Pen air (Lady Barrington Reynolds) 1| mile, on the Grampound road. 4. Enys (J. Enys, Esq.), near Gluvias, 3 miles north-east of Penryn. 5. Tregolls (R. Twedy Esq.), beyond the town, eastward. 6. Kitj.iow (Rev. John Daubuz, rector of Creed), miles south-west, on the road to Penryn. 7. Killiganoon (Simmons), about 1 mile beyond Killiow, left of the road. 8. Trewarthenick (G. W. Gregor, Esq.) near Tregony, on the west bank of the Fal; a classical-looking mansion, enlarged from the designs of Harrison, stands on the crest of a considerable ascent, and rejoices in the shelter of umbrageous groves. 9. Tregothnan (Viscount Falmouth), seated upon rising ground, near the Fal river, of whose silver windings, and of the ship-studded expanse of Falmouth Harbour, it commands a de¬ lightful and extensive prospect. The gardens are beautifully ordered, and the plantations of considerable size and beauty. The mansion, designed by Wilkins, the architect of the National Gallery, exhibits a not unpleasant combination of the details of Early English and Tudor. Its square central tower forms a con¬ spicuous feature, and the roof-line is broken by numerous fantastic chimneys and quaint turrets. Among the art treasures are several of Opie’s pictures. Tregothnan passed, by marriage, from the heiress of a family of the same name, to the Boscawens of Boscawen Rose, early in the fourteenth century. In June 1720 Hugh Boscawen was created Baron Boscawen and Viscount Falmouth. An earldom was created in 1821, but expired a few years ago. Of this family came the gallant Admiral Boscawen, who was bom at Tregothnan in 1711. 10. ST. MICHAEL PENKIVEL (population, 179) stands on the left bank of the Truro, above the woods of Tregothnan. Its noble Church dates from the fourteenth century. In the tower is an ancient oratory, with an altar of stone. The brasses F G6 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . are numerous, and commemorate among others,— John Trembras, d. 1515, “ late parson of this churchand John Boscawen , d. 1564. A fine monument of marble, designed by Adams, the bust by Rysbrach, is inscribed to the memory of Admiral Bos¬ cawen. The epitaph states, that “ his birth, though noble, his titles, though illustrious, ■were but incidental additions to his greatness. History, in more expressible and more indelible characters, will inform later posterity, with what ardent zeal, with what successful valour, he served his country, and taught her enemies to dread her naval power. . . This gallant and profitable servant of his country, w T hen he was beginning to reap the harvest of Ids toils and dangers, in the full meridian of years and glory, after having been providentially preserved through every peril incident to his profession, died of a fever on the 10th of January, in the year 1761, and in the 50th of his age, at Hatcliland’s Park, in Surrey, a seat he had just finished at the expense of the enemies of his country, and amidst the groans and tears of his beloved Cornishmen, was here deposited. His once happy wife inscribes this marble, an unequal testimony of his worth and of her affection.” 11. Trelissic (Hon. Mrs. Gilbert), on the right bank of the Fal, a mansion of graceful proportions, built about 1825 from the designs of Robinson, a London architect. The portico is a reproduction of the temple of Erectheus at Athens. The sur¬ rounding scenery is of a richly diversified character, and a fine prospect of Pendennis castle and Falmouth harbour, of the groves of Trefusis, of the mighty ocean, and of distant hills whose crests are clothed in azure vapours, is enjoyable from the high ground on which Trelissic stands. East Huel Rose and Huel Garras are considerable lead mines. The latter at one time yielded a small percentage of silver. At Calenick, on the Falmouth road, there is a large tin¬ smelting house. Some pleasant landscapes enrich the village of M alp as, 2 miles south. [Hints for Rambles. —1. The favourite excursion from Truro is to the ruins of St. Piran’s Church, 9 miles, on the north coast, and thence along the coast to St. Agnes, 7 miles, returning by road to Truro, 8 miles; or to Chacewater, 5 miles, and thence by raiL—2. The railway proceeds to Falmouth via Penryn, or the tourist may go thither by loat, 12 miles, passing the richly wooded grounds of Tregothnan, left— Trelissic, right—and Trefusis, right—3. To Tregont, 6 miles, and thence to Gerrans, 7 miles; then, by way of Filley, and across the river, to Trelinick, joining the Truro road at about 4 miles from Truro. The route is a long Route 1 . THE GWENAPP MIXES. 67 one, and can only be managed on a summer day, but it embraces a vast variety of scenery.—4. A pleasant ramble maybe made through Gwennap, 6 miles, to Bed- ruth, 4 miles, and its copper mines, returning by the main road, or by rail, 8 miles. —5. Through St. Erme to St. Michael is some 6 miles. Strike southward to St. Allen, 3J miles, and return through Kenwvn into Truro, 5 miles.] BRANCH ROUTE—TRURO to FALMOUTH, 12 Miles. [By Railway or Boat.] At 4 miles from Truro we cross the railway which connects the little port of Devoran (on the shore of the Restronquet Creek) with the mines of Redruth, and diverge for a while to GWENNAP (population, 8397), famous for its almost inexhaust¬ ible mineral wealth. Between the village and ST. DAY (popu¬ lation, 3907) are the Consolidated and United Mines, the most important of all the Cornish copper mines, occupying a superficial area 2| miles in length, worked at a depth of 1750 feet below the surface, and branching out, in a thousand levels or galleries, to an extent of 63 miles. The annual value of the ore produced may be estimated at £] 50,000—the expenses at £105,000. The United Mines Re close at hand, and both con¬ cerns employ sixteen or seventeen steam engines, besides a whole group of water-wheels and stamping-w r heels. If the tourist kept further to the westward he would reach, within a mile or so of Redruth, the lofty height of Carn Marth, 757 feet above the sea Here, in an excavation caUed Gwennap Pit, the Great Wesley proclaimed the word of God to the miners. The change he effected was remarkable, and its results are still to be acknowledged — the Cornish miners being now distin¬ guished by their sobriety and prudence. In 1860 there were 19,723 Wesleyans in CornwaU. Returning from our digression, we pass the pleasant grounds of Pengreep (J. Williams, Esq.), and, turning to the left, keep down, through a wooded but rocky defile, to the shores of Restronguet Creek, winch here receives the Kennal, a small stream rising on the slope of Carn Mendez, and supplying motive power to forty water wheels in a course of less than 6 miles. PERRAN ARWORTHAL or Perran Wharf (population, 1493), a small but picturesque village, occupying the bottom of a shady hollow, has a Rttle quaint Church, dedicated to St. Piran, and a 68 BRANCH ROUTE-TRURO TO FALMOUTH. Route 1 well, also dedicated to St. Piran, and a large iron-foundry, and a small fishing and boating trade, and a noble view of the glorious woods of Carclew, the seat of Col. Tremayne, who succeeded bis uncle the late Sir Charles Lemon, Bart. We continue our route in a southerly direction to Gluvias, from whence we propose to visit Mylor and Flushing, and to return along the bank of a fine inlet, the King’s Road, to Penryn. ST. GLUVIAS (population, 4785) boasts of a pretty Church, well surrounded with venerable trees, and looking towards the hill-slope, where clusters the town of Penryn. Observe the brass to Thomas Killigrew, d. 1484, and his two wives. At Bohechtand, in this parish, occurred the terrible incident which suggested to Lillo his tragedy of “ The Fatal Curiosity.” The youngest son of a fanner who resided here, temp. James I.— he is called Wilmot in the play—went to sea in a privateer, and after many adventures and perilous escapes, amassed considerable wealth. Returning home, he resolved to surprise his parents with a sudden display of his riches, but not to reveal his name until a sister arrived to whom he was deeply attached, and to whom he had already announced his return. He was received by his parents as a stranger, and their cupidity being inflamed by the sight of his gold and gems, they resolved to murder him. When the morning came his sister arrived, and asked for the guest. The murderers denied all knowledge of him. “But he was my brother—your son—your beloved one,” cried the girl, and the horror-stricken parents rushed to examine the bleeding corpse. They immediately recognized it, by a scar, as that of their own child, and in their agony attempted to expiate their crime by slaying themselves. MYLOR (population, 2391) takes its name from a Cornish prince. It stands upon Mylor Pool, a small but secure inlet which winds upward amid the woods. The Church is in the late Perpendicular style—the steeple detached from the body of the building—and contains a monument and effigy to one of the Trefusis family, and a brass to T. Killigrew , d. 1500. The south doorway has a Norman arch and moulding. FLUSHING (population, 896) is a small village, with a southward aspect, seated on the bank of a pleasant creek which Route 1 PENRYN-FALMOUTH. 69 shelters it from Falmouth. It is noted for its warm and genial climate. PENRYN (population, 3463, Inns: King’s Arms, and Elephant and Castle)— i.e., a projecting hill—straggles down a hill-slope towards the head of an inlet of Falmouth Harbour, of which and of the surrounding heights it enjoys a beautiful prospect—varying in its details as seen in the gray morning light or the purple glory of the evening, but always possessing a wonderful and almost magical aerial charm. The soil around is rich and fertile, and the hill is therefore covered with blossomy orchards and prolific gardens. The church of St. Glorias almost faces the one long street of which the ancient borough is composed, and the bright waters of the King’s Road flash with rare lustre through the embowering groves. On the Mabe Road, 5 miles south-west, there formerly stood the Tolmen, or Holed Stone, on a bleak bare steep, 690 feet above the sea. This interesting memorial was 33 feet long, 14 feet deep, and 18 feet broad. It rested upon two deeply embedded stones in such a manner that a man might crawl under it, and a superstition long prevailed that persons so crawling, upon certain holy days, would obtain instant relief from their maladies. It was blown up a few years ago by the owner of the neighbouring quarry. There are numerous quarries in this district—chiefly on the Helstone road—producing a granite held in high estimation by English builders. The London and Chatham docks, Waterloo Bridge, and the Waterloo monument, were constructed with this stone. Penryn is 8^ miles from Truro, 264 miles from London, and, in conjunction with Falmouth, returns two members to Parliament. A collegiate church was founded here, in 1270, by Bronescomb, Bishop of Exeter. About 2 miles beyond we reach FALMOUTH. [Population, 4373. — Inns: Falmouth Hotel near the station; Green Bank, facing sea at head of harbour ; Albion, facing sea ; The Royal, in the town. 272 m. from London ; 11 m. from Helston ; and 23 m. from Penzance. Coach daily to Helston and Penzauce.] 70 BRANCH ROUTE-TRURO TO FALMOUTH. Amite 1. Sir "Walter Raleigh, returning from his voyage to Guiana, was the first to perceive the natural advantages of Falmouth Harbour, and to press them upon Queen Elizabeth’s notice. At that time scarce a dozen fishermen’s huts nestled upon its luxuriantly- wooded shore, and these were known by the name of Smithike, or Smith’s Wic, from a smithery around which they clustered. After Sir Walter Raleigh had drawn attention to the excellencies of its position, the village gradually throve, and assumed the name of “ Penny-come-quick”—evidently a corruption of the Cornish Pen-coomb-ick, “ the village in the hollow of the hill”— hut accounted for by Whitaker in a more humorous if less satisfactory manner :—“ A certain person building a little house [which is still shewn near the New Quay, opposite to Flushing], a female servant of Mr. Pendarvis came and dwelt in it, upon which that gentleman hid her brew a little ale, and on such a day he promised to come with some gentlemen, and help her to some money by dr inkin g it up.” On the day appointed, how¬ ever, a Dutch galliot entered the harbour, and its thirsty crew soon found the brewage, and drank it up. "When Mr. Pendarvis and his friends made their appearance, and found no ale, they expressed their disappointment, whereupon the ale-wife excused herself thus cogently :—“ Truly, master, the Penny come so quick, I could not deny them.” The village soon grew into a town, despite of the hitter hostility of the inhabitants of Truro, Penryn, and Helston, and in Charles II.’s reign it was duly incorporated by the name of Falmouth. The privileges of a ferry between the town and Flushing, of a weekly market and two annual fairs, were granted to it, and in 1664 it was separated from the parish of St. Budock, and constituted an independent parish. Its prosperity was further increased by its being selected as a packet-station in 1680 ; and though the foreign steamers now start from other ports, it maintains a steam communication with London, Liverpool, Dublin, Penzance, Plymouth, and Southampton. About 600 ships of 30,000 tons belong to the port. The population decreased from 4953 in 1851, to 4373 in 1881—a falling off of about 12 per cent in thirty years. “ It contains,” as Byron says, “ many Quakers and much salt fish imports fruits, oil, and other produce from the Mediterranean ; hut is chiefly dependent for support upon the shipping attached to its unrivalled harbour. There is little within its limits to interest the tourist or delight Route 1 . FALMOUTH HARBOUR 71 the topographical antiquary. Its Churot, dedicated to King Charles “ the martyr,” and distinguished by a lofty tower, was erected previous to 1660. The Quay was constructed in the same year by Sir Peter Killigrew, of Arwenack. In the Hall of the Royal Cornwall Polytechnic Society, the first established (1833) in England, and placed under the special patronage of the Queen, are many busts of eminent savants and some portraits of illustrious indivi¬ duals, interesting from their subjects rather than their artistic merit. The principal Seats in the neighbourhood are— Grove Hill (G. T. Fox, Esq.), where there is a notable collection of specimens of Titian, Poussin, Claude, Leonardo da Vinci, Caracci, and Titian. Tregedna (J. Fox, Esq.) is enriched in a similar manner ; and Gyllyngdune (Rev. W. J. Coope)— i. e., William’s Hill— commanding a noble prospect of the harbour, and the gleaming channel beyond it. At Gyllanvaes —William’s Grave—at the bottom of the hill, was buried, it is said, Prince William, son of Henry I., who with his brother and sister, and several Norman nobles, was wrecked in the Blanche Nef, off Barfleur, December 1130. FALMOUTH HARBOUR is formed by the junction of the Fal and several smaller streams with the sea, and extends four miles in length by one in breadth. Its average depth is 15 fathoms, and it can accommodate with perfect security 500 sail at one time. It sends up into the woodlands which enclose it, numerous little creeks of varying dimensions, so that the tourist, in his rambles, whenever he descends into the valleys, comes upon a bright breadth of water glancing and shimmering among the hanging groves. Its entrance lies between two bold head¬ lands—the one on the east defended by St. Mawes fort, and that on the west by Pendennis Castle. Whitaker asserts that it was known to Ptolemy as “the mouth of the Cenia” (the Fal, then so called), and actually having upon it the ancient town Cenia, the present Tregony. Leland speaks of it as “ notable and famous, and, in a manner, the principal haven of all Britain.” It is divided into two harbours by a bar of sand, on which, at ebb tide, there is only 6 feet of water. The principal division is called Carrick Roads, and extends nearly 5 miles in a direct line 72 EXCURSION TO THE LIZARD. Route 1. EXCURSION from FALMOUTH to the LIZARD POINT. By Sea. Although this excursion when taken by sea gives a much more extensive view of the coast, it is in most cases gone by land, and in that case the tourist will make for Helston (p. 7 8), from which he can readily visit the Lizard (8 miles) either on foot or by car. The'pedestrian can also take the more direct route vid Helford Passage, across which there is a ferry. A more delightful sail than that which we now propose, is not offered from any point of the Cornish coast. The trip may with advantage be extended to Penzance, or even to St. Ives, including a view of the Land’s End, Whitesand Bay, and Cape Cornwall ; but a summer-day will suffice for the shorter voyage, and a fine variety of scenery still be enjoyed. Let us start from the head of Carrick Roads, where the Fal pours its bright waters through banks clothed in luxuriant ver¬ dure, and the groves of Trelissic rise with many a wonderful effect of light and shade all up the sides of the swelling hill s. Yonder bow T ery headland is Trefusis Point, where, in 1814, the Queen transport, carrying invalids from the Peninsula, was cast ashore in a terrible storm, and 195 lives were lost. Numerous memorials of this fearful wreck throng the churchyards of the neighbouring villages. On the right shore, as we descend, may be seen Mylor Creek, studded with little craft. A weather-beaten church peeps out among the foliage on its southern bank. On the left stands ST. JUST (population, 1491), upon a small and sheltered cove— the churchyard echoing with the ripple of the waters. Here is the Lazaretto station, and St. Just’s Pool —the anchorage for vessels in quarantine. The village of Flushing ; the broad ex¬ panse of Falmouth Harbour proper; and the houses of the busy town clustering upon the shore, and winding up the acclivity beyond, next rise upon the view ; and then, turning to the left, we come in sight of ST. MAWES (population, 1003), almost at the mouth of a considerable creek, which runs inland, in a northerly direction, for about 3 miles. We then arrive at St. Anthony’s Head, distinguishable by its lighthouse. Inland stands the small church of ST. ANTHONY (population, 115), partly Norman, and partly Early English, and containing a fine monu- Route 1 . PENDENNIS CASTLE. 73 ment by Westmacott to Admiral Sir Richard Spry. Place House (Sir S. Spry, Bart.), close at hand, occupies the site of an Augustinian Priory, founded in 1124 by Bishop Warlewast, and dedicated to “ good St. Anthony.” The opposite headland is crowned by Pendennis Castle. In the middle of the channel, which is nearly one mile wide, lies the Black Rock, covered by the tide, but its position is indicated by a permanent beacon. And now, while we sweep out of the harbour, and turn our prow to the west, we may collect a few notes in relation to the strongholds at Pendennis and St. Mawes. Pendennis Castle occupies the crest of a bold abrupt steep, 200 feet above the sea, and includes fourteen acres within its walls. Its nucleus is the round tower of Henry VIII.’s—the residence of the governor—enlarged and repaired in Queen Elizabeth’s reign. Bastions, ravelins, curtains, batteries, frown on every side, so that, to an inexperienced eye, at least, it appears a fortification of great strength. The Duke of Hamilton was a prisoner here in 1644-5 ; Henrietta Maria took refuge in it in 1644, on her voyage to France ; and in the latter year it was visited by Prince Charles (Charles H.) who sailed from hence to the Scilly Islands. The siege which has made it historically famous took place in 1646. Admiral Batten attacked it by sea, and Colonel Fortescue by land, but its stout old governor, Sir John Arundel, of Trerice, held out for several months, until com¬ pelled by famine to surrender. The conditions granted by the besiegers were honourable to the brave royalist; the stanch and vigorous cavalier, then in his 8 7 th year:—“ That all fortifications, arms, ammunition, ships, and vessels lying under the Castle be given up, but what is excepted after. That the governor, his family, and retinue, and all officers and soldiers of horse and foot, all gentlemen, clergymen, their families and servants, march out with their horses, arms, and all marks of honour, to Anvinch Downs ; and because His Majesty has no army or garrison in England, they shall there lay down their arms (saving their swords), and as many as will, have passes to their dwellings beyond sea.” In 1647, an attempt was made by some of the officers of the garrison to betray the Castle to the king’s party, but the plot was detected, and the traitors punished. St. Mawes Castle is situated on a romantic headland, north of St. Mawes Harbour, and close to the town of ST. MAWES 74 EXCURSION TO THE LIZARD. Route 1 (population, 1003). It was built by order of Henry VHI. about 1541, under the superintendence of a Mr. Treffrv of Fowey. The central tower is surrounded by circular bastions. Both St. Mawes and Pendennis have recently been strongly fortified. Having rounded the headland of Pendennis, we sweep at once into the rock-bound haven of Swan Pool, separated from the shore by a formidable sand-bar. A raised beach, 9 to 12 feet high, and the variegated grauwacke formation of the cliffs may here interest the geologist. We now enter Falmouth Bat, hounded to the south by Rosemullion Head, and pass the mouth of the wide estuary of Helford River, the conflux of numerous streams which cross the country in every direction, and the resort, in the seventeenth century, of several bands of piratical desperadoes. The entrance is commanded by two British camps, the Great and Little Dinas, garrisoned in the Civil War, and captured by the Parliamentary troops. At the head of the creek which opens into the land bevond Little Dinas, stands ST. ANTHONY IN MENEAGE (population, 239)— i.e., in the stony soil—a church dedicated to St. Anthony by some Norman barons, in acknowledg¬ ment of his interposition on their behalf in a fearful storm, when he guided their wind-tossed barque into this sheltered inlet. The village adjoining, MANACCAN, the stony creek (population,’436), was at one time the residence of the antiquary Polwhele, rector of the parish and of St. Anthony in Meneage. Titanium was found here by the Rev. Mr. Gregor, who gave it, at first, the name of Menachanite. It was discovered by Klaproth in 1794, and first investigated by Wollaston, in 1822. Inland lies MAWGAN IN MENEAGE (population, 853). Its Church ia one of great antiquity, and from the effigies and monuments it contains, of unusual interest. Near the village is the embattled mansion of Trelowarren (Sir R. Vyvyan, Baronet), the seat of the Vyvyan family from the reign of Edward IV. The present building was erected early in the seventeenth century. A small but graceful chapel is attached to it, and the grounds and plan¬ tations are extensive and beautiful. The Nase Point is next passed : a curious cave may be here examined. The cliffs from hence to the Lizard, though not of lofty elevation, are geologically remarkable. They are chiefly formed of serpentine, glittering with a thousand rich hues and shifting colours, and presenting at various points streaks of horn- Route 1 . THE COAST. 75 blende, and diallage, felspar, slate, and schistose greenstone Inland, the country is cursed with a perpetual barrenness, save one small district near the Lizard, where the decomposition of mica, slate, felspar, and hornblende has wonderfully fertilised the soil. Passing Drauna Point we come in sight of St. Keverne, seated upon a steep hill; Keverne, where glorious Charles Incledon, the vocalist, was born; and steer between the shore and the Manacles rocks on our way into the romantic recess of Coverack Cove. There is here a small pier, and a rippling stream, and above the quiet little cliff-defended village rises the shadow of Crousa Down, its summit crowned by huge frag¬ ments of diallage, strangely named the Brothers of Grugith. In the neighbourhood are found many rare varieties of ericas, the autumnal squill, tamarix gallica, genista pilosa, and several kinds of fuci and geraniums. The cliffs (of serpentine) now assume a greenish hue, and are pierced with fantastic caverns ( hugos , Cornish), and basaltic grottoes, riven with jagged fissures and appalling chasms. Here blooms the beautiful white heath, erica vagans, remarkable for growing only on serpentine. Very lonely and somewhat desolate is this long line of coast, against whose formidable ramparts the long fierce swell of the Atlantic rolls. After rounding Black Head, a bold projection of the serpen¬ tine, we observe that the coast trends away suddenly to the west¬ ward, and the sandy shore recedes into the sheltered depths of Kennack Cove. The coast again turns to the south, and we pass Caluon Cove, and the rock-heaped point of Innis Head. Inland lies the village of RUAN MINOR (population, 286),with the gray old Early English baptistery and clear crystal spring of St. Rdan’s Well ; and beyond lies GRADE (population, 318), its Church, an ancient pile of mossy stones ; and Erisey House, a Tudor building, dating from 1620. CADGWITH (in Ruan Minor parish), is a large “fischar village”— (Inn: The Star)—lying at the mouth of a romantic dell. It boasts of its admirably beautiful situation, and the wonderful amphitheatrical hollow of The Devil’s Pit, two acres in superficial area, and 200 feet deep, into which, at high tide, the sea-waters foam and rattle through a natural arched entrance. We sweep along a rocky and cavernous coast without further pause, past the lofty headland of Penolver and the picturesque bay of Househole, to the Lion’s Den, a singular excavation in the 76 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 , stone, 70 feet deep, and 100 feet in circuit, effected by the gradual action of the sea within the last few years. Here too, is the cavern of Daw’s Hugo, and the pillar rock of the Bumble. THE LIZARD. And now we have reached the southern extremity of Old England—the famous Lizard Point —distinguished by its light¬ houses, built in 1792 by Founereau, and its precipitous eleva¬ tion, 186 feet above the level of the unresting waters. (. Hotels: at Lizard Town, Skew’s and Hill’s.) Here a guide may be obtained for a ramble along the coast. The soil, inland, is formed by the decomposition of talc, hornblende, and felspar, and is of extraordinary richness, yielding a wonderful growth of the finest barley. At LANDEWEDNACK (population 460), the Church has Norman portions, and it is remarkable as the place where was delivered the last sermon preached in the Cornish language. South-east of the village, on the cliff, is the Amphitheatre of Belldden, a pile of turf-covered terraces, supposed to have been a Druidic temple. A little beyond it is a rock called The Chair, which commands a fine view of the picturesque coast and the far-sweeping sea. (See also page 95.) Here we conclude our coast route, and returning to Falmouth and Truro, resume once more our exploration of Cornwall by means of the West Cornwall Railway. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—TRURO to REDRUTH. We now enter the very heart of the Cornish mining-district, and on each side of us the roar of steam and the clink of hammers tell of unceasing labour. Carvedras, Calenick, Carnbrea, Tin Crop Stray Park,—quarries and tin mines—shafts, stages of timber, and seething engines—these cover the earth with their evidences of mineral wealth and human enterprise. At first, we are carried through a deep cutting; from which we speedily emerge upon some steep embankment, or descend a formidable incline, or cross a narrow valley on a substantial viaduct. Neither at CHACE- WATER (population, 3648), a miners’ settlement of little beauty, nor at SCORRIER GATE, near Scorrier House (J. Willyams, Esq.), is it necessary for the tourist to pause, but at Redruth he must be fain to content himself with a day or two’s delay. We run along a lofty viaduct of timber into the town Tre vhJuje~' 'founder. i liurrt rbarUn WhtJU \nitrv. Jfavl, Kitnl/i Kuan Mar *>v "roved, I Sunny Comer M- Hernu Windmill ' (\uiunith Kyiumee \l)oL>r lhuu jfiwa > ■ / - [he Morse Trethe i < T,.U> B Bellas AsptllllffUAl.lQ RiU Head ’Granitic Pci iritwednaH Tr.ifomijd^n 1‘enrrnth\’ 'rthUlian Beast V Quadrant. < I. 17 .A 1 U) UKAD Mubrin H . Bumble Wur Rock: < arli 4 /./, Moenheert J. B.n1h.iLnne*. E.lbi 1 A. & C. Black, Etthibur^li Route 1 . REDRUTH. 77 REDRUTH (Inn : Tabb’s Hotel. Population of the muni¬ cipal borough, 9335. Market-day ; Friday) is 9 miles from Truro, 18| miles from Penzance, and 263 miles from London: — a busy but dirty town, of one long street stretching out minor branches on every side, and flinging its arms, in the shape of dusty highways, into the quarries and mines which cover the surrounding district. Of these the most important are— The Consols, and United Copper Mines, near Gwennap. Tresavean, a copper mine, 1800 feet deep ; 2^ miles south. Dolcoath, a copper-mine, on a hiU to the west, upwards of 1500 feet in depth. Huel Buller, Huel Basset, Huel Seton, Huel Francis, Carnbrea, copper-mines of considerable importance, lying to the north and north-east, in the ever-busy parish of ILLOGAX. Castle Carnbrea is 740 feet high, and its summit is crowned with the remains of an ancient camp, and a memorial pillar to the late Lord Dunstanville. Carvedras, Calenick, tin smelting houses. East Huel Rose, Garras Huel, lead mines near Truro. By some antiquaries the name Redruth has been derived from Tre-druith, the “ Druids’ town and an argument in favour of its extreme antiquity has been founded upon this fanciful etymo¬ logy ; but it is more probable that Tre-trot, “ the place on or near the river-bed,” furnishes the correct interpretation. Its Church, dedicated to St. Uny, and dating only from 1761, is situated under Carnbrea Hill, at a mile or so from the town. It contains a monument to William Davey, from the chisel of Chantrey. BRANCH ROUTE—REDRUTH to HELSTON, 12 Miles. The road will furnish little amusement to the tourist, until, at about 6 miles from Redruth, he turns aside to CROWAN (population, 3464), where a fine old Early English Church con¬ tains some memorials of the knightly St. Aubyns, and Crowan Beacon raises its head 250 feet above the sea-level, and the Men-amber, or altar-stone of the Druids, hurled from its resting- place on a mass of rocks by some Rormdhead troopers, moulders among the crisp herbage. At WENDRON (population, 5818), on the Looe river, we enter a fair sweet vale, brightened by foliage. 78 BRANCH ROUTE—REDRUTH TO HELSTON. Route 1. and rendered musical by running waters, through which we may ramble, “ in measureless content,” until we come upon the hill¬ side where HELSTON (population 3432. Inns: the Angel, and the Star. Market-days: Wednesday and Saturday) reposes, 12 miles from Truro, 272 miles from London. The country again slopes into a pleasant valley, which the broadening stream of the Looe enlivens and enriches, while, on either side of the valley, stretch broad tracts of open wilds, whose sole beauty is derived from their luxuriant overgrowth of purple heath. A wild legend accounts for the origin of the name — Helston. A mass of granite was for many years to be seen in the rear of the Angel Inn (but now only to be examined in portions of the walls of the Assembly Room), which, it is said, had served the purpose of blocking up the entrance into Hades, until Satan, some¬ what inconsiderately, bore it with him on one of his numerous progresses through Cornwall, playing with it, we presume, as a boy does with a ball. It was his ill fortune, however, to come across St. Michael in his wanderings. A desperate “ combat of two ” took place, in which Satan was defeated, and, taking to flight, he flung away his plaything that it might not embarass his move¬ ments. Hells Stone fell where Helston now sends up “ its columns of wreathed smoke,” and its inhabitants, having wit¬ nessed with fear and wonder the terrible combat, instituted in remembrance thereof the festival of the Furry Bay , still annually celebrated on the 8th of May. Furry Day, however, as Polwhele shews, means simply “ a fair,” or “ holiday” (fuir, Cornish), and possibly commemorates some victory which the Britons gained over their enemies the Saxons. The townsmen proceed into the surrounding meadows, gather hawthorn boughs and garlands, and conclude the day by a house-to-house visitation, dancing merrily enough to an immemo¬ rial tune, played by a Helston orchestra. The song they sing would seem to refer to the defeat of the Spanish Armada :— 11 Robin Hood and Little John They both are gone to the fair, And we ’ll away to the merry greenwood, To see what they do there. For we were up as soon as day To fetch the summer nome, The summer and the May, oh I For the summer now is come. Route 1 . HEL8T0N. 79 Where are those Spaniards That made so great a boast, They shall eat the grey-goose feather, And we will eat the roast.” The churl who neglects to comply with these time-honoured customs is summarily ducked in the neighbouring hei/l or marsh, from which the town in reality takes its name. A Castle was erected at Helston shortly after the Conquest, which fell into ruin about the time of Edward IV. It also pos¬ sessed a Priory, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, of which the most persevering antiquary would now be puzzled to find any vestige. The town is large and populous, consisting in the main of four streets intersecting each other at right angles, and watered by a limpid brook. Queen Elizabeth incorporated it in the twenty-seventh of her reign, and placed it under the control of a mayor, four aldermen, and twenty-four “ assistants.” From King John it received a notable privilege,—its inhabitants were ex¬ empted from paying toll in any place but the city of London, and from being impleaded anywhere but in their own borough. At the junction of its four main streets stands the Market House. The Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and built by Earl Godolpliin in 1763, of white moorstone, had a steeple 90 feet high. At the foot of the main street, near the bowling-green, is a triumphal arch, erected by public subscription to the memory of Humphrey Millet Gryll, 1834, an eminent miner. The chief point of interest in the neighbourhood is the Loo Pool, a broad, still, duck-frequented sheet of water, about 7 miles in circumference, principally formed by the serpent-like Cober, and separated from the sea by a narrow bar of pebbles, on which, in 1807, the Arnoti, a 40-gun ship, was wrecked, with a loss of 60 lives. The lake abounds in trout, and its tranquillity affords a remarkable contrast to the restless waters of the Channel, which foam and fret beyond the bar. After the heavy winter rains this lake or pool swells to extra¬ ordinary dimensions, and impedes the operations of the numerous mills supplied by the water-courses which ripple into it. The corporation of Helston, on these occasions, presents the lord of the manor with two leathern purses, each containing three half¬ pence, and solicits permission to cut through the bar. The permission is, of course, readily accorded ; a trench is easily dug through the narrow pebbly barrier; and away sweep the land- 80 13RANCH ROUTE-REDRUTH TO HELSTON. Boilte 1. born waters in a seething roaring torrent, to mingle, after a temporary commotion, with the upheaving sea ! The spectacle is admitted to be one of unusual grandeur. Tregeagle—the great Cornish “ bughear”—is said to have formed this curious ocean-wall—this natural breakwater—which so strangely divides the fresh inland waters from the briny Channel. The legend rims as follows :—Tregeagle had embezzled a sum of money paid by one of the tenants of Tregeagle’s master. No entry being made in his books, the landlord, after his steward’s death, summoned the tenant for his rent. He pleaded previous payment, and by the aid of a potent magician brought into court, as his witness, Tregeagle’s shade, who confessed the fault he had committed while in the flesh. The tenant consequently gained his cause. But now a serious difficulty arose. Tregeagle in the spirit was no ordinary witness, and no one knew how to dismiss him or in what manner to get rid of him. At last it was suggested that the only way of escaping from the dilemma was to provide the shadow with a task that should be endless. He was ordered, therefore, to clear one of the coves on the coast of all its sand—an impossible achievement, because the sea returned the sand a3 fast as Treg¬ eagle removed it. While thus engaged he accidentally let fall a sackful near the mouth of the Cober, and formed the barrier which even to this day pents up the gathering waters of the Loo. In the immediate vicinity of the Pool two pleasant seats are placed :— Naushoe House (— Robinson, Esq.), and Penrose (Mrs. Rogers), and several farms occupy the neighbouring slopes. From Helston to the Lizard Point * is about 12 miles ; and a stout pedestrian may accomplish the excursion there and back in the summer, and, passing the night at Helston, return the next morning to Penzance, Truro, or Falmouth. The country around the Lizard is bleak and chiefly moorland. Half a mile from the point is Lizard Town—where a hotel and lodgings wiR be found. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED—REDRUTH to PENZANCE. After leaving Redruth we sweep across one of the numerous viaducts by which the Cornwall railway is distinguished, and speedily accomplishing a three miles’ run, pass, on our right, the pleasant village of TUCKINGMILL (population, 4108) with its * Coach from Helstone to Lizard, 2 hours; to Penzance, 2J hours. Route 1 . CAM BOR X E-H AYLE 81 modem Norman Church of porphyry, erected by the late Lady Basset at a cost of ,£3000. The mines of Cook’s Kitchen and Dolcoath are successively left behind, and we pause for awhile at CAMBORNE (population, 7500. Inn: the Commercial), which, as a town, has made a wonderful progress since the rapid develop nient of the Cornish mining-system, but possesses little to attract the attention of the general tourist. A curious memorial-stone is now affixed to the outside wall of its Church (a large Per¬ pendicular building of granite). The inscription runs :—“ Leniut [Cornish for a “mariner”] jusit hoec altare pro anima.” The pidpit is enriched with numerous carvings, chiefly emblematic of the crucifixion ; the font is Norman, with sculptured lions crouching at the base. The capitals of the columns which sepa¬ rate the nave from the aisles, are decorated with rudely-wrought foliage. An altar-piece, of Sienna marble, was erected in 1761. [From this point the tourist may conveniently visit Pendarves, a modern mansion of granite, in a well - wooded park, which contains a good but small picture-gallery, and a collection of minerals. A church, occupying the site of an ancient oratory, school-houses, a parsonage, and other buildings, erected in 184:2, mainly through the liberality and perseverance of the late Mr. Pendarves, form an attractive assemblage on the higher ground of the park. Clowance (seat of the St. Aubyn’s) is 3 miles farther south. The grounds are 5 miles in circumference, and enriched with vigorous woods and blossomy gardens. The house is a modern and substantial structure of stone, commanding some good woodland prospects, and views beyond of a range of mighty hills. The picture- gallery comprises specimens of the Dutch and English schools. To the north of Camborne extends a wild and romantic country, bounded by the waters of the Atlantic, which we shall traverse in a later route.] The next station is at Gwinnear Road, miles, from which Pendarves and Clowance may also be visited. Tin* remarkable scenery of Godrevery Island, 4 miles north, can be explored from this point. Three miles further, and we stop at HAYLE (population. 1089. Inns : White Hart, and Commercial), on the east bank of a considerable iidet, which rims up from St. Ives Bay. At high water the sea overflows an extensive tract, and assumes the proportions of a noble bay ; but when the tide recedes a dreary waste of sand spreads before you, which, in places, is dangerous to the foot-traveller. The port itself is kept free of sand by the waters of Phillack Creek, which are poured into it by a sun pie contrivance, and a sufficient depth is maintained G 82 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . admit of the entrance of vessels of 200 tons. A dirtier, squalider, less interesting town than Hayle is not to he found in all Cornwall. Its population is composed of fishermen and miners, of labourers in its two iron foundries or tin smelting-works, and railway em¬ ployees, and its only claim to consideration is its position with respect to some magnificent coast scenery. But this may almost as easily be visited from Redruth or St. Ives—the latter a beautifully situated town, the Capua of Cornwall—and there¬ fore we recommend the tourist to imitate our own course of action—leave Hayle as quickly as he enters it! St. Ives lies about 4 miles north-west of the St. Ives Road and Hayle Stations. ST. IVES s (population, 3036. Inns: Tregenna Castle Hotel; The Western Hotel. Market-days : Wednesday and Saturday) is 280 m. from London, 15 m. from Redruth, 23 m. from Truro, and 9 m. from Penzance. Its ancient appellation, Porth Ia, perpetuates the memory of St. Ia, an Irish virgin, who accom¬ panied St. Piran on his missionary adventure in Cornwall. They landed, it is said, about 460 a.d., at Pendinas, where Dinan, a noble of King TewdoPs court, built a church at St. la’s solicita¬ tion, and where, in due time, the saintly maiden was interred. The position of St. Ives, on the west slope of an extensive bay, with the blue waters of the deep flashing against the distant horizon, with sand-hills, or towans, relieving the monotony of the shore, with lofty hills towering southward, from whose summit may be seen both the Bristol and the English Channels, is one of picturesque and uncommon beauty; and it is to be regretted that the favourable impression which at first the tourist neces¬ sarily forms, should to some extent be dissipated on his entrance into the town by its immunity from perfect cleanliness. The streets are narrow and crooked ; the houses and shops old and somewhat mean-looking ; while everywhere an impression of fish pervades the atmosphere. The Quay, which, in the pilchard¬ fishing season (July to October), presents a lively spectacle, was constructed by Smeaton in 1770. The Church was begun in the reign of Henry V., and completed in that of Henry VI. It has a tower 120 feet high, a chancel, nave, and north and south aisles. The sea-waters wash its substantial churchyard-wall. It contains a Norman font, like that of Camborne, and, it is said, the sacred bones of St. Ia. Route 1. ST. IVES-MARAZION. 83 [The mines in the vicinity are: —Hcel Alfred, lead; Hcel Herland, lead and silver; St. Ives Consols, an important tin mine. ] St. Ives was incorporated (mayor, four aldermen, and twelve councillors) in 1639, through the perseverance of Sir Francis Basset of Tehidy, then M.P. for the borough, who presented the silver-gilt “ loving-cup,” still the ornament of the municipal board at the corporation festivals. A lofty hill, south of the town, lifts up a pyramid of granite in memory of one John Kerill, a barrister, who erected it during his lifetime (in 1782), and inscribed on its three sides three different legends:—“Johannes Kerill, 1782;” “I know that my Redeemer liveth “ Resurgam.” He died in 1791, be¬ queathing an estate to trustees for the purpose of encouraging the pursuits of racing, rowing, and wrestling, by holding public games around his monument every fifth year. A band of four matrons and ten virgins dressed in white, accompanied by musicians, walk in pairs to the summit of the hill, dance a merry measure, and finally chant a psalm, “ in imitation of Druids around the cromlechs of the departed brave.” Then the mayor of St. Ives appears in his official robes, and wrestling, and racing, and rowing, are duly accomplished by athletic com¬ petitors, who receive appropriate rewards. Of the neighbourhood of St. Ives we shall have to speak in a later route. The railroad now strikes across the narrow peninsula that separates St. Ives Bay * from St. Mount’s Bay, and touches upon the southern coast at MARAZION (pop. 1267 ; Godolphin Arms Hotel), or Market Jew— a name which has been variously interpreted as derived from Mara-Zion, the “ bitter Zion,” an appellation given to it by its earliest colonists, the Jews ; and from Marghasion , or Marghasjewe , the “ Island Mart,” Market-Jew, by which it is locally known, evidently refers to its Hebrew inhabitants ; and some of the old smelting-houses which remain in its vicinity are still called Jews’ Houses. The town was formerly a consider¬ able one, but after its losses from a French attack in Henry VIll.’s reign, and the ravages inflicted upon it in 1549 by the Cornish insurgents under Humphrey Arundel, of Lalierne, gave place to * Here, as Pennant was informed by Borlase, 245,000,000 pilcliardi were netted in one haul, in October 1707. 84 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 Penzance, and has never since recovered its importance. Plea¬ santly situated on the inner shore of Mount’s Bay, it overlooks a wide and beautiful expanse of waters, terminated eastward by the Lizard Point, and westward by the Rundlestone, and commands a glorious prospect of “ the guarded mount,” St. Michael’s stupendous peak of rugged greenstone. The legend was that a mighty forest originally enclosed it,— “ a very thick wood, distant from the ocean 6 miles, affording the safest shelter possible to wild beasts.” To this wild um¬ brageous tract the Britons, according to some authorities, gave the name of Lyonness, and placed here the great battle between King Arthur and his enemies. The Cornish call the Mount Caraclowse in Cowse, the Gray rock in the Wood. From an early period it assumed a sacred character. To an anchorite who had fixed here his solitary dwelling, St. Michael himself appeared,—hence Milton’s allusion : “ Where the great -vision of the guarded mount, Looks towards Namanco’s and Bayona’s hold.” and St. Keyne, in the fifth century, journeyed hither from Ire¬ land (a.d. 490). Some rude defences protected its steep at a very early date, for in Edward the Confessor’s charter, in 1047, to the Benedictine monks, whom he settled here, he expressly grants its castella and other buildings. After the Conquest the Gilber- tines took the place of the Benedictines, and their cell was attached by Robert Earl of Cornwall to the abbey of St. Michael^ on St. Michael’s Mount, off the coast of Normandy. As an alien religious house it was confiscated by Edward III. in his war with France, and afterwards bestowed upon Sion Nunnery, in Middle¬ sex. When suppressed in 1533, its site and revenues, then valued at £110 :12s. per annum, were granted to Humphrey Arundell of Laherne, who forfeited them in 1549, through his share in the Cornish religious war. In Charles the Second’s reign the estate was purchased of the Basset family by the St. Aubyns, who remain its owners. So much, then, for its religious history. But long before there were Saxon hermits or Saxon monks, St. Michael’s Mount was a place of high repute. It is considered by some antiqua¬ ries to be the Ocrinum of Ptolemy, and disputes with the Isle of Wight the honour of being the Jy.rig of Diodorus Siculus—the great tin-mart of antiquity—whither the tin, when refined and /lout e 1 . MARAZION. 85 cast into ingots by tbe Britons, was carried in carts, “at low tide, all being dry between them and the Island.” A formidable —to us it appears an insuperable—objection to this theory may here be briefly stated: that in the time of the Romans, the tract between St. Michael's and what is now the mainland was a dense and vigorous forest, as already shewn, and the inroad of the sea, which has insulated the solitary hill, did not take place until 1099 —(Saxon Chronicle). During the absence of Richard I. in Palestine, one Henry de Pomeroy having murdered a king’s messenger, fled hither, dis¬ possessed the monks, and held the hill on behalf of John Sans- terre. But on Cocur de Lion’s return, he was compelled to sur¬ render, and to prevent himself from falling into the enraged monarch’s hands, opened his veins and bled to death, or, accord¬ ing to another account, leapt his horse off the rock into the sea. The Earl of Oxford, flying from the battle of Barnet, temp. Henry VI., obtained admission in the disguise of a pilgrim, and assisted by several of his foUowers, raised the Lancasterian standard. Forces were despatched against him, but so stout was his defence, it was deemed advisable to bribe him with a pardon upon condi¬ tion that he yielded up the castle (a.d. 1471). Another refugee was Lady Katherine Gordon, the “ Fair Rose of Scotland,” and the beautiful wife of Perkin Warbeck ; but she was soon tom from her sanctuary by Lord Daubeny, and placed in the hands of Henry VII. During the religious commotions which desolated Cornwall and Devonshire in 1549, the insurgents crossed the sands at low water, and sheltering themselves under trusses of hay, clomb to the assault. They captured the castle, but it was soon afterwards re-captured by the royalists, and Humphrey Arundell, the rebel-leader, was beheaded. And, finally, its royalist garrison, under Sir Francis Basset, was compelled, during the Civil War to surrender to a body of Parliamentarian troopers under Colonel Hammond. The Mount was visited on one occa¬ sion by Charles II., and in 1846 by Queen Victoria and IL.R.H. the Prince Consort. The print of the Queen’s foot upon the pier is marked by an inlaid brass. St. Michael’s is reached from Marazion at low water (8 hours out of the 24) by a paved causeway, 1200 feet long. The Mount is a pyramidical mass of granite, a mile in circuit, 231 feet high, crowned by castellated buildings, and relieved by the shadows of a few clumps of firs. On the right rises a pile of 86 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . greenstone, supported on clay slate, called the Chapel Rock. A small fishing village Res at the base, skirting a harbour which has sufficient depth of water for vessels of 500 tons, and the hill towers magnificently above it, hare, precipitous, and ragged. The body is of granite, resting, on the north side, on a substra¬ tum of slate, and streaked on the south-east by veins of gRtter- ing quartz. The ascent is commanded by a cross-waU pierced with numerous embrasures, and a platform defended by two sinaU batteries. In the castle itself there is Rttle to be seen : the ancient Hall, now caRed the Chevy Chace Room, is enriched with an animated cornice representing the fox, stag, boar, wild buR, and other animals appropriated to the huntsman’s sport; the Chapel exhibits details both of Decorated and Perpendicular, and is enlivened with some modern stained glass. From the tower, or the stone lantern, erroneously caRed St. Michael’s Chair —a point somewhat difficult to reach, and very difficult to return from—a noble panorama of the Cornish coast and the wide-spreading Channel, seen usually under the most picturesque aerial effects, may be commanded. It is said by the gossips that the husband or wife who first sits in St. Michael's Chair wiR obtain the highly-prized privilege supposed to be conferred by the first draught of the waters of St. Keyne’s Well. But the real “ St. Michael's Chair” is a rude, rough crag on the west side of the rock. “ Who knows not Michael’s mount and chair, the pilgrim’s holy vaunt; Both land and island twice a day, both fort and port of haunt 1 ” Returning to Marazion, and resuming our places in our raR- way-carriage (the station, by the way, is about 1^ mile north¬ west of Marazion-town), we pass Ludvan and Gulvale (see post.), and running along the shore for a mile or so, enter the beautiful market-town of Penzance, the southern terminus of the great iron roads of England. PENZANCE. [Hotels— On the Esplanade, The Queen’s and Mount’s Bay House; in the town, Western, Union. 283 m. from London ; 10 m. from the Land’s End; 27$ m. from Truro; S2J m. from Plymouth; 3 m. from Marazion; 7 m. from St. Ives; 12 m. from Helstone; and 24 m. from Falmouth. Banks : Messrs. Batten and Co. ; Messrs. Bolithos and Co. Market-Days : Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. £S"Steamers to Falmouth, Plymouth, Liverpool, the Scilly Isles, and London. Boardino - Houses : Royal Bath House, and Beachtield House, both on Es¬ planade.] Route 1 PENZANCE. 87 Penzance, the most westerly town of England, lies on a declivity at the north-west edge of Mount’s Bay, with hills closely encircling it on the north and east. The soil in its vicinity, resting upon a substratum of hornblende and argillaceous slate, is noted for its extraordinary fertility, and especially for its growth of potatoes. The town itself is mainly composed of four large streets, which meet in the market-place, and possesses no public buildings of architectural importance ; but it is very finely situated, commanding a full view of the beautiful shores of Mount’s Bay, and communicating with hills bold and romantic, with valleys as fair as they are fertile. It derives its name from a chapel dedicated to St. Anthony, which formerly crowned the headland just beyond the pier, and principally dates from the reign of Charles II., when it w T as made a coinage town. In 1595, it was sacked by the Spaniards, who landed at Mousehole, destroyed that village and Newlyn, and set Penzance on fire. Having thus accomplished the old Cornish prophecy, w'hich predicted that “ Strangers would land on the rooks of Merlin, And bum St. Paul’s Church, Penzance, and Newlyn.” They were fiercely attacked by the townsmen (who had wisely w r aited the fulfilment of the rune), and compelled to retire. Such, at least, is the story told by old Carew. In 1646 the town was ravaged by the Roundheads under Fairfax. In 1846 it was visited by Queen Victoria. Population of the town, 11,684. Penzance has given birth to three “ illustrissimi,”—to Gilbert Davies, a man of considerable scientific merit; Sir Humphrey Davy (1778-1829), who bequeathed .£100 to the Penzance grammar-school, on condition that the boys w r ere annually allowed a holiday on his birthday, and whose house is still pointed out in front of the marketplace ; and the gallant admiral, Lord Exmoutli (1757-1832). Among its celebrities ought also to be classed Mary KalynacJc, the fishwoman who, at eighty-four years of age, walked all the way to London to visit the Great Exhibition of 1851, and received her Majesty’s especial notice. Her bust was sculptured by Bumard, the Cornish artist, and is, w T e think, pre¬ served in the Polytechnic at Falmouth. The parish church of Penzance is at MADRON (population, 2977), l£ mile north-w r est, but there are two chapels of ease in FROM PLYMOUTH. TO PENZANCE. Route 1 . 88 the town—one dedicated to St. Mary, consecrated in 1836; and a recent building of granite, and in the Early English style, from the designs of Mr. Mat thews of Penzance, erected in 1835 at a cost of £5000—defrayed by the Rev. H. Batten, and dedicated to St. Paul. The Town Hall is a modern semi-classical structure of granite, surmounted by a dome, which contains the collections of the Penwitli Natural History Society, open to the public on market- days. The Municipal Buildings, erected in 1867, contain the civic offices, the public library, and St. John’s Hall. The interesting collections of the Geological and Antiquarian Societies are exhibited here, and are well worth a visit. The Esplanade affords a delightful promenade, and is ornamented by a Russian trophy—a 36-pounder gun, captured at Bomarsund. The Har¬ bour, 22 ft. deep at high water, is protected by a battery erected in 1858. Nearly opposite stands the railway terminus,—the line defended by a massive sea-wall, and beyond extend the two arms of the Pier —the east constructed in 1845, the west in 1772. In 1814, and through the exertions of the late eminent phy¬ sician Dr. Paris, was founded the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, whose published “ Transactions ” should be duly esti¬ mated by every “ geological tourist.” Its collection, on view in St. John’s Hall, contains several thousand specimens of rare and valuable minerals ; many fine Cornish fossils ; and models illus¬ trative of mining operations. At Mr. Carne’s Museum, New Street, there is an admirable selection of Cornish minerals. Serpentine and steatite, brought from the Lizard Point, are manufactured here into ornaments of all kinds. The principal gentlemen’s seats in the neighbourhood are— Trevaylor, just beyond Hea, north of Penzance. Nanceal- verne, on the Madron road. Rose Hill. Castle Horneck. Larrigan, near Madron. Ponsondine, near Chyandour. Pendrea. Trengwainton, beyond Madron. Kenegie, north of Gulval. Trereife, west of Penzance. Trewithin, near Trereife. [The RAMBLES in the neighbourhood should include visits to — 1. Gulval and Ludgvan ; 2. Madron ; 3. Mousehole and Lamorna Cove ; 4. To the Land's End by way of St. Paul, St. Buryan, St. Levan and the Cliffs: 5. The Coast from Penzance to the Lizard Point. We shall now describe them in detail. 1. To Gulval we proceed by way of Chyandour, lying east of the town, and boasting of a camp-crowned hill, called Lescaddoc Castle. Turning to the right we descend into a leafy hollow, very romantically beset with bough and branch, and Route 1 . RAMBLES ROUND 1'ENZAXCE. 80 echoing with the music of the birds. Here the village of GULVAL (population, 1668) nestles in a tranquil solitude. On the hill beyond rises its ancient Church, distinguished by some Early English details ; its churchyard graced with a hoary cross. From thence we may climb to the mossy rocks of Gulval Carn for the sake of the sea-view which their elevated position commands, and turning off to tho north-east make across the fields to LUDGVAN (population, 2960), where sleeps the erudite and amiable Borlase (1696-1772), historian of Cornwall, and rector of the parish for 52 years. He was bom at Pendieu, about 2 miles further. There are memorials in the interior of the old Norman Church to members of the Davy family. Facing now to the north-west, we may catch sight of the rugged outline of bleak old Castle an Dinas, a ruined tower and an ancient camp on its summit, 735 feet above the sea. 2. MADRON (population, 2701) is the mother-church of Penzance. The road thither passes York House, the Cemetery, and Nancealveme, and then crosses the meadowy uplands. Away to the right lies Hea (pron. Ilay), where the Wesley Rock Chapel enshrines the granite rock from which John Wesley proclaimed the gospel to the wondering Cornishmen. Madron Church is placed 350 feet above tho sea, is Early English in character, and contains some old memorials. A tombstone commemorates George Daniell, the founder of the schools,— “ Belgia me birth, Britaine me breeding gave, Cornwall a wife, ten children, and a grave.” Remark the wayside cross in the neighbouring hedge, and look for its pedestal in the village street. Madron Well, 1 mile north, is a chalybeate weR, once highly esteemed for its curative properties in cases of lameness and scrofula, and its pro¬ phetical powers in respect to love and marriage. The latter were tested by young men and maidens, who flung pebbles or crooked pins into its waters, and read in the consequent bubbles the indications of their future fates. The mouldering walls of the ancient Baptistry afford an excellent shelter for trailing ivy, mosses, lichens, and parasitical climbers. From hence to Lanyon Cromlech, or the Giant's Quoit, is some twenty minutes’ walk. The upper slab is 18 feet long, its breadth is 8 feet, and three rude masses of stone about 5J feet high support it. A similar cromlech may be seen in a field adjacent to Lanyon Farm. The Men-an-tol, or Holed Stone, is but a few paces further; and to the left lies the remarkable Men Scryffen, or Written Stone, 8 feet long, and bearing the inscription—“ Rialobran Cunovan Fit.” It probably dates from the era of the Roman occupation of Britain. Standing here, and looking towards the east, the tourist will just be able to discern the Boskednan Ring or sacred Druidical arch— 68 feet in diameter, and composed of 11 stones, three of which now lie upon the sward. 3. This, of all the rambles we have indicated, is the most delightful, and one that no tourist to Tenzance can any more think of missing than a countryman in London would fail to see Buckingham Palace or “ the Bank.” The road to Mousehole is a noble “ Marine Parade; ” a terraced walk along the sea-coast, commanding fanciful views of the “ guarded Mount,” and the shifting billows, and the wind¬ swept headlands which tower against the eastern sky. Opposite a clump of cottages called Wherry Town, a Comish miner, one Tliomas Curtis, actually sunk a mine, 720 feet from the shore, forcing his iron shafts into the porphyritic rock, 100 feet beneath the waves. Considerable quantities of ore had been raised, when the machi¬ nery was accidentally destroyed by a ship which had drifted from her moorings (1798). An attempt was made to re-open the mine in 1836, but the speculation was aban¬ doned on account of its cost. 90 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 We now enter Street-an-Nowan, pass through NEWLYN (population, ]6SS), and its pilchard garniture, refresh ourselves, if need be, at the Navy I x n , and climb the heart-wearying acclivity of Paul Hill. A couple of small batteries (at some distance apart, however) may help to beguile us on our way by suggesting theories on the value of coast defences ; but we shall probably be more inclined to speculate as to the influence of colour on a landscape, and admire the purpureum lumen which lights up sea and shore. The village of Mousehole nestles in a sweet shadowy hollow, which opens out upon two small piers of granite, some fantastic groupings of rocks, and the glorious Bay. The Spanish made a descent here in 1595, and the cannon-ball which killed one of its worthies, Jenkin Keigwin, is treasured as an interesting relic in a cottage opposite the Keigwins Arms. Off the harbour lies St. Clement's Isle, a mass of felspar once crowned by an oratory. Mousehole was formerly a market-town, known as Porth Enys (Enys, an island, Cornish). Its present name is derived, it is said, from Moz Hel, the Maiden's River. A quay was built here in 1392. Here died, in 1788, aged 102 years, Dolly Pentreath, celebrated by Peter Pindar : “Hail, Mousehole, birthplace of old Doll Pentreath, The last who jabbered Cornish.” The Mousehole Cavern is situated 150 yards from the village. Whether it is worth the trouble of exploring the tourist had better decide for himself. Striking inland as far as the Kenyon Farm-house, and then turning off abruptly to the coast, the pedestrian will reach Lajiorna Cove. If he there ensconces him¬ self on a rock out of hearing of the toiling quarrymen, who are rapidly destroying the romantic features of the scene, he may perhaps lose himself in the most delici¬ ous day-dreams imaginable; and in such a nook of loveliness something of the divine afflatus of Poesy must necessarily fall upon every heart. For the geologist the neighbouring coast will supply abundant themes of pleasant meditation. Following inland the course of a small stream that near this point ripples into the sea, we reach the high road, and pass the village of ST. PAUL (population, 5747), whose church-tower of granite bears the date 821. The remainder of the building was rebuilt after the descent of the Spanish in 1595. In the churchyard lies the dust of Dolly Pentreath. A noble view may be obtained from the hill. 4. In an excursion from Penzance to the Land’s End —which is, of course, an excursion that every visitor must attempt —the following route may be recommended from personal experience. You leave Penzance by way of Wherry Town and Paul Hill, cross a patch of golden-blossomed moorland, descend into the Vale of Lamoma, where directions should be obtained for a peep into the Foog-Hole, an artificial recess, made use of by some royalists as a refuge from the Roundheads—leave Lamoma Cove on your left, and climb the ascent to Bolleit (a farmstead)—the “ place of blood ”—the scene of Athelstan’s defeat of the Britons in 936. Into this, their last fastness, bad the stanch aborigines been driven, and here they fought their last unavailing fight. On the right of the road you now pass two upright stones, 12 and 16 feet high, one in each field, called “ the Pipersand further on, after passing a blacksmith’s shop come on an ancient cross and the Holed stone (both on the road). The latter is said to have been used by the Druids for tying down their human sacrifices. In a field to the left of this, is the circle called the “ Merry Maidens,” consisting of 19 upright stones, and measuring 30 paces in diameter. A footpath across the field, from the “ smithy,” leads the visitor right through the circle, and joins the road just at the “holed” stone. Route 1 . KAMBLES ROUND PENZANCE. 91 We now strike to the right, and follow a tolerable road into the church-town of ST. BURY AN (population, 1437A where Athelstan, after he had subjugated the Scilly Islands, founded a college of Agustinian canons. Its Perpendicular Church has a lofty tower, and contains a coffin-shaped monument, inscribed—“ Clarice, la Cheffrei de Bolleit, git iqy—Deu de I’alme est mercy—E ke par l’alme punt, di ior de pardun averund”—(Clarice, the wife of Geoffrey de Bolleit, lies here: God have mercy on her soul, and whoever prays for her soul shall obtain ten days’ indulgence.) At Buryan, in 1577, was horn William Noy, the obnoxious attorney-general of Charles I. On the left, as we continue our route, there will be observed Boskenna, a picturesque mansion approached by a noble arcade of beech and sycamore. De¬ scending into the deep hollow which opens upon the sea at Penberth Cove, we next climb the hill to the rude little weather-beaten hamlet of Treryn (pronounced Treat), where decent refreshment (and, if needed, a guide) may be procured. From hence to the grand promontory of Treryn Castle, or Treryn Dinas, the “ place of fight,” is twenty minutes’ walk. Here we may observe the remains of a triple vallum and fosse, and entering within the enclosure, ascend to the celebrated Logan Rock, —a mass of granite weighing 65J tons nearly (17 feet long and 30 feet in circumference), which was formerly so poised upon its axis that it could he easily shaken, and yet soon regained its equilibrium. In 1S24 it was overthrown by Lieutenant Goldsmith, a nephew of the poet, and some sailors under his command, by way of disproving the assertion of antiquarian Borlase, that no mechanical force could remove it from its situation. Great were the complaints raised against the rash seaman, and the Admiralty ordered him to replace the Logan in its immemo¬ rial position ; a task which he accomplished by the aid of powerful capstans and scaffolding, and at an outlay which, we believe, crippled the lieutenant’s limited resources to the very day of his death. The pedestrian may now keep along the Cliff to the Land’s End. He will pass in succession— Penberth Cove— its small fishing village and coast-guard station. Treryn an Dinas— projecting 600 feet into the sea. Portheurnow — i. e., the cairn-surrounded port, where the sand is formed of minute shells. B3T ST. LEVAN (population, 530), lies half a mile inland. As you ascend the stone steps to the churchyard, remark the Lych-stone, where the coffins were for¬ merly rested on their way to the grave. It was placed there about a century ago by the then churchwardens, whose coffins were the first to rest upon it. The cross in the churchyard is a noble memorial. Manack Point — i. e., the Monk’s Point. Pedn Mean an Mor —the headland of stone in the sea. Carn Vesacks —the rock outside. Pol Ledan —the broad pooL Porthowarra —the higher port, a small fishing village at the entrance of a deep ravine. The lobsters caught off this part of the coast are of superior flavour. Polostoc —the cap-headland, that is, resembling a fisherman’s cap, an eery, dream- compelling spot, in the gray haze of the morning, or the rosy light of sunset. Tol Pedn Penwith —that is, the “ Holed Headland,” in Penwith, deriving its name from its Funnel Rock, a pit or chasm, about 100 feet in depth and 8 feet in dia¬ meter, and cut apparently as smoothly as a wall might be, from the slope of the cliff to the sea, which may be seen roaring below. The Rundlestone lies off this point about 1 mile, and its position is indicated tc mariners by the two beacons placed on the headland. Numerous disastrous wrecks have nevertheless occurred in this vicinity. For Loe —a rocky cove, quiet and romantic. Carn Barra —the “ loaf- 92 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 earn,” a fantastic mass of rock which the spectator’s imagination may image as something nobler or more terrible than a loaf. Zawn Kellys —the Fallen Cave. Numerous caverns and isolated rocks will be found along the shore, but these it is impossible to particularize. Mill Bay (or Nanjissel Cove—the Cove under the Vale)—one of the most romantic points on this most romantic coast. In the adjoin¬ ing headland is an aperture or chasm called “ The Song of the Sea." The cliff¬ line is varied by several rifts and fissures, gullies, and channels of tiny rills. Carn Voel —the Chilly Cam,—steep, and nugged, and rock-heaped. Zawn Ruth— the Red Cave. B3T Mozrang Pool —the Maid's Pool—a sheltered recess in the shadow of— Paidenick— the hill upon bill,—a striking and wonderful promontory where the Titans would seem to have been surprised by the Gods while erecting a huge palace for their king. Carn Creab —the Cock’s Comb Rock. A group of rocks, the Guelas, may be seen from this point, some of which bear fantastic resemblances to natural objects. One of the most conspicuous is prettily called the Armed Knight, and another the Irish Lady. Carn Kez —the Cheese Rock. A mass of granito on the acclivity is called Dr. Johnson’s Head I The LAND’S END (respectable inn here)—293 miles from London, the Boleriuh of the ancient geographers, and the most westerly extremity of England, is a mass of granite 60 feet high. The prospect it commands is one of indescribable magnificence. At 1 \ mile from the shore rises the tall shaft of the Longship’s Light¬ house, built of granite, and erected by Mr. Smith in 1797. The insulated rock on which it is built is 60 feet high, and the building itself 52 feet. Yonder, against the western sky, reposes like a cluster of light clouds, the Scilly Isles. To the north extends the bold curve of Whitesand Bay, bounded by Cape Cornwall. [Inland lies SENNEN (population, 630), above Sennen Cove, a fishing station, 387 feet above the sea, and boasting of an hostelry which is quaintly called, on one side, “ The First,” and on the other “ The Last Inn in England ” But the “ Land’s End Hotel,” has a better claim to this distinction.] Resuming our cliff route we shall pass— Pedn Men Dhu —i.e., the black-rock headland. The rock at its base is named the Irish Lady. 'Sennen Cove —above is the village of Sennen. VellanDreath —the mill in the sand. Carn Towan —the sandy cam. Towans are heaps of driven sand. Carn Barges —the kite’s cam. Carn Mellyn —the yellow cam. Polpry —the clay pit. Carn Leskez —the carn of light, where the Druids, it is said, were wont to kindle their sacred fires. Carn Glos —the gray rock. Cape Corn¬ wall —230 feet above the sea. Off this headland lie the Brisons, or Sisters, two perilous rocks about 65 feet high. Here is the Little Bounds, a submarine mine; and inland, about 1 mile north-east, is the famous BOTALLACK MINE, a scene of the most extraordinary character. The extreme depth is 1050 feet, and some of the galleries stretch 1200 feet, or more, under the ocean-bed. The roar of the sea is sometimes so terrific that even the stout hearts of the miners fail them, and they escape as quickly as they can to the upper air.* The descent can only be made in the morning from 7 to 9 a.m. Charge 10s. The interior was visited by the Prince of Wales in his tour through the Duchy. * “Those who expect,” says Mr. Whyte, “to see a towering or far-stretching promontory wall be disappointed. We. form our ideas from ordinary maps, and Tot pctbn in-nn-ith ^ Route 1 . EXCURSION-THE LIZARD POINT. 93 OS' The return to Penzance may he by way of ST. JUST (population, 9011. Inns: Commercial, and Wellington)— St. Joost, as it is pronounced, and St. Just in Penwith, as it is sometimes designated, a busy miners’ town, with the ruins of a British amphitheatre, 126 feet in diameter, and a curious old Church, to interest the tourist. In the vicinity may be visited Balleswidden, a large tin mine, and the sacred circle of the Merry Maidens. St. Just is 7 miles from Penzance. EXCURSION, by water, from PENZANCE to the LIZARD POINT. [Our notes will also he available for the pedestrian who makes his way along the coast-path. ] The first object of special interest as we sail along the shore, after passing Ma- razion, and the sea-side village of PERRANUTHNOE (population, 1191)— or Little Piran—in the vicinity of several mines, is Acton Castle, a mansion of some archi¬ tectural pretensions, very finely situated. Next the black headland of Cuddan Point flings itself out seaward, and forms the east boundary of Mount’s Bay. The cliffs here are composed of clay - slate, and trappean rocks. Beyond it the shore curves in among the rocks to form the “ romancy ” cavernous recess of Bessie’s Cove. In the largest cavern a natural shaft, or tunnel, ascends to the surface of the cliff. Prussia Cove is tenanted by a party of coastguardsmen and some adventurous fishermen. It takes its name from a former host of the “King of Prussia” here, a daring smuggler who had contrived to erect a battery upon the overhanging cliff, and even ventured to fire at the Fairy, a sloop of war. The king’s ship manned her boats, and sent them against the smuggler’s fortress, which they soon destroyed. imagine England’s utmost cape to he a narrow tongue thrust out from the firm shore along which we may walk to meet the advancing waves. But we find the reality to be merely a protruding shoulder or buttress of the vast irregular bluff that terminates the county. Cape Cornwall, which looks so grand about 2 miles distant, appears to extend farther to the west than the Land’s End. Sit still, and gaze : the scene grows upon you. Here the two channels commingle with the ocean ; and far out as eye can reach, and round on either hand till it meets the remotest point of the rugged shore, stretches the watery expanse. The billows come tumbling in, and break in thunder at the base of the cliffs, dashing the impatient spray well-nigh to their summit. You may descend by steep paths to a lower level, and seethe cavernous opening which their plunging assaults have worn through from one side of the buttress to the other. With what fury they rush into the recess, and make horrid whirlpools behind the mass which some day will be an isolated member of the rocky group scattered along the shore 1 We scrambled about in all directions, and looked at that curious lump of rock, Dr. Johnson’s Head, which really present* some likeness to the profile of the great lexicographer; now on one of the higher peaks; now descending to some hollow, from which the structure of the cliffs can be well seen. The granite is piled in columns with almost the regularity of basalt. In one of the buttresses may be seen a raised beach—but one of a series, which are traceable at intervals all round the coast, from Lyme Regis to Bridgewater— unmistakeable evidence of upheaval on a great scale. So gradual is the slope of the sea-bottom, that, as geologists tell us, were the water withdrawn, the land would appear to be a mountainous mass rising from an immense plain.”— A Lmdortr’s Walk to the Land's End. 94 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 1 Sidney Cove is the site of a mine recently opened, and named by its owner Sidney Godolphin. Pengersic —or Pen-giveras-ike, the “head fort of the Cove”—consists of two embattled towers, the remains of a castellated pile erected in the reign of Henry VIII., and resorted to by one Mr. Milliton, who, in repentance of a secret murder, secluded himself within its lonely walls for many years. The wainscotted walls of the larger tower are enriched with carving, paintings, and inscriptions. Tbewavas Head, a lofty granitic elevation of considerable grandeur. Remark the Raised Beach, and the pillar-like mass, known as the Bishoi Rock. Inland, lies GERMOE (population, 953), said to have been founded about 460, by an Irish king, named Germochas; and BREAGE (population, 4450) —pronounced Braque— also ascribed to Irish enterprise—its founder having been St. Breach. Popthleven, a small seaport, with a recently constructed harbour, into which, in stormy weather, it is unfortunately very dangerous for vessels to attempt an entrance. The beach is shingly, and difficult for the pedestrian. Mouth of the Cober, and Loe Pool. (See ante.) Poljew, a small but romantic recess. Inland stands the solitary, weather-beaten, and lichen-stained church of GUNWALLOE (population, 222). Bellurian Cove. Off it lies Mullion Island, 1 mile in circumference, and ol grotesque aspect. A pile of rocks on the adjacent cliffs is called “The Cathedral.” Mullion Cove, or Porthmallin. There is here a remarkably fine cavern, paved with smooth sands, and enlivened by little pools of tranquil water, which may be entered at low water. At MULLION (population, 695), 1 mile inland, stands a gray old Church, built in 1500, well worth a visit. Mullion Gull Rock. Pradanack Head ; a lofty promontory. Yellan Point. Gue Graze, or the Soap-Rock, where the serpentine exhibits thick lodes of a soft gray substance called steatite, formerly made use of in pottery-work. The precipitous cliff beyond, is tunnelled by a deep cavern, Pigeon’s Hugo (hugos, caverns; Comish). The Rill, a headland of much magnificence. On its crest is the Apron String, a heap of stones dropped from the devil's apron, when he designed to construct a bridge across the channel for the benefit of smugglers. Kynance Cove. A spot to be seen, to be painted, to be dreamed of, but not to be written about. Here is an insulated rock called Asparagus Island, from its growth of Asparagus officinalis, pierced by a deep fissure, the Devil's Beli.ows, through which a jet of water is occasionally forced, by compressed air, with a tre¬ mendous roar. A smaller spout is called “ The Post Office.” Three caverns in tlis cliff are respectively named, The Parlour, the Drawing-Room, and the Kitchen. The rocks are of liigh interest to the geologist. Serpentine is largely collected here. Upon one of these rocks the Queen landed in 1846. Tor Balk ; a hill above Kynance Cove. Y ellow Ca rn, 200 feet high, divided from the sea by an insulated rock, the Innis Tean. Holeshow ; the site of a considerable landslip. Caerthillian ; a stream-washed chine or gully, where the cliffs exhibit mica slate making its appearance from beneath the serpentine, and the three species of trefoil, Tripholium bocooni, T mollinerii. and T. striotum. mav bo Gathered. Route 2 . LAUNCESTON. 95 Old Lizard Head, the most southeily point in England. The cliff has three heads, as it were, and beneath it lie the black rocks of “the Stags.” Inland lies Pistol Meadow, where were buried a number of seamen and soldiers lost in the wreck of a transport on the Man-of-War Rocks. It received its name from the quantity of flre-arms flung ashore. Polpeer, a fishing village, pleasantly situated in the hollow of a little sandy cove The caverns in its vicinity vary in beauty, but are all of interest. LIZARD POINT, and its light-houses, now warn us that our coast excursion is completed. Inns: Hill's, and Skew’s.] ROUTE II.—LAUNCESTON to BODMIN. [To Five Lanes, 7 m. ; Jamaica Inn, 3} m. ; Four Hole Cross, 1£ m. ; Temple 3J m. ; Bodmin, 6 m. ; 234 m. from London. Total length of Route, 21£ m. The tourist who has entered. Cornwall at Paulston, in con¬ nection with the Oakhampton road (see Devonshire), or at Lowle Bridge, on his way from Tavistock (see Devonshire, Route vii.), will, crossing first the Tamar Navigation Canal, and next the beautiful Tamar itself, make his way to LAUNCESTON— i.e., Lan-cester-ton, the Church-Castle- Town. [Population, 3217 Inns: White Hart, and King’s Arms. 213 m. from London ; 18 m. from Oakhampton; 11 m. from Tavistock; 2 m. from the Tamar; 11 m. from Callington; 20 m. from Saltash ; 18 m. from Tintagel; 21J m. from Bodmin ; 10J m. from the Jamaica Inn; and 44 m. from Truro. Banks : Messrs. Robins and Co. ; Messrs. Gill and Co. ; Messrs. Dingley and Co. ; and Branch of Devon and Cornwall Banking Company. Market Days : Wednesday and Saturday. &ST Coach to Bude. The position of Launceston, on a gentle slope declining to the bank of the little river Kinsey, is signified by its ancient name, Dunheved, or “ the swelling lull its principal attractions are indicated by its modern appellation, Lan-cester-ton, the Churcli- castle-town. Its picturesqueness of grouping and situation are, perhaps, seen to most advantage from the north—that is, from the St. Stephens road—from whence the hill, on whose sides it clusters, seems to rise suddenly out of a fertile plain, the stately tower of the Church, and the ivied masses of the Castle forming 96 FROM LAUNCESTON TO BODMIN. Route 2 . the most prominent objects in a striking and richly-coloured picture. The municipal boundaries of Launceston include the ancient boroughs of Dunheved, and of Newport, which returned repre¬ sentatives to Parliament from the reign of Edward VI. to the Reform Act of 1832 — its electors averaging half a hundred in number—and the parishes of St. Thomas and St. Stephen. It has always held a considerable position among the Cornish boroughs, though the history of its growth is sufficiently simple: first, the castle, then the convent, nestling under its protection, and lastly, the town springing up around them both. It was made a free borough by Earl Richard of Cornwall, who granted the townsmen a piece of land for the site of their guildhall at the yearly rent of a pound of pepper. In 1553 it was incorpo¬ rated by Queen Mary, who appointed a mayor, eight aldermen, and a recorder for its municipality. About this time it appears to have fallen into some decay, hut it soon recovered, for Norden, in 1590, writes of it,—“ The towne has been much repayred in building, and increased in wealth, of late years.” Up to the reign of James I. it possessed the privilege of sanctuary; a privilege which may have been of advantage to its consequence, but certainly not to its character. In 1738 it was constituted an assize-town ; but the assizes are now held at Bodmin. Its Castle is situated upon an abrupt escarpment of the hill of Dunheved, on its northern ridge, at a height of 100 feet above the valley watered by the Kinsey. It occupies the site of a Saxon fortress, bestowed by the Conqueror on his half-brother, Robert, Earl of Mortaigne and Cornwall, and from its command¬ ing position was esteemed of much importance in the old days of civil warfare. It was annexed to the duchy soon after the death of Earl William, but was wofully neglected, and fell into grievous decay; yet Leland, writing in the time of Henry VHI., observes,—“ Yt is the strongest, though not the biggest I have beheld in any auneient worke in England. Lawnston, otherwise Dunevet,” he continues, “ is a walled towne, ny yn cumpas a myle, but now ruinus. On the north side of the towne is the castle, standing on a bye hille withyn the said towne, and hath 3 round wardes. Part of the castel standing north-west ys parcel of the walle of the towne. There be withyn this towne 3 gates and a postern, also a gate to go out of the castel ynto the great parke. The wall of Dunhevet ys hy, larg, and strong, and Route 2 . LAUNCESTON. 97 defensably set.” Carew, in 1602, also refers to its decayed con¬ dition; but in 1645, it was repaired and strengthened by Sir Richard Grenville who garrisoned it for King Charles. To Fair¬ fax, on his advance into Cornwall in the following year, it of course was compelled to surrender, and from that time to the pre¬ sent the Castle of Launceston has had no history. The Castle, in its day of glory, was 93 feet in diameter, and consisted of three wards or courts, the first protected by a wall not quite three feet in thickness, the second, at a distance of 6 feet, by a rampart 12 feet thick, and the inmost by a rampart 10 feet thick and 32 feet high. The inner tower, or keep, had a basement-floor, and two upper storeys. Into the lower room opens a door on the north side, and a staircase built in the wall winds partly round the tower to the first storey, which is obscurely lighted by two small windows, and provided with a fire-place. The staircase originally continued its ascent to the very parapet, but is not now in existence. The general character of the architecture is late Norman. The court between the tower and wall was evidently roofed in with timber, and the joist-holes are still distinctly visible. At the foot of the mound whereon these ruins (kept in excellent order and repair by their proprietor, the Duke of Northumberland) are placed, stands a gate-tower approached by a flight of modem steps. A wall encircled the mound, and was strengthened by the gate-tower, but its ruins are very scanty. This was the outer wall, 3 feet thick and very low, and probably designed simply as “ a parapet for soldiers to fight from, and defend the brow of the hill.” Of the second wall, the remains on the south-east side are of some consequence. The gate-house is still standing, with its Early English archway, and grooves for a portcullis in excellent preservation. The north gate is of Early English architecture. On all sides a deep defile, it is too narrow to be called a valley, protects the castle. On the south-east it has been arti¬ ficially deepened, and houses have sprung up about it. Its name points to its early uses,—the Castle Ditch. The precincts had been carefully planted and admirably arranged as a public park at the expense of the Duke of Northumberland, who is Hereditary High Constable of Launceston. The Church, in the centre of the town, is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. A stately and spacious building, in the Per- H 98 FROM LAUNCESTON TO BODMIN. Route 2 pendicular style, recently and effectively restored. It was erected in 1524 by Sir Henry Trecarrel of Trecarrel; consists of a nave, chancel, north and south aisles, and west tower; is entirely built of granite, and bears on its walls “ a profusion of sculptured ornaments, panels, and letters. Among the first are several representations of the pomegranate and the rose, and various shields of arms, with the Prince of Wales’s feather or plume.” The south porch is large and handsome; has a room over it, and basso relievos, in front, of St. Martin and St. George and the Dragon. Beneath the east window is a niche containing a figure of St. Mary Magdalene. On a series of shields, arranged round the building between the basement and windows, are embossed the following devout ejaculatory phrases—a letter on each shield:— “ gibe |ftana (Sratte, plena, gomtnus tecum sponsns, amat Sponsam Ittaria, optimam partem clegtt. © quant terribilis ae metuentras est lotus iste, bere aliub non est (nc nisi bourns Jlti et porta Coeli.” In the interior are numerous memorials, and a curious polygonal pulpit. Observe the monument and effigies of the brave old loyalist, Sir Hugh Piper, d. 1687, and his wife Sibylla. Of the Priory founded here by Bishop Warlewast for Augustinian canons, temp. Henry L, the principal remains are,— a Norman archway, enriched with chevron mouldings, which now figures as the entrance to the White Hart Inn. Of the walls which formerly encircled the town there are several portions standing, and a handsome decorated gateway, on the Devonshire road. ST. STEPHEN’S (population 929), the north suburb of Launceston, lies in a very fair and fertile country. Its Church is built of granite, and exhibits Early English details in its nave, and Perpendicular in its tower, which is lofty, square, and massive. IThe principal Stats in the vicinity may easily he enumerated. Trebartha Hall (F. Todd, Esq.), on the river Lynher, and within a short dis¬ tance of NORTHILL (population, 1392), 7 miles south-west of Launceston. Werrington (Duke of Northumberland), south of WERRINGTON (population, 707), on the river Werrington, a branch of the Tamar, and within the boundaries of Devon. The grounds are extensive and beautiful. Distance from Launceston, about 3 miles north. Route 2 . THE JAMAICA INN. 99 Trecarrel, an old Tudor mansion, built by Sir Henry Trecarrel, in 1540, where Charles I. passed a niglit on his entrance into Cornwall in 1645. The scenery in which it is embosomed is admirably romantic, and enlivened by the rippling Inny. Distance from Launceston vid LEZANT (population, 869), nearly 6J miles. Ekdsleioh (Duke oi Bedford), on the Tavistock road, 9 miles. Tickets of admis¬ sion may be procured at the White Hart. ] The Bodmin Road is by no means to he lauded for the cheer¬ ful scenery which it brings within our ken. Lonesome and desolate enough, even in these days of high-pressure cultivation, are the wild moorlands which it traverses, and but seldom does the weary eye light upon a patch of blooming garden-ground, a rich grassy croft, or a golden gleaming com field. At 4 miles we pass Holloway, or Holy-way Cross, one of those wayside memorials so abundant on the Cornish roads. At 4£ miles from Launceston, at Hick’s Mill, we cross the Inny, a pleasant tributary of the Tamar, which rises in the north¬ west near DAVIDSTOW (population, 410), on the Camelford road. 11 mile further and we cross a branch of the Inny, at Tre- rethick Bridge, and enter the wild, barren, and far-reaching parish of ALTERNON (population, 1200), its Church and Vil¬ lage, and St. Num’s Well, lying on our right, in a coimtry of many streams. Five Lanes is a small hamlet, 7 miles from Launceston, mournfully situated on the borders of the wind-swept moorland. 1 mile beyond is Trewint, whence we may diverge to Camel- ford on the right, and Northill on the left. Continuing our route, however, v r e plunge at once into the Bodmin Moors, a dis¬ trict of scanty cultivation, but not without interest for the tra¬ veller. Its stream-works, cams, and abrupt bills, its wayside memorials, its little glens, overgrown with an unprofitable vege¬ tation, its spariding rills and water-courses, and its piles of bare, bleak granite, relieve the tedium of his journey. He who hath eyes to see, let him see! At 10miles from Launceston we light upon a wayside “ public,” called the “ Jamaica Inn,” well known to every Cor¬ nish tourist. It formerly stood all alone in its glory, in a barren solitude which might even have disgusted an anchorite, and yet had charms of its own for a Boniface, but now it is neighboured by a neat little church, a school-house, a parsonage, and several simple cottages, recently erected by the lord of the manor, F. Rodd, Esq. of Trebartha. Adams the astronomer, and the discoverer of tho 100 FROM LAUNCESTON TO BODMIN. Route 2 planet Neptune, was born at a small farm in this lonely district, about 4 miles nortb-east. From tbe Jamaica Inn it is usual for the tourist to visit the twin heights of Brown Willy (Bron-Willi) and Rowtor (Rough Tor), two remarkable elevations of granite situated near each other,—the one, 3Jr miles from the Inn, north, the other nearly 4J miles north-west. The path winds round a peculiar hill, or conglomeration of hills, the Tober or Two Barrows, 1122 feet high, and then crosses a wild and somewhat marshy moor to Brown Willy, 1368 feet above the sea. To the left a Tin Stream Work is in active operation. From the summit of the rock-piled steep the view is of wonderful extent and surpassing magnificence. Rowtor is 1298 feet high, and remarkable for its profuse garniture of irregular masses of granite. Though not so high as Brown Willy, it is more imposing in character, from the boldness and grandeur of its elevation. A little spring at its base is the source of the Fowey. The course of the infant stream points out the situation of another lofty height, the Garrah, 1060 feet, and the circular British camp of Arthur’s Hall. In the vicinity of Rowtor are the remains of several Hut-circles, or British villages, and to the west of the kill Res a Druidic memo¬ rial—a Logan Stone, 15 feet long, 12 feet broad, and 4 feet thick,—so easily shaken that the tourist may probably be dis¬ posed to test the quality ascribed to it by the poet:— “ Firm as it seems, Such is its strange and virtuous property, It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch Of him whose heart is pure ; hut to a traitor, Though e’en a giant’s prowess nerv’d his arm, It stands as fix’d as Snowdon ”— {Mason.) A Second Excursion from the “ Jamaica Inn” may also be commended to the tourist—to Dozmare (pronounced Dosmery) Pool, 2 miles south, a black soRtary tarn, 1 mile in circuit and 5 feet deep, lying upon a table land, which is elevated 880 feet above the sea. Just above it rises the steep crest of Bron Gilly, 1100 feet. It is at this pool that Tregeagle pRes his mighty labour, and seeks to empty its waters with a limpet-sheR ; but by means of an artificial cutting they now descend into a branch of the Fowey, which rises near the Bodmin road, at a snort dis¬ tance below “ the Lul” Route 3 . DAVIDSTOW. 101 To resume our route. Four Hole Cross is H mile from the “ Jamaica Inn,” and 12 miles from Launceston. Only two of the “ four holes” recorded by its name can now be detected in the cross. Temple, 3£ miles further, formerly belonged to the knights- templars, who erected a Church here, long ago suffered to fall into a melancholy ruin. 1£ mile, Peverell’s Cross, another wayside memorial. 2 miles, The London Inn ; and 4 miles beyond— 21| miles from Launceston—BODMIN [described pp. 17- 19.] ROUTE III.—LAUNCESTON to PADSTOW. Or, via CAMELFORD to BODMIN. [Davidstow, 11 m. ; Camelford, 4 m. ; St. Teath, 3 m. ; St. Kew, 3 in.; Wade- bridge, 5 m. ; Padstow, 8 m. ; or, from Wadebridge, vid Egloshayle, to Bodmin, 7 m. Total length of Route, 34 m. —(Padstow.) Our route carries us, if we may use the expression, through the borough of Newport, across the Kinsey, and past the fme old church of St. Stephen’s (near the diverging point of the Kilk- hampton road, and 1 mile from Launceston). It then turns to the westward, following the river-course, and at 3 miles passes (on the right) EGLOS KERRY (population, 431), a quiet village very prettily situated, and crossing the country by way of TRESMEER (population, 175), joins, near the eighth milestone from Launceston, the regular high road pursued by the mail coaches. The latter route is nearer, but through a less pictur¬ esque and far more hilly country, and passing—we might almost say avoiding — the villages of Trewen, Laneast, and St. Cleather. DAVIDSTOW (population, 410), pronounced Dewstow — whose rector, the Rev. J. Glanville, bears a true Cornish name— is a squalid village with an interesting Church. The soil in the neighbourhood is churlish and barren, and a broad tract of moorland stretches far away to the south, which is as profitless to the agriculturist as it is cheerless to the wayfarer. It is said that this poor- parish could once boast of three chapels, respec- 102 FROM SALTASH TO KIRKHAMPTON. Route 4 . tively dedicated to St. Michael, St. Augustine, and St. Helena. The river Alan, or Camel, rises in the hill s, north of Davidstow. CAMELFORD (population, 1718) is 4 miles south-west of • Davidstow. ST. TEATH (population, 2245), 3 miles farther, has a Per¬ pendicular Church, where the things to he noticed are — an oaken pulpit, enriched with colourings and carvings; and the painted windows. At 3 miles beyond (6 miles from Camelford), a road diverges to ST. KEW (population, 1178), where the Church possesses some few points of interest. The village is prettily situated in a hollow among the hills. To the left of the road Res ST. TUDY (population, 579), an uninteresting hamlet. The Kelly Rounds, on the left, is an ancient British en¬ campment. The remainder of the route is described, pp. 40-42, from Wadebridge to Padstow ; aud on pp. 39 and 40, Wadebridge to Bodmin. ROUTE IV.—SALTASH, via LAUNCESTON, to KILKHAMPTON. (Subsidiary Route.) [Saltash to Callington, 10 m. ; The Sportsman’s Arms, 5 m ; Launceston, 5 m. ; Werrington, 3 m.; Whitstone, 9 m. ; Kilkhampton, 9 m. Total length of Route, 41 m.] Saltash and its neighbourhood have already received due notice at our hands in the preceding pages. "We shall there¬ fore suppose the tourist to have accomplished the first five miles of his journey, through a series of charming landscapes Rt up by the silver-winding Tamar, and to have reached the point where a bye-road turns off to Pentillie Castle (A. Coryton, Esq.), a handsome modem mansion, designed by Wilkins, the architect of the National GaRery. Wood, hill, and river combine Route 4. ST. MELLION-CALI.TNGTON. 103 to lend an Arcadian charm to this fair seat, and its views of moorland and meadow, of grove, valley, and orchard, are very novel and extensive. ST. MELLION (population, 303), 5£ miles from Saltash, is interesting through its ancient Church, which possesses a more than ordinary number of old memorials. The effigies of the Corytons, of Newton on the Lynher, 3 miles west, are striking and worth study. The east window is filled with stained glass. From a point beyond Yiverdon Down, turns aside the well- trodden highway to Cothele (Earl of Mount Edgecumbe), a fine castellated quadrangular pile of granite, temp. Henry VII., rising on the south-east slope of Kingston Down, and overlooking a rich breadth of hanging woods, which descend to the very bank of the Tamar. The interior is full of ancient tapestry, ancient armour, ancient carvings, and admission to it should certainly be pro¬ cured. Cothele has been visited by Charles H., by George HI. and Queen Charlotte, and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The Chapel contains some coloured glass, a crucifix, and a memorial to Sir Eichard Edgecumbe. About 3 miles beyond Viverdon Down, a path to the right, across the Common, leads to Dupath Well, a crystal stream arched over by a small baptistry. It is built of granite, is garlanded with ferns and grasses; and seems hoary with the winters of at least 600 years. Ten miles from Launceston, and 214 miles from London, in a somewhat dull and apathetic district, but supported by the mines in its neighbourhood, lies CALLINGTON (population, 2173. Inn: Golding’s), at the base of Kit Hill, an elevation of granite, 1067 feet above the sea. The Church, dating from 1450-60, contains some good memorials—especially a monument, with effigy and figures, in alabaster, to Lord Willoughby de Broke. The Radmore and Holmbush Mines may be visited from hence. Three miles beyond, STOKE CLIMSLAND (population, 2422). Church uninteresting, left of the road. At 1J m. the road crosses the Inny. At 800 yards more, we reach the Sportsman’s Arms, a neat and humble hostelry. To the east lie the Carthamartha Rocks, a picturesque disruption of the limestone, commanding a magnificent prospect. 104 FROM PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE. Route 6 . 5 miles, LAUNCESTON. (See page 95). 1 mile, St. Stephen’s. 2 miles, Werrington (Duke of Northumberland). 9 miles, WHITSTONE (population, 409), a poor small village, which need not delay the tourist. At Bevil’s Hill, the road approaches very near the Tamar and the Tamar Canal. It then traverses a very uninteresting country to KILK1IAHPTON (population, 1078). The Church has many Norman details, but is mainly Early English in character. It contains memorials of the Earls of Bath, and a monument to Sir Bevil Grenville , killed at the fight of Lansdowne Field in 1643. In Kilkhampton churchyard, Hervey framed his “ Meditations among the Tombs.” In the neighbourhood, the principal features of attraction are Comb and Comb Valley, a shadowy ravine opening out upon the sea-shore. Of the once splendid mansion of the Grenvilles, Stow, near Comhe, the site alone is indicated by a dry moat. The house was pulled down in 1720 by the Countess Grenville. Moorwinstow Church stands upon the cliffs, a stately, vene¬ rable pile, mainly Norman in character. The rector, the Rev. H. S. Hawker, is favourably known as the author of some volumes of fresh and vigorous poetry, entitled “ Echoes from Old Corn¬ wall,” “ Records of the Western Shore,” etc. Stratton (population, 1839), and Bude Haven (population, 914), lie to the south-west. From Kilkhampton, the tourist may make his way to Hartland, and thence to Bideford, Barn¬ staple, or Lynton. ROUTE V.—PLYMOUTH to PENZANCE. By Road. Hints for a Three Weeks’ Pedestrian Tour. It is presumed that the tourist who wishes to explore the length and breadth of Cornwall will avail himself of the facilities afforded by the railway from Plymouth to Penzance ; and there¬ fore, in Route I., pages 1 to 95, we have entered into so full a description of the county that scarcely a point of interest or noteworthy place has been omitted. The details necessary for Route 5 . ITINERARY. 105 an examination of tlie nortli-western districts we have supplied in Koute II. (pages 95 to 101), Route III. (pages 101 and 102), and Route IY. (pages 102 to 104) ; and it now only remains for us, ere we part company with our persevering readers, to furnish a brief itinerary for the traveller who may desire to trudge through Cornwall a-foot. S o P '4 a <4 R** 2 3 o o Days. Stages. Dist. fi Place Placi **-• O o£ '* -1 c3 . N a pft. Excursions. Miles. Miles. Miles. 1st Saltash, p. 142. 4i 41 72f to Up the Tamar. 2d St. Germans, p. 3. 5i 91 671 to To East and West Looe, pp. 14, 15, etc. 3d Liskeard, p. 5. 8 171 591 4th Dubwalls, p. 16. 3 201 56£ to To St. Keyne. East Taphouse. 3 231 534 5th & 1 6th f West Taphouse. li 251 52 to To Boconnoc, p. 17. Lostwithiel, p. 22. 4 29 4S to To Bodmin, p. 17, and Padstow, p. 41. 7th (Sund.) St. Blazey, p. 45. 41 33J 43} St. Austell, p. 47. 41 371 391 to To Fowey, p. 24. Sth Grampound, p. 57. 51 431 33J to To Megavissey, p. 46. 9th &) 10th ; Truro, p. 61. 81 52 25 tty To the North-Western Coast, p. 28. 11th Perx-an Arworthal. 6 68 19 to To Iledrutli and the Mines, p. 76. 12th to To Penryn, p. 69, and 13th &) Falmouth, p. 69. Helston, p. 78. 10 68 9 to To the Lizard, p. 72-76. (Sund.) 15th Marzion, p. 83. 6 74 3 VO Round Mount's Bay, p. 83. 16th Penzance, p. 86. 3 77 to To St. Ives, p. 82. 17th to To the Lizard, p. 93-95. 18th To the Land’s End, pp. yl-92. 77 77 77 [The RETURN ROUTE will occupy three days, taking ST. IVES, BODMIN, CAMELFORD (diverge to Tlntaqel), CALLINGTON, and LAUNCESTON, as the jirincipal stages.] THE SCILLY ISLANDS. [A steamer plies between Penzance and St. Mary’s three times a-week. Distance W. by S.W. of the Land’s End, 25 m. Pop. of the Islands in 1881,—2315.] The granitic rocks, for they are little more, which compose the picturesque group of the Scilly Islands, are about 300 in number. Of these, 40 bear herbage, hut only five are inhabited. Those which form the parish of St. Mary are— Name. Acreage. Popu¬ lation. Name. Acreage. Popu¬ lation. St. Mary’s . . 1528 1500 St. Agnes . . . 313 190 Tresco . . . 697 300 Bryher . . . . 269 120 St. Martin’s . . 515 170 Samson . . . . 78 ? The SCILLY ISLANDS are supposed to have been known to the Greeks as the Cassiterides, or Tin Islands, and to the Komans as the Silling— a term first made use of by the geo¬ grapher Ausonius, and derived (it is said) from the Celtic Sulleh (Rocks sacred to the sun). Others, however, prefer as the original root the Cornish Silya, signifying “ the conger.” After the withdrawal of the Romans, who appear to have made use of them as secure places of confinement for dangerous criminals, they remained for many years the fastnesses of a 108 THE SCILLY ISLANDS. Excursion. small Celtic population, and it was not until the tenth century that Athelstan achieved their conquest, and annexed them to Saxon England. During the Civil Wars, the cavaliers of the west long maintained them for the king, and sheltered here Prince Charles, with Lords Capel and Hopton, after the defeat of the royalists of Devon and Cornwall in 1645. From hence the fugitives escaped to Jersey, eluding the vigilance of the parlia¬ mentarian fleet. Redoubtable Sir John Grenville, fortified them strongly in 1649, and, “doubting not to see Scilly a second Venice,” despatched from their ports numerous piratical cruisers, which inflicted serious injuries on the commercial marine of England. They rendered the passage of the Channel so dangerous to traders, that at length Blake and Sir George Ayscue were ordered, with a powerful fleet, to proceed to the Scilly Islands and drive out the royalists. Tresco and Bryher were speedily captured, and Sir John was compelled to surrender St. Mary’s in June 1651. These islands now form a portion of the Duchy of Cornwall, though how, or when, they were attached to it has not been ascertained. From the reign of Elizabeth to that of Victoria, they were leased to the old Cornish family of Godolphin, and the succeeding lessee or lord-proprietor, the late Augustus Smith, was unceasing in his efforts to improve the condition of his “ subjects.” The inhabitants are, of course, largely engaged in the fisheries, and have a natural aptitude for sea-faring pursuits. A strong, vigorous, and hardy race, their average longevity would he remarkable were it not for the numerous lives which the perilous seas annually exact. Of late years, and principally through Mr. Smith’s influence, fanning has been largely adopted, and the “early potatoes” of the Scilly Islands have become famous in the London markets. Oats and barley are grown to some extent, the wheat crops are poor and scanty. Many of the islets are numerously tenanted by rabbits, and samphire is found in large quantities upon the cliffs. Sea-wrack is the principal manure; and when dried, is also used as fuel. Wind and rain prevail to a great extent, and although at certain times the wind is violent it is always more or less of moderate temperature. The land is therefore covered with a peculiarly fresh and luxuriant verdure ; but to secure a garden, it is necessary to protect it by a wall of earth and a fence of brambles, otherwise Excursion. THE SCILLT ISLANDS. 109 the rude sea-breezes would soon uproot the choicest flowers and rarest plants. To geological inquirers, these “ wave-bound rocks ” will afford a field of interesting research. They are the off-shoots, as it were, of the granite-hills that stretch, like a huge spine, through Devon and Cornwall, and are said to have been anciently united to the neighbouring mainland by a breadth of slate—the submerged Lyonesse of the old chroniclers,—where “ All day long the noise of battle roll’d Among the mountains by the winter-sea; Until King Arthur’s table, man by man, Had fallen in Lyonness about their Lord, King Arthur.” Tennyson. The granite often assumes remarkably picturesque formations, and the red felspar, which is its chief ingredient, relieves the whiteness of the quartz, by its depth of colour. Chlorite, schorl, and hornblende are frequently to be met with, and occasionally specimens of lead, copper, and tin. The botanist will find numerous tribes of the beautiful fern family; especially the Osmunda Regalis, Aspidium filix fern., Asplenium Adiantiun nigrum, and Asplenium Ruta muraria. ST. MARY’S ISLAND (chief town, Hugh Town. Inns: Hugh House Hotel, Tregarthen’s)—the largest of the Scilly group —is about 9 miles in circumference. It may be easily “ circum- perambulated ” in a day. One of its most notable “ lions” is the Park, in connection with the Elizabethan fortress of Star Castle,* —so named from its eight projecting bastions. The date 1593, and the famous initials E.R., may be observed over the entrance. Through the gate you pass into the Park, to find yourself “ on a well kept path, winding round near the shore of an irregu¬ lar hill, among scattered boulders, and gorse and fern left to grow as nature pleases ; the slope on one hand descending to the rocky margin of the sea, on the other, rising ridgy and broken to the summit. Sheep are grazing, and a herd of deer startled by your approach scampers away into the dense brakes, and rabbits to their burrows. Had you imagined a park for * Here Prince Charles resided in 1645, and hither Cromwell sent the Unitarian divine, John Biddle, to shelter him from the persecution of the Presbyterians and Independents. 110 THE SCILLY ISLANDS. Excursion. Scilly, you could not have produced a more appropriate combina¬ tion of land and water, of vegetation to be in place of trees, and art to make it all subservient to recreation, though possibly you may wish there were no necessity for thick embrasured walls, or cannon on traversing platforms. St. Agnes, its tall lighthouse, and scattered cottages, are in view about a mile distant, and a group of islets beyond, and everywhere you behold the encircling ocean. The hill is about 100 feet high, and nearly a mile and a half round. On completing the tour, you perceive it to be a peninsula, connected with the larger portion of St. Mary’s by a sandy neck on which Hugh Town is built, in total disregard of consequences. The earliest settlers may have had the excuse of ignorance, but the present inhabitants, who go on building on the same spot, have a perpetual warning of what may happen in the Gugh, a small hill once similarly connected with St. Agnes. Now, at high water, it is an islet; and some day, if the future may be in¬ ferred from the past, the narrow isthmus of Hugh Town will be devoured by the sea, and isolate the pleasant park with its ap¬ pendages ; the tide has crossed it more than once, and washed away two fields”—(IR White.) The New Church stands at the eastern extremity of the High Street, and contains some memorials—removed from the old church, a now much dilapidated building—of Capt. Loades, of the ship “ Association,” and others who perished with Sir Cloudesley Shovel in the terrible shipwreck off the Gilstone Rock, October 1707. There are also the tombs of Henry Tre- lavmey, and Admiral Sir John Narborough , Bart., sufferers in the same 6ad disaster. This neat little fane was erected 1835-8, mainly at the cost of Mr. Augustus Smith. The castle and the church being the only objects of interest in I gh (or Heugh Town), let us now set out on an exploration of tl island. We shall pass the more noticeable features in the folic - ing order :— 1. Porcrasa Bay. 2. Buzza Hill, commanding a good view of the town be¬ neath, of a considerable part of the island, of the Pool and Road —an anchorage which is often studded by nearly 200 vessels— and of the perilous waters of St. Mary’s Sound, which separates the island from St. Agnes. 3. Dutchman’s Carn, and the abrupt rock beneath it of the Bluff. Excursion. THE SCILLY ISLANDS. Ill 4. Peninnis— i. e., the head of the isles—a noble pile of granitic rocks, built up like an impregnable rampart against the powers of the sea. “ Caverns, vaults, and niches are hung with ferns and lichen. Through those in a line with the wind rushes a howling blast; others are snug and sheltered spots, where you may repose awhile, and listen to the thunder of the waves ; some enclose small crystal pools, in others a strip of green water runs ceaslessly to and fro, altogether an inexhaustible source of won¬ der and admiration.” About midway up the slope lie the “ rock basins,” erroneously connected with the sacrificial worship of the Druids, known by the vulgarly absurd name of the Kettle and Pans. A similar cavity, but concave in form, is noticeable in the Elephant’s Tusk, a rock just beyond. Observe the Monk’s Cowl, a lofty block of granite raised on the very summit of the hill. A small hollow below the Tusk Rock is known as Pitt’s Parlour. 5. Piper’s Hole is a miniature cavern, pleasantly enlivened by a fresh and crystal spring. The island-belief is, that it is the extremity of a subterraneous, or rather subaqueous passage, which opens into another “ Piper’s Hole,” in Tresco. 6. The Pulpit Rock, over which projects a Sounding Board 47 feet long by 12 feet broad, should be ascended for the sake of the prospects obtainable from its summit. The old round tower to the left, 140 feet above the mean water-level, was used as a station in the Trigonometrical Survey. Crossing Carn Lea, you look down on Old Town, its ruined church and decayed castle, built, it is said, by one of the Earls of Cornwall, and keeping along the sandy beach, soon arrive at 7. Tolmen Point, the eastern point of Old Town Bay, and so named from the Druidical perforated stone (or tolmen) on its summit. 8. At Porth Minich, the beach is composed of white quartz, curiously contrasting with the encircling rocks of red felspar. 9. Blue Carn is midway between Hugh Town and Giant’s Castle. Its granite masses are indented with numerous rock-basins. 10. The Giant’s Castle appears to have been used as a British camp, and a tripple vallum is easily discernible. Near it, rests the huge but movable Logan Stone, 45 tons in weight, but 60 finely balanced, that it will obey the motion of a lady’s hand. Several Celtic tumuli crown the ridge of Sallakee Down, the neighbouring hill. 112 THE SCILLY ISLANDS. Excursion. 11. Porth Hellick, i.e., the Cove of Willows, is the spot where the body of the gallant Admiral, Sir Cloudesley Shovel, was washed ashore. His remains were first interred here, hut after¬ wards removed to Westminster Abbey. The pedestrian will find many things of note in this locality. The Drum Rock, another tolmen, or perforated stone ; Dick’s Carn ; the Clapper Rocks, with their multitudinous basins ; and on the height, towards the east, the Giant’s Chair, where, as old tradition tells us, Sat the Arch-Druid, in his lonely pomp, With wistful eyes fixed on the rising sun. 12. The Deep Point is the easternmost extremity of the island, and Pellew’s Redoubt commemorates gallant Lord Ex¬ mouth, who, when Captain Pellew, was commandant of the Scilly Islands. 13. Between New Quay and the crystal brook which ripples into Watermill Bay, lie some curiously stratified porphyritic beds. 14. Inisidgen Point (observe the barrow on its summit) is the extreme north-east of St. Mary’s. Here the tourist will ob¬ serve the tall circular tower of Telegraph Hill, 204 feet in altitude above the sea, and commanding a fine panoramic view of the whole island. The Longstone is a Druidic pillar, 9 feet high. 15. Caru Morval, Porthloo Bay, and Parmellin Bay, com¬ plete our circumambulation of the island. In the interior, the tourist will do well to seek the summit of Maypole Hill, and having enjoyed the landscape it commands, to dip down into Holy Yale, a pleasant hollow, embowered with elms and sycamores, and enlivened with a few rustic cottages. Crow Sound, a channel in some places so shallow that at low water a man may securely wade across, separates St. Mary’s from TRESCO (population, 266), the second in size of the Scilly group. Its ancient name was St. Michael’s, and its principal village is called Dolphin, by an easy corruption of the name of the ancient lords, Godolphin. The Church, 57 feet long, 14 feet wide, and 12 feet high, possesses no special antiquarian or architectural interest. The Abbey is the beautiful seat of the lessee of the Duchy, Col. Dorrien Smith, and stands in grounds which are rich in blooms and odours. Two crystal lakelets add to their Excursion. THE SCILLY ISLANDS. 113 infinite charm, and the archaeologist will he interested in the flower-mantled ruins of the old Abbey, founded as early as the tenth century, and, temp. Henry I., attached to the opulent monastery of Tavistock. After examining these, and pacing through avenues of geraniums 15 feet in height, he may ascend the lull in the rear of the mansion, and survey with leisurely admiration, the isle-studded sea which gleams and glitters beyond. Chiefly to be noticed at Tresco are— Piper’s Hole, a remark¬ ably deep cavern, with a broad pool of water, and only to be examined in a boat, and under proper guidance ; Cromwell’s Castle, a circular tower 60 feet high, 20 feet in diameter, with walls 12 feet in thickness ; and the ruins of Charles’s Castle on the hill above, 150 feet above the sea. ST. MARTIN’S lies to the north-east of Tresco, and the north of St. Mary’s. It offers to the tourist’s inspection the shell- abounding locale of St. Martin’s Flats, on the south coast; Crcther’s Hill, 75 feet in altitude, on the south-east ; Tinck- ler’s Point and certain Druidic remains, on the west ; and east, St. Martin’s Head, 160 feet high, with a tower on the summit 40 feet in height, erected by a Mr. Ekens about 200 years ago, and known as “ The Day Mark.” From the summit you enjoy a most curious and beautiful view ; the small islets and rocks which make up the eastern group of the Scillies forming a sort of Archi¬ pelago, fantastic in form and dazzling in varieties of colours. To many of these islets the wayfarer may pass at low water with ease and safety, and there are few of them which will not repay a visit. The Sugarloaf, east, is 83 feet high ; Great Ganniley, 107 feet ; Menewethan, 47 feet; and the two Arthurs are marked by granite-covered tumuli. To the north lie the Seven Stones (13 miles from Hugh Town), a perilous reef pointed out by a light-ship—traditionally called “ The City,” and supposed to be the melancholy souvenir of that “ Lyonnesse ” which the ocean-waters, in the Long Ago, so completely engulphed. The Lion Rock, Plumb Island, and Pennagie Island lie to the north-north-west of St. Martin’s, and may easily be approached at low water. ST. AGNES (population about 179) lies 3$ miles south-west of St. Mary’s. At high water in spring tides the sea sweeps i 114 THE SCILLY ISLANDS. Excursion. through its valley, and divides it into two isolated hills, of which the north-eastern one is named the Gugh. Here there is a Druidic rock-pillar 9 feet long, fancifully named “ The Old Man Cutting Turf,” and several barrows covered, as is common in these islands, 'with slabs of granite, to protect from the winds, perhaps, their hallowed contents. The south-east part of the island is St. Agnes proper, and its coast is sufficiently picturesque to deserve a leisurely exploration. A curiously wrought cam, on the height above Warn a Bay, is known as the “ Nag’s Head,” and Camberdril Point is distin¬ guished by its sharp-pointed rocks. In Priglis (corruption of Port Eglise) Bay stands the Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, and erected about half a century ago on the site of a small building which dated from 1685, when the inhabitants piously devoted to its foundation the salvage-money received for saving a French barque from total loss. The Lighthouse, 72 feet high, exhibits a revolving light every minute and a half. The Cove is a famous fishing-ground, where the islanders often obtain the most astonishing “ hauls.” The Punchbowl Rock —on Wingletang Hill, beyond the Light¬ house—boasts of a “ rock-basin ” about 12 feet in circumference. Bryher Island —so named from M, Cornish, a hill—opposes on the west a lofty barrier to the seething waters of the Atlantic, and on the north throws out the striking promontory of Ship- man’s Head, 65 feet. From Watch Hill a noble prospect may be enjoyed. On the south side lies the Gweal, a small eight-acred “ isle of gulls,” easily accessible at low water. About a mile to the west is Scilly Island, a rock some 300 yards in diameter, which gives its name to the entire group. On the north-east a small and rugged rock is known as Hangman’s Isle. St. Helen’s (anciently St. Elid’s) contains the scanty ruins of an ancient religious house ; but its only inhabitants are deer, goats, rabbits, and sea-fowl. The coast scenery is of a romantic character. In Tean there is a large rabbit-warren, and the shore is dis¬ tinguished by some small coves of exquisite beauty. The triple-headed Menavawr springs 140 feet out of the sea, and is rarely picturesque in its natural features. Round Island, Northwithial, Mincarle, Maiden Bower, the lofty rock of Castle Bryher, Annette, and the -westem Excursion. THE SCILLY ISLANDS. 115 islets generally, insignificant as they are in point of size, offer details of interest to the hearty lover of the picturesque, and their inspection will pleasantly beguile a summer day. The Bishop Rocii lies in the extreme west (7i miles from St. Mary’s, and 32 miles from the mainland), and supports, for the benefit of the mariner, a noble lighthouse of granite, recently erected by the skill and perseverance of Mr. Walker. This “Tadmor of the wave”—this lonely sea-beaten Pharos—occupies the place of a structure of iron which, when all completed but the lantern, was washed away in the terrible storm of the night of the 5th of February 1850. To lay the foundation of the present building occupied two years. The stones were prepared at Hugh Town, and removed to the rock in a Trinity House steamer. The Gilstone Rock (near the small islets of Roseviar and Rosevean) was the scene of Sir Cloudesley Shovel’s shipwreck in 1705. That gallant old seaman, returning from the siege of Toulon, was driven off his course by a series of storms, and forced upon this fatal rock in a thick tempestuous night. His ship, the Association, fell to pieces in a few minutes, and a similar catastrophe befel the Eayle and Romney men-of-war ; out of the three crews only one man escaping, who, cast upon the Hell- wethers reef, remained there some days before he could be rescued. Upwards of 2000 lives were lost in this terrible dis¬ aster. Sir Cloudesley’s body was thrown ashore, stripped and buried by some fishermen, but afterwards removed to Westminster Abbey, where a stately monument commemorates his services and records his fate. The Scilly Islands, with their dangerous reefs and yeasty currents, have been fatal to many a goodly vessel ; and the islanders will relate to you many a wonderful escape and many a sad tale of suffering and death. But their more terrible features are not discernible by the voyager who steers among them on a summer day, and who will assuredly find his voyage a source of ever-changing and infinite delight, as he leisurely sails over the gently-rippled waters “ Between walls Of shadowy granite, in a gleaming pass.’’ 116 £UNDY ISLAND. Excursion. LUNDY ISLAND. [18 miles from Clovelly, where sailing-boats may always be obtained. Extent, 920 acres. Population, 144.] A trip to Lundy Island is one of those concessions which Clovelly naturally expects from its visitors, and on a summer day the sail is so pleasant, and the scenery of the lonesome rock- hound islet so full of romantic interest, that the custom is by all means to be honoured with due observance. Its length is 3 miles from north to south ; its breadth, from east to west, about J mile. The soil is almost wholly devoted to pasturage. On the coast, the more remarkable points are—the Hen and Chickens reef, north, and the isolated rock of the Constable ; Lamatry, and Eat Island, south ; the Seals, Gannets, and Gull Rocks, east; and on the west, the savage chasm of the Devil’s Lime¬ kiln, with the rock of the Shutter opposite its seaward mouth, as if designed to block it up. The Lighthouse, on the south coast, erected in 1819, is about 560 feet above the sea-level. A family named Morisco were long the proprietors of this wild demesne, and one of them having plotted against Henry III. fled lutlier for safety. For some years he and his comrades led a rude buccaneering life, but were eventually captured by the king’s cruisers, and duly executed. Edward II. according to a wild tradition, is said to have taken refuge here from the fangs of “ the She-Wolf of Anjou,” and her confederates. During the Civil War Lord Saye and Sele occupied it with a small Royalist garrison. It was captured by the French, in the time of William HI., by a singular ruse de guerre. A vessel of war, under Dutch colours, hove to in the roadstead, and daily purchased supplies of milk from the islanders for the captain, who was declared to be grievously ill. His malady increased upon him, and at length he died. The crew then requested permission to lay his remains in the churchyard, and the islanders assenting, the coffin was landed and duly conveyed to the church. On pretence that strangers, according to their national customs, were never per¬ mitted to witness the rites of sepulture, the islanders were turned out of the sacred building ; but to their terrible surprise, in a few moments the door was thrown open, and out upon them rushed , THEVOSE HEAD. ,’i*v ZO-i£tt!nH < fuiaR ** ^ t SMvvnl. Bodruthan^S Li ’Mawgap. PjJj'tlv I i: Beacon 'C&^S J)en*>0. ' • ..YajunvUvJiti JT7WM’ i’ri'urTtftilnilhi ielBu*t\ 3* ;>r< ifnisps'Hcr Gadrevy I. »uh>- Trakfinp *. ,j Tro*qrl+y'^/? SFreswrt Snnamx' Tresjnr. $ 0 P& 3 rX ■ Lit; \ , »en‘rtji.s | v i Carnhi , Gredin orrid The RTv# or Three Stone Oar- BendeenWatch. If a i Batn KemJiadc (uxUeiJSt Pormledjen twvA V/<7"i-ff TfrnxfrP* I Manaixjui' 1 \Gam JKi. Iron (rrittet • O Cam du t Bo.*hen/u Fean^r* irhon-J* CasHc Mou f roue a / /><»07U/ fovepadc Cove Brlhtrrian Ctnl# tymmhal* /’ " \JlrandiseR} iimli'w'^lnafk BetJjrt'l** CORNWALL. (west section) - - -tfewlafi'd J PentireSrl I’adgf ! Scale ot Miles GaOamLlha' I Constantine21.J /? Ttyyainph BoriHinrne &^K Fink H j JlV' W at e t B 1uh,ry\m H °fcW . 77ir I'dTtfliE y Pmiuxlt LitjtjerlPi Lig£eln oi Piran Bav ratal $1 J%aa&? 9 s*/y7, 3oden ytwnance / S* Allies lirruf ( hapcl CoiU L ,' The Stance ' J> ' ,0/ 9>A’. ■* / GVs ' **£■ '' >1^/, Ecuil, Jtf • ^ - ,, •<. * % aV lve > r«w 'v ' -v./, •v. /y/yy l>nv L«-v ' t>u Wall •''rum ' ^ l wiij 1 i l«ir« ( rea*He i White stui) /V./-n /,^ u sv/? B j*! HANDS KV[) . nut 2 n .-/ini'* awt' /•..I, ' -^1. sS'Martm^*"^' { * In. Men' oqe V& ttinBn / \ «T 1 .» r\J^-- - J**tt\0**rar. t eorrn i:.•■ . i 'Lit. Wrra ■ .*>) H"' Mull ion /‘* llll' l\ Hl .lll Creorqes (tWe Vr.'l„n hi hue irra*o HiR licit ('nujqan R k ' TUSE&iw. fAiii Excursion. LUNDY ISLAND. 117 the Frenchmen, armed with the weapons they had concealed in the so-called coffin. The inhabitants could make no resistance, and were compelled to witness the savage desolation of their homesteads in WTathful silence. After plundering them of their very clothes, and destroying or taking away their flocks and herds, the freebooters retired, and abandoned them to their misery. The island which is part of the county of Devon was sold in 1840 for nearly £10,000. The ruins of Morisco’s Castle and St. Anne’s Chapel are the only antiquities it possesses. INDEX Acton Castle, 93. Advent, 29. Alternon, 99. Annette Isle, 114. Apron String, 94. Armed Knight Rock, 92. Bake Manor, 4. Balleswiddon Tin Mine, 93. Beacon Hill, 19. Beggar’s Island, 2. Bellurian Cove, 94. Berry Tower, 19 Bessie’s Cove, 93. Bishop Rock, 115. Blacketon Hill, 5. Blackhead, 56, 75. Bliss land, 28. Blue Carn, 111. Bluff Rock, 110. Boconnoc House, 23. Boconock, 17 Bodmin, 17. Bodrigan’s Leap, 56. Bodrothan Steps, 43. Bohechtand, 68. Boscastle, 30. Boskednan Ring, 89. Boskenna, 91. Bossiney, 33 Botallack Mine, 62. Bradock, 16. Bray Hill, 42. Breage, 94. Brisons, The, 92. British Remains near Rowtor, 100. near St. Tudy, 102. Bron Gilly, 100. Brown Willy Hill, 19, 100. Bryher Island, 114. Bude Haven, 104. Bumble Rock, 76. Buzza Hill, 110. Cadoewittt, 75. CaerthiIlian, 94. Calenick, 66. Callington, 103. Callion Cove, 75. Calliquoiter Rock, 59. Cambeak Head, 38. Camberdril Point, 114. Camborne, 81. Camelford, 29, 69, 102. Cam Morval, 112. Cape Cornwall, 92. Caradon Copper Mines, 6. Caradon Hill, 6. Carclaze Tin Mine, 48. Cardingham, 19. Carnanton, 60. Carn Barges, 92. Carn Barra, 91. Carnbrea Copper Mine, 77. Carn Creab, 92. Cam Glos, 92. Carn Kez, 90. Carn Lea, 111. Carn Leskez, 92. Carn Marth, 67. Carn Mellyn, 92. Cam To wan, 92. Carn Vesacks, 91. Carn Voel, 92. Carthmaitha Rocks, 103. Carumeus, Valley of, 46. Castle-An-Dinas, 59. Castle Bryher, 114. Castle Carnbrea, 77. Castle Horneck, 88. Castle Kenyoc, 17. Castle Kynoc, 19. Catch French Demesne, 4. Chacewater, 76. Chapel Point, 56. Charles’ Castle, 113. Chatham, Birthplace of, 23 120 INDEX. Cheese Rock, 92. Cheesewring Hill, 8. China Clay Works, 48. Clapper Rocks, 112. Clowance, 81. Coldrinick, 5 Comb Valley, 104. Consolidated Mines, 07. Constable Rock, 110. Cornelly, 5S. Cothele, 103. Coverack Cove, 75. Crantock, 44. Creed, 57. Cromwell’s Castle, 113. Crousa Down, 75. Crowan, 77. Crow Sound, 112. Cruther’s Hill, 113. Cuby, 57. Cuddan Point, 93. Davidstow, 101. Daw’s Hugo, Cavern, 76. Deep Point, 112. Delabole Quarries, 39. Devil’s Limekiln, 110. Devil’s Pit, 75. Dick’s Carn, 112. Doleoatli Copper Mine, 77. Dozmare Pool, 19, 54, 100. Druidical Remains near Liskeard, 8 ; Newtown, 90; St. Agues, 114 ; New Martin’s, 113. Drum Rock, 112. Dubwalls, 16. Duloe, 12. Dunmeer Castle, 28. Dupath Well, 103. Dutchman’s Carn, 110. East Huel Rose Mine, 66, 77. East Looe, 14. Egloshayle, 40. Eglos Kerry, 101. Elephant’s Tusk Rock, 111. Endsleigh, 99. Euys, 65. Fallen Cave, The, 92. Falmouth. 69 ; Harbour, 71. Fentowoon, 29. Five Lanes. 99. Flushing, 6S. Foog Hole, The, 90 Forrabury, 30. Four Hole Cross, 101. Powey, 24. Fowey Stream, 9 ; Source of the 100. Fraddon, 59. Gannets, The, 116. Garrah, The, 100. Garras Huel Lead Mine, 77. Germoe, 94. Giant’s Castle, 111. Giant’s Chair, 112. Giant’s Quoit, S9. Giant’s Staff, 55. Gilstone Rock, 115. Glynn, 16 Godrevery Island, 81. Gorran Haven, 56. Grade, 75. Grampound, 57 Grone Hill, 71. Gue Graze, 94. Guelas, The, 92. Gull Rocks, 116. Gulval, 89. Guinb’s Rocks, Site of, 8. Gunwalloe, 94. Gweal Isle, 114. Gwennap, 67. Gyllyugdeme, 71. Halgaver, 19. Hangman's Isle, 114. Hayle, SI. Helford River, 74. Heligan, 56. Helston, 78. Hen and Chickens Reef, 116. Hensbarrow Beacon, 55 Hensbury Hill, 19. Hewas Tin Mine, 56. High Cliff, 38. Hilland, 2S. Holed Stone, The, 89. Holeshow, 94. Holloway Cross, 99. Holy Vale, 112. Househole Bay, 75. Huel Barret Copper Mine, 77. Huel Buller Copper Mine, 77. Huel Francis Copper Mine, 77. Huel Garras Mine, 66. Huel Seton Copper Mine, 77. Hugh Town, 110. Hunter Gantick Valley, 28. Hurlers, The, 8. Inisidgen Point, 112. Innis Head 75. Inny Stream, 99 Irish Lady Rock, 92. Jamaica Inn, The, 99. Kelly Rounds, The, 102. Kenegie, SS. lvennack Cove, 75. Kennal Stream, 67. Kilkhampton, 104. Killiganoon, 65. Killiow, 65. Kilmarsh, 9. King Arthur’s Castle, 59 ; Huntin ground, 59. INDEX. 121 Kit Hill, 103. Kynance Cove, 94. Ladock, 59. Lamatry, 116. Lamorna Cove, 90. Landewednack, 76. Land’s End, 92. Laneast, 101. Lanherne Nunnery, 43. Lanyon, Cromlech, 89 Lariggan, 88. Launceston, 95. Leseaddoc Castle, 88. Lezant, 99. Lion Rock, 113 Lion's Den, 75. Liskeard, 6. Little Bounds Mine, 92. Little Petheriek, 41. Lizard, The, 76, 95. Llanhydrock, 21. Llanhydrock House, 20. Logan Stones, 46, 91, 100, 111. Longship's Lighthouse, 92. Longstone, The, 112. Looe, 14. Loo Pool, 79. Lostwithiel, 22. Lower St. Coluinb Portli, 44. Ludgvan. 89. Lundy Island, 116. Luxulyan, 22. Lych-Stone, 91. Madron, 87, 89. Maiden Bower, 114. Maid's Pool, The, 92. Malpas, 66. Manaeean, 74. Manack Point, 91. Manacles Rocks, 75. Marazion, 83. Mawgan, 43, 74. Maypole Hill, 112. Megavissey, 46. Menabilly, 27. Men-An-Tol, The, 89. Menavawr, 114. Meuewethen, 113. Menheniot, 5. Men Scryffen, The, 89. Merry Maidens, The, 90, 93. Merthyr, 58. Mieliaelstow, 29. Mill Bay, 92. Minearle, 114. Mines, vi. ; Balleswiddon, 93 ; Botal- lack, 92 ; Caradon, 6 ; Carclaze, 48 ; Carnbrea, 77; Consolidated, 67; Dole- oath, 77 ; East Huel Rose, 66, 77 ; Garras Huel, 77 ; Hewas, 56; Iluel Barret, Buller, Francis, Seton, 77; Little Bounds, 92 ; Polglook, 56; K Restonnel, 19; Tresavean,77; United 67. Monk’s Cowl Rock, 111. Moorwinstow Church, 104. Moriseo’s Castle, Ruins of, 117. Morval, 4. Mousehole, 90. Mullion, 94. Mullion Cove, 94. Mylor, 68. Nag’s Head, The, 11 1. Nancealvetne, 88. Nase Point, 74. Naushoe House, SO. Newlyn, 90. New Quay, 44. Northill, 98. Northwithial, 114. Old Lizard Head, 95. Old Town, 111. Padstow, 41. j Paidenick, 92. I Par, 45. Parmellin Bay, 112. Paul Hill, 90. Pedn an Laaz, 92. Pedn Mean an Mor, 91. Pedn Men Dhu, 92. Pellevv's Redoubt, 112. Pelynt, 14. Penair, 61, 65. Penberth Cove, 91. Penearlenich, 65. Penearrow, 28. Pendarvcs, 81. Pendennis Castle, 73 Pendrea, 88. Pengelly, 39. Pengersie, 94. Pengreep, 07. Peninnis, 111. Penkinna Head, 3S. Pennagie Island, 113. Penolver Head, 75. Penrice, 55. Penrose, SO. Penryn, 69. Pentillie Castle, 102. Pentire Point, 3S. Penzance, 86. Perran Arworthal, 67. Perranuthnoe, 93. Peverell’s Cross, 101. Pigeon’s Hugo, 94. Piper’s Hole, 113. Pistol Meadow, 95. Pitt's Parlour, 111. Place House, Fowey, 26. Place House, Padstow, 42. Place House, St. Anthony, 73. Plumb Island, 113. Polbathieck, 3. 122 Poiglook Mines, 56. Poljew, 94. Pol Ledan, 91. Polostoc, 91. Polpeer, 95. Polperro, 14. Polprv, 92. Polwhele, C4. Pontewan, 55. Porerasa Bay, 110, Por Loe, 91. Port Eliot, 4. Portlieurnow, 91. Porth Hellick, 112. Porthleven, 94. Porthloo Bay, 112. Porth Minich, 111. Porthqueen, 39. Port Isaac Bay. 38. Port Mawgan, 43. Portmeilin, 56. Pousondine. SS. Pradanack Head, 94. Prideaux, 45. Priglis Bay, 114. Probus, 67. Prussia Cove, 93. Pulpit Rock, 111. Punchbowl Rock, 114. Rat Island, 116. Redruth, 77. Redruthan Steps, 43. Restormel Castle, 21; House, 21. Restonnel Mine, 19. Restronguet Creek, 67. Rialton Priory, Remains of, 44. Rill, The, 94. Roche, 54, 55. Rose Hill, SS. Ilosemullion Head, 74. Round Island, 114. Rowtor Height, 100. Ruan Lanihorne, 57. Ruan Minor, 75. Rundlestone, The, 91. St. Agnes, 113. St. Anthony, 72. St. Anthony in Meneage, 74. St. Austell, 47. St. Blazey, 45. St. Breocks, 40. St. Breocks Down, 41. St. Breward, 2S. St. Bunyan, 91. St. Clea'ther, 101. St. Cleer, 10. St. Cleer Down, 10. St. Cleer, 17611 of, 10. St. Clement’s Isle, 90. St. Columb Major, 59. St. Columb Minor, 44. St. David's Battery, 24. St. Day, 67. INDEX. St. Enodoc, Church of, 42. St. Emey, 3. St. Gennys, 38. St. George’s Island, 15. St. Germans, 3. St. Gluvius, 68. St. Helen’s, 114. St. lllogan, 77. St. Issey, 41. St. Ives, 82. St. Juliot, Chapel of, 37. St. Just, 72, 93. St. Keverne, 75. St. Kew, 102. St. Keyne, 12. St. Levan, 91. St. Martin’s, 16, 113. St. Martin’s Flats, 113. St. Martin’s Head, 113. St. Mary’s Island, 109. St. Mawgan, in Meneage, 74. St. Maws, 72. St. Maw s Castle, 73. St. Mellion, 103. St. Merryn, 43. St. Mewan, 56. St. Mewan’s Beacon, 56. St. Michael Caerhays, 57. St. Michael Penkivel, 65. St. Michael’s Mount, 84. St. Muni’s Well, 99. St, Nectan’s or Nighton’s, 23. St. Neot, 9. St. Nighton’s Keeve, 32. St. Ninnie’s Well, 13. St. Paul, 90. St. Pennock’s, 16. St. Roche, 55. St. Ruan's Well, 75. St. Sampson's, 23. St. Stephen’s, 2, 9S. St. Teath, S9, 102. St. Tudy, 102. St. Veep, 24. ! St. Winncw, 23, 24. j Sallakee Down, 111. | Sandplace, 16. J Scilly Islands, 107. ; Scorrier Gate, 76. ; Scorrier House, 76. | Seals, The, 116. Sennen, 92. Sennen Cove, 92. Seven Stones, The, 113. Sharpitor, 9. Sharp Point Tor, 9. Sheviock, 2. Shipman’s Head, 112. Sisters, The, 92. Soap Rock, The, 94. Star Castle, 109. Stoke Climsland, 103. Stratton, 104. 1 Street-an-Nowan, 90. Sugarloaf, The, 113. INDEX* 123 Swan Pool, 74. Sydney Cove, 94. Talland, 14. Tean, 114. Telegraph Hill, 112. Temple, 101. Thankes, 2. Tinckler’s Point, 113. Tintagel CaBtle, 34. Tober Hill, 100. Tolman Point, 111. Tol Pedn Penwith, 91. Tor Balk, 94. Trebartha Hall, 98. Trebarwith Strand, 38. Trecarrel, 99. Treffry, Viaduct, 46. Tregehnn, 56. Tregendn, 71. Tregolls, 65. Tregony, 57. Tregotlman, 65. Tregrea, 56. Treherne, 58. Trelawney House, 13. Trelissie, 66. Trelowarren, 74. Trematon Castle, 1. Trenant. Park, 13. Trengwainton, 88. Trereife, S8. Treryn, 91; Castle, 91. Treryn-an-Dinas, 91. Tresavean Copper Mine, 77. Tresco, 112. Tresillian Bridge, 58. Tresmeer, 101. Tretown, 29. Trevaylor, 88. Trevena, 33. Trevetliy Stone, 11. Trevose Head, 42. Trewan, 60. Trewarthenick, 65. Trewavas Head, 94. Trewen, 101. Trewint Inn, 99. Trewit.hen, 58. Trewithin, 8S. Truro, 6J. Tuckingmill, 80. Two Barrow’s Hill. 100. United Mines, 67. Vell an Deeath, 92. Vellan Point, 94. Wadebridge, 40. Wallis, Captain, Birthplace, 29. Warleggon, 19. Watch Hill, 114. Wendron, 77. Werrington, 98. West Looe, 14. Wherry Town, 89. Whitstone, 104. Willapark Point, 3S. Wingletan Hill, 114. Written Stone, The, 89. Yellow Carn, 94. Zawn Kelly’s, 92. ADVERTISEMENTS BLACK’S GUIDE BOOKS Arranged Alphabetically according to Locality SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. {Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) Special Tourist Cabin Tickets issued during the Season, For One Week, £3 ; or Two Weeks, £5. Giving tlie privilege of the run of all the undernamed Steamers to any part of the Highlands where they may call at during the time specified. THE MAIL ROYAL STEAMERS COLUMBA Iona Mountaineer Clansman Claymore (New Screw Steamship) Islay Glencoe Inveraray Castle Chevalier Gondolier Staffa Fingal Pioneer Glengarry Linnet Lochiel Clydesdale Cygnet Plover Lochawe and Queen of the Lake. Sail during the season for Port Ellen, Port Askaig, Islay, Oban, Fort- William, Inverness, Staffa, Iona, Glencoe, Loch Awe, Tobermory, Portree, Strome Ferry, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver, Lochmaddy, Talbert, Harris, and Stornoway ; affording Tourists an opportunity of visiting the Magni¬ ficent Scenery of Loch Awe, Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona. *** These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, with all its Watering-Places—the Island and Kyles of Bute—Island of Arran—Moun¬ tains of Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre—Lochfyne—Crinan—with the Islands of Jura, Searba, Mull, and many others of the Western Sea—The Whirlpool of Corryvreckan— the Mountains of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kingairloch, and Ben Nevis—Inver- lochy—The Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near to where the clans raised his Standard in the ’45 —Loehaber—the Caledonian Canal— Loch Lochy—Loch Oich — Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the celebrated PALLS OP FOYERS. From Ardrishaig to Ford, the route passes through the picturesque valley of Kilmartin and by Kilmartin Castle, Carnassarie Castle, Bull’s Pass, Dog’s Head Loch, and Ederline Loch. The attractions on Loch Awe are numerous. There are twenty-four Islands, many of them richly wooded, and crowned by the ruins of four Castles and two Monasteries. At the foot of the Lake is the romantic Pass of Brander, where MacDougall of Lome encountered the Bruce, and where Ben Cruachan rises 3800 feet from the Awe. Books descriptive of the route may be had on board the Steamers. Official Guide Book, 2d. ; Illustrated, 6d. ; Cloth, Is. Time-Bill, with Map and Tourist Fares, sent post free on application to the Proprietor, David MacBrayne, 119 Hope Street, Glasgow. Glasgow, 1882 A 4 ABERDEEN-ABERYSTWITH-ARDENTINNY-BALLATER. ABERDEEN. FORSYTH’S HOTEL 90 TO 102 UNION STREET, ABERDEEN. M. & E. WALKER. ABERYSTWITH. QUEEN’S HOTEL T HIS Hotel is situated on tlie Marine Terrace, facing the sea, and con¬ tains several Private Sitting-Rooms, Coffee Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing- Room, Library, and all its Bedrooms are pleasantly situated. Table d’Hote at 6 o’clook during- the Season. Arrangements made for Families. TARIFF ON APPLICATION. W. H. PALMER, Proprietor. ARDENTINNY. ARDENTINNY HOTEL, LOCH LONG. M FERGUSON, for many years head steward of the Loch Long and Loch Goil . Steamers, has leased the above Hotel, which is beautifully situated on the banks of Loch Long, and at the entrance to the celebrated Glen Finart. This Hotel has been thoroughly repaired and elegantly furnished, and visitors are assured that every attention will be paid to their comfort. CHARGES MODERATE. Posting, with careful Drivers. Fishing Boats. BALLATER. INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT In connection with the Invercauld Arms Hotel, Braemar. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. COACH TO BRAEMAR DAILY ON AND AFTER 1ST MAY. M‘GREGOR. BANAVIE-BATH. 5 BANAVIE, BY FORT WILLIAM. LOCHIEL ARMS HOTEL. JOHN MENZIES recently lessee of the Caledonian Hotel, Inverness, begs to announce d to his Patrons and the general Travelling Community that he has taken a lease of this elegant and comfortable first-class Hotel. Banavie is the most convenient resting-place for Tourists desiring to join Mr. David MacBrayne’s steamer, which leaves Banavie Wharf for Inverness daily at 10 a.m. (except at the beginning and end of the season, when the steamer starts earlier) as they can then avoid the necessity of a very early start. Parties going Soutli can break the journey at Banavie and join Mr. MacBrayne’s “Swift Steamer,” which leaves Oorpacli during the season at 6.15 a.m., as also his “ Mail Steamer” from Corpach daily during the year at 9.0. a.m., for Oban, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and the Soutli, arriving in Edinburgh and Glasgow the same evening in time for the South trains. The Hotel forms a most convenient basis of operation for those who wish to ascend the far famed Ben Nevis, upon which an Observatory is about to be erected. A meteorological station has already been placed upon it. Guides for the ascent can always be obtained at the Hotel. TheHdrives and walks are unequalled in Scotland, and are as follows :—The Falls of Glen Nevis, Glen Fruan, Loch Eil, Loch Shiel, Loch Arkaig, Glen Spean ; the parallel roads at Glen Roy, Glen Col, and the ruins of Inverlochy, and Tor Castles. FAMILIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. First-Class Billiard and Smoking Room. Posting in all its Departments. Post and Telegraph Office adjoining. THE CHARGES WILL BE STRICTLY MODERATE. BATH, CHRISTOPHER HOTEL. JAMES ROBINSON, Proprietor. T HE oldest existing Family and Commercial Hotel in the City, situated in the High Street, close to the Abbey, Guild Hall, and Public Markets ; within five minutes’ walk from the Great Western and Midland Railway Stations. It commands an uninterrupted view of the picturesque hills of Bathwick and Hampton Downs. Every attention paid to visitors to this famous City, who desire to combine the comforts of a home with the freedom of a Hotel. yDi Omnibus meets every Train. Night Porter kept. Prices Moderate. BATH. CASTLE HOTEL: The Oldest Established aud most Central for Families, Private and Commercial Gentlemen. JOHN RUBIE, Proprietor. 6 BATH. PUMP ROOM HOTEL Is situated in the centre of the City, and connected with the finest suite of Mineral Water Baths in Europe, IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE THE GRAND PUMP ROOM AND ABBEY. This Handsome Hotel is replete with every accommodation, and is especially adapted for those requiring the use of the Bath Waters. The Wines arc earefully selected, and the Cuisine is under an experienced Chef. For Particulars apply to C. W. BADWAY, Lessee. BELFAST—BIDEFORD. 7 BELFAST. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. FIRST CLASS. BEST SITUATION. Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. W. J. JURY, Proprietor. BELFAST. ROBINSON'S COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 82 DONEGALL STREET. ESTABLISHED 1851. A FIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial Hotel. Conducted on strictly Abstinence Principles. Comfort, Quiet, and moderate Charges. Private Sitting Rooms and Show Rooms. HIGH STREET, BELFAST, First-class Family and Commercial, Is splendidly situated, being most convenient to Banks, Post Office, &c. TRAM CARS PASS THE DOOR. HANDSOME BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS. Omnibuses attend all Trains and Steamers, NIGHT PORTER. TERMS MODERATE. JOHN MANTELL, Proprietor. BIDEFORD, DEVONSHIRE. TANTON’S FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. PHIS Hotel is pleasantly situated, facing the river Torridge, noted for its Salmon, *- Trout, and other fishing. An Omnibus meets every train ; private Omnibuses and Carriages can be had at the hortest notice. BILLIARDS. N.B.— The Mail-Coach starts from this Hotel daily at 7.15 a.m., taking passengers, parcels, etc., for Clovelly, Hartland, and its neighbourhood. CHAS. E. CLEMOW, Proprietor. ad at Anderton’s Hotel, Fleet Street, London. 8 BIDEFORD—BETTWS-Y-COED. BIDEFORD. NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL. HENRY ASCOT, Proprietor. 'THIS, the oldest, largest, and principal Family and Commercial Hotel and . . Posting House, is pleasantly situated in an elevated and central part of the town, and commands extensive views of the River Torridge and sur¬ rounding country, and is eleven miles distant from Clovelly. PRIVATE SUITES OF APARTMENTS. COFFEE, COMMERCIAL AND BILLIARD ROOMS. POSTING AND LIVERY STABLES. Omnibuses meet all Trains. BETTWS-Y-COED. ROYAL OAK HOTEL. T HIS Hotel lias an unrivalled situation, and is very suitable as a centre from which the most beautiful scenery in North Wales may be visited. It is near the Station, I to which it has a private road. The coaches for Llanberis, Beddgelert, and Bangor, start daily from the Hotel. AN OMNIBUS MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FISHING TICKETS FOR ALL THE NEIGHBOURING RIVERS. I Billiards. Lawn Tennis. Archery. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. David Cox’s celebrated Signboard Picture. E. PULLAN, Proprietor (Ten Years Proprietor of the Crown Hotel, Harrogate). BETTWS-Y-COED—BLAIR-ATHOLE. 9 BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES. ME GWYDYB HOTEL. J'HTS Hotel, which is near the Railway Station, offers every comfort and attention to Families and Tourists. Tickets for fishing may he had at the bar. E. FAICIINEY, Proprietor. BLAI R-AT HOLE. THE TILT HOTEL. Within Five Minutes' Walk from the Railway Station. • ALEXANDER STEWART, Proprietor. fFHIS HOTEL, under new Management, is beautifully situated opposite the entrance of famous Glen Tilt, Blair Castle Grounds, and within walking distance of the Falls of Fender, The Salmon Leap, and other objects of interest. Visitors and Tourists honouring this Hotel will find every attention paid to their comfort and convenience, combined with moderate charges. POSTING IN ALL ITS DEPARTMENTS. The Drives include Glen Tilt, the Pass of Killiecrankie, Queen’s View, Loch Tummel, Loch Rannoch, Falls of Tummel, Falls of Bruar, &c. &c. Letters and Telegrams for Apartments or Conveyances punctually attended to. An Omnibus to and from the Station free of Charge. Parties hoarded hg the week at a reduced rate except during August. Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and other Excursions. 10 blair-athole. BLAIR-ATHOLE. ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL. Adjoining the Railway Station. No Omnibus necessary. T HE recently completed additions render this Hotel one of the largest and best appointed in the Highlands, while this year, by further refurnishing in the first style, no expense has been spared to enhance its reputation. Table d’Hote daily during the season in the well-known magni¬ ficent Dining Hall, with which is connected en suite a spacious and elegantly furnished Drawing-Room. Special terms for Board by the weelc, except during August. Blair-Atliole is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killiecranlde, the Queen’s View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar ; the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; the grounds of Blair Castle, kc. ; and it is the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. The Posting Department is thoroughly well equipped. Experienced Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and Mountain Excursions. D. & P. T. MACDONALD, Proprietors. BRAEMAR. THE INVERCAULD ARMS, The finest Hotel situation in Scotland. ecently re-erected after Plans by J. T. Wimpebis, Esq., Sackville St., London. MAGNIFICENT DINING HALL, ELEGANT LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM, AND NUMEROUS SUITES OF APARTMENTS. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Coaches during the Season to Blairgoivrie, DunJceld, and Ballater. Excellent Salmon Fishing in connection with the Hotel. Letters and Telegrams Punctually attended to. A. M'GREGOR. BLAIRGOWRIE-BRAEMAR. 11 BLAIRGOWRIE. QUEEN S jyjjrifagfe HOTEL. Established Half a Century. ''HE above long-established and first-class Hotel has recently been much enlarged - and improved, so that Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find in every comfort and attention. Blairgowrie is on the shortest and most direct route to raemar and Balmoral, the drive to which is very grand, passing Craighall (Col. Clerk- attray), one of the most picturesquely-situated mansions in Scotland. Post Horses id Carriages of every description, with careful Drivers. Charges strictly Moderate. Coaches to Braemar early in July. Passengers booked at the Hotel. An Omnibus waits all Trains. D. M'DONALD, Proprietor. Orders by Post or Telegram for Rooms, Carriages, or Coach seats, carefully attended to. 12 BRAEMAR. THE FIFE ARMS HOTEI BRAEMAR, BY BALMORAL. Patronised by Royal Family and Court. TV/TR. M‘NAB begs respectfully to inform tlie Nobilitj % Gentry, and Tourists, that the extensive additions to th ' Hotel are now completed. The Hotel, as now constructed comprises over 100 Bedrooms, a Dining Saloon (one of th largest and most elegant in Scotland), elegant Private Sitting Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, Billiard-Room, and Bath Rooms. Charges strictly moderate. Letters or Telegrams wi receive the most careful attention. Posting in all its varie< departments. Coaches during the Season daily from the hote to Blairgowrie and Dunkeld, and twice daily between Ballate and Braemar. Parties Boarded by the Week or Month. Note. — Gentlemen staying at the Hotel can have excellent Sahno or Trout Fishing. BRAY-BRIDGE OF ALLAN. 13 (IRELAND) INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, BRAY, County Wicklow. T HIS FIKST-CLASS HOTEL is situated near the Railway Station, Sea- beach, ancl Esplanade, central to all the far-famed Scenery of the . County of Wicklow. Visitors to this fashionable place will find The International Hotel i replete with every comfort, and the Cuisine and Wines of the best quality. All Charges arc fixed and moderate. ij Boarding Terms per week may be had on application to the Manager. C. DUFRESNE, Proprietor. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. THE ROYAL r HIS well-known First-Class Hotel has extensive and superior accommodation for Tourists and Families, with a large Drawing Room and Dining Room for Ladies nd Gentlemen, and beautifully laid out Pleasure Grounds. Charges strictly moderate, s situated close to this famous Spa. Its Central position makes it the most desirable esidence for visiting all the finest scenery in Scotland. Posting establishment com- lete. A 'Bus belonging to the Hotel awaits all the Trains. ROBERT PHILP, Proprietor. HOTEL. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. QUEEN’S HOTEL. This Hotel affords excellent accommodation for Tourists and Visitors. The Hotel *Bus meets all Trains. A. ANDERSON, Proyn'ietor. 14 BRIDGE OP ALLAN-CALLANDER. HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. BRIDGE OF ALLAN, NEAR STIRLING. EAUTIFULLY situated and sheltered by the Ochib on a dry and porous soil. The House is replet \ with every comfort and convenience. Elegant Suite c Baths. Terms, including all charges, £2 :12 : 6 per week. Applications to be addressed to Mr. M'KAY, House Superintendent BRIDGE OF ALLAN. CARMICHAEL’S HOTEL. TEMPERANCE. Within easy access of Callander, the Trossachs, and Loclilom Posting in all its Branches. Hotel ’Bus attends all trains. CALLANDER. THE DREADNOUGHT HOTEL {Adjacent to the Railway Station) TS the largest and best Hotel in Callander, and universally known to be one of the mos "*■ comfortable in Scotland. It is a most convenient residence for Tourists to th< Trossachs, Loch Yennachar, Loch Lubnaig, Loch Earn, Loch Tay, DalniaUy, etc., anc there is no better centre for Anglers. Visitors staying at this Hotel will receive per¬ mission to fish for Salmon over a considerable stretch of the River Teitb. Arrangement; as to boats and experienced boatmen made at the Hotel. Special terms made frn parties residing for a period. Posting in all its branches. BUXTON. 15 BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. rjTHIS Fikst-Class HOTEL for FAMILIES and GENTLEMEN forms the South Wing of the Crescent. It is only One Minute from Bailway Stations, and is connected by Covered Colonnade with the Hot and Natural Baths, Drinking Wells, and the New Pavilion and Gardens, where a splendid Band performs Four Hours daily. - THE ASSEMBLY ROOM in this Hotel, which has long been celebrated for its elegant proportions, has recently been redecorated in the first style, and is now converted into the DINING-ROOM OF THE HOTEL. Public, Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Booms. SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES. TABLE D’HOTE AT 6 P.M. FIKST-CLASS STABLING AND LOCK-UP COACH-HOUSES. . JOHN SMILTEK, Proprietor. 16 CARLISLE-CARNARVON-CHATSWORTH. CARLISLE. THE COUNTY AND STATION HOTEL, ITOR Families and Gentlemen, is connected with the Platform o the Central Railway Station by a covered way. Porters fron this Hotel are in attendance on arrival of all Trains. A Ladies' Coffee-Room. CARNARVON, NORTH WALES. THE ROYAL HOTEL (LATE UXBRIDGE ARMS), FIRST-CLASS FAMILY & COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT. Beautifully situated on tlie Banks of the Menai Straits, and in close proximity to the Railway Station. EDWARD HUMPHREYS. An Omnibus will regularly attend the arrival of each Train at the Railway Station. Billiards in detached premises. On and after June 19th, a Coach round Snowdon, after the arrival of the!9.25 a.m. train, viu Beddgelert, Vale of Gwynant, and the Pass of Llanberis, arriving at the hotel for dinner, and in time for the train for Llandudno, Rhyl, &e. CHATSWORTH HOTEL, EDENSOR, DERBYSHIRE. This Hotel is beautifully situated in Chatsworth Park, and within ten minutes’ walk of the princely residence of the Duke of Devonshire. The hotel is the largest in the neighbourhood, and its proximity to the Bowsley Station, on the Midland Railway, affords every facility to Tourists desirous of visiting the beauties of Haddon Hall, Matlock, the Mines at Castleton, Dove Dale, etc. Omnibuses from the hotel meet all the principal trains at Rowsley Station. A spacious Coffee-Room for Ladies. Private Sitting and well-appointed Bed-Rooms. Post-horses, etc. HENRY HARRISON, Proprietor ; in connection with ST. ANN’S HOTEL, BUXTON. Railway Station, Rowsley. Postal address, Bakewkll. Day Tickets for the Chatsworth Fishery. CHESTER—COLWYN BAY-CONWAY. 17 CHESTER. THE GROSVENOR HOTEL. I URST-CLASS. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Cathedral and other objects of interest. A Large Coffee-Room and Ladies’ Drawing Room for the convenience of Ladies and Families. The Bedrooms are large and handsomely furnished. Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the Trains for the use of Visitors to the Hotel. Tariff to be had on application. A Night Porter in attendance. DAVID FOSTER, Manager. COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. POLLYCROGHON HOTEL (Late the Residence of Lady Erskine). fJUilS First-class Family Hotel is most beautifully situated in its own finely-wooded park in Colwyn Bay, com¬ manding splendid land and sea views; there are miles of delightful walks in the adjacent woods. It is within a few minutes’ walk of the Beach and ten minutes’ of Colwyn Bay Station, and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. Sea-Bathing, Billiards, Posting. J. PORTER, Proprietor. CONWAY. THE CASTLE HOTEL. pURST-CLASS. Beautifully situated in the Yale of Conway, and very central for Tourists in North iVales. B CORK. lft IMPERIAL HOTEL, P. CURRY, Proprietor. THUS long-established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most approved and modem system. It possesses every requisite to promote i the Comfort and Convenience of Tourists. The Hotel contains OVER ONE HUNDRED BEDROOMS, Three Coffee Rooms, Commercial Room, a Drawing Room for Ladies and \ Families, Suites of Private Apartments, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, ■ Bath Rooms, &c. TABLE D’HOTE DAILY AT HALF-PAST SIX G’GLOCK. The Hotel adjoins the General Post Office ; as also the Commercial Building, where Merchants meet on “’Change,” and the earliest Telegraphic News is received, to the Reading Room of which Visitors to the Hotel have free access. It has been patronised within the last few years by their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales, Duke of Connaught, Prince Alfred, Prince Napoleon, the Due D’Orleans, the Comte de Paris, and the Count de Flandres, the successive Lords-Lieutenant of Ireland—Clarendon, Eglinton, Carlisle, Abercorn, and Marlborough—as well as by the Nobility, , and most of the leading Gentry visiting Cork. The Charges will be found most Moderate. The Imperial Omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of each Train. Extract from Sir CUSACK RONEY’S “Month in Ireland:” “Judge Haliburton (Sam Slick) says, ‘There are two things to be recom¬ mended to the notice of visitors to Ireland :—If you are an admirer of beautiful scenery, go to the Cove of Cork ; if you want a good hotel, go to the Imperial.’ The Hotel in question is situated in Pembroke Street, having an entrance also in the South Mall, through the Commercial Buildings, the splendid News Room of which is open to visitors to the Hotel. For conveni¬ ence and comfort there is not a hotel superior to it in the Empire.” CORK—CRIEFF—DAWLISH. 19 CORK. STEPHENS’ COMMERCIAL HOTEL ('Opposite the General Post Office, Cork) POSSESSES first-class accommodation for Tourists, Commer¬ cial Gentlemen, and Families. It is very centrally situated, being opposite the General Post Office—close to the Bank, Theatre, &c. &c. Charges extremely Moderate. WILLIAM D. STEPHENS, Proprietor, From the West of England. Extract from a “ Tour through Ireland,” published in the North Briton , 1864:— “ When we arrived in Cork we took up our quarters at Stephens’ Com- mercial Hotel, where we obtained excellent accommodation. “ What this Hotel lacks in external show is amply compensated by unremitting attention on the part of the Proprietors and their attendants to the comfort of their Guests. ” CRIEFF. THE DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL. First-Class. Renovated and Refurnished. Under new management. Families boarded by Week or Month. Large Posting Establishment. The Hotel Omnibus meets every Train. W. C. S. SCOTT, Proprietor. THE ROYAL HOTEL, DAWLISH. THIS Hotel is situated close to the Beach and Railway Station, and is the -*■ only Hotel with an uninterrupted Sea View. Public Drawing Room. Coffee and Private Rooms. Table D’Hote at Seven. BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS. C. BALL, Proprietor. 20 BERBY—DROGHEDA—DUBLIN (see also p. 22). DERBY. THE ST. JAMES’S HOTEL, I N the centre of the Town, facing the Post Office and Cora Market, is new and modern built, with every convenience for Families and Com¬ mercial Gentlemen. A Large Hall for Meetings, Wedding Breakfasts, Concerts, &c. Hot and Cold Baths. Stock Booms. THE NEW STABLING IS PERFECT AND EXTENSIVE. J. WAGSTAFF, Proprietor. DROGHEDA. WHITE HORSE HOTEL. J AMES J. 1M5APPOCK, Proprietor, begs to announce that, having greatly enlarged _ the ab<! 1 „ „ sillSi ^ ■oO^' 2 II P3 ’SS.M-g THE SHANDON HYDROPATHK FORT-WILLIAM—GLASGOW. 31 FORT-WILLIAM. THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL, PARADE, FORT-WILLIAM. Mrs. DOIG, Proprietrix. THIS Recently-Built First-Class Hotel is delightfully situated on the outskirts of the town, facing the sea, and commanding Magnificent Views of the surrounding mountains. Parties Boarded by the Week or Month. Every Comfort, with Moderate Charges. Visitors to the Alexandra conveyed by Omnibus Free of Charge to and from all the steamers during the season. N.B. —Steamer leaves Pier daily for Inverness about 9 a.m. GRAND HOTEL, CHARING GROSS, GLASGOW. r HIS magnificent Hotel, containing over Two Hundred Apartments, offers unrivalled accommodation to visitors. The Charges are strictly Moderate, and the'attendance ill that can be desired. Secretary and General Manager, W. G. DAVIDSON. Superintendent, ALEX. CAMPBELL (from M'Lean’s Hotel). NORTH BRITISH IMPERIAL HOTEL (AT THE QUEEN STREET STATION), GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. JAMES CUTHBERT, Proprietor. 32 GLASGOW, (LATE MACLEAN’S), FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN, 250 ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW. I MACGREGOR'S HOTEL GLASGOW. 33 (LATE THE QUEEN’S), GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. T^OR Families and Gentlemen. Finest and most central situation in the City, ^ opposite General Post Office and Exchange, and close to all the Railway Stations. Side Entrance to Terminus of the North British Railway and East Coast Route, via York, from London. D. M‘L4CRLAN, Proprietor. THE ROYAL HOTEL, GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. OPPOSITE THE GENERAL POST OFFICE. All Communications to be addressed to the Manager. BLAIR’S HOTEL, 80 BATH STREET, GLASGOW. PHIS New First-Class TEMPERANCE HOTEL, situated within Four Minutes’ walk L of the Priueipal Railway Stations, is unsurpassed for Cleanliness, Quiet, and 1 Jomfort. Private Parlours and Stock Rooms. Breakfast, Is. 0d. Is. 9d. 2s. Dinner, From Is. 9d. Bed Room, Is. 6d. Attendance, Is. 34 GLASGOW-GLOUCESTER. WASHINGTON TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 172 to 184 SAUCHIEHALL STREET, GLASGOW. A First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel, within Three Minutes drive of the Railways. Just added, Ladies’ Drawing Room, free of charge. Breakfast and Tea, Is. 6d. and 2s. Bed and Attendance, 2s. 9d. 4 GLASGOW. HIS LORDSHIP’S LARDER AND HOTEL, 10 ST. ENOCH SQUARE, GLASGOW. Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Teas ; Oyster, Fish, and Trite Suppers. Good Rooms for Dinner and Supper Parties. Excellent Bedrooms. Coffee-Room. Good Lavatory and Smoking-Room, i Charges Moderate. Opposite St. Enoch Station Booking Office. E. SALMON, Proprietor. GLASGOW. CITY COMMERCIAL RESTAURANTS AND VEGETARIAN DINING ROOMS, 54 AND 60 UNION STREET, and 42 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. Hi WO of the most extensive and comfortable Dining Establishments in Scotland, capable 1 1 -*• of accommodating upwai’ds of 2000 Visitors daily. Breakfasts, Dinners, and Teas served with comfort, economy, and despatch. Bill of Fare— Extra Moderate. LADIES’ PRIVATE DININQ ROOMS. GENTLEMEN'S LAVATORIES. No Gratuities to Waiters. MATTHEW WADDELL, Proprietor. GLOUCESTER. SPREAD EAGLE HOTEL. T TIIS Old-F.stnblishod First-Class Family Hotel will be found by visitors replete with every comfort. Well-ventilated Bed and Sitting Rooms cn suite.. Head-Quarters Bicycle Touring Club. Handsome Coffee Room. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. First-rate Cuisine and choice Wines, *c Good Stabling and Loose Boxes for Hunters, &c. An Elegant and Spacious Ball Room to be let for Balls, Concerts, Dinners, Meetings, Sales, &c. Tariff on application. Posting. Flys, Ac., on hire. 77, e Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains. A NIGHT PORTER ALWAYS IN ATTENDANCE. HENRY CHARLES GROGAN, Proprietor GLASGOW. 35 Noted House for Scotch Goods. NEILSON, SHAW, AND MACGREGOR, 44 BUCHANAN STREET, GLASGOW, SILK MERCERS, LINEN AND WOOLLEN DRAPERS, SHAWL IMPORTERS, AND GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN. DEPARTMENTS— British and Foreign Silks. Clan and Fancy Tartans. French and Paisley Shawls. Scotch and English Tweeds. Beal Shetland Shawls. Beal Aberdeen Winceys. losiery. Iloves. ’arasols. lerinoes, dburgs. Prints. Bareges. Alpaccas. Muslins. Cambrics. Grenadines. Eibhons. Paramattas. Flowers. Knitting Yarns. Feathers. Trimmings. Laces. Small Wares. Furs. Linens. Shirtings. Flannels. Bed-Ticks. Blankets. A Large Saloon for MANTLES, MILLINERY, LADIES’ OUTFIT, etc. MARRIAGE TROUSSEAUX of the Best Materials and Workmanship. UPHOLSTERY DEPARTMENT. ARPETS, OIL CLOTHS, WINDOW CORNICES, and CURTAIN FABRICS SCOTCH SHEETINGS, TABLE LINEN, etc. A FULL STOCK OF SUMMER COSTUMES READY-MADE, OR MADE TO ORDER AT A FEW HOURS’ NOTICE, For Coast and Traveling Season. FAMILY MOURNINGS. The Best Materials supplied in all the Departments. Competent Person sent to Residences in Town or Country to take instructions when required. TAILORING DEPARTMENT. For GENTLEMEN’S and BOYS’ SUITS, A Large Variety of Scotch, English, and German Tweeds, Heather Mixtures, etc., always in Stock. SHOOTING COATS, ULSTER COATS, HIGHLAND CAPES, etc., Made to Order on the shortest notice. FIRST-CLASS CUTTER ON THE PREMISES. This NEW DEPARTMENT applies also to LADIES’ JACKETS, RIDING HABITS ISTUMES, BODICES, and to MINISTEBS’ GOWNS and CASSOCKS.’ 36 GLASGOW. TOURISTS AND STRANGERS VISITING GLASGOW WILL FIND A LARGE AND WELL SELECTED VARIETY OF VIEWS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY, GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, &c. &c. AT EEID’S TOURIST EMPORIUM, 144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW, lI^T Fourth Shop West of Buchanan Street. _JgJi Speciality. —White-Wood Goods with views of Scottish Scenery —veryl suitable as Souvenirs of Scotland—from 6d. and upwards. SMITH, SMS, AND SILK MERCERS, FAMILY DRAPERS, COMPLETE OUTFITTERS, GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN, Carpet Merchants and Household Furnishers , 78 to 82 UNION STKEET, GLASGOW, Have always a Large, Choice, fully Assorted Stock ; and Novelties are added to each Department as they appear. GLASGOW-GOLSPIE-GREENOCK. 37 Pocket Telescopes, showing Jupiter's Satellites, Houses at 10 miles, etc., 7s. 6d. Extra High. Power Telescope, two Powers, Terrestrial and Celestial, with Tripod Sland, complete, iu Walnut Case, 30s. Large Brass Body Telescope, on Tripod stand, 3-in. Aperture, Terrestrial and ( ?i e l tl . al ,?7 e - p L ece ?% e * t / a quality, in Case, £6. Shows Jupiter’s Satellites and Belts, Saturn's Rings and Satellites, Double Stars, etc. The New Binocular Telescope. The best instrument made, without exception, for Sheep Farmers. Deer Stalkers Yachtsmen, or Riflemen. Highest possible power in a portable instrument combined with extra large field. Prices from £5 to £15; the instru¬ ment most frequently sold being one at £6; 10s. Extra High Power Field Glass, Superior Definition, in Sling Case, 30s. Miniature Field Glass or Opera Class, extra High Power, 12 lenses ; closed up measures 3J in. by 2J in. Post free cm receipt of P. O. Order for 21s. Miniature Field or Opera Glass, with 6 lenses, same dimensions as above. Price post free, 10s. 6cl. to any part of Britain on receipt of P. O. Order. Lanterns, suitable for Sunday Entertainments, from 42s. Liberal to Sunday School Societies. A few Second-Hand Instruments at Greatly Reduced Frices. Botanical Microscopes, from Is. upwards. Compound Microscopes, from 7s. 6d. to £150. Spectacles or Eye-Glasses, in Steel Frames, from 2s. 0d. Finest Pebble Spectacles, in Steel Frames, 7s. 6d. Gold, from 18s. Portable Cooking Apparatus, for Picnic Parties, and Travellers at Home or Abroad, from 4s. 6d. This article requires only to be tried to be appreciated. These Goods are all First-Class Quality , decidedly Superior to those Commonly Advertised. JAMES BROWN, 76 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow. GOLSPIE. ROYAL SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL B EAUTIFULLY situated within a mile of Dunrobin Castle, the Grounds of which are open to the Public. Free Trout Fishing on Loch Brora or parties staying at the Hotel. Five minutes’ walk from sea-shore. Horses and Carriages on Hire. An Omnibus meets Trains. Charges noderate. JAMES MITCHELL, Proprietor. GREENOCK. TONTINE HOTEL. First-Class Family and Commercial {Nearly Opposite the Caledonian Railway Station), GREENOCK. MRS. M'DERMOTT, Proprietrix. 38 GUERNSEY-HARROGATE. THE ISLAND OF GUERNSEY. GARDNER’S ROYAL HOTEL, FAMILY <£• COMMERCIAL HOUSE, ESPLANADE, GUERNSEY. 'T'HIS Hotel is situated in the most commanding part of the Island, facing the spacious harbours and the approaches thereto, also having a full front view of the adjacent islands of Sark, Herm, Jersey, and Alderney. Visitors should be especially careful on landing to ask for the “Royal.” Table d’Hote. Billiards for the use of visitors staying in the hotel only. JAS . B GARDyER> PropriHor , GUERNSEY. OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE. GARDNER’S PRIVATE HOTEL. T HIS establishment, being elevated above the town, commands a sea and panoramic view of all the Channel Islands. Visitors should be particular in mentioning the “ Old Government House.” Table d'Hote. Terms /v». nwnUmtir^ Terms on application. J. GARDNER, Proprietor GUERNSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS. VICTORIA HOTEL, FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL, C OMMANDS the finest sea view in the Island. The established reputa¬ tion of this Hotel is the best guarantee that every attention is paid to the comfort of its Patrons. Hot and Cold Baths always ready. A Moderate fixed Tariff, including attendance. Private Sitting-Rooms. Ladies’ Drawing-Room. Table d’Hote at six o’clock. A Porter in attend¬ ance on the arrival of Steamers. ,, T „ M. J. GREEN, Proprietress. HARROGATE WELLS. BARBER’S GEORGE HOTEL. VISITORS will find this Hotel conveniently situated, being within three minutes’walk ’ of the Sulphur and Cheltenham Springs, in the immediate vicinity of Public Baths, Concert Rooms, &c., and only seven minutes’ walk from the Railway Station. Harro¬ gate being a health resort, it is not expected that the patrons of this Hotel will use Wine, &e., if not required. The sheltered situation of this Hotel makes it admirably adapted for visitors in spring and autumn. Billiards. Excellent accommodation for Hunters, &c. TERMS.—Board and Lodgings in Public Room, each 6s. 6d. ; Board and Lodging in Private Rooms, each 7s. 6d. ; Private Sitting Room, 3s. to 5s. ; Attendance and Boots, Is. 3d. N.B .—Beds charged extra if for less than three nights. Horses’ Hay, 12s. per week. Ostler extra. HARROGATE-HELENSBURGH-HUNTER’S QUAY. 39 HARROGATE. ROYAL HOTEL. WILLIAM KEIGHLEY, Proprietor. ^HIS first-class Family Hotel is most pleasantly and healthily situated, and is replete with every comfort for families. Within five minutes’ walk of the Railway Station. BILLIARD ROOM. HELENSBURGH. T HE Finest Watering-Place in the West of Scotland. Trains and Boats to Loch Lomond and Trossachs, and Steamer every morning to Dunoon at 8.45, in time to meet the “ Iona” for the Highlands by that most celebrated Route — Ardrishaig, Crirmn, and Oban, to Staffa and Iona. The alterations and improvements at the QUEEN’S HOTEL are now completed, and the Suites of Apartments for Families cannot be sur¬ passed. The view of the Clyde and Lake is most magnificent. Tourists conveniently arranged. A magnificent Coffee-Room. Smoking and Billiard Room. All Charges strictly Moderate. Omnibuses and Carriages to all Steamers and Trains. A. "WILLIAMSON, Proprietor.- HELENSBURGH, IMPERIAL HOTEL. One Minute’s walk from the Railway Station and opposite Steamboat Wharf. All charges strictly moderate. Tourists for Oban would do well to stay overnight at the “ Imperial.’ Steamer leaves Helensburgh at 8.45 a.m., in connection with “ Columba ” or “ Iona ” at Dunoon. D. SMITH, Proprietor. HUNTER’S QUAY, HOLY LOCH. ROYAL MARINE HOTEL. (Headquarters of Royal Clyde Yacht Club.) OITUATED close to Hunter’s Quay, at which pier Steamers call several times a day A and is within ten minutes’ walk of Kirn Pier. Thu Hotel has lately been con¬ siderably enlarged, and is most comfortably furnished, offering superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. Charges strictly moderate. Visitors hoarded by Day or Week. Coaches pass daily by Lncli Eek Route to and from Inverary. There is frequent communication between Dunoon and Sandbank by brakes. Boats kept for hil ' e - DAVID HUNNINGS, Manager. 40 ILFRACOMBE, ILFRACOMBE HOTEL. “A MODEL'OF SANITARY EXCELLENCE.” THE ILFRACOMBE HOTEL, facing the Atlantic. Five Acres of Ornamental Grounds. 250 Rooms. Table d'Hote at Separate Tables daily from 6 to 8 o'clock. There is attached to the Hotel one of the largest Swimming Baths in England. Also Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. Every information will be afforded by the Manager, Ilfracombe, North Devon. HE attractions of Ilfracombe, and the places of interest in the neighbourhood, point to it as the natural centre to he chosen by > the Tourist who desires to see with comfort all the beauties of Coast I and Inland Scenery which North Devon affords. There is also easy access into South Devon and Cornwall. The means of communica¬ tion with Ilfracombe by Railroad and Steamboat are most complete. Tourist Tickets to Ilfracombe for two months are issued at all principal Stations. THE ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE. GOOD PUBLIC ROOMS. MODERATE TERMS. Address—The Manager. ILFRACOMBE-INNELLAN-INVERARAY. 41 ILFRACOMBE. ROYAL CLARENCE FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. 'DEPLETEwith every Home comfort. A spacious Ladies’ Coffee Room, with large number of Bedrooms, has recently been added. Large and Spacious Commercial and Stock Rooms. Moderate charges. Tariff on application. First-Class Billiard Room. Omnibus meets every Train. R. LAKE, Proprietor. A. B .—General Coach Office and Delivery Agent. INNELLAN. ROYAL HOTEL. TOHN CLARK, in returning thanks to his friends and the Public for past patronage, " begs to announce that the new additions to this already large and commodious [‘Hotel are now finished, and include one of the largest and most handsome Dining-Room and Ladies' Drawing Room of any Hotel ou the Firth of Clyde, also Parlours with suites of Bed Rooms on each flat. The Hotel is within three minutes’ walk of the Pier, and, being built upon an elevation, commands a sea-view of the surrounding country, including Bute, Arran, the Cumbraes, Ayrshire, Renfrewshire, and Dumbartonshire, making the situation one of the finest in Scotland. The grounds of the Hotel are laid out in walks and interspersed with shrubs and flowers, and are quiet and retired for families. There are also beautiful Drives in the vicinity. The Dining Room has a large Fernery, with water fountain which plays daily during the summer, making it cool and refreshing during the hot weather. SteameTS call at the pier nearly every hour for the Highlands and all parts of the mast. Tourists arriving at the Hotel the night before can have breakfast at Table VHote at 9 a.m., and be in time to join the “ Iona ” at 10 a.m., for the North, calling at nnellan on her return at 4 p.m. The Cuisine and Wines are of the finest quality. Large Billiard Room attached, lot. Cold, and Spray Baths. lorses and Carriages kept for Hire. Families Boarded by the Day or Week. INVERARAY. THE ARGYLL ASMS HOTEL, NTIRELY refurnished and under New Management, will be re-opened on 1st June 1882. Charges strictly Moderate. JOHN CLARK, Proprietor. 42 INVERNESS. THE HOYAL HOTEL. Opposite the entrance to the Railway Station. J. S. Christie begs to solicit the attention of the travelling Public to this large well-known First-class Hotel, which has been greatly enlarged, and now comprehends, besides extensive First-class Bed- Room accommodation, a SPACIOUS and LOFTY LADIES’ and GENTLEMEN’S DINING SALOON, with handsome DRAWING¬ ROOM en suite, and several elegant and handsomelv furnished SUITES of PRIVATE ROOMS ; also SMOKING-ROOM, HOT, COLD, and SHOWER BATH ROOMS, etc. Though immediately opposite and within a few yards of the Railway Station entrance, the Hotel is entirely removed from the bustle, noise, and other disturbing influences which usually affect the comfort of Hotels situated in close proximity to the Railway. Table d’Hote daily, and Dinners d la Carte. The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of all trains, and an Omnibus attends the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Posting. INVERNESS. INVERNESS. 43 CALEDONIAN HOTEL Two minutes' walk from the Railway Station. T HIS well-known first-class Family Hotel is patronised by the Royal Family and most of the nobility of Europe. The extensive additions are now completed, having added fifty rooms, with numerous suites of apartments for families, and all handsomely refurnished throughout. It is now the largest and best appointed Hotel in Inverness, and universally acknowledged one of the most comfortable in Scotland. MAGNIFICENT LADIES’ DRAWING-ROOM, OVERLOOKING THE RIVER NESS. SPACIOUS SMOKING & BILLIARD ROOMS. In point of situation this hotel is the only one overlooking the River Ness, the magnificent view from the windows being unsurpassed, and extending to upwards of fifty miles of the surrounding strath and moun¬ tain scenery of the great glen of “Caledonia.” Table d’H6te daily at 5.30 and 7.30. Sunday, at 5 o’clock only. An Omnibus attends all the Canal Steamers. The Hotel Porters await the arrival of all Trains. Posting. ALEXANDER M‘FARLANE, Proprietor. 44 INVERNESS. INVERNESS. WAVERLEY HOTEL, {Late Harcombe’s.) Centrally Situated and Comfortably Furnished. FIRST CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. One minute’s walk from the Railway Station. TARIFF. Breakfast (plain) Dinners, from . Tea (plain) Bedrooms, from Table d’Hote 1 6 2 6 1 6 The Boots of the Hotel attend all Trains, and an Omnibus the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Under New Management. D. DAVIDSON, Proprietor. WHEN YOU ARE IN Y0U SHOULD INVERNESS, SEE THE GREAT JEWELLERY ESTABLISHMENT OF P. G. WILSON, 44 HIGH STREET. V ISITORS are freely admitted to inspect the Shop and Manufactory, although they may not wish to purchase anything. The interior is about one hundred and twenty feet long, the front part of which is fitted up in the style of an Exhibition Room or Museum, thereby allowing the Visitor to walk round and see conveniently everything contained in the Shelves and Cases. The “ Press ” has described “ the whole as forming one of the finest places of business in the Jewellery and Watchmaking trade in the kingdom* JEWELLERY, PLATE, WATCHES. CLOCKS, BRONZES. OPTICAL GOODS, Ac.. Ac.. Of that superior quality which has won the fame of P. G. WILSON, the COURT GOLDSMITH and JEWELLER at INVERNESS, and extended his business connection to the Principal COURTS of EUROPE ; and he would desire to call attention to the fact, that while his productions and Articles for Sale are of the best quality, his prices are not higher than those of minor establishments, his object being to secure a large amount of patronage, and at the same time the approval of his customers. Orders by Post receive most careful attention. INVERNESS-ISLE OF WIGHT. 45 WHEN YOU AEE IN THE HIGHLANDS VISIT ISLE OF WIGHT. THE MARINE HOTEL, PARADE, WEST COWES. JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR. PLEASANTLY SITUATED, FACING TEE SEA. The comfort of Visitors studied in every way. N.B.—Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. SHANKLIN FOR SUNSHINE. HINTON’S EOYAL SPA HOTEL, Facing the Sea and under the Cliffs in the ISLE OF WIGHT. A sheltered and sequestered nook. 'Drawing-Room, Conservatory, Flowers and Birds. Table d’hote at 7. Separate Tables. 50 Bed and Sitting-Rooms. Billiards and Lawn Tennis free of charge, and constant Amusements for Families residing in the Hotel. r> ( From 3 Guineas a week in Winter. _. IE-so. | 3] Guineas „ in Summer. 46 JERSEY-KILLARNEY. JERSEY.—STOPFORD HOTEL. I rpHIS first-class Hotel, situated in the best part of St. Heliers, has for up- ' wards of forty years been successfully conducted under the name of BREE’S BOARDING HOUSE. It has recently been altered, enlarged, and improved, and is now the largest and best-appointed Hotel in St. Heliers. The Dining Room can accommodate one hundred persons, and is lofty i and well ventilated. The Ladies’ Drawing Room is unequalled by any in the Channel Islands. < ] Coffee Boom and Lavatory on the Ground Floor. The Cuisine is perfect, and the Wines excellent. Table d’Hote every day at Six p.m. PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, IF REQUIRED. Carriages of every description at a moment’s notice. Public and Private Dinners served in the best possible style. CHARGES MODERATE. For Tariff, etc., apply to E. BREE, Proprietor. KILLARNEY LAKES. By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission. THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL Patronised by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; by LI.R.H. i PRINCE ARTHUR ; and by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c. FT1HIS Hotel is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water’s edge, within ten minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. TABLE D’HOTE DURING THE SEASON. There is a Postal Telegraph Office in the Hotel. Hotel open throughout the year. Boarding terms from Oct. to June inclusive. JOHN O’LEARY, Proprietor. KILLARNEY-KILLIN-KILMUN. 47 KILLARNEY LAKE DISTRICT. THE MUCKROSS HOTEL COMBINED with strictly moderate charges, contains all that is necessary to U promote the comfort and convenience of visitors. It is situated in the most ;entral and beautiful part of the Lake District, and within fifteen minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, at which the hotel ’bus attends. Surrounded by pleasant walks and irives, many objects of great interest and beauty, this hotel will be found a most lesirable place to spend a few days or weeks. Angling. — The proprietor has arranged fortheuseof visitors good Salmon Fish- ng. There is also good Salmon and Trout Fishing on the lakes, which are Free, and uiglers can have boats from the proprietor without charge. Tariff and other particulars on application. Please be particular to observe the’bus you enter bears the name, THE MUCK- HOSS HOTEL. LOCH TAY, PERTHSHIRE. KILLIN HOTEL. By Callander and Oban Railway, one of the grandest lines in Scotland for Scenery. r HIS Hotel is situated on the banks of the Lochay, at the head of Loch Tay, amongst some of the finest scenery in Scotland, including •'inlarig Castle, the burial-place of the Breadalbane family, Inch Buie, he burial-place of the old Clan M‘Nab, and the Falls of Lochay, Auch- nore House, Kinnell House, the romantic Glen Lyon, Glenlochay, Glen lochart, Ben Lawers, and Ben More. Parties Boarded during May and une. Salmon fishing begins 5th February and ends 31st May. Trout shing Free. Coacli runs between Killin, Kenmore, and Aberfeldy, to leet trains north and south from each end. Posting Establishment complete. Parties staying at this Hotel can make the tour through the Trossachs nd back by Loch Lomond and Glenfalloch in one day. ’Bus from Hotel meets North and South Trains. ALEXANDER STUART, Proprietor. KILMUN HOTEL. HEAD OF HOLY LOCH, ARGYLLSHIRE. (NEW TOURIST ROUTE.) PHIS Hotel has undergone thorough repair, and is under new Manage* *- ment; the nearest and most direct landing place for Loch Eek, trarliur, St. Catherine’s, and Inveraray, for which Route Coaches arrive nd depart from the Hotel daily. Posting in all its Branches. N.B .—Special Terms for Parties Boarding. Mrs. A. REID (Late of Balloeh), Proprietrix. 48 KINGSTOWN-LAKES (ENGLISH). KINGSTOWN. ROYAL MARINE HOTEL, KINGSTOWN. FIRST CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Faces Dublin Bay and Kingstown Harbour. Two minutes from Royal Mail Packet Pier. FOURTEEN MINUTES FROM DUBLIN BY RAIL. » LUGGAGE PER MAIL SHOULD BE LABELLED “KINGSTOWN.” KENDAL, WESTMORELAND. KING’S ARMS HOTEL M’HIS old-established and First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel—the oldest in the north—is most centrally situated for visiting Levens Hall and the romantic vale of Longsleddale, and twenty minutes by train to Windermere. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. JAMES BELL, Proprietor. PENRITH. CROWN HOTEL. Tj’AMILT and Commercial Hotel, containing Ladies’ Coffee Room and Billiard Room. P Via Penrith is the best route to the whole of the Lake District; Ullswater Lake, one of, if not the most beautiful and picturesque, being distant only six miles, to which a coach runs four times daily during the season from this Hotel, meeting the Lake steamboat and trains. In the immediate vicinity of the town are Lowther Castle, the magnificent seat of the Earl of Lonsdale ; Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham, &c. &c.; and amongst other antiquities are Long Jleg and her daughter, the extensive and tine ruins of Brougham Castle, King Arthur's Round Table, &c. &c. Hawes Water and Airey Force are also within easy distance. An Omnibus meets ever Train. Post Horses, Carriage, &c. W. E. SIDDLE, Proprietor. 49 LAKES (ENGLISH). Em T I4i yJiitkL Trmm TriialM! E gpliS 3® Sfgpf CONISHEAD PRIORY HYDROPATHIC MANSION, near ULVERSTON. HOT, COLD AND TURKISH, SEA AND LAKE WATER BATHS. Summer Terms, Board and Baths, commencing 1st April, £3: 3s. per Week. “Thr Scotsman” writes — “Conisliead Priory, known far and wide as one of the finest of old English mansions, is now opened to the public as a Hydropathic Establishment. Visitors to the English Lake District will not fail to recall the architectural beauty and enviable situation of the building. The Establishment will be specially welcome to persons who may be in search of healthful relaxation, or of the beautiful in nature. The grounds are, on one side, washed by the waters of the sea, and the house is yet by its happy situation sheltered from the violence of the storm coming either from landwards or seawards. The attraction of the place is enhanced further by the fact, that the Priory is set down at a spot specially convenient for making the tour of the Lakes. The grounds in connection with the Priory extend to 150 acres, about sixteen of which are beautifully laid out in garden and shrubbery, and include excellent croquet and tennis lawns and a bowling-green.” The Guide-Books for the district refer to the Priory as “The Paradise of Furness." Excursions can be made from the Priory, either by coach or rail, to any part of the English Lake District, returning in the course of the day ; and Excursion Parties are arranged on extremely moderate terms. Lawn Tennis, Croquet, Bowling, and the Scotch Game of Golf, r to Charles Shepherd, Manager, Waterloo Quay, Aberdeen. C. 98 STEAMERS. DUBLIN & GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY The Company’s splendid Saloon Paddle Steamships— Duke of Argyll, Duke of Lei} ster, Lord Clyde, Lord Gough, or other Steamers, are intended to Sail, unless prevente by any unforeseen occurrence, to and from Glasgow & Dublin, calling at Greenock. SAILINGS AS PER MONTHLY BILLS. GLASGOW to DUBLIN. —Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every altemat Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. DUBLIN to GLASGOW. —Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every altemat Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Train from Central Station, Glasgow, at 6.3 p.m.; Steamer leaving Greenock about 7.30 p.m. Fares.—From Glasgow (including Steward's Fees), Cabin 15s.; Ditto (includin Rail to Greenock), 16s. 3d; Return Tickets (available for Six Months), £1:2:6; Ditt (including Rail to Greenock). £1; 5s. Steerage fare from Glasgow, 6s. including railt Greenock), 6s. 9d. Return Tickets (available for six months), 10s. (including rail t Greenock), 11s. 6d. Through Express Train (per Caledonian Railway) from Leith at 4.3 p.m., and from Edinburgh (Princes Street Station) at 5 p.m. to Greenock in direct coi nection with the Dublin Steamer. Passengers are also booked through from the follow ing Railway Stations to Dublin, and vice versa, viz.— Single. Return, avail¬ able for 2 mths. Single. Return, avail able for 2 mtht 1st cl. 3 cl. & Strage. 1st cl. 3 cl. & Strage. 1st cl. 3 cl. & Strage. 1st cl. 3 cl. t Stragi s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. 19 1 8 7 26 4 13 2 Forfar. 30 0 13 10^ 40 o io in Arbroath... 30 8 14 3i 40 10 20 5 Hamilton... 17 3 27 0 12 9 Aberdeen .. 39 G 18 8 51 11 25 10 Inverness... 48 6 23 3 73 2 23 6 10 7i 31 11 15 10 Leith. 20 0 8 6 30 o 14 n Callander .. 21 0 9 9“ 2S 9 14 8 Montrose... 33 6 15 S 44 5 22 1 Dundee (W.) 2S 0 12 11 37 6 IS 7 Perth. 24 6 11 3 33 2 16 6 Dumfries... 27 9 12 10 42 11 21 5 Paisley. 16 3 6 9 25 0 11 6 Edinburgh. . 20 0 S 6 30 0 14 0 Stirling. 19 0 8 5 26 3 13 0 Booking Office at Dublin for Passengers— 1 Eden Quay. Chief Office and Stores- 71 North Wall, Dublin. Goods carried at Through Rates from Glasgow and Greenocll to Inland Towns in Ireland; and also from a number of the Principal Railway Station! in Scotland to Dublin and Inland Stations in Ireland, and i>ice versa. Further pai ticulars, Monthly Bills, of Agents in the districts which the Views illustrate. 100 MISCELLANEOUS. In Folio, Half-bound Morocco, Gilt Edges, Price £3 : 3s. CONTENTS. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS COUNTRIES. THE MAPS. The Flags of all Nations ( Frontispiece ). 1, 2. The World in Hemispheres. 3 ] World on Mercator’s Projection. 4. Physical and Ethnographical Charts. 5. Zoological and Botanical Charts. 6. Celestial Hemispheres. 7. Solar System, the Seasons, etc. 8. Europe. 9. 10. England and Wales. 11, 12. Scotland. 13. Ireland. 14. France. 15. Switzerland. 16. Holland, Belgium, and Luxemburg. 17. 18. German Empire. 19. Austria-Hungary. 20, 21, 22. Sweden, Norway, & Denmark. 23. ’ Russia in Europe. 24. Spain and Portugal. 25 Italy 26) Turkey in Europe, Roumania, Servia, 27 1 Greece, &c. 28. Asia. 29. Turkey in Asia, and Cyprus. 30. Palestine. 31. Persia, Afghanistan, and Beloochistan. 32. 33. India. 34. China. 34a. Japan. 35. Indian Archipelago, Burmah, Siaul 36. Africa. 36a. Algeria, Tunis, and Morocco. 37. Egypt and Arabia Petnea. 38. South Africa. 39. North America. 40. 41. United States. 42. Canada and New England States. I 43. The Southern States. 44. The Western States. 45. West India Islands. 46. Mexico, Central America. 47. 48. South America. 49. Venezuela, New Granada, Equad and Peru. 50. Chili, Argentine Republic, and Boljj 51. Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, I Guayana. 52. Australia. 52a. New South Wales. 52b. Victoria. 53. New Zealand and Tasmania. 54. Polynesia and Pacific Ocean. 55,56. The World as known to the Ancif^j Index of 6S,000 Names EDINBURGH: A. & C. BLACK. MISCELLANEOUS. 101 THE WAVERLEY NOVELS. AUTHOR'S EDITIONS. COMPLETE SETS at the following Prices Price £l : Is. Sixpenny Edition in 4 vols. 8vo, half French morocco. The same in half calf, price £l :7s. Price £l :14s. Shilling Edition, Illustrated with 125 Wood Engravings, in 12 vols. fcap. 8vo, cloth. The same in leather hack, extra gilt, price £2 ; or in half calf, price £2 : 12s. Price £1:1 7s. Pocket Edition, Illustrated with a Stee Portrait and Woodcut Vignettes, in 25 vols. 12mo, cloth The same in limp Cape morocco, price £3 : 5s. Price £4 : 4s. Centenary Edition, with Additional Notes, Illustrated with 158 Steel Plates, in 25 vols. crown 8vo, cloth. The same may be had in half calf or morocco. Price £7 :4s. Author’s Favourite Edition (1847), with Steel Frontispieces and Woodcut Vignettes, in 48 vols. fcap. 8vo, cloth. Price £6. Illustrated Edition, with 1600 Woodcuts and 96 Steel Plates, in 48 vols. fcap. 8vo, cloth, paper label. The same may be had in half French morocco, price £8 : 8 s. Price £10:12:6. New Library Edition, Illustrated with about 200 Steel Engravings by the most Eminent Artists of their time, and printed in large type, in 25 vols. large 8vo, cloth. EDINBURGH : A. & 0. BLACK. 102 MISCELLANEOUS. TOURISTS’ MAPS. (SELECTED FROM JOHNSTON’S “ROYAL ATLAS.”) Mounted on Canvas, and bound in a Pocket-Case. s. d. America (U.S.) . . . 2 Sheets, with Index of 5675 Names . 8 0 Australia .... 1 1980 4 6 Austria .... 2 yy 6300 8 0 Belgium and the Netherlands 1 yy 5300 yy • 4 6 Canada . 2 yy 3070 yy • 8 0 England. 2 »» >9 11,700 yy • 8 0 France, in departments . 1 U yy 4406 yy • 4 6 Germany, Empire of, S.W. part »» yy 4470 yy • 4 6 „ „ N. 2550 4 6 India . . . . 2 7500 8 0 Ireland . 1 5270 4 6 Italy . 2 ,, 6170 8 0 Mediterranean Shores . 1 2170 4 6 Palestine .... 1 3100 4 6 Prussia . 1 2550 4 6 Scotland . 2 9000 8 0 Spain and Portugal 1 yy 4100 yy • 4 6 Sweden and Norway 1 »» yy 1830 yy • 4 6 Switzerland .... 1 »> yy 4907 yy • 4 6 Now Heady, TOHNSTON’S NEW TRAVELLING OR LIBRARY MAP OP ENGLAND, full »J Coloured, on Cloth and in Case; or on Rollers, Varnished, with Index to 11,00 Names. Price 12s. 6d. The Publishers have great confidence in recommending this as a very nseful Refei ence Map ; it shows in complete detail Towns, Villages, Railways, Roads, Countr Seats, etc. etc. Complete Catalogue of Maps, <6c., on application. W. & A. K. JOHNSTON, EDINA WORKS, EASTER ROAD, and ( 16 SOUTH ST. ANDREW STREET, j 6 PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON, E.C. In Crown 8 vo, Price 6s. 6d. EPITOME OF GARDENING By THOMAS MOOBE, F.L.S. and Dr. M. F. MASTERS, F.R.S. JOINT EDITORS OF THE ‘ GARDENER’S CHRONICLE. ’ Cllostrateli fattlj upfaartis of 200 ®25oaticut2. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. MISCELLANEOUS. 103 BIRMINGHAM. MESSENGER & SONS, MANUFACTURERS OF CHANDELIERS, CANDELABRA AND GAS FITTINGS, IN BRONZE AND ORMOLU: Carefully constructed on a principle tojavoid thejEscape and Odour of Gas. 7 ! MSSSSftdSB AND SONS’ CASK IN T> O - O < XXC3 » ►> <— X o §!& .3 Bi § sac 2a.S '. H CO ^CO PZ P- go os Jp s § o ’ 3 e» .s o /■s £h X 2 s z S KP e g ■eS o <* S.3 O g. w 2 £ o cs .PQ §2 q g®o Id ££> e a - a „ .- a P “C > CM Cfl 3 P Z O ”“ O [si CJSH 3 LJ S3 rr o w CO £, *- 1 z p5S O °Ssa > !© 05 ®-g *s £ %S jSg * o CQ : ~'£ — S •< rt S o K 9 -3 ^ .3 C M * J .b' 0 Q di F-S © M 2 <£-so< O — fe e >,£ Q K a r- tr* eg bo c - &. C?S J»*i S o o •• £ ^ "3 . - w c © 55 © Q -ocaSw q j o jq+s cj 5„-eS ” g K ri ^ j* B “ 05 ► a H g . 3 a 5aSfiSS a a O fc _J o o z o Q z < -J < z o cc o top ■s 55H fS® o3 a ” 2 a - P-Sc-* pfcaS ~>>?H Pg^' PQPO OgPP a-c-c .OP« ►o o a « 2 D <1 s a H a P3 » W o B Eh O O I- 3 3 Hi. 2 § r -° i ^ a s .2 = i S 3 I g j n a §• g « ' -pis c I ^ HH O « 3d ^ *| H .S I ■3 i-j pT aS o=* 3 „- H g §■ H *P . £ Q Q “O""" • - « ^ CJ S = ^3 a, o ? 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LU MISCELLANEOUS. 107 TOURISTS & TRAVELLERS Ladies visiting the Seaside, Rinking, Driving, or otherwise exposed to the scorching rays of the sun or heated particles of dust, will find ROWLAND’S KALYDOR most cooling and refreshing to the face, hands,and arms. It eradicates all Sunburn, Freckles, Tan, Stings of Insects, and pro¬ duces a beautiful and delicate complexion. Sizes 4s. 6 d. and 8s. 6 d. per bottle. ROWLAND’S 0D0NT0 whitens the teeth, prevents and arrests decay. 2s. 9 d. per box. Ask any Chemist, Perfumer, or Hairdresser for ROWLAND’S ARTICLES. PHOTOS FOR PRESENTS—LETTS. LARGE collection of Views of this Neighbourhood from Is. each ; also of Views of other parts of the United Kingdom, France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Norway, Switzerland, Egypt, Palestine, India, United States, English Cathedrals, Abbeys, and Castles, on approval, to double amount of cash sent. Lists on receipt of stamped addressed envelope to LETTS, LIMITED, 72 Queen Victoria St,, LONDON, E.C. TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES. ly/TAPS of every Country or part of the World ; Knapsacks ^ and Bags ; Passports and Visas ; Colour Boxes, Draw¬ ing Blocks, Guide Book of Roads, describing their character. Send Stamp for Tourists’ Catalogue. LETTS, LIMITED, LONDON BRIDGE, E.C. 108 INSURANCE. NORTH BRITISH & MERCANTILE INSURANCE COMPANY. GBstablisfjell 1809. RESOURCES OF THE COMPANY AS AT 31st DECEMBER 1881. I. Subscribed Capital— Paid-up ... ... £500,000 0 0 Uncalled. 1,500,000 0 0 £2,000,000 0 0 II. Fire Fund — Reserve. £S44,577 0 0 Premium Reserve. 319,551 0 0 Balance of Profit and Loss Account . 54,367 0 0 £1,218,495 0 0 III. Life Fund- Accumulated Fund of the Life Branch £3,112,590 0 0 Do. do. Annuity Branch . 395,515 0 0 £3,508,105 0 0 IV. Revenue for the Year 1881— From the Life Department. Life Premiums and Interest £462,824 0 0 Annuity Premiums and Interest . 15,S77 0 0 £47S,701 0 0 From Fire Department. Fire Premiums and Interest . . . . £1,024,384 0 0 £1,503,085 0 0 LIFE DEPARTMENT. I.—Life Assurance Branch. T lIE large proportion of NINE-TENTHS of the PROFITS is divided among the Policyholders on the Participating Scale every five years, and is allocated not only on the sums assured, but also on the previous additions. The last Division of Profits was made as at 31st December 1SS0, when there was declared a Bonus of £1:7:6 per cent per annum. If taken as a percentage on the original sums in the Policies, this Bonus is equi¬ valent to an addition of from £2 :11: 4 per cent per annum on the oldest Policies, to £1:7:6 per cent on those now for the first time entitled to participate. II.—Annuity Branch. ANNUITIES, Immediate, Contingent, or Deferred, are granted on favourable terms. FIRE DEPARTMENT. The Company INSURES against FIRE almost every description of Property, at Home or Abroad, at the lowest rates of Premium corresponding to the Risk. The Policies of this Corporation now extend to cover Loss or Damage by Lightning to the property insured, whether set on fire thereby or not. Every Information may be had at the Chief Offices, Branches, or Agencies. CHIEF /EDINBURGH . 64 Princes Street. OFFICES (LONDON . . 61 Threadneedle St INSURANCE. 109 MUTUAL ASSURANCE with MODERATE PREMIUMS. Scottish Provident Institution (GHstablisljcti 1837.) In THIS SOCIETY alone are combined the advantages of Mutual Assurance with Moderate Premiums. A Policy for £1200 to £1250 may, at most ages, be had for the pre¬ mium generally charged, with profits, for £1000 ; while under the equitable system of division large additions may be expected to the Policies of those who participate. The WHOLE PROFITS go to the Policyholders, on a system at once safe and equitable,—no share being given to those by whose early death there is a loss. The Fifth Septennial Investigation showed a SURPLUS of £624,473, which, after reserving one-third (£208,158) for future division, was divided among 6662 Policies entitled to participate. Policies of £1000 sharing a first time were increased to sums varying from £1180 to £1300 or more. Other Policies were raised to £1400, £1500, and upwards. A few of the early Policies have been doubled. Examples of Annual Premiums for £100 at Death (with Profits). Age. 25 30 35 40 45 60 Payable during Life Limited to 21 Payments £1 18 0 2 12 0 £2 16 2 15 4 £2 6 10 3 0 2 £2 14 9 3 7 5 £3 5 9 3 17 0 £4 17 4 12 1 Extracts from REPORT of Business 1881. New Assurances effected.£1,063,109 Total Receipts in year were .... £579,032 Realised Funds at close of year . . . £4,201,930 The Increase during the year being £288,678. The Accumulated Fund has increased in the last .nine years by upwards of Two Millions ; and it may be noted that of a hundred Offices not more than four in the Kingdom (all of much longer standing) have as large a Fund. REPORTS with Statement of Principles may be had on application, JAMES WATSON, Manager. Edinburgh, May 1882. 110 INSURANCE. SCOTTISH WIDOWS’ FUND AS REGARDS Security, Profit, and Liberal Conditions, the Society’s Policies are Documents of the Highest Value, and have met with such acceptance, that the general operations of the Society have long exceeded in ntbgnitude those of every other Office in the country. The following statements indicate :— I.—The Secure & Profitable character of the Business. The Profit, or excess of Assets over Liabilities, for the seven Years ending 31st December 1880, according to Valuation on the secure basis of the Actuaries’ 3^ per cent Experience Tables, amounted to no less than ;£i>347,755, which yielded the following Exceptionally large Reversionary Bonuses. On Original Sums Assured, from £1 : 14s. to £3 : 17 : 5 per cent per annum, or, taken on the Premiums paid during the Seven Years, from ^58^ to .£133 per cent per annum. {.Age at Entry 35.) II. —The Liberality of the Conditions. Surrender Values, or, in lieu thereof, ‘ Paid-up Policies,’ free of future Premiums, allowed at any time ; Loans granted within a small margin of the Surrender Value ; Extensive Foreign Travel and Residence free of charge from the first; Most Policies absolutely Indefeasible and Whole-World after first five years. Ill—The Magnitude of the Transactions. Policies in Force . . £25,000,000 I Accumulated Funds . £7,700,000 Claims Paid .... £12,500,000 I Annual Revenue . . £980,000 Average Annual New Business last Seven Years £1,250,000. APPLICATIONS FOR POLICIES, securing all the privileges of Membership, may be made at any oj the Society’s Offices, or Agencies in connection therewith. HEAD OFFICE: 9 ST. AN London, 28 Cornhill, E.C. Dublin, 41 Westmoreland Street. Glasgow, 114 West George St. Manchester, Albert Square. Liverpool, 48 Castle Street. Birmingham, 12 Bennett's Hill. HEAD OFFICE, 9 St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, April 1882 . REW SQUARE, EDINBURGH. IVest End Agency , 49 Pall Mall. Leeds, 21 Park Row. Bristol, 40 Corn Street. Belfast, 2 High Street. Newcastle, 12 Grey Street. 1 Norwich, 59 Prince of Wales Road. A* H. TURNBULL, Manager. J. J. P. ANDERSON, Secretary. THE BEST PRESENT FROM EDINBURGH. MISCELLANEOUS. Ill NOTICE. }-j> rv w s ♦ yO o w o m O Li. O 0 s <1 o < 0 TO PL, I LlI /=> tt w J2h CD H TO <-> £ o > PQ _i -+-t z o M H t3 a._v rH hI <-* fc* <1 O ♦ *-* o *-K (NEAR CASTLE). 112 INSURANCE. THE COMMERCIAL UNION ASSURANCE COMPANY FIRE—LIFE—MARINE. Capital fully Subscribed. „ Paid up. Life Funds in Special Trust for Life Policyholders exceed . . Total Annual Premium Income exceeds £2,500,000 £250,000 £733,000 £1,050,000 CHIEF OFFICES: 19 & 20 GORNHILL, LONDON, E.C. WEST END OFFICE: 8 PALL MALL, LONDON, S.W. DIRECTORS. W. Reierson Arbuthnot, Esq. Robert Barclay, Esq. (Barclay, Bevan, & Co.) W. Middleton Campbell, Esq. (Bosanquet, Curtis, & Co.) Jeremiah Column, Esq. (J. & J. Column.) R. C. Fergusson, Esq. Alfred Giles, Esq., 27 Great George St., S.W. Edmund S. Hanbury, Esq. (Truman, Hanbury, & Co.) Frederick W. Harris, Esq. (Harris & Dixon.) John Holms, Esq., M.P. (Wm. Holms & Brothers.) F. Larkworthy, Esq ,Bank of New Zealand. Charles J. Leaf, Esq. (Leaf, Sons,