AND DEALERS IX 
 
 Fancy article*,!! 
 HiiiiUiville. Ala. (^ | 
 
 COL. GEORGE WASHINGTON FLOWERS 
 MEMORIAL COLLECTION 
 
 
 
 
 
 PERKINS LIBRARY 
 
 Uulce Universifrv 
 Kare Doolca 
 
 
 
 
The " highly respectable gentlemen " who propose to conduct our party 
 across the Desert to Mount Sinai.— See Letter from Cairn, p. 205. 
 
HAL'S TEAVELS 
 
 A TWELVE MONTHS' TOUR 
 
 DriuNG ■\vinou 
 
 HE SAW MANY WONDERFUL THINGS AND A VAST 
 DEAL OF FUN. 
 
 BY A. R. WIGGS. 
 
 NASHVILLE, TENN.: 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY J. B. M'FERRIN, Ag't. 
 
 1861. 
 
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1861, by 
 
 A. R. WIGGS, 
 
 in the office of the Clerk of the District Court for the Middle 
 
 District of Tennessee. 
 
 STEREOTYPED AND FEINTED AT THE 
 SOUTHERN METHODIST PUBLISHING HOUSE, NASHVILLE, TENN. 
 
/// 6, ,,:,£> 
 
 TO 
 
 OF 
 
 "MYRTLE HALL " HUNTSYILLE, ALABAMA, 
 
 QDfjis I^olumc 
 
 IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, 
 
 BY 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 HoNTSViLLB, Ala., Jan.. 18G1. 
 
 163715 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 I^ow, ni}' friends, if 3'ou feel inclined to travel, I 
 would be pleased to have you quit your pleasant 
 homes for a season, and journey with me into 
 foreign lands. I think you will find yourselves 
 amply repaid for all the toils you may undergo, for 
 we shall visit many lands and many peoples, and 
 shall look upon sights both quaint and curious. 
 "We will take our staves, bind on our sandals, and 
 provide ourselves with scrip, for our wanderings 
 will be long, and maj^hap wearisome. I promise 
 you, however, fair entertainment and genial com- 
 panions by the way, for we shall refresh ourselves 
 on "praties" with our Irish friends, herrings with 
 the cannie Scotch, roast-beef with bluff, honest 
 John Bull, and rabbits with the hardy Welch; with 
 the polite Frenchman we will partake of wine and 
 ■frogs, sour-krout with the pursy Dutchman, pipes 
 and lager-beer with the German, goat's-railk and 
 cheese with the Swiss — and then cross the proud 
 Alps, and eat maccaroni with the Italian. We will 
 
 (5) 
 
 163745 
 
6 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 then visit Egypt, and test the quality of its flesli- 
 pots — sail upon the classic waters of the Nile, view 
 the wonderful ruins of Thebes and Memphis, climb 
 the mighty Pyramids, and — ride donkeys. Thence 
 to the Holy Land, where priests and prophets dwelt ; 
 to Jerusalem, where our blessed Saviour lived, and 
 moved, and had his being — preached and taught, and 
 healed the sick — was crucified, buried, and rose 
 again. We will stand upon the mount from which 
 he ascended, and many other of the sacred moun- 
 tains of Palestine ; will quench our thirst at the 
 sacred fountains, and bathe in the waters of the 
 Jordan. Thence to Phoenicia, Syria, Turkey, and 
 the classic land of Greece. 
 
 But stop ! to make this journey properly, we 
 must begin at the beginning ; which we will do on 
 the following page. 
 
HAL S TRAVELS, 
 
 HUNTSVILLE TO KE.W YORK. 
 
 "Well, our trunks are packed — Pittman comes 
 round with bis omnibus, and wo ride to the depot, 
 where the "iron horse" stands panting, impatient 
 to be going. We get aboard. The "steed" neighs 
 — bounds away — and in a few moments we lose 
 sight of dear friends, and the lovely little city of 
 Huntsville. One tear — only one — steals down our 
 cheeks, and then our thoughts are reaching forward 
 to scenes that lie before. "We are on the fast line 
 now, and shall only take time to glance hastily at 
 the objects along the way. Reach Chattanooga 
 about night, and "put up" at the Crutchfield 
 House — because we see no other house to "put up" 
 at. In the morning, ride out to Lookout Mountain, 
 and spend the day with the Carey family, who are 
 not onl}' clever people, but know just how to keep 
 a hotel. Tlie sccuer}^ from this mountain we shall 
 not lind surpassed this side of Switzerland. Return 
 to Chattanooga in the evening, and on the arrival 
 of the eight o'clock train, are joined by Mr. Arthur 
 Robinson, who is to accompany us on our travels. 
 Wo are hcartih' glad to see him. At nine o'clock, 
 take the cars, and bid farewell to Chattanooga, not 
 deeply impressed with the excellence of its hotel, 
 
b HALS TRAVELS. 
 
 but willing to admit that its proprietor is a good 
 man. Run all night, and breakfast at Knoxville — 
 most of our fellow -passengers taking " sugar in 
 tlier'n" before attacking the beefsteak and coffee. 
 Leaving Knoxville, we arrive at Bristol, one hun- 
 
 <dred and thirty miles, in just twelve hours and a 
 half! — nearly eleven miles an hour! Shall remem- 
 ber the clever conductor on that part of the line, 
 / because he stopped several times to let us pick black- 
 \ berries. Remain three hours at Bristol, and listen 
 rt- with delight to native music, by some real old Vir- 
 ginia negroes, who entertain us with the classic 
 songs of "Walk Jawbone" and "Hoopta-dooden- 
 do," accompanied with the banjo, and other varia- 
 tions. Leave Bristol at nine o'clock P. M., run all 
 night, and in the morning find ourselves in the 
 midst of the most romantic scenery of Virginia — 
 the blue Peaks of Otter towering up just before us. 
 Breakfast at Liberty, and take supper at Richmond 
 — a first-class meal only in price. Leave Richmond 
 at sunset, and at daylight next morning find our- 
 selves approaching "Washington — the nation's capi- 
 tal. We stop at Willard's, a number one hotel — 
 judging by the bills we pay. Find some half-dozen 
 of our Huntsville boys here, who are out on a gene- 
 ral "bust" — seeing the sights, and having a good 
 time generally. They will accompany us to ^ew 
 York. Stop a couple of days in Washington, and 
 look round at the lions. View the Capitol and 
 other public buildings with pride, and conclude that 
 every American who has a heart, and not a gizzard, 
 
IIALSTRAVELS. 9 
 
 should bd pvoud of them. Sunday is a quiet day in 
 "Washington ; most that is to be seen is a horde of 
 clerks and under-strappers connected with the dif- 
 ferent Departments, strutting about in their Sunday 
 clothes, looking fiercely Democratic. Call upon 
 Secretary Cass, and after assuring him in the most 
 positive manner that we are truly American citi- 
 zens, and not likely to be drafted into foreign ser- 
 vice, he grants us passports for our foreign travels. 
 
 Leave Washington, three o'clock P. M., i~)ass 
 througli Baltimore at telegraphic speed, and arrive 
 at Philadelphia ten o'clock at night. Spend a 
 couple of days here. Walk through Chestnut 
 street, and stare at her wonderful stores. The 
 stream of people on this street, and the crowd about 
 old Independence Hall, suggest the idea to some of 
 the Iluntsville boys that it is the "First Monday." 
 Call on Siter, Price & Co., fix up our financial mat- 
 ters, and leave for New York — the rollicking, jost- 
 ling, bustling, rip-roaring, go-ahead Gotham, where 
 every thing and everybody centres on Broadway. 
 Here the boys are dumfounded with astonishment, 
 for Chestnut street is not a circumstance to Broad- 
 way for bustle and confusion. We stop at the St. 
 Nicholas, the finest liotel in the world. 
 
 There are three of us together now, bound for the 
 Old World, Mr. John Gamble, of Limestone county, 
 having overtaken us at Philadelphia. We arc won- 
 derfully pleased with the accession. The steamer 
 City of Baltimore lies in her dock, almost ready to 
 put to sea. We take passage on her for Liverpool. 
 
10 HAL'ST RAVELS. 
 
 • 
 
 ]5^ow, having joined ourselves to "tlioSe who go 
 down to the sea in ships," we shall commit our- 
 selves to the vasty deep, looking for protection to 
 that God who holdeth the winds in his fists, and the 
 mighty seas in the hollow of his hand. We leave 
 our native shores and our friends with many regrets, 
 but with anticipations of much pleasure beyond the 
 water. Should we get safely over on the other 
 shore, our friends shall hear from us again ; but if 
 otherwise ordered, and we should be in old ocean 
 buried, we hope to meet them all in that haven of 
 rest where sorrow is not known, and where love 
 and harmony shall reign for ever. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 11 
 
 LETTER I.* 
 
 NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL. 
 
 As I rock and roll on tlie raging billows tins 
 morning, being confined within doors by a chilling 
 rain, I will redeem my promise by penning you a 
 few paragraphs. 
 
 Ten days ago, myself and two friends (Robinson 
 and Gamble) wended out way from the St. Nicholas 
 Hotel, New York, to the ocean steamer City of Bal- 
 timore, arriving just in time to get ourselves snugly 
 stowed away before she set sail. Found great con- 
 fusion reigning on board, and the continued arrival 
 of passengers and their friends rendered the con- 
 fusion worse confounded. The starting moment 
 arrived. The bell rang — and then such crying, 
 blubbering, hugging and kissing took place as is 
 seldom seen, except on similar occasions. The last 
 good-bye was finally said, and the noble steamer 
 glided out of her dock, and took her course towards 
 the open sea. Expected to feel awfully sublime and 
 desperately solemn and romantic upon witnessing 
 the gradual disappearance of the shores of my native 
 land — but didn't. Although the heavens wept, I 
 
 * This and most of the succeeding letters were addressed to and 
 published in the Huntsville Independent. 
 
12 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 remained comparatively -anmovecl, for the chilling 
 rain falling at the time, and the dense fog, were 
 death to romance. A few hundred yards put us 
 out of sight of both city and shore. 
 
 Steamed ahead for two hours, and came to a halt, 
 owing to a brisk head-wind and dense fog. Lay to 
 near Sandy Hook till near nightfall, then went 
 ahead. Spent the evening in reconnoitring and 
 studying my fellow-passengers, of wdiom we had a 
 large number. Came to the conclusion that we had 
 several "characters" aboard — and was not far 
 wrong. Felt deep sympathy for some of the ladies, 
 (blessed tender-hearted creatures !) who were still 
 wiping their red eyes, sorrowing for those they had 
 left behind. Was somewhat amused at the chatter- 
 ing of a couple of damsels, (of uncertain age,) who 
 made it convenient to impress the fact upon all 
 within hearing, that they were setting out on a 
 European tour, to be gone for at least four months. 
 Have since learned that the elder and more strong- 
 minded of the two intends writing a book ! She 
 will no doubt "do" Europe in style. Shall culti- 
 vate her acquaintance, and get some ideas upon the 
 art of book-making. 
 
 Eound it interesting to notice the assiduity with 
 which several young gentlemen labored to keep off 
 sea -sickness. They had started out from New 
 York with a bountiful supply of medicine, of which 
 they imbibed freely and frequently from wicker- 
 covered flasks. They soon grew hilarious, and 
 snapped their fingers at sea-sickness. 
 
II AL'S TRAVELS. 18 
 
 Had a pair of Catholic bishops and three or four 
 priests on board. Had uo difficult}- in singling 
 them out, for their portly persons and sleek round 
 Irish faces bespoke their calling at once. Was mis- 
 taken as to one, however, for the jolly red -nosed 
 man I had taken for a priest turns out to be a 
 retired New York merchant. He is travelling with 
 his family for pleasure. Has two grown-up daugh- 
 ters — fine-looking and sprightly. They talk like 
 books, sing like birds, and know how to put on 
 airs. They look "killingly" at m}'- two friends, 
 John and Arthur, but the effect is not yet very 
 perceptible. The father of these damsels has in- 
 formed me, "with a great burst of confidence," that 
 he is very wealthy, and that the man who gets his 
 daughter will get a prize. 
 
 Sunday morning found us far out to sea, with 
 clear sky above, and smooth sea beneath. Looked 
 out upon the dreary waste of waters, and came to 
 the conclusion that the "sublime grandeur" of the 
 ocean, so much spouted about by poets and travelling 
 writers, was all humbug. Saw nothing peculiarly 
 "sublime" about it. All congratulated ourselves 
 that we had escaped sea-sickness. In the afternoon 
 a whale — a live whale — intrepidly came alongside 
 the steamer, blowing and spouting most obstrep- 
 erously. l:Tot so large a fish as I had expected to 
 see ; but perhaps my idea of a whale was extrava- 
 gant. I can still, however, believe the story of 
 Jonah and the whale. 
 
 Late in the afternoon, the wind blew hard, and 
 
14 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the sea looked angry, as tlie white-caps burst and 
 foamed upon its troubled surface. The ship rolled 
 and rocked like a restless monster of the deep. Con- 
 versation flagged, and a serious gravity took posses- 
 sion of most of the passengers. Your correspondent 
 felt remarkably serious. Some living monster 
 seemed to have set up a gallop within his stomach, 
 and while the cold perspiration rolled down his face, 
 he made a bold attempt to go below to his berth. 
 It was necessary for the steward to follow with 
 broom and water, for he soiled the clean deck. 
 There was a heaving on all sides, and a demand for 
 bowls, buckets, etc. Finally got below, and found 
 John in his berth, rolling and groaning. Joined 
 him, while Arthur, more fortunate than we, laughed 
 at us most barbarously. 
 
 Monday the sea was still very rough. The sun 
 shone gloriously, but the wind blew fierce and cool. 
 Few made their appearance on deck, and fewer at 
 the table. My appetite has not yet come to me. 
 Hope to find it in Liverpool. 
 
 On Tuesday morning the wind was blowing great 
 guns. The sea boiled like a pot. Great waves 
 chased each other, and leaped like so many furious 
 mad bulls, and occasionally mounted even upon the 
 upper deck of our noble vessel, as she struggled 
 and panted to surmount them. It was a fearful da3\ 
 The heavens lowered and scowled. Two sails were 
 snapped and torn away by the gale. Timid lubbers 
 looked pale, and manifested a weakness in the knees. 
 Friend Arthur "caved in" that day, but John and 
 
IIAL'S TKAVELS. 15 
 
 myself felt too serious to laugh at liim. I am now 
 willing to admit that all that has hcen said and 
 written about the grandeur and sublimity of the 
 ocean is true — no humbug about it. Ay, but the 
 Atlantic is a rough old bruiser — a rollickinc;. bluff 
 old bully — boxing and tossing about the monster 
 steamer and the light jolly-boat with like ease and 
 impunity — and, withal, more anti-bilious and anti- 
 dyspeptic than all the medicines ever compounded 
 or concocted by that " retired physician whose sands 
 of life have nearly run out." If it was only at play 
 on Tuesday — and that is what the sailors called it — 
 I never wish to see it angry. 
 
 "Wednesday and Thursday the weather was more 
 pleasant, and as nothing occurred worth writing 
 about on those days, you must indulge me in a little 
 eulogy on hogs. I respect hogs. In fact, I may say 
 that I reverence a fine fat porker. Ever since I read 
 the account of the Apostle Peter's vision on the 
 house-top, when he stopped with one Simon, a tan- 
 ner, at Joppa, I have had a weakness for swine. 
 Yes, with all their hoggish ways, I love them. They 
 are good things in their place. Eut I do protest 
 against their being admitted into the saloons of 
 ocean steamers. There they are out of place, and 
 should be put out. We have three of them with us, 
 of the biped breed, in the shape of three huge beef- 
 headed English bulls. They may have been well 
 raised, but if so, they have been out from home long 
 enough to forget their raising. They have no con- 
 versation for anybody except each other, and seem 
 
16 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 to look upon Americans as potatoes too small for 
 their digging. They sit opposite us every day at 
 table, and annoy and disgust every one who sits 
 near them, with their loud talk, bigoted self-impor- 
 tance, and gluttony. At breakfast they monopo- 
 lize every thing within their reach, and keep the 
 steward trotting for 'am and heggs. At dinner they 
 continually call for roast beef, hale, etc. We can 
 scarcely get a steward to bestow any attention upon 
 us, and it is so annoying, that Arthur has more than 
 once been on the point of throttling the most vil- 
 lainous-looking one of the trio. John and your 
 correspondent would delight in pitching into the 
 other two. One of them I take peculiar pleasure in 
 detesting, more perhaps on account of his looks 
 than any thing else. He is a hard-featured crea- 
 ture, with short chin, very large mouth, huge nose, 
 and pop-eyes, long arms, bowed-back, and bow-legs. 
 If he were a good-looking man, his manners 
 might be bearable ; but to see such a looking crea- 
 ture putting on airs makes me mad. One of my 
 friends gives it as his unbiased opinion that these 
 fellows belong to the latter of two classes that in- 
 habit the world — to wit, natural fools, and d d 
 
 fools. I merely record this as my friend's indivi- 
 dual opinion. 
 
 Friday we were among the icebergs. "Wind blew 
 cold like winter. Passed three during the day, one 
 of which seemed to be a quarter of a mile in dia- 
 meter at the base, and towered up two or three 
 hundred feet. I was gazing at it through a spy- 
 
II AL'S TRAVELS. 17 
 
 glass, when a Georgia friend came up and wanted to 
 "look through that brass thing" to see if he could 
 see any bears : said he had heard them say down 
 in Georgia that bears could alwaj^s be seen on ice- 
 bergs. I gratified him with a look through the 
 "brass thing," but he discovered "nary" bear. 
 
 Saturday, Sunday, and Monday were lovely days ; 
 sky clear and serene, and the atmosphere bracing. 
 The sea was blue and beautiful, and I passed much 
 time on deck, watching the waves as they sported 
 and chased each other like gleesome children at 
 play. On such days I love to sit for hours together 
 and watch the rolling and swelling of the deep blue 
 waters. There is a charm about the sea which 
 grows upon one in spite of himself, and I wonder 
 not that seamen become so much attached to the 
 briny deep. 
 
 Had Divine service on Sunday, in the saloon. 
 Passengers and sailors, except those on duty, were 
 called together by the ringing of the ship's bell. 
 The Captain led the service, which was Episcopal. 
 The Catholic clergy and their followers refused to 
 be present, fearing, perhaps, that coming in contact 
 with Protestantism might defile them — not a Cath- 
 olic remained in the saloon. In the afternoon, 
 Catholic service w^as held, led by Bishop Connor, of 
 Pittsburg. The burden of his discourse was on 
 Cliarity ! The Protestants were all present to hear 
 him — ■practicing what he ow\y preached. At night we 
 had sacred music, and indulged in some good old 
 
18 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 camp-meeting songs, whicli made me tliink of home 
 and tlie revival scenes I have witnessed there. 
 
 Wednesday morning early, was aroused from my 
 slumbers with the joyful shout of "Land! Land!" 
 Rushed up on deck, half dressed, and after straining 
 my eyes for some time to penetrate the thick fog, 
 descried a long, low, black streak in the horizon, 
 said to be the coast of Ireland. The fog soon blew 
 away, and sure enough, there lay, in all its beauty, 
 the Emerald Isle — the "gem of the ocean." Steamed 
 into the Cove of Cork, said to be one of the finest 
 harbors in the world ; discharged about one hun- 
 dred passengers — among them the Catholic clergy, 
 and the Yankee spinsters who are to travel four 
 months, and write a book ! Leaving Cork, we 
 steamed ahead for Liverpool, and landed here early 
 this morning. 
 
 So here we are in Liverpool — the great commer- 
 cial emporium of Great Britain — one of the first 
 commercial cities of the world. We have tramped 
 round most of the day, looking at the magnificent 
 edifices and some fine monuments. Boot-blacks 
 and newsboys annoy strangers a good deal, and 
 beggars are also to be met. We shake all oS, and 
 keep the even tenor of our way. To-morrow we go 
 to London, and from there I will write you again. 
 Adieu. Hal. 
 
hal'stravels. 19 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 So wc arc in London at last ! London, the capital 
 of Great Britain, the seat of royalty, and the me- 
 tropolis of the world — the great city, the smoke of 
 whose furnaces ascends up for ever and ever, and 
 then comes down again, leaving its dark impress 
 upon all objects below. London, where Shakspeare 
 lived, and wrote, and played, and sAvilled his 'alf- 
 aud-'alf ; where rare Ben Jonson lived, and moved, 
 and had his being; where Goldsmith, and many 
 other poets and philosophers, came well-nigh starving 
 to death, and where Spenser actually did die for 
 want of bread. London, where princes and beggars 
 jostle each other ; where millionnaires and gaunt, 
 starving wretches stare each other in the face; where 
 the jungles of infamy and the palaces of luxury are 
 within a stone's-throw of each other ; where priests 
 and pickpockets are near neighbors, and where the 
 philosopher and the clown swill two-penny beer from 
 the same pot. Ay, but London is a great city, and 
 to tell of but the half I have seen here would till a 
 book. One sees so much here, he becomes be- 
 wildered and sick, and gets things so jumbled up 
 in his mind that it is next to impossible to get 
 
20 UAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 them untangled. My two friends and myself make 
 it a business to keep going and seeing, but when 
 we return to our domiciles at night, we have but an 
 indistinct recollection of splendid palaces, magni- 
 ficent churches, beautiful parks and gardens, monu- 
 ments, rich paintings, and an innumerable multitude 
 of people. Each place we visit would require days 
 to get it fairly and fully impressed upon the mind. 
 One should stay a full year in London to see the 
 "lions." 
 
 I find that we are known here by all classes as 
 Americans, and are consequently "set upon" by 
 beggars, and continually swindled by cab-drivers. 
 Don't know what it is that betrays our nationality. 
 Can't be our dress, for we dress like the English ; 
 nor can it be our language, for we speak plain 
 English ; and to suppose it any thing like verdancy 
 in our appearance would be absurd, for we even 
 labor to look wise. Yet we are known and 
 "spotted" as "Yankees" in all parts of London. 
 It may possibly be our good looks. Started out the 
 other morning to find the Thames Tunnel. Police- 
 man tendered his services, saying he knew we were 
 Americans and strangers, and he would conduct us 
 to the proper place to take the down-river boat; 
 gave him pleasure to serve Americans, as he had 
 once visited Mobile. The agent who gave us tickets 
 for the boat, remarked that they were worth eight 
 cents apiece, as we probably understood the Ameri- 
 can better than the English currency. Reached the 
 entrance to the Tunnel, paid our pennies, and as 
 
hal'stravels. 21 
 
 we passed in, the gate-keeper handed us a printed 
 description of the great and curious work, saying 
 we miglit take it back to America ^vith us. Passing 
 along through the brilliantly lighted Tunnel, were 
 seen by a musician who sat near the opposite end. 
 He recognized us at a distance of fifty yards, and 
 struck up "Yankee Doodle." We stopped to listen, 
 and then approached him slowly, when he commenced 
 "Hail Columbia." "We gave him some pennies and 
 passed on. Upon one occasion we were hailed by 
 a newsboy. We refused to buy the Times, when 
 the little scamp turned up his nose and ran off, 
 crying, "I smell Yankee ! I smell Yankee !" And 
 this is about the waj'- we are continually made to 
 remember the fact that we are foreigners ! 
 
 Leaving the Tunnel, we wandered through the 
 venerable precincts of Wapping, that we might see 
 something of low as well as high life. Passed 
 through "Bleeding-heart Yard," and, not far dis- 
 tant, saw the remains of " Tom-all-alone's," and if 
 we didn't see poor "Joe," certainly saw his suc- 
 cessor. He is still kept "moving on." The elder 
 Mr. Turveydrop is still to be met on the street, but 
 begins to look seed}', while the "young man of the 
 name of Guppy" seems to be doing a thriving busi- 
 ness in Chancer}^ Lane. 
 
 Have visited Greenwich, about six miles down 
 the river, to see the great hospital for superannuated 
 seamen, the Kaval School, and the Observatory, 
 from which longitude is reckoned. Same day paid 
 a visit to the Great Eastern steamship, the largest 
 
22 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 craft ever put afloat — Noah's ark not excepted. 
 London is full of wonders, but this monster steamer 
 is the greatest wonder of them all. She is nearly 
 seven hundred feet long, one hundred and twenty 
 feet wide across the paddle-boxes, sixty feet deep ; 
 has nineteen water-tight compartments. Has five 
 large saloons, two of which are seventy feet long. 
 Diameter of the side-wheels fifty-six feet. Has an 
 enormous screw-propeller. Engines three thousand 
 horse-power. Has five decks. Whole ship built 
 of wrought iron. Can spread six thousand yards 
 of canvass ! When finished, she will visit the 
 United States. Guess Brother Jonathan will go 
 into big ecstasies, and tear his trowsers, when he 
 sees her paddling about in his waters. 
 
 Went Sunday to hear the celebrated Spurgeon 
 preach. It was with difficulty we found the place. 
 Met a respectable " Pecksniffian" - looking gentle- 
 man, aud asked him if he could tell us where Mr. 
 Spurgeon -would preach that day. Hung down his 
 head, hemmed a little, seemed in deep thought, 
 looked up, aud asked if we were not Americans ? 
 Told him we were. Hung his head again, paused, 
 put his finger to the side of his nose, and repeated 
 the word slowly three times, " Spurgeon, Spurgeon, 
 Spurgeon." Shook his head, rolled up his eyes, 
 and said "No !" Asked a cab-driver, and his reply 
 was, "Two shillin's." Met the elder Mr. Turvey- 
 drop, and put the question to him. Put the head 
 of his cane to his nose, and said he was sure he had ' 
 heard the name of Spurgeon before — quite sure he 
 
HAL S TRAVELS. 28 
 
 had — but really could not tell where, when, nor in 
 what connection. Policeman told us to go to Park 
 Lane. Another policeman said " No — not Park 
 Lane," Finally, we were informed by genteel- 
 looking individual — very genteel, l)ut a little seedy — 
 who spoke with all the confidence of a Micawber — 
 that Mr. Spurgeon preached at Surre}'' Gardens — 
 quite sure of it, for he lived in that neighborhood. 
 We took a cab, and rode three miles to Surrey Gar- 
 dens, and found the gentleman's statement correct. 
 Found the great hall densely' crowded, and the 
 people still coming in streams. With difficulty we 
 got standing room. Got our places just as the 
 preacher commenced his first prayer. 
 
 Now that I have heard Spurgeon, perhaps you 
 expect me to give my opinion of the preacher and 
 liis sermon. It may be presumption — and is pre- 
 sumption — for me to attempt to criticise the sermon 
 of a man whose reputation is so extensive on both 
 sides of the Atlantic. But I speak for myself, and 
 nobody else, when I say I was grievously disap- 
 pointed. Perhaps I expected too much — no doubt 
 did — but I say what I believe to be true, and what 
 I felt to be true at the time, that I have heard ser- 
 mons in the United States that pleased me much 
 better, and were better calculated to lead sinners to 
 repentance. Mr, Spurgeon is a good man and a 
 good preacher, but if he is worthy of his great repu- 
 tation, then I am dull indeed. His style of preach- 
 ing is so very different from other preachers in this 
 country, that it has given him a great notoriety, 
 
24 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 and the people run to hear him in great numbers, 
 because they are ever ready to hear some new thing. 
 "While the preachers of the Church of England de- 
 liver dry, windy, punctilious, big-worded, written 
 sermons, Spurgeon marches up oif-hand, and takes 
 the bull by the horns, just as some of our preachers 
 do. He calls things by their right names — uses 
 language plain and easy to be understood — and 
 hence takes hold of the people. His figures are apt, 
 vivid, and to the point — homely enough, some of 
 them. Voice clear, and words distinct ; yet, in de- 
 clamation, I know stump - speakers in Tennessee 
 that can beat him. There are plenty of preachers 
 in our country who could get up as great if not a 
 greater furor in London than Mr. Spurgeon has. 
 His sermon on Sunday was preached from Matthew 
 xi. 29 : "For I am meek and lowly in heart." 
 
 Do not infer from what I have said that I think 
 Mr. Spurgeon an ordinary man. He is a great 
 preacher ; and we, too, have great preachers on our 
 side of the water — greater, perhaps, than Mr. Spur- 
 geon. My two friends are entirely delighted with 
 him, and differ with me as to his ability. Mr. S. 
 looks to be about thirty or thirty-five years of age, 
 has rather a boyish face, full and round, wears a 
 high shirt collar and white cravat, to make him look 
 ministerial. 
 
 But enough of Spurgeon. There are a thousand 
 things I might write about, but shall not do it. 
 You may expect me to give you a description of the 
 splendid House of Parliament, of "Windsor Castle, 
 
hal's travels. 35 
 
 St. rani's Church, National Art Gallery, Hyde 
 Park, Regent's Park, St. James's Park, and the 
 thousaitd-and-one things of national and historical 
 interest here ; hut you will he disappointed, for I 
 shall not attempt anything of the sort. I didn't 
 intend from the start to write any such letters. 
 For information on these things I refer you to any 
 book of travels, for all travellers who write think 
 themselves in duty hound to describe those places, 
 and I shall not follow in their footsteps. I could 
 not do it without copying copiously from the guide- 
 books ; hence, will not try. If I can't be original, I 
 won't be at all. 
 
 Went down the other evening and took a look at 
 Buckingham Palace, the town residence of Her 
 Poyal Highness, Queen Victoria. Her Majesty not 
 being at home, we didn't call. She, with her little 
 responsibilities, is on a visit to the Isle of Wight. 
 Left a few days before we reached London. Pre- 
 sume she did not know we were coming. 
 
 Shall visit the Tower of London to-morrow, where 
 all the State prisoners have been imprisoned and be- 
 headed from time immemorial. Place of terrible 
 interest, that Tower. Must also visit the House of 
 Lords and the Crystal Palace. Sorry we have not 
 more time to spend in London, for one should not 
 run through it in a hurry. But must be in Paris on 
 the 15th, to witness the great Napoleon /cte, and the 
 miree of the grand army of Italy. It will be one of 
 the greatest pageants ever seeii in the world. It 
 will compensate us in some degree for the disappoint- 
 
26 HAL's TRAVELS. 
 
 ment in not getting over here in time to see a great 
 battle fought in Italy. 
 
 Hold ! hist ! There's another hand-organ thun- 
 dering away ! The seventh time that an organ has 
 been played under my window since this letter was 
 commenced ! I acknowledge my weakness for mu- 
 sic, but must confess that my respect for Italy and 
 for Italians generally is daily giving way under the 
 pressure of too much grinding upon the organ. 
 There is no less than a regiment of stout Italians 
 now in London, assiduously devoting themselves to 
 the profession. It would be a good thing if they 
 could be put on a cotton-plantation in Alabama, 
 under a good overseer. 
 
 The hotels of London are not to be compared 
 with those of l^ew York. Upon arriving here we 
 stopped at Morley's Hotel, Charing Cross, said to 
 be one of the finest in London ; but to those coming 
 from Philadelphia or JSTew York, it will appear as 
 small potatoes. We soon discovered that the charges 
 ranged at least fifty per cent, higher than in New 
 York, and we took ourselves suddenly away, and 
 would advise our friends, if they ever come to Lon- 
 don, and feel economically disposed, to take private 
 lodgings, as we have done. 
 
 This letter is long enough. Good-bye. 
 
 Hal. 
 
hal'stravels. 27 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 I HAD an idea before coming to London that it 
 was a great city. Am now convinced that it is all 
 my fancy painted it, and fifty per cent. more. Since 
 my last letter I have been going, going, going con- 
 tinually, and the more I try to find the end of it, 
 the more I can't do it. Have seen it from the 
 "deck" of an omnibus for ten miles at a stretch — 
 viewed it from the tallest towers and steeples — 
 walked it until my feet are blistered, and my mus- 
 cles sore — and still it seems the same endless Lon- 
 don — full of interest, full of magnificent architec- 
 ture, full of classic localities, and full of wicked- 
 ness. I have seen the " lions" and the " elephant" 
 — have tramped from " Blackfriars" to "White- 
 friars" — have threaded my way from Pall-mall to 
 "Temple Bar" — have run the gauntlet from "Pud- 
 ding Lane" to "Pie Corner" — forced my way through 
 the mass from "Billingsgate" to " Cock Lane" — 
 scrambled from "Newgate" to " Dog's-Misery" — 
 have cabbed it frorn "Regent's Park" to "Surrey 
 Gardens" — 'bussed it from "The Angel" to the 
 "Elephant-and-Castle"— from "Piccadilly" to "The 
 
28 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Eagle" — and from " Charing Cross" to " Vauxliall 
 Gardens" — in short, have been, it seems, almost 
 everywhere, and yet have seen but little of London, 
 comparatively. 
 
 Visited to-day St. Bartholomew's church, in Smith- 
 field Market, to see the ground where so many 
 Christian martyrs were burned during the reign of 
 bloody Queen Mary. Also the tower erected to 
 commemorate the great fire of London, in 1666. It 
 is an immense column, two hundred and two feet 
 high, and located two hundred and two feet from 
 the spot in "Pudding Lane" where the fire origi- 
 nated. After its erection, the following inscription 
 was engraved upon the base : 
 
 "This pillar was set up in perpetual! remembrance of that most 
 dreadful burning of this Protestant citye, begun and carryed on by 
 ye treachery and malice of ye Popish factio, in ye beginning of Sep- 
 tem, in ye yeare of our Lord 16G6, in order to ye carrying on their 
 horrid plot of extirpating ye Protestant religion and old English 
 liberty, and ye introducing Popery and slavery." 
 
 As many as six persons have committed suicide 
 by throwing themselves from the top of this monu- 
 ment. Also visited Charter House Square, where 
 sixty thousand of the better class of the citizens of 
 London were buried during the Great Plague. Also 
 Bunhill Fields Cemetery, where rest the mortal re- 
 mains of Rev. Mr. Fox, the founder of the Quaker 
 sect of religionists ; Dr. Isaac "Watts, whose hymns 
 will be sung till time shall be no more ; John Bun- 
 yan, whose "Christian" in the Pilgrim's Progress 
 will ever be the admiration of Christian warriors ; 
 
UAL'S TRAVELS. 2& 
 
 and many others arc buried there whose names are 
 familiar to Protestant Christians throughout Chris- 
 tendom. 
 
 On Sunday, instead of going to hear Spurgeon 
 again, went to the "Wesley Chapel, and after service 
 went to the rear of the church and saw the tomb of 
 the great divine and founder of Methodism. Also 
 the ground where Goldsmith is said to have been 
 buried. 
 
 Friend Arthur went again last Sunday to hear 
 Spurgeon, and came back rather chapfallen. Don't 
 now think quite so much of him as he did. Says 
 he did n't preach near so well as on the Sunday be- 
 fore — and took occasion to come down upon Ameri- 
 can slavery with a vim ; quoted the sixth verse of 
 Psalm ciii., " The Lord executeth righteousness 
 and judgment for all that are oppressed," and said 
 that was a "fit legacy left by David to the slave- 
 holders of America." "Won't some kind-hearted 
 philanthropist have the goodness to send Mr. Spur- 
 geon a copy of Ross's Bible Defence of Slavery ? I 
 am persuaded that the overrated individual might 
 read it with profit. It is said that Spurgeon intends 
 shortly to visit America. If so, I trust our good 
 people will endeavor to hold themselves on the 
 ground. It is not customary, I know, for them to 
 be temperate when famous foreigners go among 
 them. All the talent of America might come to 
 London, and there would not be half the sensa- 
 tion manifested as in New York when Charles 
 Dickens went among them. Guess Spurgeon will 
 
30 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 meet a similar reception. If so, hope he will write 
 a " Martin Chuzzlemt." 
 
 I have been through most of the parks, many of 
 the churches, castles, and towers, but among them 
 all found no spot which brought up such thoughts 
 as the Tower of London, the place where has been 
 shed so much royal and so much innocent blood, 
 and where have been imprisoned many hundreds 
 whose names adorn or blacken the pages of history. 
 This tower is an immense fortress, surrounded with 
 a deep moat which can be filled at any moment 
 with water from the Thames, on the banks of which 
 it stands. In the centre stands a tower, from which 
 the fortress takes its name. Tradition says it was 
 built by Julius Caesar, some say by William the 
 Conqueror. The arms and armor of England, 
 from Edward the First on down through successive 
 reigns, are still preserved here, as well as thousands 
 of other relics of antiquity. I was in the cell where 
 Sir Walter Raleigh was confined for twelve years. 
 It is small, without a particle of light, and the walls 
 are fifteen feet thick. In front of this cell stands 
 the block on which so many have been beheaded, 
 including kings, queens, lords and ladies. The 
 fatal axe lies beside it, blackened with rust — the 
 same axe which severed the heads of Lady Jane 
 Grey, Anne Boleyn, Sir Walter Ealeigh, and hun- 
 dreds of others. I passed through many cells, but 
 lingered longest to gaze upon the one in which the 
 gentle Queen Anne Boleyn was confined previous 
 to her execution. The history of that tragedy 
 
H A L ' S T R A V E L S . 81* 
 
 passed before me, and I almost cursed the memory 
 of the bloody Henry YIH. I thought of the splen- 
 dor and pomp with which she was received at the 
 palace (then in the Tower) on her espousal to the 
 brutal Henry. She was on that occasion escorted 
 by the Lord IMayor and his train, arrayed in scarlet, 
 with gold chains about their necks, in gilded barges 
 of great magnificence, and was received amidst the 
 raelod}' of trumpets and musical instruments, and 
 a mighty peal of guns. This was the reception 
 Henry gave her. The next day she proceeded from 
 the Tower to Westminster, with all the pomp and 
 heraldry of pride and power. She is described as 
 tall and slender, face oval, hair black, complexion 
 rather pale, features and figure symmetrical ; and it 
 is said that beauty and sprightliness sat on her lips; 
 and in readiness of wit she was unsurpassed. 
 
 This was truly a splendid beginning — but what 
 an ending ! Three years after, the tongue of jeal- 
 ousy and slander aspersed her fair name. She was 
 committed to the Tower, a prisoner ; arraigned 
 and tried for unfaithfulness to her roj^al but villain- 
 ous husband, and pronounced guilty. When her 
 sentence was pronounced, she raised her hands and 
 eyes to heaven, and exclaimed : " Father ! 
 Creator ! Thou who art the way, the truth, and 
 the life, thou knowest I have not deserved this 
 death !" She was- conducted to the place of execu- 
 tion without being permitted even to see the cruel 
 author of her death. Those who were eye-witnesses 
 of the scene, record that her beauty on that day 
 
32 hal'stravels. 
 
 was mournfully brilliant. After addressing a few 
 words to those who stood around, she laid her head 
 on the fatal block, and it was severed at one stroke. 
 Her body was thrust into an old chest, and hurried 
 away to the vault of the chapel, in front of which 
 the scaffold stood. The place where the scaffold 
 stood is marked with black stones, while the rest of 
 the court is paved with stones of a light color. 
 
 I have visited some of the London theatres, and 
 have seen the boards trod by some of the ancient 
 worthies. Went to the Haymarket last night, and 
 saw a play which might be performed to advantage 
 in some parts of our own country — entitled, "The 
 Contested Election ; or, the way M. P.'s get their 
 seats." It was a good "take-off" of the manner in 
 which members of Parliament are made. ISTone but 
 rich men can get a seat in the English Parliament, 
 for almost every elector has his price, and votes for 
 the highest bidder. Have learned this from debates 
 in the House of Commons, where about a dozen 
 cases of contested election are now being tried. 
 The proof shows that nearly all were elected by 
 bribery. The constituencies being small, it is easier 
 for a man to buy them up here than in the United 
 States, where every man is a voter. They have a 
 curious way here of managing elections. The can- 
 didate is in the background — gives the canvass up 
 into the hands of a club or committee. He fur- 
 nishes the money, and the committee hire and send 
 out "electioneerers." The "electioneerers" buy 
 votes, paying each voter his price. The candidate 
 
hal'stravels. 3S 
 
 justifies himself by saying that he is a poor hand to 
 electioneer, and merely hires these men to do it for 
 him, paying them for their time, and giving them a 
 certain sum of money extra, to be expended for 
 "refreshments." Several members have been oust- 
 ed within the last few days. The play above al- 
 luded to was got up to take olF the cases now being 
 tried, and does it admirably. 
 
 The city of London proper is but a small part of 
 London. What is called " The City" is independent 
 of the rest, having its own government. It was a 
 walled city in ancient times. Part of the wall still 
 stands. Temple Bar (an ancient gate) remains as a 
 remembrance of the old wall, dividing the city from 
 the new part of London. It is an immense arch, 
 spanning the street just at the meeting of the Strand 
 and Fleet streets. Upon the top of this arch the 
 heads of desperate criminals used to be placed, to 
 be scofied at by the public. 
 
 People here have a singular idea about time and 
 age. I dropped into a barber-shop the other day, 
 under Temple Bar, to get my hair cut. Found the 
 barber a loquacious fellow, as all barbers are. Told 
 him I thought he had a good stand for his business, 
 being located under the ancient and time-honored 
 Temple. "Bless you, sir," said he, "this haint the 
 hold bar. This is the new 'un. The hold 'un was 
 pulled down, it got so rickety, and this new 'uu 
 built. This haint 'ardly two 'undred years hold 
 yet." I thought two hundred years a good old age. 
 
 Billingsgate, I am persuaded, is hardly maintain- 
 2 
 
34 HAL's TRAVELS. 
 
 ing its ancient reputation. I spent half an Lour 
 there one clay, and did not hear more than half a 
 dozen oaths, and but few indecent expressions. 
 The coarse language of this place is notorious 
 throughout the world. 
 
 There stripped, fair rhetoric languished on the ground. 
 
 His blunted arms by sophistry are borne, 
 
 And shameless Billingsgate her robes adorn. — Pope. 
 
 Billingsgate is a fish-market, and is about the 
 loudest smelling place I have found about London, 
 even surpassing the river Thames, if possible. 
 
 Don't know but Fbegin to feel a little more im- 
 portant than I used to feel. It is not common for 
 plain republicans to be admitted within less than 
 bow-shot of roj^alty, but I have been much nearer ; 
 in fact, almost in the very presence of the royal 
 family. Through the intercession of the American 
 Legation, I was granted a card of admission to the 
 Queen's Stables. The document was crowned with 
 the royal arms, (to wit : a lion and unicorn rampant,) 
 and read as follows : 
 
 Master of the Horse's Office, ^^ 
 Royal Mews, Pimlico. J 
 
 Admit Mr. Hal and party of two to view the 
 
 Queen's Stables. 
 
 J. E. Groves, 
 
 Crown Equerry. 
 
 Did myself the honor to call at the Master of the 
 Horse's office yesterday, and was well paid for the 
 visit. The finest stud of horses I ever saw, of 
 
hal'stravels. 35 
 
 course. There are one hundred and fifty horses. 
 Great ceremony is observed at these stables. An 
 official received me at the gate in rich uniform — cut 
 off part of my ticket of admission, and handed me 
 over to a cockaded gentleman, who conducted me 
 to another office, where I was required to register 
 my name and place of residence, and deliver up the 
 rest of my ticket. A third individual with gold lace 
 and shiny buttons conducted me into a stable where 
 stood a dozen of Prince Albert's saddle - horses. 
 After explaining to me the qualities of each parti- 
 cular horse, (for he understood "'orse-talk" per- 
 fectly,) he handed me over to a fourth, and thus I 
 was conducted through all the stables, coach and 
 harness houses, a different "gentleman" accom- 
 panying mo through each place. And now you 
 know how near an approach I have made to royalty 
 since my sojourn in London. 
 
 Guess I have bored 3'ou enough, and will desist. 
 Shall go to Paris to-morrow. 
 
 Yours, etc., Hal. 
 
36 hal'stravels, 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 I AM in a state of excitement this morning — be- 
 wildered — in fact, I might say, dumfounded — and 
 the reliability of what I write on this occasion may 
 well be doubted. I have seen enough within the 
 last few days to turn the head of a sage, or to com- 
 pletely derange a man of ordinary sense. I am in 
 Paris, and have seen something of Paris life. You 
 don't know what that means, nor does any one who 
 has never been here. I have heard of Paris and 
 read of Paris all my life, but had not the most faint 
 conception of its grandeur, beauty, gayety, or frivo- 
 lity until now. It is the place of places — the city 
 of cities — where voluptuousness abides, and where 
 wickedness doth abound ; where the people sit down 
 to eat and drink, and rise up to play — a city that 
 seems to be verging upon the condition of the great 
 Babylon before its downfall — because it seems to 
 me she makes "all nations drink of the wine of the 
 wrath of her fornication." 
 
 I have seen enough since my arrival in Paris to 
 keep me writing a week, and to fill six newspapers ; 
 but don't be alarmed — I'm not going to do it. I 
 must put a rein upon my scribbling inclination. 
 
nAL'STRAVELS. 37 
 
 The great fete of the age — yea, the greatest the 
 world has ever known, has just closed — a fete got 
 up, directed and managed by Emperor I^Tapoleon 
 III., backed by the city of Paris, and aided and 
 assisted by the entire French nation. My pen 
 shrinks back appalled when I think of attempting 
 to give you even a distant glimmering of the bril- 
 liancy of the scenes in Paris during the last two 
 days — to-wit, Sunday and Monday. It can't be 
 portrayed on paper. An attempt to do so would 
 be simply ridiculous. I can mention some things 
 that were done, however. The entree of the Grand 
 Army of Italy, headed by Napoleon and his staff, 
 was a scene of grandeur seldom witnessed. It was 
 not the army alone that constituted the beauty of 
 the scene : it was the manner in which it was wel- 
 comed — the immense crowd of people — the thou- 
 sands upon thousands of flags, banners and devices 
 which greeted the war-worn veterans — the shouts, 
 and the immense showers of wreaths and bouquets 
 showered upon them from the windows, the bal- 
 conies, and housetops, as they passed the streets. 
 Their march was from the Place du Trone along the 
 Boulevards, (the broadest and most beautiful street 
 of Paris,) a distance of nearly five miles, to what is 
 called the Place Vendome, (a square in which stands 
 the great column surmounted with the statue of 
 Napoleon Bonaparte, the whole cast from the can- 
 non taken by him in his various battles.) This 
 square, which is four hundred and fifty feet across, 
 was surrounded with seats, capable of seating 
 
38 HAL' S TRAVELS. 
 
 twenty-one thousand persons, all of wliom were of 
 the privileged classes, and entered the place by 
 ticket. Every window, and the balconies of the 
 houses surrounding this square, and even the roofs, 
 were filled with people — the elite of Paris. On one 
 side was a crimson velvet canopy over a tribune, 
 where the Empress and her royal guests sat during 
 the four hours and ten minutes that it took the 
 army to pass. The Emperor sat on his horse in 
 front of the tribune during the whole time, and 
 greeted each regiment as it passed. The brilliancy 
 of the decorations of this square cannot be described. 
 It seemed as if millions of dollars had been expended 
 for banners, arches and columns ; crimson, blue and 
 purple velvet, trimmed and embroidered with gold 
 lace, were suspended from every window around the 
 square. The Empress sat during most of the time 
 with the little Prince Imperial in her arms. The 
 little fellow was dressed in the uniform of the Impe- 
 rial Guards. But why should I attempt a detailed 
 account ? I will sum it up by saying that the whole 
 distance marched by the army, from the place of 
 starting, about ten miles, back to the Bastile, was a 
 scene of flaunting banners, triumphal arches, crowds 
 of people, both on the streets, in the windows, 
 and on the housetops, and the continual yell of 
 "Vive I'Empereur!" "Vive I'Armee !" "Vive les 
 Zouaves !" etc., etc. 
 
 The procession consisted of 69,800 men, and 144 
 pieces of cannon, besides many thousands of other 
 troops not belonging to the Army of Italy. It 
 
IIAL'S TRAVELS. 39 
 
 took four hours and ten minutes for the procession 
 to pass. There were 63,000 infantry, 2800 cavalry, 
 2400 artillerymen, 800 engineers, and 300 with the 
 wagon-train. I do not know the number of soldiers 
 not of the Army of Ital}-, though there were many 
 thousands. There were also 6500 horses attached 
 to the cannon and w^agon- train. The regiments 
 marched about sixteen abreast, headed by their re- 
 spective ofhcers. The order was as follows : 
 
 1st. The Emperor and his escort, (from the Bas- 
 tile to the Place Vendome.) 
 
 2d. The banners taken from the Austrians. 
 
 3d. The Austrian cannon. 
 
 4th. The wounded — some limping, some with 
 bandages around their heads, and others with their 
 arms in slings. 
 
 5th. The Zouaves, composed of Turks, Moors, 
 and desperate-looking Frenchmen. 
 
 6th. Artillery and baggage-wagons. 
 
 7th. Infantry. 
 
 8th. Regiment of Lancers. 
 
 9th. Cavalry of the Guard, in glittering armor. 
 
 10th. The Emperor and his attendants brought 
 up the rear from the Place Vendome, down Rue de 
 Rivoli, to the Palace of the Tuilcries, 
 
 After the street had been somewhat cleared, the 
 Empress and her household followed on to the Tuil- 
 cries in the State carriages, each drawn by only 
 two horses, and entirely unattended except by the 
 footmen. 
 
 We had a good opportunity to see the whole of 
 
40 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the procession, having a stand in a balcony in front 
 of our hotel, from which we could see both the army 
 and the masses of people up and down the streets 
 for miles. It is estimated that there were from five 
 to eight hundred thousand people on the streets on 
 Sunday, besides what were in the houses and on the 
 housetops. It seemed to an American like any thing 
 but Sunday. The hundred brass bands, the scores 
 and scores of kettle-drums, the yells of the masses, 
 and the confusion generally, made it seem more like 
 pandemonium than a city professing to be Chris- 
 tian. Hundreds of priests, monks, and friars were 
 pushing and crowding along with the rest, looking 
 any thing but meek and lowly, as would have be- 
 come their long black robes and shaven pates. The 
 day finally closed with a partial illumination of 
 many of the streets. 
 
 But Monday was the big fete day. Interesting 
 and brilliant spectacles were got up and carried on 
 during the day in every part of the city. As I could 
 not see all, I chose to go to the Hotel des Invalides, 
 (a church, fortification, and hospital for invalid sol- 
 diers, all combined,) in which is the Tomb of ISTapo- 
 leon I,, and in which was sung a grand Te Deum, 
 and High Mass was celebrated, which is done twice 
 a year, viz., on Christmas and on the 15th of Au- 
 gust. The performance was rather imposing, but 
 did not strike me forcibly. The high dignitaries of 
 the Church were dressed in rich gold-embroidered 
 robes, and looked ferociously pious ; but during 
 their wails, lamentations, waving of censers, and 
 
Hal's TRAVELS. 41 
 
 beseechings of the Virgin Mary to pray for the re- 
 pose of the soul of Napoleon I., I could not but 
 think of the impious manner in which they had 
 desecrated the Sabbath but the day before. 
 
 After the service concluded, I spent the rest of 
 the da3^ in wandering about from place to place, see- 
 ing the various shows and sights got up for the oc- 
 casion. The large plot of ground in front of the 
 Invalides (from fifty to one hundred acres) was 
 crowded with exhibitions of all kinds. There were 
 five or six circuses going on, four theatres, the whole 
 fronts being entirely open ; several platforms on 
 which were performing rope-dancers, dancing-girls, 
 tumblers, etc. ; innumerable Punch and Judy shows ; 
 monkeys and ponies performing ; one or two 
 dozen "flying-jennies" on which twenty or thirty 
 persons could ride at once; several sham-battles; 
 four very tall greased poles, on the tops of which were 
 hung watches and other trinkets, prizes for any one 
 who could reach them. I noticed one chap who had 
 started up with his pockets full of pulverized chalk 
 which he rubbed upon the pole as he ascended. He 
 had almost reached the prize, but my attention being 
 called to sometliing else, I did not see how he came 
 out. Balloons in the shape of mammoth bulls, 
 lions, leopards, and men, were sent up at intervals 
 during the day, and late in the evening a very large 
 balloon was let off with two men in the car attached. 
 They went vcr}' high, and soon disappeared in the 
 distance. All these exhibitions were free to the pub- 
 lic, being paid for l)y the government. 
 
42 hal'stravels. 
 
 Late in the evening I wandered through the large 
 open spaces of the Champs Elysees, Place de la 
 Concorde, the Tuileries Gardens and Grove, the 
 streets de Rivoli, Boulevards, and the Place Yen- 
 dome, and found them all crowded alike with a 
 dense mass of men and women. It would be im- 
 possible almost to exaggerate the number of people. 
 Were I to say I saw a thousand acres of human 
 beings, I should fall short of the mark, and I saw 
 but a small portion of the city. 
 
 But now I come to the illumination at night. 
 "What shall I say ? What can I say about it ? Its 
 beauty was a thousand degrees beyond any thing I 
 had dreamed of. If I were to study and Avrite for 
 twelve months, and employ every word in the Eng- 
 lish language that signifies, either directly or re- 
 motely, the beautiful, you would have but a faint 
 glimmering of the scene I would attempt to paint. 
 Every street, every house, every garden, every foun- 
 tain, every tree, every column, monument, and 
 statue, was brilliant. The number of lights was 
 beyond calculation. Figures and devices of every 
 fantastic shape could be seen — festoons, eagles, 
 chicken-cocks, banners, palaces, pyramids, etc., etc., 
 could be seen on every hand. The whole city was 
 as light as day, and the streets as densely crowded 
 as could be. Our hotel (de Rivoli) fronts the Tuil- 
 eries Gardens, and the scene from our balcony was 
 as fine as could be had from any point. We could 
 see for miles. 
 
 The grand fireworks commenced about 9 o'clock, 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 43 
 
 and if Vesuvius ever presented a finer appearance, 
 it was certainly astonishing to the natives. The 
 fireworks, like the illuminating lamps, were of the 
 tri-color — red, white, and blue. 
 
 To conclude, it is estimated that there were more 
 people in Paris by far j^esterday than were ever here 
 before, and that more money was expended in getting 
 up the fetes than was ever expended since the world 
 began. 
 
 I have much more to write, but must reserve it 
 for another occasion. I must see more of Paris, and 
 will next time write you a more interesting letter. 
 For the present. Adieu. Hal. 
 
 P. S. — I must not omit to tell you that at one 
 time during Sunday I was within a few feet of Em- 
 press Eugenia. I got a good look at her, and must 
 call her beautiful. I pulled off mj'' hat, and smiled 
 and bowed to her. She waved her fan gracefully, 
 and bowed and smiled in return. (The Emperor 
 was not near enough to observe us.) Since then I 
 have felt inclined to cut the acquaintance of my 
 American friends. Don't know what I may do on 
 reflection. I dislike to do it, for I have two most 
 excellent companions, John G. and Arthur R., who, 
 by the way, are enjoying Paris extensively. 
 
44 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 Paris, for beaiit}^ and magnificence, surpasses 
 any thing I had dreamed of. Its gay inhabitants, 
 its beautiful gardens, its magnificent palaces, its 
 brilliant cafes, its lovely promenades, its cooling 
 fountains, its galleries of paintings and statuary, its 
 gorgeous shops, its bustling boulevards, and its 
 flashing quays — all these things I have heard of 
 from my youth up, but the half had not been told 
 me. Nor is it possible for me to give you any thing 
 approaching a correct idea of Paris. To be known 
 as it is, it must be seen. 
 
 I have been studying the French people assidu- 
 ously for the past three weeks, and have arrived at 
 a conclusion ! Yes, sir — I have come to a conclu- 
 sion ! You may say this is preposterous — absurd — 
 ridiculous — for a fresh import all the way from 
 Alabama (a region generally regarded by Europeans 
 as heathendom) to form, and actually express in 
 writing, an opinion of this highly enlightened and 
 doubly-refined people after a study of only three 
 weeks ! Call it what you please. I have formed 
 an opinion, and shall express it boldly, without 
 equivocation or mental reservation. It is this: 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 45 
 
 That the French arc a strange and unaccountable 
 people ! The more I see of them, the more I am 
 constrained to quote the brilliant exclamation of 
 Hans Von Vochensberg, upon liis first visit to Paris : 
 "Mine Got! vat a peoples!" and again, when he 
 saw a monkey, with eyes rolled up and hands 
 erect he exclaimed, " Donner and blitzen ! vat vill 
 de Frenchman make next?" These classic expres- 
 sions pass through my mind daily because of the 
 strange things I see. If there be any thing that a 
 Frenchman cannot make or imitate, I don't know 
 what it is. And if they are not a happy people, 
 appearances are deceptive, for they always seem so. 
 Few of them have homes. They live in hired apart- 
 ments, and take their meals at restaurants. It is 
 quite common to see whole families walk into a 
 restaurant together, and take dinner. The mass 
 of the people seem to live out-doors — all classes. 
 The public squares, gardens and groves, are thronged 
 from morning till night. You will see family groups 
 sitting in the shade in those pleasant gardens, chat- 
 ting merrily, and doing their work as if they were 
 at home. Fathers read the papers, mothers and 
 grown-up daughters ply the needle, little girls skip 
 the rope, and little boys play ball or fly kites. 
 Belles promenade, and young "whiskernndoes" do 
 the agreeable. To a stranger it looks like a per- 
 petual fete. Babies are never heard to cry here. 
 
 The garden of the Tuilcries is a place of general 
 resort; is very extensive, and contains many beau- 
 tiful fountains, and a great number of statues. A 
 
46 II AL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 band of fifty instruments plays here almost every 
 evening, at government expense, for the edification 
 of the people — also at many other places of resort. 
 This is one of the means adopted by Louis Na- 
 poleon to render the people content, and keep them 
 from taking oif his head. 
 
 I have not confined my observation alone to the 
 French people. There are many strangers here — 
 many Americans, but more English. It pays well 
 to note their manners. They are a peculiar people 
 — the English are. They delight in hating the 
 "frog-heating basses," as they call the French, an0. 
 suffer no opportunity to pass to speak disparagingly 
 or contemptuously of them. The French, in turn, 
 take pleasure in turning up their noses at the pecu- 
 liarities and bigotry of the John Bulls. It is amus- 
 ing to hear the English speak of the French and 
 their institutions. I dropped in at the Grand Hotel 
 du Louvre the other evening, and spent a delicious 
 half-hour listening to the conversation of a small 
 squad of angry Britons. One of them, it seemed, 
 had been swindled by a coachman out of ever so 
 many sous ; was in consequence very wrathy, and 
 considered himself licensed to say just what he 
 pleased about the entire French nation ; and all 
 he said was endorsed by his companions. He 
 termed them a " 'eathenish, houtlandish people; 
 hutterly hignorant of the courtesies due a stranger." 
 Believed they would, from the Emperor down, 
 "cheat the heyes out of a man if they could." 
 Thought it strange they didn't "learn to speak 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 47 
 
 Hinglish." Thought the French hangungc "'oi-rible 
 gibberish." Met another party in Bois de Bouhigne, 
 a magnificent woodland park — the finest, perhaps, in 
 the workL They acknowledged its beauty, but said 
 that "for a display of tine hequipages and haristo- 
 cracy, it was hinferior to 'yde Park in London." 
 Still another party, at the Jardin des riantes, con- 
 ceded that it was very extensive and beautiful, but 
 then "the hanimals were hinferior to those in the 
 Zoolo2:ical Gardens in Reo-ent's Park." As to the 
 public buildings of Paris, they were not to be com- 
 pared with St. Paul's. Pronounced the French 
 30oker3' "'orrid." From what I have seen and 
 heard, I am constrained to believe that the English 
 hate (not to say fear) the French with the hatred 
 that only the intensely jealous feel. But the French 
 turn up their noses, and laugh in their sleeves (they 
 are too polite to laugh openly) at the growling 
 British. 
 
 But with all the blutY bluntness and dogmatical 
 bigotry of the English people, and with all their 
 scorn and jealousy of every thing not English, I 
 shall favor their success (much as I like the French) 
 whenever there is a war between them and their 
 Gallic neighbors — and that there will be a war be- 
 tween them at no distant day I have no doubt. 
 Such a war, if declared to-morrow, would be popu- 
 lar on both sides the Channel. The reasons why I 
 should favor England are obvious. She is our 
 mother. Her language is the same, her religion is 
 
48 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the same, and lier government nearly the same. 
 This is more than we can say of any other country 
 upon earth ; therefore my cry shall be, " Vioe VAn- 
 gleierrel" 
 
 Many of the streets of this cit}^ are broad and 
 beautiful. The Boulevards, a succession of wide 
 streets, are said to be the finest in the world. One 
 of them — the Boulevard des Italiens — is the chief 
 thoroughfare for fashion and gaycty. Here tlie 
 Mrs. Harrises and the Flora McFlimseys most do 
 congregate ; and here people may be met every 
 day, the worldwide fame of whom would render 
 them "lions" anywhere but in Paris. Should one 
 of them chance to visit the United States, his 
 advent would be heralded by telegraph, from Maine 
 to Texas, and the toadies of Kew York would get 
 up a demonstration. 
 
 A stranger in Paris, from a Christian country, is 
 almost forced to the conclusion that this is a God- 
 despising, infidel people. The workshops, liquor- 
 shops, stores, and all other kinds of work and play 
 go on here on Sunday as on other days. Theatres, 
 circuses, gambling-hells, and all other places of 
 amusement and infamy, are open. The public 
 works by the Government and city are carried on. 
 In short, Sunday is little regarded by the masses. 
 
 But there is some salt in Paris; some people 
 who worship God in the good old way. Found a 
 little Methodist chapel, last Sunday, and heard an 
 old-fashioned Methodist sermon. It seemed like 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 49 
 
 getting back home ; for both the singing and 
 preaching were such as I have often heard there. 
 The congregation was English. 
 
 Went to the Opera last night, and witnessed the 
 performance of Robert le Diable. I was greatly- 
 pleased with the music, which was the finest I ever 
 heard. I never before heard a hundred voices in 
 chorus, accompanied by nearly as many instru- 
 ments. The Opera, like every thing else in Paris, 
 is on a grand scale. They bore with big augers 
 liere, and whatever they undertake to do they do 
 with a vim. 
 
 It is raining here to-day; a thing much less 
 common in Paris than in London. People, how- 
 ever, don't seem to mind it. The streets are pretty 
 well thronged. Crinoline is displayed liberally ; 
 and ladies' knees are no secret in Paris. Modesty 
 is a jewel here ; yet it is to be found. 
 
 I have hardly 3'et become reconciled to the hours of 
 serving meals here : coffee at eight or nine o'clock, 
 breakfast at twelve, and dinner at six. No two arti- 
 cles of food are ever served on the same plate. The 
 stuff' the French call bread, is a libel — a slander 
 upon the genuine article ; almost tough enough to 
 draw teeth ; innocent of butter, lard, or salt ; open 
 as honeycomb, but with none of its sweetness, and 
 is never used until it is stale. It is bought by the 
 yard or foot, to suit purchasers. This is no joke, 
 but a stubborn fact. The bakers furnish it in rolls 
 from a yard to a yard and a half in length, about 
 
50 HAL's TRAVELS. 
 
 the size of a man's arm. Go into a restaurant, and 
 you may see these rolls stacked in one corner of the 
 room, one end resting upon the floor, and the other 
 against the wall. 
 
 Our party will he divided in a few days. John 
 and myself are going into Germany, on the Rhine, 
 to be there during the vintage, or grape harvest. 
 "We are anxious to learn all we can about the culti- 
 vation of the grape, and the modus operandi of 
 making wine. Arthur and Camp Turner (who, by 
 the way, I had almost forgotten to tell you is of our 
 party now — and a valuable accession too) will re- 
 main here and pursue their studies till cool weather, 
 when they contemplate uniting with us in Italy. 
 
 If I had time, I would tell you something about our 
 visit to Yersailles, and o£ the ff teen miles of paintings 
 we saw there, representing all the important battles 
 fought by the French nation for fourteen hundred 
 years. The palace covers twenty acres of ground, 
 and the forest belonging to it six thousand acres ! 
 
 The strong-minded maiden lady — the literary 
 female mentioned in a previous letter — is here. She 
 is "doing up" Paris with a rush. She goes out at 
 all hours of the day, and in all sorts of weather. If 
 there be any sights in Paris that she don't find, 
 they'll hardly be worth looking for. Being of the 
 pantaloons order of ladies, she goes it alone. I 
 love, honor — yea, reverence — a modest, retiring 
 woman ; but from a he woman, good Lord deliver 
 me ! 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 51 
 
 We go from here first to Brussels, where we shall 
 spend a week or two perhaps. 
 
 Yours, Hal. 
 
 P. S.— Dr. Ford, Miss Ilohson, and Miss Elliott, 
 of Nashville, are spending a season here. They 
 have just returned from a tour through Switzerland 
 and on the Rhine — one of the most iuterestinsr 
 
 o 
 
 tours that can be made in Europe. 
 
52 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 In the beginning of this letter permit me to make 
 a few suggestions for the benefit of all Americans 
 who ever expect to travel on this continent. I 
 advise them, in making their preparations to leave 
 home, to lay in a good supply of charity, forbear- 
 ance, brotherly kindness, and as much patience as 
 they can conveniently carry. They will find abun- 
 dant use for all these graces at every stage of the 
 journey — especially the latter. I thought I started 
 with a pretty good supply, but it is well-nigh ex- 
 hausted. A few more such attacks as I have suf- 
 fered since my arrival in the Belgian capital, and I 
 shall be "done for." Since my arrival here the 
 beggars have stuck to me like the locusts to the 
 Egyptians. The "commissionaires," who seek to 
 guide me over the city, I have found harder to shake 
 off than a New York hack-driver, or a hanger-on 
 about a Niagara Falls hotel. Thus far I have kept 
 them at bay. I have to use my stick to keep off the 
 dirty-faced beggar children, many of whom carry 
 disgustingly besmeared babies in their arms to 
 excite compassion. I don't know which predomi- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 53 
 
 nates hero, the beggars or the black-robed, broad- 
 brimmed Catholic clergy. The number of each is 
 alarminer. I am told that their number is corre- 
 spoudingly great or small in all Catholic countries. 
 "Where you find one, the other is sure to be. A 
 numerous armed police is alwaj^s necessary, too, in 
 such countries. 
 
 This is the greatest city for bells I have yet found. 
 A stranger is apt to think, from the incessant ring- 
 ing of ponderous bells, that the town is burning up. 
 Even now while I w^rite, between eight and nine 
 o'clock at night, the din is distracting. If I make 
 any egregious blunders in this letter, you may lay 
 the sin to the bells of Brussels, or to the Catholic 
 Church. 
 
 Speaking of churches, this city is somewhat 
 famous for its ancient and costly edifices. There 
 are some here many hundreds of years old. I have 
 visited some of them, and found them quite interest- 
 ing on account of their age, architecture and paint- 
 ings. The Church of St. Gudule is the finest 
 church in the city, and one of the finest in Europe. 
 It is truly magnificent, and I found it interesting to 
 wander throngh and around it for hours. The 
 painting of the windows is not surpassed anywhere. 
 .The internal adornments are elaborate, and quite 
 enchanting to all who admire sculpture and paint- 
 ings. In this church are deposited what are called 
 the miraculous wafers, said to have been stolen from 
 the altar at the instigation of a sacrilegious Jew, and 
 subjected to the insults of himself and brethren in 
 
64 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 their synagogues. And this outrageous and diabo- 
 lical act is said to have been committed on Good 
 Friday^ which of course added to the heinousness 
 of the sin. It is said that wheu these Jewish scof- 
 fers stuck their knives in the wafers, jets of blood 
 burst forth from the wounds, and that, by a second 
 miracle, they were struck senseless. The sinful 
 Jews who had done this were denounced by one 
 who had been converted to Christianity, and were 
 seized and put to death by the most cruel treatment, 
 having their flesh torn ofl'by hot pincers before they 
 were burned to death at the stake. This is said to 
 have taken place about the end of the fourteenth 
 century. This "triumph of the faith," as it is called 
 here, is celebrated once a year, on the Sunday fol- 
 lowing the fifteenth of July, by a solemn procession 
 of the clergy, and an exhibition of the identical 
 wafers. This is Catholicism in Belgium. You 
 may know by this to what degree the intelligence 
 of the people rises. That beggars abound here is 
 not to be wondered at. 
 
 But with all its superstitions and gullibility, I 
 must say that Brussels is a beautiful city. The mod- 
 ern part of the city (which my friend Gamble and 
 myself have succeeded in exploring without the aid 
 of a commissionaire) is decidedly handsome, and 
 would not suffer much by a comparison with Paris. 
 Indeed, Brussels has been called, and not without 
 reason, Paris on a small scale. The streets are broad 
 and straight, while the buildings are magnificent, 
 being uniformly four stories high, and nearly all 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 5^ 
 
 of a snowy whiteness — built of stone or brick, stuc- 
 coed. The old part of the city is not so handsome. 
 The buildings are all line and good, and the streets 
 are kept perfectly clean, but they are very narrow 
 most of them, and run in no particular direction. 
 They wind about every way, and I tind it the easiest 
 thing in the world to get lost among them. It would 
 be hard for a snake to put itself into a more awk- 
 ward shape than the streets of lower Brussels. 
 
 And, by the way, speaking of these winding 
 streets reminds me of a little incident I met with 
 to-day. I was threading my way along one of them, 
 and met two well-dressed ladies, who seemed to be 
 wandering about at random. They were looking up 
 at signs, and showed plainly by their actions that they 
 were strangers in the city. Being a stranger myself, I 
 sympathetically halted near them, when they ap- 
 proached me, and one of them asked, " Sir, do you 
 speak English ?" Throwing myself back as straight 
 as a policeman, (for I was glad to hear my native 
 language spoken in this modern Babel,) I replied, 
 "Madam, I don't speak au}^ thing else!" "Then, 
 sir," said she, "will you be so kind as to tell us 
 where to find a lace manufiictory ?" "Madam," 
 said I, "I will not tell you, but shoio you a lace manu- 
 factory," which I did in short order. I found them 
 to be a couple of English ladies who had wandered 
 out from their hotel — very polite, and as thankful 
 for my assistance as it is in the nature of the Eng- 
 lish to be. 
 
 And now, being at the lace manufiictory, I will 
 
56 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 tell you something about it. The lace is all made 
 by hand, uo machinery whatever being used in the 
 making of the Brussels lace. Some thread was 
 shown me, so fine, that I was told a pound of it was 
 worth iioelve hundred dollars ! and that when manu- 
 factured into lace the pound would be worth nearly 
 three times that amount of money ! It was almost 
 like a spider's web. The women who make the lace 
 labor very hard, and frequently ruin their eyes while 
 they are yet young. A lace handkerchief worth ten 
 dollars requires sixtj'-five days labor ; other laces 
 in the same proportion. This city, as Americans all 
 know, is celebrated for its fine laces. Not only the 
 figures but the groundwork of Brussels laces are 
 made by hand. The proprietor of the establishment 
 made desperate efforts to sell me a bill of laces, but 
 I resisted the temptation to buy. 
 
 Went out to Waterloo yesterday, and spent the 
 day wandering about over the old battle-ground. 
 Had Sergeant Munday (who was in the battle of 
 Waterloo) for a guide. He is an Englishman, and 
 of course points out all the interesting parts of the 
 field with pride. E"o man who looks at the ground 
 carefully will wonder at the defeat of the French. 
 The English had great advantage in position. The 
 Duke of Wellington had reconnoitred and chosen 
 the ground with a view to draw !N^apoleon into a 
 battle there twelve months before the battle was 
 fought. In the midst of the field a great mound of 
 earth has been thrown up to mark the spot where 
 the bones of the thousands of friends and foes lie 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 57 
 
 heaped together. The mound is two hundred feet 
 high, and sixteen hundred feet in circumference at 
 the base. It is surmounted by the Belgic lion, a 
 huge bronze cast, which, with the pedestal it stands 
 upon, is forty feet high. This lion is intended as a 
 memorial of the Prince of Orange, and to mark the 
 spot where he was wounded. 
 
 The church and churchyards of "Waterloo village 
 are crowded with memoria,l8 of English officers. 
 They contain about thirty tablets and monuments 
 to those who fell. 
 
 Waterloo is twelve miles from Brussels. "Went 
 out on a great lumbering stage-coach, crowded in- 
 side and out with passengers, all English, except Gr. 
 and mj'self. Had the good fortune to sit facing two 
 prim English spinsters on an outside seat. Took 
 them for sisters from the favor. Both had auburn 
 hair — intensely auburn — in fact, some people would 
 call it red ; thin lip^;, and tiery, spiteful-looking 
 eyes. It would have required more than an ordinary 
 amount of courage to have sought information as to 
 the age of either of those damsels. Held their 
 heads very high, and sat straight as Indians. I tried 
 to draw one of them into conversation, but could n't. 
 Thought I had succeeded once, when she ventured 
 a reply to a remark I made about the extremely hard 
 features of the Belgian peasantry. Said she thought 
 the " Belgian childring looked rather hinteresting." 
 Our confab ended here. I amused myself with 
 drumming Yankee Doodle on the footboard, while 
 
58 HAL's TRAVELS. 
 
 sTie elevated her head two or three degrees higher, 
 and looked defiantly at her male companions. 
 
 Before getting off the stage upon reaching the 
 battle-ground, we were set upon by a horde of relic- 
 venders, who stuck to us as tenaciously as the Brus- 
 sels beggars. Every ragged urchin in the neigh- 
 borhood seemed to have a pocket full of bullets, 
 buttons, and other relics, said to have been picked 
 up on the battle-field. Our guide told us that he 
 was sure that enough such relics had been sold there 
 to supply a dozen such battles as that of "Waterloo. 
 
 The road between Brussels and "Waterloo is 
 thronged with beggars. It is as amusing as it is 
 lamentable to see the eagerness with which the chil- 
 dren from five to twelve years old run after the 
 coach. The oldest of them will follow it for miles 
 in a brisk trot, occasionally turning summersaults 
 to attract the attention of passengers. Others hump 
 themselves, throw back their heads, and with their 
 shaijory hair streaming in the wind, and their elbows 
 pointing back like the knees of a grasshopper, will 
 run for nearly an hour without seeming to tire, 
 never taking their eyes ofi:' the passengers. If they 
 get a copper or two, all right; if not, they don't 
 seem disappointed. 
 
 ]S"ow all these things — the manners, customs, fol- 
 lies, 8uj)erstition8, etc., are interesting to me, for my 
 object in travelling is to see and learn. I think I 
 am getting the full value of my time, trouble, and 
 money. I am learning what books cannot teach. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 59 
 
 Tourists generally go in one beaten track, and tlicir 
 wake is so broad that it is difficult to steer clear of 
 it, but thus far I have succeeded in doing so. Those 
 who write books of travel, or for the^ newspaper 
 press, have a peculiarly easy way of getting up their 
 letters and volumes. It is an easy thing to write 
 either letters or books. For instance, one of these 
 learned and prolific authors will go to a city, and as 
 soon as his name is registered at his hotel, he has a 
 " commissionaire" engaged, and is on the wing see- 
 ing the lions of the place. He runs from church to 
 church, from gallery to gallery, and to all the places 
 of interest, and thus, in a few hours, he "does" the 
 entire city. At night he sits down, and, with the 
 assistance of his guide-book and "commissionaire," 
 he compiles a huge amount of matter which he 
 imagines will be read witli greediness by the un- 
 travellod, and consc(iuontly ignorant public. By 
 elaborate plagiarisms from his guide-book, and sdme 
 marvellous legends told him by his guide, he is 
 made to appear exceedingly learned and well-read. 
 This mode of getting up letters and books of travel 
 will account for the great similarity observable in 
 such productions. With a few items gathered from 
 their guides, such writers not unfrequently are en- 
 abled to enter into a learned discussion of the poli- 
 tics of the countries through which they pass. They 
 find many things to condemn, but rarely any thing 
 to commend in a government. 
 
 Now such is the track followed by most of the 
 book and letter writers. I have seen many of them 
 
60 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 since my arrival in Europe. I met one in Paris 
 three weeks ago. He is now here, having visited 
 more than a dozen other cities since leaving Paris. 
 He thinks he is collecting material for a first-rate 
 book. Bah ! 
 
 N'ow as I am travelling for my own edification, 
 and not to gather materials for a book, I shall make 
 it a point to stop long enough in every important 
 city I visit, to learn something about it. 
 
 I have now been in Brussels since Saturday last, 
 (five days,) and the beauty of this city has grown 
 upon me every day. It is a charming place, and if 
 the climate were more temperate, I should be surely 
 tempted to remain here through the winter. It is 
 the cheapest place to live in I have found in Europe. 
 Every thing is cheap except beef and mutton. 
 Hotel bills are very moderate. Dry-goods of almost 
 every description are astonishingly low. Many 
 English families live here on account of the cheap- 
 ness of living and the advantageous educational 
 facilities, but it is said that their presence is grad- 
 uallj^ banishing the cheapness they seek. 
 
 I must acknowledge my indebtedness to Gen. E. 
 Y. Fair, our Minister to Belgium, for his many 
 kindnesses; and also to the charming and highly 
 accomplished Mrs. Fair, for her amiable hospitality. 
 Alabama may well be proud of the honor of being 
 so well represented at the court of Brussels. 
 
 Farewell. 
 
 Hal. 
 
 n 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 61 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 BRUSSELS TO OSNABRUCK. 
 
 My last letter to yoii was written from the fair 
 city of Brussels, which place we left on the 10th 
 inst, and I will now proceed to give you a rambling 
 account of what I have picked up along the way 
 since that time. 
 
 Our first stopping-place was Cologne, a city re- 
 nowned both in song and story for many things — 
 its antiquity, its churches, its galleries of paintings, 
 its antique curiosities, its massive walls, its bridge 
 of boats, its castles and towers, its quaint old build- 
 -ings, its Eau de Cologne, and, more than all, for its 
 great Cathedral. Cologne is a city in which every 
 one must be interested, especially the antiquarian 
 and the architect ; whilst those who are willing to 
 be humbugged (and most people like it) will find 
 many things to rejoice their hearts, for in barefaced 
 humbugger}' and brazen impudence, Cologne bears 
 off" the palm, as will be seen before the conclusion 
 of this letter. 
 
 The first great object of attraction in Cologne is 
 the Cathe4ral, a great building, which is visited, of 
 course, by every stranger. It is a massive Gothic 
 
62 HAL's TRAVELS. 
 
 Structure, commenced liuudreds of years ago, and 
 which is yet unfinished ; and so immense is the 
 work, that the present generation will hardly see it 
 completed, although the work is being vigorously 
 prosecuted. It will be the finest, but not the largest 
 church in the world. It is 511 feet long, 231 feet 
 wide, and will be 511 feet high. To finish it, will 
 cost $5,000,000. The choir is 160 feet high. In- 
 ternally, the church seems to be almost completed, 
 and from its size, height, and disposition of pillars, 
 arches, chapels, and beautifully colored windows, 
 resembles a splendid vision. I attended the cele- 
 bration of high mass here on Sunday last. 
 
 This Cathedral, like all other Catholic churches 
 in Europe, possesses many wonderful curiosities, 
 some of which will challenge the credulity of the 
 most credulous. For instance, we are shown the 
 shrijie of the Three Kings of Cologne, or Magi, who 
 came from the East with presents for the infant 
 Saviour. The bones of these wise men are pre- 
 served in a . massive silver case. Their names, 
 Gaspar, Melchoir, and Balthazer, are inscribed 
 upon their skulls in rubies. The bedel who ex- 
 hibits these bones asserts roundly that they are 
 truly and positively the bones of the Magi, and that 
 all others who pretend to exhibit them are impos- 
 tors. There is also exhibited here a bone of St. 
 Matthew ! But the " trump card' ' of the Cologneans 
 is the church of St. Ursula, and the curiosities it 
 contains. Here the wonderful things of the city 
 are exhibited, and no traveller is permitted to pass 
 
II A L ' S T R A V E L S . 63 
 
 through Cologne without being importuned to visit 
 it. Here he is shown the bones of St. Ursula, and 
 the skulls of the eleven thousand virgins who were 
 her companions. On entering the church, these 
 hideous relics meet the eye, beneath, above, and 
 around ; the}^ are built into the walls, in the ceiling, 
 and displayed in glass cases in various parts. The 
 saint herself reposes in a coffin behind the great 
 altar, while the skulls of a select few of her asso- 
 ciates are permitted to remain near her. We are 
 told, with prodigious seriousness, that this St. Ursula 
 was the daughter of an English king, who, with 
 eleven thousand virgin followers, made a pilgrimage 
 to Rome. On their return, the whole party sutfered 
 martyrdom at Cologne, at the hands of the barba- 
 rian Iluns, because the}^ refused to break their vows 
 of chastity ! The skulls of the whole 11,000 have 
 been preserved. Some of them are pierced with 
 bullet holes, which causes some skeptical infidels to 
 insinuate that they have been picked up on various 
 battle-lields. The true believers, however, scout 
 such an idea. In this church is also one of the ves- 
 sels in which the water was turned into wine at the 
 marriage in Cana of Galilee. Now, all these things, 
 including a piece of the true cross, and one of the 
 identical thorns with which our Saviour was crowned, 
 are exhibited with imperturbable gravity, (not to say 
 impudence,) and the spectator besought to believe 
 that they are truly what they are represented to be. 
 To see them costs money, of course, but what seeker 
 after knowledge would refuse to pay a few francs to 
 
64 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 see so many wonderful relics ! The student of hu- 
 man nature is richly repaid for his time and money, 
 in witnessing the coolness with which these people 
 assert the genuineness of their relics ; while the 
 credulous antiquarian views them with an astonish- 
 ment only equalled by his delight. The Roman 
 Catholics are great judges of human nature. They 
 know that the people love to be humbugged, and 
 knowing this, they delight in humbugging them. 
 They find it a paying business. They have learned 
 that the wise man is as susceptible as the fool, and 
 will pay his money for being humbugged with equal 
 liberality. Barnum, as a Bishop, would be a jewel 
 to the Catholic Church. 
 
 But aside from the churches of Cologne and their 
 curiosities, I viewed the city with much interest. 
 I walked about the narrow streets, looked at the 
 moss-covered walls and sharp antique gables, and 
 wondered how many centuries the storms had beat 
 upon them — strolled upon the old Roman walls and 
 gazed at the old towers — sauntered upon the quay 
 and the bridge of boats, and looked with delight up 
 and down the classic Rhine, admiring the curiously 
 shaped little steamers as they scudded by. And 
 then the people look so odd ! The great wooden 
 shoes, the fiarinff caps, and the short skirts of the 
 peasant women, were objects of interest. The 
 clumsy wagons and carriages, the large horses and 
 small donke3^s, to say nothing of the dogs in har- 
 ness, all came in for a share of admiration. 
 
 From what I saw while there, I would say that 
 
iial'stravels. 65 
 
 the ladies of Cologne were fond of being seen. 
 Large numbers were on the streets at all times. 
 Now in some portions of our country, ladies' feet 
 are little more than traditionary leg-ends, but not so 
 with the Prussian ladies. Their feet are palpable 
 facts, not sought to be concealed, but displayed with 
 much boldness. Nor are they wanting in size. A 
 visitor at Cologne will be struck with these facts. 
 
 I would write a paragraph about the filthiness of 
 the streets and alleys of Cologne, if I could do so 
 without following in the footsteps of other WTiters ; 
 but as everybody who writes at all about this city 
 gives them a benefit, I shall pass them by. Much 
 ink has been shed and many hard things said about 
 these streets, and some have been so uncharitable 
 as to even abuse them in poetrj', which is terrible, 
 you know. Now I remember to have read once a 
 verse or two, by some heartless individual, running 
 somewhat thus : 
 
 "In Col'n, that town of monks and bones, 
 And pavements fanged with murderous stones, 
 And hags and rags and hideous wenches, 
 I counted two-and-sevcnty stenches, 
 All well-defined and genuine stinks! 
 
 The river Rhine, it is well known, 
 Doth wash the city of Cologne ; 
 But tell me, yc powers divine ! 
 What e'er can wash that river Rhine ?" 
 
 It was confidently predicted by the people of 
 Cologne, that the writer of the above wicked lines 
 would come to no good end, which proved true ; for 
 
66 hal'stravels. 
 
 not many years after, he was suffocated by tlie 
 stench, in one of the alleys of that city. Verdict of 
 the jury of inquest, "Served him right." 
 
 Eau de Cologne, so renowned all over the world, 
 is pleaded as an offset to the two-and-seventy 
 stenches observable in the city. It is an article of 
 considerable commerce. There are upwards of sixty 
 manufacturers of the article, and, strange to say, 
 more than half of them bear the name of Farina, all 
 claiming to be descendants of the original inventor 
 of the perfume, whose name was Farina. He lived 
 in 1670. Jean Maria Farina is said to be the right- 
 ful heir. Don't know how many of them bear the 
 name of Jean Maria. 
 
 But let us leave the perfumed city of Cologne, and 
 sa}' a word about Osnabriick — a city of smaller size, 
 less note, and less odoriferous, but one which has a 
 name and a place in history, and is withal no mean 
 city. Osnabriick contains about 15,000 inhabitants, 
 and is one of the oldest cities I have seen. It is, I 
 believe, the capital of a province of the kingdom of 
 Hanover — is a walled city, situated very prettily in 
 a level plain, surrounded on nearly all sides by high- 
 lands, which present a picturesque appearance. 
 Friend G. and myself have been here several days, 
 enjo3ang ourselves extensively, having been kindly 
 and hospitably entertained in the families of Mr. L. 
 and Mrs. H. We shall remember Osnabriick and 
 some of its good citizens for many days. Mr. L. 
 and young Mr. H. have kindly showed us all the 
 notable buildings, and other things of interest, in- 
 
hal'stravbls. 67 
 
 eluding the cliurclies, City Hall, and some very fine 
 Coffee Houses and Gardens in the suburbs. The 
 Cathedral and St. Maria's (Lutheran) are the finest 
 churches in the city. The City Ilall is a castellated 
 building, in which the negotiations for the peace of 
 Westphalia were conducted. It contains a curious 
 collection of very old plate. In the open space op- 
 posite this Hall stands a bronze statue of Justus 
 Moser. An evening or two ago, in company with 
 the intelligent Mrs. H. and her accomplished 
 daughters, we drove out to the ancient village of 
 Iburg, and viewed the venerable castle and palace 
 from which the village takes its name. The scenery 
 about Iburg cannot be sketched by any thing short 
 of a master's pencil ; it would therefore be bad taste 
 in me to attempt it. I would, however, say to all 
 travellers who pass through Hanover, to visit Iburg, 
 and view the surrounding panorama from the 
 heights of the Groat Timpen. I would also recom- 
 mend a visit to Schwitzenhotf, a beautiful place of 
 general resort and recreation for all the good people 
 of Osnabriick. Also "Little Switzerland." 
 
 Taking the people of Osnabriick for a sample, I 
 must say that I am much pleased with the Germans. 
 I find them, so far as my acquaintance extends, in- 
 telligent, educated, and refined, and also very hospi- 
 table. Their great number of places of public resort 
 and amusement, shows them to be a very lively, fun- 
 loving people ; philosophers who believe in enjoying 
 time as it passes. This is all right. I sliould like 
 them more, however, if it were not for their national 
 
68 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 and individual disregard of the Sabbath. They do 
 not seem to have learned all the Commandments. 
 
 We shall start to-morrow for Coblenz on the 
 Rhine, and shall probably make a little trip from 
 there up the Moselle river, on which is said to be 
 some of the finest scenery in Europe, and where the 
 grape is grown to great perfection. Moselle wines 
 are celebrated and quite popular. From there we 
 will wander on up the Rhine at leisure. We wish 
 to see the country as it is, and shall therefore take 
 our time. It is the object of travellers generally to 
 travel over as much territory as they can in as short 
 a space as possible. But we are content to see less 
 and learn more. Adieu. 
 
 Hal. 
 
n A L'S TRAVELS. Ct) 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 ON THE RHINE. 
 
 When Beavers was a candidate for Congress, in 
 1857, he opened the canvass with a history of the 
 Democratic party, which he continued from day to 
 day, at his different appointments, until he finished 
 it, beginning each day at the place he left ofl:' the daj' 
 before ; thus giving to each audience its portion, not, 
 however, in due season. I shall adopt Beaver's plan in 
 this letter, and begin where I left off in my last. That 
 was dated Osnabriick, and it is but proper that you 
 should know my wanderings since leaving that city. 
 "Well, I left there about a week ago, and have since 
 that time been lingering among and drinking in 
 the beauties of the Rhine, gliding upon its peaceful 
 bosom, climbing the lofty peaks along its margin, 
 exploring the feudal castles and ruined towers 
 which crown their craggy heights ; in short, I have 
 been bathing and basking amid those classic scenes 
 that have been intermingled with my day-dreams 
 from early boyhood. The first grand scenery of 
 the Rhine begins with the " Seven Mountains," not 
 far above the city of Bonn. At Cologne we bought 
 .tickets and embarked on a steamer for Coblenz ; 
 
70 IIAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 but finding that it would be downright stupidity to 
 rush by so much beautiful scenery at steamboat 
 speed, we debarked at Konigswinter, a town just 
 opposite the tallest of the " Seven Mountains," and 
 have since that time been wandering from place to 
 place on foot, which is the only way the Rhine and 
 its neighborhood can be properly seen. He who 
 travels up or down this glorious river by steamer, 
 never stopping, and then boasts of having seen its 
 beauties, is a deceived individual. 
 
 At Eonigswinter we were met by a swarm of 
 commissioners or guides, each of whom professed 
 to know every inch of ground and every stone 
 upon the Seven Mountains. We succeeded, after a 
 struggle, in fighting our way through them just in 
 time to be set upon by a horde of muleteers, who 
 wanted us to ride up the mountain upon diminu- 
 tive donkeys, no larger than billygoats. We 
 resisted the temptation to ride, notwithstanding 
 the red saddles, and, with our staves in our hands, 
 started up on foot. It looked like a perilous under- 
 taking to reach the pinnacle of the Drachenfels, 
 (Dragon Rock,) on the top of which stands, or 
 rather seems to hang, a noble old ruin. We reached 
 it, however, and the view amply repaid the toil. 
 This rock and ruin has been rendered more interest- 
 ing by the verses of Byron : 
 
 " The castled crag of Drachenfels 
 
 Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine ; 
 Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
 Between the banks which bear the vine ; 
 
hal's travels. 71 
 
 And hills all rich with blossomed trees, 
 And fields which promise corn and wine ; 
 
 And scattered cities crowning these, 
 
 Whose far white walls along them shine, 
 
 Have strewed a scene which I should see 
 
 With double joy, wcrt thou with me. 
 
 "And peasant girls, with deep blue eyes, 
 
 And hands which offer early flowers, 
 Walk smiling o'er this Paradise. 
 
 Above, the frequent feudal towers 
 Through green leaves lift their walls of gray; 
 
 And many a rock which steeply towers, 
 And noble arch, in proud decay, 
 
 Look o'er this vale of vintage bowers. 
 But one thing want these banks of Rhine — 
 Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine ! 
 
 " The river nobly foams and flows ; 
 
 The charms of this enchanted ground, 
 And all its thousand turns, disclose 
 
 Some fresher beauty varying round. 
 The haughtiest breast its wish might bound 
 
 Through life to dwell delighted here: 
 Nor could on earth a spot be found 
 
 To nature and to me so dear. 
 Could thy dear eyes, in following mine. 
 Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine." 
 
 ^ From the heights of Dracheufcls I counted twelve 
 cities and towns in plain view, besides a number of 
 ruined castles on other points along the river. 
 
 We descended about sundown, and slept at our 
 inn at Konigswinter. In the morning we shouldered 
 our carpet-bags, crossed the river," and took our 
 way along the high road towards the village of 
 Rolandseck, above which, on the heights, stands 
 
72 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the ruin of the ancient baronial fortress and tower 
 of Eolaudseck. There is a little romantic story 
 connected with this ruin. It receives its name from 
 a tradition that the famous Roland, nephew of 
 Charlemagne, chose this spot because it commanded 
 a view of the convent of Nonnenworth, (which con- 
 vent still stands on an island in the river, just oppo- 
 site,) within whose walls his betrothed bride had 
 taken the vail, upon hearing a false report of his 
 having fallen in battle. He lived here a lonely 
 hermit for many years, which has furnished the 
 subject of one of Schiller's most beautiful ballads, 
 "The Knight of Toggenburg." The scene, how- 
 ever, has been transferred b}'' Schiller from the 
 Khine to Switzerland. So says Murray. 
 
 After climbing to this height, and viewing the 
 grand scenery from many points, we again de- 
 scended, and took the highway for the town of 
 Ramagen, in the course of which we met with an 
 adventure not to be forgotten. (I had forgotten to 
 mention that there are now three in our party, 
 instead of but two, young Mr. HoUenberg having 
 accompanied us from Osuabrlick. He speaks both 
 German and English, and is quite an agreeable 
 travelling companion.) The road runs immediately 
 through vineyards nearly the whole way. The 
 vines bend beneath the weight of a heavy crop, 
 and, as there are no fences in this country, the 
 luscious clusters hang temptingly over the road. 
 We hailed this sight with a gladness similar to that 
 of the spies who entered the promised land. See- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 78 
 
 ing SO many hundreds of acres of the blusliing 
 fruit, and deeming it nothing amiss, we, with that 
 innocence peculiar to ignorance, began to pluck 
 and eat. A long, gangling, blue-shirted fellow, 
 standing in the road some hundred 3'ards ahead of 
 us, raised his long bony arm ominously, and uttered 
 a horrible sentence, in which our friend H. detected 
 the word "police." He then called some half 
 dozen laborers, near by, and with them started for 
 the village of Oberwinter, (I shall always remember 
 the name,) lying just ahead of us. We followed 
 on very slowly, feeling assured that something was 
 going to happen. When we entered the village we 
 saw heads projected from every window, and know- 
 ing winks and nods were passed from neighbor to 
 neiijhbor as we threaded the narrow streets. Youns: 
 women laughed at us, and the old women looked at 
 us with a sort of pitying expression, while the 
 crowd of boys trudging at our heels momentarily 
 swelled and grew larger. It was evident that every- 
 body in Oberwinter knew that we were in a scrape. 
 Even the dogs barked at us. At the far end of the 
 village we saw a crowd collected, in the midst of 
 which stood the blue-shirted individual, with his 
 arms going like winding-blades. Ilis gestures in- 
 dicated that we were the subject of his discourse. 
 We trudged on, and, upon reaching the crowd, 
 were surrounded by the rabble, and informed that 
 we must go before the burgomaster of the town, to 
 answer to the charge of stealing grapes. The 
 tongue of the informant was eroinc: like a bell- 
 
74 hal'stravels. 
 
 clapper, and the witnesses who had accompanied 
 him were scarcely less noisy. The burgomaster 
 was present, and, in a very loud tone, gave us to 
 understand that we had committed a very grave 
 ofteuce ; that he was a man of great authority, and 
 that we should feel the weight of his power. We 
 followed him into his filthy office — a small room 
 redolent of lager-beer and tobacco smoke. lie 
 opened a ponderous book, and proceeded to read 
 the law, which was all "Dutch" to us. Then, with 
 his rusty spectacles thrown back, he proceeded to 
 deliver a loud harangue, while his arms swayed to 
 and fro like the sails of a wii^d-mill. Told us we 
 must go to prison ; to which we dissented most 
 emphatically ; and my friend John was about be- 
 ginning to give the old skunk a lesson in civility 
 with the butt end of his cane, and I felt inclined to 
 give the leading w^itness a similar lesson, when 
 friend liollenberg quieted the clamor by producing 
 his purse, and asking how much money it would 
 take to get us ofl:*. The eyes of the belligerent 
 magistrate brightened, and smiles took the place 
 of frowns. But for all his smiles, John thought a 
 cudgelling due him, which he would have pro- 
 ceeded to administer, had I not persuaded him that 
 discretion was the better part of valor ; which to 
 me was evident, when I looked at the crowd 
 of big, greasy, bloused Prussians standing round. 
 The burgomaster told us if we would pay a good 
 round sum of money, (which amount would go for 
 the benefit of the poor,) we should be released. I 
 
hal's travels. 75 
 
 supposed we should have to pay ten or fifteen 
 dollars apiece, and was prepared to disburse to that 
 extent ; but Ilollenbcrg knew his countrymen better 
 than I did, and oflcrcd him half a thaler, (about 
 thirty-seven and a half cents;) which he disdain- 
 fully refused. He then offered him a thaler, and 
 told him we would give no more. lie took it, and 
 we shook the dust from our feet, and departed. As 
 we left the office, a friend said to us, (I know he 
 was a friend, from a remark he made,) " Go, gen- 
 tlemen, and sin no more."' This was the interpre- 
 tation given to the remark by II. I have made up 
 my mind as to one thing : if ever I catch that bur- 
 gomaster, or either of the half dozen bloused wit- 
 nesses, in the streets of Huntsville, I'll — I'll — but 
 there's no use sa^^ing what I'll do, for it is danger- 
 ous to make threats ; but I'll make them sorry they 
 ever saw a bunch of grapes. 
 
 Leaving Oberwinter, we soon reached the town of 
 Ramagen, an old town in which are traces of Ro- 
 man architecture, dating back to the year 375. Re- 
 mained at Ramagcn all night, and the next day 
 made an excursion up the winding valley of Ayr, 
 down which the crystal waters of the little river Ayr 
 flow beautifully. The scenery up this valley is pic- 
 turesque beyond description. "We ascended about 
 fourteen miles to the towns of Ahrweiler and Alte- 
 nah. Near the latter place is a very high peak of 
 the mountain, on the top of which stands a majestic 
 old ruin, the history of which I could not learn, ex- 
 cept that it was built by a robber chief many hun- 
 
76 HAL'ST RAVELS. 
 
 dred years ago. While standing upon the tallest 
 pinnacle, a gust of wind took my hat oft', and I have 
 not seen it since. Not wishing to return to Eama- 
 gen bareheaded, I took a large comforter which re- 
 sembled two or three yards of fancy carpeting, and 
 wound it around my head, a la Turk. I was the 
 admiration of the rustics all along the road to Rama- 
 gen, and in the village of Ahrweiler nearly the whole 
 town gathered to see me, and a crowd of little boys 
 followed me for some distance beyond the wall. 
 Some said " Turko," and others said "Zouave." I 
 enjoyed the fun very much. 
 
 After returning from the Ayr (or Ahr) valley, 
 which, by the way, is world-renowned for its vine- 
 yards, we took boat and proceeded up to Brohl, 
 (one or two hours' run,) from which point we walked 
 to Laacher Sea, where we now are. This is a very 
 singular lake, nearly circular in form, supposed to 
 occupy the. crater of an extinct volcano, is about 
 two miles long, and one and a half miles wide, and 
 very deep. The appearance of a deep blue lake 
 hemmed in on all sides hy a ridge of hills completely 
 covered with luxuriant wood down to the water's 
 edge is exceedingly beautifal, as well as singular. 
 At one end of this lake, embowered in a forest of 
 large trees, rises a grand old Abbey, with five im- 
 mense towers, built about seven hundred years ago. 
 The Abbey, with the many buildings attached to it, 
 is enclosed with a massive stone wall. This is not 
 used for church purposes now, but is private pro- 
 perty ; and many of the halls once occupied by nuns 
 
II AL'S TRAVELS. 77 
 
 and monks are now used for granaries and cow- 
 stalls. One of the buildings is an inn, in which I 
 now write. 
 
 I must now go to bed, for John and Benno have 
 been snoring this hour. Yours, etc., 
 
 Hal. 
 
 P. S. — We have passed through many vineyards 
 since our interview with the burgomaster of Ober- 
 winter, but thinking the grapes " sour," we troubled 
 them not. 
 
78 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTEE IX. 
 
 RHINE TO GENEVA, 
 
 While "taking mine ease at mine inn," and 
 smoking my fair long pipe, I will scribble yon a few 
 items picked up along the way since my last letter. 
 
 By glancing at the map, yon will see that I am 
 many hundreds of miles away from the place from 
 which I last addressed you. I was then lolling upon 
 the fair shores of the pretty little Laachar Sea, away 
 up in Prussia. Since then I have visited many 
 places. Have wandered upon the "banks of the 
 blue Moselle;" clambered among the ruins of the 
 old "Mouse Castle;" stood upon the heights of the 
 great Neiderwald ; have tarried at " Bingcn on the 
 Ehine;" have roved through the celebrated vine- 
 yards of Johannisberg ; groped through the world- 
 renowned wine-cellars of Eudesheim ; lingered in 
 the groves and around the hot springs-of Ems and 
 Weisbaden ; strolled through the streets and gardens 
 of the beautiful city of Frankfort-on-the-Main ; 
 have struggled up the high mountains and gazed 
 upon the ruined castles of Heidelberg ; have looked 
 and wondered at the great tower of the Strasburg 
 Cathedral ; have traversed the romantic hills and 
 valleys of Switzerland; stood upon "the margin of 
 
ual'stravels. 79 
 
 fair Zurich's waters;" walked beneath the dark 
 shadows of the Jura Mountains, and gazed with awe 
 at the snow-crowned, cloud-capped peaks of the 
 terrible Alps ; have sailed upon the limpid waters 
 of the lakes of Bienne, Neufchatel, and Geneva ; 
 have been charmed with the beauties of the "ar- 
 rowy Rhone," and now iind myself quietly nestled 
 down in the quiet city of Geneva, long noted for 
 its beauty, the taste of its people, and as the place 
 where they make watches. Geneva is one of the 
 most beautiful cities I have seen, situated at the 
 west end of the lake of the same name — a noble 
 sheet of water which no European traveller fails to 
 see, and which has been rendered classic by the his- 
 torian, the romance writer, and the poet. It seems 
 that the beauties of this lake well-nigh niade a vir- 
 tuous man of Lord Byron, judging by the following 
 lines penned by that illustrious poet : 
 
 "Clear, placid Lenian ! thy contrasted lake, 
 With the wild world I dwelt in, is a thing 
 Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake 
 Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring. 
 This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing 
 To waft me from distraction ; once I loved 
 Torn ocean's roar, but thy soft murmuring 
 Sounds sweet, as if a sister's voice i-eproved, 
 That I with stern delights should e'er have been so moved." 
 
 Thus was the great poet moved to write upon 
 viewing this lake when calm and peaceful. Later 
 he was nigh being lost in a storm, while making an 
 excursion on the lake, when he wrote as follows: 
 
80 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 " The sky is changed ! and such a change ! night, 
 And storm, and darkness, ye ai'e wondrous strong. 
 Yet lovely in your strength as is the light 
 Of a dark eye in •woman ! Far along. 
 From peak to peak, the rattling crags among. 
 Leaps the live thunder ! Not from one lone cloud, 
 But every mountain now hath found a tongue, 
 ^ And Jura answers through her misty shroud. 
 Back to the joyous Alps who call to her aloud! 
 
 How the lit lake shines, a phosphoric sea, 
 
 And the big rain comes dancing to the earth ! 
 
 And now again 'tis black — and now the glee 
 
 Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain-mirth, 
 
 As if they did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth." 
 
 I have been now two days in Geneva, charmed 
 and delighted with the rugged scenery which pre- 
 sents itself on every hand. The black, steep Jura 
 mountains stretch themselves all along the northern 
 f,hore of the lake. To the south rise the noble Alps, 
 and away in the distance is seen the gigantic Mont 
 Elauc, with its snow and glaciers glistening in the 
 sun. I shall not be content until I have a nearer 
 view of this giant of mountains. 
 
 If I had not begun this with a determination to 
 write a very short letter, I would tell you a great 
 deal about what I have seen within the last week or 
 two, but as I don't wish to bore you or your readers 
 very deep, I will refrain ; for it would be as a thrice- 
 told tale, as every nincompoop who travels over the 
 route, if he can write at all, must needs attempt a 
 description. I refer you to various books of travel, 
 where you will find all that I could say. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 81 
 
 I have been much interested in the vintage, and 
 have learned what I conkl about the process of cul- 
 tivating the grape and making wine. It is interest- 
 ing to see the Swiss peasantry' gathering the grapes. 
 They make a frolic of it, and sing with great glee 
 as they perform their labor. They are hard-looking 
 creatures, both male and female, the latter coarse to 
 an astonishing degree. It is romantic to talk and 
 write about the hardy and frugal Swiss peasantry, 
 and to see them at a distance is very well ; but wdieu 
 you come in contact with them, the poetry vanishes. 
 I have not yet seen a handsome or even passable 
 face among the female peasants — though it is said 
 they are virtuous and happy. I doubt not there 
 is rustic virtue among them — a vast deal of it — l)ut 
 they are certainly a most filthy people. They labor 
 in the fields much harder than the negroes of the 
 South, and every woman among them can carry a 
 load upon her head that would make an ordinary 
 mule stagger. They live like hogs — men, women, 
 children, horses, cow's and goats, all under the same 
 roof 
 
 But I must close this brief scroll. John, who has 
 just come in, (he has been out to buy us some to- 
 bacco,) says it is time to go to bed. We start for 
 Italy to-morrow. Shall cross the Alps by way of 
 the Simplon Pass. Shall have plenty of company. 
 The flat-bosomed lady, w^ho is gathering notes for a 
 book, will probably be in the party — also the bandy- 
 legged gentleman who w^ears gold spectacles, of 
 wdiom I intended to tell you, but sha'n't do it now. 
 
82 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Friend Robinson has declined going to Italy, pre- 
 ferring to return home, and will probably go by the 
 steamer that carries this letter, or soon after. He 
 says he is tired of Europe. I regret his determina- 
 tion much, for he is a noble travelling companion, 
 and I had hoped to spend the winter with him be- 
 neath the "fair Italian skies." Had also hoped to 
 have friend Turner with us, (who is as clever as 
 boys ever get to be,) but fear we shall not. Don't 
 know what his plans are. He is in Paris. 
 
 Farewell. Hal. 
 
UAL'S TRAVELS. 83 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 GENEVA TO MILAN. 
 
 I AM at length in Italy — fair, bright, beautiful, 
 sunny Italy ! — the laud of poctrj^ and popery — of 
 souo; and sausao:es — music and maccaroni — of 
 orange-groves and organ-grinders — of roses and 
 ro2:ues — of soldiers and sardines — of minstrels and 
 monkeys — of fat, round-bellied priests, and lean, 
 gaunt, starving beggars — in short, the land Avhere 
 pleasure and misery jostle each other in the streets, 
 and often go hand in hand. Such is Ital^^, and 
 such are the strange blending of things here. The 
 Italian towns are all strangely marked ; houses with 
 colonnades, streets with awnings, shops teeming 
 with sausages, maccaroni and garlic ; lazy-looking, 
 loitering lazzaroni, in red nightcaps, and bare maho- 
 gany-colored legs, intermixed with mules, burly 
 priests, organ-grinders, and females veiled with the 
 black mantilla : these things fill up the picture of 
 an Italian town, poets and romance-writers to the 
 contrary notwithstanding. 
 
 But Milan is a tine city, and, to say nothing of its 
 people and their habits, is a city that any country 
 might be proud of. I have been on the pad all day, 
 
84 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 seeing its beauties and lions. The first place of in- 
 terest, and which has been termed, not inappropri- 
 ately, perhaps, the eighth wonder of the world, ia 
 the great Cathedral, the finest building, no doubt, 
 in the world, but not so large as St. Peter's at Rome 
 or St. Paul's, London. It is built of pure white 
 marble, is four hundred and ninety-one feet long, 
 three hundred and thirty-six feet high. There are 
 ten thousand spires and pinnacles on this church, and 
 seven thousand of them are surmounted with statues, 
 and the other three thousand will be when the work 
 is finished, which will require at least a century. It 
 was commenced four hundred and seventy-three 
 years ago. The interior is adorned with many fine 
 paintings. The massive windows are of the finest 
 stained glass, representing thousands of Scripture 
 scenes. The scene from the top of the Milan Ca- 
 thedral can certainly not be surpassed in the world. 
 The spires of perhaps a hundred towns and cities 
 may be seen, while in the far-off* distance may be 
 seen the snowy chain of the Alps. Mount Eosa 
 looms up more grandly than any other peak, 
 although Mont Blanc is plainly seen : the former is 
 one hundred and twenty-five miles away, and the 
 latter two hundred and twenty. 
 
 Among the other things of interest I have visited 
 in Milan, I ma};' mention the Amphitheatre, (now 
 filled with French artillery,) which is capable of 
 seating thirty-seven thousand people ! Here all the 
 fetes of a national character are performed. Also 
 went to see the great original painting of the "Last 
 
II A L '-S T R A V E L S . 85 
 
 Snpper," by Leonardo Da Vinci. It is a fresco, in 
 what was formerly the Convent of Le Grazie, but is 
 now used as a barracks for soldiers. The world is 
 flooded with copies of this celebrated painting, 
 which is a proof of its excellence. 
 
 I have visited many other places of interest in the 
 cit}', but it would be a bore to you for me to dwell 
 on them. In fact, I have no disposition to dwell on 
 them now, for I am becoming bored seriously with 
 Milan, not less than six street organs having been 
 furiously grinding near by ever since I commenced 
 this letter. I am fond of music, but too much of a 
 good thing is not pleasant. 
 
 But perhaps I ought to tell you something about 
 our trip from Geneva to this city. I will do it for 
 the want of something else to write about, although, 
 like nine out of every ten who attempt to do so, I 
 have no "knack" of describing scenerj'. 
 
 To begin : We left Geneva on the morning of the 
 ninth, just as the god of day rolled proudly and 
 sublimely up above the snowy mountains of the 
 cast. The sky was clear, serene and lovely. ]^ot a 
 breath of wind disturbed the placid bosom of the 
 silvery lake which reflected the deep shadows of the 
 black Jura on one side, and the towering Alps on 
 tlie other. Our feathery craft glided swiftly and 
 gracefully over the still waters like a thing of life, 
 and nothing was there to jar upon the senses save a 
 slight hissing of steam and the flutter of the paddle- 
 wheels, and even that seemed musical. The snowy 
 villages along the shore were as lilies nestling upon 
 
86 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the bosom of the waters, while far away iu the dis- 
 tance could be seen the beautiful city of Vevay, with 
 its tall spires reflected beautifully in the deep blue 
 lake. Our captain stood leaning lazily upon the 
 quarter -rail, smoking his pipe, while passengers 
 stood in mute wonder at the glorious scenery loom- 
 ing up on every hand. Flocks of happy waterfowl 
 were skimming about in various directions, and 
 anon the nimble trout could be seen to spring high 
 out of the water to seize the unsuspecting butterfly 
 as it dallied above the ripple. All on board that 
 little steamer seemed wrapped in meditation. Your 
 correspondent was in a peculiar mood — bordering 
 on poetry — and had actually got two lines fully com- 
 posed, when his meditations were cruelly broken in 
 upon by the literary young lady with the scanty 
 breastworks, (mentioned in former letters,) who 
 came up and said, "Why, Mr. Hal, what is the 
 matter with you ? You are as solemn as if you were 
 going to a funeral. Do rouse yourself and come 
 forward, and see what a thumpin' big fish a sailor 
 has caught. Come, it's in a tub of water in the 
 forward part of the boat." The poetry fled, and up 
 to this time I have not been able to whistle it back. 
 I went and saw the fish, of course. 
 
 But to go on with the story. We left the steamer 
 at a town called Bouveret, (pronounced Bouver«?/, 
 for you know the French take a sort of malicious 
 pleasure in pronouncing things diflferently from the 
 way they spell them,) at the east end of the lake, 
 took the cars and travelled through the mountain- 
 
hal's travels. 87 
 
 gorges for about twenty miles, where the railway 
 ceases. Here we took diligence, and continued the 
 journey up the valley of the river Rhone, until 
 about two o'clock at night, halting at the town of 
 Breig, just where the ascent of the Alps begins. 
 All along the route from Geneva to Breig we noticed 
 that the people were idle, and dressed up in their 
 Sunday clothes. We concluded that the ninth of 
 October must be a general Swiss holiday. 
 
 At Breig we stopped on the 10th, for we have 
 made it a rule, ever since leaving home, to rest on 
 the Sabbath. "Were greatly shocked to see the 
 people of Breig attending to all the ordinary affairs 
 of life, seeming to care no more for the Sabbath 
 than if they had never known such a day. The 
 smith's hammer, the mason's trowel, and the car- 
 penter's saw were heard, while the mowers in the 
 neighborhood were busy gathering in their scanty 
 crops of haj. The stores and shops were all open, 
 and the peasant women were lugging their great 
 burdens about as usual. The churches were there, 
 but no glad bell was heard calling the people to 
 worship. John and I read our Bibles, and deeply 
 commiserated the poor ignorant people, believing 
 that they were ignorant of the holiness of the day. 
 Late in the afternoon John concluded to look over 
 his diary, in doing which he discovered to his amaze- 
 ment that we were keeping 3fond(iy, and had actually 
 travelled all day Sunday ! We could then account 
 for the Swiss holida3^ 
 
 Tuesday morning we took the diligence, and 
 
88 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 started up the mountain, tlie Simplon Pass. This 
 is the best mountain road ever built. It is a tri- 
 umph of engineering skill never accomplished before 
 nor since. The world is indebted to ITapoleon 
 Bonaparte for it, who, remembering the great diffi- 
 culty he found in crossing the Alps, determined to 
 make a highway that cannon could be carried over 
 without difficulty. It is a stupendous work, the 
 greatness of which cannot be appreciated without 
 being seen. It winds up the mountain in such a 
 tortuous and zigzag way, that even where it is 
 steepest, it does not rise more than one foot in thir- 
 teen. The cost of this road averaged about $25,000 
 per mile. It took six years to build it, and more 
 than thirty thousand men were employed on it at 
 one time. Houses of refuge — seven in number — 
 are erected at convenient distances, to protect tra- 
 vellers from avalanches, which occur frequently in 
 early summer. For more than two-thirds of the 
 way up, the sides of the mountain are covered with 
 vegetation, and wherever a dozen yards of arable 
 land can be found, there is the hut of the hardy 
 mountaineer. In some places the cabins seem to 
 cling to the sides of the mountain as tenaciously as 
 a bat clings to the wall of a cavern. After gaining 
 two-thirds or more of the ascent, nothing but a pic- 
 ture of desolation surrounds the traveller. The pine 
 has no longer the scanty pittance of soil which it 
 requires for nourishment, the hardy but beautiful 
 Alpine flower ceases to embellish the sterile soli- 
 tude. The eye wanders over snow and glacier, 
 
hal'stravels. 89 
 
 fractured rock and roaring cataract, relieved only by 
 that stupendous monument of Imman labor, the 
 road itself, winding along the edges of precipices, 
 penetrating the solid granite, striding over the furi- 
 ous torrents, burrowing through dark and dripping 
 grottoes, beneath accumulated masses of ice and 
 snow. 
 
 Upon reaching the highest summit or culminat- 
 ing point of the Pass, I made a vigorous effort to 
 work myself up into a poetical mood. Thought of 
 all the romance I had read about crossing the 
 "proud Alps." Jumped up on a large rock, waved 
 my hat above my head, gazed at the country below 
 and the eternal glaciers above ; threw my shawl 
 about me, and imagined that it looked very much 
 like Julius Caesar's mantle ; and while it waved in 
 the breeze, and my hair streamed in the wind, I 
 looked away down the acclivity and saw far down 
 in the distance a great lumbering diligence with its 
 long team crawling around a point of the mountain. 
 I thought it looked like a huge ant winding round 
 a potato-hill. The idea was so ridiculous that I in- 
 voluntarily burst into a laugh, which banished ro- 
 mance. Just then I was enveloped in a passing 
 cloud, and a few spits of snow and sleet together, 
 with the piercing cold wind, Avarned me that I was 
 exposing myself, when I muffled up, and crawled 
 into the diligence. 
 
 Wo descended the mountain in a sweeping trot, 
 and slept that night in Domo d'Ossolo, Italy. The 
 next day went by diligence to Palauza on Lake 
 
90 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Maggiore, where we took steamer to Arona, and 
 finished the trip to Milan by raih'oad. Would tell 
 you something about the beauties of Lake Maggiore, 
 but these miserable hand-organs have put my head 
 to aching, so I'll quit and go to bed. Good-night. 
 
 Hal. 
 
 P. S. — We go to Venice to-morrow. If you find' 
 this letter bunglingly got up, just lay it to the organ- 
 grinders, for they have kept up a most horrible 
 squeaking. 
 
nAL'S TRAVELS. 91 
 
 LETTER XI 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 At last in Venice ! — "Beautiful Venice, the bride 
 of the sea" — a city fair to look upon, and as strange 
 as it is fair. Here the houses are palaces, the streets 
 are canals, and the omnibusses, hacks, and pleasure 
 carriages are gondolas. Dwelling in "marble halls" 
 is not a "dream" here, but a reality. Tlie Hotel 
 Vittoria, where we stop, was in olden times a marble 
 palace of great splendor; but now, like many other 
 palaces in Venice, it looks seedy. Indeed, the 
 whole city wears what may be termed a shabby- 
 genteel appearance, though it bears evidences of 
 having once been one of the richest and most mag- 
 nificent cities of the world. It is beautiful yet, but 
 cities, like belles, must fade before time. 
 
 Every thing is so strange, so quiet here. The 
 loudest noise lieard is man's voice ; no lumbering 
 drays or wagons in the streets — no clattering car- 
 riages, nor tramp of horse. There be grown-up 
 men and women too, perhaps, who never saw a 
 horse or wheeled carriage of any description ! for 
 such things are not here. Gondolas take their 
 place. 
 
 I love dearly to skim about in the graceful gon- 
 
92 hal'stravels. 
 
 dola. There is poetry about it, especially on a 
 moonlight night. Though I suspect the race of 
 gondoliers is degenerating. When Lord Bj'ron 
 lived here they used to sing as they plied the oar, 
 and we read that he caught the inspiration, and 
 upon one occasion wrote as follows : 
 
 "'Tis sweet to hear 
 At midnight, on the blue and moonlit deep, 
 The song and oar of Adria's gondolier. 
 By distance mellowed, o'er the waters sweep." 
 
 These gondoliers don't sing any more. I have 
 listened for one of their songs ever since my arrival 
 here, but have heard "nary" song. 
 
 The Grand Canal is to Venice what Broadway is 
 to 'New York — the great thoroughfare. I have 
 spent much time in gliding up and down this canal, 
 gazing at the great and gorgeous palaces, wonder- 
 stricken, with eyes stretched to a size little less than 
 tea-cups. And then the flashing eyes that beam 
 and sparkle from the palace windows, and the 
 graceful forms that lean from the balconies, set my 
 heart all a-flutter. I imagine that Jessica, the fair 
 Jewess, looked as they look, when watching for her 
 Lorenzo ; (believe that's the name of the fellow who 
 stole old Shylock's daughter.) 
 
 And I have stood upon the Rialto, the splendid 
 arch that spans this Grand Canal. Hard by it is the 
 Exchange, (it is a market now for fishes,) where 
 Antonio and Shylock were wont in former times 
 to talk of trade and commerce, and where Antonio 
 spat upon the Jew's gabardine, and called him 
 
i'J^J 
 
II AL'S TRAVELS. 95 
 
 "dog;" and it was there, or thereabout, tlic bond 
 was sealed for the pound of flesh. Some of the 
 Shylock family arc said to be still found in the 
 neighborhood. The Rialto is a specimen of archi- 
 tecture never surpassed, either in ancient or in 
 modern times. Numerous little shops for the sale 
 of bogus jewelry, cheap goods, and worthless 
 trinkets, are now upon this bridge. 
 
 St. Mark's Square is the centre of attraction in 
 Venice. It is an open space of several acres, paved 
 with marble slabs, and surrounded with buildings 
 of great magnificence. These houses are occupied 
 as splendid shops and brilliant cafes, with colonnades. 
 It is a place of general resort, and bands of music 
 often play in it. The diie of the city, and strangers 
 innumerable, may always be found in St. Mark's 
 Square. In front of the cafes, people of all nations 
 under the sun may be seen sipping their punch, 
 their wine, or their coffee — playing cards, dominoes, 
 or chess. 
 
 On one side of this square stands St. Mark's 
 Cathedral, one of the most quaint as well as most 
 magnificent buildings in the world. It would fill 
 many pages to give any thing approaching a descrip- 
 tion of this ancient structure, so I shall not attempt 
 it. N'early the whole of the interior is mosaic of 
 the finest kind, representing many sacred scenes. 
 The four gilded bronze horses, stolen, I believe, by 
 the Venetians from Constantinople, stand above the 
 grand portal of this church. The Doge's palace, of 
 which structure everybody has read something, is 
 
96 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 connected with this cathedral. In architecture it is 
 a masterpiece, and very large. I have wandered 
 through it, and looked at almost acres of paintings, 
 many of them by Titian, Tintoretto, and other old 
 masters. Titian was a Venetian. Was also con- 
 ducted through the gloomy prisons of this palace, 
 where many noble, wise, and good men have pined 
 their lives away. Also crossed the Bridge of Sighs, 
 leading from the palace prison to another prison 
 more gloomy still, and from which no prisoner ever 
 returned who entered it by way of this fatal bridge. 
 The prison is separated from the palace by a canal, 
 across which the Bridge of Sighs is suspended, some 
 twenty feet above the water. 
 
 A part of the Palazzo San Marco, or St, Mark's 
 Square, opens upon the bay, where two magnificent 
 granite columns stand, one of which is crowned 
 with a winged lion, called St. Mark's lion ; (St. Mark 
 is the patron saint of Venice, and every thing im- 
 portant must be called after him.) The story of 
 these columns is this: They were pillaged from 
 some other city, (don't remember what city,) and 
 brought to Venice many centuries ago, but so great 
 was their size that no man could be found who 
 would undertake to elevate them upon their pedes- 
 tals. After they had lain for a great many years 
 upon the ground, a celebrated gambler of the city 
 proposed to the Doge that he would raise and place 
 them upon their pedestals, upon the condition that 
 he and his friends should ever after have the privi- 
 lege of gambling between them, without being in- 
 
UAL'S TRAVELS. 97 
 
 tcrfered witli by the law. This was granted by tlie 
 Doge, although gambling was prohibited in all 
 other parts of Venice, and severely punished b}^ the 
 law. The columns were elevated on this condition, 
 but in the course of time the space between them 
 became such a resort for gamblers and desperate 
 characters, that the civil authorities found it abso- 
 lutely necessary to do something to suppress the 
 scenes there enacted. They could only do it b}^ 
 decreeing that all public executions should take 
 place on the same spot. This broke up the gam- 
 bling. 
 
 We have now been in Venice four days, and have 
 visited a great many churches, palaces, asylums, 
 etc., and have looked at and admired paintings by 
 the acre, and statues innumerable. 
 
 It would not take me long to tire of Venice ; 
 every thing is so silent and monotonous. I want to 
 be where I can see hills and movintains, and look 
 upon running water. John is already satisfied with 
 Venice. 
 
 "We came through from Milan by rail, passing 
 through Verona, Padua, etc., the former of which 
 is rendered immortal by Shakspeare, as the scene 
 where figured Romeo and Juliet. The tomb of the 
 fiiir Juliet is still pointed out to travellers. Verona 
 is also celebrated on account of its great Roman 
 amphitheatre, second only to the Coliseum at 
 Rome. Padua is also very ancient, and is also the 
 place in which some of Shakspeare's characters 
 ligured. It is the place of Livy's birth and resid- 
 4 
 
98 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ence. Giotti, the great painter, also lived tliere, and 
 his paintings adorn many of the old churches now. 
 We go from here to Florence, by way of Padua, 
 Eovego, Ferrara, Bologna, etc. Adieu. 
 
 Hal. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 99 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 VENICE TO FLORENCE. 
 
 After a vast deal of trouble and vexation by the 
 way, I am at length in the classic city of Florence, 
 the centre of art in Europe, and very near the centre 
 of poor bleeding Italy. And being snugly housed 
 in my new quarters, I cannot better spend an hour 
 perhaps than in scribbling you a few lines. 
 
 But what shall I write about? I could write col- 
 umns of doleful twaddle about the torn and dis- 
 tracted condition of the Italian States. I could get 
 up a most solemn article about the poor down-trod- 
 den Italians, who writhe beneath the iron heel of 
 Popery. I might write pages of dreary nonsense 
 about the black and threatening war-cloud that is now 
 hanging over the whole of Europe, or get up a read- 
 able article about the attitude of France and Eng- 
 land, who now stand eyeing each other like two 
 furious ram-cats upon the point of a most disastrous 
 clapper-clawing. Or I might scribble long and loud 
 about England and the United States, the San Juan 
 difficulty, and our success in the Celestial Empire, 
 and the discomfiture of the British at the mouth of 
 the Peiho. Again, I might write a stirring appeal 
 
100 iial's travels. 
 
 to the world in behalf of the Italian patriots who 
 followed the lead of Victor Emanuel and Garibaldi, 
 and loom extensively against the bloody-minded 
 Pope, and tyrannical Austria. I say, I might spread 
 myself on any or all of these subjects, but what 
 would it all amount to ? The light that I could 
 throw upon any of them would be so infinitesimally 
 small, that a glass magnifying a thousand times 
 would be required to see it. So I shall pass them 
 all by, and endeavor to pen what you may term an 
 " anti-blue-devil" document ; for I hold that he who 
 dispels one vapor from the mental sky of his read- 
 ers, does more good sometimes than he who con- 
 vulses nations. !N"onsense is a good thing in its 
 place — better on some occasions than volumes of 
 learned lore. 
 
 " A little nonsense now and then 
 Is relished by the wisest men." 
 
 So I say. Paradoxical as it may seem, nonsense is 
 sometimes the best of sense — old fogies and long- 
 faced Solons to the contrary notwithstanding. 
 
 I am no grumbler. I call upon you to bear me 
 witness that in all that I have written during my 
 travels, I have never written one line in a grumbling 
 spirit. Travellers, you know, are almost universally 
 grumblers. It is their right, and, as they pay for the 
 privilege, they love to enjoy it. Hotel -keepers, 
 Avaiters, and servants generally come in for their 
 share of censure, while the public conveyances and 
 their conductors are almost universally inveighed 
 
iial's travels. 101 
 
 agiiinst. The English traveller (and his name is 
 legion) never finds any thing on the Continent like 
 it is at " 'ome," hence he is in a grumbling mood all 
 the time. It has been a source of some amusement 
 to rac to watch and listen to some of these people. 
 Still, I must say, John Bull is a good fellow at bot- 
 tom, and I trust the day will never come when we 
 shall be at daggers-points with him ; although I go 
 in for our Government holding on to the San Juan Is- 
 land, even to the bitter end, daggers or no daggers. 
 
 But, as I said above, I am no grumbler, but one 
 of the bcst-natured individuals in the world — a model 
 of patience, a paragon of submissiveness ; in fact, a 
 second ]Mrs. Caudle, who, you know, declared on 
 divers occasions that she was " the patientest thing 
 alive." If it were not so, I should have been in a 
 perfect stew for the last five days. To have under- 
 gone what I have in that time would have made 
 Socrates (who was reputed to be a man of great 
 patience) tear his hair and gnash his teeth in very 
 wrath, and Job would possibly have cursed outright, 
 while Samson would have overturned mountains in 
 his anger. Yet I did none of these wicked things. 
 I will give you an outline of the grievances that be- 
 set me by the way from Venice to this city. 
 
 It was a dull cloud}' morning that John and my- 
 self took our departure from the beautiful " city of 
 the sea." Upon arriving at the railway-station, our 
 carpet-bags were taken charge of by an Austrian 
 custom-house ofiicer, who, upon our noncompliance 
 with the general custom of slipping a few francs 
 
102 hal's travels. 
 
 into his hand as a bribe, proceeded to search them 
 most thoroughly, tearing our clothes out, unrolling 
 them, peeping into every hole and corner, leaving 
 them scattered in the most promiscuous manner. 
 In the search he found in each of our carpet-bags a 
 small roll of Turkish tobacco. Upon this discovery 
 his eyes glistened with fiendish delight, and grin- 
 ning horribly a ghastly smile, he passed it over to a 
 second official, who responded to his chuckle. After 
 weighing the tobacco, and making a great many 
 figures in a business-like way, we were informed 
 that we could take our choice, either to go back to 
 the city under an escort of soldiers, or pay three 
 dollars and fifty cents and go on our way. We 
 chose the latter, shook the dust from our feet, and 
 departed. John bullied them out of a dollar which 
 they wanted him to pay on a cigar-case. This was 
 only our first trouble. Tw^o hours after leaving Ven- 
 ice we arrived at Padua, where we designed taking 
 diligence for this city. The hotel-keeper informed 
 us that the seats in the diligence were all engaged, 
 and that we would have to remain there twenty-four 
 hours, or place ourselves in the tender clutches of a 
 vetturino. He (the hotel-keeper) would be gainer, 
 let us adopt what course we would, for he was the 
 proprietor of the carriages as well as the hotel. We 
 were immediately surrounded by a swarm of vettu- 
 rinos, who pretended to be rivals, but really all the 
 servants of the same proprietor. One of them pro- 
 posed to carry us to Ferrara in time for the diligence 
 next day, for eighty francs. Another said he would 
 
hal'r travels. 103 
 
 carry ns for seventy-five francs. A third very gen- 
 erously proposed to carry us through for sixty. 
 Thinking we would get the passage cheap, we pro- 
 fessed to he content to remain in Padua until the 
 next day for the diligence. Finally, one fellow ap- 
 proached us and oftered to take us for the low price 
 of fifty francs. We closed the hargain, thinking it 
 dirt-cheap, and found out too late that it was twenty 
 francs more than we ought to have paid. Left Pa- 
 dua in a sweeping gallop, and in the midst of a 
 beating rain. 
 
 Arrived at Rovego about eight o'clock at night, 
 where our passports were demanded. Handed them 
 over ; and by some sort of hocus-pocus trick they 
 were retained for twenty-eight hours! The oflicer 
 whose duty it was to sign them, was out of place — 
 on a spree, perhaps — and there we had to stay, in a 
 hotel like a dog-kennel, surrounded with beggars 
 and low, greasy Italians. Some people would have 
 got mad under such circumstances. Got our pass- 
 ports at length, and made another start. At Ma- 
 dalena, at the crossing of the river Po, were stopped 
 again, and had to hunt an hour in the rain for 
 another little upstart Austrian officer to sign our 
 passports, and during the whole 'time were sur- 
 rounded and set upon by a horde of long, lank, 
 lean, lazy, lounging, loafing, lame, lying, lousy laz- 
 zaroni, whose sole business is begging. I amused 
 myself by bouncing the small end of my stick off 
 some of their heads, which is evidence that I am 
 one of the best-natured creatures in the world; 
 
104 hal's travels. 
 
 otherwise I slioukl have gone in for breaking necks. 
 John boiled over. Well, in the course of time, we 
 crossed the Po, and reached the city of Ferrara in 
 time to find that we were too late for the diligence, 
 and all the seats even for the next day had been 
 taken. Another struggle with the vetturinos, 
 dozens of whom ofi:ered their services to take us to 
 Bologna. Finally struck a bargain with one, and 
 afjain found out too late that we were swindled 
 worse than before. Got to Bologna and found the 
 diligence again full, and all the seats engaged for 
 two days ahead. Stayed at Bologna twenty-four 
 hours — long enough to see all the sights of the city, 
 and test the quality of the Bologna sausages. Our 
 landlord was a growling, snarling, snappish fellow. 
 John said it was owing to his having eaten so 
 many sausages. The point of the joke " came to 
 me" two days afterwards. 
 
 At Boloacna we hired another vetturino. He was 
 a real nice fellow, and agreed to put us through to 
 Florence in the most genteel style. Showed us his 
 nice carriage, to which he would hitch three s]3lendid 
 horses. "We agreed to pay him a round price for 
 the extra fine style in Avhich we w^ere to travel. At 
 the appointed hour we set off in a gallop, really 
 proud of our splendid three-horse turnout. It was 
 two o'clock in the evening. At seven our postilion 
 halted at a miserable inn, which was full of drunken, 
 brigandish -looking fellows, and the landlord of 
 which had a most villainous face. There we had 
 to sleep till morning, or rather waich ; for it w^ould 
 
iial's travels. 105 
 
 require a very sanguine man to sleep in a house 
 filled with such ferocious-looking creatures as were 
 there, and that too in a gorge of the Apennines, 
 once fiiraous for robbers. The carousal was kept 
 up nearly all night, and we watched with vigilance, 
 but didn't see "nary banditti." When morning 
 came, we found that our fine vetturino had de- 
 camped—taken the back track to Bologna — and 
 had left us to bo forwarded in a miserable one-horse 
 concern, under the care of a new postilion ! We 
 had our choice — either to submit to the outrage, 
 and go on, stay where we were, or walk back to 
 Bologna for the purpose of whipping the proprietor. 
 As travellers never like to turn back, we went 
 ahead. After travelling three or four hours, were 
 again transferred to an old barouche, drawn by two 
 frames of horses, a sight of which would have made 
 a turkey-buzzard smack his lips, and rejoice at the 
 prospect of an early feast. With i:his turnout we 
 finished the long and tedious ascent of the Apen- 
 nines, and descended into the beautiful level country 
 on this side. At Pistoja our postilion dumped us 
 down, some twenty miles from Florence, notwith- 
 standing our distinct contract with the proprietor 
 to put us all the way through to this city. The 
 postilion said that his instructions were to bring us 
 no farther ; and he would not do it. As Pistoja is 
 a railroad station, we frightened the postilion into 
 buying us tickets, when we took rail and landed 
 here safely, in a little more than five days from 
 Venice. 
 
106 hal's travels. 
 
 Now, considering all the troubles and besetments 
 that met us by the way, don't you think we did well 
 to keep our teniper ? What would Job have done, 
 or what would even Mrs. Caudle have done, under 
 the circumstances? But, as I said before, I don't 
 grumble. 
 
 I have not been in Florence long enough to tell 
 you any thing about it. Will do so, perhaps, before 
 long. Can only say that it is a city of great beauty, 
 and is the most beautifully situated of any city I 
 ever saw, being almost surrounded by gently rising 
 mountains, the sides of which are dotted with villas 
 and gardens of much loveliness. The river Arno 
 flows through the midst of the city. I promise 
 myself much pleasure in visiting the many galleries 
 of art here, which are the finest in the world, 
 except, perhaps, those of Rome. Have visited the 
 family of the American Consul, General Mallett, 
 where I was courteously received and entertained. 
 General M. is a high-toned gentleman, and Mrs. M. 
 a most accomplished lady. 
 
 Think I shall visit Rome and Naples some time 
 during the winter, provided there is no war in this 
 country. If there be war, I shall be on the right side. 
 
 As this letter is long enough, I shall desist for the 
 present, with the cry of, " Three cheers for Victor 
 Emanuel and Garibaldi ! Nine cheers for Uncle Sam ! 
 Death to Popery and the double-headed Austrian 
 Eagle ! Liberty to Ital}^ and the world, mental, 
 moral, and political ! So mote it me! 
 
 Yours, etc., Hal. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 107 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 The following was written to Dr. Antony, of 
 Huntsville, Alabama: 
 
 Dear Doctor : — God bless you ! Yes, I repeat it 
 with euerg}', God bless you ! You have made my 
 heart glad. Your letter — the first that I have re- 
 ceived from any source since crossing the Atlantic — 
 reached me to-day, and was as a balm, a soothing 
 cordial to my heart. Your kind and pleasant 
 words were like "apples of gold in pictures of 
 silver," Would that I could write a response in 
 equally elegant and pleasant style ; but as I cannot, 
 being a plain, blunt man, you must accept such a 
 document as I can pen. But 
 
 Mercy on us ! AVhat a noise ! what a hubbub ! 
 what a rumpus ! what a hellabaloo has been kept 
 up hi Florence this whole blessed day, and is still, 
 though eight o'clock at night, going on without the 
 least abatement. Bomb — bomb — bang — bang — 
 ding-dong — rattle, rattle ! Was the like ever heard ! 
 A thousand bells, of all sizes, tones, and descriptions, 
 all ringing at once, and each particular bell, with- 
 
108 hal's travels. 
 
 out tlie least regard to harmony, exerting all its 
 powers to ring louder and more harshly than its 
 neighbor. I am really almost distracted with the 
 noise, and shall make hut a poor out writing to- 
 night. To-day is a great Catholic festival — All- 
 Saints' day — but from my heart I pity all saints who 
 have remained in Florence to witness its celebra- 
 tion ; for surely they will retire with aching heads. 
 " Old Nick" himself (and he is generally allowed to 
 be a brave one) is made of more plucky stuff than 
 ordinary devils are supposed to be made of, if he 
 has stood his ground to-day. Nay ; if he has ears 
 to hear, and wings to fly, I must think he made his 
 escape with the dawn of day. And wise would it 
 have been for every peaceable, quiet, well-disposed 
 person to have followed his example — not that I 
 approve of people following the example of so vil- 
 lainous a vagabond, as a general thing. But any 
 thing to get away from a Catholic festival, where 
 they have as many bells as they have in Florence. 
 If I were not in an ill-humor, I would spend my 
 opinion freely about those tormenting bells, and 
 the people who ring them, but shall refrain from 
 domg so until I am more composed. I might say 
 something harsh, which would no doubt be very 
 lacerating to the feelings of the "holy fathers;" 
 and that would be cruel, you know. Besides, it is 
 not in my nature to wound the feelings of my fel- 
 low-men wantonly, more especially those whose 
 mission it is to remit sins, and whose privilege it is 
 to grant indulgences to those who may desire to 
 
hal's travels. 109 
 
 transgress the holy commandments of God. I^To ; 
 far be it from me to speak harshly or disparagingly 
 of so large and so very respectable a bod}' of men, 
 whose rigid, energetic, and persevering piety is no 
 less vividly marked in their sleek, round faces, than 
 in the sacred robes they wear. I^a}', let me not 
 olFend them ; for I would as soon have a legion of 
 devils after me, as an army of pot-bellied priests. 
 The annals of Italy prove that they are a desperate 
 and bloodthirsty people, notwithstanding their 
 fierce sanctity. Then let them ring their bells, eat 
 their wafers, grant indulgences, remit sins, strut the 
 streets, grind the poor, crush liberty, and fill the 
 land with beggars : I shall not say aught against 
 their peace and quiet. But enough about the 
 Catholics and their bells. I must tell you some- 
 thing about Florence. 
 
 But hark! There comes "a rapping at my 
 chamber-door." '■^Entree." 
 
 My landlady's daughter has just been in to inform 
 me that an American gentleman in an adjoining 
 house has been found dead in his room. If you 
 will excuse me for a little while, I'll go and make 
 inquiries about it. Hope the bells have not caused 
 his sudden death. 
 
 The foregoing was written last night, from which 
 I was called abruptly to the chamber of death. The 
 
 man was dead — very dead. A Mr. B., of P , 
 
 a victim of "cold pisou," caused, as ho left "a billy- 
 
110 hal's travels. 
 
 dux a stating," by circumstances similar to those 
 which caused Sickles to murder Key. Yes, he is 
 gone, and is by this time no doubt safely ferried 
 over the river Styx, and landed where all suicides go. 
 
 Perhaps you think I speak too lightly of so seri- 
 ous a matter — that I ought to call up a few croco- 
 dile tears, and say "poor fellow," and all that sort 
 of stuff. Perhaps I ought, but I cannot. I have a 
 peculiar notion about suicides. They quit the 
 world because they cannot make the world quit 
 them. If they could crush the world, and leave 
 themselves living, they would do it; but as they 
 cannot, they destroy themselves. And besides, 
 they are stimulated to the act by the knowledge 
 that they will be honored with a great funeral pro- 
 cession, and have the sympathies of the world, and 
 that their death and attendant circumstances will be 
 heralded to all parts of the world in the newspapers. 
 If it were law and the custom (and it ought to be) 
 to bur}' all suicides with their faces down, and stakes 
 driven through their bodies, such occurrences would 
 be few and far between. But you may say that a 
 man is deranged when he takes his own life. Very 
 likely ; but would not the reflection upon such a 
 disposition of the body, and the absence of the sym- 
 pathies of the world, bring about a sober second 
 thought, and prevent that methodical derangement ? 
 It seems so to me. 
 
 But I must tell you something about Florence, if 
 I can find a starting-point. Would that I could 
 paint you a picture of this lovely city ! I know you 
 
iial's travels. Ill 
 
 would be clmvmcd with it, for it is the gem, the 
 crowning jewel of all the beautiful things I have 
 seen in Europe. If it be true that "a thing of 
 beauty is a joy for ever," I could impart to you a 
 lasting joy. But I despair. I feel powerless as an 
 infant. I cannot impart to you even an outline. I 
 have groped about amid magnificence and in beauty 
 until I am sick. You may laugh at me, but it is 
 true ! I am sick with seeing. When I wander 
 through the galleries, the palaces, the churches and 
 the gardens, I become faint, and my head throbs 
 with pain, caused by the continued and labored 
 effort of the mind to comprehend the grandeur of 
 the objects presented. I am robbed of more than 
 half the pleasure by the exceeding beauty and great- 
 ness of what 1 see. This is no idle assertion, but a 
 truth. I know not if it be so with others. 
 
 But you perhaps expect me to tell you something 
 about the city. And as the galleries of paintings 
 are the first places visited by most travellers, and as 
 it is their custom, almost universally — especially 
 those who write — to tell of what "they there see, 
 (and they are generally severe critics,) you may pos- 
 sibly expect a similar tirade from me. You shall 
 not, however, be so bored. I shall not attempt to 
 criticise a single painting. You may wonder that 
 I should so far depart from the general custom — 
 and, indeed, it is to be wondered at — especially 
 when you reflect that I can find so many wise and 
 learned criticisms already prepared to my hands, 
 and nothing to do but to adopt and copy them. 
 
112 iial's travels. 
 
 Guide-books arc of great advantage to critics, and 
 to descriptive writers generally. But unfortunately 
 for me, I made the sad discovery, when in Paris, 
 that I was no judge of pictures. I made the dis- 
 covery thus : It was in the Luxembourg Palace, 
 which is filled with the paintings of living artists. 
 I was standing before a picture with some friends, 
 and was pointing out to said friends the peculiar 
 beauties and excellence of said picture. I had 
 selected it as the finest work of art in the room, and 
 was well-nigh going into ecstasies over it, when I 
 heard a voice behind me utter that senseless but 
 very significant word, "Bosh!" Looking round, 
 who should be there but a gentleman in whose taste 
 and judgment I had the most unbounded confi- 
 dence. Irony and sarcasm were depicted in the 
 contemptuous smiles that sat upon his face. He 
 then went into a critical analysis of the before-men- 
 tioned painting, making it as clear as mud to all 
 present that it was one of the most contemptible 
 daubs ever suftered to occupy a public position — a 
 disgrace to the gallery. I wilted, and never since 
 that day have I attempted to criticise a picture. 
 
 But this is not telling you about Florence. Just 
 imagine yourself with me, and we will take a stroll 
 over the city, the day being one of the most lovely 
 of the season. Our walk must be a hurried one — 
 just taking time to glance at the things along the 
 way. First we will go to the great Cathedral of St. 
 Maria del Fiore, one of the greatest lions of the 
 city. Does it not loom up grandly ? It is built, or 
 
hal's travels. 113 
 
 rather encased, in polished inarhlc of various colors, 
 and is one of the largest in Italy, being four hun- 
 dred and twenty-six feet long, and three hundred 
 and fifty-three feet wide ; and that dome you see 
 perched up so high is one hundred and forty feet 
 from one angle to the other, said to be the largest 
 dome in the world, except the Pantheon at Rome. 
 By going up to the top of that, you have an excellent 
 view of Florence and the country around. Let us 
 go inside. Here, stop at the door, and look away 
 yonder at the high altar. It is nearly two hundred 
 yards off. Those priests you see officiating there 
 look no larger than grasshoppers. But is not the 
 view a grand one — one vast hall nearly two hundred 
 yards long, and high in proportion ? 'Now let us 
 enter and look at the thousand and one contrivances 
 by which Popery gulls the people. The floor you 
 see is of marble of various colors, worked into many 
 kinds of figures ; the walls ditto. The altars are 
 gorgeous, and the stained-glass windows are very 
 pretty. But for fear you may hurt your neck look- 
 ing up at the frescoes in the great dome, we will re- 
 tire, and come again when we have more time. As 
 we are a little hurried, we will pass by all the other 
 churches to-day, although there are a hundred worth 
 visiting, representing every style of architecture, 
 and frescoes innumerable. 
 
 "We will now go to the Pitti palace, if you please. 
 On our way thither we pass by several other palaces, 
 the most imposing of which is that of Ufizzi, which 
 looms up massive and gloomy just on the corner of 
 
114 iial's travels. 
 
 the Square Gran Diica. "We Avill not enter now, for 
 we would not have time to examine the hundreds 
 of .celebrated paintings which it contains. Just by 
 it is the Royal Gallery, the most valuable treasure 
 Florence possesses. Here we might spend a day, 
 and then retire with the determination to come again 
 and again. "We will pass this by also, for were you 
 to go in, you would soon be lost in admiration of the 
 famous Venus de Medicis, and other great works of 
 art, and would forget the Pitti palace. Now we will 
 cross the Arno over this magnificent stone-bridge, 
 and in one minute's walk will be at the Palazzo 
 Pitti. Here it is. Is it not enough to make man 
 feel insignificant to look up at those massive walls ? 
 See those huge stones of which it is built ; rough 
 almost as they came from the quarry, but so large ! 
 some ten and some twenty feet long. Is it not as- 
 tonishing ? Don't your head begin to pain you ? 
 Mine does. But it will be worse before we get 
 through. "We will now pass this sentinel and go in, 
 and as I am anxious to get into the garden in the 
 rear, the famous Boboli Garden, we will hurry rapidly 
 through the various rooms of the palace, where the 
 paintings and statuary you will find rivalling those 
 at the Royal Florentine Gallery. There are four- 
 teen saloons in this palace that deserve our special 
 attention, but they cannot all be seen at one visit, 
 neither will we have time to examine the grandeur 
 of the building itself. First we will enter the 
 Saloon of Venus. Here you are enraptured with the 
 frescoes on the ceiling. There arc Minerva, Venus, 
 
hal's travels. 115 
 
 Hercules, and Cosmo; the Genius of War; Scipio, 
 Antiochus, and his Mistress ; Crispus and Fausta ; 
 Cyrus and Panthea ; Augustus and Cleopatra ; Alex- 
 ander; the Mother and Wife of Darius, etc., etc. 
 Are thej^ not magnificent ? Now we enter the Saloon 
 of Apollo, in which, as in the previous one, we will 
 only glance at the frescoes. Here we see Apollo 
 and Cosmo ; Cnesar stud^dng his books as he walks, 
 that he may lose no time ; Augustus listening to the 
 ^neid ; Alexander and the Emperor Justinian, 
 etc. Next the Saloon of 3Ia.rs, where we find Mars 
 and Cosmo; Castor and Pollux; Captives loaded 
 with chains, supplicating the Goddess of Victory; 
 Peace and Abundance, scattering blessings. Saloon 
 of Jupikr : Jupiter, Cosmo, Olympus, and Hercules; 
 Minerva planting an olive-tree ; Mars mounted on 
 Pegasus ; Vulcan reposing on his anvil ; Diana 
 sleeping ; Apollo and Mercury, etc. Now, do not 
 the magnificence of these paintings make you open 
 your eyes with wonder ? I doubt if you have seen 
 the beautiful furniture of these saloons as you passed 
 through them, so taken up were you with the paint- 
 ings. Surely the furniture deserves notice : those 
 splendid vases, ornamented clocks, tables of Floren- 
 tine Mosaic, etc., etc. But as our time is limited, 
 we will not linger in the palace. AVewill, however, 
 pass through the Gallery Flora, that you may see 
 the celebrated Venus of Cauova, said to rival even 
 the Venus de Medicis. 
 
 Now we pass from the palace into the garden, 
 the first view of which makes us halt and gaze and 
 
116 hal's travels. 
 
 wonder with admiration. The groves, the foun- 
 tains, the lahja'inthine avenues, the cunningly 
 devised arcades of evergreen, the hundreds of 
 statues — wonderful ! wonderful ! After wandering 
 an hour, and thinking surely we have seen it all, 
 new beauties hurst upon us that we knew not of. 
 "Were we to tell our friends of but the half we see 
 here, they would give us no credit for veracity. 
 Come let us mount up to the highest point, (for you 
 observe this garden is on a hill,) and take a look 
 down at the city. Is it not lovely as a bride adorned 
 for her husband? And then the villas that dot the 
 hills and vales in all the country around — could 
 man conceive anything more enchauting? Look 
 out there to the East; there is Fiesole, where 
 ancient Florence stood upon the hill. In the midst 
 of it 5'ou see an old tower. That is the tower of 
 Galileo, from which that great philosopher watched 
 the heavens. 
 
 Now, contemplating all the beauties you see before 
 and around you, you say, Surely these Florentines are 
 a great people. But you must remember that all 
 these things have been thousands of years accumu- 
 lating. It is a very ancient city. The Etruscans 
 were here indulging in all the luxuries of life, while 
 the Greeks were still barbarians, and Rome had yet 
 no name. And even then they cultivated sculp- 
 ture, painting, architecture, and all the arts, with a 
 passion. Ko wonder, then, that Florence should 
 now be the centre of art. 
 
 But let us quit the Boboli Garden now, and take 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 117 
 
 a stroll to the Casine, that great resort into which 
 Florence empties itself almost every evening. And 
 as we have to pass by my restaurant, we will step 
 in and take a lunch. It is rather an extensive 
 establishment, and you can have any thing you call 
 for ; but, as 3'ou are my guest, you must submit to 
 the fare that I submit to every day. First, we take 
 soup — any kind you like. Xow a dish of meat and 
 vegetables — any kind you are disposed to order — 
 and a small bottle of wine. "We end now with a 
 small dessert of fruit, either grapes, figs, pears, or 
 apples. Being through, now, we pay three pauls 
 (about thirty-three cents) each, and retire. This is 
 ni}' dinner, generally. Breakfast costs one paul, 
 (eleven cents,) and supper the same. So you see 
 living is not dear here. 
 
 But we will go on to the Casine — an extensive 
 park, or grove, or forest, adjoining the city. You 
 may imagine that it now is Sunday morning, four 
 o'clock ; for Sunday is the day, and four o'clock the 
 hour, when we will see most people. We will take 
 our course down the quay along the banks of the 
 Arno, which you see flows through the midst of the 
 city. It is a long walk ; but then we will be in 
 such a crowd, and the way is so beautiful, that the 
 distance will be forgotten. Little more than half a 
 mile will put us beyond the city walls, when we will 
 enter immediately into the country. But, mercy 
 on us ! what a crowd ! what a rush ! Everybody is 
 out, and all dressed up in their best, and all, too, 
 looking pleased with themselves and all the world. 
 
118 hal's travels. 
 
 And then look at the scores and scores of brilliant 
 and gorgeous equipages ! Did you ever see so 
 many and such a variety of turnouts ? Look, there 
 is a four-horse coach — four beautiful cream horses. 
 Don't they prance ! And, as I live, here comes an 
 eight-horse establishment! and a six-horse, just be- 
 hind it ! A}'^ ; don't the liveried servants flash and 
 shine ! And then the ladies ! How their eyes 
 sparkle, and how their plumes nod ! "What an 
 astonishing amount of fine store goods we see ! 
 You see at a glance, from the display of fashion, 
 that the season is open in Florence — wide open — 
 and the fashionables are making the best of it. 
 These people are mostly foreigners — only here for 
 the season. Thousands of English, French, Ger- 
 mans, and Americans come to this city to spend 
 the winter. Here we are, at the city gate ; and 
 now, amid the jam, we enter the Casine. Is it not 
 lovely ? Did you ever see nature and art more hap- 
 pily blended ? Those groves, walks, and drives, are 
 perfectly enchanting. Here we are, in a dense crowd. 
 Just yonder we can dive into the bosom of the forest, 
 and in one minute be beyond the noise of the crowd. 
 But we will keep Avith the company, for they all 
 seem to be making for one place. Here are seats, 
 by the way: we can rest occasionally. We will 
 take the walk on the extreme left, which is on the 
 margin of the Arno. About two miles down we 
 halt, because everybody else does. Here are thou- 
 sands of people and hundreds of carriages. JSTow 
 you know why they all stopped. A band of fifty 
 
iial's travels. 119 
 
 brass instruments strikes up a lively air. "Wbatl^ 
 and on Sunday ! Certainl}^ on Sunday. Now, if we 
 were to tell this to our countrymen, no doubt many 
 of them would roll up their big white eyes to 
 heaven, raise their hands, and thank God that they 
 were not as other men ! ^lusic — brass music — on 
 Sunday ! Horrible ! Well, it may be a very hor- 
 rible thing, but I am fully persuaded that it is not 
 as horrible as many other things. It gives the 
 people recreation and a place to go to. Were there 
 no such place to resort to, about one-third of these 
 people would sleep away the evening ; another third 
 would perhaps spend the time in the drinking- 
 saloons, while the remaining third would wander 
 listlessly about the streets. This is a military band, 
 that plays every day in some part of the city, but 
 only twice a week (Sundays and Thursdays) in the 
 Casino. Don't you think it a good institution, 
 Doctor, and don't you think that every city and 
 town ought to have a band to play, especially on 
 Sunday evenings, even in America? Look on the 
 crowd before us, and give me a candid answer. Did 
 you ever see a more orderly, contented company ? 
 
 But let us retire from the crowd a few moments, 
 to the river bank; for it is the hour of sunset. 
 You have heard and read of Italian sunsets — of 
 their beauty and exceeding gorgeousness. You 
 shall now see that all you have heard is true. 
 Behold the beautiful tints, the rich, golden streaks 
 that dart up the sky, the gorgeous halo upon the 
 peaks of the Apennines! Is it not enchanting? — 
 
120 hal's travels. 
 
 for all the world like a sunset in Alabama ! — ^than 
 which there can be nothing more beautiful, except 
 a sunrise ! 
 
 The music has now ceased, and the people are 
 wending their way back to the city. Let us join 
 them ; but as the walk may seem longer in return- 
 ing, we will take a carriage — there are plenty here 
 waiting to be hired — and join the mass of aristo- 
 cratic equipages. Look ! look ! Do 3^ou see that 
 hard-featured lady in that fine carriage? That is 
 old Aunt Harriet Beecher Stowe, who is now spend- 
 ing her time and her ill-got money in Florence. 
 Don't she cut a swell ! 
 
 Here we are, at my lodgings, 'No. 1187 Lung 
 Arno. "Walk up with me, and we will ring for tea. 
 "Walk in. Don't be surprised. My apartments are 
 finely, I may say gorgeously, furnished ; which is 
 peculiar to Florence. But, fine as all this furni- 
 ture is, I only pay eight dollars a month, service 
 included. 
 
 Ay ; here is Marie, with her tray of tea and toast. 
 Very good; isn't it? It is a good thing to have a 
 good landlady — one who will always send you 
 enough. 
 
 ISTow, tea being over, we will take a smoke, after 
 which, if you feel disposed, we will go out and take 
 a look at the city b}^ moonlight ; for the moon is 
 now near the full. Here are some excellent cigars. 
 Take one. I will, if you will excuse me, fall back 
 upon my old friend, the pipe. 
 
 Go ! no ! Don't think of going yet. It is 
 
iial's travels. 121 
 
 quite enrly. Here — the nig-ht being balmy, we will 
 open this door, and take a seat on the balcon}-, 
 which, you see, overlooks the Arno. And here, 
 while we smoke, I will briefly tell you my plans for 
 the future. For the present I am trying to conquer 
 a language wliieli has thus far proved too hard for 
 me, but which I intend to master, before I am done 
 with it. I have an excellent lady teacher. "Well, 
 after I have done that, I shall visit Rome and Naples ; 
 after which I shall start for Egypt and the Holy 
 Land. There is a company of Americans here 
 now, who start in January. I have promised to go 
 with them. This is my present design, but lazi- 
 ness, and a love of Florence, may prevent my 
 going. 
 
 But, Doctor, with all the beauty of Florence, and 
 all the balminess of the Italian climate, and all the 
 poetical associations of the Arno and the Apennines, 
 I would rather drink from the big spring in Ilunts- 
 ville, and gaze upon Monte Sano, than to enjoy all 
 these things. It would give me more pleasure now 
 to take by the hand an old Alabama or Tennessee 
 friend, than to be perched upon the pinnacle of the 
 tallest pyramid of Egypt. 
 
 But you say you must go, so I will not detain you. 
 Farewell. God bless you. 
 
 Consider me ever yours till further advised. 
 
 Hal. 
 
122 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 "We are at leugth having a taste of winter in 
 Florence. The distant peaks of the Apennines are 
 white with snow, and the tramontane blasts come 
 whirling and dancing and eddying along the streets 
 and around the corners, in the most fantastic, frolic- 
 some, and cutting manner. This being the state of 
 the weather, your correspondent has betaken him- 
 self to his domicile, and is now snugly housed before 
 a sparkling wood tire, (a small one, however, for 
 wood is very dear here,) and is just in the humor to 
 bore you with a most unmercifully dull letter, the 
 which you will find to be a hotch-potch of stuff 
 thrown together at random, and in the which, if 
 you do not find any thing wise, you will find plenty 
 that is o^Aerwise. 
 
 Perhaps you would like to take a look at this 
 lovely city and its surroundings this morning. If 
 so, you may for the time consider yourself with 
 your correspondent, and he will take much pleasure 
 in conducting you to a point from which you can 
 have a view that will certainly charm you. The 
 view we will take this morning will be a general 
 
hal's travels. 123 
 
 one, for it would require a month, if not two 
 months, to see the beauties of the city in detail. 
 We will go up to the ancient hill and city of Fiesole, 
 five miles distant, but which indeed looks to be only 
 as many hundred yards. In fact, so bold and strik- 
 ing is it, that it seems to almost jut up against the 
 city walls. From that eminence you will have a 
 view which I venture to say is not surpassed in the 
 world. But in our journey to Fiesole, we will no- 
 tice a few things along the way. As the wind 
 blows cold, (though the sky is clear, and the sun 
 shines most brilliantly,) we will drop in here at 
 "Cafe Doncy" and take a cup of strong coffee — a 
 very fashionable drink here, and more invigorating 
 than wine or strong drink. This, you observe, is 
 the coffee house of Florence. Here you may see 
 people from almost every nation under the sun, at 
 all hours of the day. Those waiters, you see, ad- 
 dress every man in his own tongue, whether he be 
 English, French, German, Turk, or Spaniard. It 
 is passing strange that men in such humble posi- 
 tions should be able to speak so many languages — 
 when with us a man who can speak two or three 
 languages fluently is considered quite a scholar. 
 
 Now here you see dozens of the Florentine 
 "flower girls," who resort here daily with their 
 baskets of flowers, to furnish strangers with little 
 bouquets. They are very bold, you see, and if you 
 will not buy a bouquet, they thrust it upon you any- 
 how, pay or no pay, and depend upon your gene- 
 rosity at some future time. You have no doubt 
 
124 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 heard of these flower girls before — have read of 
 them often — and have perhaps seen pictures of them. 
 They are very pretty creatures — in pictures ! You 
 are disappointed when j'Ou see them face to face. 
 The average age of them you will set down at not 
 less than thirty-five years. Now here comes one 
 with her great Leghorn hat, the broad brim flaringly 
 thrown back, exposing an enormous expanse of face, 
 about the color of new leather. Another follows 
 in her wake, with pinched features, of a putty color. 
 And there is one whose great fat cheeks forcibly 
 remind you of two prodigious beef-steaks. I know 
 you are amused when you observe the coy glances 
 and assumed modest shyness of these flower girls — 
 or wenches, rather. 
 
 But here is another scene of a difterent kind, and, 
 if I judge you rightly, it will touch you in a tender 
 place. See that little tattered girl with pinched, 
 sharp features, as if age had already come upon her, 
 leading her poor blind father, and modestly holding 
 out her little withered hand, asking alms. Is it not 
 a pitiable sight? "Here, child, here are some sous 
 for you. Go buy the poor old man a loaf of bread, 
 and then lead him to the sunny side of the great 
 palace, where I often see you with him, where he 
 may eat his scanty meal in peace, warmed by the 
 gentle rays of the sun, which shines as benignly 
 upon the poor as upon the rich." And here is a 
 poor old crippled woman. She too must have her 
 breakfast. Two cents will buy her a loaf of bread, 
 and that will appease her gnawing hunger. AVho 
 
iial's travels. 125 
 
 would refuse to give it to her? To give a mite to 
 these poor hungry creatures is a luxury, a balm to 
 the heart of the benevolent. It is better to bleed 
 the pocket than the heart. 
 
 Go, old grandmother, and get your breakfast. As 
 to these sturdy wretches who lounge about the 
 streets and beg, I would rather give them kicks 
 than coppers. 
 
 Now we will proceed towards Fiesole, but will 
 not have time to stop on the way to see the many 
 beautiful sights. "We will stop a moment, however, 
 in the square of the Duomo, and look at the great 
 Cathedral, the Bell tower, and the Baptistry. No 
 man can pass such a place as this without pausing, 
 for the architectural beauty here displayed would 
 charm a Hottentot. Let us approach the Baptistry. 
 It is, you see, a very grand building, of octagonal 
 form, and, like the Cathedral and Campanile, is 
 built of various-colored marble — red, white and 
 black, checked off in chess-board style. We will 
 not enter, but just look at the three enormous doors 
 cast in bronze, the wonder of all who behold them. 
 These doors, or gates, are exquisitely wrought in 
 basso-relievo, representing various Scripture scenes, 
 from the creation on down to the Christian era. 
 The sculpture is as elaborate as beautiful. The 
 great artist Michael Angelo said of them : 
 
 "Tlio gates arc so miraculously -wrougbt, 
 
 That they might serve to be the gates of heaven." 
 
 The interior of this Baptistry, like many of the 
 
126 hal's travels. 
 
 palaces and cliurclies of Florence, is enriched with 
 works of art by the great fathers of Italian painting 
 and sculpture — Cimabue, Giotto Memmi, Michael 
 Angelo, and others. But we cannot see them to- 
 day. 
 
 We will pass out of the city through the gate of 
 St. Gallo, and proceed on our excursion. Those 
 villas and the richly-cultivated and terraced gardens 
 along the way are perfectly charming, are they not ? 
 I know you would like to stop and see all of them, 
 but you must not. Here we are at the beginning of 
 the ascent. See what labor was required to build 
 this road. Like every thing else in Europe, it is 
 built to last for ever — no temporary work in this 
 country. The mountain is steep, but the road is not, 
 so zig-zag and serpentine is its course. It seems 
 but a step from " zig" to " zag," but to follow the 
 road it is hundreds of yards. 
 
 And here we are at the summit, the spot from 
 which many a time and oft the great Galileo gazed 
 out upon the heavens, and viewed the caverns, cra- 
 ters, and volcanoes in the moon ; the place to which 
 Catiline fled from Rome, and fixed his habitation 
 for a season ; where the immortal Dante mused and 
 wrote poetry ; and where stood the favorite villa of 
 Lorenzo the Magnificent. Yes, here we are upon 
 classic ground, overlooking scenery that no poet can 
 describe, nor painter delineate. Turn and cast your 
 eye adown the lovely valley of the Arno. See that 
 beautiful stream gliding between richly-embowered 
 banks, and glistening in the sunlight like a thread 
 
iial's travels. 127 
 
 of silver. Sec the thousands of white villas that 
 peep from out the gorgeous bowers of orange, palm, 
 and olive on either slope that bounds the valle}^ ; 
 and those terraced gardens, flowery walks, stately 
 avenues, and green meadows ! Can they be sur- 
 passed? And sec again, away bej^ond, towering 
 peaks of Apennine, robed in virgin snow, looking 
 benignly down upon the beauties at her feet, like 
 the lioary patriarch smiling upon his children. And 
 there lies the cit}' at our feet, basking in the noon- 
 day sun, as mild and placid as a sleeping infant. 
 
 JNTow turn your raptured gaze away over to the 
 east, toward the lovely Vallambrosa, in whose calm 
 retreats the gods did sport in* former times. Sweet 
 Vallambrosa, whose mja'tle groves and orange 
 bowers drop milk and honey ! where flowers grow, 
 whose lovely tints are painted by the rays of light 
 direct from heaven ; where crystal streams and 
 fountains play, and Naiads lave from morn till eve, 
 and shepherds pipe their silvery notes, and maidens 
 dance the livelong day; where fairies meet, and 
 sport, and dance upon the dew}^ grass where moon- 
 beams play ! lovely valley ! How beautiful thy 
 groves, how green thy charming meadows, how en- 
 chanting thj' nooks and dells, and how sweet and 
 pleasant thy limpid waters ! But yet and yet, there's 
 something wanting. With all the gorgeous loveli- 
 ness and all the charms of Val de I'Arno, methinks 
 one look from Monte Sana's brow, or from the rugged 
 heights of brave old Cumberland, would be to me 
 more lovely still. And one sweet draught from the 
 
128 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 great fount that gushes from beneath the cliff that 
 overhangs the Huntsville spring, would be to me 
 more grateful still than waters of Hiperian springs, 
 of which the poets sing. And — and 
 
 Tut ! tut ! tut ! AVhere in the world am I running 
 to ? I did not bring you up on this mount to spout 
 poetically to you, but to show you the scenery. 
 But, my dear sir, you must excuse me. You see 
 my muse has been running at large for some time, 
 feeding and fattening in the rich ambrosial meadows 
 of Parnassus, and, like a colt just taken oS the grass, 
 it broke off into a canter before I was aware of it. 
 But now we Avill jog along soberly back to the city. 
 And now I suppose after what you have seen to-day 
 you are willing to admit that if Paradise was more 
 beautiful, our first parents did sin grievously when 
 they forfeited their title to it for a momentary grati- 
 fication of the appetite. I think so. 
 
 Next Sunday is to be a gala day here. The newly- 
 elected Governor, Prince Carignanie, is expected to 
 arrive here from Turin, and great preparations are 
 being made to receive him. A grand military dis- 
 play will take place in the Casine, where an im- 
 mense amphitheatre of seats is Iteing erected, and 
 tents or canopies of the most gorgeous description 
 are being put up, in one of which is a great altar, 
 tricked ofli" similar to those in churches. This altar 
 is erected for the Archbishop of Tuscany, who upon 
 that occasion will go through the ceremony of bless- 
 ing the banners and arms of Tuscany, for we do not 
 know what day they will have to go into battle 
 
hal's travels. 129 
 
 against liis Higli-Mightiiicss the Pope. His Holi- 
 ness is mustering his forces lor the purpose of re- 
 covering his last temporal power in those States 
 which have deserted him. I presume he has blessed 
 his arms and banners too, which blessing, if there 
 be any virtue in either, is certainly better than tliat 
 of the Archbishop of Tuscany, as the latter holds 
 or obtained his authority from the former. Guess, 
 though, one is about as good as the other, and 
 equally ridiculous. 
 
 On Monday night there is to be a grand ball given 
 to the Prince and to the members of the House of 
 Delegates who chose him to reign over Tuscany. 
 Tlie people are quite enthused, and nothing is talked 
 of but the coming of Prince Carignanie, who is a 
 nephew of Victor Emanuel, King of Sardinia. It 
 is said that the ball will be a most brilliant aflair, to 
 come off in the palace prepared for the Prince's re- 
 ception. 
 
 Now to what good fortune, or to whom, your 
 humble correspondant is indebted for an invitation 
 to said ball, he knows not. Certain it is, he has got 
 one. Last night, while quietly seated in my room, 
 heels reared up on the mantel, musing and ponder- 
 ing upon time gone by, and joys departed, alas ! never 
 to return, I was roused b}^ a loud rap at my door, 
 when who should enter but a military-looking gen- 
 tleman with a shining star upon his shoulder, and 
 ever so many golden medals dangling about his 
 bosom. Chapeau in hand, he asked if 1 were " Sig- 
 norHal." Upon being answered in the affirmative, 
 5 
 
130 iial's travels. 
 
 lie drew fortli a piece of pasteboard about four by 
 six inches, deposited it iu my baud, and departed 
 before I bad time to ask any questions, or even to 
 find out wbo be was. I knew it was not a chal- 
 lenge, or be would bave waited for an answer ; be- 
 sides, challenges are never printed, except in Cali- 
 fornia. There, I believe, they keep blank challenges 
 on baud ready to be filled up at a moment's notice. 
 After trying for some time to read the document, I 
 gave it up in despair. Summoned m}^ landlady and 
 her daughter, each of whom can speak English a 
 little better than I can speak Italian. By putting 
 our three beads together, we made out that it was an 
 earnest request that "Signor Hal" would make his 
 personal appearance at " Villa del Poggio Imperi- 
 ale," on the evening of the 21st inst., at a "grande 
 Festa di Ballo." 
 
 Upon reading this card I felt considerably lifted 
 up, and my landlady was in ecstasies. She regarded 
 it as an honor to her house, that one of her lodgers 
 should be invited to a ball at the Imperial Palace. 
 She says I must go ; but, between you and me, I am 
 in the condition of poor Flora McFlimsey — I 've got 
 " nothing to wear," Still the old lady earnestly as- 
 sures me that I must go, and that she will see that I 
 am properly rigged out. I shall certainly not buy a 
 suit for the occasion. If I do go, (and I think it 
 likely I shall,) I will write you an account of the 
 proceedings. How I came to get a ticket is a mys- 
 tery to m.e, for I know that I have acted quietly and 
 modestly since my sojourn in Florence. But it is 
 
hal's travels. 131 
 
 hard for a man to hide his candle under a hushcL 
 Genius, like murder, Avill out. 
 
 I guess you think it about time for this document 
 to come to a close — that it is like the old lady's 
 breakfast — "plenty of it, such as it is," but not like 
 her breakfast in another respect, which she said was 
 "good enough, what there was of it." I have kept 
 the promise, however, that I made in the outset. 
 
 You must excuse me for neglecting to conduct 
 you into any of the Art Galleries or Studios to-day. 
 I will try to do so at some future time. We will 
 take a peep into the studios of Powers, Hart, and 
 Gault, the American Sculptors, some of these days, 
 when we can see busts and statues of most of the 
 great names of America — "Washington, Franklin, 
 Jefferson, Clay, Calhoun, Webster, etc., etc! In 
 either of them you would imagine 3-ourself much 
 less than five thousand miles from home. 
 
 Will sail from E^aples for Egypt about the 1st of 
 Januar}^ It is quite an undertaking, for the great 
 desert that is to be crossed is a more formidable 
 obstacle than the Atlantic. You shall hear from 
 me occasionally along the way. 
 
 Think I will spend the Christmas holidays at 
 Rome. Yours, etc., 
 
 Hal. 
 
132 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 This is a cold raw day in Florence. Angry clouds 
 obscure the sun. The winds career and dash along 
 the streets, chilling the blood, and taking unwarrant- 
 able liberties with mantillas and petticoats. Pedes- 
 trians hurry along, closely muffled in shawls, cloaks, 
 and furs; and beggars are active. Your corre- 
 spondent is again hovering over his little fire, and 
 but for the consolations of his old and faithful friend, 
 the pipe, would be enjoying a most luxurious spell 
 of the blues. Thinks seriously of migrating to a 
 milder climate — IsTaples perhaps. Florence is too 
 near the snow-covered mountains for a winter resi- 
 dence. 
 
 I mentioned in my last letter that the Tuscan 
 House of Delegates had elected a Governor to reign 
 over them — Prince Carignanie — and that great pre- 
 parations were making here for his reception. He 
 did not come ; but a message came instead, saying 
 that Emperor Napoleon disapproved of the proceed- 
 ings, and preferred that the Tuscans should do 
 without a ruler until a Congress of Nations should 
 decide whether they should choose their own ruler, 
 
ual's travels. 133 
 
 or the former Austrian Grand Dnkc (expelled by 
 the late revolution) should be thrust back upon 
 them I This message made the proud Florentines 
 bite their lips with rage and disappointment, and 
 many, no doubt, cursed the French Emperor in their 
 hearts, but gratitude for his j)ast friendship kept 
 them from openly denouncing the usurpation. 
 
 But notwithstanding the disappointment, the fes- 
 tivities which were being prepared for the Prince's 
 reception" were carried out. The arms and banners 
 of Tuscany were blessed by the Bishops, and an ad- 
 dress was delivered, in which it was announced that 
 the Tuscans would submit to no ruler, except one 
 of their own choosing ; that the Grand Duke should 
 never again enter Florence, nor should the Pope 
 have temporal dominion over them. This announce- 
 ment was received with universal applause by the 
 immense gathering of people — especially the troops 
 — the National Guard. 
 
 The grand ball did come off at "Villa de Poggio 
 Imperiale," and your correspondent was there ! If 
 my pen did not shrink abashed from the attempt, I 
 would try to picture to you the grandeur and beauty 
 — the glare and glitter — displayed on that occasion. 
 The palace is one of the finest in Italy ; stands upon 
 a beautiful eminence just one mile from the city 
 gate, and is approached by a broad avenue, richly 
 bordered with trees and flowers. On the night of 
 the ball, this avenue was brilliantly illuminated 
 with thousands of lamps, all the way from the city 
 to the palace. The broad front of the palace was 
 
134 hal's travels. 
 
 studded witli various-colored lights, displaying fes- 
 toons, and many rich and beautiful devices. I 
 thought nothing could be more enchanting than 
 the fairy-like scene presented on approaching the 
 palace. But upon entering, I was struck dumb with 
 admiration. It was too much for a plain simple 
 republican, all the way from the wilds of America. 
 'No expense had been spared in fitting up and deco- 
 rating the splendid halls for the occasion. Every 
 thing was as fine as fine could be. And then the 
 magnificent costumes of the nobility were dazzling. 
 Nov were the gentry behind the nobility in brilliancy 
 of dress. In short, among the ladies, there was 
 nothing in dress that was not of the finest. There 
 were many English present, and a few Americans. 
 I think the finest-looking lady there was an Ameri- 
 can — a Miss H , of E". Y. To my taste she was 
 
 decidedly the belle of the festival. Murmurs of ad- 
 miration arose wherever she went. She was dressed 
 with more simplicity than au}^ lady there, but sim- 
 plicity was adornment to her. I am sorry to say 
 that one or two of our American ladies were so muck 
 dressed, that many lips were curled derisively, and 
 many sly nods and winks were indulged, as they 
 swept haughtily through the saloons. 
 
 There were from two to three thousand persons 
 present. The music was enchanting — but nothing 
 seemed more musical or delightful to me than the 
 conversation of the Italian ladies. The language is 
 soft and sweet — every word ending with a vowel — 
 with a stress upon the syllable that gives the word 
 
II A L ' S TRAVELS. 135 
 
 most niiisic. Kothing can be more pleasing to the 
 ear than a conversation between two Italian ladies 
 — refined, elegant Florentine ladies. Their dancing 
 is graceful and beautiful; and although generally 
 -slender and delicate, they never seem to tire. I 
 think there were some who danced the entire night, 
 scarcely missing a set. Princess Strozzi was con- 
 sidered the most elegant dancer, and lookers on 
 were enchanted with her graceful movements, as 
 well as her elegant figure. As she moved through 
 the quadrille, 
 
 "Her feet beneath her petticoat, 
 Like little mice, stole iu and out, 
 As if they feared the light." 
 
 The dance continued until the gray streaks of 
 the morning were visible in the east, when all re- 
 tired to their homes and to their virtuous couches to 
 dream of beauty. 
 
 I think I mentioned to you in my last letter that 
 there was some doubt about my going to the ball — 
 that, like poor Flora McFlimsey, I had " nothing to 
 wear." My landlady, I think I told you, was de- 
 termined I should go ; that she was ambitious to have 
 her house represented there, and therefore under- 
 took the business of seeing that I was properly fitted 
 out for the occasion. Regarding the honor of her 
 establishment as being at stake, she rested not until 
 she borrowed a dress-coat that fitted me to a T, and 
 an embroidered white satin vest. Xext, she rum- 
 maged among drawers until she found an elegantly 
 
136 hal's travels. 
 
 embroidered white cravat, of an antique pattern, 
 which had belonged to her dear, but long since de- 
 parted husband. A hair-dresser was sent to my 
 room with his instruments, (curling-tongs among 
 them,) with instructions to do my head up a la mode. 
 My landlady's daughter, too, sent me ever so many 
 bottles of oils and sweet-smelling essences. The 
 maid was sent back to the kitchen the third time 
 before she gave my boots a sufficient polish to please 
 her mistress. Finally, about thirteen minutes past 
 nine o'clock I was pronounced presentable, and ad- 
 mitted to the parlor, where the boarders were all 
 assembled to see me oif. My appearance was pro- 
 nounced unexceptionable, except that one of the 
 company thought my white kids a little too tight — 
 that they made the hands present rather a " strut- 
 ting" appearance. At half-past nine I set out, and a 
 little after ten was ushered into the great saloon of 
 the "Villa del Poggio Imperiale," where I trust I 
 did no discredit to my honorable landlady, or her 
 excellent house. The "Americana" has been quite 
 a lion in the house since the ball, and is regarded 
 as no small potatoes. 
 
 After all my dreams and fond anticipations, I fear 
 my design to go to Egypt and the Holy Land will 
 be frustrated; and if so, I shall lay the whole blame 
 at the door of that arch politician, Stephen A. 
 Douglas. Yes, if you do not get any letter from 
 your humble servant in those far-off regions, you 
 may blame the "Little Giant." ITow, you may 
 think this strange, that Douglas, five thousand miles 
 
ual's travels. 137 
 
 away, should have any iuliueucc upon my travels. 
 But it is so. Not by any thing he is doing now, 
 but by wliat he did several years ago. If he had 
 not introduced the Kansas Nebraska Bill, the great 
 Republican party would never have had an exist- 
 ence. If the Black Republican party had never 
 come into being, there would never have been any 
 border warfare in Kansas. Had there never been a 
 border war in Kansas, Captain Brown, the notorious 
 " Ossawattomie," would have lived and died un- 
 known. Had he lived and died unknown, the 
 Harper's Ferry rebellion would never have oc- 
 curred, nor would he have been executed as 
 a traitor and an insurrectionist. And if that rebel- 
 lion and execution had never occurred, I should 
 have gone on my way rejoicing to Jerusalem. But, 
 strange to say, all these things may prevent my 
 going. And how? you may ask. I'll tell you. 
 You remember I told you in a former letter that I 
 was going with a part}- of Americans. It happens 
 that this party is composed of live Yankees, the 
 chief of which is one of the "immortal three thou- 
 sand" New England clergy. This divine and my- 
 self have freely and frequently discussed the slavery 
 question. Thought I had him almost converted 
 from the error of his way, until the news of the 
 Harper's Ferry insurrection reached us. Since that 
 we have had two or three stift' quarrels. He argues 
 for Brown, and contends that he was deranged — had 
 gone crazy on account of his troubles in Kansas, and 
 that, instead of being hung, he ought to be confined 
 
138 HALS TRAVELS. 
 
 in an asylum. I contend he ought to be hung a little 
 anyhow — an hour or so — even if he is deranged, 
 that his execution may have a salutary effect upon 
 others who are verging towards the same species of 
 insanity. And upon one or two occasions, when 
 goaded pretty severely, I have insinuated that this 
 same parson would not have for to go to be as crazy 
 as old Brown. He resents the insinuation with dig- 
 nity, but still I have my opinion. I think the par- 
 son has an idea that he will go to old "Aunt Harriet 
 Beecher Stowe" when he dies, and this is another 
 source of rupture between us. So you see it is 
 doubtful about our agreeing well enough to make 
 such a long journey together. If we do not, just 
 lay the blame to Douglas. I must, however, do the 
 parson justice to say that he is a very pleasant and 
 agreeable man in every other respect but upon the 
 slavery question. We meet almost every day in the 
 most friendly manner, but generally part in a huff. 
 The rest of the party are moderate enough. There 
 are four ladies and four gentlemen ; three of them 
 are preachers. 
 
 I must relate to you a little adventure I had the 
 other day at my restaurant, at dinner. Sitting op- 
 posite me at the table was a very prim, nice-looking 
 Englishnian, and, what is unusual for an Englishman, 
 he seemed to be of amost social and lively' disposition. 
 Entering into conversation, I found him sprightly 
 and agreeable, showing by his manners and conver- 
 sation that he had evidently had access to good so- 
 ciety, and was not altogether unacquainted with 
 
ual's travels. 130 
 
 books and newspapers ; boasted that he was a 
 regular reader of the London Post, the Palmerston 
 mouthpiece. I was pleased w^ith my new acquaint- 
 ance, so dilterent was lie from the great bulk of 
 English travellers, who, as a general thing, are 
 afraid to be social, fearing that they will be regarded 
 as common stock, or, at least, something below the 
 aristocracy and gentry. They go upon the principle 
 that "familiarity breeds contempt," and they are 
 perseveriugl}' resolved not to be contemptible. But 
 here I had found one who feared no contempt on this 
 score. Was extremely agreeable, but, like the rest 
 of his tribe, I found him pugnaciously patriotic. 
 "We discussed the San Juan difficulty, and other 
 questions likely to bring about a rupture between our 
 respective countries. He talked fair and reasonable 
 enough for an Englishman, and finally proposed 
 good-naturedly to bet me a bottle of wine — " spark- 
 ling Moselle" — that if there ever should be a war 
 between Uncle Sam and John Bull, the former 
 would come out second best; and, to show that he 
 was in earnest, proposed to buy the wine then and 
 there, with the understanding that if the fight should 
 ever occur, and I should lose, I should pay him two 
 bottles, provided wc should meet again. I agreed 
 to the proposition, and he bought the wine, over 
 which we cracked several jokes, and parted the best 
 of friends. I came to my room and pondered over 
 the matter, and came to the conclusion that I had 
 not done the English justice in concluding that they 
 were such a cold, selfish people. Since that time I 
 
140 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 have tried to find my new friend often, for I felt 
 anxious to perpetuate an acquaintance which pro- 
 mised to be so agreeable. I failed to meet with him. 
 I got a glimpse of him yesterday evening, however, 
 in the Casine, dressed in the gaudy livery of a foot- 
 man, behind his master's carnage ! 
 
 This letter being long enough, and as dry as it is 
 long, I shall close it. Yours, etc., 
 
 Hal. 
 
hal's travels. 141 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 FLORENCE TO ROME. 
 
 After haAing made up my mind to leave 
 Florence a week or two ago, I took occasion to 
 run round and take a last, long, lingering look at 
 many of its beauties, before doing so. I mounted 
 the great dome of its Cathedral, (the largest Cathe- 
 dral dome in the world,) and took a last look at the 
 city and its beautiful environs. "Went again through 
 the magniticent galleries of the Pitti Palace, and 
 through the Boboli Gardens, the splendid galleries 
 of Ufizzi Palace, the Palazzo Yecchio, and also 
 many of the noble churches. Went again to take 
 a farewell look at the statuary of our American 
 artists, Messrs. Powers, Gault, and Hart, and then 
 with an effort tore myself away from " Florence the 
 Fair." 
 
 We started on Thursda}- morning last — many 
 Americans of us together — about twenty-tive. The 
 morning was most lovely, clear, bright, and frosty ; 
 the air perfectly calm. The sun rose just as the 
 train glided out of the depot, and took its way down 
 the pretty valley of the Arno for Leghorn. The 
 tops of the mountains around us were white with 
 
142 hal's travels. 
 
 snow, and looked most beautiful in the morning 
 sun. Three hours brought us to the ancient city of 
 Pisa, which is indeed no mean city. Here we 
 stopped a few hours, to see the fine Cathedral, the 
 Leaning Tower, and the Campo Santo, and to make 
 the acquaintance of one hundred and seventeen 
 beggars, more or less. Took the cars at two o'clock, 
 and in an hour more were landed at the Leghorn 
 depot. Ran a narrow risk of being torn into several 
 pieces by a horde of hack-drivers, each of whom 
 seemed to take a fancy to me, and desired to take 
 me to the wharf. Finally got to the wharf with 
 whole bones, and, after fighting my way through 
 another army of beggars, enjoying a bit of a " fist- 
 icuff " with a hack-driver, quarrelling with a police- 
 man, and bloodying the nose of a gondolier, got 
 safe upon the deck of a miserable little steamer 
 called the "Pompeii." Got aboard just in time to 
 prevent a "fist and skull" frolic between an Amer- 
 ican friend of mine and the boatman who had rowed 
 him from the wdiarf to the steamer. The quarrel 
 between them was amusing. The American was 
 doing his level best to curse the boatman in Italian, 
 and the boatman was cursing my friend in most 
 villainous English. These rascally hackmen, boat- 
 men, and porters almost invariably ask double j)rice 
 for what they do, unless you make a distinct bargain 
 with them before they perform the service. 
 
 The little steamer was packed full of passengers, 
 and, strange to say, there were more Americans 
 than any others. A strolling band of female musi- 
 
iial's travels. 143 
 
 clans came on board and treated ns to some very 
 g-ood music, before we set sail ; and what was pecu- 
 liarly cheering to me, they performed " Old Folks 
 at Home," "Old Kentucky Home," and "Yankee 
 Doodle." This brought forth loud applause from 
 the American passengers, and lightened all of our 
 pockets to the amount of many sous. 
 
 At four o'clock the steaming apparatus was put 
 to work, and with its coughing, wheezing, spitting, 
 and snorting, we glided out of the harbor of Leg- 
 horn, and took our course towards Civita Vecchia, 
 the port nearest Eome. The 'evening was delight- 
 ful, the sk}' perfectly clear, and scarce a breath of 
 wind. The deep blue Mediterranean was almost as 
 calm and quiet as the limpid waters of our own 
 beautiful Tennessee. The sun went down into the 
 bosom of the sea, leaving the sk}' so beautifully 
 • tinged that Claude Lorraine would have jumped up 
 and cracked his heels together with pure delight, 
 could he but have been on earth to witness it. 
 
 A little after sundown the bell sounded for dinner, 
 when a terrific rush was made for the cabin, in 
 which scuffle the lady passengers were promiscuously 
 squeezed, and much crinoline was said to be worsted. 
 As 5'ou may be somewhat curious to know what 
 good things could induce such a rush, I will append 
 a bill of faro. First course : five spoonsful of hot 
 water, with thirteen specks of grease floating on 
 top, and twenty-three grains of rice at the bottom. 
 This, through courtesy, was called soup. Second 
 course : a boiled L'ish potato, about as big as a 
 
144 hal's travels. 
 
 lump of chalk. Third course : a chicken, cut into 
 forty-two pieces, and some salad, which I thought 
 had a very fishy smell. My right-hand neighbor 
 said he thought it was seasoned with cod-liver oil. 
 Fourth course : a very small dab of spinach. 
 Dessert : one pear and two almonds apiece. 
 
 After dinner went out to gaze at the moon. It 
 was nearly full, (much nearer than we were, although 
 just from the dinner-table;) and so beautifully did 
 it shine upon the dancing water, that the scene was 
 enchanting. Many songs were sung ; many stories 
 were told ; and I am' not sure but a little courting 
 was done that night on the deck of that little 
 steamer. 
 
 At the proper hour I went down into the cabin, 
 to go to bed, but found all the berths taken. The 
 captain politely informed me that I would have to 
 lie upon the table. I objected to that, emphati- 
 cally, not wishing to be disposed of in such a sum- 
 mary manner. The captain assured me that if I 
 would sufi^er myself to be "laid upon the table," it 
 should not be considered a final disposition, but 
 that I should be " called up" at the proper time, 
 lie however acknowledged the reasonableness of 
 my objection, and kindly gave me ni}^ choice, to 
 either be laid upon the table or " floored." I chose 
 the latter, and with man}'- others spread myself 
 upon the floor, and enjoyed a comfortable night's 
 rest. 
 
 I arose the next morning with the sun, went on 
 deck, and got.aviewof that delectable town known 
 
hal's travels. 145 
 
 as Civita Veccbia. It is a frightful place ; and even 
 now the thought of having to go through it again, 
 territies me. If my ink were black enough, I 
 would write you a description of Civita Veccbia 
 and its people, together with my opinion of the 
 Eoman la\\'s which govern it. But with ordinary 
 ink I could not do it justice, and will therefore let 
 it pass. Our boat anchored in the harbor at eight 
 o'clock. Our passports were sent on shore, and, 
 after waiting two hours, permission was given us 
 by the police to land. The business of landing was 
 tedious, as only two small boats were employed. 
 Finally we all got ashore, and, as usual, were set 
 upon by the beggars. Our baggage was thrown 
 pell-mell into carts, and trotted olf to the custom- 
 house, and we required to follow. The ceremony 
 of examining baggage occupied just five hours ; and 
 everybody who touched it had to be paid. After 
 hunting another hour, and walking two miles, w^e 
 at length found the head of the police department, 
 and got our passports, paying, of course, for the 
 vise of the chief After this, we were suffered to 
 go to a hotel and get our breakfast, now late in the 
 afternoon. About seventy-five porters demanded 
 pay for taking care of the baggage wiiile we ate. 
 
 Yet Civita Veccbia, with all its faults, is not 
 without its attractions. After breakfast, leave was 
 kindly given all of us who had any curiosity, to 
 enter the Church of the " Immaculate Conception," 
 and take a look at the celebrated vnnldvrj picture, of 
 whicli you have no doubt heard. It is a picture of 
 
146 hal's travels. 
 
 the Holy Virgin which adorns the altar ; and a very 
 pretty painting it is. The officiating priest informed 
 us with prodigious gravity, that in 1854 this picture 
 commenced winking its eyes, and continued to do 
 so for three months continuously; that it had 
 winked four times within the last month ; that it 
 had been eighteen days since it winked the last 
 time. A statement of this miracle is inscribed in 
 the stone wall of the church, in the form of a bull 
 of Pope Pius IX., ordering the name of the church 
 to be changed on account of it, from Santa Maria 
 to that of the Immaculate Conception — signed, 
 "Pius IX.!" Xow, if I had not seen the picture 
 and the inscription, and had not the priest, in his 
 holy robes, informed me of the fact, I doubt much 
 if I could ever have believed full}' in the miracle. 
 
 After leaving the church of the Immaculate Con- 
 ception, with its wonderful picture, we started for 
 the depot, all taking carriages, of course, as the dri- 
 vers generously offered to carry us for the small sum 
 of half a paul each. This was cheap enough, but 
 upon reaching the depot we had to pay not only the 
 half paul for our own ride, but a paul for each par- 
 ticular article of baggage, however small, besides 
 paying parties for carrying the trunks from the car- 
 riages into the depot. Finally, near five o'clock, 
 the whistle sounded, and we gladly bade farewell to 
 Civita Vecchia, and bounded off" towards Rome. 
 My opinion is, that the man who can get through 
 that seaport, and keep his temper the while, is a 
 philosopher, deserving more praise than was ever 
 
iial's travels. 147 
 
 awarded to Socrates, or even poor old Job. Even 
 your pliilosopliic correspondent came well-nigh 
 falling into a passion on divers occasions while 
 there. 
 
 \ Two hours' run brought me to the cit}' of the 
 Caesars — once the mistress of the world, and the 
 seat of art, learning, and eloquence. Yes, by seven 
 o'clock we were in Rome, gazing with awe and 
 wonder at the scenes before us, by moonlight. And 
 here we have been many days, walking amid palaces, 
 clambering among ruins, groping among catacombs, 
 and seeing manv things that can be seen nowhere 
 but in Home. I have viewed the city and its classic 
 environs from the heights of Pincian Hill ; from the 
 Palatine and Capitoline Hills ; have stood upon the 
 Tarpeian Rock, and upon the towering dome of St. 
 Peter's ; have walked upon, around, and beneath 
 the great Coliseum, and have stood beneath the 
 oldest and grandest dome upon earth, the Pantheon. 
 All these things and many more have I seen, and 
 still, for the life of me, I cannot realize that I am in 
 Rome. 
 
 Here Catholicism reigns triumphant ; stalks 
 abroad at noonday and in the night-time, arrayed 
 in all its pomp and glory. Here ignorance prevails, 
 and superstition reigns over all. The Bible is pro- 
 hibited, and the people are not allowed to whisper, 
 or even to think that God can be approached in any 
 way except through the priesthood, and by doing 
 penance. Intelligent American people would 
 scarcely believe me were I to tell them but the half 
 
148 hal's travels. 
 
 of what I hear, see, and learn every day about the 
 humbuggery of the Cathohc rulers, and the super- 
 stitions of the Eoman people. ISTothing seems too 
 ridiculous for them to believe. In St. Peter's 
 church there is a bronze statue — a hideous-looking 
 thing — seated upon a pedestal. The image seems 
 to be holding out its right foot, the toe of which all 
 the faithful kiss. I have seen hundreds kiss it, and 
 a cardinal among the number. It is said to have 
 been originally a statue of Jupiter, but it is now 
 called St. Peter. I went to the church of St. John 
 Lateran the other day, and in an adjoining building 
 I saw a staircase up which a company of people 
 were ascending on their knees, kissing devoutly 
 each step as they ascended. I asked the meaning 
 of this, and was told by the priest that the stairs 
 were brought from the Palace of Pilate, in Jeru- 
 salem, and were the same that our Saviour passed 
 over when carried before Pilate. He said that all 
 believers who went up these stairs on their knees, 
 were granted ten years indulgence for every step. 
 A notice upon the wall signed by the Pope (Gregory, 
 as well as I remember) confirmed what the priest 
 said. In this same building are preserved a great 
 many valuable relics : the curbing which sur- 
 rounded the well where Christ talked with the wo- 
 man of Samaria ; a stone table with a hole through 
 it, which we are seriously told was made by a wafer 
 being dropped upon it by a doubting priest, who, 
 while administering the holy sacrament, doubted for 
 a moment that the wafer was really the flesh of tlie 
 
\ II AL'S TRAVELS. 149 
 
 Saviour ! But as I was only in this room for a mo- 
 ment, (it being closing time,) I will wait until I visit 
 it again before I tell yon of the hundreds of relics 
 there to be seen. The staircase mentioned above 
 is the same that Martin Luther, the great reformer, 
 was going up when he was converted from the error 
 of his way, and renounced Catholicism for ever. 
 
 In the church of Ara Coeli is another wonderful 
 thing. It is a wooden figure of a baby, called the 
 infant Saviour, said to have been carved by a Fran- 
 ciscan pilgrim, out of a tree from the Mount of 
 Olives, and painted by St. Luke. To touch this 
 image is said to be wonderfully efficacious in the 
 curing of diseases, and is a sure preventive of ac- 
 cident, both by sea and land. If it does possess this 
 virtue, I am safe, for I have touched it. It is rigged 
 out in the most gorgeous style, wonderfully rich in 
 jewels, which bespangle it from head to foot — pre- 
 sents from the wealthy whom it has relieved in sick- 
 ness. No Roman lady of quality ever goes to the 
 "straw" without having this image present, which 
 is said to insure a safe delivery. The priest whose 
 duty it is to take care of this miraculous baby, told 
 us that there was never a day tiiat it was not carried 
 out to attend the sick. It has a coach of its own to 
 ride in. In the church are a great many paintings, 
 representing the accidents which the touching of 
 this figure will prevent, such as horses running away, 
 coaches overturned, shipwrecks, persons fulling 
 down stairs, fulling scafiblds, assassinations, and 
 
150 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 hundreds of other accidents to which man is liahle. 
 This baby is a great source of revenue to the church, 
 for besides the fees paid for its going out to the sick, 
 all to whom it is exhibited are expected to pay the 
 priest something. All the peasant women in the 
 country have the privilege of bringing their children 
 to touch it once a year gratis, at its festival, the 
 Epiphany. There is a cross in the church, that by 
 kissing, one is allowed seven years' indulgence. 
 Some of the other churches offer still greater induce- 
 ments to worshippers. These are but a thousandth 
 part of the absurdities here practiced and sanctioned 
 by the Pope. 
 
 There is one place here, however, that I visited 
 with feelings of reverence — the house in which St. 
 Paul lived when here. You will remember that he 
 rented a house and lived here two years, and 
 preached the gospel to all who came to him. The 
 floor of the house is now several feet below the sur- 
 face of the ground, but the old walls remain perfect. 
 The door has been walled up for many centuries, 
 and we now reach it by descending a flight of steps 
 leading from the vestibule of the church of Santa 
 Maria in Via Lata. The identity of this house is 
 one of the Roman traditions that I can believe, be- 
 cause it is reasonable to suppose that the Christians 
 who have lived here ever since the days of St. Paul 
 would never have lost sight of the house in which 
 he lived and preached to them. Besides, there are 
 other houses standing here that were built, perhaps, 
 
iial's travels. 151 
 
 long before it was. The Panthcou, for instance, 
 almost perfect, was built many years before Christ 
 was npon earth. 
 
 While standing in that little room, and thinking 
 of the thrilling eloquence of the apostle which its 
 walls had echoed a thousand times — of the humble 
 simplicity of his teachings and manner of his life — 
 and contrasting them with the present pomp of those 
 who here profess to be his followers, I could not 
 but think what wonderful strides the Christian re- 
 ligion had made since his day ! If Popery and the 
 manner of Catholic worship be right, the Apostle 
 Paul must have been a stupid old fogy. I take it 
 that he was a sort of Methodist preacher, and in- 
 structed all who came to him in a plain simple way, 
 ex^Vounding the Scriptures in such a manner that 
 all who desired to do so could understand and be- 
 lieve. Don't think he ever rode in a gilded carriage, 
 or wore a crown with diamonds in it. Nor do I 
 believe that he would have suffered men to kneel to 
 liim and to worship him in the street — he or the 
 Apostle Peter either — without rebuking them. But 
 this onl)'- shows that they Avere behind the times. 
 Their successor, the Pope, dresses in purple and fine 
 linen, wears a golden crown, rides in a gilded car- 
 riage with a numerous body-guard, and expects the 
 people to kneel to him when he passes along the street 
 — and thousands do it. This is the difference be- 
 tween the Pope and his predecessors. His Holiness 
 is evidently aware of the old-fogyism of the Apostle 
 Paul, and hence denies his people the privilege of 
 
152 hal's travels. 
 
 learning any tiling about his precepts. When the 
 apostle left Rome and went over to Ephesus, after 
 having established a good large congregation here, 
 he wrote them a long pastoral letter, full of instruc- 
 tion, and which he no doubt thought would be edi- 
 fying to them. He wrote it in simple language, 
 that they might the more readily understand it. 
 Now this letter the Pope utterly forbids his people 
 to read, although written * directly to them. The 
 book containing this letter is not allowed to remain 
 in the hands of any of them. It is banished from 
 the empire, and no man is allowed to bring it here. 
 (See Paul's Epistle to the Romans.) 
 
 A few days ago I visited the Mamertine Prison, 
 where the Apostles Paul and Peter were confined as 
 prisoners before their execution. It is a dismal dun- 
 geon at the foot of the Capitoline Hill. It is the 
 same in which Jugurtha was starved to death, and 
 where many of the Catiline conspirators were con- 
 fined. In the floor of this prison is a well of clear 
 pure water, w^hich is said to have miraculously sprung 
 up to afford water for Paul to baptize the keepers 
 of the prison who were converted under his influ- 
 ence. I drank water from this well. On the side 
 of the wall by the steps of this dungeon is a print 
 of a man's face in the stone. The keeper informed 
 us that it was made by St. Peter's face being knocked 
 against the wall by one of the jailers. The impres- 
 sion is as distinct as if it had been done with a ham- 
 mer and chisel. It is protected by an iron grating. 
 
 In the church of St. John Lateran we were shown 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 153 
 
 tlie identical tabic on which Christ and his disciples 
 ate the Last Supper. It is preserved in a glass case. 
 
 There are three hundred churches in Rome, and 
 I believe all of them possess a piece of the true 
 cross, and most of them a thorn from the crown of 
 thorns. I am told, but have not seen it, that one of 
 them possesses a bottle of milk from the breast of 
 the Virgin Mary ! This is no joke. I have it from 
 the very best authority. 
 
 Perhaps you Avould like me to tell something 
 about the great St. Peter's church. All that I can 
 say is that it is indescribable. Its interior exceeds 
 any thing I had ever dreamed of Its size does not 
 exceed its beauty. It would take a much greater 
 mind than I possess even to conceive any thing half 
 so magnificent. It is truly the world's wonder. I 
 have heard it said that it cost one hundred and (huii/- 
 scven millions of dollars! And, think of it! all this 
 money raised by the sale of indulgences ! What a 
 stupendous swindle ! 
 
 I have visited the galleries of the Vatican, said to 
 be among the richest in the world ; and while there 
 saw the modus operandi of manufacturing mosaics, 
 but did not hear the Vatican thunder "nary" time. 
 From the best information I can get, the Vatican 
 contains over six thousand rooms ! It is said to 
 cover forty acres ! 
 
 I shall not attempt to tell you in this letter any 
 thing about the ruins or environs of Rome. I have 
 much to see yet, and may write you again before 
 leaving here. Shall remain here until after Christ- 
 
154 hal's travels. 
 
 mas, and then go to E'aples. There are many Amer- 
 icans in Rome, several of whom are going to Egypt 
 and Jerusalem. 
 
 I am glad to inform you that the bells are not 
 rung here half as much as in Florence. 
 
 If this letter is too long, you must blame the ele- 
 ments, not me, for if the rain had not kept me in 
 the house to-day, I should not have written. 
 
 When the weather gets better I am going out to 
 Appii Forum, and the Three Taverns, where the 
 brethren went out to meet the Apostle Paul when 
 he was coming to E-ome. The meeting was very 
 gratifjdng to the apostle, and he " thanked God and 
 took courage." It is about three hours travel from 
 here to the Three Taverns. 
 
 Peace be with you and all my friends. 
 
 Farewell. Hal. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 15^ 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 I HAVE now been in Eorac bard upon tbree weeks, 
 nnd tbe time of my departure draws near. My duds 
 arc packed, and my passport vised for Naples, and 
 to-morrow morning I sball take my course along 
 tbe Appian "Way for that fair city. I sball remain 
 tbere long enougb to see Naples and its neigbbor- 
 ing lions, and tbcn, Ho for tbe Scripture lands of 
 Egypt and Palestine ! I bave a longing desire to 
 look upon tbose bolj^ scenes of wbicb we read in 
 Scripture, before my final departure from tbis " low 
 ground of sorrow." 
 
 My sojourn in Eome bas been exceedingly plea- 
 sant, and I leave it witb regret, for I bave not seen 
 one balf of tbe places and tbiugs of interest bere 
 and bereabouts. To see Rome as it ougbt to bo 
 seen and studied would require montbs. Sigbt- 
 seeing is very mucb like work, and he who follows 
 it well is apt to sleep well of nights. I do. Tbe 
 enjoyment I bave bad bere bas been greatly height- 
 ened by an elderly gentleman who almost invari- 
 ably accompanies me in my excursions. He is au 
 original, and I cultivate him to the best of my 
 ability. Will give yoU' a little sketch of him : He is 
 
156 hal's travels. 
 
 perhaps fifty-five or sixty years of age, but hale and 
 active as a boy ; has a great deal more money than 
 classical information, and knows more about " per 
 cent." than the fine arts ; has recently married him 
 a young wife, and is in Europe on a bridal tour. His 
 wife being young, and very gay, prefers company of 
 her own age and temper to that of her gray-headed 
 lord. She will drive round the city with the dash- 
 ing Captain Sucker, or the witty Major Squirt, while 
 her antiquated worser-half contents himself to foot 
 it with me. He good-naturedly lets her have her 
 own way, and lets her have as much pin-money as 
 she wants, which is no trifle, I assure you. She is 
 having two portraits of herself painted by the best 
 masters of Rome, and her bust in marble, made by 
 the greatest sculptor, besides a great number of ca- 
 meo profiles. She objects to the old gentleman 
 having his portrait painted, saying that none but 
 classical faces should be put upon canvas. He 
 meekly obeys her wishes. Dealers in pearls, dia- 
 monds, and other fancy articles, will be sorry when 
 she leaves Rome. 
 
 Sometimes Mr. Smith (that is my old friend's 
 name) and m}. self wander through long galleries of 
 paintings and statuary, and it is not a little refresh- 
 ing to hear the comments of the old gentleman upon 
 celebrated works of art. The nude appearance of 
 the figures shocks him greatly, and he is not back- 
 ward in expressing his contempt for the vulgar taste 
 of the Romans. Upon viewing a statue of Venus, 
 a work of great celebrity, he- thought the man who 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 157 
 
 made it might bave been much better employed. 
 He was much surprised to see what he termed " de- 
 cent-looking men and women" walking about 
 through the gallery looking at the naked figures 
 together. Said such things would not be allowed 
 where he came from. Upon seeing a bronze figure 
 of Pan, he was indignant. Said that was "run- 
 ning the thing into the ground," to make a statue 
 half man and half beast. We went one day to see 
 the Dying Gladiator, a Grecian work of art "much 
 prized by the Romans. Said he thought most any 
 stone-cutter might hew out as good a thing as that. 
 Upon looking at the celebrated painting of the 
 Transfiguration, by Raphael, said he thought it a 
 " tolerable good photograph, but not better than Zeph 
 Jones could draw." Told me that Zeph Jones had 
 painted the pictures of his two daughters at home, 
 which were " as like as could be." "We went one 
 day to see the ruins of Nero's Palace. He seemed 
 much interested in the exploration, and asked me 
 who Nero was. Told him that Nero, according to 
 tlie best information I could get, was & fiddler who 
 used to play for the Roman Senators to dance. He 
 said Nero must have been a very rich man for a 
 fiddler ! Wlien walking through St. Peter's upon 
 one occasion, the old gentleman seemed to be deeply 
 absorbed — dumfouuded, in fact — and stood gazing 
 up with his mouth and eyes wide open. I asked, 
 "What do you think of this establishment, Mr. 
 Smith ?" After shaking his head, looking wise, 
 and pausing for about two minutes, he replied, " I 
 
158 hal's travels. 
 
 think tlie man wlio got this np must have had con- 
 siderable gumption !" I thought so too. He don't 
 see what " earthly use" the numerous pillars and 
 columns are that stand in various parts of the city, 
 " with outlandish names on them." In answer to 
 my question as to his opinion of the Coliseum, said 
 he thought it a great waste of money to build such 
 a thing. Two or three daj's ago the old gentleman 
 expressed a desire to see the holy staircase up 
 which the faithful Catholics crawl upon their knees. 
 We went to it, and, as usual, found many going up — 
 ragged peasants, and ladies in silks and huge crino- 
 lines, going up side by side, all alike devoutly kiss- 
 ing the steps as they ascended. A mischievous lady 
 of our party bantered my old friend, saying she 
 would go up if he would, whereupon, to my utter 
 astonishment, both started. But, unlike the devout 
 worshippers, they did not pause upon each step to 
 repeat a prayer, but rushed on as rapidly as they 
 could go. In his anxiety to pass some that were 
 ahead of him, the old man unwittingly placed his 
 knee upon the crinoline of a devout Catholic lady 
 just as she was raising her knee to make another 
 step, which caused a tearing or breaking loose some- 
 where about her skirts. She looked daggers at him, 
 whereupon he quailed, and turned to descend on his 
 feet. This the attendant priest forbade, (the stairs 
 are considered too holy to be profaned with the feet,) 
 when he turned again and finished the ascent slowly 
 on his knees. He says it was very hard work. 
 So you see upon the whole I have had a good 
 
hal's travels. 159 
 
 time with Mr. Smith, and I hate to leave Rome, on 
 his account, as much as any thing else. 
 . Among the other lions of Rome, I have seen his 
 Holiness the Pope, on various occasions. The first 
 time I saw him was last Sunday week. I '11 tell 
 you how it came ahout. I had understood the old 
 gentleman was to officiate at High Mass, in the Six- 
 tine Chapel, connected with the Vatican Palace. 
 At the proper hour I went over and stood in the 
 long gallery, to watch the assembling of the cardi- 
 nals, all of whom came in splendid gilded carriages, 
 each with three footmen and a driver. When they 
 had entered, I followed them up the long stairway that 
 leads to the chapel, between files of soldiers, having 
 been first divested of my shawl, by a guard, at the 
 foot of the stairs. On reaching the door at the chapel, 
 I was stopped by two soldiers, and informed that I 
 could not enter without a dress-coat. I thought it 
 hard, but of course had to submit. Going down 
 not in the best humor, I gathered up my shawl to 
 start back to my hotel. The guard, seeing the cause 
 of my discomfiture, proposed to remedy it, and fix 
 me for my appearance before his Holiness, if I 
 would give him a paul, (a dime.) I gave him the 
 paul ; whereupon he proceeded to pin up my skirts 
 so as to give me the appearance of having on a 
 dress-coat. Thus fixed, I again ascended the stairs, 
 and marched boldly in, just in time to hear the 
 opening chant, which was as fine, if not the finest 
 music I ever heard. Just after my entrance, his 
 High-mightiness came in by a side door, accompa- 
 
160 hal's .teavels. 
 
 niecl by officials, four of whom were required to 
 carry his trail. 1 was much pleased with the bland 
 smile that rested upon his face. There seemed to 
 be no lurking devil there. He took his seat, and 
 his attendants busied themselves Avonderfully in 
 arranging his robes. Two cardinals then lifted the 
 hat from the Pope's head ; two others got upon 
 their knees before him, and held up a large book, 
 while another held a lighted candle before the 
 pages for him to read. He read in a clear, loud 
 voice. Then rose to his feet, when all the rest 
 knelt down. He waved his hand, like sowing oats, to 
 indicate that he was scattering blessings upon the 
 kneeling multitude. After that, a velvet cushion, with 
 gold fringe, was brought in by two cardinals, upon 
 which the Pope knelt, being assisted both to get 
 down and to rise, by his attendants. During the 
 service, a file of soldiers stood upon each side of 
 the aisle, from the door nearly back to the high 
 altar, armed with spears and battle-axes. 
 
 The exhibition at St. Peter's, on Sunday, (Christ- 
 mas day,) was splendid. I never before saw any 
 display half so gorgeous. My friend Smith and 
 myself concluded to take a carriage and ride over, 
 (the Madam having engaged to go with Major 
 Squirt.) After starting, we were informed that the 
 hour for the cardinals to proceed to the church had 
 arrived, and that we could not cross the bridge over 
 the Tiber until their carriages had passed. We 
 therefore had to make a circuit of a mile to cross 
 at another bridge. My old friend was wrathy, and 
 
iial's travels. IGl 
 
 boldly insinuated that if lie ever caught one of the 
 d — d stuck-up cardinals in Boston, he'd make him 
 shake for his presumption. 
 
 We arrived at St. Peter's in time to see most of 
 the cardinals arrive into the square before the 
 church. It was a brilliant display. They came iu 
 their holida}^ coaches, which were gilded all over, 
 and looked almost like they were made up of solid 
 gold. A carriage a little less brilliant followed each 
 of the cardinals, with his chaplain. The three 
 servants that stood behind each of these carriages 
 were rigged out in a style that would have made 
 the most gaudily-dressed monkey envious. Regi- 
 ments of French soldiers were on duty in front of 
 the church, and scores of mounted police were gal- 
 loping about in various directions. Upon entering 
 the church, we walked between lines of soldiers 
 extending a hundred yards from the door towards the 
 interior. There were, perhaps, a thousand of them, 
 equipped in a far finer style than I ever saw soldiers 
 before. People poured into the building almost in 
 one solid mass for nearly an hour, and yet it was 
 not filled ! And with all that great crowd there 
 was nothing like confusion. I was fortunate enough 
 to get a good position near the altar, which I kept 
 throughout the proceedings. At half-past ten 
 o'clock cannons were fired from Castle Angclo, 
 and then the Pope made his entree, seated in a 
 chair, upon a platform borne upon the shoulders of 
 twelve cardinals, Avhile eight others supported a 
 golden-fringed canopy over his head. They marched 
 6 
 
162 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 slowly from the door to the high altar, the holy father 
 smiling and scattering blessings upon the people as 
 he went. I was within a few feet of him when he 
 passed, and was leaning against the railing of the 
 altar while he performed the ceremonies of consecrat- 
 ing the bread and wine, etc., etc. So you see I had 
 ample opportunity to scan his countenance. I really 
 fell in love with him. To my liking, Pope Pius has the 
 best face I ever saw. He looks really motherly. But he 
 is clay in the hands of the potter : a good man, per- 
 haps ; but in the hands of villains, of whom Cardinal 
 Antonelli is chief. The performance was similar to 
 the one I had seen the Sunday before, except there 
 was more display. The robes of the Pope and the 
 cardinals were as rich as it is possible to make such 
 things. The entire furniture of the altar was gold, 
 studded with jewels. 
 
 There is certainly no estimating the wealth of 
 the Catholic Church. The man who has rolled in 
 wealth and played with jewels all his life, in our 
 republican country, will be overwhelmed with 
 astonishment upon coming to Eome. At the con- 
 clusion of the Christmas service in St. Peter's, the 
 Pope was carried out as he was brought in, and the 
 multitude dispersed to other churches ; for scenes 
 of interest were kept up throughout the day at 
 different places of worship. 
 
 Ko good Catholic is supposed to have slept any 
 in Rome on Christmas eve night. The bells were 
 ringing throughout the night, and exhibitions of 
 some sort kept up at the principal churches. There 
 
iial's travels. 163 
 
 seems to be a sort of puppet-show rivalry between 
 the churches here, to see which can drriw the great- 
 est congregations. The}" pubHsh programmes, and 
 invite the public to come and see their relics, etc., 
 etc. For instance, the Church of St. Marcellus 
 advertised, on Saturday, that they would get up a 
 grand illumination that night, and regale the public 
 Avitli splendid music. Santa Maria Maggiore gave 
 notice that at three o'clock in the morning they 
 would have an illumination, and would exhibit to 
 the public the identical manger in which the infant 
 Saviour was laid in Bethlehem; also a portrait of 
 the Hoh' Virgin, painted by St. Luke. San Carlo 
 announced a splendid wax-work representation of 
 the Holy Virgin and infant Saviour in the stable 
 with the cattle at Bethlehem. Ara Coela gave 
 notice that the Bambino, the miraculous wooden 
 baby which heals diseases and prevents accidents, 
 would be on exhibition throughout the night. One 
 of the churches — I do not remember which — was 
 to exhibit the identical swaddling-clothes in which 
 the Saviour was wrapped at his birth. At St. John 
 Latcran the heads of the Apostles Paul and Peter 
 were on exhibition. They are still exposed to the 
 public view. jSIany other things were to be done 
 at other churches. 
 
 The San Marcellus being convenient, I concluded 
 to patronize it. Went and stayed till one o'clock, 
 and was horribl}'^ bored. Came home, and went to 
 bed. The Santa Maria Maggiore failing to draw a 
 crowd to witness their exhibition at three o'clock 
 
164 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 in the morning, consented, "by earnest request," 
 to repeat their performance at three o'clock Sunday 
 evening. I went. The building is only second to 
 St. Peter's in gorgeousness, and perhaps third in 
 size. It is very large. I presume there were from one 
 thousand to fifteen hundred tallow candles burning; 
 but the illumination was dim. They had darkened 
 the windows hardly enough to make the illumina- 
 tion visible. I got a look at the manger, which is 
 preserved in a glass case. The portrait of the Holy 
 Virgin, painted by St. Luke, is so dim that I could 
 make nothing of it. This church is highly esti- 
 mated in Rome, on account of the miraculous cir- 
 cumstance that caused it to be erected. It is said 
 that a snow-storm once fell on the spot where it 
 stands, and nowhere else in the city. The patch 
 of snow that fell was just in the shape of a church ; 
 whereupon its erection was commenced imme- 
 diately. There is a painting in the church repre- 
 senting the workmen raking away the snow, to lay 
 the foundation. 
 
 The Bambino at the Ara Ccela Church is on ex- 
 hibition again to-day, and people are allowed to 
 touch it gratis. ^ 
 
 I went to the church and catacombs of the Ca- 
 puchins, the other day, and there saw the bones of 
 perhaps a hundred thousand men — thirty or forty 
 wagon-loads of them. They are stacked in arches, 
 and displayed in a thousand fantastic forms. Some 
 skeletons are dressed in the monkish clothes they 
 wore while living, and look hideous. Others are 
 
ual's travels. 165 
 
 dressed and laid in state, seeming to have been pre- 
 served, by some means, from decay. They have 
 dried, like a piece of beef. The walls are covered 
 with festoons and rosettes, and other figures, made 
 with bones ; and the dismal abode is lighted by 
 lanterns, curiously made by stringing bones toge- 
 ther. "Within this charnel-house there is an altar, 
 at which ever}- one who kneels is granted nine 
 years' indulgence ; that is, the}' will be released 
 from purgatory nine years sooner than they would 
 otherwise be. None of our party -availed themselves 
 of the liberal ofler. 
 
 "We made an excursion out on the Appian Way, 
 the other day, and, among other things of interest, 
 saw the catacombs of St. Sebastian, an extensive 
 subterranean passage where the Christians formerly 
 worshipped, and where their bodies were deposited 
 during the time of their persecution by the Romans. 
 In the church built over the entrance to these cata- 
 combs, we saw, among other relics, one of the 
 arrows with which the martyr St. Sebastian was 
 shot,' and the post to which he was tied. Their 
 most highly-prized relic, however, is a stone in 
 which are imprinted the tracks of our Saviour, 
 made when he met St. Peter running aAvay from 
 Rome. The story is, that when the apostle was im- 
 prisoned in Rome, he broke his prison, and escaped, 
 one night. He by some means got out of the city 
 gate, and started to make his escape along the 
 Appian Way. At the spot where now stands this 
 church, he was met by the Saviour, and told that 
 
166 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 he must return to Rome, and be crucified. He did 
 so ; and when the Lord departed, he left his tracks 
 deeply imprinted in the stone on which he stood. 
 They are about one inch deep. The priest showed 
 us the stone and told us the story with the candor 
 and simplicity of a child. 
 
 If I were to tell you of all the relics I have seen, 
 you would grow tired of reading. It is as strange as 
 it is true, that men who have ideas above the brute, 
 can believe in such absurd things. If I had come 
 to Rome a Catholic, I should leave it something 
 else. The ignorance of the people is certainly the 
 secret of the success of Catholicism, There is a 
 church near my hotel, at the door of which the wind 
 is said to be always blowing. A story is told, that 
 the devil and the wind were once promenading the 
 streets together, when, coming to that church, the 
 devil requested the wind to stop at the door, while 
 he went in to worship. He has never come out, 
 and the wind still waits at the door for him. The 
 ignorant people of the neighborhood cannot be in- 
 duced to go into the church, except when a priest 
 is present. They firmly believe that the devil is in 
 it. Another superstition is, that the ghost of Nero 
 still walks on Pincian Hill at night, and no one 
 will go up there after nightfall. 
 
 A large party of our American friends were pre- 
 sented to the Pope, a few days ago, by Mr. Stock- 
 ton, United States Minister. Friend Smith and 
 myself, with several others, were on a country ex- 
 cursion at the time, and failed to be presented. 
 
iial's tkavels. 167 
 
 Don't know, however, that we lost a great deal by 
 it. Mr. S. thinks we were fortunate. Those who 
 were presented seemed to be much pleased with the 
 manner in which they were received. Some kissed 
 the hand of his Holiness, and some didn't. Ho 
 made a pretty little talk to them. Expressed a 
 great admiration for Americans. Said it was a 
 great country, in one sense of the word, but could 
 never become truly great until the true faith was 
 adopted tlierc. He hoped the day would soon come 
 when such should be the case. 
 
 Now, if Ital}- — especially the Roman States — is a 
 fair specimen of the "true greatness" that follows 
 the adoption of the "true faith," I trust it will for 
 ever be excluded from our beloved country. It is a 
 most horrid thing. You have but little idea of the 
 poverty, misery, and wretchedness of this country. 
 All the wealth is in the hands of the Church, and, 
 while the thousands of priests and other officials live 
 in luxury, the common people are poor and miserable 
 beyond conception. Were it not for the strangers 
 who visit here, from whom tlicy beg a pittance, 
 many would starve. There is nothing here to give 
 the people employment. I am told that throughout 
 the entire Roman dominions there is not a solitary 
 cotton or woollen manufactory, nor any other kind 
 of manufactory worthy of the name. The streets 
 are full of poor ragged wretches, who would work 
 no doubt if they had any thing to do. They are 
 compelled to beg, to keep soul and bod}- together. 
 
168 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 The French soldiers who are stationed here, divide 
 their rations with the miserable creatures. 
 
 And this is the "true greatness" his Holiness in- 
 vites us to ! God forbid that America should ever 
 accept the invitation ! 
 
 Much fear of a revolution is felt here. Com- 
 paratively few strangers are here now, on that ac- 
 count. The people of the middle classes are very 
 restive, and the slightest provocation would cause a 
 rising of the masses. If the French troops were 
 withdrawn, it is said the Vatican would be invaded 
 in less than two hours, and certain reforms de- 
 manded of his Holiness, the refusal of which would 
 cost him his head. With all his pomp and display, 
 the Pope is sitting upon the brink of a volcano — and 
 he knows it. A few days ago, in one of the coffee- 
 houses here, the portrait of the Pope was taken 
 down, and that of Victor Emanuel put up in its stead. 
 One of the Imperial police ordered the picture taken 
 down immediately, whereupon the coffee-house 
 keeper politely requested the policeman to go to the 
 d — 1. For such an act twelve months ago, the per- 
 petrator would have been hurried off to prison and 
 never heard of any more. JSTow, they dare not ar- 
 rest him, for fear of a popular outbreak. 
 
 I suppose this letter is nearly long enough. I 
 have written rather at random, not having time to 
 take pains, because there is so much to be seen. 
 You see I have omitted the usual "rigmarole" of 
 letter-writers, about the ruins, galleries, etc., etc., 
 because what I could write on those subjects would 
 
ual's travels. 169 
 
 be but a rehash of what you have read in books and 
 newspapers from your youth up. I can say to you, 
 however, that I have seen those things and enjoyed 
 them extensively. To-day I stood by Pompey's 
 statue, at the foot of which "Great Cjfisar fell." A 
 red place is on the leg and foot of the statue, which 
 "they say" is the blood of Capsar. That is like 
 other Roman traditions. 
 
 I wrote the foregoing last night. Did not get oft' 
 to Naples this morning. We have understood that 
 the road is infested with banditti, and our little 
 party have determined to go by sea. "Will remain 
 here three days longer, and then take ship at that 
 delightful city of Civita Vecchia. I am happy to 
 inform you that my elderly friend Smith is going 
 with us. I shall try to persuade him to go to Egypt. 
 He says he is afraid if he stays in Rome his wife 
 will break him by having "photographs" of herself 
 painted. 
 
 Upon reaching Naples, the first place I go to shall 
 be Mt. Vesuvius, for, as Pat said of the oyster, I 
 shall "be afther looking into the cratur" after which 
 I will drop you a line. Till then, farewell. 
 
 Hal. 
 
170 hal's travels, 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 I VEBiLY believe that the most sedate donkey in 
 all Italy (donkeys are the gravest of creatures in 
 this country) would lose his gravity and compromise 
 his dignity, in the presence of my good old friend 
 Smith. I had made up my mind to write you a 
 very grave letter to-night, and had actually com- 
 menced one in the most dolorous strain, about the 
 wails and sobs of the dying year — this being about 
 the last hour of the last day of the last week of the 
 last month of the good old year 1859. Yes, I had 
 conjured up some wise sayings for the occasion, and 
 was just on the point of spreading myself on this 
 most fruitful theme for would-be pathetic writers, 
 when lo ! Avho should enter but my venerable friend 
 Smith, looking as much like the ghost of the de- 
 parting year as it is possible for man to look. His 
 jaw was hanging low, and sadness peered from be- 
 neath his shaggy brows. Deep trouble — almost de- 
 spair — sat upon every lineament of his rubicund face. 
 His usual sprightliness was gone, and I fancied that 
 the crows-feet in the corners of his eyes were more 
 deeply marked than I had ever seen them. Know- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 171 
 
 lug Smitli as I have previously known him — alwaj's 
 lively and in the best humor in the world — his 
 seriousness only appeared to me in a comic light, 
 and I could not resist the inclination to laugh right 
 out. He was greatly surprised at my rude merri- 
 ment, and the surprise, added to Lis woe-begone look, 
 redoubled the comicality of the scene, and I laughed 
 the more. Burton would give all he's worth to be 
 able to put on such a face. 
 
 The old gentleman was in trouble, and had come 
 in to unburden himself to me. His handsome young 
 wife was in a pet. He said she was in one of her 
 "tantrums," and had " her back up" furiously ; that 
 she had been for f(3ur hours engaged, with the as- 
 sistance of two maids, in packing her trunks for a 
 start to Naples to-morrow morning, and that they 
 were but little nearer packed now than they were 
 four hours ago ; he had offered to assist her, but 
 she spurned the offer, and had actually called him 
 an "old fool," which he said was very near correct. 
 Upon his attempting to pacif}" her, she peremptorily 
 ordered liim out of the room. All this he told me 
 "with a burst of confidence," but palliated her 
 oifence by saying that she was a "dear good crea- 
 ture" when in a good humor. He thinks that she 
 only lacks a little age and experience, which time 
 will remedy. There was another source of griev- 
 ance. The old gentleman had gone to a barber- 
 shop to have his hair trimmed, late this evening. 
 Not being able to speak Italian, he measured on his 
 finger, and showed the barber how much he wanted 
 
172 hal's travels. 
 
 taken off", (about half an inch.) The barber, not fully 
 comprehending his instructions, instead of cutting 
 olF half an inch, cut it off to within half an inch of 
 the scalp. He took off his hat to show me how the 
 villainous barber had served him, and I laughed 
 immoderately — could n't help it — at the grotesque 
 spectacle. His hair is of an iron-gray color, and 
 very coarse, and each particular hair bristled straight 
 out. Who could help laughing? But the deep sigh 
 of the old man brought me back to my senses, and 
 I sighed with him — especially when I thought of 
 his domestic troubles. 
 
 I spoke of these troubles as little petty annoy- 
 ances to which every man was liable, and then did 
 what I could to lead the mind of Mr. Smith to other 
 things, which was not hard to do. "We talked about 
 what we had seen in Rome, and how we had en- 
 joyed our sojourn and our many pleasant strolls 
 among the ruins, and the great and splendid 
 churches. He soon forgot the "tantrums" of Mrs. 
 S., and actually laughed heartily at some of his own 
 jokes, (he is fond of getting off jokes,) one of 
 which I thought pretty good. We to-day visited 
 the church of the Jesuits, to witness the closing 
 ceremonies of the Christmas holidays. It is a rich 
 church, and I asked him what he thought of it? 
 Said he thought it "the best organized" church we 
 had seen in Eome. It contains five organs. That 
 was the best witticism I ever knew Smith to get off. 
 After getting in a thorough good humor, he pro- 
 ceeded to empty his huge overcoat pocket of twenty 
 
iial's travels. 173 
 
 or thirty pieces of marble and brick upon my table, 
 saying that he wanted to show me some fine speci- 
 mens he had picked up in his rambles, (for, like 
 everybody else, he gathers relics.) I asked him if 
 he knew where they all came from. Said he knew 
 where some of them came from. Took up a beau- 
 tiful piece of porphyry and asked where he got it. 
 Did n't know. Asked him where a pretty piece of 
 marble came from. Said he thought he got that 
 from the tomb of the African we had visited a day 
 or two ago. (He meant the tomb of Scipio Afri- 
 canus.) Asked him where he got the piece of brick. 
 Did not exactly remember the name of the place, 
 but knew very well where it was : that great circular 
 concern that stands just beyond the Forum — (the 
 Coliseum.) As to the rest of his specimens, he 
 knew not where they were from. All he cared for, 
 he said, was to know that he had got them in Rome. 
 I thought there was something even in that. 
 
 After a chat of nearly two hours over our adven- 
 tures in Rome, and our anticipated adventures in 
 ]^aples, speculating upon the weather, and the pros- 
 pect of a smooth sea to sail over to-morrow, my 
 venerable friend gathered up his rocks and departed 
 for his own room, saying, as a shade of melancholy 
 passed over his face, that he hoped the madam had 
 finished packing. Poor Smith ! A kinder-hearted 
 man never trod the earth, but I fear he will never 
 again know any thing of conjugal happiness. He 
 is a good man, and, although he may not know how 
 to keep a hotel, he is worthy of a better wife than 
 
174 iial's travels. 
 
 the young giddy thing to whom he is yoked. May 
 she grow wiser and better ! 
 
 I am again packed for I^aples, and shall be off to- 
 morrow morning by rail for Civita Vecchia, where I 
 shall again embark upon the deep blue sea. Since 
 my last letter I have been employed in walking about 
 the city, revisiting noted localities that I had seen 
 before, and watching the gayety of the Romans, who 
 have seemed to enjoy the Christmas holidays to the 
 fullest extent. The soldiers, the priests, and the po- 
 lice put on clean shirts the first of the week, and 
 have looked much more decent than usual. Even 
 the monks (the privileged loafers of Rome) seemed 
 to have scraped some of the grease and dirt from 
 their filthy roljes and frightful hoods, and have act- 
 ually tried to look respectable ; and the beggars have 
 looked smart and good-humored all the week, and 
 have been more exorbitant in their demands than 
 before. Usually they only ask for " Mezzo biocho," 
 (half a cent,) but this week they have confidently 
 demanded a whole biocho. The principal churches 
 have been all aglow since Sunday last, and most of 
 their relics have been on public exhibition. The 
 wonderful Bambino, the miraculous wooden baby, 
 has been shown every day, gratis, and the peasantry 
 have flocked to see it by thousands. Many have 
 been permitted to touch the sacred thing, and now 
 no doubt feel secure against all accident or misfor- 
 tune. 
 
 I have paid my last visit to the Pantheon, the 
 great structure which has stood whole and perfect 
 
• ual's travels. 175 
 
 tlu'ougliout so many ages. It was built maii}^ years 
 before the birth of our Saviour, and now looks like 
 it might weather a thousand more stormy winters. 
 Its dome is the largest in the world. I have also 
 seen for the last time the great wonder of the world, 
 St. Peter's, the Coliseum, the Roman Forum and 
 its very interesting surroundings, the ruins of the 
 palace of the Csesars, the Caraculla Baths, and the 
 Arches of Septimus Severus and Titus, both of 
 which have stood much longer than the Pantheon. 
 Have again been in the house of the Apostle Paul, 
 and in his prison. To all these things I have bid fare- 
 well, sorry that I cannot remain longer in Rome to 
 see and learn more of its antiquities. 
 
 At half-past two o'clock to-day I went to the 
 church of the Jesuits to hear the grand Te Deum, 
 which closes the holidays. The music was heavenly. 
 The proceedings were pretty much the . same that I 
 saw in St. Peter's on Christmas day, except that the 
 Pope was not brought in on the platform with the 
 canopy over his head, and the peacock-tails beside 
 him. The old man walked in this time. He was 
 brought to the church from his palace in a coach 
 that looked like it might have been made of beaten 
 gold, drawn by four black horses, followed by the 
 coaches of his cardinals, and guarded by a regiment 
 of soldiers. I thought it strange that the great in- 
 fallible vicar of God should have to be thus guarded 
 by the puny arm of man, not only in the street, but 
 in the sanctuary ! But hark ! The clock is now 
 striking twelve. The old year is bringing his last 
 
176 iial's travels. 
 
 gasp. . . . The clock has ceased ! 1859 is no 
 more ! Rolled up as a worn garment, and laid away, 
 to be brought forth no more till the great resurrec- 
 tion, when all things, both new and old, shall ap- 
 pear ! The new year is before us, and it is meet 
 that we enter upon it with clean hands ; and that 
 your correspondent may do his duty in that respect, 
 he will cease scribbling for to-night, and go to bed, 
 with a promise to write from Naples. 
 
 Yours, as ever, Hal. 
 
hal's travels. 17T 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 ROMETONAPLES. 
 
 In company -vvitli many others, I left the "Eternal 
 City" the morning of the first instant. Friend 
 Smith and the Madam were along. She was all 
 smiles, and he was in raptures. He told me in the 
 most confident manner that Jie really thought her 
 "the dearest thing in the world;" that she had 
 actually kissed him, the night previous, to heal his 
 wounded feelings. The kiss melted him ; and on 
 the spot he promised her a splendid set of corals, 
 as soon as they reached Naples. Said she had pro- 
 mised never to call him an " old fool" again. Smith 
 believes her, and is happy. May his happiness 
 continue ! 
 
 Two hours' ride on the rail brought us to that 
 delectable sea-port mentioned in a previous letter — 
 Civita Vecehia. The usual number of beggars and 
 porters set upon us ; but, being strong-handed, we 
 fought them off'. Smith broke his umbrella over 
 the head of a big, greasy, red-capped fellow, and 
 then fell into a cursing fit, which lasted for half an 
 hour. After wandering over the town for an hour, 
 we at length found the proper place — a filthy little 
 
178 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 den — to get onr passports vised; wliich done, we 
 made a vigorous charge, routed the enemy, and got 
 to the wharf, and from there to the fine steamer 
 Capitol, whicli lay in the bay. Steamed out of the 
 bay at four o'clock, and took our course towards 
 Naples. The sky was clear, the air was balmy, and 
 the deep blue Mediterranean as calm and placid as 
 a sleeping infant ; and to add to the pleasure of a 
 night voyage, the "bright silver moon" was again 
 abroad in the heavens. A little after sunrise on the 
 following morning we entered the world-renowned 
 bay of ]!^aples. As everybody who visits Naples 
 has something to say about the beauty of its bay, 
 the city and its environs, you will excuse me for 
 omitting that part of the ceremonj^ ; only I will 
 say that if any one should tell you that the pano- 
 rama presented is not perfectly beautiful, you may 
 take it for granted that that person never saw the 
 sight. A semi-circle of snow-white buildings, ex- 
 tending ten or twelve miles along the margin of a 
 placid bay, backed by an amphitheatre of bold 
 mountains rearing back against the deep blue sky, 
 with the smoky funnel of the terrible old Vesuvius 
 in the midst, could not be any thing else than beau- 
 tiful — could it ? 
 
 Naples is a funny place. As soon as our steamer 
 anchored in the bay, it was surrounded by a fleet 
 of the funniest-looking boats, rowed by the most 
 comical-looking men you ever saw, all wearing red 
 caps, a hat being a luxury they never aspire to. 
 And then such a chattering, and such a jabbering. 
 
hal's travels. 179 
 
 and such pantomimic exertions, oftcring tlieir boats 
 to take passengers asliore ! Tliey were almost as 
 vociferous as a bevy of New York hack-drivers. 
 After remaining on the steamer two hours, the 
 police graciously gave us permission to land ; 
 whereupon we bundled ourselves into the funny 
 boats, and wore rowed by the comical men to the 
 custom-liouse, where the officers, in their funny 
 little short-tail coats, and cunning little silver-laced 
 caps, proceeded to dive most savagely into the bag- 
 gage of ever}' man who failed to slip a couple of pauls 
 into their hands. An}- thing can be smuggled into 
 the port of Naples for two pauls, (twenty-two cents.) 
 And here we are in Naples. AVhat crowds of 
 people, and how filthy they all look ! and such 
 chattering and begging — and such poor, hungry- 
 looking wretches ! Hard, gaunt poverty is here ! 
 And yet, destitute and hungry as they look, 
 they crack jokes and laugh with one another. 
 Many are at work in the open streets, some making 
 shoes, some spinning, some tinkering, and here and 
 there an old woman, seated by a small kettle of 
 coals, broiling fish, which she serves hot from the 
 fire, to all who have the wherewith to pay for them. 
 And merchants in every line are here, hawking 
 their wares — apples, oranges, figs, maccaroni, cakes, 
 pies, bread, nuts, etc., etc. — all yelling at the top of 
 their voices, praising their own merchandise. Babel 
 was a small aft'air, as far as confusion is concerned, 
 compared to ]N'ai)les. And here go the donkeys, 
 (the donkey is one of the institutions of this city, 
 
180 hal's travels. 
 
 and the owner of a donkey is considered a respect- 
 able property-holder,) the least imaginable crea- 
 tures, carrying loads of the most prodigious size. 
 Here goes one with a load of vegetables, enough to 
 load a two-horse wagon, and there goes one under 
 a mound of hay. You see nothing but his ears. 
 Another, with a load of wood. And here comes a 
 little fellow, trotting merrily along, jingling his 
 bells, drawing a two-wheeled carriage with ten 
 burly men and a slouchy woman. As to carrying 
 burdens and drawing loads, the donkey is all in all, 
 here. I say again, i^aples is a funny city. It is a 
 large city — second to none in Europe, except Lon- 
 don and Paris ; well built, with the houses reaching 
 from four to six stories high, and is, withal, as filthy 
 as any four cities I ever saw, leaving out the old 
 part of Rome. I have not yet been able to count 
 the number of odors here ; but I think there must 
 be several hundred "well-defined stinks." But let 
 me not be understood as condemning the whole of 
 Naples. There are decent places. One long, broad 
 street (don't remember its name) is filled with rich 
 and brilliant shops, reminding one of Paris ; and 
 one or two others are passable, while the Kiug's 
 Garden, which stretches along the bay, is one of the 
 most beautiful promenades I ever saw. 
 
 Our first excursion after reaching l^aples, was to 
 the resurrected city of Pompeii, It is much more 
 extensive than I expected to find it. It is perfectly 
 wonderful to see a great city brought again to light, 
 after being buried and its site forgotten for more 
 
hal's travels. 181 
 
 tbau seventeen hundred years. Two-thirds of the 
 city yet remain buried ; but the part discovered 
 shows it to have been a city of much beauty. It 
 must have been very old at the time of its destruc- 
 tion ; for the solid stone-paved streets are deeply 
 worn with carriage-wheels. The remains of gor- 
 geous palaces, two large theatres, and an amphi- 
 theatre capable of seating twenty-live thousand 
 people, besides hundreds of shops and other houses, 
 have been exhumed. The Villa of Diomedes was 
 a very grand building, and in the large wine-cellar 
 beneath it still remain the wine-jars, just as they 
 were left the day the city was engulfed. The 
 house of Caius Sallust is one of the largest that has 
 been discovered. The floor of every house is of 
 the finest mosaic ; finer than any modern mosaics I 
 have seen. Almost every street corner was supplied 
 with a fountain. But it is useless for me to try to 
 tell you about Pompeii in a letter. Its immersion 
 and resurrection are known already to every intelli- 
 gent reader. Before visiting Pompeii, my friend 
 Smith thought it was a humbug, gotten up by the 
 Neapolitans to get money out of travellers. He is 
 now satisfied that it is no humbug. AVe spent a 
 day walking about its solitary streets. 
 
 But little of Ilerculaneum has yet been disco- 
 vered. It lies buried in lava that is harder than 
 limestone, forty feet beneath the surface, and an- 
 other town now stands above it. We saw all of it in 
 an hour. Tlie theatre is the most important building 
 discovered. It is of immense size. Ilerculaneum 
 
182 iial's travels. 
 
 will for ever remain a hidden mystery ; for it cannot 
 be exhumed without destro^nng the city that stands 
 above it; and that wouldn't pay. 
 
 We spent one day in the Museum where the 
 things found at Pompeii and Hcrculaneum are kept. 
 There is much fine statuary, both in marble and 
 bronze ; also household utensils of every descrip- 
 tion. It is intensely interesting to look upon these 
 relics, which are nearly two thousand years old. 
 Loaves of bread, baked so long ago, are exhibited, 
 with the name of the baker stamped upon them. 
 
 Yesterday seems to have been the day pitched 
 upon by nearly every American in Naples (twenty- 
 nine in number) to visit Mount Vesuvius. All, 
 with one accord, met at Racina, the town which 
 stands above the submerged Ilerculaneum. That 
 is the place from which the ascension begins. Our 
 debut into the village was hailed with a shout of 
 gladness by the proprietors of donkeys, and all 
 their friends. It was a holiday, and the people 
 were all idle ; therefore the crowd which surrounded 
 us was immense. Every man, or at least every 
 man's friend, had a donkey to hire ; and each man 
 did his level best to talk louder than his neighbor 
 in praise of his own or his friend's donkey. They 
 quarrelled and cursed each other, and crowded 
 about us in such a manner that we seemed in immi- 
 nent danger of being trodden under foot. Finally, 
 after an immense amount of hard swearing and 
 scuffling among the donkey men, twenty-nine of 
 the diminutive creatures were saddled and mounted 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 183 
 
 by twenty-nine Americans — nearly an equal num- 
 ber of ladies and gentlemen. Every donkey must 
 needs have a driver, and here a battle ensued 
 among the boys as to who should go as drivers. 
 The stoutest soon fanned out the less •muscular, 
 and the conquerors took their places beside the 
 donkej's. At the word of our guide, we started off, 
 single file, in a brisk trot. The ladies not being 
 used to such a mode of locomotion, were fright- 
 ened ; and some of them set up a succession of 
 those interesting little screams peculiar to such of 
 the "dimity institution" as scream at the sight of a 
 lizard or a toad. The donkeys, in response, set up 
 a braying, and this, added to the cries and shouts 
 of the men, women, and children that lined the 
 way on either side, created a noise and confusion 
 hardly surpassed by a mob at a New York muni- 
 cipal election. Friend Smith says he never saw or 
 heard the like before ; and Smith is an old man. 
 
 A ride of an hour and a half brought us to the 
 foot of the cone, the place where the donkeys must 
 be left, and from which those who would look into 
 the crater must exercise their powers of climbing. 
 It is a serious undertaking, and those who have not 
 good muscles and stout boots had better not under- 
 take it. Of the twenty-nine who started up, only 
 nine reached the summit. Your correspondent was 
 one of the nine. The twenty contented themselves 
 with going to the lower crater, a new one that has 
 not been long in existence. The lava is pouring 
 out of it in a fine large stream. I lighted my pipe, 
 
184 iial's travels. 
 
 and smoked beside the great stream of liquid fire. 
 Getting to tlie summit was about as hard an hour's 
 work as I ever did. Two ladies of the party suc- 
 ceeded in getting up. "What we saw of the crater 
 was — nothing ! We walked along the brink of what 
 seemed a great "jumping-off place," but the smoke 
 was so dense we could not see twenty feet down. 
 The fumes of sulphur were so strong that we could 
 not remain near the brink of the opening more than 
 half a minute at a time. 
 
 The funniest part of the business was coming down 
 the mountain, running, jumping, rolling, tumbling, 
 and sliding down the steep cone in the ashes. I en- 
 joyed the fun so much that I was really sorr^^ when 
 the base was reached. 
 
 "Without being tedious, I will merely say that we 
 returned to our donkeys, and wended our way back 
 to Eacina, finishing the descent by moonlight. Got 
 back to our hotel in ITaples about 8 o'clock, having 
 been occupied eleven hours in the excursion. 
 
 But does it pay ? Much as a bargain. It don't 
 more than pay, although it may be about a fair trade. 
 You are jperhajps compensated for the labor of going 
 up, by the fun of coming down. Certain, you do 
 not see enough to make it a paying business. The 
 most interesting part of the day's excursion to me 
 was the row among the donkey men and boys at 
 Racina, and the start from that place. It was rich. 
 
 Smith says he never until now believed the story 
 about burning mountains. He 's satisfied. 
 
 On Tuesday next I leave this funny city of Naples 
 
iial's travels. 185 
 
 for Egypt and Palestine. There will be fourteen in 
 the party — all Americans. AVe sail first to Malta, 
 then to Alexandria, and thence to Grand Cairo. 
 Expect to go up the Nile, and see much of the 
 country once ruled by the Pharaohs. Shall look 
 with deep interest upon the places once inhabited 
 b}^ the Israelites, while in bondage under the tyran- 
 nical Egyptians. Will go to the place where they 
 crossed the Ked Sea when led out by God under the 
 direction of Moses, and where Pharaoh and his host 
 were drowned. After that we shall go to Jerusalem 
 and many other parts of the Holy Land, about which 
 I will write you after I have seen them. 
 
 I am sorry to leave Naples so soon. There are 
 many pleasant excursions in the neighborhood I 
 would like to make. Besides, it is a pleasant place 
 to stop. Living is fine ; plenty of macaroni, and 
 an abundance of goats' and asses' milk. The milk- 
 merchants here, instead of carrying their milk round 
 in tin vessels, as in some other cities, go to the 
 houses of their customers with a flock of goats 
 bleating at their heels, and milk them in the houses 
 of those who bu3\ This insures to the purchaser 
 pure, unadulterated milk. This is sensible. 
 
 Hal. 
 
 P. S. — Glorious news ! Madam Smith has made 
 up her mind to go to Egypt, and so I shall not be 
 so suddenly deprived of the company of my good 
 friend Smith. He does not want to go ; but that is 
 nothing. The madam has made up her mind ! He 
 
186 iial's travels. 
 
 lias just been in to tell me about it. His face is 
 rather elongated this evening. 
 
 We commit ourselves again to the vasty deep on 
 Tuesday, the 10th. 
 
iial's travels. 187 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 NAPLES TO EGYPT. 
 
 If yon knew the difficulties whicli surronnd your 
 correspondent at this time, you would certainly 
 appreciate this eflbrt of his to write you a letter. 
 He is seated • in a very narrow little state-room, 
 two by six feet, on board one of the most dimi- 
 nutive steamers that ever attempted the voyage 
 across the Mediterranean, his knees and the back 
 of a book doing the duty of a writing-desk. He 
 is doing his level best to maintain a perpendicular, 
 but evidently fails, as is seen by his head coming in 
 contact, first with the berth on the one side, and the 
 wall on the other, caused by the masterly efforts of 
 the little steamer to mount the ponderous waves so 
 peculiar to the middle of the Great Sea. Still, not- 
 withstanding the waves, and the nausea produced 
 thereby, he persists, determined to get oif an epistle 
 of some sort, which, under the circumstances, you 
 cannot expect to be either long or brilliant. 
 
 "A life on the ocean wave" will do well enough 
 to talk about, and is a pretty thing when well sung 
 with a good accompaniment, but a life on the 
 ocean wave in reality is not the thing it is cracked 
 
188 hal's travels. 
 
 up to be. The " flashing brine, the spray, and the 
 tempest roar" are sublime things, in the distance, 
 suggestive of any amount of poetry, but, upon a 
 familiar approach, the poetry vanishes like a thing 
 of air. To those who love good dinners and quiet 
 stomachs thereafter, I would say, " Go not down to 
 the sea in ships." I say this from experience, having 
 been for the past four days riding upon the raging 
 billows of the deep blue sea, where sharks do swim, 
 and monsters of the vasty deep do congregate. 
 
 Four daj's ago we glided out of the beautiful 
 Bay of Naples, with as clear a sky and as smooth 
 a sea as heart could wish. Our little party rejoiced 
 with exceeding gladness at the prospect of a plea- 
 sant voyage to the land of the Pharaohs. Song and 
 merriment were kept up on board the ship through- 
 out the da}^, and until a late hour at night. My 
 friend Smith was in ecstasies, and even his hand- 
 some young wife condescended to entertain the com- 
 pany with "Annie Laurie" and the "Prairie Flower," 
 which she sang to perfection, accompanied with the 
 guitar. Smith told me he thought her voice an- 
 gelic. 
 
 Early the next morning we found ourselves in the 
 strait, and opposite the city of Messina, on the 
 picturesque island of Sicily. Here our ship stopped 
 four hours, giving us time to " do up" Messina. 
 Without entering into any description of this city, 
 I will only say that it is a second edition of Kaples 
 on a small scale, very handsome at a distance. 
 
 About the time we sailed from Messina, the 
 
hal's travels. 189 
 
 lieaveus became dark, and in an hour the wind 
 blew great guns, lashing the sea into foaming bil- 
 lows, while the rain came down in torrents. Our 
 little steamer reared and pitched like a little dog in 
 high oats, riding the great waves like a thing of life. 
 The passengers were all huddled together in the 
 saloon, and the most sober stillness prevailed. A 
 more grave and serious company I never saw, ex- 
 cept Smith, who boasts that he is never sea-sick. 
 A joke under such circumstances I thought really 
 barbarous — in very bad taste, to say the least — but 
 Smith persisted in getting oil' two or three of the 
 most shocking kind, which, however, nobody 
 laughed at but himself. The vomiting brought 
 about by the agitation of the waters, he heartlessly 
 called "casting up accounts," and laughed at it as 
 a joke. But the merriment of Mr. Smith was soon 
 brought to an abrupt termination, for the illness of. 
 Mrs. S. became very violent. She heaved and 
 groaned in great agony. Said she thought she 
 would die. Smith became earnest, and told her 
 not to think of such a thing. She declared she 
 would die. Smith begged her not to do so. She 
 asserted roundly and positively that she would not 
 live half an hour, when Smith cried — called her his 
 sweet angel, and begged her in the most piteous 
 tones, for his sake, and for the sake of a future 
 generation of Smiths, to live. His earnest persua- 
 sions overcame her, and she lived. This affecting 
 scene caused many of us to forget our own sickness 
 for the time, but it returned in time to remind us 
 
190 hal's travels. 
 
 that the storm was still raging. Towards ten o'clock 
 at night the violence of the storm was spent, but the 
 sea continued rough enough to keep up the sickness 
 most of the night. We thought many times during 
 the night, of the storm that raged on these same 
 waters, some eighteen hundred years ago, when the 
 Apostle Paul was making his voyage across the 
 Mediterranean, an account of which may be found 
 in the 27th and 28th chapters of the Acts of the 
 Apostles. Early the next morning we entered the 
 harbor of Malta, the place where the apostle and 
 his company were shipwrecked. The bay where 
 the wreck occurred is still called St. Paul's Bay. 
 Malta is a large and pretty city — one of the cleanest 
 cities I ever saw — and to show the intense passion 
 of the people for cleanliness, they tr^^ to clean every- 
 body who goes there out of their cash. For instance, 
 a party of us went ashore and took breakfast at a 
 hotel — a very small breakfast, consisting of eggs and 
 coffee — for which we paid seventy-five cents each. I 
 desired to lay in supplies there for my Egyptian tour, 
 but found the prices too high for every thing but 
 tobacco. I shall always have some respect for Malta 
 for furnishing me a good article of chewing-tobacco 
 cheap — the first I have fo.und this side of ITew York. 
 The luxury of chewing-tobacco is unknown in other 
 portions of Europe ; and I advise all those who are 
 fond of masticating the weed, to bring as much with 
 them when they come over as they can conveniently 
 smuggle in. Otherwise they will fare but middling. 
 At twelve o'clock yesterday we sailed from Malta. 
 
iial's travels. 191 
 
 Sea comparatively smooth. Most of the invalids 
 were sunning themselves on deck. Some got quite 
 lively, and a song could occasionally be heard. We 
 Avere a mixed company, consisting of Americans, 
 (wlio predominated, there being fourteen of us,) 
 French, Italians, Greeks, Maltese, Germans, and 
 Turks. We have all languages, and a variety of 
 costumes. 
 
 An incident occurred late in the afternoon, worth 
 mentioning, perhaps. Madam Smith had so far re- 
 covered as to be able to get upon deck. She looked 
 charmingly pale and interesting, and came up smil- 
 ing like an aurora. As she walked across the deck, 
 the ship brought a sudden lurch just as her foot 
 came in contact with a coil of rope, which threw the 
 unfortunate lady flat upon her face, and at the same 
 instant a spanking breeze came whisking along, and 
 in the rudest manner took unmentionable and un- 
 warrantable liberties with her crinoline, and 
 
 But some scenes are indescribable, and others are 
 not proper to be described. I will only say that the 
 charming and innocent Madam S. retired to her 
 state-room, and has not been seen since the sad 
 catastrophe. Mr. Smith informs me that the occur- 
 rence has had a most shocking efl:ect upon the 
 Madam's nerves. 
 
 This is the fourth day of our vo^'age. We sailed 
 in sight of the coast of Africa all the forenoon to- 
 day. An hour or two ago the pilot pointed out to 
 me a dim speck in the distance, Avhich lie said was 
 Crete. That is the island where I think the Apostle 
 
192 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Paul wanted to stop and winter, when sailing over 
 this sea. The sea is pretty rough, and with your 
 permission I will stop writing now, and finish at 
 some future time. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 15. — We are sailing this evening 
 over a tolerably quiet sea, though it was rough 
 enough this morning. At breakfast it was an- 
 nounced that we would have preaching in the saloon 
 at 11 o'clock. (We have three Kew England 
 preachers in our party — all of whom are of the 
 "immortal three thousand.") When the hour ar- 
 rived, only seven of us, including the preacher, as- 
 sembled at the place of worship, the rest having 
 suddenly relapsed into sea-sickness. The preacher 
 read the 27th chapter of Acts, and after we had 
 sung some old familiar hymns, he delivered a most 
 excellent discourse from the text, " If God be for us, 
 who can be against us ?" Nothing unusual has oc- 
 curred to-day. We are promised a sight of Alex- 
 andria to-morrow morning, and I shall certainly 
 hail the sight with gladness. Yours, etc., 
 
 Hal. 
 
hal's travels. 198 
 
 LETTER XXI. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA — EGYPT. 
 
 And so I am in Egypt — the land into wliich 
 Joseph was sold as a slave — the land of the Pha- 
 raoh's — the land of the bondage of the children of 
 Israel — the land of Moses and of Aaron, and the 
 land once cursed with ten plagues. I am in the 
 ancient city of Alexandria, built by Alexander the 
 Great more than three hundred years before the 
 birth of our Saviour. It was in a ship of Alexandria 
 that Paul sailed to Rome. 
 
 Our debut into this city was funny enough. It 
 was early on Monday morning our ship anchored in 
 the bay. By the time the anchor reached the bot- 
 tom we were surrounded by a multitude of boats, 
 and no less than a hundred bare-legged, shirt-tailed, 
 turbancd Turks and Egyptians, and about half that 
 number of loose-trowsered brigandish-looking crea- 
 tures, were mounting up the sides and tumbling 
 into our ship upon every quarter. I thought ISTaples 
 was so77ie for noise and confusion, but it was nothing. 
 Then there was a scramble for the baggage. Every 
 yellow-skinned dog that could lay his hands on an 
 article of baggage seized it, and was for lugging it 
 7 
 
194 iial's travels. 
 
 into Ills boat, tliinking thereby to secure the owner 
 of the article for a passenger to the shore. I held 
 on to my carpet-bag, but had to use my stick freely 
 to keep the creatures from tearing it aAvay from me. 
 Smith cursed and swore like a madman, and vowed 
 he would shoot a score of the scoundrels, but un- 
 fortunately his revolver was locked up in his trunk, 
 and his trunk gone he knew not where. The 
 Madam was awfully frightened, and for a time 
 threatened to go into a fit. I assisted in restoring 
 her by procuring from the steward a little brandy 
 and water — a wonderful medicine to promote cour- 
 age. Smith finally found his trunk in the boat of a 
 big-bearded fellow, who said he had taken it from 
 a thief who was running ofi" with it. Smith gave 
 him a shilling for rescuing his trunk, and took pas- 
 sage with him. The big-bearded fellow was the 
 rogue who had taken the trunk at first, and then 
 invented the lie to ward ofi' the anger of the owner, 
 and to get the shilling for his honesty. The hotel- 
 runners were out in force, and pitched into us with 
 as much earnestness as the boatmen. Each one 
 praised his own hotel, and did what he could to 
 disparage his rivals'. As ours is a large party, we 
 had a good deal of fun in receiving bids. Finally 
 we accepted the ofifer of the proprietor of the Hotel 
 des Indies, where we have fared well (for Egypt) for 
 two days. 
 
 This is a strange country. Every thing is so en- 
 tirely different from what I have seen in America 
 and Europe, that I have gazed and wondered with 
 
hal's travels. 195 
 
 admiration continually. The flowing trowsers, 
 quaint coats and mantles, picturesque turbans and 
 Fez caps — and then to see all the burdens carried 
 upon camels, instead of wagons — goat-skins of 
 water carried upon asses — all so strange ! Unlike 
 our country and Europe, the fashions and manners 
 of the Asiatics never change. They are the same 
 now that they were in the da3-s of Abraham. Few 
 people walk here. Everybody rides the donkey. 
 They stand ready saddled in great herds at nearly 
 ever}^ corner. I have been on the back of one of 
 the nimble little creatures almost continually, since 
 my arrival. Nearly all of our party have done the 
 same. Our first jaunt was to Pompey's Pillar, 
 which stands about a mile out, then to Cleopatra's 
 jSTeedles, to the Catacombs, to the ruins of Ancient 
 Alexandria — everywhere. Riding is cheap, and we 
 ride to every place. We go in a gallop nearly all 
 the time, both ladies and gentlemen. It is rare 
 fun, and no mistake. Every donke}^ has a driver 
 to follow, with a stick. We have a donkey and a 
 driver a whole day for two shillings. We get the 
 worth of our money, and I am sure they earn all 
 they get. The long-legged drivers wear nothing in 
 the world but long shirts, and can run all day. There 
 are twelve of us who usuall}^ ride out together; and 
 to see us go dashing at full speed through the streets, 
 with twelve drivers yelling at our heels, makes the 
 quiet old Mussulmans stare w^ith no little surprise. 
 I guess they think the Americans are strange crea- 
 
196 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 tares. My friend Smitli says he is sorry lie did uot 
 come to Egypt sooner. Had no idea it was sucli a 
 funny place. He curses tlie d — d barbarians for 
 dressing in such outlandish style, and is not a little 
 shocked at the practice of covering up the faces of 
 the women, all but the ejes. He swears he will 
 take an Egyptian donkey home with him. Wants 
 to ride a camel ; but we persuade him to wait till 
 we reach Grand Cairo, for which city we leave to- 
 morrow. 
 
 Alexandria contains about 80,000 inhabitants. 
 The houses don't seem to be built in any particular 
 form, but seem to be thrown together at random — 
 roofs all flat, and in the Turkish part of the town 
 are seldom more than one story high. The houses 
 are much better, and the streets are of a respectable 
 width in the Frank part of the city. People of all 
 nations, nearly, live here — Turks, Greeks, Assy- 
 rians, Maltese, Europeans, Nubians, etc., etc. 
 
 We have been beset with a horde of dragomans 
 ever since our arrival, desiring the job of carrying 
 us up the Mle, or anywhere else we may choose to 
 go. We have not got our route fully determined 
 upon yet. We may go from Cairo first to Mount 
 Sinai, or we may go up the Nile. It is too early for 
 our travels in Palestine. We will determine upon 
 a route when we reach Cairo. 
 
 Smith says he is glad he came to Egypt, because 
 there are no noted painters or sculptors here. He 
 knows that Mrs. S. would be sitting for more pic- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 197 
 
 tures of herself, if she could find a. painter. lie 
 says he knows she will want to take a camel home 
 with her. 
 
 In my rides around here I notice hundreds of 
 Bedouins' tents scattered about over the barren 
 sand hills. They look quite primitive and pic- 
 turesque. The Bedouins are a filthy, lazy people, 
 and man}^ of them, I observe, wear nothing but a 
 piece of old shirt, and others are in a state of 
 nature. Don't know how they live. A whole 
 family will possess nothing in the world but a tent 
 and the few rags they have on their backs. The 
 poorest people in our country are wealthy, compared 
 to these poor wandering creatures. 
 
 I had almost forgotten to tell you that we paid a 
 visit to the Pasha's Palace to-day. It is the neatest 
 and most luxurious establishment I have seen, 
 though not near so large nor imposing as many of 
 the palaces of Europe. "Wc were required to leave 
 
198 hal's travels. 
 
 our shoes at the door, and were furnished with 
 slippers. The Pasha is not here at present. Has 
 gone up to Cairo. We were not admitted into the 
 Harem, the palace of the Pasha's wives, which 
 stands opposite the one we entered. 
 
 I would write a longer letter, but the mosquitoes 
 and fleas are working upon me terribly. 
 
 Yours, etc., Hal. 
 
iial's travels. 199 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO. 
 
 A WISE man has said that " much study is a wea- 
 rincss of the flesh." Such beino; the fact, I shall 
 drop you a few disjointed sentences, gotten up with 
 the very smallest amount of study ; for, in this de- 
 bilitating climate, it takes an industrious man 
 indeed to concoct a studied epistle. You must 
 remember your correspondent is now in Africa, a 
 country in which industry is a rank stranger, and 
 likely to remain so. 
 
 Xow, for convenience, and as I am too lazy to 
 tell you every thing, suppose you imagine yourself 
 with me in my journeyings since the date of my 
 last letter, which was, I believe, from Alexandria. 
 Leaving the Hotel des Indies on the morning of 
 the 18th inst., we wend our way through the 
 narrow, dirty streets of that city, in the queerest 
 omnibus that civilized man ever saw. An omnibus 
 docs not accord with our notions of Eastern loco- 
 motion, where camels, dromedaries, and asses have 
 reigned supreme ever since Ham and his progeny 
 peopled the land of Egypt, We are surprised to 
 see an omnibus. But hark ! What familiar sound 
 
200 hal's travels. 
 
 is that? A locomotive whistle, as I live! And is 
 it possible, you ask, that we have to go to Cairo by 
 mere railroad ? It is even so, my friend ; for a rail- 
 road has found its way into Egypt ; and as it is the 
 best we can do, we must put up with it. Terrible 
 bore ! But here we are, at the depot. We buy our 
 tickets, or rather Mr. Smith buys them for us ; for, 
 as he is a sharp man to drive a trade, we have 
 elected him treasurer and captain of our party. He 
 is proud of his position, and spares no pains to ren- 
 der satisfaction. We travel as one family, and have 
 all our bills in common, which Mr. Smith inva- 
 riably disputes and higgles over until they are 
 reduced from ten to twenty-live per cent. He 
 saves us much expense by his shrewdness. You 
 observe that our leader has brought to the aid of 
 his dignity a uniform well becoming a bold captain. 
 At Malta he bought a few yards of gold lace and a 
 military cap. The lace he has had sewed upon his 
 pants, upon his shoulders, and a strip around his 
 cap. Shining gilt buttons also adorn his coat. He 
 is quite an officer in appearance, and acts his part 
 to admiration. He says that a friend of his in 
 Boston told him that if he ever visited Egypt or 
 Spain, he must don the military dress, to inspire 
 awe in the natives. He has followed the advice, 
 not only in dress, but in his noble bearing. Smith 
 we all consider indispensable. 
 
 But the bell rings, and we are off for Grand 
 Cairo — Cairo the magnificent— Cairo the Victorious. 
 Here we go, whizzing through the delta, up the 
 
ual's travels. 201 
 
 valley of the Wile ; the richest country, perhaps, in 
 the world. The whole country, you see, is inter- 
 sected with canals, and at every bound we see 
 machines for raising water, to irrigate the soil. 
 We pass by numerous villages embowered in groves 
 of palm trees. But for the palms, these villages 
 would be the most desolate, forlorn-looking places 
 we ever saw ; for they are composed of nothing but 
 mud huts, covered with cornstalks or straw. The 
 inhabitants are miserable-looking creatures, many 
 of them half naked. There is a ghastly sameness 
 about all these villages — and people. Nearly the 
 whole face of the earth is green with crops of luxu- 
 riant wheat and clover, with here and there a 
 familiar-looking cotton-field. And now cast your 
 e3'es over the beautiful plain upon the left. It is 
 exceeding fiiir to look upon ; " the best of the land 
 of Egypt;" and the numerous flocks and herds 
 you see before you, tell you that you are viewing 
 the land of Goshen. This is the country that 
 Pharaoh gave to the patriarch Jacob, and his sons. 
 It is still good for cattle. 
 
 Seven hours' run, and the domes and minarets of 
 the mosques of the capital of Egypt rise before us. 
 That is Grand Cairo, the pride of Egypt, and one of 
 the largest cities of the East. At four o'clock we 
 halt at the depot, and here we again find those hor- 
 rible evidences of European or American encroach- 
 ment — omnibusses — and, what is still more horrible, 
 we find a multitude of hotel "drummers." "We 
 don't like this. It is not the feast we were invited 
 
202 hal's travels. 
 
 to. We came to the East to find eastern manners 
 and customs, but instead of that we are actually met 
 hy men wearing coats and hats, and, what is worse, 
 addressed in plain English ; and, even worse than 
 that, importuned to go to Shepherd's Hotel, and Wil- 
 liams's Hotel ! Think of that, will you ! " Shepherd" 
 and "Williams" keeping hotel in Grand Cairo! 
 Romance is knocked into the middle of next week ! 
 
 Our party is now permanently reduced to twelve, 
 just enough to fill an omnibus. Smith drives a bar- 
 gain with the conductor, and we despairingly get 
 into the lumbering vehicle, with a determination to 
 visit all the hotels, and stop at the one that will take 
 us on the best terms. We go first to Shepherd's, 
 and while Captain Smith (I must give him his title) 
 is chafiering with the landlord about the price, a 
 half-blind, half-naked Arab comes up to the side of 
 the omnibus with matches to sell. I take a 
 box, and give the fellow a rupee to change, (half a 
 dollar.) In five seconds my rupee, in company with 
 the Arab and his basket of matches, is out of sight. 
 I jump out and follow in vain. He is at least a 
 quarter of a mile away. The villainous idlers and 
 shirt-tail donkey-boys about the hotel laugh at my 
 discomfiture. 
 
 We leave Shepherd's and drive to four or five 
 other hotels, and finally make a satisfactory bargain 
 with the landlord of the Hotel d' Orient, where we 
 unpack and settle down for a season. Capt. Smith 
 did himself great credit in beating the hotel-keeper 
 down in his price. He contends that as we tako 
 
hal's travels. 203 
 
 lodgings by wholesale, we ouglit to have tliem at 
 wholesale prices. Very right. 
 
 So here we are in Cairo, surrounded with drago- 
 men, all wanting employment. We are besieged 
 and set upon by swarms of them. We all shake 
 them off, and send them to Capt. Smith. All these 
 dragomen have something less than a peck of cer- 
 tificates each, which they expect us to read, and 
 Smith reads them. 
 
 And now another morning has dawned. Having 
 had a night's rest, we will sally forth and see the 
 city. We desire to walk, but the crowd of donkeys 
 waiting at the door is evidence that we are expected 
 to ride. We muster our forces, and, with the cap- 
 tain in advance, make a gallant charge towards the 
 open street, but the donkey-bo^^s about the door are 
 too many for us. We retreat ingloriously. Rally 
 and make another charge, but our repulse is more 
 signal than at first. The donkeys have been rein- 
 forced. We hold a council, and determine to break 
 through at all hazards. The captain shouts, flour- 
 ishes his shillalch, and, with the vigor of Peter Mc- 
 Graw at Donnybrook Fair, makes a bold rush, fol- 
 lowed by us all in solid column : knocks down two 
 Arabs, and nearl}' punches the eye out of a third, 
 but all to no purpose. The column of donkeys and 
 donkey-boys is impenetrable. We hold another 
 council, and capitulate. Twelve donkeys arc imme- 
 diately hired, and a few minutes after, twelve Am- 
 ericans, eight gentlemen and four ladies, are gallop- 
 ing at full speed through the narrow streets of Cairo, 
 
204 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 followed by twelve Arab boys whose vociferous yells 
 keep the road before us clear. Tbeir yells are in- 
 cessant, and interpreted would be something like, 
 "0 old man ! virgin ! get out of the way ! on the 
 right ! on the left ! look to your bare feet ! These 
 Americans come, they come, they come ! Stand 
 not in the way, ye children of the true faith !" 
 "We make for the citadel — a powerful fortress on a 
 hill overlooking the city. It was into this citadel 
 that Mohammed Ali Pasha inveigled the Mama- 
 lukes and had them massacred. Within the citadel 
 is the Pasha's Palace, and the finest mosque in the 
 city. "We take off our shoes and enter, and see the 
 faithful x^rostrating themselves with their faces to- 
 wards Mecca. We now walk to the edge of the 
 wall of the fortress and look out upon the scene 
 below. Is it not magnificent ? The city from here 
 looks beautiful, for the numerous domes and grace- 
 ful minarets look very picturesque. If Cairo could 
 onl}^ be seen from here, we should call it a city of 
 great beauty ; but when we enter the narrow, filthy 
 streets, and are continually jostled by loaded don- 
 keys, and camels, and miserable sore-eyed people, 
 we desire to be somewhere else. Few of the streets 
 are wide enough to admit carriages. But from the 
 walls of the citadel we see none of this hideousness. 
 All is fair and comely. Now look away off to the 
 west. Is not that a picture ? There is nothing to 
 bound the vision. You see the great river Mle 
 come winding down between its green banks for 
 many, many miles, dotted with hundreds of sail- 
 
hal's travels. 205 
 
 boats. ]S"ow look across twelve miles in the south- 
 west. There are tlie Pyramids of Ghezeh, just as 
 yon have seen them in pictures all your life. They 
 look perfectly natural — -just exactly as you expected 
 to see them. Don't old Cheops loom up proudly ! 
 Does not seem to be more than two or three miles 
 oiF, but it is twelve. Wonderful pile ! We will go 
 and take a nearer view of it some day, so be pa- 
 tient. 
 
 But come, let us return to our hotel. We must 
 hold a general council this evening. One portion of 
 our part}^ have got their heads set towards Mount 
 Sinai, and the rest of us desire a trip up the Nile. 
 It is time a decision Avas come to. Three "highly 
 respectable gentlemen" of most villainous aspect 
 have kindly tendered their services to conduct us 
 across the desert to Sinai. They are true descend- 
 ants of Ishmael. 
 
 But look! Here comes a wedding -procession. 
 Two old fellows lead it, beating something like rude 
 drums ; immediately behind them is the bride, closely 
 veiled, supported by tAvo other women, also veiled. 
 The friends of the bride bring up the rear with songs 
 and laughter. She is on her way to the house of 
 her intended, to be delivered over, after which she 
 will no more be seen upon the streets, for a husband 
 never sutfers his wife to go abroad in Egypt. The 
 Koran prohibits Mohammedan wives exhibiting 
 themselves in public, and the jealousy of the hus- 
 bands endorses the prohibition. 
 
 Here we are, at the hotel. We take dinner, and 
 
206 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 discuss the question as to our future movements. 
 The three "immortal 'New England clergymen" 
 plead strongly for the Sinai trip, but the rest of 
 us have made up our minds to see Thebes and the 
 crocodiles. The preachers waver a little, and we 
 think our arguments have well-nigh prevailed. 
 "We end the discussion and retire to our rooms. 
 
 Another day has broken upon us, fair and lovely. 
 This is our third day in Cairo. We take a drago- 
 man and start out on a sight-seeing tour. Remember- 
 ing our defeat yesterday morning, we quietly yield 
 ourselves into the hands of the donkey-boys, and 
 are soon off in a canter, raising clouds of dust and 
 a terrible clatter. First we will go to the Island of 
 Rhoda, a beautiful isle in the Mle, covered with 
 rich vegetation and some fine gardens. A palace 
 of one of the former rulers of Egypt stands on this 
 island. Here is a picturesque grotto built of stones, 
 shells and coral, said to mark the spot where the 
 infant Moses was found in the bulrushes. iTow we 
 will go to the upper end of the island and see the 
 Nilometer, or Nile -measurer. It is a chamber 
 perhaps forty feet square, with a pillar in the centre, 
 marked for ascertaining the rise of the Nile. 
 "When the river is rising, the dail}^ rise is pro- 
 claimed in the streets of the city each morning, by 
 criers, in the different wards of the town. There is 
 nothing remarkable about this pillar, except its 
 antiquity. It was established many years before 
 Christ. 
 
 Now, having seen the grotto, the palace, and the 
 
hal's travels. 20T 
 
 Nilonieter, wc will rccross this branch of the river, 
 and go to the mosque of the Howling Dervishes, for 
 this is Friday, and their service begins at one 
 o'clock. "We go through a shady court into a large 
 square room, the floor of which is covered with 
 matting, and around a circle in the centre arc 
 spread some rugs and sheep-skins. The brethren 
 have commenced coming in, and in a few minutes 
 the circle is complete. They take their seats on 
 sheep-skins, and begin a humming noise, which, if 
 we desired to be very courteous, we might call 
 singing. Now contemplate them, as they sit there, 
 swaying their bodies to and fro. There are thirty 
 of them, perhaps ; most uncouth-looking creatures ; 
 sturdy, undersized, broad-shouldered, bare-legged, 
 splay-footed, horny -fisted, dark -browed, savage- 
 looking, hairy -throated creatures, whose coun- 
 tenances denote the most desperate sanctimonious- 
 ness. Now one old fellow of a liver-and-tan color, 
 and a bull-terrier expression, takes his stand in the 
 centre of the circle. A wave of the hand brings 
 the worshippers to their feet. The turbans of all 
 who have long hair are removed. Then, at the 
 word of command, they commence swaying their 
 bodies back and forth, each making a noise, as he 
 bends his body, not unlike the puffing of a high- 
 pressure steamboat. This exercise is continued for 
 one hour, without intermission, the movement 
 gradually growing more rapid, and the coughing 
 noise growing louder, until it resembles a howl. 
 The movement becomes so rapid that the long hair 
 
208 hal's travels. 
 
 can be heard to crack as the jerk is made. Some 
 of them bend over so far as to almost touch the 
 floor. Then- movements are directed by the old 
 priest who stands in the centre. The ceremony is 
 accompanied with a strange kind of music — drums, 
 tambourines, flageolets, etc., which is any thing but 
 harmonious. This jerking movement is carried on 
 until some of the worshippers become so mesmer- 
 ized that they go into all sorts of strange antics, 
 and some fall down in fits of epilepsy, foaming at 
 the mouth. When this state is attained, the ex- 
 hibition closes, and visitors are expected to retire. 
 It is wonderful that it does not kill them. 'No one 
 will desire to see such an exhibition a second time. 
 The Dervish service being over, we will go to the 
 mosque of Amru, the oldest and most extensive in 
 the city. It is almost in ruins ; indeed, much of it 
 has already fallen. There is a superstition among 
 the Moslems, that when this mosque falls, Moham- 
 medanism will cease ; that a new prophet will arise, 
 whose prophecies shall supersede the Koran. That 
 time will not be long, judging from the looks of 
 these ancient walls. In this mosque are two upright 
 stone pillars, between which all the faithful must 
 pass. All who pass between them can gain admit- 
 tance into the kingdom of heaven. Those whose 
 corporeal rotundity renders it impossible for them 
 to get through, can never make the trip to the 
 Moslem heaven ; for it is said that they are too 
 fond of the good things of this world. By a very 
 tight squeeze, you see that I can get through, not- 
 
iial's travels. 209 
 
 withstanding my increased bulk, caused, no doubt, 
 by my sojourn among the savory leeks and onions 
 of Egypt. 
 
 Now we will go up into Old Cairo, and visit the 
 old Coptic Church, beneath which is a grotto, in 
 which it is said the Virgin Mary and the infant 
 Saviour dwelt during their stay in Egypt, when 
 they fled from Ilerod. I know not the authority 
 for the tradition. The house and the grotto bear 
 evidence of great age, and were perhaps here at the 
 time of our Saviour. The Coptic Christians fully 
 credit the tradition. 
 
 Having done a pretty good day's work in the 
 way of sight-seeing, we will return to our hotel 
 and — sleep. 
 
 Now has arrived our fourth daj' in Cairo. We 
 have talked over again the respective routes of the 
 Nile and Mount Sinai. The Nile predominates, 
 and Captain Smith and your friend Hal have been 
 deputized to go down to the river, to select boats 
 for the trip. We require two boats : six only can 
 go in one boat. I am decidedly happy this morn- 
 ing ; for I have had my heart set upon a trip up the 
 Nile. We jump upon donkeys and gallop down to 
 the river — a mile and a half from our hotel. Here 
 are quite a number of boats, waiting to be hired. 
 How nice and cosy they are ! A sight of them 
 makes me doubly anxious to go up the river. Here 
 is a snug little cabin, and six cosy little bunks. 
 Won't we have a nice time ! We have selected an 
 experienced and intelligent dragoman, who brought 
 
210 hal's travels. 
 
 us letters of recommendation from Bayard Taylor, 
 and many other Americans. He goes with us to 
 select the boats, and has promised to faithfully 
 superintend the cleansing of those we select; for, 
 as the Nile boats are nearly all alike, cleanliness is 
 the main point to look to in making a selection. 
 This is very important ; for there are still lingering 
 remnants of those terrible plagues once sent upon 
 Egypt by the Almighty. Fleas and bedbugs are 
 not the worst of the vermin met with here. Well, 
 we select two, and go back to the hotel to report, 
 when, horrible ! we find the party again burst up, 
 or nearly so. Mr. Brown has again flown from his 
 agreement, and again declares for Mount Sinai, and 
 is followed by Mr. Jones and two others. And 
 thus we stand — eight in favor of the Nile, and four 
 against it. A split seems inevitable, but we perse- 
 vere, knowing that men who have already changed 
 twice are likely to change again. We all take 
 donkeys and ride out to the Shubra gardens and 
 country palace of the Pasha, the most beautiful 
 place we have yet seen in Egypt. This closes the 
 day. We will now return to our hotel and discuss 
 the route question again. 
 
 Fifth day in Cairo — Sunday. We rest all the 
 forenoon, and in the afternoon go to the American 
 Mission-rooms, and hear a discourse by Mr. C, one 
 of our party, and afterwards a short talk by Mr. W., 
 another one of our party. 
 
 Sixth day. Our donkeys are brought out early ; 
 for to-day we visit Heliopolis, the ancient city of 
 
iial's travels. 211 
 
 On. We mount, and, as usual, leave the city in a 
 lively gallop. We ride some eight or nine miles, 
 part of the Avay through desert, and part through 
 rich farms. And here we are, at Ilcliopolis. We 
 see nothing like a city now. There is nothing left 
 to mark the place where the ancient city stood, ex- 
 cept one immense granite ohelisk, covered with 
 hieroglyphics, which tell the story of its ancient 
 greatness. We see many mounds, where once 
 stood massive huildiugs, hut they have neither 
 shape nor comeliness. Traces of the old walls are 
 plainly disecrnihle, with their gates, hut that is all. 
 A little outside the wall is a well of water, held in 
 great esteem hy the Coptic Christians, because it is 
 said that Joseph and Mary, w^ith the infant Jesus, 
 drank and rested there, upon their first coming into 
 Egypt. A sycamore tree stands over it, which is 
 said to have been standing at that time. It is the 
 oldest-looking tree I ever saw — nine feet in diame- 
 ter one way, and three another, being fiat. 
 
 It was in this city of On that Joseph, the son of 
 Jacob, was married to the daughter of the high- 
 priest. That was a long time ago. 
 
 Having seen all that is to be seen here, we will 
 return to the city, and, if we get there in time, will 
 visit some of the Bazaars. 
 
 You have never been in an Eastern Bazaar 
 before ? No wonder you stare Avith your big eyes. 
 Here you see, in the space of one hundred yards, 
 fifty stores at least ; perhaps more. They are stuck 
 
212 hal's travels. 
 
 in the sides of the houses, like cupboards. The 
 floor is raised perhaps two feet. The merchant sits 
 cross-legged in the middle, smoking his pipe ; and 
 if you ask to see an article, he hands it down to 
 you without changing his position ; for he can reach 
 any shelf in his little box without moving. He 
 seems perfectly indifferent about selling, seeming 
 to care more about his " chibouk" than for worldly 
 gains. He sits "like Patience on a monument," 
 from morning till night. This one you see pufiing 
 smoke, and twirling his fierce moustache, is 
 but a specimen of a thousand. You are surprised 
 at the great number of these turban ed traders. 
 jSTothing but a thin partition divides these stores 
 one from another, and the streets on which they 
 are located are so narrow that a merchant can retain 
 his seat and hand his pipe across to his opposite 
 neighbor. When a loaded camel passes through, 
 which we often see, foot passengers have to crouch 
 close to the wall, or they are in danger. But it is 
 getting late, and we will return to the hotel, and 
 again discuss the route question. 
 
 Seventh day. Glorious news ! The Mount Sinai 
 party has again come round, and announced their 
 unalterable determination to go up the Mle. Now 
 for preparations in earnest. Achmet Sciada (this is 
 the name of our dragoman) now has orders to fit 
 out the expedition with the utmost dispatch. We 
 all take donkeys and gallop down to see the boats. 
 The ladies express themselves highly pleased with 
 the appearance of the boats, and the gentlemen are 
 
hal's travels. 213 
 
 all satisfied. Orders are given to have the fleas, 
 bed-bugs, and other vermin utterly and uncompro- 
 misingly destroyed, which Achmet says shall be 
 done. Rats are also to be excommunicated, and 
 cockroaches banished. Capt. Smith and your friend 
 are to superintend these warlike measures. The 
 boats are nice and trim, and look like good sailers. 
 They are perhaps seventy feet long, and are rigged 
 with immense leg-of-mutton sails. Each is to be 
 manned with fourteen men, including the cooks 
 and waiters. We have christened them " Hiawatha" 
 and "Minnehaha." We are indebted to Mrs. Smith, 
 who has a poetical turn of mind, for these names. 
 We will return now to the hotel and finish up the 
 sight-seeing, while the dragoman gets things in 
 readiness for a start. Lunch is ready when we 
 arrive at the hotel. We eat, and now, ho ! for the 
 "Petrified Forest." 
 
 Again in the saddle, and with our twelve donkey- 
 boys yelling at our heels, we clatter through the 
 streets, and emerge from the eastern gate of the city 
 and enter at once into the desert. Two hours' ride 
 through desolation, where no green thing meets the 
 eye, and we reach what is called the "Petrified 
 Forest." It is an immense field of logs, and stumps, 
 and chips, of all shapes and sizes, looking precisely 
 like wood, but all solid stone. Some have the ap- 
 pearance of oak, and some walnut. There are im- 
 mense quantities of it. How or when it got here, 
 are questions for wise men to answer if they can. 
 
214 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 We gather many specimens, and return to Cairo 
 "with a pocket-full of rocks." 
 
 Eighth clay. This is a day of sadness. We are 
 told this morning that an American who has been 
 lying here sick for some days, is rapidly sinking. 
 He returned to Cairo a week or two ago from Syria, 
 ill of a fever, which has continued to grow worse 
 daily. He is a Mr. Osborne, of Philadelphia. Our 
 preparations for departure are made without noise 
 or hilarity. .... 
 
 Mr. Osborne has now breathed his last, and lies 
 in an upper room, cold in death. He died alone, 
 as it were. A few short months ago he left his wife 
 in Geneva, expecting to return about this time. 
 His remains will be interred this evening, and a 
 letter will bear the sad intelligence to the bereaved 
 widow. He died with a Christian's hope. For- 
 tunate man ! He has completed his journey but a 
 little sooner than the rest of us. It's all right. 
 
 We are busy now, fixing for our departure. There 
 are many little luxuries as well as necessaries that 
 must be bought here, for we are told that nothing 
 can be got above here. We will go up to the Euro- 
 pean bazaar and get us a couple of American flags, 
 for it will not do to go up the Nile without showing 
 our colors. Mr. Smith is anxious for us to get a 
 young cannon to fire salutes as we meet other boats. 
 We are now ready to start to-morrow. Our drago- 
 man informs us that all the stores are on board, the 
 crew ready, and if we have a fair wind, we shall to- 
 
iial's travels. 215 
 
 morrow be wending our way towards Thebes, where 
 we shall wander among the greatest ruins in the 
 world. AYe all calculate on getting us a mummy 
 apiece, and a young crocodile or two. We shall 
 perhaps go to the first cataract, and take a look at the 
 Ethiopians in all their native beauty and 7iakcd sim- 
 plicit3^ We leave the hotel this evening, and shall 
 sleep on the boats to-night. We must not forget to 
 lay in a lot of pipes and a good supply of tobacco, 
 as well as a large supply of powder and shot, for we 
 are told that game is abundant up the Nile. Fishing- 
 tackle must also be remembered. So, farewell for 
 the present. 
 
 Hal. 
 
216 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 EGYPT — CAIRO TO THEBES. 
 
 All aboard ! Haul in the plank ! Ring the bell ! 
 Hoist the sail ! Spread the stars and stripes to the 
 breeze, and let us be off! 
 
 But hold ! There is no breeze. The flag clings 
 to the mast, and the bosom of the majestic ISTile is 
 as placid as a lake in summer. We must "wait a 
 little longer." 
 
 We moved into our new quarters last evening, 
 and have already settled down into a quietness al- 
 most home-like. We found our dear little " Minne- 
 haha" newly painted and varnished, swept and gar- 
 nished, neat as a pin — in short, all that fancy painted 
 her. We slept in her neat little state-rooms with 
 the sweet assurance that a war of extermination had 
 been successfully waged against the peace-destroy- 
 ing vermin so peculiar to Egypt, and particularly 
 to Mle boats. In other words, we found the "Min- 
 nehaha" innocent of bed-bugs. Our friends on 
 board the " Hiawatha" were not so fortunate. They 
 got up this morning with bitter lamentations. We 
 pity, but cannot help them. Achmet (our drago- 
 man) comforts them with the assurance that hostili- 
 
hal's travels. 217 
 
 ties shall be immediately recommenced and vigor- 
 ously prosecuted, until not a living bug or flea is 
 left to tell the tale. 
 
 "While we are waiting for the breeze, permit me 
 to introduce you to the "Minnehaha," which is to 
 be our home for six or seven weeks to come. See 
 how trim she is, and how gracefully she sits upon 
 the water. ISTow come aboard. See these cosy little 
 rooms. Here are three of them, eight by ten feet 
 square ; two beds in each, which answer the pur- 
 pose of sofas by day. See how nicely the floors are 
 carpeted, how richly the little windows are cur- 
 tained, and how beautifully the walls are striped off 
 with red, green, yellow, and white paint. Did you 
 ever see any thing more brilliant ? The artist un- 
 derstood the effect of mingling colors — didn't he? 
 A barber's shop was never more striped. Here we 
 have a table, six chairs, two tin candlesticks, a 
 swinging tin lantern, and an abundance of looking- 
 glass — our furniture all told. Now look on deck ; 
 here we have cages of turkeys, gccse, pigeons, and 
 chickens, besides a quarter of beef and several quar- 
 ters of mutton. In the hold we have bread, vege- 
 tables, flour, and all the etceteras necessary for a 
 two months' voyage — besides a goat to give us milk 
 by the way, and a sheep for future killing. This 
 cat we take along to catch the fleas — a tidy little 
 yellow cat she is. Every thing, you see, is home-like. 
 Here is an awning on the upper deck to protect us 
 from the sun. This will be our general lounging 
 place. 
 
218 hal's travels. 
 
 N'ow take a glance at our crew. There are tliir- 
 teeii in all, including tlie two cabin-boys. The cap- 
 tain is a noble-looking young Egj^ptian, tall and 
 brawny, with a flashing black eye. He wears a large 
 turban, which adds not a little to his noble appear- 
 ance. His dress is one peculiar to the country, 
 being a long blue shirt which reaches several inches 
 below the knees. He disdains to trammel his rich 
 brown legs with trowsers. The sailors, like their 
 captain, are all in their shirt-tails, but none of them, 
 save the helmsman, rejoice in the possession of the 
 turban. Our dragoman dresses in the richest Turk- 
 ish costume, with a turban of costly Damascus silk. 
 He is a fine-looking fellow, very quiet and gentle- 
 manly in his manners. We like him much. 
 
 The scene around us as we lie here at the wharf 
 is quite oriental. You see scores of Eg^^ptian wo- 
 men coming down to the river with the great earthen 
 water-pots on their heads. They wade into the 
 water, wash their feet and legs, fill their pots, and 
 depart. Like the men, they all wear the long blue 
 cotton shirts, with a yard or two of the same mate- 
 rial thrown gracefully over their heads, with which 
 they make prodigious efiiorts to conceal their faces 
 from the gaze of man. Their cotton shirts are so 
 scant and thin that they serve nearly as much to dis- 
 play' as to conceal their rather graceful forms. You 
 also see caravans of little donkeys coming down and 
 departing laden with goat-skins full of water. Oc- 
 casionally a camel is loaded, and waddles ofi" with 
 these water-skins. 
 
hal's travels. 219 
 
 But see ! our flag begins to float. The wind is 
 rising. The sailors flj' to their posts, push out into 
 the stream, spread the sails, we fire salutes, and are 
 off" — Hiawatha gallantly leading the way, and ^lin- 
 nehaha gayly tripping after. And now we scud away 
 before the breeze. Farewell to Grand Cairo. "Wc 
 are afloat upon the turbid bosom of the mighty 
 Nile. 
 
 And is it really so ? Am I on the great river of 
 Egypt, whose waters were once blood? the sands 
 upon whose beach were once lice ? Am I in the 
 land of Egypt, and near the very spot where the 
 prophet of God was taken from the bulrushes ? 
 And was it here that the locusts came up from the 
 great sea and destroyed every green thing ; where 
 the cold, slimy frogs came up and covered the lands, 
 penetrating into the very bedchambers, and infesting 
 the kneading-troughs ; where a great darkness came 
 upon the people, and the angel of death was in every 
 house ? It is even so ! Yonder is Memphis, or 
 Noph, where Pharaob lived. ISIoses was brought 
 up there as the son of a princess. Joseph lived 
 there, and Potiphar lived in the neighborhood. It 
 was there that the mighty miracles of God were 
 wrought by .the hand of his servant Moses, to con- 
 vince the heathen monarch of his great power. 
 There still stand the pyramids which Abraham and 
 Moses, and Jacob and Joseph, and all the patriarchs 
 have looked upon as w^e now see them. And away 
 over 3'Ondcr is the cit}' of On, which, like its neigh- 
 bor, Memphis, has fallen before the awful curse of 
 
220 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 God, as denounced by the prophets Jeremiah and 
 Ezekiel. It stood in the fruitful land of Goshen, 
 the best of the land of Egypt, which was given to 
 the patriarch Jacob and his sons. l!Tothing now re- 
 mains of that once great city but its fallen walls, 
 and one immense obelisk ! And this, too, is the 
 land to which our Saviour, when an infant, was 
 brought by Joseph and his espoused Mary to escape 
 the death which the wicked Herod would have ad- 
 m.inistered. Just over there is the subterranean 
 grotto in which he was nourished. The building 
 which stands above it is visible from where we stand, 
 and Christians worship even now in the very place. 
 But the breeze is blowing briskly, and our little 
 boats stem the current bravely. We pass the Island 
 of Rhoda, and are now opposite Ghezeh, and the 
 great Pyramids, and Memphis. We will not stop 
 to see them now, but wait until our return from 
 Upper Egypt. Mr. Smith is in ecstasies, and Mrs. 
 Smith is on deck, singing, 
 
 " how we fly 'neath the loud-creaking sail !" 
 
 The weather is perfectly delicious — neither too 
 hot nor too cold. We are still in sight of the domes 
 and minarets of Cairo. l!^umerous palm-groves and 
 mud villages are in sight. The scenery is so novel 
 that I shall not be able to confine myself much longer 
 to write. I want to be on deck. So be patient if 
 you can, and I will finish this letter at some future 
 time, should the spirit move me to take up the pen. 
 
 It has been many, many days since the foregoing 
 
iial's travels. 221 
 
 was written. We are now eighteen days out from 
 Cairo. Expect to see the great ruins of Thebes to- 
 morrow, should we have any wind to help us on — 
 an article we have been wanting for several days. 
 For me to note all the incidents that have occurred 
 along the way up the river would be both tiresome 
 and unprofitable, so I shall not do it. I will say, 
 however, that thus far the voyage has been a de- 
 lightful one ; and I shall always look back upon it 
 as one of the most pleasant seasons I ever enjoyed. 
 Incidents rich and racy, conversations fluent and 
 spic}', and songs solemn and comic, have made time 
 fly on sM'ift wings. "We have had head winds and 
 favoring winds, calms and storms, hot suns and chill- 
 ing breezes — every variety of weather except rain, 
 for it seldom rains in Egypt. We have strolled on 
 the shore, penetrated mud villages, talked to the 
 natives, and rolled in the sand on the margin of the 
 river, and kicked up our heels in the most free-and- 
 easy manner. I never knew what it was before to 
 be perfectl}' free from care ; for, be assured, there is 
 no care on this boat for anybody but the dragoman. 
 He is all in all — the factotum. lie is our servant, 
 our master, our guide, interpreter — ever}- thing. He 
 supplies all our wants, and we have nothing in the 
 world to do Init to cat, drink, and be merry. Wo 
 smoke our pipes, drink our coffee, read our books — 
 sometimes — write when we feel like it, sing, talk, and 
 tell yarns with the utmost freedom, dress or not 
 dress just as suits our tastes, and, in fact, do as wo 
 list, without regard to the prescribed rules of civil- 
 
222 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ized society. I must confess to a sort of feeling of 
 pity for you poor fellows at home who are compelled 
 to dress up and wear blacked boots and two-story 
 hats every day, starched and ironed shirts, and care- 
 fully-tied cravats. In short, you are bound down 
 and hedged about with the most oppressive laws of 
 utter respectability, while we in Egypt kick up our 
 heels with impunity, and snap our fingers at society 
 and its laws. Glorious is life upon the Nile ! But 
 the best of our sport consists in shooting game. We 
 roam the fields when we please, and shed streams of 
 blood. Game is so plenty — geese, ducks, pigeons, 
 pelicans, and crocodiles, the latter of which nobody 
 kills, although everybody tries to kill — when they see 
 them. We spend much time on the shore, for when 
 the sailors are dragging the boat, which is more than 
 half the time, we traverse the rich fields, and lounge 
 in the villages, which are as plenty in Egypt as 
 blackberries in North Carolina. Mr. Smith and 
 your correspondent are almost inseparable com- 
 panions. We talk together, walk together, and 
 shoot together. Smith is not what would be called 
 in Kentucky a good marksman. He will shoot at 
 any thing, from a sparrow to a crocodile, but rarely 
 gets any thing. While some of our party think 
 little of bringing down a dozen pigeons at one shot, 
 Smith is well pleased if he can bring down one 
 pigeon in a dozen shots. Pigeons are here by the 
 million. The chief feature in all the villages is the 
 pigeon-houses. They tower much higher than the 
 dwellings, and are invariably built with more taste 
 
iial's travels. 223 
 
 (if au Egj'ptian can be said to have any taste) than 
 the huts inhabited by the people — or two-legged 
 creatures who answer the place of people. Smith 
 loves to go into these villages, and to talk or try to 
 talk to these naked and half-naked devils, who are 
 to be found lounging and smoking by the hundred 
 in every town. He invariabl}^ takes advantage of 
 them and asks for " backsheesh" before their inordi- 
 nate laziness will permit them to get the word out. 
 He thus forestalls them, and saves his coppers. A 
 shrewd man is Smith. Perhaps you think I slight 
 the rest of my fellow-passengers by saying nothing 
 about them, and speaking altogether of Smith. The 
 fact is, Smith is the only original character we have 
 in the party, and the only man in whom I feel a deep 
 interest. True, Absalom Jones is a " man of parts," 
 but then he is not like Smith. I remember one day 
 our boat arrived at Ossiout, once the capital of Upper 
 Egypt, and one of the largest cities in the country. 
 The town lies back perhaps a mile and a half from 
 the river. As we were to lie there a few hours to 
 give our crew a chance to have a fresh supply of 
 bread baked. Smith and myself mounted donkeys 
 and set oli' in a gallop for the bazaars. On the way 
 we came up with a crowd of Egyptians in a muss. 
 A fight seemed inevitable. By the time we got into 
 the crowd it had actually commenced. Five stal- 
 wart, half-naked, yellow-skinned dogs were pitching 
 into one old man, and giving him particular thun- 
 der. Without waiting a moment, Smith plunged 
 into the thickest of the fight, and fell to right and 
 
224 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 left with liis stick in behalf of the weaker party. I 
 was somewhat alarmed, for I thought the villains 
 (either of whom could have demolished their assail- 
 ant with one blow) seemed disposed to show fight. 
 Smith heeded them not, however, but laid his stick 
 unmercifully on their heads and bare shoulders until 
 the whole five broke and precipitately fled, while 
 the rescued old man ran as fast in an opposite direc- 
 tion. A Frank (a term for Europeans and Ameri- 
 cans) can knock an Arab down with impunity, (un- 
 less it be a wild Bedouin of the desert,) and fear no 
 evil, especially if he have a gold band on his cap, as 
 Smith had. 
 
 I would give you a paragraph or two descriptive 
 of the scenery along the Nile, if there were not 
 already scores of books devoted to this especial 
 thing. Travellers generally think themselves bound 
 to describe scenery — but I don't. One feature, how- 
 ever, strikes me forcibly. It is the total absence of 
 timber, or, at least, any thing like wild timber. The 
 palm is almost the only kind of tree to be met with, 
 and it is only cultivated for its fruit — the date. A 
 little accident called my attention more particularly 
 to this. It was the want of a ramrod. ISTot a stick, 
 or a limb, or a sprig, or a sprout have we been able 
 to find in Egypt long enough or straight enough to 
 make a ramrod even for a short-barrelled fowliDg- 
 piece. We had not been three days out from Cairo, 
 when my friend Smith shot away his ramrod. He 
 then used mine until two days afterward he dropped 
 it overboard, and we were both left unable to load 
 
iial's travels. 225 
 
 our guns, and would liavc continued so but for ii 
 small walking-cane which ni}^ good friend Tummy 
 Robinson gave me in London. Tliat little walking- 
 cane has enabled us to destroy much game. 
 
 Many little incidents have occurred along the 
 way that would be quite amusing if I could do them 
 justice in the telling. One deliciously pleasant 
 evening I remember, not many days ago, when our 
 boat was sailing gently before a quiet breeze, I was 
 lounging on the "sofa," puffing my chibouk, and 
 thinking of dear ones far away ; Smith was sitting 
 by, cleaning his gun, and boasting of the execution 
 he meant to do on the morrow ; Jones was reading 
 Prime's travels, and Brown was writing up his 
 journal. The ladies, Mrs. Smith and Miss Kissiah 
 Jones, were in their cabin in the arms of Morpheus, 
 for all we knew. Perhaps it will not be out of 
 place for me to say here that Miss Kissiah is as nice 
 a young lady as you would wish to see — neat as a 
 pin, and lovely enough to be just the sort of com- 
 pany one would love to have on the Nile. As for 
 Mrs. Smith, she is inienseli/ nice, and as particular in 
 all things as ladies ever get to be. The sight of a 
 cockroach would frighten her, while that horrible 
 insect known in America as a bedbug would, I 
 think, almost drive her into spasms. But as I was 
 saying above, on that delicious evening when we 
 were all lounging and smoking and reading and 
 writing, suddenly we heard in the ladies' cabin 
 something like a faint scream, then a low murmur- 
 
226 hal's teavels. 
 
 ing of voices, and then a faint and prolonged "0!" 
 like some one giving up in despair. Smith recog- 
 nized the voice, and rushed in. Mrs. S. had gone 
 off into something like a swoon, while Miss Kissiah 
 stood by, pale and trembling, holding something 
 between her thumb and finger wrapped up in a 
 piece of paper. A tumbler of water brought the 
 madam to her senses, and an explanation followed. 
 Mrs. S. had been prying into the secret recesses 
 and folds of her garments, and had scared up an 
 animal, the precise species of which she did not 
 know, but which she had awful suspicions was the 
 very thing she above all others desired it should not 
 be. Miss Kissiah held the frightful beast tightly in 
 the paper between her fingers. It was brought out 
 for us all to examine. We had no difliculty in de- 
 ciding that it was indeed the very thing itself that 
 
 Mrs. S. had feared it was — to wit, a shall I 
 
 write it ? — a but it is suflicient to say that it 
 
 was a lineal descendant of the third plague of 
 Egypt. A general examination followed this dis- 
 covery, which turned up many more of the same 
 sort. Mrs. Smith did not make her appearance at 
 the head of the tea-table that evening. She has lost 
 her buoyancy of spirits, and her color is fast fading. 
 She sighs for a return to civilization. Smith deeply 
 sympathizes with her, and, I regret to say, is not 
 the man he was. Miss Kissiah takes the unfortunate 
 discovery more philosophically, and vows heroically 
 to murder every marauding she catches. This 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 227 
 
 species of insect abounds plentifully in Egypt, and 
 he who enjoys the pleasures of Nile travelling must 
 expect to suiFer its ills. 
 
 If I could do it, I would like to give you some 
 idea of a Mohammedan religious festival — but I 
 can't. We stopped one day at the city of Girgeh, 
 where a fifteen days' festival was going on, and it 
 was a little ahead of any thing I ever saw. As 
 soon as the boat landed we all hastened up into the 
 city, if an immense collection of mud-pens covered 
 with mats and corn-stalks can be called a city. 
 The streets (if little, narrow, filthy, crooked lanes 
 can be called streets) were crowded with an im- 
 mense herd of creatures very much resembling men 
 and women, cutting up all sorts of monkey-shines, 
 some singing, some beating instruments resembling 
 tambourines, others tapping rude drums, and others 
 snapping their fingers and keeping time by wag- 
 ging their heads in the most grotesque manner. 
 In an open space near the river-bank stood a tall 
 pole with a rag on it, intended for a banner. In a 
 circle around this pole sat more than a hundred 
 men, mostly old and grayheaded. Within the 
 circle sat many more, all with their shoes oft'. 
 Some were swaying their bodies, and chanting 
 "Allah-wa, Allah-w^a," while others were talking 
 vociferously and making furious gestures. Near 
 this circle was another standing circle of Dervishes, 
 going through just such ridiculous contortions and 
 bowlings as we had witnessed in Cairo. In the 
 court of a mosque hard by was another just such a 
 
228 hal's travels. 
 
 crowd. We went into tlie mosque, followed by 
 about a hundred of the naked and filthy natives, 
 for it is impossible for a "how^adji" (a gentleman) to 
 walk in one of these towns without having a bevy 
 of these animals at his heels, and if he does not 
 carry a stick or a cowhide or some other defensive 
 weapon to beat them off, they become oppressively 
 familiar. As we entered the court of the mosque 
 the janizary who guarded the entrance fell upon 
 the crowd at our heels with a huge whip, and beat 
 some of them unmercifully. Such a yelling and 
 scampering I never saw before. The janizary then 
 turned tons and demanded "backsheesh" for the 
 service he had rendered us. Since then we have 
 done our own fighting and saved the backsheesh. 
 This was a fair as well as a religious festival. Tents 
 and temporary huts of corn-stalks occupied every 
 available space, where itinerant merchants were 
 vending the goods, wares, and vegetables peculiar 
 to the country. On our way back to the boats we 
 were set upon by a horde of dancing-girls, dressed 
 in the most gaudy and fantastic style, the fancy 
 articles being principally worn upon the head, neck 
 and arms, while the remaining portion of the per- 
 son can hardly be said to have been dressed at all. 
 I saw two whose only articles of dress were beads 
 and head ornaments. These nymphs occupied a 
 separate group of corn-stalk huts. "We almost had 
 to fight our w^ay through them. Some of them had 
 rather good-looking faces ; but I have never yet 
 seen a really handsome Egyptian woman. They 
 
iial's travels. 229 
 
 paint a black streak around their ej-es, which they 
 imagine adds greatly to their beauty. We finally 
 fought our way through the "backsheesli"-clamoring 
 "fair ones," got to our boats, and went on our way 
 rejoicing. 
 
 My friend Smith is lame to-day. Has been hob- 
 bling about two or three days in the most restless 
 and impatient manner, cursing because he has not 
 been able to go ashore shooting. His lameness was 
 brought about in rather an amusing manner. It 
 was thus : A couple of our sailors had a falling out 
 a few nights ago, and finally came to blows. It 
 was dark on deck, and from the noise and confusion 
 which reigned, you would have thought that there 
 were at least fifty in the fight. Not only the two 
 belligerents were yelling and cursing at the top of 
 their voices, but the whole thirteen were making 
 their lungs do service in the most high-pressure 
 style. The ladies became frightened, not knowing 
 but a band of roving Bedouins had attacked the crew. 
 Smith rushed out, and, as is his manner, pitched 
 into the midst of the fight — for Smith is an impetu- 
 ous man — and the first thing he knew he didn't 
 know much of any thing. On the front part of the 
 deck near the kitchen there is a hatchway, leading 
 of course down into the hold of the boat. We call 
 it the "goat-hole," because in there we keep our 
 mutton and our milk-goat. In the melee Smith 
 disappeared into tliis "goat-hole," and being some- 
 what stunned, he lay there until tlie fight was over, 
 when his head shot up — his iron-gray liair bristling 
 
230 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 out like spikes — ^presenting the most ghostlike ap- 
 pearance that 1 have seen on the Nile. Pale, 
 wounded, bloody, and immeasurably astounded, 
 with his bald head peering up from the dark abyss 
 below, he presented a picture, as revealed by the 
 one dim candle which had been brought to the 
 scene, that would have made the fortune of any 
 comic painter in the world could he have copied it 
 correctly. We lifted the old gentleman out, bore 
 him into the cabin, staunched his bleeding nose, ad- 
 ministered a dose of brandy, all of which restored 
 him to himself, when he discovered that a piece of 
 skin about the size of a dollar was missing from the 
 cap of his right knee. Smith has not hunted ducks, 
 geese, or pigeons since. Thinks he will be able to 
 be out to-morrow. I hope so, for we shall probably 
 arrive at Thebes to-morrow. 
 
 "We have met many boats returning from the up- 
 country during our voyage, two with American 
 colors, and several with French and English. We 
 make it a rule to exchange salutes with all we meet. 
 A day or two ago we met a boat gliding down with 
 an immense English flag and an extensive streamer 
 floating in the breeze. "We fired our guns as usual, 
 and waited and listened, but no response came. 
 We were evidently " cut." Smith grew farious — 
 walked the deck, gnashed his teeth, and foamed at 
 the mouth. Wanted to tack about and give chase, 
 and vowed by all that was sacred that he would give 
 them a few guns loaded with something more than 
 powder. Didn't care, he said, as far as he was 
 
iial's travels. 231 
 
 individually concerned, but the American flag had 
 been insulted, and he was for wiping out the stain 
 then and there. I have no doubt, if he had met 
 a Britisher about that time, something would have 
 happened. Smith is n't afraid. 'We finally got him 
 cooled down by persuading him that the English- 
 men had been up the country for some time, and 
 had in all probability run out of powder. 
 
 Yesterday we passed Gheneh, the capital of 
 Upper Egypt, celebrated only as being the place 
 where the governor lives, and for the manufacture 
 of pottery. Before our boat approached within 
 three miles of the town, we were met by a troop of 
 donkey-boys, soliciting the privilege of giving us a 
 ride up to the city. As our boat was going very 
 slowly — the sailors were towing, there being no 
 wind — we accepted the invitation, and once more 
 found ourselves in the saddle scouring away across 
 the sand}^ plain towards Gheneh, with half-a-dozen 
 black Nubians yelling at our heels, beating the 
 donkeys whenever they could get within striking 
 distance of them. "We dashed into the cit}^ at furi- 
 ous speed, kicking up a tremendous dust as we 
 went, jostling and discomposing many a pious 
 Mussulman, and knocking the long-stemmed pipes 
 from the mouths of not a few of the leather-headed 
 Arabs as they thronged the narrow lanes. We 
 rushed through the bazaars, and then into the out- 
 skirts, and in less than two hours I think we had 
 explored the town thoroughly, threading all the 
 streets and lanes in a lope, to the great astonish- 
 
232 hal's travels. 
 
 ment of, and not without serious danger to the 
 frightened natives. We found that about every 
 other house was either a manufactory of, or a place 
 for the sale of pottery. "We were assailed again by 
 the fancy girls, who actually blocked up the passage 
 and demanded "backsheesh" in tones of appalling 
 shrillness, A handsome one — that is, a fat one, for 
 "fat" and "beautiful" are synonymous terms in 
 this country — seized the donkey of my good friend 
 Smith by the bridle, and held on so tenaciously that 
 Smith surrendered, and actually gave her a piastre. 
 If it had been a man or a boy, he would have felt 
 the weight of Smith's stick, but Smith is a gallant 
 man. After " doing" the town, and laying in a 
 fresh stock of tobacco, we departed to our boats, to 
 the no small delight of the quiet citizens. It was 
 quite a treat to get on the back of a donkey once 
 more, and we enjoyed it hugely. Riding a good 
 donkey is the very poetry of motion. 
 
 A rather laughable incident occurred on board 
 our boat to-day. While we were all taking our 
 after-dinner smoke and siesta, I was aroused by 
 hearing a very loud quarrel begin between Saide 
 Demshiri, our captain, and old Hassan, the helms- 
 man. I went out just in time to see Hassan ap- 
 proach Saide and give him a box upon the cheek. 
 JSTow Captain Saide is a young man, twenty-two or 
 twenty-three years old perhaps, while Hassan is a 
 venerable old patriarch, M'ho was a helmsman upon 
 the I^ile before the captain Avas born. Saide being 
 young and athletic, I expected to see him demolish 
 
hal's travels. 233 
 
 old Hassan iustauter, which he was just preparing 
 to do when the sailors interfered. When Saide 
 found that he could not get hold of the old fellow, 
 he was, I think, the most enraged and furious in- 
 dividual I ever saw. Captain Smith's rage when 
 the English boat refused to respond to our salute, 
 was as child's-play compared to Captain Saide's de- 
 monstrations. His eyes glared like those of a tom- 
 cat in a dark cellar. He foamed at the mouth like 
 a hyena. He tore his shirt (the only garment he 
 had on) from the bosom clear out to the tail ; 
 snatched off his turban and beat the ground with it, 
 leaving his closely shaven head (all Egyptians shave 
 their heads) bared to the burning sun. Took up. 
 handfuls of sand and threw it in the air ; covered 
 his head with dirt ; snorted, roared, threw himself 
 on the ground, and kicked like a spanked child. 
 Under the command of Hassan, the sailors shoved 
 off the boat, and we left Captain Saide alone in his 
 glory, spread out like a huge bull-frog, with his face 
 in the sand. Our dragoman was on the Hiawatha, 
 a mile or two ahead, at the time of this occurrence. 
 His presence Avould have prevented it. He Avill 
 rejoin us to-night. Captain Saide overtook us two 
 hours after we left him, but he is still sullen. I 
 think his chances for a well pair of feet to-morrow 
 are slim. Achmet is not afraid to resort to the bas- 
 tinado. 
 
 This is our twentieth day on the Nile. We are 
 now nearins: Thebes and Luxor. Have had no 
 wind for several days to do any good, but we 
 
234 hal's travels. 
 
 will get to Thebes early to-morrow, wind or no 
 wind. 
 
 We have spent no time sight-seeing during our 
 upward trip, but shall devote some five or six days 
 visiting antiquities on our return. It will require 
 five or six days to explore the great ruins here. 
 Have not determined yet whether we will go farther 
 up the river or not. Guess not, as we are anxious 
 to get into Palestine by the middle of March. 
 
 Nile-travelling agrees with me well. The flesh- 
 pots of Egypt have had a wonderful efieet. I am 
 as fat as a bear, and the pelting African sun has 
 burnt my face as brown as an Arab's. Farewell. 
 
 Hal. 
 
II A L ' S TRAVELS. 235 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 EGYPT — THEBES. 
 
 My last letter was closed, I think, on the night 
 of the 14th inst, while the "Hiawatha" and "Min- 
 nehaha" were lying tied up to the bank of the river 
 some five or six miles below here. We shoved oft' 
 bright and early on the following morning, and 
 moved towards Thebes, our hearts beating high 
 with the hope of soon looking upon the remains of 
 what was once, perhaps, the greatest city the world 
 ever saw — and the oldest, for it was doubtless one 
 of the first cities built after the flood. We were all 
 out on deck that morning much earlier than usual, 
 stretching our necks to catch a sight of the great 
 portico of Luxor. Mrs. Smith was up before the 
 sun, and for the first time in many months — perhaps 
 years — saw that glorious luminary make his per- 
 sonal appearance above the eastern horizon. Miss 
 Kissiah was also on the alert. These two ladies were 
 not on deck, but at their little cabin-windows, gazing 
 in a Theban direction for a glimpse of the famed 
 towers of Karnak. While there they saw our favorite 
 and only cat — the yellow cat which had been the 
 faithful companion of our voyage, and general pet 
 
236 hal's travels. 
 
 of the party — they saw this cat thrown with violence 
 far out into the stream. This horrible catastrophe 
 brought forth a scream from Mrs. Smith, and Miss 
 Kissiah followed her example. But screaming did no 
 good : Puss had sunk to rise no more. This occur- 
 rence caused, as well it might, no small stir on 
 board the "Minnehaha." The ladies had seen the 
 cat thrown, but had not seen the wicked hand that 
 did the deed. Inquiry was immediately set on foot, 
 but nobody seemed to know who the guilty one was. 
 Suspicion fell upon Mohammed, the black Kubian 
 cook. Mohammed denied the charge with great 
 earnestness, and to make his innocence appear more 
 clear, he swore that there had not been' a cat nor 
 the shadow of a cat on the boat for two days ; that 
 he had seen the cat with his own eyes jump over- 
 board two days before after a fish, when she was 
 immediately seized and devoured by a ravenous 
 crocodile. "We all knew that Mohammed was lying 
 like an Arab, but his cool earnestness was refresh- 
 ing. Witnesses were then called, when Captain 
 Saide testified that he had seen Mohammed throw 
 Puss over. But this was nothing. It requires two 
 witnesses to establish guilt in this country. Mo- 
 hammed was on the point of getting oflE* clear, when 
 Abdallah, our favorite oarsman, came forward and 
 substantiated the testimony of the captain. Thus 
 cornered, Mohammed owned up, but justified the 
 act by asserting that the cat had that very morning 
 stolen and eaten a chicken and two pigeons which 
 he was preparing for breakfast. He was dismissed 
 
hal's travels. 237 
 
 for the time, but witli tlie assurance of the drago- 
 man that a settlement would be entered into at 
 Thebes. 
 
 Mrs. Smith was greatly troubled at the loss of 
 this cat, and so was Miss Kissiah ; not onl}^ on ac- 
 count of their fondness for Puss, but tliey were 
 superstitious. They fully believed that some evil 
 would befall some if not all of the party. Mrs. S. 
 had never known it to fail, that when a cat was 
 murdered, some misfortune followed soon after, and 
 Miss Kissiah had always "heard" the same thing. 
 Thc}^ have been in trouble ever since. 
 
 Early in the day the great ruins loomed up before 
 us. Our boats were moored under the bank of the 
 river immediately in front of the porch of the grand 
 Temple of Luxor. AVith impatience, we hurried 
 on shore in the very hottest part of the day, (and hot 
 weather means something in Southern Egypt,) to 
 view the mighty columns and ponderous towers. 
 Our wonder and admii'ation were great. We looked 
 upon the pile before us, and thought of Rome as a 
 little thing. We looked up at the tall obelisk and 
 the three colossal statues that stand at the entrance 
 to the Temple, and wondered what kind of ma- 
 chinery could have been used to' place them there. 
 We walked around and through and upon this 
 vast structure, nor heeded the burning sun, so great 
 was our enthusiasm. Perhaps you have read, but 
 have forgotten when and where, of a temple so 
 large that a populous village now stands in and 
 upon it. It is the Temple of Luxor. We climbed 
 
238 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 up an immense tower which, stands at one of the 
 gateways, by what had once been a flight of granite 
 steps, but which are steps no longer, the foot of man 
 and time having Avorn them away. Standing up 
 there we had a tine view of the surrounding plains, 
 the frowning walls of Karnak, two miles distant, and 
 the two celebrated colossal statues, Memnon and 
 his nameless companion, standing away across the 
 river. In descending from this tower, your corre- 
 spondent slipped and fell, and — got up again — but 
 which fall came well-nigh putting a period to his 
 sight-seeing and donkey-riding in Egypt. The ac- 
 cident was not serious, however, a pair of skinned 
 elbows and a few bruises being the extent. A half 
 day's Ij'ing up, and all was right, even to the ability 
 to ride a donkey at full sjDced. A few minutes 
 after this accident, and Mrs. Smith had also to be 
 borne to the boat in a fainting condition, something 
 like a sun-stroke having overpowered her. A little 
 brandy and water restored us both in due time. 
 She was in favor of having poor Mohammed imme- 
 diatel}' bastinadoed, being more than ever convinced 
 that the drowning of the cat had caused the acci- 
 dents, and further predicted that misfortumes would 
 continue to follow the party ; and then she quoted 
 the "Hiawathian" lines which run somewhat thus: 
 
 "Never jumps a sheep tlicat's frightened 
 Over any fence whatever, 
 Over wall, or fence, or timber, 
 But a second follows after. 
 And a third upon the second, 
 
iial's travels. 239 
 
 And a fourth, and fifth, and so on, 
 First, a sheep, and then a dozen. 
 Till they all, in quick succession, 
 One by one have got clear over. 
 So misfortunes, almost always. 
 Follow after one another. 
 Seem to watch each other, always, 
 When they see the tail uplifted, 
 In the air the tail uplifted ; 
 As the sorrow leapeth over, 
 So they follow, thicker, faster. 
 Till the air of earth seems darkened, 
 "With the tails of sad misfortunes." 
 
 I was out very early the next morning. . I had 
 read and heard of the ancient musical propensi- 
 ties of the great statue of Memnon, (and who has 
 not ?) which it is said in ancient times gave forth 
 musical sounds each morning at the rising of the 
 sun. I took a position where I could see the sta- 
 tue and listen, when, as the sun rose and kissed 
 his time-honored and cold, wrinkled brow, judge 
 of my surprise when I heard sounds, not truly mu- 
 sical, but sad and mournful, come floating across 
 the plains and the river, and dying away in the 
 tumult of the mud village that lay behind me. I 
 had thought that Memnon had long since ceased 
 to be musical, and idle curiosity alone had prompted 
 me to listen, not that I expected to hear any sound 
 whatever. My delight was equal to my astonish- 
 ment when I heard the startling notes. I hurried 
 to the boat with wide-stretched eyes and palpitat- 
 ing heart, to inform my friends and give them a 
 chance to witness the wonderful performance. Smith 
 
240 iial's travels. 
 
 was tlie first man out, and lieard the sounds dis- 
 tinctly ; but a moment after, lie pointed out a wheel 
 on the opposite side of the river, slowly revolving 
 to raise water for irrigation, being turned by one 
 solitary ox. It was making a horrible creaking 
 noise. I caved at once. That was the music which 
 had so excited me. Smith had the laugh on me all 
 that day. Old Memuon sat sublimely silent on his 
 cold, stony throne, as he has done for thousands of 
 years. 
 
 After breakfast wc all gathered together from 
 both boats, crossed the river, and set out for the 
 mountain to see the " Tombs of the Kings." A 
 crowd of donkeys awaited us, (donkeys wait for you 
 everywhere in Egypt,) and I saw at a glance that we 
 should have a seufEe for it. There was just a dozen 
 of us, and about two dozen donkeys, and each don- 
 key-boy would do his level best to out-bully his 
 competitor, and get himself and donkey hired. It 
 is a fearful thing to fall into the hands of donkey- 
 boys, for if you do not beat them off, which is next 
 to an impossibility, they will almost tear you limb 
 from limb. When our boat landed I sprang upon 
 the shore, and fell immediately into the hands of 
 Mohammed Ali and Hassan Asoof. They were stal- 
 wart fellows, each large enough to carry his diminu- 
 tive donkey on his own shoulder. Mohammed Ali 
 swore that he had the best donkey in Thebes, and 
 that Hassan and his donkey were both humbugs ; 
 that his own donkey could go like a horse. Hassan 
 retorted the best he could, and said that his donkey 
 
hal's travels. 241 
 
 could not only go like a horse, but could outrun a 
 jackal. I love a fleet donkey, and was therefore 
 about to mount Ilassan's, when Mohammed Ali re- 
 turned to the charge, and swore by Allah (he was a 
 profane dog) that his donkey could be properly com- 
 pared to nothing but a steamboat. This decided 
 me, and I mounted the donkey of Mohammed Ali. 
 During the quarrel and scuffle they had each held 
 me by an arm, and had come near pulling them out 
 of their sockets. I did not have time to notice the 
 troubles of my companions, but from the noise kept 
 up, they must have fared worse than I did. We 
 were all at length in the saddle, and fleeing across the 
 broad fields toward the mountain where the kings 
 of Egypt have slept in profound repose for more 
 than thirty centuries ; old Achmet, the guide, lead- 
 ing the van, mounted on a donkey which, had it 
 been weighed in the balance with him, would have 
 been found wanting. My own donke}-, which Mo- 
 hammed Ali had said so much resembled a steam- 
 boat, was the most miserable thing I ever had backed 
 in Eg3'pt, but little larger and much less nimble 
 than our milk-goat. I complained of the cheat, but 
 Mohammed Ali swore more than a hundred times 
 that it was the best donkey in Thebes, and more 
 like a steamboat than any thing else. But all the 
 beating that Mohammed could bestow could not get 
 him into a gallop. He promised faithfully, how- 
 ever, that on the next day he would furnish me a 
 donkey three times the size, and one that could run 
 like the wind. 
 
242 hal's travels. 
 
 It was about two or three hours' ride to the Tombs. 
 In the way, we passed the ruins of the Temple of 
 Kooneh, which, like that of Luxor, was built of 
 enormous stones, every one of which, too, was 
 covered with hieroglyphics, and images of men, wo- 
 men, etc. It was, however, comparatively a small 
 temple. "We spent an hour examining it, by which 
 time the heat of the day had fully come upon us. 
 We left the temple, and wound our way up a dreary 
 gorge of the mountain, while the rays of the sun 
 seemed to come down a near way upon our de- 
 voted heads. It was, indeed, a pleasant thing to sit 
 down in the shadow of a great rock in such a place 
 and on such a day. 
 
 The first tomb we entered is the greatest that has 
 ever been discovered in Egypt. It is called " Bel- 
 zoni's Tomb," because it was discovered and opened 
 by a man of that name. It is entered by a broad 
 descending passage, which leads into a number of 
 large and elegantly sculptured and painted cham- 
 bers, all hewn out in the solid stone mountain, and 
 decorated with a great number of elegantly wrought 
 columns which support the roof. The paintings and 
 sculptures represent all the occupations of life, as 
 they were carried on three thousand years ago. 
 There has been but little change since. The dress 
 of the laboring people was the same then as now, 
 being nothing but a simple piece of cloth around 
 the waist, extending about half-way down to the 
 knees ; the rest of the body is naked. Boats were 
 rowed and towed upon the Nile then just as they 
 
iial's travels. 243 
 
 are yet. Water was carried iu goat-skins, and the 
 same water-pots were used. In fact, there is no 
 change or improvement in any thing that I can see 
 for all that time. This will sound strange to Ameri- 
 can ears, where changes are occurring and improve- 
 ments being made almost daily. 
 
 Besides Belzoni's, we went into many other large 
 tombs, all filled with paintings and hieroglyphics 
 like the first. To attempt a description of any of 
 tliom would be prosy. These are the tombs in which 
 man}' of the kings of Egypt were laid, but their 
 mummied bodies have been removed, and now grace 
 or disgrace many of the museums of Europe. . We 
 eat down in the cool shady entrance of a tomb, took 
 lunch, smoked our pipes, and when the cool of the 
 evening approached, wended our way towards the 
 boats. 
 
 In returning, another accident occurred, which 
 again brought up the story of the murdered cat, and 
 confirmed the superstition of Mrs. Smith. My good 
 friend Smith was again the victim. Brown and my- 
 self seeing what appeared to be a freshly-opened 
 tomb up the side of the mountain, dismounted and 
 climbed up to it, leaving our donkeys standing in 
 the road. Brown's was a licentious donke}^ and 
 was no sooner left to himself than he pitched into 
 the donkey of Mr. Smith, biting, squealing, pawing, 
 and snorting; Smith's donkey resented the attack 
 in such a way as to lay his rider flat on his back on 
 the hard stony road. Poor Smith has been grunting 
 ever since, lie refused to pay the donke^^-boy the 
 
244 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 usual "backsheesh," (present,) because bis donkey 
 threw him off. Smith is a shrewd man, and never 
 will pay the "backsheesh" unless his donkey suits 
 him — and I have never known him to have a don- 
 key that suited him yet. 
 
 The next day we crossed the river again, and 
 went into a great many other tombs. "We entered 
 one into which we had to crawl like lizards, so 
 small was the opening. It consisted of six cham- 
 bers, and contained, I would think, not less than a 
 thousand mummies. I walked upon them, and 
 heard the bones of some crush under my feet. It 
 was strange to see bodies so many thousands of 
 years old wrapped in cloth and undecayed as they 
 were left by their friends. I sat down upon the 
 breast of one big old fellow, and unwound the cloth 
 from the feet of a smaller one, a piece of which I 
 brought away to carry home with me. Also took 
 one of their hands for the inspection of some of 
 mj^ home friends. Smith would not go into this 
 abode of the dead, but stood at the door trembling, 
 while the rest of us left him alone. Smith is not 
 afraid of a living man, but has a mortal dread of 
 entering a tomb tenanted by dead bodies. 
 
 Coming out of this tomb, we descended to the 
 Memnonium, or ruins of the Temple of Memnon. 
 This was grand indeed. Its columns were nume- 
 rous and immense. Every stone inside and outside 
 of this immense structure is covered with hiero- 
 glyphics. I do not know how to give you an idea 
 of the magnitude of an Egyptian temple. The 
 
ual's travels. 245 
 
 stones arc so large that von wonder how they were 
 ever hoisted to their places. Every thing yon sec 
 is on such a scale that you are struck with amaze- 
 ment. In the court of this temple lies a hroken 
 colossal statue of Eameses, so large that when you 
 see it, you will give up the effort to comprehend its 
 greatness. To say that it is the largest statue in 
 the world, will give you no idea of it. It is of 
 granite. It is thrown down and broken ; thought 
 to have been done by the Persian conquerors of 
 Egypt. What means were used to break it, is a 
 mystery, for gunpowder was unknown in those 
 days. And if the breaking of it be a mystery, 
 how much greater is the mystery as to how it was 
 brought and placed in the court of the temple ! for 
 it was certainly brought from a great distance, as 
 there is no red granite in this neighborhood. I 
 suppose it must be the largest block of hewn stone 
 in the world. It weighs, according to Murray, 
 more than eight hundred and eighii/seven tons ! 
 
 Leaving the Memnonium, we went to see two 
 great statues which stand in the plain below — 
 Memnon and his companion. Old Memnon was 
 still silent, and gazed as coldly and steadily towards 
 the east as he did three thousand years ago. He 
 heeds not the rising of the sun, as he did in days 
 of yore; at least, he gives forth no musical sounds 
 now, as then. These statues stand, or rather sit, in 
 a cultivated plain — wheat growing luxuriantly all 
 around them, with scarcely any traces of the great 
 city in tlie midst of which they once sat. Their 
 
24:6 HAL'S TEAVELS. 
 
 height I do not know. They are perhaps as high 
 as any house in Huntsville, although in a sitting 
 posture ! After viewing these statues, we returned 
 to our hoats, being saluted by the way by all the 
 laborers in the jB.elds, with, "Backsheesh, howadji !" 
 a salutation that I have grown sick of hearing. 
 
 The Egyptians are all beggars. The first word 
 the children learn is "backsheesh," and they never 
 see a "howadji" that they do not scream it out. 
 If they do you a favor of any kind, they of course 
 expect "backsheesh;" and if you do them a favor, 
 they expect the same thing. So it is "backsheesh" 
 first, last, and all the time. They are all poor 
 devils, seldom possessing more than the cotton 
 shirt or breech-clout which hides their nakedness. 
 
 Another day has now dawned. Ho for Karnak, 
 the wonder of the world ! Here are our donkeys, 
 waiting for us. We mount, and awa}^ I had for- 
 gotten to mention that Mrs. Smith is no longer 
 able to ride a donkey. She has now to be carried in a 
 chair, with a pole strapped to each side, on the 
 shoulders of four Arabs. She enjoys this new 
 mode of locomotion hugely. But here we are, at 
 Karnak. I look up at the great propylon, and feel 
 a dizzy sensation. Enter the court of the temple, 
 and my heart leaps with astonishment. Look up 
 at the enormous columns, and the great stones on 
 top of them, and am sick with wonder. "What 
 grandeur ! I was not prepared for it, although 
 expecting to see the most ponderous ruins in the 
 world. It is too much for me. Here are in one 
 
ual's travels. 247 
 
 Juill one hundred, and twenty-six columns, each 
 thirty-six feet in circumference, with capitals almost 
 double the size, and all so elaborately carved ! And 
 this is only one hall ! There are man}-, many others. 
 This temple is said to have covered seventy-five 
 acres of ^'ound ! There were four gateways lead- 
 ing into it, each of which was approached by long 
 avenues of Sphynxes. One of these avenues was 
 two miles long, and connected the two temples of 
 Ivarnak and Luxor. The Sphynxes are nearly all 
 thrown down and broken, and thousands of them 
 buried beneath the soil. Shall I attempt a descrip- 
 tion of this temple ? Ko. It would fill a book. 
 If I desired to be exceedingly prosy, and to bore 
 3'ou unmercifully, I would copy a few pages from 
 Murray's hand-book, but as I feel kindly towards 
 you, I shall not do it. Every stone in and about the 
 temple (and there are enough to build a city) is 
 completely covered with strange figures and inscrip- 
 tions. There are so many of them that it is said 
 they have never even been counted ! In the midst 
 of this ruin rise two granite obelisks, one ninety- 
 two feet high, and eight feet square at the base, be- 
 sides the portion that is buried in the ground ! 
 They are covered with hieroglyphics, cut about 
 three inches deep, and as well defined as if they 
 had been cut but yesterday. Hundreds of broken 
 statues, of every size and description, are lying in 
 and around this great pile. Some of the paintings 
 on the stones of the temple look bright and fresh, 
 as if recently done. Hero arc some stones I have 
 
248 hal's travels. 
 
 measured : tliey are tliirty-six feet long, and five feet 
 square. They formed a gateway, which is now 
 nearly all thrown down. 
 
 "When we look at these ruins, how small all others 
 seem to us ! "We think of the many broken columns 
 we saw lying about at Rome as small things indeed. 
 We have never seen a broken column in Egypt. 
 They were not made to be broken. "We see many 
 lying prostrate, but not broken ! They laugh at 
 the tooth of time, and even earthquakes fail to 
 rend them. But for the vandal hand of man, 
 Karnak would have stood whole and entire as long 
 as time. But alas for destructive man ! The grace 
 and comeliness of Karnak are gone. But it is only 
 the fulfilment of prophecy. The Prophets Jere- 
 miah, Ezekiel, and l!^ahum, all prophesied the 
 destruction of Thebes, (or "Ko," as it was some- 
 times called.) Like the other great cities of Egypt, 
 it has fallen before the wrath of God ! "We spend 
 the day among these ruins, and return to the boats. 
 
 The next day was Sunday. Some of us went 
 again to Karnak, and some didn't. In the evening 
 we had religious service, as our custom is, on board 
 the " Minnehaha." 
 
 Monday we crossed the river again to visit the 
 ruined temple and palace of — of — but the name 
 would be too hard to write, even if I could remem- 
 ber it. I will only say that it was an immense pile 
 of stones and columns, and had once been a build- 
 ing superior to any thing I had seen out of Egypt. 
 It dates back as far as the rest of the ruins I had 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 249 
 
 seen. It was partly built by Ramescs m. The 
 walls are mostly covered with scenes in the life of 
 that kins;. After seeins; this we returned to the 
 neighborhood of the tombs, where the work of re- 
 surrection is still going on. New tombs are often 
 found and opened. The whole side of the moun- 
 tain which overlooks the plain of Thebes is like a 
 honeycomb, so numerous are the gaping tombs that 
 have been opened and rifled of their contents. "VYe 
 entered one which is now used by Mustapha Agah 
 as a depository for what he finds in his work of re- 
 surrection. There were several fine mummy cases, 
 containing bodies which he has recently exhumed. 
 One of them was the body of a princess. There 
 was an open mummy -case standing against the 
 wall, tenanted by a withered body, with its hideous 
 face uncovered. Mrs. Smith mounted upon the top 
 of a prostrate sarcophagus, and delivered the follow- 
 ing address to the defunct Egyptian, which she seemed 
 to have memorized for the occasion. The address 
 was written a long time ago by one of the Smith 
 family — Horace Smith, perhaps : 
 
 ADDRESS TO A MUMMY. 
 
 And tliou hast walked about (how strange a story !) 
 In Thebcs's streets three thousand years ago, 
 
 When the Memnonium was in all its glory, 
 And time had not begun to overthrow 
 
 Those temples, palaces, and piles stupendous. 
 
 Of which the very ruins are tremendous. 
 
 Speak ! for thou long enough hast acted Dummy. 
 Thou hast a tongue — come — let us hear its tunc ; 
 
250 hal's travels. 
 
 Tliou'rt staudiug ou thy legs, above-ground, Mummy ! 
 
 Revisiting the glimpses of the moon, 
 Not like thin ghosts or disembodied creatures, 
 But with thy bones and flesh, and limbs and features. 
 
 Tell us — for doubtless thou canst recollect — 
 To whom should we assign the Sphynx's fame ? 
 
 Was Cheops or Cephrenes architect 
 
 Of either pyramid that bears his name ? 
 
 Is Pompey's Pillar really a misnomer ? 
 
 Had Thebes a hundred gates, as sung by Homer ? 
 
 Perhaps thou wert a Mason, and forbidden 
 By oath to tell the secrets of thy trade ; 
 
 Then say what secret melody was hidden 
 
 In Memnon's statue which at sunrise played ? 
 
 Perhaps thou wert a Priest ; if so, my struggles 
 
 Are vain, for priestcraft never owns its juggles. 
 
 Perchance that very hand, now pinioned flat, 
 Has hob-a-nobbed with Pharaoh, glass to glass ; 
 
 Or dropped a half-penny in Homer's hat. 
 Or doffed thine own to let Queen Dido pass ; 
 
 Or held, by Solomon's own invitation, 
 
 A torch at the great Temple's dedication. 
 
 I need not ask thee if that hand, when armed. 
 Has any Roman soldier mauled and knuckled, 
 
 For thou wert dead, and buried, and embalmed. 
 Ere Romulus and Remus had been suckled : 
 
 Antiquity appears to have begun 
 
 Long after thy primeval race was run. 
 
 Thou couldst develop, if that withered tongue 
 Might tell us what those sightless orbs have seen, 
 
 How the world looked when it was fresh and young. 
 And the great Deluge still had left it green ; 
 
 Or Avas it then so old that History's pages 
 
 Contained no record of its early ages ? 
 
iial's travels. 251 
 
 still silent! incommunicative elf! 
 
 Art sworn to secrecy ? then keep thy vows ; 
 But pry thee tell us something of thyself— 
 
 Reveal the secrets of thy prison-house; 
 Since in the world of spirits thou hast slumbered, 
 AVhat hast thou seen— what strange adventures numbered? 
 
 Since first thy form was in this box extended, 
 
 We have, above-ground, seen some strange mutations: 
 
 The Roman empire has begun and ended. 
 
 New worlds have risen — we have lost old nations. 
 
 And countless kings have into dust been humbled, 
 
 While not a fragment of thy flesh has crumbled. 
 
 Didst thou not hear the pother o'er thy head, 
 Wlien the great Persian conqueror, Cambyses, 
 
 Marclied armies o'er thy tomb with thundering tread, 
 O'erthrew Osiris, Orus, Apis, Isis, 
 
 And shook the Pyramids with fear and wonder, 
 
 When the gigantic Memnon fell asunder? 
 
 If the tomb's seci'ets may not be confessed, 
 
 The nature of thy private life unfold: 
 A heart has throbbed beneath that leathern breast, 
 
 And tears adown that dusty cheek have rolled: 
 Have children climbed those knees, and kissed that face? 
 What was thy name and station, age and race? 
 
 Statue of flesh — Immortal of the dead! 
 
 Imperishable type of evanescence ! 
 Posthumous man, who quitt'st thy narrow bed. 
 
 And standest undecayed within our presence. 
 Thou wilt hear nothing till the Judgment morning, 
 When the great Trump shall thrill thee with its Avarning. 
 
 Why should this worthless tegument endure. 
 
 If its undying guest be lost for ever? 
 ! let us keep the soul embalmed and pure 
 
 In living virtue, that when both must sever, 
 Although corruption may our frame consume, 
 The immortal spirit in the skies may bloom! 
 
252 hal's travels. 
 
 Mustapha drives a good business opening tombs 
 and selling the contents. Eich jewels are some- 
 times found in the sarcophagi with the dead bodies. 
 
 Mustapha Agah is a high functionary in Thebes. 
 From the battlements of his house (a mud edifice 
 standing just behind the great columns of the for- 
 mer porch of the Temple of Luxor) float both the 
 flags of Great Britain and America. He is con- 
 sular agent for both nations. So Mustapha is a 
 great man among the Thebans — higher than the 
 governor himself. I shall long remember Mus- 
 tapha, and so will every American who visits 
 Thebes — especially if he drinks cofiee and smokes 
 the fragrant lataika. Mustapha never fails to fur- 
 nish his visitors with the chibouk and coflfee in true 
 Eastern style. Mustapha is a quiet, pleasant man, 
 perhaps fifty years old, and as black as the ace of 
 spades. He speaks pretty good English, but can 
 neither read nor write. You may think it strange 
 that a United States consul should be unable to 
 read, but then you must remember that Mustapha 
 is in Egypt, and fully competent to attend to all 
 matters likely to come before him, without the aid 
 of letters. 
 
 The time has now almost come for our departure. 
 This evening, ere the twilight dews begin to fall, we 
 shall bid farewell to Mustapha, and to the remains 
 of what was once a city of a hundred gates ! Mus- 
 tapha has loaded his little cannon, and will doubt- 
 less give us a parting salute, for he pays marked 
 respect to Americans. All the guns and pistols on 
 
hal's travels. 253 
 
 board the "Hiawatha" and " ISIiimchaha" are in 
 readiness for one grand discharge. "We shall pro- 
 ceed to Grand Cairo, which will occupy from two to 
 three weeks, as we have several stoppages to make 
 along the way. From Cairo we shall make a break 
 for the Holy Laud. Will write you again from 
 Cairo. 
 
 We have spent six days in Thebes, which is little 
 time enough to see the ruins here. Those who have 
 ample time should sta}- longer. To those who come 
 here I commend the chibouk and coffee of Mustapha 
 Agali at the British and American Consulate. 
 
 But evening approaches, and I must close. The 
 "Minnehaha" has been set in order, and will soon 
 be afloat upon the turbid bosom of the Nile towards 
 the Great Sea. She has many hundred miles to 
 float. If I kill a crocodile on the downward voyage, 
 I shall make a note of it. Farewell. 
 
 Hal. 
 
254 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 THEBES TO THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 Most glorious is life upon the Mle ! I have tra- 
 velled in almost every way that man ever travelled : 
 have footed it upon the broad plains of the far 
 West ; have dashed across the same plains on the 
 wild Mustang ; have floated upon the bosom of the 
 mighty Mississippi in steamers little less than 
 palaces ; have descended the beautiful Tennessee 
 on the primitive "broad-horn ;" whizzed from one 
 end of the Union to the other on the " iron steed;" 
 have been towed upon the " raging canal ;" steamed 
 across the billowy Atlantic; traversed the wild 
 regions of Switzerland, and crossed the towering 
 Alps, in the great lumbering diligence ; rode upon 
 the restless bosom of the blue Mediterranean ; 
 rocked through the desert on the back of the fleet 
 dromedary, and galloped over many, many miles on 
 the nimble-footed donke3^ In all these ways have 
 I travelled; but for luxurious pleasure, none of them 
 begin to compare with a snug boat upon the Nile. 
 Kile-travelling is "first-class" poetry, compared with 
 which all other modes are commonplace prose, and 
 that of the most prosy kind. 
 
iial's travels. 255 
 
 This is now tlic eiglitli or ninth week that we 
 have heen in blissful ignorance of the world. We 
 have no cares except to eat, drink, and sleep. "We 
 are neither cursed with news nor newspapers. 
 Neither pay nor receive visits from gossiping 
 neighbors ; nor does the post or carrier-boy leave 
 the daily or weekly paper at our door. Therefore 
 we are happy. We pity our poor deluded friends 
 in America who keep themselves "posted" by 
 reading the papers, and distress themselves sorely 
 when things don't go to please them. Some we 
 know are miserable because they see horrible spec- 
 tres of the " glorious Union busted up" and clean 
 gone ; while other poor devils are utterly miserable 
 because of their inability to bring about said "bust- 
 up." Other some distress themselves grievously in 
 view of the making of the next President, while 
 ghosts and goblins dire haunt the visions of those 
 "illustrious self-sacrificing patriots" who have sig- 
 nified their willingness to yield to the wishes of 
 their countrymen, and to be placed in the Presi- 
 dential chair. And what painful anxiety must 
 weigh upon those benevolent men who take it upon 
 themselves to arrange and pack committees and 
 delegates for the national farce (by courtesy called 
 " convention") preparatorj'^ to making a President ! 
 I say, I pity j'ou, my enliglitencd friends — from my 
 soul I do. Would that you could have a few weeks 
 respite upon the Nile from the painful cares that 
 beset you ! 
 
 To give you some idea of our ignorance — and 
 
256 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 consequent bliss — I will inform you that we do not 
 even know who is Speaker of the House of Repre- 
 sentatives, or whether it has a Speaker at all. We 
 heard in Rome (that was a long time ago) that Con- 
 gress had met, and would proceed to organize, if 
 such a thing were possible, but up to this time we 
 have not heard the result. We have ceased to 
 trouble ourselves with either speaking or thinking 
 of politics, and I almost dread to see the time come 
 when the state of public affairs in Uncle Sam's do- 
 minions shall be forced upon me. Two or three 
 weeks ago I ventured to ask my friend Smith what 
 his ideas were about the state of politics at home. 
 I saw a cloud of any thing but pleasure darken his 
 brow; he puffed his chibouk viciously for a few 
 moments, and then, with an emphasis peculiar only 
 to Smith, he replied, "D — n politics!" I said no 
 more, and he continued to puff furiously. I thought 
 strange of this, for Smith was a rampant politician 
 when I first knew him. But such is the effect of 
 travelling in the East — especially upon the Nile. 
 
 But this is not telling you of our downward voy- 
 age from Upper Egypt. Twelve days ago, just as 
 darkness was settling down upon the ancient city of 
 Thebes — but while it was yet high noon in Hunts- 
 ville — the Hiawatha and Minnehaha were loosed 
 from their moorings under the towering portico of 
 grand old Luxor, and floated out into the stream, 
 when six guns from the boats announced their de- 
 parture for the lower country. These guns were 
 responded to by the burning of a pound and a half 
 
hal's travels. 257 
 
 of Eg3'ptian powder by old Mustaplia, whoso little 
 cannon thundered forth a report that was echoed by 
 the mountains and cavernous tombs miles away 
 across the river, and we were* off, gliding away from 
 the city of forty centuries, which was falling into 
 ruins, perhaps, while the seven hills of Rome were 
 yet a wilderness. 
 
 Our progress down the river was slow indeed, 
 owing to adverse winds, and it was not until the 
 afternoon of the following day that we reached the 
 city of Ghena, in the neighborhood of which stands 
 the old Temple of Dendera, one of the lions of 
 Egypt that must needs be seen by all travellers who 
 ascend the Nile. "We of course found the omni- 
 present donkeys waiting for us — they are always 
 waiting, and such donkeys ! Wish I could send 
 you a picture of our party as we mounted those don- 
 keys and rode away. You would laugh some. Three 
 of the twelve had bridles, and five had saddles, two 
 of the saddles had stirrups, the rest did n't. The 
 donkeys were of the smallest breed, and almost as 
 woolly as sheep, which they resembled, except the 
 ears. When mounted by their riders, little could be 
 seen but their head and part of their tail. The ears 
 were all the portions visible of those ridden by the 
 ladies — the flowing skirts concealing all else. The 
 donkc}^ on which Miss Kissiahwas mounted, though 
 diminutive, was a vicious little scoundrel, and man- 
 aged early in the excursion to spill his precious 
 burden upon the ground. She bravely remounted, 
 however, and with two Arabs to hold her on, and a 
 9 
 
258 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 third to lead, slie managed to stick to him until our 
 return to the boats. Smith's donkey got him oS 
 twice — (Smith always gets thrown ofi*) — once by fall- 
 ing, and the second tirfie by lying down. His driver 
 got a sound cursing, but no "backsheesh" that day. 
 
 The Temple of Dendera is comparatively of mod- 
 ern date, being perhaps something less than two 
 thousand years old ! Some portion of it is said to 
 have been built by Cleopatra, and one of the walls 
 is adorned with a sculptured portrait of that queen 
 in bas-relief. Her son, by Julius Ccesar, is standing 
 by her. Like all other Egyptian temples, it is a 
 massive building, every stone of which is carved 
 with images and hieroglyphics. The architecture is 
 magnificent. With the exception of Karnak, it con- 
 tains some of the largest columns I have seen in 
 Egypt. This temple is almost perfect, but much of 
 it is hid by the ruins of the mud-built city that once 
 surrounded it. The rubbish has all been removed 
 from the interior, and the immense halls stand va- 
 cant and desolate, tenanted only by bats and owls. 
 
 Finishing up the Temple of Dendera, we returned 
 to our boats through luxurious wlieat-fields — cut 
 loose and floated away, with the sincere desire that 
 the next party of travellers may find better donkeys 
 than we found. Three days after, we brought up at 
 the city of Girgch, the place where we had stopped 
 on the upward trip to see the Dervishes and' the 
 dancing-girls. We did n't take donkeys here, but 
 determined to "do" the town on foot. We formed 
 in single column, and marched through the bazaars, 
 
hal's travels. 250 
 
 stared at and followed by a hundred shirt-tail na- 
 tives. The ladies of our party were regarded with 
 admiration, and would have been crowded almost to 
 suttbcation if we had not kept the crowd back by 
 flourishing our sticks, and occasionally cracking the 
 heads of the more curious. They stand in mortal 
 dread of the cane or "koorbash" of a "howadji." 
 A koorbash is a keen whip, made of the liide of 
 rhinoceros. 
 
 The people of Girgeh are not the most noted of 
 Egyptians for cleanliness. Indeed, they may be 
 called, by fastidious people, filthy. It was soon after 
 our visit to this city on the way up that the horrible 
 discovery of the nameless vermin was made among 
 us. Mrs. Smith made the discovery on that occa- 
 sion, and she continues to affirm to this day that 
 they came from Girgeh, which is probable. Re- 
 turning to our boats after this our second visit, which 
 had been made with the utmost caution, a proposi- 
 tion was made that a general examination be gone 
 into. It was done, and the result was horrifying. 
 The ladies retired to their cabins, and were not long 
 in finding abundant evidence of the presence of the 
 enemy. The gentlemen stripped, and were equally 
 successful. There were voices of lamentation that 
 evening on board the Minnehaha, which were 
 heartily responded to from the portals of the Hia- 
 watha. The ladies almost sobbed, so great was their 
 distress. The gentlemen laughed, and tried to make 
 a joke of it ; but the laugh was dry enough, and the 
 ladies refused to be comforted. Smith, as his cus- 
 
260 hal's travels. 
 
 torn is, tried to be witty on the occasion. Smith is 
 always trying to be witty. lie said " there was no 
 nse trying to disguise the fact : that we were a lousy 
 set." This remark brought a shower of indignation 
 upon Smith's head from the ladies, each of whom 
 called him a "brute." And it was a brutal remark ; 
 but Smith is a practical man, and believes in calling 
 things by the right name. There is generally some 
 truth in what Smith says, however homely his lan- 
 guage. His wit is not always apparent. 
 
 Towards night we loosed from Girgeh, and floated 
 down the river, carrying with us vivid imjyressions of 
 its inhabitants. In due course of time — I don't re- 
 member how long — we arrived at Ossiout, the largest 
 city in Middle Egypt. Here we of course found 
 donkeys in waiting, and were not long in mounting 
 and setting off for the mountains which lie just back 
 of the city. Our object was to visit the tombs which 
 honeycomb the solid stone cliffs. There are a great 
 many of them, some very large, say forty by fifty 
 feet square, smoothly cut in the solid rock, and 
 adorned with thousands of hieroglyphics and figures 
 in bas-relief on the walls. Seated on some loose 
 stones in the largest one of these tombs we sung 
 several hymns, (it was the Sabbath day,) winding up 
 with some good old camp-meeting songs, after which 
 we departed and went into the city. Passing 
 through the bazaars, we found the crowd so dense 
 that we were obliged to dismount and send our don- 
 keys round another way, while we crowded through 
 on foot. "We met a funeral-procession, the largest 
 
hal's travels. 261 
 
 I have seen. It was led by banners and drums. 
 The body Lay upon an open bier, and immediately 
 following were about fifty mourning-women, whose 
 hideous yells were terrifying. I never heard such 
 weeping. You would have thought the heart of 
 each and every one of them was in the very act of 
 breaking snap in two. They were hired for the 
 occasion, and seemed determined to earn their 
 wages. 
 
 In one of the bazaars of this city I saw the first 
 really handsome Egyptian woman that I have met 
 with. If I could wield the pen of a modern novel- 
 writer, I would endeavor to give you some idea of 
 her beauty ; for nothing short of that could do her 
 justice. "Were I to say that her sparkling black 
 eyes shone like diamonds, and her teeth like pearls, 
 it would not be exaggeration. ISTor would it be 
 more than just to say that her swelling bosom and 
 beautifullj^-rounded arm were such as a Venus 
 might have envied. No Grecian beauty ever pos- 
 sessed features more regular. Showers of coal- 
 black tresses fell in rich profusion upon her grace- 
 ful neck, and lay nestling upon her voluptuous 
 bosom, just enough of which was exposed to make 
 one anxious to see more. She was dressed in rich 
 Oriental costume, with full flowing silk trowsers, 
 clasped at the ankles with heavy gold bands. Her 
 head, neck, bosom, and wrists were adorned with 
 golden trinkets, elegantly wrought into various 
 devices. I suppose the solid gold ornaments she 
 wore were worth, by weight, at least a thousand 
 
262 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 dollars. The gracefulness with which she sat, and 
 the mild and modest expression of her beautiful 
 face, belied the calling of this fair creature ; for she 
 was a woman of the town, sitting in the market- 
 place, waiting to be hired. 
 
 Leaving Ossiout, we next halted at Eckmien, a 
 town containing twenty-five or thirty thousand in- 
 habitants, without .counting the dogs, of which 
 latter there seemed to be several regiments. All 
 Egyptian towns swarm with dogs. Eckmien is 
 noted for nothing in particular, so far as I know, 
 except as being the place where General Adem Bey 
 is stationed with the flower of the army of Egypt. 
 Here is the first division of the army, and the 
 favorite soldiers of the Pasha. They are all 
 I^ubians, and as black as night ; but, black as they 
 are, a finer-looking body of men I never saw, the 
 least one of which is six feet high, and as straight 
 as an Indian. Adem Bey, the commander, is a 
 noble-looking man, standing six feet six in his 
 stockings, and wearing a fierce moustache. He is 
 a brave soldier, and one of the first ofiicials in the 
 Government. Besides being commander of the first 
 division of the army, he is at present acting as Deputy 
 Governor of this portion of Egypt. As to color, 
 General Adem Bey is as black as a stack of black cats 
 in a dark cellar at midnight, but has, withal, a mild 
 and pleasant face. Soon after we landed at Eck- 
 mien, my friend Smith proposed that we pay a 
 formal visit to this dignitary. I agreed, of course. 
 So, taking our dragoman, we sallied forth towards 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 263 
 
 the encampment, not, however, until we had put 
 on clean linen, and Smith had donned his regiment- 
 als. Smith would carry his gun. He always car- 
 ries his gun. As we reached the encampment, and 
 were passing up an avenue between rows of white 
 tents and black soldiers, approaching the marque 
 of the General, who had seen us coming from a 
 distance, and dispatched two servants to welcome 
 us to his quarters, it was then and there that Smith 
 compromised the dignity of both of us, and came 
 well-nigh turning our pompous visit into a farce. 
 It was in this wise : Just as the General was ad- 
 vancing to welcome us, in true Eastern style, (for 
 my companion's gaud}' gold lace and gilt buttons 
 had inspired him with profound respect, if not 
 awe,) Smith, seeing a flock of pigeons some hun- 
 dred or two 3'ards away, broke towards them in a 
 brisk run ; nor would he stop until he had shot at 
 them. lie missed, of course, and then came puffing 
 and blowing back to the tent, evidently pleased that 
 he had had a shot at the birds. The General sup- 
 pressed a smile, while the servants almost burst 
 with laughter. I confess that my face burnt with 
 mortification, but Smith heeded none of these 
 things. Our dragoman introduced us, giving my 
 friend the title of Colonel. Smith seized the hand 
 of the General, and gave it a genuine Yankee 
 shake. We were invited to seats on the voluptuous 
 divan, by the side of our entertainer, while servants 
 brought us coffee and chibouks. AVe smoked and 
 chatted with his sable highness for nearly an hour, 
 
264 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 and found him to be a man of no mean capacity. He 
 had heard of America, and had an impression that 
 it was a great country, but far, O very far away ! 
 Said he was glad to see Americans, and hoped we 
 had enjoyed our visit to Egypt. Smith did his best 
 to impress the fact upon our host that Americans 
 were the greatest people in the world, and flatter- 
 ingly insinuated that the ISTubians might rank next. 
 This flattering speech pleased the General wonder- 
 fully, and the servants were immediately ordered to 
 refill the pipes and coflee-cups. He showed us his 
 arms and accoutrements ; also those of his soldiers. 
 Had all his musical instruments brought in and 
 pompously exhibited. Expressed much regret that 
 our visit had fallen upon the Moslem Sabbath, 
 (Friday ;) otherwise he would have given us a 
 chance to review his soldiers on parade. Would 
 also have treated us to a musical entertainment, 
 and a characteristic JSTubian dance. But the Koran 
 forbade these performances on Friday, and we had 
 to forego the pleasure. Our visit to Adem Bey was 
 an agreeable one, and but for the approach of even- 
 ing, would have been prolonged. Smith more than 
 ever believes in the power of gold lace and gilt but- 
 tons, being assured that it was his uniform that in- 
 sured our welcome. 
 
 Leaving Eckmien, our next stopping-place was 
 Beni-Hassen, where once stood a considerable 
 town ; but a few years ago it was destroyed, and its 
 inhabitants all killed by Ibraham Pasha, except a 
 very few, who escaped by running the gauntlet. 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 265 
 
 Notliiug now remains but the blackened, crumbling 
 walls. The cause of the destruction of this town 
 and people, was their thievish and marauding pro- 
 pensities. It had become dangerous for travellers 
 to stop there to see the many large and curious 
 tombs in the neighborhood, and consequently the 
 Pasha sent his soldiers and wiped it out of exist- 
 ence. The tombs in the mountain back of this town 
 are man}' and curious ; some very large, and nearly 
 all adorned with paintings — better executed than 
 most I have seen elsewhere. One of these tombs 
 is peculiarl}^ interesting, because it is thought by 
 many that it is the same in which the body of 
 Joseph rested until the exodus of the Israelites. 
 One of the walls bears a painting, which it is 
 thought represents the arrival of Jacob and his 
 sons and their families into Egypt, and their pre- 
 sentation to Pharaoh. The number of figures in the 
 painting corresponds with the number of Israelites 
 upon their first arrival. Their flocks and herds and 
 little ones are all represented. It may or may not 
 be Joseph's, but it is at least a very interesting 
 tomb. It is about forty-five feet square, and per- 
 haps fifteen feet to the ceiling, which is supported 
 by several columns. 
 
 Below Beni-Hassen we stopped at ]\Iinych, and 
 visited a very large sugar-manufactory, in which are 
 employed six hundred men. It is managed by 
 French and Russians. "We strolled about the town 
 some time, but nothing turned up worthy of note. 
 Nearly half the people of Minyeh seem to be one- 
 
266 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 eyed, and dogs are numerous. Our next stop was 
 at Benisooef, the lirst important town above Cairo. 
 "We landed about two miles from the town, which 
 being rather an out-of-the-way place, there were no 
 donkeys present (a wonder!) to carry us into the 
 city. We footed it. Went through the bazaars, 
 and laid in a fresh supply of pipes and tobacco. 
 Heard a quarrel there which exceeded any thing 
 in the way of a war of words I ever heard. An old 
 woman was pitching into a shopkeeper in the most 
 approved high-pressure style. The scene was ludi- 
 crous beyond description. At first the tongue of 
 the man went like a bell-clapper, but he soon wilted 
 before that old woman. She assumed a thousand 
 grotesque shapes and attitudes, swaying her arms 
 in. the air like winding blades, while her long bony 
 fingers contracted and expanded, and clutched, as 
 though she was tearing the very w^ind-pipe from the 
 neck of her antagonist. Her eyes glared like those 
 of an enraged hyena, while she champed her teeth 
 and foamed at the mouth like a rabid wild boar. 
 She yelled like an Indian, and drew her lean swarthy 
 face into a myriad of frightful contortions. All the 
 time the words flew like bullets, and seemed to 
 take efiect, for the man grew perceptibly less at 
 every onslaught. When the old woman was ex- 
 hausted and nearly ready to fall, a young, athletic 
 woman, about the size of a jackass, and almost as 
 stout, came to her relief, and continued the war in 
 the same strain, until a man in authority approached 
 and put an end to the fun. At the close of this 
 
HAL S TRAVELS. 
 
 267 
 
 quarrel we hurried to our boats, and floated dowa 
 the river. 
 
 It is now the fourteenth day since we left Thebes. 
 Our progress has been slow, head winds having 
 greatly impeded our course. Our amusements and 
 pastimes coming down have been about the same 
 as when going up — shooting, running, jumping, and 
 kicking up our heels generally. Yesterday being 
 Sunday, our little party of twelve met on board the 
 Hiawatha, and while you were sleeping and per- 
 chance dreaming in Huntsville, we worshipped God 
 in the old home fashion, with prayers, and hymns, 
 and spiritual songs — the astonished Arabs standing 
 round and looking on with wonder, as we bowed 
 before tlie throne of grace. 
 
 THE PTRAMinS. 
 
 We are now irettiiisr in tlie neighborhood of the 
 pyramids. Already thoy begin to loom up in the 
 
268 hal's travels. 
 
 distance, and the head of the great Sphynx is peer- 
 ing above the sand-hills ; hut as the wind is strong 
 against us, we shall not reach them before to-morrow, 
 perhaps. After I have seen and climbed some of 
 them, I will write you another letter. 
 
 Yours, etc., Hal. 
 
iial's travels. 200 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 PYRAMIDS TO JERUSALEJI. 
 
 Prepare for a long stride — from the Nile to Jeru- 
 salem — for tins letter iimst cover all the time and 
 space intervening since my last letter — which, if I 
 remember rightly, was closed late one evening, 
 many days ago, as we floated down the Nile in 
 sight of the pyramids of Sakhara and Dashore. It 
 was the next morning after the close of that letter, 
 I was aroused early by my friend Smith, (who is al- 
 ways up with the lark,) and told that we were near 
 the pyramids. I stuck my head out of the window, 
 and found the nose of the Minnehaha stuck in the 
 mud on the west bank of the river, and the gallant 
 Hiawatha moored alongside — sails all furled. In 
 the distance were the pyramids, just gilded by the 
 rising sun. All our party were soon astir, and Mo- 
 hammed was ordered to hurry up his cakes, that we 
 might have an early breakfast and be ofl". Moham- 
 med Avas unusually spry that morning, and by seven 
 o'clock we were ready to start. 
 
 Now, my friend, if you feel inclined to travel, you 
 may imagine yourself one of our party, and make 
 the excursion with us. Here arc the donkeys wait- 
 
270 hal's travels. 
 
 ing for us. You may mount tliis little mouse- 
 colored one. 'No matter about a bridle — a donkey- 
 boy will guide him for you with a stick. Your 
 saddle has no stirrups, but that is all right in Egj^Dt. 
 "With Achmet ahead, we will strike out through 
 this large palm-grove. Half an hour's ride, and here 
 we are in the midst of the ruins of old Memphis, or 
 Noph. We look around upon desolation. See 
 nothing here but stupendous piles of broken bricks 
 and fallen walls, with here and there a broken 
 image half buried in the earth. "We think imme- 
 diately of the prophecies concerning this once proud 
 city : "For Noph shall be waste and desolate, with- 
 out an inhabitant;" and again, "I will destroy the 
 idols, and will cause their images to cease out of 
 Noph." How literally fulfilled ! The images and 
 idols are all prostrate and mutilated. We see but 
 one that is worth pausing to look at ; it is a colossal 
 statue of liameses Second, which, when standing, 
 was between forty and fifty feet high. It is fallen 
 now, and its feet broken ofi" — otherwise perfect. 
 
 We will hurry on now to the pyramid of Sakhara 
 — some two hours' ride farther. See how it grows 
 upon us as we approach it ! Is it not immense ? And 
 yet it is a small afi:air compared with the one we will 
 see to-morrow — Cheops. But even this would be the 
 w^onder and admiration of the world if there w^ere 
 none larger. Our dragoman says we cannot ascend 
 this pyramid. We don't believe him — so here w^e go ! 
 He is alarmed, and swears more than a hundred times 
 that we will fall and break our necks. He lies, for 
 
hal's travels. 271 
 
 here we are on the very pinnacle, waving our hats 
 at the astonished Smith, who broke down wlien 
 half-way up, and returned to the ground to keep 
 the ladies company. 
 
 But let us return to the earth now, and go to the 
 tomb of Apis — the cavern in which were deposited 
 the sacred bulls worshipped by the ancient Egyp- 
 tians. It is near by. Let us look to our pistols, 
 for we have read Mr. Prime's account of the attack 
 upon himself and party, by a hundred and tifty 
 Arabs, when he visited this tomb. True, he and 
 his bold dragoman put them all to flight, and walked 
 into the cavern without molestation ; but they may 
 have picked up some courage since then, and may 
 not be so easily routed as when bearded by the fierce 
 "Brahccm Efi:endi." "We are all armed, and Smith, 
 besides his gun, has got the hatchet from the boat, 
 and the carving-knife belonging to our table furni- 
 ture ; while Brown carries his volcanic repeater in one 
 hand and spiked Alpenstock in the other, looking 
 meanwhile as savage as a thunder-storm. The rest 
 of us carry each a cop}' of Colt's best stuck in our 
 belts. Brave indeed must be the hundred and fifty 
 Bedouins who attack our party ! Now, in solid 
 phalanx we move on, Smith nobly leading the van. 
 We approach the cavern, but see not the enemy. 
 Keep a sharp look-out : they may be behind those 
 sand-hills, ready to pounce upon us. We halt, and 
 send Jones ahead to reconnoitre. He returns and 
 reports the coast clear. All right ! Let us enter. 
 There is " nary" Bedouin about. No doubt Prime's 
 
272 iial's travels. 
 
 demonstration, and his threat to throw the old sheik 
 of the tribe "over the river into the Red Sea," fright- 
 ened them clean away entirely. The brave " Effendi" 
 deserves the thanks of all travellers for frightening 
 away this band of thieves. 
 
 But is not this a tremendous hole in the ground ? 
 See, it is a finely finished gallery, cut in the living 
 rock, two or three hundred yards in length. Here 
 are twenty-five niches in the sides, each one con- 
 taining a mammoth sarcophagus, in which the 
 bodies of the sacred bulls were placed after being 
 embalmed. Most of the sarcophagi have been 
 opened, and the bull mummies removed. One of 
 them is in l^ew York, in Dr. Abbott's collection 
 of Egyptian antiquities. Here is a richly finished 
 chapel in which is the broken image of a calf, and a 
 prostrate Egyptian before it. Don't you suppose 
 it was this custom among the Egyptians that first 
 suggested to Aaron the idea of making a golden 
 calf? Very likely, you say. 
 
 AYell, w^e have now explored this tomb, let ns 
 return to the light of da}^ and take lunch, for I am 
 hungry. Here, we will eat in the cool shade in the 
 mouth of the tomb — rest till the cool of the evening, 
 and return to our boats. 
 
 Ghezeh ! Yes, here we are at Ghezeh. We 
 floated down here last night after returning to our 
 boats from the Bull Tombs. Yonder are the pyra- 
 mids of Cheops and Belzoni, and we are all in a 
 fidget to be off. These are better donkeys than we 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 273 
 
 had yesterday, and we will set oiF in a brisk gallop. 
 The pyramids seem just out yonder, but they are 
 six miles away. Were you ever so deceived in 
 distance ? But at this gait, it will not take long to 
 get there. Stirrups and bridles are luxurious ap- 
 pendages to donkeys — are they not ? Now we near 
 the base of old Cheops. Here we pass by the great 
 Sphynx, about which we have read, and whose 
 picture we have so often looked at in Olncy's Geo- 
 graphy. Although it is a perfect figure hewn out 
 of a mountain, and one of the most wonderful things 
 in the world, we will not stop to see it now, but 
 hasten to the pyramid, which is more wonderful 
 still. Are you not astonished and bewildered? 
 Do you not wilt right down before this, the greatest 
 work ever conceived by man ? I do. I feel op- 
 pressed — a sensation something akin to nightmare — 
 and not the least inclination towards an effort to 
 comprehend the great pile. Kow, first, before wo 
 yield ourselves into the hands of these savage-look- 
 ing Arabs, who wait here to carry travellers to the 
 top of the pyramid, let us ride around and view it 
 on all sides. Wonderful ! wonderful ! you exclaim ; 
 and so it is. To give our friends at home some 
 idea of its size, I think we may say that its base 
 covers four times as much ground as the public 
 square of Iluntsville ! — perhaps more — certainly not 
 less. 
 
 But here we are now, in a crowd of a hundred 
 Arabs — great stalwart fellows. What a scufiie ! 
 Each one claims the privilege of conducting us to 
 
274 hal's travels. 
 
 the top of the pyramid ; and we shall be fortunate 
 if we get out of their hands with whole bones. We 
 are clutched by as many as can possibly get hold of 
 us at a time, and each one seems determined to 
 hold his grip. Fighting with donkey-boys is child's- 
 pla,y to this. But here comes the old sheik of the 
 tribe to our rescue. He orders our tormentors to 
 desist, and appoints two for each of us, who hurry 
 us rapidly from rock to rock up the rugged steep 
 before us. Pausing to rest when about one-fourth 
 of the .way up, we see all our party winding their 
 way up behind us, except Smith. He is still at the 
 base, fighting with the Arabs. Before reaching 
 here he swore roundly that no yellow-skinned devil 
 of an Arab should carry him up the pyramid ; that 
 he had failed yesterday to reach the top of Sakhara, 
 and that he would to-day go up Cheops unassisted, 
 to retrieve his character — for Smith is an ambitious 
 man. He tights bravely, but in vain, for it is not 
 the Arab policy to let any one go up without aid 
 and "backsheesh." Poor Smith is exhausted, and 
 is now borne up the rugged height in the arms of 
 his tawny friends. He has ceased to struggle, but 
 swears at every step that he will not pay them 
 a cent for their labor. iNow here we are at the top, 
 higher than we ever were before, being nearly two 
 hundred yards from terra firma. On top is a plateau 
 twenty feet square perhaps, so that we can sit and 
 rest and look about securely. People on the ground 
 do not seem to us near so large as grasshoppers. 
 From here we have a fine view of Cairo and the 
 
hal's travels. 275 
 
 Nile — and to the west we see away off for perhaps 
 a hundred miles into the great Lih3^an desert. 
 
 We now descend, and go into the heart of this 
 great pile of stone. This part of our da3^'s work 
 will not leave a favorable impression. "We shall 
 only remember it as a laborious winding and crawl- 
 ing through dark, hot, dusty labyrinths, where suf- 
 focation seemed almost inevitable. We find two 
 large chambers, one called the King's, and the other 
 the Queen's tomb. This is all. 
 • Smith, you observe, has got over his passion, and 
 is in excellent humor. Instead of refusing to pay 
 the fellows who carried him up the pyramid, he 
 has paid them more than double. They have been 
 expatiating upon the beauty of Mrs. Smith, and 
 have thereby struck the old gentleman in a tender 
 place — for Smith has his weak points. 
 
 We will now lunch and rest, after which Ave will 
 return to our boats, marvelling at the greatness of 
 the works of Egypt. It will be night when we get 
 there, and so we will sleep as we float down the river. 
 
 Cairo, the Grand ! the jSIagnificent ! the Beauti- 
 ful ! Here we are again in " Cairo the Victorious !" 
 How delightful to get once again into a fine city, 
 after wandering for Aveeks among mud- huts and 
 squalid villages ! How gay the streets, and Avith 
 what glee Ave mount the tat, round Cairo donkey, 
 and dash through them ! This pleasure almost 
 counterbalances tlie regrets aa'C experience in leav- 
 ing our dear little " Minnehaha," in Avhich we have 
 
276 hal's travels.' 
 
 dwelt with so mucti ease and delight for more than 
 six weeks. The removal is a sad one, hut the bustle 
 and gayety in this great city of five hundred thou- 
 sand people will soon dispel the sadness. 
 
 We take rooms at the "Hotel des Pyramides," 
 and will now be o& for a ride. Here we go, down 
 the street, full speed to the park, or great square, by 
 the "Hotel d' Orient." Hold! "Halloo, Captain! 
 is that you ? Sure enough it is ! Captain Jim 
 Williams, of Tennessee, United- States Minister to 
 the Sublime Porte. Glad to see you. Captain. 
 Give us your hand. You are looking remarkably 
 well. First home-face I 've seen in the East. Just 
 from Constantinople, eh ? Waiting here for your 
 family, who have gone up the Nile ? Yes, we heard 
 of them up there. Return home in eight days, do 
 you ? Thank you. We will call at the Legation, 
 when we reach the Golden Horn. 'No ; we have 
 heard no news from home for many weeks, nor do 
 we seek any. Don't tell us any, if you please. 
 Sorry you told us of the election of Speaker of the 
 House of Representatives. Thank you. We will 
 call at 3^our room this evening, and get what informa- 
 tion you can give us about travelling in Syria, as you 
 have recently taken a tour in that country. We 
 leave for Jerusalem in three days. Good-day !" 
 
 We spend three or four days in Cairo, shopping 
 and riding and walking, visiting mosques and such 
 places of interest as we failed to see when here 
 before. 
 
hal's travels. 277 
 
 Now let us be off for Alexandria ; for the steamer 
 sails from there to-morrow for Joppa, and we must 
 be on hand. We go to the depot and buy our tickets 
 from a big black nigger, who cheats us out of several 
 pennies, in making change. There are only ten of 
 us now — t^vo of our party, Mr. and Mrs. S., pas- 
 sengers of the Hiawatha, having stopped in Cairo. 
 We give them up with much regret. The train 
 reaches Alexandria about eleven o'clock at night, 
 and we again domicile at the India Hotel. Smith of 
 course quarrels with the landlord, and beats him 
 down in his prices. Smith always argues the great 
 difference between wholesale and retail, and gene- 
 rally gains his point. It would be hard for our 
 party to get along without Smith, although I must 
 confess that I am sometimes seriously provoked 
 with him. 
 
 The time has now come for us to go aboard the 
 steamer. We all settle our bills at the hotel, except 
 Mr. Smith, who seriously disputes his, because 
 there is an item of sixpence in it that he contends 
 ought not to be there. lie swears he will not pay 
 it, and the landlord swears he shall. We start for 
 the door, but Smith is stopped by the landlord, 
 backed by all the servants about the hotel, from the 
 head-waiter down to the bar-tender. The door is 
 closed on him, and, by main force, they wrench the 
 entire sum of sixpence from the enraged Smith, 
 before permitting him to depart. I will not say 
 that they frightened the brave Smith, but then a 
 dozen stalwart waiters, including the cook, with a 
 
278 hal's travels. 
 
 huge butclier-knife, is not just tlie crowd for one 
 man to contend with, when a sixpence will settle 
 the difficulty. The old gentleman thinks a little 
 hard because the rest of us did not back him in the 
 fight ; but I guess he will get over it soon. "We are 
 all glad of it ; for penuriousness is his besetting sin, 
 and we wanted to see him taken down. 
 
 We have a smooth and pleasant sail of thirty-six 
 hours, when the towers of Jaflfa (ancient Joppa) 
 loom up before us. The country before us is Pales- 
 tine ! We are about to tread upon holy ground. 
 We hardly realize it, but it is so. We leave the 
 steamer and go ashore in small boats, and here we 
 are, actually in Joppa — a city that is said to have 
 existed even before the flood, and to be the very 
 place where !N"oah built the ark. It was at this 
 port that Hiram, King of Tyre, landed the cedar 
 timbers which he sent from Lebanon, for the build- 
 ing of Solomon's temple. Hiram and Solomon 
 were very great friends. This, too, is the place 
 where Jonah came, when he wanted to run away, 
 to keep from going to Mneveh to preach. He 
 found a ship about to sail for Tarshish, and — but 
 you know the story about the whale. The Apostle 
 Peter came down here once, and lodged with one 
 Simon, a tanner, who had his tan-yard somewhere 
 by the seaside. Part of the house of Simon you 
 see standing here yet, and here in the court is a 
 well, by which stands a very large stone trough, 
 which they tell us was a vat used by Simon for tan- 
 ning leather. Peter had a remarkable dream while 
 
iial's travels. 279 
 
 sleeping upon the top of this house, an account of 
 which you will find by reading the ninth chapter of 
 Acts. During that same visit Peter performed a 
 wonderful miracle — even the raising of Tabitha 
 from the dead. Joppa, you see, is not a very large 
 place, but is very beautiful to look at — from a 
 distance. It is built upon a rock, which is in shape 
 something like a potato-hill. The houses are all of 
 stone, and very substantial. The streets arc from 
 four to six feet wide, and in many places we ascend 
 them by steps, like going up stairs. We all go in 
 a body now, and call upon Rev. Mr. Sanders, 
 American Consul and Missionary at Joppa. We 
 are delighted with the family, for they receive and 
 entertain us like home-folks. 
 
 But we must not tarry in Joppa. Our dragoman 
 has procured horses, and we must be on the road to 
 Jerusalem. We sleep at Ramleh (ancient Arima- 
 thea) to-night, some ten or twelve miles on the way. 
 Let us mount and be off. But wait! Smith, 
 Brown, and myself go down and take a sea-bath 
 first, after which we sally out at the Jerusalem gate, 
 (which, b}'' the way, is the only gate on the land 
 side of Joppa,) and take our way through the finest 
 orange -groves perhaps in the world; for Joppa, 
 you know, is noted for oranges. The different 
 groves or orchards are fenced with prickly-pear 
 hedges, which grow to enormous size. We see 
 some with trunks three feet in diameter. We soon 
 leave the orange - groves and enter upon a most 
 beautiful plain, everywhere blooming with flowers. 
 
280 nAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Two hours' ride brings us to Lydda, a very ancient 
 town ; the same where the Apostle Peter cured 
 Eneas of the palsy, after he had kept his bed eight 
 years. 
 
 About night we arrive at Ramleh, and sleep in a 
 convent, being well received and entertained by the 
 monks. Early in the morning we visit an old ruin, 
 with a very high tower, just outside the town, of the 
 history of which we know nothing. From its sum- 
 mit we have a fine view of the hill country towards 
 Jerusalem ; but owing .to the fog in that direction, 
 we cannot see Mount Carmel. 
 
 Leaving Ramleh, we soon strike into the moun- 
 tains, where locomotion is exceedingly difficult, 
 owing to the stony road, or, we might say, owing to 
 the absence of a road. It is a sterile country, the 
 rocks showing their teeth on every side, with scarce 
 soil enough to afford any green thing, except in the 
 little valleys. We pass through the valley of Aja- 
 lon, which will be for ever memorable, on account 
 of the great battle fought there between the Israel- 
 ites and Amorites, when Joshua commanded the 
 sun to stand still upon Gideon, and the moon in 
 the valley of Ajalon. You will find an account of 
 the fight somewhere in the book of Joshua. We 
 see little more of interest in the way, except the 
 tomb of Samuel, which is covered by a mosque on 
 the summit of the mountain. 
 
 We are getting near Jerusalem, and our impa- 
 tience to see the Holy City increases. We spur our 
 jaded horses on, and after climbing another and 
 
iial's travels. 281 
 
 another moiintaiu, the glorious sight appears ! We 
 pause and look. "We see little of the city except 
 the high walls and the domes of the highest houses. 
 We see that mountains are truly all around about 
 the city, and that the city and its surroundings are 
 beautiful. We exclaim, " Beautiful for situation, the 
 joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion, the city of 
 the Great King !" We enter by the Jaffa or Beth- 
 lehem gate, and wind our way through the dark, 
 narrow streets, to the Mediterranean Hotel, which 
 is hard by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We 
 are intensely interested in every thing we see ; for 
 there is not a locality in or around the city that is 
 not holy. 
 
 After spending a few days here, we shall go down 
 to Jericho, the Jordan, and the Dead Sea, then to 
 Hebron ; after which we will return here, and spend 
 a few more days before setting out to the North, 
 towards Damascus. 
 
 Yours truly, Hal. 
 
282 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 I HAVE now been ten days in and around Jerusa- 
 lem. I have gone about Zion ; have walked upon 
 the walls and told the towers thereof. Have stood 
 upon Calvary, and sat upon the Mount of Olives ! 
 Strolled down the valley of Hinnom, and humbled 
 myself in the valley of Jehoshaphat. Knelt in the 
 Garden of Gethsemane, and sung songs of rejoicing 
 upon the Mount of Ascension. Drunk from the 
 Pools of Solomon, and washed in the Pool of Siloam. 
 Worshipped in the city of Bethlehem, and rested in 
 the quiet village of Bethany. Sat in the shade of 
 the broad-spreading oaks of Mamre, and v»^alked 
 through the vineyards of Eshcol. Slaked my thirst 
 at the Fountain of Elisha, and bathed in the waters 
 of the Jordan. Have indeed wandered for many 
 days amid sacred scenes, and in holy places, of the 
 which I would love to present you a faithful account, 
 but that were impossible. The undertaking would 
 be too great. If, however, you are disposed to make 
 a little excursion, we will pay a hasty visit to some 
 of the interesting localities. 
 
 We will start from St. Stephen's Gate, on the east 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 283 
 
 side of the city. It is called the Gate of St. Ste- 
 phen because the martyr Stephen was led out here 
 to be stoned to death. Here, just within this gate, 
 is the Pool of Bethesda, the same around which the 
 "impotent folk, of blind, halt, and withered," used 
 to lie and wait for the troubling of the waters. 
 Here Jesus healed a man who had been diseased 
 thirty-eight years. The pool is three hundred and 
 sixty feet long, one hundred and thirty broad, and 
 thirty -five deep. It is almost dr}^ now. Leaving 
 this pool, we go up through the city along the Via 
 Dolorosa, or the " mournful way," so called because 
 it was up this street our Saviour went to Calvary 
 bearing his cross. The first place of interest we 
 reach is the house of Pilate, the same, or at least on 
 the same ground, where the mock trial was had and 
 Jesus condemned, and where he was scourged, and 
 a crown of thorns placed upon his head. From the 
 top of this house we look down upon the plateau 
 on which stood the Temple of Solomon. In the 
 midst of it, and just over the spot where the Ark of 
 the Covenant stood, stands the Mosque of Omar, 
 which is guarded strictly to prevent Christians en- 
 tering. This is the nearest approach we can make 
 to it, the Moslems believing that the touch of a 
 Christian would defile their sacred edifice. The 
 mosque is a fine octagonal building with a graceful 
 dome, and the square around it very beautiful — a 
 fine position for the splendid building which once 
 occupied it. 
 Leaving the house of Pilate, we proceed up the 
 
284 hal's travels. 
 
 street towards Calvary and the cliiircli of the Holy- 
 Sepulchre. Our guide points out many stations 
 along the way where incidents occurred as the Lord 
 passed along. The places where he fainted are 
 shown, and the place where the cross was taken from 
 him and placed upon Simon the Cyrenean. 
 
 We enter the church of the Holy Sepulchre, and 
 near the door see multitudes of people falling down 
 and kissing a large marble slab. This we are told 
 is the "stone of unction," where the body of the 
 Lord was embalmed for the burial. "Without paus- 
 ing, we hasten to the interior, and after crowding, 
 squeezing, pushing, and jamming for half an hour, 
 in a dense crowd of the most motley people we 
 have seen this side of Naples, we gain admittance 
 into the room in which is the Holy Sepulchre. We 
 stoop down and look in, and then enter the very 
 tomb in which the great Redeemer of mankind lay 
 for three days ! It is a holy place, and we enter it 
 with no little awe. Coming out of the sepulchre, 
 we ascend a flight of steps in another part of the 
 building, and stand upon Calvary, and see the very 
 rock in which the cross was planted. We only 
 tarry in these places for a moment, promising our- 
 selves more time upon some future occasion. The 
 crowd here is too dense for enjoyment, for this is 
 the season for the pilgrims to be in Jerusalem, and 
 they of course all flock flrst to the Church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre. These pilgrims are not just the 
 kind of people we would desire to see them. They 
 are rough, ignorant, superstitious creatures, many 
 
iial's travels. 285 
 
 of whom have journeyed from far countries to Jeru- 
 salem without once changing their garments, and 
 are, consequently, any thing hut clean. They be- 
 lieve that a pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre seals 
 their everlasting salvation, and they make the pil- 
 grimage at all hazards. The smell in such a crowd 
 is not so sweet as roses, and we only stop long 
 enough this time to see the most noted localities in 
 this large building, such as the tombs of Melchise- 
 dek, Godfrey, and Baldwin — the place where the Sa- 
 viour appeared to man}^ after ho was risen, the place 
 where the cross was found, etc. We observe in 
 passing that the church is exceedingly rich in gold 
 and silver lamps and chains, and some parts decked 
 out in such profusion of gilded ornaments as to ap- 
 pear ridiculous. The church is cut up into almost 
 innumerable chapels and compartments, and when 
 all the different sects claiming rights here are wor- 
 shipping, it is a Babel, if not worse. The Greeks, 
 Latins, Armenians, and Copts occupy different parts 
 of the house, and each sect does its level best to 
 make more noise than its neighbor, which is hard to 
 do. The Greeks are in the ascendant, and outsquall 
 the rest, but then the cracked and crazy organ of 
 the Latins comes in for a large share of glory in the 
 way of making a noise. These different sects hate 
 each other like cats and dogs, and, but for the body 
 of Turkish soldiers always on hand, would fight as 
 such. This fs a humiliating thought for Christians. 
 My friend Smith talks like a book on this subject, 
 and says if he had the power he would wipe the 
 
286 hal's travels. 
 
 whole establishment from the face of the earth, and 
 disperse the fanatical zealots who worship here to 
 the four quarters of the globe. Smith is right. 
 The scenes enacted here are disgraceful instead of 
 honoring to Christianity. 
 
 Leaving the church of the Holy Sepulchre, we tra- 
 verse the narrow, gloomy street through the Jewish 
 quarter of the town, and enter the Synagogue of 
 the Jews, where worship is going on. The house 
 is crowded with men, while the women stand out- 
 side in the open court. The leader of the meeting 
 delivers his discourse sitting, after which the whole 
 congregation join in chanting the Law. A scroll is 
 exhibited, and the people seem almost frantic at the 
 sight of it, and as many as can possibly do so, rush 
 to and kiss it or the veil which had concealed it. It 
 is a copy of the Law — very ancient. Their worship 
 seems to be sincere, and their reverence for the Law 
 of Moses profound indeed. I believe these Jews 
 worship God in spirit and in truth, and look perhaps 
 more anxiously for the first coming of the Messiah 
 than Christians do for his second coming. 
 
 Leaving the Synagogue, we wind through some 
 narrow crooked lanes, which it would be vain to 
 attempt without a guide, and reach a section of the 
 ancient wall that surrounded the Temple of Solomon. 
 This is the "Jews' Place of Wailing." Here the Jews 
 have been permitted for many centuries to approach 
 the precincts of the Temple of their 'fathers, and 
 bathe its hallowed stones with their tea.rs. It is a 
 touching scene : Jews of both sexes, of all ages, and 
 
hal's travels. 287 
 
 from every quarter of the earth, are here raising up 
 a united cry of lamentation over a desolated sanc- 
 tuary. Old men may be seen tottering up to these 
 massive stones, kissing them with fond rapture, 
 while tears stream down their cheeks. Well may 
 the poor Jews repeat the words of the Psalmist, 
 (Ixxix, 1, 4, 5 :) " O God, the heathen are come into 
 thine inheritance ; thy hoi}'' temple have they de- 
 filed ; they have laid Jerusalem on heaps. "We are 
 become a reproach to our neighbors, a scorn and 
 derision to them that are round about us. How 
 long, Lord ? wilt thou be angry for ever ? Shall 
 thy jealousy burn like fire?" These Jews may be 
 seen here in this little paved area weeping and wail- 
 ing every Friday. 
 
 "We now leave the Place of "Wailing, and emerge 
 from the city at the Zion gate, and stand upon that 
 portion of the hill of Zion which is now without the 
 walls. It is a "ploughed field" now, according to 
 the propliecy concerning it. Not far from the gate 
 is the tomb of David. A large mosque stands over 
 it, and it is- considered by Moslems too holy a place 
 for Cliristians to enter. So we cannot see the tomb 
 of the great Shepherd King, the mosque being 
 closely guarded. Near the tomb is the house of 
 Caiaphas, now an Armenian convent. "We enter, 
 and are shown the little room in which Jesus was 
 imprisoned ori the same night in which he was be- 
 trayed and led away from the garden of Geth- 
 semane to (Oaiaphas. "We also see the rock which 
 
 / 
 
288 hal's travels. 
 
 was rolled before the door of the sepulchre, and 
 which the angels rolled away. 
 
 We pass on round the city wall, and at the Joppa 
 Gate enter the Tower of Hippicus, in which Ilerod 
 had his palace. David's palace was also here. It- 
 is a very strong fortress, and bears marks of great 
 antiquity. Scattered along the different roads that 
 lead away from this gate we see many poor lepers 
 sitting begging. They are the most pitiable-look- 
 ing objects we ever saw. I suppose they sit here 
 now just as they did in the time of our Saviour ; 
 but there is none to heal them now. We see these 
 miserable wretches sitting without every gate. 
 From this Joppa gate we go down into the Valley 
 of Hinnom, which lies between Mount Zion and the 
 Hill of Evil Council. Passing by the upper and 
 lower pools of Gihon, which are immense reservoirs, 
 we enter the deeper portion of the valley, and sit- 
 ting down in a quiet shad}\ place, beneath the olive 
 trees, where the early sprnjg grass is green and 
 beautiful, we sing some of th^ songs of Zion. Con- 
 tinuing down the valley, we «ome to the well En- 
 Rogel, at the junction of the vaAjeys of Hinnom and 
 Jehoshaphat. It was at this well Lsjiat Adonijah once 
 got up a great feast, or barbecJae, to which he 
 invited all the people, and in th>^ midst of the 
 hilarity he caused himself to be proclaimed king, 
 instead of his father David. Adonijah, like his 
 brother Absalom, was an ambitious yoi\ng man, but 
 not very successful. This well is one hiandred and 
 
iial's travels. 289 
 
 twenty-five feet deep. The ^water is sweet and 
 good. 
 
 Leaving the well, En-Rogel, we now turn up the 
 Valley of Jehoshaphat, following the road along the 
 margin of the brook Kidron. Two or three hun- 
 dred yards bring us to the King's Gardens, a beau- 
 tiful spot, highly cultivated. Hard by is the Pool 
 of Siloam, into which we descend and drink of the 
 pure water, which is clear as crj'stal. Nehemiah 
 (iii. 15) mentions the King's Gardens as being be- 
 side the Pool of Siloah. On the opposite side of 
 the valley from this pool is the village of Siloam, 
 clinging to the rocky side of the Mount of Offence. 
 It was here the tower fell and killed the eighteen 
 men. As to the Pool of Siloam, you of course 
 remember the story of the man who was born blind, 
 and restored to sight by washing in this pool. We 
 all likewise wash in it. Not far above this pool is 
 the Fountain of the Virgin, at which, says the 
 legend, women accused of adultery in former times 
 were compelled to drink. If innocent, it harmed 
 them not; but if guilt}^, they died immediately. 
 When the Virgin Mary was accused, she submitted 
 to the ordeal, and thus established her innocence. 
 Hence its name. We now pass innumerable 
 tombs. The slope of the hill to the right is full of 
 them, and many are hewn out in the rocky clitfs, 
 and now stand open and ghastly. Iligher up the 
 valley we pass the tombs of Absalom, Zcchariah, 
 and the Apostle James. They are near together, 
 are large and finely ornamented tombs, cut in the 
 10 
 
290 hal's travels. 
 
 side of the mountain. The tomb of Absalom is 
 the finest, but the massive stone monument is 
 defaced by the millions of pebbles that have been 
 cast against it by the Jews, who continue to this 
 day to throw stones at it as they pass. Absalom 
 was a comely youth, and no doubt had a most 
 beautiful suit of hair, but he was an undutiful, 
 rebellious son, and the Jews have not forgotten his 
 wicked rebellion. Hence they cast stones at his 
 tomb. 
 
 Coiitinuing up the valley, we reach the tomb of 
 the Virgin Mary, a very large grotto, into whicli 
 we descend by an easy flight of stone steps. It is 
 finely decorated, and scores of gold and silver lamps 
 are kept burning here continually, before and abov^ 
 the resting-place of the mother of our Saviour. 
 The body of the Virgin's mother also lies in this 
 grotto. 
 
 A stone's-throw from the tomb of the Virgin is 
 the garden of Gethsemane, on what may be called 
 the first bench of the Mount of Olives. It is en- 
 closed with a high wall, and occupies perhaps an 
 acre of ground. We enter by a low iron door, and 
 find the garden well kept, being ornamented with 
 many pretty flowers. There are a dozen or more 
 olive trees in the garden which bear marks of very 
 great age. At the lower side of the garden, in 
 a little summer-house, we all assemble and join in 
 religious service : reading the Scripture account of 
 the sufterings and betrayal in this garden, singing, 
 and prayer. After gathering a small bunch of 
 
hal's travels. 291 
 
 jQowers, we leave the garden, and ascend to the 
 summit of the Mount of Olives. What a splendid 
 view we have from here ! We see the entire city. 
 Every house is in view, and as nearly every one is 
 surmounted with a dome, the scene is very pleasing. 
 We rest here and gaze at the city and its environs 
 for a long time. Our Saviour has sat here many 
 times and overlooked his heloved city — ay, and 
 wept over it too. We open the book and read the 
 account of his weeping over it, and of his oft retir- 
 ing here to pray. And now we read of his tri- 
 umphal ride upon the ass from here into the city, 
 when he entered the Temple and drove out the 
 money-changers and them that bought and sold in 
 his Father's house. From where we sit we see the 
 "gate called Beautiful," through which he passccf. 
 It is walled up now, but we see the beautiful double 
 arch in the wall. While our party rest and read, 
 we climb an olive tree (there are hundreds of them 
 still upon the Mount) and cut several walking-canes, 
 which we will carrj- home as souvenirs. We get 
 half a dozen, which we shall present to Rev. Mr. 
 
 and others, if we are fortunate enough to get 
 
 them home. We will come to-nio-ht and irct more, 
 as the keeper of the grounds is coming this way. 
 
 We now go across the hill and descend to the 
 quiet village of Bethany. It is but a Sabbath-day's 
 journey (about two and a half miles) from the city. 
 We find the village cosily nestled in a little glen 
 surrounded by high hills, the sides of which are 
 covered with olive, fig, apricot, and almond trees. 
 
292 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Many of tlie houses are in ruins, but still there is a 
 considerable population. "We first sit down on the 
 grass, in the shade, and read in the Scriptures about 
 Martha and Mary and Lazarus, and about the great 
 miracle wrought here. Then descend into the cave 
 which was the tomb of Lazarus. Coming out, we 
 go up the hill a little way to the ruins of an old stone 
 building which is said to be the same in which that 
 happy family lived, and where our blessed Saviour 
 used to retire and commune with them as his dearly 
 beloved friends. The house of Simon the leper is 
 also shown, close by. Gathering a few flowers, we 
 retrace our steps towards the city, and enter the 
 gate of St. Stephen, by the sheep-market. Here we 
 find more lepers. They are about the only beggars 
 we find iu Jerusalem. "We pass through the city, 
 and emerge from the Damascus gate at the north, 
 and go through a large olive-grove to the Tombs of 
 the Kings — massive excavations in the rock, where 
 it is said the shepherd kings of Israel were en- 
 tombed. A description of the deep recesses and 
 windings of these excavations would be profitless. 
 
 Returning to the city by the Bethlehem gate, we 
 mount the wall and make the circuit of the city, a 
 long but interesting walk. 
 
 Descending from the wall, we take a look at the 
 interior of the city. Half a minute's walk satisfies 
 us that Jerusalem is a city more pleasant to look at 
 from a distance than to walk in. The streets are 
 from eight to twelve feet wide, and in many places 
 arched over, which renders them quite gloomy. 
 
ual's travels. 293 
 
 They are substantially paved, but as no rubbish 
 ever seems to be removed from them, they are not 
 so clean as could be desired. The main streets, 
 and especially the bazaars, are densely crowded with 
 people. It is hard to make way through some of 
 them. We see every variety of costume, and every 
 cast of feature, and hear almost every language that 
 is spoken under the sun. Xo danger of losing our 
 way in Jerusalem ; for the streets cross each other 
 at right angles, and there are various landmarks to 
 guide us. The bazaars are well supplied with 
 almost every variety of goods, which look like they 
 have been handled for years. Beads seem to be the 
 principal article of merchandise in that portion of 
 the city convenient to the Church of the Holy Se- 
 pulchre ; nor are mother-of-pearl crucifixes, and 
 other ornaments, forgotten. I think several wagons 
 mic-ht be loaded with these thins^s. 
 
 But we must not long linger in Jerusalem at this 
 time. However interesting the ground on which 
 we walk, we must leave it; for there are other 
 places intensely interesting that must be seen. 
 We love to sojourn in the city where the Lord of 
 the whole earth has walked and talked and suffered 
 and died ; to walk over the ground and gaze upon 
 scenes once familiar to David and Solomon, and the 
 kings and priests who succeeded them ; where Peter, 
 and Paul, and James, and John, and the other apos- 
 tles, have preached the gospel of Jesus Christ ; to 
 linger about the hill of Zion and Mount Moriah, 
 where the ark of the covenant rested, and where 
 
294 hal's travels. 
 
 God himself was wont to meet face to face with his 
 peculiar people. But we must leave these scenes 
 for a season. Our dragoman tells us that the horses 
 and all things are now ready for our departure for 
 Hebron. We shall now be dwellers in tents for a 
 few weeks. We are all glad of it ; for there is a 
 romance about tent-life really charming, especially 
 at this season of the year, when the sky is cloudless, 
 the air balmy, and the whole face of the earth co- 
 vered with beautiful wild flowers. 
 
 Mrs. Smith is almost crazy to get under way. 
 Smith has loaded himself down with pistols and 
 swords, and swears he is a match for forty Bedouins ; 
 which gentry are said to infest the region through 
 which we travel, and sometimes relieve travellers 
 of their extra change and clothing. He has also 
 bought him a lance, to which he has fastened the 
 American flag, the same we had on the jSTile. 
 
 The horses are brought to our hotel door. We 
 mount and issue forth from the Bethlehem gate, 
 and file down through the valley of Hinnom, the 
 gallant Captain Smith leading the party. I wish I 
 could paint you a picture of our leader, as he now 
 appears at the head of the column. He looks vene- 
 rable, for his gray beard is long and flowing. He 
 has ignored his hat, and now wears an enormous 
 turban and tarbouche. Is almost buried to his 
 waist in high-top boots, with huge spurs attached 
 to them. A red silk Damascus shawl around his 
 waist, in which are a couple of long navy pistols, 
 and two more hung at his saddle-bow; his long 
 
II A L ' S TRAVELS. 295 
 
 lance gracefnll}^ couched, and the stars and stripes 
 gayly streaming from his head. And then to see 
 how proudly the old gentleman sits upon his Arab 
 steed — the picture is refreshing. We are all proud 
 of Smith, feeling assured that, with him to lead, we 
 shall have a safe passage through all the Bedouin 
 tribes in Syria. 
 
 We take the high road to Hebron, which, in any 
 other country but this, would not deserve the name 
 of road at all. The iirst object of interest, that 
 attracts our attention along the way is 
 
 But perhaps I had better reserve the account of 
 our excursion for another letter, which I will write 
 when I feel like it. I am tired now. 
 
 Yours truly, Hal. 
 
296 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 JERUSALEM TO HEBRON — THE JORDAN, DEAD SEA, 
 JERICHO, ETC. 
 
 My last letter left onr party winding up the "Hill 
 of Evil Counsel" from the valley of Ilinnom, having 
 just emerged from the Bethlehem gate of Jerusalem, 
 and taken the high-road to Hebron. With your 
 permission, we will now continue that journey. Our 
 tents and camp-equipage have gone forward on bag- 
 gage mules, and we will amble on at our leisure. 
 Smith is riding proudly at our head, looking as 
 much like a brigand chief as civilized man ever 
 looked ; and, to confess the truth, his followers (ex- 
 cept the ladies) look little less suspicious than him- 
 self. The only redeeming feature in the picture is 
 the American flag, waving gracefully from the spear- 
 head of our gallant and venerable leader, whose 
 horse is rearing, pitching, and curvating like a tight- 
 rigged ship on a rough sea. We should like it if 
 our friends could see that horse. Smith calls him 
 "Dare-devil," and a dare-devil he is, and no mistake. 
 A "hard"-looking animal he is, but "mettle" to the 
 back-bone. Has a long and exceedingly gaunt body 
 — legs ditto. A slim neck, which inclines to bow 
 
II A L ' S TRAVELS. 297 
 
 up instead of down, and the bead attached to it is 
 longer than a flour-barrel. His ears point straight 
 up, and liis tail, almost innocent of hair, points 
 straight out behind. Baskets could be hung upon 
 his hip-bones. But what an eye ! It is one of the 
 most villainous eyes ever stuck into a horse's head, 
 and protrudes so far that 3*ou might knock it olF 
 with a stick, and never touch the head ! "We greatly 
 admire this "Arab steed," and so does Smith, who 
 selected him solely on account of his villainous eye. 
 The rest of our horses were like unto Smith's in 
 appearance, but wanting in mettle. They all have 
 "bottom," however, and possess that quality pecu- 
 liarly necessary to horses in Palestine — i. e., the 
 ability to climb ladders, stone walls, and to walk on 
 stilts. None but those who have travelled over the 
 roads of this country will understand what this 
 means. 
 
 The morning is a delicious one. The gentle 
 spring sun is just warm enough to make us feel 
 comfortable. The whole face of the earth seems to 
 be covered with wild flowers of every hue and color, 
 and we all press forward with glad hearts and 
 buoyant hopes. The natives stare at us as we 
 clatter over the hard stone road, in our unique cos- 
 tumes, but in our hilarity we heed them not. 
 
 The first objectofintcrestthatattractsourattentiou 
 in the way, is a well in the middle of the road, called 
 the "Well of the Wise Men," because there is a tra- 
 dition that the wise men who came from the East 
 to Bethlehem to worship the infant Saviour, drank 
 
298 ual's travels. 
 
 and rested here after their conference with that 
 bloody villain, Herod. One hour farther on, and 
 we reach the tomb of Eachel, the wife of Jacob, and 
 mother of Joseph and Benjamin. The tomb is en- 
 closed in a little white stone building, and is alike 
 venerated by all sects — Jews, Christians, and Mos- 
 lems. The account of the death and burial of Kachel 
 in this place is familiar to every Bible reader. It 
 is brief and graphic, and we read it here on the spot 
 with more than ordinary interest : " They journeyed 
 from Bethel, and there was but a little way to come 
 to Ephrath. . . . And Rachel died, and was buried 
 in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And 
 Jacob set a pillar upon her grave ; and that is the 
 pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day." Lamps are 
 kept continually burning before this tomb. Half 
 an hour farther is Bethlehem, but as we have set 
 out for Hebron, we leave Bethlehem to the left and 
 go forward. Two hours' ride brings us to the 
 "Pools of Solomon." These pools are so much 
 more magnificent than we expected to find them, 
 that we are struck with astonishment. We had not 
 expected to see works of half the magnitude. But 
 then we must remember that Solomon was a very 
 rich man, and generally "bored with a big auger:" 
 that is, did up things on a large scale. He cer- 
 tainly did in the way of building pools, for here 
 they are yet to speak for thcDiselves. They are 
 mostly excavated in the solid rock. The largest 
 one is two hundred yards long, two hundred feet 
 wide, and fifty feet deep ! The other two are im- 
 
hal's travels. 299 
 
 mense, but not quite so largo as the first. They are 
 perhaps half full of water now. Here King Solomon 
 had his country-seat — his gardens and vineyards — 
 and here too, no doubt, he, with his many wives 
 and concubines, used to have good times wandering 
 through the groves and gardens, and bathing in 
 these pools. 
 
 Leaving the pools, we continue towards Hebron, 
 over the ancient road which was doubtless trodden 
 centuries upon centuries ago by Abraham, Isaac, 
 and Jacob, and many prophets, priests, and kings. 
 The road is sadly out of repair now, and as we view 
 the great heaps of stones over which our horses pick 
 their way, we are tempted to doubt the possibility 
 of war -chariots ever having passed this way. The 
 country through which Ave pass is mostly barren and 
 desolate, and nothing of peculiar interest attracts 
 our attention until we find ourselves entering the 
 vineyards of Eshcol. Here we find cultivation 
 carried to perfection. Every hill-side (and there is 
 scarcely any thing else) is terraced, and every foot 
 of ground that can bear a vine is planted, and the 
 stones so arranged as to prevent the earth washing. 
 Every vineyard has its stone "tower" in the centre, 
 and in some places we can see as many as fifty of 
 these "towers" at one time. These vineyards were 
 once owned and cultivated by the gigantic sons of 
 Anak, and it was from here that the spies sent out 
 from the Israclitish camp obtained the great clusters 
 which so astonished their brethren. Eshcol would 
 be a good place to pass through in the grape season. 
 
300 iial's travels. 
 
 We now approach Hebron. Its frowning stone 
 walls and towers loom up before us. We do not 
 enter the city now, but proceed to our tents, which 
 are pitched in a pretty green common just before the 
 town, hard by the pool over which King David hung 
 the assassins of Ishbosheth, as related in 2 Samuel 
 iv. 12. This is our first entree into camp, and we 
 are hugely pleased with the prospect. All things 
 look neat and in order, and we dismount and look 
 about us. Here are four tents. The first and 
 largest is given up to Mr. and Mrs. Smith, Miss 
 Kissiah, and Miss Jemima; the second to Davis, 
 Green, and Pipkins ; the third to Jones, Brown, 
 and myself, and the fourth is for the dining-saloon 
 and servants. We glance at our furniture, and are 
 astonished at the great display made by the few 
 packages brought on the mules. The table is al- 
 ready spread, and is groaning (tables always "groan," 
 you know) beneath the weight of a smoking dinner 
 which has been got up with astonishing rapidity by 
 Demetri, our new cook. The table is large enous^h 
 for ten persons to sit around comfortably, and yet it 
 can be rolled up into a bundle so small that you can 
 almost carry it under your arm. Ten chairs sur- 
 round it, which can be reduced in like proportion. 
 As to our bedsteads, or cots, they can be rolled up 
 in bundles little larger than so many umbrellas. 
 Those two comparatively small boxes carry all our 
 table and kitchen furniture. One mule carries both, 
 besides the "kitchen," (simply a sheet-iron trough 
 with holes punched in the bottom, and folding legs,) 
 
hal's travels. 301 
 
 and a bag of charcoal to cook with, firewood being 
 a luxury rarel}- enjoyed in Palestine. In short, our 
 household and kitchen furniture is complete, and 
 we are utterl}^ astonished to see with what fiicility 
 it can be packed (including tents and all) and trans- 
 ported from place to place. 
 
 Now, although we are somewliat elated with our 
 new mode of life — the luxury and novelt}" of living 
 in tents — still there is a slight sense of uneasiness 
 in the camp this evening. We are surrounded 
 with a horde of the natives, whose savage frowns 
 are any thing but pleasant. These Hebronites are 
 a savage, fierce people, and hate "Christian dogs," 
 as they call us, with a perfect hatred ; and we are 
 therefore on our best behavior. Smith bustles 
 about, and tries to appear unconcerned, but he 
 frankly acknowledges the corn to me that they are 
 not just the kind of people with whom he would 
 like a muss. Were they Egyptians, or ordinary 
 Arabs, Smith's "koorbash" would have played havoc 
 among them in short order ; but they are not Egyp- 
 tians nor ordinary Arabs, so he lets them alone, 
 and wisely, too. It would be a great relief to all of 
 us if they would leave, but we dare not tell them so, 
 for fear of a shower of stones. 
 
 Hebron is perhaps the oldest inhabited city in the 
 world. We don't know^ its age, but in Numbers 
 xiii. 22, we read that it was built " seven j^ears be- 
 fore Zoan in Egypt." When Zoan was built we do 
 not know, except that it was built seven years after 
 Hebron. That must have been a long time ago, for 
 
302 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Zoan has been a lieap of ruins for centuries. "We 
 care little, however, about the age of Hebron. "We 
 know that Abraham used to live here, and that his 
 bones are still here, resting quietly in the cave of 
 Machpelah. This "faithful" man and "friend of 
 God" was buried here more than thirty-seven hun- 
 dred 3'ears ago, and during all that time his descend- 
 ants have reverenced the spot, and Christians and 
 Moslems do the same. The remains of Isaac and 
 Jacob, Sarah, Rebecca, and Leah, are also buried 
 in this cave, "With the exception of Jerusalem, no 
 place on earth is more hallowed by high and sacred 
 associations than this venerable old city of Hebron. 
 Here the old patriarchs communed with God, and 
 received the promises of the covenant. David once 
 lived here — was anointed king, and made this his 
 capital for some seven or eight years. It was 
 here in Hebron that Joab assassinated Abner. 
 His tomb is within a stone's-throw of our encamp- 
 ment. The" rebellious Absalom, whose tomb we saw 
 in the valley of Jehoshaphat, made this his head- 
 quarters during the time of his rebellion against his 
 good old father David. 
 
 Hebron is a much more imposing city than we 
 expected to find it. The houses are all built of 
 large hewn stone, and look like they might stand 
 for ever, for they stand upon a rock. It contains 
 ten or twelve thousand inhabitants, all fierce Mo- 
 hammedans, except a few miserable Jews, who only 
 exist by suiFerance. Tliere are no Christians. In- 
 deed, it is hardly safe for Christians to visit here, as 
 
Hal's travels. 303 
 
 wc arc uow doino;, mucli less reside among these 
 bigoted, fanatical Moslems. Visitors are fortnnate 
 indeed if they get awaj'' from here without being 
 insulted, if not stoned from the heights above the 
 camping-ground. 
 
 Our fancy does not lead us to wander through the 
 streets of Hebron to any considerable extent. It is 
 not pleasant to be followed up and hooted at by 
 crowds of yellow-skinned devils ; we therefore con- 
 tent ourselves with a visit to the mosque which 
 stands over the Cave of Machpelah, and make as near 
 an approach to the bones of the old patriarchs and 
 their wives as possible — no Christian being allowed 
 under any pretence to enter the cave. We also visit 
 the tomb of Abner, and the ancient* pool before 
 alluded to. 
 
 Having seen all of Hebron that we desire to see, 
 we start back towards Jerusalem over the same road 
 wo came, making a little detour just after leaving 
 the city, to see the last surviving oak in the vale of 
 Mamre. It was here that old Father Abraham first 
 pitched his tent, and dug a well, which still aftbrds 
 an ample supply of excellent water. We drink of 
 it, and rest beneath the shade of this broad-spread- 
 ing oak, and read in our Bibles about the visit of 
 the angels to the old patriarch, when he dwelt per- 
 haps just here where we sit. The scene around us 
 is one of the most beautiful in Palestine, the rugged 
 hills standing out in bold relief, each possessing a 
 distinct feature of its own, unlike the hills of any 
 other country, while the rich olive-groves and vine- 
 
304 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 yards remind us the wliile that we are not in the 
 land of the West. We feel that we are upon holy 
 ground. Every view the eye rests upon was seen 
 as we now see it by Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, by 
 Samuel, David, and Solomon. The cities they built 
 or dwelt in are now heaps of ruins, but the features 
 of nature remain unchanged — the mountains, the 
 valleys, the fountains, the rocks are all here. Many 
 a time and oft have these good men of old walked 
 up and down this lovel}'- vale of Mamre, commun- 
 ing with the great God himself, and covenanting to 
 serve him faithfully. They, too, like other men, 
 have wept before the Cave of Machpelah. 
 
 But beautiful as is the scene, and pleasant as is 
 the shadow *of this brave old oak, we must not 
 linger here. 'No, the Vale of Mamre, the well and 
 oak where Abraham and righteous Lot have oft 
 communed together, the very ground where angels 
 have stood, and the vineyards of Eshcol, must all 
 be left behind, for we must rest in Bethlehem to- 
 day. We cut a few slips from the grape-vines to 
 carry home with us, and then take the highway to- 
 wards the city of David. At the Pools of Solomon 
 we rest, and partake of our noonday repast. We 
 here leave the Jerusalem road, and strike off" to the 
 right, down a beautiful valley, filled with clusters of 
 olive, fig, almond, and apricot trees. Two hours' 
 ride brings us to Bethlehem, Avhose streets we tra- 
 verse, feeling that every footfall is upon holy ground. 
 Our party enter the gates of the city chanting that 
 good old song, 
 
 "The star, the star of Bethlehem." 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 305 
 
 "We go first, of course, to the " Church of the Na- 
 tivity," whose sacred walls we enter with awe and 
 reverence. The story of the Child of Bethlehem 
 is known to the world. We enter the grotto, and 
 stand before the very place where the Saviour was 
 born. Near by is the manger in which he was 
 laid. We open our Bibles and read the interest- 
 ing story, which seems now more interesting than 
 ever before. We read about the wise men coming 
 in and worshipping the child, and presenting their 
 costly gifts ; and also about the shepherds coming 
 in from the field, after the light had shone about 
 them, and the angel, with a multitude of the hea- 
 venly host, had appeared unto them, praising God and 
 saying, " Glory to God in the highest, and on earth 
 peace, good-will toward men." These shepherds 
 knew that a Prince and Saviour was born into the 
 world, and " they returned glorifying and praising 
 God for all things that they had heard and seen." 
 This place was a stable then, and a gloomy place, 
 no doubt ; but Joseph and Mary were thrust here 
 " because there was no room for them in the inn." 
 This grotto with its costly trappings, and the other 
 eacred places about this great old church, have been 
 so often described that we deem it unnecessary to 
 do more than to look on and try to realize the fact 
 that we are actually in the very place where Jesus 
 was born. 
 
 Bethlehem, although an imposing little city, as 
 seen from a distance, is not a place in which one 
 desires to tarry long. When we have seen the 
 
306 iial's travels. 
 
 ''Church of the Nativity," and its appendages, we 
 depart toward Jericho, the Jordan, and the Dead 
 Sea, not forgetting to take with us a guard of Be- 
 douins — thieves whom we hire to protect us from 
 other thieves ; for there is nothing more certain 
 than that, if a man undertakes to go down to 
 Jericho without an escort, he will fall among thieves, 
 and be left wounded and naked on the way. The 
 country through which we pass is indescribable. 
 The hills are utterly barren, and look as though a 
 scathing lire had just passed over them, consuming 
 every green or combustible thing. Smith says these 
 hills seem to have been dropped down at random, 
 and then stirred up. If they looked in old times 
 as now, I wonder much that Moses did not turn 
 away with disgust when he viewed them from 
 Mount Pisgah. To be gathered to his fathers just 
 at that time, should have been matter of congratu- 
 lation, rather than regret, with the great leader of 
 Israel. But they possibly may have been fruitful 
 then, or he may have had a spiritual view of the 
 goodly country beyond these hills. 
 
 But we must hasten on, or this letter will be too 
 long, if it is not already verging that way. It is 
 hardly worth the time and space to record the con- 
 fusion, not to say consternation, into which our 
 party is thrown by our foremost escort, who comes 
 galloping back at full speed, with the startling in- 
 formation that a large force of robbers is in a ra- 
 vine just ahead, waiting for us. It is now that our 
 gallant Smith shows his "grit." He takes com- 
 
hal's travels. 307 
 
 maud in earnest, forms us into compact order, and 
 takes his position at the head. Examines his pis- 
 tols, couches his lance, and, looking as tierce as a 
 thunder-cloud, puts "Dare-devil" into a gallop, and 
 cries, "Come on, boj's!" We follow, each man 
 ready witli his revolver, keeping a sharp lookout. 
 We gallop on, and on, and on, and finally reach the 
 margin of the Dead Sea, without meeting with the 
 eneni}', or even seeing his track. We now know 
 that the alarm was a mere trick of our guard, to see 
 if we were spunky. Had we shown the " white 
 feather," they w^ould have robbed us themselves. 
 All honor to Smith for his gallant bearing on the 
 trying occasion. 
 
 We arrive at the shores of the Dead Sea. Like 
 everybody else who comes here, we pull off our 
 clothes and "pitch in," and, like everybody else, 
 we of course find the water intensely salt and tre- 
 mendously buoyant. We lie on the surface, and 
 float without an effort. Come out, and by the time 
 we get our clothes on, are encrusted with a thin 
 layer of salt. Fill our bottles with water, pick 
 up a few handsome pebbles, mount our horses, and 
 make tracks for the Jordan, to Avash the salt oft' our 
 bodies, which begins to sting and prickle rather 
 uncomfortably. 
 
 An hour's ride across the plain brings us to the 
 banks of the Jordan, whose rushing waters come 
 down like a mill-race. Before us, beyond the river, 
 the mountains of Moab loom up, dark and frown- 
 ing. We see the peaks of Pisgah, and also Mount 
 
308 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Gilead. These mountaiiis and this river we have 
 read of from onr youth up, and we now look upon 
 them with gladness. We are soon stripped and in 
 the cooling waters, splaghing and diving in the 
 most hilarious manner ; for it is a great relief to 
 get the salt washed off. After bathing to our 
 hearts' content, we come out and sing that good 
 old song, 
 
 "On Jordan's stormy banks I stand," etc., 
 
 which certainly are not "stormy" now. Eat our 
 lunch, and, under the shade of the trees upon the 
 bank, we read in our Bibles about "those days" 
 when John came preaching and baptizing, perhaps 
 in this very place. It Avas here that the great 
 multitudes flocked to hear the preaching of John ; 
 and it was here, or hereabouts, that the Saviour 
 himself was baptized, when the Spirit of God 
 descended upon and proclaimed him the Son of the 
 Almighty. And it was in this immediate neighbor- 
 hood that Joshua led the conquering hosts of Israel 
 over into the promised land. 
 
 But evening approaches, and we must needs sleep 
 at Jericho to-night, and that is two hours away ; a 
 very pleasant ride, however, across the level plain. 
 Our ride is enlivened, too, by a tilting match be- 
 tween Smith and Brown, who seize this first oppor- 
 tunity (it is the first level ground we have passed 
 over) to test the real mettle and speed of their 
 charges. They perform their parts to admiration, 
 both horses and riders, until toward the close of the 
 
nAL'S TRAVELS. 309 
 
 fun, when Smith is thrown at least twenty feet into 
 the midst of a patch of thorn-bushes ; from which 
 we extricate the old gentleman with no little diffi- 
 culty. He is wounded and bleeding, and will bear 
 the marks of the thorns longer than his sojourn in 
 Palestine. His spear-head is broken off, but our 
 dragoman repairs the damage soon after we get into 
 camp. 
 
 Jericho we find a miserable village, filled with 
 the poorest kind of Arabs. Even the traces of the 
 old walls which fell down at the blowing of the 
 rams' horns are gone. The glory of Jericho has 
 long since departed, and its palaces are heaps of 
 ruins, outside the village. Our tents are pitched in 
 a beautiful situation on the banks of the brook 
 Cherith, which flows from the fountain of Elisha — 
 the same fountain whose waters were once bitter, 
 but were healed and made sweet by that prophet. 
 He healed them by putting in a cruse of salt, and 
 they remain healed nnto this day. There are re- 
 mains of an old house here, which tradition says is 
 the house of Zaccheus, where our Saviour stopped 
 when in Jericho. The tree that Zaccheus climbed 
 is not to be seen. Jesus was in Jericho when word 
 was brought him that his friend Lazarus was sick 
 at Bethany. "We leave our encampment here, and 
 follow the same road which our Saviour travelled, 
 when going up to Bethany to raise Lazarus from 
 the dead. About half-way to Jerusalem we pass by 
 the ruins of a large stone building, said to have 
 been once an inn, possibly the same in which the 
 
310 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Samaritan lodged tlie poor fellow who fell among 
 thieves. The road all the way to Bethany is despi- 
 cable, and the country most of the way utterly bar- 
 ren, and encumbered with large rocks. Our horses 
 know their business, however, and take us safely 
 through. Smith says he don't believe there is a more 
 truthful passage in Scripture than that which says, 
 
 "Jordan is a hard road to travel ;" 
 
 and we all agree with Smith ; for a worse road is 
 not to be found. 
 
 We pass through Bethany — over a shoulder of 
 the Mount of Olives — through the valley of Jehosh- 
 aphat, and again enter the walls of Jerusalem, 
 where we shall remain a few days, and then proceed 
 on our tour in the Korth of Palestine and Syria. 
 Adieu. Hal. 
 
ual's travels. 311 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 JERUSALEM TO TIBERIAS. 
 
 Inasmuch as you accompanied our party on a 
 tour from Jerusalem to Hebron, the Dead Sea, the 
 Jordan, Jericho, and back to Jerusalem, it is but 
 right and proper that you continue with us during 
 the rest of our wanderings in the Holy Land. 
 Therefore, if you will consent to go, you shall see 
 what you shall see. 
 
 Great preparations have been made for our depart- 
 ure to the Il^orth. Smith has been the main spirit 
 in fitting out the expedition, and has thereby 
 brought the rest of us under renewed obligations to 
 him. I do not know how we should get along 
 without Smith, for he is certainly an "institution," 
 and the most active one I ever knew. He attends 
 to every thing — dragoman, servants, and horses — 
 and when things don't go to suit him, he swears 
 like a trooper, in Arabic — for he has picked up at 
 least twenty words of the language, which he uses 
 upon all occasions — especially when in a passion, 
 and that is more than half the time. (Smith says 
 it is wonderful how soon a man picks up the Ian- 
 guage of a country.) Through his influence we 
 
312 hal's travels. 
 
 have almost doubled tlie number of our arms, for 
 there are frightful rumors afloat about the ferocious- 
 ness of the Bedouin Arabs in the mountains ; and 
 it is said that the plains of Sharon and Esdraelon 
 swarm with banditti. But our party is large, and 
 we stand in but little fear of the savage descendants 
 of Ishmael. With our bold captain to lead, we 
 feel as if we could ride through a troop of them. 
 
 But we must be under way. Pleasant as it is to 
 linger about Jerusalem, we can stay no longer. 
 The jingle of the bells of the baggage mules re- 
 minds us that our tents will be pitched at Bethel 
 to-night, and to reach them we must be stirring. 
 While our horses are being got ready, we watch 
 those patient mules filing away under their heavy 
 burdens, and pity them. There are Mrs. Smith's 
 two great heavy trunks strapped across the back of 
 one little animal, so small that it could be put 
 inside of either one of them, and have ample stable- 
 room. It is astonishing to see the amount of bag- 
 gage carried by a fashionable woman. One-tenth 
 part of the contents of these trunks would be suffi- 
 cient for the tour of Palestine, and yet the fas- 
 tidious Mrs. S. insists upon canying it all. I fear 
 it will be a tempting invitation to the Bedouins 
 to fall upon us. Miss Kissiah Jones is the most 
 sensible woman I have seen travelling in the East. 
 She is content to carry a small valise, in which she 
 carries but one extra dress. She has worn that old 
 brown travelling-dress in which she now appears, 
 until it seems to be a part and parcel of herself. 
 
hal's travels. 313 
 
 It is woefully faded under the influence of the pelt- 
 ing African sun, and is becoming beautifully fringed 
 about the bottom of the skirt; but still, Kissiah, 
 with her beaming face, looks well even in it. She 
 wears her other dre^s only on Sundays. (It is a 
 black silk.) She says she is determined to stick to 
 the " old brown" until the end of the journey — and 
 she is right. 
 
 But here are our horses. Let us mount and be 
 off. Smith is first in the saddle, and of course leads 
 the way. Look at him as he rides oif; and see 
 with what pride and dignity old "Dare-devil" walks 
 awa}', with head and tail up, evidently proud of his 
 master. A prouder horse and rider have never 
 sallied forth from the Damascus gate since the days 
 of Saul of Tarsus, who emerged from the same 
 portal about eighteen hundred years ago, breathing 
 out curses upon Christians, while Smith goes forth 
 breathing out Arabic curses upon the head of our 
 dragoman, who is reeling under the influence of a 
 quart of mean brandy; for be it known, that Ibra- 
 hcem, our Syrian dragoman, is no Mohammedan, 
 but a Christian, and is therefore privileged to in- 
 dulge in villainous drinks. The order of Good 
 Templars has not j-et penetrated Jerusalem. Ach- 
 mct, our dragoman on the l!^ile, never drinks, for 
 he is a strict Moslem. 
 
 We arc now fairly out on the Damascus road, 
 pacing along in single file, for the road is too narrow 
 for two to ride abreast. It is only a camel road, 
 for there are no wheeled carriages in this country — 
 
314 hal's travels. 
 
 not even a wheelbarrow. The only thing I have 
 seen on wheels is a cannon on the Tower of Hippi- 
 cus in Jerusalem. Our road, although narrow and 
 very rough, is a great thoroughfare, as we can see 
 by the long trains of camels we meet. They are 
 mostly laden with goods from Damascus. 
 
 Here we leave the Tomb of Helena on the right, 
 cross the upper end of the Kidron, and ascend the 
 hill of Scopus. And here we take our farewell 
 glance at Jerusalem — its domes, and minarets, and 
 gray walls, and the mountains that compass it 
 around, with Olivet at their head. We take a long- 
 lingering look back at the sacred spot, and only 
 turn away when the picture grows dim and indis- 
 tinct through the quivering tear-drop. Jerusalem 
 is enshrined in our affections, and was even before 
 we saw it. "We can almost adopt the plaintive, pas- 
 sionate language of the captive Israelite by the 
 waters of Babylon : " If I forget thee, Jerusalem, 
 let my right hand forget her cunning. If I do not 
 remember thee, let my tongue cleave to the roof of 
 my mouth." 
 
 Here on our right, on the top of the hill, is where 
 stood the ancient city of ISTob, and just over there is 
 the site of Gibeah. In this little valley between is 
 where the interview between Jonathan and David 
 took place. That large rock we see peering above 
 ground may have been the rock "Ezel," behind 
 which David lay concealed. We sit doAvn here and 
 read 1 Sam. xx., xxi., and xxii., and learn therefrom 
 that tragical events have occurred here and here- 
 
iial's travels. 315 
 
 abouts. Wc uow go over to Gibeali, on tlie oppo- 
 site hill. From the summit we have an intensely 
 interesting view. We see away down into the 
 valley of the Jordan, and the purple-tinted moun- 
 tains of Moab beyond. On the south we get a 
 peep at some of the buildings on Blount Zion. On 
 the west we see the tomb of the prophet Samuel, 
 over which stands a mosque. On the north is a 
 picturesque village — Ramah, of Benjamin. The 
 sites of Anathoth, Geba, and Michmash, are visible 
 from this point. 
 
 On this ground where we now stand once stood 
 the city of Gibeah. Saul, the first King of Israel, 
 lived here ; and here occurred that awful tragedy 
 which well-nigh annihilated the tribe of Benjamin. 
 "We remember the horrible story of the Levite and 
 his concubine ; and here, on the spot, we read the 
 nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first chapters of 
 the book of Judges. Here, too, we read, in 2 Sam. 
 xxi., of the hanging of the seven descendants of 
 Saul, and of the maternal tenderness of the bereaved 
 mother, Rizpah. 
 
 A little farther on we pass the village of Ramah, 
 of Benjamin, and notice nothing else of interest 
 until reaching Bethel. Here we read the story of 
 Jacob's slumber and dream, etc. Here the country 
 begins to grow better, and olive-groves, vineyards, 
 and fig-orchards now begin to take the place of that 
 bleak, barren sterility through which we have been 
 coming ever since leaving Jerusalem. AVild tiowcrs 
 cover the ground, and we pass in sight of some 
 
316 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 pretty villages perched upon the tall hills. "We have 
 now left the territory of Benjamin, and entered that 
 of Ephraim, and the fertility around us reminds us 
 that he was hlessed with " the precious fruits hrought 
 forth by the sun, . . . and the precious things 
 of the lasting hills." 
 
 Now we approach a dark and narrow defile be- 
 tween two high mountains. It has a startling name, 
 and is the dread of faint-hearted travellers. It is 
 called the "Robbers' Glen." Scarcely a season 
 passes that murderous deeds are not committed 
 here. Before entering it we look well to our pistols 
 and ride as close together as possible. Smith un- 
 furls his flag and takes the lead with as much pride 
 as Don Quixote ever rode forward to attack an au- 
 dacious windmill. "Dare-devil" seems to snuff the 
 battle afar off, and enters the gorge with as little 
 trepidation as his bold rider. See the old gentle- 
 man as he rises in his stirrups and presses forward ! 
 Bold indeed will be the brigand who hurls a lance 
 at that figure. A whole troop may well pause and 
 consider before attacking our brave captain, for his 
 arms are numerous and in good order — and Smith 
 is a man who will not hesitate to use them. Besides 
 his long, keen lance, he carries two of Colt's repeat- 
 ers at his saddle-bow, two "volcanic repeaters" in 
 his belt, and a double-barrel gun strapped to his 
 back. So you see he is capable of firing thirty shots, 
 besides doing immense execution with his shining 
 spear. And then, too, the appearance of the man 
 will do much towards gaining us a victory. His 
 
hal's travels. 317 
 
 tall figure, flowing gray beard, huge turban, red 
 shirt, brilliant sash, high red-top boots, and ponder- 
 ous spurs — these things are enough to strike terror 
 into the ranks of the most daring banditti. We all 
 glory in Smith, and well w^e may, for he is a jewel. 
 
 But we pass the "Eobbers' Glen," and see 
 "nary" robber. The country still improves, and 
 our ride is most charming. The terraced hills are 
 so quaint, the winding valleys so picturesque, the 
 wild flowers so brilliant and so plentiful, the som- 
 bre foliage of the olive, the deep green of the fig, 
 and briirht ffreen of the s-rowins: wheat on the ter- 
 races, all give such exquisite hues to the landscape ! 
 Add to this the gray ruins perched upon the hill- 
 tops, and the peasants in their gay dresses, red and 
 green and white, and the strings of mules and don- 
 keys and camels, defiling along the narrow paths, 
 their bells awaking the echoes ; and the Arab with 
 his long spear, or old brass-bound, flint-lock mus- 
 ket; and the shepherd leading his goats along the 
 mountain-side, or grouped with them around a foun- 
 tain ; and then — the oddest figure of them all — the 
 traveller from the far-west, with his red face and 
 nondescript trappings ! These are the scenes and 
 pictures around us. 
 
 But we hasten on to Shiloh — a most interesting 
 spot. We stop under the shade of this huge oak, 
 (the only tree to be seen,) and read some portions 
 of Scripture relating to Shiloh. We find that here 
 the Tabernacle of the Lord was first permanently 
 set up iu Canaan ; and here the Israelites assem- 
 
318 hal's travels. 
 
 bled to receive eacli his portion of the promised 
 land. It was to this place Samuel, when a child, 
 was brought and dedicated to the Lord. There was 
 a great annual feast held in Shiloli in honor of the 
 ark, at which the village maidens were wont to 
 dance ; they probably did up their dancing in this 
 little valley just below us. It was on one of these 
 festive occasions that the remnant of the Benjamin- 
 ites concealed themselves in the vine3'ards near by, 
 and suddenly rushing upon the unconscious dam- 
 sels, carried off two hundred of them. It is to be 
 hoped they got the old maids. The glory of Shiloh 
 departed with the capture of the ark, and it is now 
 but a heap of ruins. We see a few swarthy, thiev- 
 ish-looking rascals prowling around while we read, 
 but either the size of our party, or the formidable 
 appearance of Smith, keeps them at a distance. 
 They would no doubt like to finger our cash. 
 
 Leaving Shiloh, we soon enter a rich and most 
 beautiful valley. The country has been improving 
 ever since we entered the domains of Ephraim, and 
 there now seems but little room for further improve- 
 ment. Such fertile districts are unknown in Judah 
 or Benjamin. Every step we advance proves to us 
 that Ephraim was indeed blessed with the " chief 
 things of the ancient mountains." The first high 
 hill we ascend after leaving this valley reveals a most 
 glorious view. Away over yonder we see on a very 
 high point a little white building of some kind. 
 That is the landmark of Mount Gerizira, and marks 
 the spot where the Samaritan Temple once stood. 
 
hal's travels. 319 
 
 Beyond it we see the point of Mount Ebal. Be- 
 tween the two lies the valley and city of Shechem, 
 or Sychar. And far, far away on the northern hori- 
 zon we discern a peaked cone tipped with snow; 
 that is Ilernion ! 
 
 Two or three hours' riding brings us to Jacob's 
 "Well, just at the entrance of the valley of Shechem, 
 and near the base of Gerizini. Here the Saviour 
 rested at noonday, wearied no doubt with the long 
 walk up the hot plain, having come, like ourselves, 
 from Jerusalem. There is but little to be seen at 
 this well, for it is almost filled up, but we stop and 
 read the story of that strange interview between our 
 Lord and the Samaritan woman. The little white 
 enclosure we see near by is Joseph's tomb. His 
 body was brought up from Egypt, and buried in this 
 place. Half an hour's ride up the valley brings us 
 to Shechem, situated among the finest scenery in 
 Palestine, and one of the most beautiful sites for a 
 city from Dan to Beersheba. It is in a narrow val- 
 ley, with the steep mountains of Ebal and Gerizim 
 towering up on either side. Shechem has a popu- 
 lation of about eiglit or ten thousand, the most vil- 
 lainous set of people we have seen since leaving 
 Hebron. They take pride in hating Christians, and 
 we must be particular not to offend them, or we 
 may get up an unpleasant affair. We go into the 
 synagogue of the Samaritans, (there are still a few 
 here,) and arc shown a manuscript copy of the law, 
 which the high-priest tells us is three thousand 
 five hundred years old. 
 
820 hal's travels. 
 
 It was in Shecliem that Abraham first pitched his 
 tent in Canaan ; Jacob also settled here, and per- 
 haps lived near ^yhe^e he dug his well. He bought 
 that "parcel of a field" where his well is from 
 Hamor, Shechem's father, and there was buried his 
 favorite son Joseph. After removing from Shechem 
 down to Hebron, Jacob still retained his plantation 
 here, and it was to his fields here that he sent 
 Joseph in quest of his brethren, to see if " it was 
 well with them and well with their flocks." They 
 had removed to Dothan, twelve miles farther. The 
 little fellow in his "coat of many colors" followed 
 them np with the message of his good old father, 
 and they sold him to the Ishmaelites. 
 
 As this was the place where the patriarchs first 
 settled in Canaan, so it was, many hundred years 
 later, the place where their descendants gathered 
 after coming np out of Egypt, and here, on Mount 
 Gerizim and Mount Ebal, the blessing and cursing 
 took place that we read about in Deuteronomy, 
 xxvii. and xxviii. In different parts of the Scrip- 
 tures we find that many highly interesting and 
 important events occurred here in old times, but 
 w^e will read them at our leisure, when we have 
 more time. Those villainous Shechemites who eye 
 us so closely would perhaps rather see us move on. 
 
 The next place of importance at which we halt is 
 Samaria, once a great and royal city, but now only 
 a village. "Within the walls of an old ruined church 
 is said to be the tomb of John the Baptist. From 
 the commanding position, and the numerous evi- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 321 
 
 dences of fine arcliitecturc, Samaria must have been 
 a most beautiful city. None of the ancient build- 
 ings are standing, but the great hewn stones and 
 the multitude of columns show that it was superior, 
 in beauty at least, to any thing we have before seen 
 in Palestine. There are hundreds of columns still 
 standing, and hundreds more lying prostrate, scat- 
 tered over a vast extent of ground. In one place, 
 on a beautiful terrace along the hill-side, stands a 
 row of columns near three-quarters of a mile in 
 length. There was once a double row of them tifty 
 feet apart, but nearly all of one of the rows have 
 been thrown down, and have rolled down the 
 hill. In many other places columns are standing 
 in rows and squares. Vineyards and olive-groves 
 now cover the grounds, and magnificent specimens 
 of carved stones lie scattered about among them, 
 from the top of the hill even down into the valley. 
 The origin of this city is told with simplicity and 
 clearness, in 1 Kings xvi. 23, 24. Its destruction 
 was foretold by Micah ; and, as we stand on the 
 hill and look on these columns shooting up from 
 clustering vines and green wheat, and the great 
 heaps among the olive trees in the valley below, Ave 
 read with thrilling interest the striking and fearful 
 prediction of that prophet, " I will make Samaria 
 as an heap of the field, and as plantings of a vine- 
 yard ; and I will pour down the stones thereof into 
 the valley, and I will discover the foundations there- 
 of." This prophecy is fulfilled to the very letter. 
 The cause of this destruction we learn from Uosea 
 11 
 
322 hal's travels. 
 
 xiii. IG : "Samaria shall become desolate, for she 
 hath rebelled against her God." 
 
 Leaving Samaria, we traverse a most picturesque 
 and highly cultivated section of country. A ride 
 of six miles brings us to one of the richest and 
 most beautiful little plains we have seen. It is 
 Dothan. Here is where Joseph found his brethren 
 with their flocks the day they sold him. Elisha the 
 prophet once lived here. 
 
 A few hours' ride, and our hearts are rejoiced as 
 we enter that celebrated and extensive plain of Es- 
 draelon. It is extensive, rich, and beautiful, and is 
 drained by the river Kishon. This has been the 
 great battle-field of Palestine. The names of the 
 mountains which surround this plain are familiar to 
 every one who reads the Bible — and the towns are 
 also known. Upon entering the plain, we pass 
 through Jezreel, once the royal city where Ahab 
 built his palace. We stop and open our Bibles, and 
 in the twenty-first chapter of First Kings read the 
 story of poor j^aboth and his vinej-ard, and the 
 cruelty of the crafty Jezebel. We are now at the 
 base of Mount Gilboa, where Saul and Jonathan 
 fell. Tabor and Little Hermon are in plain view. 
 We pass through the towns of Shunem, N'ain, and 
 Endor. In fact, every village, hill, and valley we 
 see in this section, possesses scriptural interest. 
 There have been innumerable battles fought and 
 rivers of blood shed just where we now are. Here 
 the Israelites have fought with the Midianites, the 
 Amalekites, the Philistines, the Syrians, and all the 
 
hal's travels. 823 
 
 Canaanitish tribes, time and again. Here, too, 
 many of the prophets lived. We pause in Nain, 
 and read the touching story of the raising from the 
 dead of the widow's son by our Lord. In En dor 
 we read of Saul's interview with the witch, when 
 she called up the Prophet SamueL 
 
 In the distance, away to the left, we see the blue sum- 
 mit of Mount Carmel, and straight ahead, away across 
 the plain, rises Tabor, a tall single cone standing all 
 alone. We press forward to the latter, for we must 
 camp there to-night. As we cross the rich plain, 
 we are amazed to see what a small proportion of it 
 is cultivated. But then we must remember that , 
 there is no encouragement here for industry. This 
 is the home of the thievish Bedouin, who scours the 
 smooth surface of the plain on his fleet mare in 
 search of plunder. This region has always been 
 insecure, both for farmer and traveller, since history 
 began. The Bedouins make frequent incursions 
 from beyond the Jordan, destroy whole crops, and 
 drive off" as many cattle as they desire. This know- 
 ledge is very annoying to my friend Smith, and ho 
 now openly declares himself in favor of tillibuster- 
 ism. He wants to go home and raise a company 
 of fillibusters, and bring them over here to exter- 
 minate the thieving Arabs, lie thinks a few hun- 
 dreds of Uncle Sam's boys would either civilize or 
 exterminate them ; but rather favors the latter. 
 Smith generally has very correct notions of things. 
 
 We now approach Mount Tabor, certainly the 
 most beautiful mountain we have seen, for it is 
 
324 hal's travels. 
 
 thicklj dotted with small oak trees, a sight we have 
 not before met with in Palestine. A hard climb of 
 fourteen hundred feet brings us to the summit. 
 The view from here is lovely beyond description. 
 "VVe take in the whole plain of Esdraelon at a 
 glance, from the foot of the hill below us to the base 
 of Carmel and Gilboa, one unbroken sea of verdure. 
 Little Hermon is before us, and the villages of Nain 
 and Endor clinging to its side. To the east we see 
 a long stretch of the Jordan valley, and the moun- 
 tains of Gilead beyond it. To the north-east we 
 see a small portion of the Sea of Galilee, and away, 
 very far away beyond we see the towering cone of 
 snowy Hermon, and a portion of the Lebanon 
 range. On the summit of Tabor we find massive 
 ruins of an ancient city. We know nothing of 
 these ruins. It was evidently a fortified city of 
 immense strength. Many suppose Tabor to be the 
 Mount of Transfiguration. It was in the plain near 
 the base of this mountain that the bloody battle 
 between the French, under ISTapoleon I., and the 
 Turks, occurred. This would have been a glorious 
 point from which to view the battle. 
 
 We now leave Tabor, and proceed to Tiberias, 
 about five hours' ride, where we shall spend the Sab- 
 bath — and a fitting place it is to spend the day of 
 rest. Tiberias is a walled town, containing about 
 two or three thousand inhabitants, just on the mar- 
 gin of the Sea of Galilee. It is noted for filth and 
 fleas, the latter of which are without number, and 
 of marvellous size. It is said that the flea congress 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 325 
 
 assembles lierc, and if so, we can readily believe 
 that they hold night sessions, and present "bills" 
 incessantly. We can here sing with feeling that 
 beautiful parody which runs thus : 
 
 "Oft in the stilly night, 
 
 Eve slumber's chains have bound me, 
 I feel the cursed bite 
 Of something crawling round me." 
 
 Smith carries the bass beautifully, and Miss Kissiah 
 screams out the treble enchantiugly. 
 
 Almost every spot around this little sea is holy 
 ground, for here is where our Saviour lived, after 
 he was rejected by the people of Nazareth. He 
 taught the multitudes on these shores, and chose 
 some of his apostles from the lishing-boats on its 
 waters. But these shores at that day were not so 
 silent and desolate as now ; they were teeming with 
 life. Several cities lay at intervals along its margin 
 — such as Capernaum, Chorazin, the two Bethsaidas, 
 Gamala, Ilippas, Scythopolis, Gadara, Tiberias, etc., 
 etc. Vast multitudes lived here, and thej^ followed 
 the Lord daily to hear his preaching. Sometimes 
 he was so thronged that he would enter into a boat 
 and thrust out from the shore. Just over yonder 
 we see the place where he once fed five thousand 
 people with a few loaves and fishes ; and just here, 
 on this little hill, he fed another company of seven 
 thousand in a like miraculous manner. AVe read 
 our Bible here with intense interest, because the 
 scenes to which they relate were here. Just oppo- 
 site to where we now stand is the place where 
 
326 hal's travels. 
 
 Gadara stood, and wliere the Gadarenes were so 
 alarmed at tlie teachings and power of the Lord. 
 
 We take a boat and sail partly round the sea, (it 
 is but a little sea,) and visit the ruins of many of the 
 ancient cities, such as Capernaum, Chorazin, etc., 
 all of which possess wonderful interest. We spend 
 most of Saturday and the whole of Sunday in wan- 
 dering, and reading the Scriptures — not forgetting 
 to bathe in the sacred waters. The only inhabited 
 city on this sea now is Tiberias, and it seems going 
 to destruction. 
 
 Our sail upon the sea is very pleasant, for there 
 is just breeze enough to waft our little ship merrily 
 along. As we sail we read the story of the great 
 storm that once occurred here, and the great calm 
 which followed, when our Saviour rebuked the 
 winds. We read, too, of his walking upon the 
 water, and of Peter's daring attempt to do the same. 
 
 We leave Tiberias to-morrow for Nazareth, having 
 changed the plan of our route. The danger of rob- 
 bers along the road, and some of our party being 
 pressed for time, we shall not go to Damascus, but 
 proceed to Beyrout, by way of Tyre, Sidon, etc. — a 
 more interesting route, I think, than the one by 
 Damascus, for it will take us by Can a and Nazareth 
 and Carmel, and many other places I desire to see. 
 Farewell till I write again. Hal. 
 
hal's thavels. 327 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 TIBERIAS TO BEY ROUT. 
 
 There is a commotion in our camp this morning 
 — a running to and fro of our party, and an expres- 
 sion of alarm on every countenance. Brown is miss- 
 ing ! Yes, the daring Brown, whose long hair 
 and immense beard and moustache have rendered 
 him the admiration of the ladies of our party — es- 
 pecially Mrs. Smith — is gone, and nobody knows 
 where, though all believe that he is kidnapped by 
 the Bedouins. Search has been made for him upon 
 the hills and all along the sea-shore, and whoops 
 and yells have been echoed, from crag to crag in 
 vain. Brown answers not. He went quietly to 
 bed in his tent last night, and has not been seen 
 since. lie must be in the hands of the banditti, for 
 breakfast has now been read}' and waiting for half 
 an hour, and still he comes not — a circumstance 
 never before known since the commencement of 
 our travels — for Brown is not a man to slis-ht the 
 table comforts. Perhaps he has gone up on the 
 Alount of Beatitudes, (which is hard by,) to meditate, 
 perhaps to pray. But no. Brown is not addicted 
 to such practices, that we arc aware of. Besides, 
 
328 hal's travels. 
 
 we have fisli — fresh fish from the waters of Galilee 
 — for breakfast, and Brown is astonishingly fond of 
 fish. But we must not stop supinely here. Captain 
 Smith has given the word of command, and we 
 must be in the saddle and away. The country 
 must be scoured, and Smith swears he will kill the 
 first Arab we meet if he give not information of our 
 lost friend — and Smith's oaths are fearful. Arming 
 ourselves is but the work of a moment, and we 
 gallop away from our encampment vowing to eat 
 not until our comrade is found — for it will never do 
 to give Mr. Brown up so! "Dare-devil" and his 
 rider are of course iu the lead, and the flag is again 
 unfurled to the morning breeze. We take our 
 course along the margin of the sea of Galilee to- 
 wards the outlet of the Jordan, for in that region, it 
 is said, the robbers most do congregate. 
 
 A brisk ride of a mile brings us within a fcAv 
 hundred yards of the hot springs, which issue from 
 the base of the mountain and flow oft' into the sea, 
 when — lo, and behold ! we see the comely form of 
 the lost Brown issuing from the old building which 
 covers the springs, and innocently taking his course 
 towards us — evidently as much surprised to see us 
 in battle array as we are delighted to see him. 
 He has only been taking a hot bath for his rheuma- 
 tism, having got up and left the camp before the 
 rest of us were astir. Smith gives him a round 
 cursing (Smith will be profane, notwithstanding the 
 sacredness of the scenes around us) for his impru- 
 dence, and we wind our way back to the encamp- 
 
hal's travels. 329 
 
 ment, feeling a little foolish, Avhere we find the 
 ladies iu mortal terror, having seen a couple of 
 armed Arabs prowling near them during our short 
 absence. The delight of again seeing Brown return 
 unharmed, soon recovers them, and Mrs. Smith 
 kindly pats his ruddy check, and smilingly tells 
 him he must not do so any more. Mrs. S. seems 
 to have a growing fondness for Brown's moustache. 
 
 We sit down to a cold breakfast, and by the time 
 we are through, the tents are struck, the baggage 
 packed, and the jingle of the little bells on the bag- 
 gage mules is soon heard as they wind their way up 
 the steep mountain side. We mount our horses, 
 take a last look at the beautiful little sea of Galilee, 
 bid farewell to Tiberias and its swarms of fleas, 
 and take the road towards N'azareth — for we must 
 sleep there to-night. 
 
 The country through which wo travel is very 
 pretty and picturesque — rich, but poorly cultivated. 
 We pass by some very pretty towns — only pretty, 
 however, at a distance — surrounded with rich 
 groves of olive trees. In the distance we see snowy 
 Ilermon, and peaks of the Lebanon range. The 
 first town we arrive at possessing scriptural interest 
 is Cana, which, for a wonder, is a neat village, 
 prettily situated on a hill-side, and surrounded by 
 olive and other fruit trees. Cana of (Jalilee is 
 memorable as the place where our Lord performed 
 his first miracle of changing water into wine at a 
 marriage-feast. Nothing else is recorded of it that 
 I know of. There is a large spring of water just 
 
330 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 outside tlie town, from which no doubt the water 
 was taken at the time of our Lord's visit, as it is the 
 only spring near. We see a number of the village 
 damsels around it with their water-pots. In an old 
 Greek church here some water-pots are shown, 
 said to be the same w^hich contained the miraculous 
 wine. We believe as much of the story as we 
 choose. There are remains of an old house here, 
 said to be that of IsTathanael. 
 
 We now hasten on to Nazareth — one of the most 
 sacred spots on the face of the earth. We find 
 it a picturesque little city, built upon a hill, but 
 surrounded by mountains overtopping it. It con- 
 tains a population of over four thousand, two-thirds 
 of whom are Christian, and decidedly the cleanest, 
 best-looking, best-mannered people we have found 
 in Palestine. It is the cleanest and best built 
 town we have seen — the houses all built of light- 
 colored stone, with flat roofs. 
 
 Nazareth is as a household word throughout 
 Christendom, for it was the home of the Saviour's 
 boyhood, the scene of his early labors, his prayers, 
 and his whole private life. How often must he 
 have run in boyhood about these streets ! How 
 often must he have accompanied his mother to this 
 very fountain here, hard by our camp ! How often 
 must he have sat with his parents in the quiet even- 
 ings on the housetop, as is still the custom ! How 
 often must he have wandered over these rocky hill- 
 tops, meditating on his divine mission, and holding 
 sweet communion with his Father ! But we have 
 
ual's travels. 331 
 
 no memorials of this period of the Saviour's life. 
 It is enough for us to know that the Lord dwelt 
 here ; that for thirty years he trod this spot of 
 earth, and that his eyes were familiar with the 
 objects spread around. In his public life we know 
 of onl}-^ tAvo incidents recorded in connection with 
 "the city in which he was brought up." In one 
 instance the Nazarenes were so offended and exas- 
 perated when he preached that "they thrust him 
 out of the city, and led him unto the brow of a hill 
 on which their city was built, that they might cast 
 him down headlong." Upon glancing round we 
 can see more than one "brow" which might have 
 answered their wicked designs. From that moment 
 JS^azareth ceased to be his home, for " he came and 
 dwelt in Capernaum." When he visited " his own" 
 people again they sneered at him, and said, " Is not 
 this the carpenter, the son of Mary, the brother of 
 James, and Joses, and of Judas, and Simon ? And 
 are not his sisters here with us ? And they were 
 offended at him." 
 
 "While in Nazareth we go round of course to see 
 the holy places which the monks are alwa3's ready 
 to point out — for money — such as the place of An- 
 nunciation, Mary's house, Joseph's carpenter-shop, 
 etc., etc. ; but we care for none of these things. It 
 is sufficient for us to know that Jesus and Mary and 
 Joseph lived here. These localities are but guessed 
 at b}'^ the monks. 
 
 This fountain here just by our camp is called 
 "Mary's Fountain;" and it is said that she was 
 
332 hal's travels. 
 
 there drawing water when the first salutation of the 
 angel came to her. 
 
 From Nazareth we proceed towards Acre, pass- 
 ing near the base of the beautiful Mount Carmel. 
 We do not climb the steep acclivity, but from the 
 plain we see the place where the event occurred 
 which gives to Carmel its chief interest — the place 
 of Elijah's sacrifice. We open our Bibles and read 
 the story as recorded in 1 Kings xviii. 17-46. It 
 was just up there the great multitude of people 
 were assembled to witness the conflict between the 
 one prophet of God and the eight hundred and fifty 
 prophets of Baal. The people no doubt looked on 
 with intense interest, while from morning till noon, 
 and from noon till the time of the evening sacrifice, 
 the priests of Baal cried in vain. When the sun 
 was sinking behind the mountain, Elijah's sacrifice 
 was accepted. The last act of the tragedy was per- 
 formed on this plain — possibly near where we now 
 stand — when Elijah brought the eight hundred and 
 fifty defeated prophets down to this little river 
 Kishon, and slew them here. jS'ow, reader, get 
 your Bible and read the eloquent portion of Scrip- 
 ture relating this tragedy. Carmel is truly beau- 
 tiful, its slopes being covered, like those of Tabor, 
 with small trees. 
 
 We pass through a lovely region to-day. The 
 plain of Acre is one of the richest in Palestine — 
 producing alike luxuriant crops, and the rankest 
 weeds in the country. The city of Acre is not men- 
 tioned in Scripture, so far as I know, but it is cer- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 333 
 
 tainly one of the most important towns in the 
 country. It is a very strongly fortified place, and 
 contains about five thousand inhabitants, including 
 a garrison of Turkish soldiers, i^apoleon called it 
 the key to Palestine. Acre is also called Ptolemais. 
 Man}' battles have been fought here, and the blood 
 of thousands of brave men has drenched these plains. 
 It was a place of much importance during the time 
 of the crusades. But we must not stop to recount 
 the scenes that have occurred here. 
 
 From Acre we take the road to Tyre, which 
 is most of the way along the seashore, and over 
 exceedingly rough spurs of the Lebanon mountains, 
 that jut out into the sea occasionally. In crossing 
 these spurs our horses are called upon to exercise 
 that peculiar talent known only to the horses of this 
 country — to-wit, "getting up stairs" and climbing 
 ladders. "We have left Palestine, and are now in 
 Phoenicia, and to-night we sleep at Tyre, the ancient 
 "mistress of the seas." These snowy mountain 
 peaks to our right are the mountains of Lebanon. 
 Just before arriving at Tyre we pass some remark- 
 able fountains and reservoirs of immense size, and 
 which are as old as history itself. The water is 
 brought down in aqueducts from Lebanon, and 
 served in ancient times to supply the great city of 
 Tyre with excellent water. The water is ample to 
 turn any amount of machinery, but it is onlj- used 
 now to turn one solitary mill. IsTear the fountains 
 we see some beautiful gazelles feeding, but they flee 
 at our approach. 
 
334 hal's travels. 
 
 We now approacli Tyre, where we rest to-niglit. 
 We find its walls broken down, and every thing 
 about it having an old and dingy appearance ; but 
 8till it is not the desolate place we expected to find 
 it. It has a population of three or four thousand, 
 and upon entering the gate we find the streets com- 
 paratively clean, and the people looking decidedly 
 respectable for Asiatics. This was once the greatest 
 of the Phoenician cities, even greater than its mo- 
 ther Sidon ; and the great number of old columns 
 and sculptured stones we see lying about convince 
 us that a superb style of architecture prevailed here 
 in olden times. These stones and columns are al- 
 most innumerable, built up in the modern walls, and 
 piles of them lying in the water, and all along the 
 beach. We are reminded at every step, and by every 
 glance, of the prophecies uttered against this city : 
 "And they shall make a spoil of thy riches, and 
 make a prey of thy merchandise, and they shall 
 break down thy walls, and destroy thy pleasant 
 houses. . . . They shall lament over thee, say- 
 ing, ' What city is like Tyrus, like the destroyed in 
 the midst of the sea !' " and again, " They shall break 
 down the towers of Tyrus, and make her like the 
 top of a rock. It shall be a place for the spreading 
 of nets in the midst of the sea." Here we see scores 
 of fishermen's nets spread upon the old broken walls, 
 to dry. We sit down here on this exquisitely wrought 
 capital, which once no doubt adorned a graceful 
 column in some magnificent building, and read with 
 intense interest the 27th chapter of Ezekiel, which, 
 
II A L ' S T K A V E L S . 335 
 
 for graphic power of description and prophetic ac- 
 curacy, is probably unequalled in the whole compass 
 of literature. "\Ve recommend a perusal of it to our 
 friends. 
 
 We are also interested in this cit^^of Tyre because 
 it was once the city of King Hiram — and a very 
 clever man he was, too, no doubt, for he w^as a par- 
 ticular friend of King David, and furnished that 
 monarch with both materials and workmen to build 
 his palace. There also existed a good understand- 
 ing between Iliram and Solomon — as always should 
 be the case between high-minded gentlemen — and 
 the former furnished the latter with an immense 
 amount of cedar-wood, etc., for the building of the 
 Temple at Jerusalem. I told the story of Hiram's 
 benevolence to my friend, Smith this morning, but 
 he was not disposed to do justice to the Tyrian king. 
 He thought that Hiram knew " w^hich side of his 
 bread was buttered," and only furnished materials 
 to the kings of Israel because he feared them. We 
 think differently. 
 
 "We make a little excursion to the tomb of King 
 Hiram, which is some distance outside the town. 
 We find it rather a remarkable monument, standing 
 alone, apart alike from human habitation and an- 
 cient ruin — a solitary venerable relic of remote an- 
 tiquity. It is an immense sarcophagus of limestone, 
 hewn out of a single block, twelve feet long, and 
 eight wide, (according to the measure of my walk- 
 ing-cane,) and six high, covered with a lid five feet 
 thick, and resting on a massive pedestal ten feet 
 
336 hal's travels. 
 
 high. The monument is perfect, though weather- 
 beaten. And here was deposited the remains of 
 Solomon's friend and ally ! 
 
 Leaving Tyre, we take the road to Sidon, which is 
 through the plain of Phoenicia, where a mournful, 
 solitary silence prevails. The plain between the 
 mountain and the sea is little more than a mile 
 wide, and very rich, but, sad to say, most of it lies 
 waste. The mountain sides and wild glens above 
 are clustering with villages ; while every available 
 spot is cultivated in terraces ; but the plain is deso- 
 late. The only signs of life we see as we ride along 
 are a few Arab tents, and an occasional horseman, 
 armed to the teeth, and oftener a little troop of 
 gazelles. Security for life and property is unknown 
 here save beneath the walls of cities, or amid the 
 mountain-fastnesses. Hence the plains lie waste, 
 while the steep mountain-sides and crevices are cul- 
 tivated. We find some ancient ruins along the way, 
 but know nothing of them. The only place of 
 scriptural interest we pass is the village of Sarepta, 
 the place where the Prophet Elijah came during the 
 great famine, and met the ' poor widow woman 
 gathering sticks to prepare her meal. We remem- 
 ber the interview between them, and the sequel: 
 how the widow's meal and oil were miraculously 
 multiplied, and how her dying son was subsequently 
 restored to health by the prophet. These miracles 
 impressed Divine truth upon that poor woman, and 
 she confessed — " Now by this I know that thou art 
 a man of God, and that the word of the Lord in 
 
hal's travels. 337 
 
 thy moutli is truth." We open our Bibles hero 
 and read the touching story in the 17th chapter of 
 1 Kings. It is said that here is where the Syro- 
 phenician woman met the Saviour during his visit to 
 the "coasts of Tyre and Sidon." "We read the 
 little story in the 15th chapter of Matthew, and also 
 in the 7th chapter of Mark. 
 
 "We here get our first view of Sidon, away in 
 the distance, emboAvered in luxuriant gardens and 
 orchards. The view is most lovely, though three 
 hours' ride distant. Upon entering the city we find 
 the streets after the usual Eastern type, with the 
 usual amount of filth, and running in no particular 
 direction, but winding about promiscuously. Some 
 of the houses, however, approach elegance, especi- 
 ally those along the wall overlooking the orchards. 
 It contains a population of about five thousand. 
 Just outside the town on the seashore we find our 
 tents pitched, and, as usual, surrounded by a swarm 
 of the natives, who are always curious to see stran- 
 gers. Among the rest we are met by a venerable 
 old gentleman and all his fiimily, consisting of his 
 wife, a son, and four grown daughters. They are 
 Protestant Christians, and meet us as brethren. 
 We are glad to see them, and shake them heartily 
 by the hand. The daughters speak English, having 
 been taught at the Bey rout Mission. They are 
 all dressed in the true Eastern style — the flowing 
 trowsers and long white veils. They carry on a 
 school here, and tell us that they occasionally gain 
 additions to their little Church. A Protestant 
 
338 hal's travels. 
 
 Cliristiau is a rare sight in this seemingly God- 
 forsaken country. "We do not remember the name 
 of this family — and who could remember a regular 
 Arab name ? 
 
 We see very few remains of antiquity about 
 Sidon, although it is one of the oldest cities in the 
 world, as we find it mentioned in the tenth chapter 
 of Genesis, along with Gaza and Sodom and 
 Gomorrah. It is said to have been founded by the 
 great-grandson of Noah — and that, you know, was 
 long, long ago. "VYe find many allusions made to 
 this city in various parts of Scripture. Paul touched 
 here when on his voyage to Athens. Sidon was 
 once the mistress of the seas, but afterwards Tyre 
 took the wind out of her sails, and became the 
 great city of the East. 
 
 "We leave Sidon, and take the road along the 
 seashore to Beyrout, one of the most bleak, barren, 
 desolate roads we ever travelled. We plunge 
 through deep sand, and climb rugged spurs of the 
 mountain from morning till night, with a most 
 withering Syrian sun pouring down upon us with- 
 out mercy. We shall remetnber this day's ride as 
 the most — in fact, the only disagreeable day of our 
 journey. 
 
 But we rejoice not a little as we approach Bey- 
 rout. It is like entering Paradise. Before enter- 
 ing the city we pass through a forest of oranges, 
 lemons, figs, almonds, apricots, peaches, pears, 
 olives, pines, and mulberries, all growing luxuri- 
 antly, forming a forest of beautifully tinted foliage. 
 
hal's travels. 339 
 
 Going into Bo^TOut is like getting into tlie "white 
 eettleraents" after wandering long among savages, 
 for here we see white men, and many buildings 
 that really look European in style. It is a city con- 
 taining about fifty thousand inhabitants, a good 
 many of whom are Protestant Christians, for the 
 American missionaries have done wonders here. 
 
 Here ends our tent- life in Palestine and Syria. 
 Here we bid farewell to mules and horses, for our 
 next ride will be upon the troubled waters of the 
 restless ocean. It is aftecting to see the parting 
 between Smith and "Dare-devil;" for truly if man 
 ever loved horse, Smith is the man, and "Dare- 
 devil" the horse. Smith has clipped a whisp of 
 hair from the horse's mane, (he has none on his 
 tail,) which he intends to carry as a souvenir. I 
 think a few tears were shed at the parting. "We 
 also take leave of Ibraheem, our dragoman, and he, 
 from absolute sorrow, immediately gets on a spree. 
 The same may be said of Ilalleel, his assistant, and 
 poor Demetri, the cook — for they all claim to be. 
 Christians, and are therefore privileged to indulge 
 in villainous drinks. 'Our tents are furled up, our 
 camp equipage stowed away, and we betake our- 
 selves to the good cheer of the Hotel Bellevue, 
 where we find some other Americans, one of whom, 
 a Mr. Boots, seems to know something about ever}' 
 thing in the world, and takes much delight in tell- 
 ing all he knows. I may tell you something about 
 him at some future time. He is to accompany us 
 to Constantinople, at which we are all of course 
 
340 hal's travels. 
 
 wonderfully pleased — for Mr. Boots is a man not to 
 be lightly regarded, being a man of huge prepon- 
 derosity, and marvellous ability. We have already 
 set him down as a trump card. 
 
 We remain in Beyrout two or three days to rest, 
 and during the time wander about the city and 
 through the groves and gardens to our hearts' con- 
 tent. We visit the American Mission School and 
 Publishing House, where we are courteously re- 
 ceived by Rev. Dr. Van Dyck, Dr. Thomson, and 
 others connected with the Mission. We are all 
 invited to Dr. Thomson's to tea, where we spend 
 one of the most agreeable evenings we have passed 
 since leaving home. We meet many missionaries, 
 and other Americans, among them Rev. Dr. Hatty, 
 from Damascus, Rev. Mr. Porter, from Sidon, and 
 Rev. Mr. Jessup, from Aleppo. Dr. Thomson is a 
 veteran in the missionary cause, having labored 
 here for eighteen years. He is the author of the 
 " Land and the Book," a most excellent work on 
 Palestine. 
 
 This country is greatly disturbed now. An old 
 feud between the Maronite Christians and the 
 Druses is being revived, and much bloody work is 
 anticipated. A great many murders have been 
 committed within the last few days in the moun- 
 tains of Lebanon, between here and Damascus. 
 An open war of extermination between these two 
 sects is anticipated. It matters little which exter- 
 minates the other, for they are villains all. 
 
 We are now preparing to leave Beyrout. Our 
 
hal's travels. 341 
 
 steamer sails for Constantinople to-morrow. I may 
 write you another letter one of these days. Till 
 I do, good-bye. Yours, Hal. 
 
 P. S. — I must not forget to tell j'ou that I have 
 bought some splendid Arab horses, which, if I suc- 
 ceed in getting them home, will create quite a sen- 
 sation, I think. In spirit they are of the "Dare- 
 devil" breed. The Arab horses, you know, have 
 long been celebrated throughout the world for their 
 iieetness and bottom. It is said that they can run 
 all day. They are also horses of great beauty. 
 They are mainly noted, however, for long wind. 
 
 CliDAll OF LEDANON. 
 
342 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XXXI. 
 
 BEY ROUT TO PARIS. 
 
 From the rumbling noise that comes floating 
 across the great waters, I am convinced that the 
 political caldron at home is boiling over, and per- 
 haps scalding folks. The grandiloquent farce re- 
 cently enacted in Charleston has, I see, burst the 
 Democratic party wide open, and that some of the 
 actors in that funny scene now threaten, for mere 
 spite, to tear the Union into several separate and 
 distinct pieces. The Black Eepublicans, I observe, 
 sneer and slyly laugh in their sleeves at the farce ; 
 but they too — many of them — are willing to assist 
 in the threatened destruction ; and, between the 
 two destructive factions, the danger seems immi- 
 nent, judging from the sputtering noise they make. 
 But while these things are going on, I calmly smoke 
 my pipe, and trust that the fool-killer may come 
 along in time to save our country from the claws 
 of those ranting cock-sparrows who bestride the 
 editorial tripod or mount the stump, to j)reach 
 destruction to gaping multitudes. With this com- 
 fortable hope I shall smoke on, and leave politics 
 alone, and tell you something more about my 
 travels in the East. 
 
hal's travels. 343 
 
 Now, if you would accompany me, it is absolutely 
 necessary for you to again draw on your seven- 
 league boots, and nerve yourself for the longest 
 course you ever ran ; for this letter must take us all 
 the way from the coasts of Asia Minor to the shores 
 of sunny France — from Beyrout to Paris. Nor 
 shall we go direct, for we must needs go by Smyrna, 
 Constantinople, and Athens, taking a bird's-eye 
 view of these cities, and several other interesting 
 points along the route. 
 
 My last letter left us, I think, on the point of sail- 
 ing from the city of Beyrout, which we shall now 
 proceed to do. We expect a row with the custom- 
 house officers, and are not disappointed in our ex- 
 pectations. They deem us proper subjects for 
 plunder, and consequently proceed to plunder us. 
 They examine our baggage most rigidly, and un- 
 blushingly declare that most of the little trinkets 
 we have picked up in the Holy Land are forbidden 
 by law to be taken out of the country. "\Ve bluster 
 a good deal, and my friend Smith even goes so far 
 as to get out one of his "six-shooters." But it's 
 no use : they are too many for us. Finally, rather 
 than lose our little souvenirs, we pay a liberal 
 "backsheesh," which is wonderfully efficacious in 
 making an official blind to the law. We shake the 
 dust from our feet, and go aboard the steamer that 
 awaits us in the harbor. 
 
 All aboard, and the whistle has sounded for the 
 last time. We all stand on deck, and, as the noble 
 vessel steams out of the bay, we take a last look at 
 
34-4 hal's travels. 
 
 one of the most lovely scenes man ever looked upon. 
 Beyrout, with its white houses embowered in green 
 groves of olive, pine, mulberry, fig. and orange, 
 backed by the picturesque mountains of Lebanon, 
 and the still taller peaks of Anti-lebanou, tipped 
 with eternal snow, and all these gilded by the set- 
 ting sun, make a scene which no painter ever has 
 or ever can portray. 
 
 Now let us see who are our companions du voy- 
 age. A glance tells us that it is a motley company, 
 composed of representatives from almost every na- 
 tion under the sun — Greeks, Arabians, Turks, Per- 
 sians, and Europeans. Here we have an old English 
 Consul, who has -recently " gone and got himself 
 married," and has been taking a little bridal tour; 
 a Turkish Pasha, who sits like a fat, lazy beast, as 
 he is, and smokes continually ; several of the Ger- 
 man nobility — quite respectable -looking people; 
 (we should like Countess Jaw-breaker better, how- 
 ever, if she did not sit upon deck with the gentle- 
 men and smoke cigars ;) also a number of Greeks 
 of the better sort, and a goodly number of Ameri- 
 cans. And here is our new friend Mr. Boots, the 
 knowing man. We are glad to have him along ; 
 for he has travelled the route before, and knows it 
 all by heart, and can tell it too. Besides, he has 
 read Virgil and Homer and Ovid, and all them 
 Greek and Latin fellows, and can tell us all about 
 the classic ground over which we travel. How for- 
 tunate we are, to fall in with Mr. Boots ! He speaks 
 French, German, and Arabic ! 
 
iial's travels. 345 
 
 But we arc in a great hurry to finish up our East- 
 ern tour, and have no time to dwell upon the varied 
 accomplishments of Mr. Boots. We must pitsh 
 ahead, and only note the points of most interest 
 along the way ; for we are heartily tired of the 
 Asiatics, and long to get among more civilized peo- 
 ple. Our first stop is at the city of Marino, Island 
 of Cyprus, where we go ashore and ramble through 
 the town for a few hours, visiting two or three 
 churches, and a Greek school, said to be somewhat 
 celebrated. We see some ancient ruins, but don't 
 know what they are. The most enjoyable portion 
 of our visit is an hour spent with Mr. Barclay, 
 United States Consul, whose Cyprus wine we all 
 pronounce excellent. In a distant part of the island 
 Mr. Boots points out Mount Olj-mpus, and dis- 
 courses learnedly about the Titans, etc. ; but we 
 don't exactly get the hang of his remarks. The 
 Apostle Paul landed here, I think, when on his way 
 to Greece. Our next stopping-place is the Island 
 and city of Rhodes, where the great Colossus used 
 to stand, with its feet straddled across the mouth of 
 the harbor, for ships to sail in between its legs. 
 The Colossus is gone now, and the glory of Rhodes 
 has long since departed. It is the most strongly- 
 fortified town we have seen ; but a ramble of an 
 hour or two through its streets satisfies us that it is 
 a most miserable place. Boots tells us that in 
 ancient times Rhodes was one of the most magnifi- 
 cent cities of the world, and gives us a thrilling 
 account of how, in more modern times, it becamo 
 
346 hal's travels. 
 
 famous as the stronghold of the Knights of St. John 
 of Jerusalem, and was the scene of the most heroic 
 defences on record. But the valorous Knights were 
 finally beaten by the barbarous Turks. Their city 
 was taken from them, and they escaped to Malta. 
 jN^o Christian is now sufi'ered to dwell within the 
 walls of this city. Rhodes is the most eastern 
 island of the ^gean Sea. The apostle also touched 
 here in his journey to the West. "We pass many 
 other of the JEgean Islands, but have not time to 
 note the classic harangues delivered upon each by 
 our learned friend Boots. We note the island of 
 Coos, because it was one of Paul's stopping-places, 
 and Patmos, because it will ever be memorable as 
 the island to which John the Evangelist was ban- 
 ished, and where he wrote the book of Revelation. 
 We now approach the beautiful city of Smyrna, 
 a large city situated at the head of a long bay and 
 good harbor. It is beautiful to look at from the sea, 
 but an entrance into it convinces us that it is not 
 what it promised to be. Smyrna is the great fig 
 market of the world. Most of the figs we have in 
 the United States are brought from here. A great 
 many American ships are loaded here annually. In 
 wandering about the town, we are surprised to see 
 the great number of lambs that are being slaughtered, 
 and conclude that the Smyrnians are certainly the 
 greatest sheep-eating people in the world. At the 
 door of almost every house the bloody work is going 
 on. Our surprise, however, somewhat abates when 
 we are told that it is the eve of the Passover, and 
 
hal's travels^ 347 
 
 that it is tlie paschal lamb that is being slain. These 
 people all seem to join iu the great feast. "We find 
 the bazaars of Smyrna extensive and rich, almost 
 equal to those of Grand Cairo. It is a much better 
 built city than Cairo. One of the seven Churches 
 of Asia, mentioned in Revelation, was located in 
 this city. We visit the remains of an old amphi- 
 theatre, on the heights just above the city, where it 
 is said that Polycarp, an early Christian martyr, fell 
 a victim to the fury of the people and the wild beasts. 
 His tomb is hard by. The massive ruins on these 
 heights attest the greatness of this city in ancient 
 times. 
 
 Leaving Smyrna, we soon pass by the Island of 
 Mytelene, and Tenedos, and the Plains of Troy— and 
 here our friend Boots waxes eloquent indeed. Talks 
 about the Greeks and the Persians, the Macedonians 
 and the Trojans, the Phoenicians and the Romans ; 
 about Xerxes, and Ajax, and Achilles, and ever so 
 many other ancient worthies — all of whom he speaks 
 of as familiarly as if he knew them personally. lie 
 then enters into a lengthy dissertation upon the 
 gods and goddesses of old, and talks so learnedl}', 
 that we all gape and wonder with an admiration 
 equal to that manifested by the rustics when the 
 village schoolmaster spoke, as told by one Gold- 
 smith, lie told us of one Coelus, first King of 
 Heaven, who gave his crown to his son Titan, who 
 afterwards abdicated in- favor of his brother Saturn, 
 on condition that he (Saturn) should raise no male 
 children. Saturn's wife, Ops, soon after had twins, 
 
348 hal's travels. 
 
 whom the father had baked into a pie for the dinner 
 of himself and wife. Saturn did this barbarous 
 thing without his wife's knowledge, and treated it 
 as a good joke ; but she fainted outright, as most 
 women would have done, as soon as she knew that 
 she had helped to devour her own children. Ops, 
 like a dutiful wife, however, soon presented her 
 husband with another child, whom she called Ju- 
 piter. This Jupiter would no doubt have followed 
 the other children into a pie, had not Ops deceived 
 her cannibal husband by giving him a stone to eat, 
 telling him it was the child. She was vastly pleased 
 at the success of her stratagem, but she was forced 
 to keep the child hid in a cave on Mount Ida, (now 
 in sight,) out of the way of Saturn, where he was fed 
 on milk and honey, and grew up. Old Titan made 
 war upon Saturn as soon as he found that he had 
 a grown-up male child — a violation of the condition 
 upon which he obtained his throne. Jupiter proved 
 himself a real Jack the Giant-killer, in assisting his 
 father against the monster Titans. After subduing 
 the Titans, Jupiter drove his papa from the king- 
 dom, and assumed the reins himself. After firmly 
 establishing himself upon the throne of the kingdom 
 of Heaven, he divided the empire of the world with 
 his two brothers, who had grown up in secret as he 
 had. To Neptune he gave the sea, and to Pluto the 
 infernal regions. All these things Mr. Boots tells 
 us as we quietly steam along among the Grecian 
 Isles, where the occurrences are supposed to have 
 taken place. He tells us of a war waged against 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 349 
 
 Jupiter by the giants who wished to revenge the 
 death of their rchitions, the Titans. These giants 
 were earth-born monsters of great power, and used 
 rocks, oaks, and burning woods for their weapons, 
 and heaped Mount Ossa upon Pelion to scale the 
 walls of heaven. The gods lied from before them ; 
 went into Egypt, and assumed the shape of animals, 
 to screen themselves. Jupiter, however, soon rallied, 
 and, with his son Hercules, put the giants to flight. 
 After this war, Jupiter gave himself up to pleasure, 
 and as there was no law against bigamy or poly- 
 gamy, he married him several wives, and among 
 the rest his sister Juno. These wives could not 
 agree, and many black eyes and bloody noses were 
 the consequence. Jupiter and Juno were in the 
 habit of indulo-ins: in reo:ular "set-to's," the Madam 
 generally coming out second best; but she paid 
 Jupiter with interest, by pitching into his son Her- 
 cules, and giving him particular thunder. For this 
 injustice she was suspended from heaven, with an 
 anvil tied to her feet. Her son Vulcan, a deformed 
 blacksmith, undertook to release her, seeing which, 
 Jupiter raised his foot and kicked him clear over 
 the battlements of heaven, when he fell to earth, 
 performing the journey in nine days. He alighted 
 on the island of Lemnos, (past which we are now 
 sailing,) where he set up a blacksmith-shop, and em- 
 ployed his time in forging thunderbolts for Jupiter. 
 But it would be tedious to recount all the wonderful 
 stories told us by Mr. Boots. He left Juno still 
 suspended from heaven with the anvil tied to her 
 
350 hal's travels. 
 
 feet. Suppose she is still there. "What a comfort 
 it is to have such a learned man in our company ! 
 He knows some story connected with the gods, 
 about every island we pass. 
 
 We now enter the Strait of the Dardanelles or 
 Hellespont, w^iich divides Europe from Asia. The 
 strait is narrow, and fortresses frown upon us from 
 every height. We pass but one town that seems to 
 be important — Grallipoli. Boots tells us a story 
 about this town, but we don't remember it. He 
 points out to us the very place where Lord Byron 
 swam across the Hellespont. We now leave the 
 strait and enter the sea of Marmora, through which 
 wc ride in a storm that threatens to break things — 
 but don't. We get through safe. The storm dies 
 away, and we glide smoothly into the still waters 
 of the Bosphorus, when — O ye powers ! What a 
 scene bursts upon us ! The Queen of the East ! 
 The city of the Sultan — Constantinople — so beau- 
 tiful that we are bewildered. It looks like a city 
 made without hands. Had all the gods and demi- 
 gods known to heathen mythology put their heads 
 together and wrought for centuries, their united 
 labors could never have fashioned any thing more 
 beautiful. At the sight of this queenly city our 
 steamer seems to dash forward wdth increased speed, 
 and the white buildings and minarets rapidly grow 
 more and more distinct, until we distinguish the 
 celebrated mosque of St. Sophia and the Sultan's 
 palace. The steamer now turns a jutting point of 
 land called Seraglio Point, and glides at half speed 
 
hal's travels. 351 
 
 into the Golden Horn, the splendid harbor of Con- 
 stantinople. At this moment the gorgeous pano- 
 rama that opens to our view is one of tlie most ex- 
 traordinary that it is possible to conceive — and an 
 attempt to describe it would be a dead failure. A 
 bay surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, rising 
 one above another, covered with buildings, domes, 
 minarets, and fairy palaces, down to the water's 
 edge, intermingled with foliage of cypress groves. 
 The harbor is filled with ships, steamers, and caiques, 
 (pleasure-boats,) skimming about in all directions. 
 The scene is not surpassed in the world. "We stand 
 upon the deck of our steamer and take a protracted 
 view, drinking in the beauty around us. Get into 
 a caique and are rowed to the shore, and find our- 
 selves actually in the city of Stamboul. It is well 
 that we took a lingering look at the city before 
 lauding, for the poetry vanishes immediately, as we 
 start up the steep, narrow, muddy street, in search 
 of a hotel. The contrast is even greater than being 
 transported from the Fifth Avenue to the most filthy 
 alley in Five Points. 
 
 But as we design only to take a bird's-eye view 
 of the cities we visit, we must hurrv through Con- 
 stantinople in high -pressure style. We first call 
 upon our clever American Minister, Mr. Williams, 
 who kindly receives us, and gives us a clue to the 
 "ropes" of the city. There are nearly three hun- 
 dred mosques here, but we only visit a few of the 
 most noted, going first, of course, to the Mosque of 
 St. Sophia, the largest and most noted, having once 
 
352 hal's travels. 
 
 been a Christian cliurch, built by Emperor Constan- 
 tine. Christians are only admitted into this mosque 
 by special firman from the Grand Yizier, which we 
 obtain through much tribulation and large " back- 
 sheesh." After the mosques and the tombs of the 
 Sultans, we visit the celebrated palace and gardens 
 of the Seraglio, a faithful description of which 
 might possibly interest you ; but you must seek it 
 elsewhere. We next take a caique and make an 
 excursion of many miles up the Golden Horn, amid 
 scenes that can be properly called nothing but fairy- 
 like. Then we charter a diminutive steamer and 
 steam up the Bosphorus, and take a look at the 
 stormy waters of the Black Sea. The scenery along 
 the w^ay is as grand as it is beautiful. A great many 
 graceful palaces dot the shores of the Bosphorus. 
 The rest of our time we spend in wandering pro- 
 miscuously about the city, through streets that are 
 as filthy as they are narrow, and as crooked as they 
 know how to be. There are many open spaces and 
 squares, however, to relieve the monotony, and 
 fountains are innumerable. The bazaars are rich 
 and gorgeous beyond description, and are as nume- 
 rous as they are rich ; for all the business of Con- 
 stantinople is transacted in these bazaars. It is said 
 that an honest trader has never yet been found in 
 one of them ; and our experience has not been such 
 as to make us discredit the assertion. Villains all, 
 we believe them to be, but still we love to linger 
 among them ; for in these bazaars we see much to 
 amuse us. Every trade has its particular quarter. 
 
hal's travels. 353 
 
 In one street nothing is seen bnt arms and "weapons 
 of different descriptions ; another is filled with 
 jewels, diamonds, and precions stones ; some are 
 lined with the costly goods of India, while nnmbers 
 of streets are occupied by shoemakers, cooks, con- 
 fectioners, etc., each being confined to a distinct 
 district. The difierent trades are appropriated to 
 difl'erent nations, and each dresses in the costume 
 of his country : the Armenians, with their huge 
 black caps; the Turks, with their immense tur- 
 bans ; the Persians, with their high conical sheep- 
 skin caps ; the Greeks, with their long red tar- 
 bouches hanging gracefully on one shoulder; then 
 the passengers in every costume — Turks, Albanians, 
 Egyptians, Circassians, Greeks, merchants, sheiks, 
 dervishes, slaves, water-sellers, and occasionally a 
 European or American, in a trim black coat and a 
 two-stor}^ stove-pipe hat, looking altogether out of 
 place — all these give a motley yet picturesque 
 appearance to the bazaars. And not the least at- 
 traction here is the great number of Turkish wo- 
 men, pushing along through the crowd, and peeping 
 roguishly at us from under their thin veils. Beware 
 of them ; for, in their intense curiosity, they may 
 pick your pockets. 
 
 But a few days' rambling must satisfy us with 
 Constantinople. We are anxious to hasten on to a 
 country where there is less thieving and more civil- 
 ization. "We go aboard the fine French steamer 
 "Carmel," and take a last look at the fairest city 
 upon earth, (but very like a whited sepulchre,) 
 12 
 
354 iial's travels. 
 
 and set sail for Athens, leaving, with much regret, 
 our knowing friend Boots. In due course of time, 
 and the usual amount of sea- sickness — for the 
 weather is rough — we arrive at Pirseus, the port of 
 Athens. Lauding from the steamer, we take car- 
 riages and drive up one of the most lovely vales we 
 ever looked upon, surrounded by classic mountains, 
 so grouped as to form a landscape surpassed by 
 none. We whirl rapidly up the broad road five 
 miles, and in little more than one hour we are 
 standing upon the Acropolis, amid the ruins of the 
 great Parthenon. A more lovely day never dawned, 
 and the scene around us is perfectly enchanting. 
 "We know not which to admire most — the landscape 
 around, or the massive yet graceful ruins amid 
 which we stand. We glance alternately at one and 
 the other, and then look dowu upon the neat, clean- 
 looking modern city at our feet. The lovely plain 
 of Attica lies before us, dotted with vineyards and 
 olive-groves, and surrounded with the picturesque 
 and the beautifully tinted mounts of Parnes, Pen- 
 telicus, Hymettus, ^galoos. The south is open 
 to the sea — the Gulf of Salamis. It is hard indeed 
 to take our gaze from the delightful prospect, seem- 
 ingly more harmonious and pleasant to look upon 
 than any we have before seen. After gazing long, 
 however, we turn to the ruins, and grope amid 
 scenes of fallen splendor till we are weary with 
 walking. You have no doubt often read descrip- 
 tions of the great Athenian temples, and it would 
 be but a waste of time for me to attempt it. We 
 
hal's travels. 355 
 
 find the I'artlieuon and the Erectheum in a more 
 ruinous state than we expected ; but the Temple of 
 Theseus we find almost perfect, and one of the most 
 graceful buildings we ever saw. It is filled with 
 broken statues and works of art, found by the 
 modern Athenians in their excavations. Of the 
 Temple of Jupiter Olympus nothing now remains 
 but some twenty or thirty columns, very massive, 
 and adorned with highly-wrought capitals. We 
 visit the Amphitheatre of Herodes, the Prison and 
 Tomb of Socrates, and many other places of inte- 
 rest to the reader of Athenian history. 
 
 One place we visit with feelings of more than 
 ordinary interest. It is Mars Hill, on the top 
 of which the great Apostle of the Gentiles once 
 stood and delivered a stump speech that will be 
 read and remembered as long as time shall last. 
 We sit down upon the very spot and read a report 
 of that speech, which we find in the seventeenth 
 chapter of Acts. This little hill stands just between 
 the temples of the Parthenon and Theseus, and is 
 an admirable place from which to address a large 
 audience — and methinks the speaker had a large 
 audience that day — " for all the Athenians and 
 strangers which were there spent their time in 
 nothing else but either to tell or hear some new 
 thing." We can imagine that we almost see those 
 philosophers of Epicureans and Stoics, as thej^ came 
 forward and sneeringly asked, "What will this bab- 
 bler say ?" Then Paul proudly arose and stood " in 
 the midst of Mars Ilill," and told the proud Athen- 
 
356 hal's travels. 
 
 ians of tlieir ignorance and superstition ; and point- 
 ing up to the gorgeous temple of the Acropolis, we 
 can almost still hear his words ringing in the quiet 
 air as he said, " God that made the world, and all 
 things therein, seeing that he is Lord of heaven and 
 earth, dwelleth not in temples made loith hands!" 
 But, as might have been expected, some of those 
 philosophers mocked when they heard the sermon. 
 Some of the same sort live at the present day, and 
 would no doubt mock if Paul were to return to 
 earth and preach as he then preached. 
 
 But we must leave Athens. This document is 
 already getting lengthy, but we are bound to make 
 it carry us to Paris. We go through the modern 
 city of Athens, and are much pleased with the 
 beaut}'^ and cleanliness of the new part, but the 
 older part is horrible. The palace of King Otho is 
 a tasteful but not a gorgeous building. We go 
 through the King's gardens and gather a bouquet 
 of flowers, but as neither King Otho nor Queen Otho 
 are at home, we do not call at the palace. Rev. Dr. 
 King, the high-standing and popular American mis- 
 sionary and teacher, is our guide through the city, 
 to whom we return many thanks. Athens contains 
 a population of about fifty thousand. 
 
 We are oft' again on the bounding billows, and, 
 after doubling.Cape Matapan, see no more land until 
 we strike the coast of Italy, and enter the Strait of 
 Messina, when we " fetch a compass and sail to 
 Rhegium," and thence to the city of Messina, 
 which we find in a terrible state of confusion, the 
 
hal's travels. 357 
 
 place being in a state of revolt, and tlie soldiers 
 having possession of the city. It is with much diffi- 
 culty we get permission to land, the government 
 being terribly alarmed on account of a rumor that 
 Garibaldi is coming down upon them with filli- 
 busters. Our Consul finally gets permission, how- 
 ever, and we go ashore, to see nothing but closed 
 houses, gaping cannon in the streets, and myriads 
 of soldiers swaggering about, ready to cut down 
 any defenceless citizen who may chance to look 
 like a revolutionist. 
 
 A short visit satisfies us wdth Messina, pretty as 
 it is, and we return to our steamer, and, steering 
 clear of both Scylla and Charybdis, leave the Strait, 
 and gain the open sea, and are off for Marseilles, 
 w^hich we reach in little more than two days, with- 
 out incident, except two or three little storms, 
 which can be got up at any time on the Mediter- 
 ranean with five minutes' notice. Soon after leav- 
 ing Messina we pass the mountain and volcano of 
 Stromboli, whose glowing furnace looks most bril- 
 liant at night. We leave the coasts of Sicily, ex- 
 pecting and hoping soon to hear a good report from 
 it, for the Sicilians have taken a notion to free them- 
 selves from the galling yoke of tyranny that has so 
 long pressed them ; and if Garibaldi should effect a 
 landing with his daring fillibusters, the work will 
 be done — and woe to the house of Bourbon ! woe to 
 the upstart King of Naples ! Could we meet with 
 Garibaldi's expedition, we should be half inclined to 
 join it and help him in the glorious w^ork of freeing 
 
358 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 a downtrodden people. If the revolutionists in 
 Sicily succeed, Naples will follow — and then the 
 powers at Rome may tremble ! 
 
 But we have no time to speculate. "We approach 
 Marseilles. The verdant shores of France are before 
 us. Glorious sight ! "We have longed to quit the 
 troubled sea, and to reach a land where order pre- 
 vails. And here we are at last. How beautiful the 
 city ! N^ot like the cities of the East, only beautiful 
 from the sea, but its elegant houses, broad, clean 
 streets are refreshing. Marseilles, for elegance and 
 beauty, is only second to Paris. But we tarry not 
 here. Paris is before us, and two days' travel will 
 land us there, if we go straight through by rail. 
 But we must halt a little on the way. We must see 
 the extensive and magnificent remains of Roman 
 w^orks, especially the old Amphitheatre at Aries. 
 It is next in size perhaps to the great Coliseum at 
 Rome. And it will not do to pass through the 
 ancient and important city of Lyons without stop- 
 ping. Perhaps we may see some of the descend- 
 ants of the "Lady of Lyons" and "Melnotte." 
 "Who knows ? But if we do not, a look into some 
 of the great silk manufactories will pay us for 
 stopping. There are more than seven thousand 
 such establishments in Lyons ! These things, in 
 connection with the beautiful city, so well situated 
 at the junction of the Soane and Rhone rivers, 
 make it well worth while to tarry a day. 
 
 And Fontainbleau must be seen. We give a day 
 to it, driving through its extensive forest and gar- 
 
iial's travels. 359 
 
 den, and Avalking through the palace. One day is 
 not satisfactory, but we are in haste. 
 
 Paris at last ! and snugly housed in the Hotel de 
 Luxembourg, with my old friend John G. to keep 
 me company. How glad I am to find him once 
 more ! — and now for a good long rest. 
 
 Smith is here, Jones is here, and Miss Kissiah is 
 here. Brown and the rest are dispersed — some in 
 Italy, and some gone home. So our party is now 
 clean "busted up." AVe shall remain here some 
 time, for it will not do to leave Paris in May. 
 
 "When I feel sufficiently rested, I shall perambu- 
 late Paris with n\y good and faithful friend Smith, 
 after which I may write you again. 
 
 Yours, etc., Hal. 
 
360 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 LETTER XXXII. 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 I HAD intended to write yon a letter tliis morn- 
 ing, but upon reflection have concluded to write 
 only an apology. In piping times like these, com- 
 monplace letters from plodding correspondents are 
 of no interest whatever to the reading public of our 
 country, the taste of which has been wound up to a 
 blood-and-thunder pitch by politicians, bully mem- 
 bers of Congress, and "fancy" gentlemen of the 
 " ring." It is, therefore, unnecessary for me to shed 
 ink with the vain hope of interesting the worthy 
 people who have so many public interests to look 
 after, and who have so much to talk about. The 
 world is in a ferment, and things are happening and 
 are likely to happen everywhere — especially in our 
 own country, where the tug of war is setting in oif 
 a larger scale and more fiercely than that of Gari- 
 baldi with the Neapolitan Government. I am aw- 
 fully afraid that that horrid monster, so long looked 
 for, and so often predicted, is about stalking in at 
 last to frighten our people into spasms with his 
 gaunt, spectral visage, and gory locks. I mean the 
 crisis ! The signs of his coming are vivid, and if he 
 come, woe be to the faint-hearted ! 
 
hal's travels. 361 
 
 But, as I said above, I -write tliis note merely as 
 an apology, instead of a letter, and to reveal to you 
 the important fact that I am on the point of leaving 
 the capital of His Imperial Highness for that of Her 
 Royal Majesty. In other words, I have accepted an 
 invitation to eat roast-beef and drink 'alf-and-'alf 
 with my English cousins, and herrings with my 
 Scotch friends, not forgetting to call by and indulge 
 in a mess of "praties" with the honest Hibernians. 
 In short, I am going to " do" Great Britain. My 
 friend John accompanies me. 
 
 I have been trying to get my good friend Smith 
 to go, but can't. He is willing enough to go him- 
 self, and anxious, but the ]\Iadam says she is not 
 through with Paris yet. Smith groans in spirit, and 
 submits, but says he cannot hold out much longer. 
 Mrs. S. goes shopping " at all hours of the day and 
 in all kinds of weather," and has bought more goods 
 than poor Flora McFlimsey ever dreamed of. Smith 
 says the expenditures of his wife are intolerable. 
 But still he submits. A daj' or two ago the Madam 
 announced her readiness to leave, whereat the old 
 gentleman was in ecstasies, and came and informed 
 me of the decision with a beaming face. But an 
 hour after, the decision was revoked. She has now 
 determined to stay till after the funeral which she 
 feels confident will come off in a few da3^s. Prince 
 Jerome is very ill, and is expected every da}' to die. 
 She wants to witness the grand funeral pomp, which 
 she thinks will be one of the most imposing cere- 
 monies ever got up in Paris. She has a passion for 
 
362 hal's travels. 
 
 grand spectacles. (My private opinion is that it is 
 more of a passion for the company of Major Fitz- 
 doodle than any thing else that keeps Mrs. S. in 
 Paris ; but Smith must not know this.) 
 
 I regret leaving my good and faithful old friend; 
 and I verily believe he is sorry to part with me ; but 
 the parting must come. We have roamed the streets 
 of Paris both by day and night for several weeks to- 
 gether — in fact, we have been together daily for 
 months past : what wonder, then, that we should part 
 in sorrow ? 
 
 Latterly the old gentleman goes to the circus al- 
 most every night, while the Madam goes to the 
 opera with Major Fitzdoodle. She will not go to 
 the circus because she considers it "low," but is 
 willing, and even anxious, for her "kind and oblig- 
 ing" husband to go there. Smith says he don't 
 care a " cuss" for the circus, but he feels certain 
 that the fellow who performs upon the slackrope 
 will break his neck some night, and he is anxious 
 "to be in at the death." 
 
 Paris is very gay at this time, and is a hard place 
 to leave. But this is "the season" in London also. 
 "We go by the Isle of Wight, where Her Majest}^ is 
 sojourning at this time. 
 
 The Emperor review^ed his troops in the Bois de 
 Boulogne a few days ago, assisted in the arduous 
 duty by the Empress and the little Prince. It was 
 a brilliant spectacle. In returning from the review, 
 Mr. Smith and myself had the honor of riding near 
 the Emperor for a mile or more, and, as we rode in 
 
hal's travels. 363 
 
 a slow walk, had an excellent opportunity of enter- 
 ing into a conversation with His Grace — ^but we 
 did n't. We took off our hats to him, and he took 
 off his hat to us ; hut, like a modest man that he is, 
 he said nothing. 
 
 But I must close and pack up my duds, for I leave 
 for Havre, etc., at 12 o'clock. Good-bye. 
 
 Hal. 
 
 P. S. — My friend Smith has just been in to un- 
 bosom himself to me. He informs me with a very 
 long face that Mrs. Smith has gone and bought a 
 monkey, and has dressed it up in a suit of clothes 
 just like his. He is terribly distressed, and swears 
 roundly that he will not stay in Paris three days 
 longer. He was somewhat put out when his wife 
 bought the poodle dog, but the monkey has almost 
 filled the cup of his patience. H. 
 
364 hal's travels. 
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 PARIS TO LONDON. 
 
 I SENT you a brief apology from Paris last week 
 instead of a letter. You may think you are going 
 to get off again as easily. But don't flatter your- 
 self. I feel rather desperate to-da^^ and shall bore 
 you just as long as I please. This is a real London 
 day — dark, chilly, damp, and smoky — and as I can- 
 not go out to see the sights of the great metropolis, 
 I must let off steam by inflicting upon you a most 
 burdensome document. 
 
 On the same day I wrote you last, I bade fare- 
 well to Paris and my friends there — especially the 
 Smiths — and John and myself made tracks, on the 
 rail, for Havre, tarrying long enough by the way to 
 take a bird's-eye view of the ancient and classic city 
 of Rouen, where relics of antiquity meet the eye at 
 every turn, and where stands a statue of Joan 
 of Arc. Arriving at the great commercial city 
 of Havre — " the Liverpool of France" — we, for the 
 last time, before embarking for a land of freedom, 
 went through the nonsensical ceremony of having 
 our passports overhauled and vised. Then, after 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 365 
 
 partaking of an enormous beefsteak, and a quantity 
 of claret, we sallied out and took a look at the quaintly 
 built and eminently French - looking city; after 
 which we deposited ourselves at midnight on a 
 couple of shelves (called berths by courtesy) on 
 board the little wheezing steamer that plies between 
 Havre and Southampton. These shelves are said 
 to have been made to sleep on. That may be, but 
 the individual must have a copper-lined stomach 
 who can sleep on such a sea as we passed over that 
 night. The little steamer heaved and set all night 
 long — and the great load of passengers did likewise, 
 until we arrived in the quiet waters of Southampton 
 ba}^ at nine o'clock the following morning. I never 
 saw people "cast up accounts" (that's quoted from 
 Smith) with more earnestness than did that squad 
 of passengers. Tartar -emetic is a mere circum- 
 stance to a troubled sea. So, landlubbers, take 
 warning. 
 
 Having arrived at Southampton, we made all 
 haste to get away from it, for it is not a place for 
 one to hanker after, particularly in bad weather; 
 besides, we were greeted on every hand with that 
 vulgar vernacular, the English language. Every- 
 body spoke English, and we found our French, 
 which we had acquired with so much laboi-, utterly 
 useless. It was downright shocking, and strange 
 as it was shocking, to hear great round oaths rolled 
 out in English, after having been deprived of such 
 a luxury for nearly a year. You have little idea 
 how strange it seems to hear everybody speak 
 
366 hal's travels. 
 
 English, after the ear has been so long accustomed 
 to different sounds. 
 
 Leaving Southampton, we whizzed through a 
 portion of, perhaps, the best-improved and best-cul- 
 tivated country on earth, and about two o'clock 
 found ourselves enveloped in a dark mist, and 
 almost suffocated with coal-smoke. And this, if 
 nothing else, would have told us that we were enter- 
 ing London. Its horrible smell, dark smoked 
 houses, and crowded streets, were the same that we 
 had left them months and months before. 
 
 And so, here we have been now for six days — and 
 if I were to tell you that we had good weather for 
 one-sixth of the time, you might well doubt the 
 stor3^ It has rained twice since I commenced this 
 letter, (and I am not a slow writer,) and at the pre- 
 sent moment it looks like we are going to have a 
 storm. It would be but little exaggeration to say 
 that this is the character of the weather we have 
 had all the time. If it be thus in June, what must 
 it be in winter ? 
 
 Such being the character of the weather, I can't 
 say that we have enjoj^ed London to an enormous 
 extent, although we have been pretty constantly on 
 the pad. Between showers we frequently employ 
 the time in looking at Loudon and its masses of 
 humanity from the top of an omnibus. One day 
 we found it dry enough to visit the Royal Zoologi- 
 cal Gardens, which paid very well, for we there saw 
 animals, birds, reptiles, and fishes from all lands and 
 all waters. Another day, when it was raining, we 
 
HAL S TRAVELS. 367 
 
 had ourselves shown through the Bank of Enghand, 
 the greatest institution of tlie kind in the world. 
 It covers four acres of ground, and employs a thou- 
 sand clerks, etc. Between two and three million 
 dollars in notes are cancelled there daily. Wq were 
 politely shown through all the departments, and the 
 stories told us ahout the amount of business trans- 
 acted in each were so enormous that I have not 
 been able to retain them in my liead. I remember 
 one thing, however: In the printing department 
 we were told that six hundred reams of paper were 
 used per month to print bank-notes upon ! In one 
 room a gentleman placed in my hand a bundle of 
 notes which he said contained two millions and a 
 half. The bundle was not large nor heavy, but the 
 same amount in gold would have loaded several 
 wagons. (The threatened storm is upon us !) 
 
 Thursday morning last was dark and lowering as 
 usual, but John and myself determined to get the 
 soot and cobwebs from our throats and lungs by 
 breathing a little pure air. The Ascot races were 
 going on some twenty-five miles from the city, and 
 Thursday being the big day, there w^e determined 
 to go and witness the sports of an English turf. 
 These races are patronized by the Queen, and 
 Thursday is called the "Queen's Day." A7e went, 
 (it is but little more than an hour's ride by railway,) 
 and, although it was a showery day, everybody and 
 all their families seemed to be present. Hundreds 
 of temporary booths were reared on every hand for 
 the sale of refreshments — principally beef, beer, and 
 
368 hal's travels. 
 
 cakes — and John Bull did liis whole duty in the 
 way of eating and drinking. The racing was 
 spirited, and so was the betting. The finest horses 
 of the kingdom, and the noble patrons of the turf, 
 were all there. Upon the whole, it was a very gay 
 scene. A little after twelve o'clock the Queen and 
 all the royal family, accompanied by many noble 
 foreigners, arrived on the ground, in a procession 
 of fourteen fine carriages and a numerous host of 
 outriders in the most brilliant uniform. Their 
 Royal Highnesses were received with shouts of wel- 
 come, loud and long — for these English people love 
 their good little Queen very much. She acknow- 
 ledged the welcome with graceful bows and waves 
 of her hand, after which she took her place in the 
 royal stand, where we could all see and admire her 
 as much as we pleased. She is a dumpy little body, 
 but, according to my taste, has a remarkably sweet, 
 pleasant face — more rounded and fleshy than I ex- 
 pected to see — decidedly blooming and healthy — 
 which is a great blessing to her people, for if she 
 were a pale, delicate-looking woman, the Euglish 
 ladies would ruin their health trying to look like 
 her. She was dressed like any other lady, in plain 
 black, with a white bonnet, not gorgeously trimmed. 
 Prince Albert is a fine-looking man, but begins to 
 show age a little. I thought the Prince of Wales 
 looked rather verdant for a young man of his 
 advantages. The little ones of the Eoyal Family 
 all had clean faces, and looked as neat as if they 
 had just popped out of the bandbox. 
 
hal's travels. 369 
 
 Up to the time of the Queen's arrival, the racing 
 had been of minor importance ; but then the cele- 
 brated horses were brought out, and the great races 
 of the day commenced. Five, seven, eight, nine, 
 and, in one race, fourteen horses were started. 
 Tlie people became frantic, and for a time seemed 
 unable to hold themselves upon the ground. Even 
 royalty itself stood on tiptoe, until the result of the 
 latter race was announced, and then the air was 
 rent with yells that would have aroused the envy of 
 any savage ; and if throats were not rent, it was not 
 for want of an efibrt Don't understand me to say 
 that everybody yelled. Far from it: some were 
 sad enough ; for some were hundreds, and some 
 thousands of pounds poorer than when they arrived 
 on the race-course. 
 
 The great race being over, the royal family re- 
 tired, and so did we, and reached London in time 
 to take our six o'clock dinner of roast-beef and 
 brown-stout. 
 
 Horse-racing is a national institution in England. 
 So is foot-racing, jumping, lifting, wrestling, etc. 
 Consequently there arc more fine horses, and more 
 stout, healthy-looking men, than I have found in 
 any other country, except it be some parts of Ger- 
 many, where manly sports are a pastime. The 
 French are not near so stout or fine-looking as the 
 English, and the Italians are pigmies in comparison. 
 The Arabs, with few exceptions, are contemptible 
 specimens of humanity, and the Turks are little if 
 any better. Americans, in appearance, occupy a 
 
370 hal's travels. 
 
 medium place between the Englisli and French, ap- 
 proaching perhaps nearer the latter than the former 
 standard. Perhaps it may be, in part, owing to the 
 immense amount of beer that is swilled by the Ger- 
 mans and English, that gives them their superior 
 portly appearance. 
 
 Since the races, we have been circulating at ran- 
 dom in the parks, on Regent street, Piccadilly, in 
 the Strand, and steaming it up and down the 
 Thames. Nights we spend variously : one night to 
 the opera, another to the Haymarket Theatre, an- 
 other to the Adelphi, to see the performance of a 
 first-rate play, called, " Our Female American Cou- 
 sin," which is done up to admiration by Miss Daly ; 
 then we go to the Royal Prince's Theatre, to see 
 Richelieu and Pauline, and again to see the Christy 
 Minstrels, who are doing a smashing business in a 
 very poor way. They sing the oldest songs, play 
 the oldest tricks, and get off the most stale 
 and contemptible jokes and conundrums that you 
 can imagine. But the people laugh and applaud, 
 and that is sufficient. A joke or conundrum that 
 ■would be hissed in Huntsville, will ".bring down 
 the house" here. After seeing the Christy s once, I 
 must say that negro-shows are degenerating. Their 
 plantation melodies and dances, as sung and danced 
 in London, are about as true to nature as the Demo- 
 cratic party is to its pledges. 
 
 Yesterday (Sunday) we went to Exeter Hall, to 
 hear the big gun, Spurgeon ; but the big gun had 
 "gone oftV and we didn't hear him. We heard a 
 
iial's travels. 371 
 
 good sermon, nevertheless. A Mr. Northrup, 
 from the United States, (I don't know what part,) 
 did what he could towards filling the pulpit of the 
 big gun. I expected a "flash," but was agreeably 
 disappointed. He preached an excellent sermon ; 
 one that, had it been from Spurgeon, would have 
 been considered one of his best. But it was not 
 Spurgeon, and therefore many excellent people were 
 sadly disappointed. It was a good, old-fashioned, 
 plain sermon ; and I liked it, because it reminded 
 me of some that I had heard from board pulpits in 
 the woods, long, long ago, when people used to 
 come together and pitch their tents in the cool 
 shady groves, and worship God beside some silent 
 stream, or bubbling fountain. Mr. Northrup is a 
 good preacher, be he whom or what he may, or 
 where from. lie is drawing great crowds here, and 
 is, I doubt not, doing good. Success to him, and 
 all who preach simple truth ! 
 
 To-day we shall call upon our Minister, Mr. 
 Dallas, to get tickets, and to-morrow shall visit the 
 two Houses of Parliament. The day after, we go 
 to Sydenham, to visit the Cr3'stal Palace. Then wo 
 must go to Hampton Court, and many other places 
 of interest in and about London. Then ho ! for 
 other parts! Isle of Wight, Stratford -on -Avon, 
 Kcnihvorth, etc., etc., etc., etc. And some time, 
 when we get tired of seeing, we shall call and see 
 you all — perhaps. 
 
 I was thinking, a day or two ago, that I ought to 
 have written you a letter or two from Paris, giving 
 
372 hal's travels. 
 
 an account of what I saw and enjoyed in that city. 
 But then perhaps it was more merciful in me to 
 spare you ; for I could have written you nothing 
 but a batch of such stuff as this. I saw nothing 
 particularly new. Spent my time in the most use- 
 less way — dodging in here and out there, popping 
 up here and down there ; bobbing around generally, 
 as much pleased with ever}^ thing I saw as a child at 
 a Punch and Judy show. Lounged in the Garden 
 of the Tuileries, watching the gay and giddy 
 throngs of men, women, and happy children ; 
 strolled through the galleries, and admired the 
 pictures of the old masters, as well as the sculpture. 
 And then I walked the most gay and beautiful of 
 all thoroughfares — Champs Elysees, admiring the 
 jfine equipages, the beautiful women, and the fine 
 store-goods they carried on their graceful persons ; 
 also the Rue de Rivoli, and the Boulevards ; staring 
 in at the brilliant shop-windows, the like of which 
 is to be seen nowhere but in Paris. Then, often 
 the afternoon would find me in the Bois de Bou- 
 logne, (the finest park I ever saw,) where everybody 
 goes to enjoy themselves — to see each other — to 
 show their fine horses, fine carriages, and fine 
 clothes. There too the Emperor and Empress are 
 to be seen almost ever}- pleasant evening, his Impe- 
 rial Highness often driving his own horses — a span 
 of splendid blacks — one gentleman sitting beside 
 him, and two on the back seat. He dresses as other 
 gentlemen, and has no guard. The Empress seldom 
 rides with the Emperor, but in her own carriage, 
 
iial's travels. 378 
 
 with one or two ladies of the Court. She is always 
 accompanied by a guard of honor. So is the little 
 Prince Imperial, who also has his own carriage. I 
 have seen the Emperor on horseback, and little 
 Prince on a little white pony beside him. He is a 
 remarkable little fellow, to be little over four years 
 old. He rides his pony in a lope. 
 
 When looking at Napoleon III., like my sensible 
 friend Smith, I thought it something even to see a 
 man who is destined to fill as many pages of his- 
 tory as any man who has preceded him — a man who 
 is emphatically making history. I am persuaded that 
 he is the greatest man living, if not the greatest man 
 who ever lived. When ho speaks a word, it is re- 
 peated oftener, goes farther, and more importance 
 is attached to it than the word of any other man. 
 And I doubt if the man ever lived whose word in- 
 fluenced the world as does that of the Emperor of 
 the French. He says little, but he does a great deal. 
 Like a truly great man, he is even great in little 
 things. While managing his own great empire, and 
 at the same time looking over the affairs of the other 
 nations of Europe, he neglects not the smaller mat- 
 ters. He has works of public improvement going 
 on in every part of France — canals, railroads, turn- 
 pikes, and public buildings ; he encourages agricul- 
 ture, horticulture, and mechanics ; has an eye to the 
 public schools, and patronizes the fine arts, nor does 
 he neglect science ; gets up fairs in every section 
 of the country for the exhibition of every species 
 of industr}-, and awards munificent prizes. He 
 
374 hal's travels. 
 
 knows the healthful influence of public promenades, 
 places of resort, fetes, and amusements for the peo- 
 ple, and provides them. Under his guidance the 
 police regulations approach very nearly perfection, 
 and you will as vainly look for riot and disorder in 
 a French city, as for sobriety and decency at a New 
 York election. Order, cleanliness, and industry are 
 visible everywhere in France. In short, Emperor 
 Kapoleon seems to have an eye to and to promote 
 every thing calculated to advance his people, be it 
 small or great. His great mind seems to compre- 
 hend all, for while he conducts minor matters, he 
 commands his armies and his navy, and has but 
 to shake his finger to make proud nations tremble 
 before him ! Who but Louis JSTapoleon could have 
 taken the mass of vagabonds and fierce red republi- 
 cans, such as the French people were a few years 
 ago, and made such a people and such a govern- 
 ment ! I doubt if the man lives who could have 
 done so much. Happy indeed is it for the French 
 people, and for the world, that a man with such a 
 mind and such vast power is disposed to do right. 
 
 But where am I running to ? I did not intend to 
 say so much about the French Emperor, much as I 
 admire him. Hope you will excuse it. 
 
 When I left Paris I expected (or at least hoped) to 
 have been joined before this time by my friends Mr. 
 and Mrs. Smith. They have not come, nor do I now 
 expect them to arrive during my stay in London. I 
 have just received a letter from Mr. S. informing me 
 of their change of plan. It is in real business 
 
HAL'S TllAVELS. 8T5 
 
 style — short, aud to the point. It runs as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 Friend Hal : — You need n't expect mo in London. 
 Can't come. Sorry to disappoint you, but can't help 
 it. Mrs. S. has changed her mind. Prince Jerome 
 did n't die, as was expected, consequently my dear 
 wife will not be gratified with the sight of a roj'al 
 funeral-procession. She thinks it very provoking. 
 She has now taken a notion to go down to Fontain- 
 bleau instead of London. The Emperor and all his 
 folks have moved down there. We go to-morrow. 
 Major Fitzdoodlc goes with us. (And, privately, 
 my friend, between you and me, I say d — n ISIajor 
 Fitzdoodle.) He is an upstart. And yet I don't 
 know how to get rid of him, unless I pull his nose. 
 And that would not do, as it would wound the feel- 
 ings of my dear wafe, for she thinks the Major a 
 very nice man. And, true, he has been very kind 
 to her. 
 
 The Snob family leave to-day for London. You 
 will no doubt see them, as they intend stopping at 
 the same old place in Piccadilly. I did hope that 
 that young flirt, Julia, would take the Major with 
 her. But not so. 
 
 I am ghid to say that Mrs. S. is growling tired of 
 her monkey. Think she wnll give it up soon. She 
 has now bought a big green parrot, and a most in- 
 fernal noisy thing it is. 
 
 Hope you will have a good time with the British- 
 ers. Sorry I cannot be with you. 
 
376 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 That cussed fool of a rope-jumper at the circus 
 came very near breaking his neck last night. 
 
 Respectfully yours, Smith. 
 
 So, in all probability, I shall see my good friend 
 no more. I shall therefore hurry through my tra- 
 vels in the British Isles, and make a break for a 
 country where I can get corn-bread. 
 
 "Wish Smith a pleasant sojourn at Fontainbleau, 
 and -hope that something may turn up to give him a 
 chance to pull Fitzdoodle's nose. 
 
 The sun has now come out, and I will close and 
 go out to enjo}' its pleasant smiles. 
 
 Yours, etc., Hal. 
 
 P. S. — The steamer " Great Eastern" will sail for 
 l!^ew York next Saturday. I would take passage on 
 her but for a few reasons. First, I have not seen 
 enough of this country. Second, John is afraid to 
 risk his life on the first voyage of the monster, and 
 I can't leave him. Third, I understand the places 
 are all taken, and I could not get a berth even if I 
 wanted it. Fourth, and lastly, the great ship will 
 cause an immense sensation when she reaches Amer- 
 ica, and my own arrival, I fear, would be compar- 
 atively unnoticed by the great public; and that 
 would be mortifying, 3'ou know. The New Yorkers, 
 I guess, will find it difficult to contain themselves 
 when they see the Great Eastern in their waters. 
 "Wonder if they have got their City Hall rebuilt, so 
 they can get up another bonfire, as in the case of 
 the telegraphic cable ? 
 
nAL'S TRAVELS. 377 
 
 I guess you read the papers, and know what Gari- 
 baldi is doing ; that he has flogged the Koyal Nea- 
 politan troops, and captured Palermo, the capital of 
 Sicily. He has sworn that the King of Naples shall 
 no longer rule the Sicilians, and has made a glorious 
 beginning towards carrying out his oath. If he 
 does not take the Bourbon yoke from the whole 
 Neapolitan kingdom, I shall be mightily deceived. 
 I once thought seriously of going to Sicily, but when 
 I thought of the intensely hot climate, and the heat- 
 ing nature of the work likely to be encountered, I 
 thought it more prudent to keep at a distance. I 
 might, if seriously and urgently requested to do so, 
 consent to die for my own country. But then, to 
 die for the priest-worshipping, macaroni-eating Ita- 
 lians, is another thing altogether. 
 
 But still, I swing my cap in the air, and cry, " Vive 
 le General Garibaldi!" 
 
 It is now preparing to rain again, and I am 
 tempted to write several more pages, to kill time. 
 But I '11 spare you. H. 
 
378 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 
 
 LONDON TO ISLE OF WIGHT, STRATFORD-ON-AVON, ETC. 
 
 I AM on the wing now, and cannot take time to 
 burden you with much of a letter. I must, how- 
 ever, bring m}- self up "to the scratch" long enough 
 to pen you a running account — very brief — of the 
 incidents, adventures, and experiences, picked up 
 along the way since my last letter. 
 
 Before leaving London, John and myself spent 
 one day in the Crystal Palace; but to undertake to 
 give an account of so huge an establishment in one 
 little letter, would be downright presumption, not 
 to say foolishness. In fact, what I saw there is so 
 promiscuously jumbled and tangled in my mind, 
 that I doubt if I could write intelligibly about it. I 
 only have a confused idea of an immense building, 
 stored with some of almost every thing under the 
 sun. I have a dim remembrance of a thousand little 
 shops, and a thousand pretty girls behind a thousand 
 little counters, selling thousands and thousands of 
 little trinkets and gimcracks to the visitors; also 
 have a faint impression that there was an immense 
 amount of machinery, agricultural implements, stat- 
 uary, paintings, gardens, fountains, beasts, birds, 
 
hal's travels. 379 
 
 fishes, and reptiles ; wax-works, and specimens of 
 every stj^le of architecture, ancient and modern ; 
 restaurants, beer-saloons, and music in various parts 
 of the establishment. Also have an idea that the 
 building is made entirely of iron and glass, and 
 think that something was said by somebody about 
 its covering nineteen acres of ground — perhaps three 
 stories high. I remember that I did a most excel- 
 lent day's work in the way of walking through the 
 different departments of the palace. Blistered feet 
 impress this fact vividly. Was decidedly pleased 
 •with my visit, and am resolved to stay a week next 
 time I go. 
 
 Another day we spent at Windsor Castle — the 
 grand and magnificent old pile — founded by William 
 the Conqueror, and which has been the seat of royalty 
 ever since his day. Palace ver}- fine, but not so 
 rich as some in France. Park very extensive, 
 stocked with deer and buffalo, and in it an eques- 
 trian statue of George III., in bronze — the largest I 
 ever saw. Was shown " Heme's Oak," immortalized 
 by Shakspeare. The stock of "Merry Wives" is 
 not entirely extinct, judging by the gay and flaunt- 
 ing dresses we saw flitting about the lawns of 
 Windsor. The celebrated Eton College is at 
 Windsor. 
 
 Went to Exeter Hall one night in London, to 
 hear John B. Gough deliver himself of one of his 
 thrilling temperance lectures. Ho spread himself 
 for two hours, and poured out more eloquence than 
 I ever heard before — presenting figures gaunt and 
 
380 hal's travels. 
 
 ghastly, such as made the hair stand on end, the 
 blood run cold, and the very marrow chill in the 
 bones. And all the while he spoke he paced his 
 long stage from end to end like a chained bear, 
 looking more like a maniac than a rational being. 
 Should not be surprised if the man does go totally 
 deranged, for he really seems verging that way. 
 Towards the conclusion of his lecture, when he 
 seemed to have finished the work of annihilating 
 the monster intemperance, and just at the point 
 where he ought to have stopped, he travelled con- 
 siderably out of his way to lug in his abolitionism, 
 and denounced slavery, (stealing the words of that 
 Congress fellow,) as "the sum total of all villainy." 
 And this of course "brought down the house," as 
 might be expected of an English audience. He 
 wound up by announcing his determination to go 
 home and preach a crusade against slavery during 
 the Presidential canvass. I predict that John B. 
 Gough will be in the Lunatic Asylum before very 
 long. 
 
 Three or four days ago, having "done" London 
 as well as circumstances permitted, we packed up 
 our duds, and with perfectly dry eyes bade farewell 
 to our sorrowing landlady. At London Bridge sta- 
 tion we took the train, and a last look at the eter- 
 nalh'-befogged and besmoked old city. Two hours 
 express time, through a country of rare richness 
 and beauty, brought us to Brighton, on the sea- 
 coast — a city remarkable as a place of fashionable 
 resort for London sea-bathers — and more remark- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 381 
 
 able as a resort for Loudon Sabbath-breakers, as 
 you may judge when I tell you that excursion trains 
 run between London and Brighton every Sunday, 
 carrying passengers at less than one-fourth the reg- 
 ular fare. Consequently, many thousands who de- 
 sire to get on a "bust," escape from the vigilance 
 of the city police, and go to Brighton — provided 
 they can raise two-and-a-sixpence to pay their fare. 
 Without tarrying at Brighton, we hastened on to 
 Portsmouth — two hours farther — where we desired 
 very much to get a peep into the great Government 
 Dock-yard, where war-ships, cannon, and all sorts 
 of destructive materials are turned out. In this we 
 failed, for none but Her Majesty's faithful subjects 
 are permitted to see the savage preparations there 
 going on. We tried very hard to look like regular 
 beef-eating Britons, and in addressing the gate- 
 keeper I even adopted the cockney lingo, telling 
 tlie faithful guardian that we were "hanxious" to 
 see the "hoperation" of making the"'orrid him- 
 plements" of war. But the man at the gate, with a 
 knowing look, gave us to understand that he was 
 "up to snuff," and that Ave could not come it over 
 him with our "haitches." Intimated that he knew 
 a Yankee as for as he could see him. So, not being 
 able to see the Dock-yard, we had to content our- 
 selves vfith the other lions of the town, the which 
 we were kindly shown by Mr. B., a gentleman con- 
 nected with the public works, and to whom I had a 
 letter of introduction. We saw the fine old man-of- 
 
882 hal's travels. 
 
 war "Victory," the game on which Lord Nelsoji fell 
 in an engagement with the French fleet. 
 
 Late in the evening we quitted Portsmouth, and 
 on a little cockle-shell of a steamer were brought 
 safely to Cowes, and here we have been luxuriating 
 ever since in the beauties of one of the most lovely 
 isles of the ocean — the gem of all islands — the 
 crowning jewel of Great Britain. The Garden of 
 Eden could have been little fairer than the Isle of 
 Wight. 
 
 Yesterday we spent the entire day in riding about 
 from place to place in a carriage, visiting Carisbrooke 
 Castle, some old ivy-covered churches, and other in- 
 teresting spots. To-day we have made almost the 
 complete circuit of the island on the top of a stage- 
 coach. 
 
 Yes, the stage-coach ! "Who does not love to 
 travel by coach ? Ay, but it is glorious ! The 
 four large prancing horses — the hugely proportioned 
 coach — the short pursy driver in high-topped boots, 
 with fair round belly, fat red face, and two peering 
 little eyes, twinkling on each side of a big purple 
 nose, on which the delicate gin-blossoms are just 
 beginning to bloom ! And then the proud flourish 
 and cracking of the long whip — the " windir\g of the 
 mellow horn" — the start, and brisk clatter through 
 the village streets, to the mortal terror of old wo- 
 men and little children, who scramble out of the 
 way, and look enviously at us as we pass ! How 
 like the olden time before the innovation of the 
 
nAL'S TRAVELS. 883 
 
 railway ! It is a good thing to travel by stage-coach 
 over these firm, smooth English roads ! I was hon- 
 ored with a seat on the box by the side of our 
 dumpy little driver, whom I soon found to be a very 
 knowing man, and not at all disposed to hide his 
 light under a bushel, lie had imbibed a sufficient 
 number of "horns" to make him "mellow," and was 
 therefore in a capital humor for imparting just such 
 information as I desired. lie knew the island per- 
 fectly, and could tell the history of every old church, 
 castle, and ruin upon it. He told me he had been 
 driving the coach here for just twenty-one years ; 
 but to hear him talk, one might think he had been 
 driving for centuries, and had known the island in- 
 timately since the days of its Norman conquerors. 
 He knew the very spot on which the fugitive Charles 
 I. landed, the room in which he was imprisoned in 
 Carisbrooke Castle, and pointed out the very win- 
 dow from which the unfortunate King made several 
 unsuccessful attempts to escape. Knew Osburn 
 House perfectly, and seemed intimately acquainted 
 with the private chambers occupied by Her Majesty 
 during her visits to the island. Had heard of Legh 
 Richmond, and the Dairyman's Daughter, and had 
 even gathered iiowers from little Jane's grave on 
 one occasion for one of his lady passengers. His 
 knowledge, however, was confined entirely to the 
 island, as I discovered when I took out my pipe for 
 a smoke. He asked me where I had got such a 
 " 'orrid houtlandish pipe ?" Told him it was a pipe 
 I had ffot an artist to carve for me in Jerusalem, 
 
384 hal's travels. 
 
 from a knot of olive-wood. He repeated the word 
 "Jerusalem" several times, and said lie thought he 
 had heard of the place before. Asked if it was in 
 the United States. 
 
 You must know that the Isle of "Wight seems 
 almost like holy ground to me. Many years ago I 
 read some little books which gave me a strong 
 desire to see the island; and now that I am upon 
 it, it seems that I am treading upon sacred soil. 
 The little books I allude to are those written by 
 Rev. Legh Richmond, the foremost and best of 
 which is, I think, "The Dairyman's Daughter," a 
 little book that no one can read attentively without 
 profit; and I heartily recommend it to all my young 
 friends — ay, and older ones too. Also, the "Young 
 Cottager," and "Cottage Conversation." Also, 
 some little books of perhaps no less value, by Rev. 
 W. Adams : " The Shadow of the Cross," " The 
 Distant Hills," "The Old Man's Home," and "The 
 King's Messengers." The reading of these little 
 simple stories gave a charm and a beauty to the 
 whole island that I could not have otherwise seen. 
 I trust they may all continue to be read as long as 
 time lasts. A visit to some of the old churches and 
 churchyards has been exceedingly interesting, and 
 even edifying. Brading Church, where the good 
 Richmond used to preach the pure and simple 
 gospel truth, is a pleasant place to visit. And just 
 beside the church is the grave of "Little Jane," the 
 pure "Young Cottager," whose simple story has 
 been so extensively and profitably read by multi- 
 
hal's travels. 385 
 
 tudes of people. I have copied the Hues inscribed 
 on her tomb : 
 
 " Yc who the power of God delight to trace, 
 And mark with joy each monument of grace, 
 Tread lightly o'er this grave, as ye explore 
 The short and simple annals of the poor. 
 A child reposes underneath this sod — 
 A child to memory dear, and dear to God. 
 Rejoice, yet shed the sympathizing tear, 
 Jane, the 'Young Cottager,' lies buried here!" 
 
 In Arreton churchyard is the grave of the good 
 and lamented Mr. Adams. It is a simple, unpre- 
 tending tomb, and above it is suspended a metal 
 cross, so that whenever the sun shines, its shadow 
 is cast upon the white marble slab which covers the 
 tomb. This was done in honor of the little book he 
 wrote, entitled, "The Shadow of the Cross." I 
 thought the monument quite appropriate. 
 
 In the same churchyard is the tomb of Elizabeth 
 Wallbridge, "The Dairyman's Daughter." There 
 are three grassy hillocks side by side. One of these 
 has a tombstone to the memory of Elizabeth ; an- 
 other has a stone in memory of her sister; the 
 other, which has no stone at all, is over the father 
 and mother. I also copied the lines from this tomb, 
 rather long, but at the risk of being tedious I shall 
 insert them here, for I know they will be gladly 
 read by all who have read the touching story of 
 " The Dairyman's Daughter :" 
 
 " Stranger ! if e'er, by chance or feeling led, 
 Upon this hallowed turf thy footsteps tread, 
 13 
 
386 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Turn from the contemplation of the sod, 
 And think on her whose spirit rests with God. 
 Lowly her lot on earth ; but He who bore 
 Tidings of grace and blessings to the poor, 
 Gave her, his truth and faithfulness to prove, 
 The choicest treasures of liis boundless love : 
 Faith that dispelled affliction's darkest gloom ; 
 Hope, that could cheer the passage to the tomb ; 
 Peace, that not hell's dark legions could destroy ; 
 And Love, that filled the soul with heavenly joy. 
 Death of its sting disarmed, she knew no fear, 
 But tasted heaven e'en while she lingered here. 
 happy saint ! may we, like thee, be blest — 
 In life be faithful, and in death find rest !" 
 
 We also found it pleasant to visit tlie cottages 
 once occupied by the "Dairyman's Daughter," and 
 " Little Jane." A description of these cottages and 
 churches, and the surrounding scenery, will be 
 found vividly and beautifully depicted in the little 
 books I have mentioned. 
 
 I have written more than I intended, but I hope 
 you will read it with good nature. I shall close 
 now, and take a little sleep. To-morrow we go 
 north, to visit Oxford, Warwick, Stratfond-on-Avon, 
 Kenilworth Castle, etc. Will finish this letter, and 
 mail it, after I have seen those places. For the 
 present, adieu. 
 
 Stratfoed-on-Avon, June 21, 1860. 
 
 The thoughts and emotions in my heart this 
 morning are almost too big for utterance. To be 
 silent would therefore be more seemly. I must tell 
 you, however, that I am here — here in Stratford-on- 
 
hal's travels. 387 
 
 Avon — the place wlicrc Sliakspeare was bom, and 
 lived, and died — and wliere his bones are buried. I 
 have seen tbe room in wliicli lie was born — wliere 
 lie was nursed, " mewling and puking in his nurse's 
 arms" — the great broad lireplace by which he was 
 taught his ABC, and where he was no doubt often 
 spanked and sent to bed for his waywardness. I 
 have sat in the chair in which he sat, and seen the 
 table on which he wrote. His tomb is in the great 
 old church which stands on the margin of the sweet 
 flowing Avon, and his famil}' repose beside him. 
 
 And besides the emotions caused by the know- 
 ledge that I am where Shakspcare lived, and look 
 upon scenes that he looked upon, I am even domi- 
 ciled at the "Red Horse Tavern," in the same 
 room, and writing upon the same table on Avhich 
 the immortal Geofircy Crayon wrote his sketches. 
 His picture hangs upon the wall, and the identical 
 sceptre he held in his hand, when "monarch of all 
 he surveyed," is reposing by the fireplace, in the 
 shape of a huge iron poker. The words " Gcoifrey 
 Crayon's sceptre" are engraved upon it, and shown 
 by mine host with much gusto. AYashington Irving 
 is almost as well known here as Shakspearo. 
 
 I have just returned from a pleasant walk of a 
 mile across the fields to the cottage of " Sweet 
 Anne Hathaway." Travelled the same road, no 
 doubt, that wild Will used to travel, when paying 
 stolen visits to his Anne, when she was less repu- 
 table, perhaps, than in later years. It is a neat 
 thatch-roofed cottage, with a venerable look, and is 
 
388 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 said to be still occupied by descendants of the Hatb- 
 aways. They show some ancient furniture, said to 
 have belonged to Anne. 
 
 I have been to Warwick, visited Warwick Castle 
 and Guy's Cliff, and seen many things there, old, 
 quaint, and curious. Have also visited Kenilworth 
 Castle, a venerable old ruin. Saw the tower in 
 which the lovely but unfortunate Amy Robsart was 
 confined, and was shown the grotto in which she 
 was discovered by Queen Elizabeth, on her visit to 
 Kenilworth. But all these things are too much to 
 put in this letter. 
 
 We now leave for the ancient city of Chester, 
 and from there we go to Bangor, in Wales, to see 
 the great tubular and suspension bridges across the 
 Aienai Straits, and the immense slate quarry near 
 that town, where four thousand eight hundred men 
 are engaged in quarrying slate. Then, ho ! for a 
 visit to the "cannie Scots" and the "wild Irish- 
 men." So, till you hear from me again, good-bye. 
 
 Hal. 
 
 P. S. — I will not bore you with the political news 
 from this side the water; but really the Eastern 
 world seems to be in a ferment. Sicily, under the 
 influence of Garibaldi, is boiling like a pot — Naples 
 seems on the eve of being wiped out — the Vatican is 
 thundering ominously, and Ireland is in a stew, 
 sending off recruits for the army of his Holiness — 
 Sardinia is trembling between the menaces of Eome 
 and Austria — Turkey is cowering beneath the out- 
 
HAL'S TRAVELS. 389 
 
 stretched claw of Eussia ; and even John Bull is 
 turning pale before the fancied hostile intentions 
 of the French Emperor. So you see Europe is in a 
 perfect hubbub. And even in Asia Minor the work 
 of blood is going on. I have just received a letter 
 from the American Consul in Beyrout, which closes 
 as follows : 
 
 " Syria is now in a blaze of civil war. More than 
 sixty villages have been burned. Hundreds of 
 Christians have been killed, and the work of blood 
 is still progressing. The Druses, aided by the 
 Turks, obtain the victory everywhere. We are 
 only saved from a Moslem insurrection in Beyrout 
 by the presence of a Russian frigate." 
 
 This war was brewing when I was in Beyrout. 
 
 H. 
 
390 HAL'S TRAVELS. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Now, good friends, we will cease our wanderings. 
 "We have had a long tour, which I trust you have 
 found pleasant, and not altogether unprofitable. 
 "We have seen much to condemn, and much to 
 approve ; much to laugh at, and much to sorrow 
 over. "We have pressed through swarms of gaunt 
 beggars, and jostled against gilded nobility — the 
 oppressed and oppressors crowding along the same 
 streets. The latter we looked upon with indigna- 
 tion, while we enjoy the consoling thought that our 
 coppers have often appeased the gnawing hunger of 
 the former. We have been often vexed by police 
 and custom-house officers, and cheated times almost 
 without number. But these are petty annoyances 
 that all must submit to who go out to see the world 
 as it is, and they should be borne with patience. 
 
 At some future time I may ask you to accom- 
 pany me further through the kingdom of Great 
 Britain, when we will visit the manufacturing cities 
 and rural districts of England, the mountainous 
 regions of Wales, the cities and highlands of Scot- 
 land, when we will climb the Bens and sail upon 
 
hal's travels. 391 
 
 the Lochs of that classic country ; and then through 
 Ireland, where "praties" abound, and many queer 
 things are to he seen. 
 
 For the present, farewell ; and may the remainder 
 of your journey through life be as pleasant as our 
 late travels have been to me ! So mote it be. 
 
 THE END, 
 

 Date Due 
 
 
 'AurH*3^^ 
 
 
 
 
 nwfe^ '^ •'*' 
 
 
 
 
 APR 3 '4^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Llbrvy Buraaa Cat. no. 1137 
 
914 W656 
 
 1637 
 
 Wi g gg 
 
 Hal*s Travels 
 
 ISSUED TO 
 
 i:36^_ 
 
 IPB3 ^5 ^4^d. 
 
 
 914 W656 
 
 163745