rmm Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Duke University Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/brethrenofmountaOOstut THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS BEING THE FIRST PART OF AN AFRICAN THEOSOPHICAL STORY BY HUGH E. M. STUTFIELD, F.R.G.S. AUTHOR OF "el MAGHREB : I200 MILES* RIDE THROUGH MAROCCO " " A Lady-Witch there lived on Atlas Mountain " Shelley's IViich of Atlas LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO. AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST l6th STREET 1891 {All rights reserved) CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAC.B I. Concerning Divers Occult Matters .... i II. The Story of Ali the Persian 13 III. The City of Marocco 29 IV. Across the Atlas Mountains 42 v. The Robber Attack 54 VI. Through the Sus Valley 63 VII. The Lion Hunt 72 VIII. A Moorish Dinner-party 92 IX. The Fair at Sok el Area 100 X. The Sheikh Abd el Kreem in XI. The Executions 12S XII. Across the Great Desert 141 XIII. The Simoom 156 XIV. Mount Atlas at Last 166 XV. The Oasis and its Inhabitants 181 XVI. Concerning the Mahatmas 188 XVII. Leila 198 XVIII. Concerning Certain of the Deeper Occult Mysteries 211 XiX. On Sympneumatic Love 221 iv CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE XX. Of the Cave of the Elementals 232 XXI. I DISMISS MY GOOROO 237 XXII. The End of Singmya Songo 244 XXIII. We ascend Mount Atlas 249 XXIV. Victory! 267 XXV. The Avalanche 276 XXVI. Within the Cave of the Elementals . . . 289 XXVII. The Re-union of the Sympneumata .... 303 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. CHAPTER I. CONCERNING DIVERS OCCULT MATTERS. "Here's a spring, so let's stop and have lunch and count the bag. Twenty-three and a half brace of grouse, nine hares, and a couple of snipe, I make it." The scene was a moor in Inverness-shire, the speaker a fair-haired young man about twenty-five years of age, his audience two fellow grouse-shooters. It was piping hot, and the proposal seemed to find favour with the other two sportsmen, as they promptly threw themselves at full length on the heather and called loudly for drinks. " Gerald walks us off our legs all the morning, but I notice he's always the first to call a halt for lunch," remarked one of them, a man some fifteen years the senior of the first speaker. " Yes ; and I notice you are remarkably prompt in responding to the call," retorted Gerald ; " and you always begin by saying you're not a bit hungry, and then play the best knife and fork of any of us." The business of unpacking the luncheon-basket and spreading out its contents put an end to further B 2 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. banter, and conversation flagged until the viands were disposed of and pipes had been filled for a few minutes' quiet smoke. " Do you know," said Gerald, the young man who spoke first, " that, fond as I am of shooting over these hills, I often feel a longing to go further afield for wilder and bigger game. I had a few days' chamois- hunting in Switzerland last year, and I must say that this bird-slaughter has seemed to me rather tame sport ever since." " What a discontented chap you are, to be sure," said the second speaker ; " tired of grousing already before the evening of the Twelfth ! " " On the contrary," returned Gerald, " I'm not tired of it at all. There's nothing I enjoy more ; but that doesn't prevent my wanting to travel a bit. I've never been out of Europe yet. Will you fellows join me in a trip to South Africa ? I should like to go up into the Kalahari Desert and get some lions. Or stay, let's all go to Cashmere. We should get some first-class shooting, and we might pass over into the unexplored parts of Thibet. The trip would suit Urquhart, as an occultist, down to the ground, as we should be sure to come across some of his friends the Mahatmas (that's the right word, isn't it ?), trotting round in their astral bodies, and we might even reach the abode of the Thibetan Brothers themselves. What do you say to it, David ? " The individual addressed as David made no reply, but kept puffing away mechanically at his pipe, with his eyes fixed on the ground, as though absorbed in thought. " Why don't you answer ? " continued the younger CONCERNING DIVERS OCCULT MATTERS. 3 man, " Don't you approve of the idea, or have you something better of your own to suggest ? " " Well, perhaps I have, and perhaps I have not," was the enigmatical reply. " I may say that earlier in the year I had some idea of making a long journey this coming winter, but not to Thibet or Cashmere, where, by the way, one can only go in the summer. But I vote that we postpone further discussion of the subject till this evening. It's half-past two already, and time we were on the move again." " Dear me, David, you are very mysterious to-day," said Gerald. " I shall look forward to the adjourned debate on this important topic with much interest. Meanwhile, let's be off. I want to make the bag up to fifty brace this afternoon." So saying, he shouldered his gun, and, his com- panions following suit, the trio spread out in a line over the moor, and were soon blazing away merrily. Never does time pass more quickly than when one is enjoying good sport, and the afternoon wore on until the sun sank in golden glory to the rim of the purple hills which bounded the western landscape. Then as the light failed, and Nature became wrapped in the soft shades of twilight, they turned their foot- steps homewards. The hour and the fatigues of the day were not conducive to conversation, and the three sportsmen strode on in silence till they reached the shooting-lodge of Inverfechan, which lay half hidden by a clump of pines in a wooded glen. But it is time the reader was introduced to his new company. In the first place, to begin at the wrong end — by which I mean, in inverse order of importance — I, James Browne (don't forget the e, please), stock- 4 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. jobber of Capel Court, and the writer of this history, make my bow to the company, and beg to be excused the delicate task of describing myself. " Well, but we must at least hear what sort of looking man he is, you know." Then, Madam, if it so please you, to the best of my belief I am not very much to look at. Not that I mean to emulate the excessive modesty of some autobiographical heroes of fiction, and describe myself as a sort of baboon, combining in my own person the ugliness and the muscular power of that anthropoid. But if not exactly a Caliban, neither am I an Adonis. I am slightly above the middle height, not particularly fair nor yet excessively dark. My age — well, I don't think that is quite a fair question, but it is within a decade of forty. My hair used to be black. I am a bachelor. My talents, like my means, are moderate ; my disposition and temper even. My ideas, like my profession, are of the commonplace order. In fact, as the intelligent reader will have already discerned, there runs through me and my surroundings a current of mediocrity, unrelieved either by genius or even by its cheap modern substitute, eccentricity. Therefore, having said enough to satisfy all legitimate curiosity on the subject of myself, we will pass on to other and more interesting matters. Gerald Somervell, on the contrary, is distinctly a striking figure. Tall, broad-shouldered, athletic-look- ing, with his fair hair, clear blue eyes and ruddy complexion, his face full of frankness and beaming with good humour, he looks the very beau-ideal of a young Englishman. Not that he is altogether English, either ; and the humour which plays about CONCERNING DIVERS OCCULT MATTERS. 5 the corners of his mouth and sparkles in his eyes bespeaks, together with his name, the Irish blood which runs in his veins. He would be decidedly handsome (personally, I think he is) were it not that his features are very strongly marked and somewhat irregular. Rumour has it that the prominence of one organ in particular secured him the appellation of " Nosey " among his schoolfellows. Like most young Englishmen of our own day, he could hardly be described as intellectual ; but he is richly endowed with that shrewd common sense which in all practical affairs of life is a more valuable quality. Last, but not least, of our trio of grouse-shooters comes Urquhart — David Urquhart — who is in many respects the counterpart of Somervell, yet his dearest friend. Urquhart has just turned forty ; but he looks older, partly owing to a certain gravity — I had almost said austerity — of demeanour, and partly because of the grey threads which here and there streak his thick brown hair. His is distinctly a striking face. Massively formed brows overshadow deep-set grey eyes full of intellectuality. The forehead is broad and moderately lofty. The square jaw and sharply cut lips tell of resolution. Altogether the whole appearance of the man indicating, as it does, will- power and intellectual force, commands the respect and interest of the beholder. Though he has many friends, Urquhart could hardly be called a popular man. He is too reserved for that. Some people call him cynical, but his cynicism is, at any rate, not of the kind which, having an eye only for the bad side of human nature, is wanting in sympathy with human weakness. It is 6 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. rather that of a lofty nature disappointed at not find- ing the world better than it is, and failing in some degree to recognize the fact that average humanity is actuated by lower motives than those with which it had been credited. His friends have always written Urquhart down a confirmed bachelor. If asked why he did not marry, he would always turn the question in some way or another. It was whispered that he had odd ideas on the subject of matrimony — ideas of a soul-union, in which passion should have no part and love on the physical plane would be non-existent, with some complementary being, or guardian-inspiring angel, destined to form part of his nature. " Somewhere beneath the sun — These quivering heart-strings prove it — Somewhere there must be one Made for this heart to move it." Be that as it may, certain it is that he had never yet succeeded in coming across the person whose being should blend, and whose heart-strings should beat in unison, with his own ; and at the time of which I am now speaking people thought it was likely to be a long while before he found himself " suited." Urquhart had no profession. His means were suffi- cient to enable him to devote himself to a life of learned leisure, varied by travel and athletic sports. He was a many-sided man ; a man with numerous and diverse tastes and interests, who made it his business to extract as much interest out of life as possible, and, to do him justice, he succeeded admir- ably in his efforts. He was the keenest of sportsmen, a bold rider, and a first-class shot. In his younger CONCERNING DIVERS OCCULT MATTERS. 7 days he used to be a fair cricketer, and, like a good Scotchman, he was devoted to golf. Mountaineering was his favourite pastime, however, and his name was well-known in Alpine circles as that of a daring and successful climber. None the less was he essentially a man of books. Student and sportsman, and withal a shrewd, hard-headed man of the world, in him the practical and contemplative faculties were curiously blended. His imaginative temperament gave a meta- physical turn to his studies, for metaphysics, particu- larly of the Oriental type, were his chief delight. From metaphysics to mysticism is not a far cry, and during a visit to India he had come in contact with the devotees of the Occult Fraternity of Thibet, and had even been enrolled as a member of the Theo- sophical Society. Yet was he no vulgar " spookist " — of the type, I mean, of those who simply hanker after " manifestations " or marvellous phenomena. His occultism was rather the search after abstractions, and the striving to get on a higher plane of spiritual life. Moreover, though he disapproved of " manifes- tations " as tending to trickery, he had none the less a firm belief in certain forces of nature with which mankind in its present stage of development is un- acquainted, and also in the existence of persons possessing a command over those forces. It was only to be expected that Urquhart should have to bear much chaff from unbelieving friends on account of his theosophical proclivities. Gerald in particular was never tired of rallying him on the subject. " How on earth," he would say, " a sensible chap like David can believe in all that fantastic fiddle- 8 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. faddle about Mahatmas and astral bodies, and the rest of it, passes my comprehension." Urquhart, however, was not the man to be deterred from his purpose by any amount of chaff, and he con- tinued to devote his very considerable energies to the investigation of psychical problems and the hidden laws of Nature. My readers may recollect the genesis and growth of that strange metaphysical medley of Hindoo and Hebrew mysticism, Platonic and Pythagorean trans- cendentalism, and modern spiritualism — variously labelled as Theosophy, Occultism, or Esoteric Buddhism — whose apostles in the West claim to have received their inspiration direct from the fountain head, pretty much as Mohammed received his Suras from the angel Gabriel, or as Joe Smith the Mormon was prompted by the angel of the Lord. The earlier students of Theosophy, like the early Christians, were seekers after a sign, and some strange signs were given them. The wonders worked by Madame Blavatsky were accepted by her faithful followers as a proof of her mission. She did not encourage " manifestations," for, like her Thibetan instructors, she had "an unconquerable aversion to showing off," but none the less did the " manifestations " persist in asserting themselves. Tables and chairs waltzed round the room in aggravating style, luminous balls of fire played about the furniture, cigarette cases came to hand of their own accord, and on one occasion a large spoon which was required for the performance flew out of the opposite wall into Madame's lap. All this and much more — such as occult bells in the air, the astral call of the distant Mahatma, the finding of CONCERNING DIVERS OCCULT MATTERS. 9 cups and saucers under trees — arc they not written with artless simplicity in the book of the chronicles of Mr. Sinnett ? An irreverent world, however — the " laughing jackasses," as he aptly styles them, of sceptical criticism — snorted and jeered at these phenomena. Unkind people said the cups and saucers were buried beforehand, and that the " astral call-bell" was in reality concealed in Madame's bustle. Hence subsequent occult publications have dealt more with the philosophical aspect of the subject, leaving aside the question of the miraculous powers of the Brethren till a more favourable oppor- tunity occurs for their vindication. Such an oppor- tunity has now arrived, and I trust that this volume will be accepted as a complete, if tardy, proof of the accuracy of Mr. Sinnett and his brothers and sisters in the field of hermetic research. In the days of which I am now writing I was not an occultist myself. For instance, I never used to believe even in the existence of the occult Adepts. Now, however, that I have myself had two or three tame Mahatmas on hand for a considerable time (a privilege few other men have enjoyed), I know what wonderful people they are, and I can add my testimony to that of the other authors who have written on the subject. It is asserted,^ for example, that the Adept can make himself "visible and invisible at will, fly through the air, walk on water as other people would on dry land, . . . dry up the sea, grasp the sun and moon, hide the earth with the tip of his finger, shake to their foundations earth and heaven." Most people would refuse to credit such statements. I, on the ' " The Mystery of the Ages," by the Countess of Caithness, p. 55. lo THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. Other hand, know very well that these are only a few of the minor feats of the Adepts, and nothing to what they could do if they really tried. It will be seen, therefore, by those who persevere to the end of this volume, that circumstances over which I had no control have made of me an occultist of the first water. I have emerged from the slough of ignorance in which the practical work-a-day world is at present immersed. The City man that in the darkness sat of the Eldorado Railway Share Market has seen a great light ; and, illumined by the rays flashed upon me from the Hidden Wisdom, I can afford, along with my brother occultists, to look down with sublime pity on those who yet grovel in purblind ignorance of the higher teaching. True, that with my study of the Great Arcanum I combine the trade of a stock-jobber ; that to my struggle to attain the ideal and the absolute I add the pursuit of the nimble ninepence ; and that my literature is a judicious blend of Esoteric Buddhism and Eldorado Railway trafific returns. Yet can mundame pursuit never wholly engross a soul once imbued with the infinite mysteries of the unknowable, and the lessons I learned in the course of my intimacy with the Adepts remain with me as a precious heirloom, beside which the things of this phenomenal world are but as dross. At the same time, I must confess that my partici- pation in the priceless wisdom distilled from the lips of the initiates is a grave responsibility which weighs heavily upon me. I feel that the world is not yet fitted to share in the dazzling revelations of which I have been the unworthy recipient — revelations which, if published in their entirety, would take the CONCERNING DIVERS OCCULT MATTERS. il shine out of " The Secret Doctrine " and " Isis Un- veiled," and make Mr. Sinnett's disclosures appear the smallest of small potatoes. Some modicum, how- ever, of the secret knowledge I have, after due delibera- tion, decided to make known to the world. It may be said that I am profaning the mysteries of the Great Arcanum ; that I am casting the precious pearls of esoteric lore to be trampled under the swine-hoofs of Western sceptics. I am, moreover, aware that, as has recently been pointed out,^ to impart to the profane multitude secrets of such vast importance, involving cognizance of occult agencies of tremendous power, is highly dangerous and like giving a child a lighted candle in a powder magazine. I fully accept the responsibility for my action in the matter. Nay, more, I admit that if the world is blown up, or if any other cosmical cataclysm occurs in con- sequence of the publication of this book, the fault will be mine. As, however, in that case I shall not be here to be called to account, perhaps that does not matter much. But this much I will say in my own defence, that I was not the first to offend in this matter of letting the occult cat out of the theosophical bag. Had not Madame Blavatsky, Mr. Sinnett, Mr. Laurence Oliphant, and their various disciples, flooded the world with such scraps of the Hidden Wisdom as they possess — " scraps," I say, compared with the full measure of spiritual enlightenment which has been vouchsafed to me — wild horses could not have torn the dread secret from my bosom. As it is, they were the first to begin, and on their heads be it if evil ensues. * "The Secret Doctrine," by Madame Blavatsky. 12 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. But enough of this for the present. It is time I got on with my story. I have only to add that this book, like many other works of travel, is written to " supply a long-felt want," viz. the want of the narrator to publish his experiences and adventures to the world. ( 13 ) CHAPTER II. THE STORY OF ALI THE PERSIAN. " Now, David," said Gerald as we were enjoying our pipes in the smoking-room after dinner, "we want to hear what you have got to say on the matter of our expedition to foreign parts. You looked so mysterious this morning when I mentioned it, that I am sure you must have some proposition to make. Out with it now ; we are all ears." " Don't be impatient, my dear boy," replied Urquhart, puffing away in a leisurely manner at his pipe, " and above all beware of jumping too hastily to conclusions. How do you know I have any suggestion to make ? The idea emanated entirely from you. I have no objection to your going to Cashmere, if you like ; only please don't ask me to accompany you." " What, not even for the chance of seeing your friends the Thibetan Brothers ? I am dying to see those remarkable people myself" " Not even for the chance of seeing my friends the Thibetan Brothers, as you call them, though, as a matter of fact, I never had the privilege of 14 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. their acquaintance ; and I can assure you that they are not so prodigal of their society as to lavish it on any wandering sportsman who may happen to be in the neighbourhood of their retreats." " Well, then, I must try and get Browne to come." " Thanks," said I, " I fear my arduous duties in the City would hardly permit of my being away for so long a time. Besides, I fancy the shooting in Cash- mere is getting rather played out. So many people go there nowadays." Gerald seemed rather mortified at not meeting with more encouragement in his sporting plans, so, putting his legs up on a chair, he took refuge in silence and an extra stiff glass of whiskey toddy. " Why don't you organize a shooting party for the wilds of Central Africa ? " I suggested. "It would be a far more novel and interesting trip than Cashmere, and you would come across fifty times more game. Only, if you are so anxious to see the occult brethren, I don't suppose there are any Mahatmas in that part of the world." " How do you know that } " interposed Urquhart somewhat sharply, laying down his pipe and looking at me. " I don't pretend to know anything about it. I only said I supposed there were none." "Hullo, David! "cried Gerald, observing his friend's unusually animated manner. "What's up now? I'm sure you've got some deep game on with your mysterious airs and reticence." But Urquhart had returned to his impassive de- meanour and his pipe, at which he kept puffing away in a deliberate fashion which somewhat irritated THE STORY OF A LI THE PERSIAN. 15 Gerald, whose curiosity was aroused by the air of mystery which Urquhart, partly to tease him, had assumed. " I am not at all averse to going to Central Africa," said Gerald, " only it would be a much bigger affair than the trip to Cashmere, and would want a lot more time and money. Besides, if neither of you fellows will go with me, it's no use thinking any more about it, as I wouldn't dream of starting on an expedition of that sort with men I did not know thoroughly well." " I never said that I wouldn't go to Africa," rejoined Urquhart ; " I am not aware that you ever asked me to accompany you there. Look here," he continued after a pause, " now that we are on the subject of African travel, and as our friend Gerald seems so curious about it, I don't mind unburdening my mind to you of a project which has long been in my thoughts, and, if either or both you will assist me in carrying it out, I shall be very well pleased. " Last winter, as you know, I was travelling with three friends in the interior of Marocco. We did not get as far up country as I had hoped, and I was disappointed in my main desire to penetrate into the heart of the Atlas mountains. Still we had an excellent time, had lots of pig-sticking, shot innumer- able snipe and partridges and bustards, and saw many strange things. But to me neither the sport nor the sight-seeing, much as I enjoyed both, compared in point of interest with a certain discovery which I accidentally made. I say ' discovery ' because, although I have not yet had an opportunity of verifying the information I received, I am satisfied in i6 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. my own mind of its substantial accuracy, and am prepared to act on it without further inquiry. The thing came about in this way. " After wandering about for several months, our party had settled down for a few days in the city of Marocco, which, as you know, is the southern capital of the Moorish empire. Desirous of seeing all the sights of the place, even the most unpleasant, we were making the round of the city prisons. Those dark and horrible dens, reeking with every sort of abomimation, were crowded with miserable beings in every stage of disease and emaciation. In one I remember seeing a raving lunatic chained by the neck with a steel collar to a pillar in the midst of his fellow-prisoners. His struggles to get free were something awful to witness, and the place resounded with his shrieks. Beside him, in the filth which lay thick upon the floor, lay an unhappy wretch, with a cannon-ball tied to his ankles, and heavy manacles on both hands. As with difficulty, owing to the stench, we put our heads through the aperture where the prisoners receive their scanty pittance of bread, the whole crowd rose and begged for food and succour, but beyond thrusting in a few loaves, which were greedily devoured, we could do nothing. " Filled with horror at the sight of such cruel suffering, I cast about me to see if I could not do something towards securing the liberty of some of the prisoners. An opportunity was not long in pre- senting itself The cases which appeared to me the saddest were those of certain unhappy debtors, who were the victims of that abominable system of foreign protection, which eats like a canker into the heart THE STORY OF A LI THE PERSIAN. 17 of the Moorish political system. I had heard much of the iniquities perpetrated by Jews and Moors, especially the former, who, having secured 'patents' of foreign nationality, used them for the purpose of extorting money out of the natives, and now I saw with my own eyes the victims of their machinations. From trustworthy sources of information I learned that some of the dungeons were filled with people against whom claims for imaginary debts had been preferred. Unwilling or unable to pay, powerless to obtain redress against men who sheltered themselves beneath the eegis of a foreign flag, they had been clapped in the debtors' prisons. It was in one of these prisons that I happened to come across the man to whom I owe the discovery of which I spoke just now. " Having bought a good supply of bread, I had taken it to one of the foulest and most crowded of the dungeons. As the first loaf was pushed through the aperture, the mob of prisoners came crowding round, jabbering and gesticulating like lunatics, and fighting for their share of the food. Behind this mass of squalid and despairing humanity,, but taking no part in the struggle for the bread, I noticed one prisoner of a type superior to the rest. He was a man entering upon the evening of life, with a long iron-grey beard, and there was a look of despair and suffering, both physical and mental, on his face, which was pitiful to behold. His features were distinctly Oriental, but cast in a more refined and intellectual mould than those of the barbarous natives of Marocco. When I first observed him he was squatting on the floor ; but presently he rose slowly and painfully to C l8 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. his feet, and I could see that there were fetters round both his legs which, from their size and weight, were eating into the flesh. Struck with the appearance of the man, and full of pity for his miserable plight, I endeavoured to induce him to come and speak to me. The gaoler, seeing what I wanted, and hoping to get backsheesh out of the Nazarene, laid lustily about him with his cowhide whip, and the famished crew of prisoners soon fell back, jabbering and howling, from the opening, leaving a passage clear for the man I wanted. With a pitiable air of weariness and dejec- tion, and hanging his head in shamefaced fashion, he dragged himself to the aperture. He seemed un- willing to speak at first, but at length, convinced that he was dealing with a friend, and that his words would not be used against him, he proceeded to unfold a tale of cruelty and wrong which, unfor- tunately, is only an instance of what is going on every day throughout that beautiful but most un- happy country. " He said that his name was AH Abd el Ressool — All the Slave of the Prophet, or, more correctly, the Apostle. He was a Persian by birth, but had resided for the last ten years in Marocco, During the greater part of that time he had been engaged in trade as a wool and hide merchant in one of the coast towns, and had managed in that way to amass a tolerable competence. Having the misfortune to become embroiled in a quarrel with a rich Jew who enjoyed American ' protection,' the latter cast about him for the means of obtaining his revenge. Nor was oppor- tunity long in presenting itself to the Jew's vindictive- ness. An American merchant residing in the same THE STORY OF ALT THE PERSIAN. 19 town was returning one evening from a shooting expedition when he was set upon by a band of robbers, who, after brutally ill-using him, stripped him of his effects, and left him dying by the roadside. It happened that the outrage took place close to the house which Ali occupied on the outskirts of the town ; and the Jew, seizing his occasion, denounced Ali as the real author and instigator of the crime. Colour was further lent to the charge by the fact, which Ali could not deny, that at the time of the murder he was in the merchant's debt for a con- siderable sum. Hoping to kill two birds with one stone, and seeing his way to do a little business on his own account, the Jew, besides accusing Ali of murder and robbery, preferred against him a false claim for several thousand dollars, which he said Ali owed him in connection with some commercial transactions in the interior. " Shortly afterwards the unhappy Ali, who little suspected the plot that was hatching against him, was arrested on the double charge of murder and debt, despoiled of all his possessions, and, after being brutally flogged, was marched off in chains with a gang of criminals to the city of Marocco. Here he was cast into prison, and had remained for more than a year in durance vile until I appeared on the scene. " To make a long story short, by dint of urgent representations at the Moorish Court and a substantial bribe to the Grand Vizier, we managed to secure the unfortunate All's release. I can never forget the poor fellow's surprise and joy on receiving the news that he was a free man. He seemed literally overwhelmed 20 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. by the shock, and it was not until we had brought the gaoler in to knock the fetters from his feet that he could realize the extent of his good fortune. With tears and protestations of gratitude, and oft-repeated promises to repay at the first opportunity the money we had expended on his behalf, he staggered out of the prison door into the light of day. Being too weak and ill to walk, he was placed on a mule and conveyed to our lodgings in the town, where, after a {q.\n days' rest and careful treatment, he recovered sufficiently to accompany us on our journey to the sea-coast." " A very interesting story indeed," remarked Gerald during a short interval, in the course of which Urqu- hart helped himself to some light refreshment in the shape of a whiskey-and-soda ; " but what has it to do with your discovery and our projected trip to Central Africa ? " "Don't be in a hurry," rejoined Urquhart. "You are always so impatient. I am coming to all that presently. Well, after the turn I had been able to do him, it was only natural that Ali and I should become pretty firm friends. Among other things he told me his history previous to his arrival in Marocco, and a very interesting story it was. He appears to have left his native country, Persia, at an early age, and to have entered the employ of a wool merchant who was starting upon a trading tour through Turkestan and Afghanistan. Near the borders of the two countries their caravan was attacked by robbers, his master the merchant slain, and himself taken prisoner and sold into slavery. His captors, who were hillmen of the Hindoo Koosh, conveyed THE STORY OF A LI THE PERSIAN. zi him several days' march to their village in a remote valley among- the mountains. Here he was kept a close prisoner for several weeks, till at length, having by his docility and industry won the confidence of his new masters, he was allowed more liberty, and finally employed by them as a shepherd. " While engaged in this capacity, he was climbing the hillside one day in search of a lamb which had strayed from the flock, when he came upon a .tiny hut built upon the banks of a brook which flowed through a rocky glen. The hut proved to be the abode of a hermit whose holiness and supernatural powers were the frequent theme of conversation among the simple peasantry of the district. This hermit was in reality a mystic, who had retired to these mountain fastnesses in order, by a life of austerity and solitary contemplation, to attain to that lofty state of spiritual exaltation so hard to achieve amid the turmoil and bustle of the civilized world. He was a member of one of the occult fraternities which are scattered over all that part of Asia — not a Mahatma, or Adept, but a devotee and student, of advanced grade, of the esoteric sciences. To be brief, Ali entered into con- versation with the hermit, and this was the beginning of a more intimate and lasting acquaintance. During an intercourse which extended over several months, the mystic discerned in the youthful Persian the germs of a spiritual nature far transcending those of the barbarous tribesmen with whom he lived, and he began gradually to plant in his new pupil's mind the seeds of hermetic knowledge. For this purpose Ali was compelled to absent himself a good deal from his other duties, but the awe and veneration in which the 22 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. hermit was held obviated any difficulties which might otherwise have arisen on that account. As a Persian, Ali had naturally been reared in the Shiite branch of the Mohammedan creed, but the more liberal opinions entertained by the sectaries of that Church enabled him to prosecute his studies without doing violence to his conscience as an orthodox follower of the Prophet. Under the hermit's guidance he passed rapidly through those earlier stages of occult develop- ment which the novice in mysticism must surmount before he even attains the subordinate rank of chela!' For the benefit of those of my readers who are not " esoteric," I will here explain that a chela is an occult neophyte. Chelaship is the lowest grade in the occult hierarchy, if I may so express it, yet its attain- ment is so difficult, the necessary training so severe, and success so precarious and uncertain, that many people give up the attempt in despair. For instance, if you abjure soap and nourishing food, wear a hair shirt, and sit on the point of a nail for twenty or thirty years, you may perhaps become a chela. On the other hand, you may not. Whether the game is worth the candle must be left to individual taste and judgment to decide. " I will not weary you," continued Urquhart, " with the details of All's progress, as recounted by him to me, in the study and practice of occult science. Suffice it to say that, through the influence of the hermit, he ultimately regained his liberty and made his way down into India, where he continued with ardour the studies he had commenced under the tuition of the mystic of the Hindoo Koosh. And now I approach that part of my story which is more THE STORY OF A LI THE PERSIAN. 23 immediately pertinent to the subject we were dis- cussing a few minutes ago. Ali had taken up his abode in Calcutta. In that town, through the good offices of a theosophical Baboo, he secured the privilege of the acquaintance of a certain Arhat, or Adept, of great eminence, from whom he learned many of the deeper truths of the Secret Doctrine. This Arhat was a member of the occult Brotherhood of Thibet, and he had studied esoteric science at the celebrated lamasery of Sakia Djong, alluded to by Mr. Sinnett^ as the Thibetan residence of Gong Sso Rimbo Chay, the spiritual chief of the heretical sect of Dugpas, or Red Caps. From Sakia Djong the Arhat made frequent journeys in his astral body (in which, as you know, the higher Adepts can flit about the world at will), and in the course of one of these journeys he found himself in the middle of Africa " " Oh, I say, come now ! " murmured Gerald in a sleepy tone. " I've a pretty good digestion, as you are aware, but I can't quite swallow all that. When are you coming to the point ? " "Don't interrupt," said Urquhart. "I know I am rather long-winded, but I am getting near the end of my story. Besides, please remember that it was you who insisted on dragging it all out of me. To resume. The Arhat, in conjunction with two or three brother Adepts, had conceived the idea of planting, in the most remote and unexplored regions of Africa, an occult community which should rival, or even outshine, the famous Brotherhood of Thibet, and the project once conceived was promptly put into execution. As you are doubtless aware, the ' "Esoteric Buddhism, " p. 191. 24 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. Mahatmas seek the most isolated spots on the world's surface for their abodes, where all contact with impure Western magnetism is rendered impossible. As far as I can learn, the place selected by our Arhat for his experiment was already tenanted by a small band of mystics, and he proposed to engraft thereon a colony of Initiates versed in the higher mysteries of occult enlightenment. " In the course of their long acquaintance and intercourse the Arhat conceived a feeling of genuine affection for his new chela, in whose rapidly expand- ing spiritual understanding he saw reflected the accumulated stores of his own ripe wisdom, and regarded him as his most promising pupil. This affection was amply reciprocated by Ali, who added thereto a sentiment of reverential awe for his gcoroo, or teacher. Hence it came about that on the Arhat's return to Africa (this time in his full rupa, or material body), he took Ali with him, though the latter did not accompany his master on his journey into the far interior. At the same time the Persian was entrusted with the secret of the locality of the African Brother- hood's retreat, and he has had full permission to confide the same to me. Nevertheless, if I now impart it to you it must be under a promise of the strictest secrecy, at any rate for the present. Do you understand ? " " We swear it," I solemnly replied for myself and Gerald, whose head was nodding over the side of his arm-chair and emitting strange guttural sounds at intervals. " Well, the spot chosen as the earthly home of this mysterious colony is a lofty and solitary mountain, THE STORY OF ALI THE PERSIAN. 25 rising among the sands in the middle of the Sahara, which has never been visited or even seen by- European explorers. During my travels in Marocco I heard stories among the natives of a mighty peak far in the interior, called the 'Djebel Tselj ' (the Mountain of Snow), or simply, 'Djebel Kebeer' (the Great Mountain), which was popularly supposed to be tenanted by Marabouts, or holy men, gifted with supernatural powers. I had, however, regarded all these rumours as inventions of the natives until I learned from AH the above-mentioned facts." "Do you really think it possible," I asked, "that such a mountain could exist without modern geographers being aware of it ? " " I certainly think it quite possible," replied Urquhart, " as the peak in question lies far to the east of the ordinary caravan routes to Timbuctoo and the Soudan. Besides, the desert which has to be crossed before you reach it is of immense extent and very difficult to traverse, the wells being few in number, and the water in them scanty and brackish. " Let me tell you, further, that, however much our modern geographers may be at fault in not having discovered this mountain, it is plain to my mind that it was known to the ancients. Herodotus, to begin with, locates Mount Atlas and the Atlanteans in the Sahara far to the south of Marocco, and he describes the mountain as being ' taper and circular.' Who was responsible for the information I know not, but if you read your Pliny you will find that his description of Atlas, fabled to be the supporter of the world, tallies in almost every respect with that given to me by Ali of the Djebel Kebeer. They both speak of it 26 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. as a single solitary mountain in the African Desert, surrounded on all sides by sandy wastes. Now, it is absurd to suppose that when Pliny and Herodotus allude to an isolated peak ^ rearing its majestic head out of an expanse of surrounding desert, they can have meant the Atlas Mountains near the city of Marocco. In the first place, the latter form a chain of great length and of singular uniformity as regards height. The range does not contain a single peak of conspicuous eminence throughout its extent. Secondly, they do not rise out of the sand, as there is no desert within a hundred miles of their base, and their sides are not rugged but gently sloping. You must remember, too, that ' Atlas ' is a widely used term. It is applied to the Algerian highlands, to the Beni Hassan range near Tetuan, as well as to the main chain of Marocco. To my mind it is patent that the Mount Atlas of the ancients is the Djebel Kebeer, or Great Mountain, of which I heard rumours in Marocco, and that it has no more connection with the Atlas range near Marocco city than Ben Nevis has with Kinchinjunga, Anyhow, be that as it may, and laugh as you will at my credulity, I believe in the accuracy of the stories I have heard, and, what is more, I mean to go and test their truth myself and to explore Mount Atlas. The question is, will you fellows come with me } " Gerald, who had just woke up and had heard Urquhart's concluding sentence, expressed himself as willing to go anywhere his friend liked, " if only for the fun of the thing," though at that moment he ■ "E mediis hunc (Atlantem) arenis attoUi prodiderunt." — Pliny, De Rerum Nat., Book v., ch. i. THE STORY OF ALT THE PERSIAN. 27 had but the vaguest notion of what Urquhart had been talking about. " Of course," he said to me after- wards, " it's all humbug about this mountain and its mysterious inhabitants ; but still, as old David seems bent on going, I shall go with him. Only, as I am not particularly keen about the Atlantean Brethren myself, I hope we shall get a bit of shooting on the way." There was something rather touching about Gerald's devotion to his friend and the readiness with which he fell in with his views. I verily believe that if Urquhart had suggested a trip to the moon Gerald would have ordered a flying-machine on his own account in order to keep him company. For my own part, I could not acquiesce so readily in taking part in an expedition which I knew would require an absence from England of more than a year — I mean on the most favourable supposition that we did not leave our bones to bleach on the sands of the Sahara. I therefore declined to give a definite answer until I had had time to think the matter over carefully. I heard little further on the subject for some months after I had left Inverfechan and returned to London, and I had begun to think that Urquhart had abandoned his project. One day, however, early in the following January, I chanced to run up against him in Piccadilly, and he told me that he and Somervell had almost made up their minds to leave England for Africa in the course of the next month. " Come and dine with me at the club," he said ; " Gerald's coming, and I want to talk to you about that matter we were discussing last summer at Inver- fechan. It is pretty well settled that Gerald and I 28 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. start in a month's time for Marocco city. Old Ali is living there now, and he has promised to take us to Mount Atlas. What we want to know is, whether you will come with us. You've had lots of time to think the matter over, and to come to a decision one way or the other." Well, to make a long story short, at that dinner we discussed the matter fully, and, under the influence of Urquhart's good cheer, and the pressure put upon me by him and Somervell, I consented to join them on their madcap enterprise. " Come along, Jim, " cried Gerald, in his cheerily persuasive way ; " life is short, and you've no ties at home beyond your Eldorado Railway shares. What's the use of making money if you can't enjoy your- self ? " So it was arranged that I should go with them. An Englishman's ideas of enjoyment are different from those of most other people, but I doubt whether if we had known what the next year had in store for us all, we should have set forth in this light-hearted fashion ; and Gerald might have talked less glibly about " enjoying " himself It is well, perhaps, for human nature that it does not know all that the future has in store for it. Our present troubles are enough, in all conscience, and we should be thankful that we have not to add to them the anticipation of evil to come. ( 29 ) CHAPTER III. - THE CITY OF MAROCCO. " FestiNARE in inedias res " is a golden rule of com- position, and I fear that I have been an unconscion- able time about beginning my story. However, it is a fault that I share with many other tellers of tales. Plow many a good and otherwise interesting book is marred by the unutterable tediousness of its opening chapters ! In our case the medics res would be some- where in the middle of the Sahara, which, you will agree with me, would be from Piccadilly too big and sudden a jump. Behold us, therefore, encamped, on this morning of the 15th of May, in a diiar, or Arab tent village, on the road to jMarakesh, the city of Marocco. We started from the seaport town of Mazagan, and have already been four days on the march. We ought to be almost at Marakesh by now, but having come out to enjoy ourselves we are taking things easy. The sun has just risen, and the dew diamonds yet sparkle on the tender grass-blades, and the air is keen and fresh. Our Moorish servants are just striking the tents and loading the mules, chattering, squabbling, 30 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. gesticulating, as they always do whenever they have any work on hand. What a noise and fuss they make ! That tall Moor looks as if he is just going to cut his fellow-servant's throat, but as a matter of fact he is only asking him to give a hand with that big box. Wasn't it Longfellow who wrote those pretty lines — " And shall fold their tents like the Arabs, And as silently steal away " ? Whoever it was, he can never have had much to do with Arabs, as no member of that lively race was ever known to behave as there described. When folded, the tent has still to be put on the back of the pack-animal, and he is sure to require much whacking and objurgation. Then it is even betting that one of the mules will start kicking. To stop him an extra hundredweight of cargo is put on his back, and a Moor jumps on the top to keep his heels down. The mule resents this, and sends the whole bag of tricks flying, and probably finishes by landing the Moor a nasty one as he lies on the ground. All this engenders a vast amount of heat and profanity, so that it will be seen that the poet's picture of the breaking up of an Eastern encampment is entirely a creation of fancy, and has no foundation in fact. While these preliminaries are being concluded we mount our horses and enjoy a scamper over the plain. Oh, the sense of exhilaration at being once more in the Avilds amid a primitive people ; far from the busy town with its petty cares and still pettier pleasures, its Mammon-seeking and tuft-hunting, its muffin- fights and money-grubbing ; the desert before you, and the broad blue African sky above ! Look at THE CITY OF MAROCCO. 31 Urquhart galloping away on his handsome black barb; isn't he just enjoying himself! And Gerald, too, on his natty little chestnut, which I had an eye on for myself, by the way, before he bought him. For real, genuine pleasure give me foreign travel in out-of-the-way places, where everything is new and interesting — rich food for eye and brain for those who can take in what they see. " Fools wander, wise men travel," and though some there be who, as Sterne says, may travel from Dan to Beersheba, and find it all barren, yet to the man of understanding a journey through this quaint land is an education in itself It seems to quicken one's perceptions, and to open up a whole vista of new thoughts and ideas. It is to take a plunge two thousand years back in the history of the world ; to be reborn in Old Testament days ; to see our ancestors, as it were, living before us in the flesh. The country, too, is looking its best just now. The prayers of the natives have been answered, and a grateful rain has succeeded to a long and disastrous drought. Inanimate Nature is radiant, but the scarcity of animal life is somewhat depressing. A few grey vultures of solemn aspect sit by the roadside, seemingly taking deep thought concerning their mid- day meal, and wondering where on earth they will get it. Some miserable draggled peewits there are, too, who have strayed further south than is their wont. " In the spring the wanton lapwing gets himself another crest," according to the poet. That is just what these birds don't do, and they certainly look anything but 32 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. wanton. I love plovers' eggs, so Gerald and I go out hunting for them, but without success. If this were England the birds would be feverishly occupied in laying beautiful eggs at fourpence apiece, but there is no market for such things out here, so I suppose they don't think it worth while. The third day we crossed a range of hills of moderate height, and had our first view of the gleam- ing snows of the giant Atlas range, and Marocco city, with its groves of palm trees, its minarets and spires, lying, as it were, at our feet. Below us a mighty plain stretched away for hundreds of miles in one unbroken level, bounded on the south by the Atlas. A magnificent and, as far as my experience goes, a unique panorama. Our caravan descends the barren, treeless mountain side by an execrable path, and defiles across the plain. We pass the night in a tiny duar, the sheikh whereof looks askance at the dogs of kafirs, or unbelievers, who ask for his hospitality, and at first he seems disinclined to take us in. Greed of gain, however, triumphs, as it generally does, over sectarian animosity ; and, as there are said to be bands of marauding Arabs of the Rhammena tribe infesting the district, the tents are pitched in the middle of the village, instead of outside, as we should have preferred. We turn in early, but sleep is made impossible owing to the odours and the noises — the bleating of sheep and lowing of cattle, and the melody of wakeful jackasses, themselves disturbed by the watch-dogs baying at imaginary foes. The afternoon of the next day sees us approaching the crumbling walls, with their square towers and bogus battlements, which encircle the southern THE CITY OF MAROCCO. 33 capital. What are those grisly objects nailed to that whitewashed bit of wall, with the dark spots below them ? " Good heavens ! " cried Urquhart, " look at those heads on the wall over there." Heads they were — human ones too — and no mis- take about it ; two rows of at least a dozen each, and the blood dripping down had congealed in black stains on the plaster. " Sidna, our Lord the Sultan (may Allah prolong his life)," the Moors inform us, had been engaged in the congenial occupation of " eating up " a refractory tribe who showed a dis- position to keep the tribute they owed his Majesty in their own pockets, and these ghastly relicts of humanity had a short time before stood on the shoulders of the leaders of the revolt. Shocking as such sights must be to every humane person, it is strange how soon in the East one becomes ac- climatized to horrors of every kind. Things which in Europe would cause a shudder to run through you out here attract little more than passing notice. We had letters of introduction to the Bascha of the city, and were graciously received by that functionary. With many complimentary tropes and figures of speech, he assured us how welcome we were, and of the tremendous regard he had for us. All the same, in his heart of hearts didn't he just wish us at the bottom of the sea ! They lay the butter on a little too thick for our English tastes; but then, we are such a very plain-spoken people. The Bascha at the time of our visit was a mulatto with more black than white blood in his veins. He had started life as a slave, and had earned a living by cleaning out the D 34 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. refuse from Moors' houses and by other menial employments, till by a turn of fortune's wheel he had managed to ingratiate himself in the Sultan's eyes and had been raised to his present position. His ambition was, however, not yet sated, and he now aspired to the Grand Viziership, which office it was said he had an excellent chance of obtaining. His qualifications for the post were undeniable, as he was a fanatical, pig-headed, and entirely bigoted despot. A pretty specimen of fortune's favouritism truly ! Yet such it seems to me is life, not only in the East, but pretty much all the world over. Power and place, success of every description, often fall to the lot of the least worthy, and Dame Fortune awards her prizes without regard to the merits of the recipient. The unintelligent " accident of an accident " is born to wealth and good things, while men of talent struggle on unheeded and unrewarded. The more one thinks about it the more one is impressed by the part which sheer luck plays in all affairs of life. For my own part, I believe the Mohammedan theory of predestination is onh' a doctrinal method of expressing this fact. Some one has wittily observed that life in general is a " speculation for the rise." "^ kitv cipKTriveiv is our motto, in the sense that we are most of us trying to better ourselves. And the factors of success are the same in this speculation as in all others. Judgment, nerve, intelligence, knowledge, and other qualities, go for something, but luck is in every case the main arbiter of our destinies. Take the case of the professions. Genius, I admit, will probably force its way to the front, but for the ordinary run of fairly instructed humanity (and the THE CITY OF MAROCCO. 35 bulk of US are now educated up to an even, if tolerably high, standard of mediocrity) luck, and trivial, or even contemptible, qualities usually deter- mine the issue. An engaging smile and a talent for tittle-tattle may do more for a medical man than the profoundest knowledge of the healing art. As a barrister friend of mine once remarked, " the disheart- ening thing about the Bar is, not so much the number of good men who fail to get on, as the unutterable duffers who do." And so it is in nearly every walk of life. You may think, gentle reader, that it is some cynic soured by misfortune who addresses you in this fashion, but it is not so. The world has treated me not unkindly, and I find it very pleasant on the whole. Fortune has reserved her heaviest blows for other, and perhaps worthier, shoulders than mine. Though not rich, I have sufficient for my wants, good health, friends who are more than kind ; and what can reasonable mortal wish for more in this vale of tears ? Yet it does seem to me that to the man who has brains to think, eyes to see, and a heart to feel, the mass of hopeless and undeserved suffering in the world, and the still more undeserved good fortune, cannot but suggest saddening reflections. In another sphere of existence, let us hope, the balance will be struck and each man's account made even. Mean- while we must be content to do our best, to work and wait, and leave to Providence the issue. But to resume. The practical result of our inter- view with the Bascha was the placing at our disposal a very tolerable house with a good-sized garden. As soon as we had settled down comfortably in our new quarters we set out on what had been the main 36 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. object of our journey hither, to find AH Abd el Ressool. Urquhart had been in correspondence with the Persian on the subject of our expedition for some time prior to our departure from England, so that our arrival did not take him altogether by surprise. After diligent search, we found the old man in a small house down one of the tortuous alleys which pass for streets in Moorish towns. Passing through the narrow door, we found ourselves in a tesselated court surrounded with a portico, and having a tiny fountain playing in the centre. Our arrival was made known to the master of the house by a buxom Jewish maid- of-all-work, and in a few minutes there appeared a tall well-built man with an iron-grey beard, who proved to be Ali. I spoke of him just now as an old man, but from his looks he should be little more than fifty. He wore the ordinary dress of the country — jellahia, or burnoos, yellow leathern slippers, fez, and turban ; but a glance at his intelligent face, with its chiselled features and transparent olive complexion, told you he was not of Moorish extraction. He received Urquhart with transports, but his method of greeting Gerald and myself, though not uncourteous, was, to say the least of it, peculiar. He commenced by shaking hands, making a semi-circular sweep with his arm pretty much in the idiotic style now in vogue among fashionable ladies (why is it that one always has to do or to wear something idiotic in order to be in the fashion ?) which suggests a dislocated shoulder or malformation of the elbow joint. Only, instead of grasping my hand by the palm, as any ordinary mortal would, he seized my thumb, and, waggling it violently for some seconds, inquired in tolerable THE CITY OF MAROCCO. 37 English if my brains were in good order, and trusted that I was feeling tolerably sane. Being new to this latter form of salutation, I at first felt inclined to resent it, not knowing that it is a common Persian form of speech. Old All's conversation was, indeed, generally a curiosity, being an odd mixture of Persian and Maroquin figures of speech, interlarded now and again with fragments of colloquial English. Urquhart and he soon fell to talking together, so Gerald and I left them and mounted to the flat roof of the house (a most improper proceeding out here, as it gives you a view of your neighbour's harems) and had a look round. It was getting on towards seven o'clock, and the fiery orb of the sun was just burying itself in the distant plain, suffusing the sky with a flood of red, green, and gold light. Then, as the tide of crimson glory ebbed in the western heavens, a rosy flush overspread the Atlas snows. The great red mosque tower of the Kutubia glowed like some mighty obelisk of flame as the solemn viagrcb, the evening inueddin, or call to prayer, pealed forth from the belfry. A truly impressive scene. We gazed on it awhile in silence, neither of us caring to talk, and then as the evening shades sprang rapidly up the leaden eastern sky we went down into the house. There we found the other two still engaged in conversation, and making plans for our expedition into the interior. Urquhart had little difficulty in persuading Ali to accompany us. Indeed, I believe the old man would have been ready to go anywhere or to do anything that his benefactor asked him, such were the depths of his gratitude and affection. He said he had been debating the matter in his mind for some time past. 38 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. and went so far as to assert that he had received communications from two of his occult masters who were now in Mount Atlas, namely, those very eminent Thibetan Mahatmas, Messrs. Singmya Songo and Kikkuppa Row, who had expressed themselves as being much in favour of his making the journey. In fact, he believed those gentlemen had been actually present in their lingas shariras, or astral bodies, in the city of Marocco during the past week, but they had whisked themselves in the twinkling of an eye over the summits of the Atlas range before he could even get a sight of them. I should mention here that the first named of these Mahatmas, Mr. Singmya Songo, was none other than the Arhat alluded to by Urquhart as having been All's gooroo, or instructor in esoteric science, in India. The details of our journey and the outline of the route we were to take were mainly left to Ali. Con- cerning the latter, he continued to profess to have received information from occult sources, but Gerald and I were naturally sceptical on the point, and thought that if he knew anything about it (which we rather doubted) he had learned it from the natives. On our asking him if he thought we should ever arrive at Mount Atlas, " Inshallah," he replied with a shrug, " please God. Shkoon araf, who knows ? May your footsteps be fortunate and may your end be happy. Who can forecast the lot of man or say what a day may bring forth ? Behold ! our comings and our groings are written in the book of Fate. The issue is with Allah, and on His'will all things depend, for there is no power or strength except in God." The reader may imagine that neither of us believed THE CITY OF MAROCCO. 39 in the existence of Mount Atlas or its mystic in- habitants, though Urquhart's faith in both remained unshaken. We recognized the fact that we were starting on a dangerous expedition involving great toil and danger, and if any one had asked us what induced us to go it would have been difficult to give a satisfactory answer. Primarily, Gerald went because Urquhart was bent on going, and I went — well, because both of them were going. Add to this an inborn love of adventure, and vague ideas of big game shooting in the heart of the Dark Continent, and you have the sum total of the motives that influenced us. At the same time, on calmly thinking the matter over, after the Hghthearted consent I had given in Urquhart's club, I could not help having grave misgivings as to the result. I knew that we should have to cross the Atlas range by passes eleven or twelve thousand feet high, whereon civilized men had never yet set foot, through tribes of wild and dangerous Schlohs ; that in the oasis of the Draa and in Southern Marocco we should encounter a popula- tion among the most bloodthirsty and fanatical in Africa ; and that the journey across the Great Desert, if we ever reached its borders alive, by a way far removed from the ordinary caravan routes to the interior, would be environed by the greatest peril. And all this to gratify a fantastic idea of Urquhart's, which probably had not the slightest basis in fact. However, in for a penny in for a pound ; I had put my hand to the plough and must not now draw back. It was ten o'clock before we left Ali's house and began to thread our way back to our own quarters. How strange and weird are our surroundings ! Beneath 40 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. the sable canopy of night the great city sleeps — sleeps, too, with a stillness that strikes with wonder us Europeans accustomed to the never-ceasing hum and roar of London streets. We have brought a lantern with us, and it is well that we have done so. The moon is not yet risen, and the faint starlight scarcely penetrates these narrow alleys where the eaves of the tumble-down houses almost meet overhead, leaving only a thin line of steel-blue sky visible between. We grope our way slowly along, stumbling over the cobble- stones and refuse heaps that choke the streets ; down main thoroughfares which sometimes attain the majestic width of ten or twelve feet ; through quaint gateways and wynds where three men could scarcely walk abreast, till at length we find ourselves in the great square of the city. Here it is barely three minutes' walk to our house, so we pause awhile to await the rising of the moon. It is growing less dark every moment, and she cannot delay us long. And now the stars begin to flicker feebly in the augmenting light, and the snowy counterpane of Atlas gleams with a ghostly brilliancy, as, trailing behind her a gauzy robe of silvery vapour, the pale goddess climbs the heavens. How different from the scene a few hours ago ! In the daytime all is heat and dust and bustle, while dirt, misery, and decay are everywhere painfully apparent. Now not a living thing is to be seen. Merchants and stall-keepers are snoring in their beds ; the beggars, the halt, the lame, and the blind, have betaken themselves Heaven knows where, and their places are filled by long phantom-like shadows. Not a sound is to be heard save the breeze whispering THE CITY OF MAROCCO. i,\ through the feathery palm-tops. The pale witchery of night casts a mysterious glamour over everything, causing these tumbledown buildings of tabbia to appear like ruined castles. Even yon Alpine heights, whose snows at noontime seem to shine so strangely in the blaze of the African sun, now appear quite natural and appropriate in the cold shimmer of the moonbeams. It is a scene to dream of and to linger over ; and as we silently watch the light fleecy clouds drifting lazily, like opalescent snowflakes along the glistening sides of the mountains, our thoughts are transported by its weird beauty to other worlds, and fancy runs riot even in the prosaic brain of Gerald Somervell. Suddenly our reveries are disturbed by the shrill tones of a rhectah (pipe) and its inevitable accom- paniment, the tom-tom. What midnight orgie thus breaks so rudely on our ears ? Only a i&w rioters keeping late carouse after the wedding of a relation. They do not keep it up for long, but the spell is broken, and as we wend our way homewards all is once more calm and still as in a city of the dead. 42 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. CHAPTER IV. ACROSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. Circumstances compelled us to make a long stay in Marakesh, the last fortnight of which was spent in the purchasing of tents and animals, the hiring of servants, and in otherwise preparing for our departure. Urquhart's thorough knowledge of Arabic was of great use to us at this time. For myself, I already possessed a smattering of the language, and after a few months' practice could talk it pretty fluently, while Gerald showed a surprising facility in picking it up. Our destination was kept a profound secret even from the servants. Had they known where we were going they would never have entered our employ, and Ali assured us that if the matter came to the ears of the Moorish authorities they would dispatch a troop of cavalry after us and bring us back before even we reached the foot of the mountains. The Sultan of Marocco has a rooted aversion to strangers travelling about his " happy dominions " otherwise than along certain beaten tracks. Accordingly, as soon as our preparations were completed, we sallied forth by the ACIiOSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 43 Bab el Debagh, or eastern gate of the city, and took the road which leads through the beautiful palm forests, as if en route for the coast. We passed the night in the village of Tamilelt, not far from the foot of the Atlas, and leaving it early next morning, we struck off in a south-easterly direction straight towards the mountains. And now our difficulties began. Our servants on learning whither we were bound began to mutiny, raising a tremendous hubbub and crying out that we should all be murdered. For awhile threats, bribes, and entreaties were alike of no avail, so that in the end we had to discharge the greater number of them. Fortunately we managed to retain one of the best, a muleteer named Almarakshi, a big strapping mulatto, who did a power of work and was very willing. Our cook also consented to remain with us, a worthy but very corpulent native of Marakesh, and a master of his art. Needless to say that his name was Mohammed. To distinguish him from his numerous namesakes we called him " Staferallah Mohammed " (Allah-forgive-me Mohammed), because of his frequent use of that expression. Moorish speech is always interlarded with pious ejaculations, such as " Bismillah," " Hamdoollah," etc., pitchforked in without any relevance or connection to the subject- matter of the conversation, like our English "you know" and "don't you know;" and "Staferallah" was Mohammed's favourite phrase. Two or three of the smartest of the muleteers were also induced by offers of increased pay not to desert. With these, and such additional hands as we hoped to be able to pick up on the way, we thought we should get on pretty well. As we expected to have 44 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. a lot of mountain work, we had sold our horses in the Soko, or, as the Scotch would say, " by public roup," in the city of Marocco, and had procured some fine big mules in their stead. Personally I detest mules, but they have this advantage, that, as the Moors say, they have no disease but what a stick will cure. None the less, they are most unpleasant beasts to ride. They have no shoulder to speak of, and their action is as irritating as their tempers are uncertain. We took up our quarters the next night in a Schloh village amid the foot-hills of the main chain. The inhabitants regarded us with great curiosity, but made no signs of open hostility. All this part of Marocco is inhabited by wild and semi-independent tribes of Schlohs, who form one of the largest branches of the great Berber race. Driven from the plains by the early Arab invaders, they withdrew to these mountain fastnesses, where even now the troops of their nominal ruler, the Sultan, dare not follow them. Ali happened to be acquainted with the head man of the village, and through his good offices we secured the services of a native who for a moderate sum volunteered to guide us over the mountains. I cannot give you this individual's name, for the simple reason that, like so many of these jaw-breaking Arabic words, it is simply untranscribable. Suffice it to say that it commenced with a hiccough, the middle was an expectoration, and the termination a sneeze. He was a truculent-looking ruffian, sallow and lantern-jawed, with high cheek-bones like most of his race ; and his generally sinister aspect was further heightened by a most tremendous squint. ACROSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 45 He wore a dark jellabia, tricked out with parti- coloured fringes, yellow top boots, and a pair of voluminous breeches of dirty red cloth. On his head was a greasy tarboosJi, or fez cap, from under which descended oily, black, curly elf-locks. An armament of antique weapons completed his equipment — por- tentous pistols that would not go off, and would blow your hand off if they did ; a curved scimitar in a pink leathern sheath, ghastly-looking Sus knives stuck in his belt and slung by red cords over his shoulder. He was for ever boasting of his prowess in battle, having once, I believe, lain in ambush and shot an enemy in the back and then chopped the head and hands off the dead body. He also prided himself on his horsemanship, giving himself out as a sort of centaur, though Mohammed, who took a great dislike to him, had a different tale to tell. He assured us that his chief equestrian feat was performed on a certain memorable occasion in Marakesh, when, having been detected in some act of petty theft, he was mounted on an ass with his face to its tail, and, holding that appendage of the animal in his hand, was whacked through the streets for three hours by the citizens. Besides his other weapons he carried a matchlock of portentous length, so that Gerald, who was getting on very fast with his Arabic, nicknamed him " Beni M'cohhella," which, being interpreted, signifies the " Son of a Gun," and this appellation stuck to him to the day of his death. Talking of nicknames, the Arabs are past masters in the art of inventing them, and they were not long in spotting our individual peculiarities and labelling us accordingly. It was not likely that Gerald's 46 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. proboscis would escape their observant eyes, and he was promptly dubbed " Aboo Nokhra," or " The Father of the Nose." Urquhart, whose whiskers in their untrained luxuriance had almost attained the dignity of those appendages once known as " Piccadilly Weepers," went by the name of " The Father of Whiskers." My physiognomy not having any features worthy of a nickname I was styled plain Tajjer, or merchant, the title usually given in the interior to Christians who do not bear any official rank. Our bivouac was amid the most enchanting scenery. Before us a broad and fertile valley stretched away seemingly up into the heart of the mountains. A small stream, its banks clothed in with oleanders in full bloom, flowed down through meadows of a brilliant green such as is never to be found in the plains. About the hillsides occasional houses and villages lay embosomed in groves of olive, fig, and orange trees, and tiny corn-fields dotted about made a singular patchwork of gold and green landscape. Our progress at first, after leaving the village, was easy and tolerably rapid. Higher up, the valley narrowed to a gorge, with precipitous sides fringed with forests of lentisk and evergreen oak. The mountains on either hand grew steeper and loftier, and the road — well, there wasn't much road. The Son of a Gun led the way on foot, chattering of his deeds of valour and the foes he had slain, hopping over the boulders and other obstacles in the path with marvellous agility. Urquhart came next, with Ali close at his heels on a big brindled bgJmll, or he- mule (pray do not try and pronounce this word, fair reader, or you will dislocate your pretty jaw), with ACROSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 47 Stripes like a hyaena. Then followed Gerald and myself and the pack-mules and the Moors of our train. For the first two days we had met with nothing but civility from the natives, who, while they naturally regarded our advent with much wonder, abstained from all hostile action ; but further on we heard rumours of marauding tribes inhabiting the southern slopes of the Atlas, who lay in ambush for and plundered passing caravans. In particular, a certain tribe, rejoicing in the name of the Beniboogoozgoo, seemed to be notorious for their cruelty and ferocity, and they were now, we were informed, on the war- path. Some merchants from the Draa oasis, journey- ing northwards, had been waylaid and murdered by these ruffians not many days previously. The danger not being near or immediate, Beni M'cohhela assumed a lofty air of protection towards all the rest of the party, assuring us that we had no need to fear as long as he was with us. To poor old Ali especially, who was visibly getting very nervous and uncomfortable,hewas beyond measure patronizing, taking him under his wing in a manner that was excessively galling to that sensitive old gentleman. " Verily, O Ali," he cried, " there is no need for fear. Blessings on your beard, you old ass, am I not with you .'' Oollah ! by Allah, ere now this right arm hath put a score of stout warriors to flight ; and if those sons of unmentionable mothers, the Beniboo- goozgoo (may their fathers' graves be eternally defiled), dare to attack the Oolad Ingleez (sons of the English), woe betide them." " Loor kebar ! God is great," rejoined the Persian ; " what dirt is this we are eating ? My trust is in 48 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. Allah ; but I should indeed be afraid if we had to rely on you and your rusty old blunderbuss for protection. Do you laugh at our beards ? " " Ya lateef ! Merciful Allah," exclaimed the Son of a Gun, executing a sort of war-dance, and spinning his gun round and catching it after the fashion of the jugglers at Moorish fairs. " Ya lateef! Do you question my valour? Have I not eaten of the lion's heart ? " ^ " Staferallah ! if he only fights as well as he talks, we can all lay down our arms and look on," remarked Mohammed in his most sarcastic tones ; and he went on to suggest that our guide had probably eaten less of the lion's heart than of the ras ed diibbaJi^ or hyaina's brain, and that, however much he might be the Son of a Gun, he was, at any rate, the father of all asses. There was no love lost between these two, and they were perpetually squabbling in this fashion. " Of a verity, O Father of Whiskers," said Mo- hammed to Urquhart, " there will be no peace in the goffla (caravan) so long as this kilb ibn kilb (dog and son of a dog) remains with us. Lai sti shimlek, may God scatter your relations," he continued, apostro- phizing Beni M'cohhela ; " the wind has got into your brain, you jackanapes. Inshallah ! Please Allah, I will yet live to defile your grave, or my name is not Mohammed." The Son of a Gun was too much pumped with his antics and chatter, and the increasing steepness of * According to Moorish belief a person who has eaten of the heart of a lion, becomes endowed with great bravery in battle. - To say that a person has tasted the hyaena's brain is equivalent to calling him a fool, the hyaena being considered the stupidest of beasts. ACROSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 49 the road, to make a suitable reply to the sallies of our cook, so he relapsed into silence. For awhile nothing broke the stillness of the mountain air except the roar of the torrent, the " click-click " of our mules' hoofs against the stones, and the occasional, " Arrah, arrah ny mek " ("Go on ; go along to your mother "), of a muleteer to his lagging beast. Our route led up the left or western side of the stream, which foamed and brawled on its impetuous course several hundred feet below. The path in places lay along the edge of an almost sheer cliff, and of course our mules, in their usual pig-headed fashion, insisted on walking as close to the brink as possible. It is never any sort of use remonstrating with the brutes. You must try and fancy yourself far safer with one foot dangling over the abyss, and remember that the maxim, " Medio tutissimus ibis," was not meant to apply to jackasses. I shall not attempt to describe in detail our journey over this magnificent chain of mountains, though I could say a good deal about it. We journeyed by easy stages for two or three days, resting one Sunday in a small grass-plot by the edge of the stream. The track grew worse as we advanced higher up the valley. In places it had been swept entirely away by avalanches, and it was necessary for us to cut it afresh out of steep slopes of slippery shale. Deep rifts and gorges, too, cleft by rushing torrents, with fantastically shaped rocks about their sides, con- tinually impeded our progress. The valley grew narrower and narrower, and the mountains on either side higher and more rugged, till at last we were forced to quit the line of the stream, and climbed up E 50 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. a small zig-zag path to the right. In a few hours we reached a sort of plateau, which, like a Swiss Alp, lay- along the summit of the lower precipitous face of the mountain. My aneroid here gave the height as 9500 feet. We followed this plateau for a consider- able distance. The slope was very moderate, and the going altogether much better. At this elevation patches of snow began to show themselves, and the white slope, which stretched above us in billowy undulations to the summit of the range, caused me some misgivings as to our being able to get the beasts over. However, as so often happens in worldly affairs, our difficulties were greater in the prospect than in the reality, and a laborious trudge of a few hours at length brought us to the summit of the pass. A glorious view here burst upon us. Northwards the city of Marocco lay, as it were, at our feet, though in reality many miles distant, its red towers and spires and battlements being plainly visible. Westwards the great plain stretched away to where, in the far distance, we fancied we could discern the blue Atlantic. Several miniature rivers, including the Wad Tensift and the Wad N'fys, glinted like silvery threads in the sunlight. Near us were no Alpine cliffs or jagged peaks, only huge, white, rounded mountain masses, about whose sides fleecy clouds floated like pieces of cotton wool. On the southern slopes the mists were gathered more thickly. Now and again, as they dispersed, glimpses were afforded us of the fertile valley of the Sus, down which the river flowed in serpentine windings. Beyond the valley, to the south-east, the blue outlines of the Anti- ACROSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 51 Atlas peaks were plainly visible whenever the curtain of vapour parted asunder, and far to the south the desert floated in a yellow haze. We did not stay long on the summit, as, although the sun was shining brightly, a keen wind blowing from the east made the Moors' teeth chatter and their bodies shiver with cold. Not far below the top of the pass we met some ragged-looking natives, toiling painfully up the steep incline. After burning our grandparents sotto voce in orthodox fashion, and expressing a pious hope that all N'sara, or Nazarenes, might frizzle in Jehannum, they bestowed a salaam alikuin, or " peace be with you," on the Son of a Gun, and informed us that they had travelled all the way from Tafilet on foot, and were now bound for Marocco City. They pointed us out our route, concerning which the Son of a Gun evidently had not the foggiest notion, and gave us some useful information concerning the movements of the Beniboogoozgoo. They said we might expect to encounter that truculent tribe at some place not far from the foot of the mountains. They had themselves been apprehensive of an attack, and attributed their escape solely to their poverty-stricken appearance. A caravan like our own, however, which consisted' partly of Chris- tians, could hardly hope for similar good fortune, as in our case the motive of plunder would be supple- mented by that of religious fanaticism. After bestowing some small backsheesh on our new friends, which they pocketed without any outward sign of gratitude, whatever their innermost feelings may have been, we resumed our downward journey. There was little that was remarkable in the way of SSt' THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. scenery ; but we noticed a decided change for the warmer in the temperature, and the vegetation climbed at least a thousand feet higher up the moun- tain side. We selected an open spot for our encamp- ment that evening in order to be more secure against surprises, and we had a watch set all night. The Son of a Gun redoubled his maledictions against those sons of Sheitan, the Beniboogoozgoo, whose fathers he hoped to burn, and for whose reception he was persuaded the fires of Jehannum were already kindled ; but his boastings of his personal prowess had grown much fainter of late. On the march next day he resigned his position in the van on the plea of a sore foot, and located himself in the centre of the caravan alongside of Mohammed. We had not gone far when shrill voices raised in anger told us that fresh ructions had broken out between the two. " Lai harak abook, may God burn your father ! " screamed Mohammed, in a passion, and a volley of other imprecations followed. It appeared that the Son of a Gun was carrying his matchlock on his shoulder and the muzzle had caught our cook a pretty hard knock on the head, which gave him an opportunity of picking a quarrel with his enemy. But the approach of danger had made Beni M'cohhela humble and submissive. "Aywa, rajjel " ("Well, man"), he rejoined in that curious, sing-song, deprecatory tone affected by the Moors, " do not be angry. Bismillah ! in the name of Allah, it was but an accident." " Staferallah ! I'll 'accident' you, you greasy son of Jehannum ! Don't you dare to come near me, or I'll pull your beard ! May your sister have an old ACROSS THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. 53 jackass for a sweetheart, and may the dogs defile your father's grave ! " This last affront was more than the Son of a Gun could endure. He did not mind personal insults ; he could even put up with imputations on the moral character of his living female relations, but the tombs of his ancestors were sacred. Abandoning his submissive attitude, he broke out in wrath — " Lai sti shimlek ; ma andish book ! May God scatter your relations, you man without a father ! " he cried. " Where was your mother married, you tun- bellied old father of a cooking-pot ? Don't speak to me like that, or I'll put a bullet through you ; " and he raised his matchlock threateningly. " Holy Prophet ! but I'll punch your head, you ill- conditioned dog's son ! " howled Mohammed, making a dive for his antagonist, whom he grabbed by his long greasy love-locks, tearing them out by handfuls. The pair rolled over on the ground, and it was with difficulty that they could be separated. We gave them both, especially Mohammed, a good rating for their unseemly behaviour at a crisis when it was beyond all things necessary that we should present a united front to our expected foes. 54 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. CHAPTER V. THE ROBBER ATTACK. As we neared the foothills, which here, as on the northern side, extended for some distance from the base of the main chain, the road entered a narrow defile, through which a stream, fed by the melting of the mountain snows, flowed down into the Sus valley. It was necessary to keep a sharp look-out here, as the locality was favourable for an ambush. We three Englishmen carried double-barrelled Express rifles, and, with our revolvers in our belts, we felt we ought to be a match for any reasonable number of the Beniboogoozgoo. Our servants all carried swords, and some of them were armed in addition with matchlocks and Moorish pistols. Gerald offered AH one of our spare revolvers ; but the poor old fellow, who was trembling all over like an aspen leaf, would not take it. " May I be your sacrifice, O Father of the Nose ! " he cried. " Allow me to explain, for the good of your service, that I am a man of peace, not of war. Staferallah ! may God forgive me, but fear hath already gat hold of my loins. My knees are loosened ; THE ROBBER ATTACK'. 55 my liver is become water ; my bowels are much moved ; and my heart is as wax. Wherefore, by your favour, if an enemy should attack us (which may Allah in His mercy avert), I will extinguish the fires of audacity with the waters of prudence, and conceal my person beneath the veil of obscurity ; " by which figure of speech I imagine he intended to convey that he would hide in a ditch till the fight was over. " In that case," rejoined the heartless Gerald, " I shall feel constrained to prick the flanks of timidity with the goad of coercion ; or, to vary the metaphor slightly, to plant the boot of contumely upon the rump of pusillanimity. Come, take the pistol, you old funk." " God be gracious to my brother ! " cried the Persian in great distress ; "ashes are fallen upon my head, and I devour much grief. My trust is in Allah, but I fear lest our faces be made black in the sight of our enemies " (poor old All's was white enough in all conscience), " and we be covered with a mantle of shame." " It's not a bit of good, Gerald," said Urquhart ; " he would never hit anything if he had the pistol, unless it was a mule or one of ourselves." Thus admonished, Gerald left our faint-hearted retainer to his own devices. It was just past midday, and the sun was beating fiercely down on our heads. Not a breath stirred. We carefully scanned the ground in our neighbourhood, hut could see no sign of the enemy. The hillsides were rocky and covered with thick bush, and anything like effective scouting was out of the question. We were approaching a spot where a high rock rose almost perpendicularly 56 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. from the bed of the stream, and the road narrowed to a sort of ledge cut out of the face of the precipice, where mules with burdens could not pass. Accord- ingly, the caravan was halted, the animals were •unloaded, and the luggage carried past the obstacle on the backs of the Moors. We had all got safely by, and the last muleteer with his beast had regained the path which here turned sharply to the right. A halt was again called and the process of reloading the mules commenced. Suddenly a white puff of smoke issued from behind a rock thirty yards on our right ; there was a report, followed by the scream of a bullet and a dull thud. One of the finest of the mules, which carried our sleeping tent, staggered and rolled over the precipice with his burden. In a moment all was dire confusion. The Moors screamed and jabbered and swore. The muleteers in the rear whacked their beasts to make them go on, while those in front backed into those behind. Two or three of the more vicious mules started kicking, and everything in a few moments got hopelessly mixed. The first discharge was followed by six or eight dropping shots, which, however, did little damage. Simultaneously there swarmed out of the bush a band of Berbers, tall, lithe, active-looking fellows, with comparatively light hair and complexions. They wore short dark-coloured y>//«Z'/^i' and red gun-covers twisted as turbans round their heads, and long plaited scalplocks falling down over their shoulders. At the second discharge the Son of a Gun, calling out, "Allah! Allah! the Beniboogoozgoo are upon us!" flung aside his matchlock and fled precipitately up the path. IMohammed, who had drawn his sword, THE ROBBER ATTACK. 57 made a furious cut at him as he passed ; but, making a bad shot, he only chopped off a mule's tail, and the Son of a Gun continued his way unhurt. Not for long, however. As he neared the precipitous rock the tall form of a Beniboogoozgoo warrior rose from behind a stone and covered him with his matchlock. The unhappy man, seeing his retreat cut off, turned, screaming with terror, and endeavoured to rejoin the caravan. But it was too late. A well-directed shot sent a bullet crashing through his spine, and with a cry of agony he fell prone to the earth. Meanwhile Urquhart, Gerald, and myself had plunged into the bush, and, taking advantage of the cover offered by a small watercourse, whose sides were overgrown with ferns and flowering shrubs, we advanced to the attack. We were not long in picking off three or four of the Beniboogoozgoo, who, fancying that they had met with an easy prey, were rushing to the loot of the caravan. An ill-aimed volley in reply emptied the matchlocks of the remainder of our assailants ; so, laying aside our rifles, we rushed upon them with revolver in hand. Our foes evidently did not understand what six-shooters were ; but, drawing their swords, they prepared to make short work of the presumptuous and, as they thought, unarmed infidels. Their boldness, however, gave way to panic when a hailstorm of bullets rained upon them, dropping five or six of their number in less than half as many minutes. The survivors took to their heels and bolted into the bush. Gerald, who had emptied his revolver, snatched a sword from the hand of one of the dead robbers and started in pursuit of a big, strapping Beniboogoozgoo, who, from his bearing and 58 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. commanding presence, seemed to be the leader of the gang. Urquhart and myself returned to the mules. A pitched battle was being waged around them with sabre and knife between several of the enemy and our servants. The latter were outnumbered in the proportion of at least three to two ; but they were, nevertheless, defending themselves valiantly. In the midst of the melee I could see the portly form of Mohammed hacking and hewing away with a ven- geance, but, as far as we could see, doing surprisingly little execution for such a large expenditure of labour and breath. In fact, the hitting was altogether too wild, and the scrimmage too confused, for much serious damage to be done. A few shots from our revolvers made matters more even, and the attacking force, seeing reinforcements arriving on the scene of action, scampered off like rabbits into the thicket. Two or three of our Moors had received more or less severe sword-cuts, but none of them were of a par- ticularly serious nature. Almarakshi, who, by the way, had shown great pluck throughout, had sus- tained the worst injuries, and he required a good deal of bandaging in the evening. This over, and the enemy being now routed at all points, Urquhart and I went back into the bush in search of Gerald. I felt anxious lest his impetuosity should lead him into a trap, and he should be over- powered by numbers. Hearing a clatter of falling stones above us, we looked up in the direction whence the sound come, and saw the Berber bounding up the hillside like a deer, with Gerald pressing hotly in his rear. Gerald was a good stayer, and had won his THE ROBBER ATTACK. 59 college mile race at Cambridge ; but the native, lithe and active as a cat, was having the best of him in the race, till he suddenly found his upward progress barred by a band of perpendicular rock which ran for a considerable distance along the mountain-side. Here he paused a moment, uncertain whether to turn to the right or left, and Gerald lessened the gap between them by several yards. Seeing little hope of escape in flight, the African turned to bay, and, springing from his vantage ground on his pursuer, aimed a furious stroke at Gerald's head. The latter seemed to be taken by surprise, but raised his sword to parry the blow. Whether it was that Gerald was pumped by his long run, or merely that the force of the blow broke down his guard, I cannot say, but we were horrified to see his pith helmet fly from his head, and from the way he staggered it was plain he was wounded. Happily, he managed to recover himself sufficiently before his antagonist could repeat the blow, and, hitting out wildly, he wounded the Berber on the shoulder. With a howl of pain and rage, the latter sprang upon him like a wild beast ; but Gerald evaded his onset, and, getting on even terms with his assailant, the two went at it hammer and tongs, blow following blow with astonishing rapidity. Meanwhile Urquhart and myself were straining every nerve to get to Gerald's assistance ; but the fight was over before we came up. Blood was flowing freely from both combatants. Gerald had received an ugly gash on the left side of his head, from which a red stream trickled down his checks. The Berber, too, was evidently weakened by his wound, and 6o THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. began to show signs of tiring. Gerald saw his advantage, and, pressing hotly on the enemy, delivered a succession of blows, which were but feebly returned. One final stroke ended the fight, and the Berber, letting his weapon drop from his nerveless hand, fell flat on the earth, with his head cleft almost in two. "Well done, old chap ! " cried Urquhart, coming up just as it was all over ; " that last knock was a splendid one. Hullo ! hold up, though," he ex- claimed, as Gerald, turning ashy pale, reeled and would have fallen had we not supported him. We carried him down to the caravan and tried to bring him back to consciousness by rubbing his temples and dashing water in his face. Some time elapsed, however, before our efforts were successful, and we began to grow alarmed lest he should be more seriously injured than we had supposed. I think it must have been nearly a quarter of an hour before a faint flush returned to his cheeks and his eyes opened and he tried to sit up. " Where am I ? what has happened ? " were his first questions. " Never mind, old fellow," said Urquhart, " lie still. You've had a nasty knock, but you will soon be all right. By the way," he continued, turning to me, "what has become of old AH } I hope he hasn't got knocked on the head. We can't get along without him." At this moment we heard loud cries of " Allah ! Allah ! " and other exclamations of woe accompanied by appeals for help. Looking in the direction of the sounds I saw the turbaned form of Mohammed de- scending the hillside, and a little lower down a white THE ROBBER ATTACK. 6 1 figure lying huddled up under a big stone. This last proved to be Ali, who in the extremity of his fear imagined Mohammed to be one of the Beniboo- goozgoo who had discovered his hiding-place and was coming to kill him. Thinking he might have been wounded, I left Gerald in charge of Urquhart and went down to see what was the matter. It appeared that Ali, following the example of the Son of a Gun, had taken to his heels at the first appearance of the enemy, but, more fortunate than that luckless son of Araby, he had managed to gain the friendly shelter of a rock. From this coign of vantage he had witnessed the fight between Gerald and the Beniboo- goozgoo, though a hillock had prevented his seeing the rout of the main body of the enemy. "La bas, Hamdoollah! Hamdoollah la bas! Praise be to Allah, you have escaped injury. Allah is the only conqueror ; but the Father of the Nose is a very hon in the fight. How he vanquished that big son of Sheitan, the chief of the Beniboogoozgoo ! With my eyes I saw it." "Well, you wouldn't be likely to have seen it with your ears, eh, stupid ! " I remarked. " Oollah ! his bowels are immovable ; he has eaten of the lion's heart. As he pursued the enemy up the hill curiosity overcame timidity, and, stretch- ing my head above the stone, with these eyes I beheld his prowess. But tell me, for the love of Allah, where is the Son of a Gun ? " " Dead," I replied ; " he fled at the first shock of battle, and met with the fate M'hich Allah in His justice sooner or later metes out to all cowards," I added severely. 62 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. "Holy Prophet! "he exclaimed, in no whit abashed; "dead? then is his soul even now in Jehannum." This last reflection seemed to afford him unspeak- able comfort, so that, having assured us that his brains were dried up (with astonishment), and having once more minutely described the state of his heart and liver and other internal organs, as he always did when under the influence of strong emotion, he was induced to get up and accompany us back to the caravan. ( 63 ) CHAPTER VI. THROUGH THE SUS VALLEY. The events of the day rendered a halt of a week absolutely necessary. After searching about some time for a suitable spot we pitched the camp in a grassy glen watered by a limpid stream. Gerald was not in a fit state to travel, and several of the Moors had wounds which required care and rest. Urquhart was a very fair amateur surgeon, and for a while he was fully occupied in plastering and bandag- ing the sufferers, who under his treatment made rapid progress towards recovery. The evening of the day of the fight was spent in burying the slain. We interred the unfortunate Son of a Gun at sundown in orthodox Mohammedan fashion. The corpse was placed in the grave in a sitting posture ; the face turned towards Mecca, ready to spring up at the sound of the last trumpet. The Moors combed and plaited the oily scalplocks by which, according to Moorish belief, Azrael, the Angel of Death, would haul him up into paradise ; and they chanted in unison the plaintive Moorish funeral dirge as they filled in the grave. 64 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. Urquhart and I spent a couple of days wandering over the mountains in search of aoudad, or wild mountain sheep, of which we were told a few were to be found in the more inaccessible places. Our first day was a blank ; but returning in the evening, we descried with the telescope a ram and his mate browsing on the patches of grass which grew at the foot of the precipices, and we arranged to go after them the following morning. Starting some hours before daybreak, we cautiously approached the place where the game had last been seen, and, hiding ourselves behind the rocks, we awaited the dawn. Gradually the silver moonbeams waned, and the stars paled before the conquering light of day. The eastern sky became of a pale saffron hue, flecked with streaks of pink ; while the west still retained the steely blue of night. As the light grew stronger and the golden sunbeams tipped the loftier peaks, and fell at length on the distant summits of Anti-Atlas, we took out our telescopes and carefully scanned the mountain-side. We had not long to look. Standing on a pinnacle of rock in sharp relief against the sky, with his forefeet gathered close together under him, was a splendid aoudad. There he stood, his massive horns curving gracefully backwards, and a white fringe of hair lining his throat and chest — a most dignified object — sniffing the morning breeze, and taking a look round before he began his breakfast. It was no use trying to stalk him while he remained up there ; we should have to wait until he came down. Presently, having thoroughly satisfied him- self that the coast was clear, he made a couple of tremendous bounds forward, and, landing easily THROUGH THE SUS VALLEY. 65 at the foot of the rock, he commenced to browse quietly. Now is our time. Having first ascertained the direction of the wind, we make a long detour higher up the mountain, so as to approach him from above. Some long slopes of shale and detritus render our progress very slow, as we must as far as possible avoid making any noise. A scramble down some nasty rocks brings us to a low band of cliff, below which we hope to find our game. Creeping quietly to the edge, we look over. Yes, he is still there, and not fifteen yards apart is his consort, whom we have not seen this morning, both of them browsing without suspicion of danger. Urquhart, being by far the better marksman, generously gives me the first shot. The animals are not more than a hundred yards off; but my hand is shaking like a leaf, and I feel sure that I shall miss. Those who know what " stag-fever " is will be able to sympathize with the feelings of a comparative tyro on the occasion of his first shot at big game. Bang ! The aoudad does not move, but stands still in the same spot. I must have missed him. Urqu- hart, however, who has more experience, knows better. He sees the beast straddle his legs apart — a ture sign that he is hit. Meanwhile the female makes oft* at full speed up the rocks. When about two hundred yards distant, she stops to look round for one moment after her mate. Urquhart, seizing his opportunity, lets drive a splendid shot, which takes effect behind the shoulder, and she tumbles head- long down a precipice nearly a hundred feet in height. F 66 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. I then fired the second barrel of my Express at the ram, and missed him clean ; but it made no difference, as, sinking slowly to the ground, he rolled over on his side dead. They were a splendid pair, and it was with difficulty that we managed to carry the ram down to the encampment, leaving the female for the Moors to fetch the next day. The following afternoon we continued our journey towards the Wad Sus. Our wounded had all made great progress, though Gerald complained occasionally of a severe pain in his head. As we got lower down, the country became more thickly, or perhaps I should say somewhat less sparsely, populated. The river Sus flowed through the broad smiling valley of the same name, enclosed on either side by lofty mountain ranges. Narrow lanes between high banks led us among gardens of acacia, fig, peach, and pomegranate trees, and the rose and honeysuckle bloomed in the hedges. The Sus was in flood, owing to the melting of the snows on the Atlas ; but we managed to cross without mishap, and made our way to a village close to the southern bank. The inhabitants were naturally much surprised to see Christians ; but they were very friendly, and the sheikh of the village was almost demonstrative in his greeting. "Salaam alikum, peace be with you. Mahhaba bik, you are welcome, O father of England," said he to Urquhart, touching the latter's hands and kissing his finger-tips, according to the graceful fashion of the Moors. He then assured us that we were his brothers, and that all that he possessed was ours. Arab hospitality is proverbial, and we very soon THROUGH THE SUS VALLEY. 67 mooted the question of provisions. A long consul- tation followed among the villagers, resulting in the son of the sheikh being sent off by his father. In a few minutes he returned, bringing with him a very elderly-looking, long-bearded he-goat, who was intro- duced with all the ceremony his great age and dignity demanded. His appearance elicited a universal grunt of approbation from our retainers, who saw in him the prospect of savoury meat at our expense. Ex- clamations of " OoUah ! " " Barikallah ! " etc., were raised, mingled with the customary asseverations of the unity and greatness of Allah and the apostolic mission of Mohammed, though what on earth these things had to do with the bringing in of an old billy- goat I don't know. And then they all fell to praising the goat. " Mashallah ! isn't he a beauty ? " said one. "By the beard of the Prophet," cried another, "it makes my mouth water to look at him ! Thanks be to Allah for His numerous mercies." " Loor kebar, God is great ! He will indeed make an excellent stew," remarked the third. It was evident that our entertainers thought it a good opportunity to dispose of some of their stock on favourable terms ; but we represented to our host that we could not on any account consent to rob him of such a venerable adjunct to his premises, especially as it would be impossible to do justice to him during our short stay. "Allah kreem, God is bountiful," said our host. " If you do not like him, in the name of the blessed Moulai Idrees, have we not others ? Ah-h Moham- med ! " and he called his son, who promptly obeyed 68 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. the paternal summons, and whispered a few words in his ear. The boy again went out with the goat, and returned shortly with a small kid, the son or more remote descendant, we presumed, of the reverend animal we had just seen. A bargain was struck, and, simply ex- claiming " Bismillah ! " a Moor cut the poor little creature's throat, and we supped heartily off " bifteks " of kid, and very good they were. Bidding adieu next morning to our courteous host, we continued our journey in a southerly direction. It is not my intention to describe the daily details of this part of our journey. Suffice it to say that after leaving the fertile, cultivated plains of the Sus valley, we entered a mountainous region of surpassing sterility and desolation. Here and there an occa- sional oasis, formed by the few and scanty streams which flowed down from the hills, broke the monotony of the scenery. We were now in the heart of the Anti-Atlas mountains, which we had hitherto sup- posed to be a chain running parallel to the main Atlas range, whereas, as a matter of fact, they constitute a hilly district of wide area. Now and again we passed over flat plains covered with a species of thorny scrub, and then once more found ourselves among the mountains. This part of the country appeared to be almost entirely uninhabited, and for days we never passed a soul upon the road, or saw a single human dwelling. One evening, however, while sitting in the tents, we were surprised by the arrival of a visitor. He was a strange-looking creature, very ragged and unkempt, and his personal luggage consisted of a THROUGH THE SUS VALLEY. 69 large leathern wallet which he carried on his back. He told us that he was a hakim, or physician, on his way to the Draa oasis, and he begged to be allowed to avail himself of the company and protection of our goffla, or caravan. Accordingly we had the pleasure of the fellow's society for the next two weeks, and he proved to be not unentertaining. In reality, he was an itinerant pedlar, a zveld el terek, or son of the road, as the Moors phrased it. He was, withal, a terrible rogue, a quack and charlatan who lived on his wits. He knew no more about medicine than my mule, but traded on the superstition and ignorance of the people, to whom he dispensed charms and amulets, charging them extortionate fees for his services. He had not been long with us before he tried to palm off some of the contents of his wallet on our servants. To Almarakshi, who suffered from indigestion, he sold pills which, if all he said was true, must have outrivalled Beecham's. To others of the Moors who came to be doctored, he gave talismans of various sorts — charms to v/ard off the evil eye, hyaena's brains, and white powders, which he said were pounded dead men's bones, and which, if administered to an enemy, would bring him evil fortune. He also had for sale owls' eyes, frogs' hearts, lizards' tails, and verses of the Koran on bits of paper to be worn round the neck. His speciality, however, was some pieces of rag, which he swore were frag- ments of the nether garments of the Prophet. These he retailed at the rate of two viitkal (about three shillings) apiece, saying that they were a sure preventive against dysentery. The result of it all was that Almarakshi came to us with a wry face one 70 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. morning, and said that that son of a burnt father, the hakim, had poisoned him. Personally, I did not believe that the pills contained any ingredient more injurious than camel-dung, which, indeed, formed the basis of most of the rascal's materia incdica ; but he was, nevertheless, summoned before us, and warned not to play any more of his tricks on us. •' Have a care, have a care, Mr. Hakim," said AH severely. " Eat your abominations yourself, or by the hairs of the Prophet's beard, and by your death, you shall finish your journey alone and with sore feet." This dark threat of the bastinado, which of course we had not the least idea of carrying out, had its effect upon the hakim, and he did not try to palm off upon us any more of his wares. During the re- mainder of the time he journeyed with us he became exceedingly communicative and gave us an account of his past experiences, which were somewhat amus- ing. He was strongly of opinion that life was a game of see-saw, and he certainly seemed to have had a full measure of its ups and downs. Sometimes, he said, he was well off; but prosperity made him careless, and he generally ended by being detected in some piece of roguery which resulted in his being flogged and his ill-gotten gains being taken from him. However, he never grew discouraged. His latest speculation had been in what he was pleased to call tobacco, a taste for which he had been endeavouring to instil among the natives of North Marocco. " Let's see some of your best smoking mixture," said Gerald, and the rogue pulled out of his wallet a vile compound, smelling abominably. It was a fine blend of camel-dung, dried leaves, and straw, and he doled THROUGH THE SUS VALLEY. 71 out this concoction to the natives at the rate of three mitkal the pound. "Allah!" he said, "I should have made a fine thing out of it had not the kaid (may the dogs defile his grave) found me out one day and, after giving me one hundred stripes, burned my whole stock." A {&V4 days afterwards he told us he was about to leave us. We asked him where he was going, and he replied, " May your kindness never be less. May Allah prolong your life, and may your end be happy. Whither I go, or what I shall do, I know not. Iftshallah ! God will show. One thing only I know, that as long as there are fools in the world and I have a moderate supply of camel-dung, I shall never want for a livelihood. There is but one God, and Mohammed is His Prophet." With these words the hakim took his leave. 72 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. CHAPTER VII. THE LION HUNT. Lying awake that evening in my camp-bed, I was meditating on these parting remarks of the hakim and his strange career. " As long as there are fools in the world ! " Verily, O hakim, thou needest have no fear on the score of the supply diminishing. And then, as I deplored the dark ignorance and superstition which made him find these poor Moors so easy a prey, I fell to debating in my own mind whether, after all, we civilized inhabitants of northern climes are very much wiser. Have we not, too, our sleek charlatans with their social, religious, or aesthetic crazes ; our seemingly cracked-brained, but in reality calculating eccentrics, and do not they prey upon society even as the hakim preyed upon the Moors ? Do not our spiritualists and magic-mongers trade upon the credulity of civilized mankind (and I take it that the superstitions of the West differ from those of the East in kind rather than degree) in precisely the same way as our hakim friend traded upon the ignorance of the Arabs ? Impudence it is, impudence, that wins the day all the THE LION HUNT. 12, world over, whether it be in a London drawing-room or in the wilds of Africa, and the man who has un- limited faith in himself and in the boundless gulli- bility of his fellow-men may achieve great things, whatever or wherever may be his sphere of action. The place where the hakim left us was at the commencement of an oasis near the outskirts of the Anti-Atlas. Crossing a range of barren rugged mountains by a pass called Onkh el Jimmel, or Camel's Neck, we came in sight of the oasis, which was formed by a streamlet that issued from a narrow cleft in the mountains. Small groves of palm-trees were dotted about here and there, presenting a most inviting appearance after the sterile regions we had passed through. The sides of the mountains, too, became less barren, being clothed in places with dense scrub, the bushes of which attained in places a height of several feet. The meadows were inter- sected by numerous water-conduits, and tiny patches of cultivation were scattered about among collections of mud huts, which could hardly be dignified with the title of villages. Our servants were fagged with the continuous long marches, and some of the pack-animals were begin- ning to develop sore backs, so we arranged to rest a few days in the oasis before continuing our journey southwards. Moreover, Gerald, whose wound had not yet completely healed, felt a return of the pains in his head, doubtless the result of over-exertion following upon a considerable loss of blood. Another induce- ment to remain lay in the fact that game was reported to abound in the neighbourhood. The natives assured us that there were halloof bezzuf (any 74 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. number of wild boar), and that the surrounding hills were infested with lions, who were the terror of the villagers and committed great depredations on their flocks. They had lately been so bold in their attacks that the cattle at night had to be enclosed in a pound, surrounded by a ditch and rampart surmounted by a formidable cheveux de frise of thornbushes, but the lions had actually leaped inside and killed some of the animals in the enclosure. Moreover, the boars destroyed their crops, and the Moors could do little or nothing to stop their inroads. Accordingly, a few days after our arrival we arranged a great hunt, to the delight of the natives, who, besides being the keenest of sportsmen, were only too pleased to have an opportunity of taking vengeance on their four- footed foes. " May God preserve you, Nazarenes," said an old white-haired sheikh. "We are well-nigh ruined by the inroads of the swine, and our hearts are faint with terror by reason of the lions." Urquhart told Ali to make inquiries as to the best way of going to work. " Ala rasi, on my head be it," said he, " to perform your bidding ; " and he set forth to interview some of the Arabs in the neighbourhood. On his return in the evening he told us that he had made the acquaintance of the sheikh of a neighbour- ing village, one Hadj Mohammed Abd el Kader, a gentleman, he assured us, of immovable bowels, an eater of the lion's heart, and possessing great ex- perience in the chase. Ali advised us to entrust this man with the principal arrangements for the hunt, which was to take place the next day but one. The following evening we left the oasis, and made THE LION HUNT. 75 our way up a narrow gorge to a small collection of mud huts, which was said to be the village of Hadj Mohammed. That worthy was at his prayers when we arrived, but was not long in putting in an appear- ance. After the customary greetings, and his usual inquiries after the state of the sheikh's brain, and trusting that the latter was feeling as sane as could be expected, considering the unseasonable weather, etc., etc., Ali introduced us. The sheikh received us with great cordiality, touching our hands and placing his own on his heart to show the depth of his good will towards us. He exclaimed that we were not only his brothers, but also his father and mother and all the rest of his relations, including, no doubt, as Gerald afterwards remarked, his grandmothers, aunts, and female cousins to the third degree. He told us that he had selected a spot for the hunt some three or four miles further up the valley, and he suggested that we should camp out there for the evening so as to make an early start the following morning. The next evening, accordingly, our tent was pitched in a curious cup-like hollow — a sort of Devil's Punch- bowl — surrounded by low hills. These hills were covered with dense scrub, and were the chosen haunts of the boars and lions, whence they issued to make their nocturnal raids on the crops and flocks of the Moors. As the evening wore on several natives who were to act as our beaters on the morrow, put in an appear- ance. A wild-looking lot they were, many of them having singularly fair complexions, which are not an uncommon feature among the mountain tribes of Marocco. A roaring fire was lit, the flames whereof blazed and crackled merrily, sending forth showers of 76 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. sparks, which leaped high into the darkness. Over- head the smoke hung like a grey pall, on which the firelight shed lurid red reflections. The Moors squatted round and warmed their stomachs at the blaze, looking like so many bundles of old clothes. The talk was chiefly of wild beasts and hunting, as was only to be expected, and some splendid yarns were soon in circulation. Legend was particularly rife concerning the size and ferocity of a certain man- eating lion who had devoured several of the natives and was the terror of the entire neighbourhood. " Allah kreem ! " said an old Moor, who was nursing his long gun on his knee, " God is merciful ! it was scarce two moons ago when I was returning home late one evening, that I saw the sba (lion). May I never see the houris of Paradise if he was not as big as an ox, and his eyes glowed like coals of fire. My heart was in my throat, my liver descended, and my knees were loosened with fear ; but God was merciful, and withheld the beast from attacking me. How wonderful is Allah ! " "Ya lateef, God have pity!" cried a youth on whose chin the beard of manhood was just beginning to sprout, determined not to be outdone ; " why, I saw the lion myself only last night." This assertion being received with grunts expressive of incredulity, the youth proceeded to tell of a con- versation he had heard the previous evening between the lion in question and an enormous boar. The Moors, I should mention, like the peasantry in some of the more out-of-the-way parts of Europe, credit all animals with powers of speech and understanding, and maintain imaginary conversations with them at THE LION HUNT. 77 .q-reat length. " Mashallah ! " cried the youth, " it is true every word of it. Ala rasi, on my head be it if I lie." He then proceeded to deliver his narrative with much volubility and emphatic gestures. He was lying out, he said, by night beside a pool in the forest on the look out for the game which came thither to drink. Soon after midnight a huge boar appeared, followed at a short interval by the man- eating lion. He was sure it was the man-eater because his skin was mangy and the hair had come off in patches on his back. "Salaam alikum, peace be with you," said the lion politely, "And with you peace," returned the boar. And then they fell to talking together just as might two human beings. The youth could not catch all the rest of the con- versation, as the animals were some distance off, but he distinctly heard the lion say that some pigs of Christians had arrived in the country and that, by the camel of Mohammed, he meant to burn their fathers — aiiglice, " do for them " — and scatter their relations at the earliest opportunity. The Father of Tusks approved the sentiments of the tawny-maned sheikh of the forest, but he took exception to the phrase " pigs of Christians." Not by any means because it was an insult to the Christians, but because he (the boar) objected to being named in such com- pany. He was as good a Moslem, or a better, than the lion, and would prove it to him in battle if the latter wished. " La ilaha il Allah, there is but one God," concluded the boar defiantly, glaring at the lion and whetting his tusks significantly. 7S THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. The Hon, terrified by the ferocious aspect of the boar, whose ivories gleamed in the moonlight, and whose bristles stood on end with rage, apologetically- said that he meant no offence when speaking of " pigs." He was alluding to the effeminate inmate of the domestic sty, not to the free, powerful, and noble creature he saw before him. The boar was pacified, and commenced grubbing up the ground, and the Arab, being too frightened to fire, crept away to his home. " Holy Prophet ! " said the old Arab who had spoken first, and who was by no means pleased at having his tale capped by another and more astound- ing yarn, — " Holy Prophet ! did you ever hear such a liar.'' In the name of Moulai Idrees, what dogs' sons are we that we should each eat such dirt, and eat it at the hands of a boy, too ? " The youth sprang up with his hand on his dagger, and would have made a hole in the old gentleman's skin, had not his companions restrained him, " By my beard " — the oath could hardly be considered a binding one, for he swore by what did not exist — " by my beard, but I will finish you off, you son of a burnt father. Lai sti shimlek, may God scatter your relations ! " An end was put to the fracas by the sheikh rising and announcing his intention of retiring to rest. " Good evening to you, Nazarenes," he said. " May your slumbers be light. Take your rest now. Ghadda, inshallah, to-morrow, please Allah, we will prevail against the Father of Tusks and defile the graves of the marauding lions." Not feeling incHned to turn in immediately, Gerald THE LION HUNT. 79 and I lit our pipes and strolled out a short distance into the forest. The night was fine and warm, so, seating ourselves on the top of a boulder of rock, we puffed away in silence. It was a strangely weird scene. One side of the hollow wherein we were encamped was in deep shadow ; on the other, the moonbeams glinted from the white rocks with a peculiarly ghostly effect, and the stars flickered like fire-flies in the steel-blue firmament. Below us the flashes of light from the dying embers of the camp fire fell fitfully on the wild forms of the recumbent Moors. Now and again an owl would raise its melancholy cry, as if presaging woe ; and the hyaena's laugh and the hideously human cry of the jackal jarred discordantly on our ears. Save for these sounds and the shivering of the breeze in the thicket all was still and silent as the grave. We must have sat on the rock nearly half an hour, until at length, our pipes being out, we prepared to go in. " Hist ! What is that .'"' whispered Gerald, clutch- ing my arm and pointing towards a small gully enveloped in shadow, which descended to our camp- ing-ground. Straining my eyes in the direction indicated, I fancied I could discern the form of some large animal creeping stealthily through the bushes, but before I could form any conception as to what it was, a most awful roar like a thunder-clap, followed by a succession of piercing shrieks, broke the stillness of the night. A huge lion, doubtless the man-eater spoken of by the Moors, had sprung out of the bushes upon a man who was lying curled up a little outside the circle 8o THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. round the fire, and, with his victim in his jaws, made off up the hill. In the camp all was shouting and confusion. A few random shots were fired in the direction where the lion had last been seen, and some of the bolder spirits started in pursuit. Snatching up our rifles, Gerald and I joined in the chase, though our hopes of saving the man's life were but small. We were forcing our way with difficulty through the thicket, little more than a hundred yards from the tents, when I stumbled over something soft. Looking down, I saw that it was the body of the Moor, which the lion, alarmed by the number of pursuers, had been compelled to drop. Striking a match, I recog- nized the features of the youth who had regaled us with the story of the boar and the Hon. He little thought, poor fellow, when he told us the tale, that he was destined to make the man-eater's acquaintance in so speedy and tragic a manner. He was quite dead, having received terrible injuries. The back of his head was smashed completely in, evidently by a blow from the brute's paws, and his left shoulder was bitten nearly through. " Allah kreem, God be merciful to us ! " said the old Arab with whom he had the quarrel. " Azrael hath indeed taken him from us. He will never tell any more stories. Ah welli, woe is me ! may his soul rest in peace ! 'twas the will of Allah." On our return to the tents with the body the fire was rekindled and we set a watch of three Moors. The latter were all terrified out of their lives, being convinced that the lion was a djin, or evil spirit, if he was not the Sheitan himself, and I don't think any of them slept very much more that night. THE LION HUNT. 8i Nothing further, however, occurred to alarm us, and the following morning saw us afoot, eager to avenge the death of the Moor. At the start we had perhaps fifty beaters, but as the day wore on men kept dropping in by twos and threes till there must have been nearly a hundred of them. Every man who had a selokee (greyhound) or a gun brought them with him. The selokees were not exactly the sort of animals one would see at a coursing meeting in England. In fact, though they called them grey- hounds, I should imagine the breed was as ambiguous as that of the dog described by the station-master as having been " got by a porter out of a third-class carriage." The first beat was in that part of the forest where boars principally abounded. The guns, to the number of nearly twenty, were posted in line half-way up the hillside. Some of them climbed up into the branches of stunted olive trees ; others perched themselves on rocks anywhere their fancy took them, and all kept their long matchlocks ready primed. Seeing the irregularity of the line, and knowing the recklessness of the natives in their use of firearms, I did not feel at all comfortable, and secretly hoped that the Father of Tusks would not break cover in my direction. The sequel proved my fears to be not unfounded. When everything was ready the line of beaters advanced. The sheikh led off with the customary adjuration, " Lain el Sheitan, may God curse the devil ! " and spat on the ground as he said it. The other Moors followed his example. Whenever any game was started shouts of " How ! How !" " Deeb, How ! How ! " when a jackal was seen ; " Thalcb, G 82 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. How ! How ! " when a fox broke cover,^ with much jabbering and pantomime. At last louder howls of " Halloof, How ! How ! " accompanied by the braying of horns and the yapping of innumerable curs told us that a boar was on foot. And then they all started swearing with one accord. Heavens, how those Arabs do swear ! None of your commonplace monosyllabic oaths, but long-winded, elaborate male- dictions which would cover half a page of writing. The boar's father and grandfather were burnt. All sorts of unpleasant scandals in his family history were raked up. His mother and sister, it appeared, each had an old jackass for a sweetheart ; his great- grandfather, who was the miserable offspring of an incestuous union between two other pigs higher up the family tree, was now being consumed to a cinder in Jehannum. The various improprieties of all the other pigs and piglings were set forth at length, and the graves of the whole lot were indiscriminately defiled. The sturdiest tusker could not weather such a storm of imprecations, so I was not surprised to see a grand old boar, a regular " forty-incher," as they say in India, with gleaming tusks and bristles grizzled with age, break cover. A pack of selokees yapped and yelped at his heels as he came charging along like a thousand of bricks up the hill. As he neared the line of ambushed sportsmen he was received with a volley ' This view-holloa of the Moors has suggested a derivation for a phrase whose origin is enveloped in much obscurity. Is it not just possible that " Tally Ho " may be an Anglicized version of " Thaleb How?" In any case, if the similarity be but a coincidence, it must be admitted that it is a very curious one. THE LION HUNT. 83 accompanied by more shouts and curses. Bullets screamed through the air in all directions, and one of the native hunters shouted out that the karauii (accursed beast) had "devoured much lead." "Nay," replied an old white-haired hunter, "your words are wind. I know yon boar of old. He is a djin. Many times have I fired at him (and ye know my aim never misses), and the bullets have fallen harmless from his side. May Allah curse the devil ! " The result seemed to lend colour to the old fellow's theory, for, with a defiant whisk of his tail, piggy bounded up the hill and cantered into the thicket apparently untouched. The firing, however, had not been altogether without effect, for, hearing a pro- longed howl of woe, I turned round in time to see the gun next but one on my right leap up into the air on one leg, and subside violently in a sitting posture to the ground. Running up, I inquired what was the matter. "Walo! walo ! la bas ; nothing, nothing; it is all right," said my next neighbour. He had only put a slug through the calf of the unfortunate man's leg, and that is a mere trifle in these parts. If he had shot a favourite dog it would have been a very different matter. " Mektoob Allah, 'twas written by Allah. Who can resist the decrees of Fate ? " he remarked sententiously. His victim was in no wise comforted by these pious reflections, but set to work to curse him with a will. " Ah welli, welli, woe is me ! " he wailed piteously ; and once more the air grew blue and thick with Arab profanity levelled at the head of the clumsy marks- man. With much inconsistency he called him a man 84 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. without a father, expressing in the same breath the wish that the said father might grill in the lower regions. He insulted his female kinsfolk, and asked for his mother's marriage certificate ; and he announced his intention, as soon as the wound in his leg was healed, of performing a pilgrimage for the express purpose of defiling his grandfather's grave. The object of all this bad language listened with great calmness, made some sagacious and highly original observations upon the unalterable laws of destiny, and commenced reloading his gun, shovelling in the powder by handfuls and ramming the lead vigorously home. The wounded man having been removed and his hurts attended to, the hunt was proceeded with. At midday a halt was called, and the Moors set to work to call off the dogs. Some of the latter had been killed by the boar, others had received rips, and the grief of their owners testified to the affection with which the Moors regard their four-footed friends. We found that seven boars, besides smaller game, such as foxes and jackals, had been bagged. The beaters had worked hard and showed themselves well up to their work. "Smart, intelligent fellows, these hunters," remarked Urquhart to me as we shouldered our rifles and followed the beaters. " I have often noticed in un- civilized countries that the best hunters are the most intelligent men in general matters, while with us I fear the reverse is the case. How is it that in England hunting — perhaps the finest of all sports — tends to make gruel of people's brains ? Your in- veterate fox-hunter can so seldom be got to take a THE LION HUNT. 85 rational interest in anything beyond his horses and hounds." " Perhaps," I replied, " it is because with these people hunting is business as well as pleasure. Any- how, what you say about our country Nimrods at home is perfectly true." The more serious business of the day, the lion hunt, had been reserved for the afternoon. Under the guidance of the sheikh, we crossed a low range of hills, from whose summit we had an extensive view of the rugged mountain country we had passed through. Peak beyond peak reared its head towards the north, and over all could be seen the looming white mass of the main Atlas chain. The scenery was not in itself strictly beautiful, yet the mellow light of the African autumn shed a peculiar glamour over everything, and, veiling the landscape in a soft delicate haze, robbed it of its sterner features. A tramp of half an hour brought us to the hill where the man-eater had last been seen on the previous night ; and with a gravity befitting the occasion the sheikh commenced his dispositions for the hunt. Complete silence was enforced, and the Moors, re- pressing for once their propensity to chatter, conversed only in whispers. Indeed, dread of the man-eater had so damped their ardour that I had some doubts as to their beating the covert properly. However, when once they had begun, their sporting instincts got the better of their fears, and they stuck manfully to the work. At Urquhart's request some of the Moors armed with guns were induced to join the ranks of the beaters, instead of endangering our lives and their 86 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. own by posting themselves near us. At the top of the hill above our camping-ground was a plateau nearly half a mile in width. In the centre of this plateau there was a slight depression covered with a dense jungle of thorny bushes. A low band of precipitous rocks ran along the further side of the depression, which would effectually prevent any game from making its escape in that direction. Six or eight of the best native marksmen were posted in a line opposite these rocks, while Gerald, Urquhart, and myself took up our position facing the beaters. The hunt commenced with prayer to Allah and the usual imprecations upon the lions, and then the beaters, keeping close together and in good line, entered the bush. As they neared the dense thicket the dogs suddenly started barking furiously, and then there was a hullabaloo, similar to, but louder than, that caused by the finding of the boar. Cries of "S'bal S'ba!" (the lion! the lion!), mingled with curses both loud and deep, rent the air and put us all on the alert. For awhile nothing could be seen, but presently I caught sight of a very old lion, his coat grey and mangy with age, making off slowly in the direction of the line of native sportsmen. They, perceiving he was not likely to prove a very formidable foe, stood their ground and fired at him. Some of the shots, strange to say, took effect, and, with a feeble growl, the wretched beast rolled over dead. The delight of the natives was unbounded. They yelled with triumph and heaped insults on their prostrate enemy. Emboldened by this success, ithe beaters summoned up courage to enter the thicket. They had not proceeded far when a most tremendous roar, THE LION HUNT. 87 which seemed to come from the centre of the jungle, sent them flying pell-mell back. Louder and louder grew the roars, and it became evident there were at least two lions, probably the man-eater and his mate. The dogs showed more pluck than their masters, who contented themselves with standing outside and throwing stones and mud into the bush. Meanwhile the.selokees kept barking loudly and and viciously, the Moors redoubled their yells, and what with the roaring of the lions, there was an in- describable hubbub. At length, finding her quarters getting too hot for her, the lioness made a bolt of it, but, catching sight of the hunters, she quickly went back into the thicket. The dogs, however, pressing close upon her, she burst once • more out of the bush and charged down on the line of beaters, who broke and scattered in all directions, and so made her escape. The place where I was stationed was about eighteen yards' distance from the thicket, the intervening space being covered with a sparse growth of under- wood. Round knobs of rock here and there protruded their bald crowns from out the hairy growth of scrub and brushwood. I was looking at one of these knobs, when I suddenly espied an enormous lion crouching, with his head turned towards me and his body partially hidden by the rock. The distance was not much over fifty yards, so, though I am by no means a good shot, I let drive at him with the right barrel of my Express. I heard a savage growl, and when the smoke cleared away there was the lion in the same position on the rock, his shaggy head between his paws. " I've done for him," thought I ; "he is 88 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. disabled, and I'll finish him off with the left barrel." Suddenly, just as I was drawing a bead on him, he sprang up with a terrific roar, and bounded towards me, making a curious grumbling noise something like the barking of a dog. 1 took a snap shot at him, and then he disappeared from my sight in some thick underwood. One moment I fancied I could see the bushes shaking about twenty yards off, as though some large beast was moving through them, but I could distinguish nothing. About a minute passed in this way. I was peering in the direction where I thought I had last seen the lion, when a roar, which seemed to issue from the bowels of the earth, split the drum of my ear. I was conscious of a large body darkening the air as it flew towards me ; a tremendous blow descended like a thunder-bolt on my left shoulder, and the next moment I was lying on my back on the ground in the grip of the man- eater. For awhile — I know not how long, but it was probably only a few moments — the shock deprived me of consciousness. When I came round my senses were numbed, and I could not realize the awful nature of the situation in which I was placed. The brute was standing over me, making that fearful noise which visitors to the " Zoo " may hear any day at feeding time. In the bush the shouts and cries of the Arabs who had seen me fall sounded confused and indistinct in my ear. The lion's paw was resting heavily on my chest, his eyes glared at me like two live coals, and his filthy breath came full in my face. The teeth of a man-eater are always decayed and rotten, owing to his diet of human flesh, which disagrees with him and THE LION HUNT. 89 also makes his skin mangy. An age seemed to pass as I lay in the brute's grip, but Urquhart told me afterwards that the whole thing was over in little more than a minute. Of course I thought it was all up with me. Every moment I expected that my head would be in his mouth, and that with one crunch of those mighty jaws an end would be put to my existence. Yet I do not remember feeling any particular sensation of fear, no doubt owing to the fact of my being in a state of partial stupor. Yet in a way my faculties seemed awake, and, indeed, abnormally active. A thousand things passed in rapid review through my brain. Innumerable scenes of my early youth, long-forgotten trivial incidents, came before me, just as drowning men are said to recall at the point of death all the events of their past life. Happily, the beast did not use his fangs upon me. The instinct which causes all creatures of the cat tribe to toy with their victims before destroying them no doubt saved my life, as it gave my companions time to come to my rescue. Presently there was heard the crack of a rifle. Urquhart had fired. There was a dull thud as the Express bullet crashed into the man-eater's side, expanding within and tearing his vitals to pieces. With a hideous noise, half growl, half snarl, the beast fell right on me, ripping my thigh badly with his hind paws in his death-agony. Gerald and Urquhart came running up and pulled me out from under the carcase ; then the natural reaction set in, and I swooned away once more. 90 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. These stars are not put in for the sake of effect, but in order to help me to convey to my readers my sensations as I went off. Ten thousand constellations danced before my eyes. The firmament waltzed round me, the sun became as blood, and everything seemed turned topsy-turvy. When I regained consciousness Urquhart and Gerald were bending over me, dashing water in my face. I tried to move, but a terrible pain in my shoulder caused me to cry out, and I was forced to lie still. I thought my shoulder was dislocated, but on examination it proved to be only terribly bruised, while the claws of the man-eater had inflicted some ugly scratches on my thighs. Otherwise I had got off pretty well. The Moors skilfully improvised a sort of litter out of a couple of poles and some branches, on which I was carried down to the tent, and on the following morning they took me down to our main camp in the oasis. The lion proved to be a very large one, but the skin was in such bad condition that it was not worth preserving. One of my shots, probably the first, had struck him in the low^er part of the belly, inflicting a slight wound, which only served to infuriate him. There was great rejoicing among the Moors when the result of our hunt became known. Bonfires were lit, and there was much blowing of horns and rheetahs, and beating of tom-toms, and feasting and merry- making. True, we had only killed two lions, but we were assured that this was all that was needed, as the others would be scared out of the country and would not venture to return for a long time. My injuries necessitated our prolonging our stay in the oasis, and THE LION HUNT. 91 two or three days elapsed before I could get about at all. My shoulder was very stiff and painful for a long time, while the wounds in my thigh would not heal readily and from time to time gave me trouble long afterwards. 92 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. CHAPTER VIII. A MOORISH DINNER-PARTY. In gratitude for our delivering them from the man- eating pest, the sheikh of our village entertained us at a great feast on the evening of the fourth day after the hunt. Soon after sundown a deputation of Moors arrived at our tents, bearing dishes with tall bee-hive shaped wicker covers, and a variety of delicacies were set down before us. The first course consisted of the inevitable kuskussoo, the national dish of Marocco, a mess of flour, sniin (rancid butter) and shredded meat. Next followed sundry highly flavoured stews reeking of oil and garlic, chickens, and a kind of moist cake like half-baked muffins. The repast was washed down with weak green tea as sweet as syrup, and strongly flavoured with mint and verbena. Altogether, as may be imagined, the meal was a rather trying one, and I was not sorry when the sheikh, who had come in to see how we were enjoying ourselves, took his leave and gave us a chance of sending the stuff" away. As soon as our appetites were appeased (and we found that a little of such viands went a long way) A MOORISH DINNER-PARTY. 93 the dishes and their wicker covers were removed, and the servants' dinner was brought in. We were anxious to see what a Moorish dinner-party was like, and certainly we came in for a very comic entertain- ment. Through the door of their tent we could see Ali, Mohammed, Almarakshi, and the sheikh seated in a circle round a veritable mountain of kuskussoo which was steaming away like a volcano in their midst. "Barikallah! Praised be Allah!" exclaimed Ali. "A sweet savour of kuskussoo assaileth my nostrils, and my senses are gratified at the prospect of repletion." " Staferallah ! " chimed in Mohammed with his favourite ejaculation. " The sight of yonder dishes is grateful to mine eyes as the sound of bubbling fountains to the ears of thirsty travellers ; for, verily, hunger gnaweth like a wolf at my entrails, and in the pit of my stomach a great gulf is fixed, and needs must it be replenished." A sheep had been killed for the occasion, and roast mutton ad libitum was served up along with the kuskussoo. The bread having been broken in orthodox fashion, and the " Bismillah " pronounced, they all fell to. The Moors eat with their hands, everybody thrusting his fingers into the steaming pile and gobbling away like mad so as not to come short. For some time the whole party was too busily engaged in stuffing to talk, the silence only being broken by occasional eructations, which are considered quite good form at meals in Marocco so long as they are followed by some pious exclamation, such as "Hamdoollah!" "Bismillah!" or "Staferallah!" 94 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. I never saw such guzzling, but they showed no signs of stopping, till each man had swallowed enough to satisfy five hungry Christians, when Mohammed, who seemed to play the best knife and fork (metaphorically speaking) of the party, leaned back with a deep sigh of satisfaction and commenced sucking his fingers. This operation concluded, he tore a big piece of fat meat from the joint and stuffed it into the sheikh's mouth, a compliment quite cl la mode Marocaine, which was seemingly much appreciated by the latter. Our cook then commenced a little speech lauding the generosity of his entertainer, but he had not proceeded far before he was seized with a violent attack of hiccoughs, which considerably marred the effect of his after-dinner oratory. " Holy Prophet ! friend Ali," he said, turning towards the Persian, " but this is indeed an excellent repast. Our worthy host here (hiccough) — may Allah prolong his life — hath feasted us right royally. Mashallah! (hiccough) Ya lateef ! What a pity! I was about to say (hiccough) Bismillah ! — that (three hiccoughs) — Staferallah ! " and he stopped for want of breath. " Hamdoollah ! God be praised," gravely returned the sheikh, taking a handful of kuskussoo and shovelling it into Mohammed's mouth, well nigh choking him and causing more strange noises and invocations to Allah and the Prophet, and finally sending him off into a fit of coughing, which lasted until he was black in the face. The unfortunate Mohammed not being sufficiently recovered to continue his speech, Ali presently took up his parable and finished it for him. A MOORISH DINNER-PARTY. 95 " By my soul, Hadj Mohammed, and by your death," he said, helping himself to a juicy morsel of mutton, " of a verity, this is a most toothsome sheep. I trow our father Mohammed (the peace and blessing of Allah be upon him and his descendants !) never tasted a better. Verily, our footsteps have been fortunate ; our ways have been set in pleasant places. The sun of contentment and prosperity hath shone upon our faces. The cravings of appetite have been sated with the bread of plenteousness, and the oil of gratitude shall anoint the head of generosity. The blessing of Allah and His holy Prophet be upon your beard, O sheikh." This oration was received with violent eructations all round, expressive of their approbation of the speaker's sentiments, accompanied by more exclama- tions of " Mashallah ! " " Hamdoollah ! " and other pious, but utterly irrelevant, expressions. Then the hubble-bubble was lit, and after they had sat and smoked for awhile the party broke up and we all went to bed. Next morning Mohammed came up to us and complained of a severe stomach-ache. He assured us that his digestion had never been right since he had made the acquaintance of the Son of a Gun, and he was convinced that he had been bewitched by that squinting offspring of the powers of darkness. One would have thought that a man who had disposed of a cubit foot or so of kuskussoo and half a leg of mutton, had fairly earned an attack of indigestion, but human nature is never willing to allow its gastric disorders to be the result of its own excesses. Mr. Pickwick said it was all the salmon. Mohammed, 96 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. who carried his animosity beyond the grave, laid the blame on the evil eye of the Son of a Gun. He was, further, particularly indignant because the dried leg of a toad, which he had purchased from the hakim to be worn next the pit of his stomach as a sure preventive against indigestion, had completely failed of its purpose. Gerald promised to prepare him a charm which would work far more quickly than his toad's leg, and produced from his pocket a couple of Seltzer powders. Putting the contents of the papers in a glass, he poured in the water, and, as the mixture bubbled and fizzed, Mohammed took to his heels, exclaiming that the Sheitan was in the cup, and it was with much difficulty that he was persuaded to drink it off. " May Allah preserve us from wicked spirits and from the influence of the evil eye," he exclaimed, as he tossed off the potion and nearly choked himself The next morning he appeared a trifle paler than usual. " Well, my old great-grandfather of a brass-handled stewpan," cried Gerald (in allusion to an article of Mohammed's batterie de cuisine), slapping him on the back, " how goes it this morning .-• Are not the charms of the kaffirs in truth more efficacious than those of the Moors ? " " La bas, Hamdoollah ! Well, praise be to Allah, I am very well, all things considered. But " — here he placed his hand on his portly front, as he winced visibly and big drops of perspiration stood out on his forehead — " of a verity, O Father of the Nose, the medicines of the Nazarenes be potent." A MOORISH DINNER-PARTY. 97 As soon as my wounds were sufficiently healed we prepared to resume our journey. Our servants, especially Mohammed, were by no means pleased to leave the comfortable quarters and good living they had been enjoying in the oasis, and, truth to tell, it was not without regret that we ourselves bade adieu to the simple, kindly peasant folk, among whom we had passed so many pleasant days. With all their faults, I cannot help loving the Arabs, There is some- thing wonderfully taking about their quaint ways and keen sense of humour, their earnestness, and wonder- ful patience under misfortune, and I really believe that though the whole tribe of them were always burning our fathers and consigning us Christians to everlasting perdition, they were all very sorry to see us depart. Their hatred of the Nazarene is not natural to them, but is simply the result of their religious training. They have been taught to look upon us as people whose throats are to be cut in this world, and who are to be grilled eternally in the next, and, to do them justice, many of them endeavour to carry out their part of the programme to the letter. After awhile, when you get to know them better, and have penetrated this outer crust of barbarous fanaticism, you come upon the true, kindly nature beneath. You then discover that, far from being demons actuated by a spirit of hideous malevolence towards those who have the misfortune to disagree with their religious convictions, they are ordinary human beings endowed with a full share of the milk of human kindness. Truly, it is a curious thing to think what fiends to all outward appearance the spirit of religious intoler- H 98 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. ance makes of men otherwise the most amiable and inoffensive. Take the case of our worthy friend the sheikh of this village, a person whom we all like and esteem. Mingled with his prayers for his own welfare and deliverance from the wrath to come, are imprecations on the heads of all unbelievers, and the expression of his hope for their speedy destruction and eternal torment. Yet I would not do him the injustice to suppose that it would afford him the slightest satis- faction — nay, I am sure his good heart would be much distressed — if he knew that we were suffering the horrible things he invoked upon us. But, after all, are the members of our own faith much less merciless in this respect than the followers of the Prophet ? Do not we on certain solemn occasions consign to everlasting anguish all who think differently from ourselves on certain matters concerning which we profess to have exclusive knowledge .'' Paterfamilias solemnly mumbles his x-\thanasian Creed, then takes his stroll at Church Parade in the Park, and eats a hearty lunch in the serene consciousness of having done his duty as a man and a Christian in consigning three-fourths of the entire human race to perdition ; and the matter doesn't distress him in the slightest. But I am being drawn into a religious discussion, and that will never do. The one fact I wish to bring out is that the sheikh, in spite of his fanaticism, was as Gerald phrased it, " a thundering good chap," and we were all sorry to leave him. He had expressed great admiration for Urquhart's mule, and before we left he said he would be glad to buy it. Finding, however, that the owner was unwilling to part with A MOORISH DINNER-PARTY. 99 the beast, he forbore from pressing him. " Suboork- allah ! may God bless it," he politely remarked, and with many expressions of good-will, invoking (in most unorthodox fashion, by the way) the blessings of Allah on our heads, he bade us God-speed upon our journey. THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. CHAPTER IX. THE FAIR AT SOK EL AREA. After leaving the oasis, we soon got beyond the mountains. The increasing scarcity of vegetation, and the wide tracts of sand which had to be crossed, showed that we were getting nearer the desert, though as yet we were far from the Sahara proper. Wells, too, were becoming less frequent, and the water of worse quality, so it was with a feeling of relief that, after several days' travelling in a south-easterly direction, we caught sight of a few palm-trees in the distance which we knew betokened the presence of an oasis. Our pleasure was still greater when we found that we had arrived at the valley of the Wad Draa, the largest and most important river in this part of Africa. For some days our course would be along its banks, and all natural obstacles to our pro- gress would cease for a time. The valley was far less fertile than that of the Wad Sus, but it was nevertheless fairly well populated. Negroes appeared to form a large proportion- of the natives, and we heard the Berber tongue more frequently spoken than Arabic. The river flowed in a tortuous course THE FAIR AT SOK EL AREA. \o\ between high mud-banks clothed here and there with tamarisk and oleanders. The cultivable ground on either side was not of great extent, and often the road took us outside its borders and on to the barren, treeless waste of the desert. On these occasions it was always refreshing to get back to the palm-groves and the comparatively fertile slopes of the Draa valley. The country, as a glance at any map will show, was studded with numerous saoicias, or sanctuaries. These zaouias are generally the burial places of Marabouts, or holy men, whose kubbe (white, dome-shaped tombs) are a frequent and conspicuous feature of the landscape, both here and in north Marocco. Villages, small clusters of tabbia, or mud- built huts, spring up round these sanctuaries. The zaouia is generally presided over, and owned by a sherecf, or descendant of the Prophet, who makes a good thing out of the offerings of pilgrims at the shrine of the departed saint. We were passing one of these Marabouts' alcoves, or kiibbe (the word " alcove " is simply al kiibba) one day, when we saw a miserable half-starved look- ing creature cowering inside. A few yards from the entrance three truculent-looking natives sat keeping guard. We asked Ali what was up, and he said that the man had killed a relation of one of the three watchers, and, fleeing from their vengeance, he had gone upon the biist. " ' Been upon the bust,' has he ">. " cried Gerald. " Well, just tell him not to do it again. It's evident dissipation don't agree with him. Just see how pale and thin he looks." Ali hastened to explain that " bust " was Persian 102 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. for sanctuary, and that the unhappy criminal had taken refuge in the zaouia, the sanctity of which he knew his pursuers would not dare to violate. There was nothing, however, to prevent them sitting down and starving the poor wretch out ; and this was just what they were doing. After some haggling we managed to purchase the intended victim's liberty by payment of a itw dollars' blood-money, though I for one would not answer for his life as soon as our backs were turned, in spite of the oaths and promises made to us that not a hair of his head should be injured. We stayed a few days in a place called Sok el Arba, or Place of the Wednesday Market, the sheikh of which was good enough to extend to us his friend- ship and protection. He told us that the zaouia was a rendezvous for the hadjis, or pilgrims, on their journey from the shrine of the Prophet at Mecca, and that a great yearly fair was about to be held, which would be attended by a vast concourse of people. Merchants had been daily arriving with caravans from the south, trains of pilgrims eager to pray at the shrine of a very high-class saint, one Moulai Hamed Abd El Kader Gil Ali Ben Absalam, whose bones reposed in a large kubba in the vicinity. Already the place was full of tents, with their owners' camels and horses picketed around, and cattle and goats and sheep innumerable. Every one was on the move, preparing for the great festival, which would last over the three following days. Troops of mounted men were practising the lab el baroud, or powder-play on horseback, conspicuous in their mad charges being the shereefs in their soulhams of sea- green, the colour reserved for those who can boast THE FAIR A T SOK EL AREA. 103 that the blood of the Prophet runs in their veins. A perpetual piping and tom-tomming was kept up, which, combined with the rattle of musketry and the shrill " lu, lu, lu," of the women encouraging their lords, made a tremendous din. On the morrow all the Moorish world and his wife were early astir, and by the time we arrived on the scene the dusty plain was covered by a buzzing multitude, whose attention was concentrated upon the various entertainments which had been provided for their amusement. It was a curious, and, I must say, a marvellously picturesque scene. From a distance we looked down on what seemed like a sea of turbans, and fezzes, and shaven scalps. All was bustle and confusion. The sun beat fiercely down upon the shadeless expanse, and a choking dust enveloped everything. Knots of Moors were squatted on the ground, listening open-mouthed to the story- tellers, who, with much pantomime and vigorous gesticulation, regaled them with yEsopian fables. Others were gathered round the snake-charmers, clowns, tumblers, fortune-tellers, single-stick players, and jugglers, who, after performing their marvellous feats, "sent round the hat" just as their co7if)'(:yes would do in England. What a motley crew, to be sure ! Rich and poor, robes and rags, the starved and the overfed. And what a jabber of contending jargons ! What a mixture of types and colours and costumes ! from the white-faced Moorish merchant, clad in his eight yards or more of cloth, to the big Bambara nigger, whose raiment is a loin-cloth, a few flies, and a never-ceasing grin. Nor is the ubiquitous Jew absent. He wears a dark jcllabia, and his cap is I04 THE BRETHREX OF MOUNT ATLAS. black (the colour of Jehannum) and he is compelled to walk sHpperless, having the cringing, dejected air natural to a despised and persecuted race. Above us, on that bank up yonder, are the muffled women, in their white, flowing haiks, each squealing away at the top of her voice, as her husband performs some more than usually startling feat in the dance, o'r nearly blows his neighbour's head off as he discharges his matchlock in the air. Beggars — all sores and rags, blind, lame, deformed — are all over the place, hoarsely demanding backsheesh in the name of Allah and Moulai Idrees. Itinerant hawkers perambulate the mob, just as they would at a fair in England, only, instead of oranges and gingerbeer, they sell syrups, cakes, and lollypops in the name of Moulai Idrees. This saint, who, as I have said, is a very great gun out in these parts, seems to have a finger in every pie. Yon nigger water-carrier, ringing his bell as he pours the filthy liquid he has just collected from the nearest puddle through the brass nozzle of his goatskin bag, claims the patronage of the holy man, and charges an extra mozuna per cup on that account. " El ma, el ma ! Water, pure water, from the holy Ain el Beida (white spring), dug by our father Moulai Idrees. Balak ! balak ! make room, make room ! Ya Mohammed ! Ya Moulai Idrees ! Come and drink, come and drink. In the name of Allah and His holy Prophet, who'll have a cooler, who'll have a cooler ? " Yes ! change the costumes ; put a steam-organ or hurdy-gurdy in place of those musicians with their rheetahs and tom-toms, and alter one or two minor details, and you might almost fancy yourself at some country fair in the Midlands, or amongst our English THE FAIR AT SOK EL AREA. 105 bedouins on Epsom Downs. The same idea evidently strikes Gerald, who enters thoroughly into the fun of the fair, and he suggests that we should start Aunt Sally, or, in lack of cocoa-nuts, play leap-frog. "La ilaha ill' Allah! Three shies a penny! Ya lateef. What a pity we have no cocoa-nuts. Bis- millah ! tuck in your twopenny," he cried, " making a back" for Urquhart, who was over him like a shot, I following. The natives were highly diverted, think- ing some new species of mountebank had arrived from the land of the Roum (Europeans). "Oollah!" exclaimed a young athletic-looking Moor, gazing admiringly at Urquhart, "but he jumps like a gazelle." Ali, far from sharing in the delight of the Moors, viewed these proceedings with grave concern, and expostulated with Urquhart on his undignified conduct. " By the soul of your great-grandfather, and by your beard," he said, " do not, I pray you, eat dirt before the eyes of this people, or Allah only knows what mischief may befall you, and I shall be power- less to avert it. The robe of dignity is as steel armour against the shafts of insult, but they who clothe themselves in a garment of shame must be prepared to chew the cud of mortification. There is but one God, and Mohammed is the Prophet of God." "Mohammed be blowed !" cried the irrepressible Gerald. " Here's the only real sporting Prophet. Allah akbar ! two to one, bar one ! May your shadows never be less ! What price outsiders ? " And he mounted on a stone, pencil and note-book in hand, like any genuine " bookie," amid a throng of To5 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. gaping and astonished natives, who imagined him to be a kaffir story-teller about to start upon a new and original yarn. Almarakshi, who shared Ali's opinion of our con- duct, wagged his head gravely and said to our cook that he feared the Father of the Nose was " hhamak " (scotticc, "had a bee in his bonnet"). This presumption on Almarakshi's part called forth a stern rebuke from Mohammed, who asked him, in the name of Moulai Idrees, what dog he could name as his father that he should presume to criticize his betters, remarking further that, "Hamdoollah! blessed be Allah!" if it pleased the tajjers to play the giddy goat, it was no business of his (Almarakshi's) to interfere. Yielding to Ali's expostulations, we desisted from larking, to the evident disappointment of the natives, who were in hopes of witnessing some novel perform- ance, and continued our way through the crowd, which seemed to grow denser every moment. Pre- sently a troop of gaily attired horsemen come prancing and caracoling through the mob, and following them is a shercef in turban and sea-green soulham, mounted on a tall dromedary. His satel- lites, crying " Balak ! Balak!" clear a passage for him among the people, who meekly withdraw before the holy man. Every step reveals something new and picturesque. Lines of pious pilgrims are filing wearily up a slight eminence to the tomb of the saint, leading the sacrificial heifer by a cord. Troops of gaudily-clad warriors perform military quadrilles amid shouts and the din of musketry. A portly merchant from some far-off town rides by on his sleek mule, and a peasant on his humble ass drives THE FAIR AT SOK EL AREA. 107 his sheep and goats to the soko. Just look, too, at that maniac yonder, naked to the waist, his long matted hair streaming in the wind, jibbering away to himself as he brandishes a rusty old spear with gaudy rags and bits of ribbon tied on the head. The people of course reverence him as a saint, saying that he has been visited of Heaven, and that his reason is in the keeping of Allah. If he hits you over the head with his spear, or spits in your face, you will have to look as though you liked it and render thanks to Allah that the holy man has condescended to notice you. "Look here, old man," said Gerald to Ali, "it's evidently considered a high distinction out here to be a drivelling idiot, so don't you go insulting people by asking after their sanity, or making polite speeches about their brains being in good order ; or you'll get into hot water. They'll take it as a deadly insult, they will. You must say, ' Good morning to you, sir ; I trust you are feeling tolerably cracked to-day.' ' Peace be with you,' he will reply. ' I had a slight return of my lucid intervals yesterday, but the attack has since left me, and I am now thoroughly insane, thanks be to Allah ! ' Hullo ! what's all this noise about .? " As he spoke, a great shout was raised of " Aissaouie ! Aissaouie ! " and a rush was made by the crowd to an open space on the right. We allowed ourselves to be carried along with the stream, and, descending a sandy lane enclosed on either side by hedges of cactus and aloe, we saw what looked like a mob of lunatics in convulsions slowly approaching us. These were the Aissaouie, the followers of the sect of Aissa, a species of howling dervishes who are held in great lo8 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. repute throughout Barbary. There were nearly a hundred of them altogether, men and women, half- naked, save that a few were clad in panther-skins, of which they were tremendously proud. On they came in circles of two lines each, performing a sort of hideous double shuffle to the music of pipes and tom-toms and the clash of cymbals, which mingled with the shouts and howls of the mob and the shrill cries of the women. In their midst devotees carried great embroidered banners of green and gold. Not daring to approach too near, we planted ourselves on a hillock hard by, whence we had a full view of the Bacchantic orgies. It was a strange and revolting spectacle on which we gazed. Methinks I can see those horrible faces now — some wearing an expression of agony, others simply with the vacant grin of idiocy — faces as of men possessed with a thousand devils, such as are only to be seen in a madhouse or a night- mare. In delirious transports, with convulsive gulps and groans and howls, the fanatics called upon Allah for aid, tossing their heads and shaking their long black elf-locks, rocking their bodies to and fro in contortions as they kept up the hideous dance. Some grovelled about on the ground, pretending to be goats and pigs and other animals ; others cut and bit and scratched themselves till the blood flowed out upon them. In the midst of them all, a huge black negress clad in a long white chemise, who had been jumping about with frantic vehemence, fell to the ground in a fit, foaming at the mouth, and swallowing mud and stones, and performing the most revolting antics. Near her a tall emaciated Moor, a sort of walking THE FAIR AT SOK EL AREA. 109 skeleton in rags, held a piece of red-hot charcoal between a pair of tongs, which he applied to his left arm, keeping it there for fully a minute. He uttered no cry, and the quivering muscles, which seemed distended almost to breaking point as the steam arose from the frizzling flesh, were the only indica- tions that he suffered pain, while, with eyes half starting from their sockets, he grinned idiotically, as though he were enjoying it. Then an aged fanatic with long, flowing, white beard, who, from the superior quality of his con- tortions and the howls which accompanied them, seemed to be the mokaddein, or high priest, of the band, called in a loud voice for the " father of wool." Immediately half a dozen sturdy natives appeared, dragging along between them a sheep and a goat. The wretched creatures struggled and bleated piteously, as though conscious of the fate that awaited them, for, with a simultaneous howl, the pack of dervishes rushed, like tigers lusting for blood, upon their prey. Some seized the head, others the legs, of their victims, and pulled and pulled till they literally tore the animals asunder, and then there was a general scramble for the pieces. Tossing them in the air and smearing themselves with blood, the fanatics swallowed bits of the raw flesh, shrieking out "Allah I Allah ! " at the top of their voices. At last, seemingly drunk with blood, and exhausted with their superhuman exertions, some of them staggered and fell to the ground, where they lay in a state of stupor. Meanwhile the crowd were hugely delighted. Every one gave praise and thanks to Allah for no THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. vouchsafing to them so excellent a festival ; and they seemed to think that being present at such a loathsome spectacle was a cause for deep gratitude. For ourselves, we had had more than enough of it, so, as the afternoon was now wearing on, and the red ball of the sun was sinking in the desert to the west, we elbowed our way through the crowd and made our way back to the tents, leaving the turbaned throng of the faithful still hard at work at their festivities. ( III ) CHAPTER X. THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. We did not stay in Sok el Arba beyond the fifth day, being- anxious to make our way as soon as we con- veniently could to the zaouia of one Sheikh Seedy Mohammed Selim Alarby Barghash Abd cl Kreem, who, we were told, was the independent chieftain of a conglomeration of Arab tribes on the borders of the Great Desert It was of the utmost importance for us to obtain the good will of this potentate, as, other- wise, we should hardly be able to continue our journey into the interior. We had heard most alarming reports concerning his tyranny, rapacity, and fiendish cruelty, and the brutal way in which he oppressed his unfortunate subjects. Ali was provided with a letter of introduction to the sheikh from a Moorish merchant residing in Marakesh, who had once befriended Abd el Kreem while the latter was staying in that city some years before. The sheikh's territory would be the last inhabited country that we should pass through before we commenced our journey across the Sahara, and we reckoned on being able to purchase from him camels, desert horses, and other necessary 112 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. equipment. Should he prove hostile to our enterprise, or, indeed, if he simply refused to give us his co-opera- tion and aid, it would be almost impossible for us even to make the attempt to reach Mount Atlas. The following are a few notes I find in my diary of a not very interesting part of our journe}^ September i '^tli. — Up at dawn. Got quickly through the business of breakfast and packing, and off before seven, as it is getting too hot to travel in the middle of the day, and we must cover as much ground as possible in the cool. The country presents no new features. We pass through alternate stretches of desert and oasis, sometimes keeping along the river- bank, sometimes leaving it far on our left. \6tJi, 17th, a7id i2>th. — Crossed the river on the 1 6th, and travelled along the left bank for some hours, recrossing it the next day. The population is growing scantier, and we see very few zaouias. Food, too, is getting short. We have tasted little or no meat since leaving Sok el Arba, and live chiefly on cakes of flour and dates. 19///. — Had a long march to-day, as we are cutting off a big bend which the river makes to the east, and there are fifty or sixty miles of desert to be crossed before we strike it again. Camped by a muddy little pool of tepid water called the Ain el Wad el Bared, or Spring of the Cold River. There is no river, and the water is anything but cold ; but that is a mere trifle — these Arabs have such splendid imaginations. On the 20th we rejoined the Wad Draa close to where it makes its final turn to the west. From this point it flows straight away to the Atlantic — at least it does so when it has enough water. In the dry THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. II3 season its stream is swallowed up in the thirsty sands of the desert long before it arrives at the ocean. We were now within an easy day's march of Zaouia Seedy Idrees, the dwelling-place of the Sheikh Abd el Kreem, but instead of proceeding there at once we struck off on a journey of half a day in a westerly direction, to visit the great lake of Ed Debaia. This lake becomes completely dry at certain seasons, and the natives grow fine crops of corn on its bed. It is only filled with water when the melting of the Atlas snows brings the Draa down in flood. On the occasion of our visit it was in an intermediate state, a sort of shallow swamp formed of alternate patches of dry ground and reedy lagoons. These lagoons were covered with flocks of innumerable wild fowl. As we approached they rose and circled round our heads, forming thin, wavy lines like some huge aerial serpent. Troops of herons and flamingoes lined the banks, like regiments of grey and red-coated soldiers. We did not camp near the marsh for fear of malaria, but from our tents at nightfall we could distinctly hear the booming of the wild swans, the squeaking of the boouienkoosh, or " father of the pick," as the Moors in their absurd fashion call the snipe, and the hoarse murmur of cranes winging their way to the south. We had a short day's shooting in the marsh — simply for the pot, as we could not afford to waste our ammunition on mere amusement — and bagged several duck and widgeon. They tasted most delicious after the tough mutton, goat, and camel that had died a natural death, which had formed our staple fare till the last few days. The next morning we made an early start, intending to dispense with our usual I 114 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. noontide siesta and to travel all day so as to arrive before nightfall at the Zaouia Seedy Idrees. The heat and the roughness of the road, however, frustrated our endeavours, and we were compelled to pass a most uncomfortable night encamped in a stony waste, without water for ourselves or herbage for our animals. Before noon next day a few stunted palms came into view, and soon we saw the mud walls and battle- ments, with square towers of the same material at the angles and salient points, and two or three mosque towers, of a Moorish town. This was the kasbah, or fortress, of Seedy Idrees, the zaouia itself being a short distance away. Outside the gate of the kasbah we came on a knot of Moors, in the midst of whom was seated a big, burly mulatto of indescribably forbidding aspect. This, Ali told us, was the Sheikh Abd el Kreem. He was a man somewhat under the middle height, enormously broad-chested and corpulent withal, with a short thick neck like a bull's, set on between a pair of high square shoulders. His face was deeply pitted with smallpox, and wore an expression of ferocity, gluttony, and brute voluptuousness. He had a leer like a satyr, while a big scar over his left eye heightened the general sinister effect. On one of the Moors drawing his attention to us he rose and glared at us for about a minute. Being anxious to create a favourable impression on this truculent potentate, we had smartened ourselves up a bit for the occasion. We had donned our best riding:breeches, and, for the first time since leaving England, had indulged in the luxury of a shave. But our hopes of winning . THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. 115 the sheikh's good-will by the charm of our appear- ance were rudely dashed to the ground. " Lain el Sheitan ! curses be upon the Sheitan ! " he roared out with a voice like a bull of Bashan, at the same time spitting on the ground in a most offensive fashion. " Who are these, with bald, white chins like those of old and mangy camels, and tightly fitting garments about their legs ? In the name of Allah, let them be provided with raiment that their limbs may be suitably covered and that they put not the faces of our women to shame. And then let their heads be taken off, as a warning to all strangers who may be tempted to commit a similar indecency. There is but one God, and Mohammed is the Prophet of God." Urquhart, undismayed by his ferocious bluster, boldly approached and spoke as follows. " Peace be with you, O Sheikh. We are three strangers from the Belad el Rouui (land of the Europeans), journeying in search of a far-off country, and we crave your protection and hospitality." " That is no reason why ye should not cover your legs with proper raiment," retorted the sheikh, re- turning to the charge. "And what dog's son is this ? " he continued, as Ali, trembling all over, came timidly up behind Urquhart with the letter of introduction in his hand. " May his father's grave be eternally defiled ! " Ali replied in a low tone, and with head bent down submissively, " May your Highness's favour never diminish, and may the condescension of your Highness continue to shine upon his servant" (nice sort of condescension, thought I, to call a man a dog Ii6 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. and defile his father's grave). " Behold, I am less than dirt, but we are travellers from a distant country and crave leave to bask for a few days in the sunshine of your Highness's presence. These gentlemen" (point- ing to us) "have journeyed thus far to repose in the shadow of your protection. Good men are they, and true, men of ripe understanding, Avhose hands have gathered of the fruits of the tree of knowledge. Your servant is further charged by the Tajjer Abd er Rahman Sliman Embarek to deliver a letter into the hands of your Highness, and, having endeavoured faithfully to discharge his duty in the matter, your servant now begs your Highness to deign to accept the same." " A letter ! " exclaimed the sheikh. " By the beard of the Prophet, we do not often get letters in these parts. Show it me; in the name of the blessejl Moulai Idrees, let me see it." I could well imagine that the postman's knock sounded but rarely on the portals of the Zaouia Seedy Idrees, and that the arrival of a messenger charged with a missive from a distant country was regarded as an event of some importance. The sheikh, whose interest was now thoroughly aroused, took the precious document from Ali's hands, pressed it first to his lips and then to his forehead, and broke the seal. But an unlooked-for difficulty here arose. How were the contents to be deciphered ? The sheikh himself was guiltless of the art of reading, and his retainers like- wise. A consultation was held, and there was much knitting of eyebrows and wagging of heads, and staferallahing and hamdoollahing, till suddenly one of the Moors was struck with a bright idea. THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. 117 " Barikallah ! blessed be Allah ! " said he ; " I have it. Send for the Thaleb Mohammed." Thaleb Mohammed, a middle-aged man wearing an expression of fatuous solemnity, as became one credited with colossal erudition, soon arrived. I believe his reputation rested on the fact of his being able to read, or, more probably, to repeat by heart under pretence of reading, a few verses of the Koran. He took up the letter with an air of portentous wisdom, and, murmuring a prayer to Allah to clear his brain and enlighten his understanding, he set about the formidable task of spelling out its contents. He turned the document every way, upside down, sideways, wagged his head, and finally, muttering some- thing of which I could not catch the sense, he gave it up as a bad job. Briefly remarking that he was a ja,ckasS) and in all probability the father of the greater number of jackasses now existent, the sheikh ordered the un- fortunate thaleb to receive a hundred blows on the soles of his feet, in order,' as he said, to give him better understanding. In the end, the letter was handed to Ah to read, and the pains of Jehannum were invoked on his head if he did not do it correctly. " May I never see the blessed houris of Paradise," humbly ejaculated the Persian, " if I alter one single word, or attempt in any way (which would, indeed, be a foolish thing) to deceive the wisdom of your Highness." The letter commenced as follows : — " In the name of Allah, the All-Powerful, the Compassionate. The blessing of Allah be upon His holy Prophet Mohammed,, and upon all who walk in the right way. iiS THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. " From the Tajjer Abd er Rahman Sliman Embarek to the Sheikh Seedy Mohammed Barghash Abd el Kreem, greeting. The peace of Allah and Seedna Mohammed be upon our friends." The letter went on to say, after more oriental rig- marole, that three Nazarenes, and a certain Ali Abd el Ressool from the land of Iran, all friends of the writer, were setting forth upon a journey to the navel of the desert, and that the said four friends hoped, by the blessing of Allah and the aid of Moulai Idrees, to pass through the happy dominions under the benevo- lent sway of the Sheikh Abd el Kreem. The tajjer, therefore, begged the sheikh, for the love of Allah, and because of the friendship which subsisted between them, to be gracious to the Nazarenes and to afford them every assistance in his power. The peace. The sheikh's manner softened on hearing this letter read, and an expression almost approaching amiability crossed his ill-favoured countenance. " Mahhaba bik, you are welcome," said he ; " the friends of my friends are friends of mine. On my head be it to perform the wishes of the Tajjer Abd er Rhaman in this matter." As he spoke he seized Urquhart's hand and pressed his own to his heart and then on the top of his head. This last gesture signified that he took all our faults and trespasses on his own hand, which was very obliging of him, as, unless rumour and his looks greatly belied him, he had quite enough of his own to carry. " But why don't they cover their legs ? " said he, turning to Ali, and again harping on the old theme. "May it please your Highness," said Ali, "in the THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. 119 Belad el Roum it is not the custom for the people to wear the jellabia." " Holy Prophet ! do the Christian dogs, then, go about naked ? " " Allah forbid ! " returned the Persian ; " but the Oolad Ingleez (sons of the English) are a race of accomplished horsemen, and the steeds of that country are so fiery and untamed that no man may bestride them unless he has tight-fitting raiment on his legs." The sheikh replied, in effect, that he would rather be kicked off his horse than make an ass of himself by going about in such ridiculous and unbecoming attire. " But after all," he philosophically added, " what does it matter what the swine-eating infidels do .'' In any case, they and their fathers will burn eternally in Jehannum." The sheikh evidently considered that this clinched the matter and that further argument was useless, so, gathering up his garments and raising his portly person to its full height, and throwing his haik jauntily over his left shoulder, he waddled majestically towards the gate of the kasbah. Abd el Kreem, as we learned afterwards, was vastly proud of his personal appearance. His ambition was to be considered " the glass of fashion and the mould of form," the " Kreem de la Kreem," to quote Gerald's vile pun, of the manhood of Seedy Idrees ; and he was always surrounded by a band of sycophants who pandered to his vanity. These were never tired of applying to him the epithet of " moon-faced," which was appropriate only in so far that his countenance possessed, not only the rotundity, but also the eruptive surface peculiar to that orb. Being of I20 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. the lineage of the Prophet, he wore the green robe of the shereefs, and was reverenced by all the Moors as a saint. It was only natural that they should pay this honour to a person possessing so peculiarly iniquitous a character as the sheikh, since, next to idiocy, that is the best passport to canonization in Marocco. Seekers after a sign of his mission were referred to a large wart on his nose as proof positive of his being one chosen by Allah ; and no sceptic was found so hardened as not to be convinced by this irrefragable evidence. He was the Marabout of the neighbouring zaouia, which dignity, and the emolu- ments attaching thereto, he had inherited from a long line of ancestors. Needless to say that he made a good thing out of it. His blessing was a marketable commodity, the price varying according to the means of the person blessed. Pieces of cloth from his old jellabias, and even the parings of his nails and the trimmings of his beard fetched money as talismans against the evil eye and other misfortunes. Strings of beads, which had been worn round his sanctified neck, were in great request as rosaries, but perhaps the sale of relics and charms formed the most profit- able part of his business, " A questionable kind of saint," the reader will say ; yet I am not sure that the Christian calendar could not furnish parallels with scarcely moEe enviable records. By permission of Abd el Kreem, we lived in our tents outside the walls, thereby avoiding the discom- forts of Moorish houses and the evil odours of the town. Thanks chiefly to Abd er Rhaman's letter, and to Ali's skill in deciphering it, we were treated with every consideration. Plenteous mona, or gifts of THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. 121 provisions, were provided for ourselves and our servants, and a guard of warriors armed with match- locks was told off for our protection. Nevertheless, we were anxious not to waste more time in the place than was absolutely necessary. Our chief aim was to obtain, if possible, some reliable' information as to the existence and whereabouts of the Djebel Kebcer. Legend was rife, as Urquhart had told us in the smoking-room of Inverfechan, concerning it and the race of holy Marabutin who dwelt at its base, and the wonders the latter worked. Not a soul, however, seemed to possess any definite knowledge on the subject. It was further rumoured" that gold in abundance was to be found along the banks of a river which, taking its rise somewhere in the moun- tain, flowed thence out into the desert ; but no man had ever seen this river. A band of adventurous Moors, it was said, attracted by the prospect of finding gold, had set out many moons ago across the desert ; but they had never been heard of since, and it was supposed that they had all perished on the way. The existence of the Djebel Kebeer, we observed, was universally believed in ; but no one seemed to have the haziest notion of its locality, further than that it lay somewhere to the south in the Sahara, and many days' journey distant from the Zaouia Seedy Idrees. In addition to this difficulty of getting any reliable information, a new and unexpected obstacle to our departure arose in the shape of a sudden whim of the sheikh's. Our fear had been lest we should find his hostility a bar to our enterprise, and, knowing the suspicion and dislike with which the natives as a 122 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. rule regard foreign travellers, we little imagined that any trouble could arise from his taking too great a fancy to us. Yet this was what actually happened. He was by no means pleased to see us at first, and, as the reader will remember, expressed his sentiments concerning us in no measured terms. In his case, however, as in many others, intercourse broke down the barrier which barbarism and bigotry interposes between men of different race and creed. As he saw more of us his aversion gradually lessened, and, to our surprise and not unqualified delight, finally turned into a positive liking. He seemed to take a particular fancy to Gerald, and lost no opportunity of making himself agreeable to him. The upshot of it all was that when we expressed a desire to start on our journey and mooted the question of camels and other equipment, he positively refused to let us go. So obstinate did he show himself on the point, that we judged it wise to let the matter rest for awhile. Meanwhile, our stay was made as pleasant for us as possible, and everything was done to show the esteem in which the sheikh held us. We were actually honoured one day by an invitation from Mrs. Abd el Kreem, who, enamoured either of Urquhart's whiskers or, more probably, Gerald's fair hair and winning smile, requested us to take afternoon tea, or, as the French would say, to " fivocloquer," with her at four o'clock. It was impossible to refuse, so, donning our smartest attire, and putting our best leg forward, we presented ourselves at the appointed hour at the door of the sheikh's mansion. He received us graciously in person, and, invoking the peace of Allah on our heads, assured us that, once having passed his THE SHEIKH ABD EL KREEM. 123 threshold and eaten of his bread, we were his father, mother, brother, and all the rest of his relations, and that everything he possessed was ours. So saying, he led the way across the tesselated court and under the portico, leaving in his train a strong odour of garlic, which, in a holy man who was supposed to daily hold converse with angels and other spiritual beings, was highly improper.^ Passing through a narrow door, we found ourselves in a cosy inner apartment spread over with rich Rabat rugs, and surrounded by a low divan. At one end of this divan there reclined a portly middle-aged dame, with a hook-nose and a swarthy complexion and large black eyes of singular brightness, who was presented to us as the sheikh's head wife. I was somewhat surprised at our being introduced in this fashion to the interior of a Mussulman's household ; but, as a matter of fact, the country Moors are far less particular about secluding their women than those of the towns. Anyhow, Mrs. Abd el Kreem seemed delighted to see us, paying particular atten- tion, I observed, to Gerald. Indeed, Urquhart and myself were at first not a little astonished at the way in which both she and her spouse combined to do him honour, but after tea the secret of their attentions came out. A matrimonial scheme was on foot between them, of which poor Gerald was the intended victim. Tea was served in the usual Moorish fashion with cakes and sweetmeats, and, when we had swallowed the three cups prescribed by native eti- ' The saints of the East are expected to follow the example of their master TNIohammed, and to abstain from onions and garlic for fear ()f giving offence to good spirits who hold communion with them. 124 THE BRETHREN OF MOUNT ATLAS. quette, the sheikh introduced in a characteristically blunt fashion the subject nearest to his heart. " Behold, O Nazarenes," said he, addressing us collectively, but meanin