PERKINS LIBRARY V Dulce U niversity ^arc Boole: Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/accountofjourneyOOskip . A N ACCOUNT O F A JOURNEY Made Thro’ Part o£ the Low-Countries , Germany , Italy , and France. By Philip Skippon, Efquire. *• • " " • - - ■• • •. ■ . . 7 . • • ‘ U A X y » 4 r ‘ ,.... r > * \ ■ V a z o ~ »• --*• , / _ * r yf ■ *' 1 cr j i r >L* *. - T si i • ■ r ». »-J i .’- v V'- ’1.. . . ■ . . ... .. : i Jk. Canterbu¬ ry- t)over. The Cajlle %6l An ACCOUNT of a JOURNEY made thro Part of the Low-Countries, Ger¬ many, Italy and France. A PRIL ij. 1663. St. Vet. being Friday , Mr. and myfelf took horfe at Leeds in Kent , and rode to Canterbury 20 miles, and 15 miles farther we arrived at Dover , where we flay’d all night, and met the reft of our company, viz. Mr. Willughby and Mr. Bacon , with two fervants, who came poll from Gravefend . ^>rz 7 18. In the morning we went up to the caftle, feated on a high hill, garifoned by 1 50 foldiers, and governed by C. Stroud •, without the walls is a deep trench, and with¬ in nigh 30 acres of ground here ftand the ruins of a church, and the palace, a compad building, now fomewhat defaced a broad pair of flairs make the afcent into two or three large rooms •, fome fmall impreffions were made by cannon bullets in the fiege 1648. Within the caftle walls are three wells, one in the outward fpace about 60 fathoms deep •, a ftone let down perpendicularly in¬ to it, ftrikes againft the fides many t mes. Another well at the palace in the inner fpace about 80 fathoms deep ; it has a little houle over it, where they put two affes into a great wheel which being mov’d round by them, brings up the bucket of water: the third well is near the broad flairs of the palace. In a little vault where beer is fold, we faw the brafs horn call’d Julius Cafar’s, the found whereof gave notice to the work¬ men to begin and leave off their days work, when they were building this caftle. Below the cliff, and under the caftle, is a platform, with guns that command the fea near the fhore. On the walls of the caftle are many platforms, having great guns mounted, among which one we obferv’d about 23 foot long, made in Flanders , 1544 the bore of it is fmall. In this caftle we faw a Aurky ram with four horns, two of the horns recurved like a goat’s, the other two hanging down by his ears, which were much larger than our ordinary fheep’s •, his fnout was arched, and his tail cut off becaufe it trail’d upon the ground -, the body feem’d not much bigger than our common fheep ; the wooll was coarfer. The town of Dover is large and long, fituated under the cliffs •, it is a corporation, and fends two parliament-men to the houfe of commons. The haven has a peer of wood, and not far off is a ware-houfe of an indifferent bignefs. Before we entred the packet-boat, we pay’d to the clerk of the paffage four- Vol. YI. pence cuftom for a trunk, and two-pence Sktppo- a portmanteau, four {hillings and ten-pence for tranferibing a pafs for four perfons, and three fhillings and fix-pence for tranferib¬ ing a pafs for two perfons. To the water- bailiff one fhilling ; to the mafter of the ferry one fhilling and fix-pence a man •, i. e. one fhilling town-cuftom, and fix-pence forhimfelf. To the fearcher, fix-pence a man for writing down our names, and we gave him two fhillings and fix-pence be¬ caufe he did not fearch us. April 18. About two in the afternoon we went aboard the packet boat; about eight in the evening we were becalm’d, and were forced to lie two leagues fhortof Calais till the morning, and then about five o’clock we arriv’d at Calais-fhcr:c, having fail’d eight leagues from Dover. We gave five fhillings a man for our paffage, and five fhil¬ lings for the ufe of the mafter’s cabbin.Two French boats met us off at fea, and boarded us, and paying three-pence a-head to the mafter of the ferry, we enter’d one of the boats in the haven ; but before they would fet us afhore, after much wrangling with thofe brawling fharking fellows, we were forced to give them fix-pence apiece. When we came to the town gate, the fearchers opened our portmanteaus: they can demand nothing for fearching, except any new things are found, as filk ftockens, laced bands, &c. for which there a confiderable cuftom muft be paid. When we came to Cih'.s, our inn, we repos’d our felves till noon, and then walk’d over a large fquare market- place,where there is a market twice a week, viz. on Tuefdays imd Saturdays. The town- houfe ( maifon de la Ville ) hath a fair tower *, the hall for lawyers courts was burnt down 1659. We view’d Nofre Dame church, N.Darne. and faw many altars drefs’d with pidures, church, &c. The high altar is curious wood-work, adorned on one fide with the llatue of Char- lejnagne , on the other fide with the ftatue of St. Louis , and on the top the virgin Alary. To this church belong 20 priefts, the chief of which is Le Douen. On the north fide of the church is a monument ereded to Sir Andrew Toung , an Englifhman , Baron de Baume , who dy’d 1637. In the church¬ yard the tombs are fet up on the wall, as in Scotland. While xhey are at their devoti¬ ons, the poor will beg of flrangers and others in the church. We vifited the nuns of the Dominican order, they were 28 in ^- can number ; their chapel is a plain building Zzzz without c \A Journey thro’ Part of the [Low C, without and within •, none of the nuns ap¬ pear in the chapel, but their finging may be heard thro’ the wooden grates in the wall, we were brought into a little parlour, and difcourfed through a wooden grate with two of them, (one could fpeak a little Englijh). They fold us feveral things made of ft raw, and faints bones wrought up in wax, and made at Rome , which were imprefs’d with the faint’s effigies; they did not give them immediately to us with their own hands, but put the leffer thro’ the grate, and the bigger things into a cy¬ lindrical box, which having a hole in one fide, they turn’d the box, and then we took the things out of it. They would not fhew us their faces. Befides the grate they have a curtain within, and they have a maid that hands nigh the altar to put out fame of the candles when fervice is done. They chufe their abbefs once in three years. Another nunnery call’d the Hofpital. At the convent of the Minnums who are of the order of St. Francis de Paolo , we faw a poor maid in the church, who (they fayj was three years before mira- culoufly cured of a pally and afthma in a quarter of an hour’s time, by praying be- fore St. Francis his pidlure, fne herfelf telling us that fhe was thus fuddenly re- ftor’d to her health and ufe of her limbs, after fne had been four years diftemper’d ; her picture hangs up there, praying to that faint, and underneath are her crutches. And we alfo obferv’d a great many legs, arms, hearts, &c. of wax, being refem- blances of fuch parts as were cur’d. The friars brought us into their parlour, where the ftory of St. Francis is painted in feve¬ ral pictures, and we were in one of their cells, where they fhew’d us a piece of our Saviour’s crofs brought out of England , and a piece of thefpunge us’d at the paffion. They have a fmall library, and garden •, 20 monks did belong to this place, but now they are reduc’d to 12. Their cells are mark’d 1, 2, 3, April 20. being Rogation week, we faw their proceffion. We went to the Capuchins chapel, but faw nothing there remarkable. Calais is populous, it hath two gates, one at the haven, and the other very hand- fome, call’d la Porte Royalle. The houfes are much after the Scotch fafhion, built of brick, and tyl’d *, their windows are half glals, and the lower half is a wooden cafe- ment. The great church (Ncfire Dame) and a large lquare Hone building,were built by the Englijh. Many of the women wear green rugs in cold weather about their heads and fhoulders, like the Scotch plads ; they call’d this rug line mante. A ftrong old wali made by the Englijh encompaffes the town, and a deep trench full of water round about it, and wirhout this trench is a new wall, built about 35 years ago, with two trenches of water about it. They would not fuffier us to go up any fteeple to view the town, nor permit us to go into the citadel, which is large, and within the walls of Calais ; two forts be¬ fides and bulwarks without the walls. The number of the foldiers in garifon is fome- times 2000, fometimes 3000, more or lefs. The prefent governor’s name is Monf Le Conte de Chano , one of the four captains of the king’s guard, marefchal de Camp, coun- fellor to the king, governor of Calais and le pais Conquis. Soon after we came to Ca¬ lais we fent our names to him •, drums and trumpets gave us their falutes. Old Calais is not fir diftant. Hereabouts and in the town are 22 windmills. The government of Calais is by a mayor Govern - and four efehevins chofen by the freemen ment. every year •, the eldeft efehevin is deputy mayor. None can be mayor except he hath firft been treafurer and four times efehevin. There is a court of juftice to decide controverfies between merchants. The Hugonots or Protejlants that are freemen, are not capable of the aforefaid honours; the governor can arbitrarily dif- pofe of the town offices. On the finds near Calais we found grow¬ ing Rhafnnus H Dicfc. and Cochleana mi¬ nor rotundifclia. April 21. paying firft to the fearchers at the gate five-pence a portmanteau, and five-pence a trunk, and five-pence for a pals through the Gate , and eleven-pence for a pafs to Greveling and Dunkirk , we went into our waggon, and travelled by Oye in a fenny level. Some diftance be¬ fore we came to Greveling , our porman- teaus were vifited by a troublefome fearch- er, notwithftanding the pafs we procur’d in the morning ; then we ferry’d over the river Aa in a boat, which was pull’d over by a rope that crofs’d the water. Four leagues from Calais we arriv’d at Greve- Greveling ling , paffing firft over five draw-bridges. Many trenches, ftrong bulwarks, and a firm wall about this place. The houfes are poorly built, being a frontier of Flanders which is divided from France by the Aa ; the ftreets are broad and well paved; we faw Notre Dame church, and gave a vifit to the Englijh nuns of the order of St. En0 .] lfh Clare ; the name of the abbefs was Taylor ; Nuns Hie fpake very civilly to us, and told us °f St -Clare they were in number 44. They live very ftri&ly, and never fee the face of any man ; the bars were of iron that we difeours’d through. They have a large houfe and garden. About eight years ago part of their chapel was blown up with the maga¬ zine of the town. The abbefs is chofen for life by the major vote. Another jCow Cl Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 363 Dunkirk. Gilds. Govern tnent. Englifli Hum of St. Clare. 4 Another nunnery of 14 black nuns. And a monaftery for 14 recollets. A large market-place, where are mar¬ kets on Wednejdays and Fridays. He that is governor of Dunkirk is go¬ vernor of this place. They would not permit us to walk the fortifications. After dinner we pafs’d in fight of Bor- borgh deeple, and riding a fiindy way by little hills, we law the ruins of Mardyck fort. The country hereabouts is much fpoil’d by wars. In the evening we entred Dunkirk , and the next morning, April 22. we had drums beating at our chamber door. About five or fix months before, the town was garifoned by 5000 EngliJJo foldiers, but now fold to the French king for 5,000,000 hvres j the governor is mon- fieur le Strade ambaffador at the Hague , and his deputy-governor is the marquis Monpejfo.nt ; there are about 3000 in ga- rifon. The foldiers have two or three ftreets of uniform lodgings, two (lories high, three beds in the lower room and two above, and three foldiers lie in a bed. We went in a boat to the fort built lately by the Englifh ; it is on the find, which by fome winds is fo driven, that you may walk over the walls. The Englijh made two firm bulwarks which com¬ mand the fea, and under them is a broad platform, and then a thick wall (not yet finifh’d) and within the wall is a pafiage for foldiers to (land in, and fhoot through ; a trench round befides; beyond the fort, towards the fea, is another find. There are three gates befides the Watergate; the town is not fo populous as Calais. Mod of the dead are buried in a church with¬ out the fuburbs, and a little chapel called St Louis. The Stadthuys is a good (lone building •, there are three market-places, one for corn, another for fiflh, and a third for herbs, called the green-market. There are three gilds or fraternities, firfl, of the crofs bowfecond, the hand- bow •, third, the mufket. St. George is patron to the firfl, St. Sebajlian to the fecond, and St. Barbara patronefs to the lad. Dunkirk town is govern’d by 16 magi- drates, who out of their own number make a yearly choice of two bailiffs and a burgo- mader. The freemen ele< 5 t die 16. The buildings are fair and uniform, and the dreets broad and handfomely pav’d. St. Pe/^r’s-dreet is fo called from his datue erefted there. We vifited the Englijh nuns of the or¬ der of St. Clare, which are 10 in number : they told us, that they came from Greve- ling , and that 17 of their order remov’d themfelves to Rouen. They never eat flefh ; we went into their chapel, and then Skippon. through a wooden grate we had liberty to fee one or two of them in their habits, but would not difeover their faces. The abbefs’s name is Browne. They perform their devotions fix times in 24 hours. They wear a cord about their waid, with which they difcipline themfelves. We went then to another nunnery of Englifh Englijh, called the rich nunnery, and being Benedic- admitted into a parlour, a curtain was tmc L '' lin ' drawn, and we had freedom to fee and difeourfe with the ladies; about five or fix giving us the entertainment of their com¬ pany through an iron grate •, the lord Rivers's daughter and one Mrs. Carew were two of the ladies we faw •, the ab- befs of Guanl is their abbefs. Thefe nuns tranfplanted themfelves hither about a year ago, and are 13 in number, which is not limitted. If any defire to be ad¬ mitted, they havetwoyears tryal; the fird year they may go abroad, the fecond they are more drift, but yet have liberty to recede •, they have a fchool-midrefs to teach young gentlewomen to work, fing, &c. Thefe nuns fay their publick prayers five times a day, lpend two hours in re¬ creation among themfelves, and the red of their time in private. They told us, that at St. Omer's are kept the bodies of two or three Englijh flints. The Bene¬ dictine nuns are dinted in time for work, and an hour before dinner is allotted for mental prayer. At the cloider of the Annunciata are white nuns. The black fidersornuns attend on the hofpital. We faw a procefllon of 13 recollets; Recolhts. they are barefoot, but go on wooden lan- dals. In this town is a cloider of Carme¬ lites and another of Minnums. Thejefuits have a fair college and a Jefuitt handfome church ; two tall marble pillars College. fupport the gallery the organ is on. Here are many piftures reprefenting the fuffer- ings of jeluits in Japan. Arms, legs, &c. of wax hang up on the walls of the church. On the left hand of the high altar was written Sacellum reliquiarum. Theconfeffing feats are handfome. We view’d the great church, which is The great fair and large, adorn’d with good piftures, church. as the dories of St. Sebajlian and St. Aga¬ tha ; the virgin Mary is well drawn ; and there is a very great pifture of the refur- reftion at die wed end, drawn from a little original, Rattohamar the author. The high altar is very fumptuous, built of marble, and encompafled with black mar¬ ble pillars •, two flately high candledicks (nigh 10 foot high apiece.) There are con¬ tinual prayers laid whild the facramentis fee 3 ^ 4 - Skippon. fet on the altar, two of a religious order being on their knees, till other two come. We obferv’d the Hatues of St. Law¬ rence and St. Giles , &c. In this church are 15 chapels. A canopy of wood Hands over the front •, the fteeple is of a good height, having many bells in the win¬ dows that chime tunes. Every one of the chapels is covered with a pyramidal pin¬ nacle. 1'he roofs of the win^rs or ifles of the church are fallen down, and that which remains is the nave or body, and the choir, which is much higher than the body. The key is of a great length, and is handfome ; on the wall of the fhore Hands a tower or Pbarns. The town on the other fide, is Hrengthened with the fame wall, and a deep broad trench, and fortify’d with good works without the fuburbs. With¬ out the outworks are three or four draw¬ bridges. We took notice here of two forts of fiflaes, viz. firH, the Manner , and another which fome call’d Fencb. We met with another fifh call’d Potflooeft , i. e. Scorpcetia Bellonij. April 23. In a waggon we rode over the place near the fhore where the Englijh encamp’d, and fought 1658. with the Spa¬ niards •, and after four leagues riding, on our right, faw at a diHance Vuerne , and two leagues further, palling over three Nicuport. bridges, we entred Nieuport , and then went to one of the garifon captains, who aflcing whence we came, &c. difmifs’d us. This place is well Hrengthned, and is poflefs’d by the Spaniards. The governor’s name is Don Francifco Confutes d’ Alvedo. The Hreets are well pav’d, are broad and Hrait •, the houfesare low, but uniform the market-place is a pretty fquare area ; the Hadthuis is indifferent. A tower at the market-place which hath many chiming bells in it. A handfome key by a long and fafe harbour, at the entrance whereof Hands a tower. The place is not popu¬ lous, and the inhabitants that are, main¬ tain thcmfelves by fifhing. Govern- Nine magiHrates, two burgo-maHers, meat. and one baliff, rule the affairs of the town. Five convents, viz. 1. White nuns of the Annunciata. 2. Penitents of the order of St. Francis. 3. Recollets. 4. Car- thufians. 5. The monks of St. Norbertus his order, clad in white. We view’d the church of Notre Da?ne i which hath a Hately large and high porch ■, the apoHles Hatues Hand on the pillars of the body of the church, and St. Nor¬ bertus among the reH. About the frame -of the canopy which is carry’d over the hoH is written, Eccepanis Angelorum. After dinner we traveil’d over the place where the famous battle was fought be- \_Low C. tween prince Maurice and the king of Spain's, forces •, and on the iandy hills we obferv’d a black crofs erected in Perpetuam rei memoriam : then we rode over a fandy fhore, and in the evening arriv’d at OJlend. Oftend Having paffedover three draw-bridges, we came into a neat fquare market-place, where one of our company went to the captain of the guard to be examined whence we came, having many ftatues of Donatus. the apoflles, &c. on the pillars ; the en¬ trance into the choir, is of marble. St. Jerom’s chapel, among many others, we took notice of, which was hung with gilt leather. In the middle of the choir near the altar is the monument of Louis earl of Flanders , having this infcription round the edges of the marble. Cy gift noble et puiffant Prince de bon memoire Monfeigneur Loyis Conte de Flandres, de Nevers, de R . qui trefpajfa en Tan de grace 1446. Aug. 25; Pries pour Tame, On the north fide of the choir, near the altar, is another monument, with this in¬ fcription. Gy gft tres-illufire Prince Monfeigneur Jaques de Bourbon, Chevalier et Frere de T or dr e de la Thoufon d’or, belle et adroit de Corps , fage, virtueux , va- lereux, bien ame , ct fits de feu M.... de tres-noble memoire Monfeigneur Charles Due de Bourbonnois et D y Auvergne, &c. et de Madame Agnes de Bourgogne, et Unde maternelle de tres-haut , tres-excellent, et tres-puijfant Princeffe Madame Marie par la grace de Dieu DucheJJe d* Auftrie, de Bour- gogne, de T Oftricht, de Brabant, de Luxenbourg, de Limbourg et deGe 1 - drie, Comtes de Flandres, cT Artoys, de Bourgogne, d ’ Hainault, d* Hol¬ land, de Zealand, &c. laquelle tref- paffe de ce ftecle 23 an de fon age, le 22 du May. En memoire de quelle In¬ dite madame fa Niece fift faire cefte Sepulture et fonda Tautel prochaine en Tan 1479. Pries Dieu tout-puiffant pour T ame de luy. In the corner between this lafl monu¬ ment and the altar, lies Margaret coun- tefs of Flandres •, and at the foot of Louis earl of Flanders is a white grave-ltone thus inferib’d. Sifte Viator , metce ades ad quern properas , monumentum hoc infpice ■, perilluftrem Reverendijfimum D. Dyonyfiam, hujus quondam cedis Canonicum, Scholafti- cum, Decanum , dein Sextum Brugenfi- um Epifcopum hcec Urna tegit, fed Men- tem fed Virtutem non tegit, ejfulgebii ilia in ceternum, in hac quam cere fuo ftatuit manu facravit, devovit , ftbi fu- perftes vivit in illuftriori monument0^ Civium Brugenfium in animis , paupe- rum memoria , hdc und honoris curfum non annos menfus eft , teftis ei religio> teftis ei patria , ab illo ftrenu'oprxipug- nata, fed proh dolor . in .. ar¬ ms, menfes 1 o, dies 10. Prce- fulis Virtutem mors immatura contraxit , ingemuit pietas , fed cum pugili fuo non occubuit , ultro triumphal , cceliun vifit , quid patiendo lull at a eft. Tii Sepulto bene Apprecare. Obijt Anno Domini 1639. A little below the earl of Flanders his tomb, on the north fide, is a flone, which we guefs’d was over Ludovicus Vives •, but the letters of the epitaph were fcratch’dout. Not far oft' is a grave-flone over Pe¬ trus Curtins, primus Epifcopus, and another over Drufius, fecundus Epifcopus, qui obiit 1594. Note, the bifhops of the city of Bruges are always chancellors to the King of Spain •, the prelent bifhop’s name is Heniin. Carolus Philippics de Rod.oan, Con- filiarius & Epifcopus, hath a monument in a little chapel on the north fide of the body of the church. A Prcepofitus of this church lies buried here, who was elected archbifhop of Palermo, but dy’d before he was confecrated. Arnolphust arl of Flan¬ ders founded feven of the canons places, and is buried here. In a great cloifter on the wall is this written under the virgin Mary's, pidlure, with our Saviour in her lap. O Mater Dei , Memento Mei. Nobilijfimce Auguftce Domince Gunilda: Canuti, Angliae, Danemarcisr, Nor- vegite & Sueciae Regis Filice , Impera- toris Augufti Henrici nigri laudatijftmce Conjugi, poft acceptam graviffimam d marito injuriam hoc in Caftello religiose viventi, & A. D. 1042. 12. Kal. Sep- tembris defunhlce, hoc monumentum Ecclefta (cui per quam erat munifica) erexit, quod denuo reftitutum per M. Nicolaum Helewout, Organiftam. 30 Canons, 25 Chaplains, and 12 Mu- ficians (who have each five Flemifh pounds per rnenfem) belong to this church. April n 'M* Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. Low C.] April 2 6 . We faw the bifhop of Bru¬ ges enter the choir •, he wore a purple habit faced with fcarlet •, about his fhoulder it look’d like our judges robes j there was a pot of incenfe brought to him, which he took into his hands. The fteeple is high. N.Dame. We view’d many particulars in Noftre Dame church •, on the pillars ftand the apo- ftles ftatues, and others *, the body of the church and choir have double ifles •, a good picture of our Saviour’s paflion is over the high altar ; marble pillars adorn the en¬ trance into the choir. In this church Hands the ftatue of St. Chrijlopher , of a huge bignefs. The chapel to the virgin Mary is encompafied with brafs pillars, and hers and our Saviour’s ftatue are over the altar, being valued at its weight in gold. On the north fide of the choir not far from the altar, lies a grave-ftone, with this infcription. Sir Robert Louell of Harling, in the * Mary county of Norfolke , married * Jane daughter of John Roper Baron Fen- ham , Sifter of Chriftopher Baron Fen- ham , and Aunt of John Lord Fen- ham. Maria Roper, Angla , Roberti Louell Equitis aurati Vidua , Johann is Roper Baronis de Tenham filia natu nobi- lijftma, tatnen fidei zelo Catholica quam ut libere exerceat patria id parentibus reliPlis exilium fubijt voluntarium, fol- licita femper ut de bonis bene mereretur , vixit pauper ut pauperes pafceret, reli¬ gions & locis facralis devota, iA benefi- cia Monialibus Anglis Antwerpiae ex SanPlce Terefiae familia monafterium fundavit iA redditibus ornavit, iA dum aliud crigere ad honorem San PH Bernar- di in hac civitate meditabatur , fupera- tis magnis laboribus iA impenfis varias oppofitiones A non paucas perrumpens difficult ales cum jam piam intentionem ad finem quafi fperatum promoviJfet,pla- cuit Domino Deo huic mceftiffiimce feemi- nce pro vita caduca quam piiffimc egit iA per egit aternam commutare 12 0 Novembris, AnnoDom. 1628. AEta- tis 77. Requiefcat in fanPla pace. Amen. In the middle of the choir, near the ab tar, are two ftately monuments, one thus inferib’d. Cy gift tres-haut tres-puiffiant (A magna- nime Charles Due de Burgogne, de /’Othryck, de Brabant, de Limburg, de Luxembourg, iA de Gueldres ; Conte de Flandres, d’Arthoys, Conte de Bourgogne iA Palatin de Hainnau, de Holland, de Zealand, de Namur, (A de Zutphen ; Marquis du Saint Empire , Seigneur de Frize, de Sali¬ nes iA de Malines, lequelle eftantgran- dement done de force y conftance iA mag¬ nanimity profpera longtemps en haults Enterprinfes , Rattailles (A ViPtoires tant a Mont-le-Heri en Normandie, en Ar- thois, en Liege, que aultrepart, jufques a ce que fortune lui tournant le doz I’op- preffia la nuict des Roy , 1476. dev ant Nancy, le Corps du quel depojite an dipt Nancy fut depuis par le tres-hault iA tres-viPtorieux Prince Charles, Empe- reur des Romains, Cinque de ce mm. Son petit nepueu, Herilier de Son Nom, Vic- toiresiA Seigneuries tranfporte a Bruges, ou le Roy Philippe de Caftille, Leon, Arragon, Navarre, iAc. Fils dudit Empereur Charles le fait mettre en ce tombe du cofte de fa file iA unique Re¬ ntier Marie Femme iA EfpeuCe de tres- hault iA tres-puijfant Prince Maximi¬ lian Archiduc d’ Auftrie depuis Roy iA Empereur des Romains. Pries Dieu pour fon ame. Amen. Clofe by is the other monument, with this following infcription. Cy Sepulchre de tres-illuftre Princefje Dame Marie de Bourgogne, par la grace de Dieu Archiduchejje Auftriche, Du- cheffe de Burgogne, de l’Othryck, de Brabant, de Limburg, de Luxem¬ burg iA de Gueldres •, Contejfe de Flandres, d’Arthoys, de Bourgogne, Palatine de Hainnau, de Holland, de Zealand, de Namur, de Zutphen, Marquis du Saint Empire, Dame de Frife, die Salines, iA de Malines, Femme Efpeuse de tres-illuftre Prince Monfieur Maximilian lors Archiduc ^’Auftrich iA depuis Roy des Romains, fils de Fre¬ derick Empereur de Rome i la quelle Dame trefpajfa de ce fiecle an Cage vint cinque Anns le 27 jour de Mars Can Mille qualre Cens qualre vingts iA un, iA demoura fon beritier Philippe ^’Auftrich iA de Bourgogne fon feul fils en Cage de trois ans et neuf mois, iA aujfi Margarette fa flic en Cage de quatorce mois, ct cinque ans fut Dame des fufdit pays qualre ans iA neuf mois fut en marriage vertucufnent iA en grate ameur vefeut avec Monfieur fen Marie. Regreltee, plainlee iA ploree fut de ces Subjels iA tous aulres qui fii cognoiffioient autant qui fut onques Prin- cejfe. Pries Dieu pour fon Amc. Amen. Over againft thefe monuments, on the north fide of the choir, is a gre,at tomb, with a Dutch infcription about the edges, which 367 Skipvon. A Journey thro ’ Tart of the [Low C. Skippon. which one of the chaplains writ thus in Latin. Dominus de Guelhuyfe Princeps de Brugis. In the pavement is a Hone over one Trijlram , Prcspofitus Ecdefies and in the South wall of the choir is a flately monument of one Le Toure , Prcspofitus Eccleftce. In the Sacrijlerium or veflry, we faw four veftments of cloth of gold, fet with diamonds and other precious Hones of a very great value ; three keys to them are kept by three perfons, one by the provoH, another by the aedituus, and the third by the chapter i they are only worn at Eajler j they were given by Charles V. or fome of that family about his time. jefuits . The Jefuits chapel is a fair high build¬ ing, the front very noble, and over the entrance is written D.O.M. id S.P. Frandfco Xaverio Sacrum. Seven fair arches within the chapel, which is pleafantly lightfome •, there are good pictures, and the confefiing feats are of handfome wood-work. In the middle of the chapel Hood a table, having a piece of Xaverius his hand expos’d in a rich. and many filver candleHicks about it •, a great deal of marble and filver was about the altar, and two very high brafs candle¬ Hicks, and over the altar were reprefented foldiers converted by Xaverius , and angels in the clouds. The pavement of this cha¬ pel is finely variegated with crofles after this manner. In a cloifter of this city is a monument of Maximilian arch-duke, which is fhewn but once in a year *, his head and other bones are preferved, by which fome judge his heighth was ten foot. The oc- cafion of his death is thus reported: In a dearth, the monks of that convent hoard¬ ed up corn, which the arch-duke under- flanding, he commanded it to be fold at reafonable rates to the poor •, whereupon the monks revenged themfel ves by murder¬ ing their prince, to whom the king of France was related ; and he fo profecuted them, that he caufed them all to be hang’d, and that monument to be eredted to the arch-duke’s memory. At St. Servator’s church we heard a Ca¬ puchin preach, who threw ofl' his mantle when he began to be hot with tolling his body to and fro, and fpeaking huge ear- neHly j towards the latter end of the fer- mon, he defired fomething might be gi¬ ven to the poor, and for the reparations of the church ; a crucifix was placed on one fide of the pulpit, as our miniHers have hour-glafles •, in fermon-time the men put on their hats. We were inform’d the parifh-churches of this city are but feven ; the number of the convents we could not learn ; Gol- nitz in his Itinerary fays there are about 60, among which are two Englifh nunneries, F[ one of the AugUfHne order, and the other jnf ns . of the order of St. Clare , being Francif- cans. There are three abbies, one of St. Ber¬ nard, the fecond of St. Bartholomew , the third of. That of St. Bernard is a handfome build- The abbey ing, having a very fair and high cloifler, °f St - Bct ' well glafed and paved; it is adorn’d nlld ’ with many pidtures, among which we ob- ferv’d thefe with their inferiptions, viz. R>. D. Helias fextus Abbas Dunen* Rcgi Angliae d confiliis , quern a cap- tivitate Duels A u Arise liberaverat. B. Alexander Convefius princeps Sco- tiae. B. Eugen 9 Pont. Rom. B. Conradus Cardinolis. B. Robertus Anglicus Abbas. B. Thomas Archiep. Cantuarise. The chapter-houfe is fquare place, fup- ported by four pillars *, a little thatch’d chapel is built into the area where the ab¬ bots are buried. Every monk hath a little garden ; we were in one of their cells one ltory high, and in their library, a fpacious room furnifhed with few books; the MSS. are kept by themfelves, where only the monks are admitted : We went up another pair of Hairs among more cells, convents for the mofl part having all the cells in one floor. The Calefadorium , or Stove, is a long, fquare, and great room. The Re- fedorium or dining-hall is a fair place: the monks fit all on one fide, with their faces to the middle of the room, and ferve one another by turns •, a chapter is read at meals,and the difhes of meat are given thro* fuch a box as the nuns ufe to put their work which Hrangers buy of them. Under the cloifler is a fair arched vault full of provi- fions ; this abbey was founded about 20 years ago, and hath 36 fathers or monks, and 14 lay brethren or fervants belonging to it. The other abbey of St. Bartholomew af¬ forded us nothing remarkable, befides an altar fin the Refedorium or Calefadorium) of fhells, curioufly made j on the wall hangs this infeription. JubUeum Loro. Cl Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 369 Jubileum Decimi Seculi Primes fundationis Brugenfis Abbatiee Be Eeckhoute Fables per S. Trudonem, Anno 650. Celebratum ip jo feilo ejujdem S. Trudonis, 23 Novembris, 1650. In the cloifter is the prophecy of Lu- bert Hanfchilt, abbot, which is printed in a fheet of paper •, and to be fold here. Channels of water run through many of the ftreets, which channels have their fides well brick’d up. The brafs ftatues of St. John, St. Nicholas, St. George , &c. give names to the bridges they ftand on. The comedians chamber is a good building. The Bifcayers have a houfe in this city. Nigh the cathedral is the bifhop’s palace ; Pala- tium la Franche and the Stadthuys are both well adorn’d on the outfide with ftatues of princes, &c. The Stadthuys hath a very ltately high tower •, the prifon and the fencing hall, a very long and large build¬ ing is near the market-place, which is fpa- cious •, there is a large bcaft-market. The cloifters about the town hall are ufed by merchants to walk in •, a pair of ftone- ftairs lead up into walks like thofe in our Royal-Exchange, tho’ not fo hand- fome, and the fhops are but meanly fur- Mons pie- nifhed ; Mons pietatis is written on the tans. gate Q f a houfe, where things pawn’d are kept, and which are forfeited, if they be not redeem’d within a year and fix weeks, and the overplus the things are fold for is given to the owners. Here we firftob- ferv’d the Low-Country cuftom of tying a linnen cloth about the knockers of doors, which fignifies that a woman in the houfe lies in •, if a malefactor flees into fuch a houfe, he is in a fafe afylum. This city hath nine gates and many bridges; it is fenced with a thick earth¬ work, and a hedge grows round the bot¬ tom of it; two trenches befides and bul¬ warks •, on the mounts of the works are windmills with fails, that have their beams on one fide. In one mill we faw them with damps beat fheeplkins in oil and make parchment i of calf-fkins they make vellom. The Spanijh foldiers beg with their fwords by their fides, in the churches and ftreets •, they have their lodgings in build" ings like our alms-houfes. Nigh the city wall, we faw a pleafant water-work ; in a yard flood Neptune and other figures, and on a fudden the fpeCla- tors were catch’d, and fprinkled with wa¬ ter, which is forc’d up little pipes, and through the pavement, and the water Vol. VI. fhap’d in fome places into ftars, (Pc. The Skipfon. ftars are made by a circular piece of brafs, with a round and narrow hollow, thorough which the water forces a pafiage *, a is the circular piece of brafs made hol¬ low, and b is the pipe that is fitted to the water-pipe. We law a brafs ball play a great while upon a ftream of water. A water-houfe here. The high and the low burgo-mafter, covem- the high and the low bailiff 7 , and 14 ma- went. giftrates, govern this city. Vandyke here fir ft invented laying co¬ lours in oil. Our beds were like little cabbins, with little coverlets. Some of the women wear a black tuft on their forehead, which they call Een-hoet. The porters themfelves draw little carts like horfes with things of burden and weight. April 27. About one in the afternoon, we took our places in the pafiage boat for Ghent, and we paflfed in a channel be¬ tween high banks ; about the middle of the way, a gathering was made for the fol¬ diers, and afterwards another for the poor, and the maintaining of the channel. We went under three or four draw-bridges, and at night came to Gant ; having tra- Gant, veil’d from Bruges iix leagues. April 28. We went to the cathedral, Cathedral. dedicated to St. The pillars of it, have the apoftles ftatues ; here are two organs, one of them very fair •, many rich chapels of marble about the body of the church and the choir ; the bifhop’s chapel is behind the choir. In one of the chapels is the monument of Vigilius F tus - The prefent bifhop’s name is Charles Vanden Bofch. At the entrance into the choir, on the right hand is the effigies of our Savi¬ our, and two laying him in his grave, with this infeription overhead. Priginta Venditum denarijs Gccifum vides Caufam reqttiris ? ediffer0 Peccata funt Commiffor redemptionem queerers Dietim Per denis hie panibus Voluit Et hoc miffs facrif.cio Rccreari Ut t'u qui me intueris hniteris. S B Underneath A Journey thro ’ Tart of the [Low C. 37 ° SKirroK. Underneath the cathedral is a church where the laft bifhopof Ghent lies buried, and D. Atgidius du Faing, who had been lent 23 embafiies. An old tomb there of VrawMargarets van Gbiftele, Vrawe van Kalkedre, Vachdele van Wichlene , &c. yaer XCIIIF en XXXI den eerfte dacb van Aufi. Englifli We vifited the Englijb nuns of the Be- mns ' nedidiine order, and, thro’ a grate in their parlour, freely difcourfed with Madame Fortefcue the priorefs, and with Madame Minjhul , who gave us a printed paper of her being miraculoufly cur’d of lamenefs, (Ac. by ufing fome of the oyl in a lamp that hangs before the altar of our lady of Succour’ s chapel in Brujfels: fhe was cur’d 26th of Augujl , 1660. Madame Man- nock f who has a filler in the nunnery at Dunkirk ) and Madame Monfon , and Ma¬ dame Wakeman (who has a brother in the college at Rome) were of the company we faw. Madame Knatcbbull , Sir Norton Knatcbbull’s filler, is the abbefs. There are 33 dames of the choir, and 16 lay- fillers, who help as fervants in ordinary occafions that belong to this convent. They fay their devotions feven times in a day. They fay their matins over-night at 9 of the clock. In the morning they rife at 5, and work before dinner an hour and an half, without fpeaking a word, except the priorefs gives them leave. An hour after dinner, the time we were entertained by them, and an hour after fupper, is allotted them for recreation. In the afternoon they work an hour and an half, and they go to fup¬ per at 5 of the clock, and to bed at 10. They teach young gentlewomen to fing, (Ac. \vho are at liberty to return home when they pleafe. We faw fome of their work, which was an imitation of flowers and greens in a pot. They have a fair building, and a large garden. In N. Dame church-yard lies a great heap of llculls. The abbey The abbey of St. Benedidi hath a fair cf st. Be- glafed cloifter. Here is kept a fair re- uedl- neft, and this is inferib’d. Memoriae ferenijfimi P rind pis Ernefli Archiducis Auftriae, Maximili¬ an i II. IMP. F.ex Maria Carol i V.Imp. F. P'erdinandi Nep. Maxim. I. Abn. Rudolphi II. fratris , Qui cum regnum Hungariae Cf fnitima loca per Annos KYll for titer felicit erque adminijlrajfet , ad Belgii gubernacula a Philippo II. Rege Avunculo vocatus eafdem provin¬ cial etfi brevi XIII menfium fpatio cum ceterna fua laude & gratia rexit , in avita religione , in pace , in imperio reducendo intentus , in iifque curis mor- tuus Anno cd.id.xcv.x. Kal. Mar¬ ti i cum vixijfet annos xli. menfes vm. dies v. pofuit Albertus Archidux Au- ftrine, Belgii princeps fingulari in fratrem ajfecfu , ejufque corpus ex ad- verfo in tumulo Ducum Brabantiae reliquit , monumentum hie voluit extare. Near the altar are buried Albert and Ifabella , without either monument or in- lcription. [Lew C. Over the feats of the choir are the arms of the knights of the Golden-Fleece painted ; among the reft one of our Englijh kings, and this inferib’d ; ' Fres-haut , tres-excellent , et tres-puiffant Prince Henry Roy J’Angleterre, Seigneur d’hhndz trefpaffe . And under all the coats of arms, thefc following words written. Beneficio Archiiucum Alberti ac Ifabellac Ducum Brabantiae, Duds Arfchota, lAc. Duds Brunfwic. March a Bergis, March de Lullin, Conte de Beaurjeu, Com. de Bafiigny, Prcef Richardot, Cance. Damant, Conf DafTonvil, Conf. Salinas, Prcef Va- netten, Coron. Standly, Audient Ver- rey, Proto de Lalae, Magif. Bruxel. Fabricce D. Gud. P. D. PDM. FA. M. P. Anno 1610. On the fouth fide. Liberalitate Archiducum Albert. C? Ifab. Ducum Brabantiae, Ducts Aumaliae, Principis , March. D. Havre, Com. Fonteno, Dominus de Baraffor, De¬ cani Pantini Cantoris, de Mol. Ca- pli. de Gudula, Baron de Taflis, Ba¬ ron de Bornhem. Magift. Bruxel. Fa- brica D. Gud. P. D. P. D. M. FA. M. P. Anno 1610. There are 23 feats on each fide of the choir, and in the middle hangs a great brafs candleftick ihap’d like a triple crown. Our Saviour giving St. Peter authority to feed the fheep, is efleem’d a rare pifture. On the pillars of the north ifle of the choir, hang three frames with a relation of the Jews ftabbing the hoft written in Dutch , French , and La¬ tin j the laft is thus. Stupendum fupra omnia Miraculum! Miraculum perpetuum! Fres Hof ice faerce. Anno Chrifi MCCC FXX. Ab impiis Judaeis facrilege furreptce y Et pugionibus (proh nefas!) confojfce , Sanguinem ejfuderunt ; Nec latuit abominandum fcelus De Judaeis igne fupplidumfumptum Sacrce Hof ice In D. Gudulae Aide principe Populorum venerationi expofitce, Et prodigiofs in jnortales benefeiis inclyta y Mortuis Vitam , Cads Vifuniy Claudis A Journey thro' Part of the Low C .J Low-Countries, Germany, Italy } and France. 375 Claudis grejjum, Allis alia fubjidia conlulere , Atque etiamnum fuperfunt Tarn Veter am plagarum Veftigiis , Cuam illcejis pojl tot lujlra fpecierum formis y admiranda Bruxellre adorantur m.uc. xxxx. SS. Eucharijlice Otho Zylius e Soc. Jefu D. N. M. V, E. P. Once a year there is a folernn pro- ceffion, when thefe hods are carry’d about, and perfons oh the bed quality will follow barefoot. The fenfe of the relation in French , is, “ That Anno 1369. about St. Reme's “ day, the Jews that liv’d in Brujfels en- “ tred by night into the chapel of St. “ Catherine a Molenbegue y [near the faid “ town, and then dole fix hods, one of “ which was very great: the Jews keptSKippon. “ them till Good-Friday , and on that day s/'Vv-* “ they dabb’d them, and immediately “ blood appeared ; which amazed them “ fo, that they immediately fent for one “ Catherine who was a converted Jew, “ and hired her to carry the hods back : “ but Ihe difcovered it to a pried, and “ he to two more, and they three with “ Catherine brought the hods into the “ church. At lad it was publickly “ known, and the Jews were appre- “ hended, put to the rack, and burnt “ alive. Three of the bigged hods are “ kept in this church, and the other “ three in the church they were dollen “ out of.” See the printed hidory in French. There are 41 done deps up to the entrance at the wed end of the church. Five gilds in this city. On a fair houfe where two of their halls are, is written this chronogram. A pejle , faMe & beLLO Libera nos Marta pads hIC VotVM paCIs pVbLICce eLIfabet ConfeCraVIt. 1625. Englifli In this city are many convents; one nuns. of Englijh nuns of St. Bruno's order, and other nuns called by fome the galloping nuns, becaufe in afternoons they have liberty to go abroad. At this time there was here a Mmnum y a famous preacher, who had a licence to preach before he was 20 years old. Bcguins. There are about 500 Beguins that live together in one place, fix in a building, who wear a flat black draw-hat, and a black plaited mantle called a hyick. Quefels. The Ffuefels are maids who vow virgi¬ nity for what time they pleafe. They wear great hoets on their foreheads, made of ferge. Married women and maids that have not made any fuels vow, may wear velvet hoets. Dogs of a madid" kind draw little wheelbarrow carts with confiderable bur¬ thens, a porter holding up the end be¬ hind. Thefe dogs are frequently thus ufed, and underdand when to dop and turn as carters lsorfes do, and will drive to outgo other dogs that are drawing the fame way. Brujfels is a populous city, much fre¬ quented by the nobility and others that attend the governor's court. The build¬ ings are very fair, and the dreets broad. That fide of the city the palace is on, is on a hill. We obferved here waggons with crofs chains that hang near the ground, fo that when they are filled with wood, &c. they hang down with a long and low belly. A Brabant ell is equal to 27 inches, Meafures. and alnsod half an inch. May 2. We travelled four leagues by waggon, and early in the afternoon ar¬ rived at Louvaine y where, affoon as we Louvainc. alighted, women-porters drove who fhould carry our luggage to the inn. This was the fird place we obferved dorks in. The government of this city is in the r /4 Ho¬ llands of a mayor, two confuls, feven 'vtrnment. fcabini, and eight counfellors. The mayor is for life, chofen by the king ; the red eledted after this manner. The town is divided into eight com¬ panies ; each of which by fuffrage chufes one deputy, and the eight deputies eledt a nobleman, conful, who takes, by his own choice, an aflidant out of the num¬ ber of the deputies •, then the deputies prefent to the king 21 names, part of the gentry, and part of the commonalty, and out of thefe the king chufes four of the gentry, and three of the other, which are the feven fcabini. The deputies all'o eledt the eight counfellors, who are half gentry, and half plebeians. May 3. Being kVhitjunday , Stilo Novj, st. Peter 's we afeended many deps, and entred St. Peter's church, where a fcafi'old was ere- dted before the choir, and an altar on it, over which the effigies of four apodles beholding the afeenfion of Chrid in the cloud), capuchins performing mafs. We faw here a proceffion ; fird a banner was A p roce p. carried with two candles borne by two /on. boys A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Low C, s kippok. boys 'Who had red gowns, and furplices v ^V^ w 'over them, and little black hoods hang¬ ing by firings to the middle of their backs, their heads much fhaven ; then went fing- ing-men with their heads fhaven •, after them canons with rich copes •, fome canons went before them, having only their long furrs on their arms* as we had feen them in other places in the midfl of the canons, two finging-boys in copes; after the ca¬ nons, eight beadles, with maces, in gowns that reach’d not much further than their knees; and many other fervants, in the fame habit, came before the rector of the univerfity, whofe habit was a black gown, with a high collar which was rais’d almofl as high as his head •, over his fnoulder hung a purple hood lined with a white furr on the edges; a prieft’s cap of a purple colour, which fome of the canons alfo had : after him follow’d the mayor’s fervants, and then the mayor, behind whom came three or four halberteers, and one with a long black rod. In the choir is a monument with a marble flatue on it, and this infcrib’d. Anno Dni. 1235. Nonis Sept, obiit Hen- ricus 4 tus Dux Lotharingiae, bones & pies memories. On the edges is written. Hie fepulttis jacet Henricus Dux Lotha- ringise 4 tus, cui conjux bina .... mi%erft The univerfity hath 43 Collegia and Peedagogia , which with the founders names are printed in a catalogue. The feveral faculties are diflinguilhed by different, habits, caps, &c, The divinity fludents have high fquare caps, each corner whereof is pinch’d into a high peek, and their gowns are fhap’d like the rector’s. Other fludents, except at their exercifes, wear none. There are four Pesdagogia of the afore- faid number, in which only philofophy is taught by two profeffors, call’d Primarius and Secundarius the Primarius reads in the morning, from half an hour after fix in the morning to half an hour after feven, then the fcholars are at mafs till eight *, and when that is done, they go to their pri¬ vate fludies till 10, and then that pro- feffor reads again till half an hour after 11. The Secundarius reads from half an hour after one in the afternoon till half an hour after two •, he begins again at four, and reads till half an hour after five. The Primarius hath fix guilders a quar¬ ter of every gentleman, and the Secundarius hath two patacoons a quarter of every gentleman •, thofe of an inferior rank pay but half fo much. All the fludents write after the pro¬ feffors, whofe readings are divided into Diftata, which are thefes or propofitions i and Annotata , which are folutions of ob¬ jections. When they are admitted, the firil thing required is matriculation, and to fwear their belief in all the docirines of the Roman church. No fludents are allow’d to wear fvvords j they are preferred out of the four Pesda- gogies after this manner. The profeffors chufe 12 out of each who are of two years Handing; and thefe 48 are publickly ex¬ amined, and about 12 of them are chofen and have burfes given them ; burfes fignify their diet, chamber, and a greater or lefler flipend, as the burfes are, and it is counted very credicable to be chofen into one of them; he that is firfl elected hath a bell rung for him in his college 48 hours to¬ gether ; when they are thus chofen they may go into what college they pleafe, and fludy what they pleafe ; thefe are ufual- ly preferred to be profeffors,canons, £s?r. Young fludents give their names to the prefident of their college or Pcsdagogie , and for every time they are abfent from lectures they pay a fliver ; for every time they mifs a publick exercife in law or phy- fick, they pay three flivers, and if they be to exercife themfelves, 20 flivers. The degrees are Bachelour called DoftiJJi- rnus Dominus. Licentiate , in phyfick call’d Peritijfimus in law ConfultiJJimus j in divi¬ nity, Eximius. Doctors in medicine and law, are called Clarijfmi •, in divinity, Eximius Dominus , or Magifter nofter. After two years flanding in divinity, they may be Baccalaurei currentes , after another year, Baccalaurei format'll and feven years after this they may be Licentiati. They are fel- dom doctors of divinity till 50 years of age, unlefs very eminent and deferving. Barons are intitled Illuflres *, earls, ///«- ft riff mi. The famous men at this prefent in the univerfity of Louvain , are. Gutifthovius Med. & Matth. Prof. Vo fife us Fortunatus Plempius , Med. Prof. Primarius , call’d Fortunatus becaufe he was fo happy as to be cut out of his mother’s womb. Dorlix , Med. D. Sinnichius Tbeol. D. an Iriihman, who has written feveral books, viz. Saul Ex rex 3 tom. Pauper Auguftinus. Go- liatbiftnus. This Sinnick (they fayj converted one While to the popifh re¬ ligion, who was one of the king of England's chaplains, and is now a Romijb priefl. Petit anus Low C. j Low Countries. Germany, Italy, and France. 377 Pont anus , Theol. D. dean of St. Peter's , and Cenfor librorum. Van Verve , Vheol. P. Primarius. Bradhy , ju can. D. an Irifhman. Loyens , -D. Gulinx was profeffor of philofophy here, but he is now turned proteftant, and lives at Leyden. Leon a carmelite friar is the mofl emi¬ nent preacher in this place. There is great jollity at the taking of the licentiate’s degree *, an invitation is made to a treatment for all the doctors and op¬ ponents ; to whom gloves are given. The graduate prints his thefes , and ufually adds a jocular queftion, which they call an im- pertinens ; and he is attended from the fchools, with drums, trumpets, &c. At his lodging a bell is hung up which is rung for a day, and a night. The gra¬ duate, if he has none before, may chufe a coat of arms, for his degree makes him a gentleman. ■*' Mr. Fortefcue , Mr. Plompton , Mr. Con- Jlable, Mr. Short , and Mr. Brian an Irifh¬ man, being ftudents here, civilly fhewed us many remarkables. Thefchools. At the fchools, we faw the divinity fchool, a room full of long feats in the middle •, and went into the anatomy thea¬ tre, a mean place; the law and philofophy fchools are like the divinity. In the fame building is the Curia Academic a , where the redtor and the fenate (which confifts of all the doctors and the moft prudent licentiatesj meet about univerfity affairs. The re£torfits at the upper end in a chair, and the reft fit on benches on each fide. The picture and arms of the prefent pope Alexander VII. here. And fome other pidlures. The archives are kept in this place under feveral locks. The fchools are one pile of building, called the halls, becaufe formerly the clothiers hall. Under fome of thefchools are butchers fhambles. At the exercifes a profeffor is ufual prefent, who either fits in his feat at the upper end, or walks up and down while he moderates. The colleges are but indifferent •, Colle¬ gium Vandale is the belt. Collegium T rin. is a new ftrudture with a very fair front, intended for philologers. Collegium Pontificium was built by pope Adrian the fixth, who, they fay, when he was a ftudent here, threw up his cap, and promifed to build a college as high as his cap flew, if ever he fhould arrive at the popedom. The caftle. We walk’d up to the caftle, which is feated on a hill, whence we had a profpedt of the city *, in the houfe lives one of fa¬ mous Puteanus his fons. In a large hall Vol. VI. here, they adc plays, two or three times Skip pox. in a year ; before the entrance into it, is ^ a deep well cover’d with a little houfe, from the bottom of the well the voice plainly refle&ed. Great garden places about the caftle and houfe. Befides St. Peter's there are four parifh churches, viz. i. St. James's , 2. St. Ger¬ trude , 3. ffuintin ; In this we faw two Jeluits about the middle of the church ca¬ techizing children ; 4. St. Michael , which is over one of the city-gates. The Jefuits have now almoft finifhed their ftately chapel. We vifited the Englijh nuns of the Au- Englifh guftine order, and difcourfed with the lady runs. priorefs ; the curtain being drawn open, v/e faw their habit, which is linnen uppcrmoft, and woollen next their fkin. They rife to their devotions at midnight, and have fervice five times a day. We heard here a fermon made by father Johnjlon , in Eng- lijh , who fat in a chair with his back againft the altar •, he had a rich cope on *, and once he took the hoft and fhew’d it to the auditors. The Englijh gentlemen aforenam’d, lodge and diet at this nunnery* In the chapel is a graveftone, with this infcription. Hie fepultus ejl Thomas Southwell Anglus Armiger Pronepos R. P. Rob. Southwell in Anglia Martyris. Nuper fall us Dominus de Morton fuper montem in cornitatu Norfolcim, qui ex hcsretico falius Catholicus , fponte Exulavit , pie vixit , Lovanij obijt 28. April. 1659. JEtati-s 42* Requiefcat in pace. Another ftone over a little lad, Nico¬ laus Griffin de M. . Warwicenfi. At Louvain is a cloifter of Irifh Fran¬ ciscans. At an apothecary’s garden we faw rare plants. Louvain is bigger than Gand by three rood, and is encompaffed with two brick walls ; having much void ground. The ftreets are not handfomely built, and are dirtily kept. The people that fetch wa¬ ter from the wells in the ftreets, brino- their own buckets with them, and let down on pul lies that are faftned to the fides of the well. About half a mile from Louvain is the Dide of duke of Croy's palace before we came Al . lcho to it we had the pleafure of a broad, f . ftrait and level way let with trees on each fide, and in the corn fields found grow¬ ing Alfine myofotis Jecunda vel tertia Bauh. and Alfine Veronica facie fol. diffefto. We ' 5 D " firft 278 A journey thro Skippon. firft went into the Celeftines convent, and in their church obferv’d round the feats of Mines' the choir, the duke of Arfchot's genealogy church, from Adam , to the laft duke: At the be¬ ginning area great many defcents, in trees that branch out with the names of the family. Afterwards every feat hath the picture of one of the family over it; in the firft tree is the pedigree from Adam to Cujh ; in the fecond are 30 names, the two uppermoft are Hemor and Boras, the two lowermoft names are Etheus and Stemines. In the third tree are 20 names, the pedi¬ gree is then continued through feveral kings of Hungary , to Johannes Marnij, Filius Baro de Croy & Arams, & An- thoine , a great favourite of Philip duke of Burgundy. The arms of the houfe of Arfchot are, argent, three bars, gules, quar¬ tered with another coat that bears argent, three hatchets gules ; thus. 1 -~1 *xi lx i -1 In the middle of the choir, is a ftately monument with four little ftatues on the north fide, and four on the fouth fide ; and over every one of thefe is a book open¬ ed ; in the firft of the north fide, on the left page, is written Croy : on the right page, Crocon. In the next book, Lor¬ raine and Harquourt ; in the third book, Lufenbourgh and Lejbans ; in the fourth. Bar and France. In the four books of the fouth fide, 1. Cowarern, and Hamalle. 2. Lrefegmes , and La Laing. 3. Merode, and Pietrefem. 4. Wefemale , and Rotre- fem. Charles duke of Croyeretted many monu¬ ments to feveral of his family, about the vears 1605. and 1606. In the fouth ifle of the church, we took notice of thefe, viz. 1. Dame Helenne de Croy troifiefme. 1606. 2. Dame Jaqueline. 1605. 3. Dams Charlotte AbbeJJe de Guiflin- ghen au pays de Hainau. 1604. 4. Charles^ Croy, Evefq\de Tournay, mourut 2. Decemb. 1564. 5. Robert de Croy, Evejque G? Due de Cambray, Prince du St. Empire, mou¬ rut 1556. 6. Prince Cardinal, Archevefque de To¬ ledo, Primat i’Efpagne, Chancelier de Caftile, G?r. mourut a Worms. 6. Jan. 1521. This prince’s effigie lies on a fair mo¬ nument. Fart of the {JLovj C* 7. Anthoine de Croy, premier prince de Portien, G? dame Catherin de Cleves, 2de fille du due de Nevers, G fc. fils unique du Charles compte de Portien, mourut fans laiffergeneration. 1567. 8. Charles de Croy, comte de Senefchem, G? depuis de Portien, G fc. There are many others which we were in too much hafte to take a particular ac¬ count of. In the fame ifle is a fair tomb with three neat ftatues kneeling to a cru¬ cifix : at one end of it is an infeription. .... Prince Philipes fire de Croy, due de Arfchot, prince du St. Empire, de Chimay G? Portient, conte de Beau¬ mont. . . . chevalier de Vordre, du confeil d’eft at, captaine d’bommes d’armes, G? la princejfe Jenne datne heretier des maifons de Hellewin, G? princejfe Comine, conteffe G? dame de Dis Lieux, premir Feme G? dame .... Another fair monument with feveral ftatues, and this French epitaph. Cygiftent Ph’les fire de Croy, due d’ Ar¬ fchot, prince de Cimay, Marquis de Renti, comte de Portient, Beaumont, Senighem, S' . d’Avefnede Cieures, Haurech, Libers, Quieuraing, G fc. Confeillier d* Eft at, Cha’ bellain Lieutn. Capne. G’nal. Grand Baillii de Hain. premier chef des Finances, Chlr. de la Thoifon dor’e , Sable ’ Dame Anne de Croy, duchejfe d’ Arfchot, G fc. fon Efpeufe, avecque Charles de Croy leur fils aifine. The roofs of the ifies are painted well. In the north ifle is this epitaph on a tomb. Carolus d Croy, nuper dux Croy G? Arfchotti, ex magna progenie natus , nunc putredo terre , G? cibus verrnicu- lorum, obiit in Domino expert an s refur- redlionem mortuorum, anno MDCXII. About the walls of this ifle are pictured all the founders of religious orders in their habits. We entred a fair glafed cloifter, and faw a pleafant garden, delightful walks, and a large fifh-pond. Twenty-four monks belong to this place : their habit is black. One of them fliewed us in their veftry one of the pieces of filver our Saviour was fold for. It was preferv’d like an hoft in a pyxis, being fet in a wrought and gilt piece of plate; about the Numifima was a cryftal: on one fide of the money was written poaion, and a flower Low C.] flower imprefs’d; head. May 5. Not finding Monfieur de Bils at Louvaine , as we had been informed, we hir’d a waggon to carry us back again to Broflels. BruJJels, purpofely to vifit him ; and in DeBils his the afternoon we found out his lodgings embalmed there, and faw his five human bodies con- bodies. ferved by fpices v three were men, and two women. Thofe that are longefl done look belt, the others being of a blacker colour, which in time, he faid, would be of the fame colour with thofe that look bell. The hair of the head, beard, teeth, all the vifcera, arteries, veins, nerves, mufcles, brain, utera’s, clitoris, penis, &c. arepre- ferved here in their natural fituation. De Bils told us. That the univerfity of Lou¬ vaine hath agreed with him to be a lectu¬ rer for 200 l. per annum for him and his fon. He underftands not Latin , but rnuft read in Dutch or French , and Gutfchovius is to interpret them into Latin. The fecret of his art is feal’d and lock’d up in the Archivi, and de Bils is fworn to reveal his art to none but Gutfchovius , and he is alfo obliged by oath to difcover it to no per- fon. The receipt of the embalming pow- powder he valued at 6000 /. This day we hired places in a waggon, and rode pleafant way (above a mile) with trees fet in order on each fide ; then came over a bridge, and travelled by the river- fide, pafling by Vilvorden caftle, and went thro’ the town, a mean place, yet well fortify’d with a thick earth-work, and a deep trench. At night we lodg’d in Machlin. Machlin y four leagues from Brujfels. The Rum great church here is a fair building, having bold-, a fteeplc very high and curioufly carved, ibitrch. the top whereof is not yet finifhed. In the N. ifle of the choir we read part of a Dutch infcription on a tomb, viz. Dit is de fepulture muineheren hr. Vrawx van halen here was van Lilloe die Jlarf hit jaer m'ccc. lxxv. ix. dach 7 oeqxt an. Marien de Dochter van heren van Giftele. Over the holt on the high altar is Writ¬ ten, Tantum ergo Sacramentum Veneremur cernui. In a little chapel hang the pictures of St Carolus Borromceus , and St. Francis. On the left fide of the altar the prefent bifhop Andreas Cruzius Maftrichtenfis ('who is alfo bifhop of Louvaine and Bruf- fels ) hath ereCted a fair monument for him- felf: his effigies is kneeling to a ftatue of our Saviour not yet finifhed. At one of the altars in the body of the church, is a rare carv’d altar-piece. In a little chapel is the Lord’s Supper a picture drawn by Rubens. Apoftles ftatues hand on the pillars of the church. We faw a great iron cheft, Skippon. and within that a filver cheft (it ftands over the entrance into the choir) curioufly wrought, wherein is kept the body of St. Rumbold (to whom this cathedral is dedi¬ cated) fon of an Irifh king. When the bones are taken out (which is but feldom ) it is the bifhop mult handle them. Over the bifhop’s feat is written, Ant. Perrenot. Eps. Sabin * S. R. E. Card’lis Granvellanus Archiepifcopus Machl. ac Bilunt. Ph. II. Indiarum Hifpaniarumq; &c. Regis aufpiciis regni Neapol. prorex , ac penes eundem fummi concilii flatus fenator primarius , rerumqy Italicarum praefetl. hit jus ec- clefiae memor mille aureos legavit. Franc. Perennot. de Granvella, comes de Cantecroy ex Thoma fre* nepos , ac Execut ’ teftamenti voluntatem de- fundii explentes arbitratu eorum apud quos fedis Vacantis adminiftratio erat , legatum hoc in hac Chori St alia piae memoriae impenderunt Anno Domini CID ID XCIIII. The arms of the golden-fleece knignts are round about the feats in the choir, as at Brujfels. Machlin is neatly built, and the ftreets very well paved. On the pavement of the piazza, before the ftadthoufe, is written, Carolo V. Caef. Semp. Aug. The prifon is a handfome ftruCture. Under a picture of the virgin Mary in the ftreets, is written, Praetereundo cave , ne flleatur Ave. Many tanners live together, and inha bit two or three ftreets of this city •, and near them live a great many heel-makers. May 6. After dinner, in three hours time, we fail’d in the paflage-boat by Rupelmonde caftle, on the left hand, and two other fortify’d works, and eight leagues from Machlin arriv’d at Antwerp. Antwerp. We went to the jefuits college, a very y e r Hlt5 fair ftone-building, when two Engliflj je- college. fuits, nam’d Worfly and Stanly , brought us into the library, confifting of four fe- veral rooms, which have galleries towards the top : in the firft room are the councils, fathers, commentators, &V. in the fecond, claffick-authors, hiftorians profane and facred, civil and canon lawyers, mathe¬ maticians and phyficians: in the third, books on all fubjeCts, made by fathers of this order: in the fourth are Italian , French , Spanijb, and Dutch books: and in a gallery behind thefe, are plac’d books whofe authors are Calvinifts , Lutherans , and all other heretical books, as Cartefius, Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 379 on the other fide a man’s o A Journey thro On one fide of the outward area are two chapels, one above the other, only for private devotions. The infide of their walls are fac’d with marble. Several tables hang here with the names of all that belong to that fociety or college; when any travels abroad, they pull out his name. Oppofite to thefe is the great and publick chapel, a ftately ftruCture, the front whereof is very beautiful *, the pillars within are marble *, two little cha¬ pels, one on each fide : on the fouth is our lady’s chapel, the walls of which are all marble ; in one of the ftones is a flower moll curioufly inlaid ; a rich altar here, and rare pictures, fome drawn on the marble. The S. chapel is dedicated to Ignatius ; a gallery over each ifle of the chapel, and two chapels at the upper end. On the roofs of the ifles are many excel¬ lent pictures drawn by Rubens . Every quarter of the year they change the pic¬ ture over the high altar. The pavement is variegated black and white into erodes, as at Bruges. In a little room they open’d three or four prefies, and fhew’d us the filver heads of S .Sufanna, and other faints, fet on rich cabinets, their bones being here preferved. Wefaw alfo here a piece of the crofs, a piece of the fpur.ge, and two or three of the thorns in our Saviour’s crown, all fix’d within cryftals, and richly adorn’d with jewels. In this place queen Chriflina us’d to hear mafs at a window looking into the chapel. We came into the Sacrijlia, and law many rich embroidered altar-cloths, one of Englifh work; in the veftry, a neatly pav’d, and handfomely wrought roof’d place. We faw a great quantity of plate, and in one of the drawers, a great many handkerchiefs to cover the chalice. We defcended into fome vaults, where, in the flde-walls, are empty fpaces propor¬ tioned to the fize of a coffin, which are morter’d up ; fome of them have brafs plates infcrib’d with the names, &c. of thofe buried. Here is a little chapel- vault where one Houtappel and others of his family are buried. This perfon left to this college 400,000 /. At this altar, two or three times in a year, mafies are faid for their fouls. They were great benefaCtors, having built the chapel, idc. The jefuits expert much at the death of one of his daughters. In their Officina pharmaceutica we obferved curious fhells, and artificial imitations of nature, a death’s head made very exaCtly of marble, two eyes, idc. feveral animals hung up, two great filk-cods made by Indian worms, an Indian idol with a radiat head, a long Indian dart, a fair, large, and true con¬ cave fpeculum . In the garden were many Vart oj the [Low C good flowers and plants. In this college is a lay-brother that draws fruits and flow¬ ers excellently well. Plantin ’s printing-houfe is a very neat Officina place. Within the court, over the gate, Pi,inUn '' &c. are the ftone effigies of Johannes Mo- retus , and under him is written, raiione reda ; Balthafar Moretus 1642. Johannes Moretus IF. I. Lipfms, moribus antiquis Chri- Jiophorus Plantinus , Lahore id Conjlantia. This laft is over the entrance into a large printing-room, where are 12 prefies, melt of which employ’d at this time. The old cuts and letters are kept in a large chamber above, and the correctors fit in a great room on the fame floor. In the fiffi-market, a fquare place with many filh-ftalls well ftored with fifh of feveral forts; we faw the Vinder-fifh or Vintz , Horn-fifh , Cods, pifeis Mai, i. e. Alofa five clupea. Barbies , Holybutt , Ilootes, i. e. Oxyrynchus, Elefs. In a druggift’s ffiop we faw an Anna - rarities, dillo , a dry’d Sturgeon, Libella pifeis, Dia- bolus maris, Lacerta Mar. fquamofa, a little fquare fiffi having a round mouth, two horns before on the head, and as many at the tail, Porcus Erinaceus Mar. Stella Brafil. fpinofa, Tatau. Crocodilus, Alligator Guiana, Priflis. Crifehay. India idols paint¬ ed, two unicorns horns, one of which was of whitifh colour, eight foot and two or three inches long, a fea fpider. In another druggift’s fhop we faw a Greenland man in a boat like that which hangs up at Hull in England. Vierchaer is a houfe where prifoners are try’d. Over a gate near the key, Hands the ftatue of Brabon, with a hand in his own hand. At St. JValburg, an Engfijh faint’s church, st. Wal- is the lifting up of our Saviour on the kurgV crofs, a fair picture over the altar, drawn c ^ wrc ^- by Rubens, as others are by the fame hand. Twenty fteps, having two landing-places, lead up to the choir, under which are two chapels or altars, and a publick pav’d pafifage. At the weft end is a place where St. JValburg hid herfelf from her perfe- cutors. The ftate-houfe is a magnificent ftruc- ture built into a fquare. We went into feveral of the rooms, and finv fome of the inferiptions which were v/ritten on the triumphant arches when prince cardinal entred this city. Two of them I tran- ferib’d, viz. 1. PotentiJJimo id invicliff. Philippa IV. Ilifpaniar. & Indian. Monarchae Belgar. Princ. Phil. III. Fil. Phil. II. Hep. Imp. Caef.Caroli V. Pron. Phil. I. Abn. Imp. Ca 'ef. Maximil. I. adn. pio.fel, Patri Pa¬ triae, id Seven iff. pvincipi Fevdmando Fratri Low C.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 381 Fratri ejus Vnico S.R.E. Cardin. Belgar. & Burgundian. Gubernatori aufpicatiffimo S P$l Antuerp. pro falute & perennitate Auguftz Domus Aujlrice. Vo to fufcepto Arcum hunc Philippceutn dedicabat. 2. Dot ales geminos mundi de finibus Indos , Auftriadum domus aufpiciis for tit a fecundis , Sparfaq-, regna tenens par iter cujn lumine foliSy Mitibus cequa regit famulantem legibus or - beniy Aldus invidia fceptrum hoc cunfiifq-, ve- rendurn Hojlibus & patrio majejlas proximo coelo Magne Philippe tuo felix in Jlirpeperennet. We heard in St. James's church a mi¬ nim friar preach a Latin fermon. Before the fermon, thofe that were to receive the facrament the next day, put their alms into a box, and kifs’d the hoft. st Mar ’ At our tady’s church we faw the bilhop church 7 J of Antwerp enter the choir, having a rich mitre on, fet with precious Hones, two or three filver wands, and the pedum and a book carry’d before him. While he was celebrating the mafs, one of his attendants did take off his mitre, and fume of the canons that were employ’d at the fervice, kifs’d his hand ; and when they brought the book to him, they kifs’d his hand. His name is JaJpar Capelloy an Italian born, but of Dutch parents. This church is a great building, having a very fair tower or fteeple •, within are three rows of pillars on each fide, and altars againft moft of the pillars: feveral pictures drawn by Rubens , &c. A (lately marble porch adorned with ftatues, makes the entrance into the choir of this church. Over thealtarin our lady’s chapel, is a pic¬ ture made by a black-fmith (who wrought the curious iron-work over a well in the piazza near this church.) It is reported, That this fellow was in love with a gentle¬ woman who had refolved never to marry any but a pidlure-drawer; whereupon this man induflrioufly apply’d himfelf to that art, and attained to fo great a per¬ fection, that he drew this picture, which is well efteem’d. The telling of the num¬ ber of horfe-heads in this pidure, requires a very attentive eye. A large lanthorn on the top of the church, and thereon great figures of men, &c. which are fo proportioned, that they appeared in their natural bignefs to thofe that (land on the Skippon. ground. L/'V''v) See the infcriptions of monuments in this church, in Swartius. Without the weft end of N. Datne , is the picture of the aforefaid black-fmith, and under his painting-cools this is writ¬ ten, viz. Quintino Metiis Incomp arabilis Artis Piftori Admiratrix grataq ; Pofteritas Anno pofi obitum Seculari cid ioc xxix pofuit. Under the inftruments of his fmith’s trade, Connubialis Amor de Mulcibre Fecit Apellem 1656. Cornelius Lanfchot built a fair ^ procef- alms-houfe in this city. J !0n ’ We faw a great proceftion, which is every year about this time, being a ker- mes or fair : it began early in the after¬ noon. Firft came the feveral trades, with their enfigns carry’d on poles by fellows in red mantles. Two (hips were carry’d before two ranks of feamen : wood- mongers, bakers, cutlers, fmiths, mil¬ lers, butchers, fifh-mongers, fkinners, &c. every trade hath its chaplain in a furplice and cap. The fools-natural, maintain’d by the city, bring up the rear of thefe, who are clad in parti-coloured coats. After a good fpace follow’d the church-wardens and their chaplain, then Ko - 3 > 6 the monks of feveral orders, i. minims, 2. capuchins, 3. bogaerdens, 4. Augujline Francis, eremites, 5. Carmelites calceati, or brothers of our lady, 6. minnebroes, 7. domini- cans (the bilhop of Antwerp is of this or¬ der ;) every order had a banner carry’d before them. Next came a crofs and two candles before the canons of St. James ; and after them a pedum was carry’d be¬ fore a mitred abbot and his monks of St. Norbertus his order ; then came the ca¬ nons of N. Dame , and a pedum before the bilhop. There followed feveral pa¬ geants ; firft, a great fhip, on one fide whereof was written, VInCVLa qVe IMposVIt JCaLDI beLLona reLaXat paX IgltVr prorls CVrrltey & Ite rates. On the other fide is written, RVrfVs eX oCCa/V eX ortV properate Carina SCaLDIs & aqVatICce portVs apertVs erlt . 5 F. Vol. VI. The 382 A Journey thro ’ Part of the [ LowC Skippon. The fum of the numerical letters is 3118, which is guefled to be the year of the world when the giant was kill’d that in- fefted this place. This fhip was drawn on little wheels by men who went under the keel, and diredted its motion. Many fea-boys flood in it, and three little boats attended, which were alfo mov’d by men underneath. Next came a whale, in the belly whereof flood a fellow who fquirted water out of the mouth of it. A dol¬ phin follow’d, and on one of the banners was written, In beneficii Delphini ; then Neptune and Thetis in their chariot drawn by two fea-horles ; on one of the banners of this pageant was written, Ditto citius , on another, ALquoraplacat. An elephant came after them, and on his back flood Fortune on a globe infcrib’d, Sors omnia Verfat. Wild men ran on each fide. Par- najjus hill, and on its top flood Pegafus between two angels, and three mufes on each fide, and three before Apollo , play¬ ing on a violin over the laft three, and they finging; he was crowned with a lawrel •, one fate behind him, who was perhaps Mnemofyne: water fprung up out of ieveral places of Parnajfus. The giant fate a very great heighth in a chariot drawn by four horfes; on either fide of the horles went two men with axes in their hands, and juft before them went two men carrying two hands upon long poles. On the fore part of the chariot was v/ritten, Immanes fubigit Virtv.s animofa Gigantes ; Brabonis reperit fabula prifca fidem. Behind on the chariot was written. An. cio 10 xxxiiii. Petrus Van JElft Pittor Caroli V. Aug. Ccef. fecit. On the giant’s left fhoulder was a red fcarf, and on his right a gilt chain ; a huge truncheon in one hand, and his other on his fword- hilt. Eight young giants followed him, four men and four women. After thefe follow’d Brabo , having a kettle-drum and four trumpets before him, and a man car¬ rying the giant’s head by his horfe-fide ; then a young lad on horfe-back with his banner: a Black-moor carry’d his fword, and after him follow’d a troop of young lads with banners in their hands, and armed with head-pieces ; in the rear came pages, a cook, farrier, (Ac. a camel led by a black. The virgin of Antwerp with many little girls were drawn in a chariot by four horfes; over the virgin’s head was written Antuerpia. She delivers the keys of the city to the governor of the Spanijh countries when he makes his entrance. The Salutation , being a girl who fits in a chariot reading, while a dove hovers over her head, and an angel appears by her. On the chariot is writ¬ ten, Deo incarnato : another chariot re- prelenting the meeting of the virgin Mary and Elizabeth •, the Birth of our Saviour in a liable, the three kings offering, in another chariot, and this written, Obtu- lerunt ei aurum, thus, & myrrh am, (A procidentes adoraruni eum ; the Circum- cifion, wherein the prieft, (Ac. On the top of this chariot is written, Orbis re~ demptori. After thefe chariots followed a man who carry’d a pole with a board on it, whereon was this infcription in Dutch, Die Aenbidt eenen Godt in perfone Dryuuldich Geliick Abraham certiits Heeft Gedaen IVoort Rier Gedoont 3 eer. menichuu dich ende fal namaels des Ilemels croon ont- faen. Before this went a chariot drawn by four horfes, wherein the three angels that appeared to Abraham, and this in¬ fcrib’d, Tres Angelos vidit, & unum ado- ravit: the Refurrettion drawn by four horfes i on the two fore-horfes, the fun and moon, and on the two hindmoft, a fcythe and an angel j in the chariot, the effigies of our Saviour fitting in triumph ; death Hands at his feet, and many in white feem’d to rife out of their graves. Hell came next, being a chariot full of ugly horns, hair-crocodiles, (Ac. drawn by two horfes with ferpents hanging about them. After a good fpace came two of the gilds armed with guns, then St. Mi- chael leading the devil, and after him fol¬ low’d the other four gilds (before every gild the bows, crofs-bows, (Ac. of the gilds, were carry’d) with their chaplains. An hermit in a capuchin’s drefs, with beads and a crofs over his fhoulder, came before St. Chriftopher, who was about five yards high, in a red gown, with a white girdle about his middle, and on his breaft a round filver plate with a crofs. On his fhoulders he carry’d our Saviour drefs’d in a blue mantle full of liars, holding a globe with a crofs upon it. Many wild men in habits made of ivy-leaves, and children antickly drefs’d, went up and down. Towards the clofe of all came a horfe drefs’d up in a dragon’s skin. In one of the banners was a globe pictur’d, and under it a battledore, and under that is written, Concilio Themijlicleo -, in other banners, the picture of the city and SP$A. We faw the eafterling houfe, a fair and large building. The Hejfen houfe is an indifferent build¬ ing for merchandizing. The water-houfe furnifhes all the brew- houfes with water. The brewers carry their Low C] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and Franca 383 their barrels on very long and narrow Hedges, and ufually one horfe draws two Hedges at a time. The Englifl burfe is a fquare and little area, having iron bars about it. The great burfe is like our royal-ex¬ change, but not fo handfomely adorn’d. 'or'citfdfi attem P ted tw ' ce t0 lee the caftle ; or atatd. ^ t j me we were denied entrance, becaule, they faid, we were Englijh ; and the fecond time, the foldiers pretending we were Germans , procur’d us leave of their governor Don Ferdinando Sorlis. We firft went over two draw-bridges, and faw the works. The figure of this cita¬ del is pentagonal, having two triangular out-works or fconces; a neat ftone^wall fac’d the very thick earth-works, which are planted with rows of lime-trees ; a broad and deep trench goes round. With¬ in is a large area, and the governor hath a fair houfe ; uniform rows of lodgings for the foldiers ; the inmoft is cloifter’d*: they have a chapel here. Under the works are the magazines. Between the citizens houfes and the caflle, is a great void fpace, where none are fuffer’d to build. Quinqne folium fol. lacin. fubtus Incanis jl. lut. found here, sr.Nor- We faw the monaftery of St. Michael , monaflery. where an abbot and 6 3 monks of the order of St. Norbertus live, who are efteem’d rich, and always entertain the prince of thefe countries when he comes to Antwerp. The monaftery hath a fair entrance. Many of thefe monks have livings in the country, where they fome- times officiate. Their church is hand- fome, having eight chapels of curious marble-work. Apoftles ftatues ftand on the pillars; a fair marble entrance into the choir. Moft of the marble-work was made by one John Van Mildert (whofe monument is in the body of the church) and his fon. Over the high altar is a rare picture drawn by Rubens , who made it in that place, and had ioo florins a-day for 14 days. He alfo drew the abbot’s pic¬ ture of that time. There have been 42 abbots here. In the middle of the choir lies buried the heart of Ifabella , the wife of Carolus Audax , and daughter of_ king of France. Her effigies in brafs is on the tomb-ftone. Ortelius his monu¬ ment is in this church. See the infcrip- tion in Swartius. Under the picture of Philip Rubenius , is written, D. 0. M. S. Philippo Rubenio. IC. Johannis civis is? fenatoris Antuerpies Fil. Magni Lipfii difcipulo (A alumno Cujus doftrinam poeni ajfecutus Modeftiam feliciter adceqiiavit Skippon. Bruxelles presfidi Richardo to Romes Afcanio Cardinali Columnes Ab epiftolis A Jludiis Abiit , nonobiit , virtute id feriptis fibifuperjles , V. Kal. Septemb. An. Chrijli ciodcxl. JEt. xxxiix. Marito bene merenti de moy Duum ex illo liberorum Clares & Philippi mater floe mesroris A anioris fui monumentum P.C\ Phil. Rubenius Phil. Fil. IC. Huic Urbi a Secretis id Senator Decejjit Alt at. Bonis Viator bene precare manibus Et cogita y presivit ille , mox fequar. The cloifter is fairly glafed, and in a window is painted the ftory of St. Nor¬ bertus and St. Bernardus bringing the true pope to his chair, which another had ufurped. In their library is a prefs where they lock up heretical books. Here we faw a curious manuferiptof thebible, full of fine pictures, written by one Conrads of this cloyfter, Anno 14. . . When prince cardinal was here, the monks entertained him with the baiting of a bull. We faw another proceffion. Firft came a procep the feveral trades; after them came the/ / perpolitis moribus unicuiq ■ earns, omni virtutis genere laudabilis, prxfter- tim & C ' we wenC to g reat church, church. a ftately ftru&ure, having a handfome high tower, and faw feveral monuments, viz. 1. The effigies of grave Henry of Naf- fau and his wife ; over them his pieces of armour fupported by four foldiers, like Sir Francis Vere' s monument in JVeJlminJler abbey. ' 2. Grave Englebert' s, having eight fair ftatues, among which a cardinal and a monk. 3. Grave Horne's and his two wives, an ancient tomb. 4. Fredericas d Remeffe and his wife, he died 13 kal. Jim. 1538. 5. Minheer Vanderleeke and Van Bre¬ da, who built this church, Obiit MCCCXC I I I I. 6. Job. Feneramundus , D. de Borginval , Carol. V. a machinis bellicis. Ob. Cal. Maii 1536. 7. Heere Van AJfandelfe. An Efcutcheon hangs up for Sir Fbo. Aylejbury , bart. and another for Ancient AJhly. || In the fame place where grave Henry li :s buried, is preferv’d a picture drawn either by Julio Romano or Raph. Urbin. When Spinola took Breda he would not fu tier prince Henry's monument to be de¬ faced. Here is a curious brafs font; and a fair organ, with this written on it, Deum colite in organo. Here are alfo two chro¬ nograms mention’d in the hiflory of Spi¬ nola's fiege of Breda •, and at the weft hangs this infcription, wherein the nume¬ ral letters of the five laft words make the year of our Lord when this city was re¬ taken by the ftates. Auxilio Solius Dei Aufpiciis Confcederati Belgii. Ferdinando Auftriaco Hifpan. Infante Cum ingenti exercitu Fruftra fuccurrente A. xxin Julii. Obfeffam A. xiix Augufli Oppugnatam Fr. Henricus Princeps AraVsIVs BreDaM eXpVgnat SeXto oCtobrls. We faw the caftle, and were in the 7 Ucajlle: prince’s palace, an indifferent building. A neat cloifter on two fides of the court. We walk’d the fortifications of the caftle, which are very ftrong, having a deep trench about, and were fliewed the place where the turf-boat entred, which covered 70 men that furpriz’d the caftle for prince Maurice 1590. The ftory of it was thus related to us ; that when the boat was admitted in, the fkipper made the guard drunk, and employ’d porters to carry lome of the turfs away, but would not fuffer all to be remov’d ’till the foldiers were ready, who then came out and kill’d the centinels and guard; and immediately fir’d the bridge towards the town, and planted pieces againft it, entred the palace, and took the governor’s fon prifoner (the governor being abfent) who had a letter in his pocket which difcover’d the whole defign, which he durft not break open, becaufe his hither was once much difpleas’d with him for opening a letter in his abfence : prince Maurice lay not far off with his army, and upon notice given made his approaches, and the next day, March 4. 1590, took the town. This boat was kept ’till Spinola gain’d the place 1625, and then it was hewn in pieces and burnt. Over the gate is a fair cloi- fter’d walk. The garden is neat, and fet with many maft trees. The prince hath a pleafure-houfe not far from Bredah. We viewed the city walls, which are very ftrong, having two trenches of water, one of which is very broad, and without them half moons, Gfc. Here are 17 companies of foot, and 4 troops of horfe ; two of the companies are Englijh , under j- vo com- Col. Killegrezv and Capt. Read ; the go- ponies of vernor’s name is Hovotoejt , who has been ungliih governor near 20 years. Every morning ! ol ‘“ eri ' the horfe foldiers come to the market¬ place, ftay for the keys of the gates, which Skifpon. 388 Skippon. v-'-VXJ Gertru- denburg. One Eng- lifh comp, offol tilers. Dort. Two Eng¬ lish chur¬ ches , The gresit church. A Journey thro ’ Part of th which are return’d again to the ftadt- houfe. When any boat enters the haven with any merchandize, &c. they fearch it and ftab a J'pit in feveral places. The ftreets of Bredah are well built. May 22. We went by waggon, and pafs’d in fight of twolconces,and after three leagues riding, went over two draw¬ bridges, and came into Gerlrudenburg •, which is indifferently built, having two or three ftreets, one very large, fet with trees on each fide. We walk’d the works, which are ftrong and well trench’d about, and at every platform obferv’d a little wooden houfe pitch’d over, where the cannot bullets, fcowrers, &c. are kept. From the walls we had a profpedl of a maft-wood. Here are three companies of foot, one of which is Englijh under Capt. Doleman , and one troop of horfe. Reed fparrows obferv’d here. About noon we went into the paftage boat, and after fix hours (the wind being not very favourable) we came to the be¬ ginning of the river (that runs to Dort) and went afhore, whence we walk’d an hour and an half to Dort , where the Eng¬ lijh merchants have great privileges, and keep a court. Here are two Englijh churches, and a French church. The ftreets are neat, handfomly built, with tall houfes, not inferior to thofe in Ant¬ werp. The exchange is over a channel of water between two very long ftreets; one fide of the exchange is a cloifter : the ftreets are pav’d with ftone in the middle, and on each fide with brick fet edge-ways. We obferv’d the houfes here,at Middleburg , Bredah , and other the ftates towns, to have their upper ftoiies bending more for¬ ward than the lower, being defign’d to hang over fo, that the rain might not eafily beat in. One of the water-ports is a pretty building •, the key is fair, having a platform near it. The great church is very large and handfome, having double ifles on each fide the choir : a pinnacle was defign’d to be built on the fteeple, but the workmen perceiv’d the ground not firm enough to bear fo great a weight: off the fteeple we had a good profpeft of the country and city, faw Bredah fteeple, and feveral parts of Brabant. We were in one of their doels or gilds belonging to the gunners, and in a larger upper room or hall where the fynod fat 161 ... The feats are ftill remaining. We faw the forges where iron is melted and fhap’d into anvils, anchors, £f fc. the bellows and hammers are mov’d by four mills, which are turn’d by horfes. Over the entrance to the mint-houfe is written Divo Car. V. Ccef. and Moneta. [Lovj C Another doel call’d St. George's. Every time boats go oft to Rotterdam , &c. a little bell is rung at the port. Here we faw many great and long boats which come down the Rhine with wine, & fc. May 23. About three in the afternoon we went in the paftage-boat, and in five hours we reach’d Rotterdam , three leagues Rotter- from Dort : when we landed, a porter dain * crowded our luggage in a little cart or barrow to our lodging. The great church is dedicated to St. The great Lawrence , and is a large brick building •, church. in it are two organs, and a monument with this infeription ; Meritis & AEternitati IVittenii Corneln de With Equit is. fjhti magnitudinem Juam eidem element0 de- buit cui pracipuam hadtenus Hollandia debet, totnm terrarum ambitum circum- navigavit, utramq j lndiam , Nauta, Miles , Prxfedlufq-, Want arum ac mili- turn ntidit, expugnato Jpeculatorio Na- •vigio cum min bus ipfe multum inferior ammo major ejjet , Argentiferce ClaJJi Americana capiundx njiam pate fee it , in- numeras nsariarum gentium nances ce- pit , incendit 5 [ubmerfit , per omnes gra- dus militia nansalis e lu ft at us Proprator Patrice claffes expeditiones maritimas annis xx rexit , decks quinquies claJJi - bus cum hofte conjlixit , raro aquata clade plerunq-j Vidior ac Lriumphator e praliis rediit , refiabat magnus tot belli faemori- bits imponendus dies viii. Noncembr. Su- premim Virtutis opus edidit , ibi primus in pralium mens, Pratoriam Suecorum inn: a fit ^ affix it dein propratoriam ac pragrandes aliquot eorund 5 alias armis, mins , animis infirudiiffimas fol a proprx- toria fua rejecit , ajjhxit , fubmerfit , do¬ nee a fociis undiji defertus, ab hoftib * ttndiq ; circumfufus , difeerpto globis cor- pore bellatricem anirnam coelo reddidit , corpus ipfe Rex hojlts generofa fortitu- dinis hojlilis admiratione fplendide corn- pofitum , in patriam rsmifit. Sic redeunt quos Honos ac Virtus remittunt. Vixit annis LIX. P. Rycx fecit. His effigies, and a fea-fight, is well carved in the marble. Oft the fteeple (where many little bells hang that chime every quarter of an hour) we had a view of the city, which is of a triangular fi¬ gure. The chiming wheel is great and made of iron. Nigh this church is a little houfe where Erafmus was born : the upper part of the houfe is a fchool, and a grocer’s lhop is underneath. Erafmus' s pi&ure is over the Lozv C.} Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 389 the door, where thefe Latin and Spanifh verfes are written: Bn eft a Cafa es nacido Erafmo I’beclogo ceiebrado , Par Doclnna Sennalado , la pur a fee nos a revel ado. Aidibus bis ortus mundum decoravit Erafmus Artibus ingenuis , relligione , fide. Fatalis feries nobis iuvidit Erafmum At Defiderium tollere non potuit. An Eng- lilh church . An engine to rime linen . In a large area, or market-place, Hands his brafs itatue, turning over the leaf of a book. The Englifh and the French have churches here ; the latter is a pretty fquare build¬ ing with an organ in it. The Hreets of this city are fairly built, and well furnifh’d with tradefmens fhops; and they are pav’d in the middle with Hone, and each fide with brick fet edge¬ ways. The fifh-market is a convenient place, made like two cloiHers one before another. 1 he exchange is a fquare area, having one fide cloilters. The Hadthoufe is indifferent. The town is well wall’d and trench’d, and without the trench are walks of trees. We obferv’d the laundrefies rince their linen after this manner: The wet piece of cloth is at each end fa- fien’d to the two iron hooks a b , and the walher-woman or laundrefs turns the wheel A, and the hook rt, which wrings the cloth as much as you will : A C and B D are the poHs the hooks are join’d to ; the hook a pafies through the poH A C. Many pieces of linen may be thus wrung together. The gates of the city are handfome. In a fhop belonging to Chrftopher vander Mulen we faw Brafilean fpiders teeth, rattles of Indian fnakes, the rind of an Indian apple. Bagadis taken in the Old Maes in May , common in Scotland. We faw alfo three forts of Simice , one of them had a great head and long face, bigger than the other two ; another fort having long black hairs, which was the hand- fomefl and very loving •, it fmelt of mufk. MoH of the inhabitants live upon tra¬ ding at fea. 'll,, Rotterdam is govern’d by 4 burgoma- vemment. Hers, and 24 magifirates or Vroetfchap , Yol. VI. who chufe all officers, viz. the 4 burgo- Skippon. mafiers out of themfelves (each of thefe burgomalters isprefident for three months) The Vroetfehap continue for life, and when one dies they eleft another out of the ci¬ tizens. By a lav/ of Maximil. and Mary, 1574, the 40, i. e. Vroetfchap , 29 Apr. every year, chufe with white and black beans, or by fuch kind of fuffrage, 7 (by late laws reduc’d to 5) who are fworn impartially to chufe immediately without eating, & fc. 18 (but none out of themfeives) out of the 40, or other citizens: the names of thofe 18 to be fent to their prince, or in his abfence, to his governour and council of Holland , and out of them the prince is to chu e two confuls or burgomafiers,and feven efehevins annually (the confuls always to be out of the 40); if the prince does not within 14 days chufe, then the two firH nam’d, and the feven firH nam’d, to be Judices , i. e. efehe¬ vins. Grot. Apologet. c. 9. p. 18 r, 182. May 25. About fix in the afternoon we took our feats in the pafiage-boat, fome- what like our pleafure-barges on the Thames (fuch a boat goes off every hour of the day) and by one horfe were drawn in two hours time, two Butch miles to Delft. In this paflage there was a colle< 5 lion made by the boatmen among the pafifen- gers for the poor. Delft is a large city very fairly built. Delft, having channels of water running through many of the Hreets : the exchange is a neatly pav’d area (paved with brick) ha¬ ving one fide apd a half cloifier’d. We obferv’d a cryer in the Hreets, who before he fpoke, Hruck a piece of brafs, and made a noife like the found of a tinker’s kettle, which was inftead of ringing a bell, ufed by the cryers in England. The mar¬ ket-place is a fair fquare, where the Hadthoufe Hands •, a neat building adorn’d with a curious gilt front, and a handfome flatue of jultice ; on it is written Hollandia Anno Domini cioiocxx Juftitia Delphenfium Cura reparata M.C/E. Over the door is written, / Ilcec Domus edit .... 1530. Two large churches in this city, each having two organs. In that church near the market-place, is the monument of The Hadrian Berkhoutii I. V. D and in the k:rk ‘ middle of the choir is a Hately tomb, viz. 5 G A I S9° Skippon. A marble arch over two ftatues, one reprefents prince William lying along, the other fitting in his armour ; at each cor¬ ner are four handfome figures for Chrift , juft ice, liberty, &c. with this infcription ; D. O. M. Et Aternx memoriae Galiehni Najfovii Stipremi Araufionenfium principis , Patris patriae £hii Belgii fort unis fuas pojlbabuit Et J'uorum. ValidiJJimos enercitus are plurimum privato Bis confcripjit , bis induxit. [ pulit: Qrd.inv.rn aufpiciis Hifipanices tyrannidempro - Vent religionis cult am , avitas patriae leges Re-vocavit , reftituit Jpfam deniq; libertatern tantum non ajfertam Maaritio principi Patentee virtutis bxredi filio Stabiliendam reliqmt Herds vere filii prudent is , invibli: fhiem Philip. II. HiJ'p. R. ille Europe ti- [wor, timuit , Non domuit , non terrvit ; Sed. erupt o pcrcuJJ'ore fraude nefanda S uft it lit. Fcsderat. Belg. Pro-vine. Perenne memor. monum. Fee. Many chiming bells hang in the win¬ dows of the fteeple. •/-'? Onde In the old church, a large building, with- Kirke. in the choir, is a monument like de Wit Ids at Rotterdam , thus inlcribed, At ernes Memoriae fihti BatavoSj qui virtutem ac verinn la- \borem amas. Lege ac luge. Batavae gent is decus , virtutis bellicae ful- men hie jacetj qui vivas mmqua.ni fa¬ cility & imperatorem Jlantem mori debere exemplo Juo docuit: amor civium , bofti- um terror oceani ftupor , Martinas Har- perti Irompius , quo nomine plures con¬ tinent ur laides quam hie lapis capita jane angujticr , & cui fckola oriens & occidens mare materia triumphorum , uni- verfus orb is theatrum glorias fuit , prac- donum certa pernicies , commerc'd felix ajfertcr , familiaritate utilis non vilis , pojiquam nautas ac milites durum genus paterno & cum cfficacia benigno rexit imperio , poft A praelia quorum dux fuit aut pars rna.gna , poft injignes fupra fidem vibi arias , poft fummos infra merit urn honorcs , tandem hello Anglico tantum non vibior , certe invibius "xT Aug. anno Arcs Ch rift ianx c i o i o c l 111. ‘ Alt at. l v i, [Loiy C vivere ae vine ere deftit. Fosderati Belgii Patres Heroi optima merito M. P. Over his arms is this diftich. Urbs Phoebi cineres jablat, fed currus Ig¬ nores Ingreditur quoties egrediturq•, mart. On another monument are thefe follow¬ ing verfes. llltiftri ferie longaeq ; ab origine gentis Morgani hie conjux Elizabetba tegor Maximi foboles quod non nefeitur in orbe Nomen & invito tempore femper erit Virtutum fads eft mi placuijfe marito Sftuod pro me loquitur tarn preciofus Amor. In the fame Church is this infcription over a Sea General, viz. Deo Opt. Max. id JEternce Memoriae Sacrum. Eugete faederati mortuum quern praeclara in Kemp, banc merita non Jinunt ejfe immor- talem Petrus Heinius Archithalaffus Bra- filice , mart Mexicano , Lufitanis , Morinis fatale nomen hie jacet , cui fortitudo mor¬ tem , Mors vitam dedit , Delphorum portu fub feptentrione editus natalis foli famam reportatis c portu Mataneae ad occidentem opimis fpolijs gemino orbi intulit parentuni humilem J'ortem Animi magnitudine G? rerum geftarum gloria tranfeendens non nafei femper Heroes docuit Jed audendo fieri per inelublabiles fortunes terra mariq ; cafus numinis favore elublaius , Indiam , Hifi- paniam , Flandriam , captivitatis Jure mox libertatis ac Vibloriae teftes habuit , fine te- meritate intrepidus , fine faftu magnani- mus dificiplinae navalis tenax non fine fe¬ ver it ate ut obfiequij primum omnis patiens Jic imperij pojhnodum omnis Cap ax. Anno cidiocxxiv preefebli vicem gerens Ur¬ ban Salvatoris in Brafilia inter pritnos exfeendens Lufitanis ereptum ivit Anno cioiocxxvii clajfi Proof eel us naves hoftium fix & viginti fub ejufdcm Urbis mcenibus ftupendo facinore expugnavit di- ripuit exufijit alios infiuper tres incredibili aufiu ad Maream infiulam aggrefifus pre¬ mia belli fipeblante hofte abduxit Anno croiocxxvm clafifiem navium viginti auro , argento mercibufiq ; pretioJiff mis gra- vem ad Cubes littora fielici occurfiu ofifien- dens fieliciore marte fiuperavit & novus Argonauta e novo v.ovi Orbis Colchide aureum Hifipaniarum , Regis vellus Princi- pibus , Europceis fiormidabile non in Grce- ciam fed Fcederatorum terras nullo hable- nus exemplo tranfivexit & Societati Occi¬ dentals Indies immenfas opes Hifipano in- opiam , patriae filer robur , Jibi immortals decus A Journey thro 5 Part of the Jjow. C.l Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 391 dec ns paravit, Tandem mans prafedu- ram quam foris merucrat domi adeptus, dum navali preelio cum Morinis dec emit, navium hoftiumqy poft cruentam pugnam vidor ipfe machina majore id us fatalem metam fine metu gloriofe adivit. Ejus fames Virtutifq •, ergo ex ill. id' presp. Or- dinum decreto rei maritime Prafedi Se¬ mitones, Mon. hoc pof Vixit an nos li. menf v 1. dies x x 111. To fiv SctVHv Ik di Groningen ) Overyjfell . 62000 QOOO I IOOO I 5COO 3000 IOOOOO In thefe provinces there are ufually about an hundred thoufand foldiers that fwear fealty to the ftates. Holland hath three colleges of the ad - T ; e co \. miralty, one at Amfterdam , one at Ret- leges of the terdam, one at Horne, which is fometimes - at Encbufen ; each college confiding of four Hollanders and three others. Zealand hath a college at Middleburg, which confifts of four Zealanders. Frife- 39 ^ A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Low C. Skippon. Frifeland hath alfo a college at Harling, formerly at Dockum, confifting of four Frifelanders , and three others. Each college’s deputies are chofen and fworn by the ftates-general, and they have a fecretary and a treafurer. Delegates are lent from the feveral col¬ leges to the Hague, where they conlult with the ftates-general. Thefe colleges name the captains of fhips, and the admiral eledts one out of the number nominated. The admiral is prefident of the college, and in his ab¬ sence, the lieutenant general. In the navy courts there is no appeal under the fum of 600 florins. In hifce curiis fola fecunda replicatio quarn vidgo dnplicam vacant litigantibus partibus eft permijfa. Of what is taken at fea, a fifth part belongs to the ftates, a tenth part to the admiral, and all the reft is diftributed among the feamen, &c. a conn of The Bofch, Bredab , Bergen op Zoome, appeal for Majlricht , Grave, Steeneberg, Eindhoven, c:ties > Hellmont , and feveral villas.es in Brabant , oCC. lft 7 o 7 Brabant. ma Y appeal in trials about titles, to a court conftituted at th t Hague 1591. which confifts of leven affeffors, a fecretary, a treafurer, and a foilicitor. Thofe places have no place in (but are under the go¬ vernment of) the ftates-general. The go¬ vernment of Drcnt. Drent chufes a governor, and concurs The flates- with the feven provinces in the laying and bearing the impofitions, and hath an am¬ bulatory or itinerant court (Trom whence is no appeal) called the Lottinch ; it hath delegates, which attend matters of money and injury at the convention ulually held at a village call’d AJfen. The deputies are one nobleman and four others. Co - word and Meppelle are in Drent. In the ftates-provincial of Holland and provincial Wef-Frifeland are about 12 noblemen, ■of Holland and the delegates of 1. Dart, 2. Harletn, Friie’and"" 3 - Leyden, 4. Amfterdam , 5. Goude, 6. Rot¬ terdam, 7. Gorcom, 8. Schoonhoven, 9. Brill, 10. Alcmar, 11. Horn, 12. Enchufen , 13. Edam, 14. Monekedam, 15. Medem- blic, 16. Puremerend : and if there be war, peace, tributes, &c. to be debated, there come fome delegates from, 1. Woerden, 2. Gertrudenberg, 3. Narden, 4. Mu den, 5. Oudewater, 6. Huefda, p .Wefop, 8. Wor- com. The delegates are for the moft part burgomafters, to whom is joyn’d a Sca- bin, a civil lawyer who is called a Pen- fioner. Thefe ftates are called the Ver- gaderinghe van de Heeren Staten Van Hol¬ land ende W. Frifeland. In the abfence'of thefe ftates there is a committee or another council,which takes care of moft affairs, except the monies, -A commit- and calls the ftates-provincial together tee or *' l0 ~ upon great occafions: it confifts of one dipl^L nobleman, and delegates from the cities. feveral 1 his is called the Ghe committee de Radenprovinces, van de Heeren Staten van Hollandt end W. Frifeland. In both thefe thepenfioner or advocate of Holland is prefident, and takes the votes. The ftates-provincial of Zealand confift Theflates- of the prince of Orange (who is marquis P' 0V1 ‘ ; - : - of Vere and Flijfmg) or his deputy, and‘ , ^ 2,eaiaiu ' fix deputies from, 1. Middleburg , 2. Zi- riczea, 3. Goes, 4. Tola, 5. Flijfmg, 6. Vere to whom is joyn’d the penfioner and fe¬ cretary. T he government of the cities in Hoi- The go- land confifts of a Scout (Quaefitor ) who vemmer.t accufes criminals before the Eftbevins , and f “f Hu ‘~ hath no ftipend. A council called the Vroetfchap, or den Breden Raden, confifting of 40 in Leyden, of 30 in fome cities, &c. according to the number of the chief and wealthy citizens, who are chofen for life. They aflemble when the ftates-provincial are called, to confider things that they are to offer up to the ftates debate. Out of the Vroetfchap, by moft votes, are ele&ed four, in fome but two, con- fuls or burgomafters, who take care of the government, and ftifle controverfies, by fitting every day an hour or two to ar¬ bitrate between the inhabitants and pre¬ vent trials before the Efchevins. Out of the Vroetfchap are alfo chofen the Scabini or Efchevins : in fome cities they are feven, in others nine, who fit three or four times in a week to decide controverfies. In the country villages caufes of 50 Courts of florins value are adjudged •, in towns, 20 judicature. florins, in the Idler cities, 130 florins, and in the greater, caufes of 300 florins are determined. But an appeal lies, in greater films, before inferior judges cal¬ led Curia Hollandica, and then before the chief fenate, and to a double number of that fenate, if the plaintiffs are not fatif- fied : but there is a penalty of 40 florins in Curia Hollandice, 75 florins in fupremo Senatu, and of 200 florins, if there be no fault in the firft fentence. For the ending; of fuits under 60 flo- rins, fome of the richeft and better fort of citizens are chofen, before whom dif¬ ferences between mafters and fervants are brought, an Efchevin fitting prefident i and if any one is unfatisfied with their judgment, there is an appeal to the Ef¬ chevins. This court is called D: Commi - fariffen op de elesne fcicken. The Low C.l Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and trance. 397 The penfioner affeffor or fyndic, is like a recorder in England , whom the Vroet- fchap conlult with. See, for farther particulars of the go¬ vernment of the towns in Holland , Gro- tius’s Apologeticus. No beggars are permitted to wander, but are, if difcovered, prefently carry’d away to the work-houfes. The Eaft- The Eaft-India company was begun in lnAh.com- the year 1602. and is govern’d by the H' n y Bervindt-hebbers , or curators, which are nominated by the adventurers, who are called the Hooft Participanten , that firft put in a flock above 6000 florins (in Weft-Frifeland the adventure of 3000 flo¬ rins makes a Hooft Particip.) the reft being excluded that adventured lefs; and they are elected in fome places by the ftates of the province, in others, by the city magiftrates. There are 14 curators or governors in the college of Amfterdam , 12 in Zealand , 14 in the college of the Menfe , and 14 in IVeft-Frifeland: and on great occafions each college fends a certain number of delegates to an extraordinary, or the chief affembly held either at Amfterdam or Middleburg. 1602. The firft flock of this company was 66 tons of gold, and encreafed in fix years time, at 1608. (befides a diftribu- tion of fome gain among the adventurers) to more than 300 tons of gold. For the value of five florins they bought above 100 florins worth of In¬ dian commodities ; the yearly revenue of each man at laft being near half the value of his flock *, which is not much to be wondred at, when it is certain, that the India commodities are worth, every year (being imported) above fix millions of gold, or 6,000,000 florins. At Batavia in Eaft-India , is a governor chofen every three years, and a council that manageswar, and another that decides caufes, &c. There are alfo two fupreme officers, one over the foldiery, and the other that overfees the trade-affairs; to whom are joyn’d two cenfors. See more particulars in the Status Fee¬ der. Belgii , concerning this republick. Vol. VI. The univerfities of the united provin- Skippon. ces, are, 1. Franeker, 2. Groningen , 3. Ley den , 4. Utrecht, 5 . Nimmegen. vrfiths in At Amfterdam and Harderzvick are ll- luftres [choice. May 31. In the evening we went from Leyden, the Hague , three hours by water to Ley¬ den : at the half-way fluice we chang’d our boat, and took notice of a poll, every furlong diftance, marked 1, 2, 3, &c. The great church at Leyden is dedica- St. Peter’* ted to St. Peter , having double ifles, or clmrch - two rows of pillars on each fide the nave. We read here the inferiptions printed in Hegcnitius , viz. Epitaphium chronofticon , and what are on the monuments of Bou- kenbergius , Ileurnius , Bonlius , P. Reinerus Bontius F. a phyfician , Erpennius , Bacches- rus , Dodonesus , and I tranferib’d thefe fol¬ lowing, D.O.M. Et Ewaldo Screvelio Adriani trigefimo Hagce qua Balavorum au¬ la eft confulatu gefto infignis Filio An. cid id lxxv. Ibidem nato Senatori & Me¬ dico ', dein Medicines in Leidenfi Academia Profeffori primario & Red or i magnifico fin- gulari dodrina , Virtute & pro ...in omnes Comitate clariftimo , cut in vita nihil carius quam aliis earn velut dare , nihil in morte jucundius fuit quam ad meliorem & immor- talem tranfire. Anno cid ioc xlvii de- nato , Maria Van Swaenfwiick uxor ma- rito id liberi Parenti dulciffuno deft derat if- ft?no mceftiffmi H.M.P. Sit tibi, qui nemini gravis vix ifti terra Hois. In the choir is a grave-ftone over An- tonius Fhyjius, qui obiit ymo. Novemb. 1640. annosnatus 75, menfes 3. On another, Domina Abbatiffa Joanna de Does , &c. and this infeription over Feftus Hommius , viz. Hoc tumulo conditur vir celeberrimus Feftus Hommius , S.S. Theologies Dodor Eccleftes Leidenfts paftor. Coll. Theol. Regens , do- cuit eccleftam hanc annos 40. rex it coll, an¬ no s 20. Vix it annos 66. menfes 6. denatus 5 Julii, 1642. r, l Here I 398 Skippon. A Journey thro' Part oj the [Low Q Here I alfo tranfcrib’d carefully this following Dutch epitaph, viz. Hiere Viet begraven Mr. Ludolph Van Ceulen Gevoefe Nederduytfci Profejfor in JVtfconJlige IVeten Schappen Inde Hoge Schole defer ftede Geboren in Hildejheim int Jaer 1540 den xxviii January ende Gejlowen den xxxi December 1610 de IVelcke in Syn leven door veel arbeyos des ronds omloops wtefte reden Tegen Syn middelyti gevon de it beeft ah bier Volcht, i.c Mi id 20 21 jfr'tuiZe'rruidnAtyr 14155265358573532384626433832 995° 288 ' ,U , 1 j> 2000000000000 a 0000000000000000000000 or a /e/ft&r 7 ?a end'??' i4>5j?26f3$8j7jj 238462643383 27750288 2/10213 1000000000000000000000000770000270 00470 30 13 e/u 2)1317710# r 3) r/l 0 6r >3<2 771/0 ^703 07td J0 lJ 7000000000 00 000000000300007700000)000 )P it 1 / 700007 - 7 174771677' )/u’ 7 i 24 25 4 2 653583973 )3 23846 264336527730260 or 2)7 a A/Tor 2/1071 24159 2 65 358_9793 238462643385 7795O 285 t- e f _ 4/3 t/d 771 / 2 / 2/671 22 / l ■ V ' 2)4115 t/on oni/otrp rtirrrt/or \ r tt ,415916535847331384 6264JJ83?7450!88 •4*595 O 02702 ) 2 ) 000 O 00 O 0 O OO 270 O 0 OOOOOOOOOO 27 OO 27 'S' < 4/j >41002653584 793 238462643383 2 735 ° 2 } J 127000 O 0 OOOOO 0O00O0OOOOOOOO oooooooooo\ ffta eo' 22/j 2/0 7777 '2/7/7//971 • 1000 000000000000003000270000000000000 ^ On another monument in the body of the church, is written. Opt. Mem. Everhardi Bronckhorfii Daventrienfis J. C”- Qui in juVenlute per celebriores Germaniae Academias munere primurn difcendi mox etiam docendi perfundlus ac deinde DoElons laurea infignis in urbe patria confulatu lau - dabiliter perfunftus a curatoribus Illuftris Academiae Lugdunenfts in locum Viri cla- rijfvni Hugonis Doelli I. Chi fuffcRus & rard eruditione> induftria , diligentid ac comitate ufus ordinarii Profejfor is atque Antecefforis juris per annos plus minus XL'ta (8 fubinde magnifici Re it oris titulo tandem publicis funftionibus fcriptifque & fenio confeElus ac emeritus Lugduni Bata- vortm vivere defiit Anno cioidcxxvii cum vixijfet annos lxxiii. Monumentum ft non aeternum faltem durabile Alitha d Middleburgo conjux liberique pietatis ergo P. C. On his grave-ftonc was written to the fame purpofe, and alfo this, Praeclara ingenii monumenta in hominum manibus id admiratione verfantus. Aftrcere columen tuus hie Daventria conful Profejfor tuns hie Leida Batava jacet Qua mortalis erat Bronchorftius excidit cevo Nefcit at e libris gloria parta mori. The monument of Hadrianus de Sainc - iiennoys diflus la Deufe Dominus de Manage , a gentleman o VHainault, who left his coun¬ try by reafon of the wars, and fhortly after died here Anno 1579. Snellius the mathematician hath this in¬ fer ib’d ; D. 0 . M. Et Pofteritati facrum Clarijfmo dodlijfmoque viro Domino Wille- brordo Snellio a Royen Mathematicorum in Batavis Ocello (8 in Academia quae hie celeberrima , mathematum Profejfori qua- qua verfum celeberrimo folertijfuno , dig- nijfrno meritiffmo necnon ledlijfmae ca- ftijftmaeque matronae Mariae de Langliac conjugi carijftmae hoc qualecunque Mr»//6crw- vov debitae erga parentes obfervantiae t**- tov five indubitatum fignum liberi moefti pofuere. Denatus 30 Oilob. 1626. De- nata n Novemb. 1627. This following is on Polyander the di¬ vine. Deo Opt. Max. Sacrum AEternae memoriae reverendi id nobtlijfmi viri D, Johannis Polyandri d Kerchoue ex 72 V . Jjrw C] Lo w-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 399 ex antiquijfima id nobiliffma Kerch ovio- rum Gandavenfium familia in Ecclefia Gallo-Belgica Dordrettana annos xx pa- floris, in Academia Lugd. Bat. do £1 or is id prof efforts primarii annos xxxv. o Elies ReEloris magnifici id xxm fynodi Gallo- Belg.praefidis , hie pietate, prudentia, pro- bitate, morumfuavitate, liberalitate , rz»z- 7 /zi moderations, pads id concordiae amore, netnini fecundus, omnibus gratus id charus, nulli gravis, £# docendo perfpicuus, dif- putando promptus, z« concionando facun- dus , memoriae id judicii incomparabilis, eddem qua vixit tranquillitate placide fu- premum diem claufit in fine ReEloratus fui cclavi cididcxlvi. iv. Febr. aetatis fiuae lxxviii. Joannes a Kerchoue Heenulietae dominus faltuum Hollandiae praefectus filius unicus moerens pofiuit. In the French church we faw the mo¬ numents of Jofiephus Juflus Scaliger, and Carolus Clufius, wliofe inferiptions are in Hegmitii Itiner. The uni- We went to the Academia or fchools, be- "•nfity- ing one pile of brick building, having at the entrance an infeription printed in Meurfi Ath. Bat. The divinity fchool is a large room ; the profefior’s feat is at the upper end, and the ftudents feats in rows (being the fame in every fchool.) This and thephi- lolophy fchool are below ; over them are the law and phyfick fchools, and above thefe is the OJficina Elzeviriana, as well as below in the court, where we faw feveral preflfes at work. The profeflors names, and what fubjeds and books they read on, are printed in a catalogue. Profejfon. We heard a ledure of D. Job. Van Horn, profefior of anatomy, and thefe follow¬ ing, viz. D. Job. Antonides Vander Linden, who difeourfed de Tuff, that thecaufes of it are crudities arifing within the ftomach, which ftimulate the fuperior orifice, and fo the motion is communicated to the diaphragms, and then to the lungs. This he difeover’d as a new thing to his au¬ ditors. D. Jacobus Golius , Prof. Rlath. on Gaf- fendi Aflron. in the phyfick fchool. D. Dan. Colonius I. V. D. id Prof. D. David Stuartus Log. &c. profefior on metaphyficks in the philofophy fchool. D. Anton. Thyfeus Eloqu. Profejfor , on Pomponius Mela. D. Allaraus Uchtmannus, Hebr. Ling. Prof. D. Steph. Merchant I. V. D. a French¬ man. D. Jo. deRaei. L. A.M. MD. id Philof. Prof a learned naturalift. - D. Adolphus Vorfliius, Med. id Botan. a pbyfok P rc f- w ^° e ven i n gs demonftrates £*nlen. plants in the garden, where we heard him name the plants, and pointing to them in Ssirrox. their beds. The plants he ihew’d at one time, were in two beds (the nth and 12th in order) were thefe ; i. Laurus, Fumaria claviculata, Valeriana fl. albo, Mentha Cafitaria Hifp. Ranunculus nemor, Armerius Anglicus , Refieda Fal. Martagon Vulg. Ranunc. Gram. fl. lut. Ran. Pyrenesus, Crocus, Ononis non fpinofa minor fl. purp. Confolida reg. Valeriana minor, Pimpinella hircina faxifraga , Narcififus vulgaris, Her¬ mann, Tithymallus characias , five efula ferrata , Gentiana major, five Aloe Gallica crefcit in montibus Valefice , Lap]us barbatus, Aloe Atneric. aculeata in infula Zocotora prope Africam Ranunc. anguflif. id latif. Po¬ lygonum. 2. Cytifus verus maranthce , Col- chic u?n majus , Arijlolochia Vera, Rubia mi¬ nima, Juniperus Vulg. id baccif. Pulmona- ria fl. albo, Hieracium quintum Clufei , Viola pentagonia Belg.five Onobrychis, Onobrychis prima , Gladiolus, Sonchus hieracites, Tra- chelium five flos Afric. Lychnis fylv. Iris Perfica, Lychnis Conftantinop. fl. eleg. Sta- chys lychnites fpuria Flandr. fl. fublut. Au- ricul. Urfi fpecies varies , Myagrum monofper- mum, Thlafpi fol.. . . Rofa Turcica five Auflriaca fl. coccineo, Lychnis hirf. min. re¬ pens, Calamintha montana preeftantior, Eru- ca Monfp. femine quadrang. Hyacinthus fe- rot. pyrenesus flo. obfol. Atriplex fragifera, Ph alar is, Pfyllium annuurn, Carduus Maries, Acanthus Sativus Marmorea dicta, quia marmoribus olim infculpta, Clematis Urens five Flammula Bee tic a, Smyrnium, Yuc a fo¬ lds Aloes. At another ledure we heard him dif- courfe concerning the Faba Veterum ; that in N. Holland they give fuffrages with beans, and are therefore call’d boon- men •, and that the fruit of the Ficus In- dica breeds an infed which makes the In¬ dian cochinele ; and that in Italy (which we obferved mod; in Sicily and Calabria) they ufe the pith of Ferula Galbanifera inftead of tinder ; and fo he interpreted that in Hefiod, & miku r*{6siu, idc. how that Projnetheus brought this fire from heaven in the hollow of a ferula. At the fchools fome profefiors wear gowns, others only their cloaks; and when they begin to read, they turn up an hour-glafs, and conclude ufually with that time. In the divinity fchool we faw their Publick manner of performing a publick exercife. &fr»tuti- At the fchool gates ltood a beadle with- om ' out a gown, having a filver Half, where he flay’d for the coming of the profefior, who was in his gown, and the refpondent, who was in his cloak ; then the beadle ulher’d them into the fchool, where the profelfor took his feat, and the refpon¬ dent his under the profefior. The printed Thefes 400 A Journey thro' Part of the [Low C. SktrroK. Thefts were fome of them difperfed the night before at the printing-houfe, and now by the refpondent, who diftributed them in his feat. After that he made a Latin prayer, and read the beginning of his Thefts. Immediately an opponent, firft craving leave of the profeflor, ar¬ gued againft them. After him two more earneftly contended who fhould oppofe next, till the profeflor commanded one of them to be fllent. "When three oppo¬ nents had done difputing, the refpondent concluded with another prayer, and then thank’d the company for their prefence and patience. The opponents were not taken off, but of their own accord pafs’d from one argument to another •, and when they had done, they gave the pro- feflor thanks for the favour and leave. The opponents fit in no certain feat, but any where among the auditors. If any profeflor of the univerfity comes in during the deputation, the beadle brings him to his feat; and when all is done, he at¬ tends the profeflor of the chair and the refpondent no further than the fchool gate. The am- We law the anatomy-theatre, which is tomytkea- no t f Q handfome as that at London , but furnifh'd with a great many curious things, viz. variety of skeletons •, Sciurus Hepar Virginis iy annorum-, Scarabaus cor- niculatus ex Ind. Orient. Sceleton infantis d matre in ipfo partu enecati ; Brechma in in- fantibus Tatou -, Larus S. eene Meuwe oft Zeekoute -, Ifidis effigie infignitus cippus five operculum loculi Adgyptiam Mumiam vetu- fiijfi continent ; Ventriculus & univerfa in- teftinorum fiftula -, Mumice Varies fungus lapideus ; Lapis ceraunia Caput porci flu- viatilis ex Braflea -, Ala Hirundinis ma¬ rina ex Oceano Orientali ; Cirrus Gammari /Ethiopia ; Thus foftile Moravicum \ Cap- fula Chinenfis cum capite animalis partim cervinam, partim porcinam naturam repre- fentante ex infula Celebes India Orientalis Niduli cruftacei ex cautibus regni Jehova , ef a Sinenfibus &c. in deliciis habentitr -, Fo¬ lium Betle five Siri ; Faba ALgypiia five Bo- namicie -, elephants skulls ; horfes, cows, dogs, bears, &c. skeletons; Guandur formicas vorans ; Myrenceter , which is bigger than an otter, having a long fnout, long crooked claws, coarfe briftly hair, and a long brufh tail, with hairs as fluff" as a hog’s-, Gralla five Calopodia Norvegica •, the picture of a man that fwallow’d a knife ; fkins of men and other animals *, the fkin of a Tartarian prince executed here for ravifhing his After ; a Polyedr. figure over all thefe rarities, and a great many more, and on the Aides of it are pyramids of different fizes i a fifh with two feet, a broad and round tail, the skin black, and bill fliarp ’, Caprifcus Rondeletii , having four teeth and fpince like a porcupine ; the skeleton of a man on the back of the skeleton of a horfe, having piftols before him : the horfe had teeth very great in the lower jaw, two diredtly forwards, between which, two others bended over quite up, and on each fide without, one that bended alfo up, but not fo high ; a pelican, white all over, being as big as a heron •, Lampas fepulchr. Rom. eruta in agro Leydenf ; pri¬ nt a & fecunda Vertebra colli Rhinocer. the skeleton of an oftrich -, two letters written in the China language Ifidis effigies -, Ti¬ gris capta in regno Jacave the skeleton of a frog and a hedghog. Under the thea¬ tre lies a great skeleton of a fifli we guefs’d to be a whale. We obferv’d in it nine ribs, 39 Vertebra, four great bones in the upper jaw, two of which make the Mandibulum fuperius -, and between them are two other bones that are fliarp: in the lower mandible are great crooked bones bigger than thofe in the upper. The Scapula are like thofe in quadrupeds. See Hegenitius his Itin. who enumerates more particulars. The Englifh church is underneath the An En g- publick library, which is joyn’d to the ^ churcbi theatre, but is very indifferently furnifh’d with books ; and thefe that were there, not in order, nor well kept. Thefe three places make together a handfome build¬ ing. Over the ftreet gate is written, Porta ingrejfus ad Bibliothecam & Anatomiam An. 1648. At Leyden we vifited Mr. Newcomen , minifter of the Englifh congregation, who told us, The ftates allow him about 75 /. per annum ; but they promifed him to bear all his charges of removing out of England. He went with us to the pub- lick library. In the middle of it is a Jlf k fft ra long table made ftielving on each fide to ^ lay books on. The books are ranked under thefe heads: Theologi , Jurifperiti , Medici , Hijlorici, Literaiores , Philofophi , Mathematici. Here are preferv’d the manufcripts of Jofeph Scaliger , Bonaven- tura , Vulcanius , &c. alfo the oriental books which Gvlius the profeflor brought out of the eaftern parts at the expence of the publick. Round about the room hang the pidtures of prince William , prince Maurice , Erafmus , Fr. Junius, J. Lip- fius , Job. licitmius, Dan. Heinfius, Bona- ventura, Vulcanius , Job. Doufa Bibliothe- carius , Janus Doufa Pater Academ. Cura¬ tor, Jofephus JuJlus Jul. Caf. F. Scaliger Adtatis lxiiii : Anno Chrifti mdciiii. Eps. Roffenfis, and others. We vifited Dr. Van Horne , the pro- Dr. Van fefibr of anatomy, who entertain’d us 1 | orne . with Low Ihe lurg. C. 1 Low-Countries, Germany, \td\y.cmd France. 401 with great kindnefs and civility, and jfhew’d us a skeleton curioufly whitened, and fet exactly together by his own hand ; a very thick skull of a footman ; many skeletons of embryo’s, wherein were clearly difeern’d the disjunctions of bones, which are afterwards not to be obferved, the intermediate cartilages hardening into bone. Another large skeleton of a man, cu¬ rioufly coloured with black and white. The white flgnifles the infertion of a mufcle, and figures and characters are plac’d where every mufcle ran •, an exaCt and curious fcheme of all the Vafa in the lungs, and two fchemes of thole in the liver, one of which is like that in Dr. GliJJon de Hepate •, the mufcles of the hand preferv’d like Mon( 5 cur dc Bils his bodies, which Van Horne elteemed not much of: by the fame art, he faid, he hath preferved the Inlejlina in fitu. A fcheme of the fpermatick veins, iejtes , &c. the bones found in the glandula pi- nealis of men, which were very fmall •, the Labyrinthus, Cochlea , tympanum. Mal¬ leus, Incus Stapes , being the inftru- ments of hearing ; two books with figures of the feveral members of a man, ex- preffing in colours the true figures of the mufcles, £sV. which were drawn by his own direction •, the bones of the ear in a child, which differ little from thofe in a man ; the Vertebra of a fetus, which ma- nifeftly confift of three bones. Dr. Van Horne told us his opinion, That the blood returns not by veins into the fpleen, but transfufes itfelf thro’ the parenchyma of the fpleen, and at laft enters the paffage of the Vena Splenica , the Fib rill a lerving only for fupport. He faid, he could never obferve any Anajlomofes between veins and arteries, but between the branches of feveral veins. We went to the burg deferibed in Meurf Ath. Batavia. It is a round hill, having a high wall about the top of it, from whence we had a profpeCt of a great part of the town. In the middle, upon the top, is a labyrinth of narrow walks, and a well here, wherein, they fay, filh were found that did relieve the city when it was befieged. Over the gate of the burg (which had a pleafant afeent by ftone Iteps curioufly fhaded with an arbour) is this written, Arcem hanc cum fundo Vetujlijfimam iliujlrijjimae gentis Wajftnariae haeredum cum Burgravii Titulo omniq ; jure ei annexe a Principe Lignaeo Wajftnariae Domino xv Kalend. Maii Anni cidiocli in jus SPff Leyden/is Aire Civ it at is public a, VOL. vi. Franflatum Hdc infiriptione Vrbis Cog. Guil. Paedis. Paul Swanenjureh. Jac. Vandenberch. Corn. Buy levert Publice teftatum voluerv.nl Anno Domini cioiocliii. Burgi Profopopoeia. Arx ego Bellonae bifido circtmflua Rbeno Wafnarac fueram gloria prima da¬ mns. 1203. Arx invicla fame viilam nifi fata referret Cum tut am noftro feparat Ada finu. 1204. Poft in Vicinos nimis imperiofa penates Hollando Cogor fubdere collajugo. Fjuodq-, olim in Cives fueram , jure exuor omni Cum lupulo & Gratis nuda reliV.a meis. 1651. feuae nunc jura fuo cum vindicet aere Senatus. Illius arbitrio me quoq-, trado lubens. Leyda fupervacuos alii mercentur ho¬ nor es Tu fa pis & cives quo tu saris emit. 1658. Nigh this burg is a fair large church, church of a cathedral building, having long and great wings. Here is this epitaph on a monument s Pii Nepotes Hoc Avo marmor fuo pofuere Petro Had i- ani Wervio qui multa cbivit pro falute patria pericula , quern Leyda Vidit con¬ fident bis fix ties, bis ordines Hollandia dignum fui membrum Senatus cujus hoc conftantia debet fub ejus Confulatu civitas obfejfa bis quod Caniabrum, peftem , fa- mem, tumultuanti Cive , plebe , miltle do¬ nee fuit filuta fortiter tulit. Natus eft Leyda cioioxxix. denatus Anno cioiociv. Uxorem habuit Mariam Dyijfa Voorhout. Another monument of one of the houfe otNaffau, colonel of a Walloon regiment, admiral of Zealand , 18 years general of Holland and Weft-Frifiland, &c. 25 years governor of Bredah j he died 26 Jun. 1631. VEtatis 72. 5 K OP SkirroN. A Journey thro' Part of the [Low C. 402 Skippon. OJfa Baronis Radiflai d Wehynitz & Tet- tau ; chut Anno 1660. 26 Jun. Alt. 72. This man fee the crown upon the prince Palatine's head when he was crowned king of Bohemia. Colleges. Two colleges in Leyden built by the ftates, one for the maintenance of poor French ftudents, the other for poor Ger¬ mans. The Dutch college is fomewhat like thofe at Lovain , where there is this in- feribed over the gate. Anno cioiocxxv Collegium Pheologorum illufir. Ord. Hollandice if Wefifrifue. And this diftich, Sacra Deo Domns hae fiudiifq •, dicat a juventae Nemo facrum violet dedecoretve locum. Alfo this written on one fide of it, viz. S. P. J^. Amflelredamenfts Sibi & fuis in collegio Fheologico F. C. An. mdc. Ill Viri Collegii literarii quod eft Delft con- fenfu CojJ. ejus urbis hanc fuis in collegio hocce Theclogico alumnis Domum F. C. Anno d Nato Chrifto cidiocxvi. The ftudents are governed by Prce- fedti , and have lectures read to them every day. Theprifon. The prifon is a fair building. In a little yard by it ftand two pillars, over which they lay a beam whereon they execute malefactors, who are (after they are dead) removed, and hung on a gal¬ lows without the walls, where the bodies remain till they are confumed. The hofpi- There are three fair hofpitals; one of tals - them is for fick perfons, who are very carefully look’d after, and vifited often by the phyfician, who brings with him ftudents to inftruCt them in the practice of medicine. Another hofpital is for youths, who are habited in red. Twenty-feven alms-houfes. The flaJt- The ftadthoufe is a handfome building. h°uf e . Q n t h e tower 0 f every night, is a trumpeter that founds every hour; and when any fire happens, he founds an alarm. A guard is kept here every night of 30 foldiers, and at every gate are 10 foldiers. Every hour of the night a fellow goes up and down the ftreets, and makes a noile with a rapper, and with a loud voice tells what it is o’clock. The prince of Orange hath a palace here, an indifferent building, not far from the fchools. The clothiers hall is a handfome neat clothiers ftruclure, adorned with figures of fheeps cloathing, being one of the chief trades of Ley deft. Grograms are made here. The ftreets are large, fairly built, and neatly pav’d, channels of water running thro’ the midft of meft of them. The houfes here (as in moft Other cities of Holland ) are cover’d with gutter-tiles, and the roofs are made very hoping, purpofely that the rain-water may the better fall into a channel or trough which conveys it into a ciftern, where it is kept for ufe. Very winding entrances at the city- gntes ; a large trench round the wall, and another trench within, at that part of the town where the new buildings are, which are many, and are moft of them inhabited by weavers. A pall-mall, and pleafant walks of tiliaor lime-trees, with¬ out the walls. Sledges are us’d here, and little carts with a long beam, drawn by one or two men, and crowded by another behind. The arms of Leyden are two crofs- keys. Many ftudents live up and down in pri¬ vate lodmno-s, who wear no gowns. When they are admitted to be of the univerfity, the Reft or Magnificus gives them a feal, which excufes all payments of excife. The profeffors have each of them about 300 l. fterling per annum. If any ftudent defires to have leClures read to him in private, he goes to a profeffor, who runs thro’ a whole faculty, which is call’d Col¬ legium inftituere •, for this a gratuity mult be given. Any one that takes a degree, makes his own Thefes , and is to defend them againft ail opponents. Other dif- putations are upon fhefes made by the profeffors, who compile a whole body of divinity, philofophy, &c. The reefer is chofen every year out cf the profeffors. The curators are like our chancellor in Cambridge. Liberalium Artium Magi/tri if Do£lores y are the only degrees taken here. L.A. Mag. are ftridtly examined. Two vacations in a year in this uni¬ verfity •, one in the fpring the other for 40 days in the l'ummer, about the dog- days. All the minifters are free from excife. Whilft we ftay’d at Leyden , we hired The mak- a waggon which carry’d us thro’ feveral country villages fituated in a fenny moorifh foil, where we obferv’d the great induftry of the people in the making of turt. They fifh up mud from the bottom of the Low. C] i ^ow-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, ^03 the channels of water (which are clear’d by thefe means) with a net at the end of a pole, and load large boats with it, and then fcoop it out upon an even piece of ground, to a competent thicknefs, and flat it; fo it lies till it is almoft dry, and then either men or women, having boards faftened to the foies of their fhoes (which keep their feet from finking in) divide all the mud with a kind of a fpade, into long fquare turfs like bricks, and then fet them up in long ranks to be further dry’d : at laft they houfe them in thatch’d barns, the fides whereof are not clos’d up with a waif but made of wooden broad bars, equally diftanced one above another, that the turfs may lie upon them to be fully dry’d. Moft of the houfes the country people hereabouts live in, are thatch’d with reeds, and almod every one hath a bridge which may be turn’d on one fide towards the houfe when any boats pafs. Seven- Four leagues from Leyden we came to huyfen. Sevenhuyfen , a village (where we lay this night, being the 5th of June) confiding of a drait pav’d dreet, with fmall houfes thatch’d with reeds. It is under the juril- didtion of Rotterdam , and is govern’d by a fcout, feven magiftrates, and a fecre- tary, and hath a publick mefienger to fend upon any occafion, as other places have. At this place we went in a boat to a mod pleafant wood, well deferib’d in He - genitii Itiner. and fawa multitude of Schol- fers , i. e. Graculi palmiped ; Lepelaers , i. e. Platea \ Quacks, i. e. Ardea minor ; Regers , i. e. Ardea which birds have their neds upon trees in feveral didinct quarters of the wood. Ravens, wood-pigeons, and turtle-doves build alfo their neds here. They lhake down their young ones by a hook faden’d to a long pole. The baron of Pelemberg , who lives at Lovain * lets out the profits of thefe birds, and the grafs, at 3000 gilders per annum. Harlem June 6. In the afternoon we went by boat in four hours from Leyden to Harlem , which is a pleafant city, wall’d and trench’d about, having channels of water run¬ ning thro’ many of the dreets. The market-place is handfome, and the dreets Snit are well built. The ftadthoufe hath a f. ou r r large room or hall, where are pictures of princes, &c. Over the door is written, S. P. Q.H. Hanc facram Tbemidos Domum Senatus Sedem tie temerato Civis unquam Anno 1630. The prince of Orange's court or pa- c ■ ’rox. lace is near the dadthoufe, where we law many good pi6lures, viz. an altar-piece q... reprdentingtheflaughterof theinnocents; palace. the middle part of it was painted lately by one Cornel. Harlemenfis , the wings or fhuts of the picture by Martin Hemskerke: a map of the NaJJovian family •, a curious pidhire once bought at the Hague for feven pence ; the picture of fome knights of Jerufalem. The garden belonging to this palace is well furnifhed with curious flowers, and a fummer-room at the end of it, where there is a fpecutum of 3 5 glaf- fes. At this place we law the picture of Laurentius Cojlerus in a furred gown, holding the letter A in his hand, and this inlcription, M. S. Viro Confulari Laurentio Cojlero Harlemenfi Alteri Cadmo Et artis 'Typographies MCCCCXXXX Inventori Prime. His fiatue and the infeription men¬ tion’d in Hegenitius , were lately removed from hence. It is reported, the firfl book that ever was printed, is kept under lock and key by the magidrate. Many little figures of birds in feveral places of the garden •, and in an old cloi- der is a Dutch infeription, fignifying the monument of a man 121 years old when he died, who married a woman of 22 years of age when he was 111, and had one child, a daughter, by her, that died in the Carthuftan convent at Amjlerdam. The old man’s name was Dirck Janfen Blefer. The butchery is very handfome, being Butchery. the fird publick building we obferved to be leaded fince we left England. We faw one of the hofpitals, a very n fair building, having a neat court within, and obferved many women, boys, and girls clad in blue coats, with one fleeve red and the other green, and fome only with one fleeve red and green dockings. The great church is large, having three organs in it. The monuments are not confiderable. A fair new church in this city. The gates are handlomely built of done. Wc [Low C. 4°4 y/ Journey thro 5 Part of the Swippon. We obferved a great fifh-market round Weavers. A mfter- dam. Tbepajfart boats i/i Holland. The ficult- htufe. the great church. A large hog-market. We vifited the weavers of holland, tiffany, camlet, damask, (at the damask weavers we law a very rich table cloth, having the Englijh arms, and many curious figures in it •, it hath been three years making for the prince of Orange) diaper, fi’k damask, tape, velvet, and faw the preiTing of fluffs, &c. whereby a glofs is given. A Gyrnnafum at Harlem. Without the walls towards Leyden are very pleafant groves. About an hour’s walk brought us to the fandy hills, where we could find no new plants, but only obferved the ruflies to grow in a quincuncial order. Thefe fandy hills occupy a large fpace of ground, and run along the Holland fhore, being counted a great fence againft the fea. From them we had a profpclt of Harlem , and could difcern Amsterdam , and .the adjacent country. June 8, in the evening we took places in a boat, and after an hour we removed into another, palling by two great meres, and in another hour came to Arnfierdam •, before we entred it we went over two draw¬ bridges, and pafs’d by two armed centinels, one that flood within and another without the gate. Moft people travel by water in Hollctftd, in boats which are boarded over, and co¬ ver’d with a pitch’d canvas, whereon are fprinkled pieces of cockle-fhells. There is a fix’d rate fet upon all thele boats by the magiftrates, who do appoint com- miffaries to fee how many paffengers go in them every time •, the magiftrates receive all the money, out of which they pay the boatmen or fkippers a certain ftipend i the boat and horfes, &c. belonging to the magiftrates. If any one pafienger deftres to be carried off without delay, he muft pay the freight of the whole to the com- miffary. Every time a boat goes off a bell is rung by the commiffary. At fome cities the boats go off every hour. Thefirft building of note we vifited in Amjlerdam was the ftadthoufe, a very magnificent ftruCture, being large and high, the outfide of the walls is of free- ftone, but the infide is filled up with bricks. Upon the afceat to the ftadthoufe Hand always two foldiers in a ready pofture, and within is a guard. On one fide is this infcription, viz. IV Kal. Nov. cididcxlviii. £Ao compofitum eft helium Quod Fcsderati inf. German. Populi cum tribus Philippis Poientifftmis Hifpaniarum Regibus terra mariq •, per Omnes fere Orbis oras ultra Oftoginta annos fortiter Gefferunt ajferta Patrick Libertate & Religions Aufpiciis Cojf. P acificatorum optimorum Gerb. Pancraf Jac. de Graef Sib. Valckenier. Pet. Schaep. Confulum filii & agnati Jafto primo fundamenti Lapide banc Curiam Fundarunt. A court of juftice here having brafs gates; within it Solomon’ s juftice, &c. is defcribed in marble figures, over the feats of the fcout and the nine fcabini, who try malefaCtors that are always brought within the brafs gates; the fcout condemns them, and the.reads the fentence. Above are two chambers which have four great windows that look into this court of juftice, where the four burgo- mafters ftand (one at each window) and hear the judicial proceedings. On the gates is written this verfe, Difcite juftitiam moniti U non temners Dtvos. An area or void fpace before this ftadt¬ houfe, and another building (where there is a fentinel) ufed by the merchants to weigh their goods in. Behind this court is a handfome afcent which brings up into a fair hall curioufi'y adorned with marble work ; at each end is a ftatue, viz. Of Antwerp , &c. The four elements are well defcribed in the pavement of this hall ; alfo two hemi- Thepave- lpheres of the terreftrial globe exadlly done between a projection of the coeleftial ^ ' fphere, wherein every figure of the con- ftellations, £sfc. was reprefented from the north pole to the tropic of capricorn. On each fide of the hall is a little court, and about them {lately arch’d walks even with the hall floor, fair pictures at the ends made by John Lieuens of this city, and one Jordaenes of Antwerp \ all the walls that were finifhed were covered with mar¬ ble, divided into large panes by cu- rioufly-wrought fquare piilafters. Over the doors of feveral rooms are written, Scbepenen Kamer, Juftitie Kamer. Burgo-maft'ers. Burgo-mafters Vertrecke. Tbefaurie Ordinaris. Secretarii. Fbefauric Extraordinaris. Com. Low C] Com. confcience. Schepenen Extraordinary. Reken Kamer. Defolate Boedels Kamer ; i. e. Court that adminifters goods of fuch as die in debt, (Ac. Affurantie Kamer. JVees Kamer ; i. e. Court of orphans. Raedt Kamer ; i. e. Council chamber. Com. Van Huwelyck jnken en injurien ; i. e. Court for differences between man and wife. CommiJJariJfcn Vander Zee faken. Kamer der Roedragen boden j i. e. Ser¬ jeants chamber. All which chamber^ are fair *, where the Vroetfchap fit is a canopy over all their feats; among the pictures is one of the old Had thou fe, burnt down in three hours time 7 June , 1651. Below flairs are many arched walks, and a dungeon. One Quelinus is the architedl of this place. It is faid the foun¬ dation coll 1 ©0000/. The s „. Amfterdam hath four burgomaflers, nine verament, efchevins, and 36 of the Vroetfchap , and a fcout. ( AJuarftor.) The Scabini are thus chofen, 14 perfons are elected by the Vroetfchap , and out of the 14 the burgo¬ maflers take feven, and two more out of the efchevins of the lafl year •, thefe are judges in all cafes. The Vroetfchap continue for life, and when one dies the reft vote another into his place, but never any nigh related to any of the Vroetfchap , neither fon, brother, (Ac. till beyond the coufin german. See Grot. Apologet. c. 9. where is mentioned this government fettled by law, by Maria Burgnnd. 1476. All that have been efchevins can only chufe the burgomaflers. None formerly could have been burgo- mafter except his father was a freeman at leaft a year, and fix weeks before he was born *, but of late they have made a con- ftitution, that he that pays 500 gilders fhall be free, and feven years after is capa¬ ble of being burgomafter. Any one may be alfo privileged as a ci¬ tizen for 50 gilders, but then fhall not have the capacity of being made a burgo¬ mafter. 7 be convoy The convoy houfe, or admiralty, is a houfe. handfome building with fair rooms in it. Hoftitals. Over the doors of the feveral hofpitals are written, T’mannen buys. T’Vrowen Gajlhuis. 1 foldatenhuis. Hen Ottwde Mannen Gajlhuis. Het oude Vrowen Gajl¬ huis. 116 women in the old womens ho- fpital, two lodge in every chamber ; and in the old mens hofpital two men alfo in a Vol. VI. chamber. Thefe two hofpitals make aS*;ipi>o.v fquare cloifter, the men and the women have each their dining hall, and both fexes employ their time in feveral works. All the hofpitals are neatly kept, the ftck people lie in cabins on each fide of a fair walk, and in the middle is a pulpit where their minifter preaches to them. The Rafpelhuis for rogues hath over the The rape!. entrance written Caftigatio ; here fome men hills f or of better quality are kept more private ro Z ues - from the view of all comers. The Rafpelhuis for whores, (Ac. the rafpel- common whores in one part, thofe of better fort in another, and in a third di- vifion are diforderly women that are kept more private, being put in by their parents. Many children habited half black and half red, who diet and lodge at the hofpi¬ tal, but work the reft of their time at feveral trades under feveral mailers. The eleemofynary houfes are fair build- Aim:.. ings. houfes. Het Dolhuis is an hofpital for mad peo- T> 0 ih H \s. pie, who are lock’d up in dark rooms, having a hole in the door to look out at; a pretty garden in the middle of the cloifter. Another court, where are kept the maddeft folks. The Exchange is like ours at London , The ex- hut not fo handfome, and it is not an exadl change. fquare, being longer than it is broad here; are 36 niches, but not ftatues in them. Here we alfo took notice of feveral maps of houfes to be fold, which were hung up and down the pillars, (Ac. Men of feveral nations refort hither, but the mod frequent ftrangers are the Jews, who fill one walk Jews. of the Exchange , and live in one quarter of the city together, in fair ftreets, they are reckoned to be about 20000 ■, they often¬ times meet with affronts in the ftreets, and lofe much time in their publick traffiek, viz. from feven in the evening on Fridays , all Saturday and Sunday. We went to their fynagogue, a large Their f jn a- place above flairs; the women are not feen gogut. in it, but have a gallery round the top with lattice windows •, they wear no fuch fluff" ("like a Scotch plad) as the men do over their faces, and hats which they never pull off" in their fynagogue. He that reads ftands in a great defk, and makes a tone in his reading; the people alfo read either in the Hebrew or Portugueje bible in a finging tone ; fome men that were mar¬ ried the day before came to the reader, and fpokc fomething to him which our interpreter faid was what they gave to the poor, which he prefently publiffied : Their law, and fome parts of the old teftament were folded up in rolls, within an embroi¬ dered covering, the tops of the umbilicus or flick they roll’d them on, were cover’d 6 L with. Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 405 Vati Kleine Saken s i. e. Court of A Journey thro’ Part of the [Low C. SKirroN. with filver, and had filver bells hanging at them •, the bridegrooms came from that end of the fynagogue where they are lock’d up in preffes, and brought them feverally to the reader’s feat, where they were untied, and all this while there was great finging among the people j then the reader or rabbi read fomewhat, and the bridegrooms return’d to their places. To- wards the latter end of their lervice, the reader and all the bridegrooms went round to fhew themfelves, with the law, ifc. untied in their hands, and the boys were very earned: to touch the covering with their hands and faces, and all this time the whole company made loud fingings*, when they came to the preffes they put in the law, ifc. and then one faid fomewhat in a tone, and lock’d them up. The rabbi, while he was reading, had a little filver rod in his hand •, at one time, for a good while, read at a table. This de¬ votion was begun early in the morning, and lafted till noon after dinner they be¬ gan again. We obferved fome of the Jews to bow at times, ( quer . whether at the name of Jehovah ?) they feemed very carelefs, difcourfing and laughing with llrangersin the midftof the fervice ; when they were difmifled, many of them went down finging till they came to the ftreet. The minifteror prieft hath his feat under the reader. The bride was attended only by wo¬ men. Maids wear their own hair, but after marriage they cut it off and wear locks. On the Jews fibbath ( Saturday ) the fame thing is read Even times over toge- gether for every day of the week. Lamps hang up in this fynagogue. Every Jew wears within his breeches or doublet a fquare piece of parchment with a Hebrew benediftion in it, &c. It is of this figure, with a circle about two trian¬ gles, having at each corner the name of an angel, viz. Michael , Gabriel , Raphael and Uriel. At their .... they cover themfelves •, within their fynagogues hang little firings in which is woven the word Jehovah. The men are mofl of them of a tawny completion with black hair •, fome have clearer fkins, and are fcarce difcernable from the Dutch , ifc. They carry much perfume about them. Amfterdam allows them great freedom, fome of them are rich, but moft are very poor. In one of their houfes we faw a paft-board model of Solomon’ s temple, the priefls offering facrifice, ifc. The new church is a fair building•, at Them* the weft-end is a ftately organ fupported l; irk. by marble pillars, the entrance into the choir is of brafs. Here is a handfome monument infcribed thus: Genercfiff. Heroi Johanni a Galen Ejjenft Qui ob res fortiter if feliciter geflas , fexies uno anno , Dunkerkanorum prcedatorum navem captam if a Barbaris opima fpolia report at a, Ordinum ClaJJi in mart Me Al¬ ter raneo Prcefettus, memorabili prcelio ad Livornam , Deo Auxiliante , Anglorum na- vibus captis , fugatis, incendio if ftubmer- fione deletis, commcrcium cum ditii marts accolis rejlituit , I dibus Mart. Anno cioiocLin, if altero pede truncatuSy nono diepoft Vittoriam , annos natus x l v 111 obiit, lit in Secula per gloriam viveret II- luftriff. if Prcepot. Foederati Be/gii Ordi¬ num decreto , Nob. if pot. Senatus Archi- thalaff. qui eft Amttelodami M. II. P. In this church we faw two men carrying fwords before two women. We faw in this city a tragedy called Ta¬ merlane well afted in a convenient play- houfe ; in the cockpit the ordinary peo¬ ple ftand for four-pence apiece ; places in the boxes are ten-pence a place. The aftors cloaths were very rich, and habited like the nations they reprefented, the commanders of armies were on real horfes. Between every aft the mufick played, and after all the tragedy was ended, began a farce or ridiculous aftings and jeftings. Thefe comedians are two days in the week at this city, and two days at the Hague , being allowed by the ftate ; part of what is received the poor have. The Athenaeum or Gymnaftum hath a The Gym- large fchool, where we heard Klenckius naiium. read Logic to a very fmall auditory. The names of the profeffors, and the times of reading in the fummer, are, 1. D. Gerardus Leon. Blofms M. D. Frofejfors. &c. hord oftava. 2. D. Arnoldus Senguerdius L. A. M. Phyf. Prof, primarius, die Lunce , Martis y Jovis if Veneris , hord nond. 3. D. Janus Klenckius L. A. M. Eques Odeffenii Dns. Phil. Prof. Logicam doce- bity hord decimd, This perfon was knighted Low C.~] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 407 knighted by king Charles II. and one Da- vifbn a Scotchman married his filler. 4. D. Johannes Chrijlienius IVD. & Prof, die Lunce , Martis , Jovis & Veneris Jurifp. docebit , bora undecima. 5. D. Robertas Keuchenius IVD. Elo¬ quently Prof, die Lunce & Martis , Jufti- num ; Jovis & Veneris Riorum Interpr. hord duodecimd. 6 . D. Alexander de Bie, L. A. M. Mathefeos Prof, die Luna •, Martis , Jovis & Veneris , hord tertid, pofi meridiem. Aphjfuk We faw the phyfick garden, neatly gmkn. kept, and well ftored with rare plants. It is without the walls near the beall- market, which is a large place fet with many ranks of trees;, In this city are two labyrinth gardens, where drink, &c. is fold * in the middle of yards belonging to them are llatues, out of which water is l'urprizingly forced. Over a fchool gate is written, Difcipiina Vitce Scipio. From the old kirk fleeple we had a large profpefl of the city and river where fhips lie, which hardly exceed in number thofe in the 1 Thames about London. Two organs in this church, and fome of the painted windows are flill preferved ; at this lleeple we faw one play on the chimes, (fomewhat like the organills) but he ufed his feet as well as fingers, which had thick pieces of leather to defend them from hurt in playing with a great force. One Solomon Verbeake lives near this church, who hath invented a new kind of mufical inllrument, which he fells for 80 gilders. Glauber the chymifl lives in Amjlerdam, but being now very fick, we could not fee him. The mag*- The magazine is a fair, large and new xine. building, where the flores for war are kept from the fight of flrangers •, many of the fhips of war lie near it. The long-houfe, where they make ca¬ bles, is nigh the new wall which compaffes in a great fpace of ground that is defigned for new flreets. In Amsterdam are 24 minifters penfioned by the magiftrates. Two Here are two Englifh churches, one of Englifh which belongs to the Brownifts. churches. The Lutherans have alfo a church, and the Papifts are tolerated. If any are permitted to have their liberty of confcience in churches, and are not of the ftates religion, they are prohibited to credl fleeples and the ufe of bells. Many of the flreets in this city are fpa- cious and fairly built, having channels of water with rows of trees planted on each fide. The foundations of the houfes ufually Skippon. cofl as much as the fuper-ftru£lure, be- caufe they build on piles of wood which are driven in a great depth into the oufy ground. Moll of the befl houfes belong to mer¬ chants, who have great irons that fence the lower windows from the violence of weighty commodities which are haled up to the upper rooms. No coaches are fuffered to be ufed here except fuch as come for a vifit from abroad ; but inflead of them fedans al- mofl as big as coaches are drawn upon fledges by horfes. Mr. Chapman was my Englifh merchant here; and I had recommendations to one fignior Parenzi , an Italian , and one Tie- lens, a Dutchman. Darns and one Thierry were merchants to the reft of the com¬ pany. June 16, at feven hours diftance from Utrecht. Amjlerdam we came by boat to Utrecht , a large city, having about it a thick and high wall, and a deep trench ; fome of the flreets which are latelier built are fair and handfome, the reft are but indiffe¬ rent. Deep channels of water run thro’ many of the flreets, which lie much higher than the water ; feveral poor houfes which have their chimneys peeping up a little above the level of the flreets, which are fometimes much annoyed by thedmoak of thofe chimneys. The earl of Zylichim , uncle to the prince one Eng- of Orange , is governor of the garrifon, com - which confifts of eight companies ; one of V them is Englifh , who have a church here an Englifh dedicated to S. Mary. church. The city is ruled by an upper and an The go- under fcout, feven fcabini and four burgo- vernment. mailers, two of which are chofen yearly. The hofpital boys are clad in fuits half white and half blue. Near the Domo , or cathedral church, u n \ ver p tj . are three fides of an old cloifter, where the fchools are for univerfity exercifes ; the mathematic and phyfic fchools are fair and arched, the divinity is a handfome fmall room above flairs, where we heard part of a theological difputation, Voetius fitting profeffor j we were told that he that keeps an exercife fine Prcefidio , is to defend his Thefes againft all opponents. The Rettor Magnificus is chofen every year out of the profeffors. One Will. Barbor an Englifh man was now ready to take his do< 5 lor of phyfick’s degree, and to be created dodlor by Re¬ gius the phyfician in the choir of the great church. Collegium A Journey thro'Tart of the [io^C Skuton. Collegium Willebordi was written on one houfe of this city. On an almfhoule was written, Ailemo- fyncr ende Ambacht Kamer. st. Mar- The Domo is dedicated to S. Marlin, tm ’ 1 , having handfome pillars; the pulpit ftands cly.in.). j u fl. at t j ie encrance n nt;0 c he choir •, an organ here ; we went up 460 fteps to the top of the lteeple (where there is a large cittern of water ready to quench fire) whence we had a view of the town and adjacent country ; in this fteeple lives a man with his wife and family. ,v. Mary’; j n 5. Mary* s church that the Engli/h rh " ri} ufe, I tranfcribed thefe infcriptions, ifi<> viz. Ilivftri Viro Theodorico de Benthem D. D. DoCl. bt'.jus Ecdefies Prespofito & Archi- diacono, Qui e vivis excefferat anno mccccxv. Cal. OCtob. xvi. pia pofte- ritas pofuit. And on a pidture was written, Vive bofpes dum licet at ay. Vale. In thefe verfes is exprefied a remarkable ftory, Origo Fundati templi. Tempora cum caufis templi venerabilis bujus Quifquis no fife cupis metra te fubfcripta doce- bunt . Henrico quarto Romani Sceptra regente Imperii, cum jam tot am viStricibus armis Subderat Italiam foli prcscludere fiola. Urbs Mediolanum portas eft aufa rebelles am tandem captam fpoliis prius and us opimis Everfit Vidor, nec te?nplo fiamma Maries Virginis abfiinuit candenti marmore firudo Unde dolcns, mentemq-, pio fuccenfus amove Infiaurare novam venerandi nominis esdem Propofuit quocunq-, fiolo folifve fiub axe. Tunc Trajedenfis Presful Nutritius olim Principis id duris Jemper comes acer in armis Nomine Conradus tulit ho: d Cesfare munus Ut templum fublime loco fundaret in i(lo Turribus excelfis conftrudurdq-, perenni Adjutus donis id multo Cesfaris auro Quale vides firmis fubnixum dare columnis Fornice perpetuo fafiigia fiumma tegente Hoc phanum Presful venerabilis ipfe dicavit Primus id inftaurat Presbendos Canonicofq-, Canturos laudes tibi Virgo Maria perennes. Pojl ubi Sacrati ter fex ab origine templi Fluxiffent anni, fatalis venerat bora Pontificis Sacri miferanda cesde perempti Caufa necis fuit hesc , nam dum fundamina Muro Iftius Eccleficc latomi perqnirere tentant Invenere lutum fluidum fixo fine fundo Hocvitium tardabat opus, nemo fapientim, Huic morbo valuit quantalibet arte mederi Ars mendicat opem miratur nefcius artis Artificum Cactus, non artem pojje juvar Dum fic ergo rei fpes effet mdla Juperfies En rudis banc Frifo folidam fpopondit Abyj ?>: Pro quo dum precium fibi pofceret ivno- deratum Hinc diledttts erat Adolefcens Filius \ ilk Accerfit Prxfitl fecrete, fiuadet ut artev Eliciat Patri, promitt it munera, patrei Filius auxilio genetricis inebriat, artem Elicit, elicit am Pajlori, clam pat re, pa Continue furgebat opus, jam tempore Ion Pofi pofitum , Gaudent omnes fiupra rte reperta. Ille fed irarum fiimulis agitatus acceri Deccptumq-, dolo, tantus dolor urget ut ifurn Jam defeendentan gradibus, miffa celebrla Pontificem ferro trux Frifo necaret acul Ejus in Aprili mortem dant fefia Tybur, Anno millefimo nonagefimo quoq-, nono. Baldwins s Eps. On a pillar of this church is the picure of a bull, and underneath this writte, Accipe pofteritas qttod per ttia fecula nobs faurinis Cntibus fundo folidata column ft. A little grave-ftone here, with the hure of a child kill’d by his father. On a monument is inferibed, Arnoldus Dorftenius Pbilofi i? Gramiati• cus percelebris httjus phani Canaicus tandem requiem fortitus in eevui btc Citus eft , non is Mali 1535. This church hath an organ in it, nd a gallery over each ifle as at the Jefius in Antwerp. Twenty feven bear the ame flill of canons, who have a revene in land, iftc. Any perfon may buy oe of thefe places, but if he dies within 21 days after, the fale fignifies nothing, "wo minifters were banifhed hence for quoion- ing the right of difpofing them int- lay- hands. In the chapter-houfe is an elepant’s tooth made hollow, which was fonerly ufed as a horn to wind and call peo ie to church. A picture of Henry IV. tw brafs idols with wings, named by the dlow that fhewed them Jupiter and Pluto. The pidture of our Saviour going to the place of crucifixion drawn by Lucas of j.yden. The old MSS. of the revenues are i>cked up in a great preis; three long ureorns horns for which 30000 gilders hav been offered formerly they were ufed 3 can- dlefticks nigh the high altar. In ne li¬ brary are many old books chaine fix large MSS. of the bible fairly mrten and painted by one man ; on the cor of Low Anna Ma¬ ria Schur- nran. A fhyf.ck garden. Viancn. Govern¬ ment. Leerdam. Govern¬ ment. Bommel. Govern¬ ment. C] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 4.09 t! library is written this rhyme. Pro Crijli lauds , libros lege , pofiea claude. ir.na Maria Schurman , a learned wo- mn, lives in this city, who is unwilling tobe vifited by Grangers. She is about 5c years old. Jn one of the bulwarks of the town is hyfick garden flored with good plants. 1 e gardener pretended he knew their les in Hebrew, Greek , Latin , Engli/h , Dtch, French , &c. a Utrecht velvet, taffety, grogram, ribbands are woven. 'une 18. We came by boat in two hours to a village, where we entred another iot which carry’d us over the river Lech, ianen , a little wall’d place trench’d ut. A fladthoufe here, two burgo- ters, feven fcabini, a fcout, and 20 of he Vroetfchap. die earl of Brederode is lord of this Ice, where we faw the tape weaving by •heel, which moves many fhuttles at a the. This is forbidden at Utrecht under of death, and is prohibited in the cites of Holland , except Harlem. lere we hired a waggon (the wag¬ ers throwing dice who fhould carry us and in three hours arrived at Leer- den , a fmall place wall’d and trench’d but, privileg’d from taxes, &c. and is nder the prince of Grange. The go¬ vernment is by a fcout, feven fcabini, burgomafiers, and 12 of the Vroet- fchp , and a fecretary. ?ur holt at this place brought us in an rordinary dear reckoning, which, tho’ :v unreafonable, we could not get any ement of; whereupon we went and c plain’d to one of the burgomafiers, gave us no relief, but left us to the :y of the iharking landlord, be faw an eagle which was lately taken erabouts. We were here told, That th juice of black currans gives white win a tafle like Rhenijh. y.ne 19. We travell’d in our waggon, :h was drawn by three horfes abreall, ovr a river at the end of Leerdam , and foe, after pafs’d thro’ Afperen , a fmall pice wall’d and ditch’d about •, after three hors riding, we came to the river Va- ha . over which we ferry’d to another wa dtown call’d Bommel , a pretty place, ha mg a handfome broad flreet and mar¬ ketplace before the fladthoufe. Here is a lout, two burgomafiers, and eight ma¬ gnates. bur companies of foldiers (one of wh:h i s Scots) garifon this place. fence we went and ferry’d over the Me, a pleafant ftream, and pafs’d by a ong fort called Crevecceur , neatly trenh’d about i and a little further, came t ol. VI. by Engelen , a little fort, and then rode upon Skippon. a bank raifed in the niidfl of a country that was very much cover’d with water. Where we pafs’d over the Lech , Vahal , and the Mofe , the three ftreams were much of the fame breadth. Some diflance before we came to the Bojch (four hours from Bommel) we pais’d Boi'ch. thro’ a water, and went over two draw¬ bridges, and entred this place, which is differently built from the towns in Hol¬ land , the flreets being indifferently pav’d, and the houfes boarded on the out-fide like the houfes in the Scots cities, only the boards are placed another way, i. e. tranfverfly. This town is upon a little higher ground than the circumjacent coun¬ try, which is fenny, the greatefl part of it being overflowed with water. The town runs out a good way in length, and is encompafs’d with a flrong wall and a deep trench. The river Dommelt runs by, and is convenient for the bringing of commodities. An upper and an under fcout, a pre- Govtrn- fident, and feven fcabini (no burgoma- menU flers here) govern the inhabitants. Twenty-one companies of foot, and four troops of horfe garifon this place. Minheer Beverwart , who is of the houfe of Najfaw , is governor : the earl of Ojfory married his daughter. St. John’s church is built of flone, and st. Tohn’a is like our cathedrals. The porch is handfome, double ifles. The entrance into the choir is a flately marble porch adorned with flatues, as in St. Mary’s church at Antwerp. The altar pillars of marble are flill preferved, and two white marble pillars curioufly carv’d, with the ftory of our Saviour’s birth and afeen- fion. Towards the top of the choir, on a great efcutcheon, is written, Alberto Aujlriaco 1621 Patri Patriae Syha Ditcis Dicat Confecrat. Two organs here-, one at the well end is very large. A curious brafs font. Near the altar is a monument with this infeription. Omnia mors aequat. Gilhertus Ma/uts hie jacet quem Bomrnelia mnndo protulit , Ducts Sylva infuld exce- pit , mors virtutibus canifque auclum inter- cepit , bfuid hie triinnphas Germana fomni? ille tibi reddidit quod debuit , Gf quod non debuit in patriam tranjhdit , obiit 11 Juki Anno cioiocxnu. 5 M In 410 A Journey thro Skippon. In the body of the church is a grave- ftone over Johannes Harbordus Brit, juris munic'vp. in medio templo Candid, ohiit 1630. 8. Id. Oclobris, Alt. 20. pof Carolus Fraier natu maximus. The whole infcription I had not leifure to write out. This John Harbord died here in his travels. Round the choir are the arms of many of the golden fleece order. Over the up¬ per feats is written, Le tres-haut id tres-puiffant Prince Philippe dipt le Bon par la grace de Dieu Ducque de Borgogne, de Lotheir, de Brabant , Van mtlle quatre cent vingt & neuve en la ville de Bruges a Vimitation de Gedeon Crea (A Injlitua a Vhonneur de Dieu, de la vierge Marie & de V Amour a Sain A Andrea Protefteur id Patron de Bour¬ gogne une Compagnie dcs tres-nobles cheva¬ liers en laquelle on repoit Empereurs , Roys, Duques, Marquis id autres perfonnages tant des fubjebls que des ftrange contree pourveu qu'ils fujfent de fang noble id il- lujlre id de bonne renommee id appelle ces feigneurs les Chevaliers de la Foifon d'or aufquelles il donna pour chief perpe- tuell le Ducq legitime qui feroit de Bour¬ gogne id aui auroit le feigneurie des pays has ne voidut que pour lors Us fourpaffaf- fent le nombre de vingt id cinq, le fove- raign chefs compris id pour les occurrences qui pourroicnt fofferir a Vordre il crea quatre offciers honorables a fcavoirle Chan¬ cellery le Fhreforier, le Grejfier, le Roy d'Anne s id pour Veftabliffement de c’efl ordre, il fait de tres-beaux fatutes & no¬ tables ordonnances. Among feveral other infcriptions we obferved thefe following. Le tres-haut id tres-puiffant Prince Edward par la grace de Bleu Roy di Angleterre id Seigneur Finland?. Fres-haut id tres -puiffant Prince Maximilian par la Grace de Dieu Archiducq d’Auftrie , Ducq de Bourgogne, de Lotheir, de Bra¬ bant, de Stire, de Karinte, de Karinole , de Limborg, de Luxembourg, de Gueldres, Conte de Flandres, deFirol, d’Arthoys, de Bonrgoigne, Palatin de Haiinault, de FLol- lande, de Zealande, de Namur id de Zut- phen. Marquis du fain A Empire , Seigneur de Frife, de Salines , de Malines. June 20. We hired a waggon with three horles abreaft, and pafs’d by two forts near the Bofch, call’d the great and little fort, and at fix hours diftance came Endthou- to Lndthouen, a fmall wall’d place ; and Haumont four hours more we arriv’d at Haumont , a poor little place wall’d and trench’d Van oj the [Low C about (fome of the works were flighted.. It is a frontier of the bifhop of Liege's country. A fcout, two burgomafters, feven fca- Govir bini, and 12 of the Vroetfchap here. ment - June 2i. We travell’d over heaths, and went thro’ Roy, a village where the bi¬ fhop of Liege hath a palace •, and foon after (three hours from Haumont ) came to a walled place called Bry , the houfes Bry. whereof were old and decaying. The Auguftine friars have a pretty convent, and are 12 in number. In their chapel, under a pidture, is this infcription, D. 0 . M. In honorem S. Catharinae Virginis id Mar- tyris bujus Arae Patronae Ven'lis Nob. id ftrenuus Philibertus Taxis Canon. Bonnen, id Gerardus d Faxis Sac. Caef. Majeft. Dapifer ejufdemque legionis unius Germa- norum militum Vice Coro/iellus in memo- riam Patriseoruvi GoclfridiHulsdifti Faxis elelt Colon, id Epi. Leodien. Confiliarii hie fepulti Filii Fratres pio affeclu pofuerunt Anno mdcxxiii. Near this town is a woody pleafant country. After we had baited at Bry, we tra- vell’d over an open heathy country, and by degrees left the level, and afeended a good heighth, whence we had a profpedc of Mae [trichi, the Mofe , See. and feven hours from our bait we came to the out¬ works of Maefiricht, where a fentinel Mae- rang a bell, and the foldiers examin’d us, ftricht. and then lifted up a great beam for our waggon to enter the gate. This town is built like the Bofch, and is divided by the river Mofe into two parts; the Jefler fide is called the JVyck, and is joyn d to the other by a ftrong broad-ftone bridge with nine arches. A ftrong wall and good trench about the town, befides many half-moons, idc. Part of the bigger fide of Maefiricht is fituated on a rifing ground, and there*- fore not fo ftrong as if it were in a level. The greateft number of the inhabitants are papifts, who have their religion pub¬ licity tolerated. About 20 cloifters in this place, which at this time made a great jangling with their bells, to put people in mind of their prayers for fair weather. Two burgomafters, two fcouts, 14 Govern fcabini and .... of the Vroetfchap, half of ment - which are proteftants and half papifts. The garifon confifts of 31 foot compa¬ nies (four or five of which are Englijh Englifli and Scots) and fix troops of horfe. The governor is Rhenegrave Fredericus Mag --' 0 d ' e ' nus. Three Low C.j Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France- 411 Three Dutch proteftant churches here, and one church uled every other time by the Englifh and French. st. Serva- Sc. Servatius his church is handfome, tius> ' and is ufed by the papifts. The choir is c urc ' railed high, and underneath are chapels. We obferved a great number of boys who came from fchooi to hear mafs: they kneeled down in ranks, and filled the body of the church. The canons of this church do not fhave their heads, nor perform divine fervice, but leaving their places, may marry when they will. In the cloifter, over feveral doors, is written, Humanitas th Poefis, Grammatica fecunda & infirna. our Lady’s Our lady’s church is like the former, church. w itJi chapels under the choir. Memoriae S Viduae , Clientes , Pauperes, Cives , forum *, Afiraea , Sophia , Hiftoria , Mufarum chori nequiere morti eripere Galenum fuum , fic nempe cautum ejt otnnihus refiat viori fed vita juftis redditur , malis perit, Jacobo Galeno fiibique Angela Greeftia ut pridem tori fic tandem tumuli Confors PC. obiere ille An. Chrifiiano cioiocxxii xii Kal. Febr. Haec cioioc . . . stadt- A new fladthoufe building at this time hcufe. D f ft one- It is fq uare and large, and will refemble that at Amfierdam. It hath a walk round the hall, and about the cham¬ bers. Hollan- Maefiricht was the laft place we faw be- ders, &e. longing to the united provinces; there- cuftoms. p ore ^ before j ta j our royal exchange, here are bookfellers fhops ; the inner court is kept fhut, which is cloiftered only on two fides, having a garden and fountain in the middle ; the ro6ms are but mean for a prince’s houle, and neither well furnifhed nor well kept. Many of the women here wear hats. Armour and guns are made good and cheap at Liege. This city is pleafantly fituated by the river Mofe , and environed almoft round with hills, the river divides itfelf here, and hath feveral ftreams running through many parts of the city •, here are feveral bridges, one a very fair one of ftone with fix long arches, the two middle-moft arches are each of them more than 20 yards wide. Nigh the river is a place where fometimes are tiltings. The citizens houfes are moft of timber, feme of the fronts are covered with boards as in Scotland, others with Hates, the reft as ours in England ; the ftreets are not broad. A convenient key at the river, where are many of thcfe long boats we obferved at Dort and Utrecht. On the brow of a hill which hangs over the city is the fort or caftle that commands the town. All belly provifions here are cheap and plentiful; in the hills about Liege are a great many cherry-gardens and orchards. The country people are civil, well manner’d and kind to ftrangers ; the wo¬ men are generally of a dark completion, and not fo handfome as the Hollanders ; they do a great deal of drudgery, and the poorer fort carry coals and other burthens on their backs in baskets of a peculiar figure, towards the bottom being of a conical fhape, wherein they can put a ftaff and reft themfelves Handing without fetting down their burthens. We rook notice of many poor and beg¬ gars every where, but not importunate if denied. Here they ufe a fort of firing they call hot-fhots, which are round balls made of dirt or clay, and coal beaten fmall and mixed together, and then dried in the fun; thefe ferve to flake the heat of the fire, and keep coals from burning out too fall. At Namurs and this place ftone jugs and other pots are made. a dal Some difiance from Liege we came up a mne. fteephill, where we were let down five or fix in a basket into a coal mine 150 yards deep ; the coal is like our ftone coal. When we came down to the bottom we were each of us drawn in a fledge, by two little boys to a fledge, who faftned their two chains tied about them to the fledges. thro' Part oj the [ Germ, and fo drew us through a low, narrow and long paftage (on each fide there being fup- ports of wood) to a large lpace where we law many miners at work. A horfe turned about an axis perpendicularly fix’d, and winding up the rope we were hoifted out of the mine-pit. June 25, in our two hired waggons or carts, each with a Angle horfe, we went very flowly over hilly and ftony way, and had in profpedt on our left hand Franchi- mont caftle •, foon after we had a view of a deep valley, in the bottom of which is the Spaw, where we arriv’d this night it isr/.eSpaw. feven leagues from Liege, and is a little walled place with indifferent buildings in it, the inhabitants receive no fmall benefit from the frequency of ftrangers who come hither every fummer, and drink the me- Medicinal dicinal waters fo much commended and fpoken of in the world. In the market-place is a well or fpring, the water whereof gives an inky or vitriol tafte ; the virtues of it are mentioned in this diftich written on it, ObftruSlum refer at, durum terit, hu?nida ficcat Debile fortificat fi tamen arte bibis. 1. This is called Bohon. 2. We tailed (a good diftance from the town) the waters at the well called Geron- tijler, which are fharper and flronger than the former ; it is covered with a tiled roof fupported by four marble pillars, and hath this infeription ; // Reverendijftme & Excellentijfme Sr: Sr. Conrard dcBourgfdore,grand Chambellaine & premier Confilier S' Eft at, Colonel & Gouverneur General de tous les forts & fortrejfes du Seren. Ele £1 cur de Branden- bourg dan Jon eftat Electoral grand Pre- voft des Eglifes Cathedrales de Halberftadt & Brandcnbourg Chevalier de l'or dre de St. Jean & Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow, Sr. de Gros, ?Aache non, Golde- leck, Bouckow, Oberftorff.\ &c. The fame is alfo in Dutch. 3. A little off is another well of the fame nature. 4. About half an hour’s walk brought us to a well called Saviniere. 5. Near that is another *, all thefe are of the fame nature, but fome of them are flronger than others. At one of them this is inferibed, Paulus Jo'es Baro de Groijbecke Archi. Cond. Sere'mcefiuE Gelnier Cancellarius viciantem d vera feparabat. Anno 1651. 6 . There Germ. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 4 1 7 6. There is another well which we had not time to lee. We boiled fome of the water, and per¬ ceived it then very turbid, and of a reddifh colour, whereas it was before very clear, but could not make it curdle milk. Many rare plants grow wild in the woods hereabouts. At this time were here one Mr. Howard and Mr. Jones , and two more Englijh gentlemen. The Spaw is in the country of Liege. June 27, we hired two waggons or carts, each having but one horfe, and went not far from the iron furnace to the iron forge, and afterwards thro’ rocky ways among the hills, to the fulphur and Franchi- vitriol works nigh Franchimont caflle ; monu after this digrellion we return’d into the “ndvvriol. g reat road, where fome Spanifh foldiers beg’d of us very infolently, and flopp’d our carts becaufe we gave them fome liards, which they threw away ; but giving the value of three or four fhillings they feem’d fatisfied, and let us pafs on to Limburg , iur &’ three leagues from the Spaw , where the fentinel flay’d us at the gate till he fent in our names to the governor •, the walls of this place are very flrong, having a deep dry ditch about them •, here is one indif¬ ferent flreet, which is but fhort, tho’ broad : This town is little, and fituated upon a hill •, on the wefl-fide is a fleep pre¬ cipice, and below runs the river IFefcr. At one end is the caflle. The monuments of fome of the dukes of Limburg in the church, were demolifh’d by eat Hollanders when they had this place in pofiefllon. Le Conte d’Avendon is governor. About 300 foldiers in garrifon now. After we had refrefhed ourfelves with a bait, we travelled a road infefled with Spanijh foldiers that begg’d, and went Skippon. thro’ a wood; at two hours and a half from Limburg , we came to a little village called Haglienftall , where by reafon it was night and dangerous to go further, we took up a bad lodging, and lay in the flraw on a floor next to the liable. June 28, we pafs’d thro’ a wood, and Aken * in an hour and an half’s time arrived at Aken , where the fentinels examined us, and let us enter the gates: This city is of a good length, and hath a double wall about it ; the flreets are meanly built. About feven years ago a lamentable fire happened, which confumedfthey fay) 4500 houfes ; it is reported the capuchins cloifler flrangely efcaped the flames, all being deflroyed round about while the monks were at their devotions, and none endea¬ vour’d to preferve their building from burning. In the market place is a large and hand- fome fountain, with this infcription about the edges of the bafon. Hie aquis per granum Principem quendam Romanian Neronis & Agrippce fratrem calidorum fontium thermce dprincipio con- firuPlce ; pojlea vero per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. confiituto ut locus hie fit caput & Regni fedes tranfalpes renovates funt , quibus thermis hie gelidus fons in- fluxit olim quern nunc demum hoc esneo vafe illuftravit S. P. If. Aquifgran. Anno Domini mdcxx. On the top Hands a brafs flatue Charlemagne. o The fladthoufe or curia is a very fair The ftadt - building ; nigh the door is this written, henfe. a.z.i -o.v. 1 'flllE)RI(yS Koip IMPATOfit\ XEZYM IRJlE 426 A journey thro' Part of the [Germ. Skippon. me n, a rich filver crofs and banner, Do- minican and Francifcan friars, mufick, and little boys dreft like thofe that carry’d the images, ringing little bells in their hands *, then came the hoft, carry’d under a canopy by the fuffragan bifhop, who is deputed by the prince; afterwards fol¬ lowed the image of the virgin Mary , at¬ tended by many girls and women Ting¬ ing, &c. We were told this legend here: that near Mentz a drunken fellow fwearing he would kill the next man he met, a cru¬ cifix coming by him, he ftruck at it with his fword, which made the crucifix bleed, and the fellow immediately funk up to the knees in the ground ; where he flood till the magiftrates apprehended him. The firfl funday of every month is the Jefuits feafl. The fecond funday is the Auguflines. The third is the Dominicans and Fran- cifcans. Any that are admitted into their fraternity, have their names written in a book, for which they ufually give two or three Ihillings 5 then they are obliged to fry 150 Pater nofier’s , every day, and to fall every wednefday : they of the Domi¬ nican fraternity are called Rofycrucians , and wear a label about their bodies *, and they of the Francifcan, wear a cord about them. The fourth funday is the Carmelites, who oblige to feven Paler nofleP s, every day, and leven Ave Maria ’s, and to fall alfo on wednefdays ; if they eat flefh, they mull read the matins of the virgin Mary : they wear a label about their necks. All of thefe fraternities are bound to re¬ ceive the facrament on thefe feafts, being firfl confeft; and if any one dies before the faturday following, he will certainly (as they fancy) be delivered out of purga¬ tory. The archbifhop of Mentz is of the Car¬ melites fraternity, in whofe church we had a fight of him, the fuffragan celebrating mafs, his mitre being taken off and put on, as we obferved at Antwerp. At one time four of the prince’s fervants came in with torches, and two flood on each fide of the altar and made low congees, firfl towards the weft and then towards the eaft. The women of Mentz , and hereabouts, wear odd kind of caps, which they call peckerhoets ; becaufe bakers ufed to wear them. The bridge here over th e Rhene is of wood, and bends like a bow again!! the ftream. July 13. before we enter’d the Frank¬ furt boat, near the river lay a rude old ftone with thefe characters fcarce legible : ... IRI CATO COS. Crofs the Rhene we came into the river Mesne •, and a mile from Mentz , on the right hand of the river, we paffed by Ruffelheim , a handfome fort of the lanut- grave of Darmjlat: a little farther on the left hand we went by Eterfheim , a final 1 walled place ; and three miles from Mentz , on the left hand, we came by a walled town called Hochfl , garrifon’d by the elec¬ tor of Mentz’s foldiers: a fair houfe here ruined by the wars. A mile from hence we landed at Frankfurt , where foldiers Frankfurt, examin’d us, and wrote down our names; and after we came into our inn we wrote our names ourfelves, which were fen.t to the burgo-mafter. The river Mcene is very pleafant, and the country between Mentz and Frankfurt is a level, except fome diftance on the left fide the Mcene , where there is a ridge of hills. We obferved here, and in the Rhine , their fifhing nets, which are faften’d to two bending flicks which crofs one another in the middle, where a long pole is fixed to them, and that pole may be moved upon a crotch fet upright in the boat, to lift and let down the net. a is the crotch: h is the pole faften’d to the middle of two crofs flicks at c \ which have the net faften’d to their ends dd dd. At Frankfurty we faw the difcalceate The difial- Carmelites cloiller ; and went into their ceate c * r - church, an old building: over the high melltes ‘ altar is a picture well drawn ; and juft be¬ fore the altar lies a tombflone, with the effigies of Nohilis Domince de Frimberg. In the north wall of the choir is the ftatue of a citizen of this place, who was a great benefador to this convent: he is habited fomewhat like a religious knight. An old altar-piClure in this church, which is cu- rioufly painted, and hath rare carved work about it, relating the ftory of St. Anne: in their refeCtory, a fair large room, the walls are painted with the ltory of EliaSy the Carmelites being perfecuted from rnons Carmeliy and of St. Lewis his receiving them. Their library is furnifhed with books of all faculties. Twenty-feven monks dwell here. We vifited the curia or ftadthoufe: a- stadtheup bove is a large arched room, where a court is kept: in this place the emperor (if he be eleCted here) dines at a table by him- felf, and the electors, by themlelves, at a table. The room where the emperor is Germ.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 427 is chofen is not very great, having a long table in it, with fourteen chairs about it, and feats round covered with green. In this room hang very immodelt pictures. By the favour of one of theconfuls wefaw BulU the Bulla Aurea , a written book, having Aurca. a great gold medal hanging to it: on one fide is the emperor Charles the IVth’s pic¬ ture, and round about it is written, Karolus quartus divind favente dementia Roman. Imper. Semp. Aug. On the other fide is the city of Rome figured, whereon is written, Aurea Roma and round about, Roma caput mundi regit orbis frccna rotundi. In a lower room of the fladthoufe the fenators fit i on the walls of it are the pic¬ tures of the emperors defied here, with infcriptions fignifying the time of their eleflion, &c. viz. 1. Fridcricus Barharojja , eleft. 3. Mart, an. 1152. impera'vit annis 38. m. 3. d. 7. oh. 10. Jim. an. 1190. 2. Henrictis 6. eleft. Rex Roman. 1183. imper. aim. 8. m. 3. d. 19. oh. tilt. Sep- tern. an. 1198. 3. Philippas 1. eleft. 8 Mart. 1199. per. an. 9. in. 11. d. 14. oh. 22. Jun. an. 1208. 4. Fridcricus 2. cleft, an. 1212. imper. an. 38. oh. 13. Decemh. an. 1250. Sum. Muf. Liter arum fant or et rejlaurator. 5. Conradus 4. eleft. rex Rom. an. 1237. imper. ann. 3. oh. ann. 1253. 6. IVilhelmits eleft. contra Frid. et Conra. 4. ann. 1247. imp. an. 2. oh. 1. Febr. an. 1255. Scqu. interregn. an. 18. 7. Rudolphus Hahshurgicus eleft. 1. Oft oh. an. 1273. imp. an. 17. m. 9. d. 15. oh. 16. Jul. an. 1291. 8 . Adolphus NaJJovius eleft. 6. Jan. an. 1292. imp. an. 5. in. 6. d. 9. oh. 15. Jul. ann. 1298. 9. Albert us Aufiriacus cleft. 25. Jul. an. 1298. imp. an. 9. m. 9. d. 6. oh. ann . 1308. 10. Henricus 7. cleft. 1. Novem. an. 1308. imp. an- 4. in. 9. d. 23. oh lit 24. Aug. ann. 1314. 11. Ludovicus Bavarus eleft. 18. Oftoh. an. 1314. imp. annis 33. oh. 11. Oft. an. 1348. 12. Carolus 4. eleft. 2. Julii an- 1346. imp. an. 31. in. 8. d . 16. oh. 27. Mart. An. 1378. 13. Guntherus eleft. 2. Febr. ann. 1349. imperav. menfes 6. ohiit 1. Aug. Anno 1349- 14. Wenceflaus eleftus Rex Rom. 12. Jun. Sk,ppon - Anno 1376. imper io abrogatus menfe Maio anno 1400. imp. annis 22. in. 2. ohiit 1419. 15. Rupertus 1. eleft. 10. Sept. an. 1400. imp. an. 9. m. 2. d. 8. oh. 18. Mail an. 1410. 16. Sigifmondus 1. cleft. 8. Martii 1411. imp. an. 26. m. 8. d. 1. oh. 9. Decemh. H 37 - 17. Alhertus 2. eleft. 1. Jun. anno 1438. imper. ann. i* in. 9. d. 26. oh. 2 7. Oft. * 439 - 18. Fridericus 3. eleft. 1. Jan. 1440. imp. ann ■ 33. m. 6- d. 18. ohiit 19- Augufl. 1493 - 19. Maximilianus 1. eleft. Rex Rom. 16. Fehr. ann. 1485. imp. ann. 25. m. 4- d. 24. oh. 12. Jan. 1519. 20. Carolus s- eleft. 28. Jail. ail. 1519. imp. an. 38. in. 8. d. 13. ahdicat fe imp. 13. Mart. an. 1558. ohiit 21. Septemh. ejufdem. 21. Ferdinand. 1. eleft. Rex Rom. S-J an ' an. 15 3.1. imper. an. 6. m. 4. d. 14. oh. 25. Julii <272.1564. 22. Max. 2. eleft. Rex Rom. 3 o. Novemh. an. 1562. imp. an. 12. m. 2. d. 17. oh. 12. Oft. an. 1576. 23. Rudolphus 2. eleft. Rex Rom. 28 . 0 ft. an. 1575. imp. an. 36.111. 2. d. 13. oh. IO. J< 272 . < 272 . l 6 l 2 . The government of this city is by a Govern - praetor, two burgo-maflers, fourteen fca- mem. bini, and forty-two fenators. In the fenate- houfe there are three fcamna •, the firft for the fcabini, the fecond for the literati, and the third for the opifices ; which laft are never advanced higher: but when one of the fcabini dies, another is chofen out of the literati. The forty-two fenators have the chief government ; and the people are not allowed any fhare, by reafon of their rebellion, 1614, againft the magi- flrates. The two burgo-maflers, or con- fuls, are defied yearly by the fenators out of themfelves. In that rebellion, the rabble killed fome of the Jews: but the chief of the tumult were executed, and their heads were fix’d on the bridge •, and the principal leader had his houfe pull’d down, and a flake let up there in perpetuam rei memoriam. This city is well built with timber hou' fes, which have eaves very much hang¬ ing over. Before their doors are pillars of flone. Bookfellers have great lhops here. In the market, and two other pla¬ ces, are three handfome fountains; the market-place is fair: towards one end of the city, is a large fpace. The fortifi¬ cations are very ltrong and neat, having a deep 428 A Journey thro ’ Tart of the [Germ Skippon. a deep trench round, full of water, and ^Vfurnifh’d with fifh, which none dare take without the magiftrates confent: at one of the gates, ftanding on a draw-bridge, we faw great flore of large carps, which expected bread we threw in, and which they flrove for, and greedily devoured. Over the river Mane is a famous ftone bridge, with about fourteen arches, that joins the greatefl part of the city to the other part called Saxenhaufen. It is a cuftom here, if a child dies under fix or feven years, none but women ac¬ company it to the grave •, but if it be more, then both men and women go along with it. The country about Frankfurt is rich, pleafant and woody. Jews. The Jews are permitted here, and are numerous: they are allotted one part of the city, where they are lock’d up every night. Their houfes are very old and mean. Moil: of the men wear ruffs; and the women are habited with a black man¬ tle : their head-drefs is of linen, which flicks out much on either fide: feveral of the women alfo wear ruffs. All the Jews wear a little yellow mark upon their cloaths for diftinblion fake : they are generally very poor, and ufe the trade of brokers. At our inn we were much troubled with their importunity to fell us cloaths. They are counted thieves: but if any of them be taken, and executed for theft, he is fir ft choaked, and then hung by the mid¬ dle and legs. One about two years before was fo executed : but his brethren ftole away his body, and threw it into the river. All the magiftrates, and the greatefl part of the inhabitants, are Lutherans, and have five churches: the papifts have St. Bartholomew's , a collegiate church, where Sr. Bart ho- the emperor ufed to be crowned: in the lomew s. Huddle of the choir is an ancient monu¬ ment without any infcription, which we were told is an emperor’s tomb. Here are two convents of men, viz. Dominicans, and difcalceate Carmelites; and one cl oilier of women. The reformed are reputed about one thoufand in number, who formerly had a church within the walls, and then juft without the town •, but that being fired malicioufly, they have now one fome diilance from the city. Every Friday morning, the fcholars that are maintained by the city, fing at the magiftrates doors ; and afterwards the Lutherans have a fermon. The Engl'ifh church that was ufed in queen Mary's days, is much decay’d •, and the Englijh houfe is now a granary or flore - houfe. The houfe where the emperor lodges when he is crowned here, hath a ftone front-, butwithin the walls are of timber, Cfc. It belongs to a nobleman. One Mr. Francis Balde, our merchant, was very civil to us. One Sheyrer lives here, who turns ivory curioufly : and one Myrian lives here, who is a very good pidlure-drawer. In the druggifts fhops are feveral rarities: in one we faw an entire Lacertus fquammofus mar. which Mr. Wil¬ loughby bought in another we faw two cups of ivory, curioufly turn’d and carv’d one reprefented the hunting of the wild boar. The ftory of M. Curtins we faw in a very curioufly carv’d fllver plate, which, with the ivory cups, were made by one Taeyer of Augsburg. At Adrian Sonemans a druggift, among many other things, he fhewed us Crapault de Mer Bellonii , which he called a remora , and was valued by him at 10 ducats. About half an hour from the city is a pretty fpring, called Pingflweit , paved about; where the bakers, every Whitfon- tide , come and dance, &c. three days together. About an hour’s diftance from Frank¬ furt is a {linking well, and within the city in a brewer’s houfe is another ; which are stinking probably the fame with the fulphur well wdU. at Gnaejburg in Torkfhire. Tobacco is plant¬ ed about Frankfurt. July 17, we went by waggon about half an hour’s diftance from Frankfurt , through the firft pine woods we faw in our travels, which lafted almoft to our lodg¬ ing this night at a village called Gerre- fhehn , three German miles, or hours, from Frankfurt. July 18. At two of the clock this morn¬ ing we fet forth and came to KernJheim , a little walled place by the Rhene fide, be¬ longing to the eledlor of Mentz , where we ferry’d over, and then rode through woods and deep waters, which were occa- fion’d by the overflowing of the Rhene , and the late great rains, a great part of the levels with corn, &c. near the river, being now under water. Six hours, or German miles, from Gerrefheim , we came to Worms , where foldiers examined us; then we enter’d one wall, which encom- Worms, pafles a great fpace of ground round ano¬ ther wall, with which is the city, much ruin’d by the wars: the building old and mean. On the outflde of the bifhop’s palace Biflnfs arc painted the fybils, and verfes under palate. them and under the bifhop’s arms are written thefe verfes, after the bifhop’s name. Philippus , D. Gr. eleftus et confrmatus Epifcopus Wormatienfis , Anno Domini M.DC.LJI. S if ere Germ.~] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 429 Sift ere cum lubeat noviterque extruda tueri. Sum licet exiguce molis et artis opus. DiJJimili baud adeo facie tibi forte vidcbor JEdibus a Iceva contiguifque mihi. Conftitit illarum numerofis fabrica fcecli Amplior a dextris Jic prius aula fuit. Intus et exterius varia piftura colore Reddidit ornatus, cat era fart a recens. All prima hceC ponit funDaMIna noftra wfr phiu tt« s written in P erf EC It et rellquuMfeDulus and or opus, gold. Utpote VanglonVM prcefVL DeLedVs a- VItVm Regia nanclfcens qVre que nec ejfe mag Is. EdltVs In LVceM per prlfca ftlrpe Poden- ftein Anna mitra etgentis fronte videnda gero. Alma Dei bonitas feros impertiat annos Audi or i et nobis: fit tibi , left or, idem. On the fladthoufe are two giants paint- stAdthoufe. ed, in a lying polture (their fpears and great bones lie in a cloifter of the cathe¬ dral) and great bones hang under the pic¬ tures, probably bones of an elephant. Thefe infcriptions are on the outfide of the lladthoufe. Fridericus III. imp. Aug. 1^93 Renovata eft bcec Baftlica mdxcii. Aftra Deo nil majus babet , nil Cue fare ten a Si terrain Ccefar, ft rcgit aftra Deus. Libertatem quam majores pepercre digue ftudeat fovere pofteritas , turpe enim eft- fet parta non pofj'e tueri , quamobrem IVangiones quondam cum Julio conflifta- ti, jam tibi Coe far perpetua fide cohe¬ rent. Frider: 3. Maximil: 1. Carolus 5. Fer- din: 1. Maxvnilianus 2. and Rodolpbus written on the top. Auftriac c familue Ilcroibus Vindicibus li• bertatis patrix ultra ccl annos amiffx e vetuftx Vangionum IVormaax S P fiftbc- neficiorum memor locavit anno m d lxxxi. Nigh the figure of a dragon is written Draco clavem tenens induftria vaftas folitu- tudines excoli fide et conftantia ad decus pervenire demonjlrat brec majores Vangi¬ onum , urbis fuce arma ejfe voluerunt. There is al.fo painted the ftory of Tar- quin , Brutus , Horatius Codes , Porfenna , and Clcelia. Great We went to the great church, dedicated church, to —- Behind the high altar are kept Vo 1., VI. the bones of S. Burchartus : a large figure Skippon. of S. Chriftopber is painted on the north wall ^V ^ within. Thefe following bifhops monu¬ ments were taken notice of by us, viz. Georgius Antonins a Roneftein. Gulielmus ab Efferen. obiit 1616. Bernbardus Everhardus. Hugo d Cratz de Scbarfenftein , who built up a fair altar to S. Clare. Tbomas Broake. —— AJfeckenfen Epifcopus lies in S. Giles his chapel. In the body of the church, on a grave- flone, is inlcrib’d Julius Deodatus de Lucca S. C afar ere Majef- tatis Camerarius , Conjiliarius , Colonellus et Generalis Vigiliarum Prrefcdus obiit xxvi menfiis Julii anno falutis mdcxxxv. This church, they fay, was built by a fexton about the year 300. In the middle of the area of the cloifter is an hawthorn, reported to be 300 years old : it is fhaped into an arbour, which is fupported by done pillars. A praspofitus, decanus, cudos, fcholafli- cus, cantor, and 20 canonici belong to this church: the bifhop is chofen by the ca¬ nons. The elector of Mentz is bifhop now. The monuments of Frid. de Domiutl in the great church alfo Tbeodoricus de Bettendorf mdlxxx. Pbilippus in Rodenftein qui redifeavit fum- mum altare. In a little chapel on the fouth fide of the church, is the ftory of Daniel cafe into the dungeon painted : this was called by him that fhewed us it, fignum JVormatia. The magiftrates of this city are all Lu¬ therans. Government is by three fladtholders, Govem- whogovern by turns every year, and 26 m>nt - fenators, two of which are confuls. A long German mile from IVorms we Frankcn- arrived at Frankendal •, where, after fome dal. examination by foldiers, we were admit¬ ted into the gates: the centinels Hand with long ftaves in their hands, that have on the top a great knob fet thick with ironfpikes. At our inn we wrote our names, which were fent to the burgo-mafter. The fituation of this town is in a level, which was at this time much overflowed by the Rbene’s fwelling over its banks: the water came within the walls of this place, and drowned many gardens. The llreets are broad and lira it •, but the buil¬ dings are low and indifferent, and the 5 R town 43 ° A Journey tho Van of the [Germ. SKirpo.N. town i s nQ t large: there is a pretty maiket- sy ~ S/rs ~ / place ; and in the middle of it is paved a triangular figure, a triangle ftone being the arms of Frankendal , which was ftampt on pieces of gold and filver money in the year 1623. when the Spaniards befieged the place. The fortifications are neatly kept, ha¬ ving a broad trench of water about them : in one of the hornworks, towards Worms, is a little hdufe, where fix troopers watch every night, two of them riding by turns the round of the town; and juft under the line, a corporal and two files of foldiers have another little houfe, who are ready to relieve the others in cafe of neceflity. Govern- Here are three reformed churches, the ment. High Dutch, Low Dutch , and French ; each of which hath four magiftrates for life: when one dies, the church he belong'd to nominates three or four, and recommends them to the town of Neujlatt (a little walled town, five hours walk from hence) and there one of them is eledted. The twelve magiftrates chufe a burgo- mafter every year. The prince elector palatin appoints a High Dutch man fcout or ratfheeren, who hath moft power, and is in office quamdiu fe bene gefferit. In criminal cafes they lend to the prince, who fends them his deter¬ mination. An upper lieutenant, whofe name is IVilder, is governor of Frankendal : the garrifon confifts of five companies, two of which are citizens, who watch, fixteen at a time, every night. Without the works Hands a mark to fhoot at; where, upon fome folemn times, a filver plate is ffiot for. Low In the Low Dutch church are thefe three Dutch infcriptions (two in efcutcheon, and one church. on a p tt i e mar ble monument) to Englifh- vien , viz. 1. Mr Stafford H'lllmot Chevalier Gentil- homme de la Chambre privee de fa Majefte de la Grande Bretagne, lequel deceda le 1 jour djAbris Anno 1620. 2. Monfieur George Herbert aage de 30 ans tfcuir Anglois mournfl en Franqueti¬ dal le 8 Janvier 1621. eft ant Lieu¬ tenant de fon Coufin Gerrard Herbert Che valier Gentilhorame de la Chambre privee de fa Majefte de la Grande Bretagne. Virtute et Sanguine Occubuere Anno mdcxxi 3. In Gratifjimam memoriam Domini Gene - rofi Gulielmi Fairfax Anglo-Britanni Honor at iffimi Domini Lho. Fairfax de Denton in Com. Eboracenft Equitis Aurati Ftlii ; cohortis Anglicani Du¬ ets infants, quia aimcs r.atus c ire iter 25 poft animi plurima edita teftimo- tua inviftiffmi itnd cum fratre fuo jimiore in obfidione Francovallenfi, hie fatla irruptione abreptus, ille iftu bombardx percujftts. At one Henrick vander Burg's, we faw a fair colledtion of Roman coins, ftatues in brafs and ftone, rare pidtures, hSc. This man was a fervan t to the old earl of Arun¬ del, and attended Petty (whofe pidture we faw here) who was employed by the earl to colledt rarities in Italy, &c. The prince eledtor hath a palace here, who might make this a thriving place, if the fame privileges were bellowed upon it that Manheim hath. Tobacco is much planted hereabouts. Nigh the afore-mention’d Neuftatt are a great many almond-trees. Here we began to reckon our expences by patacoons and wifpenies. July 20. we went by waggon a German mile through Oberfheim , which is a ftnall place, well walled ; but hath few houfes in it: and two miles and a half farther we came to Spire, where foldiers examin’d us. Spire, before we enter’d a wall that encompafies a larger fpace of ground than the outward wall of Worms does about an inward wall. The buildings of this city are large ; but old, and of timber work : water runs thro’ the high-ftreet which brings to the cathe- Jhe c *tht- dral, a ftrong ftone building, and high r t ‘ roofed. In the body or nave of the church are the monuments of feveral biffiops, fome of which we took notice of, viz. 1. Marquardus ab Hattftein Epifcopus Judex Camerce, &c. ob. 7. Decemb. 1581. 2. Reverendo atf, Illuftri Principi ac Do¬ mino D. Georgio Epifcopo Spiren. ac Co^ Palat. Rheni Duciq-, Bavarice admirand.z dementia, prudentia et pietate undiq-, cqh- fpicuo ac de-mum flagrante Anglico futlo¬ re hmnatura morte defunfto pins in E.pif- copatu fucceffor Philippus d Flerfheim hoc monumentum inftituit, obiit autem anno falutis mdxxix. die xxv 1 1. Septemh. qui aterna luce fruatnr. 3. Philippus d Flerfheim Epifcopus v Ob. 19. Kal. Septemb. mdlii. 4. DominusGerhardusdeErenbi 11g. ob. 1363. The pulpit is very handfomely carved, of ftone; having thefe twr a infcriptions: 1. Reverendifftmus Princ eps ac Dominus Re- ftaurator hujus Cath tdree Eberhardus d Dienheim 3 Germ .J Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 43 * Dienheim eleUtts fuit in Epifcopum 20 De- cenib. anno Domini mdlxxxi cetatis fuce x x x 1 x et in jit die em c amerce folito jura- mento receptus ultima Aprilis anno xxvn ejufdem ante folenni equitatu in urbem Spi- renfem effet ingreffus anno falutis humance mdlxxxiiii. obiitanno cetatis fu.t - — » - epifeopatus. 2. Eberhardus D. G. Epifcopus Spirenjis et Prcepofitus Weiffenburgenfis Imperialis ca¬ mera judex, &c. Cathedram hanc in hono- rem Dei omnipotentem et ornamentum cele- berrimes bujus Bafilicce nova hac forma conflrui et erigi fecit anno falutis humance mdxcv nihil aliud optans quam ut pofte- ritas ex hoc loco verbo Dei pie et Catholics erudita fufis ad Deum precibus femper fui grato animo meminijfe velit. Before the choir is this written : Nos Matthias Dei gratia Epifcopus Spiren. ob honorem Sacri Romani Imperii ac laudem bujus in [ignis Cathedralis Ecclefue Spiren. qua eft principalior Sepuliura nationis Ale- mania Imperatorum et Regum Romanorum Conjugum et filiarum hanc tabulam fieri ordinavimus, in qua nomina in hoc regum choro humatorum in perpetuam rei memo- riarn confcribi et annotari fecimus, quorum animee et omnium Cbrift. fidelium in pace mifericorditer requieleant. 1. Conradus rex Romanorum fecundus et Imperator primus bujus nominis origine Dux Franconice habuit conjugem nomine Gifelam de antiquo fanguine Regni Fran- cia ortam ; hie Conradus Ecclefiam No¬ me nfem five Spirenfem antiquit us conftruc- tam in honorem Suntil Stephani Papce et martyris diruit et amovit , et Ecclefiam qua: nunc cernilur gloriofe cedificari fecit pri- marium ponendo lapidem in profefto Sandies Margaret ha Virginis Anno Domini mille- jimo tricefmo in honorem jandtiffimce Dei genetricis Maries Virginis fuperbeneditlif- jimes confecratum, et hoc Rcginbaldo Spi- renfi Epifcopo pr cp f dent e, et obiit idem Con¬ radus fecund, non. Julii Anno Dominices In- carnatiouis millefmo tricefmo nono Sepidtus cum Gifela uxorefid pernotatd in hoc choro Regum. 2. Ilenricus tertius Romanorum Rex et fe¬ cundus Romanorum Imperator pius ac ni- ger appellalus filius presfaiorum Conradi et Gifela, uxorem habuit Agnetem, Ea erat filia Regis Anglics. Obiit Anno Dominices Incarnationis millefmo quinquagefmo fexto, tertio Non. Otlob. prcefdenie Epifcopo Con- rado. Idem Ilenricus crucem pretiofam in fummo altari reconditam huic Ecclefes largiter donavit. 3 . Henricus quartus Romanorum Rex et 3 tius Skippon. Romanorum Imperator, filius preefati ha- bens uxorem Bertham nomine, hie fepultus cum eadem Anno Dominices Incarnationis millefmo centefmo 6 to. feptimo idus Au- gufti et d filio fuo fuccefj'ore in imperio in- carceratus et in vinculis mortuus. Rud- gero Epifcopo prcefdente. 4. Ilenricus fiUs Romanorum Rex, 4 tus Imperator , presfati Henrici 4 ti filius Spi¬ res fepultus, obut anno Domini 1125. id Kal. Maii. Hi duo Pater et Filius in Porticu Ecclefus Spiren. fupra januam funt fculpti imagines, hie fine liberis de- ceffih 5. Philippus Dux Suevies Rom. Rex eletlus in dfcordia contra Ducem Brunfwicenfem hie fepultus, Bambergce occifus, obiit An. Dom. Incarnationis 1208. 11. Kal. Julii presfidente Johanne Epifcopo. Sepultus in monafterio Suntzheim. 6 . Rudolphus Romanorum Rex origine Co¬ mes de Habfpurg obiit Anno Domini 1291. hie fepidtus. 7. Adolphus de genere Comitum de Nafjavj Roman. Rex, tempore Friderici de Bolan- dia Epifcopi Spirenfis in hoc choro regum fepultus obiit 1298. 6. non. Julii et oc¬ cifus per Albertum Ducem Auftrics Suc- cefforem in Regno. 8. Albertus Roman. Rex Dux Auftrics Fi¬ lius Rudolphi Ro. Regis Anno Domini 1308. 4 . Kal. Septemb. obiit, et a fratris filio Johanne Duce Auftrics occifus et hie fepidtus. Gifela, Bertha, et Agnes cum presfatis 8 Im- peratoribus et Regibus in hoc choro Regum et Beatrix in Cryptd Ecclefcs Imperatrices gloriofe requiefeunt, et Conradus, et 3 Henrici presfati non modo Ecclefiam csdi- ficando fed magnis et fuperabundantijfunis privilegiis clenodius muneribus et donis honorarunt. Animabus eorum propitietur Altijfmus. Thefe following inferiptions are on grave-flones. 1. 4 -A.D. Inc am. mccyiii. Rex Phi¬ lippus Babenberg occif. xi. Kal. Julii 0 4- 2. vni. Idus OR ob. Agnes Filia Friderici Im¬ perator. 3. Anno Domini mccxcviii Adolphus de Naffavoe Rex Romanorum. vi. Non. Ju¬ lii. occif. annov. regni Jui vm. 4. Anne 432 Skipfok. A Journey thro ’ Tart of the [Germ. •aft wft sntivouj 4. At. D. Incar. mxxxviii. Conradui 11 ‘us Imperator 11 Non. jun. ‘otcf snny Anno D. Incarn. ml vi. Henricus III. Niger. III. Non. Ocl. ‘ojcj aoiv j 6 . Anno Incarn. Mcvi. Henricus IIII. Senior. VII Idas Aug. ‘mcf siiipj 7. Anno Incarn. mcxxv. Henricus V junior. X. Kal. Junii. 8. Rudolf hus de Habisburg Romanor. Rex anno regni fui xvm. Anno Rom. 1291. Menfe julio in die divifionis Apoftolorum. 9. Anno Rom. mcccviii Kal. Mali Al. Rom. rexRud. Rom. regis filius occifus anno feq’ti mi. Kal. Septemb. V hie eft Sepultus. 10. VI Kal. Januarii Berchta Imperatrix. The cloifter of this church is paved with nothing elfe but grave-ftones, and hath many monuments in the wall j in the middle of the area of the cloifter is a reprefentation of our Saviour praying on mount Olivet , his difciples afleep by him, and Judas coming to betray him to fol- diers. It is a curious piece of work in ftone, and is covered with a fair tiled ca¬ nopy fupported by pillars *, underneath it is a little chapel. At the weft end of the cathedral is a large porch, and fome diftance from it is a fountain bafon, round the edges whereof is written, ftftuce velit hcec relcgas tit lavx cavits ifte Cathinus Cum novus Ant ifte s Procerum Cmitante Cater va Ur hem hanc intrat Eques hue Bacchi munera fundit Virginis Ateilo cleri ftmul Ecclefiarum Terminus et limes flat libertatis Afylum. Ei fit Confugium , portus , et ara reis. 1^90. The bifhops palace is a fair building. The Jefuits have a Gymnafium here. The Lutherans have a church. The go - The government confifts of four con- vemment . f u ] s and 24 fenators. We faw the chamber where Luther met Charles V. in. rhe impe- In one of the rooms belonging to the rial cham- imperial chamber, is a throne at the upper i>er - end for the Judex Camera, and in a fquare before were benches covered with cloth. The marquefs of Baden is now judge, and in his abfence three prefidents fupply his place, appointed by the emperor. The imperial chamber is a court that confifts of 36 afTeffors, each eleftor and every one of the 10 circles of the empire fending two delegates. This court decides controverfies (that arife between princes of the empire) by majority of votes, and the fubje&s of many princes in lome cafes may appeal hi¬ ther •, but that is feldom known fome princes have jus non Appellationis , among which the prince palatine, which he lately obtained at the diet. There is another chamber of equal power ("they fay) with this, at Vienna. Tobacco is planted hereabouts, and we obferved fome fields of fpelt-corn. July 21, we went by waggon about two German miles and an half, and then were ftopt by the Rhene'% fudden drowning the highway, and the meadows thereabouts, fo that we were forced to ftay a good while in a little village till a boat came from the other fide, which carried us thro’ woods, and over many meadows before we got to the ftream of the river, which we crofs’d over very fafely to Manheim , which is a Manheim. place neatly fortified, and is advantage- oufty fituated at the meeting of the two rivers, the Rhene and the Neccar ; the works are of a large compafs ; the houfes are new, and are low and little, but the ftreets are defigned to be uniform, and all the buildings alike in broad and ftrait ftreets, which are not yet paved ; the wars deftroyed all the old town. The citadel is very neat and large, hav¬ ing curious works, and a deep trench about it, two draw- bridges bring into the area of it, where the prince hath a palace, and the foldiers uniform lodgings building. In this town the prince is inllituting a Gymnafium , and hath beftowed many pri¬ vileges on the inhabitants. The prince Palatine takes great delight in this place, and vifits it very often, and was July 22, here •, he fent for us, and was pleafed very familiarly to difeourfe with us a good while *, Mr. IVillou.ghby de¬ livered him a letter of recommendation he brought with him from doctor JVilkins , who had been the prince’s chaplain when he was in England. We met with feveral of the attendants that fpoke Englijh. We obferved at the chamber door where the prince was, one of his guard with a musket Handing fentinel, and when the prince walked out he had two fuch mufketeers went before, and two followed him. The gate towards the Neccar hath a fair ftone front, and this infeription, ftfuod felix faxit Jehovah Fredericus\l\\ E left or Palatinus Rbeni Rux Bavaria E veteri pago Manbeimo Ad Rbeni Nicrtq • confluvium Juft a fpatiorum dimenftone Nobilem Urbem molitus Vallo , foftfa, muro clauftt Portam bonis Civibus aperuit. Anno Domini mdcx. The prince Palatine intends a medal fo' this town, whereon fhall be written, Et voce blandd ducere quo vellet. On Gem.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 433 Hcidle- feerg. Colleges. On the other fide, Nec fiatu , nec fluclu. This day in the afternoon we hired a waggon, and ferried over great waters, which had drowned a great deal of {land¬ ing corn we could fee under water •, after foine diflance we landed, and rode by a walled town of the prince Palatine called .mile from Manheim , and two hours further leaving a caflle called .... on the left hand (feated on the hills which ran along to Heidleberg ) we arrived at Hei¬ dleberg , firft paffing over a long wooden bridge on ftone arches crofs theNeccar. The bridge is covered on the top, and boarded on each fide ; at both ends of it are guards which examined us a little ; at our inn we wrote our names, which were fent to the governor. We faw feveral of the colleges, which are but indifferent buildings, and tran- fcribed fome infcriptions written on them, viz. i. D. O. M. A. ScreniJJimi Eletioris CARO LI LVDOVICI Collegii Sapient i# Rejlauratoris Gloriof# Clem entice Illujlrium Rerum P. itigurin# Bernenfis Scaphufian# Pietati Munific# Nobilis Ludovici Geen liberalitati exhni# Danielis itojfani Sollicito provifui Sacrum The library is large, and well furniflfd Skippon. with many good books. 3. Conjlanter et Sincere Ingenuo labori Et Solertia D. D. Conlegium bocce Cafimirianum Religionis Orthodox# Do fir in# Exquifit# Facundi# fui generis Artium liberalium Fontem et Seminarium Pojleris Principib. xmulationis Exemplum Suiqj 'Stud, in Academicos Munificent i# Studiofos Anti art conlati in Egenes iTeftimonium Ad aternitatem Palatini nominis A fundamento Extrui fecit abfolvitq Princeps providentijjimus Eruditormnq-, amant ijjimus “Joannes Caf mints Palatinus ad Rhenum Conies Dux. Boiorum Fricierici IV. 'itlit or ac Reipub. Adminiftrator Anno Chrifii cioidxci. This college is better built than the reft. There is another called, 4* Collegium Principis. This prince that now is, intends to ered a new college, which will be called, Reef ore Uviverfitatis job. Henrico Hottingero Tigier. SS. Th. D. et Profejfore Collegii Epboro P. F. Anno falutis reparat# C 1 DIOCLVI. On a book is written, Initium Sapientice Timor Domini. 2 . Jud# ’Triumphator Leo Tuum Leonem Principem Tuere cum . Ut Sacra , jus, et liter as Inter fuos cujlodiens Bonos benignus adjuvet Malos Severus puniat Tibi f delis ferviat. This is called Contubernium , where poor ftudents live very cheap •, here is a hand- fome philofophy fchool, a fquare room. Vol. VI. Collegium Lllujlre , or Lipfianum , becaufe Lipfius was excellent in all forts of learning ; this college being defigned for experiments, &V. as the royal fociety is at London. The profeffors names and pidures are printed in a book. The univerfity of Heidleberg is fre- unherfij. quented by many ftudents, and any one may be matriculated, paying fome fees to the univerfity-officers, and then if he mar¬ ries a citizen’s widow or daughter, he is immediately himfelf a citizen of Hei- The prince Palatine is ftiled by the uni¬ verfity Dominu s & Pair onus nojler. The redor Magnificus is chofen by the major vote of a fenate, which confiils of fixteen profelfors, viz. Three of divi¬ nity, four of law, three of medicine, and fix of philofophy, who have their ftipends 5 $ fixed A Journey thro' Pan oj the fixed by the ftatutes of the univerfity, gi¬ ven by the founder Rupertus. Co. Palat. and confirmed by the pope and emperor •, but four of the philofophy profeffors are admitted into the fenate. This fenate con¬ firms or elects anew the philofophy pro¬ feffors every year, the other profeffors continuing during life, and when one of them dies the fenate nominates two, and the prince appoints one of them to fucceed in the vacant place. The Redlor Magnifi- cus is much like our Cambridge vice-chan¬ cellor in his power. This fenate hath abl'olute power over the ftudents in criminal matters, &c. yet, after fentence, the prince fometimes par¬ dons. The Aidilis , Praefedhts rei Vinarice , Prcefedtus rei frumentariee , Qucefior, &c. are chofen yearly by this fenate. A ftudent, a year or two before, was condemned to die by this fenate ; but being a fubjedt of the king of Denmark , and he interceding, he was fent home into his own country. The Redlor Magnificentifiimus hath no power in the univerfity ; he is always a prince or feme great nobleman : the pre¬ fent prince and his fon have both had this title. This year the earl of Witten- berg is Re cl or Magnificentifiimus , who is not permitted to enter the fenate. The Prcepofitus of the cathedral at Worms is perpetual chancellor of this uni¬ verfity, and fubftitutes a vice-chancellor, who at prefent hath no authority ; only in promotions or conferring of degrees, his leave is asked pro forma. The promoter is ufually the dean of the faculty the graduate is of; which office of promoting every profeffor of the faculty takes by turns. The degrees conferred here are in phi¬ lofophy Magiftri ; but of thefe there have been but few lately, not above three thelaft i o years; Licentiati Dodlores in law and medicine; Baccalaurei,Licentiati & Dodlores in divnity ; of late years there have been butfewdodlorsofdivinity created. Degrees are given without any regard to the time of the ftudent’s being in the univerfity, who is firfl examined by the faculty, the Redlor Magnificus being prefent; and if he be not judged fufficienr, he is required to ftudy for fo long a time as they ap¬ point. When that time comes, he is ex¬ amined by all the profeffors, the Redlor Magnificus being alfo prefent: (the firft ex¬ amination is called Examen tentatorium , the fecond, Rigorofum.) If he be then thought fufficient, he is to difpute publickly fub Pro:fide , and after that he makes a lec¬ ture in his faculty, and a fpeech ; then he asks the vice-chancellor leave, ut del fa- cult at cm Promotori ipfum Promovendd (this is done pro forma , the univerfity not being obnoxious to the vice-chancellor) which being publickly granted, the promoter, in the name of the prince Palatine , and by the leave of the vice-chancellor, pro¬ nounces him dodlor, and bids him afeend in fuperiorem cathedram ; then he kiffes him, puts a ring on his finger, gives him a book firft fhut, then open, and laftly puts on his cap. The graduate fwears, by touching with his finger the two beadles maces fet up leaning one againft another, whilft the Syndicus , who is regi- fter of the univerfity, reads the oath. After all thefe ceremonies the profef¬ fors are feafted by the graduate in a great room called the Prytaneum , which is alfo ufed as divinity fchools; the prince him- felf, or the marfhal of his houfe, is pre¬ fent at the feaft. To fave charges, two or three candidates endeavour to be pro¬ moted together. The government of Heidleberg city is in four burgomafters and a prretor. The city is divided into four quarters. Here are five jurifdidtions, i. Aulica , under which are the nobility, the mar¬ fhal of the prince’s houfe prefiding : 2. Cancellarice , which comprehends the counfellors, dodtors of law, advocates, &c. 3. Bellica, the general of the army being prefident: 4. Academica , wherein the above-mentioned fenate governs, and the Redlor Magnificus prefides: 5. Civica. The members of each of thefe jurif- didtions may refufe to be try’d by any but their own court and judge; before whom the adtor muft implead them ac¬ cording to the maxim in law, Actor fe- quitur forum rei. The prince Palatine can make laws and repeal them, treat with foreign princes, make war and peace, and impofe tributes arbitrarily on his fubjedls without the confent of any. Many of the princes of Germany being limited in their power, can lay no taxes on their people without the confent of the ftates of their country, as the earl of Wirtenberg. He hath feven councils or courts, viz. 1. Concilium Auguftum , or his privy coun¬ cil ; 2. Concilium Status ; 3. Concilium Ec- clefiafticum , confifting of two divines and two laymen; 4. the Dicafierium, which judges civil caufes; 5. Concilium feudale ; 6. Concilium redituum Ecclefiafiic. 7. Ca¬ mera rationum Ecclefiafiic arum. The prince eledtor Palatine hath thought fit to keep both thefe laft diftindt, partly, that he may know how to proportion the mini- fters allowances, and partly, that in cafe any of his fucceffors fhould change their religion (as it is common for princes to Germ'.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 435 do to and fro in Germany) they may be able to diflinguifh clearly between their own temporal and the church revenues. The emperor hath nothing to do with this country fubje&s, who fwear fealty only to the prince, who confers honours; but they are not regarded out of his country. There are many fupreme lords, who are abfolute in their fmall jurifdidlions, independant on the prince Palatine , ac¬ knowledging none their fuperior but the emperor. The like jurisdictions are in the territories of other princes. There are five families of the prince Palatine houfe, i. the duke of Simeran , 2. Newburgh, who lately did homage to the prince Palatine , o. Dupont , 4. Swolf- bach , 5. De la petit Pierre. Zcclepafli- The prince Palatine is fupreme head in ealgtvern- ecclefiafiical affairs, formerly under the bifhop of Spire , but, fince the reforma¬ tion, the prince Palatine hath feized on the revenues of the church, and affumed to himfelf the epifcopal power, he only excommunicating. He receives all tithes, except thofe which in fome places he or¬ ders immediately to be paid to the mi- nifter of the place. The greatefl part of the church-rents is given in ftipends, which are proportioned according to the minifter’s merit and the prince’s difere- tion, who alfo difpofes of vacant places as he pleafes ex. gr. When a benefice is void, the Concilium Eccleftafticum nomi¬ nates two perfons to the prince, who be¬ llows it on one of them, or commands the council to name others. The Palatinate is divided into 13 Prx- fellurce, which are fome of them fubdivi- ded into lelfer. Each hath its infpe&or, who is paflor of fome church, and who gives information of bufinefies to the Concilium Ecclef. and that council, if need be, ac¬ quaints the prince with them. The in- fpe&or differs not from the other mini- ilers, bur in his having a larger flipend, and in giving notice to the fuperior in- fpe&or, if there be any over him. Every great town or prefecture hath a presbytery ex gr. In Heidelberg are five city miniflers, two deputies from each quarter, and two from each jurifdi&ion, the Aidica excepted, 21 in all, the five miniflers prefiding by turns. This p*ef- bytery fits once a week, and there is al¬ ways prefent a delegate from the prince, who hath no fuffrage, but obferves what is done, and fees that nothing be acted to the prejudice of the court, or that con¬ cerns not the presbytery. They can make no church cenfure, without they firft fend the perfon accufed to the jurifdi&ion he belongs to, defiring the offence may be enquired into by that jurifdi&ion ; which, Skippon, upon fuch notice, either neglefts it alto- gether, or, if the crime be worthy of punifhment, they draw up his fentence, and, in the dole of it, add, Quoad Scan- dalum Ecclefia datum remittimus te ad pref- byterium. I hen all the confillory can do, is, to urge a confefiion from the party, with an acknowledgment of his fault before the congregation, and a pro- mife of amendment for the future. I he concilium Ecclefiafiicum ordains mi- nifters by laying on of hands, after exa¬ mination and teflimonials from the uiver- fity, or perfons of known credit. The prince Palatine and the duke of Saxony are vicars of the empire. In the church called Hill the Francifcans , Francif- within the choir, is an ancient monument C3ns of D'na Comitijfa de Namer. And on a churcl} - wall is inferib’d, Epitaphium Hermolai Barbari Veneti Patri¬ arch a Aquilegienfis in obilum Rudolphi Agricolce Frifn. Invicla clauferunt hoc marmore fata Rodol- phum Agricolam Frifii fpemq •, decufq-, foli. Scilicet hoc vivo meruit Germania laudis Quicquid habet Latium Gracia quicquid habet. | Rodolphi Agricolce Phrifi't j? 4 s Memorise pofuit Vigilius -| Jj Zuichemus § Obiit anno mcccclxxxv J 3 Die xxvi 11 oblob. § £ Vixit an nos xliii menfes 11. §i In a little chapel on the north fide, is an old monument with this infeription. Anno Dom. mcccclxxiiii Ifo die Galli O. Venerab. & nobil. Dominus Fredericus Illuftrijfwii Principis & Domini Domini Friderici Com. Palatini Reni Ducis Bava¬ ria Sac. Romani Imperii Arcbidapiferi ac Principis Elecloris Filius legitimus Eccle- fiarumq ; bVoerm. & Spirenf. Canoni - cus, cujus animee requiefcat in pace. Another monument with this written about it, Fridericus Bavarice Dux Comes Rhe. Pala- tinus , facri Romanilmperii Elector , Salus patrice, Preedonum fulmen , trcs-illujlres hojles vicit , principalum auxit , & pie vi- vis excejfit. Anno Cbrijli 1476. prid. id. Decembris ; fuit ejus Vita: virtus, folatium , gloria , mortis comes. Under- 436 Skippon. A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Gem . Gnat church. Underneath his effigies lies a grave- flone, with aferpent, and part of his ske¬ leton, carved on it, reprefenting the po- fture of his bones in his grave, when there was found a ferpent creeping out of his back-bone. In the great church the famous Heidel¬ berg library was kept, which is now in the Vatican at Rome. Here are many grave-flones (fome of which are difficult to read) and fair mo¬ numents of feveral of the Palatinate fa¬ mily. The infcriptions of many I wrote our, viz. In high Butch is written on a grave- flone what in Latin fignifies, 1. Anno Domini 1219. Sibilla Com. Pal. R. Sup. (P Infer. Bav. D. Ludovici Co. P. Rh. Vxor. 2. Illuftris Dominus Philip pus Comes Pala- tinus Rheni Bavarue Dux , ac facri Romani Imperii Archidapifer (ft Prin- ceps Elector hie quiefeens obiit die xvm menjis Februarii Anno Chrifti mccccviii. cujus animee requiefcat in Jan cl a pace. Amen. 3. Robertas Bavarice Dux Rhe. Palatinus Romanorum Rex juftuspads et religionis animatur dignus Deo vifus qui pro ju- Jlitia pateretur hujus faercs cedis (ft col- legii inftituor, hie cum caftiffmia con- juge Elizabetha Norici Montisburgravia quiefeit vita fundus. Anno Chrifti mccccx Kal. Junii xv. This monument Hands in the middle of the choir, with flatues about it. 4. Anno Domini mccccxlix .... Illuftris Princeps Dominus Ludovicus junior Co¬ mes Palatinus Rheni. S. R. I. Ar. prin¬ ceps Elector Ba. D. c. a. r. in pace. 5. Anno Chrifti 1501. 25 Februarii obiit Illuftris Princeps Domina Margareta Dei Gratia Comes Palatina Rheni In- ferioris Superiorifq-, Bavarice. Dux cujus anima in fan da pace requiefcat. 6. Germania merito luget funus Illuftrifftmi Domini Ludovici Comitis Palatini Rhe¬ ni Duds Bavarice facri Ro. Imp. Archi- dapiferi principis Elector, qui propter multas difeordias tumultufqper fe furn- 7na cum prudentia turn fumptu feduloq ; compofit. pacifici nomen meruit, obiit 16 . die March. Anno Domini 1544. rEta¬ ils fuce 66. cut Deus mifereatur ii? (Sternum. This is under a brafs figure in the wall. 7. Philipps Von Gotterge naden Pfaltzgraf Bey Rein , Hertzog in Nidern , und. Obern Bairn, (Pc. ift alhie zu Haidel- berg, (Pc. 1548. In the body of the church, againfl a pillar, is a monument thus inferib’d 8. Caetera qui circum luftras monument a Viator Ilaec quod non longa ejl perlege pauca 7)io ra Si Ducis audita eft forfan tibifama Philippi Clara Palatinae quern tulit aida Domus. Qui modo Pannoniam defendit ab hofte Vi- ennam E t ftolvit trepidos obfidione viros, Fline cum Fhrecii vaftarent omnia Furcae Et tremerent fubita Norica regna metu. Mox etiam implevit magnum virtutibus orbem Utilis hinc armis utilis inde toga. Illius hac tegitur corpus venerabile terra Hie animam hie vitam reddidit ille Deo Quo te ft pietas, ft quid movet inclyta Virtus fund a (ft cum fumma nobilitate ftdes Huic opt a ut genesis placida cum pace qui- efcant Condita nec tellus durior ojfta premat Nam pius ad Coeli fublatus J'piritus arces Cum Chrifto vivit tempus in omne fuo DeceJJit JUi Non. Julii Anno Domini m. d. xlviii Allatis fuae xliiii cujus. p.f. memoriae Dux Otho Henricus Comes Pa¬ latinus Frater amantiftimus M. H. F. C. Anno Domini M. D. L. On the marble are carved arms, camps, (Pc. 9. Frid. iv. Lud. F. Frid. Nep. Com. P. Rh. S. R. I. E. Dux Bav. nato Am¬ ber gae. 5 Martii 1574. qui funwiae re¬ rum praefuit. An. 1 fundament a Uni¬ ons pro relig. (ft libertate inter Princi- pes jecit. pie in Chrifto obiit 9. Sept. 1610. Patri bene merito Fil. Fi~id. V. Eled. (P S. R. L Vicarius II. M. P. An. Sal. rep. 1610. This is a flately monument in the middle of the choir. 10. Illuftrif. Princ. (P D. Dorn. Frid. 2. Com. Pal. Rh. D. Bav. S. R. I. Archidap. Pri. Eled. (Pc. qui obiit Altrees 1556. 26. Feb. /Et. 74. In the body of the church is this fol¬ lowing infeription. 11. Illu- Germ. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 11. IlluftriJJimo Prin.& Dom.D. Wolphan- go Com. P. Rhen. D. Bav. & Philippi Eleff. Filio inter eos qui ad juftam xta- tem pervenerunt natu minimo , Principi honitate ingenii, honefta frugalitate avi- tifque moribus fervandis prxftanti forte fii-i mediocri per omnem Vitam con - tento^ Illiiftriffimus Princeps Frid. Ill . Elec. &c. H. Monum. Cotifanguineo Ca~ riffmo fieri curavit. Natus efi An. 1494. tilt. Off. Exempt us rebus humanis. 2. April. 1558. In the middle of the choir, is, 12. Otho Henricus Pal. Com. Rhen. S. R. /. Septem vir Dux Utriufq • Bavarix, ut Ludovici Pii Roberti Cxf. F. Pofterorum ultimus^fic renatx Ev angelic x pur it at is Infiaurator primus vivus fibi P. natus x April. 1502. obiit 12. Feb. 1559. 13. Sereniffmx Heroinx Regiaq ; fiirpe prognatx Dorn. Dorothea Com. P. Rh. Ban:. D. Regnorum Danix, Suecix ac Norwegix Principi ac Hxredi 0 Fle¬ et oris Contorali dileFtiffimx , qux ob. .. . Frid. III. DG. Com. Pal. R.S.R.I. Archi- dap. ac Pr. Eleffi. Bav. D. &c. Agnatis ac confanguineis charijfimis optimique mentis H. M. gratitudinis ergo pofi Anno 1562. This and the 10th infeription are on a tomb in the body of the church. In the choir is a handfome monument with two inferiptions in Dutch , which dignify. Sic exaltabitur filius hominis. Joh. hi. Sic deus dilexit mnndum. Joh. III. Sic facict corpora nofira. Philip, in. Sic filius hominis triduurn man chit in corde terree. Matth. xii. Viditq ; Deus c unit a quee fecerat , erant valde bona. Gen. 1. 18. Confianter & fine ere JOANNI CAS IMIRQ Frid. m. Eledl. F. Comiti Palatino ad Rhenum Duci Bavarix Pro-Septemviro , Ffui fibi vixit nunqu. Reipub. Chrijl. femper, quam Domi Militixqi Strenue juvit atque ornavit rehgione Orthodoxa , Scho/is bonarum artium Inftrumentis Gallia & Belgica A gravijf. periculis vindicata , Auraque perpetua in hoc evigilavit , Ut concors patria a vi fraudeque Externa tutior ftabili quiete Cum dignitate frueretur omni Denique ojficio principis Laudatiff. Confianter et fincere perfundtus Autoritalisfiuce , (A virtutisfummx Humanitati conjunties trifle Defiderium bonis reliquit omnibus FRID. IF. ELECT. Patruo tutorique de fie optime merito P. Obiit poilrid. Nonas Januarii CIO IOXCI I. xEtatis An. xli ix. menf. x. MDLXXXVIII. 19. Ona little grave-ftone. 14. Maria Uxor Frid. 3. per 30 ami. 4. Ifie Palatina prognatusfiirpe puellus, menf. B 28 dies. 6 peperit filios & 5 Ipfefubpartu vitam cumfunere folvit. filias ■, ob. ult. Otlob. i$ 6 n. xtat. 48. & In Chrifio dormit> vita fruiturque beata. j I CPRDBCFE SMFDTCMDOMS 15- Frid. 3. Fil. Ruperti. ob. 26. OClob. 1576. x tat is 62. 16. Elizabetba Comes Palat. Elelirix Philippi Landgravii Hefiiae filia Vixit anuos xlii Relid a tern a prole Piii obiit Haidelbergae ~xlv martii Anno MDLXxxit. 17 . Lrdovicus Cm.’cs Palatinus Fr d. F. S. Rom. Imperii Eleffor Dux Bavariae Pietate & dementia infignis I r ixit anuos xljv rei Palatinae praefuit A. VII. obiit Haidlebergae pie in Chnft Xil OHob. MDLXXXIII. Thefe two preceding inferiptions are under both their ltatues j likewife thefe following fentences. Vol. VI. 20. D. Ludovicus JVilhelmus Com. Pal. D. Bavarix natus 25 Sept. 1600. obiit 30 Sept, eodem. 21. D.Anna Leonora Com. Pal. D. Bav. nata 2$Decemb. 1598. ob. 24 Mail. 1600. 22. Serenijf. Principis D. Frid. Eletl. Pal. Soboles prxmortua D. Mauritius Chrifti- anus Com. Pal. Bav. D. natus 8 Sept. 1601. obiit 18 Mar. 1605. Thefe three laft inferiptions are on a pretty monument, with three effigies on it. On the roof of the choir are the piftures of thefe four perfons, with their names written, viz< 1. Rupertus Romanorum rex , hujus Chori & Collegii Fundator. 5 T 2. Eliza - 437 Skippon. 43 b Skippon. A Journey thro ’ 2. Elizabetha Regina Romanorum. 3. Ludovicus Comes Palatinus , Regis Filius, hujus Collegii Confummator. 4. Fomina Planchia Filia regis Anglia, Uxor ejus. In the ifles of the choir are thefe two fol¬ lowing monuments, viz. 1. lllufiri memoriae Ottonis Comitis Sol- in enjis Dynajla in Muntzenberg IVilden- fels 3 Sonne wold ; is Adolefccus mufis operatus adultior heroico injlinffu Marti devotv.s primis Jlipendiis quadriennio Gallicis , pofi fub Manritio Auraica Bel- gicis equitum Dudlor confpic. jundla Jibi uxore generofa Urfula Comitis G lei chi ana, inde J'ereniJJi. Eledl. Palat. Frid. iv. prater 10 legionijque lauds continual pra- Jeffus, ac interea ad Gallia 3 Magna Britannia reges , 3 S. imperii Proceres Lev at us, tandem in Alfatica Moltza obfidione die 24 Junii An. mdcx. a tat. xxxix. abfque prole in pugna gloriofe cecidit digms magnorum Avorum , Pa¬ rent uni Germanorum Fratcr , Filins , Nepos. Conjux ac Fratres moeftijjimi contra mot urn hoc monumentum pofuere. .2. Exfulum Sufceptori S. Hulderico Fuggero Raymundi F. Georg. N. 'Jacobi Pron. Kirchberga 3 IVeijfenhorni Domino, ghii in Pauli 111 • P P. Cubiculo Veritatis lumen ex farailia Primus 3 folus agnovit Vitamque privatam Amplijf. dignitatibus anteferre Didicit, Dum veterurn feriptis liberali fumptu Comparandis 3 evulgandis intent us Apatrimon. admin, profufionis Pratextu dejicitur , Apud Fridericum 111 . EleSlorem Palat. Fortunam conjlantia 3 aquanim. Supera-vit Suis in terra rejiitutus, fraternis Fhfmttiam bonis auditor eundem In re lauta quem in afflifla Vultum animumq-, retinuit , Annua pauperibus qningenta legavit Sex liter, ftudiofis Jlipendia , Conjlituit Bibliothecampii exjilii unicam comitem Palatinatui moriens donavit. CIOIDXXCXV. Obiit xviii. Kal. Jul. At at is li ix. Hxrcdes 3 Legatarii Part of the [ Germ. Grata memoriaergo Confanguineo 3 hofpiti B M Hocce Mon. P. At St. Peter's church we faw a great st. Peter'* number of monuments, both on the infide church. and the outfide of the wall ; the mofl re¬ markable without were of Rhinerus ProfeJJ. Job. Jugenitius Log. DoSl. Job. Sigifmeus Lavingarius LV.D. Within are the monuments of Quirinus Reuterius D. Simo Stenius Hifloricus , Gafper Agricola , Curio , Henricus Smetius, Daniel Fojfanus, Culmarius , Petrus Beutrichus, Buchpacheus , Johan. Meierus , Georg. Sohn. F. D. Matth. Lannoius, Gerhardus Pajlo- rius , Melchior Then. Ludov. Chrijloph. Rhinerus F. Dodo Maninga Frifiv.s vulnera- tus a milite , Melchior Angerus , Petrus d Strithagen Aquifgranenfii , a famous mini- fter, who died 1655. Fridericus Widebranns Vitam Belgia Vranx genus Duacum Artes Adonic as Dedere leges Heidelberg e, mihi Dedit necemve Vitam rejlituet Dens perennem. Anno 158. . M.S. Hie fubincluduntur mortales exuvis Viri nobilifjimi Dom. Benjamini Fichbornii , Equitis j~ h Anglicani Omnis folidioris literatures PeritiJJimi , Imprimis Vtree pie tat is ejufq ■, devotee praxeos Cultoris religiofijfimi , Nati 14 Man, Anno Salutis mdc. Denati 25 Maii, A. C. mdclx. Cui Withus Fitchbornus Ex fratre nepos H. M. P. C. During our flay in Heidleberg , the prince Ca r t } t ani i elector palatine lent Mr. Rookezvood (an princes Englijh gentleman that is an attendant on palace. this court) to bring us up to his palace, where we fpent the greateft part of a day at dinner and lupper, and in the prince’s and chief courtiers converfation. The palace is feated on a hill, and is fairly 14 In¬ built within a caftle, which is encompafled with a deep trench hewn out of the rock, that may be filled with water. Without the caftle are pleafant gar¬ dens, and round about them are fair grotto’s Germ.'] Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 439 Exornandum curavit. Anno Dom. mdcvii. Star pon'. grotto’s cut out of the rock ; the greatefh part of thefe grotto’s were left unfiniffied by this prince’s father. Over the entrance of the grotto that is finifhed, is the flatue of the gardener, in the fame po- ilure he received the prince when he firft came into the garden. Here are many pretty water-works, viz a lyon fucking up water, the fpringing of water out of a flower-pot, a ball playing upon the top of a fir earn that is forced up, a conical cap of tin born up by the fame ftream, which reprefents a periwig, the water is fhaped like great drinking glades, water playing on the organs, and water fpringing out of the pavement and the fides of the grotto. In one of the grotto’s the water petrifies as it drops. In the garden lies a great figure of an old man, which reprefents the river Rhene ; which figure fpouts water out a great heighth. Another figure reprefents the river Neccar. Here are two little ponds for fwans to keep in. In the middle of two garden-plots are two flones •, the infcription on one is, Fridericus plantavit xiv Decemb . A. C . MDCXV. On the other, Elizabetha plantavit x 1 v Decemb. A. C. MDCXV. The caflle gate is of curious carved work in done, and over it was the Avia - nu?n, and this infcription, viz. Fridericus V. Elizabeths Conjugi CarijJ] A. C. m dcxv. F. C. On the palace building are many ftatues of the gods, virtues, &c. and 16 ftatues of princes from Carolus M. to Frid. 4. On the gate that leads into the palace, is a Dutch infcription, fignifying the building of it by Ludovicus V. 1519. The palace was built at three feveral times, one part is called the Engli/h huWd- ing. On the chapel is infcribed, Fridericus Comes Palatinus Rheni S. Rom. imperii Eleftor, Dux Bavaria ?, hocpalatium Divino cultui & com mods Habitation.i extruendum & Majorum Juorum imaginibus In the court are feveral ancient pillars brought hither by Carolus M Under¬ neath the ftatue of Mercury is written, MERCVRO FI MON IA VIFFVO. An organ in the chapel, and a fair done pulpit. Under one of the towers is a cellar Great tun. where the great tun flood, which held 132 fuders. At this time a new one was building, which is to hold 150 fuders (a fuder being equal to four hogfheads. ) A pair of flairs leads up to the top of the tun, where was a gallery for perfons to fit, and drink in. Many other veftels for wine in other cellars, which are large veftels, neatly made, and called the whelps; 16 of them are equal to the great tun. Before dinner, the prince pafs’d by the door of the room, and, with his own hand, received the petitions delivered by perfons that flood there. A guard of 30 Switzers brought up the meat to the prince’s table, which hath a canopy over it. Several ftrangers fat down with the prince. Two tables more in the fame room, one for the marfhal, avith whom we dined ; the other for the officers of the family : all things were ordered with great decency, little noife, and no de¬ bauchery. In the hall adjoyning to this room. Hand two pillars of ftone in the middle; one of them ftands a little awry, having been fhot twice with a cannon bullet about the middle of it, where there now flicks a bullet that beat out another ; which fhots broke away part of the pillar now repaired. The firft bullet was fhot by the duke of Bavaria’s party ; and the lafl by the prince palatine’s foldiers. In this palace we faw a fallow deer fpeckled with white, and a tame wolf. Be¬ tween the walls of the caflle is a large broad pafiage, that goes round underneath, which is ufed for cellars and other necefiary offices. From the caflle is a fair profpetl of the city, river Neccar , and the Level country about the Rhene. Here is a new fortifica¬ tion which commands the Neccar. After dinner the prince fent for us into a withdrawing room, where he was pleafed to ftiew us great kindnefs, and entertained us with difeourfe concerning feveral things. Here we faw a very good wind-gun, clear flones made out of pebbles, a purfe made of alumen plumofum by a monk of - order 44 ° tyl Journey thro ’ Part of the [Germ. SniproN. -order in Sicily. This purfe we threw into a chafing diili of hot coals, and let it lie till it was red hot, and then took it out again, without any prejudice to the purfe. The prince We fpent moll of the afternoon with the El.library. p r j nce i n his library, which is well furni- fhed with choice books in all languages. His highnefs was exceeding affable, and willing to fhew us his colledlion of coins, both modern and ancient, which he was very well fkill’d in the knowledge of as to all particulars. He hath a feries of Co ns. Roman coins in gold, and another in filver. We faw a coin of Virgil and his Mcecenas. Among hisconfulary and Greek medals we law Philip , Alexander , Epaminondas , Themi- Jlocles, and many commonwealths of Greece ; Hebrew, Arabic and Perftan , Numidian or Gothijh coins; feveral common-wealths of Sicily and Magna Gracia \ the coins of all the princes in Germany in gold, &c. the medals of the moft remarkable fieges of late years in Europe , and monies of feve¬ ral nations in gold and filver, (Ac. a Swe- dijh dollar, being a large fquare piece of brafs, ftampt at the four corners, and in the middle, a gold medal for the young prince, whofe name (Carolus ) and picture is on it •, and on one fide is written, Juvat ufqwe morari. We faw here the globe of Rupertus the emperor, which was adorn’d with jewels, and Rupertus his crown very richly fet with precious ftones. Other very valuable jewels are in the prince palatine’s poffeffion •, a picture of the emperor’s crown, fword and globe. The prince told us, that Conradus the emperor added the arch over the imperial crown, and that formerly the prince palatine carried the globe before the emperor, but now he car¬ ries the fword, and the duke of Bavaria hath the globe. We faw two fair and full unicorns horns, and a great boar’s tooth, which winds al- moft into a perfedl circle. We faw alfo feveral of the prince palatine’s anceftors pictures curioufly carved in wood, and kept within little boxes : and among the coins we obferved thefe, viz. of Geleton a city in Greece , Ptolomy , ifiands of Greece , Rhodes , the fieges of Leyden , Harlem , Bredah , New- arke , &c. the battle of Lipfick , &c. In a gallery we faw many pictures, one very large, reprefenting the family of this prince, wherein were his father, mother, brothers, (Ac. This prince palatine’s name is Carolus Ludovicus , who fpeaks thefe fix langua¬ ges, viz. i. Latin , 2. Italian , 3. French , 4. Englijh , 5. High-Dutch , and 6. Low- Dutch. He is married to Charlotte the landgrave of Ilejfia his filler, with whom he lived two or three years, and by her hath two children fnow living) a fon, young prince Charles , and a daughter, both very hand- fom •, but the prince not enduring his wife’s ill conditions, he feparated himfelf from her, and entertained one Dagger field , the daughter of a gentleman belonging to the duke of IVirtenberg , by whom he hath had four natural children. The prince al¬ lots his wife one part of the palace, and his miftrefs another part: the firft was at this time drinking the waters of Swolback. The court was now in mourning for prince Edward the elector palatine’s bro¬ ther, who died lately at Paris. His high¬ nefs is very diligent in minding his affairs, and his fubjedts have a great aftedtion for him. He gave orders we fhould pay no¬ thing at our inn while we flaid at Heidle- berg. The upper lieutenant or governor of the city fpake very good Englijh , having been in our late civil wars. He told us, there came fo many ftrangers that pafs through this place, that he ufually fpends every night about half an hour in reading their names for the inn-keepers, (Ac. are obli¬ ged to fend their lodgers names every night. We were much beholden to this gentleman. And to the afore-mentioned Mr. Rooke- wood (a Suffolbnan) who had formerly been a Carthufian monk. He told us, he was tranflator of the myftery of jefuitifm out of French into Englijh •, and that there was lately fent hence a troop of horfe to affifl the emperor againft the Turks. The prince palatine hath three fillers, ihe three one married to the duke of Brunfwick , and M ers another, elder, to whom Cartefius dedi- cated - - - and Schooten his book - - - Loyfe, She is Prospofita of a monaftery in Erfurt , Sophia, but is herfelf a proteftant, it being ufual in Germany for Roman catholic princes to be¬ llow church preferments on proteftants, and for proteftant princes to give Roman catholics preferments. All the prince’s foldiers are clad in blue. They guard the city gates. Heidleberg is indifferently built, but hath a double wall and trench about it. In the flreets are fe¬ veral fountains. Very good orders are kept here in the night, tho’ we obferved great numbers of people in the day, by reafon of a fair, which lafled the time we flaid. We faw here a whore paffing with a Nu- mella about her neck. The citizens can raile two companies of foot, and one troop of horfe, which are under the governor’s command while they are in arms. In the city fuburbs is the prince’s liable, The which is very flately, of a great length, E'ff 1 pav’d with free-flone, and fupported by J J ‘‘ two 3 Germ.~\ Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 441 two rows of ftone pillars, having a foun¬ tain in the middle of it. Not many hor- fes in it at this time, the difeafe being here, and moll: of them fent into the fer- vice againft the Turks. There are pleafant gardens without the inward wall of the city. Ro?nan coins, and other antiquities are found hereabouts. The ruins of an old temple are fiill to be feen on a hill over- againft Heidleberg ; and, on a hill above the palace, is a ftone they call Koningjtal. The prince palatine tolerates lutherans and papifts, which latter have a church without the walls, that, in the morning, is dreft up with pictures, lamps and images; but, after rnafs, &c. is done, all thofe things are prefently remov’d, and the proteftants have the ufe of the fame church. The lutherans have lately built a church in the city, and have made a grateful in- fcription on it to the prince. Jews. The jews are allowed to live here ; but, as yet, are denied the public exercife of their religion. Since the inftrument of peace was pro¬ claimed, the people of this country have recruited themfelves very much. We were informed, that the prince pala¬ tine intends to build a nunnery for thofe of the Benedibline order, in confideration of fome benefit he hath received by the ex¬ change of a town. The upper palatinate now belongs to the duke of Bavaria. We were extremely obliged to one Dr. Fabricius a profeftor, to whom we deliver’d recommendatory letters. He informed us of many of the foregoing particulars. Joachimus Camerarius his nephew lives in this city, whom we endeavour’d to vifit, but he was abroad when we came to his houfe. July 25th, we went by waggon through woods ; and, about two hours from Heidle¬ berg , came by a cloifter of capuchins belonging to the bifliop of Spire and, fome diftance farther, we rode through a pafs or gate guarded by French foldiers of the garifon of Pbilipsbourg , not far off on the right hand. It is a well-fortified place, fituated in a level near the Rhene fide, and is about three German miles from Heidle¬ berg. In that garifon town is a fair caftle and palace. About a German mile farther we pafTed through Graffe , a fmall place, where our waggoner paid toll to fome offi¬ cers of a caftle here, that belongs to the marquis of Tourlacb •, and half a mile from hence, we arrived, at this night’s lodging, in a village call’d Linkenom, in the jurifdi- dtion of the fame marquis, who is a luthe- ran. The country hereabouts is a plain, ftor’d with pine woods, Gtc. Vol. VI. July 26th, we travelled four German Skitpon. miles to our baiting place at Rajlack,ahrge village •, and two miles farther, part thro’ Stolebovcn , a little wall’d town with de- , cay’d buildings, where our waggoner paid a toll •, and, after another mile, came to another wall’d place call’d Licbtenow , both which lafl places are the marquis of Ba¬ den's ; and, half an hour from Licbtenow , we lodged in a village named Sertz belong¬ ing to the earl of Hanaw. This day we pa'ft through woods. We obferv’d the innkeepers, &c. in this journey to be very kind and civil. Between Heidleberg and Licbtenow grew great ftore of Turky wheat. July 27. We pafs’d thro’ fome waters, and over many bridges, and crofs’d a pret¬ ty river which runs into the Rhene , which hath a bridge over it, where we pafs’d, a little before we entred the city of Strasburg , Strasburg. at the gates whereof foldiers examin’d us. That bridge is fhaped like an S, having pieces of timber laid loofe on it fas on other bridges hereabouts) to take away upon a fudden occafion. A guard of foldiers Hands at the entrance of the bridge. A fhort fpace from it we went over another ffream of the Rhene , and pafs’d clofe by a little fort, and paid three wifpennies at agate. This day we travell’d about three German miles. After we came to our lodgings, we lent our names to the burgo-mafters of Strasburg. In this city is an univerfity, having a University. cloiller’d building where are chambers for lfudents ; and the choir of a church, which we guefs’d might be the place the do< 51 ors are promoted in. In the divinity fchool we heard a lefture of Dr. Smichteus. Over the entrance of this fchool (which is a large fair room) is written, Aufpice Deo Opt. Max. Procuranlibus Am[lifftmis Dr. D. D. Scbolarchis Joan. Philippo d Kellenbeim Prcetore Abrabamo Heldio Confute Jofia Rbulio Iredeo Acroafin banc ufui publico S P Sf Argentinenfis P P. Anno mdxc. In the cloifter is this infeription. Juventuti religione chrijliana & dif iplinis liberalibus injlituendae Jacobo Sturmio Nicolao KnielejJio & Jacobo Mciero lite- raiorum praefeths bunc Indian S P If Argent. P. F. Anno mdxxxvjii depofilis armis & placata inter Carolutn V. Rom. Imp. & Francif- cum I. Galliar. Reg. gravi difeordi. The di vines walk in their gowns, have- ing round capes, and a great round cap 5 U on A Journey thro’ Part of the [Germ. on their heads. See the habits of Straf- burg , and the profefiors names printed. The womens habits are alfo printed. There are 71 in the magiftracy, which confifts of 20 magiftrates: 6 burgomafters, one in office every year: 6 ftadtmafters, who are chofen out of the nobility, but take an oath given them by the people ; four of them in office every year: 15 Pat res P atria : 13 for the militia : 31 others, whofe particular offices we — could not learn, our interpreter not 71 well underftanding the informer. Many of thefe 71 are gentlemen, but moft of them are citizens, and are all chofen for life by a council of 300, that are elected 15 out of each of the 20 trades or tribes the city is divided into, having 20 chambers to confult in. If any of the 71 dies, the 300 chufe another into the place after this manner : ex. gr. a burgomafter dying, another is elected into his place five years after ; and when a magiftrate dies, half a year, if he had been in office the other half, or a year after ; for none can be chofen into a burgomafter or magiftrate’s place, till the courfe of him that is dead, comes about again. If a ftadtmafter dies, they chufe his fucceffor eight days after. If any of the 15 or 13 dies, they deft fuccefiors before the deceafedare buried. The votes of the 300 being equal in the choice of a burgomafter, then the 15 P. Patri.e examining the fuffrages, if there be two competitors, give a piece of gold to one, and a piece of filver to the other, each piece being fecretly wound up in two diftinft papers; this done, the 15 afk the 300, whether the gold or the filver fhall have the place ; and by name- ing one, that perfon is eleded who hath it. What cannot be decided in any of the 20 chambers, the 71 determines; and if the 300 divide their voices in the eledion of other officers, the 71 makes a con- clufion. In this city are feven Lutheran churches, one papift church, two convents for men and two for women. The reformed that five here have a church an hour’s di- ftance from the town, in the territory of the earl of llanaw. The earl of Furjlcnburg is lately chofen bifhop of Strasburg ; but the citizens will not fuffer him to lodge here in an inn above eight days, nor in his own palace above three days together. The women here are generally hand- fome, and of a good complexion. The ordinary fort of maids and young wo¬ men twift their hair with a firing into two long braids, which hang down be¬ hind them. The people are very induftrious. Strasburg is large, and fairly built with ftone and timber houfes. The market¬ place is a little fquare. The butchery is very handfome, and nigh the water-fide, being the more convenient, becaufe all their cattle are kill’d here. The fortifications are very ftrong, there being a double wall ; and on one fide is a trench without and another with¬ in a wall. In the trench without the out¬ ward wall we faw many carps, which are fed like thofe at Frankfurt. On the gate are thefe inferiptions, MDLXIII. S P Argentinenfis Portam hanc aggere & foffa muniri fecit Anno Domini mdlii. menfe maio. Praftdio Civibus. Henrico Gallorum Rege militem in Carolum V. Imp. Auguflum per hanc Germanise partem ducenle. Ferrari Hojlibus. The river Elle runs thro’ part of the city, and is a clear ftream mingling here with the Rhene , which is of a muddy or whitifh colour. Water pafies thro’ two or three of the ftreets. Juft without the walls great quantity of Aqua Vitce is made, none being fuf- fer’d to make any within the city. They mingle here with their wine, an Add ms- acid water, which is brought 10 hours ten off from Sowreburne , not far from Stut- ^ owrc ' , 3 burne. gard. Every day about 11 of the clock, a bell is rung, and then all perfons, where - foever they are, fay fome prayers, as the papifts do at the ringing of the Ave Mary bell. Our merchant was one Heern , who was very civil to us. The arfenal confifts of three large and Afenal. long houfes, each houfehaving two rooms, well ftored with all forts of arms; among which we obferv’d thefe following parti¬ culars : a huge jaw-bone of a whale ; three brafs guns, 20 foot long apiece, which, they told us, would carry a mile; four new brafs guns call’d the four ele¬ ments ; a brafs pot which was fent from Zurich with hot bry made of buckwheat, &V. the meaning of it was, that the city of Zurich would give this city afiiftance afioon as they fent this pot; four other great Germ.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 443 A foldier eight foot and an half high. Great church. Great clock. great pots or kettles which are us’d when lotteries are made. The duke of Ef- fernoVs arms Hand in a prefs ■, they are richly inlaid with gold, and are va¬ lu’d at 300 crowns of gold. This duke was governor of Metz in Lorrain. Many mufkets inlaid with ivory, which are cal¬ led Spanijh hooks, the fhoulders of them being crooked ; a chariot with five guns and feven long fwords; another chariot with nine pikes, and underneath, a little piece ; thefe chariots are to be plac’d in lanes •, 12 little brals guns marked with the figns in the zodiack ; 12 brafs guns called the apoftles: molt of thefe pieces may be turn’d about without moving their carriages: many double pieces; two great fcrews to remove towers; ban- deliers made of horn ; a tilting ring made by the earl of Turtefon when queen Chril Jlinaof Sweden was here on her birth-day y the pi&ure of Solyman balfa taken prifoner 1599, by a foldier of Strasburg. This bafta was kept here a good while, and then fent to Vienna , where he died eight years after he was a prifoner. The bafia’s fci- miter, fhield and armour, and the fol- dier’s fword, mufket, thefe are kept to¬ gether in one prefs. The emperor gave this foldier a fpread-eagle in his coat of arms. After his return hither he was made a burgomafter. The emperor’s ftandard hangs up, which he brought with him. It hath the letter R and a crown on one fide. On the out fide of one of the walls, is the pitfture of Antoine Franboine , a foldier of Antorf. He was eight foot and an half high. The great church is a curious ftone building. The entrance at the weft end is adorned with many figures. The body of the church is fair, having an ifle on each fide lower in the roof. In the fouth ifle is a well of water. The choir is final]. At the entrance of it are a great pair of brafs Valve. We faw here the famous clock de- l'cribed by Dom. Coryat. Towards the bottom is a great circle with the calendar (a figure pointing to the day of the month) and within that are 15 other circles, each being divided into 100 parts, the calendar lading from 1573. to 1672. the explanation of the 15 circles is thus : Annus 1663. Domini. Annus 5625. Mundi. Vern. 11. Die. |*| l ? I 10. Hor. Noe. 12. A. Scrup. Quin. 1. M. Quag. Refur. 19. A. Domini. Advent. 29. N Domini. A. Nativit. 9 - Hebdomad. Ad Quin. 3 - Dies. A. Nativit. 16. Hebdomad. Ad Pafch. 3 * Dies. A Pafch: 35 - Hebdomad. Ad Nat. 5 - Dies. Liter. D. Domini. Skippon, In the middle is a map of Germany , and on it is written, Conradus Dafypodius & David JVolkenflcin Uratifl. defignabant. Dhobi as Stunner fin- gebat A. D. mdlxxiii. The clock-work was made by one Ijaac Habrechtus of Strasburg. ) When the clock ftrikes, a little figure k^eps time at every ftrokewith a fcepter, and another figure turns an hour-glafs 5 and 12 (apoftlesj follr.w one another, and a cock crows. Many other things are very obfervable here. Near this clock lie two huge bell- clappers. After we had procured leave, and paid Steeple. fomewhat for a little brafs token, we went up the fteeple, which is very curioufly built. Towards the top it lefiens, where there is a curious arch of ftone like a cone. 1 went up as far as I could, and was under the place called the crown. The fteps I afcended were 640 ; but, to the very top, are 662. In this fteeple two men watch every day, and four every night. Here is a ciilern of water always ready to quench fire. July 31. we rode in a coach-waggon three German miles and an half to our lodging at a village call’d Ttvel/hetm , be¬ longing to the bifiiop of Strasburg. Auguft 1. We traveil’d three miles, and pafs’d thro’ Markle/heim , a fmall wall’d place under the bifhop of Strasburg, where our charioteer paid nine batz. Two miles further we rode in fight of Brifach , Brifach. on the left hand of the river Rhene , which is a ftrong place feated on a rock, and garrifon’d by the French , who have all Alfatia to the walls of Bafil. About two miles more we came to this night’s lodging 44-4 d Journey thro ’ Tart of the [Gem. Skippon. lodging at Lodejheitn , a village pleafantly v - / ^ vrv *' fituated in a large plain. Augufi 2. W r e rode thro’ woods; and a German mile and an half from Lodefheim , Bafil. we arr iv’d at the gates of Bafil, where we ftay’d till fermon was done ; then the gates were open’d, and the foldiers ex¬ amin’d us before we entred the walls. Govern - The government of this city is thus: ment. the citizens are divided into 15 tribes; each of which hath the privilege of elect¬ ing 12 men called fexers, becaufe fix only are regent every half year. The council or fenate of 60 is thus chofen. 7 he 180 fexers elect two out of a tribe, which are called tribunes, and are for life; and the whole council elects the otlier 30, viz. two alfo out of each tribe. Thefe are properly called fena- tors. Two confuls or burgomafters chofen by the 30 fenators. Two Fribuni plebis , or tfunt-meifters, chofen by the tribunes. One burgomafter, and one tfunt-mei- fter rule every year alternately. The burgomafter gathers the votes when a counfellor or fenator is to be elected. The fenators govern half one year, and half the next. The counfellors that were in authority the preceding year, debate firft, and agree upon what is to be propounded to thofe in power, who may confirm or reject the propofals. The 60, and the burgomafters and the tfunt-meifters judge criminal caufes. The fenate chule 20 to determine civil matters. In weighty affairs the 64 call together the great council, which confifts of IlX’viri , the tribunes, and fenators, and the 4 Capita ; in all 144. The rufticks in the jurifdiction of Bafil , are in great fubjection to the better fort; and if they fail to pay their rents or debts, the landlord or creditor hath power to apprehend them with a bailiff and two or three halberdeers, who take the fellow, and tying a rope about his middle, lead him to prifon. Ecclejiafti- The ecclefiaftical government is in a fe- ctti S o- nate, which confifts of the three profeffors ■emment. c f divinity, four fchoolmafters, and all the minifters; and when a benefice is va¬ cant, this fenate propounds three, and out of them the magiftrates chufe one. The civil magiftrate appoints three fe¬ nators (one of which is prefidentj two minifters, and four citizens to be judges of adultery and fornication. Here any, after impofition of hands, may at pleafure leave their miniftry. The paftors or minifters in the city, have certain ftipends, but thofe in the country are partly paid in tithes, and partly in ftipend. The minifters, after examination, are called candidates. We vifited the Collegium Bafilienfe , Univer-fij. where we faw the auditorium juridicum, medicum , philofopbicum, & theatrum ana - tomicum, the room where the fenate of the 17 profeffors meet. There are three pro- felfors of divinity, three of law, three of medicine, and eight of philofophy. They read every day of the week, except Sundays and Fhurfdays , and have fo fmall ftipends, that they will fcarce maintain them. Pope Pius II. founded this uni-‘ verfity. Befides the profeffors of divinity, there are few that take the degree of dodlor, except fome who are obliged by their places to be doctors. In law there are doctors and licentiates; in medicine only doftors. In philofophy. Studiofi, Baccalaurei , C? Magijtri. Erafmus founded a college here for 20 fcholars, who are maintain’d by it; 18 of them are ftudents in divinity, 10 of which are Bafilienfes , and the other eight Extranei. They may live there as long as they pleafe, .provided they follow that ftudy, and live unmarried, and the magi- ftrates command none of them to another manner of life. The other two maintained by this foun¬ dation, are the beadle and a fchoolmafter, the regent of the college, without whofe leave none can lodge one night out of it. About three years ago, on the 3d of April , was a jubilee obferved according to the oldconftitution once in 100 years; and all the profeffors carry’d the univer- fity ftatutes and privileges in pomp thro’ the ftreets. In the dog-days four or five of the ftu¬ dents read leeftures, and therefore are cal¬ led Profejfores Caniculares. The uni verfity library is well ftored Univerfay with choice manuferipts and all forts of library, books ; among which Is a Compendium &c ’ Grammatics in a large folio. Here, in 160 leaves folio, is the rationalis divinorum co¬ dex offeiorum, which, at firft fight, looks like a MS. but is printed per John Fuji Moguntinum & Petrum Demfclyxm Cleri- cum Diocef ejufdem Anno Domini 1459. 6. die OHobris. Over the library is a pleafant room that looks on the river Rbene : over the door of it is written, B&Cwvt'env Academicum. Do&ors are promoted here ; where, in a prefs. Germ?\ Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 445 a prefs, are kept the skeletons of a man, woman, child, and baboon, which are fix’d to an iron that may be turned round to fhew every part of them without re¬ moving them. Under the Auditorium philofophicum is a cellar where 18 countrymen were kept prifoners for a rebellion, that fix of them were hanged and one beheaded for: which rebellion was occafion’d by the bailiff’s hard ufage, whereby the poor people were much opprefs’d in little matters. Dr. Fabricius of Heidleberg , gave us let¬ ters to Wetftenius , a profeflor of divinity, who had formerly been in England , and was very civil to us. His father is a con- ful of this city, and was fent by the 13 cantons to the convention at Munfter 1648. being very much in efteem. Erafmus Every parifh hath a library; and at rr Amber- t ] ie g re;l t; church is the Bibliotheca Atnber- library ' ‘ bachiana ; which library Erafmus had fold before his death to a Polijh gentleman, who never paid the money, and fo it fell to Ambcrbachius , who was made Erafmus his heir by his Jaft will and tefhament, which we law written with his own hand in half a fheet of paper, dated 12 die Feb. 1536. Here we alfo faw thefe fol¬ lowing pidures drawn by Holbenius , who was born in this city ; Holbenius himfelf, his wife, and two children ; two pidures of Erafmus ; Ambrofius Amberbachius bro¬ ther to Ilolben ; the Cadaver of our Savi¬ our; the firfi: draughts, in paper, of the pidures painted on the ftadthoufe; the paflion of our Saviour in feveral pieces ; St. Martin ; Samuel meeting Saul coming from the battle of the Amalekites ; a pic¬ ture of Sir ’Thomas More (to whom Hol- benius was commended by Erafmus ) and his whole family, being about 10 perfons, among which is Henry Peterfon Tho. Mori Morio , Chor.ea Mortis , &c. We faw here feveral printed pidures of the virgin Mary ; our Saviour, &c. printed 1511. and made by Albert Durer Noricenfis ; a box full of Diplomata given to Erafmus by the pope, emperor, kings, &c. the ring Erafmus us’d to wear on his thumb, having his motto, Terminus , on it; the manuicript of the book Erafmus wrote at Cambridge , and dedicated to the bifiiop of Lincoln ; the title of it is, Quo paclo cficiat ut ex inimicis capiat utililatem Pint. Chcrfonejis. Among the medals that were fiiewn us, we obferv’d a fair one fent by the king of Poland to Erafmus ; on one fide whereof is the king’s pidure, and this infeription, Sigifnu ndus Rex Polo nice. Vol. VI. And on the reverfe is, D Erafno Roterodamo Severinus Boner M. Sjcippon. Two medals of Otho , one a medallion in brafs, thus infcrib’d, IMP. OTHO. CAES. AVG. P. M. COS. II. MATVRA CELERITAS. The other is in filver, with this in¬ fcrib’d, IMP. OTHO CAES. PONT. MAX. A medallion, whereon is written, Elene Leila Spartes Regina. Another thus infcrib’d, Deus Nabucadonafr. PM A medal with this, Confenfus Senat. & Eq. Ordin. P. £1 Divus Auguftus S C. PAVLVS LEPIDIVS CONCORD. P capile velato , in filver. L. Papins. Cor nut us. Dido Regina. Siclus Samaritanus. Nummus Salomonis , capite radiato. Nummi Attici. A medal of the 13 cantons, whereon, Si Deus pro nobis , quis contra nos ? A medal in filver of the univerfity of Altorff. Zuinglius & Oecolampadius in filver. John Hus ty’d to a Hake, where there is written, Condemnatur ; and round about, 100 revolulis annis Deo refpondebitis & nuhi. About his pidure, is. Credo unam effe Ecclefiam fan Bam catholicam. Nummus Thuring. (A Mifnicnfis ; a col- ledion of rappers. Three rappers turned into gold by Leo- nardus Tumi! ins of this place, who did alfo 5 X " turn 44<5 A Journey thro’ Tart of the [Germ. skifpon. turn half a nail into gold, which is kept at Florence. A medal of Francifcus I. Rex Gallic ; the fcale of Conftantinus M. medals of cardinals, bifhops, £s fc. among which Granvillanus , Tko. Aquinas , the 12 Ccefars-, many Entaglice found at Augujla Raura- corum j one a greenifh ftone with a talif- manical figure, viz. Leo between Cancer and Scorpio ; old idols, viz. Mercury Fe¬ rns Cinbtia, having a pearl hanging from her girdle before •, Jupiter \ Jupiter Ful- minans ; an Arufpex •, two (tones like two white loaves joyned together ; many of Aniberbachius’s papers, wherein the anti¬ quities of Augujla Raur. are defcribed. Theuniverfity intends to build a place for this library, and that under the BAt this we were defired to write our names, and give a golden du¬ cat, according to an odd covetous cu- Horn. We vifited Dr. Felix Platerus Archiater his collection of rarities; among which we faw many forts of minerals, (tones, dry’d fifties, (Ac. with their names writ¬ ten ; a lamp within a brafs globe, which, turned any way, would (till keep in its right pofture •, lachrymal urns •, painted books of quadrupeds, fifties, and fowls ; Indian habits on two (Tacues ; skele¬ tons ; the pidture of a giant’s skeleton. Thefe things were collected by Thomas Platerus P. and Felix the uncle, but are now fomewhat negleCted, tho’ kept in two rooms and good order. The doctor’s fon who (hewed ns them, brought us a book wherein we wrote our names, and then gave a golden ducat, it being co- vetoufly expected of us. The great church was built by Henry II. emperor, who married Cunigunda daugh¬ ter of an Englifh king, and St. Pantalus , an Englijhman , who was the firft bilhop of this place. It is built of (tone. Againft a pillar on the north fide of the commu¬ nion table (which is of fine marble) (hands the monument of Erafmus. In a Platerus his mute- urn of ra¬ rities* Great ehurch. fair carved feat the two regent V burgo- mafters, and the two old burgomafters have velvet cufhions •, the ftatt-feriver and the rott-feriver fit next; then the fubftitute and the under-fubftitute ; and next them the two fergeants or meffen- gers. Underneath fit their fervants, who are habited with black and white coats, and tall (heeple caps. Over againft thefe feats are three rows of feats, where the men fit when there is a funeral, the wo¬ men fitting near the pulpit. The pro- feflor’s feat is on the fereen which divides the choir from the body of the church : the church hath double illes. An organ here. The people make a great external (hew of devotion ; when they come in firft, they fay their private prayers. The fer- vice begins with the organ and Tinging of a pfalm ; then the minifter prays, and all the people (land up, bowing at the name of Jefus; and when the fermon begins, all fit down, and the men put on their hats; and that done, the minifter prays again, and the people (land up, and the organ concludes all. In this city are 11 or 12 churches where are fermons every day. The Italians and French have churches, but none are tole¬ rated befides the Calvinifls , all the inha¬ bitants being of that perfuafion. The chapter-houfe is now ufed as a large chamber for .... Near it is the Auditorium Theologicu?n y where are many inferiptions, which you may fee printed with all the epitaphs, (Ac. in Bafil. Two towers, on one of which we had a pleafant profpedt of the adjacent country, the fituation of the city, which lies on each fide of the Rhene , joyn’d by a bridge of 14 arches, half the fides or pillars whereof are wood, and the other half ftone : that part on Ger¬ many fide is the lefs, and is called little Bafil. This city is indifferently large, and well built of ftone ; the houfes fair and high, and many of them painted on the out-fide. One tradefman’s houfe is curi- oufly painted by Holbenius , but the pic¬ ture begins to decay by reafon of the wall, which fuffers more by the weather, than the paint does. The city is feated on hills, fo that there is fcarce one ftreet on a level. Here are counted about 300 fountains, every ftreet having one, and almoft every houfe of note is furnifh’d with a fountain. The Armamentarium is well provided with all forts of arms. On a wall belonging formerly to the Dominicans convent, is painted Chorcea Chorxa mortis ; where is defcribed Calvin preach- mortIS * ing to the pope, emperor, a king, cardi¬ nal, bilhop, nobleman, lady, ulurer, foldier, beggar, (Ac. who are all dan¬ cing with a figure of death. The ftadthoufe isahandfome building, Stadthoufk having the walls well painted on the out- fide. In the court where the magiftrates fit, is a rare picture of the pafiion of our Saviour, deferibing his being at mount Olivet , his burial, and a foldier, moft live¬ ly reprefen ted, throwing dice for the coat. Holbenius was the painter. In this court, the benches where the new fenate fits, are before that of the old fenate. On the wall is written, Deo dedicata (A Virtuli. Anno mdcijx. The Germ.'} Low-Countries, Germany, ItaXy^and France. 447 The graver fort of citizens and ma¬ gistrates wear ruffs and fteeple caps ; the profeffors and minifters wear the fame, with gowns which reach no further than their knees. At a burial we obferved the men went firft two and two together, then the wo¬ men two and two, who had a white drefs about their heads, and a long piece of white linen which hung down their backs. At the entrance upon the bridge is a gate and clock, which hath the figure of a man’s head, that puts out its tongue every minute ; we were told it is in me¬ mory of a fellow who Should have be¬ trayed the town a good while fince. The tradefmen of Bafil we obferved exabted much for their wares, but in our inn we had plentiful of provifion very cheap. The countrymen hereabouts wear draw hats, and the women have very fhort coats, a little below their knees ; about their wafles they have a tin girdle, and on their heads flick little caps. There is a bifhop who has the title of this city, but he is not buffered to lodge in it one night : He coins money, which is not current at Bafil: He lives at Bron- dint , and is chofen by the canons. We were civilly entertained by Ulrich Hugo our merchant, to whom we were recommended by Mr. Balde of Frankfurt. We had fome difcourfe with Hieron. Bauhinus , (fccond fon o {Job. C. Bauh. the elder brother is a Benedictine monk at Paris,and the fourth brother lately chang’d his religion) botannick profeffor, with whom we walked about an hour’s diflance from the city, but found no remarkable plants, by reafon of the Rbene’s over¬ sowing its banks. An Englifo gentlewoman, related to the Afions in the weft of England , and to the Cartwrights , is married here to one Meyer , a citizen of this place. Daniel George , who fled hither out of Holland , died in Bafil , and immediately after his death there was a ftorm of thunder and lightning, and a thunder-bolt broke into the houfe where his body was. Within half an hour of Bafil is Alfalia , belonging to the French king ; and within a German mile on the other fide of the river is the margrave of Tourlack’s jurif- diftion. The jurifdicftion of Bafil extends into Switzerland half a day’s journey * about 100 villages in it. The miles in Switzerland are longer than thofe in Germany. Aug. 10. We went by horfe with the meffenger, and about a German mile from / ugufta Bafil came to Aug ft, or Augujla Rauraco- Rauraco- ru?n» a fmall village, which had formerly ium. been a Roman city : We faw here the Skippon. ruins of a building gueffed by Amberhachius to have been an amphitheatre : Many coins are found here. We then pa fled clofe by a walled town near the Rhene , which belongs to the archduke of Infyruck , and as we travelled this day wild fir trees were obferved, the firft time we faw them. The country hereabouts is called FreetalL and is under the archduke afore-mention’d. In the afternoon we were flopped about two hours in a little village by a torrent of water that came down the road with a flrong and deep ftream, occaflon’d by a fudden rain, which prefently abating, the ways were foon paflable •, then we paflfed over a bridge at the river ——where there was but one (a very large) arch, and came thro* Bruck , a pretty little walled place, having one handfome ftreet, built with high and fair flone buildings, and foun¬ tains in the ftreets. Note , In Switzerland we obferved every town and village to have fountains. Some diflance from Bruck we ferried over another river, called --, being a great and flrong ftream ; our boat went crofs by the help of a rope which went over the river. Late at night we arri¬ ved fix miles from Bafil at Baden , where Baden, in our inn we refrefhed ourfelves in one of Baths* the baths, which are reckoned to be about fixty in number : They are fmall, and that I was in was within the houfe : The water was hot, but by opening a pipe of cold water you may temper it as you pleafe. We bought here dice petrified, which are often found in the ground hereabouts. The Venetian refident was in the fame houfe we lodged in : He was lately in England , but now his ordinary refidence is at Zurich. Baden is a little diflance from the baths: It is a walled town, feated on the fide of a hill, near the river Limagis. At this town the delegates of all the cantons meet, &c. Aug. 11. We pafied at Baden over a bridge which is covered like that at Hei- dleberg , and afterwards went along by the river Limagis , and by fair vineyards, where we obferved the vines faftened to Juga , and not poled as in molt places nigh the Rhene , and as afterwards we faw in Italy and France. Two German miles from Baden brought us to Zurich •, which city is pleafantly ZURICH fituated nigh a great lake that runs into the river Limagis below the town. This lake hath part of the city on each fide of it, and hath over it three bridges, the broadeft of which is an herb or fruit mar¬ ket i at another bridge (of wood ) is a water wheel, which, by a chain of little buckets^ 44 8 A Journey thro 5 Part of the [Germ « Skippon. buckets, conveys water into a ciftern. Juft where the lake begins to narrow above the town, are two rows of ftrongftakes, that go crofs from one fide to the other, to keep from a furprizal by boats •, and within them, in the middle of the water, is an earth work for cannon, &V. The lake is of a greenifh colour; but feveral brooks, and a little river called the Sele (that runs by the walls, and is conveyed over one arm of the lake in an artificial channel ) change it into a whitifh colour. This city hath the lake on one fide ; on another a pleafant level ; and, on the third fide, a hilly country, which is well ftored with wood. Nigh the fruit market is a kind of an ex¬ change, where are many fhops for fmall wares, viz. ribbands, gloves, &c. Two large jepta or places in the water, where fifh are preferved : and not far from the earth work, is a tower prifon in the water, where malefactors are kept. Nigh the water-fide are forne houfes with fair por- tici of ftone. This city is about the bignefs of Bafil , having handfome ftone houfes, and fome very (lately. Many fountains in the ftreets. The fortifications are very good without upon the hills, &c. a line, a trench, an inward wall, and another trench. Cuftbms. No guards nor centinels at the gates; but mod of the inhabitants wear their fwords when they walk up and down. The citi¬ zens wear black cloaks and round black caps (with hat-bands) like the fophifters in Cambridge, and fome of their caps are clofe to their heads, with a little place to put their fingers in and pull them off by. Thefe are worn by mourners, and are like the caps the common Italians wear. This city is full of inhabitants, who are confi¬ dent, and have a good efteem of them- felves. Weobferv’d, the fhuts and windows of (hops to here be kept open by great ftone weights as at Bafil, and on the outfide of the houfes little bells, fome for the door, others for the fecond and third (lories, &Y. feveral families living one over another in the fame houfe. In the fifh market are pic¬ tur’d the fifties taken in the lake, the months when they are in feafon, and the prices they are to be fold at, according to feveral lengths and weights. There is much paper made here, which isfentinto the low countries. The gold- fmiths is the chief trade of Zurich. Neat baflcets made hereabouts. No wine per¬ mitted to be drunk but that made in this country. The granary is a fair building ; over one of the doors is this infcription, ^FF^S Iflhanc molem in Limagi ripa auam vides AJfervands dividends p, frumentaris Annoncs dejhnata?n Co/. Leonardo Holzhalbio glor. mem : A fundamentis inchoatam Cof. Jo. Rod. Ronio , Of Jo. Henr. Holzhalbio Patrice Patrib. Perftciendam curavit S P QT. The hofpital is newly built, having a cloifter within, where are maintained poor men and women, boys and girls, who are all kept to work in their feveral work¬ rooms. The boys and girls have fchools befides. If they refufe to work, they are lock’d up in rooms or prifons, and chains put about their legs. They behead malefactors as they (land, the executioner prefently doing his work with a (word at one blow : fome as they go to the execution repeat the lord’s prayer continually. We went to vifit Dr. Switzius a profeffor of divinity, who was abfent from home, having letters of recommendation from Dr. Wetflenius of Bafil. St Felix church is a little place for the chiefeft; we faw no monuments here, it being not the cuftom of this city to eredt any. The Auditorium is a fair room, where deputations in divinity are held, and lec¬ tures read by profeffors who do pro¬ mote here in divinity. The profeffors of theology are two, and as many- of phi- lofophy ; but there are none of law and medicine. Two Gymnafia in this city. The learn’d men are Job. Henricus Hot tinker. Learned hwitzius, Ulrick. Over the Auditorium is the city library. Fhe civ, which is a very pleafant arch’d room, well l,irar y built over part of the lake. Here are not many books, but thole that are, are dif- pos’d in very good order, the claffes be¬ ing according to the faculties. At the up¬ per end is one claffis for all forts ofbibles and concordances,^. Among the bibles we took notice of one in 4 to Englifh , printed at Zurich by Chrijlopher Frofchower 16th Augufi , 1550. All the books are lock’d in within iron bars. We faw alfo here a letter written in Latin by the lady Jane Grey's own hand 1551, to Bullingerus , and another to him from Johannes ab Ulmis , dated at Broadgate 4 Kal, Junii 1551 ; alfo three letters patents of Edward VI. to Bullinger , in one of which he bellows on him a canon’s place in Chrijl-Church, Ox¬ ford. A Hebrew MS. in 16 0 was (hewn us, which is very curious, given by the duke of Rohan. In this library is a clock invented Germ .] Low-Countries, Germany, Icaly, and France. invented by one Zinggius a minifter, who contrived it according to Copernicus'% hy- pothefis, having many motions in it, which are related in a printed paper. Any ci¬ tizen that defires the freedom of this li¬ brary gives 10 florins in money, or in fomething equivalent ; a ftranger gives but five florins. Every one that is pro¬ moted to any honour gives alfo a prefent to the library : Thefe citizens may take books home with them if they will : The ftudents of the Gymnafia may ftudy here : The library is opened on fburfdays and Sundays after fermon. Every day of the week there are fermons in four churches. Cufloms. In our return out of Italy in April 1665. we obferved many other particulars in this city, viz. being at the great church on a Lord’s day, we faw the manner of their fervice : The women have their feats in the body of the church, fitting all with their faces towards the pulpit, which is at the parting of the choir from the nave i when they come firft into their feats they take by the hand thofe that are next to them, and after that ftand a good while faying their private devotions: The men do the like : The pfalm to be fung is written at the church doors, and when they begin to fing the clerk fleps from his feat and Hands by the fchool-boys, who fit under the pulpit, who fets the tune, and then all the congregation prefently joins with him, never reading the verfe firft: They have no organs in their churches here : After the pfalm is fung the minifter prays a little while, and fays the Lord’s prayer to himfelf upon his knees, as the Lutherans do : The men ftay till the text is read before they put on their hats: The fermon is ufually about an hour long : They bow’d at the name of Jefus, as the Grifons do : When the minifter has made his laft prayer, another pfalm is fung •, and after all is done, many ftay a while, and ftand faying fome private prayers. None but married women have black gowns without arm fleeves, plaited be¬ hind with long hanging fleeves, in one of which they hold their hands, as in a muff: They wear a great deal of white linen about their heads, as we obferved at Underwalden , &c. covering all the fore¬ head and eye-lids, and all the chin to the under-lip. The widows have the fame habit with the married women, only upon the crown of their heads they wear a round piece of black, as at Uri, &c. Little girls and unmarried women wear furr caps, and fome of them have their hair hanging down behind in two braids : Moft of the unmarried women and fome of the men wear ruffs and long brufliy beards. Vol. VI. The minifters wear fhort gowns, like the profeflbrs at Baftl , and round caps. The government is thus ; the inhabi¬ tants are divided into 12 tribes, or com¬ panies, viz. 1. Saffran, i. e. merchants and apothecaries. 2. Meifen, wherein are included vintners, innkeepers and painters. 3. Schmid, &c. i. e. fmiths, pewterers, brafiers and chirurgeons. 4. Pfifter, &c. i. e. bakers and millers. 5. Mezker, L e. butchers. 6. Kerver, i. e. tanners, j. Schumaker, i. e. fhoemakcr. 8. Zimber- liits, i. e. carpenters, turners, joiners and bricklayers. 9. Schnyders, i. e. taylors, wooll-dreflers and fkinners. 10. Schiffluts, i. e. watermen, fifliermen and repemakers. 11. Kembel, five Camelus, fo called from the pidture of that animal on the hall be¬ longing to fuch as fell butter and cheefe, cheefemongers, makers of nut oil and oat¬ meal. 12. Waag, five Libra, which is painted on the weavers-hall. Every one of thefe tribes chufes two fwelvers, or I’rib uni Plebis , which are in all 24, who with 12 Senators chofen out of the tribes by the council of 200, 6 That are eledted by the fame 200 where they pleafe, 4 Pribuni Nobilium , chofen by the gentry, 2 Senators elected alfo by the gentry, 2 Cojf or burgo-mafters, chofen by the 200 out of the 12 tribes. Thefe 50 are called the lefier council, half of which, viz. 12 fwelvers, 6 fena- tors, 2 Trib. Nob. 1 fenator Nob. 3 of the free election, and 1 Cojf. (in all 25) rule by turns every half year, and are called Concilium Novum , the other half being called the Concilium Vctus. The Cone. Novum judges in criminals, and all the 50 in civils. The 50 meet every week, and if any decree, &c. be paffed, it is dated in the prefence of the Concilium Novum & Vetus. The great council of 200 confifts of 144 (12 out of a tribe) 18 Elected by the noblemen, 24 Swelvers, 6 Of the free election, 4 Trib. Nobilium , 2 Sen a l ores Nob. 2 Cojf. The four ftadtholders or Procojf. are chofen by the 200 out of the 24 Trib. Plebis. Two fecklemafters or treafurers areele- dted by the 200, either out of the 12 fena- tors, or the 12 fwelvers in the Concilium novum. The fore-mentioned officers are confirmed, or new ones eledted every half year, viz. at Cbrijlmas , &c. 5 Y The 45 ° A Journey thro' Part of the [Germ. Skippon. The landtvogts are chofen by this great council, which affembles on important occafions. The beadles or under-officers wear white and blue coats, which are the co¬ lours in the arms of this city. Thefe men are fent by the magiftrates with wine to welcome Grangers of quality. Auguft 12. We rode with the meffen- ger, and pafs’d thro’ Bulle , a mile and an half from Zurich ; then went one mile further thro’ Eglifaw (in the jurifdicffion of Zurich ) fituated by the Rhene , which is here but narrow, having a bridge over it, which is cover’d like that at Heidleberg : hence we travell’d to JVaf- Waflerfall. ferfall , which is a rnoft remarkable village, fo call’d from the great fall of water or cataradt of the whole river Rhene. It falls a confiderable heighth off a rock ; and the water breaking and dafhing into pieces, maks a noife that is heard a good way } and when the fun ffiined upon the cloud or miff raifed by the waters fall, we obferved a pcrfedt rainbow. On the ffiore here are a kind of pumex- ftone ; and many good plants grow here¬ abouts. Half an hour from this place we ar¬ rived (four German miles from Zurich) at Schaffhau- Schaffhaufen , a city feated by the Rhene , len ‘ where there is a bridge, part of fix ftone arches, and part of wood, which leads over to a little place called Vuertalen , under the republick of Zurich. From this bridge to the water-fall it is unfafe for boats to pafs, by reafon of great Hones, iAc. in the river, and therefore commodities are landed at Schaffhaufen , and carted to a place below the cataratff, where they are put into other boats that go down the ftream. Schaffhaufen is well built of Hone, have- ing two fairftreets in it, well paved ; fe- veral fountains up and down the city. Arfeml. Thearfenaiis a pretty building, where is infcribed over the door, above the imperial arms. Dens fpes noftra eft. And underneath, Juftinianus Imp. Rempublicam non folam ar- mis decor at am, fed & legibus oportet effe armatam ut utrumque tempus & bellorum & pads rede gubernari poftit. Under that is written, Quod Felix Fauftuma-, fit Matthia Rom. Imp. Aug. in Germ. Ludovico XIII Henrici M. F. in Gall. Regnantib. Ant. Helvet. gentis hujus chit, liber- tate in celeb, ftatu & flore II. Schwartio D. et R. Gofzvilero Coff Fum Exiftentib. Armamentarium hoc in quo arma Reipub. ad legit, defenfionem Pro falute patriae affervantur Coel. numine operis prcgreffum felici. Succcff. B. Fortunante. Ex SC. pub. fumptib. denovo Ex- trudum & ad met am mature Perdu Hum eft. C a nato Fil. Dei mdcxvii. Anno hence we travell’d by and a lake called Under- over a high hill flored When we came to the four German miles from Con/hntz; were examined by fob diers; and after we came to our inn, we fent our names to the governor. This is an imperial city, and is feated very plea- fantly in a level ground by the Rhene-fide, and at the end of the Bodenza , which lake the Rhene runs thro’. This river, up¬ wards from Scaffhaufen , we obferved to be of a greenifh colour. About 100 foldiers are in garifon here. That fide towards the land is fortify’d with a line and ditch, a good diftance from the wall; but that towards the wa¬ ter, only with a wall. A great part of the wall hath water within and without. In a little ifiand without the wall, is a Dominican’s cloifter, and a little bulwark ; a long bridge, partly of wood and partly of flone, which leads over to a little part of the city, well fortify’d with an earth¬ work and deep trench. Here is a Bene¬ dictine’s abbey. The ftreets are fair, and well built with flone houfes. Over the door of the cuftom-houfe, where the council of Confiantz fate, is written, Gaude clara dotnus pacem populo generajli Cbrijticolae , dum Pontijices tres fchifmate vexar.t Tunc omnes abigit ft nodus, quam iu tenuijli Ipfe fedem fcandit Martinus noniine Quintus Dum quadringentos numerant poft mille falutis Fejlo Martini decern & feptem fimul annos. Anno Domini mccclxxxviii. is a date written juft by. The arfenal hath figures of men, &c . Arfenal. painted on it, and this infcrib’d, Prudentia & vigilantia. Anna jujla id leges in rep. favorem Dei obtinet nec homi- num numerofa multitudine, fed Virtutibus rem bellicam metiri fas eft. Marte id Arte. Florente ftatu id pace non tnoven- dum helium, fin vero neceffe adire pcricula plus reprehendendus qui fugit quam qui fn~ ftinet periculum. For tit udine id difciplina. We faw the Benedictines and the Do¬ minicans church, a pretty place. The domo is not large, but a very Dome. neat church: the high altar is rich. Here is a monument of Johannes Eps. Conftan- tienfis ex illuftriff. S. R. I. Dapifer. Comit. Wolf egg fan, obiit 1 5 Decembris 1644 cetat. 46. Epifcopatus 17. In 45 * Skit pon. Bogar¬ de ew. A Legend. John Hus his prifon. Govern¬ ment. Lind aw. A Journey thro 5 Part of the [Germ. In this church hang up two cannon bul¬ lets fhot into the town when the Swedes befieged it, being kept as a memorial of that fiege. The Bogardeens (the third order of St. Francis) cloifter is inhabited by twenty monks, who civilly fhew’d us their fmall library, and a little chapel called Capella B. Maria fub Tilia, having this ftory painted on the wall, That Conflans the emperor palling over this very place, his horfe dipt into the boggy ground, but at the fame time the V. Mary appeared under a lime-tree, and freed him from that danger and a terrible dragon that watch’d for him •, whereupon Conflans made a vow, and built this chapel, and gave the firft beginning of this city, which is called by his name. In this convent we faw the prifon where John Hus was kept, and the monks fhew’d us a great hole in the wall, which he had made with his nails •, and a large room, where, they faid, the councel fat that condemn’d him. The government of Conftantz is by two confuls and twenty-four fenators. Auguft 15th, we hired a boat, which rowed us in the Boden-zee , obferving, on the left hand of us, the lake to extend a great way, where we had a profpeft of Oberlin, a free city ; and, on the fame hand, faw Langeerden , a little village, with a fort in the water, which belongs to the earl of Montfort. Afterwards turning at a point of land, we faw high mountains, and Lindaw , which city we arriv’d at four German miles from Conftantz. AfToon as we landed at one of the ports, we were ex¬ amined by foldiers, who took our names. This city is imperial, paying no tribute, but gives fomewhat towards the war with the ‘Turks. The jurifdidlion of this place reaches three hours diflance round about, having eight villages under it. The fortifications are, a ftrong wall round, and many good bulwarks in the water ("the city being encompafs’d with the water of the lake.) That fide which is neareft the land, is the ftrongeft forti¬ fied, and hath a bridge 200 paces long, half of which is ftone, and that half next the town, is of wood. The Swedes army lay before it, but could effect nothing. Towards the lake is a double wall, be¬ tween which are vineyards, that afford 100 fuders of wine every year. The flreetsand houfesare not fo fair as thofe at Conftantz. The market-place is fmall, having a handfome fountain in it; and in the ftreets are other fountains. Some of the houfes have rows or portici before their fhops, and are til’d with gutter tiles. , The government is as follows, there are Cozem- 3 Burgomafters, who rule by mtnu turns every four months. 15 Ratfheeren. 2 Geheymen Ratfheeren. 19 that judge in civil caules, as debts, &c. 1 Called an Amman. Thefe 40 are all for life, and out of themfelves choofe the burgomallers. If any of the 15 dies, the reft of the 15 eledt one out of the 19 •, and, if any of the 19 dies, the reft of the 19 choofe a citizen into his place. On great occafions 20 of the ableft ci¬ tizens are added to the 40. In the market-place ftands a great lime- tree, which is much obferv’d, and is ftamp’d on very little pieces of brafs money. It grows between the Lutherans great church and the Roman catholics, who have only this here. On Sunday Auguft 16th we went to the The great great church, an indifferent building, and church. oblerv’d the Lutherans, when they firft came in, ftand looking towards the eaft, and faying their private devotions. The women fit in the middle of the church, and the men round about, and in galle¬ ries. The publick fervice begins with the organ playing, and then all the congrega¬ tion ftands up, and look towards the eaft, and fing ; and, at the fame time, a fing- ing-mafter and boys fing in parts; but no pfalm, Lft. is named publickly. After this the minifter, in his gown, comes up into the pulpit and prays, the people ftanding up, looking towards the eaft, and fometimes bowing of their bodies. The minifter, at the conclufion of this firft prayer, fell down upon his knees, and was filent a good while, and then rofe up, and immediately the people turned their faces towards the minifter, who read the gofpel, and made his fermon on part of it. After fermon the minifter faid a fhort prayer, the people turning to the eaft, and then the organ play’d, and all fung before the minifter gave his bleffing, after which the organ play’d again, and there was a mufical concert of men, boys, When all was done, we took notice of fome women, who, with their books in their hands, faid fomewhat to themfelves. We faw here a chriftening •, the minifter took the child from the godfather, and baptiz’d it, the father ftanding fome di- ftance off. They have but one godfather and one godmother at a time. Every morning and evening there are publick prayers i and every Friday the Lu¬ therans have a fhort faff, and the city gates are fhut till eight in the morning. The I Germ.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 453 The women here wear (home of them ) great white drefies of linen about their heads, like the Jews at Frankfurt , and fome are drefs’d in their hair; but they all wear ruffs. Wind-guns are made in this place. The earl of Montfort lives about three hours from Lindaw. Auguft 17, we took poft horfes, and Wangen. rode two German miles to Wangen , a little walled free city, and took frefh horfes here, then ported it two hours farther to Laykirke. Laykirke , another walled imperial city, where we had new horfes, and rode by great pools, and through many fir woods, and pafs’d in fight of the earl of Tide's pa¬ lace, fituated on the hills on the left hand. Some diftance from Laykirke we ferried over the Elle t where they were building a wooden bridge. Towards the evening we Mennin- came to Mcnningcn , a rtrong imperial city, gen. which we entred after the guards examin’d us. The town is large, and the ftreets broad, with water running through them •, the houfes arc low and indifferent. All thefe port towns are roman catholick. Here we changed our horfes, and travelled two German miles, and, about midnight, Mundel- reach’d Mundelhaim , a walled place, un- hum. der the duke of Bavaria, where we lodged. After fome difeourfewith a watchman, who was in a room over the gate, he firft let 11s come through an outward gate, and then fhut it, keeping us on horfeback between two rtrong gates, in a clofe place, while he examined us *, then he opened the in¬ ward gate, and difmifs’d us. Thefe gates were large and rtrong, yet he opened and fhut them without coming out of his room. Above eight German miles from Lindaw to Mundelhaim. Auguft 18, we hired poft horfes for a double ftage, and rode over moors, and through fir woods, and, at four miles Landsbcrg end, came to Landsherg , a walled town be¬ longing to the duke of Bavaria , feated on the afeent of a hill by the river Lech. The houfes here are well built, and in the mar¬ ket-place is a fountain, eredled 1663, ha¬ ving ftatues upon it, and carting up a pleafant ftream of water at leaft fix yards high very plentifully. Here we took frefh horfes for Municben •, but, before night, one of them jaded, which forced us to take up three German miles fhort, at Stegcn, a village on the Ammer-zee , which is a lake three miles long. Here we had the Alps in profpeft, covered with fnow. The little boats ufed in this lake are made of one piece of timber. Stegen feven miles from Mundelhaim. Auguft 19, we performed the reft of our ftage, travelling through pine woods, and over a plain, whence we defeended into Vol. VI. another level, where is fituated the city SKIProN - of Municben. When we came to the gates of this place, we were ftrictl'y examined by loldiers, who took our names, and car¬ ried them to the governor, flaying above half an hour before we were permitted to enter into the city, which is well fortified with a line of a great heighth, a deep trench, an inward wall and another trench. The ftreets are very fair, being broad, ftreight, and well built with great houfes, many of which are painted well on the out- fide, and inferiptions on them. The river Ifar runs by the walls of this city. The market-place is large, and the fhops here have hand fome. rows or portici. In fome places they are double. In the middle of this piazza is a /lately high pillar of marble, with the gilded brals ftatue of the V. Mary on the top. On'the cor¬ ners of the pedertal are four brafs figures of angels treading upon thefe four animals, whofe names are written upon fhields, viz. 1. Super Afpidem. 2. Et Bafdicam. 3. El Lconem. 4. Et Draconem. On one fide of the pedertal is inferib’d, Deo opt. max. Virgini Deiparce BoTD Dues, benignijf. petentijf. Protedrici ob patri- (im , urbes , exercitus , feipfum , Dotn. & fpes fuas fervata. On the other fide, Hoc perenne ad pofteros monumentum Ma- ximilianus Co. Palat. Rhe. Utr. Bavar. Dux , S R I Archidapif. et Elector Cli- entum infimus grains fupplexque poft mdcxxxi IX. Round about are ftonc rails, having at each corner a lantern of glafs. The arms of the town is, a monk hold¬ ing up one finger. Formerly he held up two ; but the inhabitants rebelling, the prince bended one of the fingers. Several gates, with towers, are pafla- ges into the inner part of the city. On one, over a painting, is written, Jeftaus ftacit. Ecce modus. Cith cere din et infans turba falit , mu/us vix iacet ipfe flex. On the ftaddioufe are many figures of emperors, &c. painted, and fentences writ¬ ten, viz. Ludovicus Imper. Tu ne cede malis fed contra audentior do. S. Ilenricus Imper. § Z In 454 Skippon. In fummo imperio fumma virtus. Fama femper longius. Recepi tenui femperque tenebo. Under Car. M. Imperium condidi , conditum fervate. Under Ludov. plus Car. M. F. Dummodo pius feu felix feu infelix. The women here wear fhort black cloaks, and broad brim’d hats. Some wear falling bands, and fome fur caps and ruffs. Some of the country women here¬ abouts very broad brim’d hats with very little crowns. 5^. PeterSt. Peter's church is a fair building. church The ;p ranc if cans church is handfome, cans where they fhew’d us a crucifix over an church. altar, which, they faid, a fellow fpewed A legend, upon, and immediately the devil carried him away through the fouth wall, a round window being made where the hole was. Fair brafs altar-pieces here. In the church-yard is a monument on the wall, thus inferib’d, 5 Thames Pilz Oxonienfi No- . bill Anglo pro fide Catkolica exuli, fereniffima Elizabeth£ Bavaria Ducijfa a cubiculis mceftififimi Fratres (A for ores pofuerunt.Vixit an. lxiiii. Obiit xvii Julii, mdcxv. st N i cIl0 St. Nicholas church is not big, but hath hs, a front like the Jefuits. It was built by the car- this prince’s father. Over the entrances are mchtes. thefe two inferiptions, Gulielmus V. Com. Pal. Rheni, Utri. Bavar. Dux Fundator ob an. Ab incar. verbi mdcxxvi. men. Feb. Die vii. Maxbniliani Fundatoris Pio voto & ajfeftu, Et Ferdinandi filii Pio corde Et effectu Serenijf Principum Utriufque Bavaria • Ducum Sacri Rom. imperii Elefforum, [Germ. In a corner room of this cloifter, to¬ wards the Jefuits college, Maximilian died. Between the Jefuits and this convent is the old palace, call’d by Zeilerus , Munimentum vetus. Notre Dame church is the cathedral, N.Dame built of brick. The body and the ifles of church. it are of equal heighth. It is {lately within, and hath two high Cupola or round fteeples, and 38 altars. On a monument here is inferib’d. Henricus Anfieius domo Anglv.sffiacobo Anfieio de Evenjheim , & Jana Lovelacei de Henle , Oxonienfis provincial piis parentibus {qui ob religionem catholicam regnante Elizabe- tha diuturno carcere adfiifti prhno demum 'Jacobi regis anno , pie catholiceque morte funtti funt) natus heic ad D. virginis ca- nonicus & ficholajlicus , Habacenfifque adis prapofitus , fereniff. Boiaria principibus Gulielmo & Maxirniliano ab facris tF con- filiis , mortis ( ut pareft ) memor vivus , morituro hoc A'ltare & Mon. fibi F. C. die viator , bene vivo , bene mortuo. Obiit xv Aprils , anno mdcxxxiii. He eredted an altar clofe by this monu¬ ment. ISlear this is a monument, with a bifhop’s effigies on it, and this written about it. A. D. 1473. 20 Maii, obiit reverendus in Chrifto pater & Dorn. Dorn. Johannes Culbelt , quondam Fryfingenfis epifeepus hie fepultus , cujus anirna requiefcat in pace. At St. Baino' s altar, near the choir where this duke and his brother were offered, is written, Ferdinandus Maria Francifcus Ignatius Wol- fangus Bavaria dux. An. Sal. 1640. JEtat.fua 4. t Maximilianus Philippus Hieronymus Bav. D. atat. 5. menf. 9. An. C. 1644. Alfo this is inferib’d here. Habitus epifcopalis S. Bennonis , una cum rni- tra & bacido pafiorali pofl cc an nos ex ejus fepulchro effojfus , hie cernitur. At St. George's altar are three flatues of duke William , viz. in his youth (landing on a dragon, in his middle age only his .j* ftatue, and, in his old age, holding a rotten tree. In the north ifle of the choir is a monu¬ ment with a fkeleton, hgnifying the ffory of one, whofe picture being defired when he was alive, he promifed they fhould not have it till fome days after his death and burial, A Journey thro’ Part oj the Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. burial, when he Was taken up, and then found in that pofture defcribed on the monument, which hath this writing by it. Manor abile ac luculentum [antire antiquitatis ac hutnililatis teftimonium ad hujus faxipe- dem Cadaver fcito claufum Johannis Newn- hawfer Canonum quondam Do tit oris mini¬ mi majoris, indigni Ratispone Decani et hujus primi Ecclefi. prcepojiti menfis Ja- nuarii die rota anno fupra mille qu'mgen- tos decimo [exto, vita fundii fua, cujus ani- me 0 Jefu Virginis tue Matris Oratu Sa- luti a deft o Velim. On a book opened is written, Meminiffe velis , 0 homo , ex turpi hac efftgte mortui. In the middle of the choir is a moil; {lately marble monument with brafs figures, &l. Within an arch lie three figures ; a man and a woman lie at the emperor’s feet, and a lion lies between them. On the top is the imperial crown on a cufhion, and two brafs angels are at each corner. Brafs rails are round about, and this written, Ludovico quarto bnperaiori Augufto Maxi- milianus Bav. Dux Sac. Rom. Imp. Ele¬ ctor jubentib. Alberto quinto Avo, Gulielmo quinto parenti pofuit. Anno mdcxxii. He died 1347. At each corner is a great brafs figure kneeling on the ground, holding each of them a banner, wherein are thefe names, 1. Carolus Crajf. Imp. Lud. Boia. regis films. Richardis Augujla Car. Crajf. conjunx. 2. Ludovicus pins Imp. Aug. Car. M. Filius Irningardis Augufta Lud. pii Conjunx. 3. Ludovicus IV. hnperator Augujlus Margareta Han. Hoi. Zel. & Frif. Com . 4. Carolus Magnus Imperat. Augujlus Hildcgardis Aug. Car. Mag. Conjunx. On each fide of the monument is a brafs ftatue, viz. of Albert V. and Wil¬ liam V. Behind the high altar, which is high and rich, is this infcription, D. 0 . M. Magna Dei Matri Augujlce ce tern usque Virg. Opt. Max. Boiarice Patrona, fingulari Principum tutelar, auxiliatrici, viftrici, Maximilianus Boiortun Dux e viola Bo¬ hemia redux memor gratufque pofuit Anno pojt C. N. cioiacxx. Before the high altar is a flone in the pavement, thus infcrib’d, Heic jacent ex profapia antiqua incluta Boio- rum Augufti Reges Principes Chrijiianifftmi bono Reipub. nati , Harefum Domitores, religionis avitce fyncerce propagatores, quo¬ rum gloria ne cum ciners interirct quod vides oeiernum pofteris monumev.tum magno cere eft extructum. Between the choir and the body of the church, isallately (lone arch erected by Maximilian duke of Bavaria. Behind and over the feats of the choir, are apoftles, faints, and fathers carved in the wood. T he Prcepofitus of this church is ftiled Prcepof. Dei gratia. In this church hangs up a ftandard taken from die king of Bohemia (the prince Palatine) at the battle of Prague. On the fouth fide is a Dutch infcription, a monument which fignifies, “ 1^92. “ 2 Nov. died a gentleman called Carl “ Rbeckh , counfellor and chamberlain, “ &c. who had by his wife Katherine “ (her name before was Effwinnen) that “ 1595. 21 Decemb. 10 fons and 10 ** daughters, whofe figures are all in “ marble.” A clock here which fhews the motions of the planets, and hath the blafphemous figure of God Almighty drawing and Jhcathing a fword, the virgin Mary and our Saviour moving their hands when it ftrikes the hour. A bird firft moves on the top, and makes a noiie ; the virgin Mary moves her right hand, then her left, and at Iaft both together. Every Monday the duke comes hither to the procefiion againll the Lurks, this being the feventh week fince he firfi be¬ gan. In this church are many curious altar- pieces ; amongft the reft is the picture of St. Bartholomew, much efteem’d. The bones of St Apollonius and St. Alfatius are kept in two altars. Englifto nuns of the Benedidline order live in this city, who difeourfed more free¬ ly than thofe at Ghent, (Ac. thefe coming into a little parlour without any grate between them and fome of our company . Madam Bedingfield of Norfolk is the go- vernefs of about 12 others, among which Sir James Hamilton's daughter. On their houfe is written, Jefu convene Angliam. Thefe nuns are called by fome the gal¬ loping nuns, becaufe they go abroad, &c. Th« A Journey thro 5 Part of the [Germ, The Auguftines church is very fair within. The Jefuits college is like a palace, being a great and high done building : their church hath a dately front adorned with thefe datues ; and, under each, their names, viz. on the highed top, i. Salvator Mundi \ 2. Tbafilo I. Dux Ba¬ varia ; 3. Otto Dux Bavarice 4. Otto Mag. Dux Bavarice \ 5. Car. Mag. Rom. Imp. 6 . Chrifioph. Dan'll Rex 7. Al¬ ley. IIII. die. Sap. Bav. Dux •, 8. Rupert Rex Romanorum •, 9. Maxi. Rom. Impe- rator i 10. Dud. IIII. Rom. Imp. Dux Bavarice •, 11. Albertus V. Bava. Dux ; 12. Guli. V. Ba. Dux Patro. 6? fundator , having a model of the chapel in his hand ; 13. Car. V. Rom. Imp. 14. Ferd. Rom. Imp. Below all the other datues, between the two entrances, is the brafs datue of St. Michael very curioufly made, and this following infeription in capital letters, Deo. Opt. Max. Sac. In ?ne?noriam D. Michaelis Archangeli dedi- cari curavit Gulielmus Comes Palalinus Rheni utriufop, Bavarice Dux Patronus id Fundator. The church within is a magnificent building, being one large and high arch. In the choir are feats, which we never obferved before in any Jefuits chapel. In the body of the church are feats like thofe in our churches ; and the red of the churches we faw in this city, have fuch feats. At the afeent into the choir is an altar, behind which is a marble ere¬ cted, with thefe three inferiptions, 1. Renata Lothar. et Barri DuciJJa feren. Guliel. V. Conjux et fundatrix , ob. an. Sal. mdcii. die xxm. 2. Gulielmus V. Com. Pala. Rheni Ulri. Ba- v var. Dux Fundator ob. An. ab Incarn. Verbi mdcxxvi. men. Februariidie vii. 3. Alexander PP. et Mar. circa An. dcxxt. et P. Aquam fale con [perfain populis Icncdicirnus ut ea Cun cl. afiperfi fiancii- f.centur quod fit cunClis fiacerdotibus fia- ciendum mandamus. The pavement is marble. Eleven altars here. After we had procured leave, we went to the duke’s palace, which is a very dately building, where we faw a long (but narrow) gallery hung on each fide with the pidtures of towns, iAc. to the number of 38, taken in the upper Pala¬ tinate. Huge dags horns, ific, ftr^ngely branched, kept here. We pafs’d then thro* many fair cham¬ bers, which have doors of Mofiaic work, and curious entrances of marble. In fome of the chambers were fair doves, in others rich chimnies, over which were the heads of emperors, (Ac. viz. Maximilianus Utr. Ba. D. SRI. Eleltor, Oftavianus Aug. Ca¬ rolus M. (Ac. two little rooms or cabinet clofets, one againd another, all of marble mod curioufly wrought, very rich dones being inlaid : a room where are the pic¬ tures of the prefent emperor and the feven electors: a fhort gallery with the pictures of this duke, his dutchefs, his father, mother, grandfather and grandmother, great-grandfather, (Ac. a long and nar¬ row gallery, having a curious roof, where¬ on are painted all the dukes of Bavaria , and all the rivers in Bavaria , and Bava¬ ria in the middle treading upon a barrel of fait. The two long galleries are very pleafant, having thorow lights, but they are fomewhat too narrow. All thefe rooms are above dairs, paved with vari¬ egated marble, and every one differently inlaid. Some of the roofs are of curious wood-work, others of curious plaider fret-work. We came down into a large lquare room called the four-fhaft, from the four dately marble pillars which fup- port it, each piilar being of one piece. We were in two little chapels and one great one. We then afeended 52 marble deps, each dair being four yards long. About half way is a landing place, where dand two dately white marble datues, under which is written, Othoni M. Witelfipachio altcri domus et prin- cipatus Boiarici Conditori. Carolo M. Im¬ perii Germanici magno Domus Boiarh.x Auclori. At the next afeent is a third datue with this infeription, Ludovico IF. Boiaro magno Romanorum Imperatori perpetuo ViClori magno domus nominifique Boiarici Amplificatori On the top of the dairs, on one fide are four fair marble pillars. The empe¬ ror is brought up this way into rooms called the emperor’s lodgings, where there is one chamber very large, having over the chimney a datue of Virtue in porphyry, between two marble pillars of Mofiaic work. Over the dining-room chimney is a curious petfpeedive picture made of .in¬ laid marble. We were brought down into the private gardens, where is a fhort rrhau dimmer gallery, which hath the walls of it rarely inlaid with marble Mofiaic work, repre- Germ.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 457 reprefenting feveral perfpe&ives of this garden, and figures of a dog, cat, pea¬ cock, flowers, (Ac. At the other end of the garden is a rare grotto made of fhells, where are alfo many figures of beafts, birds, and fifties, all exadlly made of fhells. The walks are paved with little {tones, handfomely inlaid: in another private garden is a ftately fummer-houfe, with a fair Mofaic table in the middle. The Antiquarium is a long arch’d room, moft rarely adorned with a multitude of antient heads, velfels, (Ac. Many of the heads are joyn’d to modern figures ; a fine perfpedtive of marble Mofaic work ; a brafs figure of a gardener pruning a tree in an odd pofture ; an idol brought from Mofco , which was an oracle •, the face, hands, and feet of it are black, the habit white, with figures of men, (Ac. on it, all of marble ; many curious foun¬ tains in the gardens and courts. In the firft court is a great ftone which weighs 364 lib. and was thrown with one hand by duke George Chriftopher , who did all'o 1'pring up with his foot 12 feet high, a nail being fix’d in the wall at that heighth. Cunrad , a lord of this country, fprung up nine feet and an half, and one Philip Springer , eight feet and an half. Dutch verfes by the three nails, exprefs the par¬ ticulars. Great gar- After vve had obferved this, We walked den ~ to the great garden, where are fair fifh- ponds, and water fpringing out of the fides of them ; many fountains and laby¬ rinths; in one of which is one of the ADo J s dutchefs’s dogs buried under a little ftone thus inlcrib’dt Qui fepolto Riman il Cane Cojlanle Chi morfe per amar crudele Amante . Rare plants are kept in this garden ; among which we took notice of coloca- fia and aloe ; which laft had one ftalk fprouted up as high as fome trees. An aviary here, which they would not per¬ mit us to fee. On two fides of the gar¬ den are two long open galleries, which are too narrow for their length ; one of them is very long, where are ftatues of Hercules his labours, pictures of the feve¬ ral months, (Ac. Here is the ftory of this Bavarian family painted in great paper frames, being the draughts of fo many pieces of hangings (kept in the palace) having inferiptions underneath, which I endeavoured to write out, but was forbidden, I know not why, to pro¬ ceed any further than thefe following I tranferib’d, viz. Vol. VI. Otto Mag. C. Pal. Witelfpack. Bavar. D. Skippon. German. Imper. majeftatem adverfus Gras- corum artes A fatliofos alios VI minifque repulfos ajjerit anno 1153. Greed Rom. Imperatoris et Imperii Admuli artibus et machinationibus falldcibus afeitis undique ex oriente fociis perniciem provin- cias et populos Ottone M. armis objiante trahere frufira conantur. Otto M. Com. Pal. Bav. D. Ac. The reft fignified other actions of Otto , viz. his breaking thro’ the Alps , coming to Rome to reconcile the citizens and the pope, his travelling in a private manner to vifit religious places in Italy, &c. This duke of Bavaria is about 27 years old : he married the duke of Savoy* s filler, and hath by her a fon and a daugh¬ ter, befides the hopes of another child, the dutchefs being now big. The grand¬ father, duke JVilliam, refign’d his go¬ vernment to his fon, and then lived and died privately in the afore-mentioned Carmelites cloifter. Maximilian, this duke’s father, married the emperor . . . filler. The duke hath 18 pages, among which the titular duke of Northumberland (who was the great earl of Leice/lcr’s baftard by the lady Sheffield ; and, upon his leaving England , the emperor . . . created him duke, and the duke of Florence received him into his court.) Sir James Hamilton’s fon, and one Mr. Birch , an Irijhman , are alfo pages. The duke hath 24 lac- quies, and 60 halberdeers, who mull al¬ ways carry their halberds with them; one of thefe was an Englijhman , with whom we had a great deal of difeourfe. Eighty horfemen, and too of the or¬ dinary guard. The dutchefs hath eight maids of ho¬ nour, four of which go away alfoon as Ihe fits down to meals. The duke of Bavaria hath three coun¬ cils. The firft confifts of 10 noblemen. The fecond is inferior. The third is for his revenues, (Ac. He hath alfo 104 that look after his caftles, and they are called chamberlains; 24 of which attend at court, and wear golden keys. Befide thefe he hath two high chamberlains. At Munichen , I.andjhout, Burgh aufen and Strazvlin are councils or parliaments. The government of Munichen is in a Govern- high and low fenate, each confiding o 12 perfons. The four confuls are of the upper fenate, who rule by turns; and when one of them digs, the two fenates 6 A chufe 4$b Skippon. Thefe towns are in Bran¬ denburg. German cufioms. Journey thro’ Part of the [Germ. chufe another out of the eight belonging lower fenate. If one of the lower fenate to the upper fenate ; and, when one of the dies, a citizen is elefted into his place, eight dies, another is ele&ed out of the The citizens fwear fidelity to the duke. It will not be amifs, in this place, to infert the following fpecifkation of what the emperor and great council of Germany gave to the king’s majefty of England 1655, when he was in exile, which I copied out at Munichen. Florins. Elector of Mentz 73 12 —— of Triers 4812 of Collen 73 12 ~—- of Bavaria 73 12 --- of Saxony 793 6 - of Brandenberg 73 12 - —— of the Rhene 3656 Aujlria 14624 Burgundia 14624 Epijcopus Wurtzburgenfis 5486 — ~ — ■ Paderborn 3488 - Monajler 3328 The imperial city Ratisbon 864 Epijcopus Ofnaburg in Wejiphalia 864 The palatine of Lauteree 160 - - Neuburg 2560 The dutchy of BrunfwigWolfenbutel 2740 ^ -of Brunjwig Zellijch 2880 Grubenhagen the greater 1144 —— the letter 144 S chwerin 1496 Collenburg 240 Razinburg 96 JduJtnn 1496 The dutchy of CaJJel Hejfonia 4060 The abbot of Hirjchjield 240 The earl of Darmjlat 2501 Lorraine (in the copy alfo is put) Normandie') g 4864 Florins . The lord of Lichtenberg 512 -of Eggenburg 192 - Lucawiz in Bofnia 304 Epijcopus Salisburg 2500 •- Strajburg 2500 —— Freyfingenfis 309 - Bajfow 158 4 The abbot of Hildejheim in Brunf t ^ ~ wick (bifhop of Collen abbot) y 1 0 Liege in Lieger Wall (Leodium ) 3840 The abbot of Marlach in Hejfonia 440 ——— of Bertholgaden near Saltzburg 312 —— of Stablo near Hildejheim / (alfothe bifhop of Collen) $ 2 ^° The earl of Anholt 565 St. Johtds knights in Strasburg 869 The imperial town Augsburg 11304 - Kempten in Algoy 308 The provoft of Elwang in Suevia 264 r 0 f Altenburg In Saxony. < 7jr A } Weymoiq- Gotha in Thuringia Eifenach in Hejfonia The dutchy of Aunjpach Hennenburg in Saxony 6 66 — 8 77i 8 77| 8 77i 1032 840 Sum is 141985 About two hours from Munichen , is Sleifum , where the duke hath a palace, and where they make very good cheefe, which is counted as good as Parmezan. Sixteen German miles from Munichen , is Hall in Bavaria , which affords great quan¬ tity of fait, that is brought hither, and kept in eight long ftore-houfes. Aug. 20. In the afternoon we went by coach over a level country, and thro’ fome woods to Crucky (three German miles from Munichen ) a great village, well built, and like our market towns : It belongs to an abbey of Bsrnardines here, who have two villages more. Neat baskets made here. The people in thefe parts are cleanly ; but thofe about Collen and Mentz we found not fo neat. In Germany and Switzerland moft of their windows are of round glafs, and the triangular fpaces between are filled up with pieces of glafs •, the cafements are great, and generally there are no iron bars in the windows, but in gentlemens,&V. houfes there are window bars like thofe in our prifons i within the cafements are little windows to draw open, out of which they put out their heads when they look out. In many inns when they bring up wine they bring alfo bread, with pepper and fait, on a trencher : When we firft came into our inns, the matter, mittrefs, and fometimes the fervants and children of the houle, would come and give us their hands, and do the like when we went away ; and almoft all perfons, as wag¬ goners, fervants, (Ac. would take us by the hand when we gave them any thing : In fome places the maid-fervants, when we were ready to go away,would prefent us with nofegays, which we requited with a fmall piece of money. About Bavaria we obferv’d when any one bad another good morrow, the other would fay, Deo gratias. Wine is dear about Lindaw , and all the way to Munichen , being fold for 10 wifpennys the quart; the Neccar wine is much efteem’d in Bavaria : The women about Strasburg in Switzerland , and in thefe parts of Germany , wear their hair braided into two twifts, which have firings hanging Germ.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 459 hanging down to their heels, and their cloaths are made with fhort waifls, begirt with a filver or tin chain, whereon fciffars, &c. hang. At Frankfurt in Switzerland and thefe parts they burnt frankincenfe in our chambers. They plough about Stras- burg, &c. with oxen, which are yoked by the horns: The country houfes are built low, with eaves that hang over very much ; and the countrymens houfes here¬ abouts are made of fir. There are four places in Germany which they call boors, viz. 1. Liege, 2. Collen, 3. Erfur, and, 4. Bamberg. In Bavaria and the adjacent parts of Germany the countrymen wear ftraw-hats. Aug. 22. We coach’d it thro’ woods and over fome plains, and in the way kill’d a curious bird call’d Rollar Argent or at enfis, of the bignefs of a dove, and of a blue colour ; which we found afterwards at Mejfina and Malta : Towards the evening we came into a fenny level, paffed by Frid- berg , a walled town, feated on a little hill on the right hand of us, and then after many windings went over the river Lech, and arriv’d at Augjbnrg , ( fix German miles from Pruck ) where we were examin’d at the gates by foldiers, and at our inn we wrote our names, which we gave to a foldier. 1. In the Foro Vinario is a (lately foun¬ tain, with the ftatue of Hercules , (Ac. cu- rioufly made in brafs. On the pedeftal js inferib’d ; Johannes Velferus 0 cl avian Sec. Fuggerus 1 1 viri locaverunt An. P. Chr. N. mdcii. Efyirinus Rehlingerus Marcus Velferus 11 viri 1 probaverunt An. P. Chr. N. mdcii. 2. A°;ainft St. Mauritius’s church is another fair fountain, with a curious brafs ftatue of Mercury. On the pedeftal is inferib’d *, Induflr'ue rebli Amore temperatce. Johannes Velferus Oblavianus Sec. Fuggerus 11 viri locav. An. P. Chr. N. mdxcvi. Obi avia nus fee. Fuggerus Efuirinus Rehlin¬ gerus 1 iviri probav. An. P. Chr. N. mdic. 3. Before the ftadthoufe is another {lately fountain, with the figure of Julius Cefar in brafs, and feveral other curious brafs figures. On the pedeftal is inferib’d. Anno a Col. ded. mdcv. Johan. Velferus 11 vir. probavit. PofitaAnn. a Chr. nato mdxci 11. Imp. Caf. Rudolpho P. F. Aug. bnp. Ccef Divi F. Augufto Parenti Colonia Augujla Vindel. The great church is indifferent, which Skippon. the Roman catholicks have the ufe of. Ca- nons here ; but the church belongs to an c h U rck de- abbey of the Auguftine Carmelites. dicatedto At the entrance into the college are thefe! St • u< ialn- inferiptions on ancient ftones, viz. I O M M T R SECCO VITALIVS VIGOR SIBIET VITALIO VIRILI FRATRI VIVOS FECIT. In a corner, nigh an arch, is this, CIVII SILANI LIRI LIBERTI NATIONE BITVRIX ANNO RVM. XIIX. H SIST. On the wall of the building, towards the ftreet, are thefe two following. I .. . OET BASSO CO. CVRIONI ALIII ET COS. ET FL. DECORATO LEG. III. ITAL ... VS . . . C . . . VIV. . . Under this is another thus inferib’d, Lapis hie Extra muros Menfe Martio An. Chr. m d c x l v 111. Inven. Antiqui Mem. hue P. Behind the wine ftorehoufe, not far from the great church, is a fquare marble pillar, adorned with eagles and cornuco¬ pia’s •, and, on the top, is a * pine apple, * F ; r the arms of the city. On the fides of the pillar is written, Dirigam eum ego ut Abietem Viretitem, Anno P. Chr. N. mdcx. The arfenal is a fair building, having a Arfenat. front like many of the Jefuits chapels. Over the door is a very good brafs ftatue of St. Michael beating the devil •, and, by St. Michael, are two or three lefier brafs figures. Under St. Michael is written. On this houfe is written alfo, Marc. Velfer.Jo. Rembol. ii viris. Pads firmamento , belli inflrumento. Here 4.60 A Journey thro ’ Tart of the [Gem. SKiproK. Here we faw twelve rooms well filled with cannon, and all forts of warlike in- flruments •, a great piece of brafs twenty foot long another cover’d with leather j an iron gun beaten out by the hammer. Twelve guns here called the 12 months. A piece with feven bores, to be difchar- ged at feven feveral times. Lutherans Auguf 2 3. (Sunday) we went to one of the church. Lutherans churches, where we obferved not much more than we did at Lindaw. The people did not turn their faces to the eaft ; but the minifler did, when he fell down on his knees, and faid the Lord’s prayer, at the conclufion of his firft pray¬ er, all which time the people flood very devoutly repeating that prayer to them- felves. After the laft prayer, a clerk began a pfalm, which the congregation joined in without the organ ; but, after the blefling, the organ, voices and inftru- ments made a concert; and, when all was done, many of the people flay’d a Avhile, and read fomewhat, with much devotion, in their books. This church is fquare within, and flat roof’d, like Covent-garden church. At the eaft end is a marble ereded with this inlcription, Chrifto Crucifixo Templum hoc A. mdcxxx. dirutum At lege fund ament ali Sac. Rom. Imperii pads univerfalis Aufpiciis AugujliJJimi Imperatoris Divi Ferdinandi III. Potentiff. Diva Chriftina Suecor. Gothor. Vandal. Regina Feliciff. initee. Rejlaurat. Confecrat. A. mdcliii. Sumptibus Aug. Confejf. Regum , Eledor. Dncum. Princip. Comit. Baron. Rerump. Macenat. Civium. Quib. pro dementij]. promota Pace recuperata fidei libertate Benigniff. piaque munificentia Omnibus denique beneficiis Grates immortales H. monumento S p SfAuguJlan. Aug. Confejfonis L M Spondet. The old The old ftadthoufe hath fair pictures ftadthoufe. painted on the out-fide, with thefe two infcriptions under the ftories, viz. 1. Otho magnus Auguftam Vidor ingreffus. 2. Textores honoris caufd clypeo donati. In the fuburb, nigh the river, which runs by the inner wall, is an ancient ftone, with figures dancing, and underneath is written. Prifca. artis. quis. Infantum. ludos. vides. Sed. &. omnis. at as. omnis. ordo. Indus . eft. The houfe of Jacob Fuggerus. His wi- y iCob dow hath many curious pidures on the Fuggerus outfide, and the hiftory of them explained his houfe. by thefe infcriptions following, viz. 1. Imp. Caf. Friderico Augv.fio invido prin¬ cip i. 2 Ob c apt am & expugnatam urbem Terto- nam trophcea pofuere S. P. Q. Germ. 3. Vidoria Imp. Caf. Friderici P F Augufti nati ad ceternitatem nominis Garmanici. 4. Quod infignem infubrium perfidiam jujlis ultis eft armis D. D. 5. Forliffimo , piiffimo ac felicifftmo Principi Imp. Caf. Friderico Auguflo. 6. Romanis in fidem receptis imperio propa¬ gate D. 7. Imp. CaJ. Auguflo Friderico pri. nobilijf- mo & invidiffimo Principi. 8. Cujus invida virtus fola pietate fuperata eft. 9. Deftat Tortamia Erferuug. Votofufcepto pro falute & reditu Imp. Caf. Friderici P. F. Aug. 10. Kaifar Friederich Barbarofa. Expeditio in orientem fufeept. An. Saint. MCLXXXVIII. 11. Das Schlaben Mailandmit. Lycaonia & Armenia & Syria recepta. 12. Zerfterans der flat. Fhurcisift Sarace- nis profligatis. 13. Die Beleer vy Romund. Bonusprinceps Dei eft fimulachrum. 14. Aus Flieung Desbabft. Maximis vir- tutibus raro parcit iniqua fortuna. 15. Dervene. D. 0 . M. Imp. Caf. Fride¬ rico piiffimo & chriftanijf. Principi. 1 6. Diger Zwan cenus des Kaizer Jorgb. Pramaturofato magno Reip. Chrift. de- trimento prarepto. This family of Fuggerus is now but in a mean condition. The cathedral church is an indifferent building, where we faw the pidures of the bifhops of Augsburg from St. Dionyftus y created A. D. 618, till the fifty third bifhop 1598. Many Germ .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. ^61 Many altars and good pidures here. Towards the weft end is erefted (againft a pillar) a marble, with this following in- icription. Imp. Ccef. Ottoni Aug. III. ex gente magni Wiitekindi Saxon. Reg. Ccef. Oltonis Aug. II. Fil. Ccef. Ottonis Aug. magni nep. reg. Henrici Aucupis pronep. Oltonis Ducis Saxonies id Rom. Imperii gubernatoris abnep. Luitolf Saxon. D. atnep. Brunonif- que Saxon. D. id JVittikindi Fratr. trine- -poti ob. x. Kal. Febr. Anno Saint, mii. Regni xix. Imperii v. quod vifccra ejns hie condita jacent , Fridericus III. Dux Saxonies Princeps Eledor Comes Provin- cialis Furingice March. Mifnice id Sacr. Rom. Imperii locum-tenens generalis pro- genitorib. dulciff. faciend. curavit. Sal. ann. mdxiii, v. idus Maii. Nigh the north door of this church is a fountain that runs conftantly. The Do- In the Dominican church I tranferib’d minican thefe inferiptions s church. H S E Joannes Bayerus jurifprudens et inclutce reip. Augujlanes Advocatus Ajlrorum Cognitor, Cceli metator , et nobili Uranometrice opere public! not us, omnifqantiquit at is Jludio- ftfflmus perveftigator, Rhaince Boiorum Anno cioiolxxii. natus exin Nonis Martiii cioiocxxv. Anno Sacro Au- gujlce denatus cum annos tres et quinqua- ginta ccelebs vixifjet , cui adnota fibi et fa- miliaria fidera cum Jigno crucis, cujus laudes dum animam ageret cecinit tranfeunti mento ex poeta accinas. Felices animez quibus here cognofcere primis, Inq\ domos fuperas fcandere cur a fuit. Non Fenus aut Vinum fublimia pedora fregit , Aldus humanisy exferuere caput: Admovere oculis diftantia fidera nofris, Alt her aq-, ingenio fuppofuere fuo. Sic petitur Caelum. Deo Sabaoth. Julius Velferus Math. F. Ant. N. Gallia , Italia, Hifpania , Luft. peragrata bellicce Virtuti fe addixit. Imp. Rudolpho II. contra Pure as militavit Ordd. Sucvice Jli- pendiis bis cccc pedites duxit , tandem in patria excub. militarib. annos xxi. cum laude preefuity bonis chaws, gravis ne- mini, vixit ann. lx. m. ii. d. xxi v. ob. an. S. mdcxxv, nx Calend. Febr. Re¬ gina Rembolda Jo. Jac. F. Uxor, natarum quinq-, ex ipfo mater , fdtsi, amoris, Indus Mon. P. Qui nos hie conjunxit ct fepar. in ccelo ceternum conjungat. Mors ultra non eril neq\ luflus, neq\ clamor, r.cq-, dolor. Vol. VI. D. O. M. SuirroN. Michaeli Velafco Jo. Velafquei F. preefeelo ales Hifpanorum, Philippi Hifpaniarum Prin- cipis Caroli V. Cefaris Aug. F. maxima hofpitiorum defgnatori qui Pbilippum ex Hifpania in Belgium & Germaniam fe- quutus hie obiit , Uxor dolens animo F. C. On a grave-ftone before an altar j D. 0 . M. Chriftophoro Fuggero Ray. F. cede hi inter affluent ias temper at iff. Fr. et Fr. Filii H t- redes altare hoc ad Dei gloriam et monu¬ ment um illi pejf. 0 anno mdlxxixiiii Non. April, cetatis anno l i x menfe 11. In a little chapel on the fouth fide ; Hoc diviner dementia: propiliatorium ad pree- potentijf Dei majorem honorem id gloriam omnium fdelium pie in Chrifto Redemptore fuo, defundorum folatium, in fui fuorumq, perpetuam memoriam erexit, Purgatorii flammis Flamma Chriftiani amoris coar- dens Joannes Francifcus Im. Hof. Anno MDCLV, In the Sacrijlia are many monuments of the Rembold family, fome of which we took notice of, viz. Joannes Cafparus Rembold. trium Imperato- rum Ferdinandi II. & III. ac Leopoldi I. a Conjiliis Reipublicce Augujlance Prce- fedus. Anno mdclxiii. Hune mihi meifquepofui lapidem, Dcus ponat fines no- Jlros , pacem id requiem. Manor brevis cevi. Joannes Cafparus Rem- boldus de Neufeff. S. Ccef. Majeft. Fer- dinando II. id III. a Confil. id Reip. Aug. duumvir Joannis Jacobi duumviri F. Vivus fibi mortuo id Jacobince Bech- leren charifflmce fuce conjugi I. liberifque ex ea fufeeptis, Marice, Margarita-, Joanni Jacobo, Marice Francifce , RIarice Eli- zabet. id Annce Marice Alterfhamerin a Finf.ng. id Obernbach charifflmce fuce con¬ jugi II. liberifque ex ea fufeeptis Philipl o Cafparo, Marice Fherefice, Annce Mo¬ nica, Joanni Francifco, Regina Barbarce, Cunigundi Hilarice, Afrce Cilarice , hoc monumentumP. A. mdcliii. Natus eft A. mdxcvii. xxiii Junii. Denatus' A. MDCXX. P recur e vivis beat am mortem, mortuis vi- tam. D. O. M. S. Joanni Jacobo Remboldo in Neufeff. S. Ccef. Majefi. Ferdinando II. a confiliis id reip. Augufice duumviro, nato A. Mdli i i. de- r.ato mdcxxiiii. id Jufiince IVefierince 6 B ledfflmce A journey thro 5 Tart of the lebliffima conjugi natce A. 1618. denata A. 1644. dilebtiffnnis parentibus Joannes Cafparus Remboldus pofuit A. m d cl i i i. Sta viator , panels te volo fub anguflo mar- more conditus jacet , fub cujus duumviratu Augufliffima e mar more curia A Arma¬ mentarium furrexit. Duumvir remp. Au- guft. xx an nos felicit er rexit eandem con- filiis fuis univerfm 48 annos erexit I. nunc (A apprecare ei ut feliciter refurgat. At the weft end of the church ; LeAor Aveto Erat Joann.Faber Sacres Fheologia artiumq ; Debtor , Ordinis pradicator. Congregates German. Vicar Generalis Prior Augujienf. edem banc facram ruinam ob vetujlatem minantem , partim Apojlol. fedis beneficio , partim vero civium Auguftentium eleemofynis LeoneX. Pont.Max.acMaximilianoP FP P Gleijf. Ceefare remp. Chriftianam guber- tiant. Fab. Proc. Hiero in Hof. et Mclch. Stunte Augufien. max. laboribus ac incre- dibili cur a Deo opt. Max. Marie Virgini , Marie Magdal. Joanni Evang. atq •, Divo D ominico Ord. Preedicat. Parenti infra triennium (vix credes) a fundam. F. C. Annoy.?, mdxv. x Septemb. Vale et abi, hoc velim ut feires. rum , Ac. Anno Salutis mdvi. vii Kal. Oblobr. ob. vita ejus felicitatem erat Joan. Fabr. devotiff. pofitum Ann. Xf/s* mcccccxvi hi. Oppofite to the two laft are thefc two following, viz. Imp. Ceef. Carolo Aug. V. maxima , Ceef Fri- derici III. pronepoti , Ceef Maximiliani Aug. et Ferdinandi magni Hifpaniarum regis nep. Philippi et Joannes Hifpaniarum regum filio ob felieem ejus elettionem ab univerfo populo Cbnftiano defideratam de fe anno at at is xx. unanimi principum elec- torum confenfu fablaut, 1111 Kal. Julius S alutis Anno mdxix. Principi clement iff. Frater Joan. Fabr. Fhcologus Ordinis S. Dominici devotiff. pofuit. Anno reparationis humana mcccccxx. Ferdinando Princifi Hifpaniarum Archiduci Aujlrie Duel Burgundie Ceef. Frederici 111 Aug. Pronepoti Ceef Maximiliani Aug. et Ferdinandi magni Hifpaniarum Regis Nepoti Philippi et Joanne Hifpaniarum Regum Filio Caroli Imp. Ceef. Maximi Aug. V. Fratri Germano Principi Pien- tiffimo. Frater Joannes Fabr. AuguJianus Prcedicatorh ordinis devotiffime pofuit. Anno humane rejlaurationis mcccccxx. Deo Opt. Max. Caierifq-, Divis , fumma religione moti Pa- tricii ac Cives AuguJlenJ. quorum hie vides infignia univerfa pene Europa armis labo- rante pientiff. domum hanc Kb lapfum pene minaretur fuis ampliff. eleemofynis d fun- dam infra triennium faciundam auxilio fuere. Anno Xj. mdxv. die x Septembris. Towards the top of the north fide of the church ; In this church are alfo the monuments of Joannes Velferus ob. 3 Kal. Sept. 1596. Lambertus Gruterus Epif. Neapol. ob. 14 Aug. 1562. D. Alphcnfus de la Rofa. Xtoph. Hoerman a Guttenberg III. Dcm. Fug. Matthias Kagerus , pibior. Imp. Ceef. Maximiliano Aug.pio felici. Hung. Dalm. Croatiaque Regi , Ac. quod fuum Auflr. Archiducatum ec etiam Rom. Imp. pacatv.m reddiderit , auxerit , ampliaverit quodq-, Philippum Fil. A Carol. Nepot. Hifpaniarum Reges confiituerit vixit ann. l v 1 1 1. menf.Y 111. dieb. x v 1111. obiit IVelff. die xii Jan. Salut. an. mcccccxviiii Regni Ann. xxxm. Princ. Opt. Chri- ftianaq ; religionis accrrimo propagnatori Fr. Joann. Fabr. Augufien. Fheologus Mafejl.fua a confilio devotiff. faciendum curavit atq •, pofuit mcccccxviiii. Philippo Catholico Regi Hifpaniarum , Ac. Imp. Caf. Maximiliani Aug. A Maria D.Burgundia,Filioqui vixitannis xxvi 11. menf. 111. diebus 11. obiit Burgis Floren- tiffima atalemagnaRP Chrifliana jablura reliblis Patre A Ftliis pupillis Carolo Regr A Ferdinando Principe Hifpania- Antonius Xtoph. Rhelingerus 1 ivir 1612. Joannes Baptifla Schekenbergius 34 Cof. On the fouth fide is a little chapel, with monuments of the Rhelingeri. At even fong we obferved the monks come out of their choir, (which is not publick as in other churches) and divided themfelves, half on one fide and half on the other, a lay-brother carrying before each fide a lighted candle ; then they ftood before the two chief altars, and one of them fprinkled^ioly water about, and after they had fome lervice they returned into the choir again. This is, they fay, en¬ joined by the pope for fome dilpute they have about fome little circumftances. On Germ.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 463 On the inner gates of the city are good pictures, with thefe inferiptions on three of them, viz. On the holy crofs gate, Fridericus Suevite Dux volunlariis Augufia- norum copiis fubnixus , Patris Ahenobarbi Imp. aufpiciis in Ajiam profechis iconium vi cepit Anno mcdlxxxix. Cunrado III. Ccefari Auguftani militem et pecuniam decernunt , eumque in Syriam proficifcentem et Damafcutn obfidentem ju- vant Anno mcxlvi i i. Fridericum II. Imp. Auguftani adverfus Sara- cenostranfmarefequuntur. An. mccxxi ix. On the virgin Mary’s gate, Matthaus Langus Patricius Auguftan. Card, et Archiep. Legationis Princeps Romano- rum Imperium ab ElePonb. nomine Caroli Auftrii petit et impetrat Anno mdxix. Matthaus Langus Patricius Auguftanus Car- dinalis et ArchiepiJ,'copus Anno 1523. Sa- lisburgenfes fupplices in fidem recipit. On another gate, Attilam anno cdliv. Fanatic a mulier in Lyci tranfitu conjlcrnat ter horrende incla- mans retro Attila. Othoni magno Cafari Berengarius Pater et Adelbertus Filins Italia Reges Augufta fe dedunt An. dcccclii. Albertus et Rudolphus Rudolphi Cafaris Filii Auftria et Suevia Ducatibus a Patre do- nantur Augtifta. Anno mcclxxxii. Nigh an out gate, not far from the ar- fenal, are the imperial arms, over a great gate, and this inferib’d ; Carolus V. Romanorum Imperator. Aurea Libertas heec Propugnacula fecit , Ilojli ne fiat prada cruenta fero : Sic tamen id nomen Domini fortijfima turris . tormina , tela , facem Qui T id vigili nil nifi vana facit. Covfulibus Georgia Her wart et Imprethto Hofer. A', dihbus vero Joanne Welfcr magno Scicxz et Georg. Wei land. Anno MDXLilir. A Benediftine abbey in this city. The Papifts have many churches here, and the Lutherans fince the peace have fix churches. On the houfe where they exercifed their Skippon. religion before, is this infeription •, Dco, uni ejfentia , trim perfonis Maximo Optimo Sanbtiftimo, Ecclejia Chrijti con- feffionem Auguftanam prof tens pio voto hanc domum confecravit Anno A. R- D. CIOIOLXXXI. The Lutherans are reckoned to be about as many again as the Papifts in this city •, and before a plague which raged (they fay) only among the Lutherans lome years ago, they were a far greater number. In this city are feven mens and five Englifh womens cloifters, one of which are Englifh nms ‘ nuns, like thofe at Munich en., who go abroad. Before the peace the Jefuits had two colleges, and the Francifcans two con¬ vents •, but now the Jefuits have but one, where we faw a Latin play well afted by the fcholars ; the title of it was, Innocentia d Zelotypia condemnata , id a S. Udalrico prodigiose vindicata. In this city by the habits you may know the women of what religion, quality and condition they are of, ex.gr. whether they are widows, married women, or maids, whether they are merchants wives, idc. The Roman Catholick gentlewomen wear their hair loofe, but the Lutheran gentlewomen tie their hair up under a hat. The government is equally divided be¬ tween both religions. The government is thus, as far as we Govern* could learn of it. There are 2 Prafelti or Duumviri , called ftadt- flagers, one a Lutheran, the other a Papifl, who take place by turns every half year; each hath a ftipend of 1000 dollars per annum. 5 AfTeflors; Thefe feven make the private council, and are all Patricii. The ordinary fenate confifts of the aforefaid feven, 24 Patricii Antiqui , 4 Patricii Moderni , 3 Merchants, 7 For the citizens. In all 45, out of which arechofcn fix confuls, or burgomafters, whereof 3 Are Patricii Antiqui , and all papifts, 1 Patricius Modernus , ^ 1 Merchant, L Lutherans. 1 Citizen, 3 Thefe burgo-mafters rule two every four months, one being a Lutheran, and the other two papifts, taking place by turns. Three queftors, two of which are of the private fenate. ment. Three 4 6 4 StClPPON. L/'YX* A journey thru Part oj the [Germ Three s.Ediks , two of them are Patricii antiqui , and the third is a Patncius mod. A great council of 300, on the 3d of Auguji every year, confirm or eleift new officers, if they mifbehave themfelves ; but ufually the fore-mentioned continue for life. Every magiftrate that fits on caufes thrice a week, is allow’d a dollar for every day he is prefent. Note, When a citizen marries the daugh¬ ter of a Patncius, he is immediately repu¬ ted a Schalljhaff, or Patricius modernus. We obferv’d one morning, when there was a council, two chains that crofs’d the market-place near the ftadthoufe. The beadles, or under-officers of the town, wear party-coloured coats of green and white. The night-gate, where people are let in when it is late. There is firft a great gate, then a bridge over the trench, a little iron gate, a draw-bridge, and three gates to be pafied before they are admitted within the walls. The gates, and the draw¬ bridge are all moved by wires, which open and fhut the locks, doors, and draw up, and let down the bridge. They that move the wires, (land in a lodge over the inmoft gates. We pafied through fuch a gate at Mandelheim. They that enter here mult pay a fmall piece of money. All the doors of private houfes in this city are opened and fhut by wires, which are moved by thofe that are above flairs. The water-works we obferv’d to be after this manner. The wheel A, turned by water, moves the axis B, C, which axis hath at d, half its circumference cogg’d, and the other half at e, is with coggs. The fuckers s s, at d e, have teeth, and, when the coggs of the axis meet with the fuckers teeth, the fuckers are alternately mov’d up and down, being joined by the chain / to the pully g. The fuckers draw up water through the valves if, and, when one fucker draws up the water, the other forces up the water through the pipe P P, into a high tower, where there is a great ciftern, where the water is diftributed in¬ to the fountains and private houfes. There were many of thefe, and other wheels and fuckers, and one wheel that brings up water in pitchers fix’d round in the wheel. A little ciftern, by which they know the proportion of water, how much will run in an hour, (Ac. We faw here a little brafs figure given by the duke of Nett- burg. In a private houfe we faw Archimedes his Cochlea, which is double, and ufed to raife up water. We faw accidentally the latter part of a A ™«r- marriage-folemnity among the Lutherans. "***' When the minifter had done, the organ play’d all the while the company were go¬ ing out of the church. The men came firll two and two together, every one hav¬ ing an Armilla of box on his wrift. Then came the women by two and tw f o, drels’d with white linen about their heads, very like the jewifh women at Frankfurt , and habit¬ ed in gowns like our fophifters in Cam¬ bridge, only they had neither capes nor fteeves. Every woman had alfo an Ar¬ milla of box. After thefe followed the bridegroom, with a garland in his hat, which fome of the men that went firft alfo had. After him went many men, and next came little girls before the bride, and many women. Almoft every one gave fomewhat to the the poor as they came out of the door. The ftadthoufe is a very fair building, StaMou the neateft, after that at Amflerdam, we yet faw. Over the entrance into it is written, Publico Confilio , (A Publico: Saluti. Within, on the firft floor, is a hall pav’d with marble, and eight fquare pillars of marble fupport the ceiling. Over this is another hall of the fame bignefs, having the pavement and eight round pillars of marble. In this ftory is the council room, in the middle of which is a grate, even with the floor, through which heat is convey’d out of a ftove underneath. In the third ftory is a very ftately large and high room, with a marble floor, but without pillars. In all our journey hitherto we faw not the like. The roof is curioufiy painted, and the walls adorned with the piiftures of Cofars, &c. and richly gilt. Here all the magiftrates are chofen. On each fide of this great hall are two rooms (which have doors made of pear-tree) for the feveral magiftrates, not marbled, but plancher’d in the floor. In one of them were fome piiftures of Kagerus his drawing, and, on a wall, is Solomon ’$ judgment done Germ .j Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 465 done by the fame hand. Three pictures reprefenting a Monarchical, Democratical and Ariftocratical government. The prifon is behind this ftadthoufe. One Cornelius JValpergen , Chriflopher Beck was one of our merchants, who is a Calvinift, his, and one family more, be¬ ing all in this city. We were civilly entertain’d by one Hue- vener a Patricius and a Ratjheer , at whole houfe we faw an Aviarium in the garden, and fountains, one in the middle oi a table, where he plac’d a little figure in a fhooting Girins P°ft ure > and, ou t of his gun, water pro- andwater- ceeded. A pretty little grotto made of petri- works of fied earth, (Ac. About half an Englijh mile one iluc- ouC t j ie c j t y 5 h e fi iew ’d us his pleafant gardens nigh a little river, where he hath a wheel which forces up water to ferve feveral fountains. In the middle of the gar¬ den is a pond, where he keeps Indian and !Turky ducks, and many water tortoifes. An artificial rock, out of which water runs plentifully, and drives four or five little wheels. A little ifland, and an ar¬ bour in the middle of it, raifed upon a higher ground than the reft, which was almoft level with the fuperficies of the water. An artificial grotto, where were two figures, one in a fitting pofture, with a book in his hand ; the other a grim fel¬ low Handing in a corner. At a whiftle, a fervant Handing behind the cave, privately caufes the water to overflow the level of the ifland, and the floor of the cave, where¬ at the company being much furpriz’d, endeavoured to keep themfelves dry in the higheft place, which is near the fellow in the corner, who, afloon as they came near him, kick’d them, and ftruck them with his hand, and the other with his book was remov’d. When we were thus frighted, a whiftle, or any other fign, commands the water down again to its ufual heighth. Over this cave is an arbour, and, by the fide of it, a little tower, where there is a bell, and two or three ropes, which, if pull’d, a difh is turn’d with wa¬ ter in it, that runs down on the ringer, if he does not carefully avoid it. At the fame time this difh is pull’d over, a head is mov’d, which looks out of a window. A little fummer-houfe, where the figure of a man throws out water. Above, on the rail of a balcony, is a pipe, on which is fix’d the figure of a drunkard, who fpews out water, and, when he is taken off, other figures may be put on like thofe at Ileidleberg , (Pc. Another fountain, where the water came up very plentifully through a great hole ; and, to make a ftrange un¬ expected fight, fix ducks, which are put into the water privately, are forced to come up out at this hole. In the middle Vol. VI. of a garden plot is another pipe, on which Sku-pon. feveral things are put, which move round with the water. In the fummer-houfe we obferv’d a board, with round holes made at equal diftances, which they play with, by throwing brafs pieces (Handing at a cer¬ tain diftance.^ They reckon fo many to¬ wards the game as flip into the holes. In this garden is a pretty perfpecftive at one end of the walk, where are three wooden pillars on a fide in a perfpedtive way, and painted. A door alfo is opened, and then there appears a little model of a houfe built upon arches, placed a little diftance off, and behind that are planted four or fix fmall fir-trees; all which together make a very fine perfpedtive. We were beholden to one Mr. Perke- nair a merchant, and had fome difcourfe with one Mr. Stringfel the town fecretary, who had been in England , and could fpeak a little EngliJJj. One Mr. Cock , a Patricius was very civil to us ; he is reputed a learned man ; he makes glades, and tries chymical experiments, who hath been in England. He gave us fome hints concern¬ ing a dial, which he prefented to the duke of Bavaria. In a glafs were put of oyl of tartar and fpirit of wine- an equal quan¬ tity, wherein fwims a hollow globe or fil- ver, with a little piece of a loadftone, or fmall piece of iron touched by a magnet, in the middle of it. This ball fwims be¬ tween the two liquors, and round the glafs are deferib’d the twenty-four hours, and on the globulus is fix’d an index or little fifli. This glafs mult be plac’d over fome clock-work that moves a load¬ ftone. Such a dial Gajfendus writes of in his life of Piereskius made by one Linus fan Eng¬ lijh) Jcfuit at Liege. This imperial city of Augsburg is in¬ differently fortified •, the town is large, the ftreets broad, and the houfes very fairly built of ftone. Molt of the men wear black cloaks j the better fort have them long like mournino- cloaks. Many coaches kept here by the Patricii , (Pc. The coachman fits on the left horfe, as they do in molt parts of Germany. This place is not very populous for the bignefs. In fome of the ftreets grafs grows. Before molt of the tradefmens lhops are feats, where the mafter, mi- ftrefs or fervant fits. Molt of the women wear blue or green aprons. Their cloaths are made fhort- waifted, and they have, round their waift, a filver or tinfel chain with their knives, (Pc. In this city are made odd knacks, as pi&ures of habits, chains for fleas, (Pc. 6 C August A Journey thro' Part of the [Germ. Ski r fox. Dona- \vert. WeifTen- ber«;- O Nuren- berg. it. Lau¬ rence church. Augv.fi 28. with a coach and four horfes The place where the facrament is kept, we rode through fome fir woods •, and, is made of one curioufly carv’d {tone, after fix Gentian miles riding, we pafs’d which reaches to the top. Under it are a wooden bridge over the Danube^ v/hich three ftatues of the workman, viz. 1 When is here about twice the breadth of the Cam at Cambridge , and, on the other fide, took up our lodging in Donawert , a pretty wall’d town of the duke of Bavaria’s , fitu- ated on the riling of a hill. Augtifi 29. we pafs’d very bad and dirty way, and came thorow fir and pine woods, and through two wall’d towns, Monhaim and Papenheim. About the middle of this day’s journey, we traveli’d by a great monaftery, called Kaifer’ s cloi- fler, i'eated in the woods. At night we reach’d Weiffentierg (five German miles from Donawert ) a wall’d and free town, Here we obferv’d, on the gate and fladt- houfe, a hand cut off, and an ax painted, to admonifh falfe witnefies, &c. The inhabitants are all Lutherans. Nigh this place is VViltzburg , a flrong fort on the top of a hill, that belongs to the marquis of Anfpach, a Lutheran. Augufi 30. we travelled a little way, and pafs’d through a fmall wall’d place call’d Pleinfeldt , and, before we baited, we faw on the right hand a nobleman’s caflle ftrongly fituated on a hill, and at three miles difiance from Pleinfeldt , we baited without Roff, a wall’d town of the mar¬ quis of Anfpach’s •, and afterwards we rode by two ftone erodes, which, they report, are fet up in memory of two huntfmen, who fhot, and killed one another in thefe two places, 260 paces afunder, having this day travelled feven miles from Weifjenberg, fandy way, and through fir and pine woods. Two hours from the two croffes, we arrived at Nurenberg , where, entring the out-works, foldiers examined us, and then we pafs’d a draw-bridge over a dry trench, lin’d with a lione wall on both fides, and came through the wall gate, nigh which is a flrong ftone tower, with many pieces of cannon on the top of it. St. Laurence church is a fair fione build¬ ing, having two organs in it. In the fouth fide of the choir is a handfome monument thus inferib’d in High-Dutch. Vongottes Gnaden SOPHIA Geborne Ilertzogin Zu Braunfweig und Luneburg Herrn Georg Fridericus Marggraffen Zu Brandenburg Hertzagen Zu Pruffen , etc. Wittibe Ifi Geborn den 3 Oclobris anno 1562. Seliglick gefiorbenden 14 fanuarii 1 639. Wittibe Gebliben 36 Jahr. Altworden 7 5 Jahr. 2 monat. 14 tage. , Round the choir is a flone-gallery. he began. 2. When he finifhed the work. 3. When he died. They fay, he loft his fight with poring on (and carving it.) In the middle of the choir hangs a cru- a crucifix. cifix worth 20000 /. Sterling, of beaten gold in a great bag, which is never fhewn to any except twelve magiftrates be pre- fent. The altar picture deferibing the paf- fion of our Saviour is curioufly drawn by Henrick Wendener 1614. We faw a fmall chapel built in imita¬ tion of our Saviour’s tomb by three Pa- tricii , who travelled to Jerufaletn purpofely to fee it. The hofpital is a fair houfe, having a rhehofpi- neat and large church. In the Sacrifiia is t*l. an Afylutn. The caflle is in the higheft part of the Pht caflle. city, being built upon a rock, with a very deep and broad dry trench round about. On the inner wall are the prints of two horfe-fhoes upon a ftone, which were made by a horfe, whereon one Eppene Van Caligne , a prifoner, efcap’d, by leap¬ ing over the trench in this place, holding a gold and filver cage of birds in his hands. The fladthoufe is a flately building. TheflaJt- Within is a little court, and a fountain in houfe. the middle of it. Above flairs are two open galleries, where the floves are kindled that warm leveral rooms. Over the floves are ornaments of ftone. The uppermoft gal¬ lery hath a fine fret-work ceiling, repre- fenting Patricii that run a tilt, fpedlators, &c. The chambers are handfome, furni- fhed with good pidlures. In one room is a curious perfpedtive of the hall below, and the citizens homage to the emperor. At one corner is written, Rupertus Haver, inve. del. et pinx. Nor mb. Homagium Leopoldo Imperatori Prafiitum. D. vii. Align. Anno mdclviii. In the middle chamber of the upper flory are fair pictures of Fred. II. Matthias , Ru- dolphus II. Sigifmundus , Rudolphus I. Caro¬ lus M. A picture of Adam and Eve done by Albert Durer. A fair pidlure of thofe who were feafted here together at the pro¬ claiming of the peace. Among the reft we obferved Carolus Guftavus , the prince pa¬ latine of the Rhene. A pidture of the fladthoufe, and wine given among the people then. A pidture of the hofpital. A night-piece. Below flairs is a long arched hall, with the emperor’s triumph, &c. painted Germ.’] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 467 This following infcription is alfo here j Skippon. Sifte Viator Aquam Virtutibus profiuentem Virtutes in Aqua refplendentes intuere , Aqua Accretionis Principum confift entice Virtu s eft, bine inexhaujla corporis et animee falus tu dum tempus cjjluit ftatuas has fadlis exprime fub ASdilitio munere Burkardi Loffelholzi a Colb erg Triumviri. In the other ftreets are many fountains, one very fair of ftone in the market-place, which is a broad fquare piazza. There are alfo many wells in the ftreets, having a crofs beam of ftone that refts upon two pillars, on which hang two buckets at a well. The Dotno is not fo fair a church as The Domo ; S. Lawrence's •, the body of the church is dedicated very narrow, the ifles being as broad or Sc ^' broader, but not fo high •, in the middle C of the choir, before the fhrine where S. Se- baldus's reliques arc kept, ftands a wooden crofs, made by Albert Durer , which the duke of Bavaria offered its weight in gold for. On the north fide of the choir is written, painted on the fide ; at the upper end is inferib’d ; Salus Populi Suprema Lex ejlo. S P £fNP Honori ac Memories fempiterna illujtrifflmorum Burgundice et Brabant ice Duciim , nec non Flandrice Comitum ob Vedligalium immunitatem per eorutn diti- onem Civibus Noribergenfibus benigne con- ceJJ'am. Poft. S. Imper. Ludov. IV. Augujlo Boiorum Bata - vorum Cannenufatium Belgicx Secundee Frifiorumq-, Duci Principi Optimo et de Repub. Noribergcnfi bene merito. On the wall of the ftadthoufe is made a frog, which a ftranger is to take notice of, that he may mention that as a tefti- mony of having feen this place. Before one of the doors of the ftadt¬ houfe lies the longeft ftone that is in the ftreet’s pavement. Nigh St. Lawrence’s church are three fountains *, that in the middle is very handfomely adorn’d with iron bars and brafs figures *, and thofe on each fide are painted, and thus inferib’d under the im¬ perial arms, MDCLV. Luflro poft feliciter pacatam Germanicam horum fontium latices ab imis fundamentis refiaurati renovati et publico emolumento ornamentop•, in uberiora effluvia fubdudti fub regimine Patrum Patrice. Afflyria under the picture of Nimrod ; and Perfia under Cyrusi Under all is water pouring out of a bucket, &c. and, Sic Unda Undam urget. Round about the top is written ; Fcecundct pax alma Urbem dum lympba pe- r emits. Utile jucundo mifeet et vena fluit. On the other fountain is Grceca written under the pidure of Alexander M. and Romana under Julius Ccefir : Two tri¬ angles fix’d on bafes, and Fortitudo Conflans. A hand from heaven putting a crown of Jaurel on fc lamb, and Patientia Vidtrix. A hand, &c. holding a flower-de-luce, and written, Induftria Sagax. A palm tree, and Bencficentia Fcecunda. A fword with a laurel wreathed about it, JuJlitia mitis. A lyon couchant, Vigil anti a per Nox. A fnake about a lyon’s neck, Prudentia Tuta. Under all is a reprefentation of antient ruins, and this written, Meat Irremeabile Tempus . Aufpice Chrifio , Honori et Glories Sacro Sandice Trinitatis Magnific. et Nobiliffl. Senat. decreto Templum hoc renovatum eft Anno Domini cidioclvii. Ecclcfiar. et Scholar. Ephoro et Curatoribus , Gfc. Two organs here, and a fair pulpit of wood : Here are fix or feven altars, where mafs is faid in High Dutch . Before a little altar, on the north fide of the high altar, is a burning lamp : The high altar is of wood, and richly gilt: Round the walls of the choir-ifies are fair pictures. In this and all other churches of the Lutherans here every woman hath her coat of arms or mark on her feat. N. B. In this city the Lutherans feem to be nearer the Papifts than any we yet law ; they preferve images in the churches and on the corners of ftreets, &c. We faw the funeral of a widow in the a funeral. ftreets: Firft, four high poles like banners were carried, then followed many finging boys j next about fix minifters in furplices and round caps, after them came the corpfe, and then a great number of wo¬ men : No men at this folemnity befides the minifters. They bury all in church¬ yards without the city. On the church doors hung a table, with a writing that fignified the death of a perfon of quality. In one of the churches we obferved the Lutheran fervice in the morning : In the choir fat fix minifters in their furplices ; one of them went to the altar between the 4<58 SkII’PON. Hot-houfes. The Go¬ vernment. Cujloms. A Journey thro 9 Tart of the [Germ, the choir and the body of the church, and whilft he read with his back to the altar, every one flood with their faces weftward ; when he had done, he returned to his place, and then a great company of boys lung in the llreets. Several boys that are maintained by the raagiflratesgo about the llreets finging. Every morning there are fermons in the churches. The Roman Catholicks have one fmall church. The Calvinills are many, who have a church about a mile from the city. Thorow this city runs the river Manus, having many bridges over it, one, near the lhambles, (which are very fair) being one large arch ; at a corner of the but¬ chery is an ox carved in Hone, and this diflich under it 5 Omnia habent ortus fuaq-, incrementa,fed ecce Afuem cernis nunquam Bos fuit hie Vitulus. In this city are many hot-houfes ; in one of them we obferved a paved room, kept very clofe, and heated by Hoves; a little time makes thofe fweat that fit here. In thefe houfes are alfo artificial baths, which the better fort have in their own houfes. The government is in 42 magiflrates, which confifl of 26 Burgomaflers, two of which are regent every four weeks. Eight fenators. Eight for thefe trades, viz. 1. Gold- fmith. 2. Butcher. 3. Tanner. 4. Taylor. 5. Baker. 6. Brewer. 7. Furrier. 8. Lin- nen-draper. Thefe eight fit in council once in four weeks, to advife about trade. Thefe 42 magiflrates cr ratlheeren chufe a new burgomaller (when one dies) out of the eight fenators. In great affairs a council of 500 citizens is affembled. ' Triumviri. Five of the fenators judge caufes. We were told that but fome of the Pa¬ trician families w r ere capable of the magi- ftracy. In ecclefiaflical matters the fupervifores are governors, the eldefl minifter called difpofitcr, and the next two called feniores: They have no power to excommunicate, the magiflrates determining. This city had formerly a burgraffe, the marquifs of Brandenburg , (fome faid the earl of Anfpach) \ but now there is no bur¬ graffe, and a great enmity between this town and that family. Every evening about nine o’clock a fellow goes up and down the llreets fing¬ ing, and gives notice of the time of night, and bids the people put out their candles. About the fame time and at three in the morning trumpets are founded. The houfes of this city are high, and very fairly built of Hone ; the llreets broad and handfome, but the buildings are not fo uniform as thofe in Holland : one thing they are to be blamed for, which is the calling of dung into the middle of fome llreets: It is very ufual here to fet pots of flowers, (Ac. on ledges without the windows of their houfes. Tuefdays, Thurfdays and Saturdays are market days •, all things are fold very cheap •, birds alive of all forts are brought every day into the market, and they fell (to eat) jays, llarlings, wrens, titmice, (Ac. The women (moll of them) wear great fur caps, fome of which are worth ten dollars apiece, and have Ihort cloaks about their fhoulders others have green plads. Many curious knacks made in this city. At our entrance into Nurenburg we ob¬ ferved a Hone channel that convey’d water in their ground. Sept. 3. We hired our Augsburg coach, and this day in the afternoon rode through fir and pinewoods, and after three German miles travelling came to Altorf , a little Altorf. walled town, the houfes indifferently built. An univerflty in this place •, the college ^nunivtr • is like fome of our lefler colleges in Cam-fty. bridge, having a fountain in the middle: 3 8 lludents are maintained here by the raa- gillrates of Nurenburg, who appoint a praefedt that governs the town for life. Docflors of law, phyfick and poetry, batchelors of divinity, and mailers of arts, are the degre.s conferred here. The phyfick garden is well ftored with The phyfuk plants, (among which we obferved as a £ ar * en ' rarity here our common furz) where we received great civility from dodor Mauri¬ tius Hoffmannus, who hath publilhed a ca¬ talogue of plants : He fhewed us many curiofities, viz. Fungi Monfirofi, repre- fenting feven heads of Turks found here¬ abouts in 1661 : Vila Marina, found plen¬ tifully about Bales: Glojfopetra, i. e. a lhark’s tooth: Penna Marina: Several Cornua Ammonis found in thefe parts: A fair PAdmites found near Altorf: A fala- mander frequent hereabouts it is black with yellow fpots, and is viviparous: Cucurbila reticulata five Luff a Arab. Rofa Hiricuntica, the leaves whereof expand in warm water : Pila Rupicapri: Spongia Co- ralloides : Two books with 3000 dry’d plants; one of them is full of plants col¬ lected in the Padua garden, and other places in Italy ; the other book is of plants in this garden, and wild hereabouts: The bones found in the ear: A little wooden head curioufly imitating all the futures, and other parts in a human head: An artificial Germ.~] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, France. 469 artificial eye of box, and another of ivory, with the optic nerve, tunica, hu- A wa^on mours, (Ac. The model of a waggon to go with- invented by a lame perfon in this town, outahorfe. w i 10 u f es every time he goes to church, and as he fits in it can move and dire£t it which way he pleafes, without any help of horfes, (Ac. after this manner. In the waggon at A is the place where the lame man fits, and turns the handle B which is fix’d to a wheel C the cogs whereof move the cogs o f another wheel D which runs on the ground. Thofe two wheels C D are within a box, except at the bottom where the wheel D goes on the ground. At E that box can be mo¬ ved either to the right or left upon cogs on the body of the waggon. On the hibernaculum plantarum is in- fcribed, B. F. Vita et Valetudinis humana prafidia Mira varietate et Copia fefe ojlentantia Cur am minim arn colligenais dijcernendi maxumam sEqualem facilemq, reddi Horto in hoc Medico Paulo pojl. univ. Cond. adornato Quicunq\ cernis Gratus incl. reip. Norir/iberg. beneficiuvi agnofce Naturae munijicentiam fuperans Cujus perpetuitati juvandce Nobiliff. et Prudentiffmi Dm. Georgius 1 m Hoff ~ Vir Leonhardus Grundheer VII Vir. Jod. Chrijloph. Krees d Kreffenjtein Jacobus Starck d Reckenhof Senatores et Scholarcha bene Merentiffimi Magno Salutis Commodo Reiq-, medic a incremento Hibernaculum hoc plantarum d fundam. Extr. curar. PrafeElo Oppidi Chrijloph. Andrea Im Hoff. Botanico Mauritio Hoffmanno Doff. A. C. CIOIOCLVI, On the fummer-houfe in the middle of the garden is written,' Civis , Amice , Advena , Qui Horti amanitate cupis obledarier Modejliam et Continentiam Comites habeas Flora cujlodes. Vol. VI. Over the anatomy theatre door Skippon, within, Quifquis es qui teipfum noffe amas Intus quis et in cute Sis Hue ades et Jludiis preedit us fortibus Diffediones fpeda humani corporis Simulqy grato animo Inclyta Reip. Norirnb. beneficium agnofce Non hie Motni feneftra Sed parvum theatrum ejt Nobiliff. et Ampliffimi Dm. Scholarcha Georgius Im Hoff. Septemvir. Albertus Poemer. Jodoc. Chrijloph. Krees d Kreffenjtein Leonardus Grindheer Senatores bend Merentiffimi Magno Acad, incremento F. F. Redone Magnifico Willielmo Ludwell I^° Anatomic0 Mauritio Hoffmanno Decano Medico A. CIOIOCL. In this theatre the feats are round half the room, where we law the fkeletons of men, bear, ftork, fquirrel, dog, ram, moufe, wolf, lynx, &c. very exad: pictures exprefling the feveral fchemes of the mufcles, nerves, arteries and veins in their full proportions. Auditorium JVelferianum is written over the law fchool door, which is a fair room ; and over the profeffors feat, Deo Uni et trim Sacrum. Sebaldus JVelfer Patricius Augujlanus et Noribergenjis locum hunc publicis Altor- fiana Schola ufibus dejlinatum fua im - penfa exornari fecit Cal. Junii anno d nato Chrijlo mdxxcii. We faw the mathematick and the philofophy fchools ; and the divinity fchool, which is a large room. In a cloiftered walk is this infeription, B. F. Hocpietatis et Dodrinarum omnium laudand. domicilium inclytus Senatus Noriberg. li- bcraliter extrui curttvit die quae B. B. Petro et Paulo Sacra inav.guravit et pub¬ lic avit anno Chrifti Salutis mdlxxv. im- perante D. Maximiliano II. Caef Aug. P P. Curatoribus Ecclef. et Scholarum Georgio Volcomero , Philippa Gaider0 et Hieronymo Baumgraffnero , Oppidique praefedo , Balthafare Baumgraffnero. Ades 0 Deus et piis conatibus volens pro- pitius fave ut certe favor exinde Numinis eluxity dum annos quidem mdlxxviii. Subfcribente Votis laudatiffimi Senatus audoritate et dementia augujliffmi et invidffimi imperatoris Rudolph. II. Cu- 6 D ratoribus A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Gem. 47 ° Skippon'. raioribus Hieronymo Baumgraffnero, Vi- libaldo Selliffelfelder, Bartolomeo Poemero et Julio Geudero , culmen Academics Gymnafium evexit, tandemqy annul Mr. Cbrijl. mdcxxiii. ejufdem Senatus de- fiderium Sanftiffimum profperante divi- nitus pleniffima indulgentia Sacratiffmi C afar is Augufti D. Ferdinandi II. Scho- larchis Chri(lophoro Furero, Georg. Chrifl. Volcomero Udalrico Grundhero, et Carolo SchliJJelferdero, Univerfitalis titulo pri- ‘ vilegiifq •, perbeavit, ivze proprium hoc nobis, bonum 0 fons aterne boni. Sept. 4, we coach’d it, being a very bad way, (in many places mended with wood, as is ufual in Germany, ) and through woods, paffing by an old caftle on a hill on the left hand of us, and at two miles diflance from Altorf, after a fhort exami¬ nation by foldiers, entred Nieumarkt, a little wall’d town of the duke of Bavaria's, having one broad ftreet, and a fountain in the midft of it ; two miles further we lodged this night in the ftraw at a poor village call’d .... where we found Cornua Ammonis and their matrices. Sept. 5, we rode through woods, and at three miles diflance came to Hemming, a little wall’d place under the duke of Newburg ; here we obferved, as we did at Rott, Altorf, ike. that as foon as we came into the town, a trumpeter on a fteeple founded. From hence we went over hills and bad ways, through woods, and then over a bridge crofs the Nab, a pretty river that runs into the Danube. The villages hereabouts have been much ruin’d, the houfes are built of ftone, very low and mean, covered with wooden fhingles, whereon great flones are laid, the windows are fmall. In the evening we came into profpecl of the Danube and the city of Regensburg or Ratisbon, then pafs’d through a great village called Stattamhoff , and went over the bridge (where foldiers examined us) crofs the Danube, and fo made our arrival at katisfcon. Ratisbon. That bridge hath many guards and fentinels about it, it is long, broad, and built of ftone, having arches, and a pave¬ ment of fquare free-ftone : In the river here are little iflands, one of which is large, with fome houfes in it, being join’d to the great bridge by a wooden bridge of fix arches. In this ifland noble¬ men, &V. come and fpend part of their fummer evenings, taking the air and dif- courfing together. Many mills here, which have water wheels made after this manner. - - 4 ) The Danube affords feveral forts of fifties. On the fhore we found Limacis fpecies ? In the iflands are many mills to faw wood {Note, that in Germany but one faw is moved by a wheel) grind corn, blow forges, beat, leather, millet, pepper, &c. we obferved the millet and pepper was put into mortars where the ftamps beat the grain to powder. A mill nigh the bridge, where fwords, &c. are fharpen’d ; on the end of the houfe is a figure of a man holding his hand over his eyes, and looking towards the great church, con¬ cerning which we were told, that two workmen, the mafter and the fervant ftrove who fhould finifh their work firft,; the mafter undertaking the church and the fervant the bridge, which being firft done, the fervant went up to the top of this houfe, and fat crofs, looking towards the church to fee what his mafter had done •, but the mafter perceiving himfelf outwrought, for anger threw himfelf headlong from the church, and broke his neck. This city is indifferently built of ftone, but the ftreets are narrow *, many noble¬ mens houfes here which make fome fhew ; fome houfes are painted on the outfide, moft of their roofs are not fteep like thofe at Augsburg, Nurenburg, &c. but rather flattifh. Many fountains in the ftreets and market-places. Some women here wear furr caps, but moft very broad brim’d hats, with little crowns and cloaks. The chief inhabitants are Lutherans, Trinity who have feveral churches, one of which is dedicated to the Trinity, being a fair broad building, fomewhat like Covent- Garden. In all their churches they have galleries, and in thefe parts they have altars. On the Lord’s day we obferved part of their afternoon fervice, viz. The minifter in his furplice went to the altar and read, then the whole congregation fung, and the organ play’d ; after that he read again, and repeated the Lord’s prayer aloud, and then they fung again, without the organ ; in the pulpit after the minifter had read, he repeated the Lord’s prayer a fecond time, and the Creed, then they fung again without the organ. The minifter repeated the Lord’s prayer a third time, but that was to himfelf, all the congregation being filent. The great church is well built, the The great body being high and fair ; in the middle chursh. of it is a very handfome monument of. marble with a brafs figure of a bifhop praying to a crucifix ; on three fides of it is inlcribed, Philippa 'm.~] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 471 Pbilippo Gull. V. F. Com. Pal. Rbeni, Bciorum Duel, Eccl. Ratisb. Antift. Rom. Card. Principi incomparabili ante diem mala tabe confecio et ebcu rcb. human, erepto in fumma fortuna , in avi jlore , in incremento honorum , magno pa- rentum, magno Fefjq-, lutu illacrumante funeri primam ingemifeentib. extern mcejlis omnibus iratis orbi fuperifq\ in hoc Principe ojlendere quantum bonum dare pojjekt terris quant, darent ccelis. DeftderatiJJimo Fratri Maximilianus Princeps Rerum in Boia potens F. C. deceffit xvii Cal. Jun. An. cididxci ix. Ait. xxii. Viator quid rogas quit fuerim ? qui fun tnagis roga, Ebeu , magna Umbra magni Principis, hie in tenebris ago et in Pur¬ pura cinerefco infer, feibam hoc olim fu- turum, tarn cito nefeibam. Subitum fata properavit Numen mea, veni in banc vitam ideo folum ut exirem, tu quid fperes. Ah ! vani fumus, et dum non fumus, et dum fumus, Vita ad mortem iter eft , et quod borrefeis necejfe eft mori et ebeu necejfe ell mori futuri incertis. Viator abi et redi pojl paululum, eras Voles, hodie Venies. Et adhuc hie ei Viator , jam infequitur, M te prehendat pallid. Lictor, ibis , heu ibi s ad verendarn fedem ubi judex terret, ubi ornnes tremunt, multi aceufant, nemo defen¬ ds, et ibis idtra, quo, ebeu, quo ah infer, quidquarts, fper are potes, timerepotesprout ‘v'vvere potes, feire non potes et horam et fententiam, numen oceulit ut tu videas, abi et vide antequam Supremum Oculi Caligent et eceeus ebeu eeternum erres, quod erraris. Nigh the altar the emperor Rudolphus erected, is the monument of Albertus IV. Epifc. Ratisb. ob. 12 April, 1649. In the choir are thefe monuments, viz. Henrieus dt Abfperg, Epif. Ratisb. ob. 1495. Dorn. Conradus Epifc. ob. 16. Kal. Mali. Pancratius ob. 1548. Georgius de Nobiliff. famil. Merefcballorum in Papenheim, ob. 10 Dec. 1563. Vitus ob. 1567. 21 Jan. David ex famil. Rboelperr de Burckjlall. ob. 2 Jun. 1579. Sigifmuhdus Frider. Fuccarus, ob. 5 Na¬ ve mb. 1600. In the fouth fide of the church is a well. An altar in the north ifle of the choir, Skippon. with thefe two inferiptions following, D. O. M. Deipara maxima Matri, maxima Virgini, Divo Proto-Martyri Stephano , in cujus Sacram ALdem anno 790. Epif- copalem fuam fedem Adelwinus ex D. Emerammi migravit, D. D. calitibus quorum ara pie olim fed fine lege pojita pie et ex formula adornanda Ecclefia cefferunt, ad honorem piis delude Jubmor- tuorum Altarium fundatoribus Hen. II. Epif. qui aram D. Barbara V. M. Georgio Preunero D. Canonico qui S. S. Trinitatii Nicoiao de Redwitz Canonico qui S. S. S. Sebafliani Lucia et Dyonyfi, Kafpari Kuntnero D. Canonico qni tranf- figurationis Domini et S. S. Crifpi et Crfpiniani M. M. Conrado Sinzen Ho- fero Canonico qui S. Barthol. Apoftoli caterifqqui S. Tboma, trium Regum , S. S. Georgii, Mauritii Pantbaleonis et ALgidii aras fcli nunc Deo Cognito libe¬ rals ate fundarunt ad perehnem devoti affedlus piaq •, munificentia memoriam, fibi deniq-, per bonam operam (non per folam fidem) vocationem fuam et eletlionem certam facere fatagenti ad aternam fa- lutem lethi memor banc aram condidit ip- ffqy S. Stephani Feriis eidem devote di- cavit. Albertus 4. Comes de Torrihg Epif. Ratifpo. ei S. R. I. Princeps. Sifle Viator et difee hanc qui Deo Divifq-, Jlatuit aram non omnem in ed confumpjit liberalitatem ut cum Deo inter Calites viveret, Deum ei calites cum viveret munifica Sollicitus manu multimode ac per- magno fumptu eoq\ ex hareditario affe collefto eft veneratus, turres, principc Campand, teiloq-, Sacrarium veftitu pre- ciofo, Jacris D. Juflini Lipfanis et pra- grandibus ex are Candelabris locupletavit, cborum geminis his aris S. S. Stephano et Andraa facris cinxit, eundem marmoreis aperuit gradibus, Fabrdq-, fumptuofe can- cellatum clauft tranfenna, parietes nobili utrimque penicillo fornicem concameratione ad Cborum produtta Columnarum epiftylid parietum projedluras Bafilico dijlinxit auro atque it a te quoq-, Divos Colere et tud de fubflantia Deum honorare vivus docuit, nam aurum teflamentarium haredi quidem eft aurum, Deo prope eft fcoria, in Vita illud erogas manus retentura nift mors fe- ciffet liberalem cui gratiam qui accipit de¬ bet, fane cum noftri effe definimus, non noftra fed aliena damus, I licet Viator et tarn luculento doElus exemplo, preemitte opes ad fupremum puteal, fequeris expedi¬ tion, ditior, latior ita pollicitur fbi tibiq •, Albertus 4. Comes de Torring Epif Ra- tifpon. S.R.I. Princeps hujus Ara muni- fiantiffimus Fundator. An. 472 A Journey thro’ Part of the [Germ. SxirroN. An altar on the fouth fide of the choir Over the Francifcan cloifter gate is hath this infcription, written. Viator Sijle , psrlege aram quam confpicis S. Andrcere Apojlolo facram confenfu Con- radi IV. Ratisbonenfis Ecdefies optimi Pont if ds Patrui fui , Conradus Comes ultimus de Luppurg propter animes fues falutem anno mccxcix. primum dotavit et illam aliquot piorum Vota Secunda fun- daiione adauxerunt ad pedem Altaris RR'mi quondam Paires DD. Pancra- tius, Georgius , Vitus, David , Sigifmun- dus, Frider. Omr.es quinqy Reginoburgici Ant if it es SRI Principe s Mitrati cine ref- cunt. hie prorfus parcitur nemini et mori eheu necejfe eft omnibus quifquis es f pins es pro magnis umbris bundles preces ad Deum fundito , eras tu vel hodie quod nefeis fecuturus et adhiic fas lector quin pergis , nefeis quod nofira vita nil nifi iter ad mortem confpice ad iter fe presparantem Albertum hujus nominis IV. Epifcopum Ratisbonenfem ex illufiri Baronum de Torring profapia natum qui mortalitatis fues memor et fragilitat. humance probe fdus monumentum hoc fatuis lapideis et marmoreis columnis illufre Redempt. fuo Opt. Max. ejufdem gloriofce Matri Vir- gini et SS. fuis Patronis csviternes grati- tudinis fymbolon ante diem vivus pofuit , Lampadem perpetuis ignibus coram nutri- endam fundavit , ad fui ipfius et fuorum RR’rum et illuflrium Antecefforum qui- bufeum fe gloriofe in ilia die refurredurum fperat memoriam totiufq ; pofieritatis exem- plum anno d partu Virginis mdcxxiv die viii. menf. Mart. The canons of this church are noble¬ men, who wear over their furplices a fear- let hood not much unlike to our doctors in England. The biffiop hath no autho¬ rity in the city. The under officers of the church have blue gowns and furplices. On a great houfe nigh the chief market place is painted an embaffy from the duke of Mufcovy , and this under-written, Legatio Mufcovitica ad Imp. Maximil. II. in Comit. Imp. Ratisb. xvm. Julii MDLXXVI. Other painting, and thefe inferiptions, Rudolphus D. G. Rom. Rex eled. xxvii Odobr. . . v. m d xxv. Ratisb. preefentib. Votis. ArCe RatlfponaproVeCtVs In JEthesra Cesfar Ccsfar alt fill DIVe RoDolpbe Vale . Anno Dorn, mdcxiii. IX Kal. Novemb. ad laudem Dei et gloriam Dei Beatijf. Virg. Maries et S. Mathies Apofl. cruets tropheeum et primum lapidem Ecclefus monafierii ordinis S. Franeijci Capuccin. Matthias Rom. Imperator Hungarics et Bohemies Rex , (fie. plantari et poni curavit feliciterq-, Ecclef. et Monafterium ipfius imperat. et principum imperii ac multorum piorum Chriflianorum Eleemofynis extrudes fiunt. On one of the city gates not far from this cloifter is written, Divo Ferdinando II. Rom. Imp. S. Aug. Ger. Hung. Due. Burg. March. Morav. Com. 'Tyrol. Pr. Hon. et obferv. SPEER. FF. A fort was now building near this gate; the wall of the city is ftrong, and on this fide there is water in the town ditch ; the outworks are good. The government of this place confifts of 40 officers, viz. Sixteen fenators. Twelve appointed to decide controver- fies among citizens. Twelve cholen by the trades. Six of the fenators are burgomafters, and when one of them dies, the eldeft fenator fucceeds. Every two years a chamberlain is cho- fen by the fenate. The emperor makes the magiftrates of this city, noble, who are all Lutherans. The under officers Wear red coats lined with green. The imperial diet fits in Ratisbon, which is a council or parliament of the whole empire, every ele&or, prince and city fending a deputy. We faw the rooms where the diet aflembles ; firft the Churfurfis Camer , where the electors (or their deputies in their abfence) chancellors and fecretaries fit j in this and another room we obferved fweetmeats flood ready in difhes j over the door here is written. Quifquis Senator officii caufa Curiam ingre- deris ante hoc ofiium privatos affedus omnes abjicito , iram, vim , odium , ami- citiam , adulationem , publiccs rei perfonam & Curam fiufcipito , nam ut aliis eequus aut iniquus judex fueris ita quoq-, Dei judicium expedabis if fufiinebis. The next is the Sail , a great hall where all the chambers of the diet meet the Germ.l Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 473 the firft day of their feflion, and when the emperor is prefent ; the firft of Ja¬ nuary laft they were all convened, and the archbifhop of Saltzburg fat in the throne reprefenting the emperor ; the throne is ordinarily four fteps high, but when the emperor himfelf is here, it is raifed one ftep higher. The fpiritual electors have a feat at the end on the right fide of the room* and the temporal on the left; below all the fecretaries of the electors, (sfc. have their feats. Rich hangings adorn’d this Sail then. They intend to build a new Sail after this feflion. The 3d room we faw is the Rycxftatt Carrier , where the city deputies fit. The 4th is a handfome room called the Furjlens Camer , in the middle is a table the Rycx marfhal, the fpiritual and temporal debtors fit at. In this chamber is a curious brafs clock made in imitation of the great one at Strasburg , having figures, &c. that move i the moft re¬ markable motions are the three eaftern kings palling by the virgin Mary , and each of them giving her a bow of their bodies. yefi.itscol- The Jefuits have a college here ; and lege. Bleau of Amjlerdam hath a bookfeller’s fhop in this city. Nigh this city the river Regen runs into the Danaw by Rhein- haufen , a village. Sept. ir. we hired a boat, having a little cabbin in the middle of deal boards, which carried us down the Danube to Vienna •, we pafs’cl this day by hills on the left fide of us, and meadow or plain grounds on the right ; on the left hand v/e had Than aft au a little village and caftle feated on a hill ; a river here runs into the Danube.. This caftle about 30 years ago was taken by fome Bavarian rufticks, who rebelled and ruined this place, and flopp’d the paflage of boats by a chain crofs the Danavj •, but they were afterwards fupprefs’d and punifh’d by the duke. We went here under a wooden bridge of 15 arches ; on the 2d arch nigh Thonaftau Hands a wooden crofs in memory of one that fell off the bridge and was drowned. Three miles and an half from Ratisbon we pafs’d in fight of Wert, a caftle on the left hand on a hill by the river kVifent, that runs into the Danube , and belongs to the bifhop of Ratisbon. The Danaw hereabouts winds very much, and hath a gentle ftream •, two miles and an half further we reach’d Straubing. our lodging at Straubing , a pretty wall’d town on the right hand, under the duke of Bavaria ; at the gates foldiers exa¬ mined us and took our names •, the build¬ ings here are handfome, there is one long Vol. VI. broad ftreet, with two fountains, and in Skippon. the middle Hands the ftadthoufe. Here the Danube is kept up by a dam, and is brought aDout clofe to the walls of Strau¬ bing, where there is a wooden bridge of four arches. We met on the river many great boats, fome with people that fled from the country about Vienna, for fear of the Turks , and fome laden with fait. The duke of Bavaria appoints a go^ vernour of this place. In one of the churches we faw a monument of doctor Johan. Tajfmer der Artzneii of Zumpurg. Sept. 12. We pafs’d on the left hand by Pogen, where a church is built on a high hill v four miles from Straubing we went under a wooden bridge of about 30 arches, here on the left fide of the river is Derckendorj, a wall’d place of the duke of Bavaria's, •, a little diftance further we pafs’d by the mouth of the river lfer, and. afterwards on the right hand had a pro- fpebt of Ofterhoven, and not far from thence on the left fide came by Hoffkirchen a fmall village ; a little further on the fame fhore is Hilckersberg , a fmall caftle on a hill ; hereabouts the fhores began to be rocky, and all along in the river we faw great ftore of wild ducks, lapwings, herons, &c. we pafs’d under a wooden bridge of 12 arches, fupported by ftone (on all the bridges of this river that we pafs’d under is a crofs eredted about the middle) and arrived eight German miles from Straubing at Vilftjoven, a little walled Vilfhoven, town on the right hand, well built of ftone, having one pretty little ftreet, and three handfome fountains •, at one end of the ftreet is a fair tower. On a gate that leads to a bridge over the ... . which runs into the Danube, is painted the duke of Bavaria's arms, and a bullet, with this inferibed. Anno * MDiin in feriis S. Lucies Civil as * 15-31 hcec ab hofte graviter oppugnata et cbftfta eft unde hoc fignum globi cernitur 1631. Nift Dominus Cuftodierit Civil at em, fruftr a vigilat qui cuftodit earn, Pfal. exxvi. M DCXXXI. This night arrived here three great boats full of foldiers, fent down againft the Turks by the city of Nurenberg, which hath alfo given 20000 florins towards the war. Sept. 13. We pafdd by a pleafure houfe of the Jefuits, and a little further, four miles from Vilfhoven, we went under a wooden bridge of twelve arches at PaJJaw, Paflaw. a city on the right hand of the river, upon a high fhore : it was formerly built with fair ftone houfes, but now w r e faw nothing befidcs ruins, and fome mean houfes •, there happening about 6 E three 474 journey thro ’ Part of the [Germ. Skippon. about three quarters of a year before, a molt lad fire, that ruin’d all the houfes, and many churches. This city belongs to the archduke of Infpruck , who hath be¬ llowed 50000 dollars towards its repair. The citizens are efteemed rich. The gnat The great church hath a choir fairly church, built of ltone, on the louth fide whereof is written, O VAelt. Anno Dom. mccccvii. in die Sti. Stcphani proto martyris Patroni hnjus eccle- fiee gloriofi inchoatus eft hie chorus , poft- titprimarius lapis , hujus fundamenti Colie • • • • atrem ift Dojninum * • * * * ' * • repreefentib. There is a bifhop of this place, over the door of whofe palace is written, Aulam hanc a Gotfrido a JVeiJfeneckh E P C A. D. 1345. cedificatam fed vetuftate fere collapfam reftauravit & magna ex parte de novo excitavit atg •, in elegantio- rem form a: n redegit Urannus d Treirbach. P. Pat. Anno Dom. mdlxiiii. This place is feated at the meeting of the river In and the Danube , on the weft fide of the 7 //, over which is a bridge that leads to a town called Inftat , right againft which, on the other fide of the Danavo, is lltzftat, fo called from the river Iltz or Ifijfus. Here there is a caftle on a high hill. From Vilfhoven the hilly fhores, on both Tides, were fhaded with pine woods, &c. and from Paffavo we obferved the Danube to have a fwifter ftream than before. We pafs’d by Schnaiderfnijfell , a houfe built upon a little rock on the right hand •, and farther on Hands a rock in the river, with a crofs upon it. Then we went by a caftle on the left fide, and after¬ wards, on the fame hand, feven miles from Pajfaw , faw Nayhottfe caftle on a hill, where fome rufticks that rebelled againft the emperor garifoned themfelves, and chained up th e Danube. This rebellion was about 34 years ago •, the author of it, one Stephanus Fatinger. General Pa- penheim flew thoufands of them in battle, and difperfed the reft, and the ringleaders that were taken punifhed according to their defert. In the evening we came to our lodging at Afch, a pretty fmall village of the emperor’s, on the right fide of the river in the upper Auftria. The people of this country are efteemed very flout and hardy. Below this village, for fome diftance, there are no hills by the Danube. Afcb is 12 German miles from Viljhoven\ September 14. Early in the morning we took boat, and had, on the right hand of us, a rock called Mons Calvaries , there being a pretty little chapel built upon it. Hereabouts again we began to have hills on both fides the river i and, from that chapel, we obferved fix altars before we came four miles from Afch to Lintz, a very L ; nt z. neat handfome city on the right hand, feated on the fide of a hill. The houfes are fairly built of ftone, and have all of them flat roofs. The market place is very handfome, being a large fquare piazza, with two fountains in it. The ftreets are badly pav’d. On the higheft part of the town is a fair palace of the emperor’s, Emperor's where there is a pleafant profpedt of the palace. Danube and the adjacent country. On the palace-gate is inferib’d, Rudolphus II. Imp. Ceef P. F. Auguft. Rom. German. Hangar.Boem. zc. R x Archi-D. Auftr. Dux Burgund. zc. Anno m d ci i i i. At this city lives the earl of Weiffenwolef, the emperor’s deputy, or Landtfhaujfman of the upper Auftria , the emperor having fuch a deputy or governor in every one of his countries. The Jefuits church hath this following jefuits infeription on a pillar, viz. church. Raris Jlellis ijlis mors alfliilit ratios perenniores. Morarc tantifper Viator & extinPtum medi- corum fydus fub pariter infgnito ad dex- tram mar more venerare , hie eft Johannes Gregorius d Glanz, vir avi fui Hippocra¬ tes, trium Auguftorum Ferdinandi III. & IV. & Leopoldi magnus Archiater , nec non fupervori Auftrice a confiliis , Galenas, rarus medicus, qui ad fummam artem prope juvenis evaftt , ideoq-, a Ccefarece expetitus aula umverfis confpicuus , in du- bia falutifq •, oracula dab at, dum nonnihil frattis ex labore viribus eidem vale faciens mortis invidiam preematurius incurrit, e vita ereptus ipfo cetatis xliv. innuente anno , ne per plures feelix JEfculapius morti pergeret eripere , defecit nolle exeunte ut fe fydus probaret ad Auroram evanef- cens , ut mortuum feias feelieiter bora 710 A is illi fecunda fuit , eaq\ intra oftavam Epiphanies quo crederes! feeliei ftella dace earn per aliam viam reverfum in regionem fuam , difee Viator quam caduca vitee lux ft, quando qui earn largiuntur aliis tam cito occumbunt, hefternus Dies ilium rapuit, te craftinus perftolatur abi & veni ■, Mcsfta conjux y iv Filh P P. Nigh a hill we faw at a diftance, is great quantity of fait made of fait fpring waters, at Munchen in Auftria , which is carried up the river to Ratisbon, &c. After we had feen Lintz , we took boat again, and went under the wooden bridge here, that hath about 22 arches; and fome diftance Germ .} Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 475 diftance we obferved but fmall hills on the fhores, and in Tome places levels. All along in the river are many little illands. A mile from Lintz we pafs’d by a hand- fome houfe of a nobleman, feated on the left hand upon a hill. Two miles farther, on the fame fide, is Mathmfen , a pretty village, where we faw the ruins of a wooden bridge, which crofs’d the Danaw. Before we came to this place, we had a profpedt of a pretty town called Intz , feated on the right hand, by the river Ens , fome di¬ ftance from the Danube. Seven miles from Linlz we had hills again on both fides the Danube ; then, on the left hand is Greine, a village where the earl of Lichlenftein’s houfe is fituated on a hill, and where there is a neat cloifter. A little below the Greine is a little village on the fame fide, where we fafely pafs’d a dangerous place call’d Twoilange- Strom, the Danube being here much rous pajpt- ftreightned by the fteep fhores, and the in ^ e ftream running very fwiftly among rocks. " nuJe ' On the right is a crucifix upon a rock, and on the left hand a ftone tower. Then we pafs’d by a deep and ftrong whirlpool call’d the IVerble, nigh a rock on the right hand, which makes a promontory in the river, whereon ftands a tower. Within this laft year fifty perfons perifhed here. When we had efcaped thefe two places, at St. Nicholas , a fmall village on the left fide, a fellow came to us in a little boat, bringing an alms box with the image of S. Nicholas , and begg’d our charity. Some diftance farther, under a high hill on the left hand, is another fmall village, which, The fall of about two years ago, was in great dan- fa/t of a ger by reafon of the forefaid hills falling hill. \66v. down, making fo great a noife, that it was plainly heard at Ips, which is a little place we pafs’d by on the right hand of the river. On the left fide we went by a val¬ ley which parts the upper Auftria from the lower, and where, nigh the Danaw, we faw many at work ere&ing a new fortification. An hour before we law Tps, is a caftle on the left hand, that belongs to the earl of Haois. At night, 11 miles from Lintz , we arrived at our lodging in Marpach, a fmall village on the left hand, where we could find only ftraw to lie on, the people having fent away all their beds and houfhold ftuff for fear of the Lurks, who were about ioo Englijh miles off. September 15, about one of the clock in the morning, having the benefit of a clear moon-fhine, we entred our boat, and paft by Melke , a rich cloifter on the right hand •, and, at fix miles diftance from our laft night’s lodging, we went by a fair houfe of the earl of Deernftein on the left hand ; and hereabouts we had a profpedt of Ketwin , a rich abbey, ftrongly fituated upon a high hill on the right hand, feme Skippon. diftance from the Danube , which abbey the Swedes attempted to take, and were repul fed at. About nine miles from Mar¬ pach, we pafs’d under a wooden bridge of about 20 arches, at a little town called Stein, on the left hand : it is wall’d, but feated under the hills, yet the Swedes were notably beaten here, after they had entred it, tho’ afterv/ards they took it, and plunder’d, (Ac. Clofe by, on the fame fide, we landed at Crembs, a pretty Crembs. walled town, trenched towards the river, but fituated upon the fide of a hill. The ftreets are built with handfome ftone hou- fes, many of which are painted on the out-fide. Hereabouts we obferved fome vineyards. The Jefuits have an indifferent church Jefuin here, on the higheft part of the town, and c,r,irch ' a handfome pair of ftairs, covered and painted within. On the top is written, Gradus hi Societatis Jefu fumptibus nobilis Doming Annce Maria Frey Ungarin , ad Stokh vidua natce Vitin.poftti funt anno feculari Societatis id eft falutis reparatce. MDCXL. From this place we boated it fome di¬ ftance, and then the Danube grew much wider (the hills having narrowed it before) having a plain country on both fides, where are many woods, inhabited now by the country people, who fled into them for fear of the Lurks. Six miles from Crembs we pafs’d by Deuln, a fmall wali’d town on the right hand, and, on the fame fide, afterwards came by a caftle upon a rock, and a little village called Greiffen- ftein •, and farther, on the fame hand, had a profpecl of Greijftein, a caftle upon a hill, and Cornaber, a walled town in a plain, both fome diftance from the Danube. This laft place was taken by the Swedes, who defended it notably againft the Imperia- lifts. Hereabouts the river was very rough, the wind being ftrong againft the ftream, which runs from Linlz very fwift. A mile and a half before we reach’d Vienna, we pafs’d by Claijfternaiberg, a little wall’d town on the right hand, where good wdne is made, and where there is a fair rich abbey. About an hour be¬ fore we came to Vienna, we faw a wooden bridge crofs one arm of the Danube, and went down one of the fmalleft ftreams, which brought us by vineyards. On the right hand a fair hofpital, and feveral houfes of the fuburbs of Vienna where we arrived this day about four in the af¬ ternoon, having travelled this day by wa¬ ter 19 German miles. We 47 6 A Journey thro 5 Tart of the {Germ. Skippon. We obferved the Danube to be of a W 'V' N ** greenilli colour, and to have many mills, the wheels whereof are placed between boats, and turned by the ltream of the river. The Danube hath many iflands in it. We took notice of fome Hungarian kine, which are large, and have great heads. Their skins are fent from Vienna to Nurenberg. Our boat was fold here for about a dollar, which, at Ragensburg , cod about 8 florins -, mod boatmen returning back a-foot, iSc. unlefs they have a conveni- ency to encourage them up dream again. That fide of Vienna we entred, hath a new and very drong thick wall of done a building (the greated part being finiffi- ed) without the old wall. On the gate is written, Leopoldus R 1 A. A. mdclxii. Tcrtlfica- The inward and old wall was built with ttons% the ranfome money of Richard the Fird king of England , who was treacheroufly imprifoned by the archduke of Auftria in his return out of Palajline. The outward and new wall is very drong and high, the badions are exceedingly drong, and between every bulwark, there is a drong horn-work. The trench is very deep and broad, but, at this time, mod of it was dry, which they can fill with water when they pleafe. At one or two places they w’ere repairing the walls. We walked round the out-fide of this city, and obfer¬ ved they had newly pull’d down many houfes of the fuburbs, and made all clear a good didance from the line or bread- work,which goesround (except towards the river) and is fome didance from the trench. This line is kept up, or pallifado’d with great wooden flakes fharpned at the top. The ground, from the out-fide of the line, is made with a declivity, which is to give the defendants the more advantage againd r; ,„ „ ovtr . the enemy. This city is fo well fortified, nor f name that if there be a fufficient number of re- and title is, ffilute foldiers, there is little danger the Turk will be mader of it on a fudden. “ ^ Some fay, there mud be 50000 men to 2;arifon it. Jews. One bulwark, or rather a horn-work, towards the Danube , is built at the Jews charge, who have a place allotted them to live in, called the Jews town. Upon the wall, and on feveral bulwarks are infcriptions, fome of which I tran- fcribed, viz. Ferdinandus Rom. Germ. Hung. Boe. zc. Rex inf a. Hfp. Archi-D.Aufl. Dux Burg. zc. SacriRom. Imp. Ord. ftatuum fumptib. Conjlr. Juf. Anno Chrijli m d l i i . Leopoldus Ro?n. Imp. i£c. Propugnaculum hoc Muro ot>duci curavit. MDCLIX. Ferdinandus III. iic. muro propugnaculum hoc obduci curavit. mdclvi. / Ferd III. Rom. Imp. Anno 1647. On the bulwark which the foreign mer¬ chants built, at the expence of 10000 gilders? Leopold. Rom. Imp. Archidux Auflrice , Mer- catorumExtraneoru?)iSu?nptibus m dclxi i. The biffiop’s palace is a fair building, Bifhofs and hath this inscription on it. palace. Memorise immortals ill. & R. D. Anton. D G. Epif. Viennen. S. R. I. Principis Ferd. II. & Ferd. III. Augujlijf. ab ar- canis confiliis , Epif. hujus Palatii Funda- toris , Philippus Fridericus Succejfor ut gra¬ ta ejus nominis fama in feram pojlerita- tem perennaret , monumentum hoc pofuit. Anno Dom. mdcxli. EpaPlusii. % This city is very populous, the dreets (except thofe at London ) the mod frequen¬ ted we yet faw. The buildings are fairly built of done. Some of the dreets are of a handfome breadth, but mod are narrow. The fuburbs are large, notwithdand- ing many houfes have been pulled down near the fortifications. In one market place there are two foun¬ tains ; and there, on the wall of a houfe, is the pi where C arolus Jofephus , the emperor’s 6 F brother. 478 A Journey thr Skippon. brother, lodges -, and, on another fide, is the palatine of Hungary's lodging. Over the gate that leads into the firft court are the vowels a. e. i. 0. u. And in another place is infcrib’d, Ferdinandus Rom. Germa. Hunga. Boem. zc. Rex infa. Hifp. Archi. Aujl. Dux Burgun¬ dies. Anno mdlii. About the court are many fair houfes of noblemen, &c. The emperor hath a council for Ger¬ many, and another for Hungary , and when they fit, drift watch is kept about the court, and chains crofs the gate, and in the ftreet nigh it. September 19. O. S. being the 29th Sep¬ tember according to the Roman account, and M : cha- Michaelmas day, we went to St. Michael's o schureh . church, a mean building, where the abbot of the Benediftine abbey performed high mafs, the emperor being prefent in a feat or gallery on the left fide of the altar. When fervice was done, we obferved many cour¬ tiers to come before the emperor, who had on his right hand cardinal Carafa the pope’s nuncio, and on the left the Vene¬ tian ambaffador. The guard of halber- deers went on each fide, being clad in black liveries with yellow lace. On their halberds the imperial arms were engraven. The emperor’s pages are many of them earls, &c. and are habited in the fame livery. He had no fword and maces car¬ ried before him. He is of an indifferent ftature, black hair’d, of a dark com¬ plexion, and thin vifag’d, and very like the pifture on his money, excepting in his under lip, which is not altogether fo large as is there reprefented. In this day’s church mufick we remar¬ ked a trumpeter, who founded in a con¬ cert very skilfully. Among the courtiers we obferved fome Hungarians , who were richly habited, either in blue or red velvet, according to the mode of their country. Hunaari- this c ' t 7 we ^ aw a great number of ans. ° Hungarians , whofe habit is much like the Ruffians, wearing fuch fur caps and boots as they do. In their caps they have two or three long feathers, and in their hand a pole-ax. Their fwords are long feimetars with broad blades. At their right fide hangs a bag, and about their middle they wind a fafh, which they call a Neu. Their breeches are made ftrait and clofe. Mod of them are habited all in blue, without band, cravat or cuffs. Some of the better fort wear black, and fome o 5 Vcirt of the [Germ. have coats like the Ruffians ‘(I obferved in London.) Many of their heads are flraven, except one lock, which they let grow on the top of their heads. We faw fome of their gentlemen on horfeback, with leo¬ pards ilcins wrapt about them, and many footmen attending. The Hungarian wo¬ men wear fur coats, fomewhat like thofe the Holland women wear. The linen of their heads hangs a good way down be¬ hind. Some of the men were all in red. Some of the Hungarian prieds were in blue cloaks. The chief noblemen in Hungary are, the earl of Bait Ryan , the earl of Eajlerhafel , the earl of Sirene , the earl of Nidojl , the earl of Artedee, the earl of Kafy. Nigh one of the Jefuits colleges is a Hunga- college, where many Hungarian dudents rian colUg* live. Over the door is infcrib’d. Collegium Pazmananum eredtum An. Dorn. MDCXXIII. The Jefuits have two colleges in this Jefuits td- city. One is (lately and large. Over their ^ eu door is written, Ccefarea domus profeffa Societatis Jefu fun- data a Ferdinando II. Rom. Imp. m d cxxv. Their church was formerly fome parifh church j but they have added a fair new front, being a portico adorn’d with flatues. The walls of the porch are plaiflered, and neatly wrought with little pebbles. Two altars here, and on each fide a door to a chapel. Over thefe doors are in¬ fcrib’d, 1. Gloriofffimce Dei Parenti in ccelo affum- ptes inclyta fodalitas Dominorum Viennez in Damo profeffa S. I. hanc inferiorem fru- dturam F. F. mdcxxv. 2. Divo Leopoldo Patri Patrice, Marchioni Auf. rice, Leopoldus Gulielmus Archi-Dux facellum hoc flruxit, & porticum quarn vides exornavit. mdclxii. The roof of this porch hath fair pi- < 5 tures painted on it. The church within is handfome, having very fair altars. The high altar and two others are richly gilded. On the front of the church is infcrib’d, Anna Eleonora Augufta Deo Regin cep, An- gelorum pojuit. A. mdclxii. Before this church, in a large fquare 4 piazza, (lands a high marble pillar of Co- 1 rinthian work, being wreathed about with branches, and having on the top a (lacue of Germ.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 479 of the virgin Mary ; at each corner of the pedeftal is the ftatue of an angel with a Shield, each lhield is written upon, viz. 1. Pro / Ferdinandus Philippi Hifpdniarum et Joannes Reg. Nepos. Maximiliani CeeJ. Aug. ac Ferdinandi Senioris regis Catholici Frater germanus Caroli V. Imp. Princeps ac Infans Hifpaniarum , Archidux Auftries , zc. hoc Armamentarium ob patrie tuici- onem in hoflium terrorem e fundamenlis extruebat Anno a nato Jefu mdxxiii. The great church is indifferently hand- The great fome. church. A bifhop here. Over a cloifter door is written, Monafterium Ord. S- Pauli. I. EreT.es> And on the wall is the imperial arms, and two coats of arms befides, with a. e. i. 0. u. and this inferib’d, Pio fundatori Friderico Imperatari. On a nobleman’s houfe is written o^er the gate. Libera et fide commijfa^ Dmius Families Baronum de Meger. . After we had baited at this place, we travelled farther in the plain, and pafs’d through a pine wood, and at two miles diftance entred a valley, and two miles further, where the valley v/as narrow, bc- 6 G tween 482 A Journey thro 5 Part of the [Germ. SnrroN. tween high hills covered with pines and vineyards, this night lay in a village called Gluknitz. At moll of the villages we pafs’d through from Vienna , we obferv’d in the road bars of wood, with part of the branches of the tree remaining and fharpned. The houfes in thefe villages are covered with fhingles of wood, and are built of flone ; but the poorer houfes are built of wood. Sept. 26. At two German miles diflance from Gluknitz we came to Schaydwyen , a village with a gate, and little wall at each end, feated between the mountains, and watered with a fmall river, which is covered with wood as it runs through the middle of it ; we faw here the head of a white boar fix’d to a door. At this vil¬ lage flood ready yok’d io oxen, which drew our coach up a long afcent over the mountains that part Auftria from Stiria ; here we law the Larch tree (Larix ) grow plentifully •, Cyclaminus. The Plat anus, violins and other mufical inflruments are made of. See my collection of plants. Afterwards a mile further we came to a little wall’d place call’d Mertzufchlag , where we baited: about this town there are many mills driven by the river Muercz , where fcithes and fickles, (Ac. are made ; from hence we travelled through Langen- wanga, a village, having a caflle near it on a hill ; and then pafs’d by the afore - faid river to Kriegla , another village, where we crofs’d the river, and pafs’d by a caflle upon a hill on the right hand ; we pafs’d fome part of this day through a pleafant valley, between woody moun¬ tains, and at night lodged three miles from our baiting place, in Kvnberg , a large village, where we paid 15 and 16 Kreiitzers for a meafure of wine, which was as dear again as we paid at our dinner this day. Many of the women in thefe parts, as in Auftria and Bavaria , wear very broad brim’d hats, with fmall crowns made of flraw, which the better fort have black’d. Sept. 27. We travelled in the fame valley as the day before, and went through Kapfuberg , a great village, and pafs’d by many other villages and gentlemens houfes, and caflles on the hills •, after¬ wards, three miles from Kimberg , we Prwck an- came to Pruck ander Muer , fituated at the de: Muer. meeting of two rivers ; it is walled about, (part of the wall running up a hill^ and hath one indifferently handfome flreet ; the houfes are flat roof’d. It hath a caflle on a hill ; the market-place is large, having a fountain in it, and a well, with the ornament of well-wrought iron over it ; a wooden horfe flood here (as we obferved in many towns of Auftria , &c.) to punifh fome malefactors on. At this place we paid one gilder and fix kreiitzers for a meafure, or quart of wine. Without the walls of this town we pafs’d over a wooden bridge crofs the Mur , now a fhallow river, and then tra¬ velled in the vale two miles to Lewben , Lewben. a very neat walled town, with a narrow trench about it ; the flreets are fairly built with flat roof’d houfes, it hath fountains, and a fair market place. Hand¬ fome iron cages in the market places of Pruck and Lewben. The Jefuits have a handfome college The je- here. ^ uits tol- We met with waggons of fait here. lege ' Much iron made hereabouts. A little after we left Pruck , we had the profpeCt of a nobleman’s houfe on a hill, and a fair large cloifler not far from the town ; and then rode over a hill, and in the evening lodged at S. Michael , a vil¬ lage a mile from Lewben. In thefe parts we obferved many men and women with great bronchocele’s, or fwellings under their chins, called by fome Bavarian Pokes ; fome of which were fingle, others double and treble ; £>uis tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibus ? Juvenal. Sat. 13. Guttur intumefcit , aquarum qua potantur plerunq , vitio , Plin. hift. nat. 1 . ir. c* 37 - We obferved alfo many of the ordinary fort to be ideots, and fcarce found of mind. Through this valley we had flony way all along the road ; but the ground feemed to be good meadow and paflure •, there are no vineyards, tho’ the fides of the hills feem convenient. Some of the mountains we pafs’d by were very high, but covered with larch, fir-trees, (Ac. The inclofures of grounds are fenced with flakes, and pales or arms of trees fet obliquely, and faflned to the flakes by twills of withy, (Ac. Thefe fences may be removed, if need be, with no great difficulty. We obferved in our inns the kitchen chimnies to be made much different from thofe in England , the hearths being rais’d a good Germ'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy ,and France. 483 a good height, (about a yard) from the ground, and placed ufually in the middle of the kitchen ; fo that the cooks may go round about the fire ; the tunnel of the chimney hangs direftly over the hearth. Sept. 28. We rode by the river Mura's, fide, and pafs’d through a well cultivated valley, and at two miles diftance went through Kobencz, and hereabouts had a profpebf of Steckaw abbey, on a hill on the right hand. Three miles ftom S. Mi¬ chael we came to our baiting place at Kni- tlefeld , a little will’d town, having an indifferent market place. We travelled on ftill in the fame valley, and pafs’d by fome noblemens caflles and houfes. In the evening we came over a hill, and tour miles after dinner lodged in S. George , by the river Mur, which runs into the Dravus, and that empties itfelf into the Danube. Iron mills in man) places on the Mur. Sept. 29. We travelled ftill in the fame valley, and after four German miles came to Newmarck , a little walled place, having a cattle on a hill ; after we had baited here we followed the track of another little river which runs into the Dravus nigh Volckmarck , palling through a narrow valley between high hills, and at a mile and a half from JSewmarck we went by a fmall cattle feated upon a high and fteep hill ; and half a mile further we came through Freifac , a town that is walled, and well trenched on three fides with a water ditch •, on the other fide upon the hill are built three cattles, one of which is indifferent large. This place is de¬ cay’d, and the houfes are old. Some cloitters here. A Kreitzheer prefides, un¬ der a bilhop. A mile from Freifac we arriv’d at our lodging this night in Flirt , in Carinthia. Sept. 30. We rode a rocky way, pafs’d through valleys, and at three miles dif¬ tance came to S. Veit, a little wall’d town, having a fountain in the market place ; after dinner we travelled three German miles in the vales, &c. and at night lodged in Vilkircken, which was for¬ merly a large fair village or market town, there being a fquare piazza, with a foun¬ tain in the middle. About three years ago a fire burnt all down. At S. Veit’s we were informed the em¬ peror coins money ; and that at Gratz there is alfo a mint. The rooms in our inns had arched roofs of ftone, and iron rings in them, through which poles are put to dry linnen on. Oclob. 1. We rode bad way among the mountains, and pafs’d along by the fide of a lake called Oofukerfee , at the further end whereof we went by a fair and ftrong Skippon. cattle of the earl of Dietreckftein’s, feated on a high hill ; afterwards we defeended into a pleafant valley, and then pafs’d over the river Dravus, a pretty navigable river, which runs by the walls of Villach (where we baitedJ three German miles from our laft night’s lodging ; it is a well-builc town, having a broad ftreet and a foun¬ tain in the midft of it. From hence we travelled a good diftance, and came over a long wooden bridge crols the Gaile, a fair river that runs into the Dravus ; then we rode among high mountains, and pafs’d very rocky way, and at night lodged in Orlejlein, a village, with a little cattle built on a fmall hill. We obferved the mountains in fome places ploughed a great height, and took notice of their drying of buck-wheat by fattening it to poles fet upright in the ground. At Vilkircken , where we lay Sept. 30, we obferved the making of a kind of fritters, fhaped into flower-de-lys, &c. firft they put an iron fo fhaped into boil¬ ing feam, and then dip it into a difh of cold batter, and prefently took it out, which gives that figure or any other they have moulds for. Oilob. 2. We travelled among the high mountains, and rode bad way ; at two miles diftance we baited in Clayn Tarvis , a village ; afterwards we came to the be¬ ginning of the river Timent , which runs into the Adriatic fea, and a mile further pafs’d through Malvareat, a large village, from whence we had a German mile to our lodging this night in Pontieba Veneta ,’ Pontieba fo called by the Italians, and Ponteville by Vcn£ta- the Germans it belongs to the emperor, and here we were obliged to procure a pafs, or ticket of health ; the beginning A bilL °f whereof was printed in Latin, and the reft Italian , and the form of it was this. Andreas da Mula locum tenens. Gen. Pa¬ trice Forijulii. Si partono da quejlo luego gli infra feritti, Dio lodalo, fenza jof petto di mal Contagiofo, alii quali done capiteranno fe li potrd dar libera prattica , in quorum fidem, &c. Dalla Pontieba Veneta le 13 OElob. 1663. II Signior Gio. Vray contre altri Sigri etdue Scrvitori et due Carocieri con lor calero et fue robbe per Italia II Peloci Ad. This day ( 08 . 3.) we pafs’d by our lady’s chapel on the top of a high moun¬ tain, and prefently after we left Clavn Tarvis we obferved a herd of goats fol¬ lowing a goat-herd, who had ftrange fhoes which turned up with long toes, and 4 b 4 d journey thro 5 Tart of the [ [Germ. and had great iron nails in the foies of his lhoes to climb the mountains withal. The women in thefe parts wear their hair braided, and linnen about their heads. Odiob. 3. We pafs’d over the river Timent, where a bridge parts Carinthia from Friuli ; half this bridge is wood, and belongs to the emperor, and the other half is ftone in the Venetian territory : On the German fide clofe by the bridge is written, Ferdinandus II. D.G. Eleftus Roman. Im- perator. Germ. Hung . Boe. Rex. timber fometimes floating down, and fometimes where the rocks flopp’d it, men endeavouring with long hooks to put the timber into the force or the firearm At two German miles diftance from Claujen , we baited at Rafiuta , a village, and then went to Venfonga , a pretty fmall town walled and trenched about ; here¬ abouts we came among vineyards, and wine was fold for about fix Venetian foldi the boccale. About two Italian miles from Venfonga we arrived at the beginning of the plains of Friuli , and lodged this night in Hof- pitelletto. About a German mile off we came to Claufen , a little village with a fort, which is built under the mountains, and hath two draw-bridges on that fide we entred, where before we were permitted to pafs we deliver’d the above-mention’d ticket of health. On the gate of this fort were feveral infcriptions, one of which I tran- fcribed, viz. Arx Anno Domini mcccxlii conftruTta , nivium injuria mdcv. dev aft at a, Veneta Senatus Confulto mdcvi reftaurata , ac magis munita Fori Julii Pro;fide Franc. Ebricio. From hence we travelled along by the river ‘Timent , where we obferved fir- Eefore I conclude my Account of Ger¬ many , it may not be amifs to take notice, that Wendelin, in his politicks l. 2. c. 36. fays, there are in Germany 100 bifhops and archbifhops ; 156 abbots, abbefles, praspofiti, and commendatores; 76 dukes, 20 marquefles; 4 landgraves ; 281 earls, among whom 29 are princes *, 19 bur- gravii ; 313 barons; about 75 imperial cities, formerly there were 225. In Bohemia the Rufticks are feverely pu- nifh’d by the emperor for their rebellion, which makes the country not well inha¬ bited ; they are not permitted to have trenchers, napkins, &c. perhaps not rich enough to buy them. ITALY. Italy. 1 Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 485 Skippon. I T A L r. li O CTOBER 4. We traveled in a level country, and had a fair pro- fpect, on the left hand, of Limonia, a walled town on the rifing of a hill at the foot of the mountains; and after io Italian miles riding, we baited at a village called St. Tomafo. We obferved the vulgar fort of women in thefe parts, to wear a linen drefs about their heads, like thole we took notice of in the Alps: fome of them had white linen plaids about their heads and fhoul- ders, and have their breafts very much bared. Several of them wore their hair braided with ribband, and wound upon a roll behind. After dinner we pafs’d thro’ St. Daniel , where at this time was a fair much fre¬ quented by the country people. This place is walled about, and fituated upon a hill. After we left this town, we forded the river Titnent feveral times, which divides itfelf, and makes a great beach of ftor.es, fand, gravel, 6 3 c. that is overflow’d fome- times by the floods that come from the mountains •, then we afeended a little cliff or bank, and entred the walls of Spillenberg , another indifferent town, have- ing portici before their houfes, built of ftone. A caftle here. Afterwards we pafs’d over two large beaches, and rode in barren plains. About 10 Italian miles hence we came to our lodging in Sanlfo Avogio. This day we pafs’d by two or three fmall caftles feated on hills, but of no remark, and had a ridge of mountains on the right hand of us. The country about the villages was well tilled, Sorghum, Turky wheat, and other grain being fown between rowsof trees let at regular diftan- ces, and vines climbing about the trees. The wine hereabouts was fcarce fit to drink. The country people in Friuli , &c. hire lands of the owners for half the pro¬ fit the grounds, &c. yield •, which, in fome parts of England, is alfo prafttifed, where the landlord and tenant are at halves, which fignifies the fame with this cuftom. The republick of Venice lately took off a tax on their houfes here. OLlober 5. We rode along the plain ; and, at 10 Italian miles diftance, came to Sadie , a walled town, where the river Sadie. Livenza divides itfelf, and cncompafles Vol. VI. the walls. Over the fuburbs gate we entred, under St. Mark’s, lion is written, DileElam urban Ludovicus Cornelius hoc or¬ nament 0 decoravit mdlxii. And over the wall-gate is this follow¬ ing infcription to the memory of Mary the wife of Maximilian I. Imp. viz. Maria Aufiria Imp. Fil. Aug. D. Caroli V. Imp. pojl hominum memoriam gloriofijmi F. Maximiliani I. Ro. . . InvidiJ. olim Conjux Rudolphi II. Imp. Aug. Boemice ac Pannonice Regis e Germania ad Phi- lippum Fratrem Regem Max. in Hifpa- niam proficifcens , cum Maximiliano Filio Archiduce Auftrice fe . . . et Margareta Filia gratiofijf. hue accedens fan do Conta- reni Prcetore prxfcdoque Senatus Veneti juju, honorificentijime accept a fuit ux Kal. Ocfob. et diem proximum comm’ oral a, x Kal. decejit. On the town-houfe are 22 feveral fhort inferiptions in memory of the governors 5 among the reft, under a ftone figure, II. I. S. Alo. Delph. Prcet. Prcefq ^ pnlmi imaginem pojleris vifendam. S. Sac. erigi cur avit mdciococ. In the market-place is a fmall pillar, whereon is fix’d a pole with a ball on it, and this written underneath, Pilam banc et vexillum publica in meliorem ufum converfa pecunia M. Antonius Ve- nerius Prcet. Prcefq-, primus erigendum C. MDXXXIX. In the chief church are two fair marbles, for holy water, at the entrance. Portici before the houfes. We obferved many inferiptions, in ftreets of the places we pafs’d thro’ on bridges and in high-ways, in memory of the repairers, &c. When we had baited at Sacile, we tra- vell’d about 10 miles further to our lodg¬ ing in Conegliano, a walled town feated on Conegli- the ridge of a hill. Here is one indifte- ano - rent ftreet, with cloilters or Portici be¬ fore the houfes. The fuburbs are large. The river Mottigan runs by this place. Where the trench was are fair gardens. 6 H Over A Journey thro' Part of the [Italy. Skuton. Over the gate of one is written, Clementi VIII. Pont. Opt. Maximo. Jacobus Abbas Sinius prot. Apoft. eidem in pontifi- catu a fecretis aty, ab Ultimo Cubiculo eter- tie tanti Principis Patroni optimi de fe me- renti memories dicavit. Anno a, partu Vir- ginis mdcvi. Over one of the town gates is written, Ecclefta Hieronymo Rom. Marcello hac pa- tria utroq ; et Hieronymo et Marcello re¬ ft aur at a Anno mdxxiii. All the way w r e travelled hitherto in Italy , we had no other bread but what was made of Sorghum , which was white, but hard and dry. October 6. We travell’d about five Ita¬ lian miles, and ferry’d over the river Anaxus or Piave ; and 10 miles further we Trevifo. came to Trevifo (Tarviftum ) a large walled city, built indifferently with old houfes. The market-place is handfome, where there is the town-houfe, with walks un¬ derneath it like Lincolns-inn chapel; and inlcriptions to the governors. At the gate we came in at is written, Paulus Nanus Geo. F. Aug. Princ. Nep. Prae. Praefrp, F. 1518. Porta S. Thomae. This part of the town is walled and trenched about; but the other fide to¬ wards Venice is very fairly fortify’d with a ftrong wall, and thick earthwork with¬ in it, and a broad trench. The river Site runs thro’ feveral ftreets. A level country round this city. In all the wall'd towns we came thro’, is a governor fent every 18 months by the Venetians. Leti , in his dialogues, fays, There rifes a river within the walls, that fills the city-ditches. From Trevifo we rode a ftrait broad way for about feven Italian miles, have- ing a flat country, well tilled, and planted with rows of trees on each fide the road ; and at 10 miles diftance from Trevifo , Meftre. we went thro’ the fuburbs of Meftre , a walled place, where we hired a gondola Here is the with four oars, which carry’d us in a cut z n^o^ 1 " channel to the fea. Our boat paid at one place by the way two foldi a man toll; and at another place half a foldi a man : then we pafs’d by marfhy iflands; and at five miles diftance from Meftre , landed at our inn door in Venice ; having tra¬ vell’d 13 days together from Vienna, and in this journey rode about 312 Englijh miles. VENICE. Between Trevifo and Meftre are many pleafant Villa or country-houfes, not large, but very pleafant in their avenues, walks, and gardens, having ufually a little chapel at one corner of the garden. The following obfervations I made at three feveral times I was at Venice. The firft time I ftay’d from the 6th of October 1663. till the 3d of December 1663. The fecond time was from the 6th of January 1 661 till the iftof Feb. i66-|. The third time was from the 10th of Feb. till the 13th of March 1 66j-. We went up St. Mark's tower, which St - Mark’* is fquare and high, built in the piazza St. Mark, and ftands at fome diftance from the church and other buildings We firft came up 36 floping afeents (there being an afeent without lteps on each fide of the tower) and above them went up 14 fteps, a ladder of 4 fteps, and then two ladders more of 27 ftaves, into a balcony with brafs rails, where we took a pleafant view of the city and the circumjacent iflands. The city runs out towards the arfcnal a good way in length, but fhews a great place in the bulk or body of it. The ftreets are fo narrow, that moft of them are not large enough for above two or three to walk abreaft, without crowding *, and the houfes are fo thick builc, that, from this fteeple, we could icaicely dif- cern one ftreet diftindtly. On the four fides of the top of the fteeple, is carved in ftone, JL + Xjf Rex venit in pace , et Dcus homo fac¬ tus eft. We were told, that Henry III. of France rode up this fteeple on horfeback, to a portico fome what below the balco¬ nies. Before the fteeple below are fair marble rails ; and on that fide, the fteeple is adorned with ftatues, (Ac. Schottus , in his itinerary, fays. The foundation of this tower coft as much as the luper- ftrufture. On the top of it is a wooden figure of St. Mark , gilt, blefling of the people. Nigh it, and juft before Sr. Mark's church, are three high poles ereefted. The piazza of St. Mark is magnificent, piazza of being curioufly built with fair houfes, *.Mark. which are uniform, with handfome Por- tici or cloifters. This piazza may be accounted tw r o piazzas, the longeft being againft the weft end of St. Mark's church, and the other that looks towards S.. Geor¬ gia Maggiore. In this piazza near the water-fide, are two large round marble pillars; and near St. Mark's church are two fquare marble pillar, b -tween which noblemen are beheaded ; and nigh them, at the corner of a building, are f>ur porphyry ftatues of four pirates in ar¬ mour, Italy.} Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. mour, two and two embracing each other. Thefe pirates had enriched them- ' delves' very much; but want of provifi- ,ons obliged two of them to come afhore here at Venice ; who, alfoon as they were landed, plotted to poifon the other two ; who, being lefc on fhipboard, confpired againft the two afhore ; fo that two poi- foned the drink, and two the meat, and all four died, leaving their eftates in the Venetians poffieffion, who placed thefe itatues in memory of them. Not far from thence, at the corner of St. Mark’s church, Hands a thick and fhort pillar, where any one that is to be banifhed, mult Hand in the view of all people. Nigh this pillar I once obferved an offi¬ cer, with a red cap, and a cecchino fa¬ ttened to it, repeat aloud what was firft read to him. We heard a nobleman of Vicenza proclaimed banditto, Jan. 8. The piazza of St. Mark is neatly pav’d with bricks fet edge-ways, and fo are molt of the ftreets. On that fide of the piazza the palace is of, the noble Venetians walk in the mornings, &c. no man elfe being fuf- fer’d to walk among them: it is called il Broglio. Every Saturday there is a market kept in this piazza. Every Sunday morning there is a fer- mon preached by a Dominican friar ; and during the fermon, a fellow gathers peoples charity in a bag at the end of a ttick. At the end of the fermon the auditory fung a Salve Regina upon their knees. The pulpit is placed nigh the cloifter, under the palace; and on it hung the picture of a duke praying to the virgin Mary ; and underneath is written, Hanc FF adm. Rs. Bacc’us F. Vinceniius Livae Fripaldi ordinis praedi’um ad re¬ ft aurandum devotionem Rofarii , dum fte- cunda vice fuit reelePlus Praedicator Du- calis et Publicalis pdatearum S. Marci , et Realti Venetiarum in quibus introduxit primo dipt am devotionem publice reciiandi ah utroque fexu ftdelium , die 17. Junii 1663. Oppofite to the duke’s palace is a fair building, where we faw in a pretty room, feveral antient ftatues and heads; tinder one is written, Hie locus Sacer eft. A fair old head of Vitcllius ; and this following infeription under a head, viz. dIs manibvs A ORGIVIA PAL HERMETIS POLYBIVS LIB PATRON MERENTI ET IN SE PIISIMO Skippon. On another ftone is inferib’d, C. IVLIO CETR® QVIETO TITIA QVIETA MATER FILIO PIIh'SIMO. Over a door here is written. Sign a marmorea perantiqua olim d Domini. Card. Grimano Anto. princ. E. et poftea a Jo. Patriar. Aquiliam ejufdem P. Nep. Pafcale Ciconia Duce magna ex parte reipub. legata , partim vero marino Grima¬ no Prin. a Federico Contareno D. M’ci Proc. ad dbfolutum ornamentum fuppleta idem Federi. ex SC. hoc in loco reponenda C. Anno Domini mdxlvi. Within this antiquarium is a large Card. Bef- room where cardinal Bejjarion’s library * is kept. Over the door is written, BeJJarionis Card, ex leg. Senatus , juftu Pro¬ curator Divi Marci Cura Philippi Frono. Andreae Leono. Joannis d Lege. Antonii Capelle ViPtor. Grimano. Joan, d Lege Eq. Bibliotheca inftruPta et crept a M. Antonio Frevifano Principe ah urbe condita • MCXXXIII. At the upper end is a fmall pidture of cardinal Bejfarion , and this written. Ex Aide SS. Apoftolis Romae dicaia Bejftario Epifcopus Fhufculanus , JanPlae Ro- manae Eccleftae Cardinalis Patriarcha Conftantinopolitanus, ftbi vivens pofuit , Anno Salutis mcccclxvi. T«t Betrcafi&v Z oov oevvaa. 4 9 ° Skippon. Trivate •Armory. A Journey thro ’ Part of the \ Italy. fadors i in another we faw the duke’s fcarlet cap and his coif lying on a table. In another room a rich filk bed belong¬ ing to the dutchels. In a large publick room are many pic¬ tures, among which the famous battle at In a little room between the two galleries, hang up three tables, two of which Lepanto. At the upper end over the duke’s feat is infcrib’d, Antonio Friolo Diici inftitut. opusdecori ct ufui , Francifcus Contarenus Dux profequeni ad perennemgratiarum memoriam cioioxxm. are pedigrees of the Contaren family ; the other I tranferib’d, viz. Contaren:e Families procuratoria dignitate infigniti. Antonius Anno 860 Aloyfius Anno 870 Marcus 1010 Marcus 1138 Marinus 1286 Jacobus poftea Dux n6y Nicolaus 1299 Nicolaus 1326 Andreas poftea D. 1444 Stephanus 1347 Antonius 1414 Federicus poftea D. 1461 Andreas i 43 6 Stephanus 1441 Joannes poftea D. 1489 Natalinus 1446 Nicolaus 1462 Francifcus poftea D. 1615 Leonardus 1483 Bertuccius 14 35 Julius 1 53 7 Alexander 153S Thomas J 545 Francifcus 1556 Thomas 1 55 6 Federicus 157 ° Hieronymus J 57 2 Jo. Paulus 1594 Zacharias Eq. 1600 Eernardus 1602 Simon Eq. 1620 Angelus Eq; 1642 Andreas 1645 Julius 1651 Moft of the rooms are pav’d with Two fair halberts with guns ii 1 the ftaves marble, and many of the entrances and doors adorn’d with marble pillars, &c. W hen a new duke is eledted, he gives to every one of the fenators a medal or munus. In the palace is a private armory, where we obferved in five rooms theie particulars, viz a ftandard taken from the Turks, with this inlcription under it, Quod cernis fignum Turcica clajfis laharum eft ad Mgeum inter pugnandum x Julii mdcli Imperalore Venet.e claffts Aloyfio Mocenico II. a duce Navis Aquilce aurecz Joanne Kafar' vi ereptum , ferenijfimce Reipublicafdei obfervantiaq ; monumentum ' do no datum. The Vexillum of Freder. Barberojfa’s fon, and another taken from the Turks at Cliffa in Dalmatia •, Attila and his horfe’s hel¬ mets •, Scanderbeg's fword. Over a door is the brafs figure of Ant. Bragadeno , and this infcription, M. Ant. Bragadeno Salamince Cyprio Prae- feclus in diuturna obftdione fubftinenda fin- gulari fortitudine clarus fummaq■, pietate at a-, conftantia pro Chrifti fide et pro pa¬ triae vivus gloriofijfime cute exutus 17 Auc. l 57 l - Over Henry IV’s. arms is written, Henrici IP'. Franciae et Navarrae Regis anna in tot tantifq\ et periculis et viltoriis hoftili fanguine madefacla immortalis ejus gloriae trophaeum ac veri ct fincQri amoris erga Rempub, monumentum. of them •, the armour and fword of the d uke of Rohan•, the arms and fword of that doge of Venice who took Fred. Barbero/Je’s fon prifoner ; two handfome marble fta- tues of Francifus Sforza and his wife ; a curious and richly embroider’d and pic¬ tur’d cloth of gold, prefented by the Perfian to the doge of this Hate, as is fignify’d by this infcription, Regie fidei amoris honoris etiam remotiffimo- rum Principuih erga Rempuh. nobilijfimurft teftimonium Perfiarum Regis Marino Gri. mano inclito Venetiarum Principi munus. A curious fmall piece of cannon not call, but bored ; another gun having one bar¬ rel and five breeches, which may be turned round to the barrel one after ano¬ ther as they are difeharged a ftatue of Gattamelata of Padua, in armour, fitting upon a fair brafs horfe ; two brafs heads with thefe inferiptions under them, Titiani Afpetti R. Op. 1. Sebaftianus Venerio Venetae clajfis impera- rator Qui apud Echinadas Turcarum clajfe disjecta obpraeclaravi viEloriam miro totius Reip. Confienju merito poftea Dux elect us Sept. Odlob. 15 71. 2. Auguftinus Barbadeno totius clajfis Legatus qui apud Echinadas maxima in victoria et confilio et fanguine part a gloriofijfime occu- buit , Patriae beneficium , pofteris fummae prudentiae inviUaeq ; fortitudinis praecla- rum relinquens e xemfilum. Sept into Oltobris l 57 l - The. Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. The effigies of Hear. Dandalo, and of Franc. Carrara of Padua , who rebelled and turned tyrant; a frnall arrow in a little bow, with which he was wont to kill privately any he had a fpite at, as they pals’d by him ; an iron collar fet full of fharp nails on the infide, which he put about mens necks; Organo del Di- avolo, or little boxes which he fent to two counts of Brefcia ; they were fo contriv’d, that when they open’d them, feveral pi- Hols were difcharg’d, which killed one of the earls ; the llatue of Valanofo, a captain ; the pifture of St. Juftina fet in alooking- glafs frame, upon this occafion ; the Hate of Venice were fending embafiadors with prefents (among which a looking-glafs) to the great Turk, to procure peace *, buc by the way they heard of a great victory gain’d on St. Juftina *s day ; Jo the embaf- fadors return’d immediately to Venice \ and, inflead of the looking-glafs, they put into the frame a picture of that faint, and adorned it with precious Hones. A great cryHal lanthorn, with a cryHal cup in the middle of it, made by one Advocato GraJJ'o , a citizen of this place, who carry’d it to Conftantinople and other parts, but could not fell it to any ad¬ vantage ; fo he brought it back again* .and prefented it to this commonwealth, by whom it was placed HrH at the high altar in St. Marks, and afterwards re¬ moved to this armory ; the workman be¬ ing rewarded with 400 Venetian ducats per annum for four generations. We faw la ferratura della 1ftat nr a della ftua moglie *, a gun with 60 barrels ; Grimani 's Scritto - rio, being a large cabinet with many idols of the ancients; king James 's pi£ture ; a brafs thing like a font, within which are 500 matches, that fby Hriking of a cock ‘which fires two pans that crols one ano¬ ther) are all lighted at one time ; many arms, pifiols, always ready charged ; hel¬ mets, breaH-plates, &c. AgainH this armory are council rooms ; Denoncie and in the walls are feveral mouths or secrete, flits with thefe infcriptions, 1. Denoncie Secrete di Baratti et permute di ballotti. 2. Denoncie Secrete di Bravi et Vagabondi et di Banditi a Relegati tranfgrejjori. 3. Denoncie Secrete coniro I'irreverenti alle cbiefe. In the upper cloiHer of the palace are thefe, 1. Denontie Secrete per li inquifttori all' Ar- fenale. 2. Denontie Secrete contro miniftri delle pornpe Skippon. con I'inpunita Secretezd e benefttii giufto alle legge. 3. Denontie Secrete in materia d'ogni forte di pornpe contro ciafduna perfona con bene - fttii 42 per cento giufto alle leggi. 4. Denontie Secrete di uftire et ufurpatione di beni publici-. 5. Denontie Secrete contro miniftri del ma- giftrato della militia di mar per eftorftoni fraudi 0 pregiuditii fnferiti cofi all' publico come a particulari, 6 . Denontie Secrete de ufurpatione Violenze et ogni altra cofa fpettante almag'to di prov'ri foprd li beri communali. 7. Denontie Secrete de Scomejfe. 8. Denontie contra Becheri et contra Bandi* eri et altri. 9. Denonlie du Reduti et giochi proibili dalle legge. 10. Denontie Secrete contro quelli che ejferci- tano officii concernanti maneggio de fcritture et conti publici che non fono defcritti nel Col¬ legia de Raggionati et altro afpettante al Mag'to de gli Eccl'mi SS'ri Revifori et Re~ colatori alia Scrittura. Over two chambers are thefe infcrip¬ tions, t. Leonardo Laitridano Principi Cum is annonae provifum iri ftatuijfet quod non mo do Urbi Venetae, fed Vicinis Civi- tatibus quae ob bellor. lumultus fumma ejus caritate labor ah ant fubftdio fuit quin- decies cent, mil.fextar. frumenti. Micha- ele Salomono Marco Contareno. Alouis Barbaro rei frumentariae Praeffi. curan- tib. funt intra menfes xvi. id quod antea nunauam ex variis regionibus Venetias adveSia. mdxi. et xii. 2. Urban annonae caritate opprcjfam V. virkm rei frumentariae anni fuperioris fingu- lari ftudio fublevatam, hi qui hodie funt non minor e cur a induftriaq j et urban et caeteras Imperii civitates fuftentarunt , clafti omnium quae unquam aedificatae ftnt maximae commeatum praebuerunt , cunbtifq ; opem implorantib. vilium fup- peditarunt , et omnia fumma cum laude atq\ hominum benevolentia gejferunt , quod ad aliorum inflammandos animos ad bene de Re public a, merendum hoc eft teftatum monimento. mdlxx. x. K. Mail, 492 A Journey SKlPPONi We heard one day (17 October) a law- y er ver y earneftly difcourfing in a pulpit in a room nigh the Sala di grand Configlio , many counfellors being prefent. When he would have them take notice of any thing remarkable, he repeated the words very loud. In another large room there was one making a fpeech. Over the gate that leads into the pa¬ lace, is a flatue of D. Fufcari kneeling before St. Mark' s lion ; and the ftatues of Charity , Prudence , Temperance, and Fortitude. In the cloiHer or portico of the palace towards the piazza, is infcrib’d on the wall, mdclvij. xv. Februaro Girolamo Lore dan, Giovanni Contareni furono Banditi per rabandono della Fortezza , del Tenedo laf- ciata liberamente in mano di Turchi con le arme e munitions publiche con noiabilepre- giuditio della chrijlianitd e della patria. In the portico of St. Mark's, church is a great Hone in the pavement, whereon the emperor Frederick kneeled when he fubmitted himfclf to the pope. No in- fcription now (as is mention’d by Scbottus viz. Super Afpidcm et Bafilifcum conculcabis) but the figure of a lozenge in lieu of it. st. Mirk’; St. Mark's, church hath over the great church. entrance, a mofi curious pidture of St. Mark lifting up his hand to heaven. It is made of mofaick work, and underneath is written, Ubi diligentcr infpexeris artemq j ac labo- rcm Francifci et Valerii Zuccati Veneto- rurn Fratrum agnoveris turn demum ju- dicato mdxlv. The pavement of this church is curi- ouily inlaid ; in one place are figured two cocks killing a fox, and in another four lions. Schott us, in his itinerary, makes mention. That Joach. Abbas Sanclorius caufed them to be made, and intended a prophecy by them. Behind the high altar is a letter altar, having two fpiral alabafier pillars fo tranf- parent, that the light of a candle may be difcerned thro’ them. Thefe, they re¬ port, did belong to Solomon's temple. Here are alio two jafper pillars hollowed and filled with wax. In a little chapel on the fouth fide, is a large marble Hone on the wall, whereon, they fay, St. John Baptifts head was cut off, there being fix’d to it a brafs bafon, with a head in it of Hone. In another chapel is a marble with the figure of the virgin Mary and our Saviour, wherein are three holes, one at the virgin’s thro J Part oj the [j breafi, the other two under our Saviour’s feet, with this infcription under all, Aqua quee prius ex petra miraculose fluxit Oratione Prophetcs Mojis pro duff a eft, nunc autem htsc Micbaelis ftudio labitur quem ferva Cbrifte et conjugem Irenem. On the ground Hands a large lion well carved in Parian marble, and another lion on the fide of the altar. In this chapel is a fair monument, with the Hatue of a bilhop on it, having this following infcription, Joanni Baptiftce Zeno Pauli fecundi ex fo - rore Nepoti SS. Romanes Ecclefus Car- dinali meritijjimo Senatus Venetus cum propter eximiam ejus fapientiam turn fen- gularem pietatem ac munificentiam in patriam quam atnplijftmo legato moriens profecutus eft. MPPC. Ait at is An. lxiii. obiit. mdi .die viii Maii , bora xii. The roof of the church hath five Cupoti, and is curioufiy painted with mofaick work; the walls and pillars are of marble. The front or weH end of the church is adorned with carved work ; and over the entrance Hand four brafs horfes in the full proportion, excellently well made, which were brought from ConJlantinople. Underneath are many porphyry pillars. In this church hangs (from the middle of the roof) a fiaggon, whereon was writ¬ ten, mdxxi. Verona fidelis. Several little fquare pieces of glafs, be¬ ing inlaid and painted with different co¬ lours, make the pictures in the walls and roofs of this church. On the fouth fide of St. Mark's is a neat little chapel, where are four hand- fome Hatues, each having an infcription, Ecce Rex tuns veniet tibi juftus et falvator. 1. Parte ah utraque dein conce jja eft Nomini Jeftt Crefceret ut cult us gloria bouerque loci. Sit nomen Tlomint benediffv.m i?iftcc. et uftq; inftsc. 2 . Dein Gemellorum patribus dedit ille colendum Queis Marci ex ultra public a cur a foret. Ego autem Veniad te in nomine Domini Exercitmtn. 5. Coepta fovete pii colite mirabile nomen 6 puo nil in terris celpus effe poteft. Omnis qui invocaverit nomen Domini Jalvus erit. 4. llanc Procurator Storladus condidit JEdem Divo et Aloyfto juftit adejfe facram. I obferved one day at the end of this church which looks towards the two pil¬ lars, upon the rail of a balcony, two lighted candles Handing before the vir¬ gin Mary's pi&ure, which were placed here Italy.'] Low Countries. Germany, Italy, and France. 493 here by fome friends of a perfon dange- roufiy fick, who foolifhly and luperftiti- oufly believed, that, if either of the lights went out within 24 hours, the fick perion would have died in that time ; but if he be to recover, they will not go out, tho’ it blows and rains never fo much. This day was rainy, yet the candles kept lighted. The fchuola of St. Roch is a large build¬ ing, with a magnificent front o( marble pillars. In the old. church clofe by, which is fair and large within, are (lately mo¬ numents of dukes, &c. St. RocVr St. Roch' s church hath a fair frontift church. piece. Jrocejfion. We (aw this procehion following : firft went a large figure of St. Roch , and two (landards with pieces of plate hanging on them ; agreatlanthorn ; another lanthorn between (bur (landards with plate ; about 40 great filver (landards, with lighted tapers in them, carry’d by men in white ha¬ bits ; 70 lefier filver (landards with lighted tapers •, then muficians clad in white ; a huge wax candle and a rich crucifix •, fix llandards of filver; a relique, and a ca¬ nopy followed to cover it if the weather prov’d rainy ; four more filver (landards with candles, and two priefts before St. Roch ; a canopy ; four filver (landards; eight priefts; mufick, a very rich cruci¬ fix of gold ; many Venetian gentlemen, with lighted wax candles in their hands, who were habited with white caps, &c. having taflels hanging down each fide of their breafts; a crofs wrought in red. Between every 10 of the afore-mention’d 40 (landards, came a great deal of plate faften’d to a frame of a pyramidal figure. There were many men to keep all in or¬ der, with torches in their hands, drefs’d in white. Some of them carry’d wooden bowls, wherein they catch’d the droppings of the wax-candles. This proceftion went thro’ St. Mark's church (clofe by the high altar, which is very rich with jewels, iftc. and is feldom opened, only now, Odober%. and fome other times of the year) and afterwards round the piazza. Lege’* pa- We went to a nobleman’s palace called lace . Lege , where the queen of Sweden lodged. In the court within are heads of the Roman Cafars of (lone, made lately. jefuiis. Near this palace, before their banifh- ment, the Jefuits had their college, where they attempted to build too large a church, which now remains unfinifh’d, which, they fay, diipleafed the (late. They are now reftored again. One day we obferved a Jefuit going with many little boys in white habits, two and two together, finging as they went: and another time we met a Jefuit with many blue-coat boys going two and two. Vol. VI. Nov. 28. We (aw the Jefuits church Skippon. adorned with rich hangings for the feall t - /r Y' , SJ of St. Xaverius. They have a church and college nigh the fundamenta Nuova ( a part of the city) where is this infcription. II fere mo Principe fa faper et per delibera¬ tion de gli til'mi et ecc mi Si'ri Effecutorp contro la Biaftema che non fa alcuna perfona diche grado ft at oh Condition effer R voglia che ardifca giocar a balla , bah loti , pandalo , carte b altro gioco niuno nel campo della chiefa di Cruciferi bora dei Jefuiti et luochi circon-vicini ne ivi tir miltuar ftreppitar b Commetter altrc ope- ratione che poffino render fcandalo et cio in pena di prigione , bando,galera, corda, frufta , berlma et altre ad arbitrio di SS. Ecc'mi hauuto riguardoalla qualita del clelitto et conditioue della perfona et in oltre de lire ducento de picoli del beni del Delinquente da effer date la met a all' Ac - cufator qual far a tenuto , fecretto , et 1 ‘ ul¬ tra metd alii captori. S. Andrea Moroftni. S. Nicolo Capello. S. Giacomo Donado. Adi doi Septembre mdclviiii publicato il fopradetto proclama da me Giulio Miloni Commandador in Campo de Crofe chieri. This prohibition is fet up by mod of the cloifters and churches in this city. On a gate that leads to the new foun¬ dation, is written, mcccccii . Fraternitatis Artis Varatoriorum. We went to Grimani' s palace, which Grimaniv does now belong to the patriarch of Aqui- V lace - leia. The front of it towards the grand canal, is very fair, and adorned with cu¬ rious pillars. Sir H. Wotton fays, The cornices of this front are too large; and obferves the Atrium Grcecum, or antiporch of eight columns of the compound order, the (hafts whereof are made of brick. Over the doors below are figures with in- feriptions, viz. Bacchus dulce Venenum. Spera ut Mortalis. Diligentia auget opus. Confule ante fa slum. On the out-fide of the gate towards the water, is written, Domus Pads. Above (lairs is a large room with pic¬ tures of cardinals, and two old and very great maps, one of the whole world, the other of Italy , both made by Joannes Bellinus. In the chambers are fair mo- faick tables inlaid with precious ftones: 6 K in m A Journey thro' Part of the [Italy. Sktppon. in the middle of one is a jafper worth 10,000 Italian ducats-, brafs figures on the heads of andirons •, two fmall brafs antient figures fix’d on pedeftals *, on one of which is written, Tu Deus.et tanti fateor tu muneris Auftor. On the other is. Ex mequivides promptos mihi reddito honores. On a cover before a chimney, is writ¬ ten in the Spanifh language, this, No hay fuego cpue mat arda Qu £ la lengua pie me mol habla. We faw here a little cabinet, wherein was one cock to fire fix little piftols. TroctJJion. Every Saturday during the war with the Turks, the doge of Venice and fenators make a procefiion thro’ the palace, pi¬ azza, and St. Mark's church. The man¬ ner of it was obferved, viz. firft came fix ftandards with lighted tapers, and a filver crofs in the middle of them •, then many furplice-men finging (fome with lights in their hands) immediately before the gofpel of St. Mark , written by himfelf, and carry’d in a rich cabinet by four in furplices. Over it was a canopy fup- ported by four more in furplices. As this relick pafs’dby, the people kneeled. Then followed many with lighted tapers ; after them, canons, and the Primicerius of St. Mark, who had his fquare cap on his head. After him came feveral noblemen in fcarlet and purple gowns, and three or four in black gowns (which all the no¬ bility of Venice are obliged to wear in the city after they are 16 years of age) then the duke himfelf in his fcarlet robes, with a coif upon his head, and his fcarlet cap (having a gold embroidery about the low¬ er part of it) in his hand. This duke’s name is Dominicus Contareno, and he is about 63 years old. After him came four in fcarlet and two in purple •, and in the rear of all, a great many Venetian gentle¬ men, and a rout of old women. A>reml We ^ aw ar ^ ena ^> where over a fair gate is infcrib’d, When we entred the gate, we left our fwords there 5 and then a guide carry’d us round the arfenal. Firft we faw two chambers well furnifhed with arms j among which the arms that Tiepelo, a Venetian nobleman, had defigned to ufe againft the ftate. He was accidentally flain by a woman, who let apeftle fall upon his head from a window near St. Mark's gate ; many arms taken from the Turks *, the arms of St. Theodoras ; the helmet of Bartolomeo Coglioni's horfe’s head ; the arms' of Frid. BarbaroJJa's Ion, who was taken prifoner by the Venetians. Over a door into another room is written. Omnia hcec uftii inepta expedita Hanc in formam Cerne Jo. Baptifla Fufcareno Zacbaria Sagredo D Marci Procuratoribus Juflo Antonio Beleguo Prcefefto Marco Ciconia Paulo Vendrameno Jo. Baptifla Grimano P. Refidentibus cididcxxvi 1 . Here we faw a faddle and a helmet for a camel, taken from the Turks ■, an exadt model of Sebin. . . with the hills and country about it •, which place the Vene¬ tians ftoutly defended againft the Turks ; Scanderbeg's arms. We were afterwards brought thro’ an open place, where many anchors lay, among which two very great ones *, then we came into a great fhop, where fmiths were working at feveral furnaces, preparing of irons for the build¬ ing of gallies; a room where the ftores are laid. We took notice of an iron bullet, with four irons like fhort fwords, made after this manner •, t Viftorice navalis monumentum MDLXXI. Ab Vrb.cond. mxxxviii. Chrifii Inc am. mcccclx. Duce inclyto Pafcali Maripetro. Leo de Molino , Marco Contareno al Capelo id ornare cenfere. A is the bullet, e e e e are the four fwords, which are fhut clofe together within the cannon •, but when it is dif- charged, they open feveral ways. We faw two rooms where were only nails for the gallies, every gaily having 40 long and weighty nails: 72000 irons kept here. In another place we faw a chair or pulpit, wherein the duke is carry’d on mens fhoulders into St. Mark's church (after his election) where he is Ihewed to the Italy.} Low-Countries, Germany, Italy., and France, 495 the people, who have money thrown among them by the duke; but if they dif- like him, he is prefently put out of this feat. We faw the making of the gallies ribs at a fire in a great room. Oars made here lo large, that they have feven men to row one oar. Oars taken from the Turks ; then we came to the place where guns are founded, and where they are weighed in a great pair of lcales. They are lifted into the fcale by a crane moved by a large wheel. On the crane are written thefe figures, 284, which fig- nify fo many pounds weight a French wo¬ man weigh’d in thefe fcales : a place fup- ported by brick pillars, where they make cables 170 fathoms long. In one room was a great deal of faltpetre ; and in another they make pullies, which are laid up in the next. We faw cwo guns taken from the Turks , and a cannon taken from the emperor of Germany at Kleifach ; it was broke into four pieces, becaufe they could not bring it whole thro’ the mountains. We faw feveral rooms well furnifh’d with armour hanging on the walls, and placed on frames. In one large room Henry III. of France was entertain’d at dinner ; and in that fpace of time a galley was built in this arfenal. A curious wrought long gun was call at the fame dinner-time : guns taken from the Turks at Tenedo : a large gun with three, and another with feven bores; a fmall gun cover’d with leather made in Germany : arms in two rooms for 3000 horfe : one room full of foot-arms: four lanthorns taken at the battle of Lspanto : arms for 10,000 horfe in another room ; and in another, arms for 12 gallies; and in a third room, arms for 10,000 foot: arms for 50 gallies more : fhops where fmall guns and mufkets are made : a model of Clijfa , with the circumjacent country in Dalmatia taken from the Turks Anno 1648. a very great mortar-piece: many wheels for carriages of guns: a great gun found in Candia, all of gold and filver : many carriages in a readinefs: lances and co¬ lours taken from the Turks: a room cal¬ led by l'ome the garden of oranges, which is full of bullets. We faw many mails. The gallies are preferved from the wea¬ ther and rain under long roofs fupported by done pillars: feveral gallies taken from the Turks : the general’s galley ; his name is Morifini: the old Bucentoro. We A galley, went into one galley, and obferved the captain’s cabbin is raifed higher than the deck, and is ufed as the laft refuge or cafkle when the enemy hath boarded the galley. The deck hangs over on each fide the body of the vefiel; and the outfide where the foldiers fight, hath a gallery Skippon. round ; the rowers have their feats under- neath. We faw the new Bucentoro, which Bucentom is a galley richly gilt and carved within and without: they told us, the gilding coll 34000 crowns. At the middle of the entrance Hands a fair gilt llatue of Scandcrbeg , under whom is written, M, Ant. Dunanimis. Frat. Baf. et Au . Cur. Opus. Over the deck is a richly gilt and carv’d cover fupported by gilt figures. Here are four rows of feats, where the fenators fit. At the upper end is the duke’s feat; and on the left hand of him fits the pope’s nun¬ cio, and on the right, the emperor’s em- baflador ; the rell of the embafladors fit in their order. On fome folemn feftivals this Bucentoro is ufed, but more efpecially on afcenfion day, when the duke elpoufes the Adriatick fea, by throwing a gold ring into it every year. We faw much timber feafoning in water, and the cellar of wine, which furnifhes enough every day for 2300 workmen, who have two thirds water to one third wine, mix’d for their drink in great coppers : every workman may drink when he pleafes. We were informed, that the workmens pay every week in the arfenal, amounts to 5000 Venetian ducats. The arfenal is walled about indifferently llrong ; it hath ,12 towers, and watches kept every night; channels of water round the wall. At a little chapel dole by, is a narrow flit in the wall, where was written. Denontie Secrete per V inqaifitori all’ Arfenal. And not far from hence, under fuch a hole in a wall, is written almoll the fame, viz. Denontie Secrete per li Ecc'mi Sig’ri inquif - tori fopra l’arfenal. Returning to our lodging, towards the mouth of the grand canal, is a large build¬ ing where bifket, (Ac. is baked for the na¬ vy, having thefe two infcriptions on it, viz. 1. Ilecc Azdificia jam Vetuftate ad ruinam prona Alex. Gnto. Pet. Navagcrio fupra proviforibus. Pet. Juftiniano. Pet. Ca- pello et And • Vendranino Kei frumenta- rix Prxfeffis ad panern Nauticam repo- nendum inftaurata funt ut ex Urbe Clafji ad earn aleredam Cibana in ornne tempus abunde jubmimjlrarentur. mdlxvi. z. Gu- 4 9 6 Skippon. 2. Cadent id pree nimia Vetuflate tedia ma- Yitmaz clajfis Pant affervando dicata rei frumentarix Prxfeffii in hanc meliorem for mam refit u e r un t Anno mdxcvi. On Thurfday , October 15. we took a gondola at the fifhmarket near the piazza of S r . Mark , and made this following circuit thro’ the grand canal, and the canale della Gittdecba. Firft we pafs’d by a tower called la Donna di mar , built on a point of an ifland on the left hand •, and a little diftance further on the fame fide. La Salute, came by la Salute , a round church fairly built, having an angel on the top, and the front curioufly adorned with marble pillars-, then palling by many gentlemens palaces on each fide, about the middle of the grand canal, we went under Ponte Rialto , and fome diftance further, by a palace on the left hand, where the ‘Turkijh embalfadors us’d to lodge ; afterwards came by the palace of Grimani on the right hand, and S'ta Lucia ; and at the end of this channel we turned to the left, and went under a wooden bridge at S'ta Cbiara , then by St. Andrea , and thro’ a fhallow water by St. Marta , where we entred the canale di Giudecba , and pafs’d Under coats of arms is infcrib’d, [Italy by the Giefuati , a fair building ; the Of. pedal dell’ incurabili on the right hand, we were in view of Redemptor ’s church, and le Citelle , two round buildings and re¬ turning by the aforefaid la Donna di mar , landed at the piazza of St. Mark. We obferved one day a funeral palling Funeral. the ftreets. Firft came a crofs, then ban¬ ners, furplice-men finging before the corps, which is laid upon a bier drefs’d up in a monk’s habit (with which it was buried) having the hands and face naked, and a little crucifix lying by the body. Juft before it went a mourner in a friar’s weed, with his face covered (only two holes open for his eyes) and a lighted taper in his hand ; and after it followed a great number of men, two and two together, with lighted tapers in their hands; which tapers are given by the deceafed’s friends. At Venice every mafsfaid for the dead, cofts about 8 d. One gave enough lately for 12000 mafifes. Nigh the fifli-market, b) St. Mark’s piazza, is a large houfe, over the door whereof is written, Eren' Nani Hier’ Supe : Aloii Ren’ Sa Prov* 10 proc. et S. pro S 1 Prov'. A Journey ihrtf Part oj the L. C. G. M. B. M. Eernplo Deiparx Salutari aurea lampade , Vota, Vrbem dira peflilentia xvi Pefilentia coepit Menfium tratiu vex at am An. Sal. m nr. xxl Pat rum Piet as liberal it xii Kal. Sext. mdcxxxi Ut primum exoptatam xgris afferre falutem Incipiunt Patres horrida peftis abit. Provifores J'alutis. Defiit An. S. MDLXXVU xii Kal. Sext. Nigh the door is written, Adi vi r Marco mdcvii L’ill’mi SS’ri P’ri alia fanta fano pullicate intender che non entbi alcuno fa chi ft voglia dentre delle Colonelle fampada qui avanti ill’mo Magg’to in tampo mafime che alia riva capitajfero barche 0 copani per recever pratica ne mem ardifea fermarf 0 ligar barche d’alcuna forte dentro delle penelli Sotto tutte le pene con - tenute nell ’ terminacioni di SS. ill’mi in tal materia difponente. L. flveftre Cont’ni P’r . L. Zuanne phicr’ni P’r. L. Piero Brag’n. P’r. Zuanne Moretti Nod’ro . The fifh-markets afford great variety of fifh, viz. 1. Orada -, 2. Rubellio -, o ) . Bodicolo, b Broncini; 4. Meforo 5. Sturio; 6. Joro; 7. Rhombo •, 8. Pa- ganee 0 Paganello j 9. Zuatee ; 10. Spa- ri; 11. Volpine ; 12. Paflere -, 13. Zua- tec, alius Pumftulis Ciner. 14. Grancepole ; 15. Barbone-, 16. Lucerne ; 17. Boba 18. Bilhe19. Menola-, 20. Uranolco- pus; 21, 22, 23. Echinorum mar. fpecies ires-, 24. Corvo; 25. Scrofanello; 26. Mezorae fimilis , pennis duabus inter oculos •, 27. Cancer hirf. 28. Cancer parvus viri- dis, b Gote di mar ; 29. Panotti; 30. Li¬ ce ti ; 31. Sure* 32. Squillae fpecies ; 33. Razza; 34. Barracole; 35. Squiaina; 36. Canis Macul. 37. Gamari; 38. An¬ guilla barbata i 39. Perea Marina ; 40. Canislsevis; 41. Canisaculeatus; 42. Can¬ cer viridis parvus, anfeem.? 43. Cane, alius viridis parvus, an zS.fcem.? 44. An¬ guilla; 45. Pignolette; 46. Orada Vec- chia ; 47. Sardone ; 48. Renga ; 49. Den- tale ; 50. Tinea marina; 51. Donzella; 52. Paganello radiis dorfi longioribus ; 53. Pifcis anguilkeformis; 54. Sorghe marina ; Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 497 marina; 55. Cavallo marino; 56. Lo- cufta; 57. Sepia; 58. Polypus; 59. Pin¬ na marina ; 60. Tinea marina, macula ni¬ gra ad caudam ; 61. Merluzzo ; 62. Pec- ten major ex una parte planus ; 63. Peden minor ex utraque parte convexus ; 64. Pur¬ pura ; 65. Purpur x. fitnilis, fpinis longiori- bus ; 66. Concha Lomaca dipt a ; 67. Mof- coli; 68. Mytilus hirtus ; 69. Capo ron¬ do ; 70. Capo rochio ; 71. Solenes; 72. PefcePetro; 73. Carbonaccie di Ac- qua ; 74. Carbonaccie di Sabbia ; 75. Pi- oche, pebiinis fpecies ; 76. Beverone concha; Jpecies ; 77. Corvo di fortiera ; 78. Con¬ cha parva latere longiore appendice juxta cal' cent ; 79. Joto lette ; 80. Beveraccie ; 81. Verdone ; 82. Sturio rofiro breviore ; 83. Lomaca major rufefeens ; 84. Lomaca min. nigricans ; 85. Carigoe longo. 86. Garigoe rotondo ; 87. Sorgho 6 Mormo- ro ; 88. Thynnus; 89. Pefce lpada. The fifh called Cepole are driven into nets, by a great noife we obferved the fifhermen to make in their boats. Birds. In the markets are fold many birds, viz. 1. Arcuata five Numenius Avis ; 2. Gal¬ lo di Montagna; 3. Sardina vel Tardina, Alaudse fpecies; 4. Anate di Baftardi ; 5. Celega, an pajfer Arundin. nojlras ? 6. Tringa maxima ; 7. Fringilla mont. foem. 8. Tottin, like a Stint; 9. Perdix rufla ; 10. Pluvialis; 11. Pluvialis cine- rea maj. ; 12. Cocal; 13. Fofano; 14. Garia, five Ardea alba foem.; 15. Falco minor; 16. Aftore ; 17. Avofetto; 18. Ardea alba minor ; 19. Vetula, an God- wit? 20. Serula ; 21. Martinaze ; 22. Mergus major ; 23. Avis Fringillae lut. fimilis pedore ruffo ; 24. Grus; 25. La- gopus ; 26. Gallina cornuta criftata ; 27. Capo roflo ; 28. Mergus roftro acu- to capite albo. Trtctjfm. t Thurfday y October 12. being all-faints day, Jiilo novo , we law this procefiion, which began in the duke’s palace. Firft came 24 mint-men in long blue cloaks, having red caps, on each of which was fattened a cecchino of gold; then came four in fcarlet; next two or three noble¬ men in purple gowns : an antient gentle¬ man (whofe fon is a cardinal) came immediately before the duke, who was attired with a cloth of filver robe, flow¬ ered with gold, having great gold but¬ tons before, and his cap embroidered like his robes; about his waift a girdle: on his right hand went the pope’s nuncio, and the bifhop of Beziers , the French king’s embafiador, on the left. The duke and embafiadors were covered : gentlemen held up the duke’s train; and after him came 20 fenators, two and two together, in Vol. VI. their red damafk robes, with fhoulder- Skiffon. pieces of damafk over their left fhoulders. When they came into St. Mark' s church, the mint-matters flood on each fide, and at the entrance a canon flood ready with holy water in a filver thing, which he fprinkled in the duke’s, nuncio’s, and embaffador’s faces, and afterwards in the fenators. W hen the duke entred the choir, he kneeled a while before St. Mark's al¬ tar, which was opened this day, mufick playing all the time. Then the duke re¬ turned, and placed himfelfin that part of the choir, where our matters of colleges, and deans of cathedrals fit: after a little fpace of time four canons came to him, and Laid fomewhat; then made their congees, and returned to their feats on the fide of the altar. The nuncio and the French embafiador fate next to the duke, and the fenators were placed in two ranks on each fide. When the high mafs began, the two organs (one on each fide of the altar) play’d, and the vocal mufick made a conceit. One of the canons who miniilred to the prieft who performed mafs, read a chapter in the Revelations , with a finging tone, in a pulpit; then he brought the book to the duke, who kifs’d in After this, another chapter was read in the pulpit, lighted tapers and a crofs being carry’d before the book. The duke, nuncio, &V. were lmoaked with an incenfe pot; then a re¬ lick was brought to them, which they kifs’d. There were many other foolifh ceremonies which were ufed during the time of mafs. When all was done, they returned to the palace in the fame order they came. This day on the three high poles before St. Mark's church, were hung up three flags. St. Peter's church is a fair building, St. Peter’j where are feveral infcriptions mentioned c burch. by Sanfovinus , who deferibes the city of Venice. It is laid, the chair St. Peter us’d when he was bifhop of Antioch , is kept here ; alfo three hairs of our Saviour’s beard, the chalice he us’d with his dif- ciples, and many other relicks. The pidure of the three eaftern kings is a good pidure. Some of the altars are not yet finifh’d. A large cupola in this church, with a balcony round the infide of it. The patriarch of Venice's palace is ad- Patriarch joyning. The prefent patriarch’s name is of Venice’; Francifco Morofini. In a piazza here is a fteeple not unlike St. Rfark's tower. This palace, church, LtV. are in the ifland of Cajlello , which isjoyn’d to another by a large wooden bridge. Behind 498 A Journey Skippon. Behind St. Peter* s church is a houfe, whereon is infcrib’d. Cafe VI in execution delle galo del Mag. M. Aim. Prioli di ordini della mag. M. Hel. lor fu Conforte del mag. M. Bern. Prioli fatte fopra quejlo terreno dalla fchola di mifer. mdlxix. Salvator. Not far from Ponte Rialto is a fair courts; church pav’d with fine marble: the high altar is rich. Three cardinals of the family of Ccrnara, are buried here, and Catharina Cornara queen of Cyprus. Fran- ■ >f us Valerius , Laurentius Priolo, and Hy- cTonymus Priolo , dukes of Venice , have ftately monuments here. A fair tomb of Andreas Delphinus Procurator D. Marci. The roof of the church hath cupola’s like thofe at St. Mark's. One cupola is very large, with a balcony round the infide of it. Nigh this church is a building with a fair front, whereon is written, D. O. M. Divo quoque martyri Theodoro , Vota Jacobi Galli magnif.centia reliclo cere pario marmore ornavit Anno D. mdcl. On October 30. many pidtures were hung both without and within a large room, which hath an altar in the fide of it. Oppofite to it is a fair double afcent, (hung alfo with fair pictures) which brought us into a large room or chapel. The pictures were fent hither this day by mercers and other tradefmen belonging to this fraternity. S.Georgio S. Georgia Maggiore is a church belonging Maggiore. to a monaltery of Benedidtines, which is built in an ifland over againft (and fome diltance from) the piazza of St. Mark ; a neat area before the church, which is a (lately building ; the front whereof is Benedi- adorned with ftatues, pillars, and two clines . heads, viz. of Tribunus Meinus and Seba- Jlianus Nanus , both dukes of Venice: the firft of them retired, and lived a monk in this cloifter, as appears by the infcription under him, printed in the afore-menti¬ oned Sanfovinus , who takes notice of many particulars here; fome of which we faw. The church within is very fair, having thick pillars, and in the middle a large cupola, round the infide whereof is a balcony : the pavement is of fine marble. At the high altar is St. Stephen’s body kept; and behind the altar is the choir, where the feats are ; n the manner of an amphitheatre. Pictures here drawn by Finhloretus ; the monuments of Zani , and Leonardus Donato , dukes of Venice. In the north wing of the church is an al¬ tar, where are fair marble pillars ; in one thro* Part of the [Italy. of which fome peoples fancies are ftrong enough to fee our Saviour upon the crofs, naturally reprefented ; and at the fame altar they alfo fancy a death’s head in the marble table; but the ornaments of it hindred our fight of it. The convent hath two fair cloifter’d courts; one of which hath double pillars, whofe diftance and proportion we ob- ferved, viz. the diameter of the pedeftal is 18 inches and an half, the diftance be¬ tween pillar and pillar five foot and almoft feven inches Ionic. The arete of the courts are planted with cyprefs trees. We went up a very fair afcent, which is adorned with the ftatues of Venice , &c. and came into the Dormitoria , where the cells are on each fide of the long walks, one of which is very broad and long, and makes a fine perfpedtive ; nigh this there is a portico, whence we had a view of the city and the water about it. Here we obferved the Ionic pillars, their diame¬ ter 13 inches and an half, and the diftance fix foot feven inches. The Refefforium is a large place, at the upper end whereof is a great pidture delcribing the marriage feaft in Cana, drawn by Paolo Veronefe. In the wall of this room is a marble pul¬ pit, where a chapter is always read at meals. Over the entrance within is writ¬ ten, Silentium [A Pax ; and on each fide of the door is a fair ciftern of marble, having pillars of the Corinthian order; their pedeftals are 19 inches in the diameter, their diftance fix foot four inches. Pillars at the aforefaid afcent, of the Corinthian order ; the pedeftals 20 inches in diame¬ ter, and the diftance five foot feven inches. The garden is very pleafant, having fair arbour’d walks, &c. From a terrace walk we had a profpedt, and obferved a great fpace of mud at an ebb tide ; which mud in the winter time fmells oftenfively, but in the fummer gives no ill fcent. Many fuch muddy places about the city, and we were told that the fea retires from it. SS. Giovanni IS Paolo is a large and ss. Gio- fair church within ; the pillars are high, vanni anti and the pavement is finely marbled. Pao '°* Round two of the pillars nigh the en¬ trance into the choir, are many pidlures, and other devout exprefiions of fuch per- fons as fondly believe they have been mi- raculoufly cured at the altars nigh thefe pillars. Fair monuments here of dukes, noblemen, ISc. among which the tombs of Edward earl of Windfor , &c. the lord Henry Stuart , who died 1637. when the lord Weft on was embafiador in Venice ; three ftatues on horfeback, with infcrip- tions mentioned in Sanfovinus: the horles are Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 4 99 are brafs. This church belongs to the Dominicans. We obferved feveral per- fons to fit here with their hats on ; one was a clergyman : and within the church doors we law poor old women fpinning and begging. Before this church is the figure of Bar¬ ic lomens Coleottus on a brafs horfe upon a high marble pedeftal. Mendicant We heard good vocal mufick in a nuns. mendicant nun’s chapel, which will be very handfome when it is finilhed. The entrance into it is adorned with fair marble pillars. We obferved all the even- fong, the men fate with their hats on. Hefpital. Nigh this nunnery is a (lately hofpital. Before the entrance into the fore-men¬ tioned chapel, is a large portico, where¬ in are thefe two inscriptions, viz. i. Bartbolomceus Bontempelius a Calice piis largitionibus infignis magnus Xenodochii hu- jus injlitutor erector et Altor, cujus eximice grains gratiofo cemulo Fratre per aulies bine faxea ex leone Adamantinaq-, pau- perum memoria Superis sterncs micabunt. Gubern. piagratitud. recolitur. A. mdcxli. -I. Dominico B lay if de Carattis Berg'tee, Ara, templo donis Xenodochio additis magnanima ubiq-, pietate, fpeftato Mendicantium Vir- gmum Gubernatori Mcecenati Patri optime merito, perenne in lapide, perennius in ani- mis fimulachrum Prcefides Unanimes PP. Anno mdclvii. die xx Decembris. St . Gcmi- St. Geminiano's church is oppofite to the weft end of St. Mark, at the further end of the piazza, where, on November io. I ob¬ ferved very much plate hanging on the pillars, and about the roof, but molt nigh the high altar, which made a very refplen- dent fhew, by reafon of the many lights placed here. Trocejpon. Nov. ii. Being a day devoted to the Madonna della Salute, there were many maflesfaid at that church. Wepafs’d over a fair wooden bridge made upon boats crofs the grand canal, and, among a crowd of people, went into the firft afeend- ing a fair ftone afeent, and viewed this (lately building, which is of a round form, and is high and large; the roof was not quite finilhed: Four curious white marble pillars nigh the altar. The duke, pope’s nuncio, and French embaflador, with fome of the fenators, came by water from the palace, in a gilt barge covered with red velvet, and drawn by a lefter boat with rowers *, then followed two other barges with fenators, trumpeters, and officers. On the barges were flags, banners, (Ac. When they landed, there went firft 30 mint-men in long blue cloaks, the fore- moft of which carry’d flags and inftru- Skippon. ments, then fome in red, and gentlemen before the duke, who was habited in his robes and ermins. Juft before him was carry’d a rich cuffiion and a gilt ftool. On his right hand went the pope’s nuncio, and on the left the French embaflador, both with their hats on. One carry’d an umbrella behind the duke, and three gentlemen held up his train. After them came 40 fenators in their damafk robes, who had fome of them purple pieces of velvet, which they threw over their left fhoulders. The firft of the fenators car¬ ried a great rich fword. After the duke had laid his private devotions, he feated himfelf in his throne fome diftance from the high altar on the left hand, and on each fide of him fate the nuncio, French embaflador, and fome of the fenators. Oppofite to the duke fate the reft of the fenators. In the time of mafs (which was but (hort) a relick was brought to the duke, (Ac. which they kifs’d ; and when mafs was done, they returned to the bar¬ ges in the fame manner they came. A little before the duke landed at the Sa- lute, many filver ftandards with lighted candles, went over the bridge, and fetched many canons, and a relick, which they placed upon the high altar: and when mafs was finifhed, they carry’d it back again with the fame folemnity. Among thofe that went in this company, there was one habited in purple, which all gave refpetl to, whom we guefs’d to be the patriarch of Venice. In the Salute we ob¬ ferved a great number of beggars, fome felling little candles and books ; and we took notice of begging women in nuns habits. After this we came to St. Mark's piazza, where three flags were hung up on the poles. The duke, (Ac. came thro’ the palace into St. Mark's church, where he made his private devotions, and then he went to his feat. After that, high mafs be¬ gan, and there pafs’d this proceffion fol- a procep lowing, by the altar. Firft came many fion. lighted candles in their filver ftandards, O ... ’ carry’d by men in white habits, having St. Mark's lyon wrought in red upon their breads, the effigies of a faint, and a rich gold canopy by it; other effigies of faints in filver, and their canopies; then fol¬ low’d the feveral orders of friars (the Je- fuits were not in this proceffion) with their banners. Among the orders came fome boys and youths in religious habits ■, then the canons of feveral churches. As every one pafs’d by the altar, they look’d down¬ wards, and made a low bow to it firft, and then to the duke. Before all the procef¬ fion was ended, the mafs was ended ■, and then ^oo Skippon. then one in a furplice (who flood all the while to keep order) fpake to the fathers and canons to fing Fe Deum , which was begun by thole that were nigh the altar, at the conclufion of the mafs. During the mafs a relick was brought to be kifs’d by the duke, &c. good mufick all the while * and many muficians with their in- flruments went in the proceffion. i. Maria S. Maria Formofa hath a large piazza Formofa. near j t . 5. Fufca. Nigh S. Fufca we obferved prepara¬ tion for bonefires, which were made up¬ on the election of a new pivoan at this church. We were much beholden to one Borrel of Collen , a merchant, who fhew’d us great civility. He fpake Engli/h, and car- Murano. ry’d us one day, in his gondola, to Mu- ram , which is fome diflance from the ci¬ ty, and confifls of i'ome iflands built with many houfes, mofl of which are inhabi¬ ted by glafs-men. Making of We faw fome of their furnaces* and looking- obferved the making of looking-glades after this manner. Firft a workman dipt one end of an iron pipe into a crucible with liquor that was in the furnace, where Jie turn’d the iron three or four times, and takes up fome quantity of the liquor, which he carry’d to a fmooth iron, and rolled it thereon •, then he blowed it, and rolled it again •, after that he put it into the crucible, and took up more of the liquor, and turned the iron round fome time over the crucible *, then he blew again a little, and brought it to the fmooth iron, where he blew it, and rolled it, as be¬ fore •, next he rolled his iron pipe over a tub of water, and cooled it by fprinkling fome on it; then he went and took more liquor out, which he rolled, and blew with¬ in the furnace, refting the iron on an iron like an andiron fpits move on. He came then the laft time to the fmooth iron, and there roll’d and blew the glafs bigger and bigger. After this he put it into the fur¬ nace, and turned it about a little while ; then he took it out, and placed it over an iron held crofs, where he turned it about, and another pinched it a little with a kind of tongs or pinchers, whilft the glafs was blowing •, then he that pinch’d it, took a fharp iron, and made at the end of the glafs, a hole, and immediately it is put into the furnace, and turned about ; then prefently taken out, and placed over the crofs iron, and is widened to its full big- nefs by the pincers or tongs which the other man ufed whilft the glafs was turn’d about: after that the glafs was meafur’d, and put into the furnace where it was roll’d again, then prefently taken out, and [. Italy . given to another fellow (who flood Upon a bench) where, with a pair of fciflars, it was cut half thro’ the length ; then where the pincers had made a furrow or circular impreflion near the iron pipe, a little water was put, and the glafs knock’d off, but it was firfl faflen’d to another iron at the other end; then the glafs thus inverted was put into the fur¬ nace and rolled, and prefently given to the man again on the bench, where the glafs was cut quite thro’ ; immediately then it was knock’d off upon a great peel, whereon it was flatted, and then both peel and glafs were fpeedily put into the furnace, and oftentimes (four times) changed the ends which were put in, firfl one and then the other ; after that they took it off the peel, and placed it on a fmooth flone on the top of the furnace, where it was to be nealed many hours, to avoid breaking. While the glafs was upon the peel, they flatted the glafs often¬ times with an iron, and a piece of wood like an oar. The aforementioned pincers were waxed when the glafs was widened, which caufed frequent flafhes within. The Venetians ufe glafs chamber-pots, which are preferved from breaking by being put into llrong flafks. We faw at another furnace ( where Making of drinking-glades are made) the making drinking . of a wine-glafs with many ornaments. Firft the workman faflened an iron to each thigh, and, as he fate, took out a little liquor with his blowing-iron; and, after he had blown it a little, he rolled it about within the furnace ; then he took out more liquor, and blew again ; after which a hole was made at the further end, then put into the furnace, and taken out again prefently, and the hole was widened by the pincers; fo the body of the glals was made: the foot of it was made after the fame manner, only at laft it was flat¬ ted broad enough. The round pedeftal was faihioned in a hollow iron lcrewed within, and faftened to the flat bottom by putting a little frefti liquor, which cements both together, and to the bottom of the upper glafs by the fame. The handles and other ornaments were made at feveral times by feveral drops of the liquor, which is fhaped as the workman pleafes, who turns them into their forms with a little pair of pincers. Crucibles in this furnace, with feveral coloured liquors. At one houfe we faw a great quantity of cogallie or pebbles, of a glittering white colour, which are found in the river.in the dutchy of Malian. Thefe pebbles are broken with a hammer. tyl Journey thro' Fart of the Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 501 and afterwards into powder, by ftamps, which are moved thus. Oxen on a floor above move the wheel A , which turns the axes B B B, fup- ported by the polls P P P P P P, and thofe axes lift up theftamps SSSSSSSSS, that beat the Hones to powder, which is mingled with an equal quantity of kali allies, and then melted together in the furnace. If the alhes of kali or berillia be too Itrong, then they put more of the beaten ftone. They have obferved that they cannot make fo good glafs on the other fide of the ftreet, or in any other part of Murano , Venice , &c. as they do where we faw the furnaces. Grinding J n a fhop at Venice we. faw the grinding °^la 7 cs tng ~ looking-glafles, after this manner. A B is a fmooth iron (placed on a table) whereon is fprinkled water, and the dull of a ftone called. C D is an iron frame, wherein the glafs is fix’d by a cement. E is a knob of wood plained very fmooth, and which refts upon the glafs. F is a handle that is joyn’d both to the knob, and to the ceiling at G, the motion whereof grinds the glafs. st. Barna- St. Barnabas bridge is noted for a fight b fsbridge, at fifty-cuffs every Sunday in warm wea¬ ther, between the Caftellani and Nicolitce , two factions maintained among the com¬ mon people, in memory of the IJirians Healing away the brides and their portions one night out of S. Maria Formofta \ but the Caftellani overtook them, and reco- Vol. VI, vered all again. The two parties meet Skippon. on the top of the bridge, and beat one another with their fills only. Some are thrown down into the water, and others ('but not often) are more dangeroufly hurt: fometimes fome are kill'd. Noble¬ men Hand by, and encourage each fide all the while. We went by gondola beyond St. Pietro di Caftello , to an ifland (not far from the caltlcs) where the Carthufians have a cloi- carthup* Her, which hath a large meadow and vine- ms. yards before it. In their garden we faw many pots of flowers, &c. which are kept alive all winter, by removing them out of the air in the night-time, and fetting them in a little room where the pans of coals keep them warm. Spanijh jafmine and many flowers grew againft the wall, which are fheltred by a penthoufe and mats. The monks cells are round a court, about 25 in all. Every monk hath a little houfe and garden by himfelf. In one we had the freedom to obferve thefe parti¬ culars. In every one of their gardens there is a well, and they keep land-tor- Land-tie* toifes in banks of earth, which lay about to: ft s - feven or eggs apiece in the fummer time, in holes they fcrape for them. Thefe eggs are thus buried in the earth, with¬ out any other warmth, till the next fpring, when young tortoifes come forth. They are counted pretty good meat, and are eaten by thefe monks. Every cell hath a neat out-room and a prefs of books. "Within that room is a bed-chamber clean¬ ly and neatly kept. They do not lie in fheets, but between warm blankets on ftraw. Their habit is of white ferge, having a cope of the fame, which they al¬ ways wear over the other : their cuculli are alfo of ferge. They wear no linen fhirts, and are fiiaven very clofe on their heads. Their rules are ftridl, being not permitted to fpeak one to another, but only on Sundays and Tburfdays , and great feftivals before and after dinner, when they dine all together in the Refe£iorium t If any ftranger comes to fpeak with one of them, they firft afk leave of their prior. He and the fub-prior (but none of the reft,) have liberty to go out of the convent. They go to the choir about five hours of the night, which is about midnight, and flay two hours, then return again to their beds, and at 12 hours they are in the choir again •, after that they re¬ tire to their cells, and before dinner they have their devotions once more, and in the afternoon fay their vefpers. They have their meals (except on Sundays, &c.) brought to their feveral cells. We ob¬ ferved one of them thus ferved at fupper ; a fervant unlocked a little wooden win- 6 M dow $02 SsirpoK. dow by the fide of the door, and put in there a pot of wine, three potched eggs, a little difh of boiled fpinach, a piece of cheefe, and two apples; thefe the friar within takes and puts upon his table, which is let down from the fide of a wall, within which appears three or four fhelves with glafles and other conveniences like a cup-board. The lay-brothers of this order have the fame fafhioned habit with the fathers, but the colour is like the Capuchins. Every June the prior, or fome delegate from every convent of this order, is lent to their general council held at the grand chartreufe nigh Grenoble in France. St. Bruno was the infiitutor of this order of friars. JNT^. 18. We went with our padrone, or mailer of our lodging, to a court in the palace, where all llrangers are obli¬ ged to ihew themfelves (this is called the Bolletin) and then they are permitted to ftay what time they pleafe in the city. Si. Srefe- St. Stejfeut&’s church is handfome, have- no- ing within over the weft entrance, a rtatue of Dominicus Contarenus on horfeback, and an inlcription under him, printed in Sanfovinus p. 133. Nigh this church is an indifferent piazza, and adjoyning is a fair cloifter. AcomcJ . We went once after fupper to fee a co¬ medy, where at the door we paid 16 loldi, when others paid but fix foldi apiece. In the cock-pit were chairs, let for eight fol- di a chair, many of which were befpoke and marked. Round about w r ere four or five rows of boxes of a imall fize, where the Venetian gentlemen and others fate. The ftage was very mean, having four great tapers on it. Before the play be¬ gan, the gentlemen and company were impatient, and call’d out often, Fuora , Fuora •, and they made a great noife when they ftamp’d and whiffled, and call’d to one another. Thofe that fate in the boxes did frequently fpit upon the company in the pit, fo that all appeared very rude. We obferved but three acts in the play, which was very immodeft and obicene •, nothing that was fober would pleafe the company, who were ready to hifs, and they dilguft any thing that was not filthy. The gentlemen, and fome with their wives or whores, came masked and difguifed. Some of the noblemen that flood near the ftage, would often interrupt the actors, and dilcourfe whth them. Tuners! of Decemb. 1. We faw the funeral of Fer- * Spjir.t'h y.andcs Ar.lor.io Carolo de Vera, Spanijh tm- emcajfudor. bafi % don In the middle 0 f St . Mark’s church was let up a cupele covered with black. On the top of it were fet many [Italy lighted candles in the figure of a pyramid. From hence the funeral proceffion began, which I obferved in St. John and Paul’s church, where the interrment was. Round the choir and body of this church hung black, whereon was painted the embal- fador’s arms, deaths heads, the arms of Venice , &c. In the body of this church was eredted alfo a high cupele, with a pyramid of lighted candles on the top, and two broad pair of flairs up to the middle of it, one towards the weft door, and the other towards the choir. At the bottom of both thefe afeents, on each fide, flood a large ftatue made of cloth, fffV. black all over •, and at the top of the afeents were lefier ftatues, befides four about the body of the cupele, every ftatue having a lighted candle in his hand. There came in at the weft door of the church, firft a great number of banners and images, among which were lighted tapers ; next fome priefts in their furpli- ces, then more tapers; and there fol¬ lowed eight religious orders with their banners, befides friars of mount Olivet, and two orders more ; canons in blue habits with furplices over them, having a blue flappet over their left fhoulders. After them came canons of eleven feveral churches, which may be diftinguifhed by their tippets over their furplices, viz. fome had gold tippets flowered with vel¬ vet, fome fcarlet flowered with gold ; others red velvet; blue, and flowered with gold ; gold, and flowered with red velvet; gold, and flowered with green ; broad gold tippets flowered wffth red *, red tknvered velvet with a gold lift i black velvet and gold edges, with the picture of the virgin Mary wrought in it. After thefe w^ent many other canons before the ftatue of the embaflador, drefs’d up in his own apparel, having his Spanijh hat on his head, his fword lying upon him, and his fpurs on. Over him they carry’d a canopy, and candles before and behind the herfe ; then came the duke’s officers before the duke ; after him went the pope’s nuncio and the French king’s em¬ baflador •, then fome fenators, and 24 clofe mourners, w r ho had long black gowms which trailed on the ground, and a black mourning hood. Each mourner had a Venetian nobleman went by his fide ; and after them came hofpital boys and girls. The embaflador’s effigies was laid in the cupele, and the duke fcated himfelf in the choir, and againft him was a feat erected, where one of the Somaski order made an oration in praife of the deceas’d embaflador. This friar’s order hath its name from a place in the territory of Ve¬ nice , and was founded by Hieronymo Mi- ayni. A Journey thro' Part oj the i Italy.'] Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 50 ainy, a nobleman of this hate. They differ little from the Jefuits in their ha¬ bit, &c. In his fpeech he faid the em- baffador was defcended from Numa Pom - f ilms and M. Aurel. Anton. and thatmoft of the kings in Europe , efpecially Arra- gon and Hungary , were related to his fa¬ mily. The embaflador’s hither was Joan. Antonius Comes de Rocha, a great fcholar, and his Ion’s tutor. That the embaffador underflood Greek , Latin , Italian , French , and Dutch that he was the youngeft in the king of Spain’s council. He died of a late epidemical diftemper, which kill’d many people •, and that in his ficknefs he told the Venetian fenators. It was his greateft comfort he fhould leave his bo¬ dy where his mind had always been. He concluded his oration with faying, That he might ufe the fame epitaph Hermolaus Barbaras did, who was born at Venice , and died at Rome ; Non potuit nafei nobili- ufq-, mori \ fo the embaffador was born in Spain , and died at Venice. His wife’s name was Avidade Guzman , &c. to whom part of the fpeech was directed *, for he told her, She might be comforted, be- caufe her husband died in favour with his prince, and was buried by the Venetians regia magnificentid. When the fpeech was ended, the Pri- micerius of St. Mark , who had a mitre on his head, and feveral priefts perform’d fome ceremonies at the cupele, with hing¬ ing, &c. After that, the embaffador’s ftatue was carried into the chapel of Ma¬ donna di Rofario , where it was laid upon the ground, and fome fervice faid over it; then the ftatue was carry’d out to another place, and fo the folemnity ended. Ufu- aily the burial of a duke does not exceed this. Every fchuola of this city is obliged to fend 28 ftandards with their candles, to any fuch folemn funeral. Frandf- Adjoyning to the fchuola of St. Roch, ems - is a convent of Francifcans, where, round •the walls of a great cloifter, are fixed many marble monuments, and the walls painted. The like we obferved in other cloifters of Venice. Schnola of The fchuola of St. Mark is a large it. Mark, building, with a curious marble front. The lower room of it is long, with two rows of pillars; at the further end where¬ of is an altar. Two fair afeents lead up to a very great room, which hath a roof rarely carved, and the fides adorned with pictures. At the further end of this is an altar. This place is adjoyning to the Dominicans at St. Giovanni & Paolo. One day we hired a gondola for iofol- di an hour, and went by St. Georgio Mag- giore , the ifiands of Maria di gratia , Skippon. S. Spirito , Povegia, See. on the left hand of us, having monafteries in them. We were told, That in S. Spirito there did live 10 or 12 monks of the order of St. Servadore, who took too much liberty and pleafure ; and that the whole order was abolifhed by the pope about 10 years ago, and all their revenue in the Venetian ftate, forfeited to the ftate. Then four miles from the city we came to Malamocco , Malamoc* built with many houfes, where we faw co. Englijh and Dutch fhips, &c. which firft come (about a mile from Malamocco ) by two forts or caftles that command the paf- fage between the two out banks or necks of land. . . . church hath a very fair front, and the infide handfome. On a large grave- ftone here is inferib’d, OJJa Marci Antonii Trivifani Principis. Vixit annos lxxix. in Principatu 1. mdliiii. In the choir is a fair monument eredled to Andreas Gritto duke of Venice. See the infeription of this and others in Sanfovinus. Many little chapels in the ifles •, in one of which is an infeription to Baduarius , a procurator of St. Mark. On the fouth fide is a chapel, the walls whereof are curioufiy crufted with marble ; a fine al¬ tar and a rich gilt roof here. On one fide of it is an infeription to Francifcus Contarenus duke, and on the other fide is written, D. 0 . M. Joannes et Aloyfus Eques ac Divi Marci Procurator Nicolai Contareni Filii , Serenijfimi Duels Francifci Nepotes obfe- quentijjuni , facellmn hoc exornarunt et grati animi memoriam pofuere An. Domini MDCLVIIII. Nigh this church is a great palace, over the gates whereof are the pope’s arms, and over one gate is written, Has Aides Xyjlo V. Pont. Max. deno Refp s Ser’ma dedit , grata renovatur memoria Clemen. VIII. Pont. Max. regnante. Within the court yard is another in¬ feription, viz. Jacobus Altovitus Archiep. Athcnarum el Alexandri VII. PM. apud Venelos Lega- tus Quo erga fedem Apoflolicam Venelce in hifee tribuendis cedibus pietatis frudlus ube- rior \ fibiq-, ac fuccejforibus jucundiorem ei ampliore Mas forma varia pill lira, ccete- roq-, multiplici ornatu decorandus curavit. An. Sal. mdcj.x, St- ‘vArf A Journey tiro’ Part of the [Italy. 504. Skippon. St. Antonio's church belongs to a nun- nery, where, over the door of a fair -of 0 ' palace, is this following infcription, church. Hofpitium Virginum a Faucibus Orel Deo Dei- parceq-, immaculate conceptarum mdclviii Belli vero Ottomanici xim. pofuit mini¬ mus inter homines, interq-, peccatores ma- scumus , ut inde J'alus Patrice , ira ob cri- mina jure feeviente , fuperum utq\ Virgine intercedente pofi dilulas culpas fumma Dei dementia , manfiuncula fibi tandem refer - vetur in Ccelis. Againft this place we faw feveral great fhips of the Venetians. One morning we hired a gondola and two men, giving them nine livres for their attendance on us the whole day. Firft we pafs’d by a fmall ifland with a convent in it called St. Chrijtopher •, then by St. Michael , a neat cloifter in another ifland, the monks whereof are habited in white, and are of the order of St. John ; afterwards we went by Murano , and pre- fently encred a channel between the La- gune on our left hand, having on our right, at fome diftance, the Lazaretto nova , a fair large building •, and on the fame hand had a Francifcan’s cloifter, and thefe iflands, viz. St. Giacomo di Pa- lude , Sarrafi and Majorbo ; then we came Buran. to Buran , which is almoft as big as Mu¬ rano. , and is joyn’d to another ifland by a long wooden bridge. Oppofite to Bu¬ ran is 5 Vorcella, where they build great boats. Five miles from Buran (having pafs’d a very large water frequented by a multitude of coots and fea-cobs) we catne to two Valles ; one is great, belonging to Zani, a Venetian nobleman, and the other belongs to Malpiero , another noble¬ man. A Valle is a large fpace of water a Vaiie. enclofed about with reeds fupported by ftakes. Without the reeds are ftakes to keep boats off from injuring them, and within is a fmall ifland, wherein dwells a keeper, who would not permit us to en¬ ter, tho’ we requefted it very earneftly ; but we were informed, that the ufe of them is both for the catching of fifli and fowl. For the more eaiy taking of fifli, the reed-hedge is indented into many cor¬ ners, and within lower reeds are placed, which are fet in this manner like a T. the nets being drawn into the corners. At one part of the valle is an Arundinc~ turn. The great number of fifli invites many fowl, which are moft frequent in the mornings and evenings. Once or twice a month the owner gives leave to many people, who come in gondola’s, and fhoot what they can; for the fowl are not eafily driven away, notwithftand- ing the continual fhooting and killing. A Valle yields a confiderable profit, and fome are let for about 400 ducats per An¬ num. Oyfters are kept in thefe valles , which are 10 miles from the city. We faw a Cavo-fango , with which the Civo-fan- channels about Venice are cleanfed of mud g°- and filth s it is made after this manner i A B CD is a great fquare boat, have- ing in the middle a fpiral maft made of elm, which at E is turned by four men, and fo moves two ftrong beams F G, which are joyn’d together ; and at i they have a ferew made of nut-tree, by the motion whereof on the fpiral maft, they are lifted upwards and downwards; and when F is down, G is raifed up. At H is a large box, where many great (tones are put to help the motion of the crane or beams downwards. At K is an axis of iron. N is a huge iron fpade that hangs by two pieces of wood which move on an axis L M. This fpade being let down in¬ to the mud, by the fpiral-maft’s moving the ends of the beams at G upwards, there is a great iron fcoop R V, which is pull’d open from the fpade, by winding up of a rope at which rope moves over a double Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 505 luily.'] double pully Z, and is faften’dto the chain X fix’d towards the bottom of the fcoop. it is fiiuL by winding up the rope S at P, and moving the rope over the pully O, and at the lame time loofening the rope P. The fcoop being full of mud, and fhut againft the fpade N, the fpiral is turned back, and fpade and fcoop are lifted up over a large mud boat, and immediately dae fcoop is pulled open, that the mud may fall out. Every fcoop full is equal to at lead three good cart loads, and may be thus empty’d feveral times in an hour. When G is down the fpiral, the mail bends a little forwards ; but when it goes upwards, the fpiral-maftHands ftrait. At the bottom of the fpiral is a very thick piece of wood ftrengthen’d with four crofs irons and the whole fpiral-maft {lands in an iron hollow, wherein it moves back¬ wards and forwards a little. The iron work of this engine coft (they fay) 700 ducats. This Cavo-fango boat may be railed higher or lower in the wa¬ ter, as the workmen pleafe ; for at AC 8 are long poles; ex. gr. a b is a pole fix’d in the mud, and faften’d to the boat by an iron hook at 8, and ^is a rope, which be¬ ing wound up at g, on the axis at d, the boat is raifed higher. Five or fix of thefe engines belong to Venice ; and in each are feven or eight men, befides two men to manage themud-boat. It is faid a Frenchman invented it, and a Venetian reformed and perfected it. We faw on the 22d Jan. being Candle¬ mas day, Sti.Novo , the duke, &c. go in procefiion, from S. Maria Formofa in me¬ mory of the brides recovered out of the TJlrians hands. Tragedy. One night we faw at S. Samuello a tra¬ gedy, wherein was much drollery, and a defign laid to abufe the memory of our queen Elizabeth , fhe being reprefcnted much in love with the earl of Ejj'ex , whom fire at laft beheaded. The occafion of his death they made this: one Lucinda being alfo in love with Ejj'ex , Hie feeing him and the queen talking privately together, dif- charged a piftol at the queen, for which Ejj'ex was fufpedted, and fo loft his life. The fool in the play kifs’d the queen. Monument At the Mendicanti one Bujhnell , an Eng- *f Aioyiius lijhvian , is carving a monument for Aloy- Mocenigo. j' t;(S Moccnigo, who hath deferved this fol¬ lowing inlcription. Ne mclem quam cernis Maufoleurn puta fpectator Priumphus hoc eft qui Cretce pofetus Aloyfio Mocenico D. Marci Procuratori Hue per Civium lachrymas adveAus eft D. Marcus Sofpitator Vol. VI. SJui Mocenico; genii Suitm jujjit militare Leonem In Aloyjio vel Extin Ao rugit Cives illius exemplo Ad gloriam provocaturus Hie Maris Mars ; P'err re Perror Venetce clajfts bis Imperator Patrice femper falus Religione , Confilio , Pietate , Bellica Virtute clarijjimus Habes tot doenmenta A P’.ircis Jefu Bethleemi Martinenghi Vitturi. D. Dernetrii propugnacula Bene expugnata propugnavit D. Pheodori Purluli muniment a Ex ungnibus hoftium evulftt Phracum clajfes viAoriamm aura tumidas Adverfum Martem pati nefeias Cladibus ajfuefcere docuit Parvaq-, manu profligatus Poto Algeo profugas egit AJfanum Bajfam Babylonia domitorem Interfecit Natalinum Furlanum Olhomananm navium Moderatorem A Chrifto , Venetifq-, Pransfugam Catenis oneravit Plire arum cunicnlis lacerata Creta Per murorum hiatus Se in Vrbe?n hofte ejfundente Perterritos Duces , plorantes Cives Milites abeuntes revocavit Fugce confiliarmn virga caftigavit Solus fenex ferreum fe murum objiciem Hoftes percecidit , fugavit Veneto imperio in una Ur be Potum regnum reftituit Nefcio Romanum Metellum An Venetum Aloyfium. Cretenfis vocabulo aptius honeftes Ills regnum domuit , hie ajfcruit Hinc a Cretenfi fsnatu populoq-, Aureo , cereoq ; numifmate donatus eft Priumphorum plenus Palmas accepturus obiit Anno mdcliiii. menfe OAobri die xvii Aloyftus et Petrus D. M. Procuratores ex Peftamento Commijfarii , magno Patruo Lachrymabundi pofuere. In 1663. Sig’ri Simon Giogalli and Gu- lielmo Samuelli were my merchants. In 1 664 -. Signior Pietro Paolo Campana was my merchant. 1663. The firft time I was at Venice there were Englifh* thefe Englijh , men - Dr. IVillughby and Mr. Swale, a 7 ork- Jhire papift, ftudents of Padua. The earl of Caftlemain , Mr. James Pal¬ mer, fellow of Trinity-college Cambridge, 6 N Mr. 505 SkIPPON. A Journey thro 9 Part of the [Italy . Skipfon. Mr. James Oxinden, Mr. Beck, fellow of '-''‘Y'SJ King’s-college. Mr. Hales , an ill-condition’d merchant co Mr. Willughby, Mr. Jones, conful of the Englijh nation, who kept an entertain- ing-houfe. Mr. Henry Majfingberd, lately of Tri¬ nity-college, Mr. Comer, a mufician and a pi and 508 Skuton. an d a long rope E which being pull’d down by the weight of the ftone S, moves over the pully F ., and unwinds at C D. This ftone, by the help of the cord q , is wound up over the ftage, at the turnftile M and that being let go, the rope E unwinding off the axis A B , turns the axis from C to D, and winds up the cords d d d d d ; and the forementioned hooks being put into the noofes of ropes Hi it, &c. pull towards the axis the anting or bottoms of frames wherein the painted fcenes are, and bring them forward in fight of the fpeclators: y y , &c. is a cord that couples two of thole animce ; and as the hook i is placed in the noofe, fo the bottoms of the frame or anima move for¬ ward and backward, ex. gr. when x v is drawn forward, then b c is pull’d back¬ ward, the cord y moving on the pully z. There is a man always ftands ready at M , {Italy. who, upon a fign given, lets the ftone fall, and changes a great number of fcenes on a fudden, there being many of thefe hooks and aninue. Before another fcene appears, the ftone mull be wound upagain. Thofe fcenes which fall downwards as arches, &c. are let down by a long axis above, juft in the fame manner. The frames of the fcenes move within the flits 0000 , &c. made in the floor of the ftage A. The floor of the ftage rifes as profpe&s do from the eye. The pictured fcenes are very lively at a good diftance, and by candle-light; but near hand the work is very great and coarfe. The curtain before the ftage, is drawn up by a great many ropes lapp’d about an axis, which is alfo turn’d by the weight of a great ftone. journey thro ’ Part of the The Engine us'd to fly down with. A B C D are two furrows in a long frame crofs the top of the fcenes. EE E E are four wheels belonging to a chariot that hangs underneath, and wherein an actor fits, who flies clown by the help of two fmall chains H H, which chains un¬ wind off the axis at G G and as they unwind, a rope, tied to a beam at K , is wound up on a wheel i, and the chariot runs from Mto K. Another rope ty’d to the back of the engine at M, unwinds off an axis at L ; which being wound up again, draws back the engine. In the carnival time there is a publick allowance of playing at cards in the ri- dotto, a great hall where, in the night, we fawmany large rooms fill’d with game- fters. Several Venetian noblemen fate be¬ fore a table and a heap of gold ; and many that play’d with them were in maf- querade. In a cloifter underneath were many porters and water-men playing. The game is baffet, after this manner: G A™ e °f he that keeps the bank or ftock of money, fhuffles the cards ; then any one that flakes what he pleafes, names a card, as ace, two, &c. no matter of what fuit; then the banker turns the cards with their faces upwards, and deals two at a time, laying them down by him till the card comes, which, if firft of the pair, the dealer wins; but if the fecond of the pair, the other wins. When that card is dealt out, an¬ other card is named, and lb on till they be dealt; and if the card call’d for be the laft of the firft pair, the banker lofes no¬ thing •, but if it be the firft of the firft pair, he wins two thirds of the flake, which is the advantage the dealer has by a fafard (this being fo call’d.) As many as will, may play at a time } but they mull carefully mark; th^ir card. If the card Italy .] Low^Countries, Germany, Italy ,and France. 509 card named be in the firfl pair before the pack be turned with the faces upwards, it is no fafard, for either the dealer or the other wins, as the card is firft or laft. Many that play, come in mal'querade, win or lofe a great deal of money, go away and never lpeaka word. The banker is obliged to pay as far as his bank will ; but if he hatli not enough, he leaves his bank to the winner, and goes his way. Che gioco guadagna , che mette perde , che iaglia ariecha, is a proverb. The cards in ul'e here are the fame in number with ours, and are divided into four Cuits, viz. i. Spadi, 2. Bajliom , 3. De¬ nari, 4. Copi , being differently painted from ours. The king is known by his crown ; the cavallo, or a man on horfe- back, is inftead of the queen ; and the fami or footman inftead of the knave. Ponte Ri- Ponte Rialto is a bridge of one very large ^ to - arch over the grand canal, and is very broad, having Jhops of each fide. This bridge being engrav’d, and common to be met with in every nation, I fhall refer thereto. Nigh this bridge is a building whereon is written, Principatus Leonardi Lauredani inclpi Du¬ ds MDXXI. Jews. The Jews have their quarters in a part of the city where they are fhut up every night, a Jew and a chriilian keeping the keys of the gates. In this place call’d the Gheto , they have a large piazza built about with houies ieven and eight llories high, three or four families living in a houfe. They have five or fix fynagogues. We met with one Jew who fipoke Eng- lijh, and had lived with his uncle Ferdi- nando , a rich merchant in London. He told us many of thefe particulars follow¬ ing, viz. That the Jews in Venice were about 4000, men, women, and children, and were divided into three nations, 1. the Italians , 2. Spaniards and PortugueJ'e , 3. Levantins. Each nation hath its judges, the Italians three, the Spaniards and Por- tuguefe three, and the Levantins one, chofen by the fevtral nations once in three years, who govern and order chief aff airs. In every lynagogue they alfo have rulers or elders, cholen once every year. In the Spanijhicvzn are eledted, but in the others the number is uncertain. They read the law and the prophets once over in a year. The law is divided into 52 Paraja'i. Every day of the week they have lervice three times, viz. in the morning, afternoon, and the evening *, and thrice a week they read the law, viz. on Mondays, Tburfdays and Saturdays . On Vol. VI. Mondays and Tburfdays they read it only Skippon. in the morning ; but on Saturdays they '^\ r ^ read it both in the forenoon and afternoon. When the law is to be read, the rulers of the lynagogue appoint, every time feven readers, the firft of which muff be of Aaron's, family, thefecondof Levi's tribe, the other five are taken out of the com¬ mon Ifrael. They obferve three feafls, the pafiover, the feafl of tabernacles, and the giving out of the law. The p ilfover is kept eight days: the firft and latt day are lolcmniz’d in the fynagogues ; but the other fix are obferv’d only as holy days, being oblig’d not to work in that I pace •, but may go abroad and take their pleafures. When the law is read over, it is carry’d round the fynagogue within, with great Tinging, (Ac. Thole that carry the law, buy that ho¬ nour, and the money is bellowed on the poor, and for the maintaining of the fyna¬ gogue. The pafiover is ro: kept here with a lamb, but with unleavened bread made into cakes. When they are at fer- vice in the fynagogue, they cover their heads with a veil, at each corner whereof is written the name Jehovah, that is wrought in. On each arm, and on their breads they wear that name. The rulers of the fynagogue chufe a rabbi, who preaches to them once a month, and is allow’d about 100 /. per annum fterling. There is no creation of rabbi’s, or or¬ daining of minifters; only thofe that have ftudied, and are learned, are ufually de¬ fied by the rulers of the fynagogue, to be minifters. All the Jezvs children are taught to read the bible in Hebrew ; and he that teaches them is allow’d as much as the minifler or rabbi. Circumcifion is ufually perform’d in the parents houfes. The father redeems the child by giving the rabbi or minifler feme pieces of filver ; but if the parents be poor, he goes to the mother, and tells her, God hath given the child to him, but confidering file would be a good nurfe, he bellows that money on her to bring up the child. If the pa¬ rents be rich, and the prielt not pour, he gives the money to the poor. One Saturday morning we faw their fer- vice, which was perform’d in a finging tone that continu’d a good while; then one in a large defk (hiving four marble pillars fupporting a canopy over it) fung, and all the congregation fung. Handing up with their faces towards the end of the room, where the lav/ is kept in a prefs, with a curtain before it, and adorned with marble pillars, and rails about it. When they had fung thus for a long time, he in the defk, and one or two more, fetch’d the law, all the people Handing up, and 6 Q finging u° Sktppom. Tinging very loud, till the law was brought brother’s birthright; and he ufed much (/VNJ and laid down in the desk. They went adtion with his body and hands. After on one fide of the fynagogue to fetch it, he had done, a prayer was faid, all the and brought it the other fide, one of the people Handing up, but none uncovering fynagogue carrying it, and the reader fol- their heads (which they never do in their lowing him. When they came up into fynagogues) they all at that time mut- the desk, the filver tops of the Umbilici tered fomewhat. When the fermon was were taken off, and an embroider’d doth ended they all thanked him aloud, unbound •, then he that brought it, open’d All the Jews wear fuch veils in the the law, and held it up towards the con- fynagogue as they do at Amfterdam •, but gregation, turning himfelf round. We thefe at Venice only cover’d their fhoulders obferved when they were bringing the with them, and not their heads, except law. Tome of the fynagogue windows were the reader and one or two more, open’d. The reader read aloud in the The fynagogue we were in, is large, law, and then he that brought if read to and towards the roof, hath an oval gal- himfelf, and after a little time he whif- lery laticed, where the women come once per’d fomewhat to the reader, who fpoke or twice in a week, it out aloud: we were told, it was his There were many brafs candlefticks and charity to the poor, for redeeming of lamps, fome of which, before the place Jews in flavery, (Ac. After this manner where the law is kept, were lighted, feven went up into the desk, read, (Ac. Thefe Jews have procedures among and as they came down and went by fome, themfelves againft creditors, (Ac. and do they faid fomething to them. We obferv’d alfo ufe the laws of Venice. fome of thefe feven, when they were re- Under every fynagogue are entrances, turn’d to their feats, touch’d many near with benches round, where many that them on the tops of their hats; and fome come too late, fit and fay their devotions, of the feven went to others and were None of them dare to attempt the pro- touch’d themfelves. When the feven had nouncing of the name Jehovah. All done, the law was carry’d back the fame the men wear hats cover’d with red ; the way they fetch'd it, all the people ftand- women have a head-drefs hanging back¬ ing up, and finging aloud. Before it was ward in their necks, and fome of them put into the prefs, fomewhat was fung wear red head-dreffes. The Levantine near that place, and after that, all Hood Jews wear turbants, and are girt about the with their faces that way, and once they middle of their loofe gowns, their habits made a low bow together, with a general being not much different from the Lurks. great ftamp,and then they made a prayer. We went into fome of the Jews houfes Before the law was brought out, we and fhops, which were crowded up with observed between their prayers and hymns, all forts of houfhold-ftuff, they generally a boy that fung for fome time alone ; and trading in buy ing and felling of old after the feven had read, a boy read fome- cloaths, (Ac. what out of a book in the desk, in a fing- The Jews fwear too freely per Dio fanto , ing tone. &c. ■A Journey thro’ Part of the [Italy. Between their prayers, before the read¬ ing of the law, one in the desk fpoke fomewhat in Italian (which we did not well underhand) to the congregation *, and the reader, between the reading of the law, fpoke alfo in Italian to fuch as ow’d monies to the fynagogue. After¬ wards the other fellow told them in Italian , that one (naming him) would preach in the afternoon. This morning fervice being done, they went home to dinner, and return’d pre- fently after to the fynagogue, where they did as in the forenoon ; then we heard a Jew preach in the desk. He difeours’d in Italian , with his hat on, and his veil about his fhoulders. He fpoke con¬ cerning Jacob's prudence in getting his In this city many Greeks are tolerated s. George'* the freedom of their religion ; and they c ^[ irch have a church dedicated to St. George^ which is not large, but adorned with pic¬ tures, and a cupola in the middle of the roof. The high altar hath many pictures of Chrift and faints about it, and on each fide is a little altar. Before them is a fereen or partition of wood, with a door before every altar. On the outfide of the partition are the pidlures of our Saviour, the virgin Mary , St. George , St. Nicolas , MofeSy CofmaSy &c before which ftand eight candles in high brafs ftandards. On each fide of the church are double feats or ftalls. Over the door to the great al¬ tar is the pidlure of our Saviour’s head, and this underwritten, + XbOQ o thTrljnv hs a ix. rir tw ^’AAov-tos choitvoi. Mi^ariA Ty FlgTpy AHMf/KOT t« KuVpy 5ca< tw(/ xA»poi/ojw,&)r auT?. A. X. H. Tlpocrtloxw dvec^cccnwex-pcnv. AeovmppLWToLvy xa! twV KhtiporofAW ocurZ junvi Ivvln* t. e. 4.Z0TOC O HAP AC . O EE J (DANIN (DN.O EH I TOY AXONTOC, I£ AY0ENTOC nACIC MO A A OBOBAAXI AC flET'X TOY MIXNEC Skippon. TX rP(f) T O C n AO API O C K PA Ml P0CAT0VAEI©C EKAEX0E1C O AAMPtDC Ft OP0OAOS0C BHDCAC EN T®AE TO) ANHMEIffl T(l)'vno TX A A CA (I>X AHO S*OAOV KATACKEVAC0ENTI A/T© TE E TOIC KAffONOMOIC IPOCAOKXDN THN NEKP©N ANA- .s'AC IN . ITE.MEI. A.([).u.O. AIPIAAIX . 5. Area de Bernardo Acris de Cipro Feet a in memoria di Giacomo [no Padre de Vicenza Mufcorno [no Zio. Anno mdclvi. x. The X’bre. 6 . Thorns Flangmo Patronorum difertijfmo Maria Uxor Viro benem. H. M.P. ex Tejlam. obiit An. ab Incarn. mdcxlviii. Alt at. lxx. Over the door of the altar are two curious fmall pidlures of Aaron and Melcbifedek, and thefe infcriptions, viz. o Ayioi 7rpo

» scoct rrls aupplzs ecurZ Mccptccs. Over the door is an infeription, which I could but imperfedlly read, by reafon of the diftance, viz. Tmv \v ccpirccis a Tvclaxii euS'ox.ty.vcztvri ... euepyncTioiv dix f/.vnfjaiv r roS' ccpgfigj/To. Memories minor tali y Gabrielis Seviro Archiep. Philadelph. ut £1 doPlrina , pietate ct fancli- tate excelluit. Ser. Reip. ob eximiam fidem earns extitit , pofteris quoqy prceclar. exemplnm foret. Grceci incolce et advence. Bencficor. mem. nunqitam fatis Venerabundi. mdcxix. We obferved one Sunday , before they began their fervice, many Greeks , alfoon as they came into the middle of the church, turned their faces towards the high altar, crofs’d and bow’d themfelves three times, and afterwards went up to the pictures, and before each of them crofs’d and bow’d themfelves three times, and then kifs’d them. Many of the people then feated themfelves, and put on their hats; the better fort, among which fome Venetian noblemen, fate in the flails near the altar, and thofe of lcffer quality took their pla¬ ces in the lower half of the church, and many flood on a mat which covered the pavement: the upper half or choir had no company but thofe in the flails. The archbifhop of Philadelphia , and many monks attending him, came into the church j and making their reverences to the altar, the bifhop went to his chair raifed two fleps on the fouth fide of the church, having a carpet under his feet, and the monks took their feats in the flails on each fide of the choir. Immediately the altar door was open’d, and a curtain drawn, then the priefl that was to offici¬ ate, came to that door, being habited with A Journey thro ’ Part oj the [Italy. Skirrox. with a rich cope, open before, under which he had a long coat embroider’d, and a tippet before. The prieft Handing here with an incenfe pot in his hand, cen- led the pictures with a great deal of reve¬ rence, and then cenfed towards the bifhop, who receiv’d it with a bow and opening or his hand, and after that he cenfed the monks and people. A boy that flood by him, kils’d the bifhop’s hand, and then the priell read in a finging tone at the altar ■, a boy anfwered, and the people crofs’d themfelves •, the prieft read again, and the boy anfwered : after that the monks and priefts in the choir fung firft on one fide, and then on the other. The prieft and boy fung again, and the monks and priefts fung again *, after this there were two furplice boys, girt about the middle, one from the right, and the other from the left door of the high altar, (land¬ ing fome time by the doors; then they came towards the candles, where they alfo flood a w hile •, afterwards wentupthefteps before the altar door, one Handing on each fide of the afcent; then they went down, and each of them took a flandard with a lighted candle in it, firft making a low reverence to the altar, and then to the bifhop. With thele candles they went towards the left door of the high altar, and expedted a little till the prieft came out with a book in his hand, which he brought to the bifhop (the bifhop with the priefts flood bowing together to the altar) who came down one flep from his chair, and kifs’d it; the prieft then made a low bow to him and the altar, and re¬ turn’d by the middle door, the boys and candles going before him. All this time the people were very devout, bowing their heads, &V. The boys brought the candles to their places, and put them out, the monks and priefts finging. The prieft then read, and the boy anfwered ; the monks, &c. fung. A fellow went up a ladder and lighted the candles by the lamps (feven of them) that hang before the pictures. The prieft faid fomewhat at the door towards the people : a boy in the middle read and at his beginning to read the prieft faid fomewhat again. When the boy had done reading, he kifs’d the bifhop’s hand. The prieft faid fome¬ what, and the choir fung. A defk covered with a carpet is brought to the altar door, and the boys take their candles, and Hand fome diftance oft' before the door, whilft the prieft read the gofpel (part of the x cap. Lu.) in a finging tone, the people being very attentive, tho’, at other parts of tne fervice, they were remifs in their devotions: the desk is removed. About the beginning of the prieil’s reading the gofpel, the boy faid fomewhat, and at the end all the people crofs’d themfelves: the bifhop blefs’d the people. The altar curtain was drawn, the prieft read and boy anfwered ; then a paufe, the prieft at that time reading a myflical prayer. The prieft then read aloud, and the boy anfwered *, a fecond myflical prayer. The boy anfwered, when the prieft read again ; a third myflical prayer •, and fo till there were ten myflical prayers•, between every one the prieft read and the boy anfwered: then all the people crofs’d themfelves, and the choir fung whilft the prieft cenfed. The two boys with their candles making their vows to the altar and bifhop, went to the north door of the altar, where they waited a little for the prieft, who came out, the boys going b fore him with their candles, and one boy before him, cen- fing as he went, and another boy follow’d wun two tapers held crofs-ways. The prieft held in his right hand the cup, which was covered widt a filk or cloth, having the piCture of our Saviour on it *, and when it was brought out, the bifhop re¬ peated the creed and the Lord’s pr yer. In his left hand the prieft held over his head the bread, which was alfo cover’d ; and in this pofture he went to the middle of the choir and faid fomething j then he went to the bifhop, who ftep’d down from his feat, and bowed with his bare head toward the altar, all the people be¬ ing then extremely devout, bowing their heads and crofting themfelves: the prieft then returned, and read at the high altar, and the boys and monks fung. The two boys brought theircandles 10 their places, and put them out. After this the prieft came to the altar door, and cenfed as he did before ; then feveral collectors went about with filver difhes, and defircd peoples charity; and all the poor people th n in the church went up and down begging j in this time tne prieft faid fomething at the altar door. The boys candles are lighted again, and they fetch’d the prieft out of the lefc door, carrying the candles before him, and the boy who read in the middle of the choir, cenled him. The prieft now came out with the bread in his right hand, and over his head iomewhat veiled in his left hand. Behind him followed the boy with the two tapers held crofs-ways: the prieft went again to the bifhop, as before. He return’d to the altar, and then there was finging. The boys flood with their candles before the altar door, where the curtain being drawn open, the prieft held the cup, all the people bowing ; rhen the prieft laid fomething, and let the cup again upon the altar, bowing to it feveral times, and crofting himfelf. Tue choir kng. Italy. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 513 fung, and the prieft went to the left altar, and read there, the boy anfwering. Then the prieft came out into the body of the church (after he had faid fomething at the altar-door, and the candles were put out by the fellow that lighted them, and after the confecrated bread was brought in a filver difh, by a monk, from the altar, who held it by the archbifhop) with his cenfing-pot, and a little book in his hand, the choir fmging all the time. Then the prieft went to the middle door, and faid fomething there, and after that came out, and flood before the door before he went Lift in. The bread in the difh was cut into many pieces, and, as the fer- vicewas concluding, thofe of firft quality (after the monks) came and took the bread out of the biffiop’s hand, firft killing the biffiop’s hand, and ate it, and then the ordinary fort of people received the bread, and after them the prieft that officiated took the difh, and carried the bread to the women and the pooreft fort at the lower end of the church. Every one of the Greeks that took bread, went to the faints pictures and killed them. After all was done (leaving our fwords without) we went into their Santlum fandlo- rum , which fome of their priefts feemed very angry at. They ufed no holy water in this church, and have no images. The archbifhop was an old man ; his name was Michael , but now changed. He is chofen by the patriarch of Conftanti- nople. He had a long ftafF, black and fil- ver’d over. The top of it was like a crutch. His habit was purple, having hanging before him three lifts of red be¬ tween filver laces, and a piece of blue taffety on each fhoulder, and a piece at that part of his habit which covered his knees. l ie had on his head a black cap, not unlike that the vulgar Italians wear, and over that a black ferge hood, which hung loofe about his neck and fhoulders. The monks wear black gowns with open fleeves. Over their heads they have fuch caps and hoods as the bifhop’s is, and, when they walk abroad, they wear broad brim’d hats over all. Thefe monks are of the order of St. Bafil , and never eat flefh. They change their firft names when they enter into the order. Every prieft that officiates in the church, may marry, and he wears a black gown like the monks. They never cut their hair. November 22. being a holy-day, there was a canopy fupported by four filver flandards, plac’d in the middle of the choir of the Greek church ; and then we o'oferved thefe particulars: When the poor went up and down begging, the prieft Vol. VI. came out at the altar-door, and faid fome- Skippon. thing, and, while the people received the bread, he fiiid fomething again in the fame place. The boys that carried the candles, were, this day, habited in red, having a little white crolson their backs. The prieft had hanging behind his neck the picture of our Saviour, and Greek written about it. Under the canopy flood a desk, and on it a picture, which was kifs’d after the receiving of the bread. The boy read at this defk. November 30. being a feftival dedi¬ cated to St. Andrew , Stiloveteri , which the Greeks ufe, we obferved in their church, a gilded defk, on the middle whereof the picture of St. Andrew was laid. Before it ltood two filver flandards with lighted candles. When the people came in, they bowed, &c. to the altar then went to this picture, and kifs’d St. Andrew's foot. The priefts that officiated, before they put on their veftments, bowed and crofs’d themfelves together before our Saviour and the virgin Mary's pi&ures; then kifs’d them and the picture of St. Andrew on the defk •, after that they habited themfelves. When the archbifhop and monks attend¬ ing him came in, the altar door was im¬ mediately opened, and the curtains drawn. The bifhop crofs’d and bowed himfelf before the altar ; then went to our Savi¬ our and the virgin Mary's pictures, and afterwards to St. Andrew's , the monks fmging in the choir all the while. The archbifhop came then into his feat, and four priefts came out in their veftures, and another prieft in a white fattin habit, over whofe left fhoulder was caft a long and narrow fafeia of red, whereon was wrought the word ctyioi, fix times. In his hand was the cenfing pot. Two little boys in fcarlet habits brought a bundle of veftments, which were put on the bifhop (his ordinary habit being firft taken oft) at his chair, in the fight of all the people, by the four priefts, who firft kifs’d his hand, and when they took up any vefture, they kifs’d it, and then the bifhop kifs’d it before he had it put on. He was habited with feveral things, and over all had a loofe cope, open before ; and about his neck was hung a fquare embroidered piece of cloth, and a gold picture or re¬ lick. All the time he was dreffing, the prieft in white crofs’d him, and fung fome- what, and fometimes the choir fung. The fervice was not much different from that formerly obferved i only thefe particulars we took notice of, viz. that, while the boy read in the middle of the church, the bifhop, who went into the altar-room prefently after he was habited, fat in the door before the altar, the white prieft 6 P holding A Journey thro' Part of the [Italy. SiaproN. holding a filver candleftick with three candles in it, Handing at one fide of the door. This prieft came and flood feveral times before the altar, and fung fome- what. The bifhop’s flaff was given to a little boy, who was in his ufual habit, and flood on one fide, without the altar door, holding up the flaff. The prieft in white went with his book up into the pulpit, which had a candle on each fide, the two boys with their candles, and the boy with the bifhop’s flaff held up be¬ tween them, going before him, and Hand¬ ing on the ground before the pulpit all the time the priefl was reading in the go- fpel. The bifhop at one time came to the altar door, and having a filver candle- flick with three candles, bleH the people. At other times he held the candlefticks within nigh the altar, and three or four times came to the altar door with one candle in a fingle candleHick, and blefs’d the people. The prieH in white Hand¬ ing one time before the altar-door, had his red fafcia tied about his fhoulders in the form of a St. Andrew's crofs. When the cup and bread were brought out, the two boys took their caudles, fol¬ lowing the boy with the bifhop’s flaff, then came the white priefl with the book, and in the middle of the church faid fomewhat towards the people. Next came a prieft with the cup, and he faid fome¬ what in the middle towards the people. After him a third priefl, with the bread over his head, fpeaking alfo in the middle. A fourth prieft came with a faint’s bone, and he laid fomewhat. The fifth prieft brought another relick, and fpake fome¬ what towards the people. Behind all came the boy with his crofs-tapers. The prieft in white went towards the altar-door, where the bifhop flood, and cenfed him, then took the book, and kifs’d it, and laid it on the altar-table. This prieft then went in, and the next prieft flood before, while the bifhop cenfed him, took the cup, kifs’d it, and plac’d it on the table ; then the third prieft, whom the bifhop cenfed, and took the bread, &c. The fourth and fifth priefts were alfo cenfed by the bifhop before the altar-door ; but he took not the relicks from them, they bringing them in themfelves. Every time the bifhop took the book, cup and bread, he gave the cenfing-pot to a fervant. One of the monks in the choir repeated the creed and Lord’s prayer this day. The bifhop, at the conclufion of all, came out, and feated himfelf in his chair, where he gave out the bread as at other times. When he went firft into the altar-room, the choir fung three times about the patri¬ arch of Conftantlnople , three times of this bifhop, and three times dyios 0goj. Many Roman catholick beggars with their beads in their hands, came hither to receive alms, &c. and fome of them, we were told (notwithftanding the Roman priefts forbid them) came to be cured by going into the altar-room, where a Greek priefl lets his foot on their heads, and fays fomewhat. Some of the Greek women wear long black veils. When we returned from Rome to Venice in February i 66 j-, being lent-time, we obferved thefe following particulars one morning in the Greek church, viz. We heard a fermon in Greek. Before the preacher began, he bowed himfelf to the people, and kifs’d the pulpit •, then he prayed a while to himfelf, and after that faid an Ave Mary , with his face towards the crucifix-, then began his fermon, which lafted fomewhat more than an hour. Two or three times he made great paufes, and the people feem’d to applaud him by hawking and fpitting much. While the colledlion was making for the poor, the preacher exhorted the congregation as they do in popifh churches. One Sunday in lent, after fermon was done, the fexton brought a difh into the middle of the choir, and, on each fide, placed a flandard with a lighted taper ; then two boys, habited with white frocks, took two other candles, and making their ufual reverences, went to the north door of the altar, and expedled the prieft, who brought out a filver difh upon his head (a boy with a cenfer perfuming him) which he placed on the desk, and then took out of it a filver crofs, and many nofegays, laying them on the desk ; then the prieft went round about it, cenfing the four fides. This done, the archbifhop came and flood before the desk, a prieft Handing on each hand. After certain prayers and bow¬ ings the bifhop kifs’d the crofs, and re¬ turned again to his feat. The officiating prieft did the like, and then took the crofs and nofegays in his hand, and goes to the middle door, where he flood before it. In the mean time the Ranis benediftus is diflri- buted as formerly. After that the people went to the prieft who held the crofs, which, bowing themfelves, they kifs’d, and the prieft gave every one a nofegay, and they put fome money into the filver bafon held by one that flood by. The Armenians have a fmall, fquare, Armem- low-roof’d room for their church, hung ans. round with gilt leather, where there is an altar drefs’d like the papills, being ador¬ ned with pictures and candles, &c. The altar is in a hollow of the wall, and in the middle of it is a gilded tabernacle, the front whereof hath a crucifix. On the right fide Italy.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 51 fide is our Saviour’s, and on the left the virgin Mary's picture. There arealfothe pictures of St. John , St. Peter and St. Paul. From the middle of the roof hung a brafs branched candleftick, and before the altar three lamps, the nfiddlemoft of which was lighted before they begun fervice. The prieft was an old man, with a long white beard, habited in a flower’d cope, (like the Greeks) girt about. Over his neck v/as put a flower’d tippet, which flood up behind like a high collar. On his head was a fine wrought cap. The deacons or afliftants were drefs’d in a long white habit. Some of them had a red crofs wrought behind, and letters written, and a red crofs below their breafts. The people crofs’d themfelves with holy-water three times. One Sunday morning we obferv’d the manner of their fervice. Firft, we took notice of the prieft in his ordinary wear¬ ing habit, reading and praying at the altar. At one time he kneeled before it, and bowed his body and head nigh the ground for a good while together, pray¬ ing all the time ; then he went into a by¬ room or veftry. After this a deacon lighted the uppcrmoft candle on each fide, and he goes into the veftry •, then two deacons came out finging. Next entred the prieft in his habiliments, holding the cup, which he fet upon the table; then he turned about and blefied the people. The prieft then kifs’d the altar-table, and one of the deacons cenfed him and the people. The prieft drefs’d up the cup by covering it, G?c. He ftept down, and prayed towards the altar with his hands lhut, three dea¬ cons finging. The prieft faid fomewhat, and the deacons anfwered. One of them took a little glafs plate andcrufe, another held a handkerchief, and the prieft wafh’d his hands, the deacons faying fomewhat. The prieft bowed low towards the table, and turned about bowing towards the people, then fpoke fomething in a mourn¬ ful tone, a deacon anfwering. The prieft Hood up and fpoke fomewhat, then turned to the altar, prayed and bowed ; he fpread out his hands, the deacons anfwering. The prieft prayed and kifs’d the table, he uncovered the cup. Two deacons fung, and one gave him the wafer, which he blefs’d or confecrated, and puit it into a plate, then covered the cup. He poured wine into the cup, which he confecrated by crofting, &c. then he laid the plate upon the cup, and over all a red filk cloth. He muttered fomewhat, three dea¬ cons all the while finging. Fie opened on the right fide of it. A fourth deacon now cams in, and the finging flops. The prieft fpake fomewhat, and two deacons anfwe¬ red. The prieft crofs’d his forehead and Skippon. breaft, and turned about blefting the people. The deacons fung again. The prieft laid fomewhat, the deacons anfwer¬ ing and finging again. The prieft mutter’d, crofs’d, and bowed towards the altar. One of the deacons laid a napkin upon the prieft’s hands, then he took the evange- lifts, kifting the book, and laid it on the napkin. The prieft faid fomewhat, and the deacons fung. The prieft elevated the book, and turned about towards the north, fouth, eaft and weft. A deacon cenfed the. people, and they crofs’d themfelves. A deacon kifs’d the book, and then the prieft waved it over his head, the afiift- ants or deacons Hooping ail the while. A deacon took the book from the prieft, kifs’d it, and laid it upon the table, all the deacons ftill finging. The prieft mut¬ ter’d, and then fiid fomewhat aloud. A folding ftool or desk was brought into the middle, upon which the epiflles were laid, and in the book one of the deacons read. After the deacons had fung a while, the deacon read towards the people, hold¬ ing a fmall wax candle in his hand. This done, two deacons held each of them a lighted candle behind the prieft ; all the deacons fung ; the epiftles and ftool desk were taken away •, the prieft blefs’d the people ; a deacon afeended one ftep oil the right fide of the altar, the two dea¬ cons holding their candles on each fide of him, while he read the gofpel, which done, he turned to the altar and prayed, the reft of them muttering fomewhat. One of the deacons candles was put out, and the other was carried about by the other deacon, who cenfed the people, and they crofs’d. themfelves. The deacon that read the gofpel continued praying *, the prieft kifs’d the gofpel, and fiid fomewhat; all the deacons fung. The two next candles on. either fide of the altar were lighted; the prieft faid fomewhat, turned about, and blefs’d the people ; a deacon took off the prieft’s embroidered cap, and laid it upon the altar. Then a third candle on either fide was lighted *, the prieft faid fome¬ what j the people kneeled, and fome kifs’d the ground, the deacons crying Oh •, the prieft blefs’d and kifs’d the table j he cen¬ fed the cup and pictures *, the deacons kneeled. The prieft elevated the cup which was covered, a deacon cenfing behind him. The prieft waved the cup over the table, and then turned round, and waved it to¬ wards every quarter; the people flood up ; the prieft cenfed the cup; water is brought, and he walked his fingers •, the deacons fung all the while ; the prieft uncovered, or folded the cloth to the edge of the cup ; he bleft the people ; the deacons fung ; the 51 6 A Journey thro ’ Part of the U ta ty- SKirroN. the prieft kifs’d the edge of the cup, and Va deacon kifs’d the right fide of the table, and then the right fhoulder of the prieft ; this deacon kifs’d, then another, and lb this Ofculum Pads was communicated to all the people, who kifs’d firfb the right fhoulder, and then the left crofs ways. The prieft blefs’d the people, and he quite covered the cup. The deacons fung, and the prieft faid fomewhat, and blefs’d the people. The deacons fung. The prieft mutter’d, then fpoke aloud. On the right fide of the altar a bell was rung. The prieft crofs’d the cup, and mutter’d fomewhat. The deacons fung. The prieft took off the filk cover, and then the little difh, out of which he took the wafer and kifs’d it; he laid it then in the palm of his left hand, crofting or confecrating it •, he kifs’d the cup, and the people crofs’d and beat their breads ; the prieft covered the cup again, elevated and waved it over the table, he mutter’d fomewhat. The dea¬ cons fung. The prieft blefs’d the people ; he crofs’d, bow’d, and kifs’d the table ; he crofs’d the cup and uncover’d ; he took off the difh, put it on the cup again and crofs’d it; he laid on the filk cover and mutter’d fomewhat. The deacon that read the gofpel kifs’d each fide of the table. The prieft faid fomewhat, and the deacons fung their anfwers ; they fung a great while together, and loud. The prieft mut¬ ter’d. The deacon who read the gofpel kifs’d the left fide of the table. The prieft faid fomewhat, and the deacons anfwer’d linging. The prieft blefs’d the people. Alms-boxes went about *, the prieft turn’d and blefs’d the people. The great candles were lighted. A deacon or prieft in black faid fomewhat, the reft in white anfwering. The prieft fpoke fomewhat, and is cenfed on both fides by a deacon, and then all the people were cenfed. The deacons fung. All the people kneeled j the prieft bleffed them. The deacons kneeled. The prieft and all the people bowed ; he kifs’d the table and crofs’d the cup, took the difh off. The bell was rung again, and the prieft elevated the wafer j he laid down the difh and elevated the cup, the bell being rung a third time i he put the difh on the cup, and the filk cover on that. The prieft crofs’d himfelf and faid fomewhat. The deacons fung. The prieft uncover’d the cup •, he took the wafer and put it a little way into the cup, and there holding it, turned about and fhewed it. All the people rofe up. The prieft fteeped the wafer with his finger in the wine. The deacons fung out of a book. A great wafer was brought by one of the deacons to the deacon in black, who confecrated it ; then the dea¬ con that brought it carried it to one fide of the altar, and broke it in pieces. The prieft held his fingers either in the cup or over it a good while together. The prieft bowed down with his mouth over the cup, and ate fome of the wafer •, then he drank, and fhewed the cup round, holding it juft by the brims *, the remainder of the wafer he fopp’d in the cup •, he bowed to the cup and eat the wafer. The great candles were put out. The bell rung. More wine was poured into the cup, which he drank off, and more wine was put in the laft time, which he fhaked about before he took all off j he wiped his mouth and the infide of the cup very clean with a handkerchief, then laid on the plate, and thereon the cloth he wiped it with, and overall the red filk cover. The prieft’s cap was put on •, he kifs’d the table ; a napkin was put on his hands, and one of the deacons gave him the gofpel (which was covered with filver.) The prieft came down a ftep, and pray’d with his face to the altar. The deacons made a doleful groaning, then they fung. The prieft faid fomewhat, and turn’d about to the people, fome bowed and touch’d the ground, croffing themfeLves. The prieft holding the gofpel, ftood towards the people, who came and put their bene¬ volence into a difh held by a deacon on the left fide of the prieft •, they kifs’d the gofpel, and then the prieft’s hand, and receiv’d a piece of the wafer, confecrated by the deacon in black, of a deacon on the right fide of the prieft. All the can¬ dles were put out, but one on the right fide of the altar. The prieft ftood with his face to the people, and read out of the gofpel ; then he elevated and waved it, holding it always on the napkin. The prieft then fpoke fomewhat, and the laft candle was put out ; he bowed, crofted, turned about, and blefled the people ; he uncovered the cup, and all the people left him alone (landing at the altar table. On each fide of the altar were five can¬ dles, and a very great one, fet gradually one higher than another. Before the fervice began, we obferved one habited in a purple veil, and a cap fet upright like a Capuchin’s. The holy lamb was pidured before on the altar ; the men put their turbants off, and many of them their ftioes, yet fome of them had their caps and turbants on fometimes. There are but two priefts in Venice , who are ordained by their patriarch. They have one patriarch at Conjiantinomic : He muft not be a married man, tho’ widowers are capable of that dignity as well as thofe that never had wives. He lives among a kind of monks they have. S. Gregory , an archbifhop, is their patron. The Italy. Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. Thej Armenian priefts muft marry but once. The priefts in ftrange countries in their habits differ not from lecular perlons, but in their own country they wear black. The ufual habit of the Armenians is after the eaftern fafhion, with a turbant, &c. A prieft is obliged to lie in the church two or three nights before he celebrates mafs. The deacons are feculars, who yet muft have their heads fhaven, and none elfe may affift at mafs or make refponfes, unlefs he hath fome particular command, or a ceremonious inftitution. The feculars in the ‘Turks and Perfians dominions may not walk abroad after it is night, a prifon or feverer punilhment being the penalty ; but the priefts have liberty at all times, and may go with their wives whither they will, there being at this time in the Lazaretto of Venice a prieft’s wife lately come out of the Levant. The Armenians and Grecians have great enmity between one another, and we were told the Turk and Perfian will not permit either Greeks, Georgians , or Arme¬ nians to carry their wives, &c. out of their country, becaufe they want people to breed •, for every male, after 15 years of age pays to the Perfian an annual rate ; a Greek gives about four rials and an half; an Armenian about five rials, but the women are poll-free. The reafon why the Armenian pays more than the Greek is, becaufe they wrote Mahomet’ s life, with fome circumftances that difpleafed the Mahometans ; before this, they affifted the Turks again ft the Greeks. They have mafs on Sundays and holi¬ days, and they eat fifh on Wednefdays and Fridays. They keep Lent very ftriCtly, eating neither flelh nor oil, and drink no wine, feeding only upon herbs, &c. In Armenia, and thofe parts where the Armenians are moft frequent, are Greeks, Surians, Jacobites , Maronites and Georgians, all in friendfhip with the Greeks, but the Armenians. Nigh Aleppo live Jacobites. We were told, that if any one omits communicating the ofculum pads in the mafs, it is a deadly fin ; this kifs begins when the prieft fays the Pax Vobifcum in their language, which is always ufed in their fervice. The prieft, when he turn’d his body, always turned from the right to the left. The Armenian lay people re¬ ceive not the cup. After a lay Armenian hath had three wives, it is unlawful to marry a fourth. In the voyage of father Philippe , a French man, /. 5. c. 5. ’tis faid the pa¬ triarch of the Armenians privately confe- crates a king of that people. At one fignior Bovi’s I bought fome Armenian books, and there I faw many Vol. VI. pictures of Armenian men, and two pic- Skippok. tures of Armenian women, their habit not much differing from the ufual reprefented in printed books concerning the Eajl In¬ dians. Signior Bovi hath printed a good part of the Armenian bible, but fome think it will fcarce ever be finifh’d. We had fome difeourfe with Bovi’s fer- Geor- vant, who was of the Georgian religion, g ians - and born in Georgia. The Armenians and they are different in their religion. They have an hereditary prince or duke, whole territory is fmall, and not rich, but his power is abfolute. The city of his refi- dence is called Padian. Not long fince, the Perfian took a town from them, and afterwards refolved to banilh them thence; which the Georgians underftanding, they made a confpiracy, and on a fudden de- ftroy’d all the Perfians in the city. We vi fi ted one Rofachio, a reputed aftro- Rofachio’* loger, who was a mountebank that fold rarities. medicaments in the piazza of St. Mark. He fhew’d us his collection of rarities.* which were kept in pretty good order. His leffer things were in boxes divided into fmall partitions, with a wire-grate over them, fo that they were all expos’d to view without danger of being mifpla- ced. We obferved the tail of the Pafli- nacapifcis maxillcepifeis Lamice, [an fhark?] ferpens volans, which had a long furrow on either fide, in which were cartilagi¬ nous parts (he laid) when it was alive, that ferved for wings *, a Pyrauftes or falaman- der, fhaped like a lizard, but broader and flatter and bigger than a rat. It had five claws before and behind on every foot: the tail confifted of 20 annuli fpinofi. It is found in Africa. A great chamasleon ; a lion’s head ; a ferpent curioufly and lively reprefented in a carved ftone ; the horns of the Gazella Ind. and of the Rupi - capra or Gazella Alpina, called Gimps ■, a huge Indian Scollop fhell or pelien a Bachurlars head, which is a bird taken in May about Modena : he told us, it hath much kindnefs for a man ; the skeleton of a Marmotto a living Marmotto, which fleeps all winter *, they are taken in the Valteline Alps, &c. He had five forts of parrots in cages, which hung in a cham¬ ber together, warmed by a fire in the middle of the room ; a fine paraquito with a red bill, a very long tail, a black fpot and ring about the neck ; white hol¬ low tubuli, furrow’d on the outfide, which, he faid, are found between Bolor.ia and Florence : he faid they were excellent againft fore throats, hoarfenefs, iAc. if hung about one’s neck. Thefe we found in the fliore of the river Tanner, nieh AJle, in our journey to Genoa. We faw a pretty puppet play, which had changes of feenes •, and the figures 6 were A Journey thro’ Part oj the [ Italy. Skippon. Marmotto. Mint- boufe. Siguier Travagli- Pulvis fu minans. were moved by indifcernable wires from above, and were made to add and dance with much art. We faw here a Marmotto awake -, it is Mus Alp. the head of it was like a rabbet, belly reddilh, other parts of a grifeous colour mix’d with fome red ; the tail black at the end : each fore-foot hath four digits, which he ufes as fquir- rels do ; the hinder feet have five toes apiece ; the head is deprefs’d and black- illh ; it fleeps in the winter under ground upon the Alps -, it eats bread, nuts, &c. this was a female : it is (horter and thicker than a rabbet, and in the upper jaw are two ftrong and long incifores. The mint-houfe is a (lately building behind the Procurators Nuovo. On each fide within the entrance, is a huge marble datue ; a fquare court, where, in one place, we faw the furnace they melt brafs plates in, which are afterwards cut into long narrow pieces by a great pair of feiflars fix’d in the ground. A workman took a good quantity of thofe fquares, and put them into a large frying-pan among glowing charcoal; then the work¬ man took the pan, and fet up one foot on a (lone, and laid the handle over his knee, and ventilated the coals and pieces of brafs together ; and when he perceives the brafs is turn’d into a darkifh blue co¬ lour, he, at feveral times, tofs’d out the coals into another pan on the ground, fo that at lad nothing remains but the brafs; which being thrown out and cool’d, they are deep’d for fome time in oyl, and then one takes a difh-full, and one by one beats them into an orbicular form with his great hammer and anvil. After this they ate beaten with the fame hammer again, which makes them more round ; then they are brought to the dampers, who drike one imprefiion of iron on it, as it lies on another iron imprefiion fix’d like an anvil. In the fame manner we faw Cecchini damp’d. There were many at work, but mod were employ’d in the making of brafs foldi. The values of money are very uncer¬ tain at Venice , the council of ten crying it down one week, and within few weeks after the people raife the value again. When we returned from Rome to Venice, we vifited one Signior Travaglini , a very ingenious perfon, and an admirer of Des Caries. He is a good chymid and natural philofopher. From him we receiv’d infor¬ mation ho w to make a pulvisfulminans,viz. - Poke one pt. of Sal Tart. two of fulphur, and three of nitre, which mu ft be all beaten together in a mortar, and mingled very well. This powder we faw put into a fpoon placed over a flame or hot coals ; and when the fulphur began to melt , and all the powder began to look black, a great clap was given like that of Aurum fulminans. He told us alfo, that Vitrum Antimonii Vitrum colore Rubini preedit urn, is thus made. cdoreRu- Equal parts of common fait and antimony, bini. reduce them to a fine powder, and mingled well, put them into an earthen pot, which muft be placed upon the mouth of a glafs furnace, where a reverberatory flame is made ; there let it (land for three or four days till the antimony be calcined ; let the powder be then wajh'd and freed from the fait: after it is drfd, put it into a cru¬ cible with a little crude antimony and borax , and then melted, it is of a rubin-colour. He fhew’d us the furnaces where cadile The make- foap is boil’d, and this account he gave in z°f us of the Fattura or making of it. caftilefeap. It is made of the beft olive oyl, and a lixivium. The lixivium is made of the afloes of kali and other fea-wreck brought from Spain, and by us in England called Berillia : of this Berillia two thirds, and of the ordi¬ nary fea-wreck one third. Tbefe are ming¬ led and broke into pieces with a hammer, and then they grind them into powder with a ftone, as we ufe to grind apples for cyder ; after that they flft them, and the powder then is mingled with a little flaked lime, and made up into fmall pellets , which they put into leeches or troughs , and there pour water upon them to make a lixivium. The caldrons they boil the foap in are of a huge fize, which have at the bottom a copper vejfel , but above that the fides are built of ftone, very clofe cemented together, and bound with irons , and round about enclofed within a cafe of wood. Intothefe caldrons they put a great quantity of oyl, one third part of the meafure, or more or lefs, as they pleafe ; then they fill up the vejfel with the lixivium, kindle a fire in the fur¬ nace, and fo caufe all to boil continually and as the lye boils away, they ftill fill it up with new lye, till all the oyl be confumed ; and being united with the fait of the lixivi¬ um, is turned into a foap, which rifes con¬ tinually up to the top like a feum, which, by degrees , condenfes there: this fcujn rifes as long as there is any oyl remaining, and fo the cremor of foap grows thicker and thicker. Thofe that are Jkilful can tell by their fmell when the oyl is all boy led away. The lixivium is counted ftrong enough fo long as it will bear an egg. The water they ufe here is taken out of the fea, but it may be as well made of frefh water. To haften the making of the lye, they take fome of the boiling lixivium out of the caldron ; to which purpofe ihere is a pipe that con¬ veys it out of the caldron into a pit or trough, which, with cold water, they pour upon Italy.'] Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. $19 upon the afhes to expedite the feparation of the fait. When the oyl is boil'd all away , then they let all cool ; and taking off the cruft of foap , they give it up, thro ’ a hole in the plancher, into another room , where it is fpread upon a floor , and fmoothed the thicknefs of a brick , with a brafs inftru- ment ufed by one man's hand. After the foap is dried , they cut it into the jhape of long bricks , being nicks in the borders of the beds the foap is fpread in , on purpofe to dir ell the inftruments to cut it into oblong parallelograms ; this done they pare thefe pieces , and free them from impurities which may flick to them as the foap is fpread in the beds •, for they are ftrewed always with lime-duft to hinder the foap from flicking. ‘They ufe a plane to pare with , and the pieces are divided into left with a wire , and then knock the feal on. The reafoa why they mix kelp with the Berillia , is, becaufe the latter alone would make the foap too foft, and the firft too brittle. To colour the foap green, they take the juice of Beta , a good quantity of it, and put it into the caldrons with the lixi¬ vium and oyl. The Germans defire it thus. Perhaps the nitre in the juice may add fome vigour to the foap. The fire is continual, and the liquor al¬ ways boils till the operation be finifh’d. The canons della Donna di Loreto wear purple habits. One day when we were at Venice , a good quantity of Englifh fcarlet cloth was burnt publickly in St. Mark's place, it being unlawful here for Grangers to bring in fome commodities, which they burn afloon as difcover’d. Wine is given to the hofpital, but the casks and boats it is brought in, are burnt. The wines in requeft are, 1. Vin. Roffo & Garbo ; 2. Vinum Creticum five Malvati- cum •, 3. Vinum Hifpanicum 4. Vinum Ce- fenanum. The citizens and noblemens houfes of Venice , have all their doors to the ftreet, open’d by a latch which is lifted up with a wire that is pull’d above in the upper rooms, as we obferv’d at Augsburg in Ger¬ many. The upper rooms are floor’d with a fine plaifter, which is laid very fmooth, and colour’d with a fhining red very neat¬ ly ; and in the middle of the room they ufually lay a long piece of green cloth to walk on. Sanfovinus , in his defcription of the ci¬ ty, fays, there are 70 parifhes in it, every parifli having a church. The compafs of Venice is eight miles. It hath 31 mona- fleries for men, and 28 nunneries. There are more than 450 ftone bridges, between 9 and 10,000 gondali. The grand canal is in length, from the fea cuftom-houfe Skippo.x to St. Clara , 1300 paces. A Venetian Braccia is equal to 2 6f inch, Meafuret. which is to meafure cloth by : the filk Braccia <*i meafure is equal to about 25 inches, or di 2 5j inch. . feta. About the middle of Odfober 1663. there was a great ftorm of thunder and lighten¬ ing one night, and foon after the winter began, which was very Iharp fometimes; and about the beginning of February the weather grew warm again. Some of the Venetian noblemen are fo poor, by reafon of their debaucheries and ill husbandry, that they go to ftrangers lodgings, and beg their charity. At feve- ral times there were two ufed to come to our lodging in their gowns and caps, ask¬ ing our relief with a great deal of humi¬ lity. We were told, that there is a pub- lick purfe to maintain them, and that fome of them do live according to their quality, keeping houfe, a gondola or two, and yet go up and down begging. When any die in a fhop-keeper’s houfe, the fhop windows are fliut up for three or four days, and on the outfide is written the death of the perfon, ex. gr. Per la Morte del Fratello del Padrone , which in Englifh fignifies, For the death of the mailer of the houfe his brother. There is in Venice fometimes a naked man or woman hired for the painters to draw the mufcles of the body by; the naked perfon being expos’d in a publick room provided by the mafter of the aca¬ demy, every painter giving fomewhat. Venice treacle is famous, and is care¬ fully compounded by feveral apothecaries, two or three noblemen, and two or three of the phyficians college, being always prefent. A young Irifh prieft vifited us, who is tutor to a Ion of procurator Mocenigo , one of the richeft noblemen in this republick. All commerce with Amfterdam and Hol¬ land , was, by bando or proclamation, forbidden here, becaufe of the plague. We obferved a great number of ber- Bemade- nacle fhells flicking to the fides of an old falls. Englifh veflfel which lay here at this time. Thefe bernacles we afterwards obferved flicking to the back of a tortoife we took between Malta and Sicily, and faw them in the fifh-market at Rome. The Venetian noblemen, in the winter, have their gowns furr’d •, and one fide be¬ fore is lined with the white or belly of a Mufcovy fquirrel, and the other fide with the back or grey of the fur ; which they changed. In the firft part of the winter they folded the white over the grey, and after Cbriftmas the other. They girt in cold weather their gowns about with a black 520 Skippon. Venetian women. Venetian cuftoms. A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy. black leather girdle fringed, having filver buckles before. The place where they walk in the piazza, is call’d tl Broglio. All the young women (except the or¬ dinary common whores) are clofe kept within by their jealous husbands and pa¬ rents: and the gentlewomen, when they go abroad, as to mafs, &c. are attended by old women, whoobferve their behavi¬ our ; the old woman being one of the firft things the husband provides after he is marry’d : and one old woman will under¬ take the care of three or four gentlewo¬ men, getting a good living by this means •, and fometimes they prove bauds under¬ hand. Few women walk the ftreets be- fidestheold bawds, (Ac. who wear a black fcarf or white linen over their heads and fhoulders. Thole of better quality have, inftead of a black fcarf, a white one, which they put over head and fhoulders in the manner of a veil, and fhew but little of their faces abroad in the ftreets. Moft of the noblemens daughters are put into nunneries after they are come to fome age, where they live till they are marry’d out. The fuitors fcarce ever fee them till the wedding day, all the bufinefs be¬ ing tranfadted by the parents and the me¬ diation of an old woman, fj fc. The greateft matches are folemnized with balls and open houfe-keeping for three days for all comers, and then the gentlewomen meet and play at cards together by themfelves. No women but fuch as are counted cour- til'ans look out of their windows. The Venetian women are generally of a low fta- ture. Thofe that are fattifh, and but indif¬ ferently handfome, are reputed beauties. The inhabitants o [Venice cloath them¬ felves very warm in the winter. The fhop-keepers wear gowns, and moft of the women have loofe coats lined with fur; and fome of the men and women have their fhoes lined with cloth, (Ac. The hofteffes in inns, when they go up and down their houfes in the night, carry a little iron lamp in their hands, which is like the old Roman ones. The common fort of people, as porters, eondaliers, (Ac. are infolent exadtors of ftrangers, if they be not agreed withal before you hire them. The generality are well habited ; and every one of the loweft quality (except beggars) wear a gold ring or two, and the women have alfo bracelets, (Ac. The beggars that are lame, (Ac. lie on bridges at church-doors, &c. and beg for S. Antony’s, for S. Antony of Padua’s fake, (Ac. Moft tradefinen make no confcience of asking at lead twice as much as they in¬ tend to take, tho’, at firft, they will re¬ peat variety of oaths, that they cannot afford the commodity cheaper : yet they have this good quality •, if they give you bad money, they will change it four or five days after. Their fhop figns are taken down every night. They write under the fign what it is; and fome of the figns are abfurd, as the two Jefus’s, the two Sc. Peter’s, 8c c. The Venetians (as all Italians do) fwear frequently, per Dio , per Dio fanto , per Diana , Corpo di Chrifto , per Cbriflo , Cof- petto di Dio , Cofpetto di Diana , &c. Some will make a crofs, and then fay, per quefla Croce. Others will fay, per Catzo di Dio , per Puttano di Dio. When they fcornfully admire any thing, they fay Catzo , Heibo : and if they fee any thing very ftrange, they will fometimes crofs themfelves. The Venetians are not counted by the higheft fons of the church, very good catholicks, and therefore they fay Veneti- ani mezo Chriftiani , i. e. Venetians are half chriftians. The Italians roaft their meat over the Italian cu- coals, and boil their meat for the moft^’ part in pipkins. They ftrew fcraped cheefe on moft of their difhes, and eat much garlick, which they put into moft of their iawces. Vide Mr. Ray’s obfervations. When three perfons walk together, that every one may have the middle by turns, they walk thus, ABC , from one end of the walk to the other. B fteps back to the left before A , who coming behind, fteps into the middle ; then A fteps back to the right before C, who coming be¬ hind, fteps into the middle. There is this ufual Latin rhyme on the monks, Monachorum Stomachi Pocula Baccki Vos eftis , Deus ejl Teft is , Populi P eftis. The Italians have a fport which they call Gioco Gioco d’amore (digitorum lufus feu micatio) ^’ amorc - which is thus; two (land together with their hands clutch’d, and both of them, juft at the fame time, jerk out their hands, and llretch out what number of fingers they pleafe, each of the players naming a number; and he that chances to name the number of fingers thrown out by both parties, wins. Ex.gr. if one throws out three, and the other two, and one fays five, he wins; but if both hit on the fame number, and fay five, neither win. A game or fet is to win the firft five, ten, (Ac. All the art is in fpeaking the num¬ ber, jerking out the hand, and ftretching out the fingers in the fame inftant of time ; for if they fhould not do fo, he that can fee the others finger firft ftretched out, might always win. Three, four, or more may Italy,'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. play together ; but ufually there are but two, cho’ many will very attentively look on. This was a fport among the old Ro¬ mans for Cicero , in his third book of offices, page 129, fpeaks of a common proverb ; Cum enim fidem alicujus, bonita- temqy laud ant, dignum ej]e dicunt , quicumin tenebris Alices (i. e. Alices digit is) i. e. Such a one is a very honeft man, you may truft him. Their clocks here have their dials mark¬ ed not as ours, but are figur’d from one to 24, and they count from fix of the clock at night, till fix in the evening ; therefore if it be our leven at night, they call it one hour of the night, and fo the clock Unices, and fo it is for the day. The firft foundation of St. Mark was laid on the firft of March 421. and there¬ fore they begin the year on that day, fays Leti. Amy We faw at Venice a very little man, hnle man. t ] iree quarters of a braccia high ; his name was Daniel Sack , aged 46 years, born at Japan. His voice was manly : he had a beard and face like a man : his hands and fingers were monftrous, having fhort pads and fingers without any bones in them : his feet and toes were not very unlike his hands: he flood with his legs acrofs, and ate tobacco, &c. His father was a handful higher, and lived at this time in Genoa -, and his mother came of a fmall generation which hath continued for many ages in Japan. All that come from Turk y or any in¬ fected places, are fhut up in the lazaretto (a place where all neceffaries and conve- niencies are provided J for 40 days •, but if any of the company fhould fall fickin that time, they are confin’d fomj-odays longer. From Venice to London the merchant pays for freight ufually about 4 /. 10 Jh. flerling every ton. Signior Pietro Paolo Campana was my merchant. Jo. Baptijl. Ferro , an apothecary of Venice , is very well skill’d in plants, and hath fair books of dry’d plants, and one book with plants drawn rarely well with a pen. The ground in Italy (as we obferved) did not chop or open with chinks in the heat of fummer, as it does in England. The art of painting upon glafs at Venice. 1. To make the Carnation colour \ take one part of iron duft that is beaten off by fmiths, one part of bloodltone, half a part of gum arabick, and as much jet as the weight of all together i grind all upon a copper-plate, fprinkling water upon them (or mixing water with themj then mingle them with water to the thicknefs Vol. VI. of milk, and fet them in the fun for two Nippon. or three days till they fettle ; pour off het top, throw away the dregs at the bot¬ tom, and let the reft dry in the fun. 2. To make another Carnation colour take the fame iron duff, one part, twice as much jet, and one part of the filver ftone letters are dry’d withal, as much red chalk as the weight of all together \ grind and dry them as before. 3. Yellow • take one part of burnt filver- lace, twice as much antimony, and four times as much brimftone ; put all in a crucible, and let the brimffone be burnt away •, then grind and dry as before. Memorandum , to put nine times as much yellow ochre and grind, &c. 4. Grey colour ; take one part of iron duft, as much jet, then grind £s?u. an ftone blue ?) grind them in water, G?c. 11. Blue-, take one part of ftrow-blue, one third regie marine, i. e. mollie, which goldfmiths enamel blue with, grind in water, &V. Note, To work the grey or ground co¬ lour, take of the fame grey colour about the bignefs of a fmall nut, grind it two hours upon a copper-plate ■, take alio as much gum arabick as the bignefs of a pea, grind it and keep it in a copper difh ; mingle the fame quantity of gum in wa¬ ter, and pour it upon it -, and if in fum¬ mer (to keep it from drying, and to make it flick the better to the glafsj pour a drop or two of ftale -, with this draw the out-lines upon glals, and let it dry a day or two ; then with a great foft pencil or brufli lay another ground very fmooth of the fame grey then let it dry as before, 6 R and 522 SKiproN. and lay the fame colour thicker the third '■''“V"'-' time, where you would have fhades •, then with a pen without a flit, fcratcn away the ground colour (where you would heighten the colour) to the bare glafs: let the glafs be very dry, and lay on the carnations for the face, hands, &c. then the red colours, if there be need of any, and then the whites for linen, fattin, Gfc. then blue, green, and purple •, and lalt of all the yellow up¬ on the bare glafs, on the wrong fide of it. Note, Al! the colours are laid on in gum water. When this is done, lay a floor of unburnt lime in an oven i upon that lay clear glafs a finger’s diftance from the fides of the oven, or elfe it will break •, upon the clear glafs lay the painted glafs, with the coloured fide upwards ; upon that lay a floor of unburnt lime very finely pow¬ der’d ; upon which, if you have more painted glafs, lay another floor, with the colours downwards, and, as near as you can, the fame colours one above another, green over green, &c. and lo one floor of glafs and another of lime, &c. Over the uppermoft floor lay four or five panes of feveral colours, as green, red, fsV. fome alfo at the bottom under all, and fome above all, and fome in the middle between the floors. Thefe are to betaken out with a pair of tongs to fee whether the glafs be burnt enough •, for if they look clear and tranfparent, they may all be taken out; but as long as they appear dark and not pellucid, you mull let them lie in ftill: the mouth of the furnace mull be Hop’d with thin tiles, leaving a little hole in the middle, and at every corner, to put in charcoal. When the oven has been heated three or four hours with char¬ coal, put in beech wood, very well dry’d, for eight or nine hours, or till the glafs be burnt enough. Let the furnace or oven cool for three or four days before you take out the glafs; for if it be not through¬ ly cool, the glafs will break i and after it is cool’d and taken out, rub off the yel¬ low on the back-fide with a hard brufh, there being always enough of the tinfture drunk in by the glafs. The lime floors muft be half a finger thick, and mull al¬ ways be fpread fo that the glafs may be in a plain. The pan in the furnace muft be two feet long, one foot and an half broad, half a foot deep, the fides of the pan about a finger thick. This pan muft be fet upon an iron grate in a greater furnace, fo that there may be a hand’s-breadth diftance quite round the fides, and a hand’s-breadth above ; but underneath where the fire is to be put, two hands-breadth : the thick- nefs of the fides muft be half a brick. Both the trough or pan and the furnace muft [Italy. be made of the beft earth to endure the fire. The furnace is left quite open at top ■, and at equal diftances are laid three iron bars or plates crofs-ways, which are three fingers broad. Upon thefe muft be laid thin tiles made of tne fame earth, in number eight, four in a row on either fide, made fo, that every tile may reft upon half of two of the bars, and in the middle there muft be a hole left, and one at each corner. By flopping or opening thefe five holes the fire may be increafeci or abated •, the chinks between the tiles muft be flopp’d with lime mingled with hair, or any good cement. At the front of the furnace are two holes, the lower- moft, under the grate (upon which the trough Hands) to put in fire at •, the up- permoft above the grate, thro’ which they take out the panes of glafs, to fee whether the painted glafs be enough. Thefe muft both have Hoppers fitted for them to take out and put in, asinchymical furnaces. Thurfday, Decemb. 3. About an hour before day we entred the Padua bark, a large boat covered like our barges, and went from the middle of the grand canal, pafs’d by Santa Chiara and the Giudecha y then came by a pair of gallows in the wa¬ ter, whereon hung the quarters of Turkijh pirates ; after this we went by St. George ... a monaftery in a little ifland ; and a good diftance off, on our left hand, faw the ifland call’d St. Angelo , where gun¬ powder is made for the republick o tVenice ; then came into the mouth of a river be¬ tween marfhes; and at five miles diftance from the city, pafs’d by Fufina , a fmall village on our right hand, where the boat wasdifmifs’d which towed our bark, every one giving four foldi. Here came out a long-boat with 10 or 12 oars, who pre- fently boarded us, and fearched all trunks, portmanteau’s, &c. One gentleman had all his ribband taken away, which he had bought to trim a new fuit with, becaufe it was whole in the piece. At this place we pafs’d a foftegno or fluice, after this sluice. manner \ The ftream of the river ran from A to B i and fuppofing the boat coming down the ftream, it flays at A till the water of C is of the fame level, which is done by opening little fluices or portelli i i, in the two A Journey thro' Part of the Italy. ) Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 523 two valvae, which make an obtuf'e angle againft the ftream. When the fuperficies of the water A and C is even, then the valvae are drawn open by chains G G, tvhich are wound up the turnftiles H II ; then the boat enters, and the valvce are fhut again. After this a portello at the gate D is open’d, and the water of C falls by degrees to the level of B •, then the gate is drawn open by the chain E , and wound up the turnftile F, for the boat to pafs down ftream. Five miles from this fluice we came by Oviago, a village on the right hand, and pafs’d thro’ a third fluice (having pals’d the fecond foon after that which is de- fcrib’d) we came here into the Brent, a large river, which hath a long wooden bridge over it. The ftream of the river is divided at this place into two currents, and makes a fmall ifland, on one fide whereof is a row of mills driven by the ftream. We pafs’d a fourth lluice five miles before we reach’d Padua , and left the main river on the right hand, entring aftraight cut, which lafted to the walls of that city. At the fourth fluice there is a brick bridge of two large arches over the river Brent , and a bridge of one arch over the fluice. At every fluice is an infcrip- tion fee up by the republick, fignifying the feveral rates. Between Fufina and the fourth fluice are many pretty villse or country houfes feated by the water-fide, that belong to Venetian noblemen. One about the middle of the way is large and handfome, which is D. Valerius his fon. From the fourth fluice to Padua there is no building worth the no¬ tice. Two miles before we arriv’d at Pa¬ dua ., many porters got into our boat, being importunate to carry our luggage ; and landing at the portello gate, where there is a fair afeent by ftone fteps, a great number of rude porters crowded into the bark, for to be employ’d in carrying the Padua. paflengers things. During our ftay in this city we obferv’d ■S#. Ant ho- tfogfe particulars following. Firft we went church. to St. Anthony’s church, call’d il Santo, which is a Fair and large building within. On the north fide that faint’s body is en- fhrined in a chapel adorned with admi¬ rable brafs fculpture, exprefling the moft notable circumftances of St. Anthony’ slife: the figures of men and women are lively carved. The workmen were 'Tullius Lom- bardus and Joan. Sanfovinus. Devout people go behind the altar, and kifs the marble that contains the faint’s body, which, they fay, always gives a fweet fmell, that more probably is caufed by perfumes the monks craftily will have the people believe to be the odour of a deadcarcafs. A Venetian nobleman, upon Skippon - his recovery from a ficknefs, gave to this altar a pitfture of mafly filver. Within this fhrine is inferib’d. Anno Chrifti Natalibus mdxxii. Petite et ac- cipietis. Onerati ejlis et ego reficiam vos. Venitead me ovines qid laboratis. There is a marble afeent to the choir,and a curious carv’d pair of brafs gates between a marble rail. This was given by a friar, and the value of it is efteem’d at 2500 crowns. In the roof of the church are fix cupole. Behind the choir is a walk, and many chapels round about. In the cha¬ pel at the eaft end is a ftone thus inferib’d to Andreas Argolus , a mathematician. D. O. M. 1. Andreas Argolus ex S. C. Eques D. Marci el in Patav. Gymn. P. Mathefeos Profef- for. pro familia fua inter Mar [os jamdu- dum clarijfima, non magis quam pro Rep. Aftr onomic a imprebis pens laboribus per- [unclus anitnum ester nee quieti advortens. VS. LM. cetatis anno LxxvuRed. Mun- di CIOIOCXLVIII. Nobilitus, virtue, proles, abfentia, honorq ; Auxit non patriam fujlulit invidiam Ajlrorum motus omnes arcanaq ; prompftt Dexter a. Mens hceret qui movet aft r a Deo. Prcefides Nofocomii D. Francifco dicati ad quod cum Furchettce genti hcer edit ate jus facelli hujus pervenit Viro prceftantijftmo ac celeberrimo locum monumenti fummo ajfenfu concejjerunt. Anno Sal. mdcxlviii Kal . Junii. There are thefe inscriptions following on the tombs of Sylvaticus, Sala, and VeJ- lingius , in this church. 2. Perenni famce Jo. Bapt. Sylvatici Pat. Patricii Eq. e Confultor. Primarii I. Pont. Interpretis, cujus inprimis muneribusfacun- diam, fidem, conjilium patria femper fuf- pexit , Academic fcecundum acumen plena Gymnaf. Venerata eft, quern certatim Prin- cipes ob magnum rerum itfum amplis pr* narrower and fhorter than bVeJlminjlerhzW. one - It hath a ftone pair of ftairs up to it. At the upper end is an infeription to Livy and Speronius , both which are mentioned in Schottus. Here is alfo eredled a marble effigies of a lady, with this following in¬ feription, Venerarare pudicitiam Simulachrum et Vidli- mam, Lucretiam de Dondis ab horologia Pii VEnex de Obizzonibus Orciani Mar- chionis Uxorem. Hxc inter noclis tenebras maritales ajjerens tie das, furiales recentes Tarquinii faces cajlo cruore extinxit. Sicq ; Romanam Lucretiam intemerati tori gloria vicit , tanUe fuce Heroines Generofis multi¬ bus hanc dicavit aram Civitas Patavina decreto die xxxi Decembris Anni mdclxi. The ftory of this lady’s death was thus related to us; That about midnight fire was affaulted and ftab’d by one that would have violated her chaftity ; and fhe cry¬ ing out, her fon overheard her •, and coming to her chamber-door, was thruft back by a bloody hand, and ftruck over the face. The murtherer prefently efcap’d, and enquiry was made after him. The magiftrates imprifoned her husband upon fufpicion, but he cleared himfelfby proving his abfence from Padua at the fame time. A nobleman of Padua was alfo feverely examined and rack’d, but he did likewile acquit himfelf. Notwith- ftanding, the fore-mentioned fon imagin¬ ing him to be the author of the murder, procur’d fome Bravi , who were difguis’d in ruftical habits, and they ffiot him dead as he was coming out of the Santo one morn- Italy .] Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. morning from mafs. Some of the Pa¬ dua gentleman’s company let fly immedi¬ ately, and kill’d two of the Bravi. The reft halted away with the marquis’s fon to the neareft gate, where they had horfes ready. The marquis’s fon was publifh’d a banditto for this fad. He went after¬ wards to Rome , whence he was alio ba- nifb’d for giving a cuff on the ear to one of the pope’s court. Many in Padua think the marquis him- felf, being jealous, was the caufe of his wife’s death ; but to the belt of our en¬ quiry little fatisfadion could be given. Courts of judicature are kept in this hall, which is well floored with a plaifter. On each fide of it is a portico with marble pillars and rails of a red colour, and below on each fide is another portico. Over four doors here are the marble pidures of four famous men, and infcriptions under them printed in Schottus. 1. Panins the jurift holding a book, whereon is written, Locus retie jus appel¬ lation 2. Albert us ^ havinga book thus infcrib’d, Beati qui cujlodiunt judicium , et faciunt ju- Jlitiam in omni tempore. Over this figure is a pidure of the Tri¬ nity, being here blafphemoufly repre- fented by an old man with three faces and three beards. 3. Livy, with a book wherein is written. Parvus ignis magnum fccpe excitavit incendium. 4. Apponus, Podefta's Adjoyning to this hall is the podefta’s faUce. palace, where, in one room, are many infcriptions fet up by the univerfity in honour to the feveral podefta’s. I tranfcrib’d that which was made for the laft, viz. Bernardo Donato Pratari optima fafcibus domi forifq-, confpicuo , fanguine magno , Virtutemaximo \ Quifumma vigilantia,pie- tate ac prudentia populo annonam , gym- nafio facem , urbi be alii at cm , omnium fupra f.dem pr and runs through part of this city, and fo does one branch of the Brent. The Bachilio hath its water kept up by a fluice within the town. A mile every way round there is no en- clofure, nor trees fuffered to be planted, that no enemy might find fhelter, (Ac. This circumjacent plain is ufually fowed with corn, and is called La Guajla , i. e. the wafte. From the walls is a full profpeblof the Alps , and the Euganean hills. The inner (called Antenor's) wall is high built, and thick. One of the city gates is called Porta Liviana. Magazine. Cajlello di Munitione was built by Ez- zelino the Tyrant it hath a large cloifter’d court. It is a cuftom here, that thofe who have Cuftoms. the wall on their right hands in the ftreets may keep it, unlefs they will pafs a com¬ pliment on any they meet. If drink be brought into a friend’s houfe, the vifitor drinks firft •, and the ftranger goes firff up flairs, into the houfe, (Ac. and is left by the owner laft in the houfe. At this place and Venice if any one buys meat in the market, there are boys always attending with baskets, being ready to carry what you will deliver to them to your lodging, which they will very faith¬ fully do for the reward of two or three foldi. The little flools ufed in thefe parts have a narrow flit on the middle of the top, to thrufl tneir fingers in at, and fo lift them from one place to another. If any confeffor enjoins too fevere a pe¬ nance, the penitent here prefently takes his leave, and finds out another confeflbr that may be more favourable. The Padua gentlemen feem not very devout at the mafs, or other fervice, dif- courfing and laughing with one another, and when the hoft is elevated many of them will only bow their bodies and knees * a little ; whereas in other popifh places they fall down then on their knees, beat their breafls, ufe fighings, (Ac. If there be ladies at church the gentlemen attend upon them to their coaches, without fpeak- ing one word. The bread here is much efleem’d, ac¬ cording to that proverb Pan Padoano, Vin Vicentino , Trippe Tre- vifane , (A Putana Venetiana. No brown bread is permitted to be fold publickly. The territory of Padua is rich, whence arifes this faying ; Bononia la grafja , ma Padoa la paffa, (A Venetia la guajla. Thefe fayings are ufed here ; JuJlitia Presbyter or um, perfecutio Monacho- rum , fcabies Hebreorutn , peccavi Domine , miferere mei. A furore Ruflicorum , a rumore canum (A d natura Feem. 40''^ Libera , (Ac. We obferv’d once many hofpital wenches in yellow veils, going two and two toge¬ ther, having a crucifix carried before ’em, and they fung as they went in the ftreets. The duke of Norfolk is kept here in a fair palace that belongs to Cornarus , a Ve¬ netian nobleman. The duke is a proper man. Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, * man, of good proportions, &c. but being much diftemper’d in his head, he is fhut up in a ground chamber, without glafs windows, and the door lock’d upon him : We had fome difcourfe with him, but found him then uncapable to fpeak any good fenfe: His dinner and other meals are brought to him, but he never eats in the prefence of any : His fervants force him to bed every night, and he hath often new cloaths, which he burns or tatters out prefently ; he was at this time very meanly habited : He hath five or fix Englijh fer¬ vants : His overfeer or Reward is a Bref- cian ; his name is Carlo , and he fpeaks Englijh well. We were in Chrijlmas time invited to dinner, with the reft of the Englijh , to the duke of Norfolk's houfe. We were civilly treated by Dr. Murry , a Scotchman , at his creation-dinner, when he took the degree of dodlor. We vifited Dr. Cadened , a Scotchman , profeffor of logick in this univerfity : He formerly liv’d in Vicenza , and there taught gentlemens fons, till the Jefuitscame and fet up fchool. The Englijh that were in Padua while we were there, were Dr. Stokeham , Dr. Willughby , and Mr. Swale. White earthen ware is made in this city of clay brought from Vicenza. Apona. We hired horfes one day for four livres a horfe, and rode five miles to Abano or Apona , a fmall village, where we view’d Baths, &c. the baths, which have very plentiful fprings that rife out of a rocky hillock, and there make feveral channels, the brinks whereof are crufled very hard by a fait or llony matter the water is impregnated with, and a pure white fait fhoots out of the banks where the water runs. The water is fo hot that the-country people bring their hogs hither to fcald off the hair. Sheep will drink of it where it is cooler, and will lick the fait. One of the fprings drives an overfhot mill, where we obferv’d the wheel cover’d with a hard dark cruft or ftone, which they are forced to beat off with a mattock, at leaft every month : At this mill there is none of the fore- mention’d fait. The bottom of the chan¬ nels hath no ftony fubftance; the water looks greenifh. Leaves and pieces of wood are crufted over with ftone. At the mill, befides the ftream which drives the top of the wheel, there is another channel of water, which (if there be occafion) is let out upon the fide of the wheel. The fprings are within two or three foot of one another ; one is fo temperate that a man may indure his hand in it for fome time. Towards the bottom of the hill is a publick large bath, and juft, by are four or five baths in houfes, like thofe at Baden and Aken. The water here differs Skippon in tafte from thofe in the foremention’d places. Thefe baths are ufed by fuch as have the breach pox, Lfc. A mile off is a fountain, called Fonte della Madonna , which is not fo hot as thele at Apona , but is fold in apothecaries fhops for to drink. About half a mile off are the Euganean hills, on one of which is a Benediftine cloifter. As we returned to Padua we took no¬ tice of a handfome palace on the left hand, and obferv’d the country peoples houfes and barns to have long Portici before them. The ground is well tilled and planted with rows of trees, and vines twiftmg about them. About the beginning of January they prune their vines. A little before we enter’d the city we palTed over a branch of the river Bacbi- Hone , and obferv’d the courfe of its ftream from A to B. A B is the river, C B is a branch that runs under the walls, C D is the other branch which turns backward, E was the bridge we paffed over, a quarter of a mile from Padua. We hired horfes (ten livres a horfe) and went four miles bad way to a village call’d II Ponte , from a bridge over a pleafant ftream ; then rode on a firm caufeway, by two great mills, and feveral fmall country houfes belonging to gentlemen, and feven miles from Padua came to Pol- Polmara. verara , a village where we obferv’d a fort of poultry mention’d in Schottus to be Poultry. the biggeft in Italy , &c. yet they are fhort of his defcription, tho’ fomewhat bigger than the common fort of cocks and hens : they are never of any colour but black, and have great tufts of feathers on their heads, and the like under their lower mandible, and both hens and cocks have horned combs •, whence they are vulgarly, and perhaps corruply, called Galline dejchiati , i. e. crijlati. The country people feem to be poor, but are very civil to ftrangers, being ready in their anfwers, when they are afked the way to any place, &c. They drink wine mix’d with a greater quantity of water. Jan. 6. We went in the Padua bark 1663-4- to Venice , and efcaped the fearchers this time. Feb. 1. Two hours before night we entered the Barca di Padua , and in the Lagune S 3 6 Skippox. Lagune were flopp’d a while by the N *''~ v “ Sw ' fearchers, who felt every one’s pocket, open’d chefts, &c. We were all night in the boat, and the company contributing, we bought faggots and made a fire in the middle, fo entertained ourfelves with dif- courfe of two merry monks, one a Be¬ nedictine, and the other a Francifcan mi- p.oris obferv. At fun-rifing the 2d of Feb. we arriv’d at Padua , and there imme¬ diately hired a fmall narrow coach, drawn by three horfes abreaft, paying four livres apiece to Vicenza. We went out at the gate called Sava- r.orola , and pafs’d over the river Brent , and at nine miles diftance came to our baiting place at Sacco, a village : Near it are forne neat gentlemens houfes,and on the left hand faw an old caftle on a hill call’d Monte Calfo. After that we travelled a pretty ftrait caufeway, having feveral fmall palaces on each fide, and we obferv’d the country well cultivated, as in Friuli, about Frevifo and Polverara, &c. Nine miles Vicenza, from Socco we entered Vicenza : A little before we arrived there we went over the Fefena, a fmall river. This city is pleafantly fituated, partly on a plain, and partly on a rifing ground *, it is indifferently walled with brick, and is much lefs than Padua : In many places are Portici before the houfes •, the ftreets are badly paved : Here are fome flately palaces, among which that of count Triffini is moft noted. Juft without the walls are vineyards, which afford very delicious red wines, known by their epithets Dolce & Piccante, fold for 12 foldi an ingefteria ; a white and fweet wine and a four wine fold here. Many nobility in this place, fo that it is a proverb ; Ffuanti ha Venetia de Ponti & Gondalieri , Fanti ha Vicenza de Conti & Cavalieri. The river Bachilione runs thro’ this city, over it is a handfome ftone bridge, called Ponte di S. Michael. Theatrum We faw the Fh eat rum Olympicum , which olympi- is fpacious: The fpedtators have 14 feats, (like thofe in the pit of our play-houfes) covered with boards: The roof is well painted with birds, clouds, &c. The Orcheftra is large, where the gentlemen and ladies fit in chairs. The ftage is cu- rioufly contriv’d into five perfpe< 5 tives, built of and reprefenting houfes, There the mufick plays, and the aCtors come out into the pit, where they dance and aft: The front of the ftage is adorn’d with ftatues, pillars, &c. In two out-rooms were infcriptions and gentlemens arms •, one infcription I tran- lcribed, viz. [Italy. Petro Paulo Bijfario Comiti Commendatorio cujus in Orando facundiam , adverfa- rius exhorruit , Princeps exaudivit, fyrenes Adriatici vel miraculum fufpexere et Al- fonfo Comiti de Lufchis pro vigefima ftfci mulct arum impetranda Legatis fuis Olym- picorum Academici pofuit Anno Domini MDCXL. Schottus hath more infcriptions. In one room hung the names of thofe belonging to this academy, viz. Nomi delli Ill mi Sig r! Academici Olympici. Protettore , Ill no et Reverend " 0 Monfignor Giufeppo Giuriano Vefcovo di Vicenza Duca , Marq. et Conte. Principe. D. Gabriel Porto. Configlieri. D. Carlo Fortezza. D. Alberto San Giovanni Dr. D. Guido Feramofca. Dr. D. Andrea Quinto. Confervator delle legge. D. Vincentio Negri Dr. et Kr. Contradicente. D. Clemente Thiene. -j-, Padri. D. Aloife Valle Dr. et Kr. D. L^lio Gualdo. Kr. Cenfori. D. Francefco Bollis Dr. +. D. Alfonfo Lofco. D. Leonard. Valmarana. D. Alvife Magre. Dr. Confervatori delle robbe. D. Franc. Deltofo. D. Scipion Biffari. Prefidenti alia Mufica. D. Giulio Capra. D. Oftilio Biffari. Prefidenti al Theatro. D. Bonifacio Pogliana. D. Fabio Piovene. Prefidenti all’exattion del danaro. D. Vincentio Garzadoro. D. Francefco Barbarano. A journey thro' Part of the Italy. J Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, ^France. 537 Qjt. Whether thefe following be only Academici without offices ? D. Lodov. Aleardi. D. Teodoro Triffini. D. Girolamo Garzadoro. D. Fra. Piovene. Dr. D. Ctefur Ragana. D. Marcello Garzadoro. D. Lud. Chieragatto. D. Oralio Sale. D. Lodov. Porto. D. Antonio Piovene. Dr. N. V. D. Enrico Biffin. Monaco Camadiocfi D. Odvardo Deltofo Monaco, D. Marco Ant. Valmarana. D. Aleflandro Godi. D. Girol. Meglioranza. D. Camillo Barbarana. D. Fabio Scrorfa. D. Sylvio Conti Monaco. D. Eflor Delbue. D. Jacomo Barbarana. D. Ludov. Triflino. D. Vittorio Porto. D. Gulielmo Ghellini. D. Quintio. Saraceni. D. Marco Anton. Chiragatto. D. Aleflandro Thiene. Dr. D. Giovanni Bapt. Gualdo. D. Barthol. Capodilifla. D. Ermens Coloredo. D. Girol. Pompeio. D. Giufeppo Porto Leonidas. D. Barthol. Squarci Dr. D. Bernardino Porto. D. Giacomo Biflfari. Dr. D. Eranc. Sorio. D. Scipione Velio. D. Franc. Garzadoro. D. Guido Thiene. D. Giulio Merzari. D. iEnea Arnaldi. D. Juflino Trento. D. Jacomo Zachia Dominico, D. Fra. Scroffa. D. Alf. Capra. D. Paulo iEmyl. Saraceni. D. Nic. Gualdo Kr. Priorato. D. Annib. Thiene. D. Paulo Bennafliiti. D. Anton. Maria Ragona Dr. D. Mich. Angelo Angelico Dr. D. Gio. Bapt. Fraconzano. D. Vine. Capra. D. Pomp. Jufliniano. D. Gio. Pagiello Dr. D. Oratio Deltofo. D. Nic. Pogliano. D. Julio. Porto. D. Ant. Cividale Dr. D. Gafparo Moncanaro Academico et Secret. Vol. VI. The prince of the academy is chofen Skippon. every year by ballot, by the Academici. None are admitted but noblemen of this city, who meet when the prince calls them together. They have feveral ex- ercifes, as making of lpeeches, dancing, &c. Count Valmarana *s garden is very no¬ ble and pleafant, having a river that paffes through it; a labyrinth of myrtle hedges : One fide of the garden is planted with feveral forts of oranges and lemons, which in the winter time are fliut up un¬ der a penthoufe that hath doors j they open in fun-fhine and favourable weather *, they have charcoal fire in feveral places of the penthoufe, and all the chinks are flopp’d with tow, to lecure the trees from the Injury of cold. The garden is water’d by a well, which hath a copper bucket B, that is pulled up between two flrong wires e d, e d, by a rope that runs on the pulley a ; when the bucket is at the top, two irons i z, fland out, which turn the water out, and pour it into the trough zzz, whence it is conveyed into fe¬ veral channels. In a pleafure room water is made to play out of the floor in a furprizing man¬ ner. In the wall here are three handfome flatues, with thefe inferiptions, 1. Altorem me Bacche tnum , ne ludis et unquam Nil tnihi amabilius contigit hifee dolis. 2. Pro vino invifa Bacchus fupraluet unda , Ne credas oculis vina Falerna bibo . 3. Hcec m'thi pur a mero longe prcejlantior unda Nuge hcec fub fpecie dulcia mufia latent. On the outfide of this houfe is written, Si te Calores aut Myrtei Mceatldri Errores fortajje lajfarunt , fuccede huic Umbrce ubi te Dii ipfi Libentes et Lcetabundi ex¬ cipient Bacchus , Silenus , Pan nit id a 6 X gelida 53 8 Skipi-oh. gelida ac dulci aqua refcient immo et vino Ji Baccho credas. Schottus mentions other infcriptions. This garden was now let out for 200 ducats per annum. The great The great hall is built like that at hxll, Padua , but is much lefs, tho’ the portici on each fide are higher and wider, and appear more {lately. The Po- The Podejia’s palace hath always a defta’i pa- guard of foldiers ; in an out-room are lace ' the pictures of many Podeftas. The piaz Here is a handfome long piazza, well z.x. pav’d with brick, and divided into many Areolce for the water to pafs more freely. Two Hone pillars in this piazza, fomewhat lefs than thofe at Venice , having the fame figures on the top. At the great hall is this antient in- feription, IMP CAES M ANTONIO GORDIANO PIO FEL AVG PP COS. II PROCOS TRIBVN POTEST. V. PONT MAXIMO RESPVBLICA EX LIBERALITATE MATIDIARVM D. D. And under it is inferibed on a marble, Lapidem hmc diu fub terra latentem prope forum frumentarium repertum Decemviri Reip. Vicentine hoc loco confpicuo P.CC. AN. MDLXXXVI. Ant. et Franc. Cajlellorum. M. In one of the llreets is this written on a {lone pillar, eredted where formerly a houfe flood s Ffueflo e il loco doue era la Cafa del Scelera- tijfmo Galeazzo da Roma , il qual con Jfeppo Almerigo et altri fuoi complici com- mifero atrocijfimi homicidii in quejla citta del Anno 1548. D. 3. Lugio. In the middle of the fame ftreet is another ftone thus inferibed, 1661. Scipion Piovene Bandito in perpetuo per Vinquiforato di T. F. Autor ddatroce firage de Minijlri et altri innocenti nel giorno del palio , in facia della publica Recheza. The go- At this city the gentlemen chufe 12 vernmnt. out their number, four of which muft {.Italy. be dodlors of law ; and the 12 eledl two confuls. We faw the manner of twilling filk in silk twlft- this place, by an engine that is moved by ln £- a water-wheel, which transfers its motion by the help of feveral cogs and lanthorns to a great horizontal wheel, wich the cogs perpendicular as at A B which is fattened to the top of a great frame C D that hath on the outfide a double row of fpindles with filk. i i are the fpindles. The uppermoft row of fpindles is twirled round by a rope H K L that crofles about a pully at W, and is lapped within the frame C D into a letter circle m 0 n y upon forked rays sp sp sp sp> that go from the centre of the frame. This centre, when the engine moves, pulls about the cord or rope HKL and turns about the fpindles. The lower row of fpindles are turned by another device, viz. m is the centre of the frame ; n q , n q are crofs bars which turn about a little axis at 0 i at q q a cord is tied, which going thro’ a hole A Journey thro’’ Tart of the Italyi] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 539 a hole at w w, near the centre, hath a weight fatten’d to it ; pp are the weights, which pulling q q, make n n bear outwards; nn are armed with fmooth fleel, which prefling againtt the bottom of the fpindles i i, twirl them round as the engine moves; from m to S goes a radius of wood, over which pafles the cord x. To each lpindle there are fix’d two little wires with eyes, through either of which they put a filk thread, and thefe two threads pals through a great hole, and are twitted together by the motion of the engine. Round the frame C D are fwithes or reels, and between every pair of them is a little wheel, with very long radii, which are lifted up by little fpiral bars of wood, in the circumference of the frame. among the reft on a beam was a little Skippon. gallows, with the figure of a man hang-- , ‘*'*"V* V *' ing, which reprefented an innocent per- fon, who was condemned to die, but by our lady’s afliftance he fell down alive, and was freed. From this hill we had a rare profpetft of the city, country and mountains. Some diftance hence we vifited a neat Count Cs- palaceof count Capra, who was bandito’d, F a ’*f 4 ' and fled to Injpruck, where he did fome lnce ' mifchief he loft his life for. The palace is fituated on a hill, and is commonly called La Rotonda . The figure of the outfide is fquare ; it hath on each fide a fair afcent to a ftately portico, fup- ported by fix pillars ; underneath are rooms for the ordinary offices, as bake- houfe, kitchen, &c. Over them in the middle is a round hall, with a painted cupola, like that of the prince of Orange' s nigh the Hague, but lefs, and not fo fairly adorn’d. Four great valvce opened to¬ wards each portico, where the light came in. 1 his houfe hath three figures, a fquare, a crofs, and a circle. ?n m m are the lower ends of the bars, which ftrike under the radii, and rifing towards n n n , raile them up as the engine moves round. On either fide of this wheel are little teeth, which move two wheels, that wind up the filk as it is twitted by the fpindles. The motion of the engine is very exaft. Of the coarfer kind of filk, called Fi- licello, they make ftockens. silk-J it* At a filk-dyer’s we were inform’d that the natural colour of filk is either white or yellow: The yellow is made white bv being boiled in a great caldron of foap and water. Silk is dyed red by boiling it in this liquor, fafiron 100 lb. Alume difcece 141b. 90 ingefterie of the juice of lemons, 30 ingefterie being put in at a time. Black colour is given by a liquor, wherein there is 100 lb. of Va- lonia, 40 or 50 lb. of galls, that give it a glols ; and after that they put the filk in vitriol and honey. Juft without the gate that is towards Mans Bericus, we pafs’d through a flair arch of flone, and prefently attended many itone iteps, more than at the Englijh Je- fuit’s college in Liege •, after a good height we came to a retting place, where are two infcriptions mention’d in Scbottus. Then mounted higher, and near the top o urhdfs of the hill entred a fmall chapel of Our chapel.' Lady, wherein is obfervuble a multitude of little pidtures, figures of men, &V. in wax and wood, crutches, and the like, being lo many memorials of miracles ; A B C D is the fquare •, E E E E are the four entrances from the portici, that make the crofs; F is the round hall. There are two chambers in each corner fquare, fome of which are finely painted on the roofs. We faw here a Mofaick table of wood, dettribing a pair of tables, and Gioco del Occho. Feb . 4. Hiring horfes we rode fix miles Guftoza# under thefides of hills on the right hand, and arrived at a village called Gujlcza, where we took two guides, who with lighted ftraw conducted us into a great cave, which is reputed feven miles long, and was probably a place of fecurity in time of wars and perfecution ; for we obferv’d two entrances, which formerly had gates to them, and have holes near them, as in cattle walls to (hoot through. We went about a mile under ground, and took no¬ tice of large fpaces, fome of which were low-roof’d, and others indifferently high, but none fo high and large as in iVckey- Hole in Somerfetjhire, One room was clos’d A Journey thro' Tart of the [Italy. Skipi-on. clos’d up with a wall, and call’d Camera d*Ammunitioni. They fhew’d us a rude ftone, which they call’d Pietra Dilocca. Here was formerly a quarry, where they digg’d out ftone, for we obferv’d the im- preilion of cart-wheels within the cave, and three or four great ftones almofl hewn out of the rock. Many vaft rude pillars fupport the roofs, from whence hung fta- labtites, i. e. water petrified. At this time we found a great number of bats clinging to the fides and the roof of the cave : We law a great oven, made by art in the rock, which was uled by thofe that fled hither. A water flopp’d us from. going further, and in that water we took Equities (which they call) Venetiani, but are truly Pitlices Marini. The cave and water was now very warm. Defcending the hill we came into ano*- ther cave, being only one large high-roof’d Tridentus fpace, whence are ventiducts or channels ha palace cut out of the rock, that convey a cold 'due™* 1 *' w ^ nc ^ i nto an adjoining palace belonging to Tridentus, a nobleman of Vicenza. When they would have a cool air, they fhut up the gate at the entrance of the cave, and open a door at the end of the channel, which lets in the frefco, every room having a hole in the wall or pave¬ ment to admit it. In the hall is this infcription ; Temporibus aftivis ad magnitudinem calarum ftbi , neceffariis , et amicis praclarum hoc remedium comparavit. Over a door that lets in the frefco is written i Ad locum iflum adificandum longum illud tetnpus quo non ero magis me movit 3. exiguum vita mea. See Piereskius 's life written by Gajjendus. On a Hone was infcrib’d ; Francifcus Tridentinus Vicentius iblus Hiero- Jolymitani Equitis Filius gelidi Venti flatum in Caverna Cubola vocata fpirantem in redes proprias per hanc Crypto-Porticum deduxit, ad temporandum ardentes et afiivos calores, turn cohibendo turn relax- ando tio-Vo atq-, mirabili artificio per cubi- cula qutzque ducendo, qua pro libitu fuo refrigerare et calefacere valet •, it a ut ejus Villa ingenio, diligentid, impensd ac emu- latione ornatior effect a, inter regia orna¬ ment a connumerari poffit. Anno mdlx. AEtatis fua xxi 1. At Vicenza and Verona an hungar puffed for 15 livres and a half, a pifloie for 28 livres ; Spanijh rials were refufed. Feb. 5. Hiring horfes for four livres a-piece, without a guide, we fet forward for Verona we rode a ftrait and broad way, through a pleafant valley, having hills on each fide of us, and at ten miles diftance came through a large village, fituated on a hill, called Monte Bello, a caftle on a hill near it of the fame name. Six miles further we baited at Villa Nova , a fmall village. Then we travelled in fight of Soave , a walled place, with a caftle on a hill on our right hand. Three miles from our baiting place we paffed through Caldere, another village, and faw two or three caflles upon hills on the right hand, and nigh the road a hand- fome cloifter, feated on a hill, and be¬ longing to white monks. Four miles fur¬ ther we came through S. Martyr., a village, and then to S. Michael , where there is a fmall cloifter of eight white monks, who have a pretty church, called La Madonna della Campagnia. The church is after this figure : 13 A the body of the church is odangular, with a high cupola on the top ; D the high altar hath another cupola •, B C is the por¬ tico, almoft quite round the outfide. From Monte Bello to Verona the road was heavy and ftony. This evening we arrived at Verona , and Verona, paffed the guard of foldiers at the gate without examination. Towards Mantua -road the city is very well fortified with bulwarks, and a ftrong high wall, and deep and broad dry trenches. We faw the garden of fignior Horatio sigi.hrUa- Jujli : Firft we entered a fair garden, fet ratio Jufti about with tall cyprelles, and then we ,lls n Alde, ‘ afcended many fteps, at the upper end whereof was a pretty grotto cut out of the rock, and a cage of birds; we made thence another afcent, and faw a little chapel of our lady, cut alfo out of the rock, and therein we obferved two marble pedeftals for tapers to ftand on, which were like che pillar we faw in Zurich library, being naturally inlaid with leveral colour’d ftones. From hence we went up many flairs within a place like a fleeple, and came into ano¬ ther garden planted with cyprefles, &c. Here we faw aloe trees bearing feed, and there is a fummer-houfe with two or three rooms Italy . J Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 54.1 rooms and a kitchen •, another fummer- houfe at the other end of the garden, whence we had a fair prolpebt of the city and country : A well of water, fountains, &V. are cut out of the rock : One quarter of the lower garden is a little ifland, with a narrow mote for fwans, very handfomely adorn’d with flatues and marble walls. Under many ftatues in this garden are antient ftones, fome of which have thefe infcriptions, viz. HELPIDII IPHIDEL P SERVILIO PE PLACIDO FABRICIA LEFESTA. V. F. STLANIALL CYTHERIS SIBI ET • • • LA HO HOMVNC .O. SE • • • M. IF. QVIR, ALPINO PRAEFALAE CALLI TRIB LEG F. I. AVG. PRAEF. COH. II. DONDON BELLO GERM CLAVDIAT. IE. ARCELLIN • • • M • • • CORNELLIAE RESTITVTAE C. POMPONIVS HERMES CONIVG DVLCIS ET CORNELIAE FENGVSAs SCC R SANCTISSIMAE El. S. S. IN IV IVDV AVG R CIVIA GELLIAE R.I • • • • NOVELLA QF SEVERA C. LdELlVS OPTATVS TEI D. M. TROPHIMES L. LUCRETIVS EPICTETVS BENEMERENTI. Vol, VI. D. M. IPSITHIL 1 AE DVLCISSIMAE C: VALERI VS • CATVLLVS LEPORIBVS SVIS MOERENS P. We were told that the father of him who made thefe gardens, was general of the emperor’s army in Hungary. At the beafl market we viewed the an- Ampbi- tient amphitheatre, which i or up very r *^ e which are in part printed by him in Italian , and he was now writing the fecond part. Every thing was placed methodically, and we were permitted to We obferved thefe fruits, viz. Labial five Phafeolus .... Bachiotle ; caftanea equina ; Amomo in Cafelo ; Piper Aithiop. Indian Morice bells or Haove ; Manna (like fmall rice) which the Ifraelites ate in the wildernefs ; Cuciofora Clufii ; Conus Cedri. Among the minerals and ftones. Lapis objidianus , which was green and pel¬ lucid like glafs; terra rojja Veronefe ; ter¬ ra alba Cf odorata ; terra figillata Meli- tenfis , with the picture of the grand ma¬ iler, about which was written, F. Bon Martin d: Redin M. M Hofpitalis Hierufalem. A little ftone call’d Nicolaus Cardanus ; leveral Ceraunia ; one very neat, and thus fhap’d. Pietra tuberonc , like the thorn of a ray- fifh; Pietra di Monte Sin ah, which had the fignature of a wood ; terra di Nocera ; the granate ftone in Talc ; miner a five ma¬ trix 544 s kippon. trix Rubinorum \ a very great topaz ; An- v/’vw tale, or the furrow’d tubulus we had at Venice of Rofachio -, Adarce , a {tone found in fome rivers where fait and frefh water meets ; Maxillcs pifcis Hippuri with gra¬ nulated teeth ; Maxilla Synodontis pifcis, with {harp teeth ; Belicolo marine, i. e. operculum concharum \ Corbela pefce, fhap’d like a Cochlea marina , but of a fungous nature ; Minera {rubra) argenti vivi•, S?cu¬ rls lapis •, Onghia odorata, i. e. Concha fpec. fteleniiles, which feem’d to be wood petrified ; two giants teeth ; the male Cam Aeon, which was {lender, the female much thicker. Among his medals we faw an Elizabeth's 6 d. Many of Calceola¬ rias* s rarities are transferred hither ; and he firew’d us thofe very corals which are pibtured in thatmufaeum. He had been gathering thefe about 32 years. Within his clofet is written, Virluti, non ignaviae, quicquid Fruor quicquid fpero. S D. Quid feret Indus Aferq •, novum jam foie fub ifio Nil erat ad fenfus, hie memoranda patent. Academi- We faw the palace where the Acade- ciFilarmo- m ‘ c j ’pilarmonici meet, who carry on much the fame defign with the Virtuofi of Vi¬ cenza, only thefe endeavour to promote mufick moft. There is a {lately portico in the front. In a fair hall hang feveral imprefies, and the pictures of thefe fol¬ lowing, viz. 1. Albertus Lauefola Philarm. Pa¬ ter. 1581 2. Maximilianus Peregrinus Equ. Ph. P. 1604 3. Jordanus Co. Seraticus Phil. P. 13. 1614 4. Petrus Pau. Malafpina Philarm. P. 1614 5. Cafpar Comes de Veritate Ph. P. 16. 1625 6 . Michael Sacramofi us Equ. Ph. P. 17. 1630 7. Aloyfius Carterius Equ. Ph. P. 20. 1632 8. Spineta March. Malafpina. Phil. P.21. 1640 9 . Nicolaus Rambaldus Equ. Phi¬ larm. P. 22. 1641 10. Jo. Paulus Pompeius Comes Phil. P. 23. 1643 11. Sacramofius Sacram. March. Ph. P. 25. 1649 12. Alexander Comes Nogarola. Ph. P. 26. 13. Petrus Aloyf. Co. Geraticus de Alig. Ph. P. 27. 1652 14. Alexander Co. de San Bonifa* cio Pater Phil. 1657 [Italy. 15. Cafpar Marchio G.herardinus Phil. P. 29. 1658 16. Joannes Malafpina Princeps Philarm. Pater. 30. 1660 Over three feveral doors of this hall are thefe fentences, Ccelorum mitatur concentum. Philarmonicis orbis intelligentiis. Over the door which leads into the mu¬ fick room, is, Munificentiam exumiam, Auguftini Amuli Frees oris undiq-, incomp arabilis Crati teftamur Phiiarmonici Quod Anno cioincxiv HS xx Academiam locupletaverit nofir am. Magnanimus Ad hanc ipfam aulam exornandam. In Virtute Ludus. Among many inferiptions I tranferib’d this following, which jingles thus, Lcilor ingredere laete, at cave ne auribus quidquam haurias , ne tibi Fhilarmonicae Sirenis cantus fit. Incantus, inter quippe Mufarum melos, Praetoris, Patris Filii laudes in uno pangit Catarcno Cornelia , currunt Venetiae, accurrit Roma Grancli- grant amburbi ambarum Urbium, Corne- liam fuam fpeciem denuo miratura hoc in Mufarum holocaufio, hoc ex Mufarum loco haufto Catareni Nomini immolato, Vel ingreder LeElor nec immorator Fafces Frabeas Peplos Fafius Fribus Populos, Avitis Scipiadum mentis promeritus, Intra Mufarum nemora, Ultra men fur am nu- mera, Ingredere Lector Egredere Lita- bundus Laeiabundus Verona Celeufinata Cumulatura, Ingredere et Grandigra, grandigrant namque Amburbia omnium Urbium. In the mufick room is a little organ, and in two other rooms and prelfes are kept the mufick books and inftruments. In one of the rooms is the model of the houfe. This is written on a table that hangs up, viz. Carichi delli fei Reggenti dell * Academia Fi- larmonica et Autoritadi che hanno nelli doi Mefi del reggimento loro. Futti li Reggenti che di tempo in tempo Sa- ranno fono tenuti avanti che efehino del reggi - A Journey thro ’ Part of the Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. reggmefito loro di ptoporre alia Campag- nia , chc fi elegghino li fucceffori loro con- forme alia difpofitione delle leggi rfri in Jimili elettione. Li Reggenti di Gennaro et Feb'ro ponno col confento di gravijf. Sigri Padri n'ri rap- prefentare nell Academia noflra ogni forte d’attiane public a, fenza pero alcuna fpefa autoritade e anco concejfa alii Reggenti di Maggio et Giugno. Li Reggenti di Marzo et Aprile debbono proporre che fi eleggom un Bibliothe carlo il quale habbi cura di tenere in Rcgiftro tutti li libri de lettere dc Id Acad, nra offervando bene fe vene mane a fie alcuno ct cio auvenendo Debbi quanti prima fare ue confapevole i l figr. Governator tiro di quel tempo, accio fi procur di ritrovarlo , il cut Off. incomincia il i° di Maggio et dura per un anno intiero come nella parte 54 in libro roffo in c. 17. Item, chs fi elegghino un Cenfore [opra le imprefe, qual dura per un anno , come di fopra. Item, che .fi eleggino tre Giudici fopra le imprefe, rad fe ue Cavi uno a forte delli dot alf bora novamente eletti, et quefto accio, fia ddinfiruttione alii noon che S'hauranno ad eleggere delle cofie, che Sararmo ftate irattate per inanti come nella parte 59. in Vo roffo in cap. 16. Li Reggenti di Maggio ct Giugnod ebbono in termine di Giorni died fare che fiano riball tottati tutti li nri Salariati come nella parte 20 in Vo roffo in cap. 5. et fatte le fodette ballottatione, fi eleggbi unAcad. Sopraftante alii inftruraenti ma¬ fic alt, il cm Canca fia di procurare che detti inftrumenti fiano tenuti aldordine de nri Salariati [pehdendo n't tutto qucllo fiara bifiagno, la cui fpefa poi gli fia bonificata nelle J.ue Padre ordinarie coma nella parte in Vo roffo. Item, che fi elegghino tre Giudici fiepra la compofitione della Caffella, come nella pfe 64 in Vo roffo in c. 20. 50. Item, che fi, elegghino tre Giudici overo Re- •vifori de libri delle Effattore de Caffere et delle partite de falariati accio fe , male and female, much lefs than the former, being hardly fo big as a fox ; his tail tipt with black, v the belly white, the reft of the body of a dilute fandy colour, and fpotted over like a leopard. Both this and the gatto- lupo had faces like cats, and are carni¬ vorous. The male gatto-pardo was not fo fierce as the female. 6. A lufty he-lion, having a long tail tipt with black. On each foot he had four claws, and a little claw above them behind. When he lay down, he thruft out his penis, which feem’d crooked, and bended backward toward his tail. 7. A great bear. 8. Two great eagles of a dark ferru- gineous colour, and feathered almoft to their claws. In the road a laden camel was met by fome of our company. From Marmirolo we travel’d a very ftrait, but bad way, fhaded on each fide with tall trees, which continu’d about three miles to a little chapel on the right hand, where the road winded a little to one fide; but after that it continu’d ftrait to Mantua. A Dominican friar who had been pro- feffor of philofophy in Bononia , and who at this time was reader of divinity in the Dominican cloifter at Verona , travel’d in the lame coach with us to Mantua. He was very civil, and willing to inform us of thefe particulars, viz. That the Scali- Cujlorn. gers came firft out of England ; that in Verona , on the laft Sunday of the carni¬ val, are races of men, horfes (inftead of women which ran formerly^ and afies that run thro’ a long ftreet, without ri¬ ders, a prasmium being given to the owner of the horfe, &c. that wins. That in thefe parts all the children have equal portions; and the wife, if her husband dies firft, carries her portion or dowry back with her : but if fhe dies firft, then the children fhe leaves, take equal parts; and if fhe hath no children, half her dowry goes to her husband, and the other half to her parents, &c. If a woman hath children by her firft; husband, and, marrying again, hath chil¬ dren by a fecond husband, when fhe dies, her eftate is equally divided amongft all her children by both husbands. If a young woman marries an old man, flie will firft have a dowry or jointure fettled upon her for life. When Italy .1 Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 549 Mantua. When we arrived at Mantua we firft pals’d a lentinel at a paled gate, then entred a gate at the Fortezza (where we paid three foldi a man) which is ftrongly fortified with a good wall, and a very broad ditch of water ; fome diftance thence we pafs’d another gate, and then went over a long bridge *, a good way further we went through a very long por¬ tico (like Heidleberg bridge) and entred a third gate, where foldiers examined us, and took away our fire-arms. Here they gave us this bolletin, viz. Gratis. Adi. 19 Feb. 1664. N.B. Inglefe. II quale viene da Verona et e d’anni zo. con barba , Occhi Neri , Carnagione Com¬ mune , entra in Mantua per Porta .... hauendo . dijfe di Volere . et allogiare al . et poi partirc per . We got into the city juft before the ringing of the Ave Maria bell, when they always fhut the gates. After we had taken up our lodging, we carried the bol- letino to an officer, who writ it out into a great book, and made a mark on it, then returned it to us again, and gave us another fcroll, which we delivered to our hoft, having paid five Mantuan livres for it. The duke's The duke’s palace is an indifferent palace. building without, but within is a ftately fquare and high hall, or guard-chamber, in the middle whereof hangs a coronet and four funs about it i towards the top are piiftures of horfes behind curtains. The roof is fairly painted. Next to the hall are three handfome rooms adorned with good pictures ; two of thofe rooms are chambers of prefence, having canopies in them ; the roof of one is prettily fretted into a labyrinth, and in feveral places of it is written, Che tio fojfe , che fi fojfe , (Ac. And in the middle is, Dedalee Indujlrie Ffie Virtute. And round the edges, Vine. Gonz. Mant. [HI. et Montfer. II. Dux. dura jub Arcs Canijfa cotitra Turcas pugn. s. Barbara. In the chapel or church of S. Barbara we obferved nothing befides the holy water bafons of flone, which were carved (each of them) witti a fnake purfuing a toad. Vol. VI, We endeavoured to fee the duke’s ca- S^ippon. binet of rarities, but were refufed. The liable is a long building, with two The ft able , fides, and a court in the middle ; one fide was fill’d with horfes and mules •, and about half the other fide was a ftable, and the other half a riding-fchool. Two hundred horle kept here, among which we took notice of three white ones fpotted curioufly with black •, over every horfe’s manger was the horfe’s name written. S. Peter's is the cathedral, a very pretty s. P«:tcrV church, having two rows of pillars on cf )urch. each fide of the nave, or body of the church, befides a row of little chapels on each fide. The roofs both of church and chapels were neatly wrought and painted ; handfome flatues flood between the chapels and pictures of flints, round the body of the church above the pillars. Without the church-door we read this, printed, viz. La Ve hle Confraternitd della Beata Virgine Coronata hoggi fa cel brare il refiduo Jino alii cento Mejfe all alt are d’ejfa per V anirna di Cajfandra Feranina •, Fratelli et Sorelle pregate per la liberatione d'effa dal purgalorio. S. And-ew's is a large and handfome s. An- collegiate church, the nave whereof is drew’.' but one arch. church. The dukes of Mantua lie buried here under the choir. Behind the high altar table is a fquare place built of flone a good heighth, having round about it a portico, and round the top a flone rail. On a graveftone here was written, Lampridium Carum Mufis hie Mantua Ser- vat. M DXL. Nigh the weft-door .flood a great bell made with eight furrows in it, they faid it was never rung but once, and then all the women in the town that were with child mifearried. Round about it is writ¬ ten in old characters. Guido de Conzaga Prrepofitus Ecdefies ma~ joris Mantuee propnis manibus fecit hanc Campanam in honorem pretiofi fanguinis Cbrifti , tempore illujlris Principis Job. Franc, de Gonzaga primi Marc bio nis Mantuee Anno Dom. 1444. Over the portico of this church, on the infide, is inferibed, mcccii Bonifatii Papee IX. XIII VVcerfai Rotnanorum Regis XXVII. Anni ejus facri Cruoris bic inventione fada Jub Leone PP III et Carulo Magno TV. 7 A An A Journey thro’ Tart of the [Italy. Skipfok. An III. fub Leone III I et Henrico III Eredionifq-, eo tempore hujus AEc defies fub Bonifatio Comite Beatrice et Matilda CCGCI III. Omnipotent Domine Jefu fanguinis tui glo- riof hoc in templo locati Honori et Reve¬ rential gratum utinam Majeftati tues atq-, huic Vrbi pro pitiable dicatum ijlud opus dccipe et ad vota id tibi offerentiuM refpice pietate tua Clementiffime Pater. Palazzo di The Palazzo di Ragione is above Hairs, Ragione. as t j ie great hall at Padua , and is a long and broad room, on one fide whereof is an antient effigies of Virgil. On the out- fide of this building is another old ffatue. The corfo. The corfo, where horles run races, is a handfome long ftreet with palaces on each fide, among which is one old and fair palace belonging to count JuJlus. ’Butchery. The butchery is a long and handfome building that Hands by a channel of water which divides the city into two parts. The duke’s name is Carlo Gonzaga II. a young man. He married Anna Maria of the archduke of Infpruck’ s family, but he hath greater kindnels for the countefs Margarita of Cafal. His foldiers have but 20 foldi per diem , which pay is too little, and therefore many run away •, he hath alfo fbirri, who walk the Hreets with carbines, and fecure the highways on horfeback. He hath about 50 Switzers for his guard, who, with his pages, Lie. are habited in a yellow livery with black lace. Lett lays, that 24 carbines attend the duke’s perfon, and that he hath 800 horfe well effeem’d thro’ all Italy , and 12000 foot •, but two troops of light horfe enroll’d. The country yields 60000 doppie per annum , and Montferrat 13C00. He fays there are 6000 Jews , who pay 20000 feudi ; but we were informed the Jews. Jews were about 700, who live in a part of the city ( Gheto ) by themfelves, and are known by an orange, tawny, or filemot ribband in their hats. Leti fays the Man¬ tua mills pay 4000 feudi, and that there are 45000 chriHians, from whom is ex¬ pected 70000 feudi. The go- The duke hath a council of Hate, con- vernment. ftfting of fix noblemen. A minifler of Hate, who reprefents the duke in his abfence, difpatches the greateH affairs, punifhes the noblemen, and de¬ termines fuch controverfies among them, which the inferior magiffrates have no power in. At this time there was no miniffer of Hate *, the lalt, which was marquefs Ot¬ tavio Gonzaga being lately dead. A council call’d Magijlrato Ducale , con- fifling alfo of fix, and a prefident •, thefe refemble our court of Exchequer , and de¬ termine differences between the duke and his people. Count Paniffa was prefident at this time. Another council of fix fenators and a prefident, who judge in all civil and cri¬ minal caufes, which are firff brought to the Capitano della jujlilia , whofe fentence muff be confirmed by that fenate, and figned by the duke. Leffer civil caufes may be determin’d by the Capitano and fenate. Four fecretaries of Hate. In this dukedom are about 102 burgi, or terras, over which are appointed fo many commiffaries or governors. The duke makes knights, which are call’d Cavallieri del Redemptore. Of this duke’s family are thefe three fmall princes feudatory of the empire, 1. Prince of Novellare. 2. Of Bozolo. 3. Of Guaftalio, which do all coin money, have power of life and death, and are only obliged to be at the duke of Man¬ tua's court three months in a year. The duke of Mantua is call’d alfo prince of Solfrino. Cajlione is another branch. The prince of Mirandula’s name is Picus. Mirandula is about the bignefs of a citadel, and hath but one gate. The duke’s Bucentoro is a large boat, The duke’s but no ways comparable to that at Venice. Bucemoro ' We faw a rich gilded waggon of the duke’s. Before the houfes in the piazza, are fome cloiffers or portici. The common people here are but poor, and they fpeak the Italian more corruptly than the Venetians. This city is not po¬ pulous, yet about the market place we obferved a good number of people, it; being Carnival time, and there was much mafquerading, and every night an opera, or a ridiculous comedy. The palaces are more plain, and the houfes have lefs windows than thofe in the Hate of Venice. None of the inhabitants wear Hiletto’s, or daggers, as they do in Venice. We obferved a great company of fchool-boys walking two and tw r o toge¬ ther, and clad in blue gowns with hang¬ ing ffeeves. We went up a high tower, where on the top lives a poor man and his family ; his bufinefs is to ffrike the bells every hour, &c. Hence we had a large pro- fpedt of the city, which is great, and is fituated in the lake. The Accefi are about 80 in number, Accefii and are like the virtuofi at Vicenza and Verona s they have S. Ignatius for their patron, the Jefuits approving before any are Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. are admitted ; moll of them ftudy phi- lofophy, and they have this imprefs or emblem, a Speculum reiiebling the rays ot the fun. Their prefident is chofen every year •, the prefent is call’d Alfonfo Ambrotti. Their protedtor is the Principino, or young duke Carlo Ferdinando , about 13 years of age. The Mantuan money is now made of bafe filver, and will not therefore pafs cur¬ rent in other territories. Mcafures. A Braccia here is = 25 f inch. The pound = 12 ounce ; the ounce = or and j of an Englifh ounce. Without the city, after we had pafs’d over a brick bridge crofs a narrow part of the lake, we enter’d a palace of the Palazzo duke’s, call’d Palazzo del F, which is a de l T - handfome, fquare, and uniform, but low, building, rough call like ftone, having a court within : In the front of a pleafant garden is a pretty portico, adorn’d with neat flatues: We law feveral rooms fur- nifh’d with rare pictures made by Julio Romano •, in every chamber were two rich cabinets made alike: The hall here hath the walls well painted with the fight of the giants, and therefore it is call’d the Giants Hall , which is a fquare room with a fpherical roof, and is very remarkable for its fpeedy conveyance of any noife that is but whifper’d •, for if at one corner you fpeak very foftly to another in the oppo- lite corner, he will eafily hear you. Note , That the voice is heard only in the op- pofite corner, and not in the other corner of the fame fide, nor in the middle of the room. The middle of this hall hath a ftately cabinet, adorn’d with cryftal windows and pillars. One room here was beautify’d with rare fculpture. Feb. n. About 22 o’clock, after we had received our fire-arms we left at our entrance into Mantua , we took our places in a bark, and delivered a bolletin to a felfow there. Then we went through a fhort channel, and came into the lake, on our left hand having a view ot a long brick bridge, confifling of about 45 or 50 arches, which lead to S Georgio , a fuburb as ftrongly fortified as the Fortezza we enter’d Mantua at. In the lake we faw a very great number ot coots, which the duke will not fuffer any to fhoot at. After fome time we came to the river Mincio , which comes out of Lago di Garda at Pcfchiera , a fortified place of the Ve¬ netians, and in its paffage makes the lake of Mantna , which is five miles long : Ten miles from Mantua we paffed a bridge and fluice at Governs , where having baited about an hour, wc came into the river Po, which is about the bignefs of that part of Danubius we faw. The country on each fide the Po is very rich : Eridanus , quo non alius per pinguia culta , Skippon. In mare purpureum violenlior injluit asnnis. Virg. Georg. 1 . 4. Ten miles further we paffed by OJlia on the Lft hand •, and three miles tnence on the fame fide the pope’s country began : Seven miles further we paffed by Majfi on the left hand ; and feven miles more, at break of day, {Feb. 12.) we arrived at Stellata , a large village of the pope’s, where we refrelhed ourfelves with cakes and Aqua Vitce, while the watermen pro¬ cured a bolletin or pafs from the fort, which hath a fmall place called Figarolo oppofite to it ; then we rowed on, and went in the right branch of the Po , which here makes a great iiland. Eight miles from Stellata our bark flopp’d at a village call’d il Ponte , where a great many porters were ready to carry the baggage into a Idler boat, which we enter’d after we had pafs’d under a long portico like a corn market-houfe : In this boat we pafs’d a narrow cut of water for four miles, and about noon came diredlly to the walls of Ferrara. We paid half a paulo a man Ferrara. for our paffage in the laft boat, and half a Venetian feudo a man for our paffage from Mantua to il Ponte. Before we enter’d Ferrara we took each of us a bolletin, and left our fire-arms. The fellow that gave us thefe bolletins, writ down our names, ages, (Be. The bolletin was after this form ; Adi. Feb. 22, 1664. Entra per la Porta S. Bened. P. S. Ingl fe ft concede a • che pojja allogiare il Sopradetto per notte tre • • • • Si proroga per • • * dat. 12 * • * di • * * • 1664. Il Fo- raftiero riceuuto Phaurd quejlo bolletino alia porta , dour a andare da il upficiale, che fia in commune, il quale fotto Jcriven- dolo gli conceverd I allogw per notte 3, le quail pajjate , et voler.do di piii trattenerfi, douro andar da Monfig. v. Leg. per otlener la proroga, port undo il prefente bolletino fempre adejfo, e volendo ufeire , deue pre- fentarlo alia porta per la quale ufeira , avertendo, che ft tralafciord alcuna delle diligenze fopradette, jard caftigato con- ferme alii bandi inpenadi feudi 50, e tre tratti di cor da, fi come anco fe non dird il vero nome , cognome, a fua patria. Adi . di .1664. ufcijfe per porta. After we had received the bolletins, we came within the walls, and went under many little bridges that were over a ftrait cut of water, which brought us into the middle of the city, where we landed nigh the palace. This $ 5 2 Skippon. ^Journey thro 7 Tart of the [Italy* This city is about feven miles in com- pafs, and is ftrongly fortified with a good brick wall, and a very broad ditch of water. Portici or cloifters are before fome of the houfes-, many of the ftreets are ftrait, and of a handfome breadth and k ngth : There are fome {lately palaces, viz. that of marq. Ziral, Bevil'acqua. Near a large piazza, where tilting is ufed, is the Pa¬ lazzo di Diamante , fo called becaufe every ft one on the outfide is fhaped into the figure of a diamond. In the piazza before the cathedral is this pope’s flatue, fitting in a chair, upon a fquare pillar, whereon is infcrib’d ; monument of Lilius Giraldus , whofe in- fcription is in Schottus. Nigh the high altar is a plain tomb {landing upon four marble pillars, and this infcrib’d *, Hie jacet Sacre Memorie Urbanus Papa III. natione Mediol.genere Crebellorum,Sepultus OOO o Mill ’ clxxxv. et revelatus Mill 0 ccc.v. die viii i menfis Augujli, indicione tertia, temporibus Fralris Guidonis Ferrarienfis Epifcopi , Johannis Archipresbyteri, et Bo - nigratie Prepofitus. On two pillars of this monument is a crofs, and this written j Alexandra VII. P M. Moderatori olim Vi- gilantiffmo nunc Parenti Optimo , pro in- fiaurata Civium felicitate amorem quern fervat in Corde ceternat. in Aire Ferraria , abOrbe redempto Anno mdclx. A brafs figure Hands on each fide of a gate that leads to the flairs of the publick hall *, one of them is in a fitting pofture, and reprefents the duke of Borfo ; the other is on horfeback, and reprefents Leo- nellus Marchio Ejlenf.s. Before the weft end of the Domo are low flories, which are chain’d together. Under the marble picture of Clement the eighth is this inlcription ■> Clementi VIII. Pont. Max. Principi Optimo , Patri Patrice , Domino nofiro beneficen- t iff mo, Qui Ferrariam Petri Card. Al- dobrandim Fratres , Filii, Pontifcii Exer- citus moderatores virtute receptum fui et Sacri Senatus adventu deccravit , Vedigalia d Ducibus quondam impofita aut fuftulit aut imminuit ac tributo injlituit. Centum virale confilium ac Decern Viralem Magi- firatum annuo cenfu ad tuendam dignitatem et publicosfumptus faciendcs , quiq-, virorum tribunal ad lites jufte ac celeriter dirimen- dos Jlipendiis perferiptis erexit , novam ar- cem preefidio civilatis excedificavit , Mar- garitam Aufiriam magnifcentijfime ex¬ cept am Philippo III. Catholico regi conjugio junxit , Duobus maximis conciliatis Re¬ gibus , opt at am Chriftiance Reipublicee pa- cem peperit , poftremb Urbem repetens apud Ferrarienfes Cives de quibus optime pri- vatim ac publics meruerat ingens fui defi- deriunt reliquit , ne tot tantorumq\ benefi- ciorum erg a banc civitatem memories ob- livione intercidat , Francifcus ex Comitibus Blandrata et Sanfti Georgii Card. S. de¬ mentis Flamine Legatus ejufdemq, Cardi- nalis Aldobrandini Ferraries Collegatus poni mandavit , mdcii. TtaDomo. The Domo is large, having double ifles, and handfome chapels. We faw here the Reliquie Sand arum Laur. Mart, et Gregorii. Reliquio Sand or um Georgii et M. Aurel. Ep. The Theatins church will be a neat fmall Theatins. place when it is quite finifh’d j The Carthufians have a great convent, Carthu- with feveral cloiflers, one of which is afw- large fquare *, their cells are juft like thofe we faw at Venice , only bigger ; no women are fuffer’d to enter their monaftery, and they refilled the queen of Sweden when llie was here. The church is very neat: a high iron grate divides the choir from the body of the church. On the arch of the choir is written ; Anno primo d terres motu maxima, fuperato navali Exercitu Pure arum, Deo Immor- tali Summo ac Divo Chriftophoro templum rejlauravimus mdlxxi. Regnante Al- fonfo Eftenfe Duce Ferrarice Sfuinto. The Benedidlines have a fair church, s e nedic - wherein we faw a handfome monument tines. of Ariofto the poet. The convent hath four neat cloifters. In the Dominicans church we faw the nomini- monuments of Leonicellus the herbarift, tuns. Prifcianus, and others. See their inferip- tions in Schottus. S. Paul's is a large and not unhandfome church. The palace of the cardinal is call’d the The caftle , caftle, fituate in the middle of the city or c f dl ’ it is fquare, built of brick, and hath a nals V act broad moat of running water about it ; at each corner is a tower, and in one of them we obferv’d the afeent was half the breadth a fmooth fpiral, and the other half flairs. We faw a great hall, and feveral fair rooms with canopies of flate, and in the middle is a pretty court. The cardinal hath Switzers for his guard. Cardinal Franciom was legate at this time. The Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. Govern- The government of Ferrara is by a merit. legate and a vice-legare, fent by the pope. The city hath a great council of all the gentlemen, who meet once a year, and chufe One Giudice de Savii, Four Confuli. Both the judge and confuls are elected but for one year, but they are molt com¬ monly re-ele£ted the fecond year j and the third year new ones are made. Feb. 12. In the evening we went out at Porta Paula, where we left our bol- letin, and met with our arms : Here we refufed to take a pafs to free us from the trouble of fearching, having no forfeitable goods ; and then we walk’d almoft a mile on a high bank, having a fenny country on each fide, and enter’d a fmall bark of the couriers, where we found a croud of paffengers. Before we fet forward we paid five julii a man ; then we were rowed about 17 miles, and at a village call’d Mal-Albergo, we remov’d into a larger bark, which was towed by one horfe j we obferv’d the country to be low and fenny, but as we went up ftream the country mended. A mile or two before we reach’d Bolonia , we took notice of many long and narrow ponds, with rows of flakes in them, wherein hemp is wretted ; and hereabouts are paper and iron mills: We pafs’d through about ten Iluices or foflegni, which keep up the water of the Renus , a narrow flream that runs to Mal- Albergo. In the fame boat we had the company of an ingenious Augufline monk, a Theatin, a Francifcan of S. Anton, di Padua , and an Oliverian, or white monk. Feb. 13. Having travelled by water all night, we arrived about 22 hours under Bononia. the walls of Bononia, and gave in our names near the landing place ; then hired Cainere Locante , being three chambers with three beds, for 2 I paulo’s a night, and bought our own provifion. This evening a fervant of our lodging went with us to the cardinal’s palace, and took a bolletin, which allowed us to lodge in that houfe. The talace ^ ie P' azza before the palace is a cu¬ rious large fountain, with the figure of a Neptune, and four angels: Over the en¬ trance into the palace is a fair and great flatue of pope Gregory XIII. blefling with his hand, and over him is written, Gregorio XIII. Pont. Max. S P QB. P. lentalue feralis Erynnis, Jquallicbat ubiq ; Skippon. funere civil as jamjam futura vajlitas, cum v -'"'V’ SJ opifera ex empyreis Maries rofetis adfpi- rante aura ilico evanuit virus, Jletit oc- cidio, revixit falus, inde diva fofpitatrix circunducto per vias triumpho, in fubjeAa hie plate a animis atq-, geinmis coronata nova Regina jure in Bononienfram corda regnavit, Manu Socia, pietate pari hinc Antonius Cardinalis Sanfta Crucius Le- gatus eliatn in Marcello San A a Crucio Nepote hodiepro-legato amabilijjimus, inde Hieronymus Cardinalis Columna Archiepif- copns Optimus inter fervati populi mixtas lestitice lachrymis acclamationes coronarunt, votiva quotannis in csvum fupplicatione be- neficium teftatura Bononia a pefie fibi Ju- perftes pofuit. Regnante Innocentio P. P. Decimo. Legato Fabritio Cardinali Sa- bello, Archiepifcopo Nicolao Cardin. Lu- dovifio. Anno Jubilcei mdcl. On the other fide are two large inferip- tions, one to Clement VII. the other to Clement VIII. We walk’d up one afeent, where are large open rooms round about; in one of which is this infeription ; D. 0 . M. Gregorio XIII. ad fummum Pon- tificatum ob maximas Virtutes Evefto Reipublices Chrifliance bono ac patriee fplendori nato , Civi optime merito S P ^ Bon. Jlatuam hanc erigendam curavit , quam jujju Pontificio Petrus Donatus Card. Ccefius Legatus hie collccandam ful- croq-, muniendam decreto interpofito fanxit , Anno Dominicce Nativitatis mdlxxx. menfe Octobris. A large room in this palace, where the notaries lit, which is called Spelunca La- tronum. The city and cardinal legates armories are in this palace. At the upper end of one room is a flatue of Hercules and a dragon. In another over feveral doors are effigies of popes, citizens of Bononia , viz. Gre¬ gory XIII. Innocent IX. Gregory XV. and Innocent X. We went up another eafy afeent, and over a door is the effigies of Urban VIII. Then we came into a fair hall, which hath a roof carved with popes arms and painted ; the walls are alfo curioufly pic-' tured with feveral flories, and under each there is an infeription explaining them : On one fide is this infeription j Maria Sofpitatnci, Adefte O Sol ac Luna lejles, vos autem qua marmor hie prxco nuntiat audite O Secula. Sesviebat vim- Vol. VI. 1. Aulam Farnefiam quam confpicis quatuor Pontijicum quos PaulusWl. ad pur pur am evexerat, Julii III. a monte, Marcelli 2 Cervini, Pauli 4. Caraffes. Pii 4. Me¬ dic ecs infignia condecorabant. Julii , Pauli , 7 B ac A journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy. dc Pii ob novum ornatum Semotis hoc im- 7 noli ob/equii monumentum fuffecit Ilieron. Card. Farnefius Leg. An. Lorn, mdclx. 2. San cl us Petroniiis privilegia Archigymnafii Bononienfis qucs ab Imperatore Lheodojio obtinuerat Dctiloribus cujlodicnda lradii. 3. Francifcus primus Gallorum Rex Bononice quam plurimos Jcrofulis labor antes J'anat. 4. Paulus 3 Farnefius ad componenda inter fupremos Chriftiani nominis Principes dif- fidia ab Urbe proficifcens Bononium Cun- tlorum ordinum plaufu ingredilur. 5. Adgidius Card. Albornotius Leg. Navigii aquas peraugendas aliaq ; opifica conjlru- enda demandat. Within the palace walls is a large gar- Thyfick den, wherein are many medicinal limples^^”- kept; the walls oi it are curioufly painted i the areola or beds are fenced with a high grate of iron, and in the middle of the garden is a fair and large brick well. At the end of S. Petronius two Roman (tones are well preferved ; one of them hath three effigies of men, and this in- fcription over their heads ; C. CORNELIVS. FVLLONIA. CORNELIA. CL. HERMIA. SALL. OFFICIOSA. CL. PRISCA. V, V. Q The other (tone is thus infcrib’d, viz. 6. Carolus quintus Cccfa.r aureo facri Romani Imperii diademate a Clemente feptimo Me- dicao Bononice cxornatur. 7. Vittarn Deiparce Virginis Bononia fub- tr attain ac fubinde reftitutam Maphaus Card. Barbermus Legatus folenni ritu ex- cipit ac recognitam veneratur. 8. Sacra Deiparce Imago a S. Luca depict a ab infejlis imbribus cceliq-, inclementia Bono- niam Findicat. 9. Ingentes Bononienfium copice ab Urbano II. e Caravallenfi Confilio Roma redeunte Sa¬ cra orientals expeditions decorantur cruce. At the upper end of this hall is a great figure of pope Paul III. and underneath is written ; Paulo III. Pont. Max. Joannes Card. Mo- ronius Bonon. Legat. mdxlv. Over a door is infcrib’d ; Aulam banc ubi Bononienfium inclyta fides Paulo III. Jlatuam olim pofuit , in angu- fiiorem formam exornandam curavit Hie¬ ronymus Cardin. Farnefius Leg. A. D. MDCLX. In another room are the effigies of Julius II. and Alexander VII. manIlio C. F. CORDO. 1 LEG XX I. RAPAC PRAEF. EQVIT. EXAcT tribvT. cIvItaT. GALL. FAC. CVR CERTVS. LIB. INAGR. PXL’IV. INFRO PXL IV. A (lately afcent by (teps leads up from 5. Pen-o- the piazza to S. Petronius 's church, the nius - front whereof above the entrance is not finifh’d ; the lower part is crufted over with (tone. The church within is very large, the nave being broad and high, and the ides not much lower, being alfo of a good breadth. The church is not built with regard to the four quarters, as others are, but the high altar here is plac’d fouth- ward, whereas in others it is eaft. At the great door is written in (tone ; Meridiance hujus femitce tota Longitudo auEla titulis ejl fexcenti-millefima pars circuitus Univerfce terra. From this place in the pavement is drawn part of the zodiac, running ob¬ liquely within the body of the church ; thus, A B is the church ; B is the high altar; -ther from C, are the more diftant from C D is the zodiac where at E E, &c. one another, are defcrib’d the figns, which, the fur- On Italy ,] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. On one fide of the zodiac are mark’d At the end of the zodiack is an ellipfis 15 hours, which, the further from C, drawn, and within it is written ; are the more diftant from one another. c . . The figns were thus divided on one 0lJ l ^ lum Nyaonum Decembns die xxi. fide into 68 parts, and on the other into At the other end of the zodiack, on a 250. - long fquare ftone is written; is. 5 ; "55 77s T 'VlJUSpUdofv tOVir/O'l VuSlg y. 'j o . Maxim terrce Circuit II (A III grains dijlantics a Verticc perpendiculi partes cen- lefmitz horce ab occaju ad ortum. Signa Zodiaci defeendentia. S a; A Here one fees the curious and exadf meridionial line, which that rare aftrono- mer Cajjini laid along a great part of the pavement in a brafs circle . It marks a true point of mid-day from June to Ja¬ nuary. See Burnet's travels, p. 168. We went up the leads of the church, and obferv’d the hole the fun beams pafs through to the dial on the pavement j the hole was fhap’d thus, \_ J ; at a the beams ftrike through, and below that we guefs’d there might be a glafs over the picture of the fun, that is painted in the roof of the ifle : This hole is dire&ly over C in the pavement, and in the wall is the meafure of heighth from the roof to tlu. laft-mention’d fquare ftone ; and there is alfo in that wall a narrow black ftone long, with this written ; Perpendiculi pars centefimd. In this and other churches this Lent time was a canvas canopy over that part of the church they preach’d in. The publick fchools have a handfome long cloifter before towards the ltreet ; within is a double portico, the pillars whereof are not fo high and fair as thofe at the fchools in Padua , but the court feems fomewhat broader : In the middle of it is a pillar, with the head of Janus upon it, and this inferib’d on the pedeftal. Here is a neat chapel, which hath the roof and walls well painted : The fchool- rooms are very fair and large, many of which are curioufly painted on the roof and walls. In feveral places are thefe in- feriptions, names, iAc. Under a fmall figure of cardinal Bor- romceus \ 0 S. Carolo Borromceo hoc cedificium in hanc amplitudinem erex. jurijlarutn Univerfitas Gymnafium in Cujlodtam, feipfam in tu- telam , opus hoc in honorem et cultum D. D. Renovarunt in ampliorem forrnam fupe- riores m Prcefidentes Anno mdcxii. Sub aufpiciis illujlrif. ac Rev rendiff. D. Card. Barberini Bonon. de lat. Legati. In one room is a pulpit, about which are feats and rails, and this written •, Sumrna Privilegii Ab Imp.' Ccef FI. Fheodojio juniore Aug. Gymnafio Bononics concejfa. Aha Prcetor judexve quinquennio in Bononienfi Gymnafio Studior. caufa non confumpto ad judicandum accejferit , ejus decreta fententice irritce Junto. Qui Doctor in ordinem afeitus , libro a ma- joris Ecclcfuz Archidiacono non accepta fuerit ejus decreta licet peritorum omnium fuffragiis comprobata , prorfus nulla ejlo. Ludovico Card. Ludovifio S RE Vice Can- cellario Bonon. Archiepifcopo Protectori ac Patruno Optimo utraq\ Scholarum Uni¬ verfitas cioidcxxiv. Idib. Nov. P.P. C. C. The walls of the portici are neatly adorn’d with coats of arms and inferip- tions to popes, legates, profeffors, &c. Trrre are two fair afeents, and above there is a long gallery, like the Dormi- toria in convents, having inferiptions, (Ac. on the walls, and the fchools on each fide. Out Scholarem aliquem ad Gymnafium Bonon . pergentem manu verbove ojfenderit capitis reus ejlo. Qui Magijlratus prove Magijlratu injuriam Scholari illatam perfequi pretermiferit eadem pcend traetor. Anno Domini mdlxvi 1 . f>ui Ilonefiijfuni hujus Conftlii Participes erunt fatli in primis operam dent ut jura , injlituta , mores , confuetudinefq\ omnes quee ad hujus Sc holes commoda auftoritateq ; tuendam 555 Skippon. A Journey thro ? tuendam periineant> fumma cura cuftodi- antur. Reft on Sc holes Max. idemq-, merit us honos ab omnibus habeatur. Legitimi publicar. profefftonum Dies diligen- tiftime obeantur. Part of the 34. Anglenfium. 35. Provincial. 36. Portugalen. 37. Gallorum. 38. Indorum, 39. Anglorum. Over one coat of arms is written ; Profejforum ipforum dignitas quam maxime confervetur. Inter Scholafticorum Nationes aterna piaq\ pax concordiaq\ concilietur. Exornatus ad Urbis et Schoice dignitatem ex auftoritate eorum quorum infignia circum- jefta funt , et ex lotius Confilii locus eft. A. D. MDLXVII. Round the edges of the roof are thefe two verfes ; Efte Pares et oh hoc Concordes Vivite , cum Vos Et Decor , et Studium, et Munus fociarit et ALtas. Secretarii. In another room like the former is in- fcrib’d on the wall ; Magifter ejlo diligent doftus Vigil Veriq-, amator et Alieni commodi Auditor , et tu fis laboris appetens Magiftri Amator et Imitator fedulus. Confultor , hie utcunq-, tempus poftulat Adefto femper publicum negocium Curato , agendum quid fit in preefentia Videto , longe provident in pofterum Caveto , partes fic tuas tuebere. Out of many I tranferib’d the two fol¬ lowing inferiptions; Under them are the arms of feveral nations painted on the walls, viz. 1. Romanorum. (twice) 2. Neapolit. (twice) 3. March, infer. 4. March, fuper. 5. Sicul. (twice) 6. Florent. 7. Pifan. & Lucen: 8. Sardin. & Cyprian. 9. Senen. 10. Spoletan. 11. Ravennaten. 12. Venetorum. 13. Januen. 14. Mediolanen. 15. Theflalen. 16. Longobard. 17. Cceleftin. 18. Romandiol. 19. Datice. 20. Pruten. 2 ligon. 21. Flandren. 22. Boemorum. 23. Polonorum. 24. Ungarorum. 25. Alemannorum. (twice) 26. Navarenfium. 27. Regnum Valent. Majorc. 28. Ragonet. Catel. 29. Turonenfium. 30. Bituricen. 31. Vafcon. 2 Alven. 32. Sabaudiorum. 33. Burgundiorum. D. 0 . M. Hieronymo SRE Cardinali Far- nefto Bonon'uz de latere Legato Gentilitiis Regum Liliis fuoq\ nomine Celebri ob tran- quilitatem Provincice annonam populis cunftis ordinibus miniftratam juftitiam Antonius Eufebius SRI Comes de Konig- ftgg et Rottenfels Dominus in Aulandorf et Stauffen Prior publicos inter applaufus communi juriftarum confenftone tutelari Studiorum Principi perenne hoc ad pofteros monumentum ponit , Anno mdclxi. D. O. M. Francifco Muratorio Anatomico Ordinario Dii vitam date cui ob Anatomen publicam fumma cum fui laude Audito- rumq\ utilitate dofte accurate fceliciterq\ nunc primum abfolutum Eleftores et Syndici hunc diuturnce memories lapidem P. P. MDCVI. Under one infeription was written ; Syndici Anatomies P P. The catalogue of the prefent profeflors is printed in Mr. Ray’s observations. One morning we heard part of an ana- Capponiu? tomy ledrure made by Capponius , who, anat0Tn y when he had done, difputed with an Au- leclure ' guftine friar, and two others of the com¬ pany ; but affoon as they had urg’d an argument, the fludents grew impatient, and ftamp’d and clap’d their hands : It being carnival time fome mafquers came into the anatomy theatre, and drollingly interrupted the difpute : That ended, the profeffor Italy.I Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 557 profeffor came down from his feat, and enter’d the rails, where lay a human body, in which he fkilfully demonftrated the Mufculi Laryngis ; we obferv’d him fome- times to fpeak Latin, and fometimes Ita¬ lian to the auditors. A ztomy The anatomy theatre is a high and theatre, large fquare room, wainfcotted and fairly adorn’d with figures of fome Bolognefe , and the famous phyficians in the world. On Sbrove-Tuefday was the conclufion of the carnival : 1'he cardinal legate, at¬ tended with 2 ^.Switzers, 3 .n d many coaches, made a tour in the ftreets •, feveral in mafquerades were on horfeback, and there was fome expectation of tilting, which they had not by reafon of fome difference among the gentlemen : From the balcony of the palace hung a piece of plate, which was defigned as a reward if there had been any jufting. This evening we renew’d our bolletin tor our ftay three days longer in the city. Feb. 17, being AJh-lVednefday , the face of things was chang’d into a more ferious look : In the morning friars went about the ftreets Tinging very loud, and in S. Pe- tronius*$ church, we faw many people kneel¬ ing before priefts, who took afhes out of a little difh, and with them made the fign of a crofs on their heads, muttering fome- what all the while. Colleges. In Bologna are many colleges, wherein ftudents live, and are maintain’d out of the college revenues: They wear black gowns like the profeffors, with fleeves not fo long and large as the batchelors of arts in Cambridge ; and to diftinguifh what college they are of, every one when he walks abroad throws a tippet over his Lft fhoulder, at the bottom whereof the arms of the founder are wrought in colours. The colleges are, i. Collegia Ancarano : 2. Colleg. Brefciano : 3. Colleg. Ferrerio b Piamontec detto della Viola : 4. Colleg. Mont alto : 5. Colleg. de Nobili, where gen¬ tlemens Tons are inftruCted by the Jefuits : 6 . Colleg. Ongaro b di Zagabrta : 7. Colleg. diPoeti: 8. Colleg. Panolino: 9. Colleg. di Reggio: 10. Colleg. di Spagna oSabinefe , where were two Englijhmen at this time, viz. Jo. King and one Gregory : 11. Colleg. Vives: 12. Colleg. Flamingo: 13. Colleg. della Famiglia di Fiefcbi GenoeJ'e , where there is always fome of that name and family. The SpaniJJo college was ereefted by cardinal AEgidhts Albernofiu , where there are none but fuch as have been doftors, (in Spain ?) and can prove their nobility. Moft of them are civilians •, and out of them are chofen fuch as govern in the kingdom of Naples , and dutchy of Milan. One Fallon an Irijh prieft of that college, Vol. VI. and doCtor there. The college is a pretty Skipi-on. fmall building. Every college hath a prieft that looks after the revenue, &c. In this city are three academies, like Academies thofe at Vicenza and Verona , viz. 1. call’d gl* Ardenti ; 2. Indomiti •, the third is kept at fignior Calderind s houle. We heard two ftories here, one con¬ cerning Hugo Bon Compagno , who was after¬ wards pope Gregory XIII. “ That when “ he was a boy, he and his father’s te- “ nant’s fon planted a pear tree, which “ grew well, and in the mean time Hugo “ was advanc’d to the popedom ; the “ tenant’s fon hearing of it, and fome of “ the pope’s relations threatning to turn “ him out, he goes with a bafket of pears “ gather’d from the foj;e mention’d tree, “ and carries them' to Gregory XIII. en- “ quiring for meff. Hugo being brought “ before him, the fellow difeours’d bluntly “ with him, and prefented him the pears, “ telling him they grew upon the tree “ they planted when they were boys to- “ gtther, and hinted he was in danger of ce being turn’d out of his farm, which the “ pope prefently bellow’d upon him.” The other l ory was of Clement VIII. who was walking incognito to a parifh church on the hills, not far from Bologna , in the way to Florence , met with two or three priefts that were commending the place for its fituation ; and one of them laid, “ If that benefice were his he would “ not care a-for the pope himfelf: “ Clement when he return’d to Rome fent “ for this prieft, who was ftruck with a “ great fear, and could fay nothing but “ only BeatiJJimo Padre , perdonatemi , &c. “ and the pope told him he was the man “ that had fpoken dangerous words, (re- “ peating what he faid about the benefice) “ but prefently gave him that living.” The government is by a legate ; Govern - Vice-legate, who rules in the abfence^^* of the cardinal legate ; Auditore di Cor one, who is a judge cri¬ minal Auditore Generale , who is judge in civils, from whom there is an appeal to the five Auditori di Ructa. N. B. All thefe above-mention’d are made by the pope. The firft of July by courfe enters one of thofe five into their office of Podefia. Flu. Whether the fame with the Auditore di Corone ? The Quaranta , confifting of 50 fena- tors, (butcall’d ^uaranta becaufe formerly but 40, the pope adding ten more, and obliging them to pay 2000 ducats a man for their places) are chofen by the pope out of the nobility for life. 7 C Every A Journey thro ? Tart of the [Italy- Skippow. Every two months there is a rotation among them, one by courfe being made Confaloniero , who ele&s The Antiani , confiding of fix citizens and a doftor of law. Th.z 9 $garanta>or fenate of 50, chufe every four months 16 to determine differences among the traders: We were inform’d that they confided of four fenators, four citizens, four merchants, and four noble¬ men, befides a doctor of law and a notary ; and fome faid there was no certain number of each quality, but that the fenate deeded what number of each they pleafed, only they are obliged to chufe a doedor of law, a gentleman, a citizen, a merchant, and a Capo d* Artifani, whom they call Majfaro , who was this year a fifhmonger. When any of the 16 walks abroad, he hath a boy with a halbert that follows him. Confalo- March 1. N.S. We obferv’d the ce- niero’j en- remonies of a Confaloniero’ s ( Vexillifer termg into Juflitice) entrance into his office: In the bisojp.ee. m0rn j n g j f ro m the cardinal’s to his own palace, find was drewed in the dreets, and in one of his chambers we faw him fitting on a carpet with the old Confalo¬ niero , and the feven Antiani , any one having leave to pafs through and fee them: While they were fitting here, feven of the city trumpets founded in his pa¬ lace, and then play’d on other wind mu- lick •, after them came five city drums, which beat fome time, and then a great company of the poorer fort crouded into the court, and had bread thrown them out of a window, which fome of them receiv’d in bafkets on poles : Verfes in commendation of the new Confaloniero were cad about; then came the guard, or whole company of Switzers , who had each of them two great rings of cake given them, and after that they march’d back, the captain being habited with his red and flit trunk breeches as the common foldiers; after him came three Switzers with long naked fwords on their fhoulders ; then the company followed, in the middle of which were halberts indead of pikes, every Switzer carrying his cake upon his halbert, and the mufketeers on the left arm : A little didance from the Confaloniero' s houfe they gave him a volley of ffiot: Many fervants in liveries, and five with diort diver maces, came then before the old and new Confaloniero , and the doedor of law on his right hand •, the old Confaloniero was in his cloak, and the new one in a diort gown lined with white furr ; the doedor of law was in a profeffor’s gown, lined alfo with fuch furr j.then came fix Antiani in their furr’d cloaks: Thus they proceeded to the cardinal’s palace, where over the entrance a noife of trumpets re¬ ceiv’d them, and the Swifs mufketeers made a lane below, and the halberteers another above, for the Confaloniero , &c. to pafs through into a chamber, where, after a little reding, they went up into a pretty chapel, well painted on the walls, the cardinal going drd, who had a diver crucidx carried before him by a pried, and his train held up by another pried : The cardinal was habited with a fcarlec gown, and half way over it with a fur- plice, and upon that a fcarlet Epomis , with a fmall Cucullus , and his fcarlet fquare cap on : After him followed the new Confaloniero , &c. who with the car¬ dinal perform’d fome devotions before the altar, kneeling againd red velvet dools : Then the cardinal feated himfelf in a chair, with his back againd the altar table, and his cap on, all the red of the company being bare : On his left hand dood a pried in his furplice, and on his right one in a long black gown, at the found of a trumpet, read a good while out of a folio book ; that done, the pried and another perfon kneel’d on each fide of the cardinal, and held before him a large folio, and a fel¬ low dood by, holding a banner •, then came the new Confaloniero and kneel’d down, kifs’d the book and the cardinal’s hand, lays his hand upon the banner, and takes the upper feat of the old Confaloniero> for on the right fide of the chapel was a bench, whereon fird fat the old Confalo¬ niero, &c. After this the banner was carried out, and the Antiani were fworn in the fame manner : At the conclufion the cardinal and the Confaloniero rofe and faid fome prayers where they did at their entrance ; the new Confaloniero day’d in the palace, and the old one, attended with fome Switzers , and a great company of gentlemen, went to S. Petronius , per¬ form’d fome devotion there, and fo re¬ turn’d to his houfe. When the ceremonies in the chapel were ended, a noife of trumpets founded over the palace gate. Feb. j-Z. In the evening was a great proceffion : Fird, all the gentlemen of Vnrtffm. Bononia met at a church call’d del'Ofpidal di .near S. Petronius , and with tapers lighted in their hands march’d two and two up into the choir of S. Petronius , where the cardinal legate was kneeling on a red velvet cufhion before the altar, whereon dood the hod, included in a high pixis •, near the altar three prieds in copes kneeled, and while the gentlemen went round and back again into the body of the church, one of them took off' the top of the pixis, and fet it lower down upon the altar } then the three prieds kneel’d before the altar, and another came and cad Italy. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and. France. 5 $9 call a fcarf of white farfenet or taffaty over the fhoulders of him in the middle, who role up and took the hoft, fixing his eyes upon it, and walk’d between two prielts down the altar Heps, and follow’d the gentlemen, chorifters and canons; at the bottom of the fteps into the choir flood a canopy ready, which was carried over the prieft that held the hoft •, then this proceflion was made round the church, firft the gentlemen, next the chorifters, canons, cardinal, with part of his Switzers before him, (his train held up) and gen¬ tlemen in cloaks lin’d with furr •, at the middle of the afcent the gentlemen Hop’d, and the chorifters, canons, hoft without the canopy, legate, i£c. went up through a lane of them to the altar, where the hoft was fet down ; after fome devotions the cardinal took it up, and wav’d it to and fro in the fight of the people that were on their knees very devoutly. All the time of this laft proceflion there was mufick, fometimes the organ play’d alone, and fometimes the chorifters lung alone, fometimes both together, and at intervals a hoife of trumpets. Silk. We faw the fattura or making of filk thread : In a long room we had a pleafant fight of the winding of Seta di Greggia , confifting of five or fix Bavi, as they come from the Thecce .- This filk is made up in great fkins upon fwifts, and then in the filo • • * * unwound from thence, and wound upon a little fpindle by a long axis, with a great many circles of cogs ; many of thefe axes go crols the gallery, and every circle of cogs moves a little wheel that turns the fpindle, which draws the filk from the reels or fwifts that hang upon long axes below the fpindles : In the middle of every fwift hangs a little wooden ball, from a ring of wood through which the axis of the fwift pafles, and the ring being loofe, the ball always hangs down¬ wards, tho’ the fwift be turn’d round : The threads, before they are wound upon the fpindles, go through little eyes, that guide them right upon the fpindles, which eyes are all faftned in a long bar of wood •, and to keep the threads from lapping all in one place of the fpindle, the bar with eyes is drawn backwards and forwards by a fpoke that is faftned to it, and goes into a furrow’d and indented circle in an axis j ex.gr. A B is the axis 5 i i the indented far- Sk IP POM. row’d circle ; c d is the long bar of wood in which the eyes are faftned ; d is the fpoke: Thofe indentures in the circle make the bar move backward and forward : Be¬ fore the filk pafles the eyes in the bar* it refts upon a long tube of glafs. This en¬ gine in the gallery receiv’d its motion from fuch a one as we obferv’d at Vicenza : Below all (there being three or four floors) were three wheels mov’d by an overfhot water, which ran in neat channels of brick, which wheels were in a pretty room like a cellar, and mov’d the feveral machines above. Organfine is filk made of two threads of Seta di Greggia , and is of four forts ; 1. Soprafinijjimo •, 2. FiniJJimo ; 3 and 4. (which is the) worft fort. On the outfide of the palace garden wall is painted a fellow hanging by the heels on a gallows, for carrying the trade of organfine from hence to Genoa and Pia¬ cenza -, under him is written, Proditore della Patria. By the favour of doctor Ovidius Mont- The cabinet albanusi a profeflbr, we were fhewn in S. at the fiege of Brema. Within this wall is a fquare building moated round, built by the Vifconti, for¬ merly lords of Milan. The governor of the caftle lives there, whofe name is don Balthafar Marquadd. W ithout the French wall is a ditch, and a final 1 bulwark at each of the four cor¬ ners, and below the wall is a very ftrong newfortification, with good bulwarks fac’d with brick, having a deep broad ditch without, and between every bulwark a hornwork, and a line round all: Towards the front are two ftrong old towers, built by the Vifcontf as appears by their arms on them : The foldiers were now about 600, (to defend it 6000 are needful) who have fair buildings within the walls of the caftle to lodge in. This caftle feems fomewhat lets, but is much ftronger than that at Antwerp : Within it rifes a river that drives a powder-mill, and runs away under the walls : Adjoining to the old caftle (the governor’s palace) is a large pnion, where at this time was kept pri- foner the governor of Trig, for delivering it up too eafily to the French. On a tower of the governor’s palace is the figure of an angel without a head, which they fay was fhot off by a male¬ factor, (condemn’d to die) who aim’d at it, and was therefore pardon’d. Without the caftle is a guajla, or open X place round about, and there is a ftone pillar thus infcrib’d ; D. O. M. Philippo III. Hifpaniarum Rege ac Mediolani Duce. D. Jofeph Vafquez de Azuna hujus Arcis pnefedus hanc co- lumnam et fubjedum ipfi lapidem in quo Sand us Martyr Protojius hujus Civil at is et Arcis defenfor fecuri percujfus creditur , e tenebris in quibus diu jacuerat in lucem revocavit Anno Domini mdcii. xiv Kal. Julii. Regnante pofiea Philippo IV. cum nova eidetn arci propugnacula extrinfecus adftruerentur cunique proxime foffa hue obverfa primeevum ejufdem lapidis et co¬ lumns Jitum arreptura fibi ejfet Don Joan. Vafquez Coronado intimus ejufdem Regis Conjiliarius et e Regii hac in Provincia Exercitus Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 579 Exereiius Magiftro Generali Preefetlus hums arcis probatiffimus alteriq-, illi pietate non vnpar eandem columnam et lapiaem dnno 1656. 17 Kal. Julii hue transferri juffit ut perpetuum hie ejfent tanti Mar- tyris et Patroni Monimentum. Making of In this city we faw the manner of making Unfed oil, linfeed, walnut and rape oil: Firft, they take the kernel of walnut, linfeed, &c. and grind it with a ftone, (as apples with a ftone in fome parts of England) mov’d round by a horfe, and to 15 or 16 lb. put a boccafe of water •, then they put it into a dry cauldron, where it is only made hot, and after that, they put it into a hair cloth, and lay it in a prefs, where the oil is forced out thus: S. Mark. Jeflits. Palazzo tic Marino. i * Cl/ % At a a fellow turns and winds up the cord b, which is faftned at the hook d to a ftrong beam c, which is put into the ferew i i, and forces down a heavy beam e e , that lies upon a bag of feed upon a hollow wood //. S. Mark’s, church belongs to the Augu- ftine friars, where is a little chapel nigh the weft door, the walls whereof are well painted ; and over the altar the roof is rarely painted with angels, &c. the walls of the cloifter are alfo well pictur’d, and in the Sacrifiia is a rich pidture. The Jefuits is a pretty church, where we obferv’d a pulpit and confefiors feats very rarely carv’d ; and one of the altars hath two pillars in a leaning pofture, fupported by the hands of two angels. Palazzo de Marino hath a fair ftone front, is very great, but not yet finifh’d ; we were told that there being no ifliie of the family, the king of Spain came to be owner, and his chancellor lives there. In Milan there are many jewellers, who make boxes, feals, and other knacks of cryftal ; they fell cryftal ftugio’s (tweefers) for a piftole apiece. In one fhop we law a large branch’d candleftick of cryftal, valued at 400 doppie, and a large fcollop cup of cryftal, worth 40 doppie, another cup of one entire piece of cryftal, that held a boccale and a half, which the workman intended to fend into England. In the grinding of cryftal they firlt ufe fmiris and Water, and at laft faffomorto. When they make cryftals hollow, they ufe oil of olives. They make here feveral forts of fweet cakes, viz. 1. Cu * * gon, fhap’d like a Rhombus : 2. Muftachin biancho, made in an oval figure: 3. Muftachin Negro: 4. Nevifalp a long cake : 5. ’Porte, a little kind of tart: 6 . Armandole: 7. Coronea, which is white bread made into a ring. One evening a tittle after Ave-Mary Sjkij>j>on. time we obferv’d on the pedeftaj of St. Carlo’s ftatue in the ftreet? a crucifix ftand- ing between two lanthoras, and people on each fide the way repeating their prayers aloud. March 9. 0 . S. was a great feftival fo- lemniz’d for St. Jofeph, and before the church of that name was a ftage buiit, and fix or feven figures of men and women (reprefenting perlons in the facred ftory) were plac’d on it. There was a great re¬ fort to this place all the day, and feveral perfons waited about the church with difhes alking peoples charity ; and we faw this proceflion, firft went two bearing ftandards vroce/fon. in red liveries, next came fix trumpets in the fame habit, with broad red hats and filver hatbands •, then follow’d fome of the magiftrates, and after them the chief traders of the city, each having a banner carried before them, with the arms, &c. of their profeflion. In a fair and large ftreet is a pillar erebted with a lyon on the top, and on the pedeftal inferiptions, one of which is as follows, viz. Leonem hunc Orientali Portce infigne ob- jedlum et proftigatis hoftibus monimentum Mediolanenfes Antiqui pofuere. 1628. The Seminarium hath a ftately large The Semi¬ court, and one tall portico over another n3rium round about j the portici have double pillars: There are feveral fair rooms, viz. the refeftory, and Hermathenceum , a long and arched place, adorn’d with arms, pictures and inferiptions to S. Ambrofe , Gafpar Vicecomes, Eedericus Borromeeus , (Thomas Aquinas, Ccefar Manlius Cardin. Alfonfo Litta, now archbifhop of Milan. The picture of S. Carlo with this in- feription ; Divum Carolum hujus Seminarii Fundatorem Patronum, Parentem optimum agnofee , reverere. Sped a Innocentia Sandlitatis Si- mulachrum, inferendus Ccelo crat quern Pius Nepotem numeraret, demitt endus Ccelo qui Orbem Univerfum emendaret, debuit profana Urbs ab extero nata , fan- flior et caftior renafei abs cive nafei Orbis potuit nonnifi abs Deo, renafei ille nonnifi abs Carolo, ipfa quee cunbla corripuerat Epidem. pepercit Carolo , non deerant vi¬ delicet Ccelo Dei, fed deerant Ecclefuz Caroli. In this room do6tors of law are made; 150 ftudents live in this feminary, and have their diet and lodging in a long chamber •, and there are profeflors that read to them. The Collegium Helveticum hath a fair Collegium front, and two courts which will be very Helveti- handfome cuin ' A Journey thro’ Pari of the [ Italy, Skippon. handfome when the building and portici are finifh’d: S. Carlo Borromceo founded it, and gave maintenance for 60 ftudents of Switzerland , and fome of Italy ; they wear red gowns with long hanging fleeves, over a black caffock. In a little chapel are a great many fkulls, thigh bones, iZc. heaped up in a hand¬ fome order, fo that they cover’d all the infide of the walls: On the altar ftood a crucifix between two fkulls, and on the forepart of the altar table was written ; Si ha per aHtica traditione che quelli ejlinti Fidele al tempo di S. Ambrofio fono quefii qui repojli che tu vede dunq-, con preci et elemofyne Socorelie e dagliata che ate infiniti favor i , ne render ano. U anno de Nofir a Salute ccclxxxx. On the outfide of the chapel is infcrib’d, D. 0 . M. Ubi Civis Catholicus Servatus prcelio cum Arrianis cominijfo et triumpbo fuperftes mane at cetermm pietas in tumulum colie git. D. 0 . M. Ne parce Civis Concivis fui par- tibus particulam addere et off affern dare, J: negas inhumato, inhumanus es. a legcml. We we told that S. Ambrofe , after the fight between the Catholicks and Arians, pray’d it might be reveal’d how to diftin- guifh the bodies of one party from the other, and his defires were anfwer’d, when he found all the Catholicks with their faces upwards, and the others downwards; fo he takes the Catholicks and laves their bodies together, and their bones are in this confervatory. In S. Stephen’s church is a pillar nigh the weft end, whereon is a ftone wheel, and this infcription *, Quifquis hanc fufpicis rotam monumentum habes cruentiffuni prcelii Catholicos inter et Arrianos Divo Ambrofio Ecclefce Me- diolanenfis Antifiite cujus precibus concur- rens ante promifcuus c a forum fanguis Ca- tholicorum cum Hcereticorum fanguine, re¬ pente in Rotce figuram concretus Sacrum a profano difcrevit , cognomentumq', fecit huic Bafilicce quod in ejus pavimento quod ex adverfo rota, facet cavus lapis prodi- giose hue devolutum pium cruorem exor- buit, Pu memoriam Venerare miraculi Vefiigium adora. Cabinet of Signior Antonio Maria Milio, an inge- rarities. nious prieft, fhew’d us a great many ex¬ cellent pictures, and variety of other cu- riofities, both natural and artificial, at fignior.houfe, where we ob- ferv’d thefe things following: Many agats and precious ftones: Furniture for a table, a falt-feller, knives, &c. all of Lapis La¬ zuli : Natural landfkips in ftone, repre- fenting towns, mofs, &c. A Sanclina, or holy water pot, of precious ftones: A cru¬ cifix, and all things belonging to an altar, adorn’d with gems: Fair cabinets: Many mathematical inftruments : A pair of vir¬ ginals, richly fet with rare agats: Variety of fruits, &V. in wax : A double cage of wood convey’d into a glafs globe, which was cut into long pieces, and joined toge¬ ther within a larger and entire glafs globe, thus. f A. The two fquares are the cages *, the inner circle is the globe cut into pieces, and fet together again *, the outmoft circle is the entire globe, with a little hole for the handle h to pafs in at. Many other glafs globes, with bunches of wax-grapes convey’d into the cavity at a little hole. A perfpettive cabinet, which was thus contriv’d ; A B is a fquare,which on each fide had a pretty reprefentation of a gar¬ den *, C is the handle that turns the fquare B with the feveral fides upwards, and each fide had a garden underneath that might be turn’d up, fo that there were eight gar¬ dens, all pleafantly reflected by glafles within the cabinet. Praftne is of oil olive colour. This prieft told us that the little figures of wood we faw dance upon a glafs at Septala’s were made of the pith of elder, over fmall pieces of iron, and that there was a loadftone underneath. That the ball which feemid to afeend was but de- ceptio vifus, being reflected exaftly by a Speculum, as it runs downwards. Cryftals are colour’d red, &c. by putting it into fublimated mercury, and arfenick in a crucible, and fetting it over a very hot fire, for the cryftal will then crack, and imbibe the tinefture of thofe liquors. We fiw here a very large granate, fet under the foremention’d fanftine. He fhew’d us the manner of the ball’s running about a tower, viz. A P B is a tower with a fpiral channel about it, in which defeends the ball c, and falls out at d into the frame ABCD, where it lights upon /, the end of a little piece of wood e f. , which turns on an axis nigh f ; and this falling down of the ball lifts up the end e, and (whilft the ball runs in at£ into the bottom of a tin pipe h i, and refts on a piece of wood z, which thereabouts fills the cavity of the pipe) that pulls up a wire e k, crofs the inclining and winding channel l m, againft that wire e k , refts a bullet, which, when the wire is up, runs out at m, and falls into a leather Italy.) Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. i leather bago, that defcends with the weight of the bullet to q, where it is thrown out, the bag having a ring at the bottom about a ftiff wire n q, fix’d to the fide of the frame AC: At q the bag and bullet refts againft a little piece of wood which moves on an axis near the end of it r, and the bag prefilng upon it, pulls down the cord s t , and that draws down the end of ano¬ ther piece of wood t v, (which hath an axis in the middle) and fo forces up the fork’d wood v x , and makes a bullet go out of the fork x, and run againft the wire k, where it flops till e k is pull’d up, &c. Note , That the fork x is below the fu- perficies of the channel, and before it is forc’d up, that bullet refts in a hollow of it, but being rais’d the bullet runs to k, then another bullet fucceeds at x. Note alfo , That the diftance from o to <7, mult be as long as that from p to h, becaufe when the bag defcends to q, by the communication of a firing, (faftned to the bag at o, and moving over a pulley aty>) the piece of wood z is pluck’d up the length of the channel h i , and when the bag is at q, the ball falls into the fpire at w. Note , That this ball will afcend and defcend no longer than there are bullets in the channel / m. Vol. VI. This prieft was more communicative Skippon. and obliging then fignior Septala. The Domo is a noble and large building, ifteDomo. crufted over with a white marble, and adorn’d with many curious ftatuesof faints* &Y. round the outfide •, the eaft end is quite finifh’d, but the fteeple and the roof of the body of the church are not : The portico at the weft end will be very ftately when it is finifh’d, having rare carv’d work in the front of it: The roof of the church is high, and fupported by four rows of pillars ; before the entrance into the choir is an odtogonal ftone rail, where is enfhrined the body of S. Carlo , that devout people kneel to, and in a large hole of the pavement is a net that receives their charity. Round the outfide of the choir is fine carving in ftone. A fair mo¬ nument here, with this infcription ; Marino Caracciolo Neapol. llluftri genere Orto , £hti plurimis pro Pontiff. CceJ's.fun- Auseft legationibus primam Carolo V. Imp. ad Aquafgrani Coronam impofuit , Anglos ei conjunxit et Venetos ac demum a Paulo III. Pont. Max. in Cardinalium cooptatus ordinem dum Provinciam Mediolan. ab eodem Carolo fibi creditum regeret im~ portund morte maxima cum Reip. Chri- Jliance jaclura fublatus eft. v Kal. Feb. m d xxxv iii. annos r.atus lxix. Jo. Baptifta Fratri Opt. We went up the fteeple, which had after every three or four fteps a landing place : The ftatues of a Vifconti , S .Cerinus, Marco Carello , and many others, we ob- ferv’d ; that Carello gave 300cecchini to¬ wards the building of this church. The rails and the pinacles of the fteeple ar^ more curioufly wrought than thole at Strasburg : In one pinacle is the figure of the architect, and about it is written, Jo. Antonius Ilomodeus Vene. Pe. Fadrice M‘ Architect us. The wings of the church and the eaft end, which are finifil’d, are arched over with great.. From the fteeple we took a view of this large and round city, and the circumjacent country. A handfome piazza before the Domo. The archbifhop’s palace is ftately, hav- A-chbps ing two courts, one of which hath a fair pAnce. portico within it. In the piazza di Mercanti is a tall ftatue, eredted to Philip II. thus infcrib’d •, Juftitice Simulachrum Quod ex antiquo Pii IV. inftituto collocandum hie dixerant I C Mediolanen. In Philippo II. Rege Catholica exprefferunt , Magno conneftabili Jo. Velafco feliciter iteruvi gubernante , MDCXI. The government^ of this city is by a Govtm- great council of all the noblemen, who menu meet once a year about Chriftmas to chufe 7 I A 582 Skippcw. Journey thro ’ Part of the [hah. A teller council of 24, none of which mult be longer than two years in office. There are 12 fenators for civil affairs, part Italians and part Spaniards ; thefe are call’d Potentijf. Rex. Sixty Cavallieri , who are Milanefe , and are for life, who eleCt out of themfelves by ballot 12. Qu. Whether the fame with the 12 fenators ? The Curia di Juftitia confifts of 17 or 18, who firfl hear criminal caufes •, but from thence there is an appeal to the 24, and from the 24 to the governor. There is alfo an appeal from the lower courts to the 24 in civil caufes. A Podejla for civils; A Capitaneo for criminals, both chofen by the city. Two 1 ‘ribunali. Two Pfuaflores. The governor is fent out of Spain ; he hath a council of war, and a council of ftate. He is captain general of the fol- diers, except thole of the caftle, who have a Caftellano immediately under the king of Spain. The governor in time of peace hath little to do (fcarce his vote). The prelent governor’s name is Don Louis de Ponte Leon , who fucceeded the marquifs Caraceni. Leti fays, “ That in Milan 24 noble- tc men, who are dou. Whe¬ ther the fame with the Camera di Conti that hears fome civil caufes? This city is well fituated on a rifing ground nigh the Po , which here receives the river Dcira into it. The walls and outworks, &c. are good. In Piemont are 15 marchefe, 50 counts, and 60 fignorie. There are 30 fortreffcs, and it si faid the duke can raife 80,000 fcldiers. Voi.. VI. I he people do generally fpeak French Skippon as well as Italian, and they count them- felves neither in France nor Italy. The wo¬ men are drels’d after the French mode. Titrinis noted for making of oiled coats, Making of which, they fay, were invented by one °‘ l * eMth Giacomo Mdrigi ; and the fattura of it is " C ‘ ftill kept as a iecret. We only learn’d that they ufe bees-wax, linfeed oil, and verdegreafe; and we faw linen cloth ftretch’d on wooden frames, and be- fmear’d with the compofition twice on each fide, and dry’d in the fun. A razzo or yard is equal to 23^ inches, lieafures. and they have but one meafure for filk and cloth. A pound — i2-| inches. We were told, that about 16 miles from Furin, in the way to Savona , is mount Vin or Mans Regalis , where a red and me¬ dicinal earth is found. Hiring three horfes for four Savoy livres, we rode about three miles to a new palace of the duke’s call’d Venerie Roy ale, as it is Generic written on the front of it, with the year Ro y alc - 1659. where we entred a neat court with a portico within ; two fides of it hath a double portico, and round about were fix’d many flags horns with infcriptions, one of which I tranfcrib’d, viz. J’ay efte dejlornee Maturin et I’eramano au- pres de la Cajfine de prawns , e pris an mefme lieu . le 13. d'Auft. 1653. Next we came into a larger court, where at the further end was the chief building of the palace, and on one fide, a long and fair liable well furniffi’d with horfes. In the middle of the court a foun¬ tain is intended, and a garden making on the oppofite fide to the liable. In a pretty hall are fair and large pictures of hunting, wherein are reprefented the duke of Savoy and his late wife on two ftately horfes •, 2. the duke of Bavaria and his dutchefs ; 3. the duke of Parma and his lady; 4. prince Philibert ; and 5. two court ladies, all on horfeback. In the other rooms are many pictures of birds, &c. fome very lafcivious. Here were large looking-glades and fome hand- fome beds. Where the beds flood, the fellow that fhewed us the palace, bade us be uncover’d. A fmall chapel where the patron faints of hunting, S. Hubert , S. JEgidius , See. are painted on the walls. Over the high altar is the picture of our Saviour’s paffion between two flags horns. Many white and other pheafants (about 100) were kept together in a yard. A little river runs clofe by this palace; and the adjacent country feems proper for hunting, which this duke is extremely addicted to. 7 K In A Journey thro ’ Part of the {Italy. Skifpon. In our return this evening to ’Turin , we met with the duke in his coach and fix horfes, with many attendants, going to la Venerie. He hath another palace called Millefiore , three miles another way from Turin : and juft without the city, is Valentin , a third palace of the duke’s. The Parco is a pleafant fhaded place by the fide of the river Doira. Troteftants At Turin we were told that the Gene- in theval- i r i nes or Barbetti live in a valley of the cerne^An P lemont -Alps, called Lucerne , and are the grone, only proteftants in Italy. They have no Pragdas. towns but live difperfed in houfes and vil¬ lages among the mountains. They are about 15000 people in all, 1500 or 2000 of which are ftout fighting men, and are divided into 15 companies. One Jean Janeval is their chief captain, and a good foldier. The duke of Savoy is their prince, who endeavoured by force to alter their religion, &c. but they defended them- felves in the ftrait paffages of the moun¬ tains, and kill’d many of his foldiers. Oliver Cromwel affifted them with monies; and by the mediation of the cantons of Zurich and Berne , they were reconcil’d to the duke. Thefe proteftants fay they have been of that religion for 1200 years. Leti fays, that at Mondovi ( Mons Re- galis ) 3 5 miles from Turin , the inhabitants are divided ftill into the fadlions of Guelphs and Ghibellins. The Guelji are known by wearing a black or white feather on the right fide of their cap. They lay knives, ipoons, and forks on the right fide of the trencher, break the bread on the fide, and cut apples lengthways, and lemmons crofsways. The women carry nofe-gays on the left fide. The Ghibellini do juft contrary. March 17. We hired four horfes of a Vitturine for \\ Spanijh piftoles, to carry four of us to Genoa , the Vitturine going a foot, and paying for himfelf and the horfes on the road. We left Turin and rode thro’ a fuburb of it called Borgo del Po, and pafs’d a bridge over that river, and then went a mile by the river’s fide, under a ridge of hills adorned with many pretty and plea¬ fant palaces. After that, we came into a narrow ftony valley, and afcended a fteep clayey hill 5 not far from the foot where¬ of grew thefe plants, Dens Caninus flo. albo *, Viola bulbofa ; Doronicum ojfic. Hepatica tri¬ folia ; Hyacinthus Botryoides. From this hill we went down to Chier , a large wall’d town five miles from Turin , indifferently built, having in the middle of it a trium¬ phal arch of brick eredled to Viftor Ame- deus, this duke of Savoy* s father. We then travell’d a valley full of meadows and paftures, and two miles brought us to a large village called . . . and a mile and an half thence we went by the walls of Villa Nova ; and one mile further we baited at . .. a little village. In the afternoon we rode over fhady hills, and pafs’d by no confiderable town or village. Towards the evening we came into another vailey, and twice forded a river that runs into the Tanaro. This night, 20 miles from Turin , we lodged in Afie, a place indif- Afte. ferently walled, and guarded by foldiers, who let us go in and out without exami¬ nation. The houfes here are but mean. March 18. We travell’d three or four miles by the river Taner* s fide, having it on the right hand ; and in a bank, as alfo on the ffiore, we found great variety of ftonesrefemblingoyftersjfcallops,cockles, pedines, and belemnites; and the tubuli Jlriati , which we firft faw at Rofachio*s m Venice , and are the ftalks of Equifetum pe¬ trified. We rode meadow ground and fome corn fields, and went by a large village call’d Non , and Felizan , which was formerly walled ; and fix miles from thence, baited at Alexandria , a large and Aleflan- well fortified city, the works whereof are dria. now repairing. It is divided into two parts by the Taner , which feems as big here as the Po near Turin ; and we went over a fair long brick bridge, with a hand- fome cover fupported by ftone pillars on each fide. A foldier accompanied us from the gate to the inn, where an officer came to us, and civilly afked what news, &c. The houfes here are meanly built and low. The cathedral is not confide¬ rable, but hath a large piazza before it ; and at one corner of the piazza is a tri¬ umphal arch eredled to Phil. IV. and his queen, as is intimated by thefe infcripcions. D. O. M. SereniJJimce Mari.e Anna; cumpo- tentijfimo Hifpaniarum Rege no fir0 Phi¬ lippa I III. augufiifiimum Connubium Ale¬ xandria Civitas gratulata triumphale ex- citavit monumentum aternitati. Profilite Icetitiis omnibus fortunatiffimi Cives fores aperuifiis toti invidendas orbi utriufa\ orbis complexuras majefiatem non claufuras. Excipe utriq\ Soli aaoratum Verticem ryoleS ambitiofa Ccefarum fortunam Vehit Aufiri- acorum hoc efi fujnmam quodq-, mirere magis dum tranfit , fugit. Ingredere expellatiffima Regina plaudentibus dudum excepta animisfidelijfimce civitatis. On the top of the arch are four marble ftatues, two kings and two queens. Hac ne tranfeas Via , quin dicas Ave Ma¬ ria , is written under a picture of the vir¬ gin Mary at the forementioned bridge. After dinner we were ftopt at the gates by the fearchers, who begg’d a little piece Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. piece of money ; then we rode a little way and ferried the river Bormia, paying io foldi a man ; from hence we travelled in an open plain of corn fields, &c. and pafs’d by Figarole, a village belonging to the dutchy of Milan, and 12 miles from Alef- fandria we lodged at Nove, a large town and pretty well built, it belongs to the flate of Genoa. The corn fields in Piedmont and thefe parts, are not fo neatly cultivated as in Lombardy, having no rows of trees, The women hereabouts have yellowifh hair, which they wear hanging down about their fhoulders. March 19. We rode over many plea- fant and fhady hills, and after five miles riding pafs’d through Gavi, a pretty little walled place, fituated under a high hill, on the top of which is a flrong caflle fairly built, and flrengthned with good works; five miles further we baited at Voltagio , a well built town. From hence we mounted a winding way about eight or ten miles, and came to the top of a high mountain, whence we had a profped of the fea, and Bor go di S. Pietro nigh Genoa •, and we defcended five miles in a paved way to a fair inn called Ferre d'amico , and rode five miles further in a narrow valley to Genoa. From that inn we obferved the fides of the hills well peopled, and built with many houfes not ill built •, many chefnut trees grow on the hills, and near Genoa are large olive grounds. After we left Volta¬ gio we met and overtook about 500 or 600 mules and affes laden. Borgo di S. Pietro is by the fea fide, well ftored with pleal'ant and flately palaces, and gardens full of orange-trees, &fc. When we had pafs’d through this Borgo, we entred the GENOA, outwall of Genoa nigh the Pharos, and rode by the haven’s fide, then came thro* a gate where a guard of foldiers was kept, and a good diftance further came to the gate of the inner wall, where we deliver’d our fire-inftrument to an officer. This night we v/ent to the palace, and took a bulletin, which was after this form, viz. Prcejlantiffimo Magijlrato della Conftgna della Serenijf. Republica di Genoa. Si Concede licentia a P. S. &c. d y allogiare ■per Notte 4. in Donato Rinaldo, con che non accotnpagni Giovani di Notte, ne porti arme fenza licenza, altrimente rejli nulla, et oltre la pcna dell'armi incorra in la pena, che ft da. a forajlieri, quali dimorano nella Cittd fenza boletto, e cio d' Or dine Del Prejlantijfuno Magijlrato della Con- figna in Genoua. Alii 29 di Marzo 1664. Govern- The government of this commonwealth merit. fee j n jyj r Ray's obfervation, page 253, and in my collection of governments. The weather was, 22, 23, and 24 Skippon. March, very windy and cold, and on the mountains within the walls of the city much fnow fell, tho’ fcarce any fell where the houfes of the city are. There is a proverbial faying of this place, viz. Huomini fenza fede, Donne fenza Vergogna Mare fenzapefce, & Montague fenza arbore. Which lafl is not true, the hills being covered with wood. No coaches are ufed here, but a great ofoms. many horfe-litterscarry’d ufually by lufty mules. None except foldiers, or fuch as have li¬ cence, can wear fwords, piftols, Lie. in the night time. If any do, and are apprehended by the sbirri (who are up and down the ftreets) they are punifhed. When any one is kill’d, the murderer flies to the next church. Montferrat wine drunk in this city ', it is red, and of a very pleafant tafle, as if made with rafp-berries. If one that kills another flies to Corftca, they fay he is free from juftice ; and fo if any efcapes from Corftca to Genoa. The fiffi-market afforded variety oi Fifr-mar* flrange filhes, which are fold by a few fifh-* ff * mongers that are locked up in a great iron cage, where they weigh out the fifh to the buyers who crowd about the cage. The price of fifh is fet by officers, and the fifh- men pay two thirds toll. If any fifherman does amifs, his thumbs are tied together behind him, and in that pofture he (lands fome time within the cage. There are few fifhmongers flails befides what are in the cage. The Jefuits church is fmall, but very jefuiti rich, being curioufly adorn’d with marble church. and inlaid work, gilding, pi< 5 tures, &V. The duke hath a private paffage out of his palace into this church, and hath a gallery here very richly gilt. The Jefuits have a good interefl in Genoa. The Dominicans church is an old and Domini- long building. cans ch ' Strada Nova is a narrow flreet, confifl- Strada ingonly of nine or ten palaces, which are Nova * all very magnificent. One of the palaces Pa i ace 0 f belongs to prince Doria, who is an admiral prince Do- of the king of Spain's gallies, and honour’d ria - by him with the title of duke, who hath another palace without the inner wall nigh the haven, which we faw, and obferv’d feveral particulars there, viz. on the roof of an entry is the picture of an ox, who always turns his tail to the beholder, which way foever he looks. The garden is di¬ vided into quarters by myrtle and box- hedges ; and in the middle is a flately foun¬ tain, having a large figure of Neptune, &c. made A Journey thro 7 Vcirt of the [Italy. made of white marble ; a fine walk over a portico which looks towards the haven ; a long and very high bird-cage or Avia- rium, made ol iron bars and brafs wire ; within it grew tall trees. There were two or three fountains, but at this time few rare birds in it. Behind the palace we afcended a hill, where there is a fair fifh- pond, which is fupply’d with water by a pretty fountain out of a neighbouring rock. Here is a huge ftatue of Jupiter, and under him a ftone thusinfcrib’d, 6 hd glace il gran Roldano Cane del Principe Gio. Andrea Doria , il quale per la fua molta fede e benevolentia fu meritevole di quefta mejnoria et perche . . . merita fi grandemente d’ambi-due le leggi fu anco giudicato in morte doverfi collocare il fuo cenere apprejjo il fupremo Giove veramente degno de la realc Cuftodi. The prefent prince Doria is a child. He hath thefe titles in the kingdom of Naples, Principe d'Angri , D’Avello, di Melfi, Du- cadd Avigliano, d'Evoli, id Conte di Capaccio. On Palm-Sunday we obferv’d the people with palm branches wrought into crofies and other figures. The hofpital hath but a mean outfide, tho’ within are fair rooms. Below are four which make a -{-, where the fick lay on iron bedheads cleanly kept. In niches of the wall are the ftatues of the moil noted be¬ nefactors, with infcriptions to them. The boys are together in one fide, and the wo¬ men have an apartment above ftairs, and are look’d after by nuns; the men by Je- fuits. Many baftard wenches are maintain’d here, who are clad in blue, and marry away, &c. Over the entrance into the hofpital, is written, Egregius Vir Bartolomceus Bofcus IC celeber- rimus, primus hujus Xenodochii fundator Anno mccccxxiii. Five governors chofen every year, go¬ vern this hofpital. On the EuefdayAx.tr Palm-Sunday, they told us, the women of this hofpital may be feen, and not at other times, by Grangers. Spinola' s palace is curioufiy painted on the outfide by one Cambiaza , a Genoefe. Within the houfe is a double portico, the uppermofl of which is painted on the walls with the chief cities of Italy, &c. Strada Barba is not much inferior to Stra- da Nova, being a new ftreet that confifts of eight or nine palaces, one or them belong¬ ing to Fra. Maria Barba, we faw: It hath within a triple portico, one over ano¬ ther. The rooms were kept very neat, and richly adorn’d with antientand modern fta¬ tues, and excellent pictures of S. Francis , S. Ifierom, a Venetian lady drawn by her- felf, S. Paul's converfion, S. Francis tempt¬ ed by the devil in feveral fhapes, tapeftry with excellent imagery work, a looking- glafs adorned round about with curious figures of horfemen, &c. in filver. A plea- fant orange garden belongs to this houfe, and three fair fountains in it. The Annunciata is a church of the dif- Annunci- calceat Francifcans, the roof whereof is au * richly pictured and gilt, and fupported by curious marble pillars: the altars, not yet finifhed, were ftately, and built of marble. This colt was beftow’d by a noble Genoefe. The duke’s palace is a large building Duke’s with a great area or court, where are two t alace - ftatues of marble. Under one is inferib’d, Jo. Andrea Dorics Patrice Libertatis Confer- vatori S C P. Under the other, Andrece Derive quod Rempublicam diutius op- preffam prifimam in libertatem vindica- verit, Patri provide Patria appellato Se- natus Genuenfis immortalis memor benefeii Viventi pofuit. Four or five hundred German foldiers are a conftant guard here. The armory at the palace is furnifh’d Armory with arms for 30,000 men. We faw feve¬ ral arms made for Genoefe women in the year 1311. who had defign’d themfelves for the wars in Palaftina ; a leather cannon; a halberd with two piftols in it; and a fhield with 120 piftols. We faw fome of the duke’s chambers, which are furnifh’d only with his private goods. He fits in the audience chamber under a canopy of ftate; the walls are hung with curious hangings exactly repre- fenting the figures of men, &c. in the ftory of Adam and Eve in paradile. In one room were two large maps of Genoa, and two pictures of Columbus. One reprefents him fixing a crofs on the American fhore, and beating down the Indian idols •, the other relates how he prefented his difeo- veries to king Ferdinand and queen Ifa- bella. The duke’s chapel is neat, and the walls well painted with the ftory of Colum¬ bus, &e. Over his placing the crofs in America is this written, Cbriftophorus Columbus Genuenfis mundo ve- teri novum, novo veterem patefecit et Deum. In the lefler council-room the duke, Gu- bernatori and Protedlori fit at the upper end within a round rail. The great council- room hath a roof rarely carved in wood. At the upper end is alfo a round rail, and in the walls are marble ftatues to Ja¬ nus Grillus, Julius Sale, Too. Ragio , Paulus Spinola , Baptifta Grimaldus, Anfaldus Gri- maldus, Vincent Odonus, Fr. Lercano , jE li¬ anas Spinola, We Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 589 We faw the duke habited in a red velvet gown, with large fleeves, like the Cambridge batchelor of arts, but fome- what fhorter; the wings of the gown like our aldermens. His / | \ cap of red velvet was fhap’d in- ^ to a high fquare, thus: The Gubernatori and Protottori wear black velvet gowns, and fuch fquare caps, with ruffs about their necks. We had fome dilcourfe with Durazzi , a Genoefe gentleman, who had been in England , and an ambaffador in France , tho’ he feem’d to be but a young man. We obferv’d before a hearfe in the ftreets, a company of men that went two and two, with lighted torches in their hands, and dilguiled in fackcloth which covered their faces, only leaving two holes for their eyes. We were told, that there is a fociety of ordinary citizens who pay a piece of eight every year, and w'hen any dies, he is buried at the charge of the company. An antiquary fhewed us a fmall brafs medal of Otho , which feem’d to be no counterfeit ; a brafs Britannicus , and a brafs Gordianus , which had thefe words, IMP. CAES. M. ANT. GORDIANVS AFR. avg. on one fide ; and victoria avg. sc. on the reverie. This antiquary foolifhly overvalued them at ioo piltoles apiece. ■EngUJh- Mr. ‘fho. Kirk (my merchant) Mr. men. Ellham , Mr. Cock , Mr. Langborn , Mr. Sbugsberry , Mr. IVelJlj and Mr. Legat , EngliJJj merchants at this time in Genoa. The Engl if j fetch from Genoa filks and oranges, which grow there very plenti- The Ban- fully. Letters are going about 21 days cho. into England. The Bancbo is a large open hall where merchants meet. When any velfel comes in, a flag on the lant- horn gives notice to the city, and the fhip mull fhew a bill of health before it can have pratique, or leave to trade. On yf °f March 1664, being holy thurfday, there was great lolemnity, and ATrocif- about noon a proceflion began, which fan. lafted till tw'O hours in the night. Firft, there came a little girl finely dreft up, having a lap full of flowers, then follow¬ ed fix or feven girls in black and white veils, who fang fometimes after them came men dilguis’d in grey fackcloth, fome barefooted, and with great torches in their hands lighted ; between every two was carried by boys fome reprefen- tation of our Saviour’s paffion. Many difguis’d with black fackcloth, having a crols in the middle- Six dilcalceate Francifcans finging. Six penitents clad in fackcloth, having their backs bare, which they fcourg’d as they walk’d, with Vol. VI. cord whips, that had little fteel rowels Skippon. (five or fix in a whip) which fetched blood every ftroke. Some of thefe whip- pers were hooded, fo that their faces could not be feenj and fome went bare¬ foot. Many of the whippers that went in this proceflion feem’d to make but a fport of it. And we were inform’d that they are porters, and mean perfons hired by the rich to undergo this penance en¬ join’d by the priefts. A crucifix and feve- ral difguis’d in black. Six more dilcalceate Francifcans , and fix whippers. The San¬ ta Citta , a pageant carried by men. Black difguis’d perfons, and eight or ten whip¬ pers. After thefe followed the five quarters of the city ; in each quarter were four companies, and about 200 perfons in each company. In the firft quarter came the company of, 1. S. Gia¬ como della Marina , which confifted of two in white difguifes, four pages before a little boy on horfeback, many in white habits, with fome reprefentation of our Saviour’s ftory carried between every two by boys. A crofs. Black habits with grey tippets over their fhoulders. A crofs. More in difguifes. Another crofs, and two more in black. Six difcalceate Francifcans. More in black. A pageant of S- Giacomo di Gallicia , reprefenting S. 'James beheading. Many lighted tapers placed round him, and two whippers fol¬ lowed him. After this manner went the companies of, 2. S. Antonio. 3. S. Croce j and, 4. S. Maria in the firft quarter. As alfo thefecond quarter confiding of thefe companies, viz. 1. S- Maria Angelorum. 2. S. Maria della Pieta. 3. S. Giacomo delle Fofine. 4 . S. I’omafo. In the third quarter, (1. S. S. Giacomo e Leonardo. ) 2. S. Brigida. ) 3. S. Confolata. ( 4 . S. Giovanni. In the fourth quarter, 1. S. Steffano. 2. S. Gia. Battifta. 3 . S. Andrea. 4 . S. Bartolomeo. J In the fifth quarter, 1. S. Francifco. 2. S. S. Pietro e Paolo. 3 . 1 S. Ambrofio. 4 . S. Antonino. Every company before they went home, vifited the cathedral church cal- 7 L led 590 Skippon. l e( j S. Lorenzo. The archbifhop’s name i s Lfurazzi , a cardinal. All this day there were feveral com¬ panies or guards of foldiers in many pla¬ ces of the city ; and many Sbirri went up and down. We faw many Corfican foldiers/ that march’d before the fer- jeant-major who walked on foot, atten¬ ded by many Genoefe gentlemen richly habited, and with fair plumes in their hats. slaves. In Genoa we firft had the opportunity to fee galley-llaves, who are mod iTurks and Moors ; they are generally habited in coarfe hair habits, with a Cucullus to put over their heads ; fome go bare- legg’d, and all have an iron lock fadned to their left foot; they have a mainte¬ nance from the hate, and are employed to make cables, £jV. Many of the flaves have liberty to go up and down the city in the day time, and fell (lockings, her¬ rings, &c. but at night they mud return to the galleys and lodgings within the arfenal. The Genoefe have two large (hips of war, and fome galleys, befides brigan- dines. Genoa is built round the haven in form of a bow, and the flrects are on the ri- fing of the mountains which hath the new done wall on the top, that encom- paffes feven or eight miles, a great deal of wafle ground, and large fuburbs. Within this is a flrong inner wall. The new mole or pier with a tall pha¬ ros or lanthorn, is curioufly built of done, which they fay cod as much as the new wall. The old mole or pier is on the other (fouth) fide of the haven, which is now very fecure. Within the haven are feve¬ ral landing places they call Ponti , as Ponte di Mercanti , Ponte Reale , &c. In the middle of the lad is a flair fountain, and here is a fair and drong gate built \_ by the Protefiori di S. Georgio. The Genoefe are very fufpicious of drangers, as Dr. Tardly of itrinity col¬ lege in Cambridge lately experienc’d, who was apprehended and fearch’d, for drawing with a pencil the remarkable buildings. They at prefent have war with no prince or date, only there is fome quar¬ rel between them and the Maltefe. The inhabitants do generally follow the Spa- nijh faffcions, the men being in dreight breech, and the women in farthingales. They feem’d to be of a furly ill-con¬ dition’d nature. An aquaeducl conveys plenty of water from the mountains to all parts of the [Italy. city, and drives many mills. On the north of Genoa is the river Porcifera y and on the fouth the river Bifagno. A Palma is equal to io inches. The Canna to nine Palmas. The Pound to 11 unc. Pajla di Genoa are round pellets of dried pade they boil in pottage. We ate young artichoaks raw and with pepper. Every one that goes by fea from hence to Ligorn , takes a certificate or bolletin of health at an office, where in the walls are places like the Denoncie at Ve¬ nice. , and there is written, Avifi alC officio di fanita. April i. We hired a felucca (which is a fmall boat with a deerfman and fix oars, that are ufed by watermen danding and rowing, with their faces the fame way the boat moves) for four pidoles, to carry us to Ligorn. This day in the after¬ noon, we row’d nigh the fnore or Riviera di Genoa , which is hilly, and full of plea- fant houfes to Porto Pino. As foon as we were come out of the haven, the watermen mutter’d over fome prayers to our lady, who is much reputed for her miracles in a church nigh Genoa. We came to Porto Pino , and then refolv’d to go by fea all night, that we might reach Ligorn the next day. In the evening the boatmen faid their prayers again, and we compos’d ourfelves for fleep. Sometimes the fail was fet up, but for the mod part they row’d. Towards the morning we had a did' wind that blew our felucca (before the fail could be loofen’d) dole to the rocks, and broke one or two of our oars. Weobfcrv’d a fhining light in the bubble of fea-water that the motion of the oars made- April 2. We went into Porto Venere , a little wall’d town with a cadle, having two idands before it, which make a fe¬ cure haven ; after the watermen refrefh’d themfelves with a breakfad, we were much troubled to perfwade them further, but at lad they went off, and fail’d crofs a fair bay, call’d Golfo Spezzia , paffing by on our right hand, a pentagonal tower built on a rock in the fea, and on our left hand faw another fort. Five miles from Porto Venere we reach’d Lerici 7 a little place belonging to the Genoefe , whence we could not force the boatmen further, and fo paid them three pidoles, and gave the podmader feven tedons a man for riding pod to Luca. The fird dage was to Sarzana 7 a drong town of the Genoefe , and we rode on mules thefe four miles over olive hills, having on our left hand feveral towns built on the fides of the hills. At Sarzana we took horfes, and A Journey thro 1 Part of the Italy.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. 59 * and 10 miles thence arriv’d at Mafia , where we lay this night. Maffia is a finall city on the fide of the hills, belonging to a prince whole name is Cybo. On the town gate is infcrib’d. Albericus Cybo Malafpina facr't Romani tin* perii ci'vitatifq-, Maffix, &c. princeps. He coins money, and hath much re¬ venue out of the marble quarries at Car- rara , &c. He is titled alfo duke D'Ayrello in the kingdom of Naples. April 3. We took new poft-horfes, and rode at the foot of the hills, having on our right hand a fenny level, and pafs’d thro’ olive woods, obferving the country to be very thin of houfes and inhabitants. About three miles from Maffia , we went thro’ a pals guarded by a new tower or fort of the duke of Florence. About three miles further, we came thro’ Pietra Santa , a ftreight ftrcet walled, belonging to the fame duke. Five miles before we reach’d Luca, we travell’d over a craggy hill, and then defcended into a well cul¬ tivated, tho’ narrow plain, and after a mile’s winding road, we had four miles of ftreight road, and then we enter’d LUCA. Luca at Porta S. Pietro , where all ftrangers muft enter, and at no other gate. We gave our names here, and receiv’d a bol- letin for to lodge in the city. But three gates at this place. None of the citizens are permitted to walk in this town with fwords, or other arms, nor any ftrangers, without leave firft from the magiftrates. Some Frenchmen that travelled with us from Lena , prefum’d to walk with their fwords, but prefently a dozen Sbirri went after them with their muskets, and perceiving them to be ftrangers, com¬ manded them to their inn. One Signior Giofeppc Baroncini fhew’d us many remarkables of this place. Cathedral. The cathedral is a neat building ; in the north ille is a pretty round chapel, where is kept the Santtus Vultus , a figure in wood reprefenting our Saviour on the crofs; this they fay was made by S. Ntco¬ de mils ^ and they ftamp the figure of it on their money. Thefe eafter holidays it was expos’d to view, the people kneel¬ ing before it, and a prieft rubb’d their beads on the legs of this image. Nigh it is written on a pillar, A Legend. Sempitcmiim adorare prodigium , A. D mcccxxxiv. kitjus Six. crucis au- xilio 'Joannis Laurentii Atrebatenfis precibus implorato , fecuris in fui 1 te- can ere II a Nit am fervat , innocent iam patefecit , falfo enim homicidii inftmu- latus cervican tmpigre fupponit ferro , ferrum term itfu innocentis mollefcit Skippon. ad yitam, abi & difce nullas effie ad ip fa impetranda prodigia preces inno - centia efficaciores. The body of S. Regains , a martyr, is cnfhrined at one altar. A fair marble monument is eredted to three Giudiccioni that w r ere cardinals. A little chapel, made exadfly after the form of la Santa Cafa at Loreto 3 on theoutfide is written. Forma domus in qua Verbum caro faltum eft, xdificatx anno falutis per Virginis partum reparatx mdclxii. Over the altar is, Lucenfem populutn tu pi a virgo fove. On an altar in.is infcrib’d, I lie jacet corpus Sti. Riccardi regis Ang - Hx, and Carmina inhonorem S. Riccardi. Kic Rex Riceardus requiefeit feebtrifer ahnus. Rex fait Anglorum , regnunn tenet ifte Polar urn Regifum dirr.iftt , pro Cbnfto cun Ha reliquit. Ergo Riccardtm nobis dedit Anglia fanclum Hie genii or fandle Valborgce virginis almas Eft V'lllebaldi fautii ftmul etVenebaldi Su fragium quorum nobis det regna Polarumi The ffiheatins is a pretty church. The Auguftins church hath on the Auguflines fouth fide a chapel, which is pi&ur’d with chlirch - the ftory of a gamefter that loft all, and a Legend. fpoke againft Chrift and the virgin Mary , &c. The fellow w ; as immediately fwallow’d up into the ground where this chapel ftands ■ the hole he funk into is covered with a ftone thus infcrib’d, Ne maledillum manor ejus et dedecus ejus non delebitur, Ecclefiaf cap. xxiii. Under the pidture is written, Froluat ut culpam dat virgo fanguinis undam At cadit ignorans impius effie piam. In a printed paper hung the ftory at large, the beginning w-hcreof is thus, Lucenfium pietati pro Deiparx, fftc. Solati¬ um. Affix a fupponit ur hxc inferiptio Lucx facello B. Virginis d faxo ditlxubi profundiffiimus adhuc ext at hiatus defeen- furo <>»■ crofs in it ; then 10 flaves founding of trumpets ; next a crucifix, carry’d by a young woman, and on her left hand ano¬ ther finely drefs’d : after them follow’d many girls and young women, two by two, and behind them came nuns : in the middle of the moledood two rows of chridian flaves, with beads and candles (which are malefactors condemn’d to the gallies) ty’d fix together with chains; and a company of prieds and finging-boys about a pageant of the virgin Mary. The flaves founded their trumpets; and fling¬ ing boys fung towards the galleys, which anfwer’d with a volley offhot and noife of trumpets: 6 oo A Journey thro Tart of the f Italy. Skipi'on. trumpets: little guns on the ground were fired at the entring into a church, where none but the Haves were permitted to go in to hear mafs. Thefe flaves were then confefs’d before their going to lea. We obferv’d, one day, a Venetian nftrologer (as he call’d himielf) or moun¬ tebank, who fat on his horfe, and dil- cours’d to the people of the ftars, 13 c. and he fpoke to a fellow in the crowd through a long whifpering-pipe of tin, and then gave him one of his medicines. June 13. After we return’d from Sicily, The g r »- we faw the granary belonging to the city »*')■ of Naples , which is under-ground, con¬ fiding of 30 fojje or grotte , fupported by pillars: they lay here is always llore enough to provide the city feven years: I believe there might be enough to fup- ply for two or three years. The corn is kept here cool in the lummer, and warm in the winter ; it is turn’d over very often, fome laid every two days. The Neapolitan bakers are oblig’d to buy here 25,000 tumuli every month ; and if they have occafion for more, may buy it where they pleafie. Five confervatori delle fojje ; four chofen by the nobility, and one by the commonalty, overfee this granary. Car- June 14. We walk’d up to the Car- thuiians. t } lu f ians cloifter, (which is under caftle S. Elmo') where we faw their fmall church, more polite than the Annunciata at Genoa , dedicated to S. Martin , curioufly adorn’d, all the pillars and walls being crufted over with fine inlay’d work of marble, brought from Carrara ; very excellent pictures over the altars, and two in the choir, made by a Flemmings who was rewarded with 2500 ducats. Here is one large cloifter, being the moft curious and neat place of this nature that ever we yet faw • all the pillars and pavement of the belt marble, and at each corner, over doors, the figures of the virgin Mary, &c. were rarely carved : from a balcony, on one fide, we had a delightful profpecft of the city, country and mountains; and from another part of the cloifter, looked over their large and pleafant gardens on the fide of the hill; and the lea, with that part of the city near Caftclle Ovo, came in¬ to view. We faw here a huge ciftern to receive rain-water in. This day being Midfumner-day, N. S. the fathers (being 85 belonging to the convent) walk’d up and down, and converfed freely with one another ; which liberty is deny’d them at other times. As we returned from the Carthufians, we came in a way cut very deep in the rock, and faw large quarries. We pais’d by a nunnery, call’d, LaTiinra. c Trmita , where are none but noble¬ women. Le Penitents, are nuns, which they Le Fspi* fay are women who have been ill treated tc:irc - by their husbands. Le Convert it i , entertain fuch as have Le Con- been whores. vc,tuK Santto Spirito , is a place for young baftard wenches. June 15. We vifited the Auguftins cloifter, who have a church, call’d, S.Jo. d Carbonaria ; where, behind the altar, is a ftately maufoleum of marble ; on the top is the figure of a man on horle- back; and underneath is written, in old characters, Divus LadiJlaus ; in the middle lies the image of a biftiop, who erected this monument to this king of Hungary , when the excommunication was taken off for his fighting againft the church : un¬ derneath is the king’s effigies, in a fitting pofture, with his wife Johanna by him. In a large, round chapel, fome of the monuments of the Caraccioli are worth noting ; and behind the aforefiid maufb- leum is a fair tomb of one of them ; and on the wall, his face and upper part of his body naked is painted. Santla Catharina a formello, belongs to a Dominican convent, where we law a fair [piceria , or an apothecary’s Ihop, con¬ fiding of three or four rooms: in one, are allchymical preparations; in another, we were fhewn leveral rarities; viz. a child with two heads; another with four legs ; a rat with the head like a lion’s; which all feem’d to be artificial : Minera Diaman - tis, Scapula Gryphouis ; the feven peniten¬ tial plalms, and the OJfuium per mortals, written in fmall. The Ammiralgio is a large prifon. The Domo is a fur great church, where, Domo. on the louth fide is a curious chapel, with a high pair of brafs gates. The ftatue of S. Januarius is ereefted on a fair column before the louth door. S. Cajetan is a curious church belong- S. Cajetan. ing to the Tbeatins ; all the pillars and walls are hung round with pictures of miracles $ and about one chapel are none but pictures in filver plate. Cajetan s ftatue Hands before this church, juft be¬ fore the front, whereof are eight old Corinthian pillars, liipporting fome de¬ fac’d figures j underneath is this inferib’d : T1BERIOS IOTAIG2 TAP202 AlOEKOTPOIS KAI TH FIOAEI TOY NAOV XAI TA ENTS NAS... . flEAAf SN 2EBA2TOT A riEAET©EPOS KAI EniTPOHOS STNTEAESAS EK TSN IAISN KA0IEPSETEN. This Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 6a i This was the portico to the temple of Cafior and Pollux. We obferv’d here a great quantity of womens hair hanging up, offer’d after the death of their huf- bands, fignifying their future chaftity. June 16. We walk’d early in the morning, about three miles, to the top of a hill, palling through pleafant woody The Ca- places, where the Camaidoli dwell, a fort maidoli. 0 p £ rem jf es ^ habited in white, who have every one a little houfe and fmall garden : there are 13 houfcs in three ranks on one fide of a pretty church, (where are 100 con felling-feats) ■ and on the other fide, fix houfes in two ranks: they have a prior, and are efteem’d wealthy. From this hill we had a fine profpecft of Naples , the ad¬ jacent country, hills, fea, M. Paufilippus , Lac us Agnanus , Pozzuolt , Baix. We had here a ftrong fmell of brimftone from mount Solfaterra two miles diftant. June 18. We went through Portadi Chaii , where are fet up, in two iron grates, two heads of rebels in the tumults 1648. A row of houfes here ruin’d by the command of the vice-roy, who com¬ manded then; the moft confiderable con- fpirators living here. Beyond Cafiello Ovo we walk’d along the marina (or fhore) before a long front of houfes, and came to mount Paufilippus , a promon¬ tory ; about which, in the fummer even¬ ings, the nobility, &c. take th efrefco or air Mount in their felucca’s. Ithathapaffagecutthro 5 pus 'ly broad enough for two carts; the length land. ' is about half a mile, and is level with the roads without: towards Naples the paf- fage is higheft, and in the middle it is loweft : light comes Hoping in from the top ; and about half way on the fide to¬ wards the fea, is a fmall chapel within the rock, where a monk fays mafs every day : at the entrance of either edge the light may be feen quite thro 5 . It is all the way pav’d. When it is obfcure, paf- lengers coming from Naples , call out to thole they meet, Alla Marina , keeping themfclves on the right hand, or towards the mountain ; and thofe that come from the other end, cry, Alla Montagna , keep¬ ing themfelves on the left hand, or to¬ wards the fea. Juft before we went into this paffage, towards the top, on the right hand, is a monument within the rock, which is be¬ liev’d to be Virgil’s tomb. Virgil. Georg. 1 . 4. fpeaks of his ftudying here. Illo Vtrgilium me tempore dulcis alebat Partbenope , fiudiis fiorentem - Two miles from Paufilippo we arriv’d Grotto del at Grotto del Cane , a fhort and low cave in the fide of a fhady hill, that furrounds Vol. VI. Lacus Agnanus , (a little lake, about £ Skippon. mile in compafs): the cave is broad enough for a man to turn about in.~ f went in, and ftay’d a confiderable while, perceiving no inconvenience by ftanding upright in it; but putting my head down within a fpan of the bottom, a fudden fmell of an arfenic vapour ftifled my breath, and oblig’d me to withdraw my head prelently upwards; for it is a mortal fume that arifes, which we experimented in thefe creatures. 1. A large grafs-hopper was kill’d in about a minute’s time, 2. A beetle, in a quarter of an hour. 3. A chicken in a minute. 4. Two frogs in three or four minutes. 5. A little dog in lefs than a quarter of an hour : the dog, chicken and frogs had fome life left when we took them out, but we could not recover any of them prelently into the lake. 6. A large fnake was quite dead in the fpace of half an hour. We were told, that about 22 years fince, a nobleman of Naples, the duke di Mat alone , ftifled one of his flaves here ; whom he vainly endeavour’d to recover by throwing him into the lake. The fides of the cave are tin&ur’d green, as high as the vapour rifes, and are hot ; but above that height the fides are rocky and white, crufted over in moft places with a thin fragile fubftance. The water of the lake is frefh, and affords fifh ; it is about 15 paces diftant from this grotto. Lacus Avernus , Grotto di Sybilla and the Stnfa of Januanus are not far from hence. June 20. And all the reft of our time in Naples we obferv’d thefe particulars following : In the bookfellers ftreet (call’d Furcello ) is a fair palace belonging to the family of the Rota , where, in the entry, we law old ftatues. Not far from hence is the prince of Saianos palace, where are prelerv’d curious antiquities ; amongft which this infeription : IMP. CAESAR. DIVl VESPASIAN. DOMITIANO AV. GERM. PONT. MA. TRIB. POTEST, xfii: IMP. xxii. COS. xvi. CENSORI PERPET. P. REG. VICT. VESTORIANI ET CALPVRNIANI. On a handfome old fquare tower, I tranferib’d fome of the verles on it, viz- Rex & Regina fiant hie multis fociati Unganx Reges , Generofa fiirpe Creatus , Confpicis , Andreas Calabrum DuxVeneratus 7 O Dux 6o2 A Journey thro 9 Part of the {Italy . Skippon. dux pia, Dux tnagna Confors hujufqj Johanna Neptis Regalis fociat for or ipfa Maria Jlluftris princeps Robert us & ipfe Parenti Jpfeq, Pbilippus Frater Vultu reventi Hie Dux Duraci Carolus fpeftat reverendus Suntqduofratres Ludovicus & ip fe Rober- tUSy &C. At the Dominicans, call’d S. I’bo. Aquinas, we went into a narrow fchool- room, where the ftudents wrote after a civilian that read, who was often inter¬ rupted by the fcholars ; and he familiarly discours’d with them in the midft of his ledlure. In another fchool, a friar was reading divinity. On June 22, the weather was very cool, by reafon of the rain and thunder we had. uin execu- One evening (the ufual time for execu- tlon ' tions here) we faw a fellow hang’d that kill’d his wife : the gallows was eredted before her father’s houfe : one riding on an als came before him, with a large ban¬ ner folded up; which in time of joy is open’d ; then follow’d a crucifix, and fome in white difguifes : after the male- fadtor had done his devotion, he afeended the ladder, killing every ftep he went up, and ftanding there about a quarter of an hour, one of the difguis’d gave him an exhortation; and at fome fign or word, the hangman turn’d him off, and to flrangle him the fooner, leap’d upon his fhoulders. Before and after the execu¬ tion a trumpet founded. He hung all night, and then was cut down. s. Domi- S. Dominico Maggiore, is a Dominican nico Mag- cloifler, where they fhew’d us the cell giorc. c f g gr ho. Aquinas^ where an altar is eredted to him. In this convent, Dr. Cor¬ nelius (who wrote the progymnafmata) reads mathematicks. In a handfome fmall fchool, where Thomas Aquinas us’d to read, over the chair the wall is well painted. On one fide of the entrance is this infGription: Viator hue ingrediens Sijie gradum atque venerare banc Imaginetn et Catbedram banc in qua Sedens magnus ille magijler Divus Thomas de Aquino Neapolitanus cum frequente ut par erat Auditor, con¬ curfu et . felicitate exteros quam- plurimos admirabili dodlrina Fheologiam docebat, accerfitus jam a Rege Carolo primo confiituta illi mercede unius uncix annum per fingulos menfes. F. V. C. in anno mcclxxii. D. S.S. F.F. The crucifix that {poke to Thomas Aquinas, is kept in a chapel over an altar. Donna Regina is a Francifcan nunnery Donna Re- where women of quality are cloifler’d, and glna ' have more freedom than others: their chapel will be very rich, when finifh’d. 5 ” Apofioli is a pretty church of San£tt the Theatins, where, on the left fide 0 f ApoI1:oi1, the altar, is a {lately monument of the prefent archbilhop of Naples , built of white marble ; an altar-table is fupported by two marble lions; over rhat a flone, curioufly carved with the figure of little boys, which is efleem’d highly : the arch- bifhop procur’d it of one Fra. Flamingo at Rome : above this is a pidlure repre- fenting, in mofaick work of little Hones, the annunciation ; over it is written, Annunciatx Virgini Dei matri, Afcanius Cardtnalis Philamarinus Arcbieps.Neap. 1642. The pidtures of faith, hope, charity, and humility {land on each fide of the fame work ; and lower down, at each corner, is a pidlure, one of himfelf, the other of his brother (lately dead) made with in¬ laid work. Under his own pidlure is inferib’d, Pervetuftum Philamarinx gentis Monumentum e Sandii Georgii majoris anno mcciic. tranflatum in Pontif calls templi xdiculam fub S n Nicolai d Johanne Philamarino dicat am et pofi cccx. annum facrarum reliquiarum Sandii Januarii aliorum Saudi or um tutelarium pro urbis dignitate reficiendo piiffime Conceffam Afcanius Philamarinus S R E Cardinalis Arcbieps. Neapolitanus pro fe fuifq-y hie injlaurandum curavit. Under his brother’s; Ut vero Philamarinx familix Nomen una cum immortalitx perennet in hoc S S Apojlol. xdis parte Columnis figillis pidlurifq, mujjivis a fe Exornatum ubi conditorium Afcanius idem Philamarinus S RE Cardinalis Arcbiepifcopus Neapolitanus tralatis e Pontificali Bafilica majorum fuorum offibus confiruxit. Sibi et Scipioni Philamarino Fratri in regno Generali militix Vicario pojierifq-, ejus mortis memor vivens Sepulcbrum pofuit Anno mdcxxxxii. One Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 605 One Giovanni Lanfranco of Parma painted the roof of the church, and had 3000 ducats for his pains. The taber¬ nacle on the high altar is very curious and rich, being made of precious (tones, viz. oriental jafper, topaz, &c. and is adorn’d with filver figures gilt. Before the altar are two (lately brafs candle- dicks on bads of the fame metal, cad into the figure of the four evangelids, as they are reprefented by the ox, lion, &c. The altar is of inlaid marble, which they (ay cod 70,000 ducats. A young father was very civil, and willing to (hew us their riches in the Sacrijlia , which was kept very neat; it being a proverb. As neat as a Sacridia, or vedry. In feveral preffes were lock’d up didindtly the fur¬ nitures of feveral altars, and prieds, and hangings for the two doors that bring into the choir. We (aw richly wrought copes, &c. (ome are u(ed in the winter, and fome in the fummer ; fome were thick embroider’d with gold and pearl, &c. one finely wrought with flowers : four candledicks of brafs, fet thick with fmall pieces of coral; given by the duke of ‘ferra Nuova, whofe brother is one of the convent: great quantity of plate ; a chalice, that was of one piece of crydal; chalices adorn’d with rubies, &c. Here is a fair and large chapel on the fouth fide, with a pair of brafs gates wrought,which, they fay, cod aboutzjooo ducats : This chapel is call’d, II I’heforo± and has a revenue diflin6t from the Vef- covado ; it is fervcd by different prieds. At the high altar is a brals figure of S. Januarius and four faints more, that are the prote&ors of Naples. The cupola is well painted by Lanfranco. An altar- pidture, made by Cavaliero Maximus other altar-pidtures (on brafs or copper plates) drawn by Dorninico S. Pierre j who had for drawing every whole figure 100 ducats, and for every half figure 50 ducats. In the church lies a huge old pillar of marble that was found under¬ ground. We were told, thefe fathers are obliged to have no revenue, nor are they permitted to beg ; but yet what is given them maintains ’em very well. The Oratoriuni is a church very richly gilt on the roof, fupported by 12 ihafts of old pillars. A picture here made by the famous Pietro d’Acortoue. Here is a pretty fmall chapel dedicated to Phil. Nerius. In one dreet, on a wall, is this Roman infeription, C. SEFTIMIVS. C. F. LIBO. AE. D. SCR. AED. CVR. sibI ET LABERIAE TVSCAE VX. sepTimae amaranTi V. There are in Naples five Seggio or Skippon.^ courts. 1. Seggio di Nido , corruptly fo called from the old figure of Nilus that lies in that dreet. 2. Seggio di Capua. 3. Seggio di Montagna. 4. Seggio di Porto. 5. Seggio di Porto Nuovo. The nobility is divided into thefe five parts,and when any difference or quarrel happens, it is brought before the Seggio they belong to. That of Nido is painted with the dory of Charles V. his being prefented with their privilege, whereby he was admitted as one of that Seggio. The family of Carafa, we were told, re¬ ceived its name and coat of arms at the fame time, upon this occafion. A king of Arragon fainting with his wounds in a battle, a foldier of his holds him up, and chances to put three of his fingers near the wound, and drawing three drokes of blood, gave original to the three bends in his coat, and the king at that indant expreflfed great kindnef’s to him, calling him Caro a ft, whence they (ay, the name Carafa is deriv’d. An arch built at Porto di Chiai , which leads to Pitro Falcone , a promontory in¬ to the fea, which the people took pof- feflion of in 1648, and thence annoy¬ ed Caftello del Ovo ; but fince the Spa¬ niards have kept a guard there, and made a draw-bridge in the middle of the arch. Near the fea-fide the pope’s nuncio hath his fummer palace. Under Paufihppus is a fuburb or bor- go called Mergellina , where we (aw a pretty grotto (called Grotto di Virgilio') having a fpring of water in it j over the gate of it is written, D. O. M. Inter * Sinceri Cnieres magniq- } Maronis * Sanai- Sfua Mergellina ac tollit fe Candida in zai ' 0, undis Condidit has genio et Mufas Garophylus cedes. MDLXX. Hereabouts is the Servites cloifler built vhe sir- by Sanazzaro a famous poet, behind VIU - the high altar is a curious monument of white marble, rarely carv’d, and on the top is his effigies, and under it is written, Aclius Sincerius D. O. M. Under that a poetical fancy in marble fculpture, reprefenting the gods Pan , Neptune , Ve- uus , playing on inftruments; on one fide is the (latue of Orpheus , on the other Pallas , whofe (hield is excellently wrought with gorgons head- But becau(e this tomb is in a facred place, under Or¬ pheus they have written David , and under the other Judith. This A journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy. Skifton. This diftich underneath : Da facro Ciner't flores, hie ille Maroni Sincerus Mu fa proximus ut tumulo mix. A. lxxii. ohiit mdxxx. The workman’s name, Fio.Ang.Flo.Or.S.F. A graveflone in this church, with the effigies of a bifhop, holding a book, whereon is written, Epifcopi Arriaiu , and under his feet is this diftich. Carafe hie alibiq ; jacet Diomedis imago Mortua ttbiq-, jacet, Fivaq ; ubiqi manet. M.DXXXXX. An altar picture, juft by, wherein is deferibed an angel treading on the devil, with the face of a woman, which was like a whore that fell in love with this bifhop, who refitted her temptations, and lent her this picture for a prefent. In this part of the city, nigh the fhore, we law a handfome Roman altar ftone, thus inlcrib’d. ' Avgvsto SACRVM RESTITVERVNT LAVRINENSES PECVNIA SVA CVLTORES D. D. On one fide of the altar, a fellow with an ox for the lacrifice. On another fide, a guttus patinus 3 flagellum. Upon a gallows we faw the nole and ears of a foldier nailed, who ran away from his colours, and received this pu- nifhmc-nt, with a kick on the breech, when he was turned out of the fervice. We faw a Spanijh comedy at Naples , where nothing was remarkable. The vice- The vice-roy’s palace hath a very fair rofs pa- front, with a double portico, one above lace. another. A broad and (lately afeent to it. The palace is much negledted, and not kept clean. The chapel is very much gilt, and pictured on the roof. A ^. grtr _ The Dominicans have a rofary procef. foJ. fion, every firft funday of the month ; one we oblerved ; viz. firft went two trum¬ peters, then, in order, followed a flag, carried by a lay-man, boys with lighted tapers, fome men, a monk with a ban¬ ner, and a boy on each fide of him, crowned with flowers; feveral Domini¬ cans in their white habits; vocal and in- (Irumental muflek before the image of the Madonna , or V. M. a crowd of wo¬ men. The Canonici Regulari Lateranenfi have Canonid a convent, which is counted the greateft Re S ulari * alylum, or place of refuge, in this city ; on the roof of the porch is written, Firmo che firmo. We were admitted into the Cafiello del Caft.del Ovo. The outward ditch is converted < - JV0, into gardens, which bring the governor in a good profit. The callle, within the walls, has (Irong towers. The front of the gate of this callle, is of rare carved marble work ; king Alfonfus being drawn in a triumphant chariot, with men, ar¬ mour, 3 c. This inlcribed. Alfonfus Re¬ gum Pnnceps hanc condidit Arcem. Be¬ low that, Alfonfus Res Htfpanus , Siculus , It aliens, Clemens , Pius , Invillus. In this callle, prifoners are kept, and at this time a captain of banditi was a priloner, who got a great ellate, and was made a mar- quils, who in 1648, did the king of Spain good fervice ; but afterwards falling into fufpicion, he was clapt up, and has been a priloner feven or eight years, and like to continue fo the reft of his days, be¬ ing an old man. Before this callle, in the piazza, are fix fountains; one of them very hand¬ fome, having a Neptune and other figures. June 26. In the evening we oblerved five galleys hung round with lights, in lanthorns, this being a holy-day. At S. Dominico Majore , in the facriflia , s. Domi- are many trunks covered over with vel- nico ma * vet, where the bodies of feveral kings, J0re- 3 c. are kept. In a table hang up thefe feveral epitaphs upon them, full of bald rhimes and falle quantities. Carmina quae in Return Neap. Aragon, horuraq-, Procerum fepulchris legebantur. 1. Ad Alfonfum Regem. Inclytus Alfonfus qui Regibus ortus Iberis Aufinite regnum primus adeptus adefi. 2. Ad Antonium Arag. M. A. D. Dormis an Vigilas Antoniu Sell or utrumq ; Offa quidern prirnum fed virtus fama fe- cundum. Sanguineprocretus Genitorq ; quidni moraris? Stirpis Aragonite Fernandas indicis bo- ram. 3. Ad Ferdinandum Arag. D. Neap. Cernis Joamtem magna de ftirpe Nepotem Suftulit hunc pv.erum quae rapit ilia fenes. 4. Ad Mariam Lazerdam. M. A. D. £fuce fitter ant Mari ceLazerdae maxima viva. Et genus et oilmen omnia mors rapuit. 5. Ad Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. 5. Ad Petr ion Arag. Pr Imogen. D. Cernis Aragonei Pet rum hand ignobile fe¬ me n Antoni illuftris [anguine ftemmatibus. Prima rotate fuit perdignus fede pater na, lime rapuit terns fed Libitina fiiis. 6 . Ad Anton. Arag. M. A. Ducem. Sarcophago claiifus Dux eft a [anguine Re¬ gion L Non obi it cujus nomen honofq; manet. Spiritus aftra colit vivit fua gloria terris In [edes rediit corpus inane fuas. 7. Ad Ferdinandum Ur [mum G. D. Gravinx Dominion demon ft rat candide left or [erica turnba tibi hxc Urfina a gente nitente Inclytus in bellis tenuit quod nobile nomen Sed turn hunc poftuit Lachefis metuenda [e- pulchro. In parte dextera chori. 8- Ad 'Joannem Andegaven. Ducem Dyr- rhaebii Regjs Carch II. [ilium. Dux Duracenfis regali ftirpe Joannes Atq ; Comes dignus Graving rnente benignus Ac Albanorum Dominus correptorct bonon Angeli Montis [anHi Dominator honoris Pnnceps diferetus mira pietate replctus Franciacuipatrem confert Ungaria matrem San ft a de gente generatus utroq ; parente Hie jacet illuftris vitx claufis ftbi luftris Anno Milleno.quo Cbriftus corde fereno Et trecenteno perfulfit per quoq- 3 deno Quinto migravit Cceleftia quod properatur ftertia prxftabat indiftio quae numerabat Rogamus Chrifte Cceli Dux inclytus ifte Vivat in xternum Patrem [peculando fu- pernum. 9. Ad Ferdinandum I. Ferrandus fenior qui condidit aurea feela Mortuus Aufonix femper in ore manet. 10. Ad Ferdinand. II. Ferrandton mors feria diu fugis arrnage- rentem Mox pofitus ilium impia [alee necat. 11. Adjoannam F. P. F. Sufcipe Reginampurabofpes mente Joannam Et cole qua meruit poft [ua[ata coli. 12. Ad Francifeum Ferdin. Avalum' de Aquino Marchionem Pifcarix Generalem Vicarium Cxfarcx Majeftatis in Italia et in Regno Sicilix Proregem. <£>uis jacet aurato hoc loculo fub ? maxi mu s ille Pifcator, belli gloria, pads bonos. Nunquid et pi fees ccpit ? non ergo quid Urbes Magnanonos Reges,Oppidct , Regna,Duces Die quibus hxc cepit pifcator retibus f alto Confilio, intrepido corde alacriq ; manu fftni tantum rapuere Ducem ? duo numina Mars , Mors At nocuere nihil, nam vivit fama fuper- ftes Martem et Mortem name it et invidiam. Lud. Arioft. idem Hiftp. idiomats. Carmina qux leguntur in gladio d Chnftia - nifjimo Francorum R. Francifco ftbi do - nato et hoc in eodem tumulo fervato. Pifcario Martis debetur Martins enfis Barbara a deft, tutus medios potes ire per hoftes. 13. Ejfluat ex animo nunquam meditatio lucis Lege pari quoniam paupere di ves obit. 14. Bernardo de Baucio Montis Cave oft Comiti R. M. Juftitiario Francifeus de Baucio Dux An dr ix Princeps [epulchrum bencmerenti poftuit. 15 Ad Ifabellam Arag. D. Medio!. Hie Ifabella jacet centum fata [anguine Re^ gum ftftua cum Majeftate It ala prifea jacet Sol qui luftrabat radiis fulgentibus orbem Qccidit inque alio nunc agit orbe diem. 16. Ad Mariam Arag. Vafti M. Eheu Vafti Domina excellens virtutibus ortii Orbis qux imperium digna tenere fuit Sarcophago jacet hoc nunc parvus corpora pulvis Spiritus angelicas fed nitet ipfte choris. 17. Ad Filium Ducis Furr is Major is. * 1 < Flos tener hie languet , decidijfct is nift flo~ rens Laudibus eximiis cxnperaffet avos, 18. Ad — — — Carafam. Gent is Car aftx fydus [pes una mar it i Viva fuit, pofthac mortua luftus erii , Nunc ornat cerium radiis fulgent ibus aft rum Et micat ardenti Jurnine prope Jovem. 19. Ad Ferdinandum Franc ifeum Ava.lum de Aquino Marchionem Pifcarix in Reg¬ no Sicilix proregem. , Marc bio clara fui Generis quin Marti a " proles Prxfeftus Sicilians conditur hoc tumulo. 20. Ad Filiam Ducis Bov ini. Delitium fucrat, qux mox jam nata pa¬ rent um Charius hxc vivens nernpe futura fuit. .7 P 21 .Ad 6o6 A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy, 21. Ad Aloyfitim Car afam. P. Sni. Stillani illufiris propria virtute et avorum Princeps hie fa flits cl audit ur umbra cinis. In parte finiftra chori. 22. Ad Philippum Andegaven. Principem Farenti Regis Caroli Filium. Hie pins et fidus , hie Martis in agmine fydus Philippus plenus virtutibus atq- 3 ferenus £hti Caroli natus qui Franca de gente fe* ctnidi Regis facundi regina matre creatus Ungarix five vir natx femme divx Regis Francorum Gather inx perfirenuorum Ffiui Confiantinopolis extitit imperator. Atq 3 Farentini Princeps dominator ac viflor Jure tamen patris firenuus ac iflibus acris Achaiai princeps cui Romania deinceps Fanquam Defpoto titulo fuit addita ncto Inclytus et gratus tumulo jacet hoc tra.beatv.s Ejus qui magno folio migravit in anno Chrifii Milleno Freceno ter quoq ; deno Bino December erat ejufdem fexta I r iceno Falla Dies inerat indiffio quintaq\dena. 1332. Under the trunks is inferibed. Memoriae Regum Neap. Aragonenfium tern-, poris injuria confumptx pietate Cathohei Regis Philippi. Joanne a Stunica Mi¬ randa Comiti et in regno Neap. Prorege Curante. Sepulchra mfiaurata A. D. CIDIDXCIV. Pi&ureS of the kings hang over the trunks. This pedigree is in the middle of the table among the forementioned epitaphs. 1 D - ^Sancha. D. Cafar. D. D.ljab. D* Per din. II. D. Ferd. 1 • Alfon- fus. D. Mediol. Petrus Rex Neap. 1491. D. Calabria. —j Mas. — Mas. — Fcem. — |F cem. 1_ j Joanna. Re- J vma Ne | 1418. Beatrix D. Joannes Car din alis. Aijou/us 11 . Federic. D. Franc. D. Eleanora. Reg. Vannon. — Rex Neap. , 4 f 4 - . R.Neap. 1496. Dux. S. A. I. ~ D. Ferrari a. D. Suejfe. Alphonf. I. Rex Neap. I 434 - Ferdinandus Joannes R. Arag. Rex Arag. 1431. etSicili*. In Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, dM France. A fellow i n 4 nobleman’s palace, I law a fellow ntreniy a w j 1Q was bitten by a tarantula; he dan- 11 nllUa ‘ yer y antickly, with naked (words, to a tune played on an inflrument: They fay, if the lpider be prelently killed, no fuch effects will appear ; but as long as it lives, the perion bitten is lubjedl to thefe paroxyfms, and when it dies he is free. Ulually they are the poorer fort of people that fay they are bitten, and they beg money while they are in thefe dancing fits; which makes fome think, that the many (lories of the bites of the tarantula are not true. Near the Seggio di Nido is an old (lone thus inl'cribed. POSTVMNS LAMPADIVS VC CONS CAMP CVP-AVIT. §. Clara. S. Clara is a large old church, built by queen Joan* ; the Francifcans Minoris ob- ferv. have a eloifter here ; behind the high altar is king Robert's (lately monument. In the fame church is a fair old tomb of an emprefs, with this infcription. the jacet corpus illujlris Dux. Dux. Manx de Francis Impcratricis Conjiantino'poli- tanx Ducijfx Duracii. bxc dbiit anno mccclxvi. die xxix. menfisMaii. ctijus amnia requiefcat in pace. 'Lorre di S. Vincen¬ te. The Arse¬ nal. Academi- tforre di S. Vincinte is near the (hore, and is a place for difobedient children. The arlenal hath 16 long arches fair¬ ly built, for to build and preferve galleys in; five galleys, and one hofpital galley at Naples : every night there is good mufick (bunded by the (laves. We vifited Dr. < Tho. Cornelius of Cofen- za in Calabria, the author of Progymnaf- vfiata ; hfe is profeffor of mathematicks and phyfick, and a great admirer of Car- tefius , and the new philo(bphers. At the marquifs of Arena's palace, 29 ci h’.vcTti- June, we were introduced into the room g :,nas - where the Academia Iilvejligantes meet every IVcdnefday in the afternoon, when we obferved about 60 perfons prelent. They difcourled about feveral things, and brought in the experiment of water afeending in glafs tubuli, or (mall pipes; which they reafoned upon. After that, Leonardns a Capua dilcourfed about heat and cdld ; then Lucas Anion. Fortius feat- ed himlelf in a chair, at the upper end of the room, and read a difeourfe on the lame fubjebl; and when the company was pleafed with any thing, they cried bene. (Note, none but thofe who are Academi¬ cs may read in the chair.) This done, Caramuel , a fryar of the Bened/tlin or- s der, profeffor in Salamanca , and bifhop oi Campania, in elegant Latin, anfwered extempore the. affertions of Francifcus^ ab Andrea, who mofl ingenioufly defended the lord Vcrulam's opinion, that it is poffible for. a man to live ever, if he can keep himfelf in one and the fame condi¬ tion of health. The marquifs of Arena moderated with great ingenuity and un- derltanding ; and he was particularly cL vil to us. There are about 14 Academic ci, viz. 1 . 7 / Marchefe d'Arena. c ibo- mafo Cornelio. 3. Joannes Caramuel. 4. 'Leon, a Capua. 5. D. Mich. Gentitii. 6. Fra. ab Andrea. 7. Januarius ab Andrea. 8. Joan. Bapt. Capuccius „ 9. D. Jofepb Medices Pnnceps Odiavianu 10. Lucas Ant. Portius. 11. Dominions Soutane , a young man, but very learned for his years. 12. Francifcus Rofti. i$. D. Do¬ minions Entamtel Cirffi. 14. Salvator Sea * tione. They complained to us of the inqdifx- tion, and their clergymens oppofition to the new philolophy; and of the difficulty they met with in getting books out of England, Holland , &c. At Naples, every fummer evening, be¬ fore the noblemens coaches make the Corfo in the chief fleets, feveral carts go With large veffels of water, that runs out behind, and on each fide, tc lay the duft. We have already touched upon fome other of their cultoms. The SpanifJj foldiers keep guard, five arid fix in a company, up and down the flreets. At the further end of the mole the Neapolitans have a guard. There is a marquils. that dwells in Naples, who was formerly a butcher. Six troops of horfemen, molt Burgun¬ dians and Germans , quarter in this city, and guard by turns, every night a troop ; an Engltjhman is one of their trumpeters. SpanifJj captains are known by their fmall canes tipt with filver, and the enfigns by their leading (laves trimmed with rib¬ bands. Mafanellos wife is now acommon whore, his brother and filler are dill in prifon. The Neapolitan noblemen and citizens fit and chat together, in the doors, in the frefco of the day. The campanile of the Carmelites makes a tall and fair (hew to the (eaward. The following is an.account of the ci¬ ty and kingdom of Naples, taken but of Beltrano. In Naples are thefe monafleries, with their number of fryars, idc. Viz. <5o8 A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy. Skiffon. No. of Fryars. 17 Convents of Dominicans. 781 1S-- Francifcans. 1013 8-—-- Augujlins. 428 10- Carmelites. 494 1 ■ -—- Carthufians. 100 1 --- Coelefiines. 90 2 -- Canonici Reg. S. Salat at. 27 1 -—— Cruciferi. 38 3 --- Canonici Reg. Lateranen. 250 1- Bene dill ins. 150 1- Olivet ani. 100 4 -■-— Minimi di S. Franc, di Paola. 201 3 1 1 t 1 3 1 6 6 3 1 3 2 3 2 6 11 - —- Servi del Parto- 56 - Er emit ani. 80 --- Camaidoli. 60 - Montevergine. 36 ——-- Bafiliani. 16 -Spanifh Monks. 71 --- fratri Benfratelli del B. Gio , &c. con vefiimento negro. 80 -— Jefuits. 387 --- If heat ins. 325 - Clerici Reg. minores.106 - Clerici Secolari. 280 _—— Mini fir i deg l’infer. 160 - Bernardites. 60 — --- Pii Operariij &c. 90 - Padri del Schaole. 55 — --— In the Confervatorii di figliuoli. 912 -In another. 2295 121 In all 8741 Alfo thefe nunneries, &c. 4-— Dominicans. 3 28 11-- Francifcans. 1041 4--- Augujlins • 396 1 “— Carmelites. 40 7--— Benedittins. 700 2 --—— Spanifh Nuns, 160 1 o--In the Confervatorii di Donne. 8 66 39 1 ° a11 353 1 10. Laurino. 11. Nocera. 12. Saler¬ no. 13. Sanfeverino. 14. Saponara. 15. Sarno. 16. Scala. 17. framonti 18. Ravello. 3. Principato ultra. 14. 1. Beneveno. 2. * Solofra. 3. Confa. 4. * a village Ariano. 5. Avellino. 6. Bifaccio. 7. or terra * S. Angelo de Lombardi. 8. Cedogna. 9. Montemarano. 10. Nufco. n.Vol- tcrara. 12. Vico. 13. Vicodella Ba- ronia. 14. S. Agata delli Groti. 4. Bafilicata. 11. 1. Lavello. 2. Melfi. 3. Policaflro. 4. Venofa. 5. Acerenza. 6. Muro. 7. Montepelofo. 8. Potenza. 9. Rapolla . 10. fricarico. 11. fur ft. 5. Calabria citra. 12. i. Mantea. 2. Cofenza. 3. Paola. 4. Montalto. 5. Roffa.no. 6. Bifignano. 7- Carjari. 8. Caffano. 9. Martorano. 10. Strongoli. 11. S. Marco. 12. Ubriatico. 6. Calabria ultra. 16. 1. Catanzaro. 2. Cot rone. 3. Squillaci. 4. faverna. 5. fropea. 6. Reggio. 7. Belcaflro. 8. Bova. 9. S. Severi- na. 10. Gieraci. n.L’Ifola. 12. Mon- telene. 13. Melito. 14. Nicaftro. 15. Nicotera. 16. Oppido. 7. ferra d’Otranto. 14. I. Gallipoli. 2. Lecce. 3. Brindifi. 4. Materra. 5. OJluni. 6. faranto. 7. Otranto. 8. Aleffano. 9. Cafiellaneta. 10. Caflro. ii. Motola. 12. Nardo. 13. Or/#. 14. Ugento. 8. If err a di Bari. 16. 1. Andria. 2. Bari. 3. Barletta. 4. Bit onto. 5. fen a di Mola. 6. Mol- fetta. 7. Monopoli. 8. frani. 9. C/o- venazzo- 10. Bifeglia. 11. Bitetto. 12. Converfano. 13. Gravina. 14. Monoruina. 15. Polignano. 16. Ruino. The kingdom is divided thus, f u/,z;. 1. 2 ^rr# Lavoro has thefe cities. 14. 1. Aver fa. 2. Capua. 3. Caferta. 4. Gaeta. 5. Ifchia. 6. Maffa Lubrenfe. 7. iVo/#. 8. Pozzuoli. 9. Ge^T#. 10. Sorento. 11. feano. 12. fraetto. 13. Venafro. 14. F/co Equenfe. 9. Abruzzo citra. 5. 1. Chiefi. 2. Sulmona. 3. Benevento • 4. Bovelle. 5. Ortona. 10. Abruzzo ultra. 5. 1. Aquila. 2. Atri. 3. Campli. 4. 0 - 17 /f# d/‘ Penna. 5. Teramo. 2. Principato citra. 18. 11. Contado di Molifi. 4. 1. Amalfi. 2. Campagna. 3. Capri. 4. 1. Boiano guar di a. 2. Alferes. 3. Jfer- Cafella. 5. Conturfi. 6. Eboli. 7. wa. 4- frivento. Cappaccio. 8. Gragnano. 9. Lettere. 12. Capi• Italy. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 12. Capitanata. 13. r. M S. Angelo. 2. Afcoli. 3. Bovino. 4. Fiorenzola. 5. Larino . 6- Lucera. 7. Lefina. 8. Salpe. 9. Vicejie. 10. Vulterara . 1 i. T' ermoli. 12. -S'. Sever0. 13. Manfredonia. So that, according to Beltrano , there are, in the kingdom of Naples , 142 cities, of which 20 are archbifhopricks, and 128 are bifhopricks, about 30 of them nominated by the king of Spain. Like- wife there are 87 princes, 122 dukes, 159 marquifies, 70 earls. The ge- The government confifts in the Seggii ; •vemment. tlie nobility chufe four Eletti di Nob ill , and the citizens eledt Riones , or Capi di Strada , who meet once a year and chufe one Eletto di Popolo. The Eletti are known by their black gowns. 5. Seggi di Nobili. 1. Capita. 2. Nido. 3. Montagna . 4. Porto. 5. Porta Nova. 7 Officii del Regno. 1. Contejlabile 0 Vice-Re. 2. Giujiiti- ero. 3. Ammirante. 4. Camerlingo. 5. Protonotano. 6. Cancelliero. 7. di?- nefcallo. 37 $tribunali Regii. 5 'tribunali Ecclefi- ajlici. 3. Chiefe ejfente della giurifd. det or dinar 10. Among the catalogues of archbifhops of Naples , is Pietro Bellenfe Archidiac. della chiefe Battonienfe in Ingleterra eletto Archivefcovo e renuncio tal dignitd. The vice-roy fends, for three years, to each province of Naples a prefident, and four Auditori his affiftants, one advocate and a procuratore fifcali. In Naples is a tribunal called the Vtca - ria, where all appellations of the king¬ dom are heard. In the council of ftate, called vulgarly Configlio di Spade e cappa, three are Spaniards , and three are Ita¬ lians. Tribunale Collateral, whofe counfel- lors are called Reggenti , and handle weighty matters. They are for life, and are part Spaniards and part Italians ; for Idler caules, both criminal and civil, are diverfe judges. The magiftrates are five noblemen, and one chofen by the people, who are confulted withal, by the vice-roy, before any impofition be lay’d on the citizens or inhabitants of the kingdom. One no¬ bleman out of a Seggio, as above. The Cafiellano of S. Elmo , acknow- Skippon. ledges none but the king his fuperior. 3000 Spaniards in the fortrefifes of the kingdom, and 1000 without, in feve- ral quarters under the Maeflro di Catnfio Span. EngliJJo merchants here ; Mr. Benjamin En g ljfh Child j two of the Chambers , brothers; merchants ' Mr. I’helwelf Mr. Bay am, Mr. Brooke , Mr. Foot (nephew to him at Ligornej Mr. Jofeph Kent. At Naples they have a long Ipring, and warm winter. Ver nbi Ion gum, tepidafq-, prxbet Jupiter Brnmas. Horat.l.2.0d.6„ IVednefday, April 27. Having the op¬ portunity of the fame Dutch fhip that brought us from Ligorne, Mr. Ray and myfelf took bolletins or bills of health for MeJJina, which were after this form. Gratis. Parte da quejla inclyta efedelijfmia Citta di B m q Napoli , Sano e libero ffiogni fofpetto di health mal contagiofo per gratia di Nojlro Sign, iddio, della fua madre fant iff - rna concetta fenza peccato Originate di [unto Gennaro, e d’altri [anti J'uoi Pro - tettori, rinfrafcritto per andare al fotto fcritto luogo: percio dunque capiterd, Ji potra con ejfo converfare, e contrattare dandoli libera e ficura prattica, & in fede, &c. Datum Neapoli in tribunals fanth Laurentii die 7. menfis Maii, Anno 1664. Filippo Skippon d* Ingleterra d’anni 22 incirco, giujta fiatura, Ca - pelli Caftagni. , , P. Mefiinai We left our fellow travellers, Mr. tFil- loughby and Mr. Bacon afhore, who in¬ tended for Rome , &c. In the afternoon we embarked in the S. Gertruda, the Dutch vefiel, and about midnight we fet fail. ! Thurfday , April 28. We failed be¬ tween Capo £Amalfi and the ifiand Capri, which is a large illand, having a bifhop’s fee in it; here are taken great numbers of quails that are fold at Naples. We had good gales and a rough fea this day. At night we had, for feme hours, a ftorm, with thunder and lightning ; but the next morning, Friday, April 29, we had fairer weather, which continued all night. Saturday, April 30. We had a ftrong gale of wind, which brought us this night to MeJJina. This day we pafs’d in fight of the ifiand of Stromboli, where we obfer- ved the fmoak arifing out of a burning 7 Q mountain, 6 ic A Journey thro' Part of the \ Italy. Skippon. SICILY. Jlina. The Jht- tue of Don Juan of Auftria. mountain, we had alfo on the right hand of us, Lipari, Felicnr, and other iflands. Lipari affords good raifins, and hath a bifhoprick in it. Before we entred the ftreight between Calabria and Sicily, or the Faro di Meffi- na (by our feamen called the vale of Meffinaj a pilot came to us, in a feluc¬ ca, and demanded 15 crowns, but took 10 pieces of eight, to guide the fhip into the port of Meffina , the entrance being dangerous by reafon of the ftroom or current here, which fometimes {hip-wrecks veffels, either on Scylla , the rocks of Ca¬ labria, or Cbarybdis , the finds of Sicily. Two months before, an Englijh fhip, cal¬ led the St. George, was run afhore on the land for want of a pilot. At night we got into the haven, but had no pratique till next morning, Sunday , May 1. When a felucca, with officerSjCame and enquired the {hip’s lading, &c. and told the number of mariners and paflengers, and took our bills of health, and foon after they gave us pratique. Dutch merchants came then aboard, and five of the fhips guns were fired to falute the town. We made our flay here, before we went for Malta , till 5 May ; and after our return, ftay’d from 22 May till 6 'June, and informed ourfelves of thefe particulars. Under the brafs ftatue of Don John of Auftria near the viceroy’s palace, are thefe infcriptions. Philippus Hifp. et Sicil. Re# inmiffius jux- ta ac Catholicus cum S. Pio V. Pont. Max. S. gh Veneto in Selinum Furcarum Prin. Orien. Tyr. Chrift. Nominis hofiem immaniff. fccdus componit. memoriam fempit. Joanni Auftrio.Fr. B. M. Fort iff. Fccliciff. % Principi S. II A. S. P. Q Meffan. P. Patribus Conf eriptis • Chriftophero Pifcio. Jo. Francifeo Balfamo. Don Gafpare Joenio Antonio Aciarello. Don Fboma Marchetto. Francifco Rhe- gitano mdlxxii. Thefe verfes are under the armado. Gefia fidem fuperant , Zancle, ne longa Ve- tuflas. Deleat , hcec mult us finxit in cere tuos. Under the pidlure of Zancle or Mefft- na , carved in brafs. Hofiem horis binis fuperas, datur cere Co- loffus Nunc eat et fatlis obftrepat inmidi a. Under the pidture of the battle. Jam fat is oftenfum eft quo fis Genitore Crc- atus Africa regna Parens, ipfe Afiana domas. Non fatis unus crat Vifto tanto hofte tri- y umphus Elfe triumph at or femper in cere potes. Fhuanus 1 . 50, pag. 747, lays • Chriftiana claffis conftdbat ccv. Namibtts, ac vi. major is formes.- Turcica,cc lx. conjlabat■, perierunt ex Fv.r- cis 25000 i capti 3500. Ex Chriftianis xv triremes deletce funt , t(Uarum x. Vcnetce fuerunt. de Chriftianis ad xcio ceciderunt . See alfo Paruta Hift. di Cypro. Joannes Auftrius Caroli V. femper Aug. Englifb merchants here. Mr. Nicb. Eng! ft Fil. Phil. Regis Fr. totius Claffis imp. Mead-, Mr. Laurence frelle a R. C. Mr. merchants, fumma omnium confenfione declaratur, Martin IVilkinfon , Mr. Jonathan Parker is in hoc portu Mamer. ccvn. longarum and Mr. Morgan. Namium fjl Majorum totius foederis A Jefuits college, where the novices A Jefuits claffe coadla ad xvi. Cal. OF. e freto live, is a pleafant building. They have c °bege. folmit. ad Echinadas inf. holfium Fur. three colleges more, and were building names Ion. ccxc. animo inmitt0 Non. another. It is reported, the citizens have OFob. aggreditur. inaudita celeritate in- lome controverfy with them, becaufe credibili Virtute exxx. ccepit. xx. par- they fend away the natives, and maintain tint flammis abflimit, partim mergit, re- ftrangers. Sometimes the Mefjancfa hquee Vix Emadere potuerunt. hoftiurn ad threaten to banifh them. x.vm credit, totidem Capit. Cbrift. Cap- Near this novitiatory is a fortification, timorum ad xv m. in libertatem afferit , over the gate whereof is written, E Forti et metu quern hoftibus immifit , Chrifto Dulcedo, and over another, under Jupi- femper Aufpice Remp. Chrift. liberamit. ters eagle and thunderbolt, Hofiem re- An. mdlxxi. pcllas longius. Meffanam mi. Non. A Tom. ViFor remer- We faw an engine for filk like that at tit. ingentiq ; omnium lectitia triumploans Bononia and Vicenza , only this was mov- Excipitur, ad gloriam ergo et ceternit. ed by a man that walked round within nominis Phil. Regis tanteeq. ViForice the engine. The halyi] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 6 ii The prefen t vice-roy’s name \s Franc ifco Gaetano Ducq de Sarmonetti 5 his palace is large and handlbme, having a proipedl upon the key. 1Zehaven. The ancients called this city Zancle , i. e. a icithe, to which is relembled the long neck of land that hooks in the haven, which is very fecure, and deep enough for (hips of 600 tuns to ride in, and unlade, at the very key fide. At the further point of the promontory, or neck of land, is a large and ftrong fort, cal¬ led Salvadore , with a lanthorn on the top of it. About the middle of the neck is the Carmelites convent, and about the begin¬ ning of it is a fquare wooden building, called the Lazaretto ; the Mejfanefe would have made it of {lone, but the Spaniards would not fuffer it, for fear that it might have been, upon occafion, turn’d into a fort. The key is very broad, where the coaches of noblemen make the corlo ; the front of houfes, upon the key, are adorned with fair balconies, {lately built and uniform. Here lie always the four galleys, tartano’s and felucca’s. Upon the key a great many gypfies have little fires of charcoal, which are blown either by their wives or children, and the men work fmith’s-work. There are no gates to the city walls. Here are great borgi or fuburbs. MeJJina is fituated under high moun¬ tains, and runs out in length by the haven’s fide. It is indifferently built (except the key-fide) and the flreets are naflily kept. ; ;i . The vice-roy of Sicily is chofen bv the gcc. ’ king of Spain every three years, and he ufually {lays 18 months here, and 18 months at Palermo ; which two cities have great emulation, each pretending to be head or metropolis of the kingdom ; and the cities, in Sicily , divide themfelves into their parties j Catania , &c. for Pa¬ lermo j Syracufa , 'frapanum , &c. for Meffma. In the tumults at Palermo , 1648, the Mejfanefe continued faithful to the king of Spain. The Palermitani would have made the prince of Botero king, whofe family is flill banifhed from com¬ ing to either of thefe cities without leave firft from the vice-roy. The king of Spain here calls himfelf prince in all fpiritual caufes, and there lie appeals, from the bifhops, to a judge called Monarchice Spiritualis judex , or iuquifitcr , and, in petitions, he is {tiled Beatiffime Pater. 1 he kings of Sicily iky, they are born Legati a Latere , and have power to punifii all clergymen. Baronins , in his nth tome, impugns this right j and therefore that book is fe- Verely prohibited in this and theNeapo- Srippun. litan kingdom. The Mejfanefe are counted uncleanly, proud and ill-conditioned towards {Iran- gers, but the Palermitani , they fay, are of a contrary temper. The gentries coaches, in MeJJina, mod: of them drawn by mules, and when they drive with four, they have a poflilion. Banditi, and other maleftdlors, efcapS hither out of Calabria , and thofe of Sicily efcape thither, where the vice-roy of Naples hath his jurifdidlion. The inha¬ bitants,, when they walk a mile or two out of their towns, carry long guns with them, for defence againft them. Some years fince, a gentleman was taken out of the llreets of Meffma , by the ban¬ diti, in the evening, and while we were gone for Malta , another Mejfanefe gen¬ tleman, travelling between Meffma and Melazzo , was taken by them ; but both were ranlomed. None are permitted to carry piftols in Sicily under a great penalty, except thofe of the Santo Officio. Great quantities of filk are made at MeJJina and Reggio in Calabria • there¬ fore many mulberry-trees are planted, and the leaves {old to feed the filk worms, which they call Cavalieri. Any ftranger may bring into Meffma. what he pleafes, without trouble offearch- ing, but going out, the Guardiani or fearchers examine him they attend up¬ on the Marina , or the fea-lhore, and ob- ferve what goes out of the port. None are fuffered to carry away above 10 feudi, like our EngliJJj cuftom, forbid¬ ding the tranfport of above 5 /. Ster. The killing of calves is prohibited in Sicily. No youths ('imberbes juveites) can tra¬ vel here without a pafs. Meffma air is counted good for fore legs, and bad for the head-ach, Reg¬ gio is efteemed good for the head. Thefenate-houfe at Meffma is an in¬ different building. In the piazza before it, is a fair fountain. When any decree is publifhed, a trumpet founds immedi¬ ately after, as we alio oblerved at Cata¬ nia and Syracufa. The Mejfanefe pretend great privi¬ leges from Charles V. and if the people are difpleas’d with the viceroy, the ju - rati intimate as much to him, and they fay he then departs from the city ; elle a great bell is rung, and all are in a fud- den tumult. The government of this city, fee in my colle&ion of governments, and in Mr. Ray. All the monies of Sicily are coin’d in the Zecco or mint of Meffma. ProvH 6 12 A Journey thro 5 of the Skipfon. Provifions are fold at a reafonable rate, tho’ the markets are not well ferv’d. The Spaniards have thefe forts, i. Caftello del Salvadore , on the very point of the neck of land at the haven’s mouth ; it is upon a rock, and the fea deep enough for a good frigate to convey men in by the boltfprit. 2. Ca. Matagrifoni. 3. Gonzaga. 4. Cajlelazzo. Thefe three laft are fituated upon hills, and the fe- cond and third without the city walls. The Mejfanefe , befides their walls, have alfo their forts. 1. S Giorgio. 2. S. Vincentio. 3. S. Giovanni , Be. See the map of MeJfina. Many Sbirri, or fuch as belong to the jujlitia , walk up and down the flreets every day, with a long gun on their fhoulders, a great horn of powder, and a large bag of fhot by their Tides ; they wear a long dagger behind them, and tie their hair up behind their ears. They have bailiffs here, that are known by their long wands. The French trade much hither. The vulgar Mejfanefe , at the firft ac- cofting of a perfon, fay Salute. They fpeak here, and all over Sicily , and the kingdom of Naples , a very cor¬ rupt Italian. In Calabria and Sicily they make great (lore of cheefe, which is very hard and white; but the better fort is alfo hard, of various fhapes, and made of Bufalos milk, but called Cafeo di Cavallo. In Sicily and Malta , they eat great (lore of chichelings raw. Sicilian horfes are counted good. Sici¬ ly, according to Cluvernts , is 600 miles in circuit. Mca/ures. Meafures ufed in Sicily, four Mun- delle equal to oneTumulo, 16 Tumuli equal to one Salma, and one Salma of corn (wheat) is worth now 24 Tare. Manganello equal to 12 ib. Good corn at Catania and 5 Trapano. Coral at F r, apano. Salt at Marfala. Meffina filk. Syracuja and Augujla wine. At a mountain called Cajlellum S. Jo- hannis , are falt-ftones ; it is near Enna. We were told, that at Zrapanum is a famous ftatue of the virgin Mary. The king of Spain hath one million of ducats yearly revenue in Sicily , befides donatives, fays Brietius. At Palermo are two long flreets, and they crofs one another; the palace, foun¬ tain and theatre, are remarkable there. When the Sicilian vefpers were, Sper- linga , a city on a hill, in the middle of the ifland, did not confent to the plot againft the French , but were favourable to them ; whence this verle. £hiod Siculis placuit fola Sperlinga ne- gavit. Italice. c Quel cha Sicilia piacq • Sola Sperlinga j'piacq ; See Buonfiglio and Fazellio of Sicily. About May 22. A great feftival began at Meffina , to the Madonna della facra lettera ; the original letter they fay is loft, but they pretend to have a true copy, which runs thus, Maria Virgo Joachim Filia Dei hiimillima, The Le Chrijli Jefu crucifixi mater ex tribit £f‘ l °f the Juda , ftirpe David , Mcffanenfibus ora- nibus faintem, et Dei Patris omnipo- the city of tentis benedittionem. Vos omnes fide Meiliiu. magna , Legates ac Nuncios per publi¬ cum documentnm ad nos mifijfe confiat , Filium noftrum Dei genitum Deum et Hommem ejfe fate mini, et in caelum pofi fuam refurreffionern afcendijfe, Pauli Apoftoli eleffi prcedicatione me¬ diant e viam vent at is agnofc elites - ob quod vos et ipfam civitatem benedici- mus cujus perpetuam Proteflricem nos ejfe volumus Anno Filii nojlri Xuf. Ind. 1. III. Nonas Junii. Luna xxvii. Fc- ria V. ex Hierofolymis. Maria Virgo, quae fupra hoc Chirographum approba- vit. But Baronins in his annals, A. G S. 25. fpeaking of the virgin Mary's writ¬ ings, fays, 4 Fertur ejufdem Dei Genetri- JgpeJlion'd 4 cis, epijlola ad Ignatium reddita ejuf- f Baro " 4 deniq-, Ignatii una ad ipfam feripta , dux nlu " 4 verb ad Joannem Evangelijtam de ea- 4 clem ipj'a loquentes. Sed Hieronymus B 4 alii antiqmores, qui ejufdem Ignat ii rc- 4 cenfuerunt epijlolas, eas non noverunt. 4 Lraduntur et alice ab ipj'a ad alias ferip- 4 tx civitates ; quas cunfias, cum careant 4 ecclefice auttontate nonniji in Apocry- 4 phorum clajfem rejiciendas ejfe, omnes 4 facile judicabunt. On every door almoft was fixed a printed paper, viz. Viva jimmaculata Madre di Dio fempre Vergina Maria della facra lettera, per- petua Protet trice della nob He ed ejfem- plare Citta di Meffina. And upon a feftival afterwards of the Franciftcans, on many places were fixed another printed paper, viz. Ad Meffanenfes ubiq } locorum facrx epi- ftolx B. Virg. Fejlum devotiffme reccl- lentes. Sumptus Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 613 Sumptus , labor cs, Elemofynx , gene rails poptili Conimunio , MiJJarum folemnia cxteraq ; confpicua opera , quibus oh acceptx memoriam epiftolx ardens MeJJanenfium exemplaris pietas B. Vir- gjni gyrates triumpbali magnificentia quotannis rependit , meliora mideri Ji dignijjhnas ejufdem in mams , anima- bits fidelium eorum defunttorum largi- unda commendentur , purgatorii poe- nis abfolutae in coelefli curia pro dulci Deiparae Chirographo fefturn laetabundae ip/'ae etiam celeb rent , ficq- 3 utraq ; mili- tans ac triumphans Meffana , benedidtio- nis obtcntae promijjaeq ; protediioms fruftum temporaliter prima expertam , aeternaliter altera jam confecuta in tanta folemnitate congaudeat. The fea/lof The feaft of the letter continued for K Ma- fo me days anc j njorhts. ^ May 22. Was this proceflion: Drum¬ mers, baftard wenches, or poor girls, veil’d and led by old women to church, where they communicated. Six of thefe wenches are married every year by the hofpital they were maintain’d in, and have each of them ioo fcudi. May 23. There was a great deal of jollity ; the caftles and forts fir’d their can¬ non, a great number of banners, car¬ pets, tapeftry, Sc. hung out of the houles, and every (hopkeeper dreff up his (hop with his wares, making altars and curious reprefentations; but the moft iplendid and rich, were the goldfimiths and drapers, having before their (hops (at this time) gilt and painted rails adorn’d with ftatues. The ftreets are crowded day and night with a multitude of fpe&ators. In the night was the molt fplendid Ihew, the fhops having tapers and candles good {tore, and paper lant- horns hung from moft windows ; upon the windows and balconies, lamps ftood very thick ; fo that the whole city feem’d to be of a flame in the night, which we obferv’d fome miles diftance off at fea when we came from Catania. May 21. The eve of the feaft, arriving at MeJJina at three hours of the night ; thefe fire-works made then a very great reflection in the air, which was difcern’d afar off On one of the banners was written Magna fides. The gentry and ladies in coaches rode the Corfo or tour in the chief ftrect. In a goldfmith’s fhop were two or three figures covered over with checquins. May 23. All day and night the fame jollity continued, and in the morning was another proceflion ; after the drummers went feveral men and boys with baskets full of bread, rice, Sc. for the priloners. Vol. VI. The cheelemongers and victuallers had Skippon, large booths covered with boughs before their Ihops, and in thefe booths, cheefes and pieces of bacon, Sc. hung very thick. All this feftival 500 sbirri kept guard in feveral places of the city. May 24.. Was the great feaft day fo- lemniz’d with the fame jollity, which was much difturb’d after dinner by great rain and thunder, and at night the lame bad weather difordered the proceflion of all the religious orders, who went two and two, with lighted torches in their hands, every order having its crofs, ban¬ ners, and a relick carried on mens fhoul- ders; and in this proceflion the copy of the V. Mary’s letter was carry’d. They came to the domo (a fair church) which was gaudily dreft up with gilt hangings, pidures, Sc. and as they began to enter the domo, a (lately fire-work (reprefent- ing wheels, Sc.j of a great jaeighth, be¬ gan to play. In the church, at the high altar, fix mitred perfons (hew’d the hoft to the people, and then they all gave a great fliout. Nigh the viceroy’s palace, was another fire-work, and in the great ftreet were ereCled leveral arches with infcriptions, pictures, Sc. All this night the thunder and rain continued, and the temped Lifted till next morning. The Bancho , or exchange, is an open place (part of which is built) like that at Genoa , but not fo big, where is this in- fcription. D. O. M. Pbilippo IV. Regum potentijjimo. Nego- tiatorurn ufui ac dignitati , quorum etiam frequentia femper urbs bxc inclyta fuit^ meter is fori elegantiam addita Bajilica fpatiis, profpedtu , ope re auxit amplica- mitq-, Senatus Mamertinus. D. 'Jaco¬ bus Campulo Baro Bonmicini. Sebajlia- nus de Marinis. D. Franc 1feus Spata- fora. Joan. Petrus Arena. D. Cxfar Pifci. Antonius Angioia , 1627. Nigh the exchange, on the key-fide, is a fair ftatue of Neptune. We vifited Dr. Jo. Petrus Corminus , Nephew to Dr. Petrus Cafellus Romanus the famous phyfician, who led us thro’ a fubterraneous paffage from his houfe to the city ditch ; which being dry, is al¬ lowed by the Meffanefe for a phyfick p/, 7 c^ garden ; it is of good length and breadth. Garden. Cajlel/us was the firft botanick profeftor here ; he divided the garden into 12 quarters, called by the apoftles names. Under one of the city bridges is a fchool where botanick IeCtures are read, and under another bridge is a room where skeletons of animals are preferv’d. Cor- 7 R minus 6*4 A journey thro' Sko’pon. vinus (hew’d us his fludy left him by his uncle, who in two quarto volumes, delcrib’d in painting and writing feve- ral infedts, which Cg r vinus confelfed him- felf not able to be at the charge of print- ing. The Studio or fchools, is an unfinifhed building frequented by few fludents. Over the gate is written. D. 0 . M. Pbihppo III. Rege inviAiJJimo. Mejfana Protometropolis ingeniorum ferax ac veins artium bon arum parens , ne quod ad literarice reip. fplendorem et com- modum defideretur Athenaeum erexit. Senatoribus juratis, Pbtlippo Cigala. Marcello Cirino. D. Pctro Saccana. Joanne Pellegrino. D. Mauritio Porcio. Jo. Baptijla Celio. Anno cioioc 111. Within, over an entrance to a pair of flairs, Sc. D. 0 . M. Mejfana. S. P. & R. Imperatorum Regumq $ de¬ er eto (Jobs Ncbilis et Regni Caput pub¬ licum fcieHtiarum Gymnafium J'olis clafi- fium fcholis deftinatum majore Jchola- fiicorum frequent ia confluente ad com- rnodiorem dijputationum ufum rnagni- ficis gradibus aulaq, peraugujla augers vo lu it. Senatoribus. D. Marcello Cirino Barone Santi Baft In, Equite Sanfti Jacobi. D. Nicolao Maria Paparda. Caefarc Pifci. Carolo Vefalli. D. Placidio Marullo. Lucio Pellegrino, mdcxxx. Placidius Reiua , a Bolognefe , is chief profelfor, and none but a flranger can be in that place. The hofpital is fair and large - y over the entrance of it is written, the fides operatin' per charitatrem. Another hofpital where poor girls are maintained till day of marriage, Sc. and have then ioo feudi given them. One afternoon while we were at Mef- fina , came into port two Malta gallies, hung full of colours, flags, banners, Sc. upon the mails, fails, Sc. which made a very fair fhew ; which gallies received pratique , and then they gave four guns, anfwered by Ca. Sal¬ vador c with three ; then gave the viceroy four, who anfwered alio with three. At laft the gallies of Sicily were faluted with four, who returned their welcome with three (hot. They came for money, which they had of their receiver, who collects all their revenues in this ifland. Part of the [Italy. The knights of Malta have a church at Mejfiua, called the Priorato of S. John , where the priefts that attend wear a white crofs on their left fhoulder. On Corpus Chrijli day, was . a great proceffion, and we took notice of one or¬ der of friars habited in white, without fhoes or llockings, having only fandals on. They are of St. Carlo Borromeo’s order. In the fenate-houfe, we obferv’d in the hall a great many pictures explain’d by their inferiptions, viz. Digito feribe- bat in terra , Joan. vi. Reddidit Chiro¬ graph uni fitum, Tob. ix. Scripfit univerfis populis , Dan. vi. Mittam literas ad re¬ gem Jf'rael , Reg. iv.Se. where the words Liters and feribo , Sc. is only mentioned j all referring to the V. Mary’s pretended letter to this city. Here are preferv’d three old figures, i. Scipio Africanus. 2. Annibal Barchi- nits. 3. M. c t- Cicero. Over a door is written, Gramerci a MeJJina. Under a picture of MeJJina with her flourifhes, is inferib’d, S. P. R. deer eto. DeviAo Hierone ftatuit me Sicilice caput , titulo nobili- tat is extollit et fungi pot eft ate Rom ana, deinde pofl acceptas a fantlijfima Dei Genetrice literas fub ejns dulcijfima tu- tela ita floral, at region animi ccelitus propulfi principem me adhuc in toto regno confirmarint hifq ; flummis digni- tatibus quas hie vides exprejfas me exornarunt. Over her head is written, Regni Caput. May 26. We hired a boat with three men and a boy, and w r ith a good wind, Rcg0 .; 0 - m loon arriv’d at Reggio in Calabria, 12 Calabria, miles from MeJJina. It is a bifhop’s fee, but feems to be a poor place, and is meanly built it calls itfelf Citth fedele. Towards the fea-fide it is well fortified with walls. Sc. Without the walls are large gardens full of fruit trees. Great quantity of filk is made here, which they fell at Mefflna. The king of Spain and the priefts have their (hare in the filk. Here they make pretty flraw-boxes. In the gardens w r e faw pots they pre- ferve grapes in all winter, which have large bellies with narrow mouths, and almoft half one of the Tides is to be open’d for the putting in of the bunches, after that it is fhut up clofe. We law the Hirundo Pifcis here. Monte Afpero not far from hence, noted for nmples or rare plants. And fix miles oflf ; s S. Agatha, a flrong city in the mountains. A frtle diftance without the walls is a chape), and over the door of it is written, Cbrifins Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 615 Chrijlus nobificum fiat Petrus Apofiolus , ct Paulus D obi or Gen¬ tium , ipfi nos docuerunt legem tuam , Domine. Within the chapel, behind the taber¬ nacle, is prelerv’d within a glafs, as a relique, a piece of the pillar which they fay fhined when S. Paul preach’d here - 3 it was broken by the T’nrks when they took this place, and this piece was kept at Mejjina , till they brought it hither ; the Jefuits would have carry’d it to their A legend, college, but many men could not then move it 3 but refolving to place it in this chapel, one man’s ftrength was iufficient. This inicription on the wall concerning it. D. O. M. Pbtlippo IIII. Hifpariiarum Rege invibiifi- fiimo- D. Innico Velez de Guevara et ifajfis , Comite de Ognate et Villa Media- na in regno prorege. D- Sebajtiano de Elizondo Rbegu belli pacifq; pnefecio. Cbrifiophorus Spano. Paulus Baronus ex Marco et Francifcus Deni. Rbegii Syn¬ dic i. Eum qui per Corufcans Columnce lumen nobis , lumen fidei revelavit , jure jub hoc chryftallorum melamine una cum columna veneramur , Anno Domini MDCLIII. We return’d at night (having the wind favourable) to Mejjina. May 28. We hired a boat, and went terra terra to the tower or Pharos of Charybdis (nigh the Pharos are lakes) Scylla undby reafon the current was againft us; and Charybdis. then we crofs’d over to Calabria, and went clofe to a rocky fhore, till we came to Scylla , now called Capo dcllo Sciglio , where, on the point of a rock, is leated a ftrong caftle, and behind that is a large village, 18 miles from Mejjina. Here we flay’d about two hours, but could not fee any of the Iword-fifh ( Pefce fpada ) taken, , r 7 but law the fifhing boats, and were in- jer vifcc formed of the manner of fifhing. Six Spada. men fometimes belong to a boat, which hath a little mafl in the middle, and above half way up the mafl is a round board, whereon one of the crew Hands obferving the motion and cries of a guardiano or fellow’s hand and voice, who watches up¬ on a tower, or high rock, on the fhore, where the fifh diflurb the water; and upon his notice,then the boatmen row and turn the boat about very fwiftly, and the man upon the mafl perceiving the fifh near ; comes down, and takes a launce or harping iron, which hath a long rope at Si: "’ P0NT one end, and that he throws at the fiffi, ' w ^ v ~ s ' which being flruck, plays about till it is faint, and then they take it up into the boat. This fifh is very large and long, of a darkifh colour on the back, having a long fnout like a broad tw r o-edged fword, and fharp at the point. The under jaw runs out but a little length. It has no teeth. About the middle of the back is a great fin, and not far from the tail is a lhaall fin. A pair of fins behind the gills, and a pair behind the vent. The tail is forked, and near it are two cal¬ lous fubflances like two fmall fins. The meat of this fifh is much efleem’d in thefe parts, the flefh of it being fold for 36 grani per rotam, and at Mejjina for 50 grani. All the flefh is very firm, but the befl of it is under the belly. We law feveral of thefe fifhes they had taken, and obferv’d three priefts fifhing for them. In the afternoon we returned to Mefi- fina, having the current or flream againft us, therefore kept clofe to the Calabrian fhore,then crofs’d over to Sicily , where we went ribba ribba, or terra terra, i.e. by the fhore, till we came to Mejjina. They told us there are eight ftrong currents they call Reme , contrary to one another, four always defeendente , and four mon- tante. Between the Pharos and Mejjina , is a round chapel with a portico about it, under a cliff, and called Madonna dello Grotto ; then we paft by a handfome pleafure-houfe of a nobleman, which is called Paradifo. After that we came by a monaftery, where fome live according to the rules of S. Bafil the Greek father ; a little further we pals’d by a fair convent of the Francifcans di Paolo. Nigh it is a large village. Between that convent and Mejjina are pleafant walks of poplar trees, where the coaches take the evening Jrefico. At Mejjina we obferved many fiflier- boats with fire in an iron grate at the ftern, w'hich in the night go out to fea, and take great ftore of Sardene , that flock about the light. Needle-fifhes taken here at one time of the year, which they fay are purlued by the Porcopificc , againft whom they defend themfelves, by ga¬ thering in a round body together, and pointing their fharp lnouts outwards. Great variety of rare plants about Mejjina , and in Sicily. A Mejjina ajfai polce , polvcre & pit* tane , is a proverb. We 616 A Journey thro 9 Tart of the {Italy, Skippon. We took bills of health for Malta , which were after this form : Da quefta nobile e Efifiemplare Citta di Mefi- fina ft parte Filippo Skippon Inglefe . . . ■ d’eta d'anui 22. fiat nr a .... per efifier d Dio piacendo in Malta——percib dove Capitera fie li potrd dare libera prattica , fiante cbe in detta Citta per gratia del Signore e della Madre Sant'ififima della lettera nofira Auvocata , e particolare Protettrice non vi e fiofipett-o alcuno di rnorbo Contagiofio- Mefifiina a di 14. Mag- gio. 1664. Gio. Giacomo Hofes. May 5. We imbark’d in a felucca with fix rowers, and a padrone, who fteer'd ; and having a favourable wind, pals’d in fight of la Scalcra , a fmall town on a hill, where is the monaftery of S. Placidius belonging to the Benedictines 5 Taormina ; and rowed between Capo di Molini and three rocks, called Li Fara - gliuni , antiently Rapes Cyclopis ; then came into profpeCt of Ac is , a fmall place on a hill, and early in the afternoon ar¬ riv’d at (60 miles diftant from Mefifiina'. ) Catania. Catania , where we took up our lodging this night, provided our own meat, and paid for the dreffing, according to the cuftom of the country. The {bore is rocky near this city. 1 {hall take farther notice of this city in another place. May 6. We took boat, and crofs’d the gulf of Catania j then pafs’d by Au- gufta and Lifiola de li Manghefi , antiently Tapfins , a peninfula ; about noon arriv’d Syracufa. at Syracufia , above 50 miles from Catania. Thefhore is rocky hereabouts, where U’e obferv’d beacons with ftraw, which they fire when the c turkijh pirates come nigh. This city is only the infula which was antiently Ortygia , having on the eaft a haven, called Pcrtus Marmorus ('minor ), becaufe the bottom, they fay, is paved with ftone: and on the weft is Porto Magno , a haven which Strabo , p. 271. fays, is 80 fiadia or furlongs large. The ftreets are but narrow, and the houfes mean. Nigh the cathedral is the bifhop’s palace and the lenate-houfe, with another fair building before a fmall piazza. This ifland is join’d to the terra firma by one gate, called Porta Realis , where are four or five arches remaining of the Yemplnm Diana. On this fide is a double wall; the innermoft very ftrong, and the other well built: and without the walls on this fide is a good counterfcarp, and a large ditch of water, having the fides lin’d with ftone , but towards the Porto Magno it is not fo well fortify’d. The caftle is called Manetto , feated on the point of land towards the fea. Santa Lucia is protettrice of this city, whofe body is carry’d to Venice. The women here and at Catania , when they walk abroad, wear long black mantles, that reach to their feet, and cover their head and faces with a long peak. The wine hereabouts is much in efteem, being ftrong and of a red colour. It is fold here for four grani per quartuccio. Syracufie not well peopled. Antiently Syracufie comprehended 180 Aatiqui- fiadia or 22 miles and a half, and was tles - divided into four parts; viz- 1. Acra- dina. 2. fiycha. 3. Neapolis. 4. Ortygia Infiula , where was the fountain of Are - tbufia. Epipola was the farther part on the continent, where were quarries of ftone, called by Brietius , in his geogra¬ phy, Lapidicina Tyrannorum , and Latomice Career. We were beholden to Padre Polycarpo a Carmelite monk, (who with our leave came along with us from Mefifiina , and was going to Malta ) and P. Bernardino of the lame order, who procured a gentle¬ man’s coach, and carry’d us three miles, and {hewed us the ruins of old Syracufie. We obferv’d a place, called Auricula Dionyfiii , which is a cave refembling the windings in the ear, where, they fay, the tyrant had a chamber adjoining, and could hear all that was laid by thole im- prilbn’d here. Nigh this is another cave more lightfome, and fupported by pillars cut rudely out of the rock ; and juft by is a tower upon a {lender rock. In ano¬ ther cave they now make falt-petre, and cords. Half a mile from the prefent town, we came to a church dedicated to S. Antonio , where each of us took a lighted candle and entred the catacumbe or antient vaults, formed into fcveral ftreets, having on each fide long arched caves full of loculi or graves, of the length of men and children ; a. b. the fubterraneous palfage or ftreet, c. the entrance into the cave, 0. 0. 0. the graves cut out of the rock. In many places we law round arch¬ ed rooms lhaped like cupola’s, which were open on the top. Some think there were covers to every grave. Some Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 61 7 of thefe paflfages are faid to reach a great way under ground, and Lome we obferv’d above ground. Nigh the cave, about Dionyjius’s ear, are the ruins of an am¬ phitheatre, the lower feats whereof are cut out of the rock. May 7. We entred our felucca, and the padrone fent a tar 's to the cattle ; then fometimes failed, and fometimes rowed, and pafs’d by cape Mafia Uli’vieri, Razi Canzir , the iflands Longhina and Bindicari ; and in the afternoon we landed at Capo Pajjaro , antiently Pacby- num Promontorium ; which about four or five years ago, they l’ay,was feparated from the continent of Sicily , and is now a little ifland, where is a fmall cattle garrifon’d by 12 Spanijh foldiers and a cattellano. About 40 miles from Syracufe to this place: Where we ftay’d one day and two nights, the weather being not favourable, but were not permitted to lodge in the cattle, but in a little chapel, and there lay upon a hard bed (on the floor) that the prieft lent us. On the fhore, between Syracufe and cape Pajfaro , we obferv’d many ftone pillars fet together at fome diftance one from another, which have covers of reeds laid over them for the filhermen to lodge under, f Sc. in fifhing- time. The Carmelite fryar who came with us from MeJJina , was very civil and help¬ ful to us ; he feem’d to be not very fu- perftitious, when he fet our meat and drink down upon the altar-table in the chapel we lodg’d in ; but then, he {hut the door, and fwept all clean before he open’d it again. He was born in the ftate of Venice ; and he told us, he was employ’d by the Venetians at Conftantinople as a fpy, and by means of a renegado there did difco- ver fome affairs ; but at laft he was dis¬ cover’d, and forc’d to retire privately. He hath travell’d Germany , the Low- Countries, France , Spain , Turkey , and Perfia ; and fpeaks thefe languages, French , Spanijh , Latin , Greek , Italian , i turkijh, and Arabick. From him we receiv’d many informa¬ tions, viz. That in the college of car¬ dinals, four ought to be monks; but at this time there were but two ; ’viz. one Jeluit, and one Dominican. The Francifcans general allur’d the pope of 30,000 Francifcan fryars (ex¬ cluding the Capuchins) fighting men. That there are many orders habited like the Jefuits. 1. The Theatins, who are diftinguifh’d by their longer beards. 2. Thomaflni. 3. Barnabini. 4. Thofe of S. Antonio, who wear a red crofs on their left fhoulder. Vol. VI. The Carmelite fryars are habited in a Skippcn. dark red, and have a lacinia of the fame fifff ' ftuff hanging behind and before; their head or cucullus is of the fame; about tncliten their middle they wear a leather girdle: when they go abroad they wear a white cucullus : they wear no linnen fhirts, but inftead of them linfey-woolley, which they change twice a week in the iummer, and once a week in the winter: at their firft inftitution they wore no fhoes and ftockens; but afterwards they had liberty to wear them: but Santa Fverejia of Spain reform’d them, and oblig’d them to be difcalceate again. By their rules they are not permitted to eat flefh, except when they are fick, or travelling by fea. When they vifit any fick perfon, they mutt not beg any thing for themieives or convent. If a Carmelite travelling, comes to a convent of the order, and the prior denies him admittance, he is, ipfo faflc, depriv’d of his place. The travelling monk hath his feet ufually wafh’d by the prior prefently upon his arrival, and his garments, if he will, changed, and is treat¬ ed with great refpebt for four or five days like a ftranger. If a monk falls fick a he is then under the care of the infir mar ius , and the prior hath nothing to do with him till he recovers : the prior is to watch with him every night the firft hour, if the provincial be not in the convent; then the reft take their turns to watch, two and two at a time. The prior is chofen by the chapter once every three years by major voice. The generals of this order are two, and continue three years: one for Italy , Gernlany , &c. the other for Spain , have- ing fix provinces under him. In topo¬ graphical maps of their convents, Spain is omitted, but in the reft of Europe are about 200 convents. At mount Carmel there is one; five in the Eajl-Indies .* that at Goa is a ftately cloitter. Four in Perfia ; five in Syria and Palefiina ; and fix in the IVeft-Indies. Nigh Lyons they have 33 Cura, and great privileges in a jurifdidiion of theirs, where they have a cattle, and fend a fecular judge to con¬ demn malefa&ors to death. If a monk of this order lies with a woman, he is prohibited faying of mafs for three or four years, and he hath no fuffrage; he is declared infamous, and obliged to chaftife himfelf publickly once a week. If he afterwards repents, and lives honeftly, he is reftor’d to his voice, and other privileges, but feldom or never ele&ed into any place of note. If again he commits the fame fault, his penance is double, and he is enjoin’d to faft with bread and water : If he be guilty a third 7 S time. < 5 1 8 A journey thro'' Part of the [Italy, Skutot . time, a greater penance is requir’d, and he is immediately expell’d the order. They wear a wooden crofs on their left bread, thus fhap’d -j-. May 9. We lanch’d out with our fe¬ lucca in the morning, and ventur’d rafh- ly 30 miles to lea ; but having contrary winds, and rough waves, we were forc’d back to the firlt Ihore, (we endeavour’d to land at Puzzalu , but it was dangerous, byreafon the waves broke violently againft the fpiaggio or rocky fhore) and came to a promontory, call’d Punta dt Ctrciola , (where we day’d till May 12.) where is a little haven for boats, and always a watchman or guardiano , who has a horfe ready to ride up into the country, and give notice of any '•Turks upon the coad. \\ e lodg’d in his imall hut, confiding of a low done wall, and a cover of boughs ^ J f of trees ; and bougnt wine and lome provifions, which, with a tortoife wc took at fca, made good chear. The catch- This tortoife w'as large, and eat pretty mg of fia- W ell roafted and boil’d, the younger the tortofes . better ; the liver taded well, and the blood of it boil’d in the throat is good meat, and eats as well as a blood pudding. We took feveral in our return from Malta ; fome as they lay deeping, or very dill upon the fuperrkies of the fea, were taken up by the boatmen, who brought the boat filently near ’em ; others they come nigh to with their boat, and the tortoife being didurb’d, a mariner being dripp’d, leap’d into the fea and dived after it, and brought it up with the belly upwards, having more drength fo to command the druggling of the tortoife. Upon mod of the tortoifes we law little crabs dickingto them ; and on Bcmacle- one duck a great bunch of bernacle- fells. fhells, which were large, and full of a purplifh water j over the flefh within was a white membrane ; and in fome wc difeern’d plainly a milt or fpawn, and they moved their cirrhi or feather’d parts in and out as they pleas’d. Many rare plants here, and echini fpatagi , with other fhells. May 12. At break of day, rewarding the watchman, and the boatmen, giving him a tarty wc let forth, and had calm weather, fo that we rowed almod all the way - and about half way over, came into fight of Gozzo , an ifland near Malta ; and in about fix or feven hours time laftly crofs’d this canal of about 60 MALT.'., miles, and fafely arriv’d at Malta , having mod part of the way mount JEtna and the Sicilian fhore in view. At our fird appearance, a flag was fet up on thecadle wall, (when fhips and other veffels are in light, they alfo let up flgns) ; and when we were entring the port, a fentinel call’d to us, and ask’d, What news? Whence we came? &c. Then a felucca met us, with an officer of the Sanitd , who en¬ quir’d, What news? &c. and took our bolletins of health, and gave us pratique. Early in the afternoon we landed, and obferv d upon the fhore many people gazing upon us. During our day here, we took notice of thefe particulars. One morning we faw the grand mader coming from mafs ; many knights went before him : his name is Nicholas Cot- toner , of Majorca, whole brother was his immediate predecefTor j this gentleman is antient, and of mean dature ; his habit was a gown with fleeves fomewhat like our lawyers, whereon a crofs upon the left fhoulder, and on his bread he wore another crofs; after him follow’d his counlellors and pages. It being the cudom for drangers to give him a vifit, we went to his palace, and pafs’d thro’ a hall, where were pi&ures of all the famous lea-fights the Maltefe knights have been maders in: at the upper end was a canopy and chair of date. Then we came thro* two or three rooms to the great mader, who fpoke very kindly to us. Brietius fays, the revenue of the order is 300000 aurei, befides what they get from the Turks : and the great mader hath 60,000 aurei per annum. The government of Malta , and of the Cittd Notahile or Vecchia , fee in Mr. Ray and my collection of govern¬ ments. The knights being divided into feveral eights of nations, every nation hath its albergo or Malta, hall, where they dine and fup. We went to that belonging to the French • which is a fair building, having a large hall, buttery, &c. There is an alberge defign’d for the Englijh, but at prefent nothing befides a void fpace of ground wall’d in ; which the order will not fuffer fhould be put to any ufe : yet, hoping that the Englijh nation may turn Roman Catho- licks, and have occafion for it, they chufe a prior of England : at this time Cau alter q Mellino is prior. Every nation hath its fuperior, one of the antiented amongd them, who wears a crofs upon his bread, and another upon his left fhoulder, and fits at the upper end. Thefe fupe- riors are the gran croce , and of the great mader’s council. The Englifo are now made uncapable of having a great mader of their nation. He is attended by 24 pages, who mud be nobly born ; and when they are grown men, they are ad¬ mitted into the order. The number of knights amounts to fome thoufands, but mod are abfent, being either in the gal- Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. <51$ leys or with their friends in their own country. About 800 were now reliding in Malta. Such as are taken into the order, mud prove their noble defcent for four gene¬ rations, and mud fwear before the gran croce and great mader, and vow chadity, to or 30 poverty and obedience. None can wear k (erveina, t ^ ic cro ^ s C 'H they have been abroad in galley at a fervice three years 3 but they are ufually time. difpenc’d with after a year. They wear a crols on their left fhoulder, and a filver crols hangs at their breads, thus lhap’d 3 but the crofs they have in their banners is like the Eng- liJJj crols, and is quarter’d with the great mader’s arms. The knights take place according to their leniority. They lodge, where they pleal'e, in the city. They were fird call’d hofpitalieri , from an hofpital dedicated to S. 'John Baptift at Hierufalem. Then they were call’d knights o£ Rhodes 3 which ifland they were in poffelfion of from 1308 till 15223 when they were beaten out by Soliman the Grand Turk. And A. D. 153c, they had Malta given them 3 Clement VII. be¬ ing pope, who was a knight of this order, and Charles V. emperor. They take this oath 3 which I fhall tranfcribe out of Bojius his hidory Della S. Religions di S. Gio. Gierofohmita.no , pag. 63. Io N. faccio Voto , e prometto d Dio Otn- nipotente , alia Beata Maria Sempre Vergine Madre di Dio , a S. Gio¬ vanni Battifta d’ojfervare perpctua- viente con fajiito di Dio , Vera Ubi- denza d qualunque Superiore, che mi fard dato di Dio , e dalla noflra reli- gione 3 e di piu , vivere fenza pro - prioj e d'ojfervare Cajlitd. About the porto arc thele three cities. 1. Cittd Valetta. 2. Cittd Vittoriofa. 3. Cittd fenglea. La Citta La Cittd Valetta is not much above 100 Valetta. years old, being begun 1566. It is built upon part of a tongue of land, between the Marfa or chief port 3 and Marfa MaJ- cietto (where fhips make their quaran¬ tine, and in the midd of it is an ifland, where the lazaretto is built : it feems al- mod impregnable, having very drong fortifications round, and a deep rocky cliff to the N.W. and S. E. and at the point of land a drong cadle, called Ca. S. Elmo. Two of the walls bulwarks have large portici (to walk in) built upon them 3 and on one is a pretty garden and fountain 3 and near the water-gate is a handfome garden with fountains in the ditch. Great dore of cannon are ready planted on the platforms. ^ v ''“ 1 This place was formerly a void fpace of ground, and in Arabick was call’d, Sceb e Ras 3 and where Ca. S. Elmo is, La Guardia. This city is 1500 rod Jeanne') long, and 380 broad. The dreets, not yet pav’d, are eight in length, and there are 12 crols dreets, all running in drait lines, but the rock they are built on, makes them uneven, there being many afeents and del'cents, yet the two chief dreets are indifferently even 3 in one ot which, chief merchants and citizens live 3 and in the other, nigh the palace, many knights dwell. Abela , in his delcription of Malta or Malta IIIliftrata , fays, There are 1891 houfes, and 10,744 inhabitants. The houfes are generally low built, and all flat roofed, the roofs have a firm plai- der, whereon they lleep in the fummer nights in the open air without prejudice, the air being very clear 3 and tho’ it is the mod louthern part of chridendom, yet here is ufually a frefh and gentle breath of wind that tempers the heat 3 people living to a good age in this place. The market-place is neat, having a piaz¬ za rounded with a portico full of dal Is, all built of done. Great dore of provi- fion here every day of all forts, and for a reafonable rate, though mod cf it is brought out of Sicily 3 whence they bring beef, veal, lamb, wine, fnow from Adtna^ Z 3 c. (Snow is fold for one tare per rotamd) They had pretty dore of draw- berries at this time, and little frelh cheefes like curds 3 good little cheefes made of fheeps milk. It is a faying here, La gallina in fdcco, & lo formagio in gabia 3 i. e. Hens in facks , and cheefes in coops or cages : For the country people bring thofe commodities fo to market. Towards the land or S. W. is a drong and high wall, a deep ditch cut into the rock 3 as are alfo the bulwarks, and half moons, having deep ditches 3 and with¬ out them, a curious bread-work or coun- terlcarp. Over the gate here is in¬ fer ib’d, D. O. M. Fr. Jo. de Valetta facrx domus Hofp. Hierofol. M. Magifier pcriculorum anno fiperiore d fuis militibus populoq-, Meli - tao in obfidione ’Turcica perpefforum memor de condenda Urbe nova , eaq, moeniis , arcibus Vd propugnacuhs ad fttftinendam vim omnem , propulfandofq 3 inimici Turcx impetus , aut faltem re- primendos , muniendam , ini to cum Pro- ceribus Coucilio die Jovis xxviii. Mar- tii , mdlxvi. Deura Omnipotent era Dei- paramq- t Virginem et Nurnen tutelare D. Johanncm Baptijlam Di'vofq 3 Ccete- ros 620 A Journey thro' Part of the \ltaly. Skifpon. ros multa precatus , ut faujlum felixq ; religioni Chriftianx fieret , ac Or dint fuo , quod inccptabat bene cederet , prima Urbis fundamenta in monte ab incolis Sceberras vocato jecit , eamque de fuo nomine Vallettum (dato pro Infignibus in parma Miniata aurato LeoneJ appellari Voluit. Fr. Antonius de Paula. M. Mag. invi- 61 iff. Conditoris tantxq ; rei monim. P■ C. anno ab Urbe fundata lxviii. Two bow-fhoots beyond this wall, there is another very ftrong, almoft finifh’d crofs from one port to the other, where are good bulwarks, a ditch, and a counterfcarp cut all out of the rock. Thefe bulwarks, and thofe at the city, are made hollow, to blow up, if there be occafion. Between thefe two walls is a large and void fpace of ground, which can receive all the inhabitants in the country, if they fhould be urged to it by an enemy. On one of the fartheft bul¬ warks, the Capuchins have a convent and gardens. A bulwark that had gunpowder in it, was blown up by lightning a few years fince. In this fpace is a pell-mell of an elliptick figure. Thefe verfes at one end ; Otia quo pereant, pereantq ; cupidinis Artes H>re et d di viii. di , is the D A foundation remaining of the outward wall, and the long fquares within are the foundations of the l'uppos’d baths. Our Padrone of the felucca took here a bolletin, which he paid five julii for. July 3. We embark’d and paffed by Capo d’Antio , Nettuno , S. Lorenzo and Patcrno , and having gone fifty miles,came to the Spiaggio or fhore nigh the river tfybur, and lay under our tent upon the fand, nigh a tower called S. Michael. The air here is counted bad, by reafon of a waterifh or moorifh country near, and great l'erenes or dews that fall here in the fummer. July 4. We pafs’d the Fiumaria, or the mouth of ‘Tybur , and with a favour¬ able wind went this day 90 miles, and were in fight of S Giorgio , Palo , S. Seve¬ rn, S. Manned a, P. di Civitd Vecchia , and Civita Vecchia , which we could dil- cern was well walled, belonging to the pope, who hath five gallies there. Hence our Enghfio fhips fetch allum. The air there is counted bad. Then we ftill kept largo or at diftance from the fhore, and went by Corneto , M. Alto , Capalbio and Aufedonia , and were in fight of Por- SKirpoN. to Hercole , a wall’d town on a high cliff, and belonging to the Spaniards. Ifola d’ Hercole is a little diftance from it. Afterwards for 14miles we fetch’d a com- pafs about Monte Argentaro , and lodge d this night at S. Stefano , under a fair tower defended by 14 Spanifh foldiers. Five miles from hence is Orbitello , a city of the Spaniards feated in the water, on the narrow of a promontory. We faw at a diftance this day, the iflands of Gianuti , Zanara and Gigio , and a little one nigh S. Stefano. July 5. We ftay’d all the morning (by reafon of ftorms with terrible thunder and light’ning) and in the afternoon en- golfed in fight of Lelamone (which is un¬ der the Spaniards ) and at 25 miles di¬ ftance arriv’d at a fmall port under a tow¬ er called Calo di Furno belonging to the duke of Florence. Here we found fhells which are commonly called Guiney mo¬ ney. July 6 . We went but 18 miles this day to a tower called lo Molino , being in the duke of Florence’s country ; but the king of Spain s country mingles with it. There are four towns together of which every other belongs to the duke. We had here great tempefts or Burako’s. The country hereabouts is pleafant and woody, but defolate. We found Cicadac here, and the Opercula Conchanim , cal¬ led by the Italians Occhie di S. Lucia. Froia is a fmall ifland with a tower, a cannon {hot from lo Molino. The wind in thefe leas is obferved commonly to blow from the fhore in the morning, and from the fea in the afternoon. July 7. With a favourable wind we came to Piombino , a walled town of a prince of that name, who is of the family of the Ludovifii. Here our boatmen paid about half a pezzo or fcudo toll. Then we went by Populonia , P. Bar at a, S. Vincenti , Caftagneto , and Vada (about four miles into the fea from Vada , they fay ruins are feen fometimes of an old city). At night we lodged on the fhore under Cafligltone , a tower in the duke of Florence’s ftate. This day we pafs’d in fight of Elba. Every night except at Afiura and Sperlonga , we lay under our tent. The prince of Piombino coins money, and has a fhare in the ifland of Elba. The duke of tfufcany hath only Porto Ferraio , and the king of Spain Porto Lon- gone. July 8. Early in the morning we rowed in a tumbling fea, and doubled the cape of M. Nero , where our boatmen faluted the V. Mary in their fuperftitious way. Then <522 A Journey thro Skifpon. Then pafs’d in fight of li Greet , a large building where troopers quarter, and then LIGORN. we enter’d the mole of Ligorn , deliver¬ ing our bills of health on the fide of the mole. Then a foldier out of one of the forts, called to us, and asked whence we came, &c. All along this fhore of Italy ,we obferv- ed the fifhing-boats always under fail, with their net-lines fafined to them. We traveil’d by felucca 1233 Italian miles, 'viz. From Genoa to Lerici , 65 The journey to Malta , 460 From Mefflna to Salerno , 34 2 From Naples to Ligorn , 366 1233 July 12. We took our places in the boat or Navicelle , and in five hours went from Ligorn to Pifa , where a fearcher enquir’d into our portmanteaus. At night we gave our names to the inn-keeper. July 13. In the afternoon, paying two pieces of eight, and one fourth of a piece, for our two places, we took coach for Florence. At the gates of Pifa the fearch- ers Hop’d us a little : molt part of the way we travell’d this day was a plain road. We rode 10 miles from Pifa thro’ Cafcina , a fmall walled place, then went in fight of Santa Cruce on the left fide of the river Arnus and M. Opolt on the right, and hereabouts pafs’d clofe by a monaftery of the Soccolanti , which is a rich place, and pleafantly feated; the w'oods we travelled through belonging to them. Ten miles from Cafcina we flay’d at an inn called Scala j and about mid¬ night took coach again, and crofs’d the Arnus twice. At break of day, July 14, we made a long afeent thro’ M. Lupo , a walled place, and for three or four miles travelled among hills j after that we had eight miles in a plain country, and ar- FLQ _ rived at eight in the morning at Florence, RENCE. where the fearchers Hop’d us; then we went to the Dogaua , and io to our lodg¬ ing- , . While we Hay’d here, thefe following particulars were obferved by us. At Porta Romana are thefe two in- feriptions. Leo X. primus in Flor. gente ex nobilif- fima Medicar. familia Pont. Max. Bo- noniam Proficifcens Flor. patriam fuam primum in eo konore intravit , diruta hujus muri parte magnificent iffimoq-, rcr. omnium apparatu et Ixtiffimo totius ci- Part of the [Italy. e vitatis plaufu exceptus die xxx No- vembris mdxv. Pont, fui anno III. Carolus V. Cxfar Aug. cum infigni omni¬ um Chriftianorum beneficio immanent Archipiratam regno T'.metan0 pepulif- fet fugajfetq ; Stculo Neapolitanoq j fuis regnis conftitutis Roma profettus Flo - rentiam hac porta cum magna pompa in- greffus,populo cundio prxlxtitia geftien - te ab Alexandra Medtce Civitates Duce , cut Margaritam filiam defponderat il - lu/iri apparatu regaliq-, hofpitio Medi- ceas in cedes acceptus eft Anno mdxxxvi. id. Maii Titulum P. Cofmus Medices Magnus Dux Hetrurice Anno mdlxix. July 15. Being the feafi of S. James , we law the grand duke and his fon in a coach, attended by Switzers , whofe cap¬ tain was on horfeback ■, and in the river Arnus we law three little boats with two men in each, make a race upon the water. At the palace of Valore , we obferv’d in the front feveral figures of mens heads, and under fome thefe inferiptions. Ac cur fins Legum gloff. Florentinus, floruit an. cioccxl. *T. Monacus Galeni plufquam inter pres Flor. floruit Anno cioccxc. M. Ficinus Sopbice Pater Florent. flor. An. CIOCCCCLXX. D. Accaiolus Philofoph. Moralis. Floren -. tinus, floruit An. ciocccclxx. P. Vidtorius Philofoph. Civ ills Florentinus, floruit An. ciodlxx. B. Zenobius puerum fibi a Matre Gallica Romam cunte creditum atq; interea mor- tuum dum fibi urbem luftranti eadem reverfa hoc loco conquerens occurit figno Cruets ad vitam revocat. An. Sal. cccc. Poggio Imperiale is a little palace of the grand dukes about a mile from Porta Romana , a pleafant walk of cyprefs trees, leading up a confiant and eafy afeent to the houfe. The court-yard is made into the figure of a theater, having a low wall whereon are Hatties. Within fome of the rooms of the pa¬ lace, we faw feveral excellent pi&urcs drawn by the moH eminent maflers, Ti¬ tian ,, Rubens , &c. St. Matthew done by Alb. Durer , deferves the rich filver frame about it, a copy of the Adam and Eve, which we law the original of at Nuren - 3 Italy. \ Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. ■S'. Maria dclle Fiore. burg. Pi&ures of the duke’s relations, and of molt of the princes in chriftendom. The (lory of S. Francis neatly painted on a looking-gta.Is. Many heads and fruits drawn by a woman, viz. Giovanna Gar- Zone , now at Rome. A picture (being inlaid work) reprefenting antick mask- in gs. The figure of a ihake twifting her- ielf together, reprefented very natural in marble. A fmall chapel here, the walls whereof within richly made with marble mofaick work delcribing pots of flowers, and the floor of the chapel was of the fame work. A fountain in the yard, where is a ftatue in a cumbent pofture, made by Mich. Angelo, and highly efteem’d. S. Michael's church is a tall fquare building, having on the outfide many fair ftatues both of brafs and marble. Here we heard good vocal and inftru- mental mufick on St. Ann's day, and there was a trumpeter that founded his notes very fweetly. While we were at Florence thefe Eng- lijhmen we met with, Mr. Henry MaJJing- berd, Mr. Smith and Mr. Comarry two of the king of England's muficians, Mr. Can- mm and Mr. L where at the other end is the Pallio , a large piece of velvet, or cloth of gold, Sc. that they run for j at one race a boy was fet on one of the horfes, and at firft got the ftart, but was foon overtaken by other horfes, and fo loft the race. We Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 635 We faw a fcaflfold one day eredled un¬ der the grand duke’s palace 4 where fe- veral fellows fought two and two toge¬ ther at fifty cuffs, who were parted by the duke’s command, and rewarded with money. A race run by affes, and by carts and waggons, the great duke ufually prefent. A pole fet up that was greas’d, and the boy that could climb up to the top was to have a couple of hens, that hung by on a rope. July 23. Was a feftival for the taking of Sienna ; a cavalcade of Ca-vallieri , ra¬ ces, and a few fireworks on the cupola of the domo, Campanile , and near the palace of the duke at night; the people leeming to rejoice little on this occafion. Between the goldfmith’s bridge and S. Felicitd , is the ftatue of two wreftling to¬ gether. This S. Lorenzo is a neat church, fo con- churchwas triv’d within, by reafon of neat flender c f n Phili^- P^ ars > t ^ ac y° u en j°y a fight of the pus Bru- whole church at once. On the wall is nellefco. painted the ftory of S Laurence's mar¬ tyrdom, which Kaph. Borghini finds fault with, for making the emperor’s courtiers (prefent) too naked, and for placing the virtues amongft the croud. Here are two brafs monuments well carv’d with the ftory of our Saviour, and each fup- ported by four marble pillars. At one corner of the church is a little fquare chapel contriv’d by Mich. Angelo , who made here three monuments for three great dukes j the figures of men and wo¬ men in leaning poftures are very lively, but made too naked and immodeft, and lome figures are not finifhed ; two fta- tues of dukes of f fufcany are excellently well done, being in a majeftick fitting pofture. Many of the duke’s family are buried here in marble and wooden cof¬ fins, as feveral infcriptions do exprefs. 1. Cofmus II. Magnus Dux Etrurice. 2. Ferdinandus Magnus Dux Etrurice III. 3. Maria Magdalena Auftriaca Ferdi - nandi II. imperatoris foror , Ferdi- nandi II Magni Ducis Mater. On the coffin is an imperial crown. 4. Maria Chriftiana Virgo primogenita obiit vi. D. Augujli mdcxxxii. 5. Madama Chriftina Magna Etrurice Dux oh. MDCXXXV. 6. Princeps Cofmus Ferdinandi II. et Vittorix Magg. Ducum Etruriaprime- genitus , hie populos quos regere de- Skippon* buit 9 nunc precihus apud Deuin pro - tellur us , natus xiii. Kal Jam. A. M DC xxxix. mix it II. xxxx. *7. Princeps Ferdinandi II et Vidlorix magg. DD. Etruria fiha fecundo ge~ nita , fuit quafi non efiet de Utero tranfiata ad Coslum prid. Kalend. Junii A. S. mdcxxxxi. qv.ee tarn- diu mixit , ut externum mi-vat , dm mix it. 8. Serenif. Prin. Card. Joan. Carolus ah Etruria pro Catholico Kege Jum- mus mans prxfedtus mdclxii. A cardinal’s cap on the coffin. And about a galley, within an elcutcheon, was written, Arandum Vaftum prius oequor. In a ftreet near S. Spirito is the ftatue of Hercules killing the Centaur , carv’d admirably to the life out of one ftone. S. Croce is a church belonging to the Francifcans, which hath a pretty fquare piazza before it, and a fair afeent to it • the pillars that fupport the church are contrived as in the domo. At the firft entrance is a curious marble monument eredted to Mich. Angelos memory ; his effigies is on the top, and under thetomb- ftone are three ftatues of women (being excellent pieces) with engraver’s tools, &c. in their hands. They fay the tomb was made by Mich. Angelo himfelf. 1 his inlcription here. Michaeli Angelo Bonarotio e me tuft a Simoniadum famiha Sculptori Pidiori et Architefto , fiama omnibus no - tijjimo. Leonardus Patruo Amantiffmo et de fe optime merito tranfiatis Korn a ejus ojfibus atq - 3 in hoc c templi Major. Juor. Sepulchro conditis Cohortante Se- reniffi. Cofmo Med. Magno Hetruricc Du- cc. P. C. Ann. Sal. cioidlxx. mixit ann. lxxxviii. m.xi. d.xv. Juft by is a little monument in memory of Francifcus Bonarotius Lenordt F. a knight of Malta , and lecretary to Ant. de Paula M. Mag. who died at Malta 163 . . The three ftatues at Mich. Angelos tomb are mentioned and explain’d by Borghini. 1. Made by Job. dell'Opera, for Architettura. 2. Or that in the middle, by Valerius Ciolt for Sculptura. 3. By Bap. del Camahere, for Pitt ura. The pulpit here is of marble curioufiy carv’d with the ftorv of S. Francis. Under Aretins effigies, Poft« SxirroN. Cafcina. A journey thro ’ Part of the [_Iidy. Poftquam Leonardus e Vita migr ana it Hiftoria luget, ehquentia muta eft Ferturq- y mufas turn Graecas turn Latinas Lacbrymas tenere nor, potuijfe. Under a fair marble effigies of Carolus a poet. Sfte, naidcs magnum quae fervant marmo- ra naatem Ingen io cujus non fat is orb is erat £htco mtura , polus, quae mos ferat omnia no-vit Karolus oetatis gloria magna fuae Aufoniae gratiae crines nunc folvite Mufx Occidit heu 'veftri fama decufq-, cbori. Laurentius Salnaiatus Marchio Juliani , is written on a trunk in a lhtle chapel- Aug. 4. Was a feftival for the great prince’s birth-day ; in the evening were maiquerades on horfeback, a tour of coaches, and a triumphant chariot with muficians playing in it. Aug. 6. Being the feaft of S. P^occo, whole interceffion, they believe, freed the city once from the plague there was much devotion in his fmall chapel, and at night wine was didributed among the people. We walked to the pleafant woods of Cafcma , where are little confervatories of ice and (now in illands moated about ; here is one walk about a mile long, and another of tall pines two miles long. Ma¬ ny green lawns within the wood, which is not above one fourth of a mile broad ; hares, pheafants, ficedulas (bec- cafici) &c. are frequent here, none un¬ der penalty of the gallies, being fuffered to (hoot or kill any without licenfe. About the middle of the long walk of pines is the milk houfe called Cafcina. Coming back to the city, we crofs’d over a little cut for water, which was de- fign’d to be made navigable to Pifa , but the charge of fluices was too great. This wood did belong to the prince cardinal now dead, and now prince Matthias is heir to it. On the other fide the Arnus is another narrow wood. We obferved the manner of taking beccafici; a large net is hung upon long poles fet a pretty diftance alunder, and two or three fellows beat the bufhes, and fright out the birds, which lighting on the net (that is juft by) are catch’d and knock’d off with flicks. Thefe birds are about Auguft in great requeft. The citadel is a well fortified place, where there are arms ready for 40000 men. The grand duke’s gallery is a (lately building, confiding of three fidesi, and is of a parallellogram figure ; it is between the old palace and the river Arnus ; un¬ derneath are the duke’s (tables, and over mod part of it a neat cloifter or portico, where are many rooms for officers be¬ longing to the gabels, fiV. In the fecond dory are fair rooms where the bed ar- tifls live, who work for the great duke ; and in the third and higheft dory, is that which is properly the gallery, and goes the three fides of the building ; it is of a handlome breadth j the floor is pav’d with brick, but the roof painted with the famous men of Florence , noted for learn¬ ing or arts. On each fide are placed on pedeftals, many ancient and modern heads and ftatues in marble, and lomein brafs. There are feveral large piblures of princes, and in fmall frames, Come pic¬ tures of famous men in the world $ thole we took notice of were Jo. Acutus Anglus, king James , 0 . Cromwell ; and among the ftatues we obferv’d thefe, an old done relievo work, being a man leading a horfe, a curious brals head of Mich. Angelo , and this underwritten. Sat magnum tua fola loco decus addit imago. A Cupid in black marble lying on his back. A Roman orator in brafs, Paris in marble, fitting and holding an apple in his left hand. A marble ftatue on a pedeftal rarely wrought with baflo relievo work in brafs, on which is this verfe. Ut potui hue 'veni Delphis et Fratre re - lidlo. Many other ancient Greek and Roman heads. On an old done is inferib’d. a GARGENNIVS L. F. SCA CELER FLORENTIA MIL COH XI PR VIX. A. XXIV. MIL. A- VI. H. S. E. On a hollow done (probably a fe- pulchre) is old relievo work, and this written. A ALEDIAE Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 637 SkiPhon. ALliDIAE MARCIAE FILIAE DULCISSIMAE .III. DIES. XIII. ALEDIVS TROFIMICENVS ET AELIA MARINA PARENTES BENEMERENT, FECERVNT. Two old fqua.re pillars wrought with armour, Sc. There are feveral clofetsin the gallery, and we faw four or five of them, which had many rarities in them9 fome we took notice of, •viz. the picture of Cupid whifpering in the ear of a naked Venus , drawn by '■Titian , and was now copying by Mr. Comar. The skin of a cervus rangiferus , whole body was as tall as moft men, and his horns very broad and branched. The skin of a morfus or fea- horfe, which was bare, his body very big and long, his legs fhort and feet divided into four claws9 a fhortifh tail, a vaft head, fmall ears, broad nofe • in the upper jaw, two fhort but great teeth (landing outwards, and two leffer within 9 two rows of teeth ran along the middle of this jaw and the lower, in which are alfb two long furrow’d teeth (landing out¬ wards, and two a little fhorter in the middle of them. The walls of one clofet well painted with the great duke’s terri¬ tory and the adjacent countries 9 a vaft terreftial globe9 a fpherc of wood 9 a cabinet adorn’d with brafs heads j two or three porphyry heads of dukes of Flo¬ rence 9 a table of mofaic (lone-work, repre- fenting a landskip 9 another mofaic table of wood with flowers, and one of ala- bafter 9 apidlure of a man, and looking under it, reprefents a woman 9 a mofaic (lone table, reprefenting Ligorne , where lapis lazuli is laid for the lea9 a large ebony cabinet adorn’d with curious little pictures9 within it is a (quare that is turn’d upoil an axis 9 the firft fide hath our Saviour’s paflion curioufly made in ivory, by Mich. Angelo • the fecor.d fide, the 12 apoftles in amber 9 the third fide, a crucifix, Sc. like the firft fide, of white amber 9 the fourth fide,.a long table of oriental alabafter9 Adam and Eve’s pidlure, (aid to be Alb. Durers original 9 an offogonal table, moft richly inlaid with pearls, rubies, and other precious (tones, which reprefeni flowers very exadlly: this table is valued at 10,000 crowns. A large cabinet fet with precious (tones, among which a vaft ruby, and a great but rough pearl: this cabinet is worth 50,000 crowns. Many antient idols and lamps in brafs 9 a little figure made of a turcois-ftone bigger than a hen’s egg ; a cup made of an horn, they pretend an unicorn’s 9 the iron nail, half whereof was gold, turn’d into that metal by Turnitius Bafilieufis , but it feem’d to us a cheat, and was foldred to the iron 9 a tenuifolius plant neatly figur’d in filver 9 over one clofet was a cupola fet with mother of pearl 9 another inlaid table with flowers and infe&s made of precious ftones 9 a branched amber candleftick 9 feveral old idols 9 a crucifix of coral 9 a unicorn’s horn fo call’d 9 a prefs full of ivory work curioufly turn’d 9 the figure of S. George on horfeback neatly done 9 the piblure of a cardinal well done in mofaic work 9 a little Roman (lone with this infcription 9 APPIVS CLAVDIVS C. F. CAECVS CENSOR COS. BIS DICT. INTERREX m. PR. 7 T. AED. CVR. IT. a TR. MIL. 1111. COMPLVRA OPPIDA DE SAMNITIBVS CEPIT^ SABENORVM ET TVSCORVM EXERCITVM FVDIT PACEM FIERI CVM PYRRHO REGE PROHIBV 1 T IN CENSVRA VIAM APP 1 AM STRAVIT ET AQVAM IN VRBEM ADDVXIT AEDEM BELLONAE FECIT. In an entry hung a large landskip, drawn only by a pen. In a little room we faw the altar that is making for the chapel of S. Lorenzo. The front and fides of the altar-table is rare mofaic work: in the middle is the ftory of Mofes 9 and on each fide are flowers and birds, that feem, by reafon of the excellent fhadows, to be baffo relievo. Red grapes are reprefented by amethyfls. The pede- (lal is made of feveral rare ftones. Under Vol. VI. the tabernacle is the lad fupper and twelve apoftles, all of inlaid work. Three fur¬ row’d pillars of cryftal, each bigger than a man’s arm, on each fide of the nich where the pyxis is to (land. In the up¬ per rooms of the old palace is the ward¬ robe 9 a rich treafury, where are 1 3 large preflfes full of plate, among which wc obferv’d filver wrought bed-pods 9 the furniture of horfes fet with precious ftones 9 a preft full of good plate 9 a 7 Z Turkijh ) A journey thro ’ I 1 art of the Skippon. tfurkijh fcimitar fet with rubies ; a cruci- fix with diamonds ; an altar of mafTy gold, with this inlcription, the letters whereof are rubies. Cofmus IT. Dei gratia Magnus, Dux Etruria ex Voto. This was vow’d to S. Carlo of Millan. The duke’s picture is kneeling to an altar made in baflb relievo of precious (tones, and adorn’d with jewels. Great topazes on this altar, which is valued at 100,000 crowns. The outfides of thefe preffes are painted with maps of moft countries in the world. A great number of pictures in this room, among which the king of England's. The pidture of a woman well made in turkey-work. In a piece of tapeftry are three or four figures of full proportion, done moft lively. In one room, the profpedts of the piazza vecchia - 3 the duke’s palace and annun- ciata are drawn in frefco. In the portico, at the end of the gallery, is the ftatue of Judith with Holofernes his head in her hand, all of brafs. The ftory of Per feus in marble j and a Roman carrying a Sabine away by force, with an old man, in one piece of marble, rarely made by J. Bologna. Tht armo- The armory is in the gallery, where r y ■ thefe particulars were (hewn us : Perfan arms for horfe and man ; a loadftone that will draw up 65 lb. a neat figure of a horfe made in bra(s, by J. Bologna - 3 the head-piece faid to be Hannibal's , made of Corinthian brafs, and wrought with Arabick letters ; the fword of Carolus M. the fword of Carol. V. and his fcepter of oriental agat ; five large fwords that have had the pope’s benedidtion ; the imperial cap of a pope; the habit of Janizzo , a captain in the Turks armata ; a great horn, ufed by the antients before the invention of trumpets , a long horn, with a hole in the middle, where the Turks make a hal¬ lowing noife when the people are call’d to their mofchi ; two iron hats, within the crowns having each four piftols ; a Perfian faddle ; Indian weapons; Indian oars i an iron frujla of the antients, made thus; the hair of a horfe’s tail (even braccia long. The king of China's armour made of fifh-bones, and his wooden fword 3 Per¬ fian armour, made into great fcales; Italian locks for women 3 a prefs full of guns inlaid curioufly with ivory 3 a ftandard of the king of Sweden ; D. Bernard duke of Saxony's ftandard, whereon was written, {Sine Numine fru - fira j Japonefe fwords, that were (hap’d thus; Scanderbegs fword, given to <, the duke of Urbtn by the republic of Venice when he was their gene- j ral j the armour of Charles V. the face of his helmet (hap’d like a dog’s fnout; Hannibal's armour j Henry IV. of France his armour ; the armour of Lorenzo Medici. Rich prizes taken from the fiirks 3 the queen of funis her faddle, taken by the great duke’s galleys , another faddle, (cimitars, knives, and horfe-harnefs let with precious ftor.es ; the helmet of Moro frais a renegado Genoefe ; two old Baliflx ; two guns, whereof the barrels and the greateft part of the locks were of gold, given to a duke of Florence by an emperor of Germany 3 a buffalo’s hide cut into a thong 200 braccia long 3 nine piftols fet together thus - 3 At A is the lock that ftrikes fire on gun¬ powder, that firft fires a long pan b c, which makes nine (hots together; after that, at d e the work is fo contriv’d, that that long pan fires nine times more. [Qu. farther?] A large iron bow 3 a fuic of armour, fword and furniture for a horfe curioufly wrought in fteel, which the great duke intends for a prefent to the king of funis - 3 another (mall brals figure of a horfe, with one of the great dukes on his back : one of the fame big- ne(s, in maflfy gold, was (ent by the great duke to the king of Spain : Medufa's head painted on a (hield, by Mich. Angelo. In one room is the skin of a young elephant, which was alive about fix years lince ; it coft the duke 100 piftoles: the body of it was bulky, the legs thick and ftiort, no joints fcarce appearing j five imgulce on each foot, and the leaft toe is innermoft , the toes of the fore-feet are (harper than thofe behind ; the eyes are (mall, pro ratione corporis 3 large and broad flapping ears; the probofcis begins from the nofe, and leflens by degrees, reaching to the ground, with which they (ay it could draw a fword. The skeleton Theskele- we took notice of j the head of huge big- ton nefs , the lower maxilla ends in a (harp el: i hant - angle, the upper hath two rows of waved grinding teeth, (each about two inches broad, anfwering to thofe in the lower jaw) Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 639 jaw) which make an acute angle in the Under the ftatue of Judith in the Skippon - middle of the palate ; thus : a b is the piazza is written, palate, the upper grinders compos’d fo dole of waved teeth, that they feem two lolid bones c c ; the palfage into the mouth will L hardly admit more than a man’s fill: at the upper end of the palate is a great palfage to the noftrils the nafus is broad, and hangs over the end of the lower maxilla ; at each corner of the nofe grew a tooth about four inches long; but in males they will be great and long. Here the probofcis begins the forehead bone has a lharp procejfus over the cavity of the nares ; the occiput is divided into two high eminent ice ; a very deep and large finus for the mufculus tem¬ poralis to run in ; the head Hands almoft perpendicular, with the nofe downward •, fix vertebrae colli , the 2d and 3d join’d together; one vertebra claviculx ; 22 vertebrae dorfi, the 18th and 19th join’d together in the procejfus ’ ' * three ver¬ tebrae ojjis facri • 15 vertebrae caudce , 19 ribs on a fide: the fore-legs anfwer to the arms of a man ; the knee feems to bend ~ forward ; a large procejfus Hicks out (which hath a finus to receive and fup- port the brachiuni) hinders it from bend¬ ing far backwards, lb that ’tis impoflible N B The an ekphant fhould kneel: the metacarpus fore-legs bones are five, which anfwer to digits, were not but are only five ungulae ■> the bones of fet right. t h e car p us are eight; the radius thwarts the cubitus on the forefide, and is articu¬ lated with the exterior procefs of the bra- cbium , and interior procels of the carpus ; the fcapulce are much like thole in other animals: the firfl pair of ribs are join’d per harmonium, they are broad before, and lerve infiead of claviculce ; no fibula in the legs, only femur and tibia a large patella , having a finus excavated for it in the joint of the knee, which bends for¬ ward, and is made for kneeling: to the talus is articulated the calcaneum , like a man’s heel, and before to a long bone, to which are join’d thefe three, viz. 1. The innermoft digitus. 2. The 2d digi¬ tus. 3. The 3d digitus. To the 4th bone of the tarfus the 4th and 5th toe is join’d: the cavity of the cerebellum leem’d like that of a man’s. Againfl S. Felicita is a pillar whereon the Hatue of P. Martyr , with a hatchet flick¬ ing on the top of his head, he being be¬ headed in this place. Exemplum Sal. publicce Gives pofuers MCCCXCV. Under the Hatue of Jupiter, Ite Fili fi quis lacferit Ultor ero. Under Caffiopxia and Perfeus , (a little boy in her hand) I’uta Jove ac tan to p ignore Iceta fugor. Under Diana j c Quo Vincas Clypeum do tibi Cafia Soror. Nigh S. ifrinita is a pillar with juflice on the top, which was eretfled at the taking of Siena ; and on the pedeflal is inferib’d, Co fin. Med. Magn. Dux Etrurice. mdlxx- We faw the great duke’s rich coach, a rich which they fay cofl at leafl 60,000 feudi j coach ' the coach-box, and behind, and wheels plated with filver and richly gilt; a thick embroidery of gold mix’d with fome filver was the curtains, lining within, feats, coachman’s culhion, and the fur¬ niture for fix horfes : in the roof of the coach are the duke’s arms fet within a flourifh of malfy gold ; the field was lapis lazuli , and the pellets rubies j 12 bars of Heel neatly wrought (which cofl each 350 feudi, as we were told) faflen the coach, axle-tree, &c. together : on each corner of the coach Hood a curious flourifh, each having four figures of maflfy filver, and gilt. Nigh S. Mark’s church is the vivarium. The Viva- wherc many wild beafls are kept in feve- rium * ral fquare courts wall’d about; and on the walls are galleries, whence the duke and others are fpe&ators when fome of the beafls are brought to fight together. We faw three lions, a tiger and a leopard, which differ but little in colour and big- nefs; two bears ; a grifly wild boar with black fhort ears, a long fnout, black feet and tail. S. Mark’s church belongs to the Domi- s/.M ar k.'i nicans ; it is a little place, where Picus church. Mirandula and Politianus are bury’d. A little chapel here, handfomely crufled with marble, at the charges of the Salviati, a noble family. Another chapel, where a faint of late date, viz. S. Anthony, once archbifhop of Florence his body is enfhrin d. His Hory is deferib’d in brafs relievo work, by John Bologna. The firfl miracle 640 A journey thro '■■-•"ox. miracle he did, was the fetting of a broken pipkin together, and making it whole. Good pictures, and marble {tatues (among which Edward the Con- fejfor) in this chapel. The ck*- We faw the famous chapel at S. Loren- pel ats. zo ^ w hich is an oflogonal cupola of a Lorenzo. g OOC j height, where the great dukes are to be bury’d: part of the infide is finifh’d, the wall being crufted over with jafper, porphyry, &c. which are made into large offogons, and look very rich and magni¬ ficent. A green and yellow jafper from < Sicily make the pedellals of the pilaflers. A green jafper from Corfica , and a red jafper from Cyprus made ufe of here. Towards the bottom of the walls, in mofaic work, are the arms of all the cities under the duke, viz- 1. Montepulciano. 2. Borgo S. Sepol- chro. 3. Cortona. 4. Volterra. 5. Arezzo. 6. Piftoia. 7. Pi fa. 8. Florence. 9. Fie- fola. 10. Siena. 11. Grajfetto. 12. Maffa. 13. Monte Alee. 14. Suana. 15. Ciufiurn. 16. Pientia. On every fide is defign’d a monument for a great duke, and their flatues are to be plac’d over their tombs. Thefe inferip- tions are already here j •viz. 1. Cofrnus magn. Dux Etr. T. vix. amt. lv. oh. xi. Kal. Mail cioiolxxiiiv. 2. Francifeus mag. Dux. Etr. II. vix. ann. xlvi. ob. xix. Ottob. cioiolxxxvii. 3. Ferdinandus magn. Dux. Etr. in. vix. ann. lx. oh. vii. id. Fehr. cididcix. 4. Cofrnus magn. Dux Etr. iv. vix. ann. xxx. oh. xxvni. Fehr. cidiocxx. On the canons houfes of.are two or three Roman tomb-flones, with baflo relievo figures. 7he ftatu' In the piazza veccbia is a {lately figure of Cof- 0 f duke Cofrnus I. on horfeback in brafs, U ' ,as L with this infeription on one fide of the pedeflal. Cofmo Medici magno Etruria: Duci primo , felici , inviffo, juflo , dementi , facrx militix pacifq-, in Etruria Au- thorij Patri & Principi Optimo Ferdi¬ nandus F. Mag. Dux in. erexit ann. cioiolxxxxi in. On another fide of the pedeflal is rarely carved in brafs the manner of his coro¬ nation by the pope, and over it written, Oh Zelum Rcl. prxcipuumque jufiitix Jiudium. At one end is deferib’d the Florentines owning him for their prince -> and over that written, Part 0) the {Paly. Plenis liberis fen. Fl.fuffragiis Dux patriot renunciatur. On another fide, he is riding in a triumphant chariot into Siena , and fome of the Sicnefe humbly fubmitting them- felves i and this written, Profligatis hofiih. in Deditionern acceptis Senenfihus. The duke’s palace is a noble building, The great three flories high, with a flately front, and is fituated on a rifing ground ; within * rdens . is a large court, the three fides built and cloifler’d ; the out-fide is after a rough manner ; the pillars of the portici and the windows are handfomely contriv’d : a little pond (in the court) within a grotto, rail’d about with iron, and adorn’d with flatues ; one of them a Mofes , much efleem’d ; Here is flore of filh, which have a fupply of frefh water from a plen¬ tiful flream that rifes in the middle, a great height, almofl to the top of the grotto, which is above four mens length. We then faw a large green fpot of ground built about with feats of flone, like a theatre. Thence we went up to a fair pond, rail’d about, and fet round with figures. Above this is the fortezza , which is a pentagon citadel well guarded j it has a great command of the city : and here they fay the duke lays up money every year. Hereabouts is erected a great flatue of Cornucopia in marble, with this infeription ; Pario e marmore Signum Copia hie pofiia fum. A. D. mdcxxxvi. memoria ceter- num ut •vigeat quod omnis fere Europa dum funefiffimo arderet hello , & Italia caritate annonx lahoraret Etruria fuh Ferdinando II. Numinis henenoolentia , Pace renrnq j optima atq • uhertate frue- hatur. Viator ahi , optimum principis fofpitem expoflula. Fitfcx felicitatem gratulare. Nigh this is a fubterraneous pond, furnifh’d with water dropping from the top of a cave. We walk’d thence to a long walk, with a plealant arbour on one fide made of lemon-trees : at the upper end is the reprefentation of Adam and Eve, and the ferpent with the face of a handfome woman ; ail cut out of one piece of marble very curioufly. Another walk between a row of bay and ilex trees ; at the end of w'hich are an- tick flatues. We defeended a broad and long green walk, having a Jong arbour on each fide, and is adorn’d with flatues; an oval garden moated about, where there Italy. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. there are giocbi d'acqua , i. e. water-fports, and in the midft a till fountain with forne figures, and a vaft ciftern cut out of one (tone ^ a pleafant walk of cyprefs-trees; a pretty fountain of a marble figure, pouring water into a large tub made of white mu'bie, and a boy that thrufts againft it, is of the lame piece of marble: many gardens for herbs and flowers. This garden is about i ~ mile in compafs, and is uneven, being up-hill and down-hill- A loldier of the guard went along with us, whom we rewarded with a teftone. Nigh the court of guards lies a rude loadftone as big as two horfes can well draw. chr\(lm n z At the Baptijlerium nigh the Domo , on e/Turk s - z 8 Aug. were 18 Turks chriften’d ; and forne of the ceremonies we obferv’d ; •viz. a long fcaffold was built from the chief door to the altar ; in the middle, two or three priefts flood about a large filver font, and the 'Turks being ask’d. Whether they would be baptiz’d ? and anfwering, Yes ; a prieft then took a filver cup with water, and poured it on the middle of the Turk's head ; another prieft all the time reading the form of baptifm : after that, the baptiz’d perfon had a crucifix and a candle deliver’d to him, and then was feated under the altar. Oil was fprinkled into the mens codpieces. The \vamzx\-Ttrks after bap¬ tifm had a white veil put over their heads, and on that a fine wrought coro¬ net ; and both men and women were habited in white. When they had fate forne time, the mufick play’d j a banner then went firft $ after that, an old bap¬ tiz’d Turk , and young fellow; boys next, and girls and women, every one having a godmother on each hand. When they came to the middle of the fcaffold, every baptiz’d Turk kneeled down to a crucifix, and crofs’d themfelves, Sc. and at laft all went in proceflion to the Annunciata j fpittle, oil, Sc. were ufed in the bap¬ tifm. Augufi 29. was a great holiday for the birth of the virgin Mary. a legend. The family of count de Mcnteacuto had, as they fay, by S. Fra. of AJJignius , this favour procur’d, that before any of that family dies, a lighted torch fhould appear on the top of his houfe. Cujloms. At Florence and Siena, every wife goes abroad in the company of her hus¬ band, mother or aunt. All widows are known by their black habit, with wide fleeves- None dare flioot pigeons in the duke’s ftate, under penalty of the galleys. The nobility have every one forne profeflion, either merchandizing, felling Vol. VI. of filk, Sc. They are only defpifers of s the phyficians ; yet every family hath its phyfician and lawyer, with whom thev are agreed at an annual rate. The or¬ dinary fee far a lawyer is about half a crown, but fome EngliJJj merchants have brought in the bad cuftom of giving more, as a piftole at a time, Sc. Every nobleman and gentleman fells wine out by the flask; which is fignify’d by hang¬ ing over the door a wicker-bottle or flask ; and there is a little port-hole in the gate or wall, where they take in and give out bottles. No perfon of quality will drink in a tavern or inn ; and in¬ deed they have little invitation, thole houfes being worfe than our ale-houfes. The fhopkeepers and the vulgar lore are a little churlifh to ftrangers, but thole of better fafhion are more courte¬ ous. There is a laying, Fiorentini Ciechi , Pifani traditori , Sanefi pazzi , Lucchefi fignori. The gentlemens daughters are boarded in nunneries for about 10/. per annum fterling ; and there they are taught to work, fing, Sc. till they marry. French modes are follow’d here ; and it is the cuftom (ufed in few pl^res befides in Italy ) to falute the ladies by pulling off hats when the men pals by them. A ftranger may hire a coach for $s. per day ; and any of the Florentine gentry will lend their coaches. They ufe generally flask-bottles for their wine; of which thechief are •verdea ) a whitifh fweet wine, and red wine like claret: they flop thole bottles only with a little ftraw, and put a little oil in the neck of the glafs. They cool their wine by putting ice or fnow about the bottle, or elfe put the bottle in a balon of well- water, which is cool in this city. Here, at Naples and Sicily , Sc. they pour water into the glafs while they are drinking. Pane di Bocca they call their beft bread, which is white and well made, without yeft. The common fort of people will re- frefh themfelves in hot weather, by eat¬ ing two or three pieces of a green pom- pion, kept cool in wells ; they call it Cu- cumere ; the meat is red within, and the feeds black ; the tafte is very waterifh and unpleafing to thofe that are not ufed to it. The ladies will eat of it, and drink ufually after it Vino Greco. They have alfo a melon with a white pulp ; and the beft melon they call Me- lone di Mele , having a very red pulp and rough coat. It taftes pleafantly. 8 A ’The 2 f A journey thro ’ Part of the on. The air of this city is counted good “ x- ' in the fummer, and bad in the winter, by reafon of the benumbing cold, which caufes apoplexies, £fV. In two or three places, fome make and fell beer. Gelding of hens frequently ufed about Florence. All the houfes are tiled with rows of tiles, a thus, Upon the {pars are laid tiles, a b long¬ ways, clofe together, and thwart them c d , and over the commiffures of them, is hid a gutter-tile at i /, with the con¬ vex fide up. Every night all ftrangers names are carried by the inn-keepers, &c. to the Piazza Vecchia. None are fuffered to walk after the bell rings at three hours of the night, with fword, dagger, or knife. A guard every night watches the gold- fmith’s bridge, another the filk (hops, which are together ; and sbirri walk up and down the city. The filk trade is much decay’d here ; the greateft quantity they fend to Lon¬ don. Boys and young fellows play at bowls in the middle of the ftreets. In the city- ditch gentlemen play with wooden battle¬ dores and a wooden ball, which they ferve with their hands on a pent-houfe. There have been thefe dukes of Flo¬ rence^ i. Alexander Florentine Dux I. t Florentine Dux II. 2 Cofmus I. ) Flor. et Senarum. D. I Etrurine Magnus D. I. 3. Francifcus Etrurine Mag. Dux II. 4. Ferdinandus I. Magnus Dux III. 5. Cofmus II. Magnus Dux IV. 6 . Ferdinandus II. Mag. Dux V. Since w r e travelled, 7. Cofmus III. Etrurine Mag. D. VI. Ferdinand II. was the fifth duke of tfufcany at our being in Florence ; he hath reigned 44 years, and he married Vitto- ria di Kouera (now living) of the houle of Ur bin j fhe brought the duke a large revenue, and hath thefe children. 1. Cof¬ mus , the great prince. 2. Another born four or five years fince. The prince mar¬ ried Margarita , lecond daughter of the duke of Orleans. She is now in great aifcontent, and difpleafed with her huf- band and the court of Florence , bccaufe her French fervants were fent away for their great infolencies. She never ap¬ pears in publick without her mask on, and has fcarce feen her husband this half year, who is alfo difpleafed at her nurfe lying with her. When the duke of Cre- qui (the French ambaffador lately at P\.ome ) was here, fhe defir’d a divorce, and repayment of her portion, which w'as 40,000 piftoles. Job. Medicis the cardinal, is the great duke’s uncle, who hath a fair palace nigh S. Mark’s ; the duke hath two bro¬ thers, Matthias , governor of Siena , and Leopold. There were two more, viz. Johannes , a cardinal, and Francifcus. The prefent great duke is very ftudious* and trades much in merchandife. He hath always two favourites, an old man and a young man. In the fummer time he drinks nothing but fmall beer, and after dinner goes to bed and fleeps till the heat of the day is over, and then the ftreet before his palace is chained up, that no carts nor coaches may difturb him. Every night the keys of the city are brought to him, and he has good in¬ formation of all affairs. Juftice is well executed here againft criminals who are fetched out of churches. The pope and the great duke have agreed, that any offender may be purfued that hath done mifchief in one, and flees into the other’s country. Almoft every fummer evening there is a tour of coaches in the chief ftreets, and on feftivals the great duke, dutchefs, &c. are prefent, the duke always rides in a coach drawn but by four horfes, with a poftilion ; the dutchefs was al¬ ways mask’d, and rides in a coach with fix horfes. The duke allows his refident at Lon¬ don 300 l. Sterl. per annum , and the king of England gives him his w'ine, which, they lay, he makes advantage of, by felling it to the vintners for 100 l. per annum. At this time (the plague being in Eng¬ land') all letters from England were opened and air’d at the Lazaretto over brimftone. The great duke is not well belov’d by his fubjects, who are opprefs’d with a multitude of gabels. • No gentleman can marry his daughter, but pays 8 per Cent of the portion. No cow can enter the gates of Florence but muft pay three crowns to the cuftomers. Eggs, fruit, and all manner of imail commodities pay taxes. A Camera locanda , or lodgings give yearly a confiderable :um. Oranges were formerly here very plen¬ tiful and cheap, but fince a gabel was rais’d on them, and the monopoly bought, Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. bought, the Genoefe (from whom the oranges came) have brought few hither, and therefore they are now very fcarce, and the monopolut like to lofe by his bargain. No perfon without licence can keep a gun or piftol in his houle. The duke’s guard are not Switzers, but Germans from Aufiria and thofe parts ; they are ioo in number, and io ap¬ pointed by Charles V. He hath a horle- guard of Germans , who ride in the city with their fwords drawn. Marquefs Vt- tello is captain of the duke’s guard. Marquefs Salviate was lately fent into England to congratulate the king’s re¬ turn. The duke hath one or two parks which are look’d after by an EngliJIo park keep¬ er. The duke is at a fet rate with his cook to ferve his table, and he allows his fervants board-wages. He is alio agreed with his baker at a yearly rate, who pays him 1000 ducats per annum, for the monopoly of baking. There are three dukes fubjedts. i. The duke of Northumberland , called by the vulgar people Duca di Berlick. z. The duke of Salviati. 3. Duke StroZ- Zi. Marquefs Riccardo is the richeft nobleman. The duke of Northumberland is not very rich ; his daughter is married to a fecond husband the marquefs Paleotti of Bologna ; Ihe was one of the dutchefs of Savoy s ladies, and had her portion given her by that dutchefs. This duke of Northumberland hath a writing wherein one of his anceftors, a knight, was in Henry Vllth’s time, authorifed to un¬ dertake the king’s affairs in Italy. This duke hath one fon a page to the duke of Bavaria, and another in the college at Douay , who is like to be preferred by an uncle, a bifhop in France, to an abbot’s place. One Paolo Bocconi, a botanift, is now employed by the duke in Sicily. The Italian red wines are deeper co¬ loured than the French, becaufe the liquor Hands longer together with the prels’d grape ; Hyofcyamus albus fteep’d in Vino Greco is ufed by the country people, to make them fleep. Pruneole (Fungi Species) much in re- queft, and eaten as a dainty. Dr. Kirton gave us thefe informations. The country people about Florence when they fweat for the French Pox , are put into an oven, keeping their heads out. About Florence the people are troubled with worms in their blood, and other parts; and a kind of cancrous humour Skippon. corrodes their flefh away. MED 1 C I N E S. Dr. Kirton told us, he has one Arca¬ num (which he will leave to his heir) to cure the French pox in a fhort (pace, and perfectly ; he purges them (even or eight days. The chief ingredient is Sena. I11 twenty days the cure is perfected, and he never fails. That Fonfeca the pope’s phyfician late¬ ly cured a nun of a leprofy, by giving only vipers to eat for 15 days. He knew by his own experience at Padua, that hens, Sc. would eat vipers very greedily, and that the fowls will tafte rarely well. Riverius's prefeription of Crocus metalh in a clyfter for the Angina, has been fuc- cefsfully experimented by him. He has alfo given Aqua Benedict a Rulandi. The hemorrhoids are cured by bathing the fundament with heated urine. And a glifter of one’s urine is good for the inner hemorrhoids The fpleen cured by opium in a plai¬ ner at Padua. For the Hydrophobia, Take of box, penyroyal and primrofe (leaf and root) and boil a competent quantity of each in milk, and give to man, dog, Sc. bitten, the fooner the better. Sir Fhcod. Mayern’s DecoSium noftrum Cordiale , was nothing but the decodtion of C. C Two or three fpoonfuls of juice of ca¬ momile, with a few drops of fpirit of vitriol given in a pottinger of broth to one in a fever, is a good medicine, and feldom fails, if given before the cold fit of an ague. Drawing of blifters is good for any ach in the joints. A man’s own urine gargled, cures a fore throat and the tooth-ach. Vipers have firft: their heads and tails cut off, before they are ufed in medi¬ cines. Vomiting is feldom preferib’d by Ita¬ lian phyficians. The root of Bardana major in powder, to the quantity of a dram given in broth, is a certain remedy for a pleurify. Mercurius dulcis, with Jalap Diagridi- wn, Sc. is a good medicine for a cough, {pitting of blood, Sc. Dr. Kirton faw a fellow prefently re¬ covered from a paroxyim of the falling ficknefs, by cutting off lome of his hair, and putting it into his hand. 5 To I A Journey thro' Part of the {Italy. Skitpon. cfo make new wine tafle like old. Take the alhes and fait of vine, and make them up into a pade with the fpi- rit of wine ; tie this up in a cloth, and hang it within the bung-hole of the veffel of new wine, in the fpace left empty for the bag to hang in, which will drop now and then, and in two or three days will precipitate all the foeces, and the wine will drink pleafantly. The city of Florence , reputed the fair¬ ed in Italy , is divided into two parts by the river Arnus , a fhallow dream, over which are four bridges . one is built with goldfmiths fhops ; this and another (which at each corner hath a fair marble datue) are remarkable for their arches, which are made flatter than ordinary arches are. In this river are barbies in great plenty, and almod every houfe near the river hath a great net at the end of a pole. The buildings about the old palace are very mean, but the ftreets about the Annunciada, Santa Frinitd , and the duke’s palace (which formerly belong’d to the family of Pithi') are fairly adorn’d with houfes of the nobility, amongd which that of Strozzi is taken notice of by Sir H. IVotton. Some have the ftones of the outflde rough hewn, which they call Maniera ntftica. Iron rings fix’d in the walls of their palaces, which are to tie mules, £ 3 c. to. The dreets are pav’d (as at Luca') with broad free done, which are made rugged for horfes to go on without flip¬ ping ; the kennels run under the pave¬ ment. When any horfe, ( 3 c. dungs, there are men and boys, with aflfes, that ga¬ ther it up prefently, and carry it away in wooden panniers out of the dreets and the highways. Jews. The Jews have their gheto here, and are much favoured by the great duke ; they have bought the monopoly of making all forts of buttons, which is the chief trade they imploy themfelves in. Here are many hofpitals; but the faired is that of SanIIa Maria Novella^ having a handfome portico in the front, built by the opera , i. e. revenues of the hofpital: (This word opera is frequently written on gravedones in Florence.) 70,000 feudi per ann. is the revenue. Some of the country people are pretty rich, and are worth 1000 pidoles a man, which they get by looking after gentle¬ mens edates and njilla s ; for which they have the vintage, ( 3 c. They bring wood and wine s ( 3 c. for the mod part cn mules and affes. Acqua di Nocera (a city in the pope’s territory) is fold by apothecaries for above a tedone a bottle, and is preferib’d in fevers. The apothecaries here abate much of what they fet down in their bills. A tedone is the ufual fee for bleeding. When Sir John Finch , and Dr. Baines were lad here, they prefented the great duke with Englijis horfes, Irijh dogs, the London polyglotta bible ; and the duke bedowed two cabinets on Sir John Finch , and a gold chain on the do&or. In the middle of the fountain at the Thefoun- Piazza Vecchia , is a marble Neptune very big, made by Barthol. Ammanati ; un- ep un ' der Neptune are two lea-monders which throw out water. Neptune rides in his chariot drawn by four brafs horfes ex¬ cellently made. They feem to be fwim- ming in the lea. A very large odlagonal bafon of marble, on which are placed four fea nymphs in brafs, and at each corner is the figure of a fawn or fatyr holding a fifh Ipouting out water under their arms. The old palace is a large and high pile The old of building, with a tall Campanile ; the pAau. great hall is about the bignefs of that at Augsburg dadthoufe, but not fo plea- fant and lightfome ; in this the walls are well painted, and the roof pictured. The labours of Hercules are here in di- dindt datues. By the entrance into this palace is a Hercules killing Cacus , made by Bandinello , 1534. S. Spirito is a pretty convent of Au- s. Spiritg. guftines , who have a large and neat church ■, in the choir is a dately marble altar under a canopy, fupported by four marble pillars; the monks fit about it in an odtagon of marble. The Carmelitx Calceati have a good cloider. We informed our felves of fome Aones they find not far from Florence , at Ki¬ rn agio three miles and a half off, and at Ponte Arrignano 12 miles off, where they dig dones with the fignatures of herbs, trees, and reprefentations of landskips. In the Arnus is a yellow done they po- lifh well. Black flate is brought from Genoa. Brochotello is a kind of fine agat or marble from Spain. They polifh dones with Luftro , Geffo , (3 c. and faw them afunder with a little bow, having a brafs wire firing, wetting the done often with . . . A handfome done table of mofaick work will cod here about 800 crowns. The Florentine language is the mod pure Italian ; but a great imperfection in the pronunciation may eafily be ob- ferved 2 Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. ferved in the inhabitants of ftufcany^ es¬ pecially about Florence ; for they fpeak their words in their throats with a ftrong afpiration ; therefore this faying. La lingua Zofcana in bocca Komana ; the Romans fpeaking molt diftin&ly. Two millions of fcudi the duke’s reve¬ nue, but he fpends not above one mil¬ lion per annum. There are two hundred horfe that guard the Ihore every fummer night, but there goes out only thirty at a time, and are allowed four fcudi per menfem a man. Forty thoufand footmen enrolled, and one thoufand horfe divided into twelve companies, and ruled by ftrangers. The Florentines are prohibited to keep arms in their houfes. Sept. i. We hired two horfes for 20 julii, and travelled this day to Siena. We went out of Florence at Porta Romana, and rode a ftone caufeway moft part of the day ; we firft pafs’d between fome hills, and had a pleafant profpcdt of the coun¬ try which is very hilly, and after four miles went by a fair Carthufian mona- ftery, and four miles further, came thro’ S. Cafciano a walled place on the top of a hill, and when we defcended, had fome level ground in a a narrow valley 5 here we left the ufual road by Poggi-bonzi (where is made the beft perfumed to- bacco-fnuif) and fav’d four miles riding, then came to a fmall village S. Bocco , and eight miles from Cafciano baited at S. Donato , a fmall walled place ; thence we had ftony and mountainous way, five miles to Cajlellina , another little walled place, and two miles further had rocky deep way ; but the laft five miles we SIENA, had very level and good way to Siena. jg The domo hath an afcent by feveral fteps at the weft end, which is beauti¬ fied with carvings, ftatues, &c. and at the entrance is a ftone of the pavement thus infcrib’d, CaftiJJimum f virginis tem- plum cafe memento ingredi. The church is of a good length, crufted all over, both within and without with marble. The walls and pillars within are of black and white marble. Round the body of the church and choir are the heads of all the popes (except two or three of the laft) in ftone. The prefent pope hath his ftatue in a fitting pofture, and this underwritten, Alexander Septimus Ponti - fex Maximus , Anno mdclv. Under the pope’s heads are the empe¬ rors, and againft the pillars ftand marble figures of the apoftles. Here is a rich gilt organ given by the prefent pope, and an altar building nigh his ftatue. The pavement before the high altar, and half the church pavement is of mol'aick Vol. VI. work, made by Micbellino Sanefe , where- Skippon. in are defcrib’d fome bible ftories ; that of Abraham with his fon at facrifice, and Mofes ftriking the rock, is curioufly and exadly done. About the choir is good painting in frefco^ drawn by Sodoma. Two great filver candlefticks flood before the altar, and at the altar are 14 brafs an¬ gels, each holding a lighted candle. In a little room called the Libraria , the ftory of JEneas Sylvius the pope, is admirably well painted on the wall, one faid to be done by Petro Perugino , and the other by Raphael Urbin ; under all are infcriptions, one was tranfcribed, viz. JEneas Sylvius d Bajilienfi Concilio in ul- teriorem Britanniam Orator ac Scotiam ad Regem Calexium miffus , u tempejla- te in Norvegiam pulfus et per Britan¬ niam Reges fpeculatores eludens Baji- leam revertitur. The pulpit is offtone well carv’d. The cupola is covered with lead. La Madonna is a pretty church, hung La Ma- round with pictures of miraculous cures, donna. tfc. The Dominicans church in Campo Re- gio is very broad and without pillars j here many Germans are buried. The Auguftines is like it, but leffer, they have two neat courts cloifter’d about. The bifhop’s palace is built of white marble. We law the hofpital and the prince’s palace, where prince Matthias the gover¬ nor lives, who is guarded by Switzers. The palace of pope JEneas Sylvius (Pius II.) A ftrong citadel commands the city. The Carmelites is a pretty convent. The piazza is large and very hand- fome, refembling a cockle fhell, and is well built about with tradefmens houfes, &c. a fquare fountain called Feme Brande , three fides whereof compafied with a ftone wall whereon figures of marble in baffo relievo. La Saptenza is the fchools, an indif- l, c ap ;. ferent building, where are fome ftudents, cma. and about 40 profeffors. Moft of the houfes in Siena are built of brick ; they are tall, and generally handfom, only they have paper win¬ dows inftead of glafs. This city is fituated on hills, and is very pleafant, the ftreets cleanly and neatly paved with bricks fet edgeways. Wine here fold for one julio a flask, which is lemewhat a fmaller meafure than that at Florence. It feem’d to have a tafte of vitriol. 8 B In 6^6 A Journey thro ’ Part of the {Italy. Skippon. i n feveral piazza’s, the arms of the city ( Romulus and Remits fucking the wolf) are eredled upon pillars. Palazzo di At the Palazzo di Signori is tone di Signori. Mangio , a tall fquare tower, whence we took a full profpedt. The Capitano , who is a Sanefe , lives here. The roof of one room we faw moft excellently painted by Michellino. A void fpace of ground between the inner and outward gates. There is a faying, Siena fi manta di quattro Cofe , di rone & di Campane j di Bardaffe e di Butane. Siena almonds are counted the beft, and of them are made excellent march- panes. Sept. 3. We agreed with a vitturine, or meffenger, to provide us horfes and diet, till we came to Rome and going out of the gates of Siena , the fearchers flop¬ ped us, becaufe our mallijta or port¬ manteaus were not fealed at the dogana, (which cofts two julii a portmanteau.) But the vitturine telling them we were Germans , (who have great privileges here) they let us pafs. At fome miles diflance we paft by Cuna, a fmall walled place, on our right-hand ; afterwards we came through Bonconmento a walled town, where Henry the VI. emperor, died. To this place we had good way, and obferved a corn country • here began a hilly road; we dined at Zornieri , 17 miles from Siena ; three miles from hence we rode through S. ^uiricbo, a walled town, on the top of a hill, whi¬ ther the duke of Crecqui retired when he received the affront at Rome-, 14 miles more we travelled a mountainous country, and rode up a high afeent to Rodicofani which hath a caflle on the very top of the hill, and lodged this night at the poflhoufe, a fair inn. This day we obferved a kind of fledge to carry dung in. The rivers Arbia and Ombrone we paffed ovtr near Bonconmento , and had Monte AU'mo on our right hand. Sep. 4. Two hours before fun-rifing, we took horfe, and rode fix miles defeent on the mountains, and three miles furth er left the great duke’s country, and went over Ponte Argentino , a fair bridge, built by Gregory XIII. over the river.Three miles more brought us up to the top of a hill, where we pafs’d thro’ Aquapendente , (a long flreet in it) walled about. Four miles thence we rode a plain way, on a high ground, and came down a craggy hill, to S. Lorenzo , a fmall walled place; then we travelled a fenny country, by the fide of Lago di Volfena , which is about 30 miles in circuit, compaffed with hills full of wood, and flored with coots and other fowls ; and four miles from St. Lorenzo dined at Volfena , a fmall and poor walled place, with a caflle. Here¬ abouts we obferved the burning of chaff, and met many affes laden with flax; and many pilgrims were in this road, who begged of us. From Volfena we went through a wood, on a craggy hill, and after eight miles came to Montefiafcone , a walled town, on the top of a hill, where we had a fair profpedt of Viterbo , and the circumjacent country 5 here we drank of a whitifh fweet wine, called mofchatella. From M. Fiafcone we made a fleep defeent at firfl, and then rode an eafy defeent in a champion country, till we came to the city of Viterbo a mile Viterbo, or two before we arrived, the fmell of a fulphur well, a mile from the town, was very offenflve to us. The domo is but a mean flrudlure, T ^ c tono. where Alexander VI. Adrian V. and Clement IV. are buried ; we faw a tomb- flone with the effigies of pope Job. Lufi - tana XXI. This city is large and pleafantly fitu- ated on the riflng of a hill ; the houfes are indifferently built; many tall fquare towers in the city. An old caflle and a piazza before it, where is a handfeme fountain, and in the chief flreet another large fountain. After we had viewed Viterbo, we took horfe, Sept. 5. and came up a woody hill, and defeended by Jl Lago di Vico y formerly called Lac us Cy minus, about five miles in circuit. In that wood we ob¬ ferved tall and large oaks. Then we had good way fix miles to P~onciglione 9 a walled place, on the top of a hill, and here began a champion country, where we travelled five miles, and pafs’d by a fmall lake, juft before we afeended to Monte Rofi. Thence we went feven miles to Bacca.no , and lodged this night in a fair new inn, built near a little lake, compaffed round with hills. The air here is counted bad. In this journey we obferved our horfes to {land ftill, when we chirped them, which in other countries would encourage them to go fafter. Sept. 6 . We went through a wood called II Bofco di Baccano, formerly Mefia , which was fome years fince noted for robbers, and gave occafion to this proverb. Par che Siama nel Bofco di Baccano , ufed by thofe that are in a fufpicious place. We travelled a good but hilly w 7 ay, and obferved this morning very thick mills, in the Campagna about Rome , which feemed to Hand in the midll of a lake. 3 Italy.] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 6 47 lake. Two or three miles before we reached Rome, we law Nero's tomb, and then rode between the villa’s and large gardens; over the gate of one, was this rhime, Pura, pudica, pia, miferis mi- ferere Maria. Then we pafs’d over Ponte Mo lie, antiently Pons Mi l-vius, over the I’ybur, and rode a mile in the Via Fla- mini a, a broad and ftraight way, well paved, and on each fide were gardens ROME, and villa’s ; this way brought us to Rome, where we entred at Porta Flaminia, now called del Popolo, where we gave one of our names, and a fellow with a paper in his hand, went with us to the dogana where our portmanteau’s were fearched, but no printed books prohibited, being found, we were difmifs’d,and gave a julio to the fellow, and another to the learchers. As loon as we entred P. del Popolo, which is a {lately gate, on the left-hand is a church dedicated to Santa Maria del Popolo, with a handfome piazza, having in the middle an obelisk and a fountain, and fronting to the gate is Santa Maria di Monte Saudio ; and S. Maria delli Miracoli, fair buildings. At this piazza de P. del Popolo, three llrait ftreets begin; i. Strada Paulina, that leads to the piazza di Spagna. z. Strada del Corfo, above a mile long which brings to the capitol. And 3. A flreet that leads to Palazzo Borghefe. The particulars obferved during our flay at Rome, were thele ; Porta del Popolo was contrived by Mich. Angelo, on the outfide of it {land the ftatues of Peter and Paul. The pan- The pantheon is now called the iheon. Rotunda, dedicated to All Saints, which hath a large portico in the front, fup- ported on the outfide by eight great pillars, and 6 remaining of eight within the portico; every pillar being one piece of ftone. It hath no light within but what comes in at a round hole on the top of a cupola, which is divided into five rows of fquares, and in every row are 28 lefter fquares, under them are 14 windows or arches filled up with brick, which this temple is built of; where the cupola begins to arch, there is a wrought ledge. There were fix niches that are now fix chapels, befides the high altar, and each hath two ftriated pillars before it, and between each chapel is an altar: The architrave, and each fide of the entrance into the pantheon is one piece of {lone ; here are two inlcrjptions figni- fying the repair of the portico by Urban VIII. who took away the brafs and lead from hence, and therefore this pafquil was made then, < 9 uod nonfecenint Barbari ; fecerunt Barbarini. See the infcription in Roma Modern a, Skippon. pag. 324. The pantheon is 144 foot high, and as many w'ide. The pavement is figured into fquares and rounds interchangeably, the fquares are grey marble compafTed with a border of porphyry, and the rounds are porphyry of one ftone. Moft of the white ftones on the pavement contain exadlly three Roman feet, and the le{fer in porphyry, one foot and a half. Agrippa built the pantheon. On all-faints day the pope and cardinal ule to vifit this church, and printed papers are palled on pillars, &c. fignifying every time a mafs is faid at the high altar here, a loul is freed out of purgatory, which is an indulgence firft granted by Gregory XIIJ. 1 he gate or entrance into the pantheon is all of one entire marble ft one, and is between the iambs or fides 10 feet -4-~ ^ j y iuoo* Greaves on the Roman foot, p. 127. An old porphyry tomb before the rotondo. The pantheon is entirely compofed of the Corinthian order. Freart. pag. 3. Sept. 8. At S. Augufiins church was kept the feftival of 'Thomas di Villa nova, a faint of a new {lamp. The Piazza Naona, anciently Circus piazza Agonalis, is a large and long place, in Naona. the midft whereof Hands an Egyptian obelisk, called Obelifco Pamfilio , becaufe ere&ed by Innocent X. whole arms, the dove, is upon the top of it. It Hands upon an artificial rock, out of which gufh great ftreams of water, which are .received in a huge bafon, where is a fifh, among feveral others, figured, that the fuperiluous water runs away in At each corner of the rock is a large marble figure 0 b e lhh. repreftenting four great rivers. The hieroglyphicks on this obelisk are deferibed by Kircher the jefuit. This is the ftatelieft fountain in Europe. In the evenings of fummer holydays, the w'ater of this fountain is let run about it, and coaches make their tour about it, ftriving to get into the file or rank. There are alfo in Piazza Naona three other fair fountains. Prince Pamfilio's palace is in the Piazza p y \ nC e Naona ; he was formerly a cardinal, but Pamfilio’; had a difpenfation to marry. palace. S. Agnefe is a handfome new church s.Agncfe. building at the charges of prince Pam¬ filio. Pa/quin’s ftatue is at a corner of the Pafquin. bookfellers ftreet; it is only the Bufium of an ancient ftatue much broken, and is called Pafquin, from a taylor who had formerly a {hop here, w'here there ufed to be a refort for news, &c. The 6 4§ Skippon. The obelisk in the piazza of S. Peter’s was brought from Nero’s Circus , behind 1 J the church, and Sixtus V. employ’d Dominicus Fontana , an architect, to eredt it here. It is without hieroglyphick figures, and is 72 foot high ; befides the pedeftal, which is 36 foot high. On the top Julius Caefar’s alhes were preferred, but now there is a croft on the top, with a piece of our Saviour’s crois, and indul¬ gences granted of 10 years, and as many quarantains, at the laying to it, three Pater Nofter’s and three Ave Mary’s for the exaltation of holy church. This obelisk was formerly eredted to Augustus and Tiberius. Obelisks are called Giulie by the vulgar. In the piazza of S. Peter’s is one fair fountain, with plenty of water, on one fide of the obelisk, and another is de- figned on the other fide. The portico Round the piazza, this pope Alexander of Alcxan- VII. is building a moft ftately portico, der vii. (Cavaliero Bernino being architedl) having four rows of great pillars, in the middle a coach may drive, and on each fide people may walk ; a balcony round the top. From hence a double row of pillars lead up to the entrance of the Vatican palace, whence there is a long gallery to the caftle S. Angelo, s. Peter’/ S. Peter’s church is a moft magnificent church, ftrudlure, having a noble afcent by fteps to a portico, in the front, as large as many fair churches. There are ieven gates to this church, and the Porta Sanffia is in the portico, which was now walled up, but in the year of jubilee the pope breaks it down, with great folemnity ; over the portico are huge ftatues of apoftles, &c. The Porta San/yta is 11 r foot wide between the jambs or fides. The great gate, in the middle, covered with braft, is 11 73-5•§■ foot wide between the jambs. Eight vaft pillars fupport the body of the church, which are crufted over with marble, and are adorned with feinted popes heads; angels and doves are carved over each arch of the pillars. Mich. Angelo was the architect employ’d by Julius II. Two large ftatues, one of which is remarkable for treading on a braft terreftial globe. Every altar is adorned with ftately marble pillars. Behind the high altar were four vaft ftatues gilding, of the evangelifts, made h J Cavalier0 Bernino , which are to fupport S. Peter s (an old gilt) chair, which now ftands on the top of an altar on the north fide. In a chapel on the fbuth fide is kept a wreathed pillar that (they fey) belonged to Solomons temple ; {Italy, and more of thole pillars are preferved in the altars of the cupola. S. Peter s chair was expofed to view January 8. and the people had their beads touched at it. The high altar enlhrines the bodies of S. Peter and S. Pauly in a defcent railed about; over the altar is a braft canopy, with feveral braft figures, fupported by four wreathed pillars of the fame metal, brought by Urb. VIII. from the pantheon, Cavaliero Bernino contriving it. They w'eigh 151794 lb. We took a bolletin or little paper fealed, which we left at a door on the north fide of the church, and there went up an ealy fpiral afcent to the top of the church, where we had a pleafant view of the feveral cupola’s, and walk’d upon a flat, which feemed like a piazza. At the entrance into the great cupola is this infcription, on a ftone, Decreto ill nor - et K or • Card. Fabrics Cujlos cmnes ad videndum gratis admit - tito nihil PopofcitOy nec fponte dantibus recipito. We had then another eafy winding afcent, and went up fome ftone flairs to the convexity of the cupola; and read another infcription, viz. Decharatio Schommunicato chi cacara et pifcera fu , et chi far a altre fporcitie. We had a profpedl down into the church, where the high altar appeared a fmall thing, and men and women like black fpots in the pavement. We came then into a room under the braft ball, where fome ufe to bring wine and refrefh themfelves after the pains of getting up fo high. We went into the braft ball, which will hold 32 men; the fun fhining made it very hot being there. From this church we had a large profpedl of the city, country, and fea. In this church the head of 'Thomas Becket is kept for a relique. In four chapels of the cupola are pre¬ ferved thefe four reliques, viz. 1. The Sudarium or handkerchief of Veronica , (whole ftatue is eredled here, made by Fran. Mochi ) which is called alio II Volto SantOy becaufe they fay our Saviour left the impreflion of his face on it, when he went up to mount Calvary. Salvator is imagine m Veronica fudario ex¬ cept am, ut loci Majefias decenter cuflo - direty Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. condi- torium A Journey thro' Part of the Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 649 toriuin extruxit et ornavit. Anno jnbi- icci. Mdcxxv. 2. In the chapel dedicated to S. Longi¬ nus, (whofe ftatue Bernino made) is kept the iron fpear head, that was thruft into our Saviour’s-body. 3. A piece of the crofs which belong’d to the emprefs Helena (whole ftatue is made by Boggil) 4. S. Andrew' s head, whole ftatue was made by Francefco Fiamviingho. A marble balcony over each of thole figures; where on certain feftivals thole reliques are {hewed to the people. Behind the high altar is a handfome monument to Paulas III. Farnefms Pont. Max. where are two rare marble ftatues, one a lean fhriveled woman, the other a handlome wench, which was formerly naked, but now covered with lead, becaufe (they fay) a Spaniard was in love with it. Another fair tomb to Urbanus VIII, Ubertinus Pontifex Maximus , a death being figured writing his name on a black marble. The cupola’s of the ten chapels are richly gilt and painted within, and their walls crufted with marble. The great cupola within hath this infcription, itu es Petrus , et fupra hanc pctrani cedi- ficabo Ecclefiam meam , et dabo tibi claves re the duke of Crecqui his lady, who was French affaulted by them in her coach, and one kin i’ s em ~ of her pages kill’d ; there having been a l ‘ lJ ‘ quarrel between the embaffador ( Crecqui') his fervants and thofe foldiers. In execrationem damnati facinoris Contra E. D. Ducem Crequium Oratorem ChriJlianiJJimi Regis Amihtibus Corfis xm. Kal. Septembris Anni mdclxi. pat rati Corjica Natio ex decreto juffuq • SS m i D. N. Alexandri VII Pont. Max. Inhahiiis et incapax ad fedi Slplic# tnferviendum In executionem Concordia Pifis innit a Ad perpetuam rei memoriam declarata efl Anno mdclxiv. At Monte Cavallo ftand the ftately Monte Ca- and curious ftatues of two men holding two horfes, the workmanfhip of Phidias Qdrmalis. and Praxiteles. Ffuattro Fontane is near M. Cavallo , where four ftreets meet, and at each corner is a fountain. The pope’s palace at M. Cavallo is The pope h a long building ; within is a fair large P illace - court. One day we law the pope Alex. VII. coming out from a chapel where he had laid mal's: before him went feveral gentlemen ; a prieft in a blue habit with a gold crofs: and when he came out into a prefence-chamber, many kifs’d his toe ; and one German prieft, after he had laiuted the fhoe, begg’d, aloud, an in¬ dulgence for himfelf and 20 of his friends. The pope gave his benediction, by lift¬ ing up two of his fingers. He went into his fedan, and was follow’d by fome car¬ dinals in coaches, and bifhops on mules; next came his light horfemen, about 20 ; every one with a lance and a banner on it; then three trumpets and a kettle¬ drum before a troop of cuiraffiers all in armour ; round about the fedan went a guard of Switzers in their red and yellow liveries; a company of musketeers ftood nigh the palace, who all were in a ready pofture, and kneeled as the pope went by. He had a red habit over a iurplice, and 6$2 Skippon. an d a gold tippet ; his hat was red, and '-'''V"''-' plaited. In this equipage he went to S- Augoftmo on 11 Septemb. and vifited the altar of S. Fbo. di Villa Nova. The great chapel in this palace is one arch, well wrought and gilt. All the rooms were hung with red, and above the hanging is frefco-painting. We faw neat models of this, and the Vatican palace, with their gardens ; and the roofs of them might be lifted up, and all the rooms difcover’d a model of the pantheon , and one of the domo at Siena ; a death’s head in marble, rarely done by Bernini , a neat clock, made by Campani , wherein a death walks with a flaming fword at the driking of every hour. The gardens are pleafant and large, with fine water¬ works. No dranger can fee this palace but when the pope is abroad, as he was at this time in the country at Caftello. An obelisk, with hieroglyphick figures on it, (lands in the pizza of Porta del Popolo • on the pedeflal is an infeription concerning Augujhis , &c. viz. Imp. Ctefar Divi F. Augujlus Pontif. maxi mus. Imp. XII. Cof. XI. Erib. Pot. XIV. .Egypt 0 in poteftatem populi Ro¬ mani redutla Soli donum dedit. Another infeription of Sixtus V. his erecting to the honour of the crofs. It flood in the Circus Maximus , and was, when entire, 88 feet long, villa Lu- The Villa Ludovifia is within the walls, uoviiia. where we obferv’d thefe remarkables : About 20 large urns, wherein, they lay, the old Romans ufed to keep oil. In tf.e anticamera roof is painted Aurora in her chariot drawn by two horfes, efteem’d highly ; a marble flatue of Venus , made by Job. Bologna , a rich bedded, valu’d at 80,000 crowns: on the bed’s-head is a profpebt of a town made in jafper 3 the ground of it is lapis lazuli , a goddefs in a chariot of chalcedony, k 3 c. two very large topazes, nine great pearls are orna¬ ments of the bed’s-head, filver and gilt figures, the bed-pods are ofamethydand lapis lazuli , rubies fet about the bed’s- teder, granats, jalpers and agats towards the bottom ; a cabinet, having in the front of it a piblure of Greg. XV. his face of chalcedony, and his robes of one ruby: many curious landskips of mofuic work ; the nativity, and a Madonna , pidlur’d by Raphael Urbm ; Francis I. king of France , and his phyfician, by Vincio ; a Madonna in mofaic work, with pieces of fattin laid on for her garment; a model of the bull in Palazzo Faruefe, a model of Laacoon , a lion killing a horfe, in a model; and another of Antoninus on {Italy. the capitol ; the heads of M- Antony , Jupiter , Seneca , Pompey ■ the datue of the gladiator, who get Coramodus on Fauftina 3 the pictures of Sufanna and the elders; Lot and his daughters, and Lucre- tia j Judith killing Holofernes , by Gar- cino ; a German clock, where the pope and cardinals go in proceflion every time it drikes ; a curious datue of a dying gladiator ; the datue of Hercules 3 a great brafs head of M. Aurelius ; an old woman painted rarely well, by Fitian ; a crucifix, with a ladder and ten figures cut out of one piece of alabader ; an herma¬ phrodite fleeping , the head, thigh-bones, of a man petrefy’d together 3 the head of a fea-horfe ; feveral pictures of done bado relievo ; the head of the oracle of Apollo , a large porphyry done, bunches of grapes wreathed about his head j two datucs, refembiing Amicitia , counted one of the bed antiquities in Rome ; Sextius Marius killing his daughter, and then himfelf, is a rare piece - 3 Pluto carrying away Proferpine 3 and his dog Cerberus , made by Cavalier0 Bcrnino ; the dolphin with the dead boy on his back ; the head of Scipio Africanus , made of green Egyptian marble, which cod 12,000 crowns • a large Egyptian idol 3 the trunks or budum of an old datue, an excellent piece of work • the head of Olympia in balfo relievo j cupid with his hand thro’ the mouth of a mask ; Cicero and Caligula's heads, much edeem’d. The gardens about this villa are large, and full of long walks and pretty groves, and round, void, fquare and oval places are old datues and heads fet thick. Fair vineyards and fountains. An infeription, beginning thus j D. O. M M. Aur. Mucianus , &c. In a little garden, when we depp’d on one done dep, it turn’d up and forc’d water up, that wet the danders by, and thole that tread on it. We gave the gardener one juho 3 and him that Ihew’d us the rarities, four julii. The fountain of Mofes in Strada Pia, whole dory is in baffo relievo, is a dately fountain, where a great plenty of water gufhes out of an aqiueduA , built by Sixtus V. who brought the water 20 miles. Aqua Crabra nigh this aquae• dull. The ruins of Dioclefian's baths are nigh the Cartbufims , who are making part of the old building a portico to their cloider, and a crofs building, with one broad arch, is their church, at the entrance whereof is a round arch’d place; eight pillars, with curious capitals, fupport part of the dructure. Cardinal Alciat and Pius IV. have their monuments here. Many A journey thro ’ c Purt of the Italy.’] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. 653 Many great ruins about this con¬ vent. s. Pietro S. Pietro Mont or to , antiently Mans Montorio. ‘Janiculus , is in franftevcre, belonging to the Francifcans, who have a fountain built by the king of Spain. In a chapel here are two monuments, and an altar-piece of balTo relievo. From this convent we had a large profpedl of the city. We faw at this church the famous picture of the transfiguration of our Saviour, drawn by Raphael Urbin. In the middle of the cloifter-court is a pretty round chapel with a portico of pillars about it, and underneath is another chapel. This was antiently Sacellum fyburtinx Sybillx. An aqtu- Nigh S. Pietro Montorio a ftream of duti. water, like a little river, empties itlelf out of an aquaedudl that runs 35 miles from Lac us Braccianus ; it was built by Auguftus, and repair’d by Paulus V. and is fupported by thick, fquare pilafters. villa Pan- Villa Panfilia is without S. Pane race filia. gate, and is four or five miles in compafs, where we faw the ftatue of Seneca ; Mar¬ tins ty’d by the hands and feet to the (lump of a tree, an old piece, and taken notice of for the neat feet; a curious picture in black and white of the Baccha¬ nalia ; two defigns of Michael Angelo ; a laughing Pan , a Bacchus ; feveral night- pieces ; one the picture of a men’s head, which cannot well be difcern’d without a candle ; the heads of emperors, &c. round a hall ; a curious ftatue, with his hands under his garment; a Pan with a lovely face ; the picture of a counteft of Bedford ; a large porphyry veflfel ; a fleeping Cupid ; another Cupid , mask’d like Hercules ; a Venus drawn by the life after the ftinpe of a Courtifana ; two Cupids and two doves, with a cart full of flowers, &c. by her ; a modern Bacchus , his ftatue in porphyry • the pidture of a ftorm at fea ; a rare picture of Sir 2 'ho. More in (mail; the {forming of a caftle, by * 7 enipejla i a wench looking lice and fleas in her fmock by the light of a lamp. Villa di Villa di Medici , belonging to the duke efufeany^ is on Monte Pincio near Piaz¬ za di Spagna , where we obfcrv’d the ftatue of Apollo ; the famous Greek ftatue of Venus, under which is written, KAsopew Amv.oJb&v AS nvcuof trxinjiv'’ the ftatue of a country fellow, (who was of Cateline s coni'piracy) in a bending pofture, with a knife in his hand ; a ftatue of Martius , larger than that at Villa Paraphilia : this figure, they fay, is imitated for lomc of the poftures by thofe that reprefent our Saviour on the crofs. The two wreftlers are admirably well done. In the garden is Egyptian a imail Egyptian Obelisk ; a neat brals obelisk. VoL VI Mercury on a fountain ; and on each a Skippon; figure of the fame metal, one a Silenus , looking on a child in his arms. This diftich here: Bella manu pacemqigero, mcxprxfcius aid. Ex luce 'ventura fatorum arcana recludam. Two marble lions; on one is written, Opus Flaminii Vaccx Romani. Two vaft oblong marble bafons; a marble Cleopatra , her head, arms and legs modern , Niohe , with 13 fmall figures in different pollutes; an old man and an horfe, excellently well done ; an artificial mount, fliaded with tall cyprdTes ; the ftatue of a hunti- man. FI ere we gave a teftone or three julii. Columna fa jam is 128 feet high, eredf- The pillar ed upon a pedeftal (carved with armour, «/ Trajan. each fide whereof is 20 feet; the pillar on the outfide is curioufly wrought with the ftory of frajans war in Dacia ; it confifts of 23 vaft marble ftones ; the pedeftal of eight; the laurel crow.n over it of one ; the capitulum of one, and the top of one, upon which the afhes of the emperor were kept in a gold ball; but now, inftead of it is the ftatue of St. Peter. We went up to the top (as we told) by 173 fteps; but Ciaconus , in his defeription of this pillar, (ays there are 184, and 43 little windows. An obelisk {lands before Sand a Maria An obelisk. Maggie,re ; and there is a curious furrow’d pillar brought from the femplum Pads , whereon is erebled by Paulus V. a brals figure of the virgin Mary. S. Maria Maggiore is a long and large S. Maria church, where we faw two curious M -SS 10rc chapels : in that on the fouth-lide are two {lately monuments; one with the ftatue of Pius V. and ftories in curious ftone bafifo relievo, reprefenting his mak¬ ing M. Ant. Columna general again!! the furks , &c. and his aflifting Charles IX. of France again!! the proteftants. The other monument hath the ftatue of Sixtus V. and the ftory of his building an hofpi- tal, canonizing a faint, erecting of obe¬ lisks, building of the aquaedudl, % 3 c. all curioufly done in ftone baflfo relievo. In the chapel on the north-fide, which was built by Paulus V. is his tomb, and the monument of Clemens VIII. both adorn’d with baflfo relievo work. This is call’d Capella Paulina, having the better paint¬ ing; and that Capella Sift in a, having the beft fculpture. In the portico of this church is an old ftone fix’d in the wall, deferibing by carved figures the manner of our Saviour’s lying in the manger, &c. over it is this infeription : 8 D Card 6$4 SkippON. Card. Antonio Barberino Arcbipresb. aram marmoream Chriftianorum pietas ex- fculpfit , laborante fub lyrannis Ec- lefia , at ejfet loci Sandiitate Venerabi- lior Francifcus Gualdus Arimin. miles S. Stephani e [no mufxo hue tranjlulit MDCXXX. This church is on Mans Efquilinus. s. John S' 'John Lateran (built on M. Celias') Latx-ran. j s a ver y handfome church, with a rich¬ ly gilt roof, having double ifles with great fquare pillafters. Twelve {lately marble niches for the apoflles about the body of the church. Before the high altar is pope Martin V. his brafs figure lying on a tomb. Stories in bafto relievo in the wall. Pope Sylvefter s monument here. This pope Alexander VII. hath eredted one to Alexander IIP with his infeription. Alexandre III. Pont. Max. Mob Hi Bandinella gente Senis not. £)ui difficilhmis temporibus Exitnia pietate Summa prudentia ac dodtrina Ecclefix pr a fit it amis xxii. Invidla fort it udine atq-, Conftantia Apofiolicx fedis jura Audioritatem dignitatemqretinuit FA pofi immenfos labores Ac folicitudines pace parta Oecumenicum Laleranenfe Concilium Celebravit SandtiJJimas de eligendo fummo Pontifice Deq 3 rt Gtov liipsnnfiium. them 3 Locufia Cornuta terreftris 3 Gryllo- talpa aquat. Serpcntis fpecies Vulg. Lu- ciula 3 a book of infers painted by his own hand 3 another book of plants and flowers curioufly done by him 3 exotick fruits, viz. Gazobea Brafil. Pomura Ind. which feds like a fungus, and rebounds like a ball • Buchala Ind. Pichualla Bra¬ fil. Alattas Ind. Phafeolus Brafil. cum maculis nigris 3 malum AEtbiopicum 3 Zid- cbealas Ind. vel Phafeolus Indicus mini¬ mus 3 Balfamum Americ. Pkraziodhirricb. Phafeolus coralloid. minor. Capcapha Arabian 3 Caphas 3 Phafeolus Brafil. ma- ximus purp. variegatus 3 Guaivo from Goa 3 an ^Egyptian idol of wood 3 a Sy¬ ren s rib 3 mantis hominis mar ini • a child five months old preferved in a glafs full of white liquor 3 fcorpions and a Lacerta fiellaris preferved fo in another glafs 3 minera purp. Argenti ex Polonia 3 a cru¬ cifix made of red, yellow, white and black amber 3 another amber crucifix of red amber, ! given him by the king of Poland 3 a skeleton in wax made by Mich. Angelo 3 Cccus Maldavicus 3 Ra¬ dix Contrayervce cum foliis 3 Aurnm po- tabilc 3 Effentia Lap id. Bezoar. a cup made of a Bezoar 3 Balfamum Arab. 3 the leg of a mummy, which he faid was part of an Egyptian queen 3 a fparrow prelerved with balfam, {fie. Pifcis Ich¬ neumon 3 feveral pictures done in minia¬ ture by his After Alagdalena Corvino. Tarantula Apula , which he kept lome time alive 3 and the poifon of it, he laid, broke two glades 3 the nut, he faid, the Balfamum grew in. He called his embalm¬ ing matter Gabaros. He hath a pretty garden of rare plants. At cardinal Rondine’s palace is the arms of the king of England, and the arms of an Englijh cardinal, viz. the field fable, a crols argent with four heads of the firft, a lyon gules, a role gules be¬ tween two birds in a chief Templum Saturni , or the AErarium , is Templum now a church dedicated to S. Adrian. SatUrni - The temple of Romulus and Remus , is Temple of now S. Cofmus and S. Damianus church. Romulus The firft entrance is a round place like the Rotunda , having a cupola in the mid- mus ' die. On the walls are painted an obe¬ lisk, and a triumphant pillar, with in- feriptions to thele two faints 3 the body of the church is fquare, and the relicks of the old temple may be eafily per¬ ceiv’d in the femicircular place the high- altar now ftands in, the walls whereof are pictured with mofaick work, repre- fenting our Saviour, fheep, {fie. S. Theodore , fome lay, was formerly s. Thco- a temple of Romulus and Remus , who ^rc. were expofed here when the tfybur ran Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. <557 in a channel fill’d up by Tarquinius Su - perbus, and made the Via Nova , to this temple the Roman dames ufed to carry their children when they were ill. Four niches within this church. On Con- ftantine's arch we oblerved (as others have done) the lower figures of the baflfo relievo to be of meaner work than thofe above, which are fuppos’d to have been remov’d from Trajan's arch. Velia. Vha is a place between Cnnfiantine s and Titus's arch, called fo from Vellere , becaufe the ancients here did pull olf the wool (vellere pecus) before the art of {baring. Santa Sept. 24. Was a great fedival at Santa Chiara. Cbiara , belonging to Francifcan nuns, where we heard one Vittoria a nun’s voice, which is highly edeemed • and we faw here the princefs MaJJimi , reputed the handfomed lady in Koine ; fhe was formerly called princefs Conti. Princefs Kofana , and the prefent Spanifh ambaf- fador’s lady (who was the wife of Don Lewis de Haroj were alfo at this mufick. Sept. 25. We hired a coach for a pidole, with fome other Englifh gentle¬ men, and rode out at Porta S. Johaunis , where we obferved the {lately ruins of an old aquaedued, which was called Aqua Claudia , and at Porta Major it divides it felf one part towards M. Palatinus. We went a champion country, and made a condant afeent, till we arrived Frefcati. at Frefcati , anciently Tufculana Civitas , now a little town. Here we faw thefe noble and pleafant Villa’s. MonJia- Mondr agone , a large building in the gone. Villa Borgbefe , where there is a gallery hung with pictures of birds, beads, &c. the picture of Orpheus ; two large marble heads ; a little w'ooden crucifix (they faid) was made by a blind man. A hall full of popes, cardinals, emperors, monks, &c. pictures. In a garden, water-lports, and upon the running of a great dream of water, artificial thunder and rain. Fine fhady walks and pine-woods, alio large vineyards, where are two villages or Cajielli. Betides Mondr agone are two other Villa s, viz. Villa Borghcfe , and Villa Tufculana. Belvc- Belvedere , or Vila Aldohrandina , now cere. belonging to prince Panfilio , where we Skippon. faw pleafant cafcates or falls of water, and heard artificial thunder, and air forced by the water, which made the figure of a Centaur blow a horn very loud. Pan played loud alfo on his pipes. A pair of organs played, andieveral figures feemed to found their indruments all by air forced. We obferved a little how thefe noifes were contriv’d • a w'heel like our chiming ones in deeples was turn’d about by another mov’d by water, and the chiming wheel had cogs which druck up the keys of the organ. In the middle of a room, a dream of air came out of a hole in the floor, and did bear up a hollow brafs ball that danc’d upon the air-dream. On each fide of a door were two cold dreams of air. Pidlures in frefco drawn by Dominicbini. Water ran down two tall pillars wreath’d about. Curious Ihadv hills and gardens here. Villa Ludovifia , hath a very high Villa Lu- dream of water forced up, which is lcat- ‘l° vilu - tered, and fills like rain, with the node of thunder. A handiome cafcate of water, and above that a fountain and pond, with pleafant fhades and walks. Below the garden is a piece of ancient build¬ ing with about 18 arches of brick From thefe gardens we had fair and delightful profpedls of Rome and the country, and clearly difeerned the fea and coad. Prince Ludovifia is now viceroy for the king of Spain at Sardinia. We ate this day of a fruit called La- Zarole (Mefpilus Aronia) which is as big as a cherry, of a yellow colour, and tades pleaiantly fharp. Styrax Ar¬ bor grows plentifully about Frefcati ; half way from Rome , are the ruins of Gordianus s palace. At night we returned to Rome. We vifited Signior Giofeppc Campani , %• Cam- who makes excellent good gl ilfes for panil telefcopes, &?c. which are finely wrought, the convexity of them being lcarce dif- cernable. He hath printed Ragguali di due 0 {fervazicni ; wherein is a ddcourlc of the limbus about Saturn , and two dark {pots in the broaded fidcia of Jupi¬ ter, which Caffinus (hewed him, and called them Jovis Satellites. Vol. VI. 8 E We - to one of Scipio Africanus's captains. Near the Fybcr, and under M. Aven- tinus, are ruins of the Roman Saimee and granaries. On a corner of the Aventine , towards Porta S. Pauli, is a bulwark railed by Paul V. The ruins of Pons Sublicius : which was firH built of wood, and called Pons Sacer. Mons tfejlaceus is about half a mile in MonsTef- compals, and is as high as a man can ta ccus * throw a Hone; it clearly appears the whole bulk of this hill confiHs of nothing elfe but broken pieces of earthen pots. Ruinous arches of Aquad. Aquce Appix. Cefitus's 66o A journey thro ’ Part of the [ Italy,' SKiproN. Cefius's pvramidical lepulchre is near Porta S. Pauli (antiently Ofiienfes & Tri¬ pe minad) and {lands part without the wall, but the greateft part within. In 1663 it was repaired ; two white marble pillars eredled before it, and in the middle is an entrance into it. The Circus The Circus Maximus was between the Maximus. Palatine mount and the Aventwe ; now arable ground. Under Mons Palatinus are vaults, which fome think were antient {hops; on the hill are the ruins of Auguftus's palace and Cicero's houfe. Antonini The {lately and vaft ruins of Antoni- Thermx. nus's baths. The Septizonium of Severus is quite ruined and taken down. In the gardens, under Mons Palat. are the ruins of Claudius's aquaedudt. Maria No- At $ Maria Nova , belonging to the Ya ' Olivetari , are the ruins of Templum Solis 6 3 LnnXy and of I fills and Serapidis. Here is a very neat marble fhrine for the flatue of S. Francifca Romana. Gre¬ gory XI- hath a fair monument adorned with baffo relievo work ; he removed the apoftolic feat from Avignon to Rome. Over two flones with hollows in them, is written, In quefto pietre pofe Ie Ginocchie S. Pietro , quando i Demonii porta vano Simon Mago per Aria. In the middle of the church is a finely teftelated pavement. s. Maria Santa Maria Liberatricc in the Forum Libera- Romanian , was the temple of Vefta. t f L< " Templum Martis and Templum Saturni , Martis. ltood near one another. At the bottom of Mons Palatinus nigh T. Jovis Statoris are the ruins of an old Curia , (Calabra ?J and between the capitol and Mons Palatinus was Curtins' s vorago. La Confo- La Confolatione is a church built where latione. the Clivus Antiquijfimus was. Nigh the Campo Vaccino is an old portico, by fome called Portions Nervae ; by others Templum Fortune , but more properly gueffed to have been Templum Templum Minerva, becaufe at the entrance is the Mmeua:. fig Ure 0 f Minerva in baffo relievo; the architrave was well carved, but it is now much defaced. In Campo Vaccino the 25 Oft. was a fair kept, where we bought Mures Avel- lanei Mofchatelle , or dormice, which w'e kept tame ; they would feem almoft dead when numb’d with cold, but the warmth of fire would prefently revive them. Annunci- Aununciatella is a nunnery, where are atdia. three pillars of a portico, a piece of {lone wall and an arch which belonged to the Forum Tran fit orium. Santa Maria in Campo Carleo , is part of S. Maria. Paulus Aftnilius's baths, which were built at the foot of Mons Viminalis , in the Ihape of a theatre, and had a pafiage round it, and feveral rooms which are now converted into {tables. c fheatnm Marcelli is now turned into Theatrum feveral dwelling houles. The columns Marcelli. are of the Doric order, and without bafes. Freart. p. 11. On St. Mark's palace, where the Vene¬ tian ambaffador dwells, is the figure of Agricultural in balfo relievo, fomewhar. defaced. On the lame wall is another {lone with Diana and her nymphs. At a back entrance into this palace is the body and head of a woman, being a large {lone. One evening flood a Jefuit, upon a A j e r u \ t Hall in the Piazza Naona , and preached peaching. with much abtion and poflures of his body; and at the conclusion, a crucifix was brought to him, w^hich he kneeled to, and with great devotion prayed to it and embraced it; the congregation feemed greatly affedled, by kneeling at the fame time, and beating their breafls. The Jefuit having done, invited the people to another fermon ; he killed the feet of the crucifix, which was prefently carried in proceflion, with two candles before, and the crowd following it ; fome priells finging, and the people anfwering. Gallienus's arch is built plain, where GallienusV two keys hang by a chain, laid to be the arch. keys of fivoli. A place with three niches of brick, wherein Marius's trophies flood. We walked thence a pleafant way to Porta S. Laurentii , antiently called T’yburtina , Taurina and Efquihna , where we faw the entrance of Sixtus V. his aquaedudl into the city, having run along the wall from Porta Majore, antiently Labicana , Frame fin a and Nevia ; whereon are old inlcriptions. Here began the Via Labicana and Prcenefina. Juft within the gate is a tall brick pillar which for¬ merly had a pipe of water, and therefore probably it w'as a Meta Sudans. Santa Croce is a mean church for the Sandta building, where are feveral relicks, viz. Croce * St. Thomas's finger which he put into our Saviour’s fide. Two fpincc of the crown of thorns, a piece of the crofs, Here is a garden enclofed by the city wall, and the ruins of Amphitheatrum Cafrenfe. In the vineyard are the remains of the temple of Venus and Cupid. An old arch near it, made like a grotto. A large cloifter’d court belongs to Santa Croce. Galluzze 3 Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 66 1 Galiirzzo. GalluZZo is (nigh S. Bibiana) a large old round building, being the biggeft (next to the pantheon) of the Roman temples remaining in Rome ; it was eretfted by Auguftus Ccefar, to the memo¬ ry of Cains and Lucius , his nephews, and therefore now called GalluZZo by the vulgar. It is not much inferior to the Rotunda in heighth and breadth • it hath io windows, but no hole on the top ; below them are eight large niches, and two great entrances oppofite to one another, in the middle is a fair marble fountain decagonal, as the figure of the temple is. An eremite lives at S. Bibi- ana. S-indtaMa- San St a Maria Tranftevere is a pretty ria. church, the pillars whereof are antient, and each of one ftone. Before the high altar is the place where they fay a foun¬ tain of oil fprung up at our Saviour’s birth. Over it is this diftich, with falfe quantity : Nafcitur bincOleuiuDeus& de Engine utroq ; Oleo facrata eft Roma Tnr arum caput. In a pillar is fix’d an old ftone, and this infeription over it : Hoc lapide ad Colhrm alligato S. Califiv.s Papa hujits Bafilic# fnndator, in puteo demergitur , martyrio coronatur. Nigh the weft door are kept three round black ftones, and this inferib’d over them: Hos lapides S#vi Tyranni pedibus Marty- rum alligabant. Thefe ftones w^ere the antients weights, as Budceus thinks. The roof of the church is richly gilt, whereon diredtly over the place where the fountain of oil was, is written • Hac prima Dei matris cede , Taberna ohm merit or i a, olei fons , e folo erumpens Chrifti ortiim oftendit. Several antient monuments here, among which that of Innocent II. s. Honu- S. Honufrio is a fmall church belonging frio. to the order of S. Hierom , where we law Tajfo the poet’s epitaph ; which we tran- ferib’d in our inn at Brefcia. s. Iiidore. S. Ifidorc is a neat church well furnifh’d with good pictures ; in a little chapel is a new monument with white marble heads, made by Caval. Bernino. A con¬ vent here of IriJJj Francifcan monks of the minor obferv. We vifited father Francis Herald , who fhew’d us their library, a large room well furnifh’d with Vol. VI. books. This friar hath epitomiz’d in two Skipi omi folio’s the hiftory of the whole order of S. Francis , written in many volumes, by Luke IVadding of Limerick , one of the fame order, whole picture hung up here. He w'as in great efteem with five popes ; and by his induftry the foundation of this convent was begun for 50 monks; which number is now leffen’d to forty, by reafon of the difturbances they lately met with in Ireland. We faw alfo the picture of one Wife. , who was a knight of the order of St. John of Jerufalem , and was prior of England in queen Mary’s time ; after her death he was favour'd in the king of Spain’s court. They have a paftage out of this monaftery into prince Ludovifio’s gardens, who is a great patron of theirs. This place is pleafantly and healthfully fituated, and it commands a view of all the city and the campania about it. Behind the duke of Florence his palace in Piazza Madama are the ruins of f thermae Alexandria#, a large arch, and Thermx fome old brick-walls remaining. Alexan- The ruins of thermae Agrippiu# are drin . 3e & behind the Rotunda , and they are vul- garly call’d Ciambell#. A church near 'Therm# Agrippina, which hath this infeription on the out- fide : Sacris Divi Francifci fiigmatibus-. In S. Carlo Borromeo’s church, where his heart is kept, we faw (on his feftival 25 Odiobd) many cardinals in their red robes and caps, who fat on a raifed bench in the middle of the church, with a guard of Switzers attending them. The fame day there was a great s _ Grefo- concourfe of people at S. Gregorio on ry. mount Cclto, where S. Greg. Magnus liv’d, and now it belongs to Camaldoli monks. For eight days, beginning on All Saints , the people pay much devo¬ tion here, and kifs a ftone table, and the foot of an image. A ftatue of the virgin Mary is in high efteem for fpeak- ing to S. Gregory. Ottob. 29. Flavius Cbijius the pope’s nephew, and cardinal Padrone (who was lately return’d from France, where he had been lent legat) made this morning a publick entrance, after this manner: Firft came a cavalcado of Roman gentle- A coal¬ men then 24 on horfeback with maces; cade . after them the cardinals on mules, and habited with their purple robes and hats, went before the cardinal Padrone , attend¬ ed by a great number of footmen in rich liveries; then follow’d many bifhops and monfigneurs, i. e. court-clergymen. The 8 F cardinal* < 5(52 A Journey thro' Part of the [Italy. Skippon. cardinals had feveral waited on them, **'"V* S * / with painted ftaves like our conftables. They began the cavalcade at Porta del Popolo, and rode to mount Cavallo, where the pope expedted his nephew in thecon- fiftory ; who, at his arrival, kifs’d his uncle’s toe, and then his holinefs kifs’d him on both cheeks; afterwards he went to all the cardinals prefent, and they gave him every one a kils. In the hall of the confervatorio, at the capitol, is this infcription, under a white marble head of Cbrijlina t queen of Sweden. The infcrip¬ tion at the capitol to queen Chriftina. Cbrijlina Sueorum Gotborum Et Vandalorum Retina Quod infiintiu divinitatis Catholic am fide m regno avito preferens Pofl adorata S. S. Apoftolorurn limina Et fubmiffam Venerationem Alexandro VII. Suntmo religionis Antiftiti exhibit am Defeipfa triumph ans inCapitolium afeenderit Majefiatifiq ; Romance monument a Vetufiis in ruderibus admirata IllViros confulari pot eft ate et Senatum Feflo capite confidentes Regio honor e finer it profecuta VIII eid. Quintil. An. mdclvi. S.P. Q.R. Stephano Petruccio Jofepho de Annibaljdenfihus ex Dnis. Capri Zancati Fabritio de Maxi mis ex Dnis. Cafiri Arfiuli Confiervatoribus Jo. Carolo de Viccolominibus ex Dnis .Cafiri Balz.erani Capitum Regionum Priore. In the confervatorio we faw the ftatue of Hercules in brafs; the ftatue of Virgil and Cicero , with the cicer on his left cheek ; the head of L. Cornelius Pra- fettus ; the brafs fhepherd pulling a thorn out of his foot ; Mitbridates his head in relievo ; Fafii Confulares ; a brafs figure of the wolf fuckling Romulus and Remus , the wolf’s left hinder foot was ftruck with a thunder-bolt in time of facrifice, which wound is ftill to be feen on this figure ; a brafs head of Jun. Bratus ; the ftatue of one of Confiant. M. his fervants ; the ftatues of Dea Cybele, Silentium and Abundantia ; the ftatues of Carolus Borromceus ; Jo. Franc. Aldobran - dims ; M. Ant. Columnia , and of Alex. Farnefius; a room with frefico painting, done by Job. Fomafio Loretto of Sicily. Upon the higheft part of the capitol Ara Cceli. hill is the church of S. Maria Ara Cali, fo call’d from an altar eredled here by Augufius , and inferib’d, Ara primogeniti Dei , becaufe he receiv’d anfwer from the oracle of Delpkos , That Cbrifi , whom he call’d a Hebrew boy, had filenc’d all the oracles. Many fteps led up to this church, where, on the fecond of November, the feaft of St. Diego was folemniz’d, the church being hung round with filk and rich tapeftry, and good voices fung; a difcalceate Carmelite made a long pane- gyrick in Italian to this Spanifh Saint. The Vatican palace hath many things Thevati- worth one’s fight: th t Sala Clementina cm V lace '. is painted in frefico, by Paulo Brilla, Jo. Bapt. Cberubino, and Jo. Alberti. In one corner we obferv’d a hoop very exadliy done. The confiftory chamber, where the pope wafhes pilgrims feet, on the holy week, the inquifition room. In a large room are great pictures, drawn by P. Cortona, which are copy’d after, to make the mofaic in S. Peter s cupolas, and in hangings. A room where the pope dines and fups, and where Urb. VIII. dy’d. The private audience-chamber for embalfadors. The Sala Confiantina, with the large frefico painting of the battle at Pons Milvius, done by Julio Romano. In the next room, the angels beating the * * ’ ‘ out of the temple. On one fide is a pope carry’d on mens fhoulders; and Raphael Urbin (who painted it) his figure at full proportion. In another room the ftory of king Pepin in frefico ; the crowning of Carolomagnus , by Gun¬ dent 10 ; a chapel and its cupola, painted by Marcello Venufii , Michael Angelo’s fcholar ; a copy of Santa Maria Mag- giore on a pellucid white marble: the original of it they fay was drawn by St. Luke , and is kept in Capella Paulina at Santa Maria Maggiore : the roof of one room painted with the afeenfion, penti- coft and M. Fab or, by Guido Rent. In the Sala Regia kings embalfadors have audience ; the walls pictured in frefico , where is deferib’d the throwing ofColigni out ofa window at the Parifian maftacre: his death was approv’d of by the French king and cardinal .... and applauded by pope Sixtus V. Rex Colinu Necem probat, written here. In the Sala Ducale are dukes embaftadors receiv’d; feveral rooms for the pope’s feveral guards ; a {lately gallery painted in frefico, with the maps of every country of Italy ; Malta and Avignion are de¬ ferib’d by Ignatius Dantes a Dominican friar ; topographical maps of the chief cities, and an intimate of what famous battles, and in what place ; the great chapel, where, at the upper end, is the famous frefico pidture of the laft judg¬ ment, drawn by Michael Angelo, who, at one corner, has painted the mafter of ceremonies to Paulus III. for affronting him : he is repreiented naked, and in hell, a ferpent twifting about him, and ? biting Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. biting him by the privities. This perlon complain’d to the pope, and delir’d it might be defac’d ; but the pope an- fwer’d, If he had been in purgatory he could have freed him, but out of hell there was no redemption. This is call’d Capella Paulina , the little chapel, where the pope fays mals every morning, (when he lodges at the Vatican) and hears a fecond mafs faid by his chaplain. On holy IVednefday noblemen, &c. receive the holt from the pope’s own hand at this place. The apartment for ftranger princes, where he gives them one dinner in a hall. In one chamber is the (lory of the countefs Matilda , painted in frefco, by Jo. Fra- Romanello. The gardens of the Vatican palace are very pleafant, with fair fountains and water-fports: one of the gardens is on the Vatican hill, and hath pretty Ihady walks ; and the other is planted thick with orange-trees : one fountain hath an iron fhip fpouting out water. We faw here the brafs pine-apple, which flood on the top of Moles Adriani ; the famous buftum or trunk of the body of Hercules’s ftatue, having this written under it; ’AtoMwi'/©* ’A GmcuQ- stbi'h > Laocoon with his two fons twilled about by {hakes, made moft lively out of one marble, by three famous Iculptors of Rhodes , viz. Agefander , Polydore and Artemidorus : two Veneres , one made a little modeft as (he went to bath herfelf Apollo , is curioufly fhap’d. Hercules ; Antinous ; the famous rivers of the world reprefented by figures ; many old faces like vizards (land on the top of the wall, which were removed from the pantheon. At the end of the corridore or gallery is a fountain, where is a notedvftatue of Cleopatra in a cumbcnt poflure. We gave two julti to one gardener, and three to another. The van- November 4. We law the Vatican can libra- library, which confifts of one very long room, and a large room or two befides the walls whereof are curioufly painted Skippon. with ftories of Sixtus V. Sc. and the old famous libraries are painted in frefco , in a great room. All the books are lock’d up in preflfes, fo that we law only fuch as are ulually (hewn to travellers, viz. a manulcript with quadrupeds , birds, fiflies, &c. rarely well pidur’d in fmall Petrus Candidas was the author. This book was brought from Mantua. Two antient parchment rolls, with painted flories of the bible, and a Greek explanation $ therein we obferv’d the manner of the antients fare a, being an inftrument fhap’d like a Y, the forked part being fix’d un¬ der the malefactor’s throat. A manulcript of Virgil, reported to be 1000 years old. Mutius his hiflory of Federico duke of Urbin j a manufeript curioufly adorn’d with miniature pictures • another manu¬ feript, being the hiflory of Franc. Maria duke of Urbm , whh excellent miniature, defign d by Raphael Urban , as lome think - y a Hebrew manulcript of a vaft bulk, for which the Jews offer’d its weight in gold ; the gofpels of S. Luke and S. John in Latin , written in golden characters ; the evangelilts in Greek , written (they fay) by S. Chryfoftom ; the manulcripts of card. Baronins ; the a< 5 ts of the apoffles, very neatly written in letters of gold, given by a queen of Cyprus to Innocent VIII. The annals of Mexico, reprefented by pictures • antient pugillares ; Fragmenta lerentii , the molt antient of any hook in this library j fthomas Aquinas his Sermones Dominicani , a manulcript, wherein is his own hand¬ writing ; a Greek martyrolngia manulcript with pictures ; a mijfaley with curous miniature painting $ Petrarch's verjes, written by his own hand ; a manufeript of Henry VIII. king of England , againfl: Luther , wherein is the king’s own hand¬ writing j many letters of Anne Bollen , in Enghjh ; the feptuaginta bible, m inu- feript; the gofpels in Greek, which were formerly fung in their churches ; letters of S. Carlo Borromeo. In the vineyard of St. Pietro in Vinculis are leveral Itone pedeltals, with thefe inferiptions. IP-ANNH 2 nAAAAYTHS 2 MTPNAIOC ArmiTOS OB FORTITVDINIS MERITA ET VIRTVTIS CU MVLVM HOC OVOD EXCELLENS ARTIS RO BVR EXEGIT PRECEPTO INV1CTISSIMORVM PR1NC1PVM DDD NNN FFF III VALENT I NIANI THEODOSII ET ARCADII JOHAN NES MERVIT VT INTER OMNES POLLENS LOCATIONS STATVAE VIDEATVR FILVME- 66 4. Skipfon. <-or>o ui journey thro 9 Part of the FILVMENVM DDD ET PRINCIPES ,7 VALENTINIAN (VS) VALENS ET GRATIANVS SEMP AUGG FILUMENVM IN OMNI ACHLETICO CER TAMINE AB ORIENTE AD OCCIDENT EM VS(^ VICTOREM PAMMACHO LVCTA PANCRATI CESTIBVSQi ID EST PYGME LOCATIONE STA TVAE IN ACHLETARVM CURIA AETERNITA TIS GLORIA DIGNVM ESSE 1VDICARVNT QVOD OMNES XYSTICI GRATANTER ACCEPERVNT SEN PARITER SIMVLQ^ PR INGENTI FABORE PROSECVTVS EST HlEPA itctikh ctnoaoC thn nEPi ton hpakaea ahokataatCe hc EN TH BACIAIAI PHMH KATOIKOTiNTHN MOTAniON AOMECTIKON AIA BIOT ITCTAP XHN KAI APXIEPEA TOT CTMEIANToC ITCTO nEPIO- AON EIKHN nAPAAOHON EniBAAANEIfiN CEBACTOT TON F.ATTON EIPOCTATHN KAI ATTON EIPECbETCANTA KAI AITHCAMENON TO TEMENOC TH CTMIIANTI ~T CTH THN TEIMHN ANA0ENT02 M METTIOT amepimnot EniAPXONTHN A OTENNOT ArPIEiriANOT KAI M METTIOT AMEPIMNOT. ATA0H TTXH HIEPA ITCTIKH CTNOAOC THN nE¬ Pi TON HPAKAEA A0AHTHN ANRCTE- 2AN EN TH BA 2 IAIAI PHMH nNH KH2 KAI PIN KA' POTION TON A nOAAHNION nEISAION AlSnEPIO AON KAI TION KA AnOAAHNION 2MTPNAION 02 KAI AIAA0X02 ErENE TO TOT IAIOT nATP02 KAI ATTOT nEPIO- AOT TEAEIOT ANAPHN EN TOlC CKAMMAClN TH2 APXIEPHCTNH2 TOT 2TMnANT02 ITCTOT 0TT02 AEME NETO KAI TEN0T2 TnATIKHN. HIEPA HTCTIKH CTNOAOC THN nEPI TON HPAKAEA AnOKATAATCE (H2) EN TH BA2IAIAI POMH KATOIKOTNTflN M ATPEAION AHMOCTPATON AAMAN (TA) EAPAIANON AAEHANAPEA ANTINOEA A0HNAION ES-E2ION 2 MTPNAION nEPi TAMHNON NEIKOMHAEA MIAH2I0N AAKEAAIMONION APXIEPEA TOT 2 TMnANTOC STCTOT AIA BIOT HTCTAPXHN KAI Em BAAANEIHN 2EBACTHN nANKPATIA2 T'HN nEPlOAON EIKHN AIC nTKTHN AAEinTON nAPAAOTON. {Italy. Near i Italy. Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 665 Near thefe ftones is an old building of a femicircular figure, which is part of Titus’s baths, commonly call’d Sette Sale. Novemb. 7. In the afternoon we went to S. Peter s, where we law cardinal Francis Barberino arcnipresbyter of the church, attended with a double file of canons lome in a dark colour’d habit, others with a white fur. In the north wing the cardinal made his private de¬ votions, and then fat himfelf down in a chair, and the canons round about on benches. Many cringing ceremonies were made to him; and one brought a bafon and ewer with water, which he held whilfl the cardinal wafh’d his hands • then they took off his upper robe, and habited him with feveral veflments and a rich cope • they laid afide his fquare cap, and firfl put on his head a rich mitre, and then another mitre. Thus dreft, he fix’d him¬ felf in his chair, and good vocal and in- ftrumental mufick entertain’d fome time. When the Gloria Patri was fung, the canons took off their caps, but the cardi¬ nal only bowed his head. The Volto Novemb. 8. We faw cardinal Barlerin Santo, &c. j n t j-jg f ame place he was feated in the {’foptllu. da y before. Four organs play’d, and a very full choir of voices fung. After the high mafs, in the balco , over the figure of S. Veronica , a piece of the crofs and the holy lance, and the volto fanto were fhewn to the people on their knees, beat¬ ing their breafls : we obferved one prieft among the crowd feem’d a little unfatisfy’d till he had put on his fpedta- cles, and us’d the help of a perfpedtive- glafs. The cardinal and canons were alfo upon their knees ; two in furpliecs, with lighted tapers in their hands, and one holding a gilt crucifix, flood before the cardinal. The orato - At the Gratorians cloifler, Santa Maria rians cloi- and Santo Gregorio in ValhccTla. Novemb. (ter. , ^ . 13, in the evening 5 we went into a chapel, where many people were feated on benches in expectation of what fol¬ low’d : Firfl, mufick began ; then a father pray’d at the altar, and the people fometimes aniwer’d ; after that a little boy mounted a pulpit, then kneeled and crofs’d himfelf towards the altar, and bowing to the company he put on his Skippon. hat, and made a fhort exhortation to vir- tue in Italian ; when he had done his fpeech, he concluded with the fame cere¬ monies he began withal. Then there was a good vocal mufick ; and after that a father took the pulpit, and paid the fame refpedl (as the boy did) to the altar and people before he fat down, and dif- cours’d about half an hour on a divinity point in Italian. He finifh’d juft as a little bell gingled, which rang alfo at the be¬ ginning and ending of the boy’s fpeech. Voices fung again,and the father concluded all with fome prayers at the altar. At Santa Maria and Santo Gregorio in Santa Ma Vallicella we heard part of an oratorian’s ri2 • difcourle. Every day (that is not a fefli- val) except Saturday , there are four dif- courles, each half an hour long, and it is concluded with a fiiort vocal mufick. This church hath a {lately front, and the infide will be very rich when the roof is finifh’d ; the cupola is painted by P. di Cortona. On the north fide of the high altar is a curious chapel crufled with marble, where the body of Filippo Nerio is enfhrin’d. The convent is a large and high building. Novemb. 14. Nigh the bridge of St. Angelo a gallows was credited for the exe¬ cution of a man and a woman. Firfl, came an officer on horfeback, wearing a gold chain with the pope’s pidture hang¬ ing at it; many sbirri attending on him • then follow’d a crucifix and the two maleftdlors (accompany’d by feveral in black difguifes) who went into a little chapel near the gallows, and the pcrfbns in difguifes fang. After fome time the man was brought out, and plac’d before the crucifix, while the boia or hangman ty’d his hands ; then the executioner and one of the difguis’d led him towards the gallows, and up the ladder, with his back always toward it, holding the pidlure of a crucifix before him ; after a little time the hangman fpeaking two or three words, he turn’d him off, and imme¬ diately leap’d upon his fhoulders. When the fellow was difpatch’d, the hangman comes down, and fetches the woman, who was executed after the fame manner. Execution of male- f actors. On a wall nigh S. Maria del Popolo is a (lone above a man’s height, whereon are inferib’d thefe verfes : Subjcbhm ut audax indicem flavins fui Fetigit fibi xquus proximo at dcprefjior Fonte imus inquit altius Find hand deect Famam aticupabor omnium cash fruar propinqitiore et feculo 1 radar novo Mcminiffe quantum vieta non xtas potefi Votas Fjhiinne bic imprime hie lybris fnis Fix ix Kal. Januar. cioioxcvui. dementis VIII. P. M. Anno VII. Yol. VI. Septimus Auratum Clemens geflabat Hctrufcus Sortc pedum hue faint quorn vagus ufq - 3 Tyber ffhiippe memor campi quern non ecluere priores Amntbus epotis in nova tell a ruit L'tq ; foret fpatii implacabilis ultor adempti Et Cererem Baccbum fuftulit utq ; Lares. Rc/larnavit vii id. Ociob. An. M D XXX. S G *Santa 666 A Journey thro’ Tart of the [Italy. Skippon. Santa Maria del Popolo hath neat chapels adorn’d with curious monuments of cardinals, bilhops, [ 3 c. Two fine marble pyramids Hand for tombs in one chapel, erected to two of this pope Alexander VII. his anceftors; viz. Au- gujlinus CbtfiuSj and Sigifmundus Chifius Senenfes. The high altar is richly drefs’d up by this pope, and on. each fide of it is an altar-pidlure let in marble between two white marble figures : one of thele altars was done at the coffc of cardinal Padrone , and the other by don Auguftino the pope’s brother. In this church is the monument of Hcrmolaus Barhams , and of one who dy’d with the bite of a cat. We law here the popifh ceremonies ufed at the baptizing of a child 3 vide Rituale Rom. We walk’d from Porta del Popolo un- ^ er t ^ e ci ty wall, to Porta Pinciana , antiently Collatina , and took notice of one corner of the wall that flood very much inclining over the highway. A great part of the wall is built with arches (in lome places double) on the outfide, like thofe at Frefcati , under prince Ludovifit's garden. Very probably this is the remain¬ der of the old wall, by the littlebricks on the outfide, and the manner of building. Troclama- Rlovemb. 15. A batido or proclama- tionagainjl t j on was f eC U p j n dj vers places, forbid- ding in ding the courtelans riding in coaches - 3 coaches, and another bando, forbidding com¬ merce with Monaco , Nizza 3 Grenoble , &c. by reafon of the plague. Hofpital of The hofpiral of S. Giacomo delf incura- mo* aC ° bills is remarkable for the many dileafed in the French pox, [ 3 c. In one room are the men, and in another the women. We obferv’d one fad fpebtacle, a woman whole nofe, eyes, part of her tongue, and the grcatell part of her face eaten away with that foul diftemper •, Ihe look’d frightfully with a raw skull. a fermon Novemb. 2 o. being S. Andrew's day, before the (Santo Novo ) his head was Ihewn at pope. g Peter's 3 and the pope and cardinals heard a fermon (preach’d by the magifter facn palatii , a Dominican) in the Capella Paulina , (which chapel was built by Patti III.) where the famous pidlure of the laft judgment is, drawn by Michael Angelo. After the fermon, one of the car- dinaisfaid mals: at the elevation, the pope came down from his feat, and kneeled before the altar. He had a mitre on, which was two or three times taken off, and put on again ; and fometimes he read in a book brought to him. When mals was finifh’d, canons, and the cardi¬ nals, with lighted tapers in their hands, made a proceflion before the pope, who carry’d the hoft under a canopy borne by fix men, and a cardinal went on each fide of him, holding up his robes; fix fwitzers with naked fwords went juft be¬ fore him. Thus they walk’d thro’ the Sala Regia into a little chapel curioufly drefs’d up, like lome of the lcenes we law at the Venetian opera, having the clouds fill’d with reprelentations of angels, [ 3 c. Here the pope ftay’d a while 5 and then returning with his mitre on his head into the hall, he thence retir’d with his cardinals into more private rooms. About this time the wunter weather began with frofts and cold rains. S. Sylvefter in Montibus is a very neat s. Sylref- church within, fupported by marble pil- ter * lars, and the roof well gilt i on the top of the high altar is written : Filia Patris, Mater Filii , Sponfa Spirit us Sanffi 3 ora pro nobis Sanil a Maria. Underneath is a handfome fhrine, where faints bones are preferv’d ; a defeent here leads into a fair old vault, where on a wall is inferib’d, Sedes S. Sylveftn Papce. On the north-fide of the church he is pictur’d in frefco 3 fitting in council with cardinals and bifhops, and a tranflation under-written out of Baronius' s annals into Italian , fignifying that this church was built where Fit us his baths flood, (which baths were repair’d by Frajaii)- y that it was the firft church the Chriftians had in Rome 3 and that Sylvefter liv’d here 10 years. This belongs to calceated Carmelites. S. Maria della Vittoria belongs to the s. Mam. dilcalceated Carmelites , it is a pretty church adorn’d with good pictures: on the right fide of the high altar is another, lately eredled by cardinal • • • ■ where are two curious figures of S. Fherefia , and an angel in white marble ; and on each fide are figures in bafto relievo of feveral that had been cardinals of the lame family. In this church hangs up a \ banner, which they fay was the king of Sweden's. In it is piClur’d the triple crown, the keys, a cardinal’s cap, a mitre, a prieft’s cap, [ 3 c. and this writ¬ ten, Extirpentur 3 and underneath this inlcription : Urbanus Georgius Refinetenfis in ConfliHu Pragenfi Peditum Dv.x 3 enfem quern pro fidei defenfione in eadern villoria gefta- verat Beatiffunx Vtrgini dicat [3 offert. A. D. 1630. From that viblory and others this church hath its name. Furkijh colours with Arabick charac¬ ters, kettle-drums and fwords hang up here. Prince Italy."] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 667 -prince Pa- Prince Paleftrines or Barbarities palace kftrine s jj a th a f a j r an d j ar g e hall, where are acc ' horfes of feveral nations painted, and the roof is curioufly pictured. Here are two noble ftair-cafes in the top open to the air, one fpiral and the other fquare ; fome old ftatues preferv’d at this place, and the figure of a lion in ftone. In the An o be- court-yard lies an Egyptian Obelisk l,sk - with hieroglyphicks, broken into three pieces. Within the palace are excellent pidfures, viz. a profpedf of M. Vefuvius , and the laft violent eruptions of it; the three kings of the eaft, by Cavaliero Cala- brefe • a little chapel painted i wfrefco, by Cortona ■, feveral prolpe< 5 ls, by monfieur Pufin. In the roof of the middle cham¬ ber is painted Providentia , with all the virtues, and the terreffrial globe, by Andrew Scaccbi ; God the Father is pic¬ tured in another roof, by Camifeo > the nativity, by Komanello ; a white marble boy lying on his back - } the marble heads of Urbanus and his mother Don Ant. Bar- berino , &c. Dea Natura ; the three modeft pictures of the Gratiae holding up a basket of flowers; the picture of a man 118 years old ; the flory of Lazarus , by Paulo Veroncfe■, a Venus , by Titian ; an Indian bedded painted with American birds: it was given by the king of Spain ; the picture of ’Tobias ; his foil and the angel; Adam and Eve hiding themfelves, by Dominico PaJJignano • Ahafuerus and Eftber , by Guerjtni Dajfanto ; faint Mary Magdalen with our Saviour in the garden, by Annib. Caruaggio ; the head of M. Aurelius with the laticlavia ; the heads of Pbilippus Arabs , Alius Ccefar , and Alius Hadrianus the picture of St. Sebaftians throwing into a privy ; M. Parnajfus painted on a roof in frefco , by Andrew Camijco ; a fine mofaic table ; Diogenes lying on a marble couch ; Latona with her children • Pbcsbus and Diana when they were hinder’d by rufticks, and dis¬ turb’d going into the water. Nov. 24. was a feftival to S. Barbara , protedlrix of foldiers; and therefore at caftle S. Angelo the great guns were dis¬ charg’d about break of day, and at the elevation of the hoft, when high mafs was laying. s. stefano. S. Stefano rotundo was the antients Templum Fauni , very remarkable for its form of building. There are two circles of pillars that have the difiances between them walled up. The outward circle hath 44 pillars, all Tuft an , except at I>, where are four ftriated pillars fomewhat taller than the reft, with Corinthian capi¬ tals ; and at E are four others, not ftri¬ ated, with Dorick capitals, juft oppofite to thofe at D, and taller than the reft. On thofe eight pillars the figure of a croft Skippon. is mark’d. A is the high altar, on each fide whereof is a tall ftone pillar B B, which fupport a wall that holds up the roof of the inner circle, confiding of 22 pillars, whofe diftanc#s are equal to thofe in the outward : C C are now brick pfla- fters (formerly pillars) almoft as high as B B. D |Cv \B A Vi / JS c This church is large, and the walls painted in frefco, by Nicolo Pomorancc. S. Pietro in Vinculis (on M. Efquilinus') s. Pietro, is an indifferent church, where we faw the (lately monument of Julius II. (whofe body is in S. Peter s) feveral ftatues well made, but the notableft is that of Mofes, done by Michael Angelo ; a pretty monument, ere&ed to Mananus Petrus Vecchiarcllius two curious marble ske¬ letons holding up his marble effigies. This church belongs to the Canonici Regolari di S. Salvatore. On the Torre di Conti , a low and fquare tower of brick, are thele verfes: I Lee Domus eft Petri valde devota Nicoli Strenuus ille fidus miles , fortiffmus atq .• Cernite qui vultis fecum banc tranfirc Quirites ghiam fort is intus minus compoftta for is Eft unquam nullus vobis qui dicere pofftt. S. Girolamo hath an high altar pidlure s. Giroia- of S. Hieronymus , much efteem’d, drawn m0 - by Dominichini j the chapel on the left hand is curioufly adorn’d with marble of different colours. S. Athanafio belongs to the Greeks , 5. Arha- w'here we oblerv’d their high altar, like naiio. that at Venice ; but Romifh mafles are alfo faid at four chapels here. One morning we faw the Greek finging-boys hearing the Latin mafs. The Greek Greek prieft fat behind the high altar fereen, church. and the chorifters fat in the middle of the church, who anfwer’d the prieft w'hen he read the Greek mafs, yet all the while read their Latin prayer-books, as the Roman Catholicks do at their mafles. We obferv’d fome things here which we did not fee done at Venice t One of the chorifters read in the liturgy, ftand- ing in the middle of the church with his face towards the altar, and the mals- prieft all the time flood with his back towards the altar, holding out the forepart of his cope. When the prieft came 66 8 A journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy. Prince Giuftinia- ano’a pa¬ lace. Skippon. came out with the bread on his head, he held in his left hand a glafi with white matter in it, which was thus cover’d with a round thing hung round with tafifels. Three times the finging-boys kneeled down; and when they rofe up, they bowed towards one another. About the conclufion of the fervice they late down and put caps on, like the Venetian noble¬ mens, and one of them read out of the liturgy, while the reft went by pairs, and took the pants benediftus from the prieft, who ftood at the altar door • they bowed very low to him, kifs’d his hand, took the bread, and bowed again w'hen they came back : the bread they carry’d away with them when the fervice was done. The prieft had a blue cope, and under that, on his right fide, hung a Iquare piece of' ' ' with a crofs wrought in the middle, after this fafhion. Novemb. 28. at night was very ftormy weather, with much lightning and thun¬ der. This day was a feaft for the con¬ ception of the virgin Mary . This palace is well furnifh’d with ftatues and pictures; fome of which we remark’d, viz. Herod's foldiers killing the children ; done by * ’ * * an Englifto- man : Our Saviour brought before Pilate , fitting at a table with a candle upon it; St. John Evan gel:ft, done by Domini- chini S. c tomafo, and a Cupid bending his body, are of Michael Angelo Caruaggio his doing. The Cupid is highly efteem’d, for which they fay a French embalfador offer’d 500 piftoles, and 100 for the copy. Our Saviour, drawn by Hannibal Caruaggio ; the apoftles painted by him and Albano ; a Venus, by Ittian , her face like that in the duke of Florence his gal¬ lery ; the beheading of S. Paul or S. Peter, by Lucas Saltarelli a Genoefe • Chrift's waffling the difciples feet, by Lanfranco ■ the baptizing of our Saviour, by Albano ; our Saviour’s beating the money-chan¬ gers, by Michael Angelo Caruaggio ; a Madonna , by Andrea del Sarto { Chrift lying dead in the virgin Mary's lap, paint¬ ed on a marble. The gallery is fill’d with ftatues, three ranks on a fide: among them we took notice of the Minerva worfhipp’d in her temple ; two huntft men, each with a horn in one hand, and a boar’s head under one arm, and a dog behind them - 3 Hercules ; a little model of the ftatue of M. Aurelius at the capi- tol ; Idea Vefta the heads of/ anus , Homer and Pindar ; a Harpy , a modeft Venus ; a goat; two feet of an old ftatue, which are very neat ; the heads of Nero , Alexander M. cardinal Giuftinano , of lapis Lydicis • Jupiter , a horfe’s, a bull’s and a deer’s head , a fair table of porphyry , a little figure of Nilus ; three Cupids tumbling and fieeping together, all of one ftone- Dea Natura. In a yard ftands a marble bafon with bafifo relievo figures on the out-fide. They fay, the very fculpture of this place coft 80,000 fcudi • This prince would fell them out of Rome , but the pope hath forbidden him. S. Pietro in careers , a fmall chapel, 5. Pietro where they fay he and S. Paul were im- i» carcere. prifon’d together, formerly call’d the Fullianum ; it is not far from Arcus Septimii , and is cut out of Mans Pala- tinus. We walk’d a mile out at Porta Pia , and s.Conftan- faw the church of Santa Conftantia , for- ftantia - merly a temple of Bacchus ; it is built round, and is left than S. Stefa.no Rotun- do. The niches BCD are three doors ; and at A probably was another, where the Sepulchrum Bacchi , or rather Ara Bacchi now' ftands. E is the high altar, which is a huge hollow ftone of porphyry wrought in baffo relievo, on the out-fide with Bacchi , gathering and treading of grapes : one end and one fide is the fame work with the other end and other fide ; a cover of ftone (porphyry) lies on the top. Between A D and D B, are 12 lefifer niches, where, it is likely, the Dii majorum Gentium ftood ; and now' there are the pictures of the 12 apoftles. A C . ^ *) * . J . J A The roof between thefe niches and the inner circle confiding of 12 double pil¬ lars, is arched, and painted with the de- feription of a Vindenia , He, beween each door’s fpace were five little windows in the roof, fome of which are now flopp’d up ; within the pillars is the cupola, which in former days was open on the top, but is now covered j in the round of it were 12 windows, three of which give light at prefent; and underneath them is painted the ftory of S. Conftantia ; in the upper part of the cupola is the picture of the refurredlion ^ in the pave¬ ment 3 Italy.) ment are pieces tombftones. S'. Agnefe. S.Agnefe’s is a pretty church j over the ifles and the weft end is a portico with old pillars and marble ballufters. This portico is even with the highway, yet the weft door is equd to a lower ground : at the high altar is a fine marble cupola, fupported by four neat porphyry pillars, eredled by Paul V. The figure of St. Agnefe Hands upon a curious pedeftal of one agat. The roof of this church is well carv’d in wood. There is a (lately defcent to this church from a garden be¬ longing to.monks. s.Sufanna. S. Sufanna s church hath a fiir front, in hath much frcfco painting. s Bcr . S. Bernardo is a large round building ; nardo. the cupola of it made within into neat (quares. This was one of the (even Torrioni (towers) belonging to Dioclefiau’s baths ; and Anno 1598, converted into a church by Catberina Sforza , countels of S. Fiore. s. Maria At Santa Maria Minerva are the Minem. monuments of Paul IV. and Urban VII. In the fteps without the church is car¬ dinal Cajetans- Behind the altar are two (lately tombs of two popes. Nigh the altar is the figure of our Savi¬ our, done by Michael Angelo. In a little chapel is a handfome tomb for Paul the IVth’s mother. Nigh the father general’s lodgings hang the pictures of famous men of the Dominican order. In one frame are thofe that have been faint¬ ed, and thofe of royal blood, who derive themfelves from the fame original with S. Dominic , among which are the late emperors. In another frame are all that have been popes and cardinals of this order. In the third, all the Magijlri S. Palatii ; and in a fourth, fuch as have been bifhops and archbilhops. Round the upper part of a gallery are painted all the generals of this order ; a picture of fuch as they fay were kill’d by the Albi- genfes ■, two brothers pi&ured, who were twins, profefs’d themfelves of this order at one time, and dy’d in one and the fame day ; the pidlures of famous nuns of this order ; the picture of a Dominican, who was a great necroman¬ cer, but by a (pedal favour of the Madonna was converted. A fair tomb of Dominic us Hifp. Comi- tis Bencventoni Films Cardinalis 1653. A curious mofaic pidlure of Ubaldinus over his monument • a fair black marble (lieet inferibed to Maria Kaggia Cbia. Autore Bcrnino. The Dominicans have a fermon here every afternoon. One Father Bar her, lecretary to the general of the order, is Vol. VI. a virtuofo, and has a garden filled with Skippon. variety of plants. December 9. The pope vifited the fe- ven churches. About this bme the great rains l'welled the river Tybur , which over¬ flowed its banks at Ponte Molls. S. Sabina was formerly Temp him Diaux , m. Avcn- on the Avcntine. tinus. S. Alexius and S. Bonifacius , antiently s. Alexius T’emplum Hercnlis Vi Ft or is , on the Avc 11- tine. At .... is a pillar erefted with a crucifix on it, in memory of Henry IV. of France , when he turned papift, four pillars fupport a cover over it, and on the pedeftal is this infeription, D. O. M. Clemente VIII. P. M. ad Memoriam Abfolutionis IJcnrici IV. Franc, et Navar. Beg. CbriftianiJJimi gh F. A. D. xv. Kal. OA. cidioxcv. Saturday morning, 10th December , about three and four of the clock, we faw the comet which was at the foot ACowet - of Crater , and blazed with a large and long tail towards Cor. Hydrx. S. Eufebius’s church (part of the ruins s.Euie- of Gordianus’s baths) belongs to the bius. Celeftines , who are habited in white with a black Patientia , i. e. a lacinia or tip¬ pet down before and behind: we here met with Carlo Manelli bifhop of Ter- moli (a place not far from Naples') who difcourfed freely with us, and fomewhnt difcontentedly about the prefent pope Alexander VII. S. Praffide hath a little chapel dedi- - r .T > raflido» cated to S. Zeno , over the door whereof is written a prohibition that no woman fliould enter there under the penalty of excommunication, but we faw women kneeling at the door ; the pillar which they fay our Saviour was (courged at, is kept here. S. Pudentiana hath a well in it, where s.PuJen- they fay the blood of martyrs is kept. tiana - Here is a chapel adorn'd with curious relievo work. Prince Colonna’s palace (who is great Prince Co- conftable of Naples ) is fituated as we onn3J /><*- were told) on the higheft ground of lact ’ Rome ; in the gardens arc confiderable ruins of Nero’s Cafa Aurea , viz. manv large rooms one above another, under the fide of a hill, and part of tw r o Cor- ridori , which had each three galleries, that (they fay) went to the Rotunda. Here flood a tower whence, fome guefs, Nero viewed the burning of the city ; 8 H it Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 669 of the antient chriftian 670 A Journey thro ’ Part cj : the {Italy Skippon. S. Bartho¬ lomew. Pons Fa- britii. Villa Far- neie. The Ati- gujlines library. it is now thrown down. By fome it is cal- gether on Pietra Paragons-, two little led Frontifpicturn Neronis by others^;;;- figures of old comedians with masks on - 3 plum Suits. Vaft (tones lie on the ground, a brafs horfe reprefenting him flay’d, and which have cornices very well carv’d, difeovering all the outward veins and A cafcata or fall of water in this garden, mulcles; a marble head found in thisgar- In the palace is a narrow gallery hung den, under which is written Cicero-, it is with pictures, among which was Europa very lively, and is highly elteem’d. Ceres-, done by one of the Albani. Nigh the the curious half figures of Brutus and hall door is fix’d in the wall, a large Portia , of one piece ; a dead fheep hang- head of Medufa in porphyry. ing on a (tone. In the garden a great S. Bartholomew is in the infula, and number of fmall iquare monuments to belongs to the Francifcani minores -, here keep afhes in, having covers over them, was formerly Temp lam Asfculapu -, in the and have fhort inferiptions; they porch of this cloiiter is a done that was are thus fhap’d. \Ve law two inferib’d to Simon Magus , as many think, pleafant fountains, and an artifi- but we did not fee any fuch imeription. cial rainbow, at one of them when the At Pons Fabritii are three Hones, fun fhin’d; the datue of Andromeda ; each carv’d with four heads, which give Apollo flaying of Martins , both made by the bridge the name of Ponte di 4. Capi. Paulas Oliver ins. In a grove are the Vila Paniefe is on the Palatine hill, figures of leveral wild animals • a fair an- where are pretty gardens, and on the cient fepulchre, having the mules and top an aviary ; many old ruins and ylpcllo in relievo abouc it ; towards the grotte about the garden. top of the front are two heads, over The Augudines library is called Biblio- which is written, theca Angelica , from one Angelo Rocca of this order j it is doted with many books L. PI. VARIVS ALANTEROS out of Holjlenius’s library. Two friars APPIA VLMYRSINE. always attend to deliver out what books are delired by any drangers, w ho have An Egyptian obelisk in two pieces, with oMhk. freedom to dudy here. Over the door hieroglyphick Iculpture in the upper is written, T on fc\c[Mvon. part ; the head of Alexander M. his co¬ in the Augudines church is this in- lodus -, under it is written, feription under a brafs head. D. 0 . M F. Onuphrio Panvinio Veronen. Eremites Augujiiniano , viro ad omnes et Roma- nas et Ecclejiafticas Anti quit ate s e te- nebris eruendas nato , Aha Alex and. Earn. Card. Vice can. in Sic ilam prafecu- tas alisnijjimo et fibi et hiforix tempore obiit 18. Kal. Apr. mdlxviii. prx- claris mv.ltus et perfeffiis et iuchoatis induftrix fine monument is reldlis Vix. An. xxxix. Amici honoris can ft po- fuerunt . The marble figures of St. Anne , the virgin Mary , and of our Saviour here, made by Sanfovino. The pidure of a prophet by Raphael Urbin , and reputed one of the bed paintings in Rome, we heard ofhere, but could not fee it. villa Mat- Vila Matt be i isfituated on M. Ccclius-, thar:- here we faw two curious tables of ori- m.c dms. enta j granate, the marble head of a Sa¬ bina ; Apollo's datue; the datues of Agrippina and Amicitia , with her hand upon her bread ; the marble figure of M. Aurelius looking off on one fide of his horfe ; the datue of Antoninus ; a large table of mofaick work, wherein is a fair piece of Alabafler Cotoneus ; three white marble Cupids lleeping and tumbling to- Cyriacus Matthxus Alexandri Magni Caput ex Aventinis minis effojfum injuria temperum non- nib i l corruption antiques fornix et nito- ri reftituit , Vetuflatis amatonbus j'pec- tandum propofuit. Villa Montalto afforded us the fight of villa thefe curiofities in two palaces; the head Montali#, of Pyrrhus -, the datue of a gladiator in black polififid marble ; the datue of L. Sfuinffius with his plough-fhare by him ; a mofaick table with Sardonian agate, which is like alabader-cotoneus ; the painted dory of Alexander M. the da¬ tue of Germanicus , with the l'culpture’s name, KAss^iem Ka io^.vcvt A QnvAof Agricultura made of Marmcbigio ; a marble Bacchus on a tyger ; Nero Juve- nis with his harp ; painting in frej'co of many of the antiquities of Rome , and the ereding of obelisks, by Sijhis V. who built this Villa -, the pidure of S. John Baptijl made by cavalier Pomerancie ; S- Magalena and Sujanna drawn by Teren- tius ; a marble head of Siftus V. and his fider’s pidure ; a white marble head of cardinal Alexander Per rot, by Bernini; the head of Alexander Jiivents -, the roof of the library is painted with old philo- fophers ; a cabinet fet with precious dones ; Italy.~] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 671 flones ■, a landskip in marble, reprefent- ing a man’s head. In the garden lie bowls (within a box) which had chains fattened to them, that forced water out to wet the lookers on ; large walks with tall cyprefs trees, and many water works. A flatue of n omHomvf • a ftatue fitting on a cufhion ; ceremonies at a Roman marriage, and facrifices to Priapus of re¬ lievo work ; the heads of Gita , Cara- calla and Antoninus puts j a brals ape that was an Egyptian idol ; the picture of David cutting off Goliab’s head, done by Daniel Volterrano ; a dance of naked boys detigned by Raphael Urbin , but painted by Fontagna a French woman 3 the marble head of Scipio ; the picture of Mars and Venus catch’d in Vulcan s net ; Venus killing Adonis ; a piece of batfo relievo in white marble ; the head of Drufus i a profpedl drawn by Anni- bal Caruaggio ; two little boys repre- lenting S. John Baptifi and our Saviour, drawn by Julio Romano ; the heads of a pope and a cardinal, which appear at a near diflance long and unfhap’d, but looking thro’ a hole in a board on each fide, they are well proportioned • little brats figures of the Florence centaur, the boar, Mercury , and the ravithing of the Sabins , Hercules and Anteus ; a ruftick catching birds with a lamp and a net ; two horfes ; the lion killing the horfe ; two bulls ■ a lion killing an ox the cen¬ taur carrying away Dejanira ; a curious table of oriental alabafler ; birds and trees pictured in very fmall mofaic work • a lomucelle table, which is of a greenifli colour ; a marble Martins tied to the flump of a tree to be flay’d ; the flatues of Per feus and Diana ; a monument with relievo figures, and the temple of Janus , made when the temple of Janus was fhut. Many white peacocks at this Villa. The cardi- On Chrifimas eve N. S. the cardinals nalsat were invited to fupper at the pope’s pa- f il PP er - ]ace, and all flrangers were freely ad¬ mitted to be prelent ; before fupper there was excellent vocal and inflrumen- tal mufick in a little room ; the differ¬ ent fhap’d napkins were firll taken away, and more ordinary ones brought, then the cardinals (who were but 14) put off their upper garments of fcarlet, which they gave to their gentlemen, and fat down in their red filk caffocks with their lquare caps on, and every one had his napkin tied about his neck; great flore of fweet meats were placed as inter- meffes, which they gave away to flanders by ; every cardinal had his mefs by him¬ felf, ferv’d up in fmall difhes, which were lerv’d up but one at a time ; when they called for drink, four glafs crufes, Skipfon. three with wine, and one with water were brought together ; Siaitzers flood at each end of the table. At midnight there was good mufick at the Apollinart. On Chrifimas day we went to S. Maria The pope Maggiore , where the pope came in ca- carrle ‘ lon valcade, attended by the cardinals in their polders. red hats. W hen he came to the church, he was carried in an embroidered chair on a bier, fupported by 12 men with red habits ; on each fide of him was car¬ ried a great fan made of white peacock’s tails ; he had his triple crown on, the three golden crowns being fix’d on a cone of filver. Trumpets founded at his entrance, and before him went a rich black cap wrought with filver, and two maces went on each fide of it ; next followed two mitres and the crofs-bear- ers, and immediately before him came the cardinals two and two together. He was brought to the chapel on the louth fide w-here the manger (they fay) our Saviour was laid in, was expos’d to view, they let him down, and his triple crown being taken off, he made his devotions to the manger; thence he was hoifled up again upon mens fhoulders, and car¬ ried backward with his face towards the relique, and then brought behind the high altar, where he placed himfelf on a high throne at the further end, with the cardinals feated round, while cardinal Francis Barberino with his mitre cele¬ brated the mafs. When the pope re¬ ceived the facrament, the people kneel’d, and a loud choir of voices lung, which was often repeated. When the mafs was near concluding, 4 vafl tapers were carried up lighted, and two flood one on each fide of the pope, while he addreffed himfelf nigh the altar. All finifhed, the pope went again to the manger, and return’d home with the fame folemnity as he came, only the cardinals went back in their coaches. This morning the caflle of S. Angelo fired its guns. December 26. A fludent of the Englifij jefuites college made a latin fpeech be¬ fore the pope, which we were not pre- fent at. We faw the ruins of Maufolxum Au- MaufoU- guftiy which is well pictured in Roma um Au- Antiqua ; on the top of it is a garden be- longing to the palace of the Fioravanti • within the walls are large vaulted rooms, and round about upon them are many gardens, whence is an afeent to a walk round another wall that riles from the inner fuperficies of the lower wall. 2 Vefpafians 67 2 A Journey thro ’ Part of the {Italy. Skipfon. Vefpafians tomb at S. Saba on the Aventine. A little chapel, where they lay S. 'John was put into a cauldron of oil. It is fituatcd on M. Cxliolus , and near it is a great piece of an old brick building. s. Maria S. Maria in Campitelli hath this in- in Cam- fcription on the front, SacrisDsipanc Na- talib. and under one {latue is written Deipane Sponfus , and under another Dieparce Pater. This place belongs to the Chierici della Madre di Dio , vulgar¬ ly called Preti di Luca. .s Maria S. Maria inviolata is not far from the Inviolata. Collegium Romanum in the Corfo ; which hath a fair front with a portico one over another, built by the prefent pope Alex¬ ander VII. In the lower porch is a paf- fage down to the place where S. Paul lived two years, and there is kept the pillar he was (courged at. This inlcrip- tion here, well drawn ; an old head of YlmtLoiuof ; a gallery roof rarely well painted by Annibal Caruaggio. Vefpafian's Congitis ispreferv’d here. The roofs of little rooms curioufly painted. At the Rotunda thefe epitaphs were tranferibed. Z). 0 . M. tfadceo Zuccaro in oppido Divi Angeli ad ripas Metauri Nato Pitlon Eximio Ut patria moribus , piftura , Raphaeli Urbinati Simillimo , et ut ille natali Die , et pofi annum Septimum et tri- geJim inn Vita fundi o^ it a tumulum eidem proximum Federicus Fratn Suaviff. Mcerens pof. anno Chnftanx Sal. MDLXVI. Map?a quod hi magno timuit Raphaele peraque Tad&o in magno pertimuit Genetrix. Alex. VII. Pont. Max. locus antiqva wie¬ ner at ione facer et nobilis in quo S. Paulum Apoftolum dm moratum , non fe¬ me l una cum ipjo F.cclefix capite S. Petro de rebus Chriftianx fidei delibe- raffe ubi S. Lucam Flange lift am et feripfiffe et Deip. Virgmis imagines de- pinxifje jam inde a prnnis temporibus traditum congeftu terrx oltm deprejfus atq y inaccejfits facili fealarum defeenfu , irnmiffoq ; feneftris lumine Pervius fac¬ tus perpurgatus exornatufq y pio ftdeli- um cultui reftitutus eft. Anno Sal. MDCLXI. Englifh je- December 19. Was a feftival (olemni- fuits col- fed by the Englifh jefuites in memory of le Z e - itbomas Becket , whofe picture with a hatchet on his head, (lands in their par¬ lour ; it was given them by the earl of Arundel. This college is but a mean building. The jefuits have feven colleges in Rome. Palazzo Palazzo Farnefe , or Palazzo di Duca , Farnefe. is a (lately building, where the French ambalTador iodged ; we (aw here the fa¬ mous llatue of a bull by Apollonius and tTail'd feus ; the naked marble figure of Auguftus on horfeback ; the (lone figure of a goat; many old heads great and (mall. In the hall is the (latue of Alex¬ ander Farnefe treading on a naked man and woman, with a Vidtoria (landing by him; in one room very good frefco painting. In other rooms the French king’s, the queen’s, the queen mother’s, monfieur’s, and princels Henrietta'& , a (mail (latue of Meleagers in red (lone; an Egyptian idol; a picture of a woman Tinging, and a fellow playing on a lute, D. O. ill Raphaeli Sandiio Joan. F. Vrbinati Pidlon eminentiff *veterumq ; xmulo Cujus fpirantes prope imagines fi Contemplere naturae atq y artis foedus facile infpexeris Julii II. et Leon is X. Pontt. Maxx. pidturx Et Architcdi. operibus gloriam auxit V. A. xxxvii. integer integros jftuo die natus eft et eo effe defiit vii. id- Apr ills mdxx. Hie ftus eft Raphael^ timuit qtio j'ofp’te vinei Rerum magna parens & moriente raor't. D. 0 . M. Flaminio Vaccx Sculptori Roman, fijhfi in operibus qux fecit Nufquam ft hi fatisfecit. D. O. M. Perino Bonacurfto Vogue Florent. ftbui ingenio et arte clariff. egregios pertnul- tos pidtores plaftas fere omnes fuperavit. Catharines Penn a Conjugi Lavmia Bona- curfia Patri , Jofephus Cincius Belga Socero clanff. et opt. pofuerunt. Vixit an. 46. in. 3. d- 29. obit 13. Kal. No- vemb. Anno Chrifti 1547. Certantem cum te fecum natura nice. Nafty fpitting out of the boxes upon the people in the pit. cardinal Jan. 12- At Chief a Nova di S. Philip- diniT/a®-* Nerio, cardinal Aldobrandini s dead iTftlte S i)i body was expoled to publick view in the Chiefs middle of the church. His face was na- Novr. ked, and his cap laid on his feet ; two perlons on each fide held banners, and in each fide the nave of the church was a row of lighted torches the church was hung round with mourning, and an innumerable number of efcutcheons. The cardinals were preient at even-long, and fat nigh the high altar; one always gave the cardinals a fign when to Hand up, and when to kneel. About this time four perfons in one family were poifon’d at Rowe. Mich. An- We vifited Michael Angelo Ricci , a gdoRic- learned prieft, and were civilly enter¬ tained by him ; his library is ftored with ielect books, among which all mathe¬ matical authors ; he is efteemed a good mathematician : He told us fomewhat of his would be printed at Florence. He was fcholar to Torricellius , and hath great correfpondence and friendfhip with learn¬ ed men. He lhewed us an Italian com¬ mentary on a Latin Virgil , done by one Venuta. Aftronowia rcfhtuta , by, one Levera a Rowan. S. Ambrofe and S. Auguftine , printed at Bafil by Amber- bachius 1492. He told us one Father Raynaltus an oratorian at the Chiefa No¬ va , is a learned hiftorian, and has in fe- veral volumes continued Baronius's an¬ nals. He gave us a recommendatory letter to Father Honoratus Fabri a French jduit, one of the penitentiaries at S. Peter s, efteemed more learned than Ktr- cber. Giovanni Giovanni Pietro Bellon is a skilful an- lHVi bquary, whom we vifited, and law in his muiaeum thefe particulars; a head drawn by Titian , and two other heads, one by Tindtoret , and the other by Ca- ruaggio. A little dog by Vandyke. The figure of a man and woman fitting, a baffo relievo piece in the ancients Creta. A ghiadriga running in the Circus , and the chariot overthrown, with a man la¬ menting Handing by it, are in two relievo pieces of the fame Creta. This inferip- tion on them, Annus Arefcx. In this antiquity we obferved the driver’s being girt with cord leveral times about the waift, the Ova Call oris , Sc. on the Metx , the dolphins on the temple of Neptune , the running round the Metx * which ex¬ plained that in Horace , Meta 7; fervidn cxc it ala rotis. A little brals vclfel (hap d i«!to the head of IPs, in which they brought water to the lacrifice. A large . Voi,. VI. velfd of earth painted after the manner the Greeks call Monocroma , there being no fhadows, and only one colour, and fimple lines. Many fuch veflfels were found about Surrentum , nigh Naples. This was pictured round with the old manner of being lerved at the baths. See Be lion's defeription of it in his Note delle mufei , Sc. An Aroftoliuni fhap’d like that on the baffo relievo at S. Laurence's church. A brals Stngil thus fhap’d. A Patera dedicata wrought towards the bottom. A Patera , wherein were engraven figures of men, and in Greek characters was written Mercurius S Alexeutrom. A brafs ring with a medal (inferib’d Tene we ne fugiam , Scl) that hung about a ilave’s neck. A marble re¬ lievo with Silvanus, having a falx in his right hand, and a pine branch in his left. Sc. deferibed in Cafalius, and To¬ ma fuius de Donariis , c. 26. A Meda- glion (brafs) of Caligula. Several lacri- ficing inftruments preferved very entire. A Prxfericulum of metal, having two fnakes made into the handle, which was probably ufed in facrifices either to Apollo or Atfculapius. A Prxfericulum curioufly varnifhed with green. A piece ofcryftal cut into eight angles, on the upper part of it were hieroglyphical figures, and below them Agypttan .cha¬ racters. A Patera for the blood. A brafs lpoon to take up incenle withal, made thus. A little brafs figure of Hercules , and another of Jupiter. Two lmafl figures of Littores in brafs, having their gar¬ ments fattened to the right fhoulder with a Fibula \ in their left hand they carried the Fafces. A 1 'mall brals figure of For- tuna , with a long Trabahs in*; her fight hand, and a Conweopix in her left ; this explains that in II,race, Sxva necefjitas clavo trabali. A fhield of brafs broader than a man’s hand, whereon was the head of Bacchus in relievo, having his forehead bound with a Fafcia, and two rofcs fix’d on it againft di unkennels and a crown of vine-leaves on his head • on the right fide of him was a Patera , and •on the left a Phallus. A brafs armilla worn by the ancient chriftians, having a crnls on it. A marble ftonc made with five perforated Radii , called by Pliny 8 L Lycb- 682 Skippon. A Journey thro' Tart of the [.Italy. Lychnites , which fervedas a lamp. Fibulae antique , or Attire , defcribed in Cafa- lius de ritibus antiquis. A rare and cu¬ rious little figure of an emprefs in brafs. A large brafs lamp with a Labarum Con- Jlantini in the handle, and a Corona. Ci- vica of oak-leaves and acorns round about it. A lamp infcribed Palladi Vittrici defcribed alfo in Cafalius. A lamp with a griffin devoted to Apollo. Another with a fea-horfe’s head, to Nep- tune , and one with a vine-leaf to Bac¬ chus. On the handle of another lamp A and a A brafs figure of Mercury ha¬ ving a Cornucopia in his hand. A little brafs lamp with a Greek infcription to Dianne, viz. ^tlt^Ai [ 3 c. dedicated by .Eutyches praefeCt of Melitopolis. Erizzo in his book of medals, tranfiates his name Faelix , which Sig. Bellcri will not allow of. A Votum for a fore finger’s re¬ covery, made of brafs, and fiiap’d thus, q -p A fpoufe veil’d, with her friends about her in relievo. The head of " in black ^Ethiopian marble, harder than porphyry, and feems like iron at firft fight. 1 he cafe of the upper part of one of Pietro della■ Valle's mummies. An earthen vcfTel dedicated to the mufes, which are painted round the outfide. A fair brafs ’Janus. A brafs figure of young Hercules killing the ferpent. A little brafs Tripus. Two feet of another Tri- pus having two figures C Bacchantes ) well exprefs’d. Two large mafques of brafs, and one fmall one. A fmall figure of Sphinx , triplex Iftdis figura, de¬ fcribed in Cafalius. An earthen lamp to Serapis with the figure of Bacchus on it. A marble head of Serapis , which is like Jupiter s only, the dividing the hair be¬ fore diftinguifhes this from that. A brafs figure of a Pocillator , that ufed to at¬ tend the emperor, [ 3 c. at meals. An earthen lamp with the figure of an em¬ peror, a ' Pocillator , and a globe, [ 3 c. Another lamp with a dying foldier held up by another, and feveral arms all in relievo upon the lamp. The Pelt a thereon was thus fhap’d, A lamp with the figure of Promethe¬ us. A lamp with Aternitas fymboli- cally reprefented in a relievo head radi¬ ated like the fun, and the moon on his breaft. Sig. Bellori fhewed us fome me¬ dals with Aiternitas , that are printed by llemelarius. An earthen lamp with ob- fcene poftures, as the Spintrioe , [ 3 c. One of the Clavi trabales of the Rotunda. A Simpulum thus made. Two brafs and fharp things he knew not the ufe of, fhap’d like chifels thus. A piece of a red earthen veffel 7 7 which had been curioufly adorn’d \ / with the relievo figures of the mufes, the upper parts of two are pre- ferved, over one in Greek characters is written, ©**/*. Pieces of the ancient Purpura , of a dirty reddifh colour. An old brafs figure of the Madonna. A little brafs figure of S. Peter , in the pofture of bleffing with his right hand, and in his left holding thele two letters alluding to Ferte nomen rneum. A fmail ivory head of Helena thefe laft things were found in the Ccnnitera of the ancient chriftians. Aurum textile of the ancients is gold round wire, which confutes Ferrarius his con¬ trary opinion. A fmall brafs figure of Dens Lunus. A brafs head of Deus Ebbo , having bulls horns in his forehead; this was worfhipped by the Neapolitans. Se¬ veral Bullee , fome made like round boxes in which they carried Amulita. In a marble ftatue of a Puer prcctcxta- tus , we obferved a Bulla hanging at his breaft. Priapi , [ 3 c. worn by the Roman women. Sig. Bellori told us the letter T was efteemed by the Agyptians Sig- num falutis. Some triangular Bullae * whence the cuftom of Agnus Dei , being worn now among papifts. Old rings with keys. A Teffera bofpitahtatis, being a long fquare ftone. Antient feals with letters of names. A little and long fquare piece of brafs being one of the ancient Sortes ,whereon was written ,Faufte Vivas. A relievo head of Silenus. A ftone thus infcribed. LABVCCIVS HERMES SIBI ET TYCHAE L. SVAE AB TITVLO SVSVM OL. XIX. An ancient brafs weight with two faces on one fide. A very fmall ftone weight. A ftone weight with ex auttoritate writ¬ ten on it. Anubis an Agyptian idol of red ftone. An idol with the face of a monkey. The piC£eciiis Benedi&ine nuns, where we took notice j n Tmn~ of a rich fhrine, and of an old tomb of Jlwtri. an Englijh cardinal * under his effigies is written, D. O. M. Adam. Anglo Fit. S. Cxctha presbytero Cardinali Epifcopatus Londmenfis perpetuo Adminiftratori , Iutegritate , Doffrina Et religione preejlanti Ob lit die xv. Augufti mcccxcvii. The king of England's arms, and on each fide the cardinal’s ( [viz. a red crofs charged with an eagle in a field argent) are on the monument. In the porch of 684 A Journey thro Skippon. this church cardinal Barberin has fet up the old cover of this tomb-flone, about which are thefe verfes in odd characters. Artibus ifte Pater famofius in omnibus Adam ‘Tbeolvgus [ummus Cardtonalis eram Anglia cm patriam^ ‘Titulum dedit iJlaBcate Edes Cecilie morfq ; fiuprema locum. mccclxxxxvii. Mcnfe Septembr. ceremony "Jan. 23. Being Candlemas day, St. N. WJ ^ d ; e 'at the great chapel in the pope’s palace, cardinal Antonio Barberino feated before the high altar, diflributed wax candles to the cardinals and others; the pope ufed to perform this ceremony, but he was indilpofed this day ; fome faid he counterfeited himfelf ill, becaufe he would not give audience to cardinal Orfini , who was going into Prance for an Abbatia the king intended to bellow upon him, which cardinal Aldobrandini had. This Orfini within thefe fix months came over to the French^&.\ox\. After the candles were diflributed, the cardinals made a procefliion in the great hall, carrying every one a lighted taper, having their mitres and copes on ; before them went feveral bilhops with mitres, and among them one without a mitre, who, I think, was an Armenian bifhop. The government lee in my collection of governments. Cuftoms, When the pope dies, every houfe is Rome obliged to fet out a light every night j which cullom is ftri&ly obferved all the time the Sede vac ante. The bells at the Campidoglio are never rung but at the pope’s death. When a new one is cho- ien, his friends and relations ranfack and carry away what they can find in his palace. One had been formerly elected pope, but he wanted thole fingers ufual- ly lifted up when the people are bleffed. Cardinal Efie is altogether of the French faction, w r ho fome few years fince gathered 800 men againft the pope in the city of Rome. Six white loaves now Ibid for one ju- lio: In Urban VUIth’s time, 18 were lold for the lame price, which might be from the price of corn. Buffalo's are ufed in waggons, and they are guided by a ring that is faftned in their noftrils. Leti informs us, that the pope is al¬ ways guarded with 50 Switzers in two companies, 12 light horfemen, and four lances at leaft. That the cardinal nephew fubferibes letters di ordine y and the patents of fome governors 5 but the pope ftibfcribes pa¬ tents of legat9, Ulc. Part of the {Italy. That the pope’s court confills of about 350 perfons, befides guards. II Mae fir 0 di St alia wears a fword. That the pope’s armories are at Fer- rara , Bologna , Ca. S. Angelo , the Vatican , Ancona and Ravenna. He has 300 workmen for making of arms at c tivoli. That the pope may have about 60000 foldiers, horle and foot. That in all expences the pope fpends not above a million and a half of feudi per annum ; his daily revenue is lome- what above 20000 lcudi. This pope Alexander VII. has laid on 14 new gables, and they fay it is ne¬ ver the cullom of the fucceffors to eafe the people of thole laid on before their time. This pope is a Sene fie, his name Fab ins Chi fins , he was legat in Germany, and hath related his travels in Latin verle, among many other poems of his: he is very careful of his health, never going abroad without the advice of his phy- ficians, who told him the air of St. Peter's would be bad for him this winter, and therefore it was reported the canoniza¬ tion of a Spanijh and a French faint was deferred. Don Mario is the pope’s bro¬ ther, whole palace was repairing nigh Antoninus's pillar. Cardinal Padrone Fab. Ckigi is his nephew (Ton to Don Mario ) who is counted a lover of women, and has, they fay, been infeCted with the French pox. Don Agofiino is another of his nephews, and ion to Don Mario. The pope’s Staffieri or fervants in the fummer, wear red filk coats made like the Spanijb foldiers, and in the winter they wear red velvet. The captain of the guard of Switzers is always nigh the pope, and is privately armed with pillols. Don Agofiino is prince of Fame fie , a place in the ecclefiaftical Hate, given in ex¬ change by the duke of Parma. Don Sigifrncndo is his younger brother, and is a knight of Malta , and is defigned to be cardinal the next creation. Cardinals, when they ride incogniti in their coaches, order the talfels to be ta¬ ken off their horfes heads, and then the coaches of inferior perlons are not to Hop as they pafs by. Dukes and princes have the like tafiels about their horles, and their coachmen fit on velvet cufhions. The title of Altezza , i. e. highnefs, is taken away from cardinals that are prin¬ ces, and all have the title of Eminenza. Cardinals pull off their hats or caps on¬ ly when they drink the pope’s health, but ambaffadors Hand up. Cardinals fwear in the pope’s hand, but governors, ffic. that are not cardinals, fwear in the Camerlengo's (chamberlain’s) hand. The Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 68 $ The chief families in Rome, are the Colonne , Orjini , Cow?/ and Savelli. Widows are here diftinguifhed as at Flo - rme, by their great fleeves ; young mar¬ ried women and maids do wear curled hair, which they defire may be of a reddifla co¬ lour ; they wear little farthingales,and have fhort fleeves behind them thus fhap’d, 1 and before and behind hangs down I a lacinia. Young women never walk s the ftreets without their mother or fome old woman at their heels, as young boys, Tons of gentlemen, Sc. have always priells attending them. The women wear much of ordinary blue, red, Sc. druggets. Great number of courtezans live in Rome , fome of them live fplendidly, but none can ride in coaches without licence, and then the curtains muft be drawn : they dare not come where the facramenc is, or where any feftival is kept ■ and about Cbrijlmas , the men are ftricftly forbidden to vifit them, under a penalty that reaches both. Thefe and hereticks, as they call the proteftants, are buried in a place by themlelves without Porta del Popolo. Burdajlies are kept by noblemen, and, as fome fay, by cardinals. The king of Spain’s embafifador, on St. Peter’s day, prefents the pope with a Neapolitan horfe, and 5000 feudi. Great linnen is ufually dried on iron bars, that run from houle to houfe crofs the ftreets, which the people had rather do than pay gables for carrying it out and in at the city gates. Every parifh prieft is obliged once a year to bring to the vicegerent the names of all that live in the parifh. Variety and plenty of wines at Rome , as Vino Albano (which is moft common and is pleafant, of a whitifh colour) Greco , Vernatico , Monte Fiafcone , Monte Portio , Sc. that which is well tailed they fay is Boccato. Porters are not fuffered to carry bur¬ dens on feftival mornings. The carts are narrow and long, and made defeending towards the horle. Auctions or outcries are made here as at Venice. Two teftons, e. about three (hillings,is a phyfician’s fee for a vifit He is obliged to acquaint the parifh prieft when he fees his patient in danger. If a heretick, i. e. a proteftant, will give leave before his breath be quite out of his body, that but a piece of an hoft mav be put into his mouth, he fhali have the ufual fo- lemnities of a burial, if not, they fay, the sbirri, 1. e. fellows, who go up and down as a guard or watch, muft carry him to his grave. Vol. VI. Dead bodies are dreft up in cloths, Skippon. and laid on biers (feldom in coffins) and carried with their hands and faces naked. Monachi di Rifchatto , called fo from their redeeming of (laves, are white bare- footed friars, who wear a red and blue crofs on their breafts. We obferved in fome parts of the city, many country fellows (who probably flood to be hired) in their ruflet cloaks. About Cbrijlmas time, many forts of cakes and bread are fold, one fort of cake is called pan-giallo , like our plumb- cake ; others are of other colours. Rouzacba is a play in the ftreets, three or four playing together, winding a cord feveral times about a trundle, and he that throws it furtheft, wins. Thefe famous painters now in Rome : Painters. Pietro di Cortona Berritmi • Cavaliero Calabrefe CarluZZo , a young man ; monfieur Pufin , an old Frenchman j Salvator Rofa ; Mar. di Fiore ; Siege - brandon ; a Burgundian Jefuit paints battles j Filippo Louri , makes landskips and figures ; Cavaliero Bernmo y is an excellent fculptor. We lodg’d fome time, at our firft penfion, in the houfe of a SpaniJJj cava - liero of S. Jago y who wore a red crofs on his fhoulder: He told us, that his countrymen always dealt cards to the right hand : that four or five leagues from Barcelona , at a mountain call’d Bicque , amethyfts are found ; and in the moun¬ tains fouthward of Madrid , is cryftal: at Gualdel canal was a filver mine, fufficient for the building of the ef- curial it was afterwards flopp’d up by water. This winter there were at Rome two brothers, titular dukes of Brunjviick j the younger was a papift, and the other a lutheran, marry’d to ’ ' * ’ the prince Palatine’s filler, her husband is the bifhop of Halberftadt. Moft of the canons there are Roman Catholics, who choofe one time a Lutheran, and the next time a Catholic bifhop. Prince Colonna en¬ tertain’d them with a fcaft of four difhes, each coiling 200 crowns We obferv’d in the market all forts of birds to be fold, and venifon, wild boar, porcupine, Sc. Moft of the hogs in thefe parts arc black. When they intend to kill them, they drive them through the ftreets, and thruft fharp irons of their long ftaves into them, before they kill beeves and calves, they bait them with dogs in the ftreets. Six poft-houfes in Rome. 1. That for Venice . 2. Milano and the 'tramontane countries. 3. Ligorne and Genoa. 4. Florence. 5. Naples and 8 M Sicily 68(5 A Journey thro' Tart of the {Italy. Skippon. Sicily. 6 . The eccleliaftical ftate, where twice a week letters are expected by crowds of people. The water we walh’d with every morn¬ ing, in the coldeft weather, feem’d as if it had been a while let over the fire, it was fo warm. Limoncelle , are little lemons, which lome pickle up. Monte di Monte di Pieta is an office where any P.eta. one ma y depofite their houfhold huff, plate, jewels, &c. and take up money upon them ; and afterwards may have them again, allowing fome intereft. The ufual time of leaving goods here is for a year and a day ; but oftentimes they re¬ new it from year to year. Noblemen, &c. when they intend to be ablent a good while, think this the lafeft place to lodge their plate, &c. in. Rome is difprais’d by fome, and prais’d by others. It is a proverb faid of Rome , J'amais ni Cheval ni homme . N’amenda dialler a Rome. Alfo, Chi Bejlia a -a a Roma Beftia rHorn a. Likewife, Roma quanta fait ipfa ruina docet. iTerr arum Dea Gentiumq ; Roma Cui par eft nihil , nihilq ; fecundum. Rome tousjours a voulu avoir le premier rang far toutes les autres villes du monde anciennement en vertu , maintcnant en vices & mefchancctez abominables. Voyage duD. de Rohan. The Jefuits have a treafury in Italy , The j t - France , Germany , and Spain : In Italy l uits - at Naples , Florence , Mantua , and Rome. Six colleges make a cuftodia ; and five cuftodise a province. Every college puts into the private treafury two per Cent. and half that goes into the treafury of the cuftodia ; and the cuftodia puts 4 of that into the provincial treafury ; and the provincial treafury puts in -j into the general treafury. Priefts when they are ordain’d have the fore-finger and thumb of each hand blefs’d and crofs’d by the bilhop ; and with thofe four they can only touch the hoft. If one of them Ihould be cut off, kftc. another muft be confecrated: and we were told, when they are degraded and put out of orders, the tops of thole thumbs and fingers muft be cut off. Princes, 8 cc. in Italy. In Italy are thefe princes and commonwealths that have abfolute power, according to Leti. Alexander VII. Several families of — Gonzaga 1. 2. Philip IV. king of Spain 3. Carolus Emanuel - 4. Ferdiri. II. --- 5. Carol. II. -- 6. Ranutius II. - 7. Almericus- 8. Sigifm. Fra. -— 9 - 10. 11. 12. 13. Urfini --- 14. Urfini —— 15. Auguftinus Chifius 16. Pico- 17. Grimaldi - 18. Cibo-* 19. Aldobrandini — 20. Ferreri — 21. Malafpina - 22. Colonna -- 23. Ludovili - 24. Barberino -- -l <> 25. Medina de las Torres — 26. Doria - Pope. King of Sicily and Naples, and D. of Milan. Duke of Savoy. Duke of Tulcany. Duke of Mantua. Duke of Parma. Duke of Modena. Bijhop of Trent. Prince of Bozzolo. I Marquis of Caftiglione. )Duke o/Guaftalda. Duke of Novellara. Duke of Bracciano. Conte di Petigliano. Prince o/Farnele. Duke of Mirandola. Prince of Monaco. Marquis of Mafifa. Marquis of Meldola. Prince of Malfarano. Marchefe di Monte. Prince di Pagliano. Prince di Piombino. Prince di Paleftrina. Prince di Sabioneta. Marquis of Torreglia. The following Rcpublicks ; viz. 1. Venice. 2. Genoa. 3. Lucca. 4. S. Marino. iftuefday, 3 Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 687 T’uefday, Jan. 24. Hiring two horfes for nine fcudi, we began our journey for Ancona , and let forth about noon; we rode over pons Mi Ivins , which at each end has a wooden bridge, to breakdown on cccafion of war. The Tyber was very high at this time, almoft even with its banks. Seven miles from Rome we pafs’d through Prima Porta , a fmall village, and then travelfd hilly ground on the Via Flaminia , which is pav’d with broad flints • and in lome places we otferv’d a ridge of (tones fet on each fide of the way, and at about every two paces diftance were fix’d ftones higher than the reft ; we took notice of fome old ruins, and one round building with broad but- trelfes. Nine miles from Prima Porta , we lodg’d at Caftelnuovo. The Campagnsa of Rome is not well inhabited. We paid two piftoles for our horfes at Rome , and one more at Spoleto. Jan. 25. We mounted before break of day, and went feven miles to Arignano , a little wall’d place, and eight miles far¬ ther came to Civita Caftellana , another fmall wall’d town, where we crols’d over the river Triglia ; from hence we had 12 miles 01T a profpedt of Caprarole , a famous palace made into a pentagon ; it belongs to the family of Farnefe : there we were told is a whiipering-place like that in the duke of Mantua’s palace of T. Four miles from Caftellana we din’d at Bcrghetto , a poor wall’d palace, where our pafto or entertainment was but bad. In the afternoon we rode over the iTyber at Ponte Felice ; which was begun by Sixtus V. and finifh’d by Clemens VIII. On our left hand we law Magliana , and two little caftles. Four miles from Borg- hetto we pafs’d by the ruins of the antient Otricoli. city Otricoli , and went over a hill, where the new town, a fmall and mean place, is built. On an altar-ftone here, is this infcription, with a prcefericulum on one fide. IVLIAE I.VCILIAE L 1 VII IVLIANI FIL PATRONI MVNICIPI CVIVS PATER THERMAS OCR I COL A NAS A SOLO EXTRACT AS SVA PECVNIA DONA VIT DECVR. AVG. P. .. P. D. D. D. Hence wc travell’d a ftony and hilly way eight miles to Narni , a fmall city with a caftle on the top of a hill, a mile or two before we reach’d Narni , where we lodg’d this night. We rode by a SKirroN. very deep and high precipice. V ^~ v “' v ' a ' We obferv’d in this journey Eremites, that lprinkle holy water on paffengers, when they beg their charity. Jan. 26. We went feven miles in a pleafant valley cultivated like Lombardy , and the highway was ftrait till we came to Terni (antiently Interamnd) a pretty Term, city built in a plain. In the midft of the piazza ftands an old pillar before the cathedral church, which feem’d to have been a Roman temple. Hence we travell’d and afeended a high hill. Soon after we left ' feven miles from Terni • and feven miles farther, we rode through Spoleto , a large city on the fide of a hill. Spoleto. Here we chang’d our horfes, and had a profpedt of a large and pleafant valley that reach’d to Fuligno ; it was till’d as the country in Lombardy. Eight miles from Spoleto we pafs’d by Trevi, (antient¬ ly Mutufcce and Trebia) a wall’d town upon the top of a hill on our right hand. The way this afternoon was very ftrait and very good. We lodg’d this night at Fuligno. Fuligno. This evening we faw the comet nigh Aries , with its barb a towards the Pleiades, but it was very dim. Jan. 27. We took a litter (as we did at Spoleto ) and frefh horfes, which car- ry’d us a mountainous way up four miles to Bala a fmall village, where they make paper. We had here a pretty profpedt in a narrow valley, and had a good road the higher parts of the mountain, where we met with fnow. We dined at Serra- valle , and there chang’d our horfes again. This is a little village by the river Cbiente , that runs in a narrow valley, 14. miles from Fuligno hither. In the afternoon we travell d 14 miles more, and lodg’d at Valcimarra , a fmall village, feated in the lame valley and the river Cbiente. Jan. 28. Two hours before day, we took frefh horfes and another litter, and rode feven miles to Tolentmo , a little wall’d Tolentino city, where we had frefh horfes again, and then went 10 miles to Macerata, (antientlv, according to Ferranus’s Lexic. Geograph. Ailia Riciiid and Helvia Ricina ) leaving the high mountains of the Apennine be¬ hind us. A iittle before we enter’d this place, we pals’d under a fair new arch, with the half figure of cardinal. of brafs upon it. Macerata is indifferently large. We fhould have chang’d our horfes, but travelling on, after dinner we met with fome on the road, with whom we chang’d horfes and eight miles from Macerata came to Recanati , ( Recinetum Recanati. and Narni. <588 A journey thro' Part of the [Italy. Skippon. an d p^icina nova) a long city on the top of a hill. Here we obferv’d an infcrip- tion on the fide of a houfe, fignifying that the Santa Cafa had reded there. Many poor boys were importunate beggars as we came up to this city. We went four miles up hill and down hill, and in very bad and deep way, pad- fing by an aqucedudl, and at night arriv’d Loreto. at Loreto, where every innkeeper we faw invited us into his houfe. The church dedicated to the virgin Mary is built like a cathedral, where the dory of Santa Cafa’s removal from place to place is hung up, and trandated into, i. Hebrew 2. Arabick. 3. Greek. 4. Latin. 5. Sclavonian. 6. Dutch. 7. French. 8. Spaniflj. 9. Italian. 10. Welch. 11. Englijh. 12. Scotch. 13. and IriJlj lan¬ guage. One father Corbington a Jel’uit turn’d it into the four lad. See Mr. Rays travels. A fair brafs font here, which is well carved. A pretty monument of cardinal Cajetanus. The church-gates are brafs, and wrought with relievo figures, repre- fenting (lories in thebible. Thttrea- A French Jefuit introduc’d us into the Dry- treafury, which is a large room with a painted roof; within feveral preffes and iron grates we faw many rich prefents made to the Madonna of Loreto , by princes, Sc. We obferv’d particularly the wood at Vincennes nigh Paris , in a filver model ; a crown of gold fet with pearls, given by •••••• princefs of ! Tranfylvania ; the crown and fcepter of .queen of Sweden ; an emerald, prefented by.wife of Henry III. king of France ; a large heart of gold, given by Henrietta Maria queen of Eng¬ land : On the outfide of it are thefe three letters, I H S, made of fair diamonds ; opening it, on one fide is the Madonna pictured, and on the other, the queen’s picture curioufly drawn, (’tis laid by Cooper') and her name is thus written, Henrica Maria Regina An glue. A gold chalice fet with precious (tones, by the emperor ; a little book of gold fet with camei,£fc. and adorn’d within with pictures of the virgin Mary , Sc. furniture for an altar worth 120 fcudi, by Camoski ; a heart with two great diamonds; a ba(on and ewer of lapis lazuli , the pieces being foder’d together, by count Olivares ; a chalice of lapis lazuli , one entire (lone, by Henry III. of France ; the picture of the Madonna , made of feathers; a ved- ment for the image of the virgin Mary , fet with diamonds, by Ifabclla governed of Flanders ; a fpread eagle, let with diamonds ; that diamond in the bread is large: a diamond valu’d at 12,000 crowns. by don Carlo Doria ; a diamond, fent by the prefent king of Poland , worth 8000 fcudi. The family of the Medices have been great benefactors. This pope hath yet fent no prefent. A model of f taberna in Calabria , twice freed from fieges ; a model of Augufta Pretoria (Aojta ); a model of the city Nantz , 1633. The ltory of our Saviour’s nati¬ vity, carved in box, given by a German Capuchin ; part of the evangelids, written fo lmall that it cannot be read without the help of a glals ; lapis bezoar occid. given by a Jefuit. Within the area of the cupola of this church dands the Santa Cafa , cruded over on the outfide with marble rarely carved with dory; vide the piClures of it. At the wed end is a window, where they fay the angel faluted the virgin Mary: In the middle of the north fide was the old entrance, now dopp’d up, and four other entrances are now made ; over one is written this didicb: Nullus in Orbe locus prxlucet Sauthor iflo c Qtaqi cadit Titan , quaq- } re furg t aquis. A done table is preferved under the altar - the image of the virgin Mary, which they fay was made by S. Luke , hath hanging before it a great gold lamp, given by the Venetians , ex voto , when they were infeCted with the plague; which ’tis faid abated prelently alter this prefent was made ; two large coruucopix of maffy gold ; three Jcudelle or poringers are prelerv’d here, wherein pepople rub their beads; an old piece of a plank wrapt up in an embroider’d cloth was (hewn us for a great relick, alio two gilt dars of wood ; the bell which caules the pedilence to ceaie. Sc. when it is rung ; the pavement is of marble, which hath many times been cover’d with iron plate, yet both that and the pavement have been worn away ; but a u'ooden beam, plac’d in the pavement, is reported to remain miraculoully the fame w ithout wearing. 'I he w’alls of this houfe are built of done of a reddifh colour, (hap’d like bricks; and at Nazareth they find the fame kind of done. They have a legend that Suarez defired one of thefe Legend. dones to be put.into a chapel he w r as building, like this, in Spain ; which was granted by the pope, and it was fent to him while he was at Trent , when the council was there : but Suarez fell im¬ mediately fick, and till he fent back the done to Loreto , had no hopes of re¬ covery ; but it was obferv’d, as the done was brought nearer and nearer to Santa Cafa , (o he gradually recover’d. This 3 Italy.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 689 Ancona. The ftone is now diftinguifh’d from the reft in the wall by an iron grate about it. At the upper end of the choir is an efteem’d pidture of the Jews accufing the woman of adultery. The apothecary’s Ihop hath all the gally-pots painted with Roman and Sacred ftory, by Raphael Ur bin. The duke of Florence offer’d as many of {liver in ex¬ change, but it was refus’d. In the cellar, which is large and well ftor’d with wine, we faw three feveral colour’d wines drawn out of one tap. At the fteps leading up to the church, is a fair brafs ftatue of Sixtus V. who made Loreto a bilhoprick ; a pretty foun¬ tain in the piazza, one fide whereof is double portico’d, belonging to 24 canons. A dung-hill place was fhew’d us, where they fay the Santa Cafa refted before it came to the place it is now in. Loreto confifts of one fhort ftreeton the top of a hill, and is walled about j it is three or four miles diftant from the lea ; mod of the houfes are inns or fhops, where they fell beads, meafures of the Madonna , Sc. without the walls is an indifferent ftreet. January 30. We took frefh horfes and rode deep and dirty way, up hill and down hill ; and eight miles diftance we pafs’d through Camerona , a fmall walled place on the top of a hill. Seven miles further we arrived at Ancona , a pretty large and well built city, but the ftreets are narrow and not well paved. The Bancho or exchange is a fair place like that at Genoa , having the roof well painted, and a balcony looking into the haven ; over the entrance is a ftone figure of one on horfeback removed from Trajan s triumphal arch (on the mole) which is built of large Parian marble, and is very handfome and kept entire. At the end of the mole is a fort, where there is a light-houfe to diredt fhips in a dark night - } for there is a rock not far off that is dangerous. On the top of a hill is a ftrong fort (finifhed by Augufi. Cbifius the prefent pope’s nephew) which commands the city. Ruins of the old port are (till remaining. S. Cyriacus , the domo, is feated on a hill. The monument of Van Loofen of the Bofch in Flanders here. A pretty new play-houfc was built up for this carnival. In S. Francis's, church are many tabulae Nippon. Votivee, whereon thefe letters were writ- ’ ten, P. G. R. i. e. Per Gratia Riceuula. In the Dominicans rofary church is a tombftone thus inferib’d. D.O. M. Sepulchrum Balthafaris Vander Groes Bol- dus Flandne fuorumq ; fucceffior. Anno Domini mdcxxxxiV. Mahy Jews live here. At night our hoft at the inn took our names. Here we obferved a kind of mufcle, Ballare Concha altera longa Rondeletii , vulgar- marine, ly called Ballare or Dattyli di Mare they live within great Hones that are loft j fome of the ftones are as big as a man can lift, and many mufcles ate found in one of them ; they are fed by the lea-water, i>c. that runs in at little paffages. The meat is delicate and fold dear. In the road from Rome , vines are faftned to reeds. January 31. Hiring for feven feudi two horfes to carry us to Ravenna , and to fee S. Marino by the way j we had a good road on the Ihore, nine miles to a long w'ooden bridge over the river Fumefino , and pafs’d by a ruin’d caftle ; eleven miles further, we rode good way on the Ihore to Senigallia, a Senigallia. fmall city, with low walls and a fhallow ditch • it hath a little port and haven, and a ftrong fort towards the fea. Many Jews here. We travelled 15 J cws - miles after dinner, palling bridges over the rivers Cefano (Lat. Senna ) and Mitro , which laft is nigh Fano , where we lodged Fano. this night without the walls. This city is fortified with a higher and ftronger wall than that of Senigallia ; it is hand¬ fome, having ftrait ftreets indifferently well built. The piazza is neat. The Auguftines church is a broad and fquare ftrudture, formerly the temple of Fortune ; the brafs figure of this Fortuna is in the palace. We faw an old Roman arch, which is reprefented on the wall of a church dole by it, where is this written. Effigies Arcus ab Augufto Ere Sit pojleaq ; exparte dim : hello Pii II. contra Fanen. An. mcccclxiii. 8 N Vol. VI. DIVO 6 po A Journey thro ’ Part of the [Italy, Ski p ton D 1 VO AVGVSTO PIO CONSTANTINO PATRI DOMINORVM. IMP. CAES. DIVI F. AVGVSTVS PONTIFEX MAXI MVS COS. XIII. TRIBVNICIA POTEST. XXXI. IMP. XXVI PATER PATRIAE MVRVM DEDIT. CVRANTE. L. TVRCIO SECVNDO APRONIANI PRAEF VRB. FIL. ASTERIO VC. CORR. FLAM. ET PICENI. Malatefia ufurp’d the authority of this place, and was driven out by Pius II. and the duke of Urbin. The arms of this city are a red and white ladder, which they have from two families, Carignano of Ancona , and Caffara. In hac Porta fiat Leo Fortis , was for¬ merly written on a gate. Pefauro. Feb. i. We rode on the fhore feven miles to Pefauro , a pretty city with a handfome piazza. The domo hath a large cupola. We went bad way io miles further, and din’d at Catbolica a poor village, having Gradaria on our left hand. Hence we traveil’d good road on the fea- fhore, and the Via Flamtnia brought us to Rimini 15 miles from our baiting- place. Antient inferiptions in the piazza of Pefauro ; and at the gallows were many skulls and quarters of men. Rimini. Before we entred Rimini we pafs’d under an arch of brick, thus infcrib’d ; Veni, Vide et Impera iTer fclix Piccolominee Gentilitia tua Aquila. Vent celerior , Vide oculatior , imperia avgufiior Hecc funt Ariminenfium Vota Quorum indicem obfequii Vel rude Saxum tuus reddit adventus. Within the walls we pafs’d under ano¬ ther arch of {tone, made in honour of iTiberius Ccefar , but the infcription is de¬ fac’d : It is a high and large arch. In the piazza is a brals ftatue of Paulits V. The piazza is fair, with feme portici about it 3 and here is preferv’d The (lone the {tone Julius Gefar ftood on when he JuliusCx- {poke to his foldiers after he pafs’d the iar jloo.ton jg u Picon ; thefe modern inlcriptions on when he ■ r fpoke to his 1 * foldiers after he c. Cxfar Dili. Rubicone Super at o civili Ru commit it. fuos bic in Foro R. ad- locut. Suggefium hunc Vetufiate collapfum Cojf. Ariminenfium Novembris et Decembr. mdc v. Refiit. On a little chapel is written. Eucbarifiix Sacramento non pauci ad Chrifii fidem dedufii D. Antonio beic Concionante. Rimini is a great and handfome city. An old {tone bridpe built of huge {tones, by T. Caefar , over the river Marecchi. Cardinal Piccolomini is legat, and pre- fent governor here. This carnival there w'as much masking and running at the ring. We found the weather much colder in thefe parts than between Rome and Loreto. A Spanijh piftole worth but jo ~ julio on this fide of Italy , and worth 31 julii at Rome and elfewhere. Cardinal Carafa , nuncio at Vienna , was here in his return from the emperor’s court. Feb. 2. After much wrangling with our vitturine, we procur’d two frelh horfes, and rode by a cloifter of white monks, two miles from Rimini j five miles farther we began to afcend a moun¬ tainous country, and enter’d the terri¬ tory of S. Marino , pafling through a fmall village with a caftle, call’d Serra- noalle ; and three miles thence came up to the borgo of S. Marino , where we dined at the fign of this commonwealth’s arms, which are three towers on a moun¬ tain, and this underwritten, Libertas per- petua. This borgo, like feme of our coun¬ try villages, hath but mean buildings j in the middle there is a piazza with a portico before the {hops, and a market kept here every IVednefday , which from Chriftmas to the end of carnival, is fre¬ quented by people with a great number of hogs, fometimes amounting to four or 5000. This borgo is fituated dire&ly under a precipitous high rock, whereon is built the city of S. Marino. Two ways s.Mauino. lead up to it ; one very fteep, the other more ea{y and winding : In the firft is a crols cut in the rock, call’d Croce di Cava- liero , becaufe a knight was kill’d there in Malatefias time. At the city gate we left our fwords, which were return’d us again by the favour of the captain of the militia, and permitted to wear them. This city is on the ridge of the higheft mountain 2 Italy .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. 691 mountain in thefe parts, having a per¬ pendicular precipice on one fide, and on the other a wall with a difficult afeent up to it; on the higheft places are three towers, one of which is call’d the for- trefs, and is a prifon ; a ciftern nigh it. The houles are but indifferent, and the ftreets narrow and uneven. The piazza before the council-houle is fmall; under¬ neath it are two great cifterns for water. On a wall here is fix’d a {tone, mark’d with thefe meafures: Fiede da mano equal Meafures. to 12 inches, pzede commune ; braccio pic¬ colo ; braccio grande. Faccie delle Canne , Mattone Cotto , Favella Cotta , and Coppo Cotto are the fizes of bricks; and in ftone are carved the meafures for corn. About 60 ‘Jews live here. Here are four convents; the difcalceate Francifcans min. obferv. the nuns of St. Clare ; and without the walls are the Capuchins and the Servites. The jurifdidtion of this republick is about eight miles in compafs, and three miles in length. Four cattles fubjedt to it: i. &erravalle. 2. Fietano. 3. Monte Giardino. 4. Fiorentino. About 1500 fighting men in this com¬ monwealth. We faw no foldiers, only fome sbirri at Serravalle. At a diftance we faw the garden of S. Marino , nigh Monte Alboj where they hang malefac¬ tors ; under the fortrefsthey behead fome offenders. Without leave none are fuf- fer’d to wear fwords or piftols, but dag¬ gers are allow’d. There belong 25 fmall pieces of cannon to this republick, two culverins and about 50 horle piftols. We were told, if any one kills another in his own defence, he forfeits 100 fendi , but the magiftrates remit all but 25. The little river Cano-va bounds the territory towards the north, where are eight corn, and two powder mills. Acqua della valle is a water, they fay, fprings out on S. Jo. Bapt. at night, and cures all difeafes but the French- pox. We had a profpedt of a very mountainous coun¬ try, and faw S. Leo , a ftrong fort of the pope’s, whofe country environs this re¬ publick on all Tides. The bifhop of this place is alfo bifhop of S. Leo, Monte Feltre , and la Penna. The cathedral dedicated to S. Marino , is pretty large, where his head is preferved within one of filver. Behind the chapel devoted to the facrament, are two hol¬ lows in a rock, which, they believe, were S. Marino and S ... . beds, who were both ftone-cutters, and made thefe pla¬ ces with their own hands. Another place cut out of the rock, where S. Ma¬ rino ufed to chaftife himfelf, and in a garden we law of that fort of garlick he ufed to eat when he did penance. In Skippon. the cloifter is an old monument of a countefs and her fon, who gave this mountain to S. Marino. In the Francifcans church is a taber¬ nacle of wood pitch’d over, whereon the evangelifts, prophets and faints are hand- l'omely pictured in gold, and covered with glals. Two apothecaries fhops, and but two butchers fhops in this city. The repub¬ lick gives maintenance to a phyfician and a chirurgion. When the parent dies, children have equal fiiares. Good Mofchatella wine grows in this territory, and they have olives and fheep, but breed no cows. The foil is indiffe¬ rently good. The republick fends ambaffadors, and prefents of cheefes, made of fheeps milk. They have enmity with no prince or ftate, nor particular friendfhip with any; and in the leveral wars of Italy , lived in peace. Their commonwealth is 1163 years old. Little or no impofitions on the people. But one coach here, which is kept by fignior Giacomo Bellozzi • They ftamp no money. Cardinal Carolus Barberino is their protestor at Rome. On S. Bartholomew's day is a great fair for calves, Sc. which is encouraged by reafon of the fmall gabelle that is paid; for whether more or lefs are brought, they fay but a julio is the cuftom. All the foldiers are then in arms, and ftand in the afeents up to the city. When they march the captain of the militia goes firft, then the two cap¬ tains of the republick, with the gentle¬ men after them; the fiera, who carries the colours, followed by the lieutenant and four ferjeants. The inquifition can do nothing with¬ out leave firft from the magiftrate. The government is deferibed by Mr. Ray. Every IVednefday a court is held to hear caufes, in the Borgo. We returned in the evening to Rimini. Feb. 3. We had a good road nigh the fhore, and at 12 miles diftance went over the Rubicon , and three miles further dined at Cefenatico (Cx. rena) now a fmall village, with a port for little barks; we rode then five miles, on a caufey, in a fenny country, and pafted through Cer- y S. Peter. This belongs to the Francifc. difcalceati, who have a fair cloifter. In the portico, before the church, are thefe two Roman inferiptions. PROPAGATORI ROM. NI IMPERII FVNDATO QVIBVS PVBLICAE 5 FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO VICTOR SEMPER AVG DIVI CLAVDI NEPOTI DIVI CONSTANTI FILIO SETORIVS SILANVS VP PRAEPOSITVS FABRICAE DEVOTV N M E M. COCCEIO xM POL NEPOTI TRIB PLEB. DESI LEG. PR. PR. PROV. IN SIC 1 LIAE QVAES. TRIB MIL LEG XI CL SEVIRO EQ. R. xVIR ST PRIMITIVVS LIT viVIR. Nigh this church a large porphyry monument is fix’d in a wall, and this inlcribed underneath. Tart of the [ Italy - Vas hoc Porpbyriacum oh T’beodorici Got- tor. Imp. cineres in Rotundx apice recondkefis , hue Petro Donato Cxfio Narnien. PYxful. favente tran/latum ad perennem memoriam. Sapientes Reip. Rav. P. P. C. Mdlxiiii. On the north fide of the city is the river Marecchio , and a little diftance without the Porta Cybo, is an old gothic building called the Rotunda , which is Rotunda, about 14 paces broad, having the roof of one ftone, in the middle whereof is a crofs made of four ftones, upon which formerly ftood the forementioned Vas porphyr. ; underneath, they fay, was ano¬ ther church, now filled up with earth and water. This Rotunda is built of ftone, on eight arches in an o&ogonal figure, and the outfide, except towards the cornice is ocftogonal - 3 upon the arches were placed round, a portico of pillars, now thrown down. Thefe two inferip¬ tions here under two relievo figures. Duo Javan Lupi et Aprl Una Jtivanix Domus bos produxit alumnos Ltbert at is opus contulit ana dies. Naufraga mors pariter quos junxerat ante Et duplices luttus fie perimqua dedip: An. Do. Mcxlviii. tempore Eugenii P . P. et C. Imp. hoc opus ejl fabium ad honorem Dni et S. Marie pro hua, slli- prundi et Gaillie Uxoris ejus & Ga - ludi filii ipforum et omnium parent bin eoram. The church of S. Maria Portuenfis is s. Maria very handfome and hath a ftately cloifter Portueniu. belonging to the Canonici Lateranenfes. The Benedidtin convent is a fair build- The Bene- ing, they have a round church eredted di5tins. by Juftinian the emperor, and dedicated to S. Vitale , which is fill’d up almoft half the heighth of the pillars to make it more dry and healthful j there are eight pillars, and between each are two pillars. This church is crufted over with marble, wherein are odd reprefentations, viz. the legs of a man, a man’s face and bones like a skeleton. Under the altar of S. Vitale is a well, where he was drowned and martyred. The altar table is of oriental alabafter which is tranfpa- rent, tho’ above three inches thick the pavement is old and tefielated. A little chapel wherein is a well, they fay, full of martyrs blood, which one pope doubting of, put his ring in, and had it taken out bloody, whereupon he beftowed great indulgences, and called this chapel Sanffum Sanfforum, into 2 which Italy.'] Lew-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 653 into which no woman rnuft enter; the bodies of S. Urficimts Epifcopus, S. Ec- clefus Epifcopus, and of S. Vi ft or Epifco¬ pus here. A fquare ftone in the pave¬ ment of the church, whereon the martyrs buffered. Within an altar is a ftone with two hollow imprefiions, made by S. Urficinus■ his knees, when he was beheaded, who carried his head in his hand for a quarter of a mile. Under the marble head of Jufiinian , is written. Memoriae Juftiniani meigni legum paren¬ tis Divi Benedifti Patris patruelis , quern Auguftus Auguftum appelles, ex agnatione tanti n:n - Boyle one of my lord Brogh ill’s fons, Air. Hall, lord Hinchingbrocke, Air. Waters, Air. Dajlrwood , Dr. Jeanes, a Ion of Sir ' • • Scot ; an Engli/Jawoman married to a Dutch merchant of Rouen, and another married to one Lett of Geneva. Air. [Italy Nath. Bacon left our company and went for Paris, intending diredtly for Eng¬ land. The duke of Crecqui coming this way from Rome, was met at the gate by many horfe men, and fo conducted to his inn, where one of the magiftrates made him an harangue, and after dinner went away in his horie-litter, foldiers lining the way without the gate, and the horfe- men accompanied him a league or two. The minifters were. 1. [furretin. 2. The mini- Mcfierat. 3. Another of the fame name. ft ers - 4. fronchin (a kinlman of his is fled for coming Geneva and Szvitz money) 5. Fountaine. 6 . De la Badie, who was for¬ merly a Jefuit. 7. Du Four. 8. Cbabrey. 9. Girand. 10. Sartor is. 11. Rutet. 12. Calendrin. Some of them are great in- veighers againft black patches, ribbands on Ihoes, Sc. night-walkings, Sd. Every thurfday there is a fermon at five in the morning, and another at eight. On lundays the like, and prefently after dinner is catechizing,then the afternoon’s fermon ; but firft chapters are read and pl’alms lung in the order they are printed in a paper, that hangs up in feveral pla¬ ces of the church. \\ hile the chapters and the text is reading, the minifter and men are un¬ covered, but in fermon time, the mini¬ fter and they put on their hats. The preacher hath his liberty to ule his own conceived prayer, or the printed forms. Ihe women lit together neareft the pulpit, and the men round about. 'Ihe magiftrates and minifters have their dilhndt leats. Between the latter prayer and the blefiing, they fing a pfalm. They have no other mufick nor any impofed ceremonies. The minifters ule no notes; they have more adtion in their preaching than the Switz minifters, who have a more fix’d pofture. They pray for the French king, the king of England, can¬ tons of Zurich and Berne (who are in league with Geneva ) the proteftant prin¬ ces in Germany, the prince of Orange, and the united provinces. On funday evenings there are fome- times dancing, mufick. Sc. and always recreations without the walls, as Ihoot- ing at butts, Sc. which fome of the mi¬ nifters preach againft. Every week-day at feven of the morn¬ ing, is a fermon, and every afternoon are prayers about four of the clock, at S. Peter’s and S. Gervais. On fridays in the afternoon is a fermon. In the borgo of St. Gervais is a large magazine of corn, where many of the citizens have ftocks employed. Ano- A Journey thro'Tart of the Italy. ] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 705 Another magazine of corn is oppofite to the town-houfe QMaifon de la villej and under it is a portico to walk in. Before the Maifon de la ville is a raifed bench where malefactors are condemned ; the execution place is in the plain pa¬ lais ; fometimes they burn the bodies after they are hang’d. Confeflions forc’d by torture here. In the hall hang up (evera! old and large fepulchral urns; here is an infeription in memory of the league with Zurich and Arfenal. Berne. Four or five rooms full of arms for 5000 men. Great ltore of bullets and other necefftries for a fiege. Two great cannons taken from the duke of Savoy, when a (Tilled by the Spaniards and Italians. Six lefiTer pieces, with the names of fix months, the other fix are at Paris, Henry IV. having borrowed them when he took a cadle from the Savoyard ; in exchange lie gave mod of the fpoil to the Genevefe. The arms of the 13 noblemen hang’d on the bulwark de I’Oye, who were of the duke of Sa¬ voy’s army, when he endeavour’d to furprize Geneva. Several colours then taken ; on mod of them tears are repre- iented. Ladders wherewith they feal’d the wall 3 they are thus made of three pieces. The fil'd ladder hath (harp irons at the bottom, to fix in the ground, the fecond was to be fixed upon that, and the third and upper- mod upon the fecond, having trundles at the upper end to run up againd the wall-fide. The petard (not yet dif- charged) which was then fad- ned to one of the gates, and ready to be fired by a Savoy¬ ard , who was prevented by being (lain. The rod with which the duke of Savoy threatned to whip the Genevefe. Guns that can dif- charge four times. A reding daff that throws out a rap ; er and two daggers. A great number of old pidols taken from the Neapolitans , who were fent by the king of Spain againd this city. The duke of Rohan s arms Sharp-pointed daves the fird fentinels ufe when any carts with hay enter the city. An iron (crew to break an iron chain, after this fafliion. He that (hewed us the ar- fenal, had a half pidol of Lewis XII. which on the reverfe had this infeription, Perdam Eubylotus nomen. On the other fide, Ludov. Fran. Regniq ; Neap. R. Many of the maid-iervants in Geneva wear red hats, like the Jews in Italy. The pell-mell was made at the duke of Rohan’s charge ; his monument in a chapel of S. Peters is datelv, but his datue is ill made. Two hundred inhabitants now in Ge¬ neva, that have been papids, and fome of them fryars. The great dreet or le grande Rue, mounts towards S. Peter's. The lower or Rue has, is a flair dreet, only obfeured by the tall portici of wood. On an inconfiaerable fmall houfe up¬ on the bridge, are written thefe two verfes. Stct domv.s hcec fludhis dor.ee formica ma¬ rina Ebibat et totum Feftudo perambulct or- lern. Two eagles kept alive in a cage nigh the river, and in the front of S. Peter’s is an old done carv’d with an eagle. In an old cloider nigh St. Peter’s are three epitaphs to Engliftjmcn ; the fird for Mr. Ralph iFillburham of Chejhire , who dy’d 1644. The fecond, Chrifio Servatori. Pl uft r is juvenis Roger ins Fownfhend Eque- ftris in Anglia Ordinis, exatto in pater- ms cedibus et patriis gymnafiis facro pictatis et virtutis tyrocinio, dum fapi- entice Comparandce et moribus expenen- tia excolendis ext eras regimes peragrat, hue non fine numine delatus vix adole- feentiam egrejfus , at ate florente, ccelo maturus mortalitatc exuit et in fpe beat a refurreStionis hoc tumulo conditus reqv.i- efeit. A. S. cio idcxlvii. The third. In obit urn nobiliffimi juvenis Gulielmi MaJJam Barouetti Angli Decemb. 19. An. Dom. 1662. Si pia tutoris valuiffet citra Lucani Pollucifque preces non ea fata fimul Non ea fata tibi, te vivum complexa fuiffet Patria te reducem lata parenfq ; tua Aft aliter fuperis primo fub flure juvcnLe En juvenum florem pratfeettere Dcx 8 R Vol. VI- Immeritum jo6 A journey ihro ? Part of the [ Italy . Skippon. Immerittm vobis Parcanm nomen , inique Atropos abrumpit ft ammo, ccepta modo Pono animum Dens hcec nec miror numtna 'veils Primegenos animos primitiafq•, fibi Debita dona Diis mens orta et reddita calls Altera pars terris Sanffa Geneva tuts Non Aquilx veflrce mufcas voluere cadaver Nobills hxredis prceda petita fuit Non lacus injignis Votis refpondet avaris Fnftitix plures mens pia vcllet aquas Chara Geneva vale difeedens dico precorq ; Sint vobis tutls offa quieta fua. Flevlt Sam. le Brim Angitis Ceftrenfis, Jobannis Nepos, Calvini Filins, Oxonii Procurator Senior. An. Dorn. 1656. In the Gymnafium we faw the publick library ; where are not many books, but iome fair old manuferipts : among which the bible tranflated into French , 1294. by a canon of Fherouenne. An Englijh bible, printed here the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign. The Genevois and the Switzers were partially enclin’d to favour the Hollander more than the Englifio in this war be¬ tween us and the Dutch. A league from Geneva is the foot of mount Saleve , a long mountain in Savoy, upon the top of it cow-keepers dwell the fix fummer months, and make butter and cheefe. Two leagues from Geneva is mount ulmiry (Jura) in the territories of France, and it will take near three hours to afeend to the top, where cow-keepers dwell three months, and make butter and cheefe; and the other two months they come halfway down the mountain. On this I obferv’d good pafture. Rare plants grow in thefe two mountains. The territory of Geneva is larseft to- < D wards Savoy to the eaftward. The can¬ ton of Berne is very near on the N. E. Th*e territory of France is nigh. One of the Syndicks had been a cobler or a fhoemaker. Fhuan. lib. 68. p. 333. tom. 3. obferves as follows. A Q 1579. Geneva patrocinium a Regs Hen. III. in renovation $ foederis Helvetici fufeeptum. Si ad publicam feeuritatem perti- nere ex fader at or inn fententia vifum ftier it, Rex in ~v. cohortes Helvetic as fingulas, 300 militibus conftantes ftipendium con¬ feree , in eaniqrein 1300 aureorutn prxfenti pecunia Soloturni deponere teneatur. Si contingat urbem ab alt quo aperta vi oppug- nari ad ejufq • defenfionem tam Bernates ac Soluturnenfes quavi alii pagi exercitum con- feribere cogantur Rex 1500 aureorum fin- gulis menfibus, quandiu helium durabit ad- nurnerct , V Helveticarura Cohortium fti- pendio in Us confufo -— Si quis princeps hujus foederis can fa helium aut Regi aut Fccderatis Helvetiis indicat. Helvetii 6000 peditum Rex 10000 aureorum fingulis menfibus fuppeditare teneantur — Gene¬ ve nfes pro tanto Beneficio liberum accejfum in itu et reditu copiis regiis et feriatira per urbem tranfeuntibus trails Alpes et ubi- cunq■, opus finer it, probe ant. F FRANCE. France .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 707 F R A Ednefday July 19. we hired horfes of thechafife-marin for four crowns apiece (our diet or nourifhment included) and allowed for the carriage of our portman¬ teaus two fols for four pounds weight, above five pounds • and left Geneva about 11 of the clock, then puffed over Pont d'Arve, where there is a Geneva guard ; and over the bridge is the duke of Savoy’s guard, that fearches for fait, &c. We went through two or three villages be¬ longing to Geneva , and after two leagues riding, ferried over the Kbofne , paying five lols a man. Half a league further we came through Coulonge , a village where the French king’s dogana officers fearch patTengers portmanteaus, &c. Half a league from thence we rode in a narrow paflfage between the mountains, divided by the Kbofne on the left hand of us; and paffing through a fmall fort called Clufa (where fix or feven French loldiers keep guard) were examined whence we came, &c. About two leagues thence, we oblerved the place where the river Kbofne , in the winter time, runs under great ftones for about half a {tone’s caft after, it puffed through a channel three or four yards broad: Half a league further brought us to our lodging at Cbaftillon. Tburfday , July 20. We let forward about four in the morning, and rode mountainous ways, paffing by a fall of water called Piffe Vac.be , which Golnitz in his itinerary, fays runs under ground into a lake called la Bougie , that was on our lefc hand. La Bougie is divided into two parts by a wall , one part is marfiiy, belonging to S. Germain , the other be¬ longs to Nauiua , filled with water and ftored with fifn. We travelled through Nantua , a long town with portici like thole of the Rue-bas at Geneva ; it is feated at the end of the lake we had on our left hand. This place is noted for good needles. It is three leagues from Cbaftillon. Three leagues further we baited at Cerdou , having rode between box-hedges and a hilly way, making a fteep defeent, juft before we arrived at Cerdou , where our chafife-marin changed his horfes. After dinner we afeended a Skippon. W'V'N-’' N C E. rocky hill, and then enter’d a plain which continues to Lyons. Two leagues from Cerdou we ferried the river D’Aine, and three leagues thence lodged at Ver- bonne. This day we took notice of ffiepherds huts were made of ftraw, and placed on little carts. July 21. At break of day we mount¬ ed, and after two leagues riding, came through a walled place called Mo -*• and three leagues thence, rode hilly ways till we came to Lyons , where we firft LYONS, went through a fuburb full of victualling houfes. At the gate we received a billet for to lodge in the town • then made a fteep defeent in a well-paved way, and after weighing of cur portmanteaus, we took up our lodging at the Efcu d’or , or crown of France. This is a very fur city, part fituated at the meeting of the Soane and Kbofne , and part on the other fide of the Saone ■> the houfes are tail and well built, only defaced by the raggednefs of their paper windows. Great merchandizing here, and large (hops full of all forts of wares. We ftayed at Lyons till the 25th of July, and remarked thefe particulars. Maifou do la Ville is a very handfome M-.ifon de frbrick, having a fair fquare piazza be- la ville. fore it, with a large fountain. On one fide of the piazza is a ftately front erect¬ ing. In the ftair*cafe of the Maifon de la Ville , is a picture with this infeription on one fide. Una Nox interfuit inter Urbem maximum et nullain. Senec. Ep. 91. There is alfo this infeription ; Annus Galiix et toti Europx fort unatijfimus dignus omnium gentium ebrifttianarum annalibus millefimus fexcentefmus fex- agefimus , quo poft diuturnv.m Francos inter et Ilifpanos helium , tandem Pax in Vidofi amms hi ft la Sancita eft et jurat a a psraefentib. Kegibus Ludovico XIV. Cbriftianiffimo et PbHippo IV. Catbolico atq-, in feeder is fanflijfhnum vinculum nupta Ludovico Maria Fberefia Pbil/ppi Filia , mox propagata in exteras gen- tes , eadem pax conciliavit imperatorem SueciSj 70S SKirroN. A Journey thro* Tart of the f France. Stiecis, eofdcm Saccos, Polonis et Danis, delude Anglis Re gem fuum reft it ait: Hanc felicijjimum annum gratulari et Pofteris tradituri, Adminift rant thus Lugdunenfem Preeturam Forienfem ct Belljiocenfcm Prorege Nicolao de A eu- foilla Dace Villcrcgio Pare et Maref- challo Franc ice et Prorcgis Legato, Camillo de Neuf'villc Archiep■ et Comite Lugd. Primata Gallix. Monumentum hoc erexerunt Prxpofitus Hugo de Pomcy Dominus de Rochefort et des Saum ares Regis ci confiliis, ac Confides Jacobus Michel Dominus de la T"nir des Champs, Bartholomaeus Forms Regis Conftliarius in Molinenji Ffuxfura infpettor *ceKi¬ gali urn Provincialiurn, Dominions de Ponfainpierre ct Romanus Fbonux. Verfes of Claudius the emperor written in brafs. See in Goluitz his itinerary. The rooms we faw here have thefe names : La Chambre Confulaire, where the pro- vofl and four efehevins fit. La Chambre de la Conformation, where the merchants fit. In a fair great hall are the pictures of the 14 Louis’s kings of France. The roof painted. Another hall, with the pictures of the efehevins. A little chamber for banquets, Be. s. Nicy. S. Nicy is a pretty church. LaCharite La Charite is the hofpita!; a great building. N. Dame jV. Jg ame de Fourier is on the other fide of the Scone, built on the higheft ground • where there is a fmall pyramid eredted to the virgin Mary. Here we had a full profpedt of the city. Before another, i; a fmall pyramid, and thereon inferibed the name of God and Unity and Trinity, in feveral languages. Without S. Juft’s gate is a large fuburb. ift Car ~ The Carmelites that go barefooted, have a pleafant convent, with large gardens, whence a fair view of the town. The Friars in this city are very im¬ portunate beggars, coming into Grangers chambers. The feafl of S. James was kept while we were here ; and we faw this pro- ceffion. Firffc w'ent a great banner, then a great cake or loaf (called pain benedh') upon a fellow’s head ; after that tw r o pipes and a little drum, which made fome mufick in the interval, between friars finging. Relic Cour Belle Cour, is a fpacious wide fpace, where there is walk of trees by 3 was a mcll, and a pleafant it. brother to the earl of at this time in Lyons at royal, and who lately Caftlemain, the academy turned papifb. The proteftants are about 2000 fa¬ milies in this city, and have a temple at S. Romain, two leagues up the Saone. Monfieur Maze an apothecary, and a proteftant, was civil to us. The monument of the two lovers is on the other fide the Saone ; it Teems to have been fome Roman building, and is built of great Stones. A B are 2 fqaare pillars in the front. 'I wo forts, La Pierre Seize , on the Two Forts' Soane fide. For St. Jean, on the fame fide with the body of the city. The Saone is a very flow river, and there are crofs it one (lone and two wooden bridges. On one of them, a cuftomer demands a liard of every one that pmTes over. St. Jean is the cathedral, which is st. jean, large and remarkable for a clock, with motions I ke that at Strasburg; ey^ery hour a cock on the top claps his wings twice, and crows twice, after that an angel comes out of a door, and falutes the virgin Mary , and at the fame time the Hoi)' Ghoft, and aicends, and God the Father gives the benedi&ion. The minute motion hath an oval circ'e, and ) et the handle or index always touches the circumference. Invented by Monfieur Scrvier. We had g^od luck in feeing monfieur m. s?r- Serviers cabinet, his humour being very difficult. He w ? as a foldier in his younger days ; but about 22 years ago he retired hither, and invented many ingenious pieces of clock-work, machines of water. Be. which he hath defer ibed with his pen, and bound them up together in a thick folio, and made the models of them in wood with his own hand. Thefe things we took notice of which w-e had not before feen in Italy and Germany. The hand of a minute-watch moved every time the ball fprings up in a certain engine. A lizard creeping np a perpendicular rule, fhews the hour of the day. A motile creeping upon a rule placed horizontally, doth the like. Thele are done by magnets. An hour-glafs, that turns of itfelf when the fand is run out, and at the fame time the hour-figure placed over the glafs is changed. vier ’s cabi¬ net. Several France .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, ^/France. 709 Several hydraulick machines. An atlas bearing a globe, and upon its equator was fliewn the hour of the day. 1 he clock upon a declining plane, does not go when placed upon an horizontal plane. A ball put in at the mouth of a wind¬ ing ferpent, runs through it, and after¬ wards paffes up the tail of another placed on a moveable axis, and comes out of his mouth. A tortoife put into a bafon of water, will never Hand ftill till he points to the time of the day. A balseftra to fhoot granada’s at a certain diftance. A circle, with the feveral humours of perlons written on it, and if you touch the gnomon or index, it will point to the humour (as j s pretended) of him that touches it. A door that opens both ways. Two gates, when one fhuts, the other opens. Two dials a pretty diftance from one another; moving the index of the one, turns the index of the other; but when monfieur Servier took a little piece of iron or loadftone (coloured white) out of the point or end of the index that was moved, the other would not ftir. A cannon to fhoot downwards; it is placed on a declining carriage, an axis with cords winds it backwards and for¬ wards, and when the cannon comes to the further end, a circle of lead is round the mouth. We were told that the Germans living in Lyons have great privileges; that they have diftindt courts to judge civil and criminal matters, and when they make harangues to the king, they fpeak Handing. Upon the clock of the cathedral is inlcribed, M. Horologium iftud jam pridem per Ilxreti- corum injuriaui omnino mancum et di- rutum , illujlrijjimi ac Venerabiles D. 1 ). Comites Lug. ftta utunifica pictate non tnodo redint egrari , fed etiam Elegant ins concinnari Curarunt. Anno Domini MVJLXI. Opera Gulielmi Nourijfon. c f’tefday July 25. Hiring a poftilion for a louis d’or a man, we left Lyons , and rode over a long Hone bridge crofs the Rbefne , and then pa fled through a large fuburb, and entered on a large plain, where we travelled four leagues, and after that rode a pleafant country caft up into hillocks, and fix leagues from Lyons dined at Arias , having palled thro’ Vox,. VI. Dut one village before. After noon we Skippon. came through Merieu , La Eaftie , Cham- pier , and at night lodg’d in la Frett , three leagues from Artas. July 26. We rode a good way in a level valley, and at two leagues from la Frett went through Moyran ; a little from thence we enter’d between the mountains, and travelled a fruitful valley, planted like Lombardy with rows of trees, and vines climbing about them: fome- times we mounted ftony hills, among them paft’d thro’ Rives , a village noted for its iron works; four leagues from Moyran we arrived ac Grenoble , riding by Gre aoble. a double pell-mell juft before we enter’d the city. This night it flowed on the mountains near Grenoble. Grenoble is a large city, fituated in a fruitful and pleafant valley near the meeting of the river Drac with the Tfere. The houfes are generally meanly built, and the ftreets are not handfome. A long ftreet (on the other fide of the Tferej join¬ ed to the city by a wooden and a llone bridge. On the fame fide, upon the top of a high hill, is a fort called la Baflile ; a wall runs up that hill. The arfenal is another fort, guarded Tbearfenal now by about 150 foldiers. The cathedral is a mean church. The jefuits are building a neat chapel. The proteftants are here about 5000 ; their temple is within the walls, and is of an odtogonal figure with a tall roof; within are feats for counfellors of parlia¬ ment, and perfons of condition ; a little gallery with jealoufiesor wicker windows, where many times popilh gentry, &c. fit incogniti. Three minifters. D. Lefdiguieres palace has fine fliady w'alks, and a fair garden. The bifhop of this city is a prince. Within the palace is a room where the parliament fits ; the lacqueys will luffer no fwords to be worn here, except you give them a fmall piece of money. Antient inferiptions on feme of the gates, which are printed in Golnitz's itinerary. Three liards paid fi>r every horfc that pafles the bridge with Hone arches. Wc vifited a garden of fimples be¬ longing to monfieur.a counlellor of parliament (who was civil to us) and monfieur Bernard , an apothecary. rhurfday July 27. Paying four crowns for two horles and a guide, we imme¬ diately, out of the city, alcended the mountains, and at a league’s diftance, came through a village called Sapene , and a league and a half further, pais’d thro’ the valley of Chartreufe village. Thele 8 S valleys 7 io A Journey thro' Part of the [ France. Skip pon. valleys among the high mountains of Alps , are well cultivated, having great {lore of oats and other corn, and meadow grounds. At a narrow paffage between two high precipitous rocks, we palled over a bridge crofs a torrent, and knock¬ ing at a gate, were let in by a fervant belonging to the monaftery of the Char- treufe ; then we afcended a mountainous way above a quarter of a league, till we palTed by a large building, where perlbns of all trades live, and who are habited like the fathers of the Carthufian order, and work for the convent. A good diftance further up, we arrived at the Clrniv-uc ^ ran ^ e Chartreufe , where the porter ’ ask’d us whence we came, and called a lay brother, who introduced us into one of the halls appointed to receive ftrangers in. At the gate w r e left our fwords and piftols. Seven hours riding from Grenoble hither. This convent is feated under one of the higheft mountains in thefe parts, and dilcovers far and near into the adjacent countries. As foon as wc came into the hall, wine, bread and cheele were fet before us; and one of the fathers, a very intelligent man, vifited and diicourfed lome time with us about the news of Europe , which he was no ftranger to. A boy guided us up into the mountain, and {hewed us a neat chapel dedicated to S. Maria de Cafalibus , which is prettily adorned with the letters of her name in gold, and with feripture epithets : beyond this we law S. Bruno's chapel built on a rock. At night we had our fupper and beds prepared for us. We obferved the friars at evenlong bowing their heads, as they fat, at the faying the Gloria Patri , &c. Sixty fathers, and as many lay brothers here. No women, but thofe of the royal blood can enter this cloifter. There are two ways more to come to this convent, befides that from Grenoble , viz. one from Lyons and the other from Chambery . In their {table they keep about 60 horfes, befides mules and artes. Friday July 28. Wefaw their church, a dark and narrow building j before the altar ftand four tall brafs candlefticks } within the choir the fathers fit, and with¬ out fit the lay brothers. The fathers rife to their devotions at midnight, and are in the choir three hours ; but then they ileep till feven or eight in the morning, w hen the mafles begin. The cloifter is a very long and narrow {quare - y we went into one of their cells, which are not kept lo neat as thole we law at Venice. At meal - time, feveral fervants bring bread, wine, and open a little window by the fide of the cell-door, and there put in the provifion. On Fridays they fall ftri&ly, and this day we . law what they ate, viz. two or three Ipoon- fills of cold peal’e (boil’d) four or five pears, and a few ftew’d prunes, and raw plumbs, befides a fmall pittance of no lupper. In the Rcfebiorium are two tables, befides the prior’s at the upper end , they dine here together only on Sundays and great feftivals. In the general of the order’s lodgings, we obferved the pictures of S. Martins at Naples , the Certrofe of Pavia , and the convent nigh Avignon , &c. places belonging to this order. In the chapel is an altar-piece of great value. In the chapter-room is a large picture, how feven of this order were executed for treafon (they fay for re¬ ligion) in Henry the Vlllth’s days in England. Cardinal Richelieu profefted himfelf firft of this order. The lodgings to entertain princes in are neat j the chapel there is within crufted over with marble. We gave the cook a quart d’efeue, and having eaten our break-faft, and written our names in a book kept by a porter, we mounted and rode back to Grenoble the fame way we came. The Saw-Mill at the Grand Chartreufe, Fig. 1. ABCD is a frame fixed in the middle of the floor L L • it ftands perpendicular, and within it is another frame KKKK with the faw H, which is moved up and down by a perpendicu¬ lar beam G, that is joined to the bottom of the faw at i /, and moved by an iron handle e, turned by the water-wheel E and France.'} Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. 711 and the horizontal axis F ; at m (one fide of a bank, which is vulgarly call’d Skippoj*. fide of the law-frame) is faftened a piece la Fountaine qui Brule ; it is by a fmall of wood m a, with two fhort pieces of rivulet, and fometimes breaks out in tain qui w'ood n n , between which refts the end other places ; juft before our coming, Brule, of a long piece of w ood O P. As the other (Grangers had fried eggs here. The faw goes up and down, m a lifts up and foil hereabouts is full of a black ftone down O P, and that moves a long beam like our coal, which perhaps is the con- (on the fide of the mill-floor) Q^R 3 tinual fuel of this fire. Tiiefday Augufi 1. We took boat for Orange, and went down the rivers Tfere , and the Rhone ; twenty crowns was given for the boat, and the pafiengers pay’d proportionably to the length of their journey, lome more, fome lels. Mr. Ray and I paid four one-half quart d’efcu apiece. After we had left Grenoble three or four leagues, we durft not ftir from the bank’s fide, a furious wind arifing and (topping us for the fpace of an hour. Then nine leagues from Grenoble we arrived at our lodging in la Faitric , a village on the right fide of the Tfere. ■Wednefday Augufi 2. At break of day we entered our boat, and at two leagues diftance pafs’d under a bridge with ftone arches and a wooden penthoufe over it ; Romans a great walled place on the right hand ; thence we went three leagues to the meeting of the Tfere and the Rhofne , where we obferved for a good fpace, the Tfere kept itfelf unmingled with the Rhone, which was of a whitifh colour and much troubled, the Tfere being much clearer and greenifli. A league down the Rhofne we landed at Valence , a poor city and univerfity, fituated on the left fide of the river ; afterwards we Fig. 2. When O P is lifted up, the Jong beam or axis Q^R being a little moved, an iron g S with a crotch S, claps into one of the teeth of an iron wheel T, which hath a fpiral axis of wood V, that enters at X, the middle of the horizontal frame y y y y, which is moved in the floor MM MM with a piece of timber A that lies faftened y z, y z, two iron (crews z 2 z 2 pafling through a long piece of wood z z, and the fide of the frame 2 2. Suppofe the fiw begins to cut at \v, the fore-mention’d fpiral thrufts the horizontal frame y y y y with the timber every ftroke, further and further from the iron wheel T. We ftayed in Grenoble till Tuefday Augufi 1, and one day rode out, and after twice fording the river Drac (which makes a great wafh) at a league’s diftance went over Pont de Clef.\ a large arch croft that river, where we pay’d one fol a man j hand is walled; a league further we a league further we paflfed through a landed at a peage or toll-place belonging large village called Vif, and about a to Orange (we might have landed a league thence by S. Bartholomew, an- league nearer to Orangef where we gave other village, and Chafieau Bernard , 35 lols apiece for a horfe to carry our where we law flame breaking out of the things thither. We walked about two * leagues went by the Vivaretz and Severnies, and paflfed by Montlimer on the left hand, and Viviers on the right, both walled, tho’ mean places : and at 14 leagues from la Faurie, lodged at Bourg, a wailed town on the right fide of the river. Many peages and rolls paid by the boatmen as we came along. Thurfday Augufi 3. After two leagues we came to Pont S. Efprit, a (lately ftone bridge with 18 great arches, and 4 little ones; between every arch is a window. Vide Golnitzs itinerary ; It is curioufly paved with fquare (tones a hand broad ; two coaches can go abreaft on it ; it is not made (trait, but bending out againft the ftream thus; The town of S. Efprit on the right as in Fig. 2. 712 A journey thro Part oj the [France. leagues In a level and fruitful country to Oranze. Antiqu¬ es. Skitton. •* k 'S‘ -vv ' **" ORANGE In VaUme * Bour & and other places, we obferved meafures of corn cut in Hone, and little portals to let the corn out of them. Orange is but a fmall and meanly built city, and the walls are not confiderable; but there are out-works, which if well look’d afcer, would render it very ftrong, by reafon of itsfituation in a plain. The caftle is built on the higheft end of a long ridge of a hill; it was formerly of greater ftrength, when it had walled bull- works round about, which the French king in this prince of Orange's minority, caufed to be blown up with gunpowder, when at the fame inftant 30 (all roman- catholicks) were overwhelmed in the ruins. The governor is count de Dhoua ; but his deputy or lieutenant is a French¬ man and a papift. Within the caftle were now about 100 foldiers, who civilly admitted us into the caftle, and lhewed us many great pieces of cannon, and their armory ftored w'ith arms enough for 5000 men. In the middle of the caftle is a very deep well of good water cut out of the rock. C. Marius his arch, and la Ferre ronde, are antiquities without the w’all ; on feme of the engravings of the arch was written BOD VAC VS. The Circus is a ftately ruin, within the wall. See Golnitz , and a little pamphlet of the antiquities of this place. The people here are very civil, and of a much better humour than the French. When the French king had the city in his poffeflion, many of the gentry turn’d papifts. The univerfity is not confiderable, having about four profeflors, and one of them is one Guy (I think) a Scotchman. The roman catholicks have now the ufe of the cathedral. The inhabitants of this principality are at leaft half proteftants, and who were fenfiblc of the change of governors. On the tower of the Mai [on de la Ville^ we faw r many falic weights nailed to the w r all. The prince hath a parliament here of both religions, and hath palfed a publick amneftia of all offences, wherein he calls the king of England and the marquis of Brandenburg his uncles and tutors. In a poor woman’s houfe, w r e law an old Roman pavement of mofaick work, very curioufiy reprefenting a cat with a — I rat in its mouth ; round about --1 were fquares with this figure in ‘ — the middle of them. Friday Auguft 4. Giving four livres and fiften (ols for three horfesand a guide, we travelled a ftony way two leagues, in a country where thyme, lavender, box, &c. grew' plentifully ; many mulberry and olive trees planted in the fields. We pafted by Chafteau-neuf on the right hand of us, and a league further ferried the river la Nafque , paying for each horfe one fbl ; a league thence riding nigh the Khofne , we entered Avignon at port avig- S. Lazarc , upon which gate was written ^' ON - Clave Petri tuta. Having fhew'ed our bolletins of health which we took at Grenoble , leaving our fire arms with the guard, and taking a note to iodge in the city, we came to a fign of a tow n called St. Flour , where we lay till Monday the 7th of Auguft. In the cathedral, a fmall church fitu- Tlc ^ ated on the rocks nigh the windmills, we deal and law an antient monument of Benedi- palace, tins XII. Pope, a miller’s fon. 1 he palace is adjoining, guarded by loldiers. Chigi cardinal Padrone is Iegat and go¬ vernor, and monfignor Columnia vice- lcgat i who (they faid) was fuddenly to be removed, becaufe he had given lome fufpicion to the French king, by making a kind of fort before the palace gate, and laying up good ftore of corn. On the outfide of the palace, where the prifon is, are pi&ured hanging by the heels, the chief of the late rebellion againft the pope, and in the Bar.do 200 piftoles are promifed to any that can bring the head of any one of them : thefe rebels live in lafety at Villeneuf , a place t’other fide of the bridge, juft: crofs the Rhone which belongs to the French king, who hath threatned to burn alive any that fhall offer to lay hands on them. Monfignor Lomellino is the new vice-legat. The Dominicans church is a large Domini- building of one arch. cans. The Cordeliers church is larger; in cordeliers. the Sacriftia they lhewed us a round leaden box with a leaden medal, plain on one fide, and on the other the figure of Laura , and thefe letters M. L. M. I. which is interpreted by fome. Madonna Laura morta jace. This medal, with Italian verfes on her written by Petrarch , in a neat character, was found in that box lying at her breaft, when Francis I. took up her body, who alio made verfes on her in French , which are kept with the others. In an obfeure chapel we faw her tomb-ftone. In St Martial's church we fearched s. Martial. for Cafunir king of Poland's monument; but could not be informed where it was. Nigh the altar is a very ftately tomb, that reaches almoft to the top of the church, and below lies the figure of a bifhop. France.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 713 bifhop, and over him our Saviour and the a potties effigies, and fo upwards are many handfome marble figures. Celrjlms. The Celeftins church hath a marble re¬ lievo altar, which they lay is but of one piece, having many figures in it. The pibture of a lkeleton drawn by king Re- natus , who gave the altar. In the middle of the choir is a handfome monument of Clemens VII. pope. In a long chapel ad¬ joining is the legend pictured of S. Peter of Luxenbourg , &c. Vide Golnitz. The coining-houfe is oppofite to the palace, and hath a new and fair front. j e j- K i ts The Jefuits have a pretty chapel, and an indifferent Jludiujn •, in the area of it are dials, with direftions to know what it is o’clock in fuch cities as are under kings, and in fuch as are under commonwealths; the one is call’d Horologium Regium, the other Ariftocraticum , in which they have plac’d Geneva. The gate on the Rhone fide is open every day, but befides that, there is but one more open at a time, and that they change every week. About yoo Italian foldiers in the city. Here are fome pa¬ laces and good houfes, but the generality of the buildings are mean, and the ftreets narrow ; the inhabitants fear every night the rogues fhould creep in at their win¬ dows. Monday Augujl 7. Giving 15 livres of France , we hired three horfes and a poftilion, who guided us firtt over the long bridge at Avignon crofs the Rhone , which bridge is entire on the city-fide, but broken on the fide of France , and re¬ paired with wood : It feems to have been a Roman work, is built of ttone, and pav’d (tho’ now much defac’d) like that at S. Efprit , and it is more bending againtt the ttrearn. Some way on the bridge Hands a ccntinel, and the Avignon fearchers lodge there to flop and enquire into mer¬ chants goods. When we were almoll: over the bridge our poftilion paid about one fol a horfe. At the end of the bridge is Villeneuf\ a village, and a little way thence on tire river fide S. Andre , a ftrong place of the French king’s. Leaving thefe places behind us, (without entring them) we rode among fome vineyards, and then travell’d ftony way over little hills till we came by Remoitlin , a fmall wall’d place ; about a fhort Englijh mile thence we arriv’d at Pont da Pont du Guard , a ftately antiquity, well Giurd. defign’d by Dr. Bargrave , and deferib’d in Golnitz and Deyron’s antiquities of Nifmes . A league from hence we dined at Sejignan, a fmall village, and in the after¬ noon rode a direct and level way between olive fields, (the olive trees were much mortified by the extremity of the laft Vol, VI. winter) and after diree leagues riding ar- Skip.pon. rived at the Lutzenbourg , a good inn with- out die city of Nifmes. Nifiaes. We law the amphitheatre, the outfi.de Amphuhe- whereof is very entire, and is two ftories high; the tteps or feats are ruin’d, and the Arena fill’d with houfes : Over the great entrance are two half bulls in ttone, and on the outfide is a wolf fuckling Ro~ mulus and Remus , alfo a Triplex Priapus , or Penis wing’d, and the figure of a wo¬ man holding by a bridle. In a private houfe we faw eagles ex¬ cellently well made in ttone ; a double ftatue of a woman having two bodies and four legs; it was made without a head, but now they have fix’d on it the head of an old man ; fome will have this to be the ftatue of Geryon , but Deyron contradicts it. A fmall piazza, call’d. Place de Sala- mandre, from a pillar with a falamander upon it. La Maifon Ffuarre is a fair antiquity within the city, being one pile ofbuilding, adorn’d with ftatues, pillars, &c. Without the port de la Couronne are many old inferiptions, and an antient ftatue with his hands upon his head. A little walk without the town we faw the ruins of the temple of Diana , which is under the fide of a rock, and clofe by is Fons Diance , which firft makes a deep pond, and fends water enough to furnifti all the gardens of the city ; in winter or any rainy feafon it overflows very much. La Torre Grande , on the top of a hill, is a ruin’d tower of the old Roman wall in other places are feen the ruins of the old wall. The circuit of this city was but 2000 paces lefs than Rome , and was built for¬ merly upon feven hills. The front of the cathedral is adorn’d with antient carving. A large plain or level round the town, except on one fide, where feveral hills run along in a hill. The Splanade is an open walk without Port de la Couronne , fometimes frequented by a great deal of company. In the Maifon de la Ville are kept two or three crocodiles, (dead) which are the arms of Nifmes , and fignify their founders came out of Egypt. A new infeription here to Cbigi, cardinal Padrone ; Feliciffimo adventui Eminentiffnni Cardinalis Legati Chigii , publicum fuce fidei monu- mentum Nemaufi Nobilis quondam Roma- norum Colon'ue Confules .pofuere. In a court of this Maifon de la Ville is erected on two pillars againtt the wall the 8 T monument 714- -d Journey thro ’ Tart of the [France. Star pon. monument of Dandalo, the general of the proteHants. 1'he proteftants of this city are three parts of tour, and they had two temples, but one is lately pull’d down : Every morning they have a fermon, and in the afternoon prayers: On Sundays they have tour fermons : They have three burying places without the walls •, and they had a’ college and profeflors, but now the jeluits are matters: The proteftants have a bell to ring them to church. We met here with two Englijh gentle¬ men, viz. Mr. Aired and Mr. Parker ot MonmouthJJoire. F/ednefday Aug. 9. Paying four livres apiece tor places in a coach ot return, we traveil’d four leagues to Lunelle , where we dined, and four leagues further arriv’d at Montpe- Montpelier : About a league from the city we had very tandy way, the reft was pretty good, except now and then ftony. Friday Auguft n. We took two cham¬ bers, and paid five crowns a month ; and penfioned, i. e. dieted, at madam Mignot’s tor ten crowns a month more. Thefe Englijhmen were at Montpelier while we ftaid there : My lord Clinton the earl of Lincoln’s fon, Mr. Withers his go¬ vernor ; Sir Thomas Crew, lord Crew’s fon ; two Mr. Harveys , with one Spirito Rubatti, (uncle to him at Geneva) Mr. Peter Vivian, fellow ot Trinity college in Cambridge Mr. Martyn Lyfter, fellow ot St.John’s college, ibid. Mr. Ward, ftudent of Chriftchurch Mr. IVhilcombe, Mr. Tanner, Mr. Spicer, of the Temple Mr. Sampfon, formerly fellow of Pembroke-Hall in Cambridge-, Mr. JeJJop earl of Alisbury, and lord Bruce his eldeft fon, with a great train, his lady and daughters being with him •, Mr. Ha¬ vers, formerly of Trinity college •, Mr. 01 . St. John, formerly lord chief julfice, who went by the name of monfieur Montague, and his lady i Mr. Ellock Mr .Abdy Dr. Downes Mr. Poley Dr. Croone ; Mr. Hewlett Dr. Moulins, a Scotchman Mr. Norwood Mr. Deane Mr. Dajhwood and Dr. Jeanes. At Montpelier they play at mall in the highways; the players agree firft how far to play, and what ftone, &c. to touch, which is the ufual terminus of this lport: A that ftrikes firft, plays the pair, B plays leplus, but if B ftrikes beyond^, then A plays le plus -, if B gets another ftroke, A plays at two, and B refts at one, &c. FcrJtt or Verdet or verdigreafe is made here in rereligreafe. g reat quantity, after this manner: They firft put wine into the bottom of a great earthen pot, and then fix two or three flicks crofs, upon which they lay pieces of copper, and on them grape ftalks well fprinkled with vinegar, and fo ftratum fuper ftratum , and the pot is fhut clofe for five days ; then they fcrape oft' the verdet, and fell it for eight fois a pound. IVednefday, Aug. 30. We rode out four leagues, and dined at Frontignan, a little Frontignan wall’d place fituated by the eftang or lake, (in the middle of which is an ifland with the ruins of the bifhop of Montpelier’ s houfe) and in a fertile foil under the hills, (warm’d by the fouth fun) which afford the noted rich Mofchato wine ot Frontignan. Here may fometimes be bought good Bar¬ bary horles. At a quarter of a league diftance from Frontignan we forded the eftang, and then rode along the beach, between the eftang and the lea, to a cape call’d Mo?ifl:ti, (one league from Frontignan ) where rare plants grow, viz. Vva marina , Alypum M. Ceti, &c. On this promontory the French king is defigning a fort to de¬ fend veffels in the haven or port. We forded the eftang again, and found all along great ftore of Anaroface Matthioli then rode by the fhore fide, and at night took up our lodgings at the baths of Ba- lerue, one league from M. Ceti, (vulg. Cap de Cette). Thurfday, Aug. 31. We went two fmall leagues, and dined at the potl-houfe in Loupian and three leagues further crofs’d the river Herault, by palling a bridge, and towards the evening arriv’d at Pezenas, Pezenas. and lodg’d at the charrue. This is a very pretty city, and well built •, three pleafant fountains in the ftreets, and in the great ftreet a handfome walk in the middle for the citizens to walk in. About 160 proteftants live here, who go to fermon at Montagnac. The meeting of the ftates of Languedoc is often at this city, near which the prince of Conti, go¬ vernor of Languedoc, hath a pretty grange or country houfe. Friday, Sept. 1. We return’d by Mon¬ tagnac, and two leagues from Pezenas pafs’d by the abbey of Ville magne, and came through a town of the fame name, and two leagues further din’d at Mont- bazene : In the afternoon leaving the hilly and ftony way, we had better road two leagues to Verune, noted for the making of good butter *, and a league thence came back to Montpelier. A league from Montpelier we faw a little pond, which is call’d Bonill d’Eau, becaufe the water feems to boil up in fe- veral places ; it has a vitriol talle, and when there is water in the neighbouring ditches, the fame tafte is in them : This pond did not run over, tho’ always in motion. The Pajferie or making of raifins was p a flerie. now begun in thefe parts, which is after this manner : They take a bunch of grapes and France .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 71^ and fteep them in boiling lixivium till the fkins crack, then dip them in cold water, and hang them abroad till they are fuffi- ciently dried : They put oil into the boiling lixivium. Vide Job. Bauhini I lift. Plant. Mite wax. White wax is thus made here: They firft take the yellow wax, and melt it over a furnace ; then dip in it a conical mould of wood, like a block for a fteeple-crown’d hat, (daub’d over with the juice of fnails, to keep the wax from flicking to it) and immediately pop it into cold water, which congeals the wax into a conical figure : After this they expofe thefe cones of wax to the weather and hot fun in a pav’d court, for 15 days or a month’s fpace, more or lefs, fometimes lprinkling water upon it; when ’tis changing to white, they purify it in a fecond furnace, (the dirt and dregs remaining at the bottom) and then they take it out with a pot that has a fpout to pour it withal into cold water, the fellow with his left hand fliaping a it into a hollow fpiral, like this figure, or rather like the Brae dale they play at Baloone with : After¬ wards they expofe it at firfl to the fun and air, where it is perfectly whitened. Some workmen went into England to make white wax, but found that air not agree¬ able for it. In the fummer-time they con- ftantly water the wax, but in the winter, &c. the dews, &c. fuffice. This is a weeding engine in the king’s phyfick garden : At A is a fharp iron that cuts up grafs, as the engine runs on the wheels B B. rbyfck The phyfick garden is well enough de- garden. fcrib’d in Golnitz •, it is divided, for flowers, die fempervirent plants, &c. into feveral partitions : That wherein the profeffor fhews plants in is long and narrow, having four beds in it, where every plant hath its number, which makes it eafy to the learner, when he has the name and the figure where the plant grows. Dr. Chiquenau is bota- nick profelfor, and chancellor of the uni- verfity •, but Dr. Magnole , a young man, is a better herbarifl. One Sweeker y an apothecary’s fon of Dantzick , collected and dried all the plants about Montpelier , and was here at this time. About 1300 plants grow hereabouts. Dr. Haguenot is a phyfician of great practice. Dr. Soligniac is reputed a learned man. Dr. Jollic is a proteflant, and a very in- Skiptok genious perlon, and civil to the Englijh . Dr. Berberach is a good phyfician. The winter weather lails not long, but is pretty fharp for the feafon : The fum- mer here is very hot: When the wind comes off the hills in the Seventies , which lie northward, they account it wholelome to be abroad in the air ; but when it comes from the lea or fouth, few will flir out of their houfes; the reafon mull be the Hag- nan t waters between Montpelier and the fea. Montpelier is a city bigger than Geneva the flreets are generally narrow, but the houfes high, fome of which are built of ftone. No piazza befides two or three fmall market-places: Nigh notre dame, (an indifferent church) and the flreet be¬ fore the white horfe inn, is large. The Canourg is throng’d every fair fummer night with the gentry, &c. it is about the bignefs of the trill at Geneva \ a church was ere&ing in this very place, as appears by the foundations begun, but it was not brought to perfection, becaufe the king was jealous it might command the town, it being on a high ground. The poor people about Montpelier wear wooden fhoes in the winter-time, which they call Sabou. The Splanade is a large void fpace be¬ tween the town and the citadel, which is ^ not very confiderable. The city is feated on a rifing ground, and has no river nearer than an Englijh mile, (in the road to Nifties) at Caftelneuf. The number of the inhabitants may be Trotefiants. about 25,000, fome faid 21,000, accord¬ ing to a late account ; 7000 of them are hugonets or proteflants, who have two temples where they have fermons every morning : Lord’s-days after dinner little boys anfwer’d their catechifms with much confidence. The elders fit about the pul¬ pit, the women in the middle of the church, and the men round about in galleries and other feats. There are very great con¬ gregations, that give good attention in fermon-time •, but when the chapters are reading before fermon, not a word can be heard by reafon of loud talking, and many were fo irreverent as to have their hats on while they fung pfalms. Before any read¬ ing of chapters, if they flay any time, fome or other in the congregation will begin and fet a pfalm, which the reft join in. After fermon the collectors receive peoples charity at the door, the third part whereof belongs to the minifters. The fecond of November a fall was kept very ftriCtly here, all the hugonots fhutting their fhops, and, without refrefhing them- felves at dinner-time, remain’d the whole day in the temples: The people whifper- ji 6 A Journey thro SnirroN. ingly repeat the minifter’s prayers, not omitting the blefling. The proteftants have a burying-place without the city, and bury their dead either betimes in the morning or after fun-fet, the king of late years not fuffering them to accompany the corpfe at any other time ; 30 perlons is the greateft number that can go along with it the women are troublefome when they go, becaufe they howl and cry in a Arrange manner. By fome late editts of the king, none, upon pain of death, can turn Proteftants, that were firft Proteftants and after that Roman Catholicks. As fevere an editl I was told was publifh’d againft any monk or other ecclefiaftick that fhall turn Pro- teftant. The minifters that preach here, are, 1. Burden , formerly an Auguftine monk, he preaches after the puritanical way in England, i.Bertau, 3. Eufiace, 4. Chouin , 5. Carfenac. Cuftoms. Serenades, are fets of violins that play in the night under ladies windows, their gallants going along with the fidlers. The roots of Napus Sativus make good pottage. In the vintage time the people are very bufy early and late, and many prefies are at work in the ftreets •, but the grapes are firft trodden before they be prefs’d. Vines in Languedoc and Provence grow without fupporters, in large fields, and the trunks of them are cut pretty clofe to the ground. Green olives flit with a knife, and fteep’d in foap four or five days, then remov’d into fait and water, are ferv’d up to table ; the ordinary way is fait and water alone, but thofe are not fo foon fit to eat: Ripe olives are prepar’d in the fame manner. Many perfumes, eflences and confedlions are made in this city. The queen of Hun¬ gary's 1 water is fpirit of wine diftill’d with rofemary flowers: Oil of cloves is made per defcenfmn, viz. Take a bolt head, and upon that or any other fuch vefifel put a cloth with cloves in it, and over them a brown paper, and then lay a copper plate with coals. The prices of butchers meat are fetby the confuls every two years, and all forts of fifh are fold at fet rates, except foies. If one buys a fwine, and finds it infe&ed with the meafles, he may return it back again, for it is forbid under a great penalty. The women here are efteem’d hand- fome •, but the generality of the people are fwarthy, and many of the women paint. The widows of the meaner - fort wear a black hat of this fhape: II The language of the vulgar is call’d Patois , very difficult for ftrangers and thofe Vart of the [ France . bom about Paris to underftand, being a mixture of French, Spanijh, and Italian •, as may be obferv’d by the following words and phrafes therein •, Peccare ! Ah Paura ! Pipes a quo: A Dieu Seas. Dieus vous le donne. Cava- lifco. P ottone. Fullou. Fumee. Frin- gare. Scarabigliato. Cad. Began. The Schoice Placentince are the law- Scholar fchools. PiacentirtE The building of the fchools is very mean. In one we faw the creation of a dodlor of phyfick •, the profeflor firft made a fpeech, then mufick play’d, after that the new doctor was adorn’d with a chain, and the girdle, and kifled, &c. then mufick again, and the new dodlor made his fpeech, then mufick again ; then he gave the pro- feflors, &c. thanks, and mufick play’d once more : Clapping of hands was the ftudents applaufe: The new-created dodlor had a black gown and purple cap, and the profeflor had a purple gown and cap : The new dodlor went up and down the town with the mufick before him, and a beadle with the mace, a profeflor on each fide of him, and a troop of fcholars at his heels : In the fchool or room where he was created hang the pidlures of many Montpelier phyficians ; 17 publick exer- cifes mud be perform’d before you attain the degree of a dodlor. There were fe- veral women prefent while the folemnity was of creating this dodlor. Every ftranger gives 20 fols to fee an anatomy. Dr. Chiquenau is the prefent reader. The anatomy theatre is a building that Anatom ftands alone in a garden •, it hath ftone theatre. feats, and over the door are ftones carv’d with a lyon devouring a woman. They fhew here Rablais 's robe, which is now an old piece of fcarlet. Within the citadel is a large fquare, citadel. built round with foldiers lodgings : It hath four baftions, and but flight ditches. A fair piece of cannon, with Carolus V. written on it. Marquifs de Vards, governor of Aguef- mortes, captain of 100 Switzers, and for¬ merly nigh the king’s perlon, is now pri- foner here, and hath been for above five months; his refufing to take madam Ver- nouille, the king’s miftrefs, to be his wife, being fuppofed his greateft crime. We walk’d a long league to Villeneuf, a fmall wall’d place, and a little beyond took boat and landed in Magellone, a ruin’d palace, which was formerly the feat of the bifhop, who has now his palace at Mont¬ pelier. The church is ftill entire ; over the entrance into it is reprefented our Sa¬ viour, and the four animals the evangelifts are # France .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. V-1 are known by, and the figures of S. Peter and S. Paul rudely fhap’d in balTo relievo. Thefe rhymes we found here ; Ad portion Vite Sitientes pulque Venlte Has Intrando fores veftros componite mores. Hie intrans ora tua femper crimlna plora Fhiicquid peccaturlachrymarum fonte lavatur . An. Inc. D. mclxxviii. -f In the Maifon de la Ville at Montpelier are fair rooms, where are piftures of the confuls made every year, and the king that reigns is drawn in the fame pifture. In a great room chyrurgions are made mailers after a folemn manner, with mu- fick, &c. Gilibert’j The cabinet of monfieur Gilibert , an cabinet, apothecary, has feveral remarkables in it, viz. the fkin of a lynx, a mummy, the horn of the ibex, minerals, Ihells, ani¬ mals, &c. Cabinet at At the Jefuit’s college is one Frere the Jef nit's Rochet , apothecary to the fociety, who edlege. us hi s cabinet, viz , a whole dol¬ phin ; fifhes, fhells, fkins, and fkeletons of animals •, four or five fkins of flam- mands * a model of the ftrong fort of Rofes , and the caftle de la Fritat in Cata¬ lonia ; the true Balfamum ; a bottle with a narrow top, which had a cock, when turn’d, would fpring water up a great heighth ; a printed pidlure, which if held obliquely to the light, feem’d painted with various colours : He hath a pretty garden of fimples. We obferv’d the man¬ ner of drawing water out of a well here ; a handle turns an axis, the motion whereof is eas’d by a nut and a wheel with cogs, and when the bucket came up to the top, an iron turn’d the water out into a ciftern j A is the rope faftned at e to the bucket B, which mounting up to the iron i, is turn’d, and the water falls into the ciftern C. M. Relic. A vine crofs through a chamber, and afterwards branches and bears fruit; a tri¬ angular fticlc, he would have had us be¬ lieved the hugonots of the Severnies ufed to force the catholicks into their temples with. One monfieur Relle makes good micro- fcopes, through which we law cheefe- mites, finall find, &c. on polifii’d cylin¬ ders we law the picture of a chair. Carlo Borromceo , &c. refle< 5 ted from the pidtures drawn on paper : This man drew with his own hand two very exaeft terreftrial globes, the biggeft as large as both a man’s fills: He fells perfpedtives for three piltoles apiece. Vol. VI. Monfieur Baldafti , a chymift, told us SxirroN. he could do ftrange things, which he lb- lemnly attefted to be true, viz. That he ' could prepare a fubllance that fhould look like a real fruit, (and be yellow within) about the bignefs of a button or tartufie * this afterwards he can digeft into a liquor that fhould breed living ferpents: He bragg’d he could difeover the name of any plant only by feeing the fix’d fait of it j if 4000 were brought one after ano¬ ther, he could diftinguiih them : That out of the beams of the fun he could make a fubllance fhould at firft be a water, then a gum, and at lalt a cryllal, which, if carried in one’s pocket in rainy weather, would reprefent a rainbow, &c. He faid that Petroleum is the fame with the oil of jett : He had an univerlal liquor which will produce any plant out of its fix’d fait. The Patoiille is a night watch of 40 or 50 townfmen, that walk the ftreets about midnight. In Languedoc and Provence are two ways of fetting vines, 1. a I’aguille , i. e. plant¬ ing the vine upright, which is the more lalling, for fometimes they continue 40, 50, or 60 years : 2. The other way is by putting a vine twig at the middle into the ground, and the two ends of it to lay out •, this will bear grapes fooneft, but is not of fo long continuance as the other. I had two receipts from monf. Verchand , apothecary at Montpelier , the tranflation of which is as follows: To make grey Cyprus Powder. Fake the mofs which grows on the branches of the holm or fcarlet oak tree , (in Latin ilex coccigera, or qucrcus) and wajhit feveral times in common water , III the fmell of the mofs is quite gone : then fteep it in equal quantities of rofe water , and orange-flower water , and put it to drain in Jome high place , where the fun does not come , often fiirring it ■, when *tis very dry , reduce it to a very fine powder , and with every pound weight of the powder mingle a dram of good miijk , and half the quantity at leaft of civet. N.B. It mufl be fteep'd three or four times in the rofe water and orange flower water , and be dry’d each time. To make a pafte for perfuming chambers. Fake the roots of iris of Florence, cyprefs and Calamus Aromaticus, of each half an ounce •, dry’d red rofes , fused marjoram* cloves , cinnamon , of each two drams ; florax , benjamin , and labdanum , of each an ounce , reduce all to a fine powder* except the florax benjamin , and labdanum , which beat toge - 8 U ther 7i8 A Journey thro 5 Tart of the [France. Skippon. ther in a brafs mortar made very hot, with an iron peflle ; and when thej'e are melted, mix them with the powder form'd of the other ingredients , and put the whole mafs into a -perfuming pan of copper : As for am¬ ber, mufk, and civet , you may put in what quantity you pleafe. M. Steno. Monfieur Stem, a Dane, was at this time in Montpelier, and he is very happy in Tome anatomical difcoveries, viz. the Dudlus Salivaris, from the Parotides to the middle of the cheek : We were prefent at his difledtion of an ox’s head, and ob- ferv’d a blade of grafs that was forc’d up that Dublus : In a man the Ductus lies ftrait, but in a bead: oblique. One monfieur Lort makes counterfeit amethyfts, topazes, emeralds and faphires, which have very good colour, and by fome efteem’d the bell of that kind. At his houfe we faw the experiment of atramen - turn penetrans , and learnt that yellow oker burnt proves a red bolus: The Lurcois done is naturally white, but by fire is turn’d blue ; and by this art a bifhop of Cominge got a vail fum of money : Fluor Smaragdi , heated in a pan of coals, and afterwards put into a dark place, fhines very much : At the fame time feveral other Hones were tried, but did not fhine. Dancing on We faw here a Falachian walk up a the ropes. Hoping rope, then he danc’d on a drait rope as high as the top of a tennis court; after that he danc’d with two naked fwords, one tied crofs the right, and the other crofs the left leg •, then he had two ropes tied to his feet, and a boy hanging by the middle in thofe ropes was fwung to and fro as he walk’d up the high ftrait rope ; at lad; he cut capers, and flood upon his head on the top of a pole as high as the tennis court roof. A Dutchman danc’d without a pole in his hand on a lower rope, and three or four times dip’d down and ftraddled the rope, and up again prefently on his feet; he alfo cut high capers. Another fellow tumbled upon a bend¬ ing rope. Another on a fcaffold threw himfelf backward, and lighted on his feet •, he threw himfelf through three hoops which were held up as high as his head, but he had the advantage of a doping board, which he ran up, before he went through the hoops •, he made ufe of the fame ad¬ vantage when he tumbled over a boy’s head, who fat upon a tall fellow’sfhoulders, the boy’s head was higher than he could reach with his hands. Dec. 7. we began our journey into Pro¬ vence, hiring two horfes and a guide for five livres a day while we traveil’d, and four livres a day when we refted. On the left hand we had Caftres , where monf. de Caftres, governor of Montpelier , hath a houfe and three leagues from Montpelier pafs’d by Lunelle Vielle and half a league further to Lunelle Neufe, a large village ; and half a league further we arriv’d at Pont Lunelle, and lay there this night. Dec. 8. We pafs’d between Galhargues and Lefmargues, (argues fignifies ager) and afterwards had Beauvoizm on our left hand, and four leagues from Pont Lunelle we din’d at S. Gilles. The firft part of our journey in the morning was in a cul¬ tivated level country, but the latter part was hilly and full of fnrubs, In the after¬ noon, nigh S. Gilles, we ferry’d the Petit Rhone, paying one folmarque and three liards, horfe and man •, then rode three leagues (crofting the Camarque) to Arles, Aries, where each of us gave one fol for pafiing the bridge of boats crofs the great branch of the Rhone. The Camarque is an idand .leagues in compafs, belongs to Arles , and nigh the city is planted with vines, and is well cultivated : They feed great ftore of fheep on it: It is much like our fenns, and no pebbles or great ftones are found in it, which is the more taken notice of, becaufe on the other ( Provence) fide of the river is the Crau , or Campi Lapidei, cover’d thick with them : The Camarque gets often upon the fea, as ap¬ pears by the feveral watch-towers that for¬ merly flood on the fhore, and are now within the land. Dec. 9. Nigh the walls of Arles we rode thro’ a place where great number of antient chriftian monuments lay ; and beyond them we pafs’d by an aquaedudl, which (a little above a furlong from the city) receives water brought in a channel from the river Durance , (four or five leagues diftance) which runs into the Rhone a. little below Avignon ; then we travell’d between enclofures, which were planted with vines, olive trees, &c. and din’d at S. Martin de Crau, (three leagues from Arles) an inn that Hands alone in the Crau, or Campi Lapidei: After dinner we went three leagues more in the fame ftone level, or Crau, and near S. Martin pafs’d by an ilex wood, and two leagues from our inn rode by la Lour d'Entrecens, having fome wood about it, and nigh it a fmall lake of fait water. When we were crofs this plain, we mounted a craggy country, and then came down into a narrow valley fet with vines, and the fides of the hills planted with olives : We had on our right hand a caftle call’d Miramas , feated on a fteep rock, and four leagues from S. Martin de Crau, lodg’d in S. Chamas, a large village, a great part whereof is built France."] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 715* built on each fide of a high and long ridge, many of the houfes having rooms within the hills, and chambers quite through •, at the bottom of the ridge is a fubterra¬ neous pafiage, or way cut from one fide to the other, like the pafiage through M. Paufilippus nigh Naples : The earth is of a crumbling fubftance, and more eafily therefore to be cut through than that ; 80 of my ordinary paces long this pafiage, and broad enough for two carts to go a-breaft: One fide of this town looks on the Martiques , a large branch or Jinus of fea water. Dec. 10. We rode on the fide of the Martigues in a level ground, and ferried the Larc, and four leagues from S. Chamas din’d at the griffin : Thence we mounted to a village • • 4 4 • * on the top of a hill, and afterwards went rocky way, and four leagues from our dining place we ar- MaiTeilks. rived at Marfeilles ; where at our entrance the guard afk’d our names, and the country we were of. This city is fituated under hills, which are thick built with Bajlides , or fummer- houfes, mofl ufed by the citizens in plague time ; the common report is there are 24000 of them, but on a more modeft computation, there are not above 6000. Marjeilles is large and well built; the ftreets handfome, but kept fomewhat naftily : A long and broad key, where in clear evenings a multitude of people walk, and all day long is frequented by merchants, feamen, &k» A great number of barks and fome fhips lay within the port, and 13 French gallies lay here. The port is oval, but not large as that at Mejfina , and the entrance is not above four fhips breadth, which is fhut up by Citadel, a chain. A new citadel begun five or fix years ago is on one fide of it, which we were denied entrance into becaufe we were Englijh, but we had a full view of it without; it is built of Itone, and hath very thick walls. A the middle building higher than B. Many workmen are now employ’d in a woi k that will line all the entrance into the port •, there will be three baftions, one juft at thr mouth of the port, within it a portico, and lodgings for foldiers, and an open place to difeipline in, below the fol- Siarrox. diers chambers they lodge in is a fair vault, where the lower tire of guns are to be placed, and above is another fair platform. From hence they intend to make a pafiage by a draw-bridge to the other citadel. On that fide is a room under an old tower, where the intendants of health fit and ex¬ amine luch as come by fea : All letters and money brought from places fufpebted to have the plague, are firlt put into vi¬ negar ; but corn and filli may be unladed without flaying a quarantine, for we ob- ferved a French boat newly arrived from Tunis unlading of corn. The entrance into this port is bad, and in ftormy wea¬ ther fometimes fhips come in fo fuddenly, that they break the chain before they can have time to draw it up. On the upper part of the city are 18 windmills, and on the fame fide with the citadel, on the top of a hill, is an old fort. Two gallies and a galliot now building here. Juft before the port, and about a league off, are two large iflands i 1. S. EJlienne au ijle de Rat- toneau \ 2. S. Jean ou ijle d*If: at thefe iflands fhips make their quarantine, and two fmall Englijh vefiels were now there. The publick houfes of office bring much profit to thofe that rent them. The pilot of the galley-royal wears the king’s pic¬ ture in a gold medal. S. ViElor is an old abbey near the city, s. Vittof, where there is nothing of remark befides a chapel under ground, which S. Magda¬ lene hath made famous among the pilgrims; In the cloifter they fhew the marks of the devil’s claws, on a pillar nigh a well he went down into. About eight years ago the king was here in perfon, but being much difpleafed with the town, refufed to enter the gates, but commanded a breach to be made in the wall, which is not yet made up, and where at prefent moft people go in and out t At the fame time the king gave order for the razing the houfe of monfieur Glandeve de Nevizelcs , who was fufpedted as chief of the difeontents, and a pillar of infamy is eredted where his houfe flood. He lives now at Barcelona. Ludov. XIII. i£c. Sub cujus Imperio fumma Libert as , was inferib’d on the gate of the city that is now pull’d down. On one fide of this city are fome fuburbs, having an open place under one part of the walls. Few hugonots live here. The great trade of this place is the carrying out five fol pieces, and felling them in the Levant , eight or nine for a dollar. They export foap from hence. He that is conful of the Englijh nation hath ten dollars every Englijh fhip that comes into this port, and one per cent, for the goods fold here. Two A Journey thro 9 Part of the [France. 720 Skippon. T wo Mr. Warrens, Mr. Long, Mr. Hill, ]y[i\ Colflon, Mr. Williams , Mr. Stanly ^tnefchlnts. l atc 'y arriv’d here from Alicant. Dec. 13. We rode one league and an half in a plealant and fruitful valley, palling by feveral paper-mills, and had on our right hands S. Marcell. One league and an half further we travell’d in the fame valley watered by the river Vucaune, and dined at the blackmoor’s head in Attbagne , whence we had good way for a fhort league between the craggy tops of hills •, then we began to mount ftony and deep afcenrs, riding thro’ pine woods, where we obferved the bark of the pines cut off on one fide for about the heighth of a man ; and at the bottom of the trees, a hollow made to receive the melted rofin. Three leagues from Aubagne we de¬ fended to a lolitary inn call’d la maifon Brulee. , where we drank good Vin Cult, and had handfome as well as reafonable entertainment. Dec. 14. We rode about half a league, and came thro’ a village call’d Baujfet , pafs’d a good valley, and then travell’d a pav’d way between fteep rocks, where we took a watchman along with us, who conducted us by the walls of Ollioles , a place infebted fome months before with the plague. A good diftance beyond the town the watchman lefc us, and there we faw feveral watchmen that look’d after fuch as came to buy and fell, that they Ihould notcotne too near thofe of Ollioles , who pour’d the oil they fold, thro’ long channels of wood. Here are very large and fair olive grounds, and fome orange gardens. Capers grow hereabouts, being planted in the fides of ditches and walls, and planted in rows like vines in fields. A fhort league from hence we arriv’d at ‘Toulon, riding thro’ a good country. We rode this day two leagues and an half. Toulon. Toulon is a city fomewhat bigger than Leghorn , fituated on a level ground, and ftrongly defended by baftions towards the land, and hath but two gates. The key is fair, and about a quarter of an Englifh mile long, very ftrait; and all the hou- fes on the key are of an equal heighth. In the middle of the key is the admiral’s lodging. There is a handfome and broad ftreet where markets are kept, and a pi¬ azza to fell corn in : another ftrait ftreet. The port. The inner port is about half the bignefs of that at Marfeilles , and the entrance is narrow and chained. Men of war and fhips of great burthen can come in. Without this is another large port or fafe bay, lurrounded by a ridge of hills, and the entrance into that is commanded by a caftle or block-houle. At this time almoft all the French king’s fhips of war belonging to this ( Mediterranean ) fea, were in port, the duke of Beaufort being newly arriv’d from Tunis , where he had concluded a peace, and the report was, he had order to go out again to negotiate the like with thofe of Algiers , or to meet an Englifh fquadron failing into the Medi¬ terranean. The men of war belonging to this fea are 22. The admiral, named Philip , carries 72 guns, and hath about 700 men aboard. Six new bottoms were now upon the ftilts, and one of them may poffibly be launch’d the next fummer; but the reft will hardly be finifh’d in fome years, unlefs more workmen be em¬ ploy’d. Four or five of thefe fhips are efteem’d able to engage in a battle; but the reft of them, if our Englifh feamen may be believ’d, are not confiderable. Che¬ valier de Paul is reputed a good foldier, but no fkilful feaman. Marquis de Mar¬ tel is another French captain was for¬ merly a flave in Barbary , and there learn’d the Turkifh cruelty, which he now exercifes on all the prifoners he take?. Some fay the French on the Mediterra¬ nean underftand little of navigation, and that the beft pilots and feamen are fetch’d from weft France: but others fay, that the Provencals are the beft feamen in France. Strangers are willingly receiv’d into the French fea-fervice, and about 80 Englifh feamen were now aboard their men of war ; but they hearing of the difference between England and France , are refolved not to fight againft their countrymen : yet fome few have been prevail’d with, by fair perfuafions, or by fear of undegoing a little longer the ex¬ tremities of hunger, (Ac. to enter into the French fervice. Others feemed very conftant and relolute againft all temp¬ tations. The French men of war, two months ago, brought in two Englifh veffels that were trading with Tunis, and funk ano¬ ther that made refiftance, killing 12 or 13 Frenchmen , and wounding about 35. The Englifh mailer and all his men were faved, except two flain outright, and a boy that died afterwards. The mafter and his men were brought in hither : the fhip’s name was the Genoa merchant of 35 guns. Two fhips of Beaufort’s fleet, with a Englifli fire-fhip, met alfo nigh Tunis , Capt. LfP, taken Deacons in a merchant fliip of 28 guns 7 re nTh. and 40 men, who was in company with a little veffel of Plymouth, one Symmonds mafter. The French defired Deacons to come aboard them, promifing on their honour he fhould be fafely return’d into France .] Low Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 721 his own fhip again. Thefe fair tho’ falle words, and his ignorance of any quarrel between the two crowns, prevail’d fo far as to bring him into one of their veffels, where having fometime difcourfed with them about news, he defired leave to re¬ turn into his own fhip, which they per- fidioufly denied, and told him in a rough manner, He muft go along with them to Toulon. And becaufe he would not give order for his men to leave their lhip, three foldiers threatned violence by pre- fenting their fwords points to his bread;. The French fhips perceiving the Englijh to make away, prefently overtook them (the Englijh veffels being laden with cur¬ rants from Zant, and bound for England) and forced the men out of them : then the French pretending a performance, of their folemn promife, fent Capt. Deacons aboard his own fhip with 40 or 50 French , and half a fcore Englijh , who had once thoughts of carrying the fhip away when they were out of fight of the reft ; but the French outnumber’d them too much. Deacons faid, he had to the value of 3000 l. on board belonging to himfelf. His chaplain was rudely handled, being cut over the head, as well as a feaman who gave no provocation. He was fearch’d by the French chy- rurgion whether he was a Jew ; and tho’ he affirmed he was uncireumcifed, the infolent enemy immodeftly examined him in publick. Such kind of ufage was aggravated by the barbarous welcome they found in Toulon , where the poor feamen w'ere fetafhore without providing any victuals or lodging for them. Some were beaten on Clipboard, and moft of them plunder’d before the fhips or goods were adjudged in the admiralty court. Four of our fhips they had forced in al¬ ready, and one more was daily expected. About 70 men belong’d to thefe Englijh veffels. It was obferv’d by Capt. Deacons , that the French pilots miltook 25 leagues in 50, failing towards this port. Beau¬ fort does not underftand navigation. Sym- monds , the mailer of the Plymouth veffel, was offered a pillole for every Englijh fea¬ man he fnould perfwade into the French king’s fhips; which he fcornfully re- fufed. A Flemming or Hollander is now the mailer workman in building the new men of war. The materials, coak and fir, are brought four leagues from hence. Tickling of We were told, that c^per-buds, pre- capers. ftntly after they are gathered, are dry’d in the fhade, then put into vinegar for nine or ten days, and, after that, re¬ mov’d into frelh liquor, where they re¬ main for ufe. They keep beft when fait Vol. VI. is put to them. If well put up, they Skippo-.. will laft green three years. They are prefs’d . . . N. Dame de hon recontre is a little cha¬ pel nigh Toulon. Dec. 15. In the afternoon we took bills of health at the gates of Toulon , and pafs’d without a watchman by Ollioles , and this night lodg’d at la mafon Briilee. Dec. 16. We took a guide, and rode a llony way among rocks and woods in an uninhabited country, till we came to S. Baulme , two leagues from la maifon s. Baulme. Brulee , having firll afeended with fome difficulty a mountain, at the top whereof we were covered with a cloud or mill, and then we defeended a pav’d road in a wood mix’d with oaks and beech, &V. to S. Baulme , a fmall convent built on a rock that jets out of a fteep precipice : it is inhabited by eight or ten Dominican friars, who are obliged in this place and at S. Maximin , to eat no flefh. Their church is a great cave, where they fay, S. Mary Magdalen did 33 years pe¬ nance. Behind the high altar lies a fair marble ftatue of that faint in a fleeping leaning pofture ; for they have a tradi¬ tion, that in that very place five ufed to fleep, and that part of the rock was mi- raculoufly raifed to ferve her as a pillow, which is conffantly obferved to be dry, whereas all other parts of the cave, they fay, is moift, water always diftilling from the roof. A fpring rifes in this cave. See more of this place and S. Maxi¬ min in the Ahrege de I'hijl. de S. Magd. Alter we had dined in an inn clofed within the walls of the convent, we de¬ feended the remainder of the wood ; and when we had rode about half an Englijh mile, we had a winding way down the fide of another fteep hill, and thence had a continual (tho’ more eafy) defeent till we came to S. Maximin , where feveral s. Maxi¬ women came prefently to us, and were min. importunate to fell us variety of beads and medals of faints. This day I took notice of water falling out of a river into a decli¬ ning channel of wood A, into a round pit (at B) made up with a ftone wall, and going out thence, drives a mill. S. Maximin is a fmall fquare town well walled about; the church is dedicated to that faint, and is a tall and fair ftrudture, having 16 Ilender pillars to fupport it: it is lightfome, and hath no crofs build¬ ing, as in cathedrals. From the middle of the roof hangs a long ftreamer taken out of a Turkijh veffel. The rclicks of 8 X S. 722 A Journey thro 9 Part of the [France. SKiproN. S. Magdalen are enfhrined in a vault in the north fide of the church. The adjoyning cloifter ishandfome and large, belonging to about 60 Jacobins or Dominicans, who have a neat refedlory to dine and fup in. Over the place they wafh at before meals, they fet up ft quis’s. The fathers have their names written in one roll, and palled on the refe&ory door. The con¬ suls of the town keep the keys of the relicks in S. Maximin’ s church. Under a cradle is written, H.^c eft Maria fpeculum Tnnocenti.e. Under the pidture of S. Mary Magd. Hcec eft Maria fpeculum Peenit entice. The front of the church is not yet faced with Hone. Dec. 17. We traveled thro’ a village call’d Porcils , and about two leagues to¬ gether, rode over little valleys and low hills. We pafs’d in light of Pournere, a large village on our right hand, and then rode on a fair caufey for about a league and an half. On our left hand we had Negreola , another village ; and, five leagues from S. Maximin , went thro’ S. Marc , a fmall place where they find jafper. We rode a hilly country, and had on our right hand S. Vittore, a tall mountain ; and having journey’d fix leagues this day, arriv’d at Aix. {Aqu.t fextice.) Aix. \Ve went up the cathedral at Aix , and had a full prolpect of the city, which lies round, and is about the bignefs of Mont¬ pelier •, is fituated on a rifing ground, which alcends almolt infenfibly from S. John's chapel to the cathedral. The llreetsare large, cleanly, and well pav’d, and the houfes handfomely built. The gentlemens palaces are very fair with ltately portals •, but not placing them in the middle of the front, diminilhes the beauty of their outfide. A long and broad flreet called Orhitello , becaule be¬ gun and enclofed within the walls at the fame time the town of that name in Italy, was taken by the French from the . . . . On that fide of the city are other new llreets and piazza’s. When Orhitello flreet is finifh’d on both fides, and the two rows of trees are grown up in the middle, this well-built city will be more fam’d for its building, (Ac. Hills co¬ ver’d with olive-trees encompafs the town, which wants a good river, the Larc, an inconfiderable one, running clofe by it ; therefore it is faid, Aix la plus belle Ville en France fans riviere, i. e. Aix, the fairefb town in France , without a river. I think no city in Italy exceeds it forhandfomenefs. The river Durance is two leagues off. The cathedral is but indifferent, and the , Baptifterium is a fmall odlogon fupported c ' r ' t ’ 3eiI> ' q ' by eight tall pillars, each pillar of one ftone. Nigh the altar is the monument of Car. II. king of Sicily: His marble figure lies on the lower part of the mo¬ nument, and above is crown’d by two other figures. See the epitaph in Golnitz. A chapel here called Noftre Dame de bonne Efperance ■, and without the city is a fmall oratory call’d N. Dame de bonne Voyage. Cardinal Grimaldi is archbifhop of Aix, who with the canons, once a year, fit on ftone feats eredled in the church-yard, where the archbifhop bleffes the people. S. Maria . . . will be a pretty church s. Maria.. and fine when the altar ornaments are finifh’d. The oratorians have a very neat church. The baths (which gave name to this Baths city) are fomewhat negledted. The wa¬ ter is hot near the fpring-head, which is plentiful. It is ufed by wafhers and dyers. About 200 gentlemens coaches in this city. La maifon de la Ville will have a ftately front when it is finifh’d. The palace is a great pile of building, valaee. with a ftrong ftone tower in it that is ufed for a prifon. Below are feveral fhops, and above flairs we faw the great hall. The chamber of audience is like that at Grenoble: in the roof of it are painted all the kings of France, and in a corner is the king’s feat. Here plead¬ ings are heard. . La chambre Tournelle or Criminelle , &c. See defeription of governments. Before the palace is a large piazza, where is a pair of iron gallows erefted and walled about. We vifited Monfieur BorelVs cabinet, Borell’/ and obferved thefe curiofities, viz. Spina cabinet. Delphini •, Diable de la mer •, Laifa pifeis ; a thunder-bolt that fell in Provence, which weigh’d 54 lib. Coutela de la mer ; a glafs urn in a leaden cafe •, another glafs urn with anfas or handles •, an Indian colours, which was like a wafhing mop, having on the head feathers twilled together into little cords ; old heads of Trajan, Cybele , and f Brutus ; the ftatues of Livid and AFfculapius -, three fkeletons made of terra Cotta by M. Angelo ; cryftal with grafs in it •, a crofs of lignum Rhodium very curi- oufly wrought with the hiftory of our Saviour •, a brafs pottinger with Arabick prayers •, a fifh well reprefented in a ftone ; a circumcifion knife of ftone •, a cocoa 3 France.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France, 722 cocoa bottle neatly channeled on the out* fide •, the pidture of Ignatius in feathers; a landskip made of filk needle-work •, an antient ring with ino written on it; the four feafons of the year painted by Fo- guere a cup made of a rhinoceros’s horn curioufly carved i a long earthen urn with handles •, the head of Seneca in a fmall ftone ; a rare collection of modern coins, both gold and filver, among which one very large in memory of Guftavus Adolphus , and his being kill’d at the battle of Leipfich ; a piece of filver coined by Lewis XIII. which had mill’d round the edges, Perennitati juftijjimi Regis ; com- pleat feries of the Roman emperors in gold and filver a great urn channeled on the outfide. This king Lewis XIV. when Borell’ s father was alive, faw this cabinet, and then gave him the fword girdle, or la Banderie , confecrated at his coronation ; it is all filver, with gold buckles; and, as a further favour, gave leave it might be put into his coat of arms, which we faw painted fo in the glafs window, and a crown over it. Pic¬ tures made by the famous Italian and Flemijh rhafters •, great ftore 'of other antiquities, as idols, facrificing inftru- ments, (Ac. Dec. 19. We rode by S. Metre's cha¬ pel, who carry’d his head in his hand. One league from Aix we rode by Aguilles on the left hand, and then travell’d a hilly country, and obferved many al¬ mond-trees and olive grounds which were the lad winter almoft quite deftroy’d by the weather, which was a very great lofs to the country. We had good way on a caufey, which probably was made by the old Romans. After three leagues riding from Aix , we had a pine wood on our right hand, and a league further faw Pellifane, a village on the fame hand -, then pafs’d over a fmall river about half Salon. a league before we entred Salon, a large rambling town walled about. The great church is tall, and indiffe¬ rently handfome. Tomb of At the Cordeliers church is Nojlrada- N.Damus. jnus ’ s tomb, placed within the church wall, which, they fay, none dare open, be- caufe he prophefy’d, that that man fhould die within a year after fuch an attempt. His picture over it makes him a venerable perfon. On his monument is this in- fcription, D. M. Clarijf. ojja M. Noftradami unius omnium mortahum judicio digni cujus pxne divino calamo totius orbis ex aftrorum influxu futuri eventus confcriberentur. Vixit annis 62. in. 6 . d. 10. Obiit Salo. mdlxvi. Qui¬ et em pofteri ne invidete. Anna Pontia Gemella Salonia Conjugi opt. V. F. Monfieur de Grignan , archbifhop of Skippon. Arles , is fpiritual and temporal lord of this town. Here we were inform’d what that firing Mute, * is they call Mute , viz. the oil being f ort . °f prefs’d out, the remaining part of the^ r/;i olives is made up with water inco a pafte, then fqueez’d into round moulds like thick cheefe-fats ; and when they are dry’d in the fun, they are good firing like turfs. Dec. 20. We travell’d four leagues in a ftrait line upon the Crau, till we baited at S. Martin. Half way is erected a crofs. After dinner, at three leagues diftance, we arriv’d at Arles , which was antiently Arles, a kingdom, and the jurifdidtion of it is ftill call’d a Royaute , comprehending 50 or 60 leagues: the Crau and the Camar- gue belong to it, and they get every day upon the lea. When the French king was laft here, he would be guarded only by thofe of the city, which is placed on a rifing ground. From the tower of the town- houfe we took a view of it, and obferv’d it to be larger and thicker built than Aix. The ftreets are narrow and unhandfome. On the upper part of the town are a great number of wind-mills. The walls are well built after the old fafhion ; and. round a good part of the outfide of the wall, is the mall, which hath on the out¬ fide another wall of a little heighth. The town-houfe was pulling down, and AnticptU a new one a building. Here we faw the t,es ' ftatue of Jupiter , and another of Diana , an excellent ftatue, found without her right arm about 12 years ago, when they were digging a ciftern under the temple of Diana , where at prefent remains an old arch and two tall pillars of marble. The amphitheatre hath two portici as that at Nifmes. No feats are remaining, and the houfes within and without much ob- fcure the fight of it. Underneath at the great entrance is a large cave. The key by the river Rhone is but nar¬ row, tho’ of good length, where, in fum- mer evenings, the citizens make their Pourmenade or walk. S. Honoratus is an old church without s. Hono- the town, where, in a cave under the ratus. high altar, we faw ftone monuments of fix or feven archbifhops of Arles. Three or four are laid one upon another, and in the middle is that of S. Trophimus , whofe bones are ftill there ; and in ano¬ ther there is always water, fomctimes more and fometimes lefs, and thofe above and below are always dry (probably a cheat of the monks and priefts.) A great many fuch tombs ftand abroad, with in- fcriptions made by the antient chriftians, and moft of them are like thofe we faw at 724 Skippon. at Mcdsna. One infcription I tranfcrib’d ; viz. Julia Su. .. . Fill* 'Tyrannic Vixit ann. xx. M. vni. Quce moribus, artibus et Difciplind aeteris fceminis Exemplo fuit. Autarftus Nurui et Laurentius uxori. The monument of the firfl duke of Savoy is at the entrance into this church. It was open’d by Carol. E?nan. and the bones carry’d into Piedmont. Much antient fculpture about this church. A convent of Minims here. Mon fie ur Agar’s cabinet we could not fee, his father being newly dead. We drank a good red claret in this city; and we obferved that here and in other parts of Provence they drink a whitifh and lweet wine they alfo call claret. Dec. 22. We crofs’d the Rhofne over a bridge of boats, and then rode four leagues in the Camargue , and came to la Baron, a very fmall village on the fide of the petit Rhofne ; and after we had traveled one league more on the river’s bank, we baited at the ferry, and paid three fols for our pafiage over ; then had two leagues in a level, and a pine-wood on our right hand, a little before we Agufemor-carne to Aguefmortes, where we were ex- tcs. amined by foldiers, and left our piflols at the gates. This place is garifon’d by about 300 foldiers, and is a long fquare town with tall and flrong walls after the old fafhion •, and without the walls are half-moons caft up of earth. They keep open but one gate, and nigh it is a round ftone tower called la Torre de Conftance. A little channel brings boats to this town. The houfes are low ; for without the town nothing can be feen but walls. The Streets are indifferently broad and hand- fome. In the piazza is a long open por¬ tico for the market people, which alfo ferves for a walk. Half the inhabitants are of the reformed religion, who have a temple within the town. Nigh this place the foil is very good. Dec. 23. About half a league from Aguefmortes we rode under a tower in a marfhy ground, which was guarded by two or three foldiers: on the top feveral fmall pieces of cannon are mounted. Here we paid fix liards, and then rode over many fmall bridges, and, a long league from Aguefmortes , came to S. Lau¬ rence, a village, and a little beyond that, forded the river .... after that had Marflliargues on our right hand ; and, a [France, league from S. Laurence , pafs’d thro’ Lu¬ nelle •, and, four leagues thence, arriv’d in fafety at Montpelier, meeting in the Montpc- way foot foldiers newly levy’d, and licr * marching towards Paris. Feb. 26. Stilo Novo, the French king joyning with the Dutch, commanded all the Englifh out of his country ; and Mr. Peter Vivian, Mr. Ward, Mr. Tanner, Mr. Ray, and myfelf came from Montpelier together, hiring horfes of John de Guant. We dined at Pont Lunelle, and in the afternoon had a very flormy wind in our faces. At night we arriv’d at the pomme rouge in Nifmes, and there found Mon- Nifmes. fieur du Moulin of Aberdeen, who fhew’d us a large teflimony under the hands of the ministers, deacons, and elders of the proteftants in Nifmes, Signifying his kind- nefs to them in O. Cromwell 's time. The miniflers names are Bruguier, Cheiron, Arbujft, and Roure. We gave 30 fols a horfe, and 40 fols to the vitturine for our journey to Avig¬ non from Nifmes. We vifited here monfieur Geyran, a GeyranV counfellor, well skill’d in Roman an- cabinet. tiquities, and faw in his cabinet three folio’s of his own writing in Latin. 1. Treats of old buildings ; 2. Inscrip¬ tions •, 3. Medals. He is a great adver- fary to monfieur Deyron, who hath pub¬ lish'd the antiquities of Nifmes in 4 Jo. Monfieur Geyran feems to be a carelefs man, not having his things in any order. He hath almoft all the books about me¬ dals, infcriptions, (Ac. We took notice of Lozii hift. commemorationes ; Savot Com¬ ment fur des medailles antiques ; P. Petavii Veterum nummorum gnorifma , 4 to. Huljii Impp. R. Series •, Ant. le Pois difcours fur des medailles antiques ; Glandorfius Diftio- narium familiarum R. Menejlrier fur des medailles. He fhew’d us many lamps and lachrymal urns; a glafs candle- flick ufed by the Romans at Nifmes only, of this fafhion; a little lamp to be plac’d on an iron Standard thus: floppies at the lachrymal urns, which were made of a cement; a veffel of terra figillata, like a pottinger with which they pour’d milk on chil¬ drens bones after they were burnt; on mens bones they pour’d wine •, Penates ; a flrigil ; a fpoon to receive the tears, and pour them into the lachrymal urns •, a Patera ; an old buckle of the Romans made long thus. At a there is a Spring that opens. He fhew’d us a model of old Nifmes. A Journey thro ’ Part oj the Thefe France .] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 725 Thefc inlcriptions here. A. IVLIVS LEONAS. DO NVM. QVOD PROMI SERAT ANVBIACIS DO MESTICA LIBERT. D.S. P. L. BAEBI SECVND IBI MANES IACENT EROTIS L. IVLII IVLIANI TERPINII CONTVBERNALIS I L, ET INNONI B. OP. IMPER. PONI NEMAVSENSES The firft line of this is to be read Libero et Junoni bene opitulanli This was on a ftone placed by the antients, where a thunderbolt fell, to give notice none fhould pafs that way. FVLGVR DIVOM All the river and bridge at Avignon Skippon. belongs to the French king. Lomellino is now vice-legate here. He has pull’d down the wall that Chigi, for¬ mer vice-legate, built before the palace, and inftead of it is making a ditch. One Belkl-y and feven or eight Englijh Roman catholicks weave filk ftockens here. At the mint we faw great (tore of cinq , fol pieces coin’d, having cardinal Chigi the legate’s picture on one fide. Thefe pieces are fold in the Levant. The filver is firft melted into broad plates; after that it is cut into long la- mince, and then put between two iron cy¬ linders, which are turned by a wheel moved by two horfes. The filver, by being thus prefs’d, is lengthened our, then they foften the plates in the fire, and return them to the cylinders, and a fe- cond time put them into the fire, and again between the cylinders•, and after a third time’s parting betwen the cylinders, and Tokening in the fire, the plate is cut by the ftamp into round pieces, which, if good weight, are boiled, and fo white¬ ned in tartar, and at laft minted after this manner, Avignon. Carthu- fans • March 1. We pafs’d by S. Gervais , Bezous , S. Bonnet, and walk’d on the top of Pont du Guard , which is broad enough for a coach to pals. In feveral places are ruins of that aqueduct, which began at Uzes, two leagues from the bridge, and was continued to Nifmes. We dined at Romolin , and in the after¬ noon reach’d Avignon. Over the Rhofae we vifited the Carthu- fianscloifter in Villencuf les Avignon. This cloifter is dedicated by Innocent VI. to S. M. Vallis Benediclionis. There are two or three handfome courts and about 60 fathers and hy-brothers. There is a fair refedtory vaulted with timber. In the church hang up two excellent pictures of the fhepherds and the three kings vifiting our Saviour. The falu- tation is drawn by Guido Reni: three other pidlures by Mignard of Paris : another picture by Renatus king of Sicily, which is the crowning of the virgin Mary. In two chapels are the monuments of Inno¬ cent VI. and Petrus Cardin. Pampilonenfis, nephew to that pope : three pidlures de- feribing the execution of fome Carthu- fian friars in England in Henry VlII’s time. One monfieur le Brun , a phyfician, was very civil to us on Mr. Moulin' s ac¬ count ; and monfieur Gijfoni, an inge¬ nious fcholar who had lived in England, came and vifited us. Vol. VI. A is the ftamp with two weights of lead bb, which being turned about, comes down upon [the anvil B, and cuts, at the fame time the imprefllon is made, a piece out of the plate C. March 4. We hir’d, at 12 lb. iofols, a horfe for Lions, and rode three leagues to the paper-mills at Sorga, a little wall’d town where Ferrante Pallavicino was be¬ tray’d and apprehended by the pope’s command ; a league further we arriv’d at Orange, and there vifited M. Gulp, o«nge. profefifor, and Mr. Frelawny. Two pro- teftant temples and three minifters here. Mr. Wood, called Monfieur Sylvius, a Scotsman, is a minifter here. We had a very ftrongwind in our faces all day. March 5. We pafs’d thro* la Palus, Montedragone, and two or three villages more before we dined at the golden cha¬ riot in Pierre latte, five leagues from Orange. In the afternoon we went thro’ Donzerre, infamous for the murther of a Dutchman who lodged at the Croix d'or. Four leagues from Pierre latte we lodg’d at Monllimart, a large wall’d town, where the hugonots have a temple. The wind was very bluftring, and in our faces all this day. 8 Y March 7 26 ^A Journey thro 5 Pari of the [ France . Skippon. Tichire of a giant's skeleton. March 6 . We journey’d five leagues to Laureole , a little village, and dined at the golden crofs. Four leagues thence Valence, we came to Valence , where we lodged. At the Jacobins we faw Pere Perreufe , a very ingenious and civil man. On the wall of their cloifter is the fkeleton of a giant painted, and thefe infcriptions over it. Hcec eft effigies Gigantis Bernardi Vivarienfts tyranni ftatura 15 Cuhitorum d Cabello- nenfi Comite occifi anno .... cujus ojfta in monte Crujfeoli recondita h Dominicano Religiofo inventa prope rivum Merderii 1456 variifq\ locis difperfa , hcec ad nosuftp, pervenerunt. Hoc monumentum P.S.D.M. Conf. Reg. in fede prcefid. 1648. Ce corps dont fe Voit le Scelete Nacquit au nombre de Geans Chreftien Croy gue la mort arrefte Le plus petits if les plus grands. On the other fide of the river is the tower of a caftle which was formerly de¬ fended by the proteftants. No olive trees grow more northward than this city of Valence. On one fide of Valence , upon the higheft ground, is a double wall, and fome old earth-works. The wind extraordinary high this day. March 7. We went through Lhein, three leagues from Valence , and juft oppo- fite to Lour non, where the Jefuits have a (lately college. Two leagues further we dined at the Lion d'or in S. Valie, where gentlewomen begg’d for the ho- fpital. Two leagues thence we rode through S. Rombert , and two leagues fur¬ ther lodged at the angel in the Peage de RoJJillon. The wind continued very high this day. We * forded a league and an half off Va- ferried, lence, the river Tfere, and gave two fols marques a man. Near Lhein is a rock in the Rhone , called la Table du Roy , be- caufe this French king once dined upon it, and not far from Lbein is an hermitage where excellent wine is made. March 8. after three leagues, Vienne, we din’d at the red crofs in Vienne. Juft before we entred this city, in a corn field, we faw Pilate's pyra¬ mid made of feveral Hones, and eredled upon four pillars, thus : The fituation of Vienne is on the fide of the hills, and part of the town is on the other fide of the Rhone , over which was a wooden bridge, which is now fome- what ruin’d by the violent ftream. S. Maurice is the cathedral church, a ftately building, the front of it adorned with the figures of flints, and hath a noble afcent to it of 32 fteps. In S. Peter's church-yard are ftone fta- tues of two lions. Vide Golnitz. Two or three roman gates arc ftill re¬ maining in this city, and over one is placed a large human head of marble. The church dedicated to the virgin Mary was a romifh tribunal, and is like the maifon quarree at Nifmes , only that is longer and broader. The amphitheatre was partly on the fide of a hill, where fome of the Cavece are yet to be feen. La Gierre is a little river here, that runs into the Rhone , and is ufeful to their mills, where they make fwords, &c. They faid many anchors and coutelaces were making now for Beaufort's fleet, and they counterfeit Olinda blades. The manner of blowing the bellows, Grinding of ufing the hammer, and grinding. Fig. 1. Fig. 2. France.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 727 Lyons. Fig. 1. the water-wheel A turns about the handle B, that brings backwards and forwards a beam B C, and that again moves another beam C D, which communi¬ cates to a long beam D E placed hori¬ zontally, which 'when moved forward to¬ wards I F, or brings E to Z, and the perpendicular piece of wood along with it, and this motion lifts up the bellows F, and depreffes the bellows G, fo vice verfd, the beam I K rifing and falling, being moveable at H, and the weight of ftones on each bellows helping to deprefs them. Fig. 2. the water-wheel K turns the axis K L •, at L are cogs that lift up a great hammer L, which knocks the iron held on the anvil N. The workman can make the hammer beat fafter or flower, as he opens the fluice P by the handle O, which can alfo force down the fluice or flood gate, a R is the water. Fig. 3. V V V are grind-ftones, pafs’d through by an iron beam T T, moved by the water wheel S. When the workmen grind their fwords, &c. They lie all along on the doping boards x x x. After the fwords are beaten thin enough by the hammer M, [Fig. 2.] then they grind them here. In the afternoon we traveled two leagues, and pafs’d through S. Saforin , and rode hilly way, but went over a plain about a league before we entered Lyons. At the gates we took a billet to lodge in the city, and gave a piece of money to the fearchers, who were defirous to fee what we had in our portmanteaus. This day the wind was more favourable. It fometimes lafts with great violence a fortnight or three weeks, and always in the fame corner. At Lyons we met with Mr. James Pal¬ mer , lately turn’d Papift, and the earl of Cajllemain’s brother, the lord Clinton. Mr. Montagne (Mr. Oliver St. John ) and his lady j Mr. Sampfon Mr. JeJJop ; (Mr. IVithers , and monf. Garzin , who attended on the lord Clinton ) Mr. Elcock •, Mr. Lifter ; Mr. Abdy •, Dr. Downs ; Sir Tho. Crew Mr. Poly ; Mr. Scot, a Scotchman •, Sir Cha. Berkley , and Dr. Smith. One John Anford , a ftocken- maker who lives at Turin, was now here, going poft for England, being fent thither by the duke of Savoy. March 9. being Shrove Tuefday, N. S. in Bell-Conr were many mafquers on horfe- back, who had mallets with little hatchets faftened to them, with which they {truck at a wooden cage, wherein was enclofed a lamb •, and he that firft broke the cage and kill’d the lamb, was adjudged king ; then the trumpets founded, and he at the head of the reft, rode up and down Skippon. the ftreets. The carnival feemed very mean. We were told here how Papier marbre Marble is made *, firft they pour oil upon water, P a P er ' and on the oil are laid feveral colours ; then the paper is laid over them, and the veffel thofe liquors are in is moved to and fro, which is the reafon the paper is painted with undulated lines. We obferved an engine that raifes a An en P ne , , ^ to ratfe a nap on cloth ; mp cloth. The wheel A turns about the nut B, and that moves the board C (faftened to the top of the room by pieces of wood) to and fro, which underneath hath little iron teeth, and is lifted up and down, that it may pafs over another board D, and be wound off on the axis E. March 6 . O. S. we gave 45 livres a man, for horfes, to a mcfienger, who for that money did alfo nourifh us from Lyons to Paris, and allow’d him five fols Journey a pound for every pound our portman-^)” teau’s weigh’d, above 61 b. which he^s ° 1 carried in a fumpter-horfe. By the Coche d’eau, a conveyance by the river Saone, we fent fome of our things, and paid but three fols per lb. Dr. Moulins, Mr. Lifter, Mr. Ray and myfelf, were in pany this journey, with fome Frenchmen. We went very fiony way, and pafs’d over hills, and three leagues from Lyons pafs’d through la Brelle, and three leagues further brought us to our lodgings in Tarrara. This day we obferved oxen fliod with iron. March 7. we mounted before day, and rode over the mountain of Tarrara, where we found fnow. After three leagues riding we came through S. Savorin, and there¬ abouts obferved a perpendicular flone moved by water to bruifc hemp, held un¬ derneath by two boys. Three leagues further we dined at S. Nicolas in Roanne, and there ferried over the Loire, each giv¬ ing two fols marque. We pafs’d a plea- fant valley, and four leagues from our baiting place lodged in Pafquatidiere, a final 1 village. March 8. we rode for the mod part of four leagues hilly way, and dined at I'Efcu de France, in PaliJJe, where the count de S. Geran hath a houfe. The prefent count came thus to his eftate his uncle being 728 A Journey thro 9 Part of the [ [France , SKirroN. being next prefumptive heir, made a com- padl with a midwife, who deliver’d the prefent count’s mother, but by calling her into a ileep, the midwife perfwaded her into a belief fhe was deliver’d of a dead child, when the midwife conveyed away the little infant, who was bred up by a country woman, and being grown to fome years the countefs defired, and took him for her page, on whom fhe beftowed very good breeding •, and in the mean time the midwife, on her death-bed, confefs’d the cheat, and declar’d the page to be the countefs’s true fon. This difcovery occafion’d a great fuit between the uncle and the young heir, but at laft it was de¬ termined by the parliament of Paris in favour of die heir the countefs’s fon, who is now count de S. Geran. Four leagues from Palijfe , having tra- vell’d good way in a pleafant country, we lodged at the S. George, without the walls of Varene, a fmall town. March 9. we traveil’d feven fhort leagues, and dined at the three Moors in Moulins. Moulins , where many women came to us to fell their fciflars, knives, &c. Moulins is an indifferent city, which afforded us iittle of remark, befides the ftately mo¬ nument of Montmorency, who was be¬ headed in the Maifon de Ville at Fouloufe. The white marble flatuesof the duke and his lady lay on a tomb of black marble ; a fair marble ftatue is on each fide, and over them a marble urn, and other orna¬ ments. We rode feven leagues from Moulins in very good way (as we did in the morn¬ ing) and lodged this night without the walls of S. Pierre de Montier. Hereabouts began flony caufeys. March 10. we rode five leagues, pafs’d Nevers a ftone bridge over the river Loire, and dined at the flower de lys in Nevers, where the poor people defired us to buy their bagatells of glafs. This city is meanly built nigh the Loire , on a rifing ground, and hath an indifferent fair cathedral, where are feveral marble monuments *, the fleeple of this cathedral is handfomely adorned with flatues. An add After dinner we journeyed about two water. leagues and an half, and tafled of an acid water fpringing up plentifully in the mid¬ dle of a court wall’d about. This water is much drank in Auguft , and is reputed for curing the ftone, &c. it is near Pougue, a village. This medicinal well rifes in the level of a valley. Two leagues and an half further we reach’d la Charite , a wall’d place fituated upon the Loire over the gate we entred at is written. In Varietate Securitas flub Lilio. Our inn was handfome, the fign of the Croix d’or. March 11. we took horfe about four in the morning, and rode three leagues to Pouilly , where we drank wine that place is noted for. Four leagues thence we dined at Cofne, a wall’d place, reputed fordog- fkin gloves. In the afternoon we tra veil’d five leagues to Bony, and one league and an half further lodged in Briare, a fmall wall’d town. At this place begins a chan¬ nel cut from the Loire to the Seine, the water being kept up by locks or fluices. On the other fide of the Loire, in Berry, and about two leagues from Cofne, is San- cerre, a town fituated upon a hill, for¬ merly a flrong place, and well defended by the Proteftants about 90 years ago : they held out fo long that they under¬ went the greateft miferies of famine, fome women digging up their children they bu¬ ried three or four days before. See Tbuan. Hift. I.55. Anno 1572. p.915, &c. We met on the road many Savoyards, who were chimney-fweepers at Paris, &c. They come oft' the mountains of Savoy in the beginning of winter, and return in the fpring. March 12. we rode four leagues, and dined at the Efcu de France, in la Bufiere, a fmall village. Seven leagues further we lodged in Montargis, a city where we Montargis, faw nothing worth our obfervation. An indifferent caflle Hands here on a hill ; archbifhop of this city and the king fend a governor. In the road we took notice of many thatch’d houfes, and pretty country houles, with high and ileep roofs covered with flate. Alarch 13. we travell’d about five leagues, and had on our right hand Pont a Gajjon, a wall’d town, and a league thence dined at the angel, or maifon rouge, a houfe that Hands in the open fields. In the afternoon we went over a plain fowed with corn, and five leagues from our bait pafs’d by Milly, a large wall’d place on our left hand, and one fhort league thence arrived at Corrance, where we lodged. This afternoon we faw on our right hand the wood of Fountain Bleau. March 14. we rode about a league, and pafs’d among rocks, where travellers are often robb’d. About two or three leagues further we faw on our right hand Corbilly, a city in a valley, with many villages round it. Seven leagues from Corrance we dined at Juvifli, at the fign of the golden-lion. Three leagues thence we pafs’d through Ville Juifue, and there on the top of a hill, had a profped of Paris, PARIS, where we fafely arrived after we had tra¬ vell’d two leagues more, On France."] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 729 On our left hand we had a fair hofpital •, from Corbilly to Parts is a caufeway in a ftrait line, and well paved with fquare pebbles. Stoneqnar- Nigh Paris we obferved feveral Hone quarries, where the workmen hoift up Itones after this manner. tries. Ad II ~er~ C A fellow Heps up the cogs of the wheel A, and turns the axis B, which winds up the cord C that is faltned to the done D. This Hone is of very great advantage to the city of Paris , for were it not thus plentiful, the buildings would be but in¬ different. We ftaid in this city till April 1, 1666. too lliort a time for fo great and remark¬ able a place j but the French king’s decla¬ ration of war again ft England , commanded 11s out of France within three months after the proclamation thereof, which was on the firft of February , N. S. What I could obferve during my ftay here, I haftily put in writing, viz. Every V/ednefday is a horfe-market in Fauxbourg S. Victor , and every Saturday at port Richelieu. At Mont Alar ire is made the plaifter call’d plaifter of Paris , and they have this faying about it i II y a plus de M. Martre d Paris, que de Paris d M. Martre. College of Cardinal Mazarin left a great legacy to four na- build the college of four nations •, Italian , tions. French , Spanijh and German \ a good part of it was now finifhed, the front is llatcly made like a theatre, and it fronts towards the Louvre , being placed on the oppofite fide of the river Seine. Sorbonne. The Sorbonne college is a magnificent ftruclure. The doftors wear black gowns, and when exercifes are performed they wear a white furr which hangs thwart the breaft. Another college call’d college de . where youth are inftrudted by the doctors of Sorbonne. It is near Clermont college. L’hoftel de Uhoftel de Ville en la place de Grave is Viiic. an old and fair building. FontNcuf. Pont Neuf in the middle is joined to the ifland Notre Dame church ftands in. The brafs ftatue of Hen. IV. on horfc- back, made by Bologna (who is buried at the Annunciates in Florence ) ftands in the middle of the bridge, having inferiptions Vol. VI. and bajfi relievi about deferibing his vie- Skih-on. tories, C?r. Place Dauphine is a triangular piazza, placeDau- built very uniform, and juft in light of phine. Hen. IVth’s ftatue ; Rue de Ilarlay is be¬ hind that piazza, where all the houfes are of the fame building. Place Royalle is an uniform fquare, very PlaceRoy- neat, having a green court railed about, andafmall portico under all the houfes; In the middle ftands the Statua Equeflris of Lewis XIII. I tranferibed one of the inferiptions in French , viz. Pour le Juft. Sonnet Ffue ne pent la Vertu , pile ne peut la Courage J'ay domte pour jamais I'herefie en fon port Du Page impieux , j'ay fait trembler le Bond Et du Rhin jufq' a I'Ebre acreu mon heritage J'ay fauve par men bras l'Europe d'Efclavage Et fi tant de Eravaux neuffent bafie mon fort J'euffe attaque l' Afie et d'unpieux effort J'euffe du faint tombeau vange le long fervage , Armand, le grand Arm and. fame de mes Exploits Porta de toutes partes mes armes LI mes lots Donna toute l'efclat aux rayons de magloire Enfin il m'efeva ce pompeux monument On pour rendre a fon nom mernoire pour memoire Je Veux qidavec le mien il vive inceffament. Notre Dame is a fair church, with rt N. D.ime* handfome front, adorned with ftatues, and two flat fteeples, from which is a good profpedt of the city. Several colours hang - up in this church, two of them were taken from the Englifh. The Baftille is like the tower at London Baftillc. for prifoners of ftate. where the king gives them allowance. It is near port S. Antoine. The Arfenal confifts of many courts, Arfcnal. and has fair walks in a garden nigh the city-wall. S. Germain Auxerrois is a pretty church s - Gcr * nigh the Louvre , and is called the king’s main Au:,> parifii church. The Euilleries is the garden belonging to the Louvre , which they would permit no ftrangers to fee at this time. The Louvre gallery is 900 feet long ; Lo.ivre under half the length of it are ftables. Before the Louvre gallery, not far from Pont des Thuilleries , flood an old tower call’d la Four des Anglois , which was thrown down the laft year. Some fay the preceding kings durft not throw it down, becaufe of a prophecy that France fhould then be conquered. The Louvre will be a vaft place when it is finifhed, that fide towards the river, and the end towards the Phuilleries is already built. Donee totum impleat orbem. And, Vir¬ tu ti Regis inviefiffmi, inferibed or feveral parts of the Chafleau de Louvre. 8 Z In 73 ° Suitpon. J n the Jefuits church, Rue S. Anthpinc , is Lewis XIII’s heart kept in a golden church. cafe held up by two (liver angels. In the fame church is a fair altar, with about four brals figures or ftatues, being the monu¬ ment ol this prince ot Conde’s rather. s. Clou. I rode out of the city two leagues to S. Clou, where madams Henrietta dutchefs of Orleans, our king Charles lid’s filter, hath a palace and gardens. In the parifh church of S. Clou is a fpiral marble pillar, and infcriptions to Hen. III. whofe heart is kept here. In a chapel under the choir is the old monument of S. Clou. Ver failles. Two leagues thence we came to Verfailles , a pretty pleafure-houle built by monfieur Foucquet. Here rare birds and other ani¬ mals are kept, but the Concierge would not let us fee them, or the rooms or the houfe, becaufe we had no ticket from monfieur .In the rooms they fay are cabi¬ nets and looking-glades, &c. curioufiy adorned with filver fillioree work. Here O I faw Lewis XIV. and his queen, attended by a foot company ol Swifs , armed with back, bread: and head-piece, a company of Swifs , with halberds, and a company of French foot, befides his guard in livery on horfeback, arm’d with carbines. The king hath a'fo a guard of younger bro¬ thers, who lerve him voluntarily, and wear whitiili coats with filver lace ; they carry muskets. Out of thefe the king oftentimes choofes his officers. The lord Dowglas was formerly the French king’s page, who at this time com¬ manded a regiment of Scots , which the king of England fent for over upon the declaration of war between France and England. Every Monday comes out the journal des Sfavans , a pamphlet written by one Galloyer a Parijian , and but a young man. M onpeur Monfieur Joncquet is profeffor in the joncqucc. king’s garden, which is a handfome large place, but that at Montpellier is bigger and more pleafant. Mm/tur Monfieur Marchand , formerly an apo- M.acnaa.!. jfficcary, hath travell’d fome parts of the Levant , and is very skilful in herbs •, he hath the bed: hortus Siccus that we ever fiw, the plants being neatly faftned on with a glew, which he freely told us was thus made, viz. Take of Ietbyocolla and zy.oAAx ana, cut thefe fmall, and then boil them with Colocynthe , and after¬ wards dilTolve all in vinegar. Among the dry’d plants Medica Ciliaris & ferrum equinum Jiliqiid multiplici , are moil re¬ markable. We met accidentally with one monf. Crock , a phyfician in Amiens , who feemed to be a very ingenious perfbn. [France. In a dirty narrow ftreet call’d Rue de la Ferranerie , we faw the well which Ravil - lac ilood againft when he ftabb’d Hen. IV. the king’s footmen going through S. Innocent's church-yard, which is jult by. S. Innocent's church-yard hath many 5. i n no- charnell houfes round about, and it is ob- cent’*, lervable that none of the graves there are digg’d much above one foot and an half deep, and yet the fieffi of the dead bodies is fuddenly confumed by the earth, which is of a chalky nature. When they make new graves, they fometimes meet with whole coffins, but the fieffi quite confumed within them. In Lent time no butchers can fell flefli, the hofpital having the gain’ of all the fieffi that is eaten at Paris in this feafon, which mull be a confiderable profit, if they always, as they did this Lent , fell beef at eight fols per lb. Jan. 26, N. S. the French king de- French dared war againft England , and had this Mag's war expreftion in his declaration, commanding his fubjedts de Courre Sus les Anglois , which En S and " made mod of us then in his country ap¬ prehend danger, as was reprefented by the lord embaftador Hollis , in a letter, after two mefiages to the French king’s minifter of ftate. Whereupon a fecond declaration was publiffi’d Feb. t. commanding us to retire out of France within three months. While we were at Paris the French king forbad, in a printed paper (fixed up in feveral parts of the cityj all commerce with the Englijh. S. Eujlace is a fair and large church. $. F.ufhce, Valdegrace is a new church, building at Valdc- the expence of the late queen-mother of grace. France ; it hath a handfome afeent up to it by feveral Hone fieps, which lead into a portico in the front of the church •, it is made after the Italian faffiion, and hath a cupola between the choir and the nave. That queen’s heart is buried here. The Carthufians have a great cloifter in Carthu- the Fauxbourg S. Germains, and have large ^ans. walks. Luxembourg is a (lately palace, and very Luxcm- uniformly built; it hath fair and largebourg. walks like thofe of the Roman Villa:, where all perfons may walk with freedom. Mudamoifelle.princefsof Horn, the prince of Conde's fifter, lives here. Every hour of the day there pafies a hackney coach from the Place Royalle to Luxe?nbourg Houfe, and another coach goe.s from Rue S. Honore to Rue S. Jaques, where the bookfellers live. Every one pays five fols for his place, but goes with other company, and for that reafon it is not ufual for perfons of any quality to go in them. A journey thro J Vdft of the Palais France .] Low-Countries, Germany, Ita Iy, and France. 731 Palais Car- Palais Cardinal is a fair palace with dlu T handfome walks. Here madame Henrietta the dutchefs of Orleans lives. At one fide of this houfe is a publick ftage where the Italian and French comedians a Cl by- turns. I faw here II maritaggio d'una Comedies. S.tatua , a merry play, where the famous buffoon Scaramuccio aCted. Three antick dances pleafed the fpeCtators. The Ffuat- treScaramuccie was another pleafmt Italian comedy. We flood in the part err e, or pit, and paid 30 fols apiece for feeing the firu, and but 15 fols for the laft. We faw a French comedy entitled, L'ejlourdie , which was better a died than we expedfed. We paid for feeing this, and ftanding in the pit, 15 lols a man. In the Marais du Femple are another company of French adlors, who have ma¬ chines to move their fcenes. Monfieur Le Dauphin hath his company of boys, who they fay abt very well. Sdc des The Sale des Machines in the Louvre is Machines, made like that at Modena , and by the fame workman Gafpar Vigarini •, this is larger, and the roof of the theatre richer gilt; they fay it will hold 5000 people, and that at Modena but 3000 •, one of the machines moves a hall, with the king and courtiers. The fea is well reprefented in one machine. Noblemens houfes are called Hoftels, and over their gates are always written tire names of them, as Hod el des Ambaffa- deurs near the Luxembourg •, Hofiel de Sully is in Rue S. Antoine •, Hoftel de Vendofme in Rue S. Honore. jVlathurins The Mathurins are the Padri di Rif- chatto , and are thus call’d in Paris be- caufe S. Mathurin ’s body was formerly kept here, which is fince carried to the place where he was born, called Archant , a village in Gaftinois. In the cloifter here is a tomb-ftone, with a fphere on it, and round about it this infeription ; De Sacrcbofco qui computifta Joannes Te vapor a diferevit jacet , hie a tempore raptus '■Tempore qui fequeris memor ejlo quod morieris Si mifer es plora , miferanspro me precor ora. Cermont Clermont college is a fair, fquare and college. call building that belongs to the Jefuits, who teach here in feveral fchools about 2000 boys, many of which are gentle¬ mens fons penfion’d here, having leveral halls to dine in, and long chambers to lodge in •, they fiy about 400 boys live here in this manner, and are not buffered to go out of the gate without leave. M any of the fcholars wear colour’d gowns, fafnion’d like the fophiilers in Cambridge , and they have large velvet (round) caps when they learn logick, and fquare caps when they read philofophy. At a difpute SicirpoN- we faw the duke of Guife , a young lad. One father ..a Scotchman , pro¬ cured us the fight of the machines de- feribing excellently well the motions of the planets, according to the fyftems of Pto- lomy , Tycho Brahe , Copernicus , and the Semi Copernicans. Several forts of clock- °f dock- dials for a day, month, year, and one for the platonick year, which were all moved by one and the fame machine that moves the foremention’d fpheres of Ptolomy, &c. invented by father D’ Arrouis. Le Palais is in the fame ifle with Notre Le Palait. Dame , where the courts of judicature fit *, the lawyers wear black gowns and fquare caps. In the hall are many fhops and gal¬ leries. One Varennes is the only Proteftant bookfeller here, who, to fignify whether mafs is faid or not, hangs out a paftboard having on one fide the letter N. and on the other the letter 0 . for No and Ouy, i. e. Yes. This is taken notice of by the Proteftants that come to the hall, that they may avoid the elevation of the hoft. Efchelle du Temple is a great ladder that E/chclIcdu Hands in the corner of a ltreet not far from c ‘ the place where the Templars formerly lived. The chief ftreets are ; 1. Rue S. Ja-chief ques •, 2. Rue S. Martin *, 3. Rue Mont-d reets - martyre \ 4. Rue S. Denis 5. Rue S. Honore. There are 10 Fauxbourgs , or fuburbs ; 20 gates; 11 bridges •, 600 ftreets in the city and fuburbs ; more than 32000 houfes •, and above 100 religious houfes, or convents. At the Gobelins is a houfe where tapeftry is made. Nigh port S. Honore the lord Hollis , Englijh ambaflador, dwelt. Englijhmen at this time in Paris ; earl Englifti- of Bedford’s fons •, earl of Alisbury and his ma¬ lady, and lord Bruce and family ; the earl of Effex and his lady ; lord George Berldy and his lady ; lord Wharton’s two fons ■, Mr. Clifford their governor ; lord Neuport’ s two fons ; Mr. Lany, born in France •, Mr. John Palmer •, Mr. Dajh- sjcood •, Dr. Jeanes\ colonel Doughty, who was projecting about the tanning trade •, Mr. Henchman ■, Mr. GoJ'nall •, Mr. Cage, Ro. C. who belongs to the queen-mother of England •, major Carter , a Roman Catholick, and his wife, nurfe to the prin¬ ce fs Henrietta ; Sir Tho. Arby and his fon, Ro. C. Colonel Napier , his lady and fon, Ro. C. Sir Tho. Lyddall and his lady, filter to the late Sir Henry Vane ; Sir Tho. Crew •, Dr. Ward •, Mr. Ilowlett ; Mr. Abdy Dr. Downes •, Mr. Havers ; lord Mohun i Mr. Drury , who wrote the French news book in Oliver Cromwel’s time j 73 2 Journey j/jra’ of the [ France .. Skippon'. time ; Mr. Honywood, and Mr. JVilde- l/VV* goofe, merchants ; Sir. Colladon, do&or of phyfick, his lady, fon, and daughters. One Lejly, who built the tavern-boat on the ‘Thames , was projecting how to cleanfe Paris ftreets. Few or no beggars in The porters are called Crocheteers, who have this wooden device to carry things on their back. At Charenton, one Sunday, we heard monfieur Morns, and monfieur. preach. Their temple is a long fquare building of ltone, tall roof’d and lightfome, dou¬ ble galleries round. Here we faw marfhal de Turenne, and monfieur Rouuigny , who is delegate from the French Proteftants to the court, where they fay he is a favourite. Madame.is to be conducted by him, i. e. Rouuigny into Portugal, being defigned queen of Portugal. The minifters that preach at Charenton, are, i. Monf. Daillie 2. Monf. lincourt •, 3. Monf. Morus . They preach every Thurfday, unlefs there be a holiday in the week, and then they take that inftead of Thurfdny , to preach on. La Charitc La Charite is a fair hofpital for men in Fauxbourg S. Germain. The Cordeliers have a long church nigh port S. Germain. lie fair oj 1 'he fair of S. Germain begins the 3d n h ~ X ~ and holds all the Lent the place the fair is kept in, is a large fquare houfe with fix or feven rows of fhops, where cuftomers play at dice when they come to buy things i the commodity is firft: bought, and then they play who fhall pay for it. After candle-lighting is the greateft gaming, fometimes the king comes and dices. Here we faw the pic¬ ture of our Saviour’s afcenfion, S. Peter , S. Paid, and two angels ; it was made by Antonio Moro, who lived in Charles V’s time ; it is valued at 200 pifloles. The frame is curioufly carved, and very richly gilt. Theatins. The Tbeatins have a fair church and cloifcer, a building by the river’s fide, fome diftance below the college of four nations i cardinal Mazarin gave a legacy for the erecting this convent. Bridges . i. Pont S. Michel. 2. Pont aux Change. 3. Pont Notre Dame ^ and 4. Petit Pont have fhops on each fide. The Pont Notre Dame is a very uniform ftreet. 5. Pont .fome years ago had many of its houfes at one end, tumbled down in the night by a violent ftream of the river. Every one without a fword pays two livres that paffes over. 6. Pont de Bois , * which joins the ifle Notre Dame church Hands in to ifle Notre Dame , where are new and handfome ftreets. An Englijlo boat rowed by 12 men (two of them EngliJfj) in this river, and belongs to madame the dutchefs of Or¬ leans. The king hath one or two plea- fure boats. Crofs feveral ftreets of Paris , hang lit¬ tle bells and chains, which are rung when thieves break into houfes in the night-time. At the dancing on the ropes we law a woman for a quarter of an hour turn round and round on her feet, having two naked fwords in her hands, which fhe plac’d in feveral poftures as fhe turn’d about; when fhe had done, fhe made a low curtefy without any ftaggering, and walk’d off the ftage very fteddily, and without the leaft reeling. The Chafielet is a prifon not far from Chaftdct. Pont aux Change , where men are clapt up for debt, and fometimes criminal matters. Such as are found murder’d in the ftreets are brought hither, and ex¬ pos’d to view that they may be known. Vade in Pace is a clofe prifon in con¬ vents, where they keep fuch as have been profefs’d of their order, and are turn’d proteftants: They feed them with bread and water, and there let them lie fometimes all their days: It is like a dun¬ geon, having only fome light from the top, whence their meat is let down. A Frenchman at the firft fight will be General very civil and familiar, and prefently will °N er " ja r ~ c J \ • • 3 J 1 turns cf the iorget his acquaintance with you ; they tvcuc ]i. will ask whether you are of the religion, i. e. Proteftant • or of the Eglife , i. e. Roman Catholick religion, the firft time you fall into their company • and enquire where you made your cloaths, what they coft, If you employ a porter, £ 3 c. and not agree with him beforehand what he fhall have, he will go awa\ T grumbling tho’ you give him more than he could have expedted, a bargain firft made. None but gentlemen, or fuch as have been officers in the army, can wear fwords, i 3 c. when they travel. The French women are generally bad houfewives, minding their cloaths and dreffing moft, which they will have in fafhion ; and the humour of obferving modes muft be latisfied, in both fcxcs, tho’ their bellies pinch for it, for in moft families their diet is both coarfe and flender. France, j Low-Countries, Germany, Italy and France. (lender. The women drink ufually water, and (ometimes a little wine; they have a breeding lb free, that in England we Ihould efteera it immodeft ; the hugonot as well as popifli ladies, fpot and paint sheir faces, (which fome of their mini- iters do not approve of) and in a word, they agree too much in their morals. Swearing and curfing, with the addi¬ tion of obfcene words, are cuftomary in both fexes. Yet there are fome men and women among the hugonots that are truly religious. Look on a French woman, and you fhall fee her (tare you in the face, w'ftch is a confidence that better becomes the men, who feldom or never are put out of countenance. The French are ftrangely impatient at all games, efpecially at cards, which transports fome that lofe into a rage, and they make a dreadful noife with btafpheming, curfing and fwearing in a horrid manner. At this time moft people complained of their king’s impofing taxes, &c. yet they feemed to boaft of him, and were proud to think themfelves fubjedts to an abiolute monarchy. Shirking is as (or more) natural to a French- man as his oaths, and tho’ his car¬ riage be free, yet he is ftingy enough of his purfe, and will fooher lofe a friend than a folmarque, and fmall intereftswill govern his affections. Exceptis exc'tpi - endis. Malefactors receive their fentences on their knees, which pronounced, the hangman prefently ties a rope about their necks, and conveys them to the prifon, whence, after confeffion, they are immediately hauled to the gallows * fo that fometimes they are condemned in the morning and hanged before night. If one hath endeavoured to kill another, and that the affaulted perfon lives, yet the juftice of France (they (ay) will condemn the other to die, taking the will for the deed. The marquifs de VAnge a proteftant, and reputed a flout man, was divorced not long fince, from his wife, a very handfome and vertuous woman. She, after fome years, complained to her friends, that the marquifs was not able to get her with child: This rqade fo me difturbance among the relations; but at laft (when phyficians, had given in their teftimonies, they could perceive no external fault in either) it was agreed by both parties, they (hould prepare themfelves, and a day was appointed for the phyficians to be not far off; but not¬ withstanding all the endeavours of the Vol. VI. marquifs, it was concluded by a decree Ssn po\*. of parliament, that they might be ^ divorced. The lady is fince married to another; and hath children by him, and the marquifs hath another wife, and hath got her often with child. April 7. S. N. After dinner, and juft as Mr. How let. Dr. Ward , Mr. Wray , Dr. Moulins , Mr. Lifter and myfelf, were going out of our lodging, towards the Cbafte Maree (a kind of a cart, that fetches fifh from Calais ) one of the French king’s officers, a captain de Guet , asked for monfieur Moulins , and while he exchanged two or three words with him, he let his bafton (which he had under his cloak, in two or three pieces) together, and prefently came in eight or ten mufqueteers, who feized on Dr. Moulins , and hurried him away in a fedan to the baftile ; the captain firft read the order or warrant commanding him to apprehend one Moulins, wherefo- ev£r he could find him. Mr. Howlet , Dr. Ward and Mr. Kay, went away this day for England ; but Mr. Lifter and myfelf, not liking that way of travelling by the Chajfte Mark, ftaid a little longer in Paris ; in which time we could not learn any thing con¬ cerning the imprifonment of Dr Moulins, only gueffes were made that his chief crime was, he had lived too long among the French proteftants in Languedoc • and that the French king fufpeCfed he might difeover the prefent inclinations of that party after his arrival in Eng¬ land, he being very intimate with fome of good quality that were dilcontented with the prefent manage of affairs in France. Dr. Mou¬ lins im- prifon- When O. C. was protedlor, there hap¬ pened this accident at Niftmes ; the pro¬ teftants having a right to chufe magi- ftrates, the popiffi party were refblved to hinder them by force on the day of election, and had fome of the king’s guards, and all the papifts, in arms, Handing ready about the town-houfe; the proteftants, they alfo armed in great numbers, and one proteftant gentleman being nigh the door that led into the Mai/on de Ville, had a piftol in his hand, and being demanded why he ftood in that pofture, anfwered to defend their privileges; then they commanded him to deliver up his arms, which he refufing, the guard lhot him dead, which gave fuch an alarm to the proteftants, that they immediately fired at the guard and others, and killed the bifhop of Nifmes’s nephew, and then turn’d the guards and the reft of the papifts out of the city; after that they began to fortify, and had 9 A many 734 A Journey thro Skippon. mnn y of their friends come in daily to their affiftance from the Severnies , &c. But fome more confiderate perfons con¬ futing what was to be done, at laft refolved to fend Dr. Moulins , then in Nifmes , into England , and acquaint the prote&or with it, and to defire his inter- ceflion with the court of France ; fo Dr. Moulins immediately and privately rode away for Lyons , in bitter fnowy weather, and in eight days arrived in England , having firft waited upon lord Lockhart the Englijh ambaffador. In this journey Dr. Moulins rode poll with a Frenchman , that feeing the poft- boy fall down dead with the extremity of cold, opened his codpiece, and rub’d his Membrum virile with fnow, till he recovered him, which he did in a little time, and the boy was able again to ride poll. Dr. Moulins flay’d but a very fhort time at London , and then returned with Secre¬ tary Thurlo’s letters to the Englijh ambaf- lador and cardinal Mazarine • the poft- feript of the letter to cardinal Mazarin , was written with the protedlor’s own hand 3 the words were to this effedl- As you Jhew kindnefs to the proteftants , fo you have me your friend or your foe. Dr. Moulins upon his arrival at Paris , delivered the letters to the ambaflador, within a fhort time 3 he attended on the ambaflador to the cardinal’s, who read the letter, and then had fome private conference with Lockhart , and then Mou¬ lins was called in, who heard the car¬ dinal promife to the ambaflador, the proteftants at Nifmes fhould not be meddled with, and added, Mr. Ambafl- fador. Ton know France is not in a con¬ dition to deny England any thing. Ac¬ cordingly orders were fent exprefs to flop the troops which were marching againft Nifmes , and within a day’s march of the place when they received the orders. Dr. Moulins fent a note for fome lin- nen to our lodging, and Mr. Lifer re¬ turned by the meffenger a little billet, which only condoled his misfortune, but the captain of the guard at the Baflile tore it in pieces. All this while we heard no crime laid to his charge. He was kept a prifoner at the king’s charge, and well dieted. After the city of London was burnt, the Trench king fent a courtier, I think Ro- mingny , to Moulins , to acquaint him he fhould make any province in France his prifbn, if he would give fecurity of a great fum of money, not to go out of it, which he faid he was not able to give. Some time after, the king offered him all France for his prifon upon the c Part of the [ France . faid fecurity 3 to which he anfwered as before. At laft the king fent for him, and told him he had done him no wrong, and then bid him begone out of France with¬ in a fortnight. This relation I had from Dr. Moulins after his coming into England. i he Romiflo Galilean church, confifts The Jlate at prefent of 14 archbifhopricks, which °f the Re ~ are, 1. Lyons. 2. Ambrun. 3. Auchs 4- "tlTchulh Arles. 5. Tours. 6 Rheims. 7. Bourdeaux. of France. 8. ‘Tholoufe. 9. Bourges. 10. Narbonne. 11. Aix. 12. Vienne. 13. Rouen. 14 Paris. Under thefe archbifhopricks are 85 fuf- fragan bilhopricks, which contain 7000 parlonages, priories, and parifhes, above 1140 commanderies of Malta , 157000 chapels, befides 557 abbeys of fryers, and above 700 convents of Cordeliers, exclufive of the Carmelites, Jacobins, Auguftines, Carthufians, Coeleftines, Je- fuits. Minims, and other religious orders, who poflefs 14077 convents. To thefe clergy belong 259000 farms, and 17000 acres of vineyards, which are by them leafed out in France , not rec¬ koning 3000 acres, from which they take the third and the fourth. The revenue of the faid church is eftimated at 920000 crowns per annum , exclufive of the refervations in their leafes, which amount to 120000 crowns, confifting of three pieces each. The faid calculation w r as made by or¬ der of the affembly of the clergy of France , held in the Auguftines convent, at the end of Pont-Neuf, in Pans , the 16th of November 1635. April -77 Mr. Poley, Mr. Lifer , and my felf, gave 18 livres a man, for our places in a coach waggon that will hold eight perfons. We had in the coach with us one of Geneva (a Genevrite , as they vulgarly call them) who had lived many years, and married a wife in Ve¬ nice^ but the laft year the inquifition took notice of fome that were pri¬ vately proteftants, and clap’d two in¬ to prifon. This man had knowledge of their delign, and therefore prefently re¬ tired out of Venice , and undertook a journey for London , where he refolved to end his days. We had alfo in the coach a flout young Swedifo foldier, who had flolen away a wench, and that morning we fet forward, three Frenchmen , pretending themfelves the king’s officers, attempted to g-et her away, and carry him to pri¬ fon, becaufe he had habited the wench (which he fometimes called his wife) in mens cloths 3 but the Swede outvapour’d them, and turn’d them down flairs, and went after them, hectoring them all the way France.'] Low-Countries, Germany, Italy, and France. 735 way to the inn-gate. When he came to London , I met with this Swede , and ask’d him in Italian where was his Bella Don¬ na, he replied he had difmifs’d her, and faid, Jo tengo una pin bell a , i. e. I have got a handfomer. This day we rode thro’ S. Dennis , four leagues from Paris , and four leagues fur- Beaumont ther lodg’d in Beaumont , a little town fituated by the river Loazze. We obferved fome few vineyards this day. April 2. We travell’d five leagues, and dined at the white crols in Tilliar, Beauvais, and three leagues further lodg’d in Beau¬ vais, a large town, but the houfes low and built of wood. The royal manufacture here employs 400 or 500 men in weaving tapiftry, having feveral looms in long chambers, and painters are invited hither, to draw the pictures that are to be woven. We obferved thofe that weave, have the piCture they work juft underneath the tapiftry they are weaving. The cathedral in this city is not fini- fhed. The choir is built like thofe in England , very high and handlome, both within and without. A large piazza in this town. The ordinary women in thefe parts, have an odd head drefs. A is a kind of rowl behind their c heads, b b are wires covered b with linnen, that go on each fide, c ano¬ ther veire that comes over the top of the head to the forehead. April 3. After fix leagues riding, we st. Puy. dined at S. Puy , then three leagues brought us to Pois , a village where the duke of Crecqui hath a caftle. April 4. We went five leagues, and dined in Airaines a great village, and after dinner rode four leagues more to Abbeville, ylbbeville, a large town built with wood¬ en houfes. Good guns and piftols made in this city. Three or four large piazza here. S. Ulfranc is the chief church, a tall {tone building not yet finifhed. The river Somme crofles the city in three places little veflels of 80 tuns come up hither, the fea being but three leagues off. Between Airaines and Abbeville , we pafs’d by a fort called Oudenaerd. April$. We rode five leagues, and dined in Berneil , a village five leagues Mont- thence, and lodged in Montreuil , a gar- reuil. rifon town, indifferently built, but well paved and fortified ; where we entered, there was a treble wall and good ditches, and where we went out, was a fteep defeent into a marfhy ground. April 6. We travelled two leagues very bad w'ay to Fran, a fmall village, and after dinner rode hilly way, five leagues Skippon. to Bologne , a city built on a hill. The fuburb is called the Bajje Ville , where B °‘° srK ’ we lodged. A little fea port here. All the way in this journey from Paris, w'e bargain’d for our meat before meals, and at night did the like, or elfe bought it out of the tooks fhops^ paying only for our lodging, ufc of table-linen, in the inn. Picardy is a great corn country. April. 7. Saturday. We rode bad hilly- way, three leagues to Marquife , a vil¬ lage, and four leagues further to Calais. Half a league before we came into the town, we defeended into the fenny coun¬ try about it. We pafs’d alfb by a ftrong citadel, and among many little cottages which are uled (as fome told us) for peft-houfes in time of infection. Entring Calais , the guards only examined how many Englijh and French we were in the coach. April 8. After taking a pafsport from the Juge-major , and our things fearch’d, we delivered our pafsport without the gate, and entering the Englijh packet- boat, fail’d two hours S. W. to gain the wind, and in three hours, without once changing board, we fafely arrived at Dover - 3 a boat fetching us a fhore. My lord marquis of Douglas and many Scots came over in the fame packet-boat with us. A fearcher and a fellow that took our names at Dover, had their fees. Monday , April 9. I took poft with colonel Napier his fon, and my lord Napier, and rode 15 miles to Canterbury , ( n r where we law the cathedral, which is a ^ ur y. fair building 3 fteps lead up into the choir, and other fteps up to the altar - and behind that are two or three afeents to the upper end. We were fhewn the place Thomas Becket was thrown down, and the ftones coloured,as the papifts fay, with his blood. The church under the choir is ufed by the Walloons , who are confiderable in this city. The window in the north wing of the church was cu- rioufly painted. There is old painting on wood, which reprefents the manner how ‘Thomas Becket was killed : The ftones where his fhrine was, are worn away, they fay, with peoples kneeling. About 22 bifhops are buried in this church. I obferved the monument of Sir Thomas Thornhurfl , killed at the ifle of Kec. Bifhop Cbichely, who is repre- fented by his figure in epifcopal habit, and by a ftone skeleton very well made. Henry IV. and his queen, lay on a fair tomb. Nicholas Wotton , the firft pro- teftant dean- A plain monument, with¬ out any infeription, faid to be cardinal Chajlillons 73 d A Journey thro ’ Part of, &c. Skippon. ChaJHllons. Dcpoftum Poll. Bifhop ^V Courtney's and bifhop 'Theorbos monu¬ ments. The black prince’s brafs figure, on a tomb. William Prudes , Efq; who died at Maeflricht 1632. Sir "James Hales buried in the Tea, as he was going ambafifador to Portugal 1596. The mo¬ nument of: * * • * duke of Clarence , earl of Somerfet , fecond fon to Henry IV. At Canterbury we took frefh horfes for Sittingbourn , and from thence I took a frefh horfe, with a poft-boy, and rode thro 5 Hollingbourne , and nine miles from Sittingbourne , arrived in fafety at Lmfa- Abby , Sir William Meredith's houfe, whence I began my travels, Frwfay 16. 1663. DEO OMNIPOTENTI MAXIMAS REDDIT GRATIAS P. S. We fhall fill up this vacant place with the following curious piece, which we had otherwile thoughts of omitting, becaufe of the obfervation of its being imperfefr, accord¬ ing to the fubfequent note indorfed on the copy by our author ; viz. 45 This was tranfcribed c ‘ faultily by the library-keeper, and by his copy I wrote this out, at Venice, 1663.” ’Kt) Apjcj^cd ’A apygv)&' yxysohiov©* SexaTy Iq'ocydvv txTCKnaia, vjugyevovl®- exx^naixs Tngjiv Meva.vSp(§y MevdrSfu MgA 1 Jt. ’E 7 r«(f’ Eu( 3 oh@* A Yiysiilgfu MctppQwiQ* tp 7? rr oip'ya.is epQcco? e^«£pTOJ'»6/7 xaAws Xj aidetr’^tCpei ccpi^naxe ytTfr tv l/iv ^ rrcov acMwv avvGeaioov 'KOLV'TUWcy Aws x) 'jrpZ'KOvl&S (bgy@eocu.g aim TrpbsTov Tlcc.va.Qn- vcciois sTriwou, t Snygatov AQnv'xunv gp ^VlAco tTiy/fen, Uj ^pucra (fKpcti’ct) avctyspovy^vcn tv Iqs isvoti 'Osa.Tpqj 7 rpea(Ztuaa.s rf irhiovccxie, ^ oc.yoiviaccy.evos exdevous vroMco Tcov %pYicny.o)V 'AQyvcciois aois tv SnAu g 7 rg£/g 7 ro/W /gpgus ag yivbyzvos tosv yzyxAwv Gg&V ^ W,Air 7v ’ AaxAmnv Xj nrzAiv aipeohcu otto tv Snyn £ Aa-^ciTos tv A lovtiau chf ’ey. luv ISicav yeyxXcts SbC'rmvnaa.s 7 royims f) aa's 'EMwrfc'r apia. 3 ^ P cnycticnv jcaTAcws xj le&nrpeTn !vtms cvveaiMcev oufoo Gvvo^ny©^ (pccivyfcu toTs aVa^/as axo(^»jAss a,jctG>i tu^oi, 01 3 Ao^oAsjtki / 3 vA>i tv eXoi^ovJos rocs 7rposfft/s £ eis aw tTrizoviv e%pnyd']mrev Twpirou t^J’ ep In xoivn /SvA>i eis r S'vyov 6 ti S'oy.ei r rn /3aA?f (j-gfpapcuerai ’Eu/3«AgV AvyUTg/ov Mag^irSonoj/ Ten Upp tv Arv q-gtpotrw a-Tiv ^ tvexev *) euvo'iocs eis t J nyov y^ai^ r mvrirrou Stx.cc 7rpea$tis r\Si y.g/.aioi Tirts e7reAQov]es tis r ’A9>inis avy@v?dip X) ex.x’h.naiocv amc^yxocXtavai r Snyov avvean^opmcztt tv?s ^n^'tr/ug- vots ’Eu^aAw ^(Aar0j3W7rois to' ->^n H^axheip ci 7 rptaf 2 eis Tins ’AQwas to rJg 5 ^ j^e£pfdr»Ta.t avGg^rjplas evyngji®* Tig ^tvctpih.©* v rg©^ Awju,)iT£/@i Ma£pi0oVi@« gTrE^? 1 *^ ^ ’AMvnaiv tv(U A» KAioStyt©* igpgCs A lopua-ff. tepevs C E tfirivixos. lepeus KA loStiy®*. ysfcc aMwi'. A/D©- /xapjwo/Jg©* ainicra,yer(&* eis ynyoawov Sr&.ocy@v Mg vccvSpv ^(playocTi tiam in populum decoraretur, qua de caufa , decent nuntii fuerunt nominali ac nefcio qui in fenatu Athenienfium interpretes ut d populo annuente peterent, ut fiarent decretis. Pro Eubolo et captam partem fubfcriberent , et in columnd marmorecl reponerent in Herculis templo , Nuncii Athe- narnm hoc menfe Decembris ftatutum decreverunt advenarum Amator , Felix Demetrius Marathonius et Athenis confirmdbit confilium. In Sex Coronis funt nomina teflium. In Confilio Cliodemus. Sacerdos Bacchi Sacerdos Greecus. Sacerdos Cliodemus. Cum aliis. Lapis marmoreus in memoriam triumphi votis conftlii poftius. Rcgnante Arijlo /Echimo deci- mo die Januarii in confilio domi- nante Menandro Terii confilium Menandri ex Melita. Pojlauam Eubolus Demetrius Marathonius pervenit ad Magiftratus et do- minia honorifice confecratus et eledlus gloriofe cum filio et foeiis aliis omnibus bene et ad modum decenter fuperatis , prcecipue in Panathanceo cum Refpub. Athe- narum ita fe praclare geffit cum aliis qui in Milo reperiebantur aurea corona in publico Thea - tro acclamatus , frequentibus per- funblus legationibus , ac in prcelio per longum tempus non minore utilitate dimicavit, Athenienfium in Delo commorantium et maxi- morum elefflus Deorum facerdos. Dein rurfus Alfculapii et a popu¬ lo acclamatus , fortund favente y facerdos Bacchi , et ex propriis multis confumptis et Gres cor uni turn Romanorum opthne et facrU qucscunqg ex ecu t us, ut plebeius videretur benignitatem apud in - dignos, patentibus gratiis et opti- mo omine impertito Dccholite vero confulentc elefto ad precfi- dentis munus , qui in futurum cenforid dignitate fuit donatus, d populo confilium ceperunt, ut in coronatorum ccetu Eubolus De¬ metrius Marathonius in pofterum Deorum corona ob benevolen- FINIS. INDEX TO THE SIXTH VOLUME. volume, and contain Jo many curious particulars, and moreover, /bine of the places deferib'd by him being alfo deferib'd by Gemelli in his letters, in- ferted in this volume j to avoid confufion, it is thought neceftary to make feparate alphabets for them : And therefore this Jr ft alphabet extends only from the beginning of the book, to page 358, where Sir Philip Skippon’i voyages begin. A Corask 272 A CRA fort P. 213 Cormantine 210 Aga 209 Cunningham mount 251 Alligators 223 D Amiens no TAAnes fort, taken by the Blacks P. 211 Amfterdam 133 L.J Delft 131 Ancona 45 Denmark haven 251 S. Angelo 75 Dort 130 Animabo 209 Dover in Anifhen ibid, £ Antwerp 128 TT'Ngland, its religion and government, Afcenfion Ifland 279 J_j &c. 113 Avigliana 74 F Axem 200 TTAenza 47 B X? Fair Ifland 245,256 B Anian religion 301 Fano 45 Barbadoes 237,280 Farewell Cape 246 Bergamo 65 Fero Ifland 181 Bologna 47 Ferrara 48 Bombay 261,275 Fontainbleau ' 83 Bova-dee-yaw, a ceremony at Tonqueen 30 Foullay Ifland 245,256 Brefcia 65 Frankfort 139 Britain 113 French, their manners 97 Bruges 126 Fuefo Ifland 188 Bruflfels 127 G BufTero 273 A~" 1 Abriel mount 251 C V 7 Gambaroon 275 C Alais hi S. Germain 103 Can- Ja, a ceremony at Tonqueen 30 Ghent 126 Canterbury 112 Goa 262 Capua 43 Gold-trade 206 Des Cartes monument 74 Golden Ifland 285 Carwar 262 Greenland 249 Cattolica 46 H Chamberi (the metropolis of Svjo yj ^5 T TAgue 131 La Charite city 81 rj S Helena 279 Chiozza 48 Cape of Good Hope 278 Cleves 136 Hottentot* ibid. Coblentz 138 J Cologn 136 S. TAgo 183 Land of Comfort 247 I S Jean de Maurien 75 Cabo corce cajile 204 Johanna Ifland 260 9 B L INDEX. L Aneburg P. 75 Lintz 141 Lions 94. Church es, curious clock , the great hofpital 79. Situation , bridge , jW.r, town-houfe , cuftoms 80 London 113. iS 1 . Paul's churchy Weft- minfter 120. Whitehall 121. Exchange , guildhall , monument 122. Rey^/ Jociety P. 125 Loretto 44 Louvre 103 M fear 262 Madrid 103 Man-eaters 197 Santa Mayo 183 Mechlin 128 Mentz 138 Milan, the palace , cafile, cathedral 66 . Ambrofian library , Settala’s mufeeum 67. Inhabitants 168 Mocha, account of the king and his country 355 Montmelian 75 Moorufhes ifland 277 Mofqueto kingdom 285 Cape Mounferadoe 190 Cape Mount ibid. Mufcat 270 N N AfTaw /orf 209 Nevers 81 Nimeguen 136 North weft Paffage, a voyage to it 245 Novara 69 Nurenberg 140 P P Adua 60. %*be univerfity and build¬ ings 62 Palazzuolo 65 Paris, its name , fituation , lignefs , 85. Cathedral , gmz? hofpital 87. Bridges 88. Univerfity , Val de grace monajlery 93. Carmelite nuns , & Ge¬ nevieve 94. Fountains , palais , & Ger¬ mains fair 95. Hotel de Conde, Ho¬ tel de Luxemburg, Hotel Royale des Invalides, Blondel’s rarities 76. Royal garden , o/Vincenne, Greve town-boufe 105. Kings library , obfer- vatory , les Gobelins 106. Populouf- nefs 107. Adminiflration of jujhce ic8 Perfees religion 328 Perfia 371 Pefaro 45 Pefcara 44 Pefchiera 65 Pripce’s Ifland 230 R R Atisbon 140 Ravenna. 46 Rimini ibid. Rochefter 112 Rotterdam 130 S Enigaglia Seftos Succandy fort Sun-fifh Sufa P. 4i *94 202 279 75 T Averniere, £/'s defeription of Ton- queen animadverted on 4—29 Teneriff I79 Theckydaw, fuperftitious ceremony in Tonqueen 34 S. Thomas’s Ifland 233 Through-good Ifland 251 Tonqueen, its fituation and extent 2. Nature and productions 4. Riches , frate money 6 . Strength 7. Man¬ ners of the people 8. Marriages 10. Vifits and pafilines 12. Learned men 15. Phyficians and difeafes 17. Or/- ginal government , policy 19. ^the general 25. Ceremony of the king 7 s bleffing the country 30. Superfluous purging the country from malevolent fpirits 31. Funerals 32. tdok y worfhip, fuperftttion and temples 38 Tornado dejcribed 189,213 Tuilleries j c * Turin, the citadel and well in it 70, Lawyers plead cover d ibid. Jcfuits ibid. Valentino (a pleafure houfe) 71 Cathedral, government, orders of knight¬ hood <72 V V Enice, /fj inhabit ant scarifies, mona- fieries , bridges , carnival , ridotto, behaviour , of the nobles 49. theaters 50. 0 />£rtf 43. Govern¬ ment , fecretary 50. Great council- chamber, pleadings, armory 51. Rari¬ ties, notable cufiorn of marriages , <2/- tendance of the Doge to church 52- Arfenal, mint, quarter 53. Churches 54. Glafs-works 57. Rialto bridge , bull-baiting , masks , extent of the fate, government 58. Dominion over the Adriatick 59 Vercelli 69 Verona 64 Verfailles 98. ihe gardens 99. nagery ' ioq VefTevar 260 Vicenza 63 Virginia, <2 voyage to it by Col. Norwood *45 „ . u • Trecht 135 u w Hidaw Whirlepool W 73O 214 271 r i^Ertooft, the law-giver of the Fer- ^ j fees 331 INDEX I N D E X T O Sir PHILIP SKIPPON's Travels. [ Beginning at p. 35 9, and continuing to the end of the volume. ] A Cademici Filarmonici, at Verona 544. Inferiptions on a stable relating to them , 544, 545. A A’abU of Officers and Names ibid. Academici Inveftigati at Naples, 607 Complain of the Inqutfition , &c. ibid. Academy at Vicenza, 536. Names of the Members, 536, 537. Prince of the Academy chofen annually, 537. Academies at Bononia, 557. yft Bergamo, 572. yft Como one , 573. .See University. Accefi, of virtuofi at Mantua, 550 Acid Waters near Andernach, near Cob- lentz, near Swollback, 423. At Soure- burne 442 Acqua della Valle, [aid to cure all dtfeafes but the French-Pox 691 Aelft 371 j£tna, mounts a great eruption , 627. Seventy miles in circuit, and above 1 o miles high, ibid. Cfppcrmofi parts covered with Snow ibid. S. Agatha 614 Ague, a charm to cure it 528 Aguefmortes 724 Aix, its cathedral , churches , baths, pa¬ lace, &c. 722 Aken, a dreadful fire there , 417. Fine painting in glafs, 418. An imperial city, ibid. Baths there 419 Albert Durer. See among the pi&urcs and rarities. AldrovandusT Mufcum at Bononia, 559. C threc hundred of his MSS- 560. Much affified in writing by his wife , ib. Alexandria 586 Altar-pieces, curious ones at Municben, 455. See among the pictures and rarities. Altenhoven 419 Altorf 700 Anrbervalia, among the ant lent Romans, what 528 Amburbia, among the old Romans, what ibid. Amfterdam, its publick buildings , &c. 404. Names of profeffiors there, and times of reading 406 Anatomical Kar ties, 530. Anatomical Difcoverics, by M. Steno, a Dane 716 Anatomy Theatre at Padua, 529. At Bononia, 557. Anatomy-Ledlure, by Capponius at Bononia, 536. Ana¬ tomy-Theatre at Montpelier 716 Ancona 687 Andernach 423. Acid waters near it ib. L’Ange, marquis de, fiory about him and his wife 733 Angelo, Michael. See among the pi&ures, ftatues, rarities Anio, now Teverone river , a great caf- catc or cataradl there 674 Animals. See Vivarium Antiquities 613. At Tivoli 674. At Arles 723. See among the rarities, inferip- tions, &c. Antwerp, its colleges,churches, curiofities, &c. Annual proceffion at its Kermes or fair 379—382 Apona, baths there of a hot and petrifying quality 535. Ufedin the Lues Venerea ibid. AqusediuT at Bononia 561. Genoa 590. Pila 593. Malta 621. Near Catania 627. At $alerno 630. At Rome, built by Auguftus Csefar 653. At Arles 718 Aquapendente 646 Arch triumphal at Alexandria 586. A Roman one at Fano 689. Seve¬ ral at Rome. See Rome. See alfo among the inferiptions. Archimedes’ j Cochlea to raife water 464 Arena0/ Padua 531 Arles, ancient chrifiian monuments there 718. Its antiquities 723 Armenians INDEX. Armenians at Venice, their manner of celebrating divine fervice 514—516. Priejls can marry but once 517. Enmi¬ ty between them and the Greeks ibid. Cufioms ibid. Armuyden . 385 Arfchot, duke of, his palace 377. His genealogy from Adam to the lafi duke 378. His arms, monuments of his family , &c. ibid. Afch 474 Afperon 409 Afies of Malta, have their nofes flit 622. Rate of hiring them at Florence 635 Afte, petrify’d Jhells near it 517 Augsburg, its fiue arfenal 459. Night- gate 464. A marriage ceremony there ibid. Curious -waterworks, and a fine perfpeCtive 465. Odd Knacks made there ibid. Augft, or Augufta Romanorum, now a fmall village, once a Roman city 447 Auguftino, Leonardi, the pope’s antiquary, his fine collection of rarities 678 Avignon, its cathedral , churches , col¬ leges, &c. 712,713. See alfo p. 725 Auricula Dionyfii 616 B B Accano, its bad air 646 Bacharach , noted for the befi Rhenifh wines 423 Baden, baths there 447 Baldafti, a chymift, pretends to do firangc things 717 Ball for the common people at Venice 506 Ballare Marini 689 Balneum Vaporofum at Salerno 630 Banditti 629,630 Bando at Rome againfl whores riding in coaches 666. Againfl throwing fnow-balls, a coachman having been killed by one 676 Barton, an Englifh fefv.it , and ingenious fcholar difgufled at many things in bis order 531. Efcapes to England ibid. Bafil 444. Houfe painted on the outfide by Holbein 446 Baiter, defeription of that game 508 BalTo relievo work. See pictures, rarities, &c. Baftides, or pleafure-houfes near Mar- leilles, above 6000 of them 719 Baths at Aken 419. At Burcet ibid. At Baden 447. At Apona, of a petrifying quality 535. At Rome. See Rome. At Aix 722 Bavaria duke of, his character, court, &c. 457 Bavarian pokes or Bronchoceles, what 482 Beaumont 735 Beauvo.s ibid. Beccafici, manner of taking them P. 636 Beggars abound mufi in fupcrftitious places 700 Beguins, an order of religious women 371,375 Bellori, Giov. Pietri, a skilful antiquary, his curiofities 681 Belluccius, Tho. profeffor of botany at Pifa, his morofenefs 594 Berchem 419 Bergamo, its domo, churches, Borgi, Aca¬ demy, Lazaretto, Sc. 572 Bergenopzoom 385,386 Bermhertigen Brooders, an order of friars who take care of the fick 481 Bernacle-lhells 519,618 Berne, ceremonies at divine fervtce there 701 Bils, M. de, his embalm d bodies 379 Blacklmith made a famous painter by love 381 Bogardeens, an order of religious 452 Bohemians, ufed hardly by the emperor 484 Bolletins, or bills of health, the form of one, at Ponteville, 483. At Mantua, 549. At Ferrara, 551* ^Piacenza, 568. At Genoa, 587. At Ligorn, 596. At Naples, 609. At Meffina, 616. At Malta, 624. At MeiFna for Naples 622 Bologne 735 Bommel 409 Bonconvento 646 Bonne 423 Bononia, 553. Zodiack in the pavement of a church there, 554, 555. Callini’* meridional line, 555. Pub lick Schools, ibid. Its many colleges, 557. ‘fibree academies there, ibid. Manner of the Confalonieri s entring on bis office, 558. How filk-tbread is made there, 559. A fellow painted hanging by the heels on a gallows, for carrying the trade of organzine filk from Bononia to Genoa and Piacenza, ibid. Its nuns, fryars, churches, monafteries, &c 561, 562, Bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul here, and at Rome, at the fame time, 562. IVhat noted for , 563. Bononia wajhballs, how made, ibid. Great feuds among the nobility there, ibid. Jufiings there 694 Bofch, differently built from other towns m Holland 409 Bofchetto, the pleafure-houfe of the great maler of Malta 623 Bredah, 387. Story of its being taken by means of a turf boat , ibid. Breeches, not worn by the old Romans, 528 Brelcia, its churches, hofpital , domo, caftle. Sic. 573 Bridges 3 r I N D Bridges of flone in Venice, to the number of 450, 519 Brifac ■ 423, 443 Bronchoceles, who much troubled with them 482 Browback 423 Bruck 447 Bruges, 364. A tall man there, 365. Its churches, gilds , hall , &c. 365 — 369. V leaf ant water-work 369 Bruffels, its park, 371. IVater-works, ibid. Echoing-gallery, palace, chapels, exchange, Jladthuys,gilds, churches, &ic. 37 1 — 375- d'/’ory c/ Jews fiab- bing the Hnfis 375 Bry 410 Bucentoro at Venice, 495. Of the duke of Mantua 550 Buck-wheat, method of drying it 483 Buran 504 Burcet baths 419 Burg, «£W Leiden 401 Burial at Bruges, 365. At Bafil, 447. At Nuremberg, 467. At Vienna, 477. At Venice, 502. At Genoa, 589 C Abinet of a Chymift, 533. Of Sign. Mofcardo, at Verona, 543. Of Gia¬ como Zenon, at Bononia, 560. Of Sign. Septala, at Milan, 575. Of Signior Cavaliero,^ Milan, 580. Of M. Seryier, at Lyons, 708, 709. Of Mr. Gilibert, 717. Of Frere Rochet, ibid. Of Monf Borell at Aix, 722. Of Monf Gayran, 724. See Muftum. Csefarian Section, a letturc upon it 529 Calais, 361. Notre-dame church there, ibid. Dominican nuns, ibid. Minnums, 362. Miraculous cure, ibid. See alfo P- 735 Calcearius s rarities, fome in poffeffion of fgnior Mofcardo, 544. Others offignior Sala 547 Camnidoli, a fort of hermits 601 Candlemas-Day, ceremonies upon it at Rome 684 Cannon, a large one at Gant 371 Canterbury 361, 735 Capers, where they grow, 720. Manner of pickling them 721 Capra, count, his fine palace, near Vi¬ cenza 539 Caprarole,/>tf/tfre of, its noted wbifpenng- place 687 Cardinals at flipper, 6 71. A cardinal lying in ft ate 681 Cards fold at 20 foldi a pack , 533. How made ibid. Carmelites, an ample account of their order , rules, cuftoms, &c. 617 Carniyal at Venice defcribed 506 Carthufiar.s, at Venice, fome account of that order 501 E X. Carving, curious, at St. Huberts ru Liege, 414. Pulpit at Spire, 430. At Munichen, 455. In the cathedral at Vienna, 476. At Padua, 523, 524. Carving of glafs, an art known to the ancients, 528. Carvings at Salerno, 629. At Florence, 634, 635. At Nifmes, 713. See alfo among the pictures and rarities. Cafcina, woods of pleafure, near Florence, defcribed 636 Cafiini’j meridional line at Bononia 555 Caftile-Soap, how it is made 518 Catacombs at Syracufe 616 Catania, 616. Antiquities there 627 Cataract of the whole river Rhine, 450. At the river Anio or Teverone 674 St. Catherine’^ body at Bononia 561 Cavalcade at Rome 661 Cave, a btfijoprick in Naples 630 Cave of Guftozo, reputed feven miles long, 531. Caves at Syracufe, 616. Near Arles 719 Cavo-fango, a remarkable engine at Ve¬ nice to cleanfe the channels from mud, &c. ^ 504 Ceremonies in the popifij churches at Rome, 665. See alfo cuftoms. Charlemagne, his chair found in his grave, 418. He outwits the devil ibid. Chevalier at Padua, what 529 Chimneys in the middle of hcufes, fo as the cook may go round the fire 483 Chiquenau, Dr. botanick profeffor at Montpelier 715 Chorea Mortis 446 Chriftina, queen of Sweden, her perfon , drefs, &.c. defcribed, 676. Kefufes to kneel at the Santa Cafa ibid. Chronogram at Bruflels, 375. y//Ant¬ werp, 381. At Ratisbon 472 Church of France, efiimate of its revenue, 734 Chymical preparations, 533. Chymical J'ecrets ^ 534 Chymift, firange things pretended to be done by one 717 Cinq-Sol pieces, manner of flam ping them 72 5 Clement VIII, apleafant Jiory of him 55 7 Clocks, a blafphemotis one at Munichen, 455. A famous one at Ratisbon, 473. Clocks at Venice, differently figured from ours, 521. Sign. Septalas pendulum clocks at Milan, 576. Clock at Rome to fijew the hour of the night, 658. Clock at L,yons, 709. At Avignon, 713. Clock-dials at Clermont-co/Zege, Paris 731 Coblentz, 423. Acid-watcrs near it ibid. Cockles petrify d, found near Modena, 566. Alfo near Afte in Piemont 586 Coins belonging to the eleftor Palatine, 440. See aljo among the rarities. 9 C Coire, V. INDEX. Coir t, the chief town of the Grifons 697 Cold, a boy falls dead with extremity thereof , and by what means ftrangely re¬ covered 734 Collen, 419. Story of S. Urfula and the eleven thoufand virgins, 420, 421. Ar¬ mory, ibid. Invention of a frame to hold 42 guns, ibid. Bodies of the three kings 422 Colours, of feveral forts, for painting on glafs, how to make them 521,522 Comedy at Venice, 502. Rude behaviour of the Venetians at it, ibid. Comedy at Paris, 731. Dauphin's company of boys ibid. Como 573 Conegliano 485 Confaloniero of BoIoniaT manner of en- tnng on his office 558 Conftantz, 451. Reafon of its name, 452. John Hus’s prifon ibid. Contubernium, a college at Heidelberg, where poor Jludents live cheap 433 Corvinus’s fiudy at Mefiina 614 Cotton engine 621 Crcma, its hofpital, manufacture of nuns thread, &c. 569 Crembs, a pretty city, with boufes of flone painted 475 Crevecoeur 409 Crofles ereCted in memory of two hunt [men, who killed one another 260 paces afunder 466 Croy, duke of. See Arfohot. Cruck 458 Cryftal, many knacks made in it, at Milan, 579. IVhat ufed in grinding cryftal , ibid. Curiofittes in cryftal , 580. How they are coloured red ibid. Curiofities. See rarities. Cuftoms of the people of Bruges, 364. Holland, 411. Liege, 416. Bafil, 447. Zurich, 448, 449. Schaff- haufen, 451. Nuremberg, 468. Jews at Venice, 510. Greeks and Arme¬ nians at Venice, 517. Venetians, 519, 520. Italians, 520. At the lectures at Padua, 529. Of the people of Padua, 534. Verona, 548. Mantua, 550. Bononia, 563. Genoa, 587, 590. Luca, 592. Naples, 599, 607. Of the Sicilians, 611. Of the Turks, when they deny a thing , 621. Of the women of Tropia at funerals , 628. Of the people of Florence and Siena, 641. Rome, 684, 685. Tyrol, 695. Among the Grifons, ibid. Of Switzer¬ land, 699 — 701. Berne, 702. Ge¬ neva, 703, 704. Grand Chartreufe, near Lyons, 710. Montpelier 716 D D Ancing on the ropes, and tricks of agility at Montpelier 718. Alfo at Paris 732 Danube, two dangerous paffiages in it 475 Delft 389 Dial, a famous one 465. See clocks Difobedient children, a place for them at Naples 607 Divinis, Euftathius de, his exquifite per- fpeCiives and other glaffies 683 Divorce at Paris, on a lady's complaint of her husband's impotency 733 Dogs ufed to draw at Bru(Tels 375. At Mechlen, Louvain, &c. 384. Epitaph on a dog. 457 Donawerc 466 Dover 361 Drinking glafles ^Venice, how made 500 Duel, a ftrange one 528 Dunkirk fold to the French king 363. De¬ fer iption of it 363,364 Durer Albert, bis wooden crofs,for which the eleClor of Bavaria offered its weight in gold 467. See among the pictures, &LC. Dutchman, true one, always eating when he travels 411 Dutch 111 ip, great neatnefs and or dir aboard it 596 E G G S fry'd at a flame that breaks out of the ground near Grenoble 711 Eglifaw 450 Embalming powder, the receipt valued at 6000 1. 379 Endthoven 410 Engine at a bookfeller s Jhop at Bergamo, for beating of books 572. For grinding cryftal 576. For making and winding of filver plate, at Turin 584. For ftlk, at Meffina 610. For cotton at Malta 621. For weeding 715. For drawing water out of a well 717. To raife a nap on cloth 727 Englifh burfo, at Antwerp 383 Englilh church at Middleburg 384. Flufhing 385. ‘Iwo at Veere, ibid. One at Bergen-op-zoom 386. Two at Dort 388. One at Rotterdam 389. At Delft 392. Fhe Hague 394. Ley¬ den 400. l"wo at Amfterdam 407. One at Utrecht ibid. E nglilh college at Piacenza 569. At Rome 672 Englifhmen at the following places, when the author was there , viz. at Lou¬ vain 377. Spaw 417. Venice 505, 506. Padua 535. Bononia 562, 564. Genoa 589. Pila 595. Ligorn ibid. Naples 2 J INDEX. Naples 609. Meffina 61 1. Florence 6 33. Rome 650. Geneva 704. Lyons 708, 727. Nifmes 714. Montpelier ibid. Marfeilles 720. Paris 731 Englifhmen, a lift of their names and coats of arms at Padua 525. lnfcnp- tions at Padua to fome Englifhmen who ftudied there ibid. nuns at Greveling 362. Dunkirk 363. Gant 370. Bruflels 375. Lou¬ vain 377. Munichen [ on wbofe houfe is written , Jefu convene Angliam] 455. At Augsburg 463 Englilh veflfels, i 3 c. taken by the French 720. Inftance of French treachery and barbarity in the doing it 721 Epitaphs. See infcriptions Equuleus, the rack of the ancients , deli¬ neated 560 Erenbreitftein 423 Eft6, palace , in Tivoli. See Tivoli. Execution, manner of it at Verona 547. Milan 582. Naples 602. Rome 665. Paris 733 F Abri, Honoratus, a good pbilofopher and mathematician at Rome 683. Books written by him ibid. His dtf- courfe of reflexion of light ibid. Faenza 693 Famous men in the univerfity of Louvain 376. At Mentz 424. At Zurich 448. Fano, an old Roman arch there 689 Februarius, whence its name 528 Ferrara, its churches , monafteries , cafile, &c. 551,694 Ferrarius leisures at Padua 527 Ferula Galbinifera, the pith of it catches fire as well as tinder 627 Fifhing in the night at Naples 599 Fifhing for fword-fifh 615 Fifty-cufFs at Venice every funday , upon what occafton 501. At Florence 635 Florence 632. Its churches , monuments , races , fports , citadel 6 32— 6 36. Gal¬ lery of the grand duke 636—638. Ar~ mory 638,639. Rich coach 639. Viva¬ rium ibid. At S. Lorenzo 640. Palace and gardens ibid. Fortezza ibid. Cuftoms 641. Diverfions 642. Ac¬ counts of the dukes of Florence ibid. D'utcbefs much difcontented , and why ibid. Account of the great duke’s family, perfon and manner of life ibid. Great duke not beloved at Florence 642 Exorbitantly taxed ibid. I’bis the faircft city in Italy 644. Its bridges , ft reefs, buildings , pavements , hofpitals , old palace , convents , language , great duke’s revenue , expences, forces ,&c. 644,645 Florence wine 596 Florentines gmtf defpifers of phyficians, yet every family has his phyfictan and lawyer 641. Gentlemens daughters boarded and educated at 10 1 . per An. till marryed ibid. Oppreffed by gabels 642, 643. Sweat m an oven for the French pox 643. troubled with worms in their blood , and a cancerous humour ibid. Flufhing 385 Fountain at Frankfort 427. At Spire 432. Lindaw 452. Landsberg 453. Munichen 457. 'three Jlately ones at Augsburg 459. three others at Nurem¬ berg 467. Many others there ibid. One at Nieumark 470. Several at Ratis- bon ibid. At Vienna 476. St. Veit 483. In Sig. Jufti’j garden at Verona 541. At Marmirolo 548. At Brefoia 571. At Genoa 587. At Pifa 593. Fountain of brafs at Florence 634. Another vaft one there , with a ciflern and ftatues out of one ft one 641. Of Neptune at Florence 644. At Siena 645- At Viterbo 646. At Rome, from 647 to 686 Frauboine, a foldier eight foot and a half high ' 443 France 707. State of the revenue of the ecclefiafttcks there 734 Franchimont, Julphur and vitriol works near it 417 Francifcan fryars , 30,000 fighting men amongfi them 6 17 Francifcans min. obf an account of that order 629. One of them wonders bow the author and bis company could live without whores ibid. Convent of Irifh Francifcans at Rome 661 Frankendal 429. Inundation of the Rhine there ibid. Frankfurt 426. Remarkable fifhing-nets ufed there ibid. Immodeft pUlures 427. The golden bull ibid. Rebellion there Anno 1614 ibid. Stinking wells 428. Tobacco ibid. Freifac 483 French king at war with England 730. General ubfervations on both Sexes 732, 733 Frefco painting at Siena 645. At Rome, kdc. See among the pi&ures and rarities. Friburg 702 Fridburg 459 Friuli wine not fit to drink 485. How the country people hire their lands ibid. Frontignan, noted for its rich wines 714 Fuggerus, Jacob, his widow’s curious pic¬ tures 460 Funeral of a Spanifh ambaffador at Ve¬ nice 502 Funeral. See Burying G / I N D E X. Allery of the great duke of Tufcany T ^Florence 636, 637 Galloping nuns 455, 463 Gant, its churches, convents, monuments, gilds, Sic. 369—37 1 Gardens of the duke of Bavaria Muni- chen 457. Garden of Count Valma- rana at Vicenza 537. A copper bucket for a well to water it, ibid. Garden of Sig. Horatio Jufti at Verona 540. Of prince Doria at Genoa 587. Of the grand duke at Florence 640. Of prince Ludovifia at Rome 652. At the V a- tican 663. Garden of fimples at Gre¬ noble 709. Of the French king at Paris 730 Gelding of hens at Florence 642 .S'. Gemer 423 Geneva, promotion of fcholars there 703 King of the harquebuffes, ibid. Man¬ ner of performing divine fervice there 704. Recreations and fports on Sunday evenings ibid. Arfenal 705 Genoa, the fiff-market, churches, palaces, j Greets, hofpital, armory, bancho, galley- flaves ; the moles, manners of the peo¬ ple, &c 587 to 590 Georgians, fome account of their religion, &c. 51 7 St. Geran, count de,. a not able fiory of his coming to his eft ate 727 Germany 412. IVhat the emperor and diet contributed to the fupport of A.Charles II. when in exile 458. Number of its pre¬ lates, abbots, &c. dukes, marquiffes, earls,bur graves, barons, imperial cities, &c. " 484 Gerrefheim 428 Gertrudenberg 388 Geyran, Monf his cabinet of rarities 724 Gheto. See under the article Jews. Gioco d'amore, an Italian fport 520. Us'd by the old Romans 521 Giuftiniano’j palace at Rome, the fculp- ture whereof coft 80,000 feudi 668. Willing to fell his curiofities out of Rome, but forbidden by the Pope ibid. Glarus in Switzerland 699 Glals chamber pots 500. Glafs-making at Venice ibid. Glew, to fafien on plants, how made 730 Gondalo’s, 9 or 10,000 in Xenice 519 Gonzia, father, his skeletons 565 Government of Calais, 362. Dunkirk 363. Nieuport 364. Oftend ibid. Bruges 369. Lovaine 375. Antwerp 383. Walcheren 385. Bergen-op- zoom 387. Rotterdam 389. Delft : 392. Of the Seven United Provinces 394—397. Drent 396. . Amfterdam D 405. Utrecht 407. Vianen 409. Lecrdam ibid. Bommel ibid. Bofch ibid. Haumont 410. Liege 414< Aken 418. Gulick 419. Collen 422. St. Gewer 423. Mentz 424. Frank¬ fort 427. Worms 429. Frankendal 430. Spire 432. Heidelberg 434. Strasburg 442. Bafil 444. Lindaw 452. Munichen 457. Augsburg 463 Nuremberg 468. Ratisbon 4*72. Vi¬ enna 480. Padua 529. Vicenza 538. Verona 547. Mantua 55o. Ferrara 553. Bononia 557. Modena 565. Crema 569. Brefcia 571. Bergamo 572. Milan 581, 582. Turin 585. Genoa 587. Luca 592. Naples 609. Trent 694 Gozo, an ifland near Malta 623, 624 Grand Chartreufe, entertainment there 71 o. Saw-mills, ibid. Grapes preferv d in pots all the winter 614 Gratz in Styria 483 Greek antiquities. See among the rarities, ftatues, &c. Greek church at Venice, ceremonies us'd by the monks, &c. at divine fervice 511—515. Their ceremonies in Lent- time 514. Enmity between them and the Armenians 517. Further ceremo¬ nies of the Greek church at Rome not obfervd at Venice 667, 668. ‘Eheir, ceremony at Rome in memory of the ap¬ pearance atChrift’s baptifm 674 Gregory VIII- a pleafant ftory of him. SSI Grenoble 709. Number of Protefiants there ibid. Greveling 362 Grifons, feme account of their country 695. Pay no taxes, and have no fortify d places 696 Grotto del Cane 601. Effects of its va¬ pour try d on dfferent animals ibid. Grots where the Chnjiians us'd to hide themfelves in times of persecution 675 Guelfs and Ghibelins fill Jubfift at Mon- dovi in Savoy 586 Gulick 419 Guftoza, a cave reputed 7 miles long 539 ' i'¬ ll H Abits of the people of different coun¬ tries ; viz. Of thofe of Bazil 447. Augsburg 465. Nuremberg 468. Ra¬ tisbon 470. Flungarians at Vienna 478. About Pontevilla 483. Of thofe of Fri¬ uli 485. Venice 489. Of the Archbiffjop of the Greek church 513. Monks of the fame, ibid. Greek women ^Venice 514. Armenian priefts at Venice 515. Ve¬ netian noblemen 519. Antient Roman boys 528. Auguftine hermits at Padua. 5,32. Students at Bononia 557. Picmon- tefe women 587. Doge of Genoa 589. Genoefe 590. Friars at Medina 614 Of INDEX. Of thofe at Syracufe 616. Of fundry Orders 617. Of the Grand Mafter of Malta 618. Francifcans 629. Of an Hieronymite fryar 630. Of the Cele» ftines at Rome 669. Women at Rome 685. Of the people at Baflano 694. Of the Grifon Women 6963 697. Of the people at Bern 702. At Geneva 705, At Montpelier 716. About Beauvais 735. Haemorrhoids, a medicine for them 561 Hague 392. Its palace , &c. defcrib'd, ibid. Hall, in Bavaria, 8 long Storehoufes for fait there 458 Happaert, minheer , buys Rubens’^ firft draughts 3 84 Harlem 403. A man there at hi years old, marries a woman of 22, and has a daughter by her ibid. Haumont 410 Hauflen, a fiflo, of the fpermatick vejfels whereof is made the Ichthyocolla 480 Hawkwood, Sir John, fome account of him 633 Heidelberg 433. Its civil and ecclefiafti- calgovernment 434, 435 Hemming 470 Hemp bruifed by a Jlone moved by water 727 Hens gelded 643. Eat vipers greedily at Padua, and their flefb taftes the better for it 412 Herftal ibid. Hill, the fall of part of one 475 Holbein, many curious pieces of his at Bafil 445 Holland, its government, Eaft-India Com¬ pany , &c. 394, 397. Its univerfities 397. Cujloms , &c. 411 Holy-water fprinkled on Horfes at Rome 678 Horne, Dr. Van, his curious skeletons, &c. 401. His opinion concerning the return of the blood into the fpleen ibid. Could never obferve any Anaftomafes between veins and arteries ibid. Horfe, a very little one 422 Hortus Siccus, an extraordinary good one 730. How to make a glew to faft en in plants ibid. Hofpital of Padua 330. for maintaining poor girls till married 614. For taking care of baftard children at Rome 656. Hofpital of S. Giacomo at Rome 666 Hofpitelleto 484, 571 Hotfoots, a fort of firing at Liege 416 Huevener’j gardens and water-works at Augsburg 465 Hugenius’-t Pneumatiok Engine and Per- fpici Ilium 393. He fir ft dtfeovers the Limbus Saturni ibid. His library , in which are many o/Ltpfius’s MSS. ibid. Hungary-water, is fpirit of wine, diftill'd with rofemary flowers 716 Hydra, with 7 heads 565 Hyofcyamus albus us'd as an opiate by the common people of Florence 643 I I Diots, many of them in one country 482 Jefuits little regarded at Venice 531. Not fuffer'd to live in Lucca 592. ‘their treafures in different countries 686 Jews, ftory of their ftabbing the hofts at Bruftels 375. Jews at Amfterdam, their cuftoms, &c. 405, 406. tolera¬ ted at Mentz 423. ^Frankfort 428. Very poor there, and ufe the trade of brokers ibid. Are counted thieves, and manner of executing them if taken in theft ibid. Allow'd to live at Heidel¬ berg 441. A hornwork at Vienna built at their charge 476. Jews at Venice, an account of them, their pub lick em¬ ploys , &c. 509, 510. At Mantua, their numbers, and how diftingwfo'd 550. At Modena 566. Ligorn 595. Publickly fold at Malta 621. One ba¬ ft inado'd and find, for finking a Chri- ftian ibid. At Florence 644. Ser¬ mons preach'd for them at R ome, at which they are oblig'd to be prefent 658. Manner of their circumcijion 677. their employs at Rome, ibid- Many of them at Ancona 689. And at Senigallia, ibid. Illuminated ftone. See Lapis Bononienfis. Imola 693 Impotency, a Lady accufes her husband of it, and being divorc'd , both marry again, and have children 733 Inciofures or fences, convenient ones 482 India Company of Holland 397 Inlaid work. See among Pictures and Rarities. Infcriptions at Bruges 365—369. At Gant 369—371. Bruftels 372 — 375. Louvain 376—378. Macklin 379. Antwerp 380—383. Bergen opzoon 385. Bredah 387. Dort 388. Rotterdam ibid. Delft 389. Hague 392. At the Prince of Orange’j pleafure houfe 393. Lanlden 394. Leyden 397, 401, 402. the Burg, near Leyden 401. At Harlem 403. Amfterdam 404, 406. Utrecht 408. Bofch 409, 410. Bry 410. Liege 412—415. Spaw 416. Aken 417. Collen 419 —422. Bonne 423. Andernach ibid. Mentz 424, 425. Franckfort 427. Worms 428, 429. Frankendal 430. Spire 430, 431. Manheim 432. Hei¬ delberg 433—438. Strasburg 441, 442. Bafil 444. Zurich 448. ScafF- 9 D haufon, INDEX. haufen 450. Conftantz 451. Muni- chen 453, 454. Augsburg 459—463 Nurenberg 466, 467. Altorf 469. Ratisbon 470, 472. Vilfhoven 473. Paflaw 4.74. Lintz, ibid. Crembs 475. Vienna 476, 481. Newftadt 481. On a bridge on the river Timent 484. A\t Claulen, ibid. Sacile 485. Cone- gliano 486. Venice 487 to 498, 499, 503, 505. At the Greek church at Venice 511. At Padua 523 to 526, and 530 to 533. At Vicenza 537, 538. Verona 540 to 547. At Mantua 549, 550. Ferrara 552 to 554. Bo- nonia 555, 556, and 560 ^563. Mo¬ dena 565, 566. Parma 567. Piacenza 569. Brefcia 570, 571. On CalepineT picture at Bergamo, 572. At Calonega 573. Como 573, 574 Milan 574, 577 to 581. Turin 584. Alexandria 586. Genoa 588. Luca 591. Pifa 539. Naples 597, 6oq, to 606. Meftina 610. On the Bancho at Medina 613. At the fchools 614. Under the pidture of Medina in that city ibid. At St. Agatha 615. Malta 619, 620. Citta Vittoriof'a 622. Citta Notabile or Me¬ dina 623. Catania 627. Salerno 629, 630. Nocera 630. Florence 632 to 640. At Rome 647 to 686. At Ponte Lucano 674. Otricoli 687. Rccanati, ibid. Fano 689, 690. Fefauro 690. On an arch at Rimini, ibid. On the Jlone Julius Casfar flood on , after he had pafsa the Rubicon, when he harangud his foldiers , ibid. On a chapel at Ri¬ mini, ibid. At Ravenna 692, 693. At Trent 694. Near Berne 701. At Geneva 703, 705. Epitaphs to Eng¬ lishmen 705. Infcriptions at Lyons 707—709. At Grenoble, ibid. Avig¬ non 712. Nil'mes 713, 725. Magel- lone 717. S. Maximin 722. Salon 723. Arles 724. Valence 726. Paris 729, 731. A curious piece of ant lent Greek tranfcribW by the library-keeper at Venice 736 Joncquet, Monf profejfor in the French kings garden at Paris 730 Jovius, Paulus 573 Journey from Ratisbon to Vienna 473 — 475. From Vienna to Venice 481 — 486. From Mantua to Ferrara 551. From Ferrara to Bononia 553. From Crema to Lodi and Como 573. From Milan to Vercelli 583. From thence to Turin, ibid. From thence to Genoa 587. From Siena to Rome 646. From Rome to Ancona 687. From Ancona to Venice 694 Fhence to Tyrol, and Jo to Switzerland 695. From Geneva to Lyons 737. From Montpelier to Mar¬ seilles 718,719. From Lyons to Paris 727 Italy 485. A lift of the fovereign princes thereof ‘ 686 Juftings at Bononia 694 Jufti, Sign. Horatio, his noble garden at Verona 540 K K Ermes, or fair of Antwerp 381 Ketwin, a firong abbey in Auftria, in vain attempted by the Swedes 475 Kircher, German Jefint , his gallery and curious walks defertFd 672, 673 Kirton , Dr. gives information of medicines for feveral maladies 643 L Andsberg 453 Lana-Tortoifes 501 Language of the Liegois 415. Of the Malteze 624, 625, 626. Of Florence 694. Of the Grifons 697. Of the vul¬ gar of Montpelier 716 Lanfdun, the Jlory of the 365 children at one birth ^9 1 Lapis Bononienfis, or illuminated Jlone 561. How to prepare it to receive light ibid. How ufed in the cure of the Hxmorrrboids ibid. Laufanne 702 Lawyers fee half a crown at Florence 641 Laykirke, an imperial city 453 Lazarole, a pleafant fruit 657 Le&ures by Ferrarius at Padua 527. By Marchetti, by Fra. Bonardus, by Steph. de Angelis 529. By Capponius at Bo¬ nonia 556. Botanick ones at Meftina 613 Leerdam 409 Legends 418, 426, 454, 580, 591, 538, 612, 615, 621, 641, 688, 72 1 Legend of the Virgin s letter to the city of Medina queflioned by Baronius 612 Leti, in his hijlory^ not always to be de¬ pended on 582 Lew ben, much iron made at it 482 Leyden 397. Its univerfity 399, 402. Profejfor there 399. Its phyfie k-gar den ibid. Publick deputations ibid. Ana¬ tomy-theatre 400. Curiofities in the publick library ibid, fbe Burg near that place 401. Making of turf there 402 Library of the Jefuits college at Antwerp 379. O/Hugenius 393. Univerfity of Heidelberg 43 3. Eledtor Palatine 440 Univerfity at Bafil 444. Erafmus 445. Zurick 448. Bogardeens at Conftantz, 452. Cardinal Beftarion at Venice 487. Ambrofian library at Milan 574. Irifh Francilcan monks at Rome 661 Vatican 663. Auguftines at Rome 670. Of Mich. Ang. Ricci 681. Li¬ brary at Geneva 706 Liege INDEX. Liege 412. Saints bodies repo/ited there 413. Its great number of religious boufes 414. College of Englilh jefuits 415. Language ibid. Women great drudges 416. Armour and guns made cheap there , ibid. A coal mine there ibid. Ligorn, its bignefs , ftrength , caftle, the¬ atre. , &c. 595 Limburg 417 Lindaw, an imperial city 452. Ceremony of a chriftening ibid. Lingua Rhsetica, a fpecimen of it 697 Linfeed-Oil, how made at Milan 579 Lintz 474 Linus, curious inventions of clock-work 4 i 5 Lodeftein-caftle 423 Lodi 573 Looking-glades, how made at Venice 500. Maimer of grinding them 501 Loreto, the (lory of Santa Cafa tranflated into 13 languages 688. fthe treafury ibid, ‘the Santa Cafa ibid. Lort, Monf makes counterfeit precious ft ones 718 Lorzi Nova 570 Louvain, its churches , monuments , uni- verfity , famous men therein , fchools , colleges , caftle, &£c. 375—379 Luca, the Sandlus Vultus, cathedral , churches , palace 591, 592 Lucern, account of the Proteftants in that and other valleys of Piemont 586, 700 Lupercalia, facrifices to Pan 528 Luperci, priefts of Pan 528. Women fond of their blows ibid. Whence the cuftom of their running up and down the Jlreets , whipping men and women they met with ibid. Luftrum of the Romans, a difeourfe upon it 528 Lutherans, their manner of performing divine fervice 452 Lyons, 707. Fryars there very importu¬ nate beggars 708. Number of Prote¬ ftants there ibid. Germans have great privileges 709. A whim ft cal diver(ion there 727 M M Acerata 687 Machines, Sale des, at Paris 731. Machines at Clermont college , deferr¬ ing excellently the motions of the planets , &c. ibid. Machlin 379 Maeftricht 410,411 Magellone, a ruin d palace of the biftoop of Montpelier 716 Malamocco 503 Malatefta, an ufurper 690 Malta, the grand mailer , his revenue , the knights 0 the gran croce, requifites for the knights , brief hiftorical account of them , their oath 618,619. ft he churches , hofpital, caftle , flaves priftm , armory , cor#, cummin , numbers of men and vil¬ lages , palace 619—623 Maltefe language , # fpecimen of it 624— 626 Manheim 432. y/ town greatly favoured, by the elector Palatine ibid. /«- feription to be written on a medal defignedfor this town ibid. Manna, /o7» how made at Luca. 593 Old women, fpinning and begging within the church-doors at Venice 499 Oliver Cromwell his memory greatly re- fpeCted in Switzerland 450. His influence over the court of France, in an inftance of an infurredion of the P rot eft ants at Nifm.es 733 > 734 Onyx-ftoncs engraven * all ancient 678 Orange 712. Its antiquities and parlia- ment ibid- See alfo p. 725 Organ fo large, that a corpulent man may pafs through the pipes 700 Organzine filk how made at Bononia 559 Fellow painted hanging by the heels at Bo¬ nonia, for carrying this trade to other ftates ibid. Opera at Venice 506. Engine to move the fcenes 507. Engine us'cl to fly with 508 Ofculum Pacis, counted by the Armenians a deadly Jin to omit it in the mafs 517 P P ADUA 523. Revenues of the monks there 525. Unrulinefs of the fcholars 529. Story of a bloody murther there 530. Gentlemen of this city not very devout 534. Bread of Padua much efteem’d ibid. Painters, famous ones at Rome, when the author was there 685 Painting upon glafs, a procefs of that art 521, 522. Fine painting in Frefco, at Siena 645. In the Libraria, ibid. See among the pictures, &c. Palatine, elector , accounts of his affability \ of his family See 440. His fine colle¬ ction of rarities, (table , &c. ibid. Palilia, an antient Roman feftival 528 Paris, its ftone quarries 729. Plaifter of Paris, college of four nations, Sorbonne, Hotel de Ville, Pont Neuf, Place Dauphine, Place Royalle, Notre Dame, Baftille, arfenal, S. Germain Auxer- rois, Louv e 729. Jefuits church , S. Clou, Verlailles 730. 5 . Innocent’* church-yard fuddenly confumes the dead bodies ibid. 5 Euftace, Valdegrace, Carthuflans, Luxembourg ibid. Palais Cardinal,Sale des Machines, Mathurins, Clermont college , Le Palais, Chief ftreels , lauxbourgs, Gobelins 731. '■The porters wooden device for carrying things 732. Charenton, fair of S. Ger¬ main, Theatins, bridges, prifons , 7 32 Parma, 567. The duke's palace, magnificent coaches, theatre, fummerpalace, &c. ibid. His ftrength 568. Pays tribute to the pope, ibid. Wonderful woman there with¬ out hands , ibid. Ex allions of the poft- majhtr ibid. Pafiage-boats in Holland 404 Paliaw 473, 474. a dreadful fire there ibid. PalTerie, or making of raifins 715 Paulo Veronefe. See among the pictures. Paufilippus, mount, by fea 597. By land 601 Pebbles for making glajfes at Venice, how broke 501 Pedigree of the duke of Arfchot from Adam to the duke living in the reign of our king Charles II. 378. Of the Con- taren family 490. Of the Neapolitan kings 606 Perpetual motion, a vain attempt about it 424 Pefauro 690 PefceSpada, or fword-flfh, deferib'd 615. Meat of it much efteem’d ibid. Manner of fljhing for it ibid. Petroleum, a well of it in the territories of Modena 566 Pezenas, a very pretty city, 714 Phyficians defpis'd at Florence 641. Their fee at Rome about 3 s. 685. Eminent phyficians at Montpelier 715 Phyfick-garden at Leyden 399. At Am- fterdam 407. Utrecht 409. Altorf 468. Padua 529. Bononia 554. Two at Milan 577. One at Pila 594. Mel- fina 614. Montpelier 715 Piacenza, its citadel, domo, college of Eng- lifh Jefuits, &c. 569 Pictures at Gant 371, At Antwerp 380. Minheer Happaart’* fine collection of Ru¬ bens’* firft draughts 384. At Bredah 387. At the prince of Orange’* plcafure- hotife 393. At Rilwick 394. In the publick library at Leyden 400. At Har¬ lem 403. Aken 417. Collen 420. Frankfurt 426, 427. Worms 428, 529. Heidelberg 440. Bafil 445. Picture of the dance of death 446. Fine picture of the paffion in the ftadthoufe at Bafil, ibid. Pictures at Munichen 453, 456. Augsburgh 460, 464, 465. Of Jacob Fuggerus 460. At Nurcnberg 466. Ratisbon 472, 473. Venice 487, to 490, and 492, 497, 498. In the . Greek church there 510. At Padua 5 24, 531. In our lady's chapel at Vicenza 539. At Verona 543, 644, 547. Mantua 551. Bononia 553, 562, 563. Palace of the duke of Modena 565. Parma 567. Calepine’* picture at Ber¬ gamo 572. Pictures at Como 573. 9 E Milan INDEX. Milan 574, 577, to 580. Turin 584. La Venerie 585. Of an ox at Genoa which always turns its tail on the be- . holders 587. Other fine pieces at Genoa 588. Luca 591. Naples 600, 601. Picture prefiented by a bijhop to a harlot who fell in love with him .694. Pictures . /z/-Medina 614. Catania 627. Salerno 630. Florence 632 — 634. Some too nnmodeft' Pictures in the grand duke’s gallery 636 — 638. At Siena 646, 647. At Rome, fee from 647 to 686. At Loreto 688, 689. Lucern 700. Geneva 704. Lyons 707. Mont¬ pelier 716, 717. Aix 722, 723. Avignon 725. Valence 726 Bietre imbofcata 571, 644 Pilate’* pyramid 726 Piombino, a fovereign principality 631 Pifa, its aqueeduhl, excellent water, churches., campo fun to, merchants hall, bridges, annual fight, &c. 593, 594 Pifcena mirabilis, a ftately antiquity near Naples 597 Plants, curious ones growing near Calais 362. Near Louvain 377. yf* Antwerp 383, 384. Leyden 399. Between Mentz and Collen 424. Near Zurich 450. Near Schaffhaufen 451 • At Mu- nichen 457. Altorf 468. At Verona 340. Ten folio looks of them at Bononia 560. Dry’d plants at Bononia 561, Rare plants' growing there ibid. Aco- nitum hyemale in flower at Modena -■ 566. Plants in Piemont 586. On . mount Vefuvius 599-. Near Reggio 614. Plants and' Jhells in Sicily 618. Good plants about Salerno 630. Rare plants in a garden at Rome 656. In father Earlier 'sgarden there 669. Rare ones on the mountains about Geneva 706. Simples at Grenoble 709. Rare 'plants about Frontignan 714. Remarkable ones at Paris ' 730 Platerus’j mufaum 446 Pneumatick engine. See Hugenius. Podii, the family of that name at Luca, branded 592 Polifhing of ft ones at Florence 644 Polverara, noted for its particular kind of poultry 535. Schottus’* defeription of them exaggerated ibid. Pond, a fine one in ¥\oxcv\cq 6^o. A fub- tefraneoils one ibid. A boiling one 714 Pont du- Guard, a ftately antiquity 713 Ponte ville ■ \ 483 ’Pont S. Efpritr^yjr Grenoble 711 Pope, manner of his return -from faying thafs 651. Sermo'n preach’d’ before him 666. r Carry’d on mens Jhould'eri 67a. Account ■ of Alexander VII. 'and dm family 684 Pots to preferve grapes in all the winter 614 Pouille, noted for good windf 728 Pqzzq’s Yahtifo at Rome 679 Proceflion at Louvain 375. Antwerp 381, 383. Mentz 425. At Venice 494. Another 497. Another 499. Another ibid. Another in memory of the brides recover’d from the Iftrians 505. Procejfion at Bononia 558. Milan 580. Genoa on holy Thurfday589. Naples 597. Another 599. Another 604. At Medina, on occafion of the virgin’s letter to that city 613. Another on the fame occafton , ibid. Another , ibid. At Ly¬ ons 708 Promulfidarium guftatorum of the Ro¬ mans explain’d \ 528 Proteftants in Savoy, accounts of them 586 Proverb, a Venetian one 309. Other proverbs 534. Another of Vicenza 53 6. A proverb of Bononia 563. Proverbial faying of Genoa 587. ^Medina 615. At Malta 619. Aft Florence, with re¬ gard to that city, Pifa, Siena, and Luca 641. Saying on the Florentine and Ro¬ man pronunciation 645. A faying of the Sianefe 646. On the woods of Baccano, ibid. Pruck ander Muer 482 Pruneole eaten as a dainty at Florence 642 Pulvis fulminans, howto make it 518 Pnppet-play at Venice 517 Purpura, three forts amongthe Romans 528 Puteoli 597 Pyramid at Rome in memory of the affront ■put upon the French king’s ambajfador 651 Q UESELS, maids 0. cmiricho CL religious order of 375 64 6 R R ACK, a reprefentation of the antient one 560 Raifins, manner of making them 715 Ram, a monftrous one 361 Raphael Urbin, fee among the pidtures, rarities, &c. Rappers, a coUeflion of them at Bafil 445 Rarities in the armory at Bruflfels 372, 373. At Antwerp 380. Middleburg 385. Delft 391. Leyden 400. Of Dr. Van Horn 400, 401. At Utrecht 408. Aken4i7,4i8. Of J. P. Sedelmair 423, At Frankfurt 428. Frankendal 430. Heidelberg 440. Strasburg 442. Bafil 445. C^Platerus 446. At Zurich 448. Munichen .457. Augsburg 464. Al¬ torf 468. Venice in the private armory 490. Two fpiral alabofter pillars belong¬ ing to Solomon’* temple, fo tranfparent , that the Ugh} of a candle may be feen thro* the?n 492. Two jafper pillars hollowed and'filled with wax, ibid. Other rarities in S. Mark’* church, ibid. Others in Grimani’* palace 493. In the arfenal at Venice 494, 495. Rofachio’i rarities there I N D there 517. Marchetti’; at Padua 530. Garden at Verona 540. Of an apothe¬ cary at Verona 542, 543. Cabinet of Signior Mofcardo there 543. Of Sign. Mufello, and of Sign. Marco Sala, at Verona 547. Of Aldrovandus at Bo- nonia 559. Of the.duke o/M6dena 564. At Milan 574. Of Sign. Septala at Milan 575, 576. Other curiofeties there 577. Of Sign. Cavaliero’; at Milan 578. Other curiofities there 580. Rarities at Genoa 588 Remarkables at Naples 597, 600, 603. At Catania 627. At Florence in the gr. duke’s gallery 636. In the clofets of the gallery 637. In the armory 638, 639. At S. Mark’; church at Florence 639. S. Lorenzo’; chapel there 640. In the palace and gardens of Florence 640, 641. Fine pavements and repr.efentaiions in mo - faick wotk at Sienna 645. At Rome, See the author’s whole account of this city from page 647, to page 686. At Tivoli 674. Loreto 688. Ancona 689. S. Ma¬ rino 691. Ravenna 692, 693. Geneva 705. Lyons 708, 709. In the Grand Chartreufe710. At Orange 712. Mont- pelier717. Aixp 22,723. Nifmes 724 Rates paid at Dover 361. Calais 362. Gant 371. At fun dry places in the jour¬ ney from Vienna to Venice 482. For a inafs for the dead at Venice 496. One lately gave enough for twelve thoufand maffies ibid. Rate for a gondola at Venice 503. Rate given by a gentleman of Padua to be made a Venetian nobleman 530. From Padua to Vicenza 536. At Par¬ ma, Crema, Brefcia, (Ac. 568—572.- At Milan 583. In the journey from thence to Vercelli, ibid. In Savoy, ibid. 585. from Turin to Genoa 586. from Genoa to Leghorn by fea 590. At Naples 597. for piloting into Medina 610. for entring the po?'t of Malta 624. Rate of coaches at Florence per d iem 641. Of boar ding gentlemens daughters till mar¬ ry ’d, ibid, for horfes from Florence to Siena 645. To the fearchcrs , &c. at Rome 647. for a coach from Rome to Tivoli 674. from Ancona to Ravenna 699. Rate of money at Rimini 690. from Geneva to Lyons 707. At Gre¬ noble 709. from Grenoble to Orange 711. from thence to Avignon 712. At Montpelier 714. from Nifmes to Avig¬ non 724. from Avignon to Lyons 725. from Lyons to Paris 727 Ratisbon 470. Its great bridge ibid. A fatal emulation there between a mafler workman and his man,. ibidr Lutherans fervice there 470. Canons of Trinity church there all noblemen 472. All its magi- Jlrates enobled, ibid. Rooms where the dyel of the empire ajfemble 472, 473. E X. Ravenna, its antiquities, churches, convents, bad water, &c. 69 2, 693 Recanati 687 Receipt to make grey Cyprus powder 717 Another for making a pajle for perfuming churches ibid. See Medicines. Reggio 566. Stiles itfelf Citta fidele 614. Great quantiles of f Ik made here ibid. Reliques at Aken 418. At Collen 421, 422. At Mentz 425. At Vienna 477. In S. Peter’; at Venice497. InS. Peter’* at Rome 648. See alfo thro’ the whole defeription of Rome from page 648 to page 686. See alfo among the rarties, pictures, (Ac. Relle, Monf his microfcopes and per- fpeblivcs 717 Rens 423 Revenge, a fatal inflance of it at Padua 530 Ricci, Michael Angelo his choice li¬ brary 681 Ridotto at Venice 508 Rimini 690. Arches there ibid. Rifwick, gardens, pictures, &c. there 394 Rollar Argentoratenfis, a curious bird 459 Roman antiquities. See among the pictures and rarities Romanello. See among the pidlures. Romano, Julio. See among the pictures and rarities. Romauntfh language. Lord’s prayer in it 696. Specimen of it 697, 698 ROME. The fine filrudlures, monuments , antiquities, ruins , &c. of this imperial city , are fo much the fubjebt of the atten¬ tion of all polite perfons, that we cannot do better thafi to give the reader at one view, the particulars he may expect to find deferibed by our author •, obfierving, that under each fubfequent head is included an accurate account of theftatues, monu¬ ments, reliques , pictures, inficriptions , and other rarities to be met with therein \ Via Flaminia 647, 6S7. Pantheon, piazza Naone, obelisk, prince Pam- filio’i palace, Pafquin 647 Obelisks, piazza of S. Peter’;, portico of Alexander VII. 648 S. Peter’s church amply defend'd, with its reliques , cupola, monuments , pic¬ tures ., Jlatues, chapel, vaults , rnferip- tions, &c. 649 Palazzo di S. Officio, Campo Santo which confumes dead bodies in 24 hours, Meta Sudans, Titus Vefp. arch, Templum Pacis, Templum Jovis Statoris, Severus’; arch , Templum Concordias 650 Capitol, Columna Miliaris, Conferva- torio, palace of Chili, Monte Ca- vallo, pope’s palace 651 »r Villa INDEX. Villa Luduvifia, fountain of Mofes, ruins of Dioclefian’j baths 652 Pietro Montorio, Villa Pamfilia, Villa di Medici, Aquedudt built by Aug. Cefar, Trajan’ s pilar, obelisk , S. Maria Maggiore 653 St. John Lateran, Villa Borghefi 654 Caflle St. Angelo, Pons triumphalis, Via Angelica, Aqua Acetofa, La Sapienza or Studio 655 S. Spirito, S. Onuphrio, S. Andrea delle Valle, Campo de Fiore, Cor- vino’r Mufaeum, Templum Saturni, temple of Rom. and Remus, S. Theo¬ dore 656 Obfervation on Conflantine’r arch > Ve-> lia, Santa Chiara, handfotnejl lady in Rome, ruins of Aqua Clodia, Fref- cati, Mondragone, Belvedere, fignior Campani’r telefcopes , and his clock to fhew the hour of the night 657 Scala Santa, Columna Antonini 658 S. Apollinare, S. Maria Sopra Mi¬ nerva, piazza Giudea, Ponte S. Ma¬ ria, S. Maria Aigyptiaca, La Ma¬ donna del Sola, S. Maria in Cofme- din, Forum Boarium, Templum Jani quadri frontis, goldfmilhs arch, • S. George’j churchy ruins of the Ro¬ man granaries, ruin of Pons Subli- cius, Mons Tcftacius, ruinous arches of Aqua Aqued. Appie 659 Celtius’r pyramidal fepulchre, Circus Maximus, Antonini Thermae, ruins o/Claudius’j Aquedud, Maria Nova, S. Maria Liberatrice, Templum Martis, La Confolatione, Templum Minerve, Campo Vaccino, Annun- cia tella, P. Adnilius’r baths now S. Maria in Campo Carleo, Theatrum Marcelli, St. Mark’r palace , Gallie- nus’r arch, entrance of Sixtus V’s Aqueduct, Santa Croce 660 Galluzzo, S. Maria Tranftevere, St. Honufrio, S. Ifidore, ruins of Ther¬ ms Alexandrine & Thermae Agrip- pine, S. Carlo Borromeo’r church, S. Gregory on mount Celius, ^ Chri- ftina’j infcription on the Capitol, rarities at the Conferva tor io 661, 662 Ara Cceli, Vatican palace 662. Va¬ tican library, inferiptions in the vine¬ yard of S. Pietro in Vinculis 663, 664 Titus’.? baths, Oratorians cloifier, verfes on a wall nigh S. Maria del Popolo 665 Santa Maria del Popolo, hofpital S. Gia¬ como, S. Sylvefter in Montibus, S. Maria della vittoria 666 Palace of prince Paleftrine, S. Stefano Rotundo, S. Pietro in Vinculis, verfes on the Torre de Conti, S. Girolamo, S. Athanafio 667 Prince Giuftiniano’r palace, S. Pietro in Carceri, S. Conftantin 668 S. Agnefe, S. Sufanna, S. Bernardo, jS. Maria Minerva, S. Sabina, S. Alexius and Bonilacius, S. Eufe- bius, S. Praflide, S. Pudentiana, prince Colonna’r palacc % ruins of Nero’s Cafa Aurea 669 Pons Fabritii, Villa Farnefe, Auguf- tin’r library and churchy Villa Mat- thei, Villa Montalto 670 Ruins of Maufoleum Augufti 671 Vefpafian’j tomb , S. Maria in Campi- telli, S. Maria inviolata, Palazzo Farneze, epitaphs tranferibed at the Rotunda 672 St. Lawrence 674 St. Paul, St. Bernardo, Annunciata, Praetorian camp. Circus Caracalle, ancient grots at S. Sebaftian, in the Via Appia 675 Domine quo vadis, Trinita del Monte 676 Prince Pamfilio’r palace 677 Aldobrandini’j palace , Colonnefe pa¬ lace , 678 S. Cecilia in Tranftevere 683 Markets at Rome/jaw ftor'd 685. Poft- houfes there ibid. Monte de Pieta, Rome praifed by fome , difpraifed by others, Jefuits treafures, a lift of the Jove reign princes of Italy 686 Ronciglione 466 Rotterdam 388. Engine to rince linnen 389 Rubens, a rare picture of his 383. In¬ fcription under his picture at Antwerp, ibid. His firfi draughts bought at an auction for 6000 florins 384. Wills, that his firfl draughts fhould not be difpofed of 'till 14 years after his death, ibid. The fuppofed reafon of it, ibid. Whence 'tis conjectur'd he principally took his defigns , ibid. See alfo for more of his works un¬ der the article Pictures. Rubiera 566 S ANCERRE, French proteflants hold out a remarkable flege there 728 Sadie 485 Sack, Daniel, a very little man 521 Salerno 629. Monument of Gregory VII. ibid. Formerly an univerflty 630 Salon, tomb of Noftradamus there 723 Sanguinole, a fifo 571 Sannazarius, his monument, &c. 603 Saponette, a fine fort of flap at Milan, how to make it 577 Sardene, a flfh taken by means of fires made in the boats 615 Savoy, the duke's character, family. See. 584 Savoyards, chimney-fweepers at Paris 726 Saw-mills deferibed 470, 710, 711 SchafFhaufen 450. Its Arfenal ibid. Schurman, Anna Maria, a learned woman at Utrecht 409 Scotilh gentletnens names at Padua 52 6 Sculpture, See among the pictures and rarities. Scy 11 a and Charybdis 61 5 Sea- INDEX. Sea-horfe, skin of one defcribed 637 Sea-tortoifes, how caught 618 Sedans, almoft as big as coaches , ufed at Amfterdam 407 Senglea 622 Senigallia 689 Sepulchre. See infcriptions. Sepulchro d’Agrippinze 598 Sepulchro degli Gentili, near Naples ibid. Septala’s cabinet , at Milan 575 Servier’j cabinet at Lyons 708, 709 Sevenhuyfen, a pleafant wood there, abound¬ ing with birds 403 Shoes, Jtrange ones , for climbing mountains 483 Sicily 610 Siena 645, 646 Silk-dying at Vicenza 539 Silk-thread, manner of making it at Bo- nonia 559 Silk-twifring, at Vicenza, how perform’d 538 , 539 Silver-plate, manner of making it at Turin for weaving 584 Skeletons of father Gonzia at Modena, 565 one of an elephant at , Florence defcribed 638 Skins, how to drefs them with the hair on 533 Slaves, how employ’d at Leghorn 595 Better us’d there than at Genoa ibid. Sleifum, noted for excellent cheefe 458 Sluice, a remarkable one atY enice 523 Smock, the Virgin Mary’s, at Aken 418 Snake-ftone 571 Soap See Caftile-Soap. See alfo Saponetta. Solothurn 701 Solphaterra 598. Flores Sulphuris£tf//.w’d there) ibid. Brimjione made there for fale ibid. Soncin, what noted for 570 Sorghum, a kind of bread 486 Spaw, its medicinal waters 416 Spire 430. Cathedral pav’d with nothing but grave-jlones 432. A curious repre- fentation in J,tone there , ibid. Imperial chamber , ibid. ’Tobacco planted there ibid. Spoleto 687 Sports, at Geneva, on Sunday evenings , 704. An Italian fport , deriv’d from the old Romans 520 Statues at Gant 371. Brufifels372. Mach- lin 379. Antwerp 380. Statue of jujlice at Delft 389. At the prince of Orange’s pleafure-houfe 393. At Bofch 409. Liege 412, 413. Aken 417. Collen 420. Mentz 425. Munichen 453—457. Of 10 fons and 10 daugh¬ ters by the fame father and mother 455. At Augsburg 459. Of an ox at Nuren- berg, with a diftich wider it 468. At Venice 487, 490, 492, 498, 518. At Padua 532. Vicenza 537. Marmi- rolo548. Ferrara 552. Bononia 553, 554, 562. Piacenza 569. Como 573. Milan 574, 578, 579. Turin 584. Aleflandria 586. Genoa 588. Ligorn 595. Naples 600 to 6 03. Trapanum 612. Medina 610, 613, 614. In Malta 622. At Poggio Imperiale 632, 633. Florence 633 to 640, and 644. At Siena 645. Rome ; fee from page 647 to 686. At Macerata 687. Lo¬ reto 688, 689. Nifmes 713. Aix 723. Arles, ibid. Vienne 726. Mou- lins 728. Nevers ibid. Steno, Monf. a Dane, happy in making feveral anatomical difcoveries 718 Stinking wells at Mentz 428 Stones 571. Stones that die , and crumble to duft 576. Stones taken out of the Arnus, that will polifio 644. Stones with the fignatures of herbs , trees, &c. ibid. The ftone Julius Caefar food upon , when he harangu’d his foldiers , after he had pafs’d the Rubicon 690. 'Curious expe¬ riments on ft ones 718. Stone-quarries at Paris 729. Manner of hoifting up the ft ones there ibid. Strasburg 441. Women handfome 442. Its arjenal ibid. Famous clock 443, and curious fteeple ibid. Straubing 47 3 Stromboli 609 Sugar, how ?nade in Sicily 628 Sulphur river near Tivoli 674. It petri¬ fies the channel it runs in ibid. Stinks , and taftes naufeoufty ibid. Superftitious notions 492, 493, 542, 675 Swallbach, acid waters near it 423 Swedifh foldier , a pleafant ftory of one 734 Switz 700 Switzerland, miles there longer than thofe of Germany 447. Emulation among the Proteftant cantons 451. Farther account of that country 699 Sword-fifh. See Pefce Spada. Swords, manner of grinding them at Vi¬ enne 726 Syracufc, its fhore rocky ; ftraw-beacons there •, its fortifications , antiquities , ruins of the old city , the Auricula Dionyfii, &c. 616 T T ABLE of epitaphs on fome of the kings of Naples 606, 607, 608 Table-cloth, a rich one, above'three years in making 404 Taeks, Joanne, a very tall man 365 Talifmanical figures , a leflure on them 528 Taormina, in Sicily, fugar formerly made there 627 Tape-weaving, at Vianen 4 ©9 9 F Tarantula INDEX Tafantula, d fellow bitten by one 607. Sto¬ ries of the Tarantula fufpicious ibid. Strength of the polfon of one breaks two glajfes 656 Tartufule, what 564 Taxes, exorbitant ones, at Florence 642 Telefcopes, &c. 376. A fine one, made by Sign. Campani of Rome 657 Terni 687 Terra Sigillata dug at Malta 623 Terzas of Padua 529 Theatrum Olympicum, at Vicenza 536 Thynny-fifh, along the Calabrian coafi 629 Titian; See among the rarities. Tivoli, curiofities there 674 Tobacco planted at Frankfort 428, At Spire 43 2 Tolentino 687 Torcella 504 Torre del Arco 628 Torre del Afinelle at Bononia 5(53. Emu¬ lation of two workmen ibid. Toulon, its port, fortifications , French fleet there 7 20 Tournon, a ftately college of the Jefuits there 726 Tragedy at Venice defign'd to abufe Elizabeth 505 Travaglini, fign. a good chymift and na¬ tural philofopher at Venice 518. His re¬ ceipts for makingP ulvis fulminans andVi- trum Antimonii colore rubini, ib. Gives the procefs of making Caftile Joap ibid. Trent 6 95 Trevifo 486 Tridentus’r palace and ventiduff 540 Trinity blafphe7noufly reprefented at Padua Tropia, good red wine there 628. 53 i Women howl difmally at funerals, and go with their hair diJheveWd ibid. Trunks at Naples, in which are depofited the bodies of feveral kings 604 Turcois-ftone, naturally white, but turn'd blue by fire 718. A_ bifhopgot a vafifum of money by this art ibid. Turf, how made in Holland 402 Turin, its palaces, domo, &c. 584, 585 Turkilh wheat 485 Turks, 18 of them chrifien'd at Florence; the manner of it 641 V V ALETTA in the ifle of Malta 619 Valle, at Venice, what 504 Valteline 696, 697 Vards, marquis de, imprifon'd by the French king, and why 716 Vafa argentea, &c. of the Romans 528 Veere 385 S. Veit 483 Venerie Roy ale, a fine palace of the duke of Savoy 585 Venice. S. Mark-’j tower, piazza of S. Mark 486. II Broglio 487. The pa¬ lace 488. B alio ting-boxes 48 9. AJfem- bly of the great council ibid. Manner of balloting ibid. Private armory 490. Denonciefecrete 491, 495. S. Mark’* church 494. Jefuits, why banijh'd from Venice 493. ReJloAd ibid. Grimani’i palace ibid. Arfenal 494. Bucencoro 495. Author's circuit and obfervations in a gondola 496. Fifh-market ibid. Eighty-nine forts of fifh enumerated 497. Birds 28 forts fold in the bird - market ibid. Palace of the patriarch ibid. S. Salva- torb church 498. Other churches , build¬ ings, iflands, monuments and rarities 49 8, Sc feq. Making of looking-glajfes 500. Making of drinking-glaffes, ibid. Grind¬ ing of looking-glajfes 501. The comedy 502. Rudenefs of the Venetians thereat ibid. A Spanifh etnbaffador's funeral, ando .ulogium 502, 503. A tragedy 505. Opera's 506, 507. Puppet-play 517. Mint-houfe 518. Prohibited goods burnt there 519. Wines in requejl at Venice ibid. Poverty of fome of its noblemen ibid. Venice treacle ibid. Art of painting upon glafs 521, 522. See alfo p. 694 Ventiduct 540 Vercelli 58 ^..Opprefs'dby its fovereign , ib. Verdigreefe how made at Montpelier 714 Verona 540. Academy of mufick there 544 Verfes ; fee infcriptions. Vefuvius 599 Vianen 409 Vicenza 536. Its Theatrum Olympicum, ibid. Its amphitheatre, piazza, &c. ibid. Vienna, its fortifications 476. 50000 men faid to be requir'd to garifon it, ibid. 414 ft one fieps up to the top of the fteeple of the cathedral 477. Emperor's perfon (and attendants at high mafs ) deferib'd 478. The Hungarian and Jefuits colleges there 478. A noble column 478, 479. The place of fepulture of the Auflrian fajnily 479. The adjacent country aid fuburbs deferib'd 480 Vienne, in Dauphine, its antiquities 72 6. Grinding of fwords there ibid. Vilkirken, a particular kind of fritters made there 483 Villach . ibid. Vilfhoven 473 Vilvorden 379 Vines, two ways of planting them 717 Viol-ftrings, how made 532 Viterbo, an offenfive fulphur-well there 646 Vitriol-works, near Franchimont 417 Vitrum Antimonii colore rubini, &c. how to make it 518 Vittoriofa citta, in Malta 622 Vivarium at Mantua 551. Parma 567. Malta 623. Florence 639 Vivenan 412 Under- INDEX. Underwalden 700 United provinces. Holland. Univerfity of Louvain 376. Leyden. 399. Utrecht 407. Collen 421. Mentz 425. Heidelberg 433. Straf- burg 441. Bafil 444. Altorf 468. Padua 526, 527, 531. Catania 627. Valence 711. Orange 712. See aca¬ demy. Yolto Santo, expos’d at Rome to the people 665 Vomiting feldorn prefcrib’d by the Italian phyficians 643 Voritius ’s lectures 399 Voyage of the author from Genoa to Luca 590. From Luca to Naples 596. From Naples to Medina 609, 610. From Medina to Malta 616. From Medina to Salerno 628. From Naples to Leg¬ horn 630 Uri 700 S. Urfula, her ftory 420, 421 Utrecht, 407. Some chimnies there but little above the level of the Jireets ibid. W W AGGON to go without a horfe 469 Wangen, a free city 453 Warlike engines. See among the rarities. Wafifenfall, a village moft remarkable for the cataraft of the whole river Rhine there . 45 ° Water, a convenient contrivance with it 721 Water-fports at Florence 640. At Villa Ludovifia at Rome 652. At Mon- dragone 657. At Belvedere, ibid. At another Villa of prince Ludovifia, ibid. At the Vatican 663 Water-works at Bruges 369. Brufiels 371 Water furprifingly forc’d out of two fla- iues at Amfterdam 407. Water-works at Heidelberg 439. At Augsburg 464. Curious ones belonging to Huevener there 465. In count Valmarana’j palace at Vicenza 537. At Tivoli 674 Wax, red , to take off the impreffion of En- taglia’s, how ?nade 678 Wax, white, how to make it 7 l 5 Weeding engine ibid. Weidenberg 466 Whirlpool in the Danube 475 White-wine, how made to lajle like Rhe- nidi 409 Willegefus, firft biffop of Mentz, his mo- deft remembrance of his mean extraction 4 2 4 Willughby, Mr. his journey from Crema to Lodi andQomo 573 Wiltzburg, a Jlrongfort 466 Wine of Friuli not fit to drink 485. Wine in requeft at Venice5i9. Verona548. Bononia 563. Florence 641. Italian wines 643. A receipt to make new wine tafle like old 644. Wine at Rome 685 Lucern 700. Zug 701. Frontignan 7 J 4 Woman at Parma, without hands , who us’d her feet inftead of them 56 8 Women-porters 375 Women at Liege great drudges 41 6. Not fuffer’d to enter the Cartbufian monaflery at Ferrara 552. Queen c/Sweden, as fuch , refus’d admittance there ibid. Hang up their hair in token of chafiity 601. Women in Malta accounted infamous 623. At Tropia they howl difagreeably at fu¬ nerals 628. As alfo at Montpelier 716. EJleem’dhandfome at Montpelier ibid. Worms in the blood of the inhabitants of Florence 643 Worms city 428 Y Y ELLOW ochre burnt proves a red bolus 718 Young, Andrew, Baron de Baume, his monument at Calais 361 Yfere, the waters of the Rhofne and that keep unmingled after they had joyn’d 7 ” Z S. r J E N O obliges the devil to carry a large porphyry bafon from Jeru- falem to Verona 542 Zenon, Giacomo, his cabinet of rarities at Bononia 560 Zodiack drawn in the pavement of S. Pe- tronius’j church at Bononia 555 Zug, it slake affords fifty forts of fifh 701 Zurich 447, 701 FINIS. . ' "i. f J ? • . • - «• 1 * ,» ,v : ~ • •v \ ’ .: . t>7 . B- ' & ( < - ■ - „ . I * \ ■> * , * . - * . ' Date Due KM 1 3 49 I 1 FORM 335 45M 10-41 910.8 fC563C v.6 439990