DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY ■ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/cambriantravelle01nich (Tv^- THE CAMBRIAN T1AV JE UL E tt’S GUIDE, IN EVERY DIRECTION; containing REMARKS MADE DURING MANY EXCURSIONS, IN THE PRINCIPALITY OF WALES, AND BORDERING DISTRICTS, augmented by EXTRACTS FROM THE BEST WRITERS. SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED. STO UR PORT: PRINTED BY THE EDITOR, AND PU3LISIIED for him by LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME k BROWN; SHERWOOD, NEELY, & JONES ; and B. k R. CROSBY & Co.; LONDON. 1613. CEntnxo at Stationers’ IpatL PREFACE. r r -W r-r- £ present work originated in a com¬ pilation which I made for my own use, and which I enlarged by way of amuse¬ ment. At that time every tourist in Wales found either the inconvenience of convey¬ ing and referring to many volumes, or the want of a guide in every direction from a single book. My fellow-travellers perceiving the advantages of my manu¬ script guide, urged me to publish it. To supply such desideratum has therefore been attempted in the present work. I have carefully traced the steps of all the most popular tourists, and availed myself of their labours; nor have I rested here, but corrected my former stock of matter, and made considerable additions. Yet, notwithstanding the pains which I have taken, more imperfections than I am a- ware of may probably be found. I have endeavoured to comprise a larger portion of information in a small compass than has hitherto appeared, and avoided through¬ out to make use of the productions of others without acknowledgment. I am thankful for the liberal notices which have been given of the former edition, by sever, al journalists. (See the British Critic, July 1809; Monthly Review, Feb. 1810; Ec¬ lectic Review, April 1809; European Magazine, Jan. 1809 ; Literary Panorama, Feb. 1809.) Encouraged by their candour, I have laboured to render the present edition more complete. I have also re¬ ceived assistances, communicated in the kindest manner, by several travellers; particularly by W. Withering, esq., of Birmingham, who took the first edition in his hand, through an extensive tour in North Wales, and favoured me with nu¬ merous corrections and additions. I shall continue to attend to the improvement of this work ; and therefore should consider myself much obliged by further commu¬ nications. At the head of each division, in the following pages, are references to the places whence the different tourists, whose productions have been consulted, came ; and at the end of each division are noted the places to which they passed. The distances, in miles, have been given, and a map is now added. From the present arrangement, the tourist may perceive the tracks that have been purused, from which he may either be directed into the path most congenial to his pursuits, or may discover others, perchance, more curious and in¬ viting. It is observable that the present edition is printed upon a larger paper than the last, and therefore more bulky, but it was not possible to compress it into a smaller compass without rendering it less useful. The back margin is, however, narrow, and the other larger margins will be valuable to many for making remarks ; on the contrary, those who wish for a smaller size, may direct the binder to re¬ duce them. I hope the important addi¬ tions which have been made, will more than compensate for the enlargement of the bulk and proportionate price. The historical parts are condensed, as much as possible: for more enlarged details, Caradoc of Llancarfon, by Wynne ; Ender- bie, Lhuyd, Warrington, and other authors, may be consulted. The biography has been confined chiefly to anecdote, for the sake of breaking the monotony of names and admeasurements. For the roads, it will be necessary to refer both to the place we are quitting and that to which we are going: for instance; being at Dolgelley and wishing to proceed to Towyn ; under the former place a very brief account of the road is given, but on referring to Towyn an enlarged description may be found. My attention has been principally paid to whatever is singular or uncommon, in the scenery and natural and artificial curiosi¬ ties of the principality; comprehending his¬ tories and descriptions of the cities, towns, villages,castles,palaces, mansions, abbeys, churches, mountains, rocks, waterfalls, ferries, bridges, vallies, passes, Sic., ar¬ ranged in alphabetical order. Also, dew scriptions of what is remarkable in the in- y PREFACE. termcdiate places, as inns, solitary houses, forts, encampments, walls, ancient roads, caverns, rivers, aqueducts, lakes, forests, woods, fields of battle, islets, cromlechs, carnedds, tumuli, pillars, druidic circles, works of iton, tin, copper, &c. Theroads are described, the distances given, and the district routes of Aikin, Barber, Bingley, Coxe, Donovan, Evans, Fenton, Gilpin, Hutton, Lipscomb, Malkin, Manby, Pen¬ nant, Skrine, Warner, and Wyndham, are preserved. The whole interspersed with natural history, botany, mineralogy, and remarks on the manners and customs. yi manufactories, and agriculture of the in¬ habitants. The completion of a Caledonian Guide, on the present plan, which I prom¬ ised some time since, has been retarded by the attention which this edition required, while passing through the press. Con¬ siderable labour has however already been bestowed on that design, and the work is advancing by the rigid application of a part of every day to this pursuit. Stourport, George Nicholson. October, 1813. MODES OF TRAVELLING. The plan which Mr. Malkin adopted was that of walking; but he says, “ I took a servant on horseback, for the conveyance of books as well as necessaries, without which convenience, almost every advan- tageofapedestrian is lost, excepteconomy, and that is completely frustrated by so expensive an addition.” Warner made lus tours entirely on foot, and carried his own necessaries. He appears to have often walked .30 miles each day. Walking can only be pleasing to those who have been accustomed to that exercise, and when not limited to time. He who takes a horse and saddle-bags, has certainly much the advantage of a pedestrian in most situa¬ tions ; he passes over uninteresting tracts with celerity; surveys, at ease, the attrac¬ tions of both near and distant objects, and is received with more cordiality at the inns. The latter, tho’ he be at liberty to scram¬ ble up a mountain or a rock, has to suffer more from that addition to his common fatigue. ’T is true that he can step aside to botanize and examine the beauties of nature and art, in situations where a horse would be an incumbrance; walking can also be engaged in whenever a person is ready to start, and is the most independent mode of passing on ; but when he arrives wet and weary, at an inn, at ten at night, he has sometimes to suffer the mortifica¬ tion of being received with coldness, treat¬ ed with subordinate accommodations, if not refused admittance; obliged, perhaps, to accept the necessaries of a mere public house; or proceed further. Dr. Mavor says, “ The comforts of a carriage are scarcely compensated for, when the nu¬ merous inconveniences are taken into the account. The most independent way of travelling is certainly on foot; but as few have health and strength for an under¬ taking of this kind, the most pleasant and satisfactory way of making a tour, is undoubtedly upon a safe and quiet horse, adapted to the country through which we are to pass. I would therefore ad¬ vise persons who intend traversing Wales, to perfoim that part of the journey which lies through England in regular stages, and to purchase a sure-footed welsh poney, as soon as they enter the country. They may thus gain time for their researches in the principality, and be exempted from the delays and fatigues incident to any other plan of journeying.” Dr. Mavor travelled in an open carriage and 2 horses, in company with a female friend, and two gentlemen, but he does not describe the vehicle further. In his remarks, however, at Corwen, he says, “ we were assembled and ready to start; and tho’ at six o’clock, a crowd was gathered round our carriage, as usual, admiring it’s singular construc¬ tion. I have not often noticed this cir¬ cumstance; but it was a source of con¬ tinual amusement to us in every place through which we passed, because it a- mused others.” The editor has hitherto travelled on foot, but he has been, like oth¬ ers, subjected to some unpleasant re¬ buffs, as atMALLWYD. The principal ob¬ jection to walking which he can make, is that of carrying the luggage of a change or two of linen and stockings, a small compass, a prospective glass, Hull’s Pock¬ et Flora, a portable press for dry ing plants til this interleaved Guide, a drinking horn, and occasionally some provision more sa¬ vory or palatable than a penny roll. Where a guide is employed he will generally re¬ lieve you from the incumbrance of such a package, but the most desirable mode of travelling is certainly upon a strong little horse which you may relieve by walking at intervals. The compiler once met in Cwm glas, a party of four gentlemen on foot, whom a little boy followed upon a small poney, with the joint conveniences of each, in a large wallet; but then how rarely can two persons be found, whose pursuits are similar, and whose desires are alike ! The chance of four being so agreed is proportionably more uncertain. Walk¬ ing becomes exceedingly painful when blisters upon the feet result from this ex¬ ercise. But this inconvenience may be prevented by wearing strong, pliant and easy shoes, or those which are made from 2 lasts to theshape of the feet, as described viil by Camper ; by wearing fine soft flannel or woollen socks next to the skin, and by washing the feet with water before going to bed. If, for want of such precautions, blisters should arise, let out the serum with a needle, without breaking the skin, bathe the part with equal quantities of vinegar and luke-warm water, and apply a thin liniment of wax and oil, with a little sugar of lead ; some apply a compress of brandy, with an equal quantity of vinegar of lead, and anoint with oil. See also advice to those who ascend mountains, col. 1200. “ I would strongly recommend it,” says Mr. Malkin,” to the traveller of curiosity and leisure, who may take the direct route from England, east and west, to begin with Rumney, from the sea to it’s source; then adhering to that method, to pursue the banks of each river as far as they will lead him with tolerable convenience, the regular chain of which a good map will point out.” WELSH PRONUNCIATION. OE THE SOUNDS OF WELSH LETTERS. A is pronounced like that of the English short or open a. as in man, bar, glass : and when circumflexed, as a in dame, pale; so that the words car, dar, arc pronounced like care, dare ; never soft as in able, stable. B as bEnglish; mutable into f and m, as bara, bread, ei fara, his bread, fy mara, my bread. C is always like k in English ; or as C in can, come; never as in yity, yistern. It is mutable, as car, a friend, ei char, her friend, ci gar, his friend, fy nghar, my friend. Ch is like the x of the Spanish, the ch of the Germans, the jjof the Greek. It is pronounced by the contact of the tongue, and the palate, about the eighth of an inch farther back than when k is expressed. D is English; but mutable into dd and n as Duw, God, ie Dduw, his God, fy Nuw, my God. Dd as soft th, as in thus, this, that, neither. E as the English short e in men, ten, bed ; if circumflexed as a soft, in dame, came, ale; thus, ced, advantage, is pronounced as if written kadc: Eu, dipthong, as ei english; as beudy, a cowhouse, pro¬ nounced as beidy. F as v English ; as gof, a smith, pronounc¬ ed as gov. Ff as f English, in fetch. G as g English in go, give, leg, peg, never soft as in gem. In composition it is dropped, as gwr, a man, yr hen wr, the old man ; glan, the bank of a river, ar y lan, upon the bank; glan, cledn, dil- lad lan, clean clothes; garth a hill, ar arth, upon a hill, pen yr arth, the top of the hill. It is mutable into ng and w; as gwas, a servant, fy ngwas, my ser¬ vant, ei was, his servant. H as in English, an aspiration or breathing. I as the English ee in bee, tree, or i in rich, ring; cil, a retreat is pronounced keel; never as in bind, kind. K is not a welsh letter. L as in law, love, low. LI is 1 aspirated, a sound peculiar to the welsh language, like the English lh. It is pronounced by placing the tip of the tongue a little farther back against the roof of the mouth than for 1, and breath¬ ing through the jaw teeth on both sides'. WELSH PRONUNCIATION. x Llangollen is pronounced Lhangothlcn. The English 1 in let, when forcibly spok¬ en, is near to it. In composition the 11 is expressed by the single 1, a llaw, a hand, ei law, his hand. M as m English ; mutable into f, as mam, a mother, ei fam, his mother, pronounc¬ ed as if written vam; maen, a rock, ei faen, his rock. N as n english. O as o in go, no, lot; when circumflexed, o in bone, and note; thus modd, a mode, or form, is pronounced mooth. P as p English. Fh as ph English, as in philosophy, physic, &c. The true difference betwixt ff and ph is, that we write with ff either such words as are purely british, as ffbn, a staff; ffau, a den ; ffordd, a way; ffe- laig, a chieftain, a prince : or such words as are derived from latin words written with F, as fFydd, faith ; ffynnon, a foun¬ tain ; ffurf, a form; ffenestr, a window; perffaith, perfect; but we write with ph either such british words as have the radical p changed into the aspirate ph, as tri-phen, three heads; from pen, a head. It is muable into b, mh, and ph, as pen, a head; ei ben, his head; fy itthen, my head; ei phen, her head. Q not a welsh letter. In words taken from the English, it is expressed by cw as cwestiwn, from question. R in the middle or end of words, as r Eng¬ lish; but rh, in all cases is the radical; mutable into r ; as rhad, grace, dy rad, thy grace. S as in English. T as in English; but mutable into d, nh, and th; as tad, a father, ei dad, his father, fy nhad, my father, ei th&d, her father. Th, which is a mutation of t, as in the English words thank, both, nothing, never as in them. U as English, in busy, and of i in the words sin, skin, thin, bliss; if circumflexed, as ee in queen, green ; thus, du, black, is pronounced as if written deejsul, the sun, as seel; sur, sour, as seer. The word un, one, is pronounced een. V not a welsh letter, but f has the same sound. W as o in the words bone, sore; if cir¬ cumflexed as oo in hook, food, boot; thus, cwd, a bag, pronounced kood, mwg, smoke, as moog. X not a welsh letter : in writing foreign words ecs is used, as Ecsodus, i. e. Exodus. Y in any syllable, except the last, is pro* nounced as u inrun, churn, hunt; in the last syllable of a word, as i in din, fin, sin ; also in monosyllables, except the following; y, ydd, yn, fy, dy, myn, which have the sound of u in run. When y is circumflexed it has the same sound as u, thus byd, the world, is pronounced beed. These two sounds are exempli¬ fied in the word sundry. Z is not a welsh letter. The accent is, in all Welsh words, either on the last, or penultima syllable; never on the antepenultima: but it is much more frequently on the penultima; and when on the last, it is a circumflex. The variation of the initial letters is al¬ ways regular, and constantly betwixt let¬ ters of the same organ of pronunciation; for a labial letter is never changed to a dental, nor a dental to a labial, Jcc. Ad¬ verbs being formed of adjectives, become such, by putting yn in opposition to the adjectives, which change their mutable initial consonants, into their soft; as da, (adjective) good; yn dda, (adverb) well; mwyn, (adj.) kind; yn fwyn, (adv.) kind¬ ly. Initial vowels are also capable of oc¬ casional changes. Some of changing one vowel into another; asaberth, a sacrifice, pi. ebyrth ; attal, to stop; ettyl, he will stop, &c. And all, of taking the aspirate h before them after the pronoun sing. Ei, when of the feminine gender; and the pi. pronouns eu, their ; and ein, our; and the affix’m ; as, oedran, age; ei hodran, her age ; amser, time ; eu hamser, their time; anadl, breath ; ein hanadl, our breath ; Arglwydd, Lord; i’m Harglwydd, to my Lord, &c. to which rule dipthongs are also subject; as eiddo, one’s own; ei heiddo, her own, &c. In seeking for words in a dictionary, the reader should always turn to them in their primary or radical initials*—Richards’s Welsh Gram¬ mar. GLOSSARY of Words which most frequently occur in the Construction of Welsh Names of Places. Aber, the fall of a lesser water into a Dol, a holme, a meadow. greater. Afon, a river. Al, power; very; most. Allt, the side of a hill, a woody cliff. Ar, upon ; bordering. Aren, a high place, an alp. Bach, little; small. Ban, high ; lofty; tall. Banau, eminences. Bedd, a grave, a sepulchre. Bettws, a station, a place between hill and vale. Blaen, the end or extremity. Bod, an abode, a dwelling. Bon, the base. Braich, an arm. Bron, a breast, a swell. Bryn, a mount or hill. Bwlch, a hollow, a break. Bychan, little, fem. Bechan ; if following a vowel, Fechan. Cad, defending. Cader, a fortress, or strong hold, a chair. Cae, a hedge, a field. Caer, a wall or mound for defence; a fort; a city. Cantref, a division of a county. Capel, a chapel. Cam, a prominence, a heap. Carnedd, a heap of stones. Carreg, a stone. Cefn, the hack ; the upper side; a ridge. Cerreg, stones. Castell, a castle, a fortress. Cil, a retreat, a back, a recess. Ciliau, recesses. Clawdd, a dike, ditch, or trench. Clogwen, a precipice. Coch, red. Coed, a wood. Cors, a bog. Corfydd, bogs. Craig, a rock. Creigiau, rocks. Croes, a cross. Cwm, a dale, or glen. Cymmer, a confluence. De, the south. Dau, two. Dinas, a city, a fortified hill. Du, black. Dwr, fluid, water. Drvvs, a door, a pass. Dyfryn, a valley, or plain. Eglwys, a church. Er w, a slang of arable land; an acre. Esgair, a long ridge. Fynnon, a well or spring. Gaer, see caer. Galt, a woody cliff. Gaith, a mountain, or hill, that bends. Gelli, the grove. Gian, a brink, a side, or shore. Glas, blue; grey; green; verdant. Glyn, glen, a valley. Gwaelod, a bottom. Gwern, a watery meadow. Gwydd, wood, woody ; or wild. Gwyn, white, fair, clear. Hafod, a summer dwelling. Hen, old. Hendref, the old residence. Hir, long. Is, lower, inferior. Isaf, lowest. Le, a'place. Llan, a church, an enclosure. Llech, a flat stone, or flag ; a smooth cliff, Llwyd, grey, hoary, brown. Llwyn, a wood or grove. Llyn, a lake, a pool. Llyr, the sea, water. Llys, a palace, hall or court. Mach, a place of security. Maen, a stone. Maenor, a manor. Maes, a field. Mall, bad, rotten. Mawr, great, large. Melin, a mill. Moel, fair, naked, bald. Monad, an isolated situation. Morfa, a sea marsh. Mynach, a monk. xiil Mvnydd, a mountain. Nant, a brook, river, ravine, glen. Newydd, new, fresh. Or, border, the edge. Pant, a hollow. Pen, a head, top, or end. Penmaen, the stone end. Pentref, a village, a suburb. Pistyll, a spout or cataract. Plas, a hall. Pont, a bridge. Porlh,agate. Pwll, a ditch, a pit. Rhaiadyr, a cataract. Rhi w, an ascent. Rhos, a moist plain or meadow. Rhudd, red. Rhyd, a ford. Sarn, a causeway, sec 707. GLOSSARY. Tafarn, a tavern. Tal, s. the head, the front. Tal, a. towering. Tan, spreading. Tir, the earth, land. Tomen, a mound. Traeth, a sand. Tref or Tre, a house, a home* Tri, three. Troed, a foot. Trwyn, a point. Twr, a tower. Ty, a house. Tyddyn, a farm. Tyn, a stretch. Tywyn, a strand. Uwch, upper, higher. Uchaf, highest. Y, of, on the. Ym, in or by. Yn, in, at. Ynys, an island. I xix a a a .a .a .a ana a The names of places occurring in the text, distinguished by small capitals, may be found with more enlarged description in the general alphabetic arrangement, those in italics, of inferior note, are referred to from the index. ABBREVIATIONS. m. miles, f. furlongs. r. and 1. right and left of the road. n. North, s. South, e. East, w. West, also northern, northwards, &c. 1 From Port Penrhyn, 5 miles, Aikin; Evans. -Llanfair Vechan, 2 miles, Bingley. - Conway,8miles, Hutton; Skrine. - Penmaehmawr, 3 miles, Skrine. - Llandygia, 3^ miles, Pennant. ABER, or the confluence, (called Abcr- gwyngregin, from the quantity of cockles found there) is a pleasing little village nearly equi-distant from the royal houses of Aberffraw and Mcasmynnan, where the welsh princes had a temporary residence, adjoining an artificial mount called the Mwd. At the inn here, tho’ apparently respectable, there is no post horses. It is a convenient place whence he ascend the summit of Penmean-mawr. This is one of the Ferries to Anglesea. When the tide is out, the Lacan S anils are dry for 4 miles, over which the passenger has to walk to the channel where the ferry-boat plies. As the sand frequently shifts, this walk is dangerous. Yet many ate under the ne¬ cessity of adventuring, and the large bell of Aber is rung constantly during foggy weather, to direct those coming from the island, by it’s sound. From this village a deep and romantic glen, in length nearly two miles, is the avenue to a celebrated cataract at it’s extremity, called Rhiader Maw, falling over a tremendous slate rock, called Maes y Gaer, by a double fall, the lowest of which may be 50 feet. Plants. Festuca rubra, and ASnanthe pim- pinelloides, on the salt marsh near. Sax- ifraga stellaris, among rocks near the foot ABER. 2 of the waterfall; Scdum refiexum, on walls and roofs of cottages near the village. Upon the artificial mount, near the village called the Mwd, once stood a Castle, the palace of Llewelyn a]> Gnjffycld, prince of Wales. The vestiges of the moat and it’s feeder from the river yet remain. At the siege of Montgomery, in the reign of Hen¬ ry the third, Llewelyn was so successful as to take William dc Brens, a potent bar¬ on, prisoner, whom he conducted to his castle at Aber. In this situation a friend¬ ship took place between the captive; (who is said to have been accomplished and beautiful) and his victor. It unfor¬ tunately happened, however, that the princess of Wales commiserated the situa¬ tion of De Breos, and was so much won by his manners and address, that a clan¬ destine intimacy took place between them. At length, a ransom liberated the knight from his captivity. Soon after, facts of inconstancy and intrigue on the part of the princess, and deceit on the part of the captive friend, being discovered, Llewel¬ yn solicited from the knight the favour of a visit, to which he unsuspectingly ac- ceeded. He was once more in the power of Llewelyn, who cast off the character of friend and assumed that of the fiend. By Llewelyn’s orders the Knight was cast in¬ to a dungeon, and a gallows erected on a small eminence in the dell, about UK) yardsbelow the castle, on which De Breos 3 ABER. 4 suffered death, thevictim oflreachciy and of love. Yet did not the barbarity of Llewelyn end here, the ultimatum re¬ mained, with which he intended to glut his revenge. While the knight hung, Llewelyn took the princess to a window, from which was a full view of the gal¬ lows. Approaching, he sarcastically smiled, and asked what she would give lor a sight of her lover. At the neigh¬ bouring cottages, near the foot of this mount, tradition retains Llewelyn’s ques¬ tion and the lady’s answer in Welsh. In English thus, “Lovely piincess,” said Llewelyn, “ what will you give to see your Willim 1” “ Wales and England and Llewelyn, I’d freely give to see my Willim.” Upon a mountain, about 4 miles south of Llewelyn’s castle, in a field called Car Gwillim Ddu, is an artificial cave, where William de Breos, was interred. This melancholy occurrence happened in 1229. The frail princess was Juan Plantage.net, daughter of King John. Except in this unfortunate affection for De Breos, she had passed a life of prudence, lived on friendly terms with her husband, and was an amiable woman. She survived this catastrophe eight years, and was interred agreeably to her own request, in the mon¬ astery of the Dominican friars, at Llanfaes, near Beaumaris. Llewelyn erected amo- nument over her, and died in the year 1240. Elis son afterwards married De Breos’s daughter. The remains of the lady of Llewelyn was suffered to lie 293 years, till Elenry the 8 th, “ who may just¬ ly be charged with murdering the living, and selling the dead,” disposed of the monastery to one of his courtiers; when the church was converted into a barn, in which state it still remains. The ferocity of the times ejected Joan from her little tenement. Her coffin of stone was plac¬ ed in a small brook, and for 250 years, was occupied as a watering-trough forthe farmers’ horses. Lord Bulkley recently rescued it from it’s degraded station and ordered it to be laid upside down at liar- on-hil.l, near the hall. The sides, ends, and bottom are about four inches thick. From the cavity within, the princess ap¬ pears to have been about five feet six or seven inches high; 16 inches over the shoulders, and 9 inches deep in the chest. “ In 1643, sir John Owen, of Clenennau, was Beseiging general Mytton in the cas¬ tle of Caernarvon, but, hearing that the colonels Carter and Twisleton were on their march to relieve it, he left the town with adetachmcntofhistroops, and, meet¬ ing them on Talar Mr, near Aber, was de¬ feated and taken prisoner, but was after, wards saved by through the interposition and generosity of general Ireton, Crom¬ well's son in law, tho’ his fellow prison¬ ers, the duke of Hamilton and lord Hol¬ land, were both executed. Sir John was a descendant from Hwfa ap Cynddelw, lord of Llifon, great steward of N. Wales, con¬ temporary with Owen Gwynedd, and founder of one of the 15 tribes. It was the high and peculiar privilege of this chieftain and his heirs, to place the coro¬ net upon the prince’s head, after his in¬ auguration by his first chaplain, the Bish¬ op of Bangor; his place of residence was Presaddfed, 5th in descent, and from his eldest son was the famous Huxuel y Ped- olau, (or of the horse-shoes) so called from his being able to straighten horse shoes with the bare hands.”—R. Lloyd. On the way to Penmaen Mawr, the small village and church of Llanvair Vechan is passed, after which that vast promontory, rising abruptly, like the rock of Gibraltar, from the ocean, is present¬ ed in tremendous majesty. While at Aber, Mr. Bingley pursued the banks of the stream, in search of the wa¬ terfall, before-mentioned, distant 2 miles. About half way is a bridge over which the road leads to Caer lihun and the vale of Conwy. A little beyond, taking a view down the vale, he found a most charming landscape. Following still the course of the streams, he soon reached lihaiader Mawr, the Great Cataract, a fall of about 60 feet, it’s character simple, yet grand. To Penmean Mawr, 3 miles, Aikiri; J. Evans. — Llandygai, 3^ miles,Bingley. — Bangor, miles, Ilutton; Skrine. — Llanvair Vechan, 2 milts, Pennant. 5 ABEREARON. 6 ran, 23 miles, Barber; Skrine. - Aberystwith, 15 miles, Warner. -Cardigan, 22 miles,Wyndham. - Lambeder, 15 miles, Lipscomb. ABEREARON, in Cardiganshire, is < neat little village near the sea-shore, pleas' ingly situated at the mouth of the river Aeron, and much frequented by shipping. Near it’spicturesque bridge there is amore comfortable inn than might be expected in so retired a situation, and the only tol¬ erable one between Cardigan and Aber- ystwith. From this place the road, bor¬ dering the sea-shore, becomes more lev¬ el, and soon introduces the fragments of Castell Cadwgan, from the King of that name, who erected it in 1148 ; and there arc two farms almost adjoining it, called Cilgwgm fawr, and Cilgwgan fach. The bar at the entrance of the harbour, is dry at low water. The greater part of this cas¬ tle appears to have been washed away by the action of the sea. This fort was prob¬ ably erected by the Normans to cover their landing or retreat, when in the reign of William Rufus, they fitted out a fleet, and, descending on the coast of Cardigan¬ shire, conquered or ravaged the maritime country to a considerable distance. The tourist of the “ Modern Travels,” says, “ The little Inn here is kept by a ver- y sensible and civil woman of the name Felix, who obligingly furnished me in writing with a few colloqual phrases and forms of salutation in welsh. The situa¬ tion of her house is delightful. The road to Aberystwith takes the di¬ rection of thecoast, which generally forms a bold outline with occasional promonta- ries and bays. In ascending a long hill coasting vessels may generally be seen to the left, From this point too, the moun¬ tains in North Wales shew their gigantic heads. Cadcr Idris is often distinctly seen, and the nearer Plinlimmon. The former m3y easily be distinguished by it’s long ridge, somewhat resembling the back of a horse, the latter by it’s 2 conic points. The road inclining from the sea, presents a tract destitute of trees, but producing good barley, oats, and some wheat. The soil is loamy, with a substratum of slate. The prevailing manure is sea-weed. The highest part of this road commands a sea¬ scape over the whole bay of Cardigan. The natives here will tell you of a well inhabited country, extending far into the irish sea, which has been swept away by gradual encroachments: of it’s 100 towns, of which a few poor villages only remain. Returning to the cross road from Cardigan pursue it to the 1. crossing the river Ae¬ ron. The inn is upon the opposite side. At a mile distance pass the farm Cilgwgan fach ; soon after cross a brook at another farm called Cilgwgan fawr. On the r. is Llanddewi Aberarth , a village on the banks of the river Arth, where it falls into the sea. The Churc h is a good building, con¬ sisting of a nave, chancel, and lofty tower, dedicated to St. David, with some monu¬ ments to the Jones’s of Tyglyn. At Aber¬ arth, the 2d mile cross the river. Half a mile farther a road on the r. leads to Llan- badarn Trefeglwt/s ; called also llanbadarn vach, in contradistinction to Llanbadern vawr. The Church is dedicated to St. Padern, and a vicarage, presented by the bishop of St. Davids, it consists simply of a nave and chancel, and contains a monu¬ ment to Hugh Lloyde. About the 4th mile lies the Black Rock. A mile further on the 1. is Aberlon, stationed at the mouth of a stream, and the road passes through the hamlet of Llanon, near the same place, where are the remainsof it’s ancient chap¬ el, dedicated to St. Non. At the 6th mile is Llunsanlfraid, delightfully situated on the sea-side. The church is dedicated to St. Fraid Leian, daughter of Cadwrthai of Ireland, and built in the pointed style. In the interior are the remains of an old screen, and the font is similar to that at Hen fynyw. This is a vicarage, in the gift of the bishop of St. Davids. Leland says, “ There is a chirch caullid Lansan- fridc vii miles from Aberustwith upper to Cardigan on the se side, and then hath been great building.” Tanner says, that there was an abbey and nunnery at Llan- sanfrede in Cardiganshire. At the 7th mile is Llanrhystydd , from St. Rhystia, to whom the church is dedicated ; he was sometime bishop of Caerleon on Usk. This village stands upon the banks of the river Wirrai. Both Leland and Tanner, have mentioned a nunnery as being here, but the least traces of such a building are not visible. This place was destroyed in ABEREARON. 8 the year 988 by the Danes, who commit- tary stream which falls into the Ystwith ted great havoc in S. Wales. Castell Rhus beyond a mill at the 14th mile. The man- stands in the estate of J. Lloyd, esq. of Ma- sion is a handsome structure and stands bus. In this parish ts a dreary morass, beautifully embosomed in a fine wood called Rhcs y mhmiog. The Church is an In the dining-room and gallery are many ancient budding, consisting of a tower, family portraits, and 3 or 4 excellent (the top of which has fallen) a nave, chan- Flemish paintings. Within a mile of cel, and porch, with some remains of an Aberystwithon the 1. are the remains of a ornamented screen. Half a m. further is british camp called Penydinas. On the Moel Ivor formerly the residence of 2 an- summit two encampments are discerna- cientfamilcs, the Gwynes and Philipses, ble, one square the other circular. It descended, by marriage, to the Saun- Advancing about 2 miles, on a gentle derses of Pentre, in Pembrokeshire; the eminence, in a field to the left of the road. present proprietor is David Davies, m. n. of Caermarthen, who married the surviv¬ ing heiress of this house, the great gran- daughter of the last Gwyne of Moel Ivor. It is situated on the side of a hill, and lienee named Moel y vawr. This place is supposed by some to be the same as Llanrhystyd Castle, mentioned by Powel which stood opposite the present house, on the other side of the valley. It was tak¬ en down in the reign of Elizabeth, about 1567, by Jenkin Gwyne and a large man¬ sion erected where the present stands, which having been neglected, owing to the family residence being chiefly on the Caermarthenshire estate, it was taken downabout theyearl787,and the existing farm-house erected. One mile beyond is Bryn ffosydd, and a little further a road to the r. leads to the village of Ilanddeiniol, the church of which stands upon the brow of a hill, a small ancient building, consist¬ ing simply of a nave, but it is separated so as to form a chancel by a double screen. The arches are of the pointed kind, flat¬ tened. The screen had a gallery over it. At the 9th mile is Spite, a public-house. At the 11 ^ is Tyny rhos and Y Gaer fauir. At the 12th mile is Chancery, and on the left, close to the sea is Morva, formerly called Morva bychan, the residence of Miss Hughes. At the 13 mile on the r. upon a little stream which falls into the Ystwith, is an estate long possessed by the Lloyds, called Aberllolwyn. In a bog called gors y rhudd, a very curious ancient shield was found by some people cutting turf. It is circular, 2 feet in diameter, made of brass and ornamented with concentric cir¬ cles. Cross the Ystwith at Pontllanych inran. The seat of capt. William Edward Powel, at Nanicos, lies 2 miles up a tribu- appear several rough-hewn stones, patch¬ ed with moss. Two of these remain up¬ right, which are massive parallelopipcds, from S to 10 feet high, standing within a yard or two of each other. They are sup¬ posed to be either the remains of a druidic temple, or the tomb of some departed warrior. The road now descends in the abrupt vale of Ystwith, crossing a picturesque bridge, venerably mantled with ivy. Continuing the route over the high ridgy hills which divide the parallel vales of Ystwith and Rhydiol the latter presents an agreeable contrast to the dreary country within a few miles of Haverfordwest. Here a- mong extensive meadows of the richest verdure the meandering Rhydiol wantons in fantastic courses. On a gentle emi¬ nence, near it’s banks, in the midst of the valley, appears the embowered town of Llandbadern-vawr, a picturesque tho’ deserted spot; yet once a roman city, and afterwards the seat of an episcopacy and monastery, established by St. Paternus in she beginning of the 6th century. The church is yet a handsome building. Be¬ tween this town and the sea-coast is a small ancient fortification, consisting of a separate area, surrounded by a wall with a tower at one of the angles. A range of wild hills, backed by the stupendous Plinlimmon, forms the opposite bound¬ ary of thi3 valley; and at it’s termination in the sea-coast, the town of Aberystwith appears on the brink of the sea, with it’s ruined castle, on a gentle rise, to the left; the Rhydiol flowing on the right. This approach is certainly very striking, and raises expectations which the Interior of Aberystwith is not calculated to gratify. After quitting Aberaeron,mr. Warner’s leading object was Kilgarp.an Castle. 9 ABEREARON. 10 A dull unvaried country led him for 14 or 15 miles to the village of Blaenporth, where he quitted the Cardigan road and turned to the left, through a broad vale watered by the Teivi. The little village of Uurycl was before him, containing an immense manufacture of tin plates, the property of Sir Benjamin Hammct, whose house, called Castle Malkxen, is contigu¬ ous. After passing a high hill on the road to Cardigan a pleasing view of the sea is presented, with a retrospect along the coast of Cardigan-bay, as far as the town ol Aberystwith. From another hill is a sec ond view of the bay, till the inn of Llan- gronog, about half way from Aberaeron to Cardigan is attained. This district is generally cultivated and enclosed, separ¬ ated by hedge-rows. Two miles further is the british encampment called Castel yn Doig, the embarkments of which are broken up in several places and the area intersected by turf enclosures. The turn¬ pike passes over it’s southern side. A- nother, but smaller encampment occurs close to the road, whence is a view of the sea. Near Cardigan a pleasing prospect is presented of the rich vale of the Teivy. At the entrance to the town is the coun¬ ty gail.—Lipscomb. Mr. Malkin, mr. Cumberland, and other writers, have impressed strongly this opinion, that the banks of rivers afford the most picturesque scenery, and the most fertile ground. On this plan of per¬ ambulation, the editor intends to pursue thr Aeron from Aberaeron at first op¬ portunity. In the mean time he will endeavour to chalk out the path for him¬ self and others, from Singer's 4 sheets map of Cardiganshire, and from Meyrick’s descriptions. Continue with the river on the 1. for 2§ miles, reach the tributary My- dyr, which cross to Llanycliayrvn Church, a modern building, stationed delightfully, and built at the expense of the parishion¬ ers and colonel Lewis of Llanychaeron. It consists of a nave, chancel, and tower, stuccoed on the outside. In the parish of Llanarch Aeron is a farm called Castel Cefuddu, or the back of the black castle. About a quarter of a mile further is I.lan- ychaeron-IJouse, the elegant seat of colonel Lewis, formerly the residence of the Par¬ ry family, standing in a handsome well- wooded district. Thcpresentownerisdc- sended from Cadwgan Grach of Carog and well known for his affability and lib¬ erality. Pass on the borders of Ciliau Park. Just across the river where a brook falls into it, is Tyglyn, or Tyglyn-isav, (to distinguish it from Tyglyn-uchar) an an¬ cient seat of the family of the Jones t the last of whom, Henry Jones, left a daughter and heiress, Susanna, who mar¬ ried Alban Thomas, esq. of Newcastle Emlyn. Ciliau Aeron, lies a little on the r. after passing the park. The Church is a rectory. A road 2 miles s. leads to the vil¬ lage of Dihcwid, sometimes called Dich- wood. The Church is a perpetual curacy. At 4J miles is a cross road over Pont neiv- ydd, to Tymaur and Cilcennin, a mile to the 1. In this parish was a battle fought be¬ twixt Maclgyivn and his nephews. A Cardiganshire poet wrote the following a. bout the year 1786, on walking down from the top of Tri-crug-liill in this parish, to Talsarn. Sweet Acron’s vile unknown in 9ong, demands the warbling lyre; shall silver Aeron glide along, and not a bard inspire! What hard that Aeron sees can fail, to sing the charms of Aeron vale ? There golden treasures swell the plains, and herds and flocks are there; and there the God of plenty reigns, triumphant all the year; the nymphs are gay, the swains are hale; such blessings dwell in Acron’s vale. While ev’ry toast through Albion vies, in dubious competition; and female charms contend the prize of beauty’s high ambition; sweet Aeron’s beauties must prevail, for angels dwell in Acron’s vale. Tri-crtig hill takes it’s name from the three tumuli upon it’s summit, and besides tire charming view of the vale of Aeron from this height, it is a station affording great extent of vision. The Church of Cilcen¬ nin is a vicarage. Pins Cilcennyn was form¬ erly the residence of Harry Vaughan, esq. a sheriff for the county during the reign of Cromwell. 5§ m. on the 1. is Green Grove, in a well wooded situation, once the pro¬ perty of the Lloyds, now of the Vaughans, of Tyllwyd. One m. further pass through Y'strad, the principal village in a large parish extending from the vale of Aeron 11 ABEREARON. 13 almost to the vale of Teivy. In the s.part of it is an ancient intrenchment called Cri. hyn Cloltas. At Maes Mynach near a val¬ ley called CwmMynach, is an old stone cov¬ ered with knots and circles. The church of Ystrad is an ancient building, consisting ofanave and n. aisle, separated by 5 square pillars, supporting 4 pointed arches. There are some black stone monuments to the names of Jane Evans, John Richard, and the lion, lady Dorothy dowager viscountess Lisburne. Ystrad-House is neat and res¬ pectable. For nearly the 2 last miles we have left the Aeron on the 1. but in order to return to it pass half a mile onwards to Llwyd-siac, and thence to Llanllear. Per- liaps this cannot be effected till having crossed a brook at the former place, turn to the 1. over a circuitious road by the King’s-head, near Felindre. Llwyd-siac, was formerly the residence of the Lloyds, as it’s name indicates, but is now almost in ruins. The estate now belongs to coun- cellor Touchett. Llanllear is a venerably secluded spot, shaded by lofty ash trees, and watered by a streamlet which falls into the Aeron. It was once a Cistercian nun¬ nery, a cell to Strata-Florida-Abbey. From this place cross the river to the village of Talsarn or Tal y sarn, the end of the cause¬ way. Take a road to the r. which con¬ tinues not far distant from the river. The village pf Treyilan lies nearly a mile to the n. on the road from Lampeter to Aber- ystwith. The old Church formed upon the model of those built about the time of king Stephen, was taken down in May 1806, and a small new church was erect¬ ed in it’s stead. Continue on the banks of the Aeron for 2 miles, leaving Nantcwnlle called also Nantgunllo, to the 1. Near Havod, the residence of mr. Rogers, is an old intrenchment called Pen y gacr. lj- m. further is a house called Cilpill, where a brook is crossed which rises near Pcn- craig, and falls near this place into the Aeron. Proceed 2 m. to Llangeilho, long celebrated as the head quarters of the Me¬ thodists of this district. This parish com¬ prehends a delightful tract of land, and the town is agreeably sheltered by hills, ex¬ cept where the eye is directed down the enchanting vale of Aeron. The Church Stands upon a delightful rural spot, parted from the town by the river Aeron. It ap¬ pears to have been once a place ol some consequence, but dissenting principles have detached a great part of the congre¬ gation, and it has of late gone much to de¬ cay. It is a small rectory in the gift of the freeholders of the parish. There is a double screen to separate the chancel from the body of the church, which exhibits a curious specimen of laborious but elegant gothic workmanship. Each part of the screen consists of three ornamented arch¬ es, in the spandrils of which birds and beasts are grotesquely introduced. On the n. side of the chancel is a flat mural slab to the memory of Daniel Rowland, father of the rev. Daniel Rowland, who was rector of this place and a popular preacher. He was much noticed by the Countess of Huntingdon. He was con¬ sidered a Calvinistic methodist, but he taught particular tenets, and founded a distinct sect. The bishop in consequence of this conduct censured him, and he was suspended from his office. He then col¬ lected his adherents, and they agreed to build a very large meeting-house in the centre of the village, where Rowlands might unmolested vent his effusions. His sister retained her church opinions, and while the meeting has been crowded, his successor, the clerk and the sister, have not unfrequently formed the congregation at the church. He died Oct. 10, 1190, pged 77, and was buried in the church¬ yard. Upon the e. bank of the Aeron, continue with the course of the river to Rhycl y pandy, leaving Llanbadarn Od- •uiynne on the r. The Church is situated upon a very high, cold, and bleak hill, commanding a fine prospect of the fertile vale of Aeron. It’s name indicates it’s patron saint to be St. Paternus or Patrick. Odvvynne, “ very white,” seems to be de¬ scriptively applied, as it may be seen for some miles on every side. Higher than these places there appears no beaten road upon the banks of this river, which takes it’s rise in a lake called Llyn aeddwen, in the parish of Llanrhystydd. The Aeron is be¬ tween 6 and 7 m. in extent, receives 6 tributary streams, and forms, during the whole of it’s course, nearly the arc of a circle. The common road deviates to the e. falling into another which passes from the s. to the n. To Ab- 13 14 ABERGAVENNY, To AberysCwith, 18 miles, Barber ; Wyndham ; Skrine. — Cardigan, 22 miles, Warner; Wyndham’s 2d. tour; Lipscomb. From Monmouth, 16§miles, Barber; Skrine. — Ragland, 10 miles, Coxe. — Brecon,20 miles, J. Evans. -Usk, 11 miles, Warner. —— Llanthony Abbey, 11 miles, Wyndham. —• Crickhowel, 6 miles, Wyndhnm. ABERGAVENNY (the ancient Goban- nium of the Romans) is a straggling ir¬ regular town in Monmouthshire, pleas¬ ingly interspersed with trees, situated on tire conflux of the Gavenny and the Usk, at the foot of the Derry, one of the confed¬ erated hills sustaining the towering cone of the Sugar-Loaf, which gently inclines to the river. This town and it’s environs have strong claims on the traveller’s at¬ tention. It’s castle and delightful terrace, overlooking the rich vale of Usk, it’s church abounding in costly sculptured tombs, it’sjjeautifully variegated moun¬ tains, all conspire to render this place par¬ ticularly attractive. The lofty summit of the Sugar Loaf Mountain should not re¬ main unvisited; nor the rugged eminence of the Skyrrid vawr. This town contained in 1 SOI, 548 houses, and 257:5 inhabitants. The Mail arrives at 10 at night and de¬ parts at4 in the morning. Inn, The Grey¬ hound. The Angel Inn is large expen¬ sive, and uncomfortable.—E. I. Spence. On an eminence near the southern ex¬ tremity of the town, is the ruined Castle, which at present exhibits very few me¬ morials of former magnificence. The gate-house is tolerably entire, and vesti¬ ges of two courts may be traced among the broken walls ; but of the citadel no traces remain, although an intrenched mound, close to the ruins, evidently marks it’s site. The town was also fortified, and many portions of the work remain, particularly Tudor’s-Gatc, the western en¬ trance, is furnished with two portcullises and remarkable for the beautifully com¬ posed landscape seen through it. The castle is more remarkable for the delight¬ ful view which it’s elevated terrace com¬ mands over the beautiful vale of Usk, than for the form or extent of it’s ruins, which arc by no means beautiful. Here, while I wake the reed beneath the brow of the rent Noiman tower that overhangs the lucid Usk, the undulating line that nature loves. Whether witli gentle bend she slopes the vale, or lifts the gradual hill, winds the free rivulet, or down the bank spreads the wild wood’s luxuriant growth, or with interrupting heights the even bound [breaks of tire outstretched horizon. Farand wide, blackening the plain beneath, proud lilorenge lowers; behind whose level length the weslern sun dims his slope beam: there the opposed mount eastern of craggy Skyrrid, sacred soil, oft trod bv pilgrim foot. O’er the smooth swell of Derry, glide the clouds, that gathering hang round yon steep brow, amid (Ire varied scene towering aloft. As gradual up the height of the rough lulls, ascending Ceres leads the patient step of labour, the wild heath, where once the nibbling flock scant herbage cropt wave in the breeze, with golden harvests crown’d. Sotheby’s Tour. The style of building which form the remains of this fortress, mark it’s origin to have been subsequent to the Norman epoch. It was founded by Ilameline Ba¬ iun, or Baladun, son of Dru of Baiun, a norman adventurer, who came with Wil¬ liam 1, and let loose the dogs of war upon the unoffending Welsh. Having subdued the entire district of Overwent, he died without issue, in 1090, bequeathing the castle to his nephew Brien de Walling¬ ford, or De 1’ Isle. It was afterwards possessed by Walter de Gloucester, by Milo his son, then by his three daughters; by Philip de Broase, and by his son Willi¬ am. It was next taken by the Welsh, un¬ der Sytsylt ap Dyfnvvald and others, and the garrison made prisoners. William re¬ ceived it however again, in exchange, and inviting several of the welsh chieftains to the castle, he had them basely murdered. From the Braoses it came to the Cante- lupes, the Hastings, the Valences, the Herberts, the Greys, the Beauchamps, and the Nevilles. George Neville, the 15th baron, was created viscount Neville, and earl of Abergavenny, in 1784, and dying iu 1785, he was succeeded in honours and estates by Henry, the present earl. The Church is a large gothic structure and ap¬ pears to have been built in the form of a roman cross, but lias been curtailed of it’s transepts; at the juncture of one of them a circular arch, now filled up, wears a norman character, and seems to have been part of the original building. Three arch¬ es, curiously dissimilar, separate the aisle ABERGAVENNY. 16 from the nave. The choir remains in it’s antique state, with stalls, for a prior and his monks, formed of oak, and rudely carv¬ ed. The aisles on either side are furnish¬ ed witli the monuments of the Herbert and other families. That which records the name of sir Richard Herbert of Ewias, son of William the first earl of Pembroke, is the most striking. In a recess of the s. wall is a recumbent figure, with uplifted hands, the head resting upon a helmet; at the feet a lion, and behind some small figures in alabaster ; beneath is an alabas¬ ter monument, containing 2 recumbent figures. Under an arch between the chap¬ el and choir are the remains of sir Rich¬ ard Herbert, of Coldbrook, and his wife. In the centre of the chapel is another of alabaster, rich with carving, to the memo¬ ry of Sir William ap Thomas, and Gladys, his wife, the parents, of Wm. Herbert, first earl of Pembroke. Sir William was the son of the famous Thomas ap Gwillim, and Gladys his wife was daughter to sir David Gam, and widow of sir Roger Vaughan, who fell at Agincourt, by the side of Henry 5. On the s. side is an in¬ arched mural monument, surmounted by tabernacle work, and a recumbent stone figure, crosslegged, and therefore suppos¬ ed a knight. Other altar-tombs, commem¬ orate some of the families of Beau¬ champ and Neville. In the n. e. corner are two stone effigies representative of sir Andrew and Lady Powel, a collateral branch of the Herbert family. At the n. end of the choir are two female recum¬ bent figures, rude and delapidated, said to have been co-heiresses of Braose, lord of Abergavenny. In the n. aisle of the choir is a small enclosure called the Lewis Chapel, from a monument formed of one piece of stone, to the memory of doctor David Lewis. He died a. d. 1584. A colossal statue in the window of the n. aisle, represents St. Christopher. With¬ in the communion rails, a stone commem¬ orates the family of Roberts. Before the dissolution of religious houses, the church belonged to a priory of Benedic¬ tine monks, which was founded by Hame- line de Baladun, one of the norman adven¬ turers, who acquired Abergavenny by conquest. The Priory-house adjoins the nave of the church, and is converted into a commodious lodging-house. The rooms are taken by the week at 10s 6tZ each. The Free-Schoolin the town was found¬ ed by Henry 8, and amply endowed with the revenues of forfeited monasteries, &c. At about 2 m. distance is Wern- dee, a poor patched-up house; tho’ once a mansion of considerable magnificence, is now only interesting as being considered the spot where the prolific Herbert race was first implanted in Britain. In the vicinity of Abergavenny there is a very elegant small villa belonging to lady Harrington, the entrance to which is tastefully laid out, and about 2 m.from the town is the handsome family man¬ sion and pleasure-grounds of Court y gril¬ le n. Passing the fine old bridge of 13 arch¬ es, over the Usk, the Blorengc Mountain rises to the height of 1720 feet. This is one of the mountains which form the chain extending from the confines of Brecknock to Panteg, below Pontypool. The summit is covered with a russet col¬ oured herbage, forming acontrast to the underwoods and pastures upon it’s sides, and the large timber trees which skirt it’s base. This lengthened mountain forms the n. e. boundary of the valley called Avon Lmyd, from the rivulet which runs through it. Near the source of this stream is Bluenavon, where im¬ mense iron works are established, which employ upwards of 400 men. The moun¬ tainous territory containing these miner¬ al treasures, was demised by the crown to the earl of Abergavenny and is held under lease by Hill & co. This unfre¬ quented district, formerly called the wilds of Monmouth, was formerly only noticed for the cover it afforded for game and the sport of growse-shooting.—J. Britton. A principal Excursion from Aberga¬ venny is that which leads northwards to Llanthony Abbey, amajestic ruin, seat¬ ed in a deep recess of the black moun¬ tains, at the very extremity of Monmouth¬ shire. The first part of the route lies through a romantic pass, between the Skyrrid and Sugar-Loaf Mountains, upon the Hereford turnpike. Proceeding about 2 m. the church of Ltandcilo Berlholly ap- ABERGAVENNY. 18 pear on the r. and not far from it an an¬ tique mansion called the White-House, a residence of the Floyers. Another an¬ cient house at the village of Llanvihangel Crickhornell, seen through groves of firs, was lately a scat of the Arnolds, but now occupied as a farm-house. From this spot a foot path strikes off among the mountains, through tangled forests and upon precipices impendent over the braw¬ ling torrent of the Honchly, which some¬ times opens to scenes of the most roman¬ tic description. Immediately to the left of the road rises the Gaer, a huge rocky hill crowned with an ancient encamp¬ ment. On the opposite side of the river, fearfully hanging on a steep cliff, and be¬ neath a menacing hill, bristled with in¬ numerable crags, is the romantie village of Ciumjoy. —J. T. Barber. AN EXCURSION FROM ABERGAVENNY. By the Rev. W. Coxe. Having received repeated accounts of the different and contrasted views from the tops of the Sugar-loaf and Skyrrid, I determined to visit them both on the same day. I departed therefore at 7 in the morn¬ ing from Abergavenny, rode about 1 m. along the Hereford road, mounted the e. side of the Derry, in the dry bed of a tor¬ rent, came to a heathy down, and gently ascended to the bottom, \v hich below ap¬ pears like a cone, and is called the Sugar- loaf, or Pen-y-foel, or Pen-y-vale. The sides of the mountain were covered with heath, wortle-berries and moss, to the height of a foot, which renders the ascent so extremely easy, that a light carriage might be driven to the base of the cone, not more than 100 paces from the summit. I dismounted near a rock, which emerges from the side of the ridge, forming a natur¬ al wall, and reached the top without the leastdifficulty This elevated point, which crowns the summit of the 4 hills, is an un¬ dulated ridge about a quarter of a m. in length, and 200 yards in breadth, with broken crags starting up,amid the moss and heath with which it is covered. The view from this point is magnificent, extensive, and diversified. It commands the counties of Radnor, Salop, Brecknock, Monmouth, Glamorgan. Hereford, Worcester, Glou¬ cester, Somerset, and Wilts. To the w. stretches the long and beautiful Vale of the Usk, winding in the recesses of the mountains, and extending to the s. into the fertile plain, which is terminated by the Clytha Hill. Above it towers the magnificent Blorenge, almost equal in height to the point on which I stood; and in the midst rises the undulating swell of the Little Skyrrid, appearing like a gen¬ tle eminence feathered with wood. To the n., a bleak, dreary, sublime mass of mountains extends in a circular range, from the extremity of the black mountains a- bove Lanthony, to the Table Rock near Crickhowel; the commencement of the great chain which extends from these con¬ fines of Monmouthshire across N. Wales, to the Irish sea. To the e. I looked down on the broken crags of the great Skyrrid, which starts up in the midst of a rich and cultivated region. Beyond, the Malvern Hills, the Graig, the Garway, and the e- minences above Monmouth, bound the horizon. Above, and on the side of Brecknockshire, all was clear and bright; but below, and to the s. there was much vapour and mist, which obscured the prospect, and prevented my seeing the distant Severn, and the hills in Somerset¬ shire and Glocesters'nire. This elevat¬ ed point rises 1852 feet perpendicular from the mouth of the Gavenny, and is seen from Bitcomb-hill, near Longleat, in the county of Wilts, and from the Siiper- Stoncs, in Shropshire, near the borders of Montgomeryshire. During my con¬ tinuance on the summit, I felt that ex¬ treme satisfaction which I always experi¬ ence when elevated on the highest point of the circumjacent country. “ The air is more pure, the body more active, and the mind more serene; lifted up above the dwellings of man, we discard all grovel¬ ling and earthly passions; the thoughts assume a character of sublimity propor¬ tionate to the grandeur of the surrounding objects ; and as the body approaches near¬ er to the ethereal regions, the soul imbibes a portion of their unalterable purity.” [Rousseau.] Reluctantly quitting the summit, I walked down the side of the Derry, facing the precipitous crags of the dark Skyrrid, and in an hour entered the Hereford road, 2 m. from Abergavenny, where I arrived at half past IK [I ABERGAVENNY. 20 would recommend travellers who visit the top of the Sugar-loaf, to ascend the Derry from the Hereford road, and to de¬ scend the side of the Rolben.] After taking some refreshment and repose, 1 de¬ parted at 2 for the summit of the Skyrrid, on horseback, accompanied by the same guide who had conducted me to the top of the Sugar-loaf. Having rode 2 m. a- long the road leading to White Castle, we attempted to ascend towards the s-w. part of the mountain, which is distinguished by 3 small fissures. I soon discovered Uiat my guide was unacquainted with the way; and, on enquiring of a farmer, was informed the usual route led by Landewi Skyrrid. By this direction, however, we continued at the foot of the mountain, through fields of coi n and pasture, and then proceeded along a narrow path, over¬ spread with high broom, which in many places quite covered my horse. Forcing our way with some difficulty through this heathy wood, we rode over a moor, by the side of the stone wall and hedge, which stretch at the base, reached the path leading from Llandewi Skyrrid, and ascended, on foot, the grassy slope of the mountain. The heat was so intense, the fatigue I had undergone in the day so con¬ siderable, and the effort I impatiently made to reach the summit so violent, that when 1 looked down from the nar¬ row and desolated ridge, the boundless expanse around and beneath, which sud¬ denly burst upon my sight, overcame me. I felt a mixed sensation of animation and lassitude, horror and delight, such as I scarcely ever before experienced, even in the Alps of Switzerland; my spirits al¬ most failed, even curiosity was suspend¬ ed, and I threw myself exhausted on the ground. These sensations increased dur¬ ing my continuance upon the summit. I se.vcral times attempted to walk along the ridge, but my head became so giddy, as I looked down the precipitous sides, and particularly towards the great fissure, that I could not remain standing. I seem¬ ed only safe when extended on the ground and was not therefore in a condition to examine and describe the beauties of the view. However I took out my pencil, and made ^ few hasty notes. The ridge of the Skyrrid seemed to be about a m. in length, extremely narrow, generally not more than 30 or 40 feet broad, and in some places only 10 or 12; it’s craggy surface is partly covered with scant and russet herbage, exhibiting only a stunted thorn, which heightens the dreariness of it’s aspect. After remaining half an hour on the top, incapable of making any fur¬ ther observations, I descended, and went round the e. side of the mountain, where it terminates in an abrupt precipice near the large fissure. I walked across the meadows, along a gradual descent, through fine groves of oaks and Spanish chesnuts, to Llanvikangel-kouse, an old mansion belonging to the earl of Oxford. It was the ancient seat of the A.rnold fam¬ ily, and was sold in 1722, to Auditor Har¬ ley, ancestor of the present earl. It is now inhabited only by a farmer, and copr tains nothing but some old furniture, a few family pictures, and some good im¬ pressions of Hogarth’s prints. The place is distinguished by avenues of Scot’s firs, which are the largest and finest in Eng¬ land. From the grounds near the front of the house, the Skyrrid presents itself with peculiar effect, the fissure seems like an enormous chasm, separating 2 mountains, the impending and craggy summits of which vie in height and rug¬ gedness. It was near 6 o’olock, and 1 hastened to join a party returning from the ruins of Lanthony Abbey. I partook of an elegant collation spread on the banks of the Honddy ; the evening was placid and serene, and I forgot the fatigues of the day in convivial intercourse and social conversation. On my return to Aberga¬ venny, the moon shining in full splendor, gleamed on the craggy ridge of the Skyr¬ rid, and tinged with it’s silvery rays the undulating and woody sides of the Derry, forming a contrast of beauty and sublimity. In a subsequent tour, I made a second expedition to the top of the Skyrrid. I passed along the Ross road as far as Lan¬ dewi Skyrrid, where there is an old goth¬ ic mansion, now a farm house; it former¬ ly belonged to the family of Greville, was sold by the late earl of Warwick to Henry Wilmot, esq. secretary to the lord Coancellor, and is now in the possession 32 21 ABERGAVENNY. of his eon. From this place I followed a narrow stony bridle-way, till I reached the extremity of the Skyrrid, and walked up the same grassy path which I had as¬ cended in my first excursion. I attained the summit without making those violent exertions, or experiencing the fatigue which I had before undergone, and ad¬ mired the prospect without the smallest sensation of uneasiness or lassitude. I ascended to the highest point of the moun¬ tain, at it’s n-e. extremity, where a small circular cavity is formed near the verge of the precipice ; it is supposed to be the site of a Roman Catholic Chapel, dedi¬ cated to St. Michael, from which the Skyrrid has derived one of it’s appellations of St. Michael’s mount. 1 could observe no traces either of walls or foundations ; the entrance, which is to the s-w. is marked by two upright stones, 2 Icet in height, on one of them are several letters rudely carved, among which I could on¬ ly distinguish “ Turner, 16'71To this place many Roman Catholics in the vici¬ nity are said to repair annually on Mich- aelmas-eve, and perform their devotions. The earth of this spot is likewise consid¬ ered as sacred, and was formerly carried away to cure diseases, and to sprinkle the coffins of those who were interred ; but whether this superstitious practice still continues, I was not able to ascertain. 1 seated myself on the brow of the cliff, overhanging the rich groves of Llanvi- hangle, and surveyed at my leisure the diversified expanse of country which stretched beneath and around. Altho’ the summit of the Skyrrid is less elevated than that of the Sugar-loaf, yet it’s insu¬ lated situation, abrupt declivity, and crag¬ gy fissures, produce an effect more sub¬ lime and striking than the smooth and undulating surface of the Sugar-loaf and Derry. On the n-e. and e., an extensive and fertile region stretches from the cen¬ tre of Herefordshire to the valley of the Usk, which, tho’ a succession of hill and dale, yet appears a vast plain, broken by a few solitary eminences, and bounded by distant hills, gradually losing them¬ selves in the horizon. The spires of Hereford Cathedral gleamed in the dis¬ tant prospect, the remains of Grosmont- Castle. were faintly distinguished under the Graig and Garw r ay, and the majestic ruins of White Castle, tower above the church of Llandewi Skyrrid. To the s. the gentle swell of the little Skyrrid rose like a hillock above the town of Aberga¬ venny, the feathered hills of Clytha, tuft¬ ed with the Coed y Bunedd, and backed w'ith the Pencamawr ; beyond which ap¬ pears the estuary of the Severn, under the cultivated eminences of Glocestershire and Somersetshire. To the s-w., the eye caught a glimpse of the Usk, pursuing through copses and meads it’s serpentine course, under a continued chain of wood¬ ed acclivites. To the w. and n-w. I look¬ ed down on a grand and dreary mass of mountains, extending from Abergavenny beyond the frontiers of Herefordshire, and domineered by the elegant cone of the Sugar-loaf. The black mountains form the northern extremity of this chain, and are intersected by the sequestered valley of Honddy. Beneath yawned the abyss of the stupendous fissure, which ap¬ pears to have been caused by some vio¬ lent convulsion of nature, and, according to the legends of superstition, was rent assunder by the earthquake, at the cruci¬ fixion of our Saviour, hence it is also de¬ nominated the Holy Mountain, by which name it is chiefly distinguished among the natives. After contemplating the chasm above, I endeavoured to enter it down the w. side of the mountain ; but finding the declivity too prccipitious, re¬ mounted the ridge, and descended the gentler slope to the e. Proceeding along it’s base, I turned round it’s n-e. extrem¬ ity, which terminates in an abrupt and tremendous precipice, and passing over fragments of rock, entered the fissure on the n.-w. side of the mountain. This chasm is not less than 300 feet in breadth ; the rugged side of the Skyrrid rises per¬ pendicular as a wall, to an amazing height’ The opposite crag is equally perpendicu¬ lar, tho’ far less elevated. At some dis¬ tance, it appears like an enormous frag¬ ment, separated from the mountain. It’s shape, and the strata of the rock, resem¬ ble that part of the Skyrrid from which it seems to have been detached; but a nearer view convinced me that it never 23 ABERGAVENNY. 24 could have fallen from the summit. Ma¬ ny similar fissures I observed in the Alps, and they arc common in mountainous re¬ gions. The frequent springs, oozing through the interstices of the rocks, under¬ mine the foundation; and the vast mass¬ es, thus deprived of support, either sink, or are separated one from the other, till, by degrees, great chasms are formed, and the mountain seems to have been rent as- sunder. The w. side of the smaller crag, which bounds the fissure, is wholly over¬ hung with underwood, and forms a sin¬ gular contrast with the bare and rugged precipice of the present mountain. Among other delightful situations in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny, is Twydee, the seat of William Dinwoody, esq.; a spot which exhibits the striking characteristics of a Monmouthshire view, where i the extremes of wildness and fertility arc, like the colours of a picture, blended one with the other. A pleasant excursion may be made to the four hills which form the base of the Sugar-loaf. These hills are called the Derry, the llvlbcn, the Craig Llanwenartk, and Llanwenartk hill. They are separated by dingles, mantled with thickets of oaks, and watered by torrents, which heighten the effects of the romantic scenery by their incessant roar and glistening foam. They abound with picturesque beauties, and command extensive prospects. The traveller is at one time enveloped in wood, and at another, views, equally grand, extensive, and diversified, break upon his sight. The Little Skyrrid is a beautiful swelling hill, rising to the height of 765 feet, rich¬ ly luxuriant in wood and pasturage, com. manding the most delightful and elegant prospect in Monmouthshire. Beneath, the vale stretches from Crickhowel to the Clytha hills, watered by the Usk, mean¬ dering through rich tracts of corn, pasture, and wood, occasionally lost in the midst of thickets, and again bursting into view. Above the right bank of this beautiful riv¬ er, extend the chain of wooded eminen¬ ces, from the extremity of the Blorenge, to the rich groves of Pont y Pool Park; from the 1. sweeps the fertile district in which the mansions of Clylha, Llanarth and Llansanfraed are situated. To the w. of the Skyrrid rises an enormous mass of mountain, among which are most conspi- cious the towering point of the Sugar-loaf, and the magnificent swelloftheBlorenge. The town of Abergavenny lies stretched below, and is seen to great advantage. The views from the Great Skyrrid, and other mountains in Monmouthshire are more extensive but none so delightful as from this. The road to Brecon lies on the clear and lively Usk, in a romantic valley, which passes the boundary of the charm¬ ing county of Monmouth, but is attended with a continuance of agreeable scenery. Among the verdant accompaniments of the serpentizing river, the rich groves and smiling lawns of Dany-Park are conspicu¬ ous, swelling above a fertile vale, and backed by a range of wild mountains. This was formerly the residence of the ingenious tourist mr. Skrine; but since his death it has undergone various chang¬ es. It was a place much endeared to him. The Rent of this park is said to be 20s. an acre, than which a finer farm cannot per¬ haps be found in the vale of Usk. This scenery continues the greatest part of the road, varied in places on the 1. by the fires and smoke of iron-works ; these amid the falling shades of eve, give an impressive grandeur to the scene. At the distance of 2-§ m. stands a stone to mark the divi¬ sion of Monmouthshire from Brecknock. The first house in the principality from this approach is called Sunny-bcink. Cross the Grunny a contributary to the Usk. A little further, in the middle of a cornfield stands a rude pillar of stone, apparently not less than 10 feet high, probably of druidic origin. About 2 m. further oc¬ curs Crickhowel, an old meanly built town ; but hanging on the steep declivi¬ ties of a fine hill, and dignified with the picturesque ruin of a Castle, is an inter¬ esting object in the approach. The ex¬ tent of this fragment of antiquity, is by no means considerable. A narrow gothic bridge here crosses the Usk to the pleas¬ ing village of Llangattoc. This neighbour, hood is enlivened by several handsome seats; the most remarkable of which, with respect to excellence of position and sin¬ gularity of design, is the newly-erected residence of Admiral Gell. In the vicini- 25 ABERGAVENNY. 26 ty of Llangattoc, in the vale of Usk, stands Pen my odd, an eminence nearly insulated by distant surrounding mountains much higher than itself. It’s apex is an exten¬ sive flat, commanding most interesting views. The road continues scenic and entertaining to the small village of Trelwr, remarkable only for a few picturesque fragments of it’s castle, once the residence of My narch, lord of Brecon. Then wind¬ ing round a conic eminence the road as¬ cends a mighty hill, called the Bvdch ; dur¬ ing which ascent, a farewell view of the vale of Usk, and it’s appendages, is truly interesting and grand. But from these wide ranging views, and external scenery, the tourist becomes shut up, on entering the pass of the mountains, (a sterile hol¬ low) from which he emerges on a subject of an entirely opposite and very singular description. Surrounded by dark moun¬ tains, melancholy and waste, appears an extensive lake called Langor’s Pool, up¬ wards of 6 m. in circumference. In the neighbourhood of the lake n. e. and near the head of the Llevenny brook which empties itself into the pool, is Blaen Llca- ven Castle. It was fortified by Peter Fitz- lierbert, descended from Bernard dc New- march, Lord of Brecon. The road soon descends to the fine vale of Brecon, grand¬ ly accompanied by a semicircular range of mountains: where the Van proudly rears it’s furrowed and cloven summit, high a- bove the clouds. Advancing, cultivation takes a more extensive sweep, and pictur¬ esque disposition becomes frequent. The Usk, flowing round the foot of the Bwlch cloathed with the extensive plantations of mr. Wynne, called Buchland-House, sa¬ lutes the beholder with renewed attrac¬ tions ; and farther up the vale, the charm¬ ing woody eminence of Peterslone is laved by it’s sinuous career. On the 1. of the road.about 5 m. from Brecon, is a stone pil¬ lar, 6 feet in height and nearly cylindrical on which is an inscription, which Camden read,N.— Filius Victorina, but which is now almost obliterated. In the parish of Llan Hamwalch, standing on the summit of a hill near the church (which is to the 1. of the road, a little beyond the former monument) is St. Iltud’s Hermitage, com¬ posed of 4 large flat stones; 3 of which, standing upright, are surmounted by a 4th, so as to form a sort of hut, 8 feet long and 4 wide, and nearly 4 in height. This kind of monument is called Kist-vaen, a vari¬ ety of the Cromlech, and supposed to have been applied to the same purposes.—J. T. Barber. To THE NORTH OF ABERGAVENNY, stretches a mountainous district, contain¬ ing very romantic features. Llanviangle CricJchorncll, or Cwm Comwy, situated at the extremity of the pass between the Skyrrid and the Black Mountains, 5 m, from Abergavenny, might be the centre of several excursions. Two miles from Llanviangle, close to tire Hereford road is Campston-House, (where Charles 1, is said to have passed a night,) formerly the scat of the Arnolds, one of whom sold it to Auditor Har¬ ley, and it is at present the property of the carl of Oxford. The house is occupied as a farm, and contains only some ancient furniture and family pictures; but the surrounding groves of oaks, Spanish ches- nuts, and scotch firs, uncommonly large and fine, are well worth attention. The isolated mountain of Skyrrid-mazer is at a short distance from the house. Seen from one point it appears a large barrow, from another of a globular form ; from others a truncated cone. The height of the high¬ est part, according to General Roy, is 1498 feet. Upon this spot once stood a small chapel, the site of which is only discern- able from a circular hollow. It was ded¬ icated to St. Michael, whence the hill is called St. Michael’s Mount. It is divided into 2 unequal parts, by a separation which presents from tire w. or n-w. an enormous chasm. Upon the opposite side of the turnpike-road is an ancient en¬ campment called Campston-Hill; proba¬ bly roman, for antiquaries are not agreed upon any criterions to distinguish such places of defence. They are described as British, Roman, Saxon, Danish, or Nor¬ man, according to the bias of each writer. The circumstance of roman coins being found at or near them, is not a criterion. Long after the departure of the Romans from this country, their money continued to be current among the Britons, and during the ensuing commotions much 27 A B ERG A VENN Y. was secreted. A square' or rectangular form lias been generally attributed to the Romans or British, but it is evident from the camps of England that the particu¬ lar form of the site led the projectors to such figures as were best adapted for de¬ fence, without any strict regard to rule. From this eminence may be seen the re¬ cesses of the black mountains, and the range of hills which stretch from Aber¬ gavenny beyond the frontiers of Breck¬ nockshire and Herefordshire. Four m. from Campston, on the road from Aber¬ gavenny to Hereford, is Llangua, the site of an alien priory of black monks; but no vestige remains. These places only deserve to be visited, not as objects of curiosity, but for the sake of examin¬ ing the face of the country in new posi¬ tions. The tourist should not omit traversing the road from Llangua to Catnp- ston , which commands a delightful view of the mountans in the N.part cf the coun¬ try. Several roman coins have been dug up here, hence Harris would infer, with great uncertainty, that it had been form¬ ed by the Romans. The summit of Gaer furnishes an ex¬ ample of a roman camp. The Romans made their camps frequently rectangular, sometimes square, sometimes oblong, with the corners general rounded; a pe¬ culiarity which that people adopted in their stone walls as well as carthern en¬ closures. Roman stations must nev¬ er be looked for on high mountains, but upon gentle eminences, whence they were able to see the Britons at a distance. A roman road appears to have passed in a direction s-w. from Abergavenny to Neath, or to some station in Glamorgan¬ shire. “ I travelled over that part of it which stretches ftom Pcnlhoyn, n. to Byduiellty, and the Sorwy furnaces. It forms a straight line, from 40 to 50 feet in breadth, between the hedges, which is an uncommon circumstance in Mon¬ mouthshire, where the roads are extreme¬ ly narrow; in many places I observed vestiges of a causeway, paved with large flag stone; in some parts there was little more than a path way in the midst of this broad road, but in others the whole cause¬ way, remained entire and swelling, tho’ furrowed with the tracks of horses.- These appearances are peculiarly striking about half a m. beyond Bydwelity church, near which are remains of a strong entrench¬ ment. I traced it only 4 m. but I am in¬ formed by gentlemen who have much frequented these mountains for growse shooting, that it continues n. some m. farther, and then turns to the e. and n-e. over the moors, in a direction to Aberga¬ venny. This road is called by the natives Sam h{r, or the long paved causeway, a name which sufficiently bespeaks it to be roman; sarti in welsh having the same signification as stane, or street in english, Coxe’s Tour, intro. *24. From this summit which occupies the centre of the chain, a striking view of various mountains is presented : first. The Derry, rising from Abergavenny; then succeeds the bare and russet Brynaro, and opposite the last is the Skyrrid maw. To the n. of the Brynaro extends the long line of the black mountains, sweeping in a semicircular direction. To the w. of the black mountains rises a succession of eminences, stretching across Brecknock¬ shire. Beyond these mountains the eye glances over the fertile parts of Mon¬ mouthshire, and Herefordshire, backed by the distant hills in the counties of Wor¬ cester, Glocester, and Somerset, and in¬ tersected by the estuary of the Severn. At the foot of the Gaer stretches a part of the forest of Moyle. Excursions from Abergavenny are frequently made to Blaenavon Iron IVorks, distant about six miles. The road passes the Usk by a stone bridge along the plain, between the river and the Blorenge, and crosses the summit of the mountain. 350 men are employed in these works. The iron is conveyed to the canal on rail-ways. The tourist may take the road to Pont y Pool, leading down the valley of the Avon Lwyd. Two high roads lead from Abergaven¬ ny to Monmouth ; oneby Coldbrook-House through Bryngwyn, Tregaer, and Dynas- tow ; and the other, shorter but more hil- y, through Llanvaply, Llandcilo Cresseney, and Rochfield. Llandcilo Cresseney, mid¬ way between Abergavenny and Mon¬ mouth, is the seat of Richard Lewis, esq., standing in a fertile, enclosed, and richly wooded country, commanding extensive 29 ABERGAVENNY. 30 Views of the distant hills and mountains, hill an extensive view of the Usk may be It was the seat of a younger branch of the seen, gliding behind a fertilized hill. Powels. On the extinction of the male Leaving the direct road to Monmouth to line, it came by marriage into the family the left, keep to the right, to Ragland. of Lewis. Among the portraits here pre- Proceeding three miles, Dynastow Court served is that of the eccentric James How- is on the r. In early times an imaged ell, author of the “ Familiar Letters.” party, after, storming Abetgavenny, came In a field adjoining Llandeilo-house, is hither and made a general carnage; Ra¬ the site of Old Court, once the residence nulph the governor, and other active de- of the celebrated Sir David Gam. Hewas fenders fell the victims. Tho’ often men- knighted for his services at the battle of tioned as a castle, this building seems to Agincourt, by king Henry 5, on the field have been little more than a manor-house, of death. To the south of the high-road It was among the places which the deca- are the sequestered ruins of the Abbey of pitated earl of Pembroke died possessed Grace Dicu, founded in 1229, by John of of in 1469. It came afterwards into the Monmouth. On the road to Mon- family of Jones, was purchased by Mr. mouth visit Ragland Castle. Leav- Duberly, and is now the residence of Su¬ ing Abergavenny keep by the side of the muel Bosanquet. esq, of London. After ground belonging the park of Sir Han- passing 3 m. of pleasing scenery enter bury Williams, where the hand of art has Monmouth. Advancing towards Crick- been successfully busy. Behind, the lit- howel, the country opens in a magni- tle Skyrrid rears it’s variegated head, ficent manner. The vale of the Usk is From this place the vale becomes mor e extremely fine. expanded, by the fantastic Usk. Mr. To the Hay, at about two miles from Manby in passing this way thus express- Abergavenny is Llamleilo Bcrthully, in es his ideas . “ Beautiful as had been the which parish Ticy Dee is situated, whole of the ride from Brecon it was The Church is an ancient building, here outdone, all the stores of Nature in the early style of gothic architcc- having been exhausted in presenting au ture, standing upon the eastern bank of expanse of the most pleasing interming- the Gavenny. A curious deed is preserv- led beauties. Never did I see a country ed in this Church, in a chest, under 3 more designed for happiness.” At the locks, containing a grant of pasturage 5th mile-stone on the r. is the seat of the and other liberties in the forest of Moyle, rev. dr. Hooper, interestingly embellish- from Jasper, duke of Bedford, as lord of ed. On the 1. is the neat cottage of- Abergavenny, to the parishioners. At a Green, esq. Beyond is a plantation of short distance is the White House, the re¬ firs by the road side, bespeaking the ap- sidence of the Floyers. Three m. further proach of some mansion. It is Clylha, is the village of Llanvihangel Crickltornell, the seat of W. Jones, esq. The entrance [see p. 17.] Cross the Honddy river and is through alight gothic arch. The pleas- proceed 4 m. to Oldcastlc, leaving on the ure-ground is laid out with much taste 1. a house called Treuiyn, and on the r. and judgment. The mansion is also goth- another called Alltyrynys, in a singularly ic, placed upon a summit, commanding picturesque situation, beneath the junc- views exquisitely beautiful. The resi- tion of the Honddy and the Monnow, a dence of dr. Hooper is hence peculiarly seat of the Cecil family. Oldcnslle is a attractive, and the grounds behind are little village delightfully situated upon tastefully improved. Upon an eminence the e. slope of the black mountains, which opposite to Clytha is a castellated build- skirt the vale of Ezoias. It is supposed by ing, erected as a monument of domestic Gale and Stukely to have been the an- affection, to a woman of uncomman ex- cient Blcstium of Antoninus, an opinion cellence, the heiress of the house of founded merely on the discovery of a few Tredegar, who with her hand bestowed roman coins. It is however true that on the present proprietor a very splendid several encampments near the spot wear fortune. To the 1. is Llanarth. [see Mon- a roman character. The place has been mouth.] On reaching the summit of the noticed from the circumstance of having 31 been the residence ol sir John Oldcastle, lord Cobham, the companion of Henry 5, afterwards chief of the L.ollards, and mar¬ tyr to their religious views. This castle has been taken down and a farm-house constructed with the materials. Proceed with the Hatleril hills, upon the 1. 2 m. to Longtown, a township and chapelry in the parish of Cludock.near Golden Vale, containing 116 houses and T6S inhabi¬ tants. Michael Church lies about 4J m. distant, a small place containing only 23 houses and 116 inhabitants. It is about 9 m. from Hay. From Abergavenny, the Gentleman Tourist in Monmouthshire, in directing his course to Pont y Pool forded the riv¬ er in order to avoid going 1 m. round to the bridge. After remarking that th eBlo. tenge is a grand object, from the main- street of Abergavenny, he observes that « besides the infinite variety of pictur¬ esque scenery which attaches to this moun¬ tain, the prospects from the ascent are ex¬ tensive and infinitely luxuriant. The highest summit is only accessible on one side, as it’s barren top towers very high a- bove the woods and fields which adorn it's lower part. Blaen Avon is a large village situated in a bleak and mountainous country, constantly involved in smoke, e- mitted in thick clouds from the contigu¬ ous iron-works. The Church is however remarkably neat. “ Hence,” says our Tourist, “ vie followed,” for he had that mostdcsirableand charming of accompan¬ iments on a journey, a congenial compani¬ on ; “ we followed no beaten track, but explored the dreariness of a heath, where no tracks had been impressed, except by themountain sheep. Persisting in this rug- gid course, and regardless of every obsta¬ cle, we walked forward, and soon found ourselves upon the brow of a mountain. We saw the Severn at a great distance, admixed with vapour, and by the assist¬ ance of a pocket telescope discovered the town of Pont y Pool. The features of the country being clear, we hastily descend¬ ed, and followed a foot path leading through a romantic tract of hollow dells and yawning precipices overhung with wood. The Rail-road was now the best way to Pont y Pool. Turnpike-road to Crickhowel. At 32 a short distance, on r. Ilill-house, Thomas Morgan, esq.; and Brichet-house, also T. Morgan ; and on the 1. Llanfoist-house, F. Chambre, esq. to Pcntra, 1§ m.; Llan- gruinney ; Inn, the Bell, 2|r m. (near, on the r. Sunny-Bank, Cha. Cracroft, esq; on 1. Dany Craig, J. Wood, esq.) At a short distance cross the Grunnv river, which runs on the 1. to the Usk. Crickhowel, 1 m. 7 f. amounting to 6 m. 1 f. To Brecon, 20 miles, Barber. — Monmouth, 16J miles, Coxe; Manby. — Ragland Castle, 9 miles, J. Evans; Wyndham. — Crickhowel, C miles, Warner. — Lhniliony Abbev, 11 miles, Skrine. — Llandulas, 2 miles. Pennant. From St. Asaph, 6^ miles, Bingley; Skrine, -Llandidno, 16 miles, Aikin. -Rhyddlan, 5 miles, Warner. - Conwy, 11 miles, Wyndham ; Pennant. - Diserth, 8 miles. ABERGELEY is a village of Denbigh¬ shire, of considerable resort on account of it’s large cattle-fairs. It is also fre¬ quented, in the bathing season, there be¬ ing excellent sands for walking, and the neighbourhood abounds with much beau¬ tiful scenery. It is situated upon the edge of Rliuddlan Marsh, and consists of one street. The Bee here is the only inn but lodgings for bathers may be had at private houses. It contained in 1801, 302 houses, and 1748 inhabitants. The mail arrives 25 min. past 7 in the morning and departs at 40 min. past 4 in the afternoon. Having passed this village, on the road to Llandulas, the sea is beheld on the r. and a range of low rocks on the 1. from the foot of which meadows and arable fields extend nearly to the water. In the neighbouring parish of Cegidoc, or Saint George, (on the road to St. Asaph) upon the top of a hill called Pen y Parc, is a very strong post, said to have been occupied by Owen Gwynedd, after his fine retreat before Plenty 2. Kinma- el-house and park, the residence of the rev. Edward Hughes, are upon a decliv¬ ity on the 1. A more splendid man¬ sion stationed at a short distance from the former, was completed in 1810 ; the park is finely wooded, and well stocked with deer. The gateway from Abergeley is ver- y highly finished, with egyptian lions up¬ on the pediments ; goats heads support the cornishes, &c. In a wet situation ABERGELEY. 33 A BEUYS WITH beneath is Vaenol, one of the best old 3-1 houses in the county of Flint; built in 1595, by John Lloyd. In this neighbour¬ hood are Bodlewithan, a seat of the Wil¬ liams ; and Pengwern, a new house built upon the site of an old one by sir Ed¬ ward Lloyd, bart. Mr. Pennant passed hence through Ruddland and Newmarket, to the comforts of his fire-side. A huge calcarious rock, at the termination of ] m. called Cefn-Ogo, particularly struck the attention of Mr. Warner, in which he ob¬ served many natural caverns, penetrating the side of the mountain. To one called Ogo, he ascended; it’s mouth resembled the arched entrance of a gothic cathedral, divided within into 2 apartments. This place is also called Cave hill, at the dis¬ tance of 1J m. from Abergeley, is a spot al¬ most unknown, except to the rude inhab¬ itants of the neighbourhood. It derives it’s name from the contiguous immense caverns, which arc said to be of unfathom¬ able extent. This hill closely overlooks the expanded bosom of the ocean, and commands one of the most varied and de¬ lightful prospects. To the e. is an unin¬ terrupted view of St. Asaph, the beauti¬ ful vale of Clywd, and the Flintshire mountains; along the coast is presented a considerable part of the counties of Chesh¬ ire and Lancashire, with the fine com¬ mercial town of Liverpool; sweeping the To the Passage-house, tl| miles, ami Conway ^ mile; Warner. End of Mr. Pennant’s Journey to Snowdon. To Rhuddlan, 6 miles, Skrine. — Conwy, It miles. / + /-A From Machynlleth, 18 miles, Aikin. - Aberaeron, 22 miles, Barber; Skrine. - Aberaeron, (through Llamysted,) lSiniles, Wyndham - Pont y Monach, 12 miles, Malkin; War¬ ner ; Lipscomb. - Newcastle in Emlyn, 38 miles, Evans. - Towyn, 12 miles, Warner. -■— Llanbadern vawr, H miles, W yndliam’s 2d tour. ABERYSTWITH, i. e. the mouth of the Ystwith, in Cardiganshire is a pleasant summer retreat situated on the conflux of the rivers Ystwith and Rheiddol. This place has greatly improved of late, form¬ ing at present the largest town in the county, and the roads to it have been made equal to the best in England. It was once fortified with walls by Gilbert de Clare and Waller Bee, part of which, stripped of it’s facing, still remains on the side next the sea. Here are three very good inns and a handsome town-hall, under which the market is held. The hall was used also as a playhouse, but another building has been erected for this purpose. Many of the new houses are the property of sir Thomas Bonsai, knt. of Fronfraith. As¬ semblies are held here during the sum- horizon, you obtain a distant view of the mer » ai ‘d the place bids fair to rival the Isle of Man ; and, more westerly that of English watering-places. There are two Anglesea: the circle closes with the tre¬ mendous mountains of Caernarvonshire. The credulity of the honest sons of Cad- wallader in tlais district is so strongly mix¬ ed with superstitious faith, as to cause them implicity to believe that these caverns are haunted; and the old women shew theen_ trances with countenances full of gravity, assuring the stranger that the passage of one leads directly under London-bridge, weekly markets, Mondays for butter, cheese, fruit, &c. and Saturdays for flesh- meat. The first mondays in November, and May are called Hireling mondays, Dywllun y cyflogan, where great num¬ bers of servants attend for the purpose of being hired. The coast is grand and the marine prospect particularly fine. The rocks are lofty, black, and excavated. The bathing here is well conducted ; and and the other to Chester. “ The wood- in general there is a good sandy bottom bine-covered cot, and grass-green plat,” of lieut. Benjamin Smith, of the royal na¬ vy, is situated upon Cave hill, who com¬ mands a post station there for the purpose of guard.ng the coast from the attempts of an enemy. European Mag. v. lii, p. 210. Upon one of the high lime-stone cliffs, is a mount called Cajipa yr Wylfa, an ancient british post. To Llandulas, 3 m. Bingley; Warner’s 2d Walk. — St. Asaph, miles, Atkin; Wyndham. To 3 at all hours of the tide, notwithstanding the beach is wholly composed of pebbles. The number of ships registered in the port at Aberystwith is 210, the tonnage 8120, and the seamen employed '762. The larg¬ est vessel is 207 tons, the smallest 18. There is about 14 feet of water on the bar at spring tides. A custom-house has been erected here in consequence of increasing trade. The exports are lead and calamine, procured from the mines near Plinlimmon, 35 ABERYSTWITH. 36 o.ik bark, and some manufactured goods, such as webs, flannels, and stockings; which are chiefly sent to Bristol and Liv¬ erpool. It imports cast iron goods, from Coalbrook dale, shipped at Bristol; lime, groceries, and porter from Bristol; grain from Liverpool and Ireland, and coals from the s. counties of Wales. A consid¬ erable fishery is carried on here. Cod, mackerel, herrings, &c. are sent as far as Shrewsbury; the rest are salted, and with potatoes, constitute the principal food of the labouring poor during winter. The harbour is neither large nor commodious, the bar at the entrance preventing ships of any considerable burden from advancing, except at spring-tides. Mr. Meyrick says, “ Were livo piers made upon those ridges of the rock called the Weeg, which afford the strongest foundations, the harbour would be handsome, capacious, and con¬ venient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road to the n. of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into the sea, for the Rhyddol, just at the angle it makes when it takes a s-w. course, an excellent back water would be at hand, and would clear away any bar that might be formed at the mouth of the harbour, and keep it free from mud.” The Castle, seated on a craggy emi¬ nence, projecting into the sea, w. of the town, was founded by Gilbert de Strong- bow, son of Richard de Clare, in the reign of Henry 1, but soon after it’s erection it fell into the hands of the welsh princes, and was destroyed in their intestine quar¬ rels. Powell says, that the present castle was built by Edward, anno 1277. It ap¬ pears to have been a strong place, as a garrison of King Charles kept it in pos¬ session for some time after his death. On the n-w. is part of a tower about 40 feet high, and an arched door-way is still preserved. A round tower is also exist¬ ing. Another tower has been repaired, and converted into a kind of observatory, or prospect-room. The castle now be¬ longs to colonel Johnes, m. p. of Havod Uchdryd, who having granted a lease of it to mr. Probart, of Shrewsbury, steward to earl Powis, he has converted it into an excellent promenade. Before the sea had much encroached upon the shore, a castle had .been erected at the mouth of the Rh'eiddol. The old Church stood to the iv. of the town, between the house of la¬ dy Price and the Castle. The present Church was erected by subscription, with¬ in the precincts of the old castle and de¬ dicated to St. Michael. The gallery was presented by mrs. Margaret Pryse, a. d. 1790, who lies buried in the chancel of Llanbadarn vawr. It is a perpetual cura¬ cy. The town is governed by a mayor ; it’s burgesses, in conjunction with Cardi¬ gan, return one member to parliament. An agreeable public walk is traced through the ruin; near which mr.Uvedale Price has erected a singular building for his summer residence. It is in the gothic style, and castellated form, consisting of three octagon towers, with a balcony to¬ wards the sea. The elevated situation of the castle commands a magnificent view of the whole extent of that line of welsh coast which is included in Cardigan-bay. This vast curve is formed by the project¬ ing counties of Caernarvon to the n. and Pembroke to the s. the coasts of Merion¬ eth and Cardigan fill up the centre. A- berystwith, is about the middle of the bay, whence may be seen to the n. a long ir¬ regular line of distance, formed at first by the projecting coast of Merioneth, and then continued out to sea by the long mountainous promontory of Caernarvon, which is terminated by the isle of Bardsey. There is no situation s. of Caernarvon¬ shire, from which the welsh alps may be seen so advantageously as Aberystwith castle, or some of the surrounding cliffs. The lofty hills which confine the estuary of the Dovey, and raise their broad backs far above the Cardigan rocks, are surmount¬ ed by Cader Idris and it’s subject cliffs; these are overtopped by the giant moun¬ tains of Caernarvonshire ; among which in clear weather, the sharp peak of Snow¬ don itself may be discerned pre-eminent above the surrounding crags. To the s. of Aberystwith, the coast of Pembroke, being less curved and not so lofty at the n. limit of the bay, the line of boundary appears more uniform. This wide ex¬ panse of water, diversified by numerous vessels in every direction, some steering for Pwlhelli, Crickeath, Barmouth, Aber¬ ystwith, Aberdovy, Cardigan, or other ports in the bay : some further out to sea, slowly urging on to reach Liverpool, or Bristol, or some of the irish havens: while 37 ABERYSTWITH. 33 others, almost stationary, busily employed in fishing, produce a very amusing and pleasing spectacle. N. of the castle is a j level beach, a few hundred yards in length, to which succeeds a long range of high slate rocks, worn into caverns and recesses, by the dashing of the waves, and affording a secure abode for hawks, ra¬ vens, and various species of gulls and oth¬ er sea-birds. At the foot of these cliffs extends a reef of low rocks, the crevices and pools of which are adorned with nu¬ merous beautiful corallines and fuci, and enlivened by different kinds of shell-fish and marine animals ; at high tide they are covered. A long stone bridge, crosses the Rhydiol near Aberystwith, on the oth¬ er side of which rises a hill. Upon it's summit is a large intrenchment, which is vulgarly ascribed to Oliver Cromwell, but which the learned give to Rhys ap Gruf- fydd, who encamped his forces here in 1117. The value of Lands in these parts, says a Tourist of 1805, varies exceedingly, ac¬ cording to it’s situation. Near the towns it reaches 3/. per acre; land of the same quality, at a distance lets from 15s to 25s. The sheep-walks upon the hills are from 6d to 9tl an acre; and the average price of land by the year throughout Cardigan¬ shire, cannot exceed 5s per acre. Many of the mountains bid defiance to cultiva¬ tion, furnishing, only a miserable subsis¬ tence for a few sheep. The princi¬ pal Mines in this vicinity, are Cwmystmth, belonging to sir Thomas Bonsall : Clver- nog and Cwmsumlog, the property of mr. Pryse, ofGogerthan : the latter is the mine from which sir Hugh Middleton, who conducted the new river to London, de¬ rived the wealth which enabled him to perform that vast design. The veins of lead ore run directly e. and w. or n. and s. Among the more common plants, J. Ev¬ ans found in this neighbourhood, Scilla verna, Triglochin maritimum, Statice ar- mcria, Plantago maritima, P. coronopus, Cucubalus otites, Glaucium luteum, Coch- learia officinalis, Anthyllis vulneraria, Convolvulus soldanella, Elymus arenar - us, Nymphaea alba, Euphorbia peplis, Pul- monaria maritima. The turnpike road to Pont y Mon- ach, whieh lies chiefly over uncultivated hills on the s-w. side of the vale of Rhy¬ diol, at the distance of 12 m. from Aber¬ ystwith, contains some striking scenery. The vale of the Rhydiol gradually con- racts into a deep glen, the rocky banks of which are clothed with plantations, and at the bottom runs a rapid current. Mr. Evans entered the Vale of Rhydiol at the village of Llanbadekn Vawr, supposed to be the Maurilana, where St. Paternus founded a monastery, and an episcopal see, in the 6th century. (Since this time it has been united to that of St. Davids.) The vale here becomes inclosed with lof¬ ty mountains, adorned with verdure, and interspersed with bare cliffs and frowning crags. At the feet of these the river struggles through the huge fragments of rock which obstruct it’s course, in angry and tumultuous roar. At Pont y Pren, or Mclincwm Rhydiol, within 1 \ m. of the Ha- fod-arms, is a striking scene. On one side of the river, dark rocks rise to nearly 400 feet, opposed on the other by inferior cliffs; through a chasm between, issues a mountain stream, forming a delightful cas¬ cade. In this sequestered spot is a grist¬ mill, the access to which is upon abridge formed of the trunk of a tree. This turn¬ pike road from Aberystwith forms a long but gradual ascent, affording a favourable view of the vale of the Rhydiol. From 2 or 3 points of the ridge upon which the road runs, may be seen both the Rhyddi- ol and Ystwith. Skirting the hills which bound the former, observe the winding of the vale and the different fig¬ ures it assumes as the bases of the hills project or retire. The lowest ground is sufficiently fertile, and the hill-sides are enclosed and cultivated to a considerable height. Advancing, hills are in front, and on the 1. they appear like waves one be¬ yond another, to the base of Plinlimmon. The new road commands a greater variety of scenery than the old, as the Rhydiol is constantly in view. After passing the 9th mile-stone, the vale of the Rhydiol is seen to contract, and the banks become more woody and abrupt. At length the road winding round the back of a craggy hill produces a view of the falls of the Rhydiol, near Pont y Monach. On the road to Tufgaron, Kanleos, a family mansion belonging to the Powels, first occurs on the 1. The situation is ver- y agreeable being enclosed by moderate 39 ABERYSTW1TH. 40 hills, and open towards the sea. The house is large, substantial, and plainly handsome. Trawscoed or Crosswood Park., the seat of the lion. col. Vaughan, mem¬ ber for the borough of Cardigan, is a ver- y ancient place, yet has infinite attrac¬ tions for the lovers of the rural and pic¬ turesque. The scenery is various and de¬ lightful, and the spot might be rendered a paradise. At the village of Ltanafan and Llannwnws, composed of a few scat¬ tered houses, vve enter upon a high and dreary common of stones and barrenness, the ascent to which is long and fatiguing. This is the s-w. extremity of that ridge, which terminates with Eglwys Newydd on the n-e. In descending the hill on the s-e., the first indication of anything a- greeable is the village and neighbourhood of Ystrad Mirk. There is here, on the side of the declivity, a woody shelter which derives a double charm from con¬ trast, and gives a picturesque effect to some grand masses of rock. This retrcat among the mountains, contains, besides a mouldered Castle, a School endowed by the late Edward Richard, a self-taught scholar,native of this place and many years masterot the establishment. The descent continues to the plain, through which the Mirk passes. The river is to be crossed before you reach Ventre Phydvendigol, a hamlet on the banks of the Teivy, but in which there is the accommodation of a bed. Strata Florida, with it’s ruined Abbey, a religious house of great repute in monastic annals, was founded by Rhys ap Gruffydd, in the year 1164. He was son of Gruffydd ap Rhys ap Theodor, and died of a pestilential disorder in the year 1137. The ancient writers have been very pro¬ fuse in his praise. In Higden’s Polychro- nicon we find the following curious char¬ acter of Rhys. “ O blysse of batayle! chylde of chyvalry ! defenceofcountrce 1 worshypp of armes! arme of strength ! handeof largcnesse ! eye of reson ! brygt- nesse of honeste I berynge in breste Hec- tour’s prowesse, Achilles’s sharpnesse, Nestour’ssobernesse,Tydeus’hardynesse, Sampson’s strengthe, Hectour’s worthy- nesse, Eurialus’ swyftness, Ulyxe’s fayre speche, Solomon’swysdome, Ajax’shard- ynesse! Oclothyngeofnaked ! the hun- gryes mete ! fulfyllynge all mennes bone that him wolde ought bydde ! O fayre in speche ! felowe in servyce! honeste of dede, and sobre in vvorde! Gladde of semblaunt, and love in face ! goodly to every man, and rightful to all! The no¬ ble dyademe of fayrnesse of Wales is now fallen. That is, Rees is deed! All Wales gronyth, Rees is deed ! the name is not loste, but blysse passyth, the blysse of Wales passyth, Rees is deed! worshypp of the worlde gooth awaye. The enemy is here, for Rees is not here. Now Wales helpith not itself. Rees is deed, and take awaye. But his noble soul is not deed, for it is alway new in the worlde wyde* This place holdy th grete worshypp yf the byrthe is beholde. Of men axe what is the ende, It is ashes and powder. Here he is hydde, but he is unhylled, for name duryth evermore, and sufifryth not the no¬ ble duke to be hydde of speche. His prowesse passed his maners. His wytte passed his prowesse. His fayre speche passed his wytte. His good ,thewes pas¬ sed his fayre speche.” Some part of the cloister and infirmatory may be traced. A guide should be procured to visit Llyn Teify or Teivy pool, which is in the moun¬ tain about 2 m. to the n-e. of Strata flori- da. Upon the top of this mountain are 5 lakes of which Teivy is the principal. It’s circumference may probably be about 1§ miles. It is said not to have been fathomed, and is encompassed by a high and perpendicular ridge, which at once feeds and confines it’s everlaslasting wa¬ ters. It has been thought by some to be a crater, but the stones upon the margins bear no volcanic appearance. Leland says, “ Of al the pooles none stondeth in so rokky and stony soile as Tyve doth, that hath withyn hym many stonis. The ground al about Tyve, and a great mile of towards Stratfler is horrible with the sighte of bare stones, as cregeryri moun¬ tains be. Llin Tyve is in cumpare a iii quarters of a m. being ii m. be e. from Strateflere. It is fedde fro hyer places with a little broket, and issueth out a- gain by a smaulle gut. Ther is in it veri good trouttes andelys,and no other fisch. Tyve (river) reunith from the hedde stil almost playne vv, antilie he touchith with¬ in a vi m. of Cuirmardin, and these turn- eth towards the n.” To return from the lakes to the Teivy, and follow it through the vale, is a tedious reach, without su(- 41 ABERYSTWITH. 42 ficiently corresponding interest. The guide will conduct you across the hills, to Tregaron, the chain of which runs, without a single break, from Lanbeder to Bishop’s Castle in Shropshire ; a space of about 60 m. It might be traversed on horseback without the interruption of a single gate or fence, without any path, and probably without seeing a human creature. On the road to Cardigan, the vale of Istwid, with the romantic bridge, vener¬ ably clothed with ivy, near Llanchaiarn Castle, is the first interesting point; im¬ mediately afterwards, at Chancery, the hills rising abruptly, shut out the county on the 1, and leave a very fine sea view. About Gnrengyr the country is pleasing. Tavern. Spite is an hospitium of latter times, open to all travellers, on condition ofpayingfortheiraccommodations. Near Moel ivor, on the r. hand of the road, are 2 druidic monuments. Llanrhystidd stands on the banks of the little river H'irrai, near where it falls into the sea. There are some interesting traces of monastic in¬ stitution at this village. Llansantfraid, 10 m. which has an ancient church. The river Perris fall into the sea near Llannon. The village of Morva stands near another little brook ; the Church is near the sea¬ side. Beyond this place is a very steep hill, with the road winding to the r. turn¬ ing upon the cliff and leading unexpect¬ edly to the pleasing and interesting vil¬ lage of Llan ddewy Aberarth. Aberaeron, another pleasing village, about 2 m. fur¬ ther. A bridge over the Aeron is highly picturesque. After which you mount a hill. On the coast, between Aberaeron and Llanarth , are the fragments of a small castle. Llandysiliogogo lies out of the road nearthe shore. Up the hill of SynodFin- rwnddewj, where the Bidder is crossed, there is a very fine view of Cardigan bay. A tedious journey over a rocky’track, dis¬ poses the traveller to be pleased with the sheltered situation of the Nciv Inn, at the bottom of the hill. Pidlglas is in the par¬ ish of Pebyrn, the church of which is on the r. hand near the sea-shore. Castcll Nadolig is a british encampment, very large, and double trenched. Two m. fur¬ ther, at Blaenporth, there is another not so large. The descent to Newcastle in Emlyn is considerable, but the prospect improves momentarily as you approach the vale of Teivy. The bridge over Ker¬ ry affords a pleasing view of that river near it’s junction with the Teivy. [See pages 9, 39]. On the road to Machynlleth, at the 1st m. on the 1. is Penglais, built by Rod- eric Richards, who left it to William Rich¬ ards, his son, father of the present proprie¬ tor. It stands in a commanding and de¬ lightful situation. At the 2d m. a road deviates to the r. to Fronfraith the seat of sir Thomas Bonsai, knt. formerly the prop¬ erty of Lloyd of Tan y Castell. At the Sd m. pass Pont rhydhtr ; or the r. Goger- than the mansion of Pryse Lovedon who succeeded to this estate in right of his mother and took the name of Pryse. Tiiis spot is celebrated as the birth-place of Rhydderch al> Jcvan Llwyd, a poet of the first rank, who lived in the next age after Dafydd ab Gwilym : he was owner of this estate and brought up at Oxford. In 1759 as some labourers were digging for turf in Gorsfochno, they turned up a tanned leathern quarter boot. It was presented to John Pugh Pryse, esq. who took it out of the country. At the 5th m. pass Par y gnra Cupel. Half a m. furthera road de¬ viates to the l.to Llunvihangle gemm’r glyn, called also Llanvihangle at castell Gualter. The Castle, called Castell Gualter, was built by Walter Lsptc, or Especke to protect his territories. It was destroyed in 1135, by Cadwailader and Owain Gw'yneth.sonsof Grufydd ab Cynan. The Church stands upon the brow of the hill below the castle, built in the form of a cross, and neatly fitted up. It is a vicar¬ age in the gift of the bishop of St Davids. The font is an ancient hexagonal bason. On Cwmswrylog hill are the remains of a chapel erected by sir Hugh Middleton, in the reign of James 1, for the use of his miners. In this parish are several dru¬ idic structures. The most remarkable is that called Gveely Taliesin or Taliesin’s bed, situated upon Pen sarn ddu, between the rivers Ceulan and Clcttwr. This Talies¬ in ben beirdd, flourished about 540, but as he was a pious Christian, rar. Meyriek is of opinion that the emblem of a cross would have been attached to his tomb, and therefore infers that this is not the grave of Taliesin, who spent the latter part of his life in N. Wales, and was ptob- 43 ABERYSTWITH: 44 bably buried there. A large heap of earth is surrounded by two circles of stones, the innermost of which is 27 feet in diame¬ ter, and the outer about 31 feet. In the centre is the gwely, composed of 6 stones, 5 making an oblong chest and another for a cover. The cover has been taken ofF and thrown on one side. Many years ago was found in this chest a human scull, but whether the skull of a sacrificed vic¬ tim or the remnant of an arch druid, af¬ fords subject of conjecture. In a field called Letty ngharad bach, belonging to the farm of Yuerglawdd, are 2 stones, one of which has a prismatic shape and sev¬ eral circular excavations upon it’s sides, doubtless used by the druids in their sacrifices. Upon the top of Pembryn pel- lau is a cistfaen ; and upon Moel JJyn is a carnedd. At Llwijn Gifts, belonging to mr. John Hughes, is preserved one of those long knives called Cylleth hirion. It is 14 inches long including the handle, which is horn, ornamented with brass; the blade is inlaid with gold. This kind of knife was used by the Saxons in the time of Gwrtheyrn or Vortigern, king of Brit¬ ain. A remarkable incident is connect¬ ed with the use of these knives. Gwr¬ theyrn after the death of Gwrlhevyr was elected king tho’ he had before been de¬ posed for bad conduct. Rowena know¬ ing his pusillanimity, sent messengers to Germany to inform her father of this event. Hengist immediately raised 300,000 arm¬ ed men, and sailed for Britain, but the britons prevented them from landing. On this Hengist had recourse to stratagem and perfidy ; he pretended to have come to assist Gwrtheyrn to regain his crown, who permitted the Saxons to land. Hen¬ gist appointed the first of May following for a conference, both parties being to meet upon Salisbury plain, unarmed. Hengist then privately directed his no¬ bles and knights to bring each a Cylleth hirion concealed in his sleeve, and that on his pronouncing the words “ Nemet cour saxes,” take your knives, each should kill the briton next to him. Thus were 300 noblemen massacred. Of the british princes none escaped except Eidiol, earl of Glocester, who perceiving a pole up¬ on the ground seized it, with which he slew 70 of the Saxons. From Llanvihangle, a track leads by the Globe Inn, into the high road to Mac¬ hynlleth, with Elanfraed, on the 1. noted as the birth-place of that eminent natural¬ ist and antiquary, Edward Lloyd, an ac¬ count of whole life is in manuscript in the Ashmolean museum, and was published by the rev. N. Owen, with other papers, under the title of “ British Remains.” In a manuscript account of benefactors, at this museum, is a drawing of Edward Lloyd. On regaining the road, Macsnew- ydd on the r. proceeds 1 m. with the riv¬ er Lery on the 1. to Tal y bonl, 7 m. Pro¬ ceeding half a m. to Fenton las, on the 1. is Penpontbren, on the Ceau/an river, the property of Herbert Lloyd, attorney at law of Caermarthen, who brought it of Charles Griffiths about theyear 1799, whose fami¬ ly had resided here for many generations. At the 8th m. is Nantlay, and Eur glawdt/, where there is a,mine producing lead ore and quartz. Half a m. further pass Troed rhiw fedwen, and Tafarn Jack. On the 1. lies that immense tract of.land called Gors voclino bounded on the n. by the river Do* vey. Near the shore called Birds point it a tumulus called Moelynys, or Tommen l^s. A sand near it is called Traeth Muel- gwn. A little beyond the 9th m. cross the Qlyitwr, 1 m. To the 1. is Llangynvelin, stationed upon high ground, celebrated as the birth-place of Deio ab Jevan Du, who flourished about the year 1480. The Church, dedicated to Cynvelyn, the saint who founded a church at Welsh Pool, con¬ sists simply of a nave, and has a porch with an ancient pointed arch. In the in¬ side are the remains of an ancient carved screen. It stands delightfully, overlook¬ ing the immense plain Gors Voshno. It is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the Chichester family. Near the 10th m. pass the Park-gate, on the 1. is Lodge- Park, originally Bod vrigau, belonging to the Pryses of Gogerthan. Half a m. further pass a brook at Mill Lodge. On the 1. is Ttj Carr eg. At the 11th m. is Cue mawr. Cross the Einon at Dovcy Furnace, where formerly iron ore was melted into pigs. It was erected in 1755 by Vernon, Kendal, & Co. Just beyond at the 12th m. is Eglwys Facli, called also Llanvihangle Lapel Edwin, founded by John Lloyd, of Ynys Hir, a. d. 1723. This church is a neat little building. The en¬ trance to it’s cemetery is through an an- 45 ABERYSTWITH. tique-Iooking gateway. Over the s. win¬ dow of the chancel is the following in¬ scription ; HEC EC’C ERE’C PER IOHE LLOYD an’o di’n 1623. Cross a tributary to the Einon near Cymmerau on the r. and Melin Ddwr on thel. At the 13th m. is the trad¬ ing village of Garreg. The road for the remainder of the rout lies on the eastern banks of the Dovey, leaving Gogarth, and Penmaen at a little distance on the w. side. Plinlimmon appears at the distance of 7 or 8 m. to the s-e. Pont y monach and Hafod, are objects of considerable attraction to the visitants at Aberystwith. The former is general¬ ly taken in the way to the latter. A track on the n. side of the Rhydiol con¬ tains a greater variety of objects, but the highroad is fittest for carriages. In¬ stead of crossing the Rhydiol along the turnpike road, to the s-, pass eastward through Northgate to Llanbadern vawr, a parish which contains several manors, and is described in it’s alphabetic place. Thence along the banks of the river, leav¬ ing a mill (Melin y person) upon the r. gain the river’s side of Nanteirio. On the 1. is Fronfraith, the seat of Sir T. Bronsall. You next enter Cwm Rhydiol, passing a- long the banks of that river for 8 m. fur¬ ther, before you reach Pont y Monach. (which see.) The return from Hafod might be made along the Ystwith, by way of Spytly Ystwith, or the hospilium of the Ystwith. This church stands upon a rock commanding a delightfulprospect of Maen Arthur wood, the property of the earl of Lisburne, upon the top of which is Grog, wynion, the residence of the incumbent of Llanavan, from which is a fine fall of wa¬ ter. Cross the river at Blaen ddol ucha proceed nearly 2 m. to Llanavan, situated at a very picturesque bend of the Ystwith. The Church, dedicated to St. Avan, con¬ sists of a nave and s. transept, which last contains the pews of the Crosswood fam¬ ily, under which they have their vault. An avenue of yew-trees leads to this tran¬ sept from the entrance of the church-yard. Part of an ancient screen, yet remains. There is a curious silver dish used for bread at the sacrament, presented by one of the earls of Lisburne. Pass Capet, back to Crosswood or Traws-coed, the noble man¬ sion of the earls of Lisburne, now the re¬ sidence of the lion, colonel Vaughan, brother of the present carl. The house is large, the park handsome, and the farm in the highest state of cultivation. The hon.colonel Vaughan is heir presumptive. He married August 2, 1798, Lucy, sister to viscount Courtenay. A road on the r. of the park, leads to C-Jim mwydion, cross¬ ing the little river Magwyr. 1 m. beyond is Aherlnnant a seat belonging a family named Lloyd. The house has been suf¬ fered to decay, and is now occupied by a farmer. At a short distance, is Llanvihan- gl-y-crekldyn. The roman road called Barn Helen, from l.lania to Machynlleth, crosses this parish, in a farm called Brenan. At a small house called Lletty Synod, in an¬ cient times, the synods of the monks were often held. The Church is cruciform, with an immense high square tower in the centre, supported upon 4 pointed arch¬ es. It is a vicarage in the gift of the bish¬ op of St. Davids. Upon a hill, about 2 m. e. of the church, called Carcg Viha.ngel, are 3 tumali. At the distance of 2 m. leave Pen y wern on the 1. Nothing remark¬ able occupies the rest of the 7 m. from Llanvihangel, except Nanteos on the r, somewhat further than the midway. Dr Mavor made an Excursion round the environs of Aberystwith. He visited first Plas Grug, a fortified mansion on the banks of the Rhydiol, which tradition dis¬ tinguishes as the residence of several welsh princes. It is situa'ed upon an estate be¬ longing to Thomas Powell, esq. of Xan- tcos, near Aberystwith. The remains arc very considerable, and pleasingly situ¬ ated in a valley, which terminates with the town of Aberystwith. Of this mansion a square embattled tower appears very entire. A narrow passage leads into a quadrangular division, apparently a kitch¬ en, of which the outer walls are in good preservation. The apartments have been very spacious and numerous, as the re¬ maining walls evince; but the area is completely choked with fallen fragments. That this place has been a residence of the welsh princes is certain, being parti¬ cularly noticed by Eineon ap Gvvgan, who flourished about the year 1244. Of Llew¬ elyn the great he expresses himself to this purpose. His spear flashes in hands accustomed to mental , deeds; it kills, and puts it’s enemies to flight by the palace of the Rhydiol. 47 AMLWCH. 48 It was afterwards a residence of O-men Glyiulwr. [Cambrian Itin.—Pennant’s life of Glyndwr.] He then visited Llanba- babs Vawr, making a digression to Gog- erthan one of the residences of P. Pryse, esq. distant from Aberystwith 3 m. stand¬ ing upon a lawn between two very lofty mountains, one of which is covered with various kinds of pines and evergreens, and the other with oaks. A small river runs through the lawn near the house. A broad winding path through a wood from the r. of the road to Machynlleth, con¬ ducted him to Ledge Park, also belonging to P. Pryse, esq. The house stands upon a bold eminence, and commands some ex¬ quisitely fine views. In this park are some valuable mines, particularly one of silver, which of late years, has produced a considerable quantity ; the ore, howev¬ er, is not sufficiently rich to yield any great profit to the proprietor. He next di¬ rected his course to Muclynis, or the barren isle, which produces scarcely .any thing but rabits, and foxes to prey upon them. It is wholly surrounded by the sea, and the rivers Dovey and Lerry, with only one entrance by a stone bridge. Our tourist next rode along the sands to Borlh, once a roman station, but now a miserable fish¬ ing cottage, who observes, that to this place the companv from Aberystwith make excursions for the lake of enjoying the sea breezes. ToPonty Monach, 12 m. Barber; Evans; Skrine. — Ponty Monach and back, Aikin. — Towyn, i2 miles, Aikin. — Tregaron, 18 miles, Malkin. — Machynlleth, 18 m Wyndham; Warner. — Aberaeron, 15 miles, Warner’s 2d walk. — Plinlimmon, about 14 miles. — Llanbadarn vawr, 1 mile, Lipscomb. From Holyhead, 20 miles, Bingley. -Llanerchymedd, 6 miles, Aikin. - Beaumaris, 23 miles, Warner. - Llanelian, 1 mile, Pennant. AMLWCH, (probably from the name of a contiguous lake; or am about, and Lbxch, a sandy beach) on the n. coast of Anglesea, was in 1766, a village or ham¬ let, consisting of only 6 houses, but as the works of the Parys Mountain increased, this place also augmented to the size of a market town. The return made to gov_ ernment in 1801, stated the number of houses to be 1025, and the population at 4077. The Church is dedicated to St. Eleuth, a royal bard and saint, and is a neat structure. This place continued for a number of years in a very flourishing state, but at length the mines failed, and the proprietors being rich, became inac¬ tive, which greatly changed it’s character. The high table land of Trysclwyn will become important from the celebrated Parys Mountain (probably from a Robert Parys, who was chamberlain of North Wales, in the reign of Henry the fourth.) The aspect of this hill, rising into enormous rocks, is very rude, and the surround¬ ing vegetation is destroyed by suffocating fumes. Nothing has been observed to withstand the baneful effluvia besides the Melica caerulea. It is generally be¬ lieved that the Romans obtained copper ore from this mountain, for vestiges are yet left of what was taken for theiroperations; and some very ancient stone utensils have, at different times, been turned up. A round cakeof copperwas found at Llan- iaethlu, a few m. distant, weighing 50 lb. stamped with a mark resembling an L. From the time of the Romans to the year 1761, these 3 mines seem to have been entirely neglected. Many and repeat¬ ed attempts were made lrom the year 1762, to 1757, by sir Nicholas Bayley, without success, when messrs. Roe & Co. of Macclesfield took a lease of part of Pa¬ rys mountain, from sir Nicholas Bayley, fa¬ ther of Lord Uxbridge, which expired a- bout 1792. Considerable sums of money had been expended by the company in making levels to drain off the water, without any hopes of success : they had indeed nearly given up all farther at¬ tempts. Their agent was however deter* mined to make a final experiment in a" nother part of the mountain. This fortu¬ nately succeeded, for in less than 2 days, ore of almost pure copper was found, within two yards of the surface, which proved to be that vast bed since wrought to infinite advantage. The day of this dis¬ covery was the 2d of March, 1768, the anniversary of which has ever since been observed as a festival. The rev. Edward Hughes, a proprietor of part of this moun. taineous ridge, proved equally successful. The bed of ore was in some places more than 60 feet in thickness, and the proprie¬ tors at one period, are said to have ship¬ ped 20,000, tons annually. 49 The following is extracted from mr. Bingley’s account of his visit to the An- glesea Copper Mine, the most considerable body of copper-ore ever known. “ Having ascended to the top, I stood upon the verge of a vast and tremendous chasm. I step¬ ped upon one of the stages suspended o- ver the edge of the steep, and the pros¬ pect was dreadful. The number of cav¬ erns, at different’heights along the sides ; the broken and irregular masses of rock, which every where presented themselves; the multitudes of men at work in differ¬ ent parts, and apparently in the most per¬ ilous situations ; the motions of the wind¬ lasses, and the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the ore and the rub¬ bish ; the noise of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the wadding, ■when it was about to be blasted ; with at intervals, the roar of the blasts in distant parts of the mine, altogether excited the most sublime ideas, intermixed with sen¬ sations of terror. Leaving this situation, and following the road which leads into the mine, my astonishment was again ex¬ cited, the moment 1 entered. The shag¬ ged arches and overhanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to any one daring enough to approach them, when supperadded to the sulphureous smell a- lising from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, made it seem to me like the vesti¬ bule to Tartarus, described by Virgil. To look up from this situation and observe the people upon the stages, 150 feet a- bove one’s head; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of them in motion ; and to reflect, that a sin¬ gle stone casually thrown from above, or tailing from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a fellow-creature, a man must have a strong mind not to feel impressed with marry unpleasant sensations. The sides of this dreadful hollow are mostly per¬ pendicular. Along the edges are the stag¬ es with the whimsies by which the buck¬ ets are lowered; and from which the men descend to their stations upon the sides. Here suspended, the workman picks with an iron instrument, a place for a footing, whence he cuts out the ore, and tumbles it to the bottom, where it rests with a thundering crash. After working the place into a cavern he removes to a new station.” In the Parys mountain are 60 2 mines ; of these, that upon the e. side is called the Mona Mine, the entire prop¬ erty of the earl of Uxbridge. The Parys Mine is the joint property of the earl of Uxbridge and the rev. Edward Hughes, of Kinmael, near St Asaph. Mr. Aikin describes this immense un¬ dertaking as follows. “ The substance of the mountain being ore, the work is carried on in a very different manner from the custom of other mines. Here are comparatively few shafts or levels, the greater part being quarried out, so as to leave a vast excavation open to the day. The view down this steep and extensive hollow is singularly striking. The sides are chiefly of a deep yellow or dusky slate colour, streaked, however, here and there, by fine veins of blue or green, shooting across the cavern, mingled with seams of greyish yellow. The bottom of the pit is by no means regular, but exhibits large and deep burrows in various parts, where a richer vein has been followed in prefer¬ ence to the rest. Every corner of this vast excavation resounds with the noise of pickaxes and hammers, the sides are lined with workmen drawing up the ore from below; and at short intervals is heard, from different quarters, the loud explosion of the gunpowder, by which the rock is blasted, reverberated in pealing e- choes from every side. Aftertheoreisob- tained from the mine, it is broken into small pieces by the hammer (this being chiefly done by women and children),and piled into a kiln, to which is attached, by flues, a long sulphur chamber. It is now covered close; a little fire is applied in different places ; and the whole mass be¬ comes gradually kindled. The sulphur sublimes to the top of the kiln, whence the flues convey it to the chamber ap¬ pointed for it’s reception. This smould- ring heat is kept up for 6 months, during which the sulphur-chamber is cleared 4 times. At the expiration of this period the ore is sufficiently roasted. The poor¬ est of this, that is, such as contains from 1 s to 2 per cent, of metal, is then convey¬ ed to the smelting houses at Amlwch- port; the rest is sent to the company’s furnaces of Swansea, and Stanley, near, Liverpool. The greater part of the kilns are very long, about b feet high, and the sulphur-chambers are of the same length and height, connected by three flues, and AMLWCH. 51 AMLWCH. 52 on the same level with the kilns : some new ones, however, have been built at Amlwch-port, by which much sulphur is preserved which would have been dissi¬ pated in the old kilns. The new ones are made like lime-kilns, with a contrivance to take out at the bottom the roasted ore, and thus keep up a perpetual fire ; from the neck of the kiln branches off a single flue, which conveys the sulphur into a re¬ ceiving chamber, built upon the rock, so as to be on a level with the neck of the kiln, i. e. above the ore. The 2 smelt¬ ing houses, of which one belongs to each company, contain 31 reverberatory fur¬ naces, the chimneys of which are 41 feet high: they are charged every 5 hours with 12 cwt. of ore, which yields \ cwt. of rough copper, containing 50 per cent, of pure metal; the price of rough copper is about 9,1 10s per cwt. The coals are procured from Swansea and Liverpool, a great part of which is Wigan Slack. The sulphate of copper, however, is the richest ore which the mine yields, con¬ taining about 50 per cent, of pure metal. This is found in solution at the bottom of the mine, whence it is pumped up into cisterns, like tanners’ pits, about 2 feet deep ; of these pits there arc many rang¬ es, each range communicating with a shal¬ low pool of considerable extent; into these cisterns are put cast iron plates, and other damaged iron vessels procured from Coalbrook-dale; when the sulphuric acid enters into combination with the iron, let¬ ting fall the copper in the form of a red sediment, very slightly oxidated. The cisterns are cleared once in a quarter of a year, when the sulphate of iron in solu¬ tion is let off into the shallow pool, and the copper is taken to a kiln, dried well, and is then ready for exportation. The sulphate of iron remaining in the pool, partly decomposes by spontaneous evap¬ oration, and lets fall a yellow ochre, which is dried and sent to Liverpool and London. One ton of iron thus immersed, pro¬ duces about 2 tons of copper mud, each of which, when smelted will average 1600 weight of copper; but the precipi¬ tate depends much on the kind of iron that is used. If wrought iron be put into mineral water, and left undisturbed, that is, without cleaning, to give it a fresh sur¬ face, till dissolved, the result will be near¬ ly it’s own weight of pure copper; which, from the superior quality, sells at a much higher price in the market, than what is obtained from the smelted ore. This mode of precipitating copper from it’s solvent, by the decomposing power of another metal, is not a recent discovery. It was known more than a century ago to the workmen in the mines of Hungary, where it was termed ziment copper; and was long practised in the Wicklow mines in Ireland, anterior to the adoption of the process here. The workmen earn, on an average, Is 6d a day. But some get the ore at a certain sum per ton. These are called bargain-takers, each of which will engage several men under him : and if the rock be easily penetrated, and the ore of good quality, these will earn from 5 to 6s a day. After they have worked a given time, their pile of ore is examined, by a piece being drawn out and an assay made of the quality, by smelting an ounce weight of it in a small crucible, and after being refined by a second process, the button of copper is weighed, the amount of the heaps ascertained, and the bargain- taker accordingly remunerated for his la¬ bour. The quantity of copper ore annu¬ ally raised it is not easy to ascertain. The Parys mine has produced from five to ten thousand tons per quarter, besides about 15 tons of precipitated copper; and the Mona mine nearly an equal quantity. Butatpresenttbe quantity falls far short of this. From some cause of failure in the quantity or quality of the ore, little is done at the Parys mine; and the proprietor is causing the refuse ore to be fluxed, which a few years back was not considered worth the trouble or expense of smelting. Nor is the Mona mine worked with that spirit, nor to an equal extent, as when the late Mr. Williams was a copartner in the concern. The number of men em¬ ployed in the underground workings of the Monamine, in the year 1806, were 227, the consumption of gunpowder 17,0361b. and of candles 26,2831b, In 1607, 237 were employed, the consump¬ tion of gunpowder was 25,345 lb. and of candles 23,321 lb. In 1808, 122 men wereemployed, and 6,300 lb. of gunpow¬ der, and 9,200 lb. of candles were con¬ sumed, and subsequent to these periods the energy in working has considerably re- 53 AMLWCH 54 laxcd. The sulphur produced by roast- of that profit to the adventurers, which ing the poorer kind of ores, after being melted and refined, is cast into rolls and sent to London. The cones are chiefly used for manufacturing gunpowder and sulphuric acid. For some time a man¬ ufactory of green and blue vitriol was car¬ ried on, but the concern, not having been found to answer, has been some time abandoned. An alum work is con¬ ducted here upon a very singular and ad¬ mirable plan. The argillaceous earth, forming the base of this nentral salt, is found near the spot, in a stratum about 6 feet beneath the surface of the ground. This earth is laid over the heaps of ore in a state of roasting, from which it becomes impregnated with the sulphuric acid gas, disengaged by heat from the copper; and when sufficiently saturated, the composi¬ tion is placed in shallow pits, filled with water, where it is stirred about till the specific gravity of the solution exceeds thatofeommon water one-twelfth. Then it is conveyed in troughs to a range of leaden pans, where by a gentle heat a certain portion is evaporated, and the re¬ mainder drawn off into refrigeratories or coolers, to crystallize; and after being re¬ fined by a second crystallization, it be¬ comes a merchantable article.” Beauties of England, xvii, 233. This mountain also produces an ore of zinc, which in a similar manner is expos¬ ed to the roasting kilns, and becomes a- malgamated with the sulphuric particles. It is then dissolved in water, and after the process of evaporation and crystallization, it is sent to the London market. “ Na¬ ture,” Mr. Pennant observes, “hathbeen profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on this spot; for above the copper ore, and not more than threequarters of a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yel¬ lowish greasy clay, from one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from six hundred to a thousand pounds weight of lead from one ton ; and one of the metal yields not less than fifty-seven ounces of silver. Mixed with the earth are frequently certain parts, of the colour of cinnabar: whether these are symptom¬ atic of the sulphurous arscnicalsilverores, or of quick-silver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes with the successful smelting of this earth in the great: insomuch that it has not yet been might reasonably be expected from the crucible assays of it; and they have at this time about 8000 tons on bank undisposed of. Since the defalcation in the copper concern, more attention has been paid to this species of mineral treasure, and smelt¬ ing works have been erected on a large scale; but, from the very high price of coals, and the deceasing demand for lead, this work is at present on the decline.” From this mountain arises a mineral wa¬ ter, which turns the syrup of violets red, without any signs of chalybeate. To enumerate the mineral substances found from time to time would prove a tedious employment and perhaps an unimportant object. The following are the principal and most useful ; 1, Yellow sulphurated copper ore ; 2, Native copper, in small quantities; 3, Sulphate of copper both chrystallizedand in solution ; 4, Sulphate of lead, containing a small portion of sil¬ ver; 5, Black ore, containing copper with galenca, calamine, and some silver; 6, Native sulphur. Not far from Parys Mountain is the Port whence the ore brought from the mines is transported to Liverpool and Swansea. It is a chasm between two rocks, largee- nough to receive 30 vessels, each 200 tons. The two companies employ ]5 brigs, from 100 to 150 tons burden, besides sloops and other craft. The articles ex¬ ported from these copper mines are prin¬ cipally, a coarse copper from the smelting house;, a richer copperore; driedprecipi- tate of copper, from the vitriol pits; re¬ fined sulphur; ochre; alum; green vit¬ riol. Tho’ much improved by the cop¬ per companies, this port is so exposed to the swell of the ocean as to make it difficult and dangerous of access, during the effects, of high northerly winds. The whole of this coast consists of bays and recesses of various forms and dimen¬ sions, with lofty projecting promontories. At Camlyn-bay, about 8 m. from Amlwch, are some excellent maible quarries. To Caernarvon, mr. Warner returned to Plas Gwyn; thence to the village of Pen Mynydd, the birth-place of Owen Tu¬ dor, the great ancestor of a line of english monarchs. What remains of this ancient residence is incorporated in a farm house; but some coats of arms, escuthepns, and specimens of old masonry, still exist. He 55 ANGLESEA. 5s an old castellated mansion, once the earl of Uxbridge, mr. Meyrick, and the residence of the descendents of March- others. The works arc at Pentrc Beretv, lord of UwchDulas, in Denbighshire, near Llanfihangel. now occupied as a farm-house. Here, in In an Excursion round the Isle of the 13th century also lived sir Tudur ap Anolesea, from Bancor, an object of Gronwy. This knight was one of the considerable attraction is immediately great landed proprietors, who held their presented in the town of Beaumaris, and estates in capite of the crown. Edward it’s concomitants, [which see.] Llan- the first, hearing that sir Tudor had as- vaes Priory, now called the Friars, was sumed the honour of knighthood, without a monastery, said by some historians to his permission, called him to account, have been founded by Llewelyn ap Jor- Sir Tudor replied, that by the laws of the werth, about the year 1237, over the spot Round Table, he had claimed that right, where his princess was interred. An in- possessing the 3 required qualities. 1, dication that he forgave the frailty of his he was a gentleman, 2, he had an ample wife, in her attachment to William de fortune; and 3, he was ready to fight any Bruce [see p. 2.] Lord Clifford and nu- man who had the hardiness to dispute it. merou’s barons and knights, who fell in de- The king struck with the dignity of his fending their country, were buried here, deportment, confirmed the title he hadas- Gryffyd Grygg,a poet of Mona, was inter- sumed. [Powell.] The Cellar of Treyr red here about the year 1370. This mon- Castell was famed for a large stock of ex- astery was consecrated by Howel, bishop client Hydromel, Methegl.n, or Mead. of Bangor, and dedicated to St. Francis. Queen Elizabeth, who was descended Pennant says, “ I am informed that on the th >s house, had a large quantity or farm of Cremlyn Monach, once the pro- this article annuallv imported from Wales, 63 ANGLESEA. 64 for her own use. The following Receipt for making this liquor is from an ancient welsh manuscript. “ Gather a bushel of sweet briar leaves, and a bushel of thyme, £ a bushel of rosemary, and a peck of bay leaves: these being well washed, seethe them in a furnace of fair wateT : let them boil the space of § an hour, and then pour out all the herbs and water into a vat and let it stand till it be but milk-warm, and strain the water from the herbs; and to ev¬ ery six gallons of this water, put one gallon of fine honey, and put into the boom (that is, the wort or boiled liquor) and labour together half an hour, then let it stand five days, stirring it twice or thrice a day; then take the liquor, and boil it anew, and when it doth seethe, scum it as long as any scum remain- eth ; when it is clear, put it into the vat, as before, and there let it be cooled. You must have in readiness a kind of new ale or beer, which, as soon as you have emptied, suddenly whelm it upside down, and set it up again, and presently put in the Metheglin, (n. b. this in room of yeast) and let it stand 3 days a working, and then turn it up in barrels, tying at every tup- hole, (by a packthread) a little bag of beaten cloves and mace, to the value of half an ounce. It must then stand half a year before drank. At a little dis¬ tance is Castell Abcr Llienawg, where are the vestiges of a small ancient fort, at the back of a neat farm-house, near the sea- heach. It appears to have been fortified by a circular tower at each angle, with a square tower or keep in the centre. The whole was surrounded by a deep foss, and a hollow, probably once a covered way, extends to the shore, terminated by a large artificial mound, upon which was a re¬ doubt. This fortress was founded by Hugh Lupus, carl of Chester, and Hugh, the red headed earl of Shrewsbury, in 1098, when they combined against the Welsh, attack¬ ed Anglcsea, overran the island, and com¬ mitted on the poor inhabitants more fero¬ cious barbarities than ever stained the name of conqueror. Penrnon Prio¬ ry, is about 1 m. n-e. of the former, near the sea, founded by Mael gwyn Gwynedd, in the 6th century. Previous to the year 1221, Llewelyn ap Jorwerth subjected it to new regulations. In the 6th of Eliza¬ beth it was granted to mr. John More. The remains consist of the refectory, un¬ der which appears to have been cells, and over it the dormitory, with the conventual church; partofthe last is used for paro¬ chial service. The church, the present mansion-house, and ruinous refectory, are one connected building, forming 3 sides of a square court, open to the e. The walls are in some places 6 feet thick. The in¬ terior of the church exhibits a rich fund for antiquarian conjecture. The shape appears to have been cruciform, but the n transept is down. The square tower in the centre rests upon 4 circular arches, having treble zigzag and billeted mould¬ ings, supported by small round columns, with plain plinths, and simple capitals. Some parts of this structure exhibit the stamp of the 7th century, and others the style attributed to the Saxons. The mon- numentsbear the names of Hugh Hughes, of Lleininog, who died Feb. 19,1775; sir Thomas Wilsford, of Ildinge, Kent, knight, died Jan. 25, 1645; lie was father to the lady who married sir Richard Bulkelcy. in the lower part of the church is a curi¬ ous benetier, now used as a font. Near this place is a Ffynon-fair, or holy well, surrounded by a wall, and stone seats, having 2 entrances- Upon the walls are initials. In the Park of sir Robert Williams, mile distant, is an ancient cross, about 6 feet in height. The shaft is curiously ornamented. Penman Park, originally belonging to the monas¬ tery, but now the property of lord Bulke- ley, is surrounded by a lofty stone wall, and is well stocked with red deer, and contains an abundance of rabbits. From a high limestone ridge, on the north side, is a fine view of the irish sea, and when the atmosphere is clear, the Isle of Man. At a short distance to the south of the ridge, in the centre of the park, stands an ancient curious british cross, ornament¬ ed with numerous tracings in relief. Re¬ port says that the present proprietor of the park intends moving this relic to Ba¬ ron-hill. Let us hope that this report is untrue, and that the mind which rescued Joan’s coffin, will not despoil this spot, by removing an ancient monument from it’s original site, where only it can incite in¬ terest. Distant | m. from the shore is the island of Priestholme , Ynis Seiriol, Gtannauch, or Puffin Island, of an oval shape, about 1 m. in length, and § m. in breadth. The land is covered with a fine 65 ANGLESEA. 66 turf. At present it is uninhabited. Seiri- ol, son of Owen Danwyn ap Einon ab Cunedda, a holy man, in the beginning of the 6th century, here erected his cell, no part of which remains. He established a school at Penmaen. Near the centre of this islet is an old square tower, supposed to be the fragmentof areligious house, sub¬ ordinate to the priory of Penmon. Prince Owen Gwynedd, the founder of the mon¬ astery, and those of Penmon, Holyhead, and Bangor, the contemporary of king Arthur lies here. The island is the prop¬ erty of lord Bulkeley, who lets it to a com¬ pany of poor people for 15/. per annum. There are upon this spot a few sheep and a numerous colony of rabbits. During the summer, it swarms with various birds of passage, peregrine falcons, cormorants, razor-bills, guillemots, oyster-catchers, stony peterils, divers, terns, curlews, gulls, &c. From the beginning of April to the beginning of August, it is inhabit, ed by an immense number of the Alcie Arctics, puffin-auks, or coulternebs. When these feathered tribes are disturbed by the firing of a gun, or any alarming noise, they suddenly rise in such numbers as to give an appearance of a dense cloud ; filling, at the same time, the air with loud and dissonant sounds. “They appear lirst about the fifth or tenth of April; but quit the place, almost to a bird, twice or thrice before they settle. Their first employ is the forming of burrows; which falls to the share of the males, who arc so intent on the business as to suffer themselves at that time to be taken by the hand. Some few save themselves the trouble of form¬ ing holes, and will dispossess the rabbits, who, during the Puffin season retire to the other side of the island. They lay 1 white egg. Males, as well as females, perform the office of sitting, rclievingeach other when they go to feed. The young are hatched in the beginning of July. The parents have the strongest affection for them; and if laved hold of by the wings, will give themselves most cruel bites on any part of the body they can reach, as if actuated by despair: and when released, instead of flying away, will often hurry a- gain into the burrow to their young. The noise they make when caught is horrible, and not unlike the efforts of a dumb per. son to speak. This affection ceases at the 4 time of remigration, which is most exact¬ ly about the 11th of August. They then go off, to a single bird, and leave behind the unfledged young of the later hatches a prey to the Peregrine Falcon, which watches the mouth of the holes for their appearance, compelled as they must soon be by hunger to come out. The food of these birds is sprats, or sea w'eeds, which makes them excessively rank; yet the young are pickled, and preserved by spic¬ es, and by some people much admired: It appears certain, that the puffins do not breed till the 3d year. The proof arises from the observations made by the rev. Hugh Davies on the different forms of the bills, among thousands of this species which he saw wrecked, Those which he supposes to have been of the first year, were small, weak, destitute of any furrow, and of a dusky colour ; those of the 2d. year, were considerably larger and strong¬ er, lighter coloured, and with a faint ves¬ tige of the furrow at the base; those of more advanced years, were of vivid col¬ ours, and great strength. Among the my- raids which annually resort to Priestholm not an individual has ever been observed which had not it’s bill of an uniform growth. Perhaps the same remark may hold good in respect to the Razor-Bill. Br. Zool. i, No. 230. Mr. Davies having found multitudes with bills far inferior in strength to those which haunt the island ; of an uniform black colour, and without the characteristic white furrow, and black grooves.’’ Pennant. Near Llarulonna is a precipitous isolated hill, called Bwrihl Arthur, or Arthur’s Round Table, upon which are the vestiges of an ancient fortification, denominated Din, or Dinas Sylwy, the exploratory fort. It is encom¬ passed by a deep foss, between 2 lofty val¬ la, formed of rude stones, and in the area arc the foundations of oval buildings. This eminence is highly worth the trou¬ ble of ascending. The prospect consists according to mr. Pennant, of “ an inter¬ mixture of sea, rock, and alps, most sav- agely great.” The Menai appearing encircled by the 2 shores, assumes the form of a magnificent lake, the town Beaumaris being placed upon it’s mar gin. On the r. appear the unbroken un¬ dulations of Anglesea ; on the 1. Snow¬ don and attendant mountains • the reverse 67 ANGLESEA. 68 is occupied by the ocean. In a deep gully, leading from Llanddona church to the sea, near the shore, arc 2 round mounts, which mr. Pennant conjec¬ tured were the work of the Danes, to pro¬ tect their vessels in Red-wharf bay. In this vicinity is a place called Nant y dic- nyild, the chasm of destruction ; general¬ ly considered the British Tarpeian rock. Near this place is a church called Llar.fi- hanglc Din Sylviy ; and about 2 m. fur¬ ther that of Llanjeslyn (a saint who lived a- bout the close ol the 5th century, son of Geraint ab Erbin, slain by the Saxons at the seige of London). This church con¬ tains a tomb of curious workmanship, sup¬ posed to be that of it’s tutelar saint. Some antiquarians think the letters which ap¬ pear upon a scroll, have been done long subsequent to the death of Jestyn. The inscription, as copied by the lion. Daincs Barrington, and given by mr. Pennant, is “ Hie jacet sanctus Yestimus cui Gwen- llian filia Madoc et Gryffit ap Gwillvn op- tulit, inoblacaem istam imaginem p. salu¬ te animarium.” Yet mr. Owen the editor of the 2d edit, of Rowland’s “Mona Anti- qua,” says the inscription is a fiction, no such can now be found upon the stone. The inscription being now almost illegi¬ ble, ’tis not in the power of an ordinary observer to determine such a grave dis¬ pute. Tiaeth cuch, or Red Wharf, dis¬ tant 2 m. is a large bay, running into the land, and receiving the waters of the small river Torryd. It is passable at low water, being covered with firm sand. A large portion of small shells are gathered upon the west side, and used for manuring the land, in many parts of the island. The w. horn of the bay forms a small cape, or promontory, called Casicll-in-ailir. This, and adjacent cliffs, are composed of calca¬ reous strata, and numerous vessels upon the coast are employed to carry limestone into the different parts of Wales. There is here, an old and new Quay. Pen- traeth is pleasantly situated at the head of the sands. It’s church is surrounded by ash and sycamore-trees. The Pantons, have here their place of interment. Plas Gwyn, lies at a short distance. It js the seat of Paul Panion, esq. Tho’ this mansion cannot rank among the first in the island, it contains a well selected library, and an invaluable treasure of welsh mss. The inquisitive and intelli¬ gent traveller will not fail to meet with a communicative obligingness from this family. The warmest encomiums have been paid it by several tourists. The fol¬ lowing quotation from mr. Lloyd may be instanced. “ To the lovers of british litera¬ ture, thenameof Panton willevcr bedear; to this family they are particularly indebt¬ ed ; and the opportunity of acknowledg¬ ing it will always be gratifying.” In a field near the Porter’s-lodge, stand 2 up¬ right stones, respecting which, tradition has wrought a marvellous story. Eineon ap Gwalchmai, an eminent bard, was en¬ amoured of the young Angharad, but he had unfortunately two competitors to con¬ tend with. The fair one determined to decide the matter, by the relative salient abilities of her lovers. An exhibition of leaping vvas the criterion determined up¬ on. Eineon victoriously bore off the prize, and the two stones mark the distance of his leap. Eineon having occasion to be absent from this part of the country, for some time, on his return, he learnt with sorrow that his faithless Angharad had married another. He took up however, his harp, and softened the peturbations of his mind with melancholy music. After this recital, gentle reader, if we may be allowed to descend to common sense, the 2 stones may be the remains of a druidic monument, another, at a short cjistance, having been thrown down. The coast between Tracth cock, and Moclfra point, produces several kinds of excellent marble, chiefly black, grey, and mottled brown, which are manufactured into mon¬ uments and ornaments for architectural decoration. Llanfair Mathafcrn ei- thaf, gave birth in 1722, to that brilliant star in the Cambrian hemisphere, Goronw Omen. His father was a husbandman, at¬ tentive to the mere wants of nature, and unmindful of giving his children any edu¬ cation. Goranw, however, imbibed a spirit of enquiry, and an ardour of research which could not be suppressed. He went to school, first by stealth, and was conti¬ nued there by the influence of his mother. At the age of 15, he became qualified as an assistant in a grammar school at Pwl- heli. Through the munificence of mr. Lewis Morris, he thence removed to Ox¬ ford. After graduating there took orders, 69 ANGLESEA. 70 and was appointed by the Bishop of Ban¬ gor to his curacy of Llanfair. Stationed at his native place, his happiness was com¬ plete ; but it was of short duration ; the bishop removed him to make way for a particular friend. Necessity compelled Goronw to accept the curacy of Oswes. try in Shropshire. He married, and his paltry stipend proved inadequate to the support of a family. He removed to Don- nington, where he assisted in a school, and served an adjacent church ior 26/ per annum. After an endurance of five years’ genteel wretchedness, he somewhat ame¬ liorated his condition by accepting the cu¬ racy of Walton in Cheshire; but pinching circumstances still harassed his mind. He removed to London,but was unable to meet with any living superior to the curacy of North-holt, in Middlesex. Worn out with unavailing hopes ol obtaining some pre¬ ferment, he emigrated to Williamsburg, in Virginia, where he probably died. To a perfect acquaintance with Latin and Greek, Goronw added a knowledge of the oriental languages; he was also a good antiquarian, and a favourite child of A- pollo. His works were printed in a vol¬ ume called “ Diddanwch Teuluaidd,” now become scarce. In the church yard, is a modern carnedd. Beneath the heap of stones is a hollow cavern, the en¬ trance guarded, according to the ancient british and jewish customs, by a large stone. The sepulchre was erected by a mr. Wynne. Pass Llaneigrad on the I. and Llanallgo on the r. 1 m. furth¬ er on the 1. Penrhbs Dulas. On the r. Plas Dulas, 1 m. Llaneli an, 2 m. Am¬ lwch, 1^ nr. Birwan, 1 m. (on the r. Bull-bay, Irwyn-melin-point, and Easter¬ ly-mouse islet). Llanbadric, 3 m. 1 nr. on the 1. of Commaes is Llanfechel; in which parish is a large fallen cromlech, and a fine quarry of very curious and beautiful marble, called Verde de Corsi¬ ca or verde antiche. This quarry was lately sold for 1000/. This district to the n-w. of Amlwch, consists principally of an extensive sandy plain, which from a few instances of the effects of cultivation, exhibits marks of great fertility. The coast is intersected by several creeks and bays. At short distances from the shore arc 3 islets called the East-Mouse, the Middle-Mouse, and IVest-Mouse. The middle one is usually named YnysBadrig, from a circumstance recorded in the le¬ gendary life of the great irish evangelist St. Patrick ; and upon the opposite point stands a church denominated after him Llanbadric. At a short distance is Cam- lyn-bay, which receives the river Gwygir. About 3 miles beyond Commaes is Llan- rhwydrys, near which is the West-Mouse Island, or Maen bigcl, and in front of the village, about half a league from the shore, lies Ynys if Mod R/toniaid, or Isle of Seals, commonly called the Sherries. It is in¬ habited by a few poor sheep, andanumcr- ous colony of rabbits, and seldom visited, except in the season of puffins. The sur¬ face of the island is composed principal¬ ly of bare or half covered rocks. Upon it’s highest elevation a light house was c- rected about the year 1730, for the con¬ venience of ships navigating between Ire¬ land and the ports of Liverpool and Ches¬ ter, and yet tvrecks are not un frequent on this coast. The fishery on this coast be¬ longs the church of Bangor. About the cliff's of this island are abundance of coal- fish, cod, whiting, and what the Welsh call gzviniad, the Labrus tinea of Linnaeus. One m. from Llanrwydrys, is a house called The Lodge,and Mynachtu, anciently the site of a religious house, where are yet the remains of a chapel, (on the 1. is a road to Llanfairynghornzcy, l-fm. midway is Caeriau. About 1m. from this village is one of those ancient monuments called meini hirion, consisting of 3 large upright stones, standing at the distance of about 500yards one from the other. In the vicin¬ ity of these are 2 circular encampments with a single foss and vallum, called Cas- tell Cram ; and not far distant, in the par¬ ish of Llanfezvyn, were dug up some years ago, 3 golden bracelets, and a bulla of the same metal in excellent preservation. These were in the possession of mr. Pen. nant. Mr. Whitaker says that this well known ornament of the roman boys was worn as anamulet. Hist.ofManches.i,79. Leave Camel’s point on the r. and proceed 2 m. to Llanrliyddlad, lnt. further is Car- reg Llwyd, a good mansion, with fine plan¬ tations, the residence of Holland Griffith, esq., by whose spirited and patriotic ex¬ ample andencouragement,theagriculture of this district has been much improved. Llanfaethle £ m. (2 m further on the right 71 ANGLESEA, 72 F/as y Glynn ) Llanfwrog, 2k m. (§ m. on 170 houses. The employments pursued (he 1. Llanfachreth.) Over the sands, which are fordable at very low water, to Penrhos, 2 nr. where is Penr/ros-hall, a handsome modern mansion, lately erect¬ ed under the direction of mr. Defferd, the residence of Lady Stanley. Holyhead, 2 m. This separated part 6f Anglesea, once the place of interment of pious peo¬ ple, and thence called Holy Island, was regarded as peculiarly sacred. The foun¬ dations of Capelly Garlics, Capell St. Ffraid, &c. &c. are still traceable. The whole of this islet consists principally of barren rocks and sands. A common, called Towyn y Capel is bounded on the w. side by rocks, over which the sea sometimes breaks, in an awful manner. The s. part constitutes the parish of llkoscalin. Near the Four-mile bridge, is a quarry of ser¬ pentine, or marble. The channel, which divides this tract from the other part of Anglesea, is narrow, and in some places fordable at low water. The great irish road is carriedoverabridge, called Rhydy Bont, or Rhydy Pont. The country hence to the s-w. part of Anglesea is uninterest¬ ing and dreary. On this rout a custom prevails of sounding horns to call the la¬ bourers in the fields to work. There are 2 roads from Yfelinwen near Llanlair- yneibwll, to Aberffraw, which is distanta- about 7 m. The first on thel. is over Towyn Trcwin Common, crossing Avon Crigell, with Llyn Maelog on the r. to Llanfaclog, where the road turns to the r. and falls in¬ to the other road across tbe Cymmymn sands. Within l-§m. of Aberffraw pass Llangwyfen on the r. Aberffraw is situat¬ ed where the river Ffraw discharges it’s waters into a small bay. It was one of the 3 royal residences of Wales, and a scat of their principal courts of justice. Rod- eric the great fixed upon this place as the seat of government, about the year 870, and it continued a royal residence till the death of Llewelyn in 1232. It was here that the princes of N. Wales had for sev¬ eral centuries a magnificent palace, and here was deposited a copy of the celebrat¬ ed code of laws, enacted by Howel Dda. Another copy of those laws was kept at Dinevawr. Some trifling remains of the ancient palace are shewn in the walls of a building now used as a barn. In 1801 the village contained 936 inhabitants and here are husbandry and fishing. A small harbour admits sloops of 40 tons burden, and afford a facility of exporting corn. Several thousand bushels of oats and bar¬ ley are annually shipped ; a certain proof of the,fertility of the surrounding country. Two methodistchapels have been erected here. At this place was born Wal¬ ter Steward, the ancestor, according to Rowlands, of the royal house of the Stuarts, kings of England and Scotland. See Mona Antiqua, p. 175. Near this place have been frequently found the ar- mulets called gleiniau nadroedd, or snake gems, supposed to have been manufactur¬ ed by the romans and exchanged for ex¬ ports with the britons. The Welsh still attach great virtues to those rings using them to cure coughs the ague, or to as¬ sist children in cutting their teeth. In this vicinity is the lake Llyn Goron, a- bout 2 m. in circumference, abounding with trout, gwyniad, and other fish. It is much frequented in summer by auglers. Llangadwaladcr, distant nearly 2 m. The Church is said to have been founded by Cadwallader, last king of the Britons. The stone mentioned by Rowlands yet re¬ mains forming the lintel of the s. entrance doorway. Antiquaries differ in decipher¬ ing the inscription. The author just mentioned, says it is to be read CATAMANUS REX SAPIENTISS1 MUS OPINA. TISSIMUS OMNIUM RECUM. He supposes that the inscription is com¬ memorative of Catamanus or Cadfan, the grandfather of the founder, who was in¬ terred here. See plate ix of Mona Anti¬ qua Restorata. EPITAPH. In obitum Owini IVoode, armigeri, qui ab- uit 6 die April Ac, Dili. 1602.iEtat suae 76. Fctlix ter felix marmor quia nobile lignum 'duo caret iufcrtix insula, manner, habi's, Owen et patria vivens fuit utile lignum. Et lignum vitce post suafata Deo. Filius isla meo posui monumenta parenti Sit precor ut tecum nomen ita Omen idem. Bodorgan, lies 1^ m. to the r. situated up¬ on an eminence, clothed with wood, sur¬ rounded by a small park, stocked with deer. This house was built from a de¬ sign by Defferd, and is the residence of Owen Putland Meyric, esq. The Malldreath Estuary may be crossed by a ferry, but at low water the sands are ford- 73 ANGLESEA. 74 able. The difficulty, however, of thij pass causes Newborough tobe seldom vis¬ ited. This Traeth is an arm of the sea, flowing far up into the land. The direc¬ tion is s-w. to n-e. stretching from Ltan- dclwyn Point to Llangefni-bridge; a dis¬ tance of about 12 m. It is flanked by 2 ranges of limestone-rock, which run in the same line of bearing, to Red-wharf Bay, across the island. A fine embank¬ ment once existed across the Traeth, but it became ruinated. A second work cross¬ ed a little below Trefdraclh, which was suffered to decay, wanting some necessa¬ ry repairs- Thus indolence or thoughtless¬ ness permitted the sea to rush over and despoil many beautifully verdant and lux¬ uriant meadows. A scheme has been some time in contemplation, for erecting another embankment, on an enlarged scale and durable plan, so as to form a new road upon the elevated part. Newborough forms an insignificant name in the catalogue of towns, it may how¬ ever deserve some icgard as connected in it’s history with Aberfraw. The british name of this place is Rhos-fair. Here too had the princes of N. Wales a Llys or roy¬ al palace. Originally it was a seat of jus¬ tice for the comot of Menai, and continu¬ ed so long after it’s subjection to the crown of England. Edward 1, annexed to it the royalties of the prince of Wales and formed the town into a corporate bo¬ dy; hence the name New-borough. It sent a representative to parliament in the 3d year of Henry 8, and in the 1st year of Edward 6, this privilege was afterwards transferred to Beaumaris. Newborough is still governed by a mayor, recorder, 2 bailiffs, &c. butit’s ancient glory has long since passed away ; even it’s weekly market is discontinued. Ey the census of 1801, the number of houses was 176 and that of the inhabitants 599. Some are em¬ ployed in the manufacturing of matts nets, and cordage, composed of sea-reed grass, called rhosir-morhesg ropes; others in husbandry, and a few in fishing. Not far from what is considered the domestic chapel to the royal palace, is an upright stone, bearing an inscription, which is thus read by Rowlands ; “ CUR.F1LIUS CURRICINI EREXIT HUNC LAPIDEM probably set up in memory of a danish chieftain who fell in battle. Newborough was ibe birth-place and residence of John Morgan, a blind musician who was one of the last who understood playing upon the erwth. A man named Williams was also a maker and performer. He was a barber and resided at Holyhead. Both these Crvvderos’ are dead, the erwth is dis¬ regarded, and the enthusiastic attention once paid to it’s music is extinct! Llanddwyn parish forms a kind of peninsu¬ la towards the sea, the whole of which is covered with meals or sand-hills. Upon a sandy flat, surrounded by rocks, near the shore, was anoratoryofSt. Dwynwen, the daughter of Bi ychan Urth, a holy man who lived in the 5th century. So weal¬ thy was the treasury of this shrine, in the time of Owen Glyndwr, that it became a subject of very serious depredatory quar¬ rel, and in the time of Henry 8 the reve¬ nues formed one of the richest prebends belonging the cathedral of Bangor. Abermenai Ferry lies almost opposite to Caernarvon bar. It is one of the 5 ferries sanctioned by authority between the is¬ land and the main land. They were grant¬ ed by Henry 8 to Richard Giflard, who let them for a term to Wm. Bulkeley This only remains in the family. From the circumstances of sand banks, oppos¬ ing tides, issuing out of two seas, notone of these passages can be pronounced safe. Serious accidents have occurred at each. Tal yfoel, or the bald headland, is one of the principal ferries. The place derives it’s name from the coast being higher than in the vicinity, and a naked abrupt rock appears on approaching the shore. In pursuing the circuit of this island, we proceed up the w. bank of the Menai to Llanidan, or the Church of St. Idan, once belonging to the convent at Beddgelert. It contains 2 curiosities, the one is a re¬ liquary, the other an uncommon stone. See Leanidan. Porthamel , or Porth-amwyll, the gloomy ferry, so called from the dense woods, which, in former times, shaded the banks. It is famed as the place where Suetonius landed when heexterminateddruidic domination. The infantry crossed by means of flat bottomed boats, near Pwll y ffuwch, where a low place upon the beach is still called Pant yryscaphie, or the boat hollow; scaphae 75 ANGLESEA. 7S being the name which the Romans gave their boats. The horse followed below at the ford. A tumulus in an adjoining field, it is supposed was the holocaustic place, where the terrified druids took up firebrands and brandished them; but where the infatuated multitude where committed to the flames of their own sa¬ crificial fires. Upon the top of Gwydryn hill is a fortified post, of a semicircular shape, called Caer Idris, surrounded by a triple foss and vallum ; it’s name and fig¬ ure indicate it to have been of british o- rigin. Llanedwen is chiefly notic¬ ed as having given birth to the Rev. Hen¬ ry Rowlands, author of “ Mona Antiqua Restorata.” See Llanedwen. Moel y don is another of the usual ferries over the Menai. See an account of this place in it's alphabetic arrangement. Also the succeeding objects under Plas Newydd. Llanfair pwl-gzvyngyll is situated near the dangerous passage of the Swelly-Rocks, de¬ rived probably from local circumstances, as pwll, or pool, giving, to wriggle, and liyll, hideous; i. e. a hideous wriggling- pool, allusive to the opposite whirlpool in the Menai. Other conjectures as to the derivation of this word, have been made ; among which, jiwll, a pool, guiyn rage, and giuyll dark, i. e. the gloomy raging pool. Upon a rocky eminence near the shore, in this parish is the site of an ancient british fortification, called Craig y ddinas, oppo¬ site to which are the Swelly-rocks, many of which are visible at low water, between which the sea runs with great rapidity- “ When very young,” says mr. Pennant “ 1 ventured myself in a small boat dur¬ ing the greatest rage of this torrent, and never shall forget the rapid evolutions be¬ tween rock and rock, amid the boiling waves and mill-race current.” Tour, iii, 23. Indeed the violent swells and the bursting ebulitions in some plates, the furious run of tide in others, the roaring noise of the waters ocassioned by the sub¬ merged breakers, the dashing of the foam and spray in the vortices, against the un¬ covered and exposed rocks, with the din and turbulence around, is at certain times of flood and ebb, of such a kind, as to baf¬ fle all description to convey any adequate idea, either of the appearances they ex¬ hibit, or the sensations they excite. At high water the terrific scene completely disappears. This furious current, tho very Scylla and Charybdis of welsh mari¬ ners, is called Pie!I Ccris; and is certainly a formidable obstacle to the navigation of large vessels. LlandyssUio, 1 m. further, is curiously situated upon a small rocky peninsula, jutting into the sea. This, at high-water, forms an islet called Ben-glas, comprising a few acres of land, which af¬ ford pasturage for sheep : a causeway joins it to the opposite beach, passable on¬ ly at ebb-tide. It is a circumstancealmost peculiar to Anglesea that most of it’s 74 parish churches are placed not far distant from the shore. In some the time of ser¬ vice is adapted to the state of the tide, and when the wind brows briskly in the same direction the tide will set in earlier than expected, causing an indecorous breaking up of the devotions of the con¬ gregation. This is sometimes the case both at this place and at Lla/igwyfen near Aberffraw. Mr. Rowlands says, that he met with an extract from a deed, contain¬ ed in a book of sir Wm. Gryffyth, whence it appears that the natives of this town¬ ship were once sold as an appendage of the estate to which the lands belonged. Mona Antiqua, p. 122. A rural pipe, used by the shepherds for their amuse¬ ment, called the Pibgorn, in some meas¬ ure resembling a hoboy, is said to be al¬ most peculiar to the Isle of Anglesea. This name is given to it from having it’s extremities tipped with horn. It has 7 holes, besides the aperture in which a reed is concealed. It’s tone is between the flute and clarionet. It was from this instrument that the kind of dance called hornpipe originated. From Chepstow, 3 miles, Manby. - Bristol, 11 miles. AUST FERRY, or the OLD PAS¬ SAGE HOUSE, anciently Aust Clive. This ferry is one half shorter than that at the Black-rock Inn, or New Passage, but the landing at the latter is more commodi¬ ous. The Aust Cliff, under which you herelandfrom Bristol, &c., isaboldeleva- tion of about 300 feet, composed of a red clay interspersed with narrowstrataof the whitest alabaster; also, carbonite of lime, with pyrites and chrystals of lime, spars of sulphate of lime, sulphate ofstrontiane. 77 BALA. 78 rnundic, &c. The tide moves here with great strength, which the opposing rocks in the bed of the river, form into whirl¬ pools. The boatmen carefully avoid these. Open boats have been forcibly drawn un¬ der water in these places. This Passage-House is upon the s-e. side of the Severn, the house on the other side is called Beachley, both upon the edge of Gloucestershiie. Tradition has as¬ cribed to this spot the scene of a remark¬ able event. In order to settle a contest between Edward the elder, and Leolin, a prince of Wales. Edward appeared upon Aust cliff, and Leolin stationed himself at Beachley upon the opposite shore, with¬ out cither of them moving to meet the other. Edward entered a boat, and order¬ ed it to be rowed across. Leolin, struck with this instance of magnanimity, as soon as the boat approached, he quitted instant¬ ly the spot upon which he stood, threw off his robe of state, and darting into the water, to the height of his breast, he laid hold of the boat, addressing his rival thus, ‘‘Most w;se king! your condescension has overcome my pride, and your wis¬ dom triumphed over my folly ; tread up¬ on that neck which I had lifted against you, and enter the land which you have made your own.” Nothing less than car¬ rying Edward upon his shoulders to land, would satisfy him. When arrived, he dad him homage as his vassal. The little hamlet of Aust, lies at a con¬ siderable distance from the Ferry-house. It is situated behind a craggy cliff, in the salt marshes, by the side of the Severn. It has a neat chapel, the w. end of which has a lofty tower, with pinnacles at the corners. “ The Old Passage House is far preferable to the New ; the accom¬ modation is better, and the people far more obliging ; but the black rock which juts into the sea, renders this ferry more dangerous.”—E. J. Spence. To Clifton, near Bristol, 11 miles, whence C. W. Manby, esq set out. — Beachley, across the Severn, l-£ miles. A TABLE shewing at what Hour to pass ihe Severn, every Day in the Year, at AUST PASSAGE. THE WIND BEING ABOVE. Times of Passing. THE WIND BEING BELOW. Times of Passing. Moon’s Age. H. M. 11. M. r and Id 2 00 to 7 00 2 and 17 2 48 to l 48 3 and 18 3 36 to 8 36 4 and 19 4 24 to 9 24 5 and 20 5 12 to 10 12 6 and 2t 6 00 to 11 00 l and 22 6 48 to 11 48 8 and 23 7 36 to 12 36 9 and 24 8 24 to 1 24 10 and 25 9 12 to 2 12 11 and 26 10 00 to 3 00 12 and 27 10 48 to 3 48 13 and 28 11 36 to 4 36 14 and 29 12 24 to 5 24 15 and 30 1 12 to 6 12 Moon’s A ge. H . M. II. M. i and 16 7 00 to 2 00 2 and 17 7 48 to 2 48 3 and 18 8 36 to 3 36 4 and 19 9 24 to 4 24 5 and 20 10 12 to 5 12 6 and 21 11 00 to 6 00 7 and 22 11 43 to 6 48 8 and 23 12 36 to 7 36 9 and 24 1 24 to 8 24 10 and 25 2 12 to 9 12 11 and 26 3 00 to 10 00 12 and 27 3 48 to 10 48 13 and 23 4 36 to 11 36 14 and 29 5 24 to 12 24 15 and 30 6 12 to 1 12 Example. If the moon be 5 or 70 days old, and the wind above, there is passing from 12 minutes after 5 till 12 minutes after 10. If the wind be below, from 12 min¬ utes after 10 to 12 minutes after 5. When the tide is coming in, the wind being above, they pass an hour earlier at the New Passage than here; but the tide going out, and wind below, they are an hour later at the New Passage. So that this table will serve for both passages. From Corwen, 13 j m. Pennant; Binglev; Wync ham. -Llangynnog, 11 miles, Aikin. -Ponty Glyn, 12 miles, Hutton. -Mallwyd, 16 miles, J. Evans. -Dinas Mouddy, 22 miles, Warner. -Dolgelly, 18 miles, Skrine. BALA, (the outlet of the lake) is 1- clean and populous market-town in Mer¬ ionethshire, consisting of one wide prin¬ cipal street; the others crossing it at right angles. The houses are in general verv low. The young women commonly go bare-footed. They, however, are well a formed, and have little of the strong welsh 79 BALA. SO physiognomy, tn 1S01 the population the lake of Geneva; and the classic Al- consisted of 1463 persons, the number of pheus through the waters of the Adriatic, houses 310. The lake is the principal at- Hence it has been asserted that the sal- traction of this vicinity, yet it possesses mon are never found in the lake ; northe no very interesting features. It is said gwiniad in the river. This may gener- that the lakes of Scotland and Ireland con- ally be the case, but perhaps by accident tain more grand discriminating traits, the gwiniad has been known to stray as than either those of Cumberland, West, far as Llandrillo, 6 m. down the river; and moreland, or Wales. Grass land near Ba- a falmon has now and then been found la lets as high as 3 or 4 guineas an acre : trespassing in the lake. From the bottom the average rent of the arable does not ex- of the lake or N-E.end, the view to the s-w. ceed one guinea in the vales. On the is exceedingly fine; a line of rich corn- hills it runs from Is. to 5s. Sheep com- fields and verdant meadows bound it’s mons are 4 d a head. Agriculture is little waters on the r.; and on the 1., the bridge; attended to here. Bala is in the parish of through which issues out the river called Llanycil (the church of the recess) about the Dee. The boundaries of this lake are 1 m. distant. At this place is carried on very grand : a large rocky hill, well cloth- a great trade in woollen gloves and stock- ed with wood, rises overit in picturesque ings. Just before entering the town is an beauty. A range of crags thence leads artificial mount called Tummeny Bala (the the eye to the lofty Arrans with their tumulus of Bala,) which is supposed to be summits Penllyn and Fowddy. On the of roman origin, and placed here, with a n-w. arethecloudy tops of Arennigs vawr, small castle on it’s summit, to secure the and vach ; and in the distant horizon, the pass towards the sea. On the e. bank of tripple crown of the towering Cader Idris, the Dee is another mount, not far distant, The lake abounds with a variety of ex- Called Castell Gronw Befyr o Benllyn (the cellent fish ; viz. pike, trout, perch, eels, castle of Gronw, the Fair of Penllyn), a and that peculiar to alpine lakes, called chieftain who lived in the time of Mael- gwiniad, the salmo laveretus of Linnas- gwn Gwynedd. Bala Lakf, or Llyn us, and the fera of the lake of Geneva. Tegid, or Pimhle-mere, is i m. s. of the The fishery in the 13th century belong- town. The latter name is a corruption ed to the abbey of Basingwerk; thewhole from Pymplwy meer, or the meer of the property is now vested in Sir W. W. 5 parishes adjoining the lake, Llandervel, Wynne, bart. As a particular favour, the Llanfawr, Llanycill, Llanuwchllyn, and fishermanbelongingtosirWatkin William Llangower. It is the largest lake in Wynne, may be engaged occasionallyto at- Wales, being about 4 m. long, and in some tend fishing parties, with a boat and nets, places near 1 m. in breadth. At Bryn Go- Without such permission no person is al- leu it’sdeplh is several fathoms. Thescen- lowed theusepfnets; butangling is free- cry around is mountainous, but not ve- ly permitted, and gentlemen as distant as rv striking. The overflowings of this lake from London visit this place entirely for are sometimes dreadful; but this only hap. the sake of indulging in this amusement, pens when the winds rush from the moun- The seat of sir R. C. Hoare, and sir John tain at the upper end. In stormy weath- I-istcr, a joint establishment for thepur- er, when swelled by torrents, the water pose of fishing, is advantageously situated is driven to the height of 8 or 9 feet, cov- 011 the left bank of the lake near the town, ering great part of the vale of Edeirnion, and is sheltered by a hill. Several farms and almost threatening the town with de- appear on the same side at intervals, bur struction. In calm settled weather it has there is a great want of variety in the sce- been so smooth as to be completely froz- nery occasioned chiefly by the woods be¬ en over. The river Dee rises from under ing cut down which once adorned the Arran ben ldyn ) the high mountain at the banks, and no others planted. Near the head of the lake ; and, according to Giral- exit of the river Dee, from the pooladjoin- dus Cambriensis, Drayton, and others, ing the bridge, there are vestages of arais- passes through this immense body of wa- edearthen work, which seem to have been ter without deigning to intermix it’s wa- intersected by the road. Here the roman ters, asthc PJione is said to pass through road, leading frem the station of Mediol- 81 »A1 lanum in Montgomeryshire, tothatof He- riri Mons, or Tommen y Mur in Merion¬ ethshire, traversed the valley; and con¬ tinued it’s course either through or very near the present town of Bala, to the Miltir Cerrig or stony mile, and thence through Bwlch-y-buarth to Tommen y Mur. Plants. Alisma natans, s. end of the lake; Fumaria claviculata, in a hedge in the lane, at the n. end of the lake; Sene- cio viscosus, upon the shore of the lake; Littorella lacustris, upon the bank at the s. end of the lake. Of the Inns at Bala, Mr. Hutton says, “ altho’ I have often only reposed one night at an inn, yet from agreeable treat¬ ment and conversation, I found some re¬ gret the next day at parting. Though I saw the people but once, the mind revolt¬ ed at the idea of seeing them no more. This was also the case at Bala. In one of my tours, I stopped at the Three Golden Eagles (the arms of Wynne) where, by mistake, my saddlecloth was left. It was however carefully preserved, tho’ my return was uncertain. In a subsequent tour, I received the cloth, and was truly sorry to find the unhappy landlord had been obliged to shut up.” The Bull is accounted the head-inn, but the Lion is also a large and comfortable house, kept by civil and attentive people. AN EXCURSION ROUND THE LAKE, from Bingley's Tour. “ Crossing the bridge, Pont Mwnwgl. y-llyn, and proceeding along the e. edge of the pool, from near the hamlet of Han¬ gover 4 m. a pleasing vale opens on the opposite side, bounded by mountains, and closed in at the end by one of the Arre- nigs. Passing the end of the lake about £ m. and leaving the road down a narrow lane to Llanuaichl/yn (the church above the lake) the vale of Twrch is entered, where Aran Benllyn presents one of it’s native craggy and prominent cliffs, it’s poor vegetation hanging in a few tufts from it’s broken sides. The scene is al¬ together that of nature in her roughest at¬ tire, where rocks, heath, moss, and a few grasses, seemed almost the only compo¬ nent parts of the picture. Crossing the riv¬ er Twrch (the burrower) m. my guide, says Mr. Bingley, pointed out a piece of land of considerable extent, near Llan- uwchllyn which was nearly covered with -.A. S3 innumerable masses of broken rocks which had been carried there by what the Welsh call Daeardor, a breaking of the earth. This is a dislodgment of a Vast quantity of the surface of the ground, and as appears to have been the case in the present instance, sometime of a consider¬ able tumulus from the higher mountains, which seems to have been occasioned by the bursting of a waterspout, the vast- contents of which being lodged in the hol¬ lows, penetrated into the earth, which loosening the whole mass, it was swept down with the torrent, and lodged in the vale below. The present accident hap¬ pened after a thunderstorm, on the 20th of June 1 *781, when the river Twrch o- verflowed it’s banks in such a dreadful torrent, as to sweep every thing before it. According to the newspaper accounts no less than 17 houses, 10 cows, and a vast number of sheep, besides the soil of all the meadows and corn fields in it’s course were destroyed by it; and this meadow, in which the greater part of the stones were lodged, was so heaped with them, as to render it not worth the trouble of clearing it again for cultivation. The di. mensions of some of the stones, borne hither by the impetuosity of the torrent, are astonishing ; one was 19 feet long, 9 broad, and 6 high; another, split in the descent, w r as 19^ feet by T£, and 6 deep. Eight other stones, half this size, were carried £ m. and 5 bridges in the parish were swept away. The inhabitants pro¬ videntially received a timely alarm; the consequence of a few minutes delay would have been their destruction. The only person missing was a poor woman who being sick in bed was drowned. [Pennant ii, p. 87.J On the summit of a high and craggy rock, at a mile distance from the road, about 1 m. beyond Llanu- wchllyn, ^ m. are the remains of an an¬ cient british fort,called Castell Corndochon. Returning, upon an eminence on the 1., near the head of the pool Caer Gai, f m. was formerly a fort belonging to Cal Hir ap Cynijr, or, as Spencer has called him, Timon, the foster father of King Arthur, who was educated here.” Pass Llan y Cxi, 3 m. more ; 1 m. distant from Bala. In the immediate neighbourhood is the seat of mr. Price. Elegant grounds add considerably to the beauties of this spot, which is surrounded by mountains. 84 BALA. through which roads have been cut with excessive labour. While at Bala, mr. Skrine visited the pass of G'.ynduffis, where a torrent is precipitated from the hills with great force, and falls, in some places, perpendicularly, from basin to basin. The road is here so constructed, as to follow the windings of the torrent, upon a shelf above it. In one place, springing across by a bold arch, it com¬ mands a view of all the falls. Soon af¬ terwards he reached Corwen. On the Dolgelley road, by the side of the lake, occurs sir W. W. Wynne’s beau¬ tiful cottage, built upon an eminence near the extremity of the lake. In this walk may be observed the whole contour of the lake and of it’s banks. Llanycil, 1 m. One m. further pass Cefn Bodig, to the r. with Bryn y moel, and Crigllwydion , to Pont la far, 3 m. from Bala. On the 1. Glan- y tlyn. On the r. Caergai, 1 m. Near Llan- uwchllyn cross the Llew river, which falls into the Du at a short distance, 1 m. Dior- nudon,Q, m. Arran Benllyn, on the 1. Drzos- y Nant uchaf. 3 m. Yronwith and Drwsy Nant isaf, with the Mawddach on the 1. 1 m. lihydy maen and Hengwrt uchaf 2 m. On the 1. Maes y cambren. Pont- ncwydd, 2 m. Dolygamedd to the 1. 1 m. further on the opposite side of the stream is Dolysereu. One m. further approach¬ ing to Dolgelley, on the 1. are the resi¬ dences of Gartmaelcn, and Llwyn. On the road to Llanrhaiadr, about m. from Bala, is the Bridge called call¬ ed Pont Cynwyd, below which the turbu¬ lent little stream is crowded with huge masses of rock, deeply excavated into cir¬ cular hollows, by the furious eddying of the water which rages from above. A- bout 1 m. beyond stands llhiwedog (the abrupt ascent), an ancient family seat^ near which, in a vale, where there is stag¬ nant water in winter, called Pwl y Gela- necld (the pool of the slain) was fought a most severe battle between the Britons and Saxons, in which the aged Llywarch, lost his only surviving son. From the side of a steep, just after entering the moors, appears a distant view of the vale ofEdeirneon. The road then leads over Trum y Sam (the causeway of the ridge). At a little distance on the r. runs one of the immense ridges extending 15 or 16 m. in length, called the Berwyn Moun¬ tains. Two of the most elevated points are Cadcr Ferwyn and Coder Forwyn. Soon afterwards, occurs a noted bwlch or pass, which divides the counties of Merioneth and Montgomery, called MilltirGifrig (the stony mile) 3 m. Hence is a prospect into the romantic vale of Llangtjnog, 3 ■§ in¬ completely enclosed on all sides by moun¬ tains. The bottom is interspersed with small farm houses, Llanrhaiadr, 4§ m. On the road to Dinas y Mowddu, on the nw. side of the lake, the villages of Llanycil and Llanuiochllyn occurs, beyond which the mountains assume a bold style. Here commences the craggy ascent of Arran ben Llyn, which continues for near¬ ly two m. beyond is the rough glen> through which the boisterous Twrch rush¬ es in continued cascades. The cottages in this district are most rudely formed, and their outward appearance corresponds to the wretchedness within. Continu¬ ing his journey up the stream, the travel¬ ler at length arrives at the entrance of the military pass of Bwlch y groes, (the pass of the cross) so called from a crucifix which was anciently erected at the sum¬ mit of this ascent. Mr. Aikin, who took this route, says, “ Before we entered the pass, we turned aside a little on our r. to admire a very striking cascade of llie Twrch. The bed of the torrent was filled with e- normous masses of rock several yards in diameter, piled one upon the other in a most singular and wonderful manner, deeply worn by the constant action of the water, which boils and foams,and rushes with vast impetuosity through the inter¬ vals between the rocks, which were them¬ selves adorned with large tufts of Sax- ifraga nivalis, and other plants, in full flower. About 5 m. above the fall is a craggy perpendicular cliff, bending over the water, whence, no doubt, these sur¬ prising ruins were detached by the force of frost, or the irresistible rushing of the torrent, swelled unusually by heavy rain ; the pieces as they fell, rolled along the bed of the stream, till one being at this place interrupted in it’s further progress, stopped also all the rest which were be¬ hind it; the descent of the current heap¬ ed them upon each other in their present disorderly arrangement,fbut was unable to sweep away the mound ; it has how¬ ever left deeply engraven marks of vio- 85 BALA. lence by it’s gradual, tho’ constant ero^ sion, will probably at some future period, aided by some high spring flood, tear away these obstacles, and carry their shattered fragments into Bala-pool. Returning into the road from this romantic spot, we began to ascend the steep mountain of Bwlclt y grots, by a most miserably rugged road of loose slates, rendered slippery by the rain, which was coming down with increasing violence. We at length gained the sum¬ mit, and descended by a noble broad ter¬ race road, down the opposite side of the mountain, crossing several small rivulets which, uniting, form the source of the river Dovey, a large stream which gives it’s name to the valley. (The river Dov¬ ey rises near Llangower, in the neigh¬ bourhood of Bala, shapes it’s course by the two towns of Dinas Mowddvvy and Machynlleth and at the distance of 10 m. falls into the mouth of Cardigan bay.) We soon arrived at Llan y mowddu, whence we proceeded to Dinas y mowddu, pas¬ sing on our r. a most beautiful cascade formed by the river Cowarch, which has¬ tens to mingle it’s waters with the Dovey. We passed through Dinas y mowddu with¬ out stopping aud halted for the night at Mallwyd, 2 m. lower down the vale, where we found a very tolerable inn.” The distances on the great road from Bala to Dinasv Mowddu, are as follow. Pass Tynytioll to Llangower, m. Pass Pontregxuyn, and Llanywechlyn, to Avon- vachen, 2 m. 7f.; Pass Khydybont, Tyn- ant-brook, Fron, Bvilch y gives, to Tan y bwlch, 3§ m. (Near this place rises Afon Einion, on it’s approach to Bala-lake it is called the Twrch river, which runs on the r. all the way from the lake.) Be¬ gin to take the infant Dovey on the 1. passing Castlcford to Tyndol, 3 m. Llany- mouddu, 1m. ; Tinfreeth turnpike, 7 f. Tynant, lm. 1 f.; Llantnewd, lm. (Cross the Cowarch river.) Dinasy mowddu, 1 m. On the road to Corwen takearetro- spectivo view of the peaks of Cader Idris, distant eighteen miles, rising behind a succession of mountains. Following the course of the Dee on the r. pursue a char¬ ming vale, amid hedge-rows, corn, grass, and trees of luxurant growth. Neat hou¬ ses, farms, and cottages enliven the scene. , Three m. from Bala, turn to the r. and BANCOR. 86 cross the Dee by a handsome stone bridge. Continuing with the river on the 1. the same kind of scenery continues to the 1. In this route pass through the pleasing villages of Llanfawr, and Llandrillo-, near the latter stands Maesmor, the residence of Bell Lloyd, esq. Passing through Llan- gar, arrive at Corwen. To Ruthin occurs a gradual ascent of 2 m. and then is discovered a grand view of Bala Lake, finely backed by the Arran and the more distant Cader Idris. At a- bout the end of the 6th m. the turnpike road from Llanrwst to Corwen crosses at right angles. Glynn bridge lies 1 m. to the 1. an object well worth so short a de¬ viation. [see Pont y Glynn.] Mr. War¬ ner continued along the banks of this stream, till he entered the Ruthin road, near a village caled Betws-Gwynfyl goch. Three or 4 m. distant from Ruthin tbe vale of Clwyd is entered, a rich tract of land stretching 22 m. in length, and 3 or 6 in breadth. The road to Festinioc is over a drea¬ ry waste of 18 m. through ten of which there are but two solitary houses.—Hut¬ ton. Arran vawr lies on the crossroad from Bala to Beddgelart, a district exceedingly wild. To Llangynog, 10| miles, Bingley ; Wymlliam. — Mallwyd, 16 miles, Aikin. — Fesliniog, 18 miles, Hutton. — Dinasy Mowddu, 17§m. J. Evans; Pennant — Corwen, 12 miles, Skrine. — Ruthjn, 21 miles, Warner. — Dolgelle, 18 miles. — Llanihaiadr, 15 miles. — Caernarvon, 38 miles. — Aberystwitb, 4y miles. — Shrewsbury, 46 miles. Prom PlasNewydd, 5 miles, Wyndham. - Port Penrhyn, l.j miles, Bingley. - Amlwch, 23 miles, Aikin. - Aber,3j miles, Hutton; Skrine. - Caernarvon, 9 m Evans; Warner; Gilpin. --Conway, 15 miles, Warner’s 2d walk. - Gwyndy, 16 miles, Pennant. - Capel Curig, 14 miles. BANGOR, (from Bon chor, the beau¬ tiful choir) in Caernarvonshire, is a bish¬ op’s see. Though now very inconsider¬ able, it appears to have been, in ancient times, so large as to be called Bangor fawr, the great Bangor, probably to dis¬ tinguish it from Bangor-is-coed, in Flint¬ shire. It is seated at the mouth of the BANGOR. 88 Menai, near it’s opening to the Lavansanrls, in a narrow valley, between two low ridg¬ es of slate rock, opening to the s. towards Snowdon, and terminating northwards a- bout§ m. from the cathedral into the beau¬ tiful bay of Beaumaris ; the low towers of it’s castle are visible from the beach, lord Bulkley’s mansion at Baron hill, ap¬ pearing behind. At a distance, Puffin’s island, and the promontory of Orme’s- head, are seen to guard the entrance of the harbour; the vast Penmaen mawr, and a line of villages, with cultivated fields, lie stretchcdalong the shore. From the church-yard is an extensive and char¬ ming prospect of part of Anglesea, with the town and bay of Beaumaris. On a rocky eminence, about 5 m. e. of Ban¬ gor, formerly stood a Castle, built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, sometime during the reign of William 2. The date of it’s demolition is unknown. The site is still visible on a precipitous hill, about half a m. eastward of the city. The Cathedral is a low plain building, dedicated to St Deiniol to whom it owed it’s origin, about the year 525, and he was elected the first bishop in 550. This Daniel was son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor iscoed, under tbe auspices of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time. It was destroyed by the Sax. ons in 1071: and afterwards rebuiltby king John, in 1212. It suffered, with the ca¬ thedral of St. Asaph, about 1247, in the wars betwixt Henry 3, and the Welsh. In 1402 it was burnt down in the rebel¬ lion of Owen Glyndwr ; and remained in Tuinsupwards of 90 years, when the choir was rebuilt by bishop Henry Dermis or Denni, in the reign of Henry 7 ; but the tower and nave were, according to an in¬ scription over the west door, built at the expense of bishop Skeffington in 1532. This see met with a still more cruel ra- vager in bishop Bullceley, who not only alienated many of the lands belonging to it,but went so far as even to sell the bells of the church. Beneath a simple arch lies the body of Owen Gwynedd, the va¬ liant Prince of North Wales. The heart of bishop Skeffington is deposited here; his body was interred at Beauleau, in 1530, of which monastery he had been ab¬ bot. The choir was fitted up in a style of neat and simple elegance, by the late pre¬ late Dr. Warren, and ornamented with a good organ, the gift of Dr. Thomas Lloyd 1779. The chapter consists of a dean, 3 archdeacons, 2 preceptors, 2 vicars, 6 mi¬ nor canons, 6 lay clerks, and S choristers, with an income of 2000/ per annum. The situation of the cathedral is remarkable ; on the s. it is enclosed by a steep moun¬ tain, and on the n. by rising ground, so as to be lost sight of as soon as the place is quitted. Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975 by king Edgar, situ¬ ated about 400 yards n-e, of the Cathe¬ dral, and called Llanfair Edgar Frenhin. Bishop Skeffington, in the time of Hen¬ ry 7 took it down, and repaired the pres¬ ent church with the materials. Tudur ap Gronwy, of Penmynydd andTre’r castell in Anglesea, founded here, upon the sea shore, a house of Black Friars, and was himself there interred in 1311. Upon the site of this friary, doctor Jeffery Glynn af¬ terwards founded a Free-School, for the education of poor men’s children, as is expressed by his will, dated July 8, 1557; it has long been in high repute as a train¬ ing seminary for Oxford, and Trinity Col¬ lege, Dublin. A handsome school-house has been erected, with an income of 400/ per annum. The present master is the Rev. P. Williams, of C. C. C. Ox¬ ford. From the extensive bases ofSnovv- den to Penmaenmawr, there runs a pretty rich and fertile tract of corn and grass land, stretching along the bendings of the Me¬ nai; the mountains in the back ground irregularly retiring and advancing, but never so much as to form a vale. The vicinity of Bangor is well cultivated and some elegant villas are scattered round it. The respectable bishop of the diocese has there his residence, immediately be¬ low the cathedral. Mr. Warner and his companion spoke in raptures of this place. The beauty, retirement, and repose of the whole pleased them wonderfully. The latter observed, that “if he were Bp. of Bangor, the only translation he should covet would be thence to heaven.” The former agreed with him, that “ were fate to throw him also into such a spot, very few attractions would have sufficient force to elicit him from it.” They had “ nev¬ er seen a place which united so many beauties in so harrow a circle; the sub- 89 BANGOR FERRY. 90 lime mountains of Caernarvonshire, at a short distance from it, the picturesque scenery of it’s own immediate neighbour¬ hood, and the ocean spreading it’s broad bosom within 2 m. of the town.” From the beach at Bangor the low towers of the castle of Beaumaris are distinctly vi¬ sible. This city affords several inns as the Eagles, George and Dragon, Crown and Anchor, &c. In 1801 the population of Bangor amounted to 1770 inhabitants, the number of houses was 304. Two m. from Bangor is A her Cegitl, a small creek, through which the Ogwyn is emptied iuto the Menai; on the shore of this creek a new port formed at the ex¬ pense of Lord Penrhyn, and called after his name, is the grand depository of the slates which are brought from Lord Pen- rhyn’s quarries at Dolawen near Llyn Me- rig, in the mountains of Ogwyn. A new road is now opened from Ban¬ gor to LcANRWsT,through Nant Frangon. Mr. Pennant strongly advises the travel¬ ler, who delights in wild nature, to visit Ben-g!og, from Bangor, up Nant Francon. The waters of five lakes dart down the precipice of the middle of the Benglog, (the most dreadful horse-path in Wales,) and formthe torrent of the Ogwen, which falls into the sea a few m. lower. This bottom is surrounded with mountains of of a stupendous height, mostly precipi¬ tous ; the tops of many edged with poin¬ ted rocks.—Tour, ii. 153. 8vo. BANGOR-FERRY, called in Welsh, rorthaethwy, (the ferry, of the confined waters,) is at the distance of 1 £ m. from the town of Bangor, upon the e. bank of the Straits of the Menai. This ferry is more frequented than any of the other e- stablished on the Menai. The passing and repassing ofhorses, carriages, people and cattle is exceedingly numerous. For the last, unfortunately there is no accom¬ modation, and they are compelled by their drivers to swim across. Their dreadful bellowings on this occasion strikes the humane spectator with horror. Persons in boats attend on each side to keep them in a direct line. When arrived on the op¬ posite side the scene is wretched. Some are so much exhausted as to be incapable of standing, those which were restive are beaten afresh, the rest appear disordered and furious, forming together a group at which humanity shrinks. Why are not the cattle of Anglesea conveyed in prop¬ er boats like those which cross the Sev¬ ern at the New-passage in Monmouth¬ shire ? Let us hope the evil will be re¬ moved by a Bp.idce. This desirable ob¬ ject, by which a facility of communica¬ tion would be formed with this remote part of the kingdom, has been attempted several times. The resolutions of a meet¬ ing St. Alban's Tavern, London, April 29 , 1785, to support an application to parlia¬ ment for an act for building a bridge, were opposed and counteracted by a par¬ ty who thought their property was there¬ by likely to be injured. “ A second Re¬ port of the Committee on Holy-head roads and Harbour,” was printed by order of parliament, in 1810. Three plans have been laid before the committee. 1st, a bridge of cast iron, with others of stone, at Inys y Moch, estimate 262,500/. This islet, is a solid limestone rock, seen at low water, the width of the strait 450 f. The 2d. near the same place, estimate 259,140/ The 3d. over the Smelly rocks, of one cast- iron arch 350 f. in the span, with 2 collat¬ eral ones 300 each; estimate 265,812/. The committee most approved the last plan, producedby mr. John Rennie. The spaces between Penlass and Ynys Well- tog, is quite dry at low water, and thence to the main land of Anglesea there is on¬ ly a creek, or inlet which might be en¬ tirely shut up. This is the only mail road into Anglesea. The Menai is here about half amile wide. Upon the Angle¬ sea side are stables and other buildings for the convenience of persons arriving from Ireland, who may have to wait be¬ fore they can be ferried over. Jackson, the master of the Gcorge-inn, at Bangor- ferry, has a large farm upon the island, which produces wheat, barley, oats, and artificial grasses. He has even sown saint. foin with success. The Inn at this place supplies post-chaises, and is equal as to accommodation to any in Bangor, but they have learnt to charge, even in this retreat, as high as the inns on the great London road. It is, however, beau¬ tifully situated, among hanging gardens upon a rock overlooking the Menai. At this place is a harper named Pritch¬ ard, of distinguished talents, being not only a performer upon the harp, but ama- 91 BANGOR FERRY. 92 ker of that instrument, and composer of Pentre Berew, the proprietors expect to music. Edward 1. had determined to obtain an abundance of good coal, an ar- build a bridge at this place, but was div- tide very much desired in this district. erted from it by the Scottish war. Upon an eminence above the ferry is a handsome newly-erected mansion, called Upper Treborth or Gorphysfa (resting- place) commanding delightful views, built by lord Lucan, the residence of Thomas Parry Jones, esq ; and at a short distance, Flasynllnnfair, col. Peacock. The british copper coin of Carron (Corau- sius) and of Alectus, who both reigned in the 3d. century, were found in this neighbourhood a few years ago, in fine preservation.—Lloyd's Beaumaris Bay, 1799. Upon the shore grows abun¬ dance ofCochlearia officinalis, C. danica Papaver cambricum. Lichen fuscus, L. lanatus, L. coerulescens, Bryum verticil- latum; and on the rising ground, between the city and the ferry, the Hypericum an- gustifolium, and Galleopsis villosa. The munificient lord Bulkeley has suppli¬ ed, at a vast expense, an excellent car¬ riage road from Porthaethwy to Beauma¬ ris, along the shelving side ol the hill, a considerable height above high-water mark. The former road was not only circuitous but inconveniently narrow and uneven. In advancing upon the new road, in extent 4 m., the charming bay gradually opens, presenting a succession of unrivalled picturesque and sublime scenery. To Gwyndy on the way to Holy-head, after passing the Menai, Plas nev/ydt), the seat of the earl of Uxbridge might be visited, on the 1. 4 m. An Inn, called the Three Tuns, is stationed upon the An- glesea side. Brunt Turnpike-gate, 2m. 1 f. (On the r. to Beaumaris through Llandegfan, 4$ m.) After having advan¬ ced 4 m. on the road to Gwyndy from the landing place at Bangor-ferry, Penmyn- nydd, lies \ m. to the 1. noted as the resi¬ dence of the Tudyr or Tudor family, and the birth-place of the celebrated Owain- ap Meredydd ap Tudyr, commonly call¬ ed Owen Tudor, who was born about the year 1385. Ceint, 3 m. 1 f. (A road from this place to the 1. 1 m. leads to Llanfihangel, at a short distance from which village a bed of coal has been dis¬ covered, under the patronage of the earl of Uxbridge, mr. Meyric, andothers. At Obstructions from water occurred, but those have been removed by a powerful steam-engine. On the 1. of the road to Llangefni is Hirdrefaig, mrs. Lloyd; § m. further on the 1. Tregarnedd, mrs Grindley. This house derives it's name from an immense Carnedd or piled heap of stones surrounded by a circle of upright ones in an adjacent field. Beneath are numerous hollow passages, formed by flat flagstones laid upon others placed edgewise. It was once the noble residence of that most valiant and distinguished chieftain Edny- fed Fychan, or Ednyved Vychan, the able counsellor and minister or Llewelyn the great in the 13th century. He was suc¬ cessful against a powerful english army, which invaded the frontier, slaying with his own hand, 3 of the principal leaders, carrying their heads to his royal master. From this personage was descended in a direct line, the famonsOwenTudor. The ancestors of Henry 7, Plenty, 8, Edward 6, and every heir to the british throne since that period. At this place was born the ill-fated Sir Gryffydd Llwyd, grand¬ son of Ednyfcd Fychan just mentioned. He assented to acknowledge, as potentate any person nominated by Edward 1. but ' feeling uneasy under the yoke of subor¬ dination, perceiving the wrongs and op, pressions of his duped and suffering coun¬ trymen, and indignant at an affront offer¬ ed to him, he meditated a revolt. For this purpose he endeavoured about the year 1317 to form an alliance with Edward Bruce, then king of Ireland, but without effect. In 1322 he took up arms, and was aided by the diversions from other insur¬ rections under Madoc and Owen Glyn- dwr, but suffering a defeat by the English troops he retreated into Anglesea to his house of Tregarnedd, which was fortified with a foss and ramparts. He garrisoned with his followers a strong hold called Jnys Cefni, situated in a morassy part of the Malltraeth sands, adout 3 m. distant, which he insulated by bringing round it the waters of the river Cefni. The foss still remains nearly perfect, being 8 yards wide and 4 deep. Here, however, alter a desperate struggle he was taken pri¬ soner, confined some time in Rhyddlan BANCOR FERRY. 94 castle, and at length executed. Llangef¬ ni, 2 m. If This village is situated in a beautiful vale. A few years since it con¬ sisted of a single house, which stood near the bridge over the Cefni. In 1801 it contained 97 houses and 539 inhabitants. Besides the church there are 2 dissenting chapels, 2 good inns, shops of every de¬ scription, and a weekly market. (On the r. is a road to Tregaian, distant 24 m. no¬ ticed as the birth-place and residence of of William ap Howcl ap Jorwerth, called the welsh patriarch, who lived about the latter end of the 16th century, and died at the age of 105. His first wife brought him 22 children; the 2d. 10; the 3d, 4, ancf 2 concubines bore him 7, making in the whole 43. In the year 1581, When his youngest son was only 2 years and f old, his eldest was 84. Between this place and Llanerchymedd is Maes llhos llhy- fcl, where a most decisive battle was fought between the forces of Owen Gwyn¬ edd, prince of North Wales, and an invar ding army of Erse, Manks, and Normans. In repulsing the various attempts of Hen¬ ry 2, he acquired considerable glory. To tl)e e. of this common is Cnstell, where roman coins of several emperors have been found, but no vestages discovered of any station. One m. beyond Llangef¬ ni, on the 1. is a road to L/angristiolis, dis¬ tant about 2 m., the birth-place of doctor Henry Maurice. His father was curate of the parish, and after having given his son a scholastic education at Beaumaris, in 1664, he was admitted servitor of Jesus College, Oxford. He afterwards attend¬ ed sir Leoline Jenkins who was sent am¬ bassador to Cologne. On his return he was patronised by dr. Lloyd succssively bishop of St. Asaph, Litchfield, and Wor¬ cester, and became chaplain to Archbish¬ op Sandcroft. Asa polemic he refuted David Clarkson’s treatise entitled “ No evidence for Diocessan Episcopacy in the Primitive times.” In 1691 doctor Mau¬ rice, having been preferred to the rectory of Newington, was elected Margaret pro¬ fessor of divinity in Oxford and soon af¬ ter taking possession of the annexed pre¬ bend in Worcester cathedral, he fell a martyr to disease. Returning to the road 1 m. beyond, a little on the 1. is Heneg •* hays, the old church. On the r. at some distance, lie Llangaiyllo and Tregaian .) G w yndy, 5 m. The road from Bangor-ferry to Caer¬ narvon has nothing extraordinary to ar¬ rest attention, till the 4th mile-stone has been passed ; then, on a sudden turn of the road, thestraits of the Menai,the wood¬ ed isle of Anglesca, and beyond these the distant Rivel mountains on one side, open into a placid scene, while the black pre¬ cipices and shagged sides of the rocks of Caernarvonshire on the other, form a most delightful contrast. Proceeding on, the town and castle of Caernarvon, after some time, enter the scene, and complete one of the most exquisite landscapes the eye ever beheld.—Bingley. To Anglesea, mr. Warner, on his sec¬ ond walk, took the ferry at Garth Point, at the distance of \ m. from Bangor. Win¬ ding up a declivity which rises over the Menai, he took a path across the fields to Beaumaris; now “treading the sacred ground of Mona, the holy land of the an¬ cient Britons, the great school of Druidism, so often stained by the bloody rites of a superstition the most dreadful that ever enchained the human mind.” There is a new and excellent road to Beaumaris, cut at the expense of lord Bulkeley, out of the cliffs v\ hich form the Anglesea shores of the Menai, and se¬ cured towards the sea by a strong stone wall, about 5 f. high This instance of public spirit, shortens a very circuitous road from Bangor-Ferry to Beaumaris. Mr. Bingley made an Excursion to Lord Penrhyn’s Slate Quarries, by way of Nant Frangon ; waterfalls of Ben- glog; LlynOgwen; Llyn Idwel; in the whole 28 m. The greatest part may be performed in carriages, or on horseback. On the way to Capel Curig, soon af¬ ter leaving Bangor on the 1. is Penrhyn Castle, and at a short distance near the road is Ll andig ai, the river Ogwen run¬ ning upon the 1. To tire Ferry 1mites, thence to Beaumaris 5 J miles, Wyndham. — Port Penrhyn, ^mile, Aikin; Pennant. — Caernarvon 94 miles, Bingley ; Hutton. — Conway, llj miles, Hutton ; Gilpin. — Conway, through Port Penrhyn and Penmaen Mawr,.15 miles, Warner. — Beaumaris, 6 miles, Warner’s 2d Walk ; Skrine. — Back to Conway, 15 miles, Gilpin. — Penrhyn Castle, 1 mile. — Capel Curig, 15J miles. — Gwyndy, 14§ miles. 95 BANGOR ISCOED. BARDSLEY-ISLE. BARMOUTH. 96 From Holt, S miles, Pennant. - Ruabon, 7 miles, ISingley. - Wrexham, 7 miles. BANGOR ISCOED, is situated in a de¬ tached part of Flintshire, 3 miles n-e. of Overton, on the banks of the Dee, which here passes under a (nidge of five arches. From a few hundred yards below the bridge, a beautiful landscape is presented, including the river, bridge, and the tower of the church, rising above a clump of trees. This place, at present very incon¬ siderable, is famed on account of having been the site of the most ancient monas¬ tery in the kingdom, founded by Lucius, the son of Coel, the first Christian king of Britain, sometime previous to the year 180. This celebrated college was re¬ markable for it’s valuable library, and it’s number of learned men. Gildas Nennius, a disciple of Elvod, who lived in the 7th century, and wrote in Latin an incorrect history of Britain, which is yet extant, was one of the abbots. According to Speed, the monastery of Bangor, in the year 596 contained not less than 2400 monks, 100 of which passed in their turns one hour of devotion. This place appears also to have been the site of Banchorium, a famous roman station ; but there are no remains either of the monastery or city. Inn. George and Dragon. To 0»erton,3 miles; thence to Ruabon, 7 miles. Pennant, Bingley. BARDSLEY ISLE, called in Welsh, YrYnis Enlli (the island in the current) situated near the s-e. point of the promon¬ tory of Llyn, in Caernarvonshire, is the property of Lord Newborough. It is of a moderate elevation, somewhat more than 2 miles long, and one in breadth, containing about 370 acres of land, of which near a third is occupied by a high mountain, affording sustenance only for a few sheep and rabbits. It’s distance from the main land, is about a league. On the s-e. side, which only is accessible to the mariner, there is a small well-shelter¬ ed harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 30 or 40 tons burden. The soil is clay¬ ey, and produces excellent barley and wheat. No reptile is ever seen on this island except the common water lizard. It contains but 8 houses, yet the number of inhabitants is upwards of 70. Few of the present inhabitants are natives of the island. Their chief employment, besides managing their land, is fishing. The ab¬ bot’s house is a large stone building, inhab¬ ited by several of the natives; not far from it, is a singular chapel or oratory, being a long arched edifice,with aninsulatedstone altar near the e. end. Dubricius, archbish¬ op of Caerleon, almost worn out with age, resigned his see to st. David, retired here, and died a. d. 522. He was interred upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after ages, that about the year 1107, his remains were removed by the procurement of Urban, then bishop of Landaff, and reinterred in that cathe¬ dral, of which Dubricius had been the first bishop. St Dubricius was a man of singu¬ lar eminence for learning and piety, whom Bayle calls Dubricius Gwaynianus a solo upud Demetas sic dictus, which has been proved to be in the parish of Fishguard, [Cam. Regis, 1795, p. 242.] He was archbishop of Caerleon, and metropolitan of all Wales, in the time of Aurelius Am- brosius. Prior to his elevation he taught a school on the banks of his native river, which was much resorted to from all countries. He was a strenuous opposer of the Pelagian heresy, and assisted at the memorable synod held at Llandewi Brefi, in Caerdiganshire, for confuting that doc¬ trine. From Llanilltyd, 10 miles, Pennant. -Harlech, 10 miles, Bingley; Warner. -Dolgelle, 1l^ miles, J. Evans. -Towyn, 11 miles, Pennant. BARMOUTH, or Abermaw, in Meri¬ onethshire, is placed near the conflux of the river Maw, or Mawddach, in a situa¬ tion wretchedly fitted for a town. The houses are disposed, either among the sand, in a low situation, or reared at dif¬ ferent heights on the side of a huge rock, like part of the city of Edinburgh; and said to resemble the town of Gibraltar. These houses form 8 tiers, one range a- bove another, to which there is no ap¬ proach but by steps cut in the rock. The floors of one row is about level with the chimnies immediately in front, so that a person standing at his door, may look down the chimnies of the neighbourhood below. The first range regales the sec¬ ond with it’s smoke, the second the third, 97 BARMOUTH. 38 &c. till we arrive at the uppermost, which in a westerly wind, takes the mixed per¬ fume of all.—Bingley. An attempt was made a few years ago, to make this place a general depot for the woollen goods of N. Wales, intended for exportation, but it did not succeed. It is frequented dur¬ ing the summer season, as a sea-bathing place. The Cors-y-gedol Arms is a com¬ fortable inn, the conductor of which ac¬ commodates lodgers at another large and good building. Here is good stabling, post-chaisc, and bathing macliines, witli guides; also admirable harping, and an assembly twice a week. A delightful promenade is on the beach. Barmouth is the port of Merionethshire ; the number of ships belonging to it is about 100. The population of the place is estimated at 1600. Not far from Barmouth the river Mawddach separates, leaving a small is¬ land called Ynys y BrawiI, or the Friar’s Island. On the lop of the rock, called Dinas Gorlin, was formerly a military trench or fence. “ I left Barmouth,” says mr. Bingley, “ and proceeded along the bank of the Mawddach, usually called Avon Vawr, (the great river) towards Dolcelle. It was high water, and the whole bed of the river being filled, made the different landscapes in the scene appear truly pic¬ turesque. The first 2 m. which lay along what the inhabitants of Barmouth call the Beach, formed the most interesting part of the journey. In the composition of the views, scarcely any thing appeared want¬ ing ; there was every requisite of moun¬ tain and vale, wood, water, meadows, and rocks, arranged in beautiful order. Be¬ yond the beach, the road winds at a little distance from the river, among the low mountains from different stations, in which I had views of the river, partly hidden by intervening mountains, which produced the appearance of elegant and picturesque landscape.” On this coast are, geese, gulls, black and white sea-crows, penguins, puffins, ring ouzles, cormorants, wheat-ears, and many small¬ er birds. On the sands grow the Glaux maritima, Antirrhinium orontium, Eu¬ phorbia peplis. Cineraria palustris, Arena- ria maritima, A. peploidcs, A. rubra, var. B ; and Cheiranthus sinuatus. On the rocks, Plantago maritima, Crithmum ma- ritimuni, Salicornia herbacca. In dia- 5 dy places, on the 1. of the road to Dol- gelly, the Melampyrumsylvaticum. On the shores, Cochlearia officinalis, Upon a rock behind the town, Fumaria lutea, A single rock near the harbour, abounds with the Armeria statice. Many prefer making a journey from Barmouth to Dol- gelley by water. The river, however, is diminished so much in width and depth within the last m. as not to admit even of a pleasure-boat to reach Dolgelley, which obliges company to walk £ of a m. to the town. At the distance of two miles from Dol¬ gelley is Llaneltyd, a neat village, whence is a road which winds along a dark and gloomy vale, towards Maen- twrog. From the bridge this vale is seen to great advantage. There is a footpath from this village leading to an ancient monastic ruin, called Y Fanner, or Kym- mer Abbey. [See Dolcellev.] Mr. Warner, in passing this way, sud¬ denly turned upon Vonl ddu, a stone bridge of one arch, bestriding a furious torrent, which rushing from a dark wood¬ ed glen, forms a beautiful cascade above, “fire he had proceeded a mile further, another variety in the scenery of the most striking kind occurred. The moun¬ tains in front receding froth the river, are replaced by rich meadows, through which the stream widening and deepening flows with silent majesty. A vast decliv¬ ity forms the distant scene, diversified with woods and lawns, and rural dwel¬ lings with a partial view of Dolgelley. Behind are caught the different reaches and windings of the river, which loses it¬ self at length in the great waste of waters, together with the shaded hills that confine it on one side, and the rocky precipices of Cader Idris on the other.” Proceeding to Harlech, the road lies along the flat, undulating shore of the Bay of Cardigan. On the right is the western termination of the upper Merionethshire chain, ending in abrupt crags and rude precipices, down to the strand; on our left, the ocean, dashing over the irregular sands, and foaming against the rocky shores of the peninsula of Penmorfa, which lies stretched in prospect, forming the northern horn of Cardigan bay. The road deviating from the shore, favours an ascent to visit the environs of Corsy Gedol. the ancient seat of the Vaughans. The 99 BARMOUTH. BASING WERK-ABBEY 100 mansion affords nothing striking. The woods abound with large timber, but so af l'ectcdbythe westernwinds, that they have the appearance of being shorn at top, like the wood of Margam in Glamorganshire. The vicinity, however, abounds in british antiquities ; Craig y Dinas, is a conical hill, whose summit is surrounded with a vast pile of rough stones, used as ramparts, and supposed to have been a british post. It has an oblique entrance with stone facings; and near it are 2 other ramparts of stone: n-w. of this, on the top of another hill, is Castell dinas Curtin, entrenched round with an advanced work in front; at a small dis¬ tance in the plain, between these posts, are a variety of druidic remains ; crom¬ lechs, carnedds, stone circles, maenhiri- on, and kist vaen. Contiguous are the small lakes of Llyn Bodlyn, and Liya Jrdd- yn\ the former famous for it’s char, and the latter for a species of trout, men. tioned by Gyraldus, with a long toad shap¬ ed head. Hence is the pass of Bwlc/i te Ardudwy; but mr. Evans says it is so ardu¬ ous that he preferred returning to the road not far distant from Harlech. To Bulgelly, 11A miles, Bingley; Warner. — Harlech, 10 miles, J. Evans Pennant. — Dolgelley and Falls, to Tan y bwlch, 28 miles. Vrom Holywell 1^ miles, Pennant; Bingley; Wyndham; Skrine. BASINGWERK ABBEY, Maeslglas or CreenjieUL Monastery, lies e. of Holywell in Flintshire. The architecture of this monastic building is no way remarkable either for it’s elegance or good execution. The doors, and some of the lower arches, are semicircular, simple, and unornament¬ ed, the windows long, narrow, and point¬ ed. It is situated upon a gentle emin¬ ence above a valley, watered by the copi¬ ous springs which issue from St. Wine- fred’s Well, and on the borders of a great marsh, which extends towards the coast of Cheshire. It’s mouldering walls of stone of a reddish colour, are shaded by some fine trees. The fragments which re¬ main are scarcely sufficient to indicate what this Abbey has formerly been. The Church which lay on the e. side is totally ■destroyed. The Refectory is tolerably en¬ tire, and has on one side a large recess, with two round arches. The cells for the lodgings of the monks, with a small window to each, were above. The chap¬ el of Knights Templars, founded here by Henry 2, is spacious and elegant. The abbey itself was inhabited about the year 1720, but afterwards pulled down, by or¬ der of lady Mostyn to build a house ncaT the ruins. The situation is delightful, commanding an extensive prospect of the river Dee, Chester, Park-gate, and the Lancastrian hills. The architecture of the round arches and short massy columns are saxon, and the narrow pointed win¬ dows gothic. This abbey is supposed by Tanner to have been founded about 1131. by Ranulph earl of Chester, and made an Abbey of cistertian monks, by Henry 2, in 1139. In the 26 of Henry 8, it’s lands and possessions produced a yearly reve¬ nue of 157/. 15s. 2<7. it was grantedby that monarch to Henry ap Harry. An ancient brick barn which stands near the ruins is conjectured to have been the grainery be¬ longing the Monastery. A gravestone found among rhe ruins records the inter¬ ment here of George Petrc, son to Wm. lord Petre, baron of Ingratestonc in Essex. He died at Wexford in 1647, aged 34. He was probably brought to this place on ac¬ count of it’s supposed sanctity. At a short distance from the ruins is an oak of great age, called the Abbot’s Oak, which measures 15 f. 2 inches in circumference. Not far from this place, on the edge of Watts’s Dyke, stood formerly astrong fort, called Basingwerk Castle, built as lord I.yttelton supposes, by one of the earls of : Chester. It was rebuilt by Henry 2, af¬ ter his escape from Euloe, having been demolished in a former reign. In 1165 Owen Gwynedd, after many unsuccess¬ ful attempts, took it by storm, and then levelled it to the ground. The rich pas¬ tures which immediately surround this abbey and the plantations on every side, contribute exceedingly to it’s picturesque beauty. The oaks and elms, tho’ a large size, appear withered and blasted by the channel-breezes; but the sycamores flour¬ ish, even to their summits. This fact may afford a hint to planters. The syca¬ mores and maples, indeed, seem to be the only trees, which are not liable to be in¬ jured by the saline winds, and spray of the sea.—Wyndham. From this place, mr. Skrine ascended a very long and steep hill, whence he enjoyed a won¬ derful prospect towards the coast; while on the other hand, hill rose upon hill in 102 101 BASINGWERK-ABBEY. BEACHLEY. BEAUMARIS. irregular confusion, till the Caernarvon¬ shire mountains closed the scene; above which the lofty summits of Snowdon towered with majestic pre-eminence. He then descended into the fertile vale of Clwydd, or Dyffryn clwyd, a tract of great extent and singular fertility and beauty. The small rivers of Clwydd and Elwy run nearly parallel one to the other, through the greatest part of it’s length. Pleasant villages, are scattered in this pleasing territory, and it’s three towns, Ruthin, Denbigh, and St. Asaph, stand in fine positions. Plants. Anchusa scmpervirens, a- mong the ruins. Campanula trachelium, among bushes, near the castle. Sapona- ria officinalis, among the ruins and rub¬ bish . Back to Holywell, Pennant; Eingley; Wynd- ham. To Denbigh, 15 miles, Skrine. BEACHLEY, in Gloucestershire, is the Ferry across the Severn, to Monmouth, opposite to Aust Ferry, or Old Passage, which is upon the edge of Gloucester, shire also. At Tudenkam, near this place, the fa¬ mous ditch called Clwyd Offa begins. Tu- denham parish is bounded by the Wye and Severn, and in it is half of Chepstow- Bridge. At the point where the two rivr ers divide may be seen upon a rock at low water, the ruins of St. Tecta’s. To Monmouth, through St. Briavels 4j m. Clearwell 2 m. (Cleanvell-hause, ) Newland, If m. £ m. on the r. is High Meadow-house, lord Gage. (Near Redbrook, on the r. to Mitchel Dean, 12 m.) Redbrook, 1 m. Cross the Wye river, to Monmouth, 2§ m. To Chepstow, 8§ miles. — Newnham, 16 miles. From Llanelian, 14 miles, Bingley. t- Bangor, 6 miles, Wyndham ; Warner; Skrine. - Plas Newydd, 6 miies, Pennant. - Penmaen mawr, 6 miles, Gilpin. BEAUMARIS, in Anglesea, tho’ but a small place, is the capital of the island, finely situated upon it’s s-e border, and on a low shore of red-sted, called Beaumaris- bay. The present town appears to have originated from the circumstance of a cas¬ tle having been erected here about the close of the 13th century,by Edward 1, up^ on the site of a small oratory, denomina¬ ted St. Meugin’s Chapel. At this time the name was changed from Bornover to Beaumaris, i. e. the fine and beautiful marsh, from the French beau, fair, and ma- rais, a marsh. The English for some time after the conquest affected to call both persons and places by french names, as Beauclerk, De la Mere, &c. The re¬ mains of the Castle are now included within the domains of Lord Bulkeley; they lie close to the town, covering a large space of ground, in a low situation. It’s erection was subsequent to it’s proud rivals Conway and Caernarvon. The ne-r cessity of the present castle arose from Rhyddlan, upon the opposite shore, being often possessed by the Welsh princes. This castle appears to have been the last off the three great fortresses erected by Edward. On the conquest of Wales in 1295, he fixed upon this spot with a view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under it’s wall?, by a canal; part of which, call r cd Llyn y Green, was, till lately remain¬ ing. From the period of it’s erection to the time of Charles 1, it does not appear to have been at all conspicuous on the page of history. The first governor ap¬ pointed by the founder, was sir William Pickmore, a gascon, who was long con¬ stable of the castle and captain of the town ? Mr. Pennant says that ‘1 colonel sir Rich¬ ard Bulkeley, and several gentlemen of the county held it for the king till June 1646, when it surrendered on honourable terms to general Mytton,” Tour, iii, 30, 8vo. edit. But in a Description of the in¬ surrection in Anglesea, and the taking of Beaumaris castle, published in 1669, by the rev.—Williams, master of the gram¬ mar school, the 2d of October 1648, is mentioned qs the day on which the garri r son surrendered. The constableship of the castle passed into various hands. On the accession of Charles 2, lord viscount Bulkeley was constable of the castle, which at present is the p.operty of the crown, and the custody is vested in sir Robert Williams. The style of qichitec r ture displayed in Beaumaris castle resem¬ bles Edwards’s other fortresses, partaking more of the eastern than the westernmode of building. The Jowness of the sitp, t),a 103 BEAUMARIS. - 104 expansive diameter of it’s circular towers small theatre, the sides ornamented with and bastions, together with the dilapidat- receding pointed arches; and an elegant ed state of it’s walls, deprives this struc- groined roof, supported by ribs, springing ture, though exceedingly ponderous, of from pilasters, between which are 3 lan- that prominent character, and imposing cet-shaped windows. A communication effect, so strikingly apparent in the proud- was made between various parts of the er piles of Caernarvon and Conway. The inner court, by means of a surrounding shape approaches to an oblong square, gallery, about 6 f. wide, a considerable bounded by a case, which encircles the portion of which is yet entite. Within castle. This outer ballium consists of recesses in the sides of the gallery are low but massy embattled walls, flanked several square apertures, apparently once by ten circular bastion towers; oneateach furnished with trap doors, which opened angle is very large, and 3 are of lesser di- into rooms beneath ; but their usehas not mensions in the intermediate spaces, on been ascertained. Mr. Grose thinks they the n. and s. sides. There are two en- may have been used for the purposes of trance gateways ; one to the w. is formed the two circular e. towers, i. e. imprison- by a large pointed arch between two ment. A tennis, fives court, and bowl- strong square towers, defended by two ing-green have been formed within the other collateral ones of dissimilar shape, interior. The Town of Beaumaris This was fitted up with portcullises, and was surrounded with walls, for it’s de- cvidently formed the sallying postern, fence, and placed under the government The other entrance, facing the sea, is of a corporation, endowed with various formed by two circular bastion towers, privileges’ and lands. Mr. Lloyd sup- between which a pointed arched way was poses, from local tokens being circulated fortified with four portcullises : on the 1. by opulent tradesmen, about the year rises a large square tower, and on the r. Ib50, of which he had several in his pos- is a curtain, or long narrow advanced session, that it was a place of considerable work, embattled and machicolatedat top, traffic. The piesent town consists of sev- intended for the defence of those employ- eral streets, of which one terminated by ed upon the canal, in supplying the gar- the castle is very handsome, and the hou- rison. Under an arch in this work, pass- ses are generally well built. According ed the wet foss or moat surrounding the to the census of 1801, it’s population a- whole ; a communication through an mounted to 1576, and the number of hous- aperture in the upper part of the arch es were 267. It’s markets, which are on seems intended as an opening through Wednesdays and Saturdays, are well sup- which to receive their supplies. The plied with provisions. Beaumaris is much rings for the mooring chains stillremain in frequented during the summer months, the walls of this projection, which is call- by numerous genteel families, attracted ed The Gunner’s walk. Within this for- by the pleasantness of this part of the i- tified envelope, at a considerable equi- sland, and to avail themselves of the ben- distant space from the walls, stands the efit of sea-bathing. The sands are fine, principal body of the castle, which is far but there are no bathing machines; the superior in height to the envelope; and accommodations are dressing-boxes fixed at a distance appears to rise from it as the upon the shorei The site of St. base. It’s form is nearly quadrangular, Meugan’s is still shewn, in a field, near having a grand round tower at each angle the new battery. This'Was a chapel of and the connecting curtains are flanked ease to Llanilegfan, prior to the building with another that is circular in the centre of the Chapel of St. Mary’s, which is now of each face. The interior consists of an the parochial church of Beaumaris. This area 190 f. square with obtuse corners, is a handsome structure, consisting of a The centre of the n-w. side consists of a chancel, nave, and two aisles, with a magnificent hall in length 70 f. breadth large square embattled tower. Upon an 23, and proportionate in height; with a elegant altar tomb in the chancel lie two range of 5 large painted windows, con- recumbent figures, well sculptured in stituting a handsome front to the inner gypsum or alabaster ; one of them is a quadrangle. On the r. side of thd area knight in armour, his head resting upon are the remains of a chapel, in form of a a helmet, and a lion couchant at his feet. 105 BEAUMARIS. 106 A female figure is by his side, habited in a long robe. Various diminutive figures, in the costume of monks and knights, decorate the sarcophagus of this singu¬ lar monument, which is said to have been removed from Llanfacs, at the dissolu¬ tion of that religious house, but to whose memory it was erected cannot be ascer¬ tained. Upon the s. side of the altar a large mural oblong tablet bears several devices and inscriptions. In the vestry adjoining were deposited the remains of lady Beatrice Herbert, daughter of the celebrated mirror of chivalry, the lord Herbert of Cherbury. Near which lies interred the rev. Gronwy Davies, with an inscription concluding as follows ; “ Here lies learning, friendship, love ; and innocencyof the dove. Within this grave and in the dust his ever courteous body must until the resureclion lie ; then he shall live and death shall die.” The Free-School was erected and liberal¬ ly endowed, by David Hughes, esq. in the year 1603, who ten years afterwards founded also an excellent alms-house, for C poor persons, to whom he granted small annuities. Theapartmentsaie situateda- bout 1 m. out of the town, near the lodge- gate to Baron-hill park, the proprietor of which has added 4 more. D. Hughes was born about the middle of the 16th cen¬ tury, in a cottage now in ruins, upon the farm of Gian y gors, in the parish of Llun- tri Saint, in Anglesea. He left the island early in life, in a very humble station, but by prudence and propriety of conduct, he made a decent fortune. T is here the active worth of Hughes appears, a blest Asylum for the wreck of years ! If there his views the opening mind engage, here he supports the trembling limbs of age; his breast embrac’d within his godlike plan, at once the morn and evening hours of man ! And ye who here his lasting bounty share, whose tranquil days decline without a care! if still, as night shall close, day greet your eyes, no grateful aspirations reach the skies, indignant heaven beholds you with a frown, nor gives the ingrate, Life’s immortal crown. Lloyd. The Old Town-Hall, built in 1563, has been taken down, and under the patron¬ age of lord viscount Bulkeley, another more cle-gant has been erected upon it’s site. The basement story includes a prison, and excellent shambles, secuted with iron gates and railing. Above is a large rpom, and other apartments for the transaction of municipal business : the latter, used for the assemblies, is the fin¬ est ball-room in the principality. The town re-incorporated in the 4th year of Elizabeth, is governed by a mayor, recor¬ der, 2 bailiffs, 24 burgesses, 2 serjeants at mace, a town-clerk, gaoler, 4 constables, and a water bailiff. It sends one mem¬ ber to Parliament, and differing from eve¬ ry other welsh borough, the elective franchise is vested in the mayor, bailiffs, and capital burgesses, the common bur¬ gesses having no vote. The mayor is the returning officer, and lord Bulkeley is con¬ sidered the patron. The Couniy Hall is a small low building, being nei¬ ther conveniently formed nor respectable in it’s appearance. The Custom¬ house stands upon the Green near the edge of the water. Beaumaris Bay, con¬ sists of an expansive opening in front of the tow’n, so sheltered by the island of Friesholme and the great Ormeshead, as to allow vessels of considerable burden to ride in safety, during the most stormy weather. The depth of water near the town, at ebb-tide, is from 6 to 7 fathoms ; but the channel scarcely exceeds £ m. in breadth. The greater part of the bay, is left dry for several miles, when the tide is out, which part is called The Lavan Sands, These once formed a habitable hundred, belonging to the territory of Arfon. They were formerly called Wylofaen, or the place of weeping, from the shrieks and lamentations of the inhabitants, at the time when the land was suddenly overwhelm¬ ed by the sea, in the days of Helig Voel ap Clunog, or Glanog, in the 6th century. Lavan is a corruption of Traeth Talaven, or the fermented heap, allusive to the boiling up of water in the quicksands. This is not the only instance of the en¬ croachment of the sea upon this coast. In the churchyard of Abergeley, in Den¬ bighshire, near Rhuddlan marsh there is a dateless epitaph, mentioned by Pennant, as evidence that a vast tract of inhabited country extended at least 2 m. n. of that place. The inscription is this. “ Yma mae’n gorwedd yn nrenwent Mihangel, gvvr oedd ai annedd dair i’r milltir gog- lcdd.” In this church yard lies a man who lived three miles to the north of it. But as a better proof, (continues mr. Pen¬ nant,) I have observed, at low water, far from the clayey banks, a long tract of 107 BEAUMARIS. io8 hard loam, filled with the bodies of oak trees, tolerably entire ; but so soft as to cut with a knife as easily as wax.” Tour, iii, 155, 8vo. edit. A manuscript docu¬ ment, quoted in Lloyd’s Beaumaris Bay, page 18, written in the time of James 1, contains a terrier and description of vari¬ ous parcels of lands situated in this vifcin- ity, with their valuation. The Fer¬ ry, was granted by charter to the corpo¬ ration in the 4th year of Elizabeth. It lies near the town. The place of embarking or landing, is the point anciently known under the appellation of Penrkyn Safncs, but afterwards Osmund’s Air, from a mal¬ efactor who bn his way to execution be¬ ing asked where he was going, answered “ To take the air.” The walk over the sands at low water is firm and good ; they should be passed 3 hours after high water, and will be safe for 4 hours ; or in other words 2 hours before ldw water and two after. The following table will prove an accurate guide. LAVAN SANDS. High Water Low Water, Moon’s Age. H. M. II M. 1 or 16 11 18 5 6 2 or 17 12 6 5 54 3 or 18 12 54 6 42 4 or 19 1 42 7 30 5 or 20 2 30 8 18 6 or 21 3 18 9 6 i or 22 4 6 9 54 8 or 23 4 54 10 42 9 or 24 5 42 ii 30 10 or 25 6 30 12 18 11 or 26 i 18 l 6 12 or 27 8 6 l 54 i3 or 28 8 54 2 42 14 or 29 9 42 3 30 15 or 30 10 30 4 18 Explanation. When the moon is 1 or 16 days old it is high water at Beaumaris at 18 minutes past ] 1 o’clock. The time of low water on the same days is 6 minutes past 5. These precautions are essentially neces¬ sary to be taken, for near the times of the sands being covered by the sea they are frequently shifting, and in many placesbe- come so watery orquick.astohave prov¬ ed both dangerous and fatal. This way is equally perilous in foggy weather, but as some persons are necessitated to pass in every season, the large bell at Aber is hu¬ manely rung, to direct them towards the sound. At ebb-tide the channel between the sands and the town are a i m. wide and 6 or 7 feet deep. The Bay has good anchorage for ships, being 7 fathoms deep at the lowest ebb. Yet with these advan¬ tages the place has very little trade, and is supported chiefly by the wants of the men belonging the numerous vessels which lie waiting for winds, or that run in, during heavy gales to find security. Baron Hill, the seat of Thomas James Warren Bulkeley, lord Bulkeley, is situ¬ ated upon an erhinente above Beaumaris, at the head df an extended lawn sloping to the town and castle, and finely screen¬ ed and backed with umbrageous woods. “ The original mansion of lord Bulkeley’s ancestors, in Wales, was Court mawr, in Castle-street, Beaumaris. They after¬ wards built the house called Old Place, and resided there till the reign of James 1, when sir Richard Bulkeley, being in great favour with prince Henry (eldest son of that monarch) built Baron-hill for his re¬ ception when on his way to Ireland, where the king, his father, intended to send him as viceroy ; but the untimely death of the young Prince so affected sir Richard, that he gave up his original and magnificent plan, and contented himself with what was then completed, as his family seat; The house has since been greatly enlarg¬ ed and improved by it’s present possessor, under the directionof Mr. Samuel Wyatt;” Lloyd’s Beaumaris Bay, p. 11. “Noth¬ ing,” says the writer of the article Angle- sea, in the Beauties of England and Wales, “ can perhaps exceed the situation of this mansion, as to eligibility; but the site and the structure by no means correspond. The height is too great both for the ele¬ vation of the ground, and the extent of the base. There is also a great deficien¬ cy as to the proportionate range of the different stories, and a want of uniformi¬ ty between the tiers of windows. Des¬ titute of a vestibule, the simicircular cen¬ tral front appears meagre, and the 2 side doprs savour to much of an entrance to a theatre. The kind of conical slated roofs visible above the parapet walls, present an unseemly appearance at a distance, and add to the confined effect of the upper sto¬ ries. The grounds surrounding this charming residence, are richly diversified by nature, and variegated by art; the lawns, groves, and bridges, with other or¬ namental buildings, except in one in¬ stance, finely disposed; and the numer¬ ous walks and rides judiciously laid out. But the view from Baron-hill far surpasses all, and is justly the boast of the island. 109 BEAUMARIS. 110 At a short distance from this consecrated spot is a semicircular bastion fort, mount¬ ed with 4 pounders, and from this part of the elevation, the prospect is enchanting- ly gratifying. The sea, to the n. forms a most magnificent bay, between the coast of Lancashire, and the Isle of Man, the Menaiopening into it,betweenlheOrme’s head and Priestholme, with all the gran¬ deur of an american river. The limits of the water in front, expand into a vast am¬ phitheatre, formed by a semicircular range, of mountains, forraiug 3 regular grada¬ tions to the chief of the snowdonian range, the alpine ridge which flanks the e. side of Nant Fraucon ; the protrusive promon¬ tory of Penmaenmavvr, with it’s attendant Penmaen bach ; and the enormous mass of Llandudno, rising like an island out of the sea are rude, but striking features in the prospect.” Vol. xvii, p. 180. Mr. Bingley’s criticisms on this place are as follow. “ I was sorry to observe the ef¬ fect of the elegant view of the welsh mountains, from the house totally destroy¬ ed by the small square building in front, called a Fort. I cannot conceive how gentlemen should suffer themselves to be so much misled, as to have their agents, without an atom of taste, construct these, singularly called, ornamental buildings. The present is a white church-like castle, an apparent cxcressence, evidently use¬ less and glaringly unnatural. A friend of mine remarked, to some observations that I had made on this subject, that, in a tour through S. Wales, he had almost invaria¬ bly observed, that the only rage for spoil¬ ing the scenes by these strange monstros¬ ities, was where the surrounding country was more than usually beautiful. Nearold castles or monastic remains, he had gen¬ erally been provoked vyith a deformed cas¬ tellated pleasure-house, or a lately erect¬ ed ruin, and invariably in the very place from whence of all others it should have been kept away.” Tour, i. 337. Upon this eminence once was placed both a a picturesque and useful building, i. e. a windmill; but it was removed to make way for improvements, and none was e- rected to supply it’s place. That remov¬ al has continued a subject of general re¬ gret in the whole neighbourhood, espe¬ cially by the lower classes of mankind, who by this event are subjected to ad¬ ditional expense, trouble, and distress, from the difficulty of having to take then- corn across the Menai to be ground at Ab- er and other places. Southward of Beaumaris is a lesser Snowdon, formed of a rock called Craig y pare, close to mr. Robert Allen’s farm¬ house, whence is a circular view, both various, extensive, and beautiful. Lord Bulkeley has liberally caused a fine coach-road to be made at his own expense upon the edge of the sea, from Beaumaris to the Anglesea side of Ban¬ gor ferry, an extent upwards of 4 m. About 1 m. from Beaumaris, near the seat of sir Robert Williams, bart.. and not far from the shore, stands the small remains of the house of Franciscan Friars, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorweth, prince of North Wales, sometime before 1240 called Llanfaes, or the Friars. So tri¬ fling a portion of which remains as to form only part of the walls of a barn, [see page 61.] Two m. north of Friars is the priory of Pcnmon or Glenarch, consist¬ ing of little more than the ruinous refec¬ tory and part of the church, Near this place is a well, surrounded by a wall and stone seats. Not 1 m. from the shore is Ynys Sciriol, Scifiol’s Island, now called Priestholme, There are upon it the remains of a square tower, supposed to have been an appurtenance to the monastery. This island from the beginning of April to the beginning of August, is inhabited by im¬ mense numbers of different kinds of sea fowl, but particularly that rare species, called Puffin Auk, the Alea arctica of Lin¬ naeus, which arc birds of passage that re¬ sort hither to propagate. On the west of Priestholme are three islands, called Ynys Llygod, the Mice Islands. [see further p. 69.] Proceeding from Beaumaris towards Bangor, the mouth and harbour of Con¬ way first appear ; then the rock of Pen- maen-bach, forming an abrupt shore, which continues as far as the soaring cliffs of Penmaen-mawr, overhanging the sea. Approaching Bangor, the mountains re¬ cede, sloQping gently to the water, their lower parts peopled by almost a continu¬ ed line of villages. From Beaumaris, mr. Skrine proceed¬ ed to Gwyndy, or half way house between Bangor and Holyhead, an inn, near the centre of the island, which he made a principal station while he surveyed tins ill BEAUMARIS. BEDDGELART. 112 district. “ The face of the country,” says he, “ is uniformly uninteresting, be¬ ing hilly without grandeur, and rocky without beauty; it has that rugged and ill-cultivated aspect, arising from poverty of soil and scarcity of inhabitants ; for villages are rarely distinguished, and the few houses, which appear, mark the wretchedness of their tenants.” His first excursion was to Holyhead; and his next to Amlwch and the copper mines at Parys Mountain. He afterwards repassed the Menai straits, at Bangor ferry, and en¬ tered upon an excellent road, command¬ ing the most varied and majestic land¬ scapes, which became more expanded as he approached Caernarvon. To Gwyndy, on the way to Holyhead, proceed past Llansadwen to Plas Gzcyn, 5$ m. (This is the residence of Paul Pan¬ ton esq.; near which is Pencraig, rev.— Hughes ; on the 1. Hirdrefraig, mrs. Lloyd and Tregarnedd, mrs. Grindley. If m- from Plas gwyn is Tyfry, mrs. Meyrick.) Llangefni, 4fm. See a description of the remainder of the rout to Gwyndy at p. 91. Mr. Warner pursued a walk hence, of 5m. to Plas Gwyn, the seat of Mr Panton, through a country rather uninteresting from it’s uniform flatness and want of trees. The house is a well-built brick mansion, embosomed in woods, but the land around undulates agreeably, and was in the year 1798, laying out into a range of diversified pleasure-grounds. [See p. 67.J From Beaumaris, mr. Gilpin wished to sail up the channel of the Menai as far as Caernarvon bay, for the island of Angle- sea was so naked a scene that he was not inclined to traverse it. He however, in¬ tended to have explored it’s beautiful wooded shores. But when he talked on the subject of navigation with the expe¬ rienced in winds and tides, he was in¬ formed that unless both were favourable, the voyage would be dangerous. He de¬ termined therefore, to explore the re¬ gions of Snowdon first, and then visit Caernarvon. With this view, he crossed the Lavan sands, forded the river Ogwen, 2 nd entered the hanging woods of Pen- rhyn. He then approached the wilds of the forest of Snowdon, travelling through many a yielding bog, and over many a dreary mountain. Reaching 'Snowdon, it seemed a collection of moun¬ tains, which kept him in continual sus~ pense, for after climbing the steep side of one precipice, he reached the summit of one higher. He climbed another, and thought it the summit of Snowdon. He was mistaking. Across the sands to Aber, 4 miles. To Llanelian, 16 miles, Pennant. Back to Caernarvon, 30 miles, BiDgley. To Amlwch, 23 miles, Warner. Back to Bangor Ferry-house, [see Bangor] thence to Conway, over Peumaen mawr, 14 m. Wynd- ham. To Caernarvon, 17 miles, Skrine. — Snowdon, 13 miles, Gilpin. From Caernarvon, 12 miles, Bingley. - Snowdon, Pennant; Aikin. - Pont Aherglaslyn, 2 miles, Wyndbam; Ev¬ ans; Warner. - Maentwrog, 9§ miles. BEDDGELART, is a village of Caernar¬ vonshire, situated in a beautiful tract of meadows, at the junction of 3 vales, near the conflux of the Glas Lyn, or Gwynant, or Nant hwynant, and the Colwyn, which flows through Nant Colvvyn, a vale which lead to Caernarvon. It’s situation was the fittest in the world, says mr. Pennant, to inspire religious meditation, amid lof¬ ty mountains, woods, and murmuring streams. The Church is small, yet the loftiest in Snowdonia. The east window consists of three narrow slips. The roof is neat; and there yet remains some very pretty fret-work. A side chapel is sup¬ ported by two neat pillars, and gothic arcli- es. This church has been conventual, belonging to a priory of Augustines, dedi¬ cated to the Virgin. They were probab¬ ly of the class called Gilbertines, consist¬ ing of both men and women, living under the same roof, but divided by a wall, as a piece of ground near the church is called Dol y Llein (the meadow of the nun). No remnant of the priory however exists. The ground on the s. side of the church seems to have been the spot whereon the buildings stood which the monks former¬ ly inhabited. There are 2 or 3 arched doors on that side the church, through which probably the religious entered. The ancient mansion-house near the church might be the residence of the pri¬ or. In this house is shewn an old pewter mug, that will hold upwards of two quarts; and any person able to grasp it with one hand, while full of ale, and to drink it off at one drs.ught, is entiled to BEDDGELART. 414 the liquor gratis, and the tenant is to charge it to the lord of the manor as part of payment of his rent. n-e. from the vil¬ lage runs A ant Gwynedd. Tradition says, that Llewelyn the great, came to re¬ side at Beddgelart during the hunting sea¬ son, with his wife and children, and one day, the family being absent, a wolf had en¬ tered the house. On returning, his grey¬ hound, called Ciliart, met him, wagging his tail, but covered with blood. The prince being alarmed, ran into the nurs¬ ery, and found the cradle in which the child had lain, overturned, and the ground covered with blood. Imagining the greyhound had killed the child, he imme¬ diately drew his sword and slew him, but on turning up the cradle, he found un¬ der it the child alive, and the woll dead. This so affected the prince, that he erect¬ ed a tomb over his faithful dog’s grave, where, afterwards, the parish church was built, and called from this accident, Bedd- Cilihart, or the grave of Cilihart. \ m. on the road to Capel Curig oppo¬ site a mill, is an interesting view, consist¬ ing of a solemn dell, rugged with rock and rude excrescences. The eye in sur¬ veying this opening, is relieved now and then, by spots of verdure, patches of heath, thinly scattered sheep, and the beautiful curvature of the mountain. In the welsh annals this region is styled the forest of Snowdon. It is a subject of great regret to most tourists that many of the rocks which surround Beddgelart, tho’ once covered with oaks are now naked. One proprietor, however, is rais¬ ing new plantations upon his estate. Snowdonia, tho’ once a forest, contains now scarcely a tree. Salmon is very plentiful here, selling sometimes as low as | d. a pound, the average price is about 4(/. The best land lets at 20s. an acre; but the average of the neighbourhood is from 2s 6 d. to 5s. with unlimited right of common upon the mountains. In this lit¬ tle plain is an almost inexhaustible tur¬ bary. There is a new-erected comfortable inn at this place, called Beddgelart Hotel. It is marked by the emblem of the Goat, with the following appropriate motto. “Patria mea Petra.” My country is a rock. The guide to the mountains is the harper of the house; or Richard Edwards, a resi¬ dent in the village. William Lloyd, the schoolmaster of this place, was long not¬ ed as an intelligent “ conductor to Snow¬ don, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanber- is pass, the lakes, waterfalls, &c.; he was also a collector of crystals, fossils, and natural curiosities found in these re¬ gions. Dcalerin superfinewoollenhose, socks, gloves, &c.,” but in the year 1804, he finally emerged from all sublunary avo¬ cations, to the regions beyond the grave. His widow had lately a considerable quan¬ tity of fossils in her possession for sale. Opposite to the village of Beddgelart is Moel Hebog (the hill of flight) which lord Lyttelton ascended [see Festiniog]. In a bog near that mountain was found in 1784, a most curious brass shield, which was de¬ posited with mr. Williams, of Llanidan, it’s diameter was 2 f. 2 in., the weight 41b; in the centre was a plain umbo projecting above 2 inches; the surface was marked with 27 smooth concentric elevated cir¬ cles, and between each a depressed space of the same breadth with the elevated parts, marked by a single row of smooth studs. The whole shield w'as flat and very flexible. This was probably Roman, for the welsh despised every species of defen¬ sive armour. “While I was at Beddgelart,” says Bingley, “ I found myself one evening almost devoid of employment, and the moon shone so beautifully bright, that I was tempted to ramble alone as far as Pont Abergloslijn. There never was a more charming evening. The scene was not clad in it’s late grand colours, but now more delicately shaded and arrayed in soft¬ er charms. The darkening shadow's of the rocks cast a gloom around, and the faint rays in some places faintly reflected, gave to the straining eye, a very imperfect glimpse of the surfaces it looked upon, while in others, the moon shot her silver light through the hollows, and brightly il¬ lumined the opposite rocks. All was so¬ litude, serene and mild. The silence of the evening was only interrupted by the murmuring of the brook, which lulled to melancholy, and now and then by the shrill scream of the night ovvl, flitting by me. I hung over the battlements of the bridge, listening to the hoarse fall of the water down the wear, and watching, as the moon became more elevated, the de- ‘ creasing shadows of the mountains. I at length, returned, after a most delightful 115 BEDDGELART. ramble of nearly two hours.” Plants. Ruppia maritima, in ditches between Traeth mawr and Pont Aber- glaslyn. Fumaria claviculata, under the walls, near a farm house in Gwynant, at the entrance of Cwm llan. Lathyrus pa- lustris, moist pastures. In ascending the summit of Snowdon from this place, a neighbouring vale, call, ed Nani Gwynedd, (the vale of the stream,) is passed, which is by far the most beauti¬ ful of the vales among these mountains- It is about 6 m. long, and affords a great variety of wood, lakes, and mead ws. The vale of Llanberis is the only one which may be said to rival it; but their characters are so different, that they can¬ not with propriety be compared. On the left, about li§ m. up the valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called Ddinas Emrys, the fort of Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a ma¬ gician who was sent for to this place from Caer Merddin [Caermarthen], by Vorti- gern, who was king of Britain from 449 to 466. Upon it’s summit is a level piece of ground, and the remains of a square fort, and upon the w. side, facing Beddgel- art, there are traces of a long wall. It stands detatched from other rocks, and at a distance appears in the form of a man’s hat. Adjoining to this Ddinas is a stony tract called Celli ’r Dewinion, (the cells or groves of the magicians.) In the next field, a number of large stones, called Beddau ’r Dewinion, (the tombs of the magicians). It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with the treacherous Sax¬ ons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom. It is probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence till he removed to his final retreat in Kant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, not far from Nefyn, in the promontory of Llyn. Speed says, that Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hen- gist, the Saxon prince, and had by her one son. A little further, in a charming situation, is a pool called Uyn y Ddinas, (the pool of the fort.) Near the middle of this valley, close to the south side of Llyn Gwynedd, are the ruins of a small chapel, within a small wall¬ ed yard, called Capel Nantgwynedd. There is a tradition, that Madog, the son of prince Owen Gwynedd, resided in this vale for some time before he left his country for America. The entrance into this valley from Beddgelart, is but the breadth of a narrow rugged road, close by the river’s side, in which there is noth¬ ing inviting, but passing on, he advances upon enchanted ground, where he finds extensive meadows, expanding at every turn of rock, smooth as a bowling-green beautiful lakes and meandering rivers, a- bounding in fish; mountains towering one above the other in succession, while to the left, Snowdon o’ertops them all, seeming like another Atlas, to support the firmament. Two miles be¬ yond is Cwm Llan, a romantic hollow, running into the mountains on the 1. to¬ wards Snowdon. Passing on this tract a little way, another pool appears, somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynant. Near the end of this vale, are 2 enormous masses of rock ; one of them has the ap¬ pearance of the gabel end of a house. The vale here changes it’s name to Cwm Dyli, in which is a cataract called Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli. The rivulet which runs from the Alpine pool, Llyn Llwydaw, in the mountains above, here breaks into foam and spray down the rugged rocks, whence it runs into Llyn Gwynant. From Cwm Dyli, mr. Pennant ascended to Cwm Cwm Dyli, a flat tract of hay ground- watered by a river. This mountain-hol¬ low he found filled with hay-makers, and the farmer and his family being resident here in his Havodty, or summer dwelling, for the summer season. After dining with them on curds and whey, he kept a- long the river side, and found opposite to him another front, rugged as the formeri near the cataract, and this also filled with a fi ne fall or cascade; this he surmounted with equal difficulty, and found on arriv¬ ing at the top, a bottom or flat, 1 m. in length, filled with Llyn Llydaw, a fine lake winding beneath the rocks, and vast¬ ly indented by rocky projections here and there jutting into it. In it was one little island, the haunt of black backed gulls which breed here, and alarmed by such unexpected visitors, broke the silence of this sequestered place by their deep screams. These are by the welsh, jocu¬ larly called, Gwyddau Rhys Cwm Dyli, Reesof Cwmdyli’s geese. He continued his walk along a narrow path above the lake, as far as the extremity; then de- 117 BEDDGELART. 11R scending, reached the opposite side, in or- these mountaineers is very plain, consist- der to encounter a third ascent, as ardu¬ ous as the preceding. This brought him into the horrible crater immediately be¬ neath the great precipice of Wyddfa, in which is lodged Ffynnon las ; it’s situa¬ tion is the most dreadful, surrounded by more than 3 parts of a circle, with the most horrible precipices of the Wyddfa, (or the highest peak of Snowdon,) Crib y Distill, Crib Goch, with the vast mural steeps of Lliwedd, continued over the other lake and Cwm Dyli. In the Lli¬ wedd was the strange break called Bvvlch y Saethau, or the Pass of the Arrows, pro¬ bably a station for the hunters to watch the wandering of the deer. The margin of Ffynnon las here appeared to be shal¬ low and gravelly, the waters had a green¬ ish cast, but what is very singular, the rocks reflected into them seemed varied with stripes of the richest colours, like the most beautiful lute-strings, and changed al¬ most to infinity. Here we observed the wheat-ear, a small and seemingly tender bird, and yet is almost the only small one, or indeed the only one, except the rock-ou¬ zel, or Mwyalchun y graig, that frequents these heights; the reason is evidently the ■want of food. Some of these high rocks, particularly Crib Goch, to the n-e. of Snow¬ don, is covered in many places, and beau¬ tifully varied with the deep green of the Juniperus communis, var. 2. This moun¬ tainous tract near Snowdon, scarcely yields any corn; their produce is cattle and sheep, which during summer keep very high in the mountains, followed by their owners, with their families, who reside during that season in Havod-dai, or sum¬ mer dwelling, or dairy houses, as the far¬ mers in the Swiss Alps do in their Sennes. These houses consist of a long low room, with a hole at one end to let out the smoke, from the fire which is made be¬ neath. Their furniture is very simple, stones are the substitutes for stools, and the beds are of hay, ranged along the sides: they manufacture their own cloaths and dye them with Cenn Du y Cerrlg, or Lichen omphalodes; and another Cenn, Lichen Parietinus, collected from the rocks. During summer, the men pass their time in harvest work, or tending their hejds; the women in milking, or making butter and cheese of the milk for their own consumption. The diet of ing of butter, cheese and oat bread, or Ba¬ ra Ceirch ; their drink is whey, not but that they have their reserve of a few bot¬ tles of very strong beer, by way of cordi¬ al, in sickness. They are people of good understanding, wary, and circumspect; usually tall, thin, and of strong constitu¬ tions, from their way of living. Towards winter, they descend to their Hendref, or old dwelling, where they lead during that season a vacant life, in carding, spin¬ ning, knitting, &c. On THE DtRECT HOAD TO CAERNARVON, a pleasing vale is entered, expanding as you advance, and is watered by the river Colwyn, which flows from a lake called Llyn Cadair yr aur frychin. Cadair means a seat or chair and the Aur Frychin is sup¬ posed to have been a wild beast, perhaps a buffalo, and the tradition is, that it was hunted up the hollow from Llanllyfni, and killed at his haunt near this pool. Upon the right, nearly opposite this lake, is the usual ascent from Beddgelart to the summit of Snowdon ; the distance is 4 m. A road from the lake Cwellyn has lately- been made to bring down the copper ore on sledges. These sledges, drawn by 2 horses, will carry 6 cwt. The sons of Snowdon, Moel Ei/ir, and Castcll Cedwm, arise on the r., while the waters of the beautiful Lake of Cwellyn, 3 m. in length, are expanded on the 1. The road lies close to it’s margin on the eastern side. “This lake,” saysmr. Evans, “isnoted for a species of charr, (Salmo alpinus, Lin.) called Torgoch, or Red-belly, found formerly in Llyn Peris, and in some of the lakes of Switzerland; and whoever has travelled through the Grisons, would from the great similarity of the scenery, conceive that he had been wafted by ma¬ gic to that alpine country. The road just described is not unlike that from Greno¬ ble to Susan.” At the upper end of this beautiful lake, stood the house of Cae uwch y Llyn,'or the field above the lake, which by contraction forms Cwellyn. This house was once the residence of the Quellyns, a family now extinct, who took their name from the place. At the s. end of the pool, that part of Mynyddj mavvr, called Castell Cidwm (the wolf’s castle) forms a bold and very striking fea¬ ture, seeming to overhang it’s base. Up¬ on the banks of the great lake, is a little 119 public house kept by John Morton, guide to Snowdon. This guide has the com¬ mand of 3 small ponies, which he consci¬ entiously charges 5s. each. His customa¬ ry compliment is half a guinea more, be¬ sides the expense of a person to hold the ponies (when the steepness renders it im¬ possible to ride any farther, which is within f m. of the top of the mountain). Between Llyn y Gader, and Llyn Cwel- lyn, the traveller may turn to the 1. out of the great road to visit Llyn y Dywarchen , or the Lake of the Sod, near a farm called Drws y Cocci, celebrated by the romantic Giralaus Cambriensis, for it’s Insula erra- tica, or wandering island, of an irregular shape, and about 9 yards long. It was a piece of the turbery, undermined by the water torn off, yet kept together by the entangling roots which form that species of soil. It is frequently set in motion by the wind, and again joins it’s native banks. Giraldus says, cattle have frequently been surprised upon it, and by a contrary gale, carried a short voyage from the shore.” There are 2 little islands of this descrip¬ tion in Llyn Mignan, in Merionethshire, The charr is found only in one spot, and only for a few days, annually, about the end of December, but trout is generally a- bundant. From Llyniau Nanl/c, between Llyn y dywarchen, and Llanllyfni, mr. Wilson took his beautiful view of Snow¬ don. In the summer of the year 1284, Ed¬ ward 1 resided here for some days. The place is called Bala Dcn-lyn. Proceeding to Caernarvon along the banks of Llyn y Cwellyn is a fine cascade formed by the Fai or Gwyrfai issa, running from the lake into the valley, which expands to fine meadows. In this vale, distant from Beddgelart 5| m. is the picturesque spot of Nant mill, on the 1. On the r. is Plus JPfant, one for the scats of sir Robert Wil¬ liams, bart. seated at the foot of Moel Ei- lir, or Ael y la, near the outlet of Llyn Cwellyn, and fronted by a beetling and shaggy rock of a peculiar character. The accompaniments arc the mill and cascade before mentioned, and though the latter has received some touches from art, yet they appear perfectly natural. m. further is the small village of Bellias Gar¬ mon. The country over which the road now lies is a succession of eminences and dips, undulating in a happy style; the soil rocky, but not unproductive. On the 120 1. rises a very picturesque mountain at some distance, near the sea-coast; but in front the country is champaign and open for many miles. The high grounds in Anglesea begin to appear, and from one of the eminences on the road, the whole island lies like a map, while the el¬ egant towers of Caernarvon castle, some¬ times emerges and sometimes is obscured from the sight. Within 2 m. of Caernar¬ von, on the r. is Glangwnna, Tho. Lloyd, esq. About 1 m. distant from Caernar¬ von, the Rhythell is crossed, here assum¬ ing the name of Seiont, over a stone bridge, built by Harry Parry. At a short distance stands the church of Llan Beblic. The low road to Tan y bwlch, lies partly over the sands of Traeth mawr, and cannot be passed but at low water. The mountain road from Pont Aberglaslyn, for nearly 7 m., is the rudest imaginable. A new road is forming from near the bridge, to join that from Caernarvon to Dolgelly, not far from Tan-y-bwlch. From one very elevated situation on this road is a most delightful view of this mountainous country. Harlech and Criccieth castles may both be seen, and the entire promon¬ tory of Llyn. The road to Dolwyddelan Castle lies under the skirts of Snowdon, along a valley to the n-e. attending the course of the same river which is crossed at Pont Aberglaslyn. A little way from Bedd¬ gelart is a rude alpine bridge thrown a- cross the torrent to a water-mill on the other side, which, with the neat chapel, about § mile lower down the stream, forms a very pleasing view. Proceeding 2 *n. on the road, an immense cataract appeal's on the left, which bursts out of the cloudy side of a steep mountain; pre¬ cipitated from rock to rock, and lastly, with one bound, falling into a deep gulf. A little further, the road passes by the side of Llyn-y-dinas, a considerable lake, enclosed by huge mountains. At the dis¬ tance of 2 m., another lake of somewhat larger dimensions than the former occurs, the shores of which are well wooded. The road here crosses the valley, and from the beginning of it’s ascent for above 1 m. is a continued series of rude broken steps, very narrow and winding, ascending the steep face of a craggy mountain which overlooks the lake, without the slightest barrier, even in places where the descent BEDDGELART. 121 BEDDGELART. is exceedingly abrupt; yet these moun¬ tainous stairs are ascended and descended by welsh horses. A tract of boggy moun¬ tains, bare and desolate, are next to be passed ; the majestic forms of the Snow¬ don mountains are all which can render this dreary part of the country interesting. At about 6 m. from the last lake; the trav¬ eller will undoubtedly descry, with live¬ ly emotions, the ruins of Dolwyddelati castle. The whole walk from Beddgelart to Harlech is a succession of various and pleasing scenery, by which the attention is kept awake during every part of the journey.—Bingley. To the summit of Snowdon, 6 m. back to Bedd- geiart; thence to Pont Aberglaslyn, miles, Bingley. —Tan y bwlch Inn, Similes, Bingley. — Snowdon, and back, thence to Dolwyddelan castle, Aikin. — Snowdon, Warner. — Caernarvon, 12 miles, Wyndham, Evans. — Llanberis, over Snowdon, 12 miles. — Pont Aberglaslyn, l| miles, Pennant, Skrine. — Penmorfa,7 miles. — Capel Curig, 12 miles. — Criccietb, 10 miles. From Dudley, 10 miles, Lipscomb. BIRMINGHAM isalargemarket-town in the hundred of Hemlingl'ord, Warwick¬ shire. In the 17th century the name was written Bromicham, probably from the name of the lord of the manor, or from brom or broom, a shrub; from wych, a dwelling or descent; and ham a home. It’s centre was the old cross. The parish contains 2864 acres. The approach to the town is by ascent, except from Hales- Ovven. The foundation is a solid mass of reddish sand, which causes even the cel¬ lars to be habitable. The soil is light, sandy and weak. A small river called the Rea, bounds the e. side of the parisli; and in the lower parts of the town are 2 excellent springs of soft water. One of them is at the top of Digbeth, the other is Lady Well. At the latter place are 7 of the most complete baths in the island ; they were formed at the expense of 2000f. These baths are constantly ready for hot or cold bathing, for immersion or amuse¬ ment, with conveniencies for sweating. That appropriated for swimming is 18 yds. by 36. It is situated in the centre of the garden, in which are 24 private undress¬ ing houses, the whole surrounded by a wall 10 feet high. About 1 m. from the town BIRMINGHAM. 122 on the road to Coleshill, in the manor of Duddleton is a chalybeate spring, the water of which has one material fault, it costs nothing! The afflicted might here find a prescription without expense, as efficacious as if signed by the whole college of physicians. Poverty is often seen in the human kind, and in the ani¬ mals which he enslaves ; the wretched pedlar and his ass seem equally unfortun¬ ate; too often is the dejection of poverty seen even in the pulpit, in the furniture of a house, and in whatever shape it ap¬ pears it is always despised. The low ap¬ pearance and low credit of this well are e- qual. Unassuming merit is often depres¬ sed. The natural air of Birmingham, cannot perhaps be excelled, but the con. gregated body of 60,000 people,the smoke of furnaces, and the effluvia arising from the fusion of brass, copper and tin, mate¬ rially affect it. To see a man with green hair or a yellow wig, is not uncommon ; and, if he reads, the greenness of his oc¬ cupation rests on every page, never to be expunged. Instances of longevity are not infrequent here. Mr. W. Hutton pub¬ lished his last edition of the History of Birmingham in 1795, he then recollected in the circle of his personal acquaintance 13 persons aged 80 to 90 years, 5 from 90 to 100, and he had known George Bridg- ens, 103, Mr. More, 104, and another man, who swore with all the fervency o. a sailor at 106, but died at 107. Res- specting the ancient state of Birmingham little is known. The monks who lived in the priory for 15 or 20 generations pos¬ sessed all the little learning that then exist, ed in this country, and were in possession'of many historical facts, now totally lost, but were a race of indolent religious drones, who did nothing. Upon the borders of the parish, stands Aston furnace, used for reducing ironstone into pigs, apparently of great antiquity. Of the calx or cinder there is an enormous mountain. On Wednesburyold field, there are vestiges of many hundreds of coal-pits, which have been long disused. A specimen of towns, such as they were in the times of the Britons may still be seen on the turn¬ pike-road between Hales-owen and Stour¬ bridge, called Lie Waste, or Mud-City- The houses stand in every direction, each composed of one large and ill-formed brick scoped into a tenement, burnt by the sun ; 123 BIRMINGHAM. 124 sometimes destroyed by the frost; the males naked, the females accomplished breeders. Only one person in the village presumes to support a uniform belly, and he is a landlord. You may as well look for the moon in a coal-pit as for stays or white linen in the city of Mud. The smoke of Birmingham has been propitious to the growth of gentlemen. Like buttons they have here been here stamped, finished, and moved off. They have originated in a state the most uncouth, and have passed various transitions. Some of them have re¬ ceived the last polish, while others ruined by a flaw, have been deemed wasters. A man of opulence has directed his gilt char¬ iot out of Birmingham, who approached this place, an helpless orphan in rags ; and the chief magistrate of 50,000 people has fallen from his phteton, and humbly asked bread at a parish vestry. Many fine estates have been struck out of the anvil, valuable possessions raised by the tongs, and superb houses erected in a twofold sense by the trowel. The families of Holt, Clodshale, Colmore, Philips, Foxall, Smallbroke, Weaman, Jennens, Whalley, &c., have acquired vast property, and quitted the meridian of Birmingham. A. mong those of great antiquity, now reduc¬ ed to the anvil, the lathe, or to be reliev¬ ed at the parish board, may be mentioned the Middlemores, the Bracebridges, the Montfords, the Elwalls, and the Ardens. These have been thrown from exalted em¬ inences, and broken to pieces by the fall. Through the several families of the Col- mores, the Clarkes, the Mays, the Small¬ woods, the Bedfords, flow the blood-roy¬ al of England. It appears that in 1251, William de Birmingham, lord of the manor, procured an additional charter from Henry 3, reviving some decayed pri¬ vileges, and granting others. In this century Birmingham was crowded with timber, the streets dirty and narrow; the houses were mean and low, composed of wood and plaster; the public building was the church, there being no other. In the 14th century, the buildings multipli¬ ed, but not improved, the public building increased to four; the Priory of stone, the Guild of timber, now the free-school; and Deritend Chapel, resembling a barn. Our ancestors are reproached with viru¬ lence by lord Clarendon, for disloyalty to Charles 1. The day after the king left Birmingham, on his march to Shrewsbu¬ ry in 1642, they seized his carriages, con¬ taining the royalplate and furniture, which they conveyed for security, to Warwick castle. They apprehended all messen¬ gers and suspected persons; frequently at¬ tacked and reduced small parties of the royalists, whom they sent prisoners to Coventry. Hence the proverb, “send him to Coventry.” In 1643 the king or¬ dered prince Rupert with 2000 men, to open a communication between Oxford and York. At Birmingham he met with resistance, but the people were finally van¬ quished, and the prince in a fit of revenge set fire to the town. He however allowed the inhabitants to extinguish the flames, on condition of paying a heavy fine. In 1665, Birmingham, as well as London, was visited by the plague. Ikeneld. street, one of the 4 great roman roads, pas¬ ses within a mile of Birmingham. It rises near Southampton,proceeds almost n., and crosses the Birmingham road to Broms- grove, enters Birmingham parish by the Observatory in Lady Wood Lane, crosses the Dudley road at the Sand-pits,alongWar- stone-lane, and Hockley-brook, where it quits the parish, and ends upon the banks of the Tine, near Tinmouth, in Northum¬ berland. In Sutton Park, and Coldfield, a- bout 4 m. from Birmingham, part of this road is to be seen as perfect and as com¬ plete as on the first day the Romans made it. Near the place where the small rivu¬ let discharges itself into the moat, anoth¬ er ofthesame size is carried over it, which proceeds from the town, while the other advances towards it, producing a curiosity seldom met with; one stream running s. and the other n., separated one from the other by a foot-path, 3 feet wide, to the length of | a mile. In the place called the Square, formerly stood a Priory. The remains are yet visible in some of the cellars. It was erected about the year 2280. Large quantities of human bones have been dug up in the Minories, which shew that it was the burial-place of the Priory. The outbuildings and pleasure- grounds of this establishment occupied the whole n-e. side of Bull-street. About the year 1700, the number of streets in Birmingham amounted to nearly 30, there are now upwards of 300. The re¬ turn in 1801, under the population act of houses, &c. within the parish, was, hous? 125 BIRMINGHAM. 125 es inhabited, 12,044; houses void, 1662; Virgil. He afterwards printed Milton, families, 12,683; males, 28,568 ; females, 32,254; total of inhabitants, 60,822. In¬ habitants of the hamlets, 8562. The rage for building has greatly subsided. Sir Thomas Gooch possesses a considera¬ ble part of the ground upon which the town is built. It would be difficult to en- numerate the variety of trades practised in Birmingham. The inhabitants began with the productions of the anvil, and will probably end with them. Many of the improvements in button-making, japan¬ ning, gilding, and enamelling, must be attributed to the genius of John Taylor, esq. He died in 1775, at the age of 64, after having acquired a fortune of 200,000/. The buttons, buckles, swords, and guns, made at Birmingham, have been in great¬ er repute than those of any other place. Tanning was once a leading branch of business in this town, but is now reduc¬ ed to one solitary trader of this descrip¬ tion. Considerable works are carried on in steel and brass. The business of plat¬ ed ware, jewelry, umberellas, &c., are of modem date. The art of printing met in this place uncommon improvements from the genius of John Baskerville, the intimate friend of Dodsley and Shenstone, a man who has been rivalled by few, and exceeded only in the same walk by Bul- mer, and Bensley of London, Constable of Edinburgh, and Bodoni, of Parma in Italy. In the time in which he lived, he was the first printer in the world. He was born at Wolverley, in the county of Worcester, heir to a paternal estate va¬ lue 90/. He was born in 1706, and train¬ ed to a stone-cutter. In 1726, he became a writing-master in Birmingham. Paint¬ ing suited his genius, and he engaged in the lucrative branch of japanning, at 22, in Moor-street. In 1745, he took a build¬ ing lease of eight acres, which he called Easy-Hill. He built a house and other buildings, and carried on the business of a japanner. Each pannel of his carriage drawn by cream-coloured horses, was a distinct picture, and might be considered a pattern-card of his trade. In 1750, his love of letters caused him to turn his at¬ tention to the art of ink-making, letter- founding, and printing, in which he spent some thousands of pounds before the shallow stream of profit began to flow. In 1756, he began with a 4to edition of the Roman Classics, the Bible, and vari¬ ous English productions. ■ In private life he was a humourist; his habits were in. dolent, but his invention active. What he well designed, he caused others to execute; and when merit was discov¬ ered he rewarded it. He was polite to the stranger, fond of shew; a figure of the smaller size, which he adorned with gold-lace. His aversion to Christianity would not suffer him to lie among it’s pro¬ fessors ; he therefore, previous to his death, erected a mausoleum in his own grounds where he was interred. The spot is now concealed by the cultivation of a garden. He died in 1775, aged 69. A copy of his will and epitaph appear in the Gentleman’sMagazinefor 1780, page 677. No purchaser in the British nation could be found for his elegant types; to it’s last¬ ing disgrace, they laid a dead letter, till purchased by a literary society at Paris, in 1779, for 3700/. The whole of Bas- kerville’s beautiful apparatus was carried to Kehl, by the celebrated Beaumarchais, to print an edition of Voltaire, in which he expended 100,000/. It has been long observed that genius is no where so little rewarded as in Britain, else would not Dryden, Goldsmith, and Chatterton have wanted bread. Easy-Hill, after Basker- ville’s time, became the country-house of Mr. Ryland, who married miss Basker¬ ville, but was unfortunately destroyed bya misguided and infuriate mob,in 1791. A place once in the country is now sur¬ rounded by houses; in Broad-street,there¬ fore stand the ruins of the mansion built by John Baskerville, a monument of the depravity and folly of those who reduced it to it’s present state. In Birming¬ ham are 5 active magistrates, 4 of whom sit at the publicoffice in Moor-street,eve¬ ry Monday and Thursday to administer justice. The officers annually chosen to govern the town, are a high-bailiff, who inspects the practices of the buyer and seller, as to weights, measures, &c.; a low bailiff, who chooses theotherofficers, viz., 2 constables, 1 hcadborough, 2 high tasters, who examine the malt liquor; 2 low tasters, or meat conncrs ; 2 affeir- ers, who ratify the chief rent and am- mercements, and 2 leather sealers. In 1752, the inhabitants procured an act for the recovery of debts under 40$. In 127 BIRMINGHAM. J2S 1790, a Humane Society was established with charteral laws, gives free access to for the recovery of suspended animation, to the stranger, it is here, that he may en- Aboutthe same lime, a Commercial Com- joy an unfettered freedom, where the mittee was formed to watch over the common interests of the place. In 1791, a market was opened, to supply the town with hay, &c. The benefit of letters may be ascertained by comparison. Anciently, a man who understood the al¬ phabet was reputed a conjurer, he may now understand far more, yet be a block¬ head. In the 15th century no magazines of mental subsistence were preserved in this country. The mind of man unem¬ ployed, sunk into lethargy. He knew not what appertained to himself or others, the past and the future were hidden, and the utmost stretch of his acquirements in¬ cluded a small portion only of the history of his own time, aided by a narrow tradi¬ tion. The effects of such a state were darkness, slavery, ignorance, prejudice, poverty of substance and of thought, su¬ perstition, and bigotry. He had no means of drawing intelligence from others, for their minds were baaren as his own ; their manners savage, their judgments perverted and erroneous. But in the present time, man is heir to immense trea¬ sures. The past and the present genera¬ tions have stored up more intelligence than moderate capacity can grasp- The collections of ages arc exposed to view, and he beholds the past as if it were pres¬ ent. He commands the treasures of the living and the dead, and so far from doz¬ ing away the day, he can scarcely spare the night for the purpose of sleep. The result is a greater maturity of judgment, jirster ideas, taste more refined, the intro¬ duction of wealth, refinement, and free¬ dom. The Public Library of Birming. ham originated in 1779. It’s commence- mentand progress was feeble, till in 1782, it received from the benevolent hand of doctor Priestley, such method and stabi¬ lity as produced success. It now consists ofupwards of 14,000 volumes; the num¬ ber of subscribers is about 500. The structure, which is elegant and appropri¬ ate, is situated in Union-street. It cost 1000/. A New Library was established in 1796, and a building erected in Can¬ non-street. There is also a Medical Li¬ brary, and another for Law, besides nu¬ merous private Book-Societies. The town of Birmingham, unfettered principles of toleration are understood. One should not be surprised, therefore, that there are 14 places of religious wor¬ ship. 6 are of the establishment, besides a quaker, methodist, roman-catholic, and jewish chapels. St. Martin's, or the Old Church, was raised sometime previous to the year 1300. It was originally built of stone, but in 1690 was cased with brick, except the spire. The spire has been sev¬ eral times injured by the lightning, and as often repaired. In the church are se¬ veral monuments, and arms of ancient fam¬ ilies: Under the s. window are 2 monu¬ ments abreast, of white marble, much in¬ jured. The left figure is supposed to be William de Birmingham, who was made prisoner by the French at the seige of Bellegarde, 1297. The reed-work of the organ is by Snetzler. The steeple con¬ tains 12 musical bells with a chime. The prefent rector is the rev. Charles Curtis, the income upwards of 1000/. The lec¬ turer is dr. Croft, the curate, the rev John Cooke, head master of the free grammar school. St. Phillips, or the New Church, is a curious piece of architecture. The steeple is from the model of St. Paul’s, London. It stands upon the high¬ est ground in Birmingham. It was fin¬ ished in 1719, at the expense of 5,0121. tho’ at present an estimate would amount to 20,0001. The urns upon the parapet were not placed till 1756. The cemetry is one of the finest and most beautiful, occupying 4 acres, and laid out with walks, shaded by lime-trees. The stee¬ ple contains 10 bells. In the vestry was a theological library, bequeathed by Wm. Higgs. In 1792, an elegant library-room was erected, adjoining the parsonage house, by the rev. Spencer Madan, called the Parochial Library. Under the centre of the clurch, a vault has been made the whole length. The organ has been com¬ pletely repaired by England of London. Interment in the church is wisely prohib¬ ited. St. John’s Chapel in Deritend was founded in the time of Richard 2, 1382. This is a chapel of ease belonging to Aston. The present building was raised in 1735, the steeple in 1762, "8 bells and a clock were added in 1777. St. Bartholomew’s Chapel was built iq 129 BIRMINGHAM; i 3 « 1749, on the b. side of the town. The emulation at present is to excel in moder- chancel is singularly placed to the north, ation of principle, in generosity of dis- The elegant altar-piece, was the gift of position, and liberality of opinion. Basil, earl of Denbigh, and the commu¬ nion plate, weighing 182 ounces, that of Mrs. Mary Carless. The burial ground was found too small, and in 1808, 3 acres of land adjoining were added at the ex¬ pense of 16001. It is bounded by a wall, 5 feet high, surmounted with 3 feet of iron palisadoes. Si. Mary’s Chapel was erected in 1774, by act of parliament, in the octagon form. The land was the gift of the late Mrs. Mary Weaman. St. Paul’s Chapel was erected in 1779, upon a spot presented by Charles Colemore, esq. In 1791, a beautiful painted win¬ dow, representing the conversion of St. Paul, and executed by Francis Eginton, for 400 guineas, was placed over the com¬ munion table. The organ cost about 100 more. Ashstead Chapel was the seat of dr. Ash, a physician, whose intellects became impaired, and his house was pur¬ chased in 1889, by mr. Brooke, attorney, who converted it into an elegant chapel, with an organ, and choristers. Christ Church, or the Free Church, was begun in 1806, situated at the junction of Nevv- street and the Hay maaket. It is a plain edifice, still unfinished. The Old Meeting was erected in the time of Wil- liam 3, but destroyed in the riots of 1791. The trustees recovered damages at law amounting to 13001., and a new meeting has been erected upon the same site, at the expense of about 30001. The New Meeting was built in 1730, and burnt by the same mob. The rev. dr. Priestley succeeded the rev. mr. Hawkes, in 1780. The fury of the mob was so much excited against the person and con¬ nections of dr. Priestley, as to cause him to become, soon after the destruction of this meeting, a voluntary exile from his native soil, taking up his abode in the U- nited States of N. America, where he died, Feb. 16, 1806, at the age of 71. A generous spirit of forbearance and mutual charity has happily succeeded to the phre¬ netic zeal, which at the times just referred to, involved the neighbourhood in confu¬ sion, and had nearly deluged it in blood ; and while the inhabitants have been forg¬ ing destructive weapons for others, every fraternal sentiment has been kindly cher¬ ished among themselves. The leading 6 The Union Meeting in Livery-street, was formerly an amphitheatre. Carr’s Lane Meeting is a scion of the older, trans¬ planted in 1748. Th e Quaker’s Meet¬ ing is a large convenient place, situate in Bull-street. The congregation is flou¬ rishing, rich, and peaceable. To the ev¬ erlasting honour of the quakers, they are the only sect among Christians, who have never exercised weapons of persecution or war. The Methodists are nume¬ rous, being a persuasion more adapted to the understandings of the lower orders than any others. In Birmingham, their first canopy was the heavens, exposed e- equally to rain and the rabble ; they be¬ gan to occupy a place in Steelhouse- yard; then a cast-off theatre in Moor- street, but in 1732, they erected a superb meeting-house, in Cherry-street, which cost 12001. It was opened July 7, by John Wesley, the father of the sect. The 1toman Catholics formerly enjoyed a place of worship, near St. Bartholomew’s- chapel, still called Mass-house-lane, but the rude hands of intolerance destroyed it. The catholics have formerly perse¬ cuted the protestants with great violence, and the protestants in return, persecute them. And yet both of these profess to be followers of the meek and lowly Jesus ' Another catholic chapel has latelv been erected near Bath-street. The Jewish Syn¬ agogue is in the Froggery. The place is small, but generally filled. Besides the chapels already ennumerated, there are the following. In Bond-street, the Baptists; the same in Paradise-street In Oxford-street, the Independents; in King-street, Lady Huntingdon’s ; in Bar- tholomew-street, the Antinomians; in Newhall-street,the New Jerusalem Tem¬ ple ; this elegant and superb building \\ as finished about the year 1790. It’s equal in magnificence had not before appeared in this town. The Swedenburgians, however, sold it to the Methodists, and occupy a small place 3 doors above. The first Theatre erected in this town was in Moor-street, about 1740, afterwards converted into a Meeting-house. In 1752, another was built in King-street, which was enlarged in 1774, now become a meeting-house. In the same year, on«j 131 BIRMINGHAM. 132 most elegantly finished was erected in New-streetat the expense of 5660/., but in August 1794, it was set on fire by some per¬ son never discovered. The proprietors afterwards pnrehased several of the ad¬ joining houses, and in the space of 4 years completed a most commodious and superb theatre, which cost upwards of 14,000/. It is capable of containing an au audience of 2000. In 1807, it was made a Royal Theatre, and from thence may be dated it’s degradation, for it has been let to prize-fighters and puppet- show-men, for the sake of making the most of it. There is a variety of pub¬ lic gardens and bowling-greens; as Vaux- liall. Spring-gardens, and Tea-gardens, at short distances from the town. The Hotel was built in 1772, by a Tontine subscription, there is in it an excellent concert-room. The Free-School stands upon a spot where in 1383, was e. rected a building called the Guild of Holy Cross. The ancient grammar school was taken down in 1707, and the present spa¬ cious building was erected in it’s place. In 1756, a setof urns was placed upon the parapet. A chief master presides over this school, a second master, 2 ushers, a master of writing, and another of draw¬ ing, a librarian, and 7 exhibitioners at the university of Oxford, at 25/. each. In the large room is a bust of Edward 6, the founder, beautifully executed ; the statue of the same person in the front, is an in¬ different performance. Tfie Blue-Coat Charity School was built in 1724, in St. Philip’s Church-yard, but raised to it’s present magnitude in 1794, at the expense of 2,500/. The annual income is 1327/., and it educatesabout 160 boys aud 50 girls in the arts of reading, writing, grammar, arithmetic, sewing, knitting, &c. At the front is a figure of a boy and girl, in the uniform of the school, executed by Grubb. The Dissenter’s Charity School was estab¬ lished about the year 1758, for 40 boys, and 20 girls. It was situated near the Old Meeting, but in 1791, a building was purchased in Park-street, for this purpose and improved at the expense of 1200/. aud has the appearance of a gentleman’s seat, rather than the abode of poverty and want. Small low buildings, suited to the condition of paupers, would be more in character, sine the superabundance of money required to erect this mansion would have gladdened the hearts of many. Few towns are so badly supplied with a Market-place as Birmingham, there being no shelter from the summer’s sun, or win¬ ter’s storm. Corn is sold by sample, in the Bull-ring; vegetables, and fruit in the same place ; butcher’s stalls are in every street; flowers, shrubs, &c., at the end of Philip, Bell, and Moor-streets ; earth¬ en and crockery ware in Moor-street, and under the walls of St. Martin’s church. Cattle are sold in Dale-end; pigs, sheep, and horses, in New-street; cheese, in o- pen yards, in Dale-end and High-street. In the centre of the Bull-ring, is a Bronze Statue, erected in honour of Admiral lord viscount Nelson, by Westmacott, at the expense of 2500/. The hero is repre¬ sented in a reposed and dignified attitude, his left arm reclined upon an anchor. To the r. of the statue is introduced, somewhat incongruously, the grand symbol of the naval profession, in miniature; Victory, the constant leader of her favourite hero, embellishes the prow. To the 1. is dis¬ posed a sail, which passing behind the statue, gives breadth to that view of the composition. Above the ship, is the fac¬ simile of the flag-staff truck of L’Orient, fished up by sir Samuel Hood, the day fol¬ lowing thebattle of the Nile. This group is surmounted upon a pedestal of statuary marble. The town of Birmingham, mu- rally crowned, is represented in a dejected attitude, mourning her loss: she is ac¬ companied by groups of children, who are bringing to her the trident and rud¬ der. The front of the pedestal bears the following inscription. “This statue in honour of Admiral Nelson, was erected by the inhabitants of Birmingham, a. d. 1809. The rump in the market¬ place, built from a design by Wm. Hellins, is in a peculiar style of architecture. It is ornamented with a representation of the Popyras, grouped in quarter columns at each angle, with grecian honeysuckles, and an urn at the top. A lion’s head ap¬ pears to disgorge the water. The General Hospital is a plain but considerable edifice, erected in 1766, with an aspect facing up the hill. The wings were ad¬ ded in 1790. The Dispensary is a plain stone building in Union-street, where the poor receive medical advice and assist¬ ance gratis. The Prison is situated in Moor-street. The front is appropriat- 133 BIRMINGHAM. 134 ed as a public office, and for the purposes of town’s-meeings, &c.; the back part contains the superintendant’s house. The town derives many considerable ad¬ vantages from it’s navigable communica- cation to most parts of the kingdom. The Crescent is intended to consist of a su¬ perb range of 23 stone houses. Gov¬ ernment have erected Barracks on the N. side of the town, capable of accommodat¬ ing 1620 men, at the charge of 13,000/. The most considerable Inns are the Hen- and-Chickens, in New-street; Styles’s Royal Hotel, Temple row ; the Dog, the Swan, and the Castle Inns, High-street; the Stork Tavern, in the Square; the Shakespeare, New-street, and the Union Tavern, Union-street. Near Birming¬ ham are 3 respectable Breweries. The Soho, 2 m. distant, is one of the most extensive manufactories in the kingdom, both with respect to the number of hands employed, and the variety of articles pro¬ duced. It consists of 4 squares, with con¬ necting ranges of warehouses, shops, &c. capable of employing upwards of 1000 workmen in manufacturing articles in gold, silver, steel, &c. of almost every description where fancy is concerned. The proprietors were messrs. Boulton and Watt, men of extensive genius ; the latter paid the debt of Nature, July 24, 1810. Their wonderful steam engines are seen in various parts of the kingdom. A view of the mechanism employed at the Soho has been restricted, some im¬ proper use having been made of the in¬ dulgence ; but the produce of the differ¬ ent departments are exhibited in the Show-room, for sale. The copper cur¬ rency, now in circulation, was coined at Soho; and an extensive recoinageof Span¬ ish dollars, was made here, to supply the deficiency of silver at the mint. The shop of the Richards in High-street, is the Toy.slwp of Birmingham, which is perhaps unequalled for elegance of ap¬ pearance and variety and value of it's ar¬ ticles. Clay’s japan manufacloru, and Clarke and Ashmore’s whip manufactory , in the Bull-ring, have been frequently admired. In this extensive place 4 Newspapers are published weekly. On Monday, Knott and Lloyd’s Birmingham Gazette, and Jabet’s Commercial Herald. on Thursday, Swinney and Co’s Birming¬ ham Chronicle, all in High-street, and on Saturday the Midland Chronicle, at J. O, Smith’s Cherry-street. The Fire-Of¬ fice, Union-street, at this place, was insti¬ tuted March, 1805, where a Life Insur¬ ance and Annuity Company has more re¬ cently been formed. For the rates of of Hackney Coaches, the times of the Mail and other coaches going out, a list of the waggons, boats, and their destina¬ tions, see the Triennial Directory, pub¬ lished by Thomson and Wrightson, New- street, price 3s. 6 Gryffyth was slain. Llewelyn had proceeded westward up the vale of Irvon, on the southern side, where he crossed the river a little below Llangnis church, over a bridge called Pont y coed, or the bridge of the wood, intend¬ ing to return into N. Wales, or to his friends in Caermarthenshire, but was op¬ posed by Oliver de Dynekam who had been sent to attack the welsh by King Edward. He stationed the few troops he had brought with him (after a transient victory over the English, at the foot of river, where from the height of the sta¬ tion, covered with wood, a handful of men were able to defend the bridge. He here waited in expectation of reinforce¬ ment, during which time the English army came up and made an ineffectual at¬ tempt to gain the bridge, but a sir Elias Walwyn discovered a ford at some little distance, where a detachment of the En¬ glish crossed the river and advancing un¬ perceived at the backs of the Welsh, rout¬ ed them. Llewelyn stationed in a small dell at a short distance, probably watching the main army of the English, who were on the other side of the river, was slain, tho’ unarmed, by one Adam de Francton, who plunged a spear into his body, and proceeded with the pursuing army. When Francton returned, he perceived that the person he had wounded (for he was still alive) was the prince of Wales, and delighted with the discovery, he im¬ mediately cut off his head and sent it to the king of England. Here did the val- liant Welsh make their last stand, and thus fell the last and greatest of the welsh princes. The soldiers dragged the body of the unfortunate prince to where the two roads from Builth now divide, one lead¬ ing to Llanafan and the other to Llan- gammarch, and here buried him. The spot is still called Cefn y bedd Llewelyn, the ridge of Llewelyn’s grave. Some ac¬ counts say that Llewelyn, unarmed, con¬ ferring with a few of his chieftains in a contiguous dell, heard the event from the cries of his flying army. He made an effort to rejoin his men, but the spear of his enemy spared him the an¬ guish of witnessing the ruin of his country’s liberties. The recitals of this event are so contradictory, that it is difficult to ascertain whether Llewelyn fell in a detached situation from his troops, or he was slain at their head. About a mile or two below this spot, up¬ on a precipitous bank, close to the river, where it begins to take a circular curve, is a mound, partly natural, upon which a castle is said to have stood, called Castell Caer beris. The soil upon it’s site re¬ sembles burnt wood, which indicates that it may have been a british tower con¬ structed entirely of wood. In this par¬ ish is several unproductive commons, in¬ termixed with and intersecting the inclo- 233 BUILTH. 234 ed lands. The banks of the Irvon are well wooded, and the views picturesque. About lm on the r. of this place is the mansion of Rhosferig, the possession once of Elystan Glodrydd, prince of Ferlix or Fferreg. Yet so far from being a rhos or barren common, it is a very highly cultivat¬ ed farm. The situation of the dwel¬ ling-house is beautiful beyond descrip¬ tion. The clear stream of the ’VVhefriruns below in a narrow but picturesque dingle. Beyond these, upon the s. side of the river is the woody knoll of Parc contrasted on the n-e. by the irregular and fantastic rocks of Llanelwedd. The old house sunk under the attacks of time. The proprie¬ tor of the modern house is John Lloyd, esq. the last lineal descendant of the eld¬ est line of Elyslan, who resides chiefly at Aberanell in Llangammarch. Parc ar Ir¬ von, situated not far from the fall of the Chwefri into the Whefri, was once the res¬ idence of a family who assumed the sur¬ name of Williams, now a farm-house the property of mr. M armaduke Gwynne of Garth and Llanelwedd. It is upon this tenement that the mineral springs before- mentioned are situated. The river Chwe¬ fri is remarkable for the abundance of it’s trout, which far exceed those of the Wye or Irvon in firmness and flavour : it emp¬ ties itself into the latter a little below Parc-house after rising near Varlyn pool on the borders of Llanwrthwl, running through Llanavan, and skirting the s. boundary of Rhosferig: it has been de¬ rived from Chwe dwr fri (six waters a. bovc, or from chwcfr, swift, and wy, wa¬ ter.) Llanvechan, or Llanavan vechan, or St. Avan’s, the lesser, is a parochial chapel attached to Llanavan vawr. It is small partly covered with shingles; in the yard is an altar tombstone inscribed Samuel Evans, de Gwaravog, 1779, whose family was of the tribe of Elystan Glodrydd• A narrow slang of this parish crosses the Irvon to the s. At the extremity of this projection is a tremendous precipice cal¬ led Cwm g raig ddu, the vale of the black rock terminating a narrow dinge, thence called Cwm graig ddu, which seen from the road-side near the top of the rock, tho’ rather naked, includes the ideas of com¬ fort and shelter; from below, the im¬ pending rock is sublimely terrific. Upon this side of the Irvon near it’s banks, are some pleasing groves and fertile mead¬ ows. The mansion of Garlli, long the residence of the Gwynnes descended to the daughter of Marmaduke Gwynne, son of judge Gwynne, who married Howel Gwynne of Bryniociau, by which 2 estates were united, which have been since di¬ vided between the families of Garth and Glanbran. This mansion is now let to an english farmer. At a short distance a_ cross the Dulas, in a field, is a Spring re¬ sembling the well at Llanwrtyd. Contigu¬ ous to Garth is the church Llanlleonvcl, through which parish a vicinal branch of Sarn Lleon or Chester road passed, connect¬ ing Mundunum with the station at Cwm, and there uniting with the principal Sarn He¬ len, from Neath to Chester. This little church is situated upon a small eminence on the n-w. side of the river Dulas. Since the family of the Gwynnes discontinued to reside at Garth this fabric has devolv¬ ed rapidly into neglect. Upon a stone tablet affixed to the e. pine end, above the communion-table, are the arms borne by judge Gwyn in a shield and mantle, and in other parts are various inscriptions to the Gwynnes. The n. part of this parish is chiefly a common or rhos: upon the banks of the Irvon are some cultivated en¬ closures and meadows; and upon the s. side of the river is a mansion called Gwa¬ ravog, or summer bank. A highway from Llantiliangel Ahergwessin and the wilds of Caerdiganshire to Brecon, crosses the Llandovery road close to Llanlleonvel, and thence over the Irvon, by a bridge a few yards above w'hich the Dulas empties it¬ self. Llangamarch church is situat¬ ed upon a projecting rock, between the rivers Irvon and Camarch, near the fall of the latter, consisting of a naive only. It is covered with shingles. Within this parish, now greatly deserted, there are no less than 8 principal mansions, in which once families of opulence resided 1. Caerau, possessed by the family of Lloyd. Upon the n. side of the house is a round artificial mound of earth, about 80 yards in circumference and 6 in height; from this circumstance, from the discovery of some rubbish and ruins, and from the place being called the encampment, some have concluded that it was formerly a ro¬ man station, and made it the Bulleum Silurum of Ptolomy. That it was an arx speculatoria, or centinel’s watch-tower on the roman road from Caemarthen to 235 BU1LTH. 236 thcjunction with the Sam Helen at Cwm in Radnorhire, rar. Jones, the Historian of Breconshire, thinks very probable, es¬ pecially as there may have been a much more extensive castellated mansion, du¬ ring the residence of the early descen¬ dants of Elystan Glodrydd, but there is no pretence for supposing it to be the british town mentioned by Ptolomy. 2. Aberanell, has continued the residence of the proprietors; formerly the Willi¬ amses and now Lloyd. 3. Macs yr Onn, or Ashfield, upon the s.w. side of the parish, continued long the residence of the respectable family of Price; but was lately sold to . 4. Llancamddwr, so called from the windings of the Irvon near this place, was a family seat of a junior branch of the house of Cacrau: 5. Llyncadwgan has been for centuries an insignificant farm-house, but in the time Elizabeth it was the paternal inheritance of the ancestor of the present noble family of Cadogan. 6. At Cefn-bryn was born, in 1594, that volumnious writer and eccentric ivanderer, James Howel. He died in Nov. 1666, and was buried in the Temple church. He was author of the Epistoloe Hoelin, Lexicon tetrag- lotton, Londinopolis, Dodona’s Grove, and other publications, amounting, according to Wood, to upwards of 50. His motto was “ Senesco non segnesco.” 6. Dol- gaer was the residence of a family called called Stedman. 8. Llyiayneinon,\s the residence of the Evanses, of which fami¬ ly was the rev. Thcophilus Evans, born in 1694, ordained priest 1719, and in 1728 the bishop gave him the small rectory of Llanynis, which he held 10 years and then resigned it on being presented to I.lan- gammarch. In 1763 he ceded the latter living in favour of his son-in-law and successor Hugh Jones, clerk. His publi¬ cations are Pvvyll i Pader, a comment on the Lord’s prayer, 1739; “ Drych y prif oesoedd,” i. e. a brief chronicle or history of the Britons, 1739. This book has been nearly as popular in S. Wales as “ Llyfr y Ficear Llandyfria third edition has been published at Merthyr Tydvil. In 1752 he published “ A History of mod¬ em Enthusiasm,” and in 1759, a 2d. edi¬ tion, both of which have long been out of print. On the road from Llan- camarch to Rhayader, are stones plac¬ ed irregularly in the ground, which have given a common the name Rhos saith maen, or seven stone common, probably to commemorate a battle. Llanwrtyd, (the church by the ford) is situated upon an eminence near the bank of the river Irvon, over which there is now a bridge. Not far distant is an ancient mansion cal¬ led Dinas, possessed by a family called Lloyd, descended from Rees Lloyd. The house is pleasantly situated upon an em¬ inence. Upon the n. rises a nearly pre¬ cipitous, but beautiful knoll, covered with wood. The country for upwards of 2 or 3m. up the vale of Irvon, is beautiful and variegated beyond description. A- bout lm. below Dinas, upon the opposite side of the Irvon, is Dul y coed, once the residence of a family named Jones, now a public house, established for the accom¬ modation of company who resort in the summer season to drink the water from a well called Ffynnon drevdlyd, or the stink¬ ing well. It was discovered in 1732 by the rev. Theophilus Evans, vicar of Llan- gamarch. The sediment is white and changes silver into a dark copper-colour. It is most effectual in scorbutic and cuta¬ neous cases, relaxation of the fibres of the stomach, and in all chronical distem¬ pers, where salt and acidity ever a- bound. As soon as this water is receiv¬ ed into a glass, it sparkles, and you may see the air bubbles rise. It is a very light water and perfectly soft. It dissolves soap immediately and intimately unites with it. It sits easy upon the stomach and passes quietly through the kidneys. Dr. Blenkinsop of Abergavenny publish¬ ed a paper in the Genteman’s Magazine, in which he says, “ I saw a trial of it, when nothing but this water would re¬ main upon the stomach impaired by drink¬ ing spiritous liquors. A little brandy was put to it at first, and in a few days drank alone, and the person perfectly recover¬ ed. It is a fine dieuretic, because it’s ef¬ fects are the same with every person who drinks it even in the smallest quantity, and is therefore useful in nephritic com¬ plaints, where a stone is not confirmed. It’s saponaceous quality must prove, I think, a dissolvent for sabulous matter, either in the kidneys or bladder he then proceeds to give an instance of it’s effi¬ cacy in this complaint, and others oflow- ness of spirits, and inveterate scurvy. Four rivers fall into the Irvon within this 237 BUILTH. 538 Parish, i. c. the Henog, Llcdwiail, Cledan, and Cerdin. Llanddezvi Abergmessin and Llanvihangel Abergmessin, lie n. in the vale of Irvon, the most wild, uncultivated, and uninhabitable part of Breconshire. The churches of these places are near one to the other, the former being a few yards w. of the Irvon, and the latter upon the other side, at the junction of the Gwessin. ,Nani ij Flaiddast or the brook of the she wolf, one ol the Termini, mentioned in the charter of Rees ap Griffith, to the monks of Ystradjlur, is the name of a rill, and of a small farm within this precinct. Up¬ on the w. boundary was formerly the mansion of John Lloyd, the son of Thom¬ as Lloyd, who was a partisan of the earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry 8. His only son, by the second wife, John Lloyd, served in tire wars under Henry, he was afterwards, according to the inscription upon a brass plate in Builth church, “ Squer to the bodie” of queen Elizabeth, first Sheriff, justice of the peace, and steward of the manor of Builth, under Walter earl of Essex. John Lloyd resided at his mansion of Forth ycrwys, or the gate of the cross, in Llanynis, sometime pre¬ vious to his decease in 1585. No vestage •of this house remains, but it’s situation in a field, belonging the farm Cefnllys gmin is well known. Notwithstanding the distance from markets, the badness of the roads, and the inclemency of the climate, mr. Jones, a gentleman of con¬ siderable property, has built a handsome house called Llwynderw, or the oak-grove, in this parish, where he resides, and at¬ tends much to the rearing of sheep, of which he is supposed to be the greatest proprietor in S. Wales. His stock is said to amount to upwards of 10,000, worth 10 or 12i. each. The vale in which the mansion of Henry Thomas and David Thomas, esqrs. is situated, is remarkably beautiful and romantic ; this family de¬ scended from one of the younger branch¬ es of the house of Elystan Glodrydd, and have been possessed of a tenement cal¬ led Llwynmadoc, for some centuries. Up- the w. border of this parish is the lake of Llyngynon, whence arises a brook called Brwyno or rather Brwgnog, the rushy, running into the Clearwen, after it has reached the Clenrddu, soon after the unit¬ ed streams fall into the Elan. This pool and rill, says the historian of Breconshire, would not have deserved notice, if Ed. ward Richards, the sweet swan of Ystrad- meuric, had not preserved their names, which will exist as long as the british language exists. Heddyw’n clodforu a’n tofod Llyn Teifi y foru’n lion ganu Llyngynon. Dewisach it oesu rhwng Claerwen a chlaerddu na phlygu ag hyderu ar gwd arall. To day we praise our Towy’s stream, next day Llyngynon claims the theme. Oh! rather starve on Claerwen’s side, or on the banks of Claerddu hide, than on another’s purse depend, or pennyless intreat a friend. Few are they who know how well these ideas apply to the poet. He predicted in one of his pastorals that he should die de¬ serted and abandoned. He was found dead in bed, his doors locked, and no other being in the house. The par¬ ish of Llanwrthml adjoins that of Llanvi- hangel Abergmessin. The former consists of lofty hills, bogs, and commons. Dry. gam or Derwidd garn, Mount Druid, or Druid’s rock, lies partly in the 2 parishes, and may be seen from the Brecon beacons. Upon it are many Curnau or Carneddau, as there are upon a lesser eminence cal¬ led Gemrhiw. Descending from these mountainous regions and approaching the banks of the Elan and Wye a succession of pictures is presented, than which noth¬ ing can exceed in beauty. Yslrad is a house pleasantly situated upon the banks of the Wye, the property of James Watt esq. one of the partners of the Soho ma¬ nufactory, Birmingham. While at Builth, mr. Skrine made an excursion to Llandrindod Wells, a- bout 7 miles distant. He found the road difficult to trace, and arduous to travel. At length, in the midst of a wild common, they saw some scattered houses, near the springs, which appear to have gained a considerable share of just reputation. After his return, he pursued the valley of the Wye, which leads to the Wells of Llanmrtyd, which are said to possess sim¬ ilar qualities with those at Llandrindod, but difficult of access and destitute of ac¬ commodations. Hence he returned back to Llandovery by a different route turning his course towards Cacrdigan- shire. On mr. Skrine’s 2d. visit to Builth, from Radnor, he took a farewell view of the charming vicinage of this place, from it's bridge and the mount of 233 BUILTII. CADER IDRIS. 240 it’s castle, and then proceeded down the delightful banks of the Wye, to the Hay, through a continued succession of noble scenery, in which some gentlemen’s seats make a distinguished appearance. The course or the Wye to Rhayader is a romantic stage, and pcrferable to eve¬ ry other route, when the traveller is con¬ fined to a single visit. From the hand¬ some bridge of six arches at Builth, Llanel- i oedd House forms a well dressed object. After a mile’s walk near the banks of the river, it becomes confined, rapid and ma¬ jestic. From this place the road bends a little to the r. quitting the Wye for a dreary common, 2 or 3m. in extent, ter¬ minating at Ithon Bridge. The rest of the journey to Rhayader becomes extremely picturesque, various, and interesting; it is continued near the Wye, in all it’s twistings and deviations. We pass in succession through fine woods, over bar¬ ren rocks, and across dreary commons, till the general nakedness of the country is relieved by the plantations about a neat house on the r. called Llwyn y Burned upon a declivity. Upon the w. side of the river are several stately groves of oaks ; the meadows on the eastern side are rich and cultivated. The pedestrian may take a nearer path along the mead¬ ows to a new turnpike road. Perhaps the most engaging scene in this stretch of country is about a mile from Rhayader ; at the confluence of the Clarwen with the Wye.—Malkin. “ We had not pro¬ ceeded more than a mile, on the 1. before the scenery of the Wye became too inter¬ esting to be passed with transient obser¬ vation ; we therefore threw ourselves upon it’s eastern bank, under the shade of a friendly aspen tree, to contemplate it’s beauties at leisure. At this spot the view is particularly striking.”—Warner. To Brecon the road lies over a long, lonesome, and boggy mountain, whence the descent is into a pleasing valley, with a good turnpike-road. See Brecon. The road to Trec arron. Advance 1m. on the r. is Pen y point. , on the 1. is Maes- mynis, about lm. further on the 1. upon the opposite side of the Irvon, is Llun- ynis ; to Keven y beihl, lm. Llanavonvnch, l^rn. Cross the Dulcs river at Pont maes V g&nfford, 2m. Llangammarch, l^m. (on the 1. to Llandovery, 14m.; on the r. to Rhaydcr, by way of Llanconvcll and Llan- arvon vawr, about the same distance.) A- bout lm. further on the r. is Garth-house. (Two m. from Llangammarch are roads, on the 1. to Llandovery crossing the Cam- ddwr river, by way of Llancamddwr, af¬ terwards cross the Irvon, leaving Llan- wrtid on the r. Cross the Cledan and soon after fall into the Great road ; and on the r. to Rhayader.) About 7m. from Llangammarch, cross the Gwessen river, through Llanvihangel Abergwcssen, and leaving Llanddewi Abergwessin on the r. ; enter Cardiganshire at Nant y Slalwyn, 5 m. in which space the river Irvon is cros¬ sed 3 times. (From Nant y stalwyn is a road to Ystradjlur Abbey, on the w. banks of the Towey, for nearly 3m. and after¬ wards over a mountainous country for a- bout 6m.) Ffnvd or Camddwr 3jm. Fus y Cenglau, 2§m. (on the 1. Llyn Berwyn .) Cwm berzvyn, lm. Pant y seiri, on the 1. m. Clapsinny, 2m. Tregarron, lm. To Rhayader, I3tj. miles, Barber; Warner. , — Brecon, 1(5^ miles, Wyndham. — Llandovery, from Llanwrtyd wells, Skrine. — Hay, 19£ miles, Skrine’s 2d visit. Back to Hay, 15 miles, Malkin. To Tregarron, 22j miles. — To Llandrindod Wells, 7 miles. — Newtown, 2BJ miles. — Llandovery oo|m. — Presteign, FromDolgelly, 6milcs, Aikin ; Evans; Bingley; Pennant. - Machynlleth, 11 miles, Warner. CADER IDRIS, a considerable moun. tainin Merionethshire, 1 ^m. s. from Dolgel- ly; is so called according to tradition, from a person called Idris, an enormous giant. The old bardic writings, rather represent him great in mind than in stature. He is said to have been a poet, an astronomer and philosopher. Cadair Idris, or the seat of Idris, is thought to imply that he had an observatory, upon the summit of the mountain. ‘‘The remarkable appearance of this stupendous mountain attracted the atten¬ tion of mr. Donovan about the year 1801. He was then led to consider from a vari¬ ety of circumstances, that the original form of the mountain had undergone very material alterations, occasioned, as he conceived, by the effects of volcanic explosion; but his remarks were not sufficiently precise to authorize the as¬ sertion. Since that period he has exam- 241 CADER IDRIS. 242 ined the mountain in a less cursory man¬ ner, especially in the summer of 1807, when he was at leisure to devote some time to this interesting subject of inquiry, and his observations, in the latter in¬ stance, tend entirely to confirm the idea first suggested. In support of this opini¬ on mr. Donovan has now added to his mu¬ seum abundant examples of different kinds of lava, pumice, and other volcanic matters of the most unequivocal charac¬ ter, collected by himself from the sides and base of the mountain; and also a suite of the remarkable and singularly formed columnar crystals of basalt, which are scattered in profusion about the loftiest summit, and cliffs surrounding the crater. The general aspect of this crater is exact¬ ly that of Mount Vesuvius, except that one of it’s sides is broken down, by which means the abyss of this funnel-shaped ex¬ cavation is more completely disclosed than in th ra vesuvian mountain; and it is this side of Cader Idris which affords the most illustrative examples of porous stones, these forming immense beds on the declivities a fevv inches only in many instances below the surface of the earth. A number of these porous stones lately found in this spot by mr. Donovan, exhib¬ it evident marks of strong ignition and vitrification, some are reduced to the state of slags, while others have all the cellular appearance and lightness of pumice. Without entering upon any discussion of the neptunian and vulcanian theories, it must be admitted, that the agency of wa¬ ter might have contributed materially to affect those changes in the primitive form of the Cader Idris mountain, which have evidently taken place. But with respect to the crater itself, this appears very clear¬ ly to have derived it’s origin from the vi¬ olence of an explosion upwards, in which a very considerable portion of the highest eminence was torn from it’s native bed of rocks, and thrown to a considerable height over the other parts of the mountain. In confirmation of this sug¬ gestion it should be mentioned that the summit of the mountain is covered with an immense wreck of the stones, ejected as it is presumed from the crater at the time of this explosion ; it would be diffi¬ cult otherwise to account for the vast profusion of those stones, scattered in all directions round the loftiest elevations, and which, from the confused manner in which they are dispersed, must have been thrown into their present situation by no small violence. Myriads of these stones have borne a regular crystallized form, tho’ from their great bulk and weight they have for the most part suffered ma¬ terial injury in the general convulsion. The usual length of these crystals is from 3 to 6 or 10 feet in length; some measure even 16 or 20, and one in particular which mr. Donovan has seen, was 22 feet 3 inches long. They are however, slen¬ der in proportion to the length. The substance of these crystals is of the basalt kind, and correspond very nearly with some varieties of the “lave porphyre,’’ of Una, described by Dolomieu, and Fau- jas de St Fond; and in the form of it’s crystals agrees with others of the basaltes prismatique of the last author. In the neptunian theory it is not indeed admitted as a basalt, but as a porphyry argil. It is the porphirschiefer of Werner, and porph¬ yry slate, or clinkstone porphyry of Ja¬ mieson.”—Communicated by mr. Dono¬ van, to the edit, of the Univ. Mag. March 1808, p. 236. AN EXCURSION FROM DOLGELLY, chiefly from Mr. A. Aikin’s Tour, The day being promising, we set off after breakfast to examine this mountain. A small lake, called Llyn y garter, lies about a mile and a half on the high-road to Towyn, which having arrived at, we quitted the road and began our ascent. In this lake is found the Lobelia dort- manna, Narthecium ossifragum, the ele¬ gant Nymph* lutea, and aromatic Nymp- hasa alba. When we had surmounted the exterior ridge, we descended a lit¬ tle to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full by the numerous tribu¬ tary torrents which fall down the sur¬ rounding rocks. Hence we climbed a second and still higher chain, up a steep but not difficult track, over numerous fragments of rock, detached from the higher parts : we now came to a second and more elevated lake, called Llyn y Cae, clear as glass, and overlooked by steep cliffs, in such a manner as to resemble the crater of a volcano, of which a most ac¬ curate representation may be seen in Wil¬ son’s excellent view of Cader Idris. Some travellers have mentioned the finding la- 243 CADER va and other volcanic productions here ■ on a strict examination, however, we were unable to discover any thing of the kind, nor did the water of the lake appear to differ in any respect from the purest rock water, tho’ it was tried repeatedly with the most delicate chemical tests. A clear, loud, and distinct echo, repeats ev¬ ery shout which is made near the lake. Here also grows the Narthecium ossifra- gum, and on the surrounding rocks, Ru- mex digynus, Rhodiola rosea, Thalictrum minus, T. alpinum, Lycopodium selagon- oides, and L. clavatum. The waters of this lake cover an extent of 50 acres, a- boundir.g with trout and other fish. We now begin our last and most difficult as¬ cent up the summit of Cader Idris itself. The loose columnar stones, lie about in all directions, assuming in many places so regular an appearance, that they might be mistaken for druidic remains; some of them stand erect, like Maen hirion, and one is dignified with the title Llcch Idris. Nearer the summit, numerous masses of irregular figures present themselves. Having gained this ascent, a small plain forms the base, to 2 eminences or rocky beads, of nearly equal height, one lying towards the n. called Tyrrau Manor ; the other, to the s. called Pen y Gader. We made choice of the latter, which appear¬ ed the most elevated, and seated ourselves upon it’s highest pinnacle, to rest, after a laborious ascent of 3 hours. We were now above all the eminences within a vast ex¬ panse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks, which we before looked up to with aston¬ ishment, were now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the vallies between them. To the n. Snow¬ don and it’s dependences shut up the scene; on the w. we saw the whole curve of the bay of Caerdigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon mount¬ ains, and nearer, dashing it’s white break¬ ers against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the openings ofthe Brecon mountains ; and on the e. the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the 2 Arennig mountains, the 2 Arrans, and thelong chainoftheFerwynmountains, to the Breddin hills on the confines of Shrpp- IDRIS. 244 shire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop. Having satisfied our cu¬ riosity, and being thoroughly chilled by the keen air of these elevated regions, we began to descend down the side op¬ posite to that which we had come up.* The first stage led us to another beautiful mountain lake, the cold clear waters of which discharges their superabundance in a stream down the side of the mountain. All these lakes abound with trout, and in some is found thegwyniad, a fish peculiar to rocky alpine lakes. Following the course of the stream, we came upon the edge of the craggy cliffs which overlook Talyllyn lake ; a long and difficult descent conducted us, at last, to the borders of Talyllyn, where we entered the Dolgelly road. The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, rises on the sea-shore, close upon the n. side of the es¬ tuary of the small river Disynwy, about a mile from Towyn. It proceeds with al. most a constant ascent, first northwards for about 3m.; then, for 10m. further, runs ene., giving out from it’s summit a branch nearly 3m. long, in a s-w. direc¬ tion, parallel to the main ridge. It is ve¬ ry steep and craggy on every side ; but the s. descent, especially to the border of Talyllyn lake, is the most precipitous, be¬ ing nearly perpendicular. It’s breadth bears but a small proportion to it’s length; a line passing along it’s base and intersect¬ ing the summit, would scarcely equal 4^ m.; and in the other parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds lm. in breadth. Cader Idris is the beginning ofa chain of primitive mountains, extend¬ ing in a nne. direction and including the Arrans and the Arennigs. It is much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which surround it. The Plants found toward the top of Cader, are Aira csspitosa, Festuca ovi- na. F. duriuscula, Poa alpina, &c. These plants are found here, as in all such situ¬ ations, in their viviparous state. In other parts grow the Saxifragahypnoides, S.stellaris, S.oppositifolia; on Craigy cae, Sphagnum alpinum, Rhodiola rosea, and Vaccinium vitis idsea, in abundance; Gnaphalium dioicum, Pteris crispa, Pin- guicula vulgaris, Sedum telephium, S. rupe3tre, Lycopodium selago, Campanula rotundifolia, C. var 0, Jungermannia al- 245 CADER IDRIS. 246 pina, J. julacca, Jungermannia minium. Lichen paschalis, L. fragilis, with other species, Thalictrum minus, and the Arbu¬ tus alpina. Descending to Dolgelle through Bwlch doch, at it’s foot grows the Polytrichum alpinum, and P. unigerum, •and on loose stones down a rough and and rubbly road, the Lichen centrifugus. The following Extracts are from mr. Bingley’s excursion. “ 1 stopped” says he, “ at the Blue-lion, a small public house, a little beyond the Llyn trigras en- yn, and enquiring what they could give me to dinner, found as doctor Johnson did at Glenelg, in the highlands of Scot¬ land, that, “of the provisions, the negative catalogue was very copious.” Here was no flesh-meat, except bad bacon; no eggs, no wine, no spirits, I however, oblig¬ ed by necessity, contented myself with what they could give me, bread and butter, and new ale. Edward Jones, the man who lives at this house, in the winter teaches a small school, and during the summer season performs the office of guide hence to the summit of Cader Idris. This house being situated by the road side, immediately beneath Cader Idris, is a very convenient place for travellers coming from Machynlleth to Dolgelly from which to ascend that mountain. They may, if it be not inconvenient, on ac¬ count of carriages or horses, go over the summit of the mountain and down the oth¬ er side to Dolgelly in nearly as short a space of timeas it would require to descend again to this place. At the time I came here, it rained most violently ; so that bad as the house was, I determined to remain all night, in hopes that the morning might be clearer, and permit me to go up the moun¬ tain. The morn proving finer, I deter¬ mined to venture, and take the chance of the weather. Being provided with such things as the house afforded, bread, cheese and ale, we set out on our expedition at 9. Since there had been so much rain, the guide took me along the side of a rivulet which runs from one of the hollows a- bove, down the side of a mountain, to see a small cataract, formed by it’s falling down the face of a deep rock. The tor¬ rent, swelled by rains, foamed along it’s channel, and came down in a white and thrice broken sheet. This altogether was very small but extremely pretty. A little above this I saw another cas¬ cade on the same stream, smaller and more contracted than the last. The wa¬ ter was a little broken towards the top, but it fell down an almost perpendicular rock about 8 yards in height. This little cataract would have appeared trifling, had it not been ornamented by 3 large oaks, the branches of which, while they almost concealed the stream, added greatly to it’s beauty. I now crossed this mountain- ain rivulet, and went along the side of it for a little way, entertained in many pla¬ ces by the little cascades formed in it’s descent, among the abrupt rocks which lay in it’s course. After a while I came to a hollow, containing the dismal waters of Llyny Cae, (the inclosed pool) from the w. side of which rises an immense black and precipitous rock, called Craig y Cae, casting a gloomy shade on every thing below it. It’s sullen and majestic front was only enlivened with patches of the moss saxifrage, and a few goats of pure white, which were skipping carelessly along it’s dangerous steeps. From it’s spiry points and deep precipices, it has as¬ sumed an appearance not much unlike the age-worn front of an ancient cathe¬ dral. The whole of the scene, from near the edge of the pool, is truly picturesque and grand. While I was gazing at the rock, a smart shower of rain came on, and after it was over I was entertained with a phenomenon, novel to me, but not uncommon among the mountains. The clouds were on a sudden whirled around the top, and apparently confined within the hollow; the motion was continued for some time, and then remaining still for a while, they were again sent round with considerable velocity. I can only ac¬ count for this, by supposing them so dense, that resting below the upper edge, the wind in passing over, gave them this rotatory motion. The clouds now rose a- bove the mountains, and the highest peak of Cader Idris was alone clouded. I as¬ cended by Biulch y Cae to the summit, which is called Pen y Cader (the head of the seat); this, like that of Snowdon, is conical, and covered for some distance with small loose stones. I continued here enveloped in mist for more than half an hour, when the mountain became per¬ fectly cleared for about ten minutes. I had then a view, if not more extensive, yet if any thing, more varied, than that 247 fromSnovdon. On one side I observed that the mountain was broken into an ab¬ rupt and deep precipice, at the bottom of which lodged a small lake. Cader Idris has S high points, the most lofty called Pen s/ Cader; the next in height, Mynydd Mod; and the 3d Craig v Car. The ascent is much easier than up Snowdon, and I am confident, that from Edward Jones’s house, I could walk to the summit in a- bout 0 hours. Of the height of the mountain, mr. Pennant says, that Pen y Cader is 950 yards higher than the green near Dolgelly; Aranoxcddy, 740 yards above LlynTegid; and the Arrrnig only CO yards short of the Arran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelly green is 1 SO yards; so that the real difference of height between Cader and the Arran is only 30 yards.” In order to vary my walk as much as possible, I took a different way down, by going more e. and descending along that part of the mountain, called Mynydd Mod. The path in this direc¬ tion was sufficiently sloping all the way to permit a person to ride quite up to the summit. A gentleman mounted on a lit¬ tle welsh poney, had done it but a few days before I was there. The road from Jones's cottage to Machynlleth, is very even and good ; but lying in a narrow hollow, between wooded mountains, without much variety of character. The murmuring of the rivulet, which accom¬ panied me several miles, and here and there a picturesque cottage seated in the woods, were my only amusements, till I came within C miles of Machynlleth, when I entered the fine vale in which the town of Machynlleth stands, but it does not appear sooner than at the dis¬ tance of lm.; for being seated in a vale, and hidden by intervening mountains, it only becomes visible on a sudden turn in the road just before an approach to the river.” Mr. Warner describes his prospect from the summit of Cader Idris, as fol¬ lows. ‘"'The afternoon was gloriously fine, and the atmosphere perfectly clear, so that the vast unbounded prospect lay be¬ neath, ur,obscured by cloud, vapour, or any other interruption, to the astonished and delighted eye: which threw it’s glance over a varied scene, including a circumference of at least 500m. To the n-e. was lteland, like a distant mist upon 24S the ocean; and a little to the r. Snowdon and the other mountains of Caernarvon¬ shire. Further on, in the same direction, tire Isle of Man, the neighbourhood of Chester, Wrexham, and Salop; the sharp head of the Wrckin, and the undulating summit of the Clee hills. To the s. I saw tire country round Clifton, Pembroke¬ shire, St. David’s, and Swansea; to the w. a vast prospect of the British channel, bounded by the horizon. Exclusive of these distant objects, the nearer views were wonderfully striking. Numberless mountains, of different forms, appearanc¬ es, and elevation, rose in all directions; which with the various harbours, lakes, and rivers, towns, villages, and villas, scattered over the extensive prospect, combined to form a scene inexpressibly august, diversified, and impressive.”— First walk. p. 99. The peak of Cader Idris consists of si¬ liceous porphyry, quartz, and felspar, en¬ closed in a green paste, with siliceous schistose porphyry intersected with veins of quariz and argillaceous porphyry in a mass, and a dark grey paste. Besides several rocks contain the component parts of granite and porphyry, with a great proportion of white greasy-look ing quartz. In several specimens, the fclsparbeing de¬ composed. has fallen out, and given the quartz a porous appearance. Tho’ several travellers have compared the height of Cader Idris to Snowdon, from a deception in it’s appearance, accu. rate admeasurements prove that the apex of the former is not more than 2S50 feet above the level of Dolgelly.green, while the great peak of Snowdon is more than 3600 above the quay of Caernarvon. Ascending CadeT Idris from Dolgelly, by way Llvn Gwernan, Llan-cihangd-y Pennant, a vale on the other side, and thence to Pen y cader mr. Pennant de¬ scended from the edge of the greater pre¬ cipice, till he came near the Cyfrxcy, an¬ other peak. The day was very unfavour¬ able, which prevented him from making accurate observations. After recovering from his fatigue, he began another jour¬ ney, in order to encircle the base of the mountain, of which the following is his account. “ I took the same road as be. fore, and continued my ride beneath Tyr- rau maxcr, one of the points of Cader Idris. Beyond, are the 2 pools called Uyniau CADER IDRIS. 249 CADER IDRIS. CAERD1FF. 250 Gregenan ; and not far distant, are some remains of circles of upright stones, with many earns ; avast stone, raised erect up¬ on the top of a neighbouring rock ; and several maeni hirion, or rude upright columns. At some distance beyond these, near the river Cregennam, I saw the remains of Uys Bradwyn, the court or pal¬ ace of Eduowuin, chief of one of the fif¬ teen tribes of N. Wales, either in the reign of Gryffydd ap Cynan, or soon after. The relics are about 30 yards square; the en¬ trance about 7 feet wide, with a large upright stone on each side, by way of door-case j the walls with large stones, uncemented by any mortar; in short,the structure of this place shews the very low state of architecture in those times; it may be paralleled only by the artless fabric of a cattle-house. Ednyfed ap Aaron, a descendent of this great man, had the hon¬ our of entertaining Owen Glyndwr, in one of his sad reverses of fortune ; and is said to have concealed him in a cave, in the parish of Llan Gelynin, called to this day Ogof Owain. Continue the ride, as before, between high mountains, in a narrow glen. Quit the narrow pass and go along a good road, formed upon the sides of the hills, with a fine slope from it to the sea. The road now pas¬ ses between verdant and smooth hills, the great sheep walks of the country; rounded at their tops. From a place cal¬ led Allt-Lv;yd, have a very full view of •.he flat called Towyn Meirionydd, a mix¬ ture of meadow land and black turbery, watered by the Dysynwy, which falls in¬ to the sea a few miles lower. On one tide is the village and church of Tywyn >r Towyn. [See a continuation of this ourney under Towyn.] To Machynlleth, 20m. Eingley. Back to Dolgelly, Aikin; Evans. To Towyn, Pennant. — To Dolgelly, (from Machynlleth, over the mountains, 20m.) Warner. From Caerphilly Castle, 8 miles, Barber. - Cowbridge, 12§ miles, and intervening places, Malkin. - Newport, 111 miles, Donovan ; Evans; Skrine; Manby. - LlandafT, 3 miles, Donovan. Back from Caerphilly Castle, Evans; Manby. From Pont y pridd, 3 miles, Wyndham. CAERDIFF, the fortress on the river 'aff, the capital of Glamorganshire, is a neat, well-paved town. One of the princi¬ pal streets extends in a southerly direction, nearly from the castle to the new quay. Adjoining the latter, a commodious range of buildings has been very recently erect¬ ed, which contribute to ornament the place. The influx of strangers during the summer months is very considerable. Mr. Donovan says, that no people know better how to profit by the liberality or creduli¬ ty of strangers, than the Caerdiffinn-keep- ers, that their extortion can only be paral¬ leled by their incivility, and that at the Angel-inn, during the races, a guinea was demanded, with rigid effrontery, for a bed for a single night, in an adjacent house. —Excursions, vol. 1, p. 286. “ Calling at the Caerdiff-arms, it was our intention to stop, but finding the people uncivil, we made a precipitate retreat to a small¬ er, but much better inn.”—Gentleman’s Tour in Monmouthshire. Mr. Manby, returning from Caerphilly Castle, says, “ I hastened to place myself under the comfortable roof of mr. Thomas, at the Caerdiff-arms, an inn possessing more at¬ tention and real comfort, than any other place of public accommodation 1 ever met with.” The rev. J. Evans says, “ The inns are good, and,the inhabitants civil.’* The sewen, a delicious kind of salmon, is abundant in the Taff river, from May till September. This fish is found also in the Severn, and in many of the creeks of North Wales. The Cadlo presents a considerable portion of modern patch- work, added by the late marquis of Bute, by which it has lost much of it’s ancient baronial grandeur. In it’s repair, the el¬ egant antique style of the structure has been sacrificed, for fashionable square windows, in the lower apartments, and some gothic lines in the shape of those a- bove. “ The part of the castle which is kept in repair,” says mr. Barber, “is a single range of building; and an elegant machicolated tower, overlooking the whole, and frowning defiance on the pet¬ ty innovations beneath.” About the year 1091, Robert Fitz-Hamon, a norman chief, and kinsman of William the conqueror, made the conquest of Glamorgan, and having parcelled out various lordships and manors to 12 knights, who had accompan¬ ied him, in reward of service, he reserved as a portion for himself, the castle of Caer- diff, where he resided and held his courts CAERDIFF. 252 of justice. This keep, exclusive of the flanking towers, is of an octangular form, appearing, from the great breadth of the facets, nearly circular,or very slightly an- gulated within the walls, and presenting a clear area of about 75 feet in diameter. The summit of the mount, on which the keep stands, affords a charming view of the surrounding country. The castle contains some portraits of persons who have been it’s lords and of their relations; a suite of whole length portraits, by old masters; 2 good pictures by [Romney, painted in 1783 ; a portrait by Vandyke, another by Kneller; a sketch by Ibbetson, boys at cards by Hans Holbein, 1568 ; a crayon drawing of John, earl of Windsor, and his brother lord James Stewart, when little children. In front, is a spacious lawn, from the shaven surface of which rises an artificial mound, supporting the mouldering ruin of the ancient keep. The castle was originally built by the conquer¬ or Fitzhamon, in 1110. In a dungeon of the tower, at the entrance, Robert duke of Normandy, is said to have been confined for the long term of 26 years, after having been deprivedof his sight and inheritance, by his younger brother Henry 1. “ Prompt¬ ed by curiosity, I entered,” says the Gen¬ tleman Tourist, “this dismal prison. Having descended into the horrid cell, imagination pictured former events, and the barbarous scenes which these walls enclosed. The ghost of the departed Robert presented itself; he wore a pite¬ ous visage, seemed to muse upon his for¬ mer sufferings, and uttered these words : But that I am forbid to tell the secrets of my prison-house, 1 could a tale unfold, whose lightest words would harrow up thy soul, freeze thy young blood, make thy two eyes, like stars, start from their spheres, thy knotted and combined locks to part, and each particular hair to stand on end, like quills upon the fretful porcupine.— Shakespeare. A high rampart surrounds the place, on the top of which is a walk, offering to the inhabitants of the town an excellent prom¬ enade, commanding some rich views of the surrounding country. The high tower of the Church, crowned with 4 trans¬ parent gothic pinnacles, is of peculiar beauty, and forms a conspicuous feature in the distant views. The body of the church, however, does not correspond; it’s date is older, it’s architecture norman. Within, upon the w. side, is a monument of sir William Herbert, and sir John Her¬ bert, under a canopy of white marble, supported by 4 pillars of black, gilded and painted. The organ was built by By¬ field and Harris, and is a much better in¬ strument than is generally found in coun¬ try churches. The other parish church (forCaerdiffis divided into 2parishes) was undermined by the washing of the Taff, in the year 1607, and fell. There is a mould¬ ering ruin of a house of Gray Friars ; [see Newport,] and without the w. gate once stood a monastery of Black Friars. The town was anciently defended by a wall: the vestiges of 4 gates yet exist; also the ditch and a watch tower. A good Harbour gives some importance to the trade of this place. The spring-tides are prevented from making inroads upon the moor, between the town and the Bris¬ tol channel, by a sea-wall, and the tide- lock is the only one in the principality. Vessels of 400 tons burden come up to the town. There is a good Canal from Caerdiff, which makes this place the con¬ necting link between thegreat iron-works of Merthyr Tydvil and the english mar¬ kets. The act was obtained in 1790. It begins at Penarth, below Caerdiff, and passes Llandaff, and Pielly bridge, to Mer. thyr Tydvill, a distance of 25m. A branch connects this canal with the iron furnace s near Aberdare. The fall from Merthyr Tydville to Caerdiff is nearly 600 feet. A handsome stone Bridge, of five arches, was substituted for one of wood, in 1796, by Parry. While here, an opportunity offering, the Gentleman Tourist visited the Island of the Flat Holmes. It is situated nearly 10 m. from the sea lock of the canal, and 3 from the adjacent Steep Holmes, which is a smaller Island than the former, tho’ more conspicuous, from it’s great height above the water, and quite barren and uninhab¬ ited. Pennarth harbour was the place of embarkation for the Flat Holmes, which at low tide is an extensive sheet of mud, excepting one deep channel. The land¬ ing was near the Castle rock, a dangerous but romantic beach, so called from-it’s similarity to a castle. It is very large, and resembles Abergavenny Castle. In the centre is a bold arch, which, at high water, is covered. The hollow sound of the sea roaring through the arch, and the 254 253 CAERDIFF. waves occasionally retreating, and then forcing their way back with redoubled fu¬ ry, has an uncommon effect. At low tide the shore all round the base is dry. This island is 4 or 5 miles in circumference, the soil is good, and would, if cultivated, be very productive. A lofty light-house stands upon the highest part. From this elevation may be seen a grand panorama of the Bristol channel. There is but one house upon this island, which is inhabit¬ ed by a man and his wife, who appear to be happy. They have no taxes to pay, and live a comfortable and independent life. This man is created sole lord of the island by the corporation of Bristol, and entrusted with the care of the light-house. He has the exclusive right of fishing round the shore, and works a profitable coal¬ mine. May 1804, a most extraordi¬ nary occurrence took place in this neigh¬ bourhood. A young woman died in child¬ bed at Cadoxtone, near CaerdifF, soon af¬ ter delivery, and the infant, pining for that nourishment which nature designed for it, the mother of the deceased, up¬ wards of 72 years of age, put the child to her own breast, from which it soon drew milk, and a copious supply speedily fol¬ lowing, she continued to suckle the in¬ fant. The mother died at the age of 35. Wilson, the painter, was born at CaerdifF. On the western side of the Islet of Bar¬ ry, facing the village, (where are the re¬ mains of an ancient castle) a few scatter¬ ed stones mark the site of an old chapel; and further to the w., the remains of an¬ other are distinguishable at low water; towards the southern part of the island, upon a spot called Nell’s Point, is a fine well, to which great numbers of women resort on Holy Thursday, and having washed their eyes in the spring, each drops a pin into it. A carriage may pass over the narrow creek which separates the island from the main land, at low wa¬ ter ; but the road leads over a very rough bank of pebbles.—Hoare’s Giraldus, i, 133. The village of Boath or Rhath adjoins CaerdifF on the eastern side. Out of the ruins of this ancient town and ro¬ man station, CaerdifF was built and form¬ ed into a principal town by Jestin ad Gwrgan in 1080. On the way to Caerphilly Castle, mr. Malkin visited Cefn Mabley and Ru¬ perri. The road, as far as the river Rum- ney, is over a dingy moor; but by skirt¬ ing the river up to Cefn Mabley the scen¬ ery becomes interesting. In order to keep on the banks of the river it is neces¬ sary to cross to the Monmouthshire side upon the turnpike road, and then taking the first path to the left, cross again into Glamorganshire, at thedistanceof2miles. The house is large, standing due n., on a considerable eminence. Ruperri ap¬ pears above it as a small mansion; but when you arrive at the former, it seems almost lost. The walk from Cefn Mabley to Ruberri through the meadows is singu¬ larly beautiful. The ascent is rather steep. The mansion belongs to the Morgans of Tredegar, Machen and Llantarnam, who are descended from Cedivor Marsir, the son of Collwyn, about the period of the conquest. Some years ago it was burnt down, after which the inside was replaced in the commonest manner, but the shell was preserved, and is all that can be con¬ sidered as a specimen of Inigo Jones, by whom it was built. From Ruperri across the park the prospects are uncommonly attractive. Mr. Manby in proceeding from Caer¬ difF to Caerphilly, having passed two miles on the road he kept to the right through newly enclosed grounds, and ascended Thorn-Hill, from which place he had a beautiful view of the country towards CaerdifF, and a wide extended landscape, including an expanse of water, which en¬ riched the picture. LlandafF also con¬ tributed to embellish the scene. Proceed¬ ing onward, the road appeared almost surrounded by mountains, gladdened by partial openings, and abounding with col¬ lieries. After passing over 2 or 3 hills the ponderous remains of Caerphilly appeared in the bottom. On the road to Newport, is Rumney Bridge. The church of Rumney is a large gothic edifice, with an embattled tower. Neaily opposite to it, on the left of the road, crowning a steep bank of the river* is an old encampment, of an irregularfig- ure, with a triangular outwork ; and a little further occurs another of a poly- hedrous form. Advancing, the elevated mansion and extensive woods of Ruperri an elegant seat of a branch of the Morgan family, appears beneath the brow of some hills, bordering the vale of Caerphilly } and on a small hill below stands Cefn Mab. <755 CAERDIFF. 256 ley, an ancient seat of the Kemy family. At the rural little village of St. Mellons, the old and new roads to Newport unite. The latter is lower and shorter, which is traced on a range of eminences skirting Wentloog level, an extensive fertile plain reclaimed from the sea, and extending from the Rumney to the Usk river, is relieved by the intersections of hedges, and a sprinkling of white cottages; among which the towers of St. Brides, Marshfield and Petterston churches, rise conspicu¬ ously. At Castletown there was once a castle, the site of it’s citadel and chapel only remains, the former is enclosed in a garden, and the latter is converted into a barn. Gxecrn-y-clcppa park next occurs, which coutains a ruin nearly hidden in a thicket, once the mansion of Ivor-hael (the generous), pride of bardic song, who flourished in the beginning of the 14th century, Tredegar Park is next entered, which is a very ancient seat of the Mor¬ gan family. The park is laid out in the obsolete style of groves and avenues, yet it’s natural beauties are considerable. Forest trees of remarkable size and beau¬ ty, and the picturesque course of the rap¬ id Ebwy, are striking features in the scen¬ ery. The mansion is a huge quadrangu¬ lar building, with a high shelving roof, in which are 2 or 3 tiers of windows, re¬ sembling the weighing house at Amster¬ dam, built in the reign of Charles 2. The collection of pictures is numerous, but few of them are intrinsically valuable. The offices are extensive, among which are some remains of the ancient castellat¬ ed mansion described by Leland as a “ very fair place of stone.”—J. T. Bar¬ ber. The following route along the coast to Bridgend was taken by mr. Evans- Three miles from Caerdiff is the roman station of Cacron, called Cary, or Trev Iw- bwb, latinized by Ptolemy into Jupupania. The land suddenly rises to the s., and on an eminence stands the small church. Beneath this are various fortifications, consisting of valla and fossa, which form the porta documanus to the w., and the praetorium still visible at the e. end of the camp, are evidently roman; several small¬ er works appear also in the vicinity. This was the tibia amne of Richard’s 11 tli Iter, and the road hence to Bovium may be traced in this direction, passing the river Elay by a ford, still retaining the name of Rhyd Sarn, or the ford of a roman road. Obtaining the high land of St. Leth- ian Down, the views were exceedingly fine, and crossing it to the s. a delightful valley occurs, called Dyren; where grow Sison verticillatum and Empetrum ni¬ grum, in abundance, [see Cowbridge.] The vale opens into a sandy sestuary, which expands to the right and left, and embraces the small island of Barry, (from Baruc, a hermit who resided and was bur¬ ied here,) which is about l^m. in circum¬ ference, and nearly opposite to Watchet, on the coast of Somerset. Rabbits consti¬ tute the principal produce of the farm, which lets for 80/. per annum, and con¬ tains 300 acres of land. A chapel dedi¬ cated to this saint was standing in the time of Leland; but there is now no building except a farm-house, fitted up with lodg¬ ings for those desirous of a retired situa¬ tion for sea-bathing. Ascending the hill from Barry, ruins of it’s castle is passed, consisting of a few walls, included in a barn; and an arched gateway. Hence mr. Evans descended into a “lovely cvvm, through which flowed a crystal stream.” Passing over some rising ground, he found himself in another, through which also a stream glided. One extremity of this vale is lost in the distant hills, and the other opens to the sea. These vales are truly sylvan and romantic. At Penmarc, on the verge of a deep ravine, stands the ruins of it’s castle. Fitzhamon gave this with the manor, to one of his knights, named Gilbert Humphrcville. The church is a good structure. Half a m. to the w. stands the Castle of Fonmore, (vulgarly pro¬ nounced Fulmun, situated upon the brink of another ravine ; through which runs a stream called Cenfon. It is the residence of Robert Jones, esq. This castle has been modernised, it's windows sashed, and it’s rooms decorated, [see Cowbridge.] At a short distance, upon the coast, jets a foreland called Brealc-sea-point, often fatal to mariners. Indeed this coast is the ter¬ ror of those who navigate the Bristol chan¬ nel. Sunk rocks, and dangerous shoals lie in every direction. Numerous vessels are wrecked on this insidious shore, and the cruelties exercised by the inhabitants of this coast towards those children of misfortune, surpasses the ruthless storm or raging ocean. Humanity shudders at 257 CAERDIFF. CAERGWRLE. 258 the account given by mr. Evans, of the rapine and cruelty of those human vul¬ tures called to reckert. He asserts that their aim is frequently to murder those on board, that there may be no surviving ev¬ idence against them. They strip even Children and females, when dead, cut off their fingers, and tear their ears for the sake of their clothes and jewels! Is there no sheriff or constable, in this Christian coast ? we exclaim; does justice sleep at Fonmoie ? The village of Boverton is considered by Camden, the Boviumof An¬ toninus. At a short distance is the rem¬ nant of a roman road, which appears again on Newton Down, in a line to Neath. This place is in the parish of Llan Ilted ; or, as it is usually called Llantwit Major. On his route to Llandaff, mr. Skrine proceeded along the banks of the Taff, towards the n., the mountains gradually closing on each side of the river, forming a majestic portal of rock and wood, on one promontory of which appeared the ruin of Castle Coch, originally built to de¬ fend the pass; beyond, the valley opens in romantic beauty. Mr. Manby passed over the bridge, and took the first turn¬ ing on the r. A forsaken mansion glooms on this side, while on the 1., patches of firs are tastefully disposed. To Merthyr Tydvil, pass the While Friars, on the 1. to Mindeau and Llyslaly- bont, l£m., (1 m. further, leave a road to Caerphilly, and Caerdiff-hcath, and the race-course on the r.) Gabalfa, Herbert Hurst, esq., fm. to the 1. with Llandaff, beyond. Whitchurch, 3m. 3t". (On the 1. upon the opposite side of the Taff river, is Melin Griffith, Tin and Iron-works, J. Narford esq., (lm. beyond, on the r. Green Meadow, Wm. Lewis, esq., and further, Castle coch. On the 1. opposite, is the lower Garth Hilt, with Pentirch forge, and Coalpits. Soon after succeeds on the same side. Great Garth Hill.) Cross the CaerdiffCanal to Porto Bello turnpike-bar, 2m. 5f. (On the r. Duffrin ftrood , and Craig yr Alll.) Duffrin leha, ^m. (On the r. Cefn yr Hafod, on the 1. Willow Ford, and Llantwitfardre and a Meeting-house,) Upper-Boat, lm., Duffrin Taff, -jm. (On he t.Eglwysilan.) Cross the Caerdiff Ca- tal, to the Bridgwater’s arms, 3m. If. On the 1. is Pont y prydd.) Continue •villi the Taff upon the 1., to the Quaker’s 'aid, 5m. 3f., and Black Brook, % m, Qn 10 the r. Cefn Forest, Cefn isha, Pen yr inn and Cefn Merthyr, to Plymouth Furnace, 6m. Merthyr Tydfil, 1 m. To Cowbridce, cross the Taff, (the course of which river on the r. is from Merthyr Tydfil on the 1. to the Bristol Channel,) on the r.theroad to Llantrissant, 10§m.; on the 1. to Dinas Powis, 4 miles; 1 m. from Caerdiff, on the r. is Llandaff. Courl, the residence of col. Wood; cross the Ely at Ely Bridge, 2m. the village of St. Nicholas, and it’s Church, are 4m. fur¬ ther ; within ^m. of this place on the r. is Coedrigland, the residence of mrs. Wood- Passing St. Nicholas, on the 1. is Duffryn House, [see Cowbridge] Benvilslone is I mile beyond ; on the r. is Cotterill, miss Gwynnett; and alittle further on the r- is Llantrilhyd Park, sir John Aubrey, bart. Cowbridge is 4m. from Benvilston ; ^m. previous to the approach, is Penllyne Cas-, tie, the property of miss Gwynnett. Avery pleasing digression maybe made from Caerdiffto the singularly picturesque bridge over the river Taff, called Pont y Prydd; andjhenceto the stately ruins of Caerphilly Castle ; Llandaff, and to the iron-works at Merthyr Tydfil, 24 miles. To Newport, 12 miles, Darber. — Caerphilly Castle, 7 miles, Malkin; Manby. — Llandaff, 3 miles, Barber; Donovan; Evans j Wyndham; Skrine. Along the Coast to Dunraven,26 miles, Evans. To Cowbridge, 12§ miles, Warner. — Merthyr Tydvil, 24 miles. — To Pont y Prydd, 11 miles. //////// rr yyy/ /yyyyy v/yy From Wrexham, 12m. Bingley. - Mold, 5m. Pennant. CAERGWRLE, or Caer-gawr Lie, (the camp of the gigantic legion) in Flintshire, is situated upon the banks of theriver Alyn, It has evidently been a roman station, for a Hypocaust or sudatory, a kind of va¬ pour bath, was discovered by a gardener while digging. “ It was five ells long, four broad, and about half an ell high ; en¬ compassed with walls, hewn out of the live rock. The floor was of brick set in mortar; the roof was supported with brick pillars; and consisted of polished tiles, which at several places were per¬ forated : on these were laid certain brick tubes, which carried off the force of the heat.” Gibson, ii, 828. The Romans had various baths, as Balnea, Ther¬ ms;, Hypocausta, Stc. Some of the tiles 259 CAERGWRLE. CAERLEON. ?69 of the hypocaust were inscribed “ Le- gio XX,” or the 20th legion, which was long stationed at Chester. Large beds of iron scoria, have also been discov¬ ered near Cacr Estyn, the supposed re¬ mains of roman smelting works ; and the vestiges of 2 roads, one in a direction to Hawarden, and the other tending towards Mold, which are traceable in several plac¬ es. Mr. Pennant says the road is very promjnant in the fields on this side Plas Teg. It apppears from these circumstanc¬ es, thefore that Caergwrle was an outpost to the grand station Deva, or Chester. This situation was subsequently occupied by the britons, who built a castle upon the summit of a high rock, at a little distance. The history of this castle is clouded by uncertainty. In the reign of Owen Gwynedd, it formed part of the posses¬ sions of Griffydd Maelor. Edward the first made a grant of it to prince Da¬ vid. It was afterwards retaken and the king gave it to his consort Eleanor, who rested here on her journey to Caernarvon, the place of her accouchement, from this circumstance the name was changed to Queen Hope. While the king and queen were here this fortress was set on fire, and the interior of the structure consum¬ ed. The castle at present exhibits a most picturesque ruin, consistingofa mutilated circular tower, and some fragments of walls. It does not appear to have ever been a large structure, yet the site was ■uncommonly favourable. Aided by the bitish post Caer Estyn stationed upon the opposite elevation, foriped of ditch and Tampart, the castle was calculated to de¬ fend thispass. The valley here narrows so as to leave little more space than is suffi¬ cient for the Alyn to pass through it’s ro¬ mantic dingles. The country, however, o- pens in the distant vale, and the river ex¬ pands at the village of Gresford. Nearly thewhole of this rockis composed of Bres¬ cia, or that mixed kind of grit-stone so coarse in it’s texture, as to bear the appear¬ ance of small pebbles imbedded in mortar. It has been applied to the purpose of form¬ ing mill-stones, but they are inferior to french-burs. The surrounding hills consist of limestone ; which is burnt upon the spot and mostly sold into Cheshire. In the overlay of loose earth are numer¬ ous organic bodies called entrochi and as- (i piles. A singular kind has been found here, with protuberant joints, conjectured to have been parts of the species called Asterias arborescens, arborescent sea star; the branches of which resemble these substances, the shape being cylin- drical made up of several articulations. On the demesne of Rhyddyn almost close to the river Alyn are two springs strongly impregnated with muriate of soda, resem¬ bling the celebrated fountain at Barrow- dale ncarKeswick in Cumberland. These were formerly much frequented by scor¬ butic patients. The dose was from 1 to 2 quarts in a day. To increase the strength, people boiled the water till half was wasted by evaporation, the ef¬ fect was then purging, acting as a power¬ ful cathartic, producing nausea. In small doses they operate diuretically. West of the Castle, upon a lofty hill, is Bryn Yorkyn, the paternal seat of Ellis Yonge, esq. adescendent of Tudor Trevor. The, form of the house is quadrangular, with a square wing at each corner, 5 stories high, erected in 1610. The village and church of Hope, lie about lm. from the Castle, upon the n. side of the stream. About Caergwrle castle grow Planta- gomaritima; Fumariaclaviculata, Astra¬ galus hypoglottis, Carduus marianus. To Mold, 5m. Bingley. — Hope, lm. Pennant. Back from Usk, 7|m. Manby. From Newport Mon. 3m. Coxe; Barber. - Penliow, 7m. Donovan. - Caerwent, 9in. Wyndham; Evans. - Pont y Pool, 8m. Skrine. - Pencoed Castle, 41m. G. W. Manby. CAERLEON, in Monmouthshire, was the Isca Silurum of Antoninus, where the invincible second Augustan legion was for years in garrison, the principal roman town in the county of the silures, called by G'traldus, Urbs Legionum; by others Isca Colonia, and Isca Augusta; some say the present name is from Lleon, an ancient british king, who founded it. Mr. Owen, author of the welsh dictiona¬ ry says, it is derived from it’s situation near 2 powerful streams, Caerllion, the city of waters. Caerleon was the cap¬ ital of 15 important stations in Siluria. It was here that the Prtetor resided, and had his Palatium or Domus Palatina; here the eagle was deposited, here were held the principal seats of justice, and the im- 2<51 CAERLEON. 262 perial edicts promulgated. This misera- fortunes, was settled in it, by a grant from able descendant of that celebrated city is seated upon rising ground, in a deep bottom, surrounded by lofty verdant hills. The river Usk at this place assumes con¬ siderable importance. Caerleon seems to have been, according to Giraldus, in a declining state, as far back as the 14th Century, who remarks that “ many re¬ mains of it’s former magnificence are still visible. Splendid palaces, which once emulated with their gilded roofs, the grandeur of Rome, for it was originally built by the roman princes, and adorned with stately edifices. A gigantic tower, numerous baths, ruins of a temple and a theatre, the walls of which are partly standing. Here we still see, within and without the walls, subterraneous build¬ ings, aqueducts, vaulted caverns, and stoves so excellently contrived as to con¬ vey their heat through secret and imper¬ ceptible pores.” Page 107, cd. 1585. Mr. Barber says, that the vestiges of it’s former magnificence, tobe seen, mustnow be diligently sought after. Statues, altars, Columns, friezes,sarcophagi,brass and sil¬ ver coins of Constantine and Valentinian; intaglios, fibulae, rings, seals, and frag¬ ments of lamps, have been discovered from time to time, during several ages; but they have been carried off by collect¬ ors, or applied to domestic purposes by the unlettered. The Castle stood between the s. side of the roman wall and the riv¬ er ; a circular tower near the Hanbury- arms, marks one termination and the oth¬ er may be found in 2 round bastion towers upon the margin of the Usk. At a little distance, upon the opposite side of the toad, is a high artificial mound, about 300 yards in circumference, the site of the Citadel described by Giraldus as gigantic. From the top of this eminence, the wild and beautiful environs of Caerleon ate seen to the greatest advantage The principal objects are the town, gently ris¬ ing at the extremity of an oval vale; the bridge, supported by lofty and slender piles; the rapid Usk, flowing through fer¬ tile meadows; the sloping hills, richly clothed with wood; and Christchurch, towering like a cathedral, upon the brow of an overhanging eminence. As a rcsi- i dence of several welsh chieftains, Jor- uerth seems to have been the fiercest as sail- ■ ant of this castle, and after a variety of Henry 2. But in 11G9 when Henry was on his journey to Scotland, he called at Caerleon, and being dissatisfied with Jor- werth’s conduct, turned him out. Jor- werth’s sons long contended for the pos¬ session. On the subjection of Wales to Edward the first, the castle and domains were restored to their original proprie¬ tors, the family of Clare. Edward the fourth, and Richard 3, were afterwards possessors. The Morgan family of Llan- tarnam, afterwards became their owners, and have been purchased from their de¬ scendants by mr. Blannin. In Bridge- street are the remains of a portal, which probably formed an entrance to the cas¬ tle. It consists of a delapidated tower, with a grove for a portcullis : at the time of mr. Cox’s visit, this portal was taking down. The house of miss Morgan was once a Cistercian Abbey, but has been new-faced with stones collected from the ruins of Caerleon. Among mr. Manby’s remarks on this place, he says, “ I cannot take my leave of Caerleon without an of¬ fer of thanks to miss Morgan, not on¬ ly for her obliging affability in allowing me to inspect those curiosites which are in her possession, but for her laudable pursuit in collecting the antiquities of a place once celebrated in the annals of fame; a pursuit not ofily influenced by her general wish of doing good, but by an elegant refinement of literary taste. In her collection are coins of Julia Augusta, Vespasian, Antonius Pius, Hadrian, Net- va, Plautilla, Claudius, Faustina, Con¬ stantine, Constantius, Carausias, Magnen- tius, Carinus, and Salustius; with fibulae crosses, lamps, jasper, terressa, &c.” Mr. Nichols of Caerleon had in his pos¬ session a roman ring, remaining in it’s o- riginal setting of gold. In the wall of a Bathing-house, belonging to - Butler, esq, is a very anciently inscribed stone. Mr. D. Williams informs us that a cabinet was formed by mr. George Hanbury, and the rev.-Burgh, which included several valuable articles collect¬ ed from this place. Detached from the spot they however cease to interest. A little museum at Caerleon composed wholly of the relics of it’s ancient mag¬ nificence, would furnish new attractions to visitors, and rescue these remains from oblivion. The most perfect 263 CAERLEON. 264 part among the extremities of this an- cient city is in Round Table Field, where the original boundary is apparent. The wall here is about 14 feet in height; and 12 in thickness, enclosing a space of 530 yards, by 460, the longest sides pointing to the s-e. Contiguous to the enclosed ground, but without the walls, and ad¬ joining to the premises of miss Morgan, is the vestage of a roman amphitheatre commonly called Arthur's Round Table. It is an oval concavity, 74 yards by 64, and 6 deep ; in which are ranges of stone seats, now covered with earth and ver¬ dure. It has been supposed the site of a magnificent temple for worshipping the Ephesian goddess; some have thought it an amphitheatre for bull-baiting, or for gladiators; and others have termed it a cockpit. At Caerleon, says David Wil¬ liams, almost every thing wears the dis¬ tressing form of conjecture, and under this circumstance he recommends the reader of his History of Monmouthshire to act like himself, mount the Arx Specu- latoria and view the prospect. His imag¬ ination, shaking off all learned dust, and his eyes averted from human splendors, produced by rapine, violence, and tyran¬ ny, blackened by effusions of human blood, will repose upon the tranquil bo¬ som of the Severn, which opens a scene magnificent in extent, and graceful in it’s outlines, diffusing the sensations of soothing mildness, and animation. What a contrast ! emblems of the attrocious deeds of men, and the unceasing splen¬ dour of divine beneficence !” “ The flourishing condition of Caerleon,” re¬ marks mr. Donovan, “ at some remote period of time is so well attested by the numerous memorials of it’s humbled grandeur, at this day visible, that it would be absurd to dispute the facts; and scep¬ ticism the most unpardonable to distrust entirely the evidence of those, who, but a few centuries ago, saw much more of these remains, than are at present to be observed. Such was the whole extent, according to tradition, of this city, that the suburbs on both sides of the river, covered a tract of country 9 miles in cir¬ cumference, extending from the present town as far as Christ’s-church and St. Juli¬ an, in a s. and w. direction. Large foun¬ dations have been discovered in the ele¬ vated grounds to the n. and n-w. of the walls, particularly beyond the skirts of Goldcroft common. At present, this ro¬ man british city is reduced, with respect to it’s population to the size of a village, the number of inhabitants amounting on¬ ly to 667, including those of the village of Ultra Ponlem, upon the other side of the river ; the number of houses in 1801, amounted to 148. The present town lies more to the e. than the ancient Isca Silu. rum. The Market-house of Caerleon is supported by 4 massive tuscan pillars, in which appear several roman vestiges. The most respectable building in the place is a Charity-school, for maintaining 30 poor boys, and 20 girls, to the age of 14, founded by Charles Williams, esq., a native of the town. The wooden Bridge o- ver the Usk is remarkable for it’s con¬ struction, which is similar to that erected by Cxsar over the Rhine, as described in his commentaries, of which Stukeley has given a plan in the 2d vol. of his “ Itiner- arium Curiosum.” The tide was never known to rise above the bridge, as some have asserted. Close to the s. extremi¬ ty of the bridge, are the ruins of an an¬ cient fort, intended for the purpose of guarding the passage over the river. Grose has given an engraving of it as it appeared in 1778. The Tin Works belonging to mr. Butler, in the vicinity of this place are capable of manufacturing annually from 14,000 to 20,000 boxes of tin plates, containing each from 200 to 300 plates. Iron plates are here rolled, and iron rods, shop bolts, and square bars are made. The machinery of the mill is wholly iron. Mr. Manby has mentioned Jones, the par¬ ish clerk as an assiduous and loquacious guide to the fragments which are most striking round this place. In this neighbourhood are several En¬ campments, as that of the Lodge, occupy¬ ing a hill in the park of Llanlarnam, about lm. n-w. of Caerleon ; that of Pejiros a short distance to the l.of the road to Usk ; that ofMayndee, near Christ-cliurch and that in the wood of St. Julian’s towards New¬ port. The most remarkable of these is the encampment of the Lodge anciently called Bellingstocke, supposed by Harris to have been the sestiva or summer camp of the 2d. legion. Itisofaneliptieal shape, the dimensions large, and surrounded with double ramparts, except to the s-w, where there is a quadruple line of ram- M 265 CAERLEON. 266 parts and ditches. The entrenchments in some places are not less than 30 feet in depth. The entrance is to the w. and defended by a tumulus, 12 yards high, placed in the inner rampart. It bears more the appearance of a british than of a roman encampment, and probably was the site of the british town on the arri¬ val of the romans. This conjecture is strengthened by the authority of an an¬ cient chronicle in the Myvyrian Archae¬ ology of Wales, called “ Brut Breninod ynys Prydain,” communicated to mr. Cox, by mr. Owen. “ Bell the son of Dyvnwal Moel Mud, made a city upon the banks of the river Wysg, and he cal¬ led it Caer Llion on Wysg; and that was anciently the principal town in the i- sland.” Mr. Cox, with the assistance of mr. Ev¬ ans, traced the form and size of this an¬ cient city. The shape appeared to be ob¬ long, inclining to a square ; 3 of the sides are straight, and the 4th, like the n. wall of Caerwent, curvilinear, inclosing acir- cumfercnee of about 1800 yards ; th^ cor¬ ners are gently rounded. This survey was commenced at the s. angle, near the extremity of the Round Table Field, where the walls exhibit the most striking remains of their ancient structure ; their present elevation is in no place more than 14 feet, their greatest thickness 11 and 12. The facings that remain arc of hewn grit stone. Near this angle the mortar is tem¬ pered with pounded brick, particles of which chequer the surface. The s-w. side passes the Round Table, or Amphi¬ theatre, parallel to the Usk, and skirts the lawn of the Abbey, part of which has been rebuilt. At the n. extremity of the Round Table Field, it is intersected by the Broad-way, which from it's straitness and uniform breadth, appears to have been a street leading from the fortress to the meads upon the banks of the river. Here was probably a gateway, which seems to be marked by the elevations at each end of the breach. In crossing the stile upon the other side of the Broad-way, a Roman Terminus, was pointed out to mr. Cox, used as one of the cap-stones, and bearing the inscription termin'. Hence the line of the wall re-appears, and continues a- lotig the Bear-house field, where a foss is quite plain, but only detached masses of wall, fringed with shrubs,are visible. At the w. angle, it turns along the side of the Malpas road, to the remains of a gate¬ way, leading into Goldcroft common, and proceeds in a direct line, occupied by several cottages and gardens, where the foss is only visible, to the turnpike, near the junction of the Usk and Pont y Pool roads. At the n. angle, the wall forms part of the stable of a public-house, called the New-Inn, trends through gar¬ dens, orchards, and tenements, is occa¬ sionally lost in the streets and lanes, be¬ comes again conspicuous in the castle- yard, and terminates in the east angle, which projects over the rail road, near the foss of the castle. The line of wall from this point is culvilinear. It passes through the precincts, and skirts the foss of the castle; is intersected by Bridge- street, near a gate which has been recent¬ ly taken down ; forms the foundation of the gable end of a house, occupied by mr. Andrew Butler; passes through his garden ; is lost in a narrow lane leading to the quay, and reappears in the adjoin¬ ing field, gradually rising in height, till it ends in the s. angle. It appears from this survey, that the foss is only visible upon part of the w. and the whole of the n. side. The 4 principal gates seem to have been placed in the middle of the 4 sides. From Caerleon, a walk leads through hanging woods, and over fertile meadows to St. Julian’s, a place remarkable as hav¬ ing been the residence of the celebrated lord Herbert of Cherbury. It is situated nearly midway between Caerleon and Newport, upon the banks of the Usk. The building, now converted into a farm¬ house, has been reduced from it’s origi¬ nal size; part of the s. front has been modernized, part remains in it’s former state, and the whole presents a motley combination. The n. front has been per¬ mitted to retain it’s antique appearance, and forms, with a wooded eminence, a picturesque object. The inside contains some remains of former magnificence, particularly in the stair-case, and several gothic doorways. Near the house is an old barn of small dimensions, once part of the Chapel of St. Julius. In the s. wall, are the remains of an arched entrance, which is now half filled up. The e. and w. win¬ dows may be traced, and a small gothic doorway to the w. Edward Herbert, first lord Herbert of Cherbury, was the 4th 267 CAERLEON. 268 male ill lineal descent from sir Richard Herbert, of Coldbrook, knight. The es¬ tate and mansion of Coldbrook were inher¬ ited by sir William Herbert, the eldest son, and continued in possession by his line- Sir Richard Herbert, second son, was steward of the lordships and marches of N. Wales, and seated at Montgomery cas¬ tle, where his descendants principally re¬ sided. His great grandson, who resided at St. Julian’s, was son of Richard Herbert and Magdalen Newport, of High-Arkall, in Shropshire ; born in 1581, at Eyton, in the same county. He contracted marriage with the heiress of St. Julian’s, which procured him that estate. She was daugh¬ ter of sir Wm. Herbert, of St Julian’s. He had studied at Oxford before his mar¬ riage, and returned to continue there. He was also very assiduous in learning all bodily exercises, except dancing, for which he says he could not find leisure, “ employing his mind always in acquir¬ ing some art or science more useful.” At 18, he quitted Oxford, and either re¬ sided with his mother in London, or at Montgomery castle, till he attained the age of 21. In 1608, his wife and he disagree¬ ing, he quitted her, and visited foreign courts, traversing France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy. He died in his house in Queen-street, London, August 2, 1648, aged 67, and was buried in the chancel of St. Giles’s, in the fields. His grave was covered with a flat marble slab, containing the following inscription, writ- by himself. “ Huic inhumatur corpus Edvardi Herbert equitis Balnei, baronis de Cherbury et Castle Island, auctoris li- ] bri, cui titulus est, De Veritate. Reddor ut herbae, vicesimo die Augusti, anno Domini 1648.” The estate of St. Julians, and the title of baron Herbert of Cherbu¬ ry continued in his descendants, till the extinction of the male line, by the death of his grandson Henry, who dying without issue, left his estate to his nephew, Fran¬ cis Herbert, son of his sister Florentia, by Richard Herbert of Oakley-park. The estate was inherited by his son, Henry Arthur Herbert, created baron Herbert of Cherbury, in 1743. Having espoused Barbara, niece and heiress to William Her¬ bert, the last marquis of Powis, he was in 1748, raised to the earldom of Powis. The estate of St. Julians was purchased from the late earl, by mr. Van, of Llanvvern; it came with other estates, to his daughter Katherine, wife of sir Robert Salusbury, and was afterwards sold to mr. Hunter. In the wood of St. Julians, is a camp, probably formed by the saxon Harold, to command the river, or occupied by the Anglo-normans who frequently beseiged Caerleon. From Caerleon mr. Cox made an Excur¬ sion to Llantar?iam-House, once a seat of a considerable branch of the Morgan fam¬ ily. It is situated near the high-road from Newport to Pont y pool, about 2m. from Caerleon. The site of the house was a rich cistertian Abbey of 6 monks. In the reign of Elizabeth, the abbey became the property of the Morgans, who resided at Cilsant, now called Pentre bach, 2m. from Llantarnam. The present mansion ap¬ pears to have been finished in the time of queen Elizabeth, from the old materials of the abbey. The only remains of the ancient structure, are the stone cells, con¬ verted into stables, the walls of the gar¬ den, a beautiful gateway, which is still called Magna Porta. A porch within this gateway, bears the date of 1588, with the Morgan arms in stone. The House is large, antiquated, damp, dreary, and un¬ tenanted. The hall contains several whole length portraits of our kings and queens, and many family portraits are scattered about the rooms. The Gardens occupy a flat, surrounded by high and massive walls. The Park is extensive and diversified, swelling into gentle un¬ dulations of rich pasture, and interspersed with thick plantations, and dark avenues. The vale is watered by the rapid torrent which descends from the hills of Pont y Pool, called Avon Llwyd, or grey river, but originally Torfaen, (the breaker of stones). The Church,seated not far from the banks of this torrent, is called, from it’s posi¬ tion, Llan Torfaen, corrupted into Llan¬ tarnam. A Chapel upon the n. side of the church, is the cemetery of this branch of the Morgans. On the failure of the male line, this estate was bequeathed jointly between 2 daughters. It belongs to their descendants Edmund Blewit, esq. of Saltford, and Charles Fettiplace, esq., of Swinebrook, in Oxfordshire. Dissatis¬ fied with a joint possession, they let it re. main untenanted. On his journey to Ustt, mr. Cox passed along the upper road which crosses the 270 269 CAERLEON. Avon Ltvyd, over Pont Saturn, leaving Penros-House, and encampment at a little distance upon the 1. It is environed only by a single rampart, and the form is near¬ ly square, with 5 bastions. This may have been a roman camp, altered and strengthened. Gently ascend for three m. to the top of an eminence, which over¬ looks on one side, the rich groves of Llan- tarnam park, and on the other, the beau¬ tiful vale, watered by the Usk, and bound¬ ed by the wooded acclivities of Kemeys and Bcrtholly. The distant country is broken into fine inequalities of hill and dale, till the view is closed by the dusky mass of mountains which overhang Aber¬ gavenny. Descend to Llangibby, which is so called from the Church dedicated to St. Cibby. To the w. of the village, upon a gentle slope, and under the ruins of an old castle, is situated Llangibby-house, be¬ longing to the ancient family of Williams. The architecture is attributed to Inigo Jones. The view from the house is pe¬ culiarly striking; the Usk sweeps along a rich and narrow vale, and the fine cur¬ vature of the stream is here presented with great effect. From it’s banks rise the bold heights of the long ridge which joins Pencamawr, clothed from the bot¬ tom to the top with wood, and the hang¬ ing groves of Bcrtholly place. Ascend to the brow of the hill, upon which stands the ruins of Llangibby castle, surrounded by an extensive tract of wood. The re¬ mains consist only of a square tower, much dilapidated, the walls of some a- partments with springing columns, and part of the.roof which they supported. The outer walls may be traced, enclosed in a large area. It’s architecture indicates that it was built by the norman chieftains. The finest view of these ruins, is to the from a paddock at the foot of the hill. This castle was anciently called Trergreg or Traygruck, formerly in the possession of the earls of Gloucester, of the line of Plate. It is now possessed by a descend¬ ed of the'Williams family. About lm. from Llangibby, is an agreeable prospect of the bridge, church, and the castle of Usk. Descend to the church of Llanbacl- doc, pass along a road which occupies the whole space between the river and a yvooded precipice, and cross over a stone bridge to the town of Usk. This is the f.ommon road betvyeen Caerleon and Usk for carriages, but a more level, tho’ more circuitous and rugged route, leads upon 1. bank of the river. Mr. Cox details this track as follows. Cross the bridge at Caerleon through the village Ultra Pontem, to the turnpike-gate leading to Newport, turn at right angles into the Usk road, and at a little distance pass a hollow way, called the old Chepstow hill road, which was formerly the common passage to Caerwent, and supposed to run in the direction of the Julia Strata. Con¬ tinue along a natural terrace, above the rich marshy plain watered by the Usk, and at the foot of Kemey’% cliff, under the chain of encampments which occupy the summit of the ridge. In this route occur 2 farm houses, called Little and Great Bullmoor. About 1778 was discovered here'the massive foundation of an im¬ mense building, consisting of hewn stones, among which was found in an arched recess, a statue in a sitting posture, resembling an imperator. The road pas¬ ses through the small village of Korneys. The church is a low' and rude building in the midst of a field, the mansion is sit¬ uated at the bottom of the hanging woods, and under the summer-house called Polly. It is an ancient seat belonging the Kem¬ eys family, the last of which family sold it to Laurence Lord, esq., of Banbury, Oxfordshire. A fine gothic portal leads into the court yard, and over a dooru ay is a carved figure, holding an hour-glass. Underneath is, “ Onys chwyth awel fe derfyn amfer.” (Time passes like the breathing gale.) The summer-house was erected by order of George Kemeys. Boasting one day to his uncle, that not less than eleven counties could be seen from this building, the uncle gravely re¬ plied, “ I lament, nephew, that thou hast exhibited thy folly to so many counties.” Hence it was nick-named Kcmey's-Folly. Continue under the groves of Bertholly, till the road be left to cross the Usk, ov¬ er a handsome stone bridge, built by the architect of Pont y Pridd. The tide flows to this place. From the bridge ascend to Treilonnoc Church for the sake of exam¬ ining a roman inscription affixed to the in¬ side of the n. wall, found 3 feet deep in the ground, to the memory of Julius Ju- lianus, a soldier of the second augustan legion. “ diis manibus julius julia ; NUS MILES LEGIOHIS SECUND.E AUv.psl.'W CAERLEON. CAERMARTHEN. 272 STIPENDIORUM OCTODECIM ARMOREM «U ADRACINTA HIC SITUS EST CURA AGENT- e amanda coNjuGE.” Recrossing the bridge, pass through Llantrhsant, where the church is a large handsome gothic building. Turning to the n-e., soon en¬ ter the turnpike from Usk to the New Passage. The road next winds round a hill to Llanllowel a small village, a place which once gave title to the lords of Llan¬ llowel. The church stands close to the high-road, and is a very ancient and sim¬ ple piece of architecture. Just beyond the village the road crosses the brook Ol¬ wy, and continues not far from the 1. bank of the Usk ; in some places it hangs over the stream, and in others has been wash¬ ed away by the torrent. Upon the op¬ posite bank of the Usk, the country rises in regular gradations, to the summit of the elevated ridge on which the upper road is carried, the woods and ruins of Ltangibby Castle, crowning the eminence. From the road stretches a rich and exten- tensive plain, bounded by distant hills, and before us the church and town of Usk terminate the view. This plain, cal¬ led the vale of the Usk , is the largest tract of level ground in the inland parts of the county ; it extends to w. of the Town, as far as Llandenny, along the lands water¬ ed by the Olwy; and to the s. between the Usk and the elevated ground beyond Llantrissant, almost to New Bridge; a rich and fertile district, but exposed to the inundations of the Usk and Olwy. According to mr. Cox, there is a distinc¬ tion necessary to be made between this vale and another called the Vale of Usk, which stretches from beyond Abergaven¬ ny, along both sides of the river, as far as Llanvair Church, at the foot of Clytha hills. On sallying out for Newport, mr. Ev- and ascended the Gam, whence he says, nearly the whole county of Monmouth lay stretched like a map. Between the elevation of the Gam and Penca-mawb, in a most romantic bottom, flows the Usk, which, rising near Trecastle, falls into the sea near Gold-cliff. Ascending the table land to the left, on the western side, the view is circumscribed by the Pont y pool Hills, terminating in the Blorenge, Sky- ryd vawr, Tom Balan, the Sugar Loaf, and Peny vale. To the n-e. are the heights of the Devaudon and Chepstow Park, with the intermediate vales. To the e., the moor of Caldecot, the Severn, the Denny, King Road, Bristol Channel, the steep and flat Holmes, the shores of Som¬ erset, and Devon, stretch to the s. On a part of this ridge, everlooking the ele¬ gant mansion of sir Robert Salisbury# stands the elegant mansion of sir Robert [see Newport] whence the traveller passes down a steep hill for two miles. The entrance into Newport on this side is over a stone bridge of 5 arches, com¬ pleted in 1800, by David Edwards and his 2 sons, descendents of the architect of Pont y Pridd; it was built by contract foe 10,165f. The ruins of Newport may be seen hence. Mr. Warner visited Newchurch on his approach to Caerleon 5 and, on quitting the latter, passed by a ! foot road over the fields, which, he says# presents a variety of rich views. ToUsk,7§ miles,Coxe; Barber; G.W.Manby.' — Newport,a miles, Donovan ; Evans; Wynd- ham ; Skrine; .Warner, on his return from the Usk. From Cidwelly, 10 miles, Barber. -Llanstephan, 7 miles, Malkin; Evans. -Swansea, 26 miles, Donovan. -Tenby, 22 miles, Warner. -I.landilo vawr, 15] miles, Wyndham. - Newcastle, 20 miles, Lipscomb. CAERMARTHEN, is one of the most wealthy and polite towns in Wales, ris¬ ing above the fine river Towy, and com¬ mands a full view of one of the most beautiful vales in the principality. It was the Kaervyrdhin of the britons, the Mu. ridunium of Ptolemy, and the Muriduni. um of Antoninus. The ancient britons accounted it the capital of all Wales: here they held their parliaments, or as¬ semblies of wise men, and here fixed their chancery and exchequer. When the normans overran Wales, this town felt severely the miseries of war, being often besciged, and twice burnt by the welsh princes; Gilbert, earl of Clare, however, at length fixed his power here beyond the reach of their attempts. Most of the streets are very steep, and irregu¬ larly built; yet there are many good pri¬ vate houses, belonging to the neighbour¬ ing gentry, who resort hither in the win¬ ter months. A handsome Town-hall of free stone, with collonades of the ionic order; and a good Market-house, do credit 274 273 CAERMARTHEN, to the public spirit of the town. There is a Free Grammar School, a Dissenting A- fcademy, and, at a short distance from the town, a clean and well regulated Alms- House. One predominant deformity here, is whitened houses, with red brick chim¬ neys. White is a very glaiiing colour in ei¬ ther town or country, ’t is a transgression against nature, and, in a picturesque sense, is inharmonious. A stone colour could be as e silv washed on, as a white, a red, or a yellow. Of the Castle little is known, tho’ it wa$ the seat of the princes before the royal residehce was transferred to Di- fVe'vaur. What remains, has been convert¬ ed into! the county Goal. We have no account of it's foundation, but it was in¬ trusted by the Normans and Flemings, in the year 1116, to Owen ap Caradoc, and Rkydde'rch ap Tudor, to take the defence of it for FIcnry 1, by alternate fortnights. Gryffijlli up Rhys, understanding that there was a favourable opportunity, came sud¬ denly with his forces upon the town. Ow¬ en ap Caradoc was then on duty, rushed immediately to the point of attack, ex¬ pecting his men to have followed him ; but the greater part of them fled, and Owen was slain. The town was destroyed, and the castle much defaced. Ozcen Gwynedd burned Caermarthen in the year 1437, the first of his reign. About 1143 the castle was rebuilt by Gilbert earl of Clare, but almost immediately relinquished to Mer- edydd and Rhys, who beseiged it. In 1195 Rhys ap Gryffydd besieged and ov¬ erthrew both the town and castle. Scarce¬ ly any part of the walls which encompas¬ sed the town are visible. One wing of an old Priory, including a handsome Gate-way, yet remains. Some of the apartments are inhabited by poor people. The Prioiy-Church is extinct. In the chancel of the Church which is dedicated to St. Peter, there is a monument said to be that of Sir Rhys ap Thomas with his Lady, two recumbent figures, brought from the priory. Tho’ the church be large it wants the venerable character¬ istic of " Storied windows richly dight, Shedding a dim religious light.” Of these it has been stripped, to intro¬ duce sashes and other decorations equal¬ ly inconsistent. The trade of this place is much facilitated by the fine river Towy, which conveys ships of 250 tons. up to the bridge. It’s Manufactures Consist of tin-plate, and cast iron; the works in both branches are very exten. sive. The Fairs are held June 5, July 10, Aug. 12, Sep. 9, Oct.9, Nov. 14, forcattle, horses and pedlary. The Markets, ort Wednesday and Saturday, are abundantly- supplied with all sorts of provisions, es¬ pecially fish of the choicest kinds. In 1801 the population was 5548 inhab¬ itants, the number of houses 945. The town returns one member to parliament. This privilege was vested in the burgesses of the borough, by Henry 8. The gov¬ ernment of the corporation is vested in a mayor, 2 sheriffs, who are elected out of 16 aldermen, a recorder, and other inferi¬ or officers. Here is a court for the regis¬ try of wills, &c. under the jurisdiction of the see of St. Davids. When Wales was firS't made into a principality by the crown of England, the Chancery and Exchequer for S. Wales were kept here. Accord¬ ing to Jeffery of Monmouth, the famous magician Merlin was born at Caermarthen. He was said to have been begotten by a demon, incubus, or spright. His mother was a niece and daughter of the king of Dcmetia (S. Wales). Spencer makes Britomart, and her nurse old Glauce go to consult this physician. “ To Maridunum, that is now by change of name CayrMardin call’d, they took their way y there the wise Merlin whilom went, they say, to make hiswonne, low underneath the ground, in a deep delve, far from the view of day, that of no living wight he mote be found, when so he counsell’d with his sprighls encompass’d round. atndifthou ever happen that same way to travel, go to see that dreadful place; it is an hideous hollow cave they say, under a rock that lies a little space from the swift Bairy tumbling down apace, emongst the woody hills ofDynevowre; but dare not thou, I charge, in any case, to enter into that same baleful bower, for fear the cruel fiends should thee unwares de¬ vour.” Such arc the liberties which the poet has taken; and further, A little while, before that Merlin dy’d he did intend, a brazen wall in compass to compile about Cayrmarden, and did it commend unto his sprights to bring to perfect end; during which time the Lady of the Lake, whom long he lov’d, for him in haste did send, who therefore forc’d his workmen to forsake, them bound till his return their labour not to slake. Fairy Quctn, b. 3, C. 3. £75 This lady of the lake appears to have been a fairy or nymph of whom Merlin was en¬ amoured. The story of a fatal deception which she passed on him is quoted by Malkin, from a romance called “ Morte Arthur, printed by Caxton, in 1485, as follows. “ The Lady of the lake and Merlin departed and by the way as they went Merlin shewed to her many won¬ ders, and came into Cornwaile; and al- waies laid about the lady for to have her favour; and she was ever passing weary of him, and fain would have been deliver¬ ed of him ; for she was afraid of him, be¬ cause he was a divell’s son, and she could not put him away by any means. And so upon a time it hapned that Mer¬ lin shewed to her in a roche whereas was a great wonder, and wrought by in- chantment, which went under a stone ; so by her craft and working she made Merlin to go under that stone, to let him wit of the Marvailes there. But she wrought so there for him, that lie never came out.” About 2m. from Caer- marthen, is an eminence called Merlin's Kill, near the brow of which is a rock cal¬ led Merlin’s chair, where superstition says, the famous prophet used to sit, when he uttered his prophecies. Many travellers visit this cave ; it is in the par¬ ish of Abergwilly. Merlin appears to have been neither more nor less than a man of extraordinary wisdom and learn¬ ing, which no doubt, occasioned him to be looked on as a magician in that dark age, and transmitted as such to posterity by monkish writers, who regarded with a jealous eye all knowledge possessed out of their own pale. Here also was born Lewis Bayly, chaplain to James 1, after¬ wards bishop of Bangor, and author of the celebrated “ Practice of Piety.” A small estate in the vale of Towey was the last retreat of Sir Richard Steele, un¬ der limited circumstances, where he suf¬ fered a paralytic stroke, which greatly impaired his mental faculties. The farm he possessed, which kept him from want, is within a quarter of a mile of the town, and is called Ty Givyn. The principal inn called the Ivy-bush has been remov¬ ed. The house formerly bearing this in¬ signia was the house of sir Richard Steele who died here Sep. 1st 1729. Close to the n. side of the town is the site of a ro¬ man camp of large dimensions; the ditch- 376 es and embankments are perfectly distin¬ guishable. On a coastinc excursion, after crosr sing the ferry from Llanstephan castle, there is nothing remarkably interesting till the little trading town of Kidwelly is reached. On the way to Llanstephan Castle, the high road is left for a narrow imbow- ered lane, up a laborious ascent. On gaining the summit, a most enchanting view over the vale of the Towy, repays the toil. A stripe of the richest land, in¬ tersected by numerous hedge-rows and ornamental plantations, arise on each side of the river; above which a parallel range of high-wooded and cultivated hills form the boundary of the valley. The extensive town of Cacrmarthen ; the lof¬ ty spire of the church ; the ruined castle, and the long old bridge, with several barks lying near it; are conspicuous ob¬ jects at a short distance in the picture; which is considerably enlivened by sever¬ al gentlemen’s seats, and their appendant decorations. The town of Abergwilly, on the banks of the river, with the bishop of St. David’s palace, an ordinary building, appear in the distance; and soon after a sudden turn of the lane, the ruin of Llan- stephan castle. On the road to Llandilo Vawr, the first object of notice is Ahcrgwilly Palace , the only habitable residence of the seven which formerly belonged to the bishop of St. David’s. It was at Abergwelly where the brave, but unfortunate Llewel¬ lyn subdued his rebellious subjects, head- edby Rhun, a Scotsman ;buthelivedashort time only to enjoy the tranquillity which his courage had restored, for he was assas-. sinated by the descendants of Howel Dha, who had been deprived of their succes¬ sion to the throne of S. Wales. Uan- gunner hill is a striking object from this spot. About Alll y Gog, the range of hills on the 1. rises to greater height, and mostly clothed with woods. On the left of Cross Inn is Court Henry, built by Hen¬ ry ap Gwilym. At present it belongs to the family of Dyer, and here is Grongar- hill, the spot to which the poet has given so just a celebrity. Nearly opposite Rhw’r Adar, is Golden Grove, on the other side of the Towy, which does not an¬ swer by any means to it’s name. Dine- vawr Castle is a grand object from this CAERMARTHEN. 277 CAERMARTHEN. 278 place. It is seated upon a lofty hill cloth¬ ed with venerable oaks, once the regal seat of the ancient Cambrian monarchs. The last prince who inhabited it was Rhys Ap Tew l)wr Mawr an ancestor of it's pos¬ sessor Rice, now baron Dynevor. It was besieged by the forces of Henry 1, in the year 1226, which were defeated, with the loss of 2000 men, by Llewelyn, prince of N. Wales. This monument of ancient splendour stands at the s-w. boundary of a spacious park, adorned with plantations and diversified with swelling hills. New¬ ton Park appears a highly finished place, and the views of the vale are extensive and picturesque. Mr. Lipscomb rung at an ancient gate, and was admitted to see the grounds. Passed a stately range of oaks, and had a beautiful view of the val¬ ley to the n. Then descended through a rich grove which flanks the mansion, which is a square building, stuccoed en¬ tirely over, a small turret projecting at each corner, covered with a kind of dome. The whole embattled. It has sash windows and a low doorway. The undulations of these grounds are remarka¬ bly beautiful. A medicinal spring has lately been discovered in the park. The water has been analysed by rar. Accum, who found the gaseous contents in 100 parts to be cub. inch. Carbonic acid gas, 10,50 Atmospheric air, 4,50 The solid contents in 100 parts are, grains. Carbonate of iron, 5,25 Muriate of soda, 6,00 Carbonate of lime, 4,75 Muriate of lime, 3,25 Sulphate of lime, 2,00 In pursuing the above route, mr. Skrine made a digression from Abergwily a- cross the Towy, to visit Middleton-hall, the seat of mr. Paxton, which far eclipses ihe proudest of the Cambrian mansions in rsiatic pomp and splendour. This house deserves admiration for it’s external beau- y, as well as for it’s internal elegance, ind decoration; yet our tourist thinks the style of it’s architecture but ill comports with the imposing, tho’ simple, majesty if the surrounding country. Resuming he course before described along the vale if Towy, a prospect of unrivalled beau- y and picturesque effect was soon unveil- d. A vast amphitheatre of wild moun- *ins formed the head of the vale. On the road to Llandu-o-vawr, for¬ merly stood the venerable remains of Green Castle, built by Uchtred, prince of Merionethshire, in 1138; but the ruin is now reduced to a few unimportant walls. About half way, the ruins of Gruslwyn castle occupy a bold conic hill, in the vale of Towy. Both these fragments of an¬ tiquity are within view from the road. At the 7th mile on the road to Swan¬ sea may be seen the blue waves of the o- cean, and at the distance of 13m. occurs the small village of Hannon. The char¬ acter of the country through this district, is pleasing, but not grand, varied by swel¬ ling hills and extensive vallies. Within two miles of Swansea, however, the sce¬ nery increases in magnificence.—R. War¬ ner. A brisk posting business in summer, on theroad to NARBERTH,supportsa good inn at the village of St. Clare, distant 9 m. from Caermarthen. St. Clare is a long straggling village, situated at the junc¬ tion of the river Cathgenny with the Taff; upon the banks of the former stood the castle, of which not a stone is left; an artificial tumulus, upon which the citadel was placed, marks it’s ancient site. Mr. Donovan found a ramble of a mile or two upon the banks of the Corwen very delightful; and was much amused by seeing some poor people engaged in fishing out of that slimy navigable bark called a coracle, or corwc in the language of the Southwallians. “The green bridge of Wales,” says the same intelligent tour¬ ist, was the object of a solitary excur¬ sion of 5m. or more, to the s-w of St. Clare’s. The only circumstance for which it is remarkable, arises from the waters of a small stream, which takes it’s rise to the n., quits it’s course above ground at this place, and finds a passage through a subterraneous rocky avenue, whence it does not emerge till in one col¬ lected stream upon the sea-coast below the village of Readme. The particulars of the highway path to Narberth, (from Cary,) are to Stony-bridge, over the river, lm. 3 f.; to Tavemplwcketh, 2m; ( IVer - naalt-House, - Williams, esq. on the r.) to Pool y gravel, 3m. Inn, White-Hart; at l^m. cross the Abercwm river, and at |m. further, the Clivebam, which runs on tho 1. into the Taff; to Llanvihangel Aben cum, lm. 7f.; cross the Abercwm river, 279 CA ERM ARTHEN. 280 the course of which is into the sea on the l. To St. Clare’s, 5m.; cross the Taff. (On the r. to Haverfordwest, through Whit- land, 21m. To Llanddowror, 2m. To Ta. vernspile, 5m.; inn the Feathers. Cold . blow, 3m. (On the 1. to Pembroke 9m.) Narberth, lm. 6 f. If on his road to Nar. berth the traveller’s curiosity should lead him to explore the cloistered recesses of the cistertian monks of Alba domus, h e must diverge a little to the r., into the well-wooded vale of IVhitland. To Tenby, pursue the above recited route to Coldblow, 205 m. Templeton, lm. Begelly, 2|m. Tenby, 4Jm. To Laugharne, pass to Stony-bridge, 1 m. 3f. Pool y Gravel, (Inn, W. Hart.) 5m. 5f. St. Clare's, 2 £m. Cross the Taff riv¬ er, (on the r. through Whitland to Nar- berth, 12 gm.; Haverfordwest, 21 ; Mil. ford-haven, 30£, and Pembroke, 27m.) to Laugharne, 3m. T o Llanbeder, take the Llandilo vawr road for about 2m. leaving Abergwili on the r. take the road to the 1 .; cross the Gwili river, to Rhyd y caie, Inn, Royal Oak, 5m. 5f where is Castell Piggin and on the 1. Cwm Gwili and beyond Cwm Dwy- frain. Llangwilli, 3|m. Cross the Cor- rwy river, on the r. see Ystrad Coning ; cross the Gwili river at Pont ar Saisse, to Llangarish, thence to Brechva, and Gwing- rig, 2m. 7f. New Inn, lm. Troadgrhw turnpike, |m. (on the r. is Porth y Berllan House, Thomas Sanders, esq. 3gm. be¬ yond is Mighmead-house, mrs. Evans.) Llanybydder, 5m. If. (Hence is a shorter bye-road to Llanbeder, taking the Teivy river on the 1. and passing Pencarreg on the r.) On the highway, cross the Teivy, pass Llan-faughan, John Thomas, esq. to Llanwnnen, 2m. 3f. (On the 1. to Car¬ digan 26m.) Cross the Grannel river, to Llanbeder, 2m. 7f. From Carmarthen Sir R. Hoare recom¬ mends an excursion to Llandilo, to visit the royal palace at Dinevawr, and the british fortress of Carreg Cennen. “ In this journey we must follow the northern banks of the Towy to Llandilo, and return to Caermarthen by the s. The traveller who wishes to see this fine vale to advantage, must observe these direc¬ tions : he will pass by Golden Grove , late, ly the seat of mr. Vaughan, but now be¬ longing to lord Cawdor, a spot command¬ ing every requisite beauty in point of si¬ tuation, yet possessing hone : [I here al¬ lude to the site of the mansion-house ; which is placed in a low situation, and surrounded with modern and formal plan¬ tations, while the higher grounds in the park comprehend in one point of view an unrivalled assemblage of the most beau¬ tiful and classic scenery. In the front stands Grongar-hill, to the r. are the lux¬ uriant woods of Newton-park, overtopped by the proud ruins of Dinevawr ; and to the 1. the bold fortress of Drusslyn rears it’s insulated head in the narrowest part of one of the most luxuriant vales in Europe.] He will then mount the summit of a hill, very appropriately called Golwgy byd, or the sight of the world ; whence he will enjoy a most comprehensive view of the beautiful vale of Towy on one side, and of a most extensive tract of country on the other, in which the rugged eminence of Caireg Cennen forms a very conspicu¬ ous feature : on descending the hill, he will find the view towards Dinevawr highly pleasing. The next objectofattrac- tion will be Drusslyn Castle, of the history of which I can gain little information. It’s situation is singularly bold, and it’s summit commands a most advantageous view of the vale of Towy, which in the opinion of many stands unequalled in S. Wales, tho’ I think it has a most power¬ ful rival in the vale of Usk. Having sur¬ veyed in 2 different points the most beau¬ tiful part of this valley, the traveller may proceed on his journey.” Iti passing from Caermarthen to Llan¬ beder, the road Sarw Helen, as somesay out of compliment to the wife of the empe¬ ror Constantius the 76th sovereign of Bri¬ tain, but mr. Meyrick thinks that as Lo- ventium and the other stations were made in the time of Julius Agricola, there can be no doubt but that this road bears the same date. Constantius did not obtain the imperial dignity till the year 304. Others say that the word Helen or Elen, is a corruption, from Sarn Lleon, or “ The Road of the Legion.” It is certainly of roman construction, about 30 feet in breadth, the sides made of stone, and the centre filled up with gravel. At a farm called Per thy berllen, near new Inn, it is very visible. It passes New Inn, runs in a n-e. direction between this and the par¬ ish of Llanllwny, and thence towards Llanybydder. It then does not cross the CAERMARTHENSHIRE. 282 river, but continuing on the Caermarthen- shire side, goes through the parish of Pencarreg. It then crosses the river at a ford near the town of Lampeter, Hence it goes to Llanio, or Loventium, and takes a northernly direction through the parish of Llanbadern Odyn, Tregarron, and by Tauhirion, Rhos, Gorsvawr; over Lled- rod hill, and Rhydlwyd, and Cwmllech- wedd common. It is afterwards visible at 3 farm called Brcnnau in the parish of Llanvihangel y Creuddyn, and then again 3 t another farm called Llwynrhingyll, thence it proceeds to Penallt, near Mach¬ ynlleth, and continues it’s course in N. Wales. There are several tumuli in the vale of Teivy erected by the Romans for sheltering their cattle. Tommen Llanio might have been one of these. This tu¬ mulus is moated. To Kidwelly, 9m. Malkin. — Llandilo Vawr, 15m. Malkin; Skrine; Lips¬ comb. — Llandilo Vawr, and back to Caermarthen, thence to Llaugharne, Donovan. — Llaugharne, 12|m. Evans. — Swansea, 26m. Warner. — Llanstephan, 8m. Wyndham; Barber. — Tenby, 29m. — Narberth, 11m. — Haverfordwest, 33jm. — Llampeter, 23§m. — Pembroke, 31m. — Milford haven, 40m. CAERMARTHENSHIRE, anciently called Dimetia, is bounded on the n. by Cardiganshire, on the e. by Breconshire, on the w. by Pembrokeshire, and on the s. partly by Glamorganshire, and partly by the sea. It extends from e. to w. about 45m. in the contrary direction little more titan 20, in circumference 134, and con¬ tains 9-26 square miles; 590,640 acres. It contains 1 county town (Caermarthen) '8 hundreds, 6 market towns, 87 parishes, 13,820houses, 67,317 inhabitants,returns 2 members to parliament, viz. 1 for the county, and one for Caermarthen, is in the province of Canterbury, and diocese of St. Davids, and in the S. Wales circuit. The general surface of Caermarthenshire is hilly ; and in the n. and e. parts the .tills rise into mountains, so that the fea- ures of the landscape are bold and strik- ng. The vales are for the most part nar¬ row, and the hills rise abruptly from the kirts of small valleys, with which this dis¬ trict is almost every where intersected. The vale of Towy is the principal of the level tracts, extending 20 miles up the country, with a breadth of 2m. Near Llaugharne is a considerable flat tract embanked from the sea, and of singular fertility. The principal river in the county is the Towy, which rising in Car¬ diganshire, enters Caermarthenshire at it’s n-e. corner, and crossing towards the s-w. passes Caermarthen, and empties it¬ self into a large bay, formed by the whole coast of this county, shut in on each side by the projecting shores of Pembroke¬ shire and Glamorganshire. The vale of Towy abounds in picturesque beauties, which from the celebrated Grongar Hill, and the ruined Castle of Dynevor, af¬ ford the richest prospects. Many rivulets join the Towy in it’s course; and sev¬ eral others in the county run separately to the sea among which is the TafF, which comes down from Pembrokeshire. The climate of Caermarthenshire, is not fa¬ vourable to the growth of wheat. Barley succeeds better; but the most profitable crop is oats; of which large quantities are exported to Bristol and other places. Numbers of black cattle are bred in the country ; and much butter is made for exportation. It’s rivers abound in fish, especially salmon and a delicious species of trout called sewen. It was once ex¬ ceedingly well-wooded, but great waste has of late years been made of the timber. Coal and limestone are plentiful, and it contains lead and iron mines. The cap¬ ital of this county, Caermarthen, is well- built and populous, and is usually reck¬ oned the first town in S. Wales. It’s riv¬ er admits vessels of moderate burden, which gives it a considerable trade. Llanelly, upon an arm of the sea called Burry river, running between Glamor¬ ganshire and this county, exports a con¬ siderable quantity of pit coal, and tinned iron plates. From Kidwelly, a small town upon a creek, near the mouth of the Towy, a canal has been cut to some col¬ lieries, whence coals are brought down and exported. In the neighbourhood of Llandovery, considerable quantities of woollen stockings arc manufactured ; and some miles to the n. of it are great lead- mines. Near Llandilo faur, a small town upon the Towy, was fought the last bat¬ tle between the forces of Edward 1 and 283 284 CAERMARTH ENSHIRE. CAERNARVON. of Llewellyn, prince of Wales, which proving decisive against the latter, put a final period to the independancy of Wales. The villages near the sea-coast are fre¬ quently beautiful; but in the n. parts of the county their condition and that of the solitary cottages, is the most miserable that can be conceived. There is an un¬ accountable mixture of possessions in this county, as well as in those of Pembroke and Cardigan, where it is not unusual to find half an acre of land surrounded by a circle of contiguous property. There are several vestiges of roman ways, par¬ ticularly about Llandovery ; and many sepulchral monuments of the romans as well as the ancient britons. Roman coins, of a very early date, have been dug up in a camp near Whitland; and in the same neighbourhood there is a circle, resemb¬ ling Rollrich stones in Oxfordshire. Be¬ tween the rivers Cowyn and Tave, there is a remarkable barrow, with the stone chest for the reception of the remains in the centre. From Cfickeatb, 27 miles, Pennant. - Bangor, 9 § miles, Bindley ; Hutton. - Festiniog, 26 miles, Bingley. -Llanberis, 8 miles, Aikin. -Nant Frangon, Hutton -- Beaumaris. 17 miles, Skrine; Hutton. -Beddgelart, 12 m. Wyndliam ; Evans. -DolbadernCastle, 6miles, Warner; Gilpin. -Amlwch, 31 miles. Warner’s 2d. Walk. - Pont Aberglaslyn, Ilutton. Back from an excursion into Snowdonia, Evans. CAERNARVON, the Segontiumofthe Itinerary of Antoninus, was the only sta¬ tion that the Romans possessed in this part of Cambria, and some outposts, and fragments of their roads still mark the ex¬ tent of the imperial eagle. The site of the ancient city lies about ^m. s. of the present town, intersected by the turn¬ pike road. It is an oblong square, in¬ cluding a space of about 7 acres upon a small elevated summit. Some fragments of the walls still remain, and in one part was lately discovered, the part of a build¬ ing constructed with tiles, supposed to have been an hypocaust. Near the Seiont was a strong fort, intended to secure a landing-place at the time of high water. This was of an oblong shape included in an area of about one acre. Two sides of the walls arc nearly entire. One is 74 yards long, the other 64, from 11 to 12 feet high, and six feet thick. Most of the stone facing having been removed, the peculiarity of the roman method of build¬ ing is apparent. Along the walls, pass¬ ing through the entire thickness, in paral¬ lel lines, run 3 rows of circular holes, a. bout 3 inches in diameter. Similar holes are discoverable at the ends of the walls extending lengthwise. Much conjectu¬ ral learning has been displayed in en¬ deavouring to ascertain the original de¬ sign and use of these apertures. There appears to have been one circular bastion tower at each angle. It is evident that this place was connected with Constan¬ tine. A stone was found in a subterra¬ nean vault inscribed S. V. C. and a gold coin among the ruins inscribed t. divI aug. fil. Augustus. In welsh it is cal¬ led Caer Custeint, or the city of Constanti- us. In the field s-e. of the camp. Sir Richard Colt Hoare discovered several pieces of fine glazed roman pottery. A well by the fort retains the name of Helen, daughter of Octavius, duke of Cornwall; and wife of Maximus, first cousin of Con¬ stantine, who was born at Segontium. This place was for a long time the resi¬ dence of the british princes, Cadwallo, the son of Cadfan appears to have first fixed the court at this place. The present Caernarvon, (from caer a fortress; yn, in; and Arfon, the district opposite to Mon, or Anglesea,) was probably the british town, that subsisted under the romans. Giraldus Cambriensis mentions passing through it in the year 1 188, and Hugh earl of Chester erected a fortress here denomi¬ nated Ken Caer Custenni. Llewelyn the great, also dates a charter, granted to the priory of Penmon, from it, in the year 1221. Caernarvon Castle forms an era in the history of this part of the country. After the completion of his conquest, Ed¬ ward the first, in 1282, undertook this great work. The first who received the high responsibility of this place was John de Havering. In 1284 Sir Roger de Pul- esdon was probably constable, who in 1284 was appointed sheriff, and keeper of Anglesea, and resided at the mansion called, Plas Pulesdon. In 1294 a war-tax was imposed upon the welsh, when they seized on sir Roger, and caused him to be hanged. Afterwards the insurgents, under their leader Madoc, an illegitimate- 285 Caernarvon. ssg son of the unfortunate prince Llewelyn, attacked Caernarvon, massacred all the English inhabitants in cold blood, and set fire to the place. It was not repossessed till the King in person commanded his army. In 1402 the town was blockaded by Owen Glyndwr, and was defended for king Henry by Jevan ap Meredydd, who died during the seige. In the times of the civil wars, Caernarvon was seized, in behalf of the parliament, by Captain Swan- ley, in 1644. In 1646 it was repossessed by generals Mytton and Langhorn. In 164S, gen. Mytton was in turn besieged by sir John Owen ; but hearing that Colo¬ nels Carter and Tvvisselton, were advance- rng he raised the seige and marched to meet the rebels. Near Llandegai, a furi. ous rencounter ensued, in which sir John was defeated, and made prisoner. After which events the whole of N. Wales sub¬ mitted to the parliamentary authority. Formerly the Castle was held by the Wynnes of Glynllifon andGwydir; by the Bulkeleys of Baron-hill, by the Mostyns of Gloddaeth, and now by the earl of Ux¬ bridge. The external walls are nearly entire. The building occupies a large space of the w. end of the town. On 2 sides it was environed by water, and up¬ on the margin was an embattled terrace. The third side was evidently defended by a loss, which probably extended round the fourth. The walls are from 8 to 10 feet thick, and have within their thick¬ ness, a narrow gallery, with convenient ceillets, or slips, for the discharge of ar¬ rows at the assailants. Above the em¬ battled parapet, ascend in majestic gran¬ deur, numerous turetted towers, not uni¬ form, but pentagonal, hexagonal, and oc¬ tagonal. Upon the s. side next the river Seiont, are 3 hexagon and octagon tow¬ ers, with three others to the north. Two are more lofty than the rest. The Eagle-touer, so called from a figure of that bird carved in stone, has the addition of 3 elegant turrets issuing from the top, and is remarkably beautiful. This figure is said to have been brought by Edward’s orders from one of the towers of Segonti- um. The principal entrance on the e. is peculiarly grand; beneath a massy tower, upon the front, is a statue of Ed¬ ward, in a menacing posture, with a sword half drawn in his hand. The remaining groves in this gateway indicate that it was defended by 4 portcullises. The Zuecm- Gate, through which Eleanor, the duteous and affectionate wife of the Conqueror entered, is considerably above the level of the present ground, and probably pass¬ able only over the moat,by a draw-bridge. In the n-e. corner is a deep well, now near¬ ly filled up, having a round lower contig¬ uous, formerly a dungeon. Such is the external delineation of Caernarvon castle, founded upon a rock, and almost entire. The area within is irregularly oblong, formerly divided into 2 parts, forming an outer and inner court. The external parts are exceedingly more perfect than the ap- partments within, which are mere skele¬ tons. The state rooms have been fitted up with spacious windows, and elegant tracery. These externally present a square front, but internally are all polygonal. A gallery, or covered way, appears to have extended round the interior of the castle; of this about 70 yards is entire. The on¬ ly remaining stair-case is up the Eagle tow¬ er, from the summit of which is an ex¬ tensive view of the surrounding country and the isle of Anglesea. The 3 beauti¬ ful, and hence uniform conic summits, of the Reifl ridge in the promontory of Llyn as seen to close the vast and varied scene The Rivals, as they are frequently called, is a word the mere echo of the british ’r eifl, but of very different signification. —R. Lloyd. These hills are called also Corn Madryn, and Cam Boduon. Edward 2 is said to have been born in a little dark room in this tower which has a fire-place in it; but the adjoining central spacious apartment on the same floor, others have thought more likely to have been the scene of the royal accouchement. From a heap of rubbish, near the end of the court, an Echo returns all that is offered to it; not indeed with any addition, like that of the Irishman’s at Killarney, which when you say “ How do you do Paddy Blake an¬ swers, “ Arrah, my honey, and pretty well, I thank you.” Edward had annex¬ ed the principality of Wales to the king¬ dom of England, but the welsh were far from being satisfied with this usurpation, still being determined to yield no obedi¬ ence to any prince but of their own na¬ tion, and language. Edward thought of an expedient for cozening them. He ordered Eleanor in the depth of winter out of England to Caernarvon castle, there 287 CAERNARVON. 283 to lie in. Edward then summoned all the the garrison. An enlarged new structure barons and chief persons throughout Wales has been in contemplation. The to meet him at Rhyddlan to consult about County-hall stands nearly opposite the the welfare of their country. He told the grand entrance to the castle. It is mean- welch nobility that they had often wished looking without, but neat and commodi- for a prince of their own country who 0 us within. The County-prison, situ- might rule over them. They promised ated near the former, in Newgate-street, to allow of such an appointment, and to js a neat, small edifice, upon the plan of obey such a personage. Edward then one at Ruthin. Over the e. gateway mentioned his o-xn son Edward, recently of the town are apartments anciently oc- born, maintaining the terms of the engage- cupied by the escheator of N. Wales, and ment to have been strictly complied with, subsequently as the custom-house, was for his son was born in Wales, could speak converted into a Town-Hall, for transact- no English, and his character irreproach- ing municipal business, according to an in- able. Tho’ born in 1284 it was not before scribed label in front, by the munificence he had reached his 16th year, that prince' of sir Wm. Wynne, and his nephew, T. Edward received the reluctant fealty of Wynne, esq., in the year 1767. A his deluded subjects. The eldest sons Ae:t> iUarto-Wbr/se, has been lately erect- of the English monarchs havesubsequent- e d, with excellent shambles, and stalls ly been styled prince or princess of Wales, for other articles, over and under which and independently of birth, been created are ware-rooms for housing grain and oth- so by letters patent. Caernarvonwas dis- er unsold commodities. The hot and tinguished by the first royal charter grant- cold sea-water Baths, built by the earl of ed to Wales, by which it was constituted Uxbridge, add considerably to the accom- a free borough, to be governed by a may- modations of Caernarvon. The magnifi- or, one alderman, 2 bailiffs, a town clerk, cent Hotel on the borders of the town was and 2 sergeants at mace. The represent- also built by the same patriotic nobleman, ative of the place is elected by it’s burges- It is an elegant stone building, disposed es, and those of Nefin, Criccicth, Con- without the walls, a little above the Me- wy, and Pwllheli. Caernarvon may nai, of which it commands a fine prospect, with justice be considered the first town In point of accommodation and elegance, in N. Wales, on account of it’s concomi- this inn appears to emulate the Penrhyn- tant advantages. It’s contiguity to Snow- Arms, near Bangor. The charges, it may donia and the isle of Anglesea are con- be expected,bear a proportion in the scale siderations to an investigating resident, of superabundance. Some charming It’s situation is partly on the Menai, and views of the sea and Anglesea did appear partlyontheestuaryof theSeiont. The even from the door, but a plantation of town was surrounded by a massy wall of trees, upon the opposite side of the road great height and thickness, flanked and have risen to intercept this delightful pros- defended at short intervals, by numerous pect. They were planted, it is said, in semicircular bastion towers. A road consequenceof party prejudice, andthrive ranged entirely round the inside of the in defiance of public malediction. For embattled parapet, and 2 gates formed the acquatic excursions, a boat may be had entrance into the town ; the e. facing the here, the charge is one guinea a day. mountains, and the w. opening to the From the top of the rock behind the ho. Menai. A wide terrace extending from tel, there is an excellent bird’s eye view the quay to the n. end of the town walls, of the town. Hence also, the castle forms a most charming Walk, the fashion- and town-walls may be seen to the best able promenade, in fine weather, for all advantage. When the atmosphere is clear, descriptions of people; who, while they the isle of Anglesea, with Holyhead and inhale the salutiferous breeze, may be a- Parys mountains, appear like a map spread greeably amused by the moving varieties out beneath the eye. Sometimes the very of the port. The Church, which is a remote mountains of Wicklow, may be chapel of the mother at Llanbeblic,exhib- perceived over the channel. Upon the its no display of beauty. It is much too east side, are the britlsh alps. The lof* small for the population of the place; it ty Gliders are also seen much above the was probably intended only for the use of neighbouring summits. The Sports* 289 CAERNARVON. 290 man and Kings-head are mentioned as Agricultural Society was founded in 1807. good Inns. W. Pritchard, landlord of the The church of Uanbeblic, a parish which very comfortable and well-situated Goat- includes Caernarvon, about $m. from Tavern, amuses his guests by masterly the town, is supposed to have de¬ performances on the harp, and procures rived it’s name from Publicus the son of this instrument for sale. A large an- Helina. The service is performed in cient mansion, called Plasmaur, from it’s Welsh. In the church is an altar tomb, unique appearance, often attracts the at- erected to the memory of William, a son tention of travellers. Two dates in front of Sir Wm. GryfFyd, of Penrhyn, who died inform the observer that the edifice was in 1587, and Margaret his wife. Two re¬ constructed or altered, during the year cumbent figures upon a mat, carved in 1691. Another in Blackboy-street, is white marble, exhibit a fine specimen of dated 1613. The town contains some the sculptorial art. From Caernar- good houses, and the suburbs extend be- von, along the western part of the bay, yond the walls. Various improvements the shore is flat, forming a sandy or grav-, have been made during the last few elly beach, over which a good road has years. What was called the Maes, near been formed. The antiquary, however, the castle, long a nuisance to the place, will be diverted from this by a part of a now forms the site of a handsome row of roman road, appearing upon the r. and ex, buildings. No manufactories are estab- tending from Segontium, to the strong lished at Caernarvon, but it’s maritime post of Dinas Dinlle. This includes the station enables it to carry on a considera- top of a large mount, apparently artifici- ble coasting trade with London, Bristol, ally formed, upon the verge of an exten- Liverpool and Ireland ; and some foreign sive marsh near the shore. Upon the connections have recently been attempt- summit is a large area, surrounded by a ed. The Port affords a sufficient quan- vast rampart of earth; within this space, tity of sea-room, and excellent anchor- the remains of buildings, of an oblong age from 10 to 12 fathom, yet the Aber form are discernable. One part is defend- sand-bank, forms a dangerous bar, and is ed by a deep foss,with 2 lofty ramparts, an insurmountable obstacle to it’s becom- To this great centre,” says the rev. R, ing a harbour for ships of a great draught Farrington, “ correspond several other of water. The import trade consists of forts, which lie in various directions, wines, coals, porter, groceries, &c. &c.. The most considerable on the e. are Din- and the export of slates from the quarries orddwig, in the parish of Llanddiniolcn still in the vicinity of Llanberis and Llanllvf. entire, strengthened with a double ditch ni. The Quay, ranging upon one and rampart, and Yr hen Gastel the old side of the castle is of considerable extent, castle, near the brook Carrog, is a small An act obtained in 1809, embraces the entrenchment, with a single rampart, 50 capacious plan of taking out a pier, and paces long; and Dinas Gorfan, near Pont extending the quays in a n-e direction. Newvdd, has merely the name remaining. The number of Vessels belonging to the They are both in the parish of Llanwnda ; port in 1800, were 40, containing 2053 about 3m. towards the s. one of the most tons, amount of men 131. In 1803, 55 rocky is, Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyf- ressels, 3435 tons, 216 men. In 1805, 63 ni, distant l|m. This is a circular en- /essels, 3866 tons, 248 men. In 1807, 62 campment, about 100 paces in diameter, vessels, 3444 tons, 224 men. In 1808, very steep towards the river, and on e- 11 vessels, 3385 tons, 221 men. In 1809, very side except the w. The ramparts 50 vessels, 2713 tons, 179 men. This with a treble ditch, are of loose stones, rort is a creek, dependant upon the ha- exceedingly strong, and not to be taken ten of Beaumaris. The Custom-house, out, without great force. The entrance s a small insignificant looking building, is towards the n. This fort is about lm, ituated without the town-walls. There s-w. of the great road, that leads from s a well supplied market on Saturdays, Caernarvon to Pwllheli, Jm. from Lleiar, .nd 4 annual fairs, viz. Feb. 25, May 16, the ancient seat of the Twisletons. Far- Aug. 4, Dec. 4. In 1801 the number of ther on, at the foot of Llanhaiarn moun- \ouses amounted to 609, the inhabitants to tain, and not far from the place where the ,626, viz. males 158S, females 203?. The parish joins, upon l.lan Gybi, there i$ 291 CAERNARVON. a small fort at the top of a high rock cal¬ led Caer. There are other smaller forts interspersed about the country. These were either the residences of generals, as Gas’ys, in the parish of Llanwnda, or places of observation as Dinas y Prif, in the same parish, where there is a deep ditch and entrance looking to¬ wards the principal fort Dinas Dinlle. In a salt mash opposite Caernarvon castle, grows the Plantago marilima, P. coronopus, Triglochin maritimum, Sa- molus valerandi, Glaux maritima. Eu¬ phorbia portlandica, &c. Arenaria mari¬ na ; on dry banks near the Castle, Car- duus tenuiflorus; among the bushes on the rocks near, Polypodium aculeatum. On the shore near Llan vaglan, Erodium maritimum, Chenopodium maritimum, and Silene maritima; in a cornfield, Si- lene anglica. On walls upon the coast, near Llanfaglan church, Erodium mari¬ timum; between Caernarvon and Llan¬ faglan church, Glaucium luteum; on Rhuddgaer warren, nearly opposite the town of Caernarvon, Sedum sexangnlare. Near Caernarvon, in sw'ampy mead¬ ows grow, Anagallis tenella, Spergula nodosa, Ranunculas lingua, Scutellaria minor, Epipactis palustris ; in hedges near the coast, Sedum telephium; sandy sea coast, Euphorbia portlandica; on sandy barren places, Tormentilla reptans ; near Rhuddgaer w’arren, in shallow streams. Ranunculus hederaceous, in corn-fields, Stachys arvensis; in old pastures, Neottia spiralis; in the rivers, Zannichcllia pal¬ ustris; in lanes, Polypodium filix foemi" na; among bushes of the rock Tuthill* behind the Hotel, Sedum telephium, Rosa spinosissima, upon the top of Tuthill, As¬ tragalus hypoglottis; about the sides of ponds, Lysimachia vulgaris; ncarTrcfar- then, abouthalfway between Tal y Voel and Moel y don ferries, Pulmonaria mari¬ tima ; among the sand on the coast to Mol y don, Salsolakali; in uncultivated pla¬ ces between Caernarvon and Moel y don, Orobanche major. On the side of Llyn Cwellyn, on the way to Bcddgelart, Si¬ lene anglica. On the road side to Ban¬ gor, Ribes uva-crispa; in hedges plenti¬ fully, Rosa spinosissima; in a hedge near the Menai, between Cacrmarthcn and Llanfair Iscaer, Hypericum andioste- mum; towards Llanberis, in bogs, Hy¬ pericum elodcs on heaths and thicketsany 292 in exposed situations, H. pulchrum; up¬ on heaths, plentifully, Polypodium ore- opteris. Upon the side of Llyn Cwellyn, on the road to Bcddgelart, Silene mariti¬ ma. In various parts of the county of Caernarvon, in peat bogs, Vacinium oxycocus: among the mountains, Ru- bus chamaemovus, in dry places. Ly¬ copodium clavatum, L. alpinum; upon rocks, Silene acaulis, Hieracium muro- rum, Serratula alpina, Saxifraga hypnoi- des, Sedum anglicum; upon old walls and moist rocks, Cotyledon umbilicus. The roman road from Dinas Dinlle to Segonlium, and from thence to Dinas Din- arddwig, is in some places visible. Se- gontium received it’s name from the riv- er Seiont, which runs from the lower lake at Llanberis, passes under the walls, and discharges itself into the Menai, near the castleof Caernarvon. It has been of an i oblong shape and formerly occupied a- bout 6 acres of ground. It is now divid¬ ed into 2 parts by the road which leads to Beddgelart. Not far hence is the ancient fort which belonged to it; this is also of an oblong figure, and contains about an acre of ground. The walls are at present about II feet high and 6 in thickness, and at each corner there has been a tower. The Romans formed their walls by first placing the stones one upon another, gen¬ erally in 2 courses, the one regular, and the other in a zigzag form, and then poured boiling mortar upon them, which insinuated itself into the many openings and hollows of the work, and thereby, from it’s strength bound the irregular pieces of stone into a firm and solid wall. The mortar used in these w’alls has ac¬ quired from timealmost the hardness of stone. Along the walls are three parallel rows of circular holes, each nearly three inches in diameter, which pass through the whole thickness ; and at the end are others similar. There has been much learned conjecture as to the design cf these holes, some have supposed them to have been used for discharging arrows through, at the enemy, others that they have been left to admit air, in order to harden the liquid cement which was poured in. The Rev. W. Binglcy conjectures that they were made for the purpose of placing in them poles to support the scaffolding used in constructing the walls. “ Upon of the eminences in the neighbour- 263 CAERNARVON. S94, hood of Caernarvon, we have a complete view of Anglesea, whence may be count¬ ed 31 mountains ranged in front. This natural barrier admits but of five narrow and dangerous passes, guarded by 5 cas¬ tles ; Diganwy, at the opening of the Con¬ wy, which leads to Sychnant, at the foot of Pen Maen Mawr; Caer-rhun or Bvvlch y Mau Fean, enters Aber ; Dol y Felen, at Nant Frangon, opens at Llandegai; Dol Bailern, at Nant Berris; and Ciclwm, at Nant tal y Llyn, between Moel Elian and Myneth Vawr.”—Hutton. Land in the immediate vicinity of Caer¬ narvon lets very high ; some grass fields for not less than 51. an acre. The aver¬ age of arable, however, does not exceed 12 s or 15s. and some is as low as 2s 6d. an acre. Tithes run very high, and are com¬ monly let by auction. The consequence of this is obvious; it sets at variance the clergyman and his parishioner, parties who should be the most affectionately u- nited. If tythes were valued,and acorn rent fixed in lieu of them, religion would gain much, and the clergy lose nothing except trouble. From Caernarvon may be made a long and interesting digression, including some of the most striking scenery in N. Wales, by way of the beautiful lake call¬ ed Llyn Cywellyn, under the foot of Snow¬ don to Beddgelart, thence along the al¬ pine road to Capel Curio, and return to Caernarvon, by Llanberis Lakes and Dolbadern Castle. In setting out, the ,valc of Beltws or Nant y Betties contains but few things worth noticing, except to the mineralogist and botanist. Bettws parish church or chapel, stands at the low¬ er end of the vale, at the foot of that ex¬ tensive and high hill called Moel Elian. It is dedicated to the same St. Garmon who effected, with his fellow saint Lupus, the Hallelujah victory near Mold, in Flintshire. The name Betties is probably from Bedw ; birch, such places being planted and sheltered by birch-trees, indicates low, re¬ tired, and warm places. At the lower •end of Cyme llyn Lake, on the s. side, is a hanging precipice jetting out of the high¬ er rock called Castell Cidwm or Cidwm’s castle, said to have been the fortress to this mountainous passage. Overatongue of rising ground, is a farm called Dries y Coed, the property of Thomas Asheton Smith, esq., where, about 1768, was a great copper-mine, in which a Chester company were concerned, but it proved an unprofitable undertaking. To the w. of this lake are two other pools, called Llynniau Nantle, from which Wilson made a fine picture of Snowdon, which was en¬ graved by Woollet. Not far distant from the lake Cywellyn, on the right of the road, is a small lake called Llyn y dyiear- chen, or the lake of the sod, where a float¬ ing island, similar to one described by Giraldus, still retains it’s miraculous ap¬ pearance. Pursuing the same road, which is now well improved as far as Pont Ab- erglaslyn, we meet with Llyn y Gader, and passing several extensive mountain farms on the r. and 1., about 4 miles from Cywellyn bridge, we arrive at'tlie village of Beddcelart. The road all the way from Caernarvon to Abcrglaslyn, runs upon plain even ground. Yet tho’ the farms are situated thus low, the farm¬ ers raise little corn. A few patches of oats is the principal part of their corn produce; these are sown in April or May > and the fogs prevent their ripening. It is in this manner that they set at defiance their country proveib, ‘‘Cyntaff ei og, cyntaf ci grymman;” (i.e. the first his harrow, the first his sickle.) Wheat and barley are never or but rarely sown, tho’ the soil is excellent, of a sufficient depth, and fit for any grain, and tho’ sea-sand or lime can be procured at moderate ex¬ pense. “ From the beautifully retired village of Beddcelart,” says sir Richard Hoare, “ I would visit the prophetic hill of Dinas Emrys, and passing near the fine lakes of Llyn y Dinas, and Gieyncdd, pur¬ sue the alpine road to Capel Curig ; whence the highest point of Snowdon ap¬ pears very conspicuous, and to greater ad¬ vantage than from any other spot. From Capel Curig, I would return to C aernar, von by Llanberis lakes, and Dolbadern cas¬ tle ; and I am sure every tourist will par¬ don me for having recommended so long and arduous a digression ; for by enco d¬ ing Snowdon, he will have had an oppor¬ tunity of examining it’s sublime and ma¬ jestic features in the most advantageous point of view.”—Giraldus, with Annota¬ tions, ii, 389. Mr. Skrine made an excursion from Caernarvon, to explore the long neck of land, which forms the extreme point of it’s county, and constitutes one horn of 295 CAERNARVON. 296 the great bay of Cardigan, called the hundred or promontory of Llyn. In this steril and thinly inhabited track, in¬ dependent of the distant views, he met with little to recompense the toil of the excursion. The principal places he vis¬ ited, or which are to be found, were the poor towns of Pwllheli, Criccieth and the wretched village of Penmorfa. Re¬ turning to Caernarvon, his next object was to explore the wonders of Snowdon ; but storms, peculiar to this uncertain cli¬ mate, greatly frustrated his design. Twice he attempted, in vain, to reach the lake Llanberis,and was obliged to content him¬ self with the direct pass to Beddgelart; entering the great defile of the mountains, soon came in sight of the cataract Es- Gwyrfa, and passed, in silent amazement, under the vast mountains of Moel-Elian, Castel Cidivm, and Moel Mynydd Mazur, the latter of which rose immediately from Cywcllyn lake, near the extremity of which the valley opened, and y Wyddfa, the lof¬ ty peak of Snowdon, towered, in the pride of superiority. A misty sky, and a tem¬ pestuous day again prevented mr. Skrine from attempting to ascend the british alps. The road from Caernarvon to Llan- beris is mostly rugged and unpleasant, ly¬ ing, for half the way, over a flat and bar¬ ren country. But having passed the first or lower lake, Kant Llanberis pre¬ sents some truly grand scenery. The bold and prominent rocks which ascend almost immediately from the edges of the lake, and tower into the sky, cast a pleas¬ ing gloom upon the landscape. The more distant mountains of the vale, embosom¬ ing the moss grown village, with the meadowy flat around it ; are seen retir¬ ing in lines crossing each other behind, in the most picturesque manner, while the intermediate space between the vil¬ lage is filled up with a small lake, in which the mountains which bound it con¬ trast their sombre hue, and render the scene most interesting. 2|m. to Pont Rug ; lion the r. Llanrug ; 2, end of the lower lake; 2, Dolbadern Castle; 2, Llanberis. Two m. on the road to Beddgelart is a house called Glangzuna, which mr. Bing- ley thought one of the most charming re¬ treats in the principality. It is so seques, tered as scarcely to be seen from the road. Jt was lately the seat of the rev. — Rob¬ erts, archdeacon of Merioneth, now the property of Thomas Lloyd, esq., of Shrews¬ bury. Several roman coins, old swords, &c., were found here, from which cir¬ cumstance it is conjectured that the Ro_ mans, while at Segontium, might have re¬ treated hither on some emergency. Few travellers have been so much struck with this place, as mr. Bingley, but few have passed the seat of sir Robert Williams at Kant, without exclamations of surprise in finding so comfortable a residence in a vale so entirely encircled by apparently inaccessible mountains. It is the most complete alpine retreat we have yet dis¬ covered. This place consists of a ver¬ dant lawn, from which ascend on all sides abrupt and towering precipices. Plas Tirion is another mansion in the parish of Llanrug, the property of John Rowlands, of Crug, esq. There are several slate- quarries on Glyn Rhanzuy farm, and Cefn du hill, in this neighbourhood. The slate is brought down in boats to the lower end of Llanberis lake, and thence carried in carts to Caernarvon. The number of the poor in this parish is very inconsider¬ able, not more than 6 or 8. There is no workhouse. The poor-rates do not ex¬ ceed Is 6d. in the pound. There is a day and Sunday school, supported by the con¬ tributions of the parishioners, the num¬ ber of children is from 40 to 50. At a- bout 4m. distance, occurs, in front, a view of Nant Gwyrfai (the vale of fresh wa¬ ter). A range of sloping rocks forms the middle distance. The towering rock of Mynydd Mawr rises behind, on the right. Opposite, is the smooth and verdant mountain of Moel Elian, the frosty hill). Mr. Bingley ascended this hill without much difficulty, and found the prospect from the top surpass his expectations. The rival mountains appeared quite near, and beyond them the whole remaining extent of the promontory of Llyn, as far as Aberdaron. Part of Cywellyn pool is seen just below, from the edge of which the immense Mynydd Mawr rears his rug¬ ged sides: Beyond, one of the Nantlle pools and Llyn Cwnr Ffynnon. South¬ wards is a long range of mountain sum¬ mits and hollows. At some distance the yellow sands ofTraeth Mawr. The dis¬ tant mountains of Merionethshire, close the scene. On the s-e. is a dreary vale, containing a small pool. Beyond, Snowr 297 CAERNARVON. 298 don is easily distinguished. Part of the vale and lakes of Llanberis, with Dolbad- ern castle may be descried. Mr. Bingley descended to the road not far from the ro¬ mantic little village of Beltws or Bettws Garmon, so called from it's church being dedicated to St. Germ anus, who led the Britons to the famous “ Allelulia” victo¬ ry, obtained over the Saxons, at Macs Gar¬ mon, near Mold. About fm. beyond, is a beautiful little cascade and bridge, at a place called Nant Mill. But the majestic Mountain of Mynydd Mazer, and the lof¬ ty Moel Elian on the left, tower so much above it as to make it appear diminutive. Beyond the mill, Snowdon is seen on the left, rearing his pointed summit. The pool called Uyn Cywellyn, 1|m. in extent is on the r. of the road. The scenery at this lake is most perfect: never was a crys¬ tal mirror and stupendous naked rocks more finely contrasted. Snowdon, on the 1. in this approach to Bcddgelart loses much of his grandeur and scarcely appears like himself. From a farm in Cwm Delhi on the 1. of the road, his front is infinitely more imposing. On it’s farther edge, and just under Mynydd Mawr, is Castell Cidwm, i.e. Cidwm’s Fort, a high and steep rock, on the summit of which it is said was once a fortification, as a guard to the entrance of Snowdon. Among the mountains on the r. is a small pool called Llyn y dwarchcn, (the lake of the sod,) on which is a floating island, 8 or 9 yards in length, having a small willow tree grow¬ ing upon it. It sometimes remains near the side, for a considerable time, and then is wafted to other parts of the lake. Distances. Half a m to Segontium and Llanbeblig ; 3|, Pont curnant; 1, Bettws garmon ; 1£, on the left Pies y Nant, a house belonging to sir Robert Williams, bart., and on the r. a small cascade at Nant Mill; i. Llyn Cywellyn ; Snowdon on the 1., John Morton, guide, at a small public-house upon the banks of Llyn cywellyn. Llyn y Dywarchen (the lake of the sod) lies to the r. soon after Llyn cywellyn is passed ; 5, Beddgelart. The road to Bancor is one of the fin¬ est in the kingdom. The views, in every direction are diversified and picturesque. To the r. is Snowdonia and it’s concomi¬ tants ; among which Carnedd Llewellyn and Penmaen Mawr tower in considera¬ ble majesty. The former is only 16 yards lower than Snowdon. On the 1. the An- glesea shore, with it’s numerous inclo¬ sures, and rich plantations, intermingled with the seats of PlasCoch, Plas Newydd, and Plas Larnulan ; and the transparent Menai, opening with all the grandeur of an american river, till hid by the thick woods of Vaenol. The road gradually diverging from the banks of the Menai, an eminence occurs, whence is seen the city of Bangor, distant about 1m. under a rocky hill, watered by a small stream. From Caernarvon, mr. Gilpin passed to Bancor, along the banks of the Me¬ nai, which he describes as beautiful, par¬ ticularly about lord Uxbridge’s seat at Plas Newydd. Llanfair Iscaer, 2)m. PlasLlan- fair,\ m. Moel y don ferry, l^m. Near¬ ly 2m. further on the 1. is Vaenol house, delightfully situated in a noble grove of oaks, the residence of Thomas Asheton Smith, esq. (Near Vaenol is a serpentine ravine of rather more than a mile, extend¬ ing ina direction from the seatothemoun- tains, called Nant y Garth.) lm. beyond is a road to the 1. to Llandysilio, and Ban. gor ferry, lm. and another to the r. to Ban¬ cor, 2m. The road to Llanllyfni skirts the coast, presenting an uninterrupted view of the sea, the mountains called the Rivals■ and the turrets of Caernarvon Castle fad- ing away in the distance. The mountain Ci/gwin shutting up the scene to the I. In passing into the isle of Anglesea, mr. Aikin and his companions walked a- long the beautiful shores of the Menai, which winds in an easy manner through it’s wooded banks, like a large river, for 4m., to Mocl-y-don Ferry. Their entrance into Anglesea is thus described. “ We passed into the island under the shady groves of PLAs-NEWYDn,P/a’j-Gn'yrc, I’las- Llanidan, and Plas-Coch, 4 large mansions the first of which is the residence of lord Uxbridge. The county of Anglesea has a very different appearance from that of the opposite coast of Caernarvon. It is in general flat, with some hills rising here and there, but of inconsiderable height; the land is, for the most part, en¬ closed, and well covered with grass and corn; the soil is but shallow, and lime appears to be the general manure: in¬ deed, it may be made an universal obser¬ vation with regard to North Wales, that wherever lime is to be had, the produce 299 CAERNARVON. 300 both of corn and grass is very abundant, scenery altogether, if possible, exceeded The parts adjacent to the Mcnai are fine- in elegance and majesty what I had before ly wooded, but the trees commonly shrink so much admired between Bangor and from the s-w., and many of them are en- Caernarvon. Snowdon was perfectly un- tirely blighted from that quarter. The clouded, and his red sides, brightened by interior of the island is more naked, the sun, were seen gradually sloping, till but raises much corn, and many cattle they ended in a point far above the tops and sheep. After walking a few m. to ofthe adjoining mountains, each of which the n-w., we turned round to enjoy a had it’s beauty in the disposition of it’s splendid view of the grand chain of the lights and shades, it’s prominences and Caernarvonshire mountains, which we hollows.’’ had just quitted. They extend across the From Caernarvon, mr. Pennant cross¬ county from Penmaen-mawr, toTraeth- cd the Menai to Tal y Foel, in Anglesea; mawr, in one continued chain, whose and thence to Newborough, or more prop¬ outline is varied at irregular intervals erly Rhos-vair, 3m. from the shore, a place by conic peaks, towering above the once the manor of one of the welsh princ- rest; those gradually rise to the summit es. It now subsists by a manufacture of of Snowdon, and again as gradually de- mats and ropes, made of sea-reed grass, cline, till they terminate altogether in John Morgan, an old blind musician, re- the northern horn of Caerdigan bay. As sided at this place, who alone, it is said, we recede from this noble chain of moun. preserved the ancient instrument called tains, the connecting branches are lost, the Crwlh\n use. It is believed to be the o- and only the insulated peaks appear in r t£inal of our present violin. The tone the horizon. Anglesea is so much a thor- of the Crwth is a mellow tenor, very soft oughfare from Ireland, and has so much and agreeable. On the demise of the business of it’s own, that the roads are in Crwth, the- violin made it’s way into general very good, and, what is un- Wales, and is frequently seen, but it is usual in Wales, the traveller often meets not listened to with the same enthusiasm with direction-posts in the divisions of as the harp. If the first rate performer of the road. The face of the island is but the present day, were to be surrounded little interesting to the traveller, tho’ it by an audience of Snowdon mountaineers, affords a rich harvest to the mineralogist, a Telynor passing by, would cause him to We passed through the villages of Ceint be deserted, such charms lie hid in every and Llangefni, (the latter was founded by vibration of a string touched by him. At Cyngar,) and arrived in the evening at Vronclcg in this neighbourhood is an in- Llanerchymedd.” scribed stone, mentioned by Rowlands. To Anglesea, there is a ferry-boat over Llanddwyn parish extends below into the the Menai, (the narrow water) every day, sea, and terminates in a narrow peninsu- whenthe weather will permit. The boat la; almost entirely covered with sand always goes at high water, and, when hills. Upon the peninsula are the ruins Teadytosetout,oneofthemenblowsahorn of the church; and near it the remains in Caernarvon, to collect the passengers, of the prebendal house. Plants The landing-place is at Taly Foel Frc (the near this place; Rnppia maritima, in end of the hill). In an excursion to An- ditches ; Silene maritima, and Arenaria glesea, mr. Bingley was prevented from peploides, near the rocks; Arenaria ten- going round the island by Newborough, ufolia, among the sand upon the island. Aberffraw, and Holyhead, by the sea hav- Crambe maritima, sandy coast, between ing burst abanknear Aberffraw, andcov- I-landdwynandRhuddgaer; Anthyllis vul- ered 1000 acres. He therefore botanised neraria, var. scarlet petals, upon the sand along the Anglesea coast, as far as Moel- banks ; Erigeron acre, between here and y-don ferry, and then took the road lead- Rhuddgaer; Inula crithmoides,saltmarsh- ing to Holyhead by Gwyndy. “From this es. From Newborough, mr. Pennant coast,” says this accomplished and in- made an excursion to Aberffraw, 7m. to the telligent traveller, “ the town of Caer- n. He crossed, at low water, the arm of narvon, with the straits of Menai in front, the sea called MaUtraelh; and rode by the and the high grand mountains in the back church of Llan-Cadwaladr, said to have ground, were strikingly beautiful. The been founded by Cadwalader, last king of 301 CAERNARVON. 302 the Britons. A mile or two farther reached the site of the princely residence called Aberfraw, now reduced to a few poor houses, seated upon the river Ffraw, near a small bay. Near this palace have frequently been found the Glen Naidr or Druid glass rings. Mr. Pennant thinks that this ring, relating to which much vul¬ gar superstition exists, is nothing more than a bead of common glass which the druids pretended to use as a charm. From Newborough mr. Pennant also visited Llanlidan. To Holyhead, on the great road, pro¬ ceed on the e. banks of the Menai strait, to Llanfair iscaer, 3 miles ; (on the 1. pass Plas Llanfair, mrs. Vickars : Ifm. further is Moel y don Ferry with Llanedwen on the opposite side. 2 m. beyond leave Vainol on the 1.) For the remainder of the road see Bangor, and Gwyndy. To Capel Curio, 22m.; 5J to Llandde- iniolen ; near this place is an ancient fort catled Dinas Dinorddwig; 7^, lord Pen- rhyn’s slate quarries; the romantic vale of Nant Frangon; 4§. Liya Ogwen ; 3g Cap¬ el Curio. The usual route is through Bangor to Conwy, which is circuitous. To Snowdon. Those travellers who consult their ease and safety, may ascend this mountain from a cottage bearing the same name and situated on the 1 . of the road from Caernarvon to Beddgelart, a- bout 3 miles from the latter place. A steep down extends nearly to the summit, accessible to welsh ponies. The more hardy pedestrian, who would become ac¬ quainted with the more rugged features of the sovereign, should ascend his bold front from a small farmhouse in Cwm Del¬ hi, 5 mArom Cavbl Curig; which see. EXCURSIONS made by the Rev. W. Bingley. 1. To the Village and Lakes of Llanberis, 10 miles. Carriages can pro¬ ceed only to Cwm y clo ; thence by a boat to be previously bespoke. Dolba- dern castle ; cataract of Caunant Mawr ; on the upper lake a Coppermine; oppo¬ site the village, Giyder Vawr and Glyder Bach ; summit of Snowdon, 4^ miles from Dolbadern castle. The excursion would be more complete from Llanberis through the astonishing pass of Cwm Glas into the beautiful vale of Nant Hwynan, to Bedd¬ gelart, 30 miles distant; and back over Snowdon. 2. To THE SUMMIT OF SNOWDON B Y Dolbadern castle, distant 12 miles. There is a track somewhat nearer by Llyn Cywellyn in the road to Beddgelart. 3. From Caernarvon to Llanrwst returning by the vale of Ffestiniog, Tan- ybwlch, and Beddgelart. By Llanberis or Nant Frangon, to Capel curig, where is a good inn ; Dolwddelan castle, 3 miles out of the road to Llanrwst; Rhaiadr y Wenol; Pont y Pair, near Bettws y Coed; Gwydir; Llanrwst bridge; Eagles Inn. Return by Bettws; falls of Penmachno. 8 miles from Llanrwst, to Penmachno ; 8 to Ffestiniog : cataracts of the Cynfael. Tanybwlch; to Pont Aberglasllyn 8 miles. 1£ miles further is Beddgelart; 4 to Llyn Cywellyn ; 2 to Bettws Garmon; 5 to Caernarvon. 4. To the Pools called Llyniau Nantlle, and Slate Quarries near Llanllyfni. On horseback or on foot, 23 miles in the whole. 5. Upon the Water to the adjacent parts of Anglesea, and Priestholme is¬ land. A small decked cutter, to hold 10 or 12 persons may be had at the Hotel; charge with two men, a guinea a day. C. To Holyhead, the Copper-minfs, and Beaumaris, in the whole 90 miles. Cross the Menai at Moel y Don ferry, 5 miles; 1 mile further Plas Newydd; 2 miles to Llandaniel, 3 to Llanfihan. gel; 3f to Llangefni; to Gwyndy; 3§miles to Bodedern; l^to Llanynghene- di; 31 Holyhead island; 3| to Holyhead. From Holyhead to Amlwch, 20m. the inn only tolerable. From Amlwch to Beau¬ maris, 20 m. 6 m. from Amlwch, pass the extremity of Dulas bay ; 0 m. further, pass Red Wharf bay; 1 m. Pentraeth, a picturesque village, a view of which is given by Grose: near this place is Plas gzvynn. In returning to Caernarvon cross the Menai at Bangor-ferry. For Excursions to Snowdon, see Snowdon. To Dolbadern Castle, on Ihe commencement of an Excursion into Snowdonia, 6 miles, Evans. — Bangor, 9 miles, Lvans; Gilpin. — Llanllyfni, 9 miles, Warner’s 2d. Walk. — and from Dolbadern Castle, 12 miles. — Newborough, 5 miles, thence to Llanlidan, 6 mdes, Pennant. — Beddgellart, 12 miles, Bingley. — Moel y don Ferry, 4miles, Aikin. — Dinas Dindle, 6 miles; Bangor 9 miles; Bnn Gwyn, in Anglesea. 2 miles; back to Bang¬ or, Ilutton. — Pwllheli, 22 miles. 303 CAERNARVONSHIRE. 304 CAERNARVONSHIRE, once formed es with impetuous violence over their part of the region possessed by the peo- rugged beds. The woods which once pie called Ordovices; and after their re- clothed this tract are no more. Cat- duction by the romans the country assum- tie, sheep, and some goats almost make cd the name of Venedotia. Under the up the brief list of it’s rural riches. These territorial power of Roderick the great, are fed during the summer upon the sides it subsequently received the appellation of the mountains, and tended by their of Gwynedd. This district was also cal- owners, who reside during that season in led Arfon, from it’s situation opposite to temporary huts, and make butter and Mon or Mona (Anglesea). This portion cheese. The vales produce a little mead- of the country is interesting from it’s na- ow-grass for hay, which is collected with tural productions and variety of scenery, a kind of sledge, the uneven surface of but still more from the history of it’s po- the ground not allowing the use of wheel litical events. It was in this country carriages. The inhabitants live in a state that the ancient inhabitants withstood the of the utmost simplicity, and manufac- power of unsatiated ambition, long and ture their clothes from their own flocks, desperately contested ; the refuge of in- A liltle oatmeal added to the produce of dependencyand residence of freedom, this their dairies constitutes their food. The county opposed with firmness the sue- prospects around are rude and savage in cessive attacks of Roman, British, Saxon, the highest degree, but contain also a con- Norman and English usurpation. It must siderable mixture of beauty, when the be allowed, notwithstanding, that our es- vales are sufficiently wide to admit of the tablishment under one monarch has con- varieties of wood, water and meadow, tributed to diffuse universal happiness; In some of the lakes are found the char we may say with Vaughan of Hengwrt and gwiniad. Foxes are the principal “ that they were conquered to their gain, wild animals. Many rare plants occur and undone to their advantage.” This inthis county which will be particularised county is bounded on the east by Den- in describing the places or roads where bighshire, from which it is divided by the they occur. Coppermines have been Conwy; the Glas-lljn river separates it wrought in various parts of these moun- from part of Merioneth; the Menai straits tains, and other places in the county af- from Anglesea; and the residue is bound- ford lead, and quarries of stone. The ed by the sea. It’s figure is very irregu- vale of Conwy is a tract equally roman- lar, a great peninsulated point running tic and beautiful. It affords rich pastu- out from it to the s-w. From the extremity rage, cornfields, and groves; forming a of this point, the length is 45m. the pleasing contrast to the region of Snow- breadth exceedingly various; thecircum- don, which frowns over it. The rest of ferencc is 150. It contains, from a late Caernarvonshire lies along it’s extensive survey, 300,000 acres of land, of which sea-coast, which may be traced in the fol- 160,000 only are in a state of cultivation ; lowing order. The promontory of Llan- one city (Bangor), one county to wn (Caer- dudno, or the great Orme’s Head, be. narvon), 10 hundreds, 5 market towns, longing to this county, tho’ across the 71 parishes, 85 ‘3 houses, 41,521 inhab- Conwy, is a fine sheep walk, ending in a itants, sends one member to parliament steep precipice over the sea, the haunt of for the town, and another for the county, various sea-fowl in the breeding season, It is in the province of Canterbury, and and inhabited by the peregrine falcon, diocese of Bangor, and in the N. Wales At the mouth of the river Conwy is the circuit. This county is the most rugged town of that name ; beyond this is the and truly alpine district in Wales. It’s once tremendous precipice of Penmaen- central part is entirely occupied by Snow- mawr, overhanging the sea, now crossed don and concomitant range, extending by a good road. The small city of Ban- from near Conwy in the n e to the shore cor, or. the Menai strait, separating this that bounds Perthdrianroad, including the county from Anglesey, nextsucceeds; and Rhifel ridges. Amid these are very deep not far from it, on the same strait Caer- passes and cwms, forming narrow vallies, narvon. Nothing remarkable occurs on through which numerous streams, issu- the coast till it’s southern extremity in ing from various lakes, rush in some plac- the peninsulated hundred of Uyn. This 305 CAERNARVONSHIRE. CAERPHILLY. 306 is generally flat, tho’ sprinkled with rocky hills. It’s chief produce are oats, barley, and black cattle, of which vast numbers are annually exported. Quantities of fish, especially herrings, are caught round the shore ; and lobsters abound upon it. Many sharp points of land run into the sea, forming bays between. Off the most w. point lies the small town of Bard- sley. The principal town at this end of the county is Pwllheli. The nu¬ merous herds of Goals which frequented the rocky districts of Caernarvonshire are now nearly extinct. They were highly detrimental to the modern im¬ provements in planting, as they ate off the bark and leading branches of young trees. The Myrica gale grows a- bundantly upon the moors of Caernar¬ vonshire. There are many profita¬ ble orchards and gardens abounding with wall-fruit in the vales, but in the greater part of Caernarvonshire all attempts to in- trodee them have proved abortive. From Pont y pridd, 7 miles, Barber; Skrine. -Caerdiff, 7 miles, Malkin ; Manby. - Myrtliyr Tydfiil, 17 miles, Evans. - Newport, Mon. 124: miles, Wyndham; Warner. CAERPHILLY in Glamorganshire, is a neat small town, containing 70 houses and ‘200 inhabitants. It is situated in a broad valley, and surrounded by barren and dark mountains. The chief support of the inhabitants arises from the manufac¬ ture of blankets and stockings. The Castle occupies the centre of a small plain, and presents the idea of a ruined town. It is by far the largest ruin in Britain. The high outer rampart, with it’s massive abutments and frequent tow¬ ers, still in a great measure entire, con¬ veys at once a clear impression of the great extent of the fortress. “In enter¬ ing on an examination of the ruin,” says mr. Barber, “ we passed the barbican, now built up into habitations; and, pro¬ ceeding between 2 dilapidated towers, entered the great area of the castle. A range of building, benc-ath the rampart on our r. once formed the barracks of the gar¬ rison. We then advanced to that pile of superior building, i. e. of citadel, hall, chapel, state, and other apartments, which is generally considered as the cas¬ tle, in distinction from the encircling area and it’s wall. Clambering over the frag¬ ments of another draw-bridge and it’s de¬ fending towers, we entered the first court, which appears to have comprised the citadel. Thence we passed through a large gateway, with several groves for portcullises, to the principal court of the castle. The area of this court is 70 yards by 40. On the s. side is that prince¬ ly apartment, by some considered the hall, and by others the chapel. But which ever it may 'nave been, vestiges of much original beauty appear in the ele¬ gant outline of it’s 4 large windows ; the grand proportions of the chimney-piece, and the light triplet pillars, with arches, which go round the room. The appear¬ ance of mortice-holes in the walls for the ends of beams, at the height of about the middle of the windows, led Camden to suppose that the ceiling was projected thence, and that an apartment above was lighted by the upper portion of the win¬ dows; but surely at a time when sym¬ metry in building was so well cultivated, and where it appears to have been so suc¬ cessfully applied, such a ridiculous contri¬ vance could not have taken place : more probably from those mortices a support was derived for a lofty arched roof, or a gallery. The external staircase-entrance to the hall spoken of by Camden, “the roof whereof is vaulted and supported by 20 arches,” is now rendered nearly im¬ passable by rubbish. Eastward of the hall, is a leaning tower. This bulky fragment of the ruin is between 70 and 80 feet in height, and of a prodigious thick¬ ness. It hangs nearly 11 feet out of the perpendicular, and is only held together by the strength of it’s cement. It has stood in this position for many centuries. The cause must have arisen from a local failure in the foundation, or from the per¬ foration of a mine. A remarkable effect is said to be produced by laying flat upon the back, close to the base, on looking up. Near this part of the ruin a place is shewn called the mint, with the remains of two furnaces for melting metal. From this chamber we ascended a spiral stair-case to the corridor, still in very good preser¬ vation ; which lighted by small windows, and passing round the principal court, formed a communication with the differ¬ ent apartments. The external view of 307 CAERPHILLY. 308 the western entrance of the ruin, with it’s ponderous circular towers venerably- shaded with ivy, is remarkably striking ; and with the remains of it’s drawbridge and defending outwork, may be consider¬ ed as the most entire part of the ruin. An artificial mound some distance off, but within the works of the castle, was most likely used for exploratory purposes. From the great plan of this castle, and there being no direct evidence to the con¬ trary, it’s foundation has been attributed to the Romans; but it sufficiently ap¬ pears, that no considerable part of the present fortress was built by them, as the predatory army of Rhys Fycan took and rased Caerphilly castle in 1221. Thehon. Daines Barrington, attributes the present erection to Edward 1. Sir Richard Hoare thinks that it was built by the Clare fam¬ ily, and that it was afterwards enlarged and fitted up in the magnificent style now pourtrayed to us, by the Despencers. See this opinion elaborately supported in his splendid edition of Giraldus, vol. ii, p. 371, &c. The first mention of this cas¬ tle in the Welsh Chronicle is in the year 1215. In 1217 it was committed by Reg¬ inald de Braose to the custody of Rhys Fychan, who levelled it to the ground. Between the years 1221 and 1223, it was again fortified with the consent of prince Llewelyn by John dc Braose. In 1400 Owen Glendowr had possession of it: (sec also conjectures on the origin of this castle in Malkin, vol. i, page 231 to 244) The following apostrophe in the person of Time may appropriately have a place here. “ My name is Time !— Time the destroyer.' yes, one frown from me rilled yon Tower ; yet, ere the ruin fell, 1 paused ! and left it hanging as thou see’st, to puzzle reasoning reptiles like thyself. Once more this venerable victim view, stupendousGelhi! crumbling into dust! Who reared this mighty fabric.’ prythee ask the sculptur’d stone or legendary tale. Yet these are languid efforts of my arm : where are the boasted Babylonish walls, Palmira’s temple, Balbec’s gorgeous domes ! Egypt’s proud pyramids, when I command, stoop to their base; the pillars of the earth shall shake; the sun and all the host of heaven reel from their spheres; and nature breathe her last. And yet, oh! horror! ’tis decreed by fale That I must fall; ’t is registered in Heaven that Time shall be no more. Absorbed and lost in that wide vorlex which I dread to name, eternity; a sea without a shore! Tremble not mortal at the vast abyss! by me befriended fear not thou my foe 1 My death to thee is life, immortal life; joy without measure, and glory without end!” Caerphilly has lately increased from an obscure village to a well-built lit¬ tle town; and the respectable appear¬ ance of it’s 2 inns may, in a gieat measure be dated from the great increase of the visitants to the castle. Mr. Wyndham remarks that there is a striking transition in the language of Caer¬ philly, when compared with that of Mon¬ mouth, at only 2 miles distance. The buildings, manners, dress, and language of the former are strictly welsh; but adds, that “ the welsh language is sensibly de¬ clining in every place where the connec¬ tion with England is easy ; and possibly, within a century, a traveller may meet with as much difficulty, in his researches after the remains of the welsh language, along the coasts and marches of Wales, as mr. Barrington did in his tour through Cornwall, in pursuit of the cornish, where he found but one old woman, near¬ ly 90 years of age, who could speak it, and but 2 other old women, who could understand her. About a mile to the s-e. of Caerphilly is Van, an ancient house in a ruinous state, formerly a seat of the Lewis’s, ancestors of the earl of Ply¬ mouth. On the road to Caerdiff occurs Thorn¬ hill, an elevation uncommonly grand. The wide plain of Caerdiff affords, for many miles, gratifying prospects of various cultivation, and several villages, the glar¬ ing whitened walls of which abruptly break through their surrounding foliage. The russet hue of an extensive warren, varies the scenery. At the termination of this tract the expansive Severn is de¬ scried, in which the two islands of the steep and/?of Holmes are presented. Far distant, the bold hills of Somersetshire form the back ground. Descending from the higher grounds which command the scenery just mentioned, a good road leads to Caerdiff. The episcopal ruins of Llan- daff may be seen at a short distance on the right. Mr. Evans proceeded over a mountain¬ ous country to Caerdiff, till he entered upon a road leading through thick woods and steep declivities into the vale he had lately left. He compares the roughness and difficulty of passing this road formed 310 309 CAERPHILLY. by the land floods, to the appian way. There is a good road to Pont y Pridd, but in order to gain it, a large part of the way to Caerdiffmust be passed. Mr. Wyndham therefore engaged a guide to conduct him over the mountain of Eg- Iwysilan. He found the prospects thence very extensive, but the descent to the bridge was disagreeable. To Pont y Pool, the road lies over a wild and uninteresting track. The road to Merthyr Tydvil winds through Cvsm Ystrad, but mr. Malkin choose the road over Egluiysilan mountain, which is a horse-path. Energlyn the seat of John Goodrich, esq., is handsomely and well laid out, with woods at the back and sides. The aspect to the s-e. commands a striking view of the plain, hemmed in by mountains, with the august castle of Caer¬ philly under the eye. Beyond a farm house upon the flat top of the mountain, you have Ystrad vale to the r. while the vale of Taff appears on the 1. This district is wild, intermingled with occasional cul¬ tivation and beauty. The undulating line of brushwood in the valley, which over¬ hangs the Romney ; the mansion of Llan- brailach, the cottages of the chapelry of Llanvabon below the mountain on one side, Cefn Hengoed on the other, the well-wooded grounds about Gellygaer in ront; terminating by the peaks of Monuch - leny called the Breconshire Beacons, form- ng part of the chain from Llandilo Vawr o Crickhowel may be instanced. Up- i>n Cefn Gellygaer in the way from Caer- rhilly to Marchnady wayn, mr. Lloyd ob- erved a remarkable monument called Y naen hir, a rude squarish stone pillar a- >out 8 feet high, rather inclining. On he side to which it leans is a small en- renchment inclosing about 6 yards, and n the centre a square area. He reads the nscription Trefoiti or Deffroiti, answer- ng to Dy vrod; latin Dubrotus or perhaps )ubritius, and supposes it a funeral mo- ument. Gough’s Camden, iii, 127. A- ■out 2 miles from Caerphilly, in this di- jection, are several tumuli, in which lave been found burnt bones. Descend- ng the mountain, the road to the 1. lies in ae vale near Gellygaer, remarkable from ( ie battle which was fought after Fitz. ammon's conquest. Up a steep ascent, finding round upon a height, is seen a Quaker’s burial place. Directlv bevond > on the curiously constructed turnpike- road from Merthyr Tydvil to Caerdiff, is a bridge over the Bargoed-TafFriver, at it’s junction with the Taff. Mr. Malkin be¬ ing informed that the direct road to Mer- ther Tydvil was nearly a continued range of mountainous and unrelieved barren¬ ness, he took a circuitous route, and bent his steps near the feeder to the canal, to¬ wards New-Biiclge. At the canal aque¬ duct, an iron-rail way ends, it's length being 10 miles. There are here no less than 18 locks on the canal in the space of one mile. Returning over the aqueduct in the vale of Cynon, the r. bank of that river leads to the village of Aberdare. This vale is equally secluded; but less wild than Ystradyvodwg. About 2 miles from the aqueduct there is on the 1. bank of the Cynon a most luxuriant and ma¬ jestic grove of oaks; beyond is a pictur. esque hollow path overshaded with lofty trees. The road then runs beside the Cynon, the bed of which is shallow. Near this place is an alpine bridge. The valley then opens, the track taking a high¬ er level on the mountain’s side. But 3m. short of the village is a confined, yet most engagingly romantic and beautiful view. It consists of 3 meadows, surrounded by groves of oaks and firs, which completely shut out the world. It is worth while to climb a hill close by for the sake of view¬ ing the country down the TafF. In these wild districts the face of nature is en¬ chanting but the state of accommodation is miserably poor. The diet of the peas¬ ants upon the hills, consists of oatmeal bread, with a relish of miserable cheese, and their beer is worse than none. Their butter and milk are better. Notwith¬ standing these limitations they are cheer¬ ful, affable, and contented. “ I did not visit,” says mr. Malkin, “ either the works of Aberdare or the Hiriean Furnace at 4m. to the n. whose columns of smoke, rising from it’s station at the black and barren extremity of this alpine vale, ob¬ scure and stifle those rural images, pro¬ duced on the imagination by the spor¬ tive creations of nature: such arrange¬ ments are every where similar, and as I had to sec the most extensive and perfect at Merthyr Tydvil, I was glad to escape from the confusion of anvils, the blast of furnaces and the whirl of wheels.” The. church of Aberdare is a mean and taste- 311 CAERPHILLY, less appendage. The act for cutting the canal from the village of Aberdare was obtained 33 Geo. S, and joins the Glamor¬ ganshire canal at the fork, made by the junction of the little river Cynon with the river Taffe. It passes through a beauti¬ ful country. parallel with the river Cynon to Aberdare, being in length 74 m.; the first part is level, but 3 m. next to Aberdare, ithasariseof 41 feet The rail-way from Aberdare, which crosses the Cynon, near the village, and joins the Neath canal at A- bernant, in length m. The road to Merthyr Tydvil lies across the mountain which separates it from Aberdare, pass¬ ing by the Hirvvain furnace. From the summit, which is a rugged and toilsome ascent, the town of Merthyr Tydvil is stretched under the eye. The vale is of considerable width, with a sprinkling of successful cultivation ; the mountains are bleak, barren, and devoid of wood ; over¬ spread with the habitations of masters, agents, engineers and workmen, fixed in the teeth of abundant obstacles. It is sel¬ dom that so populous a district and so bare a soil are found together. To Caerdiff, 8 miles, Barber; Warner; Manby. — Merthyr Tydvil, 17 miles, Malkin. Distances. Bridgwater’s-arms, 3m. Quaker’s yard, 5m. 3f. Black-rock, |m. Merthyr Tydvil, 7m. Back to Caerdiff, Evans. — Pont y pridd, 7 miles, Wyndham. — Pont y pool, 10 miles, Skrine. From Raglan, 13 miles, Barber. - Penhow Castle, 2 miles, Barber. - New passage Inn, 6j miles, Coxe; War¬ ner’s 2d. walk; J. W. Manby. Back from Dinham, 1 mile, Coxe. From CaldicotCastle, 2 miles, Donovan; Evans; Wyndham; Skrine; Warner. CAERWENT or Caergwentthe city of Gwentland, the Venta Silurum of the Romans, once garrisoned by the 2d Au¬ gustine legion, now an inconsiderable village in Monmouthshire, occupies a gently inclining plane in a low situation. It is still partialy environed with the o- Tiginal roman walls. From these and the remains of others, the form of this an¬ cient city may be traced. These fortifi¬ cations form an oblong parallelogram similar to that of Caerleon, the dimen¬ sions of which are 505 yards by 390, with the corners a little rounded; a figure fre¬ quent in roman military works, called terilata castra. All the sides except the . CAERWENT. 312 southern, were defended by a deep foss* The height of the walls appear to have been from 12 to 24 feet. The thickness at bottom is 12, at the top not less than 9 feet. The facings were formed of squar¬ ed limestone, but most of them have been taken away; the interior is composed of pebbles and rough stones, imbedded in strong cement called grout-work. The southern wall is nearly entire, and in¬ cludes 3 pentagonal stone bastions, each displaying 5 faces of an octangular tower. The western wall is nearly 20 feet high, in good preservation. A frag¬ ment of the wall, nearly 20 feet in length and 12 high, has fallen unshattered near the southern angle. Some authors have considered the angular bastions as deci¬ sively in favour of a norman origin, while others have maintained that the semicircu¬ lar bastions originate in the saxon era. Some have conjectured that the building of the town took place under the lower roman empire, as flanking prejections, they say, were not in use before that pe¬ riod. Mr. Barber thinks it just to sup¬ pose that those which are observable at Caerwent were added after the general embattlement. “ Where the facings of the walls have been removed, the pecu¬ liarity of roman masonry is sufficiently obvious: the zig-zag or herring-back form is observable; and were there no other vestiges as a clue of enquiry, this mode of building would almost lead to a decision. The Church, with it’s high embattled tower, is a conspicuous object from the adjacent parts. It consists of a tower, a nave, and a chancel, and had once 2 aisles. The view from the yard is agreeable. Numerous remains of the Ro¬ mans have been discovered here, consist¬ ing of coins, fragments of columns, sta¬ tues, sepulchral stones, and tessellated pavements. Mr. Strange has given an account in Archaeologia, vol. 5. p. 58, accompanied with an engraving of a curi- ous pavement which he discovered within the walls. This has since been destroyed. A Tasselated or Mosaic Pavement, form¬ erly much admired, is in an orchard be¬ hind a farmhouse. It is 21J feet in length and 18 in breadth. The pieces of which the pavement is composed are nearly square, and about the size of a common die. These are of various colours, blue, white, yellow, and red; the first and sec- 313 CAERWENT. 3H ond are of stone, and the yellow and red of terra cotta. It was probably the floor of the Praetorium. Mr. Wyndham ex- mined this pavement about the year 1768, and says, “ the whole composition is so elegant and well executed, that I think it has not been surpassed by any mosaic pavement which has been discovered on this, or even the other side the Alps. In my opinion, it is equal to those beautiful pavements which are preserved in the palace of the king of Naples at Portici. I am strongly inclined to think that it is of the same age of Agricola.” In the year 1777, mr. Wyndham again examined this pavement, and says, “ The original level was perfectly preserved ; it had a border edged with the greek scroll and fret, and scarcely a stone was missing.” On the discovery of this pavement, a building was erected to shelter it from the weather, by order of the proprietor, mr. Lewis, of St. Pierre. Afterwards, the occupier wanting a roof to his brew-house, took the liberty of removing that which cover¬ ed the pavement. In consequence of which depredation, this curiosity became so broken up that a small portion only of the tesserae remains, and those are so overgrown with grass as scarcely to be distinguished. Mr. Lewis of St. Pierre is no more; what motive may actuate his successor has not been ascertained. In the grounds belonging to the Rev mr. Williams, has lately been discovered, under a superficial crust ofearth, another tesselated pavement. At the distance of a few yards, the fragment of a noble cap¬ ital, and shaft of a pillar, seem to indicate the remains of a roman temple or other majestic edifice. The portion of the pil¬ lar shaft, a massive fragment, ornament¬ ed with foliations, at present is one of the supporters of a wheat stack 1 At Caerwent, mr. Barber projected an excursion, comprising the six castles mentioned by the author of “ Secret Me¬ moirs of Monmouthshire,” as surround¬ ing the forest of fVentwood, namely, Din- ham, Penhow, Pencoed, Lanvasches, Llanvair, and Castrogy or Striguil. This forest or rather Chase, was formerly of great extent; it now includes nearly 2170 acres of land, thickly covered with tim¬ ber-trees and underw'ood. A house call¬ ed the Lodge and a few cottages are the only buildings within this district. It is the property of the duke of Beaufort, and was long contended for by his grace’s pre¬ decessors. In Roger’s Secret Memoirs is a circumstantial account of this liti¬ gation. A bridle-road, extending to Shirt Newton, conducts the traveller to Din- ham. The road to Caldecot Castle lies across a fruitful country, pleasingly va¬ ried with woods and pastures. To Penhow Castle the traveller cross¬ es the small rivulet of Nedern, on the western side of Caerwent, and the road conducts him through a tract of fertile country pleasingly diversified. Mr. War¬ ner ascended to this castle from the sign of the Rock and Fountain, near the 8th mile-stone from Newport, up the hill which rises immediately opposite to it. The view from this elevation he men¬ tions as being exceedingly fine. Others have preferred the road which leads from the turnpike opposite to the sign of the Unicorn, tho’ rough, narrow and shad¬ ed ; the opening from which presents a barren aspect, but the distance is diver¬ sified by a village, cottages, the Bristol channel. Holmes islands, ice. Mr Cox rode over corn fields by the side of the e. wall, to Dinham ; but find¬ ing nothing in this excursion that was interesting, he returned to Caerwent; and through the opening of the walls which formed the w. gate, he gently descended to the Nedern brook, which rises near Striguil Castle in the border of Went- wood crossing it over a stone bridge, he followed the course of the Julia strata f vestiges of which he discerned, especially at the 6th mile-stone, and in a field close to the road, and near the 4 lanes. The road runs in a valley, forming a narrow pass, once commanded by Penhow Cas¬ tle. Here he found a quiet and comfort¬ able inn, the sign of the Rock and Foun¬ tain, whence he made several excursions. Quitting the Newport-road at Caer¬ went, mr. Skrine visited Llanvair Cas¬ tle. To Caerleon 9 miles, Wyndham ; Evans. — Dinham, lj mile, Coxe; J. T. Barher return¬ ed from Penhow Castle, to Caerwent, 2 mile;, thence to Caldecot Castle, 1 J miles. — Llanvair, I 5 miles, Warner; Skiine. — Caerleon, after returning from Dinham, a- long the course of the roman road, which «as called 316 CAERWYS. called Julia Strata, by way of Fenhow Castle, Malkin _ Penhow Castle 3§ miles, Donovan ; War¬ ner’s 2d. Walk ; J. W. Manby, — Newport, 11 miles. From Mold, 15 miles, Pennant; Warner. - Denbigh, 10 miles, Wyndham. CAERWYS or CAERGWYS, is a small borough-town in Flintshire, formerly a place of great consequence, but accord¬ ing to the returns made to parliament in 1801, contained in 162 houses, and 773 inhabitants. It derives it’s name from caer, a fortified city, gwys, summons; it having been a roman station, and seat of judicature. The assize, or great sessions for the county of Flint was held for sever¬ al centuries at this place, but it’s magni¬ ficence is now extinct. “ Stat magni nominis umbra.” The place exhibits a roman plan, the streets crossing each oth¬ er at right angles ; and numerous copper coins of different emperors also were dis¬ covered in a field near the town. There also existed an upright stone bearing a latin inscription, “ HicjacetMulierBo . . . Obiit . . . .” This stone measured 4f. 6in. in height, and 3 in breadth. It has been remov¬ ed to mr. Pennant’s garden at Down¬ ing. A tumulus is near the site, and numbers more are scattered round the vi¬ cinity. In subsequent ages, this town was the Athens of N. Wales, where a kind of British Olympics were performed, it being the seat of the Eisteddfod, or ses¬ sions of the bards and minstrels; a thea¬ tre where the british bards poured forth their extemporaneous effusions, or awak¬ ened their harps to melody, in trials of skill instituted by law, and held at this place with great form and ceremony ; the spot is called Coed Edwyn, near Caerwys, once the Eleia of Cambria. It was enact¬ ed during the reign of GryfFydd ap Cynan, in the time of Henry 1, and king Stephen, that no person should follow the profes¬ sion of bard or minstrel, but those who bad regularly graduated at the Eisteddfod, held every 3 years. They were not to degrade themselves by following any oth¬ er occupation, were prohibited from in¬ vading each other’s province, and the re¬ muneration of their services fixed by a legal tariff. See this subject enlarged in “Beauties of Eng.” vol. 17, p. 700—707. These meetings were held every 3 years, by legal commission. In the year 1798, an attempt was made to restore this literary congress, by the Gwyneddigion so¬ ciety, (an association for the encourage¬ ment of welsh literature.) The company after the ancient notice of a year and one day met in the town hall of Caerwys. The candidates for prizes were 20 bards, 18 vocal performers, and 21 harpers. The thesis was “ The love of our country, and the commemoration of the celebrated Eisteddfod, held at the same town, and under the same roof, as that by virtue of a commission from queen Elizabeth.” The first day was spent in reading and comparing the poetic works of the differ¬ ent candidates for the Cadair, or Chair ; the 2d was occupied in hearing the vocal and instrumental performers exhibit their respective talents ; and on the 3d, the prizes were adjudged, the nominal hon¬ ours conferred, and the assembly dismis¬ sed. The compositions produced were numerous and animated. The judges de¬ cided in favour of Robert ap Dafydd, of Nantglyn, in Denbighshire,knownamong the bards by the name of Robin Ddu o Nantglyn. The next to him in point of merit, was Thomas Edwards o Nant. Robert Foulks, of St. Asaph, was declar¬ ed to be the pencedd dafod, or chief vo¬ cal performer: and Wm. Jones, of Gwy- then to be the pencerdd dant, or the chief harper. Triennial assemblies have been held at Aberfraw, the royal seat of the princes of N. Wales, in Anglesea; at Di- nevawr, the royal castle of the prince of S Wales, in Caermarthenshire; and at Math- rafel, the royal palace of the princes of Powys, in Montgomeryshire. At Pen y bawn, an elevation about a mile on this side of Holywell, a picture of prodig¬ ious extent and variety greets the behold¬ er. Arran, Cader Idris, and Snowdon, are easily distinguished among the thou¬ sand hills of Merioneth and Caernarvon¬ shire. Holywell appears to the e.j be¬ yond it the rivers Dee and Mersey, back- by the Lancashire coast. To the s-e., is seen a part of Chester. To St Asaph, 7 miles, Warner. — Holywell,5 miles, Wyndham. Mr. Pennant’s first Excursion ended at this vil¬ lage. 318 CALDECOT CASTLE. From Caerwent, 1^ miles, Darber. - ew Passage, 2 miles, Evans ; Cox, Don¬ ovan; SLrine, Warner. From Striguil Castle, (through Shirenewton, Mounton, Chepstow) 14 miles, Wyndham. CALDECOT CASTLE, in Monmouth¬ shire, is situated in an undiversified swampy plain, called Caldecot Level, or vale ofTroggy. Viewed from an ele¬ vation in the approach, the towers and citadel appear sunk and undistinguished from the curtain wall of the fortification ; but on a nearer inspection, the ruin rises into importance; and the aspect of it’s chief entrance, a large gothic gateway guarded by 2 massive projecting towers, is truly grand. The light gray masonry of this entrance is agreeably relieved by a profusion of ivy, overspreading nearly the whole of one tower, and throwing the broad shadow of it’s pendant foliage up¬ on part of the other. Within the portal on the south side the grooves of 2 port- cullisses are apparent. There arc holes also in the arch, probably intended lor pouring down melted lead upon the be- seigers. The w. side has also round tow¬ ers; but the 3 remaining sides have square ones at their terminations. On enter¬ ing the court, there appears some remains of the baronial hall, and the foundations of other buildings, within the area of the walls, are apparent. A small artificial mount at the n.e. angle of the ruin, sus¬ tains the citadel, a lofty round tower; to which last resort of the garrison a ready communication seems to have been con¬ ducted on the walls, from thedifferent tow¬ ers and other parts of the fortress; the whole of which is surrounded by a broad and deep moat.'—J. T. Barber. The style is nor- man; the ruins considerable ; the form is an irregular pentagon, 2 of the sides being those of a square. The early history of this castle is uncertain : some have con¬ jectured that part of it was built by Har¬ old ; and indeed a round tower on the s- w. side of the castle, with a circularly arched entrance, bears a saxon character; but the general architecture of the build¬ ing is gothic. Dugdale relates that in 1221, Humphrey, earl of Hereford, did homage and had livery of this castle ; the 'ancestors of the Bohun family were early possessors; and on the assasination of the 'earl of Hereford, in 1397, the castle was peizedon by the crown, but w as restored to the son, by Henry 4; at his death, it became the property of the earl of Stafford by marriage; and on the division of the estates among the Bohun family, it was retained by Henry 6, afterwards it belong¬ ed to Edward 4, who granted it to lord Herbert, of Raglan, afterwards created earl of Pembroke; it then reverted to Henry 6; and was again inherited by Ed¬ ward 4; Richard 3 returned it to the duke of Buckingham, adescendent of the earl of Stafford ; but when both the duke and his son were beheaded for rebellion, the castle was added by Henry 8 to the dutchy of Lancaster, from which it was leased by the earls of Worcester, during the reigns of Elizabeth, James 1, and Charles l,and is now held by C. H. Leigh, esq. The entrance and front of this cas¬ tle have withstood the attacks of the sea¬ sons and the caustic of time, exhibiting a venerable fortress. It was evidently built in different ages, as both Saxon and Norman characters are still visible. The structure has been surrounded by a moat, and the remains of the keep, and contigu¬ ous parts may easily be descried. The moat probably was filled from the river Troggy, which is said to have been navi¬ gable up to Caerwent, once a mart of some consequence. Caldecot church is an extensive and highly ornamented gothic structure, at present strangely dispropor- tioned to the scanty flock which it has to fold. It consists of a nave, a side aile to the n. with a massive tower in the mid¬ dle, and a chancel. The style is gothic, the nave is separated from the side aile by 5 pointed arches or clustered piers; the windows arc ornamented gothic, and contain several remains of painted glass, principally coats of arms. Upon the out¬ side of the wall, over the s. door is a small figure of the virgin to whom it was dedi¬ cated. To Caerwent the traveller passes the pretty village of Crick, situated near the junction of 4 roads which lead to Porth- skewydd, Shire Newton, St. Pierre, and Caerwent. The last of these roads is said to be the Via Julia of the Romans, and many hewn stones and traces of sol¬ id masonry of the foundation of the cause¬ way may yet be perceived. On the road to the New-Passace is passed the Nevern brook, and soon after the small hamlet of Porthsktwydd 01 Port- CALDECOT CASTLE. CANN-OFFICE. 320 scewit, a name probably derived from portiscoed, or the part under the wood. At this place is the ancient encampment called Sudbrooke or Southbrook, upon the verge of a cliff, rising from the Severn Sea. The form is a semicircle opening towards the water. On the land side it was defended by a triple rampart of earth and 2 ditches. The prevailing opinion respecting the use of these works is that it was intended by the Romans to defend their vessels lying in the pill beneath, and to keep up a communication between their naval station upon the opposite shore near King-road. A- small Chapel in ruins, stands near the sea, upon the outside of the great rampart, supposed to have at¬ tached to some contiguous mansion. In Powell’s History of Wales, it is said that Harold, after taking part of S. Wales from prince Gryffydd, built a magnificent house or Castle at Portskewydd. This spot was formerly washed by the sea, which has since receded upwards of a mile. To the New Tassa^e, 2 miles, Barber. Back to the New Passage, Cox. To Caerwent,2 miles, Donovan; Evans; Wynd- liam; Skrine; Warner. From Llanvair, Mont. 7 miles, Evans. - Mallwyd, II miles, Skrine. CANN-OFFICE, or the Inn of Cann, in Montgomeryshire, takes it’s name from a religious house, probably a seat of ju¬ risdiction, in the early times of the Brit¬ ons, and some druidic remains in the vi¬ cinity favour this etymology. The accommodations at the inn here are said to be very indifferent. The road to Mallwyd, consists of deep pitches and abrupt risings; andthere is one considerable declivity called the Bvilch o Edwyn. Passing this abrupt and difficult descent, the road for several miles lies over a flat morass, abounding with the carnation, the Eriophorum polystachion, the Melica cxrulea, and the 4 Androme¬ da polifolia. The great extent of Rushy- moor, and Heathy-bog, excite the idea of dreariness. These wilds of Merioneth furnish the traveller with human nature almost in it’s rudeststate.—Evans. A mile to the s-w. of Cann office, is the village of Llangadvan. About one third p art of this district is an uncultivated waste, because the value of neat bog seems to be unknown except for fuel. What an acquisition would a piece of turbary be thought by an English farmer, to manure his other soils with.—See Lord Dundonald’s Chem¬ ical Agriculture, page 110. No minerals have been found hereabouts, except a few specimens of copper ore, which were dug up in the township of Coed Tatog, on the land of Robert Lloyd, esq., of Oswes¬ try. Upon the common of Craig y go, be¬ ing the n. side of the same hill may be seen traces of mining ; and at the foot of that declivity, facing Llanmihangel, there is a cave called Ogof Dolanog , but so nar¬ row that a man cannot go far into it; which is the case in most roman mine-works, of which this is probably one. Llangadvan has 7 townships ; i. e. Tre’r llan, Moelfeli- artli, Bryn-gaeddan, Blawtty, Cyffin, Caw. ndd, Maes-llemyslen. The pation saint of Llangadvan is Cadvan, son of Eneas- lledwyr, of Armorica. Gwyndav hen, of Little Britain, was his chaplain in the monastery of Bardscy. St. Cadvan lies buried at Tywyn Merionydd; but his tomb¬ stone with an inscription, has been sacri¬ legiously removed from the church-yard, by consent of the vicar, to a grotto, dark as Erebus, belonging to a gentleman in the neighbourhood. The church of this place is dedicated to his memory, and his feast is kept on the first of November, The rectory or glebe-house, was burnt down by the rebels, when Vavasor Powell came to sequester the benefices of the clergy in Montgomeryshire, about the year 1645; and which has not been re¬ built. In the church-yard is a well call¬ ed Ffynon Gadvan, near which was, a few years since, a heap of huge stones suppos¬ ed to be the ruins of a building over it. At Cann-office is a celebrated tumulus, be¬ ing 70 yards in circumference, measuring along the bottom of the moat. There is another smaller, near Llysyn. Near Ponl y llogel are two cams or Carneddau, of dif¬ ferent dimensions ; the largest is at least 60 feet in diameter, and in the middle a- bout 7 feet deep. Some years ago, when a great part of this cam was carried off, to build Llwydiarth park- wall, the workmen came to a stone chest, placed in the cen¬ tre of the heap, and covered with a very large stone, which for some time they could not remove ; atone end was found a vessel containing burnt bones and ash¬ es. The chest also contained 2 skeletons, 321 CAPEL the head of the one laid at the feet of the other. ToMatlwyd, 11 miles, Evans. — Llanvair, Mont. 7 miles, Skrine. From Cemioge, 3| miles. - Caernarvon, 30 miles, Hutton; Bingley. - Llanrwst, 7 miles, Aikin; Pennant. -Llanberis, 8 miles, Hutton. CAPEL CURIG, consists of a few cottages and a chapel, situated between Llanrwst and Caernarvon, in the most southern part of Llandegai parish; so called from Saint Curig it’s patron. It is a chapel of ease, intended, doubtless, to accommodate the inhabitantsofthemoun. tainous extremities of the parishes of Llan¬ degai, Llanllechid, Trefriew, Llanrhoch- wyn, Llanrwst and Dolwyddelen, which extend near to this place. The church is endowed by queen Anne’s bounty, and served by the minister of Dolwyddelen. The parishioners of Llandegai are not¬ withstanding bound to keep it in repair. An annual fair is held here for sheep, Sep. 28, where lord Penrhyn first built a small but comfortable inn, from a design by mr. Wyatt. This has been greatly en¬ larged and furnished in a very superior manner. It affords many comfortable and some elegant apartments, with good stabling, &c. It is covered, both on the roof and sides with fine blue states. It’s situation is naked but it commands a very fine combination of mountains, lakes, rocks, and ornamented grounds. The garden is well disposed; the prospect from the terrace, and the alcove singular¬ ly pleasing. Beyond the lakes immedi¬ ately in front rises the biforked summit of Snowdon, in his most dignified form- A pleasure-boat is kept upon the lake. The vale of Capel Curig is bounded by Snowdon and his surrounding mountains, affording a most picturesque landscape. Here is that variety of wood and water, of which many of the welsh vales are defec¬ tive. “ Every curious and contemplative observer of the sublimities of nature will certainly be happy in knowing that the very centre of Eryri has been rendered accessible even to carriages, by a continu¬ ation of the road through the romantic yale of Nant Frangon to Capel Curig. •rom this spot the recesses of Snowdonia 12 CURIG. 322 may be traversed at leisure, and with the satisfaction of having within reach the noon day repast, and the evening retire¬ ment.”—From a note to “ Beaumaris- bay,” a poem. Upon moist heaths and turfy bogs near Capel Curig grows the Lycopodium inundatum. Prom Capel Curig, Snowdon and all his sons, with the contiguous mountains, burst atonce full in view, marking this the finest approach to our boasted Alps. The boundaries of this vale are on one side, the base of the crooked mountain, Moel siabod; on the other, Glyder bach. The middle is varied by two 'small lakes ; at some distance beyond, near Pont y gwryd, mr. Pennant, ascended the Glyder ; noted by the editor of Camden, for the singular disposition of the rocks. The ascent proved steep and laborious, covered with loose fragments of rocks. The area, was occupied with groups of columnar stones, of vast size, from 10 to 30 feet long, lying in all directions. Many of the stones had shells bedded in them; and mr. Pennant says, he found several pieces of lava. He thinks, therefore, that this mountain has been a wreck of nature, flung up by some mighty internal convulsion ; lor had they been the settled strata, they would have retained the regular appearance. One side of this mountain is formed into a gap, with sharp rocks, pointing upwards, one above the other, to a great height. In the midst of a vale, far below, rises the singular mountain Trifaen, assuming on this side a pyramidal form, naked, and ve- ry rugged. Passed over a plain, nearly a mile broad, called V' JVaen Oer, (the chil¬ ly mountainous flat). Observed from the edge, in a tremendous hollow, Llyn Bock Lheyd, or the lake of the grey coat; and in the bottom of the valley, near the foot of the Trifaen, Llyn Ogwen. From Waen- oer, made a hazardous decent to Cwm bochllwyd, and thence to Llyn ogwen. The source of the river Ogwen is this lake, which after a course of 12 miles through lord Pcnrhyn’s property, is lost in the Menai, near the ruins of Capel Ogwen. The way from that place into the valley, or rather chasm of Nant Frangon, is call¬ ed Ben glug. On one side, in a deep hol¬ low, formed under fallen rocks, was once the hiding place of Rhys Coch u’r Eryri, Rhys the Red, of Snowdon; a mountain 323 CAPEL bard, patronised by Robert ap Meredydd a partizan of Glyndwr, an outlawed chief¬ tain, of whose fortunes he partook. The Trefaen, from this bottom, makes a sin¬ gular appearance, resembling a human face, reclined backward. Begin another hard ascent to Cwm Idwal, infamous for the murder of a young prince of that name. Upon the rocks grows the Cyathea incisa. Near this place is a quarry, noted for ex¬ cellent hones. A new and greater toil is to be undergone in ascending from Cwm Idwal, to the heights just described. The ■way lies beneath that vast precipice Cas¬ te! y Geifr, the castle of the goats. A stream of stones, each of a large size, points towards the cwm, which require much activity and bodily strengthtoclam. ber over. Observe, on the right, a stu¬ pendous split rock, called Twll-du, or the devil’s kitchen; a horrible gap, in the centre of a great black precipice, extend¬ ing in length about 150 yards ; in depth about 100; and only six wide; perpen¬ dicularly open to the surfaceof the mount¬ ain. Among these rocks grow. Gallium boreale, Piantago maritima, Arenariaver- na, Adoxa moschatellina, Thalictrum al- pinum T. minus, Rhodiola rosea, Asple- nium viridc. Polypodium phegopteris; in the cleft, Rumex digynus ; in the up¬ per part of the cleft, Gnaphalium dioi- cum; in the upper part of the chasm, Saxifraga nivalis. In Llyn Idwali and Llyn Ogwen grow Lobelia dortmanna and upon the contiguous mountains An- thericum serotinum. The watersof Llyn- y cwm, impetuously rush through it’s bot¬ tom. Reach the Glyder vawr, and pass by the edge of Clogwyn da ymhen y Glyder, as dreadful a precipice as any in Snowdonia, hanging over the waters of Llyn idwal . This neighbourhood is of great note a- mong botanists for rare plants. As the Eriophorum vaginatum, and E. poly, stachion; in peat bogs the Melica caeru- iea; upon the mountains around, Poacoe- sia. The prospect from Glyder vawr is very grand, Snowdon is seen to great advantage; the deep vale of Llanber- is, and it’s lakes, Nant Frangon, &c. &c. The plain which forms the top is strangely covered with loose stones, like the beach of the sea; in many pla¬ ces one crossing the other, in all direc¬ tions, and entirely naked; others lie in CURIG. 324 , groups, almost erect, sharp pointed and in sheaves. The elements seem to have warred against this mountain; rains have washed, lightnings torn, the very soil has deserted it,and the winds make it the con¬ stant objectof their fury. The shepherds style it Caernedd y gwynt, the eminence of tempests. This mountain is connected with the lesser Glyder by the Wain oer: the traveller, therefore, has choice of ways to these mountains. The most preferable, for ease, is the following road into the vale of Llanberis, Pass by a rugged brow called Rhiw y Glyder, noted for it’s variety of plants. Thence de¬ scend by Oleu fawr, soon after visit the small lake called Llyn y Cwm, noted for Giraldus’s tale of the fiih it yielded, be¬ ing monocular, wanting the left eye. To make amends for the pool being without fish, the botanists will find in it the Lo¬ belia dortmanna, Subularia aquatica, Iso- etis lacustris; and not far distant, Juncus trifidus, Hieracium alpinum, Rubus saxa- tilis, Solidago virgaurea, (3. In this de¬ scent, leave on the right Glyder vawr, and Glyder vach, part of the boundaries of Nant Ber is, and arrive in the vale by Caun- ant yr Esgar or the dingle of the enemy. “ Most or even all of these high mountains, we are well assured (both from history and tradition, also by visible appearances of roots, fibres, and often whole trunks of ! trees dug out of the ground,) were once covered to the very summits with woods, penetrable only to those, who daily haunt¬ ed them. We may conclude too that they were inhabited to a considerable height, from the situations of walls, enclosures and appearances of plowed ridges; and probably the regularity in which some huge stones are placed may be attributed to the power of superstition aided by hu¬ man art, rather than to shocks and con¬ vulsions in nature of which no records exist. A species of marcasite called spar, and by the country people Cerrig- grisial, or crystal stones, may here and there be found. It has been noticed un¬ der the titles of Caernarvon and Llan¬ beris that the easiest ascents to the sum¬ mit of Snowdon are from a cottage named Snowdon and from Dolbadern Castle, but the more hardy pedestrian, intent on be- / ing acquainted with the rugged features of the sovereign, should ascend his bold 325 CAPEL front from the small farm house in Cwm Delhi, 5m. from Capel Cubic on the Beddgelart road. This achievement can only be performed on foot, but amply re¬ pays the toil of ascending a succession of precipices, relieved only by the chrystal lakes which may in this route be explor¬ ed. This expedition would be greatly facilitated by a small boat stationed upon each of the principal lakes, in which the adventurer might paddle himself to and from the opposite shore, thus avoiding a circuitous march, frequently interrupted by morasses. For this purpose the more professed mountaineers sometimes carry a coricle with them. After leaving Capel Curig for Dol- wyddelan Castle proceeding about 2 miles, the traveller should take the road to the right. Having advanced from Capel Curig to Llanberis, four miles, the road divides, the left is the road to Beddgelart, the right leads through an astonishingly ro¬ mantic pass called Bwlch y Gwyddyl, to the vale of Llanberis. [see Llanberis.] The rocks on both sides soar to a vast height. On the right the mountains are in many places covered with upright co¬ lumnar rocks, the figure of which is regu¬ larly pentagonal, with one of the sides much smaller than the rest. A lane be¬ tween hedge-rows introduces Llanberis. A new turnpike-road is completed to Beddgellart. This drive exhibits a wonderful variety of sublime scenery. The new road is excellent, and conveys the traveller amid Snowdonia along the banks of several beautiful lakes. The new road to Ceric y Druidion runs upon the southern bank of the Lug- wy to Betties y Coed, whence lies on the way the grand falls of the Co may. Near a new bridge, upon rising ground is the re¬ sidence of Robert Mcyrick Humphries, esq. the river Colwyn, running below, on the banks of which are extensive planta¬ tions. This vale appears sometimes in deep ravines, and sometimes in well wooded dells. On advancing to Cerni- oce and Ceric y druidion, the road lies across a moory plain, in tolerable cultivation. This being now the great irish road, the inhabitants of some poor cottages have acquired a habit of men- ✓ CURIG. 326 dicity. The children in particular follow- carriages as they advance on risingground, and in a whining tone utter something like “a penny to buy shoes.” On the way to Cernioge, mr. Hutton passed Bettusy Coed (the station in the wood), the road running beside the Llug- wy for five miles, and is enclosed by a range of mountains on each hand. A walk to the right, up these banks, produc¬ es some wonders. The rocks and the river seem to contend which should most delight the traveller. About midway is the famous Rhaiadyry Wenol, ahill of rocks in the bed of the river, over which the water precipitates with the utmost vio¬ lence. Leaving th'd wonderful objects of rfature at Pont y Rhydlanvair, mr Hut¬ ton was obliged to travel the next five miles through an old british-road, full of turnings, which brought him into the great road to Pentre Voelas ; thence he passed through Cernioge. Campanula hederacea grows abundantly beside the path descending to Rhaiadyry Wenol. Llanrwst is full 8m. from Capel Cu¬ rig; Rhaiadyr y Wenol, is 3£m. Bettws and Pont y par, are 5m. Some travellers choose to make a circuit to Llanrwst by visiting Dolwyodelan Castle, 6 m. Rhaiadyr y wenol, (3 m. Pont y pair, lm. Bettws, |m. Llanrwst, 3|m. making an excursion of 17 milts. The Great-road hence to Bancor lies ver a common to Cguien pool, 4m. Bryn - derwen, the residence of-Greenfield, esq. lies 3Jm. on the r. on the 1 . Og-jccn- bank, a romantic villa of lady Penrhyn ; and about £m. further to the 1. is the great slate quarry now belonging lady Penrhyn. Llandegai, 9 miles. On the r. Caslell Penrhyn, the elegant residence of lady Penrhyn. A little short of Bangor on the r. is Port Penrhyn, Bancor, lm. None, it is supposed, have penetrated to Capel Curig, from more populous and more cultivated scenes, to examine the grand and savage part of nature’s va¬ garies, who will omit at least an excur¬ sion to the bold shores and cataract of Llyn Ogxen, lying 7m. towards Bangor. In approaching this lake the mountain TriJ'acn, capped by two pieces of rock, appears to soar into the clouds. Having- passed the lake, theentranccto Nant Fran, gon, may be examined but not described. 327 CAPEL CURIG. CARDIGAN. 328 the romancing pen of a Radcliffe could not overcharge a description of a deep chasm at the foot of rock and mountain, rude and stupendous to the highest de¬ gree. Neither should a wall of half a mile along the tolerable road to the 1. of the gothic cottage be omitted, since it leads to the awe-impressing solitude of Llyn Jdwal, a small lake enclosed within stupendous perpendicular rocks. To Dolwyddelan Castle, 6 miles, Bingley. — Llanberis,8 miles, Pennant; Aikin. — Cemioge by way of Rhaiader y Wenol, 17 miles, Hutton. — Bangor, 14 miles. — Llanrwst, 8 miles. — Cerigy Druidion, 19 miles. From Haverfordwest, 26 miles, Barber. - Newport, 11 miles, Barber; Evans; Wyndham; Skrine. - Newcastle in Emlyn, 10 miles, Malkin; Skrine. - Aberearon,22 miles, Warner; Wyndhatn’s 2d. tour. CARDIGAN (in Welsh chronicles Ab- erteifi) is a neat respectable town, tho’ many of the streets are narrow and steep ; seated near the n. bank of the river Teivi, near it’s junction with the sea. It’s name is supposed to be derived from Caredig, son of Cynedda Wledig, and the first king of Caredigion. The riv¬ er is navigable for ships of small burden up to the quay, which enables the inhab¬ itants to carry on a brisk trade with Ire¬ land. The number of vessels registered at the port is 292, their tonnage 10,097, and the number of seamen employed is 929. The largest vessel is 232 tons, the smallest 15. The Bridge is very an¬ cient, placed not so high up the river as a former one. It consists of 7 arches. An uncommon number of coracles are upon this river. The principal Inn is said to be the Black-lion. This town, tho’ small, is governed by a mayor, 13 aider- men, and as many common council-men. At the end of the Broad-street, is the Jail, erected at the expense of the county, in 1793, by Nash. It is handsomely built, with a chapel. The building former¬ ly used for this purpose is converted into a poor-house. The town was once wall¬ ed ; incorporated by Edw. 1, and confirm¬ ed by charter by Henry 8. The Town- Hall, finished in 1797, is a handsome structure, pleasantly situated on the north¬ ern banks of the river. The popula¬ tion, in 1801, amounted to 1911 inhabit¬ ants, and 453 houses. The ruins of it’s Castle, appearing on a low cliff at the foot of the bridge, are very inconsiderable; little more than the fragments of 2 circu¬ lar bastions, overgrown with ivy; yet it was once a large and important fortress. It’s foundation is ascribed to Prince Rhys, about the year 1160, who also fortified the town. Powel says, p. 241, “This lord (Rhys) was a faire and comlie per¬ son, honest and just of conditions, belov¬ ed of his friends, and feared of his foes, against whom (especiallie the Flemings) he atchieved diverse victories.” He had 2 sons, Maelgwn and Gruffydd. “ Af¬ ter the death of Rhys, GrufFyth his sonne subdued all the countrie to himself, and enjoyed it in peace.” Retaken by his brother Maelgon united with Gvvenwyn- wyn, the son of Owen Cyvelioc, lord of Powis. In 1200, seeing he could not keep the castle, he sold it to the English. In 1215 the garrison delivered it to Llewel¬ yn ap Jorwerth, prince of N. Wales. In 1225, this castle was taken by Wm. Marsh¬ all earl of Pembroke, at his death in 1231 it reverted to the Welsh. Maelgon, son of Maelgon ap Rhys, destroyed the inhab¬ itants, the town, and castle. After lying in ruins for nine years, Gilbert Marsh¬ all possessed himself of this hold. The castle and ground within the walls now belong to John Bowen, esq , who has erected a house upon the site of the keep, the dungeons serving for cellars. A se¬ ries of wars and confusion ill accords with the solitariness of monastic institutions; this place therefore contained but one small Priory, which formerly stood near the river side, not far from the eastern end of the church. It was inhabited by black monks of the benedictine order, subordinate to the abbey of Chertsey in Surry. This seat of the monks is at pres¬ ent occupied by an elegant villa, which once belonged to James Phillips, esq., hus¬ band to Catherine Phillips, or “ Orinda,” of poetic memory, and author of “ Letters from Orinda to Poliarchus,” i. e. sir Charles Cottcrell, her early, constant, and estimable friend. In 1774, the priory es¬ tate was sold for the residue of 700 years to Thomas Johnes, esq. father to the pres¬ ent mr. Johnes. There are some good houses in Cardigan, among others those 329 CARDIGAN. 330 of Colonel Owen Lloyd, oi Abertrinant, entrenchment. Beside a cataract, near a and major James Bowen, are most conspic¬ uous. The Market here is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The Fairs are on Feb. 13, April 5, for horses and pedlary; Sep. 8, Dec. 19, for horses and black cattle. The Church is dedicat¬ ed to virgin Mary, and is a venerable, handsome building, consisting of a spa¬ cious nave, with a large tower at the w. end, and a large porch on it’s side. The most elegant and ancient part is it’s chan¬ cel, which is turrettedand strengthened by buttresses ornamented with light gothic pinnacles, and it’s windows are of the or¬ namented pointed arch. It was erected in 1639, and the body rebuilt in 1703. The tower fell in 1705. The present incum¬ bent is the rev. John Evans. Here is also a Free Grammar School ; it was cn. dowed between 1740 and 1770, by lady Lsetitia Cornwallis of Abermarles. Near Cardigan, in the year 1136, the en- glish army, commanded by Ranolph earl of Chester, was shamefully worsted, and the 2 barons Robert Fitz Roger, and Pain Fitz John, with 3000 others, slain on the spot, besides a great number drowned by the fall of a bridge. Mr. Lipscomb thinks the best view of Cardigan is from the southern bank of the Teivy. On the 1. appears a fine old bridge of 2 arches ; contiguous are the ruins of the castle, and the town of Cardigan, with it’s modern built and stately prison. On the e. is the church, elevated upon a rock, and sur¬ rounded by luxuriant elms, bounded by an eminence. The river displays an ex¬ tensive breadth, with small craft upon it. It is a confined landscape, possessed of most striking beauties. The only deduc¬ tion from the perfection of this scenery, is white-washed houses, which offend the eye by their glare, and destroy the har¬ mony of the picture. Cardigan gives the title of Earl to an cnglish nobleman. On the road to Newcastle Emlyn, near Llangoedmawr, is a large hill, called Coruc Mawr, of which Giraldus says, “ Upon this spot, Gruffyth, son of Rhys ap Theodor, soon after the death of Hen¬ ry 1, by a furious onset, gained a signal victory against the English army, which, by the murder of the illustrious Richard de Clare, near Abergavenny, had lost it’s leader and chief.” A tumulus is still up¬ on this hill, and some appearance of an farm called Trevorgan, is St. Cynllo’s Cave, where, tradition says, he prayed, &c. In this parish formerly stood, in a field cal- ed Cantllevas, a druidic monument, vul¬ garly called Llech yr Ast, or the bitch’s stone. It was about 9 yards in circumfer¬ ence, at least § a yard thick, and stood in a reclining position, one end being upon the ground, and the other supported by a stone about 3 feet high. Near this mon¬ ument was another, of smaller dimensions and five cistvaens uncovered, about two feet long, pitched in the ground. There is now a circular area of stones, about four yards diameter, but most of them are fallen. At about six yards from this, lies a stone, and another as far beyond, both of which probably once be¬ longed to this circle. In this parish were formerly some remains of a stone circle, called Meini cyvriol, or the numerary stones. Edward Lluyd describes them as being in his time 19 in number. He no¬ tices also another curiosity, called Llech y Gawres, a cromlech which stood upon a small eminence in an open field. The Church of Llangoedmawr is dedicated to St. Cynllo, the son of Mor ab Cenen ab Coel Godebog. It consists of a nave and chancel almost equal in length, between which a small steeple has been erected. It is a rectory in the gift of the lord chan¬ cellor. Llangoedmawr Place commands a most delightful view of the Tcify, the town of Cardigan, and village of St. Dog- maels. It was erected in 1760 by — Lloyd, esq., of Plymouth, now the prop¬ erty of the rev. B. Millinchamp. Coed - mawr lies upon the banks of the Teify, 2 miles from Cardigan. It takes it’s name from the handsome and extensive wood in which it stands ; it is situated lm. n. of Llangoed mawr. It formerly belong, ed the Clermont family. Sir Robert Lang¬ ley had it in gift from the Langleys under Edward 3 ; it then became the property of Llewelyn, son of Roger Mortimer in exchange for Genau’r glyn. This estate at length passed into the Lloyd family, from the great grandfather of the present possessor Thomas Lloyd, esq., marrying the daughter of colonel James Lewis, who had exchanged Coed mawr, with his brother-in-law, sir John Lewis, for Castell Llwyd near Llaugharn. The place contains nothing very remarkable- 331 CARDIGAN. 332 A mile and a half to the e., quitting the to rar. Steel, of D61, and the present own- river and meeting it again, is Lleclirhjd, cr is R. W. Leslie, esq., who has added to where an ancient bridge thrown over the the place considerable magnificence. Teivy, and covered with ivy has an agree- Near Cenarth bridge, is a remarkable sal¬ able appearance. The tide flows to this mon leap. Close to the Cataract is a pool, place, Upon the Carmarthenshire side 12 yards in circumference, formed by the of the river, and close to this bridge, are projection of the rock, where the salmon the mansion-house grounds, and tin-plate when toiled in mounting the cataract, manufactory of sir Benjamin Hamet. here reposes, but is generally taken by a The Church of Llechrhyd is a perpetual man with a spoon net, who pays the rev. curacy in the gift of the prebendary of D. Rogers about 501. a year for this privi- Llechrhyd. It consists simply of a nave, lege. chancel, and transept. The present in- On the road to Aberaeron, on the cumbentis the rev. Sampson Owen. In way to Aberystwith, at the 4th mile is this parish is an old dissenting meeting- Tremayn. The Church consists of a nave house, said to have been built by major and chancel, communicating by a pointed Wade, one of Oliver Cromwell’s troopers, arch. This is a perpetual curacy, in the On a wide and irregular route to New- gift of mr. Johnes of Hafod. There castle Emlyn, the foregoing places may is a ford in this parish, called Rhyd-won- be visited and continued with the follow- wn verch, which it is said, was once pois¬ ing. Llandygwydd takes it’s name from oned by a maiden, to destroy an enemy’s Tegwydd, the daughter of Tegid, and wife army, in the country which she intended of Cunedda Wledig, a saint. (In Gwent, a them to drink. At the 6th mile is Blaen- church is dedicated to her, where she was port/i, situated in a district formerly call- Silled by the pagan Saxons.) The edifice ed Cardigan Is coed. In the year 1114, is newly rebuilt, at the expense of 300 Gruffydd ab Cynan, prince of N. Wales, pounds. Lunyndyris belonged to the bish- came to this place and laid siege to a fort •ops of St. Davids, till the year 1800, when which earl Gilbert and the Flemings had St was sold, to redeem the land-tax, to built at a place called Blaen Porth Gwy- The before-mentioned rev. Thomas Grif- ddan. Near the load side, in this parish, dith. The mansion stands upon an elevat- is an old intrenchment, in complete pres- cd spot, overlooking the Teiyy. The site ervation, called by the country people of the original edifice appears in the “ Gaer.” The mound of the keep of the .grounds, which was moated. One mile Castle still remains, and other intrench- and a half northward is Blaen Pant, a ments. The Church is a perpetual cura- “handsome mansion surrounded by thriv- cy, in the gift of John Vaughan, esq., of ing plantations, formerly belonginga fam- Tyllwyd. The building contains a nave, ily named Jenkins, now the property of and a chancel, with a bell at the end of colonel Owen Brigstocke. There is here the roof. Pass Pennant y Dcrin, [soon af- -a valuable library, which the antiquary dr. tera road to the 1., to Aberporth, to the James Phillips, it is supposed, benefited right another road, two miles distant, is much from in his researches. He resided Betties Jfan, a chapel of ease in the par- hcre 10 or 12 years, during the minority ish of Pcnbryn, dedicated to St. John, of col. Brigstocke’s father, and correspond- “ Bettws” is supposed to be a corruption ed with Lewis Morris, dr. Pegga, &c. of tne latin “ Beatus” or blessed;] at the Penywenallt was formerly the residence 7th mile; Bwlch y groes; near which, of Evan Griffith Evans, nicknamed cap- close to the road, is an old british encamp- tain Tory, who for his king fought and ment, called Castell Nadolig, very large, bled. Two of his grandchildren were and double trenched. In 1788, a paved capt. John Evans, grandfather of the pres- road passed a mile north, from the old ent possessor, John Griffiths, esq.; and entrenchment. It was made of very the rev. Theophilus Evans, the antiquary, large stones ten feet wide. |m. fur- Stradmorc, upon the banks of the Teify, lher, is Temple-har; p-jcliglas, 1m.; |m.to was merely a farm house, till mr. Green, the n. is Vyfryn-fhanant, or the desira- brothcr-in-law to colonel Brigstocke, of ble valley, once the property of the Blaen-pant, bought it, and erected the Vaughans; afterwards, it belonged to present very elegant mansion. It passed Albany Wallis, esq., and now is the pos- 333 CARDIGAN; 334 session of colonel Bailey Wallis. [At the 10|m. is a road to the left to Llangranwg, which lies on the sea-side. On the top of a high hill near the harbour, is a part of a rock resembling a chair, called Eiste- thua, probably a meeting place of the old bards. On another hill, is a tumulus call¬ ed Moel Badell. The Church is a vicar¬ age, in the gift of the bishop of St. Davids. It is dedicated to Caranog, consisting of a nave and chancel. Over the w. door, are the remains of an ornamented gallery, and the steps of the rood loft, still appear. NearLlangranwy, is Pigeon’s ford, orRhyd Clynonog, the seat of George Price esq.] Half a mile further, is the New Inn. At the 12th mile W'ervilbrook appears on the left. Called in Welsh Fynnawn JVervel, or Fynnawn-gwyrvill, the brook of the 1000 men. The mansion was built by the late rev. David Turner, who bequeath¬ ed it with about 380 acres, to his widow, of whom it was purchased by his brother the rev. Lewis Turner, in 1802. The same year, the proprietor ordered a la¬ bourer to remove a heap of stones in a field on Tyll-coed (a farm belonging that estate) which covered an area of about 14 feet, and rose about a foot above the surface of the ground, when he discover¬ ed 11 urns of baked earth, containing ash¬ es, with a small pot, about the size of § a pint, having it’s bottom nearly globu¬ lar, and on one side 3 small holes. On¬ ly one of these were saved, the rest crum¬ bled to pieces. In 2 other fields, about a mile distant from this, are 3 other car- neddau of the same kind. The farm of Wervilbrook is said to be most judicious¬ ly planned. Passing Fynnawn Ddcwi, the head of a stream which falls into the sea, for the space of §m, to the 1. is the road to Uandysilio Gogo, or Gogovau, signify¬ ing Caves j yet none are discernable near the place. [See Newcastle in Emlyn.] To the r. is a road which leads to the vale of the Clettwr. Passing Ilhyd y bumper, reach Black Cock-pit-hill, at the 16th mile, where there is a road on the 1. to the Cross-Inn, and Llanwch hay am or Llany- chaiarn. [The parish of Llanychaiarn is situated on the sea-side, which bounds it on thew., the river Ystwith on the n. and e. The Church stands delightfully upon an eminence, above a beautiful cuive of the river, and flanked on each side by venerable oaks. It appears an¬ cient. It is a perpetual curacy in the gift of the Chicester family. It contains sev¬ eral monuments.] At the 17th mile is Larkhill; 1 Am. furtheris Llanarth, an ex¬ tensive parish, divided into 6 hamlets. The Church stands upon the summit of a high hill, on the w. side of a river, which falls into the sea at Llanina. It is a hand¬ some building, consisting of a nave, chan¬ cel, and massive high tower, dedicated to St. Vylltyg, with some good monuments. It is a vicarage, with the enjoyment of the whole of the tythes. It is in the gift St. Davids, and the living is estimated at 500 1. per annum. In the yard of the s. side of the church is an ancient stone, bearing the sign of the cross, on which was an inscription now nearly defaced. NRI—C only are distinct. It is 4f. Sin- above the ground, and 2f. lOin. broad. In this parish is a very large square en¬ trenchment, called Castcll Moeddyn ; on a farm called Pen voel, is another, called Pen y gaer. Upon a large heath is a tu¬ mulus of earth called Crug Coy. The village of New Quay, lies on the sea¬ shore in this parish, where there is a small pier almost in ruins, and a well sheltered road for shipping. It has a good outlet, but a perch is much wanted at the end of that foul ground called Carreg Ina. On the r. Noyadd, J.Brooks, esq. At Bargned, cross a brook, soon after a second, and at Ffos Ffin, (the boundary of the ditch,) an¬ other. On the 1. is Hen fynyw, that is “ old Mcnevia,” the place where St. Da¬ vid was brought up. The church con¬ sists simply of a nave and chancel. It is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of St. Da¬ vids. About ]m. further, on the road is a shorter track to Aberaeron, fit only for the pedestrian. Other travellers should take to the 1. at the next cross road. On the high-road to Newport, cross the Teifi, to St. Dogmael’s, (1 Am. from St. Dogmael’s, is Castle Malgwyn, John Ham- met, esq. 4i)m. from the same place is Pantydery, J. Bowen, esq.) Vclindrce 6£-m., near this place is Llwyngwair, G. Bowen, esq. Am Excursion to St. Dogmael’s Priory, at l£m. distance, may be made hence. This fragment of antiquity is very much dilapidated, and produces scarcely any picturesque appearance; the parts which remain entire, are converted into barns, sheds, and habitations; the original ex- 335 CARDIGAN. 336 tent of the church is discernible, which was of no inconsiderable dimensions, and of the early gothic style. In the cemetery adjoining the ruin and the village church, an aged yew produces a characteristic ef¬ fect : and here the scene, finely inter¬ spersed with wood and situated above the Teivi is undoubtedly beautiful. The priory was founded for Benedictine monks by Martin de Turribus, a norman chief¬ tain, who first conquered the surrounding territory called Kameys or Kemish, and then deluged it with the blood of it’s na¬ tives. A part of the northern transept remains, in which are 2 recesses, and some rich key stones, ornamented with a winged lion, an angel holding an escut¬ cheon of arms, &c. In the adjoining church, on a stone tablet, is the following inscription : “ Hie Jacet Johannes Bradshaw armicer, q.ui obiit ultimo dieMaii anno domino 1588.” Anoth¬ er stone, mentioned by Camden, still ex¬ ists, and serves as a passage over a gutter leading to the clergyman's house ! Mr. Warner mentions a walk on the banks of the river Teivi, from Caerdigan to Castle Malkwn, as containing unrival¬ led beauty and variety. From the works of sir Benjamin Hammet, he proceeded, by the assistance of a guide, through de- lighiful scenery, to Kilgarran Castle. The road to Kilgarran, by land, is circuitous, and, if the tide permit, an a- quatic excursion may be easily projected, which would amply compensate the ex¬ tra trouble and expense. The Teivi, a- bove Cardigan becomes environed by high hills, the approaching bases of which contract the bed of the river, changing it’s character from a broad and majestic, to an impetuous eddying stream. The sides of these hills rise from the water in almost perpendicular steepness, yet clothed with trees from the river’s brink to their ridgy summits. In the midst of this embower¬ ed glen, a tremendous naked rock, crown¬ ed with the truly picturesque remains of Kilgarran castle, stands pre-eminent, forming a striking contrast to the dark rich verdure which prevails in the other accompaniments of the river. The beau¬ ties of this spot drew the attention of our great english landscape painter, Wilson, and have been transferred into more than one of his compositions. The ruin con¬ sists principally of 2 circular towers, with part of a gateway, finely mantled with ivy. When at Cardigan, mr. Wyndham em¬ ployed the custom-house boat, as a con¬ veyance to the tin-works above Kilgarran. In his passage, the charming Teivi pre¬ sented, at every turn, new beauties. To Llanpeter a great sameness of ascent and descent prevails. To Haverford-west, nearly in a di¬ rect line, and not through Kilgarran and St. Davids, occurs the village of Pant- grwndy, lm. 5f., Caiosellantwd , lm. If., Flintwood, 5f., Penclwdd, lm. 5f., and Bn- dell, where the cultivated enclosures con¬ trast agreeably with the ragged prospect of 3 mountains in front. That on the r. near the sea, is the mountain above New¬ port; the middle is Percely, and that at the eastern extremity is Wrenyvaur. A little beyond, 4 roads meet this to¬ wards Cardigan, the road on the right to Newport, that on the left to Newcastle in ;Emlyn, and the road over Percely mountain to Haverfordwest. Just here is the neat and pleasing village of Eglwy- swrw, lm., where is a banker and book¬ seller. Pont y grn, £m. At Pont Cunno, the river Nevern relieves, for a moment, the dreariness of the scene. The last plot of cultivation extends to Hendre Gate, Jm, which is the entrance of the Per¬ cely mountain. Immediately beyond Pont Llanbiran, lm. 3f., crosses the river Biron, but the ascent does not become laborious till you arrive at Tavern y Vach at some distance. It is not difficultly steep in any part, but tedious from it’s length. This mountain is the centre of a long ridge, running e. and w. The prospect from the top is very extensive. At the beginning of the descent on the other side, is the New-Inn, 45 m.; about half way between Cardigan and Haverfordwest. The high¬ est peak of the mountain is Cwm Cerwyn Hill or Presceiy mountain, to the e. of the New-Inn. Continuing the descent, we come in sight of Llanvernach mountain. These high grounds to the 1. intercept en¬ tirely the view of Caermarthen, tho’ situ¬ ated very near; but Caermarthen bay is distinctly discerned ; and Gower beyond. After reaching the bottom of the moun¬ tain, the road continues over a flat coun¬ try, as far as Scole’s Cross, where it be¬ gins to be well cultivated. At Kroghu.il, just beyond, there is an appearance of an extensive population. Cornelach, 3 m.; Beggar's bush, 6 m.; Crondell, lm. if.; Ste- vensford, ^m. Pendegast, lm., was the 338 337 CARDIGAN. CARDIGANSHIRE. ancient seat of the Stepneys. Doctor Johnson says that the poet George Step¬ ney was descended from this stock. One of these Stepneys married Vandyck’s daughter. Haverfordwest, 2Jm.—B. H. Malkin. To Kilgarran, 3 miles, Barber; Malkin; Evans; Skrine; Warner. — Aberaeron, 22 miles, Wyndham’s 1st tour. Up the Teivi to Kilgarran iron-wroks, 5 miles, thence to Lampeder, 24 miles, Wyndham’s 2d. tour. — Newcastle, 10 miles, Lipscomb. — Aberystwith, 38-J miles. — Haverfordwest, 28i miles. — Newport, Pern. 10^ miles. — Lampeter, 29 miles. Cardiganshire is a maritime county of S. Wales, bounded on the n. by Merionethshire and Montgomery, on the e. by the counties of Radnor and Breck¬ nock, on the w. by the Irish sea, and on the s. by Caermarthenshirc. It is about 100m. in circumference. This countyre- turns 2 members to parliament, one a knight of the shire, to represent the coun¬ ty, and the other a burgess for the borough of Cardigan. It is divided into 5 hun¬ dreds, which contain five market towns, i. e. Cardigan, Newcastle Emlyn, Lam¬ peter,Tregaron and Aberystwith. There was formerly another hundred called Can- trev Gwaelod, now covered with water, and bounded by Sam Badrig, or St. Pat¬ rick’s Causeway, which runs out to sea in a serpentine manner. In this cantrev are also to be seen roots of trees in their natural situations, and as the ocean con¬ tinues to gain upon the coast, it is proba¬ ble that the beautiful valley called Dyf- ryn Ardudwy, will sometime undergo the same fate. [See Harlech.] Besides this, there are still to be seen at low wa¬ ter 4 other causeways or roads in this can¬ trev. They are Sam y gafr, or the Goat’s Causeway, which extends about l|m. in¬ to the sea, just by Aberdysyni, in Merion¬ ethshire. Sam Cynfelyn, or St. Cynfelyn’s causeway, which extends 7m. into the sea, from a place called Gwallawg, or Gwallog. At the end of this causeway is C'aer YVyddno, very rocky ground, and sup¬ posed to have been the royal residence. The next is Sam Ddeuii, or St. David’s causeway, extending about Jm. into the ;ea, being exactly in the same line with ■ he church of Llan~Ddewi A berurih , or St. David’s, at the mouth of the river Arth. The last is Sam Cadwgan, or Cadogan’s road, about gm. or more from Sam Ddewi, and reaching more than I^m. into the sea. Where this juts out from the shore is an old fort called Castell Cadwgan. The river Dovey divides the ground of N. Wales from Cardigan. The neighbour¬ hood of this river is chiefly interesting as connected with the history of mines, the whole of this rugged region being one im¬ mense reservoir of metallic treasure. The mines at present carried on are at Cwmsym - log, of silver ore, lead ore, and quartz. A ton of lead generally produces 40 ounces of silver. This was the work which en¬ abled mr. Hugh Middleton to form the New River from Ware to London. After 1770 it was discontinued. In 1805, mr.- Pryse of Gogerthan, and 3 others success¬ fully engaged in the work : Daren Vawr, silver, bought by mr. Pryse, from mr. Griffiths of Pen-y-bontpren, Cardigan¬ shire. Goginan, not worked. Daren Vach, is a part of the same vein, as Daren vawr, the property of the Gogerthan es¬ tate. Cwm Ervyn, silver, belonging to Lewis Jones of Cwmrheiddol: Llanvair, silver, lead, &c., purchased by John Beadnell, esq., of London, from Thomas Johnes, esq, of Havod, and is worked by J. Williams, of Llwyn y Berthlan, in Caermarthenshire. The Copper Mines are Escair vraith, not worked, and Ynys Cynvelin, belongs to Pryse Pryse, esq., of Gogerthan ; worked by a Flintshire min¬ er. The Leadmincs are at Escair hir, not worked ; A!It \j crub ; at Llewerneg, one worked by sir Tho. Bonsai, the other by Wm. Pole, tenant, of Gogerthan ; Ystym tuen, belonging the Powels, at Nanteos, little worked; Hen vwlch, the property of P. Pryse, esq., wrought by J. Sheldon & Co.; Awr glawdd, near Allt y crub, the property of mr. Lloyd of Abertrinant, not worked ; Moel goch, purchased by Herbert Lloyd, esq., of Caermarthen, from-Griffiths, esq., of Penbontpren, worked by J. Willi¬ ams of Llwyn y Berllan ; Pen y lanch, be¬ longing to P. Pryse, esq., worked by J. Sheldon ; Nant y Crier, granted to earL Powis, by the crown, held by J. Sheldon 5 Gellau Erin, purchased by sir Tho. Bon- sall,by whom it is worked; .R/iuuyragtu, be¬ longing mr. Lloyd of Abertrynnant; Bron y goch, discovered by J. Probert, esq., of Shrewsbury, who holds it under a lease, from the earl of Lisburne; Llwyn wnwch, 339 CARDIGANSHIRE. 340 ■vvas discovered by the same person, leased also from the earl of Lisburne; Logy las, belongs to the earl of Lisburne, let to J. Probart, esq.; Escair y Mien, was granted to earl Powis by the crown, is worked, but yields little; Cwmystwith, from 1770 to 1790 produced a clear profit of about 1000/. a year, to sir Thomas Bonsai; Kant y meirch, discovered in 1700 by James Low, of Dol gors, granted by the crown to earl Powis, leased by J. Shel¬ don ; Cwm yr anner dilu, Nant y cagl, Pen y forddgoch, and Pen y sarn, not worked; Jlhysgog, Escair gad vach, and Cwm trin- ant, in the parish of Llanddawi Brevi, not worked; Tan y gacr, and Vach ddit, both in the parish of Cellan, not much work¬ ed. Such are the mines of Cardigan¬ shire. The ore is chiefly bought by the Bristol smelters. Not the small¬ est particle of coal, however, has been discovered in this county, hence what¬ ever metals may be found in it, they must be taken out to be smelted, into such counties as Pembroke, Caermarthen, and Glamorgan. Cardiganshire, in what re¬ gards picturesque and romantic scenery is the most striking county in S. Wales, yet it does not possess the unintermitted in¬ terest and endless variety of Glamorgan¬ shire. There is nothing in S. Wales worse than the worst part of this county; but Havod and Pont y Monach may be in¬ stanced as equal to the finest which can be adduced. Cardiganshire abounds rather with gulphs than mountains. The banks of the rivers, the dingles, the rocks, are grand or beautiful, but the flat parts are mostly dreary and uninteresting. The luxuriant Havod is a paradise formed by industry in the midst of a desert. It is a great misfortune to the northern part of the county, that there arc many untenant¬ ed mansions. A gentleman enumerat¬ ed to mr. Malkin a list of proprietors who draw out of the country 25,000/. annually without ever visiting the places whence this wealth is derived, and consequently without circulating any part of it at home. When this wealth is taken out of a poor country, the injury mustbeapparent. Car¬ diganshire is yet greatly unimproved, it is but emerging from it’s chaotic state. Cardiganshire is less visited than the northern counties, it’s beauties are only beginning to be a subject of panegyric, consequently the appearance of stran¬ gers, excepting at Aberystwith and it’s neighbourhood, seldom occur. The on¬ ly post-chaises in the county are at Ab- berystwith, Havod-arms, and Llanpeter. The nearest point at which a mail-coach touches is Llandovery, in Caermarthen- shire. A letter is 2 days in passing from Havod to Cardigan, tho’ the distance be only 40m. Hospitality is more practised and the distinction of rank less regarded in this than in most counties. “ In these remote districts,” saystheintelligent Mal¬ kin, “ where a stranger is a novelty, a stranger is an acquisition; and the very circumstance of his appearance, in some measure indicates, that he comes with a view of gratifying a tasteful and liberal curiosity. There is nothing to attract the adventurer, nothing to entertain the vota¬ ry of dissipation. The reserches of the antiquary are therefore forwarded with the best knowledge of the inhabitants, the ar¬ dour of the picturesque explorer is direct¬ ed to the more remote and eccentric ob¬ jects.” The language of the inhabitants is almost, without exception, Welsh. These mountaineers, thus detached from the English are yet contented with their dreary quarters and hard fare. Their gains are indeed small, their mode of liv¬ ing extremely coarse, their appearance squallid, and even their existence is de¬ pendant on the good pleasure of their thin¬ ly scattered employers, yet they snatch much of simple happiness. The church¬ es in this county are almost universally served in the Welsh language. The dia¬ lect of Cardiganshire comes the nearest to the modern literary or written dialect. The dialect of the Bible is formed on the Dimetian, which is the modern standard. Most of the labouring class are regardless of their own welfare, spending all they obtain, living in wretched mud cottages un¬ separated from their domesticated pigs or cows. Such has been the proverbial bar¬ renness of Cardiganshire, that the people of the neighbouring counties, say it was anciently branded with the title of the Devil’s grandmother’s jointure, yet as in the instance of Havod, it is evident that the old lady’s property is not worthless. The mountains are almost universally composed of schistus or slate rock. The soil in the vales is chiefly peat, which is capable of being made productive eith¬ er in grain or grass, by the application of CARDIGANSHIRE. 342 lime, or means of draining. The higher grounds are chiefly a light sandy loam. The enclosures are made with naked high mounds of earth and stone. Quicksets languish, furze seems to thrive better. There are several proprietors who have very extensive estates in this county, yet the yeomanry, possessing from 20 to 300 or 400 acres are numerous, and many of them are occupiers. It might be expect¬ ed, therefore, that this district should ex¬ hibit better husbandry, but many of these proprietors are as backward in their im¬ provement as any of their tenantry. The good effects of the Agricultural Society, Established in this county in the year 1784, are conspicuous. It was formed upon an excellent plan, is supported by gentlemen of research and large property, and conducted by a theoretic and practi¬ cal agriculturist, in the person of the rev. -Griffiths, secretary. The climate is much milder than the midland coun¬ ties in England, but more humid; yet less so than the w. of England, or the sea. eoasts of Caermarthenshire and Pem¬ brokeshire. Seethe “ General View of Agriculture in the county of Cardigan,” published by the Board of Agriculture i London, and a “ Cardiganshire Land¬ lord’s Advice to his Tenants,” compiled by Thomas Johnes esq., of Havod. The roads in this county are as good as any in England, and it’s parochial ones are not bad, good materials for repairing them be¬ ing every where to be found. This coun¬ ty has plenty of tame and wild fowl, par¬ ticularly partridges, woodcocks, snipes, &c., and, in some parts, foxes. Hares and rabbits are also very numerous, and it’s lakes abound in trout. It is well sup. plied with sea-fish, as cod, herrings, &c., and it’s rivers afford the finest salmon, and salmon trout. The principal river is the Teivi, which rises in Llyn Teivi, about two miles north-east of Strata florida. This county has hitherto made little pro¬ gress in commerce. It possesses scarcely any manufactures. The present popula¬ tion, according to the latest accounts, ex¬ ceeds 40,000. In the w. part of Cardiganshire, there exists a curious custom relating to marri¬ age, called a bidding, which takes place about a week previous to the day of cere¬ mony. The banns are published as in England. A bidder (gwahodder) goes from house to house, with a long pole and ribbons flying at the end of it, and stand¬ ing in the middle floor in each house, he repeats a long lesson, with great formal¬ ity. He mentions the day of the wedding theplace,thepreparationsmade, &c. The following is a specimen. Araith y Gwahoddwr yn Llanbadern voter, 1762. “ Arwydd y Gwahoddwr yw hyn ; yn vwyn ac yn hawddgar, yn lan ac yn deu- luaidd, dros Einion Owain, a Llio Ellis, a’ch ewyllys da ar ddesgl; dowchagarian disai: svvllt neu ddau, neu dri, neu bed- war, ncu bump; ’r ymni’n gwahodd caws ac y menyn, a’r gwr a’r wraig a’r plant, a’r gweison a’r morwynion, a’r mwyav hyd y lleiav; dowch yno’n voreu, cewch vwyd yn rhodd, a diodd yn rhad, ystolion i ciste a physgod, os gallwn eu dal, ac onide cymmerwch ni yn esgusol; ac nhwyddon ’hwyntan gyda chwithau pan alwoch am danynt. Yn codi allan o’r van a’r van.”. Speech of the Bidder in Llanbadern vawr, 1762. “ The intention of the bidder is this; with kindness and amity, with decency and liberality for Einion Owain and Llio Elys, he invites you to come with your good will on the plate; bring current money ; a shilling, or 2, or 3, or 4, or 5 ; with cheese and butter we invite the hus¬ band and wife, and children, and men-ser¬ vants, from the greatest to the least. Come there early, you shall have victuals freely, and drink cheap, stools to sit on, and fish if we can catch them ; but if not, hold us excusable; and they will attend on you when you call upon them in re¬ turn. They set out from such a place to such a place.” The gwahodder, or bidder, has eight or ten shillings for his trouble. Saturday is always fixed on as the day of marriage, and Friday is allotted to bring home the ystavell, or furniture of the woman, con¬ sisting generally of an oak chest, a feath¬ er bed, clothes, &c. The man provides a bedstead, a table, a dresser and chairs. The evening is moreover employed in re¬ ceiving presents of money, cheese, and butter, at the man’s house from his friends, and at the woman’s house from her friends. This is called pwrs a gwregys, or purse and girdle, an ancient british cus¬ tom. All these presents are set down mi- 343 CARDIGANSHIRE, nutely on paper. If demanded, they are to be repaid. On Saturday, the friends of the man come all on horseback, to the number of 80 or 100, and have bread and cheese and ale at his cost, making at the same time their presents, or pay pwython, i. e. the presents that have been made at their weddings. From 10 to 20 of the best mounted go to the intended bride’s house, to demand her. The woman with her friends are expecting the summons,but she appears very uncomplying and much Welsh poetry is employed by way of argu¬ ment, one party being within the house the other without, abusing each other much. Several persons then deliver ora¬ tions on horseback, with their hats off de¬ manding the daughter from the father, who are answered by persons appointed for the business. At length the father ap¬ pears, admitting and welcoming his guests. They alight, walk in, take some refresh¬ ments, and proceed to church. The girl mounts behind her father, mother, or friend, upon the swiftest horse that can be procured. Her friends then pretend to run away with her, riding like mad folks, in any direction. During this time the girl has no pillion, sitting upon the crupper, and holding by the man’s coat. At last the horse is tired, or the bride growing impatient, consents to go, using only some feints to get out of the road, till they arrive at the church. The ceremony being over, they return to the married couple’s house, eating at free cost, but finding their own liquor. Sunday being come, the married pair stay at home re¬ ceiving good will and pwython. This day is called neithior. On Monday the drink is exhausted, and the cheese, &c., is sold, frequently making, with the mon¬ ey presented, a sum of 50 to 60/. On the following Snnday, most of the company attend the young pair to church, and the ceremony closes. Among the eminept natives of Cardi¬ ganshire, was Dav'ul ap Gwylim, of Bro Ginin, whose works appeared in a large volume, in the year 1789, edited by Ow¬ en Jones, and Wm. Owen. He flourish- ished from about the year 1330 to 1370. In early life he enjoyed the munificent patronage of Ivor the generous, an ances¬ tor of the Tredegar family. Under the influence of a passion for the fair Morvutld he composed 147 poems. Their loves CAREW CASTLE. 344 were mutual, but her friends induced her to accept a wealthy connection, named Rhys Gwrgan, an officer in the English army, who served at the battle of Cressy. 1346 ; Dab Gwilym persuaded Morvudd to escape with him, during the absence of her husband in France; in consequence of which he was imprisoned, but liberated through the influence of friends. It is from the poems of this author, that the modern literary dialect has chiefly been formed. From Monorbeer Castle, 2 miles, Barber. -Narberth, 8 miles, Donovan. - Llaugharne, by way of St. Clare, 19 miles, Wyndham. - Haverford west, down the river, Fenton. CAREW CASTLE, in Pembrokeshire, is one of the most conspicuous features in the county, exhibiting the ruins of a magnificent pile, once the residence o( great characters. The name may have been corrupted from Caerau. It was one of the royal demesnes belonging to the princes of S. Wales, and with 7 others was given as a dowry to Nesta, daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr, to Gerald de Wind¬ sor, who was appointedlieutenantofthose parts by Henry 1. His son William took the name of Carew, and this Castle passed into the possession of various branches of this family. In 1644, it was garris¬ oned for the King and held out a long seige. The noble edifice is situated upon a neck of land washed by the tide of two estuaries with a gentle fall tow- ards the water, and consists of a superb range of apartments, round a quadrangle, with an immense bastion at each corner, containing handsome chambers. Almost every room once had elegant chimney- pieces of wrought freestone. Some of these have been carr ied off and others de¬ stroyed by the neighbouring inhabitants, for the purpose of scouring their wooden ware. The barbican may be traced, and through the portcullised gateway pass a grand entry into the great court or inner ballium. The ground rooms of the n. front contain nobly magnificent windows, lighting the great state room 102 feet long by 20. On the e. side over the chimney-piece there is an escutcheon bearing the royal arms, perhaps in com¬ pliment to Henry 7. who is said to have 345 CAREW CASTLE. 346 been entertained and lodged here by sir Mr. Fenton here changed his course, in Rhys ap Thomas, on his way to Bosworth- favour of a return to Haverfordwest. He field. A handsome suite of rooms are repassed the castle by a narrow bridge, included in an octagon tower to the right over the upper part of the n. estuary 3 f the grand entrance. All the s-w. side which bounds it’s walls, and after cross- jf the castle shews old towers of various ing a common upon which is the appear- leight, diameter and form. The whole n. ance of several cams, arrived at Cresselly, ide is very majestic, ending in the return the elegant seat of John Allen, esq. who >f a bastion to the e. The building is of retired from the forum with a fine fortune, various eras. According to Leland sir enjoying with his sisters the “ Otium IhysapThomasnew-modelledthewhole, cum dignitate. (Leisure and respect.) md enlarged it. This castle had to the s. The house stands upon an elevation sur- i very extensive deer park. In part rounded by a plantation and coalmines. if this ground, at a short distance from the :astle, sir Rhys ap Thomas held a tilt and ournament, with other warlike pastimes o the honour of St. George, chief patron if Men of War. See an account of this irincely fete in the Cambrian Register, or 1797, p. 125. Opposite to the ntrance into the lawn before the castle, ust without the wall, and on the road- ide leading to Carew church and village tands one of the early Crosses, richly irnamented with knots, dfc. Near the entre is an inscription which has not ieen deciphered. The Church lies a- lout^m.to thes-E of the castle, in the niddle of a spacious ccmetry, and is a arge building, having a nave, chancel, 2 -lisles, and a north transept, with a well- The front looks down Cresswell (or Christ’s-well) river, to Lawrenny, and it’s woods. Hot-houses and all the appen¬ dages ofmodern luxury are not here want¬ ing. Take a boat at Cresswell, descend with the tide, and Lawrenny to the r. pro¬ ceed down the haven, as far as the un¬ finished Fort. The spot upon which it stands is called Patrick Church, and was purchased by the crown for the said pur¬ pose. Above the flat upon which it stands under a gentle rising, there are the re¬ mains of an ancient mansion, once the residence of David de Patrick-church. The Carrs are a ridge of rocky ground, stretching almost across Milford-haven, from Patrick Church towards Llanstadwell, which do not appear at low water nep , , - , tides. Lewis Morris, in his survey, re¬ built lofty tower. The nave is separated , . , , . , , , , comends a pier of stones to be made up- rom the aisles by pointed arches, resting ipon plain columns. The chancel is arge and paved with bricks, ornamented vith pious mottoes and coats of arms. In on tiiat ridge, which would form to the e. of it a harbour not to be equalled in Great- Britain. Almost opposite is Nayland, where formerly sugars from Ireland were re¬ finery, and about the year 1776 a dock¬ yard, where a 74 and a frigate were built. he s. aisle, to the right of the door, enter- , , , , ° _ . ’ discharged. At this place was a salt ng the church, are two effigies resting c , , „ .. , , . . b . b finery, and about the year 1776 a do rpon the projecting bench running the d> where a 74 and a frigate werebu.... ITll 1; . :?!f. Cr °, SS : J e „ SS ! . ' Lewis Morris has asserted, that here might be made a wet dock 1 Jm. in length. ind a priest; probably plundered from 2 ecesscs stopped up in the chancel. The v. transept seems to have been appropriat¬ ed as a mausoleum to the castle. There is in ancient escutcheon, and the only mon- iuent in this family chapel is one bearing he recumbent figures of sir John Carew md his wife, dated 1637. At the w. end it the church yard is a neat old detatched where vessels might lie at the dock head in 4, 6, or 8 fathoms of water. A little lower upon the same tide, is a roadsted, called Hazcl-bitch, where, as George Owen, expresses it, “ there is good ryd- inge for shippes and good ankre howlde.' J This road extends from Llanstadwell to .... Newton Weave. Newton was once the Holding used for a School, supported by a residence of the princely family of Crad- o untaiy parochial contribution. Exact- do c, lineally descended from HowelDda. y opposite the church,’separated only by xhe place( enlivened by delightful ic roa , a landsome arched gateway views on the harbour, is the residence of .eads to the Rectory. It was a large irregu- Lewis Child esq. Thesoilhereisexcel- ar bmlding, now unroofed, and in ruins. lent. Mr. Fenton having to wait the re- ■ n ' s ivms 15 valuable, and an episcopal turn of the tide, visited the churches of Llunstadwellxad Burton, but found nothing 347 CAREW respecting them worthy of remark. Re¬ suming his floating conveyance, he re¬ passed Lawrenny, where large vessels take in coal and culm, brought in barges from Christ-well quay. Here again Benton Castle appears a pleasing object. Gliding with the tide, enter the e. Cledd- au, and land opposite to Landshipping quay, at the place where passengers take the ferry-boat, walk through beautiful woods to Picton Castle, which, on this ap¬ proach, appears to much advantage ; but as a castellated building an approach from the e. is far superior. Mr. Fenton’s style glows with animation when describing this spot. “ It would be an insult,” he exclaims, “ to Picton Castle, to estimate it’s consequence and it’s beauties by a scale employed to measure modern villas, the works of a Brown or a Nash, by a few formal clumps disposed so as to admit a glimpse of a distant horse-pond, the ruins of a windmill, a kennel in the mask of a church, and bits of gothic injudiciously stuck here and there like patches on the face, producing deformity. If such things constitute a fine place, every mushroom citizen of yesterday may command them. But Picton Castte owes it’s beauties to circumstances that wealth cannot supply, or titles confer ; circumstances that age, and an unbroken line of ancestry in it’s possessors have given value to, and have made venerable; an ancient structure that nothing can so much disfigure as an attempt to modernize and make less so ; a castle (and I believe a solitary instance) never forfeited, never deserted, never va¬ cant ; that never knew a melancholy blank in it’s want of a master, from whose walls hospitality was never exiled, and whose governors might be said to have been hereditary; a castle in the midst o possessions and forests coeval with itself, and proudly looking down over a spa¬ cious domain, on woods of every after growth, to an inland sea, bounding it’s property and it’s prospects beyond them ; for such is Picton Castle.” A beautiful print of this structure, appears in Fenton’s Tour, page 278, drawn by Carter, engrav¬ ed by Greig, and contributed to the work by the proprietor of the castle. This building appears to have been oblong, flanked with six large bastions, three on each side, with a narrow projection terminating in two bastions of small- CASTLE. 548 er dimensions at the e. end, between which was the grand portcullised en¬ trance, now contracted into a door-way. It was evidently moated round, and ap¬ proached by a draw-bridge, now suppli¬ ed by a raised flagged terrace, between low parapets. About the year 1800, lord Milford made an addition to the w. end of 2 magnificent rooms, but the externals of his improvements assimilate ill with the ancient partof the structure. The gar¬ dens, hot-houses, and hot walls are very extensive. The park, now destitute of deer, is large and richly wooded. Some charming walks have been made to wind above the river, seats frequently occur, and a hermitage forms a pleasing feature. A little above this walk, upon a project¬ ing point of land, there is an old encamp¬ ment, called Castle Lake, having a high agger to the w. a deep ravine on the n-e. and s-w. sides, and a precipitous rock fac¬ ing the river. Upon the most elevated spot in the park stands a handsome belvi- dere. A little to the s-w. of the gardens, formerly stood the town where the lord's vassals, in the feudal age were distribut¬ ed so near him as to be within sound of his war-horn. The present lord Milford is 8th in descent from sir Thomas Phil¬ lips, of Cilsant, the first of his name who resided at Picton Castle, which he had in right of his wife Jane daughter and heir of sir Henry Donn, son of Owen Donn, by Catherine, daughter and heir of sir John VVogan, great grandson of sir John Wogan, who married Joan, daughter and heir of sir William de Picton, whose ances¬ tor, anorman, came to Dyvedor Pembroke- shre, with Arnulph de Montgomery, and had this district as his share of the new conquest, giving it his own name. Lord Milford is said to possess a fine cab¬ inet of drawings by some of the first mas¬ ters, chiefly collected by his uncle sir Erasmus Philipps, when in Italy. Proceed along the walk before-mentioned to Slebecli, a spot remarkable as having once been a commandery of the knights hospitallers, or of st. John of Jerusalem, afterwards called knights of Rhodes, and now knights of Malta, originally a gang of beggars supported by charity, but after¬ wards they became respectable. To be qualified for this order, the person was to be 18 years of age at least, of able body, not descended from a jew or turk, no bas- 349 CAREW tard except by a prince, there being hon¬ our in that dishonour. [See a history of these knights in Fenton’s Tour, p. 255— 291. Not a trace is left of any building coeval with this ancient commandery ex¬ cept the Church, which is a very respect¬ able but not large building. It has a tower, and consists of a nave, chancel, and transepts. Upon the s. wall near the communion table a black marble tab¬ let bears a punning epitaph in latin, in¬ scribed with the name of G. Barlow, June 19,1591. Near this on the same side, un¬ der a rich canopy inlaid with white mar¬ ble, are 2 recumbent figures in alabaster, probably of the Barlow family. On the n. side of the chancel is an elegant mural monument of marble, to Anne, wife of John Barlowe, esq., 1731. The church s entered by a porch, over which is an 'escutcheon of arms in freestone. The Mansion of Slebech makes a handsome ap¬ pearance without, and the interior is ele¬ gant and roomy. The pleasure-grounds are neatly laid out, the gardens are exten¬ sive, abounding with tropical fruits and dowers. The Church of Slebech is a ricarage. Upon an eminence to the n. )f the house stands a square building, o. /ex the entrance is inscribed “ Envies lespite.” Opposite the house are con¬ siderable ruins of a respectable mansion, jy a brother of the Barlow who resided it Slebech. A little beyond, upon the ;ummit of the ridge, is the church and tillage of Mynwear, much depopulated. 5 ass over a nevv road through beautiful voods to the ruins of the New House, a arge pile of excellent masonry. Mr. Fenton says it was one of the earliest of he uncastellated habitations, and called Red Castle. There is a little Church near. By another shady avenue through the voods, descend to Blackpool, for many 'ears noted as a great iron forge and fish- ry, rented of the proprietor of Slebech. This spot is delightfully situated upon the nargin of the river Cleddau, here taking . sudden bend to the n-e, deeply embos- imed in oak and beech of the most luxu- iant growth. At Canniston-bridge, on he great turnpike road from Haverford¬ west to Cacrmarthen mr. Fenton quit- sd his acquatic conveyance. Canniston |/as once the possession of a powerful ,ian of that name, whose daughter, and CASTLE. 350 sole heiress married Peter Perrott. Return to the r. taking a road through the woody tract which was appropriated for many years to the use of the iron forge at Blackpool. Upon the verge of the e. boundary of the wood, occurs a very ex¬ tensive and strong earth-work encamp¬ ment, including within it’s area 2 acres, 2 roods, and 10 perches. Quitting the wood, pass the respectable old house of Grove, embosomed in trees on the r., the seat of the ancient family of Poyer, now extinct. Of this family was colonel Poy¬ er, who defended Pembroke Castle a- gainst Cromwell, and was shot at Covent- garden. Proceed to Templeton, so call¬ ed from having been much resorted to by the knights of st. John of Jerusalem, during those times when they engaged in the re¬ creation of hunting (if cruelty and the commission of death may be called recre¬ ation). “ Remorseless Christians, who make death a sport!” It is a skeleton of a large village. It’s architecture is chief¬ ly flemish, such as are seen in ancient vil¬ lages upon the coasts of Somersetshire and Devon. The chimney, which is round, rises out of the front wall of the house, near the door. Mr. Fenton find¬ ing no inducement to lead him further in this direction, returned, and fell in with the great road upon Narberth mountain, in my memory,” says he, “ an open dre¬ ary common, here and there shewing patches of stunted oaks, the grim remains of a very flourishing forest. Even as late as the time of James 1, as appears from a survey taken, it contained 873 acres of wood-land, upon which were growing of timber-trees for the navy 3071, valued at 20 s. each, 1120 fire-wood trees at 10s. each, and 21,000 saplings of oaks. This immense tract of land, reduced by subse¬ quent delapidations to a cheerless waste, is most pleasingly metamorphosed, being at present in a high state of cultivation underthe management of William Knox, esq., the present proprietor, who in 1786 procured an act for enclosing and divid¬ ing the waste grounds of Narberth, Tem¬ pleton, Molleston, and Robeston Wathen, in which he had considerable manorial right, in consequence of purchasing the estate of Slebech. In the approach to Narberth, as seen from the mountain, the castle, church, and town, group into a pleasing picture. 351 CAREW CASTLE. CEMMAES. CERIG Y DRU1DIAN. 35; On the road to Pembroke, is a gothic cross on the way side, about 12 or 14 feet high, and apparently formed of one single stone ; it is carved all over with knots, and scrolls. Pursuing this road, from the summit of a hill, there is a grand view of Carew castle; indeed it is from the s. and s-w. alone that it’s important di¬ mensions fully appear : hence may also be seen the elevated mansion of Laurenny, seated on a lofty bank of an arm of Mil- ford-haven, beautifully accompanied with wood and lawn. This place is consider¬ ed one of the first seats in Pembrokeshire; and it is said to have received much im¬ provement from the taste and liberality of mr. Barlow, the present proprietor. An elevated ridge, which commauds exten¬ sive views, conducts the traveller to Pem¬ broke ; but the best prospects of the town are from the higher lands, Over which the road descends, after passing from the ferry across the haven of Mil¬ ford, whence Wilson’s charming pic¬ ture is taken. To Pembroke, 5 miles, Barber; Donovan; Wyndham. Back to Haverfordwest, Fenton. From Amlwch, 4 miles, Aikin. CEMMAES, is a small village, which stands on a little creek, opening into a most beautiful bay, about a mile across, on the northern side ot the isle of Angle- sea ; it’s entrance into the main sea is guarded on each side by a craggy promon¬ tory, the one of gray, the other of snow- white marble, smooth as the surface of a mirror ; and, when illuminated by the sun, it’s sparkling transparency baffles de¬ scription. In the interior recesses of the bay, a bank of black shale finely contrasts with a lofty irregular projecting arch of white marble, pierced by the constant dashing of the waves. Back to Amlwch, Aikin. FromCorwen, 10 miles, Hutton. - Cernioge, 3 miles, Hutton; Warner. -Uanrwst, 14 miles, Evans. -Capel Curig. CERIG Y DRUIDIAN, (the abode of the Druids,) is a pleasant village, in Den¬ bighshire, famed in Camden’s time for some remains of druidic worship. These sacred reliques have long since been re- i moved, to form a wall round a farm yard: they consisted chiefly of cromlechs and kist vaens, or stone chests. Upon the first hill, e. ofthis village, and distant one mile, is Pen Gwerwyn, the small re¬ mains of a castle once belonging to the celebrated Caractacus. As the traveller approaches the top of the hill, which is of easy ascent, he finds a trench of 36 feet 1 wide. Some of the soil having been thrown upon the outside, constitutes a mound 3 feet high, but the greater part having been cast on the inner side, forms a rampart about 15 feet from the bottom of the trench. This rampart encircling the highest part of the hill, rather of an oval form, is every where visible, in some places nearly perfect, and encloses 6 or 7 acres. Ascending 60 or 70 feet more, he meets with the foundation of the wall, of thickness about 6 feet, which includes the area, running parallel with the trench below, and enclosing 4 or 5 acres. The prospects from this hill are extensive, but barren. We are told that when Carac¬ tacus the son of Bran ab Llyr, was routed by the Romans, (whether at Caer Caradoc, Gair ditches, or the Wrekin, is uncertain,) he retreated to this castle for safety, but was, withhis whole family, betrayed to the enemy, by queen Cartismunda, and sent prisoner to Rome, where he delivered that celebrated speech referred to by all j our historians. Tyddyn Tydyr, in the parish of Llanvihangel Gtyny Myvyr, near Cerig y Druidion is the native place of mr. Owen Jones, who for many years has made the study of Welsh literature his recreation from the cares of an extensive trade. He has undertaken a work which is likely to prove an important illustra¬ tion of the early history of Cambria. It is called the Myvyrian Archaiology, of which 3 volumes have been printed in the welsh language. The 1 st. contains the poetry of the welsh bards : the 2d, Triads, Genealogy of the british saints; Chronicle of the kings of Britain ; Chronicle of the princes ; Chronicle of the Saxons ; Life of Gruffydhap Cynan, from 1079 to 1137; Divisions of Wales ; Parishes of Wales: the 3d, Ethic triads and proverbs; Triads of law, and the principles of government of the ancient Britons ; Ancient music copied in an obsolete notation. Mr. Jones’s expences in obtaining materials 354 >53 CERIG Y DRUIDIAN. CERNIOGE. Tot this work have been very heavy ; for in the course of the last four years he has procured transcripts of all the works of the poets from about the year 1300 to the close of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. This collection is said to amount to sixty Uo volumes of about 450 pages each. On the road toCorwyn, at the distance pf 4jm., occurs Pont y Glyn, or Pant Llyn Dyffws, a bridge of one arch, about 50 feet n the span, bestriding a deep and dismal :hasm, through which the hoarse sound- ng Glyn rushes into a deepened bed, tnd roars over the disjointed rocks be¬ neath. The stupendous fissure, full 200 ,'eet deep, is overhung by large forest rees, the branches of which throw a dark- :ned shade over the awful gulph. The oadfrom Bala to Ruthin here crosses that o Corvven, from Cerig y druidion and Llanwrst, on his approach to Corvven, he tourist passes over the Dee, upon an >ld stone bridge of 6 arches. The road o Corwen lies through a pleasing, quiet rale, bounded to the right by the Berwyn nountains. A vast rocky precipice, be- ng an abrupt termination of the lofty Ferwyn, rears itself above the town to Ihe west. The road hence to Ruthin lies over aleak and barren heath-clad hills, among .vhich at Clngcainog, was discovered the ottered stone, described by Camden, illusive to a roman British chieftain, who trobably fell in battle near this place. AIMILINI TOVISAG. lead /Emilianus Tovisag, or Tovisaci, i. Emilian, a chieftain, or general. ! To Cernioge, 3 miles, Hutton. — Ponty Glyn,4| miles, Hutton. — Corwen, 10 miles, Evans; Warner. From Cerig y Druidion, 3^ miles. -Capet Curig, 17 miles, Hutton. -Llanwrst, 11 miles, Warner. CERNIOGE, in Denbighshire,isaliam- etof 3 or 4 houses, in an elevated sitpa- ton, on the road to Llanrwst, remarkable or nothing except a tolerably good inn. Five miles on the road to Llanwrst is 'rallt y Gw g, a terrace of more than 2m. ong. On the left appears the beautiful leep vale of Llanrwst, with Conwy in the ermination. Advancing to Corwen along an open 13 plain, the ground begins to be more wood¬ ed, better cultivated, and more produc¬ tive. Within l£m. of Corwen on the 1. is Rug, the splendid residence of col. Salisbury. At the bridge over the'Dee, within a mile of Corwen, is a pretty lodge, built by sir Richard Hoare, bart. Of the roads front Cernioge to Bala, an anonymous traveller gives the follow¬ ing account. The only safe road to Bala for a carriage is a distance of 18m. By the suggestion, however, of some evil genius, we took the reputed nearest road through the wildest part of Merioneth¬ shire, and thus missed seeing the famous citadel of the Druids, whither Caractacus retired after his defeat at Caer Caradoc, situated about |m. on the 1. from Ceric y druiddion. Having retraced the road to Capel Voelas about a mile, we turned to the left, and entered upon an execrable road. We then mounted a very long and naked hill, from which we had an exten¬ sive view of the Caernarvonshire moun¬ tains, and of a dreary and uninteresting country around. Noticed a small lake beyond Cernioge, in an elevated tract; and passing a high single stone, the inten¬ tion of which we are unacquainted, soon began to ascend by a very narrow road, where the carriage had barely room to stand. On reaching the bottom, through which ran a brook, we saw a few scatter¬ ed farms. We had next to encounter a very steep ascent. The scenery from the apex was uncommonly wild and dreary ; a few straggling cattle and sheep only re¬ lieved the weary eye, and indicated that the abodes of men were not far distant. Even vegetable nature seemed to shrink from a situation so bleak, for not a tree or a shrub was to be seen for several miles. The road, however, now took a gradual descent, in an improved form,and about 5m. from Bala, we began to enter on a tract of increasing fertility, till we came in sight of the river Trea-enjn, a con¬ siderable stream, which falls into the riv¬ er Dee near Bala. The mountains here assumed a less lofty character than those we had traced in the morning ; and the vale on our r. increased in beauty and richness. The cottages had, however, a more wild and uncomfortable appearance than those in Caernarvonshire ; and in¬ stead of being covered with slates, and furnished with chimnies, they were il}- 335 CERNIOGE. CHELTENHAM. 356 thatched, and the apertures fov the smoke came again to England, and the man- vere very rude. Wheat, bailey, and ar. or was vested in the nunnery of Sion, in tilicial grasses began to appear, particu- Middlesex. From Henry 8 to James 1, larly as we were winding round a hill the manor was vested in the crown. which led us within sight of Bala lake. At last we descended to the town, situ¬ ated in a beautiful level vale, about a mile in breadth, and crossing a fine bridge o- ver the Dee, enjoyed an agreeable view of mr. Price’s villa, upon the slope of the hill above, amid delightful plantations of firs, larches, birch, and other trees.—-Mod¬ ern Travels, vol. iv. p. 126. To Cap r l Ceric, pass Ventre Voclas, Cm.; in advancing to the latter, is a road to Llanrwst, 9m., having reached it, a a road to Conwy lies on the r. 6m. Rhydd Llanfair, 4m., on the r., a new built seat of the rev.-Humphries, and a little out of the road, a good inn. Hetties, 4m-; here is a curious natural bridge, formed of the rocks in the stream ; and 2m. beyond, on the r. is a grand waterfall, called Rhuia- ilyr 7j ivcnnol. Cap t l Ceric, 4 miles. To Llanrwst pass Cupel I'oelas , 2m. 3f. (lrn. beyond, on the r. is Voelas-liall, lion. C. Finch.) Llanrwst, 8m. If. To Capet Ceng, 15 mi es. — Llanwrst, 10J miles, Hutton. — Cerig y Druidion, 3£ miles, Hutton; War¬ ner. — Bala, 12 miles. — Corwen, 13 miles. — Bangor, 27^ mile6. vy yy/yy yyyyyy/yy/ »y//yy r r f f r * CHELTENHAM is a market town, in the hundred of Cheltenham, Gloucester¬ shire, situated at the extremity of the delightful vale of Evesham, but is gener¬ ally called the vale of Gloucester, from it’s contiguity to that city. It’s name seems derived from the brook Chelt, Which runs near the town on it’s way to the Severn, or from the saxon Chilt, an elevated place, and ham or haam a house Or home. In the reign of the Conquer¬ or, Cheltenham was an ancient demesne. In the time of William 3, the manor and hundred were granted to William Long Tspee, otherwise Longsword, a natural son of Henry, by Fair Rosamond, after whom £his son being slain abroad and leaving no issue) the title became extinct, and fell to the crown. By an unknown series of conveyances, it afterwards came into the possession of the priory of Mont- bui v in Normandy, and thence the title James granted it William Dutton, esq., from whom it has descended to James Dutton, esq., the present lord of the man¬ or who, on May 11, 1784, was created lord Shircborne. Cheltenham is some¬ what guarded from the north and east by the chain of the Coteswold hills, which form an ample bow, on the other hand are the Malvern mountains, and a long range of summits which melt into the horizon of S. Wales. The town is chiefly built with brick, consisting prin¬ cipally of one street, called the High- street, running from n-w. for about Im. In consequence of a late act of Parliament, obtained in 1786, the town is well paved and lighte d. This place, within the last 20 or 30 years has been almost renewed, or made. The pleasant meadow Cambray is covering with houses, and detatched resi¬ dences are continually rising. Acolonade w'as intended to run from the centre of the town dowm to the spa ; a fragment of it only is completed. According to the cen¬ sus of 1811, the town contained 8000 inhabitants. In the year 1780, the whole number of lodging-houses did not much exceed thirty, at present they are con¬ siderably more than 600. The build¬ ings which were supposed to be rising too rapidly are still proceeding. Indeed the profusion of the waters, the improved state of the roads, the formation of new ones, in various directions, the addition of rail-roads, and above all, a degree of public taste and’spirit which influence men of property, indicate a still greater exten¬ sion of theinfluenefcand importanceofthis beautiful vicinity. It is greatly owing to the officious zeal or interested attention of thelate Simeon Moreau, the first master of the ceremonies that Cheltenham has ris¬ en to it’s present celebrity; and he left the revenues of his short reign in a flour¬ ishing state to his w'orthy successor James King, esq., who was also m. c. at the up¬ per rooms, Bath. To this gentleman the public are under peculiar obligations, it being evident that through his means the amusements have been established upon an elegant plan, and between 5 and 6000/. laid out for the accommodation of vis- tors. In truth, the line of conduct 357 CHELTENHAM. 358 which mr. King lias pursued for twenty years, the zeal with which he enters upon every design calculated to benefit the community, merit the warmest tribute that can be paid. He has been very in¬ defatigable also in establishing the new Spa. The New Market-house is an el¬ egant stone building, well supplied with flesh-meat, poultry and vegetables. There are also eels, trout, salmon, chad, elvers, ice. Besides 2 statute Fairs for hiring servants, held on Thursday before Mich¬ aelmas day, and the Thursday following, there are 4 for cattle, ice., on the 2d Thursday in April, on Holy Thursday, on the 5th of August, 2d. Thursday in Sep¬ tember, and on the 3d Thursday in Decem- cember. A newspaper is printed here. The town and neighbourhood are supplied with coals from Glocester, upon a rail-road, from Tew'kesbury, and from a wharf 5m. from the town at the head of a small canal branching from the Severn at Wainlode-hill, and running to Combe-hill. The Church stands near the centre of the town. It consists of a transept and 2 aisles, a tower is in the middle, finished with a lofty octangular spire, and containing 8 bells. The beau¬ tiful circular window divided into 33 compartments and 15 feet in diameter, has been often noticed. The church was built in 1011, and originally belonged to the nunnery of Sion, it contains a good organ. The church-yard measures 220 feet by 170, the walks are broad and commodious, shaded by lime-trees. The old cross nearthe circular window before- mentioned, is 17 feet high, but contains nothing curious. The benefice is an en¬ dowed curacy. A Chapel was built in 1809, by subscription, where the church service is performed, they are called In¬ dependents ; a good organ is in the place. The town contains a Hospital and Free-School, both founded in 1574 by Richard Pates, esq. In 1683 George Townsend, esq., allotted some small ten¬ ements, towards the maintenance of this charity. In 1627, mr. John Walwyn gave to the poor 2 1. ltls. yearly, for ever. These, and some minor charities, were consolidated in 1667, and laid out in the purchase of lands called the Poor's Grounds, which, tho’ worth only 8 1 5s. per annum, at that time, are now let for 40/. In 1721, Lady Capel gave 105/. to support a charity-school. In 1737, Sun¬ day-Schools were established, which have been liberally supported since that time. The Inns are the Plough, George, Shel¬ don’s Hotel, Bell, Fleece, the Crown, and the Lamb. The Hoarding and Lodg¬ ing-Houses arc Smith’s, Haile’s Styles’s, miss Morgan’s, Kent’s, and Fisher’s; Sheldon’s Hotel is also founded on a plan ofextensive accommodation. Other lodg¬ ing-houses are abundant, with rooms ready furnished. There is one very large and elegant Ball or Assemblij-llooni kept open till the beginning of October. There are 2 sets of rooms with excellent tables at each, called the New-Rooms; at one of these are two Billiard-Tables. In the course of the season there are gen¬ erally 3 or 4 Concerts. The Theatre at Cambray mead is in every respect large and commodious. It was built in 1804 by mr. Watson, the spirited proprietor and manager. The scenery and apparatus are superior to most country theatres. Messrs. Watson & Co. are likewise pro¬ prietors of the Glocester, Tewkesbury, and Warwick theatres. The Circulating Libraries are by mrs. Harward, in the Col- lonade, consisting of Antiquity, Topogra¬ phy, History, the Belles Lettres, Novels, &c. Henney’s contains a collection of books equally extensive, and is rapidly enlarging in every department of litera¬ ture; Ruff’s is also a respectable library ; Here likewise, music, and musical instru¬ ments are lent out or sold. Mrs. Jones’s Circulating Library, nearly opposite the old Market house; Selden’s Shop in High- street, is not con'ned to books ; he dis¬ plays a variety of ornaments for both la¬ dies and gentlemen, the nick-knackery of Bond-street, jewelry and cutlery, Tun- bndgetoys.and perfumery. Mostofthese libraries contain french books, and have the London and several provincial and foreign newspapers for the use ot their subscribers. There are three Banks, which open at 10 and shut at 3. The Walk leading to the Well, may be said to commence at the n. e. gate of the church-yard, to the s-w. gate, between two rows of lime-trees. From the latter gate a neat gravel walk leads to thechurch mead ; and through this is continued to the river Chelt, over which is thrown a slender draw-bridge, to connect it with the public w’alks. Next opens a mag¬ nificent gravelled promenade 20 leet wide, shaded by elms. A quickset hedge 359 CHELTENHAM. 360 bounds this walk on each side, and here and there a bench or scat is stationed. The length of this walk from its com¬ mencement to the pump, which stands in it’seentre, is nearly 600feet. In theretro- speetthe church spire rises in the extremi¬ ty, bounded by the Cleeve-Hill and the hour and minute of the clock may be distinguished. On the e. side of the Pump square is the Spa or Long Room, 66 feet by 23, built in 1775, at the joint ex¬ pense of the late mr. Skillicorne, the ground landlord, and mr. Miller, the late renter of the spa, for the accommodation of the company while drinking the wa¬ ter; and on the w. side, is a building of similar dimensions, occupied by mrs. Forty, the manager of the pump ; Fau- sana, with his Repository of the fine arts; and Riviere, with his admirable collection of jewelry. The property now belongs ts the rev. Nash Skillicorne, and rented by William Capstack, esq. In a tempo¬ rary box, secured from the weather, a band performs every morning, from half past 7 till 9, depending on the liberality of the visitors for a remuneration. The pump opens at 7. The walk immedi¬ ately above the well is equally shaded by a plantation of limes for more than 300 feet, beyond which a serpentine walk commences, upwards of 500 feet long, the sides of which are bordered with ris¬ ing elms, which leads to the Orchard Well. At the termination of the whole is a picturesque villa called the Grove Cottage. In the pump-room is a book open for subscriptions to keep the walks in proper repair, and for the use of the room. This valuable spring rises at one third of a mile s. of the church. The ground originally belonged to mr. Higgs, of Charlton Kings, who, ignorant of the treasure it contained, sold it to mr. Mason in 1716. After the discovery ofthe spring, it remained open. In 1718, however it was railed in, locked up, and a shed built over it; and in consequence o some ex¬ periments made on the water by dr. Baird of Worcester, and dr. Greville ofGloces- ter, it’s virtues begin to be known, and for 3 years it was sold as a medicine, till it was leased to mr. Spencer in 1721, at 616 per annum. Capt. Henry Skillicorne, became possessed of the spa, in right of his wife. In 1738 he built the old room, on the w. side of the pump, for the use of company, a building over the well, and apump on the e. side, rising in the form of an obelisk. At the same time he laid out the paved court that environs it, plan¬ ned the upper and lower walks, planted the trees, and continued to improve the natural beauties of the place. In 1740 dr. Short pronounced this water, to be a neutral purging chalybeate, superior to any thing of the kind in England. Dr. Fothergil and other chymists analyzed it. It’s parts are Epsom and Glauber salts ; a small portion of chalybeate, and some fixed air. It’s salts prove attenuantand carthartic; it’s chalybeate bracing, and it’s air exhilerating. In mildness, cer¬ tainty, and expedition of operation, it is almost unrivalled, which renders it pecu¬ liarly serviceable in hypochondriac and scorbutic cases. It is singularly effica¬ cious in all bilious complaints, obstruc¬ tions of the liver, and spleen, dyspepsia, loss of appetite, in habitual costiveness, and obstinate obstructions. It restores relaxed habits, and in nervous complaints it has proved extremely salutary. A pint of the water taken at two draughts before breakfast is generally sufficient, but there are always physicians or resident apothe¬ caries, who should be consulted, as in some cases, the waters prove efficacious or detrimental from the mode of taking them. See Dr. Smith’s “ Observations on the Nature, Use, and Abuse of the Chel¬ tenham Water.” In 1781, the late mr. Skillicorne built a mansion for the earl of Fauconbcrg, at the distance of two fields w. of the spring, upon an eminence, commanding an extensive and beautiful prospect, where their majesties and prin¬ cesses resided during their visit to Chelten¬ ham. It is called Buy’s Hill Lodge. The king, before his departure, ordered a well to be sunk, to procure a supply of water for domestic purposes. At the depth of 52 feet, however, a mineral water was discovered, which proved to be similar to the old well. A pump was then plac¬ ed in it, and it was opened with accom¬ modations for company. This is now called the King’s Well. From the ter¬ race before the pump room is a line view of Leckhampton-hill, the old well, and the town. A pleasant walk connects the two wells. The first of these Chaly¬ beate Springs did not attract notice till tire year 1802, tho’ it had long before been made use of by the common people. It is situate in a meadow, about 300 yards 361 CHELTENHAM. 363 from the mill, at the higher part of the town. It is the property of rar. Barret, who has erected a pump-room, opened a book, and obtained a great number of subscribers. Passing a gate nearly op¬ posite the Orchard l Veil , enter upon rar. Thomson’s delightful pleasure Grounds, to Montpelier Spa, where an elegant build¬ ing and a spacious pump-room has been erected for the use of subscribers, with a viranda in front. No less than 6 difFerent kinds of water are produced at this spa, all under one roof, conducted thither at a great expense. For their qualities. Sec. see dr. Jameson's “ Treatise on the Chel¬ tenham Waters and Bilious Diseases,” 8r. The Octagon Turret which adjoins a goth¬ ic Cottage, contains 3 pumps, distinguish¬ ed by the Chalybeate Saline, the Strong Chalybeated Saline, and the Weak Saline Waters. The Hijgeia-House, situated at a short distance from the Baths, contains 3 pumps, which convey a Carbonated Steel Water, a Chalybeated Weak Saline, and a Weak Sulphuretted Saline. The Rides, Walks, &c. in these grounds, the property of H. Thomson, esq. can scarcely be prais¬ ed too much. His New Baths, both cold, hot, and vapour, are far more magnificent than any other in Cheltenham. In short, these delightful premises owe their beau¬ ties and conveniences to an expenditure of not less than 30,000/. Mr. Poucci plays the harp at Montpelier Spa, during the season. This Spa was discovered in the beginning of 1804. It is situated upon an elevated spot of ground, 300 yards from the old well, in a lane leading to Badgeworth. The water resembles that of Harrogate. Mr. Smith, proprietor of the Boarding-House, has discovered a Strong Saline Spring, near Alstone.— Chiefly from Ruff’s Account of Chelten¬ ham, and the Cheltenham Guide. For a long time Hot-baths were a disid- cratum here, but Freeman has fitted up some in the High-street, on an excel¬ lent plan, which meet with great en¬ couragement. In July 1811, n Roman Pavement was discovered in Whithington common field, near Frog-mill, on the London road, about 6 m. from Cheltenham ; it was taken up, under the direction of mr. Lyson, and sent to the British Museum. The principal Excursion from Chel¬ tenham is N. to Presbury, Southam, Postlip, Winchcomb, and Suclley Castle. Having left the town, by going down Winchcomb- street, and arriving at the turnpike, a fine expanse opens. ’ In front the Cleeve-cloud hills stretching towards Leckhampton. To the 1. the lofty Malvern mountains. The road next becomes winding, and sheltered by trees. Prestbury and the ele¬ gant mansion of mr. Capel. On entering the village mr. Higgs’s house is the first on the 1. On the r. nearly opposite the Kings-arms is a large brick building the residence of Thomas Eaghott, esq. On the back of the road on the 1. is a curious tea-garden called The Grotto, where din¬ ner parties are accommodated. The gar¬ den abounds with shrubs and flowers; up¬ on a raised terrace is a Chinese temple ; on one hand is a circular rustic building, and on the other a stone tower. On the r. upon the brow of the hill, is Hewlelts, the seat of James Agg, esq. Leaving Prestbury, turn to the 1. following the main road, which carries you towards Cleeve Cloud. Pass an ancient mansion called Southam, the residence of the De la Beres. This is the oldest mansion in the county. It was built in the year 1501. The flooring is curious and there are l portraits of Edward 6 by Holbein, and a lady, supposed to be Jane Shore. Ad¬ vancing up the hill, the retrospect affords an immense variety, terminated by the Sugar-loaf and Skyrrid-vawr. To the r. appear Malvern-hills, to the 1. the chain of the Coteswold ; beneath lies Chelten¬ ham, a little further is Glocestcr ; the Severn to it’s left, spreads to the size of a lake. Upon the surface of the hill is an encampment. After passing Postlip, where is a considerable paper manufac¬ tory, you come in sight of H'inchcomb, distant 7 miles from Cheltenham. In the year 787, Offa, king of Mercia, built a nunnery at Winchcomb, and in 798, Ken- ulph, king of Mercia, founded in it’s place a monastery for 300 monks of the order of St. Benedict. The church is a fine old building, covered with lead, and adorned with battlements and pinnacles. Sudley, distant half a mile, is remarkable only as the residence of great persons from very early ages. Two miles n.l. of Winchcomb are the remains of Hales Ab¬ bey, erected in 1246, by Richard earl of Cornwall, 2d. son of King Joluj, 364 363 CHELTENHAM. CHEPSTOW. Another Excursion southward. A- bout a quarter of a mile from the top of the street at Cheltenham the road divides, that on the r. leads through SandfordField to Leckhampton-Hill. On the 1. is a large brick house in the middle of a park, the residence of Wm. Hunt Prinn, esq. From the top of the hill there may be seen an excellent prospect of the vale, extending from Worcestershire, bounded by the Shropshire and Malvern Hills, on one side, and to Kingroad and Somersetshire on the other; having in front, Glocester, Tewkesbury, Upton, and the meander¬ ing Severn. About 5 miles from Cheltenham is Birdlip, commanding uncommon beauties of prospect. Half a mile before you come to it, at a public house called the Balloon, the old London road from Frogmill to Glocester crosses. The descent between some cliffs on the r, forms an interesting foreground, to the picture beyond. A- bout 1| miles n. w. from Birdlip is Whit¬ comb t ?, the seat of sir Wm. Hicks, bart. From a vista upon the hill, not a mile from the house, which stands in the cen¬ tre of the valley, is a fine bird’s-eye-view of the subjacent vale and the river Severn. To the 1. appears the forest of Dean, and the Sugar-loaf mountain, near Abergaven¬ ny ; in front the Malvcrn-hills, with the Welsh mountains behind ; and to the r- is a view of Tewkesbury and of the city of Worcester, On the road to Glocester at the distance of 1^ miles is Bedlam ; on the r. the village of Swindon. Quitting the road which lies straight forwards to Tewkes¬ bury, 7tm. turn to the 1. from Bedlam; where is Haydon-Hill ; at the bottom is a a public-house, and a summer-house in a tree, ljm. Sluvcrton bridge, over a branch of the Severn, lim. Wooten, 2§m. (on the 1. is the old road to Frog-mill, 12m.) Glocester, lm. ToTewkesbury pass Bedlam, lm. 5f. Uclcington, 1 m. (2m. beyond is a road on the 1. to Gloucester, 6Jm.) Walton, 3|m. Surwick, l|m. Tewkesbury, lm. 3f. To Glocester, 9jmiles. — Tewkesbury, 9 miles. — Hereford, 40 miles. — Muiimouth,35 miles. — Malvern, 22 miles. — Worcester, m, k'S. yy«y/yyy/yyy/y///y////yy/y/y/y/z/y/y/y From the New Passage, 5 miles, Barber. -Tintern Abbey, 6 miles, Coxe; Skrine; Warner; Manby. -Striguil Castle, 10 miles, Evans. - Monmouth, 15 miles, Wyndham. -Newnham, 15 miles. CHEPSTOW, Monmouthshire, is an irregularly-built trading place. The houses appear respectable, and the inhab¬ itants opulent, and active. In 1801 it’s population amounted to 2080 inhabitants, with 348 houses. Mr. Coxe says, “ I have seldom visited any town whose pictur¬ esque situation surpasses that of Chep¬ stow ;” and mr. Wyndham asserts that “ The beauties are so uncommonly excel¬ lent, that the most exact critic in landscape would scarcely wish to alter a position in the assemblage of woods, cliffs, ruins, and water.” Chepstow was once fortified, and the walls strengthened with round towers, stretching from the bank of the river below the bridge, to the works of the castle. The name was probably de¬ rived from Cheapian stowe, meaning a place of traffic. The Castle is said to have had different appellations ; by the britons called Castell Gwent, or Casgwent the saxons Cheapstowe, and by the Nor¬ mans Estrighoiel, or Striguil. In Domes¬ day-book it is called Castellum de Estrig¬ hoiel. It was built and inhabited by the earls of Striguil or Chepstow. The Castle is situated upon the brow of a precipice, overhanging the r. bank of the Wye, the n. side lies close to the edge, and appears a part of the cliff, the same ivy covering both. The other parts were defended by a moat, and consist of massive walls, flanked with lofty towers. The area is large, and divided into 4 courts. The grand entrance to the e. is a circular arch between two large towers, (formerly en¬ closing a portcullis) of norman architec¬ ture, introductory to the first court, which contains the shells of the grand hall, kitchens, and other apartments. The hall has been a magnificent room in the pointed style, paved with burnt tiles or bricks, having glazed surfaces, and paint¬ ed figures of birds and flowers; but no trace of a fire-place can be found in all the castle. The hall has been converted into a glasshouse. The most perfect of these rooms are tenanted by a family. Some ornamented tiles are stuck upon the walls. 24 chimneys remain ; one is 365 CHEPSTOW. 366 handsomely decorated on the outside and glazed within, to prevent the accumula¬ tion of soot. At the s. e. angle of this court is a round tower, called Harry Mar¬ ten’s Tower, which was the keep or cita¬ del. The inside front is posterior to the original structure. On the w. side of this court, near a round tower called the old kitchen, a gate opens into the 2d. court, now a garden, at the end of which anoth¬ er gateway leads into the 3d. court, where is an elegant building called the Chapel. The inside is a grand area of 90 feet in length and 30 in breadth; the roof has fallen, the remaining walls are not less than 40 feet high. A range of apertures for beams in the side walls, indicate that it had an upper apartment, or that they were intended to support a gallery. A range of niches appear within the walls of this chapel, at the height of 18 feet. Ecclesiastic antiquaries suppose these to have been intended to have been occu¬ pied by the 12 apostles, and military anti¬ quaries think these arches have been filled by figures of the 12 Knights who accompanied Fitzhamon in the conquest of Glamorgan ; but, as there are at least 15 of them, neither of these conjectures seem tenable. A stratum of roman brick may be observed in the wall, which is some authority for attributing the struc¬ ture to Julius Csesar. Sir Harry Engle- field ascribes them to the saxons who brought them from the ruins of Caerwent. The grand entrance was by a flight of steps, still visible on the outside of the e. wall, through a semicircular arched door¬ way, now closed. Within this entrance, a staircase in the wall ascends to a door on a level with a range of arches which opened into the chamber or gallery. The original character of this building is sax- on ; the decorations are in the pointed or norman. At the s-w angle of the 3d. court is a staircase ascending to the battle¬ ments and towers ; this court is used as a garden : it formerly communicated by a draw-bridge with the 4th or last court, which now can only be entered by creep¬ ing through a sally-port in the s. wall. The w. entrance of the castle was strength¬ ened with 3 portcullises and a draw¬ bridge, leading into a field still called the Castle Ditch. The building of Chep¬ stow (or Estrighoiel) castle, although car¬ ried by some antiquaries to the area of Julius Caesar, appears to have taken place in the 11th century, when William Fitz- osborne, earl of Hereford, built it to de- fend the ample possessions granted him in this part of the island by William the Conqueror, his relation. His son and successor, Roger de Britolio, taking up arms against Ins sovereign, was deprived of his vast inheritance; and Chepstow castle became soon after transferred to the family of Clare, from which it descended to the Plantageneis, the Herberts, and the Somersets, in the last of which fami¬ lies it is vested. The castle and site now belong to the duke of Beaufort, but were held on a lease of lives which expired in 1599, on the death of mrs. Williams. This fortress is remarkable in history for the gallant defence it made, with a slen¬ der garrison, against a considerable force headed by Oliver Cromwell ; but after a long seige it was taken by an assault, in which nearly all it’s defendeis were sacri¬ ficed. The tower before-mentioned, at the s-e. extremity of the castle, is that where Henry Marten wasconfined. Mart- en was decidedly,as to political principles, a strenuous advocate for a republican gov¬ ernment, and during the turbulent reign of the first Charles he was among the first who assisted in bringing that unfortunate monarch to the block. On the usurpa¬ tion of Cromwell he appeared not among the number of his friends. After the res¬ toration of the monarchical government had been effected by general Monk, with a body of 8000 men, Marten surrendered on the proclamation and was tried as a regicide at the Old B tiley. He confessed the fact of attending the trial and signing the warrant for the king’s death, but de¬ nied any malicious intention. He rested his defence on the necessity of obedience to the existing government,allowing that his majesty had the best title under heav¬ en, to the dignity of King, being called thereto by the representative body of the people.” He was hove ever found guilty, petitioned for pardon, which he obtained on condition of perpetual imprisonment. He was first confined in the tower, but soon removed to the castle of Chepstow, where his wife was permitted to ics.de with him ; he was allowed to enjoy his property, to receive visits, and attended by a guard, to frequent the houses of the neighbouring gentry, particularly that ot 367 CHEPSTOW. 368 St. Pierre, where his portrait is still pre¬ served. For thirty years, secluded from mankind, here Marten lingered. Often have these walls echoed his footsteps, as with even tread lie pac’d around his prison. Not to him did nature’s fair varieties exist; he never saw the sun’s delightful beams, save when through yon high bars he pour’d a sad and broken splendour-. Southey. Marten lived to the advanced age of 18, and died by a stroke of apoplexy in the 20th year of his confinement. He was buried in the chancel of the parish church of Chepstow. Over his ashes was placed a stone with an inscription, which one of the vicars ordered to be removed into the body of the church. The epitaph was composed by himself, and is as follows. “ HERE September the 9, in the year of our Lord 1680, was buried a true Englishman, who in Berkshire was well known to love his country’s freedom ’bove his own, but living immured full twenty year, had time to write, as does appear, HIS EPITAPH. II ere or elsewhere (all’s one, to you, to me,) E arth, air, or water,gripes my ghostless dust N one knows how suor. to be by fire set free R eader, if yon an oft tryed rule will trust, Y ou’ll gladly do and suffer what you must. M y life was spent in serving you, and you. And death’s my pay (it seems) and welcome too; R evenge destroying but itself, while 1 T o birds of prey leave my old cage, and fly, E samples preach to th’ eye, care then, (mine says) N ot how you end, but how you spend your dayes.” “ As we advanced,” says mr. Barber, “ towards the massive battlements and lofty turrets of Chepstow’s ancient castle, the grand entrance, which is a norman arch flanked by circular towers, represent¬ ed by the repulsive gloom of feudal re¬ serve and violence; even the knocker was emblematic of hostility; for we thun¬ dered at the portal for admission with a cannon ball suspended by a chain. The warder of the castle did not wind his horn, in reply, nor, raising himself on the ram¬ parts, did he demand ourquality and busi¬ ness; but a smiling damsel conjuring up all her rosy dimples, caused the gate to revolve upon it’s creaking hinges, and welcomed us into the castle.” On his re¬ turn he mentions that he was conducted to a subterraneous chamber with an en- groined roof, excavated in the rock, be¬ neath the ruin, and opening to the over¬ hanging brovv of the cliff. Here, and from several points in perambulating this ruin, the rapid Wye is seen rolling at a great depth beneath ; and at other times the green waving hills of Piercefield rise with peculiar grandeur, darkening the river with their lengthened shades. There are several remains of religious houses at Chepstow and it’s vicinity. The Priory of St. Kynemark occupied a pleasant eminence to the w. of the town. The remains of the priory are still visible near the turnpike leading from Chepstow to Monmouth, not far from Piercefield Lodge, consisting of stone wallsenclosing the garden and yard of a farm-house, call¬ ed St. Kynemark’s farm. The ruins of the chapel do not exist. The founda¬ tions of another chapel, which stood near the priory, at the w. end of a field called Upper Dean, only remain. If the travel¬ ler pass to these ruins along the Shire Newton road, and through the fields at the back of Mr Baldwyn’s house, called the Mount, he will enjoy a highly gratify¬ ing view of Chepstow, and the environs. In the town are the remains of several chapels. Near the Beaufort-arms are two stone buildings, used for a barn and coach¬ house, one with a saxon, and the other with a norman or pointed arched doorway. Opposite the Beaufort-arms is a small vault, under FydelPs long room; the stone roof is vaulted and engroined. In St. Ann’s or Bridge-street, are the remains of 2 ancient religious edifices. One of these was the chapel of St. Ann, now us¬ ed as a bark-house; the other adjoins to Powis’s Alms house. A Priory for monks of the benedictine order was founded here soon after the conquest, called Stri- gule or Striguil monastery. It was made a cell to the abbey of Corneille in Nor¬ mandy. At the dissolution, it contained 3 monks, the value of it's revenues was 32/. per annum. The present parish Church includes most of it’s remains, which forms a curious specimen of early architecture. A tower stood at the east¬ ern end of the present building, which fell down. At the angles on the ou side are several ancient clustered columns, whieh have supported one of the arches. Beyond this the choir extended. The en¬ trance was by a semicircular arched door¬ way, ornamented with crenated, billeted, and other mouldings, resting on 5 short re¬ ceding columns upon a side, without pe¬ destals, with simple uniform capitals. A similar decorated arch of smaller dimen- 369 CHEPSTOW. 370 sions springing from 2 collateral columns, is on each side the door-way; but is half ob¬ scured and disfigured by an external porch, of which mr. Cox has given a plate in his Tour, p. 364. The present nave seems to have been considerably larger. It is separated from the ailes by ranges of cir- :ular arches, resting upon massive piers. On the s. side of the chancel, under a can¬ opied monument, supported by 8 Corin¬ thian pillars, is a whole length figure of Henry, second earl of Worcester. See an engraved view in Sandford’s geneo- logical Hist, of G. Britain. Chepstow Bridge is a singular structure; it was for¬ merly entirely built with timber ; but the piers on the Monmouthshire half are con¬ structed of stone. The flooring of this Bridge is similar to that of Caerleon, form¬ ed of thick planks, which are kept firm .n their places by tenons, or wedges of wood. It has been frequently asserted that the flooring is loose, and rises with the :ide, which is not the case. The middle pier, a massive pillar of stone, separates the counties of Monmouth and Glocester. The floor on the Glocestershire side is supported by wooden piers nearly 40 feet in height, resting upon platforms of stone. The carpentry is ingenious and supposed to be formed on the roman mod¬ el. The tide has been said to rise higher hete than in any other part of the world, even to the height of 10 feet; but 56 feet has been found the highest point to which it has risen during the last century. The cause of this extraordinary swell proceeds from the rocks of Beachley and Aust, which, protruding far into the Severn, near the mouth of the Wye, obstruct the flow of the tide, and impel it with increas¬ ed rapidity into the latter river. Chepstow supplies Herefordshire and this part of Monmouthshire with imports by the Wye, and exports the native produc¬ tions of timber, grain, iron, coal, mill¬ stones, oak, bark, and cider. This place is the centre of commerce for all towns on the Lug and the Wye, and some of it’s ships are sent to the Baltic and Oporto. Several vessels trade to London, and a market-boat sails regularly to Bristol ev¬ ery T uesday, and returns on Thursday or jFriday. Great quantities of salmon are (caught in the Wye and the Severn. In times of peace it carries on a considerable trade; but of latter days, alas! such times are rare. Tho’ there be no manufactures in Chepstow, yet several are established in the neighbouring vallies of llton and Mounton. These vallies are watered by a lively stream, which is supplied from the springs which rise in Wentwood, and turns 1 fulling-mill, 4 corn-mills, and 6 paper-mills. The brook suddenly disap¬ pears in the fields, and after a subterra¬ neous passage of one mile, bursts out at the foot of a hill, near the Long Orchard, where it is called the Well-head. It falls into the Severn at the Pill of St. Pierre. In the garden of a house in Bridge-street is a well which at high tide becomes per¬ fectly dry, but returns soon after the ebb. The well is 32 feet deep, and frequently contains 14 feet of water. In the beginning of 1806, the inhabitants of Chepstow were gratified with the com¬ mencement of the building of a large corn-market, assembly-room, &c. The principal Inns are the Beaufort-arms, the Three-Cranes, the George, and the White-Hart. About l|m. on the road to Monmouth, a capital lodge, with iron gates, and pali- sadoes, announces the entrance to Pierce- field. The road to the Old Passace, after passing the bridge, lies up a steep hill to a turnpike gate, where turn to the right. The retrospective view is here rich and animated. It is composed of the Wye, Chepstow castle, the busy scene of a maritime port; detached from the town, 2 houses, that on the 1. is the mansion of T. Fidell, esq., the other of At the further distance of l§m., is Beach- ly and the Passage-House. The views from this place are extensive and beauti¬ ful, presenting the forest of Dean, Robin- hood-hill, [under which lies the city of Glocester.] Near Beachley at the mouth of the Wye, are the ruins of an old chap¬ el on which the stream has made great encroachments. The breadth of the Sev¬ ern across to Aust or the old Passage- house is lm. The Aust cliff, under which you land, is remarkably grand, be¬ ing a bold elevation of about 300 feet. To Tintern Abbey, the road corn, mands some luxuriant and interesting views till obscured by the wall of Pierce. field Park. After a long ascent under the shade of large trees, a charming peep at the Severn is caught through the boughs. 372 37! CHEPSTOW. and some of the recesses of Piercefield woods are here disclosed. The prospect is next obscured by the thick foliage of a forest ; but anon occasional glances are caught of a beautiful country, which op¬ enings quickly expand into an uninter¬ rupted view of the hills around Tintern Abbey. The country increases in beau¬ ty, till at the bottom of the hill the great western window of the abbey overtops the trees. On the Highroad to Monmouth, pass the Crossgreen Turnpike, with Pierce¬ field on the r. to St Aryan’s, where is an inn, 2£m. Pass Gaerhill, and Portcasseg, through Chepstow park, and Devaudon green, to Llanvihangel lor y mynydcl, 3Jm. (On the 1. to Abergavenny I4£m.) Pass on the 1. Llanishen, and Penlace, across the Olvvy river, to Trelech, where is an inn, 4 m. If. Cross Trelech common. Midway from Trelech to Monmouth pass Craig y dordd and Leidet-House on the 1.; on the r. Lc'ulet-causeway, and Penalt. Near Monmouth, Troy-House. To Mon¬ mouth, 5^ miles. To and from Piercefield, 3 miles; thence to the New Passage, 5 miles, Skrine. — Newport, 16 miles. — Piercefield,2 miles, Barber; Coxe. — To Bristol, 16 miles. — Monmouth, 15§ miles. — Caerdiff, 31 miles. Mr. Evans proceeded hence to Beachley Ferry, 3 miles, where he quitted the Principality of Wales. Mr. Warner ended his first Walk through Wales at this place. To Tintern, by water, 9 miles; Wyndham. Mr. Wyndham passed from this place to Beach- ley Ferry, 3 miles, where ire terminated his excursions. To Tintern Abbey, S miles — Old Passage, 3 miles, Manby. Commencement of mr. Bingley’s Tour. From Flint, 18 miles, Warner. - Ilarwarden, 6 miles, Wyndham, Pennant. - Gresford, 8 miles, Skrine. - Northwich, 19 miles, Gilpin. CHESTER, the Deva of the Britons, situated on rising ground above the river Dee, has the appearance, from the cross¬ ing of the 4 principal streets at r. angles, to have been indebted to the Romans for it’s foundation ; especially as there have, at different times, been discovered various remains of roman antiquity, as altars, sta¬ tues, coins, and a hypocaust or furnace for heating a sudatorium or sweating room. CHESTER. which is still to be seen at the Feathers'- inn. This city bore, in ancient times, the name of Caerlleon or Ddyfrdwy, that is, the city of legions on the river Dee, and of Caerleon Gawr, or Vawr, which has, by some, been interpreted the city of the great legion, and by others, the city of Lleon the great, who was son of Brut Darian Las, the 8th king of Britain. It was certainly the principal station of the 20th legion, surnamed victrix, of which the mattock and spade have discovered many remains, as votive altars, and bricks inscribed with it’s name and title. In several reigns subsequent to the norman conquest, Chester was made a place of rendezvous for troops in all expeditions a- gainst Wales. In later ages, king Edgar made it a seat of royal residence, after triumphing over his enemies. The his¬ tories of the times say that he was rowed up the Dee by 8 tributary kings. Some say that the king of Scotland was among these his bargemen, but the historians of that country have endeavoured to repel the scandal. After the time of William i 1, Chester continued a place of great con¬ sequence. The earls of Chester were potent princes, and even convened parli¬ aments. This city has been often ad¬ mired by strangers, on account of it’s prin¬ cipal streets having been excavated to the depth of about 8 feet out of the earth, On a level with them are low shops and warehouses; while above, and on a lev¬ el with the kitchens and court-yards, are galleries or Rows, as they are called, run¬ ning along the fronts of the houses, and affording a covered walk for foot passen¬ gers. Over these are the higher stories of the houses, appearing as if the first stories of the fronts had been laid open, pillars only being left to support the upper part of the superstructures. Four of the large streets are of a good breadth, but on the whole this city is gloomy and encumbered, venerable and singular ra¬ ther than elegant. The Castle is sit¬ uated on the n-w. extremity of the city, upon an eminence overlooking the fertile plains of the vale of Eden, where that riv¬ er winds in various sweeps. It’s square towers and turrets, flanked by extensive ramparts, have resisted the attacks of lime. The interior was composed of the usual appendages to this kind of structure; not omitting dreary dungeons, where the 374 573 CHESTER. >ensive captive lias sometimes cheated he lingering hours, by carving the imag¬ es of his worn out imagination upon the vails. The unhappy and beautiful Mary Jueen of Scotland was here confined af- cr her defeat at Langside, and after she ad thrown herself under the protection f her sister sovereign Elizabeth. It was ; ere probably, that this interesting per- onage became acquainted with her ad- lirer Thomas Howard, duke of Norfolk, •ho was the brother of lady Scroop, ’hose lord was warden of the western larches. The unfortunate queen, at the me this attachment was formed, used to 'alk in front of this castle, which yetre- lins the name of “ The Lady’s Walk,” itobably from this circumstance. Tra- ition says, that she planted with her own and the same ash trees, the spreading ranches of which formerly shaded this onsecrated walk; but these precious ,‘liques, with barbarous disregard to ev- •y sentimentof civilization or refinement, ere consigned to the axe. The cham¬ ps are still shewn where the queen of cots passed her solitary days and nights, .he walls are, however, hung round with Jnblems of decay, and the floors have elded to the tread. The ramparts ex¬ bit views of the surrounding country, rminating in a chain of mountains to ie e, and by the lofty hills of Keswick, i the w. Within, are the county jail, id courts of justice. The latter were ken down in 1790, and a netv Jail, lire-hall, &c., erected on an improved id extensive plan. In Nov. 1807, work¬ men were employed to clear away the ibbish within the bastions of the castle, reparatory to their being also converted ito court-houses. If such continues, to “ the disposition of the government of iis ancient city, the citadel will lose s original appearance. In it's ancient rm, it consisted of two immense bas- ans, or round towers, connected by a mpart of considerable extent, pierced by nbrasures. It evidently never posscss- .1 much beauty nor embellishment, but as a grotesque piece of military archi- iCture. The H alls round this city c almost the only entire specimen of is kind of ancient fortification now exist- g in Britain. Their circuit is nearly 2 m. icy are kept in repair by the inhabitants ] r tl' c purposes ol a promenade, com¬ manding a great variety and 'extent of prospect. Thence may be seen the welsh mountains, the hills of Broxton, the in¬ sulated rock of Beeston, crowned with it’s castle ; while the rich intervening flat, and the perpetually changing objects on the river, compose, in different parts, scenes extremely pleasing. Upon these walls were formerly several towers; of which only one remains, called the Phoe¬ nix Tower; and is remarkable as being the station whence Charles 1 witnessed the battle of Rowton-Moor, when the arms of the parliament were victorious. In the places of the old gates, 3 very hand¬ some, lofty, and spacious arches, over which the wall-walk is continued, have, within the last few years been erected. Above the Bridge-gate is a lofty octagon- tower, begun in 1600, for the purpose of containing an apparatus for raising water out of the Dee, to a cistern in the top, whence it was conveyed in pipes to al¬ most all parts of the city. Probably this contrivance did not answer, for in 1622, a new grant was made for erecting a wa¬ ter-work at I pittle Boughton; but this also fell to decay. In 1692, new works were engaged in by John Hopkins and John Hadley, opposite the abbey-court. About the year 785, Peter, bishop of Litchfield, removed his episcopal seat from that place to Chester, making use of the church of st. John for his cathedral. This translation, however, was of short duration, for his successor established him¬ self in the former diocese, and Chester was without a bishop till after the sup¬ pression of monasteries; it was then re¬ stored to it's ancient honour, by Henry 8, who made it one of the 6 new sees that were formed in 1541, at which time the dissolved Abbey of St. Werburgh was con¬ verted into the cathedral. The first new bishop, John Bird, recommended him¬ self to his royal master by preaching most vehemently against papal supremacy : this pliancy of humour caused his re¬ moval from Bangor to Chester, where he furthered the designs of the rapacious Henry, by granting the manors and de¬ mesnes to the king, and accepting im¬ propriations and rectories in exchange; thus the see was deprived of all it’s pos¬ sessions, and, with the exception of the single acre upon which the palace stands, the court beyond it, and another house ad 375 CHESTER. 37C jacent; a little orchard, called the Wood yard ; 2 houses near St. John’s chutch ; a lew small tenements in the city of York ; and some lands in Broughton and Childer Thornton, bequeathed in the year 1703; is completely divested of temporalities, and, tho’ the greatest in extent of any in England, is of the smallest value. The precise time at which the abbey of St. Werburgh was founded, is not known ; tho’ it is unquestionably of great antiqui¬ ty. It is supposed to have been a nunnery founded by Wulpherus, king of the Mer¬ cians, in the year 600: the duration of this community is uncertain, it was pro’b- bably ruined by the Danes in 895, when they seized and defended Chester against Alfred. In the reign of Athelstan, the noble Ethelfrida established, in the place of the nuns, a society of canons regular ; shealsorestored the buildings which were afterwards repaired by earl Leofric, and more liberally endowed by the kings Ed¬ mund and Edgar. On the accession of Hugh Lupus to the earldom of Chester, the canons were suppressed, and a colony of benedictines, from Bee in Normandy, were placed in their room : frequent and extensive grants were made to the abbey by Lupus and his successors, and it con¬ tinued to flourish till the general dissolu¬ tion ; when it was surrendered by Thom¬ as Clerk, the last abbot. It’s annual rev¬ enues were 1073/ 17s 7 d. Considerable remains of the Abbey buildings are still standing; the principal is the abbey gate; it consists of 2 pointed arches within a round one, of extensive span, and appar¬ ently of much earlier date. The part con¬ taining the Library, is incomplete repair, and exhibits a fine specimen of the point¬ ed or norman architecture. It once con¬ tained some thousands of volumes, but numbers of them were taken away, and those that remain arc in a most neglected state. The abbey court is a small square, with a grass plot and an obelisk in the centre: 2 sides of the square are orna¬ mented with rows of handsome houses, and on one is the Bishop’s palace, a hand¬ some stone building, erected by bishop Keene in the year 1753. The Deanery, which is in the same court, was built on the walls of a chapel dedicated to St. Thomas: the cloisters consist of only 3 walks on the n. side of the cathedral; in the wall of the s. walk, which has long since been demolished, were deposited the remains of the 1st, 2d, 3d, and 6th ab. bots. The Cathedral is a large and heavy pile of irregular workmanship ; it’s ap¬ pearance is rude and broken, on accouni of the mouldering stone of which it is composed ; the lower part of the wall has a row of arches, now filled up; this, with a vestige of the n. transept, appears to be I the most ancient part of the building, tho’ these are of no very high antiquity, the works of the saxons and of it’s refounder being entirely gone. The middle aile and the tower were finished by the abbot Si¬ mon Ripley, the initials of his name are to be seen interlaid in ciphers, on some of the capitals of the pillars. The body is supported by 6 pointed arches ; above is a gallery with a neat stone balustrade,and a row of large pointed windows. Except¬ ing the parts already noticed, most of the building seems to have been erected in the reigns of Henry 6, 7, and 8. The w. front, which is richly ornamented, was began 1508. The window above the door is filled with tracery, and the door¬ case is decorated with a variety of sculp¬ ture ; on the walls of the naive and ailesi are the springs of the arches, from which it appears that the architect intended to have vaulted the roofs, but from some un¬ known cause, the design was abandoned, The Choir is filled with stalls that have tabernacle-work above them, carved in a superior style ; the arches in the galleries are separated by slender pillars, probably the work of the I5th century. In the chancel are 4 stone stalls for the priests; and about the walls are inserted the mon¬ uments of several illustrious churchmen, The Bishop’s Throne stands on a stone base, and is a remarkable piece of sculp¬ ture : it’s form is an oblong square, each side most curiously ornamented with arches and pinnacles ; round the upper part is a range of small images intended to represent the saints and kings of the Mercians, each figure held a scroll on which the name was inscribed ; many of these scrolls and figures were mutilated by the fanatics during the great rebelli¬ on, but in 1748 the figures were restor¬ ed, tho’ in a most injudicious manner, some of the females having male heads placed on their shoulders, while the mas¬ culine figures were ill-matched with fe¬ male heads : the original number of star ■77 CHESTER. 378 es was 34, but 4 of them are lost. In the ear 17 * 9 , dr. William Cooper published pamphlet containing a description of hese figures, and the history of the per- ons they represented; the profits of /Inch he presented to the Blue-coat Hos- ital. Behind the choir is St. Mary’s chap- 1, and on each side an aile : in the n. aile , an altar-tomb ascribed to Henry 4, em- eror of Germany, who is said to have es- aped from his troubles, and to have resid¬ 'd in Godshall Lane in this city, where he ied, and was buried in the abbey. The ransepts are different, in form, and of nequal extent; that on the n. is very irge, dedicated to St. Oswald, and is in te parish of that name : this is reported ) stand on the site of the first church of t. Peter and Paul, which was afterwards hanged to that of the holy Trinity, and, nally, to the name it now bears. This Jansept was designedly enlarged, on re- uilding the church, and allotted by the jonks to the neighbouring inhabitants, /ho were mostly their servantsor tenants. It first the religious wished to have the /hole of it for themselves, and on thatac- 'ount built a chapel at a distance, called t. Nicholas’s, and endowed it with a vic- rage for the use of the laity ; but at the equest of the inhabitants, and by compo- ition between the mayor and abbot, they Vere restored to the use of the church of t. Oswald. The Chapel falling into dis- se, was purchased by the citizens, and onverted into a common hall for the dis¬ patch of public business, since which it iasbeen changed into a magazine for wool, nd part into a Theatre, under licence of Parliament. The Chapter-house is a most ieautiful edifice, and stands in the e. walk >f the cloister; the vestibule is arched, aid supported by four columns, each sur¬ rounded with 8 slender pilasters, without apitals, which converge near the top of lie column, and spread over the roof. The limensions of this room are 33f. 4in. by !7f. 4in., the height is l'2f.9in. The Chap- er-housc is 50 feet long, 26 feet broad, and 15 feet high; at the upper end is a window, (insisting of 5 lancet-shaped divisions, indoneach side is another of 3; a narrow ;allery runs along 3 parts of the room, di¬ vided from the windows by a triplet of ele¬ gant and lofty pillars. The roof is of stone; he springs of the arches which secure it re supported by neat pilasters, with palmy capitals. The entrance, both from the cloisters and between the vertibule and chapter-house, are what is mistakenly styl¬ ed gothic, but apparently of a later date than either of those rooms. This Chapter- house appears to have been erected in the time of Randle, earl of Chester, whose first care, after it was completed, was to remove the body of his uncle, the great Hugh Lu¬ pus, from the church-yard of the abbey where it had been interred, intothis build¬ ing. Here his remains continued unmo¬ lested till the year 1724, when, in digging within thechapter-house, they were found in a stone coffin, wrapped in leather, with a centre cross on the breast: at the head of the coffin was a stone, in shape of a T, with a wolf’s head engraven on it, in al¬ lusion to his name. The privilege of sanctuary appears never to have belonged to the abbey so fully as it was possessed by other religious houses, but was merely temporary during the feast in honour of st. Werburgh. Hugh Lupus ordered that no malefactor should be attached or punished at the time of the fair held upon this occa¬ sion, unless he committed some new of¬ fence. The great concourse of loose peo¬ ple that assembled through this indul¬ gence proved of singular advantage to the earl Randle, who, being surrounded in the castle of Rhudland by a welsh army, and in great danger, dispatched a messen¬ ger to Roger de Lacy, his constable, for assistance. This officer was at that time attending the fair, and being assisted by Ralph Dutton, his son-in-law, collected immediately a numerous body of the rab¬ ble, who had met together in consequence of the privilege : with this motley com¬ pany, he advanced in battle array, to the castle, and the welsh, who discovered him at a distance, supposing themselves too few to engage the multitude that follow¬ ed him, made a hasty retreat. Mr. Pen¬ nant, mr. Dallaway, and other topograph¬ ic writers have pronounced the erection of this chapter-house to have been as ear¬ ly as the year 1128, and have given to Randulph de Meschines, earl of Chester, nephew to Hugh Lupus, the credit of it’s foundation; but an ingenious writer in the Gent. Mag. for Dec. 1807, has given several probable conjectures that the pres¬ ent chapter-house was erected upon the site of an ancient Chapel, or other sacred edifice, originally founded by Randulph 379 CUES' de Mcschincs, at a period subsequent to what has been above stated, by nearly a century, to which it’s principal architec¬ tural features correspond. Besides the Cathedral and St. Oswald’s, Chester con¬ tains 8 Parish churches, the principal of which is St. John’s : it stands without the walls, on the e. side of the city, and is said to have been founded in the year 689, by king Ethelred, who was admonished in a vision, to erect it on a spot where he should find a white hind. This church was formerly a magnificent pile, in form of a cross: great part of the e. end was de¬ stroyed by the fall of the centre tower, in 1574; the n. and s. transepts are likewise demolished : on one side of the tower, at the w. end, the legend relative to tire foundation of this church is represented by the figures of a man and a hind. The Trinity Church has a remarkably light and beautiful spire. The Churches con¬ tain nothing extraordinary. The Bridge is an ancient structure, hav¬ ing 7 dissimilar arches : it is conjectured that no part of it is older than the conquest, as it appears from Doomsday-book, that the provost had orders to summon 1 man, from each hide of land in the county, to assist in rebuilding it. The city-mills stand at the n. end of the bridge, and are supplied with water by a current formed from a large dam ov causeway, raised ob¬ liquely across the river Dee ; producing a fall of nearly 13 feet, which causes the water to rush with considerable force un¬ der the bridge. These mills, with the causeway, were founded by the earl Lu¬ pus. They were afterwards held by the earls of Chester, of the royal line. Edward the black prince granted them to sir How- el-y-Fwyall in reward for his bravery at the battle of Poitiers, where he took the french king prisoner. The revenue of the mills was at that time very considera. ble, as the inhabitants of the city were re. stricted from grinding their corn at any other place. The present buildings are modern, the old mills having been des¬ troyed by fire. The city of Ches¬ ter is supplied with water chiefly from the water-works, which raise it from the river into a reservoir, whence it passes through pipes, into the houses. There are 2 excellent institutions here, suggest¬ ed and established by dr. Haygarth ; i. e- a Blue-coat Hospital for training 145 boys; rER. 3F0 and Sunday and working Schools ; both institutions are supported by voluntary j subscription. The other public buildings | in Chester, are the House of Industry, standing near the river, on the w. side of the town. The Infirmary is a large, hand¬ some, brick building, in a fine, airy situ¬ ation, near the town-wail, which it com¬ pletely overlooks. It was erected by sub¬ scription in the year 1761. The North - gate Jail. The Bridewell. The Gov¬ ernment of the city is vested in a corpora¬ tion, consisting of a mayor, recorder, i sheriffs, and 24 aldermen. The law courts of this city are the courts of Crown- mote and Portmote, and the sessions are held in the Exchange, which is a large , handsome pile of building, supported on columns. Here the elections of mayors are held, here they give their entertainments, and here the citizens have their dancing assemblies. The Town-Hall, or as it is more commonly called the Exchange, is a large handsome building; it stands in the middle of the city; the lower part is open on all sides, being supported by pil. lars of great bulk, and 13 feet high. 0- ver one of the front ends is a statue of Queen Anne, the crown and fringe of her petticoat are absurdly gilded. Some ?mall shops are erected over one part of it. The upper part has a threefold division ; an assembly-room, a court of justice, and a council-chamber for the corporation. These rooms contain some large portraits. No Manufacture of consequence is pursued besides gloves. There are an iron-foundery, snuff-mills, and ship-builder’s yards. A patent shot- manufactory is carried on in a circular tower of brick, 150 feet high, which is considered a very perfect building of the kind. It is connected with a large lead- manufactory in which the steam engine, the steel rollers, and every part of the ma¬ chinery is formed upon the most improv¬ ed principles. Vessels from 100 to 500 tons are built annually ; yet it’s maritime business is of no great extent. It consists chiefly of the coasting and Irish trades. The water is of depth sufficient to allow vessels of 350 tons burden to come up to the quay at spring tides. A channel opens from the sea near Northop, about 10m. a- bove Chester. Near the Exchange is, the Engine..House, a neat fabric, with flut¬ ed columns, and a rich Corinthian cornice. i81 CHESTER. 382 The fire-engines are kept in order at the expense of the corporation. The city returns 2 members to parliament. It’s population in 1801, amounted to 15,052 nhabitants, contained in 3194 houses. A Ine meadow called Rood eye, or Roadee, s used as a common, and for the race ;round. On the road to Hawarden, the most ileasant route for a pedestrian, is to e- nerge through Crane-street, at the end of vhich, leaving the race-ground on the 1., ■ursue the road along the embankment of he Dee, to the Sluice-house, 2m., and ■assing over the river at the lower ferry, ike a foot path across the meadows ; larwarden-castle appears the rest of the vay, conspicuously placed upon the side pf richly wooded rising ground. Mr. lilpin left the ruins of Harwardcn-castle n the r., bosomed in wood, and soon after te whole flat country behind, ascending le higher grounds which gradually rise > the mountains. These dreary wastes, itally unadorned with any of the beau- ful appendages of landscape, led him to me town of Mold. The great road es across the Dee, over Saltney Marsh, > Bret ton, 3Jm. lm. beyond, on the 1. iroughton-hall, Jos. Richardson esq., fm. on the 1. to the village of Broughton,') jihence on the r. to Mold, 7)m. FIar- il ARDEN, 3 milCS. On his way to Holt, mr. Pennant re- assed 'Hantridge, and at the may-pole rok the left-hand road, which is a con- nuation of the roman way from the riv- r. It passes through Eaton-park and irosses the Dee at Oldford. The village f Eccleston is prettily seated near the Ice. There is a most extensive prospect irom a bench upon Eccleston hill. A V little farther is Eaton, or the hamlet >n the water. The seat of the ancient itmily of the Grosvenors lies in this town- hip. Cross the Dee at Eaton boat, leav- lg on the right Oldford-bridge, a neat ructure. After passing a flat country, each Farn or Farndon, a small town up- n the Dec. The Church was burnt by ic parliament army in 1645, during the :ige of Holt-castle ; and rebuilt after the essation of the war. In one window is >me very beautifully painted glass. The road from Chester to Liverpool asses by Upton through Backford, Great iid Little Sutton, Childcr Thornton, East- ham, Bromborough, Bebington, and Fran- more, to the wood-side, or Blakenhead- ferry, opposite to Liverpool, with inter¬ mediate roads to the several ferries of Eastham, or Carlett, Royal-Rock, Fran- more, and New-ferry. The road to Parkcate passes through Little Mollington, the township of Shot- wick, and the town of Great Ncston ; this road is continued across the bundled of Wirral, through Thornton Mayo ox Thorn¬ ton Hough, to Great Bebington, where it joins the road from Chester to Liverpool. By this route the Irish and Chester mails are conveyed, from Tranmore-ferry across the Mersey to Liverpool. The manor of Shotwick belonged to the abbot and con¬ vent of St. Werburgh at Chester; under whom it was held by the Shotwick’s. Alice, heiress of this family, brought it to Hockenhulls, who sold it in 1750 to Samuel Bennet, esq, who devised the reversion to his great nephew John Nev- ett, who took the name of Bennet, and now enjoys it. The Church of Shotwick was given to the dean and chapter of Chester. Adjoining to the township of Shotwick, once was Shotwick-park, now converted into farms. Within this dis¬ trict, upon the banks of the river is the site of Shotwick castle, which belonged to the crown. A part of Shotwick-Hall, and Shotwick Lodge, are occupied by farmers. The late Owen Salusbury Brereton, esq., r. r. & a. s., who died in 1798, bequeath¬ ed it to his cousin, (by his mother’s side), Charles Trelawney, esq., who has taken the name Brereton, and is the present proprietor. Neston is a small market- town, almost 11 miles n-w. from Ches¬ ter. The market, chiefly for butchers, is held on Friday, the fairs are Feb. 2, May 1, and Sep. 29. The manor of Great Neston is at present the property of sir Thomas Mostyn, bart. In the church¬ yard is the tomb of John Hancock, a farm¬ er, who died Dec. 4, 1775, aged 112. At the age of 104 he was in the habit of walking £m. to a public-house. Park-gate is situated upon the estuary of the Dee, whence the packets sail for Ireland ; it contains upwards of 130 hous¬ es, and is frequented in the summer as a a bathing-place. The Thalictrum minus and Geranium sanguineum grow upon the banks of the Dee below this place. To Mold, cross the Dee and pass Over- 383 CHESTER. CHIRK. 38 ley-hall, acros Saltney-common, to Bretton 3 |m. (lm. further is a road to Holywell by way of Hawarden and Northop, on the r. 14m.) Broughton, 2m. On the 1. is Broughlon-hall, J. Richardson, esq. Pass Dobs-hill and IVarren mountain on the 1. to Dirly-mile lane end, 2m. 7f. Buckleymoun- tain, on the r. lm. further cross IVatts’s Dyke, in the line from Northop to Hope. Penlre, 3m. Cross the Alun river, (the course of which is to the Dee) to Mold Jm. To Wrexham, cross the Dee, and leave Overley-hall on the r. to the 2 mile House, leaving on thei.Belgrove-heath, and Eaton- hall, to Pulford, 5m. Rhossydd Green, lm. cross the Alun river. Marford-hill, 1 m. Glanyp-uill, 2m. Wrexham. This road is remarkably good. From Marford-hill is a very extensive view of the vale royal of Che»hire, with the city castle of Bees- ton, and the welsh mountains. At this castle grows Saxifraga aizoides. To Harwarden, by way of Bretton, 7§ miles, Bingley; Warner; Gilpin. — Gresford, 8 miles, Wyndham. — Mold, ll| miles, Skrine. — Holt, 10 miles. Pennant. — Wrexham, ll^ miles. — Parkgate, 12 miles. — Frodsham, 10 miles. — Liverpool, across the Ferry, 17 miles. From Oswestry, 5§ miles, Bingley; Skrine; Pennant. - Llangollen, 7 miles, Evans; Gilpin. - Ruabon, 6 miles, Wyndham. CH-IRK is a large village situated up¬ on the brow of a limestone-bill, among coal and lime-works, upon the s-e sel¬ vage of Denbighshire. In the Church¬ yard are seven aged yews. In the church are several marble monuments belonging to the Middletons of Chirk castle ; none of them well executed, the best is a bust of sir Thomas Middleton, a disting¬ uished parliamentarian partisan, during the civil wars, and his lady of the Napier family of Lutton. Chuk Castle is distant I 5 m. from the village in the line ef OJfa’s dyke, upon the summit of a lofty hill. The extent of this ditch was from the Severn below Chepstow, to themouth of the Dee which parts the counties of Flint and Cheshire. By a law of Egbert, King of the saxons anno 835, the penal¬ ty of death was attached to every welsh, man who should pass this rampart; and by another law of Harold Harefoot, if , Welshman should come into England without leave, and be taken on that side of Offa’s dyke, his right hand was to be cut off by the king’s officer. The welsh on the other hand, claimed all as lawful prizes which they took from the english, and it is said, frequently passed the line in the night to drive the cattle over the boundary. The present structure was built upon the site of an ancient fort¬ ress called Castell Crogen. It however is not of recent date, having been erected in the time of Edward 1, by Roger Mor- | timer, to whom the King had granted the united lordship of Chirk and Nanheudwy, It became the property of lord St. Joh?io\ Bletso, whose son sold it in 1595 to sir Thomas Middleton, knt. afterwards mayoi of London. Like that of Powis near Welshpool the style of the building par¬ takes both of the castle and mansion, the form is quadrangular, having the angles strengthened with four prodigiously clum¬ sy bastion like-towers, each surmounted by a small turret. The gateway in front was once preceded by a pair of iron gates 1 of exquisite beauty. These are now placed at the entrance into the park from Llangollen. It is now entered through a 5th massy tower, which gives admission to a court 160 feet long by 100 broad. Round this are ranged the different apart¬ ments, and the e. side is ornamented by a handsome colonaded piazza. The prin¬ cipal of these are a saloon, drawing-room, Sec. A picture gallery 100 feet long and 22 wide contains a large collection of paintings, principally portraits, many of 1 which are well executed, by celebrated masters. Among the rest is a picture of Pistyl Rhaiadyr, represented as falling into the sea. It appears that the artist employed to take this view was a foreign¬ er, to whom it was hinted, when he had nearly finished his piece, that the addition of a few sheep would add to the effect. The artist replied, “ You want some: sheeps in it? O! O! ver veil! I vill put you some sheeps in it.” He then in¬ troduced the sea, and ridiculously enough several sheeps (ships). There are port¬ raits of the military character sir Thomas Middleton, the great duke of Ormond, sir Orlando Bridgeman, the ill-famed coun¬ tess of Warwick, afterwards wife of Jos¬ eph Addison, &c. &c. The Park is very extensive, reaching to the foot of :85 CHIRK. 383 ie Berwyn mountains; and covered in of it’s towers, were thrown down, but- laces with lofty forest trees. The again rebuilt in one year, at the enormous leasurc-grounds are well laid out, and expense of 80,000 1. For a building of le different plantations disposed with great extent and antiquity this castle may reat taste. But the view from the ele- be pronounced rather mean than magnifi- ation near the house is incomparable, cent. The finest specimen of art which eventeen counties, as a natural map, the demesne contains is the singularly iread their varied beauties before the beautiful iron gates before mentioned, ye of the spectator. Towards England, The Ellesmere Canalm it’s linenear Chirk, fe plain and town of Shrewsbury, it’s passes across a deep narrow valley, where iwers and spires, the Clee-hills, extend- the number of double locks, and circuit- igtowardstheMalvernhillsinWorcester- ous route would have proved tedious and 'lire ; the solitary Wrekin; the high land expensive, the engineer therefore had re¬ bunding the Vale Royal of Chester: course to an aqueduct consistingof 10 arch- iwards Wales, Llangollen Vale, Castel es resting upon pyramidal piers of stone, 'inas Bran, the boisterous Dee; the range Thus is the canal carried over the river if mountains dividing the counties of and vale of Ceiriog, an extent of 200 ferioneth and Montgomery, the Clwyd- yards, and about the middle 65 feet in ian hills, and the Snowdon chain. height. Buttheprojectorhadnotproceed- uring the desperate struggles of Cambria cd in an horizontal direction far, before i recover her independence, the vicinity he had to encounter, from similar causes, f Chirk in the year 1164 was the theatre tenfold more formidable difficulties, a f a most sanguinary battle between the still deeper ravine was presented, through nglish and Welsh. iThe successes of which the Dee passes with considerable ilays, prince of S. \^jhes, against the force. Mr. Thomas Telford, the engi- ilemings and Normans, encouraged the neer, like the celebrated Brindley, erased ther princes in the n. to make another from his nomenclature the term impossi- iold attempt to shake off the galling yoke bility, and recourse was had to another |f tyranny. David son of Owen, prince aqueduct upon a more enlarged scale. jfN. Wales, therefore fell upon Flintshire, See Punt y Cyssylle, under the title Llan- yhich belonged to the King of England, collen. Upon the river Ceiiug ia larrying off all the people and cattle with this neighbourhood are several puper- im, brought them to Dyffrin Clwyd, mills, coals are abundant, and there are ing Henry hearing this collected his quarries of excellent stone, prees and marching with all speed came About 2 miles from Chirk, on the road p Rhyddlan, but returned to England to to Ruabow, is a pleasing view down a lUgment his forces. He then levied a woody vale, in the bottom of which run* rcat force and advanced to Oswestry, the river Dee; but a little farther at A'eio he welsh pitched their camp at Corwen, Bridge, this is exceeded by another view 'Ut were driven to the Berwyn mount- move interesting. “Out of the road,” ins. In the end, Henry was forced to de- says mr. Binglcy, (who visited this neigh- amp, and returned to England. Hehow bourhoodin September 1798) “about 101) :ver wrecked his vengeance on the unfor- yards above the bridge, such a scene was .unate hostages which the welsh had presented to me, that had I possessed the ent to him some time before, by tearing pencil of a Claude, 1 could have painted nit their eyes. These were Rhys and one ot the most exquisite landscapes the -adwalhon, sons of Owen ; and Cynric eye ever beheld. The river here darted ..nd Meredith sons of Rhys. According along it’s rugged bed, and it’s rocky banks o a paper communicated by John Middle- clad with w ood, where every varied tint on to the Antiquarian Society, the castle that autumn could afford added to their vas begun in 1011, and finished in 1013 ; effect, cast a darkening shade upon the he repairs of one of the wings in Crom- stream. With the green oak, all the dif- vell s time cost nearly 28,000/. The ferent hues of the ash, the elm, and the ha- ront is 250 feet long. However, when zel, were intermingled. Abovethe bridge Iir Thomas Middleton, in the civil wars, arose a few cottages surrounded with jevolted from the parliament, this castle foliage. The evening was calm, and the ivas besieged, and one side, with three smoke, tinged bv the setting sun descend- U 387 CHIRK. ed upon the vale, while the distant moun¬ tains were brightened by his beams into a fine purple. I contemplated these beau¬ ties till the declining sun had sunk be¬ neath the horizon, and twilight had be¬ gun to steal over the landscape, blending into one, every different shade of reflec¬ tion.” On the way to Llancollen, mr. Pen¬ nant ascended the front of Ccfn Ucha. The distant view from this lofty hill is boundless. One side impends over a most beautiful valley, watered by the Dee, diversified with groves and bound¬ ed towards the end by barren and naked Tocks, tier above tier. Fumaria claviculata, is abundant in hedges by the road side near Llangollen. “ Leaving the noble mansion of Chirk, the seat of genu¬ ine hospitality and real elegance,” says mr. Evans, “ we crossed the river Ccriog, a tributary to the Dee, and at present the boundary between England and this part of Wales; and turned our backs upon a country which had furnished us with new scenes at every step ; where Nature has been lavish with whatever tends to please and elevate the mind ; where Flo¬ ra sports in sweet variety, and spreads her matchless charms over alpine heights, as well as lowly vales, in rich profusion. A country which was eminently distin¬ guished as the birth-place and residence of the children of freedom ; who, from their independent spirit and martialprow- ess, for centuries chastised rapacity and injustice, and made oppression and tyran¬ ny tremble upon the throne. A country where a plain, honest, hospitable people, uncorrupted by wealth, and not enervat¬ ed by luxury, still keep the noiseless ten- our of their way ; were calm content and bliss delight to dwell.”—Tour page 346. The Berwyn range of mountains rises rear Chirk Castle; and takes a parallel course with the Snowdon range, towards the s.w ; proceeds to the lofty summits of Cadair Ferwyn, Trum y Sarn, Aran Fowddwy, and Cadair Idris ; it then makes a rapid descent of 2350 feet, with¬ in the space of 1-2 miles, and plunges into Cardigan bay at Sarn y Bwch. To Oswestey, cross the river Ceiriog, and Ellesmere canal to Pres Grtiene, lm. (On the 1. is Morton-hall,) Pentre Ken~ rick, on the r. lm. Gob Owen, lm. to CLUN. 388 Oswestry> 2|m. John Wynne Griffiths esq. has noticed that the Mentha viridis, grows by the side of rills in the vale of Ceriog. To Ruabon, 4 j miles, Bingley; Skrine; Gilpin. Mr. Evans terminates his Detail of a Tour in North Wales, with this place. To Oswestry, 7 miles, Warner. — Llangollen, 7 miles, Wyndham; Pennant. From Eishop’s Castle, 5 miles, Wyndham. -Montgomery, 12 miles, Warner. - Knighton, 6 miles. CLUN, in Shropshire, is a village in¬ heriting little worth notice, except it’s ruined Castle, originally built by Fitzal- an (descended from the Norman of that name, who founded the Arundel family.) Clun Castle was the strong fortress whence the lords marchers rushed into the adjoin¬ ing territories of the welsh princes, pil¬ laged and laid waste the unsuspecting country, and to which they afterwards re¬ treated with their prisoners and spoil. In 1801 the population of Clun amounted to 1390 and the number of houses was 266. In advancing towards Wigmore, mr. Warner had pointed out to him a road, i which was said to be so plain and direct as not to be mistaken ; yet he had not proceeded more than three miles before he was utterly at a loss to know how to proceed, from the intricacies of a hilly country, covered with cross-roads and paths intersecting each other. Fortunate¬ ly, a solitary horseman going to Presteign, relieved him at this juncture, but he after¬ wards fell into similar difficulties and might longhave wandered about the open downs of the hills or floundered thro’ the dirty lanes of the vales, had he not met with an honest hind, who consented to be his conductor. Under this convoy he reached the ancient village of Brampton Brian. The singular little church at this place is attached to the keep of a ruined castle. This fragment is the only remain of a fortress built in the early norman times, by Bryan de Brampton, the head of an ancient and powerful family of that name, from whom the village received it’s appellation. The fief of Brampton continued to be held in an uninterrupted succession till the reign of Edward 2, by the lords of this family, when it passed •390 89 CLUN. CLYNOG. COITY. ent lord Oxford, who has a mansion in le village. [see Ludlow.] To Wigmore, 12 miles, Warner. — Oswestry, miles. — Knighton, 7 miles, Wyndliam. — Ellesmere, 8 miles. From Dinas Dindle, 6 miles, Hutton. CLYNOG is a beautiful village, in acrnarvonshire, guarded by mountains i three sides, and the sea on the fourth ; nt turnpike road, midway to Pvvlheli om Caernarvon. It was once celebrat- 1 as the residence of St. Beuno, who was ito that of Harleys, ancestors of the pre- yards from the church, adjoining the turn¬ pike road, is st. Beuno’s well, 8 feet square, enclosed by a wall 8 feet high. The place is now exposed to ruin and the vil¬ est filth. The spring has been suffered to grow up, so that it now contains little water. After st. Beuno’s death this well was much famed for healing the sick, and particularly for curing the rickets in chil¬ dren. The process of cure was dipping the patient in the well at evening, and letting him remain all night upon the , , , saint’s tomb. A smattering of this devo- laded by trees, and situated on an excel- ... . 1 ’ .. „ tional respect continued till about theyear 1793, when lord Nevvboroug'n ordered the tomb to be opened. The workmen penetrated about the depth of a yard, but irn of noble parents in Flintshire, but finding n0 laint> they desisted. The frag- suminga monastic habit retired to this menU of the tomb lie a confused heap ace, where in 616 he built a church and up(m the floor . About distanc onastery. Of the Abbey, some of the is an uncommon large Cromlech, in a field undations only remain. The conven- near the sea> bdonging a tene ment call- [al church is the most magnificent cede- ed Bachwen- The inclinatian of Uie table stone dips towards the w. and con¬ tains upon it’s surface several hollow- holes, and 30 yards distant stands a single stone pillar. After passing Olynog to¬ wards Llanhaiarn the country becomes barren, desolate, and uninteresting. Clynog contains two inns, where civility and comfort may be purchased at reason¬ able prices. To Llanllyfni, 8 miles, Ilutton. astical structure in N. Wales, built in ic cruciform shape, and pointed style, consists of a chancel, nave, ailes, and |ansept, with a handsome square tower, fear the altar are three stalls with pointed ches, supported by slender columns, in altar tomb supports 2 recumbent fig- res, in memory of William Glynne de leiar, his wife, and children. Another immemorates his son in law, and sue. jbsor to the demesne of Ueiar, George \wideion, esq, who defeated and took risoner in the civil wars, that zealous pyalist, sir John Owen. In the s-e cor- sr of the church stands an old oaken lest, belted with iron, and fixed down i the floor, called cyff Beuno, or Beuno’s nest. An elongated aperture in the lid for the purpose of receiving offerings, hese alms and oblations have ceased, nd there is no fund to preserve this ven- -able pile from falling into ruins. Ad- fining the church is a small building riled Eglwys Beuno, supposed to have een part of the original church; but the ‘.hiding, in the pointed style, is evidently 'r a subsequent date. The passage lead- ig from the grand structure to this is a arrow vault covered with large flat ones, probably the only remaining part f the original building. St. Beuno was juried in his own chapel, and an altar- >mb lately removed, is said to have been is place of interment. One hundred From Bridgend, 2 miles, Barber. COITY is a village of Glamorganshire, remarkable only for a dismantled castle, pleasingly interspersed with trees and underwood. It’s foundation is generally attributed to Paganus de Turbeville, one of Fitzhammon’s knights. On the road to Llantrissant, near the seven miles stone, at a curve in the road, the wide undulating valeofOrwbridge exhibits an extensive tract of beautiful fertility. On one of the high hills circum¬ scribing the vale, that which sustains Penline Castle appears pre-eminent. Rich pastures and meadows, intersected by tufted inclosures, embowered hamlets, and detached specks of whitened build¬ ings form a glance of considerable interest. To Llantrissant, 8 miles, Barber, r-' rr 391 CONWY. 392 From Llandulas, 9 miles, Bingley. - Penraaen-mawr,6 miles,Pennant; Atkin; Evans; Warner. - Llanrwst, 12 miles, Skrine $ Hutton. -Rhyddlan to Conwy-ferry, by way of Ab- ergelley, 16 miles, Skrine. - Bangor, 11^ miles, Hutton; Gilpin. - Abergeley, 11 miles, Warner’s 2d walk. - Beaumaris to Bangor-ferry, thence over Penmaen mawr, 14 miles, Wyndham. --Llandidno, 5 miles, Gilpin. Back from Llandidno, Evans. CONWY, from Cynwy (the great riv¬ er) situated upon the northern corner of Caernarvonshire, is a fine old fortified town. It's shape is nearly triangular. Some have thought that it has been the Conovium of the Romans, but it was with more certainty at a place still called Caer Rhun, some miles distant. The river Conwy runs upon the e. side of the town. The annals of this place commence no earlier than with the history of it’s Castle, which was erected in 1284, by command of Edward I, as a security against the in¬ surrections of the Welsh. Soon after it’s erection the royal founder was beseiged in it, and the garrison almost reduced by famine to a surrender, when they were extricated by the arrival of a fleet with provision. At the commencement of the civil wars, it was garrisoned in behalf of the king, by Dr. John Williams, archbish¬ op of York. In 1645, he gave the gov¬ ernment of the castle to his nephew It m. Hookes. Two years after, prince Rupert superseded the archbishop in the com¬ mand of N. Wales. He endeavoured to gain some redress from the king, but he failed. Enraged at this injury, he joined Mytton, and assisted in the reduction of Conwy. The town was taken by storm Au ,r . 15, 1646, hut the castle did not sur¬ render till the 10th of November. The superiority of this fortress seemed to in¬ spire respect, for while the parliamenta¬ rian forces dismantled other castles, they laid no violent hands on this, but when a grant was made of it by king Charles to the earl of Conwy and Kilulta, he had scarcely obtained possession, ere he order¬ ed an agent toremove the timber, iron, lead and other valuable materials. It is held on lease by Owen Holland, esq., from the crown, at an annual rent of 6s Sit. and a dish of fish to lord Holland as often as he passes through the town. Thus unroofed and unprotected, it has suffered such materi¬ al injuries from the agency of wind and weather, as to be reduced to a state of rapid decay. The heap of rubbish re¬ maining in the river opposite the castle once constituted a round tower, terminat. ing a curtain rampart, which extended from the angle of the town-wall. One similar, running out from the other end, j has long been destroyed. The uses of these were to prevent an enemy from ap¬ proaching by water. A tower upon the s. side has been rent asunder by some of the inhabitants quarrying the foundation for slates. Part is standing and part hang¬ ing in an oblique direction upon the sur- basing rock, forming a singular instance of a dilacerated building. It is supposed that this castle was constructed by the same architect who built Caernarvon cas-, tie. A more beautiful fortress perhaps never arose ; certainly it’s equal is not to be found within the precincts of Britain., The form is nearly a parallelogram, orra- ther oblong, extending along the verge of a precipitous rock, washed on 2 sides by a fork of the river; the others front the town, the walls are of great thickness, flanked by 8 vast, circular embattled tow¬ ers, each having a slender machiolaled one issuing from the top. These were: ascended by spiral stair-cases, and served the purpose of watch turrets. This fort¬ ress had 2 principal ways of ingress, both admirably contrived for security. One was formed by a narrow flight of steps from the river, through a small advanced postern. The grand entrance was at the n-w. end, by a draw-bridge, over a deep and wide foss. The common entrance is at the s-e. side, near the e. end, by a steep and winding path. The interior consists of 2 courts bounded by the different apart¬ ments. Few of these are distinguishable, except the state-hall; the length of which is 30 leet, the breadth about the same, and the height 20. It’s roof was sup¬ ported by 8 arches, 4 of which only re¬ main. It had 2 spacious fire-places, was lighted by six narrow windows towards the river, and three larger next the court. Underneath were extensive vaults tc contain arms, ammunition, magazines and stores. Two towers opposite the principal gateway, one called the king’s the other the queen’s, contain 2or 3 rooms each, and in the latter an opening or nicht taken out of the wall, had a groined roof formed by ribs into 6 compartments. I' 93 CONWY. 391 lese were seats and light was admitted irough 3 lancet-shaped windows. It /as called the Oriel or queen’s toilet- )om. The town was surrounded by igh massy walls, 12 feet thick, strength- ned at intervals by 24 circular and semi- rcular towers. These, with the 4 prin- pal gateways, remain in tolerable pres- -vation. It has been often said of Con- fy “ that a more ragged town is hard- to be seen.” Most of the space with- the walls are occupied by gardens, •chards, &c. There are scarcely ly remains of the Cistercian Abbey, hinded by Llewelyn ajt Jorwerth, in 1185, ho endowed it with lands to a consider- >le extent. The politic Edward, how¬ ler, would not trust this spiritual insti- tion within the walls. He removed ie religious to another establishment of .s own at Mnynan on the Denbighshire de of the river, and made the conventu- church parochial. The Church is mean looking building, containing a few lodern monuments belonging to the mily of the Wynnes, formerly of this lace. Upon a flat stone in the nave : the church, is the following inscrip- on. “ Here lyeth the body of Nicholas ‘ r ookes, of Conwy, gent., who was the 1st child of his father William Hookes, ;q., by Alice, his wife, and father of 27 lildren; who died on the 20th day of larch, 1637. The Font appears ancient; is composed of black marble curiously irved, and supported on a kind of clus- red pilasters, standing upon a pedestal ' Castle-street is a very old house, hav- ig a singular window, with several coats f arms of the Stanley family, called the allege-, inhabited at present by a few oor famii.es. It has probably been a hool endowed out of the abbey lands, iear the market place is a very large an¬ ti 116 building called Plus mawr . erected i 1585, by Robert IVynne, esq., of Gwydir. ver the gateway are inscribed the greek ords Aus^a a-nt^u, (bear, forbear.) “ The itters J. H. S. X. P. S. in front of the uilding, lead me,” says mr. Evans, “to bnjecture that it was a house erected for laritable purposes. The initials may e read, Jesus hominum salvator Christi- ii populi salus.” The apartments are Irnamented in a rude style, with uncouth jjurcs in stucco, interspersed with nu- crous coats of arms. This house is now the property of sir T. Mostyn, and occu¬ pied by several families. The common entrance is at the s-e. side, near the e. end, by a steep and winding path. By a charter of Edward 1, Conwy was made a free borough, and the mayor was also constable of the castle. This little town is governed by an alderman, recorder, coroner, water bailiff, and 2 serjeants at mace, elected annually. The population is 889, houses 182. The Port is a dry harbour, frequented by a few small coast¬ ing vessels, but the trade is very inconsid¬ erable. An extensive Quay ranges upon the e. side of the town wall. The river Conwy rises out of Lhjn Conwy at the s. extremity of the county, in the moun¬ tains of I J enmachno. At the castle it is a. bout ^m. across ; and in the middle of the channel opposite, is a small island cov¬ ered with underwood. A little higher up the river makes a fine bend round a pro¬ jecting point, shaded by a venerable wood. Mr. Aikin says that the castle is seen to the greatest advantage from this point. The Ferry is of impor¬ tance as lying upon one of the great roads from London to Ireland, but is justly con¬ sidered as a hazardous passage, and many are the accidents which have occurred. The spring tides rise about 12 feet; at these times the river is |m. across, at low water not above 50 yards. Owing to sand banks the fluctuations are considera¬ ble. On Christmas day, 1806, the boat con veying the irish mail-coach with 14 per. sons, including the coachman and guard, were drowned except 2. This accident did not happen, it is said, from the rough¬ ness of the water, or the rapidity of the current, but from the boat being overload¬ ed, so as not to rise with the waves, which were running uncommonly high. Many shameful impositions ate practised here upon such passengers as appear strangers. The regular charges are Id. for a foot passenger, 2d. for a man and horse, and 2s 6d.each wheel for carriages. Instead of which they will demand I Os 6 cl. for a gig, and importune even for more, for drink, as they say. They are indeed greatly their own masters. The ferry is however regulated by mr. Hughes o( Marl, a place Jin, distant from the ferry-house. Mr. Bingley being assailed by the boat¬ men, applied to that gentleman, who in¬ formed him that the fares were as before- 393 CONWY. 39i mentioned; that the men are paid 7s. each, a week, and are allowed to take what in addition travellers choose to give. A bridge at this place is most desirable. Standing opposite to the castle at the Fer¬ ry-house, a noble bay is formed where the tide enters the river. In this view indeed there are all the ingredients of a sublime and beautiful landscape; water, rising ground, woody banks, and allot grand di¬ mensions. “ And yet,” says mr. Gilpin, “ the picture is but an indifferent one. The case is, the composition is incorrect. The castle is formal, displaying a number of regular towers and turrets; the bank beyond it, tho’ woody, is heavy and lump¬ ish ; the lines have no variety, and there as a nakedness about the whole, which as displeasing. As we approach the cas¬ tle in the ferry-boat, the point of view Frequently varies, and often for the better, but in every point barrenness and uni¬ formity prevail. The picturesque advan¬ tages which a castle or any eminent building receives from a state of ruin, are chiefly these. It gains irregularity in it’s general form. We judge of beauty in castles, as we do in figures, in mountains, and other objects. The solid, square, heavy form we dislike, and are pleased •with the pyramidal one, which may be infinitely varied. Secondly, a pile gains from a state of ruin an irregularity in it’s parts. The cornice, the window, the arch, and battlement, which in their orig¬ inal form are all regular, receive from ruin a variety of little irregularities, which please. Lastly, a pile, in a state of ruin receives the richest decorations from the various colours which it acquires from time. It receives the stains of weather ; the incrustations of moss ; and the vari¬ ous tints of flowers. The gothic window is hung with festoons of ivy ; the arch with pendant wreaths streaming from each broken coignc; and the summit of the wall is planted with little twining bushes which fill up the square corners, and contribute still more to break the lines. In those sources of beauty the castle of Con- wyis deficient.”—“Observations,” 123. This river, during the roman period, was famed as a pearl fishery, but is now held in little estimation, altho’ the species of muscle, called by Linnaeus, Myamargara- tifera, which produced them is still found in the sandy bed of the river. Mr. Holland has judiciously planted and laii out in walks, a little hill near the moutl of the Conwy, which he has called Area '• dia. This spot commands an extensive and delightful prospect up and down th< river, the ocean, Anglesea, &c.,whenc< also may be had an excellent view of tin town and castle. The poor in thi: neighbourhood are numerous and wretch ed. Their principal employment is gath¬ ering the different species of fuci, com- monly called sea wreck, thrown up by the tide, or growing upon the breakers Tlris wreck they place in a kind of square fire-place, made upon the sand, and hea it till it becomes liquid and forms a cake when further baked or burnt, it rcsem bles cinders, and is called barrilla, or im pure fossil alkali; in this state it is soli to manufacturers of soap and glass. It i a curious fact, that the ashes of all plant; growing at a distance from salt water af ford the vegetable alkali or pot-ash while such as grow near the sea, or upor the borders of salt lakes, afford the fossil alkali or soda. Conwy being a great thoroughfare tc and from Ireland, the place supports 3 oi 4 good inns; a9 the Harp-inn, Bull’s head, &c., but the newroad through theOgvvyn mountains makes a saving of 10 miles from Llanrwst to Bangor, which some¬ what affects these advantages. From Conwy, mr. Bingley made an Excursion round the Creiddin, a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon the side of the river opposite to Con¬ wy, and forming a considerable promon¬ tory into the irish sea. After crossing the river, and proceeding along the shore for lim., the first object of attraction is Di- ganwy, or Gannoc, or Dinas klonwy, the lort on the Conwy, called by the common people Y Fardre. It was once a famous city, but being destroyed by lightning in 8 Hi, was never afterwards rebuilt. A tradition yet remains that Conwy rose out of it’s ruins. Camden has supposed this the Dictum of the Itinerary, called so from having been a station for part of the Ner- vii Dtctenses in the roman army. Many battles are said to have been fought here between the britons and saxons; and a- bout the year 1720 a number of brass belts were found under a great stone. At pres¬ ent, the only remains of this ancient place are upon 2 hills near the shore of the Con- 97 CONWY. 398 y; the space between was crossed by ed, especially about Marl, Bodscallan, le walls running up the sides. On the and Cloddaelh. In Marlwood are some jmmitof one are the vestiges of a cir- scotch pine, about 60 feet long, and 6£ alar tower, and some foundations of feet in circumference. Near and among ^alls are scattered on it’s accessible parts, the ruins of Diganwy castle, grow Ane- a 1088, Robert Radland was here over- thum fceniculum, and Silene nutans ; a- owered by the Welsh, and slain ; soon mong the rubbish, Borago officinalis, ter Llewelyn ap GrufTydd destroyed the Mr. Bingley made another Excursion istle, but it was again rebuilt in 1210 by to Caer Hun, (the fort ot Rliun) which lies andolph carl ol Chester. King John lay at the distance of 5 miles on the Llanrwst ncamped under it’s walls in 1211, but road. It is so called by the Welsh, but -as afterwards reduced to great distress by Camden Cacr hen, the Conovium of y prince Llewelyn ; Henry 3 shared the the romans. This ancient town was sh¬ ame hard fortune. The castle was final- uated upon a flat part of the margin of the j destroyed by Llewelyn ap GrufTydd. river. The bricks, urns, pottery-ware, Tear this place, on a low hill, are the re- lamps, vases, and other roman antiquities lains of an ancient round tower, about which have been found, has induced ■|0 feet high, and only 12 inches diameter (.lie historic investigator to fix here the yithin. One m. below, upon the n. station of the itinerary, 19m. distant from ide of the river, is Treganwy, or Diganwy, y aris, a nd 24 from Scgontium. Pottery- house belonging to mrs. Williams, an- ware of the most curious kinds were dis- iently a strong hold commanding one of covered. Also a circular brazen shield, he passes among the welsh mountains, about a foot in diameter, having upon it’s dr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and un- concentric embossed rings, with nu- ler the sw. side of Llandudno rock passed me rous studs and pins, and, in the centre, he shell of a large mansion, which some a piece of wrought iron 5 inches long, enturies ago was a palace belonging to qq ie j n side stuffed with hair, and covered he Bishops of Bangor; thence along steep with leather. The rev. H. D. Griffiths, ind slippery sides of the elevated down of U p nn whose grounds these remains were Llandudno, for about 2m., to the end of situated, made strict enquiries respecting he promontory. Here the rocks were, a f, a t|, an( j hypocaust, said to have been ior the most part, perpendicular, ofamaz- discovered here, without success. In a ng height. About a mile from the platform, situated upon a small mount, n-e. side of the promontory is Lcandud- which formed a parallelogram 150 yards mo Church, and a copper-mine at Eglwys i n length, and 100 in breadth, the founda- Hhos, the chapel in Klios, celebrated as tions of numerous apartments were dis- he refuge of Muelgwyn Gwynedd, who covered, supposed to have been an exten- superstitiously fled hither to avoid the s i ve roman pottery. The ruins of the old yellow fever, which raged over great part wall being further examined, the vestiges of Europe, where he died. of a roman villa were discovered. Caer Not far distant is Gloddacth, the well Jiliun is at present a pleasing little village, known scat of sir Thomas Mostyn, bart., surrounded with wood, and open to the built by his ancestor sir Roger Mostyn, in water. The vale of Conwy teems tilt reign of queen Elizabeth. The walks with interesting objects. Upon the west of Gloddcath may justly vie with any side, the abrupt termination of the Snow- tiling similar in the 3 kingdoms: those don chain down the declivities of which, on the declivity arc directed by the flex- through innumerable chasms, fissures, ure of the hill, those on the plain are and gullies, rush the superfluous waters straight, diverging fromaccntrc, in which of the lakes above, to mingle with the pa- is placed a statue of Minerva. The house rent ocean. The scenery about Pont Dol- jis famed for it’s library of ancient manu- garray, and Pont Forth L/wyd, which are scripts, chiefly welsh. At the dis- thrown across the streams issuing from Llyrt tance of a mile is Bodscallan, another seat Cowlid and l.Iyn Gcirionedd; each in pas- of sir Thomas Mostyn. It is a place of sing the rocky barrier forms a eonsidera- great antiquity, the situation is command- ble fall; but the latter is by far the most ing and finely shaded by venerable woods, grand. It is called llhaiadyr muwr. Mr. The hundred of Creuddyn is well wood- Bingley ascended along a winding path, 399 CONWY 400 which shortly conducted him to the bed of the river, near the station, whence it is seen to the greatest advantage. The wa¬ ter runs from a pool among the mountains above, called Llijn Eigiau. From the up¬ per part 2 streams, one of them much the broadest, descended, at some distance from the other. The range of rock down which the water was thrown was very wide and extremely rude, being formed, in horizontal ledges, into deep clefts and enormous chasms. Around the whole, and upon the various lodgments of the rocks, were numerous pendant shrubs. The dark shades of the clefts, and the ir¬ regular brilliancy of the prominent fea¬ tures of the scene, from the reflected rays of the sun contrasted again with the foam¬ ing of the water, were truly grand. The colours of the rock, were rich and highly varied. The streams united a little above the middle of the fall; they rushed thence in foam over the rocks, and from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was entirely hidden from me below. In ad¬ dition to this, nearly every different stra¬ tum of rock threw it into a fresh direc¬ tion. In the whole scene there was the utmost irregularity. Upon the r. of the cataract the inclosing rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned with pendant foliage. Those upon the 1. were very high and towering, adorned with grass and ferns. Mr. Bingley thought this cataract the most grand and pictur¬ esque of all that he had seen in N. Wales. [Vol. 1, p. 138.] Upon the margin of Llijn geironetld, Taliesin, a celebrated british poet, chiefly took up his residence. A wonderful story is related of this won¬ derful poet. Verily he appears to have been fated to the bulrushes like Moses of old. Elphin a son of Gwyddno Goron- hir, while fishing one day, saw a child floating.upon the water concealed in a leathern bag. The young prince com¬ passionated the little urchin, and took care of him till he was grown up. The eleve addressed his deliverer in an ode called Dyhuddiant Elphin. The peninsula of Gogarth furnishes a de¬ licious treat to the botanist. In the vi¬ cinity of Gtoddacth, mr. Evans found Cis- tus marifolius, Thalictrum minus, Arena- ria verna, Polypodium cambricum, Ver¬ onica montana, Veronica spicata, Po- tentilla verna, Lysimachia thirsiflora. Near theOrmeshead, Salicornia herbacea, Cistus helianthemum, Origanum vulgare> Anthyllis vulneraria, Chlora perfoliata- On the sands, Eryngium maritimum, Crithmum maritimum, Arundo arenaria, Sci 11a verna, Elymus arenarius, Glaucium phoenicium, and Rosa spinosisima. Oil the shore is the beautiful Pulmonaria ma¬ ritima. Besides 12 which are included in the foregoing list, mr. Bingley found the following uncommon plants, in the course of his excursion round the Creiddi- an; viz. Cotyledon umbilicus, Salvia ver- benaca, Anethum foeniculum, Orabanche minor, Sedum telephium, S. anglicum, Spirasa filipendula, Convolvulus soldan- elia, Silene maritima, Arenaria peploides, Glaux maritima, Glaucium luteum, Ero- diurn maritimum, Cochlearia officinalis, Brassica oleracea, Sisymbrium monense, Crithmum maritimum, Pyrus aria, Li- gustrum vulgare, Cichorium intybus, Juniperus communis, Rubus saxatilis, Plantago maritima, P. coronopus. Gerani¬ um columbinum, Borago officinalis; in hedges at Gloddaeth, Rubia perigrina, Si¬ lene nutans, Schropularia vernalis, Gera¬ nium sanguineum. Polypodium vulgare; upon the summit of the rock at Llandud¬ no, Borago officinalis; In salt marshes near Conwy, Glaux maritima; upon the church yard walls, Saxilraga tridactylites; in two or 3 places among the ruins of the castle, Orabanche minor; in meadows on the banks of the Conwy, about 7 miles above Llanrwst, Orobus sylvaticus; near Gyffin-mill, distant § a mile, Lathyrus latifolius. Upon the great road to Bangor the retrospect through the gate affords a sur¬ prising view of ruin. To meet the irisli road we are conducted above a mile from the town between walls clumsily formed of a beautiful marble. Two or three miles from Conwy the first grand view of Penmaenmawr opens; an immense rocky mountain of heavy lumpish form, falling into the sea. Round the lower regions of Penmaen mawr the road ap¬ pears at a distance, winding like a narrow shelf: but as we approach we find it a noble terrace, defended by two good pa¬ rapet walls; one securing it from below, an^ the other from the falling rocks above. Upon the shore near the beach, grow the 01 CONWY. 402 ^lienopodium maritimum, Erodium ma- itimnm, and at a short distance Lathyrus .ylvestris, and L. napellus. Sychnant, he dry hollow, commences 2m. from 3onwy, from the bottom arises Penmaen jack on the r. At 2§m. is Boat Sychnant, vhere the road is supported upon preci¬ pices. Betwixt this place and Tyn y uern, lies Dwygyfylche, wiih it’s church, aear the shore. On the 1. of the road is Trwyn yr wylfa, and £m. further, on the ■ame side, a little removed is Carreg Iwyd, indat a short distance further Tymaur. The country here grows wilder and the leights tremendous. From all these leights we see at a distance different parts >f the sea-coast; Anglesea. Priestholme, ind little Ormes-head. The vallies and ■ecesses among the mountains are beau- iful. Pass on the side of the stupendous Penmaen Mawr to Penmaen, the latter is 6£m. from Conwy. When the tide is out there is a way hence over the Lavan sands to the ferry across the strait of the Menai. lm. further pass on the 1. Llan- fair Fechan and on the r. Bryn y neuacld, Thomas, esq. To Aeer, 2 miles, leaving on the r. by the way, Llwynysgolog and Pant drws y bendy. Llandyg ai, 3]m. On the way from Aber, pass at about £m. from each, Crymlyn, Tanyrallt, Ty Gwynn, on the 1. and Croesbon on the r. where is a road on the same side to Capet Ogwen and oppositely to Maes y groes. Midway from Llandegai to Bangor is Castell Pen- rhyn, the elegant residence of lady Pen- rhyn, and beyond, Lime-grove, the seat of Benj. Wyatt, esq. and Port Penrhyn- Bancor, lm, 7f. On this road a truly mountainous and romantic country is pre¬ sented, the hi 11s of Flintshire and Denbigh¬ shire bearing no comparison in respect to picturesque beauty with the rocky scenes of Carnarvonshire, which instead of being gentle in ascent, and covered with turf, wear a savage and majestic face; are precipitous, rugged, and gloomy. The turnpike-road to Llanrwst lies on the same side of the Conwy as before described. After quitting Conwy pass Cyffin, jiu. lm. further Boddido, on the r. Croesynyd, lm. Yryannws, on the r. ^m. Tan y bryn, on the 1. £m. Bryn uthyn, on 1. ^m. Tyn y groes, ]m. Cefn pcnbrynllech, a m - Caer-Hun £m. [see p. 398.] Pont hryd y dung, 5m. Garlhmylog, ]m. (On the r. |m. Llanbedyrcennyn.) Taly bont, ]m, (On the r. E fynnon bed’r and further to the r. Tyddin y coed.) Tyddyn y felin, £m. Pont porth Llwyd, |m. This bridge crosses a stream issuing from Ffynnon Llyffant and Lty n geirionedd not far distant from Carnedd Llewelyn, [see page398.] Pont Ddlgorrog, lm. Coed Gwydir and Bryn y pit, l^m. Store house \ m. Trefriew, ]m. (Here cross a brook falling from the joint waters of Uyn ( rafnant and Llyn tal y llyn, which lie s. about 2m.) Pass Gwydir, nearly 2m. and enter Llanrwst. This road winds through a luxuriant vale, bounded on one side by moderately rising hills, and on the other by the eastern ter¬ mination of the Snowdon chain ; a lofty barrier, sometimes clothed with wood, and sometimes exhibiting horrid precipic¬ es, with now and then a gaping chasm, whence dash impetuous waters. The scenery at Porth Llwyd, distant 7 miles, becomes highly interesting. The irregu¬ larity of the mountains continually chang¬ ing their faces from barren crag and fis¬ sured rock, to verdant down and wooded hill; while the opposite ones, rising in gentle slopes from the meads, furnish a constant variety to the admiring eye. The bridges of Pont Porthlwyd and Pont Volgarog, are neat stone structures over their respective streams, issuing from Llyn Geirionyddand Llyn Cwlid. These rushing over the barrier, form two im¬ mense falls; the former nearly surround¬ ed by woods, and it’s perpendicular de¬ scent upwards of 180 feet. On the oppo¬ site side of the river see The Abbey, lord Newborough’s, charmingly sheltered by trees at the bottom of the hill, but suf¬ ficiently elevated above the Conwy. A little farther, upon rising ground, stands the neat and picturesque villa belonging lady Cuffin. The lake of Geirionydd is famed as having had the residence of Taliesin, the prince of british poets, upon it’s banks. Near the village of Trc- friui, the river makes a sudden bend; the tide seldom reaches farther, and the depth of water only admits of vessels of burden to this place. At this village Llewelyn had a palace; it is also remarkable for a miner¬ al well containing common salt. From it’s vicinity to the woods of Gwydir a number of small vessels are built, and sent down to Conwy at the equinoctial 403 CONWY. tides. In this track are some extensive thriving plantations of firs and larches, amid the naked rocks which form the ac¬ clivity on the right. Some lead mines are worked here. Small boats and numerous coracles are seen both above and below Llanrwstbridge, occupied chiefly in fish¬ ing. Mr. Skrine describes the sce¬ nery upon the banks of Conwy from the Ferry-house to Llanrwst, as the most beautiful ever displayed. In the year 1797 a quarry of Burrstone was discover¬ ed by Mr. Richard Bowes, and an ac¬ count of it was communicated to the So¬ ciety for Encouragement of Arts, Sec. who awarded to mr. Bowes a premium of one hundred pounds for this discovery, and mr. Bowes having died in March 1799 the money was benevolently paid by the society to his widow and children. The quarry, held on liberal terms from J. Sneyd esq. of Belmont, in Staffordshire, is dis¬ tant from Conwy £m. extending from s. to w. for the space of 2m, appearing in many places upon the surface. The body of stone is so immense that the industry of ages would scarcely lessen it. A deep chasm intervenes at the end of 2m. and in the same line across the valley the stone is mixed up with various other fos¬ sil substances. In the next rise of moun¬ tains it resumes it’s quality, takes a s. di¬ rection, and passes through a range of hills to the distance of 2m. more, where the vein disappears. To Llanrwst, 12 miles, Wyndliam; Warner. — A bergelly, 12 miles, Wyndham ; Pennant. — Penmaen mawr, 5 miles, Bingley; Gilpin. — Llandudno, 6 miles, Aikin. — Llandulas, 9§m. Pennant. — Aber, 9 miles, Skrine; Hutton. — St. Asaph, 19 miles, Hutton. — Llandudno, after visiting various parts of Go- garth, back to Conwy, thence to Llanrwst,— Evans. — Bangor, 15 miles, Warner’s 2d. walk. From Llangollen, 10 miles, Bingley; Wyndham; Hutton. — Denbigh, 2 miles, Aikin. -Cerig y Druidian, 10 miles, Evans; Warner. - Bala, 13ss miles, Skrine. - Ruthin, 13 miles, Pennant. CORWEN, (the white choir) in Meri¬ onethshire, is a small neat market town, situated under a rock at the foot of the Bcrwin mountains, on the southern bank of the Dec, but has more the appearance CORWEN. 404 of a village. The church contains an an¬ cient monument to the memory of Jor- werth Sulien, one of the vicars. In the church-yard is a very old stone pillar, which has been much ornamented. Near the church-yard is an alms-house, founded in 1709, by William Eyton, es¬ quire, of Plas Warren, Shropshire, for six clergymen’s widows of Merionethshire. It is now occupied by one only. This place is much resorted to, during the sea¬ son, by anglers, the river abounding with trout, grayling, and salmon. Upon the other side the river, opposite the town, is a british post, called Caer Drewyn; a circle of loose stones upon the summit of a steep hill, about g a mile in circum¬ ference, with the remains of circular hab¬ itations within. Owen Gwynedd is sup¬ posed by Lyttelton, to have occupied this post while Henry 2, was encamped on the opposite side of the vale. It was af¬ terwards a retreat of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr. This post may be distinguish¬ ed from the church-yard, in the direction of the village of Cwmwyd. This encamp¬ ment commands a fine view of the vales of Glyn-Dwrdwy and Edeirnion ; the for¬ mer is much celebrated as the frequent retreat of Owen Glyndwr, whose memo¬ ry is still revered in the neighbourhood, as being the scene of his exploits and hospitality. [See Llangollen.] The whole circle is visible, at the distance of two miles from the town on the Llanrwst road. Corwen contains a good inn a- dorned with the gigantic features of Ow¬ en Glyndwr, the renowned and formida¬ ble opponent of Henry 2. Glyndwr is said to have attended divine service at Corwen church, where a door-way is shewn, now made up, through which he entered to his pew in the chancel. Up¬ on the Berwyn mountain behind the church, is a place called G lyndwr’ s seat, whence, superstition says, he threw adagger which fell on a stone and left an impression of it’s entire length, half an inch deep, which stone forms a part of the door-way just mentioned. From Glyndwr’s seat among the rocks, is a most charming prospect. The rich and delightful vale of Corwen expands to view, with the Dee in the centre. Here Glyndwr might view near¬ ly 40 square miles of his own land. The rocks about Corwen abound with the Lichen probosci e us, and Rubus chams- '405 CORWEN. 406 morus, called mwyar Berwyn mulberry ; anglice Dewberries. While mr. Hutton was at Corwen he paid a visit to Rug, the seat of colonel Salisbury, successor to Glyndwr, as lord of Corwen, distant 3 miles. Here he “ saw a dagger, knife, and fork, all in one sheath, but each had a distinct compart¬ ment, richly ornamented with silver, which Glyndwr usually carried. The knife and fork arc rather slender. The dagger is about 17 inches long, 12 of which constitute the blade, which tapers to a point. At the end o( the handle is his arms, consisting of a lion rampant and three flowers de lis, curiously engraven. The principal part of the handle is inlaid with black and yellow wood, banded with silver; and the shield at the top of the blade, a solid piece of the same metal, curiously wrought, but not much larger in circumference than a crown piece. The knife and fork must necessarily be sheathed first, which the shield covers, consequently, the dagger must be drawn first.” Mr. Skrine quitted the great road on his way to Vale Crucis Abbey, to make a digression to Llanilisilio, the charming seat of mr. Jones, on the opposite side of the valley. The abbey is situated in a i narrow recess, overshaded by a vast lux¬ uriance of wood. No situation can be , more delightful for monastic seclusion. [See Crucis Abbey.] The distance from Corwen to Bala, along the usual road, is eleven miles, but there is another which passes along the banks of the Dee, a mile or two longer, through the Vale of Edeirneon. At the time that mr. Bingley travelled this way he found the road so bad as to be almost impassable, but whenever he could reach an eminence he found much to admire. At the village of Cynwyd, 2£m. (the source of mischief) turning on the left about half a mile up a dell, appears Rhaiadyr Cynwyd (the waterfall of Cynwyd) 3m. Around this cataract is much picturesque beauty, the water of the river Trystiog, (the im¬ petuous) rushing in a furious torrent from the rocks above, dashes with a tremen¬ dous roar to the rugged bottom along which it rages, till it joins the Dee, a little above Cynwyd. Passing the little church of Uangar, a little farther on the left, is a field called Caer Runt, is a small circu¬ lar entrenchment, consisting of a foss and rampart, with two entrances. Upon a hill above this place, called Y Foel, is a circular coronet of rude pebbly stones; with an entrance to the east. Within was a circular cell. At the distance of 100 yards are the reliques of a great Carnedd, surrounded by large stones. At a- bout a mile from Llandrillo, mr. Pennant crossed the Dee, at Pont G'i/an, a bridge of 2 arches, over a deep and black water 4jm. “ Beyond this spot,” says our Au¬ thor, “the valley acquires new beauties, especially on the right. It here contracts; the road running at the foot of a brow, of a stupendous height, covered with vene¬ rable oaks. The scenery of this spot re¬ quires the pencil of a Salvator Rosa.” Passing Llandrillo, (the church of st. Tril- lo) at the distance of about 3 miles, mr. Bingley crossed the Dee to Llanderfel, a - nother small village. The church was once remarkable as containing a vast wooden image of TJerfel Gadarn, it’s pat¬ ron saint. The Welsh had a prophecy that this image should set a whole forest on fire. On the condemnation of dr. For¬ est for treason, in 1338, it was sent for and placed under him as fuel, when he was burned in Smithfield. Whether this proceeding was intended to fulfil the pro¬ phecy or destroy this object of the peo¬ ple's idolatry is uncertain. At some distance from Llanderfel-bridge, the val¬ ley almost closes ; and at Calettur it fin¬ ishes with a nobly wooded eminence, a- bove which soars the vast mass of the At- renig mountains. Upon sandy places on this road grows the Scleranthus perennis. Mr. Pennant advises the traveller, who does not choose to pursue his route, to follow the course of the Dec from Bangor iscoed, through the delightful tract which it waters, to Llangollen; through Glyn- dwrnwy to Corwen, and thence through the matchless vale of Edcirnion to this spot. On the 1. lies Rhiwaedog, or tire bloody brow, famed for a battle between Llyioarch Hen and the Saxons, in which he lost Cynddelw, the last of his 24 sons. Not far distant is a spot called Pabell Lly- ivarc/t Hen, or the tent of the monarch ; probably the house where he spent the latter part of his days. Others, say that having lost his patrimonial possessions, by opposing the encroachments of tbc 407 CORWEN. Saxons, he retired to a hut at Aber Cuog (now Dolguog, near Machynlleth) to sootli with his harp the remembrance of misfor¬ tune. The house and estate of Rhiwae- dog is now possessed by a descendant of the Llwyds, who very anciently were the inheritors. At Pale occurs the residence of the rev. John Lloyd. Near this gentle¬ man’s house is a druidic temple, in a very perfect state. It is situated in a wood surrounded by fine oaks. Formerly, a woman took up her abode under this al¬ tar, who thence, made predatory visits to her neighbours in the night, to procure food for her daily sustenance. She lived there many years undisturbed. In a field adjoining the wood, is a stone chest, placed about l£ feet below the surface of the ground. The side stones are about two yards in length, and the heads nearly one. Mr. Bingley regained the high¬ road at 2m. distance from Bala, when he visited Han fawr (the great village). 2gm. This is the supposed place of interment of Llyu-arch Hen, the Cambrian prince, and most celebrated british bard and war¬ rior, who flourished in the 7th century; and after a life of vicissitudes and misfor¬ tunes, died about the year 670, at the great age of 150 years. Pabell Llywarch Hen, lies not far distant from this place. l|m. Bala. When mr. Bingley visit¬ ed Corwen, he made a 6 miles’ excursion to Pont y Glyn [which see], on the road to Llanrwst. The scenery of this walk has many beauties, especially from one place where the vale of Edeirneon is bounded by the lofty Jerwyn mountains. The road from Corwen to Llangollen is generally a terrace, elevated above the Dee, presenting at every turn scenes of richness and romantic beauty. Upon the side of a hill, £m, from Corwen above the turnpike-road to Llangollen grows the 1- beris nudicaulis. Pass Llansainlfraid, about 3m. distant, on the opposite side of the river, on the left, leaving Glynilowery- ParJc, the residence of captain Salisbury, or tile right. Near this may be found the site of Owen Glendwr’s palace, called Sycharth or Sychnant. Entering the vale of Llangollen or Glyn- dwrdwy, and rambling for some miles up¬ on the banks of tire famed Dee, the lofty Berwyn stretches it’s high table land to the r., while the left is formed by gentle COWBRIDGE. 408 slopes and verdant meadows, Proceed¬ ing, the mountains put on a bolder aspect, and the valley with it’s river, assume a more varied shape. The road sometimes leads to the acclivity of a mountain, and again drops into the lengthened vale; while the opposite side of the river con¬ sists of moderately wooded hills, clothed in all the luxuriance of forest foliage, and interspersed with villas and cottages. Descending into a rich bottom surround¬ ed by woods, where a crystal stream is¬ sues from a fissured rock into a natural bason below ; hence the boundary to the left opens in the small but beautiful vale of Egzeest, through which a rapid stream from the mountains of Yale, flows into the Dee. The variety of the scenery in¬ creases in the approach to Llangollen. Catch a distant view of Dinas Bran Castle, upon the top of a high conic hill. A summit rises in the middle of the vale which forces the Dee to the left, while the road takes a winding direction up an opening between it’s base and the ridge of hills which accompany the traveller on the right. In an opening towards the Dee appear the embowered ruins of Cru- cis Abbey. The Dee again meets the road, and it’s bank below becomes lofty. Llanclysillo-Hall, and it’s environs, on the left of Crucis-abbey, possess almost un¬ rivalled beauty of situation. To Pont y Glyn, 6 miles, Bingley. — Bala, 13jmiles, Bingley; Wyndliam; Pennant, — Llangollen, 10 miles, Aikin ; Evans; Warner. — Cerig yDruidian, 10 miles, Hulton. — Vale Crucis Abbey, 9 miles, Skrine. — Rulhin, 13 miles. — Llanrwst, 24 miles. yy ^^/y a/a/aaaaav aaaaaaaj// From Llanbithian Castle, 1 mile, Barber. Commencement of Mr. Malkin’s Four. From Llandaff, 10 miles, Donovan; Wyndham; Skiine. -Caerdiff, 12t miles, Warner. COWBRIDGE or Pont-van, is a neat, little, corporate town in Glamorganshire, divided into two by a small river, which, at a short distance, falls into the sea. In the year 1091, it was encompassed with a stone wall by Robert de St. Quintin, who afterwards built the castle of Llan- blethian. One .-f the gates remains in good condition, and is a bold gothic piece of building. The Free-school was en¬ dowed by sir Llewellyn, or Lleolinus Jen- 410 109 COWBRIDGE. kins, who was secretary of state in the reign of Charles 2, and is at present well supported, and in considerable repute. It has 2 fellowships, 2 scholarships, and an exhibition in Jesus College, Oxford. It is at present under the government of the rev. William Williams, prebendary of Llandaff. The Church is so singularly ihaped, that it appears at a distance like he embattled turret o( an old fortress, if wain 19, or Owain, son of Cyllin, held lis court here. A large tumulus, and the emains of a druidic temple in a field near he church are the only remains of it’s an¬ ient importance. The Streets are broad ind paved, with a good market well sup¬ plied with provisions. Along the tills which recede to the s-w. beyond the own, the great military road, carried [trough the county of Glamorgan may be eadily traced, stretching in a broad, traight line. The following Excursion was made ry mr. Malkin. At a short distance o the n-e of Cowbridge, is Arburthen, a village, which claims attention on nooth- r account than that of presenting a rural ind retired spot, highly ornamented by iome remarkably neat, white cottages, with small gardens. On the road to Welsh St. Donatts, in a very narrow anc, there is a tree, for size and luxuri- ince, well worih the attention of those who are curious in such particulars. The situation particularly that of mr. Llewel¬ yn’s house, is agreeable without being staiking. In this village are several spec- mens of the genuine Welsh pig-sty, which is well as the pigeon-house is ornamental. From the top of an elevated common just beyond Welsh St Donatt’s, look down on the village of Peterstun on the r. Before you lies Ilensol, the estate of Samuel Richardson, esq., purchased from lord Talbot, whose family were the ancient welsh possessors of Hensol. The late ate lord Talbot, son of the lord chancel- or, added the two wings, with thetowers, actween 1730 and 17-10. It was the eld¬ est son of the lord chancellor, whom Thomson accompanied in his travels and whose death he laments in the introduc¬ tory lines to his “ Liberty.” A piece of artificial water here measures 25 acres. Yslradmen, at the distance of 2 miles, is remarkable on account of the battle fought rotween Conan ap Sistijlht, and the Sax¬ ons ; and still more for the meeting ot the welsh bards, under the immemorial pat¬ ronage of the Hensol family, at whose ex. pense they were annually entertained, with every indication of native hospitali¬ ty. on the 28th of May. The last assem¬ bly took place in 1720, and, in conse¬ quence of the death of Richard Jenkins, the last of the family, it was discontinued. The house where the bards were enter¬ tained is still standing. On the road to Llantrissent is Ashhnll, the residence of Richard Aubrey, esq. Mr. Malkin thought this one of the most desirable places in the country, on a small and un¬ affected scale. “ Viewed from a dis¬ tance,” says he, “ it holds out no induce¬ ment for the traveller to deviate from his path ; but when arrived there, he is sur¬ prised to find that, from an eminence, gentle and apparently inconsiderable, he commands the whole of the rich and fer¬ tile flat between the spot he stands on, and the British-channel, the view of which, on a bright day. with the Somer¬ setshire and Devonshire hills beyond, is singularly beautiful; while the situation itself is skirted by a woody shelter, and emboldened by the range of hills bound¬ ing the prospect on the n. Leaving Ash- all on the L, and keeping the boundaries of Hensol on the right, you enter on a road which carries you from the track of english conversation and polished inhab¬ itants. But nature, growing wilder, as more retired, amply recompenses the pic¬ turesque traveller for the loss. The landscape becomes holder and more woody ; the hills are nearer, their magni¬ tude more imposing; and the situation of Llantrissant which fills, with it’s white buildings, the lofty pass between 2 crag¬ gy peaks, imparts no common interest to his progress towards the mountains. On gaining the church-yard, you have a mag¬ nificent view', in which Penlline Castle forms a striking feature. The town of Llantrissant is very limited and irregular. The Church is a large norman edifice. Of the Castle, little remains besides the fragment of a circular tower; but that lit¬ tle is worth visiting, for the sake of the situation and view. The parish of Llan¬ trissent gave birth to sir Llewelyn, orLe- olinus Jenkins. On passing the cleft on which the town stands, the change in the face of nature is very striking, and the 4i i COWBRIDGE. 412 contrast of character between a mountain valley and that which you have just left, rarely impresses itself more strongly. From this eminence Castella, a seat be¬ longing to the family of Traherne, is seen to much advantage. Myrtles here bear the open air all the year. At the bottom of the long descent, the road on the right leads to Yr Evel lssa, and across the TafF to Caerphilly Castle ; but the road to Pont y pridd, or the New Bridge, conducts you straight forwards up a hill, higher than that just descended. For 3m. the road is very dreary and irregular. The change, on reaching the brow of a very steep hill, a mile in length, is instantaneous and de¬ lightful. The confluence of the TafF and Rontha Vawr, the amphitheatre of hills, the stupendous bridge, the luxuriance of hanging woods, projecting masses of rock, all may be seen at once. The effect of the bridge is much more sensibly felt, if it be first examined from this eminence, than if your approach were from the Caer- difFroad; and the vale of TafF is seen to more advantage, by taking the turnpike- road from Pont y pridd, than by coming up from either of those places, [see Pont y pridd.] The road from Pont y pridd to the Bridgwater’s Arms, a respectable inn, passes along the river side, with which a curious canal keeps pace. This canal is a remarkable instance of art tri¬ umphing over natural obstacles. The course of the river continues dark, rocky, interrupted, and romantic. The hills, which close in the narrow vale, arc lofty and precipitate, but clothed with an almost cxhaustless magnificence of wood. Look¬ ing towards CaerdifF the hills crowd more obtusively on the bed of the TafF, and the road passes gradually higher up the sides to the unspeakable gratification of the traveller. At Porto Bello, where the road turns to the left for Caerphilly Cas¬ tle, the mountain along the side of which you journey, is romantically topped by a very picturesque castle in ruins. This is a most characteristic spot. The castle was a dependency on CaerdifF, and a sort of outpost. The tin-works at Melin-Gryf- fydd, 4m. n. of CaerdifF, are of considera¬ ble extent. Near this place, the road to¬ wards LlandafF crosses the canal, while the CaerdifF road lies straight forwards. There are few occurrences more gratify¬ ing to the mind, than the contrast of scenery higher up the vale, compared with that at LlandafF bridge. The river from a rapid, noisy, shallow torrent, be¬ comes gentle and glassy like a lake. Near LlandafF is the rural village of St. Fagan’s, which contains a castle of a somewhat modern construction. The descent by the castle wall is pleasing; and the bridge affords a fine view of the Elwy. A short distance brings the trav¬ eller into the high-road between CaerdifF and Cowbridge, at the foot of a steep hill, ! on the top of which he comes upon St. Ly- than’s common, which affords a rich and most extensive view, over the vale of St. Fagan’s or Elwy, bounded by the northern moun¬ tains. At the edge of the common, on the right, as you proceed towards Cow¬ bridge, is Coedhyglan, a handsome brick house, prominently situated, the property of Llewellyn Traherne esq. The village of St. Nicholas contains some very neat cottages and gardens. A road to the left leads to some ancient monuments, sup¬ posed to be druidic, near Dyffryn-house, i in a vale, with a village called DyfFryn,a- bout 6m. s-w. of CaerdifF. The most re¬ markable of these is one of the farms be¬ longing to the hon. Wm. Booth Grey, a- bout half way between the village of St, Nicholas and DyfFryn-house. It is sup¬ ported by 5 large stones enclosed entirely on the e. w. and n. sides, but open to the s. forming a room 16 feet long and 15 wide, at the e. end 6 feet high, at the w. end 4§. The supporting stone to the n. is 16 feet long, that on the w. end, 9 feet long. At the eastern extremity are three stones set closely together. The length of the horizontal stone is 24 feet, 17 in it’s widest part, and from 2 feet to 2g feet thick; it’s contents 324 square feet, being nearly thrice as large as that of the crom¬ lech near Newport, Pembrokeshire, which sir Richard Hoare has supposed the largest in Wales or in England, except Stonehenge and Abury. About -Jm. to the s-e. of DyfFryn-house, stands a crom¬ lech called the greyhound-bitch-kennel, a name occasioned probably as mr. Edward Williams has conjectured, from the intem¬ perate frenzy of the first Christians, who might have converted these druidic plac¬ es, by way of stigma, into dog-kennels. The second conspicuous remain near Dyf- fryn, bearing the same name, consists of 4 large stones ; one on the n. another on the s. side, each 10J feet long, by 7 high, and nearly 2 feet thick. At the w. end, ,3 COWBRIDGE. 414 ■ere is another stone, 5 feet long. These resides. In the church-yard is ayew-tree, ipport the top, which measures 14 feet in perfect health, girth 18 feet 6 inches. f 13, and 13 feet wide at the e, end, the In 1803, it was large and branching, in iean breadth is about 10 feet. It forms 1806, it was stripped of it’s venerable kind of room 11 feet long, 5 wide, and 7 arms, and left a naked trunk, robbed and gh. It was formerly occupied as a sta- dishonoured. From Llantrythid-park e for one horse. There are some re- enter upon a down w hich opens a fine ains of a cam on 3 of the sides, which prospect. The town of Cowbridge in ive been much diminished by building the bottom, the hill and church of Llanble- cottage, just by, out of them. There than, with it’s castle beyond, and the bold- e other structures of this kind, or frag- ly situated castle of Peniline, from a scene ents of them, within short distances, of much grandeur. Ou the left is St. Hil- ith heaps of stones round them. When ary. This situation almost vies with Co- e Christians gained the ascendancy, the edhyglan in point of boldness, nailer kinds were thrown down, and Between Cowbridge and Caerdiff, e large ones were contumulously cov- mr. Malkin visited the following places, ed with stones, in imitation of the an- St. Mary’s-church, the road to which is ent british way of executing criminals through the prettiest, most woody and hen they fixed him first to the spot, and picturesque part of Glamorganshire. The en heaped upon him a pile of stones, village contains nothing remarkable, but hose who passed also threw up stones; there is an adjoining field, a Castle which ;nce the expression still current in challenges the admiration both of the an- ales, “ A earn murderer,” and the im- tiquary and architect. It was formerly •ecation, “ may a heap of stones lie o- (] ie residence of Llewellyn ap Sitsylht, :r thee.” The druids always worship- his brothers, and Gruffyth his son. [Sec 1 in the open air. The laws of Howel a history of this family in mr. Malkin’s da were made, andthc courts of justice work, vol. 1, p. 1S9, with various conjec- so held in the openair. On regaining tures respecting the architecture of this je turnpike, the first object of attention is castle, called Beaupue ofnorman etymol- btteril, on the side of the road from Caer- ogy, frequently written Beuper.] Thefor- ff to Cowbridge, opposite the 5m. stone, tress and estate was sold to sir Phillip Bas¬ il the gate which enters into the park, sett, lord of St. Hilary, and purchased by •ows a very magnificent wych elm, one a mr. Edmondes, about the year 1758. O- the largest in the kingdom. At the ver the entrance are the arms of the Bas- jight of 6 feet it’s girth is 20 feet. The se n family ; the porch is a fine and very hole premises of Cotteril, the residence ornamental specimen of greek architec- mr. Lascelles, are very beautiful; the t ur e, 3 stories high, consisting of the dor- trk abounds with picturesque mequali- ic, ionic, and Corinthian. The capitals of es, and the view of the house towards tlie columns, intaglios, and other sculp- le hills is uncommonly fine. In a field, [ UreS) are finished in a very masterly man, ist opposite, is a very large stone, 10 or ner in the intercolumniations of the 2d. 2 feet high, or more in width. St.Geoig. or ionic story, and dado of the pedestals 's and Peterston super Elwy, have each of are 3 tablets i nscr ibed. lem their castles. In the church of the irmer place are some gothic monuments. Ihe village of Bonvilslon, contains noth- lg remarkable except a well wooded iew of the flat, and some ornamented bttages. Llantrythid Park abounds i romantic and picturesque spots. The ouse is said to have been built in the me of Henry the sixth. Thewindows are ncommonly large. One is 12 feet square, nother 12 feet by 9, &c. This estate is le property of sir John Aubrey, the des¬ cendant of an ancient family, who resid- |d here. Sir John has another estate in uckinghamshire upon which he chiefly Say couldst thou e ver fynde. or ever hea re or see : a worldly w ret che or coward prove a faythful frynde to be. Richarde Bassett, having to wyfe katherinc, daughter to Sir Thomas Johns knight bwylt this porche with the chymnye tunnes in anno 1600. his years 65. his wife 55. 415 COWBRIDGE. 416 The ornamental parts of this piece of ex¬ traordinary architecture were performed by Richard Twrch, who with his brother William wrought at the freestone quarries near the mouth of Ogmore river about the time of Edward 6, and queen Eliza¬ beth. Both these brothers were enam¬ oured of the same young woman, which created jealousies ending in a virulent and inexplicable quarrel. The young wom¬ an, having learnt the nature of the con¬ duct of these brothers, rejected them both. This decision affected the spirits of Rich¬ ard exceedingly. He quitted the country, travelled for 30 years in Italy, &c., and returned to work at the family quarry in Glamorganshire. It was on this farm and in this house that David Edwards the bridge-builder resided. A long and inter¬ esting history of this castle, with many ingenious conjectures respecting the beau¬ ty of it’s architecture, &c, may be found in mr. Malkin’s work, vol. 1, p. 181, where he asserts that the porch and frontispiece of the chapel, with the exception of one infringement, are as chaste and exact, not¬ withstanding their comparatively small scale, as the most splendid of Inigo’s de¬ signs, tho’ executed before his time by a native of Glamorganshire. Llancar- van, celebrated as the birth-place of Car- adoc the historian, who wrote the histo¬ ry of Cambria, from the abdication of Cadwallader to his own time. Of this work there were several copies preserv¬ ed in the abbeys of Conwy and Ystradflur. Caradoc was contemporary with Geoffry of Monmouth. His Chronicle or History of Wales was translated into English, by Humphry Llwyd, and published with ad¬ ditions by dr. David Powel, in 4to, 1684; by Wynne, 1697; 1704, in 8vo; and af¬ terwards by sir John Price, knight, in 1774. Flemingstone, where are some remains of a castle adjoining the church¬ yard. Anciently Llanmihangel y Twyn, afterwards Michaelson Le Pitt. In this village lives mr. Edward Williams, author Qf 2 volumes of highly meritorious poems ; a man who is capable of doing the world more service, than the world seems either willing to receive or return. His claims to distinction arc founded on his know¬ ledge as an antiquarian, profound and sa¬ gacious in every thing curious relating to the customs, manners, and history of his native principality. The village of St. Athens, has a castle called East Orch' ard, built in the year 1091, by Roger Bek- rols, standing on the edge of an exten¬ sive flat. A luxuriant wild fig-tree grows out of the cement of the chapel walls- Perhaps the Turkey fig-tree might be propagated with more success grafted up¬ on this wildling, which probably origin¬ ated in the cultivated fig, planted in the gardens of norman lords. In St. Athen’s church, there are two uncommonly fine gothic monuments of the Berkrols family. In St. Athen’s Parish are remains of 2 oth¬ er castles. West Orchard and Castleton. From this spot there is a good view of Fonmore or Fronmon Castle, which is the most extensive and august of the welch inhabited castles. The kitchen is said to be the largest in the kingdom. Here is an excellent portrait of Oliver Cromwell- Near this place is the little village of Pen- mark. The 2 Isles of Barry and Scilly, on the sea-shore, derive their names from a saint and a conqueror. [See page 74.J The Flat-holm and Steep are seen from all this neighbourhood. The former has it’s lighthouse. Michaelst.on le Pit, is an elegant villa, in a delightful retirement, belonging to mr. Rous. In the church yard of St. Cyngar or Cungarus, is an an¬ cient cross, with roman frets, similar to those of Llantwit-major, with a short in- scription in british characters of the 5th century. Llandough, distant 2m.stand¬ ing on rising ground on the western side of the Ely river. Hence are fine views of Caerdiff, of Llandaff, and down the riv¬ er to Penarth harbour. In this parish stands Coggan, a fine old gothic mansion, in the style of the 15th century, the prop¬ erty of the Marquis of Bute, now used as a farm-house. Wenvoe, the seat of Robert Jenner, esq., a modern building, in the castle form, possessing the outward show and trappings of a place of defence, without the capacity ; the grounds are well wooded, agreeable, and diversified ; the village is neat and pretty. Be¬ tween Wenvoe and the Caerdiffroad, lies Caireu, where there is an entire roman camp occupying a hill of 10 or 12 acres, oblong, and nearly rectangular in figure. The parish church is situated within the works. The Porta Decumana is to be seen on the w., and at the e. end, the gen¬ eral’s tent. From this camp, the travel¬ ler comes upon the turnpike road, at the 413 417 COWBRIDGE. listance of about 400 yards, opposite to St. Fagans, and crosses Ely-bridge, at no great distance. The flat is enlivened as be proceeds by Pennarth, it’s harbour, ind shipping ; till White-horse bridge, o- ver a small arm of the Taff, introduces him to the beautiful meadows leading up to Llandaff. Mr. Warner from Cowbridge proceed¬ ed to Si. Quintin castle, at the distance of i mile ; thence to the sequestered village sf Llanbethian or St. Quintin’s, and through a pleasing country to Llantwit, major, distant from Cowbridge 6 miles, [see St. Donat’s.] Pursuing his route to the shore, he visited Boverton Form, a spot which Camden endeavours to make the site of an ancient station. Mr. Warner’s leading objects, in a visit to the coast, were to examine a natural cavern in the rock called Rennet’s Cave, which, when the tide is out, may be entered to the ex¬ tent of 60 yards; and to examine the cu¬ rious stratification of the cliff. To Neath, soon after passing the Toll- bar at Cowbridge, a house called Willow- bush, lies on the r. and |m. further, a road to Llanrynach is on the 1. At the 2d. m. where is a cross-road, on the 1. is Pen¬ nine Chapel, a mile to the 1. Lisyorney, and Nash, rev. I. Came. Proceeding £ a m. on the 1. is Pwll y wrack, David Thomas, esq. and the village of Colwinslon. Pass a heathy tract, on the 1. called the Golden Mile, terminating at the 4th mile from Cowbridge, where is a farm house on the r. pass Brocaslle and Langland on the r. at the termination of the 5th m. Ewenny Castle and village lies a little to titer. Cross the Ogmore river at Ewenny-bridge, 4|m. Oldcaslle, Bridgend, and Newcastle lie a- bout a mile distant on the r. 1 m. further cross the Llynfi, at New Inn. The vil¬ lage of Merthyrmawr lies to the 1. on the banks of the Ogwen, and J a mile beyond Canileston, the seat of John Franklen, esq. At the 9th m. the village of Laleston lies a little to the r. where is a good house possessed by T. Bonnet, esq. gam. fur¬ ther leave on the 1. Tythegston-hall, the residence of Henry Knight, esq. At 12£ miles is Pyle-Inn and village, affording to the traveller excellent accommodation. Leave on the 1. Cenfig, Higher Cenfig, Cenfig-house, the Roman monument, Eg- Iwysnynidd , reaching a house called Beg. gar’s bush, upon the skirts of Margam- park. At the 14th m. is Margam, with it’s concomitants of ruined abbey, an¬ cient cross, monumental stones, and ro¬ man camp. On the 1. is Ty yn y ca, the residence of dr. Hunt. Pass the hamlets of Bromhill and Taybach to the copper- works on the sea side near Aberavon-Bar, to Aberavon at the 19 m., where are forg¬ es and rail ways upon, the banks of the A- von, to coal-pits at the foot of Mynydd Bychan. Pass through a district of 2 miles, the Aberavon marsh and burrows on the 1. Mynidd Aberavon, being on the r. Reach Greenfield, the residence or G. Llewelyn, on the r; a little further the hamlet of Baglan on the 1. and on the op¬ posite side of the road Baglan-hall, T. Jones, esq. Passing almost close to Neath-Bar, reach Britton Ferry, over the river Neath, at it’s estuary into Swan¬ sea Bay. The importance given to this place by the residence and improvements of lord Vernon, has caused it to become a distinct article in this work, which the reader may refer to at page 224. At the 2r»d. mile w'here a rivulet and road diverges to the r. are some houses called Panthowell ddu Isha. On the r. is the Eagles-biish House, the residence of Her¬ bert Evans, esq. .About the 24th mile pass some copper-works. On entering the town of Neath, Gnoll-Castle is con¬ spicuous on the r. To MerthyrTydvil, pursue mr. Mal¬ kin’s excursion page 409, by way of Abur- thin, 1 [m. (on the 1. Newton-house) Ystrad- azeen, l^m. (on the 1. Ashhall, on the r. Hensol, Sam. Richardson, esq. Withiu lm. of Llantrissant, on the 1. to Bridgend, 10m.) Llantrissant, 4|m. to Pont y Pridd, 4m. (Cross the Taff river and Caerdiff canal; on r. to Caerdiff, 1 lm.) See Pont y Pridd for the remainder of the route. To Merthyr Tydvill, 23g miles. — Bridgend, 8 miles, Btngley. An Excursion by 11. 11. Malkin, esq. lienee to Caerdiff. To Newton, after visiting Penline, Coity, Llan- blythian, Llantwitmajor, St. Donat’s, Dunra- ven, Brid|iort,Llanblythian Castle,—Donovan. — St. Donatt’s, 5 miles, Wyndham; Skiine; Warner. — Welsh St. Donats, miles, Malkin. — Neath, 25 miles. 419 CRICCEATIT. 42( From Penmorva, 3 miles. Pennant; Bingley. - Beddgellart, 10 miles. CRICCIETH is a little market and bor¬ ough town, contributory to Caernarvon, situated upon the n. end of Caerdigan- bay, in the promontory of Llyn. In 1801 the population amounted to 368; the number of houses were 84, and of the commonest kind, without the regularity of streets. Yet is the place ancient, and the ruined Castle, not unworthy of atten¬ tion. This fortress stands upon an emi¬ nence at the end of a long neck of land, projecting into the sea. The entrance was by this narrow isthmus, which was defended by a double foss and vallum thrown across it. The gateway isbetween two rounded bastion towers, which are square within, into an irregular court, be¬ yond which is another of smaller dimen¬ sions. The rest of the towers are of a quadrangular form, 1 within the area, and 2 upon the edge of the rock. Some writ¬ ers suppose that this castle was founded by Edward 1, but others, with more probabil- ty, that he repaired and altered it only. Rowlands says (Mona Antiqua, 149,) that it was a british post. The architecture resembles a castle at Dolwyddelan. Af¬ ter the conquest, Edward appointed Wil¬ liam de Leybourn the governor, with an annual allowance of 100/. Out of this a- mount he had to maintain 30 stout men, a chaplain, surgeon, carpenter, and one mason. The Black Prince bestowed the government on Sir Howell y Fwyall, who disputed with a knight of Artois the tak¬ ing the king of France prisoner at Poi¬ tiers. He was allowed 8 yeomen, by the king, at 8 d. per day. The country lying between this place and the hundred of Efionydd, abounded with gentry who formed a genus the most irritable. This part of Caernarvon, in remote times, was inherited by two clans; one of them de¬ scended from Owen Gwynedd, prince of Wales, consisting of 4 houses, Cesail Gy- farch, Ys/ym Cegid, Clenney Bryncir, Glass- fryn, or CwmstraUyn ; the other was deriv¬ ed from Colbxyn ap Tangno, and consisted of the houses of Whilog, Bron y Foe!, Ber- hin, Gwynfryn, Tal hen bont, now Plas hen, and Pennardd. In the days I allude to, the feuds among the gentry, filled the land with blood. The history of our country during that period is the history of revenge, perfidy, and slaughter. Pen¬ nant’s Tour, vol. ii, p. 369. See an ac¬ count of these feuds in Bingley’s North Wales, vol. i, p. 408. On his route to Caernarvon, mr. Pen¬ nant first crossed a little stream upon a bridge of 3 arches, at Llan Ystyndwy, a church and village, in a pretty wooded bottom. A little farther inland is Plas Hen, a seat of the Vaughan family. Cross the little river Arch at Aber-arch, near the church. At the distance of a mile, reach Pwllheli, a magazine which sup¬ plies a large district with necessaries. The entrance is by a high rock called the Gimlet. Hence 5m. inland to Corn Mad- ryn, a lofty, rocky, insulated hill; noted for having been a strong hold of the sons of Owen Gwynedd, Roderick and Malgwn, to whom this part ol the country belong¬ ed. The bottom, sides, and top, are filled with cells, oblong, oval, or circular; once thatched, or covered from the in¬ clemency of the weather. The summit was surrounded with a wall, still visible in many places; From this mount is an extensive view of the country, with the bay of Caernarvon on one side, and that of Caerdigan on the other. Sam Badrig is seen extending from Merionethshire it’s dangerous length; more distant is seen S. Wales, and Ireland; in front, the whole tract of Snowdonia, At the foot of this hill is Madryn, formerly the seat of the Bodvels, now of-Parry, esq. From Pwllheli continued near the shore, to Llan Badrog, along the sides of a noble bay, to Tudwal’s road, sheltered by two islands of that name. In the promontory Penrhyn dn, one of the points of this bay, attempts have been made to obtain lead, but without effect. A little beyond, is another bay, called Hell’s-muulh, dreaded by mariners, being the Scylla to the Cha- rybdis of Spin Badrig, the extremity of which lies nearly opposite. In a short time, reached Aberdaron, a poor village, at the very end of Caernarvonshire, seat ed upon a sandy bay. The mouth of it is guarded by 2 little islands, called Ynys Gwylan, The small rivulet Daron emp ties itself here. In the church are two ailes, supported by 4 very handsome pil¬ lars. Near Aberdaron grows Brassica ol- eracea. From this port, mr. Pennant took a boat for Bardsey island which lies about 3 leagues to the west. After doubling a headland, the island appear- 421 CRICCKATJT. 422 ed full in view ; passed under the lofty mountain which forms one side, and doubling the farther end, put into a lit¬ tle sandy creek, bounded by low rocks. Returned through the rapid current call¬ ed the Race of Bardsey, between the island and the great promontory of Braech y Pivll, the canganum promontorium of Ptolomy : part of it is called Maen Me- lyn; the rest is a vast precipice, black and tremendous. After landing at Aber- daron, visited it’s summit, and found the ruins of a small church, called Capel Fair, (the chapel of our lady.) Not far hence, passed by the ruins of Capel Anhelog, (the chapel without endowment). Passing a fertile bottom, ascended a lofty mountain, impending over the sea, called Uwch rnyn- ydd, on which are several circular hol¬ lows. Descended and passed by a large and ancient house called Bethlehem. Not far hence, about ^m. from the shore, rises a high rock, called Maen y mellt, or the stone of lightning. Rode by Cefn am- uelch , and soon after to Vnjnodol, seats of the Griffiths, lienee visited the neigh¬ bouring shore, which is low and rocky, opening into frequent little creeks. A- niong these arc Barth Tuwyn, Barth Caiman, Barth Gwylun, and Barth Usgadan. Near the last, about the year 1750, a rock, which towered a great height out of the sea, was missed, after a horrible night of thunder and lightening. In the fields a- bout Porth Gwylan grows samphire in a- bundance, on which cattle feed. The very extensive hundred of Llyn or Lleyn, is generally flat, but interspersed with most characteristic hills or rocks; none of which is so conspicuous as Cam Mad. ryn and Caivi Boduon. The district ex¬ tending from these hills to the confines of Caernarvon, formed in the 9th century, the territories of Cilmyn d/ved du (or of the black leg) nephew to Merfyn Frych (who defeated the Saxons at l.lanfaes) and founder of one of the 15 tribes. Glynllifon (his seat) continued to be that of his de- sccndents, till of late years, when Fran¬ ces, daughter and heiress of John Glynn, esq , bestowed it, with her person, on Thomas Wynn, esq., of Bodtian, grand¬ father to lord Newborough. From Cil¬ myn is descended, sir Stephen Glynn, of Hawarden, bart., the Glynns of Londo and Nanlle, the Lloyds of Maes y porth, and the Hugheses of Bodrwyn. Cam Madryn, near Nefyn, is a specimen of the original british castle. The houses of the common people are mean, and the district is in an unimproved state. The land is excellent for grazing, being water¬ ed by a thousand little rills. It is nearly destitute of trees, and neglected for the sake of the herring fishery. Brynudol, situated on the side of a hill, commands avast view of aflatwoodless track, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains. The llt'i/l hills, Boduon, and the vast Carn mad¬ ryn rise in the foreground; and beyond these soars all Snowdonia, to the most remote mountains in the county of Meri¬ oneth, or rather Mcireonydd. Hence descended into an extensive flat; reached Borlh dyn Llyn, a fine bay, guarded on the w. by a narrow head-land, jutting lar in¬ to the sea; on part of it are the remains of strong entrenchments. Separated from this bay by a small headland, is that of Nefyn : and near it a small town of the same name contnbutary to Caernarvon, bestowed on Nigel de Lohareyn by Ed¬ ward the black prince, and made a free borough, with a hall, lie also gave it a grant of 2 lairs annually, and a market on Sunday. Here Edward held his triumph on the conquest oi Wales in 1284, 3nd in imitation of Arthur, held a round table, with a dance and tournaments: the con¬ course of nobility and gentry that assem¬ bled here on this occasion was prodig¬ ious. Ascend a considerable way up the side of the high lull, and alter a space of level ground, visited Nant y Grvrtheryn, or Voi tigern’s valley,an immense hollow, to which Vortigern is said to have fled front the rage of his subjects, excited by his in¬ viting the Saxons into Britain, and where the monks inform us, he and his castle were consumed by lightning. Imagina¬ tion cannot frame a more secluded retreat. Just above the sea is a high and verdant mount; the sides marked with 8 promi¬ nent ribs, from top to bottom. Till the beginning of the 17th century, a tumulus was here, called Bedd Cvprtheyrn. The inhabitants of the parish dug into the carn aud found a stone coflin, containing the bones of a tall man. Emerged into a bwlch, between two summits of the Eifl mountains ; a range, with sugar-loaf points, making a most distinguished fig, ure from various and distant parts of the country. They separate Llyn from thq 423 CRICCEATH. CRICKIIOWEL. 424 hundred of ArTon, and jut into the sea near Nanty Gtvrtheryn. Across this hol¬ low, from one summit of the Eifl. to the other, extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a wall. Upon the Eifl is a perfect and magnificent british post, called Tre’r Caeri, or the town of the fortresses. The accessible side is defended by 3 walls. The facings of the 2 upper walls are very entire. The whole is almost fillecfvwith cells. De¬ scended from this mount and ascended Moel gam guxocli, a hill of a conic form, upon the summit of which is a prodigious heap of stones, once a large tower, called by the country people Arffedoged y Gow- res, or the apron full of stor.es flung down by the giantess. Mr. Pennant saw from the Eifl several other lesser eminences fortified in a similar manner. He men¬ tions also Cam Madryn, the hill of Bodu- an, above Nefyn, covered with similar cells; Moel ben Tivrch, between Tre’r Caeri and Penmorfa; Castell Gwgan, re¬ markable for a small circular intrench- ment; Pen y Gaer, on the other side of the pass which leads from Arfon to Llyn ; all which make it probable that this coun¬ try was the retreat of multitudes of Brit¬ ons, to escape the first fury of the Saxons. Descended to the village and church of Llan Aethaiearn. Near it is a fine well, once reputed for it's sanctity. Continu¬ ed descending : on the right are the high conic hills of Gem goch and Gem ddu, the extremity of the long chain which extends obliquely from Snowdon, beginning at Talmignedd. Reach Clynog vazvr, seat¬ ed in a small grove near the shore, upon a plain, near the foot of the hills, remark¬ ed as being the place where Beuno (the son of a nobleman of Powis-land) settled in 616, and raised, as superstition says, st. Winifred to life. The church is the most magnificent structure of it’s kind in North Wales, built in form of a cross ; the length from e. to w. is about 138 feet, from v. to s. 70. Thechancel windows were adorn¬ ed with the pictures of Beuno and Wini¬ fred, but since have been altered to three whole length saints. Adjoining to the church is the chapel of St. Beuno. The passage to it is a narrow vault covered with great flat stones. In the midst is the tomb of the saint. Votaries to this saint are dipped in a neighbouring well, andthen laid upon the tomb, where they remain all night. Mr. Pennant says, that he saw upon the tomb a feather-bed, up¬ on which a poor paralytic from Merioneth¬ shire had lain all night. Those who are curious in druidic anti¬ quities, may see an uncommon cromlech on the farm of Baclncen, about Jm, from this place. The distance from Clyn- nog to Caernarvon is 10m., upon a con¬ tinual plain, the road excellent. Cross the Llyfni, a rapid stream flowing out of Llyn Nanlle. Upon the isthmus of Llyf¬ ni, opposite the house of Lleiar, there is said to be a strong camp. Called Carre g y Dinas. About 3m, turn to the 1., to visit DirJAsDiNLLE, avast mount of grav¬ el and sand, upon the verge of a great marsh, on the shore. A large area com¬ prehends the summit, surrounded by an amazing agger, apparently formed by the earth scoped out of the summit. Within are remains of foundations of buildings, of an oblong form, constructed with earth and round stones, and in one part is a tu¬ mulus. On the outside of the agger, there is a very deep ditch, with anoth¬ er high rampart. The regular entrance is at one end ; on the other, the ground slopes to the sea, and is quite open. Continue upon a turnpike-road cross the Gwrfttt, at Pont Neicydd, which flows from Llyn Cwellyn ; and, soon after, cross the Seiont, and reach Caernarvon. To Beddgelart, 10 miles, Bingley. — Caernarvon, 27 miles, Pennant. From Brecon, 14 miles, Malkin; Wyndham; Manby. - Abergavenny, 6 miles, Warner. -Llantliony Abbey, 7 miles, Skrine. CRICKHOWEL is situated at the s-e. extremity of Breconshire, deriving it’s name from a british fortress about 2m. n-n-e. of the town, through which the road leads from Brecon to Abergavenny. The place does not include any relic of antiq¬ uity, and the houses appear of late erec¬ tion. It is nominally a borough. A bai¬ liff is appointed annually. The lord of the manor holds his courts leet, and courts baron in the Town-hall, which is situated in the middle of High-street, adjoining the Brecon Turnpike road; sometimes it is used as a temporary confinement for fel¬ ons, and beneath it the market is held twice a week ; i. e. on Thursday and Sat- 425 CRICKHOWEL. 426 urday. The fairs are Jan. 1, May 12, Aug. 31. In 1801 this town contained 126 houses and 566 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated upon a gentle declivi¬ ty, at the bottom of which runs the river Usk, where it is crossed by a miserable bridge of 14 arches. Many of the poorer inhabitants are employed in spinning yarn, ofwhich the best flannel is manufactured. This place was highly in repute for goat’s whey, and much resorted to by valetu¬ dinarians, the air being highly esteemed for it’s salubrity. Coals, and all the nec¬ essaries of life are cheap, and in great plenty. The river abounds with trout, and the neighbouring hills with game, particularly grouse. The Church was formerly larger, 2 side ailes having been taken down in 1765, and the materials disposed of. It is now cruciform, con¬ sisting of a chancel, naive, 2 transepts, and a shingled spire, containing 5 bells in the centre. The rood-loft still remains and is used as a belfry. The s. transept is called the Rumsey chapel, the N.Gwern- vale chapel. These Chantries were orig¬ inally designed for offering up prayers for the souls of departed founders and their families, and endowed for the mainte¬ nance of the priest. Their use was dis¬ solved by Edward 6. Modern alterations have deprived the nave of all distinguish¬ ing marks of antiquity, a lancet win¬ dow of 3 lights in the w. end only except¬ ed. The font bears the date 1668. Un¬ der a low arch in the s. wall of the chan¬ cel is a mutilated figure of a knight in mail armour. Opposite, under a similar arch in the n. wall, is another of a female. The openings to the graves were from without. On the n. side of the chancel is a large altar monument of black and white marble, inclosed within iron rails, supporting an effigies of alabaster, of sir John Herbert, of Dan y Castell, knight, and his lady Joan. He died in 1666. At the e. end of this monument are the fig¬ ures of a man, the head broken off, habit¬ ed as a sergeant at law, and a female, both kneeling, intended for serjeant Lc- hunt and his wife; the former died in 1703, the latter in 1694, Among other inscriptions the following merits atten¬ tion on account of it’s classic elegance. *’ M. S. Matise, Henrici Williams, Armi- geri, uxoris dileciissimae, feminse, pias, pudic* bcnevols, amicissimae fidieq. in- tactas, e tenebris in lucum, emigravit, Jan. die 19mo, anno Salutis humanae 1786, an¬ no aetatis suae 42. Levitts fit patientia quicquid corrigere est nefas.” The ancient custom of holding, what is called a Pylgain or Plygain (the break of day or early morning) is still observed here. Very early on Chrismas-day the church is illuminated and public prayers are read attended with carol singing. Bourne de¬ duces it’s origin from an imitation of the Gloria in cxcelsis, sung by the angels ov¬ er the fields of Bethlehem. Thcbrit- ish remain whence this village derives it’s name, called Craighywel or Howel’s rock, is about 2m. due n. from Crickhow- el. It’s form is an irregular triangle. An agger of stones surrounds the area, which is 170 yards by 80 wide. It is externally defended by a very deep ditch, cut out of the solid rock, and a'high mound upon the lower side is nearly precipitous to¬ wards the vale, and has no entrance but from the n., whence a steep road called the Cefnfford or the ridgeway, commu¬ nicates with the Disgzvlfa mountain, or look out, a continuation of that great chain called the black mountains of Talgarth and the Hatterell-hills. This strong hold was anciently called Caer Crugiatt, or the rocky encampment, and in the neighbour¬ hood of YBegwns, or the Beacons. Some attribute this fortress to Howel up Rhys, prince of Gwent, who made war with the lord of Brecon, for the lands of Ystrady w and Ewyas, which, by right were Hy- wel’s, but he was compelled to give up all the lands above Crickhowcl, and this probably was his frontier entrenchment. His short life was a continued struggle for a small portion of his father’s posses¬ sions, from which he was unfortunately often obliged to fly. The only remains of the Castle of Crickhowel are a tower upon the s-e. angle, and a high artificial mount, the site of the keep or dungeon. The building with it’s bayley occupied a space of 2 a. 1r. 14p. The whole precinct within the walls, now called the castle- meadows (anciently the orchard) was 8 acres. There are no copyhold ten¬ ures in the hundred of Crickhowel; the lands are either freehold, or held by life leases under the duke of Bctyjfort. In the third year of Edward the 4th, lord Her¬ bert had great privileges appertaining to his possessions here. Dr. Croxall, 427 CRIGKIlOWEL. 428 author of the “Fair Circassian,” Morals to the Fables of Esop, &c., built the house at Gwernvdle, and occasionally re¬ sided there. He died in 1751, and left Gwernvale to a very distant relation, a rars. Bailis of Hercioid, who conveyed it to her mete, the wife of mr. John New¬ by, from whom it was purchased by mr. Everest, who built the present elegant mansion ; the original house it occupied by a tenant. The soil of this neigh¬ bourhood is sandy, and requires more rain than that upon the banks of the Wye, but the climate here is materially milder than that of Brecon, and vegetation is more forward in the spring. In looking from the town towards Llanwyse, luxuriant pastures appear intersected by water, with the bold hills in Llangynidr and Cwmdu in the back, ground; and the landscape from Ty yn y wlaJ, or Gwernvale towards Llangattoc is exceedingly fine. Mr. Manby says, “ At a little distance from the extremity of the town and rath¬ er out of the road, are the remains of an ancient castle, called by some Alisbi/ Cas¬ tle. In Glendwr’s rebellion, the king of England entrusted this castle to John Pouncafort; the keep is somewhat form¬ ed like that of CaerdifF, elevated upon an artificial eminence. Upon the mountain called Carno, a short distance hence was fought the battle between Elhelbald , and the force of Glamorgan, in 728v The town has a mean appearance; but the surrounding country is picturesque and beautiful beyond description, and the sides of the opposite hills are thickly stud¬ ded with seats and cottages. Among the former, those of Hotchcs, esq., late¬ ly possessed by Admirtil Cell; Captain Fredericks; and - Everest, esq., are the most elegant and advantageously situ¬ ated. The seat of the last mentioned gentleman is excellently designed, and charmingly situated, the proprietor of which possesses an exquisite taste in drawing, and has some fine performances of his own, as well as others, by the most eminent masters. Of Admiral Cell, dr. Mavor, who travelled in 1705, gives the following account, “ He was a tail, robust figure, in whose air resolution was marked, but who affected so little of the consequence, which is borrowed from ex¬ ternals, that he might have passed for a welsh farmer. Fishing being his favour¬ ite amusement, his round hat was bound with hooks and lines, and the whole of his dress set fashion at defiance, borrow¬ ing nothing from the uniform of his pro¬ fession. Tho’ advanced in years, he seemed to possess health and spirits, and by his ludicrous observations on the tour in which we were engaged, kept us in a roar of laughter. Tho’ some of the exple¬ tives of language were too apt to fall from his lips, when he was in good humour, there was neither malignity nor bitterness in his heart; and we heard many anec¬ dotes of his charitable disposition which would have done honour to an ampler fortune. In a word, he was a very wor¬ thy character, loved by his friends even for his singularities, and venerated by the poor, to whom he was a liberal benefac¬ tor.” Sir William Otiseley's romantic cot¬ tage on the Llangattock side should not be overlooked. Neartheresidenceof this ori¬ ental scholar, are some natural caverns of considerable extent. Much iron ore is dug from the bowels of the mountains to the 1. of Crickhowel, which is either man¬ ufactured into pigs upon the spot, or con¬ veyed to other destinations by rail and tram-way s. Large villages in consequence have arisen in places once unvisiled and almost inaccessible. During the sum¬ mer of 1806, sir Richard Hoare, sirWm. Ouseley, and some other gentlemen, pro¬ ceeded to explore a monument of antiq¬ uity situated upon a mountain above the village of Llangattock, consisting of a cairn or large heap of stones, forming a tumuli which has generally been suppos¬ ed to cover the ashes of military chieftains and to mark the spot on which they fell. In removing the stones, several workmen were employed for many hours; at length when they had wrought down to the foundation of the centre of the tumulus, which was nearly upon a level with the surface of the mountain, they discovered a square coffin, or cist, about 3 feet long and broad, formed of 4 upright stones, 1 below, serving as a bottom, and a large flat one at top, as a lid or cover ; on re¬ moving this cover, the cist, or coffin, ap¬ peared nearly empty ; a few small stones, and a little fine earth, or sand, being all that it contained. Of the bones, which, without doubt, had once been deposited in it, no vestiges could be found; yet there is not any reason to imagine that 29 CRICKIIOWEL. 43 0 iis cairn had been disturbed. Anolher, vithin a short distance, bore evident narks of having been examined several ears ago. “From thebadaccommoda- lon at the only Inn at Crickhowel (the !ear) strangers must have an unfavoura- de opinion of the place, unless they can ispense with comfort, and feast the eye >nly on enchanting scenery_E. I. Spence. Jo goat’s whey, as is commonly expect- d, is now to be had in this neighbour- ood, nor are there any harpers. The ills abound with game, particularly rouse. The market here is indifferently ittended, and provisions are often sent for 3 Abergavenny. The neighbourhood is enteel, consisting of many ancient and espectable families. Miss Spence and ter companion, met with lodgings at Pen- -droe, which she describes as “ a fairy >alace of delights, the sweetest cottage in he world.”—Summer Excursions, v. 1, p. 15. An immense number of persons ire employed in iron-works, late mr. Ken- lall’s, a few miles distant from Crickhow- :1. The adjoining mountain supplies both :oal and iron-stone, the former is carried 3y asses in sacks, and sold as low as Is. each sack. The rate of land in this leighbourhood near the water side is 20s, and the high grounds 10 or 12 shillings, {per acre. In moving towards Llan¬ gollen, we enter another valley different from the vale of Crucis. It's beauties are merely sylvan. It’s sides are little more than easy swelling banks, variously brok¬ en. At the bottom, runs the Dee. There is nothing striking from one end to the other; but it is varied into a pleasing combination of parts. About l^m. E. of Crickhowel is Llangeney, or rather Llangenau, or St. Cenau’s. The patron¬ ess of this church was daughter of Braga, nus, prince of Breconshire. According to Crcssey, this sainted lady was solicited by many nobles on the score of love, whom she utterly rejected, having conse¬ crated her virginity to the Lord by a per¬ petual vow. In consequence of this measure, she determined to forsake her native place, and find out some desert where she might devote herself to con¬ templation. Directing, therefore, her journey beyond Severn, and meeting with a woody spot, she requested the prince of that country that she might be permitted to serve God in that solitude. He com¬ plied with her request, but observed that the place so swarmed with serpents, that neither man nor beast could inhabit it- She replied, that God would destroy the serpents. It is further said, that “ The holy virgin, prostrating herself to God, obtained of him to change the serpents and vipers into stones, and, to this day, the stones in that region do resemble the windings of serpents.” Camden, who evidently was not an infidel, says that the place is called Keynsham, between Bath and Bristol, where abundance of that fos¬ sil termed Cornu ammonis is frequently dug up. The situation of the original chapel or oratory is marked by a small bell, used to call the neighbouring audi¬ ence to prayers. It was dug up upon a farm called Pen y daren. The bell is in the possession of the rev. H. T. Payne. Near this spot is Fynnon Genau, or the Well of St. Cenau, or Keyne, said to pos¬ sess many excellent medical qualities, with this wonderful effect moreover, that if a new married couple, or one of them, approached, the first who drank of the water, obtained the government of the house for life. This has given rise to an odd story. A countryman meeting atrav- cller who was inquisitive, he related to him the particulars of the virtues of this water. “ Arc you married?” said the trav¬ eller. “ Yes, sir, truly,” replied the countryman. “ Then I warrant you took care to be early enough at the well. - ' “Yes,” said he, “so I intended, for I hastened rapidly to it, as soon as the mar- iage ceremony was over, where, having taken a hearty dose, I returned and found my wife in the church porch, in a state the most tranquil; but guess my disap¬ pointment, when she told me she had taken some of the water of St. Keyne in her pocket to church. Thus overwitted in the outset, I slunk quietly home with my deary !” The wake is held on St. Curig’s day in June, annually. The Church is built close to the river Gwynne, at the bottom of a narrow deep valley. Near the village is a mill, for making wrap¬ ping papers. At Llangruyne, close upon the bank of the Usk, is an iron forge, con¬ ducted by Fothergill, Monkhouse, and others of the Sirhowy company in Mon¬ mouthshire, whence they bring their cok¬ ing coal and pig iron, which is hammered nto bars, and taken by land to Newport. 431 CRICKHOWEL. 432 The road to Hay lies through Graeme < talc. There is also a village called Llan Dair, of no peculiar interest, near the foot of an ascending pile of hills. At the distance of ‘2m., a narrow horse-path leads to the village and ruins of Tretower, both of which are highly picturesque. The road next winds along the side of a hill, overlooking the valley before-mentioned. The church and village of St. Michael Cwm Du are at the head of it, with Bwlch and Talgarth Beacon overtopping them. This parish commands much fertility of soil, beauty of situation, and habitual comforts of rural retirement. The latter is indeed a most favoured village. The trav- veller will find the crossing of the Tal¬ garth Beacon laborious, but a sudden turn on the summit displays a most grand pan- aromic view. Llynsyvaddon or Langor’s- pool, immediately underneath, produces a singular effect. The other principal landmarks are the ridge of black, moun¬ tains, s. of Brecknock, closing up the cor¬ ner of the view ; the villages ofTredws- tan and Talgarth in the bottom ; the un¬ dulating line of the Wye beyond, with Bruinllys castle on the Llyvenni; while the champaign part of Radnorshire stretch¬ es due n. as far as the eye will reach. On the summit of the next hill is Dinas Castle, now nearly level with the ground. There are some traces here of a subter¬ raneous passage. “ On descending from these haunts of mountain sheep, and an¬ cient seats of unsociable and distrustful barons, the traveller,” says Mr. Malkin ; (for here the compiler must avail himself of his author’s own expressive and ani¬ mated sentences) “ arrives suddenly at a spot the most incongruous and unexpect¬ ed that can be conceived in these simple regions. He finds himself translated at once to the Paragon, Prospect Place, Par¬ adise Row, Mount Pleasant,or some such supreme court of finery, foppery, and fol¬ ly as occurs within a circle of 5m. round London: a space which comprehends most of the architectural absurdities, and most of the horticultural deformities, to which a vitiated imagination has ever giv¬ en birth. Yet does Trevecca seem, by combination, to have outdone them all. Here a gothic arch ! there a Corinthian capital! Towers, battlements and basti¬ ons 1 peacocks cut in box, and lions hack¬ ed in holly 1 And who is it that has thus deluged his native country with bad taste ? Is it a nabob, an inn-keeper, or a dancing- master, who, having contrived to raise a fortune by one of those trades, which oft¬ en prosper where better fail, prudently determines to record the event, and raise a triumphal monument on the site of his honest father’s humble cottage ? Nay, verily : it was a preacher of the gospel, professedly of the strictest persuasion and most mortified habits, namely Howcl Har¬ ris, born on the spot. He died, leaving all his estates to a common stock, for maintaining a neighbourhood, which he ! had collected during his life. [See page 200 and 202.] The methodists in Wales appear the most infatuated of this sectary, i suffering their imaginations totally to ov¬ ercome their reason. The jumping mode of worship found it’s champion in Mr. Williams, in a pamphlet by his adherents. He published welsh hymns, and in 1761, a work called Golwg ar Deyrnas Crist. He died in 1776. The sect at present gaining ground in Wales, are the Wesley- ans. The Baptists, Presbyterians,andUni- tarians, have also succeeded in detaching great numbers from the established chuich. This evil originates either in the ignorance or laziness of the clergy. “ It must be allowed that the majority of mankind are mostly affected by externals. It is not the matter of a discourse, but the manner of it which makes an impression on the sens¬ es. No wonder then, that the languid de¬ votions of our modern clergy do not ex¬ cite the practice of true religion and mo¬ rality. It is principally owing to this cause that many of their flocks turn apos¬ tates and stray in search of those pastors whose lives are either a real, or an affected comment on the animated doctrines which they teach ; while others forsake all ecclesiastical guidance whatever, and laugh at religion as a ceremony at once political and stupid. Those who possess much sensibility become methodists, oth¬ ers more philosophic, become infidels and sceptics.” Bruinlly’s Castle is a little way to the 1. of the high road, on the bank of the river Llyvenni, between Tredws- tan and Talgarth. The village of Talgarth is pleasantly situated and rather neat. On the road to BRECOv.mr. Warner no¬ tices that about 5m. from the town, in the hedge, on the left hand, is a stone pillar, mentioned by Camden as having upon it It ill flOt join 2th m nit ?( 5 u D &! ? 433 CRICK HOW EL. 434 the following inscription; “N- filius Victorini.” Time has, however, obliter¬ ated all the letters except “ Victor.” The rapid Honddy descends in a torrent from the hills, and unites with the Usk, just before the latter passes under the stately arches of the bridge at Brecon. On the s. rises the hill of Canthriff, clothed from it’s summit to it’s base with wood ; while, in another quarter, Van, the mon¬ arch ofbrcconian mountains, exalts it’s 2 majestic summits, with pre-eminent dig¬ nity. On the Great Road to Brecon occurs Pontybrynert, Im. 'if., a little further on ther. is Tretwr Castle; to Batch, New-Inn, 3m. 3f. (One m. on the 1. lies Buckland. house, Thynnc Howe Gwynn, esq ; and on the opposite side the Usk river is Mucs- maa-r, G. Lewis, esq. A road on the r - to Hay, 14gm.) The village of Llansan- fracd and Church, 2Jm.; Skethrog and House, John Jones, esq., l|m.j Llanham- log and Church, lm 3f. (on 1. T. Harcourt Powell, esq.; Millbank, Jm., Brecon, 2|m., amounting to 13m. 7f. On the road to Brecon, a naked hill on the r. has the appearance of a truncat- , ed cone: upon it’s summit is an ancient encampment. In front, the hills arc nu- . mcrous and confused, some of them cul¬ tivated to the very tops, and others are naked and precipitous. Mr. Everest’s house stands about £m. from Crickhowel on the r., about midway upon the side of the hill. The green hill of Myatli next opens, from which the landscape is beau¬ tiful and varied. In this track the turnep husbandry has long been introduced. It often has been doubted whether those ancient remains called Crom lechs were in¬ tended to commemorate heroic exploits, as sepulchral monuments, or for the pur¬ poses of religious worship. With a desire of making some discovery relating to this subject the very fine cromlech situated about §m. from Crickhowel immediately on the left hand side of this road was ex¬ amined in the year 1804, by sir Richard Hoare, sir William Ouseley, the late Ad¬ miral Gell, the rev. — Payne, mr. Jones, the historian of Breconshire, and sev¬ eral others. It consisted of a flat stone, about 14 feet long, 1§ feet thick, and from 5 to 8 feet broad, resting on 4 upright stones. A team of horses was procured to remove the flat stone. The space of ground which it had covered was then dug into and carefully examined. The bones of some animal, and fragments of charcoal, were found near the surface, probably thrown there by travellers, who had kindled the fire and prepared a repast. At the depth of 6 feet, the workmen reached the native virgin earth, and the digging was discontinued. Hence it may be inferred that this cromlech was not in¬ tended as a sepulchral monument. There was immediately behind this spot a circle of upright stones, resembling those at the heads of graves in church yards. In pro¬ ceeding, the CivmJdw hills appear. Make a digression about £m. from the road to the old castle of Tretowcr, which stands in a retired spot on the r. This interesting ruin is much less visited than more obtru¬ sive but less beautiful objects. In the a- rea grows the Atropa belladona, Cyno- glossum officinale, Hyoscyamus niger, several species of the Polygonum, Adian- thum capillus veneris, and Parietaria of¬ ficinalis. A farm house, and appendages are formed out of some of the eastern walls. Ascend the Batch hills, upon the brow of which stands a public house; and, crossing the ascent, catch a view of Llangor’s pool, a fine sheet of water, bending in a semicircular direction along the base of one of the hills on the r., and extending about 3m. in a rich and exten¬ sive vale. It abounds with pike, perch, and trout. Tradition says, that a large ci¬ ty was swallowed up here by an earth¬ quake. On the 1. the Buckland hills ov¬ ertopped by the highest point of the Bea¬ cons near Brecon, present their green un¬ dulating fronts. Several handsome seats enliven the fore ground, particularly Biicklancl-housc, an elegant fabric, delight¬ fully situated upon a knoll, on the left of the Usk ; Maesmaur, on the other side of the river; and Tallylyn, adjoining Llan¬ gor’s pool. The New Inn at the village of Batch is a comfortable house, and the people who belong it are very obliging, and deserving of encouragement. In this part of Breckonshire, fowls sold in the summer of 1805 at 2s. a couple, but so much is the beverage of tea in use, that butter sold at Is Id. per pound. Trout, 64 1 a pound ; beef and mutton 84. and veal from 54 to 64. Arable land averaged 20s an acre. Large farms were uncommon. They ran at from 20! to 1001. a year. 435 CRICKIIOWEL. Hence, few are rich, but many indepen¬ dent, or above want, and the poor few. Advancing, the Brecon hills open in va¬ rious fantastic shapes, exhibiting several sinuosities and basins upon their sides, their summits truncated and abrupt. Pass Uansanfraed, the Church of which village has a singular kind of cupola tower. From this spot the Usk appears in great beauty ; and Buekland- house, the seat of—GWynne, esq., with it’s accompaniments, presents a very charming residence. The Usk now flows beside the road the greatest part of the distance to Brecon. It’s banks do not possess the bold features of the Wye ; and it is more rapid and incapable of navigation. This defect is, however, supplied by the Brecon canal which ac¬ companies it’s progress, and in one place is conveyed over it upon a series of brick arches. The road from Crickhowel to Brecon is in general excellent, but at the distance of a mile from the latter, it ap¬ proaches so near the canal as to be dan¬ gerous without a fence. To Hay, 18 miles, Malkin. — Brecon, 14miles, Warner; Skrine. — Abergavenny, 6 miles, Wyndliam; Manby. From Ruthin, 10§ miles, Bingley. - Llangollen, 2 miles, Pennant; Evans; Warner. - Corwen, 10 miles, Skrine. -St. Asaphs, by way of Denbigh and Ru¬ thin, 23§ miles, Gilpin. CRUCIS ABBEY, and VALE CRU- CIS. This vale has been pronounced by several travellers to be one of the most beautifully secluded situations in the kingdom. It is surrounded by towering mountains and abrupt rocks, covered at their bottoms with wood and verdure. Here are the venerable remains of Llan Egwest, or Valle Crucis Abbey, situated in the centre of a small verdant meadow, at the foot of Bron-vatvr, a high hill in the township of Maesyr-Yehen, and 2m. s-w. f Llangollen. From the road at a little distance, the fine gothic w. end, embow¬ ered in trees, (and backed by the mountain, on the summit of which stands the rem¬ nants of Castell Dinas Bran) produces a scene finely picturesque. This abbey is indebted for it’s name to the cross or pil¬ lar, which is in a meadow adjoining, next to the second mile-stone from Llangollen, CRUCIS ABBEY. 436 called the Pillar of Eliseg. It appears to have been erected in memory of Eliseg father of Brochmail, prince of Powys, by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson, the same who was defeated in 607 at the battle of Chester. It was once 12 feet long, but being thrown down and broken* it’s upper part is only left, which is 7 feet in length. The owner of the land caused this part to be placed on it’s pedestal, in 1779- The beginning of the ancient in¬ scription, as copied by mr.Edward Llwyd, ran thus, “ Concenn filius Cateli, Cateli filius Brochmail, Brochmail, filius Eliseg, Eliseg filius Cnoillaine, Concenn itaque pronepos Eliseg edificavit hunc lapidem proavo suo Eliseg.” This ancient inscrip¬ tion is now illegible. The proprietor of the land added thereto the following. “Quod hujus veteris monumenti super- est Diu ex oculis remotum et neglectum tandem restituit I. Lloyd de Trevor Hall. a. d. 1779. The tumulus on which the pillar stands was opened some years back, and there appeared the remains of some bones, which had been plaeed be¬ tween broad flat stones, the usual mode of interment in ancient times. This abbey was a house of Cistercians, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and found¬ ed by Madoc ap GryfFydd Maelor, lord of Dinas Bran, or Bromfield, about the year 1200. Three rows of groined arches, on single round pillars, support the dormito¬ ry, now a hay-loft, approached by steps from without. Part of the chimney in one of the bed-chambers is a relic of a sepulchral mouument, with this broken inscription; Hie jacet .... arvrvi. The floors are remarkably thick, and part¬ ly supported by rows of gothic arches. The ruins of the Church and part of the Abbey still remain. The church was built cruciform, in several styles of architec¬ ture ; and furnishes a specimen of the or¬ namental gothic of the 13th century. The length of the abbey church is 180 feet, the nave 31, the side isles 13. A few of the arches are pure gothic, but those which support the tower, and sev¬ eral of the doors are mixed and ornament¬ al. The e. end is in the most ancient style, where the windows consist of long narrow slips sharply pointed at top. The w. gabel has a large window with 3 lan¬ cets; and underneath is an arched doorway. Above is a marigold window, of elegant 438 437 CRUCIS fret-work, with this inscription, “ a. d... ada m...d n s...fecit hoc opus, pace be¬ ats quiescat. Amen.” and under, the mu¬ tilated date, m. d . The pilasters which support the internal arches end in capitals of elegant foliage; and the mould¬ ings of the arches are highly ornamental. In the n. transept is a chapel with 2 arch¬ es, and near it a double benetier, or ves- el for holy water. Adjoining the church is the abbey ; to which the apartments of the abbot were contiguous. The front of the abbey was uncommonly grand. A large window, highly ornamented with stone tracery, which reached from the roof to the ground, is still visible, with 3 long lancets; and over them 2 others, with remarkable pilasters dropping from them. Within are the marks wherestood a small narrow stair case. This dormi¬ tory supported by three rows of groined arches, on single round pillars, is now converted into a hay-loft, and approached by steps from without. The cloister is vaulted, and supported by rows of low pillars; now divided into apartments, which are appropriated for cattle; a farm¬ er occupying part of it as a dwelling- house. The area of the church is over¬ grown with tall ash-trees. Plants. Scandix odorata grows among the trees. Atropa belladona, in rough places about the abbey. Returning from this place to Llangol¬ len Castle, Dinas Bran may be most con¬ veniently visited. [See Llangollen.] Tracing the wooded banks'of the Dee from Vale Crucis, mr. Skrine advanced towards the fine gothic bridge to Llan¬ gollen, beautifully situated above the southern bank of the river, and almost surrounded by the impending ridge of the Berwyn mountains. From the Pillar of Eliseg, there are 2 ways toRuthin; one along an excellent turnpike-road; the other is adapted only for the horseman or pedestrian, but far preferable on account of the romantic views. Mr. Pennant returned by Valle Crucis, and alter winding along a steep, midway to the old castle, descended, and then crossing the rill of the Bran, arrived n the valley of Gliseg; which is long and tarrow, bounded on the right by aston- shing precipices, divided into number- ess parallel strata of white limestone, yith some vast yew-trees; and on the ABBEY. left by smooth and verdant hills, bord¬ ered by pretty woods. One of the princi¬ pal of the Gliseg rocks is named Craig Arthur; another at the end of the vale call¬ ed Craig y Forwyn, is bold, precipitous, and terminating in a vast natural column. Mr. Pennant says, “This valley is chief¬ ly inhabited (happily) by an independent race of warm and wealthy yeomanry, un- devonred, as yet, by the great men of the country.” In order to get into the high road, he pursued a path up a steep ascent to the 1.; and about mid-way visited a house, once the residence of Edward Da¬ vies, a low partizan on the side of Crom¬ well. After continuing an ascent for a short space further, he reached the pass called llwlch y Rhiw Velen, and fell again into the great road. From the height a- bove this place is a very extensive view of the hundred of Yale; after some de¬ scent, crossed the Alyn. Here a rill a- rises to water the vales of Mold, Hope, &c. Leave, a little to the 1., a place called llafoil yr Abad, the site of a country seat, belonging the abbot of Vale Crucis. Close to the road side lies Tommeny R/wd. "Jiydd, once a fortress known by the name Castle of Yule, built by Owen Gwynedd, about the year 1148. It consists of a vast artificial mount, with another still loftier, near one end, is the keep of the place. These are surrounded with a great foss and rampart; and have only a single en¬ trance. At present there is not a relic of the superstructure, which was probably formed of wood, as was customary with several ancient nations. Hence mr. Pen¬ nant crossed the country for about 2m., to the village of Llandegla, noted for it’s fair of black cattle. About 200 yards from the church, in a quillet called Gwern Deg - la, rises a small spring, under the tutelage of st. Tecla, virgin and martyr; to which great ceremonials and superstition attach. Hence he visited the house of Bodidris, a large and ancient place, belonging the family of Vaughan of Corscgcdon. Bod¬ idris takes it’s name from Idris, son of Llewellyn Aurdorchog, the ancient lord of Yale. It stands in two counties, Flint¬ shire and Denbighshire. I.lanarmon is a village, the church of which is dedicated to st.Germanus, bishop of Auxerre; who, with st. Lupus, contributed to gain the Victoria Alleluiatica over the Piets and Saxons near Mold. Sepulchral Tumuli 439 CRUCIS are very frequent in this parish. “ I was present," says mr. Pennant, “at the op¬ ening of one, composed of loose stones and earth, covered with a layer of soil a- bout 2 feet thick, and over that, a coat of verdant turf. In the course of our search, were discovered, towards the middle of the tumulus, several urns made of sun¬ burnt clay, of a reddish colour on the out¬ side, black within, being stained with the ashes they contained. They were placed with the mouth downwards, upon a flat stone ; upon each was another, to pre¬ serve them from being broken by the weight above. Mixed with the loose stones, were numerous fragments of bones; such as parts of the thigh-bones, the arm bones, and even a skull. These had escaped the effects of the fire of the funeral pile, and were deposited about the urns, which contained the residuum of the corpse that had been reduced to pure ashes.” “ So many kinds of inter¬ ment occur indifferent parts of the world, and even in this island, that historic re¬ search endeavours in vain to affix some period to each form, and to attribute each to some-distinct people. British, roman, saxon, and danish inhabitants have each a demand upon the enquirer, and a criteri¬ on of distinction cannot he found. The tumuli vary both in their structure and form. Some consist of heaps of naked Stones, or of earth only, as those in Scot¬ land, Cornwall, and some parts of Wales. Others are composed like those in this parish, of stones and earth intermixed, and covered with sods. Some are oblong, others conical; and both, either having their baseslevel with the adjacent ground, or surrounded by trenches. The inclosed subjects generally consist of cinders, frag¬ ments of bones, and ashes preserved in urns. The latter are also formed of vari¬ ous materials, and greatly diverisfied in their shape. Position, which might be supposed some kind of clue, merely seems to increase the labyrinthic maze. Many are found with the mouthsupwards, resting upon flat stones, and covered with the same kind at top ; or, as in the pres¬ ent instance, with the mouths downward, similarly guarded.” Beauties of Eng. vol. 7, p. 551. Near the village of Llanarmon, upon a vast mount, beside the margin of the river, are the foundations of a square fort, called Tommcn y Vunlra, ABBEY. 440 and near it a large cavern, the roof of which is of considerable height, but con¬ tracting as you proceed, it appears inex- plorable. The country now grows circumscribed by the approximation of the hills. On one side, in the township of Tre’r Yris are rocky ledges of limestone, rich in lead-ore. On the 1. are the Chv- ydian hills, which divide this country from the vale of Clwyd. There is a pass through these hills, lying between the summits of Moel Eithinen, and Mod Fenlli, called Bwlch Agricla, or the pass of Agricola, probably the road of that chieftain to Mona. Moel Fenlli , or Bcn- lli’s hill has upon it a strong british post, guarded by dikes and fosses. In 1770, when mr. Pennant passed Llanferres, the church was rebuilding, chiefly by the bounty of mrs. Catherine Jones of Clom- mendy. This place gave birth to doctor John Davies, an almost universal scholar, but distinguished chiefly as a lexicograph¬ er and divine, he was the son of a weav¬ er in this parish, and received his educa. tion at Ruthin school, under dr. Parry, which he completed at Oxford. Enter¬ ing into orders, he was presented to the livng of Mallwyd, in Merionethshire. He wrote a curious welsh grammar in latin. He assisted bishop Parry, to whom he was chaplain, in revising Morgan’s bible, which is the version now used in the welsh churches. His great perform¬ ance was his two-fold Cambrian Diction¬ ary, in welsh and latin, and latin and welsh. A similar work had been begun by Thomas ap William, ofTrefriew, near Llanrwst, which on his death being left unfinished, Davies, at the request of the Gwydir family completed and published, in 1632. He erected 3 bridges in the vi¬ cinity of Mallwyd, at his own expense. He died, 1644. It is evident the Ro¬ mans have been resident in these parts, from the number of coins found in this neighbourhood, particularly denarii. Crossed the turnpike-road between Mold and Ruthin ; which, after a long ascent, passed Bwlch Pen y Barras, a spot extreme¬ ly worthy of the traveller's attention, on account of the beautiful view over the vale of Clwyd. Mr. Pennant’s route led him hence eastward along the great road, into the county of Flint. Within 2m. of Mold, he examined, long, the charming rale which opens with exquisite beauty 441 CRUCIS ABBEY. DENBIGH. 442 from Vron, the seat of the ingenious Rich¬ ard Williams, esq. Cambria here lays a- side her majestic air, and condescends to assume a gentler form. This was ancient¬ ly called Yslrad Alun, or the dale of the Alun, a comat in the cantref y Rhiw; in¬ habited by a hardy race, at perpetual feud with the men of Cheshire on one side, and the men of Yale upon the other. A delicious composition is here presented of fine rich land bounded by gentle ris¬ ings, watered by the Alun, and varied with a pretty town and fine church in the middle; with numerous seats, groves, and well cultivated farms. Among the former appears conspicuous, Leesteood, the creation of sir George Wynne, rising palace-likq, along a fine slope upon the s. side of the vale, surrounded by woods and lawns; a sad mausoleum of fugacious wealth. The distant view includes the estuaries of the Dee, Weever, and Mer¬ sey ; the hills of Cheshire, and the more remote range of those of Shropshire, Staf¬ fordshire, Derbyshire, Yorkshire, Lan¬ cashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland. Hence to the town of Mold is a pleasant ride. To I.langollen, 3 miles, Bingley; Skrine; Gilpin. Back to Llangollen, Wyndham; Lvans; Warner. To Mold, 20 miles, Pennant. From St. Asaph, 5$ miles, Pennant; Bingley; Hutton. - Holywell, 14 miles. Aikin. - Rutliin,8 miles, Warner; Gilpin. - Llanrwst, 18 miles, Wyndham. - Bassingwerk Abbey, 15 miles, Skrine. - Conwy, 15 miles, Gilpin. DENBIGH, the county townof Denbigh¬ shire, is situated near the centre of Dyff- ryn Clvvyd, upon a rocky declivity, form¬ ing a prominent point in a tract of the country called Rhos, whence it's ancient british name was Castell Cled fryn yn Rhos. The only authentic accounts of this place commence with the foundation of it’s castle. On the death of Llewelyn , his brother David, considered himself the legal sovereign of N Wales; and sum¬ moned the welsh chieftains, as subjects to meet him at Dinbcch, (a small hill fort¬ ress) for thepurpose of holding a consulta¬ tion respecting their common interests. Desirous of vindicating the injured rights •of the country, he commenced hostilities against the English; which terminated in his capture and imprisonment, together with the total subjugation of the Welsh. Edward bestowed it on Henry Lacy earl of Lincoln, who built the castle and shel¬ tered the town by a wall. After the death of this nobleman, the fortress and lordship came to Thomas earl of Lancaster , who married Alicia, his daughter. The estate, upon the attainder of Lancaster, was given to Hugh Despencer, the minion of Edward 2 ; on the execution of Des¬ pencer, the lordship and castle reverted again to the crown. Edward 3 gave them to Roger Mortimer, earl of March, on whose attainder and death they were granted to William Montacute, earl of Salis¬ bury : they were afterwards possessed by the grandson of the earl of March, his attainder being reversed in the reign of Richard 2. In process of time the estate becoming again by marriage the property of the crown, was granted by queen Eli. zabeth in 15C3 to her favourite Dudley, earl of Leicester. In 1645 Charles 1 stopped here after his retreat from Ches¬ ter, and from this circumstance a tower containing the rooms which he occupied still retains the name Siambr y brenkin, or the royal apartment. The following year the castle was in the possession of the royalists under the government of col. William Salisbury. It was besieged by Gen¬ eral Mytlon ; by an investment made ou the 16th of July, but the garrison did not surrender till the 3d of November follow¬ ing. It was probably dismantled on changing possessors and after the restora¬ tion of Charles 2, was blown up with gunpowder, and rendered completely un¬ tenable. This fortress appears to have been a superb-structure, formed by grouting; i. e. two walls, occupying the extremities of the intended thickness, were first built in the ordinary manner, with a vacancy between them, into which was poured a mixture of hot mortar and rough stones of all sizes, which on cooling consolidat¬ ed into a solid mass as hard as stone. The grand entrance is through a magnificent pointed archway, formerly flanked by two large octagonal towers, now in ruins. In an ornamented niche over the centre of the arch, is still remaining tolerably entire, the statue of the founder; and over a gateway, that stood on the 1. ofthir. 443 DENBIGH. 414 was another of his wife. These ruins cover the summit of the craggy hill, one side of which is boldly precipitous. The prospects through the broken arches, and frittering walls, is extensive, and peculi- arly fine. The vale of Clwyd is present¬ ed in rich variety, decorated with villas, and terminated by a line of hills, from the rock of Disserth to Moel Fenlli. The Town of Denbigh has been compar¬ ed to Stirling in Scotland. Crowned with a majestic ruin, the town viewed from a distant part of the country assumes an im¬ posing aspect. The Castle is seen with the greatest advantage from the road to Ruthin. The place was originally inclos¬ ed with walls, and fortified with one square and three round towers; that con¬ nected it with the castle. The entrance was by two gates ; one called the Ex¬ chequer gate, in which was held the roy¬ al baronial courts; and the other the Burgesses gate, in which affairs relative to municipal business was transacted. In one of these precincts stands St. Hilary’s, a chapel formerly belonging the garrison, and now appropriated to a place of wor¬ ship. Not far distant are the remains of a Church, 170 feet in length, and 71 broad. The structure, as appears from a date up¬ on a foundation stone, was begun in 1579, under the directions of Dudley, earl of Leicester, who, it is said desisted from prosecuting the work, from dislike to the Welsh, who resisted his insufferable ty¬ ranny. A sum is said to have been after¬ wards collected for the purpose of com¬ pleting the plan; but the earl of Essex passing through the place, on his ill-fated expedition to Ireland, obtained a loan of the money which he fail ed to re-emburse; the building in consequence was left un¬ finished, and the effects of time have changed it to a ruin. A Monastic Institution is said by Speed to have been formed here, by John de Sunimore, in the year 1399. But from an authentic docu¬ ment upon a mutilated ancient brass, found some years since, it appears to have been a Priory for Carmelites, or white fri¬ ars, founded long anterior to that date, by John Salusbury, of Lleveni, who died in 1289. The conventual church, in which the family of the founder were in¬ terred up to the era of the reformation, is all that remains of this building ; and ev¬ en this has been sacrilegiously desecrated into a barn. The New Town, stand¬ ing below the rocky ridge, gradually a- rose from the old. This, extending down the slope of the hill, and some way round the base, consists principally of one street, with a few good houses; but the collateral streets, or rather lanes, are very irregular and ill-built. In 1801, the population was 2391, contained in 534 houses. It’s manufactures in gloves and shoes are very considerable. Den¬ bigh was made a borough in the time of Edward 1. The corporation consists of 2 aldermen, who are justices, 2 bailiffs, 25 capital burgesses, a recorder, 2 coroners, and other subordinate officers. It sends one member to parliament in conjunction with Holt and Ruthin. This town has undergone many improvements of late years. The Town-Hall has been hand¬ somely stuccoed. A Dispensary has been established, and is supported by a very liberal subscription among the inhabit- itants and neighbouring families. Aphy- sician (dr. Cummins) gives advice gratis, and an apothecary is engaged at a liberal salary. In approaching the base of Denbigh-hill, by Henulan-street, turn o- ver a field, to the r. by an ascending path, and from the higher ground may be re¬ cognized, in a fragment of the ruined wall of the castle, on the 1., a striking likeness, in profile, of his majesty George the 2d ; the forehead, eyes, brow, nose, mouth, chin, and even the shape of his wig and shoulders, are exactly characteristic. The Black-bull, and Crown arc the prin¬ cipal Inns. A Farmer’s Club is es¬ tablished here, who meet monthly to re¬ port progress for reciprocal information. The Parish Church, St. Marcelles, is at Whitechurch, about a mile distant, on the road to Ruthin. In the porch, upon a small piece of brass are the effigies of Richard Middleton, of Gwaynynog, in a kneeling posture. He was governor of Denbigh castle, in the reigns of Edward 6, Mary, and Elizabeth. Also Jane, his wife. Behind, in relievo, are nine sons, and be¬ hind the wife 7 daughters. Several of this gentleman’s sons were men of distin¬ guished characters, particularly the 3d named William, a sea captain and an emi¬ nent poet, he received his education at Ox¬ ford. Thomas, the 4th son, became lord mayor of London, and founder of the fam- ly of Chirk-castle. The speculative ge- 445 DENBIGH. 44 nius of Hugh, his 6th son appeared at an early age in attempts to search for coal in the neighbourhood of his native place, but, not succeeding, he removed to Lon¬ don, where he became a citizen and gold¬ smith. His success in trade enabled him to farm the principal lead and silver mines in Cardiganshire, at 400/. a year; yet so profitable were these works that from one mine yielding nearly 100 ounces of silver from a ton of lead, he derived a clear profit of 2000/. per month. This immense revenue he expended in carrying into ex¬ ecution a plan of supplying the city of London with water. The proposal was made in 1608, and the work was complet¬ ed in 5 years. The first issue of the wa¬ ters from the head at Islington was hon¬ oured by the presence of king James I, with his court, and corporation of Lon¬ don. He received the honour of knight¬ hood, and afterwards of baronetage, but his property was exhausted by the under¬ taking and the ingratitude of the public allowed him to be reduced to the profes¬ sion of a surveyor. Mortifying as was ,the result of finishing the New River, his ardent spirit for public undertakings caused him to engage in reclaiming 2000 acres from the sea, in the isle of Wight by embanking. He died in 1631, and his family declined into narrow circumstanc¬ es, while the property which he had cre¬ ated rose to an unexampled value. He left a number of New River shares to the poor of the Goldsmith’s Company, yet, in aftertimes, his descendant and represent¬ ative, when a widow, was debarred from benefiting by the charity of her ancestor, because her husband had omitted to take up his freedom as a goldsmith 1 Mr. Bushel, the ingenious servant of sir Fran¬ cis Bacon was the successor of sir Hugh Middleton at the mines. A mural monu¬ ment in memory of that learned antiquary Humphrey Llvcyd, in a supplicating pos¬ ture, and Spanish costume. He graduated at Oxford, and adopted the medical pro¬ fession. He represented in parliament the borough of Denbigh, his native place, where he prematurely died in 1568, aged II. He published “ Commentariolum Britannioe,” an Epistle, “ De Mona Dru- dum insula, antiquitati suae restituta,” tnd various other tracts. To Ruthin, mr. Pennant passed to (iwaenynog, a house 2m. distant, fronted by majestic oaks. The finely wooded dingles belonging to the demesne, were judiciously cut into walks by the owner John Myddleton, esq. Gilpin says, this place is well worth visiting, and remarks that, “ The pleasing irregularity of this sweet recess, the several glades with which itopens,andthe sequestered scenes with which these glades are often closed; the river proportioned to the valley, the side-screens Variously adorned with wood, and the path judiciously conducted through the whole, are all very beauti¬ ful. From the higher grounds the castle of Denbigh makes a good object.”—Ob¬ servations, p. 109. He then visited Henllan, the parish church of these parts ; remarkable for the schism between church and steeple; the first having re¬ treated into the bottom, the last-maintain- ed it’s station upon the top of the hill. The church was covered with shingles, a species of roof almost obsolete. Near this place grows in barren pastures, Aira cristata; in pastures upon lime rocks, A- ira pracox ; among the lime rocks, Poa rigida; upon the hill, Trifolium glomera- tum ; in a dry field between Tynewydd and Eriviatt, Thymus acinos; upon the first common, ascending the hill from Denbigh, Spergula subulata. Not far distant, on the banks of the brook Meir- chion, are the remains of a seat of Mcruil- dydd ap Meirchion, or Meracli y Meirch, lord of lsdulas. The chapel now standing, used as a farm-house. Hence after a ride of a few miles, reached Duffryn Ailed, a narrow vale bounded by high hills, and ornamented by a modern mag¬ nificent seat, built by mrs. Meyiic. At the head of the valley stand the vil¬ lage and church of Llansannon. Stow says, that in this parish there is a circular plain, cut out of the main rock, upon the side of a stony hill, with some 24 seats, unequal, called by the country people, Arthur’s round table. Mr. Pennant sup¬ poses that such places as this were de¬ signed for chivalrous feats in tilts and tournaments, aud that the circular area, surrounded by a high mound, a ditch in the inside, and 2 entrances one opposite the other, were for the knights to enter at and make their onset. On his way to Gwytherin, celebrated for receiving the remains of st. Winefrede after her second death, mr. Pennant descended a very steep 447 DENBIGH. 448 wooded dell, in the township of Penared, to visit the gloomy cataract of Llynyr ogo, where the ^lled tumbles into a horrible black cavern,overshaded by oaks. Some¬ what higher is another, exposed to full day, falling from avast height, and divid¬ ing the naked glen. Llyn Alet, the small lake from which the river flows, lies at a short distance, amid black and heathy mountains. In this pool grow Chara flexilis, Eriophorum vaginatum, E. poly- stachon; in mossy bogs near, Viola pa- lustrisin a morassy flat about a mile n-e. of the pool, called Gors y Casseg,or mare’s bog, and also w. of the pool, An¬ dromeda polifolia. The little village and church of Gwytherin stand upon a bank, at the head of a small vale, near the rise of the Elwy. In the church is shewn the box in which the reliques of st. Winefrede were kept before theirremovalto Shrews¬ bury. Here is also an ancient grave¬ stone, with a flowery cross and chalice. On the n. side stand 4 rude uprightstones. On Pennant’s return to Gwaenyog, he followed the course of the Elwy, by Hav- odynos, the seat of Howel Lloyd, esq., by the church and village of Llangerniew; by Garthcwin, the seat of Robert Wynn, esq., commanding a most lovely view of a fertile little valley, bounded by hills, and covered by hanging woods. Thence by Llanvair Dothacarn, a village and church, at a short distance above the con¬ flux of the Elwy and Alet, In this parish was one of the residences of Hedd Mol- rnjnog, descended from Roderic the great, king of all Wales. A large moat called Yr Hen Llys, marks the place. From Gwaenynog he passed beneath Denbigh Castle, visited Llanrhaiader, a village in the middle of the vale, the Church of which is still remarkable for an east win¬ dow of very entire painted glass, express¬ ing the root of Jesse. Here is a ponder¬ ous monument to the memory of Mau¬ rice Jones, esq., of Llanrhaider. In the church-yard is a tomb of a gentleman who choose to build his fame on a long genealogy. From an eminence to the n-w., called Cuder Gwladus, or Gwladus’s chair, is a beautiful view of the vale be¬ tween Denbigh and Ruthin. At the foot of this rising is Cfynon Ddyfnog, a fine spring, inclosed in an angular wall, deco¬ rated with small human figures. Contig¬ uous are some comfortable Alms-houses for eight widows, founded by mrs. Jones, Llanrhaider, in 1729. Each of them has her garden, and 2s. per week. On the road to Ruthin, upon an estate of sir William Bagot, are some uncommonly fine chesnut trees; a species introduced by the Romans. Ruthin is entered under Porth y Dwr, it’s only remaining gate. “ Of all the beautiful scenes in this neighbourhood,” says mr. Gilpin, “ the valley ofJCyffrtdin pleased me most. It lies about 5 miles west of Denbigh, upon the banks of the Elwy. The high grounds which lead into it, form also the screen of another valley which unites with Cyf- fredin. This valley too is adorned with it’s stream, and with a variety of wood and lawn. A little bridge at the bottom formed a point, whence is a view of both vallies. But the views both above and below the bridge are the most interesting. That part of this beautiful valley, which winds down the Elwy, is formed by a lofty screen of rock on the 1., in which the prin¬ cipal feature is a cave; and by a high woody bank upon the right; but the river taking a short turn, this part of the valley soon winds out of sight, The other part, which runs up the stream, continues at least a mile before the eye ; both it’s screens arc woody, but not so lofty as those below the bridge.” Mr. Gilpin pursued his route hence up the Elwy, as far as Pont-nczcydd, which afforded some beautiful views. He afterwards quitted Denbigh, and met the Elwy at Pontralcoch, where a single arch is thrown over the river, amid a spa¬ cious amphitheatre of woody hills. At Plus coch, not far distant from where the Elwy joins the Clwyd, the river dividing into several channels, forms a little plain into 2 or 3 woody islands, which opening and intercepting the view by turns, throughthe trees, made an agreeable shifu ing scene. Approaching the end of the vale of Clwyd, we see the last hills which compose it’s screens; particularly those on the r., sinking into the extended plain of Rhyddlan-marsh. The tower of St. Asaph was almost singly conspicuous, and a little to the 1., the castle of Rhydd- lan. The marsh spread far and wide in every direction, beyond which appeared the sea. Nearer the close of the vale the tower and castle became more conspicu¬ ous, and formed with a bridge of several arches, an agreeable combination. St; I J9 DENBIGH. 450 taphwas wholly omitted in this route, Qfydd. No monument appears to mark her urning into the great road to Ireland, and interment, tho’her prolific abilities hava lounting higher grounds, the wood of a given herthe honourable distinction, Mam )fty bank contrasted well with the dis- Cymrel, mother of Wales. An excellent § nt flat. Leaving the confines of Rhydd- length of this lady is in the collection of n-marsh, and travelling above the sea Lluesog Hall, dated 1568, attributed by Lu- pon the high grounds, mr. Gilpin met cas de Heer, from which an engraving ap- peasant, who in answer to his enquiries pears in Yorke’s Royal Tribes. In the lid that “ round yon cliff runs a narrow time of Charles 2, Lleweni descended to >ad; it will save youtwo miles riding. The the Cottuns, from which family it was pur- aople of this country commonly pass that chased by the lion. Thomas Fitzmaurice ay,but in some places it has fallen in, and uncle to the marquis of Landsdown, bro- rather dangerous.” Dangerous it ap- ther to the earl of Shelburne, and father of eared indeed; a mere shelf, winding round the late noble possessor. Mr. Fitzmaurice frightful precipice and hanging over the added some buildings, turned them into 22 . Just at the opening of this path into bleaching houses, and lived with the af- le great road, a fellow who had just pas- fectedhumilityof a tradesman and the pomp 3d, came in view. He was upon horse- of a lord. It is said he usually travelled in aek, between 2 panniers, driving before his coach and six to Chester, and when im a cow, and singing a welsh ballad, there stood behind a counter selling cloth. Iabit makes us what we arc; it was not Lleweni-hall lies in a situation very dif- he road that was frightful, it was imagina- ferent from that of Gwaenynog, which ion only that took alarm. The name of stands upon the edge of the vale, and has he place is Penmanbach. Deserting the the advantage of the sinuous parts of one reat road, and turning towards the sea- of the hills, which compose it, while oast, the shores as far as I./undidno came in Lleweni, with a screen of wood behind it, 'iew. A wild mountainous country, 2 or lies at the bottom of the vale, and has a 1 beautiful bays, and hercand there a good large portion of it in prospect, of which nountain scene, was discoverable, but Denbigh castle is the grand lcature. The lothing greatly striking. This promontory land is mostly rich meadow. The house vas in ancient times famous for producing contains a fine gothic hall, suitably fitted he peregrine falcon, the swiftest, the U P as an armoury, and a drawing-room nost courageous, and the most docile of decorated with gobelin tapestry in the '.he hawk species. highest preservation, representing the On the road to Holywell, across the chase of the bear, wolf, if c. A fine sem- yale of Clwyd, by way of Caerwys, pass 'circular brick-building, placed too near in ther. Plasynygreen Plas, \±m. Enter the house, is a blcachery, now let to a Man- :he grounds of the Lleweny estate, ^m. at Chester manufacturer. The Fermeornee present the seat of Michael Hughes, esq. °f mrs. Lloyd, near the handsome bridge In 720 it was possessed by Marchmeithian, °f Pontriffith, 1m. is an attractive spot, one of the 15 tribes, or ancient nobility of both as an elegant retirement, and as a of N. Wales. An English family named specimen of natural simplicity in design, Salusbury settled here sometime before the and tastefulness in execution. Bodfari, a reign of Henry 3 ; sir John Salusbury was little to the 1. on the r. Grove, lm. Maes- first husband of Catherine Tuder, alias Ca- mynnan, lm. Caerwys, lm. Seeacon- tlierinc Bcram. Her second was sir Rich- tinuation of the road to Holywell at ard Clough. Being handed to church by Caerwys. Maurice Wynn, of Gwyder, he whisper- To Llanrwst, reach Henllan, 2m. hav- ed a wish of bestowing his hand upon ing passed on the 1. The Lodge, and Tyddyn her, rather than give her to his friend, uchuf. Rhydyr Arian, 4gm- across the The fair widow politely declined the pro- Alet. On the r. Dyffryn Alct to Llan- posa!, but assured him in case of survivor- jantto«,2m. A dcscendent of Moluinng i s ship he might depend on being her third ; said to have peopled this country with the and she afterwards verified the assurance. .Llwyds, (in english Greys) Bleyddyn Fy- Her fourth, was Edward Thelwall, esq. of chan having assumed the surname of Llwyd, J’las y Ward, whom she left a widower, who erected a bridge over the mountain Aug. 27, 1591, and was buried at Uatt- current. Another of this race, having been 451 DENBIGH. 452 dissatisfied with the conduct of his tenantry, the Clwyd ; leave Cefn, Cwygfair, anc in a paroxysm of fury, chased them like beasts of prey from his estates, and con¬ verted the whole into a forest. “ There is in the parish of Llansannan, in the side of a stronge hillc, a place, wher ther be 24 holes or places in aroundel, for men to sit in, but som lesse and som bigge. cutte out of the mayne rok by mannes hand; and there children and young men dimming to seke their cattele used to sitte and play. Sum caulle it the Rounde Table ” Le- land, vol, 5, p. 59. This extraordinary work (which has been previously noticed at 446) is said to be allusive to an institu tion of knighthood by Arthur. Pass a small lake on the 1. lm. (leave the road to Gwylherin, 2|m. on the I.) Pont carreg ■newydd, across the Cladwin river, lm. cross a brook, at Ty Mr, l|m. and another at Hendre, Jm. Another tributary to the Cladwin intersects the road several times in the course of 2m. Llanrwst, 5m. On the way to Ceric y Druidion, passthroughacomparatively populous dis¬ trict, leaving the direct road a little beyond Segrwyd to Nantllyn, 4§ m. In this parish was born David Samwell, a person of con siderable talents. He produced some ele gant specimens of poetry, but entering into the medical profession, he engaged as sur¬ geon in the royal navy, sailed with captain Cook, andwas a witness of that celebrated navigator’s death, a circumstantial account of which he wrote for the Biographia Bri- tannica. His own death occurred in the year 1799. From Nantllyn, the road pro¬ ceeds directly to the neighbourhood of the lakes, Llyn Alwen, Llyn A/et, and Llyn Moelfre and forward to Capel Voelas ; (on ther. to Llansannon, 5m.)on the 1.1m. fall into the Ceric y Druidion road, which makes an angle to the r. If this turn he not taken the traveller would be led to Cyfyliog 2^m. and further 4m. to Ruthin. Pursuing the Cerig y Druidion road, pass many brooks, to where the Bacham river is crossed, 3|m. continue with this stream on the 1. for I jm. when the road deviates from it to the r. at Rhcs ddu. To Emorgarrcg, 1 m. Cross the A liven at Pont Alwyn, lm. CerigyDruid- ion, 2m. To St. Asaph, on the 1. is Plas newydd, the seat of the carl of Uxbridge. Pen- caedv-green, l|m. (Tyko/ig on the r. pass the turnpike, Efynnonfuir, on the 1. cross Plas coch, on the 1.) Maeselwy, ljm. (or r. Llanerch.) This house is advantageouslj situated in a small but beautiful park, the lower part having it’s plantations reliever by a fine piece of water, and the uppei commanding an enchanting prospect along the vales, flanked by the clwydian hills It is now the seat of Daniel Leo, esq. A false taste has destroyed the venerable ole house, and metamorphosed it into a piece of a modern villa. Robert Davies, a na¬ turalist, and able antiquary, possessed Llanerch, in the latter part of the 17th century. He collected and left here 9 scarce treasure of Welsh manuscripts. PLANTS NEAR DENBIGH. About the castle, Festuca bromoides: in rough places, Ribes grossularia, anc R. uva crispa; and among the ruins, Erige- ron acre ; sides of banks near the town, Gentiana amarella; upon the top of a bushy hill on the n. side of the town, Lithospermum purpuro-coeruleum ; in hedges about Gam, Avena pubescens, and Adoxa moschatellina; in watery places, CEnanthe crocata; Garn dingle, Melica nutans ; in dry places, by the rivulet at the bottom of the glade, Saxifraga granulata; in a wet spot near the bottom, Carex strigosa ; near the ri¬ vulet, Veronica montana ; near a petrify¬ ing spring, by the side of a rivulet at the bottom of the dingle, Asplenium scolo- pendrium ; in the wood below Garn cop. pice, Senecio tenuifolius ; in the neigh, bourhood of Garn, Geranium rotundifoli- um ; upon the hill in front of Garn house, Trifolium glomeratum ; in Park Pierce, and in the Crest, Daphne laureola; in the wood close to Plas Newydd, Heleborus viridis; upon Garreg wen rocks, Rham- nus catharticus, Turritis hursuta ; on the w. side of Garreg wen rocks, Crataegus torminalis; shady places on the w. side, Lathraea squamaria; near the rivulet on the w. side, Carex pendula; at the bottom of a field called Gerddi, opposite the rocks, Carex pulicaris ; in pastures near Rhyd y Cilgwyn, 2 miles from Ruthin, Campanula glomerata; in dry pastures about Deunant, between Denbigh and Llansannon, Spergula subulata. By the Llyfni which runs from Llyniau Nantlle into the sea, about half way from Llandwrog to Clynog, grows the Pulmo- naria maritima. To Ruthin, 8 miles, Pennant; Wyndham; Gil¬ pin; Aikin; Hutton. — Holywell, 16 miles, Warner. — Caerwys, 10 miles, Wyndham’s 2d. Tour. — St. Asaph. 5 j nules, Skrine. Back to St. Asaph, Bindley. Back to St. Asaph, anc ’ ted the coast to Llan- didno, Gilpin. 1 4 53 DENBIGHSHIRE. 454 DENBIGHSHIRE, denominated in Welsh, Sir Dinbech at the time of the Roman invasion, was included in that part of Cambria occupied by the Ordovi- ces, who, according to Whittaker, ex ended their dominions over the wood- ands of the present Staffordshire, the Mains of East Cheshire, and the moun ainous parts of N. Wales. Under the mbordination of the Romans, this tract nade a part of Venedotia, one of the ninor partitions of the grand imperial livisions in the island denominated Bri- annia secunda, yet few are the vestiges hat remain which mark the footsteps of 'onquest. Siations and encampments as- iribable to the Romans, do not here occur. Holt has indeed been considered an out- >ost, or advanced work to the grand sta- ion Devana (Chester) ; but the site of the ortification lies in the parish of Farndon, ■'lintshire, upon the e side of the river. ■Vhen the island became a prey to more incivilized invaders, this country was nvolved in ravaging warfare and cruel >arbarities. The Cornavii, Coritani, Dobu- ii, and Cateullani, submitted to northern imbition, and combined under one usurp- :r, formed a large and powerful kingdom ‘n the Heptarchy. This part was named Mearchland, in Latin Mercia, from mearch, i limit or boundary, and was the most ex- ensive and formidable of the Saxon con- ederation. It was formed by Crida, about he year 586, enlarged by Pendn, and inder Peada, subjected to Christianity. Iffa, succeeded Elhelbald, by the popular roice. The Cymry suffered exceedingly rom the effects of his prowess. Curtailed >f their range upon the banks of the Se¬ vern and Wye, they made incursions into he Mercian territory, the Mercian mon¬ arch allied himself with other Saxon states, snd forcibly advanced into Wales. The Britons were unable to oppose this rombination of arms, and left the country tetween those distinguished rivers, and ’etreated to the mountains. The Saxons lid not pursue them but returned into Mercia. The Britons emboldened made resh and vexatious inroads. Ojfa, in or- ler to put an end to these incursions, ad¬ vanced with a powerful army, drove the Sritonsback, and approaching even to their .trong holds, demanded a peace upon his >wn terms. He peopled the district as ar as the Wye with Anglo-Saxons; and separated them from the Britons, by an im¬ mense ditch and rampart. This ditch call¬ ed Clawdd Offa, extended from the river Wye along the counties of Hereford and Radnor, in Montgomeryshire; from Pwll y piod, an alehouse on the road between Bishop’s-castle and Newtown : thence it passes n. near Mcllington-hall, where is an encampment called Caer-din ,by Brampton mill, where there is a mount; Limor-park, near Montgomery, Forden- heath, Nant-cribba, at the foot of an an¬ cient fortress, Leighlon-hall, and Buttington church. Here it is lost for 5m.; the channel of the Severn probably serving for that space as a continuation of the boundary. Just below the conflux of the Bele and the Severn, it appears again, and passes by the churches of Llandysilio and Llanymynech, to the edge of the limestone rock. From this place it runs by Tref y Clawdd, over the horse-course at Cefn y bwch, above Oswestry, then above Sellatyn ; whence it descends to the Ceiriog, and to G/yn, where there is a large breach, sup¬ posed to be the place of interment of the English, who fell in the battle of Craigwcn. It then goes by Chirk-castle, and below Cefn y went, crosses the Dee and the Ru- abon road, near PI as Madoc, forms part of the turnpike-road to Wrexham to Pcntre bychan, where there is a mount; then by Plus power to Adwy’r clawdd, near Minera; by Brymbo, crosses Cegidog river, and through a little valley upon the s. side of Bryn yorkyn mountain, to Coed talwrn, and Cae-dwn, a farm near Treyddin chapel, in the parish of Mold, (pointing towards the Clwydian hills ;) beyond which, no farther traces can be discovered. Mr. Pennant thought this rampart ended here, but it certainly passed in a s. direction through part of Radnorshire, in which county it may be traced near Knighton, proceeding through Herefordshire by Leintwardine and Brachy hill; when after skirting Monmouthshire, and entering Glocestershire, it terminates in the pa¬ rish of Tuldenham, nearly opposite to Chepstow. It is observable, says Pen¬ nant, that in all parts the ditch is upon the welsh side; and that there are many arti¬ ficial mounts, the sites of small forts, in many places along it’s course. A short interval of peace only succeeded the com¬ pletion of this rampart. The Welsh still alive to their injuries, secretly concerted 455 DENBIGHSHIRE. 456 a plan of revenge. They formed an alii- kinallt, and Pont-y-blew forge; and the Dee, ance with the kings of Sussex and Nor- below Kant y bela ; whence it passes thumberland, and made a breach in the through Wynnstay park, by another Pentre’r rampart during the night, passed the clawdd, or township on the ditch to boundary, at early dawn attacked the Erddig, where there was another strong Camp of Offa, in an unprepared state, and fort. From Erddig it passes above Wrex- fiut great numbers to the sword. The liam, near Melin Pulcston by Dolydd, Mercian monarch narrowly escaped with Rlaesgzeyn, Rhos-ddu croes-oneiras, mr. a small remnant of his army. Breathing Shakerley’s Gwersyllt: crosses the Alyn, daughter, he collected another army, de- and through the township of Llai, to Rhy- termined to risk a general engagement, din, in the county of Flint; above which The hostile parties met upon a plain near is Caer estyn, a British port: hence it runs the sea-coast, called Rhyddlan marsh, by Hope church, along the side of Molos- The battle was long and sanguinary, but dale, which it quits towards the lower at length victory declared in favour of the part, and turns to Mynydd Sychdyn, Mo- Saxons; the Welsh were terribly defeated, nachclog, near Northop by Nothop mills, with the loss of Caradoc, their valiant Bryn moel. Coed y llys, Kant y Flint, Cefn commander. The victor commanded the y coed, through the strand fields, near men and children to be massacred, saving Holywell to it’s termination below the only the females. Offa died soon after abbey of Basingwerk. The British this dreadful event, or else fell with Me- princes longandstrenuouslycontended for redith, prince of Pembroke. The Welsh the favorite possessions of their ancestors, yet continued to laugh at the tyrant’s nor did they yield till the powerful Edgar folly, despising his ineffectual toils and reduced the petty kingdoms of the hep- euccesses, and with renewed fury ravaged, tarchy, under one sovereignty. The both far and wide the adjacent English Norman period commenced with the sys- marches. Wat’s Dyke has frequently tern of subjugating this country, by pre- been confounded with that of Offa. Of viously parcelling it out, and granting the formation of this dyke, as to time or such parcels to various military advgn- occasion, no authentic information can be turers, who should acquire them by ne- found. It runs nearly in a direction with gociation or force. These territories were Offa’s, but at unequal distances, from 5 to be held in capite of the crown. This or 600 yards to 3m. The space interven- plan was vigorously pursued in the reigns ing between the two was considered free subsequent to the conquest, viz. William ground, where the Britons and Saxons Rufus, Henry 1, Stephen, Henry 2, Ri- might meet with safety for commercial chard 1, John, and especially under Hen- purposes. Wat's may be a corruption ry 3; but it was reserved for the first from gwaed, (blood) with the genitive Edwaid to sap the root of British indepen- sign ’s, added to the Saxon word dyke, dence, and by the principle of divide et may form the dyke of blood, allusive to impera, reduced the whole principality the sanguinary conflicts which have hap- under the english yoke. Denbigh- pened in it’s vicinity. A dyke and ram- shire is bounded on the n. by the Irish sea; part, similar in appearance, and not unlike on the n-e. by Flintshire, from which in name, runs through the counties of county if is partially separated on the e. Wilts and Somerset, called Wans dyke, by the river Dee ; on the s-e. by Shrop- perhaps from gwan, a perforation. shire, on the s. by Montgomeryshire and Wat’s dyke appears at Maesbury, near Merionethshire, and on the w. 'the river Oswestry, and terminates at the Dee, near Conwy, from it’s source to the sea, forms Basingwerk. The s. end of the line is a natural and reciprocal boundary, be- lost in morassy grounds; but was proba- tween this and Caernarvonshire, except bly continued to the river Severn. North- the hundred of Creuddyn, with a small wards, it’s course extended to Hen-ddinas, territory originally annexed to the abbey and by Pentre’r clawdd to Gobowen, the of Maenan, and still belonging to the lat- site of a small fort, called Bryn y castell, ter county. The shape is very irregular, in the parish of Whittington ; then crosses and the length and breadth consequently Prys-henlle common, in the parish of St. various. It’s extent from Llanwrst on the Martin ; goes over Ceiriug; between Bryn- river Conwy to Holton the Dee, measures 157 DENBIGHSHIRE. 458 }6m.; and across this line, from St. Asaph o Ysbytty Evan, 19m. : it’s narrowest breadth over the vale of Clwyd, from Llan- rynhavel to Denven, is but 9m. the circum¬ ference is about 170. The area has been :omputed to comprise 670 square miles. The county is subdivided into 6 cantrefs >r hundreds, viz. hdulas, haled, Ruthin, Yale, Brumfield, and Chirk, these include >ne borough, Denbigh, with the market- owns of Ruthin, Wrexham, Holt, Llan- jollen, and Llanrwst, and 57 parishes, .n 1801 it’s population amounted to 60,353 rersons, inhabiting 12.621 houses, of vhom 9,960 were employed in trades, tnd 21,104 in agriculture The w. part )f the counti abounds with hills, inter¬ spersed with several small lakes, whence ssue numerous streams. The n. part wears nearly similar features, except from Abergeley, along the sea-coast, the coun¬ try becomes depressed, and gradually sinks into the extensive plain of Morfa Rhyddlan. This district included in the hundred of Isdulas, appears as it did in the time of Leland, “ the worst parte of all Denbighland, and most baren.” From the mouth of the Clwyd, nearly to it’s source, a peculiarly fine tract of country accompanies both banks of that river, forming the Vale of Clwyd, stretching in length more than 20 m. and from 5 to 7 in breadth. The principal river of this county is the Clwyd; the Conwy and the Dec, as they form it’s extreme bounds, may be considered rivers of coparceny, rather than local. The C'eiriog rises on the w. side, and falls into the Dee near Chirk castle. The Alun commences near l.lan- degla, flows n. makes a circuitous route through Flintshire, almost surrounds the town of Mold, turns suddenly s. through Hopedale; having passed the village of Grcsford, re-enters the county, and joins the Dee a little below Holt. Except the portion of the Conwy from it’s mouth to near Llandogct, opposite Trefricw, Den¬ bighshire contains no navigable river, and tho’ a maritime county, has no sea-port or tolerable haven. The Elesmere Canal passes through the lower part of the county, but is not yet completed. A de¬ ficiency of water has occurred. The Frood branch is dry. A supply has how¬ ever been obtained from the Dee above Llangollen, which is conveyed by a col¬ lateral cut to near Pont Cyssyllte. The original feeders, tho’ vast reservoirs, have been found totally inadequate to furnish a sufficient quantity, during the summer months. The physiological charac¬ teristics of this county seem to have been neglected. In botany it however pos¬ sesses an ardent investigator in J. W. Griffith, esq. of Gam, near Denbigh, who has proved an able contributor to the English Botany of Sowcrby. Rich beds of lead, iron, and coal have been found in various places. Those parts of Bromfield and Yale, bordering upon Flint¬ shire, comprise a part of the mineral tract which passes in a n. direction through that county, to the estuary of the Dee. Southerly it enters below Mold, extends through the parishes of Llanferres, Llan- armon andLlandegla, whence it branches off to Minera, and terminates at the Glis- seg rocks, in the vicinity of Llangollen. Iron ore is dug upon the Ruabon hills, and adjacent parts of the county. At Bromba in the vicinity of Wrexham, ore of a pe¬ culiarly excellent quality is obtained, and several smelting furnaces in this neigh¬ bourhood, and near Pont Cyssyllte are worked with success. Near the latter a mine of sulphur has recently been dis¬ covered. The essential article of coal, is very abundant, especially in the E.part of the county. Slate of a durable quality, limestone, and stone for building are found in several places. Denbigh¬ shire has long had it's provincial board for encouraging the melioration of the soil, an Agricultural Society having been insti¬ tuted in the Vale of Clwyd; and another for 15 m. round Wrexham ; a shew of cattle and sheep is held annually atWynn- stay, patronised by sir Watkin Williams Wynne, bart. The climature in many parts of this county is very unfavourable. Upon some parts of the Hiraelhug hills no grain is sown but the hardy oat, of which whole fields may be seen, in some years, as green as a leak in the month of October. Yet grounds, judiciously laid out and planted, and soil well cultivated, have great influence in mollifying the rigour of the climate ; of this there is an instance in the vicinity of these very lulls, upon the rectoral glebe at Cerig y Druidion. The late rector, from the year 17S4 to 1799, by planting, draining, manuring, and tilling, has so counterbalanced tho elevation and severity of climature, that 459 DENBIGHSHIRE. he has raised abundant crops of corn, and has harvested them in season. The mail roads in this county are good, but many of the cross roads are bad. Coarse cloths, flannels made of country wool, and stockings, form the principal articles of manufacture. For the purposes of civil administration, Denbighshire is placed in the Chester circuit, and for ecclesiastic discipline is ranked in the province of Canterbury, partly in the diocese of Ban¬ gor, and partly in that of St. Asaph, the the deanry of Dyffryn Clwyd belonging to the former see. This borough gives the title of Earl to the noble family of Fielding, and Ruthin gives Baron to that of Yelverton. It returns 2 members to parliament, one, as knight of the shire; and the other as representative for the con¬ federated towns of Denbigh, Ruthin, and Holt. From MalKvyd, miles, Hutton; Warner. - Bala, 22 miles, Pennant; Evans. —— Machynlleth, 14 miles, Skrine. Back from Mallwyd, Pennant. DINAS MOWDDU, is pleasantly si¬ tuated at the junction of three vales, formed by ranges of lofty mountains, on the shelf of a rock beneath Craig y Dinas, on the banks of the Cerris, where it empties itself into the Dovy. Neither mr. Aikin nor mr. Bingley appear to have visited this place, yet it did not escape the diligent curiosity ofmr. Pennant, the rev. J. Evans, mr. Skrine and mr. Hut¬ ton; the last of whom describes his visit as follows. “Having understood that this place held a considerable eminence in the comparison of Welsh towns, and the property of the ancient family of Mit- ton ; that it was one of the five lordships in Wales which were independent man¬ ors, and exempted from tribute to the prince ; that it held a government within itself, consisting of a mayor and alderman, with all the magnificent insignia and ornamental trappings of a corporation, I wished to visit this favoured place, but my way did not lie through it. Being detained, however, at Mallwyd by the rain, and Dinas Mowddu distant only a mile and a half, I watched the opportunity of a fair gleam, left the company I had accidentally met at the inn, to their wine and their conversation, and stole a visit to DINAS MOWDDU. 46Q this important place. The situation of Dinas Mowddu is romantic, singular, and beautful, upon a small flat made by na¬ ture, and improved by art, on the de¬ clivity of a mountain prodigiously ele¬ vated, and nearly perpendicular, on the left descending to the town ; and on the right continuing the same steep down to the river Dovy, which washes it’s foot, The road winds round the hill in the shape of a bow, and the houses take the same curve. It appears to the observer, a town suspended upon the side of a mountain. Curiosity led me to count the bouses, which were 45. One of these, by far the best, is worth at a fair rent, perhaps 50 shillings per annum. In most of the houses I perceived that the inhabitants could not injure themselves by falling down stairs. Altho’ in England l appear¬ ed like other men, yet at Dinas Mowddu I stood single. The people eyed me as a phenomenon, with countenances mixed with fear and enquiry. Perhaps they took me for an inspector of taxes ; they could not take me for a window-peeper, for there were scarcely any to peep at, and the few I saw were in that shattered state which proved there was no glazier in the place. Many houses were totally without glass. Ambition here seems wholly ex- i eluded. The dress of the inhabitants changes not. It is made for use, not show. That of the softer sex, I was told, is a flannel shift. I did not see the small¬ est degree of smartness in the apparel, even of the young females. I have rea¬ son to think their style of living is as plain as their dress, for a swelling in front, from luxury, is rarely seen. One of the curiosities I saw, was a goat feeding, much at ease, upon the ridge of a house. Perhaps the people within did not fare much better than the goat without. Re¬ turning, well pleased with my visit, I remarked to my landlord at Mallwyd, a civil intelligent man, that I could not con¬ ceive the whole property of the united inhabitants of this celebrated town ex¬ ceeded 600/. “I can tell you to a trifle,” said he, “ for I know every one of them w«ll.” After a short pause he replied, “ It does not exceed 240/. !” If care be the concomitant of wealth, these people must be happy; and their circumscribed style of existence seems to declare it. I saw neither a beggar nor a person in rags.” 61 DINAS MOWDDU. DINHAM. 462 The rev. J: Evans says, “ That this /as once a place of more consequence nan it’s present state indicates, cannot be enied; indeed the annals of Wales [vid. Varrington] notice it, as having been the eat of a chieftain ; and it’s vicinity the cene of feats of valour and barbarity, iut that it was ever a place endowed with 11 the privileges of a powerful corpora- ion, bearing the ensigns of majesty, and xhibiting the pomp and paraphernalia o( proud commercial city, is an idea almost ao extravagant to find admission in the egions of imagination.” Mr. Pennant ays, “ it is governed by a mayor, alder- nan, recorder, and several burgesses; hat the mayor tries criminals; afid the re- .order, in the absence of the lord, matters >f property not exceeding 40s. That .hey still preserve the insignia of power; ,he mace, standard measure, stocks, whipping-post, and the vag-vawr, or jreat fetter. But he does not say when, or by whom this charter was granted; nor how long it’s inhabitants have been thus enfranchised.” Gaining one of the sub¬ ordinate summits, mr. Skrine surveyed .with rapture tire vale he had before quit¬ ted, and the towering summits of Cader Idris. From this spot Dolgelley ap¬ peared to great advantage, with it’s high tower, and the gothic arches of it’s old bridge. Returning to Dinas Mowddu, Impenetrated into the recesses of those heights, in which the Dovey rises, and was gratified with a grand display of mountains, rocks, and torrents, with which nature has decorated this wild and romantic tract. He then re-entered Mont¬ gomeryshire at Mallwyd. On the road to Dolgelley, is a grand pass through the openings of the Cader chain ; which, comprehending the Arraus and the Arrenigs, forms nearly a right angle with the Ferwyn. It winds de¬ lightfully beside the rude mountain Craig y Gwyni, or the White Rock, which forms a lofty wall on the right; while that on the left is of various slopes, with here and there a miserable cottage peeping in the different directions of the cwms; the Cerris widely flowing over a rocky bed in the vale. Near the top of Craig y Gwyni, are some deserted lead mines. On the left is Bvilch Oer Ddrws, noted for having been one of the three places where, after the death of Glyndvvr, the principal in¬ habitants of several districts assembled to form compacts to enforce virtue and order, having recourse to legal oppression. From the lower ground, tho’ still ele¬ vated, appears Cader Idris, on the left, which had been before concealed by in¬ tervening masses. From this sovereign of mountains the lower subjects seem to retire from his feet. The road next de¬ scends to Dolgelley, which opens to view at the distance of a mile. The highroad passes with the river Craigwen on the r. a tributary to the Dovey, reach Craig y Pistyll on the 1. where cross the Maesglas river, l£m. further is a house on the r. called Pennant, where a tributary to the Craigwen is crossed, which runs upon the 1. from it’s source, at the distance of l^m. 3 miles from Pennant is a house called Tynystwll. lm. further cross a brook, on the r. of which, at a little distance, is Caerynwck. (At the distances of Jm. from each, cross two oilier small tributaries. On the 1. distant lm. lies Cuer sarn.) Dolcelle, 2§m. To Bala the road passes through Llan y Mowddy over Bwlch y gives, and down the hills of Bwlch y Pawl and Rhydy bant, along the south cast side of the lake of Bala. On the great road to Machynlleth, pass to Mallwyd, where is an inn, lm. 5f. Pass with the river Dovey on the r.; Tymawr and Dolasgelug, on the 1. and Abermynach and Abcrangcll on the r. Dol- yrorslluyn, lynhirus, Cumlline, Aberhiria- elh, to Cemmes, 4m. 5f. Pass Cemmes Bychan, Ppntardwymyn, Pcnyraig, Craft, and Pentre rhyd y mein goch, to Penegos, 5m. 5f. Machynlleth, lm. 5f. To Mallwyd, miles, Hutton; Skrine. — Dolgelley, 9 miles, F.vans. — Bala, I7j miles, Warner. — Llanvair, 20 miles. — Mallwyd and hack again; hence to Dolgelley, 9 miles, Pennant. — Welshpool, 27 miles. — Machynlledd, 14 miles. s-m /-/ /-y /a/wy/r/ y/y yy * /y yyyy /y From Caerwent, mile, Cox; Baiber. DINHAM, Monmouthshire, is a poor village, consisting of a few farm houses and cottages. It is with difhcuhy that the low remains of it’s Castle, obscured by trees, can be discovered. The site is on a gentle eminence near the borders of the 463 DINHAM. DISERTH. forest of Wentwood. In the neighbour¬ hood, this ruin is called the “ Old chapel.” Finding nothing in this place or in the way, to engage his attention, mr. Cox hastened back to Caerwent. Llanvair Castle is situated on a small rise about two miles from Caer¬ went, on the road to Usk. To Llanvair Castle, 2 miles, Barber. Back to Caerwent, 1§ mile, Cox. From Rhuddlan, 2| miles, Bingley. -Downing, 10 miles, Pennant. DISERTH, in Flintshire. The Church of this village stands in a romantic bottom, overshaded with several large yews. There are some good paintings in the e. window, and on the s. window of the chancel is inscribed, “ Sir John Conway, 1636.”, and on the porch, “ 1603. A. Reg. 45.” The yard contains some sin¬ gular tomb-stones; two in particular have a semicircular stone upon their tops. Also an ancient cross, adorned with wreaths, and another with some traces of a human figure, now placed as a stile. Upon the altar-tomb is a rude cross and sword. The castle called sometimes Gerri Castle, or Castell y Craig, stands on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, at the distance of half a mile from the village. It’s re¬ mains are trifling, consisting of a few shattered fragments only. There is hence a fine prospect of part of the vale of Clwyd. The time of the foundation of this castle is unknown. It was forti¬ fied by Henry 3, about 1241, and appears from Dugdale, to have been the property of the Earls of Chester; for he remarks, that when that family became extinct, Diserth and Diganwy castles were in 13 Henry 3, annexed to the crown. About 20 years afterwards they were both de¬ stroyed by Llewelyn ap Gryffydd. Mr. Bingley found the following plants upon the Castle-hill, growing plentifully. Veronica spicata, Cistus marifolius, Cis- tus helianthemum, Tbalictrum minus, Geranium sanguineum, Conyza squarrosa, Carduus marianus, Anthyllis vulneraria, and Saxifraga stellaris, among rocks, about Caunant mawr. In a field, a little to the s. is a ruinous building, called Siam- beriven, (the White Hall,) said to have been the house of sir Robert Pounderling, a valiant knight, who was the constable of the castle. Of this illustrious hero DOLBADERN CASTLE. 644 Leland relates the following story. Being famed for his valour, he was challenged at a tournament, by a gentleman of Wales, who in the combat struck out one of his eyes. Being afterwards, in the english court, he was requested to challenge him in return, but he wisely shewed that he had prudence as well as valour, for he declined a second combat, saying that he did not intend the Welshman to knock out his other eye. Moel Hiraddug, a British post, is stationed upon a very steep and rocky hill, to the s., with an immense agger of loose stones upon the accessible part. At a place called Marion, are long deep trenches, out of which minerals have been dug. On the summit of the hill is a great bed of beautiful red spar. Cwm Church is embosomed with hills, and fronts the vale of Clwyd. From the top of one of the hills which surround the vil¬ lage, issues a water forming a beautiful cascade, which rises from a small well, called Fynnon-Asa, or St. Asaph’s well, in a dingle in Cwm parish, distant one mile. The height of the cascade is 17 yards, concealed between two arches of the rock, behind which it has worn a passage. The surrounding country to Conwy is hilly but pleasant, and the road good. To St. Asaph, through Rhyddlan, 8 miles, Bing¬ ley. To Rhyddlan, 2,| miles, Pennant, To Abergeley, 8 miles. From Llanberis, 4 miles, Pennant. - Beddgelart, over Snowdon, 17 miles, War¬ ner. - Snowdon, Hutton; Gilpin. DOLBADERN CASTLE, is the only one that remains in all the narrow passes. It is constructed of the schistose stone of the country, and mortar made of marine shells. It stands between the two lakes of Llanberis, and 8 miles e. of Caernarvon. As it was impossible for an enemy to climb the chain of mountains, which are a guard to Caernarvonshire and Anglesea, and as there were five narrow passes, the Britons secured each with a castle : this was the central. What remains is a round turret only, it’s inner diameter 10 yards, and 25 high, which seems to have been the principal part, for it occupies the whole of a small round elevated rock. It 465 DOLBADERN CASTLE DOLCELLEY. 4(f(> Bppears to have consisted of 3 stories, exclusive of a vaulted basement, used as a dungeon; a few broken steps shew that the intercommunication was by a spiral stair-case. One of the bastions of Caer¬ narvon C3stle is nearly the size of this; it could not accommodate more than 16 men. The british race of kings acted on a small scale compared with the norman. It is called Castell Dolbadarn, or the castle of Padarn’s meadow, on account of having been erected on the verge of a piece of ground, called Padarn’s meadow, sup¬ posed to have been the place to which a holy recluse of that name retired. This castle is probably as ancient as the 6th cen¬ tury, being mentioned as then possessedby Maelgwn Gwynedd, prince of N. Wales, during his contention with the. Saxons. In this castle Owen Goch was confined for upwards of 20 years, for having joined in a rebellion against his brother, Llew¬ elyn ap Jorwerth, the last prince of Wales. In 1283, the earl of Pembroke, after a short resistance, took this fortress from the Welsh. It seems to have been long in ruins, for in Lcland’s time there was only a piece of a tower left. Half a miles, of the castle, at the termination of a deep glen, is a tremendous cataract or waterfall, called Caunanl mawr. This ledge of rock is more than 60 feet in height. A mountain torrent, from Cum Brwynog, rushes through a cleft in the superincumbent rock ; and alter issuing in a straight line for a few yards, it sud¬ denly takes a slanting direction, and rolls over a broad portion of the strata into the vale below. Near this castle grow Arundo colorata, Bryum alpinum. and Hymenophyllum tumbridgense, var. 0, fructifications upon naked footstalks,upon rocks. Nothing can exceed the beauty of this ruin as it appears from the lake; , the promontory on which it stands; it’s image reflected from the crystal waters, the lofty mountains on each side; the upper lake stretching to the church of Llanberis, with Snowdon in the back ground; while the waters rushing from the upper into the lower lake, form a fine natural canal. Llyn Peris, tho’ not of such large dimensions, is not less beau¬ tiful. It furnishes the botanist with Subulariaaquatica, Nymphsea alba, Alis- ma natans, Isoetes lacustris, Sparganium simplex, and S. natans. Somewhat short of l^m. from Dolba- dern Castle, close by the horse-path leading to Caernarvon, is aveiy old farm¬ house called Ty Du, the Black Houso, formerly the property of dr. Goodman, who was bishop of Glocester in the reign of Charles 1. Since this time the house has been the residence of Foulke Jones, another singular character, noted for un¬ common strength, who died about the year 1796, aged 57. To Llanberis, 4miles, Bingley; Evans; Hutton. — Caernarvon, 8 miles, Warner; Gilpin. Over Snowdon to Beddgelart. [See Snowdon.] To the summit of Snowdon, miles. From Dinas Mowddu, 9 miles, Pennant. - Barmouth, 10 miles, Bingley. - Towyti, 18 miles, Aikin. Back from Cader Idris, Aikin. From Dinas Mowddu, 9 miles, Evans. - Cader Idris, Warner. - Machynlleili, over Cader Idris, 21 miles, Warner; the direct road is 14 miles. - Barmouth, Warner’s 2d walk, 12 miles, the direct road. - Machynlleth,by Llyn trigrasenyn, 26 miles, Wyndham. - Fesliniog, ',8 miles. -Tan y Bwlch, 18 miles, Skrine. -- Maenlwrog, 17 miles. DOLGELLLY, (the dale ofthehazle), is the principal market town in Merion¬ ethshire, where the summer assizes are held. It is situated in a wide and fertile vale, upon the river Union, and surrounded on all sides by high, and, in many parts, wooded, mountains. The streets are irregular, and the houses mostly ill built. The Market-house is a low square build¬ ing, and the Town-hall is scarcely dis¬ tinguishable, It’s manufactory of WelsR flannels employs a great number of hands. The kind of woollen cloth called Gweu, or Webs, also occupies the inhabitants of this neighbourhood, Every little farmer makes webs, and almost every cottager has his loom. These webs run from 6 to 7 quarters wide, and 200 yards long. The manufacturers sell it from I to 3s. per yard. This article of manufactory was formerly carried to Liverpool or Shrewsbury markets, but agents now collect them on the spot. Formerly it was soldchiefly from the loom; but the streams have begun to resound with ful¬ ling-mills, and bleaching racks extend along the sides of the hills. The popu- 467 DOLGELLEY. 468 lation of this place in 1810, amounted to 2949 inhabitants, and 658 houses. The Church is a respectable edifice of lime¬ stone, having a handsome tower and large nave, built in the Grecian rather than Gothic style. The seats are forms, and the floor is paved with lime-stone flags, a circumstance uncommon in Wales. The ceiling is formed of boards. Within is an antique monument of an armed knight, with a dog at his feet, and a lion passant, guardant upon his shield, on which is inscribed, “ Hie jacet Maurice, Alius Ynyr Vychan.” It is recorded that Owen Glyndwr assembled his parliament at Dolgelley in 1404, when he formed an alliance with Charles king of France, which runs in the true royal style : as “ Owinus Dei gratia princeps Wallis;” and concludes “ Datum opud Dolguelli, 10 die mensis Mau mccc. quarto et principatus nostri quarto.” In the civil wars be¬ tween Charles 1 and his parliament, about 100 of the king’s troops attempted to raise a fortification about the town, to defend it against the parliament forces, but were prevented by mr. Edward Vaughan, who at the head of a small party completely routed them, and took their captain pris¬ oner. Some Roman coins have been found at a well in this vicinity called Fyn- mn-Vawr, bearing this inscription, imp. caesar traian, which sanction the opin¬ ion that Dolgelley was known to the Ro¬ mans. The principal inn is the Golden- Lion, or Plas Isa (the lower house). The Ship Tavern is a very large newly-built inn. At the Angel Inn there is very com¬ fortable accommodation for travellers without a carriage. This town is seen to the greatest advantage from the Machyn¬ lleth road at the distance of about 2m., and like many Welsh towns is only pleas¬ ing at a distance. The prospects from a spot called the Bowling-green, are singu¬ larly fine. The threatening summit of Cauer Idris, the northern ascent to which appears nearly perpendicular, lends it’s wonderful display of mountain sub¬ limity ; a train of subordinate inequalities, stretching their indignant eminences a- long it’s base. This mountain is generally ascended from Dolgelley, which is within the distance of 6m. from it’s summit. Guides may be had from Dolgelley to Cader Idris, which for height, abrupt and tremendous precipices, lakes, and exten¬ sive prospects, may vie with, if not sur¬ pass Snowdon. The summit of Cader Idris is about 5§m. distant. The follow¬ ing account of the guide at Dolgelley was written by Dr. Mavor, in 1805, in “ Mod¬ ern Travels,” published by R. Phillips. “ The Cader Idris Guide is one of the most original characters I ever met with. On his introduction he delivered the fol¬ lowing hand-bill. “ Lege, aspice ConJuctorem, et ride. ROBERT EDWARDS, second son of the celebrated tanner, Wil¬ liam Edwards, ap Griffith, ap Morgan, ap David, ap Owen, ap Llewellyn, ap Cad- waladar; great great great grandson of an illegitimate daughter of an illustrious hero (no less famed for his irresistible prowess, when mildly approaching under the velvet standards of the lovely Venus, than when sternly advancing with the terrible banners of the bloody Mars) sir Rice ap Thomas!!! by Anne, alias Cath¬ erine, daughter of Howell ap Jenkin, of Ynys-y-maesgwyn ; who was the thir¬ teenth in descent from Cadwgan, a lineal descendant of Bleddyn, ap Cynfyn, Prince of Powis. Since his nativity full two and eighty times hath the sun rolled to his summer solstice; 50 years was he host of the Hen and Chickens ale-house, Per.-y- bont, 20 of which be was apparitor to the late reverend Father in God, John, Lord Bishop of Bangor, and his predecessors: by chance made a glover, by genius a fly- dresser and angler. Is now by the All Divine assistance, Conductor to, and over the most tremendous mountain Cader Idris, to the stupendous cataracts of Cayne and Mowddach, and to the enchanting cascades of Dol-y-melynllyn, with all it’s beautiful romantic scenery ; Guide Gene¬ ral, and Magnificent Expounder of all the natural and artificial curiosities of North Wales; Professor of Grand and Bombastic lexicographical words; Knight of the most anomalous, whimsical, (yet perhaps happy,) order of Hairbrained Inexplica- bles.” He is a little slender man about 5 feet 4 inches in height, and notwith¬ standing his advanced age, hopped and skipped about the room with all the vivacity and agility of a school-boy. The manner in which he expresses himself is as droll as his appearance. He was dressed in a blue coat with yellow buttons, a pair of old boots, and a cocked hat and 469 DOLGELLEY. 470 feather of enormous size. His whole air was military tho’ he had never been a soldier. He procured several little horses. Nothing could be so amusing as to see the guide, en militaire, with a long white rod in his hand, like another Merlin, setting out on a full canter from the door of the inn, on his Welsh poney, followed by a little cavalcade who could scarcely keep their seats for laughter. During the ex¬ cursion, finding that the inhabitants of a farm house where Edwards had been ac¬ customed to procure refreshments, were all gone to attend a mountain preacher, he consigned them immediately to the devils of TenerifFe, and could scarcely be restrained from forcing his way in at a window, in search of cwrvv or bread and cheese. The day was so extremely hot, that the party agreed to abandon the thoughts of mounting to the summit of Ca- dar Idris; but when the evening began to grow more cool, attended by our guide general, we walked 2 or 3 miles along the Towyn road, to have a nearer view of that celebrated mountain. The point named cadar appears to the eye below, little superior in height to the saddle ; but the 3d point or apex is neither equal in height nor beauty to the other two. Du¬ ring this excursion we were entertain.-d with the conversation of our guide, who walked with the alertness of a boy. His account of the Jumpers in the neighbour¬ hood was very free. “ They are a set of fornicating sons of b-s,” said he. It seems they once attempted to exhibit their orgies in the town of Dolgelley, but the great mass of the inhabitants being unin¬ fected with fanaticism, some of the young men began to jump and howl with them, particularly with the female devotees, which put them completely out of coun¬ tenance. < ur guide talked much of cu¬ riosity-men, meaning naturalists; and e- numerated among his followers some eminent names in science and literature; among the rest sir Joseph Banks and the late earl of Bristol. In the morning he came to take leave of us, and held out his hand to me with “ God bless you ! I hope we shall meet again !” Poor man ! his age, his figure, his vivacity, were all calculated to inspire Interest. May his evening of life be yet long and serene ; and may the angel of peace smile on him at his departing hour !” Sir R. Hoare asserts that he “ knows of no place in the principality, whence so many pleasing and interesting excursions may be made ; and where nature bears so rich, varied, and grand an aspect as at Dolgelley. The ride to Dinas y Mowddu, and thence to Bala over the mountains, and back through the vale in which the river Dee takes it’s rise, affords much fine scenery. At the upper end of the lake of Bala is the Roman station of Caer Gai, situated upon a gentle eminence close to the road side. The Waterfalls in this vicinity are also a considerable attraction to the tour¬ ist ; these are lihaiadr du (the black cata¬ ract) ; Rhaiadr y Mawdac/i (the fall of the river Mawddach) ; and Pistylly Cayne (the fall of the Cain). The first is about 5, the two latter about 8m. from Dolgelley, and all of them near the high-road leading towards Maentwrog. Plants. Near Dolgelley grow, in mountainous pastures, Meum athamanta, Empetrum nigrum ; in peatbogs, Rubuschamcemorus; upon dry places in the mountains, Lycopodium cla- vatum ; upon old walls and moist rocks in various parts of the county, Cotyledon umbilicus; between Dolgelley and Llyn arran, about ~m. from the pool, Genista pilosa; near the cataract at Dolymelynllyn, distant 6m., Orobus sylvattcus; Myrica gale, is common in bogs. “ It is a little extraordinary that this plant, certainly possessed of powerful qualities, should find no admission into our Materia Medica. The poor inhabitants of Merionethshire are not inattentive to it’s virtues; they term it Bwrli, or the emetic plant, and use it for this purpose. An infusion of the leaves as tea, and an external appli¬ cation of them to the abdomen, are con¬ sidered as a certain and efficacious vermi¬ fuge. It is made a substitu'e for hops in brewing : a decoction is used in the mor¬ bus pedicularis, and in the vulgar species of herpes. It furnishes a yellow dye for woollen cloth; and by it’s powerful odour is fatal to moths and bugs.” Rev. J. Evans. Farms in this vicinity are small, running from 20/. to 501. per annum ; few leases are granted, and little grain produced. Potatoes are raised in abundance. A great neglect of horticulture is prevalent in this and in many districts of Wales. The agri¬ cultural society of Merioneddshire, might do much in inciting the poor to industry 471 DOLGELLEY. 472 in the produce of various kitchen roots, vegetables, and fruits. They should be en¬ couraged to enclose, reclaim, and plant little patches around their cottages. O give the heirs of poverty their cots, attach them fondly to their native spots; amid their thorny paths entwine a flower; their’s soft submission, thine attemper’d power. Force them no more like banish’d men to roam, but give to each that balm of life, a home! a home, tho’rocking in the mountain’s brow! or plac’d obscure in woodland vale below. Pratt. The Agricultural Society at Dolgelley, was establishad under the patronage of sir R. W. Vaughan, bart. m. p. It is a subject of regret that the use of draught oxen declines in this county, and that horses increase; the country being already not rich, this practice will tend to keep them poor. Flannel is the common ma¬ nufacture in and about Dolgelley. AN EXCURSION TO THE WATERFALLS. BY THE REV. W. BINCLEY. “ In setting out on this expedition from Dolgelley, I left the road, and went along a footpath to the right, a few hun¬ dred yards before I reached the bridge at Llanelltyd. I wandered about a quarter of a mile across the meadows, when I came to an avenue of aged sycamores, which led to the remains of an abbey, not visible from the road, called by the Welsh, Y Vanna, or Vanner, and by Tanner Kymmer Abbey. Part of the church of this monastery only is left, and the refectory and abbot’s lodging are built into the ad¬ joining farm-house. The e. end is the most perfect, and through it’s thick cover¬ ing of ivy I observed 3 small lancet win¬ dows. Against the s. wall are a few small gothic pillars and arches, and an aperture in the wall in which was proba¬ bly kept the holy-water; in this part of the building there has also been a semi¬ circular door opposite to two small arches, and near them a mutilated stone, represent¬ ing the head of a human figure. The space of ground which these walls en¬ close is very inconsiderable, and from the great plainness of the building, it will scarcely form a picture from any point of view whatever, yet one has bSen given in Moore’s Monastic Remains, p. 109. Tho’ it is little more than a mile distant, it is scarcely known in Dolgelley. I enquired for it in vain as Kymmer Abbey, for the only name it has there is Y Fanner. It was founded, according to mr.Robert Vaughan, in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of Merioneth, and sons of Cynan ap Owen Gwynedd, prince of N. Wales. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the ab¬ bey was dedicated to st. Mary. Re¬ turning from the abbey, I crossed the bridge at Llanelltyd, and went along the vale leading towards Maentwrog. The first water-fall I came to was Rhaiadrddu, this is in the grounds of W. A. Maddox, esq. at Dol-y-Melynllyn, (the holme of the yellow pool). It is a double fall, about 60 feet high, and the water foams with a thundering noise among the black rocks down which it falls. These rocks give tn the scene a singular appearance, from their being in many places covered with a pure white lichen. The trees on one side of the stream had been lately cut down, but the lively and varied green of those on the other, formed an elegant con¬ trast to the almost jet black rocks with which they were intermixed. The torrent rolls into a small deep basin, where it is dashed along a rugged channel, and falls into the Mawddach, at no great distance. Mr. Maddox has been at the expense of making a very good foot-path, both to the bottom and upper part of this fall, giving to the traveller every possible means of seeing it to advantage. About a mile further I turned to the right to see the other two, which are situated within a few hundred yards of each other. The path lays along some woods and meadows. From the side of a hill, about jjm. from the fall, I observed the river Mawddach roll¬ ing down a steep, in a woody vale above, and it’s hoarse murmuring just reached my ear. Beyond it, at some distance, was a rude arch, which crossed the glen, and from my present station gave a pleasing and romantic cast to the scene. This was a truly alpine bridge over the river Cayne, formed by the rude trunk of an oak which hung frightfully over the black torrent, that roared among the rocks beneath. Hav¬ ing passed this, I soon found myself at the foot of Rhaiadr y Mawddach (the cataract of the river Mawddach). This stream falls down a rock between 50 and 60 feet in height, the strata of which lying in paral¬ lel lines, several degrees inclined from the horizon, give the scene a singular and crooked appearance. The stream is thrice broken in it’s descent, and the bason into 473 DOLGELLEY. 474 which it i* precipitated is very large. The rocks and trees form an amphitheatre around, and the foreground was finely broken by large pieces of rock. The upper part of the fall was hidden by intervening rocks, but on crossing the stream, it came into view, and the scene then appeared complete and picturesque. Pistyll y Cayne (the spout of the Cayne) is by far the highest and most magnificent cataract of the three. A narrow stream rushes down a vast rock, at least 150 feet high, the horizontal strata of which run in irregular steps through it’s whole breadth, and form a mural front. These indeed are so regular, as in a great measure to spoil it’s picturesque beauty, unless hidden by a volume of water much greater than usual. Immense fragments of broken rock, scat¬ tered around in every different direction, at the foot of the fall, communicate a pleasing effect. And the agreeable mix¬ ture of tints of the dark oak and birch, with the yellower and fading elm, formed a scene highly pleasing. The guide who accompanied me was an Englishman, who had resided only a few years in Wales. He seemed ignorant of the language, which prevented him from giving me as much information as I wished. His name was Samuel Rartlel; he kept a small pub¬ lic house near Dol-y-Melynllyn.” Mr. Warner met with a well informed guide to the cataracts, named Henry Roberts, keeper of the toll-gate at Llanelltyd. The approach to Barmouth was for¬ merly over a prodigious mountain, sur¬ mounted with great difficulty and passed with apprehensions of destruction. The magistrates of the county, however, bent on improvement, agreed with an under¬ taker to form a road out of the steep rocks jutting from the sea, and to guard it with a wall. The labour was astonishing, the price 2 guineas a yard. It is now a most charming road, exhibiting romantic bold¬ ness of scenery. A stone bridge of several arches conducts the traveller over the Wnion which here flows, many hund¬ red feet wide. On the right, at a mile distant from the town, on the bank of the river, are the ruins of Kymmcr Abbey. [see 471.] Two miles from Dol- gelley is Nanneau Park , once the residence of Hawel Sole, an inveterate enemy of Owen Glyndwr, the ancient scat of the family of that name, now of Sir William Vaughan, bart. The road is by a steep ascent, and the house stands on very high ground. Sir Robert Vaughan erected a new and handsome mansion. In the up¬ per part of the park are the remains of a British post, called Moel Orthrwn, or the Hill of Oppression. The traveller will here be invited to examine nature in one of her vagaries, as exhibited in the before- mentioned celebrated fall of the Cayne and the Mavvddach ; but in dry weather sev¬ eral of these falls vanish, and the spot ap¬ pears to great disadvantage. Proceeding northward up the vale of the Maw, at Poly Melynllyn, 6m. from Dolgelley, is the house of counsellor Maddox ; here turning to the left up a steep acclivity, the eye meets the furious Garfa, a wide mountain torrent. [See the preceding description by mr. Bingley.] The magnificent object of the Pistily Cayne appears to the greatest advantage from below, by crossing a truly alpine bridge formed of the trunk of an immense oak, laid from rock to rock, over a narrow dark chasm. The scenery from this point cannot be surpassed. Retiring from these delightful scenes, the traveller regains the road to Llan Eltyd turnpike, where the tide flows to a considerable height. Brigs are built here of 200 tons burden. From Llan Eltyd to Barmouth is 10m. of most excellent road, winding round the hill opposite to Dolgelley, on a shelf of rock, through hanging woods, a- cross a handsome stone bridge over the Mavvddach, where it joins the Wnion. The expanse of water here is considerable, at high tide, having the appearance of a large lake, enveloped by mountains. The vivid summit of Cader now assumes the appearance of a volcano. The road fol¬ lows the inequalities of the shore, till it occupies a narrow shelf of the perpendicu¬ lar rock of Barmouth. Here is a fine view of the river falling into the beautiful bay of Cardigan. “ The drive from Dol¬ gelley to Barmouth,” says sir Richard Hoarc, “ commands natural beauties far superior to any in this neighbourhood ; but to see it to advantage, the traveller must wait till the tide comes up the river.” Relating to this road the panegyric of mr. Pratt runs thus. “It’s beauties are so manyfold and extraordinary, that they lit¬ erally “ beggar description.” New pas¬ tures of the most exuberant fertility, new woods rising in the majesty of foliage, th,e 475 DOLGELLEY. 476 road itself curving in numberless unex¬ pected directions, at one moment shut into a verdant recess, so contracted that there 6eems neither carriage nor bridle-way out of it: at another the azure expanse of the main ocean filling your eye. On one side rocks glittering in all the colours of that beauty which constitutes the sublime, and of an height which diminishes the wild herds that browse, or look down upon you from the summit, where the largest ani¬ mal appears insignificantly minute. On the other hand, plains, villas, cottages, venerable halls, or copses, with whatever tends to form that milder grace which be¬ longs to the beautiful.” The high road to Maentwrog and Tan-y-bwlch abounds in beauties, sub¬ lime and various. Ranges of mountains stretch their unequal summits in every direction ; now fearfully bending over the narrow path of the traveller, and now gladdening his hazardous progress with a more distant view of their magnificent elevation. Winding amid their regular confusion, for 4 or 5m., is seen the river Mawddach, the black and impetuous cur¬ rent of which flashes indignant on perpet¬ ual huge masses of stone, hurled by tem¬ pests from the parent mountain. Near this road occur the cataracts of Rhaiadr y Mawddach, and Pistyll y Cayne, but it is almost impossible to find them without a guide. Having advanced 7 or 8m , the vale opens to a somewhat extended plain, bounded by black and rugged moun¬ tains. On the High road to Llan- elltyd, l|m. (after crossing the Maw¬ ddach, keep on the r. of it for near 4m.) Dolymetpillyn-, —Woodcock, esq., 3m., a little bepond is Pont ar Garfa and Pont Eden. Cefn Deuddwr, in the r. l|m. Near this place are the 2 great waterfalls of the Mawddach and Cain rivers. Trawffymydd, 6|m. Maentwrog , 5m. [see Ll anelltyd.] To Towyn the road skirts the northern foot of Cader Idris. The wild precipices of this gigantic mountain on the one hand, and the craggy tops of inferior elevations on the other, are the only features in view for some miles, when the road afterwards lies over the undulations of boggy moun¬ tains, without a trace of cultivation or in¬ habitant.—Rev. R. Warner. To Cader Idris, mr. Bingley took the road to Machynlleth; which for 2m., he found replete with pastoral beauty. The wide river Mawddach, in the distance, reflects it’s silvery whiteness amid the high and dreary mountains. The inter¬ vening space is varied with every luxuri- ancy of woods, meadows, and corn-fields, intersected by the river Wnion, which serpenuzes along the vale. The road soon afterwards, passing over high and wet moors, became dreary and irksome, the lofty Cader Idris on the right, it’s summit obscured in clouds, remaining the sole source of amusement. Arrive at Llyn iri- grasenyn (the pool of the three grains) so denominated from 3 huge fragments of rock lying at the e. end of it. The pool is said to be upwards of 50 fathoms deep. Near this pool the prospect began to im¬ prove, and entering along straight hollow, Llyn Mwyngil, the lake of the pleasant retreat, came in with distant hills to close the vale. The Nymphaea alba grows in this lake. The elevation of Aran Benllyn from Dolgelley is 2760 feet; of Cader Idris, 90 feet more. From Dolgelley to Bala, mr. Skrine pursued the course of the Avon for awhile and after traversing some high grounds, at last he gained a view of the lake of Bala, and coasted it’s northern shore to the town, situated at it’s eastern extremity. To Machynlleth, 15m. Five miles to Llyn Trigrasenyn, on the 1.; 2 to a small public house (the blue lion) whence a guide maybe had to the summit of Cader Idris. 4m. further, see Llyn Mwyngil, at a distance on the r.; 3, cross the Dovey ; 1, Machynlleth. [SeeCader Idris, p. 245.] To Harlech, proceed to Llanelllyd, I Am. (where a road on the r. is to Caernar¬ von, by wayol TrawfFymydd Maentwrog, and Beddgelert; and an the 1. to Barmouth, 10m.) continue on the banks of the Maw¬ ddach river, for 3;|m. to Pont ddu, where quit the Barmouth road, turning to the r. to Pont hirgwm ljm. leaving Hendre Fov- vion, on the r. 1m. beyond turn to the r. to Llanenddwyn, on the 1. to Taly ffynno- neu, 6Jm. (on the 1. Fron y foel isaf, a little further Cue yr yffynon and Fron yfoel uchaf on the r. A little further is a road on the 1. to Llanenddwyn, 2m. on the r. to TrawfFymydd, about 14m.) Llanbedr, 2§m. Having passed the estuary of the Bychan, Llandanwg on the r.; Llanfair, l(,m.; Har¬ lech, lm. I'o Machynlleth, 15 miles, taking Cader Idris, 5§ miles distant (which see) by the way, Bingley. 47 S DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE. DOWNING. To Cader Idris, and back to Dolgelley, thence to Llanelltyd, I 5 mile, Aikin. — Cader Idris, back again to Dolgelley, thence to Barmouth, Evans. — Cader Idris, and back, thence to Llanilltyd, 2 miles, Pennant. — Maentwrog, 17 miles, Warner. — Barmouth, 11^ miles, Hutton; Skrine. — Bala, 18 miles, Skrine. — Tan y bwlch, by way of Dol y Melynllyn, 19 miles, Wyndham. — Towyn, 26 miles, Warner’s 2d walk. — Machynlleth, see Llanbadarn-vawr. ///saat //a////■/ From Capel Curig, 6 miles, Binglev. - Beddgelart, 14 miles, Aikin. -Tan y Bwlch, 21 miles, Pennant. DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE is seated in a rocky valley, watered by the Llugwy, 6m. s-s-e. of Llanrwst. It is, from it’s situation among mountains, difficult to find; so that a guide should betaken, or nu¬ merous enquiries made. The castle stands on a rocky steep, nearly perpendicular on one side, and in a vale entirely closed in by mountains. It has occupied the entire summit on which it was built, yet was never large. It consisted of 2 square towers, each 3 stories high, having one room on a story, and a court-yard which was between them. The largest of these towers is, in the inside, only 27 feet in length, 18 in width, and the walls 6 feet in thickness. The walls of the court are destroyed, and ofother buildings, only one small part is left. After a quick descent from the castle of lm. appears the village of Dolwyddelan, in a very retired spot. It is composed of small cottages, where no language but that of the country is known. The inhabitants are extremely simple, and in their manners rather reserved and tim¬ id. Jorwerth Drwyndwn made this castle his residence; and here his son Llewelyn the great, is said to have been born. A fir tree, 4 feet in diameter, was found 3 feet deep in a turbary, near this place, 1786. Regaining the road to Llanrwst, near Pont-y-Pair, there is a singular bridge of 5 arches, not far from Bettws y Coed (the station in the wood). The lofty arches of this bridge cross the river Llugwy, the bed of which is covered with uncommon masses of rock. Passing hence on the road to Capel-Cu- rig, about a mile, the traveller will find a narrow glen, down which the river Llugwy foams, and proceeding a little higher, the celebrated cataract of Rhaiadr y IVcnol (the cataract of the swallow), is discoverable. This fall, and the scenery around it, are very gTand. Mr Pen¬ nant crossed Pont y pair, and passed under a very lofty rock clothed with wood, called Carreg y gwaleh (the rock of the falcon). Here was the retreat of a famous partizan of the house of Lancaster, called Dafydd ap Shenkin, who lurked in a cave, still named Ogo Dafydd ap Slienkin. The an¬ cient house of Cwedir stands near the foot of this rock A little below Pont y pair, the Llugwy unites with the Conwy. The latter river rises from Llyn Conwy, a large pool about 3m. beyond the viliage Penmachno, and tho’ the beds of each before their junction were rugged, they here glide in a tranquil current. At Bettws is an ancient monument in the church, in mem¬ ory of GryfFydd, the son of Davyd Goch, natural son of Davyd, brother to Llewelyn, the last prince of Wales. The road through the luxuriant vale of Llanrwst pre¬ sents the gayest tints of cultivation, inter¬ spersed with gentlemen’s seats. The gloomy woods of Gwydir, which nextoccur, afford a fine contrast to the luxuriance of the vale. The Conwy runs at a little dis¬ tance from the road, and is occasionally seen through the dark foliage of the trees. Emerging hence, the vale opens, in which the town of Llanrwst appears conspicu¬ ously among the finest scenes which na¬ ture’s pencil ever traced. A quarter of a mile from Llanrwst, is Gwydir. Between this place and Llanrwst, is the bridge over the Conwy, constructed in 1636, by Inigo Jones. [See Llanrwst.] To Llanrwst, 11 miles, Pennant; Bingley; Aikin. — Caernarvon, 10 miles. Mr. Pennant commenced his Tour in Wales at this, his native place and residence. DOWNING, in the parish of Whiteford, near Holywell, in Flintshire, is beautifully situated among woods, but principally known to the world as the seat of the late Thomas Pennant, esq. to whose indefati¬ gable researches the natural history and topography of Great-Britain is under many obligations. Downing is the principal house in the township, and was built 479 DOWNING. 4S0 about the year 1627. The present name is evidently a corruption of Eden-Owain, the name of the township in which it 6tands. The house was founded by John Pennant, of Bychton, who marrying a rich heiress of this place, erected an elegant mansion, with stone brought from a din¬ gle called Nant-y-bi, opposite the modern edifice. The present structure is erected in the form of a roman H; a mode of archi¬ tecture common in Wales at that period, with this ancient and pious motto on the front: “ Heb Dduw heb ddim, a duw a digon,” signifiying, without God there is nothing; with God enough. The grounds are very extensive, with walks along fine Bwelling lands, beneath the shady depth of glens, or through contracted meads, which meander to the shore; with de¬ lightful views towards the hills, and the ancient Pharos on Garreg. Over the chan¬ nel of the Dee are the Hilbree Isles, the Middle Isle, and the Eye Isle. On the first grows Statice reticulata. On one of them are some remains of a cell of Be¬ nedictines. The sea-view is animated by numerous fleets entering and quitting the port of Liverpool. Below the house are the ruins of the abbey of Malandina, which add considerable beauty to the view. The house, much improved by mr. Pennant, at different times, consists of a hall and library, with a large parlour adjoining, and a smoking-room, most antiquely fur¬ nished with ancient carvings, and the horns of all the curopean beasts of chase. Above is an elegant drawing-room and a tea-room. The library, which if minutely described, would fill a tolerably sized volume, contains a choice collection of books, chiefly history, and many scarce editions of the classics, with a great col¬ lection of mss. solely the produce of mr. Pennant’s labour and industry, among which is a copy of “ The Outlines of the Globe,” in 22 volumes folio, with ornaments, illuminations, &c. In the hall are some very good pictures by Peter Paillou, an inimitable painter of ani¬ mals and birds; the parlour is also filled With portraits and paintings, mostly re¬ duced from originals by the ingenious Moses Griffith, an untaught artist of N. Wales, who accompanied mr. Pennant in most of his tours through England, Scot¬ land and Wales. Among the portraits is Charles l,hy Vandyck, in a scarlet jacket. Another opposite is that of Charles, great grandson to the former. Howel, of humorous epistolary memory, in his work, entitled “Epistolae Ho-Elianae,” relates a wonderful story of John Pennant of Bych¬ ton, who exhibited a most singular phe¬ nomenon in physiology, a serpent in a man’s heart. It forms his 43d letter, and is addressed to that organ of credulity, sir Kenelm Digby, knt. This portentous story is also given by dr. Edward May, in a 4to. pamphlet, entitled “ A most cer- taine and true Relation of a strange Mon¬ ster or Serpent, found in the left Ventricle oftheheartof John Pennant, gentleman, of the age of 21 years. By Edward May, Doctor of Philosophy and Physick, and Professor elect of them in the Colledge of the Academy of Noblemen, called the Musaeum Minervae. Physitian also Ex¬ traordinary unto her Most Sacred Majesty Queene of Great-Britain, &c. London: Printed by George Millar, mdcxxxix.” The estate also abounds with coal-works, as do the environs with lead mines, par¬ ticularly one hill, on which is a cavern, supposed to be made by the Romans when they worked these and the neighbouring mines. Univ. Mag Oct. 1801. Thomas Pennant, esq. was born at'Downing, June 14th, 1726. On the death of his father he became possessed of a sma 1 estate, in which was discovered a rich mine of lead ore, this circumstance enabled him to im¬ prove his property and gave him leisure for literary pursuits. At the age of 12, John Salusbury, esq. father of Hester Lynch, gave him a copy of Willoughby’s Orni¬ thology, which directed the bias of his genius to natural history. Early in life he surveyed with an observant eye, the most interesting parts of England and Ireland. In 1755 he began to correspond with Lin¬ naeus. He subsequently visited the con¬ tinent and became acquainted with Buf- fon and Voftaire. In Switzerland he connected himself with baron Haller : in Holland with Pallas. He visited Scotland in the years 1769 and 1772, and made afterwards several excursions in N. Wales. His talents have not been con¬ sidered brilliant, yet they were usefully employed. His disposition was benefi¬ cent ; and in the capacity of a magistrate he was upright and just. The last editions of his works are as follow. British Zo¬ ology, 3 vol. 1776]; vol. 4, 1777; Synop- 481 DOWNING. 482 ops is of Quadrupeds, 8vo. 1771; History an ancient chapel, now a farm-house. of Quadrupeds, 2 vol. 4to. 1792; Gen¬ era of Birds, 8vo. 1793; Indian Zool¬ ogy, 4to. 1792 ; Arctic Zoology, 2 vol. 4to. 1792; Tour in Scotland in 1769,1774; Tour in Scotland, 1772, 3 vol. 4to. 1790 ; Tour in Wales, 2 vol. 4to. 1784; Journey from Chester to London, 4lo. 1782; Ac¬ count of London, 1791; Literary Life, 4to 1793; Hist, of Whiteford and Holywell, 4to. 1796 ; Outlines of the Globe, vol. 1 and 2, 4to. 1798 ; Miscellanies, 30 copies from a private press; History of the Pata¬ gonians, from the same press. The fol¬ lowing Posthumous Publications appeared in 1801 ; i. e. Outlines of the Globe, vol. 3 and 4, 4to. ; Journey from London to Dover, 4to. 1801 , Journey from Dover to the Isle of Wight. Mr. Pennant died oi a pulmonary disease, the latter end ot 1798. Two miles n-w. of Downing is the an¬ cient mansion of Tre mostyn, called after a family of the same name. The house is approached by a magnificent gateway called Porth mavvr, erected at the termin¬ ation of a venerable avenue of forest trees; which leads to one vestibule of the man¬ sion, which stands in a small hut beautiful park, well clothed with wood. It is sup¬ posed to have been erected as early as the time of Henry 6, but additions and altera¬ tions have nearly obliterated it’s original character. The gloomy hall is furnished with the high Dais, or elevated upper end, and it’s long table for the lord and his jovial companions, and another in the side, the seat of the interior partakers of the good cheer. The u alls are furnished, in a suitable manner, with ancient militia guns, swords, and pikes; with helmets and breast-plates; with funeral atchiev- ments; and with various spoils of the chase. The adjacent kitchen is overlooked by a gallery leading to the ancient apart¬ ments of the lady of the house. There are some remarkable portraits of the Mos- tyns, some busts collected in Italy, and a library containing a most elegant collec¬ tion of the classics, and various mss. upon vellum. Mr. Pennant says, that scarcely any private library can boast of so valuable an assemblage. The family are besides possessed of other antiquities. in the higher part of this township stands the curious cross called Maen Achxuynfan, or the stone of lamentation. It is 12 feet high, and curiously sculptured. Near it is 17 called Gelli. From a hill in this parish, called Garreg, the lofty tract of Snowdon is discernable, from the crooked Moel Shabog at one end, to the towering Pen- maenmawr at the other; the vast promon¬ tory of Llandidno, part of the isle of An- glesea, with the great bay of Llandulas, forming a vast crescent, the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey, and to the n. the isle ot Man, and the Cumberland alps. In the township of Tre-mostyn, near the shore, is a cliff of a very singular appear¬ ance, looking like the semi-vitrified lava of a volcano. A vein, in which was lodg¬ ed some pyritic matter, took fire, and caused the phenomenon. It chiefly raged towards the Iront, and diminished gradu¬ ally in the internal part of the bed. These appearances are said not to be uncommon in Dei byshire. On the shore is the ancient smelting-house of Llanerchymor. The estuary of the Dee lies at a short dis¬ tance on the 1. The hundred of Wiral is seen on the other side. This view of the sea terminates at one end with Chester and the rock Beeston; on the other with the little islands of Hilbree or Ilbre. Upon one has been a cell of Benedictines. On crossing a little rill beneath the banks, the parish of Holywell is entered. On the r. mr. Pennant ascended to the site of the abbey and castle of Basingwerk. Mr. Pennant, in setting out on his jour¬ ney to Snowdon, notices that he passed Whiteford and ascended the hill of Mynydd Garreg, or the Rock, a high and conspic¬ uous part of the country. The Romans took advantage of it, and placed upon it’s summit a Pharos, to conduct the naviga¬ tors to and from Deva, along the difficult channel of the Seleia Portus. The build¬ ing is still remaining, and tolerably entire; it’s form circular; the height considerable; the inner diameter 12£ feet; the thickness of the walls 4 feet 4 inches. Over each door is a square funnel, like a chimney, which opens on the outside, about half way up the building. About 4 feet from the ground are 3 circular holes, lined with moriar, as is frequent in rom.in buildings, and penetrate the whole wall, for pur¬ poses unknown. Along the higher part, are 8 square openings, facing the channel, in each of which were placed lights. To the building there is evidently a broad and Taised road, pointing from the e. ; and 483 DOWNING. near it’s upper end are the marks of a trench. Descend and leave on the L Maen Achwyfan, before mentioned. Glol, an enclosed mountain, a little farther on, has among the bushes various circular foundations of stone unmortared build¬ ings. A mile hence is the small town of Newmarket, almost the entire creation of it’s then owner, John Wynne, esq., of Gop. Hence mr, Pennant ascended the hill called Copa'r’leni, on the summit of which is a most enormous carnedd, or tu¬ mulus, of lime-stones. Returned along the ridge of the hill, marked with verdant tumuli (the tombs of ancient heroes). See beneath the little church of Gwaen-yskor remarkable for it’s ancient register. De¬ scend to the church and village of Llanasa. In approaching from the high lands to¬ wards the shore, observe the ruins of a small chapel, at the little hamlet of Gwes- pyr, near Trelacre, one of the seats of sir Pyers Mostyn, bart. Pass over Gronant- moor. On approaching Prestatyn, about 2m. from Trelacre, the flat becomes ex¬ tremely fertile in corn. A little below the mill, in a meadow, is the site of the Cas¬ tle ; nothing more than the foundations of which remain. Near Prestatyn grow, 100 yards nw. of Rhyil marsh, Hippurus vulgaris ; in a marsh upon the sea-coast, a mile w., Schoenus compressus; upon part of Salt marsh, lm. w., Poa maritima ; upon Rhyd marsh, Rumex maritimus, Alisma ranunculoides, Scirpus maritimus, and Limosella aquatica. The road hence to Diserth is extremely pleasant. Mr. Pennant commenced his journey to Snowdon from Downing to Diserth. Mr. Pennant’s third excursion was from his own fireside to Llangynog, in Montgomeryshire, at which place he began his account. From Bridgnorth, 15 miles, Lipscomb - Birmingham, 10 miles. DUDLEY is a flourishing and respecta¬ ble market town in the hundred of Half¬ shire, Worcestershire, containing 2040 houses, and 10,107 inhabitants, of whom 4697 were returned in 1801 as being em¬ ployed in trade. This town stands in a detached part of the county, bounded on the east by Tividale and Rowley Re¬ gis, on the w. by King’s Swinford, on the s. and on the n. by Tipton and Sedg- ley, all in Staffordshire. It contains a DUDLEY. 484 Castle, said, to have been built about the year 700, by Dido, or Dodo, a Saxon ; it’s present appellation being probably a cor¬ ruption of his name. Odo and Dodo were brothers of a great mercian house; they were the reputed founders of an abbey at Tewkesbury, and said to have been buried at Pershore in Worcestershire. According i to Doomsday Book, it was given, at the conquest, to Wm. Fitz-Ausculph, who, in the same county, possessed 25 manors. During the contention between king Ste¬ phen and the empress Maud, this castle was held by Gervase Pagnel, who fortified it for the purpose of resisting Stephen. In the reign of Henry 2, Pagnel resided here, but taking'part with prince Henry in an insurrection against his father, the castle was dismantled by order of the king. The heiress of the Pagnels marrying John de Somery, brought this estate into that fam¬ ily. In the 17th of Henry 3, the honour of Dudley was seized by the king, Roger de Somery, it’s owner, having neglected or refused to appear when summoned to receive the dignity of knighthood. The writ for that purpose is preserved in Mad¬ ox’s History of the Exchequer. In the 48th year of the same reign, Somery ob¬ tained the royal license to castellate his mansion at Dudley, which had probably remained unfortified ever since it was dis¬ mantled by Henry 2. It continued in the family of Somery till the 15th of Edward 2, when, on failure of male issue, it was transferred, by marriage, to the Suttons, who were a respectable family in Not¬ tinghamshire ; and on account of their owning Dudley castle, one of them was summoned to parliament as lord Dudley, in the reign of Henry 6: it continued some time with his descendants, but was at length transferred to the duke of North¬ umberland, by John lord Dudley. The duke of Northumberland made great alter¬ ations, and repaired many parts of the castle; his estates were afterwards for¬ feited by opposing the accession of queen Mary. The castle was then granted to sir Edward Sutton, son of John lord Dudley, who had formerly alienated the estate. This, with other lands, was carried by Ann, the heiress of sir Ferdinando Sutton, in marriage, to Humble Ward, esq. son and heir of William Ward, esq. a wealthy goldsmith, and jeweller to the queen of Charles 1. On the 5J3d of March, 1643, 485 DUDLEY. 486 Humble Ward was created a baron, by the title of lord Ward, of Birmingham, in War¬ wickshire. In the civil wars this castle was a royal garrison : it stood a siege of 3 weeks, and was relieved on the 11th of June by a detachment of the king’s forces from Worcester, who, with small loss to themselves, slew 100 men of the parlia¬ mentary army, and took several prisoners and standards. This affair is, however, dif¬ ferently related by Oldmixon, in his His¬ tory of England, who says, “ His majesty being informed that the earl of Denbigh, colonel Mytton, and sir Thomas Middle- ton, had besieged Dudley castle, in Staf¬ fordshire, he sent the lord Wilmot, with the earl of Northampton and the earl of Cleveland’s brigade of horse, with 1000 foot, to raise the siege. Wilmot charged the parliament’s forlorn, under Mytton, with such fury, that his forces were all like to be cut off; and several officers ad¬ vised Denbigh not to quit his trenches, to relieve his friends, but there to abide the coming of the royalists. The carl, who had sent out Mytton to meet them, resolv¬ ed at all ventures, to assist him, and draw¬ ing out his troops, led them on in person, giving the cavaliers so smart a charge that he not only relieved his friends, but re¬ pulsed the king’s party.” Shaw, in his History of Staffordshire, has preserved copies of several warrants that were issu¬ ed in consequence of this siege, which give an affecting picture of the extortions and imposts to which a country, being the seat of civil discord is exposed. This castle was one of the last which held out for the unfortunate monarch, and was maintained for him till the 13th of May, 1646, when colonel Leveson surrendered it to sir William Brereton, the parliament¬ ary general. Several cannon-balls, some of them 32 pounders, have been found at different times about the ruins. Between the keep and the priory are some traces of an intrenchmcnt, thrown up at the time of the siege. The castle was, for several years after the rebellion, inhabited by the lords Wards; the plantations were kept in good order, and the park well stocked with deer. It afterwards became neg¬ lected, and served as a retreat for a crew of coiners, who, on the eve of St. James’s fair, July 24, 1790, set fire to the build¬ ings, but whether accidentally or with design, is not known. In the great hall was an oak table, 17 yards long, and 1 broad, of one entire plank, which originally measured 25 yards ; but, being too long for the place it was intended to occupy, the superfluous part was cut off, and made a table for the hall of a neighbouring gen¬ tleman. Dudley castle consisted of a vari¬ ety of buildings, partly encompassing an area about an acre in size; it was sur¬ rounded by an exterior wall, flanked with towers: the keep, which stands on a con¬ siderable eminence, in the s-w. angle of the area, has evident marks of great an¬ tiquity, and is probably the only part re¬ maining that was built by Dodo, the origi¬ nal founder. Doctor Broker, then minis¬ ter of St. Edmund’s church, but since pre¬ sented to the vicarage, wrote the following pleasing lines, on his planting some ivy round these towers. “ Wind, gentle evergreen, thy spreading arms, round Dodo’s ancient tow’rs; and, from the blast of winter, shield them with thy mantling charms, that they to time’s remotest morn may last. Lodg’d in thy leaves, the birds of various wing shall, unrestrain’d, their mossy mansions form, and round each pond’ring visitant shall sing, safe from the truants’ schoolboy and the storm. Spread, gentle evergreen ! thy branches kind, o’er Dodo’s castle, awful in decay; let them around his loftiest turrets wind, and deck with sober green his ruins grey.” Some time since, lord Dudley and Ward employed a number of workmen in restor¬ ing part of the keep to it’s original state, and raising the mutilated tower to the heighth and form of it’s corresponding one. The vast heap of limestone which was battered down in the civil wars, and which filled up the area, being now taken away, exhibits the original form in which Dodo is stated to have erected it. This massy structure is of an oblong shape, having at each corner a lofty tower, with stair-cases and communications from one to the other, all built of the same durable limestone, dug from the rock below. The bases of each of these 4 towers gradually increase to the foundation, and those on the s. side, which are now laid bare, seem to unite with the formation of the mounc itself: on examining the base apartments cleared from rubbish, instead of windows appear loop-holes, having a flight of steps ascending to the apertures, similar to those of Rochester castle. Next to the keep, in point of antiquity, is the chapel (of which two fine gothic windows remain, one of them is of the lancet form) and the 487 DUDLEY. 488 great gateway, with the apartments over tracery almost entire, and an elegant littla it: this entrance appears to have been very strong; the walls are 9 feet in thick¬ ness, having a portcullis at each end. Under the chapel is a large vault, arched over, which iscommonly called theprison, but the brick-work being broken, it now affords shelter for cattle. These vaulted cavities may probably have been used, at times, as a prison, though not originally constructed for that purpose. The other parts of the castle appear to have been built about the time of Henry 8, or of queen Elizabeth. In the kitchen, which is on the e. side, are two enormous chim- nies, the fire-place of one measures 4£ yards in width. The prospect in walking round the castle is singularly beautiful, and so extensive, that, on a clear day, the eye may discern the counties of Worces¬ ter, Stafford, Derby, Leicester, Warwick, Salop, Hereford, and part of Wales. On the e. and s. sides is a double vallum of considerable depth. Nor is the pros¬ pect more extensive than full of variety, comprising hills and dales, woods and villages, populous towns, and busy seats of manufacture. The stupendous hills of Malvern (though at the distance of about 40 miles), bounding the horizon towards the s., are noble features in the scene; as are also those of Clent, Abberley, the Cleys, and the Wrekin. To the w. of the castle stand the venerable ruins of Dudley Priory. It was a priory of Bene¬ dictine monks, of the order of Clugne, founded near the site of St. James’s church, and dedicated to that saint by Gervase Pagnell, in pursuance of the intention of his father Ralph. It afterwards became a cell to Wenlock, a monastery of the same order, in Shropshire. In 1190 pope Lu¬ cius confirmed the monks in various privi¬ leges and possessions. In 1300 pope Boniface granted an indulgence to all who should pray for the soul of Roger de Som- ery, a benefactor to this house, and buried here. In the 13th year of Edward 1, the prior had license to unpark a heath in the forest of Kinsare, adjoining to the manor of VVodeford. Erdeswicke, in his History of Staffordshire, mentions several monu¬ ments erected within the priory, to the Somerys and Suttons, but no traces of these are now visible. The principal fragments of the building are a handsome gothic window, with the upper part of it’s tower, of an octangular form : a consid. erable part of the building was taken down some years since, for the conveni¬ ence of the manufactory iuto which the tenable remains are converted. At the dissolution, this priory, as parcel of Wen- lock, was granted to sir John Dudley, which grant was confirmed by queen Mary to Edward Sutton, lord Dudley; it was valued, in the whole, at 36/. 3s., the clear yearly value being 33/. Is. 4 d. Dudley contains 2 churches, one dedicated to St. Edmund, and the other to St. Thomas; both united in one vicarage. Bishop San¬ dy’s Survey states St. Edmund’s as the parish church, and St. Thomas as a depen¬ dent chapel; and in the bull of pope Lu¬ cius above mentioned, dated 1190, among other possessions of Dudley priory, are mentioned the chapels of St. Edmund’s and St. Thomas’s, as annexed to the mother church of St. James, in Dudley, which church must have been long since destroyed. During the civil wars the church of St. Edmund’s was demolished, as appears by the following account, taken from the parish register. “ Note, that the church of St. Edmund being demolished by colonel Leveson, in 1646, both parishes did meet in that of St. Thomas, and be¬ came as one in all administrations, and so in their officers, within a few years after; so that the register-book became one also from thenceforth. On the 16th Feb. 1646, Mr. Jno. Taylor was settled in the vicar¬ age of Dudley, and had possession given him of the church of St. Thomas on the 17th of the same month ; also, on the 30th Sept. 1648, upon the people’s petition, it was ordered by the committee for plun¬ dered ministers, that both parishes should repair the church of St. Thomas, and by another former order they were allowed jointly to meet for divine service therein.” At a short distance from the priory, to¬ wards the n., are these wonderful works of art, the tunnel and lime-quarries. The former is 13 feet high and 9 wide, and ex¬ tends l|m. principally through a hard rock, and in some places upwards of 60 feet below the surface. This work was began and made navigable in about the space of 4 years, and affords a striking proof of the vast effects of human industry and perseverance. The stupendous cav¬ erns where the limestone has been work- DUNRAVEN-HOUSE. 490 439 DUDLEY. ed out, are no less deserving the attention ers over the vacancy of the russet expanse; of the’curious, who may there see this no voice is heard, save the echo of the useful article brought from the bowels of torrent’sroarorthe’howlmgsofthe north- the earth, and conveyed through the coun- ern blast; solitude sits enthron’d in the try by means of inland navigation, to serve dreary caverns of the desert, or strifes in the purposes of the husbandman as well awful majesty among the rocks. While as the architect. In these limestone here occurs only the crowded haunts ot quarries is found a lossil called by the men, and an extended prospect of arts, workmen Dudley locust; it is supposed industry, and cultivation. But with these by Linnseus to be a petrifaction of aspecies advantages, there prevails a coarseness ot of the Monoculus, or other insect, at pre- dialect which disgusts, to which are join- sent totally unknown. One sortof this lossil ed corruption, barbarism, and vulgarity, is found, though very scarce, in Sweden, Within 2m. of Birmingham is Soho, where called by Linnsuspetrificatumparadoxon. are carried on the amazing works of Boul- See engraved specimens in Nash’s Hist, of ton and Watt. A little short o t ie town Worcestershire, vol. i, pa. 10. Various is an artificial ruin formed of cinders and other insects and figures of shells have vitrifications, half hidden by encircling been discovered in great perfection. What wy. is called the locust stone is the most rare To Birmingham, 10 miles, Lipscomb, and curious. Dudley Canal forms a navigable communication between the Birmingham canal navigation and the Stourbridge canal. The Dudley extension canal joins the former near Netherton, and passing through a short tunnel in Comber Wood by Hales Owen, enter from Ewenny Priory, miles, Barber. - Bridgend, 5 miles, Malkin. - CaerdifT, along the coast, 26 miles, Evans. - St. Donati’s, 5 miles, Wyndhamj Evans. DUNRAVEN - HOUSE, Glamorgan- Lapel tunnel, nearly 2m. in length, and shire, an old seat of the Wyndham family, shortly after joins the Worcester and Bir- is an irregular dismal building, yet admir- mingham canal. There are two collateral able from it’s situation, which is a lofty cuts from the canal at Windmillend tow- S ea promontory, of 100 feet in height, ards Dudley. Dudley contains 3 charity commanding extensive prospects. Carad- schools, one of them was founded about oc says, that William de Londres, lord of the year 1634, for 30 boys, by Richard Ogmore, won the lordships of Kydwelhy Foley of Stourbridge; Richard Baxter was and Carnewihion in Caermarthenshire the first master; the other is a free gram- from the Welsh, and gave the castle and mar school for 30 girls, founded by Att- manor of Dunraven to his servant sir Ar- woodand Bismore, merchants in London, nold Butler. After continuing long in the Here are also several Sunday Schools. possession of his descendants, it at length The fairs are May 8, Aug. 5, and Oct. 2. fell to the Vaughans, the last of whom. The market-day is Saturday. On his tradition says, was so unprincipled that way to Birmingham, mr. Lipscomb passed he set up lights and employed other divic- avery populous country among numerous es to mislead seamen, so that their vessels manufactories, engines, machines, and might be wrecked on his manor. Tra- carriages. At Tipton, a thriving village, dition further says, that bis crimes did not 2m. from Dudley, and on all sides to escape punishment, for that 3 of his sons which you turn, the smoke of forges as- were drowned in one day in the following cends in copious volumes, and the noisy manner. Within sight of the house is a anvils ring. The iron-masters have filled rock called the Swanscar, which is dry on- this entire district with industry and it’s ly at low water. To this placetwo of But- concomitant wealth. The contrast he- ler’s sons went in a boat for diversion, but tween this swarming country and the neglecting to fasten their vessel, it was deserts of Cwm Tythen or Cwm Glas, washed away as the tide rose, and they might afford subject for reflection. There were left in this state to the horrors of the abrupt precipice nods in horrid sub- death. They were seen from the house, limity, the hills uprear their shaggy sides, but as no other vessel was in the neigh- tlie roaring cataract descends and thunders bourhood no assistance could be lent, through it’s craggy bed, or the eye wand- Daring the confusion of thojC in the house., 491 DUNRAVEN-HOUSE. ELLESMERE. 49^ an infant brother was left alone, who fell into a vessel of whey and was drowned al¬ so. These events were universally re¬ garded as judgments, and mr. Vaughan was so stricken by them, that he became disgusted with the place and sold it im¬ mediately to the present proprietor. Two extraordinary Caverns are situated about a mile westward of the house. One called the Cave is a passage worn through a projecting stack of rocks, running paral¬ lel with the sea shore, and forming a kind of rude piazza, with an entrance to the s. of very grand effect. The other, called the tVindhole, is situated a little to the e. of the cave : it’s depth from the entrance meas¬ ures 27 yards. There are 2 or 3 fissures through the roof of the cavern to the land above, a considerable distance from the edge of the cliff; over which if a hat be laid, it will be blown back into the air with considerable violence ; but this only happens when the wind blows fresh from the s-e. This cave can only be entered at spring tides, and even then a stranger must procure the attendance of some per¬ son from the neighbourhood, as there is danger of being surrounded soon after the tide begins to flow, where to all appear¬ ance the entrance is perfectly secure. These cliffs afford to the artist fine studies of rock. Mr. Evans says there is a third cave lately discovered, which from the petrifactions, and grotesque shapes which strata assume, is considered as the most curious, and has obtained the name of Fai¬ ry Cave. Near Marccross is an ancient cromlech, called the Old Church, the inhab¬ itants believing that these rude structures were once places of worship. There is here a Castle, and other specimens of an¬ tiquity aTe in the neighbourhood. The principal is a monastic ruin, with immense barns and granaries; and an ancient ar¬ mory. Near the point where the Ewenny river falls into the Ogmorc, there is a curious phenomenon. The land above this spot is one continued down, which here abruptly falls to the vale. From the foot of this down issues a large body of water exceed¬ ing in quantity that into which it flows. It foams and boils under the hill, as tho’ it met with great interruptions, and forms 2 steams which act alternately in the veloci¬ ty of their motions ; the one hard, the other soft. 1 ' To St. Donates Castle, 5 miles, Malkin; Barber — Ewenny Priory, miles, Wyndham; Evans. From Overton, 4 miles, Pennant. - Shrewsbury, 16J miles. ELLESMERE, is a town in Shropshire, seated near a lake of 101 acres in dimen¬ sions ; it’s greatest depth 26 yards. The environs have two advantages above other lakes ; namely, on one side a town, on the I other a fine park, called Ockle or Ottley. j The town is of saxon origin, taking it’s name from Aelsmere.orthe greatest mere. It’s principal trade is that of malt, the bar¬ ley in the neighbourhood being remarka¬ bly good. Under the population act in 1801, there appeared to be 5553 inhabi¬ tants, and 1036 houses. The castle stood upon a vast artificial mount, with 3 great ditches on the more accessible side. At present not a vestige is to be seen ; the top being formed into a bowling-green, which may vie with any station in England for the elegance and extent of inland prospect. Beneath is the town, lake, and rich fields and woods. At a distance is Chester, and the Broxton-hills; Wrexham, and the Caer- gwrle mountains; Castle Dinas Bran, and the Berwyn alps; the hills of Merioneth¬ shire; the Llanymynach hill, the Brey- ddin; Pimhill, Cleehill, and the Wrekin. Neither the founder of the castle, nor it’s destroyer can be ascertained. It was possessed by Edwin, immediately before the conquest; and on that event by Roger de Montgomery. The Church anciently belonged to the knights of St. John of Je¬ rusalem, granted to them by Llewellyn, and afterwards confirmed by Edward 3. In the church is an alabaster figure of sir Francis Kynaston of Ottley, and another of his lady, much mutilated. He died in 1590. On the road to Oswestry, from an em¬ inence called the Perthy, may be obtained a most extensive view of the flat part of the county, bounded by the hills of Den¬ bighshire, Montgomeryshire, and Shrop¬ shire. Among them appear the gaps through which the Severn and Dee issue from their mountainous confinements. A- bout 3m. further, along the flat is FSahton, the seat of the Myttons, the maternal an¬ cestry of the ingenious naturalist and trav¬ eller Thomas Pennant, esq. At this house 493 ELLESMERE. EULOE CASTLE. EWENNY PRIORY. 491 Is a good library, and a collection of pic¬ tures ; among the latter are Jacob and his son Reuben shewing Joseph’s shirts, by Guercino; a head by Raphael; St. Peter, by Guido; king David, by Dominichino. Mr. Wm. Mytton’s manuscripts relating to the antiquities of Shropshire are preserved here. A mile further is the village of Whittington. The welsh bards make this place the property of Tudor Trevor, a british nobleman, who lived in 924-. Af¬ ter the conquest it was held by Roger earl of Shrewsbury. The Castle stands upon a flat. The gateway, and ruins of two vast round towers, with cruciform slips, by way of windows, still remain; and ves¬ tiges of two others may yet be traced. It has been surrounded by a moat, and several vast ditches, comprehending some other works. The moat was filled by a rivulet which rises near Pentre Pant, in the parish of Selatyn. On entering the parish of Whittington, it is lost for nearly a mile, and emerges in the fields on the back of the castle. The steward of the manor holds annually a court-leet and court-baron, in a room in the castle, to which the inhabitants are summoned. The Church is an ancient small building, designed originally as a chapel to the cas¬ tle. On the r. is Tre-newydd, a seat of Watkin Williams, esq., in right of his mother*, heiress of the place. Her grand¬ father, Edward Lloyd, esq., who died in 1715, was eminent for his learning, and had prepared materials for the history of his native country.—Pennant. The Road to Llangollen, lies through St. Martins, 5m. Cross the Ceriog river to Chirk, l|m. On the 1. is a road to Os¬ westry, 5|m. (On the 1. is Chirk Cas¬ tle, miss Myddleton.) Whitehurst, 2m. (On the r. of this place is Wynnstay, sir Watkin Williams Wynne, hart. Beyond, on the 1. is Cefn y Went, rev, David Price. Two m. further on the r. is Trevor-hall, Trevor Lloyd, esq. Cross the Ellesmere canal.) Llangollen, The Great-road to Wrexham, passes through Overton, in a detached part of Flintshire, 5£m. (here are roads on the r. to Whitchurch, ll^m. and to Bangor, 3m. Im. beyond, on the r. is Maesygwaelod Lodge, Edw. Webber, esq.; ^m. further to the r. is Bryn y Pys, Francis Parry Price, esq.; and ^m. further to the r. is Givern- jtaylad, P. Lloyd Fletcher, esq. l|m. be¬ yond Overton, cross the Dee river. A road to the 1. leads to Llangollen, by way of Ruabon, 12m.) Eyton, 2m. 5f. in Den¬ bighshire. (On the r. Edw'ard Eyton, esq.; and a littte further the mansion of Owen Ellis, esq.) Marchwiail, 2m. (Jm. to the r. is Bryn y grog, J. Edgeworth, esq. on ,the r. to Whitchurch, 13jm.) On ap¬ proaching Wrexham, 2£m. are the follow¬ ing seats. On the r. is Lluynon Hall, mrs, Jones, and a little further Cefn, H. E. Boates, esq.; lgm. from the road on the 1, is Erddig, P. YorRe, esq. To Oswestry, 8 miles, Pennant. — Wrexham, 12) miles. — Chirk, 6^ miles. — Shrewsbury, 16j miles. //^ rjr * * s * r /r/\/ r**■**-**-^ rr From IJawarden,2 miles, Bindley. -Northop, 5 miles, Pennant. EULOE CASTLE, in Flintshire, from it’s situation on the edge of a deeply wood¬ ed dingle is with difficulty found. It has consisted of two parts; the larger of which has been an oblong tower rounded at one end, and about 14yards long, and 10 or 12 in width, guarded on the accessible part by a strong wall. The other part consists of an oblong court, at the extremity of which are the remains of a circular tower, finely overgrown with ivy, and command¬ ing a view of 3 wooded glens, forming a darksome and gloomy solitude. This fort¬ ress has been well defended ; on one side by a trench, and on the oilier by the deep valley which runs beneath it. It was in the wood adjoining to this place called CoedEuloe, that Henry 2, in an expedition against Owen Gwynedd, received a dread¬ ful repulse from Dafydd and Conan, sons of that hero. In this neighbourhood are very considerable potteries. To Northop, 5 miles, Bingley. — Ilawarden, 2 miles, Pennant. From Ogmore Castle, 1 mile, Barber. - Newton,5 miles, Donovan. * - Dunraven-House, ' 1 \ miles, Wyndham; Evans. EWENNY PRIORY, in Glamorgan¬ shire, was a religious institution, append¬ ing to Ogmore castle, built by Morris de Londres, or his descendant John, in 1141. This priory stands close to the road from Newton to Pyle, in a marshy plain near 495 F/VVENNY PRIORY. FFESTINIOG. 496 the banks of the Ewenny. The strong The orthography and character of the let- embattled walls and towers which appear ters fix the date of this monument to the among the ruins of this priory, indicate same period with the preceding. The that it was not less intended as a place of church contains many other more modern security than of religious rites The hall inscriptions to the memory of the Came of the house is a gloomy apartment in which are several racks, which seem to have been the depositaries of arms. This is the most perfect specimen of the ancient monastery to be met with, but the delap- idations committing on this venerable remnant of monastic life may probably rob Glamorganshire of it’s proudest antiqua¬ rian honours. A well-planted park and handsome mansion are immediately under the eye, at the foot o the hill. The Church is very massive, of a cruciform shape, in which unornamented heavy arches rest on short bulky columns of rude workmanship. The columns, plain cap¬ ital, and circular arches denote it of the earliest norman architecture. Every ad¬ mirer of saxon antiquity will be highly gratified in examining the simple and orig¬ inal architecture of this church. The broken pavement formed of glazed earth¬ en tiles, marked with devices, still to be seen in some places, is ancient and curi¬ ous. Several monuments adorn the walls of the chancel, at the east-end of the church, now engrossed as a cemetry for the principal gentry in the vicinity. There is a square camp upon the hill above this place. “ The simple groined roof of the choir, and the neglected tombstone of it’s found¬ er, bearing this inscription, in old charac¬ ters, claim,” says sir Richard Hoare, “ particular attention. ICl CIST MORICE DE LUNDRES LE FVNDUR DEU LI RENDE SUN LABUR. AM. In the southern transept is an ancient altar tomb, supporting the mutilated effigy of a knight in armour, bearing a shield on his left arm ; the personage to whom this sepulchral memorial was erected, has never yet been clearly ascertained, and has been vulgarly attributed by the whole tribe of modern tourists to Peganus de Turberville, lord of Coity. A happy gleam of sunshine, a pail of water, and a broom, enabled me to ascertain the true original of this effigy, which was intended probably to commemorate a friepd and follower of Moris de Londres : SIRE ROGER DE REMI. CIST ISCI. DEU DE SON ALME EIT MERCI. AM. family, who were possessors of this estate, one of which, more stately than the rest, bears a long inscription in antiquated verse upon it’s base, and in front these lines. Here lys Ewenny’s hope, Ewennv’s pride, in him both flourish’d, and in him both dyd. Death haviny seis'd him, linger’d loath to be the ruine of this worthy family. The satisfaction with which I viewed thia building, as having remained untouched, unaltered, since the days of Giraldus, was considerably damped on beholding it’s present ruinous and delapidatedcondition : in many places uncovered and exposed to the rude elements, it’s windows unglaz¬ ed, the curious stone groined roof of it’s choir cracked, it’s tomb-stones, and among them that of it’s parent and founder, care¬ lessly thrown about in the wildest confu¬ sion ; in short, this old and once respected sanctuary, after an existence of nearly 700 years, is now approaching most rapidly towards it’s dissolution. A large old mansion-house adjoining the church, is still in a more ruinous condition than the norman sanctuary.”—Sir Richard Hoare’s Giraldus, i. 149. To Dunraven-Ilouse, 2) miles, Barber. — Bridgend, 3 miles, Evans. — Pyle,7 miles, Wyndham; Donovan. — Cpwbridge,3 miles. /yyyy//yy/yyy/yyy/yy/yyyy//y From Penmachno, miles, Blngley. - Bala, 18 miles, Hutton. FFESTINIOG, (the place of hastening) is a village situated in a most enchanting vale. It’s dimensions are, however, in¬ considerable, being scarcely 3 miles long, and not exceeding 1 in breadth. Near it are the Falls of the Cynfael. One of them is about 300 yards above and the other 300 yards below a rustic stone bridge. The upper tall consists of 3 steep rocks, over which the water foams into a deep black bason, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks. The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a slight, ly shelving rock, about 40 feet high. After the water has reached the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a nar¬ row rocky chasm, where rolling amjd the 497 FFESTINIOG. 498 shaggy rocks, it glistens among the scat¬ tered fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a smoother bed, and steals a- niong the mazes of the vale. Between the lower cataract and the bridge, is a tall columnar rock, which stands in the bed of the river, called Pulpit Hugh Llv.yd Cyn- fael, or Hugh Lloyd’s pulpit. Near Fies- tiniog ran the ancient military way, paved with stones, even along these steep, and almost inaccessible mountains, called Fford, ur Sam Helen, or Helen’s way, the work of Helen, wife of the emperor Max¬ imus. A similar roman road is discovera¬ ble at Craig Ferwyn. in Merioneth; at Y GymWynus, in Caernarvon ; and Ltanbed- er, in Caerdig 2 n ; and the road from Neath to Brecon, is distinguished by Sarn Helen. Ffestiniog is situated at the head of Cwm Maentwrog, (the vale of Maentwrog, im¬ properly called the vale of Ffestiniog) 2m. n-e. of Maentwrog in Glamorgansh. There are few vales which afford such de¬ lightful prospects. Many of the high mountains bounding it’s sides are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine Dwyryd steals placidly along the bottom, through rich cultivated fields. This river at the bottom of the valley receives the tide, and ex¬ pands into a wide lake-like channel called Traeth Hychan, whence it flows through the sandy estuary of Traeth Mach, and into Caerdigan-bay, the sea at a distance clos¬ ing the view. The embankment and im¬ provement at Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bychan sands has been long in contem¬ plation, but never performed. Proposals were printed in 1770, for making a turn¬ pike-road from Llangynog in Montgome¬ ryshire, through Bala, to Traeth Mawr, and thence to Porthdin-Lleyn, in Caernar- von-bay. The advantages to arise from such new road was stated to be without any ascent above 5 degrees of elevation, so that carriages might travel without chain or drag-staff, over an extent of 52m. The embankment of Traeth Mawr was calculated not to exceed 20,000/ with 2000 acres of land gained. If made low¬ er than Penmorfa 3000 acres would be saved at the expense of 30,000/. The des¬ ign, if completed, would open a shorter and readier road from London to Dublin, than any that is made use of at present. Llangynog is 30m. w. by Shrewsbury. From the latter place there are 2 good turnpike roads through a level country ; one through Llanvyllin the other by Llan- rhaiadr. It would be nearer to go from London to Shrewsbury, and thence through Llangynog to Porth-din-Lleyn, than Irom London by Chester to Holyhead, by 37m. From Bath it would be nigher by 49m. It might be travelled at all times of the year, except in deep snows, the intended pass over the hills being much lower than any at present. It would be free from ob¬ structions by tides, and would not be in¬ commoded by ferries. Forth din-Lleyn is a safe and commodious harbour. The pas¬ sage is 20 leagues, which is 2^ more than from Holyhead, but it is safer and gener¬ ally performed in less time. Sec further statements in the rev. VV. Davies's “ View,” p. 489—495, Tan-y- e wlck Hall, is situated upon rising ground at the N r w. extremity of the vale, embow¬ ered with woods, wnich occupy the steep rocks behind the house, and wave to the breeze high above the top of the building. Tvmmen y mur, near Ffestiniog, was the roman station called Heriri Mons. The village of Maentwroc is seated nearly in the middle of it. Lord Lyttelton, who made a tour through Wales in 1756, gives the following lively description of Ffes¬ tiniog and the contigious vale. “From the height of this village you have a view of the sea. The lulls are green and well shaded with wood. There is a lovely riv¬ ulet which winds through the bottom; on each side are meadows, and above are corn fields along the sides of the hills. At each end are high mountains which seem placed there to guard this charming re¬ treat against any invasions. With the woman one loves, with the friend of one’s heart, and a good library of books, one might pass an age there, and think it a day. When we had skirted this “ happy vale” an hour or two, we came to a nar¬ row branch of the sea, which is dry at low water. As we passed over the sands, we were surprised to see all the cattle prefer that barren place to the meadows. The guide said, it vvas to avoid a fly which in the heat of the day came out of the woods, and infested them in the vallies. The view of these sands is terrible, as they are hemmed in on each side with very high lulls, but broken into a thousand ir¬ regular shapes. At one end is the ocean, at the other the formidable mountains of Snowdon, black and naked rocks, which 499 FFESTINIOG. FISHGUARD. seemed to be piled one above the other ; the summits of some of them are covered ■with clouds, and cannot be ascended. The grandeur of the ocean, corresponding with that of the mountain, formed a ma¬ jestic and solemn scene ; ideas of immen¬ sity swelled and exalted our minds at the sight: all lesser objects appeared mean and trifling, so that we could scarcely do justice to the ruins of an old castle, situated upon the top of a conic hill, the foot of which is washed by the sea, and which has ev¬ ery feature that can give a romantic ap¬ pearance. The morning being fair, we ventured to climb up to the top of a moun¬ tain, not, indeed, so high as Snowdon, which is here called Moel Gwdion, but one degree lower than that called Moel Hebog, the hill of the hawk, from whence we saw a phenomenon, new to our eyes, but com¬ mon in Wales ; on the one side was mid¬ night, on the other bright day: the whole extent of Snowdon on our left, was wrapt in clouds from top to bottom: on the right the sun shone most gloriously over the sea-coast of Caernarvon. The hillon which we stood was perfectly clear, the way we came up was a tolerably easy ascent; but before us was a precipice of many hundred yards, and below, a vale, which tho’ not cultivated, has much savage beamy ; the sides were steep, and fringed with low wood. There were tw-o little lakes, or rather large pools, which stood in the bottom, whence issued a rivulet which serpentined in view for 2 or 3m , and was a pleasing relief to the eyes.” During the government of Wales by a multitude of princes, war, desolation, and blood was the consequence. Howel, king of N. Wales, was a tyrant. He had two uncles, Iago, who married Helen, whom he, on a trifling pretence cast into prison; and Edvval Vyclian, also, whom he mur¬ dered. Constantine the Black (Cawellyn Dhe) the son of Iago, incensed at this treatment of his father and uncle, raised an army in 979, of Welsh and Danes, in¬ vaded his cousin’s dominions, and ravaged Anglesea. Returning through Caernar¬ von, towards Ffestiniog, his mother Hel¬ en, led the van, and he closed the rear. At the distance of 8m. he had to pass a de¬ file, bounded by 2 mountains, Mynidd Vawr on the r., upon which stood Castle Cedwm, and Moel Elyan on the 1., which narrow passage mr. Pennant justly calls /ry/r rs-s-j- rsf 600 one of the out-guards to the entrance to Snowdon. These are so near each other as to leave but a narrow road for the trav¬ eller, and a bare passage for the river, which runs from the lake Quethlin, at the foot of Snowdon. As Constantine was passing this defile, his cousin Howel, un¬ perceived, let fly an arrow from the top of Castle Cedwm. “Are you wounded?” “ Yes.” “ Then you are a dead man, for the arrow was poisoned.” The news of his death soon reached his mother Helen, in the van, 10m. distant, on which she exclaimed, “ This is a Cross Hour.” The side gate, at which she stood still retains the name of Cross Hour. —Hutton. Near Rhytl Halen is the celebrated hill of Micnanl, on which are the monumental remains of Beddeu gwy Ardudwy. They are almost 6 feet in length, with a small stone at the head, and another at the feet; in number about 30, from 2 to 3 feet high, and 12 inches broad. Near them are still remaining a carnedd and several circles of stones. The Traeth Byclian, or the small sands, are chiefly formed by the riv¬ er which ruus down the beautiful vale of Ffestiniog to Maentwrog and Tan y bwlch, near which place it becomes navigable. Over these sands and Traelh Mavir, [see Harlech] the road leads from Merioneth into Caernarvonshire : a large tract of land has lately been recovered from the sea, on the northern borders of the Traeth Mawr, under the direction of W. Oakley, esq., and a public road is made upon that side, by which a safe communication is opened to Pwlheli and Ncfyn, in the promontory of Llyn, where there is a most advantageous harbour at Forth dyn llyn. The danger¬ ous and uncertain passage of the sands may be avoided, and an easy communication .opened with Ireland. To Tan y-bwlch, 3 miles, Hutlqn. Back to Caernarvon, Bingley. To Ffestiniog, 2 miles. From Newport, Pembrokeshire, 6 miles, Malkin. -St. Davids, 17 miles, (by way of Y Mafrf SiglJ 20 miles, Wyndham. -St. Davids, 16 miles, Barber; Evans; Skrine. Mr. Fenton began his tour in Flintshire at this place, his native district, and in the neighbour¬ hood of Glynamel, his residence. FISHGUARD is situated upon the n. coast of the county of Pembroke, facing the Irish Channel, and nearly opposite to 501 FISHGUARD. 502 Wicklow in Ireland, called Abergwayn, exemplary and eminent in goodness, as from the port formed by the estuary of the river Gwayn. It bore the name of Fish- garth as far back as the time of Richard 2. Garth in saxon and the old language of the law signifies a wear. To no spot of equal extent in the whole county has his¬ tory or tradition annexed fewer memorable events than to this parish, and consequent ly fewer relics to excite the attention of the traveller or the antiquary scarcely any where occur, presenting nothing to the curious eye above the dignity of a bea¬ con. There is indeed in the town a place called in old deeds y Gastell, w hich from it’s situation upon a small tongue of land Commanding the entrance of the harbour, might once have been crowned with an occasional entrenchment. Another place is called Castell Mwrtaeh. About the year T783, was turned up by the plough, an urn of mean pottery, filled with roman copper coins of the lower empire, and a few silvered of Gallienus Tetricus, Post¬ humous, Victorinus, and others of the 30 tyrants. The spot where they were found exhibits not the smallest indication of an ancient camp or roman station. Of em¬ inent men few places have been more unproductive than this. One generation of fishermen, mariners, and traders, have succeeded in an uninteresting series. A single exception only occurs, culled from the regions of antiquity, in the person of St. Dubritius, a man of singular eminence and piety. He was archbp. of Caerleon and metropolitan of all Wales. Prior to his elevation he taught a school upon the banks of the Gwayn. He assisted in the synod of Llandewi Brefi, and withdrew to the island of Bardsey, where he died, a. d. 522. In 1107 his remains were removed by the procurement of Urban, bishop of LlandafF, and re interred in that cathedral. Till the year 1785 no person lived in this parish of sufficient consequence and prop¬ erty to entitle him to supply the office of magistrate. Nor has there been a house fit for the residence of any man above the degree of yeoman. Even the list of it’s clergy exhibits a meagre catalogue of merit. One only in the obscure muster- roll, namely the rev. Robert Price, is dis¬ tinguished. A funeral sermon, on the occasion of his death, contains the follow¬ ing remarkable panegyric. “ This man, in whatever relation we consider him, was far as his circumstances gave him leave. Often has his zeal to serve others outdone his private conveniences. He was oneof the most diligent, painful, and careful stewards that Christ had over his house¬ hold in these parts; at midnight as vvell as mid-day, in the most tempestuous as in calm weather, to the poor as well as the rich, even in offensive sickness, he was ready to execute such good offices as his Lord and Master might expect.” This parish offers no mineral treasure. The species of marble called pudding-stone is abundant in the rocks stretching down to the sea. Within 1m. of Fishguard is a stratum of stone resembling the portland. The cliffs abound with Ligustrum vulgare, and Euonymus europasus. Upon the hill below the church, is great abundance of Sambucus ebulus. Upon the banks of Gwayne grow Nymphaea lutea, Verbena officinalis, and Campanula hybrida.. Nature has supplied this district with a- bundance of pure water. About the year 1781 a fine spring was discovered in the little dingle below the church, which for a time was reported to have extraordinary medical properties. It is however now much neglected, and the house which protected it has fallen to decay. The air of this place is so remarkably salubri¬ ous that it has scarcely ever been visited by an epidemical disorder; even in the time of the plague it escaped the wrath of the destroying angel; for when Newport was unsafe, the market was transferred to Fishguard, where it has remained. On this account it is a matter of surprise, that during the fashion of sea bathing, Fish¬ guard has not been selected and preferred, especially when it’s commodiousness for the purpose is regarded. To this advan¬ tage might be added the cheapness of it’s markets, and the variety and pleasantness of the country. This neglect can be ow¬ ing only to a servile adherence to an old hereditary track, from Cardigan to Haver- fordw'est, lying over dreary hills, leaving a large tract next to the sea, of a far pleas¬ anter character, unvisited, on a supposi¬ tion of saving 2 or 3m. Planting here is neither encouraged nor practised, and the outline of the coast appears cold and unpicturesque. The soil is a happy medium between the heavy and the light, consisting of a good coloured loam, cover- 503 FISHGUARD. 501 ipg a bottom of jlate or loose rab. The principal manure is muck and lime. Up¬ wards of 2000 tons of limestone is annually imported here, and consumed within 3m. of the port. The expense of the lime is about 7s. a ton. Seaweeds afford an abun¬ dant supply, and the poor use no other manure lor their potatoes. The average price of arable and pasture land is 1 1. 10s. per acre, and of meadow land 31. 3s. The fuel used here is principally culm brought from Milfordhaven and Bridcsbay; it is reduced intoacompostwithclay, andcosts 2s. Id. per barrel. Run coal is supplied from Liverpool at the expense of 3s. 4 d. per barrel. The Port of Fishguard is almost the only one from the Mersey to the Severn, the entrance to which is bold and safe, not obstructed by shoals or shift¬ ing sands, called bars. In 1790, a mr. Spence was sent from the board of Admi¬ ralty to survey the bay and harbour and to make an estimate of building a pier there capable of containing 100 sail of merchant men; the estimate amounted to 14,785/. 18s. 5 d. The want of this improvement restricts the number of it’s shipping, yet there are belonging to it not less than 23 vessels from 23 to 30 tons; and 25, from 50 to 100 tons. As the irish packets fre¬ quently put in here not being able to make Milford, it may be enquired whether a nearer communication with the water side might not be formed from the e. than that which exists with Milford. A road from Carmarthen across the hills to this place would produce a shortening of 15m. The extent of the bay from e. to w. is 3m. from n", to s. l|m. and the general depth of water is from GO to 70 feet. The qual ity of the bottom all over the bay is sand mixed with mud. which holds well. The principal exports are oats and butter. The quantity of the former that are annually shipped is about 36,000 winchesters, and of the latter 1000 casks, weighing 741b. each. In this and the adjoining parish are extensive quarries of an excellent slate. The imports are shop goods from Bristol, culm, coal, lime, and timber. The prin¬ cipal vessels belonging to this port are chiefly employed in carrying coal from the coast of Glamorgan, Carmarthen, and Milford to Ireland. The Liverpool fishers who sometimes come here and re¬ turn laden with turbot, john dory, and other fish, say that this bay is equal, if not superior for it’s fishing-banks, to any place from Scotland to the Landsend. The inhabitants are totally regardless of this advantage. Seventeen boats are employ¬ ed in the herring fishery. The salmon fishery here might be turned to a great account if begun as early as at New¬ port, St. Dogmael’s, and other places, which get the start of the market. The average price is Is. 2r l per lb. Fishguard may be divided into the upper and lower towns. The upper, situated upon a con¬ siderable eminence above the harbour, contains the C hurch, Market-place, prin¬ cipal shops, inns, &c.; the lower the natural appendage to the port, occupies the e. side of the river, and following it’s course, partly in a --ingle, and partly in a double row ol buildings, of a considerable length, extending froms. to n. and bound¬ ed by the pier, possesses all the advantages of situation, with respect to trade, and continues to increase. The Church is a mean structure, without tower or spire, containing no dignified memorials of the dead. In the yard there is a rude stone pitched upon one end, and inscribed “ mi¬ serere mm,” without a name. A few yards from the n-e. wall there is a most remarkable echo, very distinct and full. The church was once part of the posses¬ sions of St. Dogmael’s priory, but granted away at the dissolution of religious houses in the time of Henry 8. It is a vicarage of such small value as to have been an object of queen Ann’s bounty. The Baptists have a large meeting-house in this town, and the Methodists have another. The inanimation and indolence of our clergy allow the dissenters to increase rapidly. A Wedding here exhibits a scene of un¬ common gaiety. The vessels in the port display their colours, an old swivel is re¬ peatedly discharged, the happy pair are precededin theirwalk tochurch by a violin or bagpipe, and festivity succeeds. The Funerals want solemnity ; no knell an¬ nounces the stroke of death, no psalm is sung before the corpse, as it is carried towards the church, and an indecent hur¬ ry attends the awful procession. Many people here live to the age of 80 and in some instances to 90 and 100. The style of building here is monotonous and rather mean, yet in it’s aggregate appearance the idea of a large flourishing place is present¬ ed The houses are annually whitewash- 505 FISHGUARD. 506 ed all over, both roof and walls. The streets are proverbially bad, for we say “As rough as Fishguard streets.” The shops here are all upon a small scale and ill supplied with common articles. Ale¬ houses arenumerous.but neitherol theinns haveawine licence. In consequence of re¬ peated alarms from piratical visitors, at the entrance of ihe harbour a Fort is mounted with a battery. It was built at the ex¬ pense of the lare sir Hugh Owen, bart. and a governor has been appointed. A Corps of volunteer fencibles have been raised, under the command of col. Knox, distributed between the townsof Newport and Fishguard. A regular post-office has been established, but the custom-house is distant 18m. at Cardigan, and yet this place does more business than Cardigan and all it’s connections put together. Fish¬ guard is certainly the most central spot both for a custom-house and salt-office, the latter of which is at Haverfordwest. It is hoped that some patriotic mind will effect those purposes, and that it will su peradd the convenience of a market- house. Mr. Knox appears the tutelar genius of the place; it was mr. Knox who obtained a patent for holding a market; it was through the spirited exertion of mr. Knox that a post-office was established; and it is mr. Knox who raised and who commands the volunteer fencibles of this neighbourhood There was an abundant supply of corn in this market previous lothe year 1793; afterwards the forestalling mer¬ chant and avaricious farmer combined to deprive the inhabitants of this district of their wonted supply. The irregularities of weights and measures which prevail here are the same as in many other parts of the kingdom. No two places are gov¬ erned by the same standard, and neither by that which is legal. The prevailing measure is called a strike, consisting of 16 quarts. Many have been the attempts to introduce the Winton measure, but in vain. The persuasive language of reason ind argument has been as unavailing as he rugged tone of authority. The average irice of mutton in Fishguard from the year 1785 to 1795 was 2 $d. per lb., of beef l\urt in front, entered by a gate¬ way, over which are the arms of Urien Rheged. The principal part of the build¬ ing has fallen to decay, and it is reduced to a mere farm bouse. Passing by the Volin Hanoi, or middle mill on the Solva stream (where the Baptist sect, for conve¬ nience of immersion in the river, have a large meeting-house) to Wtiilechurch, or Plwyv y Groes. (the parish of the cross) through which, from some fragments of a roman road yet visible, it is supposed that the Helen Via, or a converging branch, led this way from Mandenum by Vacholich and ihtr ('leivion to Old Alena pi a. The country just passed, tho’ not pictur¬ esque, iru. boast a wealthy and indepen. 615 FISIIGUAR] dent yeomanry. This district, called Pe- bidiawig, or Dcwislatid, was formerly the granary of the see, and still supplies grain of an excellent quality on lower terms than any other part of the country. Every where fertilized and refreshed by abun¬ dant rills of the finest water, to the r. the prospect is enlivened by a view of the sea, it’s bays, and diversified head-lands; on the 1. by an extensive tract inclosed, and under cultivation, where no waste occurs to give an uncheering gloom, bounded in front by the bold rocks of St. Davids, and the islets ; and in the rear by the Presselly hills. Enter upon the sacred precinct of Ty Dwewi, or St. David’s, once the metropolitan see of all Wales. On the direct turnpike road to St. Dav¬ id’s, at a short distance to the r., is Man- ernawen, formerly the seat of John Lewis, esq. This spot has some wood and com¬ fort about it; the rest is a dreary blank. A few miles beyond, you cross Hiog Riv¬ er, which rises at St. Catherine’s and finds it’s way to the western branch of the Clethy. At Marthry, 6m. there is a very considerable fair held on Michaelmas day. At Gorid bridge, 8|m. the traveller will be near the ancient city, but the pinnacles of the great tower do not appear as soon as expected, the church being placed in a deep bog. Within 2m. of Newport, the road pass¬ es close to the remains of several druidic sepulchres or altars. They are all within the space of 60 yards. To St. David’s, 16 miles, Malkin. — Newport, Pemb. 7 miles, Wyndham; Barber; Evans; Skrine. — Haverfordwest, 12 miles. End of Mr. Fenton’s Tour. From Norlhop, 3 miles Bingley. - Holywell, by Downing, 10 miles, Warner. - Holywell, 7 miles, Wyndham; Pennant. - Mold, 6 miles, Skrine- FLINT, the ancient deserted capital of the county, was probably once a roman- british town, being formed on the plan of a roman encampment, rectangular, and surrounded with regular entrenchments, and ramparts with four portae or fortified gates. This is evident from the vast quan¬ tity of roman coins, fibulae, and various instruments, discovered from time to time in the old w r ashes, where they separate ore from antique scoria. At present it 0. FLINT. 5161 bears the appearance of a deserted village The lines of the streets are broken and de- lapidated. Mooring rings are still visible j in some of the remaining walls, which in¬ dicate that when the Dee wound at the foot of the castle, that Flint was a maritime place. It can now only admit small ves¬ sels, capable of taking the ground at the ebb of tide. The great sessions are remov¬ ed to Mold, and the market has been dis¬ continued. In 1801 it contained 309 houses, and 1,169 inhabitants, out of which number 262 are stated as occupied in trade, and 233 in agriculture. Yet, tho’ the place be small, it is not despica- I ble, for many of the haut-ton frequent it as a bathing-place, and it is become a sub¬ sidiary to Parkgate ; but the marshy beach renders bathing sometimes inconvenient. The walls and ramparts have been oblite¬ rated. The Castle stands upon a rock in a marsh upon the s. bank of the Dee. The channel of the river once ran under it’s walls, which are still, at high tides, washed by the waters of the estuary. The time of it’s erection is doubtful. Cam¬ den says it was begun by Henry 2, Leland attributes the undertaking to Edward 1. This fortress wrns taken by surprise in the insurrection during the secession of prince David from the english interest. It was granted to the black prince by Edward 3 ; and in 1385 was bestowed on the infamous Robert Vere, earl of Oxford, by Richard 2. On the attainder of that nobleman, it was subsequently in the possession of Per¬ cy, earl of Northumberland, who basely inveigled the grantor to this fortress, where he put him under the power of the cruel Bolingbroke. The duke afterwards conducted him to Chester, deposing him in that dolorous castle. This captive mon¬ arch was afterwards conducted in proces¬ sion through the streets of London. It does not appear that this fortress fell into the possession of Owen Glyndwr, when he overran most other parts of the princi¬ pality. During the usurpation of Crom¬ well, it was garrisoned for the king by sir Roger Mostyn, but surrendered to the parliamentarian forces, under the com¬ mand of sir William Brereton, and sir Thomas Myddleton, in the year 1643- The building was originally of a paral- lelogramic form, with circular towers at each angle. One detached from the walls seems to have been an additional work. 517 FLINT. FLINTSHIRE. 518 It consists of two concentric circularwalls, each 6 feet thick, including an area be¬ tween them 20 feet in diameter, having a gallery opening into it, with 4 entrances. This is called the Double Tower, and is situated at the s-e. end looking towards the land. The area or court contains about one acre of ground. In the curtain on the w. side are some windows with pointed arches The Barbican consisted of a square tower, originally joined to the cas¬ tle by means of a draw-bridge. In 1283, this place was made a free borough, con¬ sisting of a mayor, 2 bailiffs, and other subordinate officers. It has been privi¬ leged with elective franchise since the 21th year of Henry 8: and in conjunction with Rhyddlan, Overton, Caergwrle,and Gaer- wys, sends one member to parliament. The right of election is vested, in the per¬ sons “paying scot and lot;” but this privi¬ lege has been denied, and rendered du¬ bious by litigation. The Church, a chapel of ease rather to Northop. is an inconsiderable edifice, having a small tower or turret, at the w end, covered with boards. The Guildhall cannot be mentioned as a respectable structure ; but the New Jail, is an instance of Tur¬ ner’s happy architectural skill. It was completed in 1185, including the barba¬ rous plan of solitary imprisonment. The following inscription over the gateway was written by the late Thomas Pennant, esq. In the 25th rear of his mnjestv George 3, in (he sheriffalty of Thomas Hanmer, hart, this prison was erected, instead of the ancient loathsome place of confinement, in pity to the miseiyof even the most guilty, to alleviate the sufferings of lesser offen¬ ders, or of the innocent themselves, whom the chances of human life may bring within these walls. Done at the expence of the county ; aided by the subscriptions of several of the gentry, who in the midst of most distressful days voluntarily took upon themselves part of the burden, in compassion to such of their countrymen on whom fortune had been less bounteous of her favours. Inn, the Royal Oak. Adjoining to Flint is the precinct of Alis cross or Croes Ati, which gave name to the hundred. Tradition states that a large town once existed in this place. In the neighbourhood of Flint, in the hundred of Colcshill, is a wood famous as the scene of action where Henry 2 was twice defeated in one campaign, and where he lost not only many of his princi¬ pal noblemen, but where his own person was in danger. See Wynne, p. 114, edit. 1114. From Flint, mr. Pennant took the road to Halhin ; but quitting the town immedi¬ ately ascended the steep slope of the country; the prospect from the heights to the n-e. are almost boundless. Beneath is the estuary of the Dee, with the city of Chester at it’s extremity, the peninsula of Wiral limits the eastern side of the sea, beyond which stretches the great county of Lancaster, the mountains of Yorkshire and Derbyshire, and the richly wooded track about Northop and Hawarden. This is but part of the magnificent terras form¬ ed bytlie public road, which is continued from Hawarden to Clynnog in Caernar¬ vonshire. About 3m. lurther, in a woody morass, on the 1., are the foundations of Llys Edwyn, originally the seat of Edwin ap Gronw, lord of T-egangle, about the year 1041. A strong british post called Moel y Gaer, soars above the road about 2m. to the r., surrounded by a loss and dike, of a circular form. The road to Hols well runs chiefly along the coast, les low, and is hemmed in on one side by a dismal salt-marsh, and on the other by lulls w liich completely preclude a distant view of the country. The distances are, l jm. Nant y modi; jin. Baghill hall; ljm. Wallwine turn¬ pike; l|in. Holywell. The road to Nokthop lies through a rich and pleasant country, affording views of the channel and opposite lands, and of the Mersey beyond. To Holywell, 5l miles, B'ngley; Skrine. — Park Gale, 4 miles, thence to Liverpool, 8 miles, and back to Chester; \\ arner. — Noithap, 3 miles, Wjnul.am, Pennant. FLINTSHIRE, tho’ of small dimen¬ sions, is an interesting county. It's moun¬ tainous features are less striking than those of Denbighshire, yet it possesses much diversified beauty, numerous re¬ mains, and it's history is important. This portion of the country, when the romans invaded Britain, was included in the ter¬ ritory of the Ordovices, in Britannia se- cuncla. Upon it’s coniines the romans built a small city called Vans, 13m. from Conovium. It is still called Borlyari f (the mansion of Varus) and ruins of the buildings are upon a small bill adjoining. 519 FLINTSHIRE. 520 called Modygacr. The romans left every taining 309 square miles, or 197,760 acres, where vestiges of their invading steps. It contains 1 city, St. Asaph; 1 borough, The fort at Fanulon was, if not a station, the county town of Flint; 5 hundreds; 3 a strong out-post communicating with the other market towns, viz. Mold, Caerwys. head quarters, at Deva (Chester), and and Holywell; 28 parishes; 7585 houses; Varis was a frontier station towards the 39,622 inhabitants, of whom 6989 were interior. C aergwrlc has been conjectured employed in trade and manufactures; and to be another. After the surrender of 10,332 in agriculture; returns 2 members Chester to the arms of Egbert, the whole to parliament, 1 for the county, and 1 for of the present county of Flint was brought Flint; is in the province of Canterbury, under the saxon dynasty. Robbers on a and diocesses of St. Asaph and Chester: large scale, have endeavored to disguise their actions by changing the names of the places they seized. Thus the saxons gave new appellations to towns andvillages, yet the welsh eagerly resumed the denomina¬ tions of antiquity. Thus Hawarden is still known by Pennard; Mold by Wydd- gryg ; and Hope by Estyn. In the years 1054 and 5, this part of the country was laid waste and nearly depopulated, by 2 inroads made by the saxons. Algar, earl of Chester, had fled from the vengeance of Edward the confessor, to whom Gruf- fydd, the reigning prince of Wales, af¬ forded protection. Edward indignant at the insult, sent earl Harold with a large army, which carried with it devastation, burning the prince’s palace at Rhuddlan, and a fleet of ships which lay upon the coast. When the survey of Doomsday book was made by command of the nor- man conqueror, this district appears a part of Cheshire. In the time of Henry 3 this count-y was seized by the crown, and this monarch created his son Edward earl of Chester and Flint, and the suc¬ ceeding kings, when they created their sons heirs-apparent of the crown and princes of Wales, they invested them with the earldom of Chester including Flint¬ shire. Edward 1, ordered Flint to be a territory separately considered. This small county consists of a narrow slip of land running from n-w. to s-e. It is bound¬ ed on the s-e by part of Denbighshire ; on the s-w. by a larger portion of the same county ; on the n. it abuts upon the irish sea : and on the n-e. it is separated from Cheshire by the estuary of the Dee, the ancient ^eteia estuarium of Ptolemy. A detached part belongs to it, some miles distant from the rest, separated by the in¬ terposition of Denbighshire, and almost encircled by Shropshire and Cheshire.] It’s extent is 33m. in length, and about 10 in brtadtli; 115m. in circumference, con- and pays one half of the land tax. Besides the honorial distinctions of earl of Flint and Chester, which it gives to the prince of Wales, it confers that of viscount to the family of Ashburton ; and Greddington is a recently formed barony, for the family of Kenyon. The soil and surface of this county is considerably diversified. The hills generally fall into gentle slope's, descending into fertile vales, through which meander pleasing streams. From the shore of the Dee, the land suddenly rises for 3 or 4m. in fine inequalities of an argillaceous soil, abundantly produc¬ tive in corn and grass. Beyond, in the vicinity of Hallcen, a mountainous tract runs for a considerable extent nearly pa¬ rallel with the river, incalculably rich in minerals, lead, and calamine, interspers¬ ed with immense strata of limestone and chert. The inferior parts produce also limestone, with the superaddition of coal. The n. parts are generally flat, but yield excellent corn and grass. The e. part contains an elevated line forming a bold frontier to the vale of Clwyd, called the Clwydian hills, the summiis of which are Moel Arthur, Moel Fenlli, and Mod y Fam- ma, extending from Prestatyn to the'point of Moel yr Acre, in the parish of Llanar- mon, and Ccfn du in the parish of Gwyddel- wern. No passage opens through this rgnge except at Bodfari, where a road has been formed from Holywell to Denbigh. The soil of these hills is a commixture of clay and gravel; the argillaceous is pre¬ dominant ; and the substrata is calcare¬ ous. No rivers in this county are navigable except the Dee, to which it has but a partial claim. The Clwyd rises in Denbighshire, and passing in a n. direc¬ tion falls into the Irish sea. The Alun ris¬ es in the same county, passes under ground near Mold, and after a singular route, re-enters to form a confluence with the Dee. The contributory streams, which 521 FLINTSHIRE. 522 turn many mills in their course, and afford a variety of fish, are the Terrig, Wheler, Elivy, &c. The Natural Produc¬ tions of this district are multifarious and valuable. The Mineralogy, especially of this part of Britain has been long an in¬ teresting object. Even the romans dis¬ covered the value of this substrata, but their method of detaching minerals Irom their various matrices appears to have been very imperfect. They were besides unacquainted, according to Livy, with the means of blasting. They kindled large fires upon the surface or against the rocks, and by the application of water or some other liquid burst them into numerous fis¬ sures, into which they introduced pick- axes or wedges. Such instruments of un¬ common sizes have been discovered upon the floors of several mineral trenches in this county; and buckets and leaden lamps. Pennant has divided the mineral line of this district into 2 parts, the highland and lowland tracts. The former commences near Diserth, where Dalar goch hangs over the Rhuddlan vale. The course runs s. through the parishes of Cam, Tremeirchion, and Caerwys. The small valley of Bodfari occasions a break ; the line again appears passing through Skcijiog and Nannerch; whence,near Mold it makes a considerable bend through the parish of Northop, and then exhibits it’s front to those of Halkin, Ilulyiccll, It hiieford, Llanasa, Gwaniyscor, and Meliden. The 2d division is separated from the 1st by a deep depression of the previously elevated line of country in the vicinity of Rhos Esmor; and numerous coal and other mines are open in the flat surface, on the w. side of the lower por¬ tion. With Mold mountain the land rises again, and the mineral tract takes a s. course, through the adjacent county of Denbigh. The central and w. parts of the former extending from Dalar goch to Rhos Esmor, consist of calcareous strata, that produce limestone of excellent qual¬ ity, in many instances approaching to sev- eial kinds of foreign marble. On the e. side of this tract the composite matter be¬ gins to alter, changing into a mixed sort of silicious substance, varying, as to de¬ grees of purity, denominated chertz. Be¬ low this, a dark looking shivery shale, becoming friable, when exposed to the atmosphere, commences near Rhos Es¬ mor ; and so far as these decomposable strata occur, in larger, or smaller quan¬ tities, lead ore is found. As the shale appears, freestone is presented, and rich veins of coal lie subjacent at a gteater depth. The coal strata extend to the mar¬ gin of the Dee estuary, and appearing a- gain in the hundred of Wiral in Cheshire ; and further beyond the Mersey. The sud¬ den changes in the strata are strikingly observable; particularly near Nannerch; limestone rocks forming one side of the vale, and ledges, composed of shivery shale, the other opposing declivity. Both the limestone and chert are of unknown depth. The minerals of those tracts, are lead ores of various degrees of value ; La¬ pis calaminaris, and another species of zink. Pseudo-galena, called by the miners, Black Jack, which is now ascertained to be a fair substitute for calamine. This semi-metal was long imported from India, under the name of Tutenag, and the secret of it’s being an ingredient in the compo¬ sition of brass was not known in this country till about the year 17:38. The discovery of it’s being the Catlmia of the ancients aiose from the circumstance of a Portugal vessel laden with calamine being taken by the Dutch, when the arabic ori¬ gin of the term was disclosed. The rich¬ est mine of lead which has been discover¬ ed was at a spot called Pont y Pwll-dwr, on the side of Halkin mountain, which yield¬ ed in the space of 30 years upwards of a million sterling. Minerals are a source of wealth to the land-owner, but often of poverty to the adventurous miner. The whole of the mines and rakes of lead within the hundreds of Coleshill and Rhuddllan were alienated from the crown in the lime of Charles 1, in favour of sir Richard Grosvenor. The coal district extends in a s-e. direction, commencing at Llanasa through the parishes of Whiteford, Holy- well, Flint, and Northop, terminating in Hawarden. The coalienes of Rychton and Mosiyn were discovered in the time of Edward 1; and have been worked for sev¬ eral centuries. Chert, the Petrosilex of Cronstedt, here accompanies the lime¬ stone strata in immense masses or rocks, particularly useful for manufacturing of porcelane and Delft-ware. Limestone is very abundant. Among various kinds of Spars the curious double reflecting species, the Chrystallum, vel spatum Islandicum, is not unfrequently found. Petroleum, or 523 FLINTSHIRE. GL rock oil is often met with in the limestone strata, called by the welsh, v menin tyl- with leg, or fairies’ butter. Among ex¬ traneous fossils are found many of those impressions called subterraneous leaves; supposed by some the remains of antedi¬ luvian plants. They are often lound in sinking new pits, in the slag or cleft over¬ laying the coal; the impressions belong mostly to the genera Polypody. The rare Plants in this county are Anchusa semper- virens; Arenaria verna, upon barren lulls; iEcidium fuseum, in the woods at Downing, supposed by mr. Lightfoot to be a variety of the Anemone nemerosa; Pe- ziza epidindra, has also been discovered. GLAMORGANSHIRE, a county of South Wales, is bounded on the n. by Caermarthenshire and Brecknockshire, on the e. by Mereonethshire, and on the s-rv. by the Bristol Channel. The greatest part of it’s sea-coast swells into a semicircular sweep, but the w. extremity is formed in¬ to a narrow beak, between the open chan¬ nel and an arm running round the Caer¬ marthenshire coast. The county meas¬ ures from e. to w. 48m. from n. to s. at the broadest part only 26; it is in circum¬ ference 125m. It contains 822 square miles; 526,680acres ; and is the furthest territory of the Silures. It is divided into 10 hundreds, i. e. Caerphilly ,Cowbridge, Dinas Powis, Kibber, Llangwelack, Mis- kin, Neath, Newcastle, Ogmore, and Swansea. It comprises the city of Llan- daff, the borough of Caerdiff, 8 market- towns, 118 parishes, 14,762 houses, and 71,525 inhabitants, being 34,190 males, and 37,335 females, of whom 6903, were returned in the census of 1801, as being employed in trade, manufacture, and han¬ dicraft, and 18,515 in agriculture. It re¬ turns 2 members to parliament; i. e. 1 for the county and 1 for Caerdiff. It isinthe province of Canterbury, and diocese of St. David ; in 1806 it paid 561,251 1. prop¬ erty-tax; in 1803, 27,780/. poor’s-rate ; and one part of the land-tax. The name of this county is supposed to be derived from the british Morganuc (Morganwg), Glath morgan, (Gwlad Morgan), and Glad Vor- ganuc (Gwiad Vorganwg), i. e. the coun¬ ty of Morganuc, Irom prince Morgan, or from Morgan abbey. Leland says, “ Giade AMORGANSIIIRE. 521 is in welsh a country or a land, and this province or country is often called Mor- ganhog. I lake Moregan to have the name of More, that is to say the sea, unto the shore whereof it lyeth. The confine of Glamorgan lyeth thus. Remney is the march on the e. side of it. Cremline a lit¬ tle brook is the march of the w. part. The Severne se boundith from the mouth of Remny to the mouth of Gremlin. The rootes of the black mountain marcheth it by n.” iv. 54. The n. part of Glamor¬ ganshire is very mountainous, barren, and thinly inhabited, serving chiefly for the feeding of cattle and sheep. The hills are extremely varied ; in some parts they are absolute rocks, in others full of coal and iron. The roads over the mountains are excessively steep, and strewed with stones, of various sizes, detached from the rocks, by the winter rains. The lower road from Caerdiff through the county is good. Thence to Cowhridge and Margan the distance is divided by mile-stones. There is no where, perhaps, s. of Tweed, a greater air of misery and savageness than among the inhabitants of the Glamorgan¬ shire mountains; being constantly em- ployed in the coal, iron, and copper- works; almost naked, excessively nasty, their long straight hair hanging about their tawny faces. The women outdo the men in hard labour. Their huts are like their stone fences, confusedly piled up and locked together without cement or earth. Various rivers rise in the n. parts of this county, expanding, so as to form a middle district tolerably fit for cultivation, and well cloathed with wood ; terminating in the great levelor vale of Glamorgan. This tract, extending along the sea-coast to 8 or 10m. inland, is rich in corn and pasture, and well stored with treasures of coals, lead, iron, and limestone. The sea-shores are delightful, having a level sand he.ach and romantic cliffs, mostly of marie. Cas¬ tles are planted thickly along the coast and in Gowerland: the former to secure the norman, the latter the english conquests. The air on the n. side is shaip, occasioned by the long continuance of the snow upon the hills; but on the s. side, mild and temperate, improved by the sea hretzes. Ol the rivers, besides the boundary Rum- ney, are the loaf, rising upon Tre Beddw mountain, passing by Merthyr Tydvil, and entering the sea at CaudifF. Upon this 526 525 GLAMORGANSHIRE. GLOCESTER. river, not far from Caerphilly, is Pont y Pridd, supposed to be the largest span of masonry in the world, being 140 feet. The Ely River rises at Kilelly, about 5m. n-w. of Llantrisaint, near which it passes, and falls into the Bristol channel near Pen- narlh. The Ogmore river is formed by the junction of the lesser streams of Ogivrfawr, Ogzvrfach, Ganv and Llinfi, near St. Bride’s minor, passes Bridgend, and falls into the Bristol Channel. The Avon rises upon Cefn mauir, and passing the town of Aber- avon, falls into Swansea Bay. The Neath falls from Breconshire, into the sea below the town called Neath. The Towy or Taive, flows parallel to the Neath, and is received by Swansea bay. The peninsu- lated extremity of the county beyond Swansea, is called Gower. In 1099 Henry Beaumont came into this district against the sons of Caradoc ap Jestin, and won from them large portions of their territo¬ ries. He built the castles of Swansea, Lloughor, Llanridian, and Penrice. The last was erected where Rhys, the son of Caradoc ap Jestin was slain. In this man¬ ner he fortified himself, exercising intol¬ erable oppressions. The inhabitants of this peninsula were probably the same people, whether Flemings or English, as those who had settled in Pembrokeshire. The language of the district, from a very remote period, was English, and their communications with the welsh continues reserved and jealous. A striking resem- blanceexists between Gower and the hun¬ dred of Castle Marlin, in Pembrokeshire, in it’s peninsular form, it’s exposure, soil, climate, sea coasts, and inhabitants. In each of these districts, the soil is chiefly upon the same kind of limestone, similar in quality, and fertility, backed to the n. by rich veins of coal. The buildings in¬ deed are more neat and cleanly than those of Castle Martin, which exceeds Gower in the number of gentlemen’s seats and well-built churches. 1 here are more orchards and more wood in Gower. The w. part of each is nearly destitute of wood. Lloughor Bay is greatly inferior to Milford Haven, as a harbour, from admitting by a wider entrance, a raging sea, especially during the prevalence of s-w. winds. In both countries barley bread is chiefly eat¬ en, tho’ they have wheat of the best qual¬ ity. The sea-cliffs of both districts are grand, frequented by Eligugs and some uncommon birds. Their respective coasts abound with plenty of fish particularly oysters, lobsters, brit, turbot, and soals. The houses are mote generally white¬ washed in Gower. In Castle Martin there are many mud-built houses, in Gower none. The women wear whittles in both countries. In Gower most of the lands are held by that kind of copyhold tenure called Borough English. They are most¬ ly, if not all, freeholders in Castle Martin. —Gough’s Camden ; Malkin’s Tour; &c. Mr. Skrine commenced liis Tour through South Wales at the CoUeswoId-Hills, whence he ar¬ rived at this city. From Ross, itij miles, Barber. - Cheltenham, miles. GLOCESTER, one of the principal cities of England, on the borders of S. Wales, exalts it’s towers and spires with considerable majesty, and appears the proud capital of an extended domain. In the course of a few years, it has swelled into a place of commercial importance, and lost that air of dulness and inactivity which often prevail in tourns undistin¬ guished by trade, and devoted to ecclesi¬ astic institutions. In 1801, it contained 1368 houses, and 7579 inhabitants. It’s situation, however, tho’ it affords a fine ob¬ ject to the hills around, is far from pleas¬ ant, for buried in the plain, it is too far distant from either termination to partake of much variety of country, and tho’ it’s walls are washed by the Severn, that river loses at Glocester much of it’s dignity by being divided into two moderate channels with a long connecting causeway. It’s streets are regular and well-formed, dis¬ tinguished by handsome public buildings. A very respectable hospital, and one of the most complete goals in England, stand foremost among these; but the cathedral alone is sufficient to repay a traveller’s curiosity in visiting Glocester. Without, it’s lofty tower and four transparent pin¬ nacles adorned with exquisite fiet work, make a conspicuous figure; within, the high roof and gothic ornaments of the choir, form a noble contrast with the sim¬ ple grandeur of the ponderous saxon pil¬ lars and arches which support the aisle.— Skrine. The area upon which it stands is both spacious and neat, which circum¬ stance gives the building considerable ef- 528 527 GLOCEiTER. feet and dignity. Several of the english cathedral churches are degraded by mean contiguous buildings, and the architectural excellence of them.is obscured and lost. The prevailing better taste of the present age has. however, removed such obstacles in a few instances, and in others it has been discovered in extending the area in which they stand. Salisbury may be men¬ tioned as a striking instance of this kind of improvement, and Winchester of it’s de¬ ficiency. The rich benedictine Ab¬ bey at Glocester was remarkable for it’s magnificent church, which even the un¬ sparing hand of reformation respected, and converted to the cathedral of the new¬ ly formed see. Successive centuries ad¬ ded to it’s architectural splendour. At present this structure is a fine example of the various styles of saxon, norman, and english architecture ; and particularly of the latter. Happily for the admirers of ecclesiastic architecture, the eras of the erection of the principal parts arc known. The lower part of the nave, the chapels which surround the choir, and thecript, are presumed to have belonged to the building erected by bishop Aldred, before 1089; the roof of the nave obtained it’s finishing and form in 1248. In 1310 the s. aisle was begun and part of the s. tran¬ sept was added in 1330. The building of the n. transept and choir commenced a- bout the same year; the latter was com¬ pleted in 1457. Between the years 1351 and 1390, the elab"ra'e cloisters were finished. The chapel of our lady, and the centre tower, were the next additions; the former being built between the years 1457 and 1497; and the latter between the years 1457 and 1518. Tire gen¬ eral face of this cathedral is similar to most others ; the interior consists of a nave, choir, side aisles, and transepts, with a chapel of our lady, and several other chapels, or oratories. From the intersec¬ tion of the nave and transepts risqs a high tower, and on the s side is a piojecring porch. The roof is sustained by 28 col¬ umns, which extend in 2 rows Ironi the w. end to the high altar, where the pres¬ bytery forms nearly a semicircular sweep: the transepts have no isolated pillars. The Chapel of Our Lady is, as usual, attached to the presbytery ; and there are chapels in the n-e. and s e. angles of the transept and choir, with 2 others projecting m the sweep between those and the chapel of our lady. The outline, or ground plan of the cathedral, is probably the same at pres¬ ent as designed by bishop Aldred previ¬ ous to the year 1089; and the crypt re¬ mains almost as perfect as the masons left it. The architecture of this subterrane¬ ous and gloomy place is massy, and suited to the immense weight resting on the’arches, which are turned upon huge short pillars, and strengthened by groins of proportionate solidity. The nave is an interesting specimen of the style which continued to prevail for nearly two cen¬ turies after the norman conquest. The arcade of ponderous round columns, and the rows of semicircular arches above, impress the mind wit h ideas of the strength, solidity, and profound solemnity, which have accompanied it’s original state. The architecture of the w. end is very differ¬ ent from the other parts of the nave ; and the vault is covered by intersecting ribs and ornamented key stones; hut the re¬ mainder is of the plainest description, with 3ribs only to each pillar; yet the key-stones are carved. On each side are 8 massive columns ; the arches between them are bounded by large mouldings, carved into zig-zags, and other ornaments: directly over each column and at some distance, is a range of heads of various characters; some serene, and others ter¬ rific ; these serve as brackets to clusters of short pillars, the capitals of which dis¬ play the most beautiful variety of foliage, on which zig-zag strings extend, serving as a base to other clustered pillars with equally elegant capitals; from those the ribs of the vault commence. The gallery windows, pierced through the wall above the arches, are divided by short thick pil¬ lars, and hounded by others with zig zag arches; a twisted string separates them from the clerestory windows. The n. and s. aisles of the nave are nearly in the style of the w. end, with pointed windows, rich ramifications in the arches from the mul- lions, and filleted vaults. The arth of entrance to the cloisters from the n. aisle, is most elaborately and exquisitely adorn¬ ed by pillars, buttresses, niches, pinna¬ cles, foliage, panncls, and the singular ornament of twisted pinnacles under the arch. In the s. aisle, nail-headed mouldings are introduced as embellish¬ ments on each side of the windows. An 530 529 GLOCESTER. advanced gradation of style is exhibited in the interior of the s. transept; but the most perfect and ornamental degree is displayed in the choir and chapel of our lady. The choir is divided from the nave by a Skreen, designed by Kent, who, as mr. Dallaway justly observes, “ was praised in his day for what he little understood.” This, with the organ above it, a party-coloured and gaudy instrument, are injudicious intruder-, which obstruct the view of the grand east window. The same author remarks, that “ it is hardly possible to enter the choir, which includes every perfection to which the Gothic had attained during the 15th century, without feeling the influence of veneration. At the termination of the nave, under the tower, is the approach to the choir; and above the great arch is a window between two vacant arches, richly sculptured. On the n. and s. sides are the arches which sup¬ port the vaulting of the transepts. Both these are intersected at the springing by a flying arch, with open spandrils, each spanning the space of the tower. The brackets are figures of angels, with es¬ cutcheons of the abbey, Edward 2, and the munificent Abbot Sebroke. the found¬ er. Upon the exact point of these inter¬ secting arches, is a pillar forming an im¬ post of the great vaulted roof, which is then divided into sharp lancet arcades, and has an air of incredible lightness. From this part there are 5 more arcades, divided by clusters of semi-columns, which reach from the base to the roof; and the ribs are infinitely intersected and variegat¬ ed with the most elaborate trellis work, composed of rosettes, which, although thickly studded, are not repeated in a sin¬ gle instance. Over the high altar are an¬ gels in full choir, with every instrument ot music practised in the 15th century. On each side are 31 stalls of rich taberna¬ cle work, carved in oak, little inferior, in point of execution, to the episcopal throne at Exeter, or those at Windsor, erected in the reign of Edward 4, and allowed to be some of the finest pieces of gothic carving in England. The two furthest arcades dilate about a yard from the right line, in¬ stead of forming a section of a hexagon and are connected with the great f. win¬ dow, which is imbowed in a slight degree, and occupies the whole space of the end of the choir.” The dimensions are sup¬ posed to be greater than those of any other window in England ; the glass occupies a space of 78 feet, 10 inches, by 35 feet, b inches. “ The arch has 3 chief divisions, or mullions, terminating eliptically, the middle of which includes 7 tiers of stained glass, now so extremely decayed and mu¬ tilated, as to appear like the tissue of a carpet.” This magnificent window is in a sad state of dilapidation. The present Altar-Piece, which is of the Co¬ rinthian order, and in a very bad taste, exhibits it’s usurping front to the exclu¬ sion of the rich tracery of the original High Altar, which isconcealcd from view, excepting from the side galleries of the choir. “ The pavement before the altar is composed of painted bricks, representing the devices of Edward 2d, of the Clares, and De Spencers, earls of Glocester, and of Abbot Sebroke; these are imagined to have been prepared for the kiln by the monks, who have displayed ingenuity, taste, and accuracy, in the scrolls, rebuses, and armorial bearings. The passages and oratories by which the choir is surround¬ ed, are all of saxon, or at least of early norman architecture. The choir is con¬ structed within them ; the side walls, and low circular pillars, having been reduced, and the whole lined with facings of ele¬ gant pannels. These are placed within arcades of semi mullions, resembling win¬ dows, which are open to the choir, from the galleries before mentioned. During the grand ceremonies of the church, the females of superior rank surveyed them from above.” The pillars and arches of those aisles or passages are of such gigan¬ tic mould in breadth, (tho’ not equally so in height,) that eternal duration seems to have been attempted by the architect. Equally strong and durable are those of the Whispering Gallery, which is men¬ tioned by lord Bacon as being very remark¬ able. It is 75 feet in length, and forms 5 sides of an octagon ; but the reverberation of sounds was most probably the effect of mere accident. On the left side are the remains of an altar, of rough stone, at which the abbot and others are supposed to have stood to witness the celebration of mass withinthe chapel of our lady; and on the centre of the wall of the passage, the following lines are inscribed : Doubt not but God who sits on high, thy sectet prayers can hear, 532 531 GLOCESl'ER. when a dead wall thus cunningly conveys soft whispers to the ear. In the gallery of the s. transept is a curious and very ancient painting of the Last Judgment, which was discovered some years ago behind the wainscoting in the nave, when the seats were removed. It has probably been an altar-piece, and con¬ cealed at the time of the Kelormation. Part of the n. transept is inclosed by a wall pierced into a door, and two windows of great beauty : those afforded admission and light to the refractory inmates of the monastery, who were imprisoned within this apartment, as the gratings still evince; it is now used as a vestry. The inte¬ rior of the Chapel of Our Lady, a continu. ation of the choir, is peculiarly rich and fascinating ; but the effect is greatly in¬ jured by the introduction of the present altar-piece, which is utterly unsuitable to it’s situation. An unmeaning, opake, stuccoed glory, under the inconceivable bright tints of the beautiful e. window, is a wretched substitute for the elegant or¬ naments, pannels, and tabernacle-work, concealed by it. When the view from the nave was uninterrupted, the coup d’ceil must have been infinitely splendid; and the eye dazzled by the brilliant colours of the painted glass, which represents our Saviour surrounded by kings, prelates, and abbots. The figures arc 37 in num¬ ber, yet every attitude is judiciously va¬ ried. The roof of this chapel is one grand pointed arch, indented on the sides by the arches of the windows ; a centre rib, with one on each side, extend e. and w.; 7 others diverge from each column, and intersecting throughout the surface of the whole vault, form a vast variety of lozen¬ ges, radii, and angles, which are bound together by fillets : the variety of the ro¬ settes, flowers, foliage, and scrolls, which cover the intersections, is truly wonder¬ ful. The side chapels, or chantries, have ceilings of profuse decoration: they each contain twelve circles, with centre flow¬ ers, the intervals of which are full of tra¬ cery ; between them are quatrefoils in circles, and the ascending arches are cov¬ ered by nets of enriched pannels. The entrance ol the chapel of our lady is fronted by a most beautiful Screen, pierc¬ ed into a number of cinquefoiled divisions, with ornaments of quatrefoils interspers¬ ed ; a seat, or basement, exactly similar to a tuscan pedestal, encircles the chapel; the sides of the porch above this are par- i tially pierced into windows, containing 3 rows of horizontal quatrefoils, making the same number of divisions in height: frag¬ ments of painted glass canopies are left in the ornamented arches: the extreme lines | of these windows are formed by pillars into 4 narrow pannels, which were filled by 8 niches; two of them are destroyed on the n. side, by the mural monument of sir John Powell; the pedestal and canop¬ ies are of the most exquisitely pierced foliage and pannels, but the statues are entirely gone. The ceiling of this grand porch has a cross of rich pendants, sur¬ rounded by the most elaborate ribs, judi¬ ciously intersected. The w. end consists of one superb arch above the porch, the base of which is a string of 11 ovals, filled with foliage and blank shields; the sides have each a pannel and niche ; and the architect has pierced the great space with¬ in the above out-line into 42 trefoiled arches, of unequal sizes. Behind the screen is an elegant Chapel or Oratory. Five columns on each side, 3 in a cluster, form the length of the chapel; every col¬ umn is adorned by 2 narrow pannels, each of which contains a cinquefoil pan¬ nel at it’s base, and 3 niches, with carya- tide busts of angels, bearing scrolls, ori¬ ginally inscribed with the names of the saints above them ; the minuteness and elegance of the ornaments of this part of the design are extremely interesting. Here are 6 windows, 3 on each side, glaz¬ ed ; but one on each side the altar serve as screens to the chantry chapels before mentioned : the spaces under the windows abound in the delicately sculptured deco¬ rations peculiar to the florid style; nor are the windows less attended to; the divisions are very numerous, and those of the arches are again subdivided in the most graceful manner. On the s. side of the altar are 3 seats for the officiating priests; 4 buttresses, exquisitely fluted, and enriched with foliage, inclose and support 3-sided canopies with indented trefoil arches, from each corner of which small clustered columns ascend to a cor¬ nice, forming 8 arches, finely indented, and a diminutive colonnade; the ceilings of the canopies are covered with slender ribs, which arise from pillars not larger than a wand ; the piscina is quite perfect, 533 GLOCESTER. 534 upon abcautiful pedestal. The floor of the porch and chapel is paved with painted tiles ; but numerous ancient and modern coverings of graves have demolished a very considerable part of them ; those which remain are generally much worn : several tiles form a circle filled with a cinquefoil and roses of yellow and dark brown colours; imperfect inscriptions yet remain of Ave Maria mater pte Demine Jew . ; some of the figures are a crown, with I. H. S.; others, broken shields of arms. The greatest exterior ornament of this fabric is the Centre Tow¬ er. During the 15th century, in which the gothic style of architecture attained it’s greatest perfection, and hastened to it’s decline, w as the area of many of the most beautiful of the towers remaining. In point of symmetry, if not for height and ornament, the tower of this cathedral is.equal to those of Canterbury, York, and Wells. It's open battlements and pinna¬ cles are richer than either of those now mentioned. The full effect of their ele¬ vation and magnificence are seen to the greatest advantage by moonlight. That at Taunton is of the same era, and the similarity is striking. The frequent de¬ molition of the statuary, which added very much to the external enrichment of eccle¬ siastic buildings, by the rage of fanatics, is subject of great regret. Those of the continent, being chiefly of marble, have escaped both the decomposition occasion¬ ed by climate and the frenzy of party. This tower is divided into 2 stories, and surmounted with 4 elegant pinnacles, perforated into numerous small arches, and terminated with foliated fineals. The summit is additionally embellished with open worked battlements. Each story or compartment of the tower has 8 windows, richly ornamented with sculptured fineals. The buttresses at the angles are also em¬ bellished with attached pinnacles, niches, and other ornaments. Between the s. transept and porch are 6 buttresses, which are detached from the wall at bottom, and are ornamented with canopies, niches, statues, and purfled pinnacles. Each abut¬ ment had originally 3 statues ; but out of the 18 there are only five remaining. One ol these, contiguous to the transept, repre¬ sents a king, and is esteemed a fine speci¬ men of sculpture. The South or Entrance Porch is equally profuse in ornament with the tower ; and from the style of it’s pin¬ nacles, perforated battlements, niches, &c. it appears to have been erected about the same period. The w. front contains a large central window, lighting the nave, with two latteral windows, opening res¬ pectively into the n. and s.aisle. Beneath the former is a small entrance door-way, and another leading to the n. aisle. In the spandrils of the first are the arms of the Sec, and the arms of England. Over this door-way is a gallery before the great win¬ dow with a quatrefoil open ballustrade. Attached to the central mullions of the window ate 2 open abutments and the top of the window is adorned with a profusion of tracery. This Cathedral contains several interesting specimens of Monu¬ mental Sculpture. The tomb of Edward the second, erected by his son and suc¬ cessor, near the high altar, is, probably, the most ancient piece of sculpture in England, which exhibits such perfection of art. On the tomb, beneath a modern canopy, consisting of 3 arches of 2 stories, interlaced with minute tabernacle-work, is a recumbent figure in alabaster, of the deceased Monarch, regally robed, and crowned. The head is supported by 2 angels ; the right hand bears a sceptre, and the left supports an orb or globe; on the side of the tomb are 3 arches in recess, and 4 smaller ones, all of which have had statues; on the spandrils of the former are 6 shields: on the rails of the tv. side are the arms of England, with those of Oriel CoP lege, Oxford, and an inscription dictated by the society of that foundation, who re¬ paired this monument in 1737. The cap¬ itals of the two pillars, between which the tomb is situated, were then painted with a number of white stags upon a red ground; a circumstance which has given rise to a vulgar report, that the body of the murdered King was drawn from Berkeley Castle to Glocestcr by those animals. Rys- brach, by w hom this monument w as vis¬ ited with professional veneration, suppos¬ ed itto have been executed by some sculp¬ tor who flourished in that age in the n. of Italy. Another monument entitled to distinct notice, is that to the memory of Alderman Blackleach, and his wife, whose figures, in white marble, lie on a table tomb, dated 1639 and seem accurate cop¬ ies of the portraits of Vandyck : they are evidently the work of a skilful artist. As 535 GLOCESTER. 536 they are of much better execution tlian any of those acknowledged by Nicholas Stone, they may have been the work of Francesco Fanelli, whose statues in bronze at St. John’s-collcge, Oxford, and in West¬ minster abbey, were justly admired in the reign of Charles 1, during which he left Florence to find employment in England. A third monument, deserving observation, for it’s design, and classic simplicity, dis¬ plays a group, (one of the earliest efforts of Flaxman), erected to the memory of mrs. Morley, who died at sea, in child¬ bed. She is represented as rising from the waves with her infant in her arms, and conducted by 2 angels. In the s. aisle is an ancient tomb, commonly ascribed to Humphrey Bohun, earl of Hereford, and his lady : this earl died in the year 1367 ; but mr. Gough observes, in his “ Sepul¬ chral Monuments,” that “ it does not suit any earl of Hereford that we know ; un¬ less we suppose it to have been removed thither at the dissolution from the adjoin¬ ing Monastery of Lanthony, where many of that noble family were buried; and this, from the form and style of the arch and it’s niches, does not seem likely.” Be¬ tween the n. aisle and the choir is the monument erected by abbot Parker, to perpetuate the memory of king Osric, with the following inscription on the wall above. Osricus Rex, primus Fundater hu- ous Monasierii, 681. In a Chapel nearly opposite, is a figure carved “ in Irish oak,” and inclosed by a wire lattice, supposed to represent the unfortunate Robert Curtois, or Curthoise, duke of Normandv, and eldest son of Wil¬ liam the Conqueror. This nobleman died in 1134, afteran imprisonment of 26 years in Caerdiff Castle and was buried in the choir of this church : he is delineated in armour, with the legs crossed. Many other memorials of the interment of ab¬ bots, bishops, and distinguished persons, are distributed through this edifice. The Great Bell, in the first story of the centre tower, is supposed to weigh 6500 pounds; round it are these words, “ Me fecit fieri Muhcutus nomine Fetn;” it’s diameter at the bottom is 5 feet 10 inches. The prospect of the surrounding country from the summit of the tower, is exceedingly extensive, and for rural beauty scarcely to be paralleled The Great Cloisters, begun by Thomas Horton and completed by abbot Froucester, are the most elegant and perfect of the kind in England. The external w. wall extends in a line from the first n. pillar of the nave, and returns to a wall continued from the w. side of the n. transept. The sides and roof of the cloisters are profusely embellished, and the windows are filled with mullions and tracery. Two semi-arches, in radii of pannels, springing from each sine, meet in the centre, leaving lozenges in the spaces between each pair; those are filled by foliaged pannels and circles. The arches of the windows are formed by oth¬ ers, which rest on clustered pillars: the number of mullions in the windows vary, but the divisions are enriched by cinque¬ foils ; and the tracery in the arches afford a beautiful variety of oval pannels and quatrefoils, all of which are glazed ; the walls below the windows are variously adorned by pannels and large recesses. On the n. side of the cloisters are several neat Lavatories near the site of the Refec¬ tory, which was the only part of the build¬ ings belonging to the Cathedral, demolish¬ ed by the Republicans. These Lavatories consist of S arcades; and opposite to them is the Sudatory, or place where the nap¬ kins were hung, consisting of 2 arcades. On the s. side are 20 distinct places, or seats, where it is said the monks used to sit and write before the invention of print¬ ing. Of Gloucester cathedral, an in¬ telligent anonymous tourist remarks, “ as to the interior every spectator will be sat¬ isfied with it’s neatness and appropriate solemnity. Yet there are several altera¬ tions which will immediately occur to the man of taste as tending to increase the characteristic simplicity and uniformity of the whole. The first object to be remov. ed is the Skrecn, so capriciously designed by Kent, which is more Chinese tiian gothic. After what has been done at Sa¬ lisbury and Windsor, w r c may readily con- jectuie w'ith what advantage the same judgment and taste might be employed in other churches, which have suffered in nearly an equal degree from w hat has been called “beautifying,” as from barbarous mutilation.” —The Athenxum, vol. ii. p. 224. The College Library is entered through a door in the e. vvalk of the clois¬ ters ; the sides of the room have several strong taxon pillars, and from those there 537 GLOCE ire large ribs, which cross tbe plain pointed roof, partially ornamented next the great window by intersections of other ribs: be¬ tween each great pillar are niches sepa¬ rated by small saxon columns, supporting semicircular arches. This room was for¬ merly the Abbey Chapter-House; but was converted into a Library by sir Matthew Hale, and others, in the reign of queen Mary; when the mayor and burgesses were appointed it’s guardians. In 1688, mr. Wheeler, then master of the College School, began to stock it with books; it was, however, but an indifferent collec¬ tion, till the late worthy dean Tucker made a bequest to the library of a more valuable assemblage. The Colicge School , intended originally for the instruction of youth belonging to the choir, and found¬ ed by Henry 8, is held in an apartment over the Audit Room, at the end of the n. transept. It is now under the direction of a master and one usher. The Lesser Clois¬ ters are supposed to be coeval with the an¬ cient parts of the church attributed to bishop Aldred, but improved by the more modern mullioned arches : the Hegistrar’s Office for proving wills, granting marriage licences, &c. is held at the e. entrance : and at the w. entrance is the Episcopal Palace; this has undergone much alter¬ ation under bishop Benson, who expend¬ ed large sums in modernizing it, particu¬ larly the great Hall, the end window, and the Chapel: a tablet of marble has been recently placed over the chimney in the former, which records a visit from their Majesties in the year 1788. The College Green is an irregular space, partially shad¬ ed by short avenues of lime trees, and sur¬ rounded by the Deanery and Prebendal Houses. The Deanery adjoins the Ca¬ thedral on the n. ; it’s exterior displays ■ specimens both of circular and pointed arches. King James, says Rudder, resid¬ ed in this mansion during the time he was at Glocester, “ and in the afternoon of the day after his arrival, touched 103 persons in our lady’s chapel for the king’s evil.” The H alls were completely demolished soon after the Restoration ; and the only memorial of the former strength of the for¬ tifications now remaining, is the West Gate: this is imbattled; and was erected in the time of Henry 8. It stands on the banks of the Severn, at the end of a stone bridge, of 5 arches, built over that river 1STER. 538 during the reign of Henry 2. The bridge connects on the w., with a causeway of stone, called Over’s Causeway, which ex¬ tends through the low meads across the Isle of Alney, to the distance of about £m: in different parts of it, 36 arches have been constructed, which serve as bridges to admit the waters to flow off the meadows The Castle at Glocester, of which the last remains were destroyed a few years ago, to make room for the County Gaol, was probably erected about the period of the norman invasion, as the Domesday Book records, that “ 16 houses were ta¬ ken down for it’s site. Camden mentions it as being constructed of hewn stone ; tho’ in his time it was “ for the most part decayed.” This castle was anciently held by the earls of Glocester, but afterwards became vested in the crown. The keep had long been appropriated as a prison : yet becoming ruinous, and being inmost respects improper, commissioners were appointed to erect a new Gaol; and a grant of the castle lands was obtained from his present Majesty for that purpose. Soon afterwards, the building of the gaol was commenced, from the designs, and under the direction of sir George Onesi- phorus Paul, hart , whose indefatigable attention to the interests of society, asex- explificd in the plan of this structure, and a code of laws drawn up for it’s govern¬ ment, merits the most unlimited approba¬ tion. The Gaol consists of 3 divisions, respectively named, the Penitentiary House, the Bridewell, and the Sheriff’s Prison; these have all their distinct and appropriate regulations. It contains 203 separate cells; 160 for sleep, and 39 for employment. At stated hours, during the day, the prisoners are allowed to enjoy the fresh air in a court-yard, 210 feet in length, and 57 broad, having a colonnade at each end, to shelter them from bad weather ; the same class of prisoners only are permitted to associate together. The whole internal economy is under the management of the Chaplain, Gov¬ ernor, and Surgeon, whose attention is regulated by certain rules, and who are themselves subjected to the con¬ trol of the county magistrates. This build¬ ing was opened for the reception of prison¬ ers in the year 1791: the expense of com¬ pleting it, and of 4 Houses of Correction, that were erected about the same time in 539 GLQCESTER. 540 different parts of the county, amounted to Henry 8, and now under the superinten- 34,873/. 14s. 4rf. In the city and dance of a master and usher. Every 4 suburbs of Glocester were formerly 11 years, a scholar is sent from this school to Parochial Churches, but those only of St. Pembroke College, Oxford, to be there Michael, St. Mary de Crypt, St. Nicholas, maintained for 8 years, on the foundation St. Mary de Lode, St. John’s, and St. Al- of George Townsend, esq., instituted in date, are now standing; the remainder the year 1693. St. Nicholas’s Church is an having been either destroyed at the siege ancient structure, situated on the n. side in 1643, or since taken down. St. Mich- of West-gate street, and consisting of a ael’s Church consists of 2 aisles of unequal nave and aisles. At the w. end was a lofty dimensions, with a square tower at the spire, the upper part of which was pulled •w.end: previous to the reformation, here down a few years ago, in consequence of were 3 chantries. In this parish a Blue it’s decayed and dangerous state. Coat Hospital, (so called from the habits Near West-gate bridge, in this parish, is resembling those of Christ Church, Lon- St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, aneatandcon- don,) in the East-gate-street, was founded venient structure, erected about the year by sir Thomas Rich, bart., who, in the 1786, for the residence of 26 men, and 30 year 1666, left a house and 6000/. for the women. Each inmate has a separate apart- purchasc of lands, the rents of which 160/. ment, and 2s. 6d. with some other aids, per annum, were to be applied for the weekly, for maintenance. This building perpetual maintenance, educating, andap- occupies the site, and is chiefly supported prenticing of 20 boys. St. Mary de Crypt by the revenues, of an ancient Priory, the consists of a nave, side aisles, and tran- date of the foundation of which is uncer- sept, with a neat tower, having pinnacles, tain. St. Mary de Lode Church is situated and other ornaments, rising from the in- near the west-gate of the College, in the tersection : the e. end is also finished with centre of a square area. It is an ancient pinnacles. Within it, among other monu- structure, but has been injudiciously re- ments, is the tomb of sir Thomas Bell, paired, without regard to the prevailing bart., who died in the year 1566, after style, which is saxon. The inside displays having founded and endowed a neighbour- some saxon arches : and the western en- ing Alms-House, for 6 poor persons, trance is through a semi-circular arched Near this church are the remains of a door, with 3 mouldings. In the n. wall Monastery of Black Friars, founded, about of the chancel is the ancient tomb and ef- the year 1239, by Henry 3, and Stephen, figies assigned by tradition to king Lucius, lord of Harneshull. The site of this house, but more probably the monument of some with other lands, was granted to the above contributor towards the building of the sir Thomas Bell by Henry 8, in considera- church. St. John’s is a modern building, tion of the sum of 24U/. 5s. 4 d. A consid- consisting of a nave and aisles, occupying erable part of the Friars’ Church, now the site of an ancient church, asGribed to converted into tenements, is yet standing, king Athelstan. In this parish, but about The remains of a Priory of Grey Friars, half a mile n. from the city, is St. Marga- founded by one of the lords of Berkeley, ret’s Hospital, founded originally for lepers, are also situated within this parish. The but at what period is uncertain. The per. buildings were greatly damaged during sons now supported here, are 8 poor men, the siege in 1643; but the walls of the a reader, &c. The annual allowance to Church are yet entire. The mansion, fit- each is about 5 guineas. Near this Hospi- ted up from the remains of this Priory, was tal is that of St. Mary Magdalen, or King the residence of Judge Powell, a native of James’s, which owed it’s foundation to this city, whose integrity, and knowledge the Priory of Lanthony, and, like the for- of the laws, were the means of his pro- mer, was originally intended for persons motion to the dignified station which he afflicted with leprosy. The present es- held. He died in the year 1713, and lies tablishment consists of 9 women and 10 buried under a costly monument in the men, each of whom are allorved 18 pence Cathedral. On the w. side of the church- weekly. St. Aldate’s, or St. Eldad’s, now yard is Crypt Grammar School, founded and a chapel, is a neat modern fabric, endowed by dame Joan Cook, in pursu- Among the other benevolent establish- anceof her husband’s will, in the 31st of ments which confer honor on the inhabi- 542 541 GLOCESTER. tants of Glocester, may be mentioned the County Infirmary, and the House of Indus¬ try. The former was built by voluntary contributions, and opened in the year 1755. The medical gentlemen connected with this institution, attend gratuitously ; through this circumstance, and the gener¬ ous subscriptions of individuals, the bene¬ fits of this charity have been extended to upwards of 22,000 persons. The annual receipts arising from voluntary donations, and the interest of funded property, a- mount to between 2000 and 3000/. The House of Industry was established in the year 1703, with intent to rescue the idle and profligate from the influence of vici¬ ous habits, and to enable them to exert their abilities for their own use, and to the advantage of the community. The management is directed by 24 governors, who have full power to oblige the able to work, both by rewards and punishments : the regulations for this purpose arc ex¬ tremely judicious, and generally effectu¬ al, without the aid of the latter. The chief employment is the making of pins : those who execute more than the propor¬ tion allotted them, have the redundant profits for their own use. The prin¬ cipal Trade of Glocester results from the navigation of the Severn, and from the Pin Manufacture. The Severn is navigable to the wharf near the bridge, for trows ; but vessels of more considerable burthen can only get up at spring tides, the narrow channel of the river near the city being obstructed by rocks and sand banks. To remedy this inconvenience, a canal was projected, and commenced, between Berkeley and Glocester, sufficiently capa¬ cious to admit the passage of ships of 400 tons burthen. But war, the common ene¬ my of the human race, has prevented the accomplishment of this great design ; on which 120,000/. has already been expend¬ ed, and only 4m. out of 17jj completed. A Bell-Foundry was established in this city before the year 1500; and about that time, was conducted by William Hanshaw, who served the office of mayor 4 times be¬ tween 1500 and 1520: for the last 150 years, this business has centred in the Rudhall family, who, in that period, have cast upwards of 3000 bells. The Clothing Trade, from which the inhabitants of Glo¬ cester formerly derived their chief sup¬ port, is now completely lost; one fulling mill only remains. The principal tradesmen of Glocester are associated into 12 Companies: that of the Mercers, in¬ cludes apothecaries, grocers, and chand¬ lers; the Smiths, and Hammer-men, in¬ clude iron-mongers, cutlers, sadlers, and glaziers; to the Metal-men, belong gold¬ smiths, braziers, pewterers, and pin-mak¬ ers : the remainder are distinct, and con¬ sist of weavers, tanners, butchers, bakers, joiners, and coopers ; shoemakers, taylors, barbers and glovers. The public business of the city is transacted in the Tholsey, an appellation supposed to have been derived from the Tol; which was received in it, by the lords of the manor, from the fairs and market. The present building was erected about the latter end of the reign of George 2, but has since been altered. The Booth Hull, situated behind the inn of that name, and appropriated to the hold¬ ing of the assizes, and other county busi¬ ness, is an ancient building; the exterior contains 2 ranges of timber pillars, appa¬ rently of the time of Elizabeth. Very considerable improvements in the appearance and buildings of this city, have been made within the last fiO years. The streets are now well paved and lighted ; and various edifices, orprojections, which obstructed the free passage of carriages, have been removed. Formerly the hous¬ es were chiefly of timber, which at sever¬ al periods occasioned the destruction of a large proportion of the city by accidental fires : they are now principally of brick. From the intersection of the 4 chief streets, the buildings occupy an easy descent each way, a circumstance that greatly contrib¬ utes to health and cleanliness. The city receives it’s supply of water from springs which arise on lord Sydney’s estate at Matson, about 2m. southward; and, as appears from ancient records, an aqueduct was carried thence to Glocester, for the same purpose, upwards of 400 years ago. The public amusements are similar to those of most other respectablecitics; and recreation is sought in the attractions of a Theatre, Assembly Rooms, &c. A mere local amusement, connected with the pur¬ poses of benevolence, is the Musical Festi¬ val, established by the members of the choirs of Glocester, Worcester, and Here¬ ford; but aided latterly by the first per¬ formers in the kingdom. The profits are applied to relieve the necessities of the 543 GLOCESTER. 544 widows and orphans of clergymen; and arise from collections made at the Cathe¬ dral door, where the Festival is celebrated. The meetings are held yearly, and alter¬ nately, in each of the above mentioned cities, and continue for 3 days. Taylor the water poet was born here, 1580, and Whitefield in 1714; the latter was son of an inn-keeper.—Granger, ii. 18. Dr. J. Moore, late archbishop of Canterbury, was son of a butcher of this place.— Monthly Mag. xix. 144. On the n-w. side of Glocester is the Isle of Alney, a small tract, formed by the se¬ paration of the stream of the Severn into 2 channels. This was the scene of contest between Edmund Ironside and Canute the Dane, after the battle of Assindune, in the year 1016: Edmund had retreated to Glocester, where forming anew army, he awaited the coming of Canute; but being desirous of preventing unnecessary slaugh¬ ter, he challenged the Dane to decide the war by single combat. Canute accepted the proposal; and, after a hard fought battle, felt himself on the eve of being worsted, when the suggestions of a subtle policy prevented his overthrow. “ Brav¬ est of youths,” he exclaimed, in an inter¬ val of the combat, “ why should our am¬ bition covet each other’s life ? Let us be brothers, and share the kingdom for which we contend.” The gallant Edmund ac¬ quiesced in the proposition; the rival princes exchanged arms; and, after a con¬ ference between the chiefs on either side, it was determined, that Canute should reign in the n., and Edmund in the s. The greatness of soul, thus displayed by Ed¬ mund, had not it’s deserved reward; for the same year, the wily Dane effected his assassination. The Isle of Alney compre¬ hends many acres of fine rich pasture. In a conversation which the compiler had with Mr. R. Mules, of Stourport, (that successful projector of the Horse Towing Path from Bridgnorth to Worcester, and of other patriotic plans) he learnt that the separation of the Severn, by which this island is formed, affords to the opulent city of Glocester, perhaps far greater natu¬ ral advantages for improving it’s port, than is possessed by any other mercantile place in the kingdom, and at so in¬ considerable an expense that the design cannot fail to be put in execution. This important advantage may be effected simply by the erection of a lock at each end of this island, called the Upper and Lower partings, for keeping up the water at a proper height in the e. branch of the river which passes by the city of Glocester, leaving the w. branch by Over and Maise- more always open for the tide-way course. The incalculable benefit which would e- vidently result from suchan improvement, preventing the serious damages constantly sustained by the setting in and irresistible violence of high spring tides, would be greatly increased by the erection ofa swiv¬ el or turning bridge, across the Severn at the w. gate of the city, sufficiently strong for all purposes. The Old Bridge has been found much more incommodious to trade than has generally been imagined, there being a very strong current in that part of the river when the tide is out; but by the improvement heresuggested.the e. branch of the Severn would be rendered an unagi¬ tated, fine quiescent sheet of water, where any vessel might lie in safety, and the bu¬ siness of lading and unlading might be per¬ formed with ease and security. 1 he moveable bridge would allow a ready pas¬ sage into the interior. The Vineyard Hill, about lm. w. from Glocester, was the site of a large House, belonging to the abbots of St. Peter's, and to which they frequently retired. This e- difice was demolished during the civil wars, as well as another, called the New¬ ark, built in emulation, by a prior of Lan- thony, oh a fine eminence s. of Glocester. The moat surrounding the Vineyard House is yet visible; the summit of the Hill com¬ mands a fine view of the city, the river Severn, and the Vale. Inns ; the Bell, the King’s-head, Ram, White Hart, Booth- hall, the Swan, the Bolt. [See a well di¬ gested and enlarged historic and descrip¬ tive account of Glocester, in Brayley and Britton’s “ BeautiesofEnglandand Wales,” whence the principal part of the foregoing extract has been obtained. See also the “ Glocester New Guide.” Crossing the Severn from Glocester a delightful ride is on it’s w. bank, to Newnham, commanding views of the city and it’s surrounding vale, with the long range of the Cotteswold hills, finely dis¬ tinguished, and perpetually varied by ev¬ ery turn of the road. The tufted eminen¬ ces of the forest of Dean hang over on the right, and sometimes in their transient u* 545 CLOCESTER. 546 >entngs present a succession of rural val- ies finely decorated witli villages and en¬ closures. Advancing, the Severn unites t’s 2 branches, increases in magnitude, md begins to sweep the vale in bold ir- egular curves, every reach of which, nore and more influenced by the tide, and tuddcd with sails, adds new beauties to he landscape. At the bottom of the prin- :ipal swell is found the little picturesque own of Newnham. A walk to Newnham is interesting; the ountry is studded with half-distinguish- :d villas, and enlivened by churches ; vhile the retrospect commands a fine view >f Robin-Hood’s hill, and the dark tower >f Glocester cathedral. To Highnam, !m. If. [lm. from this place on the r. is High-Grove, Charles Evans, esq.] Minster- ■uorth 2m. At Westbury, 4jm. is the scatof John Colchester, esq. The church, with a detached spire, stands close to the touse. Near this place mineralogists will be highly gratified by a visit to a cliff, called Garden or Golden-cliff, most curi¬ ously encrusted with mundic and crystals. This rock, standing close to the Severn, is only accessible at the reflux of the tide ; when illuminated by the sun it exhibits a most beautiful appearance. In this parish is a vast chasm called Penpark hole, to the bottom of which from the roof is 100 feet perpendicular, and of large dimensions within. Between Westbury and Newnham, in an extremely delightful val¬ ley, bordering on the forest of Dean, is Flax-ley-Abbey, the seat of sir Thomas Crawley Bovey. This was once a monas¬ tery for cistercian monks, founded by Roger, 2d earl of Hereford. The abbey was standing till theyear 1777, when part of it was destroyed by fire. A consider¬ able portion of building has since been added, which has rendered it a desirable summer residence. The views from the park, behind the house, are very extensive, commanding the vale of Glocester, and the river Severn, gay with vessels; while the forest of Dean and Flaxley-abbey, form nearer objects for admiration. This wood abounds with the most charming walks; and, while it affords refreshing shelter from a summer’s sun, admits partial views of the adjacent country. It lies between the 2 rivers Severn and Wye, and contains 130,000 acres. The immense quantities of 19 wood annually felled for the use of the navy, have so thinned this forest of it’s timber, that it is now preserved till a cer¬ tain growth, by act of parliament. Iron¬ works have long been carried on in this forest, and immense beds of iron cinders are found, left by the Romans. These cin¬ ders, not half exhausted of their ore, are wrought over again; a proof that the Ro¬ mans knew only a weak power of the blast. Broad-oak, |m. [on the 1. is John Wintles, esq. 1 m. from Newnham, on the r. is May- hill, Roynon Jones, esq.] On approaching Newnham, lm. If. the Severn becomes more considerable. Advancing into Wales from Glocester to Hereford, a little beyond the 10th mile stone, on an eminence, about 40 or 50 yards up the bye-road which leads to Linton, is an uncommon prospect. Over the neat little spire of the Lea, in the bot¬ tom, the copious brook of which separates the counties of Glocester and Hereford, and the respectable tower of IVeston Church standing upon a knoll enriched with orcharding, Penyard Coppice Wood appears- It is distinguished by rising to the sw. with a bold head of grey rock to¬ wards its extremity, gracefully clothed with foliage; and is the highest object in that direction. To the left, there is anoth¬ er nearly as prominent, now the northern¬ most extremityof the Forest of Dean , called the Lea Bailey, adjoining to private cop¬ pices, and an extensive range of wood¬ land, called Bishop’s-Wood. In this pic¬ turesque opening, which conducts the eye to the counties of Monmouth and Pem¬ broke, Goodrich Castle stands scarcely out of view on the left. Behind, and rath¬ er to the right of the highest part of Pen- yard, is the town of Ross ; and nearly in a line over it, at the furthest part of the vale, lies the city of Hfreford. Passing through Weston-under-Penyard, the road enters Ross, without any previous view of the town, except that of the church steeple. A nigher way, by 3 or 4 miles, to Goodrich ferry-boat and castle, than first going to Ross, is through the pass just described. Leaving the main road, the second turning on the left, after pas¬ sing the 12th mile-stone, cross Ponsill’s Marsh, by Billmill Dtdge and paper-nnll, through the village of Walford. In this route, Pemjard park and cliase arc on the 547 GLOCESTER. 648 right, and Bishop's-Wood on the left. The \vhole ride is diversified by rich and vary¬ ing objects. Quitting Gloucester for Ross, May. hill and Huntley-Hill, are come within sight of in front. Wheat, beans, and na¬ tural grass are the common produce of this district. The soil is a reddish sandy loam, most of the way to Ross, with stone of the same colour. The farm houses ap¬ pear comfortable, butthehand ofimprove- ment is scarcely seen. The cottages are frequently rurally situated, accompanied with little gardens and orchards. Cross the Severn river and enter the isle of Alncy; pass the Hereford and Gloces- ter canal, and -j a mile further cross the Severn again; (on the r. is the road to jNewent, 8 m.) Highnam, fif (on the r. are Highnam-house, built by Inigo Jones, lady Guise, and Bill-mill Lodge, J. Nixon, esq. £m. beyond, on the 1 . is the road to Newnham , 10£m.) Skirt the forest of Dean on the left, and pass over Bird- wood common, the rather considerable vil¬ lage of Huntley, 5m. begin to ascend the hills, and to enter a defile between them, which enlarges and contracts into swells and recesses. The Digitalis purpurea grows here in great abundance. The views are limited to scenery at a short distance. The oak, the ash, and hazel are cut every year and charred for the neighbouring iron furnaces, so that the woods are chiefly of the coppice kind. The rude and barbarous method of yoking oxen in pairs is practised in this district. At the 8 th milestone nothing can be more enchanting than the surrounding land¬ scape : it is near this spot where mr. Bur¬ den, an artist at Gloucester has taken one of his favourite and romantic views for liis work called “ The Scenery in Glo- ccstcrshire.” May-hill, 7f.; Longhope, 2 -tm. Lea, Hm.; here is Castle End, archdeacon Probyn ; and on the r. Burton Whaley Armitage, esq. Weston, 2m. 3f. T, Nixon, esq.; F. Lawson, esq.; J. Swayne, esq. and John Hardwick, esq. Extensive woods open to the left of Ross, and it’s “ heaven directed spire” is visible at the distance of a mile. The approach on this side is flat and uninteresting, save some villages built with a reddish stone which a little enliven the country. Ross, S^-m. On the Highroad to Hereford, (see the road to Ross) by way of Huntley 7^ith Lea, 4m. 5f. Boss, 4m. 5f. Cross the Wyc to Wilton, 6 f. Bridstuw, 6 f. Peterstow, lm. While-cross, lm. (On the 1. to Monmouth 9gm.) Harewoocl End Inn, lm. 5f. (on the r. is Harcwood, sir Hungerford Hoskins, bart.) Llandinabo and Church lm. If. (on the 1. Broomy Close, James Woodward, esq.; and at a short distance I.yson-house, Abm. Whitaker, esq.) Great Birch, and Church, 1 m. 5f. (on the 1. Bryngwyn, capt. Phillips ; and The Meend, J. Richard Sy- monds, esq.) Cross in hand, lm. Cf, (on 1. to Monmouth, 13gm.) Callow, Inn Guy’s Head, 6 f. Red Hill, lm. 7f. Hereeord, 2m. The Great Road to Monmouth sepa¬ rates from that to Ross near Highnam, 2m. If. (On the r. is the road to Neweiit, 10m ; a little further on the 1. to Newn¬ ham, 10m.) Churcham, lm. 7f.; Birdwood, lm. 7f.; Huntley, lm. 3f. (on the r. to Ross, 9^m) Longhope, 3m. If. (on ap¬ proaching Mitchel Dean, is a road on the 1. to Newnham, 4Jm.) Mitchel Dean, 2 miles, population 125 houses, 563 inhabi¬ tants. (About 4m. on the 1. is Flaxley-Ab- bey, sir Thomas Crawley Boevey, bart. lm. from Mitchel Dean on the 1. is The Wilderness, R. Dighton, esq. On the r. leading to the forest, is the Tusculum, mrs. Hoare. On the r. is the road to Ross, 6 m.) Over the Forest of Dean, to Colford, 8 m. Inn, the Angel. (On the 1. are Clearwell- house, late C. Edwyn, esq.; and seats of Edward Probyn, esq. and rev.— Probyn.) Rcdbrook, 2 fm. cross the river Wye, to Mohmouth, 2 §m. ToLEDBURY,pass Maisemoor-bridge over the Severn, 25 m. Woolridge-hill, Inn, the Crown; (lm. beyond is the road to Up¬ ton Him. and to Worcester, 20.) Staunton, Inn, the Swan ; Heathall Pitt, 1 ^m. Red- marley ; (on the Heath, on the r. is Douin- house, — Dowdeswell, esq.) Little London, Ledbury, 2m. 7f- To Worcester. Maisemore, 3m. Wool- dridge-hill, Inn, the Crown, 2|m. On the r. Furlhnmpion, hon. mrs. York. ( 2 §m. be¬ yond on the 1. to Ledbury, 10m.) Long- den, 6 m. 3f. (About lm. before, on the r. is Chnmbers-court, John Stone, esq.; and Pull-court, Tho. Dowdeswell, esq.; at Longden, the parsonage rev. dr. Salmon; and lfm. from Longden, on the r. is Ham Court, mrs. Bland.) Newbridge-green, 2ni. (A little further on 1. to Ledbury, 9m.) Upton, lm. (On the r. to Pershore, 9m.) 550 549 GLOCES'l i,R. GOODRICH CASTLE. Hanley green, l^m. (On the 1. ITanley Cas¬ tle, Thos. Hornyold, esq.; at Hanley the Vicarage, rev. Geo. Turberville; and on the r. of Hanley, Severn-end, Edm. Lech- mere Chorlton, esq.) Narden-green, Jm. (lm. beyond on the r. Rhydd, Anthony Lechmere, esq, and Drake's-place, John Allen, esq.; on the 1. Dripsill, Richard Chambers, esq.; and 2m. further, on 1. Madresfield-court. lord Beaucamp.) Callow- end-green, 4m. If. (on the 1. Stunbrook, — Dorreville, esq.; and J. Cave, esq.) Pn- •Jiick, 7f. (On the 1. Slaughter-court, Wm Russell, esq.; and scats of — Careless, 3sq.; mrs. Raynsford; J. Forrest, and J. Blew, esqs.; and lady Packington ; lm. beyond Powick, on 1. Wick, dr. Briggs; and a seat of Thos. Bund, esq.) Cross the Teme river to St. John’s 2m. ( Pitmarslon, John Williams, esq.) Worcester, lm. Leaving Gloucester for Cheltenham, the country wears the appearance of a cul¬ tivated vicinity to a large town. At the 3d stone, the romantic hill of Church- down enlarges in width, losing it’s conic figure ; yet with the white little church upon the summit, placed there in lieu of an ancient cross, it is a pleasing object. Iu the great distance on the other side, the Malvern mountains rise in a continued series, for many miles. Totally without wood they exhibit a delicate blue lint, which changes by degrees of approach into a russet hue, but their outline is picturesque, the points being neither too spirally drawn, nor the ridges too much extended in right lines. To Newnham, 14§ miles, Skrine. — Chepstow byway of Newnham, 28 miles. — Ross, 16| miles. Mr. Barber terminates his excellent account of “ A Tour throughout Soutlt Wales and Mon¬ mouthshire,” with this city. To Cheltenham, 9) miles. — Tewkesbury, 11 miles. — Bath, 3BJ miles. — Bristol, 35 miles — Hereford, 30 $ miles. — Worcester, 24 miles. From Monmouth, 6 miles, Coxe. -the Wye, Barber. GOODRICH CASTLE and PRIORY arc in the hundred of Wormelow, Here¬ fordshire,4Jm.s-s-w from Ross. Theearli- est authenticated accounts of this castle, are dated 1204; when Wm. Marshall, earl Of Pembroke, had a grant of it from king John. It afterwards was inherited by the Talbot family. During the civil wars, the king’s party, and the parliament forces alternately obtained possession of it. It was then sold to Thomas Griffin, esq., vice admiral of the white ; whose second son, the rev. dr. Griffin, of Hadnock, near Monmouth, is it's present owner, having been purchased with the manor, by his father from the duke of Kent's trustees. The following directions are from the 2d No. of Bonner’s “ Itinerary” which con¬ tains 10 excellent views of the castle, ab¬ bey, &c. Having crossed the river at the ferry-boat, and a stile upon the 1 . proceed to the right, to the upper end of the close ; and in the next meadow, a wicker stile, conducts you by a plain path to the top of a steep wood, when the great West Tow¬ er of the inner ballium breaks into view. It’s appearance is venerable and interest¬ ing, but it israpidly yielding to the ravages of time. On the r. of this tower is the square keep, called Mackbeth's lower, said to have been built by one Mackbeth, an Irish commander, as a ransom for himself and son, who were taken prisoners in Ireland, and brought hither. From the broken part to which the ground leads up, on it’s r., is a descent into the inner balli¬ um, through a breach, by some stone steps. The door leads to the dungeon. Below this and Mackbeth’s tower, are the small remains of the s-w wall of the inner bal¬ lium, attached to the s. tower, which is finely hooded with ivy. Tire great but¬ tress which it covers, is the chimney- placc. The openings beyond and broken projections of the angle belong to the n. or Ladies Tower. The ground below is the outer ballium. A station to the r. parallel with the former, facing the great tower, produces a view in front of the South Tower of the inner ballium, with the w. and e Towers as they flank the walls of the inner ballium. This tower is be¬ decked with ivy and propped by angular buttresses. The w. tower from this sta¬ tion presents a chasm not seen from the former. The broken parts upon the top of the s-e wall, were the barracks ; the higher projecting part adjoining, is the tower, which flanks it on the e. and con¬ tains the chapel. The top of this and that of the watch-house, was the situation of the corps de garde. The bridge and cas¬ tle gate, arc defended upon each side by 552 551 GOODRICH CASTLE. this and anbther tower at the e. angle; the former has one semicircular arch, and another acutely pointed. The top is the level of the ground in the inner ballium, and the bottom of the pier is the depth of the fosse, graffe, or ditch of the ballium, which is hewn out of the rock to the breadth of 20yards, on the s. and s-e. From some trees, seen above the highest part of the castle, may be taken an inside view from the w. of the inner ballium. After the castle gate, that which is pointed was the only entrance to the inner ballium, it’s strong hinges still remain; over it is the warden’s apartment. The large open¬ ing is the n-w. window of the chapel, in the earliest saracenic style. From a door-way in this part is seen the inside, without a roof. There is a large project¬ ing fire-place, for a room over it, and below a cellar, with brackets which sup¬ ported the floors, and a place for holy-wa¬ ter in tlje chapel. The octagon contains a stair-case which leads to the apartments over the chapel and gate. The top of it is the Watch Tower, rising above the other buildings. An inside view from the e. of the inner ballium, presents an opening in front, through which the rock, &c. is seen on the opposite side of the fosse or ditch ; this is the effect of decay. It was the station from which the last description was made. Proceed to the inner ballium, and enter the door of the Keep or Mackbeth’s Tow¬ er, which is a prominent part of the build¬ ing. The windows are saxon, the frames, pillars, with round shafts, with their usual bases and caps. Below the upper window is a cheveron work or zigzag ornament, which is continued upon a fillet all round. The top is imperfect, but the whole bears indications of the 12th century. The chapel appears to have been fitted up at a much later period. It answers complete¬ ly to the description of an ancient keep ; this part was likewise the citadel or last retreat of the garrison ; generally built square, of several stories, and the walls of an extraordinary thickness. Inside of the n-w wall is a hole broken through. Nothing remains but the square area, the fire-places, and the brackets which sup¬ ported the floors. On the s-e is a door which descends to a vaulted room under ground, and appears to have been the dun¬ geon ; it has another door which leads to it by a deep fall, and a third which is seen about the midway of the broken stone steps leading to the apartments in the S. Tower, to the parapet of the s-w wall, now decayed. The door, at the foot of the steps, leads to the under parts of the South Tower, the whole of which is con¬ nected with a range of apartments on the 1. which appear to have been either the barracks and lodgings, for the garrison and artificers, or granaries, storehouses, &c. unconnected with the other apartments which were for the baron or governor, and family. The 3 small doors near the Corn¬ er lead to the privies, where is a deep vault belonging to them. The s. wall is garretted, but much broken ; the openings are narrow windows and chinks, or cross loop-holes. The inner wall of these bar¬ racks may still be traced. The great pointed door way is the entrance to the Great Hall, the building above it is the walls of the great w. tower. On viewing the inside of the Ladies’ Tower from the s-e. the apartment on the 1. appears to have been the kitchen, by the doors descending into the offices, cellars, &c. of that tower, in which the octagon pillar, and two sharp-pointed saracenic arches, springing from corresponding brackets, which pro¬ ject from the side walls, form a great con¬ trast to the more ancient parts of the build¬ ing. The track from this station proceeds to the s-w window, whence a most cheer¬ ful view is presented over the Wye, with the village of Walford, it’s handsome church, and shingled spire, Walford Court House, and the surrounding woods and hills. The terminating objects are the bold coppices of Penyard Chace and Park, and to the r. those of Bishops Wood, &c. Hence through the Inner Ballium Gate, the track leads to the door and narrow passage ol the two Watch Houses. Pro¬ ceeding over the bridge you enter upon the barbican, now nearly level with the ground. From this station may be taken a general view of the castle, taking in front the fosse, and on the 1. the s. tower, with the square part attached to it, and the keep rising beyond, over the s-w wall of the Inner Ballium, which is from 7 to 10 feet thick. The foremost projecting part is the e. tower, flanking the s e. wall, and contains the chapel. The broken loop hole was a window ro the cellar be¬ low it. Upon the level surface of the bridge, is the pit of the draw-bridge, near 553 GOODRICH CASTLE. 554 the castle gate. This gate has sliding of one mile across the neck of land. Pen- groves for a portcullis. Re-enter the In- yard Park and Chase, form a noble back ner Ballium, within which were the bar- scenery; and Bishop's Hood, intersected racks and lodgings for the garrison and with small groves and thickets, diversified artificers, wells, granaries, storehouses, with rocks, neat cottages, and detached and chapel. Next visit the Great Hall, enclosures, presents a striking peculiarity on entering which immediately on the 1. of style. If you proceed a little further, are stone steps, leading to the upper part to a small white building, formerly the of the Great W. Tower, Sec. proceed residence of a rabbit wavrener; you corn- through a small door, and looking up, only mand a view of the counties ol Hereford, plain walls are to be seen, except fire- Monmouth, Salop, Worcester, and Glo- places, and brackets for the two floors. A cester, in England; and those of Glamor- breach in the n. w. wall allows a passage S an > Brecon, and Radnor, in Wales. The to the outer ballium. Returning, there less distant parts of the picture arc enrich- are two small doors in the partition wall, ed by the village of Ruardean, 3m. to the besides one to pass through, leading to the *. in die Forest of Dean, appearing hence Great Hall. There is here a large fire- on the summit of a beautiful lawn, wing- place and 3 slender windows, with cross ed by firs and forest oaks, with the river mullions, in the n w. wall. In the n-e. at it’s foot. To the n. appears the spire wall is a small door leading to the kitchen, of Ross, rising out of lofty elms. In the and another to the offices under the La- circle, nearer to view, are the villages of dies’Tower. Hence proceed back to the Whitchurch, Goodrich, Croose, Pen- door you entered by the kitchen on the 1. creek, and Walford. For a mile in length looking through the breach as you pass, the surface of this hill is nearly level, ex- Thence into the cellars of the Ladies’ ceedingly pleasant, and safe, whether on Tower, where is the octagon pillar, with foot or on horseback. Proceeding along it’s arches, and pendent ivy. Proceed the path, you have in view the old man- through a broken part of the North Tower, sion, venerable woods and hanging gar- at the angle of the outer ballium, whence dens of Court-Field. Henry Prince of is a view of the breach made at the Ladies’ Wales, born 13S8, at Monmouth Castle, Tower of the Inner Ballium. It was Colo- and therefore called Harry ofMonmoutii, nel Birch who is said to have battered this was nursed here. The cradle is now in part, through which is seen the octagon the possession ol -Whitehead, esq. of pillar, with the trees in the court over- Hambbrook, French Hay, near Bristol- topping the walls. From the excellent quarry of this place, Flanesford (now called Goodrich) Pit- the stone was supplied for building the onj, is situated in a fertile vale, about a bridge at Bristol; whence an interesting quarter of a mile below the castle. It view may be seen of Bishop’s Wood Fur- was a monastery of black cannons regular mice. Here, and at the New-Wear, busi- of st. Augustine, founded 1347, by sir ness seems to have found a convenient Richard Talbot. It is now used as a situation even in retirement. The village barn. of Lidbrook, whence the city, and greatest After contemplating the venerable re- part of the county of Hereford, are sup- mains of this castle, the beauties of the plied with coal; the churches of Welsh surrounding country are worth exploring, and English Bicknor, and Stanton ; and For- andmay be accomplished in an easy walk, est of Dean, contribute to the inrichment By descending thence to the river, and of the view. When arrived at the ex¬ bending a course along it’s banks, for tremity, which is bounded by the river, about three quarters of a mile, Copped a range of massy and stupendous rocks, Wood Hill is presented. The ascent will on the summit of the opposite shore, ex- be relieved by a perpetual change of cites an awful admiration. The largest scenery. The northern extremity should and most elevated of these rocks is calle d be first attained where the current of the Symond’s Vat or Gate ; and is often visit- river dashes against the base of the rock ; cd by large parties, in the summer whence it glides in a horse-shoe course of months, for the sake of the extraordinary 5 miles ; and revisits the hill again at it’s prospects from it. Welsh Bicknor church , southern extremity, at the distance only lies at the distance of about half a mile 555 GOODRICH CAS: from Court-field, and is visited by the an¬ tiquary on account of a sepulchral effigy, said to represent the countess of Salis¬ bury, who nursed Harry of Monmouth, or Henry 5. Mr. Coxe concludes his his¬ tory ot the proprietors of this manor with tlte following anecdote of the vigorous old age of an ancestor of the present pro¬ prietor. Walking one day with his son, who had been long married without issue, lie challenged him to leap over a gate. The son attempted it without success ; on which the old gentleman vaulted over it with great agility, adding, “ As I have cleared the gate lor you so I must e’en provide you with an heir.” And he ful¬ filled his proposal by espousing at the age ol 75, Agatha, daughter of John Berring- ton, esq,, of Cowame-court, Hereford¬ shire, by whom he left a son and three daughters. In proceeding to Ross, the first 2 miles traced by mr. Barber, was a bridle-road, which he says might with equal propriety be called a ditch; but he had frequent views of the proud ruin of Goodrich Cas¬ tle, towering above it’s incircling groves; which, variously combining with the sur¬ rounding landscape at each succeeding station, proved a new and delightful ob¬ ject. “ Crossing the Wye at Wilton bridge, at a short distance above, on the low western bank of the river, appear the mouldering towers of Wilton Castle, a nor- man structure, once the baronial residence of the Greys, and afterwards became the property of the Char.dos. The remains of this castle, with Aconbury, Dewfall, and other considerable estates in the neigh¬ bourhood belonging to the family, amount¬ ing to nearly 4000/. per annum, were sold to the governors of Guy’s Hospital. The castle is reported to have been destroyed by fire; the period of which is not ascer¬ tained ; but in support of this report the ends of the beams bear indications of such an event. Nothing however exists of the castle besides a low square wall, inclos¬ ing a garden, with the appearance of a turret at one angle. Several pleasure- boats, with awnings, handsomely fitted up for the reception of company that would navigate the Wye, are moored by the bridge. From this bridge of 6 large arches a causeway leads to the town of Ross. The distance from Ross to Chep¬ stow, in a straight line, is not more than FLE. GRESFORD. 556 ■ 16^ miles; but, owing to the sinuosity of the river, the voyage by water is nearly 38 miles. The boats descend with the cur¬ rent, and are towed back by men •. this laborious task may account for the expen¬ sive hire of a boat, which I understand, says, mr. Barber, to be three guineas. I earnestly advise every traveller of taste and leisure, proceeding by the way of Ross to Monmouth, not to neglect the beautiful scenery of the river. He may take one of the boats ; or, if he prefer riding or walking, he may enjoy it’s principal charms by reversing my journey from Goodrich; whence crossing Hensham fer¬ ry, he will proceed among pleasant mea¬ dows on the margin of the stream in front of the sublime grandeur of the Caldwell rocks; then ascending the isthmus of an immense peninsulated rock called Sy- mond’s Gate , at the height of 2000 feet above the surface of the river, he will en¬ joy a superlative prospect of it’s mazy extent and the grand scenery around. From the vicinity of Goodrich the Wye urges it’s course through a narrow valley inclosed by towering woody mountains, or struggles in more limited confines, where protruding rocks plunge their nak¬ ed perpendicular sides into the body of the stream. Descending from the lofty r.eck of the peninsula, which is but 600 yards across in a direct line, although the circuit of the river round the rock is up¬ wards of 4 miles, he will find himself in a deep valley of astonishing grandeur, form¬ ed on one side by the romantic precipices of the peninsula, and on the other by the great Doward, a huge stratified limestone mountain, studded with lime-kilns and cottages. At the New-Wier he will re¬ cross the river, and soon join the turnpike to Monmouth.”—J. T. Barber. To Tintern-Abbey, down the Wye, 9 miles, Coxe. — Ross, 4 miles, Barber. From Chester, 8 miles, Wyndham. -Wrexham, 4 miles, Skrine; Pennant. GRESFORD, or Croes-fFordd, is a vil¬ lage of Denbighshire, remarked chiefly on account of it’s beautiful church, built about the same time as that of Wrexham, and containing a fine set of 12 bells, reck¬ oned one of the wonders of Wales. Be- 557 GllESFORD. GROSMONT. 558 reath the church is a delightful little val- steepness of the declivity; and on the s, ley. It is placed upon rising ground at which fronts Cheshire, and is of easier the end of the village, built of free stone, ascent, has been protected by 2 or 3 other in length 123 feet, in breadth 59. The ditches, now almost levelled by the Tower is quadrangular; it’s height 90 feet, plough. In one corner of this port is a vast Upon it’s side is a fine statute of Henry 7- exploratory mount. The whole seems to The e. window, which measures 21 feet have been an important station. In the by 14, has been ornamented with beauti- neighbourhood of Gresford, is Upper Gwei - ful groupes, appearing to contain the his- silt Hall, the seat of rnr. Atherston. The cir- tory of several saints, with some figures cuinjacent grounds are tastefully laid out, of the Virgin Mary in the centre; under the walks on the margin of the Alun are each group are sentences in her praise, highly romantic, and the views from the The Virgin’s history ornaments the east higher lawn embrace the mountains in the window of the north aisle. In the s. vicinity of Hope, Caergwrle castle, &c. aisle is a figure completely armed with This house was the residence of that dis- mail, a surcoat and round helmet, with a tinguished royalist, Culnnel Robinson, who lion at his feet. His shield has also the in the time of Charles 1, was necessitated figure of a lion upon it. The following to leave his house, but he retained posses- inscription is upon the ledge of the tomb : sion on the restoration of Charles 2. The “Hie jacet Madoc ap Llewelyn ap Gruff, usurping possessor had rebuilt it and fit- obiit 1331.’’ Some mural emblems ted it up in a better manner. From his commemorate the Trevors of Trevalin, epitaph in Gresford church, he died Mar. among which one to sir Richard Trevor, 15,1680. Jeffery Shakerly, another 1638, inthe 80th yearof his age, represents patriot, who distinguished himself in the the knight in armour kneeling ; and his royal cause, possessed the Lover Gwersilt. wife Catherine by his side, by Rogerson. He commanded a regiment of cavalry A well executed bust represents John Madocks, esq. uncle of mr. Madocks, of Fron Yew, who died September 23, 1794 . In the chancel is a monument to John l’arry, esq. who died Oct. 26, 1794, aged 73, by Westmacott. This unique piece of sculpture possesses pecu¬ liar points of elegance. In the church yard ranging within the verge of the w'alls, are 19 immense yew trees. The cemeteries in Wales, are distinguished much by this kind of sombre accompani¬ ment. Gresford Lodge is a low but exceedingly neat free stone mansion, with acolonaded fasade, situated in that part of the valley through which flows the river during the civil wars, and afterwards bought this estate for the sake of it’s con¬ tiguity with that of his friend Col. Robin¬ son. On the right of the road, with¬ in a mile of Wrexham, upon an elevation, lies / Icton Park, the seat of Foster Cun, liffc, hart. Several paintings by Barker of Bath, are much admired. To Wresham, 4 miles, Wyndham, — Chester, 7 miles, Sltrine. — Llangollen, 14 miles, Pennant. From Monmouth, 11 miles, Barber. GROSMONT, Monmouthshire, is a Alun, hastening to the Dee. It is the pleasing little village, situated in an undu- residence of mrs. Parry, relict of the late lating valley, diversified with wood and J. Parry, esq. from a design by James pasture, and beautifully accompanied by Wyatt. Near this place is the beautiful the meandering Mon now. Tho’ at cottage of mrs. Warrington. At the present this place consists of an assemblage extremity of the lofty slope which im- of small cottages only, it was formerly of pends over the plains, affording an exten- more importance, and is yet governed by sive view to the n. and n-e. is a penin- sulated field called the Rvfts, which once formed a British post. It is defended by 3 strong dikes and fosses, cut across the narrow isthmus which connects it to higli- a mayor and burgesses. According to tradition, it once formed a town of con¬ siderable extent and had a market held at the foot of the Craig. On an emin¬ ence at the s-e. end of the village, and er parts of the parish. In one corner of swelling above the river is the picturesque this post is a vast exploratory mount. Up- ruin of it’s Castle; a pile of no great ex, on 2 sides it is inaccessible, from the tent, but well disposed, and profusely bb<) GROSMONT. decorated with shrubs and ivy. The form of this structure is irregular : large circu¬ lar towerscover the angles of the ramparts; within which are traces of the baronial hall, and other apartments, and beyond the mount are some remains of the barbi¬ can, or redoubt, and several entrench¬ ments. It is surrounded by a dry moat. All the door and window arches ate point¬ ed Gothic, and of the proportion in use about the 13th century; but the founda¬ tion of the castle is supposed to be coeval with that of Screnfrith’s. The environs of the castle are delightful; the vale fre¬ quently swells into gentle eminences clothed with trees : on one side the view is bounded by the Graig, and on the other by the Garway, enriched and ornamented by the enchanting woods and plantations of Kentchurch park. This fortress was invested by the Welsh troops under prince Llewelyn, but before he could take it “ the king came,” says Lambarde, ‘‘with a great army, to raise the seige, whereof as sone as the Welshman had un- derstandinge, they saved their lives by their legges.” In a subsequent expedi¬ tion, the welsh succeeded in cutting off the provisions of the royal army, obliging them to retreat; and while waiting for sup¬ plies they were surprised while asleep in the trenches, and deprived of 500 horses, baggage waggons, &c. This castle was the favourite residence of the earls of Lan¬ caster. The church continues to be¬ speak the foEmer consequence of the place, for it is a large handsome structure, in the pointed style, with an octagonal tower. It is in the cathedral form con¬ sisting of a nave, with two ailes, a tran¬ sept, and a chancel. Many exterior traces of buildings, and raised causeways, constructed like roman roads with large blocks of stone diverging from it, prove it’s antique extent and importance to have been considerable. Parts of these yet re¬ main, measuring from 9 to 12 feet broad. The legend of this place recounts, with voluble earnestness, the exploits of their reputed necromancer, John of Kent. About 2 miles n-w. from Grosmont is the village of Langwa or Langwyn. Back to Monmouth, 6arber. GWINDU. 560 From Bangor, 14§ miles. - Plas Newydd, 14 miles, Bingley. •-Holyhead, 12‘- miles. Pennant. GWINDU orGwyndy, (the whitewash¬ ed house) is a comfortable inn, in Angle- sea, standing on the mail-coach road from Bangor to Holyhead, and is considered the half-way house and posting inn through the island. Gwyndy, is in the cwmwd of Llyfen, cantref of Aber ffraw (now called the hundred of Llyfen) county of Angle- sea, parish of Llan Drygan. It is 14fm. N-w. by w. from Bangor, A post-office is here. In the reign of Edward 4, and subsequently, parties met here to exercise in wrestling, tournaments, and other feats of activity. Near this place, on the great road, is Bodychan, an ancient build¬ ing, once the seat of Rhys ap Llewelyn ap Hwlijn, a potent man in the time of Henry 8. He was first sheriff of the county, and made his house, (now converted into a barn) the county jail. The dungeon yet remains. To Holyhead. Proceed to Trefor, ljm. (lm. beyond on the r. Trejorwerth, rev. Hugh Wyan Jones; and lm. further, a lit¬ tle to the r. of the road, is Presaddfed, the seat of sir John Bulkeley. The house stands upon the site of an ancient mansion, once the residence of Hwfa ap Cynddelw. Near this place a tributary to the river Alaiv issues out of a small lake, and at a little distance, in a field, are two large cromlechs; one is standing, the other down Upon an adjacent eminence is a maenhir or upright stone, about 9 feet high, called Llech-gwen-farwyd.) Bode- dern, Swan with Two Necks, 2m. 5f. Llanyngenedle ljm. (3m. on r. is Llinon, Herbert Jones, esq.) Four Mile Bridge 3m. (At lm. distance on the 1. is Bodiar, J. Lewis, esq.; and near Holyhead, on 1. are Penrhos-hall, a handsome modern man¬ sion, built under the direction of mr. Def- ferd, the residence of lady Stanley ; Pen- rhos-bradwen, John Jones, esq.; and Llan - fair, mrs. Vickars.) Holyhead, 4m. If. To Bangor, continue to Porth-aithwy ferry, thence up a steep road. To Holyhead, 12§ miles, Bingley. — Bangor, 14j miles, Pennant. 562 561 IIAFOD. From Pont y Monach, 4 miles, Barber; Evans; Skrine. -Rhaiader, 17 miles, Malkin; Warner’s two walks; Lipscomb. HAFOD, or the summer residence, is a delightful, place occupying a deep narrow valley, watered by the Ystwith, the seat of Thomas Johnes, member of parliament, and lord lieutenant and custos rotulorum for the county of Caerdigan, whose persevering genius has compelled a mantle of wood to grow upon rocky pre¬ cipices, where nature seemed to deny the access of verdure, and who in his ele¬ gant and useful projects of further im¬ provement, gives employment to the country around. It is also called Hafod Yettryd, or Ychdryd, probably from some famed personage of ancient times. The Herberts are the first who are known to have resided here. The daughter of the last Wm. Herbert, of this place, who died in 1704, married Thomas Johnes of Llan- vair Clydoge, near Lambeder, to whom the estate descended. A handsome park- gate announces the entrance to these de¬ lightful grounds, and the thundering of an unseen waterfall forms a grand symphony to the ensuing spectacle, which discovers such an assemblage of beauties, of cheer, fill walks, and silent glens, of woody pre¬ cipices, shadowy glades, garden thickets and waterfalls, that, compared with the barren wilds of the surrounding country, it seems a second paradise rising from a newly subdued chaos. Upon a spot judi¬ ciously chosen, where the banks of the valley gently incline, and the coverture of lofty woods afford a shelter from the n. e. winds, stands the Mansion. A sloping lawn is in front, commanding a compre¬ hensive view of the enchanting valley. On putting ourselves, says mr. Barber, un¬ der the direction of the gardener, we were first led to the kitchen-garden, furnished with extensive forcing houses, and replete with every necessary appendage. The flower garden, also, displayed appropriate charms ; but from these atchievements of art we turned, without regret, to where the bold hand of nature reared the scene in stupendous majesty. -“Along the dale, with woods o’erhung, and sliag’d with mossy rocks, where on each hand the gushing waters play, and down the rough cascade white dashing fall,’* we passed, enamoured with the incessant tho' congenial variety of our subject. Af¬ ter visiting the cold bath, a small seques¬ tered building, a mazy walk romantically traced by the side of a brawling torrent, and amid tangled shrubberies, led to a small cascade ; and soon after a superior waterfall engaged our attention, where the whole volume of the Ystwith bursts over a ledge of rocks in a composition truly grand and picturesque. But a scene of awful sublimity disclosed itself on explor¬ ing a dark cavernous passage in a rock, and reaching it’s extremity, where a lofty cas¬ cade of transcendent beauty, throwing it¬ self over a strata of black rocks, bounded close to the opening of the cave, and shrouded the aperture with it’s spray, as it became engulphed in a dark chasm be¬ neath. The towering mountains, clothed with myriads of oaks, which environ this remarkable valley, afford a diversity of walks and combinations of view, to des¬ cribe which words would be inadaquate, and prove at best, but tedious. We were told that a walk of twelve miles scarcely comprises a complete survey of the grounds. Being limited to time, our per¬ ambulation was confined to a much smal¬ ler space, yet enough was seen to con¬ vince us that this is one of the most de¬ lightful rural retreats in the kingdom. The mansion was a handsome modern edi¬ fice, in the gothic style of architecture, and the general outline of the building pleasing, but we had read of it in one place, as built “ in the most correct taste,” and in another as “ a mansion in the Itali¬ an style,” yet found it a sort of greek and saxon architecture blended with the prevailing gothic. We understood the house was internally richly fitted up, and furnished with an excellent library, but did not visit it, for tho’ what amounted to a demand of 5 shillings for the gardener’s attendance was willingly paid, yet another such sum, which we found would be re¬ quired by the housekeeper, we suspected might be more than the exhibition of any welch house was worth.” There is some¬ thing unworthy of a great character, in allowing a servant to have unlimited ex¬ pectations from strangers. This imperi¬ ous tax on the curiosity of the public has been apologized for by the circumstance of it’s acting as a bar upon the lower ranks of society, who might incline to intrude. A servant however could place as strong a 563 HAFOD. 564 bar as is necessary .upon the stranger whose appearance he disliked, tho’ a pecuniary consideration was not in question. A plan far more becoming a liberal mind in possession of a splendid fortune, would be to appoint one servant, as a Guide, with reasonable wages, on condition that he never accepted of money, or whenever a discovery of such breach of contract was made, it should be the certain token of an ensuing dismissal. The attention of such a person to strangers could not occupy more than a small portion of time. These remarks are not intended to apply invidi¬ ously to the worthy proprietor of Hafod, but as objections to this prevalent indul¬ gence of servants, by gentlemen of large possessions. The following account of Hafod, is abridged from Mr. -Malkin’s excellent work on the “ Scenery, &c. ofS. Wales.” The entrance to Hafod at the shepherd’s Cot, after a steep descent from Pcntre Brunnnt Inn, (as described under Rhai- ader), is the least striking of all the en¬ trances, and therefore perhaps the best. Tor some little way appears the roughness and disorder of a new creation. High as the ground is on which we stand, the ul¬ terior prospect is intercepted by a massy rock of great compass and elevation. This barren rock has been submitted to the planter’s hand, with practical success. The road winding round this promontory, and escaping from it’s obstructions, suddenly opens on such an assemblage of beauty and grandeur, stretched out to the very limits of the perspective, as few spots in this island can equal with respect to singu¬ larity, and the surprise which is excited. After travelling at the foot of Plinlimmon, to find the bed of the Ystwidd, with it’s groves and meadows, still far beneath the level on which we are standing, is so un¬ expected a circumstance, that we rather start, as at the withdrawing of a curtain from before a picture, than believe it a reality. The winding of the river, here foaming impetuously over rocks, there spreading it’s broad and glassy surface, like a lake; the endless woods, hanging on the mountain sides, in long array, some¬ times rising to the top, but oftener con¬ trasted by the naked ridge ; some planted there by nature, yet more owe their luxu¬ riance to the well-directed efforts of their owner; tracts of cultivation, picturesquely circumstanced, breaking out in the dis¬ tances, and destroying the uniformity. This point of view is still further adorned by the elegant spire of a beautiful newly erected little church called Eglwys Newydd, embosomed in the highest woods of the opposite hill. This is a perpetual curacy, and chapel of ease, in the parish of Llan- vihangely Creiddyn. The original church stood at a place called Llantrisaint, about 3 miles nearer the mother church. It was removed hither for the convenience of the Herbert family and the Cwmystwyth miners in 1620. This was again taken down and the present elegant cruciform structure erected from a design of Wyatt, about the year 1803, entirely at the ex¬ pense of the present proprietor of Hafod. A tower and spire is the s-w. end. A pe¬ culiarity attaches to this church and to St. Chads, Shrewsbury, that they stand in the directions of n-e. and s-vv. Over the altar is a painting by Fuseli, of Christ and his two disciples at Emmaus. The font which stands in the centre, is of artificial stone, beautifully carved. The n-w. transept forms the pew of the Hafod family; the s-e. contains the clerk’s seat, reading desk, and pulpit. The church is in the gift of the landholders of that part of the parish called Uwch Cell. In the n-w. transept is a mu¬ ral monument to the memory of Morgan Herbert, late of Hafod Ychdryd. Mr. Johnes’ daughter was buried here July 1811. The n-w. window consists entirely of painted glass, in 9 compartments. The ascent to the church is steep, but the path secure and smooth. Descending by a- nother richly sylvan path through the hanging wood we come out at the bottom of the Mill Cascade. Here a simple alcove adds an unobtrusive decoration to a spot frowning upon the higher pretensions of art. The fall is seen most advantageously from the building, at the distance of some hundreds of feet. Between it and the alcove there is a rustic foot bridge, which assists much in the composition of the picture. A path leads through the woods, with oc¬ casional spots of pasture and tillage, seen through the opening vistas, of the carriage road to the house. A sudden turn most judiciously managed, brings the stranger unprepared, almost before the portico of an elegant mansion, built in the modern gothic style, under the superintendance of mr. Baldwyn of Bath, constructed 565 HA with pointed windows and pinnacles. Tlio’ large and capacious it was light and airy. The valuable library was added under ntr. Johnes’s own immediate direc¬ tion. The situation is admirably chosen. The lawn slopes elegantly but naturally, down to the water; and immediately be¬ hind it rises a most beautifully wooded hill. These woods, reaching to a great extent along the acclivity, at once protect and adorn the chosen spot; while the sheep-walks on the other side the Ystwith, topped by rocks, which jut into the clouds, add to the uncommon style of nature by which we are surrounded. But the principal walks, and those of great extent are on the opposite side of the river. On crossing the lawn from the house, there is an appropriate wooden bridge over the Ystwith. Keeping along the road to the farm, you soon begin to rise from the val¬ ley in which the house and gardens are embosomed. The road leads to the top of the mountain ; but after having ascended some time, a narrow path to the left, car¬ ried upon a very high level, cut with great labour out of the rock, leads through the most romantic recesses of this interesting place. Suddenly a mass of this material seems to stop all further progress, but on ap. proaching it, the solid mountain is found to be perforated. After this dark chasm, the path winds round the front of a mossy promontory, which unfolds, from it’s aw¬ ful heights, a full view of the beautiful snd sublime effects combined in this cx- raordinary domain. Standing on a nar¬ row ledge, half way up the rock, with a perpendicular precipice below and anoth¬ er of equal height above, we have on one side, the river sweeping through the val¬ ley, and dividing it into equal parts, har¬ moniously corresponding as well in mag¬ nificence as extent. On the other side, the largest of many of those mountain tor¬ rents which embellish or make grand this glorious scene, forces its way down to loin the Ystwith, it’s roar loud and inces¬ sant. Cultivated fields, intermixed with all this wild beauty, a range of opposite jhills, the elegant church spire, and their oncomilant objects carry admiration from point to point, causing us to hesitate whether to prefer the nearer or more dis¬ tant objects, the ruder aspect of nature in rer majestic mood, or the judicious efforts ,jf sensible and modest art, to graft con. FOD. 506 venience and improvement on the pecu¬ liarities of mountain scenery, withoutcon- tending tastelessly against it’s character. On emerging from the forest, we soon ar. rive upon a tumulously formed knoll, lof¬ ty, verdant, and unincumbered, which commands a still more extensive prospect of the valley, and takes in nearly the whole of Hafod. Continuing round the brow of this majestic hill, we suddenly close in up¬ on the brook, which forms a remarkable feature in these grounds. A cascade of great force announces itself. A dark hol¬ low in the rock attracts our notice on the right. The termination forwards of the passage seems to disappoint our hopes, when, on turning suddenly to the left, a rude aperture admits the light and a spark¬ ling sheet of water in front, urges it’s per¬ pendicular fall from the rock above into a deep hole below the cave. The most striking feature, is the luminous appear¬ ance of the foaming element, seen from so dark a station, glittering as with gems. After descending, by steps of loose slate, from the eminence at which the first jet of the whole brook is seen, a rude bridge leads across the channel of the torrent. In front of the bridge at a little distance, the stream .comes tumbling over in a con¬ tinued fall of about 100 feet, including that part of it which has already been des¬ cribed. The portion here presented to our admiration, is where the over flowing of the deep boiler projects itself angularly over the smooth rock, and leaps down the ledges of it’s rugged and precipitate de¬ scent, in a broken shower of stormy foam. After having crossed the torrent, at the bottom of it’s perpendicular fall, and ex¬ hausted the topics of contemplation upon it’s brink, we may follow it’s steep de¬ clivity on the northern side, till it joins the main river. The path is commodious and agreeably diversified. After descend¬ ing a few paces, a resplendent little rill trickles down the rock above our heads, and contracts it’s diminutive beauties with the great cascade. The scene is narrow and tortuous, lofty, and overshadowed; a little fall, at every angle, arrests attention; below, the rugged bottom seems yawning to receive us; behind, the crag projects above our heads. At length the dingle joins the more extended valley; a long and steep descent of rude steps, conducts us to the artificial dam, A piece of graz- 56 7 IIAFOD. 508 ing ground, renews our acquaintance with the impetuous Ystwith. After crossing it by the stone bridge and again crossing the other mountain brook below the mill-cas¬ cade, we decline into a sheltered walk, level with the river, which leads us to the flower garden, ornamented with a Doric temple, from a design in Stuart’s Athens. There is another flower garden, to which strangers are not admitted. Almost behind the wall of the lower gar¬ den, there is a very grand rock. The top is a natural platform, on which is erected a column to the memory of the late duke of Bedford. The cold bath is the only ob¬ ject, to detain attention, in the seques¬ tered path from the lower flower-garden to the lawn : but there are many other walks of large compass and extensive variety, about the grounds, not to be ex¬ plored in a single day. In particular the road towards Yspytty Ystwith, which is eloquently described by Mr. Cumberland in his successful “Attempt to describe Hafod,” a pamphlet of 50 pages, well worth consulting by those who intend to explore Hafod in every direction. Re¬ specting the grounds at Hafod, one pleas¬ ing reflection may be made. While most of the fine residences are finished or going to decay, Hafod is in it’s infancy. In 1785 when mr. Johnes determined to settle here, it was a wilderness. In 1S03 Hafod was as here described. From October 1795 to April 1801, the number of trees planted on this estate amounted to 2,065,000, of which 1,200,000 were larch¬ es, without including the land sown with acorns. The agricultural plan here pur¬ sued has been given to the public, in a small pamphlet called “ A Caerdiganshire Landlord’s Advice to his Tenants.” The number of labourers employed about the farm is very great, and their comfortable cottages interspersed among the woods, with the houses of the bailiffand gardener, aspiring even to elegance, convey more the idea of a flourishing colony, than of a private gentleman’s residence. On the anniversary of a particular birth-day, it is the custom at Hafod to entertain all the tenants and labourers on the estate, who have formed themselves into a friendly society, with their wives and families; nor are the doors closed against any strangers from the neighbourhood who may ac¬ cidentally present themselves at the festive scene. The table has often been spread, not on the lawn, or in the servant’s hall, but in the entrance hall and dining-room, ornamented as they are with valuable pic¬ tures and other articles of costly furniture. If the visitors be too numerous to be ac¬ commodated in these, other apartments are thrown open for their reception, or rather none are shut. The family are al¬ ways at the head of the party, and the dance succeeds the pleasures of the table. The zeal and activity of the labourers, &c» on two occasions of fire have proved them not ungrateful nor heedless of the interests of a good master, tho’ they do not hesitate in defrauding him of a little work. A school for the gratuitous education of girls, has been for some time opened, under the direction of mrs. Johnes, and another for boys has been in contemplation. A sur¬ geon and apothecary has an annual pension for his attendance on the cottagers of the estate. A Printing-house, with the neces¬ sary materials for carrying on extensive works has been formed in these grounds. Here have been printed the voluminous translations from Froissart, J oinville, Broc- quiere, and Monstrelet. The compiler, in common with every friend to learning and the polite arts, joins in lamenting the total loss, by fire, of the elegant and magnificent mansion of Hafod, the residence of a man whose name is the rapturous theme of every traveller who has visited this part of the principality. This dreadful accident occurred on Friday the 13th of March, 1807, at a quarter past 3 in the morning, when mrs. Johnes was awakened by the fire, and immediately alarmed the family. Mr. Hanbury Wil¬ liams, of Colebrook, near Usk, in Mon¬ mouthshire, was at the house on a visit. Mrs. Johnes aud her daughter attempted to save some of the principal books in the gallery, but could not remain there long enough to render much service. Mr. Wil¬ liams and his servant completely cleared four book-cases below of their contents, at which time, the lead pouring down in showers, drove them thence. The plate and some furniture, pictures, china, and glass, were saved, but the major part of the books, furniture, including magnifi¬ cent French glasses, wine, linen, stores, marble busts, mosaic, musical instruments, 569 HAF ornaments, rnrs. Johnes’s private library, dressing-plate, jewels, trinkets, lace, and all her wardrobe, together with the man¬ sion, were consumed. From the period of the destruction of the Alexandrian Li¬ brary, no greater loss, perhaps, has befallen literature than the conflagration at Hafod, by which a collection of many very rare and expensive volumes, a fine collection of welsh manuscripts, and other invalua¬ ble articles, forming a rich collection, the fruit of 40 years’ pursuit, were destroyed. No catalogue of this treasure was ever made. Mrs. Johnes and mr. Williams think that the flames were upon the gar¬ ret floor when they arose. Mrs. Johnes attributed the misfortune to the careless use of a warming pan, in the housekeep¬ er’s chamber; the house-keeper charges the house-maids with taking hot ashes from under the grate and leaving them in scuttles under the stairs, instead of empty¬ ing them in the proper place. The seclud¬ ed situation of Hafod prevented assistance; none could be obtained but from the in¬ mates, 3 men and the gardener, 3 ladies, and about 8 female servants. An engine was indeed upon the premises, but no one present could work it; the flames there¬ fore, were uninterrupted in their progress; so that in the short space of 3 hours, ex¬ cept the turrets at the corners, the bare walls only remained, a melancholy me¬ mento of the former splendour of the place. Mr. Johnes was in town attend¬ ing his parliamentary duties, and did not arrive to the solace of his family, till Wed¬ nesday the 18th instant. The conduct of mr. Johnes, who has suffered severely by this melancholy event, is in the highest de¬ gree honourable to his character; nor is that of the directors of the British and Im¬ perial Fire-Offices less entitled to the praise of liberality. The extent of the loss, as far as it has been possible to ascer¬ tain a loss of such vast and various magni¬ tude, has been estimated by mr. Abbott, who acted as agent for both offices, with great ability, perspicuity and judgment. It was finally adjusted at 20,584/. The entire loss has been estimated at 70,000/. With that enthusiasm which led mr. Johnes to devote his life and fortune to the creation of a paradise out of a wil¬ derness, he intends still to inhabit his Eden, in spite of this flaming minister, and still to divide his rural leisure between agri. OD. 570 cultural improvements and literary la¬ bours. Most men would think it too late in life to set to work a second time ; but let us yet hope to see a Phoenix rise from the ashes. Indeed the indefatigable in¬ dustry of mr. Johnes and his perseverance and assiduity in improving and perfecting his domain, have only been equalled by his more than human reconciliation to one of the most disastrous accidents that could have befallen a man of taste and learning, whose life had been passed in producing a most astonishing specimen of the power of culture, and a concentration of litera¬ ture, elegance, and the fine arts. The rooms submitted to the inspection of strangers, were a hall, music-room, sum¬ mer and winter dining-rooms, a library, and a drawing-room, each rich and appro¬ priate in their ornaments. In the hall were two large pictures by Hodges, from passages in the voyages of captain Cook. A Newfoundland Dog by Opie. A horse and a spaniel by Gilpin. A fruit piece by Michael Angelo Caravaggio. Still Life, probably by Roestraten. Sir Charles Hanbury Williams, a copy from Mengs. The portrait of a lady. A bust of Caracalla. Lava from Vesuvius. In the Music Rooms, the Holy Family by Baroccio. The Lord Chancellor Thur- low, and R. P. Knight, esq.; the latter by Laurence. Heroditus with John the Bap¬ tist’s head by Michael Angelo Caravaggio. A ruined alchymist, by Salvator Rosa. Portrait of Mr. Johnes of Llanvair, by sir Godfrey Kneller. The bridge of St. Mauri- enne by Deane. The assumption of the virgin, by Beneditto Luti. Elijah by Rem¬ brandt. A sleeping beauty by Guido and his mistress Elizabetha Sirani. A Descent from the Cross by Vandyck, in the style of his master Rubens. Two landscapes by Berchem and Both, with several other pictures. A Salvator Hominum by Mu- ralez, a Spanish painter surnamed El Divi- no. Two views of Matavai Bay in Ota- heite and Funchal, one of the Azores, by Hedges. Two pictures by Claude; in one of them is iutroduced the arch at An¬ cona. Tables of verde antique and ala- bastro antico, with corners of phorphyry, a studio of different marbles, and a bust of miss Rose, daughter of Geo. Rose, esq. by Banks, made up the remaining orna¬ ments of this elegant and classic room. In the Dining-room there was a family 571 HAFOD. 572 picture by Romney. The persons in¬ troduced were mr. mrs. and miss Johnes, major general J. Lewis, anddoctorSteven- son, of Llandyssul. The chimney-piece was from the classical chissel of Banks. The heads of Socrates, Plato, Alcibiades, Sappho, and 3 other ancient worthies formed it’s principal ornaments. In the Winter Dining room was a Cleopatra by Guercino. The Vale and Cascatella of Tivoli, by Delany. Elijah fed by ravens, which came from the monastrey of Talley, in Caermarthenshire, supposed to be the performance of one of the earliest masters, as Cimabua, Giotto, or John Van Eyck, the first painter in oil. The Lower row consisted of a sketch by Vandyck. A view of Newcastle in Emlun by Ibbes- ton. A portrait of R. P. Knight, by Web¬ ber. A view of Aberystvvith by Ibbes- ton. A portrait of mr. Robert Liston, of Wickstead. Four coloured drawings of scenes within the precincts of Hafod, by Jones, the Cambrian artist. A bust of the late duke of Bedford, by Nollekins. The Anti-library was arranged in the form of a chapel, in which were placed some very curious painted glass, from a Flemish convent. A bust of Lord Thurlow, by Rossi. The Library was an octagon, surrounded by a gallery, supported by pil¬ lars of variegated marble, of the doric order. Over the fire-place was an antique head of Isis, in red granite, and an antique Mosiac, from Adrian’s villa. On the man¬ tel, weTe busts of mrs. and miss Johnes, by Banks ; a petrifaction found in the old bed of the Nile ; and a fragment of the base of Pompey’s column at Alexandria. This room contained a most valuable col¬ lection of books, among which were Sir John Sebright’s collection of Welsh manu¬ scripts; and many very rare and beautiful French manuscripts, and other scarce pub¬ lications. In the adjoining conserva- toiy 160 feet long, and abounding with the most curious plants, was an exquisite piece of sculpture by Banks ; the subject Thetis dipping Achilles in the river Styx. The Drawing-room was completely furnished with gobelin tapestry, of great beauty and brilliancy. The colonade front was occupied by another suite, but never shewn to accidental visitors. On the Road to Pont y Monach, is crossed Maen Arthur. The hill is bold, rugged, and barren. On gaining the top, the ground continues high, and seems to justify the opinion that this is a county of excavations. Llanidloes road then opens a partial view of that mighty dingle, where the rivers Mynach and Rhydul unite their torrents. In front is the great fall of the Rhydol, shrinking apparently into a cas¬ cade of small dimensions. A gentle de¬ scent gradually unfolds the scenery to view, till at length it breaks upon the sight in full display at Pont y Monach. To Tregaron, mr. Evans passed the un- sculpturcd stone, a short distance from Hafod, called Maen Arthur, and passing the dreary cwm, I spill y Ystwith, reached Istrail Meing, where formerly stood a cas¬ tle. At this place is a grammar school, well endowed. This district is very mountainous. Here is the remarkable Cragnaull'm, mentioned by Leland, whence may be seen 9 lakes; i. e. Llyn Hclign, Llyn Teifi, Llyn Hir, Llyn Gorlan, Llyn Gronv, Llyn Verydden Fychan, Llyn Verydden Vawr, Llyn Ynigen Vclin, and Llyn Du. The mountains from Cragnaul- lin form a magnificent amphitheatre, but with one apparent entrance, which is Kant Teifi. In one of the contiguous val¬ leys is Ystrad Fleur or the abbey of Strata Florida, in the parish of Tregaron, dis¬ tant 3 miles. Following the course of the river, the poor but populous village of Rkydfendigakl (the blessed ford) is reach¬ ed. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in lead mines, and the principal part of them are of the methodist persuasion. Re¬ ligion has influenced this athletic race much, in suppressing their habit of hav¬ ing a community of wives. The sides of the hills in this district appear clothed with woods, which abound with the Vac- cinium myrtillus, Rubus cassius, and R. idaeus. In a large meadow in one of these bottoms is Ffynnon Elwad, a water celebrated for curing all complaints of the female breast. The land hence from the Teivi to Llyn y Macs, or the Lake of the Field, (where tradition says once stood a town) is one continued marshy bog, a- bounding in turbaries, till you reach Tre¬ garon. Travellers from the metroplis, who are desirous of ascending to fine places in a regular scale, mr. Cumberland advises them to begin at the village of Tintern, near Chepstow, which tho’ little noticed, even by those who magnify the pretty 573 IIAFOD. landscapes near the Wye, is yet abundant¬ ly picturesque and rural; and where an artist possessed of the rare talent of know¬ ing how to choose, might soon fill his portfolio. He should next devote 3 or 4 days to PieRsfield, and then ascend the Wye from Monmouth, up as far as Here¬ ford ; next follow it by Buallt, and the Hay, to Rhaiader bridge, taking the Falls of Elan, on the way ; thence passing by the picturesque lake and torrent of Llyn G-xyn, which is about 2 miles from Rhaiader bridge, it is easy by turning a little over to the right to regain the high road to Hafod and Aberystwitb. From Hafod to Rhaiader, rar. Skrine, passed through the miserable village of Cuimystwith, which lies almost buried be¬ neath high hills, and entering Radnorshire, coasted the river Elan for several miles. Having gained the summit of the C-xm- tylhing hills, he had an uninterrupted re¬ trospect over the dreary expanse he had passed. On the banks of the Elan, mr. Grove has built a house, and formed an ornamented domain, [see Rhaiader.] Except this place the whole track appear¬ ed bare and uncultivated ; “ nor do I ever remember,” says mr. Skrine, “ a more dreary solitude than that which prevailed on the Cwm-tythen hills, where not a single tree or human habitation varied the scene. At last, however, a glorious view was disclosed over the spacious plain in which the Wye flows, besides the town of Rhaiader ; which place he entered over a bridge of a single arch. To Tregaron, 18 miles, Barber; Evans. — Font y Monach, 4 miles, Malkin; Warner’s two walks ; Lipscomb. — Rhaiader, 17 miles, Skrine. — Aberystwitb, 14 miles. # / // rw -A *-•■* r/ / / ** + A /y A7 AA/ /A/A/ AAAAAAAA From Maentwrog, 10 miles, Bingley; Skrine. -Maentwrog, by way of Rhaiader du, 12 miles, Wyndham. ——Barmouth, 10 miles, Pennant; Evans. -Penmorfa, 7 miles, Warner. HARLECH, or Harddlech, (a bold rock) is in the cwmwd of Ardudwy, cantref of Dunodig (now called the hundred of Ar¬ dudwy,) in the county of Merioneth, and parish of Llandanwg. Tho' the county town, it is a poor place, situated upon a bare rock. It is remarkable for nothing besides it’s castle, which is built upon a HARLECH. 574 cliff overhanging the marsh upon the sea- coast near Caerdigan bay. The name of this fortress is said to be derived from it’s situation, originally called Twr Bronvven, from Bronvven (the fair necked) sister to Bren ap Llyr, duke of Cornwall, and sub- sequently king of Britain. In the 11th century it was denominated Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tango, one of the 15 tribes of N. Wales. He lived in the time of Anarawd, about a. d. 877, and resided in a square tower, of which there are some remains. According to some of the british Historians Harlech castle was built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, prince of N. Wales, about the year 350, and it is gener¬ ally believed that Edward 1, built this castle upon the ruins of the former. It appears to have been completed before the year 1083 ; for Hugh de Wlonkeslow was the constable with a salary of 100/ In the 44th year of Eliz. the constable’s al¬ lowance was no more than 50/. In 1404, this castle, along with that of Aberyst- with, in Caerdiganshire, was seized by the ambitious Owen Glyndwr, during his rebellion against Henry 4. They were both retaken about 4 years afterwards by an army which the king dispatched into Wales. Margaret of Anjou, the spirit¬ ed queen of Henry 6, after the king’s de¬ feat at Northampton in 1460, fled from Coventry, and found an assylum in this fortress. Edward 4, expected, to make himself master of every part of the king¬ dom, but Dafydd ap If an ap Einion a friend to the house of Lancaster held out in this castle till 1468. The castle was however at last surrendered to an army under the command of William Herbert, earl of Pembroke. During the civil wars, this fortress was ably defended by sir Hugh Pennant, till deserted by his men, when it fell into the possession of the par¬ liamentarian forces; was again repossessed by the loyalists; and finally taken in March 1647, by a force under general Mytton. It was the last castle in Wales which held out for the king. The present constable is sir Robert Vaughan, bart. This castle is utterly unassailable on the side overhanging the sea, and on the other it was protected by a prodigious wide and deep foss, cut at an immense expense, through the solid rock. Even still does it exhibit a grand square building, with a circular tower at each corner, and one 575 IIARLECIL 576 bastion on each side the grand entrance, with elegant machiolated turrets, issuing out of the large rounders, similar to those of Caernarvon and Conwy. It is however going quickly to decay. The town tho’ a free borough, with various other grants and immunities, is reduced to a very humble village, consisting of a few poor cottages. The accommodations here are neither superior nor elegant. The prin¬ cipal public house is kept by a civil man called VVatkin Atinwyl, where, however, a clean and comfortable double-bedded room may be had. Those persons com¬ ing from Barmouth, whom such accom¬ modations do not suit, must, if they intend to proceed to Beddgelert, either wait for a proper state of the tide for passing the sands, or proceed by a circuitous route over the mountains to Tan y bwlch. An intelligent man named John Richards un¬ dertakes to conduct the traveller either among the mountains, or over the sand to Beadgelart, but it is highly dangerous to attempt the latter course over Traeth Mawr, when the sands have been observed to shift, as is sometimes the case. [See a very interesting memoir of Richards in the rev. J. Evans’s intelligent Letters writ¬ ten during a Tour in N. Wales, 8vo. 3d edit, page 128.] The population ap¬ pears to be so small that it did not become an object of separate enumeration ; it was included in the returns made to Llan- danwg. The market-day is Saturday, and fairs are holden March 4, April 19, first Thursday after Trinity Sunday, June 30, Aug. 21, Sep. 22, Nov. 10, Dec. 11. From the roman coins which have been discovered here, the place is conjectured to have been a fortified post of the romans, to defend the openings of the two Traeths, and secure a communication with the op¬ posite shore. It was certainly an early british post. From the castle, if the atmosphere happens to be clear, may be seen the peaked summit of Snowdon, elevated much above the other mountains; the promontory of Llyn, Crickaeth cas¬ tle, and the entire bay of Caerdigan. About Harlech grows the Eryngium mari- timum ; near the castle, Sambucus ebulus, and Brassica oleracea; and within Circsea lutetiana; upon the walls. Sisymbrium tenuifolium; among rubbish on the Marsh, Borago officinalis; in the marsh, Anthemis nobilis j upon banks by the road side near the town, Astragalus hypoglottis ; on the coast Juncus glaucus. Near this place is a curious antique monument, called Coeton Arthur, con¬ sisting of a large flat stone, lying hori¬ zontally, supported by 3 others. The supporters are about 20 inches square, two of them are 8 feet high, and the incum¬ bent stone, inclining to an oval is 11 feet in length. About 1692, an ancient gold¬ en Torques was dug up in a garden near the castle, which is described as a wreath¬ ed bar, or 3 or 4 rods twisted together, and about 4 feet long; flexible, but bent in the shape of a hatband, with hooks at each end, neither sharp nor twisted, but plain, and cut even, of a circular form, about an inch in circumference, and weighed 8 ounces. This valuable relict of antiquity is in the Mostyn library at Tremostyn-hall. [See Gough's Camden, iii, 174.] Several roman coins have also been found in and near the town. Not far from the castle* is an old roofless building, once the town- hall, in which it is said the Members of Parliament for Merionethshire continue to be elected. In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was much alarmed by a kind of fiery exhalation, or Mephetic Va¬ pour, which arose from a sandy marshy tract of land, called Morfa Bychan, (the little marsh) across the channel, 8 miles towards Harlech, and injured much of the country, by poisoning the grass in such a manner as to kill the cattle, and firing hay and corn ricks for near a mile from the coast. It is represented to have had the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any great noise, such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of horns, was easily extinguished. All the damage was done invariably in the night, and in the course of the winter not less than 16 hay-ricks and 2 barns, one filled with corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it. It did not appear to affect any thing else, and mcncould go into it without receiving any injury. It was observed at different times during 8 months. The occasion of this singular phenomenon has not been ac¬ curately conjectured. The vicinity of Harlech abounds with numerous monu¬ mental remains, particularly such as have been thought to originate in the bardic system, or druidic rites. On the ascent and summit of a precipitous hill are several circles formed of loose stones, placed at 578 HARLECH. certain distances. OF these some are single, others concentric, one circle being inscribed within a second; in other places one intersects another. One of the dou¬ ble kind is upon an elevated moor overlook¬ ing the town. Most of these haveamaen hirion or upright stone placed in the cen¬ tre. Some of them may probably have been the work of shepherds to clear the land for pasturage, or druidic circles* in which were held the bardic meetings, termed Gorseddau. Borlase mentions several instances of such circles in the vicinity of Botallek in Cornwall, which he thinks were formed for the perform¬ ance of religious rites. Cwm Bycan or the Little Hollow lies about 4m. distant. It is a narrow grassy dell, opening with a small pool or lake, on the r. called Llyn y cwm bychan, and tho’ not a mile in length is encompassed with scenery the most black and dreary, Among the impending rocks is Carreg y sueth, or the Rock of the Arrow, (from being a station taken by british sportsmen for watching and killing red deer) tower¬ ing above the rest in frowning dignity. From another crag beside the lake the rug¬ ged beauties of this romantic hollow may be viewed, enclosed by stupendous rocks, relieved but scantily with meagre patches of vegetation. Upon the other side of the mountain is a chasm called Bwlch tyddiacl. The sequestered spot of Cwm hychan is the property of a family named Llwyd, who derive their descent from Cynfyn, prince of N. Wales. The mansion is an unadulterated specimen of the seats of the ancient welsh gentry ; the furniture rude, and the mode of living suitable to the cir¬ cumstances of theplace. Descending the adjoining mountainous ridge, an ancient arch thrown from rock to rock, over a dismal water, excites a gloom which is quickly relieved by the sight of a mill up¬ on a collateral rock, accessible only by this alpine bridge. A few venerable oaks relieve the rugged scenery of the place. Ascend a hill called Dinas Porchellyn, whence the distant horizon exhibits a wild space of rocky mountains and desert heaths. This pass and that of Drws Ardud- wy (the door of Ardudw'y) were antient- ly fortified places. They are openings through the vast ridges of elevated land, which intersect this country in almost every direction. These present the most 20 formidable appearances. The sides and bottom of Drws Ardudwy are covered with huge large stones, imbedded in a deluge of others of a smaller size. The road is a narrow horse path upon the side of the slippery rock ; in others it assumes the form of narrow flights of steps. Between thispassand Corsy gedol are two small lakes or rather pools. Llyn Bodlyn lies beneath an abrupt precipice, and abounds with char fish. Llyn cwm How- el, is noted for a singular species of trout, [see 64 vol. Phil. Trans.] Another small lake is called Llyn Jrddin. Upon this plain are numerous druidic remains. Per¬ haps in no part of Britain is there remain¬ ing such an assemblage. In travers¬ ing this dreary waste the traveller’s atten¬ tion will be arrested by Craig y ddinas, a conic hill, having it’s summits surround¬ ed by a vast heap of rough stones, suppos¬ ed to have been an ancient british fortified post, so early as the time of the roman in¬ vasion. It has an oblique entrance with stbne facings, and near it are two similar stone ramparts. The situation is upon the extreme verge of a mountain adjoining one of those narrow passes, which form defiles into the interior of the country. Upon another eminence, at no great dis¬ tance, is Castell ddinas Cortin, an entrench¬ ed camp, with an advanced work in front. Upon the plain beneath are several druidic remains, such as cromlechs, carnedds, stone circles, and meini hirion. At a short distance from the 5th mile stone from Harlech to Barmouth, a little out of the road on the 1. are tvVo cromlechs near each other. Mr. Binglcy made an ex¬ cursion to Cwm Bychan. lm. from the town, Richards, who was his guide, point¬ ed out a circle of stones 30 yards in diame¬ ter. Alter visiting the dreary hollow which was the object of his pursuit, ho entered a vale more wide and fertile, called Cxum Nancoll. (the hollow of the sunken brook). Out of the track 2m. s. of Har¬ lech is a Cromlech in a farm called Gviern Einion. On the side of the hill on which the road passes, in a wood, is a consider¬ able cataract. [Mr. Thomas Evans, in his “ Cambrian Itinerary,” calls this ca¬ taract Rkaiadr-du, or the Black Cataract, and describes it as follows. “ In this ca¬ taract, surrounded with dark impending scenery, the water is thrown with vast impetuosity over 3 black and smooth 580 579 HARLECH. rocks, each in a different direction. Of the manor was Gwyddno Garanhir, fa¬ il's height, no idea can be formed, as the top of the upper fall, by the winding of the rocks, is rendered invisible from be¬ low, yet forms a fine object for a landscape. The sides are also very steep and slippety, consequently too dangerous to think of clambering up, and in many places so ex¬ tremely dark, from the thick foliage which surrounds the fall, as to appear mouths of deep dungeons, the abodes only of damp and horror.”] Between this cromlech and the town of Harlech is another druidic circle. At the ebb of the tide part of a long stone wall which runs out into the sea from Mochras, a point of land a few miles s. of Harlech, may be seen. It is called Sam Badrig, or St. Patrick’s cause¬ way, an astonishing work being through¬ out 24 feet thick. It runs out to sea in a serpentine manner, about 22 miles, from the coast of Merionethshire, about half way between Harlech and Barmouth. It’s principal city is supposed to have been at Caer IVyddno, or Gwyddno’s city. This Gwyddno was the last of its princes, and flourished from about the year 460 to 520 ; he was surnamed Garanhir. At the end of Sam Badrig are 16 large stones, one of which is 4 yards in diameter. Sam y Bwlch runs from a point n-w. of Harlech, and is supposed to meet the end of this. It appears at low water, near the mouth of the Dysynni. The space between these, formed, several centuries ago, a habitable hundred of Merionethshire, cal¬ led Cantref Gwaelod, the lowland hundred. Those walls were built to keep out the sea Sam signifies a causeway or pavement. These ridges of huge stones are supposed the work of art; while others think them skeletonsofhills reduced into their present state by the repeated action of the tides. The oracles of the cloister have said that the latter sarn was a footpath miraculously formed by St. Patrick, to expedite his pas¬ sage to and from Ireland. That this part of the sea was formerly dry land, seems to be well attested by immemorial tradition. The catastrophe of it’s being deluged is also recorded in ancient verse, preserved in very old M.S. called the Black Book of Caermarthen. The inundation is said to have happened about the year 500, owing to the negligence of a drunkard of the name of Seithennin, who left the sluces of the embankment open. The baron of ther to Elphin, patron of Taliesin, prince of the bards in the w. The road to Barmouth is even and good, but dull and uninteresting, except the continual exhibition of the unbounded ocean. In a field by the road side, near Llanbedir are two upright stones, standing near each other, the one about 10, the other 6 feet high. They are probably what the British called Meini Gwyr, (the stones of the heroes), or funeral monu¬ ments, to the memory of their ancient deified warriors. A few hundred yards beyond the 5th mile-stone, and at a little distance on the left of the road, are two Cromlechs very near each other, placed on barrows, or heaps of loose stones. The largest is 12 feet by 9, and the quoit or upper stone about 20 inches thick With¬ in about 4 miles of Barmouth is Cors-y- gedol. The gateway which forms the en¬ trance to the court of this mansion is an example of this kind of appendage as it prevailed about the close of the 16th cen¬ tury. They were sometimes constructed as this is, with a gateway to form the principal entrance, allowing room for a carriage to pass through; others without a passage, served for a porter’s lodge. The upper story of many was appropriated to a dove-cot; in either case their external form was nearly the same. Corsygedol was the baronial residence for many gener¬ ations of the family of Vaughan, descend¬ ed from Osburn, an irish nobleman, who, coming to the assistance of his kinsman, the prince of N. Wales, he was rewarded with extensive territories in Merioneth¬ shire. He first fixed himself at Lys Os¬ born, not far from Corsygedol, but he af¬ terwards moved hither. In the failure of the male issue the estate fell in the female line to sir Roger Mostyn, bart. now pos¬ sessed by his son, sir Thopaas Mostyn, who occasionally visits it. The pea¬ sants of this country still chant with the harp some verses composed in celebration of a noted oak tree, which formerly grew on mr. Oakeley’s estate at Ganllwyd in this neighbourhood. The trunk of 15 feet in length, and 25g in circumference, mea¬ sured 609 cubic feet. From the fork it divided into several branches, 3 of which extended to the length of 45 feet. There are about half a dozen of it’s descendents now standing upon Tan y Bwlch demesne. 582 581 HARLECH. HAVERFORDWEST. one measuring 9£ feet in circumference at the height of 5 feet. Little attaches to this mansion except the fine wood which surrounds it. These are so much affected by the w. winds which blow from the sea that the tops of the trees are stunt¬ ed like those at Margam in Glamorgan¬ shire. Llanyber at the distance of near¬ ly 2 miles, is the parish church of Bar¬ mouth. The road to Maentwroc lies up a difficult stair-case path, on the side of a craggy mountain, in a north-easterly di¬ rection over a trackless plain, known to guides by upright stones called Maen hiri- on, and concentric circles of stones. A tumulus and carnedd, larger than the rest, is distinguished by the title of King Jngo's Tomb. The place is also called Bon-leff Hir, or the loud shout to battle. About the end of the 6th mile is the small lake called Uyn Tegztynisa, and near it the little village and church of llan Tegwyn ; a little farther, surrounded by lofty moun¬ tains, is the fine lake of Uyn Tegccyn ucha; (the fair and lovely) a name which this secluded and enchanting scene well deserves. The road is a narrow path along the shelf of a rocky declivity, after which it descends into a deep glen, thick with trees. Passing over a black stream called Velyn Rhyd (the yellow ford), the turnpike is passed near the village of Maentwroc, where there are comfort¬ able accommodations, The inn of Tan y bwlch lies over a bridge of 3 arches across the Dvynjd at the distance of a mile. To Cwm Bychan, &c. and back to Harlech, 20 miles; thence to Barmouth, 10 miles, Bingley. — Tan-y-bwlch, 10 miles, Evans. — Barmouth, 10 miles, Warner. — Maentwrog, 9 miles, Pennant. Back to Tan-y-bwlch, 13 miles, Wyndham; Skrine. From Milford, 8 miles, Barber; Evans; Skrine; Fenton. Back from Carew Castle, Fenton. -St. Davids, 14 miles, Malkin. -Pembroke, by water 15 miles, Wyndham. -Pembroke, by the turnpike road, 10 miles. -Narberth, loj miles. -Cardigan, miles. HAVERFORDWEST, in Welsh, Castell HwlfFordd, contains 613 houses, 2S80 in¬ habitants, and returns one member to par¬ liament. It is beautifully situated upon an eminence above the navigable river IVest Cleddau, once the capital of the pos¬ sessions of the Flemmings, in the time of Wm. Rufus and his son Henry, and was certainly well placed for the purpose of defending the promontory of Roos, which these people, after driving out the inhabi¬ tants, began to occupy. [Hollinshed, ii. 34.] It was fortified by a very strong Castle, built upon a rocky eminence over¬ hanging part of the town and the river, and surrounded by an embattled wall en¬ tered by 4 gates. These gates are all down, and little more of the castle re¬ mains than the keep. From these frag¬ ments it seems to have extended from St. Martin’s eastward, towards the river, having upon each side a deep ravine, the margin of which was followed by the out¬ er wall, flanked with bastions. The re¬ maining superb portion of the castle has been converted into a county jail^the ex¬ pense of which was trifling, in comparison of what would have been required to build a new prison. The only objection that can be made to the alterations in this building is that the modern additions are not in unison w r ith the architecture of the adjoining parts; but this is not to be attributed to the judicious design of mak¬ ing the castle into a prison, but to the want of judgment in the architect. Such violent outrages against common sense are not infrequent; and it must be lamented in consequence, that wealth or power is unfortunately sometimes connected with ignorance. The castle is ascribed to Gil¬ bert de Clare, the first earl of Pembroke, who made Haverford his occasional re¬ sidence. He appointed Richard Fitg Tancredhis castellan or governor, James 1, in the 7th year of his reign granted Haverfordwest a new charter with the of¬ fices of a mayor, sheriffs, bailiffs, and bur¬ gesses annexed. Ilordained that it should be a free town andcountv, distinct from all other counties. It appointed 24 common councilmen, 15 of them aldermen, the other brethren. The mayor to be coroner, escheator, and clerk of the market. Ia the town are 3 church.es, St. Mary's, St. Thomas’s and St. Marlin's, besides the Church of Pendergast in the suburb; and in the Bridge-street there was a house of black-friars preachers; and without the town, upon the banks of the river in a meadow below the quays a Priory of blac)t 584 583 HAVERFORDWEST. canons, founded and liberally endowed by Robert de Hwlt'ordd, first lord of Ha¬ verfordwest ; at the dissolution it was granted to Roger and Thomas Barlow. From the remains of the ruined walls that are yet standing, and the skeleton of the church, the establishment must have been very extensive. A dock yard exists with¬ in the sacred precincts. A good view of the church is given in mr. Fenton’s Pem¬ brokeshire taken from the marsh to the s-e. About {m. to the n. of the Priory, upon the banks of the river occupying the site of the inn now called the Black- horse, in Bridge-street, stood the house of the Friars Preachers. To Haverlordwest from its earliest period, there has something of importance always connected, which proves that some advantagesattach to it; the most ap¬ parent of which are its central situation with respect to the county, its conveni¬ ences for commerce, and the healthiness of its air. It's lordship or barony continued a gem in the crown for several centuries. If we take in the suburbs of Prendergast and Cartlet the town is unquestionably the largest in the county, if not in Wales. The best view of the town is on the ap¬ proach to it from the Narberth or Fish¬ guard roads. The principal part lies upon a steep declivity, facing the e. with a view of the mountains, sloping down to the Western Clcddau river. The streets are so steep, particularly High-street and Market-street, that they are unpleasant to those who walk, and dangerous to riders; but the descent contributes to the cleanli¬ ness and healthiness of the place. St. Mary's Church situated at the upper end of High-street, is much intercepted by the Toum-hall. It however, bears the air of a venerable cathedral-like building, being leaded, and has a parapet all round. The doorway is a pointed arch with mouldings and other decorations, The nave is lofty, ceiled with oak in square compartments, enriched with knots of carved foliage, similar to the chancel of St. Davids, and is separated from the side aisle by pointed arches, resting upon clustered pillars,with sculptured capitals of heads and other figures, but almost hid by the incrustation of frequent daubings of whitewash. A very lofty arch of the same character sepa¬ rates the nave from the chancel. The latter is lofty, but the ceiling is formed of plain oak beams without ornament. On each side of the entrance into it there were 8 stalls of old oak, those on the n. side still exist; the other have been re¬ placed by a seat of a modern fashion. The nave and chancel have an upper tier of windows above the arches, some lancet- shaped, and others of a later time. The e. window is large and the stone tracery rich. The tower of the church, which is of large dimensions, vyas formerly sur¬ mounted with a spire of considerable height, which added much to the good ap¬ pearance of the town, but has since been taken down in consequence of the damage it received during a violent storm. This church is a rectory in the gift of the cor¬ poration. The monuments are confined to the chancel, belonging principally to the Picton family of the Phillipses. A well-executed effigy has been disgrace¬ fully huddled among lumber at the e. end ol the church to make room for the remains of Sir John Pryse , of Newton hall, in Mont¬ gomeryshire, who lived some time at Haverfordwest, and died there. His family was ancient and he had a strong tinge of quixotism in his character. He had sur¬ vived three wives the last of whom he ar¬ dently loved Ever alive to the fascina¬ tion of beauty and good-nature, a short time before his death he became deeply smitten by a reigning toast. He went not to rest till his eyes had reposed on the man¬ sion of his beloved, or till he had introduc¬ ed under the door a poetic effusion, for which he had talents. At his death he left all his fortune from his own son to this young lady; who generously resigned it to it’s proper heir. He left a quiver of ar¬ row's accompanied with several sheets of paper filled with effusions of love, desiring the idol of his soul to precede his corpse to the grave bearing the devoted quiver. At the w. end of this church is a handsome gallery supplied with a grand organ. St. Marlin’s Church seems to be an ancient ap¬ pendant to the castle. It consists ofa nave Chancel and s. aisle, with a tower and stone spire. The nave and chancel are exten¬ sive and lofty, the latter is separated by a fine old arch reaching to the roof. Many of the windows are walled up and others contracted or transformed. In the chan¬ cel the recessed stalls on the s. side for the officiating priests are in a perfect state; on the n. under a plain canopy, is a thick 586 585 HAVERFORDWEST. tomb of gray stone, much defaced. The have never been duly estimated and dates upon it do not accord with it’s an- turned to account. At present a manu- tiquity. There are besides a marble tablet factory of brown paper is the only concern in the wall to some of the family of Le upon a scale any ways enlarged; and it Hunt, and another to a clergyman named serves but to prove the superabundancy of Harries, but nicknamed Parson Vigo, from coarse rags. The cotton-mills are at being chaplain on board a man of war at a stand. The Inns are the Castle, and the taking of that place. This was once Blue-boar. The Markets are on Tuesday part of the possessions of the Priory of and Saturday, supplied abundantly with Haverfordwest, and is now a vicarage in Fish, Flesh, and Poultry. The Fairs arc the patronage of Hugh Webb Bowen, esq. held on April 12, May 12, June 12, July Upon the summit of the hill, the acclivity 18, Sep. 4 and 24, and Oct. 18. The As- of which is occupied by the principal part sizes for the county of Pembroke, and for of the town, stands the Church of St. Thomas. It is said to have been built about 1225, if it be the same that is called in the annals of St. David the “ novum opus majoris ecclesiae S '- Thomae Haverfor- diae,” ’tis more probable that the priory was “ opus majoris ecclesiae.” The Town- Hall is a respectable building, but it is vilely placed, obstructing a view of the e. end of St. Mary’s church. The Old Jail joined the church-yard wall of St. Mary’s, but a new fabric, for the purposes of con¬ finement, lias been raised in St. Thomas’s Green, in an airy situation, freed from the disgraceful faults of the other. The Free- Schonl is well endowed. Among the char¬ itable institutions in the town, there is an Alms-house and a school for clothing and educating 24 boys and 12 girls, in reading, writing, and arithmetic, supported by the donation of mrs. Mary Howard, in 1684. Here are meeting-houses lor the presby- terian, the baptist, the moravian, the quakcr, and for the various shades of me- thodism. The town had once several chartered companies, the shoemakers’ on¬ ly have survived. In Glyndwr’s insur¬ rection the town of Haverfordwest, was garrisoned lor Edward 4, where the earl of Arundel made a gallant defence against the French forces, which had been sent to the assistance of the Welsh insurgents. In the civil wars this castle was garrisoned for the king, sir John Stepney being gov¬ ernor. Here is a Public fValk, traced upon the hill above the river, from which the ruins of the Priory open to a fine view of the mountains and other striking ob¬ jects at a distance, with the beautiful windings of the river just below. It is capable of great extension and improve¬ ment. Commodiously as the town is situated, yet it’s obvious natural advan¬ tages with respect to water and shipping the town and county of the town of Hav¬ erfordwest, are held in the parish of St. Mary. There is a remarkable echo on the s. side of the castle. The inhabit¬ ants draw their chief support from the in¬ flux of travellers passing between Mil- ford-haven and Waterford, Wexford, Cork, &c. for which purpose government pack¬ ets have been established, and sail daily between the haven and these places. Here is also a mail coach which forms a con¬ tinual communication between this place and the metropolis, Caermarthen, Swan¬ sea and Bristol. The suburb Pendergasl, from a family of that name, one of which gave the advowson andtythes of it’s church to the commandery of Slebech, but following thestandardof Strongbow, he transplanted his family to Ireland. Their successors in the property were the Joyces, the Cad- arnes, or Cathernes, and the Stepneys, who of late years sold it. The Church is a low mean building with a tower, and the nave has a side aisle separated by round arches resting upon round clumsy pillars with circular capitals. It contains no ancient monuments, but in the chancel are three mural marble tablets to some of the Picton family, and one to lady Philips, wife of the first sir John Philips, buried at St. Mary’s. The following epitaph was found among the papers of her sur¬ viving husband at his decease, evidently intended to have been inscribed to the memory of his wife. A dearer mother, mistress, wife, or friend, this age will hardly know, unless it mend ; the voice of all who knew her this confess'd, and this the voice of him who knew her best. May all with her the narrow path pursue, changing in time false pleasures for die true, and while they arc on earth have heaven in view. Descend to the margin of the rich mea¬ dows, upon the banks of the Cleddau to 587 HAVERFORDWEST. 588 the small remains of Pendergast Place, in¬ habited from the time of Elizabeth to that of Charles 2, by the Stepneys. It is now reduced to fragments. Ray saw it in 1662, and mentions it as “ a faire house.” Return, and at the entrance of the village of Cartlett cross the river by the draw¬ bridge, and thence over the quays to a path which commences at the ruins of the priory, and following the foot of the hill above the Priory marsh reach Haroldstone, for 300 years the residence of the Perrotts. The house is now entirely in ruins. Here was born sir John Perrott. By Edward 6 he was created knight of the Bath. In Mary’s time he was a courtier, and in the reign of Elizabeth he was lord deputy of Ireland. This office brought him the common fate of favourites, persecution and disgrace. In 1588 he was recalled, in 1592 arraigned at Westminster and found guilty of high treason. He died in the tower, which saved him from the igno¬ miny of a scaffold. An anonymous bi¬ ographer has drawn a portrait of his body and mind, in a volume published by Richard Rawlinson, l. l. d. of St. John’s Coll. Oxon; and his character appears in sir Robert Nounton’s Regalia, who lived near his time, and from Lloyd, not long after. About the beginning of the 17th century, on the marriage of Hester, the inheritrix of the place, with sir John Packington, bait, of Westwood, in Wor¬ cestershire, it was deserted, but continued to be let. The church has nothing to re¬ commend it, and remarkable only as con¬ nected with the legend of Cradoch the her¬ mit, who had his cell near it. In moving to Cakew, mr. Fenton took a boat at Haverfordwest, and with the morning tide fell down the river, which here takes many beautiful curves, it’s sides pleasingly fringed with wood. The Presselly Hills in the retrospect have a charming appearance. Pass a neat villa called Fern-hill, the residence of H. Mathias, esq. embosomed in tasteful plantations. A little farther on the n. side of the river appear the ruins of the venerable manson of Bohlon, or Bullston, occupied last by the Wogans, who left this place and went into Norfolk. The estate was purchased by colonel Ackland, who built a handsome modern house about £m. from the site of the old one, upon an elevat¬ ed part of the demesne. An open lawn down to the river leaves the prospect open towards Haverfordwest, while the house is skreened upon the other side by the venerable remains of the old forest. The Church is a peculiar, having a jurisdic¬ tion within itself. It is a plain structure, the monuments splendid, chiefly dedicat¬ ed to the Wogans. It would be difficult, asserts mr. Fenton, to select a spot in¬ cluding so many ingredients of beauty, consequence, and comfort, as Bolston, or where they are turned to greater account. Since col. Ackland entered upon this es¬ tate he superintended the opening a very large Tumulus, in circumference 300 feet and about 12 from the apex to the level of the surrounding ground, and it’s extreme edge maked by stones regularly placed, edgewise all round. When the turf had been removed, a small urn was discover¬ ed close under the surface, with the mouth upwards covered with a thin flag, entirely empty. Probably it had been filled with some liquor as a votive offering. Within 2 or 3 feet from the top the tumu¬ lus proved a heap of stones. About 3 feet lower appeared a rude cist lined with a kind of clay, wherein were deposited half-calcined human bones, mingled with charcoal, having in the middle a piece of flint which had been used for the purpose of polishing some substance. A week of uninterrupted labour with many hands employed would not have sufficed to have cleared the immense mass, so that the work was proceeded with no further. In the same field are other barrows of smaller circuit and less elevation. In proceed¬ ing down the river pass several inlets and shipping places, land at Llangwn on the r. famous for it’s fishery, particularly of oysters, sold at 6d. or 8 d. per 100; these are, with other fish, chiefly of the flat kind, brought every day to Haverford¬ west during the season. This poor vil¬ lage of fisher-men and women, consists of low, straggling houses, interspersed with trees, amid mountains of oyster shells, with a plain and towerless church : the interior contains two tombs, one of which bears the effigy of a crusader, in a war¬ like attitude, his right hand laid upon his sword, his left holding his shield. The armour for his neck is mail or ring work, that for his feet is of an uncommon kind. The canopy has the ogee sweep with 3 turns r. and 1. each turn containing one 589 HAVERFORDWEST. 690 smaller of corresponding work, and to the ogee sweep are crotchets and a finial. The figure represents one of the La Roch family. Upon the e. side of the entrance into the aisle there is a holy water niche of a most elegant and uncommon design, with a light canopy richly wrought, and a pillar to support it’s cistern, having it’s shaft, and pedestal, covered with unblaz¬ oned escutcheons. The whole structure of this chapel is singularly elegant, par¬ ticularly the entrance, formed of two pointed arches resting upon a plain octagon pillar, the piscina unique, and the sepul¬ chral recesses are of wrought Nolton stone. On the n. side of the communion rails there 1 $ a recumbent figure of a beautiful female. The incrustation which had been formed upon this figure and concealed it for ages, was removed by mr. Carter. On the w. side of the cemetery stands an old house overgrown with ivy, called the Cas¬ tle-House, probably as being subservient to Benton Castle. Somewhat less than 1 m. from the village is the mansion-house of flash, now in ruins, called so from a family of that name. Then Advenae came into possession, and afterwards the Cor¬ bels and the Owens. It now belongs to Hugh Rarlow, esq. the legal representa¬ tive of the late proprietor. From Llan- gwm make a digression, by going a little way upon the beach under over-arching trees, and entering a gate that leads you to a wood of oaks, through which a road winds and brings you to the summit of the hill, where, by looking towards the river, a prospect is presented so interesting and varied that language cannot describe it; a prospect that no spot in the county can in this respect parallel. The leading objects are the point of Milford haven where the 2 cleddaus join ; Llewhaden and it’s cas¬ tle, at the distance; Slebech, like a swan upon the banks of the stream ; Picton cas¬ tle with it’s rich woods, backed by a pleas¬ ing gradation of rich distances, up to the mountains; and just beneath is the strik¬ ing reach of Milford haven. Resuming our aquatic route, it is observable that the river in it’s windings, from Haverford¬ west even to Pembroke ferry, forms a series of lakes differing in shape and size as the boundaries are more or less indent¬ ed. At the mouth of the e. Cled- dau there is an earth-work called Rice Cas¬ tle, well placed to guard that inlet, and on the other side the quay and woods of Landshipping, where formerly stood a re¬ spectable old mansion, now unroofed and in ruins, a residence of the late sir Wm. Owen. Here is a very productive colliery. Adjoining is a tract of rich land gently sloping to the river called Coed Gantlais, where once stood the seat of a family named Perceval. At a sudden bend of the river see Benton Castle, upon a small projection of land, probably another ex¬ ploratory place for protecting the harbour. It is built nearly upon the same model as Roch Castle. The main tower is almost circular, the upper part ending in a highly finished octagon. There is adjoining a large space of uninclosed mountain ground. Exactly opposite, upon a nearly insulated tongue of land, is Lavcrenny, formed by Garron Pill, on one side, and Creswell estuary upon the other. The side next to the haven is richly wooded, where upon a conspicuous eminence stands the charming seat of Hugh Barlow, esq. with the appendages of a well stock¬ ed park, and extensive hot-houses. The house tho’ built in the cubic architecture of 1700, is disposed with taste, and has a conservatory adjoining the breakfasting room. Not far from the house is Laivren- ny, with it’s respectable Church. It is a rectory in the gift of the family. The sloping ground from the house descends to the banks of the river which branches into two estuaries, one going to Cresswell, the other ending at Carew, supplying fine objects to the front. Below the park is the Quay, where is shipped the coal brought from mr. Barlow’s extensive works. From Lawrenny mr. Fenton crossed in the ferry-boat to Upton, where are some remains of a castellated mansion, the ancient residence of the Malenfants, or Malefants, a great family now extinct. The estate is in the possession of the rev. — Evans, by marriage. The appendant chapel, a simple plain building, is much altered from it’s original figure. Op¬ posite the entrance, under a rich stone canopy, ornamented with small figures of the apostles, is the effigy of a warrior in complete mail. At a little distance a clenched hand issues from the wall, form¬ ing a candelabrum for burning a taper in. In the chancel, under a small plain recess is a flat stone in the pavement with an em¬ bossed head of a priest; and farther on. 591 HAVERFORDWEST. 592 within the communion rails, under a the Western Clcddau and round by the wrought canopy of stone, the figure of a lady, singularly habited. Upon the op¬ posite side a few neat mural marble tablets to the Bowens, who were the successors of the Malefants. A short walk produces a view of Carew castle. To Pembroke follow the Milford road to the Mawdlen Bridge, which here quit for another road to the 1. It passes over a high ridge, commanding various prospects, but is deep and unpleasant. About half way to the ferry, leave on the r. Clareston, the seat of George Roch, esq. Still farther on ther. are 2 mansions, formerly of con¬ siderable rank, Scoveston and Honey- borough, now transmuted into farm hous¬ es. The former belonging to the Mor- daunts, who are supposed to have emi¬ grated. The latter was possessed by the Batemans. To the 1. where the road takes a sudden turn to the s-w., pass Williamston, where a family named Bowen once flour¬ ished. It is now the residence and pro¬ perty of the rev. dr. John Philipps. Leaving the church of Burton on the r. and Llanstudivell to the 1. reach Pembroke Ferry, at high water about lm. over; it is held under the crown by sir Hugh Owen, is well tended and always safe. From the opposite side the distance to Pembroke is 2m. through a rich country, with the fine accompaniments of wood and water. The road after crossing some high ground, descends to Coskerston Pill or estuary. Upon the other side is pleasantly situated Llaniun, a seat of John Meyrick, esq. now unroofed and falling to decay. Bush is his principal residence : it is a mansion charmingly situated in a grove, that has risen by artificial shelter, thick planting, and judicious thinning, in defiance of a s-w. aspect, to be highly ornamental. It is placed at the head of an enviable ter¬ ritory, including nearly the whole of the peninsula betw een the estuary of Pem¬ broke and the main haven, once the pro¬ perty of John de Paterchurch, and after him the Adamses. The grounds com¬ mand a slope of fine verdure, whence you may look down on the town and castle, catching here and there partial views of the river. Hence descend to the capital of the county, appearing advantageously in profile. From Haverfordwest mr. Fenton made an Excursion, following the course o mountains back. Crossing the W. Cleddau take the road through Prendergast, a vil¬ lage consisting of one long street, or 2 rows of houses, through which the great road to the n. lies ; one part branches to Cardigan the other to Fishguard. Taking the 1. or Fishguard branch, about lm. beyond it’s commencement pass Witliy- bush, the seat of John Phelps, esq. contain¬ ing extensive plantations of firs. A little further on to the r. occurs Poyston, a respectable mansion belonging to general Picton. To the I. in a little hollow, the very inconsiderable relic of Flether- kill, in the 17th century the property of the Haywards; the heiress of this estate married sir Watkin Lewis, who now en¬ joys it. The principal farm on this de¬ mesne is Rudbaxton, which is one of the largest tenements in the county. The Church is a rectory in the crown. Coarse human figures coarsely painted upon the stucco on the wall commemorate some of the Haywards. In the chancel is a monu¬ ment t dr. Pritchard. Opposite to the entrance into the church yard is a large mount, probably sepulchral or the site of a castelet. Proceed towards Trefgarn, (the town of the rock) through a long reach of wood above the Cleddau, here contracted by the opposite hills of the Trefgarns. Little Trefgarn, asingle man¬ sion-house upon the top of the hill, on the e. side of the vale, is held under lease, from the precentor of St. David’s, by John Edwards, esq. His ancestor made it his residence, and his descendents for 2 cen¬ turies continued to inhabit it. The pre¬ sent proprietor, however, left it for Sealy- ham, the seat of his lady, and Little Tref¬ garn has dwindled into a farm-houte. The bishop of St. David’s claims the game of it’s forest to supply the luxury of his table, giving the precentor in lieu of it 20 marks. Great Trefgarn lies at the back of the wood. The village is on the w. side of the river, containing a few houses, and a church, which is a rectory of small value. In this little parish, upon ahighiridge of waste ground, where the Plumstone mountain terminates, stand the Trefgarnrochs, having the appearance of ruined towers, forming striking objects to a considerable distance. Where the new road terminates, a pass was cut through a projection of the rocky precipice which 593 HAVERFORDWEST. 594 overhangs this river. Rasp, the mineralo¬ gist, when here, collected some fine speci¬ mens of porphyry and jasper. A little beyond is the village of Ford, where there is a small chapel, founded in 1627, by Margaret Symmons of Martel, for the con¬ venience of her tenants. From Ford take the road to the 1 . to examine a field where it is said has stood a roman villa. In 1806 a labourer found a great number of roman bricks, and stones which had been in con¬ tact with fire. Digging deeper he came to a pitof an oblong square, lined on each side with stone and mortar, about 8 feet long and 6 high, with flues. This pit lies at the distance of 100 yards from an old encampment. In the intervening space several pieces of walls have been met with in digging for stone. To the w: of those remains upon an uninclosed spot sloping towards the river, and facing the n, are the remains of a small earth work, nearly a square, with the angles rounded, marked by a single vallum. Return to the village and cross the river, pursuing the road, whichon looking back, keeps the same bearing as that you had left upon the opposite side of the river, (which shews it¬ self a little to the s. of the field where the roman works had been discovered) till you reach the supposed roman station of the Ad Vicessimum of Richard of Cirences¬ ter, lying about lm. to the n-h. of the church of Ambleston. It’s shape is a square agger with rounded angles and the appearance of brick and cement is evident upon it’s surface. The present mountain road passes through this station, and a lit¬ tle farther on a farm is called Streelland. The spot is called Castle Flemish, in the same manner that the more northerly con¬ verging road is called Via Flandrica (flem¬ ish way) from that people who galled and annoyed the welsh. It has been observed that the unvarying line of roman roads, from St. David’s to Caermarthen has been pursued frequently and found nearer than that through Haverfordwest. Turning n. cross the Sealy to Little Newcastle, a poor village, consisting of a few straggling houses, a church, and a large mount or tomen in the centre of the place, which might have supported something like a defence, and have borne the name of New¬ castle, to distinguish it from an older work a little above the village. Here was born the notorious pirate BarthoVemew Roberts, who left England in 1719, on board the Princess, a guineaman, which was captured at Anamaboe, while taking in slaves, by Howel Davies, the pirate, and his countryman. Fie was killed by a grape shot Feb. 10. 1721, in an action with the Swallow man of war. The ship he com¬ manded carried 40 guns and 157 men. Above this village, at a farm called Smur- ton, or Summertown, there is upon the summit of a high hill, a large circular en¬ campment, with a very lofty outward ag¬ ger, enclosing a smaller area. The di¬ ameter of the outward circle was 402 feet, of the inner 307. Repassing the Sealy below Little New Castle, and turning to the r. is a field covered with detached fragments of broken rock, called Cam Twrne or Cam Trefynau, (the rock of the boundaries) noted for being the separating point where the hundreds of Dewisland, Cemaes, and Daugleddau meet. A Crom¬ lech stood here, now thrown down, larger than that at Pentre Evan, for it measured I 65 feet by 13j, and from 4 to 5 feet 5 inches thick. This stood 111 a circle of up¬ right stones, some of which are standing. Hence the road leads leads to the village of St. Dogwell’ sor Llanty Dewi, a vicarage in the presentation of St. Davids. The Church consists of a nave, chancel, and south aisle, separated by low saxon arches, upon clumsy round pillars with plain capi¬ tals. It contains a plain stone canopy which might have once covered an effigy; upon the floor a gravestone with a well- sculptured cross fleury; and upon the s. wall a handsome marble monument to the family of Tucker, ofSealyham. an elegant mansion and beautiful grounds, finely wooded, occupying the slope of the op¬ posite hill and the hanks of the Sealy. On entering the village of St. Dogwell’s, mr. Fenton appears much struck with the singular appearance of a mass of rock at the end of the range of wood to the e. of the house of Sealyham on the opposite side, much resembling the truncated ruins of an old castle, and having crossed the river he turned to the r. to examine it, where he found a circular entrenchment, involving those rocks, called Castell Con¬ ing, seeming a mo 9 t important link of that chain of posts which extends the whole length of the n. boundary of this river. In the ledge of this broken mass of rocks, a considerable way from the ground was 595 HAVERFORDWEST. 596 a maen sigyl or rocking stone, of about 3 tons weight. Passing the mansion of Sealyham, follow the ridge of the hill at the back of the woods which shelter it, and reach Wolf’s Castle, a large tomen is close to it, placed so as to command the mouth of the Sealy at it’s junction with the Cleddau, and the ford over it, called Gib- brick’s Ford. Fall in with the main road, and pursue it to Lettardston, from the name of it’s ancient proprietor Lettard, who gave the advowson of the church, with the chapel of Llanvair annexed, to the commandery of Slebech. The image in the chancel wall is probably intended to represent Lettard, for according to Gough no effigies were permitted to oc¬ cupy the chancel but those of the founder or principal benefactor. Upon an open common skirting the road,exactly opposite to the village, there are two tumuli, and one larger just within an enclosure to the edge of it to the r. There is a large up¬ right stone at the s e. extremity of the common, which gives the name of Long, stone to the adjoining farm. While spend¬ ing a day or two with major Harris of Heathjield Lodge, mr. Fenton explored those tumuli, with a design to open them. The first that was reduced consisted of raby clay brought from the lower part of the common, but in which nothing was found. His forces were next directed to the largest tumulus within the field. The first adit, was made in the centre, very spacious, and followed for some time wilh great spirit, but without success. One of the workmen, however, espied the top of a stone above the soil much nearer the base. The operations were then shifted to near this spot. After digging a little another stone appeared. When these were removed, bones and much charcoal were found, but nothing more. De¬ scend to the Cyllell or Knife, just above the place where it is lost in the Cleddau, and turning to the r enter the vale of Llantinan, a mansion, once embosomed in majestic woods, once second to none jn hospitality, popularity, and influence, but now denuded and deserted. The sur¬ vivors of the house are John Symmons, tsq.of Paddington house, and his brother dr. Symmons. Pursuing the valley to it’s extremity, arrive at Trccoon, a mansion of the Vaughans. On the extinction of the name it fell to a sister’s son, Joseph Foster Barham, esq. m. p. for Stockbridge, Hampshire. In point of situation this spot possesses almost every ingredient of fine scenery. It is distant from Fishguard 3m. Emerge from this lovely retreat, and as¬ cend the mountain above it, falling into the tract of the roman road from Loven- tium on the banks of the Teifi, to Menapia. Pass the farm of Redwall, or Vagwrgoch, part of an extensive mountain property belonging to the house of Llanrithan. Af¬ ter passing the gate which bounds the farm of Vagwrgoch, a little to the n-e. of the road, leading from Fishguard to the New Inn, at a short distance from the latter place, still exists the site ofabritish village. The plain upon which it stood is nearly at the base of the mountain Moel Eryr, but is not seen from the road, a rampart of stones extending aconsiderable way, intercepting it. The vestiges are indeed faint but distinct enough to trace the site of houses, and streets. A little to the n-e. a tumulus seems to have had an incision made into it. The New Inn proves a convenience in passing the long mountainous stage from Haverfordwest to Cardigan, and where some refresh¬ ment is necessary to enable either man or horse to wind up the painful ascent of Bwlch Gwynt. The road which mr. Fen¬ ton pursued led to the Syvynvy, the largest tributary stream which the e. Cleddau receives. It is crossed by a ford. One mile further is Manclochog, a large vil¬ lage. The parish church was rebuilt about 1807, at the charge of Barrington Prycc, esq. who then lived at a hunting seat hard by, called Temple Druid. This manor was once the property of De la Roch or De Rupe; now of lord Milford and mr. Le Hunt. There is a great num¬ ber of Fairs here. Mr. Fenton attend¬ ed the opening of a tumulus, upon the very summit of the peak above Cwm Cerwyn or Cwm Carw. In the autumn of 1806, mr. Fenton and the pioneers having reach¬ ed the top by sun-rise, they fell to work, and found under the outward green-sward a carnedd of largish stones. They re¬ moved those in the centre and came to a coarse stone which covered a circular cist regularly lined round the sides with flags, and another flag at bottom upon which an urn was placed with it’s mouth downwards. See Fenton’s Tour, p. 350, with a figure. The urn contained a large 597 HAVERFORDWEST. 598 quantity of charcoal ashes and small small house by the road s ide, reach Wood- pieces of bone, not perfectly calcined. A little below the highest point of the mountain, upon a gentle slope open to the s. evident traces of the Llys, or palace of some ancient chieftain, similar to Llys Bradwen (see 249 of this work) consisting of an area of large foundation, divided in two. Upon the s. side lay two stones like gate posts, now overturned. Round this place are several small excavations, where, within call may have lodged the vassals. After passing lm. come to Temple Druid, so called from a large crom¬ lech near the house. This place has been removed from one proprietor to another as often perhaps as that of Shenstone’s creation of the Leasowes. To it’s first fashionable proprietor mr. Pryce, succeed¬ ed another Nimrod; the next a navy- officer, unaccustomed to green fields, was a fish out of water ; and lastly a gen¬ tleman returned with some of the riches of India. Turn to the r. to Moat, a straggling village, where remains, at a little distance below, the shell of an old house, inhabited by the Scourfields from the time of Edward 1. It’s admirable situation was deserted by the present mr. Scourfield, for Robeston, 6m. below Haverfordwest. Descend a steep woody hill, leaving on the r. Farthing’s Hook, a pleasing situation, once the family seat of the Vaughans, before their removal by marriage of Trecoon. Crossing the river Syvynvey from this charmingly se¬ questered vale, ascend to Henry’s Moat or Castell Henry. Here is a flat-headed tumuli with a ditch round it, and a parish church. Cross over a small brook by Ryrnach’s Well, a redundant spring close to the ruins of an old chapel, with an up¬ right rude stone marked with a rude cross. But the principal fountain dedicated to St. Byrnach, and referred to by Giraldus, lies above that range of rocks called Car- nau. Meibion Owen, on the side of the mountain by the highway, surrounded by a courtilage of stone wall, called Buarth- byrnach, the wall being 5 or 6 feet thick. A little to the 1. of the spring and ruins, at the foot of a heathy unenclosed tract npon the edge of the hill above a wild mountain stream, there is a considerable druid circle, with most of the stones in their original situation. Fall into the Haverfordwest road, pass Poll Tax Inn, a stock, which once named a manor posses¬ sed by Huko Hy wel, a man of great pow¬ er. It descended to sir John Perrott. This place contained a chapel of ease to Ambleston parish, which has long since been totally down. A methodist meet¬ ing-house has been erected in it’s place. Digress a little from the main road to ex- 'amine an old earth work encampment called the Rath. It occupies the summit of a conical hill. It is single ditched and nearly circular. The agger is so high that from the area within, which is of considerable extent, you cannot see any thing without but the sky. Hence to Haverfordwest. An Excursion of 5 miles leads the tourist to Picton Castle, the noble seat of lord Milford, whose extensive domains include a great part of the surrounding country. This may be considered one of the most antique residences in the king¬ dom, having been built by William de Picton, a norman knight, in the reign of William Rufus. On the extinction of his line, it descended to the Wogans, then to the Dones, and afterwards to the Philipses of Kylsant. During the civil wars, sir Richard Philips made a long and vigorous defence in it for king Charles. It is one of the very few castles which escaped the dilapidations of Cromwell, and is remark¬ able for having always been inhabited; yet the alterations and additions of suc¬ cessive occupiers have not deprived it of it’s embattled figure. The extensive and delightful plantations of this seat unite with those of Slebatch a handsome house built by the late mr. Barlow, and now in the possession of mr. Philips. [See 347 to 349.] Having advanced 2 or 3 miles on the direct road to Cardigan, Haverfordwest appears as if it’s houses were piled one upon the other; accompanied by a fine river covered with vessels. At some distance, w. the lofty tower of Roche castle was conspicuous ; and partly in the same direction, the Trogan rock rising from verdure in abrupt crags, so as to be mis¬ taken for tremendous ruins. Turning to the e. within a short distance appears an ancient encampment called St. Leonard’s Rathe, crowning a bold eminence; this work is circular, and, from the height of it’s vallum and depth of it’s ditch, may be 600 509 HAVERFORDWEST. HAWARDEN. attributed to the Saxons. Advancing from this spot, the beauties of the coun¬ try disappear, and no objects of interest occur. The unadorned views became compressed into narrow limits, and, at length are shut up in mountainous hol¬ lows-. In this dreary track stands a soli¬ tary house called New Inn, half way be¬ tween Haverfordwest and Caerdigan. On the road to St. David’s occurs, at the distance of about 6 miles, the elevated ruin of Roche castle. Beyond, the road passes near the border of St. Bride’s dan¬ gerous bay, and crosses the romantic creek and little harbour, of Solvach on the left, through a wild dreary country. The following distances are marked in Cary’s ltiu. To Trecoyd, 4m. Newgill Sands, 4|m Solvach, 3Jm. St. Davids, 3£m. The country on the road to Milford- Haven, is flat beyond Merlin’s Bridge, which crosses a branch of the Cleddy, but, on the whole, pleasing, distant |m. On the 1. is the road to Pembroke, 8 miles. On the r. is the old road to Mil¬ ford, the same distance There are a number of gentlemen’s seats in the neigh¬ bourhood, but the scenery abounds so lit¬ tle with what is uncommon that their names may suffice. Cinnamon Grove, capt. Roach, and Bolton Hill, dr. Jones, are agreeable residences. On the r. En- iskel, — Wright, esq. About a mile be¬ yond Tiers Cross is Robeston Hall, H. Scourfield, esq.; on leaving which you catch some fine water views, about Har- brandstone, D. Hughes, esq. Before you reach Pyle or Hvbberston Priory, which is not far from the water side. A part of the principal gate-house is all that re¬ mains. Halcin is separated from Milford by one of those creeks which run up the country out of the haven. The packets from Ireland sail from this place. From Haverfordwest mr. Skrine made an excursion merely to Hubberslon, a fishing town on Milfordhaven After his return proceeding on the way to St. David’s, he passed by the ruins of Roche castle, over a dreary country. Scarcely a single tree decorated this wild extremity of the Pembrokeshire coast; the habita¬ tions of man were also mean and thinly scattered. On approaching the city of St. David’s, it bore the aspect of an insig¬ nificant village. To Cardigan, 26 miles, Barber. — St. David’s, 15| miles, Earbetj Evans; Wyndham’s 1st tour. — Milford, Smiles, Malkin. — Narberth, 104 miles, Wyndham’s 2d tour. — Pembroke, 9 miles. — Carew Castle, down the river, Fenton. * ^ ■rJ’ * * /\/ r-j r s yNTyx/ ry / / r From Chester, 7§ miles, Bingley; Warner; Gil- pin. -Northop, 6 miles, Wyndham. -Euloe-castle, 2 miles, Pennant. HAWARDEN, in the cwmwd of Merffordd, cantref of Uwch Nant, (now called the hundred of Mold) in the coun¬ ty of Flint, is a thriving market town, situated near a small river which runs into the Chester channel. This place is a rec¬ tory valued in the King’s books at 661. 6s. 5gd. patron sir Stephen Richard Glynn, bart. The resident population of this parish, in 1801, was 4071. There is a post office here, and the mail-coach passes through daily to Holyhead. The Market is on Saturday. The fairs are held on the last Mondays in April and June. Here is unendowed Free Grammar School, found¬ ed in 1606, for the children of the parish. Petty Sessions are held monthly. It gives the title of Viscount to the family of Maude. This parish contains about 13,000 acres of land, of which the town¬ ship of Sealand, partly recovered from the sea, and consisting of 4000 acres was in¬ closed in 1732; Saltney township, 2000 acres, inclosed in 1778; the Warren Mountain, about 600 acres, was inclosed in 1798; the rest are in cultivation. The houses here are respectable, and the forges, foundaries, &c. well built. This parish receives 200Z. per annum from the river Dee company, for 800 acres of land enclosed on the n. side of the river, for the use of the navigators. Tho’ the name of this parish is always written Hawarden, it is constantly pronounced Harden. Har¬ den is supposed to be an english word, but probably of welsh derivation, from garth, a hill, and dinas a fortress, Ardd- din, Ardin, a fortified mount or hill. In most of the townships of Hawarden are considerable coal-mines, from which Chester and the adjacent country are chief¬ ly supplied. In the townships of Pentre Hobyn and Ewloe, there is an extensive mine of very fine fire-clay, from which great quantities of bricks, bearers, floor- 601 II AW ARDEN. 602 ing, malt and ridge tiles, and coarse earthen ware are made. In the township of Saltney is a large manufacture of glauber’s salts, sal ammoniac, ivory black, &c. There is a railway down to the river Dee for .the conveyance of produce. The inhabitants of Hawarden have been for ages called “ Harden Jews,” which may be accounted for from the following le gendary account. In the year 946, during the reign of Cynan ap Elis ap Anarawd, king of Gwynedd North, there was a Christian temple at Hardin and a rood loft in which was placed an image of the Vir¬ gin Mary, with a very large cross, which was in the hands of the image, called holy rood. During a hot and dry summer the inhabitants prayed much and ardently for rain, without effect. Among the rest ladyTrowst, wife of Sytsyllt governor of Hardin castle went also to pray. During this exercise the Holy Rood fell upon her head and killed her. A great tumult en¬ sued in consequence, and it was concluded to try the said virgin for the murder, when the jury found her guilty not only of wil¬ ful murder but inattention in not answer¬ ing the numerous petitioners. The sen¬ tence was hanging, but Span of Mancot, who was one of the jury, opposed this act, saying it was best to drown, since it was rain that they prayed for; this was fiercely opposed by Corbin of the gate, who advised that she be laid on the sands near the river. This being done the tide carried the lady gently upon it’s soft bo¬ som, and placed her near the walls of Caer- leon (now Chester) where she was found next day, drowned and dead. Here the inhabitants of Caer Leon buried her, and erected a monument with this inscription. The jews their god did crucify, the Hardners theirs did drown; because their wants she’d not supply ; and lies under this cold stone. On this occasion the river, which had be¬ fore been called Usk was changed to Rood Die or Rood Dee. This place originated in the erection of the castle, which stands at the e. end of the town, commanding a fine and extensive prospect towards the river Dee, and the county of Chester. At an early period this town had two names ; one in welsh Pennard halawg, meaning the head of the Salt Marsh, it being n. of that extensive flat called Saltney Marsh; or Pen Garth y Lac, the top of the hill. above tire swamps. An excellent road was formerly made, and a canal ran par¬ allel with it, for the conveyance of articles to the Dee, and yet the one is neglected, and the other disused. In the saxon Dom-book this place is called Haordine. It probably was an early british-post of the Cornavii who had to defend this part of the country against the invading romans. Trumans's-Hill, w. of the Church by the road side, a mount upon which is a cavity like a small camp, and other fortified heights in the vicinity, formed after the brilish manner, seem to confirm this con¬ jecture. Hawarden appears to have been a strong hold of the saxons, for on the in¬ vasion of William it was found in posses¬ sion of Edwin sovereign of Deira. The Castle was probably built soon after the conquest, for it was in possession of Roger Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who came with the conquer¬ or. The Monthault family, held it subor¬ dinate^ as stewards in the palatinate of Chester. On the. supression of a rebel¬ lion which had been conducted by the earl of Leicester, Hawarden reverted to the crown. Another insurrection headed by David, a welsh chieftain, who in 1281 took the castle by a coup de main, diverted these possessions into another course. After the death of Llewelyn and the sub¬ jection of Wales to english jurisdiction, David, who had accepted a seat among the peers, was the first person who suf¬ fered as a traitor in the savage way at pre¬ sent in use. He was hung, his bowels burnt, and his body quartered. Hawarden next appears in the family of Montalt, descended to the Stanleys, earls of Derby, and on the demise of James, who, at the battleof Worcester, in 1651, was behead¬ ed by the insurgents, it was purchased under the sequestration act by mr. ser- jeant Glynnc. During the civil wars this castle was seized by the anti-royalists, and garrisoned with parliamentarian forc¬ es. In 1643 a detachment from Ireland, dispatched by the duke of Ormond, under the command of lieut. col. Marrow,retook it. The royalists seem to have been in possession of the castle subsequent to the surrender of Chester. On Mar. 17, 1645, after sustaining a close siegeof four weeks it was given up by sir Wm. Neal to gen. Mytton. In December the parliament ordered it to be dismantled. The present COS HAWARDEN. 604 remains of the castle consist of little more than fragments of the walls and keep, late- lyenclosed from common obtrusion, and accessible only by permission of the gar¬ dened. Formerly a considerable portion of this ruin was obscured by rubbish, sir John Glynne, grandfather of the pres¬ ent sir Stephen, caused the rubbish to be removed, and the foundations laid open. The structure seems to have been pentag¬ onal, with a strong square entrance gate¬ way, on it’s widest side ; and on another a kind of barbican. At one angle was placed the keep, or citadel, being a cir¬ cular tower, nearly entire, which forms a grand object, towering above the woods. The other parts consist of fragments of walls and various buildings. Those which were discovered by clearing away the rubbish present a flight of steps at the foot of which was a door, and a drawbridge which crossed a long deep chasm, neatly faced with free stone, to another door leading to 2 or 3 small rooms, probably places of confinement. The castle was surrounded by a broad and deep fossa, now filled with timber trees. The Church is a plain good building, no way remarkable for it’s architecture or sculp¬ ture. The rector has a peculiar exempt¬ ed jurisdiction; having the power to grant matrimonial licences, register wills, give probates, and perform all acts of a suffragan, except ordination, and confirma¬ tion. For the exercise of these functions he holds a kind of consistorial court; where, attended by his procters, he pre¬ sides as judge. The annual revenues of this living are calculated at full three thousand pounds! Hawarden Park, is the seat of sir Stephen Glynne, bart. only son of the late sir Stephen, who died soon after his mar¬ riage. The house was a handsome modern'structure, erected in 1752 by sir John Glynne, but in 18C9, it was newly cased with freestone, forming a grand eastellated structure, with towers, tur¬ rets, &c. in the gothic style of the 13th century. Numerous paintings decorate the different apartments; the collection consists chiefly of portraits. Four pic¬ tures came from sir Kenelm Digby’s col¬ lection ; they represent, in half lengths the evangelists; and are considered the production of Valentine, who copied the style of Caravaggio. Among the family portraits are two of that accommodating political lawyer sir John Glynne, who supported high stations both during the time of Charles 1 , the interregnum, and after the restoration. In proceeding to Mold, the Chester channel is on the right, and in front the mountains of Flintshire. At the distance of 3 miles is Buckley Hill, upon which are conducted very extensive potteries. De¬ scending the north-western side, the pros¬ pect of the vale is richly embellished with woods, villages, and elegant man¬ sions. To Holywell, 1 m. on the r. is Aston- hall, C. Dundas, esq.; n. of this place are coal-works ; a little further is the village of Ewloe, lm. 3f. and Shotten-lane-eml; on the 1. Ewloe-green, and on the r. near Pentre-briJge, l^m. in a low situation are the remains of Ewloe Castle, on the r. is IVeppra-hall, E. Jones, esq. Pass Pen- tremoch on the 1. with Upper Sychden, mrs. Lloyd ; Middle Sychden, sir W. Wynne; and Lower Sychden, rev. John Conway Potter. Northop 2301. On the r. is Upper Cornice, Middle Cornice, and Lower Cornice, being genteel residences; near the sea is Kelsterston, John Edwards, esq., near which at the top of Y Fron, James Okell, esq. At the distance of lm. is a road on the r. to Sheiviog and Caerwys; leaving Berthddau-park on the 1. pass Cyglision on the r. to Halkin. Inn, the Ra¬ ven, 2m. 7f. Below Halkin on the r. is the residence of col. Hughes; on the 1. Halkin-hall, earl Grosvenor; and jm, be¬ yond is the seat of Robert Hughes, esq. Pentre-Halkin, with it’s hall on the l. on the r. is Helygenywern. On the r. to Flint, 3m. One mile beyond, on the 1. is Pen y Pylte, H. Humphries, esq. ; and |m. further on the 1. is Pistyll, Wm. Boardman, esq. Holywell, 25 m. The narrow and depressed defile called Coed Euloe is memorable for the signal de¬ feat led on by Henry 2, against the Welsh in 1156. Henry had collected a very great army from all parts of England for the pur¬ pose of subduing N. Wales. He was prin¬ cipally urged to this undertaking by Cad- walador, whom Owen Gwynedd deprived of his estate, and banished, and Madocap Meredith, price of Powis, who was com¬ pelled to do homage to the prince of N. Wales. With these coadjutors Henry 2, led his army to W. Chester, and encamped upon 605 HAWARDEN. IIAWKESTONE. 606 Saltney Marsh. Owen during this co-oper¬ ation, was vigilant in all possible prepara¬ tions to confront the enemy. He march¬ ed his army to the frontiers of England and encamped at Basingwerk. Henry, by way of rebuff, detached some of his best troops from the main body, commanded by several earls, and sent them towards prince Owen’s camp, but in passing through this defile, David and Conon, the sons of Owen, bore upon them and slaugh¬ tered most of them. Henry then decamp¬ ed from Saltney, and ranked his troops along the sea coast intending to get be¬ tween Owen and his country. But the prince perceiving this, retired to a place now called Cil Owen (Owen’s retreat) Henry then came to Rhuddlan. In this expedition the king was in great danger in passing through a strait at Counsylth near Flint, for the Welsh pressed on so violently that even the standard of Eng¬ land was left behind by it’s bearer Henry de Essex. Eustace Fitz John, and Ro¬ bert Curcie, two valiant knights, were slain, with many others of the nobility and gentry, fell in this action. Giraldus says that a young welsh gentleman, who was wounded in this battle, was pre¬ served 8 days from becoming a prey to voracious fowls, wolves, and other wild animals, under the guardianship of his faithful dog, which constantly attended the carcass. The monk compares this instance of fidelity to the inseparable friendship between Nisus and Euryalus ; Polynices and Tydeus; Pyladus and Or¬ estes. In a copse by Euloe Castle, grows Eu- onymus europaeus; by the road side to Chester, the Atropa belladonna. To Euloe Castle, 2 miles, Bingley. — Mold, 6 miles, Warner; Gilpin. — Northop, 4§ miles. — Chester, 6 miles, Wyndham ; Pennant. — Flint 7 ^ miles. New Inn bridge; [a little beyond are the ruins of EULOE CASTLE, in a copse, about ^ of a mile on the right;] 1 -J Pen- tre bridge ; lj Northop; 3 Flint. From Shrewsbury, 10 miles, Skrine. HAWKESTONE is the delightful seat of sir John Hill, bart. 9m. s. of Whit¬ church, Shropshire, long the residence of the ancient and respectable family of the Hills ; a spot much celebrated for an ex¬ traordinary portion of natural beauty, ad¬ ded to and much improved by the power of opulence and the hands of taste. It’s brilliancy is indeed superabundant and the marks of the chissel are often seen. Tis an elysium formed out of a sandy waste with so much taste that it’s features can scarcely receive justice from the most vivid description. The elegance of the Mansion-House, is exceeded by few ; the hospitality of the owner by none. It is an elegant modern edifice situated upon a beautiful inclination upon the n. side of a romantic hill. The 2 wings and many im¬ provements were added by sir Rowland Hill, bart. father of the present posses¬ sor. To the w. is a fine portico, the col¬ umns are of the composite order, lofty and graceful. The saloon, chapel and library are particularly worthy of examina¬ tion. In the ceiling of the chapel is an emblematic painting representing Truth appealing to Time for bringing her to light and falsehood flying away. The sa¬ loon contains among other paintings the siege of Namur, with king William, elector of Bavaria, duke of Marlborough, count Cohorn, and the right honourable Richard Hill, great uncle to the present sir John Hill, all taken from the life. An easy ascent through the selvage of a wilderness of lofty trees leads to the Summer-House, a neat octagonal structure of freestone, decorated within with paintings in fresco, representing the 4 seasons. From the windows appears a grand piece of water with verdant meadows and a distant view of the Broxton Hills and Delamere Forest. A new farm-house, among the trees by the water side bears the representation of an abbey or priory, till the emblems of a farm house appear to set the observer right and betray the intended deception. Under the summer-house is a spacious cold bath. A beautiful lawn leads hence to the edge of a deep valley called the Gulf, along which is an ascending walk upon the side of a rock agreeably clothed with shrubs and trees, admitting at intervals a view of distant water. Reach a stupendous cliff in the rock, along the bottom of which the road gradu¬ ally ascends to a passage, whence the light is excluded for about 100 yards. This terminates in the Grotto, which is a vast cave dug in the solid rock, and is superior to every thing of this kind in the 607 HAWKESTONE. 608 kingdom. Pillars of stone are left as sup- some of the wild landscapes in the Grisons porters, and the sides are set with costly is striking. The Terrace is a most shells, petrefactions, and fossils. The agreeable walk, covered with the finest light is admitted through small windows verdure and lined on each side with va- of painted glass. A colonade of rude rious sorts of lorest trees, in which are pillars leads through a w. door to the openings to distant scenery. Upon a spot verge of an Awful Precipice, whence are near the highest part of the terrace is a seen the towering oaks, over-hung with grand column or Obelisk, built of white huge rocks tinged with copper. Descend- freestone, in height about 112 feet. A ing by a flight of steps, the path winds staircase within leads to an open gallery round this detached mass of freestone, af- round it’s capital, whence is a magnificent fording at every point new objects of ad- prospect extending in a clear day to a miration. Among the enormous shelves range which comprises 12 or 13 counties, which overhang this road there is a place The summit is crowned with a statute of cut through the rock with 2 seats one op- sir Rowland Hill, knt. lord mayor of Lon- posite the other called the Vis a Vis. don, in the 2d year of Edward 6, 1349 and Many eminent persons have expressed 1550. An inscription upon the pedestal their admiration of these scenes. General expresses that the pillar was erected by Paoli, who visited Hawkestone, declared sir Richard Hill, from motives of respect that in all his travels he had seen no pros- to the memory of that great and good man. pect which had afforded him so much de- It contains an eulogiac sketch of his life, light. This spot has since been dis- Upon a high projection to the s-w. side tinguished by the name of Paoli’s Point, of the terracestands the Tower, which com- Leaving the grotto hill proceed along rug- mar.ds a view of the town of Shrewsbury, ged and grotesque cliffs to a natural cave the Wrekin and Stretton hills. To the named The Retreat. This contains an au- w. appear the welsh hills; particularly tomaton in the figure of a Hermit sitting the Breidden, Cefn y Castell, and Moely before a table, upon which are a scull, Golfa About lm. from the tower is a an hourglass, a book, and pair of spectacles, beautiful and romantic wood called Bury The guide contrives to make this machine Walls. Here are the remains of a roman rise, lift his hand, and appear to answer Camp, encompassing about 20 acres of questions. The spectator is next con- high ground, bounded by an inaccessible ducted to a singular crag of a pyramidic rock on 3 sides, and defended on the form, finely clad with ivy and trees, called other by a triple entrenchment. A re- th e Fox’s Knob, from the circumstance of tired walk leads hence to the Tower Glen, a fox being unkennelled there, which bounded by a range of grotesque rocks, leapt, into the valley beneath. The fall oc- interspersed with large trees and under- casioned his death, as well as that of some wood. At the end of this sequestered of the dogs which followed him. There dingle there is a seat, whence opens a is a sinuous perforation in the rock called charming expanse of lawn, hill, wood, St. Francis’s Cave, the entrance to which and water. In a rock within this glen is is under the fantastic roots of an old yew- an extraordinary cavern. Near it is an tree. After passing through some dis- Urn erected by sir Richard Hill, bart. in tance in total darkness, you emerge into 17S4, as a token of affection to the mem- the blaze of day, and are presented with ory of his ancestor Rowland Hill, esq. a prospect the most magnificent. A part of Hawkestone, who being a royalist hid the most romantic in the domain, is himself in this glen during the troubles of ascended to between two steep rugged the reign of Charles 1. He was discover- rocks of white free stone, at the entrance ed and imprisoned in the castle adjacent, of which is a finger post inscribed upon called lied Castle, now a heap of ruins, one side, “To a scene in Switzerland,” The site is remarkably strong and impos and on the other “ Au Pont Suisse.” The ing, being the summit of a lofty hill con- way leads over an alpine bridge thrown sisting chiefly of red rock, covered on across a yawning gulph. Descend to the every side with large trees and thick 1. into another deep and solemn glen or wood. The erection of this castle is by cleft, dividing 2 high and abrupt rocks. Dugdale and others, dated from a licence The resemblance between this scene and granted by Henry 3 to Henry de Aldithle, 609 HAWKESTONE. IIAY. 610 or Audley. [See Gough’s Camden, iii, 30.] One of the most curious parts of this hill is an excavation called the Giant’s Well. The circular walls which surround it are immensely thick. A passage is cut near this place through the solid rock, at the end of which is placed the figure of a lion, with some bones scattered upon the ground near him. In one of the vallies below the Red Castle is a low building of sticks and reeds, constructed from a print in capt. Cooke’s Voyages. The interior is fitted up in a corresponding style, and adorned with bows, arrows, horns of animals, idols, masks, caps of red feathers, shell necklaces and two canoes. This spot is called A Scene in Otaheite. Se¬ veral plants from that island grow at the door of the dwelling. There is a fine walk round the top of the valley. A magnificent Piece of Water, resembling a wide navigable river extends about 2m. in length. The terminations are con¬ cealed. Passing through a delightful plantation at the entrance to which are two large whale-bones, arrive at Nep¬ tune’s Whim. This whim or cottage is built in the style of the houses in North Holland, with a windmill upon the op¬ posite bank, painted exactly after the dutch fashion. The interior is ornament¬ ed with prints, &c. Behind this cottage, at the river head, is a fine colossal statue of Neptune, in hewn stone, holding an urn from which the water falls over broken pieces of rock. Nereids placed below are made to throw up the stream to a considerable height. In this district of these splendid grounds is a spot called Amphiirite’s Flower Garden, in the mid¬ dle of which, during summer, a curious tent is pitched, which was brought from Egypt by colonel (now general) Hill, nephew of the late sir Richafd, and son of sir John Hill. The following inscription appears over an entrance. “ This tent was brought by colonel Hill from Egypt to England. It originally belonged to the famous Murad Bey ; was taken at the bat¬ tle of the Pyramids, by the French ; and taken from the French when Grand Cairo surrendered to the English, 25 June, 1801 A description of this spot,which is embel¬ lished beyond comparison, would require far more than this outline, did our limits of portability allow it. An enlarged De¬ scription of this demesne may be had of 21 Wood and Watton, Shrewsbury, and at the Hawkestone-inn. It contains a second part describing the later improvements, which should have been incorporated in the body of the work, so as to have oc- cured in the progressive detail. The contiguous village of Weston stands plea¬ santly upon an eminence, with a neat little church. At the extremity of the village and upon the edge of the grounds stands Hawkstone Inn and Hotel, an elegant and spacious house, with bowling- green, ice. The accommodations here are of a superior kind, and attention and order are apparent. These grounds can¬ not be more than partially examined with¬ out the attendance of the gardener, whose expectations amount to gold. One of his labourers can however be had to open the locked wickets, gates, and doors, for 5s To Oswestry, through Wem, 22 miles, Skrine. From Crickhowel, 18 miles, Malkin ; hence to Builth on the western side of the Wye, 15 miles; back to Hay. -Radnor, 14 miles, Wyndham. -Builth, 15 miles, Skrine. ■-Brecon, 15 miles, Lipscomb. N HAY, in british, Tre Gelli, in the hun¬ dred of Talgarth, and county of Brecon, lies on the banks of the river Wye, on the borders of Herefordshire, from the norman french 'haier to enclose, and celli, a grove of young saplings. The town, according to mr. Jones, consists of one street, di¬ viding into a fork near the middle, to the e. towards Ilerefoidshire, and separated from that county by the river Dulas, (from Du and clas, the black sheltered water) which here falls into the Wye. The hous¬ es are placed upon the declivity of a hill, whichproducesa greatcrappearanceof con¬ sequence than the town really posseses. A lew only excepted, arc very indifferent habitations, and much scattered. It is a borough by prescription, but has no pri¬ vileges. Tlte lord of the manor appoints a bailiff annually, tho’ he is rarely changed, who receives the tolls. These tolls are certain and well known, but were former ly extorted arbitrarily. They are paid by the bailiff for the use of mrs. Harley, the lady of the manor who holds a court-leet here annually, and is entitled also to hold 611 a court baron, tho’ that is now seldom called for, as the jurisdiction is very con¬ fined. The soil round the town is ex¬ tremely good, and in high cultivation. A manufactory for carding and spinning wool and converting it into flannel has been established ; it employs a consider¬ able number of hands. The Fairs are Monday before Easter, May 17, 2d Mon¬ day in June, Aug. 12, and Oct. 10, The Market is on Thursday, and is plentifully supplied with grain and provision of all kinds. The parish Church, dedicated to St John, called Eglwys Ifan, appears from the Notitia Cambro-Britannica, to have been in good repair in 1684, and then used as a school-house. This building partly fell down about the year 1700, and was never repaired, tho’ part of it has since been used as a school. The Church of St. Mary, at the w. end of the town, is now resorted to, separated by a deep din¬ gle, which probably was formerly a moat. It is a small building romantically situated upon an eminene, almost precipitous on the n-w, close to the river. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a tower at the w. end, containing one bell only. A point¬ ed arch forms the entrance, by an ascent of 3 steps. Under the communion-table is a stone inscribed to James Watkins of Tregoyd, gent, who died June 18, 1639, aged 75. On the s. side is a tombstone upon the graves of Thomas Gwyn, of Hay Castle, esq. Howel Gwyn, his son, and Elizabeth Gwyn, daughter of Thomas Gwyn. She founded an Alms-house at Hay for 6 poor people, and endowed it with an annual gift; she died May 12, 1702. The gallery was erected in 1723. A silver chalice is very ancient. The words our latie paris of the haia are engraved upon it. In the table of bene¬ factions, upon the wall, it appears that James Watkins of Tregoyd, gave the poor of Hay 13s. 4 d. annually, charged on a house then in possession of Josiah Lewis near the Bull-ring. Wm. Watkins, esq. of Pen yr wrlodd, gave also 10s. a year, charged upon Pen yr wrlodd. Why is not this table of benefactions repainted, since it is nearly obliterated ? and why are not these donations paid ? Is there no advocate for the poor in Hay? The charity of Mrs. Gwyn was a house without the Watergate as a habitation for six poor people, and a tenement called Pen y wern in Disserth, the rents to be appropriated annually to wards their maintenance, and also 100/. which was laid out in the purchase of a farm called Brynrhydd. Elizabeth Bevan, widow, gave 6/. for the use of the poor and Wm. Pennoyre, esq. gave 12/. to a schoolmaster, and 2/. for books, both an¬ nually. The churchyard is crowded with gravestones. Upon the ground is a stone effigy, supposed to represent a friar or a monk, very much defaced. Near the church are three old gravestones, inscribed Tho. Waters, and another Theophilus Hill, who died in 1675. The view from this yard is very rich and variegated. The rec- toral tythes are in the hands of mr. Hullet. The vicarage house became ruinous in the time of the civil war, and was never after¬ wards repaired. The site of it is now hard¬ ly known. The scenery around the bridge assists in impressing the idea of the supe¬ riority of that picturesque effect which arises from low bridges forming a princi¬ pal object ; and when compared with those of Rhaiadyr and Builth, the contrast will be striking. This bridge of 7 arches, met, in the year 1795 with a fate similar to that of Builth. Leland describes this place as follows. “ The Hay standeth hard upon Wy and yet sheweth the token of a right strong waulle, having in hit in gates and posterne. Ther is also a castel, the which sum time hath been right stately. Within the towne is but one poore paroche. In the suburbe hard by Wy is a paroch chirch meately fair. Ther is also in the suburbe a chapel wher on Sunday I heard messe, not far from the paroche chirch in the suburbe is a great rounde hille of yerth cast up by menne’s handes other for a wynd mille to stond upon or rather for sum fortress of bataille. The towne of the Hay yet hath a market, but the towne with¬ in the waulles is wonderfully decaied. The ruine is adscribed to Oen Glindour, one shewid'me in the towne the ruines of a gentleman’s place called Waulwine, be whose means prince Lluelin was sodenli taken at Builth castel and ther beheddid and his hedde sent to the kinge. Dulesse a prety river rising in the moun- tinnes about in myles from Hay cummeth even through the town and strait into Wy without the est gate of the towne. The tounne longgidto the duke of Bokingham, it perteineth now to the lord Stafford his sonne. Arture’s hille and some other of 613 HAY. 614 the-veri manifestly apcre to a man loking out of the west gate of Hay.” Some vestiges of a roman fortress are up¬ on the bank near the church. A part only of the more modern Castle stands upon an eminence in the town. A dwelling-house has been built out of the remains ; but a gothic gateway has been preserved, which frowns with venerable and baronial dignity upon the inhabitants of the town below. The manor of Hay was given by Bernard Newmarch to sir Philip Walwyn, who pro¬ bably built the castle. It is found afterwards in the possession of Maud de St. Valeri, to whom tradition attributes the building of the walls and the castle. It is now in the possession of mr. Wellington, a famiiy who settled here in trade during the 17th century, one of whom purchased it from the heiresses of the Gwyns. After the death of mrs. Gwyn in 1702, the castle was let out in different apartments, in one of them, for some time, lodged the once famous George Psalmanazer. The round hille noticed by Lelandis near the White Swan Inn, it was either a watch tower, or a small prison or keep. Inn. The White Swan. About 2 miles below the town are the remains of Clifford-Caslle, standing upon a considerable eminence upon the banks of the river Wye. Its walls are not high, nor its parts broken and irregular enough to form a striking feature in a picture, yet it merits notice from the inquisitive travel¬ ler. This fortress was erected by William Fitzosborn, first earl of Huntingdon. It was afterwards held by Ralph de Todeny, and again by Walter, the son of Richard Punt, or Ponce, whose surname was De Clifford, and from him the noble family of the Cliffords, earls of Cumberland, are originally descended. This manor, how¬ ever, did not long continue in the family, though the younger branches of it flourish¬ ed in other places. It appears that in the reign of Edward 1, John Giffard was in possession, having obtained it by marrying the heiress of Walter Giffard, grandson of Walter de Clifford, abovementioned. At this place was born the celebrated Rosa¬ mond, who was the daughter of the last- named Walter de Clifford. She was edu¬ cated at Godstow nunnery, the religious houses being then the only places of edu¬ cation for young ladies of rank and dis¬ tinction. Here she was first seen by Henry 2, who became violently enamour¬ ed, declared his passion, and triumphed over her honour. Master Hollinshead thus speaks of Henry the second’s incon¬ tinence and of his attachment to fair Rosa¬ mond. “ Not contented with his wife, he kept many concubines, but he delight¬ ed most in the companie of a pleasant damosell, whom he ’clepedthe rose of the world, the common people named her Rosamond, for hir passing beautie, pro- pernesse of person, and pleasant wit, with other amyable qualities, being verily a rare and peerelesse peece in those days. He made for hir an house at Woodstocke in Oxfordshire, like to a laberinth, that is to meane, wrought like a knot in a gar¬ den, called a maze, with such turnings and windings in and out, that no creature might find her nor come to her, except he were instructed by the king, or such as were secrete with him in that matter. But the common report of the people is, that the queene finally found her out by a silke thread, whiche the king had drawne forth of hir chamber with his foote, and dealte with her in such sharpe and cruell wise, that she lyved not long after. She was buried in the nunrie of Godstow beside Oxforde, with these verses upon hir tumbe.” Hicjaced in tumulo, Rosaniundi non Rosamund-a, non redolet sed olet, quse redolere solet.” There is a hamlet near the Hay on the borders of Herefordshire, called Cusop, which is scarcely known, but admirably picturesque. The Dulas ripples among the contiguous summits. The little inn at Clifford, displays the sign of the Castle, and is an excellent re¬ presentation. At this place mr. Lipscomb on his way to Kington, ford¬ ed the Wye, and when on the opposite shore he discovered a most remarkable echo. Passed a farm house and entered a dirty lane, which brought him to a vil¬ lage, where he obtained some directions as to the road. He intended to have re¬ posed at the house of a friend near the Brilley mountains and to proceed onward to Kington the next day. The prevailing hospitality which he had met with on his journey did not allow him to doubt as to his reception at LI-; when he ar¬ rived he felt the mortification of the sen¬ tence that the family was not at homc r Tne darkness of the night added to a total. 615 HA ignorance of the road were urgent motives to compassionate attention. The ungraci¬ ous intelligence was communicated through an unopened casement; a candle in the room served to shew the mistress of the house concealing herself under a table. In fine, no admittance could be gained. He retraced the lane back to the common road, lost himself in the different turnings, reached a dirty common; mistook the shade of a thick fog for the semblance of a hedge, made up to it and found himself upon the brink of a precipice, with a riv¬ er at it’s foot. He renewed his efforts to regain the road, but was bewildered by the different tracks. He had been told at a cottage that a public house was on the road, but he could not perceive one glimpse of light, nor any sound but the tinkling of a wether’s bell. He wandered over the dreary waste as accident direct¬ ed, surrounded by an impenetrable mist. His horse floundered into deep hollows, and sunk in miry ditches. At length his progress was completely stopped, for he became so enclosed by trees and shrubs that he could find no opening through which to escape. The screams of the night-owl added to the gloominess of his situation. In this solitude, therefore, he determined to pass the remainder of the night. At last the morning dawned, the mist dissipated, and he discovered an open¬ ing in the wood. He was hospitably re¬ ceived at a small farm-house not far dis¬ tant, the best of their provisions were set before him, his clothes dried, and his horse sheltered and fed. He was after¬ wards conducted into the Kington road. On a wide circuit to Euilth, noth¬ ing very striking occurs till you reach Aberllyvenni, the fall or confluence of the river Llyvenni, where the scene is un¬ commonly gay, luxuriant, and beautiful. The meadows by the river side, the trim lawn of Maeslough opposite, on a rising slope, fields, orchards, See. detain the feasted eye. Mr. Morgan, a woolstapler, has here a genteel house. The Llyvenni falls into the Wye at this place. A little further is the decent public house called the Three Cocks, where the river makes the largest horse-shoe bend in the whole extent of it’s course. Llangoed Castle, on the banks of the Wye, was purchased from sir Edward Williams, bart., by John Macnamara, esq., barrister at law. This Y. 616 place is capable and perhaps will be made one of the finest in Wales. It consists of 54,000 acres. Amid numerous natural beauties, there is a tremendously grand dingle, lying far from any thoroughfare, and therefore little known. While at Hay, mr. Skrine paid a visit at Clyro, to the rev. mr. Edwards, rector of this place, and archdeacon of Brecon. Of this gentleman, mr. Skrine speaks in the highest style of eulogium, and ac¬ knowledges the advantages which he has reaped from his experience, his society, and friendship, in the most pleasing, hon¬ ourable, and grateful manner. The vil¬ lage of Clyro is concealed beneath the Radnorshire range of hills, possessing no natural or acquired beauties by which it is distinguished. Returning to the Hay, mr. Skrine, in passing over the little brook close to the town, quitted the prin¬ cipality. In a rout on the eastern side of the Wye to New Radnor, Mr. Malkin visited the following places. Clyro, where on a head-stone in the church-yard appears the very great age of 219. The village of Llovies near the Wye. Glas- bury-bridge, was built by Wm. Edwards, and consisted of 5 arches, but was taken down by a flood. The present bridge is of wood resting upon stone piers, whence you see the grounds of Maeslough, Aber - llyn, and the Brecknockshire hills. Maes¬ lough looks best at a distance, seeming to affect the style of a village. It is the pro¬ perty of mr. Wilkins, m.p. for the county. This road is not adapted for carriages, but to horsemen and foot travellers is more interesting than the other side of the river. Those who wish to examine both sides may have frequent opportunities of cros¬ sing in stationary ferry-boats. Boughrood is beautifully embosomed in wood. It is worth while to pass here to the opposite side of the river, which exhibits one of the finest scenes upon the Wye. At this place the Calethwr enters the Wye from Brecknockshire, and the Machwy from Radnorshire, each directly opposite the other. Few scenes are more uncommon than the dingle of the Machtvy, but it can only be found by a guide. Mr. Macna- mara’s servant was mr. Malkin’s guide. The first effort is to climb a mossy hill, almost perpendicular. After having tra¬ versed the slippery ridge for some time* 618 617 HAY. it becomes necessary to descend, in order to command a striking point of view. The dingle is here terminated by a tre¬ mendous rock, on the top of which are the remnants of some ancient and rude structure, to which vulgar report attaches a monstrous tale. History is silent re¬ specting it. Mr. Malkin thought it ap¬ proached nearer to what may be denom¬ inated savage, than any thing he had ever seen of it’s kind. After having descended from the loftier sides of the dingle, and examined these terrific foundations, the bed of the river is approached with dif¬ ficulty by a second descent, and crossed in front of the black rock, by stepping up¬ on the more elevated stones. Here a narrow ledge upon the brink of a deeply- worn pool, conducts you, bending double under a mass of overhanging rock to a singular fallof the Machwy which projects from behind the castle. It’s position and circumstances are eminently grand. On returning by the northern bank of the riv¬ er, the sides of the dingle appear magnifi¬ cently lofty and abrupt but drearily bar¬ ren. The ascent is less difficult than on the southern side. Regaining the banks of the Wye, the next object is a pleasing spot called the Skreen, the family estate of mrs. Harris. Llandilo graban is a small chapelry, close by Llyn Llanbychllyn, the largest lake in Radnorshire, but smaller than Llyn syvaddon by one third. Aber- edwy Castle and village, appearing in a pretty valley on the right, much noticed in Cambrian annals, afford very attractive objects. This village derives it's name from it’s situation at the mouth of the Ed- wy, where that river falls into the Wye. The castle belonged to Llewellyn ap Gruffyth, the last refuge of the last inde¬ pendent prince of Wales. This spot pos¬ sesses a striking wildness. Alter hav¬ ing passed the bridge, just by the con¬ fluence of the 2 rivers, a path on the right leads up a hill, and to the top of a rock above the Edwy. Here is an uncom¬ mon romantic scene. Almost close by the foundations whence the general view may be taken, are the church and it’s yard. The view from the latter is ex¬ quisitely beautiful. The village is mean, but it’s situation is delightful. After winding down the deep descent of it’s little street, to the water’s edge opposite the mill, a favourable subject for the pen¬ cil is presented. This place gave birth to Thomas Jones, pupil of Wilson, and friend of Mortimer. He died on his family es¬ tate in May 1803. [See Malkin i, 445,— 450.] After passing a considerable way up this very interesting valley, at a bend of the river, the traveller, instead of pur¬ suing it’s circuitous course, mounts the hill before him, which leads to the village Cregrina, where there is nothing remark¬ able. A bad road leads to Colunwy Castle, overlooking the Edwy from an eminence. On coming into the high road from Builth to Presteign, on the top of a very high hill, is Llyn Llanillyn, a large pool of cir¬ cular shape, about a mile in circumfer¬ ence. So large a body of water collected in such a situation is rare, yet there are phenomena in Cardiganshire of the same kind, and of much greater magnitude. At ILarpton, between Old and New Rad¬ nor, there is a large oak, girth 27 feet. From the Hay to Abergavenny, mr. Wyndham took the nearest road. The track over the Hatterel mountains for 5 miles, was intricate and boggy, till he reached the source of the Hodney, near Chapel y Fine, situated in the very inmost recesses of the vale of Ewyas; the cur¬ rent of which he followed to Ll avthony Abbey. On the left of the road from Hay to Brecon, a stately round turret announces the ancient retreat of the Clifford family, where Mahel, the unfortunate son of Milo earl of Hereford, lost his life. On the turnpike-road to Brecon, pass Classbury (church) 4£m. (at the distance of lm. on the r. is Maeshech-hall, Walter Wilkins, esq. Within Jm. is Tregoyd, lord viscount Hereford. 4m. on the r. is Llangocd Castle, J. Macnamara, esq. lm. on the 1. of the road is Gxucrnalt-lodge, sir Edvvard Williams, bart. On the 1. Genoicd-lodge, H. Allen, esq. On the r. is the road to Builth, 15m. on the 1. to Crickhornel, 15Jm.) Brunllys, (Inn) 3m. If. (Im.on the 1. is Aberenig-Jilace, late H. Allen, esq. About half-vvay to Vel- linvach, on the r. is Pontywall-hall, Thos. Phillips, esq. Further on the r. is Tre- banned, David Lloyd, esq.) Vcllinvach- Inn, 3^m. Brecon, 4m. 3f. To New Radnor, 12 miles, Malkin. — Llanthony, 11 miles, Wyndham. — Builth, 15 miles, Malkin. — Kington, I4| miles, Lipscomb. Mr.Skrine ended hisTour in S. Wales at tin? place. 619 HEREFORD. 620 From Wigmnre, *3 miles, Warner. -Ledbury, 1S| miles, Lipscomb. -Glocesier, 20| miles, -Leominster, 12 miles. HEREFORD. The era of the origin of this city, has not been ascertained. Ac¬ cording to Gale it existed previous to the year 676, according to Godwin in 610, when Peada, king of Mercia held a synod at this place. It was called by the Brit¬ tons, Trefawith, from the beech trees, and Hen-with, from the old road. Mr. Gough says it was called Hen-fordd. Probably from these the Saxons formed it’s present name. Whatever was the origin of Here¬ ford, it’s having been made the seat of a bishop, was the means of enlarging it’s consequence. It became a principal town of the mercian kingdom, and ac¬ cording to Pnlydore Virgil, had a magnifi¬ cent church as early as the reign of Offa. Under the West Saxon kings it’s progress was equally flourishing; and in or about the time of Athelstan, the city was en¬ closed by Walls, which now imperfectly remain, tho’ improved and strengthened at various periods. The city was formerly surrounded with a deep ditch and broad walls. It had 6 noble ports or gates, ac¬ cording to Leland who writes, “ There be in the walles of Hereford 6 gates, Wye- gate, Frere-gate, standeth w. soe called of the Grey Fryers’ house standinge towards w-s-w.; Wide Marsh Gate, flat n. (Wide Marsh is a marsh ground a little without the suburbe); Bishop’s Street-Gate, n-e. ; St. Andrew’s Gate, by e. so called of St. Andrew’s parish, in the suburbes without this gate. There is a little brooke that cometh about 5 miles by w. from Here¬ ford, and so circuitt the ditches of Here¬ ford town walles, where it is not defend¬ ed by the Wye, and goeth downe, leaving the castle on the right hand, and there drivinge two milles, goeth into Wye a flyte shoote beneath Wye bridge, and hard beneath the castle. The walles and gates of Hereford be right well maintained by the burgesses of the towne.” With a mistaken view to improvement or to gra¬ tify the caprice of authority, most of the gates have been taken down. It is in this way that the venerable aspect of ancient towns suffer irreparable injury. The on¬ ly gate remaining is Bye-street-Gate, greatly mutilated. In the year 1055 a formidable army under the command of Gryffydd, a sovereign of Wales, and Algar earl of Chester, entered the city, whereon a dreadful carnage ensued, and the Cathe¬ dral was burnt. Soon afterwards Harold returned to Hereford, rebuilt the walls and founded the Castle. The latter oc¬ cupied a part of the s. and e. sides of the city, having the river Wye on the s. and defended by a large and deep moat on the n. and e. sides, to the angle of which the wall of the city extended. The entrance was on the n. side of the eastern ward, over a great bridge of stone arches, with a draw-bridge in the middle. It is now al¬ most obliterated, the only vestage of any part of the building, being a fragment of the s-w. corner, now converted into a dwelling. After the conquest, king Wil¬ liam held Hereford in his own demesne, and the English inhabitants remained sub¬ ject to various stated customs; but the French inhabitants were almost exempted. The 1st earl of Hereford, after the norman invasion, was William Fitz Osborne, who assumed extensive power both here and in the Isle of Wight. In the reign of Henry 1, Walter, constable of England, held the castles of Gloucester and Here¬ ford in his custody. King Stephen dis¬ posed of the whole county to Robert de Bellamonte, earl of Leicester, on creating him earl of Hereford. The castle was af¬ terwards seized by William Talbot, who advanced Milo, son of Walter to the earl¬ dom. In 1141, the King invested it in person, to whom it was surrendered. The castle was afterwards usurped by the barons, seized by the earl of Leicester, and possessed by Edward 1, in conse¬ quence of his subjugation of Wales. At the time that hostilities commenced be¬ tween Charles and his parliament, this city was surrendered to the latter. See further, Duncumb’s “ Collections,” vol. 1, p. 227, &c. Near the site of the castle is a kind of summer pavilion erected for the accommodation of those who have re¬ course to the bowling-green. A terrace walk has been made round the whole, which commands a varied and pleasing view of a richly wooded valley, and the meanders of the river Wye. At the angle of the terrace are fixed horizontally in the ground five pieces of cannon, one of which was a six and thirty pounder. On the r. is an old bridgeoverthc Wye, the central arch of which is smaller than the rest. Among the 622 621 HEREFORD. public buildings of Hereford, the Cathedral, tho’ deprived of much of it’s venerable ap¬ pearance by the fall of the w. front in the year 1786, still stands pre-eminently con¬ spicuous. This structure owes it’s origin to the murder of Ethelbert, king of the East Angles, by the mercian king OfFa, whose many valuable donations to the church which previously occupied the same site, and had been dedicated to saint Mary, has occasioned him to be sometimes considered as the founder of the New Cathedral (in the construction of which those gifts were applied) erected by Mil- frid a viceroy, or provincial governor un¬ der Egbert, about the year 825. Within less than 200 years, however, it appears to have fallen wholly to decay, and was rebuilt by the munificence of bishop Ath- elston, or Ethelstan, who had been ap¬ pointed to this see in the year 1012, and presided till the time of his decease in 1055. In this year, the cathedral was de¬ stroyed by fire as before-mentioned. It continued in ruins till about the year 1079, when Robert de Loxing, or Lozinga, was made bishop of Hereford by William the conqueror, and soon after commenced a new structure on the model of the church of Aken, now Aix-la-Chapelle, in Ger¬ many. Lozinga died in June, 1095, but his design was afterwards completed by bishop Raynelm, chancellor to the queen of Henry 1, who was invested by the king with the ring and crosier about the year 1096. He held this see till his death in Oct. 1115. The Central Tower was built about a century after by bishop En- gidius de Braose. or Bruce, who possessed the see from 1200 to 1216. The Tower over the centre of the ancient w. front ap¬ pears to have been the next addition, and may be referred to the time of Edward 2, or beginning of Edward 3. Furtheraltera- tions were made at subsequent periods : the great w. window in this front was made under the superintendancc of Wil¬ liam Lochard, a canon, who died in 1458; and a beautiful n. porch was built by bishop Booth,between the years 1516 and 1535. The choir was fitted up and decor¬ ated by Dean Tyler, about the year 1720; but the last alterations of any considerable importance are of very recent date, and have been effected since 1786, when the tower over the w. front gave way, and fell to the ground, destroy ing all the build¬ ing immediately beneath it, together with the adjoining parts of the nave. The w. end has since been rebuilt under the di¬ rection of mr. Wyatt, and the whole cathe¬ dral repaired. The general plan of Hereford Cathedral is that of a Cross, with a lesser transept towards the e. and a Chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, be¬ yond it. From the intersection of the nave and transept, rises a square stone tower, which had formerly a spire of tim¬ ber upon it, cased with lead, and rising 92 feet in height above the battlements; but this was pulled down during the late re¬ pairs, in order to relieve the arches of the tower from a ponderous superincumbent weight. The greater transept is not uni¬ form, it’s n. end being more spacious than the s.; yet an additional building, now used as the Chapter House, but originally employed as the Treasury, gives it’s ap¬ pearance an air of symmetry. The ex¬ terior parts of the cathedral are very dis¬ similar in appearance, and particularly since the construction of the new w. front the architecture of which is extremely in¬ congruous to the principles of the style it pretends to imitate. Whatever was the cause of this departure from the ancient character of the building, whether it arose from inadequacy of the funds, or from the want of skill in the architect, it’s effects are certainly to be lamented, inasmuch as they detract greatly from the sublimity of the original design. The great door, as it now appears, can hardly be compared to any thing else than a very ill-formed niche, with an obtuse arch, bounded by two buttresses, and surmounted by bat¬ tlements; the great window is in the high pointed style ; and the centre termi¬ nates with battlements, and has an empty niche. Besides the buttresses above men¬ tioned, the facade has 2 five-sided and 2 common buttresses; the niches over the side doors are paltry in the extreme. The exterior of the nave on the n. side presents much of it’s original character, tho’ the tops of the buttresses, clerestory windows, parapets, &c., arc modern : the principal windows correspond with those of the s. side. The Porch, which forms the grand entrance on this front, and was built by bishop Booth, about the com¬ mencement of the 16th century, i6 “con¬ structed with 4 clusters of small pillars, supporting as many pointed arches, 3 of 623 HEREFORD. 624 which arc open to the church-yard, and op Stanbury, about the middle of the 15th the 4th leads into the cathedral. The century, having 2 windows under obtuse columns are 6 feet in height, and rise 12 arches. The arches of the windows on feet from the level of their capitals to the the n. and e. sides of the smaller transept crown of the arch, making it lofty and are also of the obtuse form; and on the pointed. The capitals are plain and cir- nothern summit of this transept is a low cular, divided into several laminae, gra- and plain cross: the buttresses between dually decreasing in their circumference the windows are very shelving and prom- from that which is uppermost. The 3 inent. On the n. side of the Chapel principal mouldings of the arch leading dedicated to Our Lady, but now Used as into the church are curiously sculptured, the Library, are 6 windows, of the lancet The roof is vaulted with stone, and di- form, supported by small circular pillars, vided by ribs into angular compartments, similar to those in use at the beginning of with quatrefoils, aud other foliage, at their of the 13th century; and not uncommon intersections. On each side of the n. or in the reign of Edward 1. Betweenthese front arch is an hexagonal turret, hav- are circles excavated in the wall, having ing winding stair-cases, which lead to a in the centre human faces, and other de^ small Chapel over the porch : these turrets vices; above is a series of intersecting have windows on all sides, except the 2 arches and columns, the capitals of Which which attach to the cathedral. On the are adorned with foliage : a plain parapet sides of the front or outer arch are also surmounts the whole. A porch vaulted 3 quatrefoils, in circles ornamented with and groined with stone, projects on this foliage; above is a window under an arch side, and leads to the vaults under the less pointed than those of the porch, and Chapel: the outer arch is pointed, with a supported bysmall circular columns. This plain round moulding over it; the inner porch projects before that which is more arch is also pointed, but has the zig-zag ancient of the cathedral, vaulted also with ornament: the columns are plain and stone, and has ribs which diverge in 3 circular, and the capitals have some foli- directions from each corner; those on the age on them. The e. end of this chapel sides form the arch of their respective has 5 lancet windows ; those on the sides walls; and those in the middle meet in gradually declining in height from that in a centre orb, adorned with foliage: similar the centre: between each, on the sides, ribs also meet the orb at right angles from are 2 niches under trefoil arches ; above the opposite sides. In the e. wall is a are sculptured lozenges, and other orna- niche, 18 inches high, under a trefoil arch, ments of an oblong form; still higher is a adorned with crockets. Atthes-E. an- series of pointed trefoil arches, with bat- gle of the ancient Porch is a small circular tlements above, and pinnacles at the an- tower, with a winding stair-case; this gles. The windows on the s. side are also reaching above the parapet, terminates in of the lancet form, but are divided into 2 pediments, ornamented with crockets on lights by a single mullion : above them is the sides, and the heads of animals on the sculptured arangeor series of saxon arches top. The n. end of the great Transept is and pillars, intersecting each other: still plain, but the summit embattled, and it’s higher is a 2nd series of similar arches; sides are strengthened by massive but- these are without columns, and form tresses. On the e. and w. sides are 2 very what is called the Corbet Table. A small lofty and narrow windows, of 3 lights, Chapel, built by bishop Audley, at the under sharp pointed arches, with small latter end of the 15th century, projects on circular columns and mouldings; above this side, and forms 3 parts of a hexagon ; are corbels ; and still higher, on the para- each part contains 2 windows under the pet towards the west, is sculptured a flat or obtuse arch, introduced about that range of trefoil arches. On the e. side are period: the upper windows are divided also 2 of the ancient norman windows, into 6 compartments, by 2 mullions and a with circular arches; together with a- transom, much ornamented ; the head is nother, small and circular tower, formed also ramified into many fanciful divisions : in the angle and reaching above the roof the lower windows are smaller, and of of the transept. Between this and the les- more simple construction. The parapet ecr transept is alow Chapel, built by bish- above is embattled and has a row of small 625 HEREFORD. 626 clustered pillars, sculptured immediately under it, and supporting trefoil arches. The s. end of the smaller transept has 2 large windows, each divided by mullions into principal lights, with cinquefoil arch- es; the spaces above terminate in a tre¬ foil in the centre, and another on each side: the e. windows consist each of 4 lights under trefoil arches; on the sum¬ mit, towards the s. is a small stone cross. The s, end of the great transept has one large window under an obtuse arch; and a 2nd in a circular form above it which includes a trefoil. The former is divided into 6 long and narrow lights, under cinque¬ foil arches; and the head is similarly divided into 12 parts, under trefoil arches; the courses of stone about it plainly de¬ monstrate that this form is an alteration from the original window, and the same is observable in a more pointed window towards the w. This side has also a smaller window under an obtuse arch, containing 3 principal lights, subdivided by transoms, and each light is terminated by a cinquefoil arch : the ancient form of this modernized window is probably to be collected from the saxon arch, and zig¬ zag ornaments, of one in the same wall, the use of which has been superseded by that described ; but above it is still to be seen a corresponding range of saxon arch¬ es and columns. The principal windows on the s. side of the nave, are 7 in num¬ ber, with strong projecting buttresses be¬ tween them ; they consist, like those on the n. side, of 4 lights under trefoil arch¬ es, the head having a cinquefoil in the centre,with 2 trefoils under it; above are corbels, representing roses, foliage, and heads of men and animals. The cleres¬ tory windows, which form part of the new work of the nave, are also under pointed arches, with corbels above, designed to imitate the former. The great or central Tower has lost much of it’s primitive character from modern reparations: in it’sorginal state, it was massive and em¬ battled ; the whole was richly studded over with nail-head; and it was further distinguished by the round moulding, triangular frette, zig-zag, and other ap¬ propriate ornaments in the saxon style : but, altho’ the form and decorations were thus strictly saxon, the dispositions of these ornaments were in conformity to the pointed style ; while each side of the tow¬ er contained 2 ranges of lights, 4 in each range, and of the lancet form. The interior o f the Cathedral is still very inter¬ esting ; though it’s former venerable ap¬ pearance has been greatly destroyed by recent alterations, and by the removal of various sepulchral memorials, painted glass, &c. The nave is separated from the aisles by a double row of massive col¬ umns, sustaining circular arches, curious¬ ly decorated with mouldings of zig-zag, nail-head, lozenges, interwoven twigs, and other ornaments : most of the capitals are plainly sculptured, but those nearest to the choir display some well executed foliage. The arch adjoining the s. side of the choir, has, however, been altered from it’s original form and stripped of it’s ornaments: the arches also nearest the west door, have been rebuilt in a plain mannersince the fall of the w. end. Over the arches and immediately below the windows of the nave, is a range of arcades, under pointed arches, sustained on small clustered columns. The whole roof is vaulted, and groined with stone, and di¬ vided, by ribs, into compartments of various forms : some of the orbs are a- dorned with human heads and foliage; and on one of them, in the s. aisle, is a whole length male figure in an oblong shield. The entrance into the s. end of the great transept is under a low and pointed arch, which originally reached al¬ most to the ceiling, but has been partly filled up; and over the door is a niche and pedestal: somewhat lower, on each side, is a lower pedestal. The n. end of the great transept, called St.Cathraine’s Aisle, is now used as the parochial Church of St. John the Baptist; this is divided from a smaller aisle, on the east, by 2 arches on small clustered columns, having plain capitals on the side pillars, and a kind of volute to those in the centre; these arches are decorated with ribbed mouldings, in various patterns ; that in the middle con¬ sists of a series of small quatrefoils, in open work, which has a very light and handsome appearance; the outer mould¬ ing rests on human heads as corbels. A- bove is a range of arcades, under trefoil arches of elegant workmanship; each arcade is divided into three open com¬ partments by small columns, clustered and circular; the head of every arch is ornamented with 3 quatrefpils in circles: <327 HEREFORD. 628 the mouldings correspond with those of the arches, having the middle ornamented as before ; and those on the sides ribbed. Between the outer mouldings of the sev¬ eral arches, the wall is well sculptured in a mosaic pattern, representing 4 leaves expanded in each square : a cornice, simi¬ lar to the ornamented moulding, extends horizontally over the whole, which com¬ prises 6 arcades. The opposite or w. wall, is less decorated ; but it contains a handsome circular arch, originally used as a window: the arch is ornamented with a double row of zig-zag, resting on circular columns, with square capitals : the base of this window projects, and is marked with the hatched ornament. Be¬ fore the late alterations, the windows of the nave were adorned with the arms of various noble families. &c. in painted glass. The Nave is terminated by a plain screen, through which is the en¬ trance to the Choir, under a pointed arch : above is a large and well toned Organ, over which a noble circular arch extends, and supports the west side of the tower; the arch is decorated with zig-zag and nail-headed ornaments. The Choir is lofty, and well proportioned; it contains 50 stalls, with ornamental canopies in the pointed style : these tho’ composed of wood, are painted of a stone colour; un¬ der the seats are carved various grotesque and ludicrous devices and figures. Above the oak wainscotting on the sides of the altar, are rich open circular arches, with others still higher, in the pointed style. A flight of 7 steps leads to the altar, which has a sumptuous and elegant appear¬ ance. The eastern termination of the Cathedral is formed by the Chapel of our Lady, now used as the Library, and containing a valuable collection of books and manuscripts, arranged in clas¬ ses ; most of them lelate to ecclesiastic history. One of the greatest curiosities in this chapel, is an ancient Map of the World, on vellum, illuminated with gilt saxon letters, and having inscriptions in black letter. The different places appear to be marked by animals, houses, &c. but the whole is so thickly covered with dirt, that the full design cannot be traced. This map is contained within a frame ora- mented by foliage in the pointed style, and had originally shutters to preserve it from injury; it was discovered under a pile of lumber some years ago, and is even now sufficiently neglected. The win¬ dows in this part of the building are in the lancet form and separated one from the other by receding clusters of small pillars, supporting pointed arches, richly orna¬ mented with foliage and single leaves, in open-work of great elegance and light¬ ness : the capitals of the pillars are simi¬ larly ornamented, and quatrefoils in circles are introduced over the windows. Be¬ neath the library is a vault or crypt, which has of late years acquired the name of Golgotha, from it’s having been made a place of deposit for the human bones dis¬ turbed in the repairs of the Cathedral. The interior of Bishop Audley’s Chapel, which opens into the library, has a vaulted roof, groined w T ith stone, and divided by small ribs into various compartments; the ground of which is painted blue ; and the ribs red, with gilt edges. Tire centre orb has a representation of the Virgin Mary, gilt, and surrounded with a glory of the same: on the orb are the ancient and mod¬ ern arms of the See, and also those of the Deanery ; others are decorated with foli¬ age, and various appropriate ornaments. A gothic screen separates this chapel from the library, and is painted and gilt, to cor¬ respond with the ceiling. Nineteen saints and religious persons are represented on this screen, in a range above, and others form a series below ; they are placed in compartments, or niches, under canopies; and the whole is well wrought in stone, and richly painted in various colours. In the passage, or aisle, on the n. side of the choir, projecting into the burial- ground, is the Chapel erected by bishop Stanbury ; the roof of which is vaulted, and adorned with sculptured niches, cinquefoils, and other devices. Some well executed foliage also ornaments the walls, which, on the n. and w. sides, are also decorated with shields ; some of them allusive to scriptural subjects ; and others displaying tire arms of Stanbury, of the see and deanery of Hereford, &c. The general Dimensions of this cathedral are as follow : extreme length, 325 feet; from the w. door of the choir, 130 feet; length of the choir, 9fi feet; from the choir to the library door, 24 feet; length of the library, 75 feet; extent of the great transept, 100 feet; breadth of the nave and side aisles, 74 feet; breadth of thq 629 HEREFORD. 6S0 nave, 38 feet; height of the body of the church, 91 feet; height from the area to the vaulting 70 feet. The Sepulch¬ ral Memorials in this structure are still numerous ; tho’ many were defaced and swept away, at the Reformation ; others were demolished in the time of the civil wars, when the library, and other parts, suffered greatly ; many are concealed by the pevvs in the n. transept, and more brasses were accidentally sold among the old materials, disposed of after the general repair in 1786 : the last, which in a con¬ siderable degree might have supplied the want of appropriate decorations in the new part of the Church, were fortunately rescued from the furnace by a friend of the arts, and are now placed in the collec¬ tion of Richard Gough, esq. One of the most celebrated of the tombs, or monuments is that to the memory of the bishop, Thomas Cantilupe, who died in the year 1282, and was canonized in 1310. The reputed sanctity of this prelate occa¬ sioned his tomb to be visited by pilgrims and travellers from all parts of Europe ; and it is still regarded with veneration by the Catholics. It is composed of free¬ stone, in the altar form, and had originally a £gure or effigies of the bishop, inlaid in brass, together with 2 tablets and an in¬ scription round the verge, of the same metal; but these are all lost or destroyed : above, over the whole tomb, is a low stone canopy, supported on each side by 6 trefoil arches, and by 2 at the w. end ; the end towards the e. is attached to the wall: the arches rest on low circular pil¬ lars, with square capitals. Round the tomb, below these, under corresponding but cinquefoil niches, are small full-length effigies of 14 knights in armour, bearing shields: these figures have been much mutilated. Under a lofty arch, which opens from the aisle of the above transept into the passage next the choir, is an altar monument in commemoration of Bishop Aquablanca, whose effigies, mitred, and clad in episcopal robes, lies on the tomb beneath a stone canopy supported by 12 light pillars on each side, forming 6 com¬ partments in the lancet form, and termin¬ ating in trefoil arches : above are 3 quat- refoils; and still higher, as many trefoils, all in circles, under small painted cano¬ pies, ornamented with crockets, &c. The whole is a beautiful specimen of the rich and light effect of the pointed style of architecture. In the n. wall of the Library, under recessed arches, are 2 an¬ cient monuments, traditionally recorded to commemoiate Humphry de Bohun, earl of Hereford, and his Countess; and per¬ haps with more justice than those attribut¬ ed to the samepersons in Glocester Cathe¬ dral. Under an arch in the s. wall, and in which are two basons or cavities, for holy water, is placed the mutilated effigies of a lady wearing a coronet: on her surcoat were painted the arms of En¬ gland, which arc now almost defaced : this figure was dug up some years ago in the entrance to this chapel. Under a- nothcrarch, in the same wall, lies the ef¬ figy of Dean Berew, or Borerue : on the front of the arch are several boars passant, with leaves of rue in their mouths, in al¬ lusion to his name. In the passage on the e. side of the choir, in arches of the walls, are altar monuments of several bishops, with their effigies, episcopally habited; and also a large slab, beautifully inlaid with brass in memory of dean Frowcestre, who died in the year 1529. The effigies of the dean is represented under a hand¬ some canopy, richly adorned, and sup¬ ported by saints: beneath, arc latin verses on a tablet; and round the verge of the stone an inscription in black letter. In the s. end of the great transept is an altar monument, of alabaster, in commefnora- tion of Alexander Denton, and Anne, his first Wife ; their effigies are placed on the tomb, together with that of an infant in swaddling clothes. The lady died in 1566, in her 18th year, and was buried here, as appears from the inscription ; which also represents this spot as her husband’s grave, but erroneously, as he was interred at Hillesdon, 1576, having married a 2d lady, who was likewise buried at the same place. Against the w. wall of this transept, is a handsome monument in memory of Dean Tytler, who died in July 1724 ; and of Sarah, his lady, who died in November 1726. In the Choir, and filling up nearly the whole space beneath one of the arches on the n. side, is an elaborate monument to the memory of Bishop Bisse, and Bridget his lady, who was daughter of Thomas, duke of Leeds, and was countess of Plymouth by her 1st marriage : the former died in September, 1721; and the latter in May, 1718. In 631 HEREFORD. 632 an arch on the m. side of the altar, is the tomb of Bishop Bennet, who died in Oc¬ tober, 1615; and whose effigies lies under a canopy supported by black marble col¬ umns of the Corinthian order. Near this, on an altar monument, is the effigies of Bishop Braose, episcopally habited, and sustaining the model of a tower in his left hand ; he died in November, 1215. In the s. aisle of the nave is an interesting, tho’ mutilated tomb, in memory of sir Richard Pembruge, or Brydges, an ances¬ tor of the lords Chandos, who was knight of the garter in the time of Edward 3, and died in 1375. His effigies represents him in close armour, with his hands in the at¬ titude of prayer, and a greyhound at his feet. The right leg of this figure having been broken off and lost, it’s place has been supplied by a new one of wood, on which the mechanic has absurdly carved a 2nd garter; not knowing that this badge of the order is by etiquette confined to the left leg : the arms of the deceased are re¬ peated round the tomb in quatrefoils. In the opposite aisle, under a pointed arch, with a cinquefoil top rising to a pediment, with gilt crockets and a finial, is the ef¬ figies of Bishop Booth, clad in a rich epis¬ copal habit with his head reposing on a pillow, on each side of which is an angel: this prelate died in May, 1535. Be¬ sides the personages already mentioned, many others of eminence have been in¬ terred in this Cathedral: among them are numerous bishops. John Philips, the poet, was also buried here, in the year 1708, at the age of 32 : an inscribed slab, in the n. part of the great transept, marks the place of his interment. Among the funeral relics, a most exquisitely finished monument in memory of the Doddington family, deserves particular notice. Un¬ der the 2nd window of the s. aisle, is a curious and very ancient Font, recently brought from another part of the church : the diameter is nearly 3 feet, and the sides 4 inches in thickness, leaving a va¬ cuity sufficiently large for the immersion of infants. On the outside are represent¬ ed, in relief, the 12 apostles in as many niches, under saxon arches, studded with the nail-head ornament, and supported on pillars with foliaged capitals, and further ornamented with the spiral band, zig-zag, and other corresponding decorations. Over the figures of the apostles which are 15 inches in height, and much mutilated, is a broad band, encircling the whole, marked in relief with a series of ornament, resembling the letter T, alternately in¬ verted : the whole is of common stone, and supported on the backs of 4 sea-lions* Almost all the buildings dependent on the cathedral, are situated on it’s s. side, where once was a beautiful Chapter- House, and a Chapel of very high antiquity. The former stood at a short distance from the end of the great transept, and was ele¬ gantly constructed in the pointed style of architecture. The demolition of this struc¬ ture was commenced during the civil wars, when it was stripped of it’s cover¬ ing of lead, and exposed to the weather: it’s destruction was accelerated about the beginning of the last century by bishop Bisse, (who pulled part of it down in order to apply the materials to the reparations of the Episcopal Palace,) and has been wholly completed in the present, by the Chapter of Hereford, who have lately taken down the interesting remains. A more glaring example of worse than gothic barbarity of taste occurcd here dur¬ ing the prelacy of bishop Egerton, who procured a commission from the arch¬ bishop of Canterbury to inspect the con¬ dition of the Ancient Chapel, which stood between the s. side of the bishop’s Clois¬ ters and the Palace. This was an inter¬ esting specimen of the architecture of remote ages, yet was returned, by the Vandals who examined it under the com¬ mission, as ‘ruinous and useless,’ and or¬ ders were given by the bishop for it’s de¬ molition ; though it was well known at the time that less than 20/. would have put it into as good repair as it had been in during 400 years! The Bishop’s Cloisters, which form the communication between the cathedral and the palace, in¬ close an area of about 100 feet square, ap¬ propriated to the purposes of sepulture, and distinguished by the name of Our Lady's Arbour: the arches of the windows are obtuse, but the windows themselves are diversified by various ramifications. The w. side of these cloisters was destroy¬ ed in the time of Edward 6, and a Grammar School erected on the site : this also having become greatly decayed, Was taken down about the year 1760, and a larger building was erected on the spot by subscription, under an engagement that, in addition to 033 HEREFORD. C34 the uses of a school, it should be applied to the triennial meetings of the 3 Choirs of Hereford, Worcester, and Glocester, and to other public occasions : from this ap¬ plication it has been termed the Music Room. The materials of which it is built are partly stone and partly brick: it’s length is 80 feet, it’s breadth 40, and it’s height the same. This school has the privilege of presenting to 15 scholarships at St. John’s College, Cambridge, in turn with Manchester and Marlborough: it presents likewise to 15 scholarships at Brazen-Nose College, Oxford. It was founded in 1384, under the auspices of Bishop Gilbert. The Bishop’s Palace is an ancient building, pleasantly situated at a little distance from the banks of the Wye : it’s outward appearance is by no means prepossessing, tho’ many of the apartments are fitted up with elegance; the gardens are extensive, and occupy a gentle declivity contiguous to the river. The Deanery, and Prebendal Houses, the latter of which arc generally given to the residentiaries, are situated nearly opposite the n-e. angle of the cathedral, but display nothing remarkable. The College is a venerable pile of stone building, sur¬ rounding a quadrangle of about ICO feet, and appropriated to the uses of the vicar’s choral. This appears to have been erect¬ ed about the time of Edward 4, and prin¬ cipally from the benefactions of bishop Stanbury, before which the vicar’s choral had their residence in Castle-street: be¬ sides the apartments for the vicars, it con¬ tains a spacious common hall, a small chapel, and a library ; but the ‘2 latter are in a state of dilapidation. The Cathedral Yard, was long the burial-ground for all the parishes in the city, and for many of the adjacent eut-panshes; but since the year 1791, the city parishes have each provided distinct places of interment. The Members of Hereford cathedral, are the Bishop, Dean, 2 Archdeacons, 6 residen¬ tiary Canons, including the dean, a Lectu¬ rer, a Chancellor of the Diocese, a Chan¬ cellor of the Cathedral, a Treasurer, a Subtreasurer, a Precentor, 28 Prebenda¬ ries, a 1st and 2d Master of the Grammar School, a Chapter Clerk, 12 Vicar’s Cho¬ ral, being priests, including a Custos, an Organist, 7 Choristers, a Verger, and 2 Sextons : the Dean and residentiary canons constitute the Chapter. The episcopal jurisdiction extends over the whole coun¬ ty of Hereford, with the exception of 8 parishes, which form part of the diocese of St. David’s; and also includes a very considerable portion of Shropshire, 4 parishes in Monmouthshire, 8 in Radnor¬ shire, 6 in Montgomeryshire, and 21 in Worcestershire. The present value of the Bishoprick is about 20001. per annum. Previous to the civil wars, Hereford con¬ tained 5 distinct Churches, besides the cathedral, viz. St. Peter’s, All Saints, St. Nicholas’s, St. Martin’s, and St. Owen’s; the church of St. John the Baptist appears to have been at all times an appendage to the Cathedral; St. Martin’s, and St. Owen’s were destroyed during the siege in 1645. St. Peter’s was founded soon after the nor- man conquest by Walter de Lacy, who had attended the Conqueror to England, and was rewarded for his services, with various manors and lands in Herefordshire, and other counties. After the completion of the church, the founder was accident¬ ally killed by falling from the battlements, as he was inspecting the work : this oc¬ currence, according to the Monasticon, happened in the calends of April, 1085. The nave is separated from the aisles by octagon columns on the s. side, and by clustered pillars on the n. On each side of the chancel, are 7 ancient stalls, thought to have been designed for the use of the brothers of Sc. Guthlac’s Priory: these are very elegantly carved into pannels, quatrefoils, &c. and have light and beau¬ tiful canopies of fret-work ; the seats have carved figures beneath them, similar to those of the stalls in the cathedral. This church was repaired, and partly rebuilt, in the year 1793, at the expense of the parishioners. The rectory of St. Owen’s was united to this in the time of Charles 2, but the right of individual patronage was preserved. All Saint’s church was given, by Henry 3, to the master and brethren of the hospital of St. Anthony, in Vienna, who appear to have formed a small society here to superintend their property, as early as the 22d of Edward 1. This edifice consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a tower rising from the ground, and terminating in a lofty and well proportioned spire : the tower over¬ hangs it’s base considerably on the n. side, but is sustained in iVs present situa¬ tion by 2 new buttresses. The nave is 636 635 HEREFORD. separated from the aisles by circular col¬ umns, sustaining pointed arches : the roof is of timber, with ancient projecting angel brackets, pierced pannels, and pendants of foliage and flowers. Here are several stalls, supposed to have been appropriated to the brethren of the above society. The pulpit is profusely carved, and on the sounding board is inscribed, “ How bles¬ sed are the feet of them that bring glad tidings of peace.” Roy. J. Under the w. end of this fabric, and contiguous to it, are several subterraneous passages and vaulted apartments. The s. porch is embattled, and supported by buttresses ; the entrance is under an open cinquefoil arch. St. Martin’s, which is now annex¬ ed to this parish, was originally the moth¬ er church; as appears by a valuation made in the time of Edward 1, in which All Saints is distinguished as the Chapel. St. Nicholas’s Church is a small edifice, consisting of a nave, n. aisle and chancel; this fabric has been recently repaired, but is still in a state of decay ; and the chancel has the singular appearance of falling 2 ways, the n. and s. walls both leaning outwards. Besides the above places of divine worship, Hereford contains a Meet¬ ing House for each of the following de¬ nominations of sectarists; Dissenters, Ro¬ man Catholics, Quakers, and Methodists. Various Monasteries and religious houses existed in this city and it’s suburbs, pre¬ vious to the reformation ; but most of them are now down, and the sites are occupied by other buildings. On the n. side of the city beyond the Wide-marsh-gate, are some remains of a Monastery of Black Friars, or Friar’s Preachers, who were originally established in the Port Field, beyond Bye street-gate, about the year 1276, under the auspices of William Can- tilupe, brother to the bishop Cantilupe, and finished in the reign of Edward 3, ac¬ cording to the original design ; and was himself present at the dedication of the church, together with his son, the Black Prince, 3 archbishops, and many of the nobility and gentry. This Friary became very flourishing, and many persons of dis¬ tinction were buried here. On the dis¬ solution, the site and buildings were granted to John Scudamore, esq. of Wil¬ ton ; and William Wygmore, gent, of Shobdon ; but early in the reign of Eliza¬ beth, they came into the possession of the Coningsby family, from whom the estate has descended to the present earl of Es¬ sex. The principal vestiges of this establishment are some decayed offices, and the remains of a Cross, or a stone pul¬ pit, as it was originally built for the pur¬ poses of preaching from. The s. side of the Prior’s lodgings is tolerably entire ; it is sustained by 3 buttresses, and in the basement has 2 oblong windows, each di¬ vided by 2 pillars into 3 compartments having cinquefoil arches: at the s-w. corner is a circular tower. The wall on the n. side is supported by 4 buttresses, but is much dilapidated ; here part of the ruins are mantled with ivy. The Cross is constructed in the form of a hexagon, open on each side, and surrounded by a flight of steps, gradually decreasing as they ascend. In the centre is a base of the same figure, with 2 trefoil arches on each side, supporting the shaft of the cross, which branching out into ramifica¬ tions from the roof of the pulpit, and pas¬ sing through it, appears above in a muti¬ lated state: the upper part is embattled, and each angle is supported by a buttress. The picturesque effect of -this beautiful remain is greatly increased by a large al¬ der, which has forced it’s way in 4 stems through the joints of the steps; and one branch twines round the pillar, and passes out through an arch of the hexagon. About 40 or 50 yards s-e. from the ruins of the Black Friars, is Coningsby’s Hospital, a charitable foundation, began by sir Thomas Coningsby, knt., in the year 1614 on the site of a small hospital, anciently belonging to the knights hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, for 2 of the most valuable characters of society, (altho' generally the most neglected) the worn- out soldier and the superannuated, faithful servant. The adjoining ruins of the Black Friars supplied the materials for the new edifice, which was constructed in the form of a quadrangle, and comprised 12 apartments, a chapel, hall, and suit¬ able conveniences. Over the door in the centre of the hospital, are 2 small ionic pillars, inclosing a tablet, with the Con¬ ingsby arms; gules, 3 conies, argent, im¬ paling those of Fitz-William, lozenges, argent and gules. The front of the chapel terminates with 2 arches, over which is the shaft of across: the inside is quite plain : a piece of garden ground is attach- 637 HEREFORD. 63S cd to each dwelling. St. Giles’s Hos- apartments have also a rustic front and pital, stands without St. Ovven’s-gate, and was originally founded in the year 1290, for friars Grisey, or Savignian monks. It afterwards became he property of the knights templars; and being seized by the crown, was given by Richard 2, to the city of Hereford, and appropriated to the purpose of an alms-house. The endow¬ ments are applied to the support of 5 poor men, who are each allowed M. 10s. monthly; clothes every third year, &c. The hospital was rebuilt in the year 1770, by voluntary subscription : a piece of gar¬ den-ground is attached to each residence. St. Ethelbert’s Alms-house was erected in the reign of Henry 3d, principally by in¬ dulgences and relaxation of penance, granted by the bishops of Hereford, Cov¬ entry, Salisbury, and Ely, to those who contributed towards it. The revenues of this foundation, which now amount to 65/. per annum, are applied to the main¬ tenance of 10 poor women, each of whom has also an apartment and garden. The Infirmary is pleasantly situated near the river, a short distance s-e. from the Cas¬ tle walks : it was first opened for the ad¬ mission of patients on the 26th of March, 1776. The committee of subscribers, un¬ der whose superintendence the concerns of this establishment are conducted, has likewise the direction of the Lunatic Asylum, a building on the n-e. of the In¬ firmary, erected about the year 1792, for the reception of 20 patients afflicted with insanity : this also was instituted by sub¬ scription. The education of the youthful poor is provided for by a Charity School, partly supported by voluntary con¬ tributions, and partly by revenues arising from donations and legacies: here 50 boys, and 30 girls receive instruction and cloth¬ ing ; and small sums are given to provide many of them with apprenticeships. The Work-house is a convenient building, without the Eigne Gate, established on a general plan by a union of the parishes, and governed under a system of judicious regulations. The new County Goal, occupies the site of the Priory of St. Guth- lac. This building was completed in 1797, under the supintendence, and from the designs of the architect, mr. John Nash. It is enclosed within a high brick wall, having a handsome rusticated gate¬ way, with tulcan pillars; the keepej’s pediment. The prison itself is spacious. The turnkey’s lodge in front has on each side, 2 reception cells, for the confinement of prisoners till examined by the surgeon, previous to their being admitted into the interior of the gaol; and 2 small court¬ yards for the prisoners. Here are a warm and a cold bath, with an oven to fumigate and purify the prisoners’ clothes; and the flat roof above is the place of execution. The court is flagged, and in it is the en¬ gine-house, and a well, by which the whole prison is supplied with excellent water. A house for the manufacturer or task-master, and a very neat shop for the articles manufactured in the prison, viz. shoes, slippers, gaiters, stockings, gloves, garters, flaxen yarn, and nets; the sale of which is promoted by advertisement, at the expense of the county. At the upper end of this court is the gaoler’s house, on the ground floor of which is the magis¬ trate’s committee-room, which is about IS yards diameter, and nearly circular, with windows opening into every court, hav¬ ing a complete command of the whole prison. See further Nield’s Remarks on this Prison, Gent. Mag. vol. 78, p. 289. These courts have gardens in them. The expense of this edifice, which is strong, clean, and well regulated, amounted to about 18,650/. The City Goal bears marks of considerable antiquity, and form¬ erly composed one side of Bye-street- gate. This goal contains one small cell, and 3 very high apartments, with a win¬ dow in each ; the whole very dry and clean; a dungeon beneath, once used for the purposes of confinement, has been converted into a cellar, by the interposi¬ tion of mr. Nield ; whose benevolence of heart has induced him to pursue the plan of die much lamented Howard, and to descend into the depths of misery for the god-like purpose of alleviating distress. The Shire Hall, which stands in the area called the Hightown, nearly in the cen¬ tre of Hereford, is supposed to have been erected in the reign of James 1, by John Abel, the expert carpenter, as he is called in the letter from the governor Scudamore to lord Digby, who constructed the mills on which the safety of the city so much depended during the siege in 1645. This building forms an oblong square, it’s length being 81 feet, and it’s breadth 34 : 639 HEREFORD. 640 it is composed principally of wood, and now consists of only one floor, supported on 3 ranges of pillars. Under the Shire Hall, the Markets for grain and fish are held : at the e. end is the butcher’s mar¬ ket j and at the w. end, the poultry and butter markets. Very considerable improvements have been made in the ap¬ pearance of Hereford since the year 1774, when an act of Parliament was obtained for the inclosure of about 150 acres of waste lands on the n. side of the city, and which formed part of the tract called YVide-marsh; the other part having been inclosed as early as the reign of Henry 8. The situation of Hereford on the banks of the Wye would be extremely favour¬ able for it’s Trade, if the navigation of that river was less precarious; but this is so entirely dependant on the state of the weather, that it cannot be made to an¬ swer the purpose of regular conveyance. The principal manufacture that is carried on here, is that of gloves, which is toler¬ ably flourishing; and some progress has recently been made in the manufacture of flannels: hats are also made by a few manufacturers. The Wye Bridge was founded as early as the time of Henry 1, and at his particular request; Bishop Richard, who held Are see from the year 1120 to 1127, contributing greatly to the work. The present bridge is supposed to have been constructed about the end of the 15th century : it consists of 6 arches ; one of which was rebuilt after the siege in 1645, the former having been destroy¬ ed to prevent the approach of the Scots. The same materials were employed in it’s construction, but it’s height was consid¬ erably reduced, from which cause the bridge has an irregular appearance. The Theatre of Hereford has some claims to notice, from having been the nursery of a Clive, a Siddons, and a Kemble : it’s direction, indeed, was for many years in the Kemble family, who had long been inhabitants of this city. The present Theatre is a very neat modern building, standing on the w. side of Broad street; and having a pediment ornamented with busts, &c. Other sources of amusement are derived from Assembly-rooms, with balls and occasional concerts. The po¬ pulation of Hereford, as returned under the act of 1801, amounted to 6828; of which 3023 were males; and 3805 fe¬ males: the number of houses at the same period was 1460. Many persons of considerable eminence have been born in this city : among those whose celebrity has been most distinguished, are Roger of Hereford, Bishop Miles Smith, John Guil- lim, John Davies, Richard Gerlhinge, Eleanor Gwynn, gen. Stringer Lawrence, captain James Cornwall, and David Gar¬ rick. See further “ Beauties of England,” and Duncumb’s “ Collections towards the History and Antiquities of the County of Hereford.” The Inns in Hereford are good; the City-arms Hotel, the Redstreak-tree, near the town-hall, and the Swan, are the prin¬ cipal. Eastward of the city is a public walk, called Castle-green, where formerly stood a strong fortification, which in the time of Oliver Cromwell was tenable. About one mile n-w. from Hereford at an angle of the road, which in one di¬ rection leads to Stretford-bridge, in another towards Hay, is the remains of a stone cross, generally called the White Cross. The base consists of an hexagonal flight of 7 steps, measuring 10 feet wide at the bot¬ tom, each 11 inches high, and 12 in breadth. The first and only remaining stage of the shaft, is also hexagonal, it’s height being 6 feet, and the breadth of each face 2 feet, exclusive of a pillar be¬ tween each. In these sides are as many niches, containing shields bearing a lion rampant: the niches arc under pointed arches, supported on small columns. Above is an embattled parapet, with the mouldings and base of a 2nd division of the shaft; it’s present height is 15 feet. Mr. Duncumb attributes the origin of this cross to an infectious disorder which ra¬ vaged this county, and rendered it neces¬ sary to remove the markets from Here¬ ford : the spot of waste ground on which the cross stands was applied to that pur¬ pose. In memory of this event, dr. Lewis Charlton, afterwards bishop of Hereford, caused this cross to be erected, about the year 1345.—Collections, vol. l,p. 399. On the s-e, side of the Wye, about 2m. below Hereford, is Rutheras, or Rother- was the seat of Charles Bodenham, esq. The mansion is spacious and handsome. It was erected by the grandfather of the present possessor. Near it is a decayed chapel, and extensive offices, which be¬ longed to the ancient manor-house. The 641 HEREFORD. 642 grounds are pleasant, and contain some fine timber. The prospect on the s-w. is terminated byan eminence called Dynedor- Hill, on which are vestiges of an ancient Camp. From this eminence the views are exceedingly fine : comprehending on the n-w. Hereford, with an easy ascent from the banks of the Wye; beyond stretches a beautiful vale, bounded by the Brecknock¬ shire mountains. On the n. and n-e hori¬ zon are the Clee-hills of Shropshire; to¬ wards the e. the Malvevn-hills of Worces¬ tershire; on the s-e. and s. is a pleasant and variegated country, enlivened by the meanderings of the Wye. On the s-w. appear the Hatterel-hills, or as they are more generally called, the Black-moun¬ tains. Dynedor is cultivated even to the verge of the entrenchment, and spotted with cottages : it’s parapet is covered with underwood; and it’s area is tillage land. The approach to Ross from Hereford lies over a vale of rich meadows, remark¬ able for a breed of fine oxen and milch cows; where the bold windings of the Wye are adorned with the ruins of Wilton Cas¬ tle, and a stone bridge of masterly archi¬ tecture. These are rendered more attrac¬ tive by the sails of barges playing in the wind. From this spot the famous cause¬ way leads to the base of a rocky eminence, on the brow of which the Man of Ross’s Walk, a plantation of forest trees, is pre¬ sented. The broad road from the cause¬ way continues in a graceful sweep, as¬ cending to the opposite side of the hill, and there enters the w. end of the town. The whole of this view is finely diversifi¬ ed, producing an abundant variety of en¬ tertaining objects. Those who wish to avoid the ferry at Goodrich, may find a beautiful ride over Wilton-bridge, on the Monmouth road. At Pencreak-Hill, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, an uncom¬ monly fine landscape opens. It presents from an eminence, the river Wye, mean¬ dering along the vale, the enchanting windings of which are dignified by the stately appearance of Goodrich castle on the right. The variety and extent of ■hill, vale, wood, and water, which com¬ pose this view, baffle description. The tourist may pursue his journey along the banks of the Wye, or boats may be ob¬ tained. [See Ross, Monmouth, and the Wye.] On the road from Hereford to New Radnor, the traveller will pass immedi¬ ately by the roman station of Magna, now called Kenchester. Upon a wooded emin¬ ence to the n. called Crcdon-Hill, is a fine british camp, commanding a most delight¬ ful and extensive view. A few miles further is Foxley, the seat of mr. Price, the ingenious author of a work on the pic¬ turesque. The labour of ascending his beautiful terrace, and of penetrating his luxuriant wood is always amply repaid, by a variety of natural and unadorned scenery. [See Leominster.] Mr. Shaw, author of aTour to the West of England, made an Excursion from Here¬ ford to the large, antique stone pillar, called Whitecross, [see 640.] Proceed¬ ing through the village of Mansel Lacey, he entered the domains of Foxley, situated between finely wooded hills. The ex¬ ternal appearance of the house is not in unison with the magnificence of the ac¬ companiments. The beautiful gardens and grounds brought him to a most charm¬ ing terrace, between the 2 vales bounded by woods, which continue to a hill called Lady Lift, a lofty promontory, wrapped in a mantle of wood and crowned with firs, which commands a prospect of the most enchanting scenes, on which he gazed with rapture and admiration. Make a digression through Little Mansel to Brad- wardine, situated on the opposite side of the Wye, the original residence of the family of Thomas Bradwardine, arch-bish¬ op of Cantetbury in the reign of Edward 3, who for his deep learning, was called dr. Profundus. Hence view that charming scene, the Golden Vale, remarkable for it’s luxuriant vegetation, and yellow vernal flowers. In the direction to Hereford, pass in sight of Ganston, a neat mansion, and of Moccas-Cuurt, the seat of sir George Amyand Cornwall, bart. Onward, on the right, may be seen mr. Parry’s of the Ware, fronting Crcden-hill, about a mile from which lies Kenchester, supposed to have been the Ariconiurn of antiquity, said to have been destroyed by an earthquake, Roman bricks, coins, and other remains, have been found upon the spot. Not far distant, in 1669, was discovered in a wood, a large paved vault, with some tables of plaistcr; and the following year, a bath, with the brick flues entire. The road to Presteign affords, in many 22 (> 13 HEREi places, very interesting prospects. The /'lack mountains stretch a dreary ridge on the left, and less rugged, tho’ boldly rising eminences bound the w. horizon. Some ot these hills are smooth and verdant. At L.yon’s-hall, 17 miles, are some remains of an ancient castle placed upon an eminence near the church. The road most fre¬ quented passes through Kington but one more short may be taken to the r. at Lyon’s-hall, descending through lanes for 2 miles into some marshy ground. This road leads to Eywood the seat of the earl of Oxford and earl Mortimer. After¬ wards pass the extensive encampment called Weobly-ditches , and Eywood warren. The Great Road lies to While-cross, ljm. (on the 1. is the road to Hay, 19|m.) Three Elms, Jm. (on the 1. is the road to Kington, 17|m.) Over Lyue, 7f. Portway , ljm. Park, 1 m. (at 5 am. distance is The Lodge,and lm. further on the 1. is Canon Pyon , major Sawyer.) New Inn, lm. (cross a branch of the Lugg, and lm: further another branch,) West-hope, 2m. If. (lm. beyond is Hidejield, James Carpen¬ ter, esq. lm. further. The Thorn, — Stone esq.) Stretford-bridge, over a branch of the Arrow, 2.§m. (lm. hence, on the r. is a road to Leominster, 4£m.; on the 1. to Hay, 18Jm. 2m. further, on the r. to Leominster, 6 §m. Here are Burton, John Brewster, esq. and a seat of Bryan Chow- they, esq. ^m. further on the 1. is Bidney, Lacon Lambe, esq.) Pembridge, 45 m. Cross the Arrow, on the 1. to Kington, 5j,-m.; l^m. further cross che Kington ca¬ nal, to Stajde, 4m. (on 1. to Kington, 6 |m.) Comb, l§m. cross the Endwall river to Pit ESTEI C N, 2m. The Great road to Kincto.v, lies past the While Cross, before-mentioned, l^m. (Am. to 1. is Huntington, John Evans, esq. 2,1m. on the r. is Burghill. — Biddulph, esq. 2m. from Hereford on r. is the road to Pembridge, llijm.) Tillington, 3|m. (on the r. Tillington-Conrt, Wm. Taylor, esq.) Brinsop court, l^m. (on 1. — Dansey, esq.) Wormesley, 1 |m. (Wuryiesley-Grange, R. Payne Knight, esq. 2 m. on 1. is Gam- stone, J. Peploe Birch, esq.) Weobley, 3jm. (Near this place are tlic Horn, Samuel Peploe, esq.; Henwond, Lacon Lambe, esq.; Newton, T. Phillips, esq.; Hurst, J. H. Phillpots, esq. and Devereux Won- ton, — Berington, esq. 2m. beyond Weobley, on the 1 . is Sarusfield court, '"ORD. 64 i John Webb Weston, esq. A road lm. beyond Weobley, to the r. is to Leom¬ inster, 8 m.; on the 1. to Hay 13m.) Bond’s- green, 4m.; Lyon’s-Hall, l£m.; Fentress, l jm Cross the Arrow, where is a road to Leominster, 11m.; Kington, ljirt. Another road to Kington, is by White- cross, 1 r,m . King’s-Acre, Jm. ; Shelton Sugwas, lm. (Jm. from this place, on the 1 . of the road, at Kenchester, is the site of a roman station. On the 1. to the Hay, 18jm.) Credenhill, l|m.; here is the Mag¬ na Castra of the Romans, at the foot of which is a house of Richard Ecklcys, esq. Mnnsel Lacy, lm. 7f. (on the r. major Price; lm. beyond is Foxley, Uvedale Price, esq. The house is finely situated, and contains some excellent pictures; among others, from the first masters, is a beautiful head of old Parr, by Reubens, in high preservation. The grounds and plan¬ tations, which are very extensive, display the peculiar taste of the scientific proprie¬ tor, and attract universal admiration. A charming ride, of nearly two miles in ex¬ tent, through a wood of fine oaks, leads to the point of a hill called Lady Lift, where the view expands in a delightful manner. To the n-e. it looks over Here¬ fordshire, to the Clee-hills in Shropshire, and the Malvern-hills in Worcestershire; and, to the s-w. the famous St. Michael’s Mount, in Monmouthshire, is a fine ob¬ ject, with the Hatteral-Hills, and the Bre¬ con and Radnorshire mountains, in the back-ground. Yuzer, lm. 7f.; Norton Canon, 7f. ; Eccles Green, lm.3f.; (about lm. on the r. is Sarnsjield house, John Webb Weston, esq.; and on the 1. at Keu- nersley Castle, — Parkinson, esq.; and at Kcnnersley, rev. J. Clutton. 1 7 )m. be¬ yond Eccles-green, is the road to Leomin¬ ster, 10m.; on the 1. to the Hay 13m.) Wontan, 3m. 2 m. on the 1. is Newport, house, lion. Andrew Foley,) Lyon's-hall, 3m. 3f. ( 2 m. on the r. is Eywood-house, and park, earl of Oxford, and l|m. on the r. of Eywood house, is Titlcy-courl, W. Greenly, esq. Near Kington on the 1. is a road to the Hay, 14gm.) Cross the Ar¬ row river to Kincton, 2m. 7f. On this approach the town with its church appears upon an eminence, surrounded with cul¬ tivated hills. To Hay. l|-m. on the r. is the road to Weobley, 101m. King's-ucre, where is Atchenfield-house, from whence to King- 6i5 HEREFORD. HOLT. 640 ton, on the r. (‘ 2 m. beyond on the 1. is The Ware, —Parry, esq.; on the r. of which is Kenchester, once a roman sta¬ tion ; 1. of the Ware is Cannon’s-bridge, capt. Lane.) Swan’s-hill, 2f. Strelton Sug- was, 14m. Bridge-sollers; 25 m. Byford, lm. (on r. see Gamons, Geers Cotterel, esq. 2m. on the 1. of Byford is Tiberton, mrs. Bridges.) Partway, Inn, Three Horse¬ shoes, l£m. (on 1. side of the Wye, is Moccas-court, sir George Cornwall, bait ) Stanton, lm. Hanmer’s-cross, )m. (on the 1. is the road to Hay, through Bredwar- dine, 9)m.) Red-lay, 5 m. Lellon, Inn, the Swan, ^m. Letlon-court, John l'recman, esq. Willersley, church, lm. 7f. Winf or ton, lm. Stow, jm. Whitney, Whitney-court, mrs. Dew. (on the r. to Kington, 85 m.) Cross the Wye to Clifford, and Castle, 2m. If. (seep. 613.) Hay, 2jm. Anoth¬ er Road. To Hanmer’s-cross, as above, ]0Jm. Cross the Wye to Bredwardine, (Cornwall-arms) lm. 5f, Marbridge, 2£m. Clifford, I 5 I 11 . Pen y Bank, 7f. .Hardwick-green, 3f. Hardwick , (Unicorn) 5 m. John Stalard, esq. (lm. beyond on the r. is The Moore, — Pcnoyre, esq.) Hay, 2£m. To Leominster. Holmer, lm. 5f. Mor¬ ion on Lugg, J. Keysall, esq. 2£m. Wel¬ lington, Inn, King’s-arms, l)m. Hopc-un- der-Dinmore, 3m. Ascending the hill, on the 1. is Burghope, —Turberville, esq.; beyond which see at Dinmore, R. S. Flem¬ ing, esq. lm. on the 1. ol Hope is Winslcy, Thomas Berrington, esq. on the r. lm. is Hamplon-courl, R. Arkwright, esq. Whar¬ ton, l 2m. If. Cross ihe Arrow river, near Broadup , — Edwards, esq. Leominster, ‘4m. To Abergavenny, cross the Wye river, to Belmont, lm. The Golden Post, 2m. (on the 1. Haywood, and the Lodge Forest.) Goose-Pool, £ 111 . Allensmoor, £m. Three Horse-shoes, 1 )m- Willock’s-bridge, Jm. (On the r. Collett’s Park.) l)cvc- renx, 2m. Trefough, the rev. R. Syntonds, lm. Wormbridgc, C. B. Clive, esq. J 111 . Howton, lm. Kendcnhurcli, lm. Pontrilas, Henry Shiffner, esq. |m. Cross the Min¬ now river, at Langua-bridge. Craig Cute, 2Jm. On the r. t ampston mountain. Camp- ston-house, lm. Llanvihangell Cricorney, 2Jm. On the r. rises the Brynaro, and be¬ yond the Sugar-loaf-mountain, on the 1. the Skirridfawr, and further on the r. the Der¬ ry and Rolbcn. On the l. pass the White- house, and Llandelo Bcrtho’.ly, to Abir- avenny, 4Jm. To Monmouth, 18j miles. — Abergavenny, 24 ) miles. — The Wye, Warner. — Ross, Hi miles. — Gloucester, through Ledbury, 32) miles. — Hay, 21 miles. — Presteign, 26 miles, Lipscomb. — Kington, 20 miles. — Ledbury, 16 miles. — Bromyard, 14 miles. — Leominster, 13 miles. — Worcester, 21^ miles. yy//E//////////x///y A/ From Wrexham, S| miles, Bingley. - Chester, 10 miles, Pennant. HOLT, an obscure little village, on the w. bank of the Dee, in Denbighshire, was once a market town and a place of consequence. Yet it is, even in it’s de¬ generate state, governed by a mayor and two bailiffs. The two villages of Hoj-t and Furnham or Farndon, are separated only by the river and communicate by a bridge of 10 arches, built in 1345. The Dee, at this place, divides England from Wales, Farndon being in Cheshire and Holt in Denbighshire. There is nothing remarkable in the scenery of tins neigh¬ bourhood. The Castle was placed on a solid rock close to the river, but scarcely any remains of it are visible. It was defended on 3 sides by a trench, 40 or 50 yards wide. Camden calls a situa¬ tion on the opposite side of the river the ancient Castrum Leonis. Holt Castle was garrisoned in favour of Charles 1, in 1643, but beseiged by the parliament in 1645, and with others entirely demolished. The lordship now belongs to the crown, under the direction of a steward. The in¬ habitants of Holt contribute with those of Ruthin and Denbigh in sending one mem¬ ber to parliament. The Church or Chapel is built of red stone, and seems ancient. On leaving Holt, mr. Pennant returned over the bridge ; and passing along 1 por¬ tion of Cheshire, with a pleasing view of Broxton Hills upon the left, reached the site of Shockluch castle, of which nothing except a foss marks the place. Upon the opposite side of the road is a vast mount, commanding an extensive view. At a short distance is Maelor Saesneg, a hundred of Flintshire, disjoined from the principal part of the county. Broughton is a vener- 647 HOLT. HOLYHEAD. 649 able wooden house, where some paint- frigs are yet existing, by eminent masters. At the back of this building lies the noted common of Threap-woocl, from time im¬ memorial a place of refuge for the sex who were desirous of being freed from the consequences which the law inflicts upon illicit love. Numbers of houses were scattered over the common for their re¬ ception. This tract was formerly extra- parochical; the inhabitants, therefore, considered themselves as beyond tire reach of law. They were at last compelled to submit but not without bloodshed. On the right of the road to Bancor lies Em- ral-hall, the seat of the Pulestons. Back to Wrexliam, 5| miles, Binglejr. To Bangor-iscoed, Smiles, Pennant. From Gwyndy, 12§ miles, Bingley. - Llanelian, 22 miles, Pennant. HOLYHEAD or Caer Cybi, the fort of Gybi. Mr. Pennant says that this person¬ age was surnamed Corineus, a son of Solo¬ mon duke of Cornwall, and pupil of Hi- larius bishop of Poitiers, about the year 380. In honour of his preceptor he called one of the head-lands of this insulated spot, St. Hilary’s, now St. Elian’s Point. Mr. Owen, the Cambrian Biographer, says he was a son of Selyv ab Geraint ab Erbin, and flourished in the 6th century. This place is partly in the cwmwd of Lly- fon, cantref of Aber Ffraw (now called the hundred of Llyfon) and partly in cwmwd of Tal y bolion, cantref of Com- maes (now called the hundred of TM y bolion) county of Anglesea: a curacy not in charge, of the certified value of 32/. patron Jesus College, Oxford. It’s popu¬ lation in 1801, was 2132. The Market Day is on Saturday. It has no Fairs. This parish contains about 3000 acres of land, of which about one half is cultivated; the other half being in general very rocky. It contists of one principal street, and several detached buildings. The peninsula on which the town is situated .being the nearest point of land towards Dublin, it lias become the resort of people who want to pass between England and Ireland. The distance is 20 leagues. This passage k considered much safer than those from Liverpool or Parkgate. This preference arises from ships being able to clear the land in a short time, in less danger of being embayed. One packet goes out every day, in the evening, as soon as the Mail- coach arrives, except Tuesday, and re" turns next morning. The omission of this day is occasioned by no mail arriving from London, but a wherry generally sails, with those who choose to go, and takes such other letters as do not come from London. The vessels employed by the post-office are remarkably stout and well constructed sloops, strongly manned, and the masters are skilful. In stormy weather packets have been kept at sea 2 or 3 days, but in favourable winds and weather the passage is performed in 9 hours, and sometimes even in 6. The Harbour is formed by the cliffs under the church yard, and a small island called Inys Cybi, upon which is placed a light. The tide, however, runs rapidly out, and the port becomes a dry harbour. An act was passed in 1809, for erecting a pier and improving the harbour. If a pier was run out to the s-e. from the Salt-house, on the s. point of the Salt Island, (within which large vessels might lie afloat) and the n. sound, and the sound of Parry’s Island, walled up, it would prevent the swell in the Harbour. This might be done at the expense of about 8000/. it would then be a safe harbour, but at pre¬ sent it is one of the rude accommodations of nature, in which the helping hand of man has not interfered. [On the 18th of December 1790, the Charlemont Packet belonging to Parkgate was lost, upon the n. point of Salt Island, when 110 persons perished, owing entirely to there not being a draught of the harbour.] A pier is now building upon the e. side of Holyhead harbour, which, when completed, will en¬ able vessels to ride in 4 fathoms water, in¬ stead of being stranded or lying aground. Previous to this, the tide had to flow three hours at spring and four at neap tides, before a ship could get out. In further aid of this plan, a new road is projected to be made quite across the country, from Cadnant Island, near Bangor Ferry, to the port, by which the distance would be re¬ duced from 25 to 18 miles, and several hills avoided. The portion from lady Stanley’s villa, to Holyhead, is completed. Upon the summit of the mountain called Pen Caer Cybi, is Caer twr, a circular building 10 feet in diameter, which mr. 650 649 HOLYHEAD. Pennant suppose* to be the remains of an ancient Pharos, or watch-tower. Upon the side of the mountain runs a long dry wall 10 feet high, in some places faced and entire. The precinct of the church¬ yard seems very ancient. The form is a parallelogram about 220 feet long and 130 broad. Three of the sides consist of walls 6 feet thick and 17 high. The 4th is open to the harbour. A Religious House is said to have been erected here, by prince Maelgwyn, the latter part of the 6 th century; but the house for canons regular, called the College, appears to have been founded by Hwfaap Cynddelw, lord of Llys Llifon, a cotemporary of Owen Gwynedd, who began his reign in 1137. This college was granted by James 1, to Francis Morris, and Francis Phillips. It afterwards became the property of Rice Gwynne, esq. who in the year 1640 trans¬ ferred the great tythes to Jesus College, Oxford, for the maintenance of two schol¬ ars and tvvo fellows. The collegiate, now the parochial Church, is a handsome embattled cruciform structure, consisting of a chancel, nave, aisles, and transept, with a square tower, surmounted by a low flat kind of spire. It was erected about the time of Edward 3. The inside of the porch and external part of the s. end of the transept are decorated with rude carvings. On the latter are the figures of a dragon, a man leading a bear, and other grotesque representations. On the pediments and battlements are cher¬ ubic heads, and on one, two figures in a supplicating posture, with this inscrip¬ tion, ‘ Sancta Kybi ora pro nobis.” There arc the remains of several chapels in this parish, namely, Capel Lochwyd, Capcl y Towyn, and Capel Gwyngenen, Capel y Gorlles. A School was estab¬ lished here in 1745, the building con¬ structed of materials taken from an an¬ cient religious building, called Llan y Gwyddel, or the Irish church. An Assembly-Room and Baths have lately been opened for public accommodation. A new Light House has been erected upon a small island, or rather protruding rock, to the w. of the Head, called the South Stack. The light is produced by Argand lamps, from an elevation of 200 feet above the level of the sea. It is visible over the whole of Caernarvon Bay. The light acting on a revolving principle, it is easily distinguishable from that upon the island of Skerries, from which it bears s-w. half w. nearly Sm. The promontory of the Head is an immense precipice of rock hollowed into magnificent caverns. One, the most remarkable, has received the vulgar name of Parliament House, acces¬ sible only by boats at half ebb tide. Grand arches of different shapes, supported by pillars exhibit an astonishing scene. This high cliff affords shelter'to innumerable birds, such as pigeons, gulls, razor bills, ravens, guillemots, cormorants, and her¬ ons. Upon the highest crags lurks the peregrine falcon, in high repute when falconry was in fashion. The eggs of this bird are sought after by epicures as a most delicious food. The prices which are of¬ fered induces poor men to follow the ad¬ venturous trade of obtaining them. In this undertaking 2 persons always engage. A strong stake is driven into the ground at some distance from the edge of the precipice, to which a rope sufficiently long is attached. Fastening the other end round his middle, taking the coil upon his arm, and laying hold with both his hands, he throws himself over the brow of the cliff, placing his feet against it’s sides, and constantly shifting his hands, he de¬ scends to the abode of the birds ; then put¬ ting his left hand into the nest, suspend¬ ing himself by the other, he secures the contents, placing the eggs in a basket which he has slung upon his back. Hav¬ ing robbed every nest within his extent of rope, he ascends by the same means to the edge of the cliff, where his partner, whose duty had been to guard the securi¬ ty of the stake, laying himself down flat upon the ground, assists him in doubling the cliff, which otherwise lie could not effect. A slip of the foot or the hand at this moment would be fatal to both. About lm. to the s-e. of Holyhead, upon a farm called Tre’rddur, are the remains of a cromlech, in rather a perfect state. There is a large vein of white Fuller’s earth, and another of yellow, on the n. side of Holyhead mountain, close to the sea, of a good quality. The Cistus guttatus is found upon sandy pastures, or the mountain Llechddu and the Ranunculus parviflorus, on gravelly soil in this neighbourhood. Mr. Pennant returned over Pont-rhyd, and along an excellent turnpike road ft) f 51 HOLYHEAD. Bancor. A little on the left is Presadd- /<’(/, formerly a seat of the Owens. To Amlwch over cross roads, 20 miles, Bingley. — Gwyndy, 12^ miles, Pennant. — Beaumaris, 26 miles. From Flint, 5| miles, Bingley ; Skrine. - NortUup, miles, Bingley. -St. Asaph, 10 miles, Aikin. - Denbigh, 15 miles, Warner. - Caerwys, 5 miles, Wyndham. - Basingwerk Abbey, In. miles, Pennant. HOLYWELL orTreffynnion, js.aplace hy far the most important in Flintshire. The numerous manufactures and lead mines in it’s vicinity, and it’s easy access to the sea, have rendered it the great mart of this part of the kingdom. The town is -spacious but irregular; it is pleasingly ■shunted oh the slope of a mountain, which ■extends nearly to the water. Many of the houses are good, and.it altogether.bears an air of considerable opulence. In 1801 it’s population amounted to 5567 inhab¬ itants, the number of houses, 1046. An admirer of the works of art may, at this iplace, find his taste amply gratified by viewing the numerous works of lead, calamine, copper, brass, and cotton. The parish Church is situated in a bottom at one end of the Lotvn, and so low that the prayer bell can be lieard only at a very lit¬ tle distance. This defect is remedied by a person, hired by the inhabitants, who has a leathern strap fastened round his neck 'at the end of which is suspended a bell of tolerable weight, and over one of his knees is buckled a cushion ; thus accout¬ red, he sets out just before the hour of prayers, and walks round the principal parts of the town, jingling the bell every time his cushioned knee comes forward. The church was erected in the year 1769, in which the columns of a former ancient fabric separate the nave from the aisles ; it appears of norman origin. It is a plain neat structure with a square tower at, the ■ w. end. Here are 2 places of worship for roman catholics, and 1 for protestant dis¬ senters. Winefred's Well, from which the name of Holy-well was given to this place, springs with vast impetuosity from a rock at the foot of a steep hill at the bot¬ tom of the town. This well is covered by a small gothic building, said to have been erected by Margaret the mother of Henry 7. Nothing can exceed the deli- IIOLYWELL. 652 cacy and elegance of the carving on the inside of this building, which forms a canopy over the well. It contained the legend of ,St. Winefred, and 7 sculptures alluding to the house of Stanley, by which it was erected ; but not at present disting¬ uishable. In a niche, opposite the en¬ trance, stood once a statue of the virgin Mary, but this has been long since destroy,- ed. The, chapel over it, which is of the same date as the other part of the build¬ ing, is private property, belonging to mr. Leo, of Llanerch, but the well in conser quence of a decree in chancery, is.open to the public at large. Persons of the catholic persuasion believe that the waters of this sacred fountain have lost none of their virtues. A pamphlet published to substantiate the supernatural character of this well, is entitled, “Authentic Docu¬ ments relative to the miraculpus cure of Winefred White, of the town of Wolver¬ hampton, at Holywell, in Flintshire, on the 28th June 1805; with observations thereon by J. M. &c.” Two festivals are kept up here, one in memory of the martyrdom of St. Winefred, pn the 22d of June, and another for her translation to heaven, on the 3d of November. The 1st Sunday after So James's day is a holiday in honour of some saints, and .is called Dydd sill y saint, or the Sunday of the saints. The chapel is now converted into a charity school. The well is an oblong square, about It? feet by 7. The water passes through an arch into a small square court; under this arch the catholics ust d to swim as an act of penance. The le¬ gendary story of the origin of this well is singular and curious. Winefred, who is said to have lived in the early part of the 7lh century, was a beautiful and devout virgin, the daughter of Thewith, a noble¬ man of these parts, and niece to St. Beuno, who having obtained from her father leave to found a church upon his possessions here, took her under his protection, in or¬ der to assist her in her religious exercises. Crudocus, tire son of king Alen, whose re¬ sidence appears to have been not far dis¬ tant, admired the beauty of her person, and resolved to make an attempt on her virtue. It is said that he made known to her his passion, on a Sunday morning, after her parents were gone to church. She made an excuse to escape from the room, and immediately ran towards the church 654 653 HOLY he overtook her, says superstition, on the descent of the bill, and enraged at his dis¬ appointment, drew his sword and struck off her head. The head rolled down the hill to the altar, at which the congrega¬ tion were kneeling, and stopped there, a clear and rapid fountain immediately gushing up. St. Beuno snatched up the head, and joined it to the body. It was, to the surprise of all present, immediately reunited, the place ot separation being only marked by a white line encircling her neck !! Cradocus dropped down upon the spot where he had committed this at- trocious act; and the legend informs us, that it is not known whether the earth opened to receive his impious corpse, or whether his master the Devil carried it away. The sides of the well were cover¬ ed with a sweet scented moss, and the stones at the bottom became tinctured with her blood. Winefred survived her decapitation about 15 years, and towards, the latter end of that time, having received the veil from St. Elerius, at Cwylhetln, in Denbighshire, died Abbess of that monas¬ tery, and was buried there, where 4 up¬ right stones are still shewn as Winefred's tomb. According to Dugdale the bones of St. Winefred were translated from Gwyiherin, to the Abbey at Shrewsbury, in 1138, by order of Robert, a monk, af¬ terwards made abbot. Sec his Life of Winefrede, 1566. The well, after her decease, became endowed with many miraculous properties. The sweet scent¬ ed moss, growing plentifully on the sides of this well is nothing more than Junger- mannia asplenoides. The supposed tinct¬ ure of her blood upon the stones at the bottom, is also a vegetable production, called Byssus jolithus. The devotees of the saint were formerly very numerous, but of late years they have fallen olf. Yet if one may judge from 7 crutches and 2 hand barrows stuck among the gothic ornaments of the roof, the well has but recently been forsaken. The quantity of water thrown up is not less than St hogs¬ heads every minute. This water has not been known to freeze, and scarcely ever varies in quantity, either in droughts or after the greatest rains. In the course of about 2m. from the first appearance of this stream to it’s confluence with the Chester channel, it is employed to put in motion the water-wheels of 1 corn-mill, 4 WELL. cotton manufactories, a copper smelting house, a brass house and foundery, a large copper smithy, a wire-mill- a calamine calcinary, and other machinery. It has lit¬ tle more than a mile to run before it arrives at the sea, yet 1 1 mills are put in motion by it, 3 of which are placed abreast. Pro¬ ceeding along the road by the side of the stream for about a mile and crossing the Marsh to the right, Basincwerk Abbey (or Green field) appears in a meadow on an eminence just above.—Bingley. In hedges near Holywell, grows the Cam¬ panula latifolia; upon calcareous ground between this place and Rhvddlan, the Gcntiana amarclla ; on the road sides, 3 miles on the way to Rhyddlan, G. campes- tris, with the former species; on the side of the hiH by the road from the well to the coast, Chlora perfoliata; upon the. road side to St. Asaph common, Arcnaria verna; by the road side midway from Llanerch bridge, and Demeirehion, Se- necio tenuifolis. The first Inns at Holywell are the White Horse, and Red Lion. The large mining concern called the Holywell level, commenced in the year 1773, under leases granted to a company. After a great expenditure, it was carried on for a long time with little hopes of a renumeration, for after having excavated the rock, composed of shale, chert, and limestone to the extent of COO yards, the workmen met with a rich vein, but inadequate to the expense incurred; lat¬ terly they have been more successful. The level is carried horizontally into the hill, forming a drain to the work and a canal for conveying the on . This sub- terrene passage upwards of lm.in extent, well deserves a visit. The caverns, glim¬ mering lights, casting a sombre shade, the hollow sounds of air, and explosions in blasting the rock form an uncommon com¬ bination. The produce o( Chertz or Pct- rosilex, is ground for the potteries ; the lead ore is of 2 kinds, i.e. cubic or dice ore, used for glazing earthen ware, and the white or steel grained ore, which contains a portion of silver ; calamine, and ore of zinc, which, mixed with copper, forms brass; Blende, another species of zinc ore, is combined with pyrites, or iron sulphur commixed. Sometimes lead ore fetches from 13 to 15/. a ton, at otlxrs not more than 7 or 8. The large corn- 656 655 HOLYWELL. HOPE. mill at the head of the stream, was erected in 1737, the old cotton-mill in 1785, and the crescent cotton-mill in 1790. The Brass Battery Mills were built in 1765, and a Brass Smelting House about the same time. The copper and brass works near the town and upon the stream from the well are most interesting. They belong to the Angelsea companies, and are the continuation of the processes at Parys mountain. The manufacture of brass forms a distinct operation in these vast and various concerns. The calamine employ¬ ed is received raw from the mines. These works are superintended by mr. Donbav- 3nd. The articles of most importance ex¬ ported from these works are, Copper- sheets and nails for sheathing ships ; Cop¬ per-bolts, for building ships ; Copper and brass wire; Copper-plates for various pur¬ poses, many of them beautifully polished ; Manillas, Bracelets, aud a vast variety of other small articles for use or ornament, are exported to Africa. Copper and brass pans, some of them of vast size, used at home; others are sent to Africa, where they are employed in making salt from the sea-water, by evaporation in the sun. When mr. Warner visited this place, he inspected, (through the influence of mr. Th-r-by, to whom he had a letter of intro¬ duction,) the great cotton work, the brass works, the copper mills, the wire mills, and lead mine ; of which he gives par¬ ticular descriptions in vol. 2 of his “Walks.” The first mill for batter¬ ing copper and making brass was erected by a trading company from Warrington, in in the year 1766. In digging for laying the foundations of the vast build¬ ings belonging to the Green field copper and brass company, a roman hypocaust was discovered. It is rcrqarkable that water-wheels of wood in the Holywell stream soon perish ; what usually lasts 50 years, lasts only 12; red deal answered the purpose better, but iron wheels were superior to every thing. [See Beauties of Eng. xvii, 722.] Near Holywell is Downing the seat of the late Thomas Pennant, esq. beautifully situated among woods. Bingley has given an excellent memoir of mr. Pennant in his Tour, vol. 1, page 59 to 72. The road from Holywell to St. Asaph is uneven but pleasant, and some consid¬ erable lead-mines lie at the distance of lm. At 2§ miles on this road, appears on the right, an ancient circular building, in form something like a wind-mill, which stands on the summit of a hill, supposed to have been a Roman light-house, con¬ structed to direct the navigators to and from Deva, along the difficult channel of Seteia Portus, the estuary of the Dee. At the turnpike gate, is a road on the r. to Mostyn, 6m.; on the 1. to Denbigh, 12m. Holywell race course lies on the 1. On the r. is Downing, David Pennant, esq.; about ^m. further is Upper Downing, Thos. Thomas, esq.; and lm. beyond, near the sea side, is Moshjn-hall, sir Thomas Mos¬ tyn, bart. Brick-kiln, where is a turnpike gate, 5|m. (on the 1. to Denbigh, 7m.) Here the traveller descends into the vale of Clwyd ; at the distance of7^m. is an ex¬ tensive prospect. St. Asaph lies in front. Rhyddlan Castle on the right. Denbigh more remote on the left. Several seats are beautifully scattered, upon the sides of this vale; among which lord Bagot’s and lord Kirkwall's are the most conspicuous. On the 1. lies Llanerch-park, — Leo, esq. and IVic/cfawr, — Lloyd, esq. Near St. Asaphs cross the Clwyd river, which runs from Ruthin on the 1. and on the r. to the sea. The road to Flint is very uninterest¬ ing, compared with the prevailing features of picturesque scenery with which the principality abounds. On the 1. however, soon after quitting Holywell is Bagillt- Hall, formerly a seat of Paul Panton esq. standing upon a slope amidst hanging- woods. The house came to the Pantons, by a progenitor of the present possessor marrying the heiress of Edward Griffiths, esq. To Basingwerk Abbey, lg miles, Bingley; Wynd- ham; Skrine. — St. Asaph, 10 miles, Bingley; Pennant. — Denbigh, 14 miles, Aikin. — Flint, by Downing, 10 miles, Warner. — Flint, 7 miles, Wymlham; Pennaut. — Mold, 9k miles. — Caerwys, 4) miles. a/ /yyy /y yyyy yy yyyyyy/yyyyyyyyyy^yy^TAA From Caergwrle, 1 mile, Pennant. HOPE is a small village of Flintshire, situated near Caergwrle on the road to Mold. The ground in this neighbourhood is rather hilly, but the vallies are fertile in corn and grass. Caergwrle and Hope form conjointly a prescriptive borough, 657 HOPE. 658 which with■ "Flint sends one member to troites arborescens, (the Asterias caput parliament. The name Cacr-gawr-lle (the camp of the gigantic legion) seems to indicate that it was once occupied by the romans. In further confirmation of this conjecture, a roman hypocaust was dis¬ covered here by a gardener while digging. It’s dimensions were 5 ells long, 4 broad, and about £ an ell high; encompassed with walls hewn out of the rock. The floor was of brick set in mortar ; the roof was supported with brick pillars. Some of the tiles were inscribed Legio XX. Large beds of iron scoria, have been dis¬ covered near Caer Estyn; and the vestiges of 2 roads, one in a direction for Hawar- den, and the other tending towards Mold, are still traceable in several places. Hence Caergwrle appears to have been one of the outposts to the grand station Deva. Upon the summit of a lofty rock, isolated from the surrounding land, and precipitous on one side, are the remains of a Castle, but in what period or by whom built has not been ascertained. In the reign of Owen Gwynedd it formed part of the possessions of a chieftain named Gryffydd Maelor. Edward 1 made a grant of it to prince David. The king after¬ wards gave it to his consort Eleanor; who rested here on her journey to Caernarvon, whence the name was changed to Queen Hope. While the king and queen were there, the castle was either accidentally or by design, set on fire, and the interior burnt. In 1307 this castle and manor were granted to John de Cromwell, on condi¬ tion that he repaired the fortress. It was defended by a deep fossa, excavated out of the solid strata. It’s present remains consist of a mutilated circular tower, and a few fragments of walls. Nearly the whole of this rock is composed of Brescia, or excessively coarse grit. Upon an op¬ posite elevation is the british post called Caer Estyn , formed of one ditch and ram¬ part. The little valley between narrows so as to leave not much more space than is sufficient to allow the Alyn to flow through it’s romantic track. In the vale below the country opens, and at Gresford the river expands. The adjacent hills consist of limestone, which is burnt upon the spot and carried into Cheshire. In the overlay of earth are numerous organic bodies, called Encrochi and Astroites. The uncommon species denominated As- Medusas of Linnaeus) or arborescent sea star, has been found here. Upon the demesne called Rhyddyn, almost close to the river Alyn are two springs strongly impregnated with muriate of soda, re¬ sembling those of the celebrated fountain of Barrowdale near Keswick. Scorbutic patients formerly much frequented these springs, taking from one to two quarts a day. If boiled to half the quantity, they act as a powerful cathartic, often produc¬ ing nausea. In small doses they are dieuretic. They are serviceable in most cutaneous affections, and in some obstin¬ ate chronic disorders, as elephantiasis and scrophula, &c. Here is a fine old bridge over the river Alyn, whence, may be had a complete view of the village. It’s situation forms a slope to the river, and has 3 broad parallel streets, intersect¬ ed by 3 others at right angles. In the Church arc 2 mural monuments, one de¬ corated with 2 kneeling figures. Anoth¬ er commemorates sir John Trevor, knt. the conquerer of the boasted invincible armada, and comptroller of the navy in the time of Eliz. and James 1. The Char¬ ter of this place comprehends Caergwrle, first granted by the black Prince at Ches¬ ter, 1351, by which authority the constable of the castle is bound to choose 2 bailiffs, on Michaelmas day. A Roman Road lies from the village in the direction to¬ wards Mold, and is visible in the fields on this side Plas-Teg, with an artificial mount, close to it’s course. On the road from Caergwrle to Mold, reach Plas Teg, 2m. on the 1. built for sir John Trevor, in 1610, some say by Inigo Jones, an architect of much celebri¬ ty in the reign of Charles 1, while others maintain that the style is not Inigo's. The building exhibits great regularity with a portion of grandeur arising from simplicity of design. A bold centre is presented, 45 feet in length. Each angle is flanked by a square tower. A little further, on the opposite banks of the Alyn is Hearls- heath-Hall, beautifully placed upon a gentle slope, the possession of Guillym Lloyd IVardle, esq. It is a large hand¬ some modern square mansion with three fronts, and surrounded by fine plantations. Pont Bleuddin, lm. Leeswood, l|m. Plas Habryn, lm. On the 1. Jm. Trebeirdd. Mold, £m. 560 :,!) KIDWELLY. Bjck to Mold, 6$ miles, Pennant. From Llanelly, 6 miles, Evans ; Skrine. - Llanstephan, 7 miles, Malkin. -Caermartiien, 7 miles, Malkin- KIDWELLY, or Cathweli, (i. e.Cattae leans ; because Leland says Cattus used here to make his bed in an oak) or Cyd- weli, (perhaps from cyd, a junction ; and vvyl, a flow,) in Caermarthenshire, is a neat regularly built town, seated in a nar¬ row well-wooded valley. It is divided into what is called the Old and New Towns, separated by a bridge over the Gw'endraeth. The old town, standing between the 2 rivers Gwandraeth vawr, and vychan, is of great antiquity. It had anciently strong walls, and 3 gates, which are now much delapidatcd. The modern Church, dedicated to our Lady, has a con¬ spicuous spire. It contains nothing very ancient, except the sepulchral effigy of a priest, not long since dug up, with a nearly obliterated inscription. Over the southern entrance into the church is a small figure of the Virgin Mary. In the 16th century there was a Priory of black monks, near the church. The castle forms a noble object, adjoining the ruins of old K'dwelly upon the opposite hank of the Gwendraeth vychan river. Leland says, “ the old town is prettily waullid, and hath hard by the waul a Castel; the old town is near al desolated, but the castel is meately well kept up.” This descrip¬ tion applies very well to the present ap¬ pearance of the place; for though the castle be uninhabited, it continues toler¬ ably entire. The gateway is very fine, and the whole a magnificent remain. This fortress was built, as some say, soon after the conquest by Maurice de Londres, one of the 12 norman knights who conquered Glamorganshire; and, after undergoing the usual vicissitudes of seiges, partial de¬ molition, and different masters, fell to the crown of England and was lately the pro¬ perty of rnr. Vaughan, of Golden grove; now that of his heir, lord Cawdor. Ac¬ cording to Caradoc, it was built in the year 1189, by Rhys, prince of S. Wales. A person in the town keeps the key of a small door in the back part of the castle, through which strangers are admitted. Some of the principal towers still retain their arched roofs of stone. The prospects from the battlements of the castle are un¬ commonly fine. At the foot of the castle Hows Gwendraeth vychan. To the south¬ ward lies the sea. On the opposite side of the river appears the town of Kidwelly. There is a handsome stone bridge across the river. As a port this place is a very indifferent one, owing to the harbour be¬ ing choaked with sands, but lord Cawdor is making considerable improvements. According to Dugdale, there was former¬ ly here a priory of Benedictine monks, founded by Roger bishop of Salisbury, about 1130. Inn. The Pelican. From Kidwelly mr. Evans made an ex¬ cursion up the vales of Gwendraeth Vawr and Vychan. These rivers have their sources in the common of Eskenning. The land is various, but in the vale of Gwendraeth Vychan, for the most part it consists of rab, sand, and loam, studded with fertile farms: while the soil of Gwendraeth Vawr, especially on the east¬ ern side, is principally a yellow ochreous clay, lying over coal and iron. The latter river rises in a hill called Mynnydd Vawr, and a small pool in a moor beneath takes the name of Llyn Tcgwyn. The hill in which the former rises is Mynnydd Vych¬ an, where there is an opening into which persons formerly walked. Near this are the traces of Lie’ Carreg, an isolated rock ; and not far from it another, called Craig y Dinas: between the two, it is said, there was once a town. Three miles northward, upon another isolated and inaccessible rock, stand the rugged ruins of Carreg Cen- nin Castle, at the foot of which flows the stream whence the fortress derives it’s name. A well which supplied the garri¬ son with water, is said, by Gyraldus, to ebb and flow with the sea. Descending the river about 3 miles, it is joined by a powerful brook called Tresgirth. At the head of this, distant a mile, is a hole or cave, where people during Whitsuntide, walk In this part of the country the farms are in a slovenly condition. Ex¬ ceptions however must be made ; among these may be mentioned mr. Bevan of l’cngay, and mr. Davis of Lachtony. The latter gentleman cultivates 10 acres of what is called French furze, which lie propagates by seed ; with these whins, which he cuts every year, lie keeps his whole team, and riding horses over the efii KIDWELLY. winter: he gives it mixed with hay to his horned cattle. The produce per acre is from 12 to 15 tons weight. It is bruised with a short pole armed at the lower end with cross irons, cutting and bruising at the same time. A man will bruise 36 bushels per day, at the price of a halfpen¬ ny each. A more expeditious way is by a mill, formed qf $ cylinders. This furze or whin in some parts of the country grows to ID or 12 feet high, and it’s stems are often cut for fuel. It is substituted in some places for fences instead of haw¬ thorn. The thorns of the dwarf furze are triangular and smooth, except at the base, appearing to proceed Irom the bark ; the pods small and short, without down. Tile French furze has thorns from a real extension of the stem, quite straight, wool¬ ly. twice or thrice as long as the leaves ; pods thick and short, covered with a hoary whitish down. The leaves of the latter awl-shaped, of the former fringed. The latter flowers in May, the former in au¬ tumn with the heath. In the parish of J .landyvaefpg near Gelli, mr. Evans found Hypericum androsxmum, Salvia verbena- ca, Asplc-nium septentrionale; and near upland, Sohdago virgaurea. On the road side towards Caermarthen, Lythrum sa- licaria, L. hysopifolia, and Kumulus lu- pujus. Passing the small village of Si. Is/imaela ferry is crossed at the mouth of the Tovvy to Llanstkphan Castle. On the shore was found Eryngium mariti- mum, Glaux maritima, and Arenaria ru¬ bra—J. Evans. The Kidwelly Ca¬ nal is the private property of the two co¬ heiresses of a mr. Keymer, who cut this communication at his private expense, to his coal-mines and lime stone w orks, in his own estate only. The road to Caermarthen lies on a steep woody bank, above the romantic < ourse of Kidwelly river; but it soon deviates to the superior attractions of the Tcivi, following which expansive water and verdant accompaniments over a long antique bridge arrive at Caermarthen. This river is famed for the fine salmon it affords. The road to Llanelly lies over the marshy flat through which the canal is carried to the coal-works. After crossing Shudder-bridge, we begin to mount I'enhree mu, whence the surrounding scenery is viewed to the greatest advantage. Caer- KILGERRAN. 6o2 marthen Bay, and Bristol Channel, to the opposite shores of Devonshire, compose the marine prospect; while the interior is marked by considerable inequalities. This hill is the highest in the s. of Caer- marthenshire. To Caermarthen, 10 miles, Bingley. — Llanelly, Smiles, Malkin. — Llanstephan Castle, 4 miles, Evans; Skiiuc. FromCaerdigan,4miles, Barber, Malkin, Evans; Fkiine; Warner. -Narhertb, 20 miles, Wvndham. -- Tenby, Fenton. KILGERRAN, or Cilgcran, in Pem¬ brokeshire, consists of one irregular and ill-built street', straggling at least half a mile from the church. It is said that the church formerly stood in the centre of the tow'n. It is inhabited by labouring farm¬ ers and fishermen; yet to this assertion must be excepted the curate’s little man¬ sion, a cottage completely wooded with ivy. It is situated upon the river Teivy at the foot of a steep hill. This ancient village is governed by a portrieve and bailiffs. Fairs. Aug. 21, Nov. 12. It’s Castle crowns, with truly picturesque grandeur the summit of a naked rock which rises proudly from the bed of the river Teivy. The position of Kilgerran Castle is nearly self defended on all sides; but on the isthmus which con¬ nects the projecting rock with the main land, two ponderous round towers seem to have formerly defied the assault of war, as they now do that of pilfering dilapida¬ tion. The broken w-alls, watch-tow ers, and apartments which compose the minor parts of this fortress, bespeak that it has been of no great extent, nor highly orna¬ mented ; yet the scattered relics, various¬ ly interwoven with ivy, offer an appear¬ ance from most points of view' highly im¬ posing and grand. It had once another ballium or ward flanked with bastions, the foundation of which may be clearly traced. The inner ward is extensive, in¬ volving the keep and state apartments. The surrounding avenues leading from the village to the rastle are called Pum- porth, the 5 gates there, having formed that number of entrances, besides a sallyport opening on the e. side of the cape it occu¬ pies The foundation of the castle is un¬ certain, and the styles of different ages 663 KILGERRAN. 664 appear throughout the building. Accord¬ ing to Carradoc, this fortress was erected about the year 1223, when Marshall earl of Striguil (Chepstow) vanquished the Welch under their prince GryfTydd, and gained an undisputed footing in these parts.—J. T. Barber. “ The beau¬ tiful scenery around this castle,” says sir Richard Hoare, “ stands unequalled in S. Wales, andean only be rivalled by that of Conwy in N. Wales ; but it must be visit¬ ed by water, down the river, not by land. Having skirted the sides of a long and ex¬ tensive marsh, a sudden bend of the river contracting its channel, conducts us into a narrow pass, surrounded by a perpendic¬ ular rampart of wood and rock, with steep and precipitate banks of oak and copse wood, feathering down to the water’s edge : the first view we catch of the cas¬ tle, at a distance, between a perspective range of well-wooded hills, is very strik¬ ing; and what, on a nearer approach, it may lose in picturesque beauty, it certain¬ ly gains in grandeur : the proud walls of a large castle appear towering full in front; the hill on which they stand, is rather destitute of wood, but boldly broken with projecting rocks; and, per¬ haps, the general effect of the landscape may not lose by this contrast to the rich surrounding scenery of wood. I have never seen ruins more happily combined with rocks, wood, and water; a more pleasing composition, or a more cap¬ tivating landscape, which is animated by the numerous coracles employed in catching salmon.” The church of Kil- gerran, as seen from the bottom of the hill upon which it stands, forms a very inter¬ esting subject for the pencil; but there is nothing within or without, worthy of par¬ ticular attention, except a beautiful frag¬ ment of the rood loft yet remaining. In a romantic hollow, a mile or two higher, near the village of Kenarth or Carnarth mawr, the ancient residence of St. Ludoc; in Giraldus’s time the church, dedicated to this saint, the mill, the bridge, salmon- leap, and orchard, with a delightful gar¬ den, all stood together upon a small plot of ground; and he remarks that the Teivi has a singular particularity, being the only river in Wales, or even in England, which has beavers, and he enters into a long des¬ cription of the animal, it’s habits, &c. Sir Richard Hoare, who is the latest com¬ mentator on Giraldus, think* that avanc or afange is a local name for the common otter, an animal exceedingly well known j but it is not likely that Giraldus would have been so minute in his description of the beaver if it had been as common. The Teivy falls over a ledge of rock in one bold sheet, tho’ not more than 6 feet in depth, forming a salmon-leap, generally considered the most remarkable in Wales. Their manner of fishing is curious. The fisherman is seated in a kind of canoe, cal¬ led a coracle, formed of basket-work of thin lathes, covered with a horse’s hide, or a well pitched piece of sail-cloth. The vessel is nearly oval, about 4| feet long and 3 wide, yet so light as to be easily carried upon the shoulders. In this skiff he steers his way with a paddle in one hand, while with the other he manages the net, hold¬ ing the line between his teeth. While in the neighbourhood of Cilgerran, mr. Fenton engaged, in company with John Hammet, esq. of Castle Maelgwn, to make a visit to the mountains for the pur¬ pose of examining some of the ancient sepulchres. Mr. Hammet having employ¬ ed a number of labourers, they, with a sumpter cart set out with their directors. Vrenny vaxr, the most easterly of the Pembrokeshire hills, was destined for the scene of demolition. Had they had no other pursuit, they found that the en¬ chanting prospect which this eminence commands would have superabundantly repaid the toil. The Tumulus on which the attack was made occured the first af¬ ter the mid-acclivity of the mountain had been gained. It’s dimensions might be 30 feet in diameter and about 8 feet 8 inches high. A large section was made, and, at the depth of 2 feet, marks of crema¬ tion appeared. At 2g feet further, sever¬ al flat stones were tiled one over the other, underneath was a receptacle of the size and shape of a common country oven, 2 feet in diameter and 2 in depth; being opened, it was found full of water; there was a coarse flag at bottom, and similar stones forming the sides. After lading out the water, fragments appeared of a large urn of very rude pottery, and half burnt bones, intermixed with a thick black sediment, apparently decomposed charcoal. This substance was Carefully searched, expecting that it contained beads, amulets, bone utensils, arrow 6G5 KILGERRAN. 66G heads, or other relics, which generally accompany such interments upon the downs of Wiltshire, but nothing of this kind was discovered. Two other tumuli nearer the summit were intersected, but no discovery made; they seemed to have been ransacked before. The monarch barrow upon the summit of the mountain seemed to have shared the fate of those just mentioned; it had moreover been converted into a beacon. The party re¬ turned to Castle Maelgwn by a different rout across a delightful vale. A water excursion was next engaged in. The tide concurred, a barge was manned and well provisioned. The scenes, tho’ before examined, appeared to have put on new beauties. Every reach produced a new variety of ruin, rock, or wood. Pas¬ sing the lofty turrets of Cilgerran, and doubling a little craggy projection, the stupendous object is intercepted, but in the winding progress of a mile, this ruin is alternately seen and lost, changing it’s shape from different positions. A little further on, where a large slate quarry on each side the river marks the limits of it’s more intricate and narrow channel, the scene suddenly shifts, and a wide expand¬ ed reach opens, dotted with patches of the uncovered marsh, terminated by the bridge and town of Cardican. Passing the shoot of Cardigan bridge, land a little way below, to examine the small remains of Si. Dogmael’s Abbey, which, if we may judge by the few fine specimens of arches and ornamental mouldings in the remnant of the choir, as well as foundations and other fragments of buildings, was an extensive and splendid establishment. The refectory is a curious structure now used as a barn. It was once lighted by handsome end and side windows of fine tracery. In the time of Elizabeth St. Dogmacl's was deem¬ ed a corporation and had 105 houses. It was governed by a portrieve, and William Bradshaw, was lord thereof. His mansion- house was the Abbey. The present village is large and straggling, chiefly inhabited by fishermen, with little gardens and orch¬ ards attached to their cottages. A lit¬ tle e. of St. Dogmael’s stands Plus newydd, the creation of sir Watkin Lewis, as a tem¬ porary residence. It commands a most delightful view of the ruined abbey, the estuary of the Teivy and the town of Car¬ digan. (Quitting this retreat, our voyagers re-embarked, falling down with the ebb assisted by oars, to the mouth of the estuary, landing upon firm sand on the n. side of the river. The coast at this place contains uncommonly fine rock scenery, capable of being leisurally ex¬ plored. It consists of a long range of stu¬ pendously high cliffs, with a most diver¬ sified outline, presenting several lofty cathedral-like arches. The estuary (like all from Liverpool to Milford, except Fishguard) is obstructed and rendered dangerous by shifting sand called a bar. The flood tide did not favour a return, carriages and horses were therefore suppli¬ ed from Castle Maelgwn. Mr. Fen¬ ton concerted another excursion, i. e. the whole range of the Presselly, with the plain at it’s foot to the n. The road for a few miles was the same as that before described to Vrenny vawr ; but after pas¬ sing the base of that mountain, and cros¬ sing a heath, upon which are several tu¬ muli,turn to the r. and fall in with traces of the old roman road, which leads over the highest ridge of the Presselly hills. It passes close to a carnedd which seems to have been plundered. Hence by a considerable ascent reach the top of Mod Trygarn, crowned with an extensive en¬ campment, including within it’s area 3 immense earns. To the e. are 3 lines of loose stone ramparts, on the n. ‘2; on the s. 2; on the w. only one. Patches of bog¬ gy turbury occur in this progress, and in¬ sulated rocky portions. In the shelter of one are scattered remains of druidic work. A few of the more elevated points of this mountain ridge terminate in conical heaps of stones. The roman road is most¬ ly overgrown, or lost in the sponginess of the soil. Mr. Fenton says he may challenge the whole kingdom to furnish a view more intelligibly extensive and more interestingly diversified, than ap¬ pears from the summit of this mountain. The objects are these; the sea, with it's sinuous outline of rocky coast, like a belt; Milford-haven, like a cluster of small lakes; Lundy ; the coast of Devon ; some¬ times, the Wicklow hills in Ireland. The lowland country stretching from the base of this mountain, is richly cultivated, and lies like a map beneath. At the base of this mountain are some detached rocks, upon one is an agger of loose stones, as upon Moel Trygarn, to which it might 6G7 KI LG have served as an outpost, lying directly under it. From the neighbour hood of Cilgerran, tnr. Fenton next made an ex¬ cursion in the hundred of Cemaes, a divi¬ sion of the county conquered hy a nor- mon knight, with his own force. Martin de Turrihus, bent on conquest, equipped a considerable armament and put to sea, when after coasting the island he was tempted by the clear and open bay of Fishguard to land there, and erected his standard, upon the height of Cwullwyn. The natives made a stand against lnm at Morvill, where a bloody skirmish took place. lie was opposed at Meliney, Whitechurch, and Nantgwyn, yet main¬ tained successlul dominion, till goaded by Grufydd ap Rhys, during the whole of his reign and part of the reign of his son. The marriage of VVm. Martin with a daugh¬ ter of Lord Rhys induced at length a mu¬ tual convention. The lord had his prin¬ cipal residence at Newport castle. Leav¬ ing the range of the Presselly hills to the 1. proceed on the flat road at the base, past Tavern y Bwncalh Jenter, and enter the parish of Whitechurch. The church has been lately rebuilt, and confirms the ap¬ pellation of white, which it bears, being very neat and clean, a quality which can be ascribed but to few of the welsh churches. In a wood, almost opposite, is a respectable mansion called also Whit¬ church. This parish, like St. David’s, is free from adders, and remarkable for the inhabitants being expert at the scientific game of chess which they call Frisliol Tawlbwrdd ; supposed to have been in¬ stituted here by the norrnan invaders. Some consider chess as a primitive amusement, brought from the e. by the aboriginal in¬ habitants ; others refer it’s introduction to the time of Arthur, being practised in his splendid court. At the foot of Bwlch- gmjnt, called sometimes II 'indyport, (a pass over the presselly ridge) is a heathy plain, called Ccfn Diannel. Upon this spot the invader of Cemaes was met by the inhab¬ itants of the adjacent parishes. At a short distance stands the ancient mansion of Henllan Oivcn , once the property of Flow el ap Jenkin ap Rotpert of Nevern. It is now an ordinary farm house. Pursuing the great mountain road from Haverfordwest to Cardigan, cross the Nevern river at Font Cy- nan, and arrive at Eglwyserw, a small pic¬ turesque village, containing a church, a El IRAN. 668 comfortable inn, and alarge shop, supplied with articles of the most general demand. A redundant stream runs through the vil¬ lage, and sinks into a dingle prettily wooded. The church is a plain low build¬ ing without tower or any decoration. It is dedicated to St. Erw, whose festival is held Nov. 3. Half a mile n. of the village is the manor-house called Court, where David Martin, bd son of sir Win. Martin, who was bishop of St. Davids, occasionally resided. Few are the remain¬ ing vestiges of it's ancient respectability. For many years Eglwyserw had the honour of entertaining the gentlemen of the bar who attended the Carmarthen circuit an¬ nually, in their way from Piaverfordwest to Cardigan. A Fete Champetre at this place furnished sir William Jones’s muse with a subject, from which the following is an extract. How gay is the circle of friends round a table, where stately Cilgerran o’erhangs the brown dale ; where none are unwilling, and few are unable, to sing a wild song, or repeat a wild tale 1 Yet weak is our vaunt, while something we want, more sweet than the pleasure that friendship can Come, smile, damsels of Cardigan, [give: Love can alone make it blissful to live. No longer then pore over dark gothic pages, to cull a rude gibberislt from Neatheam or Brooke; leave year books and parchments to grey-bearded sages; be nature, and love, and fair woman, our book : for weak is our vaunt, while something we want, more sweet than the pleasure that learning can Come, smile, damsels of Cardigan, [give; Love can alone make it blissful to live. Admit that our labours were crown’d with full measure, and gold were the fruit of rhetorical dowers, that India supplied us with long hoarded tieasure, that Dinevor, Slebeck, and Coedsmore were our’s ; yet weak is our vaunt, while something we want, more sweet than the pleasure that riches can give. Come, smile, damsels of Cardigan, Love can alone make it blissful to live, Within the manor of Eglwyserw, the lord has a wood called Pencelly Forest, which contained in George Owen’s time about 500 acres, enclosed with quickset and pailing. Having passed this forest come to Crugiau Cemaes, a very large group of tumuli; one of them appears to have been opened.. Mr. Fenton called here on John Evans, esq. of Cluster, with whom and another friend, they rode to see Lech y dr'ibedd, the most perfect Cromlech in this county. Mr. Fenton has enriched the title page to his “ Historical Tour in Pem¬ brokeshire,” with a vignette of this cu- 669 KILGERRAN. 6 70 riosity from the elegant pencil of sir Richard Hoare. It is supported upon 3 short upright stones. The incumbent stone is about 40 feet in circumference and it’s thickness from 3 to 4 feet. At the w. end of the field pass a stone called Macn y tri thivedd, (the stone of the 8 heirs.) Glas- tir was anciently the glebe-house of the rectory of Nevern. [See it’s history, in Fenton, p. 535.] In this promontory, bounded by tbe Teivy and the Nevern, and on the w. by the sea, the principal Norman invaders settled ; their residences were thickly placed, but now degenerated to mere farm houses. In this vicinity were Trecaman, once the seat of Peverel ; Tredryssey, the family of Cole; lihvs y Bayvill, Pevcrels; Monington, (Eglwys Wythw), the Martins, the Roches, and lordofTowyn ; Moyl Grove or Malles; Hendrcv, the Lloyds. Coed Wynok is a- nother house, built in queen Elizabeth’s time by an ancestor of the present lord Kensington, the rev. Richard Edwards, chancellor of St. David’s. Hence, un¬ der the convoy of his friend, mr. Fenton examined the alum well at Treruffydd; but whether impregnated with that sub¬ stance he cannot say, but as a chalybeate it has been pronounced inferior to Tun¬ bridge water only. Thec/x>(7M, an insep¬ arable characteristic of this property in water, is here abundant. The spring is enclosed with stone and mortar, and be¬ low is a capacious bason for bathing. It is situated at the bottom of a pretty dingle, at the head of which stands the farm house. Upon the n. side observe a curi¬ ous opening in the cliff nearly circular, admitting the sea through an arch at bot¬ tom, similar to those of St. Govans, but not half so capacious. Ascend the op¬ posite hill to examine an encampment, probably danish, called Treruffydd Castle, a peninsula consisting of about one acre, the last retreat of the Scandinavian pirates. George Owen says it resembles 'lintagel Custle, in Cornwall. To the s. from this spot gain a charming view of the rich vale of Nevern, ending at Newport, with the Pembrokeshire mountains from Vrenny vavvr, till the eye in pursuing their sum¬ mits, sinks into the ocean at the bold pro¬ montory of Dinas. Proceed to Irel- lytfan, or Toadstown, a place mentioned by Giraldus Cambnensis, who relates a singular story ol a person here being de¬ stroyed by toads. The figure of a toad sculptured in black marble is introduced into a chimney-piece, which place it has occupied for several centuries. In this family every one of the present as well as former generations are upwards of (S feet high. In the cliffs not far from Voel goth, it is said a water oozes out, in taste and colour like milk and water. De¬ scend to Nevern, where, upon a high hill, appear the slight remains of the Castle, which exhibit indications of great extent and strength. On one side it was inac¬ cessible, the wall following the edge of a rocky ravine and on the others by a deep foss hewn out of the solid rock. It appears to have been a square building with a bastion at each angle. This cas¬ tle of Llanhyver seems to have been the principal palace of the reguli of Dyved ; and after the extinction of those petty dynasties, to have been considered a valuable gem, a sort of heir-loom in the S. Wales diadem, which the princes were jealous of and quick to vindicate. Tlie situation of the village of Nevern is beau¬ tiful, in the midst of rich meadows, gar¬ dens, and orchards, upon the margin of a fine river and surrounded by richly wood¬ ed hills. The church is a handsome build¬ ing, placed in a cemetery of great extent, filled with yew-trees. For the tower and probably for the greatest part of the ex¬ terior, we arc indebted to the norman era. It is dedicated to St. Byrnach who was cotemporary with St. David. In the. yard is one of those early crosses consist¬ ing of a tall shaft similar to that represent¬ ed as standing in front of Carew Castle, but more elegantly wrought. Nevern is the largest parish in the county. The ruins of a venerable old mansion, and other houses of lesser note interspersed with trees, form together a pleasing scene. This mansion was begun to be built by Howell ap Jcnkin ap Rotpcrt. Nevern was originally a chief borough, with a portreeve, 18 burbages, and had courts lor it’s government. A private gate opens hence into the village, and a permissive road, leads through charming woods to Llayngwuyr, the seat of George Bowen, esq.; a situation rendered desir¬ able by it’s aproximating advantages; on the margin of a large river, encircled by woods the gardens are excellent, andt lie demesne highly cultivated, commanding 671 KI LG ERR AN. 672 a pleasing view of Newport and it’s cas¬ tle, backed by the hoary mountain of Cam Englyn. This place fell to a norman fol¬ lower named Cole who discovered the marl in this county. Upon the other side of the river which flows under the house of Llwyngwayr, is the farm of Bury, with a richly wooded hill, which forms one of the most conspicuous features in that vale. This tenement formerly belonged to the lord of Cemaes, and was the prin¬ cipal grange belonging to the castle ; but this valuable demesne together with the castle of Newport has been alienated from the lordship. Near the water-fall of the Teivy,before mentioned, is a manufacture of iron and tinned plates, the property of sir Benja¬ min Hammet. Two or 3 miles up the river is N ewc ast l e i n Eml yn, a small irregular town, situated upon it’s banks, and graced with the venerable ruins of a castle. Thence a road of 20 miles extends through a dreary uninteresting country to Carmarthen. A more romantic and sequestered path than is traced beside the Teivy from Pont Lechryd to Llangoeclmawr, on the n. side, can scarcely be imagined. In the parish of the latter village there are several druidic monuments: one is a remarkably large cromlech ; the flat stone being 8 or 9 yards in circumference, with one edge resting on the ground. There is a smaller monument near it of the same kind, also a circle of rude stones about 12 yards round, and 5 beds of loose stones, each about 6 feet over. Llech y gowres (the stone of a giantess) in the parish of Neuadd, near Cardigan, is another very large Crom¬ lech ; and contiguous is 19 large hewn stones, which the vulgar say cannot be counted. On the road to Aeeraeron, at the poor village of Blaenporlh, on the left of the road, is a large circular area encompassed by a moat, which is most probably the re¬ mains of a British fortification. A mile or two further is a similar work, called Castel- Yndalig. It is much larger than the former but less distinct. Beginning to ascend a tract of lofty hills (leaving Pen- bryn church on the left near the sea shore) and gaining a considerable eminence an uninterrupted view over the whole sweep of the bay of Cardigan is presented. This bay, from it’s southern limit. Stumble- head near Fishguard, stretching north¬ ward, extends a vast gulph into N. Wales, and is at length terminated by Bardsey island in Caernarvonshire. The effect of this extensive display, says mr. Barber, from the great elevation which we travers¬ ed, was extremely striking; stretching from beneath us to a remote horizon, the sea exhibited a silvery surface of immense magnitude; while the shores presented an endless variety of bold advancing promon- taries, overhanging cliffs, and high swel¬ ling mountains, wild and desolate; yet here and there a stripe of green meadow appeared on a favoured slope, and a few woody plantations disclosed themselves through picturesque hollows. In the dis¬ tant boundary of Caernarvonshire, the projecting and receding hills about Pwll- helli bay were conspicuous; opposed to these, the superior magnitude of Cader- Idris arrested the attention, towering a- mong the craggy summits of the Merion¬ ethshire mountains. From the bay our view roamed over a dreary uninteresting tract of country, to a ridge of mountains, whose broken outlines mixing with the clouds, defend the entrance of N. Wales | where proudly rising above competition, the confederated mountains, forming tha pile of mighty Plinlimmon, appear in all their majesty. This road generally lies on a rocky track or turnpike, and gives the sensation of tediousness. The market town of Llanarch, consisting of half a doz¬ en huts seated in a romantic hollow, at the distance of 14 miles from Kilgerran, afford some relief. Three miles further is Aberaeron. There cannot be a more interesting object, whether viewed from the water above or below, than Kil¬ gerran Castle. The high perpendicular cliffs, with huge trees growing out of their fissures; the dense wood beneath; the bold rock, standing as an advanced guard ; the ivy-mantled ruins on it’s sum¬ mit ; and the crystal waters of the Teivy reflecting as in a mirror, the impending shades, and rolling over large fragments of rock beneath, through a narrow chasm, form a group of objects which please while they astonish.—J. Evans. The variegated walk by the side of this river, and indeed the whole scene, bears a strong resemblance to the banks of the Wye un¬ der the celebrated Piersfield; and, tho’ the current be less broad, and the rocks 673 KILGERRAN. on each side not so awfully grand, yet, the beautiful verdure of the one, and the transparent brightness of the other, make ample amends; to this, if we add the magnificentruin ofKilgerran castle, which by it’s singular contrast to the rest of the view, gives a finishing to this delicious landscape, the Teivy may justly be com¬ pared with the Wye. We met our horses at Llechryd bridge, a little below which are some large and expensive works for the purpose of making tin-plates. The beau¬ ty of the river here diminishes, and we are left to follow a miserable coasting road. The town of Llanarck consists of a few straggling cottages. After leaving a deep and shady dell on the left, we de¬ scended to Aberaeron. —J. T. Barber. As there is nothing on the turnpike road to Newport, to deserve artention, mr. Malkin recommends crossing a very wild heath, from St. Dogmaels, to the vil¬ lage of Trevithel, which is a pretty little recess, watered by a fresh stream. To Nevern the country continues dismal, but the descent to this place has something agreeable mixed with it’s wildness. Close by the church porch on the s. is a single stone of a quadrangular form, about 2 feet broad, 18 inches thick, and 13 feet high, with a cross at the top. But the most im¬ portant relic in this neighbourhood is a cromlech mentioned under Duffrin-House. [See page 412.] This is at the distance of one mile from Newport Castle. The vil¬ lage of Velindre is in a pleasing situation. Llviyn Gwair, the seat of George Bowen, esq. is in a sheltered situation, on the side of the Nevern. The castle of Newport looks well from this place. To Narberth occurs the small village of Eglwyswrw, at the distance of 6 miles from Kilgerran. Excepting the vale of Clwyd, mr. Warner thinks that this dis¬ trict exceeds every other part of Wales in good husbandry. From Eglwyswrw, a sequestered village shut out of the world by a girdle of mountains, an effort brings the traveller to the summit of Percclty mountain, which exhibits masses of rock in fantastic shapes and uncommon groupes. Here is a fine cromlech called Llcch y Flaiddast, the great stone of the female wolf. A druidic temple occurs in a field to the right, at the point where is entered the Narberth turnpike road. About 44)0 yards to the left of the road, and 23 KINGTON. 674 nearly in a straight line with the temple, stands another immense oblong stone, placed upright, called Maen y Gwyr .— Rev. R. Warner. To Aberaeron, 23 miles, Barber; Skrine. — Newport,8 miles, Malkin; Fenton. — Newcastle in Emblyn, 7 miles, Evans. — Narberth, 16 miles, Warner. — Cardigan, 3 miles, Wyndham. From Hereford, 19§ miles. -Leominster, 13 miles. -Hay, 14| miles, Lipscomb. KINGTON is a small market-town, situated on the river Arrow, and the Kington Canal which communicates with the Severn, under Bradnor Mountain, on the western borders of Herefordshire, where is carried on some clothing trade. It is built upon the site of a castle, con¬ structed for the defence of the Marches, but now extinct. The Church is a very irregular structure, with a detached tow¬ er, and a spire resembling three hollow cones one placed over the other. At the entrance of the town is a Free Grammar School, erected and endowed by a Lady Watkins. The number of inhabitants, ac¬ cording to the calculation under the act of 1801, amounted to 1421 ; the number of houses to 311. Market, Wednesday. Fairs, Wednesday before Easter, Whit- Monday, August 2, September 4. Inns. King’s-head, Oxford Arms. Upon the summit of Bradnor Mountain, are the re¬ mains of a square camp. Advancing to Presteicn, at about 2 miles distant, turn to the right for a mile, which road introduces to observation, Ey- wood, the principal mansion of Edward Harley, earl of Oxford, earl Mortimer, and baron of Wigmore. The Harleys trace their descent back to the time of king Etheldred. The present earl of Ox¬ ford who is the 5th carl of this family, suc¬ ceeded to the titles and estates on the death of his uncle, in October, 1790. This mansion is pleasingly situated, and has been considerably modernised. It con¬ tains some excellent pictures, and a large and well-selected library. The park, on the n-w, is finely wooded, including a large portion of the neighbouring emin¬ ence, the summit of which is remarkable for the variety and extent of it’s prospects. The grounds are ornamented with a fine KINGTON. KNIGHTON. 676 sheet of water, and plantations of luxuri¬ ant foliage. The parish church is Tilley, built on the site of a priory subordinate to the abbey of Tyrone in France. In the yard is a monument to the memory of Ed¬ ward Harley, esq. auditor of the impost in the reign of queen Anne, brother to the great statesman Harley. About 5 miles eastward of Kington, are the ruins of Lyon’s-Hall, of which little remains besides the fragments of the outer walls. In the early part of the reign of Henry 3, sir Stephen d’Ebroicis was lord of this manor and castle ; and the church was given bv him to the canons of saint Leonard of Pyona. In the reign of the first Edward, William, baron Tuchet, was born here, and procured from that mon¬ arch, licence of free warren for this manor, together with a grant of a market and an annual fair, both of which have been long since disused. In the succeeding reign, the castle was demolished. The late lord viscount Weymouth was owner of this estate. About mid-way on the road to Leomin¬ ster, is the small village of Pembridge, situated near the southern banks of the river Arrow. This place gave name to the ancient family of Pembruge, ancestors of the lords Chandos, of which Henry de Pembruge was high-sheriff of Hereford¬ shire, in the 42d and 43d of Henry 3 ; and sir Richard de Pembruge, who was buried in Hereford Cathedral, was knight¬ ed by Edward 3. This estate belonged to the Mortimers, who obtained of Henry 1, a charter of liberties, and a market for this place. The market has however been discontinued. To Raunor the road winds between some mountains, and passes under a few grand projecting rocks, called Stunner. The vale of Radnor, and the opposite mountains, appear between these rocks in a most pleasing manner. Two miles hence, to the left of the road, is seen the venerable church of Old Radnor: it’s situa¬ tion upon a hill, renders it a distinguished object. A few scattered houses only re¬ main of the old town, beyond which, the road passes between two handsome fami¬ ly-seats ; that to the left, called Harpton, is the residence of John Lewis, esq., and on the right is ldoivnton, belonging to Per- cival Lewis, esq., both of whom have considerable estates in this neighbourhood To Hay. Cross the Arrow river, to Spennmoor, 3m. Bullingham, lm. Eardes- ley, 2m. Willersley, lm. cross the Wye at Whitney, to Clifford, 4m. Hay 3§m. To Builth, 16 miles. — Presteign, 7 miles, Lipsconrb. — Radnor, 6^ miles. — Leominster, 11 miles. — Hereford, 19§ miles. — Hay, 14 miles. From Bishop’s castle, 13 miles, Wyndham. - Ludlow, 17 miles. - Presteign, 7 miles. KNIGHTON, orTref-y-clawdd, that is the town upon the dyke, in the cwmwd of Dyffryn Teyfeddiad, cantrif Y Clawdd (now called the hundred of Knighton) situated on the eastern border of Radnor¬ shire, seated upon a steep bank of the Teme, and so called from Offa’s dyke, which runs above the town. This Dyke enters this parish on the n. from the coun¬ ty of Salop ; and after running for 2m. in almost a straight line to the s., it is plainly to be traced through the parishes of Nor¬ ton, Whitton, Discoed, and old Radnor, in this county, into the county of Hereford. Knighton is situated at the head of a deep vale, descending in several handsome streets, which open to various picturesque objects in the adjacent country. The population in 1801 was 785 inhabitants, the number of houses 221. This roman¬ tic vale is surrounded by high hills, well clothed with wood and verdure. The Church living is a perpetual curacy, not in charge, of the certified value of lOh patron the warden of the hospital at Clunn; church dedicated to St. Edward. Mar¬ ket, Thursday. Fairs, Saturday before 2d Sunday in March, 17th May, 2nd of Octo¬ ber, and 9th of November. It is one of the contributary boroughs to New Rad¬ nor, and has the privilege of making bur¬ gesses, who receive an annual rent among them from the tolls of the market. It is governed by a bailiff, appointed at the court leet, which is held under a lease from the crown, by the earl of Oxford, who is steward of the cantref of Mael- ienydd. Here is a small Free-School, en¬ dowed by mrs. Barnsley with 1 1. per an¬ num. About two thirds of the parish are under cultivation, the remainder being hills. There was formerly a Castle in a commanding situation at the uppe part of 677 KNIGHTON. the town, which is entirely destroyed. The Church is a modern structure erected in the year 1752. The petty Sessions for the hundred of Knighton are held here. The seat of the ancient and highly respected family of Price is here. The principal Inn at this place is the Duke’s-arms. On the road to Clun, at the village of Perlogue, rises the celebrated camp of Caractacus called Caer Carudoc. To Newtown the best road for carri¬ ages is by way of Bishop’s Castle. The direct mountainous road lies through Knucles, 2 miles ; Collier’s mill, 2 miles; Llanvair, 1 mile, the Red Gate 2 miles. The pedestrian then enters upon a com¬ mon, which he must cross in a n-w. di¬ rection, attending closely to the direct cart tract, neither turning to the right nor the left, tho’ invited by other cart-roads. Leave a farm house shaded by trees, on the right; reach a small enclosure upon the left, when a finger post, looking at a distance upon the horizon rather like a small stunted tree, must be passed. This moor, 7 miles across, is generally well swarded, affording pasturage not only for abundance of sheep, but for numerous horses or ponies. Continuing to follow the track of the carts which bring wool from Newtown to Knighton this way, in many places scarcely discernable, at length the path becomes plainer, falling into a more frequented road, and by keeping to the left, the small village of Kerry is attained, [see Newtown] where may be found comfortable accommoda¬ tions. The Temc river rises at the foot of Clay-hill, not far distant. The dreariness of the common on quitting it is amply re¬ compensed and contrasted by the sudden appearance of a fertile vale, and well cul¬ tivated country which continues to New¬ town. To Radnor. Norton, 4|m. (on the 1. to Presteign, 3m.) Discoed, 21 m. (lm. further, on the 1. is a road to Presteign, 3m.) Kinnerton, 3m. Radnor, lgm. To Radnor (New), 10 miles, Wyndham. — Presteign, 7 miles. — Bishop’s-Castle, 11 miles, — Newtown over the mountains, 15 miles. — Clun, 6 miles. A A /A///AAA/AA//// / // ANA A 1 -A From Malvern, 8 miles, Lipscomb. -Ross, 13£ miles. LEDBURY. 678 LEDBURY, in Radlow hundred, Here¬ fordshire is an ancient market town situ¬ ated upon a declivity within a small val¬ ley formed by the Dog-hill, and other em¬ inences, and about lm. w. from the river Leddon. It chiefly consists of two streets, one crossing the other at right angles. The principal street runs n. and s. and has a middle row near the old market- house, which is elevated upon strong oak pillars, and composed of timber and lath plastered and whitewashed ; the beams being coloured black. This mode of building predominates in the more an¬ cient part of the town; and many of the houses have projecting stories. The mod¬ ern ones arc built with red brick. The pavement of the best streets are rugged. The Church is a large building of saxon origin but has undergone many altera¬ tions, at different periods. Formerly the clothing trade here was very flourishing. The principal business now carried on is the manufacture of ropes, lines and meal- sacks. Great quantities of choice cider are made in this neighbourhood. The Charities consist of a frec-school, and a hospital for 7 poor widowers, and three poor women, who each receive 5s. week. ly, besides clothes and bring. In 1801, the population amounted to 5058 inhabit¬ ants, the number of houses, 618. The Market is on Tuesday. Fairs are held 1st Monday in Feb. Monday before Easter, May 12, June 22, Oct. 2, and Monday before Dec. 21. The Inns are the George, New Inn, Feathers. About 2m. s-s-e. from Ledbury, at Easlnor, the residence of Lord Somers, is Castle ditch, the views from which are very beautiful. The following is the route to Here¬ ford. To New-Mill, lm. Wall-hill, lm. 5f.; Virzen, |m. Trumpet-house, 7f.; Pid- lin, 5f.; Torrington, 2m.; New Inn, 3f.; Stoke Edith, lm. (Thos. Foley, esq. has a house here, and the parsonage, dr. Nap- leton.) Dormington, and Church, lm. 3f. Qm. beyond is the road to Hereford, through Lugwardine, 5m. 1 mile beyond Dormington, on the r. is Langworlli, Rob. Phillips, esq. Entrance of Mordiford, a road to the 1. to Ross 12m.) Mordiford, — Woodhouse, esq. the bridge, over th’e Lug, the course of which is from Leomin¬ ster to the Wye, 2m. If. Hampton Bishop, C79 LEOMINSTER. 680 vnrs. Mynde, and farther on the I. Rother- o> as Chas. Bodenham, esq. Hereford, 3m. 1 f. To Hereford, 1!) miles, Lipscomb. — Worcester, 16] miles. From Worcester, 26 miles. - Ludlow, 11 miles. - Wigmore, S miles. -Prcsteign, 14 miles. LEOMINSTER (pronounced Lemster) is situated in a rich and fertile vale, in Herefordshire, intersected by the rivers Lug, Kenwater, and the Pinsley, abound¬ ing with orchards, hop-yards, fine mea¬ dows, and arable lands. The ancient name of this town, Leonis Munasterium, by which it was known in the time of Giral- dus, has been variously derived by old writers. Leland says that “ the towne is famous by a monastery of nunnes, and was called Llan-lheny, id est, “ locus vel fanum Monialium.” Some have de¬ duced the name from the confluence of the Lug and Oney, and thence called Lugoneyminster, and by corruption Leom¬ inster. Others say the original inhabitants were designated by the term Lleonau or Llienu, i. e. marshy. Hence came Llan- lleonnau, or Llanllienu, the ancient name of Leominster, originally written Leony-minster. In doomsday book it is written Leofminstre, the church of Leof, the contraction of Leofric, earl of Mercia, of which this country was a part. [See also Bishop Tanner.] The river Lug flows upon it’s n. and e. sides; 2 smaller streams run through the town, and 3 other con¬ siderable rivulets pass it within half a mile. It’s extent from n. to s. is nearly a mile; and from e. to w., about half that distance. The population of this place as taken in 1801, was 3019 inhabitants, 733 houess. The suburbs are ill built, and the streets in the centre of the town are narrow. There are a great variety of old timber and plaister houses, fantastically adorned with curious grotesque carvings, coloured white and black. Most of the modern buildings are respectable edifices of brick. Tradition enumerates various scenes of hostile contest which disturbed this part of Britain in it’s earliest periods. The district around Leominster being in¬ cluded in Siluria (from Esyllug or Esyllyr ; an open country of downs) it is not im¬ probable that it was here that Caractacus made his last effort in opposing the roman power. Nor did his defeat break the spirit of the Silures; for tho’ at length overcome by superior discipline, on the secession of their conquerors from Britain, they repossessed themselves of their an¬ cient territory which they now denominat¬ ed Gwenta,or Venta. Caergwentor Caer- leon was the metropolis. The same love of freedom which inspired their opposi¬ tion to the roman arms, impelled them to resist the incursions of the Saxons. “ It was here that the spirit of Ambrosias nerved the arm, and steeled the hearts of his descendents, posted upon the heights of Ambury: here was the impregnable work of Thornbury constructed, to impede the progress of the invader, and to per¬ petuate the name of Uthor Penclragon: and here the renowned Arthur the most ac¬ complished prince of his time, triumphed over Cerdic, the most powerful of the sax- on kings. His cromlech, (consisting of an incumbent stone, 18 feet long and from 7 to 10 broad, and 2 feet thick, supported by 8 upright stones ) still exists, upon a bold eminence near Moccas, the seat of sir George Cornwall, bart.”—Leominster Guide, 1808. The subsequent conquest of this district by Offa, king of Mercia, was facilitated by the intestine dissensions of it’s inhabitants. The royal residence was at Sutton, 6 miles s. of Leominster. The dyke bearing Offa’s name became the line of demarcation. Merwauld, from whose religious foundation and residence, or castle, Leominster appears to have ori¬ ginated, was the son of Penda, king of Mercia, and brother of Peada his succes¬ sor, who was the first Christian monarch of that state. In 1055, Gryffyth, a welsh sovereign, and Algar, earl of Ches¬ ter, seized upon the town of Leominster, and strengthened it by fortifications, the remains of which may still be traced. Af¬ terwards the approach of earl Harrold oc¬ casioned the Welsh to retreat; when hav¬ ing recovered the town, he is supposed to have added to the works. At the period of the Domesday Survey, Leominster had become a place of considerable conse¬ quence. The manor at this time belong¬ ed to the king. Here was also a wood 6 miles in length and 3 broad. About the time of William Rufus, the fortifications of Leominster were enlarged, to secure it 681 LEOMINSTER. 682 against the incursions of the Welsh. In the reign of king John, William de Braose, lord of Brecknock, a turbulent and high spirited baron, seized Weobley Castle, and then marched against Leominster. The inhabitants were forced to surrender, whende Braose plundered the town, and burnt great part of it, together with the Priory and Church. De Braose was after¬ wards obliged to seek refuge on the Con¬ tinent; but his wife and eldest son fell into the power of the king, who barbar¬ ously starved them to death in Windsor Castle. After the defeat of the earl of March by Owen Glyndwr, [see Wigmore] this victor took possession of the town, and confined Mortimer in a common dun¬ geon, now converted into a stable, at the top of Church street; he also plundered the church, and levied heavy contribu¬ tions on the inmates of the priory. Af¬ ter the battle of Shrewsbury, Glyndwr, finding himself in danger retreated to Leominster, and stationed his army in a strong camp, upon a hill about 2 miles to the s. This ancient camp is thought to be that called Ivinglon, upon the Brierly Hills. That upon which prince Henry stationed his army probably is that which may be traced a few miles to the west¬ ward, nearly midway on the road between Stretford and Pembridge. On the death of Edward 6, the endeavours of the duke of Northumberland to secure the throne for lady Jane Gray, occasioned those in the duke’s interest to assemble near the town, amounting to 1:5,000 men. This force diminished, as princess Mary’s success become more apparent, till only the most zealous partizans of the duke alone remained. These strongly entrench¬ ed themselves upon a small eminence, called Cursnah or Caeroneh Hid, about a mile w. of Leominster, and thence menac¬ ed the town with an assault. The inhab¬ itants, who were mostly in favour of the hereditary succession, procured assist¬ ance from Hereford and made an attack upon the entrenched camp which they defeated and dispersed. Mary considered their service as important, for she reward¬ ed the leaders and granted to the town it’s first regular charter of incorporation ; and other privileges. The manor of Leomin¬ ster, with all it’s appurtenances, then valu¬ ed at 666/. 19s. 8 d. annually, was given by Henry 1, to Reading Abbey, which he had founded. After the dissolution of monasteries, Leominster, with it’s various members, was held by the crown, till the time of James 1, when it was granted by that sovereign to his favourite the duke of Buckingham, with it’s appendages During the Interregnum, the estates which had belonged to the Queen, were in pos¬ session of Henry Marten, esq., one of the judges of Charles 1, who was afterwards confined 27 years in Chepstow Castle; but after the restoration, the whole appears to have been restored to the then duke of Buckingham, the spendthrift and profli¬ gate Villiers. This nobleman sold a very considerable part of the estates to differ¬ ent purchasers about the year 1662, and 10 or 12 years afterwards, the remainder, in¬ cluding the manor and borough of Leom¬ inster, was taken possession of by major VVildman, who had been an active support¬ er of the parliament during the civil wars, and to whom the duke was indebted the sum of 1400/. After the revolution the major sold several of them, and leased others ; but the proceeds of the residue scarcely amounted to 30/. more than the fee-farm rent payable to the crown. He, therefore, in 1692, sold all the remainder, including Leominster, to lord Coningsby, who was lord chief justice of Ireland, for 3069/. The earl of Essex, a descendant from his lordship, by the female line, w’as afterwards owner. The Church at Leom¬ inster is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul. The whole of that part bf the struc¬ ture appropriated to divine service, was erected at the beginning of the 17th cen¬ tury ; the old church, which seems to have been a magnificent structure, having been destroyed on the 18th of March 1700, by an accidental fire occasioned by the carelessness of some plumbers, who had been repairing the lead, of which nothing remains but that part called the back-aisle, the n. side deserves particular attention. The porch forming the entrance has been rebuilt in a style of barbarous incongruity. This aisle about 1760, was separated from the nave by a line of wood¬ en partitions intersecting the middle rango of columns. The w r alls of this place are covered with effusions of indecent satire, or obscene allusions; and these arc suf¬ fered to accumulate from year to jear without the application of a mop. The expense of the new fabric amounted to 683 LEOMINSTER. 684 upwards of 15,500/. In it’s present state the church is irregular, both in it’s form and architecture. The most ancient parts are the e. wall, the n. side, the tower which stands at the n-w. angle, the w. end, and the wall and windows of the s. side. In the tower is an excellent clock with 8 musical bells, and chimes which go at the hours of 4, S, and 12. At the s-w. angle of the church is a short pointed spire, and at a little distance a turret in which is suspended a small bell, used on prayer-days, and for noticing vestry meet¬ ings. In the interior, the chief part is modern. The exterior of the e. end has 3 large buttresses, a high pointed window, with intersecting mullions, and 2 smaller windows. The ground to the eastward is uneven ; probably from the foundations of the Priory Church. On the n. side is a very strong semicircular arched door¬ way, with one smaller within it, and 3 singular windows, having angular wooden mullions and gables with roofs j the cleres¬ tory windows, above, have semicircular arches. The upper part of the tower is in the pointed style, and embattled; the lower part is Saxon ; it displays a singular rich entrance door-way on the w., having a recessed arch, with 3 pillars on each side, the capitals of which are ornamented with sculptures of foliage, a couchant man, a tyger, snakes entwined round branches, and birds. The pedestals and lower parts of these pillars are buried un¬ der a greataccumulation of earth, occasion¬ ed perhaps by tire burning and rebuilding of the church. The mouldings or arches, are slightly pointed, but are embellished with lozenges and zig-zag work. Above this door-way is a mutilated recessed sax- on window, the capitals of the pillars, on each side of which are highly ornamented with scrolls and tracery. Beyond the tow¬ er were 2 large pointed western windows; the largest, which vvas next the tower, was composed of very rich tracery work ; the mullions uncommonly laboured, and those in the middle supported by buttresses : the other window was more simple ; but equally rich in ornament, the mullions entirely covered with rosettes, as were the moulderings on the sides, and within the arch; the window on the s. side are also all pointed, and embellished in a similar manner. To the eternal disgrace of the reverend train of ecclesiastic arbi¬ trators of this place and their mighty wise coadjutors in the business of “ beautify¬ ing,” be it known that they have ranked themselves with the vandals of the age, by reducing the tracery work of these win¬ dows to ridiculous substitutes of another kind. This patch-work business was carried on in the year 1812. The in¬ terior length of this building is 125 feet and it’s breadth 124; the northern and southern sides measuring each 62 feet. On the n. side is the nave and n. aisle of the ancient church, which are detached by a range of massive circular columns, with round arches, over these are saxon arcades, and still higher, rude arched windows ; the arch of the tower, which opens into this part, is pointed, and reaches nearly to the roof, which is here of timber ; a corresponding row of mas¬ sive columns range on the s. side between the old and new parts of the building. The s. side, which is the modern part, and used for divine service, is spacious and lofty, and in a plain but neat style; the roof is sustained by 4 tuscan pillars. . The pews are of oak. At the w. end, is a neat gallery, supported by Corinthian pillars; in which a fine organ was erected in the years 1731 and 1738. The altar-piece is a painting of the last supper, from Ru¬ bens. In the church yard are memorials of 2 females, named Joan Seward and mrs. Wheel, both of whom attained the age of 103. There are in this town, a baptist, presbyterian,moravian,quakers, and methodists chapels. A building con¬ tiguous to the church, once was a school- house. The Priory was situated to the n-e. of the church, on the little river Pinsley, of which some of the buildings are yet standing : among them is the Pri¬ ory House, which has undergone various alterations. Lord Coningsby had it fitted up as a county goal; it was afterwards made a mansion-house for the Bailiff; but has since been converted into a House of Industry. The Town Hall is a singular building, of timber and plaister, constructe dabout the year 1633 : the architect was the celebrated John Abel, who built the shire hall at Hereford. The quarter sessions are held here, as well as the assemblies of the corporation. In the Council-chamber is a portrait of sir Charles Hanbury Williams, knight of the bath, who was one of the representatives 685 LEOMINSTER. 686 for this borough in 1754. A neat Market-House, for the sale of grain, was erected by the corporation in the year 1803. It is a little building in the tuscan order, with pediments and a cupola, standing in a small square to the eastward of the High-street. The Court-House was the ancientchapeloftheForbury, then a school, and afterwards occasionally used as a theatre. The Engine-House adjoins, and over it the Grammar School. A new Goal was built here about the year 1750. Several improvements have been made in Leominster within the last 15 or 20 years, but the butchers’ houses near the town- hall, are still a nuisance. The Corpora¬ tion consists of a bailiff, chief steward, recorder, 24 capital burgesses, a chamber- lain, 2 sergeants at mace, and some in¬ ferior officers. The members of parlia¬ ment are chosen by the corporation, and inhabitants paying scot and lot; i. e. who pay their quota to public exigences, and are subjected to serve parochial of¬ fices. Leominster is a precinct dis¬ tinct from and independent of the county ; no county magistrate can issue a warrant therein ; no county rates are imposed up¬ on it; nor are it’s inhabitants liable to serve on juries at the county sessions or assizes. To every ward arc appointed two constables, vested with extensive powers. The public Grammar School, where youth are instructed in the classics, and prepared for the University, the learn¬ ed professions, &c. was founded and en¬ dowed with 20/. per annum by queen Mary. There are here also very respect¬ able Young Ladies’ Boarding-Schools ; 2 Sunday Schools; a Permanent Library, 2 circulating Libraries, some Benefit Socie¬ ties ; an Agricultural Society; a lodge of Freemasons, and a troop of Yeomanry Cavalry. The wool, the cider, and hops produced in this neighbourhood have gen¬ erally the preference to those of other districts. Leominster was formerly noted for its woollen stuffs and camblets, it’s paper and cotton mills, which now do not exist. The clothing, the hat, the weaving of lines, tire tanning and timber business are still carried on. There is also a considerable manufactory of gloves. The aspect of this district is extremely beautiful, the soil various but chiefly a mixture of marl and clay, and every where is presented a rich fertility, render¬ ing this part of Herefordshire peculiarly desirable. The wheat is superior to most in the kingdom, as yielding the finest flour and more in quantity. An Alms-House for 4 decayed widows, each of whom have 5 pounds annually, has been endow¬ ed by mrs. Hester Clarke. There is no regular Theatre here, but the bailiff and burgesses accommodate the Hereford manager with the use of the Court-House, for about 4 nights in every third year. The late inclosure of the common by act of parliament has deprived the town of its annual Horse Races ; but the inhabitants seem to have borne, with exemplary pa¬ tience, the privation of their dearly belov¬ ed diversion. The Dancing Assemblies arc held during the winter at the King’s- arms or Red-lion inns, where are also Card Assemblies. A Billiard-table is kept at the King’s-arms; but the Bowling- green has been converted into a garden. The virulence and animosity which char¬ acterise contested elections have much diminished that social intercourse which heretofore distinguished it’s inhabitants, and rendered it a desirable place of resi¬ dence. Those who are partial to the a- musement of Angling cannot be furnished ■with finer or better flavoured trout, gray¬ ling, pike, eels, &c. than in the Lug and the Arrow. During the summer the Leominster society of angle,rs meet at Mortimer’s-cross, distant 5 miles, every first Tuesday in every month. The most favourite Walks about Leominster, are The Grange, near the church; and the walks round Eaton-hill, and Gatehouse- field. The Rides in this vicinity are de¬ lightful, affording a rich variety of pic¬ turesque scenery and rural beauty. The views from Eaton-hitl, Croft-park, Ilaijip ton-park, Shobdon-tevod, II ynncsley-hill, llamplon-xoafers, Ac. arc exceedingly di¬ versified and fine. The site of the Castle or Palace, mentioned by Leland, as be¬ longing to Mcrwald, is supposed to be the mount to the eastward, which over¬ looks the Hay-lane. The population of Leominster, as returned under the late act, amounted to 3019; the number of houses, 736. Edmund Mason, a singular character ended his days at this place on the 2Sth of Jan. 1801, of whom the following account is given in the Gent. Mag. for Mar. of the same year. He was by birth a gentleman, and remarkable for 688 687 LEOMINSTER. being, in spirit, integrity, disorder of imagination, and even a ray of intellectual ability, the living representative of the inimitable hero of Cervantes. He was generally known by the appellation of Sir Edmund Mason. Tho’ perfectly harm¬ less, he was constantly accoutred in arms. He imagined himself the greatest general of the age ; related deeds, atchived by his arm in battle, which no other mortal could equal; believed that kings and emperors had vied in conferring upon him every imaginable title and badge of honour. Mason supposed that he had enjoyed the Confidential friendship and admiration of the late great Frederick of Prussia. From his foreign correspondence, he thought that immense remittances were sent for the support of his dignity ; yet he was ever without money, from the difficulty, he said, of cashing bills of exchange for millions. He was fond of music. He had a favourite Ramthus, equal, in height of bone and scantiness to Rosinante, which he thought could outstrip the swiftest race-horse on the turf. He was decorous and dignified in manners, cleanly in his person, temperate in his diet. In love with the fancied princess of some ■undiscovered island, he would not suffer one of the fair sex to touch even his little finger. His bed was a roomy wooden chest, from which his musket was con¬ stantly levelled. He was in his later years confined ; but the confinement was reconciled to his mind, by the persuasion that he resided in a castle as the governor. He was the author of the original plan for draining and inclosing the common of Widemarsh, near Hereford. Inns. Red Lion, King’s-arms, the Bell, and Oak and Unicorn. On the upper road to Ludlow, at the distance of 2 miles is the village of Luston, anciently one of the 4 halimots, (from the saxon Heal-gemot, now called a court baron,) belonging to the priory of Leomin¬ ster. In the reign of Edward 3, Here- wardus de Aula, was lord of this manor; granted in a more recent period to sir James Croft, by queen Elizabeth, and is now the property of S. Davis, esq. of Croft castle. The bury of Luston is sub¬ ject to an annual rent charge of 48/. devis¬ ed by dr. Herbert Croft, bp. of Hereford, to trustees, for the relief of poor clergy¬ men, their widows, and the augmenta¬ tion of poor benefices. In the year 1808, the principal was valued at 1,200/. the income therefore, ought to be 60/. per annum.—Leominster Guide, p. 320. One mile and a half farther, on the right, is Eye, a manor which about the time of Henry 3 belonged to the abbot of Read¬ ing. It was long afterwards sold to sir Ferdinando Gorges, who was deputed by queen Elizabeth with the custody of the unfortunate Mary of Scotland. In 1754, Richard Gorges, esq. was proprietor of this mansion, and represented the borough of Leominster. In 1787, his son, reduced to necessitous circumstances, sold this estate to the right honourable Thomas Harley, of Berrington, and other valuable property. His sister too was subjected to support herself by manual skill and in¬ dustry. But mr Gorges, afterwards mar¬ ried a lady of considerable fortune, and the sister had an accession of 60,000/. At the 5th mile, turning a mile to the left along the road which crosses from Ten- bury to Presteign, is Orleton, a manor given by the Conqueror to Ranulph de Mortimer, whose descendent, Edw. 4, held it distinct from the crown lands. This manor passed through several fami¬ lies to the Blounts, of whom Thomas Blount, esq. was author of the “ Frag- menta Antiquitatis; or ancient Tenures and Customs of some Manors/' and two folio volumes of m.s. collections for a history of Herefordshire. He was buried in Orleton church. Thomas Blount, esq. m. d. of Hereford, is the present proprie¬ tor. Retracing the road and crossing that which leads from Leominster to I.ud- low, and pursuing Presteign road for a mile, arrive at Birchall-house, the seat of colonel Smith. The improvements carry¬ ing on here are expected to make the place delightful. Seven miles on the Ludlow road is Richard's Castle, erected before the conquest by Richard Scrope in the reign of Edward the confessor. On the lower road to Ludlow about 4m. from Leominster is Berrington, the beau¬ tiful seat and manor of the late right hon. Thomas Harley, brother to the late earl of Oxford, and member for this county in 5 successive parliaments. It is now the property of his daughter lady Rodney, but will descend to her 2nd son the right hon. Harley Rodney, when he comes of age. The mansion is a square edifice of stone. 690 689 LEOMINSTER. situated in a pleasant park, commanding some beautiful scenery. There are in the house a few good paintings particularly of his majesty, and another representing the action in which lord Rodney, whose son married the heiress of this house, broke through the french line undercount de Grasse, near Dominica. In front of of the house are 6 brass pieces of Spanish ordnance. On the n-e. near the angle of 2 roads, leading to Eye and Brimfield, is the site of a small camp called Castle grounds. To Ludlow, the following are the dis¬ tances. Cross the Kington canal, to Lus- lort, 2m. 3f. Beyond on the r. is Berring- ton, lady Rodney. (Near Portway, on the r. to Tenbury 7m. on the 1. to Presteign, 12gm.) Portway, 3m. 3f. Bilberry, lm. Batclicot, 7f. (On the 1. is Richard’s Cas¬ tle.) Overton, lm. On the 1. T. Salway, esq. Ludlow, lm. 5f. On the road to Hereford may be visit¬ ed the Camp of Ivington, by passing through the South-street turnpike, by Broadward, a good house and offices built by Daniel Stead, esq. and now possessed by Mr. Edwards ; then crossing the Arrow over a strong stone bridge, and advancing to the s-w, about half a mile, either through verdant meadows or along a new road, you arrive at the pleasant village of Brier- ley upon which hills this ancient camp is situated. When this district became ex¬ posed to roman inroads, the war-detesting druid abandoned a spot where secrecy and silence no longer prevailed and retired to the more peaceful recesses of Mona or Anglesea. The Silurian generals then im¬ proved the natural advantages of this posi¬ tion ; but falling into the power of the romans, it’s oval or elliptic form was re. duced to a square, which at present ap¬ pears to be divided into two parts; the larger and exterior entrenchment is un¬ doubtedly roman, the modern and interior is supposed to be the camp occupied by Owen Glyndwr, as many coins of the dates of 1339 and 1340, have of late years been turned up by the plough. This sum¬ mit commands a very extensiveand diver¬ sified prospect. Formerly the highway from Leominster to Hereford went through the village of Ivington, in which was a chapel and high altar, now extinct. The court of Ivington was the seat of the an¬ cient family of the Warnecombs; it is now the property of dr. Berington, of Wynnes- ley. The manor with the Bury-housc, parks, &c. belong to the family of John¬ stone, of Ludlow. Return along the new road and reaching the highway to Hereford, you continue along it to the s. and leaving on the left a handsome man¬ sion-house built in 1604, by Richard Whitehall, esq. a citizen of London, and high-sheriff of this county, now occupied by mr. Yeld, you pass through the village of Wharton and by Fordbridge, having a redoubt on each side ; another is upon Warhill, i. e. Wardhill, being outposts to Ivington camp: then crossing St. Mary’s brook, and leaving the village of Newton on the right, and part of Hampton court park on the other side of the river Lug on the left, the first road turning to the s-e. will conduct you at the distance of 5 m. to Hampton Court, lately the princi¬ pal seat of George Capel Coningsby, earl of Essex. It is supposed to have been built under the auspices of Henry 4, by sir Rowland Lenthall. His accomplish¬ ments captivated the affections of a near relative of his royal master, who present¬ ed him with this manor as a marriage portion. It is, however asserted in the original plan and elevation of this house, that Henry 4, when duke of Hereford, was the builder, and said to have resided at it. His helmet, which he wore on the memorable day appointed for the single combat with Thomas Mowbray, duke of Norfolk, is still preserved. It is however certain that Lenthall received this manor from Henry 4, and sold it to Cornwall of Burford, of whom it was purchased by the ancestors of lord Coningsby, whose daugh¬ ter, Frances, married sir Charles Han- bury Williams, knight of the bath, and re¬ presentative of this borough. Their daughter, Charlotte, married William Anne Holies Capel, 4th earl of Essex, whose son George, the 5th earl of this family, held this domain in right of his mother, till about the year 1808, when it was sold to the present possessor Richard Arkwright, esq.; of the family of the celebrated inventor of the cotton-mill. The secession of the late noble owner has occasioned the disappearance of but few of those objects of curiosity which once repaid the attention of visitors. The handkerchief marked with the blood of king William; a few family rarities, and C91 LEOMINSTER. 692 n portrait, by Rubens, of Henry 4, are all that have been removed. The helmet of that king may yet be tried on by the curi¬ ous visitor, who wishes to array himself in the steel of chivalry. The mansion is a large magnificent structure, situated up¬ on a spacious lawn of nearly 100 acres, end protected on the n-e. by an eminence covered with luxuriant foliage. About a quarter of a mile to the s-w. flows the river Lug, which, at some distance be¬ low the house, is joined by a beautiful little stream which rises in the hills about Lockley Heath, and meanders through the park in a south-westerly direction. This noble pile partakes partly of the cas¬ tellated, and partly of the monastic char¬ acter. The buildings surround a quad¬ rangular court; having a grand square en¬ trance tower in the centre of the tr. front; and at each extremity, another and small¬ er tower, the most eastern of which unites with the chapel. The entrance tower is deeply embattled, andmachicolat- od on both it’s faces. It is to be regret¬ ted, that much of this curious old man¬ sion was destroyed by incongruous altera¬ tions, begun about the time of William the 3d, and continued during the succeed¬ ing reigns; but in the various improve¬ ments which have since taken place, the building has been, in part judiciously re¬ stored to its pristine character. The in¬ terior is commodious, and many of the apartments are fitted up with great taste. One of the apartments is furnished in a spiendid manner, with crimson damask hangings, and the bed and canopy of the same, remains precisely in the state as when used by William 3, who here visited Thomas, baron Coningsby, a nobleman particularly distinguished for his bravery at the battles of the Boyne and Aghrim in Ireland. In the library is an ebony casket, upon the lid of which are minia¬ tures of the said monarch and lord Con¬ ingsby, ingeniously copied from large pic¬ tures, by the present lady Essex. Among the very valuable paintings pre¬ served in this mansion, are some interest¬ ing pieces by C. Jansen, Holbein, Van- dyck, Lely, Kneller, and Reynolds. The Chapel still retains traces of it’s pristine appearance: the roof is of timber work, with many carved ornaments, peculiar to tl}e pointed style. Several of the win¬ dows contain painted glass in various stages of decay. The sCenery around this mansion is highly picturesque and beautiful. The park is between 7 and 8 miles in circumference; and contains some fine timber. During rainy seasons, a fine cascade is formed by the rushing of the waters over a mass of broken rock. Near the house is a good shrubbery, inter¬ sected by a pleasant walk. Not far dis¬ tant is a neat residence for the steward; and at the entrance of the park, is a very handsome Lodge, in the rustic style. Returning hence, we descry Hope Clmrch, consisting of a nave and chancel, built by the Coningsbies of Hampton-court, and containing some good sculptures, old monuments, hatchments, arms, &c. of this family. At a little distance to the w. is the Bury-house, (i. e. the man¬ sion-house, court-house, or chief farm house) the ancient residence of the stew¬ ard of this manor, formerly annexed to the priory of Leominster. It is now a farm-house, belonging to an estate the property of lord Selsea. Hence as¬ cending a gentle eminence towards the w. descry Wymlesley-hovse, formerly be¬ longing to Rowland Windesley, whose daughter and heiress conveyed this an¬ cient seat and property to Beryton, alias Berington, of the Lacy, by marriage, in the reign of Edward 3, in which family it has ever since continued. The mansion is newly fronted, but very antique. Up¬ on a wooden cross over the porch are carved these words: Per signum Tau libera nos Domine. Upon one of the in¬ terior cross beams, is carved an ancient coat of arms. Returning from this place into the turnpike road Dinmore-hill may be ascended. This is a consider¬ able eminence formerly defended by a tower. It commands some very exten¬ sive prospects. To the n. the country is extremely rich, containing the venerable mansion of Burghope, Marden and Wel¬ lington chruches, Burg-hill covered with wood, the spires of Hereford cathedral and churches, and a great extent of flat country, stretching to the s. and s-w. where the view is terminated by the Skyr- rid and the Black Mountains of Brecon. Upon the western summit there formerly stooda Preceptory belonging to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, in London. At the foot of this hill, on the s. side, lies Burghope House formerly the seat of the 69 3 LEOMINSTER. 694 ancient families of Goodyere and Dinely. It is now going to decay, and a part of it has been pulled down. Sir John Dinely the last baronet of the family, sold it to governor Peachey, now lordSelsea, about the year 1778. About a mile n-w. of this place, lies Einmor c-House an old building of stone, late the seat of Richard Stukely Fleming, esq. situated upon an eminence. The library is large, contain¬ ing valuable books and mss. illustrating the antiquities of the county. About 2 miles s. from Burghope-house is Marden Church, situated upon the banks of the Lug, which was built over the spot where Ethelbcrt, king of East-Anglia, who had been treacherously murdered by OfFa, was first buried, and where is a well still call¬ ed Si. Ethelbcrt's Well. The church was dedicated to his memory. 4m. s-e. from Marden is Sutton-Walls, which others say is the site of the palace of Offa, king of Mercia, where the unsuspecting Ethelbcrt was treacherously murdered. This spot includes a spacious encamp¬ ment, surrounded by a single rampart, about 40 feet high, with entrances on the e. and w. ends, and n. and s. sides. The area, which is of an elliptical form, in¬ cludes 30 acres of land, nearly level, ex¬ cept towards the western end of the e. aide, where is a low place called Offa’s Cellar. On the road to Hay, is Stagbalck the seat of the rev. — Whitney, and Caernch- cop, i. e. a sepulchral eminence, vulgarly called Corner-cop. The village of Monk- land, so called from a small cell of ben- edictine monks, distant 24 miles, is sub¬ ordinate to St. Peter’s abbey, at Conches, in Normandy, to which the manor and church had been given by Ralph Toni the elder, in the reign of William Rufus. On the suppression of the alien priories, this estate was granted by sir Rowland Lent- hall and Edward Windsor, by Henry 5. At Burton-court, 3 miles w. from Monk- land, is a small camp, supposed to have been occupied by Henry, prince of Wales, afterwards Henry 5, when he opposed Owen Glyndwr. From Monkland through the pleasant village of Dilwyn, 3J miles, once belonging to Walter de Gamage, stands Weobley, an ancient parliamentary borough by prescription not corporation. It formed part of the barony oP'the Lacies, from whom it descended by marriage to the De Verdons, and afterwards passed through the various families of the Furni- vals, the Ferrers, and the Craphuls, to the Devereuxes, earls of Essex. On the s. side of the town was a strong castle; the site has been converted into a bowling- green. The church is spacious, strongly built, and has a lofty spire. It contains 3 ancient burial chapels, with some ancient mutilated monuments of the De Verdons, barons of Weobley, and a magnificent modern one to the memory of the cele¬ brated oliverian colonel Birch. In Cam¬ den’s time Weobley was famous for good ale. It had formerly a market, which has been discontinued, and since the Highway was made to leave the town about a ^ of a mile, it’s decline was accel- lcrated. It appears at present an incon¬ siderable village and may rank, with pro¬ priety, among the most decayed of bor¬ oughs. At Garnstone, near this town, has been lately erected a splendid Man¬ sion-House, ornamented with towers, battlements, &c. in a pleasing situation, by Samuel Peploe, esq. a descendent of col. Birch. Almost close to Garnstone is the noted eminence called Lady Lift, from the summit of which the prospects are uncommonly grand and sublime. A long extent of ground to the s-e. compose a part of the charming demesne of Foxley, the seat of Uvedale Price, esq. author of the very ingenius “ Essays on the Pic¬ turesque.” This gentleman, descended from Judge Price, married the only re¬ maining heiress af the family of Rodd, by which he inherited this manor. It form¬ erly belonged to the abbey of Llanthony. The approach to Foxley, from the village of Mansel-Lacy, is carried near the broken banks of a winding rivulet, flowing through the valley between the Foxley and Wormsley-hills, which rise to a coo- siderablc elevation, and are covered with fine trees, forming a woody amphitheatre round the mansion. This structure of brick commands some fine views; many of the apartments are elegantly finished, and contain some fine specimens of paint¬ ings by Titian, Reubens, Berghem, Van- dervelde, Claude Loraine, Poussin, Sal¬ vator Rosa, Rembrandt, &c. The parish- church of Sarnsjield, 3|m. which contains the tombstone of John Abel, the architect of the market-houses of Hereford, Leomin¬ ster, Kington, Brecon, and Weobley, who <595 LEOMINSTER. 696 died in 1694, aged 97. When he was up¬ wards of 90 years old, he engraved upon a etone, for his own tomb, the figure of him¬ self kneeling, with those of his two wives, and the emblems of his profes¬ sion, rule, compass, and square, and this epitaph composed by himself. This craggy stone a covering is for an architector’s bed, that lofty buildings raised high, yet now lays low his head, his line and rule, so death concludes, are locked up in store; build they that list, or they that wish, for he can build no more. His house of clay would hold no longer, may heaven build him a stronger. JOHN ABEL. Vive, ut vivas in vitam eternam. Live, so that you may live for ever. The Sarnsfield Oalc, is a venerable looking tree, measuring at the base nearly 24 feet in circumference. Kinnersley,2^m. con¬ taining 45 housesand 198 inhabitants. The church is a rectory. 2£m. further is Wil- lersley lm. the village of Whitney, where .the Wye is crossed. To Clifford 2 miles, formerly a place of consequence, now an insignificant village, containing 152 hous¬ es and 627 inhabitants. Some fragments of the cross, in the market-place, yet re¬ main. Several of the houseless lanes are called streets, and there are many vestiges of the town-walls. The last of the Clif¬ ford family, which gave name to this place, is said to have been killed by an ar¬ row, near the site of the ancient Church. Opposite to this place, stands the neat newly-built house, called Bosamond Cot¬ tage, the property of mr. Waller Phillips, son of Thomas Falkner Phillips, esq. of Manchester. 2m. hence is the Hay. Upon a bold eminence, rising from the Wye, yet stand the picturesque remains of Clifford Castle, for nearly 2 centuries the baronial residence of the Lords de Clif¬ ford. [See613] In the time of Henry 1, Simon Fitz-Walter, founded here a Cell of Cluniac Monks, subordinate to the priory at Lewis in Sussex. On the road to Kington, distant 13 miles, is Cholscry or Cholcestra, 2m. where tradition says a roman camp or colony existed. Cholstry seems to be a cor¬ ruption of Castra. Anciently it was spelt Caerostruy, i. e. the city of Ostruy, per¬ haps a corruption of Ostorius. Cursneh or Caerne-hill, which lies contiguous, was also a fortified eminence upon which fosses and ramparts are still discernable. Laughton, §m. Eards-land , 2m. Pembndge, 2 m. a place which gave name to the an¬ cient family of Pembruge, Pembridge, or Brydges, ancestors of the lords Chandos. The belfry and spire are detached from the church, and in the shape of a Chinese pagoda; here is a market-house, but no market. The country is highly cultivated. On the western side of the town is The Byletts, an ancient seat of the Lochards or Lockards. Of ten brothers 3 were slain in supporting Charles 1, in the de¬ feat at Richard’s castle. About lm. after passing Morecourt, 2m. turn to the left to the ruins of Lyons Hall Castle, of which scarcely any thing remains but the fragments of an outer wall. “The very old lords of Leonshall,” says Leland, “ were the Marburyes, whose heir gener¬ al conveyed it to the Devereaux in mar¬ riage.” The late lord viscount Weymouth was ownerof this estate. [See Kington.] On the road to Presteicn, distant one mile is the celebrated Baron’s Cross, where Harold convened the barons to aid his operations, and where they assembled to curb the despotism of John, by a deter¬ mination to vindicate their privileges, and where they extorted the foundation of british freedom, the venerable code of Magna Charta. Little more than-# miles further Kingsland is presented, a pleaping, well-built and rural village. The church is a massive building, and consists of an embattled tower, with side aisles and chancel. On the left of the grand entrance is a retired place, formerly occupied by penitents. Kingsland was part of the great inheritance of the Mor¬ timers. Near to the parsonage-house, which is a handsome structure, formerly stood a castle, the site of which is marked by a large artificial mound. In this castle the body of king Mcrwald, the founder of Leominster nunnery, is supposed to have been interred. This manor was part of the jointure of queen Catherine, consort to king Charles 2, and was presented by William 3 to lord Coningsby, whose de¬ scendant, the present earl of Essex, then lord Malden, sold it to the rev. — Evans, late rector of this parish. His eldest son now enjoys it. At the 8th mile is the village of Shobdon and at a short dis¬ tance Shobdun-Cowi, the elegant seat of the late John lord viscount Bateman, who 697 LEOMINSTER. 698 was descended, by the maternalline, from the great Churchill, duke of Marlborough, now the property of William Hanbury, esq. of Kelmarsh, in Northamptonshire. The house is a square and plain mansion of brick elegantly fitted up, and contains some fine paintings. It is beautifully situated on the southern side of Shobdon- hill, commanding some very fine pros¬ pects. The park is 4 miles in extent. Shobden Church stands near the mansion, built by Oliver de Merlylond steward to Hugh de Mortimer, about the year 1140. The house contains a wonderful collec¬ tion of pictures of the Bateman family, the duke of Marlborough, lord Holland, some of the kings, queens, dukes, judges, &c. and some excellent fancy compositions by Opie. The gardens and hot-houses ere large and full of curiosities. Mr. Bromley, the village apothecary, has form¬ ed, with his own hands, a beautiful pic¬ turesque cottage, which contains his library, laboratory, &c. Little more than a mile out of the road to the s-w. is Stanton , a seat of James King, esq. who after serving an apprenticeship in the borough of Leominster, went to India, where he acquired a handsome property, and [retained an unblemished character. The rural beauties of this situation can scarcely be surpassed. Proceeding about lm. reach the strong and extensive british fortification called H’apley-camp, the banks and ditches of which are five fold, excepting on one side. It’s form is elliptical. It is probably one of those posts which the illustrious Caractacus oc¬ cupied, in defending his country from the rod of tyrants. This road in detail, with the distances, are as follow. Ebnall, ljm. (Jm. further to Kington, on the 1. 26m.) Hobnash, l§m. Pinsley-bridge, over a river which falls in¬ to the Lug, 3f. Kingsland and Church, 7f. (2m. to the r. is Yatton-court, John Wood- house, esq.) Pass over the Kington ca¬ nal, which commences at Kington, and is intended to pass by Leominster, Brim- field, over the Teme, a little n. of Ten- bury, Pensax, and to unite with the Sev¬ ern, near Stourport, but is at present in¬ complete. Mortimer's-cross, 2m. (from this place there is a road to Ludlow, 11m.; and another to Kington, miles.) Skob- don, lm. 7f. (on the r. Shobdon-court, — Hanbury, esq.) VVoodhous*, lm. 7f. (on Cwm-moor, on 1. to Kington, 6 miles ; to Hay, 17 miles.) Cwm, 2m. where is a bridge over the Endwall river, which falls into the Lug. (l^m. on the r. is Kinsham- court, John Whitaker, esq.) Presteign, 2m. If. On the road to Tenbury, l§m. Stoch- tonberry Cross; deviate to the r. ljm.to Over Amnesh, where is Backe Camp, a for¬ tification of roman origin. It is situated upon a hill, not indeed much elevated, but commanding those adjoining. It’s form is a regular square with double en¬ trenchments, and at present there is an opening on each side. Among the camps in this neighbourhood not one appears so perfect or so regular in it’s form. Re¬ turning to the turnpike road, 5m. from Leominster is Laisters Church, where is supended a huge bell, having upon it the words JULIUS CAESAR, which is pre¬ tended to be coeval with the illustrious roman of that name. In the hall of Wool¬ en-House near this place, once the seat of the late mr. Bennet, surgeon of Leomin¬ ster, are inscribed the following lines : To my best my friends are free, free to that, and free to me ; free to pass the harmless joke, and the tube sedately smoke ; free to drink just what they please, as at home and'at their ease; free to speak, as free to think, no informers with me drink ; free to stay a night or so, when uneasy free to go. One mile s-e. from Leominster on the Bromyard road is Eaton, formerly the seat of the Ap-Llhwyds, or Hackluyts. Of this family was Richard Hackluyt, the author of a collection of voyages; from whom the manor and estates descended to the Brabazons. The earl of Meath, who is of this family, is the present pos¬ sessor. In an old wall, where the porter’s lodge formerly stood, is a vacant space called Brabazon’s hole, which may still be seen; intended probably either for safe¬ ty and concealment, or for penal imprison¬ ment. On the s. of this road is a spacious tract of land, once common, called Black- Caer-Dun, on which, tradition says, once stood a populous and flourishing town. Some roman coins of Romulus and Re¬ mus, of Aug. Caesar, Trajan, Constantine, &c. in copper, silver, and gold ; pottery, bones, and various other relics, have been found upon the spot. It is situated upon a branch of the military road, which m- 699 LEOMINSTER. 700 tcrsected this county in a northern direc¬ tion, passing Frame lull, Strelton, Gran- sum, or Grandison, Lug-bridge, Bodenham, Black-caer-dun, Stratford, Cwm-fort, near Stockton, Luston, Cher-rhos, Ambury, and joining Watling-street road at Wigmore. Considering that Black-caer-dun is but a gentle eminence, it commands a view of an extensive range of variegated country: to the s. Hampton-park, and Dinmore woods in the horizon to the n. are the Clee-hills of Shropshire ; and westward the town and church of Leominster, sur¬ rounded by rich meadows and orchards, bounded by the mountains of Brecon and Radnor. At Upperton, above Dock- low church about 3 miles e. from Leomin¬ ster is a small camp; at Ketlicrton lgm. to the s-e. is a more considerable one ; at Birdenbury still further to the s-e. is a 3rd camp ; 4 miles n-e. from that, near Thornbury, is a 4th camp, upon the sum¬ mit of Wall-hill; and at Risbury, a little beyond Stoke-Prior is a 5th camp, very large and strong. These were british en¬ campments, forming a continued line, which began at Malvern-hills, and cross¬ ed this country in a n-e. direction. A- bout 5 miles from Leominster, upon the Fair-mile road, is Puddlestone, the elegant seat of the late rev. dr. Dale, but now is the residence of the rev. C. Whitehead, ornamented with beautiful plantations, shrubberies, graperies, hot-houses, and sheets of water. Netherwood, an extensive manor, on the n-e. side of Wall-hill, in Thornbury parish, was part of the estate of the Mortimers, of whom Roger Mortimer, earl of Marche, was a native of this place. This ambitious ba¬ ron, extending his conquests into Radnor¬ shire, was defeated with great slaughter, by Rhys, prince of S. Wales, in the vale of Radnor. Having passed through sev¬ eral families, this manor was purchased about the time of Charles 1, by Edward Pytts.esq. This mansion is recorded as a noble structure, surrounded by a park of nearly 100 acres. At this place was born Robert Devereux, earl of Essex, the fav¬ ourite and victim of queen Elizabeth. He was privately beheaded in the tower, in 1560, aged 34. About 2 miles to the n-w. along the side of the Kington canal, stands Eyton- hall, the seat of Edward Evans, esq. com¬ manding an almost unparallelled rich and varied prospect. It formerly belonged to — Cranke, m.d. (the friend and cotem¬ porary of the rev. doctor Davies, late rector of Kingsland) who in the following ode describes this enchanting scene, with great simplicity and classical elegance. Amice, villae temporiem turn Laudo ; nec alter me magis Angulus Oblectat: arrisit, fatemur. Kite Cubans et apricasedes! Cui Clivus Euros et Boream altior Defendat, at quee teta Favonio Se solvat, et flatus Tepentes Captet, amans genialis austri. Credas Poet®, non aliter Domus Dilecta Flacco, non aliter situ Supina, declivemque fundum, et Irriguas speculata valles. Quid tecta culmis si popularibus Congesta' tignis et palea rudis Si murus horrescat? nec altte Invidiam faciant column®. At non supellex munda, nec hortulus Deerit salubris; callis at aridus, Amnesq piscosi; frequensque Obveniet, tua preeda, perdix. Jucunda visu panditur area. Amicta cultu, aut strata mapaliis Altave villa; Cambriotque Cxruleos aperire montes. Hunc O! recessum soepius oppido Mutes, amabo; dum licet, otio Fruare, nec febris clientes Det nimios, nimiumive paucos. Originally this house was properly a cot¬ tage, with a covering of thatch and a frame of timber filled up with laths and plaster. Dr. Davies possessed the most amiable and conciliating manners, and in him to the refined accomplishments of the scholar were joined the meek and unas¬ suming spirit of the Christian. Adjoin¬ ing to Eyton is an obscure place called the Crose, derived perhaps from Caer-rhos, the rosey city. This tract was once a deep forest with impassible marshes. Such were the situations, according to Caesar, which the Britons chose for their towns. “ Oppidum autem Britanni vocant quum sylvas impeditas vallo atque fossa muni- erunt.” 1. v. § 17. In this neighbour¬ hood are frequently turned up by tho plough, heads of battle-axes, spear-head9 of stone, arrows, brass coins, antique horse-shoes, and human bones. To Bromyard, 12 miles. — Presteign, 13 miles. — Kington, 13 miles. — Ilay, 21 miles. — Hereford, 13J miles. — Worcester, 26 miles. To Lad- 701 LLANI3ADARN FAWR. 702 To Ludlow, 11 miles. — Tenbury, 11 miles From Pont y Monach, 12 miles. Wyndham. -Tregaron, 12 miles, Skiine. - Aberystwitli, 1 mile, Lipscomb; LLAN BADARN FAWR is situated in a valley, lm. s-e. from Aberystwitli, in Cardiganshire, partly in the cwmwd of Mefenydd, cantref Canol, (now called the hundred of liar), and partly in the cwmwd of Creiddyn, cantref of Penwedie (now called the hundred of Genau’r Glynn) ; is a parish, a discharged vicarage, the bishop of St. David’s patron ; the resident population of this township in 1801 was 3852. The money raised by the parish rates in 1803 was 959/. 9s. 9 \d. According to mr. Meyrick the manor is called Y Faenor, and belongs to the duke of Leeds. The tenures of the Crown Manors are free Soccage tenures, and courts Leet and Ba¬ ron are kept in them. The waste land consists of about 8000 acres. There are no tythes belonging to the vicarage. The Flesh-market is removed to Aberystwitli. In the year 1038 Gryfydd ab Llewelyn ab Sitsyllt came into Cardiganshire, when he laid this town in ashes, and afterwards marching through all S. Wales made the people take an oath of allegiance to him. There are several old british camps or forts in this parish, as there are all over the county. That which is most remark¬ able is Fen y Dinas, near Aberystwitli. The sanctity of St. Dubricius and St. David, drew into Brittany, from foreign parts, St. Pat emus, a devout young man, who built here a Church and Monastery. A church here was destroyed by the Danes in the year 9S7; another in 1038. The present Church is large, built in the early pointed style, containing a massive square tower supported by lofty arches. The interior consists of a nave and chan¬ cel, formed of rough materials, with a few modern monuments, of the Prysc family, one for Cornelius le Brun, of Cologne, John Jones of Nant Eos, and several for the Powels of Nanteos. A flat stone in the chancel covers the grave of Lewis Morris, the celebrated antiquarian. He was brought up a land surveyor, but filled several offices under government. He was first collector of the duties and cus¬ toms at Holyhead. In' 1738 the Admir¬ alty appointed him to survey the coast of Wales, which was published in 1748. He was surveyor of the crown lands in Wales, and was agent and superintendant of the king’s mines. He composed poetry, sev¬ eral of which appear in the collection of David Jones of Trevriw, called “ Diddan wch Tculuaidd.” He planned a valuable work, entitled “ Celtic Remains,” of the nature of an historical, topographical, and etymological dictionary. This unfinished work is in the hands of the rev. Walter Davies, in a state of considerable improve¬ ment, but not printed. Lewis Morris passed the latter part of his life at Pen* bryn, in Cardiganshire, a small mansion which devolved to him on his second marriage. Among his various pursuits he performed well on the harp, violin, flute, and horn, and knew so much of physic and surgery as to administer to the afflicted poor. The s. portal is light and elegant. The chancel and n. transept are separated from the rest of the church by light and elegant carved screens of elaborate workmanship, probably erected about the time of Henry 7. On the s. side of the church are two ancient stone crossr es; one of them stands in a reclining posi¬ tion, adorned with runic knots and cir¬ cles, the other in the shape of a cross is probably of greater antiquity: it is almost buried in rubbish. According to the diocesan report in 1809 the yearly value of this benefice was 136/. 12r. The suf¬ fragan bishop of Llanbadernfawr was one of the 7 who had conference with Augus¬ tine the Monk, who wished to establish his own supremacy over the british church. Mr. Edward Lluyd supposes, that the ancient inscription upon a tomb in Llan ddewi brefi, is to the memory of the bishop of Llanbadarnfawr, who was barbarously murdered. Before this event this place had continued an episcopal see, as established by St. Paternus ; afterwards it was united to St. David’s. The church seems to have been given, a. d. 1111 , to St. Peter’s of Gloucester, and was after¬ wards appropriated to the Abbey of Vale Royal in Cheshire.—Tanner’s Not. Mon. On the n. side of the church, the buildings were, probably, a part of the old monas¬ tery, a pointed arch, and other circum¬ stances in them indicating great antiquity. Some land in this parish is still called 7 ir y mynoch, or “ the monks land.” Above the church is a small narrow dingle, in a 704 LLANBADARN FAWR. LLANBEDR. 703 particular part of which, the church bells while ringing cannot be heard, yet by moving a little one way or the other they may be heard distinctly. An immense stone remains in the centre of the village, but has been broken by boys making a bonfire upon it. The roman road called Sam Helen, from Loventium, now Llanio, to Penallt, near Machynlleth, passes through a farm in Llanbadarn parish called Llwyn rhinayll. The Sunday Schools of this parish, in 1805, contained 500 scholars. At a short distance from Llanbadarn Fawr, mr. Skrine joined the great road from Aberystwith to N. Wales, and pas¬ sing Talybunt, gained a view of the coast, just where a vast range of mountains ex¬ tend along the Merioneth side of the river Dovey. This river is here an estuary, capable of receiving large vessels, and occasionally inundates a considerable plain. Crossing the stream of Llysnant, which divides the counties of Montgom¬ ery and Cardigan, he soon reached the town of Machynlleth. Sir Richard Hoare advises the tourist to examine on his way to Machynlleth the roman station at Penalt, rather than go to Aberdovey and Towyn; and from Penalt instead of pursuing the dreary road along the coast to Barmouth, to take the more mountainous track near the pretty lakes of Tal y Llyn, and under the majes¬ tic base of Cader Idris to Dolcelly, in which route he will see some of the grandest scenery in N. Wales. The route to Aberystwith by way of Aberaeron, tho’ 5m. further round than that through the village of Llanlir, com¬ mands much more beauty of scenery, and to those who travel in carriages, the avoid¬ ance of a long and steep ascent of 2 miles is another consideration. To Newtown, (having passed about 2 m. is a mountainous road on the 1. to Rhaiadyr, about 7m. and another on the r. to Presteign, about 14m.) Cross the Ithon river to Llandewi, Ystradenny, 3^111. Llan- bister, 3m. Pass Llanano, and Caslell Day- bocl, on the 1. Here two roads lead to Llanbadarn Fynydd, 3m. Kerry-hills 7m. Newtown, 12m. To Aberystwith, 1 mile, Wyndham. — Machynlleth, 17 miles, Skrine. — Aberaeron, 18 miles, Lipscomb. From Tregaron, 11 miles, Malkin; Barber. - Cardigan, up theTeivy, to Kilgerran iron¬ works, 29 miles, Wyndham. -Llandovery, 20 miles, Skrine. LLANBEDR, or Lampeter, is a corpor¬ ate and market town situated in the beau¬ tiful vale of the Teivy, in Cardiganshire. It was anciently called Llanbedd, and af¬ terwards Llanbedr pont Steven, in the cwmwyd of Caerwedros, cantref of Y Castell (now called the hundred of Moed- dyn). The bridge over the Teivy, built by a person named Steven, at his own ex¬ pense, is half a mile distant from the town. The roman road from Loventium to Maridunum, or Llanio, to Caermarthen is very visible on the w. side of the river, to which it runs nearly parallel from Llanio. Lampeter consists but of few houses and one tolerable inn. It appears to have been a much larger place formerly than at present. It’s population in 1801, amounted to 669 inhabitants. A piece of ground to the s-w. of the town is called Mynwant Twmas, or Thomas’s church¬ yard, in which pieces of leaden coffins have .been dug up. Of the ancient Castle nothing remains except the moat¬ ed verdant mound of it’s keep, and the site of a quadrangular court. It was over¬ thrown and demolished in the year 1137 by Owen Gwynedd, eldest son of GrufF- ydd ap Conan. The church is very an¬ cient, pleasantly situated upon rising ground a little to the n. of the town, shaded with venerable yew. It consists of a nave, a s. aisle, and chancel. The 2 former are separated by pointed arches, and the latter is partitioned by an orna¬ mented screen. It is dedicated to St. Peter, and is a vicarage in the gift of the bishop of St. David’s. Two thirds of the tithes go to the see, the vicar has the other third with a salary of 15/. Near the altar is a circular arched niche, for holy water. The font is a square stone with a circular excavation for immersion, orna¬ mented with grotesque figures. The church contains some monuments of the Millfield family, and has the remains of a rood-loft within it. Millfield was a very ancient seat of the Lloyds, baronets. In a delightful situation upon the side of the sloping hill to the w. of the church once stood the mansion of the lords of Llan¬ bedr, called Arglivyddi Llanbedr. Tradi¬ tion points out the remains of a causeway 705 706 LLANBEDR. which led by a stone-bridge over the river Civyw ddur in a direct line from the mansion-house, to the w. door of the church. On the n. side of the church is a moated tumulus. Besides the two churches already mentioned, there was formerly a Priory, which stood upon the spot now occupied by the shop of — Jen¬ kins. Adjoining the glebe land, and to the n. of the church is a farm called Hen veddau, which signifies old graves. Up¬ on a hill called Allt goch, appear the re¬ mains of a druidical circle, a part of which is still in a thicket of oak. The stones tho’ large are none of them upright. A farm in this parish is called Castell Byged, from an old intrenchment just above the house. Some have conjectured that this is a roman work, and that Byged signifies Pugetius ; others think that Byged may be the name of a norman general. Hugh Bygod was earl of Norfolk in the time of king Stephen. There is a large intrench¬ ment on Allt goch, another upon Olioen hill, and another in the form of a parallelo¬ gram, beside it on the river Dulas, in which was found a hand mill-stone. The Teivy is not navigable at Llanbedr as has been asserted by Pinkerton. Mr. Malkin says, that vessels have never come much further than Punt Llechryd. For about lm. on each side of the town the soil invites cultivation, but the environs of this place abound with steep turf fences, amid bleak and barren mountains. In vain has thorns, elders, hazel, birch and even furze been planted. With the as¬ sistance of lime, the farmers are enabled to raise a small produce only of oats and rye. Such is the natural poverty of the soil that the art of agriculture has hither¬ to been exerted in vain. Fishing parties from a considerable distance, re¬ sort to this place. Those who can be con¬ tented to trifle life away on the banks of the Teivy, and gratified with potations of welsh ale by way of regale at night, may here be amply accommodated. The Black, lion is a decent house, where post-chaises are kept. The Market is on Saturday. The Fairs are held on the 1 lth ot January, Wednesday in Whit-sun week, 10 July, first Sat. in Aug. o. s. 27 Aug. first Saturday in Sep. o. s. 26 Sep. 19 Oct. first Sat. in Nov. o. s. The town is corporate, governed by a port- rieve, and a contributary with Cardigan in 24 returning a member to parliament. The Sessions are held here annually on the second Wednesday in Oct. About ^m. from the town is a bridge over the Teivy supposed to have been erected by king Stephen : a meadow near the river is still called the king’s-meadow, where he pro¬ bably encamped. In a field adjoining was discovered a subterraneous room, with several curious stone steps; this was rooted up for the sake of the stones, by the proprietor of the land. On quitting Llanbedr towards Ponlynen on the way to Newcastle in Emlyn, there is, close to the town, a large and an¬ cient seat of sir Herbert Lloyd with 4 tow¬ ers crowned with domes in the middle of a fine enclosure. A little way to the 1. beyond, is Llanwnnen, on the banks of Grawnell river, which joins the Teivy at a little distance on the 1. of the road. A little further on the 1. is Llanvaughan, a family seat of John Thomas, esq. A- bout Llanwenog the country begins to im¬ prove, and the living fences flourish. From Rhydowen forwards, the agricultur¬ al, as well as picturesque appearance of the district begins sensibly to improve. By turning down a bye-road to the 1. in the village of Rhydowen, the romantic situation of Alllyr Odin may be seen, and by keeping along the banks of the Cletur, till it falls into the Teivy. and then taking the vale to Llandyssul, a very interesting reach, will be commanded, which would be lost by adhering to the turnpike. Alltyr Odin is situated on the side of a hill, overlooking the beautiful little valley through which the Cletur runs. Not far distant from the house occur a pleasing little fall, some striking masses of rock, and the foundations of a very ancient cas¬ tle on a hill. There is another similarly situated, in the vnlc of Teivy, close by. From the point where the Cletur falls into the Teivy to the sea, the banks present a succession of pictures very rarely to lie outdone. The village of Llandyssul, tho’ poor, is exquisitely situated. Charles Bernard, esq.’s house stands on the Cacr- marthenshire side of the river, in a style of neatness and simplicity, well suited to the complexion of the spot. This place has been much visited by those who are curious in the practice of husbandry. From Llandyssul to Newcastle in Emlyn, rnr. Malkin recommends the Caermar- 707 LLA.NBEDR. 708 thcnshire side of the river. The re¬ mains of Strata Florida, or Ystradflur, a cisterican monastery, founded in 1164, by Rhys, prince of S. Wales, lies at the distance of 4m. n-e. of Tregaron, sur¬ rounded by mountains, in the wildest part of Cardiganshire. One saxon arch alone remains of this once revered sanctuary. On the way is Llanio issa, an ancient sta¬ tion the supposed Loventium of the ro¬ mans, situated upon the n- sv. banks of the Teivy. The fields in this place continual¬ ly yield to the plough, specimens ofroman pottery, culinary articles, coins, &c. in¬ deed one field is called by the natives Caer Castell, the field of the castle, and in this the foundation of a roman building was discovered 150 feet in length, and 72 feet in breadth. Several roman inscribed stones may be seen in the walls of cot¬ tages; and upon one is an inscription sig¬ nifying that a cohort of the second legion of Augustus was stationed there, and built a part of the walls of this city. This Stood on the Via Occidentalis, or the great w.road from Maridunum, or Caermarthen, to Penallt near Machynlleth. Some call this road Sam Helen.—Meyrick’s Cardi¬ ganshire. See also page 497 of the present volume. There is a road leading from Llanio, (on the way from Llanbedr to Tre- garron) towards Llandovery in it’s way to Brecon and Gloucester. It may be traced running in an e. direction to Llanvair mountain, which it leaves to the 1. and then takes a s-w. track to the church of Llanycrwys in Caermarthenshire. Upon the top of Llanvair mountain is one of those tumuli generally placed t in such situations to mark the course of their roads. It may afterwards be distinguished in two places near the little river Twrch, in the valley, and it afterwards leads through Cairo, where are some old mine works. Hence it goes to Llanvair ar y Brin, near Llandovery, and then to Y Gaer, near Bre¬ con, and so on to Gloucester. Several roads of communication are obvious. Such occur in the parishes of Llanviangel Gen- au’r Glyn, leading from one mine to a- nother. One of them runs from a moun¬ tain called Pen Sam ddu towards the w. Wherever the word “ Sarn” occurs, we may find traces of a roman road. Talsarn in the parish of Trevilan, and Pen Sarn near Ystradmeyrick, Sarnau, in the parish of Pombrin, all have received their names from this circumstance.—Meyrick, xii. The e. banks of the Teivy may be follow¬ ed with advantage, to Llandezvi Brevi, (where are some curious inscriptions) and then crossing the river to Llanio issa and Trecarron. From this place may be visited the remains of Strata Florida ; whence the tourist will have to cross a most dreary tract of country to the only hospitium which the country affords ; namely the Hafod-arms, near Pont y Monach. Crossing the long old bridge of Llan¬ bedr on the road to Llandilo the coun¬ ty of Caermarthen is entered.upon. Noth¬ ing can be imagined more dreary than the first part of this track, which lies over an extensive range of lumpy hills. Not a tree, not a bush is to be seen. From this region of sterility the traveller, after some time, however, catches a gleam of culti¬ vation, in some distant hills bordering on Brecknockshire; afterwards, on a sudden turn of the road, he will look down, with pleasure, upon the pleasing little valley of Llansawel, watered by a crystal- ine branch of the Cotiiy. This valley is immediately succeeded by another cal¬ led Edwin’s Ford, a delightful spot, where high encircling hills are clothed with ex¬ tensive plantations to their very summits. In the bottom is a large old manor-house belonging to Colonel Williams, beautified around with leaden mercuries, shepherd¬ esses, and sportsmen. This place remains in the genuine style of king William’s reign, and with all it’s absurdities, is more interesting than if patched up with mod¬ ern improvements, or done up in the packing-case mode which now prevails, because it exhibits a specimen of times that are passed. Long avenues of trees extend from the house ; and, quitting this valley, another is presented, pleasingly decorated with wood, and the ruin of Tal¬ ley church. A cheerful road, lined with hedgerows and coppices leads through a succession of swells and hollows, adorned with numerous plantations, particularly those of lord Robert Seymour Conway, to Llandilo vawr. To Aberaekon gain the adjoining hill, whence the vale of the Teivy is displayed to great advantage. The hollows of the hills are dotted with sheep and cattle, on the slopes of which heath, fern, and turf or peat, with patches of cultivation con- 709 LLANBEDR. 7l0 tinue to the 4th mile stone, when a grand view of the rich triangular vale of Aeron is suddenly unveiled. The heights round this vale are covered with extensive woods, from the level of the plain to more than half way up the sides. This agree¬ able feature is wanting in the vales of the Towey and Teivy. Crossing the open part of the vale watered by the small but cheerful Aeron, enter a defile, about half a mile wide. This valley continues in a winding direction all the way to Aberae- ron, exhibiting a succession of beauties. On the way notice the village of Ystrad. In the church yard stands a remarkably ancient and beautiful yew-tree. The cottages are frequently very picturesque, but some of them are absurdly whitewash¬ ed on the outside. Even the beautiful blue slate does not,escape this bedaubing custom. About 2m. from Aberaeron is the elegant modern seat of col. Lewis called Clanchairon; in Smith’s map it is called Cilianaeron, and by Cary Cilenero :. The valley is here somewhat expanded, as if to make room for the embellish¬ ments which are happily applied. It is fronted with a lawn, and backed by a hanging wood. The road, which lies on the 1. of the house is cut through a rock. At the bottom of a precipice on the right rolls the chrystaline Aeron, which falls into the bay of Cardigan. On the high road to Tregaron, at l£m. pass the village of Silian. The church stands in a romantic situation, but is a poor building. In the yard is a rudely carved stone monument nearly buried in the ground. At the 3d mile is Bellas Bleddrws. The church is a small rectory. On the 1. is Derry Ormond, the seat of John Johnes, esq. has been lately rebuilt. It’s situation is elevated, commanding an extensive view over the surrounding mountains. A little beyond the 4th mile Llangyby lies on the 1. The church is a perpetual curacy. Upon a hill above the river Teivy is a large intrenchment, called Castell Goedlrev. About the 8th mile is Llanio, a farm house, the property of col. Johnes, of Havod; the ancient Loven- tium of the romans, and a considerable station upon the great western road cal¬ led Sam Helen, between Caermarthen and Pcnallt near Machynlleth. Several coins and culinary utensils have been dug up here, and three roman inscribed stones are built up in the walls of two cottages on this spot. One may be read “ Caii artis manibus primus,” another “ Overi- oni,” the 3d, “ Cohors secundae Augusta fecit quinque passus-.” Almost the whole of this place is covered with fragments of the finest brick. On the s-e. side of the house, is a piece of ground called “ Cae’r Castell,” or the field of the castle, in which are still the remains of foundations of buildings. Next is Pont Llanio, and 1 m. further Tommen Llanio, a moated tumulus. The road on tire eastern side of the Teivy is certainly pre¬ ferable as containing objects more inter¬ esting than on the highway. Cellan, at the distance of 2m. gives name to a parish containing an uncommon number of British antiquities. The large quantity of wood which it contains contributes to give this district a very picturesque ap¬ pearance. The mountains abound with sheep walks, hence the inhabitants ate shepherds, butchers, tanners, curriers, spinners, weavers, fullers, &c. This parish is in the lordship of the same name, purchased by the rev. Lewis Tumor, of Wervilbrook, of col. Johnes of Havod. Upon the mountains in this parish ate clearly to be seen vestiges of that branch of the roman road from Llanio to Trev Coch, in the parish of Caes, and thence to Trev Coch, in Llanvair ar y brin, near Llandovery. Upon a circular raised tu¬ mulus, which is moated, is an immense stone, 11 yards in diameter, called Llech Cynon, the river just by is also called Fried Cynon-, but who Cynon was it is im¬ possible to tell. Upon the mountain to the n. of the river Frvvd are two cistvaens, called “beddau,” or graves; and upon the mountain on the s. side are two more, one of which is called Bedd y vorwyn or the Virgin’s grave. Mr. Meyrick says that he had these opened and they appear¬ ed alike. Their form oblong, consisting of 4 stones, in the centre a little tumulus of earth and stones. After clearing away the rubbish, a stratum of gravel appeared, next a thin layer of sand, and under that burnt ashes of bones and wood laying up. on a bed of clay, which had been placed upon the rock. The depth of each was about 3 feet, and from 2g to 4 feet long. A very great number of the carnau or carneddau, may be seen upon the moun¬ tains in this parish ; but 2 extremely large LLANBEDR. 712 ones, upon a very high mountain near the road leading from Llanvair to Llan- ycrwys, are most conspicuous. These, and another called Fair Carnan, consist of heaps of large stones, without doubt the graves of heroes who fell near the spot. On the s. edge of this parish is another “ bedd,” similar to the 4 just mentioned ; in it is a stone called Carreg taire croes, placed there to mark the boundary of the parish. Two immense stones are upon the mountain s. of the river Frwd. One is called “Byrvaen,” which has fallen from it’s upright position, 15 feet long and 4 in width and thickness. The other, called “ Hir vaen gwyddog,” or the conspicuous colossus, stands upright, 1G feetabove the ground, on 3 sides 3J- feet, and on the other 2| feet. It is probable that these immense stones were erected to com¬ memorate a victory. Near the road lead¬ ing from Llanvair to Llanycrvvys is an im¬ mense stone called Maemj Prenvol, and Maen Penvol gvvallt gwyn. It appears to have been a Cromlech, and to have fallen from it’s original situation. It is 16 feet in length and it’s breadth is 24 feet in cir¬ cumference. It now lies upon it’s edge upon part of a moated tumulus of earth. About 2 yards from it, is a walled erec¬ tion, and some scattered stones, the whole probably once formed a cromlech. Pren¬ vol may be a corruption of Brin voel, i. e. the bare steep. Besides these curiosities, there are 3 intrenchments in this parish; one upon the summit of a hill near the river Frwd, called Gaer Morrice or Morys ; a house about a £m. from it is called Lluest Carlzugan, i. e. Cadwgan’s encamp¬ ment. A number of carnneddau and bed- dau arc near these places. Another gaer in the form of an oval is in a field belong¬ ing to the farm of Glanfrwd. And the 3d, a very large circular one, is between the same farm and the parish of Pencarreg, the road to Llanbedr going through the middle of it. The church of Cellan is a rectory, in the gift of the bishop of St. David’s. The building consists of a nave and chancel, with an ancient porch. In it are two sacristories, to hold holy water. There was formerly a rood-loft, the door of which only remains. About the 3d mile is Llanfdir Clydogau, from the 3 rivers Qlywedggau forming the stream which passes this place, and falls into the Teivy. They are distinguished by Cly wedog ucha. Clywedog issa, and Cly wedog canol. This place has been celebrated for it’s mine works, which are now too much under water lo be productive. The Church is a perpetual curacy. It consists of a nave, chancel, and porch. There is a monu¬ ment of black stone, to a son and daugh¬ ter of John Hughes of Gwernmeth. Llanddem Them lies 7m. from Llanbedr, from Llan, a Church, ddewi, David, and Brevi, the name of the brook which passes by, noted for the synod held here in 519, when St. David preached against the pela¬ gian heresy. A few hundred yards to the s-s-e. of the church stood the college of prebends, the ruins of which still retain the name of “Lluest Cantorion,” or tire residence of the chanters ; and the remains of a paved way leading from it to the s. door of the church are still visible in two houses near the church-yard. On the w. side of the river Carnddwr, in this parish, is an old military work, called “ Castell,” raised by Rhys ap Owain and Rhydderch ab Caradoc, princes of S. Wales, at the time when Gronw and Llewellyn, the sons of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn raised an in¬ surrection to revenge the murder commit¬ ted on the late prince, their grand-father. The church was founded by Thomas Bee, 1187, in honour of St. David. It is ahand- some gothic structure, in the form of a cross with a side aisle on the s. of the nave. The n. transept is entirely in ruins, but is to be rebuilt. In this church are the remains of the inside of a large petri¬ fied horn, about a foot long, and very por¬ ous. Bp. Gibson says, the sexton shewed me a rarity called Matkorn yr ych bannog, ormatkorn ych Dewi, which he said had been preserved there ever since the time of St. David. Mr. Lloyd found the fol¬ lowing inscription upon a stone over the chancel door: JHIC 1ACET IDNEKT FIL1 VS I aui occisvs fvit proptep p SANCTI He adds to the first line acobi, to the 2d p.edam, and to the 3d David. It is now over a window, n. side of the chancel. In the church-yard near the w. end of the church, is a very curious old monument 7f. 7 in. above the ground, and about 10 inches square. It has an inscription which cannot be deciphered. Tradition calls it St. David’s leaning staff. Another serves as a gate-post to the w. entrance 714 713 LLANBEDR. to the yard, with simply a cross upon it. Another is the side of the e. entrance to the yard, 3f. 10 in. high, If. 2 in. wide, and 6 in. thick. The inscription is illegi¬ ble. Take the 1. road soon after quitting Llanddewi, continue a mile where you cross theTeivy at Pont Llanio, where the road on the w. side of the river, before described, is fallen into. To Aberystwith. Llansilian, 2m. Pal:eau, |m. Rhyd y gor, -jin. on the 1. Cross the Croythin river near it’s source, which is a tributary to the Teify. Bryn- goleu, l£m. (On the 1. to Aberaeron, 8§ m. Penwern, ^m. King’s-head, sm. (§m. on the r. Felindre, £m. lm. to the r. is Abermetic, D. Edwards, esq. Jm. further, on the 1. Llanllear.) Cross the Aeron riv¬ er to Talsarn, Jm. Trejilan, lm. (On the l. Gelli.) Gwrth Wynl ucha, lm. Rhiw las ucha, ljm. (On the 1. Cilcennyn, and Aeron vale; on the r. to Pcncraig, Court mawr, and places w. of Tregaron.) Cross the river Arth at Dyffryn, l|m. A lew Inn, 1A m. Pen y bont. Am. Cross the Cledon river at Pont Hafodperris, Jm. Llanrhystid, 2 m. (On the r. is Yslrad Teila, rev. Isaac Williams, and about ljm. beyond is Ala- bus, James Lloyd, esq.) See the remainder of this rout from Llanrhystid to Aberyst¬ with, p. 6. To Llandilo, 19 mites, Barber. — Newcastle in Emlyn, 19 miles, Malkin; Skrine. — Tregaron, 11 miles, Wyndham. — Strata Florida, 1 6 miles. — Aberaeron, 15 miles, Lipscomb. — Caermartben, 2tlj miles. ■— Aberystwith, 27^ miles. — Brecon, 3(i| miles. — Cardigan, ‘28 miles. From Caernarvon, byway of Dolbadern Castle, 10 mites, Bingley. -Capel Curig, 8 miles, Pennant; Aikin. - Dolbadern Castle, 4 miles, Hutton; Evans - Beddgelart, over Snowdon, Id miles. LLANBERIS, (the church of St. Peris) in Caernarvonshire, is a small and rude village, surrounded by vast rocks, the cloud-capped summits of which are sel¬ dom visible to the inhabitants below. Ex¬ cept 2 houses, one belonging to the agent of the copper-mine and the other to the agent of the slate quarries, the village consists of a few most miserable look¬ ing cottages; which are constructed of stone without any plaister within, and the windows scarcely admit sufficient LLANBERIS. light to make even “ darkness visible,” yet the inhabitants appear more happy in this secluded place and with the bare necessaries of existence, than millions in busy life, who are in more exalted sta¬ tions. (< Tho’poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’small, he finds his little lot the lot of all; sees no contiguous palace rear it’s head, to shame the meanness of his humble shed ; no costly lord the sumptuous banquet deal, to make him loath his vegetable meal.” In this village are 2 houses, at either of which the wearied traveller may be ac¬ commodated with such refreshments as the place affords; this amounts to little more than eggs, bread, butter, cheese and milk. One of them is inhabited by John Close, the other by the parish clerk, who both officiate as guides. The church is a miserable looking place, resembling an ancient cottage more than a house. The saint to whom it is dedicated was a monk who lived in retirement in the beginning of the 13th century. At a short distance above the church is a huge stone, called Y Gromlcch resting upon smaller ones, so as to leave a pretty spacious room under¬ neath, insomuch that some years since a poor old woman made her habitation un¬ der it, and lived there a long time rent- free. This living is a discharged rectory, valued in the king’s books at 4/. 18s. 9 d. the bp. of Bangor is patron. According to the diocessan report, in 1809, the yearly value of this benefice, was 105/. Le- land says that in his time the narrow pass leading to the church was called Kant y Monach, the Monk’s valley. The saint is said to have drank daily at a well still called St. Peris's well, lamed for the cure of many diseases. There are some other famous wells in this vicinity, not noted for any particular impregnation; as Ffynnon Kegn Arthur, Ffynnon Mocl Rhiwen, Ffynnon Pen i gaer, and Ffynnon Freeh. The lower meadows in this vale, tho’ pleasant, are but few and scanty. The hay-grounds upon the declivity of tlie hills are extensive, particularly those a- bout Cwm brwynog; yet the crops are so poor that a stranger would not think them worth mowing, the grass being commonly not above 4 inches in length. The rev. Peter Williams, is rector of Llanberis and Llanrug, a distinguished and eminent british antiquary, his residence is near the base of Snowdon. Llanberis is in 715 LLANBERIS. 716 the cwmwd of Is Gwyrfai, cantref of Ar- fon, (now called the hundred of Is Gwyr- fai). The resident population of this parish in 1801 was 464. The poor’s rates in 1803, amounted to 54/. 14s. 8r/.at4r. 6 d. in the pound. Out of 2 or 3000 acres which this parish contains, not more than 80 or 100 are used as arable and meadow land. A sheep Fair is held here on Sep. 18, and a festival on the 26th of June. No carriage road from Caernarvon ap¬ proaches nearer to Llanberis than the bot¬ tom of the lower lake, which is not quite halfway; the road thence is nothing more than a horse path. Those who do not choose to walk may be conveyed in boats, to the waterfall, to Dolbadern Castle, or to the village. Every part about this ro¬ mantic spot is so extremely interesting that all persons who visit Caernarvon should prolong their rout by coming here. The immediate neighbourhood of Llan¬ beris furnishes the Papaver cambricum, on moist rocks Cochlearia officinalis, Cam¬ panula hederacea, Scutellaria minor, Fes- tucarubra, Hymenophyllum tunbridgense, Pteris crispa. Polypodium phegopteris, Gentianocampestris, SileneacauIus,Asple- nium nigrum, A.rutamuraria, Arenariala- ricifolia, Tremella verrucosa, T. utriculata. Polypodium lonchitis, Hieracium muro- rum, Galium boreale, Fontinalis squam¬ osa, Cotyledon umbilicus, Carex atrata, in mountainous situations Arenaria verna, Glaucium luteum, with Musci and Algae in profusion. In Ffynnon frech, Isoetis lacustris, Subularia aquatica, and Lobelia dortmanna. In the vale, Trollius euro- paeus. In peat-bogs in Cwm Brwynog, Scirpus csespitosus. On Crib y Ddescil, a high rock near, Aira flexuosa. Upon the highest mountains around, Poa caesia. Festuca rubra, (3; Campanula rotundi- folia ; Lycopodium selagonoides, L. sela- go, moist places. In a moist dell at the foot of Snowdon, Aspidium thelypteris. Between Llanberis and Cwm Idwel, Se- dum repestre. In the vale of Llanberis, which is straight, and nearly of an equal breadth throughout, are 2 lakes or pools. The upper pool is about lm. in length, and something less than Jm. over, and the other, tho’ rather longer, is so narrow that it has more the appearance of a wide river than a lake. These are separated by a small neck of land having only a com- mtlflicatioh by the stream of the river Seiont which runs between them. In the lakes, grows Sparganium natans. A- mong the bushes in the meadows in Cwm y Clo, bottom of the lower lake, Epilo- bium angustifolium. In the river Seoint betwen the lower pool and Cwm y Clo, Lobelia dortmanna. Upon Crib Coch, above Ffynnon Frech, Polygonium vivi- parum. This vale is truly picturesque, bounded by the base of Snowdon, Cefn cwm gafr, the 2 Glyders, and the Lliders. About §m. from the village, on the edge of the nearer lake, is a copper mine, con¬ sisting of several horizontal galleries driv¬ en into Snowdon. The metal is a rich yellow ore, containing copper in union with sulphur. When here, mr. Bingley visited the mine, by entering in one of the waggons in which the miners bring the ore; in this excursion it appears that he was both alarmed and gratified. On a rocky eminence between these sheets of ■water stand the remains of Dolbadern Castle, which cqnsist of a round tower, and some shattered walls and offices, upon the summit of the steep. A little to the s. of this castle is a tremendous catar¬ act, called Caunant mawr, the waterfall of the great chasm, the height of which is upwards of 60 feet. At some distance beyond the castle, and near the edge of the upper pool, is a copper mine, the property of Asheton Smith, esq., of Vae- nol; leased to a company of proprietors who reside at Macclesfield. Near the end of the lower lake formerly lived the cele¬ brated Margaret uch Evan , who died in 1801 at the age of 105, she was the last specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British fair. “ This extraordinary female,” says mr. Pennant, “ was the greatest hunter, shooter, and fisher of her time ; she kept a dozen at least of dogs, terriers, greyhounds, and spaniels, all ex¬ cellent in their kinds. She killed more foxes in one year than all the confederate hunts do in ten ; rowed stoutly, and w^s queen of the lake; fiddled excellently, and knew all the old british music ; did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good joiner : and at the age of 70, was the best wrestler in the country, so that few young men dared to try a fall with her. She had a maid of congenial quali¬ ties; but death, that mighty hunter, at last earthed this faithful companion. Margaret was also blacksmith, shoe-majt- 718 717 LLANBEllIS. cr, boatbuilder, and maker of harps. She Bengam, Draba incana. This hollow, shod her own horses, made her own shoes, surrounded by dark and prominent rocks and built her own boats, while she was under contract to convey the copper ore down the lakes. All the neighbouring bards paid their addresses to Margaret, and celebrated her exploits in pure brit- ish verse. At length she gave her hand to the most effeminate of her admirers, as if predetermined to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.” On the n-e. side of the village is a lofty and almost perpendicular mountain called Glyder-fawr, the great Glyder. The ascent is steep and tiresome. The path all the way rocky, and in many places very w et and slippery. On the 1. of the ascent, may be seen at some distance, 2 high mountains called ILjder mazer, and Llyder bach, the greater and lesser Llyder. The guide will point out, at 4 or 5m. dis¬ tance towards the n., and beyond the deep hollows of Nant Frangon and Cwm Idwal, the lofty mountains of Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn. An ACCOUNT of An Fxcursion from Llanberis to the Summits of the Mountains Glyder and Trivaen, BY THE REV. W. BINGLEY. Mr. Bingley arose early in the morning and at 7 set out from the village, directing his rout up the mountains on the n-e. side of the vale of Llanberis. From, the brow of the first eminence, immediately above the village, the church, with it’s half dozen houses, and a few trees and mead¬ ows, were seen almost as upon a map. Beyond these, and exactly opposite, ex¬ tend a long range of serrated rocks. From the eminence next above, the whole ex¬ tent of the lakes are brought into view. In a flat almost surrounded by rocks, is a small pool called Llyn y Czcm, the pool of the dogs. This alpine lake is said to have contained a monocular kind of trout, perch, and cels, each wanting the left eye. At present, the pool appears entire¬ ly destitute of fish. Proceeding about Jm. along a flat swampy piece of ground, an immense precipice of above 1(H) yards in perpendicular height forms one side ,of the hollow which encloses the black waters of Llyn Idzuel. In this lake grows Lobelia dortmanna; sparingly upon the jocks above, Saxifraga ctsspitosa, S. pal- mata; upon high rocks between Llanberis .and Llyn Idwel, called Creigian Hysfa is called Czcm Idzuel; said to have been the place where Idwal, the son of Owen Gwynedd, was murdered by a person to whose care the father had entrusted him. Between Llanberis and Cwm Idwel grows Sedum rupestre. Descending along the broken rocks on one side of this precipice to a great depth into the hollow, and turn¬ ing among the larger masses, rather more than half way down, where the descent is more gradual, the tourist arrives at the foot of a most tremendous chasm in the the mountain, called Tull Du, the black cleft. A scene more sublime, the pencil of Salvator Rosa could not have traced. The stream from Llyn y Cwm rolls down the deep cleft from a vast height, broken in it’s descent by a hundred interrupting rocks. Among the rocks at the bottom are many circular holes, of different sizes. The welsh people call these hollows the Devil’s Pols, and the place itself the Devils kitchen. Crossing the foot of a range of rocks on the e. side at Cwm Id¬ wel, the tourist comes at length, so close to Nant Frangon as to have a view of nearly it’s whole extent. Still proceed¬ ing, he attains the highest part of the rocks surrounding Cwm Idwel, on the verge of another hollow, called Czcm lloch- linjd, containing the pool Llyn Bdchlzuyd. From this situation the whole conic sum¬ mit of Trifen. is in view. Mr. Bingley iound the ascent a most arduous under¬ taking, and asserts that no part of Snow¬ don, commonly ascended can be com¬ pared to it, for he could scarcely for 4 of an hour take half a dozen steps together without at the same time using his hands. At length he contemplated from the mas¬ sy crag, the scene around, which was rude as mountain horror could render it. He stood upon a mere point, on one side of which was a precipice more deep than any he had before seen. The summit is crowned by 2 upright stones, 12 or 14 feet in height, about a yard and a half asunder, each somewhat more than a yard across at the top. Mr. Bingley's com¬ panion stepped from the top of one to the other and leaped back again. A body thus projected, without great manage¬ ment in it’s counteraction, would have sent him a step farther then he intended to have gone, that is, down the precipice. 710 LLANBERIS. 720 Descending from the summit of Trifen, tind crossing a mountain vale, the side of Glyder bach, the lesser Glyder, may be encountered. This mountain, tho’ con¬ siderable higher than Trifen, is neither so steep, nor so rocky upon it’s exterior. Upon it’s summit are several groups of columnar stones, some standing upright, others laid across, and in various direc¬ tions; many of them are from 16 to 20 feet long, and 12 or 14 broad. Mr. Pen¬ nant says that many of the stones have shells in them, and in the neighbourhood he found several pieces of lava. [See an account of mr. Pennant’s excursion from Capel Curig, page 322.] On his way to the summits of Glyder mawr, the greater Glyder, mr. Bingley observed sev¬ eral of the same kind of insulated masses of rock scattered in different directions. He found the Juncus triglumis in this ascent in a small spot, lying between the eminence of Bryn Bras and the rivulet of Avon Las; in another place Carduus he- terophyllus and Solidago virgaurea, (3. Near the summit, Saxifraga nivalis; a- mong the rocks, S. oppositifolia; Hiera- cium alpinum, Pteris crispa. Near the top, upon the side which hangs over Llyn ogwen rocks, about Ffynnon velen, Poly¬ podium rhaeticum. In Ffynnon frech, growing with Subularia aquatica, Isoetes lacustris. Upon Trigfychau rocks, Hier- aciurn alpinum. From this situation he had a grand and unbounded prospect. The immense mountains of Caernarvon¬ shire; the whole of the isle of Anglesea, and in the distance theisle of Man, resemb¬ ling a faint cloud. After a 14 hours ram¬ ble he returned to the vale of Llanberis, by way of Llyn y Cwm. Near Tull Du, and about the pool of Llyn y Cwm, he found the following plants. Mclica caer- ula, Festuca rubra, F. (3. cambrica, Plan- tago maritima, Galium borealc. Lobelia dortmanna, Parnassia palustris, Saxifraga, stellaris, S. nivalis, S. oppositifolia, S. liypnoides, S. palmata, S. caespitosa, Si- lene acaulis, Arenaria verna, A- var. (3, juniperina, A. var. 7 , laricifolia, Sedum rupestre, Rubus saxatilis, R. chamaemo- rus, Thalictrum alpinum, T. minus, Su¬ bularia aquatica, Draba incana, Cochlearia officinalis, C. 7 , groenlandica, Hieracium alpinum, H. taraxaci, H. aurantiacum, Statice armeria, Anthericum serotinum, Juncus triglumis, Rumex digynus, Va,c- cinium myrtillus, Chrysosplenium op- positifolium, Gnaphalium dioicum, Carex divisa, C. flava, C. atrata, C. pilulifera, Empetrum nigrum, Rhodiola rosea, Juni- perus communis, var, (3, Lycopodium se- laginoidcs, L. selago, L. alpinum, Isoetes lacustris, Pteris crispa, Asplcnium viride. Polypodium phegopteris, P. rhaeticum, Cyathea fragile, and Solidago, var. 7 , up¬ on the mountains about; Juniperus. upon rocks near. From Llanberis, to Capel Curig is a curious and romantic pass between 3 and 4 miles in length, and in some places not more than 50 or 60 yards wide, called Cwm Glas, or the Blue Vale. The rocks on each side are of a tremendous height, in some places nearly perpendicular, and in others overhanging their bases many yards. About 3m. from Llanberis is a huge fragment of rock, far larger than Bowdar stone in Borrowdale, once prob¬ ably loosened from the impending heights above, under which is a large cavity where a poor woman resided for many years during the summer season, to tend her sheep and milk her cows: the place is called Ynys Hetties, Hetty’s Island. The highest part of this gradually ascend¬ ing road is called Gorphwysfa, or the rest¬ ing place. Mr Hutton describes this pass as follows. “ Leaving the enchanting scenery around Llanberis, I instantly en¬ tered Bzvlch y Gwyddyl. I was struck with astonishment at this wonderful spot. He who has not seen it may imagine him¬ self rising a steep mountain, nearly 2 m. long, meeting a rapid stream in the centre, butdiminishing to nothing as he rises, with an immense rock on each hand all the way. From the frosts, the sun, and the rains, which, for ages, have operated up¬ on these elevated mountains of rock, they have been shivering to pieces, and frag¬ ments of all sizes have covered the valley, which is about 100 yards wide, so as to annoy the traveller, and choke the river. All is chaos. Amazement and contem¬ plation till the mind. Many of the stones may be traced to the spot whence they fell. After travelling up this scene of wonder, this wreck of nature, sometimes up stone-stairs, sometimes through water, yet always upon rock, I arrived at the top, called “ The resting place,” whence I had a prospect of the other side of the hill, called Bwlch yr Eistcddfa. One of the 722 721 LLANBERIS. ranges of mountains now opened to the right, which was Snowdon, and the other to the left towards Capel Curig. In front appeared a third range, forming a trian¬ gular area. This was barren, solitary, yet dignified nature. Not one habitation could be descried in all this prospect; not a human being, no shrub, or tree. Even the birds appeared to avoid this secluded spot, to seek their enemy, man. Unpro¬ ductive as the place appears, it is without doubt, thought I, the freehold of some¬ body, but I could not estimate the fee- simple at more than one shilling an acre. It is space without use, freehold without profit. During 2 days did I wander 35m. among these desolate mountains, yet only trod upon 2 estates. I was inquisitive to learn the value of land in a desert. One farm about 300 acres, including a new erected inn, which could not cost less than 12001. is let at 3s. 6d. an acre. Another, 2400 acres, at 60 1. per annum. A third, 600 acres, bl. per annum, which is two-pence an acre ! And here I might pay a compliment to lord Penrhyn, who is proprietor of one of the estates, but that cannot be praise from me which is only a repetition of what all the country asserts, for every tongue which I heard was loud in his favour. His works speak in the most convincing language. As the stubborn rock on the surface of the earth yielded no benefit to man, he explored it’s interior, where he found fuller’s earth, colours, slate, &c. These employ work¬ men, and are exported for general bene¬ fit. Having descended hwlch yr Eisteddfa, or the pass of the Irishmen, and bearing to the right, says mr. Hutton, I passed by a grand cascade, or waterfall from Ffynnon Las, a large pool in one of the chasms of Snowdon. The fall seems about 300 feet high, the water, a strong current, forming the river Llynglas which brought me in view of the beautiful vale of Nant Gwynant; a rich spot, graced with woods and 2 large pools. The whole Nant or valley consists of perhaps 2000 acres, surrounded with dreary mountains; a diamond set off with black shades.” The walk from Llanberisao Caernar¬ von is more pleasing than the mountain prospects the other way. From all the eminences appears an extensive view of Angelsea towards Beaumaris and Priest- holme, and to the left the fine old castle of Caernarvon. In pursuing this road to Caernarvon on the side of the lake, the copper-mine, before mentioned might be visited. The upper and lower lakes are separated by a bold rocky promontory, on which are seated the ruins oIDolbadern- Castle ; at it’s foot flows the river, which, rising in the upper end of Llan- beris vale, passes through the lakes, and falls into the Mcnai at Caernarvon. Up¬ on the hills opposite the castle are con¬ siderable quarries of a moderately fine purple slate, which is sent to Caernarvon, and thence exported. Tho’ the immedi¬ ate banks of the lower lake be quitted to continue along the road, yet the traveller passes within sight of it for 2 or 3 miles further; and reaching the summit of a hill, whence the road begins to descend towards the Menai, a noble and extensive view suddenly opens. “ Before us,” says mr. Atkin, from whose tour this part of the rout from Llanberis to Caernarvon is extracted, “ in the distance, appears the isle of Anglesea ; to the n. stretched the fine bay of Beaumaris, with vessels at anchor under Pnestholme island, a pro¬ jecting rock at the furthest point of the bay : at the s. extremity of the island we saw the broad opening of the Menai from the main sea ana the huge castle of Caer¬ narvon guarding the entrance into the strait. The island itself is but flat, with some hills however rising in the centre and at each extremity; we also noticed a peculiarly striking chain of mountains to the s. of Caernarvon, appearing to be near Traeth Mawr: we recognized in them the same outlines which had forcibly struck us when tracing the line of coast at Aber- ystwith, being in fact that elevated ridge which occupies the centre of the project¬ ing part of Caernarvonshire. In the course of our descent where the rocks ended, we arrived at a plain of considerable dimen¬ sions, so covered with large rounded frag¬ ments of rock, as to resemble the plains where Jove is fabled to have overwhelm¬ ed the giants with a shower of stones. To a mineralogist, or rather geologist, this plain was very interesting; the rounded form of the stones, which were of the same kind as those which compose the various rocks of Snowdon, and it’s vicini¬ ty, naturally suggests the idea of tfhe agency of water; especially as the descent is towards the sea, and the plain itself not 723 LLANBERIS. LLANBITHIAN. LLANDAFF. 724 more than 4 or 5m. distant. The size rates in 1803 amounted to 166/. 18s. 6§yn, Faenor, Fridd, Garthmell, Llan Dini- er, Llifior, Pun Rhyn, and Trust Llywelyn, was 2059. It is 5m. s. by w. from Welsh Pool. Mnen Beano, a stone pillar, is still standing near the Severn about lm. from the church. Faenor Park was once the seat of the Devereuxes, viscounts Here¬ ford, but long since alienated. Tire petty Sessions for the lower division of the hun¬ dred of Newtown are held here. The poor are maintained at Forden. On the road i o Dinas Mo wddwy, oc¬ curs the village of Llancrfyl, 5m. If. which consists of 6 townships : Llyssyn, Cued- Talog, Cynniwyll, Cn'.n, Cefn-liys-uchaf, Cefn-llys-isaf. Th£ population ol which in 1801, amounted to 920. It is 8m. in length and 2 in breadth. The Church is dedicated to Urvul Sanies, whose feast is kept on the Sunday following the 6th of July. It is supposed that the stone monu¬ ment in the yard was erected to her mem¬ ory. This is a rectory, the bishop of St. Asaph, patron. St. Erfyl is the dedicatory saint. The Fair is held May 7. A lady descended from the Herberts of Llyssyn left a farm now let for 30 l. a year, to¬ wards endowing a free school. Upon Moelddolwen, in this parish, 2m. on the 1. of Cann-offics. is a fortified camp of an oblong form, 100 yards in length. The entrance is on the vv. on which side the ascent is easiest. Upon a hill near Llanerfyl is Gardden, a diminutive of Garth, i. e. a promontory, a fort. It is a circular rampart, enclosing an area of a- bout 70 yards diameter. It is observable that the entrance into both these strong holds is broad, and left open on the most accessible part of the fort, seemingly so contrived as to let in the scythed chariots. There is another small gardden upon Moel- feliarth. In Maes-llcmysten township, is a small encampment on the top of a preci¬ pice, enclosed on the accessible side^ with a high ditch : over against this, on the summit of Moparl, is a ditch full as large as Offa’s, cut across the hill, by way of de¬ fence against the incursions of the enemy from the mountains above. Another similar ditch may be seen on crossing the vale of the Barney, near Rhus y gall, in the parish of Llanerfyl. Near Llancrfyl, is an uncommonly ancient mansion-house, called Neuadd wen. This was the seat of Mered.th ab Kynan, brother of Gruff'ydd ab Kynan, prince of N. Wales, who served the Princes of Powis, and was termed lord of Rhiwhirieth, Coed talog, and Neuadd wen. The present name was probably given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that it’s former appel¬ lation was Llys Wgan. The brook which runs by is called Nani llgan. Below this house, on the side of the road, once stood a stone, whereon was across fleury, but it was lately broken by a silly wretch in search of treasure. Adjoining to Neuadd wen lies the capital farm of Llyssyn, some¬ time the estate of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendent of a cadet branch of the fami¬ ly of Neuadd w'en, whose name appears among the bards. This estate was pur¬ chased by the Herberts, ancestors to the earl of Powis, and was the residence of some of it’s branches. In the church-yard of Llanerfyl is a well called Ffynnon Erfyl arched over, and a channel is formed to convey the water to a spout, where the votaries performed their devotions. It is situated in a valley, closely adjoining the s. branch of the Fyrnivy, called here Ban- ley. On the Drum in this parish are 3 small meres or pools. Llyn y grinwydden, (the pool of the withered tree) 70 yards over, is said to be unfathomable. Llyn hir (the long pool) is about 300 yards long and 50 broad. The upper part is skinned over by the slough brought down by the floods from the turbaries above; so that sheep can walk upon it as they would upon a quagmire. Tho’ it gains at this end it loses at the other by the beat¬ ing of the waves. On the n. side, in dry seasons, may be seen a flit stone inscribed MET Jj 1430 This stone lies 7 feet from the bank. The probable distance which the water has encroached since it’s date. The bottom of this pool is full of roots and stumps of trees. Llyn y bugail (the shepherd’s pool) is remarkable on no account except for producing nothing but 767 LLANFAIR. 765 eels. On the borders of Llanbryn Mair stands the pool of Llyn Gwyddior or Ltyn Cadiver, a british proper name. The pool is of a rhomboidal form, and about lm. in circumference. To the w. are very deep hollows, through which the wind some¬ times drives the water in a rapid torrent. l£m. beyond Llanerfyl is Cann-office, where there is a respectable inn, and the people obliging : a different account has been given [319,] on the authority of tour¬ ists, but it has recently been much altered by new inhabitants. Two m. further along the Vyrnwy river, soon after crossing the Twrch, is Garth Beibio, lm. 7f.a township included between the rivers Twrch and Banwy, containing about 44- families. The Church is dedicated to St. Tydecho ab Aneyn Ddu ab Emyr Llydaw. A well adjoining the church, called Ffynnon Dy- decho is constructed for a cold bath, and some virtue is ascribed to it in curing the rheumatism. Pins in great number may be seen in the bottom, thrown in as offer¬ ings. The mansion-house of Dot y maen in this village, has been the residence of some of the Llwydiarth family. There was lately to be seen over an old parlour door, an inscription of the 16th century, i d v 15.. (Within lm. on the r. is Gwa- nos, John Kennedy, esq.) Near Garth- beibio, when the new road and bridge were making, a stone chest was found, but the curiosity of former ages had rob¬ bed it of it’s contents: the lid was thrown aside and the chest filled with loose stones. About a dozen more curncddau, from 30 to 60 yards in circumference, may be met with in the 3 contiguous par¬ ishes of Llanerfyl, Llangadfan, and Garth beibio, besides a greater number of small¬ er ones. The chests or stone coffins are placed in the centre, where the cam is always more protuberant. A circular range of large stones are generally pitch¬ ed on the end, outside of the heap; and those within, are piled loosely in circles about the tomb, and the interstices are filled up with smaller. Some of the earns are covered with earth, as that at Nant bran and another by Ty gwyn, in Llanerfyl. Some are almost conic and approach near to the form of a tumulus, 6uch as that upon the summit of Bwlch y fedwen. The stones bear marks of igni¬ tion, and nodules of quartz may be found among them, reddened and made brittle by the action of fire. A very large stone is placed endwise within 10, 20 or 5C yards from each earn. Where such are wanting they have been converted to other uses. The tumuli and cams were probably the funeral monuments of the ancient chiefs, and their immediate de¬ pendents. The sepulchres of the com¬ monality are found upon the hills; where there is a declivity, a slight hollow is to be seen, and the earth heaped below like a small hillock of an oblong form. When these are opened, a stratum of ashes, blackish or red burnt earth, is discovered. These sepulchres may be seen in great numbers upon a hill called Pen-coed, in Llangadfan. All these hollows are graves, and their manner of burial was thus performed. The dead body was laid upon the bare sward, plastered over with clay, and covered with dry turf; a fire was then made over it with furze, wood, Sec. until the corpse was reduced to ashes, or so that the flesh was con¬ sumed, and the bones nearly burnt: then the charcoal and ashes were covered with earth, and sometimes stones were laid up¬ on it. These and similar barrows were probably raised a thousand years before either roman or saxon invader ever ar¬ rived upon the spot.—Cam. Register 1796, p. 382. To Dulymain, 3m. If. TSanlyr- hedydd, 2m. 5f. Mallwyd, cross-foxes, 3m. To Welsh Pool the road is pleasing tho’ hilly. To the s. lies the chain of the Breidden hills. The high linear of which rocky mass, is divided into 3 peaks, dis¬ tinguished by different names, viz. Craig y Breidden, Cefn Castell, and Moely Gol- fa. Upon the last, a lofty and handsome obelisk was erected to the memory of lord Rodney, and his victories obtained over the French navy are recorded. The ex¬ pense was defrayed by subscription. The bases of these hills are finely skirted with wood ; but the rocky sides are precipitous. Upon a small plain to the 1. called Cow- green, stands Belin-Muunt, a large isolated rock, appearing as an advanced guard, Within sight of this vast ridge of moun¬ tains, Gwalchmai, the son of Meilyr, a celebrated poet of the 12th century, com¬ posed an excellent poem. Distances. At 2m. on the 1. is Penfordd Herbert, lgm. Dolarddin, on the r. lm. Heugwm, and Sylfan, on the 1. Puwis Castle, on the r. 3m. to Welshpool. 770 769 LLANFAIR ISCOED. To Montgomery, 16 miles, Evans; Skrine. — Mallwyd, 16 miles. — Dinas Mowddy, 17j miles. — Penhow, l| miles. — Caerwent, 2 miles. From Dinham, 2 miles, Barber. - Caerwent, 2 miles, Warner; Skrine. - Pencoed Castle, 1^ mile, Coxe. -Tintern, 7§ miles, wyndham. LLANFAIR ISCOED CASTLE, in Monmouthshire, is charmingly situated upon a small eminence, about 2m. from Caerwent, on the road to Usk. In ap¬ proaching this ruin, an effect caught through the intervening trees is pleasingly picturesque ; but the castle aspires not to grandeur, and is much concealed by embowering verdure, yet examined near¬ ly, large foundations are evident, and the walls are no where less than 7 feet in thickness. A square and two round tow¬ ers are the most conspicuous features in the ruin which is in part moulded into a farm house. A stair-case on the side leads to the top, whence is a pleasing prospect. The finest view of the ruins is to the s. where the round tower and high broken walls exhibits a magnificent appear¬ ance; but a view from the s-e. in a field called the Warren, is more picturesque. The area of the principal court is em¬ ployed as a kitchen garden. This fort¬ ress lays claim to great antiquity ; for in 1270 it was in possession of sir Robert Pagan, knt. who was one of the jury sum¬ moned to the court of Striguil at Chep¬ stow, to determine in whom the privilege of house-bote and hey bote in the forest, or chase of Wentwood was vested ; when it was decided in his favour, as the pro¬ prietor of Llanfair Castle. It was also the ancient residence of the Kemeys. Be¬ neath the castellated eminence is the vil¬ lage church, a simple rustic building. The name is derived from Llanfair is coed, the church of Mary below the wood. The village is situated under 2 hills of an oblong shape covered with russet herbage. One is called Mynwdd Llwyd or the Gray-Hill, the other Alll xjr Arfaid or Wolves’ Cliff. The village cemetery is bounded by the turnpike-road. Mr. Warner gives the following stanza, copied verbatim et lit¬ eratim, from the style which leads to the place. “ Who Ever hear on Sunday Will practi# playing at BaU 26 LLANFAIR FECIIAN. It may be beFore Monday the Devil will have you all.” The road from Llanfair to Striguil Castle leads up a steep ascent, through! wild and dreary district, thickly covered with forest trees and underwood, which crosses the IVentiuood, a large forest, con¬ taining 2170 acres, once of considerable extent. Issuing from this deep gloom, mr. Coxe ascended to the summit of the emin¬ ence called Pencamawr, (Pen cae mawr, the eminence of the great enclosure) a high point of the elevated ridge which stretches from the Treleg-hills through the midland district of Monmouthshire, and terminates near Caerleon. On reach¬ ing the height a glorious prospect sudden¬ ly opens. From the midst of the forest he looked down upon the rich vales of Mon¬ mouthshire, watered by the Usk, dotted with towns and villages, and bounded to the w. by the long chain of hills which stretch from Ponty Pool and terminate in the mass of mountains above Abergaven¬ ny. He caught also a glimpse of the Sugar- loaf and Skyridd. Descending, he reach¬ ed, in \ of an hour, Striguil Castle. After traversing a succession of ine¬ qualities, mr. Skrine reached one of the points, where they terminate in the vale of the Severn, and crossing that river, passed Nantcribbn, a pleasant seat of lord Hereford, in his way to Montgomery. To Pencamawr summit, 3 miles, Barber; Skrine. — Usk, lOi miles, Warner. — Striguil Castle, 3.§ miles, Wyndham; Coxe. /-/ yyy/yyy/ ryyy / / y/yyy / r r // y y/y y/ yy yy /y From Penmaen Mawr, 3 miles, Bingley. -Aber, 2 miles, Pennant. LLANFAIR FECHAN parish, in the hundred of Uchaf, in Caernarvonshire, is remarkable for the beauty of it’s site, and the earliness of the vegetable produce; corn being 3 weeks earlier than any other in Wales. Probably this forward¬ ness proceeds from the situation, rather than the richness of the soil. The Church is dedicated to St. Mary; is a dis¬ charged rectory ; bp. of Bangor patron. In 1801 the population of this parish was 470. It contains 1800 acres of cultivated land, and about 1200 acres of mountain. The usual fuel is peat and turf. The Fes¬ tival is held Sep. 8. In a wood called Coed Isa are circles of stone, supposed to be druidic. Immediately under and 771 LLANFAIR FECIIAN. LLANFYLLIN. 772 adjoining the parish of Llanfair fechan and that of Aber, is a large tract of land, about l'2m. in length, by 7 or 8m. in breadth, formerly the possessions of Lly. Helig ab Glanog, which were overflowed in the 6th century, and are now called Traelh Llafan, or The Lavan Sands ; from Tracth, the beach, and Llafan , sea-liver¬ wort or laver. To Aber, 2 miles, Bingley.' — Penmaen-mawr, 3 miles, Pennant. — Conwy, 7 miles. From Llanrliaiadyr, 5 miles, Wyndham; Skrine. - Llangynog, 7 miles, Pennant. LLANFYLLIN, is a market town situated in one of the pleasant vallies of Montgomeryshire, first incorporated by Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, in the Teign of Edw. 2. It is governed by a high-steward, recorder, two bailiffs, 14 burgesses, a town clerk, and 2 sergeants at arms. The Church is dedicated to St. Myllin; a rec¬ tory, the bp. of St. Asaph patron. In 1801 the population of this parish, including the townships of Bachie, Bad Fach, Bod llhann, Bod Yddon, Garth Gell, Glubwll, Nant Halan, Rhiw Nachor, Rhysgog, was 1394. The Market is on Thursday. The Fairs are held on Wednesday before Easter, May 24, June 28, and Oct. 5. Here are 3 endowed schools; one for 24 blue coat boys, another for 12 blue gown¬ ed girls, and a 3d for children, who are not cloathed. A New Town Hall was built in consequence of an act passed in 1775. The petty Sessions for the hundred ofLlanfyllin are held at this place. Many roman coins have been found here; not¬ withstanding, antiquarians say that it was not a roman station ; because the Britons did not perfix llan or church, to the names of roman cities, but cacr, signifying fort or fence. The assertion that the ancient Mediolanum was here is therefore gener¬ ally disbelieved, and is conjectured to have been at Mcifod. About lm. n. of this place is Bodfach, formerly belonging to the Kyffins ; now the residence of sir Edward Price Lloyd, bart. It was formerly a seat of the late Bel Lloyd, esq. in right of the heiress of the place, miss Price. Lord Castle- main, ambassador from James 2 to the pope, retired, after the revolution, to the family of the Prices in this town. Thomas Price, a learned correspondent of the an¬ tiquaries of his time had a large collec tion of mss. which are supposed to have found their way into the Vatican library at Rome. Bodfach is situated in a valley, admirably cultivated, and watered by the Cain. The town and church of Llanfyllin, happily fill one angle in the view. On the 1. is Llzvyn, the seat of John Hum- ffreys, esq. Six m. to the s-w. is Llwycliarth, a large old house, seated in a hilly naked country; formerly the prop¬ erty of the Vaughans, descended from Aleth Hen, king of Dived, or Pembroke¬ shire, now a seat of sir Watkin William Wynne, bart. Llangedwen Hall, is another seat of the same baronet, stands in the vale called Llangedwen on the banks of the Tarat, about 5m. s-s-e. of Llanfyllin. The building is of stone, and was a fav¬ ourite residence of the late sir Watkin. Mr. Pennant passed on the Oswestry-road for 4m. then ascended to the r.; passed near Bryn Gwyn, a seat of the Mostyn family, above which is a circular british post. Man of these front the low coun¬ try, as if to protect the internal parts. There is a very strong rampart, to defend a pass into the vale of Mcifod: the church and village are situated in the middle, which is a flat extending upwards of 5m. and is about §m. broad. Three parts are bounded by low hills, prettily wooded ; one end opens into the plain, finely ter¬ minated by the Breidden Hills, which form a conspicuous feature in this county and part of Shropshire. The Frynwy, a beautiful river, winds along the middle of the vale; it’s borders rich in wheat, rye, and grass. Meifod is said to have been the archdeaconry of all Powysland, and that it had 2churchesbesdes thepres- ent. In the principal church were inter¬ red the princes and great men of Powis ; as Madoc ap Mcrcdydd up Blyddyn ap Cyu- fyn, prince of Powys, who died at Win¬ chester, in 1160, and was conveyed hith¬ er ; and the noble Gryffydd Maelor, lord of Bromfield, who died in 1188. This place is supposed to have derived it’s name from Meudwyfod, implying the habitation of a hermit. Lan in welsh is added to words to denote an enclosure, as corphlan, a churchyard ; corlan, a sheep- fold ; hence Meudwylan would signify the premises belonging to a hermit. Add a roman termination, and it will make 773 LLANFYLLIN. Meudwylanium, or Mediolanum, answer¬ ing to the name of a place in the Itiner¬ ary, which is placed between Bangor (Bo- viurn) and Bowton, (Betunium .) Hence most antiquaries fix here this roman sta¬ tion. Few are the vestiges which re¬ main to support this conjecture, but it should be considered that “ Time con¬ sumes the skeletons of cities, and buries even ruins themselves.” The church of Mcifod stands in a cemctary of 9 acres dedicated to St. Tyssilio, a prince of Powys, a supporter of the rites of british churches against the innovasions of Austin the monk. Not far above Meifod, two rivers, both of the name of Vrynwy, unite. Upon a steep bank above one of them, stood Mathrafel, once the seat of the princes of Powys, now only a farm house. In a wood opposite, called Gzcern ddu, is a circular entrenchment. The country, for 7m. continues hilly, abound¬ ing witli unpleasant moors. Reached Gregynnog, the seat of Charles Hanbury, esq. a good old family mansion, neither fortunate in situation or elegance, yet eminent as having been the residence of Arthur Blayney, esq. a man who may be justly ranked with him of Ross. The door of Blayney was equally open to the titled tourist and to the “ wretch whose wanderings never knew the world’s re¬ gard.” Patriotism seemed in him an innate principle. He assisted to improve the roads, and the churches he repaired and ornamented. His tenants he considered his friends. To each of his labourers he allowed a little land to support a cow or two, and in winter, often found them hay, gratis. To the poor his charities were diffusive and liberal, but he rather sought the distressed where they had concealed themselves, than favoured the idle, the vag- Tant, and the clamourous. Pennant was conducted hence to Castell Dotforwyn, plac¬ ed upon the high ridge of a hill, almost sur¬ rounded by a wooded dingle. At the bot¬ tom runs a brook which falls into the Sev¬ ern, distant lm. This fortress is very ruinous, and resembles much in it’s ma¬ sonry, Castell dinas bran. On 2 more accessible sides are deep trenches, cut through the rotk. It commands a fine view of the rich vale of the Severn. [See Newport.] Not far distant is Aberfechan, an old house ; which after being inherited by the Blayncys, the Prices, and the LLANGOLLEN. 774 Lloyds, is possessed by the Cliftons. De¬ scend into the vale of Severn, and cross the river by a wooden bridge to Newtown. The road to Welsh Pool lies through a valley, over an indifferent road. About half way, the silent and deep river Fyr- ney is crossed. To Welsh Pool, 12 miles, Wyndham; Skrine. — Newtown, about 16 miles, Pennant. — Shrewsbury, 24 miles. — Oswestry, 14 miles. From Vale Crucis Abhey, 3 miles, Skrine ; Bing- ley; Evans; Gilpin. - Oswestry, 12 miles, Hutton. -Corwen, 10 miles, Evans; Warner. - Chirk, 7 miles, Wyndham; Pennant. - Gresford, 14 miles, Pennant. LLANGOLLEN, (pron. Klangothlin) in the hundred of Chirk, and county of Denbigh, is an ill-looking and meanly built market-town, forming a wretched contrast to the scenery which surrounds it. The bridge over the Dee is formed of 5 irregular narrow pointed arches, and was erected in 1346, by John Trevor, bishop of St. Asaph, who died in 1337. The bed of the river is one continued sur¬ face of solid rock. In or about the Church there appears nothing remarkable. It is a discharged vicarage ; the bp. of St. Asaph, patron. In 1801 the population of this town amounted to 1287 inhabitants, and contained 289 houses. The name of it’s patron saint is of extraordinary length; i. e. St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg ap Cowdra ap Caradog Freichfras an Lleyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunedda Wledig. From the church-yard is a view of the Dee, but the perspective is not very pleasing, beingwhat painters call a study rather than a composition. “ From this stand is a good view of Croze Castle, which is no very picturesque object; but it breaks the line of the round hill, on which it stands. Upon the spot, however is a scene of grandeur, not occupying less space through it’s whole circumference than | of a mile. It has withstood the storms of many a century ; and tho’ in the most exposed situation, still preserves a form; shewing here and there, the remnant of a tower, the fragment of a wall, and other vestages, from which it’s ancient prowess may be traced. There is a meagre spring within it’s precincts, which is always dry before the end of LLANGOLLEN. 776 summer.” Such is the opinion of Giipin. Another writer has said, “The visitor will be repaid for a walk to the elevated and spacious church-yard, which flanked by vast mountains in the back, and side screens, with the river rushing violently under the bridge, in front, overtopped by the lofty hill, on which stands Dinas Bran, affords a very grand and pleasing view.” Almost contiguous and overlooking the town, is a neat small building called Plus Nexuydd, in the cottage style, fitted up for it’s present occupiers, lady Eleanor Butler and miss Ponsonby, (the former is of the Ormond family) who have here fixed their residence. The rooms allowed to be inspected by strangers, are elegantly fitted up, and ornamented with drawings of the most picturesque spots in the vi¬ cinity. The window of the dining-room commands a prospect of the mountains; and from the study, containing a good se¬ lection of modern books, appears the well-arranged plantations adjoining. From another, the tower of Llangollen Church alone is visible; the plantations prevent an exhibition of the town. Dinas Bran Castle forms a fine back scene from the grounds. A gravel walk gives the idea of considerable extent. Nature has indeed been favourable, but art has also contributed greatly to embellish this spot. The place is sufficiently secluded, but se¬ clusion is a negative species of happi¬ ness. To the studious, whose resources are at hand in a well chosen library, and in various investigations and literary pur¬ suits, it has abundant charms; to others solitude is but a shelter from the recur¬ rence of what might recall bitter sensa¬ tions ; a refuge from despair; yet, even in this case, often when time has softened affliction, the mind recurs again to an¬ cient habits, wishes for a reinstation to it’s primitive walks, and often returns to a busy and frivolous world. Whatever may have been the original motive for a preference to this spot, these ladies do not live, as has been supposed, in conventual seclusion. They visit the first families in the neighbourhood, and are reciprocally visited by them; not to mention many literary characters who receive great pleasure in surveying the embellishments at Plus Newytlrl. The busy and the med¬ dling have passed various surmises on the inducements which have lead two females to quit the fashionable haunts of men j but with this they have no business. In¬ quisitiveness might with more propriety repose. Inns. The Hand-Inn, under the super¬ intendence of mr. Joseph Phillips, has ris¬ en from infamy, not only to respectability, but to superior elegance and accommoda¬ tion ; from incivility and insolence it has assumed the gentler features of obliging¬ ness ; and from imposition, it has changed to reasonableness of price. The Three Eagles is far from being a bad inn; and at the King’s-head is stabling, and at least one excellent bed, clean rooms, obliging treatment, and moderate charges. Machinery for spinning cotton yarn has been formed in a building near the town. The Market is on Saturday. The Fairs are held on the last Friday in January, March 17, May 31, Aug. 21, Nov. 22. Upon a high conoid hill, about lm. distant from Llangollen, stands Castcll Dinas Bran. The building appears to have been about 300 feet long and 150 broad. On one side it was defended by trenches cut out of the rock. The pres¬ ent remains are a few scattered walls. It’s architecture indicates that it was founded by the Britons; but the period of it’s erection as well as it’s founder’s name, are buried in oblivion. It’s name seems to have been taken from the small river Bran, which runs just below. In 1257, it afforded an asylum, from the fury of his enraged countrymen to Gryffydd ap MadOc, who basely sided with Henry 2, and betrayed his country. In 1390 this castle was inhabited by Myfanvij Fechan, a most beautiful and accomplish¬ ed female, descended from the house of Tudor Trevor. She was beloved by Hoel ap Eynion Llygliw, an illustrious bard, who addressed her in a charming ode. On the n-w. side of the hill is an adjacent vast rock called Craig Eglwyseg, or the Eagle’s rock. For more than £m. this rock lies stratum upon stratum in such a manner as to form a kind of steps paral¬ lel with the horizon, called by naturalists Sexa sedilia, affording a remarkable geologic phenomenon. The prospects from the castle are very extensive, and to those who have not ascended Snowdon orCader Idris, they will appear very ex¬ traordinary. It is remarkable that consid- ing this lull is nearly 600 yards in. per- 778 777 LLANGOLLEN. pendicular height, that the two wells, within the castle walls, are never defi¬ cient in water. Plants. Upon the n. wall grows the Pyrus hybrida; upon other parts of the walls Hieracium muro- rum. Upon the n. side of the Dee, a- bout3m. from Llangollen, upon a rising slope of a finely wood-clad hill, stands Brinkinallt , lately new-fronted and goth- icised, formerly a large brick mansion. It was built by the father of sir John Tre¬ vor, and descended to the Hills, it being the property of Arthur Hill, baron Dun¬ gannon. Sir John Trevor was a highly distinguished and eccentric character. Having been bred to the law, he attained some of it’s eminent honours and emolu¬ ments. He held the office of master of the rolls in the reign of James 2, but was so unpopular as to have been ranked with Jefferies. In 1694, he was expelled from the chair of the house of commons for receiving a bribe of 1000 guineas from the coffers of the metropolis, as an induce¬ ment for endeavouring to expedite the Orphan Bill, a work of mercy, which a good man would leave performed from the .superior motives of duty and compassion. The character of Trevor was harshness, bordering upon settled severity, and his countenance expressed it. See an excel¬ lent portrait of him in Yorke’s “ Royal Tribes.’-’ When mr. Bingley visited this place, he made an excursion to the famous Aqueduct for conveying the Elles¬ mere canal across a valley over the river Dee, which he thus describes. “ I cross¬ ed the bridge and went down the road, on the n. side of the river, which leads to Ruabon and Wrexham. The scenery in this direction was pretty, but from the lowness of the road it had nothing par¬ ticularly interesting. The mostbeautilul prospects are had by looking back towards the town, where the castle, from it’s great elevation, almost always formed a very conspicuous feature, and where the Dee in many places added considerable beau¬ ties to the scene. I passed Trevor-liall, the tamily mansion of the Lloyds, finely seated upon an eminence above tlip road. Having proceeded somew-hat more than 4m. I turned along a road on the r leading over the Dee, at Pont y CysylUau. A few hundred yards below, is the canal which passed across the vale of Llangollen and the river Dec upon an aqueduct supported by ] 1 handsome square stone columns, at the height of 120 feet above the surface of the water. From a tablet on one of them I copied the following inscription. “The nobility and gentry of the adjacent coun¬ ties having united their efforts with the great commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union be¬ tween England and N. Wales, by a navig¬ able communication of the 3 rivers, Sev¬ ern, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont Cysylltau, to be laid, on the 25th day of July 1795, when Richard Middleton of Chirk, esq m.p. one of the original pat¬ rons of the Ellesmere canal, was lord of this manor, and in the reign of our sover¬ eign George the third, when the equity of the laws and security of property, pro¬ moted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved by his example.’’ The navigation over this aqueduct was opened 29th November, 1805. Length of the iron work 1007 feet. Height from the surface of the rock, on the s. side of the river to the top of the side plates, 126 feet 8 inches. Breadth of the water way, within the iron work 11 feet 10 inches. Number of the stone pillars besides abut¬ ments, 18. Distance of ditto from each other at the top, 45 feet. Depth of the iron plates, for the canal part, 5 feet 3 inches. Length of the earthen embankment, s. side of the river, 1503 feet 8 inches. Height of ditto at the s. abutment, 75 feet. The sandstone with which this aqueduct is built, as well as that over the Ceiriog at Chirk, is perhaps equal in beauty and durability to Bath or Portland stone. A good view of this aqueduct was engraved by F. Jukes, from a drawing by mr. John Parry, of Bryn y Ffynnon ; published in 1806. Mr. Bingley returned to Llan¬ gollen by the Oswestry road on the s. side of the river ; which is considerably elevated above the bottom of the vale, and whence all the surrounding objects, may be seen to great advantage. From these steep banks, the Dee’s transparent stream winds in elegant curves, along the woody meadows below. The mountains on the opposite sideof the vale are finely varied in shape and colour ; and Trevor-hall, seated upon it’s eminence, assists to decorate the 779 LLANGOLLEN. 780 scene. Hence Castell Dinas Bran, and it’s tion, by which a uniformity prevails, and conical hill, seems to close up the end of beauty and variety of prospect subsides, the vale, and imperiously command the About 4m, beyond, at a place called Sych- country around. This sylvan vale, justly nant, is the site upon which stood the celebrated for it’s numerous beauties, af- palace of Owen Glyndwr. It is marked by a fords many picturesque and highly roman- small clump of furs upon an eminence on tic scenes.” ther. An oak wood is on the 1. Except Mr. Pennant says, “I know noplace here and there, a few scattered stones up- in N. Wales, where the refined lover of on the ground, no remnant of such palace picturesque scenes, the sentimental, or appears. The spot was surrounded with the romantic tourist can give into a fuller only one trench, which was deep, for the indulgence. No place abounds more ground being elevated above the Dee, with various rides or solemn walks. From which runs 20 yards behind it, a deep cut this central spot, he may, as I have done, supplied the water from the river. The visit the seat of Owen Glyndwr, and the moat is nearly square, including not a fine vallies of the Dee, to it’s source, be- quarter of an acre, which refutes what yond the great Llyn tegid; or pass the Owen’s bard, Iolo Goch sung. “That mountains to the fertil e vale of Clioyd or his house was as large as Westminster make the tour of Wrexham ; or visit the Hall.” There is a small swell near the places which I have just left.” Notwith- centre where the house stood. HereGlvn- Standing this opinion has been given by dwr lived the life of a little sovereign in the discriminating and indefatigable Pen- his own dominions, till a quarrel arose be- nant, and tho’ Llangollen has long been tween him and his neighbour, lord Grey, the subject of much encomium, both in of Ruthin castle, 12m. distant, now in prose and verse, the opinion of other trav- ruins. Their manors were contiguous, ellers declare that it cannot, in richness. Grey wished to confine Glyndwr within be compared with the vale of CKvyd ; nor the bounds of the Dee, and claimed the equal in picturesque scenery, to the vale hills n. of the river, at the back of Glyn- ofFestiniog. The Eglwyseg rocks, a torm- dwr’shouse. This unjust seizure produc- al range of limestone on the n-e. side, ed a suit. Owen gained it. But Henry greatly disfigure some of it’s most beauti- 4 acceding to the crown, favoured the ful scenes; but the prospect towards the cause of Grey against his antagonist, and plain of Salop and upwards, is uncommon- revived the quarrel, which lasted many ly striking and beautiful. years. By this means he sacrificed a hun- The country from Llangollen to Cor- dred thousand lives, destroyed immense wen is highly interesting. The pictur- property, burnt numerous habitations, and esque vale of Crucis extends, for about a excited that animosity which is not yet mile, when Glyn Dyfrdwy, (the valley of wholly extinguished. Grey was the most the Dee) once the property of Owen powerful in arms, Glyndwr in stratagem. Glyndwr, opens. The mountains here Grey was backed by the crown, Glyndwr are high and their features bold and prom- by his faithful Welsh. Glyndwr expect- inent. The river winds and the vale is ing a visit from Grey, drove a great num- so irregular as to produce a continued ber of stakes into the ground, and cover- variety of Landscape. At the distance of ed each with a cap and jacket, which 3 miles appears Llandysilio Hall , the fami- Grey mistaking for an army in battalia, ly seat of the Joneses, upon a woody flat, retreated. Wishing to take Grey in am- near the opposite edge of the Dee. About bush, he ordered the shoes of his horses §m. beyond Llandysilio is a lofty hill, to to be reversed, in order to cause the cne- which a gentle ascent leads from the road, my to think he was running away, which The entire vale and all it’s windings, with succeeding, Grey became his prisoner, the serpentising Dee appears immediately The dc-scendents of Grey were afterwards buneath. Castell Dinas Bran seems placed dukes of Kent. The room is still in be- upon a lower eminence. The vale of Llan- ing at Machynlleth wherein Glyndwr held gollen and the flat country beyond, for his parliament, and where he took upon many miles, may be seen hence, termin- himself, with the consent of the states, ated by distant mountains. After the 4th the sovereignty of Wales. As the power mile-stone the road has a straight direc- of England was superior to that of Wales 782 781 LLANGOLLEN. Glyndwr, at length was subdued, and af¬ terwards lived in retirement. Three of his daughters were married to 3 Hereford¬ shire gentlemen, whose descendents are in high life ; i.e. Croft, Monnington, and Scudamore. Owen Glyndwr was the greatest general Wales ever produced ; the scourge of the English, a tormenting thorn to Henry 4, and the ruin of his coun¬ try. The family name of this extraordi¬ nary character was Fychan; he is styled Glyndwr, or Glyndwrdwy, from his pos¬ sessions lying principally in the vale of Dee, (Dwrdwy) now called the vale of Llangollen. He was fourth in descent from Gruffydd Fychan, the surviving son of Gryflfydd ap Madoc, lord of Bromfield and Yale, whose residence was Castell Dinas Bran. By his mother’s side he was allied to the N. Wallian Princes, from which descent he derived his claim to the throne of Wales. Writers vary re¬ specting the time of his birth, some fixing that event to the year 1349 and others to 1354. He died on the 20th Sep. 1415, in the 61st year of his age, at the house of one of his daughters > but whether that of Scudamore or Monnington is uncertain. It is said he was buried in the church-yard of Monnington, but there is no memorial of him. For 2m. before Cowen is ar¬ rived at, the vale completely changes it’s aspect. It is destitute of wood, the mountains are cultivated, and the Dee as¬ sumes a placid form. On the road to Chirk, 5m. occurs the famous boundary between England and Wales, called Clawdd Offa, or Offa’s Dyke. This boundary is often mistaken and con¬ founded with Watt’s Dyke. Both are ac¬ curately delineated in Evans’s Map of N. Wales, and in Smith’s 2 sheets map. Mr. Warner made an Excursion from Llangollen to Crucis-Abbey, and Dinas- Bran Castle. Afterward she visited Pont y Cysylltau, thence, returning from the river, and passing over a hill of rich and pro¬ ductive limestone, he crossed into the old Oswestry road, and continued in it till he reached a farm called Fron farm. In a field belonging to this estate, and im¬ mediately adjoining to the turnpike-road, is a knoll, or elevation, commanding a prospectwonderfully extensive and diver¬ sified ; the vale of Llangollen, and it’s surrounding mountains, the hills of Chesh¬ ire and Shropshire, the mazy windings of the Dee, and the rich country through which it flows; the mansions of Chirk Castle and Wynnstay ; with other ele¬ gant seats, and a large portion of 13 coun¬ ties. He then quitted the turnpike-road, and bent his course towards Chirk Castle, through the Park. Mr. Skrine, under the escort of an ig¬ norant guide, crossed the Berwyn, to the tolerable inn of Llanrhaiadyr, whence he proceeded down a rough lane to the celebrated cataract of Pistyl Rhaiadyr. To Ruabon, or Rhiwabon, the banks of the Dee is followed for a while, water¬ ing a beautiful narrow vale. The hills at length aproximate so nearly, as only to leave room for a most picturesque passage shaded with trees. Cross the New¬ bridge, and ascend for some space, leaving upon the 1. considerable pits of coal. On the road a o Loan Rhaiadyr, occurs the village of Llansantffra'ul, 3m. situated in Glyn Ceiriog or the valley of the Ceiriog; following the course of the Ceiriog for 3m. occurs the village of Llanarmon, where the vale becomes enlarged and cultivated, and hence is called Duffryn Ceiriog. This village lies in the hundred of Yale, and was once famous as the resort of pilgrims with offerings to Saint Armon. In the Church is a monument inscribed, “ Hie jacet Gruffydd Llewelyn ap Ynyr,” with 5 bloody fingers on his shield, and a dog at his feet, carved upon the lid of a stone coffin. In this district are many tumuli, composed of loose stones and earth, un¬ der a layer of soil, 2 feet thick, and a coat of turf, in some of which have been found several urns, reversed, and sometimes a flat stone without urns ; also considerable fragments of burnt bones. [See 439.] Entering the cross road from the Berwyn mountains, you regain that which was left near Llan Cadwalader, i£m. To Llan¬ rhaiadyr the distance is 4m. Midway, a- bout 1 m. to the r. is Llanarmon By chan. To Oswestry, the road lies upon an ascent producing a delightful retrospect. For 3 or 4m. the Dee continues on the 1. disfigured by a feeder above it, cut to the Ellesmere Canal. Business is little at¬ tentive to picturesque beauty, or this might be rendered of trifling detriment by a range of plantations. Hence appears to great advantage the aqueduct Ponty- sylltau over the Dee. [see 777.] The environs of this place are thickly bestud- 1 783 LLANGOLLEN. ed with habitations of various sizes, so as to suggest the idea of the contiguity of some populous town. Among these are Trevor-hall, Wynnstay, and Chirk Castle. Quit the course of the Dee and enter a rich champaign country. At Chirk is another aqueduct of lesser dimensions. Immediately after quitting this place enter Shropshire, and passing over a level road through the little village of Gobowen, soon arrive at Oswestry. To Ruthin, reach Pentre Felin, lm. If. (on the r. Dinbrcn-hall, rev. Edward Rob¬ erts, Lla'i Egwest Abbey, Jm. Leave on the r. Fron fawr, and Tyn y pislil a lit¬ tle to the r. (Craig Eghvyseg, lies 2m. to the r.) Leave nearer to the road, Mocl Eglwys Eagle, and Tan y Bwlch; on 1. Crib yn oernant, through Bwlc/t yr rhiw- felen, to Pentre Bzvlch turnpike, 3m. 7f. Pass Tafarn Dowyrck, and lea ve Llandcgle lm. to the r. to Faniol, 3^m. Craigfeckan, l^m. (Itm. beyond, on the 1. Carte Gyn- nan, col. Rich. Kenrick ; and Plasnewydd, D. Shuckforth, esq.) Ruthin, 3m. 7f. To Valle Crucis Abbey, 2| miles, Pennant. — Valle Crucis Abbey, back to Llangollen, thence to Chirk Castle, Evans. — Corwen, 10 miles, Bingley; Hutton. — Chirk Castle, 9 miles, Warner; Gilpin. — and from Valle Crucis, 5 miles; to and from Castle Dinas Bran, 4 miles; to Corwen, It) miles, Wyndham. — Oswestry, 12 miles. — Llanrhaiadyr, il miles,Skrine. — Kuabon, 6 miles, Pennant. — Ruthin, 13§ miles. — Denby,2l§ miles. — Bala, 22 miles. — Wrexham, 12 miles. From Bala, !0,y miles, Bingley. -Llanrhaiadyr, yn Mochnant,4L miles, Aikin. Mr. Pennant passed from Downing to this place, on setting out on his third excursion in N. Wales, where he began his account. LLANGYNNOG or Llangannoch, (the church of St. Cyuog) is a small village in the hundred of Llanfyllin, and county of Montgomery. It is a discharged rec¬ tory ; the bp. of St. Asaph patron. In 1801 the population of this parish was 227, it’s dimensions is 4m. square. It is situated in a pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of coarse slate, abounding with white opaque amorphous quartz, in which are found considerable quantities of lead and calamine; these are sent in LLANGYNNOG, 784 their raw state to the founderies near Ruabon. None of the shafts, however, run to any considerable depth, nor are any engines made use of, except a single wheel and bucket. The great lead-mine of Llangynnog, called Craig y mwyn, was discovered in 1692, when the vein of ore was 3§ yards thick and afforded, for the space of 40 years, a clear annual revenue of 20,000 1. At the depth of 100 yards the water broke in, which caused the un¬ dertaking to be given up. It is situated 2§ miles from the village, in the moun¬ tainous ridge which divides the vales of Rhaiadyr and Tinnad. Opposite the first mentioned lead-mines, on the other side of the village, rises almost perpen¬ dicular, the lofty rock of Llangynnog, from which is obtained a considerable quantity of coarse slates: they are brought down in a very singular manner. The vehicle of conveyance is a small sledge, containing 3 or 4 cwt. of slate ; on the fore part of it is fastened a short rope by each end. When loaded and drawn to the edge of the declivity, a man places himself before it, with the rope round his shoulders, then sitting upon the sledge and seizing hold of the front, he raises his feet from the ground, when the load and it’s conductor begin to descend, along a narrow winding path. The motion ac¬ celerates, and the manager of this strange conveyance has to govern it’s increasing velocity, and to keep it in it’s proper path by opposing his feet to the ground and projecting parts of the rocks. The least inattention or want of dexterity, would be certain destruction. Yet this man makes these journies 4 or 5 times a day for the scanty sum of two-pence a time. The road to Bala hence lies along the pleasing vale of Llangynnog, enclosed on all sides by the Berwyn mountains. This ridge occupies the e. side of Merioneth¬ shire, and branches into Denbighshire and Montgomeryshire; it’s n. boundary is the Dee, it’s s. the Tannad. From n. to s. it’s length is 16m.; it’s breadth from e. to w. varies from 5 to 10. Cacler Ferwyu is near the southern and Coder Fronwyn near the northern extremity, and are the most elevated points. The road runs along the side of the hills considerably above the level of the valley, which at the distance of 3m. ascends from the vale, and is car- 785 LLANGYNNOG. ,r ried for 7m. across the Berwyn mountains. At length the traveller attains the brow 1 of a hill, whence the vn.lt of the Dee, is overlooked, affording a most delightful view. An easy descent leads to Llamler- ' fel, a small village beautifully situated on the river side. Crossing the bridge and meeting the stream the prospect is grand, in which the cloudy summits of Aran-ben- Llyn and Aran-fowddy, soaring to a vast height, form the extreme boundary. The nearer part is filled on one side with wooded bills, contrasting with a rugged slate rock on the other, between which rolls the dusky Dee. From Llangynnog inr. Pennant turned up a valley to the r. to pay his respects at the shrine of St. Monacella, or Melangell, who was buried in the neighbouring church called Pennant Melangell. The legend of this saint is perpetuated by some rude wooden carvings, with numbers of hares scuttling to her for protection. She be¬ came their patroness. Previous to the 16th century, no person would kill a hare in the parish; and since, when a hare was pursued by dogs, it was firmly be¬ lieved, that if any one cried, “God and saint Monacella be with thee,” it was certain to escape. It is lamentable that the increasing inhumanity of later times has obliterated this amiable superstition. Alas, the timidity and inoffensiveness of the hare meets with no protector in this ferocious age ! In the church-yard is a stone bearing the figure of an armed man, which now serves as a common grave¬ stone, but once covered the remains of the eldest sonofOwen Gwynedd, Jorwerth Drwyndwn. Tradition says he was killed not far hence, at a place called Builch Croes Jorwerth. The valley is exceeding¬ ly picturesque ; inclosed by hills on all sides, except it’s entrance; and watered by the Tanad, which rises not far distant. On this river it is supposed that the roman station of Mediolanum was placed. The upper end is bounded by two vast preci¬ pices ; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel ddu mawr. On the side of this valley is the house of Llech- weddgarth, the residence of Tho. Thomas, esq. To Llanrhaiadyr, miles, Wyndham; Bingley. — Bala, 11 miles, Aikin. — Llanfyllin, 8 nriles, Pennant. LLANIIAIARN. 786 LLANHAIARN, or Llan Elhaiarn, from the saint’s name to which it is dedi¬ cated, is a small village in the hundred of Uwch Gwyrfai, upon the w. coast of the promontory of Llyn in Caernarvonshire. It’s white-washed church, stationed upon an elevated site, becomes a useful land¬ mark to the distant mariner, and the llhi- fel or Eifl rocks, with forked summits, form a grand and contrasting back ground. It is a discharged rectory ; the bp. of Ban¬ gor, patron. In 1801 the population of the parish amounted to 542. Near the church is a fine well, once much frequent¬ ed for it’s reputed sanctity. The festival is held on the 1st of November. Upon this mountainous ridge, is what mr. Pen¬ nant describes as “ the most perfect and magnificent, as well as the most artfully constructed british post he ever beheld. It is called 7 re’r Caeri, or the town of for¬ tresses.” The only accessible side was delended by 3 walls, the first imperfect, the 2d nearly entire, and the 3d ranges unequally round the highest verge of the lull. They appear to have been properly faced, are very lofty, and exhibit from be¬ low, a grand and extensive front. The area is irregularly shaped, and about the centre is a quadrangular space, fenced with stone, and surrounded with 2 rows of cells; many similar ones are scattered about the surface. These fragments of habitations are variously formed; circular, oblong, and square ; some 15 and others 30 feet in diameter, with long entrance passages, faced with stone. From many eminences in this vicinity, being fortified in a similar manner, this part of the coun¬ try seems to have formed one of the re¬ treats, to which the discomfited britons re¬ sorted to escape the fury of their saxon invaders. Among the number of these eminences, may be mentioned Cam Mad- ryn, Boduan Moel, Ben Twrch, Castell Gwgan, Moel (am Guwck , and Pen y Gaer. After ascending the bwlch of hollow, which separates two sugar-loaf points of the mountains, dividing the hun¬ dred of Llyn from Arfon, and across which extends an immense rampart of loose stones, the ruins of a wall, once forming the defences of this important pass; the descent is into the flat, called Plant y Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigeni’s Valley. It was to this spot that that unfortunate monarch fled from the nge of his insulted 767 LLANIIAIARN. LLANIDAN. 788 1 end injured subjects. Imagination could not form a more secluded retreat. Em¬ bosomed in a lofty mountain, and bound¬ ed by the rocky declivities, it has only one opening, and that towards the sea. A verdant mount in this valley, is said to have been the site of his residence; and a tumulus covered with turf is denominat¬ ed Bedel Gwrtheyrn, or the tomb of Vor- tigern. While Hugh Roberts was minis¬ ter of this parish, this earn was dug open and a stone coffin containing the bones of a tall man was found. To Pwllheli, 9 miles. From Bryn Gwyn, 1 mile, Hutton. -Caernarvon, by way of Newborough, 11 miles, Pennant. LLANIDAN, a village in the hundred of Menai, Anglesea, not far from which is the spot where the romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who mur¬ dered the Britons by thousands. It is called by Rowlands Maes Mazur Gad, the great army’s field. It lies 300 yards from the Menai and consists of about 20 acres. The Romans entered the water about 200 yards s. of Llanfair-iscar church, where the shore is flat, the water shallow, and only Jm. wide. At low water and a neap tide, most of the bed is dry. After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives having born the roman yoke 6 years, threw it off, the Druids returned, assumed their authority, property, and pride, which they held till the year 76, when Agricola crossed the Menai, nearly lm. farther n. and landed at a field yet called Pontyr Yscraphie (Bridge of Boats) where the same tragedy was repeated in this and the two adjoining fields called Lluuai- lyzuyon, and Bryn Lader. In the Church is a reliquary, made, not of gold or silver, nor ornamented with precious stones, but of very ordinary grit-stone, called Macn Mordhzuyd, or the stone of the thigh. Giraldus say s it was so con¬ stant to one place, that let it be carried ever so far, it would return at night. Hugh Lupus, earl of Chester, determined to sub¬ due it’s loco-motive faculties, fastened it with a chain to a far greater stone, and flung it into the sea; but to the astonish¬ ment of all beholders, it was found next morning in it’s usual place ! ! It is cer¬ tainly now well secured, for it forms a part of the wall of the church. It is a discharged vicarage, with the chapelries of Llanedwen, Llanddeiniol fab, and Llan- fair yn y cwmwd ; lord Boston, patron. In 1801 the population of this parish was 761. The Church was built in the year 616. It once belonged to the convent of Beddcelert; in 1536 it followed the fate of that house. Queen Elizabeth granted it to Edmund Downham and Peter Ashton, who sold it in 1605, to Richard Prytherch, of Myfyrian, whose daughter married a Llwyd, of Lugwy. On the extinction of that family all their estates were bought by lord Uxbridge, who left them to his nephew sir William Irby, the late lord Boston. The parish contains about 3000 acres of land, generally enclosed. Here is a seat formerly belonging to lord Boston, which commands a beautiful prospect of Caernarvon and the Snowdon hills. It is called Plus Llanidan; at present in the oc¬ cupation of Owen Williams, esq. Llanidan is distinguished as having been the resi¬ dence of mr. Thomas Williams, who from an obscure situation, by dint of superior abilities and indefatigable application to business, raised himself to an honourable station in life. He was articled to an at¬ torney in Beaumaris, and in his practice afterwards was eminent in legal skill and activity. He obtained the lucrative situa¬ tion of manager to the Parys mountain mines. During Williams’s superinten¬ dance the quantity of copper raised a- mounted to about 4000 tons per annum. For the disposal of this immense quantity subordinate companies of smelters, refin¬ ers, and manufacturers were formed at Holywell, Swansea, Ravenhead, Birm¬ ingham, Marlow, and Wraysbury; and warehouses were opened at Liverpool, Bristol, and London. These concerns in¬ volved a fluctuating property of at least one million sterling. Over these Wil¬ liams presided sole director. His natural endowments and constitutional habits well qualified him for conducting any concern however ponderous. Indefatigi- blc was he in attention, penetrating in judgment, prompt in discrimination, and pertinacious in execution. These unre- mitted labours produced to him, being a partner in the concern, a splendid for¬ tune. He had five country seats, i. e. at Temple, Horton, Wraysbury, Marl, and Llanidan. He died at Bath, under an asth- •89 LLANIDAN. LLANIDLOES. 790 ,mafic complaint, Nov. 30, 1801, aged 66, houses. They are mostly built of timber md was interred at Llanidan, among those whom he had both enriched and benefit¬ ed. At Tre’r Dryw. or the habitation of the arch-druid, mr. Pennant met with the mutilated remains described by Row¬ lands. His Bryn Gwyn or Brein Gwyn, (royal tribunal) is a circular hollow of 180 feet in diameter, surrounded by an im¬ mense agger of earth and stones. Not far from it was one of the Gorseddau, now much dispersed, but once consisted of a great copped heap of stones, upon which sate aloft the druid while he instructed the people. Here were also the reliques of a circle of stones, with a cromlech in the midst, now extremely imperfect. Two of the stones are very large; one serving for the end of a house. It is con¬ jectured, by Rowlands, that the whole of these remains were surrounded with a circle of oaks, forming a deep grove. Near this is Caer-leb, or the moated en¬ trenchment ; of a square form, with a double rampart. Within are foundations of circular and of square buildings At Trcf wry, are several faint traces of circles of stones, and other vestiges of buildings, all much delapidated, or covered by weeds. Bod-druidian (the abode of the druids), Tre’r Beirdd (that of the bard), and Bodwyr (that of the priest), are all ham¬ lets, nearly surrounding Guerleb, the seat of the chief druid; at the last is a crom¬ lech resting upon 3 stones. At Bryn Gwydryn, behind Llanidan, are 2 or 3 dikes and fosses, of a semicircular form, each end of which terminates at a preci¬ pice, leaving an intervening area. Plants. In dry meadows near Llani¬ dan grows the Salvia pratensis. Near the church Valeriana rubra. To I.lanedwen, 2 miles, Hutton. — Plas Newydd, 3 miles, Pennant. — Caernarvon, 5 miles. from Machynllaeth, 16 miles, Blngley. -Newtown, lJj miles. Pennant; Skrine; Evans. LLANIDLOES, in the hundred of Llanidloes, Montgomeryshire. The en¬ trance into this town from the n. is over a long wooden bridge erected in 1741, acros the Severn. The streets form right angles. The situation is pleasant, and the different areas spacious, yet there are few good frames, and the intermediate spaces form¬ ed with “wattle and dab,’ - that is, laths or sticks, intertwined,and the intersticeSj plaistered up with mud. The streets have much need of the scavenger’s labour. The Church is dedicated to saint Idloes; is a discharged vicarage, the bishop of Bangor, patron. The ceiling is formed of curiously carved oak. The nave is separ¬ ated from the aisle by circular columns, surrounded by round pillars, ending in capitals of palm leaves, which support 6 pointed arches. The upper parts are de¬ corated with winged figures, each of which exhibits a shield, charged with coats of arms. The ornamental parts are said to be brought from the abbey of Cwnr- hir in Radnorshire, with which account the date of the roof corresponds. The Market-House stands nearly in the centre of the town, and is an ordinary low build¬ ing. The Market is on Saturday. The Fairs are held on the first Saturday in April, 11th of May, Saturday before the 24th of June, 17th of July, 2d Saturday in September, and 28th ot October; be¬ sides sheep fairs, which are holden by the shepherds of N. and S. Wales, every Thursday between the 26th of May and 26th of June. The petty Sessions for the hundred of Llandiloes are holden here. It was once a contributory borough to Montgomery ; but was disfranchised at the same time with Pool, and Llanfyllin. It retains, notwithstanding, the nominal appendages of a corporate town, in a may¬ or and subaltern officers. This parish consists of the townships of Brithdir, Cil Machen, Glyn Hnfren, Is Coed, Manleoedd, Morfordion, Trejlin, and Ystrad Dunod. In 1801 the number of houses was 498, and of inhabitants 2282. These are chief¬ ly employed in agriculture, or in manu¬ facturing flannel; in which article a con¬ siderable trade is carried on. Several factories with machinery for carding and spinning wool have been erected in the vicinity. The Alba Mill, belongs to messrs. Herbert and Britton, who send most of their goods to the London market. The diminution of manual labour by machinery have increased the poor-rates 20 times, since 1744. From 1799, to 1801, a space of 2 years, the increase was from 817/. 19s. 4r/. to 1634/ 18s. 9r/.! The heads of families and single persons re- 791 LLANIDLOES. 792 ceiving w eekly pay are 265. A coarse slate abounds in the neighbouring hills, and a good building stone, composed of schistns, which appears to be trapping into hornblende. From this place the route to the mountain of Plinlimmon is generally made. Inn. The New Inn ranks foremost as a house of reception to the well-equipped traveller. In EXPLORING THE SEVERN TO IT’S source erom Llandiloes, the vale con¬ tracts so much at Glyn Hafren as to confine the waters within a very narrow bed. The following is the rev. J. Evans’s ac¬ count of his Excursion. “ Wearied with following the meanderings of the river, and meeting with few plants which are not found upon the banks of most streams, our anxiety increased to discover it’s ap¬ pearance at it’s source ; we had however 12m. to pass. The vale was shut in by lofty mountains to the r. and 1. through the apertures of which several streams rolled down the cwms to bring their tri¬ butary waters to the Severn. Wc pressed forwards, sometimes along the trackless vale, sometimes ascending the steep ac¬ clivities of the mountain barrier, to obtain a sight of the surrounding country ; pass¬ ing here and there a miserable farm and cottage, destitute of inhabitants. This is literally a land of sheep walks, and of shepherds, tho’ not of arcadian scenes. Continuing our journey, with the Biga mountains on our r. and those which sep¬ arate the vale of the Wye from the vale of the Severn on our 1., we met with little worthy of observation, save the Jassione montana, and a few plants, the common inhabitants of boggy soils. The distance between the Severn and the Wye is here not 2m. Suddenly, however, the Ardua Moles of Plinlimmon rose in sullen gran¬ deur before us; the vale opening to the i*. and s., discovered the mountain, ap¬ pearing with less abruptness and eleva¬ tion than we had expected. It’s sides, as well as the adjacent hills, were totally destitute of wood. Another account of an excursion to Plinlimmon mountain appears in the “Beauties of England,’ and is in substance as follows. To Plinlimmon proceed up the Severn to Mdin Fclindrc, where is a small romantic cataract. Six m. up at Gafron is an old eopper-work. Ascend to Glyn Hafren, a well cultivated farm. Descend into a boggy vale, by a very difficult road, run¬ ning in a winding manner, along the pre¬ cipitous side of a hill. Proceed along morassy banks having the Biga mountains on the r. and those which separate the Severn from the Wye on the 1. meet with the little river Se, coming from the s-w. and forming a junction with the Hafren. The vale next diverging to the n. and s. developes the mountain. Reach Blaen Hafren, a farm-house, occupied by mr. Edward Rowlands. The sheep are a pe¬ culiar race. Near this house the Severn rolls over a lofty ledge of slate rock. The stream may be lollowed through a dreary district to a chasm of schistose rock. In advancing to the source this embrio river becomes a mere ditch, running through marshy ground. At a short distance is the head or spring, which is here a strong chalybeate water, leaving a deposit of pure ochre, of a fine orange colour, several inches in thickness. The chasm continues several yards higher than the spring; it’s sides exhibit several feet in depth of peat earth, resting upon a deep bed of white marl. In the vicinity grow Vitis idaea, Butomus umbellatus, Carex pauciflora, Schoenus nigricans, Scirpus lacustris, Scirpus palustris, and Eriophor- um polystachion. [See Plinlimmon.] Quitting the banks of the Severn, mr. Skrine advanced towards the Wye, and af¬ ter a ride of several miles, unmarked by any pleasing object, descended to that river, at the melancholy village of Llan- gerig, and tracing it for some time, after¬ wards crossed it by a stony ford, where it is little more than a rivulet. The road then became inexpressibly laborious and frightful, being carried over a narrow shelf of the impending precipices. At length he reached one of the heights of these precipices, descended precipitately to the banks of the Rhydol, and reaching the village of Spwlty, soon afterwards crossed his original track from Aberyst- with to lihaiadyr, near Pont y Monach. Passing beneath the woods of Hafod, he descended to the banks of the Tcify, to visit the mouldering remains of Strata Florida Abbey. The road to Newtown from Llanidloes is more highly cultivated than in the in¬ terior of Wales. The river Severn glides smoothly and silently, almost all the way, 793 LLANIDLOES, contiguous to the road. After having passed the village of Llanddinam, 6|m. the river may be crossed to Caer-sws, now a small hamlet, but formerly a roman station. The site of the encampment is yet discernable, being a rampart of about 150 yards square. On the n-w. side are hollows, which were probably part of the fosses of the old precincts. [From this station the romans had a road, called Sarn-sws or Sarn-Swsan, which is supposed to have led to Chester. There are remains of 3 encampments in it’s vicinity, Ilhosddiarbed, Gwynfynydd y gaer fcchan, and Cefyncarncdd .] Return to Pen y strywad, 3£m. thence to New¬ town, 3m. The Rosa villosa grows in the hedges almost all the way. To Pont y Mynach, upon the great road, pass Ctvm Elan, or, as formerly, Cum Brochan, 2m. Llangeneg, 3|m. Cross the Bulno river, and continue with the Wye on the 1.; cross the latter at Pont Rhyd y Garrcg, -l^m. proceed w ith the Ter renig river on the 1. to Steddfa Gerrig, 3m. 3f. Sputhy Ce’n IVyn, 5m. Cross the Mynach river over Pont y Mynach, or the Devil’s Bridge, Hafod Anns Inn, lm. If. To Machynllaeth the roads for the first 12m. are so bad that travellers in carriages are necessitated to employ an additional pair of horses. In one part of this track the road runs for fm. not far from a precipice of 50 feet from the rocky stream below. On the outset, the infant Severn is crossed, and the road runs be¬ tween hedgerows of birch and hazel, en¬ closing fields of wheat, oats, and rye. The Ith mile stone opens to alpine sheep- downs, intermingled with morasses, whence peat and turf are dug for fuel. From one of the summits which are fre¬ quent on this road, may be seen a toler¬ ably extensive lake, with finely indented shores, and enclosed in the distance by rugged mountains, the residence of grouse and black game. The Bachwy river originates in this lake. Before reaching the 12th mile-stone a more than usual height is to be gained, which commands a striking view of numerous rugged and abrupt hills. About the 15th mile-stone the land seems to be susceptible of cul¬ tivation producing barley. Within 5m. of Machynllaeth occurs a small pot-house, where not one person understands En- LLANILLTYD. 791 glish. One m. further enter a pleasing vale, watered by a brook which falls into the Dovcy, and by a good and level road proceed amid woods, corn-fields, and farms to the delightfully situated town of Machynllaeth. Back to Newtown, from an excursion to Pljn- limmon, Evans. To Newtown, 13 miles, Bingley; Evans. — Strata Florida, about 20 miles, Skrine. Back to Newtown, 14 miles, Pennant. To Plinliinmon, about 12 miles. — Rbaiadyr, 13 miles. — Pont y Mynach, 20 miles. From Dolgelle, 2 miles, Pennant; Aikin. LLAN1LLTYD is a flourishing village in the hundred of Ardudwy, Merioneth¬ shire, containing several good houses, beautifully situated on the river Maw- ddach, or Maw. It is a curacy not in charge, with the curacy of Llan Fachreth. This parish extends 4 or 5m. in different directions from the church. It contains the Abbey of Cymmer. It’s population in 1801 was 398. The castle of this place is so totally eradicated that it’s site is un¬ known. This place serves as a port to Dolgelle, and many small vessels arc built here. On the river side are lime-kilns. Further down is a forge, a little beyond which a prospect opens which for beauty and picturesque effect can scarcely be equalled. The wide estuary of the Mateddach, appears in front, and is fre¬ quently enlivened by a barge or pleasure- boat ; the banks on each side running out alternately in steep promontories, wooded to the water’s edge, so as com¬ pletely to hide the termination of the riv¬ er, and cause it to resemble a broad and beautiful lake ; while on the s. from be¬ hind the banks, rise abruptly the vast and craggy cliffs which surround and al¬ most conceal, the summit of Cader Idris. The road to Maentwrog lies n. up the vale of the Maw. The river as¬ sumes the character of a wide mountain torrent, leaping over the inequalities of it’s rocky channel, and shaded by the fine hanging woods of Nanneau-parl i, which overspread the steep declivity of the rocks on the r. with their deep and varied foliage. At Pont-ar-Garfa, or the union of the Garfa with the Maw, are beautiful cascades; these, however, dro only introductory to the scenes of gran- 795 LLANILLYD. dcur which are profusely distributed about Cm. higher up the Maw, resembling the romantic views about the Devil’s bridge. Soon after catch a view of Dolymclynlyn Collage , the property of mr Maddocks, but inhabited by mr. Woodcock. It is partly situated among plantations or natur¬ al groves of oak, backed by rugged and almost perpendicular rocks. After cross¬ ing a bridge ascend on the 1. a conveni¬ ent foot path, cut through woods and rocks. After proceeding some way, catch a partial view of Dolymelynlyn Cascade, then cross an alpine bridge thrown over the stream, and pursuing the windings of a rugged path on the r. reach the top of the rocks whence the river is precipitated. The water being obstructed by a project¬ ing part of the rock in the centre, forms two sheets which afterwards unite and fall into a large and deep bason. Regain¬ ing the road, crossing a lofty slate moun¬ tain, and descending on the r. towards the river, the tourist follows a wild path, sometimes hidden among trees at other times skirting the edge of the w'ood, and arrives at Pislyl y Cayne, which is a sin¬ gle sheet of water, consisting of the whole current of the river Cain, dashing down into a deep and rocky bason. When seen from below this sheet appears to great advantage. The water falls into a deep glen with steep rocky sides, shaded by old oaks, crowned w'ith pendent birches, and interspersed with young trees, and a profusion of thick underwood, planted in a very happy style of studied negligence. The neighbouring fall of the Mawddach is 2 or 3 hundred yards dis¬ tant from this place, which bears the same enchanting style, but is more open to the light, and the water falls into a fullerstream, forming two noble cataracts, before it loses itself in the thickets below. See an account of mr. Bingley’s Excursion to the Waterfalls page 471. Regaining the road, the traveller passes through Trawsfynydd, a large village situated in an open barren country, where there is a public-house, but Welsh only is spoken. Previous to approaching this village, observe Harlech mountain on the 1. on the side of which stands the castle, but concealed from the view. This district is very thinly sprinkled with miserable cots and a few patches of oats and rough grass. Passing the vil- LLANLLYFNI. 796 lage, Snowdon appears remotely in front, The road now makes a descent to the vale of Festiniog, and leading through defiles amid woods and rocks the village of Maentwrog is soon attained, where is a comfortable inn. To Maentwrog, 15^ miles, Aikin. —• Barmouth, 10 miles, Pennant. From Clynog, 8 miles, Hutton. -- Caernarvon, 8 miles, Warner. LLANLLYFNI, is a village of the hundred Uwch Gvvyrfai, in Caernarvon¬ shire, beautifully situated among mea¬ dows, bounded by mountains, in the road from Crickaeth to Caernarvon. This is a discharged rectory or vicarage, the bp. of Bangor, patron ; church dedicated to St. Rhediw. The parish is from 3 to 4m. in length, and it’s greatest breadth 2m.; in 1801 the population was 872. The wake is held on July 6. On the way to Caernarvon, Drws y Coed, (door of the wood) may be passed, W'lneh road commands a charming pros¬ pect of Snow'don and his two sons, Cryb y Distyl on the r. and Cryb Goch on the 1. through a vista 8m. long. In this track are the celebrated lakes of Llynniau Nan- tie, in a romantic vale, each nearly lm. long divided by an isthmus, 20 yards wide. On the r. by the lakes, at the foot of the Cader, is a small old house, where Edward 1, delighted with the spot, fre¬ quently spent a fortnight at a time. It was at Drws y Coed whence Wilson took his excellent drawing of Snowdon, but being remotely situated is only visited by ardent tourists. Pennant remarks that the “ completest view of Snowdon is from this place.” Mr. Hutton in quoting this passage from Pennant, remarks that the “ man who becomes an author, ex¬ hibits his own folly,” but does not fur¬ ther explain his meaning. He adds, how¬ ever, that he “could not rest without a sight of this unfrequented spot, tho’ it cost him a walk of 50m. In this day’s excursion from Caernarvon, he says, “ I had 9m. to walk from Drws y Coed, after the sun was set. It was dark ere I reached Caernarvon, and was completely jaded. Those who have not acted like me. will be inclined to say, “ He has ex¬ hibited his own folly.” I can only reply in Irish, “Every man has his hobby- 798 797 LLANRHAIADYR. horse, and I ride mine while I walk on foot.” The water from the copper works of Drwsycoed is said to have injured the fish in these lakes, but there are 2 smaller lakes in the mountain, called Llyn Cwm. Silin, and Llijn Cwm Dylyn, that are more favourable for angling. A large quantity of slate is quarried in this parish, and in that of Llandwrog, which are carted to Caernarvon and thence ex¬ ported. Craig y Ddinas, is a piece of round of a circular form, about 70 yards in diameter. It is steep next the Llyfni, and 2 mo nds run on the opposite side, leaving a ditch between. It is supposed to be an old military position. The tra¬ dition of the parish says, that once a town stood there, with a church, and there is undiscovered money. The poet Michael Pritchard, was born here about 1710, and died in 1731, aged 22. Mr. Owen says that St. Rliediw was buried at this place. His well, his seat, the mark of his thumb, &c. are still shewn. To Pen-morva, mr. Warner deviated to visit the large slate quarries upon the mountain near Llanllyfni, and the lakes of Llynniau Nantle; a walk which pro¬ duced various, sublime, and fantastic ap¬ pearances. To Caernarvon, 8 miles, Hutton. — Penmorva, 11 miles, W arner. «rv /y /y yy yyyy/y yyyyy/ yy yyyy eyyyyy yy yy From Denbigh, miles, Bingley; Pennant. LLANRHAIADYR (the village of the fountain) in the hundred of Is Aled, Den¬ bighshire, is situated upon a small emin¬ ence in the fertile vale of Clwyd. A rec¬ tory and vicarage; bp. of Bangor, patron. In 1801 the population of this parish con¬ taining the townships of Coder Segruit Isa/ and Segruit Uchaf, Clicciedeg and Prion, Llunllech and Uwyn, and Trefydd Byclt- an and Llewcsog, was 1702. The Church is dedicated to St. Dyfnog. A spring at a short distance is called Ffynnon DJyfnog, where once was a bath and a chapel also dedicated to St. Ddyfnog. The Church is a handsome structure, with an elegant e. window ornamented with stained and figured glass, in a high state of preserva¬ tion. The subject is the root of Jesse. The patriarch is represented as extended upon his back, with the genealogical tree, issuing from his loins, comprising all the kings of Israel and Judah, down to the time of the Saviour’s advent. Above is an outline rose, including an eye sur¬ rounded with radiance, and another rose of Lancaster to correspond. The first in¬ dicates omnipotence and the latter that the work was executed after the accession of that house being finished in the year 1533. The colours are remarkably bril¬ liant. The artist has not inscribed his name, so that we know not whether we are indebted to a Baptista Sutton, a Van Linge, or some other artist unenrolled on the list of fame. A similar specimen of the genealogy of our Saviour exists at Selby, in Yorkshire, and in St. Mary’s church, Shrewsbury. A crowded monu¬ ment to the memory of Maurice Jones, esq. affords a specimen of imperfect taste in sepulchral decoration. The effigy is arrayed in a dress gown and curled wig. The sarcophagus is surrounded by mourn¬ ing genii, and other puerile accompani¬ ments. He founded some alms-houses in the year 1720. In the yard occurs an instance of vain ostentation in the sur¬ vivors of John ap Robert, who have given his pedigree up to Cadel. It is as fol¬ lows: “Here lyeth the body of John, ap Robert of Porth, ap David, ap Grif¬ fith, ap David Vauchan, ap Blethan, ap Griffith, ap Meredith, ap Jerworth, ap Llewelyn, ap Jeroth, ap Heilin, ap Cow. ryd,ap Cadvan, ap Alawgwa, ap Cadell, the king of Powis; who departed this lile the xx day of March, in the year of our Lord God 1(343, and of lus age xcv. An Alms-house, founded in 1729, by mrs. Jones of this parish affords an asylum for indigent widows, who are allowed 2s. per week with garden ground. Llan- rhaiadyr-Hall, a good, though ungraceful¬ ly patched mansion is the seat of Richard Wilding, esq. From an eminence call¬ ed Gwladus's chair, n-w. of the church, is a comprehensive view of the valley. The scenery all the way to Ruthin is exceedingly beautiful. To Ruthin, 4miles, Bingley; Pennant. From 1 langynog, 4J m les, Wyndham Bingley. - Llanymynach, 10 miles, Aikln. -Llangollen. 11 miles, Skrine. - Llanfvtlin, 6 miles, Pennant. I.I. ANRHA IADYR YN MOCHNANT in the hundred of Chirk, and counly of Denbigh ; and partly in the hundred of 799 LLANRIIAIADY] Llanfyllin, Montgomeryshire; a rectory and vicarage; bp. of St. Asaph, patron. The Church is dedicated to St. Dogfan. The population of this parish in 1801, was 1869, The petty sessions for the division of Cynllaeth and Mochnant are held here. It is situated at the s. extremity of the county, on the road between Bala and Llanymynach, in a deep hollow, sur¬ rounded on all sides by mountains. The houses are extremely irregular and old, yet give from many points, an addition to the landscape. The Church is rather a good building, and the vicarage rich. The parish is populous, consisting of 17 townships. William Morgan, d.d. the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was a native and vicar of this place. He was afterwards promoted to the bishopric of LlandafF, and in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died, Sep. 10, 1604. The living being rich, several of it’s in¬ cumbents have been learned and eminent. The late rector of the parish was the learned but facetious Robert South, d. n. The celebrated dr. Worthington was also vicar of this place. Inn. There is tolerable accommoda¬ tions at the Coach and Horses. This valley is called Mochnant (the vale of the rapid brook) at the extremity of which, distant from the village about 4im. is Pistyl-Rhaiailyr, (the spout of the cataract) the largest waterfall in Wales. The little river Rhaiadyr here falls down an almost perpendicular black crag, of 210 feet in height. For about two thirds of this space the water slides down the flat face of a naked rock ; it rages thence through a natural arch, and passing between 2 prominent sides, falls into a bason. It then passes through a well wooded dell, forming a boundary line which separates the counties of Den¬ bigh and Merioneth, and after assisting to form some pleasing scenes, falls into the Tanat, or Severn. The cataract is desti¬ tute of wood; notwithstanding which it retains an air of simple grandeur. When the sun shines on the upper part it is visi¬ ble at a great distance. Near the foot of the rock is a small room built for the use of visitors under the patronage and influ¬ ence of the late dr. Worthington, vicar of Llanrhaiadyr, which is found a very con¬ venient shade and resting place to those who bring refreshments. “ Tho’ certain- it. LLANRWST. 800 ly the highest,” says mr. Skrine, *' this is far from being the most picturesque waterfall we had seen in our tour; and perhaps it fails at the first view to strike the sight so forcibly as might be expect¬ ed, in consequence of the great absence of all external scenic beauty.” He could not, however, help being impressed with it’s magnitude, when he reached the spot, tho’ the stream was more scanty than usual. In order to reach the village of Llan- gynnoc, mr. Atkin scaled the cliff with considerable difficulty, forded the Rhaia¬ dyr abont fm. above the fall, and traversed the bog9 on the top of the mountains; a path in which few will be emulous of fol¬ lowing him. Plants. Near the fall grow Pinguicu- la vulgaris. Cotyledon umbilicus; Sapon- aria officinalis; Fumariaclaviculata. The two last grow in the lane leading to Pis- tyll Rhaiadyr. On the road to Llanymynach, at the distance of3fm. is the village of Llanged- •uiin, near which is a handsome stone edi¬ fice, the property of the present sir Watkin Williams Wynne, and was a favourite res¬ idence of the late baronet. 4|m. beyond is placed Llany blodwel-Hall, in former times the residence of Gwerful Hael, full oft the the me of many a bardic song. To Llanymynach, 10 miles, Bingley. — Llangyoog, 4§ miles, Aikin. — Llanfyllin,5 miles, Wyndham; Skrine. — Oswestry, 14 miles, Wyndham’s 2d tour - . — Llangollen, 11 miles. — Bala, 15 miles. Back to Llanfyllin, Pennant. From Dolwyddelan Castle, 11 miles, Pennant; Bingley; Aikin. - Cernioge, 10 miles, Hutton. -Conwy, 12 miles, Evans; Wyndham; Warner. -Conwy-ferry, 14 miles, Skrine. LLANRWST is a small town finely situated on the e. bank of the Conwy, in the hundred of Uwch Dulas, county of Denbigh. The population of this parish in 1801 was 2349, contained in 662 houses. The streets are narrow and the houses ir¬ regular. The high road from Shropshire to Holyhead passes through it. It is re¬ markable for little besides it’s bridge built by Inigo Jones, yet mr. Burke h3s pronounced it “ the most charming spot mw 801 LLANRWST. 802 : in \Vale9.” In the autumn of 1810 the harp-makers of this place had become ex¬ tinct, no one carrying on that business ; the instrument scarce, and rising in price, the best selling from 15 to 20 guineas. T. Richards was the most eminent of the makers; and his instruments are consider¬ ed superior to all others, selling for 25 guineas. The Church is dedicated to St. Grwst or Rystyd or Restitutus, a bishop of London in 360 ; it is mean in it’s appear¬ ance both externally and internally; but the Chapel was built from a design of the celebrated architect Inigo Jones, in 1633, andpossessesa considerable portionof ele¬ gance. The carved and fretted roof is said to have been brought from the con¬ ventual church of Maenen Abbey, which stood at the distance of 3m. It is a rec¬ tory and vicarage; the bp. of St. David’s patron. In this chapel are some monu¬ ments belonging to the Wynne family, worth attention. They are brasses, each containing, besides an inscription, the portrait of the person to whose memory they were formed. These are justly con¬ sidered very fine specimens of the chasing practised in the nth century. Four of them were done by Sylvanus Crew ; but a half length figure of dame Sarah Wynne, by William Vaughan, is most admired for it’s execution. It is remarkable that the names of these artists have never been re¬ corded in the annals of the fine arts. One of the family of Gothens of Fedwacg, now extinct, lies, (with his effigy in armour) in this chapel. He was named Hywel Coetmor, brother to Rhys Gethen who liv¬ ed in the parish of Bettws y Coed, near Llanrwst at a place called to this day Hen- dre Rhys Gethen. It is a little above Pont y Pair. Hywel Coetmor was grandson to Gryffydd, whose monument is at Bettws y Coed. Under the recumbent figure just mentioned is inscribed, HIC JACET HOEL COYTMOltE AP GRUFF; VYCHAN AMN. Near this monument is a large stone cof¬ fin supposed to have been that of the prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, denom¬ inated Llewelyn the great. Besides these, there is only one monument deserving notice, which contains along and curious inscription, of the pedigree of the Wynne family, from Owen Gwynnedd to sir Richard Wynne, who died in 1649. 27 The Market is on Tuesday. The Fairs are held April 25, June 21, Aug. 9, Sep. 17, Dec. 11. Petty Sessions are held here. The Bridge is the most prom¬ inent curiosity attaching to this place. It was built after a design by the architect of the chapel. But this was a public work, having been constructed by an order from the privy council of the 9th year of Charles the first, at the expense of 1000/. defrayed by the counties of Caer¬ narvon and Denbigh, conjointly. It con¬ sists of 3 arches, the central being the largest, measuring 60 feet in the span. One of the collateral arches was built by an inferior genius in 1703. It has often been said that by pushing against the large stone over the middle arch, the whole fabric will vibrate. The whole presents a fine architectural object in the surround¬ ing scenery, enriching both from above and below a combination of objects grouped in endless diversity. The thick woods and towering hills, which skirt the Conwy on both sides, are enlivened by the busy animation which is presented upon the surface of this river. Vessels are continually passing and repassing to and from the village of Trefriew, 2m.down the river, being the highest point to which the tide flows, and diminutive coracles, used for fishing for salmon and smelts, are frequently plying. Less extended than the vale of Cluyd and wider than that of Llangollen, the vale of Llanwrst has of¬ ten been admired, as exhibiting the most variegated assemblage of beauty. It has been the subject of an eulogium from Burke, the author of an Essay on the sub¬ lime and beautiful who pronounced it “ the most charming spot he had seen in Wales.” Inn. The Eagles is accounted the best inn, yet is an indifferent one, where the owners shew much consequential inat¬ tention. Meadow land in the immediate vicinity of the town lets as high as 3 or 4 guineas an acre; but farms at a little distance, average 7s. 6 d. Lord Gwydir is one of the largest proprietors in the neighbour¬ hood, and the most indulgent to his tenants. The river Conwy runs close past the church-yard, whence there is a fine pros¬ pect of the bridge and high woods of Gwydir behind it. Gwydir derives it’s 803 LLANRWST, 804 name from gvvy, water, and tir land ; or iUe from gwaed dur, (the bloody land) in allusion to the battle fought here by Llywarch Hen about the year 610. While at this place mr. Aikin devoted a whole morning to a stroll in these woods, which he describes as follows. “The ancient mansion, built in 1555, by John Wynne ap Meredy dd, is an extensive pile of build¬ ing, without much regularity, ranged in the quadrangular style, comprising an outer and inner court. Immediately be¬ yond the house, the ground rises very rapidly to the foot of the perpendicular cliffs forming the w. boundary of the val¬ ley, all which space is now occupied by a fine wood, consisting of firs, oaks, syca¬ mores, beeches, and ashes, in the highest luxuriance of growth that can be imag¬ ined, while the summits of the rocks, and every crevice or step in their steep sides, is adorned by the spiry spruce fir, the light, airy, pendent birch, agreeably mingled with the bright foliage and scar¬ let berries of the mountain ash. Half way up the rocks is an irregular plain of 4 or 5 acres, containing a few cottages, the remains of a magnificent terrace, and a handsome domestic chapel built in the gothic style, and overshadowed by a large Spanish Chesnut-tree about 13 feet in girth. We climbed to the top of the Cliffs which overlook this lovely scene, ancUwere gratified with a view over the rich broad vale of Llanrwst, watered by the windings of the Conwy, covered with meadows and corn-fields, enlivened by villages, and seats peeping from a- mong the sheltering woods which clothe the higher and bleaker parts of the val¬ ley.’’ At a little distance among the woods above this mansion, was Upper Gwyder, a house erected by sir John Wynne in 1604. The house has been demolished but the family chapel is still left. This ancient seat continued in the family of the Wynnes till 1678, when it passed to that of Ancaster, by marriage of Mary, the heiress of sir Richard Wynne, to the marquis of Lyndsey, and afterwards possessed by sir Peter Burrell, knight, in right of his wife, the baroness of Wil¬ loughby, eldest daughter of the late duke of Ancaster, in which family it now re¬ mains under the title of Lord Gwydir. Plants. In moist ground, lm. distant from the town, and within 3 or 4 yards of the road thence to Conwy grow the Centunculus minimus, and Stellaria uli- ginosa. On road sides near the town and near Rkaiadyr y IVenol, distant 5m. Cam¬ panula hederacea; on the road side to Ffestiniog, near the bridge, lm. Irom Pen- machno, and in moist high woods about Gwydir, Vaccinium uliginosum and Rubus idaeus ; on a wall s. of Gwydir chapel, by the road side leading to Capel Curig, Scdum rupestre; in sandy barren places, Tor- mentilla reptans; by the side of a rivu¬ let, on a dingle, called Nant Bwlch yr liiarn, lm. from Llanrwst bridge, 20 yards from the turnpike-road leading to Conwy, Thlaspi alpestre; in meadows on the banks of Conwy, about 7m. from Llan¬ rwst, Orobus sylvaticus. At Maen, within lm. of Llanrwst, is a spring of high repute, and frequently used with good effect as a cold bath. The water is uncommonly soft, and impreg¬ nated with aetherial spirits. With spirits of sol volatile it turns milk white, with the oil of tartar a pearl colour. Vitrioline acid causes an effervescence, and increas¬ es it’s whiteness. S-e. of Llanrwst, 5m. is Gwytherin, an ancient nunnery, where St. Winefrede is said to have been buried. This is a discharged rectory ; the bp. of St. Asaph, patron. The Church is dedicated to St. Gwythirn. In 1801 the population of this parish was 383. In the Church-yard are 4 rude upright stones, one of which is shaped like a prism, and bears an old in¬ scription. The box in which the relics of this saint were deposited is shewn in the church, but her chapel on the s. side is totally destroyed. Three m. to the n. once stood the Abbey of Maenen; but a large old house built out of it’s ruins, is all which exists of it. On the road to Penmachno, about 5m. from Llanrwst, and over some fields to the 1. is a small waterfall of 12 or 14 yards, on the river Conwy. Proceeding lm. at a fulling-mill, near Punt y Pandy, is a truly romantic and picturesque cataract, called Rhaiadyr y Craig Llwyd. The high banks on each side are ornamented with pendant shrubs, and a mill and rude wood¬ en aqueduct (which conveys water to an old overshot wheel) overgrown with mosses and gTass, come in to complete this elegant landscape. The descent to the bottom is steep and difficult, but the 806 805 LLANRwST. trouble is amply repaid by seeing the fall to a much greater advantage than from above. The river accompanies the road to some distance beyond this waterfall. Where they part, the road may be left to follow the banks of the stream. After some time the traveller will arrive at an uncommonly wild scene of wooded and projecting rocks, overhanging the stream. Returning from this scene, the tourist may pursue the road to Penmachno, which lies over a mountainous, but not an in¬ teresting or romantic country. The road to Cernioce and Ceric y Druidion on the e. side of the river Con¬ wy, winds through an extensive wood of oaks, interspersed with beech and chesnut; the elegant spruce, the pensile birch, and the rich scarlet berries of the mountain ash, add a pleasing variety to the sylvan scene. The opposite rocks and woods of Gwydir, the valley below, and the meandering river, form a land¬ scape peculiarly pleasing. At the dis¬ tance of 2m. from Llanrwst the whole circle of stones called Cefn Creini may be seen. But an ascent of 5m. in length through a desert succeeds. A gloomy heath, a barren morass, circumscribed by naked dark brown mountains, unrelieved by any beauty. At length the venerable plantations appear which encircle Foelas Hall, an old mansion of the Wynnes, now the seat of the hon. mrs. Finch. An artificial mount is here, on which former¬ ly stood acastelct, destroyed by Llewelyn the great. A remarkable column bears a very obscure inscription, part in Latin and part in Welsh, said to refer to the inter¬ ment of a prince Llewelyn, but this is doubtful as in the time of Humphrey Llwyd, it was so obscure, that he could make no decision on the subject. Two m. to the r. is Y Spy tty h.v m or Ysbytty- Jeuan, a small village, where formerly stood a hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, an asylum for travellers in this wild coun¬ try during the inhospitably and perils of war. Alter the abolition ol the knights of this order, it became the residence of thieves and murdereis, who committed great cruel ties in the country, but they were extirpated by the bravery and prudence of Meredydd ap Evan, in the reign of Henry 7. Capt. Richard Vaughan founded here an almshouse for 6 poor men, now much neglected. In the church are alabaster figures to the memory of Rhys ap Mere¬ dydd, who was appointed standard bearer by Henry 7 at the battle of Bosworth; a- nother for his wife Lowry; and another to his son Robert, cross-bearer and chap¬ lain to Cardinal Wolsey. Descending to the small village of Capel Foelas, and crossing a bridge over a stream tributary to the Dec, the tourist passes over a tract of sterile and boggy meadow-land, which introduces him to the solitary inn of Cer¬ nioce. Three m. farther is Cerio y Druidion. To Cerniooe, ori the w. side of the Conwy, the road is less direct than the new one on the e. side, but more picturesque. Passing in view of and amid the scenery of Gwydir-house a considerable way, sev¬ eral neat and pleasant seats appear on the opposite side of the vale, on the banks of the river, which receives many tribu¬ tary mountainous streams in it’s progress. Pass Ponty Pair, near Settles y cued where the new road through Capel Curic branches off. Immediately above this bridge over the Llugwy, is a pretty little cataract among ledges of rocks, hollowed out into the most fantastic forms, by the incessant action of the water. The cas¬ cade of Rhaiadyr y Wenol lies at the dis¬ tance of 2m. The Conwy may be here crossed by a new and lofty bridge, unless you choose to take the still more circuit¬ ous rout by the way of the Falls of the Conwy, near Penmachno. Not far from Pont y Pair the Conwy and the Llugwy, which have for some space been foaming along a declivity of broken rocks, unite their streams, and become tranquil and clear. Ascend by a precipitous road, properly guarded on one side by a stone wall, and cut out of the rock on the other, where the vale contracts to a deep dell, through which the Conw'y again thunders, at a great distance below. The scenery here is well wooded and grand. Land lets in tins neighbourhood at from lr. to5r. an acre, according to it’s qudiiy; and the rent of farms average at about 30/. a year. On gaining the summit of the ascent, enter on a track of milder features, amid woods and cultiva¬ tion. Observe at a short distance from the road the new inn of Rhyddlan Fair, and Plus Neaedd, the seat of — Humph¬ ries, esq. on the r. in the midst of fine plantations of birch, larch, and oak. Cross 807 LLANRWST. 808 the rocky bed of a mountain torrent which falls into the Conwy, and pass on the 1. Foelas-hall, the fanciful seat of the hon. C. Finch ; and soon after leave, in the same direction, the village of Cupel Foelas. The land now assumes a sterile aspect, producing only oats and coarse grass. In many places the soil is boggy, but yields turf in abundance, which forms the principal part of the fuel of the in¬ habitants. On his way to Cap el Curig, mr. Pen¬ nant visited the village of Trefriw, where numbers of small vessels are built, and sent down the river at spring tides. Llewelyn, had a palace near this place; by whom the church of Trefriw was orig¬ inally built. This district is chiefly re¬ marked on account of a mineral water, containing common salt, which a solu¬ tion of silver turns milky. Hence he went back as far as Gwydir, and ascended a very steep hill, leaving the park on the 1. Went over an open space called Bwlch yr Haiarn, full of turberies. The Myrica gale is here abundant. After gaining the snmmit, visit, to the r. Llyn Geirion-nydd, a small lake; near which the celebrated Taliesin, who flourished about the year 560, had a habitation. Descend a great steep, into Glyn Llugwy, a bottom water¬ ed by the Llugwy, fertile in grass. Go through a narrow pass, high above a rag¬ ing torrent, falling in broken cascades from rock to rock. At a short distance enter Duffryn mymbyr, a valley in which there is no trees. The small church of Capel Curig, and a few scattered houses, give a little animation to this dreary tract. On the road to Capel Curio the traveller may skirt the n. extremity of Snowdon. Ascending the w. boundary of Llanrwst vale, by the road to Capel Curig, passing at the foot of Gwydir woods, at the dis¬ tance of about 2m. occurs an extensive dip between the mountains abounding with mines. Hence proceeding up a Tather narrow wooded valley, 2 or 3 fine waterfalls are formed by the river Llug¬ wy, one of which called Rbaiadyr y fVen- ol, is particularly striking : it’s height is not great, but a considerable body of wa¬ ter falls in 4 foaming torrents into a deep bason in the centre of a very rocky chan¬ nel : a number of footsteps cut in the rock, shew that it is a spot much resorted to. In the prospects on this part of the road Moel-siabod, a mountain so lotty as to conceal behind it the crags of Snow¬ don, forms an object of admiration, both on account of it’s size, and the elegance of it’s outline. The road to Denbigh lies oversome heathy hills till within the distance of 5m. when the beauty of the country begins sensibly to increase, and to prepare the traveller for the rich and fertile prospects which gladden the vale of Clwyd. From Llanrwst to Conwy mr. Skrine, proceeded up the vale till the closing hills barely left room for the foaming riv¬ er ; then turning to the r. he coursed the Llugwy, and soon come to a spot, where it dashes with great rapidity over a ledge of broken rocks, on the craggy points of which an extraordinary bridge of 5 arches, called Pont y pair, is founded. He then penetrated into the recesses of that pile of mountains, which form the base of Snowdon, lor the purpose of viewing the cataract of R aiadyr y IVenol. The riv¬ er here tearing it’s way through opposing obstacles, increased the horror of this sav¬ age desert, by a precipitate fall from rock to rock, into the abyss of an excessively deep hollow, whence it rushes with prodigious impetuosity for several miles to the bridge which he had passed. At the cataract, a dark column of wood over¬ hangs and fringes it’s banks, which com¬ bined with the colour and largeness of the rocks, give an indescribable sublimity to the scene. Returning to Llanrwst, he passed near the old mansion of Gwydir. Pursuing the turnpike-road, on the Caer¬ narvonshire side of the river, he soon reached the town of Conwy. On ap¬ proaching Conwy from Llanrwst, the casi tie, and the walls enclosing the town ap¬ pear to great advantage, especially where is seen in one view the s. wall, upon the sea side ; the town, the turrets, and the castle, backed by a most beautiful and rising wood. A new road is now opened from Llan¬ rwst to Bancor, through Nant Fran- con. To Maentwrog, 20jm. 3|m. Betlws; 1£, a small cataract upon the Conwy; 1, Rhaiadyr y Craig Llwyd, the fall of the Conwy ; 2, Penmachno ; 10, Ffesti¬ niog ; near it the falls of Cyn-fael; 1, the vale of Maentwrog (often called the vale of Ffestiniog); l£, Maentwroo, 810 809 LLANRWST. LLANSTEPHAN. where is a good inn; Tanybwlch inn is $m. distant, over tlie bridge to the 1. From Llanrwst to Aberceley by the e. or Denbighshire side of the river is a- bout 22m. The scenery along the Conwy is charming, but the latter 3m. before en¬ tering the great road is too hilly and tedious for a carriage. On the great road to Conwy the river Conwy is crossed near Gwydir, the seat of lord Gwydir, on the 1.; to Trefriew 2£m. (A brook issuing from Llyn tal xj llyn, and Llyn Crafnant, turns a mill at this place. On the r. is Plas Maddock, R. Jones, esq. lm. from Trefriew on the r. is Maenan, late lady Cuflin; Jm. further see Abbey, lord Newborough. Several miles to the 1. lies various lakes; the 1st is Llyn Cwlid, the stream issuing from it is crossed at Pont Dolgarrog , the 2d is Ffynnon Lxyffant, which is connected by a stream to llyn Geirionydd , and continued to Pont Porthlwyd, which lies within ^m. from Taly bont. Lea we Llanbedr cennyn to the 1. Pass Caer Hun Hall, — Grif¬ fiths, esq.) Tyn y Gives, 5-Jm. (On the 1. is a road to Aber, about 8m. by way of Cloddiejiaethiun, Yro, Bwlchy ddiefaen, and Plus Newydd ) Near Conwy on the r. is Pennarth, the residence of Councellor Price. Conwy, 4m. To Penmaclino, 5 miles, Bingley. — Capel Curlg, 7 miles, Pennant; Aikin. — Conwy, 12 miles, Ilutton ; Skrine. — Cerig y Druitliun, 14 miles, Evans. — Cernioge, 12 miles, Warner, — Denbigh, 18 miles, Wyndham. — Maentwrog, 20 j miles. From Llaugharne, 5 miles, Malkin. - Kidwelly, 5 miles, Skrine; Evans. -Caermarthen, 8 miles, Wvndliam. LLANSTEPHAN, in the hundred of Derllys, Caermarthenshire, is a village, the situation of which is peculiarly inter¬ esting. It is a vicarage, under the pat¬ ronage of the king; valued in 1809 at 24/. per annum, including augmentation, stipend and surplice fees. In 1801 the population of this parish consisting of the hamlets of Alcston, Luques, and Llan y Bra, was 974. Here is a Well called St. Anthony's , walled with stone and mortar; and over it a niche, where it is supposed a figure of the saint was placed. A chapel called Marble Church, originally belong¬ ed to the establishment under Llan Steph¬ an, but the dissenters having possessed themselves of it, during the civil wars, have retained it ever since. The Castle crowns the summit of a bold wooded pro¬ montory guarding the w entrance of the river Tywi, the precipitous base of which is washed by the sea. It’s broken walls enclose a large area; and, furnished with several encircling earthen ramparts, ap¬ pear to have possessed considerable strength. From numerous stations it offers a truly picturesque appearance; and in the approach charmingly combines with the surrounding landscape ; which, ever varying, is sometimes confined to a woody character; at others, exhibits the wide estuary, the rocky promontory form¬ ing it’s opposite shore, and the boundless sea. This castle is said to have been built by the sons of Uchtred, prince of Merionethshire, a.d. 1138; but soon after fell into the hands of the Normans and Flemings; in 1143 it was taken from them by Cadelh, son of Rhys Prince of S. Wales; and so vigorously maintained, that the utmost force which the foreigners could raise was unable to retake it. How¬ ever, by the year 1189 it must have been in the possession of the English, as Cara- doc informs us that it was then taken from them by Prince Rhys, or Rees ap Gryffyth. There is a handsome mod¬ ern house on the same hill on which the castle stands. The village is snugly situated beneath the “ Castle-cap’d hill,” in a woody hollow, whence a lofty ridge, commanding extensive views, leads to a neighbouring estuary, formed by the Tywi or Towey near it’s junction with the sea. When the tide is out, tourists cannot avail themselves of the ferry ; but the sands may be crossed on horse-back with a guide. Mr. Barber and his com¬ panion received what they thought ample directions and set out without a guide; but the directions received proved of so general a kind that they were unable to select the rout intended. “Ignoranthow to proceed, and unwilling to return 3 or 4m. for fresh instructions, we gladly ob¬ served a couple of young women trudging on the sands in a direction towards us. The proper place for fording was now pointed out, where, it was said, the water would scarcely cover our horses knees ; we deemed it most prudent, however, to let the natives go first, and they accord* 811 LLANSTEPHAN. LLANTHONY ABBEY. 812 ingly entered the Tiver, using the pre¬ caution of raising their drapery. We fol¬ lowed close; but the lasses had consid¬ erably underrated the depth of the water, for it took both them and our horses above half their height; yet so carefully were the clothes of the former held up, that not a thread was wetted.” Proceed¬ ing under an overhanging rock of red granite, crowned with the ivymantled remainsof Laucharne castle, the town (which is an irregularly built littli place, seated on a low bank of the estuary) ap¬ pears. To this place mr. Skrine took the ferry over the wide estuary, and cross¬ ed the Ty wi at a short distance. The whole of the vale, from Llan- stephan to Ystrad Ffin, abounds in inter¬ esting objects of various description. The first stretch of country to Caermatithen is rich and beautiful. The road lies most¬ ly along the w. ridge, continually com¬ manding the river and all it’s luxuriant ac¬ companiments. The first view of Caer- marthen is particularly striking. The 3 hills backing the to wn, the decorated villas, the castle, the bridge, and vessels on the river, all conspire to form a grand impres¬ sive scene.—B. H. Malkin. Mr. Evans took a boat to Caermar- then, for the sake of viewing to advan¬ tage this part of Ystrad Tyxvy. On the left, just above the castle, the river makes a fine curve forming a small haven, called Green haven, where vessels wait for a wind to pass the bar. The coracle fishery is much practised on this part of the river. At Caermarthen the landing-place is near a fine old stone bridge of 7 arches. To Llaugharne, 5 miles, Wyndliam; Skrine; Barber. — Caermarthen, 8 miles, Malkin ; Evans. From the Hay, 11 miles, Wyndham. - Abergavenny, 10 miles, Skrine. LLANTHONY ABBEY, is situated about 10m. n. of Aberoavenny, Mon¬ mouthshire, in the deeply secluded vale of Ewias, encircled by the barren sum¬ mits of the Black Mountains, but with some local cultivation, and enlivened by the crystalline Honddy. It was a cistertian house, founded by Walter de Lacy, in 1103, and afterwards endowed liberally by Milo, earl of Hereford. Ven¬ erable and grand, but wholly devoid of ornament, it partakes of the character of the surrounding scenery. Not a single tendril of ivy decorates the massive walls of the structure, and but a sprinkling of shrubs and light branchy trees fringe the parapets or shade the broken fragments beneath. The area of the church is not very extensive; the length is 212 feet; the breadth 50; and it measures 100 a- cross the transept. The roof has long since fallen in, and a great part of the e. and s. walls are now prostrate ; but the view afforded of the interior, in conse¬ quence, is grand. A double row of pointed arches, reposing on massive piers, separate the side aisles from the nave; above which, divided from the gothic form by a straight band or fascia, is a se¬ ries of small circular arches : an inter¬ mixture and arrangement of the 2 forms which characterise the earliest use of the pointed architecture. Two lofty arches, rising from the middle of the church, still sustain a massive portion of the tower. The grandeur of the w. front cannot be passed unnoticed; nor looking over the fragments of the choir, the fine view of the inside ruin seen through the great e. arch of the tower; neither is a small chap¬ el adjoining the s. transept, with a well- formed engroined roof to be overlooked : the transept is remarkable for a large nor- man archway which led into the s. aisle of the choir. Since mr. Wyndham visit¬ ed this abbey in 1777, the e. front has fallen. To the s. of this chapel are the remains of an oblong room, which was probably the chapter-house ; beyond is a doorway, similar to that of the chapel, communicating with some apartments now delapidated. Many portions of build¬ ing appear in detached heaps near the abbey church, particularly a bold arch in a neighbouring barn, which seems to have formed the principal entrance to the abbey. Among these the natives point out a low subterraneous passage, faced with hewn stone, which they suppose to have had a connection with Old Castle, about 3m. distant. “ A mixture of saxon and pointed characters prevail in this ab¬ bey ; the latter style, however gains ground considerably; and it is curious to trace the building out of the new mould¬ ings from those of the saxon; the orna¬ ments seem more prominent in this re¬ spect : hence Llanthony, like Canterbury, 613 LLANTHONY ABBEY. LLANTRISSANT. 814 forms an excellent school for the study of the Rise and Progress of English Architec¬ ture.”—Gent. Mag. May 1810. St. David, the uncle of king Arthur (say an¬ cient legends), was so struck with this sequestered recess, then almost uncon¬ scious of a human footstep, that he built a chapel on the spot, and passed many years in it as a hermit. William, a retrainer of the earl of Hereford’s, in the reign of William Rufus, being led into the valley in pursuit of a deer, espied the hermitage. The deep solitude of the place, and the mysterious appearance of the building conspired to fill him with religious en¬ thusiasm; and he instantly disclaimed all worldly enjoyments.—J T. Barber. This abbey was rebuilt, and the monastery appropriated for Augustine Monks, by sir William de Lacy, in the year 1108. The mountains of Ewias, now called the Hat- terel-hills, rise above the monastery of Llanthony, and join the Black Mountains of Talgarth at Capel y Ffin ; or the chapel upon the boundary, near which the coun¬ ties of Hereford, Brecon, and Monmouth form a point of union. On his way to Ciuckhowell, mr. Skrine entered the opening between the mountains through which flows the Usk. “ Here” says he, “ I first viewed the small but charming territory, of which I afterwards became the proprietor; and I must risk even the imputation of partiali¬ ty, to bestow a well merited degree of praise on the transcendent beauties of Damj Park and it’s vicinity. The house stands in a spacious lawn, beneath a thick range of spreading woods, which descend¬ ing from a great height, form at last an open grove, covering an abrupt knoll, immediately over it. Above these, a fine mixture of pasturage and corn-fields stretch up to the feet of the mountains, which rise in native sublimity, and are crowned with the perpendicular rock of Desguilfa (the prospect) so called from it’s almost unlimited view. Such is the s. aspect. Towards the n. stretches a charm¬ ing variety of enamelled meadows, water¬ ed by the Usk, to some fertile and orna¬ mented hills. Towards the w. the Usk, emerging from the mountains, which bound the vale of Brecon, passes round a high pyramidal hill, and dividing the village of Llangattoc from the town and castle of Crickhowcl, flows rapidly through the ivy-arched bridge ; while on the e. it glides more gently between the verdant meads of Dany-park and Courl-y Gollen, towards Abergavenny, which ap¬ pears at the distance of 6m. at the bottom of the vale. The following interesting Inscription for a Monument in the vale of Ewias, is by R. Southey, esq. Here was it, stranger, that the patron saint of Cambria pass’d his age of penitence, a solitary man ; and here he made his hermitage, the roots his food, his drink of Honddy’s mountain stream. Perchance thy youth has read with eager wonder how the Knight of Wales, in Ormandine’s enchanted bower, slept the long 6leep; and if that in thy veins flows die pure blood of Britain, sure that blood has flow’d with quicker impulse at the tale of Dafydd’s deeds, when through the press of war his gallant comrades followed his green crest to conquests. Stranger! Hatterel’s mountain heights, and this fair vale of Ewais, and the stream of Honddy, to thine after-thoughts will rise more grateful, thus associate with the name of Dafydd and the deeds of other days. About 3m. to the n-e. of Llanthony- Abbey, stands the village of Longtown, in a most secluded and romantic situation, on the banks of the river Minnow, near it’s junction with the Escle and Olchon, one of which rises near the other, and give beauty to the country through which they flow in a s. direction. This place has been marked by some as the roman Blestium. This village is in the hundred of Ewyas Lacy, in the parish of Cloudock, and has a chapel dedicated to St. Peter, of the value of 16/. per annum, in the pat¬ ronage ofW. Wilkins, esq. The popu¬ lation of this village in 1801 was 768. It is situated 17m. in a s-w. direction from Hereford, in the neighbourhood of the Hatterel hill or black mountain. Of the Castle but a portion of the keep remains : it stands upon rising ground, surrounded by a ditch, encompassed by a rampart. History is silent both as to the founder of the castle and the date of it’s erection. A good print of it appears in the Topographi¬ cal Cabinet, vol. 6. To Abergavenny, 11 miles, Wyndham. — Crickhowel, 7 miles, Skrine. From Coity, 8 miles, Barber. LLANTRISSANT is situated near the summit of a cleft, in one of the high hills which bounds the vale of Glamorgan. It 815 LLANTRISSANT. LLAN Y MYNACH. 816 is only by a circuitous road, of fatiguing ascent, that it can be approached. One narrow irregular street, composed of poor gothic habitations, makes up nearly the whole of this place. Little besides a lofty round tower appears of the castle, the vestiges of it’s outworks being nearly con¬ cealed by tangling shrubs. Within the precincts of the castle is a neat market- house and town-hall, erected at the ex¬ pense of the earl of Bute. The Church is a large norman edifice. From the ceme¬ tery a surprisingly extensive view may be had. This place unites with CaerdifF, Swansea, &c. in sending one member to parliament. This district abounds in lead ore, the property of the marquis of Bute, who is lord of the manor. The principal Inns are the Cross-Keys and New Inn. There is a good road from this ancient town to Pont y pridd. To Pont y pridd, 5 miles, Bingley. From Welsli-Pool, 5J miles, Pennant; Bingley. -Llanrliaiadyr, 10 miles, Bingley. - Oswestry, 6 miles, Warner. —— Shrewsbury, 17 miles, Aikin. LLAN Y MYNACH, (the village of miners) is situated on the w. borders of Shropshire, or. the banks of the Fyrnwy. This parish contains 3 townships, Carreg Hwva, Llwyn Tydmon, and Treprenal; the first lies in a detached part of Denbigh¬ shire ; the two latter are separated by Offa's dike, and are situated in Shropshire. The river Tanad washes it’s w. side, divid¬ ing it lrom the parishes of Llanymlodvoel andLlansaintfred; then joining the Fyrnwy, it bounds it’s s.part, dividing it from the parishes of Llansainfraid and Llandysilio. The river Morda divides it on the e. from Kinnersley, and on the n. it joins the par¬ ish of Oswestry. The Fyrnwy becomes navigable here in the winter months for barges of 40 or 50 tons burden. The Montgomeryshire branch of the grand canal which opens a communication be¬ tween the rivers Severn, Dee, and Mersey, passes through this parish, and crosses the Fyrnwy. Great quantities of Llan- gyunog slate have been sent hence to Bris¬ tol ; and, of late years, ores of lead and zink have been conveyed by the Stafford Canal from Stourport to Birmingham, Macclesfield, and other places. The river Fyrnwy abounds with fish. Mr. Pennant reckoned twenty different species of the finny tribe, which frequent this branch of the aquatic regions. The Church dedicated to St. Agatha, is a rec¬ tory, in the gift of the bp. of St. Asaph. The chancel contains the reliques of a wife and daughter of George Griffith, bp. of St. Asaph, who had been rector of this parish. He died Nov. 28, 1666, and was buried in the choir of St. Asaph cathe¬ dral. There is an inscription on the n. side of the communion table to Charles Pindar, esq. of Edinshaw, Cheshire, bart. barrister at law, recorder of Wenlock, died Aug. 30, 1692. According to the census of 1801 the population of this par¬ ish (including the townships of Llwyn Tydmon, and Trepennal ,) was 390. The township of Carreg Haifa, which is a de¬ tached part of the County of Denbigh, makes it’s own parochial returns. This parish is about 3m. long and 1 § broad. The townships of Llwyn Tydmon and Trepren - nel joined about the year 1791 with sev¬ eral neighbouring parishes, in erecting a House of Industry at Oswestry, to which they send their poor. The objections to this plan are serious. See them detailed under the article Shrewsbury. The soil is of various qualities. In the higher grounds it is gravelly, and most friendly to tillage ; in the lower parts loamy sand and clay, producing excellent pasturage. The climate is favourable both to animal and vegetable life. The land occupiers are indifferent farmers, because Rack- rent is employed as an instrument of tor¬ ture, whicli cramps the sinews of labour and dislocates the joints of indusiry. It checks, says dr. Anderson, even the thought of attempting any improve¬ ment. A remedy for this evil, to the advantage of the landlord, may be found in the plan of perpetual leases projected by lord Kaims. There is scarcely an in¬ habitant here who cannot speak both en- glish and welsh. The disposition of the people in general, is open-hearted and communicative. Upon the adjoining hill about 150 men are generally employed in burning lime during the summer season, and in winter 50 in raising and breaking the stone. Lime is found in every part of the line which divides the mountains from the plains on the frontier of N. Wales. The beds of lime-stone in some places lie 817 LLAN Y MYNACH, 8J8 on sand-stone, and in other places are found below it. In others again the limestone is near the bottom of a hill, sandstone occupies the middle space, and limestone is again found upon the summit. This hill affords also copper, zinc, lead, and calamine. It seems to have been wrought in the time of the Romans. One vestage of their labours appears in an artificial cave of an immense length, call¬ ed Ogo, whence they obtained copper. The windings of this cavern are numerous and intricate. About the year 1760, some miners, in search of copper, found, in the recesses of this place, several skele¬ tons lying in it. Some culinary utensils, a fire-place, and a small hatchet were near them. One skeleton had a bracelet of glass beads encircling his left wrist, and a battle-ax by his side. There was also found a number of roman coins of Antoninus, Faustina, and others. About 15 years after this discovery, other miners found several human bones, and a golden bracelet round a wrist. Tools, judged to be roman, have been also found, some of which are preserved in the library of Shrewsbury Free-School. One glass bead and one copper coin were in the posses¬ sion of mr. Robert Baugh, of this place, who keeps the inn of the Cross-keys, the ingenious engraver of the 9 sheets Map of North VVal.es, by John Evans, esq. of Llwyn y Groes. From the summit is an extensive view over the plains towards Shrewsbury, on the e. ; and on the other side the rugged county of Montgomery. The Severn with it’s tributary streams the Frynwy andTanad, may be seen proceed¬ ing from their respective vales, and at length uniting and flowing into the rich plain of Shrewsbury. At a considerable distance, when enlightened by the sun, may be seen, the glistening water-fall of Pistyll Rhaiadyr, on the 1. are the Bred- din-hills, and in front the Ferwyn moun¬ tains compose the distant horizon. The plants on the rock are such as indicate the presence of calcarious earth; as Anthyllis yulneraria, Cistus hclianthemum, and Rosa spinosissima. On the w. side of Llan y mynach hill runs the rampart made by Offa king of Mercia, to divide his country from Wales, called Clawdd Offa, or Offa’s-dyke, which commences at the river Wye near Bristol, and passes a- long the counties of Hereford, Radnor, part of Salop, and Denbigh, and ends near Treuddyn in Flintshire. This mud wall was the line of separation between the 2 countries till about the conquest. The late ingenious mr. Evans, in his survey of N. Wales, discovered, that Offa discon¬ tinued his dyke near Treuddyn in Flint¬ shire ; and that the loss, which is found to terminate on the Dee, near Basing- werk, has it’s beginning at Maesbury near Oswestry, about lm. below Offa’s dyke, from which Wattstay, (now Wynnstay,) had it’s name. Parallel with two other dykes across this hill, runs a stupendous rampart of loose stones, with a deep foss, which follows the brow of the hill and en¬ compasses about ^ of it’s extent. This was probably constructed by the Romans to guard their ores from the plunder of the Britons. Upon the eastern brow of this hill once stood a Cromlech, measuring 7 feet by 6, and 18 inches thick. It was taken down from the vain desire of search¬ ing for treasure, in which state it lies. It is thus that avarice stimulates men to over¬ throw even the altars of the gods. From the same station on thes-E. see Llyny groes, lately the seat of John Evans, esq. before mentioned, a worthy and ingenious man, who died in 1795. To the s-w. lies Carreg-Hwfa, once the seat of sir Tho. Jones, one of the judges of assize; now the property of his descendants. Further to the s-w. on the confines of the parish is Pentre- Ifei/yn, formerly the seat of the Heilyns. One of these called Grono ab Heilyn was chosen by the last Llewelyn to treat with the commissioners of Ed¬ ward Longshanks, for concluding a final peace, which was observed for a while only by the English. Then did Snowdon reverberate with “ death or freedom.” It’s lord, however fell by the base hand of an assassin, and the liberties of the britons expired. Dr. Peter Heylin who died in 1662, was of this family. Un¬ der the w. brow of this hill lies Abertanat, formerly (he seat of the Tanats. It was left by a Godolphin, out of his family, to lord Osborne. A little further towards the n. stands Blodfoel formerly the resi¬ dence of Gwerful Hael, now it belongs to lord Bradford. About 2m. n-w. of Llanymynach, on the bank of the Frynwy, once stood Carreg Hvifa Castle, of which no vestige now remains except the foss on the e, side. History contains little rc- 819 LLAN Y MYNACH. 820 lating to this place of refuge, save that in the year 1162 it was taken by the two cousins, Owain Cyveilog and Owen ap Madoc, in whose possession it continued 25 years; at the termination of which periodic was besieged by Gwenwynwyn and Cadwallon, when Owen ap Madoc was slain. Within im. of this castle lies Gwern y Jign, where a battle was fought about the year 1202.—Cam. Reg. for 1795, p. 265. When at Llan y mynach, mr. Pennant rode to the New-bridge, composed of 7 arches, over the Fyrnwy, about 3m. a- bove the ford. The river is confined by a mill-dam forming a fine reach. The over¬ flowings produce a pretty cascade; and the views upwards, of small vallies and hanging woods, are exceedingly beauti¬ ful. Passed again by Llandydlio. Tra¬ versed Dongay common, and passed through the village of Llandreinio; went over the bridge of 3 arches. Crossed the Severn and proceeded along the feet of those mas¬ sy mountains Breldden, Moel y golf a, and Cefn y castell. On Crew green, far to the 1. starts up Belin mount, a round insulated rock. A vast extent of flat country ap¬ pears beneath part of the great plain of Shropshire. “ At this place the enclos¬ ed wastes within the manor of Deuddwr near the confluence of the rivers Severn and Fyrnwy, bore uncommon crops. A clause in the act provided that the frequent inundations of the Severn might be guard¬ ed against by proper imbankments. These were engaged in at the expense of nearly 26,000/. The embankment was begun a little below Pool quay and continued to Cymmerau, and thence for some miles up the Fyrnwy, towards Llan y mynach It was not considered that the celerity and force of a flood are not so much in propor¬ tion to the abstract qnantity of water it contains, as to the dimensions of that quantity. A certain body of water, in rapid motion, suppose 400 yards wide and 3 feet deep, when confined in it’s chan¬ nel to 200 yards, will increase it’s mo¬ mentum or force of percussion, in a quad¬ ruple ratio; or as the squares of the respective depths. These principles being overlooked, the proud Sabrina, swelling and foaming with indignant rage, has repeatedly levelled the barrier, and ■with impunity traversed her old domain. Some breaches were made in the year 1794, and more on a sudden thaw in Feb* 1795, when the plains were deluged with torrents from the hills which swept away mills, and bridges as well as embank¬ ments ; these ruptures were repaired; but in the winters of 1797,1806, and 1808, the river repeated her assaults with the same success.”—Rev. VV Davies. The village of Meverley lies upon the op¬ posite side of the Severn, near where the Fyrnwy falls into it. Near a small brook quit Montgomeryshire and enter the county of Salop. Visit a little to the r; Wattcburg castle, an old house, with a square tower still older. It lies upon the roman road from Llanrhaiadyr yn Moch- nant. A little further is Lolon, anancient seat of the family of Leighton. Not far from the house are remains of the ancient mansion or castle of Alberbury ; a tower and some walls yet exist. A little to the e. is Ronton, the seat of the Listers; form- erlyj possessed by the lords L’Estrange of Knockin, who had here a castle. Turn¬ ing towards the Severn, upon a lofty bank above the river, at Little Shrawardine, saw a vast artificial mount, the former site of a castelet. Upon the opposite bank is the village of Great Shrawardine. Only 3 or 4 fragments of the castle remain. The river from this neighbourhood begins to grow very beautiful. The banks are ele¬ vated, and in many places clothed with hanging woods. Go through the village of Ford. Leave on the r. Dintle and Onslow. Upon the n. side of the river, upon a delightful bank, are the village and church of Montford. A little further is Montford-bridge. Shrewbury is 4m, in a direct line from this place ; but many prefer the course of the river, tempted by the pleasingness of the scenery. Cross Montford-bridge turn to the r. over the Perry, not far above it’s junction with the Severn. The hamlet of Mitton, i. e. mid¬ dle town, lies in the midst of a narrow neck of land between the 2 rivers. The Severn here makes a great bend, and forms on the opposite side, a peninsula, with so very narrow an isthmus, as to oc¬ casion it to be called the Isle of Up Rossal; being encompassed by the river for the space of 5m. except at the entrance, which forms a neck of only 380 yards in breadth. Filtes, the parish church of Mitton, is seated at a short distance, upon an eminence. A large exploratory mount 822 821 LLAN Y MYNACH. it contiguous. A field, at a little dis¬ tance from the church-yard, affords a most beautiful view of the Severn, which lies far beneath; when added to the surround¬ ing scenery, it forms one of the finest views this country can boast. Pass by the upper and lower Berwick, both com¬ manding most delightful views of the riv¬ er and town of Shrewsbury, which is en¬ tered hence through the North-gate. On approaching Oswestry, at the 4th m. on the r. is a ridiculously splendid brick-building, intended, not for a pur¬ pose which it’s exterior seems to prompt, but for the abode of the indigent, and wretched. ’T is a strange preversion of common sense, made by ostentation and folly, when elegance and show become the concealment of poverty and distress. Convenience, humility, and obscurity, should rather distinguish the dwelling of the unfortunate, whether their circum¬ stances be derived ftom their own crimes or from the crimes of others. Proceed¬ ing to Shrewsbury the Breiddin Hills, appear for a few miles on the r. At the distance of 4m. is the village of Knochin. The Hall was the residence of the family of L’Estrange, who built the town. Four m. Nesscliffe; 4, Montford-bridge; 4, Shrewsbury. About hall way is a high rock of red free-stone called also Ness Cliff". In the s-e. side of this rock there is a cave, called Kynaston’s Cave; from having once been the retreat of Humphrey son of Roger Kynaston, of Harlech castle and his mad companions. On the road to Welsh Pool, cross the Fyrnwy, by a ferry, or more circuitously by the New-bndge before mentioned. Pass through Llandysil'w, a small village lm. and at intervals cross the Montgomery canal. ^m. further pass the Street, and ^m. Rusnant. Trederwen-hall, on the r. ljm. and Gwernville common, Neiv-iduay, on the Severn, l^m. Much business is carried on here, whence is a fine view of Moel-y-golfa, the highest peak of the Breiddin mountains, upon which is placed a pillar erected to the memory of Rodney. In approaching Welsh-pool, the country becomes more rich and beautiful. On rising ground to the 1. stands the magni¬ ficent structure of Powis castle. Welsh pool, 4m. Mr. Warner took the side of the canal to Welsh Pool, which only increased the distance lm. and relieved him, he says, “ from floundering through a Shrop¬ shire turnpike road, of all public ways, the most abominable.” At the distance of 2m. is an aqueduct of great strength over the river Fyrnwy. At about half of the way on the road to Llanfair, is the village of Meifod , or Mvfod, Mai-fod may be translated a summer habitation, said to have been the archdeaconry of Powis-land. It had form¬ erly two churches. The population of Meifod parish in 1801, was 1633, includ¬ ing the townships of Cefn Llyfnog, Cil, Czvm, Dyfryn, Main, Nant y Meichiad, Peniarth, Tair tref, Tref Edryd, and Tref Nanny. The Market-day is Friday. The Fairs are Jan. 20, last Tuesday in April, Sep. 22. This parish is 9m. long, and 4m. broad. Here are 2 mineral springs, ef¬ ficacious in cutaneous and scrofulous com¬ plaints. The present Church, ded. to St. Mary, was founded, says Caradoc, about the year 1153. The cemetery is an en¬ closure of 5 acres. One of the churches was dedicated to St. Gwyddfarch, the son of Amatarus, a prince of Poland. The spot of his retirement is still called Gwely Gwyddfarch, upon a rock bearing the name Gallt yr Ancr. In the 12th century Cynddelw, a native of this parish, in one of his poems, describes the present church as newly founded, between 2 rivers. In subsequent times these were united and called Fyrnwy, which falls into the Severn at Cymmerau, 12m. e. of Meifod. Mr. Tho. Pryce, of Llanfyllin, in a letter to mr. Josiah Babington, written about the middle of the 17th century, says, “ Be¬ sides the parish church now standing, I myself have seen the ruins of 2 others. I have also seen the ruins of a Crefydd dy, or religious house. ' Several pave¬ ments and hearths have been dug up in the neighbouring fields, one I know at a small distance from the village, and the field is still called Maes y Forth or the gateway- field. At a like distance is Pentre go, the Smithfield of Mediolanum. It has also 2 Lanas (if Lana means a brook) and the Italian Mediolanum (Milan) is watered by two channels, theTicinus and Adder.” The only relic of monumental antiquity that remains is a selicious freestone, at present lying flat in the chancel. It has some rude sculptures in basso relievo, bearing the figure of a large sword, by 8‘23 LLAN Y MYNACH. LLAUGHARNE. 824 some mistaken for a cross. At Maes y Forth, and contiguous fields, labourers have, at different times, discovered cause¬ ways, foundations of buildings, floors, and hearths; but no inscription has been found to developc it’s abstruse history, or to ascertain the propriety of the appella¬ tion of the Mediolanum of the Romans, with which some antiquarians have hon¬ oured it. About lm. above Meifod is Mathrafal, once a splendid palace, now a farm house, erected upon the site of a stately castle, which occupied nearly 2 acres, in Powys-land, guarded on one side by the river Fyrnwy, and on the other by a vast rampart of stone and earth, with a deep foss and a high keep at one corner. The original fortress, according to Caradoc, was built by Robert Uspont in 1211, and soon after besieged by Llew¬ elyn ap Jorwerth; but king John drew up an army and raised the siege, ordering the castle to be burnt. On the oppos¬ ite side of the river, in Gioern-ddu wood, is the circular intrenchment, mentioned p. 773, and in a field beyond, a round moat, supposed to have been a winter station of rhe Romans. To Oswestry, 5§ miles, Bingley. — Shrewsbury, 17 miles, Pennant; Bingley. — Llanrhaiadyr in Mochnant, 10 miles, Aikin. — Welsh Pool, Whiles, Warner. — Llanlillin, 9 miles. From Llanstephan Castle, 4 miles, Wyndham ; Skrine ; Barber. - Tenby, 13 miles, Malkin- - Caermarthen, 13 miles, Donovan; Evans. LLAUGHARNE, or Llacharn, or Tal- achar, in the hundred of Derllys, Caer- marthenshire, is one of the most sequest¬ ered towns that can be conceived; much inhabited by such as prefer a detachment from busy life, and an economic retire¬ ment. As a sea-port it is of little import¬ ance. The Church, dedicated to St. Martin, is large, handsome, and in good condition, ft is a vicarage, in the gift of the dean and chapter of Winchester. The population of this parish, including the township of Maish, in the year 1801, was 1484. The Market is on Friday. The Fairs are May 6, Sep. 2S, but latterly have been unattended. It is governed by a portrieve, recorder, aldermen, 2 attor- pies, 4 constables, and 76 burgesses. Sir Guido de Bran, in the reign of king John, enriched the corporation by the gift of lands. His cloak and mantle are preserv¬ ed in the Church. Mrs Foster left 61. per ann. towards teaching 12 children. The petty Sessions are held here. The parish contains 6000 acres. Towards the s. end of the town, close on the bay of Caermarthen, is a fine ruin of an old Cas¬ tle built or rebuilt by Guido de Bran, in the reign of Henry 3. Some say it was destroyed by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, in 1215. The remains of an ivy-clad Gate¬ way, and other ruins are still standing in the garden of major R. I. Starkie. Le- land says, “it longed some time to the earl of Northumberland.” It is now the property of the Ravenscroft family. A- notiier ruin in this parish is called Rock Castle, distant lm. Tradition says it was a monastery. The ancient name Llach¬ arn or Tal Llacharn, i. e. above the great lake, has probably been corrupted into it’s present name from the circumstance of a general Wm. Llaugharne, who besieged and took the castle in the year 1644. It’s more ancient british name was Aber Coran, from it’s site on the confluence of the Coran. This was the birth-place of the political Josiah Tucker, d.d. dean of Glo- cester, who died in 1799, aged 87. The Castle Inn seems the principal one in the place. The sands in the neighbourhood of Llaugharne, mr. Donovan says, are be¬ strewed with uncommon shells, partic¬ ularly of the Solen genus ; as the species Siliqua, Vagina, Ensis, Legumen, and Pellucidus. Also with many curious shells of the Tellina, and other genera. About the loose sands which lie between a cluster of cottages and the point of Llaugharne, the shells of Mactra lutraria occur in great profusion. At a few miles from Llaugharne is the village of Llanddozuror, on the s. bank of the 'lave. The scenery is highly beautiful. Another excursion may be made from Llaugharne to Whltland, where are the vestiges of an ancient abbey. From this place to Caermarthen the nearest way is by the village of St. Clare; but mr. Malkin says, that the traveller in pur¬ suit of objects, should return to visit Llan Stephan Castle and Kidwelly, whence he may either make his way to CAERMAk- then, or cross Burry River to Cheriton in Gower. At St, Clare there was an- 125 LLAUGHARNE. 823 dently a castle, [sec also p. 278.] hanging wood. He sought for Ty Gwyn, Mr. Evans went to a remarkable place, >m. distant from Llaugharne, called the ‘ green bridge in Wales ” It is a natural excavation in a rock, through which runs i small rivulet, and there disappears till t mingles it’s waters with the ocean. Af- er which he ascended the Taw to the ruins of Abba Uanda, or the Abbey of White Land; founded, according to Speed, av Rhys ap Theodore in 1086, and be- rame a burial place for the princes and thieftains of S. Wales; among whom was Cadwalader, son of Rhys ap Gryffydd, 1187. Others say it was built by Ber¬ nard, bishop of St. David’s, who died a- aout the year 1148. This abbey was greeted upon the site of a building of greater antiquity called Alba Domus or in welsh Ty-gtayn ar Daf, the summer re¬ sidence of the great Cambrian legislator, the Justinian of Britain, Ilo-aiel Dda. It was here that he formed a code of laws founded on long established customs, which has been the wonder of latter ages, for their wisdom, mildness, and humanity. This collection of laws was published by Wotton ; in 1730, under the title of “ Cy- freithjeu Hywel Dha acerail; seu legis Wallicae ecclesiastics et civiles, Hoeli Boni aliorum W’allis Principum.” How- el, having lived to see his system of leg¬ islation generally received and executed, departed this life, a.d. 948; after a long enjoyment of the less splendid, but more solid honours which result from peace, and an unwearied attention to the comforts of his people and the happiness of man¬ kind ; the subject of universal esteem while living, and veneration and regret when dead.—J. Evans. Other authors say, that besides the White House at which Howel Dha, in the year 940, con¬ vened the barons, clergy, and legislators of Wales, in order to reform the abuses of their ancient laws, there are the ruins of Alba Domus in a detached situation. The latter is said to stand about 5m. fiom St. Clare, on the r. hand of the road leading thence to Narberth ; and the former nearer the great turnpike road. At Whitland, mr. Donovan deviated to the r. down a narrow cart road to a forge, where he found the scattered unmeaning fragments of Whitland Abbey, immured within the bosom of a sequestered valley, sheltered from the n. and e. winds by a range of but was unsuccessful. In a spot on the opposite side of the Narberth road, train the station of the Abbey of Whitland is a house which retains that name, but the building is very inconsiderable. 'Tia more probable, adds he, that the palace of that great legislator occupied the rising ground above Whitland Abbey, where it is said a strong foundation and some leaden pipes have been detected in turn¬ ing up the ground. The former spot might form only an appendage to a more important building. The only frag¬ ment of antiquity which seems to connect with the Abbey is a stone fixed into the wall of a neighbouring building, upon which are sculptnred three scutcheons of arms. The valley, once the peaceful a- bode of the mild and secluded Cistercian, now resounds with the noise of two iron forges. A few miles from Whitland is the mountain Cil-Macn-Llwyd, where coins of Caesar, Domitian and others of the roman empire have been discovered ; an oval camp with a foss and vallum, marks one of their stations. At a short distance, upon a mountain on the banks of the Cleddy, is a circle of rude stones, a- bout 20 yards in diameter, called Meineu Gwyr, evidently the remains of a temple for druidic worship. Hence a wild coun¬ try leads to Narberth. The road to Tenby lies upon a high boundary of the sea, which is very inter¬ esting, till the traveller attains the AVa> Inn, situated on the selvage of Pembroke¬ shire. In this progress extensive views, ranging over the Bristol Channel are con¬ tinual ; but one coup d’aeil, “ High from the summit of a craggy cliff hung o’er the deep,” is eminently striking, magnificent¬ ly beautiful. The whole sweep of Caer- marthen bay, with it’s several estuaries, high cliffs, and swelling shores, appear beneath extending in one direction to the extreme point of Gower, and in the other to the isle of Caldy in Pembrokeshire; at the latter termination, the picturesque whitened town of Tenby, romantically built upon a tongue of rock projecting into the sea, seems issuing from the waves. From the grand amphitheatre of this bay, the eye roams over a wide ex¬ panse of sea, to the shores of Somerset and Devon, nearly 50m. distant, taintly penciled on the horizon, and terminated 827 LLAUGHARNE by the advancing swell of Llundy Island. Further w. the sea widens into the At¬ lantic ocean ; numerous barks in the bay, often sailing in different tracks are a great addition to the prospect; a large fleet of ships entering the channel at a remote distance, seems little more than dusky spots on the glistening expanse; the lout ensemble forms one of the most pleasing marine pictures. From New Inn (a small collection of cottages on the beach, with a large old mansion lately modern¬ ized, but seemingly of the foundation of Elizabeth’s time, and where there is no house of public accommodation, as the name would imply) the remainder of the road lies among numerous collieries be¬ longing to lord Milford. On the road to Narberth, the country partakes of little variety till the declivity of a bold swelling hill near Tavernspite is gained; and in wet weather the road is uncommonly bad, the soil being of a spon¬ gy argillaceous kind. There is a turnpike road from St. Clare, w. passing through Wliilland. David Edwards built the bridge Pontloyrig over the river Taw which divides the counties of Caermarthen and Pembroke, near Whitland. Narberth is entered at the close of a 9m. stage. To Tenby, 16 miles, Barber; Skrine. — Llan Stephen, 4 mites, Malkin. — Narberth, 15 miles, Donovan ; Evans. — Carew, by way of St. Clare, 19 miles, Wynd ■ bam. From Ostermouth, 10 miles, Barber. - Swansea, 8 miles, Evans; LLOUGIIOR or Castel Llychwr, in the hundred of Swansea, county of Gla- morgan; the Leucarum of Richard of Cirencester, and the 5th roman station on the Via Julia. The name of this place seems to imply that it was a fortification on the river Lloughor or Llychwr, which divides the counties of Glamorgan and Caermarthen. Tradition has handed to us another name, i. e. Tie Afrange or Beaver Town; hence the place is called Trewanc, by way of derision. The Church, situated upon an eminence, com¬ manding extensive views, is dedicated to St. Michael; a rectory, in the gift of the lord Chancellor. In 1801 the population of the parish was 583. This poor village is one of the contributary boroughs with . LLOUGHOR. 828 CaerdifF, which send one member to par¬ liament. The corporation consists of a portrieve, IQ aldermen, an ale taster, and 2 serjeants at mace, with 2 impounding officers, and an unlimited number of constables. The parish contains about 2880 acres. Within the borough is a house called the Sanctuary, supposed to have been part of the manor of Millwood, or St. John’s, near Swansea, and formerly belonged to the knights of St. John, of Jerusalem. The ruins of a Castle of a quadrangular form, is situated upon a mount, with the remains of 2 ditches which formerly surrounded it. Mr. Rees Jones conjectures that the mount was thrown up by the romans, who had a garrison here, and that the castle was built by the first lords Marchers, to whom this district was granted. It was destroy¬ ed by Grul'ydd ab Rhys, in 1115. In the reign of Henry 2 it was granted to Hugh de Spencer who repaired or rebuilt the last Castle. Roman coins have been found here; and upon a common 3m. e. of the town, are two square encampments called Mynydd Cam Goch. A battle was fought near this place, which is called at this day Cadley or the field of battle. An extensive Coaliery is carried on here by Mess. Pengree and Co.; the coal of ex¬ cellent quality. Copper-works have been erected on the Caermarthenshire side of the river, opposite to Lloughor. Two hours before low water, and the same time before highwater, the river is ford¬ able. A ferry boat is however kept here at the expense of lord Cawdor, for the convenience of travellers. At the en¬ trance of the Court-yard of the parsonage house lies a large and curiously wrought stone, supposed by some to have been a roman miliary stone.—Carlisle’s Wales. The road to Llanelly lies through a region of coalieries, and is very indif¬ ferent. About half way between the ford and this town, stands Cajiel Ddewy, a small ruin, picturesquely accompanied by a yew-tree; and near it the remains of some deserted furnaces. To Llanelly, 5 miles Barber; Evans. LUDLOW. 830 From Presteign, 19 miles, Lipscomb. LUDLOW, is a maket town, much noted on account of it’s ancient celebrity, situat¬ ed upon a subordinate summit, in a lux¬ uriant district, on the southern edge of Shropshire. Most of the houses are well built, the streets wide, and well pav¬ ed, lying in diverging and inclined di¬ rections from the highest and central part of the town, which was once defend¬ ed by a wall, part of which remains. It had also 7 gates, but of those one only is standing. Ludlow contains npwards of 800 houses, and nearly 4000 inhabitants. About 600 are employed in trade and manufactures. Churchyard, who wrote during the reign of Elizabeth, remarks of this place, “ The town doth stand most part upon an hill, built well and fayre, with streates both large and wide: the houses such, where straungers lodge at will. As long as there the councell lists abide, both fine and clean the streates are all throughout, with condits cleere, and wholesome water springs; and who that lists to walke the towne about, shall find therein some rave and pleasant things: but chiefly there the ayre so sweet you have, as in no place ye can no better crave ” No historic records supply any account of this town, prior to the building of the castle, with the history of which it is intimately connected. It was incorporated originally by Edward 4, and is at present governed by a recorder, 2 bailiffs, 2 jus¬ tices, 12 aldermen, 25 common council men, town-clerk, coroner, and other in¬ ferior officers. The election of the bailiffs annually on the 28th of October, is attend¬ ed with considerable magnificence. A day of feasting and conviviality soon af¬ terwards takes place, succeeded by balls in honour of the bailiffs, supported with uncommon splendour and expense, to which are invited a numerous and select company of the nobility, gentry and trades¬ people ; who here admix in the nimble dance without distinction of rank. A Court of Record is held weekly on Tues¬ day. Ludlow sends 2 members to parlia¬ ment, elected by the common burgesses, consisting of about 500. The principal trade of the town consists of the manu¬ factory of gloves, in which a considerable number of persons are employed; it has however been often remarked, by travel¬ lers, to contain an unusual number of malsters. The town and neighbourhood is much inhabited by families of indepen¬ dent fortune, who are attracted thither from distant parts, probably by the pleas¬ antness and healthy situation of the place. The Castle of Ludlow still merits the epithet of “ nobile,” given it by Giral- dus; seated upon a bold wooded rock, upon the n-w. angle of the town, at the foot of which runs theTeme. It presents a commanding and imposing object in the approach from the vale below. Tlie situation of this castle is beautiful and in¬ teresting, the country round is pleasant, fertile, and populous. According to Camden, this castle bore the name of Dinan and L.lystwysoc, or the Prince’s pal¬ ace. It is strongly surrounded by walls of great height and thickness, and fortified with round and square towers at irregular distances. The interior apartments were defended on one side by a deep ditch cut out of the rock ; on the other by an abrupt precipice overlooking the vale of Corve. The castle was divided into two separate parts: the castle, in which were the palace and lodgings; and the outworks called the Barbican. The outworks took in a large compass of ground, including the court of judicature and records, stables, and other offices, gardens, and bowling-green. In front of the castle a spacious plain extended 2m. It’s walls by some, are said to have been 1m. in compass, but Leland in this dimension includes those of the town. In 1772 a public walk round the castle was laid out and planted with beeches at the expense of the countess of Powis, which have now attained a considerable size. The walks are fohntd entirely round the castle, and are resorted to as a fashionable promen¬ ade. On the w. rises the lofty hill of Whitecliff. On the side opposite the town are seen various meanderings of the Temc. Oakley Park, the celebrated Caer Caradoc, and ihc Clee-hill. The original formation of the Castle has generally been attributed to Roger de Montgomery, earl of Shrewsbury, who came into England with the conqueror. The date of it’s erection is fixed by mr. VVarton to the year 1112. Others say it was erected be¬ fore the conquest, by Edric Sylvaticus, earl of Shrewsbury, whom Roger du Montgomery was sent into the Marches of Wales to subdue, and with whose es¬ tates he was rewarded by the Conqueror. Hugh, the son of Roger de Montgomery S31 LUDLOW. &32 died in the prime of life. The grandson, ford earl of Leicester, the aspiring leader Robert de Belesme, earl of Shrewsbury, of the confederate barons, who, about the having joined the party of Robert de year 1263 took possession of all the royal Courthose duke of Normandy against castles and fortresses. During the next Henry 1, the castle was forteited to the two centuries scarcely any thing is record- crown. Becoming thus a princely resi- ed of this castle. In the 13th year of dence, it was guarded by a numerous garrison. After the accession of Stephen, the governor, Gervase Paganelle, having betrayed his trust, in joining the empress Maud, Stephen besieged it, in which at¬ tack some writers say he succeeded, and others, that he failed. The most prevail¬ ing opinion is, that Paganelle, repenting, wished to obtain the king’s forgiveness, and offered to capitulate; to which Steph¬ en readily acceded A.n. 1239. About the year 1176, Henry the 2d presented it, with the dale of Corve, to Fulke Fitz-Warine, or de Dinan, to whom succeeded Joccas de Dinan. Between the latter and Hugh de Mortimer, lord of Wigmore. terrible dissentions arose, so that Mortimer in roving about WhiteclifF heath, was sur¬ prised and seized. He was conducted to Ludlow Castle, and confined in one of the towers, which to this day is called Mortimer’s-tower; whence he was not liberated till an immense ransom was paid. [This tower is now ignominiously occupied as a mug-house, the ancient win¬ dows of which have been, supplied with modern enlarged square ones, stuck in without order, obtruding on every be¬ holder a glaring effigy of depraved taste. If the proprietor would allow it, a small subscription of the inhabitants might speedily rescue this venerable tower from the gross barbarism of reform, by substituting windows adapted to the pre¬ vailing architecture of the building, The side of this tower facing the town exhibits no windows, but has been adapted to a Fives’-court.] The castle was again attached to the crown in the 8th year of king John, who presented it to Philip de Albina, from whom it descended to the Lacies, of Ireland, Walter de Lacy, the last of the family, died without issue, and be- quethed it to his grand-daughter Maud, the daughter of his deceased son Edward, and wife of Peter de Geneva, or Jeneville a Poictevin of the house of Lorrain, from whose posterity it passed by a daughter to the Mortimers, and from them became hereditary to the crown. In the reign of Henry 3, it was seized by Simon de Mont- Henry 6, it was in possession of Richard duke of York, who drew up an affected declaration of allegiance to the king, pre¬ tending that his army of 10,000 men which he had raised in the Marches of Wales, was for the purpose of promoting the public welfare. The event of this commotion between the royalists and yorkists, which was the defeat of Rich¬ ard’s perfidious attempt, is well known. The castle of Ludlow was then plundered, the troops seizing on every thing of value. The king sent hither the dutchess of York, with her two younger sons, to be kept in ward, accompanied by her sister the dutch¬ ess of Buckingham. The castle was next put into the possession of Edward duke of York, afterwards (king Edward the 4th.) who then resided at the castle of Wig- more, and who, in order to revenge the death of his father, had collected some troops in the Marches, and attached the garrison to his cause. On his accession to the throne he repaired the castle, and made it the court of his son, the prince of Wales. On the death of Edward, his eldest son was here proclaimed king, by the name of Edwatd 5th. The young monarch and his brother were, however, soon sent for from the castle, by their hypocritical uncle, the tyrant Richard; who is supposed to have disposed of these innocent obstacles to his ambition, by foul and unnatural murder. In the reign of Henry 7, his eldest son, Arthur prince of Wales, inhabited die castle, and married Catherine of Arragon, daughter to Ferdinand king of Spain. To this event soon succeeded the untimely and lamented death of that accomplished prince. He hied in Ludlow Castle, April 2, 1502. His body, according to Speed, was buried in the cathedral at Worcester, in the s. isle of the choir, without any in¬ scription. Tradition says that his bowels were deposited in the chancel of Ludlow church, and that his heart, contained in a leaden box, was taken up some time ago. This account derives some credit from the following narration, which is given in Hodges’s “ History of Ludlow Castle.” 833 LUDLOW. 834 ‘ On opening a grave in the chancel, some /ears ago, a leaden box was taken up and sold by the gravedigger to Robert Pitt, a plumber. This circumstance reaching :he hearing of rar. Fenton, then rector, :he box and it’s contents were repurchased ind restored, unopened, to their former iituation.” Catherine of Arragon, the widow of prince Arthur, was married by bis brother Henry 8, but afterwards di¬ vorced, and died at Kimbolton, in Hunt- ngdonshire, Jan. 29, 1536. The castle ■vas long the palace of the prince of Wales, ind was also the habitation of his deputies :he lords presidents of Wales, who held n it the court of the Marches. It would herelore scarcely have been supposed hat it’s external splendour should have suffered neglect, if Powell, the welsh historian, had not related, that “ Sir Henry Sidney, who was made lord president in 1564, repaired the castle of Ludlow, which is the cheefcst house within the Marches, being in great decai, as the chapell, the court-house, and a fair foun- taine.” He died at the bishop’s palace in Worcester, a.d. 1586, and was conveyed thence to his house at Penshurst in Kent, where he was interred. But previous to this his bowels were buried in the deans’s chapel in the cathedral church of Worces¬ ter ; and his heart was brought to Ludlow and deposited in the same tomb with his dearly beloved daughter Ambrosia, with¬ in the little oratory which he had made in the church. A leaden Urn, supposed to have contained his heart is now in the possession of mr. Samuel Nicholas, of Leominster; it is about 6 inches deep and 5 inches diameter at the top ; the follow¬ ing inscription runs three times round it. HER L1TH THE HAR1E OF SYR HENRYE SIDNY L. P. ANNO DOMNI 1586. A print of this urn is given in the Gentle¬ man’s Magazine, vol. lxiv, page 785. In what manner it was obtained from the tomb of Ambrosia in Ludlow Church, is not known, but the possession of it has been traced to that learned antiquarian and divine dr. Coningesby, of Bodenham, who was eminent in historical researches, and left behind him numerous valuable manu¬ scripts and other proofs of his indefati¬ gable exertions in pursuit of his favourite study. In 1616, the creation of prince Charles, (afterwards king Charles the 28 1st) to the principality of Wales, and earl¬ dom of Chester, was celebrated at the castle with great magnificence. It be¬ came next distinguished by the represen¬ tation of Comus in 1634, when the carl of Bridgewater was lord President, the prin¬ cipal parts being performed by his lord¬ ship’s sons and daughter, in which masque the castle was represented in one of the scenes. The subject was taken from the circumstance of lord Brachley, lady Alice, and the hon. Thomas Egerton, sons and daughters of the earl of Bridgewater, in advancing to Ludlow castle, being lost in a w'ood in the night. Afterwards, Charles the 1st, going to pay a visit at Powis Cas¬ tle, was here splendidly received and entertained. But “ pomp and feast, and revelry, with mask, and antique pageant¬ ry” were soon succeeded in Ludlow Cas¬ tle by the din of arms. During the usurp¬ ation of Cromwell it was garrisoned in be¬ half of the king. In the summer of 1645, a force of nearly 2000 horse and foot, col¬ lected from the garrisons of Ludlow, Hereford, Worcester, and Monmouth, were defeated by the parliamentary army, near Ludlow; and the castle was surrend¬ ered on the 9th of June 1646. The court of the Marches was abolished, and the lords presidents were discontinued in 1688. From this period may be reckoned the decay of the castle. No longer guard¬ ed even by a steward, it fell into neglect, and the inhabitants lived upon the spoils of it’s curious and valuable ornaments. It’s admirable courts, it’s royal apartments, halls, state-rooms, all were stripped, ransacked, and plundered. While the principality court existed, Butler enjoyed the lucrative post of Steward: his leisure hours were passed in a room over the gate¬ way of the Castle, where the first part of “ Hudibras” was written. In Buck’s An¬ tiquities, published in 1774, which prob¬ ably remained long in ms., it is asserted that “ many of the royal apartments were entire ; the sword, the velvet hangings, and some furniture were preserved.” Grose, who wrote about the same time, represents the chapel (which is a circular building standing about the middle of the inner court) as having abundance of coats of arms upon the panncls and the hall decorated with similar ornaments, and with lances, spears, firelocks, and oLd armour. The singular form, and ancient 835 LUDLOW. 836 saxon decorations of this chapel deserve attention. An elegant moulding runs round the outside, and the beautiful saxon arch of the doorway is entire, but the roof is gone and the eastern end is entirely demolished. “ In it besides (the works are here unnatn’d) a Chappell is, most trim and costly sure, so bravely wrought, so fayre and finely fram’d that to worlds end, the beautie may endure. About the same, are armes in colours sitch, as fewe can shewe, in any soyle or place: a great device, a worke most rare and ritch; which truely shewas, the armes, the blood and race of sondrie kings, but chiefly noble men, that here in prose I will set out with pen. Sir Walter Lacie was first owner of Lud- loe castle, whose armes are there, and so follows the rest by order as you may reade.” A list is then given by this auth¬ or of the ancient lords of the castle, and lords presidents of the marches, whose arms were in the chapel. Their number amounts to 44. He then concludes his account of the castle in the following words. “ Now it is to be rehearsed, that sir Harry Sidney being lord president buy It 12 roumes in the sayd castle, which good¬ ly buildings doth shewo a great beautie to the same. He made also a goodly wardrobe underneath the new parlor, and repayred an old tower, called Mortymer’s tower, to keepe the auncient records in the same : and he repayed a fayre roume under the court house, to the same en- tent and puipose, and made a great wall about the woodyard, and built a most brave condit within the inner court: and all the nevve buildings over the gate, sir Harry Sidney (in his daies and governe- ment there) made and set out to the hon¬ our of the queene and glorie of the castle. There are in a goodly or stately place set out my lord earl of Warwick’s armes, the earle of Darbie, the earle of Worcester, the earle of Penbroke and sir Harry Sid¬ neys armes in like maner : al these stand on the left hand of the chamber. On the other side are the armes of Northwales and Southwales, two red lyons, and two golden lyons, prince Arthurs. At the end of the dyning chamber, there is a pretty device how the hedgehog brake the chayne. and came from Ireland to Lud- loe. There is in the hall a great grate of iron of a huge height.” Over several pf the stable doors still remain the arms of Elizabeth and the earl of Pembroke. Over the inner gate of the castle, are tht arms of this queen and of the Sidney family, very entire, with the following inscription. HOM1NI3VS INCRATIS LOQVIMINI LAPIDES. ANNO REGNI REGINA! ELYZABETHAL, 23. THE 28 YEAR COPLET OF HIS PRESIDENCY OF SIR HENRI SIDNEY, KNIGHT OF THE MOST NOBLE ORDER OF THE CARTER, ET C. 1581. Anno Domini Milesimo Qvicentissimo Octuagesimo completo, Anno Regni se- renissimae illustrissimae Reginas- Eliza¬ beths vicessimo tertio evrrente, 1581. Mr. H. J.Todd, in his very learned edition of Comus, says, “A gentleman who vis¬ ited the castle in 1768, has acquainted me that the floors of the great Council'Cham¬ ber, were then pretty entire, as was the staircase. The covered steps leading to the chapel were remaining, but the cov¬ ering of the chapel was fallen : yet the arms of some of the lords presidents, painted upon the walls, were visible. In the great council chamber was inscribed upon the wall a passage from 1 Sam. xiii, 3. Tradition says that Comus was per¬ formed in this room. Two elder trees of large growth, stand in the hall. From the valuable collections of the same gen¬ tleman, mr. Todd was favoured with sev¬ eral curious extracts relating to the early history of the castle, and it’s connexion with the Marches. The Welsh not being I wholly conquered, but only driven into the mountainous parts, whence they made frequent incursions upon the bordering inhabitants; occasioned this and many other castles to be built for the defence of the country, about the time of the nor- man conquest, whence the possessors sallied out and exceedingly molested the Welsh. Three leading eras are pointed out by the architecture, as well as the history of Ludlow castle; i.e. the time of Roger de Monto Gomcri, who erected the principal part; the period of it’s being fitted up as a royal residence; and the ad¬ ditions made by sir Henry Sidney. The great tower, and apartments on the w. and n-w. sides, with the circular part of the chapel, are probably the work of the founder. The buildings on the 1. of the entrance and some low rooms towards the e. side were perhaps the additions made to it by Edward 4; or built when the cas- 837 LUDLOW. 838 tie was occupied by prince Arthur. The they being found a “ great grievance and remainder, which includes the gate-way, oppression to the subject, an intollerable and a long range of embattled buildings burden to the principality, and a means of near the entrance of the outer court, is supporting arbitrary power.” Henry 7, evidently the addition of later times. An a native of Pembroke, being much attach- old tower, called the Magazine Tower, ed to the prosperity of Wales, effected in which stands on the 1. side of the gate- part what his son Henry 8 completed, way was certainly rebuilt by sir Henry the junction of these lordships with the Sidney. When the title of Mercia property of the crown and the incorpora- was extinguished in the monarchy of the tion of Wales with England. A schedule whole isle, the name was still retained in was taken of the contents of the castle in the counties bordering upon Wales and the year 1708, being the 7th of Ann. The Scotland, from the saxon word mearc, different rooms are called, the hall, coun- signifying a note or mark, and, by way of cil-chamber, passage, president’s with- common speaking, at last applied to drawing room, president’s bed-chamber, boundaries of counties. Hence originated hung with tapestry, servant’s room ad- the title of lords Marchers , who procured joining to my lord’s hung with tapestry, seignorities by the nature of their con- m y lord’s closet, passage by the with- quests, being authorized herein by the drawing room, closet near the passage, king. For the kings of England, perceiv- plate room, great dining room, prince ing the difficulty of effecting the conquest Arthur’s room, ladies withdrawing room, of Wales, offered to several of the nobili- ladies lodging room partly hung with yel- ty and gentry the grant of such districts as l° w damask, ladies maid’s room hung they could secure. Their heirs were also permitted to hold the lands thus conquer¬ ed, freely per baroniam, with the exer¬ cise of royal jurisdiction. They were with old Kidderminster stuff, ladies’ clos¬ et, pantry, chief juslice’sroom, servant’s room adjoining, kitchen, yeoman of the woodyard’s room, pastry room, chaplain’s therefore styled Lords or Barons Marches, chamber, second judge’s room, puny But this title was inherited by assumption judge’s room, passage to the judge’s room, and permission, not by grant; hence the cellars, puny judge’s room up two pairs of tenure of these conquered lands were pre. stairs, brewhouse, in the wardrobe, capt. carious, as they were frequently seized Haughton’s room, parlour, kitchen, room again by the Welsh. The earls held over the parlour, room over the kitchen, their courts each in his own jurisdiction, garrets, chapel, passage next the council till Henry 8 fixed a court at Ludlow, chamber. [More enlarged accounts of which was continued till William 3, after ^ )e history of Ludlow may be found in the death of the earl of Macclesfield, the Leland; in Churchyard; in Todd’s edi- last lord president divided the govern- t>on of Comus; in the Ludlow Guide, ment between two peers of the realm, sold by H. Procter; and in Hodges s His- with the titles of Lords Lieutenants of torical Account of Ludlow Castle, sold N. and S. Wales. Before this time the hy W. Felton ] court consisted of a lord president, as many councellors as the prince pleased, a secretary, an attorney, a solicitor, and 4 justices, of the counties of Wales. The Marches extended from Bristol to Ches¬ ter ; all the country between Offa’s dyke and England, was called the marches, or bounds between the Welsh and English. The lords marchers had the power of life and death in their respective Courts, and in every frontier manor, a gallows was eTectcd. These disputes occasioned implacable hostilities, until the abolition of the regal jurisdiction in the Lords Marches. These courts were dissolved *t the revolution, by act of parliament, ODE TO LUDLOW CASTLE. PruuJ pile, that rear’st thy hoary head, in ruin vast, in silence dread, o’er Teme’s‘luxuriant vale, thy riioss-Slown halls, til)'precincts drear, to musing Fancy’s pensive ear unfold a varied tale. When terror stalk’d the prostrate land with savage Cambria’s ruthless hand, beneath thy frowning shade, mixed with the grazeis of the plain, the plundered, helpless peasant train, in sacred ward were laid. From yon high tower the archer drew with steady hand the stubborn yew, while, tierce in martial state, the mailed host in long array, with crested helms and banners gay, burst from the thundering gate. LUDLOW. 840 In liappier times, how brightly blazed the hcJrth with ponderous billets raised, how rung the vaulted halls, when smoak’d the feast, when care was drown’d when songs and social glee wentround,, where now the ivy crawls. ’T is past! the marcher’s princely court, the strength of war, the gay resort; in mouldering silence sleeps; and o’er the solitary'scene, while Nature hangs her garlands green, neglected Memory weeps. The muse too weeps: in hallowed hour here sacred Milton own’d her power, and woke to nobler song; the wizard’s baffled wiles essayed, here first the pure angelic maid subdued th’enraptur’d throng. - But see t beneath yon shattered roof what mouldy cavern, sun-beam proo f , with mouth infectious yawns 1 O! sight of dread 1 O! ruthless doom! on that deep dungeon’s solid gloom nor hope nor day-light dawns. Yet there, at midnight’s sleepless hour, while boisterous revels shook the tower, bedewed with damps forlorn, the warrior captive pressed the stones, and lonely breathed unheeded moans, despairing of the morn. That too is past; unsparing Time, stern miner of the tower sublime, it’s night of ages broke, freedom and peace with radiant smile now carol o’er the dungeon vile that cumb’rous ruins choak. Proud relic of the mighty dead ! be mine with shuddering awe to tread thy roofless, weedy hall, and mark with Fancy’s kindling eye, die steel-clad ages gilding by thy feudal pomp recall. Peace to thy stern heroic age 1 nor stroke of wild unhallowed rage assail thy tottering form! we love, when smiles returning day, in cloudy distance to survey the remnant of the storm. From the “ Athenaeum,” vol. 2. The Church is a large cruciform gothic structure, placed upon the highest part of the elevated ground forming the centre of the town. It consists of a fine tower, a nave, and side aisles, a cross aisle, or n. and s. transept, and a fine chancel, with 2 smaller chancels or chapels, oneon each side the w. end of the high chancel. The high tower, is a very prominent object in every approach The upper part of it was highly ornamented with statutes of saints, c. hut proving obnoxious to the officers of Cromwell’s army, they were mutilated or destroyed. It contains 8 hells, and a small one. The largest bell weighs 2,8951bs. It has a clock, and the chimes are on a singular construction, put up by an ingenious man of the name Green, in the year 1795, containing 7 tunes, viz. Old 104th, See the conquering hero comes, Highland laddie, 113th Psalm, Rule Britannia, Blue Bells of Scotland, and Britons strike home. A handsome embattled portico on the s. side is the principal entrance ; advancing into the church, six light gothic fluted arches ap¬ pear on each side; 4 similar ones of massy dimensions, support the tower. The height from the battlements of the tower to the roof of the high chancel is 79 feet, and thence to the floor of the nave 52£ feet. The excellent organ cost 1000/. and was presented by the late George Edward Henry Arthur, earl of Powis, in 1764. Under the organ gallery is. the en¬ trance to the chancel, which is now only used for the administration of the sacra¬ ment. This part is finished in the cathe¬ dral style, with 14 stalls on each side, the seats of which all turn back, exhibiting specimens of uncouth devices. At the s. side of the e. wall, is a door which leads through a cavity to an iron grated window, supposed to have been used as a place of penance. Sotpe of the glass painted windows arc in good preservation ; that over the altar-piece represents the history of St. Laurence, (to whom the church is dedicated) in 56 compartments. These de¬ signs do not however appear to have pos¬ sessed much merit, and they have been in¬ jured by the broken panes being supplied by common glass. In the wall, near the al¬ tar, are two stone stalls, with a piscina opposite. The roof is wainscotted with oak, the pannels of which are decorated with painted figures of angels, bearing scrolls, with quotations from the Te Deum. Upon a tablet affixed to one of the pillars which support the tower, is an inscription in memory of “The honour¬ able Alice Burrard, daughter of Richard, lord Herbert, baron of Cherbury, in Eng¬ land, and of Castle Islands, in Ireland,” dated 1703. In the chancel are also the following monuments To the memory of Robert Townsend and his wife, with figures of them and their children round the bottom; above, are the arms of the family, bearing date 1581. To Theophi- lus Salwey, esq. son of Edward Salway, and grandson to major Richard Salway, 841 LUDLOW. 842 who “ sacrificed all and every thing in his power, in support of public liberty, and in opposition to arbitrary power.” To Ambrosia Sidney (daughter to sir Henry Sidney, lord President) who died in I.ud- low Castle in the year 1574. To Lady Eure 1612. To Edward Wates and his wife, kneeling opposite to each other. To Edmund Walter, esq. chief-justice of three shires in S. Wales, &c. and to his wife, daughter of Thomas Hackluit of Eyton, esq. But none of these monu¬ ments are remarkable for elegance or beauty. The pavement of the chancel is almost covered with funeral memorials, among which names occur that of a daugh¬ ter of Thomas, lord Folliot, baron of Ballishannon, in Ireland, who married into the two ancient families of Powell and Jones, Radnorshire. In a chapel to the 1. of the chancel are three painted windows containing 18 compartments ; the subjects taken from the lives of the Apostles; with a rosary. In this chapel is an elegant marble tomb to sir Thomas Bridgeman, sergeant at law. Somewhere in the church is interred Sir John Bridge- man, the last president but one of the council of the marches of N. Wales, who resided at Ludlow castle. Being extreme¬ ly rigid in punishing trifling crimes, he imprisoned a person named Ralph Gittins, who was bellman of the town. Sir John soon after died ; and in pure grati¬ tude for his kindness, Ralph honoured the knight with the following laconic epitaph. “ Here lies sir John Bridgeman, clad In his clay, God said to the Devil, Sirrah, take him away.” The opposite corresponding chapel con¬ tains the royal arms of Charles and an old coffer, in which are some pieces of ancient armour, on the eastern wall is fixed a board, having printed thereon the ten commandments, above which is another board with a coat of arms. The whole of the church is covered with lead. At the top upon the outside of the n. transept is an iron arrow, probably to indicate that a company of archers held their meetings here. The church and it’s contingencies form a rectory in the king’s patronage and gift of the chancellor, amounting to 200/. a year. This establishment also supports a reader. It is In the bishopric of Hereford, and archdeaconry of Salop, the Courts of which for proving wills, granting letters of administration, icc. are held here. The proctors reside at Here¬ ford, and some of the 4 apparitors reside in Ludlow. The Church Yard is rural, spacious, and surrounded with walks, planted with trees. The terrace upon the n. side commands an extensive and fine prospect. According to Leland, there was formerly a church of St. John, standing without the Broad-gate, which had a college with a dean and fellows. A- nother college was situated towards the bottom of Corve-street, founded by Wil¬ liam de Ludlow, knight, and lord of Stoke Castle, of which some trifling remains yet appear. Stukeley mentions a rich Priory out of the town on the n. side. There were evidently other religious houses and monasteries in Ludlow and it’s vicinity. Part of one is still remaining with a chap¬ el, contiguous to the n-w. part of the cas¬ tle. Adjoining the church-yard is an Alms-house, containing 33 comfortable apartments for aged widows and widow¬ ers, founded by mr. John Hosier, a mer¬ chant, in the year I486. It was rebuilt by the corporation in the year 1758, over the door of which is the following inscrip¬ tion. “Domum hanc Eleemosynavium munificentia Johannis Hosyer, mercato- ris, anno Salutis, mcccclxxxvi, primitus extructam, Temporis injuria labefactam et ruituram ; in Dei Optimi Maximi glo- riam, pii Fundatoris memoriam, et com- modiorem Pauperum receptionem, ab ip- sis usque fundamentis propriis sumptibus resuscitarunt, ampliarunt, ornarunt, Bal- livi, Burgenses, et Communitas villac hujus de Ludlow, anno Domini mdcclviii, augustissimi Regis Georgii secundi tri- cessimo primo.” Over this inscription is the arms of the town. Immediately on the w. of the church is a range of build, ing, with a court and gate-way, once used as a College, and still retains the name. It was probably attached to the church, which was once collegiate. Adjoining the n. side of the College is the Rectory House. Other Alms- flouses in separate cottages, with a little garden to each, are situated nearly at the bottom of Corve- street, built in the year 1590. Adjoining this Alms-house, was St. Leonard's chapel, in which till the middle of the 17th cen¬ tury divine service was performed three times in each year. The structure is however now delapidatcd. It's bell was 843 LUDLOW. - 844 removed to the Cross, and great part of it’s Old Streets is called the Bull-ring from it’s stone was used for the foundation of having been appropriated formerly,to the Corve-Bridge. A Meeting-House belong- savage diversion of bull-baiting. This ing to the class of dissenters called In- relic of barbarism is not however now dependents stands a little below the Alms- practised here, tho’ unfortunately it still Houses. A handsome building entitled exists in some parts of this enlightened the “ Ebenezer Chapel,’’ has been erected island; yes, maugre the distinguished ef- in Teme-street, by the Wesleyan Metho- forts of lord Erskine to obtain the authori- dists. The Cross is a handsome stone ty of the legislature against cruelty to ani- building, placed at the top of Broad- mals, it still exists, because savages yet street, nearly in the centre of the town, exist, who are inimical to reason, justice, in the year 1741. The rooms over it and humanity. Unsuccessful as this are appropriated to a public school, sup- nobleman’s attempts have been in plead- ported by voluntary subscription, for 30 ing the cause of the helpless, who cannot poor boys and 15 girls, who are clothed make hirr) any return, and for the speech- and supplied with books. The boys, at a less, who cannot thank him, he is entitled certain age, are apprenticed, with a pre- to the affection of every sympathising miumof5/. The Market-House, is in mind, because his exertions spring from the middle of Castle-street, the lower pure benevolence and (he most disinter- compartment of which is open, and csted generosity. The principal Inns, serves for a corn-market; the rooms a- are the Crown and Angel, Broad-street, bove, supported by arched-walls, are used for families, and are posting houses. Ele- for meetings of the members of the cor- phantand Castle, and Feathers, Bull-ring; poration, bailiffs’ balls, subscription as- White Horse, Sun, George, Red Lion, semblies, &c. It measures 141 feet long, Castle-street; Compasses, Corve-street; by 24 feet wide. On the n. side is a con- Golden Lion, Old-street. A Bowling- duit, affording both river and spring water, green adjoins the Castle, a Coffee-room The Guild-Hall is an elegant modern and Billiard-room is at the Angel Inn. In building, situated in Mill-street, used for winter there are dancing and card assem- the quarter-sessions, &c. The Gram,- blies every 3 weeks; card and oyster mar School, in Mill-street, was founded clubs at the inns; Races in the month of by Edward 4. Besides a regular classical July, for 2 days, a 50 1. plate each day; education and preparation for the univer- theatrical amusements in the evening, a sity, the French and Italian languages, ball on the 2d day, and a public break- and other accomplishments are taught by fast the following morning. A Dispen- proper masters. To this school some sary for the benefit of the poor is support- valuable exhibitions in the University of ed by subscription. The Charitable So- Oxford are attached. A donation furnish- ciety for relieving Lying-in Women was es 4 boys with black gowns and books, established January 1, 1810, supported There are also in this town two respect- by donations and subscriptions. A able private boarding-schools for young la- Lodge of Free Masons is held at the An¬ dies. The Theatre, situated in Mill-street, gel Inn, who join with the lodges of is small and it’s exterior inelegant; yet Hereford and Leominster in supporting a within it is commodious and neat. The triennial feast. Three troops of Yeo- Worcester company perform every yeaf manry Cavalry called the Ludlow and during the race week, and once in three Bishop’s Castle Cavalry are commanded by years make a stay of about two months. the right honourable viscount Clive. The Prison is called Goalford’s Tower, In 1790 a Canal was begun to be cut from being erected in 1764, upon the from Leominster to Stourport which has site of a tower so called. The Work- been carried only a few miles below house here seems well managed, the poor Tenbury in Worcestershire, for want of a being employed in making their own ap- persevering spirit. It passes through parel, except the weaving. And in the Wouferton, in the parish of Richard’s Cas¬ cades that are carried on they are allowed tie. Of the literary establishments 2rf. out of every shilling they earn, as a of Ludlow, little can be said; yet a sub- gratuitous encouragement. The open scription Library, was instituted in Jan. part of the town at the head of Corve and 1807, a room appropriated, and a librarian 816 145 LUDLOW. ippointed ; which promises to be success- ul and permanent. The Race Course, called Old Field, lies at the distance of 2m. on the road to Coalbrook-Dale, which is also resorted to for airings, on horse¬ back, in curricles, &c. Besides the fashionable prominade round the castle and the public walk called Hackluit’s Close, the Whitecl'iff, opposite the castle, is much resorted to in fine weather. This eminence commands many, various, and striking views. The ancient Whit¬ sun Sports are still kept up in a remote part of the town called Old-gate’s Fee, where two-lofty May-poles are annually hung from their tops to within 12 feet from the ground, with garlands of various coloured paper, disposed with great labour and ingenuity. On Shrove-Tuesday, a singular custom prevails here. A rope 36 yards long and 3 inches in circum¬ ference. is provided by the chief constable or chamberlain, which at the hour of 3 in the evening is exhibited atone of the windows of the market-house; at 4 it is thrown down into the street, where it is seized by several hundreds of people. The parties who contend for bearing a- way the prize are the inhabitants of Cas¬ tle and Broad-streets against those of Old street and Corve-street. ,A scene of great tumult succeeds till one of the parties be¬ come successful in dragging the rope to the extremity of one of the wards. This uncouth and dangerous amusement, it is said, was adopted by the corporation in contempt of the unjust execution of two bailiffs of the town, by the royal party, during the contention of the houses of York and Lancaster. < Two miles n-w. of Ludlow is Oakley- Park, the elegant seat of Dowager Lady Clive. The house is charmingly situated upon the banks of the Teme ; the con¬ tiguous park contains some fine old oaks. The principal part of the mansion is of modern construction, which is well fur¬ nished, and contains some good pictures, particularly one by Wenix, upwards of 13 feet by 8. This district formed part of the forest w'hich Milton, in his mask, sup¬ poses to have been the rendezvous of Comus and his rout; but a comparatively small portion of the wood now remains. At the picturesque village of Bromjield or Brumfield, immediately adjoining the mansion of Oakley-park, there was form¬ erly a Priory of benedictine monks. A gateway and fragments of some inner walls near the church, are all that remain of it. Of this place, Leland thus expres¬ sed! himself. “There was a priory or cell of monkes at Bromfeild, longging to Gloucester abbey. There were some¬ times prebendaries. Giffard gave it to Gloucester abbey. This house stood be¬ twixt Oney and Temde. Temde runneth nearest to the house itselfe. It standeth on the left ripe of it. Oney runneth by the bank syde of the orchard by the house, touching it with his right ripe, and a little beneath the house is the conflu¬ ence of the Oney and Temde.” About 2m. up the current of the Teme is Downton Castle, the manor and seat of Richard Payne Knight, esq., author of the “Landscape, a poem;” the ‘'Pro¬ gress of Civil Society;” “ An analytical Inquiry into the Principles of Taste ;” and other ingenious productions. Of the mansion, mr. Knight takes die following notice in the last mentioned publication. “ It is now more than 50 years since the author of this enquiry ventured to build a house ornamented with what are called gothic towers and battlements without, and with grccian ceilings, columns, and entablatures within; and tho’ his example has not been much followed, he has every reason to congratulate himself upon the success of the experiment; behaving at once, the advantage of a picturesque ob¬ ject, and of an elegant and convenient dwelling; tho’ less perfect in both res¬ pects than if he had executed it at a ma- turer age.” This mansion is built with stone, and situated upon an elevated bank. It was begun in 1774 and first in¬ habited in 1778. The exterior is stone and embattled, but scarcely any thing fur¬ ther marks the structure with any portion of the antique. The windows are square sashes and the doorway equally modern. The interior is fitted up with great taste and elegance. The apartments contain a few select pictures by eminent masters. The dining room is circular, about 28 feet in diameter, and occupies the entire square tower placed near the middle of the front. The ceiling rises to a dome, finished by a lanthorn, from which it is chiefly lighted. In 4recesses are as many side boards, placed between very largo pillars in pairs; in each recess is aiso a 847- LUDLOW. 848 niche, ornamented by a bronze statue, a moss-house, furnished with seats, intro- The Library is small, yet valuable ; in which is a picture of the proprietor of this domain, by Gainsborough. The bed¬ chambers are well finished elegant apart¬ ments. In one of them is a very rich chintz bed, in a recess, ornamented with pillars and pilasters of the Tuscan order; the bases and capitals are of the most deli¬ cate white marble, exquisitely polished. From the house, the opposite luxuriant wood, crowned with beautifully shaped hills, is seen to great advantage. The front commands a lawn falling rapidly into a rich valley, watered by the Teme, which flows in a wild and impetuous cur¬ rent over it’s rocky bed. Mr. Knight quitted his splendid mansion in the year 1810, to reside in a cottage in another part of the grounds; the former is now oc¬ cupied by his brother Thomas Andrew Knight, esq. author of a “ Treatise on the Culture of the Apple and Pear, and on the Manufacture of Cider and Perry also of several ingenious communications to the president of the Royal Society, on the principles of Vegetation. “ Vain is the pomp of wealth: it’s splendid halls, and vaulted roofs sustain’d by marble walls. In beds of state pale sorrow often sighs, nor gets relief from gilded canopies: but Arts can still new recreation find, to soothe the troubles of the afflicted mind; recall the ideal worth of ancient days, and man in his own estimation raise; visions of glory to his eyes impart, and cheer, with conscious pride, his drooping heart; make him forget the little plagues that spring from cares domestic, and in secret sting; the glance malignant of the scornful eye; the peevish question and the tart reply ; the never-ending frivolous debate, which poisons love with all the pangs of hate; suspicion’s lurking fiown and prying eye, that masks it's malice in love’s jealousy; and sprung from selfish vanity and pride, seeks with it’s worst effects, it’s cause to hide. Folly’s pert sneer, the prejudice of sense; and scoffing pity’s timid insolence : assuming bigotiy’s conceited pride, that claims to be man’s sole, unerring guide; dictates in all things, and would e’en compel the damn’d to go it’s own by-road to bell.” Landscape, book 2, li. 458—483. Descending from the house to a bridge, on the r., the walks may be entered upon, through a wicket, the key of which is kept by the inhabitants of the cottage at the bridge. Passing under a rock, over¬ hanging the path, a large cavern occurs, after which the path winds in various pleasing meanders, by the river side, till duces the rambler to a beautiful spot, con¬ tiguous to objects of great attraction ; par¬ ticularly an alpine bridge and mill, over¬ hung by a bold front of rock. Proceed through a gateon the same side of the river, to a continuation of the wood, and along a path less smooth, to another bridge near a very rural and characteristic cottage. Crossing this bridge and continuing a few hundred yards up the bank on the oppos¬ ite side, a grand and stupendous perpen¬ dicular rock is expanded to a great height, immediately on the r. the majestic front of which continues for a considerable space. Hence the traveller may continue his walk along rising ground to the vil¬ lage of Downton, as a short distance con¬ sisting of 2 or 3 farm houses, remarkable for nothing but the following epitaph in the church-yard, from the classic pen of the proprietor of this domain. “ Here moulrl’ring in the cold embrace of death, what once was elegance and beauty lies; mute is the music of her tuneful breath, and quench’d the radiance of her sparkling eyes. A prey to ling’ring malady she fell, ere yet her form had lost it’s vernal bloom. Her virtues, Misery, oft reliev’d, may tell; the rest, let silent Charity entomb, nor suffer busy, unrelenting zeal, e’en here, her gentle frailties to pursue. Let Envy turn from what it cannot feel, anil Malace rev’rence what it never knew: but should the justice of the good and wise condemn her faults, with judgment too severe, let mild-eyed Pity from the heart arise, and blot the rigid sentence with a tear. Died March 6, A. D. 1795, aged 21 years and 8 months.” [In order to make this excursion agree¬ able, those who engage in it should either be provided with some repasts, or extend the journey to the pleasing town of Leint- wardine, distant 3m. from Downton, where are good accommodations. This place is situated near the confluence of the Teme and Clun, on the road leading from Lud¬ low to Knighton, The shortest and most pleasing road from Downton to Lentvvar- dine is across the fields.] There is no open road to the Mill in the grounds of Downton Castle, in returning from the highest bridge and cottage, except on the r. side of the river; but at the mill the alpine bridge may be crossed, and the summit of the projecting high rock in front attained, by a winding path. After which, the walk conducts the explorer ol these recesses, ither to the mansion. 849 LUDLOW. 850 by keeping to the 1. > or to the stone bridge where he entered the walk, by following closely the banks of the river. Another walk leads from the Castle to a forge, where a handsome stone bridge of one arch has been erected by mr. Knight, with battlements. Hence a return to the upper stone bridge, near the Castle may be taken, from which there is a road leads to Ludlow, over the hills in an oblique direction, through extensive woods, into the highway from Wigmore. The scenery around Dou'nton Castle combines great variety, and is all of the picturesque and unadorned kind. The tasteful owner has done little more than direct the path, from which the natural beauties of the valley may be surveyed, to the best advan¬ tage. These grounds are neither adorned with urns, obelisks, temples, nor inscrip¬ tions ; a cave, a grot, and a bath, with benches and seats, disposed in places where you are invited to rest and examine the surrounding scenery, are almost all that can be enumerated in which the hand of art has intermeddled; yet they will not fail to surprise and inchant the lover of inartificial landscape. To his mind which improved these delightful scenes, may they long afford enjoyment; and then, even as he himself has wished, “ Here, on thy shady banks, pelucid Team, may Heaven bestow it’s Iasi poetic dream ; here may these oaks in life’s last glimmer shed their sober shadows o’er his drooping head, and those fair Dryad’s whom he sung to save, reward their pout with a peaceful grave!” Immediately adjoining the town of Lud¬ low, over the river Teme, w hich makes, in this place, the boundary between Shrop¬ shire and Herefordshire, appears Ludford- house the residence of mrs. Charlton, re¬ lict of E. L. Charlton, esq., situated in the village of Ludford, adjoining the church, upon rising ground. The building pre¬ sents an antique mixture of wood and plaister, with a garden and shrubbery, in front. A well here, called St. Julian’s, was famous, in ages more credulous than the present, for working wonderous cures. At the times of making the gen¬ eral survey called Domesday, this manor made part of the possessions of Osburn, son ol Richard, Lord of Richard’s Castle ; it was afterwards inherited by Jordan, called Jordan de Ludford, whose daugh¬ ter married Howel Vaughan, who gave or sold this manor to the Hospital of St. John the baptist, in Ludlow, with the messuage called St. Giles’s-house, in Lud¬ ford ; probably that which is now the manor-house. With the dissolution of monasteries, it seems, this hospital was abandoned, and the manor disposed of by Edward 6, to John earl of Waruuck, who transferred it to William Fox, in which family it continued till the year 1607, when it came into the possession of the Charltons. Of this family was sir Job Charlton, a gentleman who had the honour of frequent visits from king James when the latter resided at Ludlow Castle. Against the n. wall of Ludford Church is the following inscription cut upon a tab¬ let, to the memory of mrs. Holland. “ Sweet was thy converse, all thy actions kind, thy person beauteous, and thy mind resign’d; in arts of social life thou did’st excel, and what a wife should be thou practis’d well. Tho’ ’scap’d from life, and cast on that calm shore where pain, and cares, and passion are no more, yet fond affection oft shall drop a tear, till silent time shall place thy mourner here.” On the road to Leominster the back part of Ludford-house lies close to the road; which, except a common gate-way, pre¬ sents the appearance of a prison, rather than a genteel residence. A plantation of elms forms a pleasing public walk over a district of ground called Hackluit’s Close, WhitechfF rising immediately on the r. A short mile from Ludlow on this road, occurs Hack’s Ham, said to have been the residence of the uncle of George Barnwell; and a plot of land near it is still called Barnwell’s-green, from his waiting there to rob his uncle as he re¬ turned from Leominster fair. Near to this green is a wood, or thicket, in which he perpetrated the horrid act of murder. The house bears the appearance of the time of James 1. From these incidents Lillo formed the ground-work of his ex¬ cellent tragedy. A wooded bank con¬ tinues to the elegant residence ofTheoph- ilus Richard Salwey, esq., called the Lodge, lm. 6f. delightfully situated upon an elevation on the r. close to the road skirted by extensive woods. The house, a modern erection, designed by mr. Sym- onds of Hereford, presents a fanciful but very elegant and light piece of architec¬ ture ; and the interior is remarkably treat and well finished. From the summit of the contiguous mountain, called Mary’s 851 LUDLOW. 852 knol!, or Marinoll, is an extensive view of the country round. At the distance of a mile to the r. is the Hays, a small villa, the rural and elegant country residence of the relict of the late John Salwey, esq. who filled the office of high-sheriff of the county of Hereford in the year 1780. It is placed upon a lofty summit, surround¬ ed by an extensive park and thick woods. On the 1. is the Moor, the residence of Richard Salwey, esq., surrounded with a park containing an intermixtnre of planta¬ tions and water. In the 16th century this estate belonged to the family of the Littletons. Batchcot, 1 ^m. the residence of the Rev. R. F. Halifax, rector of the parish church of Richard’s Castle, placed very advantageouly upon rising ground. The Church is a fine old structure, in which are some good specimens of painted glass. Richard’s Castle, '2m. was built before the conquest, probably by Richard Scrope, in the time of Edward the Confessor. [Dugd. Bar. v. i. p. 453-1 At the period of the Domesday survey, it was held by Osborne Fitz-Richard, whose grandson assumed the name of Say, and was killed in Wales, in the reign of Rich¬ ard 1. Margaret, his grand-daughter, conveyed it in marriage to Robert de Mor¬ timer, from which family, by an heiress also, it passed to the Talbots, who posses¬ sed it till the time of Richard 2. Leland, who lived in the reign of Henry 8, says, “ Richards Castle standeth on the toppe of a very rocky hill; and at the w. end of the paroche church ther, the keep, the walles, and the towers of it stand, but going to mine: ther is a park impaled, and welle wooded, but no deer.” [Itin. v. iv. p. 178.] Edward 6 granted the manors of Richard's Castle, ice. to Nich¬ olas, bishop of Worcester, and his heirs. In the 15th century T. Bradshaw was pos¬ sessor, by a long lease from the bishop, and married the daughter of Arthur Sal¬ wey, esq., by whom he had an issue of 20 children. The grandson of this gen¬ tleman sold the lease of the manor to Richard Salwey, esq. in which family this estate still continues. Upon the de¬ clivity of the eminence contiguous to the castle, a body of loyalists amounting to nearly 2000 horse and foot, under the command of sir Thomas Lundesford, were surprised, in the year 1645, by a force far inferior, headed by colonel Birch, and dispersed with much slaughter. The interior of the castle is now a culti¬ vated field: some part of the keep and walls, however, still remain. The contiguous village was anciently called Gayton or Boytanc, but now bears the name of the castle. It was once a town of considerable importance till the time of Henry 2, when it began to decay. The Mortimers exerted themselves in it’s sup¬ port, procuring a charter for a market and fair from king John, but after the reign of Henry 3, it became neglected, and at present consists only of a few farm houses. The market and fair have long since been discontinued. A place near the castle is still called the “ Toll-shop- green.” “ Beneath this castle,” says Camden, “ Nature hath brought forth a pretty well, which is always lull of little fish-bones, or, as some think, of small frog-bones, altho’ they be from time to time drawn quite out of it, whence it is called Bone-well.” These bones are, how¬ ever, now rarely found, and that only in the spring. It has been imagined that frogs propagate in the clefts of the rock adjoining to this well, whence, descend¬ ing into the water, it’s coldness destroys them, and that, after the flesh has been wasted, the bones are brought out by the water. In the village of Richard’s Cas¬ tle is a Boarding-school for young ladies, conducted by Miss Hammans. Poriway lm. (on the 1. Orlelon,) Lustun, -2 ; m. 1 (on the 1. lm. Berrington, hon. Rodney Har¬ ley) Leominster, 2m. Another road to Leominster passes the front of Lndford-house ; and at the distance of 2m. occurs the village of Ashford, parted in two by the river Teme. Towards the w. is Ashford-house, the property of the late George Crawford Ricketts, esq. The building is large, the situation command¬ ing, and the plantations elegantly dispos¬ ed. To the n. of Ashford is an excel¬ lent mineral Spring called Saltmore Well; but so triflingly supported as to be mark¬ ed only by a mean small building. The neighbouring scenery is however of the most gratifying kind. The water is said to taste very much like that of Spa, but weaker and less sulphureous. At §m. to the r. is Ashford-court, the seat of Robert Pryce, esq. formerly belonging to the an¬ cient family of Yate Sprott, charmingly situated upon the banks of the Teme. Be- 153 LUDI ween the 6 th and 7th mile is situated the nanorof Orleton. [See 688 .] Thomas Mount, esq. who died Dec. 1679, was juried in Orleton church. Adam de Orle- on successively bishop of Hereford, Wor- •ester, and Winchester, in the reigns of idward 2 and 3, was native of this place. Four miles and a 5 on the road t o Wic- viore -occurs the residence of Thomas Ricketts, esq. at Elton. The valley in which it is situated is beautiful and rich, lounded by considerable eminences, well wooded and commanding agreeable pros¬ pects. The road to Bridgnorth quits that to Cleobury Mortimer after having pro- reeded nearly 2 m. leaving the Clee-hill an the r. Distant views of the Welsh- mountains, of Malvern in Worcestershire, and the Wrekin appear in succession, till a part of the range of the Cleehills be ob¬ tained, when objects on the e. begin to appear. At about the 5th mile is a large building placed in a very pleasing but naked situation called the Moor, the resi¬ dence of mrs. Walcott. A few m. further is the Brown Clee Hill, upon the summit of which, within the encampment, acoal- ipit is worked. On the road to Cleobury Mortimer, ' 2 m. on the r. occurs Henley Hall, a large brick building, the residence of Mrs. Knight. On the s. front extends a large well timbered park. There are consider¬ able walks and plantations near the house. The Ledwich brook forms in the grounds a pleasing course and fall. The village of llitterley, 2 m. contains little of note except a well established Boarding-school, for boys, under the superintendance of mr. T. Williams. Bitterley Church and Court, lm. The latter is the residence of the rev. John Walcot, charmingly situated upon rising ground at the foot of the Clee- hill, surrounded by some pleasure ground, finely slanting fields, and flourishing plan¬ tations : but the abrupt and flaring white¬ wash, which covers the house and con¬ tiguous churth, entirely destroys the har¬ mony of the picture. The Llee-hill, ris¬ ing on the e. side of Bitterley Court, is a grand and prominent object; upon the summit of which are the ruins of a roman encampment. It’s extreme point, called Titterstone, has been judged, by several travellers of distinction to bear a volcanic character. This part affords a very ex- ,OW. 854 tensive prospect to the north. The in¬ terior of this mountain produces an abun¬ dance of coal and iron-stone. Upon the s. side of the hill a furnace is erected for smelting iron ore, the work of which is performed by means of a small rivulet, and a water wheel 66 leet in diameter The price of coal at the pit is 13s per ton. At the distance of 3m upon another road to Cleobury Mortimer, at the scatter¬ ed village of Caynham, is the mansion of Caynham court, the occasional residence of the rev. William Calcott. It is a nedt building, situated in a very pleasing dis¬ trict, and surrounded by well disposed plantations, shrubberies, and walks. In front are fine undulating and wooded grounds, closed in by Mary’s-knoll and other hills. The Clee-hill, at a distance, forms a very fine back ground. Upon a conspicuous summit to the n. is the site of an ancient Castle, which has been noticed by Leland in the folio wing words. “Kains- ham or Kensham Castle, clene down, stood within two miles of Ludlo, on a hill top.” vii, 33. “ It belonged,” says Camden, “ to the Mortimers and the church to Wigmore Abbey.” Two fields on the e. side are still called, the Castle fields : and immediately below is another, in which a deep and wide intrcnchment occupies the principal part. The tradi¬ tionary accounts of old people say, that the latter was a depository for horses and military stores, during the seige of Lud¬ low Casile by Cromwell. Round the site of Caynham Castle is a vallum, the area of which, consisting of 6 or 7 acres, is of a roundish oblong figure, dipping into a hollow at each end and high in the mid¬ dle. The vallum or bank is covered with trees and underwood, through which the present worthy proprietor preserves a path, with benches: opposite to these are openings, commanding most delight¬ ful prospects, not only of the local beau¬ ties of the neighbourhood of Ludlow, but of the Malvern hills, the Black moun¬ tains in Brecknockshire, and other distant objects. On the road between Cayn¬ ham and Ashford is a Boarding-school lor young ladies, conducted in an able and respectable manner by miss Yeomans. The road to Knighton lies upon that to Shrewsbury for 3m. Pass over a hand¬ some stone bridge, across the Corve. At the distance of a mile turn to the 1 . leaving 855 LUDLOW. 855 the race-course, called Old Field, at a the reign of Charles 1, when it was twice short distance on the r. In the retrospect besieged by the king’s forces, and, at appears the town of Ludlow, with it’s length, burnt, and delapidated. The noble castle, and stately church. On ap- ruins consist chiefly of some fragments proaching the village of Bromfield, 2m. of walls, and an entrance gateway, flauk- 'if. [see col. 845.] observe on the 1. the ed by two round towers, occupying alow back part of the seat of lady dowager situation, about 100 yards n. from the Clive, at Oakley Park, on a well-wooded church. A curious chimney, rising like eminence above the river Teme. At a turret above the curtain, and a stair- Bromfield cross the Oney river, which case, are tolerably perfect, but the in¬ here falls into the Teme. Soon after pass- terior parts are quite destroyed. The ing the village, turn to the 1. Between church was greatly damaged during the the 5th and 6th miles, on the lower ground siege of the castle; the body of it was is Downton Castle, [col. 846.] At the ter- afterwards badly repaired; the lower is a mination of the 9th mile occurs the town pile of ruins. In the s. wall is an altar of Leinlwarcline, situated upon the banks tomb, green with moss, on which lies the of the Teme. This is a fashionable fishing mutilated effigies of a lady unknown. A- place, to which company resort from many bove this is a large marble tablet, in mem- distant parts. The fish is said to be very ory of Robert Harley, first earl of Oxford, abundant in the adjoining streams, par- Upon another plain tablet is recorded the ticularly trout and grayling. The town is name of Sarah, daughter of Thomas Foley, small, inelegant, and without pavement, esq. and wife of Edward Harley, esq. consisting principally of one long street; the earl’s younger brother. In a space but the premises at the principal inn, sta- called the “ Wilderness,” near the church tioned near the bridge, are detached, and castle, were some uncommonly clean, and charmingly situated. The large and flourishing trees. On the w. Church is large, and formerly much re- from the church is a respectable brick marked on account of it’s painted glass, mansion belonging to the Harleys; and many fine pieces of which yet remain, still further to the w. a Park, nearly 6m. Leintwardine is celebrated for a roman in circumference. Scarcely a mile to camp, of a square form, with a single the n. of Brampton Brian, is Coxwall-Knoll ditch and rampart. It still retains it’s an- Camp, commonly called Guer Ditches, cient british appellation, signifying a conjectured by most historians to have church, built upon a spot sacred to Diana, been the last post occupied by the brave Some think the roman Bravinium should Caractacus. It’s form approaches to the be placed at Brandon near Leintwardine, section of an ellipsis, and is undoubtedly where the roman street crosses the Teme, of british construction. About 3m. to the and where square entrenchments, in ap- e. upon the opposite side of the river pearance roman, still remain. Dr. Hors- Teme, is Brandon Camp, supposed to be ley is of opinion that Ludlow is the Bra- the Bravinium of the romans, and to have vinium, or Bravonium of Antonine, and been occupied by Publius Ostorius Scapu- that part of it’s ancient name remains in la, a.d.51. This is of a square form with that portion of the river Oney which runs a single ditch and rampart. [The Britons into the Teme, near Ludlow.—Green’s waited the attack of the enemy’s legions Survey of Worcester, p. 9. Horsley, p. in their advantageous position and fought 365. About the 12th mile is Brampton- like men who valued life no longer than Brian, an ancient lordship of the family as it was connected with freedom; but of Brian de Brampton, who resided here their courage availed nothing before the from about the time of Henry 1, but which skill and discipline of the roman army ; became extinct by intermarriages in the for after an immense slaughter, they were .reign of Edward 1, when Margaret, a co- compelled to give way, and Caractacus’s heiress, conveyed this estate in -marriage wife, daughter, and brothers, were taken to Robert de Harley ; whose descendant, prisoners. Our Silurian and Ordovicean jthc earl of Oxford, is still owner. The Chief, escaped, but was soon after betray- Castle, which was erected at an early ed into the hands of his enemies, and car- period, became the principal seat of the Tied prisoner to Rome, about the year Harleys, till the time of die civil wars, in 52, after having bravely defended his 557 LUDLOW. 858 country for 9 years. His noble speech ind deportment when brought before the Roman emperor, as transmitted to us by the pen of Tacitus, lib. 13, must ever excite admiration, and evince the immut- ible dignity of manly virtue. His speech s as follows. “ If the moderation of my nind in prosperity had been answerable ;o my quality and fortune, I might have tome into this city a friend, rather than a taptive, for beiDg royally descended, and >nce at the head of many nations, you, without dishonour, might have entered nto a league with me. My state at pres¬ ent is disgraceful, your’s honourable and Jorious. Horses had I, men, arms, and iches ! Can it appear strange that I have larted with them reluctantly ? Since, lowever, that you aim at universal power, ve, among others, must endure subjuga- ion. If I sooner had yielded, my fame lad been less eminent and your glory less :onspicuous. The grave would have oncealed me, and my memory had per- shed. If you suffer me now to live, 'ourclemency will live also, and be trans¬ mitted to posterity as an example for mitation.” The eloquence and digni- ied deportment of Carailoc, or Caractacus, o affected Claudius, that he ordered him o be liberated and permitted to return with his family to Britain, leaving his ather Bran as hostage. There is a nearer road to Knighton through Bur- ington. To Bishop’s Castle pursue the road as lescribed to Knighton, as far as Brom- icld 2m. 7f.; then proceed for about 2m. with the river Oney running at a little listance on the r. through well cultivated 'rounds to Wooton, 1m. M\, afterwards rross the river by a bridge, at the rural village of Oneybury Jm, to pursue it’s rourse on the 1. On the 1. is Stonehouse, he hon. mrs. Walpole; beyond which is Fern-hall, Hurt Sitwell, esq. Soon after lee Stake Say Castle, 2m. on the 1. situatc- 3 d among fields, between two consider- ible summits: that above the castle is well wooded. From it’s slender construc- :ion this castle seems to have been origin- Uly intended rather as a genteel residence , han a place of defence. Some parts of :he building are used as outhousing to the tontiguous farm house ; the rest is much ielapidated. A curious gate-house, con- itructed of wooden frame work, with carvings, leads to the door of a largo and lofty hall, which is at present desti¬ tute of any remains of a fire-place. The windows are in the pointed style. At the end of this part of the edifice is an octag¬ onal tower, with winding stairs. The Castle is moated round. It is the proper¬ ty of lord Craven, who has extensive es¬ tates in this part of the country. The farm around this place is of great extent, where some of the modern improvements in agriculture have been adopted. A threshing machine, put in motion by wa¬ ter, is an excellent appendage ; at which four men will thrash and clean out 100 bushels of wheat in 8 hours. The land in this neighbourhood is a good sandy loam, letting at an average of one guinea an acre. Passing the village of Newton ^m. an excellent inn, lately built at the expence of lord Craven, is stationed at two branches of the road ; that on the 1. leads to Bishop’s-Castle, the other to the r. to Shrewsbury. The Inn designated by the Craven-arms, is situated in a very delightful district, and affords a post- chaise and horses, with the best accom¬ modations, An obelisk at this place enumerates the distances of 48 different cities and towns. On the 1. to Clun, 8m. and Bishop’s Castle, 9m. (On the r. is the road to Shrewsbury, 23m. Half m. distant is Sibdon-Castle, J. Flemming Baxter, esq. On the right £m. Long- mile, and Abbey .) Passing through Bas- ford, on the 1. from the Craven-arms* reach the Red-house, l|m. here make an interesting deviation to the 1. through JValcot-Park, the delightful domain and principal residence of lord Clive, before he became heir to the Powis estates and received the title of the earl of Powis. Spreading woods and plantations clothe the adjacent hills ; the park is extensive, containing many hundreds of acres, charm¬ ingly diversified and stocked with deer. The mansion stands upon a moderate ele¬ vation, formed of brick, with stone cor¬ ners, and a doric portico in front. A fine sheet of water is seen to advantage on the r. in approaching the house. lm. on the r. of Red-house, is Plowdon hall, Edmund Plow'don, esq. and about lm. further on the high-road, to the r. is Tottertun , rev. John Bright Bctton Bright. To Shrewsbury pursue the forgoing road to Bishop’s-castle, as far as the Obo- 859 LUDLOW. MACIIYNLLAETH. 86C 8 lisk and Craven’s-arms Inn. Then the road to the r. to Grove, lm.,3f. Filhampton, 3Jm. Enter the romantic and narrow vale in which the village of Little Stretton, 2^m. and the Market town of Church Stret¬ ton, l^m. and All Stretton, lm. If. are embosomed. Leholwood, 2|m. (On the r. Lydlcy Iluyes, rev. John Witts,) lang¬ uor, lm. Dorington, ljin. (Beyond on the r. is Condover-house, late N. O. Smythe Owen, esq.) Pulley-common, 4m. On the 1. Lyth-Hill, and near it Lythwood, Chas. White, esq. Within lm. of Shrewsbury is a road to Bishop’s Castle, 18m. Shrews bury, 2|m. To Leominster, 10£ miles. — Bridgnorth, 19J miles, Lipscomb. — Wenlock, 20| miles. — Presteign, lfv{ miles. — Knighton, 17 miles. — Bishop’s Castle, 17 miles. — Shrewsbury, '29 miles. — Wigmore, 8 miles. From Dolgelly, 15 miles, Bingley. - Mallwyd, 12 miles, Aikin. _ Pont y Monach,20miles, Warner. _ Aberystwith, 25 miles. Warneis’ 2d walk. _ Aberystwith, 18 miles, VVyndham. _ Llanbadern Fawr, 16 miles; then to and from Towyn, 24 miles, Skrine. __Newtown, 28^ miles. MACHYNLLAETH, beautifully sit¬ uated upon the western edge of Mont¬ gomeryshire, at the conflux of the Dulas with the Dovey, is an ancient well-built town, of a moderate size, and superior to most in N. Wales in cleanliness and respectability. It lies in the hundred of the same name. The population of this parish, consisting of the townships of Is Carreg, Uwch Carrcg, and the Town, in 1801 was 1825. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this part of the country, where also some tanning busi¬ ness is carried on. The Market is on Wednesday. The Fairs are held on the first Wednesday in March, May 16, June 26, July 9, Aug. 7, Sep. 18, Nov. 26. The name of this town signifies, the place near the river Cynllaeth which was the ancient name ofDyfi or Dovey, in the val¬ ley of which it stands. It is the supposed Jtlaglona of the Romans, where, in the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was sta¬ tioned to awe the mountaineers. Near Penalt, about 2m. disiant is a place called Cefn Coer, or the ridge of the city, w here roman coins have frequently been found, and formerly the remains of a circular for¬ tification of considerable extent were visible. Upon the highest part of the hill was the main fort, built in a quad¬ rangular form, and encompassed with a strong wall, a foss, and vallum of an oval form, excepting the side towards the val¬ ley, where they extended in a direct line; On the outside of the ri’ver the founda¬ tions of many houses yet remain, and up¬ on a low mount there stood a small fort, supposed to consist of bricks, as several have been found on the spot. The out walls were, however, built of a rough hard stone, from Tal-y-garreg, distant 7m. From this site of the fort is a broad road of pebbles, and larger stones, continued in straight lines through meadows and marshy grounds, for 200 yards, to the wa¬ ter side ; the breadth is 12 yards. This fort is supposed to have been destroyed previous to the building of Penyr-allt church, as bricks are mixed with the stone of that building. Some silver coins of Augustus and Tiberius have been found near the main fort. In the town is an old building formed of the thin slaty stone of the country, to which Owen Glyn- dwr summoned the nobility and gentry of Wales in 1402. Among the number sir David Gam. attended, with the design of murdering Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and sir David seized. He would have suffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to confinement at Mach- ynllaeth, where he continued some time. At length Owen liberated him on condi¬ tion that he would remain quiet. But sir David was scarcely set at liberty ere he began to manifest a turbulent disposition ; which so much exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house, and ravaged his lands. David flew into England where he continued in confidence at the court of Henry 5. Davydd Gam was the cotem¬ porary and steady opponent of Owen Glyn¬ dwr, during his insurrection, lit the suc¬ ceeding part of the reign ol Henry 5, Gam, as a captain in the english army, attended that monarch in his French expedition; and acted a signal part in the celebrated battle of Agincourt. Having been to re¬ connoitre the enemy, on the evening pre¬ ceding the battle, he reported, that there 61 MACIlYNLLAETH. 862 vereenow to be killed, enow to be taken Frwd Fawr. The rock whence the water ■risoners, and enow to fly. However, falls is nearly perpendicular. In height luring the heat of the battle, and just as he first line of the French was routed, the :d line began to march up, in order to in- errupt the progress of the victory. Henry ierceiving this, alighted from his horse, nd shewed himself at the head of his nen, where he fought on loot, encour- ging some, and assisting others: but in n instant 18 French cavaliers, who were esolved to kill him or die in the attempt, ushed forth together, and, in advancing ne of them stunned him with a blow of is battle-ax. They then fell upon him a a body, when David Gam, and 2 other velshmen, came to his aid ; but being verpowered, they fell at his feet, after tilling 14 of the enemy. In gratitude for his signal instance of courage, the king tnighted them all in the field of battle, ho’ dying of their wounds ! Shakespeare las described Gam in the character of -aptain Fluelin. In the august assembly ailed Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr ex- :rted his first acts of royalty, being ac- tnowledged as the prince of Wales, and iroclaimed and crowned. This ancient enate-house is now degraded to the pur- ioses of a stable, and adjoins a butcher’s hop. A spacious door-way, however, winces that it’s occupation has been nore honourable. The Church is re- narkable only for the absurd custom of vhitewashing the outside of the wall. It s a rectory and vicarage united; the bp. if St. Asaph, patron ; dedicated to St. Pe¬ er. The Town-hall is a plain unadorn, d, good structure. Here is an endow- :d Free-school. The Unicorn Inn, near the centre of he town, has been found comfortable nd the charges reasonable- The Eagles s accounted the principal. The road tow ards Llanidloes, winds, or several miles, over dreary moors, kboutfim.from Machynllaeth is a lofty hill vhich continues on an ascent for nearly im. from the top of which is an ample I'icw of turfy mountains and dismal yastes. Plinlimmon is visible at the listance of 4 or 5m. on the r. The Viola utea grows on the road side for several niles. In the flat betwixt Plinlimmon nd the road is a small pool called Glos Jyn (the blue lake). About halfway to .lanidloes, l£m. to the r. is the cataract it is exceeded by few cataracts except Pis- tyll Rhaiadyr. The few shrubs hanging from the rocks add to it’s beauty. In pass¬ ing this way there are remarkable lead mines on the r. and 1. in sight of the road, which are said to abound with silver. Plinlimmon appears at a distance on the r. About 4m from Llanidloes, the ap¬ pearance of the country begins to change, and the woody vales in front, with the little Lhjn yr Afrange (beaver’s pool), at a distance among them, forms a pleasing scene. The descent within £m. of Llan¬ idloes is prepossessing and interesting, but an ungraceful large wooden bridge across the Severn, serves to break the chain of this inspiration. On the road to Aberystwith, keeping along the banks of the Dovey, which con¬ tinues the s. boundary of Merionethshire to it’s mouth, a pass through the chain of the Plinlimmon hills is entered, which is the only n-e. opening into the county of Cardigan. A little further, ascending a hill on the r. of the road, the tourist is pre¬ sented with a view, the richest, most varied, and striking, perhaps, that can be imagined. On the n. side appears the lofty mountainous part of Merioneth, run¬ ning out into the sea for some miles, bare upon the summit, and it’s highest peaks generally enveloped in light wreaths of mists, but cultivated towards the middle; and below, dark with woods, which half conceal 4 elegant villas. To the s. are beheld the gentle eminences and rich culture of Cardiganshire. In front is stretched the calm lake-likc expanse of the Dovey, contracted towards the sea by a rocky promontory covered with wood, advancing from Cardiganshire, and form¬ ing in it’s curve a beautiful bay. Immedi¬ ately below the lull, a little on the 1. is the trading villageof Curregystumlacth with sloops at it’s wharf. Under the Merioneth¬ shire mountains, at the distance of 4 or 5m. is the portof Aberdovey, and further, in the same direction, the broad expanse of the ocean. The village of Garreg, is next ar¬ rived at, formerly noted for it’s smelting works, which arc now disused; it how¬ ever partakes with Aberdovey in the ex¬ port trade of flannels, welsh-webs, bark, and other productions of the vale of Dovey. The tourist, quitting the river and pru. 863 MACHYNLLAETH. 86 ceedmg ?. catches here and there fine large cataracts: the woody and exaltei views of the sea. At Tal y bont the views are enlivened by cascades gushing from the rocks, and overhung with oaks, beeches, birches, and the mountain ash. Beyond this place the woods give way to pastures, corn-fields, and sheep-walks; and at length, descending into the vale of Rhydiul, presently is attained the sea-port of Aberystwith. The ruins of Edno- wain ap Bradwen’s house called Llys Bradwen, are to be seen in the township of Cregcnan. This chieftain was lord of Merionydd, and was in possession of all Tal y bont. except Nanney. He is said to have lived in GrufFudd ap Cynan’s time. The ruins of his house consist of large stones, which mark the form as well as the simplicity of the habitations of the ancient Reguli of Wales, agreeing with the account given of them by Whitaker, in his history of Manchester, who says “ they were commonly placed in the hollow of a valley, and either upon the margin of one stream, or the confluence of two, for the conveniency of water, and security from winds. And the followers lived im¬ mediately about the person of their chief, or in little bodies along the windings of the valley, to be within reach of the usual signals of the lord, the striking of the shield, or the blowing of the horn.” —Cam. Reg. i. 153. [see also col. 249.] The distances on this road are as follow. To Derwentlas, 2f m. Cross the Lysnant river to Garreg, 2 -§m. Eglwys fach, 1m. If. Pass Dovey Furnace , Cae mawr, Mill lodge, and Park gate, to Tre'rddbl, 3m. If. Pass Clyltwr, Tufarn fach and Troed rhiw redwen and Llangynvelyn, to Tal y bont, where there is an inn, l|m. Cross the Lery river to Rhydd y penne, 3m. Pass Pen y gam Capel to Bow-street, |m. On the 1. is Gogerthan, Pryse Pryse, esq. Pont rhydhir, across the river Clarach, by Torg- Iwyd, Cefn hendre, Penglais, North gate toll-bar, to Aberystwith, 35 m. On the road to Dolgelly, pass the Dovey, which separates Machynllaeth from Merioneddshire, over an ancient stone bridge at Ponty bont, lm. I)iflas Bridge, ■£m. Proceed with this river on the 1. through a truly alpine valley. Mr. Wynd- ham says of this scenery, “ The rapid tor¬ rent, roaring over a bed of broken rocks, and, not unfrequently, interrupted by im¬ mense fragments, from which it falls in precipices rising on each side of the river and the mountain brooks, which, dowi the deep and water-worn gullies, contin ually rattled about us, formed a miniatun picture of the romantic scenes, which ari found between Aignes Belles and Moun Cenis. Towards the extremity of the val ley, the huge mountain of Cader Idri presented one of it’s naked, craggy, am prominent cliffs, full to our front: few objects can be more awfully sublime. Tht road passes under part of this gloomy and tremendous precipice, within sigh, of the small lakeTalyllyn, at some distance on the 1. Llwyngwern, l§m. Cross the Glesyrch river to Esgairgeiliog, lm. Crost the Gomcelli river, at Fron Felin, lm. pas: with the Corus, on the 1. to Gian y groes lm., pass several houses on both sides o the road, to Minfordd, 2 m. where is a pub. lie house kept by Edward Jones, who of ficiates as a guide to Caoer Idris. Mr, Bingley has given a depreciating charac¬ ter of this house, [See col.' 245.] but it has improved much since the year 1801, when mr. Bingley travelled. Jones is moreovei very attentive and moderate in his charges Pass close to the brink of another small lake called Llyn trigrasenyn the Pool of the three Grains, from three immense stones lying near it, by the load side, l£m. We now crossed an arm of Cader Idris, and, following a rapid descent ol 2| rocky miles, arrived at Dolgelly. Part of this latter path leads through a thin oak wood; overhanging an impetuous torrent, which foams down a rugged declivity. Bwlch coch, being on the 1. and Caet Sam and Bylchecochion on the r. Mr. Pratt describes this road as follows. “ Af¬ ter riding about 2 hours you come to a spot so exquisitely delightful, that it is impossible for any one but the sordid worlding, not to pause, and wish to pass the evening of his days in it’s vicinity. It is a part of the valley defended by an im¬ mense screen of many coloured rocks be¬ hind, out of which spring here and there a few hardy shrubs and flowers; most stupendous crags, that hurricanes have thrown from a ridge of mountains, the mutilated heads of which are still in the clouds. Some of these crags have been stopped mid-way, others have found a passage to the bottom, and lie at the side of the road. To the i. is a broad stream 55 MACHYNLLAETH. MAENTWROG. 866 f water, here foaming into natural cas- ades, and there displaying an untroubled nd limpid bason. These natural cas- ades, and transparent baths, are so tinted iy the refractions of the light and shade, nd the variegated rocks, spars, shells, 4C., at the bottom, that the water and looring exhibit all the colours of the rain- ow. The foliage of the woody moun- lins which rise above these water-works f nature, is not less diversified than the (ream. Your eye also takes in the cele- rated Cader Idris.”—“Gleanings.” The road to Mallwyd lies all the way ear the course of the Dovey, presenting lany striking beauties of landscape The alley is inclosed by lofty mountains, ame of which, particularly the Arran, iein respect to height with the most lof- y in Wales. The road lies for several tiles between hedgerows, amid fertile teadows intermixed with corn fields. )ats and rye are the prevailing crops; uere is little wheat or barley. In ap- roaching the 6th m. the scenery in every irection is admirable. The side screens ircsent either verdant woods or downy tills, while the vista below comprehends l great variety of the most pleasing fea- ures. A little further catch a glimpse of >ne of the peaks of Cadar-Idris, through a treak between the mountains. Coming n sight of Mallwyd, the vale contracts o as to leave the direction of the road un- :ertain. On the way is Cemmaes, 7Jm. m the r. is Aberhiriaeth Hall, the resid- :nce of sir J. Dashwood King, bart. a .ituation even superior to his residence at kVest Wycombe, in Buckinghamshire. On the way to Towyn, towards the estuary of the Dovey, the road lies behind a range of rocks which borders the bay, affording little worth notice. At the dis- :ance of 5m. a flat salt-marsh appears, to which succeeds a sandy plain of consid¬ erable extent, where grows plentifully the Convolvolus soldanella, and Elymus arenaria. A ferry of a, £m. lands the :raveller near Aberdovey in Merioneth¬ shire. The prospect up the vale, tho’ pos¬ sessing very little beauty, when compared to the prospect from the head of the estua¬ ry, is yet highly striking. The scream of the sea-gulls along this naked shore, harmonizes well with the gloomy gran¬ deur of the scene. On the sand are sever- 4 hillocks extending n, formed by the 29 Arundo arenaria, which fixes, by it’s long roots, the driving sand. That rare plant the Pulmonaria trraritima, here and there adorns the beach. An easy bend of the coast introduces a considerable peat-moss, reaching into the sea. Just above the high water mark are several marsh pools, abounding with the Nymph* alba. On the great road, cross the Dovey river, which runs on the 1. to the sea. Penalt, 4m. (About £m. beyond, on thel. is Tal¬ garth, Lewis Edwards, esq. and nearTow- yn, 65 m. from Penalt, on the r. is Bocl- lalog, Edward Scott, esq. To Llanidloes, 16 miles, Bingley. — Aberystwith, 28 miles, Aikin. — Cader-ldris, about 13 miles, Warner. — Mallwyd, 13 miles, Warner’s 2d walk. — Dolgelly, 14 miles, Wyndham. — Dolgelly, round Tallyllyn, 18 miles. — Towyn, 11 miles; back to Machynllaelh, 12 miles; thence to Dinasmouddu, 13 miles, Skrine. — Plinlimmon, about 5 miles. — Montgomery, 37§ miles. From Tan-y-bwlch, J mile, Wyndham; Evans; Bingley; Skrine. - Llanilltidd, 11 miles, Aikin; Skrine. - Dolgelly, 17^ miles, Warner. - Harlech, 9 miles, Pennant. - Llanrwst, 21| miles. MAENTWROG, is a small village in the hundred of Ardudwy, Merioneth¬ shire, whicli derives it’s name from a large stone in the church-yard, called Maentwrog, the stone of Twrog, a british saint, who lived about the year 610. In 1801 the population of the parish of Maen¬ twrog, was 593. The roman road from Uriconium to Segontium passed through this parish. Mr. Owen says that Edmund Prys, one of the most eminent of the poets of his time, was rector of this parish, and archdeacon of Meirion. He translated the metrical psalms used in the welsh church¬ es, and he assissted bp. Morgan in trans¬ lating the Bible. He was born about 1544, at Gerddi Bluog, in the parish of Llan teeveyn, and resided at Tyddyn du. He died some time after 1623, and was buried in Maentwrog church. At this place is a comfortable inn. Nothing can exceed the beauty of this little vale. The hills are moderately high, and scattered in a pleasing style; the sides are mostly well wooded, especially to the n. In one of these groves stands Tan y Ilwlch Hall, 867 MAENTWROG. 868 the seat of the late William Oakley, esq., top of the upper fall by the winding of who availed himself of the munificence the rocks, was not visible from below, of nature, in exhibiting her in walks and The rock which hangs immediately over vistas of considerable extent. [SccTany- the fall, was, from it’s great height and bwlch.J The site of the house commands rude form, a fine object in the landscape, a view of the meandering Dwyryd widen- and the whole of the hollow, for some dis¬ ing into the estuarv, called the Treath tance below the cataract, extremely grand. Bychan or Little Tide, which lies oppos- I attempted to climb to the upperpart, but ite to the Treath Mawr on the s., exhib- the rocks were too perpendicular and iting the ocean; which, with the penin- slippery to attempt it without danger; sula, forms a pleasing termination to the therefore contenting myself with seeing view. Mr. Oakley engaged with success as much as I could from below, I crossed in reclaiming a tract of land from the over- the water, and crept along the shelving flowings of the Tide. His embankments rocks, by the side of the stream, for near- are marked by white rails. The Traeth ly ^m. Here the banks closed in over my abounds with the Nymphae alba, and in head, leaving but a narrow chasm, from the tide ditches is the Ruppia maritima. which the light was excluded by the dark Upon the bosom of the wave appears the foliage from each side, and I found myself Conferva vagabunda. In pursuing the entering to appearance into the mouth of a stream, which divides this vale, it’s deep and horrid cavern. The sides were length is 4m. It’s sides are edged with too steep for me to think of clambering thick groves, and barren precipices close up, and except going quite back again to the enchanting scene. The little river the cataract, I had no alternative but to is named Dwyryd, or the Two Fords, penetrate the place. The darkness did from the Cynfael and another stream unit- not extend far ; and finding it's banks suf- ing their waters above. The Cynfael turn- ficiently slanting to admit of my ascending bles through a deep rocky chasm, covered to the meadows above, 1 was not a little with large trees, the collateral branches pleased to escape from this abode of damp of which meet, forming a dark shade, and and horror.” The Hypericum androsse- thence by three falls descends foaming mum grows among the rocks at this cat- into a deep pool, encircled by bold im- aract. On regaining the road to Hae- pending rocks. In the midst of the tor- lech the tourist is led along the side of rent rises a columnar rock, termed PutjAt Llyntecwyn Ucha, (the upper pool of the Hugh Llwyd Cynfael. Hugh lived in the Tecwyn). This sheet of water is large time of James the first, and was esteem- and beautifully clear. The Nymphs ed a magician, and to have delivered his alba grows in this pool. On one side of incantations from this station. [See Festi- it is a range of low rocks, composed of a niog.] The small remains of Mur Cas- shivery kind of slate, which has moulder- tell, now called Tummen y Mur, where ed in many places to the bottom in small the Kings of England used to encamp sharp pieces, somewhat resembling nee- when they came against North Wales, is dies. Passing the inconsiderable vil- in this parish. Mr, John Lloyd of Cepn- lage of Llantecwyn, and Llyntecwyn isa, faes, Maentwrog, has made considerable (the lower Tecwyn pool), about 3m. dis- researches into the history of Wales, tant from Harlech is a charming little and has materials formed for accomplish- meadowy vale, which forms a pleasing ing a history of former times, relief to the rude scenery just passed. The On theroad to Harlech, atthe distance road from Maentwrog and Tany-bwlch, of about [m. immediately after crossing a to Harlech, is scarcely passable for car- small bridge, is a foot path, up a wooded riages, but there is one from Beddgellart, valley on the r. which leads l§m. to a along the sands, which may be passed at waterfall called Rhaiadyr du, (the black low water, with a guide. Distances, cataract). “Thespot,” says mr. Bingley, Rhaiadyr du, lm. Llyn tecwyn ucha, 3m. “is surrounded with dark and impending Llan Tecwyn, lm. Llyn Tecwyn isa, £m. scenery, and the water is thrown with Pont y Crudd, l^m. Harlech, 3m. vast impetuosity over 3 black smooth The road to the celebrated Pont Absr- rocks, each in a different direction. Of claslyn, lies on the way to Beddcelart, it’s height I could form no idea, as the distant 7m. up a steep hill, and proceed- 869 MAENTWROG, ing, mountain appears above mountain to the clouds; but the retrospect is pleasing. The verdant hills and luxuriant woods ; the church and pretty village of Maen- twrog, the diminishing vale, and it’s fer¬ tile meads and winding river, form a strik¬ ing contrast to the rude and stupendous scenery in front. “The mountains,” says mr. Evans, “ almost bare, consist of huge projecting rocks; fragments lying in undigested heaps, and crumbling strata; and the whole surface destitute of any¬ thing like vegetation, (save the Lichen calcobeum, here and there changing the colour of the rock) exhibiting the wildest confusion. Except the wooded summits on the 1. nothing can exceed the dreary aspect and awful desolation of the next 4m. of this road. No vestage of a dwel¬ ling. It appears like a country shaken by internal convulsions, from which veget¬ able, as well as animated nature, had fled. It seemed matter incapable of form of usefulness ; left in it’s elemental state ; dismissed by Nature from her care, and disinherited of her favours ; even as Bur- ' net says of Caernarvonshire, “ The frag¬ ment of a demolished world.” What is not naked is covered with heath and ling, with here and there a stream gushing from the fissures of the rocks. “ Ascending still higher,” says mr. Evans, “we gain¬ ed the summit of Moel IVyn yr Hydd; leaving the more lofty one of Moel wyn Gxuyn on our r. Here the lengthened gloom was relieved by the surrounding views; and the eye was diverted by the distant scenery. Before us the dark naked rocks of Snowdon ; behind us it’s rival Cader Idris; to the w. the Dwyryd, open¬ ing in the Traeth Mawr to the bay; the Irish Sea, Barmouth, Harlech Castle, and the extensive peninsula of Penmorfa, stretching out to sea, visible to it’s point at Aberdaron. On a boggy plain we found the beautiful Osmunda regalis, and the air was highly perfumed with the odoriferous buds of the Myrica gale. De¬ scending a gullied road, we came sudden¬ ly upon Pont Aberglasly n.” To Beddgebrt, 8j miles, Tany-bwlch-inn, I mile; Pont Abcrglaslyn, 6 j miles; lieddgel- art, 2 miles. — Harlech, 9 miles, Bingley ; Skrine. — Harlech by way of Itbaiadyr du, 12 miles, Wyndham. — Tan y bwlcb, 1 mile, Pennant; Aikin ; War¬ ner. MALLWYD. S70 To Pont-Abergbslyn, miles, Evans- — Bala, 20 miles. From Baia, 24 miles, Aikin. -Cann-office, 11 miles, Evans. - Machynllaeth, 13 miles, Warner. - Dinas Mowddwy, 1^ miles, Pennant; Skrine. -Newtown, 29 miles. - Llanilltyd, 15^ miles, Pennant. MALLWYD, is a small village placed between the salient angles of three abrupt mountains, Arran, Comlin, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley surrounded by many de¬ lightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi or Dovey. The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd are particularly worth examining. The rev. J. Evans thus describes this spot. “ The scenery, which ever way the eye turns, is prodigiously romantic. The mountains form a grand natural Amphitheatre, with sylvan sides; through which peeps here and there, a white-washed cottage, sufficient to re¬ mind us, that we are yet in an inhabited country. Camlin rising immediately, with rude majesty, on our r. and the conical Aran, lifting it’s resplendent head, with the different cwms, were reflected in various tint and shade in the waters of the Dovey. Through the opening of the mountains, the diminished scenery of the distant vale, appears in camera obscura in front. Opposite, the beautiful cascade formed by the Dovey, at Pont Fallwyd is peculiarly fine. The river impatient to rush through a narrow rocky channel, foams against a high slate rock in the cen¬ tre of the bed, dashes into the pool beneath and hastens, in hoarse meanders, to meet the estuary of the Dovey. Just above is a lofty mountain bridge of a single arch, grey with lichens, on one side ornament¬ ed with ivy, while the steep and rough banks are feathered with thick under¬ wood to the water’s edge. The Church is a humble gothic structure, remarkable for the situation of it’s altar in the middle of it, which dr. Davies, author of a dic¬ tionary, then incumbent, in defiance of the orders of the archbishop Laud, re¬ moved from the t. end. It has a boarded tower bearing date 1640, and inscribed soli Dio sacrum. The yard is remark¬ able for several large yew-trees, one of w hich, far superior to the rest, rises from the ground with a single stem, but at the 871 MALLWYD. 872 height of between 3 and 4 feet divides cottage. I was struck with the situatiort into 6 large branches.. The girth of the of one, in a cliff, between 2 mountains j trunk, a yard in height, is 22 feet 6 inch- it was screened from all weathers but a es. The average radius of the branches southern sun. On entering it, Iwassur- which spread on every side is 39 feet, prised to find it inhabited by 13 human forming a circumference of about 240 feet, beings, all in petticoats; I never beheld Of the (5 stems 4 spread laterally and 2 s0 much robust health in so small a corn- rise nearly perpendicular. The height pass, nor an assembly of any number from the root to the summit is about 40 which produced so many rosy cheeks, feet. No part of the tree exhibits any fine skins, and regular features. If I was symptoms of decay. That at Aldworth in not received with compliments, I was re- Berkshire tho’ it’s trunk be 9 yards in ceived with something preferable good circumference, is not comparable to this nature. Not being sufficiently learned in health and beauty. to enable us to talk to each other, we Here is a good Inn with post-chaises, were obliged to converse by signs. They In the autumn of 1807, the compiler hav- immediately brought out the best of their ing walked from Newtown, was much in- provisions, bread and milk. Their house, dined to stop for the night, and expressed which was composed of a few rough such a disposition; to which the hospi- stones, jostled together without architec- table mrs. Lloyd raised no objection. But, tural order, consisted of 3 low rooms: unfortunately, the approach of a carriage one for the day, in which a small bit of and an equipage of servants, dogs, Sec., turf was burning; one for the night, which entirely disconcerted the little plan of held their whole stock of beds, and one comfort which he had formed. Mrs. for lumber, chiefly utensils for husbandry, Lloyd put off the graces of complaisance to a ll which they took some pleasure in assume the demeanour of distance and re- shewing. The floors of all the rooms fusal. She began to urge that the day was were native earth, and nearly deprived of fine, the roads good, and that very clean light. I learnt that 3 generations stood and decent accommodations for travellers, before me, and tho’all in petticoats, 2 or without horses, might be had at a little pub- 3 of the children were males. A fresh lie house, kept by a widow woman, about an d handsome elderly person was grand- lra. beyond Dinas Mowtdwy. He took mother, 3 were her daughters, a fourth mrs. Lloyd’s gentle hint, without a com- her son’s wife, and 8 were her children ment, paid for his glass of shrub and wa- an d grandchildren. They weie all with* ter, and proceeded immediately onward, out shoes and stockings, except the ruddy He passed the cleanly widow’s cottage, senior and her daughter-in-law ; their two which truly answered mrs. Lloyd's des- husbands were employed in the fields, cription. The compiler, however, find- The covering of the 13, tho whole and ing himself in excellent strength and clean, was supported at a small expense, spirits, extended his walk to Dolcelly, They rented, I found afarmot 100 acres where, at the Angel Inn, kept by R. at 40L a year. An observer would be Oliver, he found other travellers, ohlig- tempted to conclude that this family were ing treatment, a good bed, and very mod- without care, did he not know that in CT'dtQ charges. this state of being there is no exemption. Mr. Warner, when at Mallwyd, ascend- I left this race of beauties with a smile on ed the mountain Camlin, in order to con- eac b face, that smile which constitutes template the setting sun. The effort, he the fascinating part of female charms, with says, was laborious, but he was more which woman should never part, than repaid by the glorious scene which On the road to Machyhllaeth, fol- opened on reaching the summit. The lowing the course of the Dovey all the Arran rose 2 or 3m. to the n.; behind, way, the Merionethshire border is quitted the whole vale of the Dovey, with it’s an d that of Montgomery entered upon, river, villages, &c.; and on each hand An obvious difference between the two was “ a tempestuous sea of mountains.” counties is apparent in the face of the coun- Mr. Hutton says, in his “Remarks on try and population. The vale widens, tho N. Wales,” in my peregrinations about mountains are greener and less lofty. The this neighbourhood I frequently entered a pastures are intermixed with corn-fields 173 MALLWYD. he houses more numerous. The sound if the loom begins to be heard; tenter- ;rounds are seen; and fulling-mills are ilanted upon the brooks and rivers. To Dolcelly, pass a steep bridge over he Clefion river. Half a mile further is r fine terrace view of this stream Cross- ng the Dovey over an excellent stone rridge, reach Dinas Mowddy, and wind- ng round the bases of the mountains on he 1. and descending a high hill leading oDolgelly, a full view, under a bright un, may be had of Cadet Idris. The own of Dolgelly from this declivity in the nidst of a valley composed of meadows, pvatcr, bridges, and surrounded with rocks, woods, and mountains, has an agreeable effect. On this route the river gradually liminishcs, till at the distance of Tm. it’s ountain-head, on an elevated swamp isar- ■ived at; not many yards beyond which, is the source of another river. The first is the Dovey, which terminates at Aber- dovy. The second flows into the Onyon, and reaches the sea at Barmouth. On the road to Bala, an excursion may be made up the vale of the Mowddwy, on the banks of the Dovey. This valley, 'Tm. in length, is in some places, so nar- Tow, as scarcely to admit a meadow be¬ tween the river and the base of the moun¬ tains which form it. These appear in some places almost perpendicular, and in others in such verdant slopes as to supply numer¬ ous flocks with pasturage. The highest parts of their sides abound with brown heath; and on their summits are numerous turbaries They bring the dried peat down the mountain sides, upon sledges, in a manner both laborious and dangerous. The mountains opening on the 1. exhibit a grand view of the irregular summit of A ran Moivddwy, which rises above tire other mountains. A little farther up the vale occurs the small village of Llan y Mou-ddviy, having a church dedicated to Tydecho, an uncanonizcd saint. The cot¬ tages at this place and the neighbourhood are exceedingly rude. Pursuing the course of the river, the tourist arrives at the cele¬ brated pass of Bwlch y Groes, or the road of the cross; so called from a cross which formerly stood on the summit of this pass. The face of the country here puts on a terrific appearance, as if warning the trav¬ eller to proceed no farther. A long range o'fvery high mountains, running nearly e. MALVERN. 874 and w., and rising one above the other in tremendous grandeur, divide the counties of Merioneth and Montgomery: a deep ravine through these forms the pass. It is a zig-zag stair-case road upon shivering slate stones. An excellent road is how¬ ever forming along the w. side of the mountain, at a vast expense, in order to make a communication between the n. and s less difficult and perfectly safe. The Rubus idseus and Saxifraga nivalis flourish in this district. On the n. side of this chain of mountains on the banks of the Llyn Tegid, in the parish of Llan y Cil, lies the small town of Bala. —J. Evans. To Dinas Mowddwy, mr. Warner passed the Clejian by the single arched bridge along it’s margin, for 2m. which he mentions as being truly alpine. On the highroad, is Tavernnwydd, lm. Cross the river Dovey to Minllin, ^m. Dinas Mowddwy, Jm. To Machynllaeth, 13 miles, Aikin. — Dinas Mowddwy, miles,and back. Thence to Dolgelly, 12 miles, Hutton. — Bala, 16 miles, Evans — Dinas Mowddwy, 1J miles, Warner. — Cann-Office, 11 miles, Skrine. Returned to Dinas Mowddwy, Pennant. To Welsh Pool, 27 miles. From Worcester, 8 miles, Lipscomb. MALVERN is a village, in the hundred of Pershorc, Worcestershire, containing 163 houses, and 819 inhabitants. The hills, at the foot of one of which this place is situated, are the most prominent and striking objects, and therefore demand our first notice. The air on these summits is accounted very salubrious, so as not to be less restorative to health than the Wells. The extensive and lofty range of the Mai - tern Hills, lies in the 3 counties of Wor¬ cester, Glocester, and Hereford, but prin¬ cipally in the s-w. part of the first, extend¬ ing nearly in a straight line from n. to s.; their greatest breadth from e. to w. not exceeding 2m. The several parts of the chain present rounded summits, near¬ ly covered from one end to the other with luxuriant vegetation. When viewed at a distance from the e. side a gradual rise from s. to n. is perceptible, 3 hills stand¬ ing above the general outline. The high¬ est of these is called the Herefordshire Beacon. Upon the Summit of this hill are 875 MALVERN. 876 the remains of a camp, with a treble vated parts of these mountains being dif- ditch. The two other prominent hills are ficult of cultivation are not enclosed, pro. situated nearly close together at the n. extremity; that which is farthest s. is called the Worcestershire Beacon, the other North Hilt. Upon the e. side, the hills rise at a considerable angle, from a level plain stretching to the banks of the river Severn, distant 3 or 4m. Upon the w. side the ascent is more gradual. There is a very extensive and beautiful view from the top of the Malvern Hills; on one hand is the widely extended plain of Worcester¬ shire stretching for many miles to the e. the level of which is interrupted by small wooded eminences ; on the other hand a succession of rising ground is terminated by distant welsh mountains. The e. side does not.present the same continued slope that extends on the w. but is much broken by narrow v allies or water.courses. There are besides vallies of considerable extent; 2 are at the n. extremity, one of them sepa¬ rating the Worcestershire beacon from the Nor-th-hill, the other dividing this last from the End-hill. Where the Hereford- shire-Beacon falls back to the w., occurs a wide and thickly wooded valley, in the bottom of which is situated the retired village of Malvern. These vallies run from e. to w.and not parallel to the chain. The height of the Herefordshire Beacon, a- bove the level of the sea, according to the “Ordinance Survey,” is 1444 feet; the Worcestershire Beacon by the means of 3 observations made by mr. Horner, at the n-e. extremity of the common called the i Links, with sir Henry Englefield’s portable barometer, 1238 feet; the North-hill, by two observations, 1151. Felspar, horn¬ blende, quartz, and mica, forming differ¬ ent compound rocks, and varying as much in the size as in the proportions of the in¬ gredients, constitute the greater part of the range. The most remarkable of these productions is a large mass of ore, lying upon the summit of the hill, about Ira. to the s. of the village of Great Mal¬ vern, found to be a kind of mica, not fusi¬ ble by any known process. Among this ore has been found that curious produc¬ tion the abestus or amianthus; and on a- notherpart of the hills a quantity of spar formed in hexagonal chrystalline figures. It is probable that in the bowels of the hill are some valuable metalic substances. The w. declivity contains a bed of lime¬ stone, abounding with fossils.' The de¬ ducing gorse and fern, with some herbage. The distant views consist of the three cathedrals of Worcester, Glocester, and Hereford, with various intervening towns. The genteel village of Great Malvern, where the principal part of the company reside who visit thi place for the sake of amusement or the benefit of their health, is charmingly situated upon the e. declivity of the hill, interspersed with gardens, orch¬ ards, and plantations. Most of the build¬ ings are neat, and except a few belonging to persons of fortune are either wholly or in part let to visitors during the season. The principal spring called Holy-well rises up¬ on the e. side of the hill, about 2m. distant, on the r. of the road to Little Malvern. Ac¬ cording to the late doctor Wall of Worces. ter, “ the water of this spring does not con¬ tain any uncombincd vitriolic acid, nor any volatile alcali, nor any metalic salt, but is slightly impregnated with fixed air, some common air, some selenites, and some unneutralized calcareous earth. Hence it is obvious that the principal vir¬ tues of this water must be ascribed to it’s extreme purity, assisted by the fixed air which it contains.”—See dr. Martin Wall’s edition of his father’s tract on these wa¬ ters. The late dr. Johnstone of Worcester could not find that this water contained any fixed air, but he had found it beneficial in scrophulous cases, cutaneous eruptions, and nephritic complaints. The temper¬ ate warmth of the air, and the great pu¬ rity of the water iuduced him to consider Malvern a place peculiarly favourable to those afflicted with nervous disorders, or inclined to consumption, especially in the summer and autumnal months. In can¬ cerous complaints, old ulcers, glandular obstructions, and other complaints, drink¬ ing, lotion, and bathing must be used ac¬ cording to circumstances. Early rising, exercise on foot or horseback, with tem¬ perance, must be combined with the use of the water. The source of this well is secured by a building which contains a bath and other accommodations. At a short distance is a large and commodious Lodging-House, where it’s inmates dine at a public table, and live sociably to¬ gether. In bad weather a billiard-room serves to amuse those who care not for books. Such however is the romantic situation of the place, and the beauty of 878 877 MALVERN. the scenery, (charms to which all habits, characters, and dispositions are awake) that strangers, who have the use of their eyes, will not soon feel any inclination to be dull. Company indeed do not often stay long in this place, but there is a con¬ stant succession from Cheltenham and other parts during the summer-season. In May, when the fruit-trees are in blossom, no spot can be more charming or inviting. Near this Hotel or Well-house, (as it is sometimes called) are several delightful walks, which by winding ascents lead to the summit of the hill. The Crown Hotel at Great Malvern, is well calculated for the reception of company. It stands near the centre of the village, and com¬ mands varied and extensive prospects. Great Malvern was once celebrated for it’s Monastery, founded about the year 1083, but few vestiges of it now remain, except the Church, which was purchased by the inhabitants, and became parochial. This is still a magnificent structure, being 171 feet long by 63 broad, with an embattled tower in the middle and pinnacles rising to the height of 124 feet. The painted l glass represents many scenes from scrip¬ ture history, -which time and accident have mutilated. The pavement of several parts of the choir is tesselated, and con¬ tains the coats of arms of many ancient families. The tombs and monumental inscriptions are numerous. That on Wat¬ cher, the 2d prior of Malvern, is dated 1135. About £m. above the church is St. Anne’s Well, of qualities the same as Holy-well, yet less used. The ascent to it is by a zig-zag foot-path. In the meadows below the village is a chalybeate spring, once highly famed, but now great¬ ly neglected. LITTLE MALVERN forms a separate parish The village was once consider¬ able, but now contains only 5 or 6 houses. It lies at the distance of 3m. from Great Malvern, in a recumbent slope near the entrance of a large recess in the hill, At this place there was once likewise a Mon¬ astery founded about the year 1171. Pre¬ vious to the conquest, the surrounding country was a wilderness, thickly set wilh trees, to which some hermits retired ; and their number increasing, they agreed to assume the monastic habit, and to live according to the order of St. Benedict. From this circumstance arose the convents of both great and little Malvern. The Church of the latter, which is now ruin¬ ous, was rebuilt in 1482, by John Alcock, bishop of Worcester, and had windows of painted glass of which little now remains. Near the Church is an antique building upon the site of the ancient monastery. The situation is remarkably romantic and sequestered. This little parish is alto¬ gether a retired and romantic spot, lying upon the e. side of the hill and running up to it’s summit, where is a Camp with a treble ditch. Some have imagined it roman because of the praetorium, or cent¬ ral part, but it’s shape contradicts this o- pinion. Within the distance of a musket shot of the trenches of the camp in the parish of Colwall, in Herefordshire, was found in the year 1650, by Thomas Tay¬ lor near Burstner’s-cross, as he was dig¬ ging a ditch round his cottage, a coronet or bracelet of gold, set with precious stones. It was sold to a Hill of Glocester for 371. Hill sold it to a jeweller in Lom¬ bard-street, London, for 2501. He sold the stones for 15001. About l§m. further to the s. on a protuberance of the hill, are the remains of another camp, consisting of a single ditch; and on the declivity of the Herefordshire Beacon is a cave cut in the rock, about 10 feet long, 6 broad, and 7 high, of rude workmanship, and un¬ known origin. The country on the w. side of the Malvern-hills, is thickly stud¬ ded with plantations of the apple and pear- trees. On the e. or Worcestershire side was a large tract, lately enclosed, which constituted the ancient Malvern chase, formerly stocked with deer, and belong¬ ing to the crown. Edward 1 gave it to Gil¬ bert de Clare, earl of Gloucester, between whom and the bishop of Hereford, a dis¬ pute arose respecting the w. boundary. To mark this boundary a deep ditch was drawn along the ridge of the hill, which is still in many parts entire. There are several delightful rides about the Malvern- Hills. At the distance of 2m. is a public road over the hill, cut through the Wytch. The late sir Hildebrand Jacob, bart. made a road to take carriages round the s. part. It is impossible to find a ride which pre¬ sents more picturesque views. Hopton End, the scat of sir Henry Tem¬ pest bart. lies 3m. n. of G. Malvern. It is a spacious mansion and the grounds well vyooded and diversified. From 879 MALVERN. MANORBEER. 880 Bernerd’s-grcen Lodge, the villa of — Brydges, esq. lm. s-e. from G. Malvern, upon an elevation of 500 feet above the plain is a fine view of the camp already mentioned. At Eastnor, on the w. side of Malvern, 4m. from the wells, is Castle- ditch, the seat of lord Somers, an ancient building with many modern additions. It is placed obscurely, yet possesses many beauties within it’s appendant domains. Near the s. extremity of the Malvern- Hills is Bromslerow-Place, a handsome building with pleasing accompaniments. Blachmore Park, '2m. n-e. from the wells is a modern and elegant structure. Madresjield, 3m. n. of Malvern, the seat of the Lygon family, is an ancient but neat building, commanding fine views of the hills. Crome-Court and Park, the splendid seat of the earl of Coventry, lies 9m. e. of Malvern, near the road from Worcester to Tewkesbury. To Ledbury, 8 miles, Lipscomb. — Cheltenham, 22 miles. From Tenby, 5 miles, Barber; Skrine. - Pembroke, 8 miles, Donovan. MANORBEER, or MAENOR BYRR, i. e., the Manor of the Lords, or the Man¬ sion or Manor of Byrr, is a small village, wildly situated on the seacoast, between Tenby and Pembroke, in the hundred of Castle Martin, Pembrokeshire. The Cas¬ tle, or castellated mansion, as described by Leland, stands “ between two little hiil- ettes,” the rocky bases of which repel the fury of an angry sea. It is a large irregular building, once the property of the Barri family, surrounded by a high embattled wall, having no windows outwardly, but here and there an eyelet aperture for ob¬ servation or the discharge of some missile weapon; all the windows from the habita¬ ble part,open into an inner court. The prin¬ cipal entrance was through a very noble gateway, protected by an extensive and almost semicircular court, having a large barbican, strongly walled and flanked with bastions. The ponderous towers and massive fragments of this castle de¬ note it’s original strength and importance to have been considerable; yet now, de¬ prived of “ the pride, pomp, and circum¬ stance of glorious war 1” it exhibits a scene so wild and desolate as might dis¬ claim all intercourse with man. Giraldvj, Silvester, commonly surnamed Cambrensu, the celebrated historian of Wales, was born at Manorbeer Castle, in the 12th century. He visited Jerusalem ; survey¬ ed Ireland; and travelled through most parts of England and Wales, as the secre¬ tary and adviser of Archbishop Baldwyn, and wrote descriptions of each country. He obtained the archdeaconry of Brecon ; was preferred to the Irish mitre; and, late in life, translated to the episcopal chair of St. David, where he died, and was buried in the cathedral in the year 1215. On entering the vale from the Ridge¬ way, there is a cluster of old walls, perhaps the ruins of the principal lodge, leading through the park to the castle. Across another small dingle, upon a high slope fronting the s. side of the castle, stands the Church, consisting of a tower, chan¬ cel, and nave, divided by one row of rude pillars. On the n. side of the chancel under a plain canopy is a tomb bearing an effigy of a crusader in ring armour, with a mixture of plate. His shield is charged with the Barri arms. On the s. side are the remains of a chantry or collegiate building. A little to the n-e. of the castle is the village of Manorbeer consisting of a few inhabited cottages, and a great num¬ ber in ruins. The court of the manors of Manorbeer and Penaley was held at a place called lx>ngstone. The Church is 1 dedicated to St. James, and is a discharged ] vicarage. It contains a sepulchral effigy of Giraldus, in good preservation. In 1801 the population of this parish was 451. Mr. Barber and his companion, being directed by some country people, struck off into a bridle road for Care w, but soon found themselves at a loss which to choose of 3 roads which presented themselves; were obliged to advance at hazard; and, after a long ride, on meeting with a cot¬ tager, were advised to return and take a different route. They again were uncer¬ tain what course to pursue, took a wrong direction, and were enveloped in dark¬ ness, in a road which scarcely bore the distinctness of a track. They however siowly paced on, till a glimmering light appeared between the trees, which they gladly traced to a lonely cottage. They were here accommodated with bread, butter, &e. and some barley for their 881 MANORBEER worses. They were told that Carew con¬ tained 2 inns, but on reaching it there was no stabling for their horses, and but one spare bed. Yet reduced by necessity, there to remain, their weary horses were turned into a field, and the keen appetites of the tourists had nothing better on which to regale than hard barley bread and salt butter, with nauseating ale. Vexed with accumulated plagues, our adventurers threw themselves, half undressed, upon a wretched bed ; but sleep was denied ; the sheets were damp, the fleas abundant, and the rats noisy. From this specimen Df rustic accommodation, they afterwards made a rule to finish their day’s journey at a good town. The distant opening view of Tenby, which appears from vari¬ ous elevations on the road, is striking. It rises boldly upon the brow of an aspiring headland, hemmed in by marshes, partly surrounded by the sea. From Manorbeer Castle to Pembroke, mr. Skrine ascended a ridge, and for many miles pursued a grand terrace upon it’s summit, from which the greatest part of Pembrokeshire was spread like a map be¬ low. Cultivation here smiled in all her glory ; and the inhabitants, many of whom were originally transplanted from Flan¬ ders, retain traits of their original, inter¬ mixed with the english, rather than the welsh character. A gentle descent leads to the village and ancient mansion of Lam- phey Court, once a palace of the bishop of St. David’s and afterwards a seat of the great lord Essex. A considerable portion of this structure remains. 2m. distant is Pembroke. To Carew, 2 mills, Barber. — Tenby, 5 miles, Donovan. — Pembroke, 8 miles, Skrine. From Briton Ferry, 7 miles, Barber; Malkin. — Newton, Evans. -Pyle, 3 miles, Wyndham; Donovan; Skrine; Warner. MARGAM is a village most delightful¬ ly situated under a magnificent and per¬ pendicular wood of oak, abounding in monastic antiquities. It lies in the hun¬ dred of Newcastle, Glamorganshire. In 1801 the population of the parish, con¬ taining the hamlets of Bronbil, Higher Cynfig, Ha r od y Porth, Margam, and Tri¬ sa in*, was 1809. There is a post-office , MARGAM. 882 here, and a market is held adjacent to the copper-works. The parish contains 3200 acres of good land 4800 that are poor and sterile, and 3200 that are uninclosed mountain and warren. The rev. John Hunt, ll.d. “the present amiable and intelligent minister” of this place, in a communication to mr. Carlisle, author of a Topographical Dictionary of Wales, con¬ jectures that Margam is a corruption of the ancient british name Margan or Mawr- gan, i. e., the great head or chief. Pre¬ vious to the 13th century this parish was called Pen Dar, i. e. the Oak Summit. There are vestiges of a ruined Chapel in the hamlet of Htifod y Porth; of one in the hamlet of Trisaint; and another, in that part of Margam Wood, called Craig y Cappel, upon an eminence, above the present Church. This is supposed to have been a private oratory appertaining to the abbey. This Abbey was founded by Robert earl of Gloucester, in 1147, and assumed the appellation of Margam, from Mawrgan, the son of Caradoc, about the year 1200. A mile from the abbey was a Convent of Nuns, called Eglieys Nunyd, or the Nun’s Church, now a farm-house, probably Earl Robert, at his death, at Gloucester, Oct. 31, 1147, endowed this convent, being part of the dominions which he became possessed of by his mar¬ riage with Maud, the daughter and heir¬ ess of Robert Fitz IJammon, the norman chieftain of Glamorganshire. By the same authority he became lord of the castle and township of Cynfig, also of Caerdiff Cas¬ tle. Towards the end of the 12th century, Caradoc bequeathed large possessions to the abbey of Pen Dar. In a grant of lands bestowed on the abbey in 1349, by sir John d’Abene, a descendent from Cara¬ doc, it is termed the Abbey of Margam. The wood which rises immediately from the church, in a line parallel with it, presents a magnificent object to the coun¬ try and a conspicuous landmark to the Bristol Channel. It covers the breast of a mountain 800 feet in height, more than a mile in circumference, and in grandee* is supposed to stand unrivalled. The value of the oak timber has been estimat¬ ed at 60.000 1. At the dissolution of Ab¬ beys, on the 5th of Aug. 35 Hen. 8, it was sold to sir Rice Mansel, knight, for 6421. 9s. 8 d. and he came to reside here, suffering his castles in Gower to become 8 So' MARGAM. 884 f dclapidated. A modem elegant house was built by the present possessor of the Margam estate, at the foot of the castle of Penrice. It is the residence of the Tal¬ bot family, heirs of the Mansels. ThG Old Mansion at Margam, which was at¬ tached to and included part of the Abbey, was taken down about the year 1780, but the monastic remains, which consisted chiefly of cloisters, containing an angle of a quadrangle were preserved. These lead to the grand entrance of a Chapter-house, a duodecagon, 50 feet in diameter. On the 17th of Jan. 1799, this elegant gothic structure became a ruin. The stones which were inarched in the compartments between the elliptic branching ribs of the dome, first fell; two of the ribs soon fol¬ lowed; this producing an unequal bear¬ ing upon the central column, a third stone was forced from it’s base, when the roof col¬ lapsed and fell from the side walls, leaving only the spring of the arches as a lament¬ able relic of it’s departed beauty. See a further account of this abbey in sir Rich. Colt Hoare’s edition of Giraldus Cam- briensis, vol. 1, p. 151. The parish Church which is the w. half of what existed in the monastic times, taken off at the tran¬ sept, is still a very spacious edifice ; but bccomingruinous, it was repaired, through the munificence of mr. Talbot. In re¬ storing the n. aisle to it’s original width, the old foundation was discovered, and many gravestones with ornamented cross¬ es, have been brought to light and pre¬ served. The most curious and perfect of these is a stone 6 feet by 1 foot and 8 inches in the middle width, to the mem- 6ry of an abbot, with the following verses, one on each side, without date. Constans et certus jacet hie Ryewallis opertus Abbas Robertus, cujus Deus esto misertus. A figure, the size of life, has been discov¬ ered. The legs have been broken, and the head lost. The body is in chain arm¬ our, curiously wrought. A pillar at the e. side of the church-yard, at the head of a grave, now sunk in the earth, so that it’s capital only appears, affords a subject of research. An inscription in an ancient character has not been deciphered. Re¬ cumbent on monumental tombs, highly embellished with sculpture, and alabaster ornament, are seven figures large as life, the males in armour. The Font is formed of a beautiful piece of marble dug from the rocks at the Mumbles. The roof rise: upon six pillars on each side, terminating in arches, dividing it into 8 compartments, by small pillars. The distant view of the monuments, from the 2 side aisles, is superbly striking. An organ is intended to be placed in an appropriate gallery. An extensive burying ground is contiguous, whence is a fine view of the park. There is a very curious ancient cross stands in an inclined position against the wall of one of the village ale-houses in the main street leading to the church; and in the adjoining grounds are various in¬ scribed and monumental stones; on one is the following inscription : “Senatui populusque veromanus divo Tito, divi Vespasiani, F. Vespasiano Augusto.” On the summit of a hill to the right is a square stone called Y maen Llyihyrog, i e. the lettered stone. [See Neath.] A lit- tie further is a mountain called Mynydd Dormini. The summit is a level pasture on which stands a large rude stone about 14 feet high, called by Camden Maen Lyth- yrog, and at a small distance an Aggera, or heap of loose stones. On the w. of this hill is a Roman Camp, and many old intrenchments lie contiguous. There are two roman monuments in this parish. One near Egheys Nunydd, on the high¬ road from Margam to Cynfig, on which is inscribed, “ Pompeius Carantorius.” The other upon Margam mountain, is inscrib¬ ed “Bodovicus hie jacet, filius Catotis, Irni pronepos, eternali in Domau.” MARGAM PARK has been chiefly noticed on account of it’s orangery, which is said to have originated from a Ship¬ wreck on this coast. The vessel was conveying from Portugal to queen Mary, a present from a dutch merchant, of Orange and Lemon Trees. Being stranded the plants became as a waif, or else by pur¬ chase, the property of lord Manscl. The present possessor Thomas Mansel Talbot, esq, in the year 1787, built a new Green¬ house, in a most superb stile, 327 feet in length, with a handsome doric front. The first pgrt of the interior of the building consists of a saloon for the reception of sculpture and statuary. Here are (wo roman altars of great antiquity, 2 whole statutes as large as life, of the emperor Tiberius and Severus, a statute of Her¬ cules, well executed, a beautiful vase of white marble richly embossed, with a 886 .85 MARGAM. acchanalian procession, another with ;rapes and vine leaves, all inimitably culptured; a handsome porphyry vase, Iso 2 vases from Herculaneum, with other uriosities. From the saloon enter the irangery, which is 327 feet long, 30 eet wide, and 20 feet high, for the recep- ion in winter of 160 fine orange and emon trees, with other plants. Pass for¬ ward to the other end, where there is a uilding of equal size with the first saloon, enominated a library. Here are deposited ome curious cork models of the tem- 'le of Diana, the temple of Tivoli, Ves- asian’s Triumphal Arch, and the head nd horns of an uncommon species of deer, "he exterior is plain but of great extent, t consists of circular arches of fret-work ver square windows. In the year 1800, nr. Talbot added a conservatory, with lues in the ground, 150 feet long. The rees in the green-house are all standards, danted in square boxes, and have re- narkably round branching heads. They re about 110 in number, and many of hem 18 feet high. About 40 in the con- ervatory, are planted in natural earth, md traced against a trellis framing, where ihe fruit abounds, and attains it’s native ize and excellence. The collection con- 1, ists of the Seville, China Cedra, Pome- ;ranate, Curled-leaved, and Nutmeg Orange, Lemons, Burgamots, Citrons, and ihadocks. The pleasure-ground sur- ounding these orangeries, is peculiarly avourable to the growth of ever-greens ; among these a bay tree or bush sprouting rom one root in various branches, is 56 eet high. The Arbutes are innumerable; imong which are scattered hollies, the Portugal laurel, &c. The care of Mar- jam is consigned to a gardener, who is lllowed to admit strangers, and Irequent- y attends them through the walks. Mr. Wyndham visited this Abbey about he year 1773, when the vaulted roof of he Chapter-house was perfect. He was istonished to hear that the only security >f the roof against the weather was a thick filed paper, which by no means prevcnt- ;d the rain from penetrating and filtering hrough the stone work. He concludes lis account by trusting, that, as the pro¬ prietor was a lover of antiquities, the de¬ ficiency would be corrected. But, unfor- unately, the edifiie was left to it’s fate. 4r. J. T. Barber, who visited this spot in the year 1803, says, “Just perceptible from the turf, I traced, the foundation of the Abbey Church, and the bases of four clustering pillars which probably support¬ ed the tower; the steps of the altar were also visible, besprinkled with grass; and turning over some fragments, we picked up part of the chalace for containing holy water, and several of those coloured glaz¬ ed tiles which were used in the early nor- man age for paving principal buildings, but commonly called roman tiles. I was informed by mr. Snook, the intelligent gardener of the place, who was present at the delapidation of the abbey, that the pavement formed by these tiles was the lowermost of three which were then re¬ moved; and that on digging deeper they came to an immense heap of human bones. This pavement is still in many places remaining, tho’ nearly concealed by a covering of moss. Many curious sculptured stones of high antiquity are to be met with in the park, and in the village adjoining ; the church of which presents, in it’s elevation, a more pleasing symme¬ try and composition than any norman work that I remember to have seen.” Mr. Malkin, who also visited this place in the year 1803, says, the church is a fine nor- man building. The traces of the cloisters are still visible across the court, but the celebrated Chapter-house is a heap of ruins. It is unaccountable that some method should not have been devised of protecting this fine specimen of gothic architecture from the ravages of time. Sir Richard Hoare exclaimed, on a recent visit to this spot, “ Alas! the Chapter- House, that justly admired gothic gem is no more, since all that rendered it inter¬ esting has perished; and the future tourist may exclaim, “Stat mominis umbra.” Upon the well-wooded hill to the n. which rises above Margam, it is remarka¬ ble that the trees bend so much from the sea-breeze as to exhibit the appearance of a well-clipped hedge. A Copper Vine on a plan more extensive than any other in the principality, is carried on here un¬ der the title of the English Copper Com¬ pany. This undertaking commenced a- bout the year 1776. The works consume 70 tons of coal daily. A commodious harbour at the influx of the Afon into the Severn, commands a great facility of exportation. Iron ore and lime-stone gS7 MARGAM. MERIONETHSHIRE. 888 abound in this neighbourhood. the processes of smelting, refining, and “ In our walk to Kenfic, or Cynfeg,” working the copper into bars and plates, •ays mr. Donovan, “we passed Eglwys in his “Excursions,” chap, xi, vol. 2. Nunydil, an extensive tract of land which The road to Britton Ferry, continues belonged to the church before the dissolu- under the mountains, near the Severn tion. About Jm. upon the road wc saw shore, passing some large copper-works the stone pillar before mentioned. [See to Aberafon, where it crosses a stone col. 384.] It is a quadrangular column bridge of one arch, built by the mason of about 4 feet high. The distant tower of Pont y pridd. Four miles further is a Cynfig church serves as the best guide, hilly rise, whence the scenery of Britton- there being only a cart track besides to de- ferry and Vernon-park is suddenly des¬ pend upon. Cynfig harbours a desperate cried. banditti of lurking fellows, who obtain a On the road to Pyle, Cynfig is left to profitable livelihood by smuggling, the the right. plunder of wrecks, Sec., whom it is ne- Xo Pyle> 3 mUe3j Barber . Malkin . cessary to visit with caution.” Mr. Don- — Britton Ferry, by way of Aberafon, 7 miles, ovan was very much insulted by the in- Wyndham ; Donovan;EvansjSkrine; Warner. habitants as he was making a drawing of — Bridgend, 9 miles. a coffin-like stone in the church yard, and tho’ attended by a companion and a guide from Margam, he was obliged to quit the MEIRIONYDDSHIRE, or modcrnly place rather abruptly, under a volley of Merionethshire, is so called from Meirion, menace. The lake of Cevjig is esteem- the son of Tibiawn, and grandson of Cu¬ ed a singular geologic curiosity. The nedda, a noble british chieftain who in water is embosomed in a depression of an the 5th century rescued this district from irregular form, in the midst of sands, and the grasp of the Irish, obtaining as boon, tho’ lying within a very short distance of large territories, which he gavellcd out the sea at flood tide, invariably retains among his ten sons and two grandsons, it’s freshness pure and untainted by the The romans called this part of the country muriatic properties of the former. The Mervinia. Traces of their works appear circumference of this pool is estimated at under the names of Tommen y Bala, Caer l|m. The Nympha alba abounds in the Gai, CcfnCaer, Tommen y Mur, nearFes- 6hallows of this water- The Viola lutea tiniog, &c. &c. Coins have been dis- is abundant on the adjoining heath. The covered of Domitian, at Caer gai; of ruin of Cenfig Castle is obscure and rarely Philippus, Cresar Victorious Posthumus, visited. It lies at a distance from this Tetricius, and others with a female head, pool, upon a small eminence, surrounded the inscription round the exergue “ Divae by a cluster of sand hills, in the midst of a Marianae,” on the obverse side, a man sit- sandy plain, which stretches along one ting between the wings of a flying eagle side of the village. Tradition says that with a javelin in his hand, within this it was the castellated residence ofFitz- inscription, consecratio, in a rock near liamon for some years after he over- Llanbedr. In digging at Caer Gai, a stone came Glamorganshire, while the castle was found inscribed “hic jacet salvia- of Caerdiffwas rebuilding; to which ac- nusbursocavi filius cupetian.” The count history adds a concurrent testimony, roman road called Sam Helen has been [See sir E. Stradling and Lcland.] Tay- traced from the fine camp of Tommen y Mur bach is a small place inhabited by coal to Rhyd yr Helen in the parish of Festini- miners and smelters belonging to the ad- og; whence crossing several farms, it ex- joining very extensive copper works, tends to Dinas Emrys in Caernarvonshire. There is no accommodation here for the From the direction of it’s branches one of traveller, the nearest is at Aberafon a mile them is conjectured to have led to Cono distant. Taybach copper works are well vium and the other to Segontium. Me- worth a minute inspection ; but no strang- rionethshire is a maritime county, lying ers are allowed to enter them without on the Irish sea, against which this ocean leave from the proprietors or their agent, has beat with such violence as to have who has a house upon the spot. Mr. made considerable encroachment*. Ac- Donovan has given a particular detail of cording to ancient history a whole cantref 189 MERIONETHSHIRE. 8QO r hundredcalled Cantre’r Gwaelod, stretch, ng n. and s-w. for 12m. in length and bout 5 in breadth, was covered and lost. See col. 579.] On the n. this county >artly borders on Caernarvonshire, sep- rated by an immense ravine through vhich flows the Glas-lyn river. A portion o the n. is divided by an alpine ridge, ex¬ ending from beyond Rug to Llyn Elidyr n the w. Montgomeryshire lies to the e. nd the river Dovey severs it from Car- iganon the s. It’s length from Beddgelert ear Snowdon, to Iiwlch ij Fcdwen, on the onfines of Montgomeryshire, extends 43 i.; and from Harlech to the boundary of .langollen parish, 38m.; it is 154m. in ircumference. This county is extremely rountainous. Contrasted with the gayer cenes of a highly cultivated country the eneral aspect of Merioneth is bleak and reary ; but examined with a painter’s or oet’s eye an endless diversity will be een, fraught with the most captivating harms. Exclusive of the grandeur of it’s naritime views, not only exceedingly afty mountains with innumerable inac- essible crags; but also lower hills, some evel plains, and humble vallies, inter¬ spersed with woods, lakes, rivers, rivulets, :ataracts, and all the rich assemblage of •ariegated nature. The principal Moun¬ tains of this county are Cader Idris, the wo Arans, Benllyn, and Fowddy, the two \rrenigs, Moelwyn, and others. [see 147.J The Rivers of this county are the Dee formed by two small rivulets, which ise from springs upon the side of Aran jen-llyn; the Maw or Mauiddac, rising lbout the centre of the county ; the Dovey >r Dyfi, having it’s source at the foot of he monntainous ridge through which the :elebrated pass of Iiwlch y gives forms a .ommunication with the adjacent parts of Montgomeryshire; the Glaslyn, and Dwy’- 'id, conjointly flow to the sea by theTraeth aiawr and Traeth bychan. Near the mouth of the Dovey are large iron works. The Lakes are Llyn legal, near Bala, and Llyn Talyllyn at the foot of Cader Idris. Those of an inferior order are Llyn Etider, Llyn Tecwyn ucha, and isa, Llyn y cwm bychan, Llyn arrenig. Sc c. Sc c. The Soil is various. The mountains consist principally of granite, porphyry, and other unstratified rocks; the secondary hills are .composed of primitive or mixed schistus. The vayies contain schistose clay, and the more level parts of the country abound with peat earth, forming bogs and tur¬ baries. Leland in describing the differ¬ ent comots, represents them as generally well wooded, and abounding in corn and pasture. [Itin. v.40.] At present the in¬ habitants chiefly attend to breeding and the dairy. The pastures in the vallies are good, and the hills furnish extensive sheep walks, while goats browse among the ad¬ jacent crags- The peat bogs produce turf, which forms the principal fuel of the district. Considerable improvements have not been made in Merionethshire, yet some instances maybe recounted. Mr. Corbet upon his demesne at Ynysymaengwyn, con¬ sisting of 260 acres, has improved it from a mere turbary to fields producing 500 tons of hay annually. The expense of the improvement was 821/. 6s. 3d. The old rent was 91. 15s. 9d. the present 450/. 2s. 6d. The late mr. Oakley of Tany- bwlch, was in 1797 presented with agold medal, by the Society for Encouragement of Arts, for improving boggy land. Upon Rug demesne the late col. Salisbury drain¬ ed a considerable tract of wet, peaty, and argillaceous soils. Sir Edward Lloyd im¬ proved the lands upon Traeth muter marsh, by embanking and draining so that the land now lets for seven times it’s former value. The grand embankment must not be forgotten. [see Trimadoc.J Sir Robert Williams Vaughan is a great landed proprietor and improver. He resides up¬ on his own estate, and not only sets the example of amelioration, but assists his numerous tenants to follow his plans. The Roads in this county have been put into good repair, 200m. of new or im¬ proved roads have been formed in the county within the space of the last 35 years. Among these may be mentioned the fine road from Dolgtlly to Barmouth and one from Pont Aberglaslyn towards Tany bwlch. The beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery constitute this one of the most pleasant and diversified rides in the principality. This grand link connects a chain of roads, through the whole extent of Wales from Holyhead to St. Davids. This county had, in Ee- land’s time, “meately good plenty of wood;” this produce has since failed, and it’s agriculture been neglected. A spirit of planting has however prevailed of latu years. Sir Robert Williams Vaughan, 891 MERIONETHSHIRE. MERTHYR TYDFIL. 89 lord Powys, sir Edward Price Lloyd, mr. York, and many others employ proper woodmen to superintend, fence, thin, and protect their plantations. The late col. Salisbury clothed the demesne of Rug, the late Bell Lloyd, esq. attended in the same way to Plas Edernion estate; and dr. Thackeray received the gold medal for his extensive plantations. It’s Manufac¬ tures principally consist of woollen goods, such as strong cloths, druggets, kerseymeres, flannels, stockings, gloves, woollen wigs, &c, The divisions of the county have been changed at differ¬ ent times. It is at present divided into 5 comots or hundreds, called Ardwdwy, Penllyn, Estumaner, Edernion, and Taly- bont. It contains 37 parishes and 5 mar¬ ket towns, viz. Harlech, Bala, Dolgelley, Dinas mowddu, and Corwen. Tywen or Towyn and Barmouth, have lately risen to the same distinction. By the returns made to parliament in 1811, the houses amounted in number to 6022, and the pop¬ ulation to 30,024 of which 1270 were said to be employed in trade, or business, and 3619 in agriculture. This county returns one member to parliament; is partly in the diocesses of Bangor and St. Asaph, province of Canterbury; and in 1806 paid 156,251/. property tax; in 1803, 9440/. poor’s rate ; and pays one part of the land-tax. Merionethshire is very unfavourable to the production of fruit. From Caerphilly Castle, 17 miles, Malkin. - Pont-y-prirld, 14 miles, Evans ; Manby. - Brecon, 19 miles, Skrine. MERTHYR TUDFYL, or Merthyr Tydfil in the hundred of Caerphilly, Gla¬ morganshire, derives it’s name from Tud- fyl, daughter of Brychan, prince of Bre¬ conshire, who was murdered here by a party of pagan saxons and irish picts, with her father and brother. Considered as a martyr, Tudfil had a church dedicated to her called Merthyr Tudfil, or Martyr Tud¬ fil. In after ages it was remarkable only for being a theatre for keeping alive religious dissentions, where still a large portion of the population are detached from the estab¬ lished church. The lower orders among the dissenters have indeed degenerated in¬ to the most pitiable lunacy in their devo¬ tions, proving how low fanaticism may degrade human reason. This is not in- tended a reflection on dissenters in ger h eral, among whom have appeared man 5' luminaries of learning. The enlighl ened part of this body, on the contrary 1 are every where respectable in the esti mation of all candid and liberal-minde churchmen. “ This spot, says mr. Evans was naturally retired, and calculated t aid reflection ; but the genii of the grove have been driven from their retiremem by the rude bustle of manufactories; ani to silence and quiet have succeeded th.; noise aud tumult of business. The dis covery of rich iron mines, as well as ever substance necessary for the reduction 0 it’s ores, soon attracted the eagle eye 0 trade; and the persevering spirits of a few Jl individuals have enlarged it to a place 0 great and increasing importance.” Thi first dissenting congregation in Wales wa formed here about 1620 by Vavasor Pow 1 8 el, a man celebrated in the annals of non | ei conformity, descended on his father’s sid< | ^ from the Powelsof Knuckles, of Radnor 1 8 shire, on his mother’s from the Vavasor “ of Yorkshire, who came into Wales. Thi ! 1 place was a very inconsiderable villagt ; till about 1755, when the late mr. Bacor attended to the iron and coal mines, anc obtained a lease of a district 8m. long and 4 wide, at the rent of 200/. per an¬ num for 99 years. After acquiring im¬ mense riches, about the year 1783 he disposed of the tract in leases; Cyfartha works, being the largest portion, to mr. Crawshay.and the rest to mr. Hill. From these works the heirs of mr. Bacon, it is said, derived for many years, a clear an¬ nual income of 10,000/. Mr. Crawshay’s works are the largest in the kingdom ; he employs constantly 1500 men ;and pays in monthly expenditures, including other items, about 10,000/. From the canal ac¬ counts it appears that 9906 tons of iron were sent to Caerdiff between Oct. 1, 1805 and Oct. 1, 1806, averaging about 190 tons per week. The number of smelting houses at Merthyr Tydfil is 16. About the year 1800 an overshot wheel was constructed by Watkin George and William Aubrey, under the auspices of mr. Crawshay, upwards of 50 feet in diameter and 6 in breadth. The gudgeons i on which the wheel turns weigh 100 tons, supposed to be the largest in the kingdom, formed entirely of cast iron, and cost 4000/. The water which turns it is )3 MERTHYR TYDFIL. 89 i ought from a stream in the hills about n. off, upon a platform of wood support- 1 chiefly by stone pillars, except in one ace, where it crosses a bridge supported r timber for the space of about 100 yards, evated upwards of 80 feet above the bed the river, forming a very singular ap- ;arance. He now works 6 furnaces, id 2 rolling-mills; for these 4 steam en- nes are employed. The quantity of on sent from Penydarran works by the inal, from Oct. 1805 to Oct. 1806, was 163 tons, so that the proprietor mr. Hum- rrey must employ about 1000 men, and rpend in wages, monthly, about '7000/. owlais iron-works, belonging to messrs. ewis and Tate produced in the year 306, 5432 tons, Plymouth works, belong- ig to mr. Hill sent out during the same eriod, 3952 tons, or 26 tons per week, ,mploying about 500 men at a monthly xpense of about 4000/. The population f this town is now the largest in the prin- ipality. In Dec. 1803, the number of le inhabitants was calculated at upwards ,f 11,000, without including the suburbs, wansea, heretofore the largest town in Vales, exceeding every other town by at past 1000 inhabitants is now perhaps oubled by Merthyr Tydfil, but the ex- ernal appearance of the former is far su¬ perior. The splendours of this town be- in and end with the house of mr. Hum- ■hrey, at Pendarren, which is large and legant, with fine gardens, green-houses, tot-houses, &c. Merthyr Tydfil is com- iosed chiefly of irregular streets and small wildings. “ But a few miles distant,” ays mr. Malkin, “you can scarcely pre- rail with the rustic to acceptyour gratuity, tho’ he has lost half his day’s work in directing you over the mountains; but here you are beset with the demands of importunate hordes upon your purse, tho’ the only favour you request, is to view the objects of your curiosity without their intrusion.” There is a printing-office here, and a bookseller, who communicates with London every week. Several book- societies exist, and a philosophical society. The old Church here has been taken down and a new one recently built. It is a rec¬ tory, the marquis of Bute, patron. Here is also a chapel of ease, ten dissenting chapels, and a theatre. This town con¬ tains 3 market places, well supplied twice a week. The Fairs are holdeo on May 13, Trinity Monday, Sep. 3, Dec. 2 upon a mountain, called the Waun, about lm. above the town, at a very ancient market-place, where is a large public house, and some cottages. In this neigh¬ bourhood are found good millstones, and limestone rocks, in which are beds of black marble, with marble of various other colours; chalybeate springs; flag-stones, and slate. About 3m. n-e. of Merthyr Tydfil ^m. out of the old road, over the mountains to Brecon, is the very ancient castle of Morlais on the top of a mountain, much dismantled and spread about. This castle is reported to have been the seat of the kings of Brecon, and was demolished by the parliamentary army in the 17th cen¬ tury. [See Pont y pridd.] There is a canal from Merthyr Tydfil to CaerdifF, which was completed in June 1798. It is navigable for barges of 100 tons. In some places it skirts precipitous mountains at the height of 300 feet above the river TafF, which it accompanies. The space it pass¬ es is 26 miles, in which there are 40 locks, and as many bridges across it. The new tram road runs nearly by it’s side. On the 21st of February 1804, a waggon was put in motion by the power of steam, con¬ veyed to a distance of 9 miles, with great expedition, loaded with 10 tons of iron and 70 persons. The principal Inns are the Crown and the Star. A direction from the New Bridce, may be taken to Brecon, through the parish of Ystrcid y fading to Pontneath Fauchan. The scenery from the bridge which crosses the Rontha Fawr at it’s con¬ fluence with the TafF, up to the salmon- leap, distant 2m. is highly interesting, singular, and impressive. About £m. be¬ fore you arrive at it there is a tremendous alpine bridge. For about ljm. above the water-fall, the Rontha Fawr, becomes broad and shallow. The road on tho r. bank only leads to some coal-pits, the tra¬ veller to pursue his way to Ystrad y Jbdvig, is obliged to ford at this place. A rugged road then continues on the 1. side of the river. At the distance of lm. there is a a 2d fall in the river. £m. further is a 3d fall, larger and more grand than the former. Presently a new scene is presented, by the junction of the 2 rivers, Rontha Fawr and Ho rt l It a bach. There is a bridge over MERTHYR TYDFIL. 805 the Rontha Fawr highly ornamental to the prospect. From this spot the road turns to the 1. up a steep till you gain the direct road from Llantrissant through these wilds ; on which you turn due n., when the mountain scenery of Ystrad y fodwg breaks upon the view. “ There is here a gate,” says mr. Malkin, “which marks the entrance of the parish; and the way lies at the foot of a rocky ridge, grand in it’s elevation, and most whimsical in the eccentricity of it’s shapes. Towers of limestone occasionally start up, which overhang the road, while a pleasing tho’ not rich valley on the 1. softens the gen¬ eral dreariness. The descent down a long hill brings the traveller to a little brook, abounding with fish, which joins the Rontha Fawr, a little way to the e. ; and at a very thort distance from the brook, after descending another hill, you cross a bridge over that river, which has disap¬ peared since it’s junction with the Rontha Fach; but from this place the sound of it is never lost, tho’ frequently out of sight, till you arrive close by it’s source at the top of the parish, distant 10m. Here¬ abouts, and for some miles to come, there is a degree of luxuriance in the valley, infinitely beyond what my entrance on the district led me to expect.” The next ob¬ ject of interest is a substantial farm-house, called Llvjyn y Pia, standing in a most pleasing solitude, where is an uncommon tall and large oak. A 2d bridge over the Rontha, on the other side of which the road winds to the 1. furnishes a most in¬ teresting point of view. The peasantry here are wretchedly accommodated. A- bout lm. from the bridge is the miserable church of Ystrad y fodwg. There is no collected village in the parish, nor any public resting place for man or horse. Passing the church, the fields and mead¬ ows become narrower and less fertile; the rocks and hills bolder and more fantas¬ tic. The front of this narrowing dell is filled up by a single cliff, high and broad at the top. Instead of passing in front of this cliff, or crossing the river, the travel¬ ler should pursue a scarcely visible track up a mountain on the r. The mountain the highest in Glamorganshire, the path winding and difficult, crossing two tor¬ rents at the top, which demand some care. The views on the way and on the summit well repay the toil, to those who 896 i * affect the grander scenes of nature. “The 1 upper part of Ystrad y fodwg parish is at untamely wild,” says mr. Malkin, “ as any thing which can be conceived; and the few, who have taken the pains to ex¬ plore the scattered magnificence of S. Wales, agree in recommending this un¬ tried route to the english traveller, as one of the most curious and striking in the principality, not excepting the more known and frequented tour of the n. counties. This parish exhibits such scenes of untouched nature as the imagination would find it difficult to surpass; and yet the existence of the place is scarcely known to the english traveller. Hanging over the steep descent, you have immedi¬ ately below you LlynFawr, a considerable lake, the largest in Glamorganshire. Upon the lofty and perpendicular crag above the lake called Craig y Llyn Fawr, there are two rude conical pillars of stone, in form of a truncated stone, rising out of a large cam or heap of stones. A stranger has considerable difficulty, in descending a narrow path, worn upon the side of an almost perpendicular declivity. It hap¬ pened that we saw 2 or 3 country people on their little mountain horses, carrying lime: their courtesy was signally displayed in riding on the very edge of the precipice, (where one false step might have precipi¬ tated them to the bottom,) that they might not interfere with our more cautious pro¬ gress. The way after descending the moun¬ tain, is rough and dreary, over barren and unprofitable land.” Just above Pont- neath Fauchan there is a fine view of the rich and beautiful vale of Neatk. The old road from Merthyr Tydfil to Brecon may be pursued from Morlais Cas¬ tle, near Geliy Fallog, over the mountains. Taff Fechan river or little Taff running on the 1. The winding down the hill lead the traveller to Pont y Sticlyll, a bridge of one arch, crossing Taff Fechan, after which the mountain on the 1. is to be climbed. The two peaks of Mount Denny or Cader Arthur, one of the Brecon Bea¬ cons, invelloped in clouds, communicate much grandeur to the prospect. Mr. Mal¬ kin says, that these peaks may almost be said to personify ubiguity, as they may be seen from the Blorenge, from Breiddin and the Clees. A green lane to the 1. leads again to the river side, here crossed by a bridge of one long narrow trunk. SIK97 MERTHYR TYDFIL. MILFORD. 89S I ’ChapelGlyncollwyn is near tliis spot. Hence i he path soon reaches the foot of Mount Denny, and presents a laborious ascent. A stone bridge is thrown across TafFFech- an; the road then lies up the.mountain to the r. close by the river, now a trickling rill, passing by it’s source. The road on the e. side of the mountain, lies between the l perpendicular and inaccessible peaks. At the bottom, to the n-e. is a deep black pool. In the vale below Mount Dennv, at a spot called Ban uwch denni, or Cadar Arthur, resided doctor John David Rees, a learned man in the time of queen Eliza¬ beth. He published in 1592 a curious and learned Latin Welsh Grammar,- in folio. From this place to Brecon the population is very scanty. CantreJ is a small collec¬ tion of houses, embosomed in wood, and enriched with verdant meadows, sloping to a small brook. The spot is over-hung by a part of Mount Denny, overshadow¬ ing this peaceful retreat. The descent continues almost as far as St. Davids, which is a kind of suburb to Brecon, with a respectable church, [see col. 173.] The New Turnpike Road to Mer¬ thyr Tudfil, presents a succession of ! varied and interesting scenery. The distances are, Coed y Cymer, 2m. Garawen Morgan, lm., cross Carr Brook, lm. cross the Llysenog river, lm. Nant ddu Chapel, Jm. cross Nant ddu. Brook, l^m. The last of these,tributary streams to the TafF fawr, is called Cryw, lijm. Cum du, 2m. Cross thy Tarell river, 4m. Brecon, 4m. [see col. 186—189.] Having entered Glamorganshire, and passed the source of the TafF, mr. Skrine pursued the rapid descent of that river into a deep valley, of a most romantic as¬ pect, till he reached the celebrated Pont y Pridd. The track to Caerphilly Castle is barren and uninteresting. To Brecon, 18 miles, Malkin; Manby. — Caerphilly Castle, 17 miles, Evans. — Pont Neath Fychan, 14 miles, thence to Neath 11 miles. — Pont y Prydd, 11 miles, Skrine. — Caerdifl, 23 miles. From Pembroke,7 miles, Barber; Evans; Skrine. - Haverfordwest, S miles, Malkin. -St. Davids, 25 miles, Fenton. MILFORD, is a town in the hundred of Rh&s, in Pembrokeshire, It’s situation 3U is singularly beautiful, occupying a point of land with a gentle slopo on all sides towards the water, which almost sur-. rounds it. To the s. the main haven spreads into a spacious reach, having the appearance of a finely bounded lake. On the e. is Prix Pill, and on the w. Priory Pill, or estuary. The town is laid out ac¬ cording to a regular plan, to consist of streets from e. to w. parallel one to the other, to be intersected by others at right angles. The Church intended to be the centre of the town, is a handsome build¬ ing, consisting of a nave and chancel, with a vaulted roof groined, and side aisles, separated from the nave by two r.ows of columns. The windows are orna¬ mented with painted glass. A neat gal¬ lery contains a barrel organ. A vase of red porphyry brought from Egypt by dr, Pococke, with the truck of the main mast of L'Orient, which bore the french admir¬ al’s flag at the battle of the Nile ; the latter is intended to commemorate the 1st of August, and the former is a cenotaph to lord Nelson, thus inscribed : “ The Almighty blessed his course, and ended it in victory, permitted him to become an immortal example for the heroic navy of the united kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, to uphold the honour and empire of it’s sovereign on the seas.” An elegant vase of Derbyshire marble forms the baptismal font. The Church is surrounded by a wall, entered by hand¬ some iron gates, between freestone pillars. A little to the e. is the old chapel of St. Catherine, partly ruinated, now used for a powder magazine. The ground for building at Milford is let on life-leases. There is a neat Market house, and a market twice a week. The Hotel is a large and commodious building on a grand scale; the Custom-house, is neat and convenient. The inns, shops, stores, and public build¬ ings, are confined to the lowest streets. The Markets are held on Tuesday and Saturday; but it has no fairs. To this place attaches many advantages of mail coaches, packets to Ireland, and a com¬ mercial intercourse with the remotest parts of the globe. For these advantages Pembrokeshire is greatly indebted to mr. Greville, who in consequence of an act of parliament, which enabled sir VVm. Hamil¬ ton, lord of the manors of Hubberston and Pill, to set out legal quays, make toads. 890 MILFORD. 900 ? regulate the police, Sec., he was in 1790, Prix Pill, stands Castle Pill. During the t intrusted with the sole guardianship of civil wars in 1644 it was considered a very 1 the infant establishment. The capital strong post, containing a mixture of an- hotel was first built to accommodate the cient earthworks improved by later ma- mail-coaches and packets. A town was sonry, but now it exhibits little of what then planned, the ground laid out in allot- it once was. ments, and built upon, till regular streets The noble harbour of MILFORD-HA- were formed, assuming an air of neatness VEN, Pembrokeshire, immortalized by and consequence. A market was estab- the strains of our great dramatic poet, is of lished, and a custom-house built. Capt. an oblong figure; about 10m. in length, Huddart’s plans have been adopted, and and from 1 to 2 in width. It is considered the lights placed in better positions, so that the best and safest in Great Britain, and the Haven can be approached by day or inferior to none in Europe; abounding by night in perfect safety. A Dock-Yard with the best anchorage, and having 5 Iras been formed after apian by lord Spen- bays, 10 creeks, and 13 roads. Two forts, cer. In this yard mr. Barrallier superin- which were erected in the time of Eliza- tended the building of 3 king’s ships, i.e. bethon the opposite points of the entrance, i the Nautilus, the Lavinia, and the Milford called Nangle aud Dale block-houses, are i of 74 guns. This dock lies just below the now neglected. As a picturesque object, terrace upon the s. shore. The whale- Milford-havcn is chiefly interesting for it’s fishery has been carried on with great noble sheet of water: it’s peaceable success from Milford, but the entire pro- shores, rising in gentle hills, may please duce has been monopolized by great capi- from their flowing outline ; but unclothed tals. Milford has an Observatory furnish- with wood, and unbroken into crags and ed with a most extensive apparatus of in- precipices, their sameness fails to interest struments, superintended by mr. Firmin- an eye habituated to bolder scenery. The ger, who was 8 years sole assistant to dr. mouth of the haven, turning suddenly, Maskelync, Two Batteries have been gives it from most points of view the ap- erected, each with 7 guns. Lord Caw- pearance of a lake; which reminds the dor gives every 1st of August a cup value traveller of Cumberland ; yettho’ it’s sur- 25 or 30/. as a prize to the winner in a boat face be greater, a lake far transcend it race. Upon the w. side of the influx in the accompaniments of rock and wood, called Priory Pill, stands the old town of and in a sedgy margin which mixes it’s ver- Haking. (signifying a strand). The par- dure with the water; whereas the haven ish church of Milford is at Hubberstown, is surrounded by a broad stripe of mud between which and Haking, stands the except at high tide : this defect, however, Observatory, and contiguous is the Mathe- is constituent to all estuaries and tide riv- matical School. The quakers from the ers. More richly decorative in their island of Nantucket, who came and set- scenery are the 3 branches of Milford- I tied here in consequence of an invitation haven, which diverge at the extremity of from mr. Greville, were a valuable acces- the great basin, and distribute fertility and sion to his new colony, and commerce beauty over the principal part of Pem- and enterprise was begun and prosecuted, brokeshire. The shores abound with They are an industrious and well disposed lime-stone; which affording a rich manure, people, distinguished by honesty and (with coals and culm), is conveyed by simplicity of manners. Mr. Rotch water over a portion of the county. In is the principal of the new settlers the shores of the haven also, near it’s from America, who resides at Castle- junction with the open sea, are many Hall, built and inhabited by governor Hoi- veins of copper ore, some of which are well, who survived a diabolical imprison- conjectured to be very rich ; but none have ment at Calcutta. He left in print a cir- been explored with perseverance.—J. T. cumstantial detail of that scene of horror. Barber. The governor had quitted this place some The picturesque beauties of Milford- time before his death ; it was afterwards haven may be seen to the greatest advan- purchased by a wine-merchant of Haver- tage by taking a boat to Pembroke. As fordwest, who sold it to mr. Rotch. To you proceed up the harbour, this magnifi- the n. of this mansion upon a height above cent piece of water is forked by a penin- 001 MILFORD. 802 sula in front, dividing the great reach up to the Burton Ferry from Down Pool, which forms an interesting approach to Pembroke. At the entrance of the haven on Nangle Point, is a poor hamlet, where a house furnishes very indifferent accommodations for numerous passengers to and from Ire¬ land. Here are the ruins of a small castle and nunnery; and on the opposite point of St. Ann’s, a small light-house and block-house. About the centre of the w. side of the haven is the small village of Hubberstone Haiken, forming, with the opposite shore of the creek, what is call¬ ed the Port of Milford. Two packets are established here for Waterford, and on the n. side of the creek is an elegant Hotel and Inn. On the opposite side of the haven from Pembroke is Nayland, where sugars are discharged, and pay the duty at the cus¬ tom house at Pembroke. Here are some considerable salt works. Pyle Priory is situated in an extremely pleasant spot, near one of the creeks which branch into the channel, about lm. from Milford Haven, on the n. Bide. It was founded about the year 1200 by Adam de Rupe. He endowed it with consider¬ able portions of land, which were con¬ firmed by charter of the 25th of Edward the 3d. The founder placed here monks of the order of St. Martin of Tours, in Caldcy Island; but in process of time they grew weary of the strictness of this order ; and laying aside it’s rigid peculiarities, became common Benedictines. This foundation was subordinate to the abbey of St. Dogmael, in this county ; but at the suppression of monasteries it’s revenues were separately estimated at 6 11. 15s. 3d. per annum. It was presented in the 38th year of Henry Sth’s reign to Roger and Thomas Barlow. Very little now re¬ mains of this structure except the gate¬ house and some scattered fragments of the walls. Several cottages are attached to the original building, and erected with it’s materials- Grose has given a view of this ruin taken from the n. side, and called it “ Hubberstone Priory.” It is called by the inhabitants, “The Priory” only. Some have called it the Priory of Pendergast. The village of Pyle is placed a little to the e. on the other side of the creek. To the s. is Pendergust, distant £m. The n. is bounded by several ranges of hills af¬ fording abundance of wood and pasturage. An excursion up the harbour leads to a fork of land formed by the confluence of the two rivers Clcddau. On this point is the Castle of Ros, an ancient seat of the Owens; and higher up, on the ostiary of the eastern Cleddeu, stands Picton Castle, the seat of lord Milford, constructed in the old fashion of grandeur, mixed with distorted alterations in a modern style, com¬ manding a fine view of the water towards Landshipping, where the 2 rivers meet, and join their forces to form Milford-ha- ven. The plantations are extensive and flourishing. The grounds of Slebatch unite with those of Picton Castle. Sle¬ batch was anciently acommandery settled on the knights of St. John of Jerusalem. This place is beautifully situated on the Cleddeu. High Tor H ood stretches along the banks of this broad river as far as the eye can reach. There is here one of the best modern houses in S. Wales built by the late mr. Barlowe. After visiting these elegant and celebrated seats, mr. Malkin crossed the ferry, and pursued his course through a very pleasant country by Cresselly, with it’s luxuriant plantation of firs, to Carew. He says that Milford- haven is inexpressibly beautiful from these parts, not only in itself, but in those nu¬ merous branches which diverge from it, and intersect the country. To this cir¬ cumstance Lawrenny owes a large portion of it’s beauty. It is on one of these arms that the noble castle of Carew is situated, in a rich and beautiful country. It’s ruins are among the most sumptuous of the principality. The castle might even yei be reinstated and form one of the most dig¬ nified antique residences in the kingdom; but the surrounding estate is nearly alien¬ ated. The walls are very thick and con¬ structed of solid masonry. The village of Carew is very poor. There is by tlie side of the road a cross carved all over, 14 feet high. Pembroke, 5m. On the road to Haverfordwest is a ferry over the principal arm of Milford- haven. Proceeding up a high bank of the haven, a fine view is obtained of it’s ex¬ pansive surface, and grand undulating shores. About half way to Haverfordwest a new scene opens, consisting of a widq luxuriant valley, watered by a large arm of Milford-haven. The view is uncont- 603 MILFORD. MOEL Y DON. 904 monly rich and extensive. The town is is Haverfordwest, by the Marian’s or approached up a laborious ascent. In Magdalen’s or Mawden’s Bridge and Porte- purstiit of Haverfordwest, mr. Skrinc feld. On the r. after passing the bridge visited Latirenny, Slebatch, and Picton there arc remains of an old building, now Castle. nearly hid by cottages. To the 1. a little On the way to Haverford, is Stainldii, way up the hollow, at the foot of the com- Ancc the villa of'Adam de Stainton. In the man is the noted Cradock’s Well. This civil wars the steeple of Stainton Church was the extreme limits of the province as- was garrisoned With 20 mustiueteefs, signed to the Flemings. The following and some horsemen were stationed to cut brief account of the settlement of these off the communication between the Pill- emigrants is the substance of all that has fort and the town of Haverfordwest. It been collected respecting them. “ Henry was here that the late sir William James the first, as well as William his father, went to school. He was theson of a mil- out of respect to his queen Maud, who ierand born at Bolton-hill mill, about the wasdaughter of Baldwin, earl of Flanders, year 1722. Wearied with going with the having admitted into England great num- mill horses, he determined to go to sea, bers of Flemings, who, by the inundations and his parents indulged his choice by ap- in their own country, were compelled to pVenticing him to a Bristol trader, but this seek new habitations, and whom others proving as monotonous as that of driving followed in such swarms as to become mill horses, he escaped from the power of burdensome and dangerous to the nation, his contract by going on board an india- was induced to remove them from the man. He Was speedily advanced to the north of England, the place of their first rank of mate. He married a rich widow, footing, to a part of Pembrokeshire already •and was promoted to the rank of com- taken possession of by the Normans un- mander of the Guardian sloop of war, and der Arnulph de Montgomery, about Pem- to that of commodore on board the pro- broke, Tenby and Roos, where they tector of 44 guns, against Angria. At could not fail to prove a formidable acces- length he returned to England, to give sion to the power already employed to comfort and independence to his aged harass and subdue the Welsh.”—Fenton’s parents and relations. He was created Pembrokeshire, p. 202. baronet July 25, 1778, and when he died he was elder brother of the Trinity-house, governor of Greenwich-Hospital, fellow of the Royal Society, and representative in parliament for West Loo. Proceed to lids Market, a village but of mean ap¬ pearance, lying upon the edge of a cheer- To Haverfordwest, 8 miles, Barber; Evans; Skrine. — Pembroke, 7 miles, Malkin: From Llanedwen, 5 mile, Aikin; Bingley. MOEL Y DON (the hill of the wave) ful little vale, well-wooded, and watered in the parish of Uan Edwin, in the county by a small stream. Here sir Richard Walter of Anglcsea; a chapelry to the vicarage had a mansion, the remains of which be- of Llan Idan, patron, lord Boston. The speak that it was once highly respectable, population of this parish in 1801, was 343. His daughter miss Lucy Walter, a favourite This church was built in the year 640. of Charles the 2d. resided here; she was situated on the Anglesea side of the Me- mother to the unfortunate duke of Mon- nai, 4m. n-e. from Caernarvon, at which mouth. Dr. Zachary Williams, father place there is a ferry ; it is celebrated as be- of miss Williams, the blind lady who lived ing the spot wherein the year 1282, part of under dr. Johnson’s roof was born here, the army of Edward 1, met with great Hence take the road leading to Johnson, slaughter and a severe defeat from the the seat of the late lord Kensington, since Welsh. his death let to a tenant. This venerable About lm. hence are the grounds of peer was a mighty hunter, and could vault lord Uxbridge, at Plas Newydd, Behind into his saddle without assistance at the the house are 2 Cromlechs. The larger is age of 86. He sat in parliament for Ha- 13 feet long by 12 broad; the upper stone verfordwest, during 10 or i 1 years. The is in some places 4 feet in thickness and present nobleman, his son, has sought a rests upon 5 supporters. The cromlech residence in another county. 5m. further seems a sepulchral monumenf, for under 906 , I 05 MOEL Y DON. MOLD. everal of them bones have been found, torians among the most splendid actions They arc undoubtedly the originals of our >resent tombs, which are a diminutive md more finished cromlech. The situa- ion of the elegant house at Plas Newydd, s beautiful. Almost surrounded by wood, t commands a picturesque and extensive prospect of the British Alps. [See further particulars under the title Plas Newydd.] Plants near Moel y don. Sumbucus ebulus, in a hedge upon the coast. Re¬ seda luteola, upon the coast between this ferry and Tal y foel. Geranium sangui- neum, upon cliffs of the coast between Tal y foel ferry. ToLkmerehymedd, 16miles, Aikin. — Plas Newydd, 2 miles, Bingley. , From Caergwrle,6J miles, Bingley. - Ruthin, 9 miles, Hutton. -Hawarden, 6 miles, Warner; Gilpin. - Chester, 11| miles, Skrine. -Vale of Crucis, 20 miles, Pennant. Back from Caergwrle, 8 miles, Pennant, MOLD, called in welsh Yr Wyddgrug, is a small market town in the hundred of the same name, in Flintshire, situated up¬ on a contracted yet fertile plain, surround¬ ed by rugged hills, abounding with min¬ eral treasure. It consists principally of one long and spacious street, containing 682 houses, the number of inhabitants 4235, now the modern seat of- the grand Sessions. Upon the n. side of the town is a mount called Bailey-hill, from ballium whence is a fine view of the circumjacent country. It is the site of a strong castle, once defended by ramparts and surround¬ ed by a deep fossa. The only remains are a few stones of the keep. In the time of Henry 1 it appears among the possessions of Robert de Montalto, high steward of Chester. It was first reduced by storm in 1144, by welsh forces under Owen Gwynedd. It subsequently was taken and retaken, destroyed, rebuilt, and de¬ stroyed again. [See Wynne’s History of Wales, p. 279.] It appears to have been strongly fortified by great ditches, not¬ withstanding it’s arduous ascent. It is divided into three parts : the lower bal¬ lium, the upper, and the keep, or donjon. The tops of the two first have been level¬ led by art, and are‘separated by deep fosses. The keep was upon a part great¬ ly and artificially elevated. The seige of Mold is mentioned by the Welsh his- of their lannals. The bards of the day made it little inferior to the seige of Troy. But all it’s heroic monuments and names are lost. Sir Thomas Mostyn is lord of the manor. The summit of this hill commands a short but most exquisite view; of the circumjacent vale; and to the w., Moelfamma rises with awful pre-eminence among the Clwydian lulls. On the ‘25th. of October 1810, the inhabitants of the counties of Flint and Denbigh assembled upon the summit of Moel Famma, to the number of 3000, to express their loyalty by erecting a column to commemorate! the event of his majesty king George the third having completed the 50th year of his reign. The station commands a view, of Black comb in Cumberland, Snowdon, Cader Idris, the Wrekin in Salop, and ex¬ tends into Staffordshire and Derbyshire. The column was designed by Harrison, of Lancaster, aLready known as.the architect of Chester Castle, and other buildings; wherein he has displayed much classical taste. The following was written for the purpose of inscription. This stone was laid by George Lord Kenyon, Baron of Gredington in Flintshire, he being graciously deputed by Ilis Rojfal Highness the; Priilce of Wales, for and in his name to fey : the same ; when the Right Uon. .Earl Grosvenor, and Sir Watkin William Wynne, Bart. were Lords Lieutenants of the Counties of Flint and Denbigh, in the .Sheriffalty of Richard Lloyd, of Fnon Ilawlog, and Francis Richard Price, of Bryn-y-pys, esquires, in the presence of the nobility and gentry, 1 and yeomanry of each county, it being part of the foundation of an edifice to be erected by Voluntary Subscription, in commemoration of our much beloved and revered Monarch George the Third, Kinj; of the ynited kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, completing his fiftieth year of his'gracious reign','and oh the 25 Oct. in the year of the Chritian aera 1810.” The coins and medals deposited under the first stone were put into a vase and con¬ sisted of a guinea of George 3, a half guinea alter the Union with Ireland, a gilt medal of George 3 on completing the 50th year of his reign, a white medal of the same king, on the same occasion, 2 other medals of his majesty on occasions of his victories and preservation, a bronze 907 MOLD. 908 medal on the union with Ireland, a bronze medal on the peace, 1802; another of the prince and princess of Wales, another of Earl Howe, another of Marquis Cornwallis, and another of Lord Nelson. The Church is a handsome structure, built in the time of Henry 7. The windows are wide, with ob¬ tusely pointed arches. The walls, towards the parapet are ornamented with various animals cut in stone. It consists of a nave, 2 side aisles, and a tower. The latter is more modern, yet built, very ju¬ diciously, in the same style as the rest of the building. The Ulterior wants chaste¬ ness, yet is elegant. The ailes are sep¬ arated from the nave by clustered columns, composed of 4round pilasters, with foliated capitals. Between the arches are angelic figures presenting shields, charged with some emblem allusive to the passion of Christ, or the arms of benefactors. A mural monument has a label, with a sup¬ porting angel on one side and a bishop on the other, inscribed I10BTUS rMISSIONE DIVINA EPSUE ASSAV : forming a pompous cenataph to the mem¬ ory of Robert Warton, alias Purfew, who was abbot of Bermondsey in Surry, and elected bishop of St. Asaph in 1536; he was a great benefactor to this place. In the s. aisle is a superb monument to Rob. Davies, esq. of Llannerch, who died May G2, 1728, aged 24. A fine well-executed figure, in a standing attitude, is ridiculous¬ ly clad in a roman costume. This false taste in statuaries has been frequently censured, and it cannot be censured too severely. The rev. J. Evans very sensibly remarks “ If the arts are to be subservient as handmaids to history, then they ought to represent things as they really are ; the garb, visage, &c. &c. should be strictly copied, as tending to elucidate the man¬ ners and customs of different countries and distant ages. Anachronisms of this kind, tend to destroy the unities, both of time and place, and confound things which should be kept separate and dis¬ tinct,”—Beau, of Eng. xvii, 691. The following singular epitaph to dr. Wynne, was composed by himself, engraved dur¬ ing his life-time and put up here. William Wynne, of Tower, d.d. some time fellow of All-souls College, Ox¬ ford, and rector of Llanfechan in this diocese, departed this life [March 3,1776, aged 77.] In conformity to an ancient usage, from a proper regard to decency’ and a concern for the health of his fellow creatures, he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the adjoin¬ ing church yard, and not in the church ; and, as he scorned flattering of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered himself when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his life. God be merciful to me a sin¬ ner ! Heb. DDUW, Heb-ddim. Large mills for spinning wool, are in this vicini¬ ty, the property of messrs. Knight and Co. The Dragon Inn is said to be the best at Mold, but exorbitant; the Black Lion and the Griffin are secondary. The Market is held on Saturday, and the Fairs on Feb. 13, Mar. 21, May 12, Aug. 2, and Nov. 22. Plants found in the neighbourhood of Mold. In the upper wood at Tower, Ve¬ ronica montana; and Chrysosplenium al- ternifolium. In the fields between the house Fron and the upper wood, Satyrium viride. In the meadow in front of Plas fron, Polygonum bistorta. In woods and hedges, between Mold and Nercwys, Prunus padus. Upon an old wall near the town, Antirrhinum cymbalaria. In wet places, about 2m. on the n. side of the Chester-road, near Offa’s dyke, Pilularia globulifera. Four m. s. of Mold is Nercwys, the seat of miss Gifford, a fine old mansion, built in 1638 by John Wynne, esq. and near it Nercwys Chapel, with a spire steeple ; lg m. n-w. is Fron; near Mold Pentre Hobin, I Gwasanneu, and Rual. The last is the seat of Thomas Griffith, esq. built in 1634, by Evan Edwards, in the shape of a roman H. It contains a portrait -of the founder by Vandyke ; 2 heads of Richard earl of Dor¬ set and his countess, the celebrated Anne Clifford; with several highly finished family pictures. Near this place is Macs y Garmon, or the field of Germanus, where according to Constantius of Lyons, who wrote the life of saint Germanus, in Easter week 420, a battle was fought between the Piets and Saxons and the Britons, headed by the bishops Germanus and Lupus. It is said, that previous to the engagement Germanus had instructed his soldiers to pronounce at his command the word Alleluia, very audibly, three times, at which the enemy affrighted and trem¬ bling, fled, and were nearly all cut to S09 MOLD. 910 i pieces or drowned in the river adjoining. Hence this victory has been called Victoria Allcluiatica. A pyramidal stone column and inscription, placed near the spot, in 173d, by the late Nehemiah Griffith, esq. of Rhual, commemorates the event. In the Foedera of Rhymer, i, 443, this event is stated to have taken place in 447 ; Mat¬ thew of Westminster fixes the date 448. Not far from Mold, on the road to Northop, is passed on the 1. Gwasanneu, the seat of the family of Davies, in a plea¬ sant situation. On rar. Warner’s return to Caerwys he vissted Llyny Pandu mine, held under lease from lord Grosvenor, by the late spirited and indefatigable miner and manu¬ facturer, John Wilkinson, esq. This vein contains one head of solid ore, upwards of 6 feet wide; another 4 feet. The width upon the bottoms, are upon an average 2 feet, for an extent of 80 or 00 yards. The ore yields from 16 to 13 cwt. of lead per ton. The smelting-houses range upon the side of the river. A mill for rolling lead into sheets is turned by a water wheel. A great influx of water {supposed to be the subterraneous stream of the ALun, which drive* and flows un¬ derground for the space of somewhat less than a mile near this spot), for some time prevented the raising of lead ore at this place, but this celebrated iron, master, loth to give up the profits likely to accrue from such a mine, erected a phalanx of steam engines to eject the troublesome in¬ truder ; which notwithstanding still re¬ mained tenant in possession, and baffled all the efforts of engineering. Mr. Wil¬ kinson, unwilling to quit the field, brought fresh recruits from Bersham, and erected a 6th steam engine, of greater powers than the other five. The result of his last attack is doubtful. The rev. W. Davies, of Manafan, after stating the foregoing cir¬ cumstances, in his “ General View of N. Wales,” adds If the proprietors be deter¬ mined to come off triumphant, in expel¬ ling the Alun from it’s subterraneous do¬ main, their dernier resort should be to reverse the course of the stream near it’s source, by cutting a level under Moel y Fammau, and turning it headlong into the vale ot Glwyd.” Mr. Warner, visited, also, a little further down the river a lead, nline called Pen y Fron, belonging to mr; Ingleby. These lead-mines and other works are incalculably rich, having one vein consisting of solid ore from 4 to 3 feet thick; 70 tons have sometimes been obtained in the course of a week. The remaining 6m. exhibit a constant suc¬ cession of the most beautiful and roman¬ tic scenes. Two miles on the Chester RoAooccurs Offa’s dyke, the ancient and famous bound¬ ary between Wales and England. The traveller would pass it unnoticed, if not pointed out. All that remains is a small hollow, which runs along the cultivated fields. Perhaps not above 18 inches deep in the centre, or more than 20 yards in breadth. When the Romans made their inroads into this island, about the com¬ mencement of the Christian aera, many of the Britons were said to have retreated in¬ to Wales, at which time the river Dee, in the neighbourhood of Chester, and the Severn divided the 2 countries. All to the e. was England, and to the w. Wales. This division continued about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of his neighbours, easily raised a quarrel, and an army. He then drove them w. among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast dyke, and ordained that neither English nor Welsh man should pass it. Thus he divided in¬ stead of uniting man, promoted rancour instead of harmony, bloodshed instead of peace. A little beyond is a road to the 1. to Euloe-green. From Mold, mr Pennant took the w. side of the vale, a tract filled with gentle¬ men’s seats, digressing a little to the r. to sec the magnificent gates of Lceswoud, lately the seat of sir George Wynne, and a little higher up to Tower, then the resi¬ dence of the rev. dr. William Wynne, now mrs. Wardle. The house is small, but part of it is a true specimen of the border- houses on the confines of Scotland; a square tower of three stories. There still remains a staple in the ceiling, a mem¬ orial of the rudeness of the times. Dur¬ ing the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this place was inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd ap Blcddyn j in the time of Lcland by John Wynn ap Robert. Descending into his former road, mr. Pennant passed along the course of the Terrig, sometimes a trifling brook, but often a tremendous swell. On quitting it’s channel he went by Leeswood, or 912 911 MOLD. Cved-Llai. Farther on is Harlshealb , beau¬ tifully seated upon rising ground, insulated by the vale, and finely wooded and culti¬ vated. The house commands an elegant view of the valley divided by the rock of Caergwrle, rising out of the bottom, and capped with a ruined castle. A little further up the vale, stands Plas-Teg, a singular house belonging to the Trevors, but has long been occupied by farmers. It was built with great regularity and sim¬ ple grandeur, by Inigo Jones, in 1610. In the centre is a hall 45 feet long by 23 * a spacious stair-case ; and above, is a din¬ ing-room of the same dimensions as the ball, 12 feet 9 inches high. At each cor¬ ner of the house is a Square wing or tow¬ er: in each is a room 23 feet by 19, with closets 15§ feet in circumference. Hence mr. Pennant pursued his journey to Caer¬ gwrle. On mr. Pennant’s return from Caergwrle, he passed to Maes Garmon, and thence towards Kilken ; seeing on his way, Hesp-alun; the place where the riv¬ er Alun sinks underground, and continues a subterraneous course for half a mile, and then emerges. At 2m. distance from this place lies the church of Kilken, beneath Moel Famrna, remarkable for it’s carved roof; which is said to have been brought from the church of Basingwerk abbey on the dissolution. In this parish is Kil- ken-Hall, the property of Thomas Mostyn Edwards, esq. on the side of the turnpike- road, not far distant is the noted Ffynnon Leinw, or flowing well. The well is large and oblong, with a double wall round it. It is noticed by Camden for it’s flux and reflux; but this singularity has ceased since his time. This fountain lies in the vale of Nannerch; which extends one way to Mold ; and at the other joins with that of Bodfari the inlet into the vale of Clwyd. The house of Penbedw, a respect¬ able mansion, the residence of the late Watkin Williams, esq., is a great ornament to this little valley. This gentleman’s library contains some remains of the col¬ lection of Kenelm Digby, and some illu¬ minated books. In the meadows below the house, is part of a druidic circle, and a small tumulus. Upon one of the sum¬ mits of the mountain at a great height a- bovc the house, is a very strong british post, called Moel Arthur, with two ditches of prodigious depth. This is one of the chain of posts which defended the country of the Ordovices from the incursions of the Romans. Nannerch is a hamlet with a small church, noted for little besides a monument, in memory of Charlotte The- ophila Mostyn, wife of R. Mostyn, esq. Mr. Pennant expresses much gratitude to mr John Lloyd, the rector of this place for many communications, than whom few possessed so critical a knowledge of the welsh language and history. Leave the church of Slceifiog on the r. At the junction of the vales of Nannerch and Bod. fart, ascend to Caerwys. The direct cross road from Mold to Denbigh lies by way of Kilken, through Bulch Frainc, Galashach, Rhiwbebyll, Croc - sefa, Llandyrnog, and Whitchurch, 3m. The great road by Rual, Am. Cross the river Alun. (Within 1m. of Nannerch, on the 1. is Penbedw, Watkin Williams, esq.) Nannerch, 5;jm. Turnpike-gate, 3m. (Caerwys lies lm. to the r.) Maesmynnan, sir Thomas Mostyn, bart. lm. Bodfari, 2 m., Pont Ryffith, over the Clwyd, lm. On the 1. is Pont Ruffblh-hall, mrs. Lloyd; and on the 1. Lleweney-hall, lord Kirkwall. Denbigh, S^m. To Holywell, (on the 1. is a road for saddle horses,, across the mountains; on the highroad pass Northop, 3m., whence is a road to Chester 1 l£m. On advancing to Northop is Lower Sychdin, the rev. John Conway Potter, on the 1.; beyond is Mid¬ dle Sychdin-hill, sir Wm. Wynne; at Nor¬ thop on the 1. — Potter, esq. and further to the 1. see Upper Sychden, mrs. Lloyd ; on the r. of Northop near the sea is Kel- slcrston, John Edwards, esq.; near which is Top Fron, James Okell, esq.) pass Hal - kin, (Inn, the Raven) 2m. 7f. (on the 1. Halkin-hall, earl Grosvenor; ^m. beyond is the seat of Robert Hughes, esq.) Pen - tie Helkin, lm. (lm. beyond on the 1. Pen y Pylle, H. Humpheys, esq.; and A m . fur¬ ther, on the 1. Postyll, Wm. Boardman, esq.) Holywell, 2|m. To Ruthin, leave Fron, the seat of the rev. — Williams, to the 1. midway to Clo- mendy, 2^m. Tafarn y Celin gate, Am. where a road from Caerwys to Llangollen crosses, (an almost solitary stretch of 4m.) Bzvlch Penbarras is entered, to LlanLedr and Hall, the rev. — Thelwall, ljm. A little further on the 1. Plas isa, and near Ruthin, Cae y groes, and a little further to the r. Plas Stourbridge. Ruthin, 2Am. The country on this road becomes wilder, 813 MOLD. MONMOUTH. 914 the heights rise into mountains; smooth indeed, and rarely decorated with rock, but steep and lofty. Some of these were traversed by Gilpin, “dipping,” as he says, “ into little fertile vallies, and mount¬ ing again the opposite hills, till at length he came to the heights of Penbarris, from the brow of which is a view into the beautiful and extensive vale of Clwyd.” Down the formidable steep of this moun¬ tain he descended rapidly into the town of Ruthin, which stands at the bottom of it, and about the middle of the vale. To Nortliop, 4 miles, Bingley. — Kuthin, 7 miles, Bingley; Gilpin. Mr. Hutton ends the account of his Tours at this place. . ToCaerwys, 15 miles, Pennant; Warner. — Flint, 6 miles, Skrine. — Holywell, 9J miles. — Wrexham, 12 miles. — Denbigh, 16± miles. Along the Wye from Tintern, 8 miles, Barber. Back from an excursion to Grosmont, Barber. ' From Abergavenny, 14 miles, Coxe; Manby. Along the Wye from Ross, Gilpin; Skrine. From Ragland Castle, 8 miles, Wyndham; Skrine. -Tintern, byway of Llandogo and Trellick, 7 miles. MONMOUTH (anciently called Tre Fon, or Mongwy, from the rivers Mon and Wye) in the hundred of Scenfreth, Monmouthshire. This town, or some spot in the vicinity, is supposed by dr. Horsley and other antiquaries, to be the site of a roman station, the Blcstium of Antoninus. It was certainly one of the strong holds occupied by the Saxons to support their conquests between the Severn and the Wye, The town appears to have been fortified with walls and a moat. In Ice¬ land's time they were remaining, but de- lapidated, the moat was entire and the 4 gates standing ; which he distinguishes by the names Monk’s-gate, the Eastern gate, the Wygate, and the Monnow or western gate. At present there are no vestiges of 3 of them, and but a part of the moat, stretching from the back of Whitecross- street, to the remains of an ancient gate¬ way, in the street near the Ross turnpike, and thence to the Wye. Parts of 2 round towers which flanked the e. gate, are visi¬ ble, and the Monnow gate is entire. A Fortress existed at Monmouth previous to the norman conquest. It appears from the Domesday book to have belonged to the king, whose successors assumed the surname of Monmouth. In the reign of Henry 2, John de Monmouth was the possessor. During the distracted reign of that sovereign, Monmouth was alternately possessed by the contending parties. The cause of the barons was warmly espoused by the welsh, among whom the earl of Leicester had recruited his army previous to the disastrous battle of Evesham. John of Monmouth, the 6th in descent from Fitz Baderon, having no male issue, was induced, in the year 1257, to resign the custody and honour of possessing this demesne for a lifehold estate, to prince Edward, afterwards Edward 1, and his heirs for ever. It continued in this family till it came into the possession of John of Gaunt, by his marriage with Blanch, daugh¬ ter and heiress of Henry duke of Lancas¬ ter. The son of John of Gaunt, was Hen¬ ry of Bollingbroke, afterwards Henry 4, during whose reign this fortress became the birth-place of Henry of Monmouth, the hero of Agincourt. See a consider¬ able account of this prince in Beauties of England, vol. xi, p. 55 ; Shakspeare’s Henry 5 ; Stow’d Britain, p. 345; Cox’s Tour, p. 311, and Henry’s Great Britain, vol. ix, p. 74. It afterwards descended, by inheritance, as part of the duchy of Lancaster, to Henry 6. By his attainder it came to Edward 4, who granted it to William lord Herbert, afterwards earl of Pembroke, but reverting again to the crown, it formed a part of the duchy of Lancaster, which Henry 7 possessed. Since that period it has become private property. Previous to the conclusion of the 17th century it came into the posses¬ sion of Henry, the first duke of Beaufort, His illustrious descendent is the present proprietor. The remains of this fortress stand upon the ridge of an eminence upon the banks of the Moni'.ow, to the n. of the town, almost invelloped by other buildings. The Castle was built with red grit stone, from 6 to 10 feet in thickness,, composed of pebbles and liquidated ce¬ ment, like those described by Vitruvius. The chamber where Henry 5 was born is still distinguishable, being part of an up¬ per story, the beams of which, that sup¬ ported the floor still project from the sides. It’s dimensions are 58 feet long by 24 broad. Another large apartment, 63 feet PI 5 MONMOUTH. 916 S in length, and 46 in breadth, adjoins, kings written by Tyssilio, or St. Teliau, i probably once the baronial hall. At the bishop of St. Asaph. He has produced an n-e. angle is a circular tower 6 feet in exceedingly entertaining work, abound- diameter, which contained the winding ing with traditionary tales. It contains stair-case leading to the grand apartments, the affecting history of king Leir, which In the middle of these ruins is a handsome Spencer transferred into his “Fairy domestic edifice, constructed of stones Queen,” and from this or from a transla- taken from the surrounding fragments, tion of Geoffrey, probably Shakespeare It is dated 1673 and formed an occasional formed his tragedy. Milton selected also residence of the Beaufort family. It is his beautiful fiction of Sabrina from Geof- novv a boarding school for young ladies, frey. See further Bale’s English Writers, Vestiges of the castle are apparent among Moreri’s Historical Dictionary, Gough’s stables and outhouses. “The transmu- Camden, ii, 483, Cambrian Register, for tations of time,” says mr. Gilpin, “ are 1795, p. 347, and Cox’s Monmouthshire, often ludicrous ; Monmouth castle was p. 294. St. Mary's Church, is a hand- * formerly the palace of a king, and the some modern edifice, remarkable for it’s birth-place of a mighty prince ; it is noyy spire, rising 200 feet from the foundation, a yard for fatting ducks.” Some vaults The body of the church is well propor- under the house of mr. Cecil, of the Dyf- tioned, and the range of columns separat- frin, are of an ancient character. They ing the nave from the aisle, and support- may be attributed to saxon if not to roman ing an horizontal entablature, would have workmanship. The present parish an uniform and pleasing effect, were it Church occupies the site of the church of not destroyed by a finely pointed e. win- the Priory, which about the year 1740 was dow, with highly ornamented tracery partly taken down and leconstructed. which produces a discordance of style. The tower and lower part of the spire are The traveller who is fond of prospects, the only fragments of the ancient edifice, will ascend the tower. The suburbs The remains of this benedictine priory of Monmouth stretch beyond the Mon¬ lies on the n. side of St. Mary’s Church, now, and occupy the site of what was It was founded in the reign of Henry 1, probably the ancient british town. Near by Wihenoc lord of Monmouth, and was the bridge over the Monnow stands St. a cell to the monastery of St. Florence, Thomas's Church, a curious old structure, near Salmur in Anjou. The Priory house supposed to have been built by the saxons. forms a large family residence belonging It is now a chapel of ease to St. Mary’s, to Daniel Williams, esq. and contains an and Tuesdays, are appropriated for the apartment which the legend of the place service. The circular shape of the door- declares to have been the library of the ways indicate a saxon character, but the I celebrated historian Galfredius Arthurius, more ancient parts might have been brit- bishop of St. Asaph, better known by ish. The mouldings of the arch, between i Geoffrey of Monmouth, who lived about the nave and the chancel and the n. door- the middle of the 12th century. It is sup- way of the nave, excite particular atten- posed that he was educated at this place, tion. A Free School was founded at He resigned his see, it is said, to pursue Monmouth in the reign of James 1, by bis studies unmolested, and retired to the Wm. Jones, haberdasher. Burton, in his paonastery of Abingdon, of which he was History of Wales, writes of the founder abbot. He translated the history of Britain of this charity as follows ; Wm. Jones was from the british language into latin ; a born at Monmouth, and forced to quit his work said to have been discovered by country fer not being able to pay ten Walter Mapaeus, while in America, and groats. Coming to London, he became brought by him into England. The vera- first a porter, and then a factor, and going city of Geoffery has been doubted by Cam- over to Hamburgh, had such a vent for den and others, but much is aertainly ow- welsh cottons, that he gained a very con¬ ing to him as an early historian. He ac- siderable estate, in a short time. He knowledges himself that his history was founded a fair School at Monmouth, allow* not wholly a translation. The best welsh ing 4 51. yearly to the master, and 90/. critics think Geoffrey’s work a vitiated salary to a lecturer, besides a stateiy translation of the History of the british Aim’s-hou.se, for 20 poor people, each hav- 917 MONMOUTH. 918 ing 2 rooms and a garden, and 3s. 6d. a removed to Beaudly, Worcestershire.”— week j all which he left to the oversight of the company of haberdashers in Lon¬ don, who discharge their trust therein to this day. Near the extremity of the town, by the side of the Monnow, is the County Jail; a new massive stone build¬ ing, which in it’s plan, regulations, and superintendance, does high credit to the public spirit of the county. It is built upon a lofty spot, in the form of an an¬ cient castle. The Bridges here are 4 in number. The first, thrown across the Wye on the road to Gloucester, is very an¬ cient, with a gateway. There are 2 bridg¬ es over the Monnow, one of which is of wood called Tibb’s, and a 4th over the lit¬ tle river Trothy. The Market-place is ornamented with a modern Town-Hall, built upon pillars, forming a handsome colonnade. The front presents a niche containing a statute of Henry 5, in an awk¬ ward attitude, with an inscription. The Trade here is inconsiderable. It’s princi¬ pal support is derived from the navigation of the Wye, in the trade between Bristol and Hereford, and intermediate places. There are some iron and tin works in the vicinity, belonging to Partridge and Co., and, in the season, a considerable quanti¬ ty of bark is brought from the woods, in the upper districts of the Wye, and here put up in numerous piles, to be pared and cleaned, previous to being exported to Chepstow, for the s. of England and Ire¬ land. A considerable part of the thriving appearance of Monmouth may be attribut¬ ed to numerous genteel families, who are induced by the pleasantness of the situa¬ tion, to fix their residence here. Caps once formed a considerable article of manufacture. Shakspeare, in his play of Henry 5, speaks of Welshmen doing “ goot service in a garden where leeks did grow, wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps.” Fuller says, “ These were the most an¬ cient, general, warm, and profitable cov¬ ering of men’s heads in this island, many thousands of people being maintained thereby. It was enacted, 13 Ehz. c. 19, that they should be worn by all persons (some of worship and quality excepted) on sabbaths and holydays, on the pain of for¬ feiting 10 groats for the omission. This act was repealed 39th of the same reign. The capper’s chapel doth still remain, but on occasion of a great plague the trade was Itin. vol. v. p. 8. This Borough and cor¬ porate town, is governed by a mayor, 2 bailiffs, and common council men. It sends one member to parliament, in con¬ junction with the burgesses of Newport and Usk. In 1801 this place consisted of 677 houses, containing 3345 inhabit¬ ants. The Market is on Saturday; the Fairs are held on Whit Tuesday, Sep. 4, Nov. 22. The principal Inns, are the Beaufort-arms, and King’s Head. Some travellers have obtained lodgings at May- hill, £m. distant from Monmouth, at the foot of a hanging orchard. Monmouth is frequently environed with aqueous ex¬ halations, probably arising from it’s low situation, and the junction of three rivers. The B alks in the vicinity of Monmouth are extremely pleasant, particularly Chip¬ penham meadow, which is a general ren¬ dezvous for company at the close of sum¬ mer evenings. It is an agreeable plain, inclosed by the town, the Wye, and the Monnow. Monmouth from a station at Tibbs’s farm, appears placed upon a semi¬ circular ridge; near Tibbs’s bridge, the scene is wild and romantic; from other points it appears situated upon a plain; from the banks of the Wye the houses seem rising upon the acclivity of a hill, the church forming a principal object. In the parish of Stanton, in the vicinity of Monmouth, is a remarkably high hill, called the Kymin, which rises from the banks of the Wye, on the Gloucestershire side of the river. A pleasant walk is traced up to it’s summit, from which a wonderful range of prospect extends to a circumference of near 300m. At the top is a handsome circular pavillion consisting of two stories: the upper a banqueting room, the lower a kitchen. The former has 5 windows, commanding different views. Mr. Heath, bookseller, of Mon¬ mouth, has published a minute descrip¬ tion of this pavillion, including a detail of the objects to be seen from it. Tea is provided at Is. for those inclined to pass an afternoon at the Kymin. Dinner may also be had. It’s summit is also adorned with a rich wood called Beaulieu grove. Several walks cut through it terminate at the brow Of steep declivities, command¬ ing great and enchanting views. jT* 1 ' 5 eminence has become celebrated from a Naval Temple which has b£en erected to 010 MONMOUTH. 920 record the eminent victories obtained by ancient residence is visible in a gothic the English on the seas, but particularly gateway; but the house is of a later date, during the American war. The edifice The apartments contain a considerable is built upon the ridge of a rock; and number of family pictures, particularly forms a square of 13 feet. The freize, that of Edward earl of Glamorgan, 6th which is continued round it, is ornament- earl and 2d marquis of Worcester. In ed with medalions of the most eminent the house-keeper’s room is a curious oak british admirals, surrounded with em- chimney-piece, brought from Raglan Cas- blematic and appropriate devices. In the tie, carved with scriptural subjects; and same parish, on the edge of a precipitous in a room on the third floor is another an- declivity of lime-stone rock, is a rude cient chimney-piece inlaid with mother fragment of silicious grit, called the Buck- of pearl, and ornamented with devices. stone, the form of which resembles an ir- Tho’ designed by Inigo Jones, the edifice regular square pyramid, inverted, and has little that can recommend it to notice, standing upon it’s point or apex. It’s It is at present the seat of the duke of circumference at top is 56 feet, the point Beaufort. The armour that Harry of Mon- on which it rests, about 3 feet. “The mouth wore at the battle of Agincourt is only road bearing positive marks of roman still here, and the cradle wherein he is origin is that which leads from the leit said to have been rocked; but the fresh- bank of the Wye, up the Kymin, passes ness of thelatter bespeaks it to have been by Stanton, in Gloucestershire, and was intended for some of the Beaufort family part of the old way from Monmouth to in the reign of Charles the second. A Gloucester. At this place are many inai- cradle, more ancient, is in the possession cations of a roman settlement; the name of the rev. — Ball, of Newlands, a few of Stanton proves the existence of a roman miles from Monmouth. Lciclet-house, causeway.”—Coxe’s Mon. intro. *22. seated midway on a declivity which leads In the neighbourhood of Monmouth are from the extremity of the common of several antique mansions which deserve Monmouth, is remarkable for the beauty notice. About 1m. from the town, on of it’s situation. At this point, the moun- the 1. of the road to Ragland, is Wynastow- tains in the neighbourhood of Abergavcn- house, formerly the residence of a branch of ny assume a position ; the gentle swell of the Herbert family, conjectured to have the little Skyrrid is peculiarly elegant, been built about the reign of Henry 6. and the craggy ridge of the Great Skyrrid It’s situation, on a gentle eminence com- appears surmounted by the cone of the mauds many extensive views. There are Sugar loaf; below Monmouth stretches still rqmaining several original family por- along the banks of the Wye, beautifully I traits, particularly of the late mrs. Swin- embowered in trees, and backed by wood- nerton, by Romney. The old chapel be- ed eminences, above which towers the ! kinging to the mansion is now applied to bleak and rugged summit of the Little domestic use. Theoiven, situated a- Doward. While at Monmouth mr. bout lm. further w. to the n. of the road Ireland made an excursion to Raglan Cas- to Ragland, was once a splendid mansion tie. On quitting Monmouth he ascended built by Inigo Jones, which belonged to a considerable hill about lm. from the another scion from the Herbert stock, town, which affords a most luxuriant The position of the house and grounds is landscape. From this eminence, the rich delightful, watered by the meandering valley in which Monmouth is situated, and Trothy, and still exhibiting a profusion the beauties of the surrounding country, of rich woods. Tho’occupied as a farm- are highly illustrative of Gray’s opinion house, this mansion continues to shew of the charming situation of this place, many marks of it’s ancient grandeur, in which he rapturously describes as “ the the spacious and decorative style of the delight of his eyes and the very seat of apartments, in a noble staircase of oak, pleasure.” The distance to Raglan, by and it’s ornamented porch. Troy house, way of Winastow is 8m. [sec Raglan.] standing near the small river Trothy, with- Mr. Gilpin recommends the following in lm. s-e. of Monmouth, near the road to route to those inclined to make a tour Cjhepstow, wa9 the residence of another from Monmouth to the source of the of the prolific Herbert race. Part of the wye, and thence through the midland 821 MONMOUTH. 922 Counties of Wales. “ From Ross to Here¬ ford the great road leaves the river, which is scarcely seen ; but it may be pursued on foot, along it’s banks. From Here¬ ford, the road follows the course of the river to the Hay, winding along it’s n. banks. Six m. from Hereford is Foxley- After which the ruins of Bradwardine Cas¬ tle appear soon in view. At a bridge near them you cross the Wye, and traverse the s. side of the river. Leaving Whitney Bridge on the r. you still continue your course along the s. bank ; and soon come in view of the ruins of Clifford Castle, where tradition informs us, the celebrated Rosamond spent her early life. Soon af¬ ter you arrive at the Hay. If you have time for an excursion, you will find about half way between Hay and Abergavenny, the ruins of Llanthony Priory. Re¬ turning to Hay, you continue your rout to Buallt, still on the s. side of the river. Four miles beyond the Hay, stands Maes- lough-house; the situation is in it’s Jc.ind perhaps one of the finest in Wales. The river incirclcs a part of the grounds, at the distance of ^m. from the house. The banks are enriched with many objects ; a- rnong which ‘2 bridges, with winding wads, and the tower of Glasbury. Church, surrounded by wood, are conspicuous. A distant country equally inrichcd, fills the remote parts of the landscape, which is terminated by mountains. The bridge at Glasbury, in this view, is remarkably light and elegant, consisting of several arches. As you advance to Buallt the country grows more grand and picturesque. The valley of the Wye becomes more con¬ tracted, and the roads run at the bottom along the edge of the water. In this wild and inchanting country stands Llangocd, the house of John Macnamara, esq. A few m. beyond you reach Buallt, where you cross the Wye again and continue a- long the n. side of the river. The same grand scenery continues, with lofty banks, woody vales, a rocky channel, and a rapid stream. Soon after you come to the sulphureous springs of Llanydrindod, which you leave on the r. and crossing the Ithon, reach Rhaiadyr. Hence you be¬ gin to approach the source of the Wye, which becomes more and more insignifi¬ cant. JUangerig , at the distance of 12m. from Rhaiadyr, is the last village on the banks of the Wye. Soon after all inhabit¬ ancy ceases, and you begin to ascend the skirts of Plinlimmon. After a gradual rise of 10m. you arrive at the sources of the river. It is a singular circumstance that within a^m. of the well-head of the Wye, arises the Severn. As there is noth¬ ing in these inhospitable regions to detain you long, you will undoubtedly poon be inclined to return to Rhaiadyr. Hence Hafod will certainly form a powerful at¬ traction. Thence may be visited, at no great distance, Pont y Monach, Aberyst- with, or whatever other object (he travel¬ ler is inclined to pursue.” For an aq- count of Navigating the Wye to Chepstow, see the article Wye. Five miles on the road to Chepstow is the village of Trelcch, which is supposed to have derived it’s name from 3 druidic stones standing in a field adjoining the road near the church, They are placed upright, or rather,jnclipipg; of different heights, from 10 to 15 feet. By the na¬ tives they are called Harrold’s stones. In the village is an earthen mound 450 feet in diameter, encircled by a moat, and con¬ nected with extensive entrenchments j which is imagined to have been a roman work, and afterwards the site of a castle belonging to the earls of Clare. The vil¬ lage is also remarkable for a chalybeate well, of the nature of Tunbridge waters. Near the church, (which deserves to be noticed for the agreeable proportion of it’s gothic members and it’s handsome spire) is a pedestal with a sun-dial, supposed to be of high antiquity, yet probably not antetior to the 16th century. Upon one side of the pedestal are recorded the 3 ex¬ traordinary things for w hich this place is noted. On one side the 3 stones are re¬ presented in relief, with their measure¬ ments, i. e. 8, 10, and 14 feet high, above “ major saxjs,” beneath, “ hic fuit vic¬ tor haraldus.” Upon another side is re¬ presented a vault, the sculptor intended it undoubtedly for a tumulus; over it “ mac- NA MOLE;” below “oquothic sepul. ta.” The third represents the fountain, inscribed above “maxime fonte,” be¬ low “ LlOM. MAGP. PROBIT, OSTENDIT. - In this parish is a remarkable tumulus called Cryg y Ihyrn, being 60 paces in circumference and in height about 6 yards. It rises from an easy ascent and hollow upon the top. This heap is chiefly formed of small stones covered with turf, and f)23 MONMOUTH. 924 may properly be Called a carnedd. Upon er, upon a mound, which formed the the top is a large flat stone of an oval keep, the door and window apertures of form, about 3 yards long, and 12 inches which are circularly arched; but the ex¬ thick. Under it was found a cistvaen, or terior walls of the castle appear to have stone chest, 4 feet long, and 3 broad, com- been originally only furnished with oilcts posed of 7 stones, 2 at the end and one be- or chinks for shooting arrows through, hind. It is supposed to have been the Screnfrith Castle is certainly of british burial place or sepulchre of some british erection and probably as ancient as any in chief, before the roman conquest. From Wales. This castle is generally approach- this place the road soon ascends the De- ed from the turnpike road leading by faudon height, traverses a tract of forest Llandeilo Cresseney to Abergavenny at called Chepstow Park, and in the course of the Boot public house, 7m. from Mon¬ k's progress embraces several superb and mouth. This fortress is seldom visited by extensive views; in which the varieties travellers on account of the difficulty of of the Wye, of hanging woods, wild heathy access to it both for carriages and horses, mountains, and rich inclosures, rise in Screnfrith, Grosmont, and White Castles, succession. formerly defended the lordship of Over- On the road to Hereford a direction went; which extending from the Wye to may be taken to Grosmont. Passing through the Usk, nearly comprised the whole a charming country for 3m. on the r. is northern portion of Monmouthshire. This Perth}/-, a very ancient seat of the Herbert tract of country, with it’s castles, fell in¬ family. Of the castellated mansion, sur- to the hands of Brian Fitz Count, earl of rounded by a moat and two drawbridges, Hereford, who came over with the Con- few vestiges appear in the present dimin- querer; but it was afterwards seized by ished and patched up building; yet some Henry 3, and conferred on his favourite marks of former magnificence meet the Hubert de Burgh. On the disgrace of observer, in a long vaulted hall, with a that virtuous and able minister, the ca- music gallery at the end, a large gothic pricious monarch granted the 3 castles to window with stone compartments, and his son the earl of Lancaster; and, with the massive oak beams of a long passage. Caldecot Castle, they still remain annexed The extensive manors which attached to to the dutchy. The road to Grosmont Pethir are said to have extended as far as lies through tedious by-lanes, but the Ross. Pcrthir is the possession of John scenery is most retired and pleasing. On Powell Lorimor. Newcastle, situated on the r. the lively, and transparent Monnow this route, 5m. to the n-e. of Llanfair, de- serpentizes through woods and hollows, rives it’s name from a fortress once erect- On the 1. the Graig, a huge and solitary ed here, of which only a tumulus, sur- mountain, rears it’s towering sides. Gros- | rounded by a foss, about 3 feet in circum- mont Church is a large and handsome : ference remains. An ancient oak derives gothic structure, with a tower and spire, importance by being considered by these The village is now small but the large credulous villagers, as the rendezvous of causeways which diverge in different di- clfine spirits. It has, however, long been reckons, several feet high, and from 9 to hollow, and is quickly going to decay. A 12 feet broad, shew that it was once a ffynon fawr, or sacred fountain, at the place of considerable importance. The distance of £m. is also said to be under Distances on the direct great road are miraculous protection. Passing through IVelsh Newton, 3m. 3f. Idan Laudy, toll- the village and quitting the turnpike-road, bar, 2m. If. (On the 1. Treago, P. R. My- at the distance of 3m. Saenfrith Castle is ners, esq.) Wormlow Tump Inn, 3m. 7f. seen, situated on the banks of the Mon- (On the 1. Bryngwyn, capt. Phillips, and now, in a sequestered spot environed by the il leend, J. Richard Symonds, esq.) high hills. This fortress is of the simplest Cross in hand Tollgate, lm. 7f. (On the r. construction; it’s area, of a trapezium to Russ, 8jm.) Callow, Inn Guy’s Head, form, is merely surrounded by a curtain jjm. Red Hill, 2m. If. Cross the Wye to wall with circular towers, covering each Hereford, l|m. angle and a demi-turret projecting from On the Highway, the rev. Edmund the middle of one side. Near the centre Butcher has remarked, in his “ Journey of the area is a juliet, or high round tow- from Sidmouth to Chester,” that taking )S5 MONMOUTH. m ie road for one part of the figure the Wye among which is Troy, house, once the splen- nclosed a portion of country resembling n shape the Delta in Egypt. Leaving the vVye upon the r. and the Monnovv on the ., a chain of hills on each side shuts both hese rivers from the view, but the val- ies are rich and the slopes of many of the lills are clothed with wood. At the Oth mile cross the Garren and observe the iheltered vale through which the Monnow masses, till it pours it’s tributary waters nto the Wye about a mile below Goodrich ;astle. Pass the little village of St. Leon¬ ards, and proceed for upwards of 2m. on .he lower 1. hand slopes of Scudamore hill. Soon after opens on the 1, hand, the exten¬ sive and beautiful flat through which the Worme, directs it’s serpentine course to the Munnow. Parks, gentlemen’s seats, and villages ornament the picture. From Redhill descry the spire, towers, bridge, &c. of Hereford. In walking from Monmouth alonc the BANKS OF THE WYE TO TINTERN, pass over the Wye-bridge and pursue a rural foot-path turning with the course of the river, which lead opposite to Troy-house, on the opposite side of the river. Hence the vale contracts, the Wye enlarging and leading to delightful scenery. Redbrook presents a busy scene. The bustle of the iron works,, the noise of massy hammers, and the smoke which fills the vale, sus¬ pends, for a while the inspiration of pic¬ turesque scenery. Beyond are lower Redbrook’s tin works. About 3m. further on the r. appears the neglected house of Pilsun, humbled to the mere appendage of a farm. Beyond is seated Bix Weir, the mansion of gen. Rooke. The scenery a- round this spot is grand, the hills luxuri¬ antly mantled with wood, above which the castle and village of St. Briavel’s tow¬ ers supereminent. On leaving Bix Weir the path ascends and the views become enlarged; among these, Uandogo, a scat¬ tered village, placed upon the opposite de¬ clivity, is an uncommon spectacle. Turn off at Brook Weir, and take the regular path to Tintern. [See Wye.J The following route to Aberc avenny, is the Great Road. After quitting Mon¬ mouth pass the curious Old Bridge over the Munnow, with a gateway upon the middle. Ascending the hill, survey the scenery in the vicinity of the town. Many seats are advantageously planted round, did mansion of the dukes now inhabited by tenants. To Winastoie village and church, 2m. Dinastow and Dinaslow Court, 2m. (on the 1. Wm. Bosan- quet, esq.) Andros, 2m. Tregare and church 7f. (2m. s. of this place lies Ragland Castle.) In front appears the Blorenge, the Sugar Loaf, and Skyridd Fawr, moun¬ tains which continue in sight for several miles. The Black Mountains also appear, beyond which is placed the celebrated Llanthony Abbey. Bryngwyn and church, lm. 7f. (£m. further on the 1. to Chepstow, 16fm.; and ^m. beyond to the 1. to Usk , 5m. One m. to the r. lies Llan- arth-Court, J. Jones, esq. This handsome new house was built upon the site of an ancient one. Tho’ the estate supplies many commanding situations, mr. Jones has preferred the present calm scene, with a limited park view in front, to one more conspicuous.) The cottages here¬ abouts are snug, surrounded by orchards and gardens. Many of the peasants keep bees. Oxen are much used in agriculture, but they are yoked in the ancient barbar¬ ous manner. Pasture and natural grass far exceeds the quantity of arable and sown fields. Lime is the most common manure. Lammas wheat, peas, and beans, with a little barley are the principal crops In this track, not only the churches but the meanest cots, nay even the pigstyes, flare with whitewash. Land lets here for 20s. an acre. About 2m. on this road Clyiha-honse, W. Jones, esq. on the 1. the Castle a fanciful modern erection belonging to the same family. One m. beyond Cly- tha castle is Pont y Goitre, Thomas Hoop¬ er, esq. In proceeding to Abergavenny, the hills which appeared in front begin to present an opening, through which the Usk winds. JJangattuc Inn, 4£m. (on ttie r. Ltangutloc-house, rev. M. Lucas; and lm. on the r. is Uansaintfred, Edw. Frere, esq. jm. further, on the 1 . Penpergwin- house, rev. J. Lewis; and Am. further, on the 1. Llanover-house, Benj. Waddington, esq.) After passing Coldbrook-park, con. taining an assemblage of rural beauties, enter the charming vale in which Aber¬ gavenny and Crickhowel are situated. (On the 1. to Punt y Pool, 8ra. Coldbrook. house John Hanbury Williams, esq. on tlie r. and within ^ni. is Dwywyn Cottage, rrus. Middleton.) Approach the foot of the 9$7 MONMOUTH. MONMOUTHSHIRE. 92S Blorenge. The iron works on this moun¬ tain have-been found so productive, that in one instance the rent has been advanced, from it’s original 60?. to 5000/. per year. This mountain bounds the view on the 1. while the Sugar-Loaf, towering on the r. is presently hid by other hills of inferior magnitude. Abercavenny, l|m. A- nother road may be taken to Rockfield, 2m. (lm. from Rockfield on the r. is Per- thyr, the ancient seat of the Powels, now possessed by J. Powell Lorymor, esq.; and on the road from Rockfield, 2m. lm. to the s. are the small remains of Grace Dieu , once a small cistertian Abbey, founded in 1229 by John of Monmouth. A farm called Parker’s Due, corrupted from Parc ’ras Dieu, is the site of the o- riginal lodge belonging the park of Grace Dieu,. Some traces are apparent iu a few fragments of hewn stone walls, adjoining the dairy. A fine avenue of ancient elms, on the banks of the Trothy, leads to the remains of the Abbey, which consist of part of a bam, and a few detached frag¬ ments of walls. The meadows here are exceedingly rich with orchards which yield cider of the best quality. Llandeilo Cresseney the seat of Richard Lewis, esq. is a modern house built on the site of an ancient mansion of the Powells, and pleas¬ ingly situated in a rich undulating country, to the s. of the road, about half way to Abergavenny. The position commands an interesting prospect of the neighbour¬ ing country ; and in the home view the Church of Llandilo, with it’s high spire, forms a picturesque and leading object, 5|m. In an adjoining field belonging to a farm which was formerly the red deer park of Ragland Castle, is the site of Old Court, once the residence of sir David Gam, who rendered himself celebrated by his valourous conduct at the battle of Agin- court, and who is the Fluellen of Shak- speare’s Henry 5. About lm. on the n. of Llandilo are the ruins of Wlute Castle or Castle gywn from sir Gwyn ap Gwaith- foed, which are very considerable, crown¬ ing the summit of a ridgy eminence. Their figure is irregular, flanked by 6 cir¬ cular towers. One of them is 60 feet in height. They have ramparts and are pierced with oilets. Two advancing mas¬ sive towers guard the entrance, which was provided with a portcullis and draw¬ bridge, and rendered still more formidable by an uncommonly large outwork beyond the moat, which is from 14 to 18 feet deep, and from 40 to 70 broad. It’s an¬ tiquity appears to be at least coeval with the first settlement of the Normans in Gwent, if not more remote. D. Williams thinks it not improbable that Hameline dc Baladun obtained it, at the conquest of Upper Gwent. It was afterwards posses¬ sed by the family of Philpot, who probab¬ ly descended from Dyfnwall ap Cradock, lord of Upper Gwent, who married the daughter of Hameline. Llanfapley, -24m. Cefenpendager, 2%m. (jjm. on the r. is Werndu, the ancient seat of the Progers. lm. short of Abergavenny, on the r. is- Tu Du, late Wm. Dinwoody, esq. Aber¬ cavenny, 2Jm. To Grosmont, 11 miles, Barber. Returned from Grosmont to Monmouth, thence to Abergavenny, I6j miles, Barber. Down the Wye, to Goodrich Castle, 10 miles, Coxe. Along the Wye, Barber; Manby. To Chepstow, 15 miles, Wyndham. — Tintern Abbev, 12 miles, Skrine. — Abergavenny, 14 miles, Skrine. — Hereford, 18 miles. — Gloucester, 25 miles. — Usk, 10| miles. — Pont y Pool, 19 miles. — Raglan, Sj miles. MONMOUTHSHIRE, in point of fer¬ tility, picturesque scenery, and historic remains is a very interesting district. Un¬ der the british dynastry it was included under the name of Wales, which was di- vided into three sovereignties, and the people were distinguished by Ordovices, Dimetas, and Silures. At the time of the roman invasion Monmouthshire formed part of the Silurian territory, which in¬ cluded also the counties of Glamorgan, Brecknock, Radnor, and Hereford, inclos¬ ed by the rivers Severn, Teme, and Towy. The romans, in order to secure the con¬ quest of this part of the country were obliged to form a range of fortified posts. No less then five stations were erected in that portion of Siluria included in this county ; as at Caerwent, Caerleon, Aber¬ gavenny, Usk, and Monmouth. In the early and obscure times the history of Monmouthshire can be traced but with great difficulty. Sometimes it formed a detached district called Gwent, and at others included in Morganwg, which com- 929 MONMOUTHSHIRE. 930 prehended Glamorganshire, and part of Caermarthenshire. In the attempts of the Saxon monarchs to subjugate Wales, the Gwentians opposed the most formidable obstacles. Nor does it appear that they were ever completely conquered during the saxon period. Canute entered Gwent in 10:34, with a powerful army, for the purpose of enforcing submission, when he defeated Rytherch ap Jestin, prince of S. Wales. Such conquest proved but an assumption of arrogance for during the time of Edward the confessor, Harrold penetrated into the country, overcame Gryffidal ap Cynan, prince of N. Wales, placed a prince on the throne of S. Wales and compelled the inhabitants to swear feal¬ ty and pay tribute to the English crown. Esyllwg or Syllwg was an ancient appella¬ tion, interpreted “ a country abounding with beautiful views.” The inhabitants were called Esyllwyr or Syllwyr; which the Romans denominated Silures. The word Gwent has been derived by some from the latin Venta, as Caerwent was called Venta Silurum. Leland derives it from the british Guin or Guen, the god¬ dess of smiles. The respite produced by the norman conquest afforded the Welsh an opportunity of reasserting their independence. William 1, however a- dopted a new mode of curbing their re¬ sistance. He directed his barons to make incursions at their own expense, and gave them leave to hold the lands they conquered in caftite of the crown. These feudal tenures became petty royalties, the barons became despots, and entrenched in their fortified castles they dared to re¬ sist the reigning monarch, arrogating in¬ dependent sovereignty. Feuds and ani¬ mosities also arose between the barons marchers, who appealed to the king. Henry 8, abolished those petty govern¬ ments, and divided Wales into 12 coun¬ ties, adding Monmouthshire to those of England. Monmouthshire was however considered a welsh county till the time of Charles 2. The mountainous parts of this county contain some very ancient Churches, which may be referred to the british and saxon times, and some to the early norman era. These may be distin¬ guished by the circular arch and the crenellated, billeted, and other mouldings, which characterize these styles of build¬ ing. This county is bounded. on the n-e. 31 by Herefordshire, on the s-e by the estuary of the Severn, dividing it from the coun¬ ties of Glocester and Somerset, and on the w. by the counties of Brecon and Glamor¬ gan. The extent is 33tn. in length, 26 in breadth, and about 110 in circumference, comprising an area of 530 square miles, or 352,000 acres. It is divided into 6 hundreds, i. e. Scenfreth, Abergavenny, Wcntlog, Caldecot, Usk, and Raglan, in¬ cluding the towns of Monmouth, Caer- leon, Chepstow, Usk, Abergavenny, Newport, and Pontypool, and has 127 parishes. According to the returns made under the Population Act in 1811, the number of inhabited houses were 11,766, families, 12,543, inhabitants 62,127. This county is in the province of Canterbury, and except 6 parishes, in the diocese of Landaff; Welsh Bicknor, Dixon, and St. Mary’s in Monmouth are in the diocese of Hereford; and Oldcastlc, Llanthony, and Cwmjoy belong to St. Davids. It sends two Members to parliament, for the county, and one for the principal town ; two knights of the shire, and one burgess for the borough. Monmonth gives the title of Earl to the Mordaunt family; Aber¬ gavenny the same to that of Neville; Caerdiff gives the title of Baron to the Stewart family ; and the village of Raglan does a similar honour to the house of Som¬ erset. The principal Rivers are the Severn, Wye, Usk, and the Rumney ; be¬ sides the inferior streams of the Mon or Monnow, the Trothy, the Ebwy, the Avon, the Pill, and Kebby. Copious descriptions of the 3 first of these may be found in other parts of this work. [See the heads Wye, Usk, Llanidloes.] The Ilumncy rises in the lower part of Breck¬ nockshire, runs in a southerly direction, and forming the n-e. boundary of the County, falls into the Wye at Monmouth. The Ebzcy rises also in Brecknockshire, and passing under the Brecon mountain flows through the wild valley of Ebwy, and joined by another stream out of the Sorwy valley, falls into the estuary of the Usk below Newport. The Soil is of various kinds, but generally produc¬ tive and fertile. The peculiarity of the county arises from it’s wood-lands, forests, and chaces, some of which are of great extent, and do not appear to have been private property. The dimensions of those wood-lands and chaces have been, how- 931 MONMOUTHSHIRE. 932 ever, gradually and irregularly dininished by grants, and the intermixture of in¬ dustry and negligence. Nearly one third of the country is a rich plain, or moor, upon the shore of the Severn; one third consists of beautifully variegated ground, watered by considerable rivers, the hil¬ locks cultivated or woody; and one third assumes the mildest character of moun¬ tain, abounding with lovely vallies. The Roads in this county were formerly proverbially bad, but a considerable a- melioration has taken place in this de¬ partment ; and, excepting the natural in¬ equalities of surface, the principal turn¬ pike roads are as good as most in England, and directing posts are frequent. The Mountains harmonize with the beauti¬ ful and picturesque of the vallies, seldom indented or notched, never shapeless. The most remarkable arc the Skyrryd or St. Michael’s Mount, and the Sugar-loaf. The former is the most important object in the county, affording a back ground to numerous stations, varying it’s form in¬ definitely. The Sugar-loaf is of superior elevation, regular and beautiful; it’s out¬ line smooth and soft. The Blorenge en¬ ters into the composition of some beauti¬ ful landscapes ; but when viewed with the Skyrryd and Sugar loaf it’s importance is diminished. The other mountains which attract notice, are the Hatterel- Hills; the Graig, near Grosmont; Mynyth Llwyd or Grey-Hill, and Mynyth Aller- vig in the Chace ; and Mynyth y Crug, and Twyn Barlwn, in the hilly district. This is properly the country of landscapes. In other districts of our island extent excites admiration, but in Monmouth¬ shire all are home views ; even where the estuary of the Severn forms apart of the enchanting scene, the points of the hori¬ zon are the hills of Glocester and Somer¬ set. The course of the Wye is every where interesting, in some places sub- lime ; that of the Usk, fringed with woods or bounded by rich meadows, is a scene of perpetual beauty. The whole county forms but one exquisite landscape, of which the Bristol Channel is the fore¬ ground. Hills, covered with woods, which the roads beautifully limit or bold¬ ly climb ; vallies fertilized by streams, where smaller eminences seem to recline against the mountains; thickets endlessly diversified, where objects, as the travel¬ ler moves, seem perpetually to peep and retire; turrets rising in coverts, and ruin- ed arches almost buried within them j mutilated castles and mouldering abbeys | partially concealed; hamlets, churches, houses, cottages, and farms, are blended into one general and extensive scene, while the mountains of Glamorgan and Brecon, melt into a distant and magnifi¬ cent horizon. The Air is remarkably mild and temperate, except upon the mountainous ridges. The fogs have been observed to shift periodically, resting up¬ on the hills for a number of days, while the vallies enjoy a clear sunshine, and sud¬ denly the circumstances of both situations will change. Coals are found in many places, iron ore is abundant, and some lead has been discovered. There are many Quarries of brescia for millstones, and other valuable stone for building. In short, every necessary and convenience of life may be obtained in this prolific county. It is not indeed remarkable for it’s native breed of cattle or horses, but the finest mules in the kingdom are reared and worked in this county and that of Brecknock. They run from 14 to 16 hands high, and sell for 30 40 pounds each. Mr. Malkin says, that “ A great number of words, marked as obsolete in mr. Davies’s welsh and latin dictionary, printed in 1630, are to this day used in common conversation throughout Mon¬ mouthshire and Glamorgan. The former, tho’ reckoned an english county, comes the nearest of any to the ancient literary dialect. The works of Taliesin and others or the 5th and 6th century, downwards to I the 13th, are more readily understood in j Monmouthshire, than in any other part of Wales. The reason may be, that during the british monarchy after it’s emancipa¬ tion from the roman empire, the seat of j government was at Cacrleon. The Silurian i dialect then became that of the court or i government, and consequently the dialect i of literature. The numerous bards, from the 11th to the 14th century, all wrote in the Silurian dialect, on the principles of which all their verbs are inflected, and their phraseologies and idioms constructed. Tho’ Monmouthshire be made english by the authority of the powerful over the weak, it’s manners, opinions, language, virtues, and vices are as obstinately and decidedly welsh, as any part of the principality.” 933 MONTGOMERY. 931 From Vewtown, 9 miles, Pennant; Binglejr. garrison was turned out. A short time Llanfair, Montgom. 16 miles, Evans; skrine. a ft er lord Byron advanced, with 4000 sol- -Welsh-Pool, 8 miles, Wyndliam ; Warner. .. , diers, and compelled sir Thomas and his MONTGOMERY, or Trcf Faldwyn, army to make a precipitate retreat to Os- (Baldwyn’s Town) from Baldwyn, a lieu- westry, leaving lord Herbert with a very tenant of the marches, in the time of the few men. It was besieged by the king’s conqueror. Roger de Montgomery after- party; in the mean time Myddleton’s wards took the castle and town of Bald- army, with reinforcements, made a coun- wyn. The following year the Welsh took termarch to relieve the place. A general the castle by a coup de main. It was battle succeeded. The royal army was next repaired by Wm. Rufus, but the welsh 5000, the parliament 3000. After a dread¬ being unruly, he left Normandy, collect- ful conflict the parliamentarian army ob- ed a large army and went with a design tained a decisive victory. 500 were slain to chastise them. The welsh, however, and 1400 taken prisoners; the loss of the under Gryffydd ap Conan and the sons of victors was about 60 killed and 100 Bleddin ap Cynvyn, repulsed him, and wounded.—Whitelock, 104. This castle he returned to England, leaving a garrison met the fate of others; being dismantled only at Montgomery castle. During this by order of government. It stood upon absence the welsh besieged the castle, the extremity of an eminence on the n. and took it by storm, giving no quarter, side of the town, the projecting rock be- and levelled the fortress. At length the ing very high. It is said to have been a normans prevailed over this desperate majestic building. From what remains it race. The castle was then rebuilt by the is difficult to ascertain either it’s original earl of Shrewsbury, but in a century af- shape or extent. The present fragments terwards again destroyed. Llewellyn are a small part of a tower, at the s-w. made a treaty with Henry 3, but having corner, and a few low and broken walls, violated it, the latter marched a powerful The fortress had been defended by 4 deep army, and after a victorious campaign, he fosses, cutout of the solid rock. Not rebuilt the castle of Montgomery. When far from the castle, situated upon a hill, completed, he gave the custody of it to is a stupendous britisn post or fortified Hubert de Burgh, the welsh besieged it, camp. The approach is guarded by 4 but an english army came to it’s relief, deep ditches, with 2 or 3 entrances to- barbarously beheading the welsh, wher- wards the main work, where some fosses ever they met with them. Llewelyn ap run across the hill. At the bottom Jorwerth enraged at these indignities, col- is a smaller fortification, having in one lected numerous forces, and encamped part a raised artificial mount. This was near the castle. The governor being in- probably the site of the castle originally timidated, withdrew, when Llewelynhav- erected by Baldwyn, partaking of the nor¬ ing possession of the place, in retaliation, man manner. The town was once de- he put the garrison to the sword, and burnt fended by a wall, flanked with towers, the fortress. In 1268 a peace was con- and entered by 4 gates. The following eluded between the contending parties, is Leland’s description of this place writ- The castle appears to have been in the pos- ten in the 16th century. “The soil of session of Roger Mortimer, earl of March, the ground of the towne, is on a maync at the time of his decease, a. d. 1354, slaty rocke, and especially the parte of with the hundred of Chirbury. It passed the towne hillinge toward the castell, now into the royal house of York, and thence a late re-edified, whereby hathe been a to the crown. This fortress seems to have parke. Great ruines of the waullc yet been held by the ancestors of lord Herbert apere and the remains of 4 gates thus cal- of Chirbury, as stewards of the crown, led, Kedewen gate, Chirbury gate, Ar- and was the principal residence of the thur’s gate, and Kerry gate. Inthewaulle family.—Life of Lord Herbert, p. 5. Dur- yet remain broken tourets, of which the ing the civil wars it was garrisoned for white tower is the most notable.”—Itin. the king by lord Herbert, but on the ap- vii, 16. Montgomery has separate ju- proach of the army of the parliament, he risdiction, locally situate in the Cwmwd immediately surrendered, and by the trea- of Ystrad Marchell, Cantref of Ystlye, ty with sir Thomas Myddleton, the royal (now called the lower division of the 935 MONTGOMERY. 936 hundred of Montgomery) a rectory valued in the king's books at 17/. 4s. 4jd. Pat¬ ron, the king. The resident population of this parish, in 1801, was 972, the num¬ ber of houses 161. The Market is on Thursday. It lias no Fairs. Inn, The Dragon. The town sends one member to parliament, the bailiffs are the returning officers. It was incorporated in the reign of Henry 3, and is governed by a high-steward, 2 bailiffs, and 12 burgesses. Ilanydloes, Welshpool, and Llanfyllin, formerly ranked as contributary boroughs, but were disfranchised in 1728. Here is a small endowed School. The parish con¬ tains about 2000 acres of inclosed and cultivated land, and the Poor are main¬ tained in the house of industry, at Borden. The present town is small but pleasantly situated in the hollow of an eminence; it is clean, chiefly built with brick, and not inelegant. Having no trade, and not being a thoroughfare to any place of eminence, are circumstances which may account for the diminutive size of this county town. It is a place well adapted for those of small fortunes, who can be reconciled to re¬ tirement and wish to make a little proper¬ ty supply many necessary wants. The situation is inviting on account of being in a plentiful and delightfulcountry. From the hill above the town, is a fine, exten¬ sive, and rich view of the vale of Mont¬ gomery, finely bounded by the Salopian hills. On surveying this expanse, a very accomplished tourist is eloquent in de¬ scription. “ It was on a fine serene morn¬ ing in the beginning of September, that I happened to be at Montgomery. I was so much delighted with the extensive and varied prospects from the ca6tle, that I rested under the cool shade of one of it’s walls for nearly an hour, feasting my eyes with the lovely picture before me. The scene, which was calculated for almost arcadian felicity, was enlivened by the busy work of harvest, and the merry carol of the reapers floated cheeringly through the air.”—Bingley’s N. Wales, ii. The Church is a handsome cruciform structure, dedicated to St. Nicholas, containing an ancient monument to the memory of Rich. Herbert, esq. father of the celebrated lord Herbert of Chirbury, arid Magdalene his wife. Two recumbent figures are placed upon an altar tomb, under a magnificent canopy, once richly ornamented; and in front of the sarcophagus are effigies of their numerous progeny. The house call¬ ed Blackball once the hospitable residence of the family, stood at the bottom of the town ; a foss marks the spot; for it was consumed by fire. The lodge in Limore - park, at a short distance was enlarged on this occasion; which still shews a vener¬ able wooden front. It is one of the seats of lord Clive, now earl of Powis. The chivalrous, the gallant, the philosophic, and whimsical Edward Herbert, first baron of Chirbury, negociator, scholar, states¬ man, and soldier, appears to have been horn at Montgomery, in 1583. [See 266.] Near the site of the castle stands the coun¬ ty Jail a modern strong stone building. In the upper part of the town is placed the Guildhall, a handsome edifice, where the sessions are held alternately with Welsh¬ pool. Among the various privileges claimed by the burgesses of this place is the use of the Gogingstool, or Cucking- stool, perhaps a corruption of ducking- stool. The engine consisted of a long beam, or rafter, that moved upon a ful¬ crum, and extended towards the centre of a river or pond ; upon the end over the water was affixed a chair upon which the culprit was compelled to sit, with her feet naked. Scolds, strumpets, and dis¬ orderly women were by this means either exposed a certain time or immersed in the water. Near one of the remains of the towers of the Castle, grows the Potentiila argen- tia. Many pretty erections occupy the best places in the adjacent country, apparently inhabited by people of small independent fortunes, who have preferred this neigh¬ bourhood as a place of retirement. A- bout 5m. from Montgomery is the long mountain called Mijmjdd, or Cefn Digolt; celebrated for having been the spot where the liberty of the Welsh gave it’s expiring groan. Here was fought the last contest¬ ed battle between the hirelings of oppres¬ sion and the surviving heroes of the fallen principality. After the death of Llewel¬ yn, the northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army, and after several eminent victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knochin, and on the marches, they were here overthrown, in 1294, by the collected power of the lord marchers, after a long contested en- 937 938 MONTGOMERY. MONTGOMERYSHIRE. gagement. Cross the Severn, near Llunlufryn, a house of the Joneses. Turn a little out of the road to Powis Castle, situated upon an eminence on the 1. [See Welsh Pool ] An Act for the Montgomery canal was obtained 34 Geo. 3. It unites with a branch of the Ellesmere canal, very near Llanymynech, and there crosses the river Ternuiy, where it joins another branch of the Ellesmere Canal; and then goes by Gwern-felu, where a cut branches off to Guilsjield and Welsh Pool; and thence pro¬ ceeds nearly parallel with the Severn, by Berriew to Newlown in Montgomeryshire. This canal is 27m. long, besides the cuts, and the lockage is 225 feet. Quarries of lime-stone, free-stone, slate, &c. and mines of coal, lead, and other minerals, are found upon the borders of this canal. At the distance of about 2m. on the Shrewsbury road, stands Chirbury Priory, founded in the reign of king John for monks of the order of St. Bennet. The canons of this monastery had a grant of the tythes of Montgomery wood and of the mill there. Hubert de Burgh, was a benefac¬ tor to this priory ; but in the 9th of Edwavd 1, the Prior and Convent were removed to Snede. At it’s dissolution, during the 37tli of Henry S, the king granted to Edward Hopton and Elizabeth his wife, the house and land on which it stood, and after their deaths to their heirs for ever. During the 13th year of Elizabeth the rectory and par¬ sonage of Chirbury, belonging to the late priory, was given to augment the income of the grammar school of Shrewsbury. On the banks of the Camlet, at Marrington, in this parish, 5m. distant from Montgom¬ ery, grows Impatiens noli me tangere. To Clun, mr. Warner walked 5m. to a long ascent which conducted him to the summit of Castle-Kissing Hill, whence he had a grand view of the hills of Salop, and the rich vale of Montgomery. Here, also, he overlooked the town of Bishop’s Cas¬ tle ; Walcot and it’s adjoining grounds; with a considerable part of Herefordshire. Leaving the common road, he struck a- cross the downs to Clun. To Newtown, the road lies over a hill from Montgomery along a beautiful valley, enriched by the Severn, and meadows and pastures. The hills on each side are most¬ ly sprinkled with wood. The way to Bishop’s Castle lies through a rich country. On this road a re¬ trospective view of the remains of the cas¬ tle, the tower of the church, with trees concealing the inferior buildings, becomes very interesting. Pass the Court-House, now converted into that of a farm, and take the new road. Upon a summit, at the distance of 5m. from Montgomery, a delightful survey may be taken of the far distant mountainous country of Wales. A m. further is Red Court-house. On the r. Mellinglon. Within 2m. of Bishop’s-Cas- tle is an old camp called Bishop’s moat. To Welshpool, (A little way out of the town is a road to Berriew, 4m.) After cross¬ ing the river Camlet, l^m. Jm. further on the road. Camlet Bridge, [m. (to the 1. is a House of Industry, on the r. to Shrewsbury, 20m.) pass Vorden, 3Jm. (on the r. is ICanlcribba, major Davies, on the 1. Edderton-house. OfFas’s dyke runs al¬ most close to this road for lm. on the r. passing close to Nant Cribba. l^m. further cross the Severn, on the r. Glan- hafren, and §m. out of the road to the r. Leighton-hall. Within lm. of Pool, cross the Montgomery canal.) Pool, from For- den 5m. To Welsh-Pool, 8jm. Pennant; Binglev. — Newtown, SA miles, Evans; Wyndham. — Clun, 12 mites, Warner. — Bishop’s Castle, 9 miles. Mr. Skrine terminated his journey through N. Wales at this place. To Shrewsbury, 21 miles. /y//yyy /ry MONTGOMERYSHIRE, called by the Welsh, SirTre Faldwyn, the shire of Bald- vvyn, a lieutenant of the Marches, ap¬ pointed by the Conqueror to subjugate this part of the country. The name was afterwards changed to that of Montgom¬ ery, from Roger de Montgomery, the founder of the castle. Traces of roman settlements and roads, are marked in this county by numerous vestiges, and various coins, rings, metalic plates, &c. have been found near Pcnallt; a spot is still called Cefn Caen, i. e. the back part of the city. After the arrival of the saxons this portion of Cambria became a theatre of the most sanguinary scenes. Brochwel Yscithroc, prince of Powys, was entirely defeated by the saxons in the vicinity of Chester. Subsequently the borders form¬ ed a continual scene of rapine ; the mer- cians and powysians alternately making 939 MONTGOMERYSHIRE. 940 depredations into the dominions of the other, till the time of Offa, who drove the britons into the mountains, threw up a boundary rampart, and reduced the king¬ dom of Powys within the limits of that boundary. The sovereigns of Powis-land were compelled to remove from their an¬ cient residence at Pengwern or Shrews¬ bury, to Mathrafel, in the beautiful vale of Meifod. For an account of the lordships of Powys, and it’s divisions into shires and portions, with the succession of numer¬ ous families, see Wynne’s Hist, of Wales, p. 179. This county on the n. touches on Denbigh and Merioneth shires; on the w. on the latter and that of Cardigan ; on the s. upon Radnorshire, and on the e. upon Shropshire. It measures in length n. to s. from the extremities of Llangurig to Pistyl Rhaiadyr, 35m. and in breadth e. to w. from Montgomery to Machynlaeth, 30m.; it contains, according to Temple- man’s statement, 444,800 acres ; by com¬ putation 560,000; from Evans’s map the acreage appears to amount to 491,600. A- bout 60,000 of these are arable; 180,000 under pasturage; and about 250,000 waste, or in an uncultivated state. It is divided into 9 hundreds, viz. Llanfyllin.Dewddwr, Pool, Cawrse, Mathrafal, Machynllaeth, Llanydloes, Newtown, and Montgomery ; 47 parishes ; 7 market towns, viz. Mont¬ gomery, (a borough and county town), Welshpool, Llanfyllin, Llanfair, Mach¬ ynllaeth, Newtown, and Llanydloes. From the census of 1811 the houses amounted to 9349, the inhabitants to 51,933;viz. 25,373 males, and 26,558 females; 5164 as occu¬ pied in trade, and 6369 in agriculture ; re¬ turns 2 members to parliament, viz. one for the shire, and one for Montgomery; isinthe province of Canterbury, and the diocesses of St. Asaph, Bangor, and Hereford. Pow¬ ys castle gives the title of an earldom to that of Clive; and Montgomery to that of Herbert. The Climate of this county varies considerably owing to it’s irregu¬ larity of soil and surface. The midland, w. and s-w. parts are unfavourable to the growth of corn, from ungenial soil and elevation. The narrow vallies are produc¬ tive, and fine arable land lies on the e. side of the county, bordering on Shropshire. The Air of the hills is bleak, and in the vallies frequently boisterous, yet salubri¬ ous. The w. winds blow 9 months in the year, and the e. prevail the remaining 3. The strongest winds blow from the s- w. or n-w. See further Davis’s General View of the Agriculture of N. Wales, p. 7, &c. There are many orchards and gar¬ dens in the vales, abounding with fruit; yet all attempts to introduce them in the higher districts have proved abortive. The greater partof the county assumes a moun¬ tainous character with strong features of forbidding sterility. A line commenc¬ ing at Plinlimmon on the s-w. boundary of the district, and running n-w. between Llanbryn mair and Carno, to Llyn gwyddior lake; then to Bwlch y groes near Aran fowddwy, to Drws y nant, between Bala and Dolgellau ; and crossing the mountains to Llyn trywerin and Llyn morwynion; and terminating near the source of the valley at Fesliniog; may be called the Backbone of the counties of Montgomery and Meiri- onydd. A person might walk this line of 50m. extent, without crossing a rivulet; as it is the parting range of the e. and w. streams. A farm house upon this line, near Drws y nant, is so situated, that the rain water which falls on the w. side of the roof flows into Cardigan bay, at Barmouth, and that which falls on the e. side flows into the Irish sea at Chester-bar. The Freiddin or Bridden-hills form a striking group upon the e. side of the county; one of which, Moel y Golfa, stands most con¬ spicuous, and Cej'n y Castell not much in¬ ferior. Upon the s. the Biga mountains lying on the n. side of the valley above the Severn, and a collateral branch of the Plinlimmon ridge, form a line of high table land several miles in extent. The main Streams’ on the w. side of the ridge are, 1, the Dovey, passing through the val¬ ley of Machynllaeth ; 2, the Maw, water¬ ing the valley of Dolgellau; and 3, the Traeth-back river, flowing through the val¬ ley of Festiniog. Upon the e. side of the back-bone, are the sources of the Wye, Severn, Fyrnwy, Tanat, Rhaiadyr, Ceiriog, Dee, and other secondary streams. The s. vallies are more extensive, and consist of better soil than the n. The Wye rises up¬ on the s. side of Plinlimmon and taking an e. course, is joined by the Bcdw rivulet at Llangerrig, whence in a s-e. direction, it leaves the county. The Severn does not much assimilate with it’s mountainous or¬ igin, and it soon loses it's native rapidity, forming large vales, and generally buries itself within deep banks. It’s colour is 941 less transparent than that of the Wye, nor does it equal that river in picturesque beauty or variety of grand scenery, tho’ it is greatly superior in commercial import¬ ance. Even at Llanydloes it ceases to be a torrent, and thence forms a delightful valley, more like the extensive vales of England. The greatest fertility exists in this happy district, and agriculture and population, contribute to enrich it In¬ numerable villages spread beneath the hills, the handsome houses of Newtown adorn it’s banks, and the fragments of Montgomery castle start forward upon a high mount, sheltering the remains of a town once more considerable. As the Sev¬ ern inclines here to the n. the vale ex¬ pands greatly in front of the insulated hills of Bridden and Moelygolfa, while the river flows beneath the superb groves, lawns, and terraces of Powis Castle, to commence it’s early commercial import¬ ance at Welshpool.—Skrine’s Rivers, p. 223. The Fyrnwy, rising in the vicinity of Bwlch y groes, takes an e. direction to the town of Llanfair, whence it suddenly turns to the n-e., and at Llanymynech changes it’s course again, to join the Sev¬ ern near Llandrinio. The Tanat after hav¬ ing been joined by the Rhaiadyr, a little below the village of Llanrhaiadyr the lat¬ ter coming from the Berwyn mountains continues it’s course in a similar direction, then turns suddenly to the s. and becomes confluent with the Fyrnwy, near Llan- saintfraid ymmechen. These streams are remarkable for a great abundance and va¬ riety of fish. A Canal, forming a branch of the Ellesmere, penetrates a por¬ tion of this county. The line, subject to the controul of the Mongomeryshire canal company, commences near Llanymynech lime-works, whence there is an iron rail¬ way about 2|m. in extent, by which the limestone is conveyed to the boats. Hence it proceeds s. and is carried over the river Fyrnwy by means of an aqueduct, consist¬ ing of 5 arches, each 40 feet in the span, and 25 feet above the ordinary surface of the water. Thence passing Welshpool, it goes on to Garthmill, below Berltiew. The proposed plan was to have carried it to Newtown, but unforeseen accidents occur¬ red, and the fund for carrying it on became exhausted. It remains therefore a canal for the purpose of importing lime-stone and coal, and for exporting timber, grain. 942 and the prodpee of the dairy. The Soil and substrata vary. The substance of the vales being chiefly of an argillaceous, and and the mountains of a schistose nature. Limestone strataare rarely found, the prin¬ cipal are at Llanymynech, which is the ter¬ mination of a ridge, running from the n- w. of Anglesea through the counties of Caernarvon and Denbigh. Among the Natural Productions of this county the most important is lead. An ancient work of great note is situated at Craig y mwyn, near Pistyl Rhaiadyr. A considerable mine has been found at Dylifan to the w, of Llanbryn mair. At Esgair hir, on the borders of Cardiganshire, adjacent to a copper-mine, called Esgairfraith, is a lead mine, the ore of which contains much sil¬ ver. Successful trials have been made on the Berthlwyd estate near Llanydloes. But the finest source of wealth once existed at Uangynnog. It was discovered in 1692, and continued 40 years in a flourishing state, yielding about 4000 tons annually. It contained a solid rib 5 yarfls wide of clean ore, which was suddenly cut out by a bed of black schistus or shiver. It was expected to open again, but could never be found, though diligently sought for: The spirit of subterraneous research has a- gain been roused. A new company have taken these mines on lease, and have driv¬ en a draining level at a great expense. Slates are found in great abundance in tire vicinity of Uangynnog, obtained from a stupendous rock rising upon the n. side of the village. It is a fact that the strata of these and other quarries to the n. incline or dip towards the e. while in those to the s. the case is reversed. Lime, except the brown argillaceous sort, is a rare article in this part of the country. The more valu¬ able kind is carried from Porthywaen, and Llanymynech rocks, to the distance of 30 or 40m. Coal is a great desideratum in this county, and the scarcity is severely- felt. This necessary article in this county is found only at Coedwae on the borders of Salop where a few pits have been opened producing about 12 tons a day. The coal is of rapid combustion, consisting of pure carbon combined with a larger portion of maltha than asphalt. This county was once covered with trees, and is still well wooded. The Montgomeryshire oak has been preferred to any other for the use of the dock yards. In the year 179C, in the MONTGOMERYSHIRE. 913 MONTGOMERYSHIRE. 941 fall of FaenoT Parle the girth of one oak was 68 inches in circumference at the height of 73 feet, another measured 687 cubic feet, a third contained 525 feet, and many were from 400 to 450 feet each. The whole district has recently been stripped of it’s richest ornament, with little atten¬ tion to planting; these omissions of duty posterity will feel with indignation. To such general neglect there are some hon¬ ourable exceptions. The late Arthur Blay- ney, esq. of Cregynnog was peculiarly care¬ ful of his woods and attentive to the growth of useful timber. Were woods immediate¬ ly fenced after they are cleared of the tim¬ ber, the necessity of Planting would be superseded. The wood-lands belonging to lord Powys afford luxuriant demonstrations of the truth of this assertion. As a'planter the late Bell Lloyd, esq. of Bodfach, ap¬ pears to have held the first rank. His plan¬ tations here cover 61 acres, with 171,000 trees of different species, including 5000 oaks. In the parishes of Cerry and Llan- ddyssul he planted about 33,000. He raised 80,000 trees at Bodfach, all from seed, which he transplanted upon his own es¬ tates, and those of his uncle, the late sir Edward Lloyd. His son and successor, sir Edward Price Lloyd, pursues the same spirited design of improving the face of the country. He has ornamented the parishes of Llanfyllen and Treveglvvys with up¬ wards of 13,000 trees. Since the years 1798 and 1799, when this information was collected, hundreds of thousands of forest- trees have been additionally planted in different parts of the county. Fallow¬ ing, that opprobrium of georgical science, is still practised upon some of the best lands in the vales of the Fyrnwy and Chvyd. Upon the best soils the rotation of crops are, 1, turnips, (the land previ¬ ously well manured with dung); 2, barley; 3, clover; 4, wheat; 5, barley ; 6, clover; 7, wheat; 8, turnips. Many still pursue the old routine of oats, wheat, barley, rye, &c. without end, till the land is exhaust¬ ed, producing only a scanty crop of ordi- nary grasses, and unprofitable weeds. Rye will thrive upon soils not adapted for wheat; but upon limed lands it has failed, owing to the calcareous matter destroying the pabulum of the soil which should af¬ ford the required nourishment. Upon newly broken uplands, which has been paired, burnt, and the ashes spread, lime has a contrary effect, producing abundant crops of rye. Peas, vetches, turnips, buckwheat, clover, have been but partially adopted. In the e. part of the county hemp is much sown ; but being sown too often in succession, the crops are scanty. When matured, the plants are spread over the grass lands during the winter, till the lig¬ neous parts of the stalks become decayed. The filamentous portion is then dried, dres¬ sed, and disposed of to the spinner and weaver. Few cattle are fattened up¬ on the grass lands of Montgomeryshire. The genuine breed of this county are de¬ scribed as finch backed, short legged, deep in the carcase, and of a brindled colour. A sort originally from Devonshire has long legs, a light brown uniform colour, with smoky, or dun faces. These are fed in the vales of the Severn and Fyrnwy, and some are used for the plough. The Hereford¬ shire kind, with white faces, have been much introduced in the e. part of the coun¬ ty. The best Sheep are peculiar to the Cerry hills producing more perfect wool than the other breeds, which are debased by the coarse long hairs called kemps. Those sheep are distinguished by large wide cheeks, covered with wool, bunchy forehead, knotty, having no horns, white woolly legs, and a broad beaver-like tail. A second kind is black-faced, bred upon the mountainous ridge extending from Welshpool, in a s. direction, called the Lung Mountain, and other hills. The scab was unknown as a disease in Wales till introduced by a Dishley ram, in 1774. A Horse peculiar to the hilly parts of this county and that of Merioneth, is a small poney called merlyn. They are a hardy race, ranging at large over the mountains till they are 3 years old. They are driven from the hills, to fairs, like flocks of wild sheep. The prices they fetch is little, but in traversing the mountains, and climbing slippery ascents they are unrivalled. A hardy, active, and rather handsomer breed, seems to have been a cross between the merlyn and english horse; they are well adapted for the team upon mountainous farms. The vales of this county have been long noted for a peculiarly fine breed. The Improvements in this district consist, for the most part, in giving better tilth, in manuring more abundantly, and in bring¬ ing the operation of the plough closer to the hedges, and several gentlemen and )45 MONTGOMERYSHIRE. NANTPERIS. 946 tpulent farmers, have pursued the expen- ;ive improvements of draining, watering, kc. upon large scales. 42,725 acres have been enclosed in this county from the years 1775 to 1797 ; viz. in the parishes of Gobwill and Bachau 125 acres; Strata Marcellina, Tir y Mynerch’ and Deuddwr, 2,600; Bias Dinas and Mechain Iscoed, 1,000; Kedewain, Hopetown, and Over- gorddwr, 15,000, and Kerry, 20,000 acres. These were inclosed by acts of parliament. The freeholders of Crigion and Winning- ton have more wisely inclosed their com¬ mon by unanimous consent, without being subjected to the expense of an appli¬ cation to parliament. The Roads of Montgomeryshire are far from being good, from the want of hard stone. Granite, si- licious substances, limestone, &c. do not here abound. The substances used here are shale and slate, which pressure, fric¬ tion, and moisture soon reduce to their primitive clay. About 40 carding and severalspinningmachines havebeen erect¬ ed in different parts of the county. Sever¬ al manufactories of flannel are at New¬ town ; one near Her new ; one at Welshpool; one upon the Dulas stream near Machyn- llaeth, by mr Arthur Williams, for webs and flannels; another at Dolobran, Cm. w. of Welshpool, built in 1789, upon a branch of the Fyrnwy. The Montgomeryshire flannels are from 100 to 120, and some 132 yards long, and 7-8tbs of a yard wide ; in milling they shrink 6 inches in width. NANTPERIS, justly celebrated for it’s sublime and diversified scenery, is bound¬ ed by the base of Snowdon, Cefn cwm gafr, the Glyder fawr, and bach, and the two Lliders, all being ranked among the most considerable of the welsh mountains. The upper part is narrow, through which a rugged horse-path ascends by Gorpliwysfa, or the resting place, whence is a view of the valley which connects with those of Nant Hwynant and Capel Cerrig. Down the centre of this pass, called Cwmglus omhe blue vale, the rocks rise almost perpen¬ dicularly on each side. [See col. 720.] The character which this part of the valley bears is a desolated waste. Rocks seem piled upon rocks till their summits reach the clouds; within these are deep¬ ened hollows flanked by towering basaltic¬ shaped columns. In some places 3 or 4 of these ranges, rise one above the other. The traveller is interested at every step by the awfully impressive grandeur produc¬ ed by this scenery. Through this tremen¬ dous glen, which extends 4 miles, an al¬ pine torrent, issuing from the lakes above, foams and roars over huge masses of rock. Where the cwm opens to the n. is situated the village of Llaneeris, enlivened by some narrow verdant stripes, with a few trees, the laggering remnants of it’s pris¬ tine beauty. Where the mountain barrier divides, leaving an opening into Nant Cerrig, on the r. the lofty Shiabod rears his dark brown head, and on the 1. is the cataract lihaiadyr cwm dyli. It consists of two distinct waterfalls, formed by a rivulet, issuing from the alpine pool in the mountainsabovc, called LlynLlwydaw, which meeting the interruption of two rocky ledges, breaks into rugged foam and spray down their fronts, producing in rainy weather, a grand effect. Nant- beris, which for centuries was the field oP the most sanguinary contentions, is be¬ come a theatre for the display of art. Upon the declivity of the mountain, on the eastern side of the lakes, denominated Alll Du, or the dark cliff, is a large slate- quarry, the Property of Thomas Ashton Smith, esq. situated high among the rocks. The mode of conveying down the slates to the margin of the lakes, is singularly awkward. The cart, which carries about one ton of slates in winter, and two in summer, is drawn down a serpentine path by one horse in front; a loaded sledge fastened to the tail of the cart, checks it’s propensity to accelerated motion. The slates arc taken from the margin of the lake to the end of the lower one, whence they are conveyed by carts to Caernarfon, where they are shipped to Ireland and coastwise. Considerable quantities of slate are also taken on board at a small creek, opposite Mocl y don ferry, down to which a new road has been opened from the quarry over the mountains. Upon the w. side of the lakes, is another slate quarry called Cefndt 3, belonging a Caernarvon company. The quarries at Cilgywn in the parish of Llanllyfni are rather coarse in the grain, and of a strong red colour ; those of Llandegai are exceedingly smooth, and of a brilliant blue or dark grey; and the produce of Llanberis, are of an intermedi- 947 NANTPERIS. NANT FRANGON. 948 $ ate quality . This interesting little valley was called Adam de Francton. Probably contains also it’s mineral treasures. A it’s ancient name was Maes Caradoc, i.e. valuable copfjer-mine is situated upon the Caradoc’s plain or vale, as a farm situated side of the upper lake, about-girt. from the about the middle of it is still so called, village. Several levels have been driven This romantic and tremendous glen, is sit- into the side of the mountain, which is uated between Bangor and Capel Careg in composed chiefly of hard winstone, and Caernarvonshire, destitute of Wood, and home blende schistus. The ore, found in even of cultivation, except the narrow slip a matrix of quartx is a rich sulphate of of meadow which lies along it’s bottom, copper, of a fine yellow colour. The The fantastic piles of rocks which compose principal level is about 200 yards in length, the sides, rise abruptly from their base, 7 or 8 feet high, and 6 wide. At the ter- and stretch their barren points into the minationofthis is an immense lofty cavern, clouds. In 1685, part of a rock forming one whence ore has formerly been removed, of the impending cliffs, became so under- In this a shaft nearly 60 feet, is sunk to a mined by wind and rain, that loosing it’s metalicbed; and near the bottom another hold, it fell down in several immense 50 feet in depth extends to one below, masses, and in it’s passage down a steep The ore is procured by blasting the rock, and craggy cliff, dislodged some thousands and conveyed by small waggons, by a rail- of other stones. The largest piece of the road to the mouth; where women and falling rock continued it’s motion through children are employed in breaking the a small meadow and rested on the farther lumps and sorting them. This mineral side of the river Ogwen. The mountains enterprise was undertaken in 1763, and of the upper end of this vale form a scene discontinued. It was resumed by acorn- singularly grand; on each side, the hollow pany from Macclesfield. At present the appears guarded by a huge conical rock; concern is in the hands of mr. Thomas Trifaen on the r. and Eraick du on the 1. Wright of Nampwich. Belonging to the These with Glyder-bach and Glyderfawr, same leasehold proprietor is another mine, and some other mountains, fill up the dis. upon the ridge Clogwyn y Arddwy. These tance, and apparently close the vale. Near mines are wrought alternately; i. e. the this place bestde a little gothic cottage is a mountain mine during the summer, and small hone quarry. YTrifaen, the r.moun- that in the vale in winter. From Llanddiniolen, Bingley. - Llandegai, Pennant. tain, received it’s name from 3 tall stones standing in an upright position on it’s sum¬ mit, which from below had the exact re¬ semblance of 3 men. Of these only 2 re¬ main. These upright stones are seen also from the road near Llyn Ogwen, a tolerably NANT FRANGON, (properly Nant yr large pool, well stocked with trout, and Afangcwn, or the Beaver’s hollow,) from several other kinds of fish, where the an opinion that the river Ogwen which country begins to change it’s rough aspect runs through the vale, was frequented by and assume a character less mountainous, beavers. The existence of beavers an- which it retains till within 1 m. or two of ciently in Wales is confirmed by the laws Capel Curig, when it resumes it’s former of Hywel Dda which fix the price of the aspect.—Bingley’s Tour. Mr. Hutton de¬ skin of the Llostly dan, or the broad-tailed scribes his visit to this vale as follows, animal, at 120 pence. We have the authori- “A stranger to the country, to the language, ty of Giraldus Cambriensis of it’s being and almost to man, I returned from Nant found in the river Teifi in his time. This Gwynant, Slept at Capel Curig, and was animal has been seen in Nant Frangon in wandering over lord Penrhyn’s new road, the memory of man. See Owen’s Welsh towards Caernarvon. The cascades on my and English Dictionary, voce Avanc. Be- 1. were rolling down with violence, after low the farm-house called Blaen y Nant, heavy rain, when a sheet of water, 1 m. there are some ancient steps placed to long, and | wide, presented itself to view, cross the river called Sarn yr Afangc. Tra- which by the map, I knew must be Ogwen dition also says that this vale was inherited Pool. But what was my surprise, when by a person named Adam Frankon. The at the extremity of the pool, I instantly soldier who killed Llewelyn ap Gryffydd found myself upon a precipice 200 feet 49 NANT FRANGON. S50 gh,andina moment, a most beautiful tlley burst upon me of nearly 1 m. wide id 4 long; the river rushing down this recipice in several stages, and, winding ill in view, through this delightful valley, he rocks appeared tremendous, the moun- .ins sloping, and the verdure increasing ith the descent, to the bottom, where, if oetically inclined, I might say, “Nature it in majesty, adorned in her best robe of reen velvet.” When I had travelled lout 3m. along this sequestered valley, I iw four people endeavouring to repair a ate. I addressed one who appeared likely i understand English. He readily answer- d several questions respecting the road, ad other objects. “ My way, I am inform- d, sir, lies through Nant Frangon ; pray ow shall I know when I am in it?” You are in it now.” Over part of this ale impends Yr ala wen , it’s front torn in- i amazing gullies. The Traveller, further intent on ex- loringthe district around Nant Fran con, aay notice Y Gam or Carn, (a heap of tones,) being the next eminence below llyder fawr. These collections of stones re generally considered patriarchal monu- nents, yet some antiquaries contend that hey contain the bones of malefactors, 'here is on the pass of Bwlch y Ddeufaen, dose to the largest of the two pillars, a leap which was opened some years ago in earch of treasure, in which there is a large itone chest, which indicates that it has Jeen a sepulchral repository. A hollow, called Cwm Cywion, (the Chicken’s Cwm) probably from it’s abounding with grouse, and is warmly situated, divide Garn from another peaked hill, called Y Joel goch, (the red foel). In this cwm there is a small pool from which runs the brook call¬ ed AJon Gywion, (the chicken’s brook). Between Fuel goch and Clugwyn y Geifr, i. c. the goat’s precipice, there is a pass from Nant Frangon to Llanberis called Bwlch Breccan, probably frombrecon, i. e.moun¬ tains. In ascending this bwlch pass an ex¬ tensive hollow, called ( wm Bual , i. e. the buffalo’s cwm; probably front corn bual, a drinking horn. These cwms are the summer leys for horned cattle and moun¬ tain horses, while the surrounding cliffs are inhabited by sheep and goats. On the n. side of the upper Marchlyn is Camedd y FUiast, i. c. the heap or barrow of the grey¬ hound bitch. This may have been a place for watching. 1 he name may have been corrupted from Camedd y Filas, or fil-las, i. e. the heap of the great slaughter. At the foot of this hill is Marchlyn mawr, \. e. the horse lake, which is said to be very deep and well stored with trout. The stupen¬ dous cliffs of Lydir Fawr hang over it. The parishioners of Llandegai assert, that the line which bounds their parish on the Llanddeniolen side, runs through the middle of March lyn isa, or Marchlyn bach, i. e. the lower or the lesser horse lake, leaving the s. side in Llanddeniolen and the other in Llandegai, and thence straight up to the main top of Lider Fawr. The district of Nant Frangon abounds with an abun¬ dance of objects both of admiration as natural curiosities, and as subjects of re¬ search. The hills surrounding it, if they were diligently examined, would certain¬ ly be found to contain many valuable pro¬ ductions. A little below Blaen y Nant farm-house, there is at the foot of a high rock a large body of sulphuric matter. Be¬ fore we come to the farm called Pentre, we pass the foot of a hill of rubbish, now covered over with grass, which once slip¬ ped from the side of the hill above, and overwhelmed a house with a family in it, where they lie buried. A little below this heap of rubbish there is a spring of water sufficient in quantity to turn a mill. At the entrance of Cwm Bual above Maes Car - adoc farm-house, there is a slaty loose rock called by the neighbouring inhabitants Craig Sebon, i. e. Soap-rock, being greasy and slippery, like soap. Above this rock is an aperture calk d Cwlter yr Euriac- hod, supposed to be the work of hands, from Eurychod, i. e. goldsmiths, or gold- diggers. Eclow the Soap-rock, upon a clear fair spot of ground upon the declivi¬ ty of the hill, there is a hole, which for it’s smallness may be overlooked, but it’s depth was unknown; lately some of the interior part has fallen in. There was once a fort at the mouth of Nantfrangon, but the spot is not precisely known. There isa hill called Dinas, above (oetmor-niill where it probably stood. Some of the foundation walls of such a building may still be seen, tho’ a considerable part has been moved for the purposes of building both habitations and fences. The Ogwen foams at the base, and there is no approach to this hillock but on the w. side. Nant Frangon is considered by our coasting sat- 951 NANT FRANGON. 95 lors as -ffiolus’s magazine o[ storms, and is often called Cegin y Cythraul, i, e. the dev¬ il’s kitchen. It appears that slates have been dug up in this district from time im¬ memorial. Old slate quarries having fre¬ quently been met with around Llundegcii and Llanllcch'ul. Formerly the proprietors of the Penrhyn estate claimed one eighth part of the value of the slates according to the price they fetched at the water side. The quarries were then let at 20r. for each man yearly. About the year 1740, a larg¬ er slate than usual began to be obtained, which were called “ doubles,” the first small sort were named “singles.” The next size which was introduced was “ double doubles.” A still larger sort was obtained which doubled the last. General Warburton, then the proprietor, named the former “countesses” and the last he called “ladies.” In the year 1782lord Penrhyn began to open a spacious quarry. Instead of employing 80 people as formerly, he now employed about 600. But owing to the dis¬ astrous war with France, and to an impost of 20 per cent laid by government upon slate carried coastways, which has check¬ ed the spirit for building, in 1798 not more than 120 persons were employed. Lord Penrhyn some years previous to his death, which happened in Jan. 1808, had made great improvements in and about those works. An iron rail-road was made to Port Penrhyn wharf, in length 6m.; a saw¬ ing-mill erected; new kinds of slates were introduced called Queens, Dutchesses, Pa¬ tents, &c. The new-post road from Cer- nioge to Bangor-ferry, through the heart of the stupendous Arvonian Alos, passes close to the slate quarries, and shortens the road from Shrewsbury to Bangor at least 8m. Upon the summit of Moehjcci or Moel y Cri, is a great heap of stones. Cri means cry, or a great shout. [Dinas Dinllc, Dinas Dinorddwig, Moelycci, and Penmuen mawr, all garrisoned places, lie nearly in a line and in sight of each other.] Some think that it’s real name is Moely ci, i. e. the dog’s hill. Verdure is upon it all the year, and it is reckoned an excellent sheep pasture. Llanllechid parish is said to be the largest in Caernarvonshire. It’s me¬ dium admeasurement may be 3jm. in breadth and 8 in length. At least 4000 acres of it are common, to which every par¬ ishioner has an unlimited right of pastur¬ age. The church was originally built by Llechid, daughter of Ithel Hael, a noblt man of France. She was sister to saintTy gai. About lm. w. of the church stan the remains of an ancient mansion calle Cochwillun, much celebrated by the bard for hospitality. A little way s-e. of Liar llechid church is a hill called Moel Faba?. upon the top of which are some large heap of stones, apparently of a kind used fo building, it may probably have been watch tower in possession of one Fabiu or Fabianus. Upon the s-e. of this hill ar ruins of buildings and enclosures. At th n. end is a hollow, or chasm called Bwlc Llanyrchyn; and by some Ffus Rhufeiniaia i. e. the roman foss. It is about 200 yard in length, 30 in breadth at the top, and a bout 10 yards deep. Moelwnnion, i. e. thi fairies’ hill, is supposed to contain leadc I other ore. Yr Ariyg is a shivered rock from ar and rhyg, i. e. plowed land fo rye. Upon the s-w. side there are som remains of plowed ridges. The bottom o Cwm Caseg extends to the base of Carried f Llewelyn and the Elen. Out of the spring from the surrounding hills, but chiefly fron a small pool at the joining of Carnedt Llewelyn and the Elen, is formed the rive called Afon Gaseg, i. e. the mare’s river which falls into theOgwen at Pant y Ffryd las. The pasture in this hollow is abun. dant and rich, being well sheltered frorr the n. and e. winds. Upon the declivities of the hills, facing the s. are vestiges o buildings and remains of stone walls. Or the s. side of the Elen and Carnedd Llew¬ elyn, branches Cwm Pen Llafar, out o which issues the Llafar river, which forms a confluence with the Caseg at Gwaun y Gwial. This vale is well sheltered and produces excellent summer pasture. Coet- mor formerly laid an exclusive claim tc it’s pasturage which the tenants of Penrhyr did not allow. Cwm Cowlwyd lies deeply immured and encompassed by stupendous cliffs and craggy rocks, upon the e. side o! Carnedd Llewelyn, in the parish of Llan- rhochwyn, being the farm forming part o! Cowlwyd, probably from Caw, a man’s name, and lwyd, meaning gray or ancient. This is certainly one of the most solitary and romantic retreats that can be imagin¬ ed. The noble mountain of Carnedd Llew¬ elyn, was measured by sir Joseph Banks, from high water mark and found to be 1110 yards in height. Upon the summit is a large heap of loose stones, which may NANT FRANGON. NARBERTH. 951 s supposed to have been placed here by rderofsome chieftain of the name Llevv- lyn, but who he was is uncertain. Llcw- lyn ap Sitsyllt reigned a.d. 1015 to 1021 ; ■lewelyn ap Jorwerth reigned from a.d. 194 to 1240 ; Llewelyn ap GryfFydd, the rst welsh prince, from a.d. 1246 to 1282. 'he first resided much in this county ; the latter lived here chiefly, in their palace t Aher, near Bangor, and some say they ad a residence at Penrhyn in Llandegai. see further particulars under Llande- ai.] Upon the n. side of this mountain i attached a peaked hill called Yr Elen or Uam, i. e. a young fawn. In the bosom f this Elen, close to the pool at the head f the Caseg-river, there is a vast body of ulphur. The mountain of Carnedd Idafydd lies at a short distance s. from Car- ledd Llewelyn, and is thought to be near, y as high. There is a heap of stones up- >n the summit, apparently the ruins of a ;wylfa, i. e. a watch-place, made choice if probably by some chieftain named Da¬ dd, but which of the Davids cannot be as¬ certained. Davidap Owen Gwynedd reign¬ ed in the time of Henry 2, and married his lister, but was disinherited and slain by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, at Conwy. Llew¬ elyn ap Jorwerth had a son named David, by Joan, the daughter of king John j and a David ap Griffith claimed the sovereign¬ ty of Wales, after the death of Llewelyn ap Griffith, when the principality was in the power of the first Edward. This hill commands an extensive prospect into the vales. On the s-e. side of Carnedd Llew¬ elyn is the lake Ffynnon Ligzey, or the fountain of the Gvvy, containing plenty of trout. This reservoir and not what is call¬ ed Llyn Conwy is considered by many as the source of the Conwy river. V Bcn- ■ glog, i. e, the scull, may be so named from being the head or extremity of the range of hills to Conwy. Tradition says it was formerly called Hysfa, a word used and understood only in the mountains, mean¬ ing a green plat fit for pasture. It appears almost incredible that there was once a horse road to the summit, yet some parts are still visible, beginning at Ty-Gwyn in Nant Frangon, which ascends gradually to a considerable height. Veins of spar inter¬ mixed in some places with copper ore, may be seen in these rocks.—Williams’s Obs. on the Snowdon Mountains, 8vo., 1802. To Cnpel Curig, Bingley. To To Caernarvon, along the new road, Hutton, a miles. /-r r* r * r-r+f r-r r t From Llaugharne, 15 miles, Donovan j Evans. - Kilgerran, 16 miles, Warner. - Haverfordwest, 10 miles, Wyndham. - Carew Castle, 10 miles, Fenton. NARBERTH, in the hundred of the same name, in Pembrokeshire, is a small ancient town, situated on a rivulet run¬ ning into the Cleddeu. Since the estab¬ lishment of a daily mail-coach to Haver¬ fordwest, and the enclosure of it’s com¬ mon, the place has increased rapidly. In 1801 the houses in this parish were in number 340, the inhabitants 1531. The Fairs are held Mar. 21, June 4, July 5, Aug. 10, Sep. 26, and Dec. 11, for horses, cattle, sheep, &c. The Market-day is on Thursday. Inn, the White Hart. The ruins of the Castle, tho’ small, are interest¬ ing. From the outlines of it’s walls it seems to have been a large pile, extending upon a ridge towards the town. On the first introduction of the normans into Pembrokeshire, under Arnulph de Mont¬ gomery, this place fell in the partition to sir Stephen Perrott. Probably the castle was not built by him, but in the hurry of of his defensive establishment he content¬ ed himself with the temporary fortifica¬ tions upon the summit of that mountain ridge between Narberth and the village of Templeton, an elevated spot amid a deep forest, where slight vestiges of military works still appear. His son sir Andrew Perrott was the founder of the Church. He built also a castle and garrisoned it with the Flemings, who were new settlers. It’s succeeding possessors were the earl of March, in the time of Edward 3 ; Richard duke of York, heir to the last Roger earl of March. The duke of York granted it to the Bishop of St. David’s, and Griffith Nicholas, grandfather to sir Rhys ap Thom¬ as. Leland calls it “apratypile of old sir Reeses, given unto him by Henry 8. There is a poor village and by it a littel forest.” It was inhabited as late as 1657, by Richard Castell. In the 4th year of James 2, sir John Barlow obtained a pa¬ tent for holding the market and fairs, and taking tolls and customs. The manor, castle, and all privileges annexed to them, now belong to Nathaniel Phillipps, esq. of Slebech. The Church is a rectory in the gift of the crown. 955 NARBERTH. On the road to Haverfordwest cross the Abercwm, and pass through the village of Robeston IVathen, situated upon an emi¬ nence, lm. 7f. The Church is consolidat¬ ed with that of Narberth. It has a tower, like most of the churches built by the Nor¬ mans and Flemings. (On the r. is Sodslon- House, — James, esq. On the r. a road to Cardigan, 21m.) Descending from this village to Canaston-Bndge, cross the e. Cleddau, lm. If.and pursue the turnpike- road for a few hundred yards, turn to the r.'which leads to Ridgway, an elegant re¬ sidence, lately of J. H. Foley, esq. amid groves of his own planting. From this eminence the prospect is delightful; in front look down upon the woods of Canas- ton, Slebech, and Mynwear, with the rich farm of Canaslon, and from the lawn to the n. catch a view of the ruins of Llanliauaden Castle. In descending from Robeston to Canaston,this Castle is finely accompanied with a superb foreground of wood and wa¬ ter, and backed by the finely undulating line of the Presselly range of hills. The village is distant about 2m. It was the “ caput baroniae,” by which the bishops of St. David’s sit in parliament, on the r. of the road, situated upon a lofty ridge above the river Cledau, consisting of a few scat¬ tered houses. A little to the 1. on enter¬ ing it, in a meadow, are the remains of the hospitium, built and endowed by Thomas Beke, bishop of St. David’s, consisting of a detached building, which, tho’roofless, shews no symptoms of decay within. Turning short to the r. enter the village, passing the mansion of Wm. Skyrme, esq. The ruins of a magnificent and castellated episcopal palace that crowns the summit of a steep wooded hill, is just above the church! The Castle, tho’ seemingly placed upon the edge of a precipice, was moated, and approached by a draw-bridge, on the s. side. The grand entrance was by a gateway of a singular form, marked first by the arch to which the gate was hung, next by another arch much higher, and, lastly by another, still more project¬ ing at the extreme height of the wall. It lies between 2 large bastions ; that to the r. contains several rooms ; the uppermost has a stone vaulted roof, and is almost en¬ tire. The windows have a label moulding over them. The next bastion to the r. of these is an octagon, which seems separat¬ ed into two retiring apartments, each hav¬ ing it’s water-closet. The whole buildinj was of cut stone, and from the fragment of walls standing, seems to have been ex tensive and sumptuous, including a spaci ous area, in which are the remains o splendid apartments, and of bishop Vaugh an’s elegant Chapel. From the belt ofthi i grassy slope without the moat, upon thi edge of the hill, enjoy a most enchantin; prospect of the windings of the Cleddau through a luxuriantly wooded scene. O late years the Castle has been shamefulh plundered to supply materials forrepairin; the roads ! A large park once surroundet this castle. Thomas Beke is supposed tc have been the principal founder. Other residents have been bishop Hoton, abou 1383, bishop Vaughan, bishop John Gil bert, 1403, bishop Barlow, who though of nothing but enriching himself “ per fai et nefas,” stripped this castle of it’s lead, as well as the palace of St. David’s. Un¬ der the richly wooded precipitous steep upon which the castle stands, is the parish Church of Llanhauaden, in a narrow dell, upon the banks of the Cleddau, and shut in with woods. On looking up the river the bridge, the mill, the mansion of Talybont happily contribute in forming a beautiful landscape. The church more from it’s situa. tion than from it’s dimensions or architec¬ ture, becomes interesting A tower gives dignity to it’s exterior, and within a soli¬ tary old monument, under a plain canopy, bearing the recumbent effigy of a priest, well executed in Nolton stone, is said to be that of St. Hugo. The church is a vic¬ arage ; the tythes are held under lease for the chancellorship, to which it was annex¬ ed with the demesne of St. Cenox, by bp. Beke. St. Cenox was one of the residenc¬ es of Rhys Pritchard, who, upon the rocky mount near the house, often preached to an audience that no church could contain. The mansion of Talybont, almost facing the church, on the opposite hank of the river, belonging to John Meares, esq. was originally built and occupied by a family named Hawkwell, the confidential instru. ment of bishop Barlow’s rapacious prelacy. This house has been long deserted, yet be¬ ing too good to be pulled down is occu¬ pied by a tenant. Deviate to Colby once the residence of a branch of the Barlows of Slebech, whose daughter and heiress married the late sir William Hamilton. This property he settled by will on his !t| 11 III ft Et lit fl 4 ii i I NARBERTH. NEATH. 958 lephcw the right hon. Charles Greville. The ancient mansion has long since been aken down to make room for a farm house. (n a wild moor near this house several pieces of armour have been dug up. Wiston or Wiztown, lm. further n. is the ancient seat of the VVogans, a family once numerous and ramified, but now extinct. The Castle, placed upon a commanding situation, was of greatextent and strength; little more than a truncated ruin of the keep now remains. The present mansion nf Wiston, from the great thickness of it’s walls, and from the construction of an old gateway, appears to be very ancient. This fine estate and borough, contributary to Pembroke, is now the property by pur¬ chase, of lord Cawdor. The mansion is a large awkward pile, caused by ridiculous additions of new building which do not unite with the architecture of the old. From the front is an extensive prospect of the country around Milford-haven, to the s. and n. mountains may be seen from the ruined keep of the castle. The Church is marked by a small tower. A little to the r. is the mansion of Pontypark, embo¬ somed in wood, once belonging to a branch of the ancient family of Cilsant, and after many descents from Wm. Philipps, ‘2d son to sir Thomas Philipps of Picton Castle, became the inheritance of lady Milford, and.her sister mrs. Jane Philipps. Far¬ ther to the r. is Haythog, belonging to a- nother branch of the same family. On the same side leave Waletown, a villa with a church, which names the parish, and is part of the vast endowment of the com- mandery of Slebech, the gift of Walter de Wale. Pursuing the road, pass Midcounty, 2m. 3f.; Arnold's-hill, lm. 3f. ;|m.on the 1. seated on the river Cleddau, is Slebeck- hall, Nathaniel Phillips, esq.; 2m. on the r. is Wiston, lord Cawdor; ( Picton Castle lies not far from Slebeck.) Deep-lake, 6f. Scurry-hill, lm. 7f. At §m. pass the Mil¬ ford river ; and £m. further on the r. is the road to Cardigan, 25£m.; £m. beyond pass the IT. Cleddau, and enter Haverfordwest. The road to Carew lies first over a gra¬ dual ascent of hilly land, and then over a barren waste. This district abounds with inexhaustable coal mines. Approaching to Carew the traveller will be captivated by charming bursts of scenery and the va¬ garious branches of Milford Haven, a creek of which flows past the noble shell of Ca¬ rew Castle. To Tenby the road lies through a toler¬ ably wooded country, leaving the collier¬ ies in the vicinity of Sander’s-foot Bay, on the 1. into a district peopled by the de¬ scendants of the Flemish settlers. On the way to Cilcerran, mr. Wynd- ham passed close to the druidic circles men¬ tioned by Camden, on the Cilmaenlloyd heath. He pursued his route along the foot of the Craig Garw, one of the Percilly hills. Sir Richard Hoare, strongly recommends a ride to a picturesque valley in the neigh¬ bourhood of Narberth, watered by the riv¬ er Cleddau and crowned by the towers of Llanhauaden castle. To Carew, 8 miles, Donovan. — Tenby,7 miles, Evans; Warner. — Kilgerran,20 miles, Wyndham. — Haverfordwest, 10§ miles. — Pembroke, 12 miles. — Caermarthen, 23 miles. From Swansea, 6 miles, Wyndham; Malkin; Barber. - Britton Ferry, 3 miles, Donovan; Evans; Skrine; Warner. ■- Merthyr Tydfil, by way of Pont Neath Faughan, 25 miles. NEATH, the Nidum of Antoninus, is situated in a pleasing rectilinear valley in Glamorganshire. The number of houses in 1801, were 554, of inhabitants 2502. The Church is dedicated to St. Thomas the apostle ; the marquis of Bute, patron. The Markets are on Wednesday and Saturday. The Fairs are on Trinity Thursday, July 31, and Sep. 12. This is one of the con- tributary boroughs with CaerdifF, which sends one member to parliament. The Cbr- poraiion consists of a portrieve, 12 aider- men, a tecorder, and an unlimited num¬ ber of burgesses. The parish contains 300 acres of cultivated land. The petty Ses¬ sions for the hundred of Neath are holden here; and the quarter sessions on Tuesday and Wednesday after Thomas a Becket. A court of pleas is held every month. It was formerly of greater extent and importance than at present, the spirit of trade having not diffused itself in elegant buildings or well-paved streets. At the distance of lm. from the town are considerable cop¬ per-works. Principal Inns. Ship and Castle, and the Angel. The Neath river (which affords a good haven for small vessels) crossed by a stone bridge, is the boundary of that tract of 959 NEATII. 9G0 country called Gower ; it also formed the w. boundary of the lordship of Glamorgan, which anciently extended e. to the river Usk. The latter district fell under the do¬ minion of the Normans ; the circumstances whereof are detailed in the following ac¬ count of the castle. The Castle, now an inconsiderable ruin, was part of the domains of Jestyn ap Gwr- gunt, lord of Morganwg or Glamorgan. This chieftain having joined three others in a rebellion against Rhys ap Tcwdwr, prince of S. Wales, a.d. 1090, promised that, to make the union more binding, Ei- nion, one of the chiefs, should marry Jes- ton’s daughter, provided he procured as¬ sistance from the Normans to prosecute their hostilities against Rhys. Robert Fitzhammon, an Anglo-Norman chieftain, a near relation to the king of England, and a baron of the realm, was applied to, who selected 12adherants. An army in 1091, invaded S. Wales, and laid the country waste. Rhys, tho’ 90 years of age, met the assailants upon the black mountain near Brecon, and was slain in the battle. The confederates were successful. Jes¬ tyn kept his engagement with the Nor¬ mans, but neglected to fulfil his pledge to Einion, grew insolent in prosperity, and treated his fellow-traitor Einion with de¬ rision. Einion resented this faithless and ungrateful conduct, posted after the Nor¬ mans, and arrived at the sea-shore when they had already embarked. He waved his mantle as a signal, which they perceiv¬ ed, and immediately returned. On enquir¬ ing the cause of such extraordinary recall, Einion gave an account of the ill usage he had sustained, maintaining that a very easy conquest might be made of the country, especially as the neighbouring welsh princes despised Jestyn’s treachery too much to cause them to be of his party. The Normans perceiving a prospect of subdu¬ ing this country with ease, readily engag¬ ed in Einion’s project. Fitzhammon mus¬ tered his forces, and suddenly invaded and deprived Jestyn of his life and territory. He then divided the domain, reserving to himself the principal parts and the entire seigniority of the whole : he then gave the rest of the province to be held in subordi¬ nate fiefs, to the 12 knights who accom¬ panied him, leaving the rough and barren mountains to the share of Einion. It was necessary to support a dominion thus ac¬ quired by the iron arm of oppression : the first attention, therefore, of the conquer¬ ors were directed to rearing fortresses on their domains, and afterwards to the crea¬ tion of religious houses. In this manner were the lords marchers established in Wales; possessing, in all cases except the power, of granting pardons for treason, the rights of royalty. The lordship and castle of Neath were allotted to Richard de Gran¬ ville, brother to Fitzhammon, from whom descended the noble families of Granville, earls of Bath, Granville marquis of Buck¬ ingham, and lord Grenville. The ruins of Neath Abbey, or Abatty Glyn Nedd (the abbacy of the vale of Nedd), is one of the picturesque objects which enrich the district in which it stands, distant about §m. w. of the town, near the road leading from Swansea; whence the garb of antiquity which it wears, is too attractive not to excite the traveller to a closer examination of it’s beauties. This situation must have been delightful in former times, but now, not only the walls which remain, but every object around is impinged by the smoke of fires, continual¬ ly burning round it on every side ; so that a traveller approaching this vale at night, might imagine he was entering the do¬ minions of Pluto. The inexhaustible store of coals, with which the neighbourhood abounds, has been the cause of erecting large works for iron, the ore of which is brought from the upper part of the vale; and of forming very extensive smelting houses for the copper ore brought from Purys mountain, in Anglesea. With respect to the history of the foundation of this abbey perhaps no better account can be referred to than that contained in Tan¬ ner’s ‘ Notitia Monastica.” It was built by Richard de Grenville or Greenfield, one of Fitzhammon’s knights; the same who came about 1090 to assist Einion and Jestyn, against Rhys ap Tewdwr prince of S. Wales, in the reign of William Rufus. It was for cistercian monks, and dedi¬ cated to the holy Trinity. At the dissolu¬ tion of monasteries it’s revenues were valued at 150/. per annum. The abbey- house about the year 1650 formed an ad¬ mired seat of the Hobby’s family. This ruin is composed of rough stones, with lancet windows, which form the n. side of a quadrangle. The gates, hall, and gal¬ lery, still remain, having in front of a con- I )6l NEATH. 062 gnousroom, the arms of England, and of ohn of Gaunt, on stone. In this abbey the nfortunatc Edward 2, had sheltered him- elf when he was taken. The ichnography f the old church may easily be traced. Vmong the dingy inhabitants of this ab- iey, mr. Barber met with an old woman vho undertook to give him an account of he ruin. “ She shewed us,” says he, “ the rnn’s dining-room, the roof of which was ntire, supported by saxon, or rather early lorman pillars and arches. From the re- ectory we passed to what was once the lormitory, and were shewn a nauseous lungcon, in which, as the legend of the ibbcy relates, offending nuns were wont o be confined,” In a field nearly opposite to the ruins of he abbey lies a well sculptured effigy of in abbot, holding the model of a church in lis hand, intended probably to perpetuate he memory of the person who built or re¬ tired the church. In this neighbourhood ire some very extensive works for the manufacture of iron and copper. Two im¬ mense blast furnaces belonging to messrs. Fox and Co- produce 30 tons of pig iron every week. Another blast furnace and foundery is the property of messrs. Raby and Co. Two considerable copper works belong to Roe and Co., of Macclesfield, and the other to the Mines Royal Com pany. A great chemical work is carried on by messrs. Bewick and Horne, in which are produced sugar of lead, vitriol, and the purest alum in the kingdom. In addition to these sources of wealth, Neath has a very productive coalery in it’s neighbour¬ hood which gives incalculable advantage to all it’s manufactures. A Canal also, running 12m. up a beautiful valley, brings to this part, all it’s produce. The act for this canal was obtained in 1790, passing from Neath to Furno Faughan, a district abounding in coals, lime-stone, iron-ore, copper, lead, &c. At a short distance from Neath is the Knoll, a castellated seat of the late sir Herbert Mackworth, occupying the summit of a hill at the termination of a noble lawn. The fine views which this elevation commands, encompassed by hanging woods and extensive plantations, shady walks and picturesque cascades, render it a place deservedly attractive. Access may be had to this domain at the gardener’s house, called the Little Knoll; and his wife, will not only afford the ac- 32 commodation of a neat apartment, but provide dinner or tea, if solicited. An aw¬ ful circumstance strikes every beholder visiting this mansion, that this lovely place has closed it’s gates upon it’s hereditary possessor, the estate being gone out of the Mackworth family. Every apartment is unfurnished, uninhabited, and forsaken; no minstrel strikes the harp, no bard cele¬ brates the heroic actions ol it’s ancient owners; the dance, the feast, and the song are no more. Nay, the fish ponds, the bowling-green, the benches, the bason of gold fish, the velvet walks, shady alcoves, shrubberies embellished with the chocest flowers, the murmuring water-falls ; all these have perished, as if they had never been. The castle and banqueting-room are 2m. beyond the Knoll, seated on an emi¬ nence, where an old woman furnishes tea. Near Neath is the small neat church of Ca- doxton or St. Cadoc’s Town, where is a sin¬ gular epitaph ; not less than the whole pedigree of a family of Williams. “ As long as a welsh pedigree” is an old pro¬ verb ; which is completely verified in the present instance, for a copy of it in mr, Evans’s Tour occupies four wide 8vo. pag¬ es. Uychwyr is a poor village 8m. distant from Neath, situated on a river of the same name, which is fordable at low water. The outward walls of a square castle remain, lortified by a treble trench, but destroyed by Rhys ap Gruffydd in 1215. On the N- e. side of the town, is one of the highest mountains in S. Wales, called Ccfyn-y- Brynn, on the n-w. point of which is a vast stone, of alabaster, 20 tons weight, sup¬ ported by 6 or 7 others, about 4 feet high, set circularly. This stupendous cromlech is called Arthur’s Stone, from the name of the hero who is supposed to haveerected it. In the way to Swansea, cross the Neath river; on the r. Court-Herbert, — Williams, esq. cross the Clcdach river, on the 1. Neath Abbey, ^m. Leave some copper- works on the I. cross a brook which falls into Crumlin Morass, at a house called Wern-goch ; near the 4th mile at a short dis¬ tance on the r. is Gwern Llwynwhyth, J. Smith, esq. and Birch-grove, T. Morgan, esq. grti. further on the 1. is the village of Llansamlet, at the 5th m. cross the Tawe, t o Morriston. [see Swansea.] In advanc¬ ing to the last place, a beautiful display of landscape opens to view. A bold obtru¬ sive hill lies in front, obscured by smoke, 963 NEATH. 864 5 and studded with cottages. On the summit Mclincourt. ['See Swansea.] Here mr- \i of the hill is mr. Morris’s elegant villa, Warner forded the river and continued a- surrounded by trees. At Llandwr is a stu- long the canal side for 3 or 4m. At the pendous steam engine erected for the pur- distance of 10m. from Neath he passed a pose of draining the water from a valuable productive coalery, and shortly after Aber- mine. This machine brings up water at pergwtn, the seat of mrs. Aubrey, behind the rate of 78,000 gallons in an hour. It whose house is an iron-stone quarry, be- is said to have cost between 4 and 5,00(V. longing to the iron furnace company at The Swansea canal is crossed 3 times from Neath. Passing on £m. he crossed a rail- Morriston. road, and was afterwards mueh struck On the road to Britton Ferry, having with the contour of the mountain risingon passed the tufted hills of theKnoll,asingle the n-e. called Craig-y-Llyn, the rock of stone monument occurs, called Y maen the lake, referring to a pool of water in Llythyrog, which may be accounted one of one of it’s cwms : he then arrived at Pont the remotest relics of antiquity. It’s in- NeathFaubhan. This place may easily scription has been read as follows : Bodva- be visited from Neath, as it lies in the cus hie jacet filius Catotis Irni pronepos direct road to Brecon. “ It’s surround- aeternali domo.” This is a massive para- ing scenery is so interesting” saysmr. Mal- lellopiped, upon an eminence to the 1.: kin, “ that those who explore the celebrat- another immediately beyond appears in a ed vale of Neath should not rest satisfied field close to the road on the r. Afterwards without committing themselves to the dis- is seen the Eagle’s Bush, a beautiful resi- comforts of the Angel Inn, for one night, dence situated on high grounds, and the that they may devote the following day to rich hanging woods and open groves of ranging over the beauties of the neigh- Britton-ferry attract considerable interest, bourhood.” clothing the charming domain of lord Ver- From Neath to Brecon, the distances non. are to Newbridge, 6m. Aherpergwm, 3m. (on There is a way to Bridgend, over a the r. Aberpergwm-house, Rees Williams, grandly mountainous country, through the esq.) Pontneatk-Faughan, 3gtn. (on the 1. parish of Llangeinor, where there are some Blaensenny.honse, D. Morgan, esq. Cross i very curious caves of great extent. This the Parthin river. Ystradfellte, 4£m. A track may be readily traced in Yates’s 4 mountainous district gives existence to the sheets map of Glamorganshire, but it re- Taffrixe.’c on the r. and the Senny river on mains to be explored by tourists. Pass the 1. The Tre Beddw mountain rises on Melincrylhan, to Cringell, W. Davies, 2m. the r. Near Brecon are roads on the 1. to cross the Afon Fuchan at Esail Fach, lm. Llangadock, 23m. and Llandofery, 19m.; the summit of MoclFynytlia, being on the on the r. to Caerdiff, 42Jm. Cross the Usk r., cross the Afon at Pontrhyd y Fen, lm. to Brecon. On the way to Brecon continue with Mynydd Bychan, on the r. a track might be pursued which has per- for 2m.; proceed to LLangonoyd, 4m. and haps never been taken into the route of on the borders of the Llynfi river to Bridg- any tourist. Cross the Neath canal and end, 7m. making the whole distance 17m. river leaving Court Herbert, — Williams, taking by the way Tondu, J. Nichols, esq.; esq. to the 1. C'adoxton juxta Nealk, lm. Pcnglan, and Cowtcolman, Wm. Rees, esq. Turn to the 1. without crossing the Dylas When mr. Warner left the Knoll he pur- river, leaving a forge on the r. Aberdillis sued the canal for 2m. till he reached Aber- mill and cascade, lm. (if the Dylias be dillis Forge. Soon after which occurred the crossed, see on the banks of the Neath, pleasing cascade of Aberdillis mill. A lit- lm. out of the way, a rolling mill, and tie further an artificial curiosity may be Ynysygerum, the residence of — Llewcl- examined ; namely, the astonishing opera- yn, esq.) Hirwaen Fawr, — Williams, esq. tions of machines at the tin-plate works of Glyn Rygoes, lm. Cross the Dylias, where Inysygewrn. Melin-court is a romantic vil- on the 1. is Geliy Gated, R. Bevan, esq. lage 5m. from Neath, [see Swansea.] ChapelCroynant. Recross the Dylias, lm. where there is a blast furnace, a finery, Cross the Tawe river, 2m. (On the r. Yn. and foundery, upon an improved and stu- iscedwin, R. Ambrey, esq.) Continue with pendous plan. At a short distance from the Swansea canal on the 1. and close to these works is the celebrated cascade of the Tawe river on the r. Pass a furnace 965 NEATH. 966 to Ystradgynlais, 1m. The vale of Gunleus ap Glewissig, prince of Gwent and father of Saint Cattwc, who married Gwladis, one of the daughters of Brychan. The church is low, dark, and small. It consists of a nave and chancel only; flagged and seated, but not ceiled. Across the middle of the aisle is a small gallery, erected in 1734. A plain white monument in the chancel bears the names of Richard, Chris¬ topher, and John Portrey. Near the com¬ munion rails, upon a black stone is re¬ corded Morgan Awbrey, of Yniskedwin, esq. interred the 19th June 1648, aged 29, with some verses bad enough “ to raise a dead man from his grave, or fire with red resentment the wan cheek.” The first 4 lines may serve as a specimen. This marble may look sad and well it may, being fixed thus for to display a doleful fate which did befall the people here in generatl. A brook called Graidd falls into the Tawe at Ystradgynlais, and midway between the Tawe and Twrch rivers is Ynisced- wyn Awbrey, upon the banks of the Swan¬ sea canal; once the patrimony or acqui¬ sition of Gruffith Gwyr or Griffith of Gow¬ er, it is now the inheritance of the rev. Fleming Gough rector of Ystridgynlais. 1 3 or 4m. n. upon the Llech river is Coel- bran chapel, which seems to have been an¬ ciently a private oratory, erected by one of the Herberts of Cll y bebil. The present fabric was rebuilt in 1799, at the expense of mr. Walter Price of Glynllech, who pos¬ sesses 5 out of 7 tenements of which the hamlet consists. There is an ancient in¬ scription upon a stone covering, to the memory of John Herbert, who died Jan. 7, 1601. There is a Sam Helen which runs along a high ridge or cefn, separating the parish of Ystradgynlais from Ystrad- fellte and Cadvxtone. Upon the hills ad¬ joining Llywel and Carmarthenshire, seve¬ ral Carneddau and the remains of 2 or 3 small british encampments may be seen upon the s-e. of these mountains. Pro¬ ceeding up the vale, this range of moun¬ tains is opposed by another upon the s. side of the Tawe, in some places resembling a mural fortification. In this natural wall, near the head of the valley of Ystradgyn¬ lais, or Glyntawe, as it is frequently called, is a hermitage. It was in this cell that Gun¬ leus, prince of Glewissig, is said to have died in the arms of his son Cattwc or Ca- docus. It is about 6 feet high, flat at top, and 3 or 4 yards square. Upon the n. of the Tawe, a little below the fall of the Tawney is a rock called Daren yr ogof, or the rock of the cave, from this springs a very strong stream, but not equal in quan¬ tity to the spring at Ogmore in Glamorgan¬ shire. Follow the Tawe 2m. downwards, then cross s. to the Llech or Llechog, (the stony) a small river between the mansion of Glynllech and Coelbren chapel, “a scene occurs,” says mr. Jones, “which mocks description ; it is the waterfall call¬ ed ’Sgwd yr hen rhyd, in comparison of which the falls of the Hepste and Pyrddin are mill-spouts. This little mountaiu stream is seen only to advantage when swelled by rain. For some space after it’s rise it runs over a bed of naked rocks, till it crosses a road from Ystradfellte to Glyn¬ llech and the vale of Ystradgynlais. After passing w. it is suddenly lost, and the tra¬ veller is left to observe a woody glen sweep¬ ing towards the Tawe, but following the course of the river he will be astonished. The stream is first almost split into foam for a few yards over a rock which inter¬ rupts it’s descent, after which it assumes a more compact form and falls perpendicu¬ larly in one unbroken sheet of water, up¬ wards of 90 feet; it then runs concealed by banks and trees, in a semicircular direc¬ tion to the Tawe.” From Ystradgyn¬ lais to where the road crosses the Tawe river is 7tn. (2m. further a road diverges to the 1. to Rhyd y briew, 7m. 3m. be¬ yond is a road to the 1. to Dcfynoch, 4m. lm.to the 1. where this road diverges is Llanilid Chapel, from saint Hid, who Came into Britain with Bran Fendiged, about the year 70. 3m. further cross the Scnni river. Cross the Camtais, lm. (On the 1. lm Illtkl chapel, a little beyond where the road to Pont nedd Fauckan diverges on the r ) Brecon, 7m. The turnpike road to Llanelly and Kidwelly from Neath, is to Uansamlet, 2Jm. Cross the Tawe, which bends on the 1. to the sea. A road to the 1. 4Jm. to Swansea. Cross the Swansea canal, l.lan- gefelach, 3jm. Corse I non, 3m. i f. Pontar- ddylais, 4m. Cross the Llwghor, enter Car¬ marthenshire, svhere a road to Ll andeilo Fawr, 14m. is on the r. and to Caermar- then, 17^m., Llanelly, 6m. Kidwelly, 9m. Sir R. Hoare says, that there is along 967 NEATH. NEFYN. extent of the roman causeway, leading from the station of Nidus or Neath, to that of the Gaer near Brecon, which is visible. While at Neath, mr. Wyndham made an excursion to the Knoll and to the fall of the Cleddeu at Melincourt. [see Swansea.] From Neath he crossed over the dreary mountain of Bettus, then joined the road from Swansea, and descended into Caer- marthenshire. Mr. Webb recommends tourists to pass from Neath to Merthyr Tydfil as an in¬ teresting and pleasant road, and thence to Pont Neath Faughan, not forgetting the waterfall on the river Meltha by the way. Mr. Davis of Cringell, near Neath, has undertaken a history of Glamorganshire. To Britton Ferry, 1 5 miles, Malkin; Barber. —• Swansea, 9 miles, Skrine; Evans ; Donovan. — Brecon, a circuitous route of 48 miles; the direct road is 30 miles: — Llandeilo Fawr, through Llanbedr, 22 miles, Wyndham. — Llanelly, 20 miles. — Cowbridge, 25 miles. — Caerdiff, 37 miles. NEFYN, in Caernarvonshire, is a small town in the hundred of Dinlleyn, contain¬ ing 242 houses and 1028 inhabitants; has a weekly market on Saturdays, and an¬ nual fairs on April 4, Saturday before Whit¬ suntide, Aug. 25, and Sep. 18, but is at present a very unimportant place. Ed¬ ward, the conqueror of Wales, after a tri¬ umphal revel to celebrate his seizin of Wales, upon the .summit of Snowdon, ad¬ journed to conclude the ebullitions of joy for victory, by solemn rites upon the plains of Nefyn. After the manner of Arthur he instituted a divenisement formed of tilts, tournaments, and all the paraphernalia of the Round Table. The concourse on this occasion was prodigious ; the chief nobili¬ ty of England, and many foreigners of dis¬ tinction were present at this proud but dis¬ graceful festival. About l^m. s. from Nefyn, upon the shore, is Porth yr Llyn, situated near a fine sandy bay, and defend¬ ed from the strong w. winds by a narrow head-land, with it’s promontory jutting far out to sea. This is conjectured to have been a port frequented by the romans, as there are vestiges of strong entrenchments still visible in the vicinity. Some time since a scheme was formed of improving this un¬ frequented portion of the country, by bring- NEWBOROUGH. 068 ing part of the great road from London to Ireland, through it, by a new line, from Merionethshire across the Traeth mawr, and forming this port the rendezvous for the packet vessels, instead of Holyhead. For this purpose an act was passed in the I year 1806, to erect a pier, and other neces¬ sary works, and incorporating a company for raising money, collecting rates, &c., but on a subsequent application to parlia¬ ment for pecuniary assistance, a denial was given, and the work, in consequence, has not been performed. Four miles s-w. from Nefyn is Brynodol the seat of John Griffith, esq. a respectable mansion, situated upon an eminence, com¬ manding a most extensive view of a flat woodless tract of country, bounded on one I side by a range of mountains, among which Boduan and Cam Madryn rise nobly in the foreground, and beyond these the whole Snowdonian chain ranges in majestic gran¬ deur. lm. s. of this place lies Cefn Am- wick, an old seat belonging to the hon, 1 mrs. Finch, where is a large Cromlech, 1 called Coeton Arthur. In the contiguous : parish of Llanjestin, various roman urns have been discovered, at different times. 1 About 2m. further s., nearer the coast, is Llangynodol. The church appears to be very ancient, for upon a column is the fol¬ lowing inscription. J. GWEN HOEDL JACET HIC 750. This was a holy lady, patroness of the church. Upon another column, H.EC JEDES ^.dificata est, a.d. m.. The churches are very numerous in this part of the country. To Pwllheti, 6 miles. NEWBOROUGH, or Rhos Hir, or Rh&S aur, in the hundred of Menai, in the coun¬ ty of Anglesea, is a discharged rectory, the lord Chancellor, patron. The Market-day is Tuesday. The Fairs are held May 12, Aug. 10, Nov. 12. The parish contains 1000 acres of land. It is situated upon the river Briant. The magistrates are a mayor, two bailiffs, and a recorder, who keep re¬ gular courts. The corporation is rich, for 391 acres of excellent land-belongs to it, and a rabbit warren which letted in 1 SI 1 for 23 1. It gives the title of Baron to the family of Wynne, [see col. 73, and Row¬ land’s Mona Antiqua Restaurata, p. 113.J 369 NEWBOROUGH. NEWCASTLE IN EMLYN. 970 To Beaumaris, 16 miles. — Caernarfon, 6 miles. From Llanbedr, 19 miles, Skrine ; Malkin. - Cilgerran, 7 miles, Evans. -Cardigan, 10 miles, Lipscomb. NEWCASTLE IN EMLYN, or Dinas Emlyn. This village is partly in Cardigan¬ shire and partly in Caermarthenshire, on the direct road from Cardigan to Llan- bedr, pleasantly situated upon the banks of the river Teify. This river yields a- bundance of trout, and the salmon found in it is famous throughout Wales. The population of this place was in 1801, 854 inhabitants, 191 houses. It’s Castle was rebuilt by sir Rice ap Thomas, who made it one of his principal residences. It’s si¬ tuation is highly picturesque. The ap¬ proach from the town is particularly fine. The arched gateway, about 14 feet high, supported by 2 octagon towers, exhibits the romantic character of the country be¬ yond to a singular advantage. But what gives to this spot a degree of interest so peculiarly it’s own, is the sportive course of the river at this place. The Teifi en¬ ters the valley from the n-e. and flows in a straight line, till it arrives nearly under¬ neath the castle ; it then Lakes a sudden turn, and, instead of winding immediately round the foot of the hill, darts back again for a considerable way, in a course parallel with it’s first channel, and near to it. It then sweeps round majestically in front, leaving a long and very beautiful mea¬ dow between it and the castle, and comes down again on the opposite side, with features of a different character. Here it’s bed becomes impeded by rocks, through which it furrows a deep, tortuous, and noisy course, and rolls with much im¬ petuosity under the venerable bridge. Thus is the castle almost surrounded with a magnificent natural moat. This hoise- shoe bend is far more curious and striking than that of the Wye.— B. H. Malkin. The dmrch at Newcastle is a chapel of ease to Cennarth. The turnpike-road to Cardigan, lies through Punt Curry, lm. (lm. further on the 1. is Peuvsenn-fawr, and a short distance beyond is a road to Iilaen Pant, Wm. Owen Brigstock, esq.) Pont-hirwen, 2m. Pont- tfteyn, 1 m. 5f, Jm. beyond is Stradmore vale, J. N. Taylor, esq., cross a brook which falls into the Teify on the 1. at Llwyn y Grawys, l£m. (within about lm. of Cardi¬ gan, is Ltangoedmawr, rev. B. Milling- champ.) Cardigan, 3£m. In going to Cardigan, instead of crossing Kerry bridge, mr. Malkin advises the tourist to take the Caermarthenshire side of the river, from the bridge at Llan- dyssul, for about 3m. below, till he comes to the river Ceach, which divides the counties of Caermarthen and Pembroke. Instead of crossing the river, a path to the r. leads up to Cenarth, where there is a noted salmon leap on the Teifi. To Aberystwi th, mr. Evans first visited the woods of Henllan and the vale above Llandyssil, and then turned towards the sea. Leaving mr. Lloyd’s of Bromuyn on the 1. and passing by Capcl Drinidad, he reached a spot called Castell Gwythern, where stood the palace of Vortigern, at present a naked precipitous rock. Passing the village of Troderaur, he descended in¬ to the fertile valley of Cwm Cerris, bounded by wooded hills. On a lingula or angle formed by the conflux of a small rivulet into the Cerris, on a circular shaped hill, is a british encampment, consisting of 2 valiums and 2 fosses, called Dinas Cerris. The inhabitants of this district are poor and the soil barren and unsheltered. The huts are chiefly built of mud, with chimnies formed of wicker work. Passing Blaen y Porth there are some intrenchments called Casicll Nadoligov Yndalig, said to be a fort¬ ress erected by earl Gilbert and his Flem¬ ings, which was taken and razed by Gryf- fydd ap Rhys, a. d. 1113, named Blaen Purtli Gwythern. A little below, on a small creek, is the hamlet of Aker Porth. Skirt¬ ing along the coast n. occurs a cove, call¬ ed Traelh Sailh, of uncommon beauty. Several fine curvatures beneath perpen¬ dicular schistose rocks, form cliffs nearly 600 feet high. To the s. it is sheltered by the head-lands of Pen y bryn and Pen Brybbach, and to the n. by Moel y bade!! and Inys Llochdu. Crossing Pont tjr Yanc, is Llandissilivgogo . where Daffydd ap Evan entertained the earl of Richmond and his followers, which the earl (afterwards Henry 7) acknowledged by rich presents, particularly a drinking horn, now in the possession of John Vaughan, esq. of Gold¬ en-Grove, Caermarthenshire. The Church, a vicarage in the gift of the bp. of St. David, consists of a uavc, south aisle, and chan- 971 NEWCASTLE IN EMLYN. 072 cel. By the w. door of the nave is a re¬ ceptacle for holy-water. Near a delapidat- ed chapel in this parish, in a turbary, was dug up about the year 1798, a curious ves¬ sel, somewhat resembling a coffee-pot, made of bell-metal, and 9 inches in height. It is now in the possession of David Lloyd, esq. of AUtxjr Odin, upon whose estate it was found. Near Inys Llochdu is a har¬ bour called New Quay. Crossing the mountains, and descending into the vale of Aeron, there is a small inn called Aber- aeron. [see col. 5.] Llanrystedxs a poor village with a neat church, standing upon a high hill to the s-e. On the sea shore are some ruins, said to be the remains of a religious house, but evidently those of a castle built by Cadwallader, brother of Owen Gwynedd, in 1148, who gave this part of Cardiganshire to his son Howel. From Aberaeron to this place is an exten¬ sive flat between the sea and the e. moun¬ tains, famed for producing from 60 to 80 bushels of fine barley per acre. These lands are dressed every 3 years with the sea wreck in it’s wet state, and are every year under barley without a single inter¬ vening crop. It is strange that the occu¬ piers of other parts of the coast do not en¬ rich themselves in the same way. Two m. from this village are 2 rude upright stones, one of them 12 feet high. Passing oyer a high ridge of land exhibiting the most de¬ lightful scenery, the Ystwith occurs, over which is thrown a stone bridge of one arch. Climbing a high slate hill and de¬ scending into the vale of the Rhydol, the traveller reaches Aberystwith, over a handsome stone bridge.—J. Evans. ToLlanbedr, leave to the n. Cilgwyn the seat of a family named Lloyd. Thomas Lloyd, esq. of Coedmawr is the present proprietor. Llandifriog, lm. in a romantic situation. It is a vicarage in the bishop- rick of St. Davids. Aberdeuddwr, 2m. where 2 brooks unite. Up the first strearp V|m. lies Bronwydd, a delightful situation, overlooking a well-wooded vale, the seat of T. Lloyd, esq. lm. to the s. is Henllay, meaning old church. In this parish is one of the finest cascades on the Teify, called Frwdeu Henllan. A dingle near the river is called Cum Iwbwb. §m. n-e. from liron- wydd is Pen y Baili, the seat of — Davies, e.sq.; formerly called Pen y Beili Bedw, on account of a tumulus near it. Llan- gtvntlv Ties £m. n-w. of the last place. The church is a rectory, in the gift of the free ’ holders of the parish ; it stands upon an elevated situation, commanding an exten¬ sive view down the vale of Bronwydd, a- cross the Teifi ; it consists of a nave, chan¬ cel and porch, lm. more n. is Gernos, the seat of Llewelyn Parry, esq. lm. from Aberdeuddwr, upon the turnpike-road, and the 4th from Newcastle, midway be¬ tween the turnpike-road and the Teifi, lies Llanfair Orllwyn, or Llanfaer o’r Llwyn, i. e. St. Mary’s in the grove. The church is a rectory in the gift of the bp. of St. David’s. 2m. further is a placecalled Horeb, from hor a hill, and eb to flow; whence rises the stream Merwydd. lm. further cross the valley and river Cerdyn. Another mile pass some cross roads to Pont y Defuid, where the river Clettwr is crossed, lm. on the r. down this valley is Allt yr Odyn, the seat of David Lloyd, esq. Continuing upon the banks of the river nearly 2m. is Bangor or Banchor, in the manor of Dyfryn Teify. The church is a rectory in the gift of the bishop of St. David’s, which stands upon a steep emi¬ nence close by the river, answering to it’s name Ban chor. It consists simply of a nave and chancel. The font is much carv¬ ed. About Jm. e. of the church is a cir¬ cular moated tumulus called Cast ell Pi slog. Passing Penlon, Abermerwydd and Cal- fach wen, about midway reach Llandyssul, distant from Bangor 4m. This is an ex¬ tensive parish, there being once besides the mother church six chapels of ease; each of these stood in a separate hamlet, i. e. Fairdref, Capel Ddewi, Glandys ilfed, Borthin, Lfanfair, and Llanfrene. A manu¬ script purportipg to be a chronicle of two battles was in the possession of mr. Silva- nus Jones, of this parish, but cannot be relied on. [see Meyrick’s Cardiganshire, p. 141.] The church is dedicated to St. Tyssul, stands close to the Teify side, and is large and handsome, consisting of a nave and chancel) two side aisles and a square tower. It is a vicarage, in the gift of the bp. of St. David’s, worth about 600/. per annum. In the yard is an old inscrib¬ ed stone 1 foot 6 inches long, 1 foot 2 in. broad, and about 8 inches thick, upon which are the following letters, velvor hlim brche, in 3 lines. The meaning of them cannot be made out. It now serves for part of a style leading to the church¬ yard. Not far from the church is a hill, 973 NEWCASTLE IN EMLYN. 974 upon which stands the ruins of a castle wall, called Castell Gwynionydd. In 1216 it was given with Castell Meibwnyawn to young Rhys, the sou of Gruffydd, ah Rys by prince Llewelyn. It is now called Cas¬ tell Coedd fon. All that remains is a cir¬ cular moated tumulus, with the ruins of the foundation of the keep. In this parish is another circular moated tumulus, re¬ sembling that before mentioned, now call¬ ed Cil y graig, but formerly Castell Abe- reinon, built by Malgwn, in 1205. There are also four Carneddau, or heaps of large stones, three lying near one to the other, and the 4th at a great distance. Three earthen jars were found in one of them containing ashes. Between the public- house called Allt yr Odin Arms, and Allt yr Odin, is a ford called Rhyd Owain, pro¬ bably from Owain Gwynedd. Not far from it is a tumulus called Tommen Rhyd Owen. Proceeding from Llandyssulcross the river Cerdyn at Fendrefach turn to the r. pro¬ ceed by Perulrc fawr, where a brook is crossed ; 1 m. further cross a second brook and soon after cross the Einon where it falls into the Clettwr, proceed up the banks to a fish-pond on the 1. in the grounds of Allt yr Odyn, the seat of David Lloyd, esq. descended from Rhys Lloyd, the second son of David ab Llewelyn Llwyd, esq. of Castell Hy well. Gaining the turnpike road at Allt yr Odyn Arms, at 9jm. from Newcastle, pass Camnant, near a little meandering brook, from which it takes it’s name, and which falls into the Clettwr, formerly belonging to David ab Rhys. Pass Blaenhirbant, and Llanwenog at the 13th mile on the r. The Church is a hand¬ some building, dedicated to St. Gwynog, with a high square tower. On the outside of the w. wall is a very anciently carved stone. The font is a large basin with 12 sides. Upon the banks of the Teify, are 2 circular mounds of earth, one near Crug y YVhyl, and the other half way between Llanybydder and Llanfaughan. A tumulus called Crug yn Udon, being opened in a field called Caebant, belonging to Bwlch- mawr, an earthen glazed coffin was found containing bones. In a farm called Cres¬ cent-grove, adjoining Bwlchjnawr, was dug up about the year 1800 two broken hand millstones, 2 feet in diameter. Upon the farm of Tycam is a square intrenchmcnt called Clatudd Buarth, from it’s similitude to a sheep fold. The field in which it stands was anciently termed Cae’r Faes. The Church is a handsome building, con¬ sisting of a nave, chancel, and s.aisle, and a high square tower at it’s w. end, dedi¬ cated to St. Gwynog. The pointed arch is here in it’s purest state, therefore, pro¬ bably erected in the 13th century j it’s tower bears the time of Henry 8. The side aisle has the pointed arch flattened, which was adopted in the time of Richard 2, and lasted till that of Henry 8. On the outside of the w. wall of this aisle, is a very an¬ cient carved stone, representing Christ and the two Marys. Lltinfaughan, i. e. little church. It was formerly a chapel, belong¬ ing to Llanwenog, but now an elegant mansion, the residence of Admiral Thom¬ as, rear admiral of the red, deputy lieuten¬ ant and justice of the peace for the coun¬ ty. The grounds have been planted with great judgment, and the proprietor is men¬ tioned as liberal, generous, and hospitable. His father was a Lloyd, of the family who had long had possession of the estate, but changed his name to Thomas. In the kitchen garden is an anciently inscribed stone, about 9 feet 3 inches in height a- bove the ground, inscribed “ trenacatus IC JACET FILIUS MACLAGNI.” Atl5jm. reach Han wnnen, placed upon the banks of the river Crannell. A moated tumulus called Castell du, not far from the churchy evidently designed to protect the passage across the river Crannel, gives name to a large farm adjoining. About the year 1802 some silver coins were dug up in afield, at a farm called Cefn Lewtref. They were triangular with a hole in the centre, and each had a circular inscription, but no care was taken of them. The Church is but a small building. It is a vicarage in the gift of the bishop of St. Davids. Not far dis¬ tant is Troedyrawr, the seat of the rev. Tho. Bowen, an eminent agriculturist, si¬ tuated in a pleasing valley. Pass Under - gjvve, and reach Feterwell on the r. a mag¬ nificent mansion, now in Tpins, originally built by Daniel Evans, esq. of Llechwydd Derrys, in the parish of Llanwronen, agent to Oliver Cromwell. Rebuilt by a Daniel Evans, who married Mary the daughter of Morgan Herbert, esq. of Hafod Ychdryd, but died before it was finished, in 1696. Colonel Baily Wallis is at present the own¬ er. Llanbedr, §m. To Caermarthen nothing remarkable occurs till you have proceeded 12m. when 975 NEWNHAM. NEW PASSAGE. 078 a noble eminence displays a rich valley bounded by the Glamorganshire hills, the town of Kidwelly lying near the sea-side, and the finearm which receives theTowey. To Cardigan, 10 miles, Malkin; Skrine. — Aberystwith, 38 miles, Evans. — Caermarllien, 20 miles, Lipscomb. — Llanbedr, 18 miles. From Glocester, 14i miles, Skrine. NEWNHAM, is a little picturesque town in Glocestershire, partaking in the wild appearance of the neighbouring for¬ est, and may properly be called it’s port. A passage is here established across the Severn, which forms the most direct com¬ munication from Monmouthshire to the opposite clothing towns in the vallies of the Cotteswold hills : this gives the place an air of commercial bustle and spirit, which does not militate with the rustic charms of the surrounding country. The church-yard of Newnham, covering an abrupt cliff, commands the two great reaches of the bold semicircle formed by the Severn, with the spire of Westbury on the 1. and Berkeley-castle on the r.; soon after which the river changes into a great estuary, and in sight becomes the Bristol channel. This place produces a corpor¬ ate body, tho’ it’s population in 1801, con¬ sisted only of 821 inhabitants, and the number of houses 145. In proceeding to Chepstow, the view, previous to our descending the hill to Lid- rtey, an ancient seat of the Bathursts, is ex¬ tensive and beautiful. At the distance of lm. is the Old Passage; and King’s-road, with the merchant ships, lying off Bristol; the Glocestershire and Somersetshire hills, studded with gentlemens’ seats, churches, and sheltered cottages, forming a varied and lively landscape. A little beyond, at the village of Lidney, there are some iron works carried on by mr. Pitchcock. On the Highway, Blakeney, 3m.; Lydney, 3$m.; Aylburtun, lm ; Alveston, lm.; Woolciston, lm.; Tiddcnham, 4m. ; on the r. — Williams, esq. Cross the Wye to Chepstow, l^m. To Ross mr. Skrine deserted the banks of the Severn, and ascended through the romantic village of Little Dean to the con¬ tiguous forest, whence he took a farewell view of the charming vale of Glocester, and entered on new scenery. Mitchel Dean, is an agreeable little town, in a na¬ turally sequestered situation, which is aid¬ ed by execrable roads through the forest. Most travellers make a circuit by Ross, from Glocester to Monmouth. The coun¬ try from Dean to Ross has the same forest¬ like appearance as that from Newnham. To Ross, 9 miles, Skrine. — Chepstow, 15 miles. — Mitchel Dean, 5 miles. ^t av /-.c r f -T* * A* a-V From Caldecot Castle, 2 miles, Barber. The Rev. W. Coxe, commences his Tour in Mon¬ mouthshire, visits Caldecot Castle, and returns. From Bristol, lOj- miles, Donovan; Evans; Manby. M r. Wa met began both his fi rst and second walks here. From Chepstow, 5 miles, Skrine. The ferry at the NEW PASSAGE is the principal entrance into Monmouthshire, from the s-w. counties. The breadth of the water from this place to the Bristol coast at high water is 3£m. The New Passage Inn is upon the s. or Glocester¬ shire side of the Severn. A most enchant¬ ing landscape is presented from the win- i dows of this inn, which opens towards the Severn, disclosing the beautiful and diver¬ sified shores of Monmouthshire, with part of Glocestershire. Hills and mountains compose the back ground. From a walk extending in front of the house see King- road, Portshead Point, and the Isle of Den¬ ny, The times when the great boat de¬ parts from the Bristol coast is nearly on the slack of the flux and reflux of the tide. As the course of the river stretches nearly from e. to w. while the tide is on the flood an e. wind is most favourable, while on the ebb a w. wind. But should the wind be from the n. or s. points, it will be necessary for the traveller to be at the Passage an hour pievious to those times. The state of the tides may always be known by en¬ quiry at Bristol, where it is nearly half an hour later. The rates are, four wheeled carriages, 12s. two wheeled 6s. a man and horse, Is. fid., a horse alone, Is., a foot passenger 9d. Small boats, capable of carrying a private parly, are always ready, at the rate of 5s. besides 9d. for each per¬ son. If the traveller be necessitated to pass over this ferry at low water he will have to disembark at a short distance from the usual landing-place, and subjected to a very slippery walk over the surface of the 978 977 NEW PASSAGE. rocks, cohered with Confervae, Fuci, and other marine plants. There are 2 shelving rocks connected with the main land. The contiguous inn on the n. side of the river, is hence called the Black rock inn, but more properly St. Andrews, This, as well as the Aust or Old Passace ferry, is a mon¬ opoly, and, like all monopolies, hostile to the interest of the public. The boatmen, are of course, rude in their manners, in¬ different to the accommodation of the pas¬ sengers, and practised in the arts of extor¬ tion. The shore of Monmouthshire rises from the edge of the water in gentle ac¬ clivities, richly wooded, and interspersed with fields of corn and pasture; above, are extensive ridges of hills, which commence with the Wind cliff, and are succeeded by the wooded eminences of Piercefield, and the two grey hills above Llanfair. To the w. towers the Pencamawr, and the eye catches a distant view of Twyn Barlwm, and the Machen Hill, terminating in the eminences beyond Newport, in the coun¬ ty of Glamorgan. About ^m. from the Monmouthshire shore, is a rocky islet, called Charstone Hock, on which roman coins have been found. The boat-man can pass close to these craggy rocks, if desir¬ ed, and in the humour to be civil. The stone is used for building. This ferry is memorable for the escape of Charles 1, who being pursued by the republican sol¬ diers, crossed the Severn to Chisell Pill, on the Glocestershire side. From the New Passage Inn may be vis¬ ited Sudbrook Encampment, at the distance of lm. on the shore to the w., crowning the brow of an eminence which rises in an abrupt cliff from Caldecot level. This remnant of ancient dissention, consisting of 3 ramparts and 2 ditches, forms a semi¬ circle, the chord of which is the sea-cliff; but it is evident, that part of the eminence has mouldered away ; and most probably the figure of the fortification was once cir¬ cular. E. of this encampment is Sudbrook Chapel, a small gothic ruin, which was formerly attached to a mansion of norman foundation, of which no traces appear ; it’s remains have probably been swept away by the encroachment of the sea. Some piles of hewn stones near the ramparts may be it’s relics, [see 318.] The vicinity of Chepstow abounds with numerous curi¬ osities. St. Pierre’s, Moin’«-Court, and Mathern Place, have claims to attention, and may be visited in the way. A foot path running mostly upon an embankment leads from the New Passage, across tire fields to St. Pierre, an ancient seat of the Lewis family, descended from Cadifor the great. This mansion exhibits an incon¬ gruous mixture, in which the modern sash¬ ed window, is patched upon a gothic struc¬ ture upwards of 400 years old ! An em¬ battled gateway, flanked with pentagonal towers, is still more ancient. In the porch of the Church afe two sepulchral stones, which have attracted the notice of anti, quaries ; one of them bears the following inscription, and is supposed to be the tomb of Urien de St. Pierre, who lived in the reign of Henry 3. lei git le cors v de sene pere, preez par li en bop manere; qu Jesu pur so pasiun, de phecez li donepardun Amen. R. P. i. e. Here lies the body of Urien deSt. Pierre; pray devoutly for his soul, that Jesus for his passion’s sake, would give him pardon for his sins. Nearly opposite this spot is the great es¬ tuary of the Bristol channel, contracting in width and taking the name of the Severn, from the well-known story of the British princess Sabrina. See Milton’s Comus, beginning at “ There is a gentle nymph not far from hence.” Crossing the grounds at St. Pierre and passing Pool Met¬ ric, a brook falling into the Severn, to the r. stands Mathern Palace, formerly the episcopal seat of the bishops of Llandaff. The structure, which surrounds a quad¬ rangular court, raised by different bishops, is situated in a gentle hilly country, pleas¬ ingly diversified with wood and pasturage. Some specimens of dilapidated grandeur appear in the e. window; and the entrance was through a lofty ornamented porch, which has been destroyed, and the build¬ ing occupied as a mere farm house. The farmer who inhabits this house is a pleas¬ ant guide. “That court contains my cattle; swine are there; here fowls and fuel; underneath is beer. Snug, in that chamber, sir, my corn is kept; my clover yonder, where a king has slept; my dame, her curds, does in the chapel squeese; in Chancel salts her chines; the font holds cheese. • There died a bishop; here his ghost walk’d since, until our Joan did fairly scold it thence. Oft rosy churchmen, here to ease resign’d, on that great dough-trough, then a table, din’d.” The principal hall is 32 feet by 16, and 20 high; the chapel, when undivided was 579 NEW PASSAGE. 680 30 feet by 10. The wrecks of a library be- rooms, and good accommodation. With- longing the see yet remain. The road to -n a short distance from Mathern is Moint- Chepstow lies upon inclosed lands; from court, another deserted ecclesiastic man- one part, the Severn appears as two spacious sion. It’s foundation is attributed to bp. •lakes. Hardwick, house, on the r. stands up- Godwin, occupied also as a farm house. A on an eminence commanding a view of the handsome gothic porch, defended by two interesting country around. There is a lofty turrets is presented. Within the court Chapel dedicated to St. Treacle, near the yard are two roman inscribed stones, said, mouth of the Wye, said to have been erect- b y Gibson, to have been brought from ed in the year 47. It has been covered by Caerleon. One appears to have been a the sea but it’s remains are yet visible, votive altar; the other records the repair- at some distance below the high-water log or rebuilding of the temple of Diana mark ; an instance that the sea incroaches b y T. H. Posthumius Varus. Mr. Wynd- on the Monmouthshire and Glamorganshire ham says the most curious of the inscrip- coasts ; while on the Flintshire and Che- tion!i hav e been removed to the House at shire shores, much land has been gained Moir.scourt. In the orchard adjoining is from the sea. In the chancel of Mathern the ground plot of a court of large dimen- Church, (a gothic structure, but of british s ' ons anciently called Monk's court. Ma- origin) is an epitaph on Theodoric, king them Palace lies about 200 paces from this of Glamorgan. It was placed here by bish- P' ace - From Mathern mr. Cox entered op Godwin, and decorated by painted the high road to Chepstow, and turned to ornaments and military emblems. “Here 1. proceeding straight till he came to lielh intombed the body of Theodorick, the gateway leading into the park of St. king of Morganuch or Glamorgan, com- Pierre. At this point 3 roads diverge; one monly called St. Thewdrick, and account- g° es through Caerwent to Newport, the ed a martyr because he was slain in a battle to Caldecot, and the 3d leads to Port- againstthesaxons, (being then pagans,) and scw it and the New Passage. Opposite to in defence of the Christian religion. The the back road, leading to St. Pierre, he battle was fought at Tintern, where he ob- turned near a farmhouse, called Hyer's tained a great victory. He died here being S a * e > and passing a narrow lane to Broad- in his way homeward, three days after the well farm, ascended to Jlunslon, once a battle, having taken order with Maurice pi ac e of magnitude, now in ruins, which his son who succeeded him in the king- occupy an eminence upon the side of the happen to decease, a church should be built road > leading to Shire Newton, in the midst dom, “that in the same place he should of a thick and solitary wood. An old barn and his body buried in the same, which only remains and delapidated chapel. This was accordingly performed, in the year chapel is annexed to Mathern. The estate 600.” There is an inscription to the mem- be l° n gs to that of St. Pierre. From Broad- ory of Thomas Hughes, esq. of Moin’s ^Ufarm, a narrow and hollow way, some- court, clerk of the crown for the counties what resembling a ditch, leads into the of Monmouth, Glamorgan, Brecon, and hi S h road from Chepstow to Newport, at Radnor, who died in 1667. Upon a brass thc vllla S e of Cn ck. are the effigies of Philip Williams, and ° n lheroad to Chepstow, through the Alicia his wife, kneeling upon each side village of St. Pierre, a range of naked cliffs appears to rise irom a tract of verdure; a venerable wood shadowing the brow of the rocks, in front of which often rises a forest of masts, with waving pendants, This singular combination results from the position,of Chepstow and it’s port, in an abrupt hollow inclosed by considerable eminences in every direction. The whole of this scenery seems to unfold itself like a map beneath the view of the advancing traveller. There isa foot r ath to Chepstow from of an altar, inscribed as follows. O Christ oure God, sure hope of healpe, besyde ye have we none; thy truth we love, and falsehode hate, be thoweour gyde alone. In molten mettall or carved stone, no confidence we have; but in thy deathe and precious bloode, or sowlej fro’ hell to save. Veribus hie donor, et sic ostendere donor, hie veluti ponor, sic erit orbis honor— Ornata p Henricum Williams, eorum filium, Arnio Donr. 1500. The Parrot Inn contains some excellent the Old Passage Inn, commanding several 18 I NEW PASSAGE. ;ood prospects. The Wye is often seen imid a pleasing variety of wood and cul- ure. A mile on this side of Chepstow, lie town and castle appear to great advan- age. The Wye flows close to the town ; lie houses rise irregularly one above the ither, backed by rich lands and thick woods. Approaching nearer, the prospect s entirely shut out by a high wall; after lescendtng by it’s side for ^m. Chepstow Castle unexpectedly appears in sight. On the road to Caldecot Castle are the •emains of an ancient encampment call- ;d Porthskewyddencampment, which is sup¬ posed to have been formed by the romans o cover their landing in Siluria, but is al¬ io attributed to Harold during his invasion if Gwent. The village of Porthskewydd tho’ now nearly lm. from the shore, was once washed by the sea, and probably the port .o Caerwent, as it’s name Purl is Cued, seems to imply ; but the deviations of the Severn current have reduced this once ausy place to a little creek, scarcely ever used, except in imminent danger, by the small craft that navigate the Severn and the Wye. Leaving the Black Rock inn, says mr. Donovan, our route conducted us through a fine open country of singular beauty ; ascending gradually for miles in¬ to lulls and gentle eminences on the r.; and sloping into a most extensive sweep of low but fertile land, to the broad bosom of the Severn on the 1. Those travellers who wish to avoid Chepstow on their way to Milford, might walk ^m. to Portscqit and there meet horses and attendants. On the road to Caerwent occurs the villages Porthskewydd, lm., and Crick, [see 105.] l^m. whence a gentle rise leads to the e. gate of Caerwent. This is the Via Julia, or ancient military way, formed ac¬ cording to Camden about the year 80. To the r. is the river Usk, with the village of Llanfair and it’s ivied castle. To the 1. lies the coast of Somersetshire and the river Severn. The road to Usk is tedious and uninter¬ esting over wretched and rugged roads, through the gloomy forest of Wentwood. To Chepstow, 5 miles. Barber. To Caldecot Castle, 2 miles, Skrine; Evans; Do¬ novan; Coxe; Warner. — Caerwent, 7§ miles, Coxe; Warner’s 2d walk; G. W. Manby. — Usk, 13 miles. * ■* * yy/ / y/yyyyyyyy^yyy NEWPORT, Mon. 982 From Caerdiff, 11J miles. Barber. - Penhow Castle, 7miles, Coxe. - Caerleon, 3 miles, Wyndham; Skrine; Evans; Donovan; Warner; Manby. NEWPORT, is a market town, and par¬ ish, in the hundredof Wentlog, Monmouth¬ shire. In 181‘2 it contained 202 houses and 1135 inhabitants. The situation is fortunate, being upon the banks of a navig¬ able river, in a district extremely fertile; where the mineral treasures of the hills may be conveyed by canals. This town, called by Gyraldus, Novus Burgus, arose out of the declining greatness of Caerleon, and was denominated by the Welsh, Cas¬ tle newydd, or New-castle. Robert, earl of Glocester, natural son of Henry 1, ob¬ tained the lordship of Monmouth in right of his wife, Maud, daughter of Robert Fitzhamon, with other possessions. He erected the castles of-Bristol, Caerdiff and Newport. William the son of Robert, gar¬ risoned this castle strongly, in 1171. In the year 1173, Henry 2, had deprived prince Jorwerth ap Owen of a great part of his possessions, but while Henry was engag¬ ed in the French war, the welsh chieftain repossessed himself of it. Henry on his return found him very formidable, and proposed peace. For the sake of negocia- tion he offered a safe passage to Jorwerth and his sons; but while his oldest son Owen ap Caradoc was on the road to meet his father, some soldiers from the garrison of Newport slew the young and valiant chieftain. If this was done at Henry’s in¬ stigation it marks a cruel and mistaken policy. When this account reached the ears of Jorwerth he broke off the confer¬ ence, returned with his younger son How¬ ell. Roused by this perfidious act, the welsh rallied round his standard, breathing revenge, and they carried fire and sword upon the banks of the Severn and the Wye, to the gates of Hereford and Glocester. The Castle standing near the foot of the bridge, onther.bank ofthe Usk isof incon¬ siderable dimensions. The building forms nearly a parallelogram, and is constructed with rubble, coigned with hewn stone. The side towards the town consists simply of a plain wall, devoid of buttresses. To¬ wards the n. in the centre, is a square tower, forming the citadel, flanked with small turrets. Beneath is a sallyport facing the river, with a pointed arch and grove for a portcullis; on each side is a large 083 massy fowcr, with windows and oillets in the pointed style. The centre contains the state-room ; adjoining are the remains of the baronial hall, with decorated win¬ dows of rich stone tracery. The Castle came into the possession of Richard de Clare, earl of Hereford, and descended to the Le Dispensers. It was restored to Hugh de Audley, and came by marriage to Ralph earl of Stafford. It continued in this family till the attainder of Edward, third duke of Buckingham, when the cas¬ tle and lordship were seized by Henry 8. The present proprietor is William Kemeys, esq. of Mayndee. Newport was once surrounded with walls of which no vestig¬ es remain. It appears from Leland that 3 gates were standing in his time. One a large stone gate, by the bridge at the e. end of the town ; another at the w. end near the church; and another in the centre of High-street. The site of the e. and w. may be traced; the central was taken down about the year 1808. An old building near the spot where the gate stood is called the murenger’s house, an officer of consequence, who superintend¬ ed the walls and collected the tolls for keeping them in repair. The edifice has an ornamented front, with shields of arms carved in stone over an antiquated door¬ way. In a niche in the upper window of fhe w. front of the tower is a curious sta¬ tue of Henry 3, as decapitated by Crom¬ well’s soldiers. The town is governed by a corporation denominated the mayor, al¬ dermen, and burgesses. This town, Usk, and Monmouth conjointly, send one mem¬ ber to parliament. The place is long, nar¬ row, and straggling, consisting principally of one street, built partly upon the banks of the Usk and partly upon a declivity the summit of which is crowned with the par¬ ish church. Leland says “ ther was a house of religion by the key, beneth the bridge.”—-Itin. iv, 53. Tanner has con¬ jectured that it was a monastery of friars preachers. The remains are near the river below the bridge, consisting of several de¬ tached apartments; the fratry, with it’s windows, and the n. transept of the con¬ ventual church. The gardens are yet bounded by the original wall. The 'Church of Saint Woolas, called by Leland St. Guntie, Olave in english, consists of a lofty square tower, a nave with 2 aisles, a chancel, and a small chapel dedicated to 684 St. Mary, now used as a cemetery. “ This Church,” says mr, Barber, “ exhibits the architecture of several ages : it’s nave, separated from the side aisles by a colo- nade of pillars of a clumsy structure, com¬ prehends the original church, which is of the oldest mode of building, and may be considered of a date prior to the settlement of the Normans; the chancel and aisles are of a later architecture. The w. door¬ way connected with the ancient chapel of St. Mary (now converted into a burying, place, and which was formerly the grand entrance) exhibits a curious specimen of saxon carving, in a circular archway, with several hatcheted, crenellated, and billet¬ ed mouldings, resting upon two capitals of rude foliage. The nave is separated from the aisles by 5 circular arches on each side, resting upon 4 massive col¬ umns, and a pentagonal pilaster, or half column at each extremity. The church contains three ancient monuments. One I is an armed knight, beneath a canopy sup. ported by pillars, who probably lived in j the time of Elizabeth; opposite a mural i monument, to the memory of Nehemiah i Williams, esq. mayor; on the floor of the j chancel is an effigiated grave-stone, very i ancient. There are also the remnants of I two other monuments; one a mutilated ! knight in armour, with a female figure, ap¬ parently of the 15th century; the other a headless trunk, with the r. arm struck off near the shoulder, seems of the earliest norman era. A cenotaph to the memory of mr. Pratt, is inscribed, “ To the memory of Benjamin Pratt, esq. of Great Whitley, Worcestershire, who died at Blaenafon, in this county, May 24, 1794, aged 52 years; and lies interred at Chadsley, in Worces¬ tershire. A native of this country, though removed from it in early life, he cherished it’s remembrance with lively regard, and his last years were successfully employed in contributing to it’s prosperity. He was principally concerned in establishing the iron works at BlaenaJ'on and it’s vicinity, and was a warm promoter of the Mon* mouthire canal. Soundness of judgment; rectitude of principle, and urbanity of man* ners, eminently conspired to form in him the man of business and the gentleman. He died with that pious fortitude, which manifested in his last moments that he was at peace with his God.” Mr. Donovan had often desired to ascChd the lofty tur NEWPORT, Mon, >85 NEWPORT, Mon. 086 ret of the church; this he accomplishedin me of his excursions, but he says “ not without trouble; the winding staircase leading to it’s battlements, after reaching i certain height, being at best in a very in- fifferent state of repair; but having gain- zd the summit, he was amply recompensed or the extraordinary exertion requisite in :he ascent, by the rich variety of prospects which were at once unveiled. The Church /ard affords a fine prospect of the surround- ng country. From this spot the eye reach- 35 to the wide expanse of the Bristol chan- tel, bounded by lofty hills; at the other sxtremity appears the ruinated Castle, watered by the translucied Usk; wood, ntermingled with pasture, clothes the sur¬ rounding hills and vales ; the wild moun- ains round Pont-y-pool; the fertile tract af Wentlog and Caldecot levels; and the Bristol channel, backed by the hills of Somersetshire. St. U'oolos, or Gwnlliw, ar Gunleus, the patron of this spot, is held in high veneration by the natives. He re¬ tired from the pride and pageantry of king- hood, to lead a life of prayer and mortifi¬ cation. A lowly cottage was his dwell¬ ing; sackcloth his apparel. He lived by the labour of his hands ; the chrystal rill afforded his only beverage, and barley- ibread, rendered more disagreeable by a sprinkling of ashes, his constant food. He left this world, for better fare in the next, about the end of the fifth century.” Near the church was a barrow, called Trwyn Gwnlliw, or the tomb of St. Woolas. This Harris conjectures to have been one of these forts denominated arx specitlatoria, which the romans constructed near their encampments, of which latter many ves¬ tiges are still visible in the vicinity. Near the castle was a roman military way, call¬ ed Julia Strata, and a ford is shewn in a stream named Nant Hentham, which Henry 2, who had a freckled face, had no sooner passed, tho’ by mere accident, than the welsh readily submitted to him, as Merlin Sylvester had foretold that the Welsh should be conquered by a prince of that complexion, who should pass the ford. Large vestiges of a roman station still re¬ main at Newport. Cacr Fule has by Camb- den been supposed to be Caerphilly, but mr. Malkin decidedly maintains that “ Caer in welsh is the latin Castrum, Buie, or Bu-lle signifies the place of cows. The latin termination would make it Bulleum. The welsh nouns change not their endings but their initials. Buie, in the genitive case is Fule, a word of 2 syllables. Caer Fule or Castra Bulleum, long as it has been unaccountably missed by the geographers, stands just without the town of Newport to the w.”—vol. i, p. 317. Two m. to the s-e. of Newport, on the shores of the Severn, is the village of Gold- cliff. At this place are the remains of an ancient Priory founded by Robert de Chan- dos for Benedictine monks, in the year 1113. At the dissolution it was among the possessions of Eton College, valued at 144/. 8r. If/. The site of this once flour¬ ishing monastery is now occupied as a farm house, built with the materials. A barn upon the edge of the cliff has an antiquated doorway. The cliff upon which these stand is a peninsulated rocky hill rising abruptly from the sea, to the height of about 60 feet. In an extent of 16m. this single rock is the only natural barrier against the encroach¬ ments of the sea, the remainder of this ex¬ tent of coast is guarded from inundations by artificial mounds. The rock consists of lime-stone lying horizontally, intersected with silicious crystalizations, above an immense bed of mica. The glistening of this substance when the sun shines upon it gave it it’s present appellation. Near Newport, in the level of Mendal- gyf, are the ruins of Cuslell C.las, which appears to have been a strong and splendid fortress. The 3 churches of the levels, arc St. Brides, Peterslone, and Marshjield. When mr. Coxe passed this way the peculiar ap¬ pearance of Twym Barlwm induced him to visit the summit. It is 6m. in circumfer¬ ence at the base, covered w'ith russet herb¬ age, and without a tree. On the summit is a circular tumulus, or artificial mound of earth and stones, 18yards in height,sur¬ rounded with a deep foss, which by some is conjectured to have been a beacon, and by others a place of sepulture. Tradition says that this spot was devoted to bardic as¬ semblies. “ Twyn Barlwm being situated on the highest point of the chain, which bounds the rich vallies watered by the Usk, commands or.e of the most singular and glorious prospects which he had en¬ joyed in Monmouthshire, and which can¬ not be reduced to a specific and adequate description. To the s., the levels ol Cal¬ decot End Wentlog, with the broad Severn, losing itself in an expanse of sea, seemed 087 NEWPORT, Mon. 088 to stretch at the bottom of it’s sloping de* clivity ; the town of Newport, and the tow¬ er of Christchurch rising in the midst of hills and forests. Tothe e. appear the cul¬ tivated parts of Monmouthshire, swelling into numerous undulations fertilized by the meandering Usk. These rich prospects are contrasted on the n. and w. with a wav¬ ing surface of mountains, which stretch beyond the confinesofGlamorganshireand Brecknockshire. This dreary expanse is nothing but a succession of russet emin¬ ences, almost without the appearance of a single habitation, excepting the district of Cross Penmaen, which is profusely studded with white houses on the summit, and a- long the sloping declivities. The beauti¬ ful rallies of the Ebwy and Sorwy appear in the hollows between the mountains, deep¬ ly shaded with trees, and watered by tor¬ rents which faintly glimmer through the intervening foliage.” On the road to Caerdiff, passing over the wooden-piered bridge which crosses the river Ebwy, between the 3d and 4th mile-stone, appear the noble grounds of the Tredegar estate, the seat of sir Charles Morgan. The approach is not the most prepossessing ; the house looks rather flat and ugly. It stands low and too near a large sheet of water. The entrance into the park is, however, excellent, the lodge tho’ perfectly plain is neat, placed on one side ofthegatein a thick plantation, the boughs of which form a gothic arch over the road. From the summit of the next hill the canal in the park is seen to great advantage, and all the grounds have a bet¬ ter effect; the plantations seem better ar¬ ranged and the general plan discovers much taste and judgment, [sec col. 255.J Some charming breaks of vale and wood¬ land scenery occasionally intervene upon the road to Caerdiff. There is one of singu¬ lar beauty, deserving notice, in which a little extent of country is seen smiling in all the pride of rural neatness. The dis¬ tance is closed by an appropriate boundary of hills : the church of Bassaleg rears it’s aged front in one point of the view among the trees. No remains of the ancient Pri¬ ory exist at Basseleg; there is, however, a Tuined building at the distance of about lm. in the midst of a deep sequestered forest, not far from the Rumney, upon the confines of Machen parish, which is by some supposed to be part of the original cell. The name of this forest is still called Coed y Monachly. About lm. from Bas¬ saleg, and $m. from the highroad is Craig y Saesson. [see col. 456.] About lm. fur¬ ther close to the highroad on the 1. is a similar encampment upon the level sum¬ mit of an eminence called Pen y Park New- ydd, a circular entrenchment, with a single foss, and rampart of earth. Some large stones near the foss seem to have formed part of the walls ; the entrance is s-w. by s. This spot commands a superb view : on the e. the high and woody ridge crown¬ ed by the Pencamawr stretches along the midland parts of Monmouthshire, and ter¬ minates in the bare tops of the Treleg hills; to the n-e. is a lower chain of eminences, backed by the Graeg and Garway, to the n. the great Skyridd, towering like a volcano; the long range of the Mynedd maen, with Twyn Barlwm, rising like an excressence upon it’s s. extremity. Nearly n. is Myn- ydd Machen, under which is the beautiful vale of Machen ; to the n-w. the mansion and groves of Ruparra, connected with the Glamorganshire hills. The s-w. is closed by the low and narrow promontory of Pen Arth and the mouth of the Taff crowded with shipping. S. extends the levels of Caldecot and VVentlog, watered by the Usk, and bounded by the Bristol channel, with the flat and steep Holmes, like points in the expanse of water. Passing through Castletown, 5jm. and ascending towards St. Melons, 7|m. the road lies over a bold, but gradual swell of land, whence a prospect of prodigious extent breaks unexpectedly upon the sight. Within the limits of this view lie, widely exposed, a part of the marshy lands of Wentlog level; beyond, the Bristol channel, bounded by the hazy shores of Somerset; two islets, the steep- holm, and flat-holm, rise out of the ex¬ panse of water; in the distance is gener* ally a few vessels. Proceeding onward, the smoke arising from burning kelp, and 2 or 3 glasshouses on the coast, contribute to diversify the landscape. 3m. distant from CaerdlfF cross the bridge over the Romney, which divides the counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan. Advancing close to the town of Cat rdiff, an aged ruin of monastic character, occurs upon the r. contiguous to the high road, behind a clus¬ ter of houses, which form one part of the out-skirts of the place. This edifice was once occupied by a company of gray friars, 989 NEWPORT, Mon. 990 not cisterian or white, as some tourists as¬ sert. [Vide Leland, vol. iv, fol. 74.]—E. Donovan. Mr. Coxe made an excursion from Newport, in which he passed as before described to Caerdiff, hut at the half way house between Newport and Caerdiff, he turned to the r. and passing the church of Llanfihangel Fedw, a handsome gothic edi¬ fice, reached the frontiers. Monmouth is separated from Glamorgan by the Rumney, aver which a stone bridge leads to Kefen- mably. Upon the e. bank is an old Cottage tailed Begam, said to have been inhabited ay the Kemeys family before they remov- ;d to Cefnmably. Near it is a mill. Return¬ ing by Llanfihangel Fedw to the half way louse he proceeded to Si. Melons, where he upper and lower roads from Newport ;o Caerdiff unite. The Church is a singu- ar but picturesque edifice, built with rag¬ stone and plaistered. The vaulted ceiling is not unworthy of notice, particularly at the e. extremity of the chapel, where it is arnamented with curiously carved wood. 3m. from St. Melons, close to the highroad, s Rumney Church, an edifice not less than 180 feet from the tower to the end of the chancel. The tower is decorated with battlements and gothic pinnacles. The windows exhibit remains of painted glass. Beyond the junction of the upper and low¬ er road from Newport to Caerdiff, and near Pony Pil is a small encampment of an ir- egular figure, between an oval and a poly¬ gon. It is situated upon an abrupt emi- lence near a small stream. It’s length is scarcely 50 yards, it’s greatest breadtli 40. The entrenchments are deep ; the entrance is on the s-e. Another encampment over¬ hangs the steep banks of the Rumney, £m. above the bridge, and about 300 yards from the turnpike. It’s shape is almost like that af a D. Connected with the w. side is a triangular outwork. From Rumney bridge mr. Coxe returned to St. Melons, and pursued his journey along the lower or new turnpike-road from Newport to Caerdiff. This road runs along the side of the wooded eminences which shirt the edge of Wentlog level, and overlooks the whole of that fertile tract, rescued from the sea. This plain is divided into pas¬ tures, intersected with drains and dotted with a few white cottages, among which rise the towers of St. Brides, Marshfield, ind Peterstone churches; the Bristol chan¬ nel beyond looks like a continuation of tho surface. Pass through C.aslleton, which takes it’s name from an ancient castle at the bottom of the hill, upon which the en¬ campment of Pen y Park Newydd is sit¬ uated. The only remains are a barrow in the garden of mr. Phillips, supposed to be the site of the citadel, and a stone barn, once a chapel. Continue under the walls of Gwern y Cleppa park, where in the midst of thickets is an old mansion once the re¬ sidence of Ifor Hael, second son of Llew¬ ellyn ap Ifor. The estate came to the fami¬ ly of Tredegar. Continue on the highroad to Tredegar-house, the mansion of the Morgans. The grounds are extensive and diversified, richly covered with groves of oak and Spanish chesnuts, remarkable for theirage, size, and beauty, traversed by the torrent Etrxy. Cross a wooden bridge over this stream. Hence mr. Coxe returned to Newport. On the road to Caerphilly at the dis¬ tance of l^m. is the Gaer, a large encamp¬ ment, supposed to be roman, occupying the brow an eminence near the Ebwy in Trede¬ gar park. A little further is the picturesque little village of Basseleg, 2|m. In this par¬ ish was a Priory of black monks of the ben- edictineorder, founded by Robert de Haye and Gundreda, his wife, between the years 1101 and 1120. No remains of this build¬ ing exist, but a ruin in a wood, about Im. distant from the church called Coed-y-mo- nachty, which is supposed to have been part of the structure. At about Ira. dis¬ tant, near the road to Llanfihangel, is a cir¬ cular encampment called Careg-y-sacsson, but almost obscured by underwood. It’s name has induced some to attribute it to the saxons, but saesson is a term of re¬ proach which the welsh bestow on all for¬ eigners. The entrenchment is a single fossand rampart of earth. About lm. dis¬ tant is another of a similar shape, with loose stones lying in the foss, probably the remains of walls. These fortresses are ap¬ parently british, and a meadow near,called Maes Arthur, records the memory of that celebrated hero. From Bassaleg to the vale of Machen, the country is undulating and fertile. This vale is pleasingly se¬ questered, yet intermixed with wildness and cultivation. The hills which skirt it are partly covered with herbage, and part¬ ly overhung with thick forests. The Rum¬ ney continues the boundary of the two 991 NEWPORT, Mon. 992 counties. Scattered white cottages upon gentle acclivities, the church, and Mach- en hill almost covered with lime-kilns, give variety and cheerfulness to the scen¬ ery. Machen Place lies at the commence¬ ment of the vale, under the hanging groves of Ruperra. A circular apartment, called the hunting-room, is decorated with a rich stuccoed ceiling, representing Diana in the middle, surrounded with seats, church, es, and parties, in 12 compartments. A pair of andirons weigh SOOlbs. which were sometimes employed in roasting an ox whole, with a large oak table, upon which it was served. The last branch of the Morgans, which settled at Machen was Thomas, who, after the death of his father sir William, made additions to Tredegar- house, after which Machen-place was gradually deserted. The Church stands upon the other side of the road, at the dis¬ tance of £m. To the n. of the chancel is a chapel, the burial place of the Morgan family. Beyond this place the vale nar¬ rows, the road running between 2 ridges of hills, overhanging the Rumney. This district yields a greater proportion of corn than any other part of Monmouthshire. A pleasant walk leads from the turnpike a- cross the fields to the church of Bedwas, situated at the foot of the hills, §m. from the highroad. It contains nothing worthy of notice. The view from the yard pro¬ duces on one side the wild hills of Mon¬ mouthshire, on the other a fertile and ex¬ tensive vale, with the majestic battlements of Caerphilly castle appearing like the ruins of a city. The bridge here over the Rumney was built by David Edwards, of Beaupre. Rogeston Castle, an ancient seat of the Morgans, is |m. from Bassaleg ; but few remains of the original structure exist. The level of IVentlog, like that of Caldecot, is perfectly flat, and defended from the sea by embankments. It is a dis¬ trict which stretches from e. to w.between the rivers Usk and Rumney, and from n. to s. between the Bristol channel and the gentle ridge of Tredegar-park, Gwern y Cleppa, Castleton, St. Melon’s and Rum¬ ney. This whole tract has been rescued from the devastations of the sea, by a line of embankments of earth. Mr. Coxe, in company with the rev. mr. Evans, of Caer- au, vicar of St. Woolos, visited several places in this extensive level. From this gentleman mr. Cox declares that he deriv¬ ed the greatest advantages both from his knowledge of the welsh tongue, and his local historic information. ]|m. to the s-w. of Newport, in the level of Mendalgyf are the ruins of Castell Glas, or Green castle, which stand upon the 1 . bank of theEbwy, ' not far from it’s confluence with the Usk. > It formerly belonged the duke of Lancas- J ter. The remains of this once strong and | splendid castle, which stand near the farm¬ house, consist of a building used as a sta¬ ble, a square tower, and other apartments with a fine gothic entrance. It is faced with hewn limestone. At a short distance is a circular mound, surrounded by a foss, probably the site of the ancient keep or citadel. It overhangs the old channel of the Ebwy. The 3 churches of the level are St. Brides, Peterstone, and Marshfield. The grouud is cut into parallel ditches, in some of which the water stagnates, in others it runs in streams called rheens, which fall into the sea through flood-gates, or gouts. The Church of St. Bride’s, in welsh Llansantfryd, is about 35 m. from Newport. The tower is a handsome struc- j ture of hewn-stone. There is a high and narrow gothic arch at the w. end of the church, and two low pointed ones upon clustered pillar, separate a small chapel .j from the chancel. In the porch is a stone indicating the height which the flood rose Jan. 20, 1606. It is about 5 feet from the ground. An inundation happened in 1708, and another about 1795, but neither of them so high as that in 1606. About lm. s. of St. Brides lies Magor, an ancient forti¬ fication. Some walls remain of wonderful thickness. The stones which compose it are foreign. The Church of Peterstone 6 m. to the s-w. of St. Brides, and within £m. of the sea-walls, is a large and elegant edifice for so remote and ill in-habited a district. It is constructed of hewn stone with a gothic tower. The inside is form¬ ed into a nave and side isles, with 2 ranges of pointed arches resting upon clustered pillars. The arches are bulged and the columns have declined from the perpen¬ dicular. The chancel has fallen. Thetop of the tower commands the whole of the level. Marshfield Church is 3|m. from Peterstone near the extremity of the level towards Castleton ; it is built with rub¬ ble stone, plaistered and white-washed, consisting of a square tower or belfry, a nave and chancel. The roof is of wood • NEWPORT, Mon. ' S94 aulted. A narrow pitched road leads to tie swells covered with plantations. Be- lastleton, whence a return may be made y Tredegar to Caerau. The pecu- ar appearance of Twyn Barltvm, and it’s ituation at the extremity of the long ridge f the Mynydd Maen, with it’s steep de- livities and abrupt separation from Mach- n-hill, induced mr. Coxe to ascend it’s ummit. He departed therefore from laerau, and quitting the upper Caerdiff jad, at the hand-post, continued 3m. a- >ng the turnpike leading to Risca, passing ot far from the course of the Ebwy, irough a beautifully wooded country, .caving the Risca road, ascend a steep itch to the canal, cross it over a bridge, nd in a short time come to a cottage a- out 2m. from the village of Henllys. Pass p a gentle acclivity, clothed with copses nd underwood, along a narrow and stony >ath, and in J of an hour reach the bottom fthe hill. Skirt it’s base over some heathy nd boggy ground, and ascend to the top. r wyn Barlwm, (y Twyn a’i far yn Llwm, he hill with a naked summit.) is 6m. in ircumference. [see col. 086 to 987, end- ng “foliage,” inserted there through mis- ake.] Descend down the heathy side of he mountain ; then pass along a narrow >ath, leading through thickets, under the y. extremity of Twyn Barlwm, which is . rocky precipice overhanging the church if Risca. The beautiful glen through vhich the Ebwy flows, seems to open in his descent, and allows a view of the tor- ent from it’s junction with the Sorwy, lowing under the new canal. Entering nto the road a little beyond the church of Risca, continue along a wide and fertile valley, bounded by undulating hills to Newport. See a description of the vales )f Ebwy and Sorwy, under Pont y Pool. Two roads lead from Newport to C aer- leon; one crosses the Usk over the New jridge, and continues along the turnpike IJm. then passes the w. end of Christ- rhurch, descends to the bridge and over ;he Usk to Caerleon ; this is the shortest md most frequented. The other winds •ound Malpas Pill, continues parallel to :he r. bank of the Usk, and enters the n- w. gate of Caerleon. By this road the dis¬ tance is 4^m. The outset is not interest- .ng, but arriving at Christ-church, a pros¬ pect grandly extensive and delightful, sud¬ denly appears. From the foreground de¬ fends a succession of bold knolls, or gen- 33 yond appears the majestic Severn and it’s barks. Opposite, the diversified shores of Somersetshire add greatly to the beauty of the intervening grandeur. To the e. Glo- cestershire and the neighbouring counties exhibit a vast variety of hills, vales, lawns, woods hamlets and villas. Turning from this gay assemblage, the admirer of natural landscape may descend among the adjoin¬ ing plantations of sir Robert Salusbury, messrs. Sykes, Remeys, and Philips, to Cal - decot level, a large tract of land rescued from the sea by human power. Sea-walls have been here erected at a considerable expense, to keep off the sea at high tides and in stormy weather, from inundating the spacious marshes in this district. Some of these walls are built to the height of 12 or 14 feet, falling back from the sea by a gradual slope, each row of stone-facing reclining by a set off, of 2 inches in every foot, and the masonry is flanked by a large embankment of earth. In other parts they are neither so high nor so strong. In the level of Wentlog they are constructed of earth only. These walls extend from the Village of Caldecot, almost the whole way to Goldcliff, and those of Wentlog run 4986 perches. These expensive works are kept in repair by assessed leveys on the proprie¬ tors of the adjoining, lands. The land has been cut into parallel ditches. Near the w. extremity of this plain, rises the penin- sulated promontory of Gold-Cliff, [see col. 986.] Returning to Christ-church, an ordi¬ nary building chiefly gothic, with a saxon arch attracts some notice. In the inside a gothic screen of exquisite workmanship has separated the chancel from the nave, but is shamefully injured. A curious se¬ pulchral monument here is deemed mirac¬ ulous on the eve of the Ascension, in cur¬ ing sick children. Mr. Donovan decyphers the inscription round it’s edges as follows. Hie jacent Johannes Colmer et Isabella uxor ejus qui obierunt anno domini m.ccclxxvi. quorum animabus propicie- tur Deus Amen. According to mr. Wil¬ liams it runs. Hie jacent Johannes Colmar et Isabella uxur ejus, qui obierunt anno domini 1376, quum aiabus ppicietur deus amen. Mr. Coxe reads instead of “ Isabel¬ la” Elizabetha, and instead of “ propicie- tur” he has written miseretur. “ The pre¬ ceding evening,” says he, “being the evening of Trinity Thursday, we were un- 995 NEWPORT, Mon. expectedly present , at the visitation of a large party of the poor infatuated people, to this very tomb-stone. A group had as¬ sembled in the chancel. A young man of very creditable appearance was stretched out upon the bare pavement, with his night cap on, shivering with cold, his hands up¬ lifted, uttering a prayer for the cure of some disorder under which he laboured, During this religious farce, his friends formed a circle round him; some standing, some sitting, 'some kneeling; but all were equally intent in watching the counten¬ ance and emotions of the patient, in ex¬ pectation of the progressive advancement of the miracle to be wrought in conse¬ quence of this superstitious ceremony.” The public house near the church was the ancient manse, A deep descent leads to the antiquated town of Caerleon. By THE LOWER ROAD TO CAERLEON is MalpClS Church, which, tho’ a small building, ap¬ pears to be a curious specimen of the sax- on, or anglo-norman architecture. It lies l^m. from Newport. It is used at present for parochial worship. This Church is formed of unhewn stone, is of an oblong shape, and consists of a nave and chancel, but has neither aisle nor steeple. The ai;ch of the s. window, once a doorway, is rich¬ ly decorated, and embossed with roses, in a style similar to the etruscan; the columns are massy with varied capitals. To Caerleon, 3 miles, Coxe; Barber. — Caerdiff, 11J miles, Skrine; Evans; Donovan; Manby. — Caerphilly, miles, Warner. To and from Pont y Pool and Usk, 32 miles; [see these places] then from Newport to Caer¬ philly, 12^ miles, Wyndham. — Chepsiow, 16 miles. From Fishguard, 7 miles, Barber; Evans; Wynd¬ ham. -Kilgarren, 8 miles, Malkin; Skrine; Fenton- NEWPORT, or Tref Draeth, in the hun¬ dred of Cemaes, Pembrokeshire, appears to have had several streets, one intersecting the other at right angles, and their names indicate that it has been a considerable place. It is now mean, the houses scat¬ tered, a mere skeleton of what it once was. At a distance it’s appearance is more favourable; the place is interspersed with trees, the venerable ruins of it’s castle, and a respectable looking church, form an ag¬ gregate of some interest. About the be- NEWPORT, Pern. Ofie ginning of the 16th century the town of Newport was very populous, and carried on an extensive woollen manufactory, but owing to a great mortality which dealt out desolation, it fell to ruin; even it’s market was discontinued. Fishguard becamp a refuge from the contagion and the health¬ fulness of it’s situation, and other ad¬ vantages has caused that place to preserve a superiority. The harbour is small, and a bar of sand lm. out, is passable only at high water. In 1801 it’s population was 1392 inhabitants, 317 houses. It has one Fair on J uly 27. The Market, on Satur¬ days, has been revived, and the town of late has begun to reassume an increasing trade, and the chasms in it’s streets fill up with buildings. The Castle stands upon a knoll above the town, at the extremity of it’s principal street. The grand entrance was by a gateway between two large bas¬ tions, facing the n.; within it was another with a portcullis. The area of the castle, nearly round, was about 50 paces in diam¬ eter, encompassed with a deep moat. At the w. end are the remains of a magnifi- cent bastion, and two other large ones to the s. and s. e. The principal rooms probably occupied the s-e. portion of the buildings. The mountain of Cam Englyn rises boldly behind it, and the Bay, bound¬ ed by the headlands of Dinas and Ceibwr opens beautifully in front. The Church is a cruciform building, consisting of anave, chancel, and cross aisles, roofed with old oak. The nave is separated from the chan¬ cel and side aisles by plain pointed arches. In the chancel just without the commu¬ nion rails, in the s. wall, are 2 plain stone canopies, one covering a gravestone, the other vacant. On the s. side of the belfry there is an elegant niche for holy-water, and on the w. side of the entrance porch the ruins of a detached building, said to have been the record-office of the town. At the end of the nave issuing from the roof on the outside is a richly wrought spire for a bell. It is a discharged rectory, patron, Thomas Lloyd, esq. dedicated to St. Mary. To Fishguard mr. Malkin took the horse path over the w. side of the mount¬ ain, to the desolate and poor village of Llanichloidng, which is a tedious tract; but the descent to Picton bridge opens some very picturesque scenery where it is least expected. 998 997 NEWPORT, Pem. The High-road to Fishguard, lies near the sea, leaving by the way on the r. Eglwys Dinas , ‘2m. and Capel Llanfihangel, 3m. lm. further cross the Gwayn river, which falls into the sea on the 1. Fishcu ard, 7m. To Fishcuard mr. Fenton made the following circuitous route. Pass 3m. with Cam Englyn on the 1. and the sea on the r. with the bold promontory of Dinas and it’s correspondent headland of CeiLwr here straitening into the Bay of Newport. He then came to a singular cluster of Cistvaens, which he had prepared to ransack. The group consisted of 5 ranged round an over¬ turned Cromlech. “Having removed,” says he, “the lid stones of these cists, and digging down about a foot, through fine mould, I came to charcoal, and soon after discovered urns of the rudest pottery, some particles of bones, and a quantity of black sea pebbles, i opened them all, and with a very trifling variation of their contents found them of the same character.” The result of mr. Fenton’s overthrow of cist¬ vaens and cromlechs is that the former are decidedly sepulchral, but respecting the latter he does not hazard a conjecture. The farm near this place is called the Forest, which seems to indicate that the tract was once covered with trees. The Peninsula of Dinas, is one large farm, sep¬ arated from the continent by a narrow isth¬ mus, which appears to have had a slight agger of earth running across it. The extreme cape or ness, which presents it’s bold fronttothe ocean, isacliffoftremen¬ dous height, the ground of the whole pen¬ insula falling from it in rather an inclined plane. The soil produces excellent crops of corn, the vegetation is quick, the har¬ vest early. The top of Cam Englyn affords a charming prospect of the bays of New¬ port and Fishguard, the vale of Nefern on one side and the vale of Gwayn on the other. It bears marks of early habitation and enclosures. George Owen says, “ The high sharpe rocke over Newport, called Carn Englyn, supposed by the vulgar to take it’s appellative from a Cawr or giant of that name, is a very steepe and stony mountaine, having the toppe thereof sharp, and all rockes shewing from the e. and by n. like the upper part of the capital greek omega Cl. The pasture of this mountaine was given in common by Nicholaus filius Martini, then lord of Kernes, to the bur¬ gesses of his town of Newport, which they enjoy to this day, with divers other freedomes and liberties !to them granted by divers charters yet extant and faire, sealed with his seale of the armes of the saide lordshipp of Kernes, but all of that antiquity that they are sans date. This mountaine is several miles in circuit, and surmounteth all other for good sheep pas¬ ture both for fatting and soundness, and especially commodiouse in this, that noe snowe stayeth on it, by reason of the neer- nes of the sea, and that it is watered with fine and cfeare springes. Frehny-fawr the first and most easterly point of the long Presselly line, and this the last and most w., Carn Englyn, stand as captaine and lieutenant, the one leading the vanne- garde, the other following the rere-warde, among whom Cicm Cerwyn being ncere middway between them, may well, for his high stature overlooking the rest, clayme the place of standard bearer.” Descend by Llystin (full court) now a farm house, once the respectable mansion of Rees Llewhellin ap Owen, one of the 4 sons of Llewhellin ap Owen. Rees had Llystin'; Evan Pentre Evan ; Phillip, Panteg in Welfrcy'; and Owen had Argoed. Cross a murmuring brook, and pass Trewern Waelod, a mansion of a descendent of Gwynfardd, now the property of Edward Warren Jones, esq. In this route almost every mile produces an ancient mansion degradingly altered, deserted, or in ruins ; and like it’s former inhabitants only remem¬ bered by name; these, within the 18th century were the rendezvous of beauty, wit. and festivity. Pentre Evan’ is next approached, now d farm house; in the reign of Henry 7, sir James ap Owen occu¬ pied it in the true style of baronial mag¬ nificence. Upon this tenement, nearer the mountain, stands a Cromlech unques¬ tionably the largest in Wales. The incum¬ bent stone riests upon two' that are colum¬ nar, tapering to a point, with one between which does not quite reach the s. end. The tallest supporter is above 8 feet high, the lowest above 7. The top stone is immense. And much thicker at one end than the other. Iti's 18 feet long, 9 feet broad and 3 feet thick at the heavier end. Leaving this druidic memorial, turn to the 1. and de¬ scending towards the vale of Nefern, pass Argoed, and come to the pretty village of Felmder Marchog, commonly called Col¬ lege, from an old house which appears to 999 NEWPORT, Pem. 1000 have been erected for a school or some port. Sink into the vale, where this stream, collegiate purpose, the beginning of the for a short distance, after it has hurried 17th century, as appears from a date upon down the falls of Gellyfaur, flows lazily the front. It serves, at present, in the ca- through moory meadow land, but soon as- pacity of the village inn. The great road sumes the character which it maintains of from Fishguard to Cardigan goes by this a cigar rapid mountain river. In this vale house, and a little beyond is a painful as- the angler and the draughtsman may find cent. To avoid this, archbp. Baldwyn and ample employ, the Tiver abounding with Giraldus took the road up the vale by a salmon, sewen, and trout, and the land- j bridge over the little river Duad, called scape perpetually varying into subjects Ponty Baldwyn, probably from thiscircum- for the pencil. Upon the borders of this stance. Above College stands Hinllys the vale is Ponlfaen, an ancient mansion, at manor-house of the lords of Cemaes for present belonging to John Philipps Laug- some centuries after the disuse of the Cas- harne, esq. Cilyceithed, was the ancient tie of Newport. A modern farm house residence of David ddu, who settled here now occupies it’s site. Adjoining Hen- soon after the norman usurpation. This llys is Cwmgloyne, the only mansion in this estate came to the late sir Wm. Hamil- neighbourhood which has not been meta- ton, by his first lady, miss Barlow, and morphosed into a farm house and stripped is now the property of his nephew the of it’s surrounding woods. ThomasLloyd, hon. Robert Greville. Morville not far esq. a profound antiquary, was the late distant, is memorable as the spot where proprietor of this place, in whom an an- the welsh mountaineers made a firm stand cient family became extinct; for dying a against the norman power; which became bachelor, he left his estate by will to united to the vast estate of Orielton. Gel- Maurice Williams, esq. the present occu- lygelynen once was the reception of the pant. Regaining the vale, take the road females of the houses of Picton and Wis* over Pont y Baldwyn, come to the ruined ton, but merged by marriage in Morville. house of Wenallt. Higher up the vale, Cronllwyn, was a favourite spot of sir Wil- which here contracts and assumes 3 ro- liam Martin. Opposite, upon the other mantic appearance, upou the brow of a hill side the river, stands Court, a handsome which overlooks the beauties below, is modern mansion belonging John Gwynn, auother mansion, called Penybenglog, esq. Adjoining, is the church of Llanlla- which once ranked with the first of it’s t oer, where is a sainted well, abundantly day. Of this house was Howel Gawr. supplied with the puiest water. Llanych- Hence ascend Moel Eryr, the highest point lloydoc, is a little higher upon the banks of next to Cwm Cerwyn in the whole Pres- the Gwayn, asituation most beautifully re- selly range. It’s summit is formed into a tired and picturesque. It is said to have perfect cone by a stupendous carnedd. been founded by Clydawc, a regulus of the To the 1. of this mountain, taking an ob- country, whose grave is marked by 2 up- lique direction along the s. side of it, right stones, still visible in the yard. Both portions of the old roman road, running w. these churches serve to enrich the rectory may be distinctly traced, from the first of Dinas. Llanllaxuer mountain terminates process of an open foss to the perfect inarocky nipple, which is called the Afaid- raised pavement. It’s course e. from en’s Breast, tho’ it seems not to resemble Bwlchgwynl, through the deep turbary, up- that fascinating uncontaminated hemis- on the flat above, in which it is buried, is phere, except in mere roundness. Upou marked by the upright stones placed there, the side are profusely scattered several From this height the whole country to St. druidic relics, as Meini hirion, sites of David’s may be seen. Loventium lies to primeval population, and carneddau. Enter the e. and Menapia to the w. This ancient the parish of Fishcuabd. road has been attributed to the Flemmings On the road to Cardigan, at the dis- without a probability. From Mocl Eryr tance of 2m. occurs the village of Nefern. descend by Cilgwyn, a chapel of ease to The old cross, mentioned by Camden, re- the extensive parish of Nefern; a very mains in the s. side of the Church-yard. It ancient structure. In this neighbour- is a single stone 2 feet broad, 18 thick, and hood is the source of the Gwayn, rising out 13 high; neatly carved on all sides, with of the Perselly hill in the n. side of Windy knot-work of various patterns. The top 1002 1001 NEWPORT, Pern. NEWTON NOTTAGE. is circular, charged with a cross; below are other crosses, and about the middle an in¬ scription. On the n. side of the yard was another irregular shaped stone, 2 yards high, with this inscription; viTATtANi emeriti. The latter of these stones has been removed. The inside of the church is not paved, and the frequent burials in it have raised the ground 7 or 8 feet high¬ er than it is without. The parish is pleas¬ antly situated upon the banks of a beauti¬ ful little river of the same name, whence rises the n-w. extremity. This neighbour¬ hood abounds with druidic antiquities. Sir Richard Hoare thought that the cromlech, or temple at Pentre Efan in Nefern parish, surpassed in size and height any he had seen in Wales, or in England, Stonehenge and Abury excepted. Round it is a circle of rude stones 150 feet in circumference. Mr. Malkin however found that the crom¬ lech at Dryffryn-house, on the road from Cowbridge to CaerdifF, is larger than this at Pentre Efan. [see col. 412.] Upon a hill above the church is the site of the Cas- trum de Llanhefer, mentioned by Giraldus. The tradition of this Iter of Baldwyn is still commemorated by the name of a bridge over the river Duad, called Pont Baldwyn. There is a fine cromlech called Llech y drybed on the sea coast between Nefern and Cardigan, having a furrow in the flat stone. Behind the beautiful little river Nefern, rises the n-w. extremity of the chain of mountains called Percelly. This high table land runs in a direction from n- e. to s-w., commencing near Capel Betlws in Caermarthenshire, and terminates at Dy- nas on the sea coast. The ridge is broken into several distinct mountains, and in front to what is named Percelly. The high¬ est peak is called Cicm Cerwyn, which serves as a landmark at sea. On the sum¬ mit, a prodigious extent of prospect opens to the inquisitive taaveller. In front, a wild hilly tract, yet not undiversified with patch¬ es of cultivation, stretches nearly to the northern confines of S. Wales, where the pale summit of Plinlimmon, in Montgom¬ eryshire, might be just distinguished from the atmospheric blue. More w. beyond a vast expanse of sea, appears Bardsey-island, and the neighbouring shores in Caernar¬ fonshire. On looking over the miserable country about Fishguard and St. Davids, it is said, that on a clear day the mountains of Ireland may be perceived. On looking backward, the whole of the interesting country in the neighbourhood of Milford- haven appears in one comprehensive tho’ distant display. A road passes over this ridge called the Flemish way, which is evi¬ dently the remains of a roman road, and doubtless led from Maridunum to Mena- pia. Heaps of huge stones lie about the summits and sides, like those of the Snow¬ don chain. Percelly abounds with peat which furnishes employment to the poor. Numerous flocks in this districtare attend¬ ed by shepherds, who shelter and sleep in huts in the adjacent vales. The principal part of the fleecy produce is sent out of the county in a raw state : yes, out of that very county where the Flemings settled, and introduced the woollen manufacture, and to whom we owe this staple trade ! Inoc¬ ulation for the small pox has been prac¬ tised here time immemorial, which they perform by the point of a needle dipped in the infectious matter. The village of Felindre is formed chiefly of mud-built cottages covered with thatch. A few miles out of the road to the 1. arc the ruins of St. Dogmael’s Priory. A noble stone bridge of 7 arches announces the county town of Cardigan. From Newport, mr. Skrine had the plea¬ sure of quitting a dreary coast to pursue an excellent new-made road to the 1. of the heights of Procelle, [Percelly] and soon reached the sylvan and well-cultivated dis¬ trict surrounding Haverfordwest. Taking an inland direction, he pursued the great road through the heart of Pembrokeshire, passing through the irregular town of Nar- berth, graced with the picturesque ruins ofit’scastle. At the village of St. Clares, he re-entered the county of C aermarthen, and soon reached it’s capital. To Cardigan, 8 miles, Wyndham; Skrine; Bar¬ ber; Evans. — Fishguard, 7 miles, Malkin; Fenton. — CaerdifF, 12 miles. — Chepstow, 16 miles. NEW RADNOR. See Radnor, /////A// From Pyle, 4 miles, Barber. -Cowbridge, 12 miles, Donovan. — Bridgend, 4 miles, Evans. NEWTON NOTTAGE, in the hundred of Newcastle, Glamorganshire, as a bath- 1003 NEWTON NOTTAGE. NEWTOWN. 1004 ing place, possesses, in an eminent degree, the advantage of seclusion. The house, however, is small, fitted up only for two or three families. There is no inn in this place, but at a little distance below is a soli¬ tary village of public resort. To the e. of the bathing-house is a small bay. The Church here is a rectory, the patronage is in three manors. The population of this parish in 1801 was 209. It contains 2000 acres, about one half of which is inclosed. Some say the name of this place should be Newton Nannage. Upon the adjacent sands and along the sea-coast, mr. Dopo- van gathered the Salix fusca, Myrica gale, Geranium maritimum, Trifolium maritir mum, andTrifolium arvense, (3. Upon five heathy rabbit-burrows l^m. from New¬ ton, he found the Cnironia pulchella. At a short distance is the well, mention-, ed by Camden (now called Sandford’s) which ebbs and flows reversely with the tide of the sea. From the highland of Newton-down may be seen the range of hills'forming the opposite boundary of the vale of Cow- bridge, in which a bold hill crowned with Penline Castle is eminently conspicuous.. Beyond the wide bay of Swansea, the whitened habitations of Ostermouth catch the eye; the sulphureous clouds revolving from the works of Swansea and Neath are only divided by the projection of Cilway hill; and the picturesque knolls of Britton- ferry appear sunk into comparative little¬ ness beneath the towering dimensions of Margam’s shady mountain. From Newton mr. Donovan made an ex¬ cursion to Oc more Castle; At a few miles distance, near Margam, stands Cynfeg Castle, said to have been a residence of De Esterling. [see Margam.] To Ogmore Castle 5 miles, Barber. — Ewenny Priory, on the road to Pyle, 5 miles, Donovan. — Margam, 8 miles, Evans. From Welshpool, I5j miles, Skrinc; Bingley. - Montgomery, 8-j miles, Wynclham; Evans. — Llanfyllin, 16 ifiiles, Pennant. Back from Llanidloes, Pennant; Evans. From Knighton, 21 miles. NEWTOWN, in the hundred of the same name, Montgomeryshire, called by the Welsh Tre Newydd, is situated on the banks pf the Severn, by which it is nearly sur¬ rounded. It contains several streets. The houses are mostly half-timbered, or timber framed, the intermediate spaces being fillr ed with lath and plaster, like the buildings of Llanidloes. The Church, is an ancient structure, dedicated to St. Mary, a rectory; patron, the bishop of St. Asaph. An ele- j gant screen, which separates the chancel ; from the nave, is adorned with various devices, but it is absurdly bedizened with gilding. The small altar-piece over the' communion table contains apicture, which was painted by Dyer the poet. The antique Font and Screen are said to have been brought from the abbey of Cwmhir, in Rad¬ norshire. Several woollen manufactories are carried on here, principally flannels, Which before Ihe introduction of machin¬ ery employed many hands. The resi¬ dent population of this parish in 1801, con¬ sisting of only one township, called Dyf- fryn Llan Fair, was 990. The Market is on Tuesday. The Fairs are on the last Tues¬ day in March, 24th of June, the lastTues- day iq August, 24th of October, and 15th of Depember. It hasia post office, and a Town-Hall, but no corporation. It was formerly called Llan Fair Ynghedewain, or St. Mary’s in the cantref of Cydewain. Newtown Hall, the seat of sir John Pryse, stands in a fine park, which stretches al¬ most close to the town. The family is de¬ scended from Elystan Glodrydd, one of the 5 royal tribes; which became possessed of this place about the time of Henry 6. The late owner sir John Pryse, married S wives. The first 2 he kept after their de¬ mise in an embalmed state, placing them in his chamber one on each side of his bed. The 3d, however, admitting no rivalship ei¬ ther by the living or the dead, refused to supply their vocations till their remains were displaced. He outlived the 3d to whom he had transferred a large portion of affection. He had the folly however to be¬ lieve that a woman named Bridget Bostock coujd restore her to life, and sent for her to Newtown-hall to exert her miracle-work¬ ing powers, but without any effect. The principal Inns here are the Bear and Red-lion. On the banks of the Severn, distant 4m. from Newtown, stands the remains of Cas- tel DolJ'orwyn (the castle of the virgin’s meadow), stationed upon the summit of a lofty cone-shaped hill, of steep ascent, com¬ manding a view of the contiguous coun¬ try. It is surrounded by a wooded dingle, 1005 NEWTOWN. 1006 whence rises a small stream, which run¬ ning for nearly lm. falls into the Severn. On the accessible sides of the hill deep trenches are cut through the solid rock. Evans, in his “ Diss. de Bardis,” says it was erected by Bledd yn ap Cynfin, be¬ tween the year 1065 and 1073 ; but Dug- dale dates it much lower, saying it was built by Dafydd ap Llewellyn; about the year 1242. The building has been quad¬ rangular, about 50 yards Jong and 25 wide, but of np great strength. A small part of the n. wall, with some trifling remains of the interior are yet left. Antiquariesare not agreed as to the time and person who founded this structure. “The meadow of the virgin” is supposed to allude to the story of Hahren or Ahren, the daughter of Locrinus, son of Brutus, the first king of Britain, by Essyllt, a daughterof the king of Germany, whom he had taken captive in his wars against Humyr, king of the Huns. Locrinus had however previously espous¬ ed himself to Gwendolen, a daughter of Corineus, who had entered the island with Brutus, and who threatened to come a- gainst him with an army if he refused to fulfil his promise. Locrinus therefore con¬ cealed Essyllt and declared he had sent her out of the kingdom andsubmitted to marry Gwendolen. Corineus died a short time afterwards. Locrinus then immediately divorced Gwendolen, and declared Essyllt liis queen. When Locrinus died Gwen¬ dolen assumed the government, and with unrelenting cruelty, caused Essyllt and a daughter named Abren, which she had borne to Locrinus, to be thrown into the river and drowned. From this circum¬ stance the river, it is supposed, assumed the name of Abren, afterwards Sabrina, and lastly Severn. [See Milton’s exqui¬ site description of Sabrina in the Masque of Comus.”] One mile and £ on the road to Buallt is a cataract, but not worth much loss of time. Near the castle grows Reseda luteola. The roman station of Coer Sm lies at the distance of 6m. w. from Newtown, on the Severn. It is now an in¬ considerable hamlet; yet tradition says that it formerly extended from Aber-hav- esp to Ystrad-faelawg. The site of the ro¬ man encampment is at this day discern- able, being a quadrangular rampart about 150 yards square. In the s-w. angle was dug up, about 20 years ago, some roman brick and mortar which were used in building a chimney of a publiC-house hard by. The adjacent inclosures intersecting each other at right angles, are said to repre¬ sent the numerous streets it once consisted of; and the hollows it’s ancient fosses. On the n. side are the remains of a rampart called Gusyn Fynydd; on e. Rhos Ddiarbed, or the marsh where no quarter was given, in the parish of Llnnddinam ; where, be¬ sides entrenchments, there is a large bar- row'; and at a place called Cefn Carnedd, on the w. side, are similar remains. Upon the s. side is a vast mount ot a conical shape, surrounded by a prodigious wide foss; at the n. extremity is an oblong area of various width, it’s greatest diameter be¬ ing about 70 yards. This is defended on all sides by a lofty vallum and deep foss. In the lower part is a porta, or entrance way, that opens into a large rectangular camp, about 200 yards long, and more than 100 broad. At the other extremity, in an opposite direction, is another porta, the whole encompassed with a foss and val¬ lum. By the side of Gwynfynnydd is easily traceable the roman road, called Sam Szcsan. It runs in a direction from Caer'Sws to Meifod ; and it’s vestiges are distinctly visible as far as the banks of the Fyrnwy, near Llyssin. The late dr. Wor¬ thington pursued this road to Yslrad favor, near Coed y Clawdd, in the parish of Rhaia- dyr yn Mochnant; thence crossing Rhos y Brith dir to Pen y street, it passed through Lam-jwrch to Caerfach, supposed to have been a small roman camp ; the termination appeared to be at Chester. Others say that this road enters the parish of Llanerfyl on the hillsof the Drum, and passes through a bog called Cors-y-Fisog, now impassable; thence it lies across the moors in a direct line to Bztilch y drum, andCinniwyll, where it crosses the Banwy below Keuadd teen ? and then up Craig y go, entering the parish of Llanfihangel at Rhyd pont ystyllod. Tho’ it is mostly covered with a thick grass, yet it may be easily discovered at some dis¬ tance in the shape of a ridge, as in lands which have been formerly ploughed; and the pavement lies a little below the sur¬ face. The quarries where the stones have been raised from, and the sites of the work¬ men’s huts are still discernable.—Cam¬ brian Itin. In this rugged district are the mountains of Carno, celebrated for the mos^ sanguinary battle recorded in the Welsh 1007 NEWTOWN. 1008 annals. It was fought in the year 1077, be- the rugged mass ofFreiddin. On the 1. is the tween the forces under Gryffydd ap Cynan, house of Faenor, once the property of the the legal heir to the throne of N. Wales, Pryses. Descend into the vale, cross the Se- joinedby the army of Rhys ap Temdmr, vern, and pass along the road through the prince of S. Wales, and the collected pow- midst of a roman camp, called the Gaer, er of Trahaern ap Caradoc, the assumptive seatedintheparish,orchapelry otFordin. A monarch. The contest was fierce, every little beyond, near the house of 'Nant-cribba, inch of ground being disputed with valour rises a great conoid rock, "the base of the and obstinacy. After a bloody conflict, rockissurroundedwithaditch.cutthrough Trahaern was slain, his army completely it, leaving only a narrow pass of the fort, defeated and Gryffydd was put in posses- At a distance is another trench. Offa's ditch sion of that crown and sceptre which his lies about 200 yards from the rock. En- ancestors had worn. Above Llanddinam ter a part of Shropshire, at Walcot, and church, on the top of the hill, is a remark- keeping s. soon reach Chirbury, a church able fortress, called Y Gaer fychan, or the and village, which gave name to the hun- little fortress, marked by several fosses, dred, and title to the celebrated chivalrous and probably, from the shape, a british knight Edward lord Herbert; a man of ex¬ post. The Church of Llanddinam stands traordinary abilities, and yet by some ac- pleasantly on the abrupt rising, which juts counted mad. Near this village stood a out like a promontory into the vale. A priory of Benedictines, founded in thereign small lake in this vicinity still retains the of king John. Two miles further is the | appellation of Llyn yr Afrange, or the bea- town of Montgomery. On this road ver’s pool; which confirms the assertion grows the Dipsacus pilosus. of Giraldus that beavers were found in his By taking the lower road to Llanid- time. A beautiful road conducts the trav- loes the arduous and difficult passes of the eller to Llanidloes, Berth-Llmyd, the re- Car no mountains are avoided. Thistractof mains of an ancient house being by the country is enriched both by nature and cul- way. tivation ; uniting objects which please by From Newtown to Montgomery, the their tranquil beauty, and those which sur- infant Severn accompanies the road nearly prise by theirstupendous grandeur; woods, half the way. The few houses at Abermule orchards, verdant pastures, cultivated (the conflux of the river Mule), 5m. from fields, neat farms, gentlemen’s seats, and Newtown, are delightfully situated on the wooden bridges of rustic workmanship, bank of the Severn, surrounded by hills Even the road is highly picturesque; for as and decorated by woods. Hence the road the vale is contracted by lofty hills, their gently ascends, and from the eminence, a bases are fringed with close hanging most extensive and admirable view is dis- woods ; the most considerable of which covered. On his way to Montgomery, are those of Berthlwyd, beneath are there- mr. Pennant skirted a hilly country, chief- mains of an old mansion belonging to the ly through narrow lanes, to see the church ancient family of the Llwyds. On the n. of Bettws, lying in a bottom, l^m. from side of these woods is the small lake called Dolferwyn Castle, formerly belonging to Llyn yr Afrange. The Great road the nunnery of Llanlugan. The steeple continues with the river Severn on the r. makes a conspicuous figure. Itwasbuilt, all the way to Llanidloes. Leave onther. as an inscription denotes, in 1531, by it’s Great Faenor, ljm. and Penestrywad, l£m. vicar John Meredyth under the curious About lm. beyond on the r. is Aberhufesp - title of Campanile, for Templi Pyramis. A hall, lm. further pass Red-house, and lm. portrait of him appears upon a brass plate, beyond on the r. Maes maur, Pryce Davies, fastened to one of the walls. A little fur- esq. Llandinam, Ifm . Berth-du, Maurice ther, upon the top of a hill on the 1. is a Stephens, esq. 3m. Pen yr hylan, lfm. great exploratory mount. On the same Dolmen, 2m. Near Llanidoes, 2±m. leave range is a post, called Pen y gaer, surround- on the r. Berth Llwyd, an ancient mansion, edby 3 trenches. From a hill called Cefyn for centuries the residence of the Llwyds, Uppol, is a delightful view of the vale of colaterally descended from Tudor Trefor. Severn; the river; and beyond appear the Mr. Wyndham passed from Newtown long extent of Cerri hills, Corndon hill, to Llandrindod, taking on his way Llan- Longment, theTitterstone Clee hill, and badern fynydd, 11m.; Llandmy, 5m. This 1009 NEWTOWN. is a small village, situated in a narrow vale near the river Ithon, containing a few straggling houses, and the church, a toler¬ able structure, consisting of a nave and chancel with 2 small tablets, in commem¬ oration of Philips and Burton ; the latter of whom, an eccentric character, resided in a large old house here, and possessed a con¬ siderable estate in the neighbourhood, which, to the exclusion of his relatives, because they were poor, he devised to a wealthy provincial. In this district are several vestiges of antiquity, particularly the Gaer, or fortification, which occupies the summit of a high hill close to the vil¬ lage, and apparently a camp of great ex¬ tent, being inaccessible on the Ithon side; the remainder is defended by two parallel intrenchments, probably the work of some of the Mortimers or Cadwallader, in the I2th century. Upon a hill opposite is Bedel Ygre, or Ugre’s Grave, a large mound or tumulus of earth, encompassed by a small moat like Caesios. Of this description were all the monuments which the ancient Britons erected in honour of their chiefs or great men. This mode of interment con¬ tinued many ages before and after the in¬ troduction of Christianity; but, when the custom of burying in churches and church yards became general, they were con¬ demned, and afterwards, chiefly used for criminals. Two m. hence, upon a small elevation stood Castle Cymaron, of which not a fragment of the superstructure re¬ mains, the site and moat are still visible. This fortress is supposed to have been e- rected by the normans in the 11th century, It was soon after destroyed by the Welsh, but again rebuilt. Llanbadern Fawr, 3m. From Newtown on the road to Mall- wyd, nearly to Llanwnnog, distant 7m., is a pleasing district, the vale of the Sev¬ ern and it’s attendant mountains lying up¬ on the 1. After reaching Llanwnog, the vale of Carno is seen on the r. and upon the 1. is a succession of mountains. 4m. further pass the village of Llancarno, and thence proceeding 7m. turn to the r. im¬ mediately on approaching a turnpike gate, quitting the Machynllaeth road. De¬ scend into a deep, well-wooded dell which expands into a valley, a branch of the river Dovey murmurs along the bottom, the mountains towering on each side to a pro¬ digious height. [The pedestrian would NORTHOP. 1010 omit much by accepting the carriage road which proceeds to Machynlleath, through the before mentioned turnpike gate, dis¬ tant thence 9m. which at Machynllaeth makes an acute angle to Mallwyd.] The road next opens into a fine expanded vale, bounded at some distance on the s-w. by black precipices, which again contracts, 4m. distant from Cammaes, and soon af¬ ter winds to the r. up a steep ascent, whence the vale just quitted is finely con¬ trasted with a more wild and very moun¬ tainous country. The great road to Machynllaeth, lies across the Severn to Aberhafesp and church, 3m. If. (on the r. Aberafesp-hall, H. Proc¬ tor, esq.) Llanwenog, 3m. 3f. Carno, 4]m. Pemjbont, Cm. If. (on the r. is Dolgadfen, mrs. Griffiths, 8m. from Penybont, on the r. is a road to Dinas-mouthy, 8^m.) Pene- gos, and Church, 9m. 5f. Machynllaeth, lm. 5f. To Llanfair, mr. Evans took the old road over the mountains, (which he found toilsome and irregular) for the sake of ex¬ amining the ruins of Dolferwyn castle. The usual road to Llanfair leaves Hanllwchaiarn on the banks of the Severn to the r. proceeding n. to Red-House, 2m. (a little beyond is a road which strikes off to Aberhafesp 3m. on the 1., to the r. from this turning lies Castell Dbl Forwyn, 2m.) pass Highgate, on the r. where keep to the 1. instead of going directly forward to Bet- tws, on the Pool road, Llidiartaderyn, ]m. (lm. further a road branches to the 1. to Gregynnog, the seat of Charles Hanbury, esq. This is an old family mansion, re¬ markable chiefly as the hospitable resi¬ dence of Arthur Blayney, esq. [see col. 773.] Having passed 2]m. a road to the 1 . leads to Llanwyddelan, lm., and ]m. further pass Mallmason, on the r., lm. fur¬ ther leave PlasJolyn, on the 1. Llanfair, lm. To Montgomery, Smiles, Pennant; Bingley. — Llanidloes, 13 miles, Pennant; Skrine. — Llandrindod, 23 miles, Wyndliam. — Llanfair, 14 miles, Evans. — Mallwyd, 29 miles. — Bishop’s Castle, !6£ miles. — Machynllaeth, 28] miles. From Euloe Castle, 5 miles, Bingley. - Mold, 4 miles, Bingley. -Flint, 3 miles, Pennant; Wyndliam. NORTHOP, or LLAN EURGAIN, in the hundred of Coleshill, Flintshire. The 1011 NORTHOP. Church is long and embattled ; the tower lofty and handsome. It is a rectory and vicarage; the rectory a sinecure annexed to the bishoprick of St. Asaph, dedicated to St. Ehrgain. The population of this parish, including the townships of Coer •Faliwch,Cilstaym, Golflyn, Lendbrook major, Leadbrook minor, Northop, Sychlyn, and Wybre, in 1801 was 2212. The market is on Saturday. The Fairs are held March 14, July 7, and Oct. 12. Here are 2 Schools, one founded in 1606, for the children of the parish, and for one boy from each of the parishes of Cwm, Flint, Holywell, and St. Asaph : the other is for 10 poor girls of the parish. The petty Sessions are holden here every other month. It is a post-office town. The parish contains about 6000 acres, nearly the whole of which is culti¬ vated. “ There is a farm house called Mo- ■nachlog, i. e. the Monastery, in the town¬ ship of Northop, which stands on Watt’s Dyke. Lead ore is found in the township of Caer Fallwch: and the two Lcadbrooks doubtless derive their names from the old smelting hearths which lie a little below Leadbrook house, near the extremity of the Brook; here the romans smelted the lead ore, which was obtained from Halkin mountain, and the neighbourhood. A vein of coal lies under most part of the parish. About lm. n-w. from the church, is the site, surrounded by a moat, of Llys Edwin. Edwin was lord of Tegeingl, in the middle of the tenth century, and one of the 15 tribes of N. Wales. Northop is supposed to have taken it’s name from being n. of Hope, called East or Queen’s Hope.”— Rev. Hugh Jones, to mr. Carlisle. Turning on the r. from this place out of the usual road from Chester to Holywell towards Fliut, at about 2m. from the slope of a hill, at the bottom of which stands the town, the scenery opens in a most pleasing manner. The estuary of the Dee, which runs towards Chester is frequently enli¬ vened by the vessels “ lightly floating on it's surface,” the towns of Park-gate, and some others on the opposite shore appear to peculiar advantage. At the ebb of the tide this wide arm of the sea dwindles into a narrow stream, inclosed on each side by long and dreary banks of sand. In addition to the foregoing, mr. Bingley says, “ It is not worth the time of any tourist to follow my route to Flint, as he will find there scarcely any thing worth his notice." NORTHWICH. 1012 Having passed a bridge, a little beyond the ninth mile-stone from Chester, turning to the r., over some meadows is Euloe- Castle. To Flint, 3 miles, Bingley. — Holywell, miles, Bingley. Euloe-Casile, 10 miles, Pennant. — Hawarden,6 miles, Wyndharo. — Mold, 4 miles. — Chester, 11| miles. Commencement of Mr. Gilpin’s tour into North Wales on his way from Manchester. NORTHWICH in Cheshire, has a weekly market on Friday, by prescription, and two fairs, Aug. 2, and Dec. 6. In con¬ sequence of the extention of the salt trade population has of late years increased rap¬ idly, much corn is sold here, and the fairs continue nearlya fortnight each, for York¬ shire and Manchester goods, and other commodities. In the reign of Charles 1, there were 165 salt works connected with brine-pits. [Harl. mss. 2010 , f. 257.]] The annual average of white salt sent down the Weever from Winsford and Northwich, I during 10 years ending 1810, has been 139,317 tons, chiefly for supplying the fisheries in Scotland, Ireland, ports of the Baltic, America, Newfoundland, and the british colonies. Marshall and Naylor, of Anderton, obtained in 1806, a patent for making a large grained salt, with less ex¬ pense than formerly. In 1781 fossil salt was discovered at Northwich, 42 yards be¬ low clay and marl variously compounded; the bed 25 yards in thickness. Ten yards below another bed was found, and pene¬ trated into, to the depth of 35 or 36 yards. Some of the mines are worked in a circular form three hundred yards in diameter. In 1805 there were 2950 hands employed in the manufacture of salt. Sir Wm. Bre- reton fortified Northwich for the parlia¬ ment in the beginning of the year 1643. Sir John Birkenhead author of Mercurius Aulicus, was born here, 1615, the son of a sadler. This township was purchased by mr. Arthur Hey wood, of Liverpool, in 1808. The townships of Castleton or Castle Northwich , and Wilton, adjoin to Northwich. “ Near this town is shewn one ol the greatest curiosities in England. In novels we often read of inchanted castles. Here is seen, what may be called an inchanted cathedral. The road to it indeed is not the most convenient. You arc let down in a 1014 1013 NORTH WICH. basket, through an opening in the earth, at least 150 feet. But this gives it only a more romantic air. When you arrive at the bottom you find yourself in a most magni- ficentstructure. For what purpose design¬ ed, or by what art contrived, and thus e- rected in the bowels of the earth, you are at a loss to conceive. The largest cathedral compared to it, is a mole-hill near a moun¬ tain. It’s arched roof is formed of splendid chrystal; and is supported by innumerable rows of pillars composed of the same rich material. The pavement glitters like glass. Windows it cannot have so much beneath he surface, but windows are unnecessary ; t is illumined by various lights hung up a- mong the pillars which being reflected rom bright surfaces in every direction, are multiplied into thousands. One may almost ipeak of them in the language of poetry. From the arched roof, pendant by subtil magic, many a row of starry lamps, and i,lazing crescents, fed with napiha, and asphaltus, yielded light as from a sky. In some parts of this superb edifice, the ornaments appear to be gothic ; in others, grecian, but as you examine it nicely, you find it cannot exactly be reduced to the rules of any order. In short, it appears to he an amazing piece of perspective, con¬ structed in a mode of architecture wholly it’s own. I am sorry to descend from these ofty ideas by adding, that I have only been lescribing the salt-pitsat Northwich. And yet I have no doubt, but if any one, unac¬ quainted with them, should be let down in his sleep, and left to awake at his leisure , he would find this description fall short of the first idea that would strike him.”— Gilpin’s “ Observations, &c.” The salt- mines of Cheshire are found near the cen¬ tre of a large plain formed by the s, parts of Lancashire and n. extremity of Shrop¬ shire, and the intervening county of Che¬ shire. The plain is subdivided into 3 ; the bason of the Dee on the w.; of the Mer¬ sey on the n. ; and ihe Weaver in the mid¬ dle. In this middle district, (somewhat resembling the sector of a circle having it’s centre at the point where the Weaver falls into the Mersey, the circumference stretching along the borders of Flintshire, Shropshire, and Staffordshire) are found the salt mines, which with few exceptions exist only in the vallics of the Weaver and it’s tributary streams. At Winsford, North- mch, Andcrton, Lawton, Roughwood, IVhee - lock , and Middlewich, where all the prin¬ cipal saltworks are situated, the brine springs contain between '25 and 26 per cent, of the pure muriate of soda. The brine being pumped out of the pits, is con¬ veyed into large reservoirs, and afterwards drawn off as it is wanted, into evaporating pans, made of iron. Here heat is applied in a degree determined by the nature of the salt iniended to be produced. The Cheshire Salt Manufacture sends to Liver¬ pool for exportation 140,000 tons, besides disposing of 16,000 tons annually for home consumption. These springs occur in sev¬ eral parts of the Cheshire plain, but the Rock Salt has only been worked into near the banks of the Weaver, and it’s tribu¬ taries. Salt rock was first discovered at Marbury near Northwich about the year 1671, in searching for coal. After thisbed of rock had been worked for more than a century, a 2d and inferior stratum was met with, separated by abed of indurated clay. This stratum possesses at a certain depth, a great degree of purity. The depth at which the upper bed of salt rock is found, varies from 29 to 40 yards. The thickness of the upper bed is from 20 to 30 yards; that of the lower bed has not been ascertained. At Lawton, near the source of the river Wheelock 3 distinct beds were found, separated by indurated clay. It is certain that no marine exuviae or organic remains have been found in the strata which lies over the rock-salt. The uni¬ versal occurrence of gypsum, in connection with beds of fossil salt seems a general¬ ly received fact. This connection appears in the salt mines of Hungary, Transyl¬ vania, and Poland, as well as in those of Cheshire. The great body of the salt-rock, in both strata is composed of chrystals of muriate of soda, intimately mixed with certain proportions of earthy salts, sul¬ phate of lime, and muriates of lime and magnesia. In every part separate chrys- taline concretions of muriate of soda are found, of a greyish or milk-white colour. A most striking appearance in the hori¬ zontal sections of the rock is observable in various figures, more or less distinctly marked, of various forms ; some appearing nearly circular ; some segments of circles, onesucceeding theotherlike waves, when traced horizontally along averticalsection, answering to the concentric layers, de¬ scribed by mr Hutton, in his theory of the 1015 NOllTHWICH. OGMORE CASTLE. 1016 earth ; others appear pentagonal, and o- Ihers have an irregular polyhedral form. The lines which form the boundaries of these figures are composed of extremely pure fine salt, forming a division between the coarse red rock exterior to the figure, and the equally coarse rock within it’s area. The comparative commercial value of the English and Polish mines is best as¬ certained by the fact that many thousand tons of rock-salt are annually sent from Cheshire to the parts of the Prussian coast most nearly adjacent to the salt mines.— Transactions of the Geological Society, i, 58—57. On the way to Chester enter upon Delamere forest, which, tho’ a wild, heathy country, affords the ground-plot of a noble scene. The parts are large, with many considerable hills, and smaller inequalities. The intersections among them are often pleasing. This forest continues a gentle rise through the space of 6 or 7m. Yet gen¬ tle as it is, continued through so long a tract, the ascent becomes considerable; and when we approach the end of the for¬ est, we find ourselves mounted upon a vast terrace, whence the extent is far and wide, over a flat country, bounded by the welsh mountains, under which appear in remote distance, the windings of the Dee, and the towers of Chester. In the middle space stands Beeston Castle, seated proudly upon the brow of a rocky insulated hill. The outer court includes a considerable space of ground; it is of an irregular form, with several round towers. The keep, is surrounded with a deep ditch, sunk in the solid rock, over which it was entered by a draw-bridge. The entrance was defended by two circular towers, still remaining. The approach under this gate-way is very narrow, by rugged steps cut out of the rock. Mr. Gilpin thought this castle the most impregnable in England. The hill is certainly steep and rocky, opposing all ac¬ cess, but by a single path on the e. It was built about the year 1220, by Ranulph de Blundeville, earl of Chester, and equal in strength to the situation it occupies. It was supplied with water from a well hewn through at least 100 yards of solid rock. Tho’ now in ruins, this castle was strong enough, so late as the last civil wars to un¬ dergo two vigourous sieges. It took the part of the king. The parliament troops assaulted it during four months, when they were beaten off by prince Rupert. In the following year it supported a still longer siege, and was at length reduced. Ruina¬ ted as it now is, the country people in it’s neighbourhood depend still on a prophecy, that in some future time Beeston-castle shall be restored and contribute to the safe¬ ty of England. To Chester, 18 miles, Gilpin. — Manchester, 21 miles. From Newtown, 5 miles, Donovan ; Barber, OGMORE CASTLE, is situated on the e. bank of the river Ogmore, near the road to Cowbridge, in Glamorganshire. It’s re¬ mains are inconsiderable, consisting of the keep and some outer walls. Caradoc says that the manor and castle of Ogmore were given to William de Londres by Fitzham- mon. So that it’s foundation may be dated prior to the Norman conquest. The manor courts are still held in a thatched hovel near it. This place seems to have been entire when Leland wrote his Itinerary, which he calls Ogor castle. At a short distance s-e. of the castle are several pits or shallows filled with water, said to have sunk spontaneously ; one of them is deem¬ ed unfathomable; it is circular, measur¬ ing about 7 feet in diameter; a hedge has been made round it to prevent cattle from falling in. According to the custom of the times, a religious institution followed the acquisition of power. William de Londres, or his descendent John, built Ewenny Priop.y, distant lm. from the castle near the road to Cowbridge. On quitting these ruins an incident of novelty occured to mr. Donovan. Pacing his route back to Newtown, a merry party of barefooted fe¬ males some on foot and others on horse¬ back, 3 or or 4 together, the first invaria¬ bly astride, overtook him and his compa¬ nion, greeting them with a favourite welsh tune in chorus. They were coming from th.e adjacent villages to bathe in the sea. In passing them after wards on the sands, they appeared without disguise, in the same situation as the chaste Diana and her atten¬ dant fair, at the moment when youthful Actajon gazed upon the secret haunts of the goddess. “ The sportive damsels,” says he, “ were neither terrified nor a- mazed at our unexpected presence, but continued their gambols in the water with the utmost indifference and composure. 1017 OSTERMOUTH CASTLE. OSWESTRY. 1018 So far has custom given countenance to a practice not altogether consistent with the refined ideas entertained of female morals in populous towns, or even in the inland parts of Wales. But along this coast the custom of bathing naked in the sea is so prevalent with both sexes, that nothing wrong is suggested. And surely while the mind remains undepraved by such custom, the convenience and benefit aris¬ ing from it should not be disputed.—vol. 1, p. 382. To Ewenny Priory, 1 mile, Barber. Back to Newtown, 5 miles, Donovan. OLD PASSAGE, See Aust Firry. OLD RADNOR, See Radnor. From Swansea, 4 miles. Barber. OSTERMOUTH CASTLE, is situated upon an eminence near Swansea on the coast of Glamorganshire. The principal walls of this ruin are not much injured by time, and most of the apartments may be readily distinguished; the general figure is polygonal, and the ramparts are conspi¬ cuously lofty, but unflanked by towers, except at the entrance : a profusion of ivy overspreadingtheruin rather conceals than adorns it. The entrance is at the s-e. end, which forms a projection and breaks the square. On a level with the wall on the i. side is the keep whence the prospect is ex¬ tremely fine. Ostermouth church is a fine object from many situations, as well as the village of the same name, which lying a- long the bottom of a high lime-stone rock, loses all sight of the sun for upwards of 3 months in the year. The building is sup¬ posed to have been erected by the norman Beaumonts who conquered Gowerland, and has almost ever aince remained the property of that family. This rural village is chiefly inhabited by fishermen. A tram road is made all the way Irom Swansea. The wheels of a car capable of containing 16 people drawn by one horse on this road generally goes twice a day to Swansea, the expense Is. In this vicinity at the head of a peninsula, is a light-house much ad¬ mired and visited by company from Swan¬ sea. Contiguous, and along the coast is some fine rocky scenery, particularly in the beautiful bay of Caswell. From some high hills behind Oster¬ mouth, an extensive view is obtained over the peninsula of Gower, and the two noble bays of Swansea and Caermarthen, which it’s projection divides : the general aspect of the peninsula is wild and dreary. Not far distant, near the little bay of Oxwich, are the ruins of renarth castle, a fortress built soon after the conquest of Gower¬ land, but the access to this is extremely difficult from the deep loose sand-banks which surround it, and on the opposite side of the bay stands the picturesque ruin of Penrice castle. To Loughor, 10 miles, Barber. — Penrice Castle, 10 miles, Skrine. From Llanymynech, 5§ miles, Bingley. - The Wrekin in Shropshire, Hutton. -Chirk, 7 miles, Warner. - Llanrhaiadyr, 14 miles, Wyndham. - Hawkstone, through Wem, 22 miles, Skrine. - Ellesmere, 8 miles, Pennant. - Ruabon, 10 miles, Gilpin. -Shrewsbury, 17 J miles. -Llangollen, 12j miles. OSWESTRY, a considerable market town in Shropshire, on the borders of Den¬ bighshire, and not far from the canal which connects the rivers Severn and Mersey, was a place of great eminence in the time of the Saxons. It was formerly called Ma- serfield, and derives it’s present name from Oswald, a king of Northumberland. In 642 a celebrated battle was fought, near this place between Penda, king of Mercia, and Oswald, in which the latter was de¬ feated and slain. Oswald approached with his army to what is called the church-field, then open. About 400 yards w. of the church is a small hill; here the battle com¬ menced. The assailant appears to have driven Penda’s forces to a field nearer the town, called Cae Nef. Here Oswald fell. Penda’s soldiers tore the body to pieces. The remains were interred near a spring about the midway between the hill and Cae Nef, called Oswald’s well, and a tree was planted on the spot; hence the name Oswald’s tree, was corrupted into Oswest¬ ry. A yew now stands on the same place. His skull W'as found in digging the pool just below the well, about the year 1780. His head is carved on a stone, banded with a royal fillet, and secured by iron rails. 1019 OSWESTRY. 102' Oswald had been a mighty benefactor to different monasteries; his name of course was raised to the dignity of saint, and con¬ sequent miracles were pretended to be wrought on the spot where he was slain. Yet what was Oswald in truth better than a royal plunderer ? Did he not quit his own dominions to attack and ruin those of another ? Penda, king of Mercia, (of which kingdom Maserfield was part) was indeed a pagan; and it was therefore thought law¬ ful in those sanguinary days of Christianity, to destroy both him and his people. The townvyas anciently a borough, and is still governed by 12 aldermen, 15 common- council men, Sec. In 1801 it’s population amounted to 5839 inhabitants, the number of houses, 1217. There is a market here for the welsh webs made in Denbighshire, called “ small cloth,” which are generally dyed before they be exporter}. The quar¬ ter sessions are held here. A very good grammar school, has been recently erect¬ ed, and well endowed. The Cross-keys Inn is said to be a com¬ fortable house, and the charges moderate. The Cross-Foxes is a large house where M. Roberts, a respectable young woman from Montgomeryshire, unfortunately blind, gains a precarious subsistence, by her musical talents, and waits on company at the inn. She plays a Welsh harp with great taste, and occasionally accompanies the instrument with her own peculiarly sweet voice. On an artificial mount on the outside of the town, are the remains of the Castle, being little more than a confused heap of broken walls and mortar. “The Britons and Saxons,” says mr. Pennant, “gave their fortresses this species of elevation. The Normans built on the firm and natural soil or rock ; but often made use of those mounts, which had been the sites of Saxon castles.” After the execution of Edmond earl of Arundel, in the reign of Edward 2, his queen, to shew her predilection to her gentle Mortimer, obtained the possession of this castle for him. The town was for¬ tified with a wall and four gates. That called the Black-gate is demolished; the New-gate, Willow-gate, and Beatrice-gate, still remain. The last is a handsome build¬ ing, with a guard room on both sides. These fragments of defence shew that Oswestry has been a place of considerable strength. In the civil wars it held out for Charles 1, till June 1644, when it surrendered to thi parliamentary army under general Myttoi and the earl of Denbigh. The Churcl is situated quite out of the town, in a sub urb without the New-gate. It is a spa cious structure, and has once been very handsome, but it has been patched up with out any regard to style or regularity. I however still retains a bold and vencrabk appearance. The tower has a picturesqut effect, from the bold tufts of ivy whicl clasp it’s sides. The interior is plain, hav¬ ing probably been stripped of it’s orna- ments. Against the n. wall is a clumsy monument, exhibiting a man and woman kneeling, above which is inscribed, “ In memory of mr. Hugh Yale, alderman ol this town, and Dorothy his wife, daughtei of Roger Roden, esq. of Burton, in the county of Denbigh, whose bodies are in¬ terred within the chancel of this church, commonly called St. Mary’s, before the demolition in the late wars, anno 1616 They gave to the poor of this town the ; yearly interest and benefice of one hundred pounds, to continue for ever; besides othei good acts of charity.”, The remainder ol the brasses and tablets are, chiefly in mem¬ ory of the vicars of the place. It is a vicar¬ age under the patronage ouring field, called Castle Brogyntyn, a ort belonging to Owen Brogyntyn, a natural on of Owen Madoc ap Meredyth, prince >f Powis Fadog. It is of a circular form, urrounded with a vast earthen dike, and i deep foss. At the house is preserved the •ortrait of sir John Owen, of Clenneney in Caernarvonshire; a gallant officer in sup- ■ort of Charles 1. The legend of the par¬ ish Church is that a noble Briton, being engaged in the chacc, found in a thicket on this spot a white hind, which determin¬ ed him to dedicate it to sacred uses. He accordingly removed to this place, it is said, the ancient church, which stood up¬ on a spot still called Bryn hen Eglwys. That high-church meteor, and party tool. Dr. Sacheverel, was presented to this in 1709; not so much on account of it’s value, as to give him an opportunity of making a pro¬ gress through a long extent of the king¬ dom, and of trying the inclinations of the people. He was met upon the confines of this county by 5000 horsemen, among whom were the first fortunes of. Shrop¬ shire. Mr. Pennant proceeded hence a- long a low road between Watts and Offa’s dikes to the village of Chirk in approach¬ ing which occurs a very deep valley, wa¬ tered by the brook Caeriog, and bounded by lofty banks. Upon the verge of that next to Chirk stands an artificial mount, and the vestige of another on the other side of the road. These were exploratory and designed for defence, by the Saxons. At a place called Jdwyer BedJau, a bloody conflict between the forces of Henry 2 and the Welsh, under Owen Gwynedd, took place in 1165, in which the latter gained the advantage. Near this place is. l'yn-y- Rhos, in the township of Bron y garth, where 90 acres of waste land have under¬ gone such improvements, that the Society for Encouragement of Arts, Sec. adjudged a premium to the proprietor Richard Phil¬ lips, esq. in the year 1806. This township is separated from the county of Denbigh by Offa’s Dike. The adjoining township on the w. of this Dike is called Cwgen, i. e. a place of graves. Distances from Oswestry to Llancol- len. Old Port, |m. Pentreclawld, lm. cross a branch of the Perry river, at Pentre- clawld, and at £m. beyond cross another branch, soon after occurs Pentrewern, and Gob Owen, 1 m. 1 f. (on the 1. to Bron y garth, l£m.) About lm. from Gob Owen, cross the Ellesmere canal, and about Jm. further cross the Ceiriog river. Chirk, 3m. (on the 1. is Chirk Castle, miss Myddleton, on the r. is a road to Ellesmere, 7jm.) IVhite- hurst, 2m. (on the r. to Wrexham, 7|m. by way of Ruabon. On the 1. is Cefyn y Wern, rev. David Price ; and on the r. Wynnstay, sir Watkin Williams Wynne, bart., 2m. further on the r. Trefor-hall, — Lloyd, 1023 OVERTON. esq.; and about lm. further to the r. is a grand newly-erected aqueduct.) Llan¬ gollen, 5m. To Llanymynech, the soil is a loamy gravel with much limestone upon the hills, of which there are many quarries. Not far distant from Oswestry is a splendid House of Industry, for the poor of 12 ad¬ joining parishes. [Seep. 821,] Pass the village of Pwl-y-cwrw, 2£m. and afterwards catch a view of the Wrekin, over a flat* well wooded and fertile vale of many miles through which the Severn winds. In front, at a considerable distance, rises the Breiddin mountains. Cross the Ellesmere canal, to Llanymynech, 2|m. To Chirk, miles, Pennant; Skrine; Bidgley. — Llangollen, 12^ miles, Hutton. — Llanymynech, 6 miles, Warner. — Shrewsbury, 18 miles, Wyndham; Gilpin; — Welshpool, 15 miles. — Ellesmere, 8 miles. — Llanfyllin, 14 miles. — Wrexham, 15 miles. PEMBROKE. 1024 new mansion has been built at this place, which was opened on the 31st of Decem¬ ber 1801, with a masquerade. Gwernhaylod, the seat of Philip Lloyd Fletcher, esq. near Bancor, in this parish, i should not be passed unnoticed ; few plac¬ es, says mr. Pennant, command so rich a view, few have been so judiciously im¬ proved. The house, a good mansion, stands upon the side of a lofty brow, which here skirts the country. The Dee runs below by the side of luxuriant meads, the hills of Caergwrle, Ruabon, and others closing the scene. The country, for the greatpst part of the way to Ellesmere is flat,and unpleasant. On approaching the town, however, the scenery becomes agreeable, abounding with beautiful irregularities, fertile and woody ; the bottoms are destitute indeed, of rivers, but abound with lakes, called here meres, elegantly bordered with culti¬ vated mounts. To Ellesmere, 4£ miles, Pennant. ■ From Bangor iscoed, 3 miles, Pennant. OVERTON, or Overton Madoc, in Flint¬ shire, is a pleasant village, placed upon a high bank above a rich meadowy flat of a semicircular form, through which runs the Dee, bounded in front with fertile and wooded slopes ; while the lofty and naked mountains soar beyond, and close the scene, on one side; on the other a grand contrast is presented to the eye, by the vale royal of Cheshire, and the plain of Salop. There once existed a Castle, which tradi¬ tion says was the residence of Madoc ap Meredydd, prince of Powys and lord of Overton, but not a fragment of it at present is distinguishable, tho’ a field fronting the Dee is called Castlefield. The Church is a handsome building, dedicated to St. Mary, and the church-yard contains some very fine yew-trees. This living is a cu¬ racy, not in charge, sir P. L. Fletcher, bart. patron. In 1801 the population of this par¬ ish, consisting of Knolton, Overton, and Overton Foreign, was 1233. The Fairs are held on Monday before Holy Thurs¬ day, June 11, Aug. 29, Oct. 8. The Petty Sessions for the division of Overton are held here. In this neighbourhood mr. Pennant vis¬ ited a fine collection of birds at Bryny pys, the seat of Richard Parry Price, esq. A From Carew, 5 miles, Wyndham; Barber} Do¬ novan. i< ii •- Milford, 7 miles, Malkin. - Tenby, 10 miles, Evans. -Monorbeer Castle, 7 miles, Skrine. The county town of PEMBROKE, from Pembroch, (the head of the foam) or as o- thers say from Penfro, a cape or promon¬ tory, occupies a singular neck of land, which projecting separates the estuary, the main branch running on the n. side, while the other smaller branch bends to the s. under the suburb of Monckton. The town consists of one wide long street a- long the ridge of a hill with slanting gar¬ dens. Next to Caermarthen, it is the lar¬ gest and richest town in South Wales. In 1801 it contained 323 houses and 1842 in¬ habitants. Jointly with Tenby and Whis- ton, returns one member to parliament, the right of election being vested in the mayors, 2 bailiffs, and sergeants at mace, and about 1500 burgesses of the 3 bor¬ oughs. The Markets are on Wednesday and Saturday. The .Fan-son May 14, Trin¬ ity Monday, St. Peter’s day, o.s., and Sep. 25. The principal Inns are the New Inn, Green Dragon, and King’s-arms. Here is a Free School, but it is triflingly endowed. The Petty Sessions for the hundred of Cas¬ tle Martin are held here; and the mayor 02» PEMBROKE. 1026 olds a court once a fortnight. All the rods in the 3 parishes of St. Mary, St. .Iichael, and St. Nicholas are inclosed, 'iris town has given the title of Earl to nany families ; the family of Herbert re- eivcd this honour from Edward 6, with /horn it continues. It is encompassed by wall of considerable height on the n. ide, and flanked with numerous bastions, ut on the s. side the course of the wall an scarcely be traced. It had once three ates ; one on the n. only remains. Le- uid says that “The towne is well waull- d and hath iii gates, by est, west, and orth, of the wich the est gate is fairest nd strongest, having a faire but a com- asid tour not rofed, in the entering /hereof is a portcolys, ex solido ferro.” )f these erections there are now but very mperfect remains j the n. ga-e however t still in tolerable repair. Tho’ the town ie ancient it has suffered a decline pro- lortioned to the increase in consequence ■f Haverfordwest. The buildings near he water side, and those in the suburbs, re almost generally in a state of great de¬ lay : the principal street has still a respect¬ ive appearance, tho’ destitute of the air if business. The produce of the country tround is plentiful, which renders Pem- iroke a cheap retirement for families of lender incomes. Upon the rocky ter- nination of the widening ridge stands the uins of the Castle, which, both in respect o extent, variety of architecture, and bold- less of situation ranks among the most iplendid monuments of antiquity in S. vVales. It’s outline presents many sides, with many bastions and projections of dif¬ ferent sizes and forms. The architecture af this fortress is a mixture of the Norman ivith the early gothic. The tower com¬ manding the water, the entrance from the town, and the round tower, are the only parts in tolerable preservation. It is seen to the greatest advantage in approaching by water, coming up with the tide. The castle was divided into an inner and outer ward ; in the former was included the keep, and the state apartments; in (he lat¬ ter the inferior buildings and offices for the use of the garrison; yet there were some good rooms over the entrance lead¬ ing to the town. Leland says, “ In the atter ward I saw the chaumbre wher king Henry 7 was borne, in knowledge where¬ of a chymmeney is new made, with the 34 arms and badges of king Henry vii.” This castle, standing upon a rock, is in many places 45 feet high, and encompassed with water. It’s weakest side was to the town, defended only by a dry ditch, cut through the solid rock, and a semicircular barbican to cover the entrance. The keep, which is 75 feet high to the dome, and 163j feet in circumference at the base, the mean thick¬ ness of the wall is about 14 feet. It was divided into 4 stories, each story lessening in diameter. It is still covered in with a vaulted stone roof. To the n. of this tow¬ er is a suite of apartments, their fronts com¬ posed of the outer wall of the castle, ap¬ parently of later architecture; probably they were the rooms appropriated to the countess of Richmond, and her infant son. The basement story of this suite includes the door that opened into the stair-case leading to, as Leland terms it, “ the mar- vellus vault caullid the Wogqn,” (a cor¬ ruption of Ogof.) This remarkable exca¬ vation in the rock is nearly circular, with a lofty vaulted roof, in diameter about 77 feet, probably used as a store-room. The origin of this castle is clouded by historic doubt. Arnulph de Montgomery appears to have built a castle here in the reign of Wm. Rufus, upon an ancient british earth¬ work. Pembroke castle is famous in his¬ tory for the brave defence made by it’s garrison in favour of Charles 1, under the command of Poyer and Laugharne. After it’s surrender to Cromwell, Poyer was shot 1649. The public Buildings are two churches in the town, and one in the suburbs; the Town Hall, in which the assizes for the county are held ; and the Custom-House. In the latter all the busi¬ ness of the port of Milford Haven is trans¬ acted St. Michael’s Church, at the e. end of the town, bears marks of great an¬ tiquity. ll’sarchiteciure isnorman, it’s plan cruciform, with a stunted tower, the area of which opens by four arches into the nave, the chancel, and the transepts, of the simplest and rudest kind. St. Mary’s Church , is stationed near the centre of the town ; it’s construction somewhat more ornamental. The pointed order prevails, and it consists of nave, chancel, and n. side aiSle, with a small chapel to the s. Three arches are walled up, which evidently communicated with buildings which do not now exist. St. Michael’s had a sub* ordinate chapel or hosjiitium, a little to 1027 PEMBROKE. 1028 the i. of the church, without the town’s walls. The site is called Marian’s Chapel. St. Mary’s had also it’s chapel of ease call¬ ed St. Anne’s to the n-w. of the town, of which scarcely a trace remains. These churches with Monkton are consolidated vicarages. A church called St. Nicholas once stood within the Castle walls, which Arnulph de Montgomery gave anno 1098, with 20 caracates of land, to the Abbey of St. Martin at Sayes, in Normandy, the o- rigin of Monkton Priory. The Priory Church, was of great extent, formed of an admixture of the saxon and pointed orders. The nave is vaulted with stone. The pointed arch which led to the unroofed part now forms the back of the communion table. The church is paved with glazed bricks, having arms, mottos, and flowers upon them. The modern front is placed upon the fragment of a beautifully cluster¬ ed column, a remnant of the ancient edi¬ fice. The Mausoleum of the Owens, and probably of the Wyrriotts of Orielton and the Meyricks of Bush, is here. In the un¬ roofed chapel there are some handsome windows, a canopied recess, and altar- stone stalls for 2 priests. Parallel to this on the n. side is a building of similar di¬ mensions, formerly connected with the nave of the church. The Prior’s Man¬ sion, a little to the w. of the cemetery, now converted into a farm house, is singularly formed of various kinds of architecture. It is ascended by a flight of steps, at the foot of which are remains of very curious pil¬ lars. The basement is all vaulted, and the outbuildings together with the walls that enclosed the whole, give us an idea of the prior’s great establishment. A Dove- house of large dimensions exists entire. The farm is rented at 400/. per annum. Two chapels St. Daniel’s, still standing, with a stone tower and spire, used as a methodist meeting-house; and Crug Ma- haren, now in ruins, were appended to this priory. Gilbert Strongbow was the first earl of Pembroke. See a history of the earldom of this place in Fenton’s Tour, page 376 to 391. It was granted by Ed¬ ward 6 to sir Wm. Herbert, then master of the horse and one of the privy council, iu which family it still continues. Mr. Wyndham says that the rev. mr. Holcombe had a large collection of coins of the later emperors ; and a curious foundation stone, with an alphabet of saxon letters upon it finely engraven. When at Pembroke, mr. Wyndham walked to the Ferry; whence, having an order for the custom¬ house boat, he sailed, for some time, about the Haven of Milford, and then, the wind being contrary, he rowed up the river, with the tide, to Haverfordwest. In the reign of Henry 1, a colony of Flemings, driven from their country by an inunda¬ tion, were permitted to settle in the w. neighbourhood of Milford haven. These were often attacked by the Welsh, but un¬ successfully. They soon extended their territory over a great part of the county, and in conjunction with the Normans, car¬ ried their arms as far as Llanstephan. Cam¬ den calls this district “ Little England be¬ yond Walesand the difference of ap¬ pearance, customs, and language, between the inhabitants of S. Pembrokeshire and their neighbours, is strikingly obvious at present. Both sexes among the Flemings distinguish themselves by wearinga short cloak called Gawr Wittle. In Caermar- thenshire the tourist will scarcely meet a peasant who speaks a word of English; but in an hour’s ride, towards Pembroke he will find it universally spoken. The men, tall and well made, evidently incline more to the english character than the welsh; yet they possess some personal traits distinct from either. I imagined, says mr. Barber, that I perceived a resem¬ blance in many of the peasantry to the present inhabitants of Flanders. Tho’ this corner of the principality is the most re¬ mote from England, it is the most civiliz¬ ed. This may be accounted for, from the commercial habits brought over by the Flemings (which still continue) introduc¬ ing the manners of other nations ; an ad¬ vantage denied to the generality of the Welsh, whose ancient (perhaps whole¬ some) prejudices disinclined them to ex¬ tensive commerce. Crossing a ridgy mountain on the road to Haverfordwest, Milford-Haven ap¬ pears a noble sheet of water. AN EXCURSION in the Hundred of St. Martin, BY R. FENTON, ESQ. Quitting the magnificent ruins of Tern- broke pass through Monkton, from the height of which an admirable view may be attained. Reach Dry Burrozus, a furzy moor, covered with tumuli. To the 1. of this death-devoted waste, upon rising 1029 PEMBROKE. 1030 ground, stands Orielton, probably inhabit¬ ed by a person called Oriel, a name now nearly worn out. In the time of Henry 2, it was possessed by the family of Wyrriott, who held it till the reign of Elizabeth, when sir Hugh Owen, knt. married the sole heiress. His son by marrying his cou¬ sin, the heiress of Bodeon in Anglesea, descended from Hwva ap Cynddelw, one of the 15 tribes of N. Wales. By the death of sir Hugh Owen the house of Orielton has changed it’s master, the late baronet, having by will, bequeathed to his kins¬ man John Lord, esq. his name and fortune. Here turn to the r. passing Castlelon, tho’ now but a farm-house, was once the resi¬ dence of one of the earliest Advenas, named Castle, whose daughter and sole heiress Mabel, married sir Stephen Perrot. Still here and there observe faint remains of tumuli. From this height to the r. the navigation from Pennarmouth up to the town of Pembroke. The coast here is fa¬ mous for oysters of superior excellence, in inexhaustible quantities. Descend by HAnllan, anciently inhabited by the de¬ scendants of Gwynfardd Dyfed. Hence to Pivllcrochon church-yard, situated upon a small creek of Milford Haven in which a memorable skirmish took place between the king’s and parliament forces. Upon one of the corner stones of the n. aisle is an inscription to the memory of Ralph Beneger,tne rebuilder of the church, who lies on the s side between the door and the belfry, where may be seen his effigy in a canonical habit, under an arched canopy. The Benegers, now extinct, were the ori¬ ginal proprietors of Benegerstown, after¬ wards contracted to Bangeston, and of con¬ siderable eminence in this neighbourhood. The parish church of Ithoscrowlher, is dig. nified with a handsome tower, and the in¬ terior contains 2 or 3 figures of ecclesias tics, tolerably sculptured. Distant Jm. stands Jestingtown, or vulgarly Iseston, long the residence of the family of Mcares. Before the conquest a branch of the royal family of Wales flourished here in the per¬ son of Jestyn, grandson of Howel Ddi It seems to have been castellated, tho’ little of the original building exists. The Per- rots inhabited this house for some cen¬ turies, till tbeir union with Haroldstonc, near Haverfordwest. Not far from the church, there is a well, arched over, form¬ erly called Saint Degmen’s, or Decuman’s, to which great virtues have been ascribed. Skirting the Bay of Nangle, reach the vil¬ lage of that name, so called from being somewhat placed in angulo. It is large and bears marks of it’s former consequence. The Sherburnes were the ancient lords of the vill. The church is a respectable fab¬ ric but contains nothing remarkable. A belfry seems to have stood on the s. side. Against the s. wall there is a handsome monument of the late Brigadier Ferrar6. Against the wall in the inside, is a small sculptured figure of a man, in an odd and ludicrous attitude. In the cemetery is the effigy of a priest, almost covered. In the n-e. corner, built over a vault, is a neat little building, probably once an oratory. This church was one of Giraldus’s bene¬ fices, and without doubt rich. To the n. of a little brook running behind the church-yard, are the remains of aconsider- able building with a square tower called the Castle, said to have been the principal residence of the Sherbornes, now an Inn. The appendage of a large pigeon-house stands in a field. To the s-w. of the church-yard, are seen the ruins of a very handsome building, like a religious struc¬ ture. Three sisters, it is said, built each a house, this was one of them, the castle was another, and the 3d a mansion a little way out of the village to the s-e. called the Hall. To the w. of the village, in a field, may be traced the site of a chapel. The cemetery extended to the shore. Hence along the coast is the Block-house, a singular building reared upon the very edge of a horrid precipice overhanging the sea, fronting another, upon the Dale side of Milford. The masonry of these build¬ ings is excellent. George Owen ascribes them to the time of Henry 8, Lewis Mor¬ ris to the reign ol Elizabeth, and Richard Fenton thinks they were begun by the ro¬ mans for the security of the harbour, he having noticed the fraces of a roman road which led from Menapai, or Menevia, near the present bt. David’s, coastwise to Dale, where the opposite block-house stands. [See mr. Fenton’s Tour, p. 404.] To the s-w. of the Block-house was Sheep Island, insulated at full sea. The point of peninsular land that it connects with is separated from the main land by a very deep foss. Leaving on the 1. what was once Bangeston, cross an extensive tract of sandy burrows, in the centre of which 1031 PEMBROKE. 1032 stands a Cromlech, resting upon 2 upright stones, the 3d being overturned. After traversing this extensive sandy tract, thick¬ ly stocked with rabbits, descend by Corson to Stenbrigge, the w. limit of the privileges of Pembroke under it’s original charter. Corson or Corsetown, so called from being situated above Castle Marlin Cone or bog. About the year 1791 this corse was inclos¬ ed, and yet tho’ the soil is the rich deposit of ages, requiring no manure, yet it is neglected. Ascend to the village of Cas- lie Martin, where is the site of an ancient british earthwork. At 2 angles of the ir¬ regular square are yet discoverable, the truncated relics of the bastions. The Church is situated to the n-w. of the vill, in a very sequestered hollow; it has a tower, but the aisles are ruinated. Moor lies on the 1. In the beginning of the 17th century it was the principal mansion in this part of the district. It’s form is irregu. lar with many ruinous and extensive out¬ buildings. A little further on is Merian court, the head of a manor now belonging to lord Cawdor. Some part of the mason¬ ry is highly finished. In the village is an upright stone to which cattle taken in tres¬ pass it is said were tied. To the n-e. of the village upon a knoll, is a large British circular Camp, encompassed by 3 aggers. The 2 outer are nearly levelled, the inner is almost entire. Hence the road passes in front of Broicnslade, the w. extremity of lord Cawdor’s immense property; a place affording a specimen of farming on an en¬ larged scale; in short, every feature in¬ dicates a superior style of management. Proceeding in the same direction, and fol¬ lowing the coast, come to Bully bear, where a strong earthwork, occupies a tongue of land projecting into the valley, and com¬ manding a little bay below it, evidently the work of invaders. The camp has 4 val¬ iums of considerable depth to the land side, and as many facing the sea. Near¬ er the sea is Linney, an old mansion, the property of the Rows, a family now ex¬ tinct. Pass Linney Point, and forward to the Head of Man, a promontory of vast height, tremendously overhanging it’s base. A little e. come to another danish camp, upon the outer agger of which is a small tumulus. From this point catch a fine view of an insular pyramidal rock, called Pennyholt Stock, (perhaps from Pen- aau hollt) standing at the entrance of a small bay, formed by huge cliffs of curi¬ ous stratification. The tVash (so called from being covered with the sea at high- tides) is a shelving ledge of rock where parties resort to shoot the sea birds which frequent it. This employment is called sport. Can that be sport which inflicts the tortures of death ? Where is human reason * The spot most remarkable upon this sing¬ ular coast is where a large danish Camp occupies an extensive neck of land, in¬ cluding a wonderful chasm called the Cauldron, whence the 2 insular rocks, call¬ ed The Stacks or Castles; being 2 very high rocks, disjointed from the main land by the continued impression of the waves, are well disposed in the distance. The en¬ trance into this camp was by a winding as¬ cent, into which the rocks gradually slope. The curved rampart fortifying it towards the land, stretched from this sheltered ac¬ clivity to the other side of isthmus, where the cliffs enclose a large space, in the cen¬ tre of which the cauldron yawns most hor¬ ribly. At the bottom are 2 natural arches. Still a little further e. is another camp. In this excursion notice several funnel-shap¬ ed sinkings, incident to all lime-stone tracts. In the largest is a plantation of ash trees. Bosherlon Meer is a very small opening upon the surface of the limestone rock, which connects with the sea by a large and winding aperture. Instances have occurred when this reservoir of water has been impelled and agitated by the con¬ currence of wind and tide, so as to be broken into a column of foam, 30 or 40 feet above the mouth of the pit, attended with the sound of thunder, which has been heard at the distance of many miles. A little beyond to the e. is a fissure in the cliffs, not discoverable till you have ad¬ vanced near it’s edge, called Penny’s and Adam’s Leap, over which it is said, these hunters in full chase were carried! Ar¬ rive at the Horse-block, a fixed directory leading down to St. Govan’s Chapel and Well, a dell, which entered soon brings you to a flight of limestone steps, which superstition says cannot be numbered. Mr. Fenton, in his descent, made them 52, which agrees with Ray, Itin. p. 242. The chapel occupies the whole pass down to the sea, being placed across it. The build¬ ing measures 20 feet by 12; aD altar is formed of a large slab of limestone raised upon masonry. On the r. is aniche for holy 1033 PEMBROKE. 1034 water, and in the t. wall an arched door¬ way opening to an excavation in the lime¬ stone rock, just large enough to contain a middle sized man. On the outside is a small arched opening for suspending a bell, and a hole in the stone roof within for the rope to pass through. Descending several stone steps, arrive at the sainted Well, where crippled patients bathe their limbs, and leave their crutches as votive offerings. In proceeding downwards, several large fragments of the rocks, when struck with a stone ring like a bell. The greater bay to which this retreat opens, is formed by a most majestic amphitheatre of lofty and precipitous cliffs; but the more recessed cove where the hermitage is placed, ex¬ hibits the most picturesque boundaries, one rising from the sea like a pyramid, and the other a long projection with an arch through it. Scarcely any thing can vie with the awful wildness of this place. Af¬ ter regaining the height on the way to Stackpool-court, pass Buck’s Pool, a house named from a small piece of water, fed from a permanant spring. The family of Adams once resided here, but migrated to the banks of Milford-haven, leaving this to sink to the condition of a farm-house. Pass through Busherton or Stackpool Bosher, where there is a Church and a handsome glebe house, inhabited by one of lord Caw¬ dor’s chaplains. Below the village, cross an arm of the estuary of Stackpool, under a tongue of land covered with a strong en¬ campment, and ascend a gentle slope near the summit of which is a small adit or cav¬ ern in the limestone rock. Here human bones have been found and other articles in the morass separating it from the en¬ campment. The neighbourhood undoubt¬ edly has been the seat of many a bloody contest. Harold is said to have infested this coast and to have left behind him rude monuments of his predatory victories in¬ scribed, HIC HAROLDUS VICTOR FUIT. Of 3 stones the most e. stands in Stackpool warren, pitched upon one end ; the 2d sur¬ mounting a carnedd, is in a field called Horestone-park, consisting of a great mass of limestone, 6 feet above the ground, 5 in breadth, and a foot in thickness ; it is bed¬ ded in an almost circular mound of stones. The 3d stone is upon the same line, but more w.; it is the tallest, almost incrusted with a minute lichen. Blackpool Court (from the Stack rock at the mouth of Broad- haven), is the elegant seat of lord Cawdor. It is placed upon the w. side of the pool, on a fine eminence at the edge of a bold declivity. It bore originally a castellated form, but during a whole century had un¬ dergone progressive changes, and lost it’s ancient baronial character. In the civil wars it was fortified and garrisoned for the king. The walls were so strong that the ordnance did little execution. The present mansion, which occupies the same site, is of wrought limestone, built by the son of sir Alex. Campbell of Cawdor-castle, in Scotland, who settled here by marrying miss Lort, sole heiress of this extensive domain. In examining the present pon¬ derous structure, at a short distance, it’s architecture is heavy; remotely, it as¬ sumes the unbroken packing-box style. Lady Cawdor has contributed to mr. Fen¬ ton’s Tour, from her own pencil, a charm¬ ing view of this vicinity taken near the bridge in crossing from the house to the park. The house has two fronts, the prin¬ cipal one facing the pleasure ground, the other opening to a fine piece of water. You enter the latter front from a broad terrace extending to the whole length; and, after descending a flight of steps, it continued to the extent of a spacious conservatory. The house is formed into many fine apart¬ ments, and the library is large. In one roomcontaining family pictures, isawhole length of lord Cawdor by sir Joshua Rey¬ nolds, and another of lady Cawdor, by sir Wm. Beechey. The offices are well ar¬ ranged, and the stables form a detached large quadrangular building. Of Stack- pool, says mr. Fenton, without straining a compliment, there are few places which display more magnificence without or more sumptuous hospitality and elegant comforts within. But to sum up the im¬ portance of this place, be it known that it stands in the midst of a property of 15,000 acres of most valuable land! Opposite is the park, well stocked with deer, deform¬ ed by some barren sand-banks, and at pre¬ sent deficient in wood. The borders of the lake and the pleasure grounds are how¬ ever richly wooded. Between the park and the sea there is a warren formed of mountains of sand consolidated by that valuable plant morhesg, (Juncus mariti- mus) sea or mat rushes. The lake is a- bundantly stocked with wild fowl, which 1035 PEMBROKE. 1036 collect at a call and consent to be fed like barn-door poultry. It is evident that the commoners of nature would have no aver¬ sion to man,were heuniformly kind them. M. Bouganville relates, that at his arrival at the Malouine or Falkland islands, which were not inhabited by men, all the animals came about himself and companions ; the birds settling upon their heads and shoul¬ ders, and the quadruped running about their feet. Forester relates several similar circumstances which occurred at Duskey- bay, in Newzealand ; see an account of his voyage with capt. Cook, vol. 1, p. 128. Passing along the park enter the pleasant village of Stack-pool, where the ancient lords’ vassals resided. Hence descend to a vale on the r. where a private gate leads through a woody avenue to the church of Chereton or Stackpool Elidur, from it’s founder. It stands at the head of a se¬ questered dell; is a plain building, with a tower, consists of a nave and chancel, hav¬ ing 2 small aisles on the s. side. On the n. side of the chancel, under a wrought canopy of stone, lies a cross-legged knight, said to represent Elidur de Stackpool, the first possessor of Stackpool; the same whom Giraldus mentions, who took the cross at the time that the archbp. Baldwin made his transit through the country. As¬ cend to St. Petrock's, a rectory in the gift of lord Cawdor. The church is small, but very light, and neat. The only conspicu¬ ous monument, is a handsome mural mar¬ ble tablet to a lady Jane Mansell, wife first of sir Roger Lort, and afterwards sir Ed¬ ward Mansel, of Muddlescombe. bart. in the county of Carmarthen. The rectors of this place have been observed to live to a great age. Return by way of Furson. A little way before entering the town of Pembroke, pass the ruins of Grove, once a respectable mansion.—See it’s history in Fenton’s Tour, 425. On the way to Tenby pass the e. gate, mentioned by Leland as having a barbican and a portcullis of solid iron, now nearly obliterated. A few hundred yards, with¬ out this gate at the junction of two roads, is the site of the hospital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen,corruptly Marian's Chapel. Turn to the 1. taking the road to Holy Land, the seat of Joseph Adams, esq. leaving to the r. the ruins of a large building. From this road, on looking back, a most pictu¬ resque view of Pembroke may be seen. The object of this deviation from the main road, called the Ridgeway, is to visit the Church of Nash, which contains the re¬ mains of one of the ancient crusaders. It appears never to have had a steeple, and is a very mean building. The knight of the cross lies disgracefully amid the rubbish of a ruined aisle. The sculpture is good, and the wire armour particularly well executed. The face is entirely broken off, and his name cannot be discovered. Re¬ gain the Ridgeway road at Llanfey, or Llanfedd, a straggling village with achurch and cross. The church is dignified with a handsome tower. A modern tablet bears the name of Oriel, a family now reduced, but to which probably Orielton owes it’s origin. A handsome pew with afire-place in it belongs to the house of Portclcw. Be¬ low the village are the remains of the an¬ cient and episcopal palace of the bishops of St. Davids. The grandeur and extent of this place is ascribed to Gower, but much contributed to by Hoton, who died here in 1309. The next occupier was bp. Rawlins, who attended sir Rhys ap Thom¬ as to the tournament at Carets) Castle. But the peculating Barlow, in 38 Henry 8, a- lienated his manor in favour of Richard Devereux, ar.d here the early days of the unfortunate earl of Essex Was passed. Llanfey-Court, is entered by an arched gateway, with a niche over it. We come next to a square tower, evidently a port¬ er’s lodge. A paved path then leads by a flight of steps to a room, called the red chamber, the floor of which is of hard stucco. A little way to the r. is the chap¬ el; the e. window still exhibiting most elegant tracery. A little further, in a pro¬ jection to the r. occur some of the great rooms, ascended by a staircase from with¬ out, finished on the n. side with an open parapet, and under them the kitchen, pointed at top and ribbed. Separated by several ruined apartments vaulted be¬ neath, to the w. ascend by a ladder into a larger and grander room than the former, the door and window casings of free stone, and at one end a door opening to a retir¬ ing chamber. To the e. of the chapel which looks into it, is a large paddock, once occupied by the gardens and orchards, in which is still a small fish-pond. 11 had a warren and park. The n. wall of the great barn or granary attributed to bp. Vaughan still exists. The beacon for a- 1037 PEMBROKE. PEMBROKESHIRE. 1033 !»rm in cate of an invasion, is placed npon mi ancient tumulus near Llanfey. Hogges- (on, a village with a church, lies on the r. This road over the Ridgeway, has been justly celebrated. It’scourse lies all the way on high ground, with a fall on each side; commanding on one hand the whole mountainous tract of Pembrokeshire, in all it’s gradationsof a well-cultivated coun¬ try, with Laurcnny, Carew, Cresselly, Jeflffeyston, and the creeks of Milford ; on the other hand the ocean with Lundy, at a distance the turretted pride of Manorbeer, and the lofty spire of Tenby. Manorbeer might conveniently be visited by quitting the main road here, [see Manorbeer.] Af¬ ter which regaining the Ridgway road on the 1. the cheerful looking village of St. Florence (Tregoyn) opens to view, to which turn out of the road down a narrow lane. Many of the houses are in ruins. The Church is a rectoral sinecure appropriated to St. John’s College, Cambridge; the rec¬ tor is patron of the vicarage. It is a very respectable building with a tower. In the chancel is an epitaph to the rev. Robert Rudd, and another to an ancestor of the present possessor Wm. Williams, esq. of Ivy.tower. The vicarage house has a de¬ tached building near it, used as a stable, which seems a portion of some monastic edifice. The earls of Pembroke had a wall* : ed park here, that may still be traced. Ascend the hill and again fall into the ex¬ cellent road we had left; pursue it a little farther and pass Trell-xyn or Trefiyne, a mansion once belonging Gwillim ap Evan ap Owen, of the great house of Pentre Evan in Cannes. It followed the posses¬ sions of Manorbeer, and now is the prop¬ erty of lord Milford. In the time of the Civil wars it was garrisoned for the king, and was the earl of Carbery’s head sta¬ tion, but was surrendered on quarter of life and liberty. Leaving Trellwyn, turn to the r. out of the main road to Ten¬ by, through winding lanes, to see the vil¬ lage and church of Penaley. The church consists of a nave with vaulted roof, in which is a skreen of elegant workman¬ ship. In the s. aisle, under a plain canopy, is an ancient altar tomb, having upon it 2 heads, a little raised, across below, and a rude inscription. In the area of the little steeple, is a stone coffin, richly overlaid with curious fret-work. It is certain that this was not it’s original destination. It’s elegance indicates that it once contained some distinguished dust. In the yard standi a beautiful shaft of an ancient cross, covered with rich tracery. Iu a fieldalittle n. of the church, are the remains of an old building. The house that the clergyman resides in appears to have been a dignified mansion of great extent. To the e. and s-e. of this village, on to Luclstep, the country was formerly thickly studded with houses, most of them surrounded with a court. Re¬ turning towards Tenby, look at the little round tower, upon the Penaley side of the back water; at the base scarcely 10 feet, about 20 feet high, divided into 2 stories, it’s form conical. Some have thought this building has been a pharos, some a hermi¬ tage, and others a landmark. Now enter Tenby, beautiful in every stage of it’s ap¬ proximation.—R. Fenton, esq. An Excursion may be made to Ln - xren - ny and Benton castles, up the river ; and to the new town of Milford and Pyle priory on the Haven. To Milford, 4 miles, Skrine; Barber; Evans. — Tenby, 10 miles, Malkin; Fenton. — Manorbeer Castle, 7 miles, Donovan. — Pembroke Ferry, 2J miles, tbence to Haver* fordwest. by water, 15 miles, Wyndbam. — Haverfordwest, the turnpike-road, 10 miles. PEMBROKESHIRE forms the s-w. ex¬ tremity of the principality, and is surround¬ ed by the sea, except on the n-e. where it is separated by the Teifi from Cardigan¬ shire. and on the e. where it joins Cacr- marthenshire. From n. to s. itis 34m. long, and from e. to w. 30m. and in circumfer¬ ence 150m. It contains 575 square miles, 368,000 acres ; 1 city, (St. David’s) 1 coun¬ ty town, (Pembroke); 7 hundreds; 9 mar¬ ket towns, 145 parishes, of these 74 are inhabited by the English, and 64 by the welsh In 1811 the population amounted to 60615, and the number of houses 12468. This county returns 3 members to parlit- ment, i. e. one for Pembroke, one for Haverfordwest and one for the shire. It is in the province of Canterbury, the dio¬ cese of St. David’s, and the N. Wales cir¬ cuit, and pays one part of the land-tax. The welsh language of Cilgerran, Cemai$,and Devvis land hundreds is esteemed pure. The english hundreds, four out of theseven are those of Ross, Castle Martin, Narberth, and Daugleddy. In the 2 last, and in thp yv. gnd n. parts of Ross hundred, the co- 1039 PEMBROKESHIRE. 1040 glish and welsh are mixed. The Soil of this county varies considerably, including the extremes of good and bad, with all the intermediate gradations. It’s surface is in general hilly, but not mountainous, -and rendered Iruitful by it’s numerous streams. With the exception of a small tract towards the n. this is the most level part of Wales, and resembles the face of the engltsh coun¬ try. So close indeed has the affinity of it’s inhabitants been traced to the english peo¬ ple, that the district of Ross has been called “Little England beyond Wales.” The mountainous tract is confined to it’s n-e. portion; here, however, good pas¬ turage is afforded to it’s flocks : the s. part yields good crops of grain, consider¬ ing the ordinary cultivation it undergoes ; this generally consists of four successive crops of grain, and is at last frequently laid out without any grass seeds. The imple¬ ments of agriculture are nearly on a par with the culture extremely despicable. The chief labour of the farm is performed by oxen, this gives rise to an excellent breed of jet black cattle, with fine spread¬ ing horns, which are highly prized by the english graziers. Some parts of the coun¬ ty abounds in coal and culm and it’s coasts with iron-stone. Salted butter and cheese are considerable articles of exportation, and large profits are made by breeding hogs. The Fisheries of Pembrokeshire are productive. The prices of provisions and the rate of labour are much lower than in any part of Wales. The Climate is tem¬ perate and the air salubrious; frost seldom continuing for any considerable time, and the snow dissolving in a day or two after falling. The instances of longevity are numerous and remarkable, so that persons living to the age of 90 are by no means of rare occurrence. From it’s situation, being almost surrounded by the sea, this dis¬ trict is supposed to be peculiarly affected by the rain. The principal Rivers in this county are the Teify, Cleddy, and Doug- ledge : the less considerable ones are the Gwain, Biran, Nefern, and Rudford. The Teify rises at Llyn Teifi, in the n-e. part of Cardiganshire, and running s-w. passes the towns of Tregaron, Llambeter, and Newcastle-in-Emlin; at the latter town, turning n-w. it soon afterwards enters this county at Maen, or Defy, and forming it’s boundary on the n. passes the town of Car¬ digan, and unites with St. George’s chan¬ nel, at Kemmaes head. The Cleddy rises in the n. part of the county, in the Prescles mountains, near Monachlogdu, and run¬ ning nearly s. passes within a short dis¬ tance of Narberth and gently winding to the s-s-w. meets the W. Cleddy at Land¬ shipping, and both united flow into Mil¬ ford haven near Lawrenny. The Doug- ledge River rises in the w. part of the i county, to the n. of 14'aluty’s Laslle, and running e. is augmented by the waters of the Hiog, about lm. below Haverford- west: here it turns to the s-e. and unites with the Cleddy opposite Llandshipping. The sea coast is in general hilly with steep or perpendicular cliffs; on tracing it from it’s n e. point, at the mouth of the Teify, the most remarkable place is Aberkibor-bay, formed by Cammaes-head on theN.andPen- drowry head on the s., having in it’s cen¬ tre the small fishing town of Penyrallt. i Next succeeds Newport Bay, near which are the town of Newport, and fishing vil¬ lage of Eglwys Dinas. Fishguard Bay, forming a much better harbour than either of the above, next presents itself, which has near it’s centre the town of Fishguard, noted for it’s trade in herrings. Hence the coast running s-w. winds round -Stumble Head to that of St. David’s, off which lies Ramsey Island, with a group of rocks call¬ ed the Bishop and his clerks, which are frequented in the breeding season by vast multitudes of sea fowl, many of which are unknown in every other part of the island. The large bay of St. Bride’s succeeds, form¬ ing a safe retreat for vessels in all winds, but the w. and s-w. and beyond some islands on it’s s. side is the entrance to the celebrated Milford Haven. The various creeks abound with oysters and other fish; on one of them is situated the county town of Pembroke ; and a new town has been planned near Milford, for a colony of qua- kers. At Milford-Haven the earl of Rich¬ mond,afterwards Henry 7, landed on his en¬ terprise against Richard 3. The last place on the coast to be noticed, is Tenby at the s. extremity of a small bay, in which is a good road-stead for ships in all winds ex¬ cept e. and s-e. The principal inland town is Haverfordwest, which is in a very im¬ proving state. The country between the Cleddy and Dougledge rivers was settled in the time of Henry 1, by a colony of Flemmings, whose language, manners, and national industry, long distinguished 1041 PENCAMAWR. PENCOED CASTLE. 1042 them from the surrounding natives, with whom they formerly had frequent quar¬ rels. This space includes the hundreds of Ross and Castle Martin. It appears that these flemmings were compelled to quit their original country from an overwhelm¬ ing incroachment of the sea which occur¬ red about the year 1108. A part of them came into England where they commuted various depredations. King Henry there¬ fore was under the necessity of driving them into Wales. They landed in Pem¬ brokeshire and settled in the district of Ross, where they established themselves as subjects of the English king. He placed among them many Englishmen, who taught them their language, [sec the his¬ tory of these colonists in Malkin’s S. Wales, vol. ii, p. 177—196, 8vo. The only manu¬ factures of the county, consist of a cotton- mill near Haverfordwest, which employs about 150 persons, an iron forge at Black¬ pool, and some iron and tin works on the Teily. From Ltanfalr Iscoed Caslle, 3 miles, Skrine; Barber. PENCAMAWR, is a remarkable emi¬ nence in the long ridge of hills crossing, irregularly, the midland parts of Mon¬ mouthshire from the vicinity of Caerleon to the banks of the Wye near Llandago. The prospect from this height is greatly extensive. Beyond the wild region pre¬ vailing about the eminence, which is bro¬ ken into a rapid succession of high hills and deep vallies, the winding Usk, with it’s emeraldic valley, accompanied by nu¬ merous villas and rich hanging woods, ap¬ pears in all it’s beauty. After the bold character of the foreground, a scenfe of cultivation and productiveness appears of great extent; while, far distant, the moun¬ tains near Abergavenny are presented. Southward, the view is alike extensive, including a great part of the Bristol chan¬ nel with it’s receding coast. Stricuil Castle stands in a marshy field at the bot¬ tom of this hill. To Usk, the descent from Pencamawr into the vale is extremely rapid. To Striguil Castle, % mile, Barber. — Usk, miles, Skrine. From Striguil Castle, 7 miles, Barber. —— Penhow Castle, 2 miles, Cone; Manbjr. PENCOED CASTLE, and Manor House are ruins situated on the extreme boun¬ dary of that hilly tract bordering Caldecot level, in Monmouthshire, over which and the Bristol Channel it commands a com¬ prehensive view. Of the castle very in¬ considerable vestiges appear: they are comprehended in a gateway with a circu¬ lar arch and two small pentagonal turrets, a round embattled tower, and some dilapi¬ dated walls; yet, decorated wiih a profu¬ sion of verdure, the ruin, tho’ small, is picturesque and pleasing. The architec¬ ture of these fragments, says mr. Barber, is of a more distant date than most of the small castles in Monmouthshire, and may be considered coeval with the first estab. lishment of the Normans in Gwent, i.e. Monmouthshire. The mansion, occupy¬ ing the site of the baronial fortress, built with it’s materials and engrafted on his foundation, is of an architectural date be¬ tween Henry Bill’s reign and that of Eliza¬ beth. This neglected edifice is now part¬ ly occupied as a farm house ; but indica¬ tions of it’s former importance appear in the grand dimensions of the apartments, and the great general extent of the build¬ ing. It is the property of Capt. Matthews of LlandafE On regaining the high road, Penhow Caslle , soon appears on an emi¬ nence above a wild valley. After visiting this place, mr. Manby re¬ turned to the road, and on his way to Christchurch deviated 2m. to the l. to visit Hanwern , an elegant mansion, seated on an eminence and decorated with all the appendages denoting a residence of dis¬ tinction, and which render it an interest¬ ing and pleasing object. It was built in 1760. by Charles Vanne, esq. father to the wife of R. Salisbury, esq. the present pos¬ sessor. “ Pcncoed has been considered, but without the smallest reason, the most ancient of the six agrarian fortresses men¬ tioned by the author of the “ Secret Me¬ moirs.”—Beauties of Eng. Monmouth, 165. To Penhow Castle, 2 miles, Barber. — Llanfair Castle, I 5 miles, Coxe. — Caerleon, taking Llanwerne and Christchurch by the way. — Caerwent, 5 miles. <1043 PENHOW from Peneoed Castle, 8 miles, Barber. — Caerwent, 3§ mile«, Core; Donovan; War¬ ner’s 2d walk; Manby. -Striguil Castle, 5 miles, Coxe. PENHOW CASTLE, is seated upon an eminence near the turnpike-road from Caerwent to Newport in Monmouthshire, command the pass of a wild hollow be¬ neath. A square embattled tower is the leading feature of this ruin, which is very inconsiderable, and mostly converted into e farm house. This was the ancient pos¬ session of St. Maur or the Seymour family, which came oyer at the conquest, but being seized for a debt to the crown it was purchased by Edward Lloyd, esq. of Bris¬ tol, and now belongs to Samuel Lloyd, esq. of Newbury, Berkshire. This rem¬ nant of antiquity has been so metamor¬ phosed by improvements, that it is often passed by strangers, without notice, hav¬ ing greatly the appearance of a farm house. The present remains consist of a sqpare tower with battlem,epts, and some low walls of an irregular shape. The porches and doors are gothic. In the church of Penhow, which is a small but ancient building, of various architecture, is a monumental inscription of a person who lived to the protracted age of 111 years. The little inn called the Rock and Foun¬ tain, stands near it on the opposite side of the road. Within short distances from the Newport road there are the ruins of Pen- coed, Llanfair, and Stricuil Castles, but they are equally of inferior conse¬ quence. Learning that no traces remain of the fortress of Llanfasches, mr. Barber returned to Caerwent, from a circuit of about 20m. after surveying five out of the six castles which formerly surrounded the forest of Wentwood. Fyom Penhow mr. Coxe continued along the turnpike-road, and descended to Cat’s- ash, a public house about 4m. from New¬ port, and opposite the rise that leads to Kemy’s Folly and Pencamawr. He as¬ cended hence and pursued his course along a natural terrace, 5m. in length, which commands a succession of admirable pros¬ pects. The rich vale of Usk, and the chain of hills commencing with the undulating eminences of Glamorganshire, and stretch¬ ing in a continued ridge terminating in the broken summits of the mountains near Abergavenny, are the same features, dif¬ ferently grouped, which are seen from the CASTLE. 1044 Pencamawr. Here the flat and fertile lev¬ els of Caldecot and Wentlog, bordered by the Bristol channel, are finely contrasted with the rugged mass of hills and moun¬ tains : the river Usk appears in singular beauty, upon the n. it winds along the wooded valley at the bottom of this elevat¬ ed ridge by Caerleon and St. Julians, and after passing by the town of Newport re¬ appears to the s. and flowing in a serpen¬ tine course through the level plain of Wentlog, falls into the British channel. In his way to Newport he stopped at Christ¬ church. It stands close to the highroad upon the brow of the eminence overhanging Caerleon, and between the 2 roads that descend to the bridge. The church is a large building of rubblestone plaistered, with a high square tower. Most of the doors and windows are gothic. It consists of a nave and 2 aisles separated by elegant gothic arches, with a cross aisle, and a chancel, once closed by a gothic screen, a few traces yet remaining of rich work¬ manship. The church contains a curious sepulchral stone. [See col. 994.] From Christchurch mr. Coxe made an excursion to Goldcliff, in the level of Caldecot. In the route he passed Llanwern House, the seat of sir Robert Salisbury, bart. m.p. for the town of Brecon. This estate became the property of sir Robert by his marriage with Catherine daughter of the late pro¬ prietor Charles Vanne, esq. whose father erected the present mansion. It is a large modern edifice, standing upon a gentle eminence, overlooking on one side the uniform level of Caldecot, and on the other a succession of hill and dale, wildly mant¬ led with underwoods and forests, forming a conspicuous object, both from the great Newport road, and from the adjacent marshes. The original name of the Vanne family, according to the welsh bard, Grif¬ fith Hiraethog, who lived in the 16th cen¬ tury, was De Anne, a family that came from Cornwall, in the reign of Edward 4. A little beyond Llanwern, enter into the low district called the Moors, and some¬ times Caldecot Level. Here is II hislon, a handsome modern dwelling, finished by Nash, for Wm. Phillips, esq. proprietor of an extensive tract of moor land around it. This district was once entirely overflowed by the sea, which has been reclaimed, drained, and cultivated by human efforts. Mr. Coxe passed for a considerable way 1045 PENMACHNO. PENMAEN MAWR. 1045 along the side of a straight drain called Monkditch, to Goldcliff, towards the n-w. extremity of the Moors, [see col. 986.] From this place he returned to Christchurch, and continuing along the highroad to New¬ port, descended into the plain, and crossed the Usk, over a new stone bridge of 5 arches built by mr. David Edwards, son of the architect of Pont y Pridd. “Nothing,” says mr. Donovan, “can be conceived more pleasant than the ride along THE DIRECT ROAD BETWEEN PeN- how and Newport, in fine weather. It is enlivened by frequent bursts of land¬ scape, of amazing extent and beauty. The whole embraces one wide sweep of inland country, broken into gentle inequalities, extremely fertile, and smiling in all the pride of culture. Of the romantic, also, it is not deficient; the inequalities some- times swell to hills, and sometimes sink to vallies; also, the n. range of hills which intersect the lower part of Monmouthshire, aspire to a prodigious height; and abrupt¬ ly terminate the extensive inland view. With the capricious features of the pointed Skyrrid in the distance, the nearer Penca- mawr, Twyn Barham, and other lofty mountains soaring proudly above the in¬ ferior elevations, the scenery n. assumes a character truly alpine wild and gloomy. Delicacy and effect pervade the intermed¬ iate region. The great level of Caldecot, dotted with whitened cottages, and two or three rural churches, are comprised in the nearer view. Beyond these are seen the Bristol channel, bending it’s silvery course along the whole of the s. boundary of the coast, and the hills of Somerset receding in the palest hues of blue and purple, to a remote extent of horizon, complete the picture. There are three distinct turnings on the r. of the Newport road, which lead to Caerleon ; the farthest of these, called the old road, is distinguishable by the lofty elevation of Christchurch, which stands on the pinnacle of the hill, along which the road descends circuitously towards the town. This eminence commands one of the most lovely scenes, on the r. that ima¬ gination can depict; an extensive prospect over the fertile bottom in which Caerleon lies. The distance of lm. through the vil¬ lage Ultra Puntem, conducts the traveller over the bridge of Caerleon, at the foot of which is the Hanbury-Arms Inn. To Caerwent, 2 miles, Barber. — Pencoed Castle, 1 ] miles, Coxe, Manby. — Newport, 7^ miles, Coxe. — Caerleon, 7 miles, Donovan; Warner’s 2d walk. From Llanrwst, 9 miles, Bingley. PEN MACHNO, (the head of the Maeh- no) in the hundred of Nant Conwy, Caer¬ narfonshire, is a singular village built in a circle round the church, which is a cura¬ cy, the patron mr. Vaughan. In 1801 the population of the parish vvas 574. The Fairs are held April 17, Aug 16, and Sep. 21 A lease from the crown of all mines of copper, lead, tin, and other minerals, granted to mrs. Ann Robinson, expires June 2, 1784. To Ffestinioc the road lies over a mountainous, and dreary country. To Ffestiniog, 8] miles, Bingley. r/////F/F////////i/F//A/FF/r From Conwy, 5 miles, Skrine; Bingley ; Gilpin, -Aber, 4 miles, Pennant; Aikin; Evans, •- Port Penrhyn, 11 miles, Warner. - Llanfair Fechan, 3 miles, Pennant. PENMAEN MAWR. on the road from Conwy to Aber and Bangor, in Caernar¬ vonshire, is a stupendous mountain, the last of the long Caernarvon chain, being 1400 feet perpendicular from it’s base, and 1550 above the level of the sea. Formerly this immense promontory afforded only a narrow zig-zag path, along the shelf upon it’s side for the terrified traveller to pass. In 1772, application was made to parlia¬ ment, and liberal assistance granted for improving and securing this part of the road to Holyhead. Dublin bore a distin¬ guished part in further aid by joining in a voluntary subscription ; and under the ju¬ dicious superintendance of John Sylvester, civil engineer, who undertook to accom¬ plish what had been deemed impractica¬ ble, a road was produced which will be the admiration of future ages, the most sublime terrace in the british isles. It ap¬ pears from a poem by sir Dafydd Owen. (“Cywydd yspeilwyr Meudwy’r Penmaen Mawr.”) that in Henry 8th’s time, there resided in or near this rock the hermit of Penmaen, named Serriol. The poem details the rob¬ bery of the hermit, by Thomas Goch and his associates, and concludes with an in¬ ventory of the good things found in this cell of mortification and penance. He re- 1047 PENMAEN MAWR. 1048 tired to Ynys Seiriol, built a chapel and died there. The road is well guarded to¬ wards the sea by a strong wall, of about 5 feet high, and supported in many parts by deep walls below. On this ledge the trav¬ eller winds round the mountain, while the vast impending rocks above, the roaring of the waves below, and the howling of the wind, unite to fill the mind with sol¬ emnity and awe. Before the wall was built, accidents were continually happen¬ ing by people falling down the precipices; but since, it has been perfectly safe. At some distance, the road appears like a white line along the side of the rock, which, towards the sea, is in many places 60 nearly perpendicular, that a stone may bethrovvninto it. The heightof this moun¬ tain, as measured by Caswell, who was employed by mr. Flamsteed is 1545 feet above the beach, at low water. This pass would, were it not for the wall, be truly terrible ; and even yet, to the timid, who form imaginary terrors, the amazing ab¬ rupt precipice of rock, variegated with fragments and ruins, which appear ready to fall upon the traveller below, present a scene of horror. In some places, rocks of vast magnitude, which have probably fal¬ len from the top, have lodged on project¬ ing ledges, and appear to be in the act of taking another bound. Several masses of this description are secured by masonry from proceeding any farther. The pro¬ tecting wall is nearly upright, whereas it should have been built as a butment, that is, very wide at the base and leaning in¬ wards, following the line of the descent. Those who have been at the hill or pass of Enterkin, in Scotland, know that the danger there is much greater. Before this road was formed, the usual mode of going from Conwy to Bangor, was either in boats or to wait the departure of the tide and proceed along the sands, at low water. Upon the summit of this protruding and immense mass, are some remains of a brit- ish fortification called Briach y Dinas, (the arm of the city) in the walls of which, ac¬ cording to Gibson’s additions to Camden, were formerly at least 100 towers, all round, of equal size, and about six yards in diameter within; being large enough to contain 20,000 soldiers. Welsh Castles appear to have been of three kinds; 1, such as were the residence of chiefs; 2, for the defence of passes; or, 3, tempor¬ ary places of refuge in times of alarm. The last are commonly seated on lofty moun¬ tains, and were of immense size. This seems to have been one of them; Dinas Bran may have been another.—Gilpin. The ruins at present consists of remains of ancient massy walls, constructed without mortar, including numerous circular build¬ ing, probably vestiges of habitations, simi¬ lar to those of Tre’r Caen. Governor Pow- nall, who examined it many years ago, with great care, conjectured that it has been one of the consecrated high places of druidic worship, and never intended for a place of defence. In the inclosure, he says, is a barrow of the kind which dr. Stukely calls a long barrow and attaches to the sepulture of an Arch-Druid. Ed¬ ward Llwyd, mr. Pennant, and other able writers, are of the former opinion. Within the innermost walls is a well, which af¬ fords plenty of water even in the driest summer. The prospect here is very ex- tentive towards the n. Underneath are the Lavan sands, perhaps from the Latin lavo, to wash. This eminence is 1545 feet, or 515 yards, above the sands, ac¬ cording to mr. Caswell, who took the al¬ titude at the request of mr. Flamsteed the astronomer. Of all the remarkable moun¬ tains in the county, this is the least diffi¬ cult of ascension. On the w. side you may gain the fort on horseback ; but on the n. it is superabundantly horrid; yetis the height of Penmaen Mawr nothing in com¬ petition of several other mountains in Caernarvonshire. It is remarkable only on account of it’s abrupt situation over the sea. The easiest places to ascend from, are either along a rather high wall which extends from the road far up the side of the mountain on the extremity nearest to Conwy, or at the other extremity, a little beyond the 6th mile stone. The pedes¬ trian might ascend one way and descend the other. On the w. side, at the foot of the hill, is a public house, once a place of much resort. This mountain abounds with the Crataegus aria, Veronica spicato, and, some say, the non-descript plant called Afaleur pren, the fruit of which resemblej a lemon. Among loose stones near the in¬ accessible rocks, the Sedum rupestre; iu thickets, Hypericum montanum. Mr. Pennant says, that he descended from the summit of Penmaen mawr into a hollow, between an adjacent mountain 1049 PENMAEN MAWR. 10*0 called the Penmaen, and proceeded to¬ wards Conwy, upon a good sheep walk. In his way he observed, above Gwdhtcglas, in the parish of Dwygyvylcheu, a long series of antiquities; as circles of stones of va¬ rious diameters, great Carneddau, and up¬ right stones. He afterwards joined the turnpike road above Sychnant. On the 1. is a lofty hill impending over Conwy- marsh. Upon it’s summit is Castel caer Lleion, a british post, surrounded with ditches and strong ramparts of stone. Part of Conwy, and a large bend of the river, with it’s wooded banks are seen from the descent to great advantage. From Bangor, on reaching the farther side of the promontory of Penmaen mawr we again come in sight of houses and cul¬ tivation ; and retiring from the sea enter a defile, where the road is carried by a rapid ascent along the brow of a hill, with a deep and nairow glen below, and beyond it a mouldering perpendicular precipice, so near that it seems to threaten a fall upon it’s opposite neighbour. Here also is a boundary wall raised upon the 1. of the road. Again occurs an open view of the surrounding country, but naked and steril; which leads by a gradual descent to Con¬ wy, the towers of it’s majestic castle ap¬ pearing at some distance, and you enter through the Forth ucha . Between Penmaen Mawr, and the sec¬ ond range of mountains to the s. is a noted place called Bte/ch y Ddaufain. It is the pass over the mountains to the e. side of the country, which is called Llechwedd Isaf. Here are two large, unwrought stone pillars, fixed upright in the ground, at about 100 yards asunder. They were set up probably as memorials of some chiefs fallen in battle ; and near them is a great heap of loose stones, which resembles acarnedd,tho’ the flat stone, which crown¬ ed the apex, is now gone. The common people’s account of them is, that they were set up by a giant and his mistress. From the hamlet or priory of Penmaen is a near and pleasant route to Beaumaris over the Lavan sands, which extend 5m. We steer over them by fixed poles, set up as marks to avoid quicksands. Approach¬ ing the middle of this vast area, it assumes a circular form, and the country which skirts it affords a fine piece of scenery. The objects which compose this grand cir¬ cle around the sands, taken in rotation, are the promontoryof Ormshead, adjoining, on the r. are the mountains Penmaenmawr and Penmaenbach. From these runs a skirting of picturesque country, formed in¬ to a recess by mountains, one of which delving into an abyss'is called the Devil’s Cauldron. To this country succeeds, in the part opposite the sea, another rich scene. At the point of it lies Bangor, screened by a woody distance, running out behind it. Thence the isle of Anglesea appears still farther distant; winding round, like a long, low bank towards the sea. Sepa¬ rated by a narrow channel from Anglesea, rises Priestholme or Puffin island, which another small channel divides from OrmeS- head. There is a ferry over the Menai which lands upon a pebble beach close to Beaumaris. It is commonly believed in these parts of Wales, that the whole track of the Lavan sands was once a beautiful valley. In confirmation of this tradition, mr. Myddleton, rector of Saint George’s, near Denbigh, shewed to mr. Gilpin a welsh m.s. the translation of which runs thus : “ In the year 813, the caslle of Tre- ganwy, was burnt by lightning ; and in the year 823, it was rebuilt. It was afterwards reduced by the saxons, and destroyed. This castle stood within the present flood- mark, opposite to Penmaenbach ; and the road from Rhyddlan-castle passed through it, by the boundary stone, near those two rocks called the Brown Brothers. These rocks make a part of the promontory of Llandidno, and stood opposite to the cas¬ tle of Treganwy. Hence the road ran in a straight line to the palace of Elis Clynog, which lay about a mile from Priestholme island. This palace once commanded a very beautiful vale, now totally flooded, and known by the name Lavan sands. For about the time that the castle of Treganwy was destroyed by the saxons, the sea broke in upon this country, and overflowed all the lands of the vale, which became a sand beach, and took the name of Lavan, or lamentation, from the melancholy cries of it’s suffering inhabitants. It is said that two persons only escaped from the palace of Elis Clynog.”—“ Observations,” p. 138. It is certain that the boundary stone men¬ tioned in this m.s. is still to be seen at low water. To Aber, 4 . mile!, through Llanfair Feclian, Bing- Icy ; Skrine. — Conwy,5m. Pennant; Aikin; Evans; Warner. — Beaumaris, 6 miles, Gilpin. 10.51 PENMORFA. 1054 Piom Pont Aberglasllyh, 5J miles, Pennant. pected lenity. Being interrogated as to -Llanllyfni, 11 miles, Warner, what he meant, he answered that “ It is BLdd a elart, 7 miles. a g rea t honour to a poor gentleman of PENMORFA, in the hundred of Yfion- Wales to lose his head in the company of ydd, Caernarvonshire, is a small wood-clad village at the head of some low marshy meadows, romantically placed upon the w. bank of Traeth Mawr, under the frown¬ ing Hebog a vast mountain which sepa¬ rates the vale of Beddgelart. Had the pro¬ jected communication been adopted across the peninsula, this place might have risen into importance, but in it’s wonted state the Church is the only object that can di¬ vert the traveller from a more important route. It is a discharged rectory, the bp. of Bangor patron, dedicated to St. Beuno. In 1801 the population of the parish a- mounted to 750. The Festival is held Ap. 21. Tre Mudoc is in this parish. A small monument commemorates the valour of the lord of. Clenneney, a mansion and de¬ mesne in the vicinity, by the following inscription; “ M. S. Johannes Owen de Clenneny in co. Carnarfon militis viri in patriam amoris ardentissimi: in regem (beatissimum martyrem Carolem 1, um) indubitatis fidelatis clari; qui, ad sacro- sanctam majestatem a perduellionem ra- bie eripiendam, summa pericula, luben- tissime obivit, hostium copios non semel fudit, ac fregrt: religionem vindicavit: donee, infelici sorte in perditissimorem hominum manus, regali jam sanguine im- butas, inciderit Dux praestantissimus; un¬ de supplex, sese obsessum redhnerat nisi, quod Heroi consummatissimo, famae plus, quam vitae solicito tale Xvrpov displicuit Colo igitur imperterrite oblato, securis aciem retudit divina vis, volucrisque fati tardavit alas, donee senex latissimus Caro¬ lem 2dum et sibi et suis restitutum vide- rat. An. Dni. 16C6, et aetatis suae 66, placide expiravit.” After sir John’s de¬ feat at Caernarvon castle, he was convey¬ ed to Windsor, where were already con¬ fined, the earl of Holland, the lords Goring, Loughborough, Capel, and major general Langhorn, for having espoused the same cause. During their confinement the king was beheaded, and they were ordered for trial. Sir John conducted himself during the time in a dignified strain, like a man unconscious of guilt and indifferent as to the future. His sentence was beheading On hearing this he bowed to the court and returned the judges thanks for their unex- noblc lords, for by G— I was afraid you would have hung me.” He neither beg¬ ged for mercy nor preferred a petition. Colonels Hutchinson and Ireton, to the astonishment of the world became his ad¬ vocates. The latter remarked that “ There was one person for whom no one spoke a word, and requested that he might be sav¬ ed.” In consequence, the boon of mercy was extended towards him; he was im¬ prisoned a few months, and allowed to re- i tire to Clenneney, where he died. The antiquary will visit Dolbemnaen, to see'a j circular tower of british workmanship, ap-, parently a signal post to other fortresses. Ystyw Cegid presents 3 Cromlechs, nearly : contiguous; above Penmorfa is a small ( druidic circle, much deranged; and upon Bwlch Craigwen is one larger, and more i entire, composed of 38 upright stones. The former resembles the “ Bridestones,” near Biddulph in Staffordshire, and the latter that grand bardic circle at Rolrict, Oxford- 1 shire. At a short distance from Penmorfa, to the s-e. are 2 small inlets of the sea called Traeth mawr, and Traeth bach, or bychan. ' Across the former, at ebb tide, is a ford on the road to Tan-y-bwlch; and another over the latter, to Harlech. These save very circuitous routes, for otherwise the traveller must go round to the bridge over the Glas-llyn, near Beddgelert. Passing these sands is often attended with danger, owing to a stream running across the mid¬ dle of each, which when swelled by mountain torrents, contain sometimes an unusual depth of water, the beds being left unequal in various places by the opposing tide. To a stranger a guide is essentially necessary ; and under the most favourable circumstances these fords are attended with inconvenience. At the conflux of the 2 estuaries with the ocean is a small deiached sand-bank called Gest, between which and the two traeths there is a deep channel. Eastward of this place is a lofty rocky mountain, called Llallth Gwyn, or white hill, whence an extensive view opens stretching over the village of Penmorfa, the bay of Caernarvon, the contiguous mountains, and the ocean. 1053 PENMORFA. ToHarlich the mouth of Traeth mawr and Traeth bach is crossed by a boat at the ferry. Upon the coast near Penmorfa grows Cheiranthus sinuatus. To Crickaeth, 3 miles, Pennant; Binglejr. — Harlech, 7 miles, Warner. — Tre Madoc, From Plaas Newydd, 5 miles, Hutton. PENMYNIDD, (the summit of the hill) in the hundred of Dindaeddwy, county of Anglesea, is situated near the great post road from London to Holyhead, 6m. from Bangor Ferry. The church is situated up¬ on an eminence, and supposed to have been built about the year 630, dedicated to St. Gredifel. It is a prebend with the curacy, the bp. of Bangor, patron. In 1801 the population of the parish was 400. It contains 3840 acres, nearly all cultivated. An Alm’s-house here consists of ten cham¬ bers, part of which belongs to other par¬ ishes. This was once the lordship of the ancestors of Owain ab Mercdydil ab Tudyr, commonly called Owen Tudor, second husband to Catherine of France, queen dowager of Henry 5; from whom descend¬ ed the royal family of Tudor. “ The re¬ mains of the residence of the Tudors are the door of the gateway ; part of the house, and the great chimney-piece of the hall may be seen in the present farm¬ house. Some coats of arms and dates of the building, or time of repairs, are to be seen, with the initial letters of the names of the owners. The Tudors for a consid¬ erable space before the extinction of their race assumed the name of Owen. Richard was the last male of the family and was sheriff of the county in 1657. Margaret, heiress of the house, married Coningsby Williams, esq. of Glany gors, in this island, who possessed it during his life. It was afterwards sold to lord Buikelcy, in whose descendent it still continues. In the church of Penmynydd is a most magnificent mon¬ ument of white alabaster, removed at the dissolution from the abbey of Llanfaes to this place ; probably erected in memory of one of the house of Tudor, who had been interred there. Upon it is the figure of a man in complete armour, a conic helm, and mail guard down to his breast. His lady is in a thick angular hood. Their feet rest on lions; their heads are support- PENMYNIDD. 1054 ed by angels,”—Pennant. In visiting- this place mr. Hutton walked 33m. to ex¬ amine it, tho’ at the age of 77, and spent two days in making enquiries. His re¬ marks are as follow. “ The chief that i» said of Owen, in history, is that “ he was accomplished, and a handsome Welsh gentleman.” And is this all the mam merits who furnished England with a nu¬ merous race of kings ? Shall he be con¬ signed to oblivion whom history has not charged with error? Let him live then in my page, since he has not found another. His private estate was not quite 400 acres; worth, in the present day 7r. 6d. an acre, 150?. per annum. As money, 378 years ago, was 10 times the value it is now, his estate must then have been about 15?. a year. He occupied it himself. The land forms the side of a hill, and declines to the w. The house is stone unhewn, the walls of which are 3 feet thick, and stands in the grounds, about 200 yards from the road, but fronting the n., and consists of only 2 stories, 4 rooms on a floor, all low and little. Tradition says, “ It has been rebuilt since Owen’s time;” and Pennant says, “ There is a gateway and a chimney- piece yet standing.” But tradition may mistake repairing for building; and mr. Pennant’s gate-way is certainly a common house door, without a porch, 3 feet wide, and forms a gothic arch. The thick wall being Ciphered off, and fluted in the gothic style, gives it a grander air. To this you rise by a semicircular flight of 4 steps. The chimney-piece is ample, of hewn stone, an elliptic arch, and in tolerable perfec¬ tion. It is contracted within, perhaps ow¬ ing to smoke. The room has been digni¬ fied by mr. Pennant with “The great hall.” It would better bear the name of kitchen, for I think it is not 15 feet square. If the door and chimney-piece be allowed to be.Owen’s, we must allow the whole, except a modern addition or two, whiclv seem to have been made to the back part of the house, facing the turnpike-road. A roof cannot be expected to endure 350 years; but when stone walls, 3 feet thick, arc kept dry, and fresh pointed, as the frost destroys the mortar, who can say how long they will not last. Over the house door, is a device cut in stone, too muclf weather-beaten to be understood. Over the stable door are the family arms. In the wall of the brew-house, are five stones 1055 PENMYNIDD. 1056 with inscriptions. On one; “Eslopus,” on another “ausdod,” (the first letter wanting); on a 3d, “ Vivela Vibas.” A 4th contains 8 or 10 words much defaced by time. On the fifth is j?' q' | 1650. These are perhaps the initials of 2 brothers who repaired the building. Upon a sum¬ mer, within the brew-house, 15 feet long, is a line of words, the whole length of the beam, in an ancient style, which I could not understand. By what means Owen found his way to court is uncertain, but at his first introduction, being unacquainted with the English tongue, he was called “The dumb Welshman.” I shall state the traditions which I obtained from elder¬ ly people born on the premises, and firm¬ ly believed by them. While Owen, with others, was dancing with queen Catha¬ rine, his knee happened to touch her. He tied a ribbon about his knee, “ Why do you use that ribbon, sir ?” “ Please your grace, to avoid touching you.” “ Perhaps you may touch me in another part.” Tra¬ dition does not say that her eyes spoke in plainer language than her tongue; lan¬ guage that could not be mistaken. The queen sent privately into Angleseato en¬ quire into particular-. Owen bribed the messengers, and apprised his mother of their errand.” “Arriving at Plus Penmy- niddy they found the mother dining on a dish of potatoes upon her knee.” To their interrogatories she replied, “ She fed up¬ on roasted and boiled (potatoes cooked two ways); that she would not take a ]00f. for her table (her knees); and that she kept 6 male and 6 female servants constantly under arms for her defence (goats with horns). When a man rises, like Owen, he stands as a butt for every one to shoot at. That the dance, the rib¬ bon, and the reply, may be true there is little doubt; but the roast, the boiled, the 100/. table, the potatoes, and the goats, were probably sneers thrown at the man who had risen higher than themselves. Po¬ tatoes were then unknown in Anglesea. Henry the 5th died in 1422, leaving his son Henry 6, 8 months old. Catherine of France, his widow, married Owen in 1428, and from what can be collected from his¬ tory they lived agreeably together. She n'ever acted on the political stage, and he was kept totally behind the curtain, not having conferred on him the honour of knighthood, till about 30 years after, b his son the earl of Pembroke. The king’s uncle assumed the reins of government, to whom this match was disagreeable. The queen lived 9 years after her marriage and died Jan. 3, 1437, in Bermondsey. She was buried, but when Henry 7, her grand¬ son built his chapel, she was taken up, and never interred after, but lay neglected in a shabby coffin, near her husband's monument in Westminster Abbey. Dur¬ ing the next 22 years, Owen appears to have sunk in his style of living, and in his resources, which perhaps were reduced to the issues of his estate The queen seems to have been his protector, for on her death, Humphrey duke of Glocester, caus¬ ed him to be apprehended and c >mmitted to the tower, because contrary to the sta¬ tute made in the 6th of this king’s reign (after the fault was committed) he had rriarried the queen without the king’s con¬ sent. He escaped out of prison, but was again apprehended, and committed to Wallingford castle, under the earl of Suf¬ folk ; out of which, by the assistance of a priest, he made a second escape, but was again taken by lord Beaumont and com¬ mitted to Newgate. Polychronicon says, that “Owen was an esquire of low birth, and as low a degree,” yet it is well known that Henry 7, his grandson, traced him up to the famous Cadwalader, and from him to Arthur, prince of Wales. By Catha¬ rine, Owen had 3 sons. Edmund, Jasper, and Owen, he had also a daughter, who died young. Tho’ the court look no no¬ tice of the father, except to punish him, they attended to the children. Edmund was created earl of Richmond, and married the heiress of the house of Beaufort, pre¬ tenders to the crown, after the reigning family. He died in 1456, at about the age of 27, leaving his son, afterwards Henry 7, 15 weeks old. Jasper was earl of Pem¬ broke. Owen took a religious order. [Hume mentions only 2 sons.] In 1459, Henry 6, granted to sir Owen Tudor 100L a year out of his manors of Falkston, Wal¬ ton and Bensted in Kent; and the next year some emoluments out of the lordship of Denbigh. But he enjoyed these only one year, for in 1461, he was taken prison¬ er by Edward the 4th, at the battle of Mor- timer’s-cross, in fighting for the house of Lancaster as an officer under his son the earl of Pembroke, was carried to Hereford, 1057 PENMYNIDD, suffered decapitation, without trial, and lies buried in the Gray Friars Church. Whether Tudor was a gainer or loser, by his elevation, the reader will determine. His private fortune would have supplied every necessary of life, and something more; all beyond is pride.”—“Remarks on North Wales.” To Beaumaris, 6 miles, Hutton. From Llandygai, 1 mile, Bingley. PENRHYN CASTLE, in the hundred of Is Gwyrfai, Caernarvonshire, the seat of dowager lady Penrhyn, is supposed to stand upon the site of a palace which in the 8th century belonged to Roderic Mwynog, the son of Edwal Iwrch, son of Cadwaladcr, the last king of the Britons, who began his reign in 720. During the contention of the rival princes, it was lev¬ elled to the ground, by Meredydd ap Owen in 987 ; who the same year, invaded this country, slew the reigning monarch, Cad- wallan ap Jefaf. The house appears to have been rebuilt in the reign of Henry 6, by Gwillim ap Gryffydd j and prior to late alterations exhibited a fair specimen of the domestic architecture, prevalent at that period. These alterations were made 'from designs by Wyatt. The whole is new fronted with yellow brick, which gives it the appearance of stone. The original de¬ sign of the castle has been respected, ex¬ cept that the Chapel has been removed to a grove a few yards distant. The moder¬ nized porch forms an heterogeneous ves¬ tibule, but the interior is neatly fitted up, the chancel part elegant; the pulpit com¬ posed of cedar, exhibits specimens in bas¬ so-relievo, perhaps never surpassed. The e. pointed window is of painted glass by the late mr. Egginton of Birmingham. The buildings enclose a large area or quadran¬ gle, with gateway, tower, a vast hall, sa¬ loon, and other apartments. The entrance into the park is through an elegant and highly finished gateway, resembling a ro¬ man triumphal arch. The grounds arc well wooded. The Stables are supposed to be among the first in the kingdom in re¬ spect to elegance and accommodation. They are fronted with purple slate. The Fences round the park, are constructed of long slips of fine blue state nailed to rails, having the appearance of pailing. The Baths are at the distance of lm. upon the S3 , PENRHYN. 1068 beach, near Port Penrhyn, in the way to which is the cottage of mr. Lloyd, the un¬ der-steward. This station commands an uncommonly fine view. The objects which form it are the sea, Orme’s head rock, Penmaen Mawr, Carnedd Llewelyn, and Carnedd Ddafydd, the island of An- glesea, from Beaumaris n. to Penmon, and Priestholme, with the woods of Baron- hill. The baths are seen immediately be¬ low. Out upon the sands, is an exten¬ sive weir and fishery. Here is still pre¬ served an elegant specimen of the Hirlas, or ancient drinking-horn. Another is in the possession of lord Cawdor, [see col. 739.] Fill with mead the Hirlas high, nor let a soul this day he dry ; the halls resounds, the triumph rings, and every bard the conflict sings. Ednyfed's trophied shield displays themes of glory; themes of praise; a lion, in the tented field ; a lamb when vanquish’d heroes yield. Fdnyfed ! bravest of the brave 1 his name shall live beyond the grave. Richard Lloyd. This large bugle of an ox is inchased with silver, and suspended by a chain of the same metal. At the end are engraved the initials of Piers Gry ffydd and family. The charming prospect just mentioned may be fully enjoyed from the delightful bowl¬ ing-green terrace of the Penrhyn Arms Inn, at which place the charges are very moderate. While employing an ample fortune with taste and judgment, lord Penrhyn gave a new aspect to this neighbourhood; and while he enriched himself promoted the interest of a numerous class of men. The professional skill of mr. Benjamin Wyatt, his lordship’s agent, brother to the cele¬ brated architect, and who possesses no small share of kindred genius, has been called into action, to adorn a tract of seve¬ ral miles round Penrhyn Castle. Mr. Wy¬ att’s own house, called Lime Grove, is built with exquisite taste. It is charming¬ ly sheltered among groves of trees, and stands on the 1. near where a Rail-way crosses the public road. Here is exhibit¬ ed the wonderful power of machinery. By means of an inclined plane, with an appa¬ ratus upon an eminence, about 20 small waggons are drawn up, and as many let down at the same time. They are drawn from the level by two horses, vvith great ease to the adjoining quay on the Menai» 1059 PENRHYN* PENR1CE CASTLE. 1060 ealled Port Penrhyn. This rail-way and it’s accompaniments cost about HO,000/. and the nett profits of the slate quarries, cannot on a moderate calculation amount to less than 15,000/. a year. Agriculture. In the vicinity of Cas¬ tle Penrhyn, all the modern improvements are adopted; and wheat, barley, turnips, ruta baga, and other crops and roots, un¬ der a good system, cover the ground ; but except there and round Macs y gross, the best practice of husbandry is little known or attended to. It must be owned, how¬ ever, that potatoes in several parts of Caer¬ narvonshire, are cultivated on a large scale, and very improved principle. They are raised on ridges by means of a two fur¬ rows plough, horse-hoed to mould them up, and dug up by the application of a- nother kind of plough, which passing under the roots, throws them on both sides with the same expedition as a horse can walk, while women and children pick up the produce.—Modern Travels, vol. iv, p. 11". On the 21st of January 1808, the public sustained the loss of Richard Pennant. Ba¬ ron Penrhyn, who died at his seat in Ches¬ hire. His remains were conveyed to Ca- pel Curig, and afterwards to Penrhyn cas¬ tle, where they were interred in the fami¬ ly vault. He served during several par¬ liaments as member for Liverpool. And no where could that populous and flour¬ ishing town have found a representative more capable of understanding and pro¬ moting it’s interests. His habits of appli¬ cation, thorough acquaintance with busi¬ ness, and complete knowledge of trade and of commercial concerns were very considerable. But in no respect was his lordship distinguished more honourably to himself and more serviceably to his coun¬ try, than by the magnificent improvements which he introduced into the county of Caernarvon. Judicious in his arrange¬ ments, and spirited in the execution of his plans, he entered on no measure, which either in itself, or as an example, was not beneficial to all around him. In the course of a few years the agriculture of his own large possessions and of the neighbouring country, made greater advances in im¬ provement, than it had done for several preceding centuries; and by the creation of an active and extensive trafic, the ma- terals drawn from his own estate, gave employment and food to thousands. Thus by his countenance and assistance, the ex¬ ample was set of making that country ac¬ cessible to itself and to the world, by the opening of roads throughout almost every pass among it’s mountains. In 1765 his lordship, then mr. Pennant, married. Ann Susannah, only child and heiress of lieut. general Hugh Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. He was son of Richard Pen¬ nant esq. of Penrhyn; created a baron, Sep. 26, 1783. To Port Penrhyn, 1 mile, Bingley. — Bangor, U miles. From Ostermouth Castle, 10 miles, Skrine. PEN RHYS, in the hundred of Swan¬ sea, Glamorganshire, is a remarkably neat village well shetered with wood, situated on Oxwith Bay, in the Bristol channel. In 1801 the population of this parish was 289. The Church is dedicated to St. An¬ drew, a perpetual curacy, not in charge, patron lord Vernon. It stands close to the village, is rcmakably neat, and at a distance is a pleasing object. The market is disused. The Fairs are held May 17, July 17, Sep. 17, Dec. 5, and old St. Andrew's day. The ancient market-place where the pedlers and hawkers expose their goods on fair- days, is still standing. The parish contains 1847 acres of land. Near the village is an old entrenchment. A house called the Sanctuary, at a little distance from the vil¬ lage, is said to have belonged to the manor of Millwood, or St. John’s, the property of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem. PENRICE-CASTLE, in Glamorgan¬ shire, is so called alter the family of the Penrices, originally Normans, who settled here in the reign of Edward 1. It appears from it’s ruins to have been magnificent. This castle is within the precincts of an extensive domain belonging to Thomas Mansel Talbot,' esq. which occupies a great part of the peninsula. Upon this do¬ main he has erected an elegant villa, with all the appendant beauties of wood and lawn, lake and promenade. The whole demesne seems as if it was recently, the complete improvement of a wilderness, with a bold view of the sea through the valley eastward. The unexpected appear¬ ance of flowers in great variety, (planted in the crevices of the rocks, or between segments of them, where nothing so luxu¬ riant could be supposed to vegetate) sui- rosi PEN RICK. PIERCEFIELD. 1062 prises the spectator in various places. Af¬ ter passing the shrubbery, to C-nter the garden, a heap oflarge unpolished stones, thrjvvn together, in a kind of regular con¬ fusion, composes the covering and sides of the door. Out of the river or lake, (which descends into the sea, and was lately formed out of the lap of the valley, abounding with fish from the ocean) sever¬ al little islands are seen to advantage. In June the large thorn near the stables, which is then in flower, has a fine effect in contrast with the green leaved scenery around. A very ancient marble monu¬ ment or tomb of one of the emperors, de¬ corated with images of the Graces and Mercury, finely sculptured, is placed un¬ der the shade of one of the trees, in the avenue to the garden on the r. hand side. Mr. Talbot has erected a neat, roomy, brick building for the accommodation of the incumbent of the living of Oxwich ; which is delightfully situated on the shore near the sea, so as to command a prospect of it’s extensive surface. About ^m. from the house is a marshy piece of ground, called Oxuiich Marsh, but lying in the par¬ ishes of Oxwich, Pen Rhys, and Nichol- aston, which was formerly overflowed by the sea, at high water, but lately recover¬ ed by means of a mud sea-wall, at the ex¬ pense of rar. Talbot. A large ditch is also cut round the n. side of it, for the purpose of drainage, which empties itself by means of iron flood-gates, into the pill communi¬ cating with the sea; and a further precau¬ tion is taken by carrying a wide channel through the marsh. This ground, consist¬ ing of nearly 200 acres, is now become an excellent pasture for cattle and horses; be¬ fore the sea was excluded, it was remark¬ ably healthy for sheep, but now if suffer¬ ed to feed there they are invariably infest¬ ed with the rot. About 3m. n. of Pcnrice, upon a moun¬ tain called Cum Bryn, near Llanridian, is a table-like monument or cromlech, called Arthur’s stone: it consists of a huge flat stone, supposed to weigh near 20 tons, supported upon 6 or 7 others about 5 feet in height; the smaller stones are placed in a circle. Beneath this stone is a spring ebbing and flowing with the tide, cele¬ brated as a Ffynnon Fair, ormy lady’s well. A few miles farther, near the mouth of the Loughor, is H'eohley Castle, which is des¬ cribed as a place of considerable strength, and as being still entire and partially in¬ habited. The difficulty of access to this Castle, and it’s detached situation, prevents most travellers from visiting it; similar reasons also prevents them from examin¬ ing a curiosity at JVormhead point, a bold promontory jutting far into the sea, and divided from the main land at high water by the sea overflowing it’s low isthmus. Near the extremity of the point is a cleft in the ground, into which, if dust or sand be thrown, it will be returned back into the air; and a person applying his ear to the crevice, will hear a deep noise, like the blovving of a large pair of bellows : this effect is attributed to the concussions of the waves of the sea among the caverns of the cliff. Back to Swansea, 12 miles, Skrine. From Chepstow, 2miles, Skrine ; Barber; Coxe with which his “ Tour in Monmouthshire” terminates. PIERCEFIELD, near Chepstow, in Monmouthshire, was long the property of the family of Walters. It was sold in 1736 to colonel Morris, of the island of St. Vin¬ cent, father of Valentine Morris, to whom it owes it’s improvements. In 1784 it was disposed of to George Smith, esq ., of Burn- hall, in the county of Durham; in 1794 to colonel Wood, formerly chief engineer at Bengal, who completedthepresenttaste- ful and magnificent mansion, alter it had been partly built by mr. Smith ; in 1S03 it was sold to the present proprietor Natha¬ niel Wells, esq. The house is constructed of free stone, and stands nearly in the centre of the park. It consists of a centre and 2 wings, the former having three stories, and the latter one. Among the specimens of art which embellish this mansion, are 4 exquisite pieces of gobeline tapestry, which belonged to Louis xvi. They ex¬ hibit the natural history of Africa, and re¬ present various productions, vegetable and animal, grouped with admirable skill, and uniting great correctness of design with richness and beauty of colouring. When mr. Barber applied for admittance at the lodge, he was informed that the grounds were shewn on Tuesdays and Fridays on¬ ly ; and the mansion from 11 to 4. It un¬ fortunately was Saturday. To wait till Tuesday would be a tax indeed; and to proceed without seeing Picrceficld would 1063 PIERCEFIELT). 1054 be a vile omission. The following means therefore were essayed. “ We rode,” says mr. Barber, “ up an embowered lane to the village of St. Arvans, and leaving our horses at the blacksmith’s, entered Pierce- Jfield grounds at a back gate. Here com¬ mencing a walk 3m. in length, we passed through agreeable plantations of oak, ash, and elm, to the edge of a perpendicular cliff called the Lover's Leap, overlooking an abyss-like hollow, whose fearful depth is softened by a tract of forest extending over the surrounding rocks. High, above competition at the n. extremity of the scene rises Wynd cliff: a dark wood fring¬ es it’s lofty summit, and shelves down it’s sides to the river Wye, which urges it’s sinuous course at the bottom of the glen. In one place, the river, gently curving, appears in all the breadth of it’s channel; in another, projecting rocks and interven¬ ing foliage conceal it’s course, or sparing¬ ly exhibit it’s darkened surface. Follow¬ ing the bend of the river on it’s marginal height, a range of naked perpendicular cliffs (the Bangor rocks) appear above the wooded hills which prevail through the scenery; of so regular a figure, that one can scarcely help imagining it the fortifi¬ cation of a town, with curtains, bastions, and demibastions. But a very leading fea¬ ture is, the peninsula of Llancaust; the hills of Piercefield hete receding into a semicircular bend, watered by the river im¬ mediately beneath, are opposed by a simi¬ lar concavity in the Bangor rocks; the whole forming a grand amphitheatre of lofty woods and precipices. From the op¬ posite side descends a fertile expanse, or tongue of land, filling up the area of the circle. This singular valley is laid out in a compact ornamented farm ; the richly verdant meadows are intersected by flour¬ ishing hedge rows ; while numerous trees diversify the tract, and imbower the farm¬ house. A row of elms shadows the mar¬ gin of the river, which, skirting the base of the hills, nearly surrounds the valley. These subjects disclose themselves in dif¬ ferent combinations through intervals in the shubbery which encloses the walk ; and which, altho’ selected from the nicest observations, are managed with so just an attention to the simplicity of nature, as to appear the work of her plastic hand. The Giant’s Cave, a little further, is a pas¬ sage cut through a rock. Over ooe of the entrances is a mutilated colossal figure, which once sustained the fragment of a rock in his uplifted arms, threatening to overwhelm whoever dared enter his re¬ treat; but some time since the stone fell, carrying the giant’s arms along with it. From this place a path, traced under the woods, descends to the Bath, a commod¬ ious building, concealed from outward view by impending foliage. Deserting fora while, the course of the river, we as¬ cend a superior eminence called the Dou¬ ble View, whence the different scenes which have presented themselves in de¬ tail appear in one comprehensive range. Here a new field of prospect discloses itself, much more extensive than the form¬ er, and beautifully picturesque. The mazy Wye, with all it’s interesting accompani¬ ments, passes from beneath us, through a richly variegated country to it’s junction with the Severn, beyond which silvery ex¬ panse the grand swelling shores of Somer¬ setshire form the distance. A curious de- ceplio visus occurring here must not be pas¬ sed over : it rises from a coincidence in the angle of vision between the embat¬ tled rocks already mentioned, and a part of the Severn ; which appears to wash their summit, altho’ it is many miles distant. The subject of the prospect from this spot is seen much more picturesquely combin¬ ed as we continue our walk on a gentle descent, and catch the varying scene through apertures in the foliage : yet there is something which one would wish added or removed, till we reached the Grotto, when a picture is presented in the hap¬ piest state of composition. In this charm¬ ing view from the grotto, a diversified plantation occupies the foreground, and descends through a grand hollow to the river, which passes in a long reach under the elevated ruin of Chepstow castle, the town, and bridge, towards the Severn. Rocks and precipices, dark shelving for¬ ests, grovesand lawns, hang on it’s course; and with a variety of sailing vessels, are reflected from the liquid mirror, with an effect I cannot attempt to describe, and at which the magic pencil of a Claude would faulter. The distant Severn and it’s re¬ mote shores form an excellent termina¬ tion, and complete the picture. Highly gratified with this delightful scenery, we returned by another track through tangled shrubberies, open groves, and waving 1065 PIERCEFIELD. 1066 lawns, to the mansion. Altho’ not exten. part of this fairy region to another, with. »ive, it has an elegant external appear- out discovering the gradations. Hence ance ; and as we are informed, is fitted up the Wye is sometimes concealed or half internally with a taste and splendour lit- obscured by overhanging foliage, at others, tie inferior to the first-rate houses in Eng- wholly expanding to view, is seen sweep- land. Remounting our horses at the ing beneath a broad and circuitous chan- village of St. Arvans, a steep ascent led nel; hence, atone place the Severn spreads over some out-grounds of Piercefield to in the midst of a boundless expanse of the summit of WyndclifF, where a prodig- country, and on the opposite side of the ious extent of prospect bursts open ; com- Wye; at another, both rivers appear on prehending at one view not only the dif- the same side, and the Severn seems sup- ferent scenes in the neighbourhood of ported on the level summit of the cliffs Chepstow, which appeared sunk into the which form the banks of the Wye. Hence lines of a map, but a wonderful range over the same objects present themselves in 9 counties.” Since these delightful pro- different aspects and with varied accom- ductions were aided and embellished by paniments; hence the magic transition Valentine Morris, a professed improver from the impervious gloom of the forest has been let in, who, with his shears and to open groves; from meadows and lawns his rollers, has produced some insipid uni- to rocks and precipices, and from the mild fortuity. beauties of English landscape to the wild- As one of the leading features in this ness of Alpine scenery.” scenery is the Wye, which passes round The charms of Piercefield, if not crent- the fertile peninsula of Llancaut, under a ed, were disclosed by Valentine Morris, semicircular chain of stupendous cliffs, it esq., about the year 1753, who engrafted is advisable to visit the place at high tide, the blandishments of art upon the majestic It is always preferable to pass through the wildness of nature without distorting it’s village of St. Arvans, to the upper part of original character. Philanthophic, hos. the grounds, and descend from the Lover’s pitable, and magnificent, his house was Leap to the Alcove; by taking this direc- promiscuously open to the numerous visi- tion the visitant will enjoy the entire tors whom curiosity led to his improve- scenery in proper succession, and to the ments; but, alas ! his splendid liberality, greatest advantage. Mr. Cox entered the his unbounded benevolence, and some un¬ grounds at the extremity of the village of forseen contigencies, involved his fortune. St. Arvans, and at the bottom of Wynd He was obliged to part with his estate. Cliff, the walk leads through plantations and take refuge in the West Indies. Be- as before described by mr. Barber, com- fore he left his country, he took a farewell manding on the r. a distant view of the view of Piercefield, and with manly re- Severn and the surrounding country. Mr. signation parted with that idol of his con- Coxe remarks that the l< walk is carried teir.plations. The industrious poor, whose through a thick mantle of forests, with oc- hanpiness he had promoted by his excr- casional openings, which seem, not the tionsand his bounty, crowded around him, result of art or design, but the effect of and on their knees implored the interposi- chancc or nature; and seats are placed tion of providence in his behalf, with tears ■where the spectator may repose and view and prayers. That mind which oft had at leisure the scenery above, beneath and melted at the recital of their sorrows, be- around. [These views are 1,the Lover’s held them now unmoved; nor did his firm- Leap ; 2, a Seat near tvvo beaches, on the ness forsake him in quitting what was edge of the precipice; 3, the Giant’s Cave; most interesting to him ; but after having 4 , the Half-way Seat, under a large beech crossed Chepstow bridge, hearing the tree; 5, the Double View; 6, above mournful sound of the muffled bells, he Pierce Wood ; 7, the Grotto; 8, the Plat- could not support so striking a mark of af- form; 9, the Alcove.] This bowery fection and respect without giving vent walk” adds he, “is consonant to the genius to tears. In quitting England he did not of Piercefield; the screen of wood pre- shake off the evils of his destiny. Being vents the uniformity of a bird’s eye view, appointed governor of St. Vincent’s he and the imperceptible bend of the amphi- expended the residue of his fortune in ad- tbcaire conveys the spectator from one vancing the cultivation of tire colony, and 1067 PIERCEFIELD. raising works for it’s defence, when the island fell into the hands of the French- Government failing to reimburse his ex- pences, on his return to England he was thrown into the King’s behclv prison by his creditors. He're, left destitute by his nearest relations, or a dole of broken vic¬ tuals only offered, he experienced all-the rigour of penury during a confinement of 7 years. Out of the numerous sharers of bis prosperity, his amiable wife, and one friend, only remained to participate his misery, and alleviate his distress. Even the clothes of his lady, who was a niece of lord Peterborough, were sold to purchase bread; and that nothing of evil might be wanting to fill his cup of wretchedness, the faithful partner of his cares, unable to bear up against continued and accumulat¬ ing misery, became insane. At length he recovered his liberty; and fortune, tired of chis long persecution, seemed to abate somewhat of her rigour; when death ere he had half completed the ordinary age of man, closed his checquered career at the house of his brother-in-law, mr. Wilmot, in Bloomsbury square, in the year 1789. The natural embellishments of Pierce- field rejects, with scorn, the decorative artifices of temples, statutes, obelisks; yet one solitary URN, simply dedicated to the memory of Valentine Morris, seems de¬ manded. No portion of gratitude how¬ ever has existed, for even this slender tri¬ bute has not been bestowed. ToTiniem Abbey, 3 miles, Barber. Back to Chepstow, 2 miles, Skrine. From Llanedwyn, 3 miles, Hutton. - Moely Don, 2 miles, Bingtey. -Caernarvon, upon the Menai, 6 miles, Pen¬ nant; Wyndham. - Llan ldan, 3 miles, Pennant. PLAS NEWYDD, (the new mansion) anciently Llwyn Moel (the church on the hill) one of the principal groves in Angle- sea, sacred to druidic worship, formerly the seat of sir Nicholas Bayley, but now - of lord Uxbridge. It stands upon the site of a house, belonging to the celebrated Gwenllian, a descendent of Cadrod Hardd. The present mansion is an elegant modest structure, and perhaps without exception, when the situation and the adjustment of the building to it, are considered, it exhib- PLA.S NEWYDD. 106$ its a great display of judicious taste. The front is composed of a centre and two wings, the former nearly semilunar and the latter semioctagonal. At each angle of the sides of the centre and wings an octagonal turret rises from the basement, above the embattled parapet, several feet, terminating in a small spire, surmounted with a gilded vane. The height is 3 stories, the windows plain sashed parallelograms, having square reverted labels; except the lower stories which contain 3 lights with mullions, tracery, and lozenged glass. The front is further extended by an elegant gothicised hall, over which is a chapel on nearly a similar plan. The interior and exterior correspond. The Entrance Hall on the n. side of the building is lofty, but from it’s gothic doors, niches, and other recesses, resembles a chapel. In front of the entrance is a colonade, enriched with tabernacle work, over which a passage forms a communication with the different apartments : the whole is lighted by a flat lanthorn dome. On the 1. is the Dining Hall, very extensive and lofty, having five large lancet shaped windows on one side and an elegant groined roof. Several por¬ traits by Vandyok, and other celebrated painters, adorn the walls. The Drawing Room in the centre of the front is lined with painted silk, the angles burnished gold. The Parlours, Billiard, and Anti- rooms correspond in neatness, and the Li¬ brary is handsomely finished. The State Bed and Octagon Sitting rooms are spa¬ cious, and highly ornamented. The Chap¬ el has 3 large pointed windows on each side with stained glass and a finely groined and fretted roof. The altar at the e. end is highly ornamented with tabernacle work, has a rededing canopy and on each side the entrance at the w. end are two enriched stalls- for the chaplains, over which is a handsome organ loft. The prin¬ cipal staircase is of stone, wide and lofty; the different corridores equally elegant and convenient; and the private spiral geometric staircase unique. The whole is built of marble, from the quarries of Moeljh, near Redwharf-bay, from the plan and superintendance of mr. Potter of Litch¬ field. The house, as seen from the water, backed by a dense wood has an imposing appearance. A parapeted bastion wall, placed as a defence against the sea, along which runs a handsome terrace in front of 1070 10(59 PIASS NEWYDD. Sic sloping lawn, together with'sea-battfi on the 1. and an elegant Greenhouse, on ther. add considerably to the strikingness of the effect. The Stables are elegant, spacious, and convenient. The Park, tho’ not extensive, is well wooded, and exhib¬ its by the aid of walk's and rides laid out with judgment, very considerable diver¬ sity. • At a little distance, near a path leading into the road from Plas Newydd, isalarge Carnedd ; which once covered a space of ground 142 yards in circumference, raised into a pyramid with stones, nearly the same size, thrown promiscuously together, and mixed with soil to favour the growth of trees on the surface. Sir Nicholas Baylcy, supposing this mound a mere heap of rub¬ bish, began to level it, but meeting with human bones the workmen were ordered to desist. The present state of the Car¬ nedd is a bank about 90 yards in circum¬ ference, and 14 feet high, composed of stones covered with grass, and here and there a tree. This bank is also sloped down on the inside, in the form of abowl or dish. At the bottom of this hollow lies a flat stone, ti feet square, which, support¬ ed at one end and two sides by other up¬ right stones, leaves an opening into which •a man might creep. At the lar end is a- nother stone, which lies in the same statp, but is only about 4 feet square. At six yards distance, arc some other parts. Two hundred yards n. of this carnedd, and the same distance from the Menai, stands the completes! Cromlech in Anglesea. The cap stone of this ancient british monument is 1‘2 feet long in the centre, and 10 broad. On one side it is 12^ feet long, and only 8 on the other. A corner seems always to have been wanting. The head or upper end of this stone, which lies flat, and points towards the e., is, in the thickest part, 4§ feet, and the other end 3£. This ponderous weight was supported by 7 up¬ right stones, 4 feet high, or rather the ir¬ regular points of 7, but ‘2 of them have fall¬ en. One lies within and the other is in an inclined position near the foot. It may give an idea of this druidic erection, which has weathered out more than ‘2000 years, to suppose it the inside of a small room, 4 feet high, and 6 wide, supported by five stones. As the Cromlech stands on the declivity of an eminence, the cap stone, on one side, is only 2 feet from the ground, that ground being also a little elevated, but oil the other side 4 feet. Eleven inch¬ es from the lower end stands a much smal¬ ler Cromlech. “Various conjectures,*’ says mr. Hutton, “have been spent on these venerable pieces of antiquity ; but I have no doubt of the greater' Cromlech having been appropriated for the sacrifice; the lesser, for the use of the priest, while he attended it. This altar of death was probably in use many centuries prior to the extinction of druidic worship. It ex¬ cites a melancholy idea, when we consider what a number of lives, both of the human and brute creation, have been sacrificed upon this fatal stone ! We might naturally ask, Is that religion which delights in blood ? Can that man be a minister of religion, whose daily practice is cutting throats? Andean that people who delight in such spectacles, be any other than sav¬ ages ?” Mr. Bingley differs much from this opinion when he says, “That these erections should have been intended as al¬ tars lor druidicsaenfices, seems altogether impossible. The upper stones are, in gen¬ eral, too small, and much too high for a fire to be kindled upon them, sufficient to consume the victim, without burning the officiating priest. The upper stones of sev¬ eral of them were also so thin, that thein- tenseness of the saciifical fire would have cracked and broken them.” One fact speaks strongly in favour of mr. Hutton’s opinion, which is, that these altars arc uni¬ formly lower at one end, and have a chan¬ nel cut in them, as if for the conveyance of blood. Mr. Wyndham says that in the beginning of November 1777, there was accidently discovered, at the hamlet of Brynkelly, be¬ tween Plas Newydd and Moel y don ferry, a subterraneous gallery, IS feet in length, 3 in breadth, and (5 in height. This led to a chamber of the same height, covered with a stone 12 feet long and 9 wide. A small round pillar seemed to afford some support to this stone from the centre of the room. Many human bones were upon the floor, which mouldered into dust on being touched. To Beaumaris mr. Pennant continued his journey within sight of the water, and at Craig y Ddinas he was irresistibly de¬ layed by a grand treat of a fine view of the noble curvature of the Menai. Not far hence he rode towards the shore, to admire 1071 PLASS NEWYDD* PLINLIMMON. 1072 the furious current of the Suielly, or Pwll keris. At low water this channel, fot a con¬ siderable space appears pointed with rocks black and horrible; and the fury of the tide among them is amazing. At high water all is still. A little lower down, upon a rocky peninsula, stands the church of Llandysilio, jutting far into the water. Porthaethuy, the most common ferry into Anglesea, is just below the church. The country hence to Holyhead is dreary, woodless, hedgeless ; yec rising into small hills, watered with various brooks, and fertile in grass and corn. Con¬ tinuing near the Menai, the opposite limits are inexpressibly beautiful, lofty, and finely cloathed with hanging woods. Ban¬ gor opens on the Caernarvonshire side; in front is a magnificent bay, bounded by the great promontory Pen Maen Mawr, and the vast llandudno, apparently insulated ; and the estuary of the river Conwy flows at it’s bottom, between noble head lands. This prospect is seen to great advantage from the green, near the castle of Beau¬ maris ; and in addition Priestholme island, the semi-lunarbay thence to the town, the Fortress, Baron-hill, and Red-hill. To Penmynidcl, 5 miles, Hutton. — Bangor, 5 miles, Wyndham. — Beaumaris, fi miles, Pennant. — Holyhead, 25 miles. The mountain of PLINLIMMON, or more properly Pumlumon, occupies a great extent of barren and dreary country. It is situated about 7 or 8m. s. of Mach- ynllaeth, about 12m. w. of Llanidloes, up the course of the infant Severn, and about 18 n-e. from Aberystwith. It’s name seems to have been derived from Pen lummon (the summit of the beacon). “The rug- gidness and inhospitality of the environs of this mountain,” says mr. Malkin, “is so unrelieved, that it affords little food for the picturesque enthusiasm of those who venture on the labours and perils of the ascent. It is the most dangerous mountain in Wales, on account of the frequent bogs, which hold out no warning, concealed as they are under a smooth and apparently firm turf. It should never be attempted without a guide.” “ The views from this huge and dreary hill are wild and exten¬ sive beyond description, exhibiting moun¬ tains beyond mountains, and under the most pleasing forms, varying and retiring till they are dissolved in the distant hori¬ zon. The atmosphere of this airy region is almost invariably hazy. At a hovel, near the foot of the mountain, on the n-e. side, a conductor may sometimes be had, but as it is impossible for any person fo gain a subsistence from the donations of visitors, such assistance is uncertain, and the ascent without is very precarious if not dangerous. Few travellers think themselves repaid in any kind of gratification from a visit to this mountain, it’s perpendicular height being far exceeded by Snowdon and Cader Idris. It is remarkable, that this dreary spot gives birth to 4 considerable rivers; two of which stand unrivalled in point of picturesque beauty, and the third, (after FatherThames) in commercial importance: the Llyffnant, Rhydol, Wye, and Severn. The Rhydol flows from the Llyn Llygad Rhydiol, and taking a s-w. course falls into the sea at Aberystwith. On the s-e. side, the Wye issues from 2 large fountains, called Wye or the River, by way of emi¬ nence; which becomes instantly so im¬ patient of controul, as to rush with great precipitation, and roll it’s impetuous tor¬ rents over a ledge of rocks, so as to form a bold tho’ barren cascade ; taking a s e. di¬ rection, after watering the counties of Rad¬ nor, Brecon, and Monmouth, flows into the Severn below Chepstow. The springs on the n. side of the mountain unite in a considerable lake, called Glas Llyn, whence flows the mountain river Llyflf- nant, which joins the Dovey near Machyn- Uaeth. The ascent is not difficult from steepness, but troublesome lrom the fre¬ quent bogs, which oblige the traveller to change his course. Near the summit on the ne. side, from a small pond, rises the Severn. The inhabitants of the country name this river Hafren or Havre n ; and a small hamlet which we passed, is called Glyn Hafren ; and sometimes Ha au rian, the queen. It may derive it’s name from sabi and sabrin, sandy; in latin Sabrina. At Llanidloes it is joined by a small river bearing the name of Si or Se, from the his¬ sing sound of it’s waters. Here a double junction is formed of the names, as well as the waters of these cogenitors of the Se¬ vern. The alteration is easy from Seha- vern, or as we have it in old maps Seavren, to Severn. It then runs n-i. and approach- 1073 PLINLIMMON. 1074 ing Newtown it’* course thence is due w. through the vale of Montgomeryshire. Be¬ yond Welshpool it enters the great plain of Shropshire, and making a considerable sweep turns abruptly to the s-i. It then almost encircles the town of Shrewsbury, pursuing the same direction till it passes Colebrook-dale. Soon after it flows to Bridgnorth and enters the county of Wor¬ cester a little 3bovc Bewdicy, where it receives the Stour at Stourport, then the Salwarp ; soon afterwards it accepts the tribute of the Beverborn, or Otter-river. Passing the pleasant mansions of Hallow, and Henwick-hill, it approaches Worces¬ ter in a broad stream. Two miles below Worcester it receives the Teme. Previous to it’s making it’s entrance into Glocester- shire, it forms a junction with the Shake¬ speare-inspiring Avon, a little above Tewkesbury, then passing though the county receives the Wye near Chepstow', the Usk near Newport, and afterwards dis¬ solves in the british channel. Severn is famed for the fine salmon it affords. Be¬ low Glocester the Severn is remarkable for the uncommon vehemence of it’s tides, occasioned by the resistance it meets with from a current of fresh water. They clash in such a manner as to dash the waters to a considerable height. This contest is called Hygra, probably from cau guerre, a water war. The Severn is of the great¬ est importance as a navigable river, as it opens a conveyance from Montgomery¬ shire in N. Wales, through the fertile coun¬ ties of Salop, Worcester and Gloucester to Bristol. The vessels employed upon this river as far upas Shrewsbury are trows or barges, carrying from 40 to 120 tons bur¬ den. The height of Plinlimmon is not great, when compared with it’s neighbour Cadar Idris, yet the view from it’s sum¬ mit is extensively grand; tho’ part of it lies over the trackless sheep downs of Montgomery, and the barren turbaries of Caerdigan. On the n. the Cader chain ap¬ pears enveloped in mists, stretching out towards the sea; on the e. the Breidden and the mountains of Radnor; on the w. the romantic vale of the R hydol, the estuary of the Dovey, and the beautiful bay of Caerdigan, diversified by a few sails of ves¬ sels at Abcrystwith and Abcrdovey ; with the grand expanse of the ocean, uniting with the horizon. This mountain is not only famous for be¬ ing the father of rivers, but alto as an im¬ portant station, held by the great Owen Glyndwr in the summer of 1401, who here posted himself at the head of 120 men in arms. It was from this place that he har¬ assed the country exceedingly, sacked Montgomery, burnt Pool, and destroyed the Abbey of Cwm Htr in Radnorshire. The land here is wholly maiden turf. The hand of cultivation has not yet ap¬ proached this vicinity. In the rev. J. Evans’s account of Mont¬ gomeryshire, in the Beauties of England, vol. 17, p. 846, he gives the following ac¬ count of this mountain, copied from the m. s. of a traveller. “ As we approached the top of the mountain, the surface ex¬ hibited patches of coarse grass, intermix¬ ed with heaps of loose stones, and frag¬ ments of rock, lying in all directions, a- mong which are quantities of very pure quartz. Amid these blocks of quartz are numerous hillocks of peat earth, so light as to be driven about by the wind, like sand hills near the sea coast. The summit shoots out into two small heads, upon each of which is a carnedd. That upon the high¬ est peak is of a pyramidal shape; perhaps once used as a military beacon. Those of the welsh, w ho ascend to this summit, each places one or more stones upon the heap, calling it Cornu y Plynlimmon; this custom is held sacred. Numerous birds frequent the mountain, ravens, cranes, herons, snipes, both the lesser and greater, with flocks of plovers. On a clear day the hills of Cardiganshire appear beneath, like so many hillocks, expanding to a great ex¬ tent, in various directions ; Cardigan bay, with St. George’s channel to the w., to the n. Cader Idris, and part of the Snowdonian chain, which parts Merioneth from Caer¬ narvonshire ; to the n-e. the Breidden hills ; and to the k. parts of the counties of Hereford and Salop. Descending down by a different path, the rugged and bog¬ gy sides of the mountain, return to Blaen hufien. After passing a rivulet, called Hore, running to the s. of Hafren, in a s-e. direction, pass the Biga mountains, at Cicm Biga, and passing Llwyn y Gog, cross the river Clezoedog, at New mill; and reach the turnpike-road from Llanydloes to Machynllaeth, at the 11th mile stone. The night was dark, the rain heavy, the horses were jaded, and our spirits exliaust- cd, when we arrived at Rhyd porthmaen , a 1075 PLINLIMMON* PONT ADERGLASLYN. 1076 miserable hovel, ycleped a public house. Compelled by necessity to remain here; svcfoundiu'the morning thatthe surround- lagicountry was a mineral tract, and pro¬ ceeded to explore it’s subterraneous trea¬ sures. Tallafi mine, the property 6f sir Watkin Williams Wynne, lying on the s. side of the small river Tzm/mmin, which rises in the small lake of Glas Llyn, and running e. joins the Bran to the e. of Mall- wyd ; rolling before it arrives at Istrad Gallad, with great precipitation over rocky ledges, producing a fall of about 50 feet. This mine contains rich veins of ore and was long successfully wrought, but the water increased so much as to cause it to ■be abandoned. Isgar Gallad mines, on the -opposite side, belonging to mr. Salter of Machynllaeth are in work. The ore is .chiefly steel grained, containing a suf¬ ficient portion of silver to answer the pur¬ pose of assaying. The matrix is quartz, or hard compact shale, mixed With quart- zose spar. The dip forms 60° with the horizon,. from w. to e. Dymfyngum or vulgarly Dyngum mine, belonging to mr. Griffith Jones, is nearly worked out. From Beddgelart, 2 miles, Pennant; Bingley; Skrine. - Maentwrog, over Moel Wyn yr Hydd, 12 miles, Evans. -Tan-y-bwlch, 7j miles, Wyndham; Warner. - Taa-y-Bjylch, by the edge of the Traeth Mawr, miles, Aikiii; Hutton. PONT ABERGLASLLYN, (the bridge at the conflux of the blue pool) on the road to Maentwroc over the main stream which discharges itself into the estuary of Traeth Mawr, and is the principal entrance by the s. into Caernarvonshire, which county it separates from that of Merioneth. There is nothing remarkable in the bridge, which is a single arch, it’s chord 30 feet, but the scenery around is most magnifi¬ cent. The road winds most romantically along a narrow stony vale, where the dark perpendicular cliffs on each side, so nearly approach, as only just to leave width suf¬ ficient at the bottom, for a good carriage road and the bed of the rapid stream, form¬ ed by the united torrents of the Colwyn and Glas Llyn, which rolls by it’s side. A few yards above the bridge is a small cataract, remarked as being a salmon leap. It’s height above the bed of the river is about 13 feet, and generally 8 or 9 feet from the surface. The salmon come up the rivers the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as the beginning of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the sandy shallows, and have the power of leaping to a great height over rocks and dams. This place being only a few miles from the sea, is: frequented by great numbers; they are; however, prevented from ascending by a net placed for the purpose during the months of August and September, by peo¬ ple who rent the river. By this means the fish are kept in the still waters below, where they are either taken in nets, or barbarously struck with harpoons. Sev¬ eral attempts have been made to procure copper near Pont Aberglasllyn, but the ore is not rich. Similar trials have been made near the very summit of Snowdon, as well as among the other mountains, not wholly without success. Anglcsea stands yet un¬ rivalled for the richness and value of it’s copper. Mr. Warner visited this bridge Aug. 20, T797, and waited a considerable time upon it to see the fish leap; but only 2 attempt¬ ed, and without success. Advancing to Beddgelart the pass ex¬ pands to a little plain. Upon the road side a stone is pointed out and called the chair of Rhys Goch o'r ’Ryri, the celebrated mountain bard, contemporary with Owen Glyndwr. He was of the house of Hafod- garegog, at theentranceantoTraelh-mawr sands, whence he frequently walked, and sitting upon this stone, composed many of his poems. After having escaped the ven¬ geance of the English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, and animating them into a tedious and gallant defence of their native rights, he died a- bout the year 1420, and was interred at Beddgelart. Towards the termination of this plain, on the 1. of the road, appears the pleasantly situated Beddgelart hotel. On a bog near Pont Aberglaslyn grow Osmunda regalis, and Myrica gale; on bank sides near the bridge, Senecio syl- vaticus. AN EXCURSION To Ihe Promontory of Llyn, might be taken from this bridge, by mak¬ ing our entry on the excellent new road at the foot of the mountains, overlooking the traeth or estuary, which, with it’s small but picturesque rocky islands, form at high water very striking objects. Even ! 1077 PONT ABERGLASTIN'. 10-78 when the tide-has retired, the varied and abrupt outlines of the mountains in the vicinity of Harlech and Festiniog appear doubly striking from the flatness of the foreground. At the distance of between 2 ar.d 3m. from Pont Aberglaslyn, the con¬ tinuity of the mountains is broken by a valley about^m. wide, with a little stream running through it, in which is situated Tre Madoc. On the opposite side of the valley the mountains again rise, forming a triangular group, the base of which marks the n. boundary of the entrance of:the Traeth from the sea. W. the coast is rocky, but not mountainous, with narrow sandy tracts of considerable length between the cliffs and the sea, and detached rocks, from 50 to '500 feet high placed generally on the edge of the water, and sometimes forming little islands, mostly within a few hundred yards of ihe shore. The n. coast of this promontory is more uniformly rocky than the s. and, except in a few of the bays there is no sand or gravel to be perceived. Some of the mountains approach close td the shore, forming precipices of consider¬ able elevation. The interior of the coun¬ try is varied, tho’ it presents none of those deep glens and continuous chains of moun¬ tains which characterize the rest of Caer¬ narvonshire : it’s surface is for the most part, what would be called upland pasture in England; interrupted occasionally by narrow and often marshy vallies, with in¬ terspersed conic mountains, either solitary or in small groups. The fields are divided by stone walls or earthen mounds, and trees are generally wanting, which gives the district a bare appearance. Some line timber is however to be found in several of the vallies, and even in exposed situa¬ tions there sppears no difficulty in raising wood. The general character of the soil is light and stony ; but, from it’s situa¬ tion with regard to the mountains, being both dryer and warmer than most other parts of the county, the quantity and value of it’s agricultural produce is proportiona- bly larger: many cattle are reared here, and the horses of the district are greatly superior to the average of welsh ponies ; a superiority to be attributed, probably, in no small degree to mr. Parry, of Madrin, who possesses a stud, among which arc- several fine hunter stallions. The mari¬ time trade of the district is carried on for the most part at Pwllheli. The little borough crf Cjiickaeth is situated on »• small bay a few miles to the n-e. of Pwll¬ heli. The spirit of improvement, so visible in most other parts of N. Wales, has been peculiarly active in this district. It was first visible in the construction of a good road from Caernarvon to Pwllheli, and since in the spirited undertakings of mr. Maddocks and mr. Parry. A project was conceived-of diverting the stream of passengers between Dublin and London, from the accustomed track through Holy- head and Chester, by offering a line of road shorter by several miles, aDd in which the troublesome and dangerous passages of Conwy and Bangor ferries sbould be avoid¬ ed. For this purpose, good carriage-roads have been opened from Capel Curig; iu one direction, and Maentvvrog in another to Beddgelart, whence an excclleut line of communication has been formed along the edge of Traeth mawr, through the new town of Tre-Madoc, to the little bay of Forth Dijnelleyn on the n. coast of the pro¬ montory, not far from Ncfyn. The adva'n- tagesofthisharbour (wherea town is build¬ ing) over Holyhead, are, that it is better sheltered, that even at the lowest ebb tide there is plenty of water for the largest packets to go in and come out, and that the frequent loss of one or two tides, now experienced by the packets being forced by n-w. gales into Caernarvon bay is cn. tirely obviated. Whether this scheme will meet with the success it appears to merit is not ascertained. Two other probable sourc¬ es of improvement to this district are the extensive embankments of the marshes and sands of Traeth mawr, carrying on by mr. Maddocks; and the introduction of the cotton manufactory into his new town. The general dip of the strata in this pro¬ montory is the s-w.; on the n. coast we find chlorite slate and coarse serpentine, the latter of which is intermixed with veins of calcareous spar and red jasper. This serpentine is particularly abundant at Forth Dynclleyn, where the piers and new houses are constructed of it. Upon the Chlorite slate rests beds of primative ar¬ gillaceous schistus and griinstein, some* times alternating one with the other: of these minerals the former is generally in the state o! coarse common slate; in some places, however, it is largely mixed with carbon, forming a hard kind of drawing slate, and in others is penetrated both by I 1079 PONT AR DUIAS. PONT NEATH FAUGHAN. 1080 carbon and pyrites, forming alum slate; the griinsteinconsistsof white and greenish crystals of felspar, largely mixed with chlorite and hornblende. The above men¬ tioned strata form the general level of the district, rarely rising into hills, except at the e. extremity. The higher hills consist entirely of smoke-coloured horn-stone por¬ phyry; their figure is for the most part regularly conical, and their surface is re¬ markably rough with broken fragments. The lower hills, especially on the s. coast, have a strong tendency to form banks and ridges, and are chiefly compact felspar, of a whitish-gray colour, and not unfrequent- ly phorphyritic. No mines of any descrip¬ tion have been opened in this district.”— The Athenaeum, vol. iii, p. ‘24. [See col. 421 .] To Penmorfa, 7 miles, Pennant; Bingley. — Beddgelart, miles, VVyndham; Aikin; Evans; Warner. — Caernarfon, IS miles. — Tan-y-bwlch, 64 miles, Bingley ; Skrlnc. From Llanelly, 6 miles, Malkin. - Swansea, 12 miles, Skrinc. PONT AR DULAS, Caermarthenshire. The bridge over the little river Dulas, which here joins the Lwghor, separates the counties of Caermarthen and Glamor¬ gan. The breadth and importance of the larger river, and the engaging character of the scenery, with the lengthened reach of the vale down to Burry river, which is the mouth of the Lwghor, distinguished by a different name, render this solitary house a desirable place for strangers to stop at, particularly as the accommodations are good. The road to the 1. by Newbridge, Bryn y Maen, and Llannon, through a country rather rugged, is the course which the mail takes from Glamorganshire to Caer¬ marthen. The situation of Llannon is ele¬ vated, and the view from the church-yard extensive; but there is nothing, says mr. Malkin in this stretch of country to repay the labour of passing over it. Not so be¬ tween Pont ar Dulas and Llandilo Fawr. To Llandebie the road, for the most part, runs on high ground, and is traced a- long the ridge of a hill, overlooking aval- fey on each side, with hanging woods, cultivated fields, and enclosures thickly planted. Towards the n-e. the black moun¬ tains raise their heads above the tops of the fruitful hills which line the valcofLwg. hor. After passing a common, you come down upon the upper vale of Lwghor, and overlook a great part of the rich country towards Llandilo Fawr. A little beyond, Lwghor river is to be forded, which is here a slender and shallow stream, except after heavy rain, when it is rapid and dangerous. The village of Llandebie is far from mean. There are few rides more various and pleas¬ ing than from Llanbedie to Llandilo Fawr. But the traveller must not be diverted from exploring Carreg Cennin Castle. The path is wild and difficult to find without a guide. [See col. 741.] The road to Llanelly lies principally along the banks of the Lwghor river. To Llandilo Fawr, 14 miles, Malkin. — Llanelly, 6 miles, Skrine. PONT NEATH FAUGHAN, or Pont ar Nedd Fechan, i. e. the Bridge on the lesser Neath, is a collection of poor Cottages, upon the s. edge of Breconshire, in the parish of Ystrad Fellte, in the hundred of Defynoc. There are 8 Fairs held annually in this little village ; i. e. on the first Sa¬ turdays after March 12, May 12, July 5, Aug. 26, Sep. 21, Nov. 14; and a small weekly market for butcher’s meat, meal, and other necessaries for the inhabitants. It contains a homely public-house, where resides the unaccommodating and inde¬ pendent mrs. Mary Jones. Yet, in some instances, flattery has completely succeed¬ ed in gaining favour with this lady ; those are proofs, which shew (maugre all her austerities) that she is not invulnerable to soft persuasion. Poor human nature has always an unprotected weak corner at which cunning may aim a sly attack. She, however, imagines herself of very great importance, as may readily be inferred from the following anecdote, which the editor received from a friend who had col¬ lected it upon the spot. “ Sir Benjamin Hammet, having occasion to visit some of his works in S. Wales, called at the Pont Neath Faughan public-house, asking for accommodation, which was peremptorily denied. Sir Benjamin perceiving that he was unknown, mentioned his name and adverted to his possessions in Wales ; ad¬ ding that, at that time, he had the honour of filling the office of lord mayor of Lon- 1081 PONT NEATII FAUGHAN. 1083 don. Mrs. Jones, planting her arms a kim- bo, exclaimed, in answer, “ Well sir, and do you know who I am r I am lady mayor of PontNeddFanghan!” Having received this rebuff, sir Benjamin found it necessary to proceed, under every inconvenience, to more distant and more civilized house¬ keepers. The reader should be informed that the distance from this place to the Bridgizater-arms, in the vale of Taff, is 30m. between which places there is no ac¬ commodation; and therefore a long day with suitable provisions are necessary for the performance. The village of Pont nedd Fattghan stands at the head of the valley, at the confluence of 5 rivers, each of them contributing it’s rocks, woods, and water-falls to the general grandeur and magnificence which here seem brought to a focus. The Nedd river is the principal. It’s double head is mentioned by Drayton. One branch rises at the distance of some miles due n. but the Nedd fcchan branch rises far to the n-e. upon mount Denny, and after dividing the counties of Brecon and Glamorgan, joins it’s sister stream at this village. The other tributaries are the Mellte, the Hepste, and Tringarth, which join the first in it’s way from Ban Gyhy- rych, (a mountain) and Maen Lila, (a large stone), and fall into the Purddin which here enters the Nedd river. At this place are some considerable coal-works, belong¬ ing to lord Vernon, and mr. Jones of Pont y pool. In some places the vein is 95 feet perpendicular measure. The entry into the mountain is made by levels or adits, whence the coal is drawn by a horse. The cascades in every direction within 3 or 4m. of this place are so numerous that it is scarcely necessary to visit them all. Nedd, Mellte, Tringarth, and Purddin, have each of them one, besides a wonderful cavern through which the Mellte runs. The Hcpste has five. Mr. Malkin selected thoseof the Tringarth, Hepste, and Mellte, as comprising the boldest and most char¬ acteristic features, and as suiting best the course he meant to pursue. In order to explore the beauties of these rivers, he advises that the Merthyr Tydfil road be followed till it lead to a grand pass, form¬ ing as sublime and romantic a scene as can be conceived. This pass from Pont nedd Faughan to Merthyr is called Craig y Dinas, from it’s inaccessible situation, but it can¬ not be supposed to have ever been a mili¬ tary station; the summit is so extremely narrowed by the vale of Mellte, and the precipitous rocks upon the banks of the Sychryd, that there is no room for any body of men, and in the course of time, the rock will be diminished much, for human la¬ bour is continually employed in excavat¬ ing it, by which a considerable quantity of lime stone is procured aDd a vein of most excellent fire clay, the Argillum Leucar- gillum, nearly 20 feet in thickness has been discovered here. This pass forms, with the Byrthin and it’s wildly overgrown banks, and concomitant impending cliffs and woods, one of the finest scenes in Wales. The acclivity on the 1. is completely cloth¬ ed with magnificent timber, contrasted with the rougher growth and sometimes naked pinnacles of the opposing ridge. The Brecon road above it is intercepted by the wood ; while the front is occupied by an immensely high, abrupt, and rugged crag, nearly perpendicular. The Merthyr Tydfil road here makes nearly a right an¬ gle with that of Brecon, over the hill; but the visitor of the cascades has to climb this difficult and awful rock. Having reached the top of the ctaig, in crossing to the r. you look down upon a dingle, through which the Mellte river flows, and opposite you have a water- fall. The little brook Sychryd, or dry ford, which falls in¬ to the united streams of the Mellte and Hepste at the foot of Craig y Dinas, here divides the counties of Brecon and Gla¬ morgan. It is impossible to resist the temptation of a short walk up the brook on the Glamorgan side to take a view of the Bwa Maen, or bow of stone. Mr. Warner, who first described this scenery, has given a faithful print of this singular phenomenon. This rock, says he, “is a huge mass of the calcareous kind, taking an excellent polish, and when burnt is good lime. It consists of several strata of marble in the rock disposed in directions most whimsical and uncommon. The rock which protrudes itself from the parent mountain, presents a flat face beautifully variegated and ornamented with trees and shrubs. The form of Bwa Maen approach¬ es to that of a quarter of a circle and it’s various strata preserve the direction of this outline. The height may be 90 or 100 feet, and the breadth 70 or 80. The curvature is formed by a sweep made in the strata from the 1. to the r.: these continue their mss Pont neatii faugh an. ios4 circular form till they reach the top of the Tock, when they assume a different one, and drop suddenly to the earth in a ver¬ tical direction. On the r. of the curved strata the lime-stone is thrown out by a fault, and is replaced by the coal and iron¬ stone measures, on the 1. also the rock is limestone.” The inquisitive spirit of rar. Warner however did not penetrate every recess in this rock, for mr. Theop. Jones, says that “ in this part of the rock is a large and extensive cavern, called by the inhabitants Yfftorn, the oven ; in this the sheep and goats frequently shelter.” “The rocky bank on the r.” continues mr. War¬ ner, “ ascending abruptly from the brook, is clothed with wood from the top to the bottom: on the 1. a similar elevation ap¬ pears, more rude and bare than it’s oppo¬ site neighbour, exposing a flat face of mural stratified rock, but crowned with a noble mantle of trees, while at it’s feet a roaring cataract tumbles from fragment to fragment, and is separated from the mighty detached mass of rock called Bwa maen. From the circumstance of a rainy season arose much of the beauty of this scenery ; the torrents which fell during the night and the showers which poured down dur¬ ing the morning had given a character of fury to this mountain stream, of which it is entirely divested in dry weather. Even in moderate seasons the brook itself dis¬ appears and entering into a hole in the rock, about 150 yards above the curved strata it becomes invisible for about |m. and then falls from another aperture into the Mellte river, a little below Dinas bridge. Leaving this sublime scene we ascended the steep hill upon the r. of it, and passed over the head of Bwa maen, whence we had a singular bird’s-eye-view of the thundering torrent and the rocky glen through which it poured it’s impet¬ uous waters. Hence we again scrambled down a precipitous declivity to the mar¬ gin of the same brook in order to see from the most favourable station an immense perpendicular lime-stone rock finely spot¬ ted with vegetation, the Sychryd river roaring at it’s foot. A lofty crag is detach¬ ed from the precipice, called Ystrol Gwidd- on*s, or the chair of the witch.” Mr. Warner hence crossed the common to the river Hepste, meeting in his way with a considerable vein of the laminated species of lerra ponderosa, or sulphate of barytes. At the upper end of the common, mr. Malkin informs us, that “ there is a farm house above the Hepste, whence the view down the vale of Nedd to Swansea and the Mumbles, is very grand and extensive. Beyond the farm-house is the point where the Hepste and Mellte join. The bed of the former is an immense depth immed¬ iately below, and the 2 streams are sepa¬ rated by a rich, turfy, well-wooded pro¬ montory, forming a frontispiece to the view, when you look up the course of the united rivers the roaring of the Hepste cascades is heard at a considerable dis¬ tance, as they are approached from the up¬ per grounds. On arriving at the edge of the dingle, the great fall bursts at once upon the view : a broad sheet of water projecting over an abrupt ledge of rock, to the depth of 50 feet. The distance of the fall from the junction of the 2 dingles with their streams is less than ^m. so that both these objects can be embraced at once from the higher ground. The descent by which to examine the fall more minute¬ ly, is down a rugged and steep rock, which forms the boldest feature in the din¬ gle at the bottom, but affords a very abrupt and hazardous passage. The road after¬ wards, strange as it may seem, lies behind or under the cascade; for such is the ra¬ pidity of the torrent, that the interwoven sheet is thrown out so far as to leave a clear passage, at all times, wide enough for a horse-path, between the falling river and the rock. This path is formed by a rude natural ledge of half worn stone, covered with moss, at about one-third of the height from the bottom of the preci¬ pice. It’s breadth is about 3 feet, and constitutes the only projection upon the surface. The stone, however, shelves a little inwards from the topmost edge, while the water is projected forwards, so that the two elements unite in forming a roof or canopy over the head of the pas¬ senger. Mr. Warner says, he sought a shelter under this river from a shower of rain. The effect of sunshine upon the cas¬ cade, when behind it on a fine day is both grand and beautiful. After passing this cascade and skirting the side of the dingle for a few steps, in front of the majestic rock before descended, the tourist comes upon another cataract, and a large cavern under the opposite bank close by. Three more follow in immediate succession, and 1085 PONT NEATII FAUGIIAN. 108<5 all 4 within an eighth part of a mile from the first. The most considerable of these is about 25 feet in height, and the smallest about 10. The last is the largest. These 4 are all seen at once ; but, owing to a bend of the river, the great cascade, tho’ so ncar,isnot seenevenfromthe firstof these. The whole of this dingle is profusely over¬ grown with wood of various kinds. From the last of the cascades, the scarcely dis- cernable path winds round the front x>f that promontory, which separates the two dingles and their rivers. The country peo¬ ple drive their cattle this way, and under Hcpste cascade, when they have occasion to pass from the Mcllte to the e. side of the Hepste. Having gained the high ground, and passed two or three stony and unproductive fields, the brink of a preci¬ pice, not to be descended, discloses the great fall of the Mcllte, which is broader than that of the Hepste, and 70 feet high. It is very different from the other in point of character. It projects as suddenly, and carrying a larger body of water with more violence. It is therefore more awful and tremendous, but unaccompanied by those circumstances of variety and beauty, which adorn and enliven it’s rival cataract. The cascade is inaccessible from below. The great curiosity of this river, singularly and sublimely characterised in the catalogue of British scenery, is a stupendous cavern, called Forth yr oguf, between the cascade and Ystradfcllte, through the dark hollow of which the Mcllte runs for the space of £m. The descent from the upper land to the bed of the river is by no means diffi¬ cult; nor does it at the first view present any thing beyond a rural quiet landscape ; but as the guide wound cautiously to the 1. rather in a retrograde direction, we sud¬ denly found ourselves at the mouth of the cavern, the opening of which is about 43 feet wide, and 19 high. Through this the Mellteriverrolls in a sinuous course, wear¬ ing it’s channel through the rock, deeply perforated into fathomless pools, whence it issues into day-light, after a subterrane¬ ous passage of at least 800 yards. There is a practicable passage through it; but the attempt would be imprudent. It is neces¬ sary to carry candles; and if they should be extinguished by the damp vapour, the difficulty and danger would become very great. My guide had been through several times, aud was ready to undertake it again. We penetrated about 100 yards, as far aa any glimmering of day-light from tha mouth directed us j and this specimen of stygian horror was amply sufficient to sat¬ isfy all rational curiosity. There is a pas¬ sage to the r. where it is necessary to take candles, which having pursued for a short way you come to a very considerable area, excavated to a great height, and partially illuminated by an aperture at the top. The effect is most striking and stupendous, [See col. 191.] On quitting the cavern the Melltc finding it’s way into it through deep and narrow gullets, worn between the rocks, is crossed at the entrance, when a regular and beaten path winds gradually and pleasingly along the w. bank, with the little village of Ystradfellle in the dis¬ tance, and green meadows, delightfully quiet and rural, in the foreground. The village consists of a few miserable cot¬ tages, most of them ruinous, inhabited by a ragged and barefooted peasantry, witlj less of natural urbanity, than is usually experienced in these wild, but not uncivil regions. The road hence to Brecon is over mountains, most dreary, wild, and desolate, till within the distance of 3 or 4m. The hills are covered with unvaried turf, affording excellent sheep-walks, but rising one above the other, without a sin¬ gle twig to relieve the wearied eye. The only object of interest is another fall of the Mcllte, about 2m. n. of Ystradfcllte. The augular direction in which the river pro¬ jects is wild and romantic. It is now at no great distance from it’s source, and very shallow, rippling over loose frag¬ ments of rock ; but it is unaccompanied with wood, or any other picturesque cir¬ cumstance. After this, the road and pros¬ pect became disgusting, toilsome, and un¬ sightly, till on crossing the w. side of the Beacons, at a considerable height, but through a cleft with lofty ridges on each side, the flat country of Breconshire to¬ wards the n. with part of Radnorshire, extensive, fruitful, and improved, is un¬ folded. Proceeding from Pont neath Faughan, upwards against the course of the Neath, the Fyrddin falls into that river from the w. In a walk from the village, mr. Warner discovered on each side of the river, several mounds of earth and stones, some of them ‘2 or 3 yards long, others 4 or 5 and one yard high, placed at equal distances and in parallel lines, probably 1087 PONT NEATH FAUGHAN. 1058 the remains of mineral works. In pro¬ ceeding further, he reached a black preci¬ pice in the shape of an amphitheatre. The r. side of this chasm, is fringed with the mountain ash, willow, &c. while on the 1. is presented a face of naked rock. In the centre the river tears through a narrow gloomy glen, and falls from an elevation of 70 or 80 feet, in one grand unbroken sheet of water, an oak throwing it’s wavy head over the stream, at the point whence the svater is precipitated down the face of the rock. This cataract is called Scwd (or Ysgwd) Einon Gam. Just below the Junction of the Pyrddin and the Neath is another waterfall, called ’Scrcd Gutlndis. After the junction of the Pyrddin, the Neath enters Glamorganshire and runs firsts, and then w. About 2m. above the union of these streams near a bridge called 'Pont rhyd y Cnau or Nutford Bridge, to which we descend by declivities, upon the n. bank of the Neath river is a remark- alfle rock, which seems to have separated from the contiguous mountain. It is call¬ ed Drugarn, Derwyddgarn, or the Druid’s rock. This, and several other romantic dells in the vale of Yslradgynlais has never been explored by travellers. Penderin . or Pen y Daren, is a parish town in an isolated situation upon the very summit of a rock, high and exposed, about 2m. e. of Pont neath Faughan. At the w. end of the church is a clumsy tower, with 2 bells. Hirwaun Wrgan, where the battle was fought between Justin ap Gwrgan and Rhys ap Tudor ; in which the latter was defeat¬ ed, is situated within this parish. Almost the-whole district of Penderin, bears me¬ morials of this conflict. Bodwigad, ancient¬ ly B6d waun y gad, the mansion of the field of battle ; a valley also which runs across the parish is called Cadlan ; and is studded with carneddau. One is 12 or 14 yards round, having a foss or ditch about it, the other is above 30 yards in circum¬ ference, and 9 feet high, there are also at least 40 or 50 smaller heaps of stones in the fields adjoining the hill; “ but,” says the historian of Breconshire, “ let the tra¬ veller be cautious how he decides, for he who is not very profoundly versed in an¬ tiquarian lore, and, of course, armed with infallibility, may mistake an old sheep- fold or the site of a camp, and the agger formed by thd industry of a farmer in clearing his ground, for a funeral barrow." The value of lands in this neighbourhood have been considerably inhanced by the population brought by the Hirwaun manu¬ factory. A furnace was constructed in 1758 by Maybery and Wilkins, for smelt¬ ing iron ore with charcoal, afterwards with mineral coal. The forges and rolling-mill have been erected by the present proprie¬ tors mess. Bouzer, Overton, and Oliver, who have also added various improve¬ ments ; as an additional furnace, a power¬ ful steam-engine, and fineries, capable of manufacturing 100 tons of bar-iron or more per week. The iron is conveyed upon rail-roads to the head of the Neath canal, thence in barges to Neath, and there ship¬ ped. The quantity of materials necessary to make 1 ton of pig-iron, are 3 tons of coal, 3 tons of iron ore, and 15 cwt. of lime-stone. About 31 cwt of pig-iron will produce 1 ton of finished bars, and about 3 tons of coals will be consumed in the process. A new turnpike road has been made through the vale of Aberdar to unite the Neath and Cardiffroad. Another branch is intended to join the road from Brecon to Merthyr, about 8m. from the formerplace; this will form a communication between Swansea and Brecon, nearly 7m. shorter than through Merthyr. To Neath the road called the towing- path beside the canal affords a ' r ery agree¬ able walk, enlivened by a change of fields, woods, and rising hills. Through this glen likewise runs the river Nedd, which in rainy seasons is a furious torrent. At the distance of 6m. the canal is conducted a- cross the river by an aqueduct of 5 arches. In this space it falls down 14 locks. Pro¬ ceeding 2m. the glen suddenly narrows, so as to leave room only for the canal, the river, and the road. The glen presently opening displays a fine view towards Neath. To Neath, 17 miles. — Brecon, 20 miles. — Merthyr Tydfil, by way of Aberdare, 13 miles. From Corwen, 6 miles, BIngley. -Cerig y Druiddian, miles, Hutton. PONT Y GLYN, (the bridge of the pre¬ cipice), is situated on the road from Cor¬ wen to Cerig y Druidian. Mr. Bingley, who visited this place from Corwen, speaks very highly of the general beauty of the waIk. especially where the vale of Edehr- 1089 PONT Y GLYN, tu'on appears, bounded by the Jerwyn mountains; and of this bridge and it’s scenery remarks as follows. “ The woody glen, at the head of which stands Pont y Glyn, with it’s prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, after a while presented itself, and then immedi¬ ately on a sudden turn of tire road, ap¬ peared the bridge thrown over the chasm. Beneath it was the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense masses and fragments of rock, the stream foamed with the most violent impetuosity. The transition to this romantic scene was so momentary, as to seem almost the ef¬ fect of magic. The cataract is not very lofty, but from it’s being directly under the bridge, where the foam was seen dash¬ ing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the pendant foliage from each side, a scene was formed altogether finely picturesque and elegant. The bridge rests upon two nearly perpendicular rocks, and appeared to be 30 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view thence down the hollow was grand and tremendous.” Under the bridge grows the Fumaria cla- viculata. Back to Corwen, 6 miles, Bingley. To Bala, 12 miles, Hutton. From Hafod, 4 miles, Malkin; Warner’s 1st and 2d walks; Lipscomb. —— Aberystwith, 12 miles, Skrine ; Aikin ; Evans; Barber. — Strata Florida, 10 miles, Wyndham. PONT Y MONACH, or Pont ar Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the Ha- fod-Arms Inn, Caerdiganshire, is a single arch between 20 and 30 feet in the chord, thrown over another arch of less than 20 feet, under it, which spans a dark and tre¬ mendous chasm. The lower arch is un¬ derstood to have been thrown across by the monks of Ystrad Fflur or Strata Florida Ab¬ bey, about the year 1087, but as that abbey was not founded till 1164, this date must be erroneous. The country people, think¬ ing so bold an effort above the reach of their spiritual fathers, ascribed it to his majesty the Devil. The derivation of the name of Devil's bridge according to mr. Hutton, is as follows, “An old woman, in search of her strayed cow, saw her on the opposite side of the cleft rock, and in this lamentable case the Devil appeared, sym- 36 PONT Y MONACII. 1090 pathized with her deeply, and offered ta accommodate her with a bridge over the chasm, if she would suffer him to take the first who passed it. Reflecting that as she must be ruined in one case, she could but be ruined in the other, she desperately complied. A bridge instantly arose. What a situation ! Her cow was dear to her and valuable, but self-preservation was an im¬ pulse superior to every other considera¬ tion. Fortunately, however, she bad a dog, and in her pocket a piece of bread. A glorious thought occurred of saving her¬ self and cow by the sacrifice of the cur. She took the piece of bread from her pock¬ et and threw it on the other side. Her dog darted over the bridge to seize it. Satan looked peevishly askance- galled at the thought of being bit by an old woman, hung his tail and walked of.” It must be said that mr. Satan behaved very honour¬ ably in this case, for he kept his word, which is more than men always do. It has been conjectured that this bridge has derived it’s name from what by some it may be called “ A devil of a bridge.” Mr. Meyrick appears displeased with mr. Hutton’s account of the old woman and her cow, declaring it to be the English who have stigmatized the bridge as be¬ longing to the Devil, and that our Birm¬ ingham traveller has coined the tale of the old woman and given it as a welsh tradi¬ tion. The present bridge was built in 1753. at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left standing. When mr. Hutton of Birmingham visited this place in the year 1787, he descended the bank and entered upon the under bridge, about 6 feet from the upper. A first descent may be made to the r. after passing the bridge from the inn, to the bottom of the aperture, through which the Mynach drives it’s furious passage. The depth from the present bridge to the bed of the river is 114 feet. On regaining the road the second descent lies at the dis¬ tance of a few yards on the other side of the bridge, where may be viewed the 4 concatenated lulls from the point of a rock in front. This truly acherontic stream which forces a pas age through masses of opposing rocks, tearing deep cavities for depositing the awful blackness of it’s un¬ fathomable waters, and thickening the misty gloom of a recess impervious to sun¬ shine, is equalled only by the fall of Narni. 1091 PONT Y MONACH. 1092 The first fall takes place about 40 yards s- executed. The four cascades taken thus w. of the bridge, where the Tiver is much in detail impress the mind more strongly confined by the rocks. It is carried about than before with the gigantic measure- 6 feet over the ridge, and projected into ment of their proportions, because here a bason at the depth of 18 feet. 'It’s next the unfathomed pools between each is ob- leap is 60 feet, where it rages engulphcd vious to the eye. The second fall of 60 beneath protruding cr3gs and pendant fol- feet is extremely grand. From a bow-win- iage. The third fall is diminished to 20. dow of the principal room at the Hafod- when it encounters rocks of prodigious Arms, the scene is inexpressibly fine. All size, through which it struggles to the the principal features of the junction of the edge of the largest cataract, and descends Rhydiol and Mynach may be seen at one down a precipice of 110 feet. From this view, and the cataracts of the former are spot, with the assistance of a guide, from in front. A descent to the falls of the the contiguous inn of Hafod-arms, may be Mynach may be made by winding behind found the Fall of the Rlujdiol, the approach the house almost as far as a spot called to which is difficult, and entirely imprac- Llyn Fate’s Cave, a traditional personage ticable during heavy rains. This is gener- who is said to have followed the vocation ally considered the finest part of this seen- of robbing, and to have lodged here. The ery. The bason into which this cataract Hafod-arms is a posting house, falls is agitated like a sea, by the violence From the Hafod-arms mr. Lipscomb of the shock ; the rocks which lie across made an excursion to Plinlimmon. The the channel are enormous; the hue of the essential parts of his narrative are contain- waters is dark ; the hills aspire to the ed in the following description. Having clouds; and the foam and roar of the tor- ascended from the summit of the hills op- rent adds to the gloom profound. Oppo- posite Pont y Monach, passed to a higher site to this stupendous object, placed up- point, entered upon a road enclosed bo¬ on a precipice of forests, at the height of tween two hedges. Passed Spy lit ij C'eti upwards of 150 yards, stands the llafod- facn, where the church seemed to be with- arms inn. From the ordinary station it is out bells, a large unhewn stone, about 7 seen with considerable effect, in four sep- feet high stood on the n. side of the yard, arate cascades. The perpendicular descent Ascended the side of the mountains, with of this cataract is not less than 210 feet, here and there a farm or cottage. The “ I have seen,” says mr. Barber, “ water- Rhydiol winds on the 1. among boggy falls more picturesquely grand than the cat- ground. Crossed the Caslell river, which aract of the Mynach or monk’s river, but unites with the Rhydiol below. Here saw none more awfully so, not even excepting a cottage entirety formed of turf, the door thecclebratcd falls of Lowdore, and Scale- was of wicker-work. It appeared the corn- force, in Cumberland.” The cascades up- mon habitation of the peasant’s family, in- on the two rivers are not within sight of eluding his ducks, dogs, and fowls. As- each other; nor is Pont y Monach seen cending the steep side of another moun- from the falls of the Mynach. After re- tain, came to the banks of the river Duliw, passing Pont y Monach, a fourth de- which runs in a contrary direction to the scent is at the side of the Mynach falls, Rhydiol, and separates the counties of to the Robber’s Cave, at the jet of the low- Caerdigan from that of Montgomery. This est fall. There is nothing extraordinary spot, tho’ elevated high above the tops of in the cave, but an uncommon tradition the neighbouring mountains, is called the attaches to it’s history. About the middle loot of Plinlimmon. Mr. Lipscomb ex- of the 15th century, it was inhabited by 2 pected to have here found a guide at a men and a woman known by the epithet cottage near this stream, but he found only 4 ‘ Plant Matt,” or Matthew’s children. The 5 children at home, not one of which could father kept a public house at Tregarron. speak English. Contemplating therefore These persons were notorious robbers, the danger of passing this boggy mountain The entrance to the cave admitting but without a guide he turned his steps back one at a time, they were able to defend it to the Hafod-arms. After proceeding a- against hundreds. Here they lived several bout a mile he met ashepherd, with whom years, but at length being found guilty of he bargained to attend him to the summit, committing murder, they were taken and In less than an hour they arrived at the 1 003 PONT Y basis of the cone which forms the cap of Plinlimmon, noticing by the way the birth¬ places of the Severn, the Wye, and Rhy- diol. The surface of the lower part of the mountain is covered with a mossy turf, and heath, broken by tremendous bogs, but he reached a district overspread with stones, which rendered the ascent difficult. The summit was however soon attained, but it was invelloped in an impenetrable thick fog. A rude pyramid of loose stones has been formed at the f.. end of the peak. Our traveller, therefore returned with the shep¬ herd to his hut, which presented a melan¬ choly specimen of poverty, dirtiness, and indolence. There appeared not one single comfort, scarcely a pane of glass in a small window, not a chair to sit upon. Even the fire of turf produced almost suffocation. And yet this man had a hundred sheep upon the mountains, and paid no rent. Mr. Arthur Aikin having examined the scenery around this bridge, walked along the cliffs overhanging the deep glen which receives the mingled waters of the Rhydiol and Mynach, the luxuriant woods of which almost concealed the numerous rapids and falls occasioned by the ruggedness of it’s rocky bottom. “ Midway down the glen,” says he, “we saw several kites skirting, with an easy flight, the sides of the thick¬ ets in search of prey, or floating along the windings of the vale, After a troublesome and rather hazardous walk, forcing our way among the trees and across two or three headlong little streams, wc arrived at a rocky bank a few feet above the river, commanding a fine view of the junction of the Rhydiol and Mynach, which seems to vie with each other in the turbulence of their waters, and the frequency of their cascades. Immediately above the union of the two torrents rises a perpendicular rock, on the crags of which we saw several kites perched; the summit of the rock is crowned with wood equal in luxuriance to that which clothes the lolly sides of the glen. As we returned up the rock, we saw several nests of the Formica Hercu- lanea, the largest species of ants that are natives of Britain ; these nests are compos¬ ed of small ends of twigs, forming a heap, a yard or two across, and from one to two feet high; the insects themselves exceed in size 3 of the ordinary black kind, and arc possessed of uncommon strength; their favourite situation is a wood, in a MONACH. 1094 light and rocky soil. The Rhydiol being reinforced by the waters of the Mynach, continues it’s course for ^m. when it re¬ ceives a small stream falling down from the s-w. and shortly after another in the same direction, tho’ a little larger. It con¬ tinues it’s course down the vale till it re¬ ceives the impetuous Fried from the s.; and about 160 yards beyond, another Irom the opposite side. It afterwards meanders for‘2m. further, and then receives another stream from the n. and 2m. beyond another comes into it, which rises near Pcnrhyn, and is about 3m. in extent. A mile distant it receives another in the same direction. About 2m. further, just where it forms a right angle, a stream runs from one part of it and falls into it again, forming the hypothenuse of this right angle. A house, situated upon this brook is called JSantci- ris; near which upon the opposite side of the river is the old palace of the welsh princes called Plas Crug, from the heathy mound upon which it stands. It has been called also the palace of Rheidol. The river separates before it approaches Aber- ystvvith, forming an island somewhat less than 2m. in circumference, called Y Morfa, or the Marsh, which during the winter is entirely overflowed. The road to Hafod lies upon tiic steep bank of the Mynach, commanding a fine view of the glen, audit’s romantic bridge. Then ascending the Cwmyslivith hill, from it’s summit is an interrupted view of the whole range of N. Walcan mountains, stretching from the english counties to the great bay of Cardigan. A parting view of the Mynach’s glen may now be taken, and a descent made to the vale of Ystwith, when some stone-walls and plantations announce the approach to Hafod. Pass a common gate with an ordinary cottage lodge, by degrees a scene of sylvan beauty opens in the descent, which appears, after traversing a barren mountain, the effect of enchantment. Both sides of the mountains which bound the chrystalline Ystwith are covered from top to bottom with planta¬ tions of luxuriant oaks, intermixed with birch and ash. Passing through some ara¬ ble land a handsome park gate with a lodge ushers the visitor to a view' of the church, proudly elevated among trees on the r. A thick wood is now entered, pro¬ ducing all the obscurity of sylvan shades. Far below rolls the Ystwith; the scene be- 1095 PONT Y MONACII. 1096 gins to open ; and a turn to the r. leads to a sight of the mansion, accompanied with unrivalled appendages of beauty. Tickets for visiting the grounds at Hafod are grant¬ ed at the inn at Pont y Monach. To Aberystwith rnr. Malkin turned off to the r. from the great road, and after winding down one of the vast dingles, in¬ to the vale of Rhydiol, a narrow foot bridge conveyed him across the river, just below a cascade. After a varied and in¬ teresting walk, a bold fall of the river of considerable height occurs, to which an adjoining mill gives additional character. After passing near Fronfailh-hause, the seat of sir Thomas Bonsai, is the village of Llan Padern, once a bishop’s see, founded by St. Padern the great. In the time of Girald there was still an abbey, the existence of which may still be traced in the form and architecture of the present parish church, which retains many indications of great an- tiquity. It is large, and built as a cross, with a nave, and chancel, in the oldest gothic style. Llan Padern, then a city, was destroyed by the Danes in the year 987, in the reign of Meredydd ap Owen. The turnpike-road to Aberystwith lies over a ridge of hills, exhibiting a gen¬ eral view of the vale. Except the village of Eshjnatd, there is little appearance of an inhabited country. About 3m. from Aberystwith appears a fine sea view, in¬ cluding the mountain of Cader Idris, and the abrupt summits of the Merionethshire hills. A bridge of 4 arches is seen over the Rhydiol, at about a mile from it’s in¬ flux into the sea, and not far from it is Plas grug, [see col. 46.] Upon the nearer side of the river is Llanbadern Fawr, with it’s ancient church, formerly a cathedral. Mr. Warner, on his second walk, quitted the turnpike-road, and descended a rugged and abrupt hill to the r. about |m. from Pont y Monach, taking the bridle road to Aberystwith, which follows the banks of the beautiful river Rhydiol for several miles. Mr. Wyndham, in pursuing his route to Machynlleth, passed from Pont y Monach to Llanbadern Fawr, former¬ ly one of the largest bishopricks in Wales. The supposed sepulchre of Taliesin, which stood near the highway, about 4m. from Aberystwith, he found broken and the stones made into gate-posts. To Machynlleth, mr. Warner engag¬ ed a guide, and pursuing a bridle road to the 1. descended to a hamlet called Punt ar wyd, or Wide-bridge, over the river Rhydiol. At the distance of 10m. from Ponty Monach, he passed the foot ofPlin- limmon, by the side of two large lead mines and acoppermine. After climbing a steep hill, the head of Cader Idris and the sum¬ mit of Snowdon become visible, with their thousand subject hills. Afterwards, abog- gy bottom continued within 3m. of Macli- ynllaeth, when a rugged carriage road lead to the town. To Llanidloes cross the Pont y Mo¬ nach and for some time follow the coyijse of the Rhydiol on the 1. Pass through the village of Yspytly C” enfyn, a chapel of ease to Llanhadarn y creuddyn uchuu, and a per¬ petual curacy in the gift of the landhold¬ ers. The church consists simply of a nave. There is a monument of black marble to the memory of Thomas Hughes, of Tyn y l.lywn. In the yard are 4 large stones, forming the segment of a circle. The larg¬ est measures 11 feet above ground, 5 feet 6 inches broad, and about ‘2 feet thick. Two of the others form gate posts. These are probably part of a druidic circle, the rest of which were broken to form this Christian edifice. The name Ysputty was given in consequence of being one of the ancient hospitia of the monks of Strata Florida Abbey; and Cen faen, i.e. stone ridge may allude to these ancient pillars. Near the 3d mile pass a house called Pen rhino goclt. The road then winds into Cwnt Ergir, crossing the Castell river at it’s en¬ trance, for nearly 4m. While in this neighbourhood, the curious traveller should make an excursion to Punt Herwid, at the confluence of the rivers Castel and Rhydiol, in a deep and narrow dingle, ly¬ ing a little to the l. of Yspytly V Enwyn, at the distance of about 4m. This dingle possesses more than the wildness of the scenery about Pont y Monach, without their rich and varied beauties. A rude bridge is thrown from rock to rock over a chasm, tho’ different in form, scarcely less repulsive in it’s aspect than that under Pont y Monach. Mr. Malkin says that mr. Charles Long, late of the Treasury, leaped over this bed of waters, and clear¬ ed it in perfect safety. Wind round the foot of Plinlimmon. In proceeding, hills beyond hills appear in endless succession. About the 7th mile enter Montgomery¬ shire, at Eisledfagung, over a small brook ; 1098 1097 . PONT Y MONAGTI. PONT Y POOL. then following the Wye, which rises not by the Hanbury family ; but it is chiefly far distant, proceed amida continuation of notedforthejapanmanufactoryealled Pont alpine scenery to Llangerig, where the vale of the VVye begins to expand. This place offers no accommodation to the traveller. The tower of the church is ancient, and it’s font is remarkable for it’s tracery and elegance. The rest of the interior presents a mixture of meanness and negligence; yet this is the mother of 7 other churches, and the parish is 20m. across. In advanc¬ ing to Llanidloes the soil is betterthan that which is remote. Native woods of oak and birch, fine fields of oats, rye, and bar¬ ley, occur. The vale leading to Lanidloes contains many charming spots. The flan¬ nel manufactory occupies, in this country an abundance of hands. Back to Aberystwith, 12 miles, Aikin. To Hafod, 4 miles. Barber; kv.ins; Skrine. — Aber)slwiih, 12 miles, Malkin; Warner’s 2d walk; Lipscomb — Machynllaeli, 30 miles, Warner. Over Plin- liinmon, 27 miles. — Llanbadern l r awr, 12 miles, Wyndham. — Llanidloes, 20 miles. From Newport, Mon. 11 miles, Wyndham. - Caerphilly Castle, 10 miles, Skrine. PONT Y POOL, near Usk, in Mon¬ mouthshire, is singularly placed on the edge of a steep cliff, overhanging the Afon Llwyd, or Torfaen river, which, tho’ usually but a rivulet, in times of heavy rains is swelled into a torrent. This stream originates in a lake at the foot of Mynydd Maen, runs by this place, passes under the canal and joins the river Usk in the valley beneath, and on the slope of a declivity, under impending hills. It is the principal mart for the inhabitants*)! the mountains, and it’s market on Saturday, is well sup¬ plied. Inn. The Crown and Anchor. The name of Pont y Pool is modern, sup¬ posed to be derived from a bridge thrown over a large pool, which supplies water for a forge, but is a corruption of Pont ap Howel, or Howell’s bridge. The place in it’s appearance is disordered and stragr gling, containing ,250 houses, and 1500 inhabitants. Several neat habitations and numerous shops, present an appearance of thriving prosperity. This place arose from the small village of Trefedden, the church of which parish is lm. distant from the town. This place owes it’s increase to the neighbouring iron workscstablishcd y Pool ware, the invention of Thomas All- good in the reign of Charles 2, and gra¬ dually perfected by his descendents. This trade is still carried on, but has declined exceedingly since the improvements of a Baskcrvillc and a Taylor, of Birmingham, who at one period nearly monopolized this branch of traffic. The family of Hanbury were formerly seated at Hanbury-hall, in Worcestershire. Capel Hanbury, a branch of this family, purchased an estate at Pont v Pool, who first founded the iron works. He possessed landed property in the parish of Kidderminster, Worcestershire, where lie and lamily resided. He died in 1704,' aged 79, and was buried in Kidderminster church. See a further account of this family in Coxe’s Monmouthshire, p. 236, kc., and 270, kc. The head of Pont y Pool Canal is lm. from the town, and 12 from Newport. It is the means of convey¬ ance for the goods manufactured at Pont y Pool, and the produce of the Blaenal'on iron-works, to Newport, whence they may he shipped in the Usk and exported to any ; part of the world. The Gray river furnish*! es it with a constant supply of water. The> parish Church of Pont y Pool, called Ire-i J'eclden , is situated upon an eminence in the viciuity ol the town; a neat gravel walk ascends to it through the planta¬ tions of Pont y Pool park, begun at the expense of mrs. Evans, daughter of the curate. The church consists of a square tower of stone, with white-washed battle¬ ments, a nave, a n. aisle, and a chancel, separated by a pointed arch. At the e. ex¬ tremity of the nave is a small chapel the cemetery of the Hanburies. Mr, Pratt in his .“Gleanings through Wales,” has mentioned Merionethshire, and the country about Pont y Pool, as re¬ plete with superabundant and varied beau¬ ty- Pont y Pool Park is pleasantly situated upon an eminence forming part of the bill called Mod , between the town and Tre- fethin church. This spot is charmingly, diversified. The vv. boundary is the wild torrent of Afon Lwyd, attended with ro¬ mantic scenery, over which towers the Mynydd Maen. A narrow lawn extends from Pont y Pool to the house, skirted by plantations. On the opposite side the grounds rise in irregular acclivities, cov- 1099 PONT Y POOL. noo crcd with hanging groves, and beyond, is a succession of swelling eminences. [From a summer-house, upon an emi¬ nence near the s. extremity of the chain of hills extending from the park to the Blorenge, is a gratifying and almost bound¬ less prospect.] The mansion was begun by major Hanbury towards the end of the 17th century, and finished by his son Ca- pel. The present proprietor, Capel Han¬ bury Leigh, esq. has made some judicious and considerable alterations. Many por¬ traits are here of the Hanbury family, i. e. 3 of major Hanbury, at different periods ; his 2d wife and son Capel, 2 of the lion, mrs. Hanbury, eldest daughter of lord vis¬ count Tracey, and wile of Capel; a | in crayons of the late John Hanbury, esq , a- nother of his wife, since mrs. Stoughton ; 2 of sir Charles Hanbury Williams. A fine whole length of sir John Hanbury, knt. of Kilmarsh, Northamptonshire. An old man in a blue night cap is the portrait of mr. Williams, of Caerleon, the friend and benefactor of major Hanbury. In the din¬ ing-room, Sarah dutchess of Marlborough, sitting with her daughter Anne; Blenheim house appears in the back ground. John duke of Marlborough, sitting, with a truncheon in his hand ; Frederick 2, king of Prussia ; earl of Stafford, by Vandyke ; sir Robert Walpole; and Thomas Winning- ton, esq. of Stanford-court- There are also 2charming pictures by Morillo, represent¬ ing 2 groups of boys ; an Esculapius, writ¬ ing, by Vandyke, and a man in armour, brought by mrs. Leigh from Gnoll castle. Three miles s-w. from Ponty Pool,near two small lakes called reservoirs, as sup¬ plying the canal with water, rises the im¬ mense mountain Mynydd Muen, abound¬ ing in steep and abrupt acclivities. At the s-w. extremity rises an eminence railed Tivyu Barium, vulgarly Tam Balam, of an oval shape, and (jin. an circumference at it’s base. Upon it's flat summit is an en¬ trenchment of an elliptical form, 190 yds. in length, and in the widest part 70 in breadth. At the e. end of which is a cir-> cular tumulus, 30 feet high, surrounded by a deep foss. An adjacent dingle is call¬ ed Cwm C.irn. Mr. Wm. Owen says that it was a spot for holding the bardic meet¬ ing called Eisteddfod. The prospect from it would amply repay the toil in the as¬ cent. [see col. 995.] The indefatigable mr. Coxe, who left no district in Monmouthshire unexplored, penetrated into the remoter parts of the vallies of the Ebwy and Sony. Under this description may be included the mountain¬ ous region watered by the Afon Llwyd, Ebwy, Sorwy, and Rumney, called the wilds of Monmouthshire, a district seldom visited except for the purpose of growse shooting. Impressed with the general pre¬ judice, mr. Coxe had neglected this dis¬ trict even to his 3d tour. But when from the top of Twyn Barium he had seen the populous district of Cross pen Main, and the vales of Ebwy and Sorwy, his curiosi¬ ty w'as excited. He w'as moreover assured by a friend that in these wilds he would find some Swiss scenes; and he was not disappointed. In his first excur¬ sion he rode along the side of the canal to Pont Newynydd; quitted the rail-road to Blaenafon and passed up a steep and paved ascent, which led through thick coppice woods to the moors. Continue along the level surface of the summit, over a boggy district. At the extremity of this moor, approach the descentleading to Cicm Tilery. In this descent is presented a district well- peopled, richly wooded, and highly cul¬ tivated. The numerous vallies below a- bounded with romantic scenery. Pass several rills, bubbling from the sides of the hill, and swelling the Tilery. Beneath, at a distance, bursts the Little Ebwy, through a deep, narrow, and woody glen, visible only by it’s foam glistening through the thick foliage. Crossing this torrent over a stone bridge at the bottom of the descent, pass along a narrow and rugged path, winding round the precipitous sides of the Brecon mountain, which are thickly cloth¬ ed with underwood, and occasionally tuft¬ ed with hanging groves of oak, beech, ash, and alder; the wild raspberry twining in the thickets, and the ground overspread with the wood strawberry. This valley is usually called Ebwyfach, but by the natives the Valley of the Church. It is bounded on the e. by a ridge called Milfre-hill, which separates it from the parishes of Llanfoist and Trefethin, and on the w. by the Brecon mountain, which divides it from the valley of Ebwy Four. Towards the extremity of the vale, cross the Ebwy vach, over another stone-bridge, to the Church, situated in the midst of fields, up¬ on a gentle rise overhanging the torrent. In this track pass the Istvvyth, a lively rilj 1102 - HOI PONT 1 which descends from a wooded dingle, and in a few paces falls into the Ebwy fach. This stream gives the name of Aber- ystwith to the scattered village, which is likewise called Blaenau gwent. The church is a handsome building in th^ pointed or norman style, with a square tower. The inside consists of a nave and n. aisle, sep¬ arated by five arches. As there is no chan¬ cel, the communion table is placed in a small recess, at the extremity of the nave, over it is a whimsical group, carved in wood, and painted ; two angels are repre¬ sented, sounding brazen trumpets, and be¬ tween them a clergyman in his robes, holding an enormous trumpet in his hand. The service is performed in welsh, theen- glish language being little understood. The church-yard contain 11 old yews ; the largest is 2+ feet in circumference, the smallest 11|. The natives wear flannel shirts, some white and others red. In as¬ cending the n. extremity of this delightful vale, gradually advance into a wild, dreary, and almost uninhabted district, among bleak hills and barren moors. From the top appears Nant y glo. In descending cross a small stream, which forces it’s way through a deep channel worn in the rocks, and falls into Ebwy fach. Mr. Hertford, son of one of the proprietors of the works at Nant y glo, is settled with his family in this sequestered spot. These works belong to Hill, Hertford, ar.d Co., and are held under a long lease from the owners of Blaenafon works ; they were finished at a vast expense in 1793, and after being wrought a year, were discontinued on ac¬ count of a dispute among the proprietors. They consist of 2 furnaces, several forges, a steam engine, and the necessary build¬ ings and machinery for smelting and forg¬ ing iron ore. Cross an elevated tract of moor, and pass round the n. extremity of amountain, underatumulus which crowns it’s summit, called the Beacon. The Bea¬ con mountain, sometimes called the Blaenau hill, is a narrow and elevated ridge, which stretches between the two branches of the Ebwy, and terminates near the point of their junction. The road already traversed from Cwm Tilery to Nant y glo, runs along the e. side of the ridge of Blaenau hill, and that now entered upon near the works of Hertford, Partridge, and Co. passes under it's w. side, through Cum Ebwy fawr. “ In a general description,” *ay s mr. Coxe, r pool. “ this vale would appear similar to that of the Little Ebwy ; it is bounded by ranges of hills feathered with trees, and traversed by a mountain torrent. Yet nature always presents a different aspect, and from rocks, woods, and waters, forms endless combi¬ nations, which, though similar in descrip¬ tion, are varied in appearance. The scene¬ ry here is wilder and more romantic, the plain narrower, the acclivities steeper, the torrent more rapid and confined, the woods more gloomy and impervious; the streams pour thro’ the glens, and rush down the hills in greater abundance, and there are (ewer habitations. Art has also introduced a striking difference : in the other vale, the path continually ascending and de¬ scending, ran along the rugged sides of the Brecon mountain; here the road is a railway, carried over an artificial terrace, in a waving line, near theedgeofthe banks overhanging the torrent. Continue a- long the road 5m. passing on the 1.2 beau¬ tiful cwms opening upon the w. side of Blaenau-hill. watered by rills which fall into Ebwy fawr. The first is called Cwm Mytlife the other Cwm beeg. A neat farm¬ house called Aberbeeg stands in a romantic position at the extremity of the glen, where the foaming torrent rushes from Cwm beeg into the Ebwy fawr. A little beyond the vale terminates, and the two branches of the Ebwy unite. The scenery at the junc¬ tion is most delightful; upon one side the great Ebwy rushes through the vale just traversed; on the other the Ebwy fach, foaming through a hollow and narrow glen, emerges from a thick wood; these 2 branches dash round the s. extremity of the Brecon mountain, and unite at it’s foot. Two stone bridges are thrown over the Little Ebwy, within a few paces of each other; one supports the rail-road; the other was the common pass before it’s con¬ struction. Cross the latter, near which stands a stone cottage with a group of trees overhanging it’s roof, and pass through a grove of alders to another bridge over the Great Ebwy, whence a pa:h leads up the woody side of the mountain which bounds the valley. I remained, says mr. Coxe, for a considerable time leaning on the para¬ pet of the bridge, absorbed in contempla¬ tion of the picturesque objects around me; objects which recalled to my recollection the mildercastof mountain scenery, vs hich I formerly so much admired in the Alps 1103 P.0 NT ^ of Switzerland, and drew a tear of sym¬ pathy and regret for the fate of that oiice happy and delightful country.” Mount¬ ing a steep ascent to Llanhiddel, a 1 narrow! plain of rich meadows, divided into 1 small farm's, stretches upon each side of the ra¬ pid Ebu'y, bounded by abrupt and wooded declivities. The Church of Lldnhhldcl is situated upon the summit. It is a small, but ancient building of the simplest! con¬ struction, without a tower or belfry. The yard is planted with P2 yew-trees. Upon the n- w. side of the church, are the remains of a fortified post, consisting of a small tu¬ mulus and circular entrenchment; within the latter are vestiges of subterraneous walls, faced with hewn stone, not less than 9 feet thick; at a little distance to the w. is a higher mound or barrow. These re¬ mains are called Castcll Taliunnn, probably a corruption of Castram Italorum. After crossing a common descend to Pont y Pool over the ridge Ccfny Crib, down a craggy path. In another Excursion mr. Coxe with the civil and intelligent landlord of the Red-lion as a guide, rode across the canal, and ascended by the side of a torrent along a rail road, leading to some iron works be¬ longing to mr. Leigh, situated in the midst of a wood, reached a small lake which forms the reservoir of the canal, from which the torrent issues. This lake is 2m. in circumference, and stretches along the foot of the n-e. extremity of Mynydd maen. A road broad enough for carriages runs a- long a narrow and level defile, between Mynydd maen and Cefn y Crib, amid wild and romantic scenery enlivened by ripling streams. Two miles from the en¬ trance into the defile, the bleak mountain of Mynydd maen trends to the s. succeed¬ ed by a range of lower, but more fertile and wooded hills, broken by narrow din¬ gles. In this sequestered route a single cot¬ tage only occurred until ascending a gentle Tise, reach a second reservoir, which sup¬ plies the Crumlin branch of the canal. Descending from the brow of this elevated ground, cross a torrent, and follow the course of the stream, which issues from the reservoir, down a gentle declivity, through fields to Crumlin-bridge where the 2d branch of the canal commences. From this place mr. Coxe continued along the side of the canal to Kisca. The road is a towing-path. On the 1. the canal winds : pool. lioi at the foot of overhanging rocks, fringed with wood; the Ebwy is seen below frbm an elevation of 40 or 50 feet. At A’et Midge. large quantities of coal are brought down a rail road, from the mines of Mynydd yst- diy'n, and conveyed by canal to Newport. Pass on the 1. several cvvms, ftqSid torrents rushing down their hollowsone of these' called Cam, which descends from Mynydd maen, gives the name of Abercarn to the place where the 'principal ironworks are situated. Riscd is a village Situated at the extremity of the vale, under the precipit¬ ous crags of Tzvyn Barham. Mr. Coxe here dismissed his guide and continued his journey hence to Careau, near Newport, where he slept. Early next morning in company with his friend Evans, he return¬ ed to Risca, Where they breakfasted, and then sallied out to explore the Valley of the Sorwy. Pass along the vale and cross the Ebwy near the influx of the Sorwy, over Pont y Cymmer. Soon after ascend the side of the hill, which bounds the vale and continue along an elevated ridge, through thickets,' corn fields, and mea¬ dows, sprinkled with hamlets, watered by numerous torrents, and overlooking the Sorwy. The features of this vale are more wild and romantic than those of the Ebwy; it is narrower and deeper. Pass under Caer- llulyri, or the high place of the encamp¬ ment, descend to the banks of the Sorwy, cross over a stone bridge, and up a steep road to Penllibyn, whence is a pleasing view of the vale. Penlkvyn-hou.se, the an¬ cient mansion of a collateral branch of the Morgan family, is delightfully situated up¬ on a brow of the eminence overhanging the Sorwy. The last male of this line was Henry Morgan, who died without issue in 1757. His name is still mentioned with endearment. His sister Florence convey¬ ed the estate to her husband John Jones, esq. of Llanarth , and it now belongs to their grandson. The mansion is at present a farm-house, with few traces of its former occupants. Some tall sycamores which shade this old mansion seem coeval with the building. From Penllwyn walk across some pleasant meadows to Bydwellty-place, a seat belonging that collateral branch of the Morgan family which was settled at Caerleon. It now belongs to Miss Mor¬ gan. This also is converted into a farm¬ house, containing some pointed arches and door-ways. Bacon seems almost the 1105 PONT Y POOL. 1106 only kind of flesh-meat used in this dis¬ trict; this, with vegetables, and the pro- ductions of the dairy, forms their diet. Thin oat-cakcs are their common bread. Their favourite liquor is cwrvy, dignified by classic writers with the name ccrcvi- tia, which in common language is new ale in a turbid state, unclarified by fermen¬ tation. “ To persons accustomed to clear and old malt liquor,” says mr. Coxe, “ this beverage is extremely forbidding to the sight, and nauseous to the taste; but 1 had so much of the blood of the ancient britons in my veins, that I soon became accus¬ tomed to their cwrw, and preferred it to our saxon beer.” From Bydwellty- place, mr. Coxe and his companion walked through the fields, till they remounted their horses, and continued along a straight broad road, which was in many parts pitch- ed or paved with large flag stones, exhib¬ iting vestages of an ancient causeway ; which leads along the level summit of the mountain to Rydtvel/ly church, situated up¬ on an eminence overlooking a fruitful ex¬ panse of hill and dale, in the counties of Monmouth, Glamorgan, and Brecon ; com¬ prehending the rich vale of Carno; the districts fertilized by the Rumney; the romantic vallies of the Ebwy and Sorwy; and the whole of the beautiful and undu¬ lating country visited in these excursions. The church is an ancient structure in the pointed style ; the square embattled tow¬ er is built with brown rubble, and coigned with hewn stone. The inside consists of a nave, a »v. aisle, and chancel. A lane winds down the steep sides of a rugged declivity to the banks of the Sorwy, where a bold stone bridge of a single arch is thrown over it’s rocky channel. The view from the bridge is peculiarly wild. Mount the opposite eminence and pass through the district of Cross pen main. In the midst of the hamlet is a small but neat pub¬ lic-house. About £m. further the road di¬ vides, near the brow of the eminence over¬ looking the Ebwy ; one on the 1. leads by Newbridge to Risca; that on the r. down a steep road, covered with loose stones, to¬ wards Crumlin-bridge, including a pros¬ pect of the vale from Kewbridge to the junction of the 2 rivers. Mr. Coxe crossed Crumlin-bridge and continued to Pont y Pool, along the same defile which he had before traversed. From Pont y Pool to Abergavenny the road crosses the Afon Lhvyd, over Pont y moel, at the extremity of mr. Leigh’s park, and at the distance of lm. enter the high¬ road leading from Newport to Abergaven¬ ny. The Brecon canal here passes in a tunnei 220 yards long. A little beyond is the church of Llan/ihangel Pont y Moel, and a farm called Great Monkwood, for¬ merly a religious house belonging to the abbey of Tintern. A little beyond the road divides ; one branch leads to Usk by Little Munkswootl farm and chapel, at the foot of wooded eminences ; the other turns to the n. and proceeds to Mamhilacl, a vil¬ lage with a chapel of ease to Llanover. The cemetery contains 12 yew trees. The road hence continues in a rectilinear di¬ rection, leaving the grounds of mr. Wad- dington, at Llanofcr, on the r. crosses the Usk at Llanellen, over a wooden bridge, and joins the high road from the New Pas¬ sage, Usk, and Monmouth, opposite Cold- brook-house, about lm. from Abergaven¬ ny. This road is skirted on the 1. by a chain of undulating hills, commencing with the rich eminence of Pont y Pool Park, mantled with wood, and interspers¬ ed with occasional fields, till they ap¬ proach the naked ridge of the lllorenge, Llanofcr-house, the seat of Benj. Wadding* ton, esq. stands upon a gentle rise, near the torrent Rhydy Mirth, which falls from the neighbouring hills, and ripples through the grounds in it’s way to the Usk. In front rich meadows sink into an oval vale, intersected by the Usk; beyond these rise hills and mountains, in a grand succession. The Blorenge, the Sugar Loaf, and the I.ittle and great Skyrid, are particularly conspicuous. The Church of Llanofer stands in a romantic position, upon the banks of the Usk, about ^m. from the house ; it is a handsome gothic edifice, consisting of a highly embattled tower of hewn stone, a nave, and a chancel, and by the care of mr. Waddington is kept in an extraordinary state of order and neatness. A William Pritchard lies here dignified as the descendent “ from the bodye of Cra- docke Vraich vras Earle of Hereford and Prince betweene Wye and Seaverne;” and a descendent of the great Cecil family, lies modestly unpedigreed. The latter named Walter was the last of this family who possessed Llanofer-house. It was sold in 1786 to mr. Sever of Bromyard, and af¬ terwards bought by mr. Waddington. 1107 PONT 1 A pleasant road runs from Llanofer church along the r. hank of the Usk, to the village of Llanellen. A wooden bridge is thrown across the river. In rainy weather the inundations here are considerable. At those times even the bridge is impassible. Mr. Coxe passed it, when the river was swollen to an expanse as broad as a lake, and as impetuous as the Rhine or the Da¬ nube issuing from the Swiss mountains. Next to the Sugar-loaf, mr. Coxe thought the principal feature of the variegated landscape, in the environs of Llanofer is the w. chain of hills which extend to Pont y Pool. At some distance they seem to form an uniform ridge, but they are sepa¬ rated by dingles, clothed with thickets and watered by torrents. TheBlorenge, (Blawr rheng, the hoary ridge) forms the x. ex¬ tremity of this chain. The hills which succeed this bleak mountain exhibit an undulating surface, thickly mantled with wood, forming a pleasing back ground, and resembling the hills in the lower re¬ gions of Switzerland. Mr. Coxe fortunate¬ ly was intimately acquainted with mr. Waddington, and had the advantage of mak¬ ing his friend’s house the central point for many excursions. To detail these would answer little to those who possess not this advantage. The editor takes the lib¬ erty, however, of mentioning that under the guidance of mr. Waddington, mr. Coxe was conducted to the summit of Coed y Prior or Priory Wood, a small eminence at the foot of the Blorenge. It formerly belonged to the priory of Abergavenny, and is now in the possession of mr. Svvin- nerton. About ^m. from Llar.ofcr-house they crossed Nant Organ, a rapid stream and ascended the 1. bank. Some recesses of pasture upon this margin convey a strik¬ ing resemblance of alpine scenes. This eminence is separated from the Blorenge, by a dingle watered by lively rills that de¬ scend into the Usk. Mr. Coxe made seve¬ ral other excursions into the district s-e. of Llanofer, between the highroad and the town of Usk, which is singularly wild. The hamlet of Goijtre, or Coedtref, in the midst of this region abounds with delight¬ ful recesses and pleasant glades dotted with white cottages. They are said to re¬ semble the wilds of America, insomuch that a gentleman, who passed great part of his life on the other side the Atlantic, chose a sequestered spot here, where he built a t' POOL. 1108 house, because it bore a striking resemb¬ lance to the scenes which were familiar to him in early life. The hamlet consists of scattered cottages. The church is with¬ out a tower, in the early pointed style. Some occasional causeways intersect this track, with narrow and stony bye-roads. The hilly district enclosed by the Usk and the Rumney, once formed a little princi¬ pality or lordship, called Glwysig. The do¬ mains of it’s prince or lord were not of sufficient consideration to tempt the ra¬ pacity of armies. The romans seem to have left this district to it’s ancient inhabi¬ tants, and to have encouraged it’s industry, by affording it a market. The saxons and normans observed nearly the same con¬ duct, either from necessity or choice; and the inhabitants of those masses of hills, now called Upper and Lower Blaenau Gwent, have preserved the customs and manners of ancient Britain, more unmin¬ gled than any other region of Cambria. Coldbrook-house is delightfully situated at the foot of the Little Skyrrid, in the midst of grounds beautifully diversified and rich¬ ly clothed with oak, beech, and elm. It has been the distinguished residence of 2 persons, equally memorable in their time; sir Richard Herbert, the intrepid soldier and flowerof chivalry, and sir Charles Han- bury Williams, the polished courtier, and the votary of wit and pleasure. The house was originally an irregular edifice, with a tower at each angle; the x. front, with an elegant doric portico, was constructed by sir Charles Hanbury Williams. It contains some family, and other portraits.—See an account of sir Charles, in Coxe’s Mon¬ mouthshire, p. 270. To Newport the pedestrian will find the towing path of the canal the nearest road. A considerable descent of ground has rendered many locks necessary. This ca¬ nal joins the Crumlin branch in the plain of Malpas and in junction reaches New¬ port under the name of the Monmouth¬ shire canal. From Ponty Pool to Mvrthyr Tydfil is crossed the vale of Sorwy, where is Bydwellty. The church of this village, ded¬ icated to St. Sannon, is singularly mean, but it exhibits a curious instance of the mixture of the ancient british mode of building with the succeeding pointed style. The church-yard is environed with ancient entrenchments. Descending the 1100 PONT Y POOL. vale, to the 1. are the coal-mines of Myn- yd,ly Sltvyn and the extensive iron-works of Abercarn. The latter consist of a foun- dery, a tilting and fuming-mill, an osmond forge, a wire-mill, a forge, with shingling and finishing rollers, and a rolling mill. The Monmouthshire canal passes through these works. To Usk, 7 miles, Wyndlum. — Caerleon, S miles, Skrine. From Llantrissant, 5 miles, Baiber. - Llandaff, 10 miles, Evans; Manby. .- Caerphilly, 7 miles, Wyndham. - Merthyr Tydfil, 11 miles, Skrine. - CaerdifF, 11 miles. PONT Y PRIDD, (Bridge of Beauty,) or New Bridge, the celebrated bridge of Glamorganshire, is an extraordinary piece of masonry, consisting of a single arch, thrown across the river Taff. The archi¬ tect and builder of this bridge was William Edwards, son of a farmer of the parish of Eglwysilan, born in 1719. Having a nat¬ ural genius for masonry, he was observed to excel in that art, and in 17+6, undertook to build a new bridge over the river Taff, consisting of 3 arches ; but owing to the uncommon rapidity of this river, when , swelled by long and heavy rains, the bridge was soon after it’s erection swept away. He had given ample security for it’s sta¬ bility for seven years, and he proceeded on his duty in erecting another with all pos¬ sible speed. The second bridge was of 1 arch; the span or chord 140 feet; it’s altitude 55 feet. The arch was finished but the parapets not erected, when the pressure of the ponderous work over the haunches caused the arch to spring up in the middle, and the key-stones were forced out. This was a severe blow, but the spirit of Ed¬ wards was not to be disconcerted. He en¬ gaged in the work a third time, and by means of 3 cylindrical holes through the work over the haunches reduced the weight. The second bridge fell in 1751; the third, which has stood ever since, was completed in 1755. The Rialto was long considered the largest arch in Europe, if not in the world. It’s chord was 98 feet; but the new bridge is 140 feet, and still stands pre-eminent among j tone bridges. See an ample account of the architect of this bridge in Malkin’s South Wales, vol. 1, p. 132. Yet the invention of iron bridges PONT Y PRIDD. 1110 eclipses every other. The iron bridge at Colebrook Dale, was the first of this kind formed in England, it’s span or chord is 100 feet 6 inches, that at Stourport is 150 feet, and one at Sunderland is 236 feet 8 inches. Two Waterfalls in this neighbour¬ hood deserve notice. They are thus de¬ scribed by mr. Barber, “ One occurs about £m. above the bridge. A delightful sylvan path on the bank of the river, under the beetling brow of Craig-yr-esk leads to it. The river is seen for a considerable dis¬ tance struggling through a region of rocks, which in some places rise in large masses above it’s surface, and in others appear through the transparency of the stream, shelving to a considerable depth ; wearing throughout the odd appearance of a vast assemblage of cubes, variously heaped, but with one face constantly horizontal: at length the river breaks over a compact strata; yet only in a fall of 8 or 10 feet, which is divided into several streams. The white foam of the river, and the light gray tint of the rocks, afford a strong contrast to the mixed verdure and dark shadows of it’s banks ; but on the whole the subject is rather to be noticed for it’s singularity' than for any leading points of picturesque beauty. The other cascade of the tributary river Rhaiadyr, seems more agreeably composed, which is at the distance of 2m. from the bridge. The dark rocks which occasion the fall; the surrounding crags ; the light and pendant foliage which adorns them, and the vigourous trees which e- mergefrom thebanks.areall disposed with the utmost symmetry, and form a highly pleasing picture, tho’ of inconsiderable dimensions.” The New Bridge is seen with great advantage from the front of this fall. Mr. Skrine proceeded down a winding vale, upon a beautiful terrace, above the banks of the Taff, till he reached the track which deviates to Caerphilly Castle. When mr. Barber and his companion visited this bridge they made an excursion, not only to the waterfalls, but towards Merthyr-Tydfil, in order rather to trace the beauties of the Taff, than to examine the considerable iron works in that neigh¬ bourhood. At one time, a towering hill, completely wooded, the shaggy summit of which was elevated to the clouds ; in suc¬ cession, naked recks perpendicularly des- 1111 , , PQNT Y PRIDD. 1112. cended to the water ; or through favoured is defended by .the steep escarpment of. hollows, stripes of green slanting mea- the elevated spot on which it stands, and dows mixed their verdure with the stream, the deep ravine through which flows the Advancing, the narrow val'ey was still lesse^ Taff; and on the s. and e. sides by further contracted, and the river, confined a deep excavation cut in the native rocks ; by the approaching basis of the moun- a ipode of defence peculiar to roman and tains, assumed the character of a torrent, British fortifications. The building appears Their road was on the margin of the river, irregular, approaching to a pentagonal while a canal, singularly abounding with shape. Some walls, intersecting each rocks, ran upon the other, to the Cyclopean other at right angles, form the advanced region of Merthyr Typfil, Theydidnot works without the trench. The whole enter the town, but remeasured their steps covered about an acre of ground. Beneath to Pont-y-pridd ; and, about 4m. below it, the ruins, almost buried, is a large circular bade adieu to the romantic course of the gothic room, about 30 feet in diameter, TafF, by deviating up a steep confine of it’s with 12 flat arches; the roof supported by valley towards the town and castle of an umbilic pillar, similar to the Chapter- Caerpkilly. house, at Margan. From this circumstance While at Pont y Pridd, mr. Manby oh- it has been supposed of norman origin.— serving that the Rontha was a large stream ( J. Evans. tho’tributary to the Taff,, was induced to Few scenes are more agreeable than the explore it. He reached a bridge of 2 arch- ride from Pont y Pridd to Cardiff. The es, the banks thickly shaded with wood, road lies along the shady bank of the rag- At the, distance of 2m. he found Berw ing Taff for 6 or 7m. The country is fine- Rhoncla, (the foam of the Ronda,) formed by ly diversified by the inequality of the a contraction of the river, which rushes, mountains, on each side of the torrent, through an.opening in the rock with great Two of them are richly wooded, and al- force, forming a cascade enveloped in most contiguous. Between these, under white foam. On his return to the Bridg- the small remains of Castle Cock, the vale water-arms, he crossed the river by a nar- of Glamorgan is entered, beneath the thick row wooden foot bridge. Leaving this pub- smoke and black columns of iron furnaces, lie house, he continued to follow the canal lime kilns, &c.—Wyndham. for about l^m. when he deviated to the The Duke’s Arms on this road, is a re- banksof the Taff, to examine the celebrated spectable inn. A curious canal keeps pace fall and salmon leap, called Rhaiadyr Riske with you all the way. The hills that close which is at the foot of a mountain seen in this narrow vale are lofty and precipi- from Pont y Pridd. Tho fall, broken by tate, but clothed with an almost exhaust- rocky projections is 15 feet in height, and less magnificence of wood. It is withdif- the scenery inchantingly beautiful. Re- ficulty that an admirer of mountain vallies, turning to the road the country abounds whose route requires him to turn on the 1. with mountain scenery, and the singular to Caerphilly Castle, can persuade himself effect of 16 locks, the canal aqueduct over to exchange this threatre of enchantment the river, and a mill upon a tributary for that rude and laborious path, there be-, brook, are features of considerable gratifi- ing nothing to afford him gratification ex¬ cation. Turning to the 1. ^t the quaker’s cept the sight of Encrglyn, the seat of John burying ground, and ascending the lofty Goodrich, esq. At Porto Bello where the eminence on the r. the rail-road leading to road turns to Caerphilly, the mountains ap- Merthyr Tydfil is reached. In proceeding pear to close on each side; that along the towards this new colony the valley be- side of which you journey is romantically comes sprinkled with numerous edifices, topped by a very picturesque castle in and in advancing the scene becomes very ruins, called Castell Cock, or red castle, actives and the ear is assailed by the strokes This venerable seat was long the residence of massive hammers and the roar of fur- of Ifor Bach, or Ifor Petil, who gallantly naces. headed the inhabitants of Glamorgan for Upon a lofty hill above the Taff, not far the purpose of forcing Fitzhamon and his from Merthyr Tydfil, near the road leading son-in-law Robert earl of Glocester, to re- from Cardiff to Brecon, stands the remains store to their country it’s ancient laws and of Sengcnnith Castle. On the n. and w. it privileges. This castle was a dependency 1113 PORT PENRHYN. PRESTEIGN. 1114 an Caerdiff, and a sort of outpost. The Tin- works at Melin Gryffydd, 4m. n. of Caer- diflF, are perhaps the largest in the king¬ dom, producing not less than 13,000 box¬ es of tin-plates, each containing -225 plates, in one year. Near this place the road to¬ wards Llandnff crosses the canal, while the Caerdiff road lies straight forwards. There ire few occurrences more gratifying to the mind, than the contrast of the scenery which lies higher up the vale, compared with that of Llandaff-bridge, a venerable structure, overhung with ivy. The river from a rapid, noisy, shallow torrent, be¬ comes here gentle and glassy, like a lake. There is a turnpike road from Llantrissent o Llandaff, running parallel with that just described and passing through the vale of Elwy. The character of the country here is altogether different; it affords, perhaps, the most advantageous specimen of rich¬ ness and cultivation to be met with in Gla¬ morganshire. At a short distance from Llantrissent on the r. are the ruins of an ancient monastery, dedicated to St. Cawr- daf; which tho’ of no great extent, is more distinct and complete than almost any thing of the kind remaining. On the 1. of the road about Pentyrch, are very ex¬ tensive coaleries, which abound, likewise, in iron-stone. One of these mines has been on fire many years. About the year 1797, mr. Richards, jun. the son of a respectable clergyman at Llantrissent, in pursuit of game, fell up to the middle in this heap of ashes then burning, he was extricated with difficulty, but much scorched. At present the fire seems to be extinct. The country from Pentyrch to Llandaff is fine, without any very marked object, except an inscrip¬ tion at Capel Llaniltern in the corner of the tower without, said to be to the mem¬ ory of Arthur’s wife. To Caerphilly, ^ miles, Skrine; Barber. — Merthyr Tydfil, 11 miles, Evans; Manby. — Caerdiff, 13 miles, Wyndham. — Brecon, by way of Merthyr Tydfil, £9 miles. — Lluudofi, 10 miles. POOL, See Welshpool. PORTHAETH WY, See Bancor Ferry. From Bangor, 2 miles, Pennant; Aikin; Evans; Bingley; Warner. - Penrhyn Castle, 1 mile, Bingley. PORT PENRHYN ; or, as anciently^ Aber-Cegul, on the n. border of Caernar¬ fonshire, is the grand depository of slates from the quarries of Dolowen, formed by an egress of the Cegin into the Mcnai. A- long the quay of this small port very large brigs and snows lie with sufficient depth of water. Vessels from 300 to 400 tons, here take their loading, which consists of extremely fine slates of a large size, and slabs of slate rock. Almost close to the the port is a small house, built by Wyatt, inhabited by the agent, in a pleasing style of architecture, and sheltered by a flourish¬ ing plantation, disposed with great taste. Near the port is a large manufactory of ciphering slates, inkstands, and other fancy articles. At a short distance, a handsome building including a set of hot and cold sea-w r ater baths, with dressing rooms, &c. exhibit, in their design and execution, much taste. On a small eminence above the banks of the Ogwyn, near the road to Capel Curio, stands the very neat struc¬ ture of Llandegai Church. In the vicinity of Penrhyn, upon the stream of the Ogwen is a curious mill for the purpose of grinding petrosilex, or chert, quartz, and flints, for the use of the porcelain and delph-ware potteries. Tire chertz and quartz are obtained from the base of Carneild Llewelyn, in the parish of Llan Llechid ; and the flints are bought, as ballast, in the ships which take slates to Ireland. An ore of manganese is also here prepared for bleaching ; and an ore of zinc, as a substitute for white lead. These are carried on by messrs. Worthington and Co. the former of whom is principal agent lor lady Penrhyn’s slate quarries. The road to Aber lies through a highly cultivated country. The Mcnai begins to expand itself from the harbours of Beau¬ maris and Conwy, into the Irish sea, be¬ yond the jetting promontories of the great and little Orme’s-head. The lofty Ogwyn is seen stretching e. The sullen Penraaen- mawr is in front; and variety of shipping bound to and from Liverpool may be seen in the distant offing. To Bangor, 1 ^ miles, Bingley. — Aber, 5 miles, Aikin; Evans. — Pen-maen-mawr, Warner. — I-landegai, 1 mile, Pennant. Back to Bangor, Evans. 1116 1115 PRESTEIGN. From Rhaiadyr, thence to Penybont, thence to Gaer Ditches or Caer Caradoc, near Clun, and down dre vale of Teme, about 50m. Skrine. ■- Hereford, 26 miles, Lipscomb. - Kington, 7 miles, Lipscomb’s return. PRESTEIGN, or Llari Andras, in the hundred and county of Radnor, is a hand¬ some well-built town, seated near the source of the Lug, a river celebrated for it's pleasant trout and grayling fishing, in a rich valley. In 1801 the population of this township was 1057. The Market is on Saturday; the Fairs on May 9, June 20, Dec. 11. Inn Radnorshire Arms. This place is a borough by prescription. The earl of Oxford, as steward of the Cantref of Maelienydd, (an appointment in the gift of the crown), nominates the bailiff. The ecclesiastic establishment here is a R. and V. united, with the chapel of Discoed. The earl of Oxford patron. Church dedi¬ cated to St. Andrew. It contains some monuments and tablets inscribed with the names of Owen, Price, and Davies, and there is a finely wrought piece of tapestry, in good preservation, representing Christ’s triumphal entry into Jerusalem. The walls are ornamented with inscriptions from the scriptures, and with the figures of Moses and Aaron, Time and Death. Over the great chancel window upon a stone is inscribed M. P. L., 1244, which have been supposed to mean, “ Martin, the Pope’s Legate.” This appears to be an error, as Richard Martine, according to Browne Willis’s Survey, p. 115, was consecrated July 1, 1482. He was an extraordinary benefactor to the town and obtained for it great privileges and a market. Theceme- tary contains little besides the rude fore¬ fathers of the hamlet. And yet the turfy bed of Tom Rogers deserves a line. Tom was an unrivalled fifer in the Radnorshire militia, and in competitions of skill bore off the prizes. This poor man, after 50 years of servitude, obtained his discharge accompanied with a Chelsea pension, but in journeying towards his native hills, he perished, within ^m. from his home, in the snow. At a former period of his life Tom fell sick, and apparently died. D—s, the most generous-hearted officer in the regiment, heard of the honest fifer’s fate, and repaired to the place where he lay. A thought occurred that the sparks of life might not be extinct, and he forced some brandy down Tom’s throat. Tom recov¬ ered and lived to thank his benefactor. “ God bless your honour,” said he, “ and I hope if ever I die again it will be by your honour’s side, and 1 hope you will not let me be buried without trying another drop of brandy.” Three years had slided away when the generous D—s left the regiment and went to reside at Presteign. He was accidentally one of the first spectators of this poor man’s fate ; but every spark of life was extinct and every effort to recover him was ineffectual.—Lipscombe. The rectory is worth at least 1000/. per an¬ num. The Free School, was founded by John Beddoes, esq. in the reign of queen Elizabeth. The Great and Quarter Sessions are held here, and the County Courts here and at Radnoralternately. This is the prin¬ cipal town in the county. It rose into emi¬ nence under the patronage of Martin bp. of St. Davids, about the close of the 13th century, and as New Radnor declined, this town became the capital. Abeautiful lit¬ tle eminence, formerly the site of the castle of Presteign, is called Warden Walks, pre¬ sented to the inhabitants by lord Oxford. Upon the summit is a bowling-green, and an unfinished pavillion. Weobhj encampment lies at the distance of 4m. to the s-e. situated upon a towering eminence. The prospect it commands renders it, independent of it’s antiquity, an object worthy of attention. To the s-e. is a stretch as far as May-hill, in Glocester- shire. The city of Hereford lies in the same direction, but is intercepted by a range of hills, which terminates in the promontory of Lady-lift. To the s. are Skerrit in Mon¬ mouthshire, and the Black Mountains. On thew. and n.w. are the Radnorshire hills, in a variety of shapes. Robin Hood’s Butts, a detached summit, stands in the middle of a beautiful plain called Pem- bridge bottom. The earl of Oxford’s seat at F.yvrood, is seen in the valley below, a- mong rich woods and plantations. On the n. the town of Presteign, and the villas at Broad-heath and Stapleton, lie at the foot. A high hill near Llanidloes (probably Biga mountain) peeps over some intervening mountains, and an opening to the n-e. af¬ fords a glimpse of Ridgeley-park, in Staf¬ fordshire. The camp is irregularly oval, the entrance was from the s. but several breaches have been made in the works. From the entrance to the n-w. side, there are four ditches, and the same number to Ills 1117 PRESTEIGN. the s-e. angle, and thence to the n-e. angle are 5 ditches, with large spaces of ground between them. The n. side is inaccessi¬ ble and has therefore only one vallum, which runs along the brow of the hill. A reservoir still exists in which is a constant supply of water, 14 or 15 feet deep. An ancient warrener conducted mr. Lipscomb round this camp, who said he had once an old book entitled, “ Lyte’s Light of Bri¬ tain ” which contained an account of this encampment, but he lent it to a neigbour- ing gentleman, and could not recover it. He remembered, however, that the camp was said to have been thrown up by the Romans, soon after the commencement of the Christian era, and that Caractacus had occupied it with a very formidable train. Somecoins have been found here not many years since. The whole of this hill is a rabbit warren, the wall enclosing it is 4m. round, which with the contiguous estate, are the property of the earl of Oxford. In returning to Presteign from visiting this encampment, descend the hill and regain the turnpike-road, take a track to the vil¬ lage of Xash where pass a deep and furious stream, and reach Presteign through a ro¬ mantic valley. Near this town is a place, called the King’s Turning, meaning, as is generally imagined, king Charles’s Turning, there being in one of the old Registers of the parish the following note. “ In the time of Oliver Cromwell, Nicholas Taylor, esq. lived at the lower heath in this parish, and when king Charles 1, fled before Oliver Cromwell, then in the neighbourhood of Hereford, he dined and slept at the Uni¬ corn Inn in Leominster, the first day, and the next two nights he slept at mr. Tay¬ lor’s (a short distance from the King’s Turning) from thence he rode over the hills to Newtown, and so on to Chester.” On quitting Presteign, mr. Skrine took the first considerable ascent which con¬ ducted him into the rich plain of Hereford¬ shire; but after a short range by Eyuood and Kington, he re-entered Radnorshire, and soon arrived at the county town of Radnor. The road to Radnor passes close to the Warden Walks in going out of Presteign, and ascends a steep hill, in a winding di¬ rection, from the summit of which is a wild but not unpleasant prospect of un¬ even ground. Descending this hill and climbing another, several hamlets and farms appear scattered among fields. Pas¬ sing a turnpike gate, the road winds to the 1. sheltered from the n. by a range of lofty eminences. On the s. is a fine valley, and beyond are many bold hills, bounded by the awful brow of the Black Mountains. The church of old Radnor stands on the edge of this valley. Pass mr. Lewis’s house in a low situation surrounded by planta¬ tions. Upon a hill close to the road, may be observed the spot used formerly for lighting a beacon. The descent into New Radnor is sudden. At the entrance is the lofty eminence upon which stood the cas¬ tle. A small fragment of the s. wall only remains. On his way to Ludlow, mr. Lipscomb passed through the enclosed country, leav¬ ing the earl of Oxford’s seat at Eywood, on the 1. After passing a few days under the hospitable roof of mr. D—s, he pur¬ sued his way through excessively bad roads. Two miles from Presteign passed some genteel villas, at the foot of the hill upon which is the fortification called Wcobly Camp. The village of Kinsliam with Kin- sham Court, the seat of the countess dowa¬ ger of Oxford, are on the 1. A bold craggy mountain darkens the road. Pass the seat of Viscount Bateman, then cross a bridge, and through the village of Shnbdon to Mor¬ timer's Cross, a place rendered famous in history from it’s vicinity to the spot on which Edward duke of York, (afterwards king Edward the 4th,) encountered the forces of Henry 6, under the command of Jasper earl of Pembroke.—See Wicmore; Pass Croft Castle, formerly the seat of Tho. Johnes, esq. proprietor of Hafod, but now of Somerset Davis, esq. From Yar/sole, lm. distant, enjoy a retrospect of the build¬ ings and grounds. Passed the village of Orlelon, hid among orchards. Three mile& from Ludlow is liichard’sCastle, a place of great antiquity and importance in the time ol the Normans. See 851. The approach to Ludlow on this route from Presteign is far from striking; neither the castle, the church, nor the river appear to advantage. The great road to Ludlow, lies by way of Stcp/eton Castle, lm. Willey-Cross, ljmi I.yngen, 1 Lm. Dickendale, l^m. Wigmore, 1 jm. (On the 1. is Wigmore-hall, S. Davis, esq. ; and 2m. on the r. of Wigmore, is Croft Castle.) Lenthall, 1 Jm. Elton, l£m. Aston, 2m. (2m. on the 1. is Dozenton Cas- 1119 PRESTEIGNE tic, Richard Payne Knight, esq.) St. Mary’s Knoll, lm. Cross the Teme immediately before entering into the town of Ludlow, 2m. The approach this way is highly in¬ teresting and grand. The bold towers of the castle reared upon an eminence, the church upon still higher ground, adds greatly to the concomitant scenery. A bold sweep of the river terminated by Lud- ford-bridge, will not fail to arrestattention. Having descended, the alpine path of Whitecliff, the change of scenery is greatly interesting. To Radnor, 7 miles, Skrine ; Lipscomb. — Ludlow, 19 miles, Lipscomb’s return.- — Knighton, 7 miles. — Leominster, 13 miles. — Bishop’s Castle, 19 miles. — Kington, 7 miles. — Rhaiadyr, 29 miles. PWLLHELI, is a small sea-port, situated on the s. side of the promontory of Llyn in the hundred of Gufflogion, in Caernar¬ vonshire, and parish of Denio, is a small market town and port, which has 3 or 4 streams falling into it’s traeth. The en¬ trance into that which forms the port, is by a round shaped rock, denominated Craig yr Imbell. This place was constituted a free borough in the 12th year that the Black Prince succeeded to the honour of Wales, at the request of Nigel de Loha- reyn. This and other grants were confirm¬ ed by Edward 3. It is governed by a may¬ or, 2 bailiffs, and a recorder. This town consists of a single street. It’s harbour will admit vessels of 60 tons burthen, which enables it to carry on an extensive coasting trade, and to form a depot, or grand maga¬ zine for supplying the s-w. district of the country. It appears from a statement by mr. George Chambers, published in the “ Cambrian Register” for 1795, page 319, that the number of ships and tonnage in 1792, exceeded those belonging Caernar¬ fon ; viz. the latter had 61 ships carrying 2240 tons, the former 81, amounting to 2461 tons. In 1801 this place contained 137 houses and 717 inhabitants. The mar¬ ket is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The Fairs are held March 5, May 13, June 30, Aug. 19, Sep. 24, Nov 11. This is one of the con tributary boroughs with Caernarfon, in returning one member to parliament. The petty sessions for the district of Llyn are held here. Along the PWLLHELI. 1120 coast, to Bardsley island, a considerable trade in fishing is carried on. Vast shoals of herrings frequent the bays and creeks, which are taken and some of them are salt¬ ed on the shore, and others are sold to the Irish; who send over small craft for the purpose. Many of the fish called John Dorees, (or Zeus Faber of Linnasus) are taken here. They were formerly returned to their native element by the fishermen, till the welsh gentry discovered, that in despight of it’s uncouth and forbidding shape, this fish was the bonne bouche of Quin, that celebrated actor and epicure; it then became an object of luxury among the welsh. The Smelt, (Athcrina Hcpse- tus) is also found upon these shores, and a small lobster differing from the common sort, and burrowing in the sands. The salubrity of the air, and wholcsomencss of fish-diet may probably be evinced from the number of births in the period between 1787 to 1796 having exceeded that from 1757 to 1766 one half, births in the first period 253, in the 2d 320. From a table in the rev. W. Davies’s Gen. View, p. 439, only 2 other similar instances occur in N. Wales these are Llanclegai, and Llansilin. Carn-madryn, a strong fortress of the sons of Owen Gwynedd, lies at the distance of 5m. The bottom, sides, and top, are filled with cells of different shapes, once cover¬ ed, many of which are tolerably entire. At Llangyln, distant 3m. from Pwllheli and 12 from Caernarfon, is a mineral wa¬ ter of excellent use in diseases of the eyes. This unanalyzed spring is heavier than common water, and lighter than sea-water, is mixed with a large portion of mineral spirits, contains a mineral alkalline salt, and a white metalic earth. To Caernarfon through Clynoc Fawr some objects worthy of remark occur. The first is a valley called Nant y Gicrtheyrn, or the Valley of Vortigern, whither that prince is said to have sought an asylum a- gainst the persecution of his subjects. “ Fancy cannot frame a place,” says mr. Pennant, “ more fit for a retreat from the knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire one with full hopes of security. Embosomed in a lofty mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no vegetables appear but the blasted heath and stunted gorse. The third side exhibits a most tremendous black preci¬ pice, with the loftiest peak of the moun- PYLE. PYLE-INN. 1172 tain Eifl soaring above. The only opening towards this secluded spot is the sea; a northern aspect, where chilling winds exert all their fury, and half freeze, during the winter, it's few inhabitants.”—Pen¬ nant, ii, 201. At Clynnog Faier is one of the largest and handsomest churches in Wales, dedicated to St. Beuno, who founded a college at Cli/itOg in Arfon in the year 616. Dinas Dirtl/c an encampment on the sea- coast is an object of great attraction on this road. A considerable part of the hill upon which it was formed has been washed a- way by the sea. The Promontory of Llyn extends to the w. of the mass of mountains occupying the space between the w. entrance of the Menai, and Traeth Mawr, not very dis¬ similar in shape to the county of Corn¬ wall. It’s length is about 22m. and it’s extreme breadth somewhat exceeds 10m. at it’s w. extremity, however, it is scarce¬ ly Snr. across. It forms the n. horn of Caerdigan bay, and separates the latter from Caernarfon bay. When viewed from Barmouth, from the hills above Aberdofey, or from Abcrystwith, it presents the ap¬ pearance of an interrupted range of conic mountains, which decrease in height and increase in distance one from the other, in proceeding in an e. direction. At the extremity of this promontory is the island of Bardsev. A surveyof this district may be conveniently commenced at Toni AbERCLASLYN. To Caernarvon, 27 miles. — Criccactli, 9 miles. #/// r///cr/y //y//y yy yr /y yyyy FromMarjan Patk, 3miles, Barber; Malkin. —- St Donatts, 11 miles, Skrine ; Warner. - Ewenny Priory, 7m. Wyndliam; Donovan. —— Cowfiridge, 13 miles. PYLE, in the hundred of Newcastle, Glamorganshire, is a Chapelry to the vic¬ arage of Cynfig, in the patronage of the :rown. In 1801 the population of this parish was 406. There is a spring of cold water near the chapel, called Collwyn Well, rnce famed for medicinal virtues. PYLE-INN in Glamorganshire, is a mag- rificent house, built by mr. Talbot, for the iccommodation of the public, in a retired ituation and beautiful country, 6m. n-w. if Bridgend in Glamorganshire, kept by — Marment. Mr. Warner says the house nakes up forty beds. The landlord is truly 31 attentive to his guests, and full of anecdote and whim. He appears to have treasured the whole of Joe Milter, with additions and emendations A good garden and shrub¬ bery are attached to the house, whence is a fine sea view. An eminent aged harp¬ er resides near this place. The church at Pyle is handsome. When at Pyle, mr. Wyndham made a little walking excursion to Cynfig. On his return he followed the little brook which runs from the ruins towards the inn, and was much surprised with the uncommon strength of a spring which rose like a spout from a small pool adjoining to the rivulet. In approaching Margan along a lane, he noticed one of the pillars mentioned by Camden, standing upright. The follow¬ ing inscription was perfectly legible, “ Funpeius Car Antopius.” The Castle of Cynfig, one of Fitzhamon’s residences, stood upon a mount; but it has been so enveloped in S3nd, that there is scarcely any traces remaining of it. Cynfig pool is said to be. unfathomable. Newton is a commodious and agreeable bathing-place, with a fine shore. Merthyr Mater is a well-wooded, pretty place, on the w. bank of Ogmore river. On the e. side, at the confluence of the rivers Ewen¬ ny and Ogmore, William de London, after having obtained the lordship of Ogmore, built a strong castle It’s remains, tiio’ of no great magnitude are interesting. Near this place there are several pits, like those in Gower, hedged round. At Tythegstone, on the estate of Henry Knight, esq., there is a demolished cromlech, with a heap of stones thrown over it. The top stone is visible. Laleslon will be thought inter¬ esting to the antiquary, as connected with the improvement, if not the introduction of castle architecture, and probably the gothic, into Glamorganshire. On the road to Margan, about lm. be¬ yond Pyle are two curious relics of ancient british sculpture, these form a footbridge over a rivulet on the r. side of the public road. The current passes close by a farm house called Court-y-Da fydd. The village of Margan continues in view a considerable part of the road ; it lies in a bottom, under a finely wooded range of mountain, form¬ ing a picture of rural beauty. Leaving the village a few score paces to the 1. a plain carriage road leads to the gate park and gardens, in the midst of which a new con- \ 123 RADNOR. 1124 servatory rises in a conspicuous manner.— E. Donovan. To Newton, 4 miles, Barber. — Bridgend, 7 miles, Malkin. — Margan, 3 miles, Wyndham j Donovan j Skrinc; Warner. — Cowbridge, 12{ miles. of these have no buildings and some of them arc only foot-paths. It’s decline may be ascribed first to it’s ceasing to be kept fortified and garrisoned as a frontier town; it’s proximity to Prcsteign and Kington ; and it’s cold situation, and scar, city of fuel. As this place declined Pres- teign improved and became the principal town in the county. Old Radnor had been burnt about the close of the 12th century, and about a century after, in the time of the rebellion against Henry 4, New Radnor shared the same fate, and has never been Trom Hay, 12 miles, Malkin. - Knighton, ll£ miles,.Wyndham. - Presteign,7 miles, Skrine. RADNOR, (NEW) or Maes-yfed new- ydd, is a town having separate jurisdic- restored. The Town-Hall and Prison are tion, which has long been degraded into opposite one to the other in Broad-street, a miserable village, containing but very The Corporation consists of a bailiff, 25 few houses and those few ill arranged, capital burgesses, 2 aldermen, a recorder, situated in a district called the Liberties coroner, town-clerk, and other officers, of the Town of New Radnor, Radnorshire. The bailiff’s courts, and petty sessions are In 1801 the population of the borough and regularly holdc-n every Monday, and the township was 329. The Market has long quarter sessions for the borough on the been discontinued. The Fairs are held Monday in the 2d week after Epiphany, on Tuesday before Holy Thursday, Tues- Easter, July 7, and Michaelmas. The day after Trinity Sunday, Aug. 14, Oct. 28, Sheriff's county courts for the recovery of 29. The annual Wake is held on the 3d Sunday in Aug. The parish contains 3750 acres. This village is placed near the river Somcrgill, at the entrance of the pass from the mountainous part of the county to the small debts under 40s. are held here al¬ ternately with Prestcign. A representative for the borough is chosen by the burgesses of New Radnor, in conjunction with the contributaries Knighton, Rhaiadyr, Cefn fertile vale of Radnor. We are informed Llys and Cnwclas. A benefit Society for by Caradog that about the year 990, Mere- the relief of diseased members commenc- dydd ab Owain destroyed the town of Rad- ed in 177S, consisting of about 100 per¬ nor in a ferocious contest with his nephew, sons. Each member contributes 10J. who had been assisting the English to ra- monthly, and in illness receives 5s. wcek- vage S. Wales. There are still some re- ly, at his death 51. is paid towards his fu- mains of it’s castle, upon an eminence nerat expenses. Some honorary members commanding the town, and about the year contribute one guinea annually. Henry 1773 on digging upon it’s site, 6 or 7 small Smith, esq. of London, left an annuity out pointed arches of good masonry were dis- of an estate and lands called Longney- covered, and several ancient instruments, farm, near Glocester. John Green, gent. The intrenchments are nearly entire. The of Hereford, bequeathed 300/. the interest outer ward, called Baili Glas or the Green of which to be distributed, 10/. to a charity Court Yard is still distinct from the keep, school in the parish of New Radnor, 31. About the year 1788, when the turnpike- in bread monthly, and the remainder to road was made, some workmen digging purchasing articles for the church. The for stones discovered among the rubbish Church stands upon an eminence just be- several cannon balls, and 2 battle-axes, low the castle. It is a small edifice con- The building was demolished by the par- sisting of a nave, a side aisle, on the s. side, liamentary forces in the civil wars. The and a chancel. It has a tower containing site of the town-walls and the moat are 4 large bells, a smaller one, and a clock, visible, particularly on the w. and s. sides. The side aisle is separated from the nave The area of the town inclosed was an ob- by five octagon pillars and pointed arches, long square, containing about 26 acres of The tower and considerable part of the ground. It seems to have been laid out church, were erected upon a portion of into 3 longitudinal streets called High- wall which was probably part of a former street, Broad-street, and Water-street, in- church, supposed to be coeval with the tcrscctcd by five transverse ones. Several castle. The tower was originally higher. 1126 1125 RADNOR. Inn, The Cross. “ It was with great diffi¬ culty that we could procure aslight break¬ fast, or even provender for our horses; and when obtained we were required to pay for them like englishmen.”—Lipscomb. The Forest of Radnor rises immediately from the n. of the town to a very consider¬ able height. From a prominent part of this eminence, which is opposite to the place called the Wimble, are very exten¬ sive prospects. Downton-Hall, a modern built seat of Percival Lewis, esq. lm. s-e. from the town. Harpton Court, Thomas Frankland Lewis, esq. lm. s. of the last. If 'ater-break-it’s-neck, a celebrated water¬ fall of 10 feet in height, is situated 2m. w. of the town, much visited by travellers. A path along the side of a steep mountain, with a brook, rolling below, leads to the entrance of the chasm. The grandeur of the fall is much heightened by an insulated mass of rock 20 feet high, standing erect above the great water-fall. The spring rises at no great distance from the cascade, and at some seasons it is nearly dry. The road to Radnor may be regained by pur¬ suing a narrow path upon the side of this alpine ridge, where it enters an enclosed country under the promontory of LLan- degles Rocks, which resembles Crockern Torr and Brent Torr, in Cornwall and De¬ vonshire, and there is a path over the hills to Penybont. The general custom is to return to Radnor. There is an intrenched Dyke, at the w. extremity of the parish, and lm. from the town, which was con¬ tinued from one side of the narrow vale to the other. Tradition preset ves the re¬ membrance of a battle having been fought at a short distance e. from the town ; the spot is called War close. OLD RADNOR, or Maes yfed Hen. A station 2 or 3m. s. has been supposed by Camden, to have been the Magnos of An¬ toninus, garrisoned by the Phaciensian regiment in the reign of Theodosius the younger. It’s decline is dated from the re¬ bellion of Owen Glyndwr, who destroyed the castle and ravaged all the surrounding district. Horsley denies that it is of roman origin. The Church is a venerable edifice, with a large tower, and 6 bells. It is built Upon a rock whence it has been called Pen y Craig; the summit of a rock. It is a large Stone building, consisting of a nave and dhancel, with some monuments to the ihcmory of the family of Lewis of Harpton. The font is noticed on account of the largeness of it’s bowl, and some external carving. A curious screen richly carved in wood, which, contrary to the usual cus¬ tom of church architecture, extends across the nave, and two side aisles. This district abounds with lime. In 1801 the popula¬ tion of this parish, (including the town¬ ships of Bareland and Burfa, Ednol, Even- jobb and Newcastle, Harpton and Wool- pits, Lower Harpton, Kennarton and Sal¬ ford, Old Radnor and Burlingjobb, and Walton and Wymaston) was 1166. On the great road to Rhaiadyr, at l^m. over the Mund Mountain is the little village of Llanfihangel Nant Melon, 2m. 5f. Two miles on the 1. is a mineral well called Blanedow, and between the moun¬ tains the cascade called Water-break.it’s- neck. This vicinity is rural and well- w’ooded. Thus far the road between New Radnor and Buallt is retraced. The road towards Rhaiadyr, however, separates on the r. Pass over Llankilling mountain, and Forest of Radnor to Gieynar Orgulad, 2m. If. Cross an open country to Llandcgles, 2m. 3f. a village consisting of but few houses, but those are interestingly placed. A painted post on the r. points to Llandeg- les Wells, a sulphureous vitriolic water, which rises in a field near the road. A lit¬ tle way further, just by Falden cross the small river Comran which falls into the Ithon a little below Penybont, lm. 7f. a hamlet, the situation of which is pleasing. The traveller may be agreeably surprised in finding on this spot a good inn, at which there is a post chaise. Two modern hous¬ es are distinguished from the rest. One was erected by John Price, banker and shopkeeper, a man of obscure origin, who to the astonishment of the country amas¬ sed, in this small and mean hamlet, the enormous property of 100,000/. He died about the latter end of 1798, and left this handsome fortune to a daughter then only 5 years old. The other is a neat modern built-house, placed upon a summit front¬ ing Penybont, at the expense of it’s resi¬ dent Middleton Jones, esq. About 4m. to the s-w. are Llandrindod Wells. On the direct road towards Rhaiadyr, just be¬ yond Penybont is Cefen Llys, or the Court House Hill. Camden says that there was the ruins of an ancient fortress upon the spot when he wrote, upon a bank of the Ithon, which almost surrounds the house. 1127 RADNOR’. RADNORSHIRE. 1128 except on one side, where it lies open to the common. This is an admirable situa¬ tion of defence, and before the invention of modern artillery, must have been al¬ most impregnable. Close by is a place called Llanbddern Fawr. The country here¬ abouts is dreary, but improves as you reach the parish of Nantmcl, (honey-brook) 5 jm. the church of which forms an object from several points of view. Betweeu Llanba- bern Fawr and Nantmel, the road crosses the Clywedoc, another tributary to tire Ithon, which rises above Abbey Cwm Hir, a religious house, in a delightful and fer¬ tile dell, about 7 m. to the n-e. ffendre Fach, lm. 6 f. is thp only spot worth atten¬ tion till you come near Rhaiadyr. The descent to it is truly grand. From New Radnor mr. Skrine entering upon a rvild plain, by execrable roads, yet not unmixed with agreeable features, he regained the banks of the Wye, and enter¬ ed Buallt. *TheGreatRoad to Builth, lies through Llcinfhangel Nant Mellon, 2 m. 5f. (on the r. to Rhaiadyr, 16Jm.; and Aberystwith, 45§m.) Cross theEddotv river which falls into the Wye, to Boilybuchan, 4jm., JSlew- ' house, 5f. Pemross, |-m. Cross the Wye to Builth, 3m. If. To Rhaiadyr, 10 miles, Malkin ; Lipscomb. — Hay, (through Glasgwn, 44 miles, and Ncx'- Clnlrch, 24 miles,) 14 miles, Wyndham. — Ruilih, 11^ miles, Skrine. — Kinglon, 7 miles. RADNORSHIRE is bounded on the n. by Montgomeryshire, on the e. by Shrop¬ shire and Herefordshire, on the s.and s-w. by 'Brecknockshire, and on the n-w. by Cardiganshire. It contains one borough, which is New Radnor, and two market towns, viz. Knighton and Presteigne. It is divided into the hundreds of Colwyn, Kefenlys, Knighton, Paincastle, Radnor, and Rhaiadyr, in which are 52 parishes. It’s greatest length is 26m. it’s greatest breadth 31m. and it’s circumference 86 m. .containing 455 square miles, 291,200 acres. It sends 2 members to parliament; i.e. one for Radnor, Rhaiadyr, Knighton, Knucklass, and Cefnlys, and one for the shire. This country lies in the diocese of St. Davids, and province of Canterbury. The Streams of this county supply an a- bundance of excellent salmon, trout, and grayling. Several standing lakes also af- fordplcntyof fish, particularly Llyn Gwyn, near Rhaiadyr, and Glanhilyn, in Radnor forest. The Wye is it’s principal river, forming the boundary between the coun¬ ties of Brecknockshire and Radnorshire ; it’s tributaries are Clarwen and Clarwy, Which receive the Elain ; the Ithon. with Dnlas, Clywedoc, and Cyrnran ; theEdwy and Machwy. The e. part of Radnorshire is a fine country, but has nothing uncom¬ mon in it’s landscapes, buildings, or local objects. The Lug is the principal river on this side, which rises in the interior of the county and quits it at Presteign. Near Leominster it takes the Arrow. Oflfa’s Dike passes within the e. boundary of this county. The grandeur and beauty of Rad¬ norshire lie chiefly upon it’s w.side. The narrow edge of the Wye opposite Breck¬ nockshire, and the n-w. corner which touches upon the counties of Montgomery and Caerdigan contain it’s strongest fea¬ tures ; yet the dingle through which runs the Machwy, the vale of Edwy, and the beauties of Cwm Elain form exceptions. The Mount ai ns are mostly low and broad at the top, so as to be easily cultivated, if there were not already a larger proportion of ground in tillage than the natives turn to good account. The Soil is generally good, but they depend principally on their sheep, which occasions some of the best land to be let at a lower rent than some of the worst. The language of this county is almost universally English, the angle of the county beyond Rhaiadyr to the n-w. excepted. They grow much corn in the e. and appear to live with full as much freedom and comfort as the people of Bre¬ conshire, and with much more than those of Cardiganshire. Their cottages in gen¬ eral seem to be substantially weather¬ proof, tho’ they have not the cleanliness and conveniences of those of Glamorgan¬ shire. Sheep are very numerous in this county, and they constitute the chief sup¬ port of the industrious poor. There are no large manufactories established, but the people make a sufficient quantity of coarse cloth, flannel and stockings for their own use. The woods and hills are plentifully stocked with game, and according to Le- land, wild deer were once in great abun¬ dance. Heaps of stones are very common upon the Radnorshire mountains, always circular, generally highest in the middle, RADNORSHIRE. RAGLAN. 1130 and from 60 to TO feet in diameter. The earldom of Radnor was created in the time of Charles 2. The Roads through the middle of Radnorshire are good, and post¬ ing-houses are at Rhaiadyr and Penybont; also at Aberystwith, Llanbedr, and the Hafod-arms. The custom of dancing in their church-yards, at their feasts and rev¬ els is universal in this county. It is strange that the memorials of the dead should not lessen the impulses of joy in minds that are impressed by vulgar super¬ stition. In the vale of Radnor are numer¬ ous lime-kilns, supplied with an abund¬ ance of calcareous stone ; but coal is not found any where in the county, tho’ at Llandrindod a brown or blackish earth plentifully mixed with a mineral bitumen, the certain effect of coal, is conspicuous. Mr. Malkin says that the celebrated tour by water from the mouth of the Severn up the Wye to it’s junction with the Lug, and thence by land through Here¬ ford to Brecon, Llansaintfred, Crickhowel, Gwern Vale, Hay, Buallt, Radnor, Llan- degles, Penybont, Llandrindod, Llanbedr fawr, Rhaiadyr, or the route which he took through Breconshire and Radnorshire, is by far the most picturesque and inter¬ esting. He recommends it in preference to all others, to those who only travel once through this district. FromUsk, 5 miles, Coxe; Earber; Skrine. -Abergavenny, 9 miles, Wyndham; Evans. RAGLAN, in Monmouthshire, is a vil¬ lage which lies nearly mid-way on the road from Monmouth to Usk. The Beau¬ fort arms is the principal inn. Mr. Webb complains that the hostess treated him with incivility, was shy at answering questions, and appeared consequential. He had, he says, a bad dinner, for which he was exorbitantly charged. This, how¬ ever, he expected, lor extortion he had universally found to succeed incivility and inattention. For the benefit of future visitors, he informs, them, that Raglan, contains another inn called the Ship, and £m. beyond, is a small pot-house, where are good accommodations.—Excursions, p. 325, The Castle is situated nearly in the centre of the lowland part of the county, and may be visited from Chepstow, Mon¬ mouth, Abergavenny, and U»k, with per¬ fect ease. Mr. Coxe made several excur¬ sions to it from different quarters, but found the route from Chepstow over the ridge of the Devaudon, most interesting, and abounding with a greater variety of picturesque beauty. The Castle stands upon a gentle eminence near the village. At some distance the ruins appear but a shapeless mass, half hid by intervening trees ; on a nearer approach, they assume a more distinct form; and present an as¬ semblage highly beautiful and grand. The citadel is a detached building to the s. of the castle, half demolished, but was a large hexagon 5 stories high, defended by bas¬ tions, surrounded with a moat, and con¬ nected with the castle by a drawbridge. A stone stair-case leads to the top of a re¬ maining tower, whence may be seen the contiguous outworks, the majestic rums of the castle, and an extensive tract of country, bounded by distant hills and mountains,in the neighbourhood of Aber¬ gavenny. The citadel was surrounded with raised walks; in the walls with which they were bounded arc vestiges of niches, once containing statutes. The shell of the castle incloses 2 courts, each of which communicate with the terrace, by means of a gateway, and a bridge car¬ ried over the moat. The edifice was faced with hewn freestone, which has received little injury from time, and gives an ele¬ gant appearance to the ruins. The princi¬ pal entrance is the most magnificent; it is formed by a gothic portal, flanked with 2 massive towers ; the one beautifully tuft¬ ed with ivy, the 2d is entirely covered. At a short distance on the r. appears a 3d tower, lower in height, almost without ivy, .with a machicolated summit. The porch which leads into the first court, con¬ tains groves for portcullisses, and was once paved. The e. and n. sides contained a range of culinary offices, among which the kitchen is remakable for the size of the fire-place ; the s. side seems to have form¬ ed a grand suite of apartments. The hpw- window of the hall at the s-w. extremity of the court is finely canopied with iyy. The stately hall which divides tire two ^ourts, seem of the time of Elizabeth., It was the great banquetting room of the cas¬ tle. At one end are the arms of the first Marquis of Worcester. Underneath is the family motto: “ Mustare vel timere sper- no.” y scorn either to change or fear.) 1131 ItAGLAN. 113<2 To the n. of the liall are ranges of offices, which appear to have been butteries ; be¬ yond are traces of splendid apartments. In the walls above are 2 chimney-pieces in high preservation, with elegant mould¬ ings. The w. door of the hall led into the chapel, which is delapidated, but it’s situa¬ tion is marked by some of the flying col¬ umns, rising from grotesque heads, which supported the roof. At the upper end are 2 rude whole length figures in stone, sev¬ eral yards above the ground, which had been long invelloped under clusters of ivy till lately uncovered by mr. Heath, of Monmouth, during an examination of these ruins. Beyond the foundations of the chap¬ el is the area of the 2d court, skirted with a range of buildings, which, at the time of the seige formed the barracks of the garrison. Not the smallest traces remain of the marble fountain, which once occu¬ pied the centre of the area. The vaults and subterraneous cells, under the hall, courts, and surrounding apartments are considerable. From the 2d court, a bridge thrown across the moat leads to the plat, form, or terrace, which almost surrounds the citadel; the s-w. side is still perfect, and forms a walk of 60 feet in breadth, and 300 in length, commanding a pleasing and extensive view. At one extremity stands an ancient elm, measuring near the foot 28 feet 5 inches in circumference,probably it is one which has survived the other part of a row. The shape of the outworks and their dimensions maybe traced by the re¬ mains of bastions, hornworks, trenches, and ramparts. A curious account of this castle is in the possession of the rev. mr. Jones, of Pistil!, which is partly primed in the history of Monmouthshire, and in Heath’s account of Raglan castle. The earliest style perceivable in the building is not anterior to the reign of Hen. y 5, and the more modern as late as the rtrea of Charles 1; the fashion of the arches doors, and windows, and the style of th .* orna- meffls, are progressively of the intjrmedi- ate ages. It’s construction may be ascrib¬ ed principally to sir William ap Thomas, dnd his son the earl of Pembroke; additions were made by the earls of Worcester, and the citadel and outworks were probably added by the marquis of Worcester, who last resided in this sumptuous mansion. The first marquis of Worcester supported here a garrison of 800 men ; and on the surrender of the castle, besides his own family and friends, the officers alone were no less than 4 colonels, 82 captains, 16 lieutenants, 6 cornets, 4 ensigns, and 4 quartermasters, besides 52 esquires and gentlemen. The demesnes of the castle corresponded with the magnitude of the establishment, besides the gardens and pleasure-grounds adjoining to the man¬ sion, the farms were numerous and well- conditioned. The meadows around Llan- denny were appropriated to the dairy; an extensive tract formed the home park, and the red deer park stretched beyond Llandeilo Cresseney. In the thirteenth century, the family of Clare seem to have possessed a castle at Raglan. According to Duglale, Richard Strongbow, the last male of this puissant line, gave, in the reign of Henry 2, the castle and manor of Raglan, in the county of Monmouth, to Walter Bloet, whose daughter brought it to sir James Berkeley. It does not how¬ ever seem to have continued in the pos¬ session of the Berkeleys, for sir William ap Thomas, son of Maud, daughter of sir John Morley, by Thomas ap Gwillim ap Jenkin, who was seated at Llansanfraed was proprietor in the reign of Henry 5. His eldest sbn, William, was creatod by Edward 4, lord of Raglan, Chepstow, and Gower, and was commanded to assume the surname of Herbert, in honour of his ancestor Herbert Fitz-Henry, who was chamberlain to Henry 1. Edward 4, en¬ trusted him with the custody of the earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry 7, who was detained in the castle of Raglan for. some time. In 1469 lord Herbert was created earl of Pembroke, and exerted himself by raising an army of Welshmen to oppose the Lancastrians under the earl of Warwick. Being taken prisoner at the battle of Danes-moor, he was beheaded at Banbury. He, met his fate with the most noble fortitude and resignation. His eldest son William inherited his titles and estates. Dying in 1491 without male issue, his daughter and heiress Elizabeth conveyed to her husband, sir Charles Somerset, the castle of Raglan, and other estates. He was natural son of Henry Beaufort, duke of Somerset, who was beheaded in 1463, for his adherence to the house of Lancas¬ ter. After being engaged in many impor¬ tant affairs of state, during the reigns of Henry the 7th and 8th, he died in 1526 1133 RAGLAN. 1134 full of honours, in an advanced age, and was buried in the chapel of Windsor. Rag¬ lan castle continued to be the principal re¬ sidence of his posterity. His descent from royalty entitled him to assume the arms of England, which are still borne by his il¬ lustrious descendent, the present duke of Beaufort. Raglan castle is greatly distinguished in the annals of English his¬ tory, from the seige which it withstood against the parliamentary army, under the command of Fairfax. It was valiantly de¬ fended by Henry, first marquis of Worces¬ ter, and notwithstanding it’s extensive out¬ works and scanty garrison, had the honour of being almost the last fortress in the kingdom, reduced by the republican troops. Henry, 5th earl, and first marquis of Worcester, was born in 1562, and sum¬ moned to the first parliament of king James. He was created marquis of Wor¬ cester in 1642. During the civil commo¬ tions, Charles 1 made several visits to Rag¬ lan castle, and was entertained with be¬ coming magnificence. At onetime the king being apprehensive lest the stores of the garrison should be consumed by his suite, empowered him to exact from the country such provisions as were necessary for his remuneration. “ I humbly thank your majesty,” he answered, “ but my castle would not long stand if it leaned up¬ on the country ; I had rather be brought to a morsel of bread, than that any morsels of bread should be exacted from others.” Soon after the king’s retreat from Mon¬ mouthshire, the castle was slightly invest¬ ed by sir Trevor Williams, and threatened by colonel Morgan, who advanced from Worcester at the head of a formidable de¬ tachment. The aged marquis refused to surrenderafter two successive summonses. Sir Thomas Fairfax came from Bath, the approaches were carried on with great vigour, and he was compelled to surren¬ der. Tire marquis was carried prisoner to London, where he died aged 85. His es¬ tates valued at 20,000/. a year were con¬ fiscated. On the restoration these estates were recovered by the family, but Raglan castle had been dismantled by the parlia¬ mentary army. The numerous tenants in the vicinity also conveyed away the stone for the construction of farm-houses, barns, &C. Not less than 23 staircases were taken down by these devastators; but the pfoseot duke of Beaufort had no sooner succeeded to the estate, than he ordered that a stone should not be removed from it’s situation. A fine library was destroy¬ ed here by the infamously ignorant sol¬ diery of Cromwell. The exquisite beauty and grandeur of the mountains a- round Abergavenny, as seen from the vi¬ cinity of Raglan castle, can scarcely be ex¬ ceeded. The Church of Raglan, a neat stone building, in the pointed norman style, with a square embattled tower, stands in the middle of the village. A chapel on the n. side of the chancel w3s formerly a cemctary of the Beaufort fami¬ ly, and several of the earls of Worcester are here interred. The first was William, third earl of Worcester, who in 1549 suc¬ ceeded his father Henry, at the age of 22, in his honours and estates. He died on the 21st of Feb. 1588, and was buried at Raglan, but there are no traces of his monument. The 2d earl of Worcester in¬ terred here was Edward, son of the pre¬ ceding. He died in London, and his corpse, was conveyed to Raglan March 30, 1628. Two headless and mutilated alabaster figures of a man with a collar of the garter, and of a woman, some irons from which the banners were suspended, an ancient helmet, and a portcullis, the crest of the Beaufort family, are almost all that remain of a splendid monument to the memory of this personage. The 3d whose ashes re¬ pose in this church, is Edward the 6th earl and 2d marquis of Worcester, who is very eminent in the history of those times. In addition to his hereditary titles lie was created earl of Glamorgan. In the latter part of his life he left off all interference in state affairs and devoted himself to lit¬ erary pursuits. In 1663 he published “ A Century of the Names and Scantlings of such Inventions as I can at present call to mind to have tried and perfected.” Capt. Savary the reputed inventor of the steam engine, appears to have gained this won¬ derful machine from the marquis's 68th article in the Century of Scantlings. Dr. Desaguliers says that Savary in order to conceal his original bought Up the Mar¬ quis’s books and burnt them. Probably it is on this account that this work is extreme¬ ly scarce. It is however given in the 18th volume of the Gentleman’s Mag. See also Walpole’s Royal Authors, article Edward Somerset marquis of Worcester, and Gran¬ ger’s Biog. Hist, of England, voL iii, p. 1P. ,U35 RAGLAN. RHAIADYR. 1136 He died in 1667 and his body \vas convey¬ ed to London. [Chiefly from Coxe’s Mon- moftthsHti'c.'] ' On the road to Chepstow a long as,cent occurs, fiohv the summit of wlii,ch is an extensive view over' thd middle parts qf Mod mouths hire; Ah undulating tract of un- comrfion' le'rtility And high caltivation. A- nother considcfable height about 3m. fur¬ ther commands a similar view, from vvhicb at a short distance is tlie summit of Dcvau- dun, a reWiarkable elevation, whence a most extensive view may be had, not on¬ ly over the cotintry n. but in the opposite direction, over rhe Bsitish channel and it’s opposing sliords.' Descending into an a- greeable valley, the opposite hills of which ’ are clothed with wild forest trees, the de¬ cayed town of Shire Newtown occupies the summit of a high hill bordering the vale. Passing about halfway towards Jhe village of Crick, turn oSfthe road to visit Whinslo'n, an ecclesiastical ruin concealed in a se¬ questered thicket. The picturesque rem¬ nant of a srriall chapel is the only existing part. Frotn Crick occurs an old roman ' causeway. From Kaglafi Castle, mr. Skrine pursued 1 the ChepstoW road for the purpose of as¬ cending the high ridge of Devaudon, and contemplating the charming prospects thence. On this summit he fell in with the road to Monmouth, whicli he reached after a descent of 3m. On the wily to Abergavenny, may be visited Llanarlh Castle, the seat of John Jones, esq. at the distance of 3m. in a n- ‘ w. direction. Pass by way of Court Robert. Llanarth Castle is a handsome modern structure, the front presenting an elegant portico, resembling that of the temple of Paestum. It stands upon a gentle'declivity. The Church appears to be very ancient, yet it contains nothing remarkable ex¬ cept a curious sepulchral inscription on one of thd Herbert family. To the s-w. appear Clytha Castle, the seat of Wm, Jones, esq. a picturesque object, tipon the slope of an eminence, swelling from the banks of the Usk, and crowned by the Coed y Brunedd. A beautiful gothic gateway forms the entrance to the ground. Hence a lower ridge gradually descends towards the vale, and terminates in a rich knoll of wood at Ponty Goetre, the seat of dr. Hooper. To the n-w. appears the mag¬ nificent Blorenge ; on the n. the elegant cone of the Sugar-loaf towers above the swell of the little Skyrrid, and to the e. rises the abrupt ridge of the great Skyrrid. Llansantfrded House, is the seat of James Green, esq. This spot is remarkable as the mansion of Thomas ap, Gwillim, from whom the carls of Pembroke, Powis, and Caernarvon, are descended by the male, and the dukes of Beaufort by the female line The’view from the lawn is extreme¬ ly pleasing ; it commands an undulating tract, rising from the banks of the Usk, bounded by a chain of fertile eminences, and backed by hills and mountains. ToCaerwent, 13 miles, Bingleyj Barber. — Abergavenny, 10 miles, Coxe. — Striguil Castle, by way of Usk, II miles, Evans; — Monmouth, 8 miles, Wyndhaiit; Skrine. From Radnor,' 19 miles, Malkin; Lipscomb. -Buallt, 13^ miles, Barber, Warntir. - Ilafod, 17 miles, Skrine. RHAIADYR, or Rhaiadyr gwy, signi¬ fying a fall of water, was formerly the principal village in the cantref of Mae- lienydd, now being in the hundred of Rhaiadyr, Radnorshire. The population of the parish' in LSD l was 374. The Mar¬ ket is on Wednesday; the Fairs on the 6th and 27th of Aug. Sep. 26, Oct. 14, Dec. 3.; besides 3 great markets in May. The town lies in a valley surrounded by hills, and contains 4 streets, which intersect at right angles, the town-hall standing in the centre. It is one of the 5 contributary bo¬ roughs which return a burgess to serve in parliament for the town of New Radnor. In the year 457 Vortigern being discom¬ fited by Henglst, whom he had invited to his assistance against the picts and scots, took shelter in the fastnesses of this neigh¬ bourhood. There are several earns or barrows in the vicinity of this place ; the most remarkable of which is that of Tom- men Saint Ffraul, on the w-s-w. side of the town, in the parish of Cwm y dau ddwr, supposed to be the cemetary of Saint Ffraid, the popish tutelary saint of that parish. On the w-n-w. side formerlystood a castle, built about a.d. 1178, by Rhysap GrufFydd, to check the incursions of the normans. In 1194 prince Rhys was sur¬ prised and taken prisoner by his unnatural sons. During this confinement, the sons of Cadwalhon ap Madawe of Maelienydd besieged and took Rhaiadyr gwy Castle. 113S 1137 RHAIADYR. In 1231 prince Llewelyn of N. Wales af¬ ter burning Montgomery castle to the ground, marched to Rhaiadyr and subject¬ ed it’s castje to the same fate ; not a ves- tage of which remains except the Fosse. The tower or citadel stood in a direct line between the castle and jail, overlooking the river. The mount adjacent still retains the name of Tower-hill. Near the bridge, the dominicans, or black friars, who came into England in 1221, had a religious house, which was supressed, with others in the 31st year of Henry 8th. The Church is a plain, but neat edifice, rebuilt in 1733, and the tower in 17S3. It is a very re¬ spectable structure, built in the form of an oblong square, with a quadrangular .stone tower and turrets. The internal part consists of a nave and chancel. In remote times this town was much more extensive than it is now, and the old church more spacious than the present. Upon Cefn Ceido, about £m. from Rhaiadyr, bearing e-n-f. is a tract of land called Pant yr pg- Iwi/s, where, according to tradition, stood a church, and the borough is said to have extended to that place. The presbyterians and methodistshaveeach a meeting-house. The School is endowed for educating a limited number of poor children. The School-house was built by subscription in the year 1793. The town is governed by a bailiff who is annually elected at the court-leet. It is exempt from the payment of county rates. The inclosed and culti¬ vated land belonging this borough accord¬ ing to a survey made in a.d. 1787, is S7 a. On. 32 p. The uninclosed and uncultivated land is called Maes y dref, Maes Bach, and Wauny cape!, estimated at 90 acres. Part of Maes y dref has at times been inclosed and laid down in tillage, and apportion¬ ed among the householders, paying scot and lot, by a pound rate. The last inclo¬ sure took place a.d. 1775. The great Ses¬ sions for the county were held here. The Jail was upon the spot where now stands the presbyterian chapel. The great iron bars in the windows still remain. The place for the execution of criminals was on the n. end of the town, near a house called Pen y Maes. The County-court was alternately held at New Radnor and Rhai¬ adyr, but was removed from the latter place to the town of Presteign by the 34 and 35 of Henry 8. A woollen manufac¬ tory is carried on here and in the neigh¬ bourhood, in which carding engines and spinning machines are used. The post comes in and returns 3 times a week. A stage coach passes on Mondays and Thurs¬ days through this place on the road from London to Abeystwith during the sum¬ mer. The s. side of Rhaiadyr-bridge affords a very characteristic view of local features. ThC|arch of the bridge is ele¬ gant, and the picturesque line of the river furnishes a most agreeable morceau. Mr. Malkin has given this scene in his erudite 4to, as drawn and engraved by Laporte ; and it occurs also in Ireland’s Wye, taken below the bridge. Over the bridge passes the high road to Aberystyvith. , The principal Inns at this place are the Red- lion, ana Royal-oak, where are post-chais¬ es. Of one of them, [not distinguished] mr. Skrinc says “ tho’ small and rustic, is sufficiently commodious; and what would render any fare agreeable, the civ¬ ilities of the people were native and sin¬ cere. Mr. Lipscomb remarks that Mr. Evans, who keeps the Red-lion Inn, is a sensible, wyll-informed man, who took the pains, with great civility, to correct his orthography of the Welsh names of towns. Mr. Ireland spells Rhaiadyr, Rhai- dr; the river Ithon, Ither ; the Rhyddol, Rydall ; and the name of bishop of Lotha- rmga, he calls Lozinga. At the distance of 7m. n-e. of Rhaiadyr, was a religious house, called Abbey Cum Hir, but now, a heap of ruins. The valley in which it stood is delightful. The hills around appear extremely grand, forming an amphitheatre round it’s rich bottom, wherein this venerable monastery stood. It’s situation upon a fertile bank of the Clcwedog, abounding in beautiful and sublime objects, was exceedingly calcu¬ lated to inspire religious ideas. The hill on the n. 1511 yards high, with a gradual ascent on one side called the Park, former¬ ly 9m. in circumference, and stocked with above 300 deer. An old gate and some pales are still visible, with two founda¬ tions of deer-houses. To the s. is another hill, 1751 yards in height, called Birch - hill, from the great quantity of birch tim¬ ber which nearly covers the side fronting the remains of the abbey. To complete the circle, h r enalt rises on the w., and Beddugreu on the e. According to Leland, Abbey Cwmhir was founded by Cadwal- nolap Madawc, in 1143, for 60 cistercian 1139 RHAL tnouks, but never finished. The remaining walls are very considerable, forming an area of 255 feet by 73. Perhaps the refec¬ tory may be traced, where some apertures appear in the n. side, about 2 feet from the ground. The monks’ habitations are supposed to have been on the n-e. side; probably the same which Leland calls the third unfinished part. Thomas Hodges Fowler, esq. is the present proprietor of Abbey Cwmhir. Besides the specimens of the architecture of this abbey which the tradition of the country says were carried to Llanidloes some mutilated specimens may still be found about the dwelling and and outhouses of the farm, and particular¬ ly about the contiguous chapel, founded by sir William Fowler, in 1680. A small monument appears in this chapel erected to the memory of the late sir Hans Fowler, bart. The church at Llanbister is reported to have been erected with stones purloin¬ ed from this abbey. This has been the case respecting Y Faenor, as appears evident from the building, distant Im. from the former. The most perfect Carneddau in the county of Radnor are near Abbey Cwmhir, and on Gwasledyn hill, near Rhai- adyr. These consist of stones to the amount of 30 or 40 cart loads, thrown down pro¬ miscuously to form a cam, erected by the Britons in commemoration of their hero or chieftain, who fell in battle. These heaps are found in various situations and of dif¬ ferent dimensions; but the largest does not much exceed 60 feet in diameter, and about 7 feet deep in the middle, where the cam is always most protuberant, to con¬ ceal the chest, or stone coffin, which is usually found in this part, covered with a large stone. It freqnently happens that a circular range of large stones are pitched an end on the outside of the heap, while the stones contained within are piled loosely in circles about the tomb, and the interstices filled up with lesser stones. Some of the cams are covered with earth, almost conical, and approach near the form of a tumulus. In many of these earns the stones bear marks of ignition, being re¬ markably red and brittle, by the action of fire, and some are in a great measure vit¬ rified. To a perfect cam there is always a large stone placed endwise, within 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50 yards of it, and such as are without them at present, may have been deprived of them. There is also some ADYR. 1140 distinction to be observed i.e. the tumu¬ lus and earn appearing together, prove that the interred was an ancient chief; while the sepulchres of the commonalty are always found upon the hills, in a small declivity and hollow of an oblong form, with the earth heaped like a small hillock. When these are opened, a stratum of ashes, blackish, or red burnt earth is discovered. A traveller seldom passes over a barren hill in Wales, without perceiving a Gwydd- fa, or Some memorial of the ancient Bri¬ tons.—Evan’s Cambrian Itin. Paine’s Castle is situated in a small ham¬ let of that name, containing some good houses. It is supposed to have received it’s name from Paganus, a Norman who founded the castle. These remains are very inconsiderable, a few loose fragments of the outer walls serve to shew merely that a building once existed. Castell Tinboll, Tibbot, or Timboth, is situated upon a steep hill called Crogen, above the river Ython, in the parish of of Llananna, and 3m. from Abbey Cwm¬ hir. The remnant of this castle consists only of a fragment of a thick wall. The original building was destroyed by Llew. elyn ap Gruffydd, 1260. The road into Cardiganshire maybe taken either circuitously through Cwm Elian, or directly by the turnpike near Llyn Gwyn. Neither can be relinquished without loss. The former is the most en¬ gaging, but ample time is necessary, and it can only be pursued on foot. Keeping along the turnpike road for a short space, a bye path to the 1. leads to the banks of the romantic Elian. By cross¬ ing the fields, the country is better seen- Not far off the Elian joins the Clairwen and the Clarwy, already united. Further in the valley, there is a retired and neat chapel by the road side, not far from a good house. The scene becomes confined, the rocks of slate and limestone rising gradual¬ ly higher. The principal house in Cam- land belongs to Thomas Groves, esq. a Wiltshire gentleman, who purchased 10,000 almost worthless acres, which he is now converting into a paradise. This estate is called Cwm Elian, distant from Rhaiadyr5m., and is the summer residence of the proprietor. The approach to the house is over a handsome wooden bridge, leading to a fine verdant lawn, which stretches from the house, and forms a 1141 RHAIADYR. 1142 curve with the river Elian, uniting a singu¬ lar combination of natural and artificial beauties, of wild scenery and elegant ornament; a foaming river, rugged rocks, precipices, and lofty mountains, contrast¬ ed with rich meadows, neat enclosures, and elegant buildings. In pursuing the Elian'through mr. Groves’s estate, it’s va¬ rious beauties are very striking, particular¬ ly at the distance of a mile from the house, where the pedestrian crosses a rude alpine bridge, formed of the branches of trees, thrown from rock to rock, under which the Elian dashes at the depth of 30 feet. This spot is well described by mr. Bowles, in his poem of “ Coombe Elian.” Indeed the whole of mr. Bowles’s description is so delightful that the editor hopes he will forgive an extract here. The entire piece may be found in the ‘2d vol. of the admira¬ ble poems of this author. “ Strangerif nature charm thee, if thou lov’st to trace her awful steps, in glade or glen, or under covert of the rocking wood, that ways it’s murmuring and mossy boughs above thy head; now, when the wind at times stirs it’s deep silence round thee, and the shower falls on the sighing foliage ; hail her here, in these her haunts.- High o’er thy head, amid the shiver’d slate, behold, a sapling yet, the wild ash bend ( it’s dark red berries clustering, as it wish’d in the clear, liquid mirror, ere it fell, to trace it’s beauties; o’er the prone cascade, airy and light, and elegant, the birch displays it’s glossy stem, amid the gloom of alders and jagg’d fern, and evermore waves her light pensile foliage, as she woo’d the passing gale to whisper flatteries. U pon the adverse bank, wither’d, and strpt of all it’s pleasant leaves, a scathed oak hangs desolate; once sov’reign of the scene. It seems to say, * So shall the spoiler come, the season that shall scatter your fair leaves, gay children of the summer! yet enjoy your pleasant prime, and lift your green heads high, exulting; but the storm will come at last, that shall lay low your strength, and give your pride to the swift hurrying stream of age, like mine!’ Now wind we up the glen, and hear below the dashing torrent, in deep woods conceal’d; and now again, while flashing on the view, a’er the huge craggy fragments.- But loftier scenes invite us; pass the hill, and through the woody hanging, at whose feet the tinkling Elian winds, pursue thy way. Ton bleak and weather-whiten’d rock, immense, upshoots amid the scene, craggy and steep, md like some high-embattl’d citadel, that awes the low plain shadowing. Half way up the purple heath is seen, but bare it’s brow, ind dcep-intrench’d, and all beneath it spread •vith massy fragments riven from it’s top. Amid the crags, and scarce discern’d on high, nangs here and there a sheep, by it’s faint bleat discover’d, while th’astonish’d eye looks up, and marks it on the precipice’s brink pick it’s scant food secure. Now through the wood we steal, and mark the old and mossy oaks, imboss the mountains slope; or the wild ash, with rich red clusters mantling; or the birch in lonely glens light wavering ; till behold the rapid river shooting through the gloom it’s lucid line along; and on it’s side the bordering pastures green, where the swink’dox lies dreaming, heedless of the num’rous flies that, in the transitory sunshine hum round his broad breast; and farther up the cot, with blue light smoke ascending: images of peace and comfort! the wild rocks around endear your smile the more, and the full mind, sliding from scenes of dread magnificence, sinks on your charms reposing: Now cross tiie stream, and up the narrow track that winds along the mountain’s edge, behold the peasant lass ascend: cheerful her look beneath the umbrage of her broad black hat, and loose her dark brown hair; the plodding pad that bears her, pantipg climbs, and with sure step avoids the jutting fragments; she meantime sits unconcern’d, till lessening from the view,, she gains the summit, and is seen no more. Pass on to the hoar cataract,* that foams through the dark fissures of the riven rock ; prone rushing it descends, and with white whisk, save where some silcnlshady pool receives it’s d3sh ; thence bnrsting with collected sweep, and hollow sound, it hurries, till it falls foaming in the wild stream that winds below. Dark trees, which to the mountain’s height ascend, o’ershadc with pendant boughs it’s mossy course, and, looking up, the eye beholds it flash beneath the incumbent gloom, from ledge to ledge shooting it's silvery foam, and far within wreathing it’s curve fantastic. If the harp of deep poetic inspiration, struck at times by the pale minstrel, whilst a strange and beauteous light fill’d his uplifted eye, hath ever sounded into mortal ears, here I might think 1 heard it’s tones, and saw sublime amid the solitary scene, with dimly gleaming harp, and snowy stole, and cheek in momentary phrenzy flush’d, the great musician stand. Hush, every wind that shakes the murm’ring branches! and thou stream, descending still with hollow-sounding sweep, hush! ‘T was the bard struck the loud strings. ‘Arise, son of the magic song, arise, and bid the deep-ton’d lyre pour forth it’s manly melodies; with eyes on fire Caradoc rush’d upon the foe, he rear’d his arm, he laid the mighty low. O’er the plain see he urges his gore-bathed steed t they bleed t the Romans bleedi he lifts his lance on high, they fly! the fierce invaders fly! Fear not now the horse or spear, fear not now the foreman’s might; victory the cry shall hear of those who for their country fight, o’er the slain that strew the plain, stei n on l*er sable war-horse shall she ride, • Nant-Fota. 1143 and lift lirr red right-hand in their heart’s blood deep dyed !’ Return, my muse, the fearful sound is pass’d ; And now a little onward, where the way ascends above the oalts that far below shade the rude steep, let contemplation lead our warjr steps; from thiscloth’d eminence ’t is pleasant, and yet fearful, to look down upon the river roaring, and far off tb see it stretch in peace, and mark the rocks one after one, in solemn majesty unfolding their wild reaches; here with wood mantled, beyond abrupt and bare, and each as if it strove with emulous disdain to tow’r in ruder, darker amplitude. Pause, ere vke enter the long craggy vale; it seems the abode of Solitude. So high the rock’s bleak summit* frowns above our head, looking immediate down, we almost fear lest some enormous fragment should descend ■with hideous sweep into the vale, and crush the intruding visitant; no sound is here, save of the stream that shrills, and now and thdn a cry as of faint wailing, when the kite comes sailing o’er the crags, or straggling lamb bleats for it’s mother.- Scenes of retir’d sublimity that fill with fearful ecstacy. and holy trance, the pausing mind I We leave your awful gloom, and lot the foot-way plank, that leads across the narrow torrent, foaming through the chasm below; the rugged stones are wash’d and worn into a thousand shapes, and hollows scoop’d by long attrition of the ceaseless surge, smooth, deep, and polish’d as the marble urn, in their hard forms. Here let us sit, and watch the struggling current burst it’s headlong way, hearing the noise it makes, and musing much on the strange changes of this nether world, llow many ages must have swept to dust the still succeeding multitudes, that “ fret their little hour,” upon this restless scene, or ere the sweeping waters could have cut the solid rock so deep.- Rut lo I upon the hilly croft, and scarce distinguish’d from the crags, the peasant hut forth peeping; nor unwelcome is the sight; it seems to say, ‘ Tho’ solitude be sweet, and sweet are all the images that float like summer-clouds before the eye, and charm the pensive wanderer’s way, ’t is sweeter yet to think that in this world a brother lives. -Yet would I hail the steps of culture, which ascend the precipice’s side. She bids the wild to bloom; adorns with beauty not it’s own, the ridged mountain tract; she speaks, and lo! the yellow harvest nods upon the slope; and through the dark and matted moss upsiiools the bursting clover, smiling to the sun. These are thine offspring, Culture ! the green herb is thine, that decks with rich luxuriance the pasture’s lawny range; the yellow corn, that waves upon the upland ridge is thine; thine too the elegant abode, which smiles amid the rocky scene, and wakes the thought, the tender thought, of all life’s charities. * Dole Finoc rock. There is no longer a worn path to lead to the great road. A guide is necessary in this route, to whom the traveller must trust. U44 The direct road ascends by a long and steep pitch of 2 m. into a bold and hilly re¬ gion, disparted by precipices, with moun¬ tain rising above mountain. The Wye in it’s infancy, forms a predpminent feature on the r. By deviating across the heath, to the 1. may be gained a view of Llyn Gwyn, an eminently picturesque lake. Be¬ yond is an immense reach of the Wye. On returning to the road the Wye above be¬ comes the object. After another ascent of a mile, we view the innumerable moun¬ tains of Cardiganshire, enlivened only by the purple heath. The road then lies down a precipitous descent; finding the Elian in the bottom. It is here that the more in¬ trepid traveller may meet the less adven¬ turous of his party who have taken the di¬ rect high road, or his horses and servants, if so happily accommodated. Here the 3 counties meet. The road to Hafod is distant from this point 9m. upon terraces, hanging on the sides of mountains, across a most wild and barren tract. The Elian here mixes with the scene of desolation and becomes a mere brook, where it is crossed near it’s source. The mountains on the 1 . are rugged, and overspread with treacherous bogs. Anon the traveller finds himself impending over the Ystwidd, at the height of full 260 feet. An insulated mountain terminating in a craggy preci¬ pice, rises abruptly from the bed of the river, to the height, it is said, of 220 yards. On descending, the traveller instead of en¬ tering upon a more level country finds himself at the base of Plinlimmon. There is an elegant stone bridge over the Yst¬ widd, built for public accommodation, by Baldwyn of Bath, at the expense of mr. Johnes. The lead mines of Cwm Istwidd lie on the r. of the river Ystwidd, and their en¬ trance is just above the road. “Beyond the lead mines,” says mf. Malkin, “ the smoothness of the road, a narrow stripe of cultivation by the Ystwidd, on which, however poor, the bewildered eye fixes as a resting place, a hill in front, crowned with the novel ornament of a plantation, bespeak the approach to objects more cheerful, to a scene of brilliant enchant¬ ment, prepared behind the shifting caverns and magic-struck abodes, which seem on¬ ly placed there to heighten the effect, and be withdrawn. I do not know that I was ever sensible of more pleasure or relief, RHAIAipYlt. 1115 RHAIADYR. 11-16 than on the unexpected sight of that woody hill, at my first visit. The road turning suddenly to the r. leads up to Pentre Bru- nani Inn, one of the most wretched and destitute imaginable, in a situation which challenges the residence of a nobleman ; yet are the attractions of the vicinity such, that many parties are induced to bear with the privations of the place for days to¬ gether, while they explore sometimes the wild, and sometimes the cultivated, beau¬ ties surrounding them. The entrance to Hafod, by this approach is at the shep¬ herd’s cot, on the hill to the s. The descent by the foot-path from Pentre Brunant Inn is steep and romantic. The foot bridge a- cross the stream affords a scene of pictu¬ resque and entangled wildness.” fSee col. 563.J From Rhaiadyr, mr. Skrine proceeded towards Pemjbont, at which little obscure hamlet, he crossed the Ithon and pursu¬ ing a rugged track over a wild range of hills, he entered a deep romantic vale, through which the Teme winds. “Great and memorable,” says this author, “ are the remains of antiquity to be found in this district; the camp of Caractacus being yet in high preservation upon the hills to¬ wards Clan, and thatol Ccesar may easily be traced upon an eminence impending over the valley. Offa’s Dyke also passes by Knighton, extending from the mouth of the Dee, in a slanting direction across the kingdom. In this vale stands Brampton Brian, an old seat of the Oxford family, once surrounded by fine woods ; but the ruthless ax has despoiled it of these sylvan honours, [sec 855.] He then reached Presteicn. To Aberystwith cross the Wye, the course of which is through Buillt, Hay, Hereford, &c. to Pentre briwnantinn, in Cum Istwith, I4jm. 2m. w. of the road, is Jthydohlog, John Oliver, esq. From Cwm Istuiith, Hafod lies 2m. on the 1. and Pont y Monach, 4m. (2m. beyond Cwm Ist¬ with, on the r. the road diverges to this place.) Picadilly, 13£m. (lm on thel. Nan- teos, T. Powell, esq.) Aberystwith, lm. 7f. in all 29m. 5f. The road hence to Pont y Monach, exhibits a scene which will forcibly ar¬ rest the attention of the stranger. For the first 3m. there is a continued ascent, [A new road, to avoid the labour of ascending this hill (Cvvmtoyddwr), has been project¬ ed ; and it is now open for the purpose of travelling, to the extent of 7m. through a picturesque and romantic vale.] but the trouble of gaining the summit is amply compensated by the charming scene which constantly presents itself, on turning round to observe the country which is left be¬ hind, where the town of Rhaiadyr, and Vaga’s lovely stream, winding through a fertile vale below it, combine to form a landscape of the most inexpressible beau¬ ty. From the top we are presented with a contrast that is really awful: the wind¬ ing road, after a descent into the valley of about lm. hangs on the shelving sides of steep, smooth, and lofty mountains, well cloathed with verdure, spotted with flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle; and these sometimes at such a giddy “ height that makes one dread, lest the unsure ground should slide beneath their feet, and send them down a living ruin to the deeps be¬ low.” This scenery continues for some miles through the valley, with only now and then the intervention of a shepherd’s cot, till a short turn of the road unexpect¬ edly leads over a handsome modern stone bridge, which pleases the stranger in a de¬ gree proportioned to his surprise at meeting abruptly with so elegant an accommoda¬ tion, in the midst of a district frightfully barren and bewildered. The road now winds under craggy precipices, and passes close to some old mines of lead ore : this too, is no small novelty in so dreary a spot; but all seems in unison, for the engine- wheel and the other apparatus used in the process, bear evident marksof having been constructed when mechanics were in an infant state, and are consequently suscept¬ ible of great improvement. “ The dingy scrofa, impending above the high road choaks the river into which it falls, and which now runs broad and shallow through the vale, exhibiting to the admiring spec¬ tator the magnitude of the excavations in¬ to the bowels of the rock, while the pow¬ der-blasted gloomy crags, that scowlabovfe the aperture, convey no bad idea of the sul¬ phureous soil of Milton’s nether world.” There arc a few cottages erected for the workmen at this place, so that they are nearly secluded from the world, and run little risk of having their morals contami¬ nated [by an intercourse with the vicious. The curious observer, who has never be¬ fore seen a similar work, will be highly 1147 RHAIADYR. gratified in examining the various forms in which the ore is found in it’s native ele¬ ment, and he will probably be surprised at the appearance and dimensions of the shaft, through which, the miners say they have completely perforated the mountain, and have formed an accessible subterra¬ neous passage all the way. From these mines the road continues through the glen a short way further, when, winding round the mountain on the r. “ the crisped heads of Hafod’s woods, break suddenly into view. To the r. the road to Abcrystwith ascends the verdant hills; below them, the little church of Eglwys Newydd pre¬ sents it’s modest front, half buried in oaks, seated on a little knoll; in front, the woody valley, with the Ystwith in it’s bottom, opens before us, crowned on the 1. with sloping lofty hills; while, in the midst, a smooth mound, half concealed with oaks, yises among the shades, and seems design¬ ed by nature as acentre.” Just below the spot whence this view is taken, stands an inn, with a few cottages, called Pcntrcf, or more commonly known by the name of Cicm Ystwith, in which parish it is situated. This is the mid-way betweeu Rhaiadyr and Abcrystwith, being exactly 15m. from each; and is the only public-house upon that road where any sort of accommoda¬ tions can be met with, except at the Hafod Arms, 3m. further. Pursuing the post¬ road from Cwm-Ystwith, the line of which is to the r. of Hafod, a small rise leads to the summit of a chain of mountains of considerable extent, whose tops end in so many irregular and various shapes, and form so undulating an horizon, that a warm imagination might almost conceive, that the mountains were impelled and dri¬ ven on by a supernatural storm, in im¬ mense waves, and broken swells. These scenes serve as a prelude to the expecta¬ tion of the stranger, in approaching Pont y Monach, where, if he has travelled a long and dreary stage, he will meet with comfortable refreshment at the Hafod- Arms, a neat and pleasant inn, fitted up on a small, but genteel scale, and affording Such accommodation of good beds and hospitable entertainment as can scarcely be expected tn so remote a situation. To Hafod, 17 miles, Malkin ; Warner’s 1st and 2d walks; Lipscomb. — Piestcign; from an excursion to Caractacus’S camp, upon the Iiills towards Clun; thence RHUDDLAN. V148 down the vale of Tern* to Knighton, Skrine. — Aberystwith, 29§ mile#. — Radnor, 20 miles. — ; Llandrindod, 8milcsi — Pont y Monach, IS miles. — Llandiloes, 13 miles. — Buaillt, 13J miles. From St. Asaph, 5 miles, Bingley; Warner. - Abergeley, 6 miles, Skrine. - Diserth, 2^ miles, Pennant. RHUDDLAN, in Flintshire, lies in a flat, on the e. bank of the river Chvyd, a- bout 2m. from it’s influx into the sea. It is here so wide as to allow flat vessels of about 20 tons burden to pass up as high as the bridge. Tho’ now a very insignificant village, Rhuddlan was once a place of great importance, of which however no trace is left, except the ruins of it’s castle. From a port about 2m. from this place, where the river discharges itself into the sea, much corn and timber are annually export¬ ed. The population of this parish in 1801 amounted to 594. The Fairs are held Feb. 2, Mar. 25, Sep. 8. The burgesses con- tribute towards electing a member for the borough of Flint: those who are qualified inhabit the place, and that part of the par. ish called Rhuddlan Franchise, which ex¬ tends above lm. from this place. Below the town is a large marsh, called Morfa Rhuddlan, the marsh of Rhuddlan, where, in 795, was fought a dreadful battle be¬ twixt the Welsh, under their leader Cara- doc, and the Saxon forces under Offa king of Mercia. The Welsh were routed and their commander slain ; in addition to this severe loss, the saxon prince cruelly or¬ dered all the men and children, who urn fortunately fell into his hands to be mas sacred, the women only escaping his futy The memory of this tragical event has beer brought down to posterity in a ballad call¬ ed Morfa Rhuddlan, the air of which i: most tenderly plaintive. This commor lying near the town, between St. Asapl and the sea, contains about 27,000 acres of a rich sandy loam; whereof 500 acre were appointed by an act of enclosure t< be sold towards defraying the expenses o securing the whole marsh, by an embank ment, from the encroachments of the sea which committed some ravages on Tywy\ Abergeleu, a neighbouring waste. The eir bankment is to be nearly 8m. in lengtl and of various dimensions, according t H49 RHUDDLAN, ROSS. 1150 he force of the tide. In August 1799, a- 30 Ut lfm.of it had been completed, in the ■nost difficult part, measuring 80 feet at he base, 7 feet at the top and 8 feet deep. Some parts of the allotment sell for 30 1. an rcre, and some for 3 51. The Castle is if red stone, nearly square, having six towers, two at each of two opposite cor¬ ners, and only one at each of the others. Three of them on the n-w. side, remain olerably entire. It had a double ditch on the n., and a strong wall and foss all ound. In this wall is a tower still stand- ng, called Twr y Silod, orTwry Brennin. The principal entrance was from the n-w. jetween two rounders. Opposite to these ire two very much shattered, but the re- nainder are tolerably entire. Powell and Camden say it was built by Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt, at the commencement of the 11th tentury, who made it his place of resi¬ dence ; others say it was built by Robert le Rodelent, but soon after burnt by Gruf- fydd ay Cynan, prince of Wales. Henry 2 , subsequently rebuilt or fortified this :astle, in which Giraldus Cambriensis says he was nobly entertained. Queen Eleanor was also delivered of a princess here in 1283. Northumberland seized it’s castle in 1399, previous to the deposition of Richard 2, who dined here on his way to Flint castle. In Archaelogia, p. 32, is a copy of the Roll of the expenses of Ed¬ ward 1, at Rhuddlan castle, in the 10th and 11 th years of his reign. At a private house in this village is shewn part of the building where Edward 1st held the par¬ liament which passed the statute of Rhu- ddlau, about 1284. Of this place only one solitary gothic window remains. There is another old house on the n. side of the castle, where tradition says the king re¬ sided. It is at present the property of the crown. During the civil war in the time of Charles 1, Rhuddlan castle was occu¬ pied by the royalists, but after a short seige the garrison surrendered to general Mytton, July 1646; in the following De¬ cember it was dismantled by order of par¬ liament. To the s. of the castle is shewn a mount, called Tut-hill, whence it is said the castle was battered; but it appears a more ancient fortification, sur¬ rounded by a deep ditch, including the Abbey. Not far distant once stood a house of Black Friars, founded some time before 1268. The bridge at this place consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595, with an impression of the arms of Hughes, bp. of St. Asaph, upon one of the battlements. The river Clwyd is navigable up to this place, and at it’s month is the Port, at the Verryd, where small vessels lie to take in corn, timber, and other produce. The tide flows as high as the bridge, and admits boats of about 70 tons burden, called flats, up to the quay. The church has nothing remarkable about it, except an ancient grave-stone, with a flowery cross and sword. A little beyond the priory, mr. Pennant descended the bank, and fording the Clwyd, soon reached St. Asaph; in which approach the handsome extensive bridge, the little town, and the cathedral mixed with trees, form a most agreeable view. To Aberceley there is a bridle cause¬ way 5m. in length,across Morfa Rhuddlan. To Conwy Fep.ry the road lies princi¬ pally over the hills, commanding fine sea prospects, till the mountain of Penmaenross occurs, in winding round which, the mag¬ nificent ruin of Conwy Castle breaks into sight, backed by the vast mountains of Caernarvonshire. Instead of crossing the Ferry, mr. Skrine proceeded I2m. further along the bank of the Conwy to Llanrwst. On the r. of the road from Rhuddlan to Diserth lies Bodryddan, the residence of the dean of St. Asaph. Plants. In the church-yard grow Sal¬ via verbenaca, and Ancthum fceniculum. In Rhuddlan marsh, Rotbollia incurvata; in ditches, Potamogeton gramineum ; in ditches on the n-w. side, Lemna gibba ; about this marsh and on sand-banks near the shore, Arunda arenaria. On hedge banks betwixt and the sea, near the stone house, Lepidium latifolium. In a salt-wa¬ ter ditch by the road side leading to St. Asaph, Aster tripolium. ToConwy-Ferry, 16 miles, Skrine. — St. Asaph, 5 miles, Pennant. — Diserth, miles, Bingley. Mr Gilpin begins his description of the Wye at Ross. See also Wye. Prom Goodrich Castle, 4 miles, Barber. - Newnham, 9 miles, Skrine. - Hereford, 14£ miles, Lipscomb. ROSS is the central town between Glo- cester, Hereford, Monmouth, and Led¬ bury. In 1801 this place contained 533 1152 1151 no houses, and '2347 inhabitants. The bold irregularities of ground, and the strong fertility of soil, so congenial to the growth of oak and culture of orcharding, have contributed to render the approach to this place extremely gratifying. De¬ scending the main street, within a few yards of it’s lower extremity, and there ascending the banks, a copious stream forms in view a spacious canal. Adjoin¬ ing the church-yard, a terrace of very con¬ siderable altitude, seems almost to over¬ hang the river Wye, which wantons be¬ low in a variety of pleasing sweeps; stretching intoa fine semicircle, with each of it’s extremities uniformly reverted, im¬ mediately under the eye, in a most luxu¬ riant vale, embellished, among other ob¬ jects, with the castles of Wilton and Brid- stow, and terminated in the distance by the mountains of Pembrokeshire. The most striking objects in the town is the Market-house built in the worst style of saxon architecture, in the reign of James 1, by John Abel, who erected a similar building at Hereford. At it’s w. er.d is a bust of Charles 2, badly preserved, in whose reign it was erected. But the great¬ est boast of this town, is the honour of having produced that pattern of benevo¬ lence, John Kyrle, esq. characterized by Pope, and invested with deathless fame under the title of the Man of Ross. John Kyrle , was born at Whitehousc, in the par¬ ish of Dymock, in the county of Hereford, in 1637, served the office of sheriff for the county in 1633, and died in 1724. From an income of only 500/. a year, this good man appears to have derived happiness and to have diffused innumerable benefits to those around him. Rise, honest muse ! and sing the Man of Ross: pleas’d Vaga echoes through her winding bounds, and rapid Severn hoarse applause resounds. Who hung with woods yon mountain’s sultry brow ? ftom the dry rock who bade the waters (low ? not to the skies in useless c olumns tost, or in proud falls magnificently lost, but clear, and artless, pouring thro’ the plain health to the sick, and solace to the swain. Whose causeway parts the vale with shady rows ? whose seats the weary traveller repose? who taught that heaven-directed spire to rise ? “ The Man of Ross,” each lisping babe replies. Behold the market-place, with poor o’erspread! The man of Ross divides the weekly bread : lve feeds yon alms house, neat, but void of state, where Age and Want sit smiling at the gate: him portion’d maids, apprentic’d orphans, blest; the young who labour, and the old. who rest. Is any sick f the Man of Ross relieves, prescribes, intends, the med’eine makes and give3, Is there a variance ? enter but his door, baulk’d are the courts, and contest is no more: despairing quacks with curses fled the place, and vile attornies, now an useless race. Thrice happy man ! enabled to pursue what all so wish, but want the power to do I Oh 1 say what sums that gen’rous hand supply f what mines to swell that bouundless charity ? Of debts and taxes, wife and children clear, this man possess’d—five hundred pounds a year. Blush, grandeur, blush! proud courts withdraw your blaze; ye little stars! hide your diminish’d rays. And what? no monument, inscription, stone, his race, his form, his name, almost unknown? Who builds a church to God,and not to Fame, will never mark the marble with his name. Go! search it there, where to be born and die of rich and poor makes all the history; enough that virtue fill’d the space between, prove by the ends of being to have been. In 1776 a neat mural tablet was erected to the memory of Kyrle, in the chancel of the church, for which 300/. was bequeath¬ ed by lady Kinnoul,whose property de vol v- cd to colonel Money. A portrait of Kyrle evidently by sir Peter Lely was in the pos¬ session of Philip Jones, esq. who married a descendant of the Man of Ross. Another was at the King’s-arms Inn, formerly the residence of John Kyrle. His ordinary mode of dress is said to be very plain. Salmon used frequently to be sold at Ross for 2grf. per pound. Before the wears were put upon this river, fish were so plenti¬ ful that apprentices had a clause inserted in their indentures that they should not eat it more than 3 days a week. The DIRECT ROAD TO GoODRICH-FERRY, is a retired and pleasantride of little more than 2m. in a s. direction. For a few paces ftom the town, the road veers rather to the 1. leaving that which leads to Monmouth on the r. it is afterwards direct. At the distance of about 2m. from Ross, upon an eminence on the r. stands a handsome mansion called Hill-court, the residence of mrs. Clarke. From the spot before the gate of the pleasure-grounds Goodrich castle is seen upon an eminence, graceful¬ ly clothed with wood. On a nearer ap¬ proach, the majesty of the castle upon it’s rocky precipice strikes the observer with an idea of awful grandeur! The ferry- house upon the opposite side, the landlord of which is a basket-maker, affords whole¬ some refreshment, a guide to the castle, and a pleasure-boat. Previous to crossing the water it would be well worth the time 1153 ROSS. 1154 md trouble to walk along the meadows, up the stream §m. whence may be seen the elevation and aspect of the castle on the s-s-e. bank of the Wye, standing upon the extremity of it’s own promontory, the river winding gracefully in a serpentine lirection, until it sweeps along it’s base, ind retires by that of Copped-wood Hill. On the approach to Ross from Ledbury, he large and towering wood of Penyard las a most grand and striking appear- mce; and it probably is alluded to by Pope n his account of the Man of Ross, when le says, “ Who hung with wood yon sul- ry mountain’s brow ?” Dr. Booker, in lis poem of “ Malvern,” says that it is :ertain the index or hand, attached to the iummer-house in Kyrle’s Walks, and on vhich were painted these words : Si ion tibi non ibi, pointed to this wood, ■’enyard is the property of William Part- idge, esq. of Goodrich. In a remote and •etired part of the wood are the ruins of a rastle, or with more probability, from their etired situation, a monastery. On approaching on the Hereford road, o Ross, across a vale of rich meadows, he fine ruins of I Villon Castle are seen, With a stone bridge of masterly architec- ure. From this spot an ancient causeway leads to the base of a rocky eminence, up- >n the brow of which the Man of Ross’s •valk presents itself. This walk was made rom Ross by mr. Kyrle, to what he called lis farm. It commands a beautiful view if the devious windings of the river be- leatli, and Wilton-castle, bridge, &c. up- in the opposite shore. The broad road rom the causeway continues in a graceful sweep, ascending to the opposite side of the hill, entering the w. end of the town. The massy group of dark elms upon the summit, form a venerable base to the tow¬ er of the church. The waving woods of Penyard park and chase, rise above the rest, enriching the closing scenery. About 3m. to the e. from Ross, and near¬ ly lm. to the s.of the road leading toGlo- cester, is Ruse, or May or Bury Hill, [Hoare says Bolilree ] the undoubted site of a roman station, the Ariconium of An¬ toninus, which Camden, and other anti¬ quaries, hqvc placed at Kenchester; but which Horseley, on unquestionable grounds, removes, to the neighbourhood bf Ross. Traversing a well cultivated listrict, where numerous gentle hills arc 38 clothed with apple orchards, at the distance of 6m. over a bad road, a heathy eminence is gained, whence the great plain of Glo- cester appears, stretching to an immense distance, in every direction. At the ex¬ tremity of this plain seems to rise the towers and spires of Glocester, faintly dis¬ tinguished from the Cotteswold hills, the high continuous summits of which are strongly contrasted by the broken form of the Malvern hills far distant on the left. From Ross mr. Skrine determined to take the navigation of the Wye to Mon¬ mouth and Chepstow ; and having obtain¬ ed a good covered boat, well stored with provisions, he set out on this most inter¬ esting voyage, which afforded an infinite variety of the picturesque, the pleasing, the tremendous, and sublime of nature. “ To do justice,” says he, “ to the attrac¬ tions which captivate the senses in this excursion would require the pencil of a Gilpin or a Claude, and the descriptive fire of Rousseau.” Two guineas is the stated price for this navigation ; but besides this the boatmen, 3 in number, expect a farther compliment. Other travellers say the expense is 3 guineas, the charge being the same to one person as to a party. The ride from Ross to Monmouth is unques¬ tionably only second to that from Amble, side to Keswick, in Cumberland. On the turnpike road to Monmouth cross the Wye to Wilton, lm. (on the r. is the road to Hereford, 13j.) Upper Wear, If. Lower Wear, 5f to Pencraig, lm. 3f. Good¬ rich Cross, 1 m. If. (on the 1. is the residence of W. Foskett, esq. and the remains of an ancient castle.) to Old Ford, across the river Luke, the course of which on the l. is to the Wye, 4m. Whitchurch, W. Grove, esq. and col. Molyneaux, lm. If. Genarew and church, lm. 1 f. Di.vlon and Church, lm. 7f. Monmouth, lm. in the whole 10m. 3f. The ride over Wilton bridge is beautiful. Was not the approach to Goodrich Castle by water too interesting to be given up, parties taking the tour down the Wye, would see the country to a much greater advantage, if they sent the boats on to Ross, pursued this road, and embarked at Goodrich, there being no variety or object worthy of notice for near¬ ly 4m. after passing Wilton Castle. At Pencraig Hill an uncommonly fine land¬ scape opens. The Wye appears meander¬ ing along the vale, Goodrich Castle on the 1165 RUA130N. 1156 r. with an extent of hill, vale, wood, and water, that baffles description. The cas¬ tles of Willon and Goodrich should be visited the first day sleeping at Mon¬ mouth; the next day Tintern abbey, and Chepstow. To Monmouth, upon the Wye, 25 miles, Gilpin; Skrinc. — Monmouth, the turnpike-road, 10^ miles. — Glocester, 1 (it miles, Barber. — Goodrich Castle, 4 miles. — Ledbury, 13 miles. From Wrexham, 5 miles, Wyndham. - Chirk, miles, Skrine; Bingley. ■- Llangollen, 7 miles, Pennant; Gilpin. RUABQN, or Rhi\y abon, a village in the hundred of Bromliejd, Denbighshire, is pleasantly situated upon vising ground. The Church is a good building, ip which is an organ given by the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynne. Here are several mar¬ ble monuments, which deserve qoti.ee. One to the memory of the first sir Watkin Williams Wynne, of whom a fall from his horse deprived the world of a valuable citizen, on the 26th of Sep. 1749, aged 4l years. Ryshrack has preserved his figure in a gracetul attitude; clad in a loose robe and his hands outspread as if in the act of addressing an assembly. On one side is the likeness of his son, and on the other that of his daughter, both kneeling, their hands placed upon their breasts, and the late dr. King of St. Mary’s-hill, has thus expressed the qualities of his mind. adsertori libertatis publics. Jl. S. E. WATKIN WILLIAMS WYNN, BARONETTUS. Qui ab illustri Britannorum veterum stirpe ori undos, majoribus suis sc dignissimum semper prsebuit, et non modo nomine, sed virtute et fide hominem vere Britan- num. Admodum juvenis in senatumelec- tus confestim cunetis innotuit gravitate et judicio : Postquarn vero et ipse de repub- lica ccepit disputare, et libertatis patro- cinium ac defensionem suscipere, incredi- bilem animi magnitudinem, atque ejus constantiam omnes ita suspexcrunt, ut, cum senatus princeps, turn patriae pater merito haberetur. Tam rectis studiis et ea singulari bonitate fuit paediius, ut non posset, fieri, quin maximam sibi gratiam et venerationem compararet vir innocen- tissimus, idemque prudentissimus pater¬ familias, continentissimus maritus, benig- nissimus hospes, optimus literarum pat- ronus, et assidnns Dei ct Christianas veri- tatis cultor. Ad hxc qu3m suavis et ju- cundus fuit in convictu ! Quanta tides ejus sermonibus! Qualis in ore probatis ct decor ! Quae mens* reverentia ! Quae in cultu moderato ! Quae in omni vita mode9- tia, elegantia, comitas, Uberalitas! Talis tantique viri immaturo interim quam grave damnum fecit Britannia; quum cuncti qni ejus virtutes cognoverint (cog¬ novit penitus qui haec moerens scripsit) eoerepto, miserorum omnium perfugium, bonorum omnium delicias, doctorum om. nium presidium, Walliae suae decus et ornamentum, et clarissimum reipublicae lumen ereptupn et extinctum esse fatean- tur! TRANSLATION. “ Here lies interred Sir Watkin Williams Wynne, bart. who descended from an il¬ lustrious family of ancient Britons, was himself most worthy of his ancestors, not only in name but in virtue and integrity. Tho’ elected into parliament at a very ear¬ ly period of his youth, the dignity of his behaviour and maturity of his judgment were immediately distinguished. When afterwards he engaged in debates of na¬ tional importance, and when he undertook the patronage and defence of liberty, the amazing greatness and constancy of his soul was so much revered by all, that he was valued both as a leader in the senate and as the father of his country. With such just principles and goodness was he en¬ dowed, as could not but excite in every one the profonndest veneration and sincere regard for him whose innocency of life was much distinguished, whose economy was most prudent, whose faith to the mar¬ riage bed most inviolate, whose hospitality was most liberal; a patron to learning, constant in his devotions to the Deity, and a warm professor of Christian truths. Yet more ; how engaging and cheerful was he in society ! what sincerity in his conversa¬ tions ! What an open and becoming hon¬ esty in his countenance ! what decency a bistable! what moderation in his dress! what modesty, elegancy, affability, and generosity in his whole character! how heavy was the loss sustained by the un¬ timely death of so good and so great a man, when all who knew his virtues (well did the weeping author of this inscription know them) must confess that when lie 1158 1157 RUABON. was torn from us, the refuge of the dis- up by Caradoc of Llancarfan, with a con- tressed, the delight of the good, the pro- donation by Humphrey' Llwyd, was a na- tector of the learned, the ornament and tive and held the vicarage of this place, to honour of his native Wales was lost and which he was instituted in the year 1571. extinguished in him.” This monument to He edited the works of Giraldus and sub- the memory ofthe late sir Watkin Williams joined annotations. He published also a Wynne, bart. and another to his wife lady treatise, entitled “De Britannica Historia Henrietta W. W. by Nollekins, prove that recte intelligenda,” and dying in 1590. left the art of sculpture maintains considerable for posterity a large collection of welsh importance in this kingdom. The latter manuscripts. He was interred here, a small represents that amiable female in the char- mural monument marking the spot, acter of Hope, standing and reclining her At this place is a comfortable Inn, whence elbow upon an urn, with the accompani- the park gate of Wynnstay, the seat of sir ment of an, anchor. The features, the atti- Watkin Williams Wynne, bart. is seen; tude, and the drapery, are exquisitely fine, and, with permission, the traveller may The figure is placed upon a pedesial in the examine it’s varied and magnificent im- shape of a roman altar upon which is the provements. The avenue is formed of following inscription. “Sacred to the oaks, elms, beeches, chesnuts, and planes, memory of the right honourable Lady Hen- which extend Im. One oak, called the rietta Williams Wynne, (third daughter of King, measures 30 feet in circumference. Charles Duke of Beaufort and Elizabeth A carriage road leads into a spacious lawn his wife, daughter of John Berkeley of upon which stands Wynnstay Hall. This Stoke, in G locestershire, esq.) Born Mar. house has little of elegance in it’s exterior, '26, 1748; married to sir W. W. Wynne, owing to having been erected dt different bart. April 13, and died July 24, 1769, times and in different styles of architee- aged 21 years.” A mural monument for ture. The interior of the new part con- Henry Wynne, esq. 10th son of sir John tains severalspaciousapartments, in which Wynne of Gwydir, who died in 1671, re- are some good portraits of the Wynnes, the presents a personage clad in a full bottom- Williamses, the Seymours, &c, A head cd coat, short skirts, vvitli square-toed of sir Richard Wynne, gentleman of the' boots in the attitude of fanatical grimace, bed chamber to Charles 2, byVandyck is : Two accompanying figures, sir John much admired. A half-lerigth figure of Wynne; of Wynnstay, bart. and Jane his the last sir John VVynne, by Godfrey Knel- wife, both in a supplicating posture, are ler, bears strong marks of slovenliness, badly executed. Sir John Wynne, son of and reminds us of Walpole’s remark, that the before-mentioned sir John Wynne, lies “ where he offered one picture to fame, he beneath, with his wife the heiress of Wat- sacrificed 20 to lucre.” An engraving stay. He died at the age of 91, in theyear from tins is in Yorke’s “Royal Tribes.” 1718. The living of Ruabon isavicarage, Adjoiningthehouseisaneatsmall building the bishop of St. Asaph, patron. In 1801 fitted up as a theatre, by the late proprietor the population ofthe parish was 4483. The and opened for a week during the christ- Market is on Monday, the Fairs are the mas holidays in every year. The present last Friday in February, May 22, and Nov. owner has divested the room of it’s Thes- 20. The petty Sessions for the. division of pian ornaments and appropriated it for Ruabon are held here. In a chapel on the an annual agricultural meeting as an auxi-i s. side of the communion table is an altar liary to the society at Wrexlram. Ad an- tomb, upon which lie 2 recumbent figures, nual show of cattle is held at Wynnstay, 1 one represents a man clad in armour, a where premiums are adjudged, for (he best helmet supporting his head ; with a collar of every species of stock, for ploughing the marked S.S.; the other a female resting greatest number of acres with 2 horses a upon a mantle. Round the edge of the breast, without a driver, ice. This agres- sarcophagus, a latin inscription indicates tian fete is held in the month of Septem- that these commemorate John ap Elis Ey- ber, when a numerous and respectable as- ton, esq. who died in 1526, and Elizabeth semblage of practical agriculturists attend. Calfley, his wife, who died in 1524. i From 5-to 700 visitors have the honour of Dr. David Powell, who translated into Eng- dining with sir Watkin, and others at the lish the History of Wales originally drawn same time partake of the liberal hospitali- 1159 RUABON. 1160 ty of his house. This place was ancient¬ ly the residence of Madoc ap Gryffydd Maelor, lord of Bromfield and founder of Valle Crucis Abbey. The Park, from a portion of the ancient rampire called Watts Dyke running through this part of the estate, was denominated Watstay ; but when the heiress of the property, a daugh¬ ter of Eyton Evans, married sir John Wynne, the new proprietor enclosed the grounds with a lofty stone wall in 167S, forming them into a park Sm. in circum¬ ference, the name was changed to fVyntt- stay. Tho’ the surface of the ground is not greatly diversified, yet being well wood¬ ed, and aided much by the interposition of art, the spot possesses advantages which render it delightful. Both the near and distant views are distinct, and extremely fine, especially towards the Berwyn chain of mountains, with the grand breach in it beyond Llangollen, through which rolls the rapid Dee. The latest improvements are the baths, the new plantations, and a fine sheet of water. Under the direction of John Evans, esq. of Llewenygroes , (who published a nine sheets map of N. Wales, made from actual surveys) the waters of the small brook Belan, and some other rills, were so united as to form a consid¬ erable torrent, dashing over artificial rock- work, covered with moss and lichens, as¬ suming the appearance of a natural cas¬ cade, similar to one in the marquiss of Lansdown’s park at Caine. Hence the stream winds through the Bath or Belan grounds forming the beautiful lake, now skirted with lofty woods, where formerly some stinted hawthorns were almost the sole possessors of the soil. To those who can remember it’s then rude and rugged state, the change must appear the work of some potent enchanter, whose only spells, however, were industry and mu¬ nificence, guided by the faculty of taste. See the Bees, a poem, by dr. Evans, son of the topographic surveyor; printed at Shrewsbury, in 1806. To this park trees of a large size were brought by adequate machinery, from a considerable distance, without regard to their size or the season of the year. One precaution only was re¬ garded, to bring with the tree as much as possible of the surrounding earth. Similar experiments have succeeded by'tnr. Rich¬ ardson, at Brierley, near Bradforth, York¬ shire, and by mr. Smith, at Stoke-park. Wilts. A herd of buffaloes, some Chinese cattle, and pigs rough with curled hair, have been frequently seen in the park. The principal features of this domain are the lake, surrounded by a semicircular amphi¬ theatre ofwood, and terminated by the Col¬ umn, seen from a seat near the rustic bridge; [Near this bridge is a hawthorn measuring 6 feet in girth, at 5 feet from the ground.] the sequestered retreat of the marble Bath, supplied by 2 lion-head fountains; the smooth lawn, affording varied glimpses of the water, animated by numerous wild fowl; a gothic seat upon an eminence well disposed to display the objects of wa¬ ter, lawns, interspersed with stately tim- ber-trees, and, at the end of the vale, the tower of Ruabon church; the vista of the waterfall, beyond which appear forest a- bove forest, to the more distant mountains. The column is 100 feet high, the base 16, built with free stone. Round the entab¬ lature is a gallery with a circular iron balustrade, 9 feet high, in the centre of which stands a handsome urn in bronze. The plinth is wreathed with oak leaves descending from the beaks of eagles. A door opens, and a well staircase leads to a gallery upon the top, whence is an ex¬ tensive prospect. This monument, from a design of Wyatt, was erected by mater¬ nal affection in memory of sir Watkin Williams Wynne, son of the sir Watkin whom dr. King has eulogized, and father of the present baronet. Upon the lower part of the cenotaph is the following con¬ cise, but emphatic inscription. FILIO OPTIMO MATER CHEU ! SUPEP.STES. This column is highly and tastefully fin¬ ished, rising from a spacious stone pave¬ ment, surrounded by a neat lawn, enclosed by majestic oaks, other trees of inferior magnitude and appropriate shrubs. Tho’ not seen from the house it is visible from various parts of the surrounding country. Upon a more enlarged scale is the New DHteabout 5m. in extent, conducted over lofty elevations, to a rotundo or Tower, in¬ tended to commemorate the heroes be¬ longing to the Cambrian legion of ancient britons, who fell in their country’s cause, under the command of sir Watkin, in the irish rebellion of 1798. This station af¬ fords a magnificen't display of mountains, woods, and the meandcrings of the deeply embedded Dee. Descend to the charm- 1101 RUABON. 1162 ing Xanl y Belan, or dingle of the martin upon a level with the river. The capti¬ vating scenery of this spot excited the ad¬ miration of the tasteful Lyttleton. It cer¬ tainly contains many exquisite beauties. A deep ravine overhung by the precipitous sides of ragged rocks, contains the Dee, fringed, for a space, with woods, terminat¬ ing a mad career in a profound pool of black stagnant waters. From a rock at the end of the dingle is a fine view to the w. of the ruins of Dinas Bran, seated upon it’s conic mountain, and the tovvnof Llangoll¬ en, appears to lie at the extremity of the vale, the scene being closed by the dis¬ tant british alps. The turnpike-road runs for about 2m. upon the bank made by forming Clawdd- Off a or Offa's Dyke. It is here 10 feet high, and broad enough to ad¬ mit 2 carriages, for a long space of ground called Llwybr y Cath or the cat’s path Near this road is a remarkable Tumulus, besides a fine view of the Dee, in it’s course through a delightful valley. After having viewed the obelisk, mansion, bath, Sc. c. the Dee may be crossed, on the bounds of the rather extensive park, and Chirk Cas¬ tle, a grand and venerable pile, arrived at. Advancing 3m. on the Wrexham road Erddig the elegant grounds belong¬ ing to Simon Yorke, esq. are on the r. Here anciently resided a descendent of Tudor Trevor. A Joshua Edisbury, esq. erected the present house. The estate under a de¬ cree of chancery was purchased by John Meller, esq. who bequeathed it to the grandfather of the present owner. The house is large and has recently been added to and modernized with a new exterior under the skilful hand of Wyatt. The plan of the old building however marred the new. The saloon and other apartments contain some valuable paintings, and the library is enriched by welsh manuscripts, including the Seabright collection. The approach from the Ruabon road, is ren¬ dered strikingly beautiful, by a dense wood, overhanging a banquetting room, disposed upon the edge of a murmuring brook, which, after having passed some other parts of the estate, skirts a spacious lawn of peculiar beauty. The grounds are laid out with considerable taste, but the efforts of art are conspicuous. A portion of Watts Dyieextends across these grounds running along one side of a bank between the 2 vallies by which this domain is bounded, not far distant are fragments o l acemented wall, and foundations of others, the remains of a fort, probably constructed by the Saxons to defend their line of de¬ marcation, as directed byOffa. This work consists of several deep entrenchments surrounding an area of a pentagonal form, apparently the site of a castelet or bastion tower, and at the verge is an artificial mount, upon which probably was another. Philip Yorke, esq. was a man of social and hospitable habits, and possessed of con¬ siderable talent. His “ History of the Five Royal Tribes of Wales,” is a work abound¬ ing with so much information that the reader cannot help wishing that he had written his intended Stemmata or Fifteen Tribes. His 11 Crude Ditties.” printed at Wrexham in 4to. do him little honour. A terrible conflict took place in this vicinity about the year 1161, between the English and Welsh. The latter were commanded by Owain Cyfeiliog, prince of Powys, who was the conqueror. This victory pro¬ duced the beautiful poem called Hirlas Occaiu, composed by the hero himself. This poem in the original, ranks with the best pindaric ode of the grecian school. It has been put into an English dress by the rev. Richard Williams o! Fron, andappears in Pennant’s Tours, bvo. vol.p. 93. The district to the 1. of the road from Ruabon to Wrexham abounds with valua¬ ble mines, and considerable works are carried on at Bersham and Brymba. The iron ore dug in the adjacent hills is ex¬ ceedingly rich, generating when blended with a portion of the furnace ore Irom Lancashire, an iron of most excellent quality. Mr. Rowland's furnaces are men¬ tioned as the most complete of their kind, and ably conducted. The coal is procured close to the works from pits 210 yards in depth. Almost every thing is done by the aid of steam engines of various powers. The furnaces at Brymba, belonging to two gentlemen of the name Jones, are con¬ ducted nearly in the same manner, and produce an article of the same kind. Ber- shum iron works, 2m. distant Irom Wrex¬ ham, belonging to that late celebrated en¬ terprising man John Wilkinson, esq. but the property was after his death vested in the hands of trustees, for the benefit of his children. These works are situated at Pont y Pencn, near Eeclusham, consisting of forges, slitting, rolling, and stamping mills, 1163 RUABON. RUTHIN. 1164 Sec. with a large cannon foundery. The was a strong hold anterior to that reign, various processes in preparing these in- Camden, however, asserts that both the struments of death are very curious. Be- castle and town were built by Roger sides cannon and mortars these works pro- Grey. It's history affords few interesting duce wheels, cogs, bars, pipes, cylinders, rollers, columns, pistons, Sec. Sec. Sheet iron is made and manufactured into fur¬ nace boilers, steam caissons, and various articles which were formerly made of cop¬ per. Wire of every dimension is also here produced. On mr. Pennant’s return to Ruabon, he passed through the turnpike to wards Wrex¬ ham, and digressed a little to the 1. to visit Caer-ddin, called Garthen, seated upon the summit of a hill, commanding an exten¬ sive view of Maelor Gymraeg, or Brom- field, and part of Maelor Saesneg or Eng¬ lish Maelor, mostly flat and wooded. This Caer includes 4 acres of ground, protected by deep ditches. The inner dyke is made of loose stones, with a wall of vast thick¬ ness on the top. Within the area are many vestiges of buildings. It lies about 200 yards upon the outside of Offa’sdyke ; up¬ on the top of which the turnpike-road is formed for a considerable way. He pur¬ sued the track of Wat’s dyke to Erddig. To Wrexham, 4 miles, Bingley; Skrine; Pennant. — Chirk Castle, 6 miles, Wyndham. To and from Bangor iscoed, byway of Overton, 20 miles, Bingley. — Oswestry, 9^ miles, Gilpin. — Whitchurch, IS miles. — Llangollen, 6 miles. Trom Llamhaiadyr,4 miles, Pennant; Bingley. - Mold, 7 miles, Bingley; Gilpin. ■- Denbigh, 8 miles, Wyndham; Pennant; Aikin; Hutton. -Bala, 21 miles, Warner. Back from Denbigh, Gilpin. RUTHIN, like Denbigh and St. Asaph, is situated upon the summit and slope of a considerable hill, nearly in the centre of the vale of the Cl wyd, which river runs through the place, but is an inconsiderable rivulet, serving only for the purpose of turning mills. This town has separate ju¬ risdiction, and is in the hundred of Rhu- ddyn, Denbighshire. The town evidently originated with the Castle called Rhyddin or the red fortress, from the colour of the stone with which it is built. Edward 1, is said to have erected the present fortress, yet the welsh name Castell coch yn Gwcrnfor, seems to indicate that there incidents. During a fair holden at Ruthin in the year 1400 Owen Glyndwr entered it with a small army, assailed the fortress without success, and after pillaging the in¬ habitants, and burning the town, retreated to the mountains. In the time of Charles 1, the castle was held for the king till the year 1645-6, but after sustaining a seige from the middle of February to the middle of April, it was given up to general Mytton, who received the thanks of the house of parliament. Colonel Mason was appoint¬ ed permanent governor, but soon after the castle was ordered to be dismantled. It’s situation was not upon the summit, but up¬ on the side of the hill fronting t'he vale to the w. Camden says that during the reign of Henry 7, through neglect it became roof¬ less. The delapidations seem to have been repaired, for the same author subsequent¬ ly represents it as “ a stately and beautiful castle.” It is described by honest Church¬ yard as it appeared in the 16th century as follows. “ This castle stands, on rocke much like red bricke, the dykes are cut, with toole through stonie cragge ; the towers are hye, the wallesare large and tnicke, the work it selfe, would shake a subjects bagge, if he were bent, to buyld the like agayne: it rests on mount, and looks ore wood and playne; ithad great store, of chambers finely wrought, that tyme alone, to great decay bad brought. It sliewes within, by dubble walles and waies, a deep device, did first erect the same: it makes our world, to thinke on elder daies, because the worke, was formde in such a frame. One tower or wall, the other answers right, as though at call, each thing should please the sight; the rocke wrought round, where eveiy tower doth stand, set forth full fine, by head, by hart and hand.” The poor remains of this once proud pile, consist of a fevv fragments of towers and fallen walls, reduced nearly to the founda¬ tions ; and the area is employed as a mea¬ dow, fives court, and bowling green. Ru¬ thin is described as having been a populous place, with the best market in the vale. It is at present a good town, containing according to the return under the popula¬ tion act of 1801, 243 houses, and 1115 in¬ habitants. It has two well-suppled mar¬ kets in the week ; on Monday and Satur¬ day. It is one of the contributary boroughs with Denbigh in returning one member to parliament. The corporation consists of I1C5 RUTHIN. 11GG wo aldermen and an unlimited number if burgesses. Besides the hundred of Ru¬ bin there is also the lordship of Ruthin, a manorial right which is vested in the Mid¬ dleton family at Chirk Castle, who ap¬ point a Stewart to it. The Church, tho’ only a chapel to Llnnrhydd, is a large spa- ;ious structure, anciently conventual, and belonging to the religious house of monks denominated Bon-hommcs. It is a per¬ petual curacy, not in charge. The dean md chapter of Westminster, patrons. It was changed into a collegiate chapter, a. d. 1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of 7 regular canons, and en¬ dowed it with valuable lands, and numer¬ ous privileges. The apartments for the canons were connected with the church by acloister, of which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the warden. The roof of the church is admired for it’s curious workmanship, consisting of small squares with various sculpture, bearing the workmen’s names. John de Grey, the founder, was probably buried here, but there is nothing com¬ memorative of him. The only monument worthy of notice is to the memory of doctor Gabriel Goodman, upon which his likeness is elegantly represented by a mar¬ ble bust. This person was a native of the place, distinguished for various learning, but particularly eminent as a linguist. Queen Elizabeth promoted him to the deanry of Westminster, and he was ap¬ pointed to assist in translating the scrip¬ tures. The first epistle to the Corinthians is said to have been wholly his perform¬ ance. He died dean of Westminster after 40 years incumbency. He supported Cam¬ den on his travels, who through the dean’s interest was made under-master of West¬ minster school. He founded the free- school here, and his philanthrophy con¬ tinues to live in a hospital for the aged poor. The Town.Hall, standing near tiie market-place, is not elegant, but has tolerable apartments for holding the great sessions, this place being preferred to Den¬ bigh as being more central. The Free- School is a good building, founded by Gab¬ riel Goodman, d.d., the endowment re¬ spectable. From this school young men are sometimes admitted into orders with¬ out having graduated at any university. The head-mastership is in the gift of Jesus College, Oxford. The New Jail is a handsome structure, designed by mr. Jos. Turner. The apartments for debtors aro separated from the felons by a lofty wall; the yards are spacious and supplied with baths. Even the condemned cells, bear marks of humane attention, being upon ^ level with the ground, dry, airy, and light. Godfrey Goodman was a native of Ruthin, to which he was a testamentary benefac¬ tor. He was distinguished as bishop of Gloucester in the time of Charles 1, and was accounted a high churchman. Under the protectorate he wrote a panegyric on Cromwell, who, in return courteous, eject¬ ed him from all his preferments. He re¬ tired to a property in Caernarvonshire, where in a house called Ty-du, he resided till he died in 1655. He was buried ac¬ cording to his direction, near the font in St. Margaret’s church, Westminster. He died, as appears from his will, in the faith of the romish church. The following is a pas¬ sage in this extraordinary testament. “ I do acknowledge the church of Rome to be the mother church, and I do verily believe that no other church hath any salvation in it, but only as far as it concurs with the faith of the church of Rome.”—Royal Tribes, p. 1C7. Inns. The White-lion, is a large inn; but the Cross-Foxes, will be found more comfortable, except for those who travel in carriages. One mile e. of Ruthin, near I.lanrhydd is Bathafarn, formerly a park belonging to the lord Greys, and afterwards of the Thel- walls. The house stands at the foot of a hill, called Moel-fenlli. These grounds are in a fine state of cultivation and well w r ood- ed. They are now the property of the rev. Roger Butler Clough. About 3m. s-w. from Ruthin, lies Pool-park, and Bachym- hyd, both seats of the right lion, lord Bagot, delightfully situated and finely wooded. The grounds of the latter place contain numerous chesnut-trees of very large girt. One is said to be near 24 feet in circum¬ ference. On the road to Catrwys, at the distance of 1m. on the r. is a road to Plus H ard close to the river Clwyd ; { m. on the 1. to 1-lanrhaiadyr, Cm., leave immediately lihyd V culgwyn ; proceeding -’m. on the r. is Glanndwyd; a little across the Clwyd lies Llanychen ; continue to the 1. of the Clwyd to Llanychen, lm. turn to the r. over the Clwyd to Cerrig Llivydion, the residence of 1.167 RUTHIN. 1168 rar. Edwards. It would be a disgraceful act in the editor were he not here to stop on his way, to pay to mr. Edwards a slight tribute of the most deserved praise, be¬ cause it is facts that shall speak ; they are simply as follow, derived from the liberal minded View of N. Wales by the rector of Manafon. Mr. Edwards, some years back, erected 13 cottages, within lm. of his re¬ sidence. They have upper stories for bed¬ rooms ; and a skilling at each end, one for a cow-house, the other for a milk-room. They arc slated, white washed, and many of them ornamented with sham windows and bulustrades. One cottage has six acres of land annexed to it, which maintains 2 cows, a calf, and a pig; besides some in tillage ; rent 9/. 5s. A 2nd has 4 acres, maintaining 2 cows, and a poney j rent 8/. These were the rents in 1799. A 3rd with 2 acres, keeping one cow, and one poney. It should be remembered that a cottacer’s stock should be a milch cow, a calf in rearing, and a pig ; ponies should be dispensed with, because people in health can bear walking. The welsh how¬ ever are particularly partial to easy sitting on horseback; they had much rather be carried than carry. It is an indulgence which the women seem to enjoy by cus¬ tom. You continually meet on the road with ill-clad women, mounted upon good ponies, but rarely meet any travelling on foot. To Llandyrnog, lm., from this place cross to the r. l|m. to Llangwyfan, and thence by a mountainous road to Caerw ys, 4m. or continue from Llandyrnog, by Pen- rhyn, lm. on 1. Ashpool on r. lm. to Gy- nas, near Bodfari, lfm. where you fall in¬ to the road from Denbigh to Caerwys. Hwlkin and the Grove, or. the r. Near Ruthin is the neat little village of St. Ffynnon St. Dyfnog, remarkable for a well, said to possess marvellous proper¬ ties in the cure of the rheumatism. Passing through the church-yard, and thence by an alms-house, to a plantation of trees with a broad gravel-walk, deeply shaded, the fountain is observable, enclosed in an an¬ gular shaped wall, forming a bath of con¬ siderable size. A subterraneous path leads thence into the pleasure-grounds belong¬ ing the seat of major Wylyn. On the road to Mold, at the distance of a mile from Ruthin, the traveller ascends Bwlch Pen Barras, being part of a vast chain of mountains which terminate the beautiful and extended vale of Clwyd. The road to Denbigh skirts the western side of the vale. At the termination of the 6th mile, the road branches into two. That to the r. is the new road, that to the 1. the old one. From the latter the town of Den¬ bigh and it’s castle, seated upon the lofty summitol an inclined plane, makes a grand appearance. The hill upon which it stands is a limestone rock, and is the more re¬ markable on account of being the only rock in the vale. The castle being much broken, no good view can be obtained of the whole, yet even taken separately the parts are beautiful, particularly the gate of the inner-castle, which is a noble frag¬ ment. The best views of the castle are from the parks. The descent of the hills towards Wrexham, overlooks the exten¬ sive level of the vale royal of Chester, At the foot, Orta’s Dyke is very visible upon each side of the road. On the road to Llangollen grows Poly¬ gonum fagopyrum. From Ruthin, mr. Pennant visited the neat little mother church of Llanrhydd. In it is the monument of John Thelwall, esq. of Bathafarn, and his wife, kneeling at an al¬ tar; with their sons and daughters. A bust of St. Ambrose, is admirably cut. The vale grows very narrow, and almost closes with the parish of Llanfair. If the extremi¬ ty be placed at Punt Aewydd, there cannot be a more beautiful finish, where the bridge, near the junction of the Clwyd and the Hespin, and a lofty hill cloathed with hanging woods, terminate the view. Went over part of the Coed Marclian, a large na¬ ked common, noted for a quarry of coarse red and white marble. Descended into the narrow vale of Nant-clwyd; and for some time rode over dreary commons. Upon one is a small encampment, with a single foss, called Caer Senial. Near this place entered Merioneadshire, and visited Caer Drewyn, another post, in full view of the beautiful vales of Glyndwrdwyc and Edeir- nion, watered by the Dee. It lies upon the steep slope of a hill; is of a circular form, and about ^m. in circumference. The defence consisted of a single wall, mostly in ruins. Not far hence, near Gwy- ddelwern, is a place called Suith Maachog. This post or fastness of Caer Drewy ,, is but one of the chain which begins at Diserth, and is continued along the Clwydian hills into the mountains of Yale. These were 1170 1169 RUTHIN. SHREWSBURY. temporary retreats of the inhabitants in time of war, or sudden invasions. Descended and found the usual ford of the Dee to Corwen impassible, gained again the Ru¬ thin road, upon a common marked with Tumuli. Passed near the house of Rug memorable from being the place where Gryffydd apCynan, king of Wales, soon af¬ ter his victory at Carno, in the year 1077, was treacherously surprised. In after times this place became the property of Owen Brogyntyn, natural son of Madoc ap Mere- dydd, a prince of Powys. Crossed the Dee, upon a very handsome bridge of six arches. To St. Asaph, the mountains which form the vale retire into recesses. Their tops are commonly smooth, their bases woody, but their shapes and lines are great¬ ly varied, tho’ the vale itself makes only one large curve. Approaching the end of the vale after passing through a space of more than 20m. the mountains draw near¬ er, till they insensibly close it up; the whole finishing in a noble bay of cultiva¬ tion. Ascending the higher grounds, a grand retrospect may be taken. It’s bosom, interspersed with lawns, cottages, and groves; the hills on each side, retiring one after another; till at St. Asaph the whole landscape unites with the sea. In a clear day the castle of Denbigh, and the tower of St. Asaph, inrich the view. “ The vale of Clieycl, which is entered at Ruthin, has been deservedly celebrated by all travellers. It may be chiefly consider¬ ed as a rich scene of cultivation, but it a- bounds also with picturesque beauty. It is very extensive, not less than 24m. in length, and 6, 7, and sometimes 8, in breadth. It is almostevery where screened by lofty mountains, which are commonly ploughed at the bottom and pastured at top. Within these bold limits the vale forms one large segment of a circle, varied only in different parts by little mountain recesses, which break the regularity of the sweep. The area of this grand scene is in some parts open, and extended, affording the most amusing distances: in other paits it is full of little knolls, and hillocks, and thickly planted with wood. The great want it sustains is that of water. Many little rivulets find their way through it; par¬ ticularly the Clwyd, whence it takes it’s name; but none of them is equivalent to the scene. The Clwyd itself is but a di¬ minutive stream. At one end indeed the the vale is open to the sea but the other is lost in mountains. About Ruthin the scene is woody, and continues so near 6m. fur¬ ther, till we reach Denbigh. The view here becomes more extensive, and opens towards St. Asaph, upon a wide and open flat called Rhudtllan-marsh, from a castle of that name which formerly guarded it’s confines. To Valle Crucis Abbey, 10g miles, Bingley. — Mold, 9 miles, Hutton. — Denbigh, 8 miles, Warner; Gilpin. — Wrexham, Id miles, Wyndhain. — Corwen, 13 miles, Pennant; Aikin. — Llangollen, 13g miles, 10 j enter the Vale Cru¬ cis; 1, pass the pillar of Eliseg, in a meadow on the 1.; on the 1. Vale Crucis Abbey; Castel Dinas Bran is upon an eminence be¬ yond ; lg, Llangollen. Back from Denbigh to SL Asaph, Gilpin, From Llanymynech, 17 miles, Pennant; Bingle-y. - Oswestry, 18 miles, Wyndhain. Henry Skrine, esq. and the rev. J. Kvans com¬ menced their lours through North Wales at this place. Mr. Gilpin ended his Tour in Wales at this place. SHREWSBURY, the county town of Shropshire, is supposed to have been found¬ ed in the 5th century by the Britons, as an asylum from the saxons, after they had levelled the roman Uriconium, (the Vre- ken Coaster of the saxons and the modern Wroxeter) and it’s fortress with thegronnd. The hill upon w hich they established themselves was called Pengwerne, i. e. the head of the alder grove s. It was here that they built a city which formed the capital of Powisland. It was hence named Pen¬ gwerne Powis. The Saxon invaders how¬ ever, destroyed the palace of the Britons, harassed them exceedingly, and had re¬ peated conflicts with king Offa, so as to compel them to desert the place. They finally retreated to Mathrafael, among the mountains of Montgomeryshire. After this conquest the Saxons changed the name of Pengwerne Powis to Scrobbes-byrig; which was softened into Shrobbesburie, Sloppesburie, Shrewsbury, and Salop. The ancient welsh called it Ymwithig, or the delight. In Canute’s time the inhabitants revolted, but prince Edmund afterwards king Edmund Ironside, brought forces from the n. and severely punished them. Dur¬ ing the norman conquest this place with nearly the whole county, were bestowed on Roger de Montgomery, created earl of 1171 SHREWSBURY. 1172 Shrewsbury, Arundel, and Chichester. It tered Shrewsbury, plundered and burnt was here that he erected a castle upon the the town. Superstition soon after, how• isthmus, and administered with the assist- ever, effected what war-couldnotatchieve. ance of his barons, solemn and kingly acts Edmond archbishop of Canterbury threat- of justice, donation and investiture. He ened each party with excommunication if also founded the abbey of St. Peter and St. they refused to adjust a peace. In 1241 Paul. In 1067 Owen Gwynedd, prince of Henry marched from Glocesterto Shrews- Wales, assaulted Shrewsbury, but was de- bury to attack Dafydd ap Llewelyn, but feated. In the doomsday survey this place this prince submitted. The town was a- is styled a city, and the churches named gain seized during the rebellion of Simon are, St. Alkmund, St. Julian, Salton de Montford, earl of Leicester. Llewelyn Church, St. Coed, and the monastery of St. ap Gruffydd made incursions on the bor- Peter. Robert de Belesme, son of Roger ders. In 1267, Henry again appeared at de Montgomery, who succeeded his bro- the head of his army; the humane pope ther Hugh the red, in the earldom, united again mediated and peace was restored, with a party to place Robert duke of Nor- In 1269, the town andcastle were placed mandy upon the throne, instead of Henry under the government of prince Edward, 1. The king laid seige to Shrewsbury, afterwards Edward 1. In 1277 he made Robert at length surrendered. Henry ban- Shrewsbury the principal seat of govern- ished him to Normandy, seized his im- ment. Llewelyn made predatory incur- mense estates and extinguished the glory sions on the english borders, engaged in of this baronial house. Even in Norman- the Montford rebellion, promoted the suc- dy this haughty prince appeared in arms cess of the insurgent barons, and endea- and stirred up an insurrection. He was a- voured in every respect to depress the eng- gain defeated, brought in chains to Eng- lish cause. He paid his addresses to a land, and confined in Warcham castle, daughter of the earl of Leicester, who was where he died. Afterwards a perpetual sent to him from France, but detained at war wascarried on between the Welsh and the english court. Edward required the English in which Shrewsbury and it’s con- attendant homage of Llewelyn, but the tiguousfieldswereoftenthesceneofaction. latter refused to entrust himself among During the reign of John, Gwynwynwyn, enemies. Edward made this neglect a pre¬ prince of Powis, met the royal council to text for attempting an entire conquest of propose terms of accommodation; the eng- the principality of Wales. At this time the lish lords arrested and threw him into pri- court of Wales was torn by intestine d is - son. The welsh entered into a treaty and sentions. After various struggles Llevv- delivered Rees ap Maelgwn, a youth of elyn submitted. He bound himself to pay seven years of age, of noble birth, as an to Edward 50,0001. do homage to theeng- hostage for performance of their covenant, lish crown and relinquish all the country The prince of Wales infringed the peace, between Chester and the river Conwy, and the child was barbarously put to death. Prince Dafydd, who had joined the english John advanced to Nottingham to extermi- grew indignant at their oppressions, and nate the revolters. So furious was his rage joined his brother. The welsh flew to that the moment that he arrived he com. arms. Edward advanced to Shrewsbury, minded the 28 hostages which had been Llewelyn was surprised by Mortimer, delivered to him at the late peace, all near Builth, in Breconshire, defeated, slain, children, and allied to the most distin- and 2000of his followers put to the sword, guished families in Wales, to be instantly Dafydd, his brother remained, but being hanged, and the ferocious monarch refused weak and the forces he could collect chas- to take any refreshment till the horrid ed from hill to hill, he was betrayed into deed was done. Three years afterwards the hands of the enemy. In 1283 Edward prince Llewelyn, entered the town. In called a parliament at Shrewsbury, and 1221 Henry 3, settled a difference be- then removed it to Acton-Burnell. Da- tween him and Rees ap Griffith. In fydd, with his wife, 2 sons, and 7 daugli- the 17th of Henry 3, Richard earl of ters were first confined in the castle of Pembroke, and other barons, taking ad- Rhuddlan, where the king resided. In vantage of the perpetual war between the vain did the prince intreat to see his con- vveish and English, joined Llewelyn, en- queror to throw himself at his feet. Ed- 1173 SHREWSBURY. 1174 ward refused to see him, and sent him in chains to Shrewsbury, there to undergo a formal trial. Dafydd had been made a baron while at the English court, he was :herefore tried as a traitor, and condemned o be dragged at a horse’s tail through the streets of Shrewsbury, hanged, his heart ind bowels burnt, his head cut off, his 3ody quartered, and hung up in different rarts of the kingdom. Thcdeath of Dafydd dosed the only sovereignty which remain¬ ed of the ancient british empire, an em¬ pire which had resisted the armies of im¬ perial Rome and withstood the utmost ef- orts of the saxon and norman princes. The nhabitants of Shrewsbury, after 800 years af almost constant warfare, began to enjoy intervals of fteace. [See further particu¬ lars of the History of this place in “ Some Account of the ancient and present state af Shrewsbury,’’ by the rev. Hugh Owen.] The most noted military transaction connected with this town is the important battle in July 1403, between Henry 4, and Henry Percy, surnamed Hot¬ spur, in which the army of the latter was routed and about 5000 men slain. The place of this bloody contention appears to have been Battlefield, a village in the par¬ ish of Albrighton, at the distance of 3m. This battle of Shrewsbury fixed the house of Lancaster upon the throne during 3 reigns, and may be called the earliest of those conflicts between the red and white roses, which 50 years afterwards filled the nation with calamity, and stained it with deluges of blood, The drama of Shake- spear has made this battle more famous than either history or tradition. The most noted action of that day was FalstafPs fight¬ ing a full hour by Shrewsbury clock with Percy after he had been killed. In the reign of William 1, Shrewsbury was grant¬ ed to Roger de Montgomety, who found¬ ed the castle and abbey. At this time it was a city. In the reign of Elizabeth the town was made corporate, which charter was confirmed by Charles 1, and James 2. The corporation consists of a mayor, 24 al¬ dermen, 48 assistants, called the common council, and other subordinate officers. It ! sends two members to parliament. This town stands upon a beautiful pen¬ insular hill, which the Severn encircles, except on the to. side. Being the great frontier of England, towards N. Wales, and the capital of a flourishing county, it has, from a very early period Of our history, been a place of considerable importance. The best houses are in the outskirts of the town and it’s environs ; the interior of the place having few attractions. The dispo¬ sition of the streets are extremely irregu¬ lar. The population, according to the par¬ liamentary census of 1801, amounted to 14,739 inhabitants and the number of hous¬ es 2861. The principal Inns are, the Lion, Raven and Bell, Talbot, Fox. The staple Trade of Shrewsbury is in fine flannels and Welsh webs. The flannels are bought at Welsh-pool, and chiefly resold to the Lon¬ don Merchants, who arc the exporters. The webs are fabricated in Montgomery¬ shire, Merionethshire, and Denbighshire, and brought to Shrewsbury, where they are sold in a hall, in which none but the members of the draper’s company are al¬ lowed to transact business. This market has, however, of late been much antici¬ pated by buyers in the country, which compels the Shrewsbury drapers to send thither. The webs made in Merioneth¬ shire are about seven-eights of a yard wide, andare called strong or high-country-cloth. Those made in Denbighshire, are called small or lo w-conntry-doth. The former, after they are bought by the drapers, have the wool raised and sheared by men called at Shrewsbury shearmen, or they are sent to the fulling-mill to be thickened, and arc then exported in bales of different siz¬ es, some containing 2000 yards. The ulti¬ mate markets are Holland, Germany, and America. In 1796 a considerable manu¬ factory of linen yarn was established at the end of the suburb called Castle-fore¬ gate, by messrs. Benyons and Bage of this place, and another by mr. Marshall of Leeds. Here are also a cotton manufac¬ tory, a starch manufactory, a porter brew¬ ery, and an extensive iron foundery. The cakes made here, which bear the name of the place, and the brawn, which are sent to the most remote parts of the king¬ dom, are both in high estimation. The Castle, which stands on the neck of the peninsula, formed by the Severn, has lately been repaired with much success, and the landscape from it’s mount, can scarcely be surpassed in picturesque beau¬ ty. The present buildings arc of red stone and consist of the keep on a large artificial mount, (which shews it to have been qf Saxon or British origin,) the walls of the 1175 SHREWSBURY. 1176 inner court, and the great arch of the in¬ terior gate. The keep is now converted into a handsome house. It consists of 2 round towers, embattled and pierced, con¬ nected by a square building about 100 feet in length, and nearly of the same height. The interior has been entirely changed. The entrance opens upon a handsome stone stair-case. The drawing room is spacious and handsome, apparently of the date of Charles 1. An obscure stone stair¬ case within the wall, lighted by narrow chinks leads to an apartment in the w. tower, which had a recess and groined ceiling. This building does not appear older than the time of Henry 3. The walls are 10 feet in thickness, and the beams of vast size. The present pointed arches of the door and windows, were inserted at the late repair. The area of the court is cleared of buildings, and converted into a pleasant garden. The battlements of the w. wall are pierced with narrow cruciform openings, called loops or oilets, for the convenience of crossbow men. The arch of the gateway is probably part of the original building. It’s walls seem to have sustained a tower, whence was suspended the portcullis. On the other side the court is a postern, and near it the massive foun¬ dations of an ancient tower. Attached to the s. side of the court and included with¬ in it, is a lofty mount, which rises abrupt¬ ly from the edges of the Severn. The sum¬ mit was surrounded with a wall, now much in ruins, upon one corner of which was a small barbican or watch-tower. This has been partly rebuilt and formed into a beautiful summer room. From this emi¬ nence is a view of uncommon variety and richness. Immediately below is the ma¬ jestic Severn; the town, it’s spires and turrets, the Free-School, the House of In¬ dustry, crowning an eminence, on the other side the suburb of Abbey-forcgate, and church. A finer amphitheatre of mountains can scarcely be found. The Wrekin, connected with the gentle hills of Acton-Burnell and Frodcsley (over which the summit of the brown Clee-hill is discoverable) with the Law ley and Caer Carrodoc near Streton, whence the Long Mynd, Stiperstones, and Long Mountain, form an uninterrupted chain. Next are the cliffs of the Cefn y Castel, Moel y Gol- fa, and Breddyn. Then the horizon is founded by the Berwyn range. The n. view is terminated by the humbler, but beautifuleminences of Grinshill, Pymhill, Hawkestone, Haughmond, &c. round the Wrekin. The knights of the shire are still chosen, notwithstanding it is private prop¬ erty, within the walls of this castle. It is at present the property of lord Darling¬ ton. Shrewsbury was not only defend¬ ed by it’s castle, but by a wall and towers which completely surrounded it. The first stone rampart was raised by earl Ro¬ bert de Bclesme, son of Roger de Mont¬ gomery, to a considerable extent on each side the castle ; and he thus secured him¬ self for awhile from the attacks of his ene¬ my Henry 1. The other part of the walls was erected by Henry 3, at the request of the inhabitants, in order to resist the in¬ roads of the Welsh. In almostevery part, the original walls were at a distance from the river. Those on the s-e. side of the town are kept in good repair, and form pleasant, but interrupted walks. Those on the n-w. side are entirely covered with houses. Along the verge of the river from the school to the Welsh-bridge, another was built in 1645, called Rowshill-wall, added by order of Cromwell. It extended from the end of earl Robert’s wall at the edge of the river to the welsh bridge. The County Jail, which is likewise the House of Correction, stands near the cas¬ tle, and was finished in 1793, at the ex¬ pense of 30,000/. The boundary-wall en¬ closes 2 acres of ground, and is 16 feet high. The beauty and salubrity of this spot is scarcely exceeded by the delightful eminences of the Castle mount, and House of Industry. A walk at the foot of the castle leads to this building. The prison is entered by a gate under an arch of free stone, on each side is a lodge. Over the gate is a fine bust of John Howard, esq. by Bacon, presented by the late Tho. Knight, of Henley, near Ludlow, and Rowland Hunt, esqrs. The ground floor on the 1. contains the turnkey’s apartments and his bed-chambers are above. On the r. hand is the Lazaretto, a hot and cold bath, with an oven to fuminate and purify prisoners’ clothes, which are taken from them on admission and the gaol uniform put on. Up stairs are two reception-rooms, a room for the irons, and a sitting-room for the clergyman, who there performs the last offices to persons under sentence of death, who suffer on the flat roof above. The 177 SHREWSBURY. 1178 ourt in frunt of the keeper’s house is a- of St. Peter and St. Paul, founded in 1083, ,out 20 yards square, and the inner turn- by Roger de Montgomery, earl of Shrews- :ey’s lodge adjoins. The master’s-side bury,and hiscountess Adelaisa. It's monks lebtors, the common side debtors, the fe- were Benedictines from Seez, in Nor- nale debtors, female felons, capital male mandy. The w. tower, the nave, and n. elons, petty male felons, lewd women and porch only remain. The tower contains a agrants, male and female disorderly scr- fine gothic window, over which is a statue, ants and apprentices, male vagrants and The interior of the church contains 5 arches eserters, have each a spacious court, day placed on each side of the middle aisle, ooms, & sleeping cells. There are 2 courts The 2 joining to the tower and the win- nd rooms for male and female king’sevi- dows over them are pointed. The other ence, and 2 for male and female refractory arches are semicircular with very thick ■risoners. There is a detached Infirmary round pillars, short and plain. Above was vith separate courts, day-rooms and sleep- a gallery of smaller arches in the same ng rooms. Seventy-eight of the felons’ style. Within the 2d arch from the w. end ells have double doors, the outer iron are vestages of what may have been an an- rated, the inner wood. The chapel is in cient chantry chapel. There are several he centre of the building and the several mutilated niches and the statutes gone, lasses enter by different doors; and are The church has lately been very judicious- eparated by partitions so as not to be seen ly improved and decorated by a handsome me by another. On a level with the chap- new organ, and an e. window of stained ;1 are six cells for prisoners under sentence glass. In the centre compartments are if death, or solitary confinement. All the large figures of St. Peter and St. Paul; a- :ells are well ventilated, and divided by bove are the arms of England, the see of obbies, or passages. There are several Litchfield, the founder of the Abbey, and vork rooms for both men and women. A of lord Berwick, patron of the living. On vatchman goes round the prison and cries each side are the arms of the vicars from he hour. A pleasant terrace walk is at the year 1500. In the e. window of the s. he end of the building, whence descend- aisle are 3 ancient shields. In the corres- ng to the river, a foot path leads to the ponding window on the n. side, are the English bridge, the first stone of which arms of Mortimer, Beauchamp, Talbot, vas laid June 25, 1769; it was designed earl of Shrewsbury, and Fitzalan quarter¬ ly — Gwyn, a native of Shrewsbury, and ing Maltravers. The Font near the w. en- s elegantly constructed of stone with bal- trance is very ancient. Near the n. door istrades, consisting of 7 arches, is 410 feet is another very elegant font. The ancient n length and 35 in breadth. It cost monuments and brasses are gone, except- i6,000/. Hence the castle, river, the town, ing a figure in mail at the e. end of the s. rartly hidden by trees, with the spires of aisle, with the following inscription: 5t. Mary’s and St. Alkmund’s churches, “ The figure underneath, which was at orm a beautiful scene. Close adjoining first placed within the Monastery of St. ire the Water-Works which supply the Peter and St. Paul, and was afterwards :ovvn. In an opposite direction is the found in the ruins, was removed hither Welsh bridge, which was completed in by directions of his Majesty’s Heralds at 1795. The plan was by Tilly and Carline, Arms, in their visitation of this county, stone masons of the town. It consists of 1622, to remain (as it was originally in- 5 arches, the length 266 feet, the breadth tended) in perpetual memory of Roger de 30, the height 30. Instead of the ancient Montgomery, earl of Shrewsbury, who one, with a gate and towers at each end, was kinsman to the conqueror, and one of the present is a newly erected substitute, his chief commanders in the victorious more beautiful and convenient. The sta- battle of Hastings. He erected many use- tute of a prince in armour, supposed to be ful buildings here, both public and pri- intended for Richard duke of York, was vate ; and not only fortified this totvn with removed thence into a niche in the end walls, but built the castle on the Isthmus, of the market-house. A fluaij faced with As also the castles of Ludlow and Bridg- stone and warehouses are built upon the north, with the Monastery of Wenlock. tide of the river nearest the town. Not far He founded and endowed in an ample man- from the English bridge stood the Abbey ncr this large Benedictine Abbey; and 1179 SHREWSBURY 1180 when advanced in years,, by the consent of his countess Adelaisa, he entered into Holy Orders, and was shorn a monk of this his own foundation, where he lies in¬ terred. He died July 27th 1094.” The modern memorials are to Richard Prynce, 1665; Edward Baldwyn, 1735; John Wa¬ ters, 1727; Tho. Rock, 1678; Tho. Jen¬ kins, 1730. On plain stones, on the floor, Wm. Prince, 1703; dr. Gibbons, 1639; Samuel Pearson, 1727; Nathaniel Bet- ton, 1800. In the garden is a most beautiful Stone Pulpit , open on all sides, of which mr. Pennant has given a print. It is supposed to be the remains of an¬ cient oratory.—Tour in Wales, 8vo. vol. 3, p- 248. Three of the mendicants of friars had Convents here. That of the friars Eremites of St. Augustine stood at the bottom of Barker-street, near the riv¬ er, granted by Henry 3. The Francis¬ cans or Grey Friars, had a house a lit¬ tle to the s. of the new bridge, without the town walls, at the end of Marwell- Street. The remains were fitted up into a private house. The Dominican or Black Friars monastery occupied, probably, the whole of themeadow which extendsalong the river between Water-lane-gate and the English bridge. It is uncertain by whom this house was founded. Scarcely a frag¬ ment of it now remains. The parochial Churches of Shrewsbury are mostly an¬ cient. Old St. Chad’s was founded before the Norman conquest, probably by the Saxons, soon after the expulsion of the welsh, on the site of a palace of the princes of Powis, which was destroyed by fire. In the year 1393 this structure was burnt down by the carelessness of a workman who was repairing the leads. In order that this loss might be retrieved, Richard 2 granted the town several indulgences to assist them in erecting another fabric. The interior of this building, as well as it’s ex¬ terior, is said to have been extremely ven¬ erable. Partof the chancel is only standing, kept in repair as a chapel to the burying- ground. The main fabric, however, in the course of a. night, in the year 1788, fell, or rather sunk to the earth, with so little noise, that no person in the neighbour¬ hood, which vvas very populous, nor even the watchmen were alarmed. It is sup¬ posed that it sunk from a deep excavation made by coal-pits, with which the neigh¬ bourhood abounds. It is from this building that the present fragment remains. A-. nother church called the New St. Chads, has been lately erected near the quarry. It’s style is highly ornamental. The prin¬ cipal entrance is through the w. door, in¬ to a circular vestibule containing the stairs leading to the galleries. The body of the church is a rotunda, resembling a theatre. Mr Bingley remarks, that “ the support¬ ing pillars both above and below are out of all proportion. The upper ones are in the Corinthian order, and tho’ the inten¬ tion may have been to give an appearance of lightness to the building, they are in¬ excusably too long for their diameter, and reminded him of a range of long mould candles. The columns which support the galleries are of a different order, and, per¬ haps by way of contrast, are as short and thick as the others are long and small. In addition, their bases are made level with tlie r tpps of the pews, giving an appear¬ ance of insecurity.” The fine east win¬ dow of Litchfield cathedral by Eginton, being removed thence to make room for more appropriate ancient glass was pur¬ chased by the parishioners of St. Chad’s, and intended to be put up here. The sub¬ ject is the resurrection of Christ, from a design by West. St. Mary’, and Si. Alhmund’s are both remarkable for their handsome spires. St. Mary’s Church is situated at the n-e. part of the town in a small area, and with the exception of St. Giles, is the only ancient structure of this place which has been handed dovvn to the present time in an entire state. The church is a large venerable building, in the form of a cross, consisting of a nave, side aisles, transept, choir, and it’s chapels, with a w. steeple. The exterior presents various styles of ancient architecture. The base¬ ment of the tower is of red stone, and con¬ tains the small round-headed windows of the early norman era. From the bell-story the pointed style takes place, and is of the grey freestone of Grinshill quarry, as is al¬ so the greatest part of the fabric. The tower is large but low. The upper story has, on every side, handsome double win¬ dows. From the tower rises a lofty and beautiful spire. The windows of the low¬ er parts bear the remains of rich spiring canopies and pinnacles. The height of the tower is 76 feet, of the spire 140. Upon the s. side of the church is a stone porch of early norman architecture. It’s out- 1181 SHREWSBURY. 1182 xvard arch is circular, with diagonal or zig-zag mouldings, the inner rib obtusely pointed. The small pointed windows on ■each side are curious specimens of the very earliest rudiments of the mullioned window. The ceiling also presents an ex¬ ample of the most ancient kind of groined vault, and consists of four round massive ribs, crossing each other in the centre, without any boss or ornament. The semi¬ circular arch of the interior door is a good specimen of the style of building in fashion from the conquest to the days of Henry '2. The n. door is an elegant example of this ancient kind of building. Formerly it was an unsightly wooden porch, which was re¬ moved in 1801. The arches of the n. and s. doors of the transept are in the same early style. The decorations of the latter are rather uncommon, having lozenge pan- nels placed alternately, and each filled with an embossed flower. The side-aisles, with the upper story of the nave and choir, have pointed windows with mullions, while those of the transept arc long and lancet-shaped, without any. The higher walls of the nave were, in the repair of 1T56 very injudiciously raised some feet above their original level, which altogether destroys the ancient proportions, and gives the whole building a top heavy appear¬ ance. Formerly the church was crowned with pinnacles, which issued from the spaces between each window, and the corner buttresses of the transept and choir, but now, excepting those on the chapel, not one remains. This church is spacious within, lofty and interesting, and excepting that of Ludlow, the handsomest in the county. The walls of the nave are supported on each side by 4 semicircular arches, with moulding peculiar to the pointed style, and these spring from finely clustered pillars, their shafts having the small flat rib which belongs to the 13th century. The capitals are highly enriched with foliage, and, as is usual in ancient churches, are all of different designs. A- bove the arches is a clere-story, with a high range of short windows on both sides, running the whole length of the church. These are irregularly ranged in couplets, and have heads very obtusely pointed, eaeli divided by a single mullion. The ceiling of the nave, which is of oak, rises into an extremely flat arch, separated by it’s principal beams into square pannels, including circles richly adorned with quo- trefoils and foliage. The ribs and bosses, at their intersections, are carved with dou¬ ble roses, devices, and knots, those attach¬ ed to the centre beam having pendent ornaments, pelicans, angels with musical instruments, and grotesque sculptures. The chancel is considerably elevated by 2 ascents of steps. On each side is a point¬ ed arch, blocked up, resting upon imposts similar to the clustered pillars in the nave. That on the s. communicated with the chapel of the virgin Mary; the other with the chantry chapel, now used as a vestry and registry of the peculiar. On the n. side, near the altar, is a beautiful triple window, with arches, remarkably sharp pointed, the centre rising much higher than those of each side, and supported upon slender insulated columns, whose capitals are adorned with foliage, busts, & grotesque heads. The ceiling of oak pan- nelling, was in this part quite plain. The interstices between the beams have been plastered over, and painted with trefoil and other appropriate enrichments, and the intersections adorned with carved roses and devices, collected from the ruins of St. Chad’s and St. Alkmund’s. In the chapel of the virgin Mary, under the lofty arch which was formerly open to the chancel is an altar.tomb, upon which is a recumbent figuic of a cross-legged knight, in linked armour, the sides adorned with rich foliated niches, once containing fig¬ ures. Churchyard informs us, that this monument belonged to a Leyborne, pro¬ bably John de Leyborne, of Berwick Ley- borne, last of the family. In the lower divisions of the e. window of tire chancel there is some ancient painted glass brought from old St. Chad’s, representing the root of Jesse: the arch is made up with an¬ cient coats of arms and modern stained glass. The altar-piece is a rich grecian design ; the altar is a fine slab of Sienna marble, bordered with jasper. In January 1740, a person named Robert Cadman lost his life by attempting to descend upon his breast from the top of the spire by means of sliding on a rope terminating upon the opposite side of the river. The rope broke, his body after falling to the ground re¬ bounded to the height of several feet, and then was lifeless. In Si. Alkmund’s church, is a modern painting on the glass of the e. window, which cost 200/. the 1183 SHREW performance of the late mr. Eginton, of Handsworth, near Birmingham. The sub¬ ject is Faith in the attitude of kneeliug up¬ on a cross; her arms extended towards a crown, which appears from the clouds. It was put up in the year 1795. The first is said to have been founded by king Edgar and the latter by the heroine Elfreda, in honour of the son of Alured, king of Nor¬ thumberland. The church, said tube most ancient, is that of Si. Giles, placed on the skirts of the suburbs beyond the ab¬ bey. St. Julian's Church is of brick, the tower of stone. Here are also chapels for the prcsbyterians, Unitarians, indepen¬ dents, anabaptists, methodists, quakers, moravians, and roman catholics. The Free School, which is in a street near the castle, was originally built of wood, and founded by Edward 6, in 15512. The pres¬ ent structure was erected 43 years after¬ wards. It consists of the school, houses for the masters, and a library, containing some valuable books and several curiosi¬ ties. The remains of the very ancient chapel of St. Nicholas is situated in Castle- street, on the 1. hand entrance into the Council-house, and is now used for stables. The form is oblong about 50 feet by 20 ; it consisted of a nave and chancel without aisles. The Subscription Charity School, for instructing and clothing poor children, is situated by the road-side leading to the abbey. It was begun in the year 1708. The children are dressed in brown. St. Ckad’s Alms-houses, for decayed old men and women, were founded in 1409, by Bennct Tupton. They are situated in St. Chad’s Church-yard. St. Mary’s Alms¬ houses, in Ox-lane, near St. Mary’s church, were founded about the year 1460, by Digery Waters, a draper. Bowdler’s Charity School, a plain brick building, stands in the Back-lane. It was founded in 1724, in conformity to the will of mr. Thomas Bowdler, for instructing, cloth¬ ing, and apprenticing poor children of the parish of St. Julian. Two additional wings were added in 1789. The dress of the children is blue. Allan's Charily School is an elegant structure of free stone, con¬ sisting of two houses for the master and mistress united to the school-rooms by arcades. It was founded pursuant to the will of mr. John Allatt, many years cham¬ berlain of the corporation. The children are educated, clothed, and apprenticed. SBURY. 1184 Twenty coats and 80 stuff gowns are also distributed annually to as many poor old men and women. The ingenious mr. George Bagley is the present master. The Infirmary stands near St. Mary’s church-yard. It was opened in 1745, is supported by voluntary benefactions, and it’s benefits extend to all proper objects without distinction of place. The Town Hall is a modern elegant structure, with a handsome stone front to the street. The ground floor consists of a vestibule and two courts for the assizes. Under that for the crown bar is a cell, where the prisoners wait. A spiral stone stair-case leads to the higher story, where is a large room for county meetings, an apartment for grand juries, and various offices. One of the rooms is used for the public sub¬ scription library. This hall was designed by — Haycock, of this town, and com¬ pleted in 1785 at the expense of 11,000/. The grand jury room contains portraits of Geo. 1, and 2, and of admiral Benbow, The old town hall stood across the present square at right angles. It was a large strong timber building with a high clock turret. There is a Court of Conscience also held here every Wednesday. It was established in the reign of queen Elizabeth for the recovery of small debts above 2*. and under 40s. The Market House is built with wrought free stone, in the fan¬ tastic style of the lbth century. In the centre of a spacious portal in the front are the arms of Elizabeth in relief. In the n. and s. ends are large open arches. In the former stands the statute of Richard duke of York. Upon his r. hand is the follow¬ ing inscription: “This statute was re¬ moved by order of the Mayor from the tower on the welsh bridge, in the year 1791.” And on his 1. the town’s arms in relief. The lower area is appropriated for the corn market, and measures 105 feet by 24. Over this is a spacious chamber of the same size. The Market Cross is a strong structure of brick and stone, over which is a reservoir on groined arches, but as the building is not sufficient to contain one twentieth part of those who bring pro¬ visions for sale, the rest are necessitated to stand in the open street. The Cloth- workers or Sheermen’s Hall is an ancient building of red stone, on the upper end of the High-street. It is at present a tea warehouse. The only embattled man- 1185 SHREWSBURY. 1186 sion, and the most ancient existing in this covvn is Charlton Hall, now the Theatre. John de Charlton, married an heiress of the lord of Povvis, and is supposed to have possessed this house, for in 1308, he ob- ained the king’s licence to embattle his •esidence. The vestiges of this house are put scanty. It’s boundary walls once in- :losed all the space contained between 3ross-Hill, St. John’s Hill, Murivance or Swan-hill, and Shoplache. The most con- iderable remnant is a lofty building of ed stone, extending in length 100 feet, tnd in breadth 31. On the side next the treet, an attempt has been made to give •t a modern air, by a plaster front; the >thcr exhibits the original walls of red tone, with some gothic arches blocked ip; and various marks of high antiquity. 3f the unembattled town mansions, Vaughan’s Place, is the most ancient. The lallstill remains nearly entire, except that he narrow pointed windows have been iltered into square ones. The pannels letween the timbers of the lofty roofs are ike those often seen in old chqrches, ormed into quatre-foils. The name of Hole-Hall shews that (t’s origin was derived rom one of the old Shrewsbury family. Che Council-House received it’s name from laving been the residence of the Court of he Marches of Waies, for tho’ their prin¬ cipal abode was at Ludlow, they were lccustomed to hold onq term in the year it this place for the convenience of sui- ors, and another at Bewdley, and some- imes at Hereford. This house is delight- ully situated upon a steep bank, impepd- ng over the river. The entrance to it rom the town is by a venerable timber ;ate-house, the ornaments of which have leen lately plastered over. The hall has t’s bay window. The chimney-piece is i pure grecian design, and extends from he floor to the ceiling, in the centre of it ire the arms of Owen of Condover. The 'Vhite Hall, is one of those houses which lelong to the period of Elizabeth, lofty, quare, and compact; the roof finished vith numerous pointed gables, the cliim- lies highly ornamented, and the whole rowned with an octagonal turret in the entre. The gate-house is still standing, nd the ancient garden walls. The Bell- lone House, so called from a large stone, feet by 5, lying at the outward angle of ic ». wall, said to belong to Kirwan’s 3D siliceous genus, speces 32, and called Hornstone. This house may be mention¬ ed as a gqod specimen of the smaller man¬ sion of queen Elizabeth's reign. Jones’s Mansion stands at the corner of Ox-lane, leading to St. Alkmund's. It exhibits the square mullipned window of the days of James the 1st, and the wide gable and clumsy sash of Charles the 2nd’s time. These are the only remains of ancient stone buildings that are to be met with here. The oldest Timber House in Shrewsbury is probably the large structure at the higher end of the Double Butcher’s row, now divided into several dwellings. Wi th the exception of it’s square windows, this building is entirely of gothic architec¬ ture. The projecting stories are sustain¬ ed by elegant springers, which as well as the principal timbers, are enriched with carved work consisting of small pointed arches, with trefoil and other ornaments. The strong foundations of red stone, still visible in the adjoining narrow passage, . called Grope, or the Dark Lane, probably made part of these premises, and enclosed a court. The noble timber house on the left hand of the High-street, near the turn¬ ing tow’ards Mardol, was the town-house of the Irelands, of Albrighton, and was sold to the Corbets about the year 1720. At the bottom of the Wyle-Cop, and ad¬ joining the bridge, is a large ancient man¬ sion, erected probably by Wm. Jones, al¬ derman and draper, in 1580. The Inn called the Old Post Office, near St. Julians, is of the same class of ancient buildings. A Magazine or Depot was erected by government in the year 1806, near St. Giles’s church, on the 1. of the Birming¬ ham road in the suburbs of tile town. It was designed by Wyatt and is constructed of brick. The principal part of the build¬ ing is 135 feet by 39, in 2 stories, capable of containing 25,000 stand of arms. Within the enclosure are two magazines for am¬ munition, and a small neat house at each angle for the store-keeper, armourer, and a subaltern’s guard. It was built for the reception of the arms of the volunteer corps of Salop and the adjoining counties. Shrewsbury Shew , as it is called, is believed to have originated in the romish proces¬ sion on Corpus Christi days to St. Chads. On the Monday fortnight after Whitsun¬ day, the associated tiadesmen, with flags, drums, and fifes, and a person clad in 1187 SHREWSBURY. 1188 armour on horseback, pass in procession through the streets of the town to the piece of ground called Kingsland, on the opposite side of the river, where arbours were erected, and where the mayor and aldermen visit them; after a day spent in festivity the whole procession returns to the town. On an eminence above Frankwell. a suburb beyond the Welsh bridge, stands Millington's Hospital; a handsome brick building, founded in 1734, under the direction of the will of mr. James Millington, a draper. Near the church of New St. Chads is a delightful walk called the Quarry, occupying a rich mea¬ dow of about 20 acres, gradually sloping to the river. An avenue of tall limes, forming a charming prominade ; it probab¬ ly obtained it’s name from a small quarry of red stone, which formerly existed in the dingle. This stone was of the colour of that speces of brick called Windsor. The buildings erected with it, seen in several of the adjoining counties as well as at Shrewsbury, are singular in their ap¬ pearance, looking as if formed of large bricks. Powis castle, near Welsh Pool, in Montgomeryshire, and Chirk Castle, in Denbighshire, seem originally built with this kind of stone. The red stone rock on the Severn, a mile below Stourport, consists of this kind of stone. In the 16th century Shrewsbury was the scene of theatric representations, as of “ Julian the Apostate,” and other pieces, the com¬ positions of an ingenious man of those times named Aston, who makes a consid¬ erable figure in the annals of Shrewsbury. “This yeare 1568 at Whytsuntyde, was a notable stage playe, played at Shrosbury, which lasted all the holly dayes unto which com greate numbers of people, of noblemen and others, the which was praysed greatly, and the chyffe actor there¬ of was one master Aston, beinge the head scoole master of the free scoole there, a godly and learned man who tooke marvel, ous great paynes therein.”—Addition to doctor Taylor’s manuscript Account of the Reception and Entertainment of sir Henry Sidney, at the Free School Shrewsbury, 1582.] The particular spot which formed the rural theatre, was at the top of the rope-walk in the Quarry. The ground, which forms a gentle acclivity, was cut into the form of an amphitheatre, the seats of which were visible as late as the year 1759. The ground opposite is Called Kingsland. The lower walk which skirts the river, is 540 yards in leqgth, shaded with lime trees, planted by Henry Jenks, esq., in the year of his mayoralty 1719, and which having subsequently attained a considerable size, render the walks ex¬ tremely pleasant. In the middle of this walk is a double alcove, with seats front, ing both the river and the town, erected in the year 1734. Three walks lead from the town to that on the river side and two othets cross the entrance; one of these was made during the mayoralty, and un¬ der the direction of mr. John Cotton, in the year 1755, extending from St.John’s Hill to where once stood the tower; the other extends from the reservoir to the top of the hill near the dry dingle, and was formed during the mayoralty of mr. John Bennet, in 1759. The Tower just men¬ tioned was one of the ancient guard sta¬ tions of the town. About the year 1787, it however became by purchase, the prop¬ erty of William Smith, esq., who pulled it down, and erected an elegant residence upon it’s site! A man must certainly be allowed to dispose of his own property as he chooses; but when opulence demol¬ ishes a venerable and conspicuous relic of ancient time, a sensation like that of sacrilegious daring strikes the observer’s mind. The editor laments much that mr. Smith did not more generously repair this ancient watch-tower and make it respect¬ able as an appendage to his new erection. The editor recollects an instance of simi¬ lar conduct practised by sir Wm. Bruce, at the Carron Works, near Falkirk in Scot¬ land, who ordered a singular monument of roman antiquity called the Lacellumor Little Pantheon, to be razed to the ground, in order to supply materials for forming a reservoir of water for a mill! He knows nothing of sir William, further than this fact bespeaks ; but every intelligent read¬ er will join in pronouncing, without the least hesitation, that sir William was no more than a mere tradesman. Upon a lofty bank, opposite to those walks, is a fine brick building, begun in 1760, which cost upwards of 12,000/. de¬ signed to receive part of the foundling! from the great hospital in London, but or the decline of that, it’s design was frus trated. It was then made use of as a placi of confinement for prisoners of war. Bui 1189 SHREWSBURY* 1190 an act of parliament was obtained by the inhabitants of Shrewsbury to enable them to convert it to a House of Industry, for the 5 parishes of the town and Meole- Brace. It was opened for this purpose in December 1783. The alterations, and 20 acres of land cost 6270/. The front of the building commands a fine view of the town and suburbs of Shrewsbury. The trees of the Quarry appear like a wood, above which are seen the churches of St. Mary, St. Alkmund, and St. Chad. Be¬ yond appears the Wrekin, and other moun¬ tains. In the opposite direction the Breid- din Hills are visible, and an extensive tract of country. For minute and interesting particulars of this institution see “ Some account of the Shrewsbury House of In¬ dustry, with observations on the Poor’s Laws, by I. Wood. Published by Long¬ man and Co. London, price 3 s. 6d. 1800. Mr. Neild, the philanthropic disciple of Howard visited this place in 1807, of which he remarks, “ The House of In¬ dustry is certainly a House of Plenty, for the books every where bear record of good living and the famous beefs slaughtered there. I am informed that the Act incor¬ porates 13 parishes, chapelries, and town¬ ships, and the extent n. and s. 18m. and nearly the same e. and w. Now the vast district must necessarily preclude the di¬ rectors from being acquainted with the real circumstances of paupers so remote from inspection, or when the distant out- poor should be taken off the books. In a single parish, the overseer is perfectly ac¬ quainted with every pauper, his wages, ability, connexions. See. and cannot easily be imposed upon. Owing to this want of information and personal acquaintance with the paupers, there may be great a- buse of out-pay. Particular enquiry im¬ poses a task on the directors which they are unequal to, because they have their own families and concerns to look after. It would be less troublesome and less ex¬ pensive (in my opinion) for each parish to provide for it’s own poor. The average number in the house is 340; the children delicate and pampered, from being accus¬ tomed to abundance and variety of pro¬ visions, and comfortable rooms, very dis¬ similar to those of the hardy peasant, and therefore ill calculated to rear up useful assistances in the employments of agricul¬ ture, or to make useful servants to the farmers in this agricultural county. They would prefer a race of hardy lads, inured from their infancy to combat weather and temporary want, whose nerves are strong by early exertions, and their understand¬ ings furnished with some knowledge of rural life.” [Gent. Mag. Oct. 1807.] Mr. Nield’s remarks bear obvious and decisive weight of argument, and they are further strengthened by the following observa¬ tion by Dr. Lettsom. “ It is a frequent question, “ What conduces most to health and happiness ?” The answer might be, “the two things mankind take the most pains to avoid. Labour and Abstinence." That degree of labour which may be hard without being oppressive, and that quanti¬ ty of food which suffices to support nature without loading the stomach: and hence benign in it’s effects, is the injunction of the Creator, “ In the sweat of thy face thou shalt eat thy bread.” Indulgence and plenty uhfit poor children for laborious situations, who ought, by early initiation to know that hard work and hard living are the natural allotments of their rank in society. At the same time let it be un¬ derstood, that spartan severities are not re¬ commended, nor would they be conducive either to the health or happiness of the youth.”—See Owen’s Shrewsbury 339. Wroxeter is an ancient town, 5 miles from Shrewsbury, near the London road, supposed to be Uriconium, one of the cities of the Cornavii, the ancient inhabi¬ tants of these parts. It is situated upon the confluence of the Severn and Tern. The remains of the walls or old buildings are about 20 feet high and 100 feet in length, of hewn stone, with 7 rows of britisii bricks at equal distances, and arch¬ ed within. The citadel probably stood here. The entire walls were 3m. in cir¬ cumference. Roman coins have been found here and several urns. Deep and wide graves have also been met with, and the corpse enclosed in red clay. The ro¬ man way passed hence to the Strettons. To Oswestry. Shelton, ljm. “About l;]m. from Shrewsbury where the Pool road diverges from that which leads to Oswestry, there stands an ancient decay¬ ed Oak. There is a tradition that Owen Glendwr ascended this tTee to reconnoitre; and finding that the king svas in great force and that the earl of Northumber¬ land had not joined his son Hotspur, he 1 191 SHREWSBURY. 119? fell back to Oswestry, and immediately after the battle of Shrewsbury, retreated precipitately into Wales.”—Gough’s Cam¬ den. The dimensions are girt at bottom, close to the ground, 44 feet 3 inches,, Girt, 3 feet from the ground, 25 feet 1 inch. Girt S feet above the ground 27 feet, 4 inches. The height of the principal trunk battered at the top, 41 feet 6 inches. The tree is completely in a state of decay. Skelton, £m., (on the r. are Ross-hall, Ce¬ cil Forster, esq.; apd Berwick, mrs. Lissey Ann Powis ; beyond which is Upper Ber¬ wick, R. Bc-tton, esq.; proceeding l|m. on the 1. see Onslow, — Philips, esq.; jm. further is Dint-hill, T. Wingfield, jun. esq.;) Cross the Severn at Monljord-hridge, 2m. 15f. Near this bridge grows the Ero- dium moschatum, and Campanula rapun- culus. After an ascent on this road, a fine view opens of the 3 Breiddin hills, rising abruptly from the plain to the height of 1000 feet. Upon the summit of the high¬ est hill stands a column rising nearly, 60 feet erected in 1781, by subscription to commemorate the splendid victories of the late lord Rodney, during the previous year. On the 1. is Monlford, J. Parry, esq. l^m. beyond, on the r. is Ensclon-house, a hunting seat belonging earl Powis ; and lm. further on the r. is Great Ness, J. Ed¬ wards, esq.) Great Ness, 3m. 3f. Kesscliff, ^m. The top of Nesscl iff rock is occupied by a beautiful wood, which renders it in¬ teresting. The steep sides of these rocks are marked with deep waved regular fur¬ rows, like those which have been ex¬ posed to the dashing of the sea. This crumbling part produces the Solidago vir- gaurea, and Vaccinium myrtillus. Upon the front of the parish school is the fol¬ lowing inscription. “ God protect this public good, a school where once a chapel stood.” At this village is a small inn. (2m. be¬ yond, on the 1. is a road to Llanfyllin, through Llanymynech, 15m.) Pass Sancl- ford-hcath, Sandford-mill, on the 1. War- brook, beyond on the 1. Prado, (Pest Felton, 4m. 7f. Queen’s Head, 'if. on the r. to Whittington, 2m. Cross the Ellesmere Ca¬ nal, see the Plouse of Industry on the 1. Osw estry, 3m. 3f. On the road to and near Welsh Pool is the village of Bultington; the Severn pas¬ ses not far distant, over which is a stone bridge, where the English obtained a de¬ cisive victory over the Danish army, head¬ ed by Hesten in the year 894. Alfred’s generals here surrounded and closely blockaded ,it. The horrors of, famine at length inspired the Danes to attempt cut¬ ting their.way through the Saxons, when t)iey were nearly all slaughtered. On the road side grows the Artemisia absinthium, or worm-wood, used by the country peo¬ ple instead of hops. Dr. Stokes says that this plant has the peculiar property of des¬ troying ascescency in beer, when grown hard for want of hops. Mr. Pennant co eluded his third tour by an excursion hence to Caer Caradoc , near Church-Stretton, a post of the celebrated british hero Caractacus . He went over the new bridge, passed by Conclover, a hand¬ some house for it’s time, built by sir Tho. Owens, who died in 1598, one of the judges of the king’s bench. It is seated at the end of a fine park, from which are a variety of beautiful views; it is now pos¬ sessed by N. O. Smyth Owen, esq. At a short distance from Condover is Pitch- ford, the seat of Adam Ottley, esq. an an¬ cient and venerable timber-house, with a hall, suitably furnished with helmets, cuirasses, and broad swords Here is a portrait of Francis Willoughby, esq. the naturalist, painted in 1659, at the age of 13. He was heir to the magnificent house of Wollaston, near Nottingham. After pass¬ ing his short but amiable life in instruc¬ tive travels, and the study of nature, he was snatched in 1672, at the age of 37, by a fatal pleurisy. Near the house is a pond which flings up, in hot weather, a large portion of strong bitumen, resembling pitch. Near the 8th milestone from Shrewsbury is Longnor, the house of Jos. Pimley, esq. Near it is Longnor-hall, the seat of Robert Corbet, esq. It is a good brick house, built in 1670, seated in a pretty vale, commanding a fine view of Caer Caradoc, and Lawly'-hilL The por¬ trait of the founder is in the house. Here is an admirable portrait of Margaret, wi¬ dow of James earl of Salisbury, by Kneller. Her daughter lady Margaret, by the same painter. A spirited half length of lady Mildred, youngest daughter of Margaret countess of Salisbury, and wife to sir Uve- dale Corbet, son of sir Richard. A pleas¬ ing picture of her daughter Elizabeth, painted in France by lc Garde, She died unmarried of a cancer in her breast, in 1195 StiREWSBURV. 119 i 724-, on whom Popd wrote an epitaph, and frdwn defiance on thee.' An exquisite picture b^ an unknown Soldier i ibad arms; , - , had neighing steeds to whirl my iron cars; hand, of Christ raistrig Lazarus: A large had wealth, dqminiop. Dost thou wonder, Roman, picture of St. Peter denying his Lord, fine- I'fodght (o save'them ? Whaf if Csesar aims ly executed by Gerard Honthurst. From to Wrd it universal o’er the world, Leh'gn'or; mf. Pennantwisifed Caer Caradoif . > * ba “ ,he world ‘»“ el T couoh a< Ca!Si ' rt foo, - stoo ‘’ After a ride of 3m.’’ says he, “ I fell ac- Battlefield, distant 4m. is famed on ac¬ cidentally on the’steepest part, arid, after a laborious clamber up a green and smooth asCent, now and then mixed with small fragments of lava, I reached the summit, impeded a little by the first ditch and ram- count of a battle where Hotspur, son of the earl of Northumberland, perished, which, like that of Bbsworth, has been immortaliz¬ ed by the magic pen of Shakespeare. While Hotspur was waiting at Shrewsbury for part, in a place, wherefrom the exceeding' Owen Glyndwr’s assistance, the rapid steepness, they seemed totally unncces- approach of Henry obliged him to risk a sary. A little higher is a second ditch, battle without them, who exposed himself with a vast agger of stones, now sodded in the hbttest part of the fight. Percy over. The area is irregular, of father con¬ siderable extent. Upon the more accessi¬ ble side are 3 fosses and ramparts. The entrance and approach are very conspicu¬ ous, and may be travelled on horse-back. The area slopes upwards, and ends in a peak. Notwithstanding this place is styled Ca^r Caradoc, it certainly is not that at¬ tacked by Ostorius, described by Tacitus. [The learned editor of Camden places it at CoTn all Knoll Camp, or at Gaer Ditches, about lm. n. of Brampton Brian.—Vide Taciti Annal. lib. xii.] Formerly a socic- bravely supported his fame, and Douglas appeared this day his rival. The latter with Hotspur by his side penetrated to the spot where the royal standard was display¬ ed, but they did not encounter Henry for he had accoutered some of his captains in the royal garb. At length the death of' Hotspur, by an unknown hand, decided the victory, and the royalists prevailed. 6000 private soldiers, and 2300'gcntlemen are said to have fallen on this day. Doug¬ las was taken prisoner and treated with some courtesy, but the earl of Worcester, ty of gentlemen struck with admiration of Northumberland’s brother, was consider- the virtue of Caractacus, met annually up¬ on this hill, to celebrate his name in prose and verse.” The following notice of such meeting occurs in the Gentleman’s Maga¬ zine for August, 1755. “Tuesday 5th. The Caractacusian Society was held, ac¬ cording to annual custom, upon that mem¬ orable mount Caer Caradoc, in the lord- ship of Cardington ; a name derived from Caractacus, that heroic british prince who made a noble resistance upon the summit of this hill, against Ostorius, propraetor of the Romans, in the year 53, and whose cd a rebel and beheaded. The dead body of Hotspur, which had been buried in a field, was savagely placed between mill¬ stones, and quartered and beheaded. On this fatal spot Henry, or rather Roger Ive, clerk, founded a small college, for a mas¬ ter, and 5 secular canons, who were to pray for the souls of the deceased. On the road to Wenlock the country becomes hilly. The Wrekin on the 1. bears the traveller company most of the way. It’s greatest extent stretches in the line of the Severn; where at'it’s foot stand the kingly virtues shone forth in native great- ruins of Buildwas-abbcy. In the middle of ness, even when a captive in chains, be¬ fore Claudius at Rome."’ Masdn has made Caractacus to address the roman general who held him captive, as follows. “Romans! methinks the malacd of your tyrant might furnish heavier chains. Old as I am, and withered as you see these war-worn iimbs, . trust me, they shall support the weightiest load injustice dares impose. Proud crested soldier! who seem’st the master mover in this business, say, dost thou read less terror on my brow tl;an when thou met’st me ii\ the field of war. heading my nations! No, my free born soul has scorn still left to sparkle through these eyes, the road is an oak of singular beauty and dimensions, called the Lady-oak. On this tract is a remarkable piece of scenery called Wenlock-edge. It is seen running athwart the country like a long black ridge, covered with wood. Arriving at the Spot a winding road is cut through it. At¬ taining the summit there is no descent on the other side, this long ridge being the slope only of one of those grand, natural terraces, by which one tract of county sometimes descends into another.—Gilpin. To Ellesmere, pass Crdsshill, past Marl- H9i SHREWSBURY, scot, on the r. and Almond-park on the 1., to Albrigliton, 3m. 7f. (On the 1. is a road to Ellesmere through Meriton, which joins the present road again at Middle.) Ar¬ mour-hill, 2£m. (on the r. Sansaw-hill, rev. Laurence P. Gardner, (on the t. to Wem, 4|m.) Middle, ljm., Burlton, lm. 3f. Cock- shutt, inn. Golden-lion, 2£m. (lm. on the 1. is Petton-hall, — Sparling, esq. Pass Croesmere on the r. on the 1. Smithy moor, ljm. further White mere; at Spoon-hill, cross the Whitchurch branch of the Elles¬ mere canal. On the r. is a road to IVhit- church, 12m. by way of the village of iVetv- ton , on the 1. Oakley-park, Welsh Hampton, and Breadon-heath. A few miles n-e. fol¬ lowing a road to the r., about lm. before Ellesmere is reached, is the village of Hanmere, admired for it’s charming situa¬ tion. The handsome church contains a monument to sir Thomas Hanmer, once speaker in the house of commons, and the commentator on Shakspeare, who died Oct. 2,1777, aged 77.) Ellesmere, 45111 . On the road to Welsh Pool, cross the Severn to Frankwell, 3f. Onslow-hall, on the 1. rev. John Wild, 2m. Dint-hill, Tho. Wingfield, jun. esq. §m. (1 m. further leave on the r. at Ford, the seats of Mrs. Amler, and Francis Waring, esq.) Cross-gates, 2m. 6 f. On the r. is a road to Llanvilling, 10m.) Rowlon, lm. 5f. Roaiton-hall. Rich. Lyster, esq. Cross Wattlesborough Com¬ mon to Woolasion, and Coal-pits on the r. 3m. from Rowton. (§m. further the Rose and Crown.) Butlington, 7m. If. (Near the bridge on the 1. is a road to Montgomery, 8 |m. which runs near and frequently in¬ tersects OfFa’s Dyke, almost all the way. Cross the Severn river and the Ellesmere canal. On the r. to Oswestry, 13fm. Welshpool, l|m. To LlanfyLL itfc pass as above to Cross¬ gates, 5m. If. (on the 1. to Welshpool, 135 m.) Alberbury, 35 m. (a little beyond on the r. is Loton, sir Robert Leighton, bart. (Pass Coedwae-gate, Crew-green, with the Severn on the r. where at Cymmerau, the Fyrnwy falls into it, jm. below Mel- verley. Leave Crigion Chapel and hall, -|m. to the 1. with Moel y Golf a, on the sum¬ mit of which is a pillar 'erected to the honour of lord Rodney. Cross the Severn to Llandrinio, 4£m. (Near the bridge on the 1. is Llandrinio-hall, — Temple, esq. About lm. beyond the road turns to the r. with Rusnanl on the 1. and the Street SNOWDON. 1196 and Uandysilso, on the r. to Pentreheylw 3m. (near which is the New Bridge across the Fyrnwy to Llanymynech, distant lm.) Continue with the fyrnwy on the r. past Waun, and cross it to Llansainlffraid, 5m. On the r. from the bridge is a road to Os¬ westry, 75 m. ( 2 m. further is Llanfechen, with the river Brogan, on the 1. and the river Cain on the r. Bryngwynn, the seat of William Mostyn Owen, esq. lies upon the 1. Pass Can office, to the entrance of Llanfylling where, on the 1 . is Llyiyn, the residence of John HumfFreys, esq. Llan¬ fylling,. 6iiq. To Montgomery, pass Cruckton, 4|m. (on the 1. T. JHarris. esq.) Nox, 7f. Yockle- ton, 7f. Stretton, 1 Jm. West bury, l^m. (lm. on the r. is Whilton, R. Topp, esq.) As¬ ton Pigol, 2 £m. Worthen, lm. 5f. Brocton, 7f. (On the 1. through Minsterley, to Shrewsbury, 12 m.) Weston, Jm. Marion, lm. If. Hockleton, lm. 5f. (Cross the river Ca\raet.)Chirbury , ljm. Montgomery, 3m. The Rev. W. Bingley, ended his Tour at this place. To Llanymynech, 14 miles, Aikin. — Welsh Pool, 18| miles, Evans. — Bishop’s Castle, 20 uliles, Wyndham. — Hawltstone, 12 miles, Skrine. Mr. Pennant’s Account of his third Journey ter¬ minates with an Excursion hence to Caer Cara- doc, near Church Stretton. To Wenlock, 13 miles — Oswestry, 17J miles. — Ellesmere, 165 miles. — Montgomery, 21 miles. — Iron-bridge, 13J miles. — Bridgnorth, 7^ miles. — Llanfylling, 24 miles. — Whitchurch, IftJ miles- From Llanberis to Caernarvon, 10 miles; thence to the summit of Snowdon, 11 miles, Bingley; Hutton. - Beddgelert, Aikin; Warner. - Llanberis to the neighbourhood of Snowdon, Evans. —— Dolbadern Castle, Pennant. -Caernarvon, to the summit of Snowdon, 11 miles. - Beaumaris, 13 miles, Gilpin. SNOWDON, from the Saxon, meaning a snowy hill. The Welsh name Eryri is derived from Mynydd Eryrod, the hill of Eagles. Mr. Pennant derives it from a compound of welsh words, as Creigau’r Eryra, Eagle Rocks. The ridge of Snowdonia is a natural ram- pire, running in rather a bent line from sea to sea, with two rivers for a moat at 1198 1107 SNO.WDON. the back of it, which fall into the sea, one npg, and along the ridge immediately over at Traeth Mawr, the other at Conwy, as the vale of Llanberis, till they come with- if Nature had designed Anglesea for the iry sight of the black, and almost perpen- seat of sovereignty, and Art had likewise dicular rock before mentioned called Clog, lent her aid in securing the passes or wyn Du’r Arddu, with a small lake at it’s avenues leading through them, as Degan- bottom. This will be left about £m. on wy on the Conwy, Caer-hun on the pass his r, and then ascending the steep called of Bwlch y ddau-faen, and a fort at Aber ; Llechwedd y Re, he must direct his course DoLwvnDELAN Castle, Nant Francon s-w. to the well, a place known by the fort; Dolbadern Castle in Nant Peris, and guides, distant from the highest peak of Cedwm in Naot Tall y Uyn; and upon the Snowdon, called Yr Wyddfa, the conspic- broad pass of Traeth mawr the castles of uous, about a mile. The summit of this Harlech and Criccieth, a tower at Casail mountain is not more than 5 or 6 yards in Gyfarch, and a fort at Dolbenmaen. diapieter, round which is a circular wall, The snowdon range commences in the of great use to sit upon, to enjoy the ex- tremendous precipice of Penmaen mawr, tensive prospects around. It is obvious and in a s-w. direction takes in it’s course that as the country ascends gradually on Camedd Llewelyn, the peak of Snowdon, a the sides nearest to the sea, there re- long tract of mountains to the s. of Llan- mains no great precipitate height for what llyfni, and terminates in the lofty and tri- may be called the mountain to appropriate, pie-peaked Reifel (Yr Eifl) the base of The geography therefore of Matthew of which is washed by the waves of Caer- Westminster is not so very erroneous, as narvon Bay. The length of this range by some have imagined when he tells us that following the zig-zag direction of it’s sum- Conwy-castle lies at the foot of Snowdon, mit is 40m. Upon this range the Wyddfa tho’ in fact it is at the distance from the is the highest, it’s altitude above the sea summit of 20m.—Gilpin, being 3568 feet as measured by mr. Evans, Mr. Pennant says, “The mountain from author of the 9 sheets map of N. Wales, the summit, seems propped by 4 buttres- The 2d in height is Camedd Llewelyn, ses, between which are 4 deep cwms, or 3520 feet. What is this altitude in com- hollows; each, excepting one, have one parison of Mount Blanc or Cota Cathe ? or more lakes lodged in it’s distant bot- The former measures 2426 toises or 4852 tom. The nearest was Ffynnon Lius, or yards, and the latter 2434 toises, which is the Green well, lying immediately below ; the greatest height ever ascended by man. the waters of which from this elevation, EXCURSIONS FROM CAERNARVON. appear black and unfathomable, and the From Caernarvon to Cwmy glo Llanrug, edges quite green. Thence is a succcs- distant 4m. the road is good. At this place sion of bottoms, surrounded by the most take boat up the lower Llanberis lake, or lofty and rugged hills, the greatest part of Llyn Padarn; and land upon the little the sides of which are quite mural, and isthmus between the pools. Just below form a most magnificent amphitheatre, the old castle Dolbadern, take a guide. The Wyddfa is on one side ; Crib y Distyll, The ascent this way says mr. Bingley, is so with it’s serrated tops, on another; Crib gradual, that a person mounted on a welsh Coch, a ridge of fiery redness, appears be- poney, might ride veiy nearly up to the neath the preceding; and opposite to it, top. From the castle go to the r. by the is the boundary called the Uechwedd. A- waterfall, Caunant Mawr, the great chasm nother very singular support is y Clawdd up the mountains to a vale called Cwm Cock, rising into a sharp ridge. The view Brwynog. The botanist will undoubtedly from this exalted situation is unbounded, be induced to deviate from the immediate I saw from it, the county of Chester, the route to the foot of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, high hills of Yorkshire, part of the N. of to look for plants mentioned by Llwyd England, Scotland, and Ireland; a plain and Ray, as growing on that rock. If the view of the isle of Man and that of An- pedestrian choose to ascend Clogwyn du’r glesea, lay extended like a map beneath, Arddu he will then be at the distance from with every rivulet visible. I took much the summit of not more than l&m. But pains to see this prospect to advantage; few travellers take this route, choosing sat up at a farm-house on the w. till about rather to proceed up the vale of Cwm Brwy- 12, and walked up the whole way. The 1.199 SNOWDON. 1200 night was remarkably fine and starry. Short intervals of darkness intervened, which was soon dispersed by the dawn of day. The body of the sun appearing most distinctly, with the rotundity of the moon before it, arose high enough to render it’s beams too brilliant for our sight. The sea which bounded the w. part, was gilded by it’s beams 1 ; 1 at first in slender streaks, but at lengthdt glowed with redness. The prospect was disclosed like the gradual drawing up of a curtain in a theatre. We saw more and more till the heat became so powerful, as to attract the mistS ffom the various lakes, which in a slight degree obscured the prospect. The shadow of the' mountain was flung many miles', ind shew¬ ed it’s bicapitated form ; the Wyddfa mak¬ ing one, Crib y Distyil the other head. I counted between 20 and 30 lakes, either in this county or Merionethshire. The day proved so excessively hot, that the jour¬ ney cost me the Skin of the lower part of my face.” At another visit to Snowdon, mr. Pennant gives the following account. “ A vast mist enveloped the whole circuit of the mountain. The prospect down was horrible. 'If gave an idea of numbers of abysses, Concealed by a thick smoke fu¬ riously circulating around us ; very often a gust of wind formed an opening in the clouds, which gave a fine and distinct visto of lake and valley. Sometimes they opened only in one place; at others in many, at once exhibiting a most strange and perplexing sight of water, fields, rocks, or chasms in 50 different places. They then closed in at once, and left us involved in darkness; shortly they would separate again, and fly in wild eddies found the middle of the mountains, and expose in parts, both tops and bases, clear to our view. We descended from this varied scene with great reluctance; but before ■we reached our horses, a thunder-storm overtook us ; it’s rolling among the moun¬ tains was inexpressibly awful; the rain uncommonly heavy ; we remounted our horses, and gained the bottom with great hazard. The little rills, which on our as¬ cent, trickled along the gullies, on the sides of the mountains, were now swelled into torrents; and we and our steeds pas¬ sed with the utmost risk of being swept a- way by these sudden waters. At length we arrived safe, yet wet and weary, to our quarters. ' The stone which composes this, and indeed the greatest part of Snow¬ donia, is excessively hard. Large coarse crystals are often found in the fissures, and very frequently cubicpiritas, the usual attendatits on alpine tracts. These are al¬ so frequented by the rock owzel; a moun¬ tainous bird, and some of the lakes are stocked with char and gwyniads, alpine fish.” Mr. Bitigley says, that he found the view from the summit extensive be¬ yond his expectation; the eye being able to trace,'on a clear day, part of the coast, with the hills of Scotland; the high moun¬ tains of Ingleborough, and Penygent in Yorkshire; beyond these the mountains of Westmorland and Cumberland; and on this side some of the hills of Lancashire. Wheh the atmosphere is very transparent, eveh part of the county of Wicklow, and the whole of the isle of Man, become visi¬ ble. The uncommon alpine plants are chiefly to be found on the e. andN-E. which form the range of rocks, called Clogwyn y Carnedd. Near the top of Snowdon is a spring of fine, clear, well-tasted water, and excessively cold. When the wind blows from' the w. Snowdon is almost al¬ ways completely covered with clouds or mist. And’ even when the day appears favourable, it will, sometimes suddenly become enveloped and remain in that state for several hours. In exploring this mountain it is necessary to start early in the morning in order to rest, and examine the different prospects; to have an expe¬ rienced guide; and some provisions, and liquor, which will bear dilution. It is worth remarking here that a travel¬ ler intent on ascending mountains, should be provided with such nails as M. A. Pic¬ tet, recommends to those who ascend the Glaciers. He observes that “ grass is more slippery than ice, when the sole of the shoe has become smooth by walking over it;” and advises that travellers pro¬ vide themselves with strong shoes, the upper-leather being exceedingly pliable, so that the foot be no where hurt. Rails also of tempered steel must be provided, the tails of which form a screw; their heads not less than 4§ lines in diameter, cut into the form of a square pyramid, which will have two points inconsequence of the notch cut into each for receiving the screw-driver to fix them in the shoes. A number of these nails should be dis¬ posed at equal distances, as near the edge l' 26 l SNOWDON. 1'202 of tile sole as possible without endanger¬ ing the bursting of the leather. 1 ’ EXCURSION FROM LLANBERIS, by the Rev. IV. Bingley. In this excursion to the summit of Snow¬ don I proceeded about a mile beyond Llan¬ beris, and crossing tile brook which runs into the pool, ascended the steep high mountains on the i. After some fatigue, lor the sun shone brightly, and the reflec- ;ion from the rocks was very powerful, -ve arrived atthe first range of rocks which overlook the vale I had left. In a hollow on these mountains I came to a pool called Ffynrton Freeh, the spotted well. Here I 'onnd Subularia aquatica, Isoetes lacus- ris, and Lobelia dortmanna, growing in iuch abundance as almost to cover the ottom. Hence I continued my journey op another steep, and from it’s top saw 2 ither pools in a Vale at a great depth be- ow, called Llyn Llwydazti, the dusky pool, rnd the other, much smaller, Llyn y Cwm Glus, the blue pool in the hollow. The forme'r has in it a small island, the haunt of black-backed g^ulls, during their breed- ng season. I did not descend, as there seemed nothing about them likely to re- :oay me for the trouble, but proceeded on¬ ward for about l£m. along the sloping sides of the mountains, till I came to a lollow called th ick Git s; whence I as- rended, once again, to the summit of the monarch of the British Alps. From the :op of the first mountains, after leaving Llanberis, till I came within sight of Llyn Llwydavv, the scenery all the way was rwfully rude. It was one continued series af rocks, infinitely varied in their form. The nimble-footed sheep which brouzed rn their dark sides, and skipped along their iremer.dous precipices, looked down up- an us with the utmost composure. In >ome places the rocks, overhanging the path, seemed ready to start from their beds, threatening destruction to the trav- eller who had dared to intersect their ;loomy shade. The latter part of this ex- :ursion along the sides of mountains, was rather unpleasant. The stones which I had to traverse for above a mile were so small and loose as at every step to give way, rendering the walking not only tire¬ some but sometimes very dangerous. The scenery, tho’ wild, was uninteresting. The hollow beneath, hemmed in by the ;loomy mountains around, was from some points of view rAfher grand, but tliis Yell far shbrt of what I had passed. The light clouds swept briskly over the moun¬ tains, sometimes entirely obscuring them, and at others shewing their serrated tops visible through the thinness of the mist. Among the higher rocks I observed the black Ouzel, Turdus torquatus, of Lin¬ naeus; not unusually an inhabitant of these alpine regions. I descended from Snowdon at this time along what may be denominated a mountain stair-case, which lies down the rocks immediately over the village of Llanberis. This road was al¬ together so very steep and tiresome, that I should at any time prefer going a few miles round to venturing down it again. EXCURSION FROM LLYN CWYLLYN, By the Rev. IV. Bingley. Upon the banks of Llyn Cwyllyn, the largest of the lakes on the road from Bedd- gelart to Caernarvon, is a small public- house kept by Mrs. Morton, who engages to supply guides to Snowdon. Her ex¬ pectations run as high as 7s. for attending a single person, and from a party 5s. each. The guides from Beddgelart are less ex¬ orbitant. At this time I chose, as the place of my outset, the cottage of the mountain guide, near l.lyn Cwellyn, anciently called Llyn Tarddenni, a pool about 6m. from Caernarvon on the side of the road leading to Beddgelart. We first went along some meadows which extend up the side of the mountain for about jm. Leaving these after some time, I came to liwlch Civm Brwynog, a kind of gap betwixt two moun¬ tains, which overlook that vale. This hollow is reckoned half way to the top, and persons who come on horseback usu¬ ally ride thus far, leaving their horses here to the care of their servants till they return. I passed by Llynfynnony Gtcos, the servant’s pool, so called from the ser¬ vant of a farmer in the neighbourhood be¬ ing drowned there as he was washing some sheep. The road then lay along a steep ridge. This ascent is much more rocky and tiresome than that from Dol- badern. In one part I passed for nearly £m. over immense masses of rock, lying upon each other in almost every direction, and entirely destitute of vegetation. The sledgeway to the copper-mine, will, how¬ ever, now have done away all these in¬ conveniences.” Mr. Pennant, describing his excursion 1203 SNOWDON. 120 to the summit of Snowdon from Nantberis says, “ In the course of pur ascent, saw on our 1. above the cwm, Mpel y Cyng- horion , or the hill of council. Pass through Bwlch y Maes Cwm, and skirt the side of Snowdon, till we reach Bwlch y cwm Brwy- nog, where the ascent becomes difficult, on account of it’s vast steepness. We be¬ gan a toilsome march, clambering among the rocks. On the 1. were the precipices over Cwm Brwynog, with Llyn du yr Ardd- wy at their feet. On our r. were those over the small lakes Llynglas, Llyn y Nadroedd, and Uyn cock. The last is the highest upon this side the mountain. This space be¬ tween precipice and precipice, formed a shoot, and no very agreeable isthmus, till we reached a vast expanse, which gave us some respite, before we laboured up another series of broken crags; after these is a second smooth tract, which reaches almost to Y Widdfa, or the summit. Caernarvon is 7m. distant from the little public-house of the guide; for a descrip¬ tion of what is remarkable on the road, see Beddgelart. Plants. On Clogwyny garnedd are the following plants. Anthericum serotinum, Serratula alpina, Cerastium alpinum, C. latifolium, Saxifraga stellaris, S. nivalis, S. oppositifolium. Lychnis alpina, Cyathea fragilis, 3- Asplenium septentrionale, Pteris crispa, Papaver cambricum, Ranun¬ culus acris, Phascum montanum, Viola alpina, Geum rivale, Dryas octopetala, Saxifraga aizoides, Juniperus communis, and var. 3. Poa cassia, Festuca rubra, Are- naria verna, Cochfearia officinalis, Asple¬ nium viride, Rumex digynus, Thalictrum alpinum ; in clefts in the higher parts, As- pidium lonchitis; upon a moist black rock, almost at the top, facing the n-w. above the lower lake, Polypodium arvonicum. On Clogwyn du yr Arddu, Arabis hispida, A. hispida, 3, Rubus saxitalis, Saxifraga nivalis, Cerastium alpinum. Near Cwm Brwynog, in a boggy flat, Juncus squar- rosus, Scirpus caespitosus, Schaenus nigri¬ cans, Agrostis vulgaris, Poa alpina, and Hieracium alpinum. On the n. side of Yrwyddfa, Cerastium alpinum. On moist rocks, Cochlearia officinalis, 3* On the highest rocks, Salix herbacea. In various parts, Lycopodium selago, Pteris crispa. EXCURSION FROM BEDDGELART. By the Rev. W. Bingley. The distance to the summit of Snowdon hence being reckoned not less than 6ir and a lady being one of the party, it wa thought best for her to ride as far as *h could without danger, and for the rest t walk. In this manner therefore we se out, beginning our mountain journey b; turning to the r. from the Caernarvoi road, at the distance of about 2|m. fron the village. We left the horse at a cottagi about half way up, whence taking a bottl of milk to mix with some rum we hai brought with us, we continued our rout' over a series of pointed and craggy rocks Stopping at different times to rest, we en joyed to the utmost, the prospects whicl by degrees were opening around us. Caci narvon and the Isle of Anglesey, aided b the brightness of the morning, were see to great advantage ; and Llyn Cwellyn be low us, shaded by the vast Mynydd Mawi with Castell Cidwm at it’s foot, appeare extremely beautiful. In ascending, th mountains which from below seemed c an immense height, began now to appes beneath us ; the lakes and vallies becam more exposed, and the little rills and mouc tain streams by degrees became all visibl to us, like silver lines intersecting th hollows around. We now approached most tremendous ridge, over which w had to pass, called Clawdd Coch, or the re. ridge or rampart. This narrow pass, no more than 10 or 12 feet across, and 2 o 300 yards in length, was so steep that thi eye reached on each side down the whok extent of the mountain. And I am firm! persuaded that, in some parts of it, if ; person held a large stone in each hand and let them both fall at once, each woult roll above a ^m. and thus, when they stop ped, be more than lim. asunder. The lad' who was with us passed this ridge withou the smallest signs of fear or trepidation In the hollow on the 1. are four small pool called Llyn Cock, the red pool; Llyn : Nadroedd , the adder’s pool; Llyn Gicas the blue pool, and Llyn Ffynnony Guxis, thi servant’s pool. Soon after we had passei Clawdd Coch, we became immersed inligh clouds, till we arrived at the summit when a single gleam of sunshine, whicl lasted but for a moment, presented u with the majestic scenery on the vv. 1 however only served to tantalize us, for smart gust of wind obscured us again i clouds. We now sheltered ourselves fror the cold under some of the projectir 205 SNOWJDON. 1206 )cks near the top, and ate our dinners, matching with apxiety the dark shades in re clouds, in hopes that a separation light take place, and once more be elighted with a sight of the grandeur a- aund us. We did not wait in vain, for le clouds by degrees cleared away, and ;ft us at full liberty to admire the nuraer- us beauties in this vast expansive scene, 'he steep rock of Clogwyn y Garnedd, the readful precipices of which are, some of lem above 200 yards in perpendicular eight, and the whole rock, a senes of recipices, was an object which first struck iy companions with terror. We now tood on a point which commanded the /hole dome of the sky. The prospects elow, each of which we had before con- idered separately as a great scene, were ow only miniature parts of the immense indscape. We had around us such a nu¬ merous variety of mountains, valleys, akes and streams, each receding behind he other, and bounded only by the far istant horizon, that the eye almost strain- J 'tself with looking upon them. These aajestic prospects were soon shut from ur sight by the gathering clouds, which ow began to close in much heavier than hey had done before, and it was in vain hat we waited nearly an hour for another ipening; we were therefore at length ibliged to descend, despairing of being ;ratified any more, with these sublime hews. We again passed Clawdd Coch, ind soon afterwards, turing to the 1. de- ccnded into the mountain vale, called 'uim Llan. This vale extends towards inowdon, the summit of which is finely risible between intervening mountains. Trees issuing out of rocky clifts relieve he eye from dull monotony, and a neat nodern mansion, embosomed in woods, .vith a small lawn in front, forms a fine dose to the upper end of the lake. The nountains here converge, but soon re- :ede, and by following hence the course >f a stream were introduced to another .ake called Llyn Gwynant. This little rivu- .et entertained us much in it’s descent, by being frequently thrown over low rocks, ind forming small, but sometimes elegant cascades After 2 hours walking we came into the pleasing vale of Nant Gwynant, the vale I had with so much pleasure tra¬ versed a day or two before, and passing Uyn y Dinas and Dinas Emrys, we soon reached Beddgelart, somewhat fatigued with our long walk.” Ascending 3m. on the road from Bedd- gelert to Caernarvon, before the lake of Cwellyn is approached, upon a craggy piece of rock near the summit of Snowdon on the r. below a narrow ridge opposite the side near which is a lake, are cubic piritae found under the feet of pillar-shap¬ ed parts of the rock. The ascent most frequented is from Llyn Cwellyn, [see col. 1202.] but this route is very boggy and wet in some places, and extremely rocky and stony in others. The distance is the same as from Dolbadern castle. Another ascent begins about 3m. on the Caernar¬ von side of the Beddgelart road; but is extremely steep, and the ridge Clawdd Coch, along which you must ascend, is not above 2 yards wide for a considerable way. Mr. Warner appears to have taken an unusual direction up this moun¬ tain, ascending from Nant Gwynant, keep¬ ing to the 1. of V Aran mountain, above Cwm Llan, and passing the lofty Llidiaw. This route required the toil of two hours, up a tremendously rugged steep. AN EXCURSION IN THE VICINITY OF SNOWDON. By the Rev. J. Evans. We were in the midst of Snowdonia, a range of mountains from Conwy to the sea at Aberdaron, in a direction nearly from n-e. to n-w.j and unlike other mountains, they are pile upon pile, or groups of cliffs as they gradually ascend from each ex¬ tremity to the centre. Snowdon, the com¬ mon escarpment, or declivity, fronts the Menai; and ranges in a parallel line with it. The escarpment of particular moun¬ tains generally depends on the inclination of the strata. The principal are Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewelyn, Trefaen, Moel Siabod, the 2 Glyders, the 2 Llyders, Moel Llyfni, and Moel Mynydd Nant; all emu¬ lous to support their superior and father Snowdon ; yet his proud peaks of Crib y distyll, and Y Wyddfa, appear scarcely to outrival some of the summits which sur¬ round them. Carnedd Llewelyn ranges next, and Moel Siabod the third in emi¬ nence to Snowdon. The rocks which compose the higher part of the chain are principally porphyry, granite, and granitel of Kirwan ; the secondary rocks are chiefr ly home blende, schiller spar, toad-stone, rowley rag, whinstone, schistose mica. 1211 SNOWDON. soms; whence the most limpid brooks and romantic streams the eyes ever beheld roll their waters down the sides of moun¬ tains, or meander in pleasing murmurs through the distant vales, or fall in beau¬ tiful cascades over rocky wears. The manners of the inhabitants of this alpine tract partake of the nature of the country. They may be rude, but they are generous : the severity of their sky renders them har¬ dy ; while the pastoral life mingles a de¬ gree of softness in their character. These alpine Britons, who have seen no better houses, than their own self-built huts; no other country besides their native rocks; and no other sky but their own atmosphere, darkened by clouds and de¬ luged by storms, conceive the whole world to be in like manner formed of the same rough materials. The heavens do not, however, here always put on those unfriendly appearances. The tempest does not always rage, nor the forked light¬ nings continually strike the mountain’s brow. The storms subside ; the sky be¬ comes serene ; and the cheering sun again exhilarates the dreary scenes with his en¬ livening beams. Such are the Cambrian’s head, and such his heart: kindness suc¬ ceeds to anger, and generosity to savage fury. Boldness and intrepidity are char¬ acteristics of the inhabitants of this coun¬ try. A spirit of liberty still warms their bosoms; and they would trample tyrants under their feet.”—The rev. J. Evans’s Tour in North Wales. A considerable vein of copper ore was discovered a few years ago in Cwm Glas Llyn, the hollow of the Blue Pool, near the feet of Clogwyn y Garnedd. It is, however, far less rich or valuable than the Llanberis mine. The proprietors have made a tolerable good sledge path from the Beddgelart road, near Llyn Cwellyn, to Bwlch Glas, a hollow just below the highest point of Snowdon, whence there is a winding foot path down to the mine. Two partners in this concern, have caused a tolerably good mountain horse-path to be made from Gorpwysfa beyond Llan¬ beris, to the mine, which renders the as¬ cent to the summit of Snowdon from Capel Curig and the village of Llanberis perfect, ly easy.—Bingley. Y Maeneu-Hirion, is situated about a mile from Brakh y Ddinas, and is perhaps one of the most remarkable monuments ST. ASAPH. 1212 in all Snowdonia. It is a circular intrench, ment 80 feet in diameter, with 10 stones on the outside placed upon their ends; i the whole of which is enclosed by a stone wall. Near this are 4 other small circles, and the remains of a cromlech. This tract appears to have been much inhabited, for there are many remains of small buildings, such as may have suited the simplicity of former ages. To Caernarvon, 7 mites, thence into Anglesea by the Ferry, Bingley. — Beddgelart, and back, Aikin. — Dolbadern Castle, Hutton; Gilpin. — Back to Caernarvon, from an excursion in Snowdonia, Evans. — Dolbadern Castle, from Beddgelart, 17 miles, Warner. — Beddgelart, Pennant. From Rhuddlan, 5 miles, Pennant. — Denbigh, miles, Bingley; Skrine. - Holywell, 10 miles, Bingley. —— Abergeley, 8 miles, Aikin; Wyndham. - Conwy, 19 miles, Hutton. — Caerwys, 7 miles, Warner. - Diserth, 8 miles, Bingley. - Ruthin, 13| miles, Gilpin. ST. ASAPH in Flintshire, being a bish¬ op’s see has the appellation of a city. It is situated between the streams of the Clwyd and the Elwy in the most fertile part of the vale. It was originally called Llan Elwy, (the church upon the Elwy), and from the circumstance of the hill upon which it stands being called Bryn Paulin, it has been conjectured that this was one of the places where the roman general Paulinus lay encamped in proceeding to Mona. This place is neither remarkable for the handsomeness of it’s brick build, ings, nor the elegance of it’s church, yel standing upon the side of an elevation, the summit of which is occupied by the cathedral, it’s appearance is bold. It con¬ sists of little more than a single street. It's population in 1801 amounted to 1515 in- habitants and 277 houses. The place seems, from it’s ecclesiastical history, to be very ancient. Cyndeyrn Garthwys ap Owain, ap Urien Reged, known in Scotland bettei by the name Kentigern, who was driven from his see at Glasgow, fled to this place, and was patronised by Cadwallon, uncle to Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who assignee him this spot where he built the churcl about the year 560, and founded a college Being recalled to his native country, h( 213 1214 ST. ASAPH. jminated a pious scholar called Asa or saph, his successor. After the norman inquest the outrages that were committed Jterred the bishops from making it a lace of residence, and the revenues '.cheated to the crown. About the mid- £ of the 12th century a clergyman named ilbert was consecrated to the see, and icceeded by Galfrid ap Arthur, common- called Geoffrey of Monmouth In 1247 le bishops of St. Asaph and Bangor were riven from their diocesses, in the wars irried on against the Welsh by the princes t the Anglo Norman dynasty. Pursue re ecclesiastical history of this place in odwin “ de Presulibus, and Willis’s athedrals, or his History of St. Asaph.” ishop Hughes, a descendant from the ibe of Marchudd, was a great benefactor othto the place and see. He died in 1600. le bequeathed land for founding a free rammar school. His successor was the earned William Morgan, an eminent lin- uist and divine. He died in 1604. He /as the principal translator of the Welsh able printed in 1588, and assisted in the nglish version, commonly called “ Queen ilizaheth’s Bible.” Dr. Isaac Barrow re¬ aired the cathedral, and founded an alms ouse for 8 poor widows. Dr. Wm. Bever- Ige held this see in the beginning of the 7th century. He is known as the author f “Thesaurus Theologicus,” 4 vol. 8vo. nd his “Private Thoughts” which are miversally known and valued. He died n 1707, and was interred in St. Paul’s :athedral. His works are contained in 2 olio volumes. The prelate of St. Asaph, it present, is Dr. Wm. Cleaver translated fom the see of Bangor to succeed Dr. Sam. Uorseletj, who died in 1806. The diocese .'ontains 131 churches and chapels, it’s evenue is charged in the king’s books, 187 1. Hr. 8y looking backwards, the single streeted ittle city is seen to occupy the slope of lie hill, at the top of which stands the rathedral, and the intermingled trees and louses, with the little river Clwyd flow- ng at the bottom, under a majestic bridge >f five arches, forming a very beautiful cene. On this road, in a hedge close to he river, about 100 yards above the ford it Rhyd y Ddae Dwfr, on the e. side of the ivcr grows Stellaria nemorum. The scenery from St. Asaph to Den- sigh along the vale of Clwyd is not in- eresting. The lowness of the road and jreat width of the vale, produces no pros¬ pects, except at a woody dell, 3m. dis- ant from St. Asaph, where a gentleman’s seat or two on the r. placed among trees, iffords some picturesque beauties. To Denbigh, the road from St. Asaph, ilong the common called the Row, is ex- remely beautiful. The Elwy runs be- leath lofty banks, finely wooded. At it’s Extremity is Pont yr alii Goch, a handsome aridge of one lofty arch, 85 feet in diame¬ er. The Elwy here takes another direc- ion, running w. and then n. along most •omantic dingles, varied with meadows, woods, and cavernous rocks. Yffynnon r air, (our lady’s well) a fine spring, in- dosed in an angular wall, formerly roofed; ind the ruins of a cross-shaped Chapel, finely overgrown with ivy, are in a deep wooded bottom, not far distant from the Bridge. A fine view of these picturesque ;lens, is obtained from Pencraig, in the grounds of mrs. Jones, Galt-facnnan. At llannerch, about £m. to the e. of the aridge, mr. Pennant stopped to admire the rharming view of the vale of Clwyd. From Tremeirchion-green is a fine view of the whole vale of the w. boundary, and the lofty tract of Snowdon. The middle, from end to end, is enriched with towns and castles; among which rises supreme, the rock of Denbigh, topped with it’s great fortress. In Tremeirchion Church is the mutilated tomb of sir Robert Pounderling. Under a handsome gothic arch lies, a fig- 40 ure of Dafydd Ddu, or the black of Hirad- dug. Underneath is inscribed, “ Hicjacet David ap Roderic ap Madog. In the bot¬ tom, not far distant, lies, half buried in woods, the singular house of Bachygraig. It consists of a vast hall, and parlour: the rest of this structure rises into 6 wonder¬ ful stories, including the cupola; and forms from the second floor the figure of a pyramid. The bricks are admirable, and appear to have been made in Holland. It was built by sir Richard Clough, an emi¬ nent merchant in the reign of queen Eliza¬ beth who arose from a menial situation at Denbigh; apprenticed to sir Thomas Gresham, he became a distinguished mer¬ chant in Antwerp, where he died. His heart was transmitted in an urn to England and deposited in Whitchurch church. The initials of his name are in iron, upon the front, with the date 1567. It is now the property of mrs. Piozzi, but occupied only for farming purposes. In this house are tolerably good portraits of Oliver Crom¬ well, the Pretender, sir Hugh Myddleton, &c. Mr. Pennant here crossed the Clwyd upon Pont yCamhuLl, and turning to the 1. crossed it again at Pont Rhyffydd, in order to search in the parish of Bodfari, for the ancient roman station Varis, but without success. Caerwys was probably it’s site. Bod-Vari may signify a township belong¬ ing to the station Varis. The sole remain¬ ing antiquity is a British post upon a hill to the 1. called Moel y Gacr (the hill of the camp). The district about Maesmynan is singularly fine, consisting > of, detached hills, cloathed with' timber; a charming extent of meadows: and the lofty moun¬ tain Mocl y pare, skirted with trees, con¬ trasting itself to the softer part of the scenery. This place has been called Llys Maes Mynan, where Llewelyn ap Gryf- fydd, last prince of Wales, resided in a house, the foundation of which was, some years since, to be seen in an adjacent mea¬ dow. Quit the turnpike road on the 1.; ford the Wheler; and, after crossing the Clwyd, reach Llewcni. Upon this spot is said to have resided, about the year 720, Marchweithian, one of the 15 tribes, or nobility of N. Wales. This place notwith¬ standing it’s flat situation, commands most pleasing views of the mountains on each side of the vale. The late lion. Thomas Fitz-Mauricc, in order to encourage Ins tenants in Ireland to promote the national 1219 ST. ASAPH. manufacture, received his rents in brown linen, which he brought over tothebleach- mg-house which he had erected here for the purpose, about the year 1780, at the expense of upwards of 20,000 1 .; it is con¬ sidered the most elegant structure of the kind in Europe. For some time about 4000 pieces were annually imported, and bleach¬ ed, and the honourable manufacturer, heedless of peerage, coronets, and blood, regularly attended Chester fairs in person, changing the dignity of a brother of the most noble the marquis of Lansdown into a linen-draper. He acted thus in order that the spirit of trade and manufacture should triumph over the dregs of the feudal system; and that the prejudices of the welsh gentry in favour of long pedigrees of ancestry, to the utter neglect and con¬ tempt of the more laudable pursuits of ag¬ riculture and commerce, should be anni¬ hilated. He was convinced that he de¬ rived more true honour from the title over his linen shop at Chester, i.e. “ Ballymote Manufacture,” than from the most pomp¬ ous motto, in French or Latin, upon his escutcheon. These works are carried on by mr. Dumbell, from Warrington, where muslins, ginghams, and other cotton goods ; diapers, and other linens, are fin¬ ished ready for sale. Whitchurch or St. Marcellus, the parish church of Den¬ bigh, lies about lgm. w. of this house. In the hedges of a wood near the turnpike road to Denbigh grows Campanula trach- elium ; and in a wet ditch upon the r. side of the road, Mentha acutafolia. To Llancollen, after quitting the vale of Clwyd, the country is disagreeable, ly¬ ing over wastes and commons. A pre¬ cipitate descent at length introduces the vale of Crucis. To Arergeley cross the river Elwy, close to the town, the course of which is to the Clwyd. Pass the Deanery and Bryn y celin, on the r. to Cross Foxes, on the 1. 2m. 7f. A little beyond on the r. is Cin- mael-house, and park, the seat of the rev. Edward Hughes. Llan St. Sior, or St. George’s lm. 7f. Al>ergeley,‘im. If. To Denbigh, 5 miles. Pennant: Bingley; Hutton. — Abergeley, 6 J miles, Skrine; Bingley, — Holywell, 10 miles, Aikin. — Rhuddlan, 5 miles, Warner. — Crucis Abbey, 24 miles, Gilpin. ST. DAVIDS. 1220 From Haverfordwest, 16 miles, Barber ; Evans ; Wyndham; Skrine. - Fishguard, 16 miles, Malkin; Fenton. ST. DAVIDS, in Pembrokeshire, once a flourishing city, is now, in appearance, an inconsiderable and poor village, situat¬ ed upon the most w. part of the county, near the promontory called St. David’s head, about l|m from the sea ; called by the britons Ty Ddewi, by the romans Menevia. It’s population in 1801, was 418 houses, 1805 inhabitants. It is pro¬ bable that the roman Manapia did not stand where the present city does, for pious devotees always choose recluse situations. The elaborate dr. Stukeley, in his medalic history of Carausius, has presented us with a series of medals to elucidate his subject. Several of them were struck at the place of Carausius’s birth. Aurelius Victor calls him “ Civis Menapias.” Not far from Porthmawr, the probable site of Old Menapia, there is a place called to this day Carawswdig. Mr. Fenton has ably defended his countryman of Menapia, against the panegyrists of Maximilian and Dioclesian, and declares that however “ vilissime natus,” he might have been, the greater was his merit in triumphing over natural impediment, and every candid mind will allow, that he is a less noble character who inherits hon¬ ours, originally conferred on those who deserved a gibbet, as the reward of atroci¬ ous deeds, than he who by asserting his native dignity, adds brilliancy to honours and titles of his own acquiring. Most writers agree that there was a religious establishment there prior to the time of David instituted by St. Patrick. After a long course of miracle workings however he was dismissed to Ireland, and succeed¬ ed by young David, whose birth was pre¬ destined and according to ancient writers foretold by Gildas Albanius, and the hour of his birth was ushered by such a tempest of thunder and lightning as never before was remembered. His mother Nonnita brought him up at Hen Vynyw. Giraldus dilates floridly on the wonderful endow¬ ments of the growing saint, but ascribes his origin to a furtive embrace. Old Bayle, without mincing the matter, calls David the issue of a welsh prince and Meleria, a vestal virgin, whom he had seduced. All the pedigrees agree that he was the son of a prince of Cardiganshire,, of the ancient 1221 ST. DAVIDS. 1222 regal stock ofCunedda Wledig. The best accounts of this celebrated patron of W ales agree that he was born a. d. 460, was educat¬ ed under the care of his mother, promoted to the priesthood and became a disciple of Paulinus in the Isle of Wight. After some years he returned to a place not far from Old Menapia, called Vallis Rosina; where he founded a monastery. Every one of this institution laboured daily with his hands, according to the apostle’s injunction. He who doth not labour, neither let him eat. They employed no animal in servitude, each performing his enjoined task. Hav¬ ing finished the labour of the field, they returned to the monastery, where they spent the remainder of the day in reading and writing. In the evening at the sound of a bell, they repaired to the church, where they remained till the stars appeared. They then went together to their refectory, eat¬ ing sparingly of bread, with roots or herbs seasoned with salt, and quenching their thirst with milk and water. After supper they continued about three hours employ¬ ed in watchings, prayers, and genuflec¬ tions. During this time they were not permitted to spit, or sneeze, or slumber. After a short repose, they rose at cock- crowing, continuing at prayer till day ap¬ peared. In the early part of this institu¬ tion he met with great annoyance from a heathen Regulus, named Boia, whose cas¬ tle overlooked the vale; but the amiable inoffensiveness of the saint’s life, so much wrought upon and softened the pagan ty¬ rant, that he not only witheld all persecu¬ tion, but settled the vale and other lands upon the monastery. Among the most eminent of David’s disciples, were Teilo, Aedan, alias Madoc, Ismael, Padarn, and Kyned. In this auspicious stage of the institution the pelagian heresey, already suppressed by Germanus, bishop of Aux- crre, and Lupus bishop of Troyes, broke out with renewed zeal. A synod was col¬ lected, and David preached with such power of eloquence that the heresy was confuted and repressed. The tenets of Pelagius were, that every one is directed by his own natural free will to the attain, ing of justice, that infants are born without original sin, being innocent as Adam was before his transgression. That they are baptised, not to the end that they should be free from sin, but that they may, by a- doption, be admitted into the kingdom of God. And tho’ they were not baptised, yet they should enjoy an eternal and hap¬ py life. The decrees of synods David committed to writing with his own hands, depositing the collection among the in¬ valuable archives of his own cathedral, which, with a noble library, have long since perished by age, neglect, and depre¬ dation. All his labours having prospered, blessed with a patriarchal longevity, he ended his days among the faithful, in his beloved retirement, and was buried in his own church, where his shrine for many ages, was frequented by pilgrims of every description, and several crovvned heads. The episcopal establishment of St. Davids, is an additional instance of the perishable nature ofevery thing human, for now a suf¬ fragan itself, once numbered seven suffra¬ gans within it’s metropolitan pale; viz. Worcester, Hereford, Llandaff, Bangor, St. Asaph, Llanbadarn, and Margam. St. Davids, though now the meagre exuviae of what it once was, yet retains a strong outline of it’s former magnificence. The city was finely situated upon a sloping ground facing the sea, at the distance of 2m. It had once streets, lanes, and allies. High street, in which the crossstands, and where once markets were held, was of considerable extent. From this cross the gateway to the episcopal buildings appear, in a low situation. The body of the cathe¬ dral is hidden, but the tower is visible and part of the palace. The country in the distance is wild, exposed, and cheerless. We see small and mean farmhouses, ex¬ tensive but unprofitable sheep-walks, rocky hills, neglected vallies, large en¬ closures, separated by broken walls, and a soil which is every where utterly insuffici¬ ent to conceal it’s nakedness and deformi¬ ty. A craggy eminence on the 1. is the northern extremity of Ramsey island, sepa¬ rated from the main land by a sound of a- bout Ira. in breadth. Two smaller islands, visible in the distance, form part of a clus¬ ter which is called the Bishop and his clerks, and contribute to render the navi¬ gation difficult and hazardous. Thectose includes within it’s embattled wall the venerable cathedral, the episcopal palace, the houses of some of the dignitaries, with skeletons of several in ruins; it was in circuit 1200 yards, and had a walk round, with a crenelled parapet. The entrance was by 4 gateways. This enclosure vs as 1223 rich in buildings, and even in it’s decay¬ ed state, as it suddenly breaks upon the view, from the entrance above the valley, forms a most striking coup d’oeil. The Tower-gate, through which is the princi¬ pal entrance into the close, as leading from the town, and connecting with all the main roads from the interior, consists of a large octagon tower, CO feet in height, with a rich door-way facing the e. end of the church, and opening into the church¬ yard. This building formed the consistory court, and the record office of the see. In the opposite wing, consisting, likewise of a tower, connected with the other by a range of buildings extending over the gate¬ way, where the council chamber and other large apartments, supposed to have beeu appropriate to the mayor of the town. Un¬ der these were the porter’s lodge, on one side the gateway, on the other a prison with a dungeon in the centre, with no other entrance than a circular opening in the floor, covered with a strong grating of iron. A paved road without the church yard wall leads straight from this entrance to the house of the precentor, which ad¬ joins the s. wall of the close, and consists of a handsome hall, with commodious sit¬ ting and lodging rooms, and excellent offices of every kind. The house is re¬ cessed in a court, and the principal rooms built by mr. Archdeacon Holcombe, occu¬ py a front looking upon the little cheerful vale called Merry Vale, through which the Alan glitters, and open to a terrace raised by Chanter Davies, about 80 years ago. To the s. and extending to the close wall, is a field called the Chanter’s Orch¬ ard, with a fish-pond, once an appendage to the palace. These are divided from the precentor’s gardens and the prebendal grounds of Aberarth by the road leading to Patrick’s gate. At the s-w. comer of the said orchard, which the river skirts, there is an arched bridge, and over it a square tower, jutting from the close wall. The bridge is called Pont Cerwyn Dewi, the bridge of David’s brewing vat. The Bishop’s Palace occupied a square space upon the w. side of the river, with four fronts, and exhibit a ruin of prodigious ex¬ tent, of the early pointed architecture, with superb decorations. The grand en¬ trance is through a beautiful gateway now Tuined, and adjoining was the porter’s lodge, opening into a spacious quadrangle. 1224 Directly opposite was an elegant porch with a flight of steps leading into the great hall, the archway of which affords a rare example of an inverted ogee sweep, and above it are two niches richly wrought with statutes in them. This magnificent room is 96 feet by 33, and is lighted by lofty side windows and a curious circular one at the s. end, filled with rich mullions and tra¬ cery. At the s-w. end of the hall wasTa large drawing room ; and more to the w. a range of buildings probably the royal bed-cham¬ bers; The Chapel, (the tower and spire of which built with free-stone are still stand¬ ing,) is connected with the drawing room by a door opening into it, and with the outer court by a stair-case and porch. The n-e. side of the quadrangle was entirely ap¬ propriated to the bishop. The hall was 67 feet by 25, and entered by a a handsome porch and a flight of steps from the court, having at the n. end a large drawing room, and more n. a chapel reaching to the por¬ ter’s lodge. To the e. facing the church there was a range of buildings for the bishop’s bed-chambers, and other private rooms. At the s. end of the bishop’s hall was the kitchen, being an oblong square 36 feet by 28, with a low pillar in the cen¬ tre, from which sprang '4 groins, forming circular divisions, each lessening funnel- wise into chimnies. The rooms within were all lofty, but the walls without were 7 feet higher, forming a parapet all round the buildings, made of a succession of arches wrought chequerwise of purple, and yellow freestone, and the sweep of every arch was enriched with fret-work. This style of architecture characterises the buildings ascribed to bishop Gower, and is observable in Swansea caslle, and parts of the old palace of Llamphey. The defaced statutes of Edward 3 and his queen Philip¬ pa are over the doorway of the principal porch. The basement story is made up of curious and roomy vaults. Opposite to the n-e. side of the episcopal quadrangle, and separated by the avenue from the Porth- gwyn, or the Whitegate, is the house of the archdeacon of St. David’s, within a court entered by a covered gateway, chiefly re¬ built in the time of bishop Watson. Far¬ ther on the n. in the same line, is the arch¬ deacon of Brecon’s house, within a court, entered through a gateway. Over the door are escutcheons, which refer to the time of Henry 7. The builder was Wm. ST. DAVIDS. 122fi 1225 ST. DAVIDS. Walter, then archdeacon of Brecon, who being charged with having begun what he :ould not complete, when he had finished be had inscribed in various parts of the building “ Credite Operibus.” Farther on, in the same direction, is [\\e Chancellor’s 'touse, recessed within a court, with offic¬ es. It has a great hall with a dais or rais¬ ed floor at the end, backed by hanging ;ardens. To the e. of the chancellor’s louse and divided from it by the road lead- ng to Bunning’s gate, is the archdeacon of Cardigan’s ground, with it’s house, a leap of ruins. To the s. of this stands the Treasurer’s house, with it’s offices, grounds md curtilage. It underwent much repa¬ ration in dr. Clavering’s time, of late it has been compressed into a convenient mod¬ ern mansion. A house annexed to the prebend of St. Nicholas Penyfoes, fills the space adjoining the bridge. Crossing the bridge you enter the quadrangle of the cloisters by a door opening from without. The Cloisters were attached to the n. side of the nave of the cathedral. The w. clois¬ ter was formerly occupied by a Free School and Library , it was then removed to the room where now the audit was held, and lastly to the chapter-house. The base¬ ment wall of the Chapelof St. Mary’s Col¬ lege, forms the n. side of the cloisters, from which by a grand ascent of steps, un¬ der and through the first story of a square tower groined at the w. end, there was a fine entrance into the chapel. This Col¬ legiate Chantry was founded by John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, Blanchhiswife, and bishop AdamHoton,conjointly; being endowed by the bishop, with theadvow- son of several churches for the mainte¬ nance of a master and 7 fellows. This col¬ lege stood to the n. of the cloister, bound on the w. by the river Alan. It’s fine re¬ mains indicate that the structure once ranked in the first class of elegance and true proportion. The chapel from e. to w. is 69 feet in length, in breadth 23 feet 9 inches, and the height of the side walls 45 feet. The height of the tower is 70 feet. The whole building was raised over a curious cript, afterwards converted into a charnel house, through which a rill of water passes. Opposite to this precinct, and divided by a narrow passage only, is the vicar’s grounds. What have been thus described compose the ruins of the outer close, the inner contains the cemetery, and more immediate precinct of the Cathe¬ dral. This venerable structure, from some superstitious attachment probably to the spot, was built upon damp boggy ground. The fabric rose much under the auspices of Peter de Leia, who, to make room for his enlargements, excavated the hill till he bared the spring which fed the mois¬ ture. This “origo mali” became the mi¬ raculous Pistyll Dewi, now choaked up with rubbish. The building is cruciform, the transepts nearly in the centre, upon which the great tower wall rises. The principal entrance, never open but on days of ceremonious procession, is at the w. end of the nave, called the Bishop’s door ; that which is more common, is on the s. side, by a porch, with a rich painted arch doorway; in the outer division of the architrave there are small statues, and over the arch 3 larger, intended to represent God, with two kneeling figures. Oppo¬ site this entrance there is another door. The whole is divided into a nave with 2 side aisles, a choir occupying the area of the steeple, a n. and s. transept, and chan¬ cel, with a n. and s. aisle, co-extcnsive with it, and the chapels to the e. except the Ladies’ Chapel. The length of the whole building within the walls, is 307 feet; that of the nave to the entrance into the choir 128g feet; the choir and chancel up to the high altar, 98£ feet; breadth of the nave, within, 694 feet; each transept 47 feet by 33. The entrance into the cathe¬ dral from the w. end, is awfully striking. The nave is finely proportioned yet sim¬ ple, separated from the side aisles by 2 rows of arches, 5 saxon and one pointed, next the w. end. The architecture of this portion is chiefly saxon when beginning to be lost in the early pointed or english order. Some of the arches of the gallery are saxon, but the greater number are nor- man or gothic. The several architraves to the lower and upper arches abound with an infinite variety of diagonals, frets, and foliage. The age of the nave may be re¬ ferred to the time of John ; but the rood- loft bespeaks the era of the 3d Edward, and is a very fine specimen of this part of an ancient cathedral, whether the ele¬ gance of the design or richness of the exe¬ cution be regarded. The elaborate and beautiful roof of the nave is composed of irishoak, said to be proof against worms, and never approached by a spider j but it 1227 ST. DAVIDS. 1228 has partaken of the general decay, many of the smaller decorations having fallen from their places. This roof has been evidently substituted instead of the origi¬ nal groins found to be giving yvay and therefore lowered. Under the 5th arch from the nave from'the w. is the monument of bp. Morgan, which had been concealed for a century among the pews. The tomb is enriched with statues of the apostles, his arms, and an exquisite baso relievo of the Resurrection. At the upper end of the s. aisle, under an arch of singular con¬ struction is the effigy of Geoffery Canton. Under the rood-loft, covered with a ground canopy are 3 recumbent effigies. The principal figure is bp. Gower. The next is said to be chancellor Straclling, 1539; that on the n. side of the porch is treasurer John Lewis, 1541. The choir is uncommonly lofty, occupying the whole area of the tower, which is built upon immense arch¬ es of various orders ; one is saxon once open to the nave but now closed. The eye will be irresistibly attracted by the very rich and elegant design of the e. win¬ dow. The high altar is approached by a gradual ascent. The floor is paved with ornamental tiles, and the roof of wood is painted and enriched with arms of bene¬ factors. In this choir are 28 stalls for the dignitaries, under the seats of which is carved work always ludicrous, sometimes indelicate. The Bishop’s Throne stands at the s-e. angle of the choir, unequalled in workmanship, except by that at Exeter. Almost opposite is the moveable pulpit, standing upon a stone in the pavement. Beyond the screen separating the choir from the chancel, and exactly opposite the entrance to it, is an altar tomb (like prince Arthur’s at Worcester) of Edrrion Tudor, eldest son of Owen Tudor, by queen Catharine, dowager of Henry 5. He was buried atGiey Friars Caermarthen, whence hisremains were removed, and the monu¬ ment brought hither. On the n. side of this tomb is the shrine of St. David, of simple construction, it’s ornaments con¬ sists of 4 quatrefoil openings in a row, upon a plain tomb. Upon the opposite side are the effigies of bps Anselm and Jorwerth. Towards the middle of the chan¬ cel, under plain recesses backed with ele¬ gant wood-work screens, are the monu¬ ments of Rhys ap Gryffydd, prince of S. Wales, and his son Rhys Grug. Their ef¬ figies are in freestone, spiritedly sculp¬ tured. The effigy on the s. side repre¬ sents a man rather advanced in years, in a recumbent attitude, thus attired: upon his head is a singularly shaped helmet, terminating gradually in a sharp edge at the top, and without vizier, the lower part composed of ring armour, which covering the neck down to the shoulders, forms a gorget. Below it is a breast-plate, with an engrailed border. To a handsome belt is suspended a long sword, and his thighs, legs, and feet, are covered with plates of iron. He has also spurs. A lion rampant is sculptured on his breast-plate, and there is an animal of the same species at his feet. With the lord Rhys the principality of S. Wales, fell. While he lived, curtailed and diminished as was his power, yet did that power continue formidable. He was dis¬ tinguished both as an invincible warrior, and profound politician. See his character as drawn by Higden, col. 39. Within the communion rails is the monument of trea¬ surer Lloyd, of Milfield, Cardiganshire, and in the wall a marble tablet to chancel¬ lor Needham. About the year 1720 there were 5 bells in the tower; one about 4 cwt. tolled to prayers. The n. transept is a plain undignified building, a small por¬ tion of which is separated by a screen said to have been a penitentiary. Under a canopy is a plain tomb, having upon each side two quatrefoil perforations, and re¬ cessed niches between. The floor is peo¬ pled with modern grave-stones, which have extirpated those which were ancient. The s. transept is called the Chanters or St. David's Chapel. The present ruin¬ ous part of this structure, which in 1717, was in good repair, suffered during the great rebellion exceedingly, when thelead w'as stripped off. The parts now totally unroofed, are the 2 side aisles of the chan¬ cel and the lady’s chapel; bishop Vaug¬ han’s chapel and the vestibule, have their roofs entire. Two opposite doors lead from the chancel to the unroofed aisles. In the n. aisle facing the door by which you enterit, isaconsiderable flightofsteps, by which you ascend to what was former¬ ly the chapter-house, but now used as a Free School. Under this is a room of the same dimensions, with an elegantly groin¬ ed roof. The side aisles retained marks of groined roofs, windows of fine propor¬ tion, and other decorations. Bishop 1229 ST. DAVIDS. 1230 Vaughan’s Chapel ranks among the most perfect specimens of the florid pointed style. The roof is of freestone, in fine preservation. At the e. end are two most beautiful niches marking the site of the altar between them. On each side is an oblique slit through the wall into the other chapel, perhaps for the purpose of confes¬ sion. The n. and s. entrances had finely carved open screens. The bishop was buried under a plain marble tomb, with his effigy upon a brass plate, and an in¬ scription. The roof of the vestibule to this chapel has in one of the intersections of it’s ribs an escutcheon with sir Rhys ap Thomas’s arms within the garter. Our Lady’s Chapel, finished by bp. David Mar¬ tin was singularly curious, of which a few scattered fragments yet remain upon the floor. In the n. aisle, at the back of David’s shrine, observe a square niche be¬ tween two quatrefoil openings as on the other side, and arched niches lower down. On the s. side under a rich stone pavilion, highly ornamented with pinnacled but¬ tresses, is the monument of bishop David Marlin; and on the other side a recess. Just at the n. entrance of Vaughan’s chap¬ el there is an effigy of an ecclesiastic, much weather-beaten, supposed to be of John Hiol, archdeacon, 1419. On the n. side the aisle, near the end of it, where sir John Wogan founded a chantry, under two sculptured arches, are the effigies of a crusader and priest. On the n. side of the s. aisle, at the entrance into the chapel is a mutilated figure of a crusader; and lower down on the same side, the effigy of a priest, shewn for Giraldus. On the s. side of this aisle, there are 3 canopied monuments; that of a priest may be Giral¬ dus. An ancient building upon the s. side of the cemetery appears to have been a store-room to hold materials for the use of the church ; but after the destruction of the school and library over the w. clois¬ ter, the upper story was fitted up and sup¬ plied it's place, lor two centuries, till it was converted into a chapter house and audit-room by the late mr. Archdeacon Holcombe, who from an ill-directed zeal for innovation, produced what still re¬ mains a sad monument of his total want of taste in architecture. It was moreover injudiciously placed, as it intercepted the view of the finest side of the church as seen from the tower gate of the palace. See the history of the delapidations and renovations of this see in Felton’s Pem¬ brokeshire page 91 to 108. To bp. Gow¬ er our author pays the highest encomiums. “Within the cathedral, '• says he, “nu¬ merous are the elegant decorations which claim him as their author. Besides the rood-loft, already described, a perform¬ ance, that, much as it has felt from the in¬ jury of time, fanatic violence, or the more destructive effect of shameful neg¬ lect, gross ignorance, and gothic innova¬ tion, will ever be admired as one of the most delicately finished specimens of the architecture which characterized the reign of Edward 3. It was not to luxury, splen¬ dour, and state alone that he sacrificed. Tho’ recessed behind the veil of ceremony, yet in all things it was the dignity of the see he consulted and most liberally and judiciously employed it’s revenues to at¬ tain it. He knew authority could not be supported without forms, and that, with¬ out subordination there could be no gov¬ ernment, no law, no happiness. He there¬ fore never suffered a mistaken humility or ill-timed moderation to lower his rank or relax his discipline ; nor when he most appeared to court the applause of this world, was he least inattentive to that which is to come ; for his name appears to statutes and regulations wisely calcu¬ lated to dispel the mists of error, correct vice, and immorality, and by enlarging the household of faith, promote the hon¬ our of God. He was a bishop, not only in his palace and his throne, the remotest corner of the fold of Christ felt the care of their spiritual pastor, and great and good works mark every stage of his prelacy.” The palaces and manor-houses belonging to this see, were St. Davids, Trefdyn, a- bout 6m. from the former, the castle of Llewhaden, and Llanfey, all in Pembroke¬ shire, Llandygwy, in Cardiganshire, Llan- ddei o, and the small manor of Braan, (manerium exile) since called Aberbran facli, near the junction of the river Bran and Usk, in Breconshire, with the granges of Castrum Pontii, or Punch Castle, as it is now called, in Pembrokeshire. The blaze of the splendour of St. Davids, was extin¬ guished by bp. Barlow, who committed every kind of spoil and depredation, both by stripping the palace and the castle of Llewhaden of their leaden roofs, and alie¬ nating the lands. He also, endeavoured to 1231 ST:. DAVIDS. 1232 remove the see to Caermarthen, but he suc¬ ceeded only by removing the residence of the bishops near that town, having left not one of the old accustomed palaces habit¬ able. Farrar began his visitation at the cathedral, determined to resist the enor¬ mities and irregularities which he saw practised ; but he fell a victim to the men whose peculations and crimes he had de¬ tected, who never rested till they pulled him not only out of his bishoprick, but brought him a martyr to the stake. Bp. Milborn, in order to turn the little that was left to account, procured a licence from archbp. Abbott, 1616, to demolish Liew- haden Castle. Thebishop’shall,chapel,cel¬ lar, kitchen, and bakehouse of St. David’s palace, were the only parts that remained tiled. Dr. Richard Davies, in Elizabeth’s time, was also an excessive delapidator, and bp. Lucy filled his cathedral with non¬ residents. Bp. Watson endeavoured to re¬ medy these evils, but sunk under the her¬ culean task. Among the benefactors to this cathedral, Robert Tally repaired the choif and made the stalls anew. Bp. John Morgan, erected the bishop’s throne, dr. Owen Poole made the roof of the nave. Bp: Ottley actively promoted the advance¬ ment of the see, and archdeacon Holcombe was not the least of the benefactors of St. David’s. The arrangement of the present interior of the Precentor’s House was his. To the exterior he gave a new facade to¬ wards the gardens, repaired the terraces, and added a shrubbery and conservatory. The space without the walls he opened, cleansed, and laid out in gardens. He made also anew the ancient vivarium or fish¬ pond. His house was not only open to the clergy and his neighbours, but to every decent stranger. The antiquary and tourist never had to regret the want of a good inn, unless they possessed that churlishness which could decline an invitation offered with a fascinating frankness. His plans, however did not succeed. His taste and judgment were not equal to his passion for building, as appears in the repairs made by him in the exterior of the w. front of the church, which do not accord with the ancient style of the cathedral. He con¬ ceived a plan of repairing and decorating the whole, as well as reviving the College of St. Mary. He instituted a subscription, and took infinite pains in promoting it. His domestic affairs in the mean time Were neglected, large expenses incurred, an'* his difficulties accumulated. The fund which he had raised became exhausted, the subscriptions stagnated, and his misfor¬ tunes crowded so rapidly upon him, that he was compelled to quit a place where he had fondly flattered himself that he should have ended his days. With this re¬ moval his happiness ended, and he fell a victim to domestic misery, to mortifying reflection, and disappointed hopes. Nor did his misfortunes end here, for after his death malevolence became busy with his name. His liberality was branded with extravagance, his conviviality was called intemperance, and his hospitality termed a trap. Those however who occasionally shared the feast of reason with him, know that he possessed the pride and irritability of a Welshman, but he was also naturally generous and social. His hospitality was disinterested and undesigning, the result of a warm open heart, which caused him to delight in beholding a happy human face, and to promote the welfare of all around him was the grand object of his life. In mr. archdeacon Davies, the pre¬ sent residentiary of St. Davids, a benefac¬ tor perhaps exists no way inferior to any of his predecessors; such dispositions ad¬ ded to a handsome private fortune, a taste for literature and polished society, at his ear¬ ly time of life, promise to be a blessing to the district. Thesanctity of St.Davidswas not confined to the limits of the close or city, but the whole parish, called PIwyf ty Ddewi, (the parish of the house of Da¬ vid,) was sown thick with chapels, cros¬ ses, or sainted wells. A College, found¬ ed by bishop Houghton, a.d. 1388, is si¬ tuated on the n. side of the cathedral. It’s architecture is gothic, and the remaining shell of the chapel bespeaks it’s former magnificence. The modern ecclesiastical establishment of St. Davids consists of the bishop, six residentiaries, four archdea¬ cons, and several minor canons. The pre¬ sent residence of the bishop is at Abergwilly, near Caermarthen, a central and pleasant part of his diocese. The Cathedral, how¬ ever, and it’s appendages are kept in ex¬ cellent order; and divine service is per¬ formed in this remote corner, where there are few to witness it, with all the deco¬ rum of the proudest and most frequented choirs. “ Hie etenim angulus est supra Hibernicum mare remotissimus; terra 1234 1233 ST. DAVIDS. >axosa, stenlis; et tntoecunda; nec sylvis vestita, nec fluminibus distincta nec pratis ornata ; ventis solum et procellis semper exposita.” Such is the account which Giraldus has given of this once famous ec¬ clesiastic establishment; “and such I fear, ’’says sir Richard Hoare, “ will every traveller find it on his approach to the wretched village of St. Davids’s, where misery and beggary stare him full in the face, and whence the deficiency of even tolerable accommodations has driven away many an inquisitive tourist and antiqua¬ rian. Once the fame of this celebrated sanctuary was so extraordinary that prin¬ ces came barefooted to it’s shrine; it’s riches were so great, and the offerings to it so abundant, that the monks are said to have divided them every week. It was once the british Loretto ; now, alas ! the Palmyra of saxon antiquity! Inn, Black-Lion. The remains of the chapels of St. Nun, and St. Justinian still exist. The former is situated upon the edge of the cliffs to the s. of the cathedral almost a mile, near a redundant spring arched over. The ruined site of a house at the upper end of the field leading to this chapel, was probably inhabited by the person deputed to take care of the spring. St. Justinian’s Chapel, the work it is said, of bp. Vaug¬ han, exhibits remains of a uniform neat building. Here those who frequented the island of Ramsey usually prayed for a safe passage. Near Porthclais, where Capel y Pistill stood, nothing remains but the sainted Well. Upon this spot tradition says David was born and baptised. Near Porth- mawr, Gvirhyd, and the Precentor’s house wereother chapels; and two more called Henrynwents; the one is situated near Gw- rhytl, the other near a place called Cwmwilig. It is pleasing to reflect that the genius and exertions of the present bishop of St. Da¬ vid’s the right rev. Thomas Burgess, d. d. has projected and formed A Society for promoting Christian Knowledge, and Church Union, in his diocese ; it’s objects are to distribute bibles and common-pray¬ er books, at reduced prices, small religious tracts in welsh and english, gratis, among the poor; to establish libraries for the use of the clergy of the diocese ; to facilitate the means of education to young men in¬ tended for the ministry of the church of England, in the diocese ; to encourage the establishing of English Schools, for the benefit of the poor ; and to promote the Institution of Sunday Schools. These pur¬ poses are carried into effect by annual sub¬ scriptions, 1, for general purposes; 2d, for Exhibitions ; 3, for the building at Llan- ddewi Brefi; for the college library ; for supporting superannuated curates. Sub¬ scriptions are received by the rev. T. Price, Priory-street, Caermarthen. Of St. David’s Mr. Manby, who has written an 8vo. volume containing the history of the parish and an account of it’s antiquities, says “ The air is extremely pure, and the inhabitants live long. The winters are not so cold as in more inland parts. This re¬ sults from it’s situation lying exposed to the sea from every point but from the e. The soil aided by frequentand tempestuous winds, is dry, especially in winter, which renders the air healthy, insomuch that an apothecary could never live in this district by his profession ; it has therefore been found necessary to attach some ecclesias¬ tic perferment to the practice of physic, as an inducement for a medical professor to reside there. The trees here only flour¬ ish when screened from the blasts of the atlantic, the heads of which bend from the blast. The hedges bend in the same way from the s-w. Mr. Manby’s residence was about lm. e. of St. Davids, near Carnochan, upon the side of a bank, “ a situation,’’ says he, “ well adapted to a mind soften¬ ed by sorrow, and a heart filled with an¬ guish ; affording the indulgence of scclu. sion, yet the greatest variety of contrasted and enchanting scenes. In the front of this delightful spot is St. Bride’s bay. Up¬ on the s. extremity of Carnochon farm are some rich traces of ancient fortification, The present plain is 60 yards by 100, ren¬ dered impregnable by nature and art. A- bout^ it’s width is crossed by an impassa¬ ble ditch, formed by nature, of a consider¬ able breadth, with nearly perpendicular sides to the level of the sea; the whole flanked by four parallel ramparts; at the end of the ditch, under the remainder of the peninsula, is a perforation, sufficient¬ ly large to admit a person to walk through the rock.” It is at this city where the roman road called Julia Strata is said to have terminat¬ ed, and the united labours of mr. Coxe and mr. Lemon, have ascertained it’s course. The 11th iter of Richard’s Itin¬ erary and the 12th and 14th of Antonine 1235 ST. DAVIDS. 1236 trace the Julia Strata from Bath across the Severn through Caenvent and Caerleon. From Bath it ran by a small lane called Weston-lane, leavingthe church of Weston to the n. and instead of turning up with the present road at the end of the village towards Lansdown, continued straight through the valley, now an obscure track, till it joined the present horse-road to N. Stoke. It ascended the hill, leaving Kil- weston beacon on the 1. and passing under the british post on North Stoke brow, en¬ tered the village of North Stoke, by the name of the Foss-road; but keeping on the edge of the hill, and leaving the village to the r. descended with a sweep to the pres¬ ent upper turnpike-road, which it joined about £m. before it reached Bitton, where, near the confluence of the Boyd with the Avon, was the station of Trajectus. From Bitton it continued with the present upper Bristol turnpike as far as the new church of St. George, near Bristol, thence cross¬ ed the flat ground, leaving the new church of St. Paul about a furlong to the 1. and joined the road to Redlands, about a furlong from Stoke Croft turnpike- After passing Redland-court, it went straight forw r ard, nearly in the track of a small road, which still partly exists, leaving the pre¬ sent great road to the r. and ascending Durdham-down, at the back of mr. Bau- beney’s house, come on the hill near the lime-kiln-house. The roman street now crossing the road from Clifton to Redland, near the tree on which is placed a direc¬ tion post, is tolerably conspicuous until it falls into the turnpike from Shirehampton, which it crosses also at the very spot where it is joined by the road from the Wells. From this place it is still highly raised and visible over the remainder of Durdham Dozen, and running between Durdham lodge and stable, crosses a field or two, leaving another house called Pigeon pie, a few yards to the 1. continues under the wall of Sneed-park, mounts the hill, and gently descending enters the great station of Sea-mills, or Abone. From Ahone pav¬ ed remains of the road still exist, as it pas¬ ses a farm-house of lord de Clifford’s. It then runs through some enclosures, enters the Shirehampton turnpike, near the end of lord de Clifford’s grounds ; and continu¬ ing between the inn on King’s Weston- hill, and lord de Clifford’s house, descends between the mansion and the stables, and passes straight by Madam-farm, till it joint the banks of the Severn. Hence was the passage into Wales, and part of the road, from the opposite side of the river to Caer. went (the Venta Silurum) existed still paved only a few years ago. The place of disembarkation appears to have been Cal- decot-pill; yet no causeway is observable between this place and Cacrwent till the brook Nedern is passed in the vicinity of that town. [Mr. Coxe has conjectured that from Caldecot pill the Julia Strata took the direction of what is now a broad-way to a place called the Tump ; it’s course is lost in the village of Caldicot, but re-ap. pears a little beyond the church, opposite to the ruins of the castle and is the bye road leading to Caerwent; it runs over the natural rock, in a straight line for a- bove a mile, when it is interrupted by several lime-kilns. From this place to the brook Nedern no farther traces have been discovered.] Between the brook and the e. gate vestiges of an ancient road are per¬ ceptible, particularly at Cat’s-ash, a public house on the 1. of the high road, 2m. from Caerleon, whence a branch led to the Usk, on the r. bank of the river of that name, where mr. Coxe and mr. Evans traced it’s course. From the w. gate of Caerleon, it went parallel to thewalls ; then turned at right angles to the w. and in a few hun¬ dred yards turned again at right angles, continued s. for a short distance, in which line two sepulchral stones bearing roman inscriptions have been found. One of which is in mr. Butler’s cellar at Caerleon. It then resumed a w. direction, proceeded under the encampment of the Lodge, cros¬ sed a brook near some old walls, and sud¬ denly took a s. course, continued in a straight line for about a mile, passing near two spots where sepulchral inscriptions were discovered, and then bent round the pill.—Coxe’s Monmouthshire, intio. 21. While at St. Davids, mr. Fenton explor¬ ed the neighbourhood of Porthmaw r lor the station of the roman Menevia, and af- ter surveying a small circular earth-work, which he recollected seeing when lm. from the town, and passing by Trefarchan, he left Penarthyr to the 1. entered the sandy tract called the Burrows, it being there probably that Old Menajna is buried, but he traversed them in different direc¬ tions down to Porthmawr, without success. Cross a small rill to explore the promon- 237 ary called St. David’s Head, a wild and ecluded scene, open to the ocean, here ncommonly turbulent from the conflu- ncc of islands and sunk rocks. Cam Judw present a sublime front at the en- ance. At the foot of the mountain is hewn the celebrated rocking stone, now fFit’s poise. In every direction occur an¬ ient inclosures of various shape and di- tension. Pass a rampart of loose stones attending across the ridge from one sea > the other; a little farther on you will teet with a cromlech, being a flat stone esting upon one upright. Passing this you ome to a vast work called Clawdd y Mil- >yr, the fence of the soldiers, a rampart of oose stones of great breadth and height. Vithin is a curious hollow amid the rude he'.ter of the broken heights of Old Octo- itarum towards the sea, and some smaller ioints of rock towards the entrance upon he land side, are 7 or 8 circles formed by line of rude stones with an entrance to :ach. The immediate head here projects nto the sea, At low water, from a ledge >f rocks at it's base, gain a fine view of his tremendous and picturesque cape, ,ind pick up in the lava of loose grit and par, washed from the interstices of the ock, large and beautfulchrystals, superior o those of St. Vincent’s rocks, and capable >f a higher polish than any in the kingdom, n pursuing this rocky descent there is on he way a remarkable natural cavern call- :d Ogof Gafyr, the cave of the goats, where heep, in winter, seek shelter. Returning, nr. Fenton searched again for old Mena- oia among the burrows, in vain. In shel- er of a land rock stands the farm-house Cara'jjswdick, perhaps once the haunt of ? arausius; thence take a pleasing round ay Justinian’s Chapel to view Ramsay, the slands, and Bride’s Bay, enlivened by toasters at anchor, and others under way. Turn to the 1. and after passing Rhosson, leave Clegyr Boia to the r. the capital of the district usurped by that petty Regulus, from whom the place derives it’s name. Boia’s camp overhung the vale through which the Alan winded, after washing the cathedral walls. From this spot the pagan tyrant overlooked the Anchorite’s calm retirement, with invidious malignity. A 'Circular earth-work of considerable height still marks the passage into his territories. A more successful usurper named Leschi, landed at a little creek called from him 1238 Porthleschi, and put Boia to death. Hence to Porthclais, where the river Alan, which rises at Llandygige fach in the same parish, falls into the sea. A pier has been con¬ structed here at an early period composed of most durable masonry; it is the nearest accessible creek to St. Davids. Ramsey Island is separated from the coast by a narrow strait. It is all high ground, but at it’s two extremities rise 2 mountains of great height giving it a very grand appearance. From a cove where the boat is usually moored, ascend by a flight of irregular rocky steps, and pass over a grassy slope to the plain. Across the narrowest part of the island between the 2 mountains is a place called the Or¬ gan, from the noise of the birds frequent¬ ing these cliffs. The Peregrine Falcon has long been an inhabitant of this island. Pas¬ sing over a heath, to the n. of the larger mountain, appears the Choir, an amphi¬ theatre of rocks, precipitous and very high, thickly inhabited by birds. Mr. Fenton ascended the highest points of the great mountain at the s-e. end of the island, which terminate in cams. Smaller earns are hence discernable upon the lower mountain. Observe upon the sides of the hill beneath lines of ancient inclosure, andaninterestingviewof the whole island, indented into bays. The otherobjects from this summit are the Bishop and his Clerks ; the city and cathedral of St. Davids, St. David’s Head, the Sound, Bride’s Bay, and the whole county of Pembroke to the Pres- selly Hills. There is much arable and pasture land upon this island, which is a- bundantly supplied with freshwater, in¬ somuch that the principal stream being collected into a dam turns a corn mill. It’s broadest part is about lm.over, it’s mean length S. The herbage is very sweet, dutch clover predominating over the other species of giass, intermixed with thyme, so that the cheese made here was consid¬ ered excellent. On the s-e. corner of the island there appears a stratum indicative of coal. The rats have nearly overpower¬ ed the rabbits, which were once very nu¬ merous, and the puffins are few. The old farm house is in ruins, and a new one is built near. In digging the foundation several stone coffins were found. De- vanus, together with Faganus were sent by Elentherius, to preach the gospel in Britain, a.d. 186,- who after his pious labours te- ST. DAVIDS. 1239 ST. DAVIDS. 1240 tired here to end his days. The site of a ■chapel once sacred to Devanus is shewn in a little hollow to the w. of the house, having a little ripple of water passing near it. Another dedicated to Justinian pro¬ bably was not far off. At the e. end of Ramsey and slightly separated from it, are two islets, one called Ynys y Byry, or the kite’s island, the other Ynysy Cantwr the precentor’s island, with high craggy cliffs, producing a thick matted herbage, stocked with rabbits, puffins, elygogs, gulls, and other sea fowl. The principal of the other insulated rocks are called the Bishop and kis Clerks. They are 7 in number. A great quantity of sea-birds are reared upon these rocks. The eggs are by some esteemed a luxury, but they are seized upon in defi¬ ance of the clamour of the robbed, carried to Bristol, and sold for the purpose of clari¬ fying wines. Upon one of these rocks in a little hollow towards the centre, there is a grove of the Lavatera arborea, grow¬ ing very luxuriantly. The rocks called the Smalls, are nearer the coast of Pembroke¬ shire than any other, tbo’ distant 7 leagues, and may therefore be not iced here. They are placed at various distances, one from the other, amounting to 20 in number at least; some appearing at high tide, and some at low water, besides other hidden rocks, ex¬ tending in length from s-w. to n-e. more than 2m. and in breadth more than one; other rocks lie at the distance of 6m. from the Smalls, called Hats and Barrels, from their having that appearance at certain times of the tide, but there is good naviga¬ tion between. To obviate the disasters arising from this dangerous space of ocean, which covered the coast every winter with wrecks, mr. John Philips of Liver¬ pool, a native of Cardiganshire, projected a lighthouse, intheyear 1783,and the execu¬ tion was undertaken by mr. H. Whitesides, of Liverpool, now living at Solva, who continues most deservedly, to have the management and superintendence of this patriotic work, deriving from it a hand¬ some independency. It is erected upon a rock, in fine weather about 5 feet above high water, but in storms, the sea runs over the rock between the 8 pillars which sup¬ port the lanthern, from 15 to 20 feet deep; one in the centre is strengthened by ob¬ lique stays, and was finished in 1775. Some considerable inconvenience was discover¬ ed from three of the pillars being made of iron, which were not affected in the same way by the atmosphere. In the winter of 1776it therefore was notlighted. In 1777, mr. Whitesides put his own work to the test, and the fabric had to withstand all the violence that winds and waves could offer. Their fire was blown out, their necessaries nearly exhausted, when mr. W. adopted the expedient of launching three different casks ; in each was a bottle with a letter corked up in it. Upon the cask was in¬ scribed “ Open this and you will find a letter.” One was taken up a few days af¬ ter it left the Smalls, in a creek near the agent’s house to whom the letter wasdi. reeled at Trelethin, near St. Davids. The defects were remedied, and the light house has ever since held out it’s tutelary blaze. “ The eventful history of the Eddystone light house,” says mr. Fenton, “ fills a costly folio volume, and mr. Smeaton’s labours have been duly appreciated; yet, taking every thing into consideration, I think the light house of the Smalls, asmuch entitled to notice as that of any Pharos the world ever knew.” A ditch or hol¬ low way called Foes Gyriclc, or Foes y My- nach, stretches from the irish sea, near Penbyry to Caerbwddy on Bride’s-bay and is still visible, particularly to the e. of the farm of Mynydd du. According to the Bod¬ leian m.s.s. referred to by mr. Fenton, where Canon Lewis writing to Browne Willis, dated Jan. 22, 1719, says, *• Some old people told me that they had heard a tradition that the monks belonging to St. David’s, were not permitted to go beyond this boundary ; but I rather conjecture that the land to the s-w. of this ditch, in which St. David’s is included, had some extraor¬ dinary privileges of sanctuary.” To Milford, by an exploratory route, pass by a mound beyond the town, where anciently was a cross. Descend into a small valley called Clegyr falling from the moor called the Ddyfrog, given to St. Da¬ vids by Rhys ap Tewdwr mawr, mostly under water. Near the beach of a small creek, named Caerbwddy, is a mill turned by this water, and there falls into the sea. A lava of immense fragments of a curious¬ ly granulated and coloured marble, covers the hill just above, and other surrounding places. Upon a projecting point of the cliffs to the r. of this vale are several lines of intrenchments of earth, perhaps thrown up to repel the piratical Danes. Hence 241 ST. DAVIDS. 1242 m. through a good corn country to Llan- ridion, where was founded an hospitium vith a prebend annexed. Here pass part f the road constantly irrigated from what i called the 'Nine Wells. Prooeed to Llan. nwas, a little to the r. A demesne he¬ dging to Joseph Harries, esq. extend- ag from the vale of the Nine Wells, to re estuary of Solva. This is a beautiful □mmer situation, commanding a most harming view of the islands and moun- tins at the back of St. David’s, and of the /hole extent of Bride’s-Eay, almost en- ircled by land, having the appearance of vast lake. Upon a peninsular projec- lon is an encampment formed of 3 ram- arts of earth, with a bow towards the ind side and a covered way, sinking down o a little creek, sheltered by this head- and. Within the ramparts is an extensive ;rassy area, with 2 large stones in the mid- lie. In the space between the outer and econd vallum, there are many little hol- ows, where huts have been. Upon the leclivity of the hill facing the creek, there s the foundation of an old wall or pitched vay. Descend to the little port of Solfach , vhere about the year 1800 a new town regan to spring up. The estuary of the Solfach River forms a curious inlet between wo high hills. This clear trout stream nas it’s source in Gwayn y harry, and run- aing by Llanrithan, receives a tributary tear Llechmeylir, and so by Kerbyd and Carforiog; then turning s. after a course af 5 or 6m. discharges itself here. The narbour affords excellent shelter for ship¬ ping, but the entrance is dangerous, a large pyramidal rock, which divides the passage, leaving a narrow opening on each side. About 30 vessels belong to this port, from 20 to 250 tons. There is however little trade: corn in winter for Bristol; lime¬ stone and culm for manure, and firing from Milford ; these form it’s principal outlines. Solfach is divided into an upper and lower town, both of which are increasing, yet without any regard to plan or accommoda¬ tion. The upper town commands a most delightful view of Bride’s-bay, and is an airy healthy situation. The lower town somewhat in the form of a street, has two lime-kilns placed in the centre. It is here where the principal shops and warehouses are. Houses in the valley have lately in¬ creased much; they have beautiful hang¬ ing gardens appended, both behind and in front next the river. The fences are most¬ ly alder, which grows here with great luxuriancy. Few places have a more pic¬ turesque or cheerful appearance. The hills which bound this interesting valley were formerly well wooded, as the name of a farm, War y coed, upon the summit of one of them, indicates. Higher up the vale are seen some stunted oaks, the rem¬ nant perhaps of a numerous family. The harbour of Solva is bounded by a curious ridge, called Gribyn, separating it from the inlet of Gwadan on the other side. It rises to a sharp summit and continues of the same breadth for a mile, seeming to have had it’s whole extent covered with en¬ campments. Cross the river, and by a steep ascent over the Gribin reach the lit¬ tle vale through which the small brook of Gwadan ripples, abounding with trout. A little beyond, to the r. of the road, lies the small church of St. Elwys, a parish con¬ sisting only of 2 or 3 farms. Upon a point of land projecting into the sea, are several adits, and other appearances of works hav¬ ing been carried on in search after silver mines. Upon the farm of Llechfaen in this parish, there is a large cromlech. A little farther reach Punch or Poyntz Castle, or Castrum Pontii, once one of the principal granges belonging to St. Davids. Close to the house is a tumulus or else an ex¬ ploratory castelet. Leave Brauidy or rather Broadway. Near the church is an ancient mansion of great respectability, but now deserted, belonging to a family of Jones, whose ancestor was of the Herbert stock. Lether, another respectable mansion, at a short distance, also deserted. Descend to Newgill sands, passing the manor house of Newgill, or correctly Newvill. These sands at the lowest ebb are about 3m. in length, of a beautifully smooth surface, and firm. The beach is composed of pebbles. Tradition says, that a great part of the im¬ mense tract of Bride’s-Bay was land, and in the ancient deeds of the house of Braw- dy it is said great possessions are referred to in this direction now no where to be found. After a delightful ride along the sands, mr. Fenton reached the height of the surrounding ground, where a portion of old road runs parallel with the new for several yards, probably a part of that which extended from old Menapia along the coast, to Dale on Milford-haven. Turn to the 1. and fall in with the trifling ruins of 1243 ST. DAVIDS. 12 Cradock’s Chapel, which, with that of Hil¬ ton, was subordinate to the mother church of Roche. Giraldus and Capgrave have said much of the miraculous sanctity of Caradock. This pious recluse was a Welshman of a respectable family in Bre¬ conshire, who, early in life, entered into the service of Rhys, prince of S. Wales, and was employed to keep hounds, but he neglected them and was threatened with loss of life and limb : this induced him to betake himself to an eremitical life near LlandafF, then withdrew to the island of Ary (probably Barry) which being infested by pirates he quitted it, and was establish¬ ed at St. Ismael’s in Roos, where he re¬ mained till his death, in 1124, and was in¬ terred in St. Andrew’s chapel, St. Davids. Visit Roche Castle, or the Castle of the Rock, which commands a most extensive view by sea and land. The first possessor of this castle appears to have been Adam de Rupe, the founder also of Pill Priory. Roche Castle the s-w. extremity of an in¬ land rocky ridge, running nearly e. and w. a little to the n. of the church of St. Mary de Rupe. This castle, at a distance appears an inconsiderable turret, but examined closer is larger than could have been ima¬ gined. Tho’ originally built for defence, yet it’s freestone window cases, spacious fire-places and general arrangement, shews that it has been a habitable mansion. It had 3 stories, each consisting of one large apartment, perhaps divided into 2 with smaller apartments in the s. projection, having elegantly groined roofs and hand¬ some oriel windows. The average thick¬ ness of the walls was 5 feet 10 inches. It was inhabited prior to the reign of Henry 6, about which time the great possessions of the family of de la Roche, lords of this castle, fell between co-heiresses, one of whom married lord Ferrers, the other sir Thomas Longeville, who soon after sold the property. In the civil wars it was gar¬ risoned for the king and held a smart siege under the command of capt. Francis Ed¬ wards of Summerhill. This castle is now the property of Rees Stokes, esq. The pros¬ pect from it includes the islands off St. Davids, and those bounding Bride’s Bay, to the sea, upon the e. side of Pembroke¬ shire, lost in the horizon off Gowerland. The Church is a plain building, consisting o( a nave and chancel, separated by a low arch. It has one window on the n. side, wrought with stone tracery. The entrance is by a porch, with a roof ribbed with stone, archwise and chequed, and a very ancient door-way. The interior, with pews properly ranged, is neat and decent. Upon the s. wall is an elegant monument of Coade’s artificial stone, representing a fe¬ male figure with a book in her hand, to the memory of the rev. John Grant, rector of Nolton, and 47 years vicar of thechurch, 1767, and Elizabeth his wife, parents of the respectable and rev. Moses Grant, who succeeded to the living. The new settlers in Wales distinguished their churches with steeples, yet all, even Pill Priory founded by Adam de Rupe, must be excepted. Quitting Roche Castle arrive at the seat of it’s proprietor. Cyffern is a handsome mod¬ ern mansion, upon rising ground, com¬ manding in front view's of Haverfordwest, Picton-castle, and some reaches of Milford- Haven. To the w. Bride’s-bay and Roche Castle. Following Newgill river a few miles up the vale, under naked hills, near the beach of Newgill occurs Trecoed, or the Vill of the Wood, importing that the faces of these summits were once clothed. This river is a boundary between the eng- lish and welsh, between Dewisland and Roos. It rises in a moor near Trelhyog, in St. Edrin’s parish, passing Castle Vilia, Tankardston, and Eweston, receives a tri¬ butary from the e. before it reaches Roach- mill, and falls from under Newgill-bridge, into the sea. Ascend Plumstone mountain. Having attained the brow mr. Fenton ex¬ plored a considerable rocky tract broken into several irregular masses. In the midst he found 3 rocking-stones, and a crom¬ lech. The summit of this mountainridge supplies a pleasing view of the surround¬ ing country. Here are 2 circles, the outer edge a belt of small stones, raised like the turf ridges round the druid barrows upon the Wiltshire downs. Further on come to a small carnedd which was opened but nothing found. Near it were large circles of stones. To the s-e. of this spot is a cir¬ cular excavation like a little circus. Be¬ yond a beacon, lately established, covering an ancient carnedd, appears a very large sod tumulus, and further on are more. De¬ scend from this summit and take the road by a large ruinous shell of a house called Roblinston, once the residence of a family named Roblyn, which became extinct. In the vale below stand the village and church U5 ST. DAVID-;. 1216 Camros, and opposite after crossing a ook which falls into the Cleddau come . the neat mansion of Hugh Webb Bowen, >q. a mansion prettily embosomed in ood. Almost in front of the house stands 1 immense tumulus or mound, now con- :rted into a shrubbery. In regaining the ■incipal route by the sea coast, pass by immerhill, a mansion once the residence a respectable branch of the family of Iwards, descended from Tudor Trefor. fr. Fenton then passed Hilton , to the and continued his route by the coast, nking down to the little creek of Noltun, Jticed for producing a purplish stone used t tomb-stones, troughs, steps and flags, ulm is shipped off from this place in the immer months. Ascend the hill on the side of the creek towaids the church of Jolton. The glebe house bears great .arks of antiquity. To the r. of the en- ance into the church, upon the outside, .cing the fence, appears the mutilated ef- gies of a crusader, much bedaubed with hitewash, evidently removed in some onoclastic age from his niche in the lurch, and every record destroyed. A imily of the name Grant from Scotland ,i the time of the unfortunate Mary, set- ed in this mansion, and his descendent ow occupies part of the property. On the f. side of the church was the old manor ousc. The property of Nolton was in le family of Crowe, but being forfeited, was bought by the city of London, lin¬ er a quit rent to the crown, a mr. Cozens ought it, and it devolved to Thomas Ky- ler, esq. who sold it to mr. Barlowe, of .lawrenny; Hugh Barlow, esq. of Pem- roke, is now it’s possessor. In this par- ;h is the village of Drewson, from Druid- iwn, near which on the road leading to ishguard to Dale there occurs an enclo- ure of nearly one acre, called Drewson hapcl. The stones which composed this ircle were removed in 1740 to build with, 'he traveller who wishes to make Haver- irdwest a station, should proceed upon te high road by way of 1’elham-bridge; ut if inclined to examine the features of he country in mr. Fenton’s exploratory xcursion, he will advance to the church f Haroldslone, situated upon the edge of hill forming one side of a sequestered ingle planted with thriving young ash rees. At Stromber, not far distant, there ; a grove of the choicest trees intermixed with evergreens. A little further a stone stands to the r. of the road, without inscrip¬ tion. The sands of Broad-Haven have be¬ come a favourite resort for bathing, where many little villas are scattered about for that purpose. Being 7m. from Haverford¬ west, many of the fashionables of that place pass a considerable part of the sum¬ mer here. The air is remarkably salubri¬ ous. The sea receiving no influx of fresh water is excellently adapted for bathing either in machines upon the fine hard sands, or in the retired coves under the ro¬ mantic and high cliffs of Drewson. Some frequenters of this spot have their yachts, to sail in about the bay, which abounds with turbots, soles, and doreys. Hence to Little Haven, separated by a narrow rocky projection. This haven affords shel¬ ter for small country vessels frequenting it in summer to ship culm raised near this place in great quantities. Ascend the heights of Howelston or Haroldstone, where upon a tongue of land stretching into the little valley running up from the sea to¬ wards Walton West, a strong earthwork encampment appears well placed for re¬ pelling an invading enemy. Higher up the country in the same chain is IValwyn’s Castle, or Castell Gualchmai. This Walwyn was said to be the cousin of Arthur, and of gigantic size. A mound of earth, upon which may have stood a castelet, marks the spot. Gualchmai, driven from Galway was wrecked upon this coast and here buried. This spot gives name to a comot in the hundred, including 6 parishes to, the w. of it. Soon after the restoration a person came into this neighbourhood, who appeared continually dejected, shun¬ ned society, and evaded every enquiry. He remained day and night in the church porch. The neighbourhood carried him provisions. His manners were those of a gentleman. Charity, however, relaxed her nerves, he was neglected, and, at length, found dead in the porch. He was suspect¬ ed to be the Wogan who sat as one of Charles’s judges. Further on occurs lla . mas or Roman’s Castle. A rich and well- cultivated country introduces the church of Talbenny, and passing Pearson once the residence of a family of the name of Mears, by purchase the property of lord Kensing¬ ton, reach Orlandon, formerly called llum - prey, the seat of J. P. Laugharne, esq. Touch at Marios, a long, straggling, poor 1247 ST. DAVIDS. 1248 village. In this place resided sir William de Marios, a noble foreigner. The inhabi¬ tants live chiefly by fishing, catching lob¬ sters and crabs. Marios mere abounds with leeches, which are taken and sold. This mere is a common, in winter nearly all cov¬ ered with water, but in summer the greater part is dry, and affords support to the cattle of the villagers, who each has his cow and garden. Their manners are simple, seldom do they vary their mode of life, or go far from home. Their desires seem bounded, they are industrious, and happy. They spin hemp and make lobster pots. From a knoll see Bride’s-bay, St. David’s twin moun¬ tains, and the islets of Ramsey, Skomar, Skokham, Gatholm, at a great distance Gresholm, and faintly in the horizon, the lighthouse upon the Smalls. The nearer striking objects are the stack of St. Brides, and the rocks called Towers. To the r. Musslewick, formerly the residence of a flemish chieftain, now inhabited by a free¬ holder named Runawae. In the opposite side of the promontory there is a small cove under high rocks called Runawae’s Kell or retreat. Stop at Dale, where a handsome mansion is called the castle, be¬ longing to John Lloyd, esq. of Mabus, in Cardiganshire, who married the heiress of the house. Modern Dale appears to have little trade, is ruinous and deserted ; in the time of De Vale, it’s ancient lord, it was a borough, had it’s castle, a market, and other privileges. The bay and roadstedof Dale is defended from all winds except the e. and s-e. where small vessels ride in 2 or 3 fathoms at low water. Near this place the earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry 7, landed with a reinforcement from France, and joined by Rhys ap Thomas and others, they repaired to Bosworth field; to this assistance he was chiefly in¬ debted for the crown of England. These foreign levies introduced the minor plague in the year 1483, and it continued to rage for nearly 2 months. It’s visits were re¬ peated in 1485, 1506,1517, 1528, & 1591. It came in the summer months, and it’s force varied. In 1517 it killed in 3 hours from it’s first seizure. In 1528 it proved mortal in 6 hours. At it’s last return it carried off 960 persons in Shrewsbury alone. It affected only the English, and no other people, not even the Scots. Cross the rising ground to the s. of Dale to inspect the point upon which the block-house stands ; a building opposite and similar to that upon Nangle Point. The ridge is called Gwaedig. Proceed along the coast to the light-houses upon St. Ann’s Point, opened in 1800 to supersede the old. The present are lighted on the principal of the Argand lamp ; the light of the former was derived from coals. The low lighthouse is 15 feet high, and the lantern is 160 feetabovethe level of the sea. The high lighthouse is 42 feet high and elevated 195 feet above the level of the sea. This is the nearest continent to the islets of Skockam and Sko¬ mar. Their names indicate a danish origin. A m.s. account of these islands was lost by fire in the Cottonian library, which ren¬ ders the ancient history of them very im¬ perfect. Skokham, the farthest off from land, being about 5m. from St. Ann’s head, is the property of John Lloyd, esq. of Mabus, in right of his wife. It contains 200a. 2r. 2p. and is now rented for 100/. per annum. The rabbits are a principal article of profit. It has pasture and arable land, is partly in¬ closed, and well supplied with water. There is a dwelling-house upon the islet, and when the inhabitants want to com¬ municate with the main land, they makes smoke by burning fern or straw. Skomar 'is much larger containing 700 acres. It is divided from the main land by the fretum called Jack Sound. It has next to the strait an almost peninsular point, called by old Leland, Little Scalmey. Skomer is the property of Charles Philipps, esq. of St. Bride’s-hill, and is let to a tenant who re¬ sides upon it. Like Skokham, it consists of arable and pasture land, abounds with rabbits, and is well supplied with excel¬ lent water. Return along the summit of the cliffs near Dale, prettily fringed with wood to the water’s edge. Pass by Crab- hole, an ancient mansion, stationed upon an estuary, once inhabited by Philip de Crabhole, whose daughter married Laugh, arne of St. Bride’s ; pass also Filbatch, a- nother venerable house, once belonging to a family of that name. Cross Mullock Bridge. At this place mr. Fenton appears to have slept at the house of a friend, and in the morning visited St. Bride’s, former¬ ly the residence of one John de St. Bride’s, whose daughter enriched the first of the family of the Laughames, who came into Pembrokeshire from Cornwall. Some cov¬ ering remains of the mansion still exist St. Bride’s Church, a rectory in the gift o 249 ST. DAVIDS. ic family of Orlandon, St. Bride*, and obston alternately, is a building of a very ignified appearance, having a tower and ide aisles. Upon the outside is introduc- d an effigy, and parts of two others. In le little creek which almost comes up to le church yard wall there was in former ays a great fishery of herrings, and a small hapel was planted where they offered up rayers for success and protection. Many one coffins may still be seen peeping out f the earth washed away by the sea. Up- n the slope of the ascent to the w. of St. ride’s Church, stands Hill, the seat of Charles Phillips, esq. the proprietor of St. 'rides, commanding a mostcharming view ver the bay, and the opposite coast, back¬ 'd and skirted with a thriving stripe of tarnation, open to a beautiful lawn of reat extent. The peninsular point of land arming one side of the frctum, is con vert- d into 3 deer park, resembling lord Bui- cley’s park at Penmon. Repassing Mul- ock.bridge, on the way to Milford, leave 'it. Ismael’s to the r. pass Butter-hill, the 'esidence of Mr. Roch, supposed to have >een a grange to the priory of Pill. On the vay to Milford cross an estuary which runs ip into the land as far almost as Haskartl, i place once possessed by a noble Norman >r Flemish Advena. The church is a mean structure, containing nothing remarkable ixcept a gravestone to Katherine Barrett, wife of dr. Rowland Meyrick, bishop of Bangor, 1598. Herbranstan, with it’s old Church and truncated tower, a little to the r. does not merit a deviation from the path. The church is rude and simple, containing i plain stone in the chancel bearing an em¬ bossed head of a priest, without inscrip- ion. In a small creek at the bottom of :he little dingle it is said the Flemings first 'landed. By Keeslon take the road to Gellys- kuick, which affords a fine view of the ha¬ ven’s mouth, light-houses, ice. afterwards pass the village of Hubberston; the church has a vaulted roof and a high tower. The village i$ interspersed with trees, and near |the church exhibits ruins of houses. One mile further, after resuming the main road, pass a newly-crected mansion on the 1 . built upon the site of the old chapel of St. [luddock, by mr. Le Hunt, from Ireland. Descend into a little valley at the extremi¬ ty of Hubberston pill, near lm. from the estuary, where you suddenly discovet the .mall remains of Priory Pill. Little hesides 41 ST. DONATS. 1250 the e. side of part of the tower wall is standing. The building was cruciform, ■the tower in the centre was supposed by arches, one of which remains. It was founded by Adam de Rupe, and now forms part of the inheritance of the right hon. Charles Greville, as representative of his uncle the late sir William Hamilton. Sev¬ eral gravestones were discovered in dig¬ ging an adjoining garden. To Fishguard, 16 miles, Barber; F.vans; Skine. — Fishguard, (by way of Y Maen Sigl) SO miles, Wyndham. — Haverford west, 16 miles, Malkin. —- Milford, a circuitous route, Fenton. From Dunraven-house, S miles, Barber; Malkin. — Cowbridge, 7 miles, Wyndham; Skiine ; Warner. ST. DONATS, in the hundred of Og- more, Glamorganshire. The Church is situated in the bottom of a sequestered and picturesque dell. A discharged vicar¬ age, Thomas Drake Tyrwhitt Drake, esq. patron. In the yard is a light elegant cross of curious workmanship. In it’s posthumous vestibule, now roofless, tho’ a considerable burial place, are two monu¬ ments. The one represents an ecclesi¬ astic, his head covered with a cowl, re¬ clining upon a cushion, and his feet rest¬ ing upon 2 globes; with the following inscription, (t William: de : Rhchllo : gyt: ici: Deu : de: sa : alme : eyt : merce. William de Richelieu lies inter¬ red here, the Lord have mercy on his soul.” The other is a mummy-like figure, with this inscription, “ Nepatract: sta- tuetur, licetur que subjacet. A grand¬ daughter had this monument removed here, and requests the favour it may be suffered to remain.” At the e. end is a shrine and chapel, both in ruins, and be¬ hind the altar, U a figure of PrinceRichard Hopkins, in excellent sculpture, the head broken off. In a niche of the e. wall are the broken remains of a statue of Howell Dha. Underneath, in basso-relievo, is the figure of a woman leaning upon her hand. Near this is a small figure in a kneeling posture, placed on a niche, under which is a Banitier or basin for holy-water. In 1801 the population of the parish amount¬ ed to 198. This village lies upon the banks of the Bristol channel; with a hold rocky shore, most dangerous to mariners. 1251 ST. DONATS. 1252 A Charity School here is benevolently and laudably supported by mr. Drake. The Castle, which is entire, is an extensive structure of much antique beauty, partly inhabited. This object is so much intercep¬ ted by high trees as only to be seen advan¬ tageously from some heights in the adjoin¬ ing park : on one of them stands a watch- tower, a lofty building, the view from which, over the channel, and to the distant Somerset, and Devonshire hills, presents a grand variety of objects. Near this place is a large cave, said to have been the retreat of St. Donat. It is ^m. e. from the castle and can only be entered at low water. Accord¬ ing to Caradoc this castle was apportioned to Sir William le Esterling, alias Stradling, by Fitzh3mmon on the conquest of Gla¬ morgan. The Stradlings held it 684 years, but becoming extinct, the estate fell in 1740, to Bussey Mansell, esq. It now be¬ longs to the Drake family. The Castle was defended by a ditch, and in some places by a triple wall. It is a large turretted edi¬ fice, but void of taste. Of the original structure little remains, and the additions, at different periods, form an irregular whole. The parts are dissimilar, uncon¬ nected, and every way displeasing. The most interesting portions of this building are the principal court, which is poly¬ gonal, and disproportionately low. It is ornamented with a few small round re¬ cesses in the walls, within which are the busts of roman emperors and empresses, which seem to have been painted and gilt. The state apartments are also much orna¬ mented, and contain several specimens of heavy wood-work, greatly in vogue dur¬ ing the reigns of Elizabeth and James. It had a park well stocked with deer, and gardens with terraces facing the Severn. These, tho’ now much neglected, exhibit a specimen of the formal style of laying out grounds in the 17th century ; consisting of a series of hanging gardens or terraces, separated by stone walls, and connected by flights of steps, ascending gradually from the shore to the mansion. In this neighbourhood several Roman coins have been dug up, among which were some scarce ones of ASmilianus and Marius. Mr. Skrine left the town of Bridge-end on the r. ascended the summit of Newton Down, whence an enchanting prospect saluted him, containing features so varied and sublime that it brought to his recollec¬ tion some of the finest landscapes of Italy. Charmed with this view, which a dectin. ing sun displayed to the greatest advantage, he slowly descended to the village of Pyle, where he found an excellent inn. On the road to Llanbithian Castle, and Cowbridce is Lanlwit-major, or Uan- illtydfawr, a poor village, but celebrated in british history for having been the seat of a college founded by St. Iltatus, in the year 508, of which there are still some remains. This is a discharged vicarage, consolidated with Llys Werni and Pen Marc. The dean and chapter of Gloucester patrons and im¬ propriators. In 1801 the population of the parish was 729, including the villages of Bovcrton and Sigginslon, and the hamlets of Frampton Ham, Llech-maivr, and Pwll Elech. The Market is held on Friday, and the Fair June 23. The strata is blue lime¬ stone, covered with a rich clayey mold. The pasturage is fine, the tillage land per¬ haps the best in S. Wales. The Church was built about the year 508. It’s re¬ venues once supported a considerable monastery and seminary of learning. Fitz- hammon removed the monastery to Tewkesbury, and Henry 8 annexed the revenues to the see of Gloucester. Bover- ton, lm. distant, was probably the Bovium of Antoninus, through which the Julia Sirata passed 1 |m. Irom Boverton, by the sea shore, upon the lofty cliffs command¬ ing the Bristol channel, are two roman camps. One is called the Castle Ditches. The numerous broad and direct roads to¬ wards Lantwil-major, the numerous inter¬ esting streets and lanes which still exist; the uncommon size of it’s church and yard; and the number of human skulls dug up in the adjoining gardens arid fields, prove it to have been a place of great popu¬ lation and eminence. The town-hall still remains ; the ascent is by two flights of steps. Over the hall is a bell. The Gaol has been demolished, but the name of Gal¬ lows-way is still retained. The house be¬ longing to the rectorial tythes, is still a re¬ spectable building, having hanging gar¬ dens descending towards the church. At Lantwit are two churches contiguous. Be¬ low the old church is an ancient building called the Lady's Chapel, nearly delapi- dated. The new church contains 3 aisles, with a handsome altar piece. In the mid¬ dle of the old church 1 are two curious monumental stones, lying side by side 125 \ 1253 ST. DONATS. nought in 1730, from a place called the astery o( St. Illtyd is still standing. The Ureat House, where a church formerly old parish-book of Llanmaes records many ,tood. In the vestry is a gigantic figure examples of extraordinary age. “ It is a >f prince Richard Hopkins, in the costume remark founded on experience, that those jf the reign of Henry 8. See Archseolo- parts of our island which are not moun*. ;ia, vol, 6, p. 22, et seq. Near this statue tainous, but diversified by moderate in¬ is the bust of a child, and near the altar a equalities, having sufficient descents from figure kneeling. In the yard lies part of m ancient cross, and another stone by the 5. door of the church. In 1789, mr. Ed¬ ward Williams, (the self-taught genius and antiquary of Wales) led by traditional his¬ tory, undertook the raising of an immense Monumental Cross, not noticed by any author, which he erected against the wall of the church porch, where it originally 'stood. His own account appears in Car¬ lisle’s Wales, under the article Llan 111- tyd Fawr. This stone is inscribed “ In nomine Di Summi incipit crux Salvatoris quae preparavit Samsoni Apati pro anima sua et pro anima Juthahelo rex et Artmali. Tegat crux me.” In the name of the most high God the cross of our saviour begins, which the king has erected to the memory of Sampson the Abbot, and to Juthahel and Artmael for the sake of their souls. May the cross protect me ! The height of the stone is 9 feet; breadth, 1 foot 7 in. at the top, and 2 feet 4 inches at the bot¬ tom ; thickness If. 3in. Near this place is the ancient port of Colhugh, formerly Colhow, in the time of Henry 8. The foundation of the pier, and the piles of wood which formed it’s defence on the w. side are still visible at low water ; but the sea has made great encroachments on this side. The Seminary of Lantwit flourished so much under the protection of Llan 111- tyd, that it’s pupils exceeded 2000, who occupied 400 houses and 7 halls. Gildas, the historian ; David of Caerleon and St. Davids; Paulinus, bp. of Leon; Samson, archbp. of Dol; Talhaiarn, the baid; and the famous Taliesin, received their edu¬ cation here. The ruins of the School- house are in a garden on the n. side of the church-yard, and the Monastery, Halls, and other buildings stood upon a place call¬ ed Hill-head, on the n. side of the Tythe- barn. The Chantry-house is nearly oppo¬ site to the Church-porch. There are 5 or 6 tolerable public-houses here, as many decent shops, 3 or 4 bakers, 3 schools, and other remnants of it’s former consequence. There are vestiges of several Roman camps in this vicinity. The gateway of the mon¬ rivers, brooks, and rain water, on a dry, rocky bottom, with a healthy and consid¬ erably fertile soil, where vegetation is vigorous, afford the most numerous and remarkable cases of longevity. Such a country is the southern part or vale of Glamorgan : open, but not a dead flat. To the n. and n-e. the vale is well sheltered by mountains, from sharp winds. To the s. it has the dry rocky shores of the Bristol Channel, without any fens. Of the same character, in most particulars, are the counties of Flint and Denbigh in North Wales. Here is habitually less malt liquor drank than in any part of the kingdom, and less animal food eaten. Their food is chief¬ ly good wheaten bread, with cheese, but¬ ter, and milk. They use also large quan¬ tities of vegetables, and many kinds of food prepared from apples, gooseberries, and other fruits. Flummery, made with oat-meal, is used almost daily. Their drink is in general, water, or milk and water. Herb broth is much used by the common people. It may be considered as the welsh soup maigre. It is water thickened a very little with oatmeal, into which they put large quantities of such herbs as may be at hand, or in season. They make it savory with salt, put in a little butter, and cat bread with it. In Gower they eat chiefly barley-bread. All these habits are favour¬ able to health and long life.—B. H. Mal¬ kin. Llandough Castle presents a beautiful situation on a small scale. The road from the village under the wood to Cowbridce by the mill, whether the sur rounding foliage be made vocal by the nightingales in the spring, or recommend¬ ed to the eye by the varied tints of autumn, retains very superior and undiminished at¬ tractions. On his way to the turnpike- road to Pyle Inn, mr. Warner passed a farm called Lechmawr, composed of two Saxon words signifying the marsh of car¬ casses. To Llanbithian Castle, 4 miles, Barber; Malkin. — Dunraven Castle, 5 miles, Wj ndham; Evans. — Pyle-Inn, 11 miles, Skrine; Warner. 1255 STRATA FLORIDA. 1256 from Trejarron, 6 miles, Wyndhara. -Llanidloes, 20 miles, Skrine. STRATA FLORIDA, or Ystrad Fflur Abbey, is called by the Welsh, Mynach- log Ystrad-fflur, in Cardiganshire. It is very retiredly situated upon excellent meadow land, and near the fresh and ra¬ pid Teify. Leland says, “ A1 the mon- taine ground bytwixt the river Alen and Strateflure longeth to Stratefleere, and is almoste for wilde pastures, and breding ground, in so much that everi man there about puttith in bestes, as many as they will without paiyng of mony. Of the 12m. from Strateflur to Llangyric, 8 be moun¬ tainous ground longging to Strateflur, al for pasture. Al this 6m. from Strateflure towards Buelth is montayne ground for pasture, and longgith to Strateflure Ab- bay.” There are but 2 or 3 dwellings in this hamlet. The soil is well suited for cultivation. The church is a mean edifice, built in the cemetery of the Abbey, which proudly overtops it’s lesser rival. There is a marble monument to Averina the wife and Dame Anne Lloyd, daughter of Wm. Powell of Nanteos. The former was a de¬ scendant of Edwyn, one of the 15 tribes of N. Wales. In the church-yard are some tombstones, well executed. The extent of the old cemetery is said to be 120 acres, and leaden toffins are frequently dug up within that space. Leland says that 39 yew-trees once stood in it, of which few remain. Tradition says that Dafydd ab Gwylym is buried under one of them. Ys- tradflur was most noted for it’s celebrated Abbey. According to Dugdale, the pre¬ sent remains were built by the abbot, in the year 1294, but the structure raised by Rhys ap Grifyth stood distant about 2m. in a s-w. direction, upon a plain near the river Flur, where remains an old build¬ ing, now used as a barn, called Hen mo- nach log, or the old Abbey. The present structure was once the chief depot of vyhat- ever was civilized, and divided with the abbey of Conwy the pious and honour¬ able charge of depositing and carrying on the records of the principality. No other remains of this abbey appear, except a wall at the w. end of it’s church, and a beautiful door-way of finely proportioned normau architecture. Not a single frag¬ ment of a tomb or inscription is to be found. This celebrated monastery stood in the remotest recess of a mountainous semicircle, which still appears an inviting situation. It was founded by Rhys ap Grufyth, a prince of S. Wales, in the time of William the conqueror, who, with many of his successors, were interred in the church of this abbey. From the dissolu* tion to the present time this once proud edifice has been rapidly decaying. All that remains is the w. entrance of the church, a verv fine specimen of the Saxon arch, and a gothic window of the s. aisle. Two fine silver seals were found in these ruins, one about 1998, the other about 1805, neither of which have been preserved. In the Gentleman’s Mag. for 1752, vol. 22, j>. 401, are engravings of 2 coins dug up at this abbey. Davyddab Gwillym, the bard, was buried here, and many welsh princes. In 1176, Cadcll, son of Grufydd ap Rhys. 1184, Howel ab Jefan, 1190, Owen ab Rhys, 1196, Rhys ab Grufydd, 1202, Grufydd, another son of prince Rhys. 1204, Hywcl ap Rhys. 1209, Mailt or Maud de Bruce, wife of Grufydd ab Rhys. 1210, Isabel, wife to Wm. Gam, lord of Gower. 1221, Young Rhys, son of Grufydd ab Rhys. 1230, Maelgwn.son of prince Rhys. 1235, Owen, son of Grufydd ab Rhys. The names of 3 abbots are known. Sisil- lus held the situation about the year 1188; Llewelyn Fychan, about 1340; and Rich¬ ard Tally, the last abbot, 1553. The ab¬ bey-house was formerly a grand building, but now used as a common farm house. A mansion at this place has been erected by John Stedman, esq. from Staffordshire, out of the ruins of t|ie outbuildings belong¬ ing to the abbey. It descended to Richard Stedman, who died without issue. His wife was 2d daughter to Wm. Powell, of Nanteos, and he left the estate to his wife’s brother. It is now possessed by captain Powell of Nanteos. Jt is chiefly owing to the care of the monks of this house that the public now possess an accurate history of Wales from the year 1157 to the defeat of Llewellyn, the last reigning prince of Wales. The earliest account of the kings of Britain was brought from Britany in France by Gualter, archdeacon of Oxford, about the year 1100. It was a ms. in the British or Armorican language, called 1258 1257 STRATA FLORIDA. Brut: y: Brenhined, which brought the history down to the year 700. Mr.Warton says, there was a copy of the ms. in the library of mr. Davies of Llanerk, in Den¬ bighshire. Geoffery of Monmouth’s his¬ tory is a translation of this work. Caradoc of Llancarvan took up the history where the british author left it, and continued it to the year 1157. Several copies of Cara- doc’s history were preserved in this mon¬ astery, and the monks carefully registered every remarkable event from that time, till near the final defeat of the last prince of british blood in the year 1282. On his way to Pont y Monaco, mr. Wyndham ascended the mountains, and, after resting a night at the execrable inn of Rhos Fawr, he pursued his ride to Spytly Ystwith, whence he descended to Pontrhyd y-Croos, a bridge of one wide arch, over the Ystwith, which here forms a rapid torrent through a deep and gloomy dell. He then made a serpentine course over the doubt¬ ful path of a long morass, while the moun¬ tains around appeared most horrible. These scenes served as a proper introduction to his expectations in approaching Pont y Monach. The river Teifi leads to the town of Trecaron, To Pont y Monach, 10 miles, Wyndham. — Tregaron, 6^ miles, Skrine, — Hafod,5 miles. — Llanbedr, 16 miles. aa/// y a/// // // * • From Pencamawr, I \ miles. Barber. -Raglan Castle, 11 miles, Evans. - Llanfaii Iscoed Castle, 3| miles, Wyndham; Coxe. STRIGUIL, orSKIGIL, orTROGGY CASTLE, Monmouthshire, stands in a marshy field in the forest of VVentwood, commanding the ancient road from Chep¬ stow to S. Wales, at the foot of the n. side of Pencamawr. “ The small remains of this fortress are so profusely overspread with ivy, and the pendant foliage of wide branching trees, that an accurate judg¬ ment can scarcely be formed of it’s archi¬ tecture ; but where they can be seen, pointed arches, with neat facings appear throughout; from which circumstance, says mr. Barber, the accuracy of Leland and Camden may be questioned, who date the erection of this castle prior to the con¬ quest. The parts now standing certainly STRIGUIL CASTLE. were not constructed within a century subsequent to that event. An octagon tower and some broken walls, with arch¬ ed windows from 7 to 8 feet thick, are the only standing parts of the ruin; but the form of the area may be traced, which is oblong, with towers defending each angle, and a broad moat surrounding the whole.” Mr. Morrice, surveyor, traced the founda¬ tions with great attention, found them nearly of an oblong shape, with vestiges of projecting towers at the s. angles. He discovered also traces of a broad moat. Ac¬ cording to Doomsday book this castle was built by William Fitz Osborne, earl of Hereford; but according to Hammer’s Irish Chronicle, by Gilbert Strongbow, earl of Ogie. It is called Castell Glyn Ys- trigul, near the river of that name which falls a little below into the Usk, between Bryn Byga and Caerleon.—J. Evans. “This building was probably only a cas- telleted mansion, erected by Richard Strongbow, carl of Pembroke, Chepstow, and Striguil, who was a conqueror of Ire¬ land. From him it came by marriage, to the family of Bigod, earls of Norfolk; and is now the property of the duke of Beau¬ fort. The whole appears to have been surrounded by a moat, which was supplied with water by two small streams, that, here uniting, form the rivulet called Trog- gy. About 2m. below, at Caerwent, this stream assumes the name of Nedern. Mr. Barber reascended Pencamawr from Striguil Castle upon the site of a British way, which leads from Caerdiff to Mon¬ mouth, and brought him into the turnpike road between Newport and Caerwent ; who says, “ In this interesting progress, on the ridgy summit of the high hills bor¬ dering the Usk, our prospects were de¬ lightful. Occasionally excluded by the close thickets of the forest, and re-appear¬ ing under different circumstances, new scenes were continually arising; and that satiety in consequence avoided which probably would have resulted froma long possession of one species of scenery, how¬ ever excellent. In this variegated land¬ scape, may be caught a glimpse of the Su¬ gar-loaf and Skyrrid. An abrupt descent leads from these ruins through an open forest to the antiquated mansion, hanging groves, and dark mantling woods of Her. Iholly, impendent near the limpid Usk, which here makes ono of it’s boldest 12.59 STRiGUIL CASTLE. SWANSEA. 1260 curves, forming nearly a complete circle in it’s romantic meander. This house was an ancient seat of a branch of the Kemeys family, and came by a marriage with the heiress, to mr. Gardener. About 2m. fur¬ ther, in a field on the r. of the road, is a building called Kemey’s Inferior, or Kemeys Folly ; from the summit of which, a range of prospect is obtained, scarcely to be e- qualled for extent and diversity. The views from the Pencamawr here appear, with all the added charms of the scenery of the Usk, in this part eminently beau¬ tiful. From this spot also the Bristol chan¬ nel displays it’s silvery surface with un¬ common effect; while the distant shores of Somerset and Devon follow it’s course in bay and promontory, until the receding confine, too remote for distinct vision, ap¬ pears dissolved in the etherial blue. De¬ scending from this charming exhibition, in a short time the british way is left near -a public house called Cat’s-Ash, to join the Newport turnpike. The road is for the most part formed on the Julia Strata of the Romans. Where it deviates from the absolute site of the ancient way, it closely follows it’s course, and the foundation of the causeway may be traced in the adjoin¬ ing fields; particularly in a meadow where a lane from Llanfair to Caldecot level crosses the turnpike. Pursuing this road somewhat more than a mile, a bridle-way on the r. leads to the remains of Pencoed Castle. In returning to Chepstow, mr. WyncL- ham descended into the circular shady Dale of Mounton. A brook gliding through this verdant meadow, washes the side of a little chapel, and is closely surrounded by craggy declivities feathered with trees. To Pencoed Castle, 2 miles, Barber. Bock to Penliow, 2^ miles, Coxe. To Chepstow, 10 miles, Evans. — Caldecot, (through Shire-newton, Mounton, and Chepstow) 14 miles, Wyndham. From Bristol, by water, Barber. - Llandilo Fawr, 23 miles, Barber. - an Excursion to Llandilo Fawr, and Llan¬ dovery, Malkin. - Neath,9 miles, Skrine; Evans; Donovan. - Caermarthen, 28 miles, Warner. -- Britton Ferry, 5 miles, Wyndham. Back from Penrice Castle, 12 miles, Skrine. SWANSEA, (anciently Aber-tawy) Eg- lwys Fair, is a tolerably neat borough town, altho’ irregularly built. It is gov. erned by a portreve, recorder, 12 aider- men, 2 common attornies, or chamber- berlains, 2 serjeants at mace, and an un- limited number of burgesses. Together with 6 other contributary boroughs, it re¬ turns one member to parliament. It’s length, including the suburbs, nearly I^m. situated atthe confluenceoftheriverTawc with the Bristol channel, and about the middle part of a beautiful bay. In 1801, the population stood, 1203 houses, 6099 inhabitants. A mail-coach from London arrives every morning at Swansea, through Bristol, to London. Packets sail regular¬ ly to Dublin, Waterford, and Cork; and twice or thrice a week to Ilfracombe, fares, for the latter, 10s. 6d. The Markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The Fairs the 2d Saturday in May, July 2, Aug. 15, October 8. It has long been a winter residence of the neighbouring gentry, and a favourite resort in the summer for bath¬ ing ; but it’s increasing opulence arises principally from the prosperity of it’s manufactures and commerce. It is in the district of Glamorgan called Gower. A very flourishing Pottery is carried on here, on the plan of mr. Wedgwood, an Iron foundery, 2 Roperies, 2 extensive Brew¬ eries, and much Ship building. The cop¬ per-works lie at l§m. distance from the town, so that the atmosphere does not suf¬ fer by immediate impregnation. This is the native place of the celebrated Beau Nash, of Bath. The Church is neat with some good monuments. The Bay of Swansea is a delightful object, whether viewed towards the sea, or from a boat at the entrance. It has been compared to the bay of Naples, and the comparison to those who have seen both is striking.—J. Evans. The Quay or Strand forms a very busy scene. The Burrows, (which command a pleasing view of the ocean, pier, and ship¬ ping) are the fashionable promenade and contain some good lodging houses. Jor¬ dan’s is considered the most elegant. At a short distance from the town is a place whimsically called “The World’s End,” commanding the beautiful scenery of Mount Pleasant, where are some excellent houses built for the accommodation of strangers. The Pleasure-ground consists of a garden of about 4 acres, laid out in grass parterres, shrubberies, plantations of forest trees, with an extent of 800 yards of 1261 SWANSEA. 1262 gravel walks. A grand esplanade facing the s. 40 feet wide, the length 250 yards, commanding an uninterrupted view of the bay, piers, and shipping. On the e. n. and w. sides gravelled avenues of more than 1100 yards, include 8 acres of ground, and a walk of nearly 1 Jm. A little beyond is Heathfield Lodge, a handsome villa, sur¬ rounded by pleasure grounds belonging to sir Gabriel Powell. The principal feature of the Castle is a massive quadran¬ gular tower, remarkable for a range oflight circular arches, surrounding the top, and supporting a parapet, which forms a con¬ nexion with turrets at each angle. This parapet affords a pleasing bird’s eye view of the (own and surrounding country. The tcnantable parts comprise the town-hall; a poor house; a jail; a new market house ; numerous store cellars; a blacksmith’s and other shops and habitations; a Roman Catholic Chapel; and a pigeon-house. The gothic structure has been so far metamor¬ phosed in it’s application to these pur¬ poses, that it is almost impossible to trace the original plan of the building ; but the large apartment used for Romish worship has been either the baronial hall or the chapel. Mr. Donovan ascended the lofty tower, whence he obtained a grand pano¬ rama view of the town and it's environs. This castle was built a. d. 1099, by Henry Beaumont, earl of Warwick, a norman leader, who conquered Gowerland, (a tract of country bounded by the Neath and Loughor rivers,) from the Welsh; but it was soon after besieged by Gruffydd ap Rhys ap Theodore, a native chief, and a great part of the outbuildings destroyed. It is now the property of the duke of Beau¬ fort, lord paramount of Gower. The parish Church of Swansea contains some very ancient monuments. There is another church in the town, called St. Johns, (formerly aehapel belonging to the knights of Jerusalem) ; but the parish of St. John, does not commence until lm. beyond the town, andextendsonly lm. further. There are still the remains of the suppressed Hospital of St. Davids, founded by Elea¬ nor, only daughter and heiress of Wm. de Bruce, who married John Lord Mount- rath. The benevolent disposition which first created an establishment at Swansea for the education of the children of the poor, has been extended to the erection of commodious school-room for the accom¬ modation of the boys. The only miner¬ al spring in the county of Glamorgan is at Swansea. This spring has an acid styptic taste like alum, tho’ the predominant salt is a martial vitriol. It turns blue with vine¬ gar, but will not curdle with milk. It is recommended in diarrhoea, and as a styptic in wounds. The Bathing house lies jin. from the town, upon the beach. The terms are, board and lodging, ll. Ilf. 6d. per week, ditto for servants U. Is.; private parlour 10s. 6d. per week ; dogs, 2s. per week; bathing an hour before or after high water, Is. each time. Jordan’s warm sea-water baths, in summer each time 3s.; in the winter half year 3s. 6d. Haynes's cold bath, with a fire in the dressing-room. Is. 3r/.; without fire, Is.; guide, 6rf. Hot bath, with fire in the dressing-room 3s.; without fire, 2s. 9il. ; guide 6rf. Here are also pumps for partial bathing, and a show¬ er bath. A Newspaper is printed here by T. Jenkins, called the “Cambrian, and General Weekly Advertiser for the Principality of Wales.” Friday is the day of publication. There are two circulating libraries at Swansea; chat of Jenkins call¬ ed the Glamorgan Library, contains many historic and philosophic works; those of mrs. Oakley, and mr. Evans contain the newest novels, &c. Daily papers and monthly publications may also be seen. The Theatre is small but commodious. Inns. The Mackworth arms, Ivy bush. Wheat sheaf. At the George in Wind- street, are a good and well-frequented ball court and billiard table ; and at the Foun¬ tain and Red-lion, Strand, are other bil¬ liard tables. Ten miles above Swansea is a bridge called Pont ar Tawy, of one arch, built by Wm. Edwards, it’s chord is 80 feet. A large tract of country n. of Swansea is covered with coal, copper, and iron¬ works, the operations of which are much facilitated by a canal passing among them. The dismal gloom of the njanufactorics hanging over the river Tawy is pleasingly constrastcd by the whitened walls of their appendant villages, springing fiom the dark sides of the hills which rise above the river. Conspicuous above the other re¬ sorts of the manufacturers is Morristown, a neat newly created village. Upon the e. side of the river, within the parish of St. Mary, is a small hamlet, called St. Thomas. The remains of it’s chapel are 1263 SWANSEA. 1264 scarcely disccrnablc, being almost entirely washed away. AN EXCURSION IN THE DISTRICT OF GOWER, OR GWYR, inhabited by a colony of Flemings, who settled there in the reign of Henry 1. On the road leading down to Penrice Castle is Shetty Parle, on an eminence com¬ manding the whole of Swansea bay. Os¬ termouth Castle is a majestic ruin, in a bold situation near the coast, commanding a delightful prospect of the country with the Mumbles Point close at hand. This building is a good specimen of the gothic. The village is singularly situated under the shadow of a high limestone rock. [See 1017.] Above Ostermouth there is a lodg¬ ing-house called Thistle Boon, with an ex¬ tensive view over the whole of Gower, and the two bays of Caermarthen and Swansea. Between Ostermouth and New¬ ton are found the Papaver dubium, and Gentianapncumonanthe. Therockyscen¬ ery of Caswell Bay, famed for the number and beauty of it’s shells, is grand, and should be visited at low water. Puldw Point affords similar objects, with the ad¬ dition of a very pretty dingle up the coun¬ try. Pennarth has a weather beaten ruin at the head of a vast sand-bank. From Puldw Point it should bethe object fo keep along the sea-shore as much as possible to Oxwich Point so as to have a complete view of Oxwich Bay, with it's grand shores, caverns, and promontories. Penmaen is situated at the foot of a mountain, called Cwm Bryn, one of the highest in S. Wales, on which there is a huge cromlech,called King Arthur’s Stone. This immense stone of lapis molaris is supported by several others, similar to those near Duffrin house. This has also a heap of stones thrown round it. Penrice Castle is the seat of Thomas Mansel Talbot, esq.; consisting of a small modern villa, built under the nodding towers of the ancient castle, [see col. umn 1030.] A fine gothic win¬ dow is nearly all that remains of Oxwich Castle. The village is remarkable neat and pretty. The new parsonage house is beautifully situated on the beach, at the w. side of the bay. At Port Inon Point there is a high precipice immediately over the sea, near the top of which is a most stupendous cleft. The village of Port Inon is a decent, retired, and rural spot, noted for it’s fine oysters. Rosilly Bay presents a sea-view of the w. side across the great bay of Caermarthen to Caldy Island. H'orm’s Head forms the extremity of the peninsula. It should be visited at low water for the sake of examining it’s curi¬ ous rocks. The eligugs visit this promon¬ tory. Above I.taninadoc there is a high hill, with evident vestiges of a roman en. campment; whence is a fine view over Caermarthen Bay, with the bold promon¬ tory of Worm’s-head immediately below. The village of Chcriton, is neat and plea¬ sant. Penclawdd, is not less rurally placed, under a hill, looking across Burry river to the Coast of Caermarthen. There are coal and copper-works here, as well as at Loucher, a poor village, with the shell of a square castle fortified by a double trench. The church yard is beautifully planted. [See 827.] Gellyhyr is the principal object of interest on the return to Swansea. The circuit of Gower is between 40 and 50m. and there are no public accommodations. In point of landscape it affords less than most parts of Glamorgan; but the origin and habits of the people, the antiquities and curiosities, render it highly worthy of an attentive examination. It abounds in many places with deep pits. The e. side is remarkably fruitful and well cultivated. —B. H. Malkin, [seecol. 525.] Thes-w. part of Gower is inhabited by the successors of acolony of Flemings, who do not under¬ stand the welsh language. They are dis¬ tinguished by their dialect and provincial dress, and rarely intermarry with the welsh. They wear what is called a Whit¬ tle, made of fine wool and dyed scarlet. It is nearly a yard square, with a fringe at bottom, called Ddrums. This garment is thrown across the shoulders and fastened with a pin or broach. Anciently it was fastened with the prickle of the black thorn. Some of the old women retain this fastening. This cloak is worn in the neigh¬ bourhood of Fishguard, where there is a colony of the same people. Mr. Donovan says, that little coasting excursions by sea to Oxwich, Fenrise, the Worm’s-head, and other places on the shores of the promontory of Gower, are sometimes undertaken by parties of plea¬ sure from Swansea, during the finer months of summer. Boats and seamen may com¬ monly be hired in the town for such ex¬ peditions. This diligent and ingenious 1265 SWANSEA. 1966 naturalist remarks also that the light house rock is only accessible on foot at low wa¬ ter. In one exposed spot the substance of the rock is a brittle calcareous spar, con¬ fusedly crystallisedin angulated pyramids, diaphanous, of a somewhat variable opa- zine colour; the fracture glassy, and, as usual, with spars breaking into rhombs. Being incapable of much resistance to the action of the waves this extremity of the rock is worn into the form of a rude natural arch through which the light-house, in one particular point, is distinctly seen. A small battery of four 18 pounders is mount¬ ed upon the highest pinnacle of the emi¬ nence above. Hence there is an easy de¬ scent along the hill to Ostermouth. Cromllyn bog lies 2m. e. of the ferry across the Tawy river, running for 4m. in a direc¬ tion parallel with the old road between Neath and Swansea. None but botonists traverse this morass, but to those it sup¬ plies abundant amusement. From Swansea, mr. Skrine made an ex¬ cursion to Ostermouth Castle, and Pen- rice Castle ; he then proceeded to Pont ar Du LAS. The road to Ostermouth Castle lies across the sands. Near the circuitous turn- pike-road occur the following villas, Ma¬ rino , belonging to Edward King, esq.; Ve¬ randa, the cottage of C. R. Jones, esq.; and Sketty-lodge, which last being placed upon an eminence, commands the whole of Swansea bay. The road to Neath is attained by cross¬ ing Swansea river by an exceedingly good ferry; passing a region of furnaces, and traversing a considerable hill. Buta more eleasinc, tho’ circular route is described as follows. Cilfay Hall rises directly from the beach, in a conical form, and affords a better view of Swansea than can be taken from any other spot. Morristown is now a considerable place, with a population of about 1000 inhabitants. It has a new Church, with 2 dissenting chapels. Sir John Morris’s extensive copper-works are here. Clasemunt, is the seat of sir John Morris, bart., and is one of the first resi¬ dences in the county. About 1 m. n-e. from this spot is Morrxston or Wychbree-bridge, over the river Tawy, with one arch, 95 feet in the span, 20 feet in altitude, with 2 cylinders over each of the haunches, built by VVm. Edwards. Wern Llynwith, is a handsome house. The Swanseacanal is worth observing, and the walk by the side of it is pleasant. The head at Hen- noyadd, in Breconshire, is 3'72 feet above the level of the Tawy at Swansea bar; there are 36 locks upon it in the space of 16m. and several aqueducts. The Swan¬ sea canal, in the course of the year 1S04, produced a gross income of 3590/. 8r. 4 d. chiefly arising from the tonnage of 54,235 tons of coal and culver, brought down and exported at Swansea. The act was obtain¬ ed 34 Geo. 3. From Morristown there is a very beautiful ride w. to Pont ar Du- las, through a rich and well inhabited country. The leading object of attraction is Penllegare, a new house, in a good style. The country e. between Morristown and Neath is miserably disfigured by the opera¬ tions of the works ; yet the first view of Gnoll Castle occupying an eminence a- bovethe town of Neath, backed by higher hills and extensive plantations, is highly favourable to the pretensions of that splen¬ did but deserted seat. The coalery, at some distance on the r. is well worth visiting, on account of the canal for the carriage of the coal to Neath. At Ynis y Gerwn, bar iron is worked into tin plates, after having been made into bars of pig-iron at a forge below. From this place to Pontneath Fechan, the gentle course of the river, with hanging woods on either side, and that felicity of soil, atmosphere, and herb¬ age peculiar to the vales in this exposure, produces a scene of pleasure, with some portion of sublimity, to which it would be difficult for any description to do jus¬ tice. After crossing the river on the return to Neath, it should be the first ob¬ ject to explore Melin Court, where there is a magnificent fall of the Cledaugh from the height of 80 feet. With the exception of the Mynach falls, this is the largest in S. Wales, and unrivalled in it’s accompani¬ ments, considered as an enclosed scene. The road from Mclin-Court to Gnoll Castle, the seat of the late sir Herbert Mackwortli, is carried along terraces, with thick woods intervening between the passenger and Neath river below. On the road to Caermarthen- there is little to amuse; yet some pleasing spots occur by the way. Pont ar Dulas lies at the distance of 9m. This bridge is a ruinous antiquated structure of 4 arches, 2 of which are dissimilar to the others. A ■ bout 4m. beyond is Hannon, a small village 1207 1268 SWANSEA. TAN-Y-BVVLCH. standing upon the brow of a lofty emi¬ nence, with a neat respectable looking church. Within 3m. of Caermarthen oc¬ curs a remarkable cwm or glen of an aw¬ ful depth, through which a current raves. The whole of this glen is seen from the main road. The vale of Towey next opens in captivated beauty. The distances are as follow. To Cwmbwla-bridge, 1m. If. (on the 1. to Llwghor, 7m.) Pentredethyn, 3f.; Cadley, 1m. 7f. cross the river Llan just above a paper-mill; Corse Inon, lm. 3f. (on the r. to Neath 10m. about lm. further cross the Liu river, which falls into the Burry river on the 1.) Camanlack, 2m. 4f. Pont ar Dulas, lm. 5f. Cross the Llwg¬ hor river, which falls into the Burry on the 1. (on the 1. to Llanelly, 6m.) Forest Bank, 5f. (on the r. is Forest Hall, Arthur Davis, esq., a road to the r. to Llandilo Fawr, 15m. About fm. further cross theGwilly, which runs to the Llwghor on the 1.) Ci- brankvyd, lm. 3f. Brymind, 6f. Llanon, lm. 4f. Pontyherem, 3m. 7f. (cross the Pontyberem river.) Llangyndeyrn, 3m. 6f. (Cross theTrwduay, which runs on the 1. to Kidwelly.) Trwduay, lm. If. (At lm. further a road lies on the 1. to Llanelly, 10m.) Pontyberrn, ( lm. (Cross the Ponty- berrn river. About lm further is a road to Neath on the r. 26m. and ^m. further on the 1. to Kidwelly, 8m. About ^m. fur¬ ther cross the Towey river, which on the r. runs from Llandilo Fawr, and on the 1. into the sea.) The lower road lies through Llanelly and Kidwelly. Upon the coast near Rosilly two extra¬ ordinary discoveries were made in the year 1807. The tides having of late receded much farther than usual, the wreck of a vessel has appeared, which was lost there about 50 years before, and a cask of iron wire was recovered. A short distance from the same spot, about 121bs, of Span¬ ish dollars, and hhlf-dollars of the date of 1625, were found among the sand, con¬ jectured to have formed part of the cargo of a Spanish vessel called the Scanderoon galley, wrecked upon that part of the coast upwards of a century before. The interesting Vale of Towey might be conveniently made an object in a route from this place, as the best accommoda¬ tions may be had at Trecastle. [See col. 196.J To Ostermoutli Castle, 4 miles, Baiber; Wyiul- ham; Malkin. To To Caermarthen, 26 miles, Donovan. — Lloughor, 8 miles, Evans. The Rev. Richard Warner ended his “ Second Walk through Wales,” at this place. To Pont ar Dulas, 12 miles, Skrine. — Neath, 9 miles. — Britton Ferry, 6 miles. — Caerdiff, 45 miles. From Beddgelert, 10 miles, Bingley. - Maentwrog, 1 mile, Atkin; Pennant; Warner. - Festiniog, 3 miles, Hutton. - Harlech, 10 miles, Evans. - Dolgelly, 18 miles, Wyndhant. Back from Harlech, 13 miles, Wyndham ; Skrine; Pennant. From Barmouth, by Dolgelly and Falls, 28 miles. - Pont Aberglaslyn, miles, Skrine. TAN-Y-BWLCH, (below the pass) is a little inn, situated on an eminence on the n-w. side of the vale of Maentwrog, im¬ proved chiefly through the munificence of the late W. Oakley, esq. Unfortunate¬ ly for his surviving friends and neighbours this gentleman suddenly paid the debt of nature in August 1811. “ In recording some memorial to his name we confess our¬ selves equally incompetent to pourtray the harmony of features, the grace and dig¬ nity of his form, and the amiable qualities of the mind of this gentleman, as we are to estimate the loss which the inhabitants of “ The happy vale,” have sustained by his death. The excellent roads formed un¬ der his direction through a district former¬ ly impassible are known to every traveller; the wastes which he has embanked and fertilized ; the barren eminences which he has planted; and, above all, the de¬ lightful exhibitions of nature, in bold and picturesque scenery, which his taste de- velloped and adorned, have afforded themes of rapture to every visitor; his beneficence has bettered the condition and made happy the dwelling of many a rus¬ tic ; and the remembrance of his private goodness will long live in the bosoms of his relatives and friends.”—The Shrews¬ bury Chronicle. Under the austere and arbitrary government of Cartwright, great discomforts have formerly occured to trav¬ ellers at this inn, especially to the pedes¬ trian. It is hoped under the management of mr. Redding, the traveller, tho’ on foot, will not have reason to complain. Through the contiguous vale winds the river Dzvyryd, and high upon a terrace, beneath a profusion of spreading groves. 1270 1269 TAN-Y-BWLCH. stands the handsome mansion of the Grif¬ fiths family, lately possessed by William Oakley, esq. which gives and receives lustre from the surrounding scenery. Af¬ ter tracing the vale to the little village of Ffstiniog, the traveller may visit the fall of Rhaiadyr du, or the black Cataract; which lies in the recess of a narrow glen, where a large stream, dashing over a high precipice of dark rocks, shaded by thick wood, presents a very picturesque object, and adds an additional ornament. Mr. Pennant remarks of this scenery as follows; “Rode up the vale, and dismounting, met the course of the Cynfael, which tum¬ bles along the bottom of a deep chasm, darkened by trees, which overspread the whole. Near Festiniog is a remarkably fine cascade, consisting of three great falls, the lowest dropping into a deep pool, black, and overshadowed by impending rocks. Below is a magnificent columnar rock, rising out of the torrent, and called Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynfael; where he is supposed to have delivered his nocturnal incantations. About lm. from the Cynfael, is a comfortable inn, which has often re¬ ceived me, after my toilsome expeditions. Opposite lies Cwm Cwmorthin. I descend¬ ed through woods, along a steep road into a very deep, but narrow valley, which I crossed, and began a hazardous and fatigu¬ ing ascent up the rocky front of a lofty mountain, the path narrow and rarely at¬ tempted by horses. After the labour of a mile, reached the habitations of two far¬ mers, in a hollow surrounded on 3 sides by the rudest of environs, containing a pretty lake. This cwm produces nothing but grass. The mountains which enclose it, are the Moel wyn yr Hydd, and the Mod- wyn Cwyn, and others equally rude. High in the first is the lake Du bach ; and another called Llyn trwstyllon; and opposite to the last, a third, called Llyn conglug. Wound up a narrow path at the farthest end, upon part of Molwy n y hydd, in order to descend through CwmCroesor. In our descent, our poor beasts trembled in every limb; and, in fact, escaped wonderfully in reaching the bottom. The traveller who chooses to follow our steps, will find a narrow grassy bottom in Cwm croesor, with a few tene¬ ments : lie will pass through a pretty wood, and soon after find himself uponthe high road from Tan-y-bwlch to Caernar¬ von. In this journey, I went from Fes¬ tiniog, on the road from Trawsfynydd to Yspylty, and not 2m. thence fell into FJbrd Helin, which is here quite bare, and ex¬ hibits the rude stones with which it was made. Near it, at Rhydyr Halen, on the r. are the remains of Beddau gwyr Ardudwy, the graves of the men of Ardudwy. The tradition relating to these monuments is nearly parallel with the rape of the Sa¬ bines. The men of Ardudwy, made an incursion into the vale of Clwyd and brought away a number of women, whom they conducted in safety to this place, where they were overtaken by the war¬ riors of the vale. A battle ensued, and the men of Ardudwy were all slain; but they had gained so much upon the affections of their fair prey, that, rather than return home they rushed into an adjacent water, called, from this event, Llyn y morwynion, the maiden’s lake, where they perished. Hence I descended the tedious steep of Bwlch carreg y fran, into the narrow vale of Penmacltno: and, after ascending anoth¬ er hill, turned to the r. into the black and moory mountains to visit Llyn Conwy, the source of the river of that name. In it are 3 islands. Descended for 2 or 3m. and reached the village of Yspylty Efan, or the hospital of saint John of Jerusalem, so called from having been an asylum for travellers. It afterwards became a den of thieves and murderers who were extir¬ pated by Mercdydd ap Evan. Another charity succeeded, in the alms-houses for 6 poor men, founded in 1600, by captain Richard Vaughan, of Windsor, descended from a neighbouring house called Pont glas. In the church are 3 alabaster figures. The first is the valiant Rhys Fawr ap Mere- dydd, of the house of Plas Yolyn ; to whom at the battle of Bosworth, Henry 7 entrust¬ ed the standard of England, after it’s bear¬ er sir William Brandon, had been slain by Richard : the next, his son Robert ap Rhys, chaplain to cardinal Wolsey ; and the third, Lowry, wife of Rhys. From Yspytty I made an excursion to Capel Voelas, distant 2m. remarkable for a great column, with an inscription in memory of Llewelyn, prince of Wales, who was slain in the year 1021. Here is likewise a vast artificial mount, the site of a welsh castelet, de¬ stroyed by Llewelyn the great. Hence turned back, and reached the river Conwy. Afier a short ride, arrived at the celebrated falls called Rhaiadyr y Craig Llwyd, not 1*271 TAN-Y-BWLCH. 1272 very far from the junction of the Mackno with the Conwy river; where from the neighbourhood of a fulling-mill, the pros¬ pect is very extraordinary. The channel of the rivers form a triangle of deep chasms, worn through the rock. At a short dis¬ tance below, occurs the cataract, the most tremendous I ever saw. The descent is steep. When down I found myself envi¬ roned by naked precipices, faced with an¬ gular columnar rocks, pointing, in a slop¬ ing direction towards the river.” De¬ scend a steep hill, pass over Pont ar Leder, and arrive in Nani Conwy, or the vale of Conwy. Observe, in the course of the Conwy, a deep, wide, and still water, called Llyn yr Afangc, or the beaver’s pool, from being anciently haunted by those animals, whose skins were in such esteem as to be valued at 120tf. the mar¬ tin’s not more than 24 <1., an ermine 12 d., an otter, wolf, or fox, only at 12rf. They constituted the chief finery of the days of Howell dda. The vale gradually expands, and extending about 20m. terminates at the town of Conwy. Visit the church of Bettws wyrion Iddon, or the bead-house of the grand-children of Iddon. Within is the figure of Gruffydd ap Dafydd Goch, son of Dafydd Goch, natural son of Dafydd, brother to the last prince of Wales. A lit¬ tle farther pass by Pont y pair, a singular bridge, flung over the Llugwy ; the scen¬ ery here is very striking. After a steep ascent arrive at Dolwyddelan Castle. A rapid ascent from Tan-y bwlch to Pont Aberglasllyn, with oak groves and a rapid brook on the 1. and a bold ac¬ clivity on the other hand leads to an emi¬ nence whence Crickaeth Castle is percep¬ tible on one side, and Snowdon on the other. The soil for many miles is poor and gravelly, and the rocks appear of a burnt colour occasioned by the air acting upon the iron with which they are impreg¬ nated. Slate is here of the finest colour and compact texture. In the bogs grow abundance of the Narthecium ossifragum, and Dutch Myrtle. Transitions of scenery on this track are rapid, occasioned by the road winding among masses of rocks, but the prevailing character is scattered rock in the fore ground with naked and lofty mountains in the distance. Come in sight of Traeth Mawr, a level tract of sea marsh¬ es, extending to the vicinity of Pont Aber¬ glasllyn, and forming an irregular shore. In turning amangle of the road the scenery becomes inexpressibly grand. Snowdon towers above the surrounding mountains, while rocks and precipices, vast, irregular and impending, overhang the path. Steril as is this district, it is not entirely uninhab¬ ited, for some scattered cottages appear, in sheltered recesses. Enter a narrow rocky pass, railed towards the declivity, where oaks begin to diversify the rocks. The Traeth Mawr appears now to be hemmed in on every side by majestic rbeks amid which descend to Pont Aberclasllyn. From Tan-y-bwlch to Beddcellert, by the road, is not more distant than 8m. of which the greater part is not very in¬ teresting; mr. Aikin determined there¬ fore, to explore the windings of the coast, and found great reason to be satisfied with his deviation from the direct way. Quit¬ ting the inn, he proceeded beneath the woods which embower the hall to the edge of the Traeth Bychan, which being perfectly land-locked and bounded by steep cliffs, seems a fine lake beautifully bordered by a line of woods. After walk¬ ing above a mile on it’s banks, he ascend¬ ed from the Traeth in a n-w. direction, and from an elevated part of the road, came suddenly upon a grand view of Traeth Mawr, Traeth Bychan, and Bach, the en¬ trance of Maentwrog vale, some lofty mountains in the vicinity of Snowdon, and Harlech castle, which, tho’ 4m. dis¬ tant, was brought near the eye by a light mist which hung in that quarter. In the marsh pools on the shore of the Traeths grows the Nymphsea alba. In the pools and ditches of the marshes covered by the tide, Ruppiamaritima. Hence he proceed, ed through the scattered and populous hamlet of Minfordd to the edge of Traeth Mawr, and then crossed a large extent of salt marshes covered by the sea at high water : at the extremity of these he ford¬ ed a river, and gaining dry land, walked, rather uncertain of his way, through many fine meadows, till he arrived at Pont Aber¬ glasllyn. The direct turnpike-road is suf¬ ficiently passable for carriages. To Dolcelly, the road lies, for several miles, over the mountain, and on clear days, the summit of Snowdon ir. the n., and the heights of Cader Idris in the s., may easily be discerned. After passing the mean village of Trawsfynnydd, mr. Skrine proceeded to view the famous cas- 1271 1273 TAN-Y-BWLCII. TEX BURY. cade of Dolymleynllyn, where the Gamlan, rushing down a rapid slope, falls, in an al¬ most perpendicular cataract, over the side of an immense rock, dashing into spray, and foaming in a broken and impetuous torrent, into the valley below. This part of the country, is remarkable for it’s wa¬ ter-falls. Those of Pistyll y Cayne and Rhaiadyr y Mawddach, not many miles distant, arc equally interesting and pic¬ turesque. [See col. 470.] Mr. Wyndham took a Cicerone from Tan y bwlch who conducted him wrong both to and from Harlech. The pretending welsh guides will blunder over the coun¬ try, and lest their knowledge should be suspected will make no enquiry about the road. In the present case mr. W. was led to the very point of a precipice; and in passing over the sands, his guide would not lead the way. A welsh guide when really alarmed becomes more terrified than those he pretends to conduct. [See col. 867.] Back from Harlech, 10miles; thence to Doljelly, 18 miles, Sltrine. To Dohvyddelan Castle, 21 miles, Pennant. — Maentwrog, J mile, Bingley; Wyndham; Skrine. — Pont Aberglasllyn, 6J miles, Warner; Wynd¬ ham. — Bcddgelart, 8^ miles. TENBURY (anciently Tametdeberie, probably from the river Teme) a market town and parish in the hundred of Dodding- tree, Worcestershire, situated upon the riv¬ er Teme. In 1801 it contained 196 houses, and 905 inhabitants, exclusive of the ham¬ let called the Foreign ; containing 44 hous¬ es, and 253 inhabitants. The market is on Tuesdays, and it’s fairs are 25th April, 18th July, and 26th September. Here are an¬ nual horse-races. On the n. side of the town is a handsome stone bridge of 6 arch¬ es, over the river Teme, which here sepa¬ rates the counties of Worcester and Salop. The Church has undergone some consid¬ erable repairs and presents a neat struc¬ ture. In the e. window of the chancel are the arms of one of the Mortimers. In the highest s. window of the chancel is a man armed, representing Richard Bosan- non, behind him his wife. In the lower n. window of the chancel, a man (John Hull) armed. Under an arch in the n. wall of the chancel is the figure of a child in armour; there is a similar figure in Ma- pouder church, Dorset. In the highest window of the s. aisle are Acton’s arms, defaced. Underneath, a raised tomb of a knight, named Sturmy. Opposite is an alabaster figure to Tho. Acton, of Sutton, esq. Upon flat stones in the chancel are recorded the names of the rev. Charles Sa- bery, a.m. vicar of Tenbury, died 19th Dec. 1716; mrs. Mary Sabery, his wife; John Smyth, his wife, and son, 1700; Margaret Smyth, 1692; John Smyth, 1693; Ann, his wife, 1683; Mary Ward, 6 Feb. 1703; Robert Hemming, 13 Sep. 1691; Edmund Lane, with Patience his wife, 3 sons, and 1 daughter; Beatrice Katherine Carver, 28 June, 1728. Upon the n. wall a monument to Patience wife of Edmund Lane. In thes. aisle, Charles Green, jun. 1728; Tho. Lane, 1719, Eliz. his daugh¬ ter, 1729. The great flood, Nov. 17, 1770, threw down the s. and middle aisles of the church, by which the windows, organ, &c. were broken , and the monuments being much injured, were not put up a- gain in the same places as before. Burford, distant lm. on the road to Lud¬ low, is a beautiful village, stationed upon the banks of the Teme, the residence of genteel families only. In the Church is a monument to Edmund Cornwall, baron of Burford. with his portrait in a shroud, painted upon board. Tradition tells won¬ derful stories of his size and strength; he is here represented as 7 feet and 3 inches long. There are several other monuments in memory of this family, but the church is damp, they are rapidly perishing, and will soon be illegible. Dr. Nash transcrib¬ ed the following. “ Here lyeth the bodie of the noble princess Elizabeth, daughter of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, own sister to king Henry 4, wife of John Hol¬ land, carl of Huntingdon, and duke of Exeter, after married to sir John Corne- wayll, knight of the garter, and lord Fan- hope. She died in the 4th year of Henry 6, a. d. m.cccc. xxvi.” Near her, upon a wooden moveable monument, a man in armour, reclined upon his helmet, suppos¬ ed to be the husband of princess Elizabeth, but the inscription is nearly defaced. Hab- ingdon has given the character of Edmund Cornwall, in the following words. “ He was in mind an emperor, from whom he descended; in wit and stile so rare, to 1275 TENBURY. TENBY. 1278 comprise in a few words, and that so clear¬ ly, such store of matter, as I scarce ever saw any to equal him, none to excel him. He was mighty of body, but very comely, and exceeded in strength all men of his age ; for his own delight he had a dainty touch on the lute, and of such sweet har¬ mony in his nature, as, if ever he offended any, were he never so poor, he was not friend with himself, till he was friend with him again; he led a single life, and before his strength decayed, entered the gate of death.” To Ludlow, on the high road, Burford, lm. Little Hereford, Church, IJm. (on the r. Rich. Dansey, esq., on the 1. is the road to Kington, 17£m. to Presteign, 15m.) Brimfield-cross, l£m. on the 1. to Leomins¬ ter, 7^m. Brimfield Church, 3f. Cross the Kington Canal to Woofferton-cross, 3f. Ash¬ ford Bowdler, lm. 3f. On the opposite side of the river is Ashford Carbonell. (On the r. — Green, esq. on the 1. Ashford-hall, G. C. Ricketts, esq. l£m. further on the r. is the Saltmoor Well, and near Ludlow, on the 1. is Ludford-housc and park.) Cross the Teme to Ludlow, 2m. 7f. To Leominster, occurs Burford, Little Hereford, and Brimfield cross, as above men¬ tioned. Brimfield, §m. (Brimfield Court, Charles Heathcote, esq.) Ashton, 2jjm. (on r. Berrington, lady Rodney,.) Stockton- berry-cross, 2m. Cross the Lugg river to Leominster, IJm. To Worcester, 22^ mites. — Ludlow, ft miles. — Leominster, 11 miles. — Bromyard, 13 miles. — Hereford, 16 miles. From Llaugharne, 16 miles, Barber; Skrine. - Pembroke, 10 miles, Malkin; Fenton. - Manorbeer Castle, 5 miles, Donovan. — Narberth, 7 miles, Evans; Warner. TENBY, or Dinbych y Pysgod, in the hundred of Narberth, Pembrokeshire; a place perhaps unequalled for the beauty of it’s bay and convenience of sea-bathing. The town stretches along the e. and w. sides of an irregularly formed peninsula, rising above the sea in bold and craggy precipices. Tenby, from an important fortress and a port of considerable commer¬ cial consequence, had become a poor neg¬ lected fishing town. Hence the spirit of trade has not destroyed many remains of former times. It’s attractions, however, as a delightful residence has rescued it from oblivion. In the year 1790 the place was almost deserted, but since that time it has become a favourite resort to the fashion¬ able and luxurious. To the painter’s eye the beautifully coloured masses of rock, the various effects of light and shade pro- duced by many bays and promontories, specimens of singular architecture, and the entrance and departure of vessels into the harbour, are objects which prove high¬ ly interesting: the naturalist will be en¬ gaged by the produce of the rocks, the sands, and shores : and he who finds a gratification in tracing the origin and pro¬ gress of his rude forefathers, may here find ample employment in various frag¬ ments and inscriptions. Inns. Shaw’s Hotel, Jenkins’s hotel, the Lion, the Ball. These places afford the best accommodations to families and temporary residents. Good private lodg¬ ings may be had in every part of the town; also entire houses ready furnished. In ad¬ dition to weekly assemblies, there are at Tenby, a theatre, bowling-green, billiard- table, a public card assembly-room, and an excellent circulating library, where the London papers may be seen. Saddle hors¬ es may be hired on easy terms, at several places in the town ; but carriages or post- chaises, cannot be procured nearer than Narberth, Tavernspite, or Pembroke. The only public conveyance from London, is the Milford-mail, through Narberth, dis¬ tant from Tenby 10m. every day about 2 p.m. There is also a coach through Glo- cester and Brecon, as far as Caermarthen, three times a week. The season here commences in May and continues till the latter end of October. Tenby may certain¬ ly be considered a most delightful summer retreat, and is every year increasing in publicity and convenience. The town is governed by a mayor, town clerk, justice, a council, and an unlimited number of aldermen and burgesses, who in conjunc¬ tion with the boroughs of Pembroke and Whiston, return one member to parlia¬ ment. Quarterly courts of Sessions are held. The town is indebted to the spirit and liberality of sir Wm. Paxton, for having remedied the defect of want of water. The worthy knight purchased a considerable property in the town, part of the ancient possessions of the Whites, and the many 1277 TENBY. 127S improvements that he has made evince a partiality for the place. The most con¬ spicuous instance of his liberality is the erection of the Public Baths after the de¬ signs of mr. Cockerell. This building was constructed for the purpose of supplying visitors with the most convenient means of bathing, either Tor health or pleasure, in all seasons and during any hour. The water of large reservoirs is changed every tide, whence the different Baths are sup¬ plied. The building is inclosed and roof¬ ed. One swimming bath is appropriated to the ladies and another is for gentlemen, with dressing-rooms to each; and four private cold baths for single persons. Sev¬ eral warm and vapour baths, with dressing- rooms, tempered with warm air, and a cupping-room, are fitted up with the latest improvements. Bed-rooms are provided in the bathing-house for invalids. A hand¬ some room for the bathers, their friends, and company to assemble in, commands a view of the sea and harbour; it is provid¬ ed with refreshments, so as to form a fash¬ ionable morning lounge. An excellent carriage road leads to the Bath-house, and th^re is a spacious vestibule for servants to wait in. The building is pleasantly situated adjoining the Castle-hill, on the outside of the harbour. Within, appears the busy scene of traffic; without, the varying expanse of ocean. The bathing machines are the property of the innkeep¬ ers ; the terms Is. each time, and 6d. the guide. The water is always remarkably clear, and the bottom excellent. The Trade of Tenby consists of coal and culm, and the oyster and trawle fisheries. The first is carried on by vessels from 30 to 150 tons burthen, which convey coal and culm to various places in the Bristol, Irish, and British channels. They take in their car¬ goes chiefly at Sandersfoot, at 3m. distant. In the year 1803 there was cleared out at the Custom-house 539 vessels ; their car¬ goes amounting to about 45,000 tons. The oyster-fishery yields a supply of from 30 to 40 thousand in a day. They are chiefly shipped for Liverpool and Bristol; others are pickled and sent in jars to London and other places. The trawle fishery carried on from April to Oct. by about 15 smacks of 30 tons each, afford an abundant supply to the various surrounding markets and to those of Bristol and Bath. The Markets are on Wednesday and Saturday. The Fairs are held May 4, Whit-Tuesday, July 31, Oct. 2, Dec. 4. The Quay is generally well lined with vessels, and the whole seems to bespeak an air of opulence. The Views from Tenby are various, pleasing, and di¬ versified. The n-e. embraces the whole of Caermarthen Bay, including part of the Pembrokeshire coast from Tenby to Earc Wear ; the whole of the Caermarthenshire coast from Eare Wear to the Burry river, and part of the Glamorganshire coast, from the Burry to the Worm’s head. The dis¬ tance across is from 15 to 25m. A line of slate and limestone cliffs, vary ing from 100 to 200 feet in height, extends n. from the town, forming numerous small bays and promontories, till bending e. it terminates nearly 2m. off at Monkstone point. Be¬ yond this point the coast again recedes and forms the bay Sandisfoo'c. The coast is seen next at Amroth, and stretching e. it retires from sight towards the Burry, and the low parts of Gower. The Caermar¬ thenshire Van and other mountains, break the horizon at the distance of 40m. The Aberafon Hills near Neath, and the smoke from copper-works beyond Swansea are visible; and in clear weather the town and castle of Cidwelly. Beyond Penclawd the land swells more pleasingly, and ter¬ minates in the Worm’s head. Further on the Devonshire mountains are faintly dis¬ tinguishable, at 3 leagues distance. On the other side, Caldey Island, and St. Mar¬ garet’s Island, from the w. horn of Caer¬ marthen Bay. These continue the horizon to Giltar Point, 2m. w. of Tenby. On the land side, are the church and village of Penally.—Norris’s Tenby. The archi¬ tectural remains of this district are numer¬ ous. Within the distance of 20m. from Tenby we have Llaucharne, 15m. Llan- stephan, 19m. Kidwelly, 20m. and Manorbeer, 5m. on the shore : and upon the different inlets of Milford Haven, we have Carey, 7m. Pembroke, 10m. Benton, 10m. Llanhaden, 13m. Haverfordwest Castle and Priory, 20m. Hubberstone Priory, 18m. Narberth Castle, 10m. Lam- pliey court, 7m. Picton Castle, 16m. Stack- pole Court, 15m. The town has been walled, with gates, that leading to Caer¬ marthen is the most remarkable, being en¬ circled with an embattled but open roofed tower, after the manner of that at Pem¬ broke. The extent of the wall on the land side, which encloses only a part of the 1279 TENBY. 1280 town, is 512 yards, and the height about 21 feet: this is furnished with embrazures, and flanked by 2 square and 5 half-moon towers. The s. wall, seated upon a rock, rises 77 feet above the level of the sea at high water : and through one of the semi¬ circular, which is now fitted up as a depot for government stores, is an entrance into the town, by a passage called the South gate, formerly defended by an iron portcul¬ lis. The North gate, having fallen into decay, has been removed, so that the old town, as it is called, and the Norton or North-town, form one continued street, a- bout Jm. in length. Besides these gate¬ ways, there are 2 more on the sea-side, one leading to the pier, and the other to the south sand. See mr. Norris’s “ Etch¬ ings of Tenby, including many ancient Edifices which have been destroyed, in¬ tended to illustrate the most striking pe¬ culiarities in early Flemish architecture, with a short account of the town and of the principal Buildings in it’s neighbour¬ hood.” 40 prints, \l. 11s. 6 length, and 83 in breadth. Upon the tower is a lofty and elegant spire of bath-stone, which is painted white, to serve as an object from the sea. It can be seen at the distance of several leagues, and is considered the high¬ est in Wales, measuring 152 feet. The roof is supported by arcades, having fluted pillars; the ceiling is formed of carved wood, ornamented at the intersection of the ribs, with various armoral bearings, and supported by human figures, spring¬ ing from the pillars of wood. The altar- piece is neat, the steps to the communion¬ table are of purbeck-stone. The interior contains some fine old monuments. At the w. end of the s. aisle, there is one erected to the memory of John Moore, esq. who is said to have fallen passionately in love at the age of 58, notwithstanding he had 1281 TENBY, 1282 had 8 children in marriage. The object of his passion disregarding his affection, he pined into a consumption, and died at Tenby. The monument bears this in¬ scription. “ He that from home for love was hither brought, is now brought home; this God for him hath wrought.” Itis not improbable that the sense has been misunderstood, and that the sentence may have been intended to express that he who was brought from an earthly home by the affection of his Iriends is now brought to one that is heavenly through the power of God. The w. door is a curious specimen of mixed gothic, and the carved ceiling of the nave is well executed. Under a rich pedimented arch, on one side of the n. door is an effigy of an emaciated person, naked, with a winding sheet partly thrown over the body, supposed to be Tully bp. of St. David’s. On the other side the door, under an arch is the effigy of a beautiful female. Another monument is to the memory of Thomas ap Rees, of Scotsbor- ough, and his family. A tombstone upon the floor of this aisle is inscribed with the name Walter Vaughan, 4lh Jan. 1637 : the Vaughan of Dunraven, who is said to have hnng out false lights to mislead manners, &c. But the monument most worthy of notice is that of the Whites, under the arch wflich divides the s. aisle from the chan¬ cel ; a family, who flourished here in trade and opulence above a century. It re¬ presents two male figures, recumbent, habited in long robes, with large pockets at their girdles, and caps thrown back. An ancient edifice stands within a few feet of the w. entrance, now used for a school. A flight of steps on the outside leads to the apartment. Near the steps is a small arch, of the time of Henry 7. Two other arches are in an old wall, opposite the school. These are supposed to have been the principal entrances to St. Mary's Col¬ lege, once a convent of Carmelite Friars, founded by John de Swynemore, a. d. 1399. St. John’s Chapel, is situated in a marshy spot 2 or 300 yards from the town. St. Julian's Chapel stands upon the Pier, near it’s extremity. It was degraded first into a bath, and then into a warehouse. Opposite the town are the wild masses of rock which form the Islands of St. Cath¬ arine, and more distant St. Margaret and Caldy. Eastward of the town stretch the 42 Norton Sands, which are bounded by grand and uncommonly high cliffs, of a black granite; on those sands are several bathing machines. Round the s. and w. sides of the town are the IVhite or IVhit sands, in many respects superior to the Norton Sands, presenting ? most romantic and agreeable walk, '2m. in length either close to the rocks, or by the sea side, to G iltar, a noble promontory of black granite. Mr. Fentonincompany withsir Richard Hoare, took boat from the pier of Tenby to visit Caldy, landing in a little bay just under the principal mansion, which is reached by a gentle ascent from the water. It con¬ sists of a handsome modern building, join¬ ed to an aggregate of ancient miscellan¬ eous masonry. The ancient tower of the Priory church,crowned with a stone spire, still remains entire. All the lower apart¬ ments of the old house and it’s offices arc vaulted. In the room which appears to have been the chancel, the tracery of the great e. window, tho’ now stopped up may be followed. The refectory, used as a kitchen, has a very curious arched roof, with many doors, which perhaps led to the dormitory. A gravestone, now ly¬ ing on mr. Kynaston’s garden, was taken from among the ruins of the priory. The inscription is much effaced. Mr. Fenton read plainly “ORENT PRO AN1M CADUOCANI.” which shews that it commemorated an ear¬ ly prior named Cadwgan. The priory was probably founded by Robert, son of Martin de Turribus, soon after the date of the charter of endowment to his abbey of St. Dogmeals, to which it was annexed. To the r. of the road, going down to the beach, there is an old chapel. The island is about lm. long and half as broad; it consists of 611 acres, 200 of which are enclosed and in good cultivation. The w. end is lime¬ stone, and the opposite a red rab. It a- bounds with rabbits. In William of Wor¬ cester’s time it contained 30 houses; in the time of Geo. Owen 8 or 10. At the s-w. end of the island lies St. Margaret's or Little Cakley, hiving upon it the ruins of a large chapel, belonging to lord Mil¬ ford, as part of his manor of Manorbeer and Penaley. At the dissolution, Caldey, with the Abbey of St. Dogmaels, was pur¬ chased by George Bradshaw; in queen Elizabeth’s time sold to Walter Philpin of Tenby ; descended to a family called 1283 TENBY. 1284 Reeve ; then to Williams of Cefngorwydd ; sold to the earl of Warwick; purchased by lnr. Kynaston, who resides there. The Margaret's Island, separated from Caldy, by an abrupt chasm, is small and rocky, inhabited only by rabbits. Mr. Owen is enclosing Tenby Marsh, by which he expects to realize a considerable property. The following marine excursion, was made by mr. Donovan, in one of the open pleasure-boats of the place. It was scarce¬ ly twilight when he doubled the projec¬ tion of the point, which he describes as inexpressibly bold and romantic, when viewed from his station in the boat. By slow degrees, the morning mists shrunk before the god of day, disclosing to the w. the obtrusive features of Leadstep point, with Staekpole-head, and the point of Gower faintly receding beyond; in front, the town of Tenby, rising with dignity uppn an aspiring rock. Round Caldy Island he caught in a trawl-net many of the Med¬ usae, particularly the species purpura, and cruciata. On the s-w. side of this island are obtained oysters of an uncommon size. This oyster-bed brings a number of asterias, echini, and other creatures, their enemies. The species of the latter, most injurious to the young spat or spawn of the oyster, is the esculentus, which grows here to a large size. The most abundant of the As¬ terias genus were the glacial is, and the common sort; Papposa, or thirteen ray¬ ed star-fish, is of a beautiful carmine col¬ our. He collected also fine specimens of Asterias lacertosa, Sphae ralata, andocula- ta. Also Cancer tuberosus, and C.asper. Proceeding up the island, mr. Donovan found it thinly inhabited and in a meagre state of cultivation. He understood it to be the property of one principal farmer. Dur¬ ing this excursion a squall oveitook the voyagers, their tattered sail was torn, and an unlucky wave half filled their boat with water. After being exposed to the rage of contending elements in the open sea for nearly an hour, the wind fortunately shifted and a furious gust drove them ra¬ pidly towards the rocks, s-w. of Tenby, and towards evening the tide ebbed, and the squall subsided. On the adjacent shore mr. Donovan found the Tellina depressa, T. sqaiida, of Solander, and T. fabulai numbers also of the Sabella tubiformes shell, with the living Neries, Mya Prae- tenuis, Solen ensis, and Voluta tornatilis. In a geologic view, the rocks of Tenby and island of Caldy have been explored by Woodward Llwyd, and mr. Adams of Pem¬ broke, the last unfortunately perished by the upsetting of a pleasure boat, with those who were with him. The Torpedo and oblong Diodon have been observed in this part of the Severn sea. Among an abun¬ dance of fish caught on the adjacent shores are the turbot, brill, soles, scate, and most of the ray tribe. A fine aquatic excursion is pointed out by mr. Malkin from Tenby Harbour, across Caerniarthen Bay, passing Monk- stone-Head, and making either for Laugh- arne Pont at the mouth of the Taw, or for Llan Stephen Pont, at the mouth of the Towey, which is navigable as far as Caer- marthen Bridge. A party may hire a skiff at Tenby, and accomplish their landing under Llan Stephan Castle in one tide; but they will probably be obliged to find their way by land to Caermarthen, not¬ withstanding the assurances of the boat¬ men to the contrary. For those who do not affect the pleasure of sailing, there is a fine walk, or RtDE, principally along the sands, from Tenby to Llaugharne. At a place called New Inn, about half the way, there is no public accommodation. At a little distance there is an old mansion, about the date of Elizabeth, built as a ma¬ rine villa, close to the sand. Near Pendine there is a natural cavern under the road; but it is so low that a person can scarcely stand upright at the entrance, and the rill passing through it is inconsiderable. The scenery around, is verdant, woody, and pretty. The descent to Llaucharne is highly romantic; the town is built on the edge of a marsh, in a very low situation, open to the sea, and backed by very high grounds. Mr. Warner passed to Caermarthen by way of Tavernspite and St. Clare, about 15 miles, chiefly by a foot-path, which skirted the coast, and presented a fine view of Caermarthen bay, the country wearing a pleasing character, diversified by broad vales and swelling hills, increasing in rich¬ ness and beauty. To Pembroke a natural terrace may be pursued, traced on a ridge of hills, which commands extensive views, over almost the whole of the county, and a great part of the Bristol channel; it should after¬ wards be quitted for the sake of descend, 1285 TENBY. 1-86 ing towards the sea-coast, in search of the gloomy remains of Manorbber Castle, which is wildly situated between 2 small hills. Mr. Evans left the castle of Manor- beer on the 1. and the castellated mansion of Carew on the r. and descended to the ruins of Lamphey, formerly a palace belonging to the see of St. David; a mile beyond which is Pembroke. On this road, also, is Stackpole Court, [see 1033.] In this di¬ rection Manorbeer castle may be visited, at about 5m. from Tenby near the sea. On a varied route to Cilgerran Cas¬ tle, mr. Fenton, on quitting Tenby turn¬ ed to the r. and took the road which leads to Sander’s Foot, passing through what once was the foresty tract, called Coedtraeth, in Leland’s time covered with fine timber, of which a few old stools only remain. To the 1. upon a conspicuous eminence stands the old mansion of Cilgetty, formerly the residence of the family of Canon ; after¬ wards united to the Pictons, by marriage. Sir Thomas Canon was a man of great wealth, power, and learning, in the reign of James 1. Here is a small deer park belonging lordPicton.anda valuable coal- ery, the produce of which is chiefly ship¬ ped at Sander’s foot. Hen Castle or Hengastell, (the old castle) once the resi¬ dence of David Williams, of Edwinsford, in Carmarthenshire, is now the property of Thomas Stokes, esq. in right of his first wife, in whom centred what remained of the name of Wogan and of the great pos¬ sessions of Wiston. Bonvil’s Court, in sight of this road, bears some remains of baronial greatness. It was possessed by one of the early norman settlers named De Bonville. Crossing some romantic dingles, pass near the edge of the crumbly cliff which separates Sander’s foot from Eare Wear, and pass a Danish earthwork, thus distinguished by the principal agger having it’s curve towards the land side. Descend to Eare Wear (planites maritima) atract of flat land near the sea. There is no doubt but the sea has made considerable encroachments here, as in the neighbour¬ hood of Llaugharne, Cidwelly, and the shores of Monmouthshire, After every storm, when the violent retiring of the tide has washed away the sands, great roots of trees have been and still arc laid bare with the mark of the axe on some of them; and, says mr. Fenton, I have been able to distinguish by chips cut off from them several different sorts; and here Coed traeth, implying a wood upon the sandy shore or beach, preserves it’s ancient name. The house of Eare Wear, now moderniz¬ ed into Amroth Castle, was in the 15th century a settlement of the Elliots. The present proprietor is captain Ackland, by purchase from a female representa¬ tive of the Elliots. The most judiciously assimulating additions have been made, so as to give it every appendage of luxu¬ ry and convenience. Even the antique porch is nicely preserved. The con¬ servatory and grapery are entered from the dining parlour, once a vault roofed ale cellar or castle prison. A portion of this vault remains unaltered. From the lawn is a striking view of Tenby. Proceed upon a road to the 1. of the lawn, from the s>w. sheltered by a high hill well wooded, which passes through many intricate little dingles. Pass the church of Amroth with a tower oddly disposed of, to Ludchurch, situated upon a lime-stone rock, which has been reduced on every side. The quarry lies in horizontal strata, is black, beautifully veined and variegated with shells. This road, which is very bad in wet weather, falls into the highway lead¬ ing from Narberlh to Caermarthen, at Coldblowgate. Pass Blaen Gzeydd nae, formerly a grange belonging to the Abbey of Whilland. Upon rising ground bounding this dell, towards the sea, are slight re¬ mains of extensive earthworks, whence there is a view of great extent, variety, and beauty. A little further on, and within ^m.of Tavernspite, about lOOyards out of the road, in a field, is a large tumu¬ lus, called Crugy svollt. Mr. Fenton, here mustered a number of labourers, who made an opening in the centre, but finding no treasure they abated in their exertions, and would not go on. Mr. Fenton then laid hold of a pick-axe and letting it fall near the outer edge of the section, he un¬ fortunately broke the urn in two. “ It lay within a few inches of the outer sward, with it’s mouth up. It was not large, very rude, totally unotnamented, and bell- shaped. It contained ashes and some fragments of ill calcined bones. After dig¬ ging to the depth of 5 feet, an immense bed of charcoal appeared, ending in a large irregular cist, branching out in various di¬ rections, full of ashes and burnt bones. The labourers growing tired, mr. Fenton 12S7 TENBY. 1^8« abandoned the design of coming in contact with the primary interment. A little on the s f. of this tumulus, in the centre of an oval enclosure, formed by a faint earthen agger, lies upon the ground, a large flat stone, about 18 feet long, 4 broad, and a- bout 2 feet thick, towards which led a pitched avenue, like an old roman road, still to be traced as far as the turnpike. J’avernspite is an inn where post-chaises are kept, and the Milford mail stops to change horses. The original name of this place was Tavern y spitty, i.e. the inn raised from the ruins of an hospitium, which had been founded there for the ac¬ commodation of the pilgrim traveller to the shrine of St. Davids. To the r. of this inn is a great extent of wild heathy ground, inclosed by a wall, which skirts the road for a mile, built of stone and mortar. At the e. extremity there is a small building, like part of a square bastion or an ancient lodge. Bleak and exposed as the inn at Tavcrnspite is, yet on the N.side, it com¬ mands a view over the richly cultivated and wooded vales of Llandewy, and Lam¬ peter, of singular beauty. Crossing the vale of Llandewy upon the summit of the hill above the church, and occupying a projecting point of it, is an encampment in a strong position, strengthened by 3 lines of circumvallation to the n. and the w.; on the e. by a very deep and precipi¬ tous ravine, and on the s. by a single val¬ lum. A little farther on the w. but in the same line, is another entrenchment called the Caerau. This is a large circular space upon a high ridge with a single agger. Having proceeded thus far from Tenby, mr. Fenton recollected that he was not far from the supposed course of a roman road, which led from the city of Maridunum, (Caer- marthen) through the vale of Whitland, and the station of Ad Vicessimum to Me- napia near St. Davids; and that mr. Lewis of Hcnllan, in this neighbourhood, had promised to shew him some portions of it. An old road in some places intersected by fences, and in others taken up, cannot be followed to any extent in a direct line. Detached fragments therefore can only be connected with the compass in one’s hand. The first portion is near Glanryd, entering a boggy piece of ground called Corssched, and up through Glanryd-garden, to Park yr F.glwys, a field to the n. of the chapel of Castell Dwyran ; thence inclining n. till it is lost in the present high road leading from Glanrhyd, without those fields, and hold¬ ing a direct course to the n.w. for a few miles, and pointing exactly to the Ad Vi¬ cessimum. This is called Fordd Helen, and by some the road of Howel Dda. Here cross a part of Carmarthenshire to Llandyssilio, in George Owen’s time called Llandyssilio yn Nhyved, i. e. in Dyfed, Pembrokeshire. After passing the unin¬ teresting tract, of common called Rhos Llandyssilio, where nothing worth notice occurs, except a solitary Maenhir, traverse the skirts of that unenclosed waste called Llanfyrnach mountain, in descending to¬ wards the Tafe. Here upon the margin of that river, pass through a finely wooded vale, by an ancient place called Blaidd pwll, (the pit of the wolves) vulgarly, Bri- biell; formerly the residence of the pow¬ erful Jenkin Llwyd of Camaes; and tho' long since deserted, it still retains it’s ven¬ erable forest trees, among which are two remarkably large sweet chesnuts. Pursue the vale not far distant from the margin of the river, come to Llanfyrnach church, with a glebe house contiguous. Not far from the church, near a farm house, is an immense tumulus. Following the course of the Tafe, reach the lead-mines of Llan. fyrnach, situated close to the banks of the river, once a great work, now dormant, belong to Thomas Lloyd, of Bronwydd. The roads of this district are expected to be much improved under the act for en¬ closing various wastes in the lordship of Cemaes. The vale now contracts and the Tafe dwindles into an insignificant stream. In ascending to the mountain’s ridge that connects the Presselly hills with those of Carmarthenshire, large quarries of slate called Glog, lie on the 1. Upon the summit of the mountain are several tumuli scattered over it. A few hundred yards out of Pembrokeshire into Carmar¬ thenshire is a place called Henfeddau, i.e. the old graves. They are lines of parallel ridges overgrown with heath, lying a little to the r. of the ancient road thereabouts, called Sarnau , or the pavements. A little to the w. of this spot, on each side of a narrow dingle, there is a small circular earthwork. The old pitching exists in many places of these causeways. The general bearing is from s-e. to n-w. point¬ ing to the tract right of Cwm Cerwyn, the highest peak in the Presselly range, in- 1289 TENBY. 1250 correctly called Via Flandrensia. It’spro- for Fawr, styled lord of Blcan Cych, i.e- gress is marked by a line of tumuli over the the region round the source. At a nar- mountain ridge. It’s appearance is mostly now spot in the continuation of the vale, that of a hollow way or unfrequented lane, tradition says, that this powerful chieftain A short distance farther on, to the r. at the had a palace built across this barrier river, entrance of the little sequestered vale of upon arches resting upon two counties. Clydia, is Dot Uanerch, once a mansion of Of this superstructure there is no trace some respectability. Not a vestage of this except on one side, the oven, being a house is however left, a neat farm house slight excavation, and a small channel having been raised with it’s ruins. On cut in the same rock ; and upon the other the 1. pass Bwtchygroes (the pass of the side an old acqueduct. Hence mr. Fenton cross) meeting-house. Proceeding over retraced a part of his road, to visit Blaen- this open tract towards Clydia church, and bylen, a residence inhabited by the sur- before reaching it, turn down the slope of vivorsof a respectable family named Mor- a hill, to a place upon the s. side, called gan, as recently as about the year 1750. HJndref Cymry, the site of an old british Their possessions here were very exten- tovvn, to which a paved road leads from sivc, well-wooded, contiguous, and finely the foot of the hill upon the n. side. Cross circumstanced in every respect. The last a brook to examine A ant y Caitell, an en- of the name were brothers IVm. Morgan, campment of an oblong form, with round- and Maurice Morgan, esqrs. who passed ed angles, and a circular earthwork ad- their infancy here. The former was a man joining at the e. end. Hence by the church of strict honour and pleasing manners; his of Clydai, which names a prebendal stall mind was of so kindly a temperature that in the cathedral church of St. Davids, fill- every one loved him. He was a martyr to ed by the rev. doctor Symmons. After the gout during the greatest part of his life, crossing a romantic little valley, with a and lived an inmate with his friend the tributary to the Cych, running through it late John Symmons, esq. at Llanstinan. called the Cneifiwr, or the Shearer, pro- The latter, in addition to the character of ceed to Penallt Cych, through charming his brother, possessed a highly cultivated woods, to a picturesque mill and bridge, mind, and filled the office of under secre- upon the river below; which crossing, as- tary of state, during the power ofthemar- cend to Cilrhedyn Church, situated at the quis of Llansdown. He wrote an Essay extremity of it’s large parish, containing on the character of FalstafF, of which he little besides the church and glebe-house, refused to give a second edition. His ex- The church is said to have founded and ecutrix destroyed all his papers, some of endowedby Cadifor fawr, oneof the feudal which in the walks of politics, metaphy- nobles of Dyfed. Over the entrance is a sics, and criticism, would have planted a greek inscription. This district abounds permanent laurel upon his grave. “ Mau- with all the varieties of hill, dale, wood, rice Morgan,” says the rev. dr. Symmons, and water. The majestic Cych holds here “was my friend, yet he was the friend also in subjection a variety of streams, and the of his species. The embrace of his mind vale is infinitely varied, each step present- was ample, that of his benevolence un- ing anew and delightful picture. Mr. Fen- bounded. His imagination was creative ton left the vale to visit Cilrhedyn upon and playful. On every subject he thought the hill', conducted by a farmer over a nar- acutely and deeply and his ideas were row ridge of mountain, to avoid the cir- original and striking. His addresses were cuity of the main road, crossing a trihu- seductive, and however singular his opin- tary to the Cych, called the Pibydd. Re- ions, he never failed to gain the assent of gaining the valley at a place which the his hearer. Both his public and private river occupies the entire space from the life were impelled by the same principles, foot of one hill to another, leaving on one a love of liberty and virtue. Tho’ his in¬ side only a difficult path for foot travellers, tercourse with the world was long, he ha he rode along the rocky bed of the river acquired no suspicion, no norrowness, no till he came to the falling of another stream hardiness, no moroseness. He retained to from the 1. It was here that his guide the last the cheerfulness and sensibility of shewed him the object of his pursuit, childhood. The tale of misery he stopped namely, Tiorn Cadifor, or the oven of Cadi- not to investigate, and his fortune, much 1291 TENBY. 1292 reduced by disinterestedness, was instant¬ ly communicated to relieve. Nothing ever broke the even mildness of his temper, save the appearance of oppression or of cruelty. His failings were few and untinc¬ tured with malignity. Susceptible of the impressions of praise, he was not nice with respect to the hand that tendered it, and yet he has refused it when offered by the the public in it’s most honourable shape. Tho’ he had often contemplated the awful crisis of death with more terror than should have attached to his innocent lite, or the firmness of his mind, he met his consum¬ mation without alarm, and expired with serenity, at his house in Knightbridge, on the 28th of March 1802, aged 77. In him the family, descended from Ednyfed Vic- han, became extinct. In the vale below Blaenbylan, is Pwlldu, famed as a place where the ancient game of knappan was played. The knappan was a ball of hard wood, made slippery. The players were numerous, frequently amounting to 1000 or 1500 ; parish against parish, hundred aginst hundred, and sometimes county a- gainst county. The players were naked except a light pair of breeches. The sig¬ nal for commencing the contest was a great shout, and the ball after being hurled upright into the air, was caught by one of the parties, who hurled it towards the spot he played for. To such a length did the spirit of contest prevail that it inflamed every bad passion, engendered revenge, fomented private quarrels, and stimulated even to bloodshed and murder. This game has been long since disused. Pursuing this beautiful vale e. pass a picturesque fulling-mill, where a mountain stream, falls in a singular cataract through a fissure in the rock, afterwards under arich hanging wood of oaks, interspersed with birch. A turn to the 1. by a romantic winding as¬ cent through thriving young plantations, leads to Fynonau, a handsome modern building, placed exposedly upon the sum¬ mit of a hill, the residence of John Colby, esq. Here formerly lived the family of Maurice ; but about the year 1710, the es¬ tate connected with it, merged in that of Blaenbylan, by marriage. Leaving Fyn- nonau to the 1. of the road, and of an inter¬ vening dingle, the handsome mansion of Cylymendeg, suddenly appears, built by the occupier, Morgan Jones, esq. owner of the Skerry light-house. His establishment here is elegant, but he seldom mixes with the world, reserving his society to his in¬ timate friends and relations. The road to¬ wards the barrier river Teify, lies nearly parallel to the Cych, and would amply re¬ pay an admirer of nature’s beauties, if followed to it’s mouth, since it abounds with the most enchanting scenery. The road may be pursued over high ground, which affords a grand view of the country round; the whole chain of the Pembroke¬ shire hills, the greater part of Cardigan¬ shire, and the richly wooded vale through which the Teify rolls. From this height descend to Llechryd Bridge, formerly called the Stony Ford, from the circumstance of the river being seamed with ledges of rock. At this pass was fought the decisive battle between Rhys ap Tewder and Madog, Cadwgan, and Ryryd, the sons of Bleddyn ap Cynfyn, who, availing themselves of the unsettled state of Rhys ap Tewdur’s affairs, after his recovery of S. Wales, had entered into a powerful conspiracy to dis- posses him of it. The contest was obsti¬ nate and bloody. Rhys was however vic¬ torious. Madog and Ryryd were slain; Cadwgan escaped by flight. The scene of this battle is generally laid, with great improbability, in Radnorshire, upon the banks of the Wye, not far from Buillt. The house of Castell Maelgwn, is an elegant modern building, the residence of John Hammet esq. situated upon a beautiful projecting slope, lying between the nav¬ igable river Teify on one side, and a re¬ tired pastoral stream that murmurs through a most romantic valley, diversified with rock and wood, on the other. The inter¬ mediate space, as well as the whole of the valley, form tasteful pleasure grounds. The extensive iron and tin works, below the house, have been discontinued and the buildings removed. The name Castle Maelgwn is derived from a farm of that name. Anciently, Maelgwn, the son of Rhys ap Grufydd, having founded an an¬ cient british earth-work encampment here, strong by nature, and well calculated to check the growing power of the normans, andflemings, in those parts, strengthened this position with fortifications. Mr. Fen¬ ton had the pleasure of partaking in the hospitalities of Castle Maelgwn during the time in which he examined this curious district. We will accompany him, there¬ fore, to Cilcerran, and thence pursue 1293 TENBY. TINTERN ABBEY. 1291 the course he took. A barge fortunate¬ ly was ready, and the tide favourable. The river glides between winding hills, richly clad with wood, intercepted occa¬ sionally by masses of rock and quarries. After a succession of reaches and delight¬ ful scenery, suddenly the ruined Castle of Cilgerran appears in view, over a fine fore¬ ground of two projecting capes. The cas¬ tle occupies one of those projecting points which the hill on that side is broken into by deep gullies, and consists of several bastions of different forms, connected by curtains of various lengths, in different di¬ rections. Quitting the barge, ascend by a winding path up the hill on the w. side of the ruins, and arrive at the entrance fronting the village. ToManorbeer Castle, 5 miles, Barber; Skrine. — Llaugharne, 16 miles, Malkin. Mr. Donovan's Excursions end here. To Pembroke, 10 miles, Evans. — Caermartben, 28 miles, Warner. — Cilgerran, Fenton. — Narbertb, 10 miles. *-• /y a a a a y/ ey a/ a/ From Chepstow, by water, 9 miles, Wyndham. - Piercefield, 2j miles, Barber. — Goodrich Castle, 9 miles, Coxe. - Hereford, and the Wye, 40 miles, Warner. — Monmouth, 12miles. Skrine; Manby. TINTERN ABBEY, in the hundred of Ragland, Monmouthshire, is a highly beautiful and interesting ruin, the admira¬ tion of strangers. The Abbey was for monks of the Cistertian order, and founded in the year 1131, by Walter de Clare, who dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. This Walter was the grandson of William the son of Osbert, to whom William the con¬ queror had given the manors of Wollesten andTudenham, and all he could conquer from the welsh. Waller, dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother, Gil¬ bert Strongbo we, earl of Pembroke, whose grandson, Robert Stronghow, was the con¬ queror of Leinster, in Ireland. The male line failing, Maud, the eldest of their fe¬ male heirs, was married to Hugh Bigod, earl of Norfolk and Suffolk. William, lord marshal of England, and earl of Pem¬ broke, in the 7th year of the reign of king Henry 3, confirmed to the monks all the lands, possessions, liberties, and immu¬ nities, formerly granted by his predeces¬ sors. Roger Bigod, earl of Norfolk, in the year 1301, also confirmed to them divers lands at Portcassek, Pentick, Modisgat, &c. About the time of the dissolution the number of inmates were only thirteen, when the estates were, according to Dug- dale, estimated at 192/. lr. id. per annum. Speed says, the value was 252/. 11s. 6d. The scite was granted the 28th of Henry 8 . to Henry, earl of Worcester, and is now the property of the duke of Beaufort. In the ruins of Tintern Abbey, the original construction of the church is perfectly marked; and it is principally from this cir¬ cumstance that they are celebrated as a subject of curiosity and contemplation. From Tintern village, in walking to the Abbey, you pass the works of an iron- foundery, and atrain of miserable cottages, completely ingrafted on the ruins of the Abbey. This disagreeable and confined approach is not calculated to inspire any spectator with a very high estimation of what he is about to view; but on throw¬ ing open the w. door of the church, an ef¬ fect bursts on the spectator of a descrip¬ tion, so majestic and singular that words cannot do justice to it's merit, nor convey an adequate idea of the scene. It is neither a mere creation of art nor an exhibition of nature’s charms, but a grand spectacle, in which both seem to have blended their powers in producing an object beautiful and sublime. The walls are almost entire; the roof only is fallen in : most of the col¬ umns which divided the aisles are still standing; of those which have dropped down, the basis remain, every one exactly in it’s place; and in the middle of the nave, 4 lofty arches, which once supported the tower, rise above the rest, each reduc¬ ed now to a narrow rim of stone, but com¬ pletely preserving it’s form. The shapes even of the windows are little altered, but some of them are quite obscured, others partially shaded by tufts of ivy ; and those which are most clear, are edged with it’s slendertendrils and lighter foliage, wreath¬ ing about the sides and the divisions : it winds round the pillars ; it clings to the walls; and in one of the aisles, clusters at the top in hunches so thick and so large, as to darken the space below. The other aisles, and the great nave, are exposed to the sky : the floor is entirely overspread with turf. Monkish tombstones, and tho monuments of benefactors long since for¬ gotten, appear above the green-sward ; the basis of the pillars which have fallen 1295 TINTERN ABBEY. 1296 rise out of it; and maimed effigies and sculpture, worn with age and weather, are scattered about, or lie in heaps, piled up together. Other shattered pieces, tho’ disjointed and mouldering, still occupy their original places: nothing is perfect; but memorials of every part still subsist; all certain, but all in decay ; ,ind suggest¬ ing, at once, every idea which can occur in a seat of devotion, solitude, and desola¬ tion. Castles and ahbies have different situations, agreeably to their respective uses. The castle, meant for defence, stands boldly on the hill; the abhey, in¬ tended for meditation, is hid in the se¬ questered vile. Such is the situation of Tintern Abbey. It occupies a gentle emi¬ nence in the middle of a circular valley, beautifully screened on all sides by woody hills; through which the river Wye winds it’s course; and the hills closing on it’s en¬ trance, and on it’s exit, leave no room for inclement blasts to enter. A more pleas¬ ing retreat could not be found. The woods and glades intermixed ; the winding of the river; the variety of the ground ; the splen¬ did ruin, contrasted with the objects of na¬ ture, and the elegant line formed by the summits of the hills, which include the whole; make, altogether, a very enchant¬ ing piece of scenery. From the length of the nave, the height of the walls, the as¬ piring form of the pointed arches, and the size of the e. window, which closes the perspective, the first impressions are those of grandeur and sublimity : but as these emotions subside, and we descend from the contemplation of the whole to the ex¬ amination of the parts, we are no less struck with the regularity of the plan, the lightness of the architecture, and the deli¬ cacy of the ornaments; we feel that ele¬ gance is it’s characteristic no less than grandeur, and that the whole is a combina¬ tion of the beautiful and the sublime. This church is cruciform, and an excellent specimen of the english architecture in it’s greatest purity. The length of the nave and choir is 218 feet, their width 33. The length of the transept 150 feet. The arch¬ es and pillars of the choir and transept are complete; and the frame of the w. window is in perfect preservation : the design of the tracery is extremely elegant, and when decorated with painted glass, must have produced a fine effect. The general form of the e. window is entire, but the frame is much dilapidated : it oecupies the whole breadth of the choir, and is divided into 2 large and equal compartments, by a slen¬ der shaft not less than 50 feet in height, which has an appearance of singular light¬ ness, and, in particular points of view, seems suspended in the air. Instead of dilipidated fragments, overspread with weeds and choaked with brambles, the floor being covered with a smooth turf, keeps the original level of the church, ex¬ hibits the beauty of it’s proportion, heigh¬ tens the effect of the grey stone, gives a relief to the clustered pillars, and affords an easy access to every part. Although the exterior appearance of the ruins is not equal to the inside view, yet in some posi¬ tions, particularly to the e. they present themselves with considerable effect. A- bout §m. from the ferry, down the river, the ruins assume a new character. The grand e. window, wholly covered with shrubs, and half mau led with ivy, rises like the portal of a majestic edifice em¬ bowered with wood. Through this open¬ ing, and along the vista of the church, the clusters of ivy, which twine round the pil¬ lars, or hang suspended from the arches, resemble tufts of trees, while the thick mantle of foliage, seen through the tracery of the w. v indow, forms a continuation of the perspective, and appears like an interminable forest. “ How many hearts have here grown cold, that sleep these mouldering stones among! how many beads have here been told ! now many mattins here been sung! On this rude stone, by time long broke, I think 1 see some pilgrim kneel, I think I see the censor smoke, I think 1 hear the sulemn peal. But here no more soft mnsic floats, no holy anthems chaunted now; all hush’d, except the ring dove’s notes, low murm’ring from yon beachen bough.” Sir Richard Hoare asserts that “this ab. bey (as to the first coup d’ceil) exceeds every ruin he had seen either in England or Wales.” A few cottages compose a village which the poor inhabitants call Abbey, to distinguish it from other cottages, at a short distance, called Tintern. At this village is an inn, the landlord of which is in possession of the key of the ruin. Not far distant from this monastic edifice, is a manufactory for making wire, well worth visiting to those who have not seen that process, which begins with the thick iron 1297 TINTERN ABBEY. TOVVYN. 12PS bar and proceeds to the smallest wire.— Chiefly from Barber. To Piercefield the Wye becomes a tide river, and does not appear to advan¬ tage except at high water ; neither is the scenery peculiarly impressive, till the vicinity of Piercefield be approached. [See Wye. While at the village of Tintern, a cot¬ tager directed a gentleman tourist (who travelled in July 1806, and since publish¬ ed his account under the title of “ A Tour :in.Monmout.i.-hire, and part of Glamor¬ ganshire,”) to the Anchor, a public house ; close to the ferry, over the Wye. Ann , Bowen, the mistress of this homely man¬ sion is represented as having excellent bread, cheese, and cyder, but had not the . convenience of a spare bed. He lamented that this so happened, on account of the landloid of the Beaufort-arms having be¬ haved in a most unwarrantable and dis¬ gusting manner. He was accommodated, however, with great civility, at a fisher¬ man’s cottage over the way, and he thought himself happy, since his bed was clean and neat, in comparison of being subjected to sleep under the inhospitable roof of the landlord of the Beaufort-arms.” Mr. Warner has given a very favourable ac¬ count of his reception here. At Tintern, “ One grand view remained,” says this author, l * before we finished our expedi¬ tion; I mean that which is seen from a stupendous elevationcalled the Wind-cliff, rising a little to the n-e. of Piercefield, and overlooking the surrounding country. Quitting the road, and taking a path thro’ the meadows to the 1. we reached this eminence by a gradual ascent, and were astonished with a scene gland and un¬ bounded. Immediately under the cliff is the VVye, discharging it’s waters into the Severn. The vast limestone precipices which rise abruptly from it’s banks, finely diversified by a regular alternation of rock and wood, appear in front and to the 1. Piercefield, with all it’s magic scenery, lies under the eye to the r. beyond it the ruined castle of Chepstow. In the dis¬ tance, the straining vision roves over Glo- cestershire, Somersetshire, and Monmouth¬ shire, and following the course of the mag¬ nificent Severn is at length lost in the Bristol channel. Not being fortunate enough to gain admission into the grounds of Piercefield, this not being a day of pub¬ lic exhibition, we walked on to Ch ei> stow.” On the way to Monmouth, Llandogo is 4m. distant. On this road the Gentleman Tourist, before-mentioned, wandered a- long the unsheltered brow of Cabbaddic mountain, and while gazing at the village of Brockviater on the opposite bank of the Wye, he found himselfrather unexpected¬ ly surrounded on all sides by a thick wood. The path hence taking a winding course down an uneven bank, led him from the wood to the scattered cottages which form the hamlet of Llandogo. After taking some refreshment at a little public house, he directed his steps towards Monmouth, by quitting for a while the charming banks of the Wye. Leaving the beaten track, he ascended the craggy brow of a steep mountain ; whence he beheld an extensive and cultivated tract of country with the Wye meandering beneath, through rich meadows and cornfields. The steepness of the precipice amazed and terrified him. Advancing a few paces, he looked over a tremendous chasm overhung by trunks of trees, while water rushing over the rocks below added much to the horror of the place. From the top of this eminence the Severn was discernable, to the e. penetrat¬ ing the vales of S. Wales. After a short respite from toil at Trellick, he hastened to Monmouth. In passing this road the beauties peculiar to S. Wales, are seen in many and varied charms, the mountains round Abergavenny and Crickhowel, forming a beautiful termination to the numerous prospects. Along the Wye to Monmouth, 8 miles, Barber. To Chepstow, 6 miles, Skrine ; Coxe; Warner; Manby. — Moinscourt, [See New Passage, col. 976.] 2 miles ; ihence to Llanfair Castle, miles, Wyndham. — Monmouth, by way of Llandogo and rrelleck, 7 miles. — Monmouth, upon the banks of the Wye, l+m. From Aberystwith, 12 miles, Aikin. - Dolgelly, 18 miles, Warner. - Machynllaeth, 12 miles, Skrine. - Cader Idris, Pennant. TOWYN, or Tywyn, is a small town in the hundred of Ystumaner, Merioneth¬ shire, built of coarse schistose stone, com¬ manding a bold and unbounded view of the ocean, and backed by a range of high 1299 TOVVYN. 1300 mountains, situated upon the river Dys- ynne, which here falls into St. George’s channel. In 1801 the population of the parish amounted to 2092. A Fair is held annually on May 13. This place is frequented during the bathing season, by some genteel families. It is surrounded, especially towards the sea, by several populous hamlets, and comfortable look¬ ing farm houses. The soil is rocky, and exposed to the influence of the w. gales ; yet all-powerful industry has converted the marsh into meadows and pastures, and overspread the sterile rock and bleak shore with waving corn. Of public edifices, the Church is most remarkable, with several good monuments. Gwenddydd, one of the daughters of Brychan, and the wife of Cadell prince of Powys, about the middle of the 5th century, was buried here. In the cemetery are two rude pillars. One of them is called St. Cadfan’s Stone, shap¬ ed like a wedge, about 7 feet high, with a cross, and an inscription on each side, in old british characters. Cadfan had, at the n-e. end of the church yard, a free chapel, the walls of which were existing about 1620; at present the green site only re¬ mains. Some say that saint Cadfan lived about the year 250, and is supposed to have been buried in the church, that the stone before mentioned is a fragmentof his tomb, and is cautiously preserved. On the shore grows the Arunda arenarea. About lm. n-e. hence is Ynys Maen Gwyn, the seat of Edward Corbet, esq. Mr. Pennant continued his journey from a place called Allt-Lwyd, where he had a full view of the flat called Tozeyn Meirionydd, watered by the Dysynne. From this place he descended through fields, and, crossing the river, dined upon a great stone beneath the vast rock Craig y Dcr- yn, or the rock of birds, so called from numbers of cormorants, rock pigeons, and hawks, which breed there. At the foot is a prodigious stream of stones, which ex¬ tends some hundreds of yards from the bottom of the rock. Here the Towyn is contracted into a fertile vale, which stretch¬ es about 2m. further. Near it's end is a long and high rock, narrow upon the top. Here stood the castle of Teberri, which ex¬ tended lengthways over the whole surface of the summit. The remaining walls are well built, but the place is so overgrown with bushes as to render the survey very difficult. It lies in the parish of Llanfi- hangel y Pennant. Returned about ^m. and rode several miles along the pretty vale of Tal y llyn ; went by Llyn y mingil, a beautiful lake, about a mile long. It’s termination is very picturesque; for it con¬ tracts gradually into the form of a river, j and rushes through a good stone arch into a narrow pass, having on one side the church, on the other some cottages mixed with trees. A few miles beyond Tall y llyn church, the hills almost meet at their bottoms, and change their aspect. No ver¬ dure is now to be seen, but a general ap¬ pearance of rude and savage nature. One of the precipices is called Pen y Delyn, from some resemblance it has to a harp ; another is styled Liam y lladron, or the thieves’s leap. On the 1. is the rugged height of Cader Idris. Pass near a small lake, called Llyn y tri grasenyn, or pool of : the 3 grains from 3 vast rocks, which some time had fallen from the neighbouring mountain into the water. These, says the peasants, were the 3 grains which the gi¬ ant feeling in his shoe, so as to hurt his foot, he threw them out here. Pass over Bwlch Cock, and, after descending a bad road reach Dolcelly ; whence visit Nan- nenu, the seat of the ancient family of the Nanneys, now of the Vaughans. The way to it is a continual ascent of 2m. On the road side is a venerable oak, pierced by age into the form of a gothic arch ; it’s girth 27£ feet. It’s name is Derwen Ceu- bren yr Ellyll, the hollow oak, the haunt of demons. Above Nanneau is a high rock, called Moelyr thrwm, evidently once a british post. Return through Dolgelly, and about lm. beyond, is a beautiful view of 3 vales, finely embellished with gentle¬ men’s seats and watered by the junction of the Onion and the Mowdach. Instead of the direct track to Barmouth, visit the cascades of Glyn-maw. Cross the bridge • of Llan elltyd. Below is a turbcry ; on the ■ 1. is the church of Llan elltyd; on the r. in a rich flat, stand the remains of the ab¬ bey of Cymmer. Part of the churc h is still to be seen; the great hall and part of the abbot’s lodgings now form a farm-house. Contiiuie upon a bank high above the Mowdach. About 5 or 6m. from Dolgel¬ ly, at Doly Melynllyn, mr. Pennant turned out of the road to meet the furious course of the Gamlan, which falls, with short in¬ terruptions, from rock to rock, for a very 1301 TOWYN. 1302 ronsidcrable space, amid the woods and rushes, till it reaches a lofty precipice, whence it precipitates into a black pool, ;haded by trees (which give the name of I? Rhaiadyr-ddu, or the black cataract). Cross Pont ar Gamlan, below which the river alls into the Mowdach. Not far thence, :he junction of the Mowdach and Eden in forms another grand scene. Begin a con¬ siderable ascent, and find upon the sum¬ mit some groves of handsome oaks ; in front, a naked country. Descend through steep fields, to another set of wooded din¬ gles, which wind along the bottoms, and join the former. In various parts Cader Idris appears in full majesty. Soon after i arriving in the woods another cascade , called Pistill y Cain, astonishes with it’s jl. grandeur, forming a vast fall, bounded on | one side by broken ledges of rocks, on the other by a lofty precipice. At the bottom is an alpine bridge, and not far distant is another cascade. Emerging from these romantic depths, a long extent of woodless tract is reached, in the vast parish of Trams- fynnydd, walled in on all sides by lofty rug¬ ged mountains, of various forms. This place is greatly isolated from civil society, yet retirement may be obtained here with¬ out much enquiry. In a farm house, not far from this road to Rhiw goch , visit Bedd Purus, the grave of Porus, with a flat stone over it, containing a broken latin inscrip¬ tion. Not far from it, in another field, is a great upright stone, called Llecli Idris. After a short ride, see on a common the noted Sarn, or Llwybr Helen, the cause¬ way or path of Helen ; a road supposed to have been made through part of N. Wales, by Helina, daughter of Eudda, or Octavius, and wife to the emperor Maximus. This road is now entirely covered with turf; but, it’s elevation causes it to be visible in many parts. Beneath are the stones which form it, and extend in all it’s course to the breadth of 8 yards. There are tu¬ muli near it in many places. Castell Prysor is a singular fort, placed between the hills. The remains are rather slight; the facings are very regular, but the work is destitute of mortar. Hence, tqwards Festiniog, by the road side, is Llyn Rath- llyn, a small lake noted for a singular va¬ riety of perch. Not far hence, within the enclosed country, is a fine roman camp called Tommen y Mur, or the mount with¬ in the wall. Sarn Helen runs into it at one end, and is continued to Rhyd yr Ha- len, in Festiniog parish, and by the sideof Fannod Fawr, and over a farm called Croe- sor, at the upper end of Cwm Croesor.and through Cae Ddafydd, in Nanmor. The branches are numerous. Close by the road side, on the common, at a short dis¬ tance from the camp, is an oval inclosure, about 36 yards long, and 27 wide in the middle, surrounded by a high mound of earth, but without a foss. Returning out of the parish of Trawsfynnydd, along the before-mentioned road, to Llan-clltyd, keep on the side of the hill, above the val¬ ley which leads to Barmouth. The ride is very delightful; the vale being watered by the Mawddach (known here only by the name of Afon or the river), bounded by hills and chequered with woods. To Dolgelly pass Ynys y maen gwyn, lm. leave on the 1. a road to Pont Fathew, keep to the r. a short distance, then to the 1. and cioss the Matthew river, l£m , Do- laugwyn, on the 1 . ^m. continue with the Matthew on the r. l^m. cross a brook and soon after the river again, £m. near which place another feeder falls into the Mat¬ thew. Llyndu on the 1. at Erwbenlas,^ m. cross the Matthew twice in proceeding to Bielchygyfyng, 1 )m. Abergynolwyn, ~m. Cross a strong feeder to the Disynwy. lm. Tyn y Cornel, on the r. Cae Edris on the 1. Efel Cae Edris, £m. where the river Dis¬ ynwy is crossed. To Talyllyn, l£m. pas¬ sing Maes y Pandy. The vale of Talyllyn, tho’ confined, is not destitute of beauty. Itconsists of rich meadows, through which flow's a fine rivulet, issuing from the lake, and proceeding to the ocean. The valley is flanked by lofty mountains, the sides of which are adorned with verdant and syl¬ van clothing. The termination is pleas¬ ing. The lake here nearly fills the valley, so as to leave only a road on one side. It then contracts gradually into a river, rush¬ ing under a bridge of one arch, through a narrow defile, on one side of which stands the church, and upon the other cottages, intermingled with trees. See Cader Idris on the 1. To Lheyn, 1 jm. Minfordd on the 1. and Cilydydd, on the r. ^m. Llyntri- grasenyn, 2m. Pass at l^m. Bwlch Cock, on the 1., on the r. Bylchccochyn and Caer Sarn, l£m. Dolcelly, l£m. The lower road to Doloelly, or that which passes the s. side of Cader Idris is preferable to the upper one, which is 1303 TOWYN. TREGARON. 1301 shorter, but not nearly so interesting. A- bout 3m. from Towyn, (leaving Ynysy- maengwyn, the residence of Edward Cor¬ bet, esq.; mid-way a little on the 1.) is crossed the little river Mathew,* and pro¬ ceeding up the narrow valley through which it flows, the mountain on the 1. ap¬ pears covered with underwood nearly to it’s summit. Passing the source of the riv¬ er Mathew, at the little village of Aber- gynolwyn the tourist finds himself on the banks of the river Disynwy, with the steep ascent of Cader Idris full in view, rising out of the woods which root themselves on it’s base. The mountains on both sides now soar to a vast height, become more craggy, and approach so near to each other as almost to shut up the vale. Next ap¬ pears Talyllyn, apieceof water above lm. in length, occupying the bottom of the valley, lm. beyond is Minfordcl, a small public house kept by Edward Jones, the guide to Cader Idris. Coasting this like by a rough mountain road, a difficult as¬ cent conducts the traveller out of the glen, and proceeding 3m. over enclosed fields and frequent cottages, Dolgelly is reached. The road to Aberystwith lies close to the sea-side, over hard sand, for 4m. to the ferry of Aberdovy, a small sea-port, ro¬ mantically situated under rocks, employ¬ ing about 30 ships. After crossing the Dyfi, and continuing to tread the shore, gratified with a view of the troubled ocean, breaking with dreadful fury over the cliffs which form the s. shore of Caernarvon bay, you reach the village of Perth., where this stupendous scenery is left, the road wind¬ ing up an ascent with an elevation on each side. Little beauty of country now occurs, being naked and unpopulous. To Dolgelly, 18 miles, Aikin. — Alierystwith, 12 miles, Warner. Back to Machynlleath, 12miles, Skrine. — Barmouth, after an Excursion round Cader- Idris, Pennant. From Hafod, 18 miles, Barber; Evans. - Aberystwith, 18 miles, Malkin. -Llanbedr, 11 miles, Wyndham. -Strata Florida, 6£ miles, Skrine. TREGARON, or Tref Garon, the town of Caron, in the hundred of Pen Arth, Cardiganshire, is a poor straggling ill-built town, situated in an abrupt hollow, wa¬ tered by the river Berwyn, a contributary stream to the Teify, on the e. side of Car¬ diganshire; This place being plentifully interspersed with trees, forms a pleasing relief to the surrounding dreariness. There is a market here every Tuesday, and fairs on the 16th, 16th, and 17th days of March annually. About the middle of the 15th century one Mathew Evans, kept here a public house; he was father of 2 sons and a daughter called “Plant Matt,” or Mat¬ thew’s children who lived in a cave near Pont y Monach. Upon a hill s-e. of the town, are shewn the ruins of Fountain- gate, called Plas Twm Sim Catty, where the natural son of sir John Wynne, of Gwydyr, named Twm o’Sim a Catty, i. e. Tom the son of John and Catherine, lived. His real name was Thomas Jones. He was esteemed an eminent antiquary and poet. He flourished from a.d 1590 to 1630. During one part of his life he lived by his wits, swindling and stealing, but he afterwards married and reformed. The stories relating to his nefarious practices are numerous. We have only room for one. Tom hearing much of the exploits of a highwayman in the country, he made a determination to rob him. For this pur¬ pose he mounted a poor horse, and loaded it with a leathern bag full of shells, and set out to meet him. The highwayman ordered him to stop, and deliver his money. Tom seemed very reluctant, the robber then threatened to shoot him. Tom seized immediately the leathern bag and threw it over the hedge. The robber cursing him insisted that he held his horse ; but while he was going for the bag, Tom mounted the horse and galloped off. At Nant F.os, is an emblazoned pedigree of the Cor¬ bet family, written and painted by him. Tregaron was once a corporate town, but the burgesses lost their charter by improper conduct at an election in 1742. At a place called Castell Flemys, in this parish, is a very large entrenchment in the form of a semicircle, well defended on 3 sides by a morass. Besides this is another called Castell Sunnyhill, from it’s proximity to that farm. The parsonage-house stands upon an eminence e. of the town, embo¬ somed in fir-trees. The Church stands upon an elevated rocky spot near the cen¬ tre of the town, close to the river Brennig, over which is a wooden bridge. It is a handsome structure, consisting of a nave and chancel. There was in the church¬ yard, in 1805, 4 ancient monumental 305 TREGARON. 1306 ones, mr. Meyrick has given figures of lem in his History of Cardiganshire, p. 52. Upon a hill in this parish called Pen- 'littiflur, are 3 heaps of stones, called car- eddau, and a bank of raised earth called 'wysuch bannog, or the furrow of Bannoy’s xen, running in a straight line for several files, through the parish of Gwnnws, or .Ijnuiitnuis, to the sea. A little be- )w the town, is a spring, where on Easter unday in the morning the young men and /omen repair, to treat each other with a mall loaf, called Bura Can, and drink of tie water. The mountains in th s part f the country, are wild and varied, yet bound in an abundance of grass which ots upon the ground. Poa fluitans, Poa rivialis, P. prslonga, Triticum repens, kgrostis palutris, A. minima, Aira aqua- ica, and Alopecurus pratensis, flourish ixceedingly. To Llandovery, passing the forest of Roscob, and descending into the vale of the 'rfon, near the banks of the river are the nineral springs called Llanverted Wells, •vhich contain a large quantity of hepar ;ulphuris, with a small quantity of neutral >alts in solution. They are much frequent¬ ed by the south wallian gentry during the summer months, and are used in cases where the waters of Harrowgate are ap¬ plied. The small inn of Tafern y Prydd affords refreshments; the mountain is as¬ cended to the s. The mansion of Ginn Bran, situated in a well wooded park, is passed by an easy descent. The country to Llanbedr is dreary but improves much in pursuing it. It may be travelled on either side of the river Teifi ; but a stranger will prefer the e. side, over Pont Llanico to Llan Ddewi Brefi distant 3m. situated near the s. banks of the river Teifi, and opposite Llanio isau, where there are some remains of the roman city of ljsvenlium. The church of Llan-Ddewi Brefi is situated upon a gentle eminence, backed by high mountains, and surround¬ ed by miserable hovels. Four lofty gothic arches, supporting a square massive tur¬ ret, bespeak it’s ancient grandeur. In 522, at a holy synod, held here, St. David opposed the opinions of the Pelagians. St. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerleon, having assisted at the synod, resigned his see to St. David, and betook himself to Bardsey island, to apply the remainder of his life to devotion. A prodigious petiified horn, which is shewn at the church, is said to have remained there from that time ; and in the year 1187, bishop Beck founded a college on the spot. Several roman in- scriptions.appear upon stones, in and about the church; but at a place some distance s. of it, called CaerCeslish (the field of the cas¬ tle), a great number have at various times been discovered, as also coins and roman bricks. Dr. Gibson considers this to be the Lovantinum of Ptolemy, in which o- pinion he is followed by Horsley. Yet this spot, the site of a roman town, and occupied by it’s legions, is new traced with difficulty among barren fields remote from the habitation of man. There is perhaps no situation, near which you pass between Tregaron and Llanbedr, more agreeably circumstanced than Milfield, on the banks of a little tri¬ butary brook called Mathern. In the par¬ ish of Kellan, bp. Gibson notices a re¬ markable pillar, about 16 feet high, & broad, and 2 thick, erected upon the top of a mountain. A wild tract led mr. Skrine back to the banks of the Ystwith, just below lordLis- burne’s park, at Crosswood, whence he passed mr. Powell’s at Nanteos, and crossed the Rhydol, to the ancient town of Llan- BADERN FaWR. On the road from Tregaron n. about 1m. from the town, are two paved places in form of graves, supposed to be the sepul¬ chres of two persons subjected to inter¬ ment on a cross road. A little further is a beautiful lake called Llyn y Macs (lake of the field) where tradition says that Tre¬ garon once stood. Midway between the town and this lake is a marshy bog of ex¬ cellent peat reaching to the river. On the other side is a coppice of various trees where the Rubus idaeus, grows in great abundance. Not far off in a meadow be¬ low, Ffynnon Eland, formerly of great note for curing sore breasts. At the n-e. extremity of these hills is an ascendency almost circular, and very steep on the w. side, where formerly grew a fine grove ol timber wood. The hill is called Benau Bron ij Mwyn, from the mines formerly on the place. At the n. end of the parish of Caron is the inconsiderable village of lthydfcndigaid, (the blessed ford), from the river Teifi being fordable there, over which is a very old bridge of stone. A mile e. of this village lies Strata Florida, 7031 TREM called frequently Monachlog. ToLlanbedr, 12miles, Barber; Malkin, — Llandovery, 27 miles, Evans. — Strata Florida, 5 miles, Wyndham. — Llanbadern Fa.vr, 12 miles, Skrine. TREMADOC stands 3 feet below low water mark, upon a portion of land re¬ claimed from the w. side of Traeth-mawr, in the promontory of Llyn in Caernarvon¬ shire, by the spirited exertions of William Alexander Madocks, esq. of Tany yr alt. The shape of Tremadoc is an oblong square, upon the e. side of which is a handsome Market-house, and over it are good Assembly-rooms. On the other sides of the area are ranged the recently well- built houses, A small Church in the pointed style, is situated upon one side of an intended new street; and upon the other is a neat place of worship for protes- tant dissenters. Mr. Madocks, by whom this tract of country was regenerated, and this new town formed, has established a Bank for commercial purposes; nor has he been inattentive to the traveller, for the Tremadoc Arms is a respectable and com¬ fortable Inn. At a short distance from the town stands Tany yr alt. This man¬ sion exhibits considerable architectural taste; is situated upon a lofty rock, amid flourishing plantations, which, with a sin¬ gularly neat lodge, form a pleasing and picturesque appearance. In the year 1625, sir John Wynne of Gwydir, conceived that to gain both the traeths from the sea was practicable, by an embankment. He so¬ licited the assistance of his illustrious countryman sir Hugh Myddleton, but the latter declined this business being engag¬ ed in his mines, the new river at London, and other undertakings. This great design has lately been undertaken by IV. A. Ma¬ docks , esq. He first formed a plan for re¬ gaining a portion of land upon the w. side of Traeth mawr, which he completed a- bout the year 1800. This reclaimed land now produces most luxuriant crops of wheat, barley, clover, &c. and compris¬ ing nearly 1900 acres of rich land, and the appropriate name of Glandwr is given to it. Successful in this enterprise, mr. Madocks engaged in the more arduous task of re¬ covering the greater parts of the drowned lands within the Traeth mawr, by extend¬ ing an embankment across from side to ADOG. 1305 side. In 1807, he obtained a grant from the crown, vesting in him and his heirs the whole of these sands from Font Aber- glasllyn to the point of Gest. This bold design was shortly commenced and as ra¬ pidly executed. The extent of the line from n. to s. is sbout a mile; the breadth of the embankment at the base 100 feet, and at top 30. Upon the e. side a turn¬ pike road is intended to be made, for the purpose of forming a communication be¬ tween the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth. In September 1810 this grand design had been carried on from each ex¬ tremity to within 100 yards in the centre. The filling up of this small chasm was considered the trying point, for the tide ran through it with amazing rapidity and tremendous force. The narrowing and closing point should have been that where the tide acts with the least effect. If the sea after it’s entire completion, for¬ tunately throw up the sand, so as to form an inclined plane against the embank¬ ment, the work may stand, but should it unluckily, on the contrary, act with force and wash the embankment, the whole will be demolished. It is ardently desir¬ able that the latter effect may never take place, but that the patriotic spirit already evinced by mr. Madocks, may be reward¬ ed by the 5000 acres thus reclaimed. The spirit of improvement has been exceedingly active in this district, particularly with re¬ spect to embankments and new roads. [See further col. 1077.] To Beddcelart the way lies for some distance under perpendicular cliffs of great height, full of chasms and fissures. Some parts of these masses after heavy rains and long continued frosts loosen and fall with tremendous crashes. This road, extend¬ ed upon the n. side of the Traeth mawr af¬ fords a most delightful ride, especially when the tide is at flood, by the effect of a very large surface of water, and the op¬ posite scenery of the Merionethshire coast, taking Pont Aberglasllyn by the way. To Caernarvon, 20 miles. — Capet Curig, 19 miles. — Harlech, 10 miles. — Beddgellart, 7 miles. 1309 USK. 1310 FromCaerleon,7 miles, Coxt; Barber; Manby. - Llanfair, 10j miles, Warner. - Pont y Pool, 6 miles, Wyndham. - Newport, Mon. over Pencamawr, Skiine. USK, called by the britons, Brunebad- gie for Burenbegie, or Brynbida; by Gi- raldus, Castrum Isca, is situated upon a lingula or tongue of land, formed by the confluence of the Ulwy with the Usk, in the centre of Monmouthshire, supposed by many to have been the Burrium of the romans. It is however, now a small vil¬ lage, much delapidated and untenanted ; yet it’s situation, in the eye of a painter, is uncommonly beautiful, varied and inter¬ esting. Lord Lyttelton has supposed that 30001. would make this the most august place in the kingdom ; but to improve it effectually requires more than ordinary genius. The four lines of houses in this place form nearly an exact square, the area of which is composed of gardens and orch¬ ards. The Three Salmons, the George, and the King’s-hcad Inns, afford good ac¬ commodations. A stone bridge of 5 arches is built across the Usk, from which the mountains in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny are seen with considerable effect: the even ridge of the Blorenge and conical shape of the Sugar-loaf, are finely contrasted with the broken summit of the Skyrrid, appearing through an opening in the circumjacent hills. Usk is undoubt¬ edly a place of great antiquity, and it’s an¬ cient boundaries were of considerable ex¬ tent, and may yet be traetd in an imper¬ fect rampart in the adjoining fields. In digging wells and making foundations for buildings, three ranges of pavement have been discovered. In a field called Cae- puta, to the s. of the town, between the church and the turnpike-road, about the year 1796, a paved road was discovered under ground ; it was 9 feet broad, formed of hewn stones placed edgeways, suppos¬ ed to have been a street of the town. Many ancient houses are in ruins, and the district appears delapidated. The w. part is more modern, and in better repair, and the place of which the new market-house oc¬ cupies the centre, has a neat appearance. It’s population in 1801 was 734 inhabi¬ tants, 152 houses. It has no commerce, and only one manufactory of japan ware, which was established by mr. Edward All. good, of Pont y Pool, and is now carried on by his nephew mr. Hughes. Most of the inhabitants are employed in farming or fishing. The Usk abounds with fish, particularly salmon. The salmon of the Severn, the Wye, the Towey, and theTei- fi, have been praised in their turns, but epicures have decided the boon of excel¬ lence on those caught in the Usk. Several weirs have been established on the river in this vicinity. There is one at Trostrey which mr. Coxe has described as follows. “ An embankment of stakes and stones is thrown diagonally across the river, be¬ tween 2 and 300 yards in length; in the middle of the weir is a vacancy, provided with an iron grate, through which a con¬ siderable body of the river rushes with great impetuosity. At the lower part of the wier, on one side of this stream, is a large wooden box, perforated with holes to admit the water and air, with an aper¬ ture, to which is affixed a long round wick¬ er basket, resembling a tunnel. This aper¬ ture is closed with a small iron grate, which opens within the box, like a trap¬ door, and falls to it’s original position by it’s own weight. A square wooden frame similar to those used at mills for the pur¬ pose of catching eels, extends nearly across the whole of the stream below the large iron grate, leaving only sufficient room for the salmon. The fish, in his migration is obliged to ascend this narrow opening ; and having passed the wooden frame is stopped by the grate. Instead of retreat¬ ing down the narrow pass by which he as¬ cended, he turns sideways, is hurried by the rapidity of the stream along a narrow current, leading through the tunnel, forces open the trap-door, which immediately falls down behind him, and is thus secured in the box.”—Hist. Tour, p. 160. Usk is a borough town and is represented in conjunction with Newportand Monmouth, by one member of parliament. An agree¬ able walk leads under the first arch of the bridge to the Abergavenny road through a meadow planted with large walnut trees, by the side of the murmuring Usk, under the ruins of the castle and it’s high pon¬ derous ivy-mantled tower, which are here seen to the best advantage. The ruins of the Custle stand upon an abrupt eminence, to the e. of the river, and follow the cir¬ cular bend of the hill; they consist of the shell which encloses an area or court and some outworks to the w. formed by two straight walls converging one to the other. USK. i 3 ,2 and strengthened at their union by a round tower. At the extremity of the s. wall is a grand pointed gateway, with a grove for a portcullis, which was the principal en¬ trance; the upper part has been converted into a farm-house, with considerable addi¬ tions. Like all castles built at early pe¬ riods, it consists of straight walls, strength¬ ened with round and square towers, hav¬ ing on the outside no aperture, but oeil- lets, except some which have been formed since it’s erection. Several of the apart¬ ments have chimnies, and a baronial hall, measuring 48 feet by 24. The founders’ name has not been ascertained. In 1262 it belonged to Richard de Clare. It passed through different branches to Edward 4, Richard 3, Her.ry 7, and William first earl of Pembroke. The castle was purchased Irom Herbert, viscount Windsor, with other property at auction, by Valentine Morris, of Piercefield, who, unable to pay the de¬ posit, sold it to lord Clive, of whom it was bought by the present duke of Beaufort. [See further Coxe’s Monmouthshire, p. 127 to 131.] No castle in Monmouthshire has been subject to more frequent assaults than that of Usk, from the merciless Owen Glendwr, who after committing the most outragious depredations, was defeated at the battle of Usk, by the royal troops, and driven into the mountains. A singular bird’s-eye view of Usk is seen from the terrace, on the outside of the castle, un¬ der the ivy-mantled tower, which over¬ hangs the brow of the precipice. The town occupies a level, and not a single building seems to stand upon the smallest rise; the houses are intermixed with fields. The white church of Llanbatldoc, which stands upon the opposite bank, seems in¬ cluded within the precincts of the town, and the river Usk enhances the beauty of the circumjacent scenery. The Church is ancient, apparently of the Anglo-nor- man aera. It has been much larger. The square embattled tower which now stands at the e. end occupied the centre, and com¬ municated with a transept and choir. Four pointed arches separate the nave from a n. aisle; the windows are ornamented gothic or rather norman, and the porches are in the same style, but not elegant. In the church is a long and narrow brass plate, formerly chained to the wall, now nailed upon the top of the partition between two pews near the chancel. Some have sup¬ posed it a mixture of latin and english. Mr. Owen says that the language is the dialect of Gwent, used in the middle ages. A copy appears of it in Gough’s Camden, vol. iv, p. 115. From Harris it stands thus, “ Note clode yrethrode yar lleyn aduocade llawa hade llandeyn Abaruour bede breynt a pite ty n evaro ty hauabe, Setiff sun o eir sinn a scadam yske eval huske Deke kummode doctor Kymmen llena loc i Hawn oleue. THUS TRANSLATED, Mark this object of fame, to the disgrace of the blade; were he not covered, London would be in difficulty. Then let us consecrate the grave of Briant son of Llydd, who in judgment was an elder; Solomon, profound of word was he; and the sod of Isca his bed of sleep! Ardently he would reconcile the eloquent, and tire wise; the clergy and the laity would be fully illumined. 1 * The church belongs to the Priory, of which the remains still exist on the s e. side of the tower. A circular arched portal leads from the church yard through the court, to the ancient edifice the property of mrs. Jeffery, which is now a farm-house. It was a priory of 5 benedictine nuns found¬ ed by the earls of Clare, about 1236. An apartment upon the first floor is ornament¬ ed with 30 devices, and emblazoned coats of arms. Part of the common Prison, which is situated near the bridge, was formerly an ancient roman catholic chapel; the pointed or norman door-way, which formed the s. entrance yet remains. The draughtsman will find some good subjects for his pencil in the priory gateway, bridge, and castle. The surrounding scen¬ ery is also beautiful. The river which names this place is a clear stream richly skirted with wood, and the mountains which stretch towards Abergavenny and Pont y Pool, form a magnificent back ground. The Usk has it’s source in the black mountains of Brecknockshire, and entering Monmouthshire at Llangrunny, passes in a s. direction, including a most delicious valley, rivalling the most cele¬ brated of the Swiss or Italian scenery. The river is navigable for barges up to Tredon- noc bridge. In the vicinity of Usk are 3 ancient encampments. Craeg y Gaercyd, supposed to have been a roman camp, is 2m. n-w. from Usk, to the e. of Pont y Pool road, upon the brow of a precipice overhanging the r. bank of the Usk; the site is overgrown with thickets and bram- 1314 1313 U*K. 4es, and the entrenchments are in many daces 30 feet deep. Sevetal tumuli are vithin the area, from 15 to ‘20 feet in leight. Mt. Coxe in visiting this encamp- nent passed the small torrent called Ber- Idin, from which some writers have de- ived the name of Ilurrium, as being plac¬ id at it’s confluence with the Usk. Two >ther camps are upon the opposite side of he river, to the E.of the highroad leading rom Usk to Abergavenny. CampuiooJ, !m. from the town, above the wild and ■cquestered common of Gwhelwg, is of an >val shape, enclosed by a single foss and 'allum, 700 yards in circumference, whol- y overgrown with wood. The encamp- nent of Coed y Bunedd is formed upon the .ummit of a commanding eminence, at he extremity of Clytha-hills, about 4m. rom Usk, to the w. of the turnpike-road ending to Abergavenny. It is 480 yards n circumference. The w. and n. sides are precipitous, bounded by one entrench¬ ment ; the other sides are fortified with triple ditches and ramparts. The entrance is covered by a tumulus. Some founda¬ tions of lowers at each end yet remain. It was originally strengthened with walls. Just beyond it’s n. extremity, nearly upon the verge of the eminence, is a tuft of trees, forming a conspicuous object from the subjacent country. The w. side overhangs the Usk, and commands a beautiful view of the n. parts of the county. Coxe.p. 134. A chain of these fortified posts seems to have stretched from Cut’s-ash over the ridge of land that terminates in the Penca- mawr, supposed to have been the site of a British,but more probably a roman road, which branched off from the line of the Julia Strata to Blestium. The commence¬ ment of the line is at Cued yCaerau, in the hundred of Caldecot, to the w. of Caer- leon, where are several encampments ; and beyond the Pencamawr, in the same direction at Wolves Newton are two. Cwrt y gaer is a small circular encampment, which appears to have had it’s ramparts formed of stone, and the remains of walls indicate that it was defended by bastion towers. It is about 190 feet in diameter and surrounded by a double foss and val¬ lum. Gner-fawr, lying between Golden- hill and Delauden, is the largest encamp¬ ment in the county. It was the site of a british town. The depth of the fossa and height of the valla are very considerable. 43 It probably belonged to the saxons.— Beauties of Eng. Monmouthshire, 148. In the parish church of Tredonock, which lies upon the w. bank of the Usk, midway to Caerleon, is a roman inscription dedi¬ cated to the memory of a soldier of the second Augustan legion. This sepulchral stone is 3 feet square, inscribed d. m. jul. julianus mil. lec. ii. Aug. stip. xiii, ar¬ mor. xi HIC SITUS EST CVR A ACENTE AM AN- pa conjuce. It is explained as follow. “ Diis manibus, Julius Julianus, miles le- gionis secundae Augusts stipendiorum oc- todecim armonum quadraginta hie situs est cura agente amanda conjuge.” A few fields e. from Usk, on the old Monmouth lower road, is a curious antique Bath, to which have been attributed won¬ derful qualities. To Caerleon cross the river Usk to IJanbadoc, 3f. (On the r Llangibby Castle, W. A. Williams, esq.) Llangibby, l£m. (On the r. Carigweth-house, John Morgan, esq.) Uanhenock, 3m. (Cross the Torfaen river, which falls into the Usk at Caerleon, 2m. 7f. On the road to Abercavenny, a slight deviation may be made to the 1. to Trostrey- House, 4m. the ancient seat of the family of Hughes, now a farm-house. The church of Trostrey stands upon a gentle rise in the midst of a wood, remote from any habita¬ tion, and seems rather the solitary chapel of a hermit than the church of a cultivated district, in a situation extremely wild and romantic. The church of Cemmys Com¬ mander, 3m. is supposed to derive the name from Edward Kemmys, commander of the army under Dru de Baladun at the conquest of Upper Gwent, and is con¬ structed in the norman or pointed style. It is small, it’s lorm simple, with a low bellfry. In the yard is a singular pheno¬ menon ; within a hollow yew tree 15 feet in girth, is enclosed an oak, not less than 7 feet in circumference. Keeping upon the banks of the Usk, distant 3m. are the Tros- trey Works. Iron bar is manufactured here and conveyed down the Usk to Newport. A little beyond the forge the river ceases to be navigable. On the direct Turn- t ike-road, occurs Bellas Newydd. The Church still retains it’s ancient rood-loft entire, and a large wooden cross is affixed at the e. extremity. Beyond this place the roads form a gentle rise, from which may be caught a view of the romantic cluster 1316 1315 USK. WELSH POOL. of mountains, in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny. Clytha Castle, 2m. (On the r.Llansaintfraed, on the 1. is Llanfihangel.) Llangaltoc,3m. (Llangattoc-housc, on the r .) Coldhrook, l^m., Abergavenny, l^m. The valley of Usk is equal to any other in Wales, both as to extent and beauty, and is rpuch diversified between Abcrga- yjenny and Brecon. To Raglan, 5 miles,Coxe; Barber ; Skrine. — Abergavenny, II miles, Warner. Back to Newport,9 miles, Wyndham. To Caerleon, 7,y miles, Manby. -- Chepstow, 11 miles. — New Passage, 12^ miles. — Pencoed Castle, 2 miles. VALE CRUCIS ABBEY, see Crucis Abbey. From Montgomery,81 miles, Pennant; Bingley. -Shrewsbury, 18j miles, Evans. — Llanymynach, by canal, 12 miles. Warner. - Llanvyllin, 12 miles, Wyndham; Skrine. - Oswestry, 15 miles. WELSH POOL, is a large and populous town in Montgomeryshire, so called to distinguish it from a town of the name of Pool in Dorsetshire, anciently Trallwng, i. c. the town beside the lake. This piece of vvater was formerly upon the waste, hut is now within the enclosure of Powys- park, called Llyndy pool. It’s average depth is 300 feet. This contemptible black pool iscommonly believed to he unfathom¬ able, and respecting which there is a pro¬ phecy, that it shall sometime overflow and deluge the town. This prophecy is believed in Wales. The town consists of one long, wide, and spacious street, cros¬ sed by another at right angles, besides several collateral ones of lesser breadth. The houses are chiefly well built with brick, and there is a prevailing uniformity and cleanliness which pleases. The man¬ ners of the inhabitants arc completely eng- lish, and the welsh language is spoken by scarcely any. The town has separate ju¬ risdiction, situate partly in the cwmwd of Corddwr, and partly in the cwmwd of Ys- trad Marchell, cantrefof Ystlye, (now the hundreds of Pool and Caurs ) The resi¬ dent population of the parish in the year 1801, was 2295. The Market for pro¬ vision is on Monday; and'every alter¬ nate Monday for Welsh flannels, of which several thousand pounds worth are an. nually sold, from 2r. fid. to 4r. per yard. The Fairs are held on the 2d Monday in March, Palm Monday, June 5, Monday af¬ ter the 10th of July, Sep. 12, and Nov. 16, This place is governed by 2 bailiffs. Who act as magistrates, and are chosen annual¬ ly ; a recorder, town-clerk, and burgesses, The Church dedicated to St. Mary, is built in the pointed style, but not ancient. It is strangely placed at the bottom of a hill, the cemetery nearly equalling the height of the building. It is a discharged vicar¬ age, with the perpetual curacy of Butting- ton attached, the bishop of St. Asaph, pat¬ ron. Among it’s sacramental ornaments there is a chalice of pure gold, which holds a quart, value 170/. it is thus inscribed. Thomas Davies Anglorum in Africa plaga occi- dentalis procurator generalis ob vitam multifaria Dei miseiicordia ibidem conservatam Calicem hunc e purissimo auro Guineano conflatam clx. viii minis Valentem. Dei honori et ecclesice de Welsh Pool ministeriu, perpeluo* sacrum voluit, Aquousus.s. si <|uis facinorosus eundein calicem in posterum alienarel (quod averiat Deus) Dei vindicis supremo tribunali paanas luat. cal. Apr. ix, MDLX11. Here is a small endowment for a Free- School, and a School-room in the church. The County-hall is a new building, station¬ ed in the centre of the town, built at the expense of a few gentlemen, for the pur¬ pose of easing the county rate, previously much burdened by levies. The structure presents an elegant front with a colonade and pilasters of stone. The upper apart¬ ments are fitted for the administration of justice, and the lower ones for the accom¬ modation of tradesmen. Beneath is room fora spacious corn market another space for the sale of miscellaneous articles, and an ample court for holding the assizes or great sessions. The county hall room is upon the second floor, for convening pub¬ lic meetings, measuring 64 feet by 25, and 18 feet high. A room adjoining is for the grand jury. The Severn is navigable for small barges up to a place called the Pool Stake, about |m. from the town, tho’ upwards of 200m. from it’s mouth in the Bristol channel. A canal is forming, to which the Ellesmere will join at a right angle near Hordly, to pass through Llan¬ ymynach, Pool, and Berhiw to Newtown. In ns. The Oak ; Cross-keys. In ditches on the road between Pool Quay and the turnpike road leading to the town, grows Huttonia palustris. 1318 1317 WELSH POOL. Almost opposite to Welshpool, on the ither side of the Severn, is Buttington, the lutdigingtune of the Saxons; where, in 194, the Danes, under Hesten, took their tation; but the generals of king Allred nstantly blocked them up, and reduced bus to famine and despair, they forced heir way through the Saxons who cut hem to pieces At the distance of I m. in a conspicuous ituation, near the road from Montgomery, tands Powys Castle, or Castle coch, origi- tally built of reddish stone; it has si nee been nuch plastered over with red lime. Thean- ique grandeur of the building is destroyed, ay the alteration of the windows to modern ;ashed ones. The principal entrance is a gateway between two massy round towers. In front 2 immense terraces, rising one a- bove another, form the ascent by means of a vast flight of steps. These are ornament¬ ed with vases, statues, antique remains, ice. Several other towers are still standing, flanked with semicircular bastions. The area exhibits nothing worthy of notice, ex¬ cept a gallery 117 feet long, and 20 broad. It was once much more extensive. Upon the ground floor the apartments are gloo¬ my. The dining-room and the state bed¬ room are also gloomy ; out the saloon and library are delightfully lighted. The view from the former embraces the richly wood¬ ed vale of the Severn, backed by the Brcid- din hills. The terrace below is a noble, tho’ antiquated appendage. These apart¬ ments contain some valuable antiques. In the large parlour within the dwelling- house, is a full length picture of Roger Palmer, earl of Castlcmain, who obtained the peerage by the influence of his wife, a mistress of Charles 2, the notorious duch¬ ess of Cleveland. He is represented in the act of dictating to his secretary. This singular character was sent by James 2, to the pope at Rome, to endeavour to ob¬ tain a pardon for heresy and a reconcilia¬ tion between the two dissevered churches. The pope knew the folly of the attempt. Whenever the cnglish ambassador advanc¬ ed, violent fits of coughing seized his holi¬ ness. Thus wearied by delay the envoy grew vexed, and threatened to pack up his credentials and leave Rome. The pope very cooly answered with apparent affec¬ tion, that since he had so determined, he advised him “ to travel early in the morn¬ ing and to rest at noon, least by over fa¬ tigue and the efTccts of heat, he should en¬ danger his health.” [sec Misson, iii, 176, Jcc.J A narrow gallery leading to the sleeping rooms is hung round with family portraits. In one the 3 daughters of Wm. the 2d marquis of Powis, are represented, the first as Truth, lady Thogmorton ap¬ pears as Charity ; lady Mary as Minerva; and Justice is driving away Envy, Malice, and other vices. Lady Mary made a con¬ siderable figure in the world. She aimed at millions by engaging deeply in the Mis- sippi scheme; endeavoured to become consort to the late pretender; and with a noble adventurer, retired to Spain, to search for gold in the mines of the Astu¬ rias. In a detached building, more mod¬ ern than the castle, is a collection of 60 or 70 pictures. Some ot these are by the first masters, as Poussin, Claude, Bassano, Vlciger, Canaletti, Cuvp, &c. The Vir¬ gin and Child, by Carlo Dolce; 3 owls by Rubens; an ancient painting in fresco, from the ruined city of Pompeii. The por¬ trait of the late lord Clive, by Dance. In an adjoining closet is the model of an ele¬ phant, covered with a coat of mail, with two indians upon it’s back, brought from India by the late lord Clive. Gardens have been laid out with parallel terraces, and squared slopes. The ancient water¬ works and clipped shrubs are removed. The Park, formed of spacious and verdant lawns, with swelling lulls, extends to the town, and is excellently wooded. At the top of this park is a distant view of Plin- limmon, Cader Idris, Snowdon, Aran- mowddwy, &c. and an index is placed pointing to each of them. A road is taste¬ fully conducted to the castle, which is oc¬ casionally seen and lost in the approach. “ Powys Castle,” says sir Richard Hoare, “ stands pre-eminent in this part of the country lor it’s fine situation and com¬ manding terrace. It is one of those build¬ ings, the character of which requires the adoption of Italian architecture, and the old-fashioned style of garden ; it’s ter¬ races should be preserved, it’sbullustrades decorated with statues and vases, inter¬ woven with creeping plants and ever¬ greens; in short, it should be made a Villa d’ F.ste in miniature.” About the year 1109, Cadwgan ap Bleddyn ap Cynfyn be¬ gan to erect a castle but being treacherous¬ ly murdered by his nephew Madwc, the building was left unfinished. [Sec Wynne, 1319 WELSH 137.] It was continued by Gwy nwy nwy n, who succeeded his father Owen Cyveilioc, in the government of this part of Powis- land. His son Gryffydd afterwards as¬ cended the throne of Powys, holding his territory in capiteof the crown, under king John. Incensed at this princes unnatural conduct, Llewelyn ap Jorwerth took, and dismantled this fortress in the year 1233. Afterwards the grandson of Gwynwyn- wyn, Owen ap Gryffydd, under euglish protection, remained in possession of the place. On his demise he left a daughter to represent his right, whose claims were disputed on the plea that no female could become heiress to the throne, a political maxim which the english monarchs deriv¬ ed from a code enacted by Pharamond, king of the Franks. Under these circum¬ stances, Hawys acted a prudent part; she made the reigning monarch her friend, and was married to John de Charlton, whom the king appointed baron Powys, and Va- lectus Domini Regis. In their'posterity the barony and estates continued for seve¬ ral generations. Sir John Grey of Heton in Northumberland, by his marriage with Jane, eldest daughter of lord Edward Powys, next possessed it as a moiety of the estate. He unfortunately fell at Baugee in 1421. In the 29th year of Elizabeth, Edward Grey, conveyed by purchase the lordship and castle of Powys to sir Edward Herbert, 2d son of the chivalrous Wm. Herbert earl of Pembroke. He dying was buried in the church of Pool, and was suc¬ ceeded by his son William. Peiroy lord Powys, on the breaking out of the civil war declared in favour of royalty, but was compelled to surrender to the parliamen¬ tarian army under general sir Thomas Myddleton in Oct. 1344. On this event all his fine estates were confiscated, but he obtained repossession by compounding for them. It remains still in the posses¬ sion of the Herberts, being the property of lord Clive the oldest son of Edward earl of Powis. At a short distance from Welshpool lies the pleasing Vale of Cyfeiliog. At the foot of the Breiddin hills are the ruins of the Cistercian Monastery, called Strata Mar¬ cella, or Ystrad Marchell, founded by Owen Cyfeiliog, in 1170. Hereabouts the bota¬ nist will find Pyrus aria, Pteris crispa, Co¬ tyledon lutea, Sedum rupestre, Papaver cambricum, Chlora perfoliata, Lichnis vis- cafia. pool. \m To the n. of Welshpool rises abruptly from the vale, Moel y Coif a, Craig llreid- dyn, Cefn Castell, and the trifid summits of a rock more than 1000 feet in height. On the highest peak the gratitude of thccoun- try erected an obelisk to commemorate the important victory obtained by Rodney over the French fleet in 1782. The vale of Montgomery and Shrewsbury stretch beneath, through which the Severn winds placidly. The distant views are remark¬ ably fine, the solitary Wrekin rising upon the plain of Salop ; the extensive chain of the contiguous mountains; the summits of Snowdon to the n. and Cader-Idris to the w. Upon the Craig Breiddin grows Veronida hybrida, Potentilla rupestris; and on the steepest parts, Pyrus aria. The road to Llanfair lies through a hilly, yet well cultivated country. Pro¬ ceeding 3m. a house on the r. is called Sylfan, and another Hengwm ; 1m. further is Dolardden, where |m. on the road to Montgomery on the 1. is Castell Caer En- nion. The remainder of the road to Llan¬ fair is specked with here and there a house. One on the r. 1 m. from Dolarddin, is call¬ ed Penfordd Herbert. A rich valley, watered by the infant Severn, conducts the tourist, amid popu¬ lous villages, to Newtown, almost en¬ compassed by the river, and surrounded by high wooded hills. Upon one of them stands a temple, from which the landscape is enchantingly fine.—Skrine. On the road to Llanymynach, distant 6m. pass the 3 high mountains before- mentioned, called Breiddin or Preiddin hills, to the r. This district is agreeably broken into gentle risings prettily wood¬ ed. Gilcsficld village and church are pleas¬ ingly situated under the hills. Pass by Garth, a scat of the Mittons; and by the Church of Llandysilio; soon after cross the river Fyrnwy by a ferry. Llwyn y groes lies a little out of the road, upon the banks of the Severn, the residence of the late ingenious mr. Evans, who published the 9 sheets map of N. Wales ; or at the dis¬ tance of lm. from Llanymynach, instead of the direct road to the ferry, turn to the 1. and go circuitously over the bridge. On the road to Montgomery, Pouiis Castle appears to great advantage. Pro¬ ceed over a fine level country surrounded by an amphitheatre of distant hills. At the distance of lm. turn to the 1. and cross 1321 WELSH POOr he Severn upon a good bridge, to thevil- age of Leighton. Proceed 2m. to Forden, >n the r. catch a glimpse of Nanlcribbu, he seat of viscount Hereford. About 2m. urther cross the Camlet river, over a pleasing tract of undulating country. A veil-built inn is situated about mid-way. Dn approaching Montgomery, it’s ruined tastle, frowning even in decay, appears tpon a high 'rock; and upon a higher tminence the remains of an ancient britisli ’unification. To Newtown, at the distance of lm. :ross the Montgomery canal, (About ljm. from Pool, on the 1. is a road to Montgom¬ ery, dam.) Pass Powis Cat,tie, Diserth. and lielan, on the r. to Ltwynderw and Tyn y dilol, 22 m. Beyond, 2Jm. is a road to the !. to a ferry across the Severn to Forden Chapel, and j\~anlcribba, the latter of whit h is stationed upon the tract of Offa’s dyke. Cross the Montgomery canal, leaving Berhiw on the r Cross the Rhiw river to Efelfach, 2m. Here is a house belonging to Arthur Davies, esq. and lm. on the r. Faenor Park, John Winder, esq. Garthmill, i^m. On the r. Humphrey Jones, esq. Pass fafern y Trap, Tulwrn, on the r. and Fen y lloorn, and Pius Meredith, on the 1. not tar distant one from the other; jm. further oil the r. Pennant, Gian Hafrcn, and l.ygo- dig, on the 1. on the way to the bridge where the Severn is crossed to Brynder- teen, 3m. Cross the Mule river to Aber- mule, gin. Neuoddfraith, 1 jtn. Pennant, John Burpley Williams, esq. |m. Llan- llwchaiarn, Igtrt. Newtown, l£m. To Llanymyn.Kli, 9,j miles, Pennant, Kingley. — Llanfair, 7^ miles, livans. — Montgomery, b) Lewis Castle, 8 miles, Wynd- liam; V\ arner. — Newtown, IjJ miles, Skrine. Ftom Clun, 12 miles, Warner. WIGMORE, in Herefordshire, in the reign of Edward the confessor belonged to Edric S) Ivaticus, earl of Shrewsbury, who after the conquest, refusing to submit to the norman yoke, and being vanquished and taken prisoner by Ranulph de Morti¬ mer, was deprived ol all his extensive pos¬ sessions, w hich were then granted to Ra- nulph, by the norman conqueror, in re¬ ward lor Ins important services. Frqm this period, Wigmorc became the head of the famous barony of the Mortimers, catls ,. WIGMORE. 1322 of March, and had 21 manors, which owed suit to the Honour-court, held here once every 6 weeks. This family settled at Wigmorc. In the reign of Henry 4, the celebrated Owen Glendwr, provoked by the injustice of lord Grey of Ruthin, took up arms to recover possession of an estate of wdiich he had been unjustly deprived by that nobleman. Henry sent assistance to Grey; and by this impolitic conduct, kindled the flames of a tedious and bloody war; for Glendwr supported by his coun¬ trymen, sustained the contest with invinci¬ ble hardihood; and approached the estates ol the Mortimers, committing almost every kind of depiedation in his progress. The earl of March advanced from Wigmore to give him battle ; but, after a despciatc struggle, was defeated, and made prisoner, according to tradition, by Glendwr him¬ self, after a personal combat sustained with great bravery, lieniy refused to ran¬ som the earl of March, it is supposed on account of the latter being the real heir to the crown. Mortimer indignant at the neglect, formed an alliance with Glendwr, in conjunction with his relatives the Per¬ cies of Northuinbv 1 land ; but the celerity ol Henry defeated their army near Shrew s- bury, before they could effect a junction with the other confederates. The army of Glendwr himself, was dispersed’ near Leominster, by the sudden approach of prince Henry, after wards Henry 3. Glen- dwr never recovered this event; for being proscribed, and forced to become a wan¬ derer, he is said, by some authors, to have been lound starved to death in Haywood forest, near Hereford: others, with more probability, say he sought refuge at the house of one of his sons in law, either Scudamore or Monnington, both of Here¬ fordshire. Tradition affirms that he died at the abode of the latter, and that lie was buried in the church yard at Monnington. The situation ol Wigmore is very roman¬ tic : it’s sue is the slope of an immense mountain of bare rock, and the streets themselves, are undisturbed masses of stone, which rende rs them almost impas¬ sable for horses and carriages. Upon an eminence w. ol the village, irregularly intersected by ravines, and covered with, underwood, aie the ruins of/the Castle, now almost enveloped by a rrtantle of rit h ivy. Theoutwatd wall is the most perfect, tho’ of this a very considerable part isdc- 1323 WIGMORE. 1324 stroyed. Within the area, upon a high artificial hill, are the ruins of the keep, chiefly consisting of massive fragments, grandly overlooking the country to the n. and e : on the w., the castle is itself com¬ manded by a more elevated hill, now cov¬ ered by a flourishing young wood. The principal entrance is to the e., which ap¬ pears singularly low ; a profuse mantle of ivy crowns the summit, which, creeping over some of the adjoining bastions, gives an air of venerable majesty to the mould¬ ering pile. The original founder of this castle has not been ascertained, but the time was certainly previous to the reign of Edward the elder who repaired Wig- more. It was taken from Edric Sylvaticus by Ranulph Mortimer; and appears to have been soon afterwards rebuilt by Wm. Fitz-Osborne, carl of Hereford ; it after¬ wards came into the Mortimer family, who resided here for some centuries in almost princely grandeur; extending their juris¬ diction over all the surrounding country, exercising many of the rights of sover¬ eignty, holding their own courts, and try¬ ing and executing the criminals found within their demesne. It is now an ap¬ pendage to the estate of lord Oxford, whose ancestors have enjoyed it ever since the reign of James 1, whogranted it to Thomas Harley, esq. of Brampton Brian, the great grand father of the Lord Treasurer in Queen Ann’s reign. On the right is a solitary farm-house called Government, where the steward of the castle was w'ont to reside ; who received from the numer¬ ous tenants of the barony, the rents of their respective farms, in kind. Upon the hills w. of the castle, were 2 parks, now plough¬ ed up and cultivated. The n. extremity of Darfold hill displays vestiges of a small camp. The Church is a spacious, an¬ cient edifice, standing upon the pinnacle of the hill, and close to a precipice. It is curiously constructed of large blocks of light and porous composition resembling pumice-stone. Within, the most striking object is a sumptuous seat facing the pul¬ pit. The church-yard affords a view of the flat unwholesome country to the n. of the village ; and lm. to the 1., the Grange of the Abbey, founded by sir Hugh de Morti¬ mer. The monks were of the order of St. Austin. In the Abbey Church many of the Mortimers were buried, and among tlicro the five earls of March; all of whose monuments were destroyed at the dissolu¬ tion, with the building itself. The lands belonging to the Grange are rented at 500/. per annum. About the year 1760, a stone coffin was discovered, with a small urn holding ashes, “ with some silver coin in the leaden coffin, which contained a body perfect, but mouldered when opened.”— Addit. to Camd,en, ii, 454. Croft Castle is situated 3m. s-e. from Wig. more. It was the ancient seat of the Crofts, a saxon family of distinction, who resided here in the reign of Edward the confessor, but were deprived of the inheritance by the conqueror. They however soon re¬ covered possession, and their descendcnts continued to reside here till nearly the con¬ clusion of the 16th century, when the family became extinct. This estate after¬ wards became the property of the Johnes’, and where Thomas Johnes, esq. of Hafod, was born, who sold it to the present pro¬ prietor Somerset Davis, esq., who has al¬ so a seat called Wigmore Hall, about 2m. distant. It. formerly had a castle, but this has long since beeh demolished. This Hall has been considerably modernised, presenting a handsome front, with circular and pointed windows,, and 4 embattled corner towers. An extensive park fa¬ mous for it’s large oak and beech trees, ranges upon an eminence to the n. from Croft, in the n-w. part of which is a british camp, of an eliptical form, with a double ditch and rampart, called Croft Ambrey, from Ambrosius, a celebratedbritish hero. The prospect from this site is very exten¬ sive and grand, comprehending within it’s wide circuit 13 counties. Upon an emi¬ nence to the s-w. about Aymestre, is a smaller Camp of a square form. The val¬ ley through which the river Lug flows in this part of it’s course, is extremely rich and picturesque; particularly near Aymes¬ tre, where the bridge, rocks, hanging woods, and beautiful meadows, compose a scene worthy of the pencil of Claude. On the way to Leominster, at the dis. tance of 2m. is the village of Aymestry , si. tuated in a valley exceedingly rich and cultivated. One mile and a half further is the little village of Mortimer’s Cross, situated in a very beautiful valley, bound¬ ed by considerable eminences, covered with fine timber, and watered by the Lug. There is a decent public house at the dis¬ tance of 3m. near the-intcrscction of two 1325 WIGMORE. ross roads. This neighbourhood is cele¬ brated on account of the battle 'fought be¬ tween the partizans of the rival houses of York and Lancaster, on Candlemas eve, 1461 ; which terminated in favour of the earl of March, afterwards Edward 4, who commanded in person. The immediate site of the battle was Kingsland Field, a small level plain, intersected by a brook. Here, in an angle of 2 roads, a neat Tuscan Pedestal of white stone has been erected, having on it’s base the following inscrip¬ tion. “ This Pedestal is erected to perpetuate the memory of an obstinate, bloody, and decisive bat¬ tle fought near this spot, in the civil wais between the ambitious houses of York and Lancaster, on the 2d day of February, 14TH), between the forces of Edward Mortimer, earl of March, afterwards Ed¬ ward 4, on the side of York, and those of Henry 6, on the side of Lancaster. I he king’s forces were commanded by Jasper, eat I of Pembroke; Edward commanded his own in person, and was victorious. The slaughtet was great on both sides; 4000 being left dead upon the field ; and many welsh persons ot the first distinction, were taken piisoners among whom was Owen Tudor, great grand-father to Henry 8, and a descendant of the iltustrious Cad- wallader, who was afteiwards beheaded at Here¬ ford. This was the decisive battle which fixed Ed¬ ward 4 upon the throne of England. He was pro¬ claimed king on the 5th of Match following. Erect¬ ed by subscription, 1799.” Near this place is Lucton, noted on account of it’s excellent charity school, founded and liberally endowed by the late— Pierre- point, for educating, apprenticing, and apportioning ’a certain number of poor children of the neighbouring parishes. Kingsland is a pleasant well-built, and neat village, remarkable as to a custom prevalent among the inhabitants, of shad¬ ing their doors and windows with jasa- rnine, woodbines, and grape vines. The Church is a massive building, consisting of an embattled tower, a nave, side aisles, and chancel. Kingsland was the great in¬ heritance ol the Mortimers. This manor was part of the esta e of the late lord vis¬ count Bateman, of Shobden-court. Lord Malden sold it to the rev. — Evans, whose son now enjoys it. It is situated about 2m. from Mortimer’s Cross. The Park is exten¬ sive, and includes some rich scenery. Near this mansion is the Church, built by Oli¬ ver de Merlylond, steward to Hugh de Mortimer, about the year 1140, and asmall Priory for Canons near it, but afterwards removed to Eye, and thence finally to Wig- morc. WORCESTER. 1326 To Hereford, 23 miles, Warner. — Leominster, 8 miles. — Ludlow, 8 miles. ^**sssrrr**ss**r*r****-r'*'*''-*' r '*' Commencement with mr. Lipscomb at this city. WORCESTER. This beautiful city was known among the britons by the name of Caer-Gwyrangon, with the romans Bra- nonium. The saxons named it Weogor- na Ceastrc, whence it was corrupted to Wirecester, or Worcester. The ancient history of this city presents no uncommon circumstance till the time when the bri¬ tons were driven out by the saxons, and retired beyond the Severn, still defending themselves against the encroaching con¬ querors. Most of the great Cities on the e. side of the Severn and Dee were built by the Romans or Saxons, or both, against the Britons. The Wiccian viceroys, be¬ longing to the kingdom of Mercia seem to have inhabited all that tract anciently sub. ject to the bishop of Worcester; i.e. all Gloucestershire e. of the Severn, with the city of Bristol ; all the county of Worces¬ tershire, except 16 parishes in the n-w. part, lying beyond Abherley hills and the river Teme, and nearly the s. half of War¬ wickshire, with the town of Warwick.— Brevairie of Britain, p. 26. Worcester owed great part ot it’s prosperity under the saxon government, to duke Ethelred and his lady Ethelfieda, daughter of Alfred the great, belore the year 900. They gave a charter, hy desire of bishop Waerlred, that the city might he improved and fortified ; for this purpose they granted to the church or minister there one half of the royal dues, or tolls arising from the market or the street, reserving only the wain-shilling and the seam penny ; which was a duty on wares carried out; one penny each horse¬ load, and 12 times as much a loaded wain, to the king. This city was destroyed by fire in 1041, by Uardicanute in revenge against the inhabitants, for killing the col¬ lector of his exorbitant taxes. In 1080, Roger de Montgomery, earl of Shrews¬ bury, burnt the suburbs and attacked the city ; but the inhabitants, headed by bishop Wulstan, bravely resisted him, killed or took prisoners 5000 men, and obliged the enemy to raise the seige. It was again burnt at different periods, and once a con¬ siderable patt of the suburbs were con¬ sumed by OwcnGlyndwr, who was en¬ camped in 140j at tlie head of a powerful 1327 WORCESTER. 1328 army upon Wobury Hill, in the parish of Whitley, and suffered materially during the civil wars between the adherents to the houses of York and Lancaster. In 1486 the city endured much from it’s ad¬ herence to Henry 7, during lord Lovel’s rebellion. In the turbulent reign of Charles the first, the city suffered all the dire ef¬ fects which civil contentions entail on mankind. It had indeed been long uni¬ formly attached to the royal cause. A- bout the year 1642 it was occupied by the king’s forces, but was surrendered to par¬ liamentary power. After various struggles in behalfof the royal cause in 1661, Charles 2, with his army from Scotland, entered the town, without opposition, the small garrison of Cromwell’s forces having es¬ caped by flight. This loyal attachment of Worcester has been the cause of several visits to the city by different sovereigns. The last was in 1788, when his majesty king George the third, the queen, the duke of York, and the princesses, honoured this place with their presence, the particulars of which are largely detailed in Green’s History. This place is both ancient and respectable, the see of a bishop, situated in a fine vale, upon the e. bank of the Sev¬ ern, nearly in the centre of the county. The country around is remarkable for va¬ riety of feature and fertility. It is shield¬ ed on the e. by fine woods. Is open to the n. and s. The Malvern hills appear to the vv. distant 7m. Worcester was once surrounded by a very strong wall, with 6 gates, but the whole of these have been levelled, in order to make room, it is said, for improvements. In Young’s plan of this city, as surveyed in 1779, the number of houses is stated to be 2449, and of in¬ habitants 13,104. Since that time a con¬ siderable addition of houses has been made, particularly on Henwick-hill, and yet ac¬ cording to the statement of population taken by order of government in May 1801, the total amount of inhabitants was only 12792. The plan of this city is regular, consisting of one principal street with others branching from it, nearly at right angles. Great conveniencies have lately been made in it's different avenues. The streets are generally broad, so as to admit e free circulation of air, and are well paved and lighted. The works for supplying the dty with water are placed upon the Severn, about Ira. to then.; they cost upwards of 11,0001. The government is administered by a mayor, a recorder, 6 aldermen, who are justices of the peace, chosen out of 24 principal citizens and councellors, a sher¬ iff, and 2 chamberlains, who are annually elected. These are assisted by a town- clerk, 2 coroners, and 48 common council men, who compose the corporate body, and are attended by a sword bearer, 4 Ser¬ jeants at mace, 13 constables, 4 musicians, and 4 beadles. Worcester is a city and county in itself and returns 2 members to parliament. The right of election is in freemen not receiving alms, and admitted to their freedom by birth, or servitude, or by redemption, in order to trade in the city; the electors are about 2,400. The public buildings in Worcester are numer¬ ous. The Guildhall is elegant and magni¬ ficent, placed nearly in the middle of High-street. It is a modern edifice be¬ gun in 1721 and finished in 1723, from ^ design by Tho. White, a native of Worces¬ ter, and pupil to sir Christopher Wren. The front is brick with stone quoins. 'The windows have stone mouldings with sculptured tablets beneath. A cove cor¬ nice is placed over the whole, with a cir¬ cular pediment, from fluted stone pilas¬ ters, with a large roman trophy. The en¬ trance is formed by two 3 quarter columns composite, enriched, indented cornice and open pediment, in which are the city arms. In niches on each side of the entrance are statues of the first and 2d Charles. In a niche between the 2 centre windows, over the pediment is a statue of queen Anne. The parapet supports statues of Justice, Peace, Plenty, Chastisement, and Labour. The hall on the first floor is handsome, measuring 110 feet 6 inches, by 25 feet 6 inches, and21 feet high, in whichisafine wholelcngth painting of Thomas Winning- ton, esq. and some other portraits. Two courts of justice project from the main structure, on the s. the Nisi Prius bar, on the n. that for the crown. Here the as¬ sizes and sessions, both for the city and county are held. The council chamber is a sumptuous apartment, improved in 1805 at a considerable expense. In the centre, opposite the entrance is a portrait of Geo. 2, in a richly ornamented frame, present¬ ed by him to the corporation. It is placed upon a bracket of statuary marble, sculp¬ tured with oak-leaves and acorns. This room is ornamented with 12 chandeliers. 1329 WORCESTER. 1330 A little tothe w. of Forcgate-strect.at the appears from the carvings in the refectory, extreme n. boundary of the city, upon an It is encompassed to the e. by the ancient eminence, stands the Infirmary, which city wall. Those apartments which were •anks among the ornamental structures of once used for devotional exercises are now :liis city. This building was erected by the receptacle of criminals and debtors, voluntary subscription at an expense of The Castle appears to have been built by 508 51. towards which the late sir John Urso d’Abitot, a norman captain, who tlushout subscribed 500/. Almost oppo- came with the conqueror, and was also iite the Infirmary on the r. leading from the founder of the Priory of Great Mal- Foregate-street into Pitchcroft, just with- vern. “The castle stood hard on the s. out the boundaries of the city, is a New part of the Cathedral church, almost on Prison for the county. This ample suit of Severne ; it is now clene down, and half buildings was designed by Francis Sandys, the base court or area of it is now within asq., and erected under the superinten- the wall, in the close of the cathedral dence of mr. Nicholas Willoughby, at an church. The dungeon hille is a great expense of nearly 19,000/. The boundary thynge, at this time overgrown with brush wall of brick, 15 feet high, encloses about wood. This castle fell to ruin soon after 3 acres of ground. The garden without the conquest, and half the ground of it was the wall contains about l£ acres. The given to ihe augmenting of the close of front of the prison is formed of Bath stone the priory’’.—Leland. iv, 184. Little now rusticated, and the entrance is by a gate un- remains as a testimony of it’s former great- der an arch of freestone. On one side is a ness. Part of the rampire is notyetTe- lodge, the other side consists of receiving moved, and the exterior ditch may be cells and cells for condemned felons; this easily traced, extending towards the lower part of the buildings is called the Lazaretto, called Edgar's, from the statues of that The jailor’s house, is placed in the middle monarch and his two queens, Llflcda and of the enclosed ground, and commands a Elfrida, being placed on the e. front. On view of the buildings appropriated to the the opposite side there is a remarkable different classes of criminals, and those bust, very well finished, representing a wretched beings condemned to solitary monk in a bending posture, supporting confinement. The jailor’s house includes himself with his left hand, and holding Ins the chapel, which is connected with the right towards his breast. Here is also a various buildings by bridges. The House well executed bust of Geo. 2, by Thomas of Industry is an extensive new edifice of White. This stately portal is the finest brick placed upon Tallow-hill, at a small remnant of antiquity in the city. It formed distance to the e. of the city. It was both the principal entrance to the castle, and designed and executed under the direction appears by the style of building to have of G. Byefield, esq.; and finished in Do- been coeval w ith the church of St. Helens, cember 1794. It cost *7318/. The Theatre about the year 970. Others suppose it to on the n. side of Angel-street, is 66 feet have been originally built by king Ethel- long and 36 wide; completed in 1780. red 2, in 1005. The keep of this ancient The Public Subscription Library is situated fortress stands upon an artificial mount tal¬ on the n-w. side of Angel-street. It was led Castle-hill, w'liich was lately occupied established in 1790. Is managed by a pre- as the County Prison, andihe groundsfono sident, treasurer, and a committee of 15 a pleasant garden. Great additions wqre other subscribing members. The libra- begun at this spot in the year 1734, and rian attends from A past eleven to ^ past 2. continued at the expense of 5000/. The The present Bridge over the Severn, was present Trade of this city consists princi- built by act of parliament, towards the pally in the manufacture of gloves, and of erecting of which H. C. Boulton, and J. china; in the sale of hops, and in distilla- Walsh, esquires, the members for the city, tion. In the glove-trade there are 70 mas- gave 3000/. The whole expense is stated ters, who employ 5000persons. Thebeau- at about 30,000/. The City Jail is on the tiful porcelain of Worcester, engages three e. side of Friar’s-street. It was once, ac- considerable manufactories ; that of Barr, cording to Lclana, a religious house for Flight, and Barr, is situated in Palace-row, the Grey, or Franciscan Friars, as early as opposite St. Albin’s church, in Fish-street, 1266. This building is very ancient, as on the banks of the Severn. C.nds of ad- 1331 WORCESTER. 1332 mission may be obtained at their retail warehouse, 45, High-street. That of Chamberlains and Co. is in Diglis; retail warehouse, 59, High-street. That of Granger, Wood, and Wilkins, is in Lowes- mere, retail warehouse, 43, High-street. Porcelain is a half vitrified substance be¬ tween the common earthenware and pure glass. The country of China was fomcrly supposed to possess the substances neces¬ sary to form this article, but the late doctor Wall, directed his researches to the inves¬ tigation of substances likely to produce it and he discovered that such were in Eng¬ land and other parts of Europe ; the result of these experiments have greatly pro¬ moted the success of these manufactories. The superior strength and colour of the Worcester porcelain, and the superiority of it’s embellishment are soobvious, that now instead of importing this article, a consid¬ erable exportation has taken place, and orders in general have rapidly increased. The Hop-market is at the s. end of Fore- gate-street, almost at the centre of the city. The interior of this building forms a regu¬ lar quadrangle, surrounded by warehous¬ es. The produce of the hop is very pre¬ carious. In the year 1804, 37,542 pockets were sold here, in 1805 only 11,824 ; the average may be about 25,000. The Distil- lery of british spirits, is a large concern, pay. ing about 700/. a week for duty. The con¬ sumption of grain is of course very con¬ siderable. This species of commerce has often been lashed by public censure. Without undertaking a decision, a plain question may be asked. Whether of two proceedings should be preferred, the use of grain for bread and ale, or the use of it for the luxury of spirits and for the fatten¬ ing of oxen and hogs ? Some years ago the Carpet Manufactory formed a consid¬ erable trade, but Kidderminster has taken the lead. Five annual Fairs are held in this city, viz. on the day before Palm-sun- day, on the Saturday in Easter-week, on the 15th of Aug. on the 19th Sep. and on the first Monday in December. Toll-free markets 2d Monday in Feb. 1st Mondays in May, June, July, and Nov. Weekly markets, on Wednesday, Friday, and Sa¬ turday. The Aew Market Place is opposite the town-hall; 5050 1. was expended in it’s formation. It occupies a considerable space of ground, extending to the sham¬ ble*. This city contains some good Inns. The Hop-pole, and Star and Garter, in Fore¬ gate-street, and the Crown, & Unicoin, in Broad st. are all posting-houses. The Walks contiguous to the city are numerous, as the Sansome-fields, Perry-wood, Rainbow hill, and the Moors, near Pitchcroft. The Foregate-street, being broad, well paved, and airy, is resorted to as a fashionable pro- mendade. During the summer months, pleasant Gardens are opened on the w, side of the Severn ; and their high situa¬ tion commands an extensive view both of Worcester and the adjacent country. The river Severn, in a commercial view, is of the utmost importance to this city, being connected with all the n. counties by a canal branching from Stourport; and by it’s junction with the Thames through the Stroud canal, it has an immediate connec¬ tion with the capital. A more direct com¬ munication with Birmingham is forming by a canal, adapted for vessels of large tonnage. The Severn is navigable for ves¬ sels of 110 tons to Gloucester, 90 to Tewkesbury, 80 to Worcester, 60 to Stour¬ port and Bewdley, 40 to Shrewsbury, and of 30 to Pool Quay, tho’ during rainy sea¬ sons it is capable of bearing vessels of more considerable burden. This river a- bounds with salmon, shad, lamprey, and lampern. This Bishoprick was founded by Ethelred, king of the Mercians, anno 680. It’s rents are calculated at 5000/. The lives of the bishops of this see may be found in doctor Thom.p. Wakefield, who added those arches, de died 1394-5. This stone was remov¬ ed, 1756, when the pavement was laid. Jndertlie first window, near the cloister loor is a M. of dr. William Thomas, bp. >f this diocese, died 1689. Adjoining is a M. to Tho. James, m. d. head master of Rugby school, Warwick, who died Sep. 93, 1804, aged 55. Upon a white oval tab¬ let, fixed to a grey marble slab, is aclassi- :al inscription, by dr Parr, to the memory af James Johnstone, jun. m.d. died Sep. 17, 1783, aged 30. Under the 2d window is a cumbent statue of a priest, vested for the altar, with a large tonsure; said by some to be the tomb of Friar Baskerville, who wrote a treatise on tenures. Next is a white tablet to lieu. col. Dumaresq, who died Mar. 5, 1804, aged 43. Above this is a M. for mr. Richard Inglethorp, who founded the hospital in this city for 6 poor men. Under the 3d window a tomb un¬ known. A M. for mrs. Octavia Walsh, who died 1706. Above to the w. is a neat M. of Catherine, daughter of sir Brian Palmes, of Linely, Yorks, died 1703. Un¬ der the 4lh window, another T. unknown. Opposite to Wilde’s T. is a M. of John Bromley, esq. son of Thomas Bromley, of Holt-castle, knt. died 1674. Under the 5th window, a plain tomb over the renowned judge Litleton, justice of com. pleas, in the reign of Edw. 4. Next is a handsome M. to sir Thomas Litleton, knt. and bart, and his lady, died Feb. 1649. Under the 6th window is the tomb of bp. Freake, with several inscriptions, died 1591. Un¬ der the 7th (hlank) window is a handsome marble M. by King, of Bath, to Randolph Marriott, esq. who died June 2, 1807, aged 71. Upon a tablet under the 8th (blank) window is inscribed, “ mrs. Susannah Warren, daughter of Richard Warren of RedclifFe, Somerset, esq. died March 8, 1792,” &c. Near the end of this wall is an admirable sculpture of white marble by the younger Bacon, to Richard Solly, esq. of York-place, Portman-squarc, London, who died at Malvern from an inflammation in the abdomen, while on a tour of plea¬ sure. It represents a beautiful female, seated, her arm and head flung upon a sarcophagus, in distracted sorrow. An infant daughter is supported upon her lap by the other arm, attended by another standing, and a son kneeling, with their hands joined. Cloister on the South. At the e. end, near the s. entrance of the cathedral, upon a stone bench, lies tlae cumbent statue of a priest, said to lie Alexander Neccham, the famous abbot of Cirencester, who died 1217, at the bp’s, palace at Kemsey. At the w. end, behind a supporter of the wall, is a M.of Mary, wife of Henry Townsend, esq. died 1684. Among other curiosities within the cathe¬ dral is an octagonal Stone Pulpit, most elegantly carved in the english style. The front pannels represent the hieroglyphics of the four gospels ; upon the dies of the base are the arms of England and the see of Worcester. The New Jerusalem, as described in the Revelations, is represent¬ ed upon the plane of the inside of the pul¬ pit. The canopy is well designed, with festooned drapery, embroidery, and rib¬ band. It is ascended by stone steps from the n. aisle, the supports of which arc fine¬ ly carved. The stalls in the Choir, in num¬ ber 52, were constructed in 1397, but the cornices over them are of modern work¬ manship. The Bishop’s throne prescuts a specimen of ancient taste, ornamented with various devices. The Organ consists of nine stops, that of the trumpet is con¬ sidered very fine. It forms a magnifi¬ cent object viewed either from the nave or the choir. It was built by Tho. Dal¬ lam, in 1613. It was repaired in 1752 at the expense of 3001. King John, on his visiting Worcester in 1207, after having paid his devotions at the tomb of St. Wul- stan, and bestowed upon the prior and convent several estates, gave 100 marks to repair their cloister, which with the monastery, Had been burnt down. The present Cloister was erected in 1372. It is in length e. 125 feet; the s-w. and s. sides 120 feet in length; and the width of the whole 16 feet. The vaulted roof is adorn¬ ed with a profusion of sculptures: those most remarkable arc in the s. cloister, where the regal genealogy of Israel and Judah is arranged. It commences at the w. end. Upon the key-stone of the first arch is a figure, with a branch issuing from his bowels, supposed to be Jesse. The next key-stone exhibits David, with his harp, succeeded on the other key-stones to the centre of the arcade, where Samuel is represented annointing David. From the e. end is a genealogic series of the kings of Israel, each holding a scroll, which pro- 1339 WORCESTER. J340 bably once contained their names. There ter, is a door very handsomely arched, for- are two entrances to the cloisters ; that from college-green is of norman architec¬ ture, and undoubtedly coeval with the mother church founded by St. Wustan. On the e. side of the cloisters is the Chapter¬ house. It’s forma decagon 58 feet in diame¬ ter, 45 feet high. It’s roof is supported by a fine round umbilic pillar in the centre. It is used as a council room and a library for the use of the church. It contains a valuablecollection of printed books, which have been much augmented by the deans, and by benefactions. Here are some an¬ cient mss. chiefly on canon law. Under the choir of the cathedral is the Crypt. The roof of the area is supported by 5 rows of columns, which terminate in a semicircu¬ lar form at the e. end. The side aisles have 3 rows each, which, including those in the sepulchral chapel at it’s s. extremi¬ ty, make the entire number of columns 142. This place is totally impervious to the light of day, andean only be seen to ad¬ vantage by means of strong lights. These subterraneous cavities may be considered as clear evidences of uncommon antiquity of the cathedrals where they are found. In the primitive ages of Christianity places of the most retired privacy were resorted to for the purposes of worship, even “ caves and dens of the earth.” Towards the end of the s. cloister is the Refectory or College Hall, a spacious and very lofty room, in which is held the triennial meetings of the 3 choirs. It is used also for the King’s- scAoof, founded by Henry 8 , for 40 scholars. Besides a regular preparation for the uni- versity, music, drawing, the French, Span¬ ish, and Italian languages, and other fash¬ ionable accomplishments are taught by proper masters. The College-hall, the Chapter-house, and the Cloisters seem to have been built about the same time. The remains of the ancient Conventual Kitchen is at the back of the 7 th prebendal house, on a line with the w. end of the refectory. It is a spacious octagonal apartment diame¬ ter 34 feet. The Cellarage beneath the refectory appears to have been equal to it’s destination. The Oven of the Monas¬ tery was at the extreme s-w. corner of it’s precincts, near the Severn. Near the s. end of the w. cloister, are still the remains of the old Lavatory or cistern for washing, but it’s leaden lining is gone. Near the lavatory, about the middle of the w. clois- merly the entrance into the Dormitory, or great room, where the beds of the monks were placed. It was 120 feet long and 60 feet wide. There was also a Spital, for lodging poorer travellers and pilgrims. The infirmary of the convent was placed w. beyond the dormitory, separated only by a narrow passage, now called the Dark Alley. Two lofty walls of this building yet remain, one of them forming the s. side. There are 9 parish Churches within the liberties of the city and 2 without. St, Helen’s, situate contiguous to High-street, is said to be the most ancient. It contains 8 bells, inscribed to the honour of queen Anne, her battles, and generals. It is a rectory in the gift of the bishop. St. Al¬ ban’s, corner of Fish-street, is an ancient rectory in the patronage of the dean and chapter. St. Andrew, in Copenhagen-st. is supposed to have been erected during the 11 th century, and since that time much improved. The spire was built by Nath. Wilkinson, a native of Worcester, the gradually tapering proportion of which has been much admired. On this account it is considered a great curiosity in archi¬ tecture, and probably is the highest be¬ longing to a church in England. It’s ter¬ mination is 245 feet 6 inches from the ground. All Saints near the bottom of Broad-street, (at the e. end is a head of bp. Hough, by T. White). St. Nicholas, near the cross, St. Swithin’s, at the w. end of Mealcbeapen-street; St. Martin’s in the Corn-market; St. Clement's, on the w. ex¬ tremity of the city, near the Upper Quay, St. Peter's, near Diglis meadows, and St, Michael’s, at the n-e. angle of the cathe¬ dral, contain nothing very remarkable. The township of St. John’s is on the w. side of the Severn. The church is an old building, the interior very irregularly formed. The Roman Catholic Chapel is near Sansom-street; the Presbyterian Meeting¬ house, at the w. end of Angel-street; the Quaker’s is at the s-w. end of Sansom-fields walk ; the Anabaptists, is in Lowesmere; the Independents, on the s. side of Pump- street; the Methodists, is in Pump-street; and Lady Huntington’s in Burport. There were various Monasteries founded in this city by the piety of our forefathers. The principal one was St. Wulstan's situated towards the s e. side of the city and was endowed by the prelate whose name it 1341 WORCESTER. 1312 jore. It is yet a fine edifice, chiefly con¬ structed of wood. The great hall is ncar- y the whole that is left. There were oth- ?r monasteries, as St. Oswald’s, the Grey Jr Minor Friars, Dominicans, Penitents, fee. Worcester is one of the 24 cities ap- jointed to receive the benefit of the dona- ion of sir Thomas White, merchant-taylor ( jf Bristol. This gift directed that schools ihould be erected at Bristol, and that 2000/. ihould purchase lands, for which the may¬ or and others were directors. 50/. each was to be lent to 16 poor young men, and it the end of 10 years to be lent to 16 other young men, on their finding securities, and 200/. for selling corn to the poor with¬ out gain. Worcester has from the year 1567, in which this bounty was bequeath¬ ed, received it 10 times, and will receive it again in 1831. The estates purchased with the 2000/. according to Green, were worth in 1796, (the time in which this author published his History of Worcester) 3500/. Sir Thomas White erected also St. John’s College, Oxford. Berkeley’s Has. pita/, fou nded by j udge Berkeley, of Spetch- ley, for 12 poor men, is a neat structure, situated at the s. end of the Foregate-st. The Hospital of St. Oswald, is a very ancient foundation, considerably augmented by Thomas Haynes, esq. serjeant of his ma¬ jesty’s chapel royal, 1622. The revenues had been illegally detained, when doctor Fell, dean of Christ-church, recovered them. They support 16 men and 12 wo¬ men. Moore’s Hospital , situate on the e. side of Silver-street, provides for the cloth¬ ing and maintenance of 10 blue-coat boys of St. Martin’s parish. They are taught reading, writing, and accounts, at a school- house on the n. side of St. Swithin’s church, which was founded and endowed by queen Elizabeth. Besides these, there is Shewring’s Hospital, in the Tything, for 6 poor women, Ingle thorp’s, near the Foregate-street, for 8 men, and 1 woman ; the Trinity endowed by queen Elizabeth, for 29 poor women ; Hash’sin New-street, for 8 men and 2 women ; Wyatt’s in Friar- street, for 6 poor men ; and several others on smallerestablishments. John Worfield, esq. gave by will 100/. for the relief of 2 weavers and 2 walkers ; also certain lands iu the parishes of Powick, Leigh, Wick, and Braunsford, for maintaining and edu¬ cating 14 boys. The Triennial Meetings of the choirs of Worcester, Hereford, and Glocester, which forms one of the most respectable fetes of that kind known in England, had it’s origin in 1720, from a private weekly concert. In 1749 perform¬ ers from London were engaged ; Pinto ap¬ peared as leader of the band and Trasi and Beard as principal singers Another in¬ stitution was attached to “ The Meetings of the Three Choirs,” in aid of their dis¬ tribution annually made by the stewards for relieving the widows of clergymen, and their children, unprovided for, and such clergymen as shall be disabled by age, or infirmity, and have not sufficient for the support of iliemselves. Besides the King’s School, in College-hall, the fol¬ lowing Public schools have been endowed by royal or private munificence, yuecn Elizabeth’s, founded in the 3d year of her reign and rebuilt in 1735, is situated on the n. side of St. Swithin’s church, for the classical education of 12 boys. Mrs. Mil- brow Hook, of St. John’s, in Bedwardine, built a school-house and endowed it with 5/. a year, since augmented by a donation of 2:30/. by mrs. M. Herbert. Bp. Lloyd’s schools were founded in the year 1713, the one providing for the education of 16 boys, the other for 8 girls. In 1782, a house on the w. side of New'-street was purchased by voluntary subscription for the better accommodation of the scholars, in which the master and mistress reside. On the road to Malvern, at Powick- ford is an iron foundery, upon the banks of theTeme, which river has been made navigable to it’s junction with the Severn, about lm. distant. Here the road inter¬ sects a most beautiful meadow, stretching to the extent of 100 acres, as smooth and as level as a bowling-green. 3m. from Worcester is Powick, anciently the seat of John Beauchamp, advanced to the dignity of baron by Henry 6. The estate passed by females to the Willoughbies of Broke, the Reads, and Lygons. This place gives name to a deanery. A battle was fought here 1642, in which the royalists were victorious. Nash, ii, 262. Two miles fur¬ ther is Newland, the chapel is dedicated to St. Leonard. It was formerly a grange or farm belonging to the priory of Great Malvern j it belonged afterwards to the Walwyns and the Dickins. This place forms an assemblage of rural villas. After an easy ascent of about a £m. where is an agreeable prospect of the vale of Evesham, 1313 WORCESTER. WREKIN. 131 you reach Malvern. The great road to Leominster lies through Colheridgc, 4;jm. (on the 1. rev. dr. Berkeley,) Broadzcas, 2m. If. (on the 1. T. Newnham, esq.) Knightford’s bridge, 2^m. (on the r. is Whitborne-courr, R. Chambers, esq. where is a fine waterfall.) Cross the Teme river, which falls into the Severn, 2m. s. of Worcester, to Sapey, Inn, Wheatsheaf, 1m. Bin gslay-common, l§m. Over Bromyard Dozen, 2m. before Brom¬ yard, on the r. is Brockhampton, John Barneby, esq.; opposite to which is Clat¬ ter, R. S. Dansie, esq. Cross the Frome river, which joins the Lug, to the 1. Brom¬ yard, in Herefordshire, Sm. contains 242 houses, 983 inhabitants. (From this place to Tenbury is 12m., to Ledbury, 13j, to Hereford, 14£.) About 2m. on the I. of Bromyard, is the seat of Tho. Colley, esq.; and about lm. on the r. is the residence of dr. Tomkyns. To the village of Briden- bury, and Church, 3m. 3f., Docklow, 3m. 3f. nearly opposite on the 1. is Bucklaml, rev. — Evans, and about lm. on the r. at Pid- dleston, J. Dale, d.d. and rev. — Duppa. 2m. from Docklow, on the 1. is Humplon- eourl, R. Arkwright, esq. Eaton, 4m., Cross the Lug whichjoins the Wye at Mor- diford, to Leominster, lm. To Tenbury, cross the Severn at Hen- tcick lm. on the r. Tho. Farley, esq.. Hal¬ loa.', Crown-inn, l|m. beyond on the 1. Thorngrove, Lucian Bonaparte, brother to the emperor of the French ; Holtheath, Red-lion inn, 3Jm. on the 1. the rev. — Foley, and on the r. at a distance from the Toad, is Holt Castle, H. Chillingworth, esq. (£m. beyond, on r a road to Bewdley 7Jm. passing near Shrawley, lm.and Stourport, 6m. beyond; lm. from Hohheathis the rec¬ tory, rev. J. Foley.) Little Whitley, on the 1. 3Jm. Great Whitley , lm. (on the 1. Whit- ley-court, lord Foley, where is a very ele¬ gant church.) Hundred house Inn, Jm. (on the r. to Stourport, 5m. on the r.are the Ab- berley-hills. On the 1. is a road to Brom¬ yard, 11m. lm. beyond the Hundred house on the 1. is Abberley-lodge, Henry Bromley, dsq.; and lm. further on the r. is the Elms, late mrs. Bury.) Stockton ,and Church, (lm. on the 1. lies Stanford-court, sir Tho. Win- nington, and Hanley, col. Newport. At lm.cross the Kington canal, and^m. fur¬ ther cross it again, Earlston, 2m. (on the 1. sir Wm. Smith.) Lindridgc, Church, lm. If. (on the r. rev. doctor Evans.) Eastham, lm. (on the 1. rev. C. Whitehead.) N.run- ham, Talbot-inn, lm. (on the r. to Bewd¬ ley, 1 lm.) Cross the Rea river which runs by way of Cleobury Mortimer, and falls into the Teme at a short distance, (lm. beyond ^m. to the r. is Kington and church' and on the 1. about the same distance from- the road is Ruchford, and Church, Ten¬ bury, 3^m. To Malvern, 9 miles, Lipscomb. — Presteign, 35J miles. — Tewkesbury, 16 miles. — Leominster, 26 miles. Commen.ement of Mr. Hutton's Principal Tour. THE WREKIN, is one of the moun¬ tains which form the e. boundary of the county of Salop, on the Staffordshire bor¬ der. The hills of Acton-burnel, Frodslcy, the Lawley, and Caer Caradoc, compose the rest. “The Wrekin, with two other smaller hills on the n. and s. of it, consists of a coarse dark grey whin, red on the sur¬ face, owing to the oxidation of it’s iron. It is craggy at the top, and so much higher than the surrounding hills, as apparently to rise alone from the middle of the plain; it’s plan is a long oval, pointing nearly n. and s. it’s figure very exactly resembling that of a whale asleep on the surface of the sea; the strata which are perpendicular to the horizon, lie e. and w. or across the short diameter. The most precipitous side of the mountain is the e. ; it’s height is reckoned about 1200 feet.”—A. Aikin. The prospect from the summit is not only extensive, but amazingly fine, for the lands below being rich and level, the observer looks down upon the beautiful enclosures as upon a map. Round the top are the traces of a British camp, consisting of 2 trenches and 2 ramparts, one elevated 30 or 40 yards above the other. Each of them encircle the crown of the hill, and each admits but of one entrance, narrow as a gateway, with a small eminence on each side by way of portal. The lower, or out¬ ward trench is more than lm. round, the inner much less. This spacious camp would accommodate 20,000 men, who would find it a cold birth, suited only to a hardy briton. I know of no historical fact which will attach to this camp; but as it is not certainly known upon what hill in Shropshire Caractacus, king of Wales, was encamped, when forced by Ostorius, the 1316 345 WREKIN. WREXHAM. toman general, there is great probability Wrexham appears to have been an ancient ,f it’s being his.—W. Hutton. The line town, for it is noticed in the saxon chroni- .f hills of which the Wrekin is most cele- cle, under the name Wrightelesham. The rated, has attached the noticeof dr. Town- town was granted with the lordship to earl on and several other mineralogists. The Warren, in the reign of Edward 1, and Lc- ed sand-stone which forms the surface of land describes it [Itin. v. 32.] as contain- o large a portion of Cheshire, and of the ing “ sum merchauntes and goodbrokelcr r. half of Shropshire, extends but a few makers.” At present, the principal trade niles s. of Shrewsbury to the w. of the arises from it’s lying in the great road from onfluence of the Tern and Severn : from Shrewsbury to Chester. The High-street Iris latter point a line drawn n e. to the where the Markets on Mondaysand Thurs- own of Newport will form the boundary days are held, is spacious, and the build- if the sandstone in this quarter ; but from mgs mostly good. At the upper end of Newport this rock passes nearly due s. be- this street stands a public edifice of the ween Shifnall and Prior’s Leigh to the doric order; the upper apartment is used Severn, crosses this river 3 or 4m. above as a municipal Hall, and the piazza part Iridgnorth, and accompanies it’s course below as a kind of diurnal mart. The Fairs o Wire forest, the extreme s-e. point of are held March 23, Holy Thursday, June he county. The e. limit of this tract ex- 6, Sep. 19. Wrexham is noted for an An- ends into Staffordshire approaching with- nual Fair which lasts 9 days. The welsh n a few miles of the county town, whence bring flannels of all staple, linens, linsey- it proceeds s. to the village of Tettenhall woolseys, coarse linens, horses, sheep, and near Wolverhampton, and then passes by black cattle. Other dealers bring Irish Kidderminster to beyond Droitwich. This linens, Yorkshire and other woollen cloths, rock consists, for the most part of rather "ith Manchester, Sheffield, and Birming- fine grains of quartz with a few spangles ham goods in all their varieties. Two of mica, cemented by clay and oxyd of squares are fitted up with booths and tern- iron. It’s colour is generally brownish red, porary shops. This public mart opens the and it has but little cohesion —See further '23d of March. An Agricultural Society was Obs. on the Wrekin and on the great Coal- established here in the year 1796, consist- field of Shropshire, by Arthur Aikin, esq. > n g of about 100 members, under the pre¬ in Transactions of the Geologic Society, i, sidoncy ot sir W. W. Wynne, bart. The jijO. premiums are from 1 to 5 guineas and to Mr. Hutton noticed no place between this and proprietors, silver medals. T he Free School Oswestry. was endowed by Valentine Broughton, for - instructing 12 boys, and 10/. per annum to remunerate the master. This is an instance FromRuabon, 4m. Bingley; Skiine; Pennant, of the folly of making bequests without -Giesford, 4 miles, v\yndham. regard to the fluctuating value of money, WREXHAM, a considerable market and the villainy of those who do not apply town in Denbighshire, has been judged the surplus agreeably to the intention of by mr. Pennant to be “ the largest town the donor. The Church is a most elegant in Wales, and the parish the most popu- structure ; it may justly rank with cathe- lous.” Mr. Bingley has founded a similar drals, and forms one of the 7 wonders of opinion, adding, that from these circum- Hales: which wonders arc the mountain stances “ it has obtained the appellation of Snowdon, St. Winifred's Well, Overton of the metropolis of N. Wales.” Another Church-yard, Gresford bells, Llangollen traveller has asserted that “ the buildings Bridge, Pystil Rhaiadyr, and Wrexham are mean, and the town in general dirty, steeple. This church was erected upon and delapidated. It is observed to increase the site of one destroyed by fire, about the in population less then most other towns, year 1457, and exhibits a specimen of de- Tippling may be the deleterious cause, sign, proportion, and chaste decoration There are 55 licensed alehouses in the not surpassed by any edifice built in the parish.” By the returns made under the time of Henry 7. It was finished about census taken in I SOI, it contains 580 hous- the year 1472, except the tower wliich es, and 2575 inhabitants; a population was not completed till nearly 34 years af- less by 1051, than that of Caernarvon, terwards. During the civil wars it was 44 1347 WREXHAM. 134 converted by the parliamentarian forces Into a prison, This beautiful edifice con¬ sists of a pentagonal chancel, two collater¬ al aisles, and a lofty tower. The windows of the aisles have a flat pointed arch, and the mullions ornamented at top; between ■which are buttresses, terminating in slen¬ der crocketted pinnacles. The windows of the cleresty are narrower than those of the aisles; the arches rather inclining to the sharp pointed style; and the embattled parapet has diminishing crocketted pin¬ nacles, corresponding with those of the aisles. The height of the tower is 135 feet, the shape quadrangular, with handsome set off abutments, terminating with crock¬ etted pinnacles. The summit is crowned by 4 pierced lantern turrets, rising 24 feet, above the open wrought bulustrade. Sta¬ tues of 30 saints are placed in the niches of the buttresses, one of these represents the patron, St. Giles, with a hind by his side. The ceiling of the roof is composed of ribs in wainscot oak, in imitation of the grained work in stone, of the antecedent period. The corbels supporting the bear¬ ing timbers are carved, and grotesque heads with shields, exhibit the arms of some who contributed to the erection of the edifice. At the w. end of the nave is a grand receding pointed arch, nearly the height of the building, filled with a win¬ dow, once ornamented with elegantly painted glass, but now injured and defaced. This loss has been glaringly compensated by a few diminutive figures, &c. in the upper compartments of the windows in the aisles. The altar-piece is peculiarly beautiful. A fine painting, representing the Lord’s supper, by Rubens, occupies the central part. A picture by the same artist, representing David playing on the harp before Saul, is hung against the wall in thes. aisle. These paintings were pre¬ sented by Elihu Yale, esq., who lies un¬ der a plain altar tomb in the yard, bearing the following inscription : “ Born in America, in Europe bred, ill Afric traveled, and in Asia wed, where long he liv’d and thriv’d; in London died. Much good, some ill he did ; so hope all’s even, and that his soul through mercy’s gone to heaven. You that survive, and read, timely take care for this most certain exit to prepare: where blest in peace the actions of the just Knell sweet and blossom in the mouldering dust” The eagle and pedestal of brass, forming e reading desk, was the donation of John ap GryfFydd ap Dafydd, of Ystifan, in th neighbourhood. Under the belfry lies a ancient monument, rescued fromrubbist when the iron gates in the church-yai were put up. It represents a knight i complete armour, his legs extended, an resting upon a couchant dog. An embh matic figure represents a dragon, with h forked tail terminating a serpent’s heai Upon an altar-shaped monument in th chancel lies a full robed figure represen ing Hugh Bellot, successively bishop t Bangor and Chester, who died at Berst near this town, in 1596. He was a gre; linguist, and in conjunction with othc learned men he bore a distinguished pai in translating the old and new Testamen into English. Opposite is a monument b Roubiliac to mrs. Mary Myddleton, win died Ap. 8, 1747, aged 59, daughter of si Richard Myddleton of Chirk Castle, erect ed by Wm. Lloyd, esq. of Plas Power, he executor and devisee. This monument i calculated to arrest the attention of thi most indifferent observer. A most bean tiful female form, slightly covered, is ii the act of rising from a bursting tomb, a: if roused by a noise out of sleep. Con sternation is mingled with dismay in thi' countenance, yet is surprise and deligh most admirably mixed. The design i evidently taken from 1 Cor. xv. 52. “Tin trumpet shall sound, the dead shall be rais ed incorruptable.” The person this monu ment is intended to represent died a with ered woman, but she is arising full of youtl and beauty ; the figure most interesting and graceful, the attitude correct, and tilt drapery chaste. In a word, the toute cn semble of this effigy, is exquisitely fine and may justly be ranked with this artist’: statue of Eloquence to John Duke of Ar- gyle, in Westminster Abbey; his Handei in Vauxhall gardens, and Geo. 1, in the Senate-house at Cambridge. A Medallion at the end of the n. aisle, by the same ar¬ tist contains two profile likenesses, in strong relievo, of the rev. Tho. Myddleton, and Arabella Hacker, his wife. The drap¬ ery of this piece is excellent. At Wrex¬ ham, mr. Edward Randles, tho’ blind, is considered an excellent organist. He was a pupil, on the harp, of the celebrated Parry, and caught the energetic style of his master. His daughter Elizabeth at a very early age exhibited uncommon tal¬ ents for music. In the year 1800, at the 1349 WREXHAM. 1350 ige of 2 years, she was ushered into pub¬ ic notice ; at 3J years of age, she had the lonour of performing before the king and oyal family. At 6 years of age this ex- raordinary child could play the most com- ilicated music, and sing any thing laid >efore her at first sight. During the years 807 and 1808, her friends conducted her in a musical tour, through most of the eng- ish counties. In London she performed inder the auspices of the prince of Wales, ind the marchioness of Downshire, at the :oncert-rooms, Hanover-square. She re- ired for education, and has lately applied jer abilities to the harp. Two miles from Wrexham is Bersham ron furnace, belonging to messrs. J. and W. Wilkinson. This concern was first at- empted in 1761, but it proved unsuccess- ul, and it fell to mr. John Wilkinson to prosecute renewed plans, in which he succeeded wonderfully. The mechanism employed is exceedingly ingenious, and the works may be ranked among the first in the kingdom. Besides the smelting- furnace, there are several air furnaces for re-melting the pig iron, and casting it into cylinders, water pipes, boilers, pots, pans, of all sizes, cannon, and ball, &c. The cannon are cast solid, and bored like a wooden pipe. There are also forges for making the cast iron malleable, and a new- ly erected brass foundery. At a short dis¬ tance is a mine of lead ore, which is smelt, ed upon the spot. Iron-stone and coal are also plentiful in this neighbourhood. Not far from Minera Chapel, about 3m. n-e. from Wrexham is Brynbo-hall, where the late John Wilkinson, esq. had a farm of about 500 acres. The situation is bleak, and the soil naturally poor ; being a hun¬ gry clay upon a substratum of yellow rammel, or coal schist, which, in some places appear in the clay. By good tillage, and manuring with lime, at the rate of 10 tons per acre, it has greatly improved. He brought under cultivation 150 acres of wild heath. “ A crowned head had assisted him in making his compost ma¬ nures; OflFa, king of Mercia, had employed men to bring together the soil, and mr. Wilkinson went to the expense of lime, to be mixed with it. Large cavities, in the shape of inverted cones, were cut at convenient distances, in OfFa'sdyke, which runs across Brynbo farm. The cavities wevc filled up with limestone *tid coal, and then burnt. To Mold, (on the r. Acton-park, sir Fos¬ ter Cunliffe, bart., beyond is Gwersyllt park and mansion, and Rhyddys, on the r.) pass Cedgidog-bridge, 4Jm. ; Caer- c wrl e, 1 Jm. near which are some remains of it’s castle; Hope, £m.; 3£m. beyond is Hartsheath, Gwillim Lloyd Wardle, esq. This road runs for 2m. with Watts’ Dyke on the r. viz. from Hope to Plas newydd,) Within 2m. of Mold, are Leeswood, rev. Hope Wynne Eyton; and Lceswood hall, R. Garnons, esq. Within lm. on the 1. in the wood, is Tower, mrs. Wardle, and with¬ in jm. on the r. is Llwyn Egrin, t T. Jones, esq.) Mold, 6 m. To Ruabon, at £m. cross Watt’s Dyke, to Meltn Puleston, 1m. (Near, on the r. Ecclusham-hall, lm. beyond on the 1. is Erddig, P. Yorke, esq., a place rendered peculiarly beautiful by a rich wood over¬ hanging the banquetting-room, which stands upon the edgeof a murmuring brook skirting an extensive meadow. The walks through the wood and around this building are traced out with taste and elegance. There is a way across the park into a road by New hull to Ruabon. On the r. Hafod y liwch; a little further on the 1. Plus Gronow; 1 m. further some houses on the r. are called Aber derfin, the following succeed ; on the l. Hafody bwch, New-hall, on the 1. Penlre clawdd, on the r. Gardden- ludge, Edw. Rowland, Pen y gardden, D. Parry, esq. and further Bryn.) Ruabon, 4^m. To Oswestry, advance first to Melin Puleston, lm. (lm beyond on 1. Erddig , P. Yorke, esq ) lluabon, 4^m. On the 1. to Whitchurch, 18m.; on the r. to Llangol¬ len, 6m. (Within lm. on the r. Gardden Lodge, Edward Rowland, esq. and near it Pen y Gardden, D. Parry, esq.; and on 1. of Ruabon, H'ynnstay, VV. W. Wynne, bart.; and lm. beyond Ruabon is Plasma - doc, rev. Tho. Youde, beyond which, Plas Kynaslon, mrs. Price.) Cross the Dee to Whitehurst, toll bar, 2m. (on the r. to Llan- golU n, 6m.) Chirk, 2m. (On the 1. Brynk- inalt, lord Duncannon, and 1m. on r. of Chirk, Chirk Castle , the Misses Middleton. On advancing within a mile to Caer- cwrle, from Wrexham, the road leads through a romantic glen; after which oc¬ curs a bridge of one arch, accompanied with rustic cottages, and overshadowed with trees in a beautiful style. 135 L WREXHAM. WYE. 1352 About 4m. on the road to Bancor Is- coed is the village of Marchuiiel. It’s ele¬ gant little church, lately cased with stone, xvas in the year 1788 ornamented with a painted window by Egginton. It is divid¬ ed into 21 compartments containing the arms and crests of the Middletons and Yorkes, with rich borders. It is somewhat strange that such subjects should be thought proper ornaments for a church. The religion of the holy Jesus has no re¬ lation to blazonry and pride of birth. On his road to Gresford, mr. Pennant called at Acton, then the seat of his friend Ellis Yonge, esq. This place formerly be¬ longed to the Jefferies, a race which after running uncontaminated from an ancient stock, had the disgrace of producing in the 17th century the infamous George Jef¬ feries, chancellor of England. His portrait is a fine full length, by Kneller. To Holt, 6 j miles. Returned to Wrexham, thence to Caergwrle, 5^ miles, Bingley. — Ruabon, 5 miles, Wyndham. — Gresford, 4 miles, Skrine; Pennant. — Bangor Iscoed, 7 miles. — Ellesmere, 12 miles. — Chester, 11^ miles. — Ruthin, 16 miles. — Oswestry, 15 miles. — Mold, 11 miles. — Whitchurch, 16 miles. Erom Tinlein Abbey, Barber. - Monmonlh, Coxe. Mr. Gilpin begins his description of the Wye at Ross. From Goodrich Castle to Tintern Abbey, Coxe. - Hereford, Warner. THE WYE, rises near the summit of Plinlimmon, and divides the counties of Radnor and Brecon, passing through the middle of Herefordshire; thence be¬ coming a second boundary between Mon¬ mouthshire and Glocester, falls into the Severn below Chepstow. A DESCRIPTION OF THE SCENERY OF THE WYE, Chiefly from Ireland’s “ Picturesque Views.” Even in it’s earliest stage, upon the brow of Plinlimmon, this river is marked with features of the grand and sublime. The country for several miles is naked and dreary, one continued undulation of hills forming the distance, the river “ making sweet music with the enamelled stones.” At the distance of 6m. from it’s source, at a village called Cwmcrgar, the Wye re¬ ceives a considerable swell from the river Castal. Here is a wooden bridge called Pont rhyd garreg. Hence upon an easy as¬ cent, a tolerable road leads to the wretch¬ ed village of Uangcrng. The beauties of this situation can only be communicated by the pencil, the power of language is inadequate. Three miles below Llanger- rig, in a s. direction, the river Darnel empties itself into the Wye. Pursuing the course of the river, the Nanerth rocks in an extent of nearly 3m. form a beautiful screen to it’s n. bank. At this spot the Wye takes an easy bend, and the ascending road, girts the immense hills enriched with spreading oaks and underwood. Beneath, the gentle river Marteg loses it’s current in the broader channel of the Wye. Dis¬ tant 3m. is Rhaiadyr Gwy. Three miles further the Wye receives a considerable supply of water from the riyers Elan and Clarwen, which unite at the distance of 4m. from their conflux with our river. Be¬ low this a copious stream called the Ither, (which in it’s course receives theDulas and Cammaron ) makes a considerable addition to the Wye. From the brow of a hill about 2m. before we reach the town of Buallt, the scenery is peculiarly beautiful, the river spreading itself intoa bay, exhibiting many naked rocks i n it’s bed and agreeable breaks. The river Irfon falls into the Wye about £m. above the town, receiving at a short distance from it’s junction, the brook called the Wheffrey, which rises up¬ on the Breconshire hills. Within lm. of the bridge of Buillt, the small river Dcho- nog empties itself into the Wye. From the ferry a little below, a beautiful reach of the river terminates in a view of the small remains of Aberedwy castle, of which no history has been traced. It’s remains con¬ sist of little more than a stone wall, at the extremity of which are the fragments of 2 round towers. These rude specimens of art are finely contrasted by the adjoining wonderful productions of nature. There is an immense range of rocks running parallel with the river, exhibiting the mo 6 t strange and fantastic forms. It presents to the mind the idea of towers and castles rising out of luxuriant copses, and under a declining sun a scene is presented worthy a Salvador, or of his rival John Mortimer. Near this charming spot, the river Edoa falls into our river. In passing on a simi- 135:1 W 1 ar kind of rocky scenery occurs Llan- jocrf, the seat of — Edwards, esq. Hence 'ass through a wood, the breaks of which illow glimpses of the river, till the village Saoains is arrived at, distant lm. where it :akcs the form of an extensive bay. At Glasbury the scene may be contrasted with :hose at Aberedwy and Builll; all a- tound wearing a placid air; the river also flowing in a tranquil stream. In the midst of this rich and beautiful valley, an ele¬ gant stone bridge of 7 arches was thrown across the river, about the year 1783, by the family of Edwards, under the direction of their father, the architect of Pont y Pridd. In the winter, however of 1794 the bridge was totally destroyed by a tor¬ rent of ice which poured down after the long frost in the beginning of 1795. Ap¬ proaching Hay, pass it’s small church, si¬ tuated upon a high bank of the river. The purple hue of the Black Mountains, gener¬ ally affords a good hack-ground to the scenery around the bridge. These moun¬ tains extend 14 or 15m. towards a place called Monmouth Cap, about 8m. from Abergavenny. On quittin Hay, the Wye receives aconsiderable body of water from the river Dtilas, across which is a stone bridge of one arch. Thus assisted, our river here becomes navigable in the win¬ ter season. Hence, amid a profusion of rich and beautiful scenery the river quits Radnorshire, at a place called lihyds- pencc. The winding and mazy course of the Wye, in about 2m. brings us to Whitney. Then passing several beautiful villages reach Willersley, in the vicinity of which the extensive range of Mcrbidge hills affords from their summits, grand and extensive views of the surrounding coun¬ try. Brubury’s Scar, also in this neighbour¬ hood, is another grand object: it’s princi¬ pal attractions are the bold and majestic roughness of it’s form, which contrast beautifully with the views, upon the bank of the Wye. Our river glides in an easy course towards Bradwardinc. This village stands upon an easy ascent, on the bank of the Wye, and appears in a happy point of view above the bridge, the n. side of the river rises considerably and is richly cloth¬ ed with shrubbery. This place gave birth and name to the celebrated Thomas Brad, wardine, archbishop of Canterbury, who from his deep erudition was called doctor Profundus. Passing with the stream along a rich and fertile country, reach Mocafs Court, the seat of sir Geo. Cornwall, barl. pleasantly situated upon an eminence, on the s. bank. The ancient name of this place is Moches, which was the property of saint Gulhlach, in the city of Hereford. The ancient house stood below the site of the present, which is a modern structure, partly built from the ruin of Bredwardine castle. In descending towards Hereford pass a variety of elegant villas, rich in situation, and happily selected : among these Belmont , the seat of dr. Mathews, is peculiarly worthy of attention. Quitting Hereford, the Wye bends it’s course round a point of land for 2m. when wc are again brought almost as near to the town as when wc quitted it. In passing further dow n, the river continues to take circuitous windings, but assumes an evener surface. At 6m. from Hereford the Wye receives the Lug, which is one of the 3 principal rivers in this county : it originates in the mountains on the n e. side of Radnorshire; and running e. through Herefordshire'to Leominster, takes a s-e. direction. About £m. distant from the Wye this river runs through the pleasing village of Mordiford, adding much to the picturesque scenery of the place. Upon the e. end of the church is represented in plaister, an enormous dragon or serpent. The country people say that some centuries ago a terrible dra¬ gon was slam near this place. Nor should we be surprised at the wonderful relations they give respecting it, for even the pro¬ found Camden thus writes. “ Near the conflux of the Lug and the Wye, e. a hill which they call Marclay hill, did in the year 1575, rouse itself as it were out of sleep, and for 3 days together, shoving it’s prodig¬ ious body forward with a horrible roar¬ ing noise, and overturning every thing in it’s way, raised itself (to the great astonish¬ ment of the beholders) to a higher place.” Upon a hill adjoining the village, a large stone house has been erected by rar, Here¬ ford, which commands a most extensive view of the surrounding country. About lm. below Mordiford pass a large mansion belonging to the duke of Norfolk, called llolm-Lacy, formerly the seat of the an¬ cient family of the Scudamores. On this site stood an abbey for premonstraicnsian canons, founded by Wm. Fitswain in the beginning of the reign of Henry 3. [see 647.] This building commands a beautiful 1355 WYE 1356 prospect on the opposite side of the river, called Fownhope. Among the houses scattered upon this richly diversified hill are those of mr. Lechmere and mr. Pur- chase. A little below the next bend of the river, a range of hills called Capler hills, form a rich screen to the n. bank of the Wye. Near Brookhampton upon Cap¬ ler hill is the remain of a very large square camp called Woldbury, doubly trenched. It’s dimensions are inconsiderable in width, but is near ^m. long. In 1792, 3 acres of these hills fell into the Wye and altered it’s course. On the 1. at Aram- stone, is a fine view of the village of Kings Caple, situated amid a beautiful assem¬ blage of woods. Below, upon the oppo¬ site bank is flarewood, the residence of the Hoskinses. This place forms part of the forest of Harewood, in which Ethel- wold, king Edgar’s minister, had a castle. It was here that Mason fixed the place for his drama of Elfrida. and thus describes the scene before us. “ How nobly does this venerable wood, gilt with the glories of the orient sun, embosom yon fair mansion! the soft air salutes me with most cool and terap’ratc breath; and as I tread, the flow’r besprinkled lawn sends up a gale of fragrance. 1 should guess, if e’er content deign’d visit mortal clime, this was her place of dearest residence.” Hence, amid a rich and woody country, reach the pleasant village of Selleck: it’s church is of singular construction. On the opposite side o( the river below Hare- wood, is a fine grove of trees called Caple Tump, where an annual festival waswont to be held from all the neighbouring plac¬ es. Abnot 4m. below Selleck occurs a most beautiful and luxuriant view of Ross. On the approach, a fine amphitheatre of trees called Ashwood, skirts the s. bank of the Wye. The hill to the r. of the town is called the Chase, and that on the 1. Pen- yard wood, upon which formerly stood a castle, said to have been destroyed in the civil wars. About lm. below Ross Wilion Castle first attracts attention, situated upon the margin of the Wye. [see 555.] An assemblage of rich and wooded scenery forms the leading feature. The key stones of Wilton bridge lock curiously one into the other. Near this place a dealer in corn has erected a pleasing residence which he has skirted with willows. At about ‘2m. below the bridge the admirer of the grand in landscape will be highly gra¬ tified after ascending the hill in the high road to Monmouth, whence at a place cal¬ led Peucraig, is a very magnificent view. The distant church of Ross, it’s neigh¬ bouring woods and hills, the meandering stream of the Wye, all combine to form the fascinating scene. Amid a variety of en¬ chanting views, which the distance from one bend of the river to another produces, Goodrich Custle, upon the summit of a bold promontory, clothed with wood, pre¬ sents it’s aspiring battlements Abont lm. below the castle is the remain of Goodrich Priory. From the ascent, approaching the village of Goodrich, a rich and extensive view presents itself across the Forest of Dean, whence llurer-dcan Church happily breaks upon the eye. Here the Wye in a long and serpentine reach, appears in per¬ spective, affording a pleasing termination to the scenery : it’s banks are screened on the s. by an extensive coppice wood, and on the n. by fertile meadows rising towards Bishop’s Wood, from which a considerable iron furnace in this vicinity derives it’s name. From Lidbrvok large quantities of coal are sent to Ross and Hereford. The stone quarries in this neighbourhood sup. plied materials for building the bridge at Bristol. Passing down the river, the next object which attracts notice is Courtjield, the seat of the Vaughans, [see col, 554.] The picturesque village of Welsh Bicknor, presents itself in a rich valley on the r, bank of the Wye, happily overshaded by a thicket of woods, ranged in a grand and circular sweep. These are called Hawk r wood and Packwood, extending about lm. along the bank of the river. The village church and parsonage-house, group in a form peculiarly beautiful and interesting. In the body of the church, fronting the read¬ ing-desk, is a cumbent whole-length fe- malefigurewellsculptured in adarkishcol- oured stone. T radi tion says it represents the countess of Salisbury, who nursed Henry 5, in this neighbourhood. A little below, the Wye is bounded on the opposite shore by a long range of hills clothed with verdure and diversified by a rich and broken soil of a warm and reddish hue. Approaching the foot of Coldweil rocks, a scene sublime and majestic is presented. The grand pro¬ minences are overhung with richly varied tufts of oak and shrubs, occasionally con¬ trasted and relieved by deep and shadowy dells, formed by the various lime-kilns od 357 WYE. 1358 ieir surface. Close to the river, beneath ic shade of a dark wood near Coldwell, apears a Monumental Stone, to a young lan who perished in the river. The in. rription informs the passenger that his ame was John Whitehead. Wane, who was nfortunately drowned nearthe spot while athing, even in sight of his parents, bioth- r, and sisters, on Sep. the 14th 1804, in he 16th year of his age. It expresses that iis parents became resigned to the will of Jod, under the reflection that he possess- :d the virtues of truth, innocence, filial >icty,and fraternal affection. The monu- nent is professedly erected as a beacon to warn the unwary, and it contains ideas of deep regret that the means used by the humane society were not known when the accident happened, but that for the benefit of others we are informed that an apparatus with directions are now lodged in the church of Coldwell. The deceased was born at Oporto, Feb. 14, 1789, son of James Warre, of London and of Somerset¬ shire, merchant. The epitaph is long and badly written. Here mr. Ireland quitted the barge to ascend these majestic rocks. The task tho’ arduous should not, he says, deter the traveller from pursuing this course, as he will av-nd a dull and unin¬ teresting passage upon the water of 3m. From the summit, Goodrich Castle breaks suddenly on the eye. The New H ear and adjoining waterfall, with the surrounding heathy hills afford a rich combination of objects. The village of Whitechurch in the centre of the vale beneath, with the vast hills beyond, give a termination to this reach of the river. At Whitchurch is a second ferry called llunston' s-rope ; which, tho’ 7m. distant from that at Goodrich, by water, is only lm. by land. At the bot¬ tom of Symond’s gate the company usually disembark, mount the summit, and de¬ scending ou the other side, join the boat at the New Wear. From the top of Symond’s Gate, which is not less than 2000 feet in height above the surface of the water, the spectator enjoys a singular view of the numerous mazes of the Wye, and looks down on the river, watering each side of the narrow and precipitous peninsula up¬ on which it stands. Descending to the New Wear by the same kind of rugged course as that by which the Coldwell rocks arc attained, the fatigue is amply repaid from an abundance of beautiful views, which appear through the breaks in the rocks or openings of the woods. Mr. Cox did not clamber to this summit, preferring the navigation, because he was unwilling to lose the beauties of the ever shifting scenery, and a succession of home scenes upon the banks beneath, to the most bound¬ less expanse of prospect from above. A little below the weir the river scenery is terminated by what is called king Arthur’s plain, or Doward-hills. To the embolden¬ ed traveller the summits of these hills, af¬ ford ample variety of the beautiful and sublime. At a spot adjoining to the wood upon the extremity of this hill is a cavern bearing the name King Arthur’s Hall. Many labulous and wonderful tales have been attached to this hall; the truth is nei¬ ther more nor less than this, that it was once a rich mine of iron ore, which sup¬ plied the contiguous furnaces. A detach¬ ed cluster of rocks called St. Martin’s, or the Three Sistci s, skirt the river in passing down, near which, at a short reach called St. Martin’s Well, the stream is supposed to have a greater depth of water than in any other part. At the extremity of this reach, from a beautiful vale, king Arthur’s plain again presents itself, assuming a cas¬ tellated form. About 2m. short of Mon¬ mouth, Hadnock-house, the residence of the rev. dr. Griffin, demands attention. It is situated upon the edge of the forest of dean, and stands upon the brow of a hill, com¬ manding a delightful view of the meander¬ ing Wye. Hence a road runs parallel with the river, along the base of the hills, to Monmouth. A distant view of the bridge and town of Monmouth soon appears, with the solitary church of Dixon u^'on the opposite bank of the river. From Mon¬ mouth mr. Ireland made an excursion to Raglan Castle, [see those places.] Re¬ turning, he resumed his passage down the Wye. The retrospect was pleasing; in¬ cluding the spire of the church, the town, bridge, and surrounding scene. The hills opposite to,Monmouth, are called the Ky- min Rocks, the summit of which is crown¬ ed by the pavilion. This spot commands a most extensive and diversified view. A- bout lm. further is an immense large rock called the buck Stone. It is situated upon the extreme edge of the hill, standing up* on a point so equipoised, that by the ajv plication of a small force it may be shakeo* Approaching the junction of lire Monnow 1359 WYE. 1360 with the Wye, the side scenes of the latter increase in richness both of wood and ver¬ dure, with pleasing breaks in the distance. A little below this point, a small river called the Trothy unites with the Wye, flowing near a respectable mansion called Troy house, possessed by the duke of Beau¬ fort, to whom it descended from sir Cha. Somerset, [see 919.] Amid rich, beau¬ tiful, and fertile, tho’ hilly scenery, reach lledbrook, which separates Monmouth from Glocestershire, where is a manu¬ factory of iron and tin. Half a m. below this place the Wye receives a small stream called Whitebrook. Beyond this spot the river forms a grand sweep, fiovving into an abyss, between 2 ranges of lofty hills, thickly overspread with woods. Atabout the distance of a mile stands St. Brievcls, upon an eminence above the river. The remains of this castle indicate that it has been of considerable extent and of great strength. It was builtby Miles earl of Here¬ ford in the reign of Henry 1. The custody of St. Brievels, with the Forest of Dean, was granted to John de Monmouth, in the 18th year of king John. The earl of Berkeley is the present constable, and the duke of Beau¬ fort, under whose direction the castle is kept in repair, is lord of the manor. The vv. front of the tower is used as a prison. Hence the views ol the surrounding coun¬ try are extensive and beautiful. Return¬ ing to the boat, pass Big’s l-Vear near which stands the house of general Rooke, whose father captured Gibralter; and on the op¬ posite side Pilson House, appears in the back ground. Through a range of beau¬ tiful scenery pass the extraordinary village of Llandogu, scattered among trees upon the sid(?ot a hill. Here the river forms a smooth bay, over which the vessels glide or lay moored to take their freight. The undulating hills called the Hudnell's, form a beautiful back-ground to this charming scene. A little below is Cadithill Weir, whence drop pleasantly down the stream to another village called Brook’s Weir, half way from Monmouth to Chepstow. Goods from the former place are here shipped and conveyed in larger vessels to Bristol. The river, in an easy meandering course, soon introduces a view the most picturesque, including the splendid and very elegant ruins of Tintern Abbey, which appear with great effect from the river. In ap¬ proach i ug this venerable remain, the steepy hills, the hanging woods, the rolling stream, the nodding ruin, the surviving monuments of fallen grandeur and beauty in decay; the opening vacancy, the still¬ ness and retirement, all aid the enthusiasm of the spectator, who forgets for a moment that he is connected with the busy world. Who is there that does not regret the wreck and rapacity produced by the revolution of opinion, and the delolation here made by the first Henry, who under the pretence of religious zeal, displayed the ravag¬ ing arm of an insensible barbarian. The small gothic gate at the entrance, was evidently an adjunct of the abbey. Having passed much beautiful scenery nearly in the style of that at Tintern, the e. bank of the Wye presents a screen of rocks not un¬ like those of Coldwell, called the Thom and Black Cliffs. The Wye is here disturb, ed by the influx of the tide, and marshy land appears upon it’s shores. The rocks which terminate the grounds at Pierce- FiELuare next approached. They are 12 in number, bearing the names of the apos- tics; a thirteenth is denominated St. Peter’s thumb. They resemble the bastions of acas- tle, and return a surprising reverberation of sound. A little lower pass the precipi¬ tate rock called the Lover's Leap. A cir¬ cular bend of the river next discovers the noble ruin of Chepstow Castle, placed upon the highest part of an immense per¬ pendicular rock. This majestic remain is from this point highly interesting. The an¬ cient gothic entrance, partly in ruins ; the irregular breaks and prominencies in the form of the building, which is a mixture ofthe norman and saxonstyles,arein many parts overgrown with large clumps of ivy and variegated shrubs; sometimes beauti¬ fully clustered among the fragments of the castle, and again falling down and enrich¬ ing the white and awful cliff below. The adjoining bridge is calculated to add to the general effect of the landscape, [see 264.] From Chepstow Piercefield may very conveniently be visited; a spot to which nature has been uncommonly profuse, not only in the disposition of the beautiful slopes and waving lawns which form the grounds, but in the extensive and diversi¬ fied scenery which strikes the eye from every point, [see 1062.] Mr. Ireland in passing still further down the stream found that the high impending screen of rocks on each side the river, rendered the passage 1361 WYE. 13S2 delightful. Among these he noticed particu¬ larly the Red Rocks, and Hardwick Cliff, as peculiarly attractive. In the latter large apertures have been dug, extending 40 or 50 yards from the entrance. In this vicini¬ ty isa remarkable line well of water, which gives the name Thornwell to a beautiful range of woods, adjoining the termination iof Hardwick cliff. At Ewan’s rocks, about a mile below, the Severn breaks exten sively to view ; but at the conflux of the Wye, or in the vicinity of Beachley (the old passage-house) it is seen to greater ad¬ vantage. The distant hills of Glocester- shire and Somersetshire, beautifully inter¬ secting each other in varied tints, while intervening castles, villages, and mansions of the wealthy on the opposite shore, rich¬ ly diversify the whole. The distance com¬ posed of Walton-hills, about 10m. below, hreaks harmoniously, forming a happy ter¬ mination across King’s road and the Bris¬ tol channel. Hence groups of vessels con¬ stantly moored near the mouth of the Bris¬ tol Avon, tho’ at the distance of 3m. are perfectly distinguishable. Mr. Coxe appears to have been much gratified in performing the navigation of the Wyc. “ The Banks,” he says, “for the most part rise abruptly from the edge of the water, and are clothed with forests broken into cliffs. In some places they approach so near, that the river occupies the whole intermediate space, and nothing is seen but wood, rocks, and water; in others, they alternately recede, and the eye catches an occasional glimpse of ham¬ lets, ruins, aud detached buildings, partly seated on the margin of the stream and partly scattered on the rising grounds. The general character of the scenery, however, is wildness and solitude; and if we ex¬ cept the populous district of Monmouth, no river perhaps flows for so long a course through a well cultivated country, the banks of which exhibit so few habita¬ tions.” Convenient vessels, adapted for holding 8 persons besides the boatmen, provided with an awning, may be had at Hereford and Monmouth. Mr. Coxe dwells much on the description of the Cold- well Rocks and Symond's Gale or Vat. The latter is not less than 2000 feet above the water. The river here makes a singular turn ; for tho’ the direct distance by land is not more than 600 yards, the course by water exceeds 4m. In continuing the navigation of the Wyc to Tintern Abbey, mr. Coxe porticularly notices the romantic village of Rcdbrook, the church and castle of St. Bnevel's, the beautifully situated hamlet of Ltandogu, and Brook’s Weir. At the latter place the river exhibits the ap¬ pearance of trade and activity, and is the point where the maritime and internal navigations form a junction. Vessels from 30 to 90 tons, from Bristol and the Somer¬ setshire ports, frequently lie here, waiting for the tide, which seldom flows to any considerable height above this place. The usual practice is to go from Here¬ ford to Ross in a carriage, and thence in a boat to Chepstow ; but the beautiful scen¬ ery on the banks of the Wye is omitted. Mr. Warner thinks there is no mode of seeing the numerous and varied beauties of this river so satisfactorily as by tracing it’s sinuosities on foot; and the following is the route he pursued. Crossed the Wye at Castle-green, and struck through the grounds and farm-yard of Rotkerv.as, the elegant family mansion of C. Bodinham, esq. Dyncdor hill lay before, and the roman encampment, which receives it’s name from it, on the 1. Hence he took a fare¬ well view of Hereford and it’s neighbour¬ hood, the adjoining hills, and the black mountain, that striking boundary to the n vv., and enjoyed a diversified and sweep¬ ing prospect to the opposite point. Our approach to Hum-Lacy was by a gradual descent of nearly lm. through a tich pro¬ ductive country. This is one of the many houses belonging to his grace the duke of Norfolk. The older part of it displays the awkward style of Elizabeth’s time; the more modern part was built about the be¬ ginning of last century. It’s situation is quiet and retired, commanding a beautiful but confined view in front. Horn-Lacy was for some centuries in the ancient fami¬ ly of the Scudamores, whose ancestor, St. Scudamore, (so called from the scutum a- moris divini, which he took for his arms) attended William the conqueror in his ex¬ pedition to England. Philip Scudamore, a descendant, settled here in the 14th cen¬ tury. This was the principal seat of the family till the year 1716, when the last viscount Scudamore dying, the estate vest¬ ed in his only child, a daughter. By Charles Fitzroy Scudamore, esq. (her second hus¬ band) she also had a daughter, to whom the property descended. This lady married 1363 WYE. 1364 the present duke of Norfolk in 1771, and added Hom-Lacy to the princely domains of that nobleman. It was the last viscount Scudamore who rebuilt the greatest part of the manor-house. He was the friend of Pope, who frequently woed the muses here. The good taste of the duke of Nor¬ folk, allows the mansion to remain unal¬ tered. The family portraits, and elaborate carvings by Gibbons, but little inferior to those at Petworth and Chatsworth, are still a part of their venerable ornaments. The apartments are decorated with many valuable paintings, by Vandyck, Jansen, Holbein, and other artists. Here is a very capital picture by Hamilton, of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba; and Louis 13 and his queen, by Beaubrun, cotemporary with Vandyck. In the cabinet is a sketch of the great lord Stafford, in crayons, from Van¬ dyck, by Pope. The grounds at Hom-Lacy are very pleasant. The old garden, on the s. front, was formed on the model of Hampton Court, in Middlesex, and is a very spacious terrace. The yew-trees, origin¬ ally clipped into grotesque shapes, have been left to regain their foliage. Ascend¬ ing the hill into the park, the scenery be¬ comes more noble, and the landscape more expanded. From the upper part of it are commanding prospects of the Glocester- shire hills, the black mountains in Mon¬ mouthshire and Brecon; those over Here¬ ford and Bradwardine, with Robin-Hood’s Butts; and the Clee-hills in Shropshire. Near the parsonage-house is a remarkable Pear Tree, covering nearly a % of an acre, and forming an orchard of itself, having yielded for many years from 12 to 16 hogs¬ heads of perry. It is accounted for as fol¬ lows. A large branch having broke by the wind, it’s head fell to the ground, the butt still adhering to the trunk. Some time af¬ ter it appeared to have struck into the ground, taken root, and formed a scion. Willing to humour this lucus naturas, the incumbent gave directions for other layers to be made from the tree in a similar man¬ ner, which became rooted and bear fruit. Opposite Hom-Lacy at the bottom of an extensive meadow, is a ferry to the village of Fownhope. Passing this place about jm. to the n. is an ancient camp; and twice that distance to the n. is another, occupy¬ ing the summit of an eminence called Cap- ler-hill; the latter camp is doubly trench- ed-and called Woldbury. This hill is finely wooded; the prospects from it are exten¬ sive and rich ; among which the vaga¬ rious Wye forms a striking feature. Here the river makes a capricious turn to the s. and leads the pedestrian, who follows it’s banks, a circuitous walk of Cm. to Fuuiley Court, a venerable mansion of the time of queen Elizabeth, and anciently belonged to sir John Kyrle, an ancestor to the “ Man of Ross.” To the village of How-Caple, the direct path is 2m. Inclosed by a reach of the river below Fawley, is Ingeston- house, an old and spacious brick mansion, long the residence of the Hoskyns family. On the banks of the Wye, nearly opposite to Ingeston, at a place called Hole in the Wall, are the remains of an ancient building, the site is now partly occupied by many cottages. About lm. lower down, on the Wye, is another of the ancient camps which form a chain upon the eminences in this part of the country. It occupies the summit of Eaton hill; the entrenchments are very perfect and deep ; the area is cul¬ tivated. A farm-house at Eaton displays vestiges of an ancient mansion; the ground about it is called the Park of Eaton. Op¬ posite to Ross, on the w. bank of the Wye, arethe ruins of Wilton Castle. Goodrich- C astle, the ancient family seat of the Tal¬ bots, rises upon the opposite bank of the river, at the distance of 4m. from Wilton. Proceeding to Hensham Ferry a consider¬ able sweep of the river is left, which con¬ tains no features particularly interesting. Again crossing the Wye, you turn imme¬ diately into a path through the meadows on it’s banks. Here the scene becomes truly majestic. The Coldwell rocks, rising to a towering height on the r. alternately start through the thick woods which man¬ tle their sides in lofty pointed crags ; and display broad masses of their surface, re¬ lieved by creeping lichens, and diversified with mineral tinges. Hence mr. Warner’s course led him up a steep and winding ascent to the summit of Symond’s rock, a stupendous precipice. Hence the river, just crossed, with it’s contiguous 4 scenery, appears spread beneath. In an opposite direction are seen the New Weir and iron¬ works ; a short and capricious turn of the river, the Howard rocks, and a huge inso- lated crag, little inferior to the. cliff from which it is seen. At the New Weir it is again necessary to cross the river to follow it’s meanders. On the r. for more than £m. 1360 WYE. 1365 rontinues a bold steep bank covered with beech-trees. The Doward rocks consti¬ tuting a very grand feature of the Wye, now begin to open, opposite to which is a fine echo, from near a spreading beech tree, in the middle of the meadow. This path leads to the turnpike-road from Ross to Mon¬ mouth, which runs parallel with the riv¬ er for some distance commanding a glori¬ ous view of the Wye. Passing the bridge at Monmouth over the Wye, and turning into the meadows near it’s margin, at the distance of little better than ^m. the river makes another grand sweep to the r., and assumes a new character. Dismissing it’s rocks and precipices, it rolls through lofty sloping hills thickly covered with waving woods. All here is solemn, still, and soothing. An agreeable variety, however, soon occurs, at the picturesque village of Rcdbrook, a busy scene, enlivened by ac¬ tive industry in various forms. tVhitc- brouk, another hamlet, ornamented with the house of general Rooke, presently suc¬ ceeds; to the 1. of which, on a command¬ ing elevation, is seen the village of Si. Brievel’s, with it’s church and castle. The singular village of Llandogo, which next opens, is disposed upon a lofty hill, the indented side of which is mantled with deep woods, with many small cottages in¬ termingled. The river next takes a sharp turn to the 1. to Caerdithtl, in a descent of several feet in the distance of £m. At the populous village of Brookswenr, the Severn hoys ascend to receive the lading of the Wye barges ; where mr. Warner left, for a short time, the banks of the river, to wind up a narrow lane for another milq. He then attained the summit of a hill, from which a prospect appeared of extraordi¬ nary richness and variety. Behind, the fairy region of Llandogo, the busy village of Brookswear, deeply embosomed in wood ; and the crystalline river, studded with vessels. In front, the village of Tin- tern with the diversified scenery of the dale in which it stands, and the lofty ruins of it’s abbey. Descending the hill, and a- gain crossing the Wye, mr. Warner pro¬ ceeded to the Beaufort Arms, which, lie says, is a comfortable inn. To Monmouth, Barber; Gilpin. — Goodrich Castle, Barber; Coxe. — Tintern, from Hereford, by the banks of the Wye to Wilton Castle, 20 miles; i. e. to Good¬ rich castle, 3; New Weir, 2; Doward, 2; Monmouth, 3; Redbrook, 2; Llandogo, 4; Tintern,4- YSTRADFLUR, see Strata Florida. PLACES where the Tourists, whose Routes have been given, began, anil where they ended. Mr. Pennant commenced his Tour in Wales, at Downing, his native place and resi¬ dence, and ended at Caerwys. His journey to Snowdon was made from the same place and concluded at Ahergeley. His third excursion was also from his own fire¬ side, and his account ends with Caer Caradoc, near Church-Stretton, Shropshire. Mr. Wyndham entered the Principality by the New Passage, to Chepstow ; proceeded to Tintern, &c. and returning by way of Monmouth revisited Chepstow. Mr. Aikin began his Tour at Shrewsbury, proceeded to Llan y mynach, &c., and returned to Llangollen. Mr. Skrine commenced his Tour in S. Wales at Glocester, and ended at Hay. He entered on his Tour in N. Wales at Shrewsbury and concluded at Montgomery. The Rev. R. Warner began both his first and second Walks in Wales, at the New Passage : he ended his first at Chepstow, his second at Swansea. The Rev. W. Coxe’s Picture of Monmouthshire begins at the New Passage, and ends at Piercefield. The Rev. W. Binglcy commenced his Tour in N. Wales at Chester, and ended at Shrewsbury. The Rev. J. Evans began his Tour through N. Wales at Shrewsbury and ended at Chirk ; through S. Wales at Bristol and ended at Beachley-ferry, near Chepstow. Mr. Barber commenced his Tour in S. Wales at Bristol and ended at Glocester. Mr. Hutton began his principal Tour at the Wrekin, and ended at Mold. Mr. Malkin began his S. VVales, at Cowbridgc, and ended at Llanbithian, near the same place. Mr. Donovan commenced his excursions in S. Wales, at Bristol, and terminated them at Tenby. Mr. Manby made an excursion from Clifton near Bristol, through the counties of Monmouth, Glamorgan, and Brecon. ^Mr. Gilpin set out from Manchester, making his first remarks on Nortlnvich, and ended at Shrewsbury; but in his route is omitted the lake of Bala, the vale of Fes- tiniog, and the mountain of Cader Idris. Wfc commence with mr.Lipscomb at Worcester and proceed with him through S. Wales and the adjoining counties of England to Birmingham, on his return to London. Mr. Meyrick's Cardiganshire, does not assume the form of a tour but is a well digest¬ ed History. Mr. Jones’s Breconshire, is on the plan of the former. Mr. Fenton begins his Historical Tour at Fishguard, and ends at the same place. INDEX TO THE PLANTS The numbers, after the generic and specific names refer to descriptions, in Dr. Hull’s “ British Flora, 2d edit. 1808” (the most portable and com¬ plete Linncan arrangement which has hitherto ap¬ peared). The duration of the plants is expressed by letters; a. means annual, b. biennial, p. perennial, s. shrub, t. tree : the months of flowering,'by num- beis, e. g. Jan. by 1, June by 6, &c. The english Ad.tanth.um capilhts veneris, 243, p. 5 — 7, true maiden hair, 434. Adoxa moschatellina, 117, p. 4, 5, tuber¬ ous moschatel, 323, 452. /.Ecidium fttscum, 415, fungi, 523. Agrostis minimia, 23, early knappia, see Knappia agrostidea. — vulgaris, 22, p. 7, fine bent grass, 1203. Aira caespitosa, 23, p. 6 — 8 , turfy hair- grass, 244. -praecox, 24, a. 5, 6 , early hair grass, 446. Ajugaalpina, 169, p. 7, alpine bugle, 735. Alfaleur pren, 1048. Alisma natans, 105, p. 6 , 7, floating water plantain, 81, 465. -ranunculoides, 105, p. 6 —9, small water plantain, 483. Anagallis tenella, 63, p. 6 — 8 , pimpernel, 63. Anchusa sempervirens, 59, p. 5 —7, ever- grown alkanet, 101, 523. Andromeda polifolia, 121, s. 5, 6 , wild rosemary, 319, 447. Anethum iceniculum, 85, b. 7, 8 , common fennel, 398, 400, 756, 1150. Anthemis nobilis, 246, p. 8 , 9, common chamomile, 575. Anthericum serotinum, 96, p. 6 , mountain saffron, 323, 719,1203, 1204, 1208. Anthyllis vulneraria, 21 1 , p. 5— 8 , ludney vetch, 37, 300, 400, 463, 756, 817. Antirrhinum cymbalana, 182, p. 5—10, ivy leaved snapdragon, 908. -orontium, 183, a. 7, 8 , less snapdragon, 95. Apiumgraveolens, 86 , b. 8 , smallage, wild celery, 60. Arabis stricta, 197, p. 5, Bristol rock cress, 221 . Arbutus alpina, 121, s. 5, mountain straw¬ berry tiee, 245. Arenaria marina, 130, a. 6 , 7, sea spurry sandwort, 97, 291. -pcploides, 129, p. 6 , 7, sea sand¬ wort, 97,129, 300, 400, 756. — -rubra, var. (3- 130, a. 6 — 8 , pur¬ ple sandwort, 97, 661. ———— tenufolia, 130,a. 6,7, fine leaved sandwort, 300. ■-- verna, 130, p. 5— 8 , vernal sand¬ wort, 323, 399, 523, 654, 715, 719. names next occur, and the figures at the ends of the lines refer to the columns of this work, where their situation may he found. Dr. Hull’s Cryptogamia class, intended to form the 2d vol. of the 2d edition of his Arrangement is not yet published; the first edition is therefore referred to for a description of the plants belonging to that class, the names of which are distinguished by italics. Airacristata,23, p. 7, 8,crested hair-grass, 446. Arabis hispida, 197, p. 6 —7, alpine rock cress, 1203. Arenaria verna, 130, p. 5—8, vernal sand¬ wort, 1203, 1208. Aria flexuosa, 23, p. 6 — 8 , heath hair- grass, 715. Artimissa absinthium, 238, p. 8 , worm¬ wood, 1192. -maritima, 238, p. 8 , drooping flowered sea vvormw’ood, 60. Arunda arenaria, 35, p. 7, sea reed, 400, 756, 866 , 1150. •-colorata, 35, p. 7, canary reed grass, 465. -phragmites,35, p. 7, common reed, 185. Aspidium lonchitis, 1203. --thelypteris, 715. Asplenium nigrum, 242, p. 4— 10 , black maiden hair, 715. - rula muraria, 242, p. 6 —10, w hite maidenhair, 715. - scolopendrium, 241, p. 8 —10, hart's tongue, 452. - septentriunale, 241, p. 7, forked maiden hair, 661, 1203. - -chide, 241, p. 6 —10, green spleenwort, 323, 720, 1203. Aster tripolium, 242, p. 8 , 9, seastarwort, 1150. Astragulushypoglottis, 215, p. 6 ,7, purple mountain milk vetch, 260, 291, 576. -uralensis, 215, p. 7, hairy moun¬ tain milkwort, 226. Atnplex porticulacoidcs, 306, s. 7, S, shrubby orachc, or sea purslane, 60. -laciniata, 306, a. 7, 8 , frosted sea orache, 60. -literaljs, 307, a. 8,9, grass orache 60. Atvopa belhdona, 69, p. 6 — 8 , deadly nightshade, 434, 605. Avcna pubescens, 34, p. 6 , downy oat, 452. Beta maritima, 75, sea beet, 60. lilechnum spirant, 243, p. 7—9, rough spleenwort, 723. Borago officinalis, 60, b. 6 —S, com. bo¬ rage, 398, 400, 575. Brassica monehsis, see Sisymbrium rno- nensc. 1372 INDEX TO THE PLANTS. UZI Brassica oleracea, 29S, b. 5, 6, seacabbage, 400, 420, 5'To. Bryum alpinum, 254, p. 4—6, 465. -- verlicillatum, 259, p.4—8, 91. Bulbocodium vernum, see Anthericum. Bunias cakile, 193, sea rocket, 60. Butomus umbellatus, 118, flowering rush, 60, 792. Byssusjolithus, 308, p. 1—12, 653. Campanula glomerata, 65, p. 7,8, cluster¬ ed bell-flower, 452. • -hederacea, 65, p. 5—8, ivy¬ leaved bell-flower, 326, 715, 804. — -hybrida, 65, a. 6—8, com.bell flower, 502. ---latifolia, 65, p. 7, 8, giant bell flower, 654. ■—*--— rapunculus, 64, b. 7, 8, ram- pion bell flower, 1191. ■ --— rotundifolia, 64, p. 8—10, round-leaved bell flower, 244, 217. • . — rotundifolia, 64, var. (3. Smith, 244. -—- trachelium, 65, p. 7, 8, nettle leaved bell-flower, 101, 1219. Carduus eriophorus, 235, b. 7, 8, woolly¬ headed thistle, 764. - heterophylius, 235, p. C—8, mel¬ ancholy thistle, 719. - marianus, 235, a. 8, milk thistle, 260, 463. ■ -— tenuiflorus, 235, a. 6, slender flowered thistle, 291. Carex atrata, 272, p. 6—8, black carex, 715, 720. -- divisa, 270, p 5, 6, bracteate marsh carex, 720. - flava, 273, p. 5, 6, yell, carex, 720. - -- pauciflora, 268, p. 6, few flowered carex, 792. - pendula, 271, p. 5, 6, great pendu¬ lous carex, 452. - pilulifera, 274, p. 4—6, round head¬ ed carex, 720. - pulicaris, 268, p. 6, flea carex or seg, 452. - strigosa, 271, p. 4, 5, loose pendu¬ lous carex, 452. Centunculus minimus, 46, a. 6, 7, bastard pimpernel, 804. Cerastium alpinum, 135, p. 6—8, alpine mouse-ear, 1203, 1208. - latifolium, 153, p. 6, broad-leav¬ ed rough chick weed, 1203. Chara fexilis, 265, smooth stone wort, 447. Cheiranthus sinuatis, 196, b. 6—8, sea stock, 97. Chelidonium glaucium, see Glaucium lu- teum. Chenopodium maritimum, 74, a. 7, 8, sea goosefoot, 226, 292, 401. Chironia pulchella, 70, a. 8, 9, dwarf branched centuary, 1003. Chlora perfoliata, 111, a. 6—9, perforated yellow wort 400, 654, 1519. Chrysosplenium alternifolium, 122, p.3— 5, alternate leaved sea-green, 908. -oppositifolium, 122, p. 3—5, opposite leaved scagreen, 720. Cichorium intybus, 233, p. 7, 8, wild suc¬ cory, 400. Cineraria palustris, 243, p. 6, 7, marsh flea wort, 97. Circaea lutetiana, 5, p. 6, 7, inchanter’s nightshade, 575. Cistus guttatus, 159, a. 6, 7, spotted flow¬ ering Cistus, 650. -- Helianthemum, 159, s. 6, dwarf cistus, 221, 400, 469, 756, 817. —— marifolius, 159, s. 5, 6, hoary dwarf cistus, 399, 463. Cochlearia danica, 192, a. 5, 6, danish scurvy grass, 60, 91. -- officinalis, 191, a. 4, 5, com. scurvy grass, 37, 91, 98, 400, 715, 719, 1203. Comarum palustre, 153, p. 6, 7, marsh cinquefoil, 60. Conferva vagabunda, 334, a. 4—10, 867. Convolvulus soldanella, 64, p. 7, sea bind¬ weed, 37, 60, 400, 756, 8b5. Conyza squarrosa, 240, b. 7, 8, great flea- bane, 463. Cotyledon lutea, 131, p. 6, greater yellow navelwort, 1319. -- umbilicus, 131, p. 6—8, com. navelwort, 292, 400, 470, 715, 800. Crambe maritimum, 193, p. 5, 6, sea kale, 300. Crataegus terminalis, 145, t. 4,5, wild ser¬ vice tree, 452. Crithmum maritimum, 80, p. 8, rock sam¬ phire, 60, 97, 400, 756. Cyathea fragile, 240, p. 6—9, brittle poly¬ pody, 720. - fragile, 0. 240, p. 6—9, brittle polypody, 1203. Cynoglossum officinale, 60, b. 6, common houndstongue, 434. Daphne laureola, 144, s. 3, 4, laurel me- zereon, 452. Dianthus cavyophyllus, 126, p. 6, 7, car¬ nation, 319. Dipsacus pilosus, 42, p. 8, amall teasel, 1008. Draba incana, 188, b. 5—7, twisted pod¬ ded whitlow-grass 718, 719, 1208. Dryas octopetala, 153, p. 6—8, mountain avens, 1203. Elymus arenaria, 36, p. 7, 8, upright sea lime-grass, 37, 400, 756, 865. Empetrum nigrum, 297, s. 4, 5, crowber- ry, 270, 720. Epilobium angustifolium, 110, p. 6—8, rosebay willow-herb, 715. Epipactus palustris, 255, p. 7, 8, marsh epipactis, 60, 291. 1373 INDEX TO THE PLANTS. 1374 Erigeron acre, ‘240, b. 7—9, blue fleabane, 300, 452. Eriophorum polystachion, 18, p. 4, 5, broad leaved cot. grass, 319, 323, 447, 792. -vaginatum, 18, p. 3,4, single headed cotton-grass, 323, 447. Erodium maritimum, 202, p. 5—10, sea crane’s bill, 291, 400, 401, 1003. •-moschaumi, 201, a 5—10, musk crane’s bill, 1191. Eryngiurn maritimum, 77, p. 7, 8, sea hol¬ ly, 226, 400,575, 661, 756. Euonymus europatus, 71, s. 5, 6, spindle- tree, 502, 605. Euphorbia peplis, 140, a. 7, 8, purple spurge, 37, 97. - portlandica, 140, p. 8, portland spurge, 60, 291. Festuca bromoides, 30, a. 5, 6, barren fes¬ cue grass, 152. • -duriuscula, 29, p. 6, hard fescue grass, 244. - ovina, 29, p. 6, sheep’s fescue- grass, 244. - rubra, 29, p. 7, creeping fescue grass, 1, 715, 719, 1203. .-- rubra, |3. Smith F. cambrica, 719. Fontinalis squamosa, 275, p. 6—10, scaly watermoss, 715. Fumaria claviculata, 209, a. 6—9, white climbing fumatory, 81, 115, 260, 3S7, 800, 1210. -- lutca, 208, p.5, yellow fumatory, 98. Galleopsis villosa, 175, a. 7, 8, downy hempneitle, 91. Gallium boreale, 45, p. 7, 8, cross-leaved goose-grass, 323, 715, 719, 731. Genista pilosa, 210, s. 5,6, hairy green¬ weed, 470. Gentiana amarella, 76, a. 8, 9, autumnal gentian, 452, 654. --campestris, 76, a. 8,9, field gen¬ tian, 654, 715. -- pneumonanthe, 76, p. 8, 9, marsh gentian, Calathian violet, 60, 1263. Geranium columbinum, 203, a. 6—8, long stalked crane’s-bill, 400. -maritimum, see Erodium mari¬ timum. -rotundifolium, 203, a. 5—7, round leaved crane’s-bill, 452. - sanguineum, 203, p. 7—9, bloody crane’s bill, 382,400, 463, 756, 905. Geum rivale, 152, p. 6—8, water avens, 1203. Glaucium luteum, 157, a. 7, 8, yellow horned poppy, 37, 226, 291, 400, 507, 715, 756. Glaucium phoenicium, 157, a. 6—8, red horned poppy, 400. Glaux maritima, 72, p. 6, 7, black salt¬ wort, 97,291, 400, 661. Gnaphalium dioicum, 239, p. 5—7, moun¬ tain cat’s-foot, 244, 323, 720. Heleborus viridis, 166, p. 3—5, green helle¬ bore, 166. Hieracleum alpinium, 230, p. 6—8, moun¬ tain hawk weed, 324, 719, 1203, 1208. -auriantiacum,231,p. 7, orange hawkweed, 719. --murorum 231, p. 7, wall hawkweed 292, 715, 777. -taraxaci, 230, p. 8, autumnal hedypnois, 719. Hippuris vulgaris, 2, p. 4—6, mare’s tail, 60, 483. Humulus lupulus,299, p. 6, common hop, 661. Huttoniapalustris, 62, p. 6,7, water violet, 1316. Hydrocotyle inundata, 77, b ? 5, floating white rot, 60. Hymenophillum tumbridgense, 465, 715. Hypericum elodes, 221, p. 7, marsh St. John’s wort, 60, 291. Hyoscyamus niger, 69, a. 6, 7, henbane, 434. Hypericum Androsnemum, 220, p. 7—9, tutsan, 226, 291, 661. --— montanum, 221, p. 7, moun¬ tain St.John’s wort, 1048. --pulchrum, 221, p. 6, 7, up¬ right St. John’s wort, 226,292, 868. Iberis nudicaulis, 193, a. 6, 7, naked stalk¬ ed candy-tuft, 407. Impatiens noli me tangere, 66, a. 7, 8, touch me not, 937. Inula crithmoides, 244, p. 8, samphire¬ leaved fleabane, 300. Isoetis lacustris, -245, p. 5—9, quillwort, 324,465, 715, 719, 720, 1201, 1208. Jassione montana, 66, a. 6, 7, mountain jasionc,791. Juncus glaucus, 98, p. 7, 8, hard rush, 575. -maritinms, 98, p. 7, 8, less sharp sea rush, 1034. -squarrosus, 99, p. 6, 7, moss rush, 1203. -triglumis, 99, p. 6—8, thrice flow¬ ered rush, 719, 1208. Jungennannia alpina, 281, p. 4—10 ; 244. -- asplenoides, 277, p. 2, 3; 653. - julacea, 281, p. 9, 10 ; 245. -- minuta, 280, 245. Juniperus communis, var. 2. 301, s. 5, dwarf alpine juniper, 117, 400, 720, 1203, 1208. Knappia agrostidea, 23, early knappia, 60. 1375 INDEX TO TI1E PLANTS. I37i Lathrxa squamana, 181, p. 4, 5, great toothwort, 452. Lathyrus latifolius, 212, p. 7, 8, broad¬ leaved vetchling, 400. - - -palustris, 212, p. 7, 8, marsh vetchling, 115. --sylvestris, 212, p.7,8, wild lathy rus, 401, Lavatera arborea, 205, b. 7—10, sea-trec mallow, 60, 1239. Lemna gibba, 226, a. 6—8, gibbous duck meat, 1150. Lepidium latifolium, 190, p. 6,7, broad¬ leaved dittander, 1150. Lychen centrifugus, 294, p. 1—12, 245. ■ crassus, 294, p. 1—12, 1208. -— fragilis, 304, p. 1—12, 245. - fuscus, 293, 91. •- islandicus, 296, 1209. ——— lanatus, 306, p. 1—12, 91. - omphalodes, 295, p. 1—12, cork, 117,1210. —— paschalis, 305, p. 1—12, 245. - proboscideus, 302, p. 1 —12, 404. - tartarius, 291, p. 1—12, 1209. Lichnis viscaria, 133, p. 5, 6, viscous catch- fly, 1023, 1319. Ligustrum vulgare, 5, 5—7, privet, 60, 400, 502, 756. Limosella aquatica, 184, a. 7—9, mud- wort, 483. Lithospermum purpuro-exruleum, 59, p. 4,5, creeping gromweli, 452. Littorella lacustris, 277, p.6—8, plantain shore-weed, 81. Lobelia dortmanna. 66, p. 7, 8 water gla- diole, 243, 323,324, 715, 716, 717, 719, 1208. Lycopodium alpinum, 235, p. 7, 8, club- moss, 292, 720. • -— clavalum, 235, p. 7, 8, club- moss, 243, 292, 470. • - inundatum, 236, p. 6, 9, marsh club-moss, 322. - selago , 236, p. 4—10, fir club- moss, 244, 715, 720, 1203. -- selogonoides, 236, p. 6—9, prick¬ ly club-moss, 243, 715, 720. Lysimachia thirsiflora, 63, p. 6, 7, tufted lose strife, 400. -vulgaris, 62, p. 6, 7, yellow loose-strife, 60, 291. Lythrum hyssopifolium, 139, a. 7, 8, hys¬ sop-leaved w. herb, 661. -- salicaria, 139, p. 7, 8, purple spiked willow herb, 661. Melampyrum sylvaticum, 181, a. 6—8, wood cow-wheat, 98, 226. Melica caerulea, 24, p. 5—8, purple melic- grass, 48, 319, 323, 719. -nutans, 24, p. 6, 7, mountain me- lic grass, 452. Mentha acutafolia, 173, p. 9, sharp leaved mint, 1219. Mentha viridis. 171, p. 8, Spear mint, 388 Meum athamanticum, 81, p. 5, commot spignel, 170. Mirica gale, 298, 5, sweet gale, 470, 507 807, 869, 1003, 1208. Narthecium ossifragum, 96, p. 7, 8, Lan¬ cashire Asphodel, 242, 243, 1271. Neottia spiralis, 255. p. 8—10, spiral neot- tia, 60, 291. Nymphxa alba, 158, p. 7,8, white watet lily, 37, 242, 465, 476, 866, 867, 868, 887, 1272. - lutea, 158, p. 6—8, yellow wa¬ ter-lily, 60,242, 502. CEnanthe crocata, 83, p. 6, 7, hemlock wa¬ ter dropwort, 452. -pimpenelloides, 83, p. 7, 8, pars- ley water dropwort, 1. Ophioglossum vulgatum, 234, p. 5, 6, adder’s tongue 60. Ophrys spiralis, see Neottia spiralis. Origanum vulgare, 177, p. 7, 8, wild mar jorum, 400 Ornithogalum luteum, 95, p. 3, 4, yellow Bethlehem star. 764. Orobanche major, 184, p. 5—7, greater broom rape, 6o, 291. -minor, 185, a? less broom rape, 400. Orobus sylvaticus, 211, p. 5,6, bitter vetch 226, 400, 470, 804. Osmunda lumaria, 234, p. 5—7, moonwort, 60. - regalis, 235, p. 6—8, flowering fern, 60, 869. Papaver cambricum, 158, p. 6—8, yellow poppy, 91, 715, 731, 1203, 1319. --dubium. 158, a, 6,7, long smooth headed poppy, 1263. Parietaria officinalis, 306, p. 5—9, pelli- tory of the wall, 434. Parnassia palustris, 87, p. 8—10, grass of parnassus, 719. Peziza epidendra, 408, 523. Phascum montanum, (roctum ?) 252, 1203. Pilularia globulifera, 244, p. 6—9, piper grass, 908. Pinguicula vulgaris, 8, p. 5, 6, butterwort, 244, 800. Plantago coronopus, 46, a. 5—8, buck’s- horn plantain, 37, 291, 400. -maritima, 46, p. 6—8, sea plan¬ tain, 37, 97, 260, 323, 400, 719, 1208. Poa alpina, 26, p. 6, 7, alpine meadow grass, 244, 1203. Poa caesia, 27, p. 6, 7, sea-green meadow grass, 323,715, 1203. Poa maritima, p. 6, 7, creeping sea mea¬ dow grass, 483. — rigida, 26, a. 6—8, hard meadow grass, 4+6. Polygonum bistora, 115, p 6, sreat bis¬ tort, 908. 1 377 INDEX TO THE PLANTS. 1378 Polygonum fagopyrum, 116, a. 7, 8, buck wheat, 1168. Polygonium viviparium, 116, p. 5, 6, al¬ pine bistort, 716. Pu/ypodium aculeatum, 239, p. 6—10, prickly polypody, 291. —- artoincum, 239, p 7—9; 1203. - cambrintm, 237, p. 6—10, com¬ mon polypody, 399. • - oreopferis, 238, p. 7—10, heath polypody, 292. ■- phegupteris, 238, p. 6—10, wood polypody, 323, 715, 720. -— felix fonnina, 239, p. 6—9, fe¬ male polypody, 291. -— lonchiiis, 237, p. 5—10, spleen- wort, 715. * - rh(rtiaim, 240, p. 6—9,719,720. -- vulgare, 236, p. 6—10, com¬ mon polypody, 400. ^olytricum alpinum, 248, p. 6—8, 245. - unigerum, 248, p. 6—8, 245. ’otamogeton gramineum, 48, p. 7, 8, broadleaved pondweed, 1150. ’otentilla argentia, 151, p. 6 — 9, hoary cinquefoil, 936. r-rupestris, 151, p. 6, 7, strawber¬ ry flower cinquefoil, 1320. -verna, 152, p. 4—6, spring cinquefoil, 400. 'runns padus, 144, s. 5, bird cherry, 144. ’teriscrispn , 243, p. 8, stone fern, 244, 715,719,720, 1203, 1319. 'ulmonaria maritinia, 60, p 6,7, sea lung¬ wort, 37, 291,400, 452, 756, 866. 'yrus aria, 147, b. 5, white beam tree, 400, 1048, 1319, 1320. - hybrida, 147, t. 5,moun.ash, 777. anunculus acris, 165, p 6,7, buttercups, 1203. -hederaceous, 165, p. 5—8, ivy crowfoot, 291. -lingua, 164, p. 7, great spear- wort, 291. -parviflorus, 165, a. 5, 6, small flowered crowfoot, 650. ieseda luteola, 139, a. 7, weld, 905, 1005. .hamnus calharticus, 70, s. 4 —6, buck¬ thorn. 452. hodiola rosea, 300, p. 5—7, yellow rose- wort, 243, 244, 323,720, 1208. ibes grosularia, 71, s. 4, rough goose¬ berry, 452. -uva-crispa, 72, s. 4,5, smooth goose¬ berry, 291, 452. ottbollia incurvata, 36, a. 7, 8, sea hard grass, 1150. osa spinosissima, 148, s. 6, 7, burnet rose, 291,400, 756, 817. -vilosa, 148, p. 6, apple rose, 793. ubia peregrina, 45, p. 6, 7, wild madder, 400. ubus csesius, 149, s. 6, 7, dewberry bush, 572. Rubus chamaemorus, 150, p. 5,6, cloud¬ berry, 292, 404, 470, 719. - idaeus, 149, s. 5, 6, raspberry, 572, S04, 874, 1306. ■- saxatilis, 150, p. 6, stone bramble, 324, 400, 719, 1203, 1208. Rumex dygynus, 102, p.5—7, mountain sorrel, 243, 323, 719, 1203. -maritimus, 102, p. 7, 8, golden dock,483. Ruppia maritima, 50, p.? 7,8, tassel pond- weed, 115, 300, 867, 1272. Salicornia herbacea, 2, a. or b. 8,9, marsh samphire, 98, 400, 756. Salix fusca, 294, sh. 5, brownish dwarf willow, 1003. -herbacea, sh. 6, 7, herbaceous wil¬ low, 1203. Salsola Kali, 75, a. V. 8, prickly glosswort, 226, 291. Salvia pratensis, 9, p. 6, 7, meadow clary. 789. -verbcnica, 9, p. 6—10, wild clary, 226, 400, 661, 756, 1150. Samhucus ehulus, 86, p. 7, dwarf elder, 502, 575, 905. Samolus valerandi,70, p. 6, 7, brook weed, 291. Sanicula europaea, 77, p. 5, 6, common sanicle, 226, Santolina maritima, 237, p. 8, 9, sea cot¬ ton weed, 60. Saponaria officinalis, 125, p. 7—9, soap- wort, 101, 800. Satyrium viride, 258, p. 6, 7, ladies slip¬ per, 908. Saxafraga aizoides, 123, p. 7, 8, yellow mountain saxifrage, 383, 120.3. -caespuosa, 124, p. 6, tufted al¬ pine saxifrage, 717, 719. - granulata, 123, p. 4, 5, white saxifrage, 452. -hypnoides, 124, p. 5 — 7, moss saxifrage, 244, 292, 719. - nivalis, 123, p. 4—10, mountain saxifrage, 84,323, 719, 874, 1203. - oppositilolia, 123, p. 4, purple saxifrage, 244, 719, 1203. -palmata, 124, p. 5, 6, palmate saxifrage, 717, 719. -stellaris, 122, p. 6, 7, hairy saxi¬ frage, 1,244, 463, 719, 1203. -tridactylitcs, 124, a. 4, 5, rue- leaved saxifrage, 400. Schoenus compressus, 15, p.7, compressed rush grass, 483. - nigricans, 15, p. 6, black bog- rush, 792, 1203. Schrophularia vernalis, 183, b. 4, 5, yel¬ low figwort, 400. Scilla verna, 96, p. 4, vernal squill, 37, 400. Stirpus caespitosus, 16, p. 6—8, dwarf clubrush, 715, 1203. 45 1370 INDEX TO THE PLANTS. 1380 ficirpus lacustris, 17, p. 7, 8, bull-rush, 792. -- maritimus, 18, p. 7, 8, salt marsh club-grass, 483. -palustris, 16, p. 7, 8, marsh creep¬ ing club-rush, 792. Scleranthus perennis, 125, p. 7—11, an¬ nual knawel, 406. Scutellaria minor, 179, p. 7, 8, less scull- cap, 291, 715. Sedum anglicum, 132, a. 5—8, english stone-crop, 292, 400. - dasypbyllum, 132, p. 6,7, round leaved stone-crop, 221. -reflexum, 132, p. 7, yellow stor.e- crop, 2. --rupestre, 132, p. 7, rock stone- crop, 221, 715, 718, 719, 804, 1048, 1208, 1319 ■ -sexangulare, 132, p. 6, 7, insipid stone-crop, 291. •-telephium, 131, p. 8, orpine stone- crop, 244, 291, 400. Senecio tenuifolius, 242, p. 7, 8, hoary ragwort, 452, 654. - viscosus, 241, a. 7—10, stinking groundsel, 81. Serapias palustris, see Epipactis palustris. Serratula alpina, 234, p. 7—9, mountain saw-wort, 292, 1203. Silene acaulus, 128, p. 5—7, campion, 292,715,719. - anglica, 127, a. 6, 7, english catch- fly, 291. -maritima, 127, p. 8, 9, seacatchfly, 291, 292, 300, 400, 756. - nutans, 127, p. 6, 7, Nottingham catchfly, 398, 400. Sisymbrium tenuifolium, 195, p. 7—10, wall rocket, 575. -monense, 195, dwarf sea rock¬ et, 60, 400. Sium angustifolium, 82, p. 7—9, narrow- leaved water parsnep, 60. Solidago virgaurea, 242, p. 7—9, golden rod. 15, 324, 661, 719, 720, 1191, 1208. Spergula nodosa, 136, p. 7—9, knotted spurry, 291. -subulata, 136, p. 6—8, ciliate awl shaped spurry, 446, 452. Spharganium alpinum, 267, grey bog- moss, 244, 1208. -natans, 267, p. 7 floating bur-reed, 465, 715. - simplex, 267. Spirea filipendula, 147, p. 6, 7, common dropwort, 400, 756. Stachys arvensis, 165, a. 6, corn crowfoot, 291. Statice armeria, 88, p. 5—8, com. thrift, 37,718, 1208. ■ -- reticulata, 88, p.7, 8, matted thrift, 479 Stellaria nemorum, 128, p. 5, 6, broad¬ leaved stitchwort, 1217. Stellaria uliginosa, 129, a. 6, bog stitch, wort, 804. Subularia aquatica, 188, a. 6, 7, water awl wort, 324, 465, 715, 719, 1201, 1208. Swertia perennis, 76, p. 8, marsh felwort, 1208. Thalietrum alpinum, 163, p. 6, mountain rue weed, 243, 323, 719,1203, 1208. -minus, 162, p. 6—8, less rue- weed, 243, 323, 382, 399, 463, 719, 1208. Thlaspi alpestre, 191, p. 6, 7, alpine shep¬ herd's purse, 804. - hirtum, 191, p. 6, hairy mith. mus¬ tard, 1208. Thymus acinos, 178, a. 6, 8, basil thyme, 446. Tormentilla reptans, 152, p. 6, 7, trailing tormeniil, 291, 804. Tremella utriculata, ,':09, p. 1—12, 715. - verrucosa, 309, p. 1—12,715. Trifolium arvcnse, 217, a. 7, 8, hare’s foot trefoil, 1003. -glomcratum, 216, a. 5, 6, round headed trefoil, 44b, 452. -maritimum, 217, a. 6, 7, teasel¬ headed trefoil, 1003. Triglochin maritimum, 104, sea arrow grass, 291. Trollius europaeus, 166, p. 5, 6, globe 1 flower, 715. Turritis hirsuta, 198, p. 8, 9, hairy tower, mustard, 452. Utricularia vulgaris, 8, p. 8, great bladder, snout, 60. Vaccinium myrtillus, 111, s. 4, 5, bilberry 572, 720, 1191. -oxycoccus, 111, p. 5, 6, cram berry, 292. -uliginosum. 111, s. 4, 5, great bilberry, 804. - vitis idsea, 111, s. 4—6, red wortle-berry, 244. Valeriana rubra, 13, p. 5—9, red valerian, 789. Verbena officinalis, 9, p. 7—9, vervain, 502. Veronica hybrida, p. 7—9, welsh speed well, 1208, 1320. -scutellata, 7, p. 6—8, narrow¬ leaved speedwell, 60. -montaoa, 7, p. 5, 6, mountain speedwell, 399,452, 908. -spicata, 6, p. 6 —9, spiked speed¬ well, 399, 463, 1048. Vinca minor, 72, p.5, less periwinkle,1216 Viola alpina, 67, p. 4—6, dog’s violet, var. 4, 1203. - lutea, 67, p. 5—9, yellow mountain pansy, 887. - palustris, 66, p. 4,5, marsh viol.447 Vitis idsea, vine tree, 792. Zannichellia palustris, 264, horned pond- weed, 60, 291. INDEX OF EMINENT PERSONS, NOTICED IN THIS WORK. Abren, 1005. Adam de Francton, 232. Agricola, 56. Alectus, 91. Arnolds, 26. Arthur, 680. Asserius Menevensis, 511. Baladun, Hameline, 14, 15. Barrow, dr. Isaac, 1213. Barue, 256. Beli, 265. Bcuno, st. 38°. Beveridge, dr. Wm. 1213. Blayney, Arthur, 773, 1010. Bleddin ap Maenarch, 170, 181, 195. Bradwardine, archbp. 1353. Brcos, Reginald de, 163. Broase, Philip de, 14. Brochwell. Yseythrog, 180. Brychan Brecheinog, 193. Burgess, dr. Tho. 1233. Cadvan, 320. Cadwallader, 42, 56, 72. Cadwgan ap Elystan Glod- rydd, 230. Cadwgan Grach, 10. Cair Hir ap Cynyr, 82. Cantelupc, Tho. 629. Caractacus, 352, 1191. Caractacus’s speech, 857. Caradoc the historian, 415. Caraucius, 1237. Carron, or Corausius, 91. Cartistnunda, queen, 352. Caswallan, 56. Catamanus or Cadfan, 72. Cawdor, lord, 279. Ccrdic, 680. Cilmin droed du, 421. Coetmores, 731. Collwyn ap Tagno, 62. Conan ap Sistylht, 409. Cradock, the hermit, 587. Cradocus, 652. Crida, 453. Croxall, dr. 426. Cynddelw, 822. Dafydd ap Shenkin, 478. David ap Gwillim, 343. Davies, dr. John, 440. Davies, Robert, 452. Deiniol, St. 87. Deio ab Jeven Du, 44. De la Bere, 361. Dinothus, 87. Dodd, dr. 169. Dodsley, Rob. 141. Draper, mrs. 216. Dubricius, 96, 501. Dwynwen, st. 74. Dyer, the poet, 1004. Edgar, 88, 455. Ednyled ap Aaron, 249. Ednvfed Fychan, 92. Eduowain, 249. Edward 1, 57, 119. Egbert, 56. Eineon ap Gwalchmai, 68. Eineon ap Gwgan, 49. Eineon Glyd, 199. Elystan Glodrydd, 233,237. Ethelbald, 427, 45.3. Forest, dr. 406. Francis, St. 62. Galfrid ap Arthur, see Geof¬ frey of Monmouth. Gam, David, 29, 179, 137, 860, 927. Garmon, st. 293. Gell, admiral, 24, 427. GeofFery of Moumouth,915. Geraint ab Erbin, 67. Gennanus, st. 297. Gilbert de Strongbow, 35. Gildas Nennius, 95. Giraldus, 507, 880, 1229. Glyndwr, Owen, 47, 62. Goodman, dr. 466, 1165. Gower, bp. 1230. Griffith ap Cynan, 507, 1007. Hubert de St. Clare, 211. Huntington, lady, 201. Harris, Howel, 200, 202, 432. Hvvfa a Cynddelw, 4. ldio Wyllt, 195. Idris, 240. Idwal, 718. Ifor, 343. Ifor Bach, 728,1112. Ifor Hacl, 255, 990. Ireton, general, 4. James, William, 903. Jestyn ap Gwrgwn, 728. Joan, princess, 62. Johnnes, col. 35. Jones, Poulke, 466. Jones, John, 183. Jones, Owen, 352. Jorwerth, 261. Jorwerth Drwyndwn, 477, 785. Kent, John of, 559. Kenulph, king, 362. King, Janies, 356. Kyrle, John, 1151. L’Estrange, 821 . Llewelyn ap Gryffydd. 2, 46,56,231,276,402,746. Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, (the great) 63, 110, 114, 393, 477, 801. Llvvyd, sir Gryffydd, 92. Llv iielig ab glanog, 771 Llywarch hen, 406, 407, Gryffydd ap Madoc, 776. Gruffyth ap Rhys, 273. Gryffyd grygg, 61. Gryffydd Maelor, 259, 772. Gwrgan ap Bleddin, 184. Gwyn, judge. 234. Hackluyt, Richard, 698. Hael, Gwcrful, 800. Hamet, sir Benj. 331. Hanburics, 1098. Hanmer, Tho. 1195. Henllan, Owen, 667. Herberts, 164. 186. Herbert, sir Rich. 15, 1108. Hicks, Wm. bart. 362. Hogarth, 217. Holcombe, archdea. 1251. Holwell, governor, 899. Horseley, dr. Sam. 1213. Howel Dda, 71, 825. Howel Dhu, 276. Howell y Twyall, 410. 803. Lucius, 95. Lupus, st. 293. Madocks, W. A. 1307. Madoc ap Meredydd, 772. Madog, 1 13. Maelgwyn Gwynedd, 10, 56,' 87, 897. Marchudd, lord of Uwch dulas, 62. Margaret uch Evan, 716. Marten, Henry, 366, 682. Maurice, dr. Henry, 93. Meredydd ap Meirchion 446. Merlin, 274, 1210. Middleton, sir Hugh, 37,42, Milburg, st. 198. Monacella, st. 785. Morgan, dr. Wm. 799,1215. Morgan, Wm. 1290. Morgan, Maurice, 1290. 1384 INDEX OF PERSONS. 1386 Morris, Lewis, 701. Morris, Valentine, 1066. Myfanwy Fechan, 776. Newmarch, Bernard, 16‘2, 178, 230. Offa, 362, 453, 455. Oldcastle, sir J.31. Oliver de Dyneham,23l. Ouseley, sir Wm. 428. Ovvain ap Cyllin, 409. O wain ap Meredydd ap Tu- dyr, 54,91, 92. Owain Gwynedd, 42, 65, 87, 93, 100, 273, 404. Owen ap Caradoc, 273. Owen Glyndwr, 404, 780, 860. Owen, Goronw, 68, 764. Owen, sir John, 4. Panton, Paul, esq. 111,760. Paternus, st. 8, 38. Peado, 453. Penda, 453. Pennant, Tho. 48^ Perrott, sir John, 587. Phillips, Catherine, 328. Philips, John, 631. Phillips, dr. James, 331. Pounderling, sir Rob. 463. Powell, dr. David, 1157. Powell, Vavasor, 320. Price, dr. 211. Price, Tho. 231, 771. Price, rev. Rob. 501. Price, Uvedale, 36. Priestley, dr. 129. Pritchard, Michael, 797. Pritchard, Rhys, 956. Prys, Edmund, 866. Pry sc of Gogerthan, 37, 42, 46. Pryse, sir John, 584. Ranulph, earl of Chester, 100 . Rees, John David, 897. Rhain Dremrhudd, 180. Rhydderchab JevanLlwyd, 42. Rhyddcrch ap Caradoc, 507. Rhydderch ap Tudor, 273. Rhys ap Llewelyn ap Hw- lyn, 560. Rhys ap Owen, 507. Rhys ap Tewdwr Mawr, 277, 1007. Rhys ap Thomas, 273. Rhys ap Tudor, 195, 507. Rhysbach, 220. Rhys goch, 322. Rhys gwrgan, 344. Rhun, 276. Robert de Belseme, 211. Roberts, Bartholomew,593. Robinson Mary, 217. Roger de Mortimer, 211. Rogers, Tom, 1115. Rosamond, 613. Rotpart, bp. 735. Rowlands, John, 296. Rupert, prince, 391. Shenstone, Wm. 139, 155. Siddons, mrs. 161. Sheffington. bp. 87. Somerville, Wm. 140, South, dr. Rob. 799. Spence, Joseph, 144. Steele, sir Richard, 275. Sterne, 216 Suetonius, 55, 74. Sytsyltap Dyfnwald, 14. Theodoric, king, 158. J i Thomson, James, 147,151. i! Trahaearn ap Caradoc, 507, 1007. ( Trahern Fychan, 177. Trevor, sir John, 777. 1 Tucker, dr. Josiah, 824. ! Tudor, Catherine, 449. i Tudor, Trevor, 260. J Tolly, bp. 512. 1 Vanderbank, 220. Victorinus, 183. I Vortigern, 116. William de Breosor Bruce, 2, 61, 735. Williams ap Howel, 93. Williams, Edward, 415. Williams, sir Charles Han- bury, 1108. Williams, Wm. 731. Wilson, the painter, 253. Worcester, marquis of, 1134. Wynne, dr. 907. Yonge, Ellis, 260. INDEX OF PLACES, Abba llanda, 825. Abberley-lodge, 138, 1343, Abbey, 402, 809. Abbey cwm hir, 1127, 1138. Abbey foregate, 215. Abbey of whiteland, 825, 1286. Abbot’s oak, 100. Aber, 1, 401, 771, 953. Aberaeron, 5, 41. Aberafon, 225, 418, 887. Aberanell, 233, 235. Aberangell, 462. Aberarth, 6. Aberbeeg, 1102. Aberbran, 193, 750, 1230. Abercamlais, 193 196. Abercarn, 1104, 1109. Aber castle, 2, 512. Aber cegid, 89, 1114. Aberciog, 407. Abercoran, 824. Abercwm, 955. Abercwm river, 278. Abercruchan churcb, 750. Aberdare, 310. Aberdaron, 420. Aberderfin, 1359. Aberdeudd wr, 971. A'oerdillis, 964. Abcrdillis forge, 963. Aberdillis mill, 963. Aberdovey, 1303. Aberdysyni,337. Aberedwy castle, 617,1352. Aberenig-place, 618. Aberfechan, 773. Aber ferry, 1. AberfFraw-house, 1, 56, 300,316. Abergavenny, 13. Aberceley, 32, 107,457. Aberglassney, 745. Abergwili, 174, 275, 276, 745. Abergwnolwyn, 1302,1303. Aberhafesp-hall.1008,1010. Aberhiriaeth, 462, 865. Aberhiriaeth-hall, 865. Aberlon, 6. Aberllolwyn, 7. Aberllyn, 616. Aberllyvenni, 615. Abermarle, 752. Abermarle park, 740, 742. Abermenai ferry, 57, 74. A hermetic, 713. Abermule, 1007. Abermynach, 462. Aberpergwm, 964. Aberporih, 332,970. Aber rhiow, 765 Abertanat, 818. Abertrinant, 46. Aberyscir, 177, 178, 750. Aberysker court, 196. Aberystwith, 34. Aberystwith village, 1101. Abnot, 1355. Abone, 1235. Acton park, 559,1350,1351, Adam’s leap, 1032. Adney, 215. Adwyer beddau, 1022. Aeron vale 709. Afonfachcn, 85. Afon fuchan, 963. Afon gaseg, 732, 952. Afon glas llyn, 1210. Afon gyvvion, 949. Afon llwyd, 16,28,268,269. Afon river, 215, 525. Ala, 734. Alan river, 1223, 1238. Alau rivulet, 58. A law river, 560. Alba domus, 279, 825. Alba mill, 790. Alberbury, 1195. Albrighton, 1195. Aldenham-hall, 21 5. Alderbury. 820. Aleston, 809. Alexanderstone, 177. Alisby castle, 427. Allensmoor, 645. All stretton, 859. Allt brithdir, 765. Alltfillo camp, 198. Allt goch, 705. Allt-lwyd, 249, 1299. Allt y crub mine, 338. Allty esgyr, 184. Allt y gog, 276, 745. Allt yr arfaid, 769. Alltyrodin, 706,971, 792, 973. Alltvrynys house, 30. Almond park, 1195. Alney isle, 547. Alun river, 456, 457, 520, 657, 909. Alveston, 975. Alvven river, 451. Ambleston, 593. Ambury, 680, 699. Amlwch, 47, 69. Amrotli castle, 1286. Anderton, 1013. Andros, 926. Anclesea, 55, 299, 302j Arburthen, 410,418. Arcadia, 396. Ardwy’r clawdd, 454, Arfedoged y gowres, 42X Argoed, 998. Anconium, 642. Ariyg, 952 Arley-house, 138. Arran ben llyn, 79, 81, 84> 785, 865, 870. Armour-hill, 1195. Arnoid’s-hill, 957. Arran fawr, 86. Arranfowddwy, 247, 865» 873, 940. Arrans, 461. Arrenig mountains, 247, 406,461. Arth river, 6, 338,713. Arthur’s chair, 187. Arthur’s chair, see Brecon Beacons. Arthur’s quoit, 762. Arthur’s round table, 263, 446 Arthur’s stone, 962,1061. Ashford, 852, 1275. Ashford-court, 852. Ashford-house, 852. Ash-hall, 410. Ashwood, 1355. Aston, 1118. Aston-hall, 604. Aston pigot, 1196. Astroites, 657. Astronomer’s stone, 226. Atcham, 215. Atis cross, 517. Attringham-house, 215. Aust Ferry, Tabic of the times for passing, 77,222, Aylburton, 975. Aymestre, 1324. Awr glawdd mine, 338. Bacchannis 762. Bacham river, 451. Bache-camp, 698. Bachie, 771. Bachwen, 424. Bachwy river, 793. Bachygraig, 1218. Bachymbyd, 1166. Bagillt-hall, 656. Baglan, 418. Bailey hill, 905. 1390 INDEX OF PEACES. Bala, 77. Bala den Hyn, 119. Bala lake, '79. Ban brecheiniog, 194. Bangeston, 1029, 1030. Bancor, Caernarvonshire, 86, 61, 326, 773. o,i scu# Ft rry, 89. Cangor. Caidigans. 927. F \ncor Iscoed, Flint. 95. -•.:n gyhyrych, 190. ir gaen, 194. ■ in uwch dentii, 897. B.inwy, 766. Bardsley Isle, 95. Bargoed, 334. Bargotd taflf river, 310. Barmouth, 96. Baron’s cross, 696. Baron-hill, 3, 87, 107. Barrowdale, 658. Barry, islet of, 253, 256, 416. Basford, 858. Basford-gate, 157. Basingwerk, 456, 605. Basingwerk Abbey, 99, 654. Bassileg church 987, 990. Batchcot, 689, 851. Bathafarn, 1166, 1215. Battle, 178. Battlefield. 1173,1194. Baycheinog, 728. Bay’s hill lodge, 360. Beachley, 77, 101. Beaulieu grove, 918. Beaumaris, 102, 61, 302. Beddcelart, 112,25,293, 294. Beddau gwyrardudwy,500, 1270. Beddau ’r dewinion, 115. Bedd gwrtheyrn, 422, 787. Beddporus, 1301. Bedd ugreu, 1138. Bedd ygre, 1007. Bedlam, 363. Bedwas, 991. Bedw rivulet, 940. Beeston castle, 333, 1015. Begam, 989. Begelly, 279. Beggar’s bush, 336, 417. Belan, 1321. Bele river, 454. Belgrave, 383. Belgrove heath, 383. Belin-mount, 768, 819. !>• llingstockeencampment, 264. E mont, 645, 1354. B ;au bran y mwyn, 1306. B' i glas, 76. Ecu glog,89, 322, *134,953. Benton castle, 347, 589, 590. Ben twreh. 786. Benfilstone, 258. Bere bach, 735. Bere mawr, 735. Bcrith-landwell, 745. Bernard’s house, 706. Bernard’s-green lodge, 879. Benni wood intrenchment, 171. Berriew, 937, 938, 945. Berrington, 688, 689, 852. Bersham, 1162. Bersham iron works, 1349. Berddau park, 604, 1008. Berth llwyd, 1007, 1008. Berwick, 821, ll91. Berwick chapel, 761. Berw rhonda, 1111. Berwyn mountains, 387, 404, 784. Bethlehem, 421. Bettws bleddrws, 709. Bettws chapel, 193. Bettws garmon, 297, 967, 1007. Betws gwynfyl goch, 86. Bettws ifan, 332. Bettus newydd, 325, 326, 1314. Bettws y coed. 325, 326, 355,477,478, 806, 808. Bewdley, 137. Bicknor, 554. Bidncy, 643. Bidno river, 793. Biga mountains, 79l, 792, 940. Big s wear, 1359. Bilberry, 689. Bilmill lodge, 546, 547. Bingslay common, 1343. Birchal-house, 688. Birch grove, 962. Birch hill, 1138. Birdenbury, 699. Birdlip, 363. Bird’s point, 44. Birdwood, 548. Birdwood common, 547. Birmingham, soil,springs, baths, 121; air, longevi¬ ty, mud-city, 122; fami¬ lies, charter, buildings, 123; Charles 1, Ikenield street,priory, population, 124; trades,Taylor, Bas- kerville, 125 ; officers, libraries, 127 ; old church, new church, St. John’s chapel,St.Bartholomew’s chapel, 128; St. Mary’s chapel, St. Paul’s chapel, Ashstead chapel, Christ’s 1392 church, old meeting, new mccting,mob,129; Union meeting, Carr-lane meet¬ ing, Quaker’s meeting, Methodists, Roman cath¬ olics, Jewish synagogue, other chapels, theatre, 130 ; public gardens, ho¬ tel, schools, 131; market place, statue, pump, hos¬ pital, dispensary, prison, 132; crescent, barracks, inns, Soho, toy-shop, ja¬ pan and whip manufac¬ tories, newspapers, 133; fire-office, coaches, ob¬ jects of curiosity, 134. Berwan, 69. Bishop and his clerks, 1238. Bishop’s Castle, 156, 41, 215. Bishop’s-moat, 157,938. Bishop’s-wood, 546, 547, 554, 1356. Bishop’s-wood furnace,554. Bitcomb-hill, 18. Bitterley, 137, 853. Bitterley church, 853. Bix wear, 925. Blacnafon, 16, 31, 984. Blaenafon iron-works, 28. Blaenbylen, 1290. Blaen ddol ucha, 45. Blanedow, 1126. Blaen hafren,792, 1074. Blaen lleveny castle, 25. Blaenpant, 331, 966. Black-brook, 257. Black carr dun, 698, 699. Blackcliffs, 1360. Black cock-pit hill, 333. Blackhall, 936. Black mountains, 28, 197, 641, 1353. Blackmore park, 879. Blackpool, 349. Black rock inn, 977. Blaenau gwent, 1101,1108. Blaen gwydd noe, 1286. Blaen lhrbant, 973. Blaenporlh, 9, 41,332,671, 970. Blaenporth gwythern, 970. Blaensenny house, 964. Blaen wiske, 748. Blaen y nant, 947, 950. Blaidd pwll, 1288. Blaize castle, 222. Blake brook, 137. Blakeney, 975. Blanenose, 752. Blaenllyfni, 184. Blan nedd, 190. , Blansenni vale, 190. Blawtty, 320. 13S5 1393 Blestium, 814, 913, Blodfoel, 818. Blorenge mountain, 16, 31. Blosse’s, (sir R. L.) villa, 724. Boddio, 401. Bod druidian, 789. Bodedcrn, 560. Bodclvvyddan, 33, Bodenham, 699. Bodeon, 1029. Bod fach, 771,943. Bodfari,450, 518,520, 912, 1167. Bodiar, 560. Bodidris, 438. Bodorgan, 72. Bod rhann,771. Bodvvigad, 1087. Bod rhuddlan, 757, 1150. Bodscallen, 397, 757. Bodtalog, 866 . Boduan moel, 786, 968. Bod wyr, 789. Bod frigau, 44. Bodychan, 560. Bod yddon, 771. Bodybuchan,1127. Bolitree, 1153. Bolston, 587. Bolton-hill, 599. Bond’s-green, 644. Bone well, 852. Bon leff hir, 581. Bonvill’s court, 1285. Bonvilston, 413, 727. Borth, 47. Borough, 761. Bosherton, 1033. Bosherton meer, 1032. Boughrood, 616. Boverton, 257, 1252. Boverton farm, 417. Bovium, 773, 1252. Bow-street, 863. Braan, see Aberbran. Brachy-hill, 454. Bradnor mountain, 671. Bradwardine, 642,445,921, 1353. Braich du, 948. Braich y dinas, 1047, 1211. Braich y pwll, 421. Brampton brian, 388, 855, 1145. Brandon, 855. Brandon camp, 856. Brandon hill, 220. Bran river, 747,750,751. Brant, 91. Bravinium, 855, 856. Brawdy, 1242. Breaksea point, 256. Brean river, 196. Brechva, 279. INDEX OF PLACES Brecon, 158; wall, castle, 159; maendy well, baila glas, jail, 160 ; town- hall, arsenal, 161; priory, tombs, 162 ; chapel of St. Elyned, college, 167; Church, 169; dissenting chapels, ptiory, 171; pri ory grove, bridges, 172; priory walk, Christ’s church, 173. Brecon beacon, 187, 309, 896. Brecon mere, see Llan Sa- vathan. Breconshire, boundaries, manufactures, exports, roads, 204; canal, 205 •, agricultural society, 206; renting, teams, 207 ; modes of agriculture, 208; cattle and horses, ma¬ nures, 209; irrigation, &c,.210. Brecon vale, 25. Breidden hills, 768, 772, 819. Brennig, 1301. Bretton, 381,383. Briant river, 969. Brickct-house, 32. Bridell, 336. Bridenbury, 1343. Bridge, green, 278. Bridgend, 210, 255, 417, 963 Bridge-sollers, 645. Bridgnorth, 211 ; walk, streets, churches, 212 . Bridgwater-arms, 411,729. Bridstow, 548. Brierley, 689. Brimfield cross, 1275. Brinbo hall. 1349. Bringoleu 713. Brinsop court, 643, Bristol, castle, 215; cor¬ poration, cathedral, 216; churches, chapels, 217; bridges, streets, squares, statue, walls, hospitals, infirmary, blind asylum, 218; bridewell, charities, guildhall, council-house, exchange, quay, cross, library,guardhouse, trade, glasshouses, companies, conduits, theatre, assem¬ bly-room, 219; popula¬ tion, wells, 220. Brithdir, 790. British fortifications, how distinguished, 749. Britton ferry, 224, 4 18. Broad haven, 1246. Broad-oak, 546. Broadup, 645. Broadward, 689, Broad was, 1342. Broadwell farm, 980. Brobury’s scar, 1353. Brocastle, 417. Brockhampton, 1343. Brocton, 1196. Brockwater, 1298. Bromba, 458. Bromfield, 157, 457, 843. Bromhill, 418. Brompton hall, 157. Brompton-mill, 454. Bromsberow place, 879. Broomy close, 548. Bromyard, 1343. Bromyard down, 1343. Bronbil, 881. Bron vawr, 435. Bronwydd, 971, 972. Bronwyn, 970. Bron y garth, 1022. Bron y gocli mine, 338. Brookswear, 1259, 1362, 1366. Broughton, 381, 385. 646. Brown clee-hill, 833. Brownslade, 1031. Brunllys, 618. Bruinlly’s castle, 432. Brunant, 751. Brwyno, 237. Brymbo, 454, 1162. Brymind, 1267. Brynaro, 645. Brynaro mountain, 27. T’ryncamisir, 763. Brynderwen, 326, 1321. Bryn euryn, 756. Bryn ffosydd, 7. Bryn gaeddan, 320. Pryn goleu, 79. Pryn gwydryn,789. Bryngwyn, 226, 548, 772, 789, 924, 926, 1196. Prynkelly, 1070. Brynkinallt,456,777, 1350. Bryn lader, 787. Brynllys, 201, 177. Bryn moel, 456. Brynodol, 421,422, 968. Biyn siancyn, 228. Bryn uthyn, 401. Bryn y castell, 455. Bryn y celin, 1219 . Bryn y clawddian, 1020 . Bryn y ffynnon, 778 . Bryn y neuadd, 401 . Bryn y pys, 493 , 1023 . liryn yorkyn mountain, 260 , 454- Bryn y pil, 402 . Buckland, 186 , 1343 . 1396 INDEX OF PLACES. 1393 Buckland-house, 434 , 435 . Buckley-hill, 604 . Buckley mountain, 383 . Buck’s pool, 1033 . Buckstone, 919 , 1358 . Buildwas abbey, 1194 . Bulch fraine, 912 . Builth, 228, 237, 921. Bull-bay, 69. Bulleum silurum, 234 . Bullingham, 676 . Bullmoor, 270 . Bullybear, 1031 . Burlton, 1195 . Butter-hill, 1249 . Burford, 1274 . Burgh-hope, 692 . Burrium, 1313 . Burton, 345 , 547 , 591 , 643 . Burton court, 693 . Burton ferry, 901 . Bury farm, 671 . Bury-hill, 11 >, 3 . Bury-house, 692 . Bush, 591 , Buttington, 454 , 1191 ,n95> 1 3 1 7 - Bwamaen, 1082 . Bvvlch, 433. Bwlch agricla, 440 . Bwlch breccan, 949 . Bvvlch carreg y fran, 1270 . Bwlch coch, 864 , 1300 , 1302 . Bwlch craigwen, 1 O 52 . Bwlchc wm brwynog, 1202 . Bwlch drws ardudwy, 99 . Bwlch croes jorwerth, 785 . Bwlch edwyn, 319 . Bwlch glas, 1201 . Bwlchgwynt, 596 , 667 , 999 . Bwlch hill, 25 , 434 . Bwlch llanyrohyn, 952 . Bwlch oer ddrws, 461 . Bwlch pen y barras, 440 . 912 , 1167 . Bwlch y cae, 246 . Bwlch y cwm brwynog, 1203 . Bwlch y ddaufaen, 809 , 1049 . Bwlch y drum, 1006 . Bwlch y fedwen. 767 . Bwlch y gwyddyl, 325 , 720 . Bwlch y groes, 84 , 85 , 462 , 873. 94°. 1289 . Bwlchygyfyng, 1302 . Bwlch yr haiarn, 807 . Bwlch y pawl, 462 . Bwlch yr eisteddfa, 720 , 721 . Bwlch y rhiw felin, 438 , 783- Bwrdd Arthur, 66 . Bychton coaliery, 522 . Bydwellty, 27 . Bydwellty place, 1104 , 1108 . By ford, 645 . Bylchecochlyn, 864 , 1302 . Byletts, 696 . Byrnach’s well, 597 . Cader arthur, see brecon beacons. Cader ferwyn, 784 . Cader fronwyn, 748 . Cader Idris, evidence of it’s having been a volca- na, 240 ; excursion to and from Dolgelly, 242 . Cader gwladus, 447 . Cader segroit isaf, 797. Cadihill wear, 1359 . Cadlan, 1087 . Cadley, 828 , 1267 . Cadmia, 522 . Cadnant island, 648. Cadoxstonc, 253 , 961 , 964 . Cadwgan castle, g. Caebant, 973 . Cae cynta geffil, 186 . Cae ddafydd, 1302 . C.ie dwn, 454 . C.ie edris, 1302 . Cae gwilim ddu, 735 . Cae mawr, 44 , 863 . Caerau, 234 , 991 . Caerbannau, igg. Caer bont, 4 O 5 . Caerbwddy, 1240 . Caer caradoc, 211 , 677 , 1192 , 1193 . Caer cestish, 1306 . Caer crtigiau, 426 . Caer custeint, 284 . Caer din, 454 , 1163 . C aerdiff, 249; inns, cas¬ tle, 230 ; church, 251 ; harbour, canal, 252 . Caerdithel. 1366 . Caer drewyn, 404 , 1168 . Caer estyn, 259 , 456 , 657 . Caereau, 416 , go 6 , 1104 . Caer fach, 100 b. Caer fallwch, 1Q11. Caer foriog, 514 Caer gai, 82 , 888 . Caergwrle, 258 , 519 , 658 . Caer hun, 401 , 1197 . Caer hun hall, 809 . Caer idris, 73 . Caeriog brook, 1022 . Caer leb, 227 , 789 . Caerleon, 260 ; castle, church, 261 ; abbey, &c. market-house, 264 ; char¬ ity school, bridge, 264 . Caerllwyn, 1104 . Caermarthen, town-hall, 272 ; market-house, cas¬ tle, church, 273 ; fairs, markets, 274 , 303 . C aermarthenshike, 281. Caernarvon, 283 ; origin, castle, 284 ; eagle tower, 283 ; walk, church, 287; county-hall, prison, town hall, market-house, baths, hotel, 288; inns, plas mawr, trade, port, quay, custom house, 289; 294, Excursions from, 306, 3 2 8 . Caernarvonshire, 303.- Caerneh cop, 493 . Caeron, 235 Caerphii.lv, 3 O 5 , 238 . Caer rhos, 699 . Caerrhun, 4 ', 391 , 398 . Caer rhun castle, 293 . Caer sarn, 462 , 864 , 1302 . Caer semal, 1168 ; Caer sws, 793 , 1003 , 1006 . Caer twr, 648 . Caerwent, 311,318. Caer wyddno, 337 , 579 . Caerynwch, 462 . Caerwys, 313 , 321 . Cae y crochenydd, 186 . Cae y groes, 912 . Cae yr yffynon, 476 . Caldecot, 1236 . Caldecot castle, 317. Caldecot church, 318 . Caldecot level, 994 , 1044 . Caldy isle, 1281, 1283. Caldy, (little) 1282 . Caldwell rocks, 536 . Calettur river, 406 , 616 . Callow, 348 , 924 . Callow-end-green, 549 . Camanlack, 1267 . Camarch brook, 231 , 234 , Camddwr, 24 O. Camlais, 966 . Camlet bridge, 938 . Camlet river, 937. Camlin, 870 , 871 . Camlyn bay, 54 , 70 . Cammaron river, 1332 . Camnant, 973 . Camp of Caractacus, 1145 . Campston mountain, 643 . Campwood, 1313 . Carnros, 1245 . Canaston, 955 . Canniston bridge, 349 , 935 . Cann office, 319 , 1196 . Canon pyon, 643 . Canthriff, 433 . Cantleston ? 417 . Cantllefas, 330 . Cantreff, i 8 t, 897 . Cantrcff gwaelod, 379 . t399 Cantre’r gwaelod, 889 . Capel, 45 . Capel anhelog, 421 . Capel bettws, 1001 . Capel coelbren, 197 . Capel collwyn, 197 . Capel crynant, 964 . Capel Curig, 321 , 293 , 2 94> 3°’-. 3-5; excur¬ sions from, 322 , 324. Capel ddewy, 762 , 828 . Capel drinidad, 970 . Capel fair, 42 J. Capel foelas, 355 , 806 . Capel glyncollwyn, 897 . Capel ilkid, 25 , 183 , 190 . Capel llanfihangel, 997 . Capel llamltern, 1113 . Capel marlan, > 033 . Capel ogwen, 322 , 401 . Capel tump, nu. Capel y^gorlles, 7 1 . Capel y st. ffraidd, 7 1 . Capel y fine, 618 . Capel yn y wen, 737 . Capel yr havardiaui, 1 C 5 . Capler hills, 1355 , 1363 . Cappa yr wylfa, 33 . Carawswdick, 1237 . Car brook, 897 . Cardigan, 327. Cardigan bay. 671 . Cardiganshire, 337 . Carew, 1285 . Carew Castle,344j church 345> '<>3 6 - Car gwillim ddu cave, 3 . Cangweth house, 1314 . Carnau bach, 187 . Carnau meibion ovvcn, 397 . Cam boduon, 421 . Carnedd dafydd, 943 . Carneddau 43 , 92 , 99 , 238 , 767 , 1049 , 1 139. Carneddau, description of, 11 39- Carncddau, how formed, 7 h 7- Carnedd, dafydd, 717 , 734 , 735, 73 6 - Carnedd llewelyn, 297 , 402 , 7 1 7> 731> 735. 95 2 » “M. 1197 . Carnedd y filiast, 735 , 9 ( 9 . Carnedd y gwynt, 1208 . Carnedd y Lladron, 735 . Carncll’s point, 70 . Cam englyn, 671 , 996 , 997 . Carnlludw, 1237 . Cam madryn, 420 , 421 , 4 * 3 . 786 , 968 , 1120 . Carno mountain, 4 27 , 5 O 7 , 940 , 1006 , ioo 8 , 1010 . Carnochan, 1334 . Cam twrne, 594 . 46 INDEX OF PLACES Cam y castell, 166 . Caer brook, 1 H 9 . Carreg cennen, 279 . <• Carreg cennen castle, 360 , 741 . Carreg fihangel, 46 . Carreg liwfa, 815 , 818 . Carreg h wfa castle, 818 . Carreg Ivvyd, 79 , 401 . Carreg y dinas, 421 . Carreg y fran, 763 . Carreg y gwalch, 478 . Carreg y saesson. 990 . Carreg y saeth, 377 . Carreg y stumlSeth, 8f>2. Carrs, 346 . Canlett, 387 . Castell, 93 . Castella, 411 . Castell aber llienawg, 63 . Castell brogyntyn, 1021 . Castell brynllys, 201 . Castell byged, 705 . Castell cadwgan, 338 . Castell caer einion, 764 , 1320 . Castell cedwm, 118 , 297 , 1204 . Castell cefuddu, 9 . Castellcoch, 257 , 728 , 1112 . Castell coed lleion, 1049 . Castell coning, 594 . Castell corndoebon, 82 . Castell erwn, 70 . Castell cymaron, 1009 . Castell daybod, 703 . Castell dinas bran, 776 . Castell dinascortin, 99 ,' 578 . Castell dolforwyn, 773 , 1004 , 1010 . Castell du, 974 . Castell dwyran, 1287 . Castell flemys, 13 O 4 . Castell glas, 986 , 991 . Castell goedtrev, 709 . Castell gronw belyr o ben- Uyn, 79 . Castell gwgan, 423 , 786 . Castell gwynionydd. 973 . Castell gwythern, 97 G. Castell hafod, 512 . Castell henry, 597 . Castell in awr, Crj. Castell madoe, 181 . Castell maelgwn, 1292 . Castell malgwyn, 334 , 335 . Castell martin, 525 . Castell martin corse, 1031 . Castell moeddyn, 334 . Castell nadolig, an encamp¬ ment, 41 , 332 , 970 . Castell penrhyn, 101 , 320 . Castell piggin, 279, 713* Ca.tell pistog. 972 . Castell p/ysor, 13 O 1 . 1401 Castell sunnyhill, 1304 . Castell tinbott, 1140 . Castell y craig, 463 . Castell y geifr, 323 . Castell yndaleg, 671 . Castell yn doig, 9 . Castle ditch, 678 , 879 , Castle ditches, 1252 . Castle end, 547 -. Castle flemish, 593 . Castleford, 85 . Castle grounds, 689 . Castle-hall, 899 . Castle kissing hill, 937 . Castle lake encampment, 548- Castle northwich, 1012 . Castle pill, 900 . Castle river, 1092 . Castles, their kinds, 1047 . Castleton, 416 , 1029 . Castletown, 255 , 988 , 990 . Castruni dellanhefer, 1001 . Castrum pontii, 1230 . Caswcll-bay, 1018 , 1263 . Cathedine, 184 . Cathgenny river, 278 . Cat’s-ash, 1 O 43 , 1236 , 1313 . Caunant mawr, 405 , 715 , 1197 . C.mnaunt yr csgar, 324 , 1207 . Cave hill, 33 . Ciwnydd 320 . Cawsellantwd, 336 . Caynham, 137 , 854 . Caynham-court, 137 , 854 . Caynham castle, 854 . Cedgidog bridge, 1359 . Cedwm, 1197 . Cefn, 452 , 494 . Cefn amwlch 421 , 968 . Cefn bryn, 235 . Cefn caen, 938 . Cefn caer, 859 , 888 . Cefn carnedd, 793 , 1006 . Cefn castell, 7 b 8 . Cefn ceido, 1137 .. Cefn creini, 805 . Cefn deuddwr, 475 . Cefn diannel, 667 . Cefn digoli, 93 b. Cefn du, 520 , 946 . Cefn du hill, 296 . Cefn dyrris, 931. Cefn faes, 06 ". Cefn fford, 426. Cefn forest, 258. Cefn gellygaer, 309. Cefn gorwydd, 1283, Cefn hendre, 863. Cefn hengoed. 309. Cefn isha, 253. Cefn lewtref, 974. Cefn llyfnog, 822. 1402 Cefn llys, 1126. Cefn-llys-gwyn, 237. Cefn-llys-isaf, 765. Cefn-llys-uchaf, 765. Cefn mabley, 253. Cefn mavvr, 525. Cefn merthyr, 258. Cefn ogo rock, 33. Cefn pcnbrynllech, 401. Cefn pendager. 928. Cefn ucha, 387. Cefn uppol, 1007. Cefn y bedd lewelyn, 232. Cefn y brynn, 962. Cefn y bwich, 454. Cefn y castell, 819, 940, 1320. Cefn y coed, 456. Cefn y crib, 1103. Cefn y drew, 506. Cefn yr hafod, 257. Cefn y wern, 454, 493, 1022. Cedidoc, 32. Cegin, 746. Cegin river, 1114. Cegin y cythraul, 951. Ceibwr, 997. Ceint, 91, 299. Ceiriog river, 386, 454, 455, 457, 940. Cellan, 710. Celli ’r dewiniaid, 116. Cell y dewiniaid, 1210. Celsterston, 912. Cemmaes, 351, 69, 462, 507, 667. Cemmaes bychan, 462. Ccmmys commander, 1313. Cenarth, 663. Cenarth-bridge, 352. Cenfig. 417. Cenfon brook, 256. Cerdyn, 972. Cerdyn river, 237. Cerniooe, 353, 325, 326. Cerrig Uwydion, 1166. Cerrig y dkuidian, 351, 325, 458. Cerry, 943. Cefeny rivulet, 58. Cfynon ddyfnog, 447. Chamber’s court, 548. Chancery, 7, 41. Charlton-hill, 215. Charstone rock, 977. Cheltenham, 355; market, fairs, church, hospital, school, charities, 357; inns, boarding-houses, as¬ sembly-room, theatre, li¬ braries,banks, walk, 358; spa, 359; Montpelier spa, hygeia-house, hot baths, grotto, 361. INDEX OF PLACES. Chepstow castle, 364; priory, church, 368 ; bridge, trade, 369; inns, 370; park, 371, 923. Cheriton, 1264. Chester, 371 ; rows, cas¬ tle, 372; walls, 373; ab¬ bey, 574; library, 375; cathedral, 376; bridge, blue coat hospital, 379 ; house of industry, infirm¬ ary, jail, government, town-hall, manufactures, trade, engine-house, 580; race-ground, 381. Chirbury, 1008, 1196. Chirbury priory, 937. Chirk, andcastle,383, 444, 454,457, 1022, 1350. Chissell pill, 977. Cholstry, 695. Christchurch,261,263,264, 993, 994, 1044, 1045. Christ’s-church, Brec. 173. Churcham, 548. Churchdown, 549. Church stretton, 215, 859, 1192. Chwcfri river, 233. Cibranlwyd, 1267. Cidwelly, 659. Cidwm castle, 293, 295. Cil, 765,822. Cilcen, 911, 912. Cilcen hall, 911. Cilcennyn, 10, 1713. Cilcychwyn, 765. Cileaeron, 709. Cilfay hall 1265. Cilgetty, 1285. Cilgwgan fawr and C. fach houses 5. Cilgwyn, 999, 293. Cilgyvvn quarry, 946. Cilianaeron, 709. Ciliau aeron, 10. Ciliau-park, 10. Ctlmachen, 790. Cinmael house, 1219. Cil maen llwyd, 826, 958. Cilmeri, 231. Cilpill house, 11. Cilrhcdyn, 1289. Cilsaint, 268. Cilstaym, 1011. Cilyceithed, 1000. Cilydydd, 1302. Cil y graig, 973. Cinnamon grove, 599. Cistvaen, 43, 99, 1 16, 187. Cladwen river, 451. Clanchairon, 709. Clanevvstenin, 757. Clapsinny, 240. Clarach river, 863. 1101 i Clareston, 591. ft Clarwen river, 1352. ft Clasemont, 1265. Clatter, 1343. jjft Clawdd burarth, 973. Clawdd coch, 1198, 1204, ft 1206. ft Clawdd offa, 101,383, 453, ( 454, 676,781,815, 817, ( 910, 1008, 1022, 1145, { 1161. ( Clawdd y milwyr, 1237. Clearwell-house, 548. i Clearwen river, 237. Cledan river, 237, 240. Cleddau, 902, 955, 956, 957. Cleddau river, 237, 347, 582, 592, 902. Cledon river, 713. Cledoulch, 752. Clee hills, 853. Cleeve cloud hill, 262. Clefian river, 874. Clegyr. 1240. Clegyrbota, 1237. Clenncncy, 1051. Clcobury mortimer, 137. Clewedog, 1074. Clicciedeg, 797. Clifford, 645, 676, 695. Clifford castle, 613, 695, 921. Clifion, 220, 222. distantly, 745. Cliveham river, 278. Cloddiepaethion, 809. Clogcainog, 353. Clogwyn du’r arddu, 1197, 1203. Clogwyn du ymhen y gly- der, 323. Clogwyn y carnedd, 1200, 1203, 1205. Clegwyn y geifr, 949. Clogwyn y heliwr, 735. Clonjendy, 912. Cluernog mine, 37. Clun, 388. Clwyd river, 457, 520. Clwyd vale, 86, 101, 457, 1169. Clydach river, 194. Clydder, 734. Clydia, 1289. Clynoc, 389, 518. Clvnnog fawr, 423, 1121. Clyntha castle, 926, 1314. Clyro, 616. Clytha, 29. Clythacastlegateway,U35. Clyttwr, 863. Clyttwr river, 44, 706, 972. Cneifiwr brook, 1289. Cochwillan, 952. 1105 INDEX OF PLACES. 1107 Cockshutt, 1195. Coed edwyn, 315. Coed euloe,494, 604. Coed gantlais, 590. Coedgwydir, 402. Coed hyglan, 412. Coed isa, 770. Coed llai, 911. Coed mawr, 330, 736. Coed marchan, 1168. Coed riglana, 258. Coed talog, 320, 765. Coed talwrn, 454. Coed tracth, 1285, 1286. Coed tref, 1107. Coed wae, 942. Coed wae gate, 1195. Coed wynok, 669. Coed y bunedd, 1313. Coed y caerau, 1313. Coed y clawdd, 1006. Coed y cymer, 189, 897. Coed y llys, 456. Coed y monactuy, 988, 990. Coed y prior, 1107. Coetbran chapel, 965. Coetmor-mill, 950. Coeton arthur, 968. Coggan, 416. Cognacio brychan, 180. Coity, 390. Colby, 956. Coldblow, 279. Coldbrook, 267, 1315. Coldhrook-house, 2S, 1108. Coldbrook park, 926. Coldwell rocks, 1356,1361. 1364. Colcbrookdale, 215. Colford, 548. Colhugh, 1253. Collier’s mill, 677. Colunwy castle, 618. Colwinston, 417. Colwyn, 325. Comb, 643. Comlin, 870. Condover-housc, 859,1192. Conwy, castle, 391 ; abbey, church, 393; port, quay, river, ferry, 394. Conwy falls, 325, 806. Conwy river, 457. Conovium, near Conwy, 391, 746, 888. Capa’r’leni, 483. Copped wood hill, 553. Coppermine at Margam, 886 . Coppermine in Anglesca, 49. Coppermines, 302. Cornelach, 336. Cornice, 604. Corse inon, 967,1267. Corson, 1031. Corssyched, 1287. Cors y fisog, 1006. Cors y gedul, 98, 580. Coruc maw r, 329. Couwen, 403. Cosherston pill, 591. Cote, 222. Coiheridge, 1343. Cothy river, 751,752. Cotterill, 258, 413. Cownsylth, 605. Court, 1000. Court colman, 963" Court field, 554, 1356. Court henry, 276 745. Court herbert, 962, 964. Court-house, 157. Court robert, 1135. Court y dafydd, 1122. Court ygollen, 16,814. Cowarih river, 85. Cowbridge, 408, 390. Cowen river, 278,2S2. Coxwall knoll, 856, 1193. Coychurch, 211. Coytmor, 756. Crabhole, 1248. Cradock’s chapel, 1243. ( radock’s well, 904. ( raig breiddyn, 1320, Craig cencn castell, 737, 1080. Craig eglwyseg, 776, 783. Craig fechan, 783. Craig ferwyn, 438, 497. Craig garvv, 958. Craig hywel, 426. Craig llanwenarth, 23. Craig naullen, 572. Craig scbon, 950. Craig wen, 454. Craig y bretddcn, 768. Craig y cae, 246, 247. Craig y dinas, 75, 99, 290, 459,578,560, 797, 1031, 1070. Craig y deryn, 1299. Craig y dordd, 371. Craig y gaereyd, 1312. Craig y go, 320, 1006. Craig y gwyni, 461. Craig y llyn, 964. Craig y llyn fawr, 896. Craig y pare, 110. Craig y mwyn, 784, 942. Craig y pistyll, 462. Craig yr ailt, 257. Craig yresk, 1110. Craig yr Imbell, 1119. Craig v sacsson, 988. Cran, 765. Crannell river, 974. Craven-arms, 858. Cveden-hill, 642, 644. Cregennam river, 249. Crcgrina, 618. Cregynnog,943. Creiddin hundred, 396 400. Crcmline river, 524. Cremlyn monach, 61. Crescent grove, 973. Cresselly, 165, 346, 902. Cresswell, 346. Crew green, 819, 1195. Cribarth lime-rock, 197. Cnbcoch, 117, 1198, 1199. Crib y distill, 117, 1198. Cribyn clottas, an intrench- ment, 11. Cribyn oernant, 783. Criccieth-, 419, 295. Crick, 318, 981. Crickadarn, 199. Crickhowel, 424, 24. Crigell river, 71. Crigion chapel, 1195. ( roesor, 13C2. C ringell, 963. ( roesbon, 401. Croesefa, 912. Croesynyd, 401. ( roft, 462. Croft ambiey, 1324. Croft castle, 1118. 1324. ( rogen, 1022, 1 140. Crome couit, 879. Cromlechs, 8, 26,99, 183, 671, 673, 714, 818, 998, 1001 . Cromllyn bog, 1265. ( tondell, 336. Cronllwyn, 1000. Cronllwyn hill, 667. ('rose, 700. Crossgates, 1195. Cross foxes, 1219. Cross hour, 500. Cross inn, 276, 333, 745. Cross in hand, 548, 924. Cross penmaen, 987, 1100. ( rosswood, 39, 45. Crow castle, 774. Croyw ddwr, 705. Crucis abbey, 435. Crucis cwm, 435. Cruckton, 1196. Crtigiau cemaes, 668. ( rug yn udon, 973. Crug y swillt, 1286. Crumlin-bridge, 1103. Cryd tudno, 756. Cryg y dym,922. Crymlyn, 401. Cryw, 897. Cryw brook, 189. Cumlline, 462. Cursnah hill, 681, 695. Cwellyn lake, 118. Cwm, 521,698, 822. 1410 1403 INDEX OF PLACES Cwmaeron, 971. Cvvra alun, 441. , (.wm anest, 182. Cwm beeg, 1102 . ( vvm benoyn, 240. ('wm biga, 1074. ( wm bochlwyd, 718. Cwm bogin, 181. Cwm brochan, 793. Cwm brwynog, 465, 1197. Cwm bryn, 1263. Cwm bual, 949, 950. Cwm bwla bridge, 1267. Cwm bychan, 577. Cwm caseg 952. Cum ceiriog, 782. Cwm cerris, 970 Cwm cerwyn, 596, 998, 1001. Cwm cerwyn hill, 336. Cwm church, 464. Cwm clydach, 205. Cwm clydia. 1289. Cwm cothy, 752. Cwm cowdwyd, 952. Cwm croesor, 1269. Cwm cwmorddin, 1269. Cwm cyfeiliog, 1313. Cwm cywion,. 949. Cwm ddw hills, 434. Cwm delhi, 297, 325. Cwm du, 187, 189,897. Cwm dwr, 748. iwm dwyfrain, 279. Cwm dyli, 117. Cwmebwy, 987, 1100. Cwm ebwy fawr. 1101. Cwm cdeirneon, 405, 406, 10S9. Cwm elan, 793, 1140. Cwm elwy, 1112. Cwm ergir, 1096, 1352. Cwm erfyn mine, 338. Cwm fort, 699. Cwm geleddion, 183. Cwm glas,720, 945. Cwm gloyne, 999. Cwm graig du, 233. Cwm gwili, 279. Cwm hir, 1004. Cwm hondu, 179. Cwm idwal, 323, 718. ( wm iwbwb, 971. Cwm joy, 17. Cwm land, 1140. ( wm Han, 116, 1215, Cwm llanrwst, 478. ( wm lewelyn, 231. Cwm machen, 990. Cwm maentwrog, 497. Cwm mwydion, 46. Cwm mynach, 11. Cwm mythfe, 1102. Cwm nancoll, 578. Cwm nedd, 225. Cwm penllafar, 735, 736, 952. Cwm symlog, 383. Cwm symlog .hi 11, 42. Cwm symlog mine, 37,338. Cwm rhydiol, 45, 1095. Cwm sorwy, 987, 1100. Cwm tilery, 1100. Cwm tything hills, 573. Cwm wyd, 404. Cwm y glo llanrug, 1197. Cwm ystrad, 309. Cwm ystwith, 573, 1094. Cwm ystwith mine,37,339. t wrt brynn y beirdd, 73S. Cwrt garw, 186. Crvrtsion young, 172. Cwrty gaer. 1313. Cwtter yr euriachod, 950 C-wys itch bannog, 1305. Cych river, 1269. CyfFern, 1244. Gyftin, 320, 401. Cyfircdin valley, 44S. Cyfrwy, 248. Cvfyliog, 451. Cyglision, 604. CyHell, 595. Cylltth hirion, 43. Cyly wendeg, 1291. Cymin, 918. Cymmer abbey, 794, 1300. Gymmerau, 45, 819 822. Cymmyran sands, 71. Cynddelvv, 406. Cynlael falls, 496. 808. Cynfael river, 867. Cynfig, 887 , 1122 . Cynfig castle, 887, 1122. Cynfig lake, 8S7, 1 122. Cynniwyll, 765. Cynon, 310. Cynrig river, 187. Cynfil gain, 741, 751. Cynwyd, 405. Cywcllyn lake, 293, 295. Daeardor, or breaking of earth, S2. Dafydd ddu, 121 8. Dalar goch. 521. Dale, 1247. Dalecothy, 751. Dany graig, 32 Dany-park, 24, 813. Daren fach mine, 338. Daren fawr mine, 338. Daren yr ogof, 966. Darfold hill, 1323. Darnel river, 1352. Ddewi chapel, 761. Ddyfrog, 1240. Dean forest, 545, 546, 548, 1356. Dee river, 80. 85, 457, 940. Deep lake. 957. Delaudon, 1135. Defaudon git w, 571. Delaudon height, 923. Defy nock, 966. Delynock castle, 750. Dehono river, 1352. Denbigh, 441 ; castle, 442 ; town-hall, dispensary, church, inns, 444. Denbighshire, 453. Derfel gadarn, 406. Derry mount, 23, 27. Derry ormond, 709. Derw’entlas, 863. Derwtdd gam, 238, 1087. Desguilfa, 813. Deva, 371. Devereux wonton, 643,645. Devil’s cauldron, 1050. Devil’s pots 718. Devynock, 193. Devynock castle, 197. Dewisland, 515. Dickendale, 1118. Diganwy, 396. Diganwy castle, 293. Digedibrook, 203. Dihewid, 10. Dihonw river, 182. Dilwyn, 693. Dimetia, 281. Dinarddwig, - 260 , 292 . Dinas, 236, 756,950. Dinas bran castle, 408, 781, 1048. Dinas castle, 431. Dinas cerris, 970. Dinas pinole, 290, 292, 424, 951, 1121. Dinasdinorddwig, 301,746. 951. Dinas emrys, 115, 116,294, 1205, 1210. Dinas gonvvy, 396. Dinas gorfan, 290. Dinas gortin, 97. Dinas mowddu, 459. 85. Dinas porchellvn, 577. Dinas powis, 258. Dinastow, 926. Dinas sylwy, 66. Dinas y prif,,291. Dinbren hall, 783. Dinevawr, 71. Dinevavvr castle, 276, 316, 738. Di nh am, 462. Dinmore hill, 692. Dinmore house, 693. Dint hill, 1191, 1195. Dintle, 820. Dirty mile lane end, 383. Discocd 677. Diserih, Flint. 463, 521. 1413 Mil Diserth, Montgom. 1321. Disgwylfa, 198. Disgwylfa mountain, 426. Disynwy, 1302. Disynwy river, 244, 249. Dixon, 1358. Dixton, 1154. Dobb’s hill, 383. Doeklow, 699, 1343. Doghill, 678. Dogmael’s priory, 504, 665. Dolarddin, 768, 1320. Dolasgelog, 462. Dolaugwyn, 1302. Dolbadern castle, 644, 293, 294, 1197. Dolbenmaen, 1052. Dole finoc.rock, 1143. Dolfervvyn castle, 1010. Dolgadfen, 1010. Dolgaer, 235. Dolged, 764. Dolgelley, 466, 506. Dolgiog, 407. Dol Uanerch, 12S9. Dolobran, 945. Dolowen, 89,1114 Dolwen, 1008. Dolwyddelan castle, 477, 325, 326, 1197. Dol y coed, 236. Dolydd, 456. Dolyeorsllwyn, 462. Dol y felen castle, 293. Dol y maen, 767, 768. Doly melynllyn, 472, 474, 475, 1273, 1300. Doly mclynlvncottage, 795. Dongay common, 819. Dorington, 859. Dormington, 678. Dovey furnace. 44, 863. Dovey river, 85, 461, 940. Doward rock, 556, 1358, 1364. Downhouse, 548. Downing, 478, 523, 655. Downton, 675, 848. Downton castle, 157, 846, 855. Downton hall, 1125. Drake’s place, 549. Drcwson, 1245. Dripsill, 549. Drugarn,1087. Druidic circle, 958. Druidic monuments, 99, 671. Drum, 766. Drws ardudwy, 577. Druslyn castle, 280, 739. Drws y coed, 119, 293, 798. Drws y nant, 940. Dryburiows, 1028. Drygarn, 238. INDEX OF PLACES Duad river, 999. Dudley, 483. Duffryn ceirtog, 782. Dyffrin frvvd, 257. Dyffrin honddu chapel, 181. Dyffrin taff, 257. Duke’s-arms, 1112. Dulas, 231. Dulas rivulet, 58,614,1352. Doles river, 239. Duliw river, 1092. Du NR AVI N-ho use, 490 Durdam down, 222, 1235. Dwr cleivion, 514. Dwygyfylchcu, 401, 1049. Dwyryd river, 497, 581, S67, 1268. Dvvyvvyn cottage, 926. Dvflas, 864. Dyffryn, 822. Dyfryn alet, 446, 450. Dylryn ardudwy, 337. Dyfryn house, 258, 412. Dyfryn hwnant, 332. Dyfryn mymbr, 307, 1209. Dylifan, 942. Dymlyngum mine, 1075. Dytias, 1001. Dynastow, 28. Dynastow court, 29. Dynedor-hill, 641, 1362. Eagles bush-house, 418. Eardesley, 676. Eardistone, 139. Eirdsland, 696. Eare wear, 1286. Earlston, 1343. Fastham, 1343. Eastnor. 678, 879. Eaton, 381,698, 1343. Eaton-hall, 383. Eaton hill, 1364. Ebnal, 697. Ebwy fRch, 1100. Ebwy fawr, 1100. Ebwy river, 255, 930, 990, 1100. Eccles-green, 644 Eccleston, 381. Ecclusham, 1162 1350. Edderton house, 938. Edeirnion, 404, 405, 406, 1168. Edow river, 1752. Edwin’s ford, 708, 741,752. Efel fach, 1321. Eglwysdinas, 997. Eglvvys fach, 44, 863. Eglwysilan mountain, 257, 309. Eglwys newydd, 39, 564. Eglvvys nunydd, 884, 887. Eglwys rhos. 397. EgUvyscg rocks, 779. Eglvvysnynidd, 417. Eglwyswrw, 336, 667, 673. Egwcstvale, 408. Eifl mountain, 1121. Einion river, 44, 85. Eisteddfodd, 315, 1099. Eistcd fa gurig, 1096. Elan, 952. Elan falls, 573, 953. Elan fraed, 44. Elan river, 1140, 1352. Ellesmere, 492. Ellesmere canal and aque¬ ducts, 386, 457. Elton, 853, 1118. Elwy river, 448. Ely-hridge, ”58. Ely river, 525. Encampments, 8, 9, 11, 26, 27, : 0, 180. Encrochi, 657. Endwall river, 698. F.nerglyn, 309, 11 12. Enion sais castle, 193. Eniskel, 599. Ensdon house, 1191 Enwrgarreg, 451. Erddig, 456, 494, 1161, 1350. Erifiat, 1215. Ermine-street, 135. Erwhenlas, 1302. Eryri, 321. Esail fach, 963. Escair hir mine, 338. Escair vraith mine, 338. Escair y mwn m:ne, 339. Escir vale, 179. Escle river, 8 14. Esgair frailh, 942. Esgair geiliog, 864. Esgair hir, 942. Eskir river, 748i Eskynald, 1095. Estyn, 519. Euloe castle, 494. Euloe green, 910. Eur glawdd, a mine, 44. Ewan’s rocks, 1361. Ewenny 417. Ewenny-bridge, 417. F.wenny priory, 494. Ewias mountain, 813. Evvias vale, 30, SI 1. Eye, 688. Eye isle, 479. Eyton-hall, 699 Eywood, 643, 644, 674, 1116. Eywood warren, 643. Facnor, 701,765,943, 1008, 1139. Facnor park. 1321. Fair fach, 737. 1410 1414 Fairy cave, 451. Falden, 1126. Fall, sec Rhaiadyr. Falls of the conwy. 325. Fanned fawr, 1302. Farndon,381, +53,519. Fanoel, 783. Farson, 1035. Farthing’s hook, 597. Fawley court, 1364. Fedw aeg, 801. Feleu wen, 71. Felinder marchog, 998. Felindre, 11 , 713,334, 673. Fendre fucli, 973. Fern hall, 857. Fern hill, 587. Ferry house, 757. Ffestinioc, 496, 804, 808. Ffordd helen, 497, 512, 1270, 1288. Fford y Hadron, 512. Ffos ffin, 334. Flos rhufeiniaid, 952. Ffrwd, 240. Ffynnon asi, 464. Ffvnnon au, 1291. Ffynnon bed’r, 402. Ffynnon cegn arthur, 714, 746. Ffynnon craig ceffyl, 737. Ffynnon ddewi, 333. Ffynnon ddyfnog, 797. Ffynnon degmen, 1029. Ffynnon drewllyd, 236. Ffynnon dydecho, 767. Ffynnon elian,760. Ffynnon elwad, 572,1306. Ffynnon erfyl, 766. Ffynnon fair, 451, 1061, 1217. Ffynnon frech, 714 , 1201 . Ffynnon gad fan, 320. Ffynnon genau,430. Ffynnon illtid, 183 . Ffynnon las, 117 , 721 , 1198 , 1210 . Ffynnon leinw, 911 . Ffynnon ligwy, 953. Ffynnon lyffnant. 402, 809. Ffynnon moel rhiwen, 714 . Ffynnon pen rhys, 178 . Ffynnon pen y gaer, 714 . Ffynnon wervel, 333. Ffwrn, 3083 . Filbatch, 1248 . Filhampton, 859 . Fishguard, 500 ; port, bay, 503; church, meeting¬ houses, 504 ; improve¬ ments, 505; 1400 of the french land, get drunk, and are taken, 508. Fishguard bay, 667. Fittes, 820. INDEX OF PLACES Flanesford priory, 553. Flat holmes, 252 , 416 . Flaxley abbey, 545, 548. I lemingstone, 415 . Flemish way, 1002 . Fletherhill, 592. Flint, 315 ; castle, 516 ; church, guildhall, jail, inn, 517 . Flintshire, 518 . Flintwood, 336. Foelas hall, 805. Fuel goch, 949. Foes gyrick, 1240 . Fonmore, 416 . Ford, 820 , 1193 . Forden, 765 , 933 , 938 , u o 8 . 1321 . Forden chapel, 1321 . Forden heath, 434 . Forest bank, 1267 . Forthampton, 548. Foss road, 133 . Fos y cenglau, 240. Four crosses, 757. Four mile bridge, 560. Fownhope, 1363 . Foxley. 642, 644, 694, 921. Frampton ham, 1252 . Frankwell, 1195 . Fraw rivulet, 58. Frenny fawr, 664. Friar’s island, 97. Fridd, 765. Frome hill, 699. Fron, 85 , 908 , 912 . Fron farm, 781 . Fron fawr, 783. Fron felin, 864. Fronfraith, 42,45. Fronmore castle, 256. Fron y fuel isal, 476. Fron y foel uchaf, 476. Froom river, 215 . Frwd cynon river, 7 10 . Frwdeu henllan, 971 . Frwd fawr, 862. Frwd river, 1094 Frynwy river, 766 , 772 , 774 , 813 , 822 , 911 , 94 O. Gabalfa, 257. Gaer, 750, 990. Gardden, 763 , 1163, 1359 . Gaer ditches, 836 , 1193 . Gaer, encampment of, 170 , 193 , 203 , 1008 . Gaer fawr, 1313 . Gaer fychan, 1007 . Gaermorrice, 711 . Gaer mountain, 17 , 27 , 28 . Galasbach, 912 . Galt faennan, 1217 . Gallt y gwg, 353. Gallt yr aner, 822. Gam, 271. Gamons, 645. Ganllwyd, 580. Ganston, 642. Garawen morgan, 897. Garden, 545. Grrengyr, 41 . Garfa river, 474. Gam, 43 S, 949 , 1215 . Garnstone, 643, 694. Garnfawr, 31 O. Garreg, 45, 482, 862, 863. Garte gynnan, 783. Garth, 234 , 1320 . Garth beibio, 767. Garth brengy, 177 . Garthewin, 447. Garth gell, 771 . Garth house, 239. Garthmell, 765. Garthmill, 911 , 1321 . Garthmylog, 40 i. Garw, 525. Gaslys, 291 . Gatron, 791 . Gellauerin mine, 338. Gelli, 481 , 7 13 . Gelli faliog, 896. Gelli faur, 1000 . Gelli gaer, 309. Gelli galed, 964. Gelli gassons, 764. Gelli gelynen, icoo. Gelli hyr, 1264. Gelliswick, 1249 . Gemrhiw, 238. Genarew, 1154 . Genoved lodge, 6 t 8 . Gerddi bluog, 866 . Gern ddu, 423. Gern goch, 423, 735. Gernos, 972. Gest, 1032 . Geri castle, 463. Gilestield, 1320 . Giles’s, st. 215 . Giltar, 1282 . Gimlet, 420. Glamorganshire, 523. Gian bran, 1305 . Gian bran park, 750. Glandwr, 1307 . Glangwnna, 120 , - 295 . Glanhafren, 938. Glannauch, 64. Glanndwyd, 1166 . Glanrannel, 731 . Glanryd, 1287 . Gian y groes, 105,864,1053. Glanyn wll, 383. Glasbury, 203, 618, 1353. Glasbury bridge, 616. Glas llyn, 860, 1072. Glaster, 668 . Glenheir waterfall, 744. 1417 INDEX OF PLACES. Glesyrch river, 864. Gliseg rocks, 438. Globwll, 711. Glocester, cathedral, 526; college library, 536. Gloddaeth, 391, 399, 398. Glol, 483. Glvvysig, 1108. Glyderbach, 322, 324, 719, 948, 1209. Glyder fawf, 323, 324. Glyder mawr,717,719,734, 948, 949, 1209. Glyn, 454, 761. Glynamel, 506. Glyn bridge, 86 . Glyn ceiriog, 782. Glyn duffis, 83. Glyn dwrdwy, 404, 406, 1168. Glyn dwrdwy park, 407. Glyn dyfrdwy, 779. Glyn hafren,790,791, 1072. Glyn llifon, 421. Glyn llugwy, 807. Glyn maw, 1300. Glyn rhanwy, 296. Glyn rygoes, 964. Glyn tawe, 965. Glyw, 229. Glywedggau rivers, 711. Gnoll, 225. Gnoll castle, 1266. Gob annium, 14. Gobowen, 387, 455, 783, 1022. Gogarth peninsula, 45, 400, 755. Gogerthan, 42, 47, 863. Goginan mine, 338. Goldcliff, 986, 994. Golden grove, 276, 219. Golden post, 245. Golden vale, 642 Golftyn, 1011, Golwg y byd, 280. Goodwich beach, 508. Goodrich castle, 549. Goodrich cross, 1154. Goodrich priory, 553, 1356 . Goodwich sands,507. Goosepool, 645. Gorid bridge, 515. Gors fochno, 42, 44. Gorphwysfa, 91, 720, 945, 1264. Gower (peninsula of) 525. Goytre, 1107. Grace dieu abbey, 29, 927. Graidd, 965. Graig, 558, 645, 924. Grawnell river, 706. Great birch, 548. Great garth hill, 257. Great ness, 1191. Great neston, 382.J Great orme’shead, 755. Greddington, 520. Greenbridge in wales, 278. Green castle, 278. Green field, 326, 418. Green field monastery, 99. Green grove, 10. Green haven, 811. Green meadow, 257. Gregynnog, 773, 1010. Gp.esford, 556, 259, 457, 657. Gresford lodge, 557. Greyhound bitch kennel, 412. Gribyn, 1242. Grogwynion, 45. Gromcelli river. 864. Gronant moor, 483. Grongar hill, 276, 739. Grosmont, 558, 923 Grove, 350, 1035, 1167. Grunny river, 24. Gruslwyn castle, 218. Guilsfield, 937. Gurry, 740, 752. Gwadan river, 1242. Gwaedig, 1248. Gwaen yscor, 483, 521. Gwaen ynog, 450, 764. Gwallawg, 337. G wanos, 767. Gwarafog, 231.23 4. Gwasanneu, 908. Gwastedyn hill, 1139. Gwayn river, 999. Gwdhvvglas, 1049. Gwclly gwyddfarch, 822. Gwelly taliesin,42. Gwendraeth fawr vale 560. Gwendraeth fychan river, 560. GwenfFrwd, 180. Gwent. 928. Gwern ddu, 773, 823. Gwern einion, 578. Gwern felu, 937. Gwern alt lodge, 618. Gwern degla, 438. Gwern haylod, 493, 1023. Gwern Uwynwhyth, 962. Gwern vale, 427, 431. Gwern ville common, 821. Gwern y cleppa, 255, 990. Gwern y fign, 819. Gwersyllt, 456, 1359. Gwersylt hall, 558. Gwespyr, 483. Gwessin river, 237, 240. Gwhelwg, 1313. Gwingrig, 279. Gwladus’s chair, 198. Gwnnws, 1505. 1 119 Gwrfai river, 424. Gwrth wynt ucha, 713. Gwyddelwern, 1168. Gwydderig, 751. Gwydderig river, 194, 196, 747. Gwydir, 402, 418, 802,806, 809. Gwydir upper, 803. Gwydryn hill, 75. Gwygfair, 452. Gwygir river, 70. Gwynar orgulad, 1126. Gwyndy, 560, 111. Gwynedd, 294. Gwyneddigion society, 316. Gwyn fynydd, 1006. Gwynlynydd y caer fechan, 793. Gwytherin, 446, 451, 653, S04. Gym wynas, 497. Gynas, 1167. Hadnock, 550. Hadnock-house, 1558. H afod, 561,45. Hafod arms inn, 793, 1089. Hafod dai, 117. Hafod y bwch, 1359. Hafod y nos, 447. Hafod y porth, 881,882. Hafod yr abad, 438. Hagley, 137, 150. Hairford, 205. Hakin, 599,899. Hales abbey, 362. Hales-owen, 137. Halkin, 518,520,521,604, 912. Halkin hall, 604,912. Hallow, 1343. Halston, 492. Hamcourt, 548. Hampton.bishop, 678. Hampton-court, 645, 1345. Hanley, 1343. Hanley-court, 138,549. Hanley green, 549. Hanmer, 1215. Han mere, 1195. Hanmer’s cross, 645. Hanbridgc, 381. Hardwick cliff, 1361. Hardwick green, 645. Hardwick house, 919. Haroldstone, 587, 1245. Harewood, 548, 1355. Harewood end inn, 548. Harlech, 513. Harlscot, 1195. Harpton, 618, 675. Harpton court, 1125. Hartsheath, 911,1359. Haskard, 1249. 1120 INDEX OF PLACES. 1422 « ilatierel lulls, 31,618, 641, 813. Haverfordwest. 5S1 ; cas¬ tle, churches, 582; townhall, 583 ; jail, free-school, public walk, priory, 5S5; inns, mar¬ kets, fairs, assizes, Per- dergast, 586. Haw’arden, 600; castle, 602; church, park, 003; Hawkestone, 605; man¬ sion, summer-house, the gulf, grotto, 606 ; awful precipice, vis a vis, Pao- lis’ point, the retreat, her¬ mit, fox’s knob, st. Fran¬ cis cave, 607; terrace, obelisk, tower, bury walls, camp, tower, glen, urn, red castle, 60S; gi¬ ant’s well, a scene at Ota- lieite, piece of water, Neptune’s whim, Amphi- trite’s flowergarden, 609. Hawitswood, 1356. Hay, 610. Haydon hill, 363. Hays, 850. Haythog, 957. Head of man. 1031. Heactshcath.hall, 658 Heathall pit, 548 Heath-cock public-house; 196. Heathfield lodge, 595,1261. Heathy bog, 319. Hebog, see Moel Hebog. Hedd molwynog, 447. Hell’s mouth, 420. Helygenywern, 604. Henbury, 222. Hencastle, 1285. Hen coed, 761. Henddinas, 455, 506, 1020. Hcndre, 451. Hendref, 669. Hendre fach, 1127. Hendref cymry, 1289. Hendre foffion, 476. Hendre gate, 336. Hendre rhys gethen, 801. Heneglwys, 93. Hen feddau, 705, 1288. Hen fford, 512. Hen fwlch mine, 338. Hen fynyw, 334. Hen gastcl, 290. Hen gwm, 763, 1320. Henley, 137. Henley-hall, 853. Henllan,446,450,970,971, 1029. Ijten llys, 447, 993, 999. Henneuadd, 197. Henniarth, 764. Hennoyadd, 1266. Henog river, 237. Hensham ferry, 1364. Hensol, 409, 418. Henry’s moat, 597. Henwick, 1343. Henwood, 643. Heol cnion, 199. Herbranstone, 1249. Hereford, 619; cathedral, 621; it’s interior, 625; nave, library, 627; se¬ pulchral memorials, 629; font, 631 ; cloisters, 632 ; our lady’s .arbour, school 632; bishop’s palace, deanery, college, cathe¬ dral yard, members of the cathedral, 633; churches, st. Peters, all Saints, 634; st. Martins,st. Nicholas’s, monastery, 635; cross, Coningsby’shospital,63G; st. Giles’s hospital, st. Ethelberl’s almshouse, the infirmary, charity sc bool, w ork-house,coun¬ ty goal, 637; city goal, shire hall, 638; trade, wye bridge, theatre, 639; inns, castle green walk, white cross, 640. Herefordshire beacon, 875. Heriri nrons, 498. ldesp alun, 911. Hewletts, 362. Hidefield, 643. Higher cynfig, 881. High tor wood, 902. High grove, 545. Hill, 1249. Hilhree isles, 479. Hill-court, 1 152. Highnam, 545, 547, 548. Hill house, 32. Hilton, 1245. Hiog river, 515. Hiraetlmg hills, 458. Hirdrefiaig, 92, 111. Hirwaun fawr. 964. Hirwaun manufactory, 1088. Hirwaun vvrgan, 1087. Hobnash, 697. Hockleton, 1196. Hoggeston, 1037. Holmer, 645. Holmes, flat and steep, 252, 308. Holm-lacy, 1354, 1362. Holt, 646, 453. Holtcastle, 1343. Holtheath, 1343. Holyhead, 647; college, church, school, assembly room, baths, lighthouse, jl" 71, 302. Holyland, 1035. Holywell, 651,456, 521. [If 1 Honddy river, 17,181. Hope, 656', 456, 1359. Hope baggot, 137. Hope church; 692. Hope under dinrnor, 645. Hoptoncourt, 137. Hoptdn-end. 873. Hopton wafers, 137. Horeh, 972. Horn, 643. Hore rivulet, 1074. Horse block, 1032. Horton, 788. How caple, 1364. Howelstone, 1246. Howcl y pcdolau, 4. Hovycy common, 753. Howton, 645. Hubberstone, 1249. Hubberstone haiken, 901. Hubberstone priory, 599. Hack’s barn, 850. Hudnell’s bills, 1359. Hugh Lloyd’s pulpit, 497. Humprey, 1246. Hundred house, 1343 . . 1 Huntington, 643. Huntley, 547, 548. Huntlcy-hill, 547. Hurst. 643. Hwlkin, 1167. Hyer’s gate, 980. Hysfa, 953. Hyslabcngam, 1208. Ikenield-street, 135. lltid chapel, 966. Iltid’s hermitage, 25 , 183 . Ilton valley, 370. Ingeston house, 1364. Ingo’s tomb, 381 , Inys llochdu, 971. Inysygewrn, 963. Irvon river, 229, 231,234, 1352. Isaled, 457. Is carreg, 859. Isca silurum, 260. Iscoed, 790. Isdulas, 457. Iseston, 1029. Isgar gallad mines, 1075 . Isle of seals, 70. Ispittv istvvith, 572. Istrad rneirig, 572. Ither river, 1323 . Ithon bridge, 239. Ivington camp, 681, 6S9. Ivy tower, 1037 . Jestingtown, 1029 . Johnson, 903. 1425 1423 Julia strata, 270, 985,1234, 1252. Kelstcrston, G04. Kemeys inferior or folly, 270, 1259. KenchCster, 642, 044, 645. Kenderchurch, 645. Kbnnersley castle, 644. Keven y bcdd, 259. Kerry, 157, 677. Kidderminster, 137. Kidwelly, 659,canal,661. KlLCERRAN CASTLE, 662, 8, 335. King’s acre, 644. King Arthur's hall, 1358. King’s caple, 1355. Kingshead, 713. Kingsland, 696, 697,1325. King’s turning, 1117. Kincton, 674, 11 17, 1344. Kingweston hill, 221. Kingmael house, 32. Kinnerslcy, 695. Kinnerton, 677. Kinsham, 1118. Kinsham-court, 698, Ills. Kirewood, 139. Knighton, 676, 454. Knightsford bridge, 1343. Knochin, 821. Knoll, 961, 967. Knowle-hill. 222. Knucles, 677. Kroghall, 336. Kymin, 918. Kymin rocks, 1358. Kymmer abbey, 98, 41l, 473. Kynaston cave, 821. Lady lift, 642, 644, 694. Lady oak, 1194. Laister church, 698. Laleston, 417, 1122. Lamjwrch, 1006. Lamphey-court, 881, 1285. Lttndshipping quay, 347 590. Langland, 411. Langor’s pool, 25. LangWorth, 678. Laques, 809. Larkhill, 3347 Laughton, 696. Lavan sands, 1, 87, 106, 107,771, 1049, 1050. Laurehny, 346, 347, 351, 590, 902. Lawton, 1013. Lea, 546, 547. Lea bailey, 546, Leadbrook minor, 1011. Leadbrook major, 1011. Leasowes, 137, 139. INDEX OF PLACES, I.ebotwood, 859. Lechweddisaf, 1049. Leckhampton hill, 363. Ledbury, 678. Lcdwich-brook, 137. Leeswood, 441, 658, 910, 1359. Leidet house, 371,920. Leighton, 215, 1321. Leighton hall, 454,938. Leintwardine, 848, 855. Lenthall, 1118. Leominster, derivation, si¬ tuation, buildings, 679; sieges, 680, 681; manor, church, 682; clock, bells, tower, windows, 683; in¬ congruous alterations, in¬ terior, priory, house of industry, town-hall, 684; market house, court¬ house, goal, corporation, grammar school, ladies’ boarding school, library, societies, trade, 685; alms house, assemblies, an¬ gling, walks, rides, castle, population, 686; inns, 687 ; 844. Lery river, 863. Lether, 1242. Lettardsten, 595. Letton, 645. Leucarum, 827. Lewis’s iron works, 728. Lirkhill house, 138. Lidbrook, 554, 1356. , Lidncy, 975. Lime grove, 401,1059. Limor park, 454, 936. I.indridge 1343. Linney, 1031. Linney point, 1031. Linton, 546. Lisworhey, 417. Little dean, 975. Little haven, 1246. , Little hereford, 1275. Little knott, 961. Little london, 548. Little manscl, 64'C Little mollington, 382. Little monkswood, 1106. Little newcastle, 593. Little stretton, 859. Llacharn, see Llaucharn. Llai, 456. Llain y sebedau, 513. Llallth gwyn, 1052. Llamphey, 1036, 1037, 1224. Liam y Uadrtvn, 1300. Llan, 764. Llan acthaiearn, 423. Llanafan, 39, 45* Llanafonfach, 230. Llanafon fawr, 240. Llanafon fcchan, 233. Llanailywyon, 187. Llanallgo, 69. Llanano, 703. Llanarch, 334, 672. Llanarch court, 926. Llanarmon, 438, 439, 782. Llanarmon bychan, 782. Llanarth, 41, 1104. Llanarth castle, 1135. Llanasa, 483, 521. Llanbadern fach, 6. Llanbadern fawr, 701; 8, 45, 47, 1127. Llanbadarn fynydd, 703, 1008. Llanbadarn odwynne, 12. Llanbadarn trefcglwys, 6, Llanbadarn y creuddyn uchau, 1096. Llanbaddoc, 269, 1311, 1314. Llanbadric, 69, 70. Llanbadrog, 420. Llanbeblic, 120, 290. Ll anhedr, Caerd. 704. Llanbedr, flint. 912. Llanbedr, Mcrion. 476,497; 580, 888. Llanhedyr cen ny ti, 402,809, Llanberis, 71 , 294,301, 324,325,946, 951. Llanberis lakes, 294. Llanbister, 703, 1139. Llanbithian, 723, 414, 417 . Llanbradach-house, 309. Llanbryn mail', 767, 940. Llanbulan, 762. l.lancamddwr, 235. Llancarfon, 415. Llancarno, 1009. Llanchaiarn castle, 41. Llanconvell, 239. Ll andai'f, 724, 258. L'.andaff court, 258. Llandair, 43l. LUndanwg, 476. Llanddeiniol, 7. Llanddewi Abetarth, 6,41. Llanddinam, 793. Llandebie, 1079. Llandecwyn, 866, 868. Llandefalle, 199. Llandecai, 729, 285, 326. slate quarry. 731, 1120. Llan dc faen, 737. Llandegfan, 91, 105. Llandegla, 438,457. Llandegle, 783. Llandegles, 1125. Llandegles wells, 1126. Llandeilo bcrtholly, 16,30. U26 INDEX OF PLACES. 1428 Llandeilo cresseney, 28, 927. Llandeilo Fawr, 737. Llandeiniolen, 745, 301. Llanderfel, 406, 785. Llanddinam, 1006,1008. Llanddiniolen, 290. Llanddew, 176, 159, 179, 192, 1230. Llandewi, Card. 703. Llandewi, Pem. 1287. Llanddewi aberarth, 337. Llanddewi abergwessin, 237, 240. Llanddvvror, 279, 824. Llandewi brefi, 708, 712, 1305. Llanddew ir cwm, 182. Llanddwyn, 74, 300. Llanddwyn point, 73. Llandidno, 449. Llandifriog, 971. Llandilo fawr, 195, 282. Llandilo graban, 617. Llandinabo, 548. Llandingad, 748. Llandinier, 765. Llandoget, 457. Llandogo, 925, 1293, 1359, 1362, 1365. Llandonna, 66. Llandough, 416. Llandovery, 746,282,283, 707. Llandreinio, 819. Llandrillo, 86 , 406, 756. Llandrillo yn rhos, 757. Llandrindod, 753. Llandrindod wells, 229,238. 753. Llandrinio, 1195. Llandudno, 755. Llandulas, 725. Llandwr, 963. Llandwrog, 797. Llandwy, 1008. Llandyfrydog, 762. Llandygwy. 1230. LJandygwydd, 331. Llandyrnog, 912, 1167. Llandysilio, 76, 298, 405, 408, 454,779, 819, 821, 1071, 1196, 1288. Llandysiliogogo, 41, 333, 970. Llandyssul, 706, 943, 970, 972. Llandyvaelog, 661 . Llanedwen, 758, 75, 301. Llanegwest, 435, 783. Llaneigrad, 69. Llanelian, 759, 69. Llanellen, 1106, 1107. Llanelltyd, 1300. Llanelly, 761, 282. Llanelwedd, 233. Llanelwedd house, 239. Llanerch, 452, 656,1217. Llanerchymedd, 762,299. Llanerchymor, 482. Llanerfyi, 765,767,1006. Llanfabon, 309. Llanfachreth, 71. Llanfaelog, 71. Llanfaes, Anglesea, 56, 61, 105,110. Llanfaes, Caerm. 3. Llanfaes friary, 731. Llanfaethle, 70. Llanfair, Anglesea, 560, 763. Llanfair, Dcnb. 1168. Llanfair, Merion. 476, Llanfair, Mon. 981. Llanfair, Montgom. 764. Llanfair, Radnor. 677. Llanfair ar y brynn, 747. Llanfair clydogau, 711. Llanfair dothaearn, 447. Llanfair fechan, 770, 4, 401. Llanfairyng hornwy, 70. Llanfair iscaer, 298, 301. Llanfair iscoed castle, 769. Llanfair mathafern eithaf, 68 . Llanfair mine, 338. Llanfair orllwyn, 972. Llanfair pwl gwyngyll, 75. Llanfair y bryn, 195. Llanfairymhault, 229. Llanfaply, 28, 928. Llanfasches, 1043. Llanfaughan, 706, 974. Llanfawr, 86 , 407. Llanfechan, Brecon. 231, 233. Llanfechen, Mont. 1196. Llanfechel, 69. Llanfernach mountain, 336. Llanferris,440. Llanfey, 1230. Llanfihancel, 91, 1006. Llanfihangel Abercwm, 278. Llanfihangel Abergwessin, 234, 237, 238, 240. Llanfihangel al castellgual- ter, 42. Llanfihangel capel edwin, 44. Llanfihangel crickhornell, 17, 26, 30, 645. Llanfihangel din sylwy, 67. Llanfihangel fechan, 180. Llanfihangel fedw, 989. Llanfihangel genau'r glyn, 42. Llanfihangel glyn y myryv 352. Llanfihangel-house, 20. Llanfihangel nant melan, 1126, 1127. Llanfihangel pont y moel, 1106. Llanfihangel tal y llyn, 184, 185. Llanfihangel tor y mynydd, 371. Llanfihangel tre’r bardd, 762. Lanfihangel ycreiddyn, 46. Llanfihangel y pennant, 248, 1300. Llanfillo, 198. Lanflewy n, 70. Llanfoist house, 32. Llanfwrog, 71. Llanfyllin, 771,498,935, 1191. Llanfrynach,Brec. 159,186, 193. Llanfyrnach, Pem. 1288. Llanfyrnach mountain,1288 Llangadfan, 319, 767. Llangadog castle, 740. Llangadwalader, 72, 300. Llangamarch, 231,234,239. Llanganton, 231. Llangar, 86 , 405. Llangarish, 279. Llangasty, 184. Llangasty tal y llyn, 183. Llangattoc, 24, 174, 1315, Llangattoc cresseny, 741. Llangattoc house, 926. Llangedwin, 800. Llangedwin hall, 775. Llangelflach, 967. Llangefni, 73, 93, 299,762. Llangeinor, 963. Llangeitho, 11 . Llangelynin, 249. Llangeney, 429. Llangernew, 447. Llangerig, 792, 793, 921, 1098, 1352. Llangibby, 269, 709, 1120, 1314. Llangibby castle, 269, 271. Llangibby-house, 269. Llangnis church, 231. Llangoed, 1353. Llangoed castle, 615, 618 , 921. Llangoed mawr, 329, 330, 671, 966. Llanoollen, 774. Llangollen vale, 407. Llangonoyd, 225, 963. Llangorse, 184. Llangorse mere, spe Llyn safaddan. 1429 INDEX OF PLACES. 1131 Llangowcr, 81, 85. Llangranach house, 762. Llangranwg, 333. Llangristiolis, 93. Llangronog inn, 9. Llangrunney, 430, 1312. Llar.grunney inn, 32. Llangua priory, 27. Llangunner hill, 276. Llangwn, 588. Llangwnllo, 971. Llangwyfen, 71,76, 1167. Llangwyllo, 93. Llangyndeyrn, 1267. Llangynidr-bridge, 206. Llangynnog, Brec. 182. Llangynnog, Mcnon. 84. Llangynnog, Mont. 783, Llangynodel, 968. Llangynfelin, 44, 863. Llanhaiarn, 786, 390. l.lanhamlech, 182. J.lanhamlech fan, 183. l.lanhamlog, 433. I lanharcn, 211 . Llanenock, 1314. Llanhiddel, 1103. Llanrhian, 159. Llanrhyddlad, 70. Llanrhvvydrus, 70. Llanrhydd, 1165, 1168. Llamhystyd, 6,12,41, 713, 971. Llanridian, 1061. Llanrihan,513. Llanrug, 746. Llanrwst, 800, 302, 326. Llanrynach, 417. Llansadwen, 111. Llansaitrtfraid, 6 , 41, 183, 407, 433,435,926, 1136, 1196. Llansamlet, 962, 967. I.lansannon, 446, 450, 451. Llansawel, 226, 708, 740, 741. Llansilian, 713. Llansilin, 1120. Llanspyddid, 159, 192,196, 750. Llanstadwell, 346, 591. Llanstephan, 809. Llanstephan castle, 276. Llan st. sior, 1219. Llanhilling mountain,! 126. Llantarnam encampment. Llanhaudden castle, 955. Llania, 46. I.lanichloidog, 996. Llanidan, 787, 74, 904. Llanidloes, 789, 935. Llanilid, 966. 264. Llantarnam house, 268. Llantecwyn isa, 868 . Llantecwyn ucha, 868 . Llantcgwin, 581. Llanthony abbey, 811,16. Llanilltyd, Merion. 794, l.lantinan, 595. 98, 476. Llanilltyd fawr, Gla. 1252. Llaninadoc, 1264. Llanio, 709. Llanio isau, 708, 1305. Llanina, 334. Llan ion, 591. Llaniskin, 371. Llanjestin, 67, 968. I.lanlafryn, 937. Llanlaudy, 924. Llanlir, 703. Llanllavver, 1000. Llanllear, 11,713. Llanllech, 797. Llantnewyd, 85. l.lantorfaen, 268. Llantrisant, Angl. 105. Llantrisant, Glam. 814. 211,258,410,418. Llantrisant, Mon. 271. Llantrithyd-park, 258, 413. l.lantwit lardre, 257. Llantwit major, 417, 1252. I.lanunwas, 1241. Llanuwchllyn, 81, 84. Llanwch hayarn, 333. Llanwenarth hill, 23. l.lanwenog, 706, 973, 1010. I.lanwern, 1042, 1044. Llanllechid, 736,951,1114. Llanwida, 752. Llanlleonfcl, 234. Llanllowel, 271. Llanllwchaiarn, 1010,1321 Llanllyfni, 298, 1197. Llan loddian, 764. Llar.macs, 1854. Llanwnda, 290, 507, 508, 509, 510. Llanvvnnen, 279, 706, 974. Llanwnnog, 1009. Llanwnnws, 1305. Llanwrthwl, 238. Llannon, 6 , 41, 278, 1079, Llanwyddelan, 1010. 1266, 1267. Llannwnws, 39. Llanofer house, 926, 1105. Llanrhaiadyr, 797, 498. Llanrhaiadyr hall, 793. Llanrhaiadyr yn moch- NANT, 798. Llanwyrtyd, 231, 236. Llanwrtyd wells, 238,1305 Llanyblodwel hall, 800. Llanybre, 809. Llanybydder, 279. Llanychaiarn, 9, 333. Llanychen, 1166. I.lanychlloydoc, 1000 . Llanycil, 79, 82, 84. I.lanyfydd, 449. I.lanymdyfri castle, 740. Llanymowddy, 85, 462, 873. Llanymynach, 815, 454, 937, 942. I.lanyncyntevin, 194. Llanyngenedle, 560. Llanynis, 231, 237, 239, Llanystyndwy, 420. Llanywechlyn, 85. Llanywern, 197. Llaugharne, 823. Lie’ carreg, 560. l.lcchddu, 650. Lechfaen, 1242. I.lechfan, 183. Llech gwen farwyd, 360. Llech idris, 243. Llech mawr, 1252, 1854. Llech rhyd, 331. Llech trufin, 514. Llech meylir, 514. Llech ryd bridge, 673,1292. Llech weddgarth, 785. Llech vvcdd y re, 1198. Llech y dribedd, 668 ,1001. Llech y flaiddast, 673. Llech y gaures,330. Llech y gawres, 671, Lledvviail river, 237. Llenny brook, 25. Lleiar, 290, 389. Lletty synod, 46. Lleweni, 1218. Lleweni hall, 450, 912. Lleweny groes, 1159. l.lewerneg mine, 338. I.lewesog, 797. Llewhaden, 1230, 1231. Llia glen, 190. Llia river, 190. Llidiartaderyn, 1010. Lliewedd, 117. Llifior, 765. Llogin, 181,229. Llogin river, 181,194. Lloughor, S27. Llowes, 159, 616. Lluesog, 450. Lluest cadwgan, 711. Lluryd. 9. Llwybrhelen, 1301. Llwydiarth, 772. Llwydiarth park, 320. Llwyd siac, 11. Llwyl, 749. Llwyn, 772, 797, 1196, 1302. Llwyncyn tefn, 194. Llwyndcrw, 23',, 1321. Llwyn glas, 43. Lwyndyris, 331. 1432 .Llwyngwgir, 234, 670,673. Lhvyngwern, 864. LI wynegrin, 1350. Llwynmadoc, 237. Llwynon hall, 494. Lhvyn rhinayll, 703. Llwyn tydmon, 813, 816. Llwyn wnvvcli mine, 338. Lhvyn y harried, 239. Lhvyn y brain hall, 752. I.lwyn y gog, 1074 . Llwyn y groes, 1320 . Lhvyn y grawys, 966. Llwyn y pia, 895. Lhvyn yr eida, 198 . Llwynysgolog, 401 . Llychwyr, 962. Llychvvy river, 73S. Liyderbach, 717 . Llyder mawr, 717 , 950 . Lyffan, 757, 75S. Llyfyry ficker, 747. Liyfnant river, 703 , 1072 . Llyfni river, 1S5, 202,203, 424. Llygvvy woods, 762. Llyn 421, 1076, 1121 . Llyn aeddwen, 12 . Llyn alet, 447, 451, Llyn alwen, 451. Llyn berwyn, 240. Llyn both lwyd, 322, 718, 1209. Llyn bodlyn, 99, 578. Llyn cadair yr auri'iychin, 118. Llyn cadiver, 767. Llyn cadwgan, 235- Llyn coch, 1203, 1204. Llyn conglog, 1269. Llyn convvy, 1270. Llyn crafnant, 402, 809. Llyn cwlid, 398, 402, 809. Llyn cwm dylyn, 797. Llyn cwmlhvch, 188,1S9. Llyn cwm silin, 797 Llyn cywellyn, 119, 293, 297, 1204, 1206. Llyn du, 572, 1302. Llyn du bach, 1269. Llyn du yr arddwy, 1203 , Llyn eigiau, 399, Llyn elidvr, 889. Llyn fawr, 896. Llyn terydden fawr, 572, Llyn ferydden fychan, 572, Llyn gwas, 1204 . Llynfi river, 417 , 525 , 963 . Llyn fynnon y gvvas, 120 a, 1204 . Llyn geirion nydd, 398,399, 402 , 807, 809 . Llyn gen, 1118 . Llyn glas, 721 , 1203 . Llyn goron, 72. INDEX OF PLACES. Llyn gorlan, 572. Llyn gronv, 572, Llyn gwyn,573, 1140,1144 Llyn gwyddior, 767, 940. Llyn gwynant, 116 . ilyn gvvynen, 113 . Llyn gynon, 237. Llyn helign, 572. Llyn hir, 572, 766. Llyn law gregenan, 249. 1 lyn iaw mymbr, 1209 . Llyn iaw nantle, 117 , 119 , 2 94’ 3 02 , 79 6 . 797. Llyn idvval, 323, 327, 717 , 735 , 1208 . Llyn lrddyn, 99,578. Llyn llanbychllyn, 617 . Llyn llanillyn, 618 . Llyn llwyduw, 946, 1201 . Llyn Hygad rhydiol, 1 O 72 . Llyn llyphaint, 736. Llyn maelog. 71 . Llyn merig, S9. Llyn mignan, 119 . Llyn mingil, 476, 130 : 1 . Llyn moelfre, 441 . Llyn ogwen, 301 , 322 , 326 , 734 , 948 , 1209 . llyn padarn, 1197 . Llyn peris, 465. Llyn, promontory of, 1076 . Llyn ralhllyn, 1301 . Llyn safeddan, 184 , 231 , 617 . Llyn tal y llyn, 402, 809. Llyn teewyn uclia, S 68 . Llyn tegid, 79, 779, 874. Llyn tegwin, 560. Llyn tegvvyn isa, c 8 r. Llye tegwyn ucha, 381 . Llyn teifi, 572, Llyn trigrasenyn, 245 , 476 , 864 , 1300 , 1 . 302 . Llyn trwstyllon, 1269 . Llyn y baban, 191 . Llyn y bugail, 766. Llyn y cader, 119 . Llyn y cae, 242, 246. Llyn y cwm, 323, 324,577, 717 , 1208 . Llyn y cwm glas, 1201 . Llyny dinas, 113 , 120 , 294 , 1203 , 1209 . Llyn y dywarchen, 159 , 294 , 297 . Llyn y fan, 194 , plyn y gader, 242 , 294 . I,lyn y green, 1 O 2 . plyn y grinvvydden, 766. Llyn y groes, 818 . Llyn y gwynant, 1209 . Llyn y macs, 572 , 1306 . Llyn y morvvgnion, 1270 . Llyn y nadroedd, 1203 , 1204 . Llyn y nigen velin, 572. 1434 Llyn y pandu mine, 909. Llyn yr afango, 802 , 1007 1008 . Llyn yr alarcli, 514 . Llyn yr ogo, 447. Llys, 746. I lysbradwyn, 249, 863, Llysdinorddwig, 746. Llys edwyn, 518 , 1011 . 1 lys enog river, 189 , 897 , Llys osborn, 580. Llys syn, 320, 765, 766. Llys taly hont, 257, Llystin, 993. Llyvvel, 194 , 196 , 197 , 965 , Llywyneinon, 235. Llugwy river, 808. Lodge, 203,450, 643,850, Lodge encampment, 264, Lodge park, 44, 46. Log y las 1111116 ,^ 339 . Longden, 548. Long house, 512 . Longhope, 547, 548. Longuor, 859, 1192 . Longnor-hall, 215. Longstone, 595, 880. Longtowu, 31 , 814 . Longville, S58. Loton, 820, 1195. Loventium, 707, 709, 999, 1305. Lover'? leap, 1360, Lower Alley, 138. Lower chapel, 180. Lower garth hill, 257. Lower Treftcca, 201. Lower wear, 1154. Lucton, 1325. Ludlord church, 850. Ludford house, 849, S52. Ludlow, 829, castle, 830, 1 hurch, 839; church-yard, alms house,rectory,Leon¬ ards’chapel, 842; meet¬ ing-houses, cross, market house, 843 ; guild-hall, grammar-school, theatre, prison, workhouse, 843, bull ring, inns, bowling- green, billiard-room, rac¬ es, dispensary, societies, military, canal, library, 844, race course, white- cliff, maypoles, singular custom of rope pulling, 845, 855. Ludstep, 1038. Lug-bndge, 699. Lug-river, 1354. Luslon, 687, 689, 699, 852, Lydncy, 975. l.ydley. hayes, 859. Lyon’s hall, 643, 644, 675., 696. 1137 INDEX OF PLACES. 1 i35 Lyson-house, 54S. Lyth hill, 859. Lythwood. 859. Mabus, 713. Machen-lull, 993. Machen vale, 990. Maclino river, 1271. Machunis, 762. Machwy river, Cl 6. Machynllaeth, 859, 247. Madresfield, 879. Madresfield court, 549. Madryn, 420. Maehenydd, 676. Maelor saesneg, 646. Maen, 804, 822. Maen aehvvvnfan, 481. Maen addwyn, 763. Maen an, 809. Maen arthur, 571. Maen bcuno, 765. Maen bigil, 70 Maenan abbey, 801. Maeneu hirion, 1211. Maen hir, 178, 309, 510. Maen lnrion, 99, 186, 191. Maen Ilia, 190. Maen llwd, 763. Maen llylhyrog, 884, 963. Maen madoc, 190. Maen melyn, 421. Maen sigl, 756. Maentwroc, 866,475, 498. Maen y gvvyr, 674. Maen y meilt, 421. Maen y morwynion, 171, 749. Maen y prenvol, 711. Maen y tri thifedd, 669. Maes, 75, 757. Maes arthur, 990. Maes bach, 1137. Maesbury, 455, 818. Maes caradoc, 950. Maeselwy, 452. Maes gannon, 297, 908. Maes glas, 99. Maes gvvyn, 456. Maes llemysten, 320, 765. Macs lvvch, 615, 616, 618, 921. Maes mawr, Brecons, 433, 434. Maes mawr, Dcnbighs, 86. Maes mawr,Montgum. 1008. Maes mawr gad, 787. Maesmore, 548. Maesmore bridge, 548. Maes Mynach, 11, Macsmynan, 450,912,1218. Maesmynnan-house, 1. Maes mynis, 182, 231, 239. Maes newydd, 44. Maes rhos rhyfel, 93. Macs y dref, 1137. Maes y gaer, 1. Maes y groes, 402, 736. Macs y gvvaelod lodge, 493. Macs y pandy, 1302, Maes y porth, 822, 823. Maes yr onn, 235. Mag Iona, 859. Magna castra, 642, 644. Magor, 992. Magwyr river, 46. Mahe 1,618. Maiden’s breast, 1000. Maiden stone, 171, 196. Malkwn castle, 9. Malldraeth estuary, 72. Maltraeth, 300. Mallmason, 1010. Mallwyd, 870, 440. Malpas church, 995. Makes, 669. Maltwyd, 768. Malvern, S74, hills, 875, lodging house,876,hotels, monastery, church, wells, 877 ; Little Malvern, church, camps, 878. Mamhilad, 1106. Manarabon, 752. Manarnawan, 507, 515. Mancliochog, 596. Manleoeth, 790. Mannest, 182, 190. Man of Ross’s walk, 641. Manorbeer, 879,1037. Mansel lacey, 642,644. Mara mota, 177. Marble church, 809. Marbury, 1014. Marbndge, 645. Marchlyn mawr, 950. Marehnad y wayn, 309. Marchweithian, 449. March wiel, 1351. Marden church, 693. Marecross, 491. Marford lull, 383. Marcam, 881, 418. Margam Coppermine, 886 . Margam kill, 225. Margam park, 884. Margarpt’s island, 1283. Mandunum, 514, 704. Marino, 1265. Marion, 464. Marl, 398, 786. Marian's bridge, 904. Marios, 1246. Marsh, 823. Marshfield, 986. Marshfield, church, 992. Marthry, 511, 515. Marton, 1196. Mary’s knoll, 851. Maccgood inn,/i52i Mathern church, 979. Malhern palace, 978. Mathrafal, 316, 773, 823, 939. Mathrey, 159. Mauny capel, 1137. Maw dale, 474. Mawddach river, 794. Mawdlen bridge, 591. Maw ley-hall, 137. Maw river, 940. May hill, 547, 1153. May nan, 393. Mayndee encampment, 264 Mearchland, 453. Mediolanum, 771, 773, 822. Meend, 548, 924. Mehassin river, 1S7. Meifod, 771, 772, 822, 939, 1006. Merion, 866. Melandina abbey, 479. Meliden-, 521. Melincourt, 963, 1266. Mchncourt cascade, 964. Melincrythan, 963. Melincwm Rhydiol, 38. Melin ddwr, 45. Melin felendre, 791. Melin Gryd'ydd, 257, 411, 727, 1113. Melin puleston, 456, 1359. Mellington, 938. Mellington-hall, 454. Mellte fall, sec Rhaiadyr mellte. Melte river, 1081. Menapia, 514, 999, 1236. Menevia, 1236. Mem gvvyr, 580. Merioncourt, 1031. Merionethshire, 888 j di¬ mensions, mountains, riv¬ ers, lakes, soil, 889; im¬ provements in draining, imbanking, and planting, 890; manufactures, divi¬ sions, population, 891. Meriton, 1195. Merlin emrys, see Morddin emrys. Merlin’s bridge, 599. Merlin’s lull, 275. Merthyr, 511. Merthyr cynog, 179. Merthyr mawr, 417, 1122. Merthyr Tuiiitl, 891, 235, 258. Mesur y dorth, 513. Mevcrley, 820, Michael church, 31. Michael’s mount, 26, Michaelstonc le pit, 416, Michnant, 500. Midcounty, 957. 14 1440 Middle, 119J». Middleton hall, 277, 739, 745. Middle isle, 479. Middlewich, 1014. Micneu gwyr, 826. Milford, 897, Market- house, custom-house, 898 ; dock, observatory, batteries, 899; port, 901. Milford Haven, 900. Mdl're hill, 1100. Millfield, 1306. Mill-lodge, 44, 863. Mindeau, 257. Minera, 434, 1349. Minfordd, 864, 1272, 1302, 1303. Minllin, 874. Minnow river, 814. Minsterworth, 545. Mil k river, 39. Mitchel dean, 548, 975. Mitton, 820. Moat, 597. Moccas, 680. Moccas court, 642, 645, 1354. Mochdref, 757. Moel arthur, 520, 911. Moel ben tvvrch,423. Moelddolwen, 765. Moel ddu mawr, 785. Moel dyfi, 870. Moel eglwys, 783. Moel elion, 118, 293, 295, 296. Moel eryr, 596, 999. Moel eithinen, 440. Moel famma, 906. Moel fa, 1068. Moel faban, 952. Moel feliarth, 320, 765. Moel fenlli, 440, 520, 1166. Moel fra point, 68. Moel fynytha, 963. Moel garn guwch, 423,786. Moel gochmine, 338. Moel gvvdion 499. Moel liebog, 114,499. Moel hiraddug, 464. Moel ifor, 7, 41. Moel llyn, 42. Moel mynydd mawr, 295. Moel orthrwn, 474. Moel siabod, 322, 808. Moel trygarn, 666. Moel wyn gwyn, 869, 1269. Moelwynnion, 735, 952. Moel wyn yr hydd, 869, 1269. Moel ycci, 951. Moel y cynghorion, 1203. Moel y don, 904, 57, 75, 298. INDEX OF PLACES Moel y famma, 520. Moel y gaer 518 519, 1218. Moel y golfa, 768, 819, 821, 940, 1320. Moel ynys, an islet, 47. Moel ynys, a tumulus, 44 Moel yr acre, 520. Moel yr elian, 735. Moel yr thrwm, 1300. Moinscourt, 980. Mold, 905, 439, 457, 520, 521. Molesdale, 456. Mollington, 382. Mona, 55. Monachlog, see Strata Flo¬ rida. Manachelog, 456, 1011. Mona mine, 50. Monfordion, 790. Monington, 669. Monkscourt, 980. Monkditch, 1045. Monkland, 693. Monkton, 1028. Monmouth, 913, gates, cas¬ tle, 914, priory & house, 915 ; churches, school, 916; jail, bridges, town- hall, trade, 9 i 7; borough, population, market, fairs, inns, walks, 918. Monmouth cap, 1353. Monmouthshire, formed part of the Silurian terri¬ tory, and a district called Gwent, 928; churches, 929; boundary, popula¬ tion, sends members and gives titles, rivers, soil, 903 ; roads, mountains, 931 ; air, quarries, 932. Monnow river, 558. Montford, 820, 821, 1191. Monuchdenny, 173, 309. Montgomery, origin, cas¬ tle, 933; population, mar¬ ket, fairs, inn, corpora¬ tion, school, church, 935; jail, guildhall, 936. Montgomeryshire, 938 ; boundaries, dimensions, divisions, climate, 939 ; mountains, rivers, 940, canal, 941 ; soil, produc¬ tions, 942; planting, hus¬ bandry, 943; cattle,sheep, horses, improvements, 944; enclosures,roads,945 Montford bridge, 1191. Monuments, ancient, 1007. Moor, 851, 853, 1031. Moore, 645. Moors, 1044. Mopart, 766. Morda river, 815. Mordiford, 678, 1354. Morecourt, 696. Morfa rhuddlan, 457, 1143. Morlais castle, 896. Morlas river, 762. Morriston, 962, 1265. Morristown, 1262,1265. Mortimer’s cross, 697,1118, 1324. Morton on lugg, 645. Morva village, 7, 41. Morville, 215, 667, 1000. Mostyn coaliery, 522. Mostyn-hall, 481, 656. Mount denny, 896. Mounton, 1259. Mounton valley, 370. Mouse islets, 69. Mowddach-falls, 795. Moyle forest, 28, 30. Moyle grove, 669. Mucklcy cross, 215. Mullock bridge, 124 Mumbles, 222, 1263. Muridunium, 234, 272. Myath hill, 433. Mydyr river, 9. Mynach falls, 1091. Mynachtu, 70. Mynwear, 349. Mynydd aberavon, 418. Mynydd bychan, 418, 560, 963. Mynydd cam goch, 328. Mynydd digolt, 936. Mynydd dormini, 884. Mynydd du-, 748, 749, 1240. Mynydd garreg, 482. Mynydd maen, 993, 1098. Mynydd mawr, 1204. Mynydd moel, 247. Mynydd syebdyn, 456. Mynydd llwyd, 769. Mynydd y gaer, 21H Mynydd y slwyn, 1109. Mynydd yslwyn, 1104. Nadolig castle, 41. Nanerth rocks, 1352. Nangle bay, 1030. Nangle point, 901. Nanneau park, 473, 794, 1300. Nannerch, 521, 522, 911, 912. Nant beris, 295. Nant bran, 767. Nantcerrig, 946. Nant clwyd, 1168. Nant conwy, 1271. Nant cribba, 454, 770, 938, 1008, 1321. Nant cwnlle, 11. Nant ddu brook, 897. Si 1441 Nantddu chapel, 189,897. Nanteirio, 45. Nanteiris, 1094. Nant eos, 7,38, 45, 1304, 1306. Nam fola, 1142. Nant francon, 301, 736, 947. Nant francon fort, 1197. Nant gwrtheyrn, 116, 786, 1120. Nant gwynant, 721, 1205, 1210. Nant gwynedd, 115. Nant gwyrfai, 296. Nant halan, 771. Nantlay, 44. Nant llyn, 451. Nant mel, 1127. Nant mill, 119, 297. Nant organ, 1107. Nant peris, 945, 324, 746. Nant teifi, 572. Nant wgan, 766. Nant y bela, 456. Nant y bettws 293. Nant y castell, 1289. Nant y crier mine, 338. Nant y dienydd, 67. Nant y flaiddast, 237. Nant y flint, 456. Nant y garth, 298. Nant y glo, 1101. Nant y gwrtheyrn, 422. Nant y meichtad, 822. Nant v meirch brook, 196. Nant y meirch mine, 339. Nant yr ariad, 230. Nant yr hedydd, 768. Nant y scallen brook, 203. Nant y stalwyn, 240. Narberth, 954. Nash, 569. Nash church, 1036. Nay land, 346, 901. Neath, 958; castle, 959. Neath abbey, 962. Neath river, 525,896, 1081. Nedern river, 1258. Neelston, 1249. Nefern, 670, 673, 1000. Nefcrn brook, 318. Nefern river, 667. Nefyn, 967, 422, 500. Nell’s point, 253. Newcwys, 908. Nesscliff, 821, 1191. Netherton, 699. Netherwood, 699. Neuadd wen, 766, 1006. Neuarth, 67 i. Neuoddfraith, 1321. Newborouch, 968,'73, 300. Newbridge, 310, 386, 819, 8*1,964, 1104, 11O5. INDEX OF PLACE? Newbridge green, 548. Newcastle in Emlyn, 969, 41. Newcastle, Glamor. 210. Newcastle, Monm. 923. Newgill river, 1244. Newgill sands, 599, 1242. Newhall, 1359. Newnham, 975. New-house, 349, 1127. New Inn, 333, 336, 417, 596, 599, 678, 713, 751, 826. Newland, 1342. Newmarket, 483. New-mill, 678. Newnham, 1344. New Passage, 976, 222, 318. Newport, Mon. castle, 982 ; corporation, 983 ; church, 984. Newport, Pern. 995. Newport house, 644. New quay, 821. New Radnor, see Radnor. Newton, Herefords. 643. Newton, Shrops. 157, 858, 1‘35- Newton down, 211, 1251. Newton house, Glam. 418. Newton nottace, 1002. Newton park, Caerm. 277, 738. Newtown, 1003, 945. Newtown hall, 1004. New wear, 556, 1357. Nolton, 1245. Norden green, 549. North hill, 875. Northop, 1010,456,912. North stoke, 1235. Northwich, 1012. Norton, 677. Norton canon, 644. Norton sands, 1282. Noyadd, 534. Nox, 1196. Oakley park, 845, 855, 1195. Ockle park, 492. Octopitarum, 1237. Offa’s dyke, see Clawdd Offa. Offa’s palace, 693. Ogmore river, 417, 525, 966. Ogo dafyda ap shenkin,478. Ogof dolanog, 320. Ogof gafyr, 1237. Ogof owain, 249. Ocmore castle, 1O16. Ogmore river, an. Ogwen pool, 326. 1413 Ogwen river, 89, 322, 731. Ogwrfash, 525. Ogwrfawr river, 525. Olchon river, 814. Oldeastle, 30, 417. Old court, 29, 927. Oldford bridge, 381, 1154. Old Passage, see Aust Fep.ry. Old place, 108. Old post, 1022. Old Radnor, see Radnor. Oleu favvr, 324. Olwen hill, 705. Olwy brook, 271, 1319. Oneybury, 157, 857. Onslow, 820, 1191, 1195. Orlandon, 1246. Orleton, 688, 852, 853, 1118. Orielton, 1029. Orme’s head, 761, 950. Osmund’s air, 1O7. Ostermouth castle, 1017, Oswestry, 1018,385,454. Over amnesh, 698. Overlcy hall, 383. Over lyde, 643. Overton, 493, 689, 1C23. Oxwich castle, 1263. Oxwich marsh, 1061. Oxwich point, 1263. Pabcll llywarch hen, 406, 407. Packwood, 1356. Pain’s castle, 1140. Pakeau,713. Pale. 407. Pancaedu green, 451. Pant drws y bcudy, 401. Panteg. 998. Pantgrwndy, 336. Panthowell ddu Isha, 41S. Pant Ucwelyn, 231. Pant llyn dyffws, 353. Pant y dery, 334. Pant y flrydlas, 952. Pant yr eglwys, 1137. Pant yryscraphie, 74. Pant y seiri, 240. Parc, 233. Parc ar Iivon, 233. Park, 643. Parker’s due, 927. Parkgate, 382, 863. Park-hall. 137. Park of Eaton, 1364. Park wells, 228. Park yr eglwys, 1287. Parv’scopper mine,50,"60, 788, 960. Patrick church, 346. Pearson, 1246. Pebidiawg, 507, 515. 1444 Pfelham bridge, 1245 . Pembridge, 643, 6^5, 696. Pembroke, market, fairs, school, sessions, 1024 . Pembroke ferry, 591 . Pembrokeshire, 1038. Pembryn pellau, 43. Penaley, 1037 . Penalt. 371 , 703 , 859 , 866 , 938. Penared, 447. Penarth, 764. Penarth point, 728. Penarthyr, 1236 . Penbarris, 913 . Penbedw, 911 , 912 . Penbree-hill, 661 , 761 . Penbryn church, 671 . Penbyry, 1240 . Pen caer cybi, 648. Pencamavvr, 1041 , 271 , 770 , 1197 , 1258 . Pencarreg, 279. Pencelly forest, 668 . Penclwdd, 336 , 1264 . Pencoed, 768. Pencof.d Castle, 1042. Pencraig, 11 , 111 , 1154 , 713 , 1217 , 1356 . Pencreak lull, 641 . Pencross, 1127 . Pendergast, 336, 586, 901 . Pendergast place, 587. Pendenn, 1087. Pendine, 278, 1284. Pendre fawr, 973. Pen cefn y gaer, 171. Penegos, 462. Pcnestrywad, 1008. Pen foel, 334. Penforddherbert, 768,1320. Penglais, 42, 863. Penglan, 963. Pengwern, 33, 1215. Pen gwervvyn, 352. Pen hoelenion, 199. Penhow Castle, 1043 . Penhiarth, 822. Pen lace, 371. Penllegare, 1266. Penlline castle, 258, 390, 410, 414, 417, 1003. Penllwyn, 27, 1104. Penllwyn house, 1104. Penllyn, 746. Penmachno, 1046, 394, 808. Penmaen, Denbighs. 401, 757 . Penmaen, 45. Penmaen bach. 111, 401, 449. Penmaen Mawr, 1046 , 1 , 297 , 401 , 951 . Penmaen priory, 110 . INDEX OF PLACES Penmaen rhos, 757, 1150. Penmare, 256,416. Penman, 1249. Penmon-park, 64. Penmorfa, 1051,295. Pemmynidd, 1053,54, 91, 190, 731. Pen myerdd hill, 25. Pennant, 173, 462, 1321. Pennant melangell, 785. Pennant y derin, 332. Pennard, 519. Pennarth,417, 809, 1263. Pennarth castle, 1018. Pennerfaen, 17:3. Pennyholt stock, 1031. Penny’s leap, 1032. Penpark-hole, 545. Penpergwin-house, 926. Penpont, 196. Penpontbren, 44. Pentport, 159. Penfhiwflur, 1303. Pen rhiw goeb, 1096. Pen rhyn, 765, 953, 1 167. Penrbyn arms inn, 1058. Penrhyn du, 420. Penrhyn safnes, 107. Penrhos bradwen, 560. Penrlros dulas, 69. Penrhos encampment, 264. Penrhos-hall, 71,560. Penrhos house, 269. Penrhyn castle, 1 O 57 . Pen Rhys, 1060 . Pen rhys castle, 1060 . Pen sarn ddu, 42. Pen cryg, 750. Pcntirch forge, 257. Penton las, 44. Pentra, 32. Pcntraeth, 67, 302, 760. Pentre, 383, 950. Pentre bach, 268. Pentre berew, 61,92. Pentre bran dol honddu, 182 . Pentre bridge, 604. Pentre brunant inn, 503, 1145 . Pentre bwlch, 783. Pentre bychan, 454. Pentre clawdd, 1350. Pentre dethyn, 1267 . Pentreevan, 998, 1001. Pentre felin, 783. Pentre foelas, 326,355. Pentre go, 822. Pentre halkin, 604, 912. Pentre heylin, 1196 . Pentre hobin, 908. Pentre kenrick, 387. Pentre modi, 604. Pentre ’r clawdd, 455, 456, 1022. 14'4g Pentre rhydendigol, 39. Pentre rliyd y mein goch, 462. Pentress, 644, 645. Pentrewern, 1022. Pentrhyd y fen, 963. Pentyrch, 764, 1113 , Petervvell, 974. Penwen fawr, 966. Penwern, 713. Penyard, 546 , 1153 , 1355 . Penyard park and chase, 554. Pen y baili, 971. Pen y banch mine, 338. Pen y bank, 615 . Pen y bawn, 316 . Pen y benglog, 999. Pen y bont, 713 , 1010 , 1126 , 1145 . Pen y cader, 243, 246, 247, 248. Pen y craig, 749. Pen y crug, 171 . Pen y dinas, 8 , 701 . Pen y delyn, 1300 . Pen y fron, 909. Pen y gaer, 423 , 11 , 786 , 1007 . Pen y gara capel, 42. Pen y gardden, 1359 . Pen y gam, 863. Pen y gros, 1010 , Pen y lan, 745. Pen y llwrn, 1321 . Pen y narc, 22. Pen y narc newydd, 988. Pen y pil, 989. Pen y strywad, 793. Pen y pont, 239. Pen y pylle, 604, 912 , Pen y raig, 462. Pen yr allt, 860. Pen yr hiw, 510 . Pen yr hylan, 1008 . Pen yr inn, 258. Pen y street, 1006 . Pen y wenallt, 331 . Pen y wern, 46. Perlogue, 677. Perris river, 41 . Perthir, 923,927. Perthy, 492. Pescover, 752. Peterstone, Mon. 986, 992. Peterstone eminence, 25. Peterstone super Elwy, 413 . Peterstow, 548. Petton-hall, 1195 . Peytyn gwin, 179 . Pharos on garreg, 479, 482. Pibydd, 1289 . Piccadilly, 1145 . Picton-bridge, 996. Picton castle, 357,598,902, * M7 Piddleston, 1343. PlERCEElELD, 1062.’ Pigeon's ford, 533. Pillarof Eliseg, 435, 437. Pillars of stone, 26. Pilson house, 925, 1359. Pimble mere, 79. Pimpsaint, 751. Pinsley bridge, 697. Pipton chapel, 205. Pistyll, 604. Pistyll Rhaiadyr, 384, 782, 799. Pistyll y Cain, 470, 473, 474, 475, 795, 1301. Pitchford, 1192. Pitmarston, 549. Plas cilcennyn, 10. Plas coch, 298, 448, 452, Plas crug, 1094. rias dtilas, 69. Plasgronow, 1359. Plas grug, 46. Plasgvvyn,54, 67, 111,298, 302. 758, 760. Plas habryn, 658. Plas hen, 420. Plas lirion, 296. Plas isa, 912. Plas jolyn, 1010. Plas llan fair, 298, 301. Plas llanidan, 298, 788. Plas maddock, 809 1350. Plas madoc, 454. Plas meredith, 1321. Plas nant, 119. Plas newydd, Angl. 1067, 91,298. Plas newydd. Car. 665. Plas newydd, Cacrn. 809. Plas newydd, Dcnb. 775, 785. Plas power, 454. Plas Stourbridge 912. Plas teg, 259, 658,911. Plas ward, 1166. Plasyglynn, 71. Plas y nant, 297. Plas yn llan fair, 91. Plas ynygrien plas, 449. Plas y ward, 449. Punlimmox, 1071, 922. Plowdon hall, 858. Plumstone mountain, 1244. Plwyv y groes, 514. Plymouth furnace, 258. Poll tax inn, 597. Pont aberglasllyn,1075. Ponsill’s marsh, 546. Pontarddylais, 966. Pont ar dulas, 1079. Pont ardvvymyn, 462. Pont ar gamlan, 1301. Pont ar garfa, 475,794. 48 INDEX OF PLACES. 14 If) Pont ar leder, 1271. Pont ar saisse, 279. Pont artawy, 1262. Pont ar wyd, 1096. Pont bleudden, 658. Pont carreg newydd, 451. Pont cerry, 969. Pont coed ifor, 728. Pont cunno, 336. Pontcvnan, 667. Pont cysylltau, 457, 777, 781. Pontdafen, 762. Pont ddu, 98, 476. Pont dolgarrog, 398, 402, 809. Pont eden, 475. Pontfaen, 179. 1000. Pont fallwyd 870. Pont fathew, 1302. Pont felindree, 751. Pont gillan, 406. Pont glas, 745. Pont gwyn, 969’.' * Ponthafod perris, 713. Pont hirgwim, 476. Pont hirwen, 969. Pontlechryd, 671, 705. Pont llanbiran, 336. Pont llanio, 710,713. D ont llan ych airan, 7. Pont llyn dyffws, see Pont y Glyn. Pont loyrig, 827. Pont macs y genffbrdd, 239. Pont Neath Fauchan, 1080. Pont newydd, 424, 448, 1100 , 1168. Pont porth llwyd, 398, 402, 809. Pontralcoch, 448. Pont regwyn, 85. Pont rhyd, 650. Pont rilas, 645. Pontrhydkir, 863. Pont rhyd y cnau, 1087. Pont rhyd y croos, 1257. Pont rhyd y durig, 401. Pont rhyd y garreg, 793, 1352. Pont rhyffith, 912, 1218. Pont rhyffith hall, 912, 1218 Pont saturn, 269. Pont sychnant, 401. Pont y baldwyn, 999, 1001. Pont y berm, 1267. Pont y blew forge, 456. Pont y brynert, 433. Pont y cambull, 1218. Pont y ceiriog, 77S. Pont y crudd, 868. Pont y defaid, 972. Pont y Glyn, 1088, 353, 407. Pont y goitre, 926, 1135. Pont y grn, 336. Pont y gwryd, 322. Ponty herem, 1267. Pont y llogell, 320. Pont y moel, 1106. Pont y Monach, 1089,45. Pont y nen, 706. Pont y pair, 477, 80!, 806, 808,1271. Pont y pandy, 804. Ponty park, 957. Pont y penca, 1162. Pont y pren, 38. Pont y Piiydd, 1109, 257, 258, 418,729. Pont y Pwll, 1097, 268. Pont y pwll dvvr, 522. Pont y pwll park, 1098. Pontyrallt goch, 1217. Pont y rhydlanfair, 326. Pont yr yanc, 970. Pont yr yscraphie, 787. Pont y stickyll, 896. Pont y wall hall, 618. Pool meyric, 976. Pool park, 1166. Pool, see Welshpool. Porkington, 1021. Portclew, 1036. Portfield, 904. Porth, 1303. PoltTH AETHWY,SecBANOOtt Ferry. Parthamel, 74. Porthelais, 1238. Porth colman, 421. Porth dyn llyn, 422, 500, 1078, Porth elian, 760. Porth gwy lan, 421. Porthleschi, 1238. Porth llwyd, 402. Porthskewydd, 318. Porthskevvyddencampment 981. Port inon point, 1263. Porth towyn, 421. Porth usgadan, 421. Porth y berllen, 280. Porth y erwys, 237. Porth yr llyn, 968. Porth yr ogof, 191, 1085. Porto Bello, 257,411,1112. Port Penrh yn, 1114. Portway, 643, 645, 689, 852. Postlip, 362. Postyll, 912. Poughnill, 137. l’owick, 1342. Powickford, 1342. Powiscastle,768,937,1317, 1321. Poyntz castle, 1242. 1450 INDEX OF PLACES. 1452 Poyston,592. Prado, 1191. Pres gvvene, 387. Presaddfed, 4, 560, 651. Presselly or Percelly hills, 336, 667, 673, 1001. Prestatyn, 483, 520. Prestbury, 362. Presteign, 1115. Priestholme, 64, 110, 755, 758. Prion, 797. Priory pill, 898, 1249. Prix pill, 898. Prys henlle, 455. Puddlestone, 699. Puffin island, see Priest- holme. Puldw point, 1263. Pulford, 383. Pullcourt, 548. Pulley common, 859. Pullin, 673. Pulpit Hugh Llwyd, 497, 867, 1269. Pvvll ceris, 76. Pwll crochon, 1029. Pwll glas, 41,332. Pwll keris, 1071. Pwll y cwrw, 1023. Pwll y cwrw encampment, 199. Pwlldu, 1291. Pwll clech, 1252. Pwllheli, 1119, 295,420. Pwll y ffuwch, 74. Pwll y gravel, 278, 279. Pwll y piod, 454. Pwll y wrach, 417. Pyle, 1121. Pyle Inn. 1121, 417, 599. Pyle priory, 901. Pyrddiu river, 1081, 1086. Quaker’s yard, 257. Queen’s head, 1191. Queen hope, 259, 657. Radnor, 1123. Radnor forest, 1125. Radnorshire, it’s situation, divisions, rivers, 1127 ; mountains, soil, language productions, 1128. Raglan, 1 129. Ramas, 1246. Rath, 598. Rea river, 1344. Red brook, 548, 925, 1359, 1362, 1365. Redcastle, 349. Red court house, 938. Red hill, 548, 924. Red house, 1008, 1010. Redland, 220. Red lay, 645. Red marley, 548. Red rocks, 1361. Red wall, 596. Red whart bay, 760,763. Reifl hills, 422, 1197. Rcmney river, 521. Rennel’s cave, 417. Rhaiadyr, 1136, 792. Rhaiadyr arian, 450. Rhaiadyr cwm dyli, 116, 946. Rhaiadyr cynwyd, 405. Rhaiadyr du, 470, 472, 578, 867, 1269, 1301. Rhaiadyr mawr, 1 , 398. Rhaiadyr river, 940. Rhaiadyr y craig Llwyd, 804, 808, 1270. Rhaiadyr hepste, 1084,1085 Rhaiadyr y mawdach, 470, 472, 475, Rhaiadyr y melincourt,964. Rhaiadyr y• meltha, 191, 967., - Rhaiadyr yrhonda, 1111 . Rhaiadyr y rhydiol, 1091. Rhaiadyr y riske, 1111. Rhaiadyr y wenol, 326,804, 806, 808. Rhaiadyr y wenol, 355, 478,807. Rhisca, 1103,1104, 1105. Rhiwaedog, 406. Rhiw bebyll, 912. Rhivv goch, 1301. Rhiw hiriaeth, 764. Rhiw las ucha, 713. Rhiw nachor, 771. Rhiw y clyder, 324. Rhontha facfa, 894. Rhontha fawr, 894. Rhosaflo, 764. Rhos castle, 7, 902. Rhoscolin, 71. Rhoscrowther, 1029. Fhosddiarbed, 793,1006. Rhos ddu, 451. Rhos dducroesoneiras,456. Rhos Esmnr, 521. Rhos fawr, 73, 300, 764, 1257. Rhosferig,233. Rhos fynach, 757. Rhos market, 903. Rhos saith maen, 236. Rhosson, 1237. Rhos y bayvill, 669. Rhos y brith dir, 1006. Rhossydd-green, 383. Rhos y gall, 766. Rhos y mhiniog, 7. Rhual, 908,912. Rhuaradar, 745. Rhuardean, 554. Rhuardean church, 1356. Rhuddlan, 1148, 519. Rhug, 354, 405, 889,1169. Rlnisnant, 821, 1195. Rhutunium, 771 . Rhuf yr agos, 338. Rhuddlan marsh, 32, 455. Rhw’r adar, 276. Rhydspence, 1353. Rhyd y blew, 205. Rbydd, 549. Rhyddlan, 385. Rhyddyn, 658, 1350. Rhydfendigaid, 572, 1306. Rhyd halen, 500, 1302. Rhydin, 456. Rhydol river, 8 , 572, 1072. Rhydoldog, 1145. Rhydiol vale, 38. Rhyd marsh, 483, Rhyd owain, 706, 973. Rhyd pout ystyllod, 1006. Rhyd porthmaen, 1074. Rhyd y bont, 462. Rhydybriw, 194, 966. Rhyd y briw castle, 193. Rhyd y bumper, 333. Rhyd y cae, 279. Rhyd y cul gwyn, 1166. Rhyd y gor, 713. Rhyd y mirch, 1106. Rhyd y pandy, 12 . Rhydy penne, 863. Rhyd y pout, 71, 85. Rhyd yr helen, 888 . Rhysgog, 771. Rhythell river, 210. Rice castle, 589. Rickeston, 514. Richard’s castle, 688 , 689, 851, 1118. Ridgway, 955. Risbury, 699. Rivals hills, 286, 298. Roath, 253. Robeston hill, 599. Robeston wathen, 955. Roblinston, 1244 . Roche castle, 599, 824, 1243 . Rochlord, 1344. Rock and fountain inn, 1043 Rockfield, 28, 927. Rockingham-hall, 137 . Rofts, 557. Rogeston castle, 991 . Rolben hill, 23. Roman roads, 27, 257. Rosamond cottage, 695. Roscob forest, 752, 1305 . Rose hill, 1153 . Rosilly bay, 1264 . Rosinana, 752. Ross, 1150 , Ross-hall, 1191 . 1453 INDEX OF PLACES. 1455 Roughwood, 1013 . Routon, 820. Rotheras, 640, 679, 1362 . Rowton, 773 , 1 iqs, Ruabov, 1155 , 1359 . Rumney, 254. Rumney church ,989. Rumney river, 930. Runston, 980. Ruperra, ogi. Kuperri, 253, 254. Rushy moor, 319 . Ruthin, 1163 , 457. Sabrina, 1072. Saith maachog, 1168. Saltmore-well, 852. Saltney common, 383. Saltney marsh, 381. Sanctuary, 828. Sandbourne, 137. Sander’s foot, 1285. Sandford field, 363. Sandl'ord heath, 1191. Sansaw hill, 1195. Sapey, 1343. Sarnau, 181, 1288. Sarn badrig, 337, 420, 579. Sarn cadwgan, 338. Sam cynfelyn, 337. Sarn ddewi, 337. Sarn helen, 46, 178, 181, 235, 280, 497, 707, 888 , 1301. Sarn hir, 27. Sarn lleon, 234, Sarnsfield, 694. Sarnsficld court, 643, 644. Sarnsfield oak, 695. Sarn swsan, 1006. Sarn y bwcli, 387, 079. Sarn y ga(r, 337. Scilly isle, 416. Screen, 617. Screnfrith castle, 923. Scudamore hill, 925. Scurry hill, 957. ’Scwd einon gam, 1087. ’Scwd gwlndis, 1087. Sealy, 593, 595. Sealyham, 592,594. Seethrog, 183. Segontium, 283, 746, 866 , 888 . Segroit uchaf, 797. Scgrvvyd, 451. Seiont river, 210 , 424. Selatyn, 454. Selleck, 1355. Sengennith castle, mi. Senny river, 189, 193, 964 966. Se river, 792. Severn end, 549. Severn river, 940 , 1072. Severn vale, 774. ’Sgwdyrhen rhyd, 966. Sheep island, 1030 . Shelton, 1192 . Shetty park, 1263 . Shire newton, 318 . Shobden, 696, 697, 1118 . Shocklach castle, 646.- Shotten lane, 604. Shotwick, 382. Shrawardinc great, 820. Shrawardinc little, 820. Shrewsbury, it’s history, 1170—1173 ; population, inns, trade, castle, 1174 ; jail, 1176 ; bridges, wa¬ ter-works, 1177 ; abbey, 1178 ; stone pulpit, con¬ vents, st. Chad’s church, 1179 ; new st. Chads, st. Marys, 118 c; st. Alk- munds, 1182 ; st. Giles, st. Julians, free school, st. Nicholas, subscription school, st. Chad’s alms¬ houses, st. Mary’s alms¬ houses, Bowdler’sschool, Allatt’s school, 1183 ; in¬ firmary, town hall, mar¬ ket-house, market cross, clothworker’s hall, 1184 ; Charlton hall, Vaughan’s place, Cole hall, Council house, White-hall, Bell- stone house, 1185 ; Jones’s mansion, ancient timber house, magazine,Shrews¬ bury shew, 118 b; Mil¬ lington’s hospital, quarry walk, ancient theatre, 1187 j walks, st. John’s hill and tower, 1188 ; house of industry. Shrubbery. 137 . Siabod, 946, 1209 . Siimbcrwyn, 463. Sibden castle, 157, 858. Sigginston, 1252. Silian, 709. Silurian territory, 928. Skeifiog, 521, 912. Skerries, 70. Skethrog, 433. Sketty lodge, 1265. Skockam, 1248. Skyrrid bach, 23. Skyrrid mawr, 13, 26, 28, 645. Slate quarries, 301, 302. Slebach, 548, 598, 902. Slebeck-hall, 957. Slwch encampment, 171. Smalls, 1239. Smurton, 594. Snake gems, 72. Snowdon, 1196,301,302. Sodston house, 955. Solfach, 599, 1241. Solfa river, 514. Somergill river, 1123. Southam, 362. Spenn-moor, 676. Spite, 7. Spoonbill, 1195. Spring grove, 137. Spudder bridge, 661. Sputty, 792. Spytliy cen faen, 1092. Sputty cen wyn, 793. Spytty ystwith, 45, 1257. Stacks, 1032. Stackpool, 1035. Stackpool bosher, 1033. Stackpool court, 1033,1285. Stackpool elidur, 1035. Sc. Afans, 233. Stagbatch, 693. Stainton, 903. Stanbrook, 549. St. Andrews, 977. Stanford court, 138, 1343. Stanner, 675. St. Ann’s point, 1248. St. Anthony’s well, 809 .' Stanton, 645, 697. Staple, 643. St. Asaph, 1212. St. Arfans, 371. St. Athens, 416. Staunton, 548. Staverton bridge, 363. St. Beuno, 423. St. Brides, 255, 599, 986. St. Briavels, 925, 1359, 1362, 1365. St. Buddock, 1249. St. Catherines’s chapel,898. St. Catheiinc’s isle, 1281. St. Cenox, 956. St. Clares, 278, 279, 824, 827, 1002. St, Cyngar, 416. St. Cynllo’s cave, 330. St. Davids, Brec. 173, 192. St. Davids, Pern. 1720; bishop’s palace, 1223; chapel, archdeacon of Brecon’s house, 1224 ; chancellor’s house, clois¬ ters, 1225;cathedral.M :> ; tombs, effigies school, 1228; Vaughan's chapel, our 1 u- 1229; st. Nun’s chapel, st. Justinian’s chapel, 1233. St. David’s head, 1237. St. Dogmaels, 334, 673, 1002. St. Dogwclls, 594. 1456 1458 St. Donats, 1250. Steddfagerrig, 793. Steep, 416. Steep holmes, 252. St. Elian’s point, 647. St. Elwys, 1242. Steperside, 157. Stepleton, j 118 . Stetford bridge, 643. St. Ethelbert’s well, 493. Stevcnsford, 336. St. Fagans, 412, 727. St. Florence, 1037 . St. Fynnon, st. Dyfnag,i 167 St. Georges, 32, 412 , 1050 . St. Gofan's chapel, 1032 . St. Gofan’s well, 1033 . St. Hilarys, 647. Stiperstones, 18 . St. Ismaels, 661 , 1243 , 1249 . St. Johns, 549. St. Julians, 266. St. Leonard’s rathe, 598. St. Lethian’s down, 256. St. Lythian’s common, 412 . St. Marcellus, 1219 . St. Margaret’s isle, 128J. St. Martins, 495, St. Martin’s rocks, 1358 . St. Mary de Rupe, 1243 . St. Mary’s knoll, 1119 . St. Melons, 255, 988, 989. St. Meugans, 105 . St. Michael cwm du, 431 . St. Nicholas, 511 , 258 , 412 , 727 . Stockton, 138 , 699 , 1343 . Stocktonbury-cross, 698, 12 75- Stoke castle, 157 . Stoke edith, 678. Stoke prior. 699. Stokesay castle, 857. Stonehouse, 857. Stony bridge, 278, 279. Storehouse, 402. Stourport 137 , 844 . Stow, 645. St. Petrocks, 1035 . St. Pierre, 318 , 367 , 978 , 980 . St. Quintin castle, 417 . Stradmore, 331 , 966 . Strata Florida, 1255 , 39 . Strata marcella, 1319 . Stratford, 699. Street, 821 . Streetland, 593. Stretton, 699, 1196 . Stretton sugwas, 644. Stricuil Castle, 1257 . Stromber, 1245 . St. Teclas, 101 . St. Treagle, 979. St. Woolas, 985. INDEX OF PLACES, Sudbrook chapel, 977. Sudbrook encampment, 319 977. Sudley, 362. Sugar loaf mountain, 13 , 17 , rg, 645 . Summerhill, 1243 . Sunny bank, 24. Sunvick, 363. Sutton walls, 493. Swains, 1353 . Swansea, 1259, 196. Swanseacastle, 1224. Swan’s hill. 045. Swelly rocks, 75 , 1071 . Swindon, 363. Sychden, 604, 912 , 1011 . Sychnant, 401 , 407 , 780 . Syfynfy, 596. Sylfan, 768 , 1320 . Symond’s rock, 1364 . Symond’s yat or gale, 554, 556, 1337 , 1361 . Synod finnonddewy, 41 . Tairdiwen, 177 . Tafarn dowych, 783. Tafarn fach, 44, 863. Tafern newydd, 874. Tafern plwckedd, 278. Tafern spite, 41, 279, 1286, 1287. Tafern y bwncath jonter, 667. Tafarn y celin gate, 912. Tafern y fach, 336. Tafern y trap, 1321. Taff fechan river, 896. Taff river, 283, 524, 824, 964. Tair tref, 822. Talachddu, 177, 197. Talachddu brook, 198. Talachar, see Llaugliarn. Talar hir, 4. Talbenny, 1246, Talgarth, 202, 432, 866 . Taliaris park, 740, 741,752. Taliesin’s bed, 42. Tallefi mine, 1075. Talley church, 708. Talley monastery, 740. Tallyn house, 184. Talsarn, 11,713. Talwrn, 1321. Talybont. 44, 402,703,736, 809, 863, 956. Tal y foel ferry, 57, 74,299, 300. Tal y garreg, 860. Taly llyn, 244, 434, 703, 1300, 1302,1303. Tanad river, 785, J815 911, 940. Tan ben y cefn ’cefn, 227. Tan y bryn, 401 . Tan y bwlch, 85, 580, 783, 1268 . Tan y bwlch hall, 498,866. Tan y gaer, 339. Tan yr allt, 401 , 1307 . Tarell river, 897. Tawe vale, 197 . Taybach, 418 , 887. Teberri, 1299 . Tcfeddel, 673. Teify vale, 9, 39, 706. Tegan’s chapel, 510 . Teme river, 677. Temple bar, 332. Temple druid, 596, 597. Templeton, 279,350. Tenbury, 844, 1273 .- Tenby, 1275 ; inns, govern¬ ment, 1276 ; baths, trade, i 277 ;views, 1278 ; walls, gates, sands, castle, 1279 ; convents, chapels,church 1280 . Tern hill, 215 . Tern river, 215 . Ternwy river, 937. Terrenig river, 793. Terrig river, 521 , 910 . Theowcn, 919 . Thistle-boon, 1263 . Thornbury, 680, 699. Thorngrove, 1343 . Thornhill, 254, 308. Thorn rocks, 1360 . Thornton hough, 382. Thornton mayo, 382. Thornwell, 1361 . Thorp, 643. Threap wood, 647. Three elms, 643. Tiers cross, 599. Tiddenham, 454, 975. Tillington, 643. Tinfreeth, 85. TlNTERN ABBEY, 1293,1339. Tipton, 489. Tir y mynach, 702. Titley, 675. Tit ley-court, 644. Tomen llanio, 710 . Tomen lias, 44. Tomen rhyd owen, 973. Tomen saint fraid, 1136 . Tomen ybala, 79, 888 . Tomen y mur, 498, 867, 888 , 1301 . Tomen y rhodwydd, 438. Tomen y fardra, 440. Tondu, 963. Top fron, 912 . Torrington, 678. Torfaen, 268. Torglwyd, 863. Torrbant, 159. 14. f >9 Tori yd river, 67. Totterton, 858. Tower, gio, 1359 . Town, 839. Towy.n, 1298 . Towyn Metriohydd, '249, 1298 . Towy river, 525. Towy vale, 276, 282, 737. Towyn trewin, 71 . Towyn y capel, 71 . Traeth bach, 497, 500, 867, 1 O 52 , 1272 . Traeth bach river, 940. Traeth coch, 67, 68 . Traeth llafan, 771 . Traeth maelgwn, 44. Traeth mawr, 500 , 575 , 722 , 867 , 890 , 1052 , 1271 , 1272 . Traeth saith, 970. Trallwng, 178. Trawscoed, 39, 45. Trawsffynydd, 475, 795, 1270, 1272, 1301. Trawstre, 198. Treago, 924. Trebarried, 198. Trebanned, 618. Tre beddw, 964. Tie’ beddw mountains,728. Trcbeirdd, 658. Trebinshwn, 184. Treborth, 91. Trccaman, 669. Trccastle, 194, 196, 748, 749. Trecoed, 599, 61S, 1244. Trecoon, 395. Tredegar park, 235, 987, 990. Trederwcn hall, 821. Tredomcn, 198. Trcdonock, 1314. Tredryssey, 669. Trefalin, 337. Trefarchan, 1236. Trcf asser, 511.' Tref culhvvch, 510. Tref dyn, 1230. Tref ecca, 200,431. Tref edden, 1097. Tref ednyfed, 512. Tref edryd, 822. Tref garn, 392. Tref igan, 514. Tref ilan, II, 713. Tref lin, 790. Tref nanny, 822. Trcfor, 560. Treforgan, 33Q,. Trefough, 645 Tref pen sion, 184. Tref riw, 402, 457, 802, 807, 809. INDEX OF PLACES. 1161 Trcftrahcrn, 177. Tref wry, 789. Tref y clawdd, 454. Trefydd bychan, 797. Tregaer, 28. Tregaian, 93. Treganwy, 397, 1050. Tregare, 926. Tregarnedd, 92, 111. Tregaron, 1303. Tregunter, 199. Trehowel, 509. Trejorwerth, 560. Trelech, 371, 922. Trelewhelin,507. Trellick, 1298. Trellwyn, 1037. Trellyffan, 669. Trellys, 511. Tremadoc, 1307. Tremayn, 332. Tremeirchion, 521, 1217. Tremostyn, 481. Trenewydd, 493. Treprcnal, 815, 816. Tre’r beirdd,7S9. Tie’r caeri,423, 786, 1048. Tre’r coed, 203. Tre’r ddur, 650. Tre’r ddol, 863. Tre’r dryw, 789. Tie’r drwr bach, 227. Tre’r dryws, 227. Tre’r escob, 194. Tre’r llan, 320. TrerufFydd castle, 669. Treruffydd well, 669. Ttcslanog, 511. Tretwr, 26, 431. Tretwr castle, 433, 434. Treuddyn, 818. Trevor hall, 493,777, 1022 Trewanc, 827. Treweryn river, 354. Trewern waelod,998. Trewvn house, 30. Treyddin chapel, 454. Treyr castell, 62. Tri crug hill, 10. Tri faen, 322, 326, 718 734,1209. Tri frwd brook, 201. Trillo’s chapel, 756. Tringarth, 190, 1081. Trisaint, 881, 882, 948. Troadgrhw, 279. Troder aur, 970. Troed rhiw fed wen, 44, 863. Troed y ravvr, 974. Troed yr harn, 177. Trogan rock, 598. Troggy river, 318. froggy rivulet, 1258. Trostrey, 1310. 1314. Trostrey works, 1314. Trothy, 919. Troy house, 371, 919,926, 1359. Truman’s hill, 602. Trumpet house, 678. Trustlwyn, 48. Trwduay, 1267. 7 rwsgwl, 735. Trwst-Uywelyn, 765. Tiwyn gwnlliw, 985. Trwynmelin, 69. Trwyn y badau, 510. Trwyn yr wylfa, 401. Trygylylchi rocks, 1208. Tv'i du, 928. Tudenham, 101. Tudno’s cradle, 756. Tudwal’s road, 420. Tuldu, 323,718, 1208. Tumuli, 49, 139,512, 664. Turrock river, 751. Tuseulum, 548. Twrch river, 84, 85, 707. Twrch vale, 81. Twrn cadifor, 1289. Tycam, 973. Twy dee, 23, 30. Twymmin river, 1075. Twynbarlwm, 986, 993, 1104, Ty carreg, 44. Tycroes, 757. Tyddyn du, 866. Tyridyn tydyr, 352. Tyddin uchaf, 450. Tyddyn y coed, 402. Tyddyn y feliii, 402. Ty du, 466. Tp dwewi, 515. Tyglyn, 10. Ty gwyn, 275, 401, 767, 826. Ty gwyn ar daf, S25. Tylry, 111. Ty hir, 451. Ty holig, 451. Tyn hiros, 462. Tyndol, 85. Tymaur, 10, 401,462. Tynant, 85. Tynant bTook, 85. Tyn y cornel, 1302. Tyn v ddol, 1321. Tyn y grocs, 401, 809. Tyn y llywn, 1096. Tyn y pistil, 783. Tyn y rhos, 7, 1022. Tynystwll, 462. Tynytioll, 85. Tyn y wern, 401: Tythegston hall, 417, 1122. Tyrrau mawr, 243, 248. Tywyn, 197. Tywyn abcrgeleu, 1143. 1462 1164 Tywyn mcrionydd, 320. Ty yn y ca, 418. Ty yn y ca house, 225. Ty yn y llwyn, 187. Ty yn y vvlad, 186. Uckington, 363. Ultra pontem, 264, 1045. Undergrove, 974. Upper benvick, 1191. Upper boat, 257. Upper downing, 656. Upperton, 699. Upper wear, 1151. Up rossal isle, 820. Upton, 548, 590. Uriconium, 866 . Usk, 1309. Usk river, 197, 748, 1319. Uwch carreg, 859. Uwch mynydd, 421. Vach ddu, 339. Vachelich, 514. Vaenol, 53, 298, 301. Vale, see cwm. Vale crucis abbey, 435. Vale of blansenni, 190. Vale of clwyd, 779. Vale of crucis, 779. Vale of kerry, 157. Vale of senni, 190. Vale of the Dee, 785. Valeof Usk, 18, 25,271. Valindra, 196. Vallet’s park, 645. Van house, 308. Van mountain, 25, 433. Vanner, 98. Vanoleu, 179. Varis, 518. Varlyn pool, 233. Velin ganol, 514. Vellin vach inn, 618. Vclyn rhyd, 581. Venta silurum, 311. Veranda, 1265. Via flandrica, 512. Via llclina, 190. Via Julia, 178,194,318. Vincent’s rocks, 221. Virzen, 678. Voelas-hall, 355. Vortigern’s valley, 786. Vron, 441. Vrondeg, 300. Waen oer, 522, 1209. Walcot, 1008. Walcot park, 85S. VValetown, 957. Walford, 546. Wall-hill, 678. Walton, 363. Walwyn’s castle, 1246. INDEX OF FLAC Wapley camp, 697. Warbrook, 1191. War-close, 1125. Ware, 642, 645. Waresley house, 137. Wareley hall, 137. Warmly, 221. Warren mountain, 383. Wash, 1032. Water-break-it’s-neck,l 1126. Watteburgh castle. 820. Wattling-street, 135. Wat’s dyke, 100, 383, 455 1020 , 1161. Wayn, 1196. Wayn y mynach, 198. Weaver river, 1014. Wellington, 645. Welsh bicknor, 554, 1356. Welsh llanfair, 186. Welsh newton, 924. Welshpool, 1315,936,945 Welsh st. Donatts, 409. Wenallt, 999, 1138. Wenlock edge, 1194.’ Wentlog level, 255, 991. Wenvoe, 416. Wentwood, 770. Weobley, 643,693, 1061. Weobley ditches, 643. Weobley encampment, 111 1118. Weonards, 925. Weppra hall, 604. Wernault house, 278. Werndce, 16. Werndu, 928. Wern goch, 962. Wern llynwith, 1265. Wervilbrook, 333. Westbury, 222, 545, 1196. West coppice, 215. West felton, 1191. West hope, 643. Weston, 547, 610, 1196. Weston church, 546. West orchard castle, 416. Weston under Penyard,546. Westowe, 761. Wharton, 645, 680. Wheelock, 1013. Wheffrey river, 231, 233, 1352. Wheler river, 521. Whiston, 1044. Whitchurch, 444, 514, 912, 1154, 1195, 1219. Whitebrook, 1359, 1365. Whitccastle, 927. Whitchurch, 257. Whitcombe, 363. White-cross, 548, 640, 642, 644. Whiteford, 482, 521. White friars, 257. Whitehousc, 17, 30, 646. Whitehurst, 493 , 1022. Whitemill, 745. Whitesands, 1282. Whitland, 279, 824, 827. Whitland abbey, 825. Whitley, 1343. Whitley-court, 138. Whitney, 645, 676, 695, 1353. Whitney bridge, 921, Whittington, 493, 1191 . Whitton, 1196 . Wick, 549. W'jckfawr, 656. Wigmore, 1321 / 1118 . Wigmorehall, 1324 . Wilderness, 548. Willersley, 645, 676, 695, .1353- Willey cross, 1118 . Williamston, 591 . Willock’s bridge, 645. Willow ford, 257. Wilton, 548, 1154 . Wilton castle, 555 , 641 , n53> 1365. 1364. Winastow, 926. Winchcomb, 302. Windhole, 491 . Windyport, 667, 999. Wincfred’s well, 651 . Winforton, 645. Winsford, 1 O 13 . Winsley, 645.. Wintcrdyne, 137 . Wirrai river, 41 . Wiston, 957. Withybush, 592. Witton, 1 O 12 . Wobury hill, 1327 . Woldbury, 1355 , 1363 . Wolf’s castle, 595. Wonten, 644. Woodfield house, 137 . Woodhouse, 697. Woodstock, 598. Wooferton, 844, 1275 . Woolaston, 975, 1195 . Woolridge hill, 548. Wooten, 363. Wooten-house, 698. Worcester, 1326 ; history, situation, population,wa¬ ter-works, 1327 ; gov¬ ernment, guildhall, 1328 ; infirmary, county jail, house of industry, thea¬ tre, subscription library, bridge, city jail, 1329 ; castle, Edgar’s tower, trade, hop-market, distil¬ lery, market-place, 1331 ; walks, bishop’s palace. 1465 1332 ; Cathedral, Arthur’ chapel, i 333 ;monuments, tombs, &c. 1334; clois¬ ter, stone pulpit, organ, 1338 ; chapter house, crypt, refectory, school, cellar, lavatory, 1339 ; dormitory, 1340; church¬ es, meeting-houses, mo¬ nasteries, 1340; hospitals, 1341 ; musical meetings, schools, 1342. Wormbridge, 645. Wormesley, 643. Wormhead point, 1062 . Wormlow tump inn, 924. Worm river, 925. Worm’s head, 1264 . Worthen, 1196 , Wraysbury, 788. Wrekin mountain, 1344, 11 94- Wrenyvaur mountain, 336. Wrexham, 1345,454, 456. Wroxeter, 1190 . Wybre, 1011 . Wyddfa, 117 , 295 , 1198 , 1203 . Wye river, 1351 , 228 , 239, 940. Wyddgryg, 519. Wyndesley-house, 692. Agricultural remarks, 971. Anecdote of the women of Ardudvvy, 1270; relating to situation, 195; of Bux¬ ton, 1007. Anglo-saxon fortifications, how distinguished, 749. Bullbaiting, 844. Caractacus’s address, 1193. Churches, british & norman how distinguished, 749. Circumstance, aremarkable one, 253. Coracle, description of, 664. Cornish language, 308. Crocus, it’speculiarity,669. Cromlechs, for what pur¬ pose designed, 433; how distinguished from c*st- faens, 509. Crwth, a musical instru¬ ment, 74, 300. Cylleth hirion, (a knife) 43. Death, the infliction of a sport, 350. MISCELLANEOUS. Wynastow-’nouse, 919. Wynnstay, 456, 493,1359. Wynnstay hall, 1158. Yale, 438, 457. Yale castle, 438. Yarpole, 1118. Yatton court, 697. Yazer, 644. Y foel, 406. Y gaer fawr, 7. Ynys badrig, 70. Yniscedwin, 964. Yniscedwin awbrey, 965. Ynys cynvelin mine, 338. Ynis enlli, 95. Ynys gwyian, 420. Ynis hettws, 720. Ynislygod, 110. Ynys maen gwyn, 1299. 1302, 1303. Ynys seiriol, 64, 110. Ynys y brawd, 97. Ynys y byry, 1239. Ynys ycantwr, 1239. Ynys y gerwa, 1266. Ynys y moel rhoniaid, 70. Ynwsygerwn, 964. Ynis yralarch, 514. Yockleton, 1196. Yr alien wen, 949. MISCELLANEOUS. Demolition of venerable re¬ lics of antiquity, remarks on, 1188. Dunghill, what forms a complete, 209. Echoes, 286. Eggs, means of obtaining those of the peregrine falcon, 650. Flemings, account of, 904, 1264. Flowers, custom of strew¬ ing, 224. Food in Glamorgansh. 1854. Fortifications, roman, brit¬ ish, saxon, norman and anglo-saxon, how dis¬ tinguished, 979. Glen naidr, or glass rings, 301. Graves, on the custom of strewing with flowers, a poem on this subject by dr. Dodd, 169. 1167 Yrevelissa, 411. Yryannws, 401. Ysgollion duon, 736. Y Spytty efan, 805,1270. Y spytty e’en fyn, 1096. Y spytty istwidd, 572. Y spytty ’renwyn, 1096. Ystrad, 10, 236, 709. Ystrad corrwg, 279. Ystradenny, 703. Ystrad dunod, 790. Ystrad fawr, 1006. Ystradfellte, 190,964, 1086. Ystrad ffin, 752, 811. Ystradfflur, 237. Ystradfflur abbey, 240. Ystradgynlais, 190, 965, 1087. Ystrad marchell, 1319. Ystrad meyric, 39, 238. Ystrad owen, 409, 418. Ystrad teila, 713. Ystrad tywy, 811. Ystrad y fodwg, 894. Ystrol gwiddones, 1083. Ystym cegid, 1052. Ystym tuen mine, 338. Ystwidd river, 503. Ystwith vale, 8 . Yurglawdd farm, 43. Y vanner, 98,471. Hirlas, a drinking horn,739, 1058. Hirlas owain,apoem, 1162. Knappan, game of, 1291. Knights of Malta, 350,543. Language, of the decline of the welsh, 308. Lords or reguli of Wales described, 863, 960. Mead, a receipt for making, 62. Nails fortheshoesinascend- ing mountains described, 1200 , North wales, soil, 293. Pavement, tasselated, 312. Peasants, diet of, 310. Pibgorn, a rural pipe, 76. Pious memory, a poem, by dr. Dodd, 169. Puffin auks, 65. Roads, mistakes made in cutting, 74S. MG8 Roman fortifications, how distinguished, 749. Roman stations, where to be looked for, 27. Ruin, what constitutes a picturesque, 395. Saxon fortifications, how distinguished, 749. Sea, encroachment of, 579. Sea star, 658. MISCELLANEOUS. Sea walls, 994. Sewen, 250. Shield, a curious one, 7. Shield, ancient, 398. Shield of brass, 114. Snowdon guide, 119. Story, a marvellous, 184. Time, an apostrophe to,307. Turbary, the value of, 320. Tutenag metal, 522. 1170 Tythes, a source of contest, 293. Weddings in Cardiganshire, how conducted, 342. Welsh language, where most pure, 340, remarks on, 986. Wonders of Wales, 1346. Wreckers, their cruelties, 257. Col. 5, Col. 140, Col. 144, Col. 152, Col. 154, Col. 186, Col. 307, Col. 694, Col. 700, Col. 1193, ERRATA. line 4, for Lambeder 15, substitute Llanbadern fawr, 18. line 40, for Littoris, sub. Literis. line 42, for Sedam, sub. Sedem. line 52, for Petamabili, sub. Peramabili. line 23, for qusruntur, sub. queruntur. line 26, for Expod. sub. Epod. line 30, for vitiorem, sub. vitiorum. line 47, for honas sub. honos. line 32, for iacit, sub. iacet. line 42, for rifled, sub. rifted. line 34, for ingenius, sub. ingenious. line 7, for temporiem, sub. tempenem. line 49, for malace, sub. malice. 6 '. Nicholson, Printer, Stour port ' • ■ \