m t 4» s^i%^ From tfie X^rax^ of Paul Hibbert Clyde DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FRIENDS OF DUKE UNIVERSITY . MBRARY GIFT OF Paul.H, Clyde. ¥'iRO:NTIv^riE.€jE , Tay^rjiulp. TuUifhed hyVemor^mo(f ^mi^T^^7^ i9. mmmm^ AN ACCURATE ACCOUxNT OF LORD MACARTNEY'S EMBASSY TO CHINA; C,S;.REFULLY ABRIDGED FROM T^E ORIGINAL IVORK; WITH ALTERATIONS AND CORRECTIONS, BT THE EDITOR, WHO WAS ALSO AN ATTENDANT ON THE EMBASSY. embelfeljea toitl) piate0^ LONDON: PRINTED FOR VERNOR AND HOOD, NO. 31, POULTRY. \ ADVERTISEMENT. 'TnHE Editor of this little volume, -■- who was fortunate enouorh to be an attendant on the Embafly, and of courfe an eye witnefs to moft of the occurrences here related, had, at one time, formed an idea of giving to the Public a narrative of the various ob- jeas which naturally met his obferva- tion, from his own manufcript, in or- der that every clafs of readers might, at a fmall expence, partake of the advan- tage to be derived from it. But on perufing the Work publiOicd by Mr. Anderfon, he found it, on the whole, fo clearly corredl:, fo accurately A 3 defcriptive, VI ADVERTISEMENT. delcriptlve, and fo rationally conclu- five, on many points which have been deemed difputable by untravelled theo- rifts, that he was induced to quit his firft intention, and to .purfue the plan which he has here adopted, of abridg- ing Mr. x^nderfon's Book, with luch alterations, corredions, and additions, as were moft forcibly imprefTed on his niind. The profped of a country, luxuri- antly rich, and beautifully diverfified, will excite in different minds fenfations widely oppofite ; but in delineating it, if the pencil be faithful, the objcd viewed will appear precifely the fame, with fome trifling variations in the tints and colouring. So ADVERTISEMENT. Va So With refpe£l to the cuftoms, the manners, and the pecuHar habits of mankhid, thofc who are careful obfer- vers, and trace human nature through all her windings and whimfical pro- penfities, difcover much which may have efcaped the eye of the more com- mon obferver. Thofe (hades of dif- ference, however, will, on enquiry, be generally found to arife from a marked attention to the charadlers of a few. Contemplate the mafs of any fociety, and probably it will appear, that the conclufionsof the general obferver will be found as juft and as worthy of atten- tion, as thofe of the moft minute en- quirer. Thus V411 ADVERTISEMENfr Thus much it has been thought neceffary to premife, in order to fhew, that though Mr. Anderfon and myfelf may diiFer on trifles, there is no ma- terial variation of opinion between us, which will always be the cafe where two or more people have the fame op- portunity of viewing the fame objecls, and are all determined to relate the truth, agreeable to the beft of their judgment. THE EDITOR, May 25, 1795. CONTENTS. CONTENTS, CHAP. L Emharh on board the Lkn — Madeira — Peak of Temriffe — Batavia — Malays — Severity of tf^ir Punijhment — — — I CHAP. II. Voyage continued^^Arrlve at Cochin China — Tranf^ a£f ions there — — .^14 CHAP. III. Proceed up the TeUow Sea-^Difemhark-^And arrive at Met tow — — . ^21 CHAP. IV. Preparations for proceeding to Pehin-^Chinefe bak^ tng—Meat^Defcription of the Junks 25 CHAP. V. Sail for Pekin— Country and Inhabitants defcrihed-^ Tea-Tree-^Arrive at Tyen-Sing — 30 CHAP. CONTENT&.= CHAP. VI. Arrival at the City of Tong-tcheWf where the Voyage ends — Funeral of Mr, Eadesy ^c. ^c, 41 CHAP. VI L Leave Tong-fchew — Arrive at Pehin — Deferipticn of that City — Are canduSied to one of the Emperor's Palaces — . — .,^4^ CHAP. VI I L Defcription of the Palace of Teumen-manyeumen^'^ Return to Pekin — Defcription of the Viceroy' of Canton s Palace — — ^^ CHAP. IX. Departure from Pekin to the Emperor'' s Palace in *Tartary — Defcription of the Wall which feparates the latter from Chin a y i^c, i^c, — 64 CHAP. XI. Arrive at Jehol—Firfi Prefentation to the Emperor, who fends Prefents to the Amhaffador — Audience of leave — Object of the Embafjy defeated, 75 CHAP. CONTENTS. XI CHAP. XII. Returfi to Pekin — Arrival of the Emperor — The AmbaJJ'ador prefented to him — Receives Prefents ■ in return for thofe cf Britijh Manufacture — Or- ders to prepare for our Departure — Leave Pekiriy ISc. i^c. — — — 90 CHAP. XIII. PiSturefque Beauty of the Country — Punijhment of the Captains of fever al Junks for Enibezzkinent--' Voyage on the Tellow and Green Rivers — Chinefe Fijhing — — ' — 107 CHAP. XIV. Chinefe Method of watering Grounds — Journey over Land to Naung-chin-oa — Re-emhark — Grand lU lumination on the Hills, in honour of the Ambaf" Jador — ^^ — lar CHAP. XV. Mountain of Koan-ycng-naum defcribed — Arrive at Canton — Temporary Reftdence provided for the Ambaffador and his Suite — Embark for Europe-^ Arrive at Spith^ad •^ -^ — 128 CHAP* Xil CONTENTS. GHAP. XVI. Captain Mackintojhi' s yourney from Hoang-tchew t§ Chujan — Curious Method of lifting the Junks — - Chimfe , Alar ri age Ceremony — Their Ideas of Slavery — Anecdote of the prefent Emperor 138 Anarrative A NARRATIVE OF LORD MACARTNEY'S EMBJSSr TO CHINA CHAP. L EVERY arrangement and preparation having been made to enfure the fucccfs, and add to the fplendor and accommodation of an embafly, which had longengao^d a coitfiderahlc flupe of the public attention, Lord Macartney, with his whole fuite, went on board the Lien, at SpitheaJ, Sep- tember 21, 1792; and on the 29th of the fame month we took our final departure, accompanied by the Hindoftdn Eafr Indiaman, and the Jackall' brig. Nothing particub.r happened for iome days, ex- cept that t]je Jackall parted company in a gale of wind, in the Bay of Bifcay, and did not rejoin us till after we had left Batavia. B On 2 LORD MACARTNEY S On the loth of October we made land. Paflcd the Defart Ifland and Porto San6lo ; and next day cafl: anchor in Funchal Bay, in the ifland of Madeira. Lieutenant Campbell having been fent to tlie Governor of the Madeiras, to notify the Ambafla- dor's arrival, falutes of guns were interchanged be- tween the Lion and the garrifon. Soon after, the iBritifh ConfuJ, attended by fever al Englifh gentle- men and merchants, came to pay their refpc6ls to his Excellency, and to invite him on fliore. Having accepted the invitation, the yard arms were manned, during his LordOiip's pafTage from the fhip to thefhore; falutes were repeated; and at the landing-place, the Governor of the Madeiras, the Britifli Conful, and the principal inhabitants, received the Ambaflfador with evei^ mark of efteera and congratulation. During his ftay, he was fplen- didly entertained by the Britifli Conful and the Governor on fucceflive days; and before his de- parture, had the honour of a vifit in return on- board the Lion, from all the moft diftinguifhed perfons of the ifland. The town of Funchal is about three miles iu length, and one in breadth. Its population is very confiderable; confiding of Portuguefc, mulattoes,, negroes, and a few Britifli vvho are engaged in the commerce of the place. The natives feem to be courteous EMBASSY TO CHINA. 3 courteous in their (jifpofition, and attentive to flrangers. The iiland of Madeira is extremely mountain* ous ; but the views are beautifully romantic ; and verdure and fertility cover the moft unpromifmg fituations. We took our leave of Madeira on the i8th of 0(flobcr, and on the 21 ft anchored in Santa Cruz Bay in the iilc of TencrifFc. This iiland, in extent, liches, and population, is the moft confiderable of thofe known by the gene- ral appellation of the Cannries. The town of Sanu Cruz is pretty large, well built, and populous, and is defended by two forts, which alfo command the Bay. The Peak of Tcneriffe is well known to be one of the highefl: mountains in the world ; and it pre- fents a number of obje6ls which the curious en- ed.- Nothing but a refpe^l for the country to which they belont^eJ, and a regard to the miffion on which they were employed, could have ("aved them from certain death. This was not the only unpleafant event that befel us here. We loft a refpe^^able gentleman, th« Purfer of the Lion, who died, after a few days ill- nefs, on tlie 12th, and was interred on fhore with all poflible folemnity and refpedt. An infcription^ cut in wood, was placed on his grave.. CHAP. III. Proceed lip the Tellow Sea — D '//embark — And arrive at Mettow. HAVING left Cochin China on the i6th ot June, the Jackall and Clarence brig, with Sir George Staunton and one of Lord Macartney's fecretaries. 22: LORD MACARTNEY*S fecretarlcs, were difpatched to IMacao, on the 2Cthc Thefe gentlemen were charged with letters to the commiiTioners fent from England to notify the ex- pelled embaffy. The two gentlemen who were the Chinefe interpreters, took this opjx)rtunity of proceeding to revifit their relations and friends^ from whom they had been long feparated. In tak- ing leave of our countrymen, they difplayed a fen- fihility worthy of the moft enlightened minds. From the intelligence brought by Sir George Staunton, who rejoined us on the 23d, very flatter- JBg hopes were entertained of the fuccefs of the embafly. At a time when we were approaching the fceneof negociation, this news was highly gra* tifying. During our paflage up the Yellow Sea, wg pafTed numerous iflands. Several of the head- lands, which in our charts were as yet without a name, received the appellations of fome of the moft diftinguifhed members of the embafly. July 21, we call; anchor in> Jangangfoe Bay, Several officers were immediately lent in the cut- ter to Mettow, to reconnoitre the coaft, and t(J afcertain if there were any practicable means of approaching nearer the capital on fhipboard. The- Gutter returned oii the 25th. They gave a very favourable report of the reception they had expe- rienced from the Chiuefei but reported, that it; was EMBASSY TO CHIl^rA. 2Q was abfolutely impradticable to proceed farther, on account of llioais and other natural impediments. It was therefore refolved to difembark ; and a gen- tleman, accompanied by an interpreter, failed in the cutter to Mettow, to make arrangements for this purpofe. The mandarins promifed to provide large junks for the reception of the fuite and baggage, as foon as the wind proved favourable. Soon after, we received a prcfcnt of feme bullocks and (beep, feveral hogs, poultry, vegetables, and other produdions of the country. A principal mandarin alfo came on board the Lion, who finally fettled the mode and the day of the difembarkation. He was invited to dinner ; but not being provided with his ufual table appendages, he feemed to feel himfelf in an unpleafant fituation. The Chinefe neither ufe knives nor forks : whether we appeared moft ridiculous to him, or he to us, it may be dif- ficult to decide. He expreflcd the greateft admii- ration of the Ihip, and the various arrangements SiUii conveniencies he faw on board; but what •feemed to delight him moft, was his being hoifted into one of our boats in the accommodation chair. The greateft part of the baggage having been previoufly put on board the junks, fent to receive it; on the 5th of Auguft, feveral more came along- fide the Lion to receive the remainder, and to take the fuite. Before his Excellency difembarked, the Captain ,24 LORD MACARTNEYS Captain ordered the company to man iliip ; he was faluted with three cheers from the feamen, and a difcharge of guns from the fnips. The junk intended for his Lordthip's reception, being found inconvenient and filthy, as indeed they were all, he quitted it and went on board the Cla- rence brig. . On this occafion we occupied no fewer than twenty junks, of about an hundred tons burden; and proceeding flowly, from the various difficulties of the river, the whole fleet anchored oppofile the palace of the principal mandarin in Mettow, in the afternoon of the fame day. This town, the firft which we had feen in Oiina, poffefled none of tliofe attradions that arife from the elegance of building, or the beauty of fituation. It ftands on a fwampy fpot, frequently overiiowed by the fea, which no precaution of the inhabitants is able tD_ prevent ; and the houfes or • huts are wholly conftruc^ed of mud, covered vvith -bamboo, without either floors or pavements. The refidences of the mandarins, however, which lie at a fmall diftance from the town, are built of fton.c •and wood, three ftories high, and are adorned with f)ain ting, gilding, and piazzas. They appear to contain a confiderable number of apgirtments ; each palace being furniftied with prcje6ling wings, which are; ^generally of variously painted wood. Gtiards ^IBASSY TO CHINA. 2'5 Guards of both infantry and cavalry attend each mandarin, and environ his palace with their tents. One fohtafy fort, confifting of a fcjuare tower, was probably meant for the defence of the place, as its fituation commands the entrance of the river ; but having neither ordnance or garrifon, it fcrvcs rather as an ornament than a fecurity. The river here is of confiderable breadth, but of fmall and unequa^ depth. Acrofs its entrance runs a bank of fand. The furrounding country prefents a flat expanfe of a rich foil and great ferti- lity. Curlofity, which induced vaft numbers to croud the fliores, during the landing of the em- baffy, gave us a very grand idea of the population of Mettow and its vicinity. CHAP. IV. Preparations for proceeding to Pekln — Chlnefe baking — Meat — Defcrlptlon of the Junks, VAN Tadge-In, a mandarin of the firft clafs, being delegated by the Emperor, to fuperin- tend the progrefs, and provide for the accommoda- D tion 1-6 tion of the embafly, during its continuance in China, began the exercife of his fun6lions, by fur- nifliing us with junks which were to convey us to Pekin. The important truft with which he was invelted, proved his country's opinion of his abilities to execute it, and we had every reafon to confirm the favourable deciiion it had paffed. This dif- tinguifhed perfonage was about the middle fize, robuft, and finely formed. The darknefs of his complexion was relieved by a fet of features ex- prefTive of intelligence and feeling ; and his man- ners were at once conciliating and corre6l. On the 6th of Auguft we received from the mandarin a quantity of beef, bread, and fruit. The beef was well flavoured, but not very fat. The bread, not being baked in the European mode, though made of excellent flour, was Icfs a^^reeable to our tafle. It was in fa6l little better than dough, being baked without an intermixture of yeaft, which the Chinefe are either unacquaint- ed with, or reject its ufe. In fhapc and fize, the loaves refemble a common wafh-ball, divided in t-,vo. They are baked on bars ranged acrofs an iron pan, in which is a certain quantity of water, and placed on an earthen ftove. When the water begins to boil, the fl:eam is confined by a ihaliow tub for a few minutes ; and thus the bufinefs ends. This curious methotl of baking, or rather boiling, rendered EMBASSY TO CHINA. 2J rendered It neceffary for us to flice and toaft the bread before we could relifli it. Li the afternoon of the fame day, we received a variety of meats, both road and boiled. The roaft meat appeared as if covered with an oily varniih, and tafted accordingly: the boiled was much more agreeable to our palates. Perhaps we were a little prejudiced againfl Chi- ^y nefe cookery, from the accounts we had heard of their inditFerence in regard to animals killed on purpofe, or by accident, or dying of difeafe. It feems all are equally ufed. The reports that had reached our ears, in this refpe£t, were confirmed by the evidence of our eyes. Some pigs, being infe£ted with an incurable diforder, were thrown over- board ; but the frugal Chinefe inflantly picked them up and drefled them ; and while they were enjoying their unenvied feaft, appeared to laugh at the Englilli for tlieir faftidious delicacy. Nor is this groffnefs of appetite confined to thofe whom want may be fuppofed to flimulate. The higher ranks, in their domeilic oeconomy, appear to be governed by the fame motives as their inferiors, and adopt cuftoms at which Europeans in generc^l would revolt The fquadron received orders on the 7th to re- turn to Chufan harbour, and to wait for farther i«flru6lions» D a That -a8 LORD mAcartne-y's That attention toeflablifhed habits, which though inimical to improvement, is a fource of peace, has prevented the Chinefe from making any alterations in their naval arcbitedlure for ages. Their junks are iuilt of beach wood and bamboo, flat bottomed, and of various fizes ; and nearly a fourth part as broad as they are long. On the firft deck of the larger veffcls, employed in the navigation of rivers, is a ■range of apartments, confiding of bed rooms, par- lour, and kitchen. The floor from one end of the junk to the other, is full of hatches, which being lifted up by a brafs ring, open a flowage below for imaienfe quantities of (lores or goods* The win- dows are formed of fmall fquares of tranfparent pa- per; and the fafhes may be taken out on occafion for the admiffion of air. A coloured curtain on the outfide extends the whole length of the junk ; and this is either furled or drawn, according to the pleafure or convenience of the pafTengers. The main deck is laid out into chambers for the ufe of the crew. A gangway runs on ■ both fides the veffel, fo as to render the apartments private. it is aflonifhing how little water thefe junks draw. Some of two or three hundred tons may be navigated with fafetyon the mofl: flioally rivers. Moft of them have only one maft, which, as well as the rudder, is clumfy and inelegant. A very wife precaution is ufed in the navigation of EMBASSV TO CHINA. S^ of the rivers of China. No fooner does it become dark, but a lighted lamp is fufpended from the mart's head, as the fignal of approach. TJius the danger of veflels running foul of each other is pre* vented. Befides, thefe lamps being formed of tranfparent paper, infcribed with Chinefe charac- ters, fcrve to annonnce the name of the junk, or the rank of its paflengers. Otlier lights likewife are diftributed round the veffel at night. During the day, filken flags are difplayed, which being flamped with letters, anfwer the purpofe of no- tification, the fame as the lamps. Thefe lights and flags have fometimes a grand and a novel ef- fea. The mandarin and his fuite occupied five junks, and took tlie lead of the proceflTion. His ExceK lency the Ambaflador. and the principal gentle- men, had fevcn junks for their accommodation-. The fuldiers, mechanics, and fervants, brought up the rear. D 3 CHAP. 3^ LORD MACARTN£\'s CHAP. V. Sail for Fekln — Country and Inhabitants defalbcd--* Tea-Tree — Arrive at Tyen-Slng, "PJ^ VERY thing being ready, Lord Macartney ..Ly took his leave of the principal mandarin at Mettow, on the nvorning of the 8th of Augufl: ; and having received a very liberal fupply of provifions, tea, fugar, vegetables, and fruit, together with a quantity of wood and charcoal — for mineral coal is not known here, nor did we find it was ufed in any part of this empire — the embafTy proceeded up the river. Words cannot exprefs the effect the novel fcene produced on our minds, as we paffed through a country rich in the charms of nature and of art. Cultivation every where feemed to have exhaufted its diligent refources. The fields were enriched with its toils, and prefented a view of various crops, as luxuriant as fancy can conceive. Abundance of flieep and the mofl: beautiful cattle were feen grazing here in the meadows. The gardens, on tlie courfe of the ftream, ap- peared equally adapted for pleafure and utility; and however much Europeans may plurpe them- felves EMBASSY TO CHINA. 3 1 felves o[i their fupcrlor knowledge of agriculture, s/ gardening, and ornamental defign, the Chinefe, in mod refpcdls, would bear away the palm. Their tafte, to our eyes, may be lefs charte; but their di- ligence overcomes difficulties, wJiich in moft coun- tries would appear infurmountable. In this delightful voyage, the mandarin's guards -marched by day along the banks of the river, and at night pitched their tents, where the junks lay at •anchor. Both the fronts of the huts on land, and the veirds on the water, were decorated with lamps, and together formed an attra6tive Tight. 'I'hc ccntinels, who kept a regular watch during the night, were furnifhed with a piece of hollow bamboo, which they ftrike with a mallet at regular intervals, to lignify their vigilance and activity. This cuftom, the peyings, or foldiers, informed us, was univerfally adopted by the Chinefe army. At an/Carly hour next morning, the gongs gave the fignal for failing. Thefe inftruments arc made of brafs, fomething refembhng the cover of a large culinary vefTel; and when ftruck with a large mal- let, covered with leather, produce a found that may be heard farther than the European trumpet or bell, in the room of which they are fubftituted. With the ufual fupply of provifions, for the firft time, we received a jar of the country wine. It yi LORD macartney's It pofleffes a gcod body ; but the taftq is {liarp aixl unpleafant. In colour it refemblcs Lifbon wine. Military honours are not unknown in China. In paffing feveral populous towns, where foJdicrs were quartered, they were drawn upon the banks to receive the Anibaffador, while crowds of fpedla- tors filled every acccffible fpot of view. The uniform of a Chinefe foldier deferves a de- fcription. It confids of black nankeen trowfers, over which a kind of cotton flockings are drawn. Their flioes, which are alfo made of cotton, are extremely ckimfy, broad at the toes, and furniflied with immoderately thick- foles. From the top of their trowfers is fufpended a purfe, which contains their money. They have neither fliirts nor waifl:- coats, but only a large black nankeen mantle with loofe fleeves, turned up and fringed with red co- loured cloth of the fame iabric. A broad girdle confines this loofe robe, ornamented in front with a kind of plate, faid to be a compofition of rice. A pipe, and bag for tobacco, hangs from this cin6lurc on one fide, and a fan on the other. Thefe ap- pendages, and a fupply of tobacco, are allowed by the Empeior. They wear their fvvords on the left fide, with the point forwards. A bow is flung un- der the left arm, and a quiver on their backs gene- rally contains twelve arrows. Many, however,, carry Embassy to china. 33 carry fire-arms; and though it is impoffible for the Chinefe to teach Europeans any improvements in the arts of deftru6lion, in the caution they employ to prevent accidents with artillery and mufkets, they might give the vvifeft of us a kffon in the more commendable art of prefervation. The foldiers have a tuft of hair on tlie back of their head, which is plaited down the back, and tied y at tlie extremity with a ribband. The reft they ihave. They cover tlieir lieads with fhallow draw hats, bound under the cliin, and decorated with a red plume of camel's liair. According to our ideas, little that looks like military enters inio the coiii- pofition of a Chinefe foldier's drefs. Their colours are com.monly of green filk, edged with red, and painted with characters in gold. Of thefe they employ a great number. In failing up the river, we faw numbers of ruflic habitations, chiefly conftrufled of mud, with fome few of ftone. The country vvomen, with the cu- ricfity natural to their fex, advanced to fee the pro- ceflion. They feemed to walk with difficuky; havin>T their feet and ancles bound with a red fillet o to confine their growth. Their front hair is combed back on the crown of the head, and club- ed, and decorated with artificial flowers and filver pins; the hind hair is then brouglit up, and fccured •under the club. Except in regard to the decora- tions 34 LORD macartney's tions of the head and the bandages on their feet, the drefs of the Chinefe women differs but little from that of the foldiers. Our progrefs was by no means rapid ; but we were every moment attra6led by fome new obje6ls, which prevented our wifh for greater expedition. In the courfe of one day's failing, which could not exceed twenty-four miles, we pafled fuch an im- menfe number of junks, and faw fuch crowds of people, as would almoft exceed behef did we at- tempt calculation. Independent of the naoving fcenc, the river itfe]f, fpncious and meatvdering, was a noble obje6l; and the diverfity of its banks, and the views which occafionally opened over a rich and varied country, would have afforded a fcope to the moft glowing pencil. For the fiift time, we faw the plantations of the tea-ti'ee, on the loth. This plant, fo injurious to the conftltution, and (o captivating to the taHe, which, from being originally ah ufelefs luxury, has now become a neceffary info many countries, has# been well defcribcd by bctanifls, and a repetition here would be needlefs. We iliall, however, ob- ferve that it is of a low fize, with a narrow leaf, fomewhat like myrtle. It was now the feafon when the tea-tree was in bioffom. The bloiToms are picked when young, and mixed with the tea^o which they communicate a moKe agreeable flavour. Plentiful EMBASSY TO CHINA. 35 Pletitiful as tea appears to be in this province, it is iK)t within the reach of tlie lower claffes, as the ctew of the junks were glad to receive our tea leaves, which they dried, and then boiled, to pro- cure their favourite beverage. Tea is univerfally ufed in China without fugar; and as the natives, particularly the lower orders, frequently dry and reboil the leaves for fome weeks fucceflively, they unite oeconomy with gratification \ which would be falutary, if copied liere. On the morning of the i ith we approached tlie city of Tyen- Sing. The banks of the river here prefcnted fields of millet and rice. I'he number of fpe6lators that met us, both in vefTeJs and by land, exceed all calculation. For nearly two miles we obferved a range of fait heaps, difpofed in co- lumns, and covered with matting; but whether manufa6lured on the fpot, or for what purpofe fuch a prodigious quantity was coUedled, we were not able to a (certain. The noife and fliouts of an innumerable multl- ^ tude of people attended our entrance into the city. 1'his is a very populous and extenfive place. The Iwufes are built of brick, and are in general two ftories high, covered with tiles; but the want of regularity offends the eye ; and the ftreets are fo uncommonly narrow, that not more than two per- f*?ns can walk abreaft. Soon 30 LORD MACARTNEY'S Soon after our arrival, the Ambaffador, who was received with mihtary honours, went in full form to vifit the chief mandarin. His palace is large and loftv, palifadoed in front, gilt and painted in a very fanciful and expenfive form. Even the ex- ternal walls are decorated- with paintings; and the roof is coated with a yellow varnifh of briUiant ef- fedl. Here the Ambaffador and fuite partook of 2 cold collation, at which all the dainties of the coun- try were colledled. In honour of the diftinguifhed vifitorja Chlnefe play was performed. The theatre is a fquare wooden il:ru6lure, in the front of the mandarin's palace. The flage is furrounded with galleries, which were decorated with ribbands and filken ftreamers. The reprefentations confided of warlike ma- noeuvres, varied by flight of hand deceptions, and a difplay of perfonal agility, in which the performers acquitted therafelves with admirable adroitnefs, A band of mufic, confifting of wind inftruments, en- livened the fcene. The- novelty of both pleafed the eye, rather than delighted the ear. The female chara6ters were performed by eunuchs: the deli- cacy of the Chinefe would be fliocked at the pub- lic exhibition of their women. When the Ambaffador and attendants returned on board, fuch an immenfe number of people ac- companied EMBASSY TO CHINA. 37 companied them, in every kind of conveyance ca- pable of floating, that accidents appeared inevitable. V/e were witnefs to one, where part of the deck of an old junk giving way, from the enormous preffure of fpedtators, configned feveral perfons to a watery grave. A very liberal fupply of provifionshad been fent us before we embarked. Indeed, from the fuper- abundance, we entertained the crews who navi- gated the junks ; thus converting the hofpitality of the country to the relief of the natives, for which mark of attention they teftiiicd a due fenfe of gra- titfude. A prefent having been mades of fome parcels of filk by the mandarin Tyen-Sing, to the embafTy, an officer, by the dire6lion of the AmbafTador, dif- tributed them among his fuite; bat it not being poflible for every one to have an equal (liare, it was determined, after two pieces were diftributed to each of the gentlemen, the remainder fliould be difpofed of by drawing lots, by which means every perfon whether mechanic, fervant, mufician, or foldier, had an equal chance. The weather had been exc^ffively liot for fome days; and at an early hour on the morn- ing of tlie i2rh of Auguft w'c were vifited by ^ niort tremendous florm of thunder, lightning, K and 38 LORD macartney's and rain, which is not unufual in this ch- niate. It was found neceflary, during feveral hours tliis day, to employ men to tow the junks afong. In China, numbers follow this laborious vocation, to which they are called when the wind or tide fails. A roi>e is fixed to the mail:, and another to the head of the junk. The fe are of a length propor- tionable to the breadth of the river^ and are fixed, one at each end, to a flick of about thirty inches long. This is thrown over the head and refts on the bread, forming a kind of harnefs. Every draughtfman is furniflied with a fiinilar apparatus, and when all are ready, the leader gives the fignal to advance. The towers acSl in concert, and pro- ceed wnth a meafured flep, which is regulated by a kind of mufical tone, conftantly repeated. The fatigue thefe ufeful drudges undergo would appear exceflive to any but the Chinefe ; they wade through marfliy banks, and ftalk through muddy foil, with a perfeverance that claims at once our pity and admiration. Next day, when we received the ufual fupply of provifions, we fet about cooking them ourfelves; being perfetftly difgufled with Chinefe filthinefs in regard to their victuals. With refpe6t to rice, however, they deferve the praife of cleanlinefs. They wafli it well in cold water, and drain it througi^ EMBASSY TO CHINA. 39 through a fieve, then tlirovv it into boiling water, aiui when pulpy, take it out \v':ih a ladle, and put it into anotlier clean vefiTcl, where it is fuffer^^d to remain till it becomes quite white and dry. In this form it is ufed for brcatl. Indeed, boiled rice, and^fometimcs millet, with vegetables, fried in oil, conftitute the ufual food of the lower clafs. They eat regularly every four hours of the day, and fel- dom vary their humble repaft. Their tables are about a foot high ; on them a large vefTel of rice is placed, and each perfon, fitting on the floor, helps himfclf into a fmall bafon. The vegetables are taken up with a couple of chop-fticks, and eaten v^rith the rice. On particular days a more genial diet is ufed. The ufual beverage is a weak infufion of tea. Amid the new and extraordinary things which in fuch rapid fuccefFion caught the view, perhaps the number of the inhabitants tliat every where prefented tliemfelves, was the moll wonderful. It may be thought to border on the marvellous, but it is a certain fa6l that we could not pafs fewer than four thoufand junks in the courfe of this day. On the [5th we failed by the town of Cho- tung-poa. It commands a pleafant view, and ap- pears to be of confiderablc magnitude. E 2 Wherever 40 LORD macartney's Wherever the Ambaffador paffed he received military faiutes. Soon after leaving Cho-tung-poa we reached a tributary ftream, over which were two bridges with two arches of elegant archite£lure. On a gentle eminence, at no great diflance, flood the palace of the Ynandarin. It was built of ftone, two ftories high, and exhibited 'a favourable fpecimen of Chi- nefe tafte and defign. When we had moored for the night, the princi- pal mandarin of Tyen-fing arrived, with a nume- rous retinue, to pay his refpe6ls to the AmbafTador. A troop of men preceded him, who notified his ap- proach by fhouts. Then followed two men car- rying large iilk umbrellas, to fliade the palanquin from the fun, when lequired ; the flandard- bearers fucceeded ; then the foot foldiers ; the mandarin in his palanquin came next ; and a troop of cavalry brought up the rear. In tJiis flile, perfons of dif- tin6lion in China generally travel; and the liigher their quality, the more numerous their at- tendants. Next day was marked with no particular occur- rence. The banks of the river became more di- verfified and piflurefque • and both the eye and tlie mind were gratified and impreflfed with landfcape beauty, and luxuriant vegetation. In EMBASSY TO CHINA. 4>I In the evening we took a walk along the banks of the river. The corn was now almoft ripe ; agriculture appeared in its heft form i and copious plenty feemed to countenance and fupport the im- menfe population we every where obferved. CHAP. VI. Anival at the City of Tong-tchczu, where the P^'oyagc ends — Funeral cf Eades, tsfc. t^c. w 'E arrived at the city of Tong-tchew on the 1 6th of Auguft, and here our voyage ended. This place is diftant only twelve miles from Pckin. Expedation was now roufed, and fome de- cree of anxiety awakened. We found an inclo^ fure here, purpofely creded, for the landing of the bacTgage and prefents. It occupied nearly the fpace of an acre. Lord Macartney and the conducing mandarin went to infpccl it. A temple was allotted for the refidence of the embaffy, during its ftay at this place; and the whole fuite, of every defcription, received an invi- tation from the grand mandarin to partake of a public breakfaft; which was to be proviicd here^ E 3 next 42 LORD macartney's next morning. Accordingly, Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton fet out in two palan- quins, and were efcorted to the temple by a party of Chinefe foldiers. The breakfaft was compofed of various made difhes, meat, tea, wines, fruit, and confectionary. Every exertion was made to land the baggage and prefentswith fpeed an- cover a fymlwlic acknowledgment of the Chriflian Trinity? Truth, though obfcured, is not quite obliterated even in. countries reputed pagan. Wc fee faint traces of revelation ir^ India, and in China^ 44 LORD riACARTNEV's China, though wrapped up in the veil of myftcry and allegory. The court appropriated to the ufe o/the Ambaf- fador and I'uite, was handlbme and fpacious, deco- rated with lamps, gildings, and other Chinefe em- belliihinents. An hundred various difhes were ferved up at his Excellency's table for dinner. A number of Chinefe croudcd round, and feemed highly diverted with the difplay ot European man- ners, fo oppofite to their own. Indeed Chinefe fervants were diftributcd in the different apart- ments, to he ready at any hour of the day, to fup- plv tire ennbaffy with the various beverages of the country. Thefe aie chiefly tea, cold or warm. The city of Tong-tchew is about fix miles in circumference, almoft Iquare, furrounded by a high wall, to which an external ditch is added, in the moft acceffibie fpots. It has three gates, each well fortified, and may, altogether, be conlidered as a flrong place. The houfes are almoft univerfally of wood, of one flory high, pretty with exterior decorations in ihe Chinefe ftile ; but moft of them are deftitute of farniture. The {hop is the principal room. Before this are high pillars, fupporting an awning, covered vvith painting and gilding, and decorated with ftreamers. Thefe ftreamers indicate the com- modities EMBASSY TO CHINA. 45, moditles to be fold ; and fometimesa wooden figure is fuperadded, to dire£t to the fpot. In the form and fize of the houfes and fliops there is very little variety ; the fame plan prevjjls^ throughout the city in almofl: every refpe6l. The ftreets indeed are of different breadths; but all of them have a pavement on each fide for the accom-' modation of foot paflengeis. As a fubftitute for glafs, a thin glazed paper is univerfally ufed in China: however, fome of the palaces of the higher clafTes are furniflied with filk^ to admit the light. Tong tchew feems to carry on a very extenfive trade. An immenfe number of junks refort to it„ The population is computed at nearly half a mil« lion. The fummers in this climate are very hot; but the winters are in proportion fevere> as appears by ice of vaft tliicknefs being prefervcd to cool the drink during the hot months. In China, ice is efteemed a peculiar luxury The fhortnefs of our ftay, and tlie ignoranceof the language, rendered it extremely difficult to obtain any corred idea of the nature of tlie municipal go- vernment. It was, however, underftood that civil caufes were decided by a bench of the lower man- darins, but their judgment was fubje6l to the re- view 46 LOP.D 2kIACARTNEY's view of the principal mandarin, and even an appeal lay from him to the viceroy of the province. The ultimate fate of capital otfenders depends on the Emperor alone ; but death is feldom in- fli6lcd in China. Perfons far advanced in years, confefTed they had never feen or known a capital execution take place in their province. The mild manners, the fober virtues, of the Chinefc in ge- ral, render punifliments neither frequent nor fe- vere. An exadl police, however, is kept up, and delinquencies are expiated with promptitude and unerring certainty, if detected. Thus the hopes of pardon does not infpire a vicious confidence; and the extreme difficulty of preventing dete6lion, operates as a powerful difTuafive from crime. The Chinefe, however, feem to enjoy as much liberty of action as is reconcikable to the well-being of fociety ; and peace and contentment blefs their lives. The curiofity of the people was very trouble- fome during our excuriion round the city. We were frequently obliged to feek an afyluijn in the flibps till the gazing multitude had difperfed. The ft^cond day after our arrival, the ordnance and ftores were examined, and a trial made of the guns in the prcfence of the AmbafTador. It was found they anfvvered pcrfedtly well. In EMBASSY TO CHINA. 47 In the evening his Excellency was vifited by the chief mandarin, accompanied by Van-Tadge-In. A band of mufic performed during liis ftay, with which the vifitors fcemed vaftly plcafed. We had hither efcaped without a death, or any very ferious ilhiefs, in the emb:.lTy fince we entered Cliina ; but this evening wc loft Mr. Endcs, one of the mechanics, by a violent flux. To imprefs the natives with a favourable idea of the folemni- tiesofour funerals, Lord Macartney was pleafed to dire6l that the deceafed fhould be interred with military honours. In China, coffins are kept ready made. They are chiefly of the fame fize for all grown perfons ; are flrong and very heavy ; in (hape fomewhat like a flat-bottomed boat. The lid is fecured vvith a cord inftead of nails. Having procured one of thefe receptacles of mortality, we placed the corpfe in it with all poffible decency. Next morning, orders were iffued for the troops to appear with their fide-arms, except a ferjeant and fix privates, who were appointed to fire a volley over the grave ; and as there was no clergyman attached to the embaffy, an attendant on his Lordfhip was called on to ofEciate on this mournful occafion. The procelTion, having been previoufly mar- {halled, proceeded flowly to the burying-ground, about a quarter of a mile's diflance fiom the Am- baffador's refidence. An immenfe concourfe of , fpedators 48 LORD macartney's fpe6tators were allured by the novelty cf the fcenc to accompany us. Perhaps the moft fplendid ex- Jlibition would not have procured a larger affem- bly. The body was committed to the ground with ■due folemnity ; and the proceffion returned in the fame order as it went. In this country we obferyed that the graves were very fliallow. They have memorials of marble and flone as with us, charged with infcrip- tions. Some of the monuments here exhibited traces of no ordinary fculpture. This receptacle of duft was of very confiderable extent, but with- out walls. Except in the vicinity of large towns, there are no public burial grounds: in the coun- try, the deceafed repofe within the precin6ls where they lived. Several mandarins paid a vifit of refpedl to the Ambaflador, and notified that the day following WIS appointed for the embafly's departure to Pekin. CHAP. EMBASSY TO CHINA. 4g CHAP. VII. Leave Tong-tcheiv — Arrive at Pekln — Defcrtptlon of that City — Ae condiUlcd to one of the Emperor'' s Palaces, AT a very early hour, on the morning of the 21(1 of Auguft, the fignal was given by beat of drwm, to prepare for our departure. The foldiers were tiril marched off, and then the fer- vants; for both of wliom covered waggons had been provided. The gentlemen of the fuite fol- lowed in liglit carts, and Lord Macartney, Sir George Staunton, and the interpreter, had each a palanquin. In point of equipage and appearance, this proceffion was mean indeed ; it funk the diplo- matic dignity of a great and powerful nation. After leaving Tong-tchew, we entered a fine champaign country, through which we travelled orra road of uncommon breadth and beauty. A foot pavement, about fix yards wide, occupied the centre, and on each fide feveral carriages had room to run abreaft. Roads of a fimilar defcription con- duft to the capital from the principal towns of the empire ; and thefe are kept in perfe6t repair by la- bourers regularly difpofed, and conftantly employed. F We 50 LORD MACARTNEY S We reached the town of Kiyeng-Foo by fever, in the morning. Tliis is a large and populous place, and exhibits the appearance of commercial opulence. As it was moft probably a matter of ge- neral notoriety, when we were to enter Pekin, the concourfe of people who filled every accelTible fpot of view, and even crouded on us, notwithflanding all the exertions of the mandarins, confiderably im- peded our progrefs, and exceeded what we had hi- therto feen of Chinefe population. Yet to our mortification we obferved, that our appearance ex- cited ratlier ridicule than refpe6t ; and burfls of laughter accompanied every tranfient fight of us from our contemptible vehicles. We flopped nearly an hour at Kiyeng-Foo, and received fome refrefliments of meats, tea and fruits. Van-Tadge In likewife ordered fome joaa,an un- pleafant Chinefe wine, to be diflributed to the at- tendants of the embaflfy. This he did from the benevolent motive of enabling^ them to refifl: the xralls of appetite till another opportunity offered of gratifying them, which at prcfent could not be afcertained Of the face of the country between this town and Pekin, it is impolTilJe to fpeak. Myriads of people intercepted our view. We paffed beneath feveral beautiful triumphal . arches on enteiing the fuburbs of the metropolis. The EMBASSY TO CHINA. 5 1 The magnificence they difplayed, ferved only for a contraft to the meannefs of our appearance. Tiie houfes in the fuhurbsare built of wood, two Tories high, varioi'ily painted in front. The {hops make a very refpe6\able appearance. The flreets Mc fpncious; and on this occafion they were lined with foidiers, without whofe afTiftance it would have becii impoffiLle for the cavalcade to have ad- vanced. At two In the afternoon we reached the gates of the imperial city of Pekin, or Pit-chin, as pro- nounced by the natives. The walls inclofe a cir- cumference of twelve leagues. In the centre of each angle is a grand gate or entrance, and a lefTor one at each corner of the ramparts. They are all of (Irohg ftone arch work, and fortified by a tower of feven (lories, rifmg over each. The gates in- deed are double : the inner is of the fame form as the firft, except that it has no tower; and between them are barracks for foidiers. Ordnance and troops are Rationed at every gate; and though the olive branch of peace blelTes Pekin with almoft a perpetual rtiade, the arts of defence and of prudent caution are neither negledled nor unknown. At ten every night the gates are fhut, and till dawn of day all communication is fufpended between the city and the fuburbs. During that fpace, a fpecial F 2 order 52 LORD MACARTNEY S ordeE from the principal mandarin of the city is abfolutely neccflary to procure ingrefs or egrefs. The waifs arc of great height, and of maffy thicknefs ; the foundation is of {lone, but the fu- perftruiSture is vvholly^pf brick. Outworks and batteries at fliort intervals encreafe the flrength of the walls, and forts are very frequent, but except at the gates there are neither cannons nor guards. His imperial majefly generally refjdes here from October to April ; and during that period, foldiers patrole the walls every night. On the moft moderate computation, from the fouth gate to the eaft gate is a fpace of ten mile?. This was our route through Pekin ; and every ftep prefented fome new objedl to arrefl our attention* The ftreets are fpacious, clean and commodious, well paved, and well regulated. An exacSt police is kept up ; and as every public functionary, from the higheft to the lowed, is attentive to the dif- charge of his duty, order, neatnefs and adlivity arc every where perceptible. Large bodies of fcaven- gers are employed in feparatc diftrids in removing every fpecies of filth; and another clafs of men fprinkle the ftreets, to prevent the duft from in- commoding paffengers, or injuring the gaudy wares and elegant manufactures which every (hop pre- fents for fale. In EMBASSY TO CHINA. 53 In the capital, and indeed in almoft every town in China, the pride of architedural elegance and embelhiliment Teems to be chiefly difplayed in the 4hops. The tradefmen wifely Jay out the greateft expence in that apartment which brings them in the mod profit ; hence the fhops in general are magnificent, while their domcftic accommodations are neither numerous nor great. The houfcs here are low, but Jiighly embellifhed in front, with gal- leries, paintings and golden chara<5lers. Fine pil- lars are ere^ttd at the doors of the Ihops, fupport- ing a flag, which indicates the name and profeflTion of the mafler of the houfc. Thefe flags, with the intermixture of gilding, fculpture, and valuable commodities which attra6l the eye every moment, give an idea of fplendor, which fancy can fcarccly enlarge. The butchers fliops appear to be fupplied with excellent meat. On entering one of them, to fa- tisfy our curiofity in regard to the pieces of meat, and the mode of cutting it up, which laft is nearly the fame as our own, we obferved an earthen flove with a gridiron. The butcher conftruing. our figns into a want of meat, began cutting off aixl broiling fmall flices, which he continued to fupply us with till we were fatisfied. Perliaps w- rni^'-.t confume about a pound; and on pTVQdu'cii:o;'r.a firing. of caxee, the oxily cv.iii alUnv^tid t»di ji:>iQBr'^ Ft ■ . 54 LORD macartney's rent in China, he took off one^conderon, or ten, as the price of his meat. In this manner I faw numbers feafting on beef and mutton. In Pekin, as in every populous place in the world, numbers muft be engaged in humble though ufeful trades, in the ftreets. Many thou- fands here derive their livelihood from this fource. Thefe itinerant tradefmen, according to the nature of their bufinefs, either bear balls.ets over their fhoulders, or carry a kind of pack. Street bar- bers are very numerous. Thefe carry with them the implements of their trade, together with a ehalr, a fmall ftove, and a water bafon. Their cuftomers fit down in the ftreet, where the opera- tion is performed with dilpatch, and a mace is the general compliment to the operator. A pair of large fteel tweezers, fnapped with force gives the fignal that the barber is at hand ; and in a coun- try where it is impoffibic that any perfon can en- tirely fhave himfelf, if he complies with the efta- bliflied mode, this muft be a lucrative trade. Street au6lioneers, apparently poffefled of all the low eloquence and the vociferous exertions of that craft, prefent themfelves frequently on a kind of platform. The principal ftreets being of enormous length, are fubdivided by arched gateways, under each of which the name of the partial ftreet is written in gilt EMBASSY TO CHINA. ^^ gilt chara6lers. Thefe arches continually appear- ing, ferve as central objedls for the eye to repofe on. The crofs ftreets are terminated by fmall lat- ticed gates, ihut during the night ; vvliile the prin- cipal ones are inceflantly guarded by foldiers, who are armed with fwords and whips, to quell any dif- turbance, or to correct flighter irregularities. We have before obferved, that the chief care and expence is laid out on the fhops, and except in the variety of their embellifliments, an uniformity prevails in the heiglit and extent of their houfes. Few private buildings are more than one ftory high, and thefe are chiefly of wood. The imperial pa- lace, however, the houfes of the mandarins, and the pagodas, are diftinguiflied by their fuperior eleva- tion, as well as their magnificence. Palanquins are the falhionable vehicles of the great, while covered carts, drawn by a horfe or a mule, ferve for the inferior claffes. An opinion has prevailed in Europe, that the Chinefe women live fecluded from view. The fadt is otherwife: they frequently prefent them- felves from the galleries in front of their houfes ; and amid the immenfe concourfe that were aflem- bled to view our proceflion, perhaps there were more women in proportion than we fliould have feen in any principal town of Europe. The females of Pekin in general poflefs delicate features, 56 LORD MACARTNr.v's features, tlie efFefts of which they heighten by cof- metics. They al fo apply verm ill ion to the middle of their lips, which certainly is not an unattra6live addition to their beauty. Their eyes are fmall, but very expreffive; and their brilliance is contrafted by a peak of black velvet or fi Ik, fet with ftones, which depends from the forehead to the infertion of the nofe. Their feet appear to be of the natu- ral fize. In fa^L, the women feem to enjoy as much liberty as is confident with the delicacy of the fex ; nor is jcaloufy, as far as we could judge, a predominant pafTion among the men. On ob- ferving a crowd of women, we addrefled them with the word Chou-au, or beautiful, on which they gathered round us with an air of modeft politenefs, examined the make and texture of our clothes, and appeared to be vaftly entertained. They did not decline a gentle fliake of the hand, on one of our party taking leave; nor did the men who were prefent feem diffatisfied with our attention ar their condefcenfion. In our way through the city, we met a funeral proceffion. The coffin was covered by a rioh canopy, with filk curtains, highly ornamented, and hung with efcJtcheons. It was placed on a large bier, and had a great number of men to fupport it, who advanced with a flow and folemn ftep. A band of mudc followed, playing a Icind of dirge ; and EMBASSY TO CHINA. 57 and after them came the friends and relations of the deceafed, in drefles of black and white. Pafling the eaftern fuburbs, we again entered a rich and beautiful country, and foon arrived at Yeumenmanyeumen, one of the Emperor's pa- laces, diftant about five miles from the city. Here we found rather a fcanty and indifferent refrcfh- ment; but being much fatigued, the idea of reft was our mod acceptable gratification. CHAP. VIII. Defcrlptton of the Palace ofTeumenmanyeumen — Re^ turn to Pekln^^Defaiption of the Viceroy of Can^ ton*s Palace, THIS palace is low, both in fituation and build- ing. We entered it by a common flone gateway, guarded by foldiers; beyond this is a kind of parade, in the centre of which is a fmall lodge for the accommodation of the mandarins in wait- ing. The body of the palace is divided into two fquare courts, equally deftitute of elegance and convenience ; the windows of the apartments arc formed of lattice, covered with glazed and painted paper; 58 LORD macartney's paper ; and throughout the whole range there was no other furniture tlian a few ordinary tables and chairs. Not a bed or bed (lead was any where to be feen. Indeed the natives ileep on a kind of mattrafs, and cover themfeives with a cufhion of ftufFed and quilted cotton. They undrefs only partially, when they retire to reft, and encreafe the number of their coverings according to the feverity of the feafon. Inftead of bedfteads, they ufe a large wooden bench, raifed about two feet from the ground, and bottomed with bamboos or wicker work. On one of thefe feveral perfons may fpread their mattreffes. Every thing about this refidence evinced that it had been long deferted or negledled ; and indeed a more unpromifing fituation for a royal refidence could no where be found. The fituation was na- turally fwampy, and two ponds of ftagnant water communicated their mephitic odours to every apartment. Some fmall grafs fields belong to the place; but thefe too were an exception to the ge- neral cultivated appearance of the country. In fhort, centipedes, fcorpions, and mufquetos, infeft- ed every part of this palace ; and for fuch inhabi- tants it was folely adapted. Yet, difagreeable as the internal ftate of our re- fidence was, we were cut off from all external communication. Soldiers and mandarins guarded every EMBASSY TO CHI]SA. 59 every avenue ; and the embaify could be conii- dered in no other light than as prifoners of flate. His Excellency the Ambaiiador juftly conceiv- ing a difguft at a fituation fo unfavourable to health or accommodation, as well as derogatory to his perfonal dignity and the honour of his country, made a fcrious remonftrance on the occafion. His application was at laft produ6live of a change of refidence ; it was not, however, till the 26th that we were fufFered to quit this dreary abode. During this interval feveral unpleafant alterca- tions took place between the members of the em- bafly and the foldiers on guard. I'he former could ill brook the difgraceful reftraints laid on them by confinement within the walls of their prifon ; and the latter pertinacioufly oppofed every attempt at greater liberty. Thefe fracas were not unfrequent, and perhaps were produ6live of future ill confe- quences to the interells of the mifTion. Concilia* tory m^eafures by means of negociation would cer- tainly have been preferable to menaces which could not be carried into efFe6l, and altercations with thofe, who in the pundual difcharge of the duty impofed on them, were rather objeds of refpedl than of enmity and oppofition. So much pleafuredid every perfon attached to the embaffv feel, at the prolpcct of leaving this wretch- ed place, that every neceifary preparation was made for 6o for the purpofe in the fhortefl: pofiible fpace of time. Some of the prefents and the more delicate articles of art or manufadlure were left here, left they fliouid be injured by frequent removal. The proceflion fet out on its return to Pekin with the fame accommodations as it came ; and the arrangements having been made more perfc6lly than before, we arrived without any accident or confufion, at the north gate of Pekin about one in the afternoon of the 26th of Auguft. This was the counter-gate to what we had entered in our former proceflion through Pekin, and prefented new views of ftreets and buildings. A pagoda at- tracted our notice in our progrefs, being the firft we had found an opportunity of obferving. It llands in the centre of a beautiful garden ; is fquare, flone built, and gradually diminilhes from the bottom till it terminates in a fphere. It rifes to the height of feven ftories, and has a gallery near the top, encompaffed by a rail. As it is probable our return was unexpe6ted, we pafied with facility through the ftreets, and fooii arrived at a princely palace, belonging to the Viceroy of Canton, who it feems was a ftate pri- foner here for fome mifcondu6l in office. This palace confifts of twelve large and fix fmaller courts : it is built of a grey coloured brick, of moft elegant workman fhip , but except two detached edifices, EMBASSY TO CHINA. 6l edifices, which were occupied by Lord Macartney and the fccretary to the embalTy, the palace was only one ftory high, though this was of unufual elevation. Every thing without and within con- vinced us we now lodged in a palace: the embel- lifhments were in the firft ftile of Chinefe tafte ; and in regard to the beauty of colours and the brilliant efFc6l of houfe painting, no nation can enter into competition with this. The gloiTy ef- fe6t of japan is every where perceptible, w^ithout the intervention of varnifh ; for we were con- vinced that the beauty produced arofe from fome ingredients in the original compofition. The apartments w'ere very fpacious, and hung with the mod elegant paper, enriched with gild- ing. Lotd Macartney's rcfidence was fmgularly fuperb, and moreover had an elegant private thea- tre belonging to it j and in a \yord, all ranks and defcriptions were accommodated in a ftile that gave fatisfa6lion, and dcferved acknowledgment. Here, however, the furniture was neither valu- able nor in any quantity. Chairs and tables, a few platforms, covered with bamboo matting and carpets, were the only moveables in a palace whofe decoratioiis, both external and internal, w^ould not havcdifgruced the reildence of the Em- peror himfelf. Under the floor, in each of the principal apart* G nients. 62 ment, is a ftove, with a circular tube, which con- veys warm air to every part ot the room above. We faw no chimnies in this country ; and under^ flood that lloves fupplied with charcoal were the univerfal cuftom. The fupplies for the table were in the bcil flile of Chinefe living ; which confifts more of ftews and hafhes than folid joints. In this refpe£t, however, we had no reafon to complain ; but the fame vigilance was employed to keep us within the limits of our refidence as ever ; and on no pre- tence could we pafs the gates, or even fcale the walls, which were conftantly guarded by a mili- tary force. We were told that the palace in which we were confined, was built by the Viceroy of Canton chiefly from the fruits of his exa6lions on the Englifh, during his continuance in office, at the cxpence of near one hundred thoufand pounds fter- ling. Thus with impartial juftice the wealth of our country, unjuflly extorted, was made fubfervient to our temporary comforts. Though we wifhed that our continuance in this place might be of no long duration, as it was im- poffible to make any progrcfs in the grand obje6l of our miffion till we had an interview with the Emperor, yet every arrangement was made to add to the dignity of the embafly, or promote its conve- nience. EMBASSY TO CHINA. 63 nience. Having fettled this bufinefs, we waited with anxious expectation the return of a manda- rin, who had been difpatched to learn his Imperial Majefly's pleafure, whether we ihould proceed to Tartary, where he was then refident, or wait till the period of his ufiial return to Pekin. Among the mandarins who paid their refpeds to the AmbalTador, on his taking up his refidence here, were feveral natives of France, formerly of the order of Jefus, who being prohibited from the promulgation of their religious tenets, had, on ac- count of their learning, been promoted to civil rank in this country, and had aflTumed its drefs and manners. Thefe gave Lord Macartney hopes of a favourable iffue to the important em- balTy he conducted : but a Frenchman, though naturalized in England or China, will be a Frenchman ftill — the interefls of his country, next to his private advantage, will be the para- mount obligation. G 2 CHAP. 64 LORD macartney's CHAP. IX. in Depart lire from Pckin to the Emperur s Palace Tarlary — Dejcription of the Wall which J eparatcs the latter from China, 'dc. i^c. ' ON the morning of the 28th of Augiift, the conducling mandarin came to acquaint the AmbaiFador that it was his Imperial Majefly'jS pleafure to receive him in Tartary. A new arrangement immediately took place. The principal gentlemen belonging to the em- bafl'y were fclecSled to accompany his Excellency into Tartary ; feveral of the fcientific gentlemen, mechanics, and fick, were to remain in charge of the baggage, and prefents. Th*oguards, muficians, and fervants, received orders to hold themfelves in readlnefs, with only indifpenfible necefifaries; and even the gentlemen of the fuite were to be as little incumbered as pof- fible. They were to carry with them only the imiform of the embaiTy and a common fuit of cloaths : the muficians and fervants were to be dreflfed out in a fuit of ftate liveries, which, on being unpacked, it was evident that this was not their firft appearance in public; feveral of the dreffes bearing the names of their former wearers, and EMBASSY TO CHINA. 6;J .and from fome circumftances that we difcovered, had been made up for the fervants of fome former Ambaflador. But whether they were of diplo>- matic origin, or derived their exiftence from a meaner caufe, is of little importance to the readefr With thefe habiliments, fuch as they were, every man fitted himfelf out in the bed manner he could, though there was a general want of fuitable fmall cloaths ; and had the party appeared as ridi- culous to the Chinefe as they did to one another, they might have fuppofed we wifhed to acquire money by an exhibiiion, not to add dignity to an embalTy. The AmbaiTador and Sir George Staunton were to travel in an old chaife belonging to the latter^ which on being unpacked, had none of that gaudy appearance which diftinguiihed the works of art in this country ; and fome of them did not hefi^ tate to exprefs their difapprobation of its external appearance. Such of the fuite as preferred riding on horfe- back were to be accommodated on giving in their names; and carts were to be provided for the reft. The baggage and prefents which were to ac- company us having been previoufly fent off, the AmbalTador's carriage was to be driven by a cor- poral of infantry, who fortunately had once been G 3 a po{lillion;^ 66 LORD macartney's a poftillion, and a light horfeman, who was to aft: as his alliflanr. A man who has learned two trades is frequently ufeful to himfelf and to others; this humble corporal was the only man who could have headed the Ambafiiidor. He and his affidant were permitted to exercife the horfes in the chaife for a fliort time through the Itreets of Pekin, under a guard of mandarins and foldiers; and fuch crowds aiTembled to fee this extraordinary fpe£la- cle, that authority was abfolutely neceffary to re- ftrain the impertinent trefpaffes of curiofity. A number of horfes having been already brought to the palace, and the riders having made a feledlion, very early in the morning of Septem- ber 2, we began our march, but meeting with frequent interruption, it was fome time before we could pafs the city gate. This being efFefted, we foon drove through the fuburbs, and entered a rich and beautiful country by a road of great width, but without any central pavement. After travel- ling about fix miles we reached the village of Chin-giho, where we w&re allowed our morning refrefhments. In our route we paffed a great number of populous villages; and took up our firft night's lodging at one of the Emperor's pa- laces, named Nanfhighee. Our benevolent conductor, Van-Tadge-In, feemed to redouble his adivity as we approached the EMBASSY TO CHINA. 67 the imperial prefence. We were now furniflied every day with the bed accommodations, and re- ceived an allowance of famtchoo and Chinefe wine ; the former is a fpirit diftilled from rice and millet, and may dcferve the appellation of Chinefe gin. From Pekin to Jehol, whither we were bound, the diftance is one hundred and fixty miles, which was divided into feven days journies, that we might have the advantage of fleeping in an impe- rial refidence every night. This flattering mark of didincSlion is the highefl it feems that can be paid ; and is never conferred even on the firfl man- darins. The palace where we palTed the firft night had but little to demand attention, either in its external appearance or its internal decorations. It was environed by a fpacious garden j but to this we were denied accefs. We refumed our journey at four next morning, and took our firfl: refrefhment at the town of Wheazon, a place of fome confequence. From thence we proceeded through dufty roads, beneath a burning fun, till we reached the palace of Chan- Chin, where we halted for the night. This is a fpacious ftrud^ure, covering a great extent of ground, and Is adorned with gardens and planta- tions. The furrounding country is enclofed; and in point of fertility is eq,ual to any we had feen. It 6S LORt) macartney's It fed iinmcnfe herds of cattle. The (hcep here are fmall, but very fat; they have a thick fhort tail weighing feveral pounds. As we proceeded on our journey the next morn- ing, the diftant country alTumed a mountainous afped; fertility v/as fenfibly diminlflied, and tlie villages became more thin. About noon we faw the city of Caungchumfoa. It feems to be a large place, and is walled in the manner of Pekin. We met nothing worth remark in this day's march, except about two hundred camels and dromedaries, carrying wood and charcoal, entirely under the diredlion of one man. The docility of thefe animals, and their various ufeful qualities are too well known to be eninnerated. The palace of Caungchumfoa received us at an early hour of the afternoon, after the moft fa- tiguing and difagreeable journey we had hitherto experienced. The palace itfelf has little to dif- tinguifh it from thofe we already occupied, and the treatment which the Ambaffador and his at- tendants received, correfponded in every refpecSl with what they had undergone before, in their journey to and from Pekin. It is almoft unne- eeflary to fay, that however unfavourble appear- ances might be, moll of us gladly accepted of whatever was prepared for our refrefhment ; and it will be doubted by none, that nothing gave us greater EMBASSY TO CHINA. 69 greater fatlsfacHon than when our conduftor in- formed us that we might retire to the different apartments allotted for our repofe. Very early the next morning we were funi- moned together, and foon after departed. The roads now became indifferent, and the country dlfplayed a mountainous appearance. At a fmall dillance from Waung-chanyeng> we palTcd a prodigious arch, which united two hills, with a parapet of malfy ftrength on both fides. The farther hill is crowned witlr a fort, whofe ramparts ftrctch to to a very great diltance. Beneath this fort is a ponderous arch-way con- rmance of which ^he band played the favourite march, known by the appellation of EMBASSY TO CHINA. 75 of the Duke of York's: perhaps its notes may never as[ain echo through the courts of a Chincftf palace. CHAP. XL Arrive at J*lol — Ftrjl Prefentation to the Emperor^ zvbo fends Prcjents to the Amhajj'ador — Audience of leave — Ohjcd of the Embaff'y defeated, ON the next morning, being the 7th of Sep- tember, we continued our route over a hilly country, where the air was piercingly cold. We pafled feveral well-peopled villages ; but neither the country nor the people were the fame as on. the other fide of the Chinefe wall. Early in the afternoon we reached the palace of Callachotrefhangfu, in extent and form equal to any we had lately feen ; but we found it tenanted only by fquirrels which bounded round the courts and haunted the apartments. Next morning we arrived at one of the Em- peror's pagodas, where we found an abundant fupply of provifions. Here we made a fliort flay to arrange our drefs and equipage. H 2 Next 76 Next we came- to the village of Qiioangcho, within a mile of Jehol, the imperial refidcnce. Here we were marfhalled, and proceeded amid an immenfe concourfe of fpe£lators, with all the pa- rade that circumftances would allow. The fol- dicrs of the royal artillery led the way — the light- horfe and infantry fucceeded — Ambafiador's fer- vants two and two — couriers — mechanics two and two — muficians two and two — the gentlemen of the fuite two and two— Sir George Staunton, in a palanquin — the Ambalfador and Mr. Staunton clofcd the cavalcade in the poft-chaife, behind which flood a black boy in a turban. The military made a mofl refpedable (hew ; and the gentlemen of the fuite, it may be reafon- ably fuppofed, were not forgetful of their dignity, and ftrove to fupport it by every external difplay ; but the generality were a motley groupe, without even the advantage of a tolerable uniformity in diefs or appearance. The whole certainly could not convey any extraordinary ideas of the fplendor or power of the country from which we came. The Chinefe might poflibly be amu fed with the novelty of the fcene, but they could not be im- preiTed with its grandeur. Proceeding with a flow pace, in this ftate we reached Jehol about ten in the morning, and drew up before the palace provided for the recep- tion \ EMBASSY TO CHINA. 77 tion of the embaiTy. The Britifli military formed a line for the AmbaiTador as he paiTed ; but not a mandarin was in^vvaiting to receive him ; and we took pofTcllion of the palace without the welcome of an addrcfs. It was indeed given out that the Grand Choulaa, or Minifler of State, would meet the AmbaiTador, and efcort him into Jehol; and after our arrival, we were kept for fome hours in anxious expecta- tion of receiving this honour; but at lart dinner being fcrvcd up, put an end to our hopes ot feeing him for the day. The palace v/e now inhabited is fituated on the declivity of a hill. We entered it by a wooden gateway, which conduCls to a large court. Each fide of this court has a long gallery, fupported by wooden pillars, and roofed with black glofTy tiles. That on the left was converted into a kitchen, the other ferved for the foldiers to exercife in. At the upper end was another gallery of more ele- gance, from which a door opens into a farther court, the principal apartments of which were ap- propriated for the ufe of the AmbaiTador and Sir George Staunton, the reft for the military gentle- men attached to them: a third court was occupied by the gentlemen of the fuite, the muficians, fer- vants, and mechanics. The whole fabric is fur- H 3 rounded \ ^8 LORD macartney's rounded by a high wall ; but owing to the decli- vity of the fituation, the view was not wholly confined. Such was our fituation at Jehol ; we had plenty within our walls, but no one had liberty of egrefs. The fecond day after our arrival, the AmbalTa- dor received a vifit from a mandarin, with a nu- merous retinue. He remained nearly an hour in conference with his Excellency and Sir George Staunton. jDuring his flay, his attendants amufed themfelves in examining the drefs of the Englifh fervants ; and on rubbing the lace on their cloaths Tvjth a (tone, to afcertain its quality, fmiled when they found it lefs valuable than brilliant. What paffed at this conference could not be ge- nerally known ; but a fpirit of conjedure was conjured up among the attendants on the emba0y, and the prefages they formed were by no means favourable. Inftead of that profufion which had hitherto crowned our board, the lower clafles in the em- bafly found fcarcely enough at dinner this day to fatisfy one half of them. They had, however, been previoufly inftruded, though for what reafon we knew not, that if their provifions fhould be de- fedive in quantity or in quality, they were to in- timate the grievance to his Excellency alone, and leave EMBASSY TO CHIXA. 79 leave them untouched. An Englifliman cannot cafily be reconciled to confinement, and much lefs to famine. We could perceive fomething too of a meditated difrefpcft, and of courfe felt fome larm. According to our inftru£lions the meat was left untouched; but his Excellency having remohftrated to the mandarin by means of his in- terpreter, in a few m'nutes every table w^as ferved with hot difhes, in the ufual variety and profufion. Why this entertainment, which muft have been nearly ready, was thus witheld, and fo fpeedily produced, ferved as an enigma to exercife our in- genuity, but which we could never folve. In- deed no other ideas could poflibly be entertained of it, than that of an effort of Chinefe ingenuity to try the temper of Englifhmen, which but for the prudent fleps taken by the AmbafTador, might have been produdive of much mifchief to the un- dertaking^K. Next day, the prefents brought from Pekin were unpacked; they confifled of a great number of pieces of coarfe cloth, principally black and blue, tv/o telefcopes, two air-guns, two richly mounted fowling-pieces, two pair of faddle piflols, two boxes of Irifh tabbinets, two large boxes of Bri-. tiih carpeting, and two mofl elegant faddles with furniture complete. Centinels were placed to guard 80 LORD macartney's guard thefe fpecimens of Britifh art and manu- fa6lure, till the imperial pleafure refpefting them fhould be known, which was afterwards notified by the attendant mandarin, with as much civility as could be expe6led from the fuppofed greatnefs of his office. A mandarin of the firfl order, on the I2th of September, came to acquaint the Ambaf- fador, that his Imperial Majefty would gtve him an audience on the 14th. This intelligence difFufed hope and fpirits through the whole em- baiiy. Orders were iffued that the fuite fhould be ready on the morning of the day appointed, to accompany his Excellency to the imperial palace. The at- tendants were to appear in their beft liveries ; and the foldiers and fervants, after having efcorted the Ambaffador, were to return immediately to their quarters ; his Excellency informing them> that he had reafon to hope the reftri6lions impofed on them, which were fo irkfome to all, would in a few days be removed, by his endeavours. ll'is Excellency was fplendidly dreft, in mul'- berry velvet, with his diamond f^ar and ribband, and over the whole he wore the full habit of the order of the Bath. Sir George Staunton was in a full court drefs, over which he wore the gown and EMBASSY TO CHINA. 8l and hood of a do6lor of laws, with the academical cap. From the darknefs of the morning, a confider- able confufion arofe in the intended order of the cavalcade; but as parade is ufelefs when no one can fee it, the faihue was of little confequence. As early as five in the morning, the Ambaffa- dor alighted from his palanqnin, amid an im- menfe number of the populace. Sir George and Mr. Staunton fupported his train. In our return, being now day light, we had a view of the city. It is large and populous; but very irregularly built. The houfes are low, and chiefly of wood. Except in the quarter contigu- ous to the imperial palace, none of the ftreets are paved. The principal fupport of this place feems to be derived from the Emperor's partiality for it. No river connedls it with remote fituations : the fplen- did expence of a court, however, renders it rich and bufy. The furrounding country, though not comparable to China, is in the beft ftate of Tar- tary cultivation. His Excellency's vifit, being merely a matter of form and prefentation, did not engage him long. He returned before noon. The Emperor, it is faid, received the credentials with all the dig- nity 82 LORD macartney's nity of form. He appeared to be vaftly flruck •with the manners and abilities of Mr. Staunton, to whom he prefcnted, with his own hands, a beautiful fan, and fome embroidered purfes. Soon after the AmbafTador's return, a number of valuable prefents were received from court, confiding of velvets, filks, and purfes, and fome of the fined tea of the country, made up into folid cakes of about five pounds each. Except fuch as were addrefTed for their Britannic Majeflies, thefe prefents were proportionably divided among the gentlemen of the fuite. Next morning, the Ambaffador, attended only by his fuite, paid a fecond vifit to the Emperor, in order, as we underdood, to attempt to open the wifhed for negociation. On this occafion he flopped feveral hours. The interpreter gave a very favourable report of the afpedl of the nego- ciation, as far as it had advanced ; and our hopes for its fuccefs feemed to derive fome coiTfirmation from a fecond cargo of prefents, confifling of filks as before, Chinefe lamps, and valuable porce- lain ; to thefe were added a number of calibafh boxes of the mofl exquifite fabric. A diflribution was made as before; and mirth and fedivity, arifmg from fanguine hopes of fuccefs, crowned the evening of the day.^ Several EMBASSY TO CHINA. S;^ Several mandarins vifitcd the Ambaffador on the 1 6th of September, and invited him and the whole cmbafTy to attend the anniverfary of the Emperor's birth-day at court, on the morrow. Accordingly, his Excellency fet out very early in the morning, and the whole cavalcade reached the imperial palace about four o'clock. This pa- lace commands an elevated fituation and extenfive fiews: it contains a numerous range of courts, none of which, however, appear very magnificent, though fome of them are highly decorated with painting and gilding. The gardens furround it for fevcral miles ; thefe are bounded by a wall thirty feet high. In the front of the palace is a. fine lawn, with a lake in the centre. When the Emperor approached, the mandarins in waiting proftrated themfclves, or it would have been impb(hble to have diftinguiflied his palanquin from one of theirs. No external pomp or badge of dignity, marked his drefs or equipage. It is a favourite maxim of his government to check fu- periluous expence, and to encourage frugality and indufliry in every department of his government. A6luated by the fame wife and patriotic princi- ple, he has forbid any public rejoicings on his birth-day, in this lefs flourifliing part or his em- pire ; but fuch unfeigned homage is paid to his digniiicd and amiable character, that except in his immediate 84 LORD macartney's immediate prefence, and under his perfonal view, all ranks and defcriptions of men, throughout his extenfive dominions, give a loofe to joy on this aufpicious day. He had now completed the 85th year of his age, and the 57th of his reign. In the palanquin we could only obferve his countenance, which vv^as animated, and little exprefllve of his advanced years ; his eyes were dark and piercing ; and his whole air bore the Impreffion of the con- fcious dignity of virtue rather than of rank and liate. Our return was followed by a repetition of the fame kind of prefents, varied in pattern and co- lour. A profufion of fruits and confe6lionary accompanied thofe exprelfions of imperial muni- licence. In the confedlionary art, the Chinefe feem capable of giving a leffon to the moft emi- nent in that line among the Europeans. Next day, the AmbafTador went in a more pri- vate manner to have an audience of leave, as the court was foon to return to Pekin. At the fame time, he tranfa6led certain official bufmefs, the refult of which w as generally fpoken of among the fuite in the following terms: That the Emperor declined [entering into any written treaty with Great Britain, or indeed with any nation, as being contrary to ancient ufage ; at the fame time he exprefled the highefl refped for J^ EMBASSY TO CHINA. 85 for the Briiifli nation and the King; and was ftrongly difpofed to give them a preference in all commercial concerns ; but that he would not facri- ficc the interefts of his own people to any foreign connections, and would only continue his avowed partiality for the Englilh, while he found they conducted themfelves in their commercial intcr- courfe in fuch a manner as to dcferve it. To evince his high perfonal regard for the King of Great Britain, he delivered to the Ambaf- fador with his own hand, a box of great value, containing the m'liiatures of all the preceding em- perors, with a fliort chara£lcr of each in vcrfc, written by themfelves; accompanied with the fubfequent addrefs: " Deliver this cafl^et to the King your mafter, and tell him from me, that fmall as tlic prefent may appear, it is the mod valuable I have to be- fit- w, or my empire can furnilli. It has been tranfmitted to me through a long line of ancef- tors; and I had refervcd it as the lafl token of af- fc6lion I had to bequeath to my fon and heir, as a tablet of the virtues of his progenitors, which I ibould hope he had only to perufc to be induced to imitate; and to make it, as they had done, the grand object of Ids life to exalt the imperial ho- nour, and advance the happinefs of his people.'* After dinner, the Amballador returned with his whole fuite and attendants, to fee a play performed I in 86 LOP.D macartney's in the Imperial palace, on a temporary :ftage. The dramatic entertainments confiiled of mock battles, vaulting, tumbling, rope-dancing, and other gynmaftic amufements, which would have done no difcredit to any performers. A variety -of deceptions concluded the theatrical fete. One of which was the exhibition of a large bowl, in every pofFiblc pofition ; which was immediately placed on the (tage, bottom up wards. and on -being lit ted up again, difcovered a large rabbit, wWch ei'capcd from the performer by taking refuge among the audience. The fpe6lators in general, including many of our own people, were totally .at a '-jls to account for this deception; but to many of us it was no novelty, having frequently i_'Cii the fame trick .exhibited by the jugglers of our own country. Other fimilar tricks, very dexterouily performed, amufed us by their novelty and apparent difficulty. The theatre made a fplendid appearance, being well-filled with per- fons of di{}:in6tion. Next day, pipes and tobacco, fufficient to.fup- ply every individual belonging to the embalTy, were received; and feveral mandarins came to pay their refpeds to the AmbaiTador. In „thefe vilits we obferved how little regard is .paid to ex- ternal .appearance in China. The mandarins never varied their habits; and even the court- drelTes :here diiFer very little from the ordinary habiliments. EMBASSY TO CHINA. oj habiliments. It maybe faid to confiilof a loof^ robe, falling half way down the leg, and drawn rouiid the neck wiiii ribbands. Over the bread is a piece of embroidery, about five inches fquare, finifhed in gold, or filk-of various colours, whh ail exact, counterpart on the back \ which badges de- note the rank .of the wxarer. The fafh, which at other times is ufually worn round the waiil, is dif- pcn fed with at court. Oil our approaching the coaft of China, Lord Macartney had communicated the general orders by which the condud of the embafly was tb be regulated: thefe feemed to be dictated by good fenfe, and a regard to the fuccefsful profecution of the grand objedts in view. His Lordfhip's obfervations and injundions, however, delivered at the fame time, did not feem to accord with the fj)irit of liberty and perfonal fecurity, which ac- companies an Englifhman wherever he is placed; and it is to be feared they gave no very favourable idea of the Britilli character to thofe on whom it was wirtied to imprefs the higheft. Hitherto they had not been attempted to be carried into execu- tion ; and it was generally believed, that a per- fon of fome rank in the embalTy never approved of their tenor , but now it was intimated, that all the fervants of the Ambadador were to confider tbemfclvcs as under martial Uw, and that they I 2 ' would S8 would be puniihed accordlng.to its regulations, in uny caie of difobedicnce or negle6l. It is true that the experiment was never made in regard to the civil fervants of the embaily ; but the alarm which this information gave was -deeply felt and inwardly refented. Among the orders given out, was ah exprefs injunction, forbidding any traffic with the natives, l^his we believe w^as pundually obferved, as far as gain was concerned ; but a private in the in- fantry, compofing part of the AmbafTador's guard, having been reported to have procured a fmall quantity of famtchoo by the Affiftance of a Chi- iiefe foldier, he was immediately confined; and being brought to a court-martial, of which a cor- poral was prefident, he was fentenced to receive llxty laflies. This fentencebeins; approved by the command- ing officer, the Britifli foldiers were drawn up in form, in the outer court of the palace where we refided; and the poor culprit being faflcned to one of the pillars of the great portico, received his puuiilmient without mitigation. The abhorrence excited in the breafts of the Chinefe, at this cruel condu(5^, as it appeared to them, was demonftrably proved by their words and looks. They exprefled their aftonifhment, that a people profefling the mildeft, the mod be- nevolent EMSASSY TO CHINA. bQ nevolent religion on earth, as they willicd to have it believed, could be guilty of fuch flagrant inat- tention to its merciful di6^ates. One of the prin- cipal mandarins, who knew a little Engliih, cx-^ preiTed the general fentiment, " Eriglilhman too much cruel, too much bad." But it feems the commander of the Lion went a flcp farther towards alienating the affections of the Chinefe front our countr)'men. When that fhip lay at Chufan, a native brought a bottle of famtchoo on board, intending to cxcliange it for fomc European article. His defign being difco- vercd, tjie Captain ordered him to be feized and punilhed with twelve lathes, in the prefence of numbers of his countrymen ; though a complaint preferred to a mandarin would have obtained the fatisfaclion neceffiny, and faved the appearance of arbitrary and cruel condud\. The mild manners of the Chinefe indeed revolt \/ at the public exhibition of puniiliments: they arq at a lofs to reconcile European behaviour with European profeilions. Our faith and practice, in almoil every inftance, appears to them to be op- pofite ; and thefe circumibnces we have had tlic pain to record, as well as feveral others which oc- calionally happened, inftead of removing unfa- vourable prejudices, feemcd to legitimate and fuiidion their continuance. is CHAP. 90 LORD macartney's CHAP. XII. Return to Pehln — Arrival of the Emperor — The AmbaJJ'ador prefented to him — Receives Prefents in return for fhoje of Britijh Manufuciure — Or- ders to prepare for our Departure — Leave Pekin^ tfc. iffc. HAVING previoufly been informed that th€ embafly was to proceed to Pekin, where its final iiTue v/as to be arranged, we fet out from Jehol on the morning of the 2ift of September, after a ftate imprifonment of fourteen days ; for the liberty we had been encouraged to expedt, was never granted. In this place, however, it may be proper to give fome account of two extraordinary rocks in the vicinity of Jehol. One is an immenfe pillar of ftone, about an hundred feet high, fmall at the bafe, and gradually fp reading towards the top, from feveral parts of which iffue ftreams of the pureft water. This lofty obje^l is fitnated on the pinnacle of a mountain, which adds to its fublime efFe6l. The upper part of this rock is rather flat, and appears to be^ cloathcd with verdure and fhrubs^ but it is totally inacceflible. Some con- vulfion of nature mull certainly have placed it hercj EMBASSY TO CHINA. 9I here; and it is impoflible to view it from the valley below without the llrongeft emotions gS wonder and fear. The Chinefc give it the namt of Panfuiafhaung; and juftly eflecm it as one of ihc firft natural curiofities of their country. The other is rather a clufter of rocks, whofe greateft height is nearly two hundred feet: thefe Hand likcwife on the fummit of a mountain ; and from one point of view, appear one folid mafs. Perhaps the world does not produce two grander objetSls of the kind. Soon after we left Jehol, we pafied the Em- peror's pagoda, where we faw the tributary King of Cochin China's AmbafTador and fuite, advanc- ing with the annual acknowledgment. We flept at the imperial palace of Callachot- tueng, mentioned before, where we loft an artil- lery-man, of the bloody-flux ; of which alarming malady fevcral others among the military were ill. The attendant mandarin expreffed great appre- henfion, left the Emperor fhould hear of this cir- cumftancc, and an alarm of contagious diforders be given him. Next morning we received intelligence, that the Emperor had left Jcliol, and that it would be neceflary to advance two ftages this day in order that the palaces might be at liberty to accommo- date his majcfty's attendants. Purfuins: 92 Purfuing the fame route as we had done before, and retracing the fame objcfts, our journey to Pekin was barren of inciderits or novelty. We arrived there on the afternoon of the 26thy and took up our refidence in the palace which had been appropriated for our ufe before we fet out for JehoL The arrangements which had been made, during the Ambafiador's abfence, feemed to meet his entire approbation ; and as our flay here, at this period, was likely to be of fome con- tinuance, every preparation and provifion was made for the domed ic. comfort of the eftabUlh- ment, and the fplendor of the embaiTy. The {late canopy was erefted in the principal room of the Ambaffador's apartments. It was made of flowered crimfon filk, and fringed with gold. The back difplayed the arms of Great Britain. Under its cover five chairs of date were placed ; the centre one being elevated above the _ reft for the Ambalfador. At the other end of the apartment were hung whole length portraits of their Britannic Majefties. The whole formed an appearance for an audience-chamber, equal to the confequence of the country reprefented. The arrival of the Emperor was announced by a grand difcharge of artillery on the 28th. Next day his Excellency was vifited by feveral piandarinsj and fome packages of Britifh manu- fadure EMBASSY TO china; 93' fa£lure were put in a Hate of being pre Tented to the Emperor. Sicknefs, at this time, prevailed fo much among the foldiers, attached to the embalTy,. that it was found expedient to eitablilh an holpilal in fome Vftcant buildings witliin the preciivRs of the palace in which we rcfidcd, for their reception,, and more fpecdy recovery. On the ill of Odl'^ber, a mandarin requeued, in the name of the Emperor, that the ordnance prefents might be fent to the palace of Yeumen- manyeumen, where the Chinefe themfelves were to prove and examine them. The chariots and other prefents were alfo removed to the fame place. The following day, the AmbaiTador received ft formal invitation to wait on the Emperor on the morrow. His Excellency went m a private man- ner, and tranfacled bufinefs with the officers of ftate. The conference laded for two hours; ami there were no apparent reafons for fuppofmg that the objeds of the million were not in a progref- five ftate of fuccefs. The imperial palace in Pekin ftands in the middle of the city, and is furrounded by a very high wall. It is faid to occupy a circumference of about feven miles, containing gardens both for ploafure and utility, rcolcnillied with all that is rare 94 LO^D macartney's rare in art or nature. Our view of' the whole was very confined : and from a6lual obfervation we can fay nothing of the internal fplendor of the palace, or the beauty of its appendages. We muft, however, confefs, that this royal refidence had (bmething of an impoilng appearance, com- pared with the furroundiiig obje6ls; buf. there is great reafon to doubt whether it deferves the ex- traordinary character and defctription it has re- ceived In feveral accounts of China. The en- trance into the palace is by a icrong ftone arched way.. The range of builditigs fronting it is three (lories high, and much embellifhed with galleries^ gilding, and painting. The roof is covered with fhining tiles, of a yellow colour ; the walls are varioufly painted and decorated. A large body of foldiers guard the gate; and feveral mandarins of the firfl clafs are in conftant waiting. The Ambadador now fettled the order and dif- pofrtion of the tables for the different departments of the houfhold ; and every thing feemed to indi- cate a refidence of fome permanency at Ptkin. More prcfents were unpacked, confifting of plated goods, hard-ware, and cutlery ; and the whole vfz& equally divided between the Emperor and the Grand Choulaa. On the 5th, the Emperor vifited the palace of Ycumen-manyeumen, to infpeiSl the prefents which EMBASSY TO CHINA. ^5 which were lodged there ; and was plcafcd to or- der feveral ingots of filver to be diftribiited to every perfon attending. The Englilh artificers, who were the immediate objc6ls of his generofity, and had a complete view of him, defcribed his Ma- jefty as being about five feet ten inches high ; of a (lender form, but weH proportioned • and that his countenance prefented a regularity of features, free from the decrepitude of age. His deport- ment was attra6livcly affable; and the dignity of the prince was only difplayed in the fupcrior man^ ners of the man. He was habited in a robe of yellow fiik, and a cap of black velvet, furmounted with a red ball, and, adorned with a peacock's fea- ther. He wore filk boots, embroidered with gold, and a blue filk falli. The opinion his Majefly formed of the prcfents could only be colledled from their being generally received. Two camera obfouras were, however, returned, as being luited only to the amufement of children. Our interpreter, explained to the mandarins the nature and ufe of a variety of articles. Prefents were this day received from the Em- peror for their Britannic MajeRies. The Am- ballador and fuite had likewife their proportion. .At noon on the i6ih, the AmbaiTador ugain •went to vifit the Emp.eror; but on his anival at court 96 LORD MACARTN£\'s court he fainted away, and being conveyed home, continued indifpofed during the day. In the meanwhile, Sir George Staunton and Colonel Benfon dilhibuted to each of the foldiers and fer- vants, fome pieces of fdk, others of dongaree, (a Jcind of nankeen) and a junk of filver, of confider- able weight, as a prefent from his Imperial Ma- jefty. The optical, mechanical and mathematical in- flruments being j-emoved from the palace of Ycu- men-manyeumen, the gentlemen and mechanics were difmiiied from their attendance there. On a trial of the powers of fome of the articles, be- fore the mandarins, they failed in the cffc6ls afcribed to them, and others excited little furprize or admiration in the Chinefe literati, who viewed ihem. A report began to circulate, that we were foon to quit Pekin. It occafioned a confiderable fliare of fpeculation, though it obtained lefs credit than afterwards appeared to be due. This report, which at lirft met with only a faint belief in general, was confirmed by an order from the Araballador, to prepare for our departure on Wednefday. Our fr.rprize and concern may cafily be conceived. After a variety of fatigues, we confoled ourfelves that we fhould now have enjoyed fome repofe ; but all perfonal confidera- tions EMBASSY TO CHINA. 97 lions w€rc abforbed in public affairs, in which ihe humbleli individual felt an intereft. The grand were employed in threihing rice. The following day the banks of the river re- ^med the ufnal appearance; and long ranges of mountains rofe into the horizon. The 20th brought us to a large and beautiful town, where we were again to difembark. The fcenery here might have advantageoufly employed the warmeft pencil. The river formed a central objecl, on one fide was the town, with its appro- priate circumftanccs,. and a militiiry encampment m EMBASSY TO CHINA. II3 in front, with all its gaudy enfigns ; on the other fide lofty perpendicular hills bounded the view in the moft fublime ftile. Having difembarked, wc proceeded next day by land, and foon reached thecity of Chanfoiyeng, where the Ambalfador was received with due dif- tinilion. Leaving this, we pafTed another walled city and feveral villages; and arrived at the city of Yoofaim, early in the afternoon, where we drank refrefhments of tea at the palace of the mandarin ; and having flowed the baggage on board another fleet of junks provided for our accommodation, we all embarked, and were anxious to proceed on our voyage. On the morning of the 24th of November we found ourfelves before the city of Mammenoa. The river now winded away between enormous malTes of flone, without any continuity or con- nection.; exhibuing the appearance of fome vol- canic eruption. Some of thefe huge ftones had been excavated into dwellings; and every in- terftice between them was occupied by hortulane prOduJiions. This flupendous fcenery continued for feveral miles; it was grand, perhaps unique, jn itfelf ; and where It admitted of viev/s into the more diitant country, it produced a iiroft delight- ful pidure. We reached the city of Hoa-quoo in the after- I> 3 noon. 114 LORD macartney's noon, where, much to our fatisfa^ion, we found iargerjunks ready to receive us. The mandarin of the place politely fent a .variety of fruits and confe6libnary for the ufe of every junk. For two days the weather had been very rainy ; it now be^ came more moderate. The country through which we paded was rich and fertile; a few red rocks occafionally broke the level of the fcene. The fog was fo thick on the morning of tlie 2^th as to obfcure the country. About noon it difperfed-; and the eye ranged over a level extent ©f rice fields, interfedled w-ith v^las and gardens. Our provifions had for fome time been very in*- different; not from negle61, but the nature of the country. In proportion as^ we fared worfe our Chinefe junk-men fared better; they received not only our fuperfluity, but fometimes almofl the whole* The 27th prefcnted a novel fcene — a village entirely built of mudj with inhabitants as wretch- ed in appearance as their ha'mtations were mean^ For this fight we v/ere unable to account. The river had- now a-fiimied a formidable breadth ; and as the wind was high, the waves and furf refembled thofe of the fea. We pafled num- bers of fifhing-boats, which forved to vary the navigation of the ft ream.. The city of Tyaung-flii-fennan appeared^ in view EMEASSV TO CHINA. II5 Vitw on the 28th. We pafied it in the afternoon; and for extent and the advantages of lituation, it •iinqueftionably deferves to be reckoned one of the firft in China. Not lefs than a thou fand^ junks lay at anchor befors it. It is built near the con- flux of fcveral rivers, and enjoys a moft extenfiva commerce. The grand mandarin paid a vifit on board his Excellency's junk, and made a variety of prefents, in filk, porcelain and tea. The only novelty that prefented itfclf, in tha Gourfe of our voyage on the 29th, was a village built with blue bricks^ and covered with tiles oi the fame colour. Pagodas and the palaces of mandarins were now become familiar objedls. The following day we paifed a city lying amid beautiful meadows and orchards, about two miles diilance from the river. Beyond this the profpedl became as delightful as fancy can conceivci Mountains rofe into the horizon, forefts waved on the flopes, and flocks and herds covered the vales. The river was now- expanded to a great breadth; and as the wind blew freOi, tlie junks fometimea appeared in .danger of being overfet. At this time the thermometer had funk to 40 ; and the fields were covered with froft. It has been previoully remarked, that there are jio^ public cemeteries, except in- the vicinity of po«- piilous places.. Hence the country becomes a continued n6 continued burial-ground. Which ever way we turned our eyes, fome trophy of death appeared ; and the degree of embelliOiment it had received marked the rank of the deceafed. Indeed it is not unufual for the Chincfe to ere6l their funeral monuments in their lifetime ; and as the choice of fituation is free, many of them become pic- turefque objects. On the i{\ of December we failed by the town ©f Saunt-yo-tawn, where. /everal fuperb pagodas rofe above the furrounding groves. Numerous timber-yards occupied the banks of the river ; and a large quantity of timber was immerfed in the ftream, which, as we were told, was in a ftate of preparation for the building of junks, the princL*- pal bufmefs of the place. -<■ The cities of Loo Dichean, Morriun Dew, and' Chic-a-foo, which we now approached, all lie contiguous to each other. Art and Nature have united their efforts to encreafe the beauty of this charming vicinity. At a diftance we obferved Vaft columns of fmoke> which rofe,. as we were informed, from a porcelain manufactory. In the evening, we reached the city of Chinga- £00. Here illuminations, the firing of rockets and of artillery, took place in honour of the Am- baflador. We received alfo a prefent of fruit and confedlionary from the mandarin of the place. To EMBASSY TO CHINA.' Iiy To note every object which arreft^d and pleafed the eye of the traveller, would fatigue the reader without informing him. Every bend of the river opened a new profpe£l that gratified the fight, to which no defcripiion, however vivid, could do jr.ftice. The feafon ot the year was now the mod unpropitious for landfcape beauty; yet the charms of nature, intermixed with the veiligcs of art, im- parted fucceHIve impulfes of delight. On the 2d of December we palfcd the city of Fio'cho-jcunau, cmbo-fonicd in pluutations^ Fron^ its apparent population, and the number of junks employed in its commerce, it was evidently to be ranked in the fnft clafs of Chinefe towns. Next day we were gratified with the view oF fome beautiful ruins. The original dc.'Hnationof the edifice we could not certainly difcover; but from the remains Itill vifible, we concluded it muft have once been a work of no conimon mag- j^ificence. In this part of the empire, fituation feems to be duly appreciated. The villas of the* mandarins^ the pagodas, and even fome of the private dwel- lings, are creeled with a palpable regard to the circumllances of the place, and the beauty of the fcenery. We obferved numbers of fifhermen employed^ ui their vocation with rods and lines. Ln lakes- and llS lORD. macartney's Sind large rivers, the fame kind of bait is fre- quently ufed as at fea. Nets too are in very^ common ufe. In fonie places bamboo canes, . f^ipponing a curtain of ftrong gauze, are placed, acrofs the ftreams ; and then the fifh being allured^ to the fpot by baits, are caught in nets v.^iih greats fuccefs. On enquiry, we found that the rights of fifhery-,- as in Europe, are private properly. In ihofe ri- vers we navigated, a kind of whiting and trout ■were the moll plentifu?. Thefe are fold to the crews of the junks, and the demand. for them is- very great.. While on the fubje6l of fifhing, a mode pecu- liar to the Chinefe, of catching them by a Ipecies of birds, trained up for that purpofe, ihould not pafs without mnice. The fowls are called looau, and are faid to be indigenous here. They are about the fize of a goofe ; of a grey colour ; web-footed ; and furnifhed with a long flender bill, incurvated at the extremity. This bird builds among the reeds, or in- the hollows of cliffs, adjoining the lliores. When trained for filhing, to which na- ture gives them. an extraordinary degree of apti- tude and docility, a certaiuv number of them are taken out in each boat, and at a given fignal they dive, and bring up their prey with unerring cer- tainty, and with equal certainty depofit it in the boat EMBASSY TO CHINA. 11^ ■boat to which they refpedively belong, thoiigK hundreds may be mixed. Thcfe aftonifliing aquatic birds will foon fill a boat, Avhere fifh is plentiful; and it is pofnively affirmed, that when *one of them feizes a filh too large to manage fmgly, its companions join in affording afliifance. A ringpaifed round the neck, prevents them from fwallowing what they catch. Early in the afternoon we anchored before the ^city of Vang-on-chean ; where the AmbaiTador received a vifit from the mandarin. This place t)ccupies a confiderable fpace; on one fide it is bounded by the river, on the other by a range of high mountains. A fucceffion of towns and villages enlivened our voyage during the fucceeding day. The features of the countrj became craggy and elevated into hills ; but fertility, in every polTible fituation, ihewed the labour of diligent cultivation. The appearance of indigence is by no means common in China ; but this day we obferved a clufter of cottages meanly conftru6fcd of logs of wood, and indicating internal wretchednefs. We have fo frequently repeated the charms of the country through which we paflcd, that it is feared a continual enumeration of iimilar objeds may fail of affording entertainment. On the 5tii . tl\G 120 LORD macartney's tlie liver be-canie very fhoally, and we anchoredT before dark to avoid the dangers of fuch a navi- gation. This day we paiTed the city of Joo-jen- naii-, fituated at the bottom of a lofty mountain. Here we found that the river on which y,e had failed communicated wirh another of equal mag- nitude. The polition ot a city, at the conflux of two large rivers, readily points out its convenience for trade. Leaving this place-, the flrcam was divided into two ftreams by a beautiful iflet, in which the man- darin had an elegant feat, probably for his occa- fional retirement. In the evening, the city of Kaung-joo-foo pre- fcnted the mofl: brilliant nodurnal illumination we had hitherto feen; and this complimentary attention was heightened by a prefent of fruits, and confedionary from the mandarin. CHAP. EMBASSY TO CHINA. I2l CHAP. XIV, Chineje Metljod of watering Grounds — Jourfiey over Land to Naung-chin-oa — Re-emhark — Grand lU luminatlon on the Hills in honour of the Ambaf- fador, "T X TE have frequently had occafion to remaf?<; ' ' the improved ft ate of agriculture in this country. In our paiTage down the river on the 6th of December, we obferved a number of ma- chines, with which the Chinefe water their grounds. They confift of a wheel of bamboo, turned by a ftream, which throwing the water into large refervoirs, it is from thence diflributed by fluices into a thoufand channels. The beautiful village of Shai-boo, fituatcd on a bold elevation, above the river, was the principal objedl in the landfcape, till the attention was called away by the pagoda of Tau-ay ; the upper part of which being in ruins, gave it a more pic- turcfque and impreihve appearance, and well ac- corded with the chararl thp jnnlf K«^*-o well fecured fore and aft, is in a few moments hoifted, with all its contents, from one level to another. Perfons accuftomed to the bufinefs are ftationed at thefe places ; and fo certain and fecure is their operation, that it is fcarcely regarded as an impediment or hazard. The fame attention, we underftand, was paid to Captain Markintolh and his party, during their paiTage to Chufan, as to the embaffy itfelf. Without adverting to numerous erroneous ac- counts I40 LORD MACARTNEY S counts of Chinefe manners and cuftoms, with which every European defcription is replete, we fhall briefly ftate what can be afferted with truth. A marriage ceremony, during our flay at Ma- cao, attracted our attention: as it may poflibly appear a matter of curiofity to many perfons in this country, a ihort defcription of it is heae given. The bride was carried in a palanqjBn, preceded by mufic ; various enfigns, borne by the male relatives of the bridegroom and bride, were difplayed both in the front and rear of the procef- fion. The lady being efcorted to the houfe of her hufband, mirth and feftivity concluded the day. ■.. It has been an opinion univerfally propagated and received, that the women are rigidly confined in this country. Enough has been faid in the courfe of this work to prove how ill-grounded Nor is the idea of flavery being countenanced, or even tolerated here, lefs repugnant to truth. Certain clafTes of criminals are indeed puniflted with a fervitude of longer or fhorter duration,, in. proportion lu their offence: and fuch perfons ane. frequently hired out to. mafters, who thereby ex- onerate the public from the expence of maintain- ing them. But flavery by original purchafe, or inheritance, as is cuftomary in the Weft Indies, is here totally unknown. The benevolent fpirit EMBASSY TO CHINA. I4I of the government, and the mild manners of the natives, would revolt at the idea. Sir George Staunton had purchafed a black boy, named Benjamin, at Batavia. In the interior of China he wsls an objeft of no fmall curiofity, per- haps of pity, in proportion as flavery is abhorred: and even at Canton, I heard a merchant, who could exprefs himfclf in broken Englifli, inveigh againfl the inhumanity of the Britifh nation, in fuffering fuch a difgraceful traffic; and fo con- trary to the principles they profefs to believe. On obferving to him, that Parliament intended to abo- lifh it, he furprized me, by naming Mandarin JVillforce, as he called that benevolent and worthy charadler Mr. Wilberforce ; he enumerated his efforts in the caufe of human nature, and of the fuffering Africans ; and concluded^ Jojh no Uke fi faJhion\ meaning, ** God cannot approve of fuch a pradice." The labours of benevolence do not always obtain fuch an extenfive fame; but Mr. Wilberforce Is fure of a richer reward, from that God, who with equal eye beholds his univerfal creation, and who delights in feeing man the friend of man. Feftivals in China are not unfrequent: that which celebrates the commencement of the new year is the principal. This begins, among the Chinefe, on the fecond of our month of February ; and 142 LORD MACARTNEY*S and is obferved with the iitmon; feftivity and joy. What religious ceremonies accompany the cele- bration of the new year, we are not competent to determine. Ordinary holidays are obferved in this manner: Provifions are purchafed and drefled, according to ranky ai-^d fituation. Thefe viands are placed on the domeftic altar, before a fmall idol ; after a threefold obeifance to the deity, the repafl and three fmall cups of wine, fpirits, and vinegar, are carried to the front of the dwelling. The family then kneel, and pray with great fervency, beating their Heads againft the ground ; and on rifing^ throw the contents of the three cups on either iide. Small rolls of ^It paper are then fet on fire, and held over the meal. Afterwards fmall crackers are exploded over it ; the repafl is a fecond time placed before the idol ; obeifances are repeated ; and a focial dinner concludes the ceremony. According to ancient ufage, dramatic pieces are performed on the ifl of March, in the princi- pal ftreets of the diiferent towns throughout the empire, for the amufement of the lower clafles. This munificent a61; is at the expence of the Em- peror; and is fometimes repeated for a fucceflion of days. Of the efficacy of the Chinefe prefcriptions we had EMBASSY TO CHINA. I43 had u favourable inftance. One of Captain Mack- Jntolh's fervants, on our return from Jehol, had been attacked with fuch a violent dyfentery, that it was feared he could not proceed. A Chinefe phyfician was called in ; the interpreter explained his cafe; and a medicine was ordered, whicli fpeedily removed the complaint. Few difeafes, however, feem to prevail in China. The caxee is the only coin fufFered to be cur- rent in China. It is made of a white metal, about the fize of a farthing, and has a fquare hole in the centre for the purpofe of being ftrung into candereens and maces, two imaginary names, con- fifting of a certain number of caxees. Every pro- vince i.n China has its particular caxee; and we found the rate of exchange vary accordingly. In Pekin, a Spanifli dollar produceti near 600 caxee ; in Hoang-tchew, upwards of 700. We fhall conclude this work with an anecdote of the prefent Emperor of China ; one of the moft beneficent and enlightened monarchs that ever fwayed a fceptre. A merchant of Nankin had, with great reputa- tion, acquired fuch a fortune as awakened the ra- pacity of the Viceroy of that province. To avoid the danger that menaced him, he divided his for- tune among his children, and was content to look up 144 LORD MACARTNEY S Up to them for fupport. Injuftice, entrenched behind power, is not eafily baffled; the fons of the merchant^ jwere fent to the army; the property was confifcated, under pretence that it had been too rapidly accumulated ; and the merchant in vain folicited redrefs from this vile reprefentative of a beneficent fovereign. Defpair gave refolution to a man, confcious-of his own integrity. The merchant was deter- mined to lay his complaints at the foot of the throne. He begged his way to Pekin ; and had the good fortune to be able to prefent a llatement of his oppreflive grievances to the Emperor bim- fclf. The venerable monarch perufed the^con^ tents: the Viceroy of Nankin happened to be in attendance: he was charged w^ith l^e^crime; his confufion betrayed his guilt; and punilhment be- carne indifpenfible. The Emperor, after expa- tiating on the magnitude of the crime, com- manded his head to be brought on the point of a fabre. The poor merchant was ftruck dumb wiih fear and wonder ; when the Emperor relieved him by the following addrefs: ** Contemplate this aweful example before your eyes ; and as I ap- point you Viceroy of the province of Nankin, let the fate of your predecelfor teach you juflice and moderation." FINIS. \ & y^^^-m! '*r* ■m^