DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/dublinwhatstobes01 hodg DE LA R ^'5 ' Slalioiuri} anb IN ENDLESS VARIETY AT ' ^ M. & S. EATON’S, 49 DAME STREET. AND 95 GRAFTON STREET. DUBLIN. TOURISTS’ EXPANDING WRITING CASES. De La Rue’s Epitome Writing Cases, Fitted icith Cutlery, a speciality for Travellers. Photographic Albums, with Patent Joints, WILL LAST FOR YEARS. Parses, Pocket Books, Memorandum Books, Letter and Note Cases, Travelling Ink Bottles, Playing Cards, Bezique, Go-Bang, dtc. THE LARGEST ASSORTMENT IN DUBLIN OF Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Hand Bags. Ladies' Hand Bags, London made, with good Lock, 5s., 7s. 6d., 10s. 6(3.. to 30s. Gentlemen’s Cow Hide Hand Bags, 8s. 6d., 9s. 6d.. 10s. 6d. Guide Books, and Views of Irish Scenery in every variety. Visiting Cards Beautifully Printed. 49 DAME STREET, AND 95 GRAFTON STREET. DUBLIN. *A ADVERTISEMENTS. Books for loorists in Ireland, PUBLISHED OR SOLD BY HODGES, FIGGIS, AND CO., Sole Agents in Ireland for the sale of Ordnance Survey Maps, and all Sovernment Publications. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK for TRAVELLERS in IRELAND. With Maps. Price los. BADDELEY’S IRELAND-I. NORTHERN COUNTIES, including Dublin and Neighbourhood. Seventeen Maps and Plans. Price 4s. BLACK’S GUIDE TO IRELAND. With Maps, &c. Price Ss. Also in Four Parts, is. 6d. each, cloth, or paper is. A DAY AT HOWTH ; OR, A GUIDE TO ITS SCENERY AND ANTIQUITIES. By J. IIuband Smith, M.R.I.A. Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings. Price 6d. THE FLORA OF FIOWTFI. With Map and Introduction on the Geology and other features of the Promontory. By H. C. Hart, B.A., F.L.S. Crown 8vo cloth. Price 3s. 6d. GUIDE TO BRAY AND ITS VICINITY. Illustrated. With a Map of Co. Wicklow. Price 6d. HANDBOOK TO LISDOONVARNA AND ITS VICINITY. With Engravings. Price is. STANFORD’S TRAVELLING MAP OF IRELAND, with Roads and Railways marked. Coloured, in case. Price I2s. 6d. The Same, Geologically coloured. Price 30s. KEITH JOHNSTON’S MAP OF IRELAND, from the Royal Atlas. In case. Price 4s. 6d. MAP OF DUBLIN AND ENVIRONS. Two Maps. In case. Price IS. 6d. ORDNANCE COUNTY INDEX MAPS TO THE SIX- INCH SURVEY OF IRELAND, 2s. 6d. each. Townland Survey Sheets, 2s. 6d. each. One-inch Scale Maps, is. each. Geological Sheets, 3s. each. Admiralty Charts, Is. to 7s. 6d. each. 104 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN. ADVERTISEMENTS. TTTnD*V'5C? TT/^trirjnr^T CA LJ JtrL X XXvjy X X^XiXi| COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN. Sdcorqrqodktioii. CHARGES MOST MODERATE. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Bank of Ireland, Castle, Theatres, and Railways. Ladies' Coffee-Room and Drawing-Room. TABLE D’HOTE DAILY at 2 and 6.30 o’clock. Telegraphic Address: JURY, DUBLIN. ADVERTISEMENTS. IN I R S . D A S H P E E , (Court Dressmaker), Has the honour to announce that she is fully prepared with a Choice » Assortment of the Latest Novelties in ^rtss liTafcrial, dancg Braperjr, ®ubErtlolljiag, anb Cljilbrcn’s i)utfitling. 15 LEINSTER STREET, Three Doors from Kildare St, Clithj Late of 28 UPPER BAGGOT STREET, DUBLIN. Charming situation, overlooking Stephen’s Green Park. MOST CENTRAL POSITION. MODERATE CHARGES. Shelbourwe Hotel, DUBLIN. Telegraph Office and Telephone In Hotel. HYDRAULIC PASSENGER ELEVATOR. ^AMES ROONEY, ^otiacconisit, Importer of Havanna Cigars, Foreign & Fanoy Snuffs, 17 SUFFOLK STREET, DUBLIN. (One Door from Grafton Street.) THE ORIGINAL IRISH LACE DEPOT, 76 GRAFTON ST., DUBLIN. Tlie only Establishment that has a regular supply of ALL the VARIETIES OF IRISH LACE. BEN LINDSEY, Proprietor and, Manufacturer. Wholesale, Retail, and Exportation. DUBLIN: ™’S TO BE SEEN, AND HOW TO SEE IT WITH lEycureione TO THE COUNTRY AND SUBURBS, VICEREGAL LODGE. NEW AND REVISED EDITION. DUBLIN ; lODGES, FIGGIS, & CO., BOOKSELLERS AND PUBLISHERS TO 1888. U VL W •* r.: v,v;r n: f .a. n \'\'' i 'I" > ' O' i’ ...f,, I , ,., ... . , *r ■ .V ' ' iV** ‘ . '.■• . 1 y y.x tiB3 f-l ^ 2)^ii CONTENTS. PAGE Railways and Tramways.—Newspapers . . 8 Preliminary Information. —Theatres—Commercial Buildings—Mansion-house—Corn Exchange—Hospi¬ tals—^Protestant Churches—Roman Catholic Churches —Presbyterian and other Places of Worship—Ceme¬ teries— Botanic Gardens — Hotels— Billiard-rooms— Baths.9 WHAT’S TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. The Start—Holyhead to Kingstown . -31 The City.36 F IRST Tou R— Sack ville-street—Nelson’s Pillar — Sir John Gray’s Monument—The O’Connell Monument—The Post Office— Earl-street — Marlborough-street—The Buildings of the Commissioners of National Educa¬ tion—The Metropolitan Roman Catholic Cathedral— Sackville-street—The Rotunda and Lying-in Hospital —Denmark-street—St. George’s Church—Mountjoy- square—Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier —Mountjoy Prison—The King’s Inns—Newgate—St. Michan’s Church—Smithfield—The Four Courts . 39 6 CONTENTS. Second Tour —The Royal Hibernian Academy House— Christian Union Buildings—The Union Chapel—The Custom House—Terminus of the Great Northern Railway—The North Wall and Lighthouse . . 6r Third Tour —Westmoreland-street—The Bank of Ire¬ land—College-street—Statues of William III., Moore, Grattan, Goldsmith, and Burke—Trinity College— Dublin Castle—The City Hall—Christ Church Cathe¬ dral—Strongbow’s Monument—St. Patrick’s Cathedral ^—Stephen’s Green—Aungier-street—Moore’s Birth¬ place—The Royal College of Surgeons—The Royal College of Science—The Royal University—Alexan¬ dra College.. 68 Fourth Tour —St. Patrick’s Well-Royal Dublin So¬ ciety—Dargan’s Statue—Prince Consort Memorial— Royal Irish Academy—National Gallery and Museum —Duke of Wellington’s Birth-place .... 105 The Country and Suburbs. Excursion the First. —The Phcenix Park—Terminus of Great Southern and Western Railway—Royal Hos¬ pital at Kilmainham—Bully’s Acre—Royal Military Infirmary—The Wellington Testimonial—The People’s Garden—Zoological Gardens—The Viceregal Lodge— Scene of the Park Murders—Phoenix Column—The Fifteen Acres—The Magazine—Hibernian Soldiers’ School — Mountjoy Barrack — Strawberry Beds— Chapelizod.116 Excursion the Second. —The Hill of Howth—Howth Castle—Anecdote of Grana Uile—Abbey of Howth— Howth Harbour—Ireland’s Eye—The Bailey Rock— St. Fantin’s—Cromlech—Castle of Malahide—Abbey of Malahide—Round TowerofSwords—St. Doulough’s Church and Well.128 CONTENTS. 7 Excursion the Third.—C ounty of Wicklow—Route through Rathmines—Ranelagh—Miltown, Dundrum —The Three Rock Mountain—Kilgobbin Castle and Church — Golden Ball — Kilternan Church — The “ Giant’s Grave ”—The Scalp—Sugarloaf Mountains— Town of Bray—Bray Head—Shankill—Enniskerry— I’owerscourt—Tinnahinch—Charleville — Powerscourt Waterfall — Round wood—Vartry Waterworks—Glan- delagh—Round Tower—St. Kevin’s Kitchen—The Seven Churches—St. Kevin’s Bed—Poulanass Water¬ fall — The Dargle—St. Valerie — Shanganagh—Cabin- teely — Killiney — Obelisk — Dalkey—and home by Kingstown.142 Excursion the Fourth.—M aynooth—Carton — Leix- lip—The Salmon Leap—Newbridge — Castletown— Saint Wolstan’s — Lucan.159 Excursion the Fifth.—D rogheda : Gates of—Mag¬ dalen Steeple—The Boyne—The Obelisk—The Battle —Dowth Tumulus — Netterville Charity—Newgrange —Slane Castle and Abbey—Slane Park — Monaster- boice.168 A Day at Kingstown. — Kingstown—The Railway Station—Salt Hill—Monkstown Church—The Har¬ bour—Town Hall—Bullock—Dalkey—The Island— Killiney—The Castle—Hotels—Churches . .176 RAILWAYS AND TRAMWAYS. Authentic and Official Information regarding Railway Time Tables, Country Conveyances, Omnibuses, and Dublin Cab and Car Fares, can be obtained from the Dublin Railway Guides, published on the first of each month, price 3d.; a smaller Guide is also published, price id. Tramway Cars start from Nelson’s Pillar every few minutes, for Rathmines, Rathgar, and Terenure ; for Irishtown and Sandymount; for Glasnevin ; for the Zoological Gardens ; for Doimybrook ; for Palmerston Park ; for Sandford and Clon- skeagh ; for Harold’s Cross and Mount Jerome; and for Clon- tarf and Dollymount. From Lower Abbey Street, Tramway Cars start for Merrion, Booterstown, and Blackrock ; lines run thence to Kingstown and to Dalkey ; from the Bank of Ire¬ land for Inchicore, and for Drumcondra. From Terenure there is a Tramway line to Rathfarnham ; also from Kings- bridge Terminus to Carlisle Bridge and Westland Row, and from Westland Row to Harcourt Street Terminus. Steam Tramway lines (narrow gauge) extend from Terenure to Blessington, and from Kingsbridge to Lucan. NEWSPAPERS. Daily Express (Daily), Conservative. Irish Times (Daily and Weekly), do. Mail (Morning and Evening), do. Freeman's Joitmial (Daily and Weekly), Nationalist. Telegrhph (Evening), do. Warder (Weekly), Conservative. Union ,, do. Nation ,, Nationalist. United Ireland, ,, do. And a number of Weekly Papers, chiefly devoted to the purposes of certain professions or trades. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. Theatres — Commercial Buildings — Mansion-house — Corn Exchange — Clubs — Hospitals — Protestant Churches— Roman Catholic Churches—Presbyterian and other Places of Worship—Cemeteries—Botanic Gardens—Hotels—Bil liard-rooms—Baths. THEATRES. The Gaiety Theatre, in South King-street, is now the principal place of public entertainment in Dublin; it is a handsome and most commodious building, fitted up with great taste, and adapted in every way for the comfort and recreation of the public. Every kind of high-class drama, opera, and burlesque is presented at this theatre, and there is a complete change of programme and performers nearly every week. The Queen’s Royal Theatre— the oldest in Ireland, and the dramatic cradle of many great actors—is in Great Brunswick-street, South. It is small and neat, and well adapted for the production of melodrama and burlesque. The performances, as a rule, are not of so ambitious an order as those at the Gaiety Theatre. B 10 THEATRES, ETC. The Theatre Royal was destroyed by fire on the 9th of February, 1880, and has been replaced by a noble building, entitled the Leinster Hall, which was opened on November 2nd, 1886, and is capable of accommodating over 4,000 persons. It is sometimes fitted up as a theatre for Opera, or even for Comedy; but as a rule it is used for con¬ certs, conversaziones, bazaars, and public meetings of all kinds. The Grafton Theatre of Varieties, in South Anne-street, is a high-class music hall, where a light and enjoyable entertainment is presented on Satur¬ day evenings only. The programme is .varied every week. The Star Music Hall, in Crampton-court, near Dublin Castle, is a spacious and popular place of entertainment. Acrobatic performances usually form an item in the programme. The Exhibition Building (now occupied by the Royal University of Ireland) contains a concert-hall, capable of seating an audience of three thousand. This room is sometimes lent to musical societies for concert purposes, especially if the music selected be such as to require an organ accompaniment. The Rotundo, situated in Upper Sackville-street, has five concert-rooms of various sizes, and in these from time to time negro minstrel entertainments are given, dioramas are exhibited, and conjurors COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS, ETC. II perform. There is also a large circus building at¬ tached, where the Charles Hengler troupe has gene¬ rally appeared for about two months or more each summer. The Antient Concert Rooms, two in number, are in Great Brunswick-street, and are used for such meetings and entertainments as are not expected to attract a very large number of persons. The rooms accommodate about fifteen hundred and five hundred respectively. THE COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS are situate at the north side of Dame-street. They date from the year 1798, when the merchants of Dublin erected them, having found fault with the accommodation which the Royal Exchange (now the City Hall) afforded for their meetings. These buildings include an Assurance Office, offices for Lloyd’s Underwriters, and Restaurant (the Bodega, with dining-room attached), connected by a large Hall. The Stock Exchange was held here until some five years ago, when a new building, erected specially for the purpose, in Anglesea-street close by, was opened. THE MANSION-HOUSE in Dawson-street is the residence of the Lord Mayor Among the chief apartments is the “ Round Room,’> 12 CLUBS. built on the occasion of the visit of King George IV, in 1821. There are some good portraits of dis¬ tinguished individuals in the ball-room, oak-room, and other apartments. On the grounds attached to the house is an equestrian statue of George I., which at one time stood on Grattan-bridge, then known as Essex-bridge. THE CORN EXCHANGE is situated on Burgh-quay. In a portion of this building the Catholic Association used to assemble in the days of O’Connell. Not many doors removed from it, on the same quay, is Conciliation Hall, where the “ Liberator ” presided and harangued in later years. It is now devoted to mercantile pur¬ poses. CLUBS. The United Service, Stephen’s Green (or. Reform), University, Friendly Brothers’ and Cavendish Clubs, in St. Stephen’s-green; the Kildare-street Club ; Freemasons’ Hall, in Molesworth-street; Leinster and Constitutional Clubs, in Leinster-street; AtheNjCUM, City and County Conservative, and Dawson-street Clubs, in Dawson-street; Agricultural, and Sackville Street, and Catholic Commercial Clubs, in Sackville-street; Law Club, in Suffolk- street; two Workingmen’s Clubs in York-street, HOSPITALS. 13 one strictly Conservative ; the National Club, in Rutland-square, and numerous musical, athletic, cycling, chess, artistic, and other Clubs; Royal St. George, Royal Irish, Absolute, and Eastern Yacht Clubs, Kingstown. At Ringsend are the premises of the following Rowing Clubs:— Univer¬ sity Rowing, University Boat, Neptune, Pem¬ broke, Dolphin, Tyro, and Commercial. HOSPITALS. The figures in parentheses denote approximately the number of beds. Hospital of Sir Patrick Dun, M.D. (ioo). Grand Canal-street, was erected in pursuance of the will of that eminent physician in 1810. Persons in moderate circumstances, when recommended by a governor, are admitted to private wards in this hos¬ pital on payment of one guinea a-week. Doctor Steevens’ Hospital (240), James’s- street, was founded in 1720. Meath Hospital and County of Dublin In¬ firmary (108), in Long-lane, was founded for the relief of the rural poor, and supplies medicine and advice annually to about 10,000 outside poor. Mercer’s Hospital (80), William-street, was erected in 1734 by Mrs. Mary Mercer, and has been recently enlarged to about twice its original size. 14 HOSPITALS. The Adelaide Hospital (125), in Peter-street, supported solely by voluntary contributions, was opened in the year 1857, and extended to more than double its original size in 1879. The wards of the hospital proper are occupied by Protestant patients only, but the adjoining Dispensaries are free to all poor persons. There is attached to the hospital a Training Establishment for Nurses. St. Vincent’s Hospital (160), St. Stephen’s- green, was opened in the year 1834 by the Sisters of Charity. Besides the beds in the hospital, there are 24 in the sanatorium at Blackrock for convalescent patients. The Mater Misericordi^ Hospital (250), in Eccles-street, established in 1861, is the largest hos¬ pital in Dublin. The City of Dublin Hospital (ioo), Upper Baggot-street, was established in 1832. The National Children’s Hospital (50), in Harcourt-street, is associated with the Dublin Red Cross Sisters’ House, where ladies are trained to become nurses. The Charitable Infirmary (120), in Jervis-street, has been completely rebuilt, at a cost of about ;^8o,ooo, and was re-opened in 1886. The roof is flat, and is furnished with growing plants and seats for such patients as are capable of out-door exercise. HOSPITALS. 15 The view of Dublin from this position is unequalled, the building being of great height. Besides the Rotunda Lying-in Hospital, elsewhere noticed, there is a similar institution in the Coombe. The Fever Hospitals are the Cork-street, and the Hardwicke in North Brunswick-street. The Rich¬ mond Surgical Hospital is in North Brunswick-street, the Whitworth (Government) Hospital close by, and a second hospital of the same name at Drumcon- dra ; the Hospital for Incurables, on Donnybrook- road, and the Old Men’s Asylum, Leeson-park. There is an Ophthalmic Hospital (St. Mark’s) in Lincoln-place, the National Eye and Ear Infirmary, in Molesworth-street, and an Orthopaedic Hospital, “ the Dublin,” in South Brunswick-street. The Westmoreland Lock Hospital is in Townsend-street, and the Maison de Sante, after the plan of one in Paris, is in Charlemont-street. Here persons of respec¬ tability can have accommodation and professional attendance for a small weekly payment. There is a somewhat similar establishment in Sandymount- avenue. Dispensaries are in every quarter of the city. There are two Institutions for the Deaf and Dumb, namely, the Catholic Institution at Cabra, and the Claremont, near Glasnevin. Of the Lunatic Asylums, the oldest (St. Patrick’s) was founded in 1745, pursuant to the will of the celebrated Dean Swift, who bequeathed property for its foundation. CHURCHES. i6 The Richmond, in North Brunswick-street, is the County Lunatic Asylum for Dublin, Louth, and Wicklow. The Blue-Coat School, or King’s Hospital, is an institution, established in 1670, for the main¬ tenance and education of the sons of the poorer class of freemen. The present noble building was erected on its site in 1773, and can accommodate nearly 200 boys. The Royal Hospital, for old soldiers, will be noticed in the first country excur¬ sion. PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCHES. The hours of Divine Service on Sundays are 11.30 a.m. and 7 p.M. Occasional celebrations of the Holy Communion take place at 8 a.m. St. Andrew’s, in St. Andrew-street, which re¬ placed the “ Round Church,” destroyed by fire on 8th January, i860, is a building in the ornamental Gothic style. The Incumbent is the Rev. Canon Marrable, D.D. St. Ann’s, Dawson-street ; Very Rev. Hercules H. Dickinson, D.D., Dean of the Chapel Royal. St. Audoen’s, Audoen’s Arch, High-street; Rev. Canon Deeper, D.D. St. Barnabas’, North Lotts; Rev. James S. Fletcher. St. Bartholomew’s, Elgin-road; Rev. Canon R. T. Smith, D.D. (Choral Services.) CHURCHES. 17 St. C.\therine’s, Thomas-street; Rev. A. L. Elliott. Christ Church, Leeson-park, and Molyneux Asylum (for Blind Females) ; Chaplain, Rev. Canon Maurice Neligan, D.D. St. George’s, Hardwicke-place’; Rev. T. L. Scott. St. James’, James’s-street; Rev. T. Tomlinson. St. Luke’s and St. Nicholas Without, Coombe ; Rev. J. D. Smylie. St. Mark’s, Great Brunswick-street; Rev. A. S. Fuller, D.D. St. Mary’s, Mary-street; Rev. Canon James H. Monahan, D.D. St. Michan’s, Church-street; Rev. T. Long. St. Paul’s, North King-street; Rev. Gilbert Mahaffy. St. Peter’s, Aungier-street ; Rev. Canon Morgan W. Jellett, LL.D. St. Stephen’s, Upper Mount-street; Rev. Canon J. H. Walsh, D.D. St. Thomas’s, Marlborough-street; Rev. Freeman W. Gason. St. Werburgh’s, Werburgh-street; Rev. S. C. Hughes, LL.D. St. Matthias’, Upper Hatch-street and Adelaide- road ; Rev. Canon F. R. Wynne. Trinity Church, Lower Gardiner-street; Rev. J. Duncan Craig, D.D. i8 CHURCHES. The Chapel Royal, Lower Castle Yard; Dean, Very Rev. Hercules H. Dickinson, D.D.; Choral Service, 11.30 a.m. The College Chapel, Trinity College ; Provost, Rev. George Salmon, D.D., D.C.L., F.R.S. ; Dean, Rev. Thomas Stack, a Senior Fellow of the Col¬ lege ; Choral Service, during term, 10 a.m. Albert Chapel, Peter-street; Rev. Edmond Robinson. Grangegorman, Phibsborough; Rev. Canon Henry Hogan, B.D. (Choral Services.) Bethesda, Dorset-street; Chaplain, Rev. C. H. H. Wright, D.D. St. Kevin’s, South Circular-road; Rev. Phineas Hunt. Free Church, Great Charles-street; Chaplain, Rev. Ernest Fischer. Episcopal Chapel, Upper Baggot-street; Chap¬ lain, Rev. Ambrose W. Leet, D.D. Harold’s Cross Episcopal Church ; Rev. W. B. Askin. Swift’s Alley ; Chaplain, Rev. Thomas C. Skipton. Mariners’Chapel, Forbes-street; Chaplain, Rev. Andrew Campbell, D.D. ; service, ii a.m., and 4 p.m. Magdalene Asylum, Lower Leeson-street; Rev. Canon F. F. Carmichael, LL.D. CHURCHES. 19 Dublin Female Penitentiary (St. Augustine’s Church), Berkeley-road; Chaplain, Rev. N. W. Carre. Chapel of Lying-in Hospital (Rotunda, Upper Sackville-street); Chaplain, Rev. John Atkyns Davis, B.D. The Cathedrals are noticed in another chapter. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES. The chief of these are:— St. Andrew’s, Westland-row; St. Audoen’s, High-street; Augustinian Friary, Thomas-street; Carmelites, Aungier-st.; St. Catherine’s, Meath- street; St. James’, St. James’s-street ; St. Kevin’s, Harrington-street; St. Mary’s Cathedral Church OF the Conception, Marlborough-street; St. Lau¬ rence O’Toole’s, Sheriff-street; SS. MicHAEL .and John, Exchange-street; St. Michan’s, North Anne- street; St. Nicholas’s, Francis-street; St. Paul’s, Arran-quay ; St. Saviour’s, Lower Dominick-street. Service every half hour till noon. PRESBYTERIAN CHURCHES Are in Adelaide-road, Gloucester-street, Rutland- square. Lower Abbey-street, Upper Ormond-quay; Donore, South Circular-road, and Rathgar. Ser¬ vices at 12 noon and 7 p.m. 20 CEMETERIES. OTHER PLACES OF WORSHIP. The principal Methodist Churches are in St. Stephen’s-green, S., Lower Abbey-street, and South Great George’s-street. The Independent Congregational Churches are in York-street and King’s Inns-street. The Unitarian is in St. Stephen’s-green, W. The Society of Friends meet in Eustace-street. The Plymouth Brethren’s place of meeting is in Westland-row •, and the Open Brethren assemble in the Merrion Hall, close to Westland-row. The Baptist Chapels are[.in Lower Abbey-street and Harcourt-street. The Jewish Synagogue is in St. Mary’s-abbey. THE CEMETERIES. Dublin has two of those suburban cemeteries with which every great city has become furnished since intramural interment became illegal. Prospect Cemetery, Glasnevin, is at the north¬ eastern outlet of Dublin, and may conveniently be reached by tramway-car from Nelson’s Pillar. It is situated not far from the little river Tolka, once the scene of frequent strife between contending Irish, Danes, and Normans, and whose wooded banks were, in later and more peaceful days, the chosen haunt of Swift and Addison, of Parnell and Tickell, Dermody and Sheridan, and now appropriately afford a resting-place to the bones of Curran and O’Connell. CEMETERIES. 21 The Cemetery covers a space of about fifty acres. The present principal entrance is from the Finglas road. Not far from the eastern extremity is a hand¬ some monument to Mr. Ruthven, once O’Connell’s colleague in Parliament for the representation of the city of Dublin. Turning a few paces to the right, we pause before the tomb of Curran. The tomb is in the form of a sarcophagus, of the Doric order of architecture, richly sculptured. It is erected so as THE TOMlt OF CURRAN. to appear upon a tumulus, which gives it excellent effect. The blocks of granite, of which the tomb has been formed, are perhaps the largest made use of in Ireland, each weighing from four to five tons. The dimensions are as follow :—The plinth, ii feet 2^ inches, by 5 feet inches; the dado, 8 feet 11 22 CEMETERIES. inches by 3 feet 8^ inches; height, 8 feet 2 inches. The points between the blocks have been so managed as to be imperceptible, and the tomb thus appears one entire mass of granite. This stone has been only lately applied in Ireland to sepulchral uses. Twenty years had elapsed ere Ireland reclaimed the bones of her distinguished orator and patriot, and raised over them this memento. Passing by a handsome chapel, successive sign¬ posts indicate the path to the tomb of O’Connell. The centre of a circle of tombs and cypresses, a square block, surmounted by a moulding, upholds a miniature pyramid, and rises from a mound of green turf, which, undulating on its second ascent into a circular bank, is broken into shrubberies and flower- plots. The entire is again surrounded by a green sward. Over this mausoleum of O’Connell (executed from the design of Dr. Petrie, the distinguished antiquary and artist), has been erected a round tower, of the earliest Christian architecture, and of the same pro¬ portions as the ancient round towers of Ireland. The entire is composed of dressed granite. Descending some steps in front, the visitor may approach the gate of the vault underneath, through which can be seen the coffin of the “ Liberator,” covered with crimson velvet. Tom Steele, the fidus Achates of the great Agitator, sleeps in a vault close BOTANIC GARDENS. 23 by him in furtherance of whose views he had sacri¬ ficed a handsome fortune, and to whom he had been a devoted henchman all through life. Mount Jerome Cemetery, in an opposite suburbs of the city, close to the ancient village of Harold’s Cross, possesses more natural beauty, and, though of later date, has perhaps a greater number of handsome monuments. It is easily accessible by means of a tramway-car from the Bank of Ireland. Here, having above them a well-executed full-length statue, lie the remains of Thomas Davis, the literary and political leader of “Young Ireland.” The statue is one of the most artistic and finely-chiselled monu¬ ments executed by the Irish sculptor, the late John Hogan. BOTANIC GARDENS. Close by the Glasnevin Cemetery, on the same classic banks of the d’olka, are the Botanic Gardens, in their natural and acquired beauty, perhaps the most perfect Eden in the neighbourhood of Dublin. There are over forty acres of ground, beautifully undulating, shaded with trees and adorned with shrubs and flowers—laved by the limpid waters of the Tolka, and enriched with magnificent conser¬ vatories of the rarest exotics. The demesne was once in the possession of Tickell, the poet, who planted several of the trees ; and in the house on the ground, he passed with Addison many congenial 24 BOTANIC GARDENS. hours, when the latter was secretary to the Earl of Sutherland, Viceroy in 1714. At Delville, close by, the house of Swift’s friend, Dr. Delany, the unhappy but celebrated Stella resided for some time. The ground of the gardens was purchased in 1795 for its present purpose by the Royal Dublin Society, with a grant from Parliament. Subsequent grants were likewise obtained for the support of the gardens, which, in October, 1877, became a branch of the Science and Art Museum under Government con¬ trol. The Botanic Gardens have five divisions—i. The Conservatory Department, for exotics. 2. Hardy herbaceous plants, including the compartments for the British and Irish species, the medicinal species, and the general collection. 3. The tree and shrub divisions. 4. Culinary and agricultural plants ; and 5. The pleasure grounds. One of the splendid ranges of conservatories cost upwards of ;^5,ooo. The gardens are remarkable for fine collections of Cape heaths {Erica), orchids, tree ferns, and insec¬ tivorous plants, including a unique collection of sar- racenias, droseras, and nepenthes, and a plant of Darlingtonia calif arnica that has a European reputa¬ tion. Amongst orchids, the culture of the “ Flower of the Gods ” {Disa grandijlord) is here a complete success. The tree fern collection contains good specimens of the following scarce plants :—Alsophila BOTANIC GARDENS. 25 Moorei, Dicksoniafibrosa, Dicksonia Youngii, Cyathea dealbata, Cyathea Smithii, Cyathea Btirkei, etc. There are also in the gardens some very fine palms, such as date palm, cocoa-nut palm, fan palm, sugar palm, oil palm, etc. In the stove, the collection of economic plants, foreign fruits, and medicinal plants is thoroughly representative. The gardens are open from 10 a.m. till 6 p.m. on week-days,—the conser¬ vatories from 11 a.m. till 5 p.m. On Sundays, both gardens and conservatories are open from 2 p.m. till sundown in winter, and 7 p.m. in summer. On the outside grounds, the collections of hardy herbaceous plants and alpines are very complete. There is also a fine collection of plants representing the pine family. Attached to the gardens are Schools for Garden¬ ing, in which numbers of young men have been educated. At the southern side of Dublin, near Ball’s-bridge, are the College Botanical Gardens, containing about six acres, well laid out, but not possessing the extraordinary attractions of those at Glasnevin. c 26 HOTELS. THE PRINCIPAL HOTELS. The Shelbourne, the leading Hotel in Ireland, is a noble building, beautifully situated, and most comfortable in all its appointments. It com¬ mands a splendid view of St. Stephen’s Green. Russell’s Temperance is at the opposite side of the same park. The Gresham, in Upper Sackville-street, is very commodious, and has of late years been fitted up in first-class style. The Edinburgh Temperance is nearly opposite. Aitken’s Temperance is in Westmoreland-street. The Wicklow is close to Grafton-street. Morrisson’s, in Dawson-street, an old-established first-class Establishment, very convenient for Visitors. Its northern windows command a good view of the College Park. The Hibernian, in Dawson-street, and The Imperial and The Prince of Wales’, in Lower Sackville-street, particularly adapted for Gentlemen, are most comfortable Hotels. The Grosvenor, close to Westland-row Terminus, convenient for persons travelling to and from England by the Mail Steamers, via Kingstown. Maple’s, in Kildare-street, an aristocratic Family Hotel. HOTELS—BILLIARD ROOMS. 27 Tarpey’s, in Nassau-street, overlooking the College Park, a high-class Family Hotel. Jury’s, in College-green, the most central Hotel in Dublin, well suited to commercial and other gentlemen. Macken’s, in Uawson-street, old-established and convenient. The North-Western, at the North Wall Terminus of the Railway Company whose name it bears. The Central, in Exchequer-street, facing the South City Markets. There are billiard-rooms in the Shelbourne, the Gresham, the Wicklow, the Prince of Wales’, Jury’s, and the Central. The other principal BILLIARD-ROOMS (The figures in brackets denote the number of tables) are Dawson-lane (3); the Adelphi, in South Anne- street (10), kept by Fenton Fitzpatrick, Champion of Ireland ; Kapp’s (i) and Hayes’s (3), in Grafton- street; Hanbury’s (5), in Nassau-place; O’Hara’s (4), in Fleet-street; and Corless’s (2), at the Bur¬ lington Restaurant, in St. Andrew-street. RESTAURANTS. Dublin is exceptionally well supplied with dining and luncheon rooms. The licensing laws, how¬ ever, do not admit of these being kept open as 28 RESTAURANTS. supper rooras later than ii p.m. on week-days, and 7 p.m. on Sundays. The principal Restaurants are the following ; in the first seven of them oysters, lobsters, &c., as in season,, are a speciality. The Bodega, Commercial Buildings, Dame-street. Wines excellent, and moderate in price. The Burlington (Corless’s), Church-lane, off College-green. A coffee-room for ladies. High- class music is performed by the “ Orchestrion ” at intervals. The Bailey, Duke-street, off Grafton-street, is open on Sundays, 2 to 7. The Star and Garter, D’Olier-street, near O’Connell Bridge, available on Sundays. The Red Bank (or “ Burton Bindon’s ”), also in D’Olier-street. The Dolphin, Essex-street, close to Grattan Bridge. Hynes’s, in Dame-street, close to Dublin Castle and the City Hall. The Tavistock, in Hawkins-street and D’Olier- street, convenient for visitors to the Leinster Hall. Available on Sundays. The Ship, Lower Abbey-street, close to Sackville- street, opens on Sundays. Franklin’s, in College-green. The following Restaurants are specially recom¬ mended when the lighter kinds of refreshment are PHOTOGRAPHERS. 29 required, and when there are ladies to be catered for :— Mitchell’s, 10 Grafton-street. Byrne’s, 29 Nassau-street. Thomson’s, 29 Westmoreland-street. Herron’s, 32 Westmoreland-street. The Sackville Cafe, 7 Sackville-street. PHOTOGRAPHERS. The principal Photographic Galleries in Dublin are :— Chancellor’s, 55 Lower Sackville-street. Glover’s, 124 St. Stephen’s-green. LaFayette’s, 30 Westmoreland-street. Lawrence’s, 5 Upper Sackville-street. Mansfield’s, 90 Grafton-street. Robinson’s, 65 Grafton-street; and Werner’s, 39A Grafton-street. BATHS. St. Stephen’s-green Baths, at the west side of St. Stephen’s-green Park. This comparatively new establishment provides excellent and varied ac¬ commodation, including Turkish baths, with plunge, hot and cold water, fresh and salt, electric and medicated baths. Accommodation for ladies as well as for gentlemen. 30 BATHS. The Turkish Baths, in Lincoln-place, close to Westland-row Terminus, afford good accommo¬ dation both for Ladies and Gentlemen. All kinds of water baths (swimming baths excepted) are here provided. The Hammam Hotel and Turkish Baths, in Upper Sackville-street, are commodious and well con¬ ducted. Warm and cold water baths may be had also. Leinster-street. Turkish and other baths. Nassau-place. Hot and cold water baths; first, second, and third class. The circumstance that there are no swimming baths in Dublin—for there are not any such within the city except the public baths in Tara-street—may be accounted for by the fact that sea bathing can be easily had in the immediate neighbourhood. In the suburbs there are built swimming baths at Kings- court, on the Clontarf-road, at Sandymount (Cran- field’s), at Merrion Pier, and at Blackrock. The principal open sea bathing places for gentlemen are at Salthill and Bray. Gentlemen can bathe at certain points on the shore at Dollymount, Ballybrack, Sandycove, and Dalkey. The two last-named are suitable for swimmers only. Bathing is allowed in Kingstown Harbour before 8 a.m. There are ladies’ bathing places at Williamstown (near Booterstown), Blackrock, Salthill, Kingstown, Sandycove, Killiney, and Bray. BAILEY LIGHT-HOUSE. WHAT’S TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. THE START—HOLYHEAD TO KINGSTOWN. O F the travellers who from the sister kingdom visit Ireland, the great majority embark either at Liverpool or at Holyhead. The passage by the former route usually occupies from eight to ten hours, the distance being 164 miles. The voyage— if a pleasant run of about sixty-four miles may be so 32 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Styled—from Holyhead to Kingstown in the well- fitted mail boats, is accomplished in little over three hours. The express boats belonging to the London and North-Western Railway Company, as a rule, accomplish the journey from Holyhead to Dublin (North Wall Station) well under the four hours. To the tourist by any route, the scene which, as it were, grows upon him as his vessel approaches the beauti¬ ful Bay of Dublin, is at once grand and impressive. Scarcely have the Welsh hills disappeared in the dis¬ tance, when the picturesque outline of the Mourne Mountains, in the most northern province of Ireland, may be descried to the north-west. A little nearer are the Carlingford Hills, looking like so many islands, the lowlands from which they rise being still below the horizon. More southward are the islands of Lambay and Ireland’s Eye, exhibiting, in their fantastic and nearly perpendicular cliffs, the violence of the Irish Sea when roused by tempests from the north or east. Almost right in front is the famous Hill of Howth, a promontory of bare and desolate appearance, but which was anciently covered wuth oak trees, as its name in Irish, Ben Edar, or the Kill of Oaks, implies. The hills of the County Dublin now appear, and beyond them the peaked and many-tinted mountains of Wicklow, terminating on the left with Bray Head, a rugged promontory sloping abruptly into the sea. As the land is neared, DUBLIN BAY. 33 Howth, which had hitherto been an unimportant feature in the panorama, becomes one of its most interesting points. The Bailey rock, with its Light¬ house standing upon an abrupt and almost isolated eminence upon its southern extremity, marks the site of a fort, occupied as early as the first century by Crimthann, King of Ireland, who died here, according to some annalists, in the year 9 a.d., after returning from an expedition, with spoils of wonder¬ ful jewels, amongst which were a golden chariot and chess-board; a conquering sword; a shield with bosses of bright silver; a spear, from the wound of which no one recovered ; a sling, from which no erring shot was discharged ; and two greyhounds with a silver chain. So write the chroniclers of this wild spot,—the history of which is associated with the melancholy wreck of the Queen Victoria steamer, on which occasion fifty-five human beings perished within a stone’s throw of the Lighthouse Point. The Bailey once passed, the vessel enters Dublin Bay, a noble expanse of water, upon the north-western side of which the more elevated por¬ tions of the capital of Ireland become visible. The scene is now magnificent, especially to those who may be fortunate enough to approach Dublin at an early hour in the morning, while the atmosphere is yet uninfluenced by the vapours which a warm summer sun will call into existence, and by which 34 what’s to be seen in Dublin. the exquisitely varied tints of the hills, the woods and pretty villas, of which the Dublin people are justly proud, become blended and softened into OBELISK AT KINGSTOWN. one general effect. Right ahead may be seen Kings¬ town, formerly Dunleary, but re-named in cele¬ bration of the visit of George IV. in 1821 ; in DUBLIN AND KINGSTOWN RAILWAY. 35 memory of which event the obelisk depicted oppo¬ site was erected. It is situated six miles from the capital, and connected with it by a line of railway, which is remarkable as being the second constructed in the Empire. Immediately over Kingstown are the Killiney Hills, fifty years ago a tract of granite rocks, interspersed with patches of heath and furze, but now almost to their summits cleared and planted, and adorned with many a delightful villa. The noble harbour becomes now distinctly visible. The town, with its well-built houses, churches, and other edifices, a middle distance of beautifully undulating hills, closed in and surrounded by a background of picturesque and lofty mountains, forms a scene which is equally striking and prepossessing. As the train starts from the side of the steamer, the tourist, without any trouble about his luggage or any difficulties with porters, such as formerly tried his patience and temper, soon finds himself en¬ joying a pleasant drive of fifteen minutes to Dublin. Here the traveller, particularly if an Englishman, at once feels himself in the land of Erin. The often- heard-of jaunting-cars immediately attract his atten¬ tion, and a new style of voice and accent greets his ear on every side. Once arrived at Dublin, the visitor can, from amongst many, select an hotel comfortable enough to satisfy the most fastidious. We would recommend 36 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. a pretty central situation, especially for visitors who may not have much time to devote to THE CITY. Before noticing the principal features of modern Dublin, it will be well to glance at the past, in order that the inquiring tourist may obtain some idea of the history of the place wherein it is his lot to be a lodger. Suffice it to say, that Dublin is mentioned by Ptolemy about a.d. 140, under the name of Eblana, as a place of considerable note. It is, there¬ fore, a city of very respectable antiquity. In the fifth century St. Patrick is recorded to have founded the church from which the present cathedral takes its name. Little is known of “ Duibhlinn,” or the Dark Pool, till the middle of the ninth century, when the Danes, who had been for some time spoiling many parts of England, Scotland, and Ireland, founded here a great fortress, and made Dublin their chief stronghold for what military gentlemen would now style the eastern district of the island. These foreigners held Dublin for several centuries, sur¬ rounding it with walls and towers, and in course of time building Christ Church Cathedral and other churches. The peaceable inhabitants and merchants, though Danes or of Scandinavian origin, appear to have been generally on very good terms with the Irish, HISTORIC RETROSPECT. 37 as on several occasions, when the naval and military power of the “ foreigners ” was broken, they were not molested or disturbed. At length came the English, in the time of Henry II., and after sus¬ taining a vigorous siege, Dublin became a stronghold in the new interest. In fact, the city was granted to the people of Bristol, who, no doubt, settled here in large numbers, and defended themselves as well as they could from the incursions of the neighbouring mountain clans of Byrnes, Harolds, O’Tuahalls^ and Cavanaghs, who used often to visit the suburbs, and not unfrequently threaten the city itself with fire and sword. Gradually, as the English power increased in the country, Dublin became the seat of government, and so it has continued, with few exceptions, down to the present time. From this it might appear that the capital of Ireland cannot be considered as an Irish city. This, however, is far from being the case. The middle of the last century found Dublin wealthy and prosperous, in¬ creasing on every side, and requiring public build¬ ings on a scale which had not before been dreamt of. Irish capital was embarked to an enormous extent in the erection of mansions for the aristo¬ cracy, and of whole streets for the accommodation of merchants and business-men ; and an Irish Par¬ liament voted grants for many of the proud struc¬ tures which are at present the admiration of all visitors. 38 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. We have now glanced at Dublin in its former state. A few of its statistics will probably interest our readers. The total population of the city, as shown by the latest Census returns, was, in 1881, 249,486, inhabiting 24,261 houses. Owing to the laudable efforts of the Artizans’ Dwellings Company, under whose auspices the old tenement system is disappearing, the number of houses is larger in proportion to the number of inhabitants than in former times. The area within the municipal boun¬ dary is 3,808 acres. The number of families has been computed at 58,000. There are two Protestant cathedrals, and one pro-cathedral of the Roman Catholic Church. To these the reader’s attention will be directed in a later chapter. There are about seventy other places of worship, to some of the principal of which reference has already been made. To the more important of the religious and other edifices, the stranger’s attention shall be drawn in the succeeding portion of this volume. In the meantime, the following suggestions are submitted for the use of all who would see Dublin with the greatest saving of time. SACKVILLE STREET. 39 HOW TO SEE DUBLIN. FIRST TOUR. Sackville-street—Nelson’s Pillar—Sir John Gray’s Monument —The O’Connell Monument—The Post Office—Earl-street —Marlborough-street—The Buildings of the Commissioners of National Education—The Metropolitan Roman Catholic Cathedral—Sackville-street—The Rotunda and Lying-in Hospital—Denmark-st.—St. George’s Church—Mountjoy- square—Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier— Mountjoy Prison—The King’s Inns—North King-st.— Newgate—St. Michan’s Church—Smithfield—The Four Courts. W E have recommended visitors to adopt a central hotel as being the most convenient. We sup¬ pose him in Sackville-street, once occupied almost solely by the chief nobility of Ireland. Whether we regard its magnificent proportions, or the dignity and grandeur of its public buildings, Sackville-street must rank as one of the finest thoroughfares in Europe. The graceful monument standing in its centre commemorates England’s greatest naval hero. It consists of^a Doric column, rising io8 feet above the level of the street, surmounted by a statue of Lord Nelson, 13 feet in height, the work of a native 40 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. sculptor, Thomas Kirk, R.H.A. No stranger should fail to ascend Nelson’s Pillar, as from its summit, which is securely railed round, a map-like view of the surrounding city and delightful panorama of the neighbouring country may be obtained. To the north, in clear weather, the Carlingford and Mourne mountains, in the county of Down, are distinctly visible ; to the east is Dublin Bay ; to the south, Killiney and the Wicklow mountains, extending far into the distance ; and to the west are the Dublin hills, with their beautiful wooded bases stretching towards the rich plains of Meath and Kildare. The attendant at the base of the column charges three¬ pence for each person who ascends. Half-way between Nelson’s Pillar and Carlisle (re-named O’Connell) Bridge stands a marble statue, the monu¬ ment of the late Sir John Gray, M.P., to whom the Dublin public are indebted for their present plentiful supply of water. The waterworks at Roundwood, twenty-five miles from Dublin, which were con¬ structed at his suggestion, will be noticed in another chapter. Close to O’Connell Bridge is the O’Con¬ nell Monument, which comprises a colossal bronze statue of the “Liberator,” a number of figures, in bold relief, representing the professions, arts, and so forth. At the base are four large winged figures, also in bronze. The monument was unveiled on August 15, 1882, in the presence of an enormous concourse of people. NELSON S PILLAR, THE POST OFFICE Close to Nelson’s Pillar is the Post Office, a beau¬ tiful building of mountain granite, erected in i8i8, after designs by the late Francis Johnston. GENERAL POST OFFICE AND NELSON’s PILLAR. Its chief feature upon the exterior is a noble portico, formed of six Ionic columns, supporting a pediment surmounted by three well-executed statues, D 42 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity—a very appropriate selection. There are daily two posts for England, morning and evening, at 6.45 a.m. and 7 p.m- Before the days of railroads, it was an interesting sight, as the clock struck seven, p.m., to witness the turn-out of the mail-coaches (eleven in num¬ ber), for all parts of the kingdom, each with its neat team of horses, its lamps lit, and the guard sounding his horn. But now the mails are despatched at various hours to suit the railways, in a quiet but business-like way. From the Post Office, we recommend our reader to proceed down Earl-street, at the termination of which he will arrive in front of Tyrone House, now the premises of the Commissioners of National Education, a body established in 1831, and incor¬ porated by charter in 1845, and invested with powers for the education of children of the poorer classes in all parts of the kingdom, and of all reli¬ gious denominations, on the principle of combined secular and separate religious instruction. The buildings, which are of chaste and elegant design, comprise the various offices necessary for so great an establishment, a Training College for Teachers of both sexes, and twelve Model Practising Schools of different sizes and organizations, so planned for the purpose of making the teachers in training fully acquainted with the National system NATIONAL BOARD OF EDUCATION. 43 in all its details. The young men and women trained here are, upon passing their examinations, sent out as teachers to the country. From this centre, over 8,000 provincial schools are ruled and dis¬ ciplined. The number of pupils on the rolls of late years has exceeded 1,070,000. The proper working of so vast an establishment requires the unremitting attention of active and efficient officers ; and we find that amongst the Commissioners are some most distinguished men, including leading re¬ presentatives of the various religious communities in Dublin. There are three secretaries, two chiefs of in¬ spectors, and six head inspectors; sixty district inspectors, whose average number of schools is above a hundred ; six unattached inspectors; and as an introduction of the English system, eight in¬ spectors’ assistants. The Parliamentary Grant for 1886-7 was ^851,973. The Dublin Model Practising Schools are open for public inspection on three days in the week. It is interesting to visit the rooms, and witness the examination of the children, who receive not only a good sound English education, but are instructed also in drawing and singing. Strict attention is also paid to the religious teaching of the pupils, accord¬ ing to the tenets of their respective creeds. In the female training establishment the instruction extends 44 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. to washing, ironing, getting-up of linen, cottage cookery, &c., and includes the cutting and making-up of wearing apparel. The Board have very generally compiled the books which are in use among the pupils ; and some idea may be formed of their ex¬ cellence from the fact, that they are extensively used not only in Ireland, but likewise in England, Scotland, Wales, and the Colonies, to a considerable extent. If any difficulty be experienced in getting admission, a reference to the Secretaries will secure both attention and civility. ROMAN CATHOLIC PRO-CATHEDRAL. Immediately opposite the entrance to the Schools is the chief portico of the Metropolitan Roman Catholic Church, a magnificent structure as an architectural whole, but so closed in and hidden by mean buildings, that its effect is almost entirely lost. The style is Doric, and over the principal pediment are three colossal statues—of the Virgin Mary, St. Patrick, and St. Laurence O’Toole. Upon the interior a noble colonnade divides the church into a nave and side aisles, and at the west end, within a semicircular apse, stands the high altar, composed of white marble, and exhibiting some excellent designs in sculpture—amongst the rest an Agnus Dei, in alto relievo. The roof over the chief altar is enriched with a basso relievo of the ROTUNDA HOSPITAL. 45 Ascension. Upon the whole, this is the finest in¬ terior of any Roman Catholic Chapel in Dublin, and will well repay a visit. We now return by Earl- street to Sackville-street. THE ROTUNDA AND LYING-IN HOSPITAL. Passing from the Post Office in a northerly direc¬ tion, the Lying-in Hospital and Rotunda present themselves at the end of the street. The former institution, which was founded in 1745, and opened in its present place in 1757, owes its existence to the exertions of one individual. Dr. Bartholomew Mosse, and remains a lasting record of what well- directed zeal in a good cause may accomplish. The first stone of this fine building was laid in 1751, and in about six years it was completed. Government having contributed;^! 2,000 towards the subscription which had been opened with the view of founding the charity. There is no fee required upon admis¬ sion. The Rotunda, as its name implies, is a build¬ ing circular in form, and it is furnished with several suites of apartments upon its eastern side. Behind it are the grounds of Rutland-square. The houses of the Square, with one exception, are not particu¬ larly worthy of notice. On the north side, however, stands the house which was once the town mansion of the Earl of Charlemont, which is now used as the Census and General Registration Office. And close 46 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. beside it is a Presbyterian Church of noble propor¬ tions, erected by the munificence of the late Mr. Alexander Findlater, at a cost of about _;^i6,ooo. The walk of a few minutes through Gardiner’s- row, which joins the right-hand side of the square, ST.'George’s church. will bring the tourist within view of St. George’s Church, the most remarkable of all the Dublin edifices of its kind for classic beauty and general elegance of detail. It measures 92 feet by 84 in depth, and the spire ascends 200 feet above the ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH. 47 level of the pavement. Upon the pediment which surmounts the western entrance is an inscription in Greek signifying, “ Glory to God in the highest.” The architectural style of the church is Ionic, and it was erected at the enormous cost of ^^90,000, not including the expense of its melodious peal of bells, which were presented by the architect, Mr. Francis Johnston, who may be styled the Sir Christopher Wren of Dublin. The value of the bells has been estimated at ^1^1,300. Returning to Denmark-street, and advancing in a direct line by Gardiner’s-place, we soon arrive at Mountjoy-square, which maintains more of its fashionable style that most places at the north side of the city. This, with one exception, is the most modern of all the squares in Dublin. In 1798 the site was waste land, and served as a place of rendez¬ vous for the disaffected on more than one occasion. Passing onward through Gardiner-street, we soon arrive in front of the Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier, one of the most beautiful and classic edifices of its kind in Ireland. The plan of the Church is a Latin cross. The chief feature of the exterior is a noble portico fifty feet high, of the Ionic order, and constructed entirely of Irish granite. Upon the interior several minor or confessional chapels, of great architectural beauty, branch off from the body of the church. Proceeding now to the Circular- 48 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. road, which forms almost a direct continuation of Gardiner-street, we pass to the right the Mountjoy Convict Prison, one of the most complete struc¬ tures of its class in the British Empire. It was erected by Government to do away with the ne¬ cessity of hulks, and is conducted upon the prin¬ ciple of the great English establishments of a similar description. The convicts are classified according to their ages and crimes, the silent system being strictly enforced. Pursuing our route along the Circular-road, we reach the Grand Canal and Bla- quiere-bridge. We recommend a pause for a few moments on this spot, from which an admirable view of the city and immediate suburbs is obtained. If time admits, Phibsborough Chapel and Nunnery, which are a short distance further on, might be visited. Turning down by the canal bank, we soon reach the BROADSTONE, and the extensive and well-arranged Terminus of the Midland Great Western Railway, whence a good view may be obtained of THE KING’S INNS, a building possessed of very considerable claims to architectural excellence. The situation, however, is, with some reason, said to be most ill-chosen, both INNS OF COURT. 49 for the purposes of business and for the proper display of its chaste and elegant proportions. The front represents a centre and two wings, the whole surmounted by an octangular cupola. In the centre is a lofty archway, which forms a passage through the whole range of the buildings into Henrietta- street. In the wings, which are surmounted by pediments, are well-designed doorways, ornamented on either side with colossal caryatides, those on the southern wing representing Security and Law ; the former holding a key, the latter a scroll. The figures on the northern wing are. Plenty, with a cornucopia; and a Bacchante, with a vase and grapes. The dining-hall, in the northern wing, is a magnificent apartment, eighty-one feet in length, by forty-two in breadth, ornamented with some thirty life-size portraits of eminent judges. Henrietta-street lies immediately to the south of the King’s Inns. Its principal attraction is a hand¬ some building, erected at the cost of ^ 20 , 000 , to contain the Library formerly deposited in the southern wing of the older structure. The hall, and a finely-painted window upon the first landing, are well worth attention. The Library contains a very large collection of books, chiefly relating to law ; but it is comparatively seldom used, except by members of the legal profession, owing to its out-of- the-way position. It is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day. 5° what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. The visitors who have accompanied us through Sackville-street, and the more aristocratic thorough¬ fares upon the northern side, will find in this portion of the city an unfavourable contrast. Nevertheless, they should proceed through North King-street to Green-street, where once was situated Newgate, the old City Prison, in which were confined many of the most remarkable characters compromised in the re¬ bellion of 1798, to many of whom it was their last home. The old Court House, which still remains, has been the scene of many remarkable trials. Here Mr. Jeremiah O’Donovan Rossa was sentenced on 12th December, 1865, to penal servitude for life, on account of his connexion with the Fenian movement. Forty-seven other Fenians were convicted at about the same time, and two were sentenced to death. The trials of the Phoenix Park murderers, of whom five were hanged in 1883, also took place here. Hence, we may proceed through Beresford-street to St. Michan’s Church, the vaults beneath which, owing, it is supposed, to some chemical peculiarity in the surrounding soil, have the remarkable pro¬ perty of resisting for many years decomposition in the bodies therein deposited. An oak forest grew here in days gone by, and some of the timber taken from hence in the reign of King John is said to form now a part of the roof of Westminster Hall. Near the Communion Table in St. Michan’s is a curious THE ROYAL BARRACKS. 51 antique figure of a man in armour. From hence, through Church-street, the tourist passes the ancient Cattle Market of Smithfield, now superseded by a new and commodious one, opened in Manor-street. He next goes through Queen-street to Blackhall- street, formerly Oxmantown Green, facing which is the School, founded by Charles II. in 1670, for the maintenance and education of the sons of Freemen of the City of Dublin, commonly called the Blue- coat School or King’s Hospital. It maintains more than 100 boys, and its income is ,5^3,800. It is an interesting institution, and deserves a visit. Ad¬ joining it is Barrack-street, which will bring us to the ROYAL BARRACKS, where accommodation is provided for two regiments of Infantry and one of Cavalry. The buildings, which are arranged in squares, are well suited to the requirements of the military. The position is elevated, and in front is an esplanade for the exercise of the men, ornamented with some tro¬ phies from Sebastopol. Almost immediately behind the barracks is Arbour Hill, the great Military Hos¬ pital for the eastern portion of Ireland ; there is also the Military Prison. The view from the esplanade is one of the finest in Dublin. Immediately opposite to the Royal Barracks are 52 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. the extensive stores belonging to the firm of brewers known as Arthur Guinness, Son, and Co. All day long on the Victoria Wharf, adjoining the stores, a large number of men may be seen employed in load¬ ing the steam barges with casks of the famous Dublin Stout, or Double X Porter. A beautiful metal structure, called the King’s Bridge, spans the Liffey a little to the westward. Shortly after the visit of George IV. to our shores in 1821, it was agreed that the auspicious event should be commemorated by a public monument; a sub¬ scription was set on foot, and a committee formed to carry out the views of the subscribers. The King’s Bridge is the result of their labours. From this point the eye may rest upon many a fine, im¬ posing, and venerable building. Returning to the city, we now pass along the quays, and immediately find ourselves beside an elegant iron structure, VICTORIA BRIDGE, built to replace the famous Bloody Bridge. The original structure was built of wood in 1670. The name is derived from an affray which took place the following year, arising from the riotous conduct of a body of apprentices who assembled here for the pur¬ pose of breaking down the bridge. The military. VICTORIA BRIDGE. 53 however, were called out, and about twenty of the rioters were seized and committed for trial. In an attempted rescue made by their fellows, four were killed, and hence the somewhat ill-omened name. The Whitworth bridge, the next but one, occupies the site of the first, and for many centuries the only, bridge of Dublin. Few strangers can fail to remark the beauty of the Dublin quays, which are nearly three miles long. The Liffey, for its whole course through the city, is not hidden, like other rivers, by houses and wharfs. It is visible all through, and you may travel on either bank by a broad, well- paved road passing immediately between the houses and the river. The bridges, of which there are nine within the municipal boundary, are generally re¬ markable for their architectural elegance. From several points two or three may be seen at one view, and at night, with a full tide, the reflection of the lighted shop windows, and of the innumerable lamps along the quays and upon the bridges, has a very pleasing effect. Not far from Whitworth Bridge, we see upon Arran-quay, at the north side of the river, the Roman Catholic Chapel of St. Paul, one of the most elegant structures of its class in Dublin. Its front, which faces the river, consists of a portico in granite, with four massive columns and an entablature in the Ionic order, the whole surmounted by a tower and 54 what's to be seen in DUBLIN cupola. This is the principal Chapel for the Roman Catholic soldiers, who attend Divine Service from the neighbouring barracks. Their appearance be¬ tween ten and eleven o’clock on Sunday is very ani¬ mated. A little further to the east a fine view is obtained of one of the principal architectural orna¬ ments to our city, namely, the Courts of Law, com¬ monly called THE FOUR COURTS. Prior to 1695, the Irish Courts of Law were sepa¬ rate and ambulatory. They were sometimes holden at Carlow, at Drogheda, or in the Castle of Dublin. Subsequently they were removed to Christ-church- lane. The present stately edifice was begun by Mr. Cooley in 1776, upon a site which had been occupied by a Dominican monastery, called Saint Saviour’s. The architect dying when he had not completed more than the western wing, the work was handed over to Mr. James Gandon, by whom it was finished in 1800, at the cost of ;^2oo,ooo. The whole of the front buildings form a rectangle of 440 feet in front by 170 deep. The principal features are, a centre containing the Four Courts, the Chancery, Queen’s Bench (first and second), and Exchequer Divisions of the High Court of Justice; and two wings, in which are contained the various offices of the Courts. Over the centre, a beautiful Corinthian COURTS OF LAW. 55 portico, stands a statue of Moses, supported on either side by Justice and Mercy ; on the corners are the statues of Wisdom and Authority, “ To have a clear conception,” writes Walsh, “ of the disposition of the various apartments of the inside, as they are arranged round the circular hall, it is necessary first to con¬ ceive the plan well, which may be distinctly deli¬ neated in the imagination by figuring a circle of sixty-four feet diameter, inscribed in the centre of a square of 140 feet, with the Four Courts radiating from the circle to the angles of the square.” The columns round the hall are of the Corinthian order, twenty-five feet high, fluted the upper two- thirds of the shaft, and stand upon a sub-plinth that contains the steps of ascent into the Courts and avenues. The entablature is continued around un¬ broken, above which is an attic pedestal having in the dado eight sunk panels. In the panels over the entrances to the Courts are historical pieces in bas-relief, representing four great events in British history:—ist. William the Conqueror establishing Courts of Justice, &c. 2nd. King John signing Magna Charta before the Barons. 3rd. Henry II. on landing in Ireland receiving the Irish Chieftains. 4th. James I. abolishing the Brehon Laws. A circular lantern, having twelve windows, and terminating in an hemispherical dome, rises witli great effect over the circular hall. Upon the exte- 56 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. rior of the lantern are twenty-four Corinthian pillars, supporting an entablature. Between the windows in the dome are eight colossal statues in alto-re¬ lievo, emblematic respectively of Liberty, Justice, Wisdom, Prudence, Law, Mercy, Eloquence, and Punishment. There are also medallions of eight eminent ancient lawgivers, viz., Moses, Lycurgus, Solon, Numa, Confucius, Alfred, Mancho-Capac, and Ollamh Fodhla. The interior of the hall is ornamented by marble statues of Lord Plunket and Lord O’Hagan (Chan¬ cellors), Sir Michael O’Loghlen (Master of the Rolls), Chief Baron Joy, and Chief Justice Whiteside. Behind the front building are the Vice-Chancellor’s Court, the Courts of Probate, Admiralty, and Bank¬ ruptcy, and the Courts and Offices of the Land Judges. During term time the scene within the hall, which is open to the public as well as to the barristers, is —especially when a “ sensation case ” is being tried —animated and striking :—Grave-looking lawyers, and sometimes graver-looking clients, in close coun¬ cil with their solicitors, waiting for the moment when their case shall be called on; briefless barristers endeavouring to look as busy as possible ; numbers of witnesses and idlers sprinkled here and there; clients hunting for their solicitors, and solicitors hunting for their clients ; groups of all sorts talking GRATTAN BRIDGE. 57 on all manner of subjects, from the affairs of State to the state of the weather. Here some of the brightest ornaments of the bar have for years sauntered and lounged, unnoticed and unknown, waiting still patiently for that “ tide in the affairs of men, which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune.” Here, in the “ good old times,” were often arranged those little necessary preliminaries to insure a peaceable fight in the “ Fifteen Acres.” Time was when, in Dublin at least, a barrister should be ready at a moment’s notice to fight for his client with other weapons than such as at present the law recognises. It was often a case of adjournment from the court to the Phoenix Park, where in those days gentlemen were allowed to shoot each other with almost perfect impunity. One eminent lawyer, aware that the so-called “Fifteen Acres” were in reality about ten times that number, was careful to insert in his challenge the words, “ be the same more or less.” Beyond the Hall and the Courts, which are uniform in appearance, there is little else in the building which would interest the reader. We now pass from Richmond Bridge to Grattan (formerly Essex) Bridge, a very beautiful specimen of pontal architecture. The roadway is perfectly level, and is supported on five arches. It was first named after Arthur, Earl of Essex, who was Lord E 58 what's to be seen in DUBLIN. Lieutenant here in 1676. The bridge has been restored, first in 1755 and again in 1874. The tourist, from the centre of Grattan Bridge, may have two very fine views, the one up, and the other down the stream. At night, before the shops have been closed, the scene is remarkable and in¬ teresting. We are now in the ancient neighbourhood of one of the finest abbeys possessed by mediseval Dublin, but of which scarcely a vestige remains. It has given name to St. Mary’s Abbey. The curious in such matters will find a crypt remaining in a sawyer’s yard,—but to the general public it is scarcely worth a visit. Close to Grattan Bridge stands, on Ormond Quay, a handsome Gothic structure, one of the finest Presbyterian Churches of Dublin. We have now almost arrived at the place whence we started ; but still, passing down the quays, the Metal Bridge, from the singularity of its construc¬ tion, claims a passing notice. It was opened in 1816 for foot-passengers only, who pay a toll of one half¬ penny. The bridge, exclusive of the end piers, is 140 feet in length, by 12 feet. It is constructed entirely of cast metal, and consists of one arch, forming the segment of an ellipse. The appearance is light and graceful. The cost was about ;^3,ooo, O’CONNELL (CARLISLE) BRIDGE. 59 for which outlay the proprietors were allowed by the Corporation, whose tenants they are, to levy the toll, which, however, is not enforced after 11 o’clock, P.M. We next arrive at O’Connell Bridge, better known as Carlisle Bridge, the principal thoroughfare in Dublin, connecting Sackville-street with Westmore- land-street. It is a fine level structure, built upon three arches, and is remarkable from the fact that its width is slightly in excess of its length ; it was rebuilt in 1880. From its centre may be seen a set of city views which are not equalled in Great Britain. To the northward is Sackville-street, with its splen¬ did houses and public buildings, the Post Office, Nelson’s Pillar, the Botundo, and in the distance the spires of St. George’s and the Findlater Church. Eastward is the port of Dublin, with its quays and forests of masts, overtopped by the graceful front and cupola of the Custom House. The loop-line of railway, to connect the Kingstown line with the Great Northern, and so bring the whole railway system of Ireland into communication for the first time, is now in course of construction, and will be principally built upon arches. The viaduct crossing the Liffey will run between Carlisle Bridge and the Custom House, but the upper and more ornamental portion of that building will be still fully visible. To the south is broad and busy Westmoreland-street, 6o what’s to be seen in DUBLIN, with the marble statue of William Smith O’Brien at the nearer end, and Trinity College and the Bank of Ireland at the further. Westward are the quays and bridges already mentioned, over which, in the distance, loom the ancient towers of Christ Church, St. Michael’s (the Synod Hall), and St. Audoen’s. ROYAL HIBERNIAN ACADEMY. 6i SECOND TOUR. The Royal Hibernian Academy House—Christian Union Buildings—The Union Chapel—The Custom House—Ter¬ minus of the Great Northern Railway—The North Wall and Lighthouse. Once again taking our start from Sackville-street, we proceed by Lower Abbey-street to the Royal Hibernian Academy House, erected by the late Francis Johnston, Esq. The Academy was incor¬ porated by Royal Charter in 1823, for the study of painting, sculpture, and architecture. The President is Sir Thomas Jones. The exterior of the building does not present any remarkable feature ; the first story is supported by two Doric columns, placed at each side of a recess, through which is the entrance to the exhibition-rooms. The Exhibition, which is annual, and embraces works in painting, sculpture, and architecture, usually opens in February or March, and seldom closes before the end of May. The rooms, of which three are devoted to the pur- 62 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. poses of the Exhibition, are admirably suited to the requirements of the Academy. The Library con¬ tains a considerable collection of books, chiefly relating to Art, and in the upper rooms are many valuable pictures. During the early part of the season, when tourists mostly visit Dublin, the Exhi¬ bition, which generally comprises works from all parts of the Empire, and not unfrequently from the Continent, will be found open, and we would strongly recommend a visit: the charge of admission in the day-time is one shilling ; on Sunday after¬ noons the price is reduced to twopence. For some weeks prior to its closing, it is open by gaslight in the evenings for the nominal charge of one penny. Nearly opposite to the Academy is the Presby¬ terian Church, “ Union Chapel,” a plain but taste¬ fully designed structure,—and the Christian Union Buildings, which occupy the site of the old Metro¬ politan Hall, and comprise a club for young men of various Protestant denominations, besides spa¬ cious rooms used for the purposes of religious meetings. We now arrive at the CUSTOM HOUSE, without exception the most sumptuous edifice appro¬ priated to such use in the United Kingdom. The building stands on the north side of the River Liffey, CUSTOM HOUSE. 63 to which its magnificent front faces, but the beauty of the building cannot be justly appreciated by the visitor who views it from any point at the northern side of the river; he should cross by the swivel bridge to the opposite quay, from which its magnificent elevation may be seen to the best advantage. Un¬ fortunately, the commerce of the port of Dublin is wholly inadequate to occupy so extensive a building. CUSTOM HOUSE. For many years the greater portion of the space within the walls was unused, and for some time past Government has been appropriating the unoccupied offices to departments for which they were not originally designed. Besides the offices of Excise 64 WHAT^S TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. and Customs, we have here a heterogeneous gather¬ ing, comprising amongst others the Local Govern¬ ment Board, the Board of Works, Income Tax, and Board of Trade. The whole building is insulated, exhibiting four decorated fronts to view, answering almost directly to the four cardinal points of the compass ; the form is an oblong quadrangle, 375 feet long, by 205 feet deep. Within are two courts, east and west, divided from each other by the centre pile, which, 131 feet broad, extends the whole depth from north to south. The whole is decorated with columns and ornaments of the Doric order, with some inno¬ vations. The principal front, which faces the river, is of Portland stone, and presents a magnificent portico, surmounted by an entablature, the frieze of which is ornamented with ox heads entire ; on the attic story, over the four pillars of the por¬ tico, are well-executed statues of Neptune, Plenty, Industry, and Mercury. On the tympanum is an alto- relievo, representing the friendly union of Britannia and Ireland, who are represented cordially embracing each other, while Neptune, on the right, is driving away in despair. A beautiful arcade runs along the lower story of this front, which is ornamented above by a balustrade and cornice. From the centre of the pile rises a cupola, said to be built on exactly the same plan as those of Greenwich Hospital; a dome twenty-six feet in diameter, crowned by a DOCKS AND NORTH WALL. 65 Statue of Hope resting on her anchor, surmounts the whole, at a distance of 113 feet from the ground. The northern front lias also a portico of four columns in the centre, but no pediment. Statues, representing Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, are placed over each column. This front has neither the arcades nor recessed columns which add so much to the effect of the southern side. From tlie main entrance, the passage leads to an octagonal vestibule immediately under the cupola, from which, by a very elegant stair¬ case, we gain access to the Long Room, a truly noble apartment, seventy feet square, decorated dowm each side by a range of composite columns support¬ ing an arched ceiling, through which the light is admitted by two large circular lanterns, richly orna¬ mented with devices in stucco. Upon the whole, the Custom House may be considered the most highly decorated of all our public buildings. The cost of its erection and fitting up has been estimated at half a million. The docks, which extend eastwards from the Custom House, are large and commodious, and ex¬ hibit a considerable display of shipping. We re¬ commend our readers to walk round the various basins, which are constructed of mountain granite, and then to leave the docks by one of the gates leading to the North Wall, the quay from which all the Dublin steamboats depart for England. At full 66 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. tide, upon a fine summer’s day, the scene is here extremely animated. Having crossed the last of the three draw-bridges that intersect the quay, we arrive at the Dublin Terminus of the London and North-Western Rail¬ way Company. Here the steamers of the Company leave for Holyhead to the number of four daily, and trains run in connection with the Great Northern, Midland Great Western, and Great Southern and Western Railways. Each of the two last-named rail¬ ways has a Terminus of its own on the North Wall. From here may be seen to the north, the churches of St. Laurence O’Toole and St. Barnabas. The former—with a spire—is a Roman Catholic church ; the latter—with a square tower—belongs to the Church of Ireland or Protestant Episcopalian Com¬ munion. A walk as far as the Lighthouse at the termina¬ tion of the Wall may be found interesting, as the Port of Dublin has of late years been very largely extended in this quarter. Turning to the left from the Lighthouse, and passing along the East Wall, which borders an arm of the Bay, towards the great embankment of the Dublin and Drogheda Railway, the visitor may obtain several delightful views of the far-famed village of Clontarf, as also of Howth Hill. By the North Strand, the Terminus of the Great Northern Railway may be reached; and to the right, GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY. 67 near the corner of Amiens-street and Gloucester- street, may be seen Aldborough House, formerly the town mansion of the Earls of that name, subse¬ quently a school, and at present used as a barrack. The Terminus of the Great Northern Railway is a handsome stone building, in the Italian style of architecture, the main structure extending in front 140 feet. It consists of a centre and two wings, terminating in two campaniles. Over the centre rises a tower or large campanile, ninety feet in height, containing an observatory, and a bell which is used for the purpose of giving signals. An auxiliary building of somewhat similar style, but built of red brick, has been added recently. The Terminus contains the usual apartments and offices considered necessary for railway business on a large scale. The tourist who has accompanied us thus far will now have acquired a very correct knowledge of the northern portion of the city of Dublin. We shall suppose ourselves once more in Sackville-street, on the point of starting for the southern side, a district infinitely more rich in historical associations, as in other respects, than the portion with which he has become acquainted. 68 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN, THE BANK OF IRELAND. THIRD TOUR. Westmoreland-street—The Bank of Ireland—College-street— .Statues of William III., Moore, Grattan, Goldsmith, and Burke—Trinity College—Dublin Castle—The City Hall— Christ Church Cathedral—Strongbow’s Monument—St. Patrick’s Cathedral—St. Stephen’s Green—Aungier-street— Moore’s Birth-place—The Royal College of Surgeons—The Royal College of Science—The Royal University—Alex¬ andra College. Westmoreland-street is one of the handsomest thoroughfares in Dublin. It extends from Carlisle Bridge to the Bank and College, which edifices, from Carlisle Bridge, form a most picturesque and inte- BANK OF IRELAND. 69 resting group. The Bank has long been considered as the architectural gem of Dublin ; some writers have even described it as unsurpassed by any secular building in Europe. The building, we read, was commenced in the year 1729, during the adminis¬ tration of John, Lord Carteret. Strange to say, the name of the architect of so important an edifice, the Parliament House of a nation, has not been pre¬ served. He is said to have died while the plans, signed with fictitious names, were under considera¬ tion. Nothing can surpass, in simplicity and dignity, the magnificent front of this once aristocratic build¬ ing as seen from College-green or Grafton-street. “ It derives all its beauty from a simple impulse of fine art, and is one of the few instances of form only expressing true symmetry.” Of its external appear¬ ance, our illustration will convey a very correct idea. Upon the passing of the Act of Legislative Union between this country and Great Britain in 1800, there was no further occasion for an Irish Parliament House, and the whole of this splendid structure, which had cost ;^95,ooo, was sold to the Governor and Company of the Bank of Ireland for ^40,000, and an annual rent of ;!^24o. In the principal front, facing College-green, is a large quadrangular recess, which forms a kind of court-yard, round the sides of which passes a magnificent colonnade, in the Ionic style, supporting an entablature and cornice, sur- 70 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. mounted by an attic. The tympanum of the princi¬ pal portico contains the royal arms, over which is a grand colossal statue of Hibernia, supported by Fidelity and Commerce. Circular screen walls, the full height of the building, enriched with a rustic basement, and with niches placed at intervals be¬ tween two columns, and surmounted by an entabla¬ ture and cornice, connect the centre with the eastern and western fronts. The former of these, in West- moreland-street, consists of a Corinthian portico of six columns, with tympanum, and statues of Forti¬ tude, supported by Justice and Liberty. Opposite to this has been placed the statue of Moore, Ireland’s sweet lyric poet, and further down, the Memorial Fountain to the late eminent surgeon. Sir Philip Crampton, Bart. The western front is a portico of four Ionic columns, with pediment. The interior of the building has been so changed from time to time, to suit the purposes of the Bank, that little of its ori¬ ginal character remains. The only unaltered portion is the late House of Lords, a magnificent apartment, ornamented with tapestry representing the Siege of Derry and the Battle of the Boyne. The statue of George HI. occupies a semicircular recess, where formerly stood the throne. An introduction from one of the directors or any of the leading officials will enable a stranger to witness the printing of the bank-notes, a very interesting*process. The late TRINITY COLLEGE. 7 T House of Commons is the present cash office. A perfect model of the Bank occupies a separate room, and is worth examining. Nearly opposite to the Bank, in College-green, is an equestrian statue of King William III., erected by the citizens of Dublin, shortly after the Battle of the Boyne. Formerly it was the custom for the ad¬ mirers of the King to assemble round this statue on the anniversary of his great triumph, for the purpose of expressing their loyalty and devotion to Protes¬ tant interests, by firing of cannon and other demon¬ strations. This custom, however, had long been given up, and no one seemed to be thinking much either of King William or his statue, until one morn¬ ing all Dublin was startled with the intelligence of the poor King having been blown up by gunpowder. It was quite true—nothing remained by the horse but the King’s legs ; the body was sent to the dis¬ tance of a dozen yards or so, and was at length re¬ moved to the watch-house. Of late years it has enjoyed comparative immunity from molestation. A fine bronze statue of Henry Grattan, by Foley, faces the main entrance of TRINITY COLLEGE, a building, upon the whole, not unworthy a posi¬ tion in the proudest capital of Europe. In the front on one side is a very beautiful and life-like 72 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN, Statue erected to Oliver Goldsmith, and in a corre¬ sponding position upon the other side, a statue to the memory of the Right Hon. Edmund Burke, —these two distinguished Irishmen having matricu¬ lated in Trinity College. TRINITY COLLEGE. This seat of learning owes its existence to the exertions and literary ambition of John Leech, Archbishop of Dublin, and the kindly fostering care of Pope Clement the Fifth, whose Bull, dated July 13, 1311, empowered the Archbishop to estab- TRINITY COLLEGE. 73 lish a University at Dublin. The statutes were first signed on February loth, 1320. The site of the present building was originally occupied by the monastery of All Hallows, an Augustinian house. At the dissolution of monas¬ teries, the mayor and citizens of Dublin appear to have become possessed of the ground, which they granted to Adam Loftus, at that time Archbishop of Dublin. This prelate having produced a royal charter and mortmain licence from Queen Elizabeth, the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, near Dublin, was founded on the 3rd of March, 1591. At first, the body consisted only of a Provost and three Fellows, but from time to time, as its scope increased. Fellows and Professors became more numerous. There are at present seven Senior Fellows, a variable number of Junior Fellows, not less than twenty-five, and seventy Scholars on the founda¬ tion, besides Lecturers, Professors of Divinity, Me¬ dicine, Law, Engineering, History, Mathematics, Oratory, and Ancient and Modern Languages. There are thirty Sizars, and about 1,200 other students. The present Provost is the Rev. George Salmon, D.D., F.R.S., a scientist and theologian of cosmopolitan fame. The principal building, of which we have given an illustration, is four stories high, and measures in length 300 and in depth 600 feet. The other features of the College are the Chapel, the Examination Hall, F 74 what’s to be seen in Dublin. the Library, the Dining Hall, the Museums, the New Buildings for Lectures, a most elegant struc¬ ture, designed with consummate taste, in which the different Irisli marbles are to be seen in their adap¬ tations to building, the Anatomy House, and a Printing House. In the centre space stands a noble Campanile, erected by a former Primate, the Most Rev. Lord John G. Beresford, at a cost of ;^io,ooo. Passing through the main entrance, the floor of which displays the oldest example of wooden pavement to be found in our city, we reach a magnificent square, 560 feet in length, by 250. On the north side is the chapel, a handsome building, for the gallery of which the public may obtain orders admitting them to Divine Service on Sunday morning at 10 o’clock. The service is choral, and being extremely well per¬ formed, is a source of attraction to many. Adjoining the Chapel is the Dining Hall, to which we strongly recommend a visit, as it contains some very fine por¬ traits,—amongst others, those of Frederick Prince of Wales, father of George the Third; Cox, Arch¬ bishop of Cashel ; and Provost Baldwin. There are also portraits of Lord Avonmore, Lord Kilwarden, Henry Grattan, Hussey Burgh, Henry Flood, Chief Justice Downes, Most Rev. Lord J. G. Beresford, Lord Cairns, and Lord Rosse. Opposite to the chapel stands the Examination Hall, in which are life-size portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Dean Swift, TRINITY COLLEGE MUSEUMS. 75 Bishop Berkeley, and others, also a handsome marble monument to Provost Baldwin. Close at hand is the Library, a very splendid building, three stories high, of which the lower is a noble arcade, probably designed to afford the students an oppor¬ tunity of taking exercise in wet weather. The Library contains a vast collection of books, some of which are of the very highest value, and also a very precious collection of manuscripts, chiefly Irish, which are deposited in a separate fire-proof room. This Library, in common with the Bodleian at Oxford, and that of the British Museum, became by Act of Parliament entitled, free of charge, to a copy of every book published in the United Kingdom. Upon first entering, the visitor is struck with the noble proportions of the apartment, which is deco¬ rated with admirably executed busts of illustrious men, ancient and modern. The Library, we may add, can be viewed from lo o’clock a.m., till 4 p.m., upon application by visitors, who enter at the west door, and are invited to sign their names in a book kept for the purpose. Some of the more valuable manuscripts can only be seen upon an order from the Librarian. The visitor may easily obtain ad¬ mission to the Natural History Museum, situated at the further end of the College Park. This building was opened in 1876, having been erected at a cost of 2,000. The Natural History collection was 76 what’s to be seen in Dublin. then removed hither from the rooms which it pre¬ viously occupied over the main entrance. These rooms are now used for examinations. There is in the Natural History Museum a fine collection of stuffed quadrupeds and birds, and a remarkable skeleton of an Irish giant, measuring about eight feet. In the other Museum building, which forms the south side of the new quadrangle, will be found an interesting collection of minerals and other geo¬ logical specimens ; also a magnificent skeleton, al¬ most perfect, of the great deer of Ireland. The cor¬ responding room at the other end of the building contains a collection of engineering models. Adorn¬ ing the stair-case of the front building are a number of weapons, ornaments, and dress from the South Sea Islands. In the Library is a harp, formerly sup¬ posed to have belonged to Brian Boroihme, King of Munster, but now proved to be of a much later period, probably not older than the fourteenth cen¬ tury. It is, nevertheless, a most interesting relic, and perhaps the oldest of all such instruments of ancient Ireland now remaining. Our fair readers will be gratified by an inspection of some of the original Irish brooches, which have furnished models for the elegant ornaments now so generally used amongst the ladies. Some fine specimens of Ogham writing, a style of character said by some antiquaries to have been used in Ireland long previous to the in- THE CASTLE. 77 troduction of Christianity, may be seen in the lower apartment. Upon the whole, the Museums may be looked upon as very interesting depositories for ob¬ jects relating to many of the sciences, and should be visited by every stranger. The newest building contains the lecture theatre, dissecting rooms, la¬ boratories, &c., connected with the Medical School. The College Park is a fine open space, much re¬ sorted to by students and others for the purpose of recreation and exercise, cricket being a very favourite game. The racket court, lawn-tennis courts, gymna¬ sium, and pavilion, are all within convenient dis¬ tance of one another, THE CASTLE. From Trinity College we proceed by College-green to the Castle, a building once of the very highest importance to the city, but at present a Castle only in name, so great are the changes that this once mighty fortress has from time to time undergone. The ori¬ ginal structure is supposed to have been commenced by Meyler Fitzwalter in 1205, but the work was finally completed by Henry de Londres, Archbishop ofDublin,'in 1220. Very little, if any, of the original structure now remains, the whole having been almost entirely rebuilt at various times. The Castle is di¬ vided by a range of buildings into two courts or yards, the upper and the lower, into the former of which 78 what’s to be seen in Dublin. the principal entrance from Castle-street leads. The stern portcullised tower which formerly stood here has given place to a gateway, through which there is a passage for carriages, with two lateral gates for foot-passengers. To the right of this is a building of Ionic architecture, surmounted by a tower, called the Bedford Tower, over which rises a cupola, with a ball and vane. Here are apartments for the aides-de-camp and other officials of the Viceregal Court. The state and private apartments of the Lord Lieutenant and suite extend along the southern, and a portion of the eastern, side of the court. The presence chamber, which is placed over the colon¬ nade, contains the throne and canopy, covered with crimson velvet, richly ornamented with gold lace and carved work, gilt. The Grand Hall of the Castle, commonly called St. Patrick’s Hall, is a stately, spacious apartment, highly ornamented, and deco¬ rated with paintings, one of which represents St. Patrick converting the Irish to Christianity ; another, Henry IL receiving the submission of the Irish chieftains who paid him homage during his occupa¬ tion of a portion of Ireland in 1172. The lower court, though larger than the upper, is less regular in appearance. Its most striking objects are the Castle Chapel, a very beautiful Gothic structure, and the Birmingham, sometimes called the Record, Tower, the only remaining original portion of the fortress. THE CASTLE. 79 The Chapel stands on the site of an old structure, taken down in the year 1808. It is considered, and not without reason, a most exquisite modern speci¬ men of the later Gothic architecture. It consists of a simple choir, without nave or transept. From the northern and southern sides a series of exquisitely proportioned buttresses, terminating in crocketts and pinnacles, divide a range of well-designed windows, ornamented with stained glass. The dripstones and archheads are decorated with a series of decorated heads. Over the eastern doorways are busts of the V^irgin, St. Peter, St. Patrick, Brian Boroihme, and Dean Swift. The interior of the chapel displays some of the richest and most beautiful carvings in oak to be found in these kingdoms. The panels of the gallery are ornamented with the armorial bearings of the viceroys from an early period. The eastern window, a present from Lord Whitworth, is enriched with subjects admirably executed in stained glass, representing Christ before the judgment-seat, the Evangelists, and figures emblematic of Faith, Hope, and Charity. Divine service (full choral) on Sundays commences at half-past eleven. The buildings of the Lower Castle Yard which re¬ main to be noticed are, the Ordnance Office and the headquarters of the Metropolitan Police. Ad¬ joining the former is an armoury, containing 60,000 stand of arms, and a large collection of pikes and So what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Other weapons seized or surrendered at various periods, from 1798 to 1867. The relieving of the guard at the Castle, on which occasion the band executes a variety of popular airs, has long been a source of attraction to the citizens of Dublin. Such of our readers as are fond of a military spectacle cannot fail to be interested by a visit to the Upper Castle Yard on any fine morning, at eleven o’clock. By returning now a few paces in the direction of Trinity College, we reach South Great George’s- street and the new buildings of the South City Market Company. This handsome edifice is com¬ pletely insulated, and covers a space one hundred yards square, or one acre and three-quarters in ex¬ tent. The cost of the building was ;^ 6 ^,ooo, and the site was purchased for a similar sum. The archi¬ tecture is Gothic, with Flemish ornamentation. The materials are chiefly red Bridgewater brick and terra¬ cotta. The interior market is 240 feet long by 120 feet wide, and 60 feet high. The principal tower is 105 feet in height. Of the four sides, three are highly ornamental, and similar to one another. THE CITY HALL (FORMERLY THE ROYAL EXCHANGE). Immediately adjoining the Castle is the City Hall, a structure of very elegant proportions. CITY HALL. 8l and of great beauty of detail, but not now used for the purpose for which it was originally intended. For many years this, one of the very finest of the public buildings of our city, was scarcely applied to any use at all—the Exchange, for all business pur¬ poses, having been removed to the Commercial Buildings. It is now made use of by the Dublin Corporation, who transact the civic business within its walls. The form of this edifice is nearly a square of loo feet; there are three fronts, in the Corinthian order, crowned by a dome, rising from the centre of the building. The northern front, consisting of a range of six columns, with their corresponding pilasters and entablature, sustains a noble pediment; in this front a new entrance of Portland stone has been erected, which contrasts very favourably with the old entrance, which was crowned with unsightly railings. Excepting in the. want of a pediment, there is little difference between the northern and western fronts. An elegant balus¬ trade, interrupted only by the pediment of the northern front, and resting upon a very elaborate cornice, runs round the summit. On entering this edifice, the attention is imme¬ diately called to many conspicuous beauties, but, above all, to the general form. Twelve fluted pillars of the Composite order, thirty-two feet high, are circularly disposed in the centre of a square area. 82 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. covered by a highly enriched entablature ; above which is a beautiful cylindrical lantern, about ten feet high, perforated by twelve circular windows, ornamented with festoons of laurel leaves, the whole crowned with a handsome spherical dome, divided into hexagonal compartments, enriched and well- proportioned, and lighted from the centre by a large circular skylight. On each side of the twelve columns which support the dome are impost pilas¬ ters, of the Ionic order, rising to upwards of half the height of the columns, the same as those which appear on the outside of the building, and covered with a fluted frieze and enriched cornice. The side¬ walks of the square are covered with a flat ceiling, the height of the impost pilasters, with enriched soffits from the pilasters in the centre to others opposite them against the wall. Behind four of the columns, answering to the angles of the building, are recesses, with desks and other accommodation for writing, which are not only very convenient, but serve to square the side-walks, in the blank arcades of which seats are placed. The floor through the whole ambulatory, particularly under the dome, is handsomely inlaid, and the columns, pilasters, arcade, floor, staircases, &c., are all of Portland stone, which produces a very fine effect. Opposite the northern entrance is a statue, in bronze, of George III., by Van Nost, and another of CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL. 83 Thomas Drummond, sometime Chief Secretary for Ireland, by our distinguished native sculptor, Hogan ; there is also a statue of Henry Grattan, by Chantrey ; one of the late Dr. Lucas 3 and a full-length statue of O’Connell, by Hogan. Upon the floor are marked standards of lineal measure. Passing from the City Hall by Cork-hill and Castle-street—the higliest point of the ancient city of Dublin—a paved passage on our left leads us down the Castle steps to Hoey’s-court, where the celebrated Dean Swift was born. The houses here are of great antiquity ; but that in which the witty ecclesiastic first saw the light is said to be no longer standing. Returning to Castle-street, and keeping to the left, the tourist soon arrives at Christ Church Cathedral, a building which, by the opening of Lord Kdward-street, has become visible from Dame-street. This is the most ancient portion of Dublin, and the Cathedral is said to occupy the site of a fortress erected by the Northmen in the ninth century, and from which (as is related in our Annals) these foreigners made many a plundering excursion into the country. During the progress of excavations made for the purpose of deepening the sewers in Christ-church- place, a very singular collection of antiquities, be¬ longing to the Danish period, and probably to their people, was discovered ; they consisted of knives, 84 what’s to be seen in Dublin. arrow-heads, pins, combs, carved bones, coins, be¬ sides many other articles, the whole of which were collected and saved from destruction by Mr. James Underwood,—a collector of antiquities, to whom our Museums, both public and private, are indebted for many of their most interesting specimens. The great majority of these relics were subsequently purchased by the Royal Irish Academy, and now form a portion of the collection of that learned body. CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL, situated in the heart of the ancient cit)s owes its foundation to Sitricus, the son of Aulaffe, King of the Ostmen of Dublin, and Donat, the Danish Archbishop, about the year 1038. The foundation was for Secular Canons ; but, about the year 1163, Laurence O’Toole, Archbishop of Dublin, changed the Secular Canons into Canons Regular of the Order of Arras. The Church was enlarged about the year 1175 by the above-mentioned Archbishop, Richard Strongbow, Earl of Strigul, Robert Fitz Stephens, and Raymond Le Gros, who are recorded to have built the choir, the steeple, and two chapels. The prior was a spiritual peer in Parliament until the year 1541, when Henry VIII. converted the priory and convent of the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity into a deanery and chapter. CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL. 85 This noble and ancient edifice was completely restored in 1878 through the munificence of Mr. Henry Roe, D.L. The cost has been estimated at little short of a quarter of a million of money. The building consists of a nave and choir, with transepts; a massive square tower rising from the intersection. The northern wall of the nave had for many years an inclination outwards, and this peculiarity was reproduced at considerable trouble and expense in the recent restoration. The chancel screen, an * A view of this Cathedral as restored will be found as Frontispiece Illustration. 86 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. elegant structure of five arches, gave rise to a long controversial discussion in the General Synod, some members of that body warmly advocating its re¬ moval upon the ground that it was non-Protestant in its character. A similar objection was made to the east window, which represents the Crucifixion. All the principal windows are of stained glass; their designs are fully explained in a printed paper which may be obtained by the visitor upon entering the Cathedral. When the old organ was being taken to pieces, the skeletons of a fugitive rat and its feline pursuer were discovered facing each other at the extremity of a horizontal pipe ; and this curious zoological group is still on view. Most of the monuments have been removed to the crypt ; but of those which have been retained upon the higher level, the most ancient and interesting is that of Richard Strongbow. It is situated against the southern wall, and surmounted by a quaint inscrip¬ tion, as follows :— THIS : AVNCYENT : MONVMENT ; OF : RYCHARD : STRANG- BOWE : CALLED : COMES : STRANGVLENESIS : LORD : OF : CHEPSTO : AND : OGNY : THE ; FYRST : AND : PRINCIPAL : INVADER : OF : IRLAND : 1169 : QVI : OBIIT : 1177 : THE : MONVMENT : WAS : BROCKEN : BY : THE : FALL : OF : THE : ROFF : AND : BODYE : OF : CHRISTES : CHVRCH : IN : AN : 1562 : AND : SET : UP : AGAYNE : AT : THE : CHARGYS : OF : THE : RIGHT : HONORABLE : S’* : HENERI : SYDNEY : KNYGHT : OF : THE : NOBLE : ORDER : L : PRESIDENT : OF : WAILES : L : DEPVTY : OF ; IRLAND : I570. STRONGBOW’S MONUMENT. 87 In immediate connection with the monninent of Strongbow is a small tomb, presenting a figure which has been apparently cut in two. There is an old tradition, generally rejected, but which will bear repeating, that this figure represents Strongbow’s son, who, as the story goes, was at one blow of a sword cut in two by his father, for having inglo- riously fled from battle. The monument of Eva, the wife of Strongbow, is to be found in St. Laurence O’Toole’s chapel, a small chamber opening off the South transept. At the opposite side of same transept is an elaborately sculptured monument of Lord Kildare (1743). There are numerous monuments in the crypt; amongst others, one to Nathaniel Sneyd, an opulent merchant of Dublin, who, in the year 1833, was shot 88 what’s to be seen in Dublin. by the hand of a maniac, in Westmoreland-street; one to Lieutenant John Crauford Smith, of the Bombay artillery ; one to Samuel Auchmuty; and one, with a Latin inscrip¬ tion by Bishop Berkeley,to Thomas Prior. A beautiful monument, crowned by a figure in white marble, rep¬ resenting an orphan girl in tears, was erected by the citizens of Dublin to Tho¬ mas Abbott, one of the truest philanthropists of the day. There are also monuments of Lord Chan¬ cellor Bowes, Dr. Ellis, and Lord Lifford. MONUMENT TO THOS. PRIOR. The choir, which is elaborately adorned and fur¬ nished, presents many features of architectural interest; a magnificent organ occupies a large portion of the North transept. Near the East win¬ dow may be seen some of the old tiles, which were discovered during the restoration. The whole Cathedral is now paved with flooring of similar character. The bells in the tower, thirteen in num¬ ber, weigh ten tons, and play tunes automatically CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL. 89 once every three hours. There are, at present, twenty-eight tunes in all, which are so arranged, that, although secular airs occur upon some week-days, sacred melo¬ dies alone are played on Sundays. There are full Cathe¬ dral choral services in this church on Sundays, at III and 4 o’clock. The choir comprises some of the best vocalists in Dublin. Choral services are performed daily at II and 3. Connected with the Cathedral by a handsome Gothic bridge, which crosses St. Michael’s Hill, is the Synod Hall, presented to the Church of Ireland by Mr. Roe, the restorer of the Cathe¬ dral. During the Session of the General Synod in Bowes’ monument. LORD LIFFORD'S MONUMENT. G 90 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. April or May, visitors are admitted to the Strangers’ Gallery, upon an order from a Member of the Synod. The Hall is similarly used by minor Synods in the autumn. Anyone desirous of viewing the building can obtain access thereto, upon application at the door facing the Cathedral. A walk of a very few minutes, by Bride-street, will bring the tourist to Patrick’s Close, a portion of Dublin which would be seldom visited but for the Cathedral—a source of attraction to many, and which will amply repay a visit from the lover of the picturesque, the architectural antiquary, or the mere sight-seeker. The Cathedral, which was in 1865 completely restored through the munificence of the late Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, Bart., is said to have been originally founded by St. Patrick ; but the present building dates from about the year 1190, when John Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, demolished the older church. The whole of the building, with the exception of the tower, built in 1364, displays the architectural peculiarities of the close of the twelfth century. It thus possesses the rare merit of being in one uniform style—a circumstance which adds greatly to the beauty of that portion of the interior which has of late been so admirably restored. The whole of the edifice is 300 feet long by 80 in breadth ; of which ST. Patrick’s cathedral. 91 space the nave occupies 130 feet, the choir 90, and St. Mary’s Chapel (or Chapter House), 55. The transept measures 157 feet in length. The nave is separated from the side aisles by ranges of first- pointed arches, of plain but elegant design. The summit of the spire is 221 feet from the ground. ST. Patrick’s cathedral before restoration. The banners of the Knights of St. Patrick hang at a considerable elevation over the arches of the choir, and have a pleasing effect. The organ, which was built simultaneously with the restoration of the Cathedral, contains about three thousand pipes. Through the liberality of the late Dean Pakenham, aided by the subscriptions of a few patriotic indivi- 92 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN duals, the choir was most successfully restored, and since that time, the late Sir Benjamin Guinness completely restored the remainder of the Cathedral, PRESENT VIEW OF ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL FROM GUINNESS STREET. rendering it one of the most chaste and elegant examples to be found in the kingdom, of that glorious period of pointed architecture, the close of ST. Patrick’s cathedral. 93 the twelfth century. The unsightly excrescences of galleries and pews, by which the light and elegant arches leading to the side aisles had been filled up, were removed, and the floor has been lowered to the ancient level. It would be out of place here to enter into a very minute description of the details of this very elegant structure ; suffice it to say, that the capitals and other ornamental portions of the work will bear comparison with the finest examples in England or upon the Continent. The total cost of this restoration amounted to not less than ;^i5o,ooo. There are in the Cathedral magnificent windows of rich stained glass. That which will strike the visitor most, is the East window in St. Mary’s Chapel (Hon. Dean Pakenham). The North transept is adorned with a window in memory of the men of the i8th (Royal Irish) Regiment who fell at Sebas¬ topol. In the South aisle are handsome windows in honour of Sir James Stevenson, and the com¬ poser, Balfe. Amongst the many monuments to be seen in the Cathedral, the most interesting are two plain marble slabs, placed over the entrance to the robing-room ; the one marking the last resting-place of the cele¬ brated Dean Swift, the other that of Mrs. Hester Johnston, better known as Stella. At the side of Swift’s monument is his bust by Cunningham, which 94 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. is considered a good likeness. “ It is,” writes Walsh, “ a gift of J. J. Faulkner, Esq., nephew and suc¬ cessor to Alderman John Faulkner, Swift’s book¬ seller, and the original publisher of most of his works.” Our readers will be interested by a small tablet in white marble, placed in the side aisle of the southern transept, and bearing the following inscription :— “ Here lieth the body of Alexander M‘Gee, servant to Dr. Swift, Dean of St. Patrick’s. His grateful master caused this monument to be erected in memory of his discretion, fidelity, and diligence, in that humble station. Obiit Mar. 24, 1721, aetat. 29.” The handsome stone pulpit was specially erected in 1864, by the munificent restorer of the Cathedral, in memory of the late Dean Pakenham. In the South transept, is a marble figure in a recumbent posture, and representing the late Archbishop Whately clad in his episcopal robes. The monument of Michael Tregury, Archbishop of Dublin, is situated near the southern entrance. The Bishop is represented in his full pontifical habit, with his pastoral staff in his hand, sur¬ mounted by a crucifix. This is believed to be the oldest monument in the place. In the south choir aisle are three very perfect brasses, which, though rather late in style, are remarkable as being the ST. Patrick’s cathedral. 95 only monuments of the kind now remaining in Ireland. The Cathedral originally contained several more ; and a large slab of stone, impressed with the figure of a Bishop, surmounted by a very elaborate canopy, may still be seen, though the brass which filled up the incised lines has been removed. The other monuments, though not numerous, are of considerable interest. An important one is that erected in 1631, in memory of Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork, at the south-west entrance; as also one to the memory of Captain Boyd, r.n., who was drowned at Kingstown ; and a plain slab of black marble in the northern transept, raised over the celebrated Duke Schomberg, who was killed at the Boyne in 1690. During some repairs in the Cathedral, the Duke’s skull was some years ago discovered in a good state of preservation. It appears that the bullet by which the Duke was killed entered from behind, passing out on the opposite side of tlie head. Over Schomberg’s monument is suspended by a chain a cannon ball, by which Lord Loftus was killed at the siege of Limerick, in 1691. A handsome white marble statue of Lord Chief Justice Whiteside has lately been added ; also one of Archbishop Trench. The tablets commemorating the poets, Lover and Wolfe, are also deserving of mention. The tower contains ten large bells and a valuable g 6 what’s to be seen in Dublin. clock, with machinery for striking the hours, and chiming tunes at intervals. Outside the Cathedral near the south-west porch is a bronze statue of Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, who is represented in a sitting posture. There is choral service in St. Patrick’s Cathedral daily at lo a.m. and 4 p.m., and on Sundays at a.m. and 3 p.m. The last-named is the principal service in the week, and exceptional care is bestowed upon the selection and performance of the anthems and other musical features of such a full choral service as has rendered St. Patrick’s Cathedral justly celebrated. Sir Robert Stewart, Mus. D., the celebrated composer and executant, usually presides at the organ upon these occasions. An admirable descriptive handbook to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, written by the Rev. Canon I.eeper, D.D., is published by Messrs. Hodges, Figgis, & Co., 104 Grafton-street, and is on sale at the Cathedral. Passing through Peter-street, to the left, we reach the Convent of the Caked Carmelites in Whitefriar- street. On the exterior, the building, though of great size, does not present any striking architec¬ tural feature. The interior, however, is very grand, consisting of a great nave, 200 feet in length, by 34 in width. A colossal statue, in oak, of the Virgin, placed near the high altar, may be looked upon as one of the finest mediaeval pieces of sculpture in CARMELITE CONVENT. 97 Europe. This wonderful relic of ancient art is said to have belonged originally to St. Mary s Abbey, from which it was removed for the purpose of being burned, shortly after the suppression of monasteries. The person, however, charged with the execution of the sentence, appears to have had some lingering regard for what had been for ages considered a wonderful and sacred image. He is stated to have burned only the back portion of the figure, and to have preserved the front, as it remains, by burying the trunk face downwards, leaving visible only what appeared to be a large hollowed block of oak, which was long used as a horse-trough. We now come to Aungier-street, which, though THE BIRTH-PLACE OF MOORE, NO. 12 AUNGIER-STREET. 98 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. one of the less important thoroughfares of the city, and unpossessed of any public building, with the exception of St. Peter’s Church, will long be visited as a locality rendered classic through its connection with the early history of one of the greatest poets of modern times. In No. 12 of this street—a plain, quaint-looking house, having a bust of the Poet in a niche in the front, and now, as at the time of the Poet’s birth, used as a grocery establishment— Thomas Moore first saw the light. From Aungier-street we proceed by York-street, to St. Stephen’s-green Park. This handsome enclo¬ sure, of rectangular shape, contains about 22 acres of ground, tastefully laid out and ornamented ; a picturesque piece of water extends along the north side ; it is supplied by an artificial cascade, and well stocked with water-fowl of various kinds. In the centre of the park stands an equestrian statue of George II., close to which are two ornamental foun¬ tains. At the north side is a bronze statue of Lord Eglinton, twice Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. This park was thrown open to the public in the year 188c, through the exertions and at the expense of Lord Ardilaun, who, as Sir Arthur Guinness, was three times elected M.P. for the City of Dublin in the Conservative interest. To the right is Harcourt- street, containing the newly-founded (1870) High School of Erasmus Smith, and the Terminus of the COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 99 Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford Railway. At the junction of St. Stephen’s-green with York-st. stands THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, a fine building of mountain granite, two stories in height, and presenting a fa9ade, the pediment of which is decorated with colossal statues, representing Minerva supporting Esculapius and Hygeia. The cost of the building, which was commenced in 1805, exceeded _;,^35,ooo. A new Dissecting-room and new Physiological Laboratories were added in 1884 ; also special rooms for the instruction of lady students. Besides the Board-room, the Examination Hall, and the Library, the building contains three Museums, which are open to the public, and deserve a visit. Amongst the objects of interest preserved here, is an exceedingly well-preserved Peruvian mummy, the first, we believe, ever brought to this country ; and a collection of very fine preparations in wax, repre¬ senting the human body, the gift of the Duke of Northumberland. Passing round to the east side of St. Stephen’s- green, we arrive at a plain but extensive building, the centre of brick, and the wings, which are of later date, of stucco work. This is THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF SCIENCE, formerly the Museum of Irish Industry, 51 St. Stephen’s-green, East. This important and truly lOO what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. national Institution was originally founded by Her Majesty’s Government, for the purpose of exhibiting and examining all the materials and sources of in¬ dustry which are to be found in Ireland, and giving a more definite and active industrial tendency to education and opinion. The buildings of the College consist of the exten¬ sive front to St. Stephen’s-green, with lateral galleries extending nearly to Ely-place, and connected by Preparation Rooms and Theatre, for educational purposes, lectures, &c. There are two stories of galleries, the lower devoted to building materials, decorations, metallurgy, minerals, vitreous and cera¬ mic manufactures, &c. ; the upper to the manufac¬ tures of organic origin, as those from animal and vegetable fibre, and other materials ; fisheries ; the objects of Natural History belonging to industry, &c. 'Fhe Palaeontological and other collections of the Geological Survey are deposited in this Museum, and are on a very extensive scale. The College of Science contains also Chemical Laboratories, fitted up in the most complete manner, in which inquiries are carried on, and analyses made, in all questions of public importance to industry. Among the important results of this branch of the College have been the Reports upon the manufac¬ ture of sugar from beet, and the manufacture of various products for candles, &c., from distilling COLLEGE OF SCIENCE. lot peat. Important inquiries have also been made upon materials for porcelain manufacture in Ireland ; and busts have been formed from the materials so indicated. Another important branch of this Institution is the construction of Maps representing the nature of the agricultural soils in the several counties of Ire¬ land, and also the distribution of the financial values of the land, represented by coloured maps, based on Sir R. Griffith’s official valuation. These maps afford the most valuable information to parties about purchasing property in Ireland, and may be seen by reference to the Map Office, in the College, where visitors can receive special information. The main object of this College is, of courge, to exhibit materials and products available for manu¬ facture in Ireland; but to render that information more satisfactory, the Irish collections are illus¬ trated and contrasted, where necessary, with similar materials and products of foreign or British origin, and thus one of the most interesting aspects of the Museum arises from the collections being arranged so as to exhibit for each branch of industry the his¬ tory of its progress, and the scientific theory of its processes. By this means the entire Exposition is rendered truly educational and practical. The buildings and galleries were designed by Mr. George Papworth, architect, and are considered 102 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. as among the most perfect specimens of museum architecture. The entrance-hall is fitted up as a Cabinet of Irish Marbles, the exceeding beauty and variety of which will not fail to strike the visitor. This arrangement of marbles is continued by porches, door-cases, and slabs, into the Gallery allocated to ornamental building materials, where the building itself, the doors, windows, pillars, &c., are made to serve as illustrations and specimens of the industrial collections which the Gallery serves to contain. The Royal College of Science is now under the superintendence of a Dean of Faculty and a staff of eleven Professors in the various branches of Science. Its object is to supply a complete course of instruc¬ tion in Science applied to Industrial Arts. There are four Royal Scholarships and nine Royal Exhibi¬ tions open to students of this College, which are competed for at the annual examinations. There is likewise an extensive and valuable Scientific Library attached to the College, to which some very important additions are annually made. The work of arranging and classifying has during the past few years been effected by the untiring energy of the Librarian, Mons. Alphonse Gages, Chev. L.H. Altogether this Institution is one of the most worthy of attention in Dublin, whether from the interest of its contents, or the important purposes of practical utility for which it has been founded. THE ROYAL UNIVERSITY. 10 THE ROYAL UNIVERSITY. At the south-eastern corner of Stephen’s-green, in Earlsfort-terrace, on the ground formerly known as the Coburg Gardens, is situated the handsome and extensive structure designed by Alfred G. Jones, Esq., an eminent architect of this city. This building, and the Palace once adjoining, but now standing in Battersea Park, London, were built in 1865, and inaugurated by an International Exhi¬ bition. The premises are very extensive, and contain, in addition to a number of minor apartments, one of the largest Concert Halls in the kingdom, capable of seating over 3,000 people ; also a Lecture Theatre of considerable dimensions, with practice rooms, &c. Two Galleries for pictures, a Museum with lecture rooms, dissecting rooms, chemical laboratories, and special departments for the studies of electricity and engineering, have recently been added ; also a tower of considerable height, containing a good chime of bells, and a four-faced clock, which is illuminated at night, and might have been rendered a real boon to the citizens had it been placed in the topmost story of the tower instead of in the second. Facing these University buildings in Earlsfort- terrace is ALEXANDRA COLLEGE, Founded in 1866 for the more advanced education 104 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. of young ladies. The Patroness is H. R. H. the Princess of Wales, and there is a very distinguished body of 27 Professors and Examiners in the various branches of Science, Language, Literature, and Art. The College is governed by a visitor (His Grace the Archbishop of Dublin) and a council of twenty members, amongst whom are two Bishops, two Judges, the Vice-Provost and several Fellows of Trinity College. Three classes of certificates are granted for proficiency in any subject after six terms (two years) have been passed in preliminary study. The Examinations for these certificates are held in June and December. Under the management of the Resident Lady Principal, this Institution has been attended with marked success. NASSAU STREET. lOS FOURTH TOUR. St. Patrick’s Well—Royal Dublin Society—Dargan’s Statue— Prince Consort Memorial—Royal Irish Academy—National Gallery and Museum — Duke of Wellington’s Birth-place. We have already visited the northern, western, and southern portions of the city; the south-eastern quarter alone remains to be seen. We suppose our reader, as usual, to start from the neighbourhood of Sackville-street ; he will proceed by Westmoreland- street and the College to Nassau-street, a very busy, thriving thoroughfare, leading directly from the centre of the city to the more aristocratic districts on the south-eastern side, which correspond to the London West-end. But one side of Nassau-street is occupied by houses ; the College Park, which we have already noticed, bounding it to the north, and with the new squares and buildings of the College, presenting a very pleasing view. In Nassau-place (off Nassau-street) is the Dublin branch of the famous mineral water factory belonging nominally to a firm known as Messrs. Cantrell and Cochrane, but being in reality the property of Alderman Sir Henry Cochrane, D.L., who possesses an equally ex¬ tensive and thriving establishment in Belfast. The H io6 what’s to be seen in Dublin. Dublin factory is well worth a visit. Within its walls is situated the celebrated spring known as St. Patrick’s Well, the resources of which are utilized in the manufactures here carried on. Much of the machinery is novel and interesting. Four machines, in particular, can fill and cork in one day about 15,000 bottles each ; besides a dozen other machines, disposing of 2,400 each daily. The works have capacity for turning out 160,000 bottles a day when the state of trade requires. Leinster-street, a con¬ tinuation of Nassau-street, leads us to Merrion-square, an enclosure beautifully planted with a variety of ornamental shrubs and trees, and long considered as the Belgravia of Dublin. On the western side of Merrion-square, from which it is separated only by a lawn, stands Leinster House, on one side of which is the National Gallery, with a bronze statue to Wm. Dargan, appropriately placed where the Exhibition of 1853 was erected at his sole expense, and on the other the Museum, both buildings of noble propor¬ tions, and open to the public free of charge. The collections of national portraits and other works of art, and of curiosities, natural and manufactured, in these two buildings respectively, will amply repay inspection. A bronze statue of the late Prince Consort occupies the centre of the lawn. Round the base of the monument are four bronze figures representing respectively. Art, Science, Industry, and Agriculture. PRINCE CONSORT MEMORIAL. 107 The whole memorial was designed and erected by Foley, and is said to form one of the most elegant masterpieces of that eminent sculptor. The house was formerly the princely residence of the Dukes of Leinster, and is at present occupied by the Science and Art Department and the Royal Dublin Society, for the encouragement of high-class agriculture, the improvement of manufactures, and for other artistic and scientific purposes. The Royal Dublin Society has been described as possessing the undoubted merit of being the father of all the similar Societies now existing in Europe. The foundation dates from 1731, since which time its career of usefulness has never ceased. The chief entrance is from Kildare-street, through a finely proportioned gateway, leading to a spacious courtyard immediately opposite the western front of the building. Besides an admirably conducted and extensive Library, the premises contain rooms now occupied as a Government School of Design, where instruction in painting, sculpture, architecture, and other branches of the fine arts, is afforded to the public of both sexes, at a nominal charge. The Art Schools of the Society, almost from the foun¬ dation, had attracted a large number of pupils, many of whom subsequently became eminent. The Government School of Design has been but en¬ grafted upon the older schools of the Society. loS what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Upon entering the Leinster House from the Kil- dare-street side, the visitor is immediately struck with the grandeur of the Hall, a spacious and very lofty apartment, decorated with several fine works of sculpture, the chief of which is a colossal statue in Carrara marble, twelve feet high, of George IV. The work is by Behnes, formerly a pupil of the Society, and finished by the late Constantine Panormo, for many years Master of the School of Modelling and Sculpture. There are, besides, several groups of figures, admirably executed by former pupils of the school: amongst them, Adam and Eve, by Gallagher ; Youth crossing the stream, by Foley ; Caractacus and Theseus and Hippoda- mia, by Panormo. A spacious double staircase leads from the Hall to the Library. The Museum in the new building is a rich depository for objects relating to Geological Science, and likewise in the depart¬ ments of Ornithology, Entomology, and Conchology ; and there are some very rare and interesting speci¬ mens of the weapons and the ornaments used by the ancient Irish—amongst the rest, a magnificent brooch of the kind which fashion is now recalling into general use. It is open to the public every day free from ii until 5 p.m., or dusk, and on Tuesday and Thursday evenings, from 7 to 10. Among the objects of interest contained in the Museum, one of the most remarkable is a splendid and very per- ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY. I09 feet skeleton of the fossil giant deer of Ireland; there is also a fine collection of Etruscan vases and models of various descriptions. The new buildings on the Kildare-street side of Leinster House are to be respectively the Museum of Science and Art and the National Library of Ireland. They were designed by Mr. Thomas N. Deane, R.H.A., of Dublin. The foundation stone was laid on loth April, 1885, by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Each building is fifty feet in height and two hundred in length. The Museum building (that on the visitor’s right as he faces Leinster House) is square, and the Library is in width one hundred and seven feet. The original estimate—which did not include fittings—contemplated an expenditure of 10,000 upon the joint work ; but it now ap¬ pears probable that the total Government grant required for the completion of the buildings will not be less than ^^150,000. The Society have built and opened in the neigh¬ bourhood of Ball’s Bridge, in the Pembroke Town¬ ship, a spacious and handsome building, devoted to agricultural exhibitions, cattle shows, athletic sports, cycling contests, &c. The National Gallery, which contains a fine collection of paintings, is open to the public free on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, and on Thursday and Friday at a charge of sixpence. no what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. The Library, which is open to the public from lo a.m. to lo p.m. upon the introduction of a member, contains a most extensive and valuable collection of works, both British and Foreign. In Upper Merrion-street, close to the National Gallery and the Museum, is situated Mornington House (No. 24), in which the great Duke of Wel¬ lington was born. The house is now used as the public offices of a department of the Irish Land Commission. ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY. This National Institution, incorporated by Royal Charter for the encouragement of scientific, literary, and archaeological studies, celebrated its centenary in 1886. Its premises are situate in Dawson-street, near the Mansion House, and the antiquary will find a rich field for inquiry in the unequalled collec¬ tion of Celtic antiquities deposited in a hall devoted expressly to their display. Here, in contrast with the wonders of modern civilization, may be seen the weapons, personal ornaments, and implements of a people who inhabited these islands long before the dawn of Christianity—the stone axes and weapons of flint, the necklaces and ornaments of shell and bone, of a people in the earliest stage of civilization. The astonishing display of weapons and other articles in bronze, of a pre-historic period, com- ROVAL IRISH ACADEMY. I 11 FLINT ARROW-HEADS, A STONE HAMMER, AND A STONE AXE. prised in the collection exhibited by the Royal Irish Academy, will afford matter for the most in¬ teresting consideration of all who would study the progress of manufactures in the British Isles. Of a later period, the exquisitely wrought shrines and croziers of the early Irish Church afford evi¬ dence of the great skill attained by the Irish in more of the arts than one, during a period too gene¬ rally looked upon as unenlightened and barbarous in the extreme. Attached to the principal room of the museum is a smaller fire-proof apartment, known as the Strong Room, in which are deposited some of the most valuable relics. Here may be seen a bell supposed to have belonged to St. Patrick ; also its cover or shrine, an interesting specimen of the gold¬ smith’s art, as understood in the eleventh century. The bell and its shrine cost the Academy ^500, I 12 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. BRONZE SWORD, DAGGER, CELTS, AND SPEAR-HEADS. Here is also the far-famed Tara brooch, besides other minor ornaments of similar shape. The Ardagh chalice, with its remarkable inscription, is another very valuable relic ; and a copy of the Gos¬ pels, said to have belonged to St. Patrick in the fifth century, cannot fail to excite interest. The cross of Cong, the gem of the Academy collection, a work now in its eighth century of existence, would in itself be sufficient to prove the high position held by Irish artificers in the arts of design and metal¬ lurgy previous to the arrival in Ireland of the Anglo- Norman adventurers, who seem to have heralded a period of gradual decay in all the arts—except per¬ haps music—for which our countrymen had been pre-eminently distinguished. This sumptuous relic, as inscriptions in Irish, and Latin in the Irish cha- ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY. I 13 racter, extending round its sides, testify, was made at Cong by native workmen in the early part of the twelfth century, and in the reign of Turlogh, father of Roderick O’Conor, the last monarch of Ireland. It is supposed to contain a portion of the true cross, sent as a present to the monarch Turlogh by Pope Pascal II. There is also in the Strong Room a splendid collection of ancient gold ornaments and Irish manuscripts. A descriptive catalogue of the treasures contained in the museum has been com¬ piled by Sir William Wilde, who brought to bear upon it all the resources of a mind richly stored with the archaeological lore, not only of Ireland, but also of the other northern nations of Europe. The spe¬ cimens may be classed into three divisions, referring to the periods when it has been supposed the articles were used : viz., the Stone Age, embracing articles of flint and bone, and which are supposed to have been manufactured by a people who had no knowledge of metal;—the Bronze Age, including the great ma¬ jority of the articles exhibited, the leaf-shaped swords, the spear-heads, celts, &c., &c.;—and lastly, the Age of Iron, which commenced when bronze had ceased to be generally used, and which may be considered to extend down to the twelfth century. The museum is chiefly maintained by an annual grant of j£$oo, of which sum .;^ioo is devoted to 114 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. the purchase of Treasure Trove. The Academy possesses a large and interesting collection of coins ; and the library of the poet Moore, which occupies a separate room, and is kept as nearly as possible as it was during his lifetime, cannot fail to attract attention. The large library contains many interest¬ ing manuscripts, besides autograph letters from eminent personages, including one which embodies the original draft of Wolfe’s “Burial of Sir John Moore.” The Museum in the basement story or crypt is 145 feet in length, and contains the most bulky objects in the archeological collection. There are several ancient canoes ; one—almost perfect, and the largest known specimen—is formed of a single tree, and measures 42 feet. A curious illustration of the preservative power of peat mould is afforded by a human body which has resisted decay, and is believed—the depth at which it was discovered being taken into account—to have lain undisturbed for centuries. There is a very ancient breech-loading cannon, resembling in a marked way its more for¬ midable successors. There are also a number of ecclesiastical and other carvings, early inscriptions— including many in the Ogham character—and some curious grotesques of doubtful meaning. The treasure-trove regulations protect against claims from the Crown persons who sell or present antiqui¬ ties to the Academy. Visitors are admitted free ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY. II 5 daily, without introduction, from 12 to 4, and on the evenings of Tuesdays and Fridays from 7 to 9. A convenient hand-book to the museum may be ob¬ tained therein, price twopence. Sir William Wilde’s catalogue is also kept there, and may be referred to by the visitor. The readers who shall have accompanied us thus far will have seen nearly all that is generally worthy of notice in our fair city. That we have not included in our tours some of the great public hospitals for which Dublin has long been famous, need not excite surprise ; we have written for tourists, and would not wish to bring our readers, to whom time may be valuable, from the routes we had selected as likely to afford the greatest amount of information. It will perhaps be sufficient to say that Dublin is as well supplied with institutions for the relief of the sick poor as any city in the British Isles; and we have only to regret that of late years the grants which some of these important establishments have long enjoyed have been menaced by the advocates of centralization. THE COUNTRY AND SUBURBS. The Phoenix Park—Terminus of Great Southern and Western Railway—Royal Hospital at Kilmainham—Bully’s Acre— Royal -Military Infirmary—The Wellington Testimonial— The People’s Garden—Zoological Gardens—The Viceregal Lodge—Phoenix Column—The Fifteen Acres—The Maga¬ zine—Hibernian Soldiers’ School—Mountjoy Barrack— Strawberry Beds—Chapelizod. 'HERE are few cities in the British Islands the 1 environs of which display scenes so varied, so picturesque, and, we may add, so historically inte¬ resting, as the neighbourhood of Dublin can present. A journey of a little more than an hour, or, it may be, of even half that time, suffices to lead from the dust and noise of the city to scenery of almost every class, from the wild heights and solitudes of Howth to the rich pastoral valleys of the Liffey and Boyne; from the baronial demesnes of Malahide and Howth, with their woods and deer, their broad rich meadows and lowing herds, to the time-hallowed monuments which, though now in ruin, still proudly attest the religious zeal and munificence of our ancestors. PHCENIX PARK. ”7 The Phoenix Park, situated to the north-western side of Dublin, is a splendid enclosure, diversified by- hill and hollow, and tastefully planted with shrubs and forest trees. To view the Park and the interest¬ ing scenery of the valley of the Liffey will occupy almost an entire day. We recommend the tourist to engage a car by the day, which he may do, upon agreement with the driver, for fifteen or twenty shillings. For this excursion, and also for number four, the tourist will do well to bring his luncheon with him. By a judicious economy of time, some of the principal sights enumerated in the fourth excur¬ sion might be visited, in conjunction with those referred to "in the present chapter. Lucan, Leixlip, and the Falls of the Liffey (known as “ the Salmon Leap”), if visited after the Strawberry Beds, will not add more than about eight or nine miles to the drive. (Particulars concerning this locality will be found in “ excursion the fourth.”) In commencing his first suburban trip, the tourist should proceed to the King’s Bridge, noticed in a former chapter, when he will have an opportunity of viewing the magnifi¬ cent Terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway. He should proceed thence to the Royal Hospital at Kilmainham, an establishment founded in 1679, by Charles IL, as his Royal Letter states, for “ such aged and maimed officers and soldiers as shall at any time be dismissed out of our army as Il8 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. unserviceable men, and for making provision for their future maintenance, conceiving it unreasonable that such persons who have faithfully served in our army, whilst their health and strength continued, should, when by age, wounds, or other infirmities, they are disabled from serving us any longer, be discharged without any care to be taken for their subsistence.” The buildings of the Hospital occupy the site of the Abbey of Kilmaignend, a place of very considerable note in the early ecclesiastical history of Ireland, and to which reference is often made in the Annals of the Four Masters. In 1680, the chapel and some offices of the ancient Priory still remained, and their site was fixed upon by the committee for the erection of the present Hospital as the most eligible which the neighbourhood of Dublin afforded. The expense of the building, which is after designs by Sir Christopher Wren, was “defrayed by the deduction of sixpence in the pound cut off the pay of all officers and soldiers, and other persons on the military list of the establishment of this kingdom.” Thus was the Royal Hospital founded, and for many years supported ; but subse¬ quently, the deduction from the soldiers’ pay was discontinued, and the establishment was placed as nearly as possible upon the same footing as the Chelsea Hospital. The edifice forms a rectangle of 306 by 288 feet. ROYAL HOSPITAL. ik; enclosing an area of 210 feet square. In the centre of each of the four sides is an arched gateway, leading to the inner quadrangle. The principal point facing the north is built of rough stone, and dis¬ plays in its centre a pediment supported by four Corinthian pilasters, over which rises a tower of two stories, furnished with a clock with four dial plates. A graceful octagonal dome terminates the whole. The great dining-hall occupies the centre of the northern front, between the chapel on the east and the Governor’s house on the west; it is loc feet long, by 45 wide ; the lower part of the wall is wainscoted, and decorated with firelocks, bayonets, and other military weapons, ornamentally disposed. The upper plan is of plain plaster, and ornamented on three sides with 22 whole-length portraits ; among which is one of Charles 11 ., said to be by Kneller. The Chapel, a very elegant apartment, 86 feet long by 36 wide, is chiefly constructed of stones which were used in the church of the ancient Priory. Its altar-screen is considered a very remarkable piece of carving in oak. We should strongly recommend our readers to attend Divine Service here, which on Sundays takes place at eleven and three. The buildings of the establishment which remain to be noticed are the official residence of the Com¬ mander of the Forces in Ireland for the time being, the Deputy Governor’s House, and the Infirmary. 120 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. The latter is detached from the Hospital, and though a spacious and commodious structure, does not re¬ quire any particular description. A noble avenue, shaded with venerable trees, and terminating in a military gateway, which formerly stood at the south side of Bloody Bridge, leads from the Hospital in a westerly direction. Immediately upon the northern side of the avenue is the ancient burial-ground of Kilmainham, better known as “ Bully’s Acre.” In former times this had the dis¬ tinction of being the greatest and most popular ceme¬ tery attached to Dublin, and great was the public outcry, when, shortly after the visitation of cholera in 1830, further interments within its bounds'were prohibited. In connection with Bully’s Acre a strange story is told of a medical student who with others was engaged in stealing a body for purposes of dissection. Being surprised by the indignant neighbours, and deserted by his companions, he took refuge in the open grave, and only escaped being buried alive by clothing himself in a winding- sheet and pretending to be a ghost. Nearly in the centre of the enclosure stands the shaft of an ex¬ ceedingly ancient stone cross, supposed to be the identical monument erected here over the remains of Murchad (son of the famous Brian Boroihme), who was killed in 1014 at the Battle of Clontarf. His father, under whose leadership the Irish de- THE PHCENIX PARK. I2I feated the Danish invaders upon that occasion, was assassinated in his tent on the evening of the victory. Certain it is, that many of the victors and vanquished in that memorable engagement lie here side by side ; and some years ago the labourers en gaged in making a grave near the base of the stone cross discovered an iron sword and some coins of a period corresponding with the date of that famous battle. Close to this spot is the now famous Kil- mainham Jail, the County Dublin Bridewell. Here Mr. Parnell and other Members of Parliament were imprisoned as “ Suspects ” by Mr. Gladstone’s Government in i88i and 1882. And here in 1883, Earl Spencer being Lord Lieutenant, five of the “ Irish Invincibles,” as these conspirators called themselves, suffered the extreme penalty of the law for the Phoenix Park murders. Leaving Kilmainham, we advise the tourist to return to the King’s Bridge, and enter THE PHOENIX PARK by the chief gate facing Barrack-street. The view which almost immediately presents itself is at once grand and impressive. To the left, nearly as far as the eye can reach, extends the rich, well-wooded country to the west of Dublin, closed in by a back¬ ground of mountains, seen from this point to the greatest advantage. To the right is the People’s I 122 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Garden, which has been laid out in a most artistic manner. In it is a statue to the late Lord Carlisle, who was twice Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. Stand¬ ing upon a gentle eminence, and separated from the People’s Garden by a ravine, is the Royal Military Infirmary, a handsome structure in granite, con¬ sisting of a centre and two wings, with a graceful clock tower. In front stands the Wellington Testi¬ monial, a huge quadrangular obelisk, 205 feet in height, rising from a pedestal, the panels of which are richly adorned with bas-reliefs in bronze, repre¬ senting events in the career of the great general. The figures, which from a little distance are dwarfed by the huge proportions of the obelisk, are in reality life-size. The sides of the monument are inscribed with the names of the various battles fought by the illustrious Duke. A magnificent equestrian statue of Lord Gough occupies a good position between the Wellington Testimonial and the People’s Park. Not far from the entrance to the Park are the Royal Irish Constabulary Barracks, the head-quar¬ ters of that force. Here all the recruits and cadets are drilled and exercised in the use of arms, just as in the army. THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, situated a little further on, afford a great attraction to the holiday folks of Dublin. They are admirably THE VICEREGAL LODGE. situated upon a beautifully undulating bank, taste¬ fully planted and laid out, rising from a fine sheet of water, well stocked with aquatic fowl. The space occupied by the Gardens is somewhat more than five acres. There is usually a very fine collection of ani¬ mals, though, owing to the dampness of the Irish climate, it is with much difficulty that specimens from some of the tropical countries are kept alive. The winter is particularly fatal to the Society’s monkeys, but new supplies are from time to time obtained. The greater carnivora are very abund¬ antly represented. Lion cubs are more successfully reared in these gardens than in any other such insti¬ tution in the world. The animals are fed daily at half-past three. As we trust the reader will visit these very beautiful Gardens, and see for himself, we shall not enter into a detailed description of their contents. The price of admission is, on week¬ days, one shilling, and on Sundays, for the benefit of the working-classes, after two o’clock, twopence. Continuing our drive by the main road, we pass the cricket grounds of the Civil Service and Phoenix Clubs, and soon gain a view of THE VICEREGAL LODGE, usually the residence of the Lord Lieutenant during his stay in Ireland. It is rather a plain building, viewed from any point, though the original structure 124 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. THE VICEREGAL LODGE. which was purchased by Government from the Earl of Leitrim in 1784, has been added to and beautified from time to time by various Lords Lieutenant. It was here that Her Majesty made her abode in 1849. The Chief Secretary and Under Secretary have each a lodge and demesne within the limits of the Park, but these are of little interest to the tourist. In the main road, exactly opposite to the Vice¬ regal Lodge, is the scene of the Phoenix Park mur¬ ders, perpetrated on May 6th, 1882. Lord Frederick Cavendish, the newly-appointed Chief Secretary, and Mr. Thomas H. Burke, were assassinated by a gang of desperadoes, who escaped the hands of justice for nearly a year. Eventually the entire horde was captured, and proved to be a body of men calling themselves “The Irish Invincibles.” Through the evidence of one of tneir number, James Carey, a Town Councillor, who turned in- FIFTEEN ACRES. ^^5 former, the five principals were hanged, and some twenty more sent into penal servitude. The Phoenix Column, situated in the centre at the junction of the four great avenues of the Park, was erected by Lord Chesterfield, when Lord Lieutenant, in 1745. From near this column a fine view may be had of the “FIFTEEN ACRES,” a beautifully level portion of the Park, comprising not fifteen acres only, but about two hundred. Re¬ views take place here on the Queen’s Birthday and at other suitable times. A little further on, crowning the summit of a gentle eminence, stands “The Magazine,” a strongly en¬ trenched fort, erected in 1735, as a depository for ammunition. It was to this work that the celebrated Dean Swift alluded in the following squib, written but shortly before his last melancholy illness :— “ Behold a proof of Irish sense ; Here Irish wit is seen— When nothing’s left that’s worth defence, We build a magazine. THE HIBERNIAN SCHOOL was originally incorporated in 1769, for the sons or orphan boys of soldiers in Ireland. They are here educated, maintained, and apprenticed, or should they prefer it, the pupils are, at a proper age. 126 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. transferred to the army. Besides the Chapel, which is occasionally used by the Viceregal family, there are a dining-hall, an infirmary, and a farm of about nineteen acres. The most beautiful portion of the Park lies be¬ tween the Phoenix Pillar and Knockmaroon Gate. About the end of May, or the beginning of June, nothing can exceed the richness of the scenery of a little glen situated about midway between the two points, and by which the road passes. The trees, which are nearly all hawthorn, are usually at that season covered with white and red blossoms. We have now arrived at Knockmaroon Gate, the extreme limit of the Park upon its western side. A little to the right is Mountjoy Barrack, the headquarters of the Ordnance Survey in Ireland, where a corps of draughtsmen, engravers, and other assistants, civil and military, is still kept up. We recommend the tourist to pass through Knockmaroon Gate, and visit the famous STRAWBERRY BEDS, which extend for about two miles along the north¬ ern bank of the Liffey, from which river they are separated by a road leading to Lucan, and affording for several miles a series of most delightful views. The banks upon which the fruit is cultivated, rise almost perpendicularly to the right. To the left is the river. STRAWBERRY BEDS. 127 with its opposite side clothed in masses of the darkest green, or spreading with meadows as rich and luxu¬ riant as any in the Green Isle. The neatly thatched cottages, with their pretty gardens, and roses or woodbine twining round their doorways, are kept by persons who live chiefly by the sale of straw¬ berries and cream during the months of June and July. They are greatly resorted to by the citizens of Dublin. Returning to Dublin by the Park, the lower road should be selected as affording a variety of most charming views of the valley of the Liffey, as also of the distant hills of Dublin and Wicklow. The little village of Chapelizod, with its ancient grey church towers, forms in itself a pretty picture. Close to the rear of the Hibernian School is a singu¬ lar monument, of an ante-historic period, discovered some forty years ago by workmen engaged in level¬ ling a hill by order of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. In removing the earth, several urns of baked clay were turned up, and subsequently the workmen came upon the tomb almost as it now stands, in the centre of the mound. Within the chamber thus brought to light were found two perfect male human skeletons, and also the tops of the thigh bones of another, and a single bone of an animal, supposed to have been a dog. A necklace of small 128 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. PAGAN TOMB. shells was found under each skull, and also a fibula of bone and a small flint arrow-head. All these articles are now in the Museum of the Royal Irish Academy. From Parkgate-street, through the villages of Chapelizod and Palmerstown, and on to the little town of Lucan, a distance of seven miles in all, run, about once an hour, the Steam Tramway Company’s trains, having First, Second, and Third Class accommodation. Notwithstanding frequent stoppages, the whole distance is accomplished in fifty minutes, the speed attained on the less frequented parts of the road being very considerable. The Lucan Sulphur Spa is much frequented by visitors, and possesses medicinal ingredients similar to those found in some of the Harrogate waters. HILL OF HOWTH. I 29 EXCURSION THE SECOND. The Hill of Howth—Howth Castle—Anecdote of Grana Uile— Abbey of Howth—Howth Harbour—Ireland’s Eye—The Bailey Rock—St. Fintan’s—Cromlech—Castle of Malahide— Abbey of Malahide—Round Tower of Swords—St. Dou- lough’s Church and Well. There is, we believe, no district in the neighbour¬ hood of Dublin of such rich and varied interest as Howth, and the adjoining country. Ben Edar, as the Hill was anciently called, has been already referred to in the beginning of this volume. We shall now give some detailed account of its beauties and points of interest, assuring the lover of nature that he will have a rich treat in a day spent in wandering among its glens, or in following the paths which lead along the picturesque cliffs by which the headland is environed. The distance of Howth from Dublin is nine miles. The tourist should take an early train from Amiens-street Terminus, as he will have much to see, and a good deal of ground to traverse. He may, on leaving the train, either walk or drive ; but to explore the beauties of the hill, we confidently recommend the adoption of the former what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. mode of progression. The excursion should be finished with the assistance of a car, which may be hired in the town of Howth at a moderate cost. The journey from Dublin occupies half an hour. The scenery upon either side of the line is full of interest, and of a character extremely varied. Once arrived at Howth, the excursionist should visit the Castle, the ancient seat of the St. Lawrence family.* It is one of the finest and most ancient of the baronial residences of Ireland, and consists of a long embat¬ tled structure with flanking towers. To the gene¬ rality of our readers, to whom time is an object, an inspection of the exterior of the edifice will be sufficient, as the apartments do not contain any great features of interest. In the hall are preserved the bells of the Abbey of Howth, a structure which we shall presently notice, and a sword certainly of considerable antiquity, said to have belonged to the founder of the family. Up to a late period it was usual, during the hour of dining in the Castle, to leave the main entrance open. It is said that the custom originated as follows :—In the reign of Queen Elizabeth there lived in the West of Ireland a famous chieftainess named Grana Uile. She was possessed of a large territory, and of castles to defend * For a handy guide to this interesting district, see “ A Day at Howth, byj. Huband Smith,” published by Hodges, Figgis, and Co., 104 Grafton-street. Price 6d. HOWTH CASTLE. I 3 I it by land, and of ships which forbade any hostile approach by sea. Her fame was so great, that Queen Elizabeth, who was herself, by all accounts, a heroine, greatly admiring her spirit, invited the western lady to her court, whither she went, accom¬ panied by a goodly array of kernes and gallowglasses, as wild as the mountains that reared them. On her return to Ireland, being short of provisions, and happening to land at Howth, she, with some of her company, applied at the Castle for such hospitality as under the circumstances the custom of the times usually afforded. Great was her indignation on being informed that the family was at dinner, and that she must wait. This was too great an insult for a chieftainess and an O’Malley to submit to, and accordingly the party withdrew. Going in the di¬ rection of their ships, upon approaching the shore, they descried a young gentleman of noble appear¬ ance, and dressed as became the son of the great Earl, with some attendants, sporting upon the strand. “ Whose son is that ? ” said Grana. Upon being answered that he was the young lord of Howth, she had him immediately removed to her vessel, and away they sailed for the West. The young Earl, it is said, was kept prisoner for a con¬ siderable time, and was only released upon condition that in future the doors of the Castle should at meal-times be thrown open to all comers. 132 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. THE ABBEY OF HOWTH, situated right over the harbour, is a building of considerable extent, but less remarkable for archi- THE AliBEY OE HOWTH. tectural beauty than for the picturesqueness of its situation. Within the building may be seen a tomb of very great antiquity, erected in 1430, to Chris¬ topher, the thirteenth Baron of Howth. He is represented in relief, in complete armour, with his lady at his side, and, as usual, a dog at his feet. THE HARBOUR OF HOWTH, a noble and expensive work, extends from the base of the cliff upon which the Abbey stands. Except for fishing boats and trawlers, it is little used, owing HARBOUR OF HOWTH, ETC. 1 33 to the difficulty of keeping it free from sand. Oppo¬ site the harbour, and distant from it about a mile, is Ireland’s Eye, an extremely picturesque island, anciently called Inis-mac-Nessan. The ruins of St. Nessan’s Church, a building of the sixth century, remain near the western shore. The best way to see Ireland’s Eye is to row round it. On the eastern side are some fine caves, where seals have often been found. After viewing the old fishing town of Howth, the tourist should proceed by the path along the eastern side of the Hill. The scenery for the whole distance to the Bailey, the extreme point of the promontory, often approaches the sublime. From *^he Bailey rock the views to the south and west are some of the finest about Dublin. Round the eastern side of Howth a mountain road leads past some pretty villas to the village of Sutton, adjoining which place the archaeologist may inspect the ruins of St. Fintan’s, one of the smallest and most singular of the ancient churches of Ireland. Proceeding by a path across the Hill towards the town, we pass the remains of a large cromlech, the covering stone of which has slipped from its original position. This singular monument belongs to a class of tombs of the Pagan period, which were for a long time, but erroneously, called “ Druids’ Altars.” A pleasant walk leads us once more to the town of Howth, from which place we confidently recommend the stranger 134 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. to visit Malahide, a fishing village and watering- place, situated about five miles to the northward. CASTLE OF MALAHIDE. The venerable Castle of Malahide was erected so long ago as the reign of Henry II., by the direct ancestor of the present noble owner. It is beauti¬ fully situated upon a gentle elevation of limestone rock, near the village from which it derives its name. The building, which is nearly in the form of a square, with huge circular flanking towers at the angles, is of noble proportions, and commands several very beautiful prospects of the bay and of the surrounding country. Of its general appearance upon the exterior, our illustration will afford a very correct idea. Interesting, however, as this ancient mansion is on its exterior appearance, it is perhaps still more so in its interior features : its spacious CASTLE OF MALAHIDE. 135 hall, roofed with timber-work of oak, is of consider¬ able antiquity ; but its attraction is eclipsed by another apartment of equal age, and vastly superior beauty, with which indeed in its way there is nothing, as far as we know, to be compared in Ireland. This unique apartment is wainscoted throughout with oak elaborately carved in compartments with sub¬ jects derived from Scripture history, and though Gothic in their general character, some of them are executed with considerable skill; while the chimney- piece, which exhibits in its central division figures of the Virgin and Child, is carved with a singular degree of elegance and beauty. The whole is richly varnished, and from the blackness of tint which the wood has acquired from time, the apartment assumes the resemblance of one vast cabinet of ebony. The hall and other apartments of the Castle contain pic¬ tures of considerable interest, and of high artistic merit; amongst others, an altar-piece representing the nativity, adoration, and circumcision, the work of Albert Diirer. The history of this valuable pic¬ ture is very interesting. It is said to have belonged to the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. It was subsequently presented by Charles II., who had pur¬ chased it at the then enormous sum of ^2,oco, to the Duchess of Portsmouth, and by her given to the grandmother of the late Colonel Talbot. There are also portraits of King Charles I., and of his Queen, 136 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Henrietta Maria, by Vandyke; of James 11 . and his Queen, Anne Hyde, by Sir Peter Lely; of Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; of the Duchess of Portsmouth, mistress to King Charles II., and of her son, the first Duke of Eichmond, when a child. There are many other paintings of considerable interest, which the limits necessarily assigned to our volume prevent us from describing at any length. Adjoining the Castle is a fine ancient structure, commonly called THE ABBEY OF MALAHIDE. It belongs to the perpendicular period of Gothic architecture, and contains an eastern window of very good workmanship. An altar tomb near the centre THE ABBEY OF MALAHIDE. ROUND TOWER OE SWORDS. 137 of the nave commemorates a lady of the Plunket family, of whom it has been said that she was a maid, a wife, and a widow in one day, her husband bavin been killed on the evening of their marriage, whil resisting a sudden predatory attack, a frequent oc¬ currence in Ireland in the “ good old times.” ROUND TOWER OF SWORDS. Such of our readers as may have arrived late at Malahide will probably wish to conclude the day’s tour by returning by rail to Dublin. Should time, however, permit a visit to the neighbouring village of Swords, they will have an opportunity of K aq 138 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. viewing one of the finest and most perfect of the celebrated Round Towers of Ireland. These sin¬ gular buildings have long excited the attention of writers upon antiquarian subjects, and numerous were the theories advanced regarding their origin and uses. They have been supposed by many to be fire-temples, erected by a people who had recently im¬ migrated hither from the East, ages and ages before the Christian era ; or to have been watch-towers con¬ structed by the heathen Danes against the natives ; and by others, to have been erected for the reception of Anchorite Monks, termed Stylites, from the practice of living on a pillar. Dr. Petrie, in his learned work on the Ancient Ecclesiastical Archi¬ tecture of Ireland, did much to set the question a' rest, by proving, to the satisfaction of a considerabh section of antiquarian experts, that the Round Towers are of Christian origin, and were built during the few centuries immediately preceding the invasion of Ireland by the English, in 1171. They appear to have been used as belfries, and as places of safety for the ecclesiastics during a period of danger. The Tower of Swords is the only remaining vestige of a monastery, founded here as early as the sixth cen¬ tury by the celebrated St. Columba. The square tower adjoining is a mediaeval work, and belonged to a structure probably not older than the four¬ teenth century. SWORDS. 139 Upon the general question of Round Towers or “ bell-houses,” the learned archaeologist, Margaret Stokes, has come to the conclusion that they were built after the Irish became acquainted with the use of cement and the hammer, about the period of transition from the entablature style of the early Irish period, to the round-arched, decorated Irish Romanesque style, while the Irish builders were feeling their way to the arch, i.e., between 900 and 1000. The same authority classifies the principal Round Towers of Ireland (of which there are seventy- two altogether) into four groups, according to their antiquity. The Swords tower is in the earliest group, and consequently dates back to about the year 900. During the middle ages Swords was a place of very considerable importance, as is evidenced by the fact that in some ancient documents Dublin is described as being “ near Swords.” The ruins of its splendid archiepiscopal Castle, standing a little to the north-eastward of the town, have long afforded subjects for the artist’s pencil. The visitor may re¬ turn to Dublin either directly by a hired car or by Malahide. In the latter way, he will have the op¬ tion of either taking a car or of proceeding by the train, which leaves at stated times up to a late hour in the evening. We recommend those to whom time may not be a great consideration to proceed by car, as, besides having a delightful drive, they 140 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. will have an opportunity of inspecting the very ancient and singular Church and Holy Well of Saint Voulough, situated at a distance of about four miles from Malahide, on the Dublin road. ST. doulough’s. The building, which is extremely small, is prin¬ cipally divided upon the lower story into two apart¬ ments or divisions, in one of which is a solid mass of masonry, said to be the tomb of St. Doulough. A rude stone staircase leads to an upper stone-roofed apartment, which, from a fireplace remaining, appears evidently to have been used as an habitation. The windows and other openings of the Church display the peculiarities of the beginning of the thirteenth century. Upon the whole, it is a building perfectly unique in plan, one in which the architect ST. doulough’s. I4I appears to have violated all the principles of Gothic composition except variety. Saint Doulough’s Well, situated a little to the north-east of the church, is covered in by an octagonal building, also stone- roofed, and of great antiquity. Its waters are still supposed by many of the neighbouring peasantry to possess supernatural virtues. Adjoining the well is a large subterranean apartment, usually containing water to a considerable depth. It is entered by an extremely narrow-pointed doorway, and is known by the name of the Saint's Bath. Hither, in times past, flocked, on the saint’s day, the lame, the halt, and the blind, as to a fair, believing that, through the intercession of the saint, and through the pecu¬ liar sanctity of the water, in which they were often totally immersed, their ailments would be relieved, if not quite removed. These ancient buildings are vested in the Board of Works, whose duty it is to preserve them as national monuments from further decay. Passing through a beautiful country, and the hamlets of Belgriffin, Coolock, Artane, and Donny- carney, we once more arrive in Dublin, after a day which, we trust, will long afford delightful recollec¬ tions to many of our readers. 142 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. EXCURSION THE THIRD. County of Wicklow—Route through Rathmines—Ranelagh— Milltown—Dundrum—the Three Rock Mountain—Kilgob- bin Castle and Church—Golden Ball—Kilternan Church—the “ Giant’s Grave ”—the Sc.alp—Sugarloaf Mountains—Bray Head— Shankill —Enniskerry— Powerscourt—-Tinnahinch —Charleville—Powerscourt Waterfall—Roundwood—Var- try Waterworks—Glandelagh—Round Tower—St. Kevin’s Kitchen—the Seven Churches—St. Kevin’s Bed—Poulanass Waterfall—the Dargle—St. Valerie—Bray—Shanganagh— Cabinteely — Killiney — Obelisk — Dalkey — and home by Kingstown. The County of Wicklow has long been famous for its scenic beauty, no less than for the facility with which its chief attractions may be visited, now greater than ever, as the railway traverses its entire length. There is no taste for scenery which may not here be gratified. Its mountains are the highest, its glens the deepest, its lakes and rivers the most beautiful, in the eastern portion of Ireland. In mansions and aristocratic demesnes it is also rich ; and, what will in no slight degree recommend it to the tourist, its inhabitants are well known for their order, honesty, and general civility. The route which we have selected for the present tour will occupy either one day or two, as COUNTY OF WICKLOW. 143 may suit the time and convenience of the excur¬ sionist. We recommend him, if possible, to devote at least two days to this most interesting district. He may have a car with him from Dublin, at a moderate daily charge, which is the best way, or he may travel to Bray by rail, and thence by road to Enniskerry, and thence proceed, either by posting or on foot, as his time and disposition may suggest. We may leave Dublin by Rathmines, the most flourishing and populous of the suburbs. With the exception of handsome terraces, pretty villas, and a handsome Roman Catholic Church, there are few objects of interest to be seen ; but we must not omit a reference to the telescope factory of Sir Howard Grubb, F.R.A.S. The largest astronomical telescopes in the world have been made here, including the gigantic instrument recently ordered for Melbourne Observatory. A visit to the factory will be found most interesting. Close by is Ranelagh, a pretty outlet, well sprinkled with villas ; and from hence, we soon arrive at Milltown, where the road crosses the Dodder by a modern bridge, from which an ex¬ tremely picturesque view of the old Milltown Bridge and hamlet to the right may be obtained. The venerable-looking house, with its peaked gables and massive chimneys, to the right of the old bridge, was formerly a country hotel; but times have changed, and our citizens would now, in Milltown, scarcely 144 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. consider themselves quite free from the city smoke. After passing Dundrum, we gradually enter upon a wilder district. To the right, the steep and heathery side of the Three Rock Mountain holds out strong temptations to the sportsman. On the left, a glorious wooded country extends to the brink of Dublin Bay, which, as we ascend, is seen to more and more ad¬ vantage. The ancient shattered tower, seen to the left, is Kilgobbin Castle, held in Queen Elizabeth’s time by a branch of the family of Walsh. It is one of the fortresses erected by the early English settlers to secure Dublin against the attacks of the O’Byrnes and O’Tooles of the neighbouring glens. A little nearer is the old Church of Kilgobbin, perched upon a grassy eminence, at the foot of which, a little to the west, may be seen one of the ancient stone crosses almost peculiar to Ireland. Upon arriving at the village of Golden Ball, the reader, if he pos¬ sesses a taste for archaeological pursuits, should turn to the right by a road leading to the old Church at Kilternan, an erection of the earliest Christian times, as the style of its original portions indicates. Let him observe the masonry of the western gable, in the centre of which, now filled up with rubble-work, remains one of the peculiar square-headed doorways so characteristic of an early age in Irish Church architecture. A short walk beyond the church on the rough mountain side leads to a monument. THE SCALP. 145 which we trust will be visited by many of our readers. A stranger should enquire from any of the neighbouring people the way to the “ Giant's Grave." He will be directed to one of the finest cromlechs in Ireland—a huge mass of granite, twenty-three feet in length, supported upon stones, varying from three to seven feet in height. Re¬ suming our journey by the Enniskerry road, the first point of attraction which presents itself is a remarkable mountain pass, commonly called— THE SCALP. It appears as if the mountain had been torn asunder by some great natural convulsion. On either hand immense masses of granite, pile on THE SCALP. 146 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. pile, seem as if just arrested in their downward progress. The north-eastern side has of late years been planted ; but as you advance, the scene be¬ comes gradually more sterile, and the mountain sides seem actually to threaten an avalanche of granite. Beyond the Scalp, a truly magnificent view gradually opens. In front are the Great and Lesser Sugarloaf, two mountains known of old by an Irish name, signifying the Silver Spears, in allusion to their peaked form and the white and silvery appearance of their barren summits. To the left is the rugged outline of Bray Head, beneath the shade of which some of our historians believe that St. Patrick first landed. On the extreme left is a picturesque mountain, known as Katty Gallagher, that having been the name of a resident who, in the year 1798, gave shelter to fugitive patriots. About two miles from the Scalp, we reach the beautifully situated VILLAGE OF ENNISKERRY, a place much resorted to in the summer months for the salubrity of its air and the beauty of the sur¬ rounding scenery. This prettily-built and well- kept village is entirely the property of Viscount Powerscourt, whose noble baronial residence occu¬ pies a commanding situation upon a hill about one mile further on, in the direction of Wicklow. Upon VILLAGE OF ENNISKERRY. 147 leaving Enniskerry, we soon arrive before the gate of Powerscourt demesne, to which visitors are ad¬ mitted by an order obtainable at the agent’s office in Enniskerry. The demesne lands amount to about 800 acres of the richest soil in Ireland, beautifully diversified with hill and hollow, and in part enriched with the finest forest timber. We know of no situ¬ ation equal to that of Powerscourt mansion. The views which it commands are as beautiful as can be well conceived, and extend over a considerable part VILLAGE OF ENNISKERRY. of the 26,000 acres which constitute the estate. About a mile from Powerscourt, on the left-hand side of the road, is Tinnahinch,the seat of James Grattan, Esq., son of the celebrated orator and statesman, to 148 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. whom Tinnahinch was granted by the Irish Parlia¬ ment as a retreat from the cares and anxieties of office. The beautiful Glen of the Dargle extends from nearly this point in an easterly direction; but we shall not now wait to describe it, as we hope, on our return, to conduct the reader, at least in imagi¬ nation, through its exquisite scenery. About a quarter of a mile from Tinnahinch Bridge, Charlc- ville, the seat of Viscount Monck, is reached. From near this point a road branches off in the direction of the Deer Park, at the extreme end of which, at a distance of about three miles from the Castle, may be seen one of the great attractions of the County Wicklow, viz., the magnificent waterfall of the River Glenisloraine, commonly called Powerscourt Water¬ fall. The fall is from a rock nearly perpendicular, and from a height of over 300 feet. It is, therefore, seen to the best advantage after a heavy fall of rain. In very dry seasons the stream scarcely deserves the name of a waterfall, and sometimes almost disap¬ pears. Admission to the Deer Park and Waterfall is freely granted to all comers upon any week-day. Pursuing our way towards Roundwood by an excel¬ lent road, crossing the shoulder of the great Sugar- loaf, we pass, almost imperceptibly, into a wild and sterile district, which, however, from its very con¬ siderable height above the level of the sea, com¬ mands some glorious views of the country to the GLANDELAGH, 149 north and west. The village of Roundwood, or Toghermore, affords capital accommodation for tra¬ vellers. There are two hotels, in either of which the tourist can be hospitably entertained. There is some good fishing in the immediate neighbourhood. The enormous reservoir of the River Vartry, which sup¬ plies Dublin witli water, is close to the village. The fishing in this lake is reserved by the Corporation of Dublin for members of that body and friends in their company. Roundwood is wisely selected by many as a halting-place for the night, after they have viewed the neighbouring scenery of Glandelagh, or GLANDELAGH. of Loughs Dan and Tay. We recommend the tourist to pass on to Glandelagh, passing to the lett 150 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. the melancholy-looking Church of Derralossary, and a little further on, the ruins of Castle Kevin, formerly a noted stronghold of the sept of O’Toole. At Annamoe, in the same neighbourhood, may be seen an old mill, in the stream adjoining which Laurence Sterne, when a boy, narrowly escaped drowning. Glandelagh, or, as its name implies, “ The Valley of the Loch,” presents a scene which, for stern and desolate grandeur, is not surpassed in Ireland. The glen, which is almost completely hemmed in by lofty and, in one place, almost overhanging mountains, was anciently celebrated as an abode of religion and literature. Here, about the close of the sixth century, a monastery was founded by Saint Kevin, round which a city was subsequently built. The ruins of a number of extremely early ecclesiastical buildings, including a Round Tower of no feet in height, are all that remain to indicate the former importance of the place. Up to a very late period, the loneliness of the place was almost too impressive. Of late years, however, a number of houses have been built in the neighbourhood of the Churches; amongst the rest, an hotel, where the tourist may have first-rate accommodation. A visitor, after view¬ ing the general scenery of the glen, should not fail to examine the group of churches which it contains. They nearly all belong to a period almost coeval with Christianity in this country. Saint Kevin’s GLANDELAGH. 151 Kitchen, a small, stone-roofed building, is perhaps the most interesting of the group, as it combines the uses of a church with those of a dwelling. The Lady Church, which there is every reason to believe was built and used by Saint Kevin, contains in its western entrance a feature of the highest interest. It was before this doorway that Sir Walter Scott re¬ mained with folded arms and lost in thought, for up¬ wards of half an hour, to the no small wonder of some of his less impressionable companions. The other ST. Kevin’s kitchen. churches are—the Rhefeart Church, the ancient burial-place, as its name implies, of the petty kings or chieftains, the ancient rulers of this district ; the Priest’s House, a structure in the last stage of ruin, wherein Roman Catholic clergymen are usually in¬ terred ; the Cathedral, or great Church, facing the Round Tower, Temple-na-Skellig, near the cliff of 152 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. Lug-duff; and the Priory of St. Saviour, originally the most beautiful structure in the place. In the cemetery there is a fine specimen of the carved stone crosses, of which so many remain in Ireland. The “ Seven Churches ” and other ancient and ecclesiastical remains are amongst the many national monuments which are vested in the Board of Works, with a view to their preservation. The Bed of St. Kevin, a small chamber hewn out of the solid, perpendicular rock, at a distance of about twenty-five feet above the level of the lake, is often visited by tourists, who usually find the task of getting into it not so difficult as they had been led to suppose. This was certainly a retreat of the Saint’s ; and if we may believe tradition, it was from this rock that poor Kathleen was preci¬ pitated by him in a moment of holy indignation. Moore’s beautiful ballad will be familiar to most of our readers. Saint Kevin had fled from the fasci¬ nations of Kathleen to this wild retreat— ♦ * }}: 5ic * “ But when morning met his view, Her mild glances met it too. Ah ! those saints have cruel hearts ; Quickly from the bed he starts, And with rude, repulsive shock. Hurls her o’er the beetling rock.” THE SEVEN CHURCHES. 153 There are two ways of getting to this celebrated bed—either by boat, when the visitor will have to climb the cliff—no very difficult matter—or by a rugged and difficult path above the lake. The late Rev. Csesar Otway thus describes his visit:— “ By this time we had rowed under Kevin’s Bed, and landing adjoining to it, ascended an inclined stratum of the rock to a sort of ledge or resting- place, from whence I and some others prepared to enter the Bed. Here the guides make much ado about proposing their assistance ; but to anyone who has common sense and enterprise, there is no serious difficulty, for, by the aid of certain holes in the rock, and points which you can easily grasp, you can turn into this little artificial cave, which, in fact, is not bigger than a small baker’s oven. I, and two young men who followed me, found it a very tiglit fit when crouched together in it. At the further end there is a sort of pillow and peculiar excavation made for the saint’s head ; and the whole of the interior is tattooed with the initials of such as have ventured to come in. Amongst many, I could observe those of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Combermere, &c., &c.; and we were shown the engravings of certain blue¬ stocking dames—as, for instance, Lady M—n, who made it her temporary boudoir” The Waterfall of Poulanass takes its name from a pretty glen through which the stream glides till it L 154 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. reaches the Upper Lake. A visit to this wild spot wall amply repay the lover of nature for his time and trouble. The visitor should remain for the night either at the Royal Hotel, Glandelagh, or at one of the Hotels in Roundwood. In the morning. Loughs Dan and Tay should be visited, and then, on the return to Dublin, the Dargle. The car should be sent round from tire Powerscourt side of the glen, •with directions for it to wait at the opposite end. There would thus be a walk of about one mile through the glen of the Dargle, a spot of all others in the vicinity of Dublin the favourite haunt of the artist. The “ Dargle ” signifies in English “ The Valley of Oaks,” a name, in this instance, very properly applied. It is a deep, shady glen, the sides of which are clothed with woods of oak, ash, holly, and other trees, so as to form a complete wilderness, through which a path has been formed. The Dargle river brawls over the rocks below in almost one continuous rapid. From the pathway many enchanting views of the valley of the Dargle and of the surrounding scenery may be obtained. Strangers are here generously admitted at all times; and notwithstanding the exuberance of the foliage, there are many grassy patches, where parties often halt to dine. Resuming our car at the more eastern gate of the glen, we soon meet the high road between Dublin and Newtownmountkennedy. Turning to BRAY. I5S the left, pause for a moment upon a bridge which here spans the Dargle river. To the left is S^. Vakrie. To the right, the beautifully wooded plantations of Lord Pembroke present themselves. The road from this point to Bray passes along the bank of the Dargle river, which here, unconfined by steep banks, flows placidly along. About a mile from Bray, the scene in the direction of the Sugar- loaf is almost as fine as anything we have yet described. Bray will afford the tourist an excellent halting-place, having railway communication by two routes from Dublin, about twice in each hour. There is a good refreshment room attaclied to the railway station. Bray is a most rising seaside town, with about 7,000 regular inhabitants, the visitors during the summer months numbering several thousand more. The town is remarkable for the beauty of its situation, and for the possession of some of the best hotels in Ireland. Of these, the principal are Breslin’s Marine, the International, the Royal, and Lacy’s. The first is close to the sea shore, the second is separated from it by the railway, the third is about three hundred yards inland on the old coach road between Dublin and Bray, and the fourth is on the Esplanade, close to Bray Head. There is a good bathing-place for ladies on the Esplanade, and gentlemen can bathe in a small bay a little way round the headland. 156 what’s to be seen in dubein. Bands perform on the Esplanade about twice a week during the summer and autumn months. Occasional displays of fireworks, and an annual regatta, contribute to the enlivenment of visitors during the same season. The river is famous for its white trout, an apparatus for the taking of which has been constructed in connexion with a mill- stream, flowing nearly parallel with the river. The trout forces his way into an enclosure, from which he can find no exit, and in which he may be dis¬ tinctly seen. Persons requiring a supply mention the size of the fish they want, or point him out, and the capture is easily effected by a net. The river here separates the counties of Dublin and Wicklow. Ascending the hill leading from the town to Little Bray, we have a magnificent view of Bray Head, of the Wicklow Mountains, and of the rich valley through which the river, here called the Bray river, flows. Beyond some gentlemen’s seats, and the views of Shankill and of the Dublin Mountains to the left, there is little of interest along this road till we arrive at Skanganagh, where stand the ruins of an ancient Castle, formerly a stronghold of the Walsh family. A little beyond the Castle, on the left-hand side of the road, from which it is distant only a few perches, may be seen one of those singular remains of anti¬ quity called Cromlechs, or Druids’ Altars, but which are certainly tombs of heathen times. From a little KILLINEY. 157 beyond the Cromlech the ascent of the western slope of Killiney Hill commences. The view west¬ ward from this commanding situation embraces the whole of the rich valley situated between Killiney Hill and the Three-Rock Mountain. Nearly in the same direction may be seen the ruined churches of Rathmichael and Tulla, placed upon gentle eminences. The former place was of some note in ancient times, as the remains of its Round Tower sufficiently indicate ; the latter is said to owe its erection to the Danes, and to have been dedicated to Saint Olave. In its vicinity are the remains of three very ancient crosses of stone. In front, and stretching to the north-east, rises the Hill of Killiney, on the highest point of which is an Obelisk, erected for the purpose of giving employ¬ ment to the neighbouring poor during a period of scarcity, rather more than a century ago. A ruined Signal Tower, on a ridge to the right of the Obelisk,^ has a very picturesque effect. The views from Killi¬ ney Hill exhibit a delightful combination of heathery mountain and sterile rock, of wild ravine and wooded glen, of plains the richest in Ireland, extending, in one unbroken surface, over the neighbouring coun¬ ties of Meath and Kildare. The mountains of Mourne, amongst which Slieve Donard, the highest mountain in the North of Ireland, stands con¬ spicuous, complete the landscape to the north; 158 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. while at the base of the hill, in the same direction, are Kingstown and its splendid Harbour, the vil¬ lages of Dalkey and Bullock, with their ancient castles and numerous modern villas. Southward, the view is closed in by the Wicklow Mountains and Bray Head, to the latter of which, from Killiney, a ■strand extends in one beautifully curved and un¬ broken line. The little island of Dalkey, opposite the most eastern point of Killiney Hill, was, down ’to a comparatively recent period, the scene of an ■annual convivial meeting of a society which had elevated the island to the dignity of an independent kingdom,^—the monarchy being elective, as also all the high officers of state, such as Archbishop of Dalkey, Admiral of the Muglins, &c. The annual visitation of the sovereign and his ministers of state —none of whom were, happily for themselves, bound to residence—afforded considerable amusement to the citizens. It took place in June, and the pro¬ ceedings were duly recorded in a newspaper, entitled the Dalkey Gazette. The last of the coronations 'took place in 1797 ; in fact, they were suppressed, as likely to throw ridicule on monarchical institutions, then assailed in many parts of the Continent. From Killiney the tourist may proceed to Dublin by the train, which starts at six minutes past every hour, except 6 p.m., in which case the service is half-an- hour late. MAYNOOTH, 159 CARTON, THE SEAT OF THE DUKE OF LEINSTER. EXCURSION THE FOURTH. Maynooth—Carton—Leixlip—The Salman Leap—Newbridge —Castletown—Saint Wolstan’s—Lucan, &c. This excursion, which may be accomplished partly by railway and partly by car, will occupy one entire day. The tourist should proceed by the train, w'hich leaves the Terminus of the Midland Great Western Railway, at the Broadstone, at i o’clock P.M., to Maynooth, a place of considerable impor¬ tance in ancient times, as a chief hold of the almost princely family of Fitzgerald, and at present as the seat of the College endowed by Government for the education of persons intended for the Roman Catho¬ lic ministry. He will pass through a beautiful and highly-cultivated country, adorned with plantations and numerous villas. Upon the right (we suppose l6o what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. the traveller seated with his face towards the engine) is the village of Glasnevin, famous as the residence of Tickell, Swift, Addison, Delany, Steele, Sheridan, and Parnell. Upon the left is the Phoenix Park, and a little further Castleknock, a village near which, and visible from the line, are the picturesque ruins of a castle erected in the twelfth century by Hugh Tyrrell, and which was taken in 1316 by Edward Bruce, and in 1641 by the famous Colonel Monck, who killed eighty of its defenders, and subsequently hanged many more. Dunsink, the Astronomical Observatory of the Dublin University, and the residence of the Astro¬ nomer Royal, Sir .Robert Ball, F.R.S., may be seen to the right, at a distance of about four miles from Dublin. At Clonsilla, seven miles from Dublin, the line passes by the side of “the deep sinkings,” a cutting through the solid rock three miles in length, and of very considerable depth. From this point till we arrive at Maynooth the views along the line, and particularly on its southern side, are of an extremely beautiful character. MAYNOOTH. The Royal College of St. Patrick at Maynooth was first opened for students in 1795. Since that time many additions to the original building have MAYNOOTH COLLEGE. l6l been made. The annual grant from Government ceased by the operation of the Irish Church Act of 1869, and a capital sum was given to the College instead. This fine structure, erected from designs of the celebrated Pugin, is now most commodious. Until a recent period the buildings of the College MAYNOOl'H COLLEGE. were capable of containing only about 450 students, but the new additions afford accommodation for a much greater number, and there are apartments for professors, a noble hall, and a library, besides nume¬ rous offices. There is a magnificent cloister in the early English style of architecture. The ancient parish church is a very beautiful building, in a style which indicates the fifteenth century. Its windows are remarkable for the elegance of their details ; and there is a massive tower at the west end of the church i 62 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. which was used as a belfry, and no doubt as a place of refuge in troublesome times. CASTLE OF MAYNOOTH. Of the Castle of Maynooth, wliich was erected or rebuilt in 7426, by John, the sixth Earl of Kildare, considerable remains exist. They consist of a mas¬ sive keep, which was defended by outworks of great strength and magnitude. Of the towers, which were placed at intervals along the outer fortifications, several remain in a state of preservation sufficient to give an idea of the ancient strength of this great Anglo-Norman fortress, which indeed was often the scene of fierce assault. In the reign of Henry VIII. the Castle was besieged and taken by Sir William Brereton, but was restored, together with the estate which had been confiscated, in consequence of the CARTON. 163 rebellion of Silken Thomas, to Gerald, the eleventh Earl. Shortly after the middle of the seventeenth century the Castle was suffered to go to decay. The present noble proprietor has tastefully planted the sloping sides of the ancient fosse, which is now dry, with trees suitable to the scene. Within a short distance of Maynooth is CARTON, the magnificent demesne of the Duke of Leinster. The house, which is a noble erection in the Grecian style of architecture, was built about the close of the last century, from designs by Richard Cassells, the architect of Leinster House, in Kildare-street, Dublin. The demesne comprises an area of about 1,000 acres, and extends for a considerable distance by the side of the railway, from which it is separated only by the Royal Canal and the public road. The grounds .are beautifully laid out, and are adorned with lakes, made by throwing barriers across the little river Rye. After visiting Carton,* the tourist should proceed either on foot or by a car, which may be engaged at Maynooth, to Leixlip, distant from the latter place about four miles. This interesting village is beau¬ tifully situated on the river Liffey, and consists for the greater part of well-built houses. * At the moment of writing, the demesne is closed to the public ; but this arrangement is, we trust, only temporary. 164 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. LEIXLIP CASTLE, which is still in repair, was erected by Adam Fitz Hereford, one of the earlier Anglo-Norman invaders of Ireland. Its antique towers, mantled with ivy, rise majestically above the surrounding trees. To form any adequate notion of the beauty of that portion of the valley of the Liffey which adjoins Leixlip, the tourist should walk along the southern bank of the river to THE SALMON LEAP, a spot often resorted to by parties of pleasure from the metropolis. Here the river falls over a ledge of rocks, forming a beautiful cascade, up which the salmon, in times gone by, might be seen to spring. THE SALMON LEAP. 165 but, on account of the height to be surmounted, suc¬ ceeding only after many ineffectual attempts. Now modern civilization has come to their rescue, and their ascent is facilitated by a “ ladder ” at one side of the fall. By taking the train from either Lucan or Hazelhatch Station, on the Great Southern and Western Railway, the tourist may arrive at New¬ bridge, where the stream is crossed by a bridge, THE SALMON LEAP ON THE LIFFEY. erected in 1308 by John Le Decer, who was Mayor of Dublin. This is the most ancient structure of its class upon the Liffey, and (since the destruction of Thomond and Athlone bridges upon the Shannon) perhaps in the kingdom. In the immediate vicinity of Newbridge are the Curragh Camp, which is well worth a visit, and the ruins of St. Wolstan’s, a mon- i66 WHATS TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN. astery, founded about the year 1202 by Adam Fitz Hereford. These consist of walls, which probably formed the dwelling-houses of the ecclesiastics, and some very perfect and interesting gateways, which bear all the characteristics of the thirteenth century. These remains of ancient magnificence contrast strangely with that of modern times, as shown in CASTLETOWN HOUSE, in the same neighbourhood. Its principal entrance to the demesne is in the village of Celbridge, which may be conveniently approached by the Great Southern and Western Railway (Kingsbridge Ter¬ minus). Another gate of the demesne is near the Salmon Leap and the village of Leixlip, already de¬ scribed, Castletown House, which belongs to the CASTLETOWN HOUSE. CASTLETOWN HOUSE. 167 Conolly family, is popularly supposed to contain a window for every day in the year. A magnificent avenue, shaded by lime trees, leads from the front gate to the mansion. The village of Lucan, situated about three miles from Leixlip, in the direction of Dublin, was formerly a place of fashionable resort, in consequence of the estimation in which its mineral waters are held. The Spa is considered efficacious in rheumatic, bilious, and scorbutic affections. From Lucan, a short drive leads to the Strawberry Beds, by the road to which place, and through the Phoenix Park, a route described in connection with the first excursion, the tourist may return to Dublin, should he not prefer travelling by the railway. The Lucan Steam Tramway Company, mentioned in another chapter, despatch trains about once an hour, to con¬ vey passengers to Parkgate-street, Dublin ; and this mode of travelling, being more or less novel in its character, is deserving of a trial. At the village of Chapelizod, through which the roadside railway passes, the river Liffey is prettily wooded, and there are boats for hire. The fishing in this part of the river is said to be fairly good. i68 WHAT S TO BE SEEN IN DUBLIN, SCENE OF THE BATTLE OF THE BOYNE. EXCURSION THE FIFTH. Drogheda ; Gates of—Magdalen Steeple—The Boyne—The Obelisk—The Battle—Dowth Tumulus—Netterville Charity —Newgrange—Slane Castle and Abbey—Slane Park— Monasterboice. The country we shall now visit is rich in scenic beauty as well as in historical interest. The route we have selected for a day’s tour lies for a con¬ siderable distance along the banks of the Boyne— a river, writes Dr. Petrie, “ of a character as beautiful as could be found anywhere, or even be imagined. Scenery of this class, of equal richness, DROGHEDA. 169 may be often found in England ; but we do not know of any river’s course of the same length in which natural beauty so happily continues, or in which so many interesting memorials of past ages could be found.” The best arrangement will be to leave Dublin by the Great Northern Railway for Drogheda at 9 o’clock, A.M., and to return from Drogheda by the 8.10 p.M. up train. The route by railway is not un¬ interesting, though, from the nature of the cuttings, the views are seldom very striking. We shall, there¬ fore, at once consider ourselves in Drogheda, a town of considerable importance, and full of historic asso¬ ciations. In 1649 the place was besieged by Crom¬ well, whose efforts to subdue this, the first place he assaulted in Ireland, were several times unsuccessful. At length, leading the troops in person, he succeeded, and issued orders for an indiscriminate massacre, which lasted five days. Some of the old fortifications and walls still exist. The principal are St. Laurence’s Gate and the West Gate ; and to these we would proceed at once. The ecclesiastical ruins for which Drogheda has been celebrated are St. Mary’s Abbey, &c., founded in the time of Edward I.; Magdalen Steeple, the only remains of a Dominican Convent that flourished here in the twelfth century; St. Mary’s Hospital; and some minor foundations. There is good fishing in the rivers Boyne and Black water. -M 170 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. The trade of Drogheda is principally with Liver¬ pool ; its population is about 15,000. The town is built on the Boyne, at a distance of four miles from the sea. The immediate surroundings are quite un¬ interesting ; and the tourist, having walked through the few principal streets of the town, and inspected the fine viaduct of the Great Northern Railway, 95 feet in height, would do well to hire a car and pro¬ ceed at once to the scene of the Battle of the Boyne, which is commemorated by an Obelisk, erected near the spot where Duke Schomberg was killed. It was this memorable engagement that decided the fate of King James, and settled the British Crown upon the head of the Prince of Orange. For so important a battle, the number slain on both sides was remarkably small; the victors lost but 400 men or thereabouts, while the loss on the side of the Irish has been computed at 1000. King James is popularly believed to have witnessed the fight from the hill of Donore, a considerable eminence on the south side of the river, and crowned by a ruined church. The Prince of Orange occupied a position upon the opposite side of the river, not far from the rock upon which the Obelisk now stands. It was here that an incident occurred which had well-nigh changed the fate of the day. As the Prince rode out to reconnoitre, the Irish party upon the opposite side of the river, under cover of a body NEWGRANGE CAIRN, &C. 171 of horse, carried with them, unperceived, a couple of field-pieces, which they dropped in the corner of a ploughed field, within range of the Prince and his party. As his future Majesty—who had been rest¬ ing upon the grass—was in the act of remounting, two shots were fired from these guns, one of them slightly wounding the King’s shoulder, and killing two horses and a man about a hundred yards beyond him. A picturesque road leads us from the scene of the battle to Dowth, distant about four miles from Drogheda. This district, for a distance of several miles up the river, appears in Pagan times to have been one great cemetery. The monuments which still remain consist of Barrows and pillar-stones, with the three immense Cairns of Dowth, Newgrange, and Knowth. In the latter, which has recently been explored, were found a series of chambers, containing im¬ mense quantities of burnt human and other bones. These singular crypts are still open, and will amply repay a visit. Adjoining the mound is a portion of the ancient Castle of the Netterville family, now used as an asylum for a limited number of aged persons of both sexes. The scenery of this portion of the river is of the most varied and charming description, and has by more than one writer been compared to that of the Rhine. An excellent road 172 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. leads from Dovvth to Newgrange, the most remark"- able of all the great cairns. The visitor to Newgrange should bring with him two or three candles and some matches ; a piece of magnesium wire may also be used with advantage. The entrance to the chamber is by a low, quad¬ rangular opening, forming the mouth of a passage or gallery, running nearly north and south to a distance of sixty-three feet. The sides of the passage are formed of gigantic stones, some of which exhibit a kind of rude carving, placed on end in an inclining position. For a considerable distance from the ex¬ terior the roof is so low that a visitor is obliged to stoop, and at one spot it becomes necessary to resort for a moment to the infantile method of progression. At about three-fourths of its length from the exterior the height of the passage suddenly increases, and at its junction with the chamber the height is seventeen feet. We now find ourselves within a large dome¬ shaped cavern, nearly circular, with three offsets from it, so that the ground-plan resembles a cross. In each offset or recess remains a large stone, slightly hollowed, and supposed by some antiquaries to have been used for purposes of heathen sacrifice. The sides of the chamber and offsets are composed of stones of enormous size, many of them weighing several tons, placed on end. Over these are stones of about equal dimensions, laid horizontally and slightly pro- VILLAGE OF SLANE. 173 jecting as they ascend, till all the roof is closed in and completed by one immense flag. As in the passage, the stones of the chamber are rudely orna¬ mented with carvings in spiral or chevron patterns, indicative of the most remote antiquity. From the exterior of the mound, which is about 100 feet in height, and, like Dowth, is composed of field-stones, a most striking and interesting view of the surrounding country presents itself. To the north-west is the beautiful hill of Slane, crowned with the ruins of its once famous monastery ; east¬ ward lies the valley of the Boyne, displaying some of the richest land in Great Britain. In every di¬ rection the views are most beautiful. Descending the hill, a drive of about three and a-half miles brings us to the pretty village of Slane, a place of great note in the early ecclesiastical history of Ireland. Its principal attraction at present is the Castle and Demesne of the Marquis of Conyng- ham ; the former, a noble structure, situated upon a beautifully sloping eminence over the river, the banks of which here display the most exquisite com¬ bination of the picturesque and beautiful. To see the Demesne and Castle to the best advantage, the visitor should leave his car at the gate nearer the town, giving directions for it to meet him at the opposite gate, distant about one mile. He may then proceed on foot by the road, which passes almost by 174 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. the river side, to the hermitage of St. Ere, an exqui¬ sitely picturesque ruin of great antiquity. The saint, who was judge to St. Patrick, died in 512, at the age of fourscore and ten. Within the ruin, which is built in the decorated style of Gothic architecture, is the tomb of the Earls of Drogheda. The latest occupation of St. Erc’s by religious people which we read of was in 1510, when Malachi and Donat O’Brien, two hermits, made the venerable walls their retreat. From this point a short walk by the river’s brink will bring the tourist within sight of the seat of Lord Conyngham, a large castel¬ lated mansion, with towers and parapets, but less remarkable for the excellence of its architectural style than for its extent and the peculiar beauty of its situation. We suppose the traveller to leave the demesne by the western gate. He should proceed through the town to the hill of Slane, from the sum¬ mit of which are views more grand and extensive than any which we have yet noticed. Indeed, it would be difficult to point to a spot the commanding site and glorious scenery of which can equally attract attention. The place is also full of most interesting historic associations. Here it was that St. Patrick almost began his mission in Ireland. In connection with the monastery at an early period was a semi¬ nary of great celebrity—one of those seats of religion and literature for which Ireland was famous. To MONASTERBOICE. 175 the westward may be seen the hill whereon stood Tara, for ages the most celebrated royal city in Erin, but now, after nearly fourteen centuries of ruin, a collection of grassy hillocks and trenches. To the north and east are the ruins of Monasterboice and Mellifont Abbey. The latter, being within conve¬ nient distance of Newgrange, may be visited within the course of the same drive. To the north-west, the Castle and Yellow Steeple of Trim, distant four¬ teen miles, are distinctly visible. Here it was, ac¬ cording to Archdall, that Dagobert, King of Aus- trasia, a part of France, spent twenty years of his life ; “ he having been taken by Grimoald, Mayor of the Palace, shorn a monk, rendered unfit to hold the reins of government, and banished into Ireland.” The ruins of the church of the monastery, which consists of a long nave, with side aisles, and a quad¬ rangular tower at the west end, will, we trust, engage the attention of many of our readers. The domestic buildings of the establishment, though in a great state of ruin, possess many points of interest to the architectural antiquary. A magnificent Pagan mound or tumulus stands a little to the west of the church. We recommend the reader, after visiting Slane, to shape his course to the singularly interesting group of ecclesiastical antiquities situated at Monas terboice, a place of which he may have had a distant 176 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. view from the top of the hill. Here, early in the sixth century, a monastery—of which the present building probably formed an original portion—was founded by St. Buite, or Bcetius, son of Bronach; hence the name Mainister-Biiite from which Monas- terboice is a corruption. The ruins are situated in a desolate, treeless, hollow, forming a striking con¬ trast to the rich scenery through which we have already passed. The scene is, perhaps, on that account more in harmony with the desolation of the place. The remains consist of the shattered walls of two churches, a nearly perfect round tower, two of the largest and most beautifully sculptured stone crosses VIEW OF MONASTERBOICE. MONASTERBOICE. 177 in Ireland, with a portion of a third. These, like the somewhat similar remains at Glendalough and else¬ where, are preserved by Government supervision as national monuments. The tower presents all the indications of very great antiquity : it measures no feet in height, and 50 feet in circumference at the base. The smaller of the churches, standing a little to the east of the tower, appears to have been remodelled in the tenth century. The larger church, which is represented in our view, is of the most remote date of Christian architecture in this country, and is probably the very building erected here by St, Euite, over thirteen hundred years ago. But by far the most attractive objects of the group are the finely sculptured and magnificently proportioned crosses. The largest measures 27 feet in height, including the base, which is very deeply buried in the soil. The other perfect cross, which is not nearly so large, is much more beautiful, and is remarkably interesting on account of the inscrip¬ tion which it bears upon the lower portion of its shaft, and which has been rendered as follows by Dr. Petrie:— “ A prayer for Mureclach, by whom this cross was made.” There were two abbots of the name of Muredach, one of whom died a.d. 844, the other in a.d. 924. 178 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. There are a variety of reasons for assigning this cross to the latter, who was a remarkable man— “ the head of the council of all the men in Bregia, laity and clergy.” The images in nine of the twenty-two panels of the south-east cross are inter¬ preted to illustrate respectively the Fall of Man, Expulsion from Eden, Adam delves and Eve spins, Cain and Abel, the Magi, the Three Warriors before David, Michael and Satan at the Weighing of Souls, the Crucifixion, and the Last Judgment. Out of twenty-four panels on the west cross only six subjects can be clearly identified, namely, the Crucifixion, the Sacrifice of Isaac, Empty Tomb and Sleeping Soldiers, Samson with Lion and Bear, David and Goliath, and the Ascended Saviour. Such of our readers as may not have an oppor¬ tunity of visiting Monasterboice may see admirably executed casts of these beautiful relics of antiquity among the treasures of the Royal Irish Academy. To bring our most northerly tour to a conclu¬ sion, we have now but to conduct the reader to Drogheda by what was, before the establishment of the railway, the great northern road from Dublin. From the hill over Monasterboice he will have a noble prospect of the sea, the mouth of the Boyne, •of Drogheda, and of the broad, rich lands which lie between the latter place and the mountains of Wicklow and Dublin. KINGSTOWN. 179 A DAY AT KINGSTOWN. Kingstown—The Railway Station—-Salt Hill—Monkstown Church—The Harbour—Town Hall—Bullock—Dalkey— The Island—-Killiney—The Castle—Hotels—Churches. Although we have already referred to some of the principal places of interest in the neighbourhood of Kingstown, yet few persons, we expect, will be satisfied with so cursory an acquaintance with this locality, possessing as it does peculiar beauties and attractions, unsurpassed, in their way, in Ire¬ land. The Dublin and Kingstown Railway was opened for traffic on the 17th December, 1834 ; and has the greatest traffic of any such line. It is six miles in length, and was constructed at an expense of ;^37o,ooo, or about ^62,000 per mile. The Railway Station at the Dublin end is in Westland- row. This terminus, which was long insufficient for the traffic, has now been rebuilt upon an extensive scale ; and in many other respects, the present directors deserve the grateful thanks of the public for the reforms which they have effected to secure the comfort and convenience of passengers. The l8o what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. Dublin and Kingstown line was the first established in Ireland, and the second in the United Kingdom, and is now connected with that to Wicklow and Wexford. The view from it is very pleasing, em¬ bracing the sweep of the Bay. There are stations at Lansdowne-road, Sandymount, Sydney Parade, Merrion, Booterstown, Blackrock—a favourite bath¬ ing resort of the Dublin citizens—Sea Point, and Salt Hill (Monkstown), with its pretty terraces and villas. The old harbour of Dunleary lies beneath us as we run into Kingstown. This southern shore of Dublin Bay was the scene of many shipwrecks in the olden time, previous to its possession of a light¬ house—the Bay being traversed by sand-banks, denominated the “ Bulls,” from the roaring of the sea there resembling the bellowing of those animals. Kingstown owes its present condition, name, and, indeed, existence, to the visit of George IV. in 1821, since which time it has become a fashionable watering-place. Previously it was the little fishing village of Dunleary. Here there is an asylum harbour, in the words of the Tidal Harbour Com¬ missioners, “ one of the most splendid artificial ports in the United Kingdom.” It embraces an area of 250 acres, and has a depth of from 15 to 27 feet. The two principal piers are 4,950 and 3,500 feet in length respectively. It cost little short of one million of money, and was “ finished ” in the year KINGSTOWN. l8l 1859. Many additions and improvements have, however, been made from time to time. At the end of the east pier is a revolving light, visible every half minute nine miles at sea in clear weather. The town has a population of about 22,000, and comprises several streets, of which George’s-street, over half a mile in length, is the main one. Marine- terrace, and some similar situations commanding the sea, are occupied by very handsome residences. The Town Hall, which is close to the Railway Station, was opened in 1880. It is a large and highly ornamental edifice with a lofty clock tower. The Assembly Rooms, which the Town Hall con¬ tains, are well suited for balls, concerts, &c. A portion of the building is occupied by the Kings¬ town Courthouse. The Post Office, a handsome and commodious building, is close by. Tramway cars run at short intervals from the Railway Station to Dalkey, passing by Sandycove, Glasthule, and Bullock. Another line of tramways connects Kings¬ town with Monkstown, Seapoint, and Blackrock. The walks and rides in the neighbourhood are picturesque and delightful, as are also the sea views from the rising grounds inland. The military bands which perform often in the summer evenings on the East Pier add greatly to the attractions of Kingstown, and draw crowds by the railway from Dublin. An obelisk on the East Pier commemorates the bravery i 82 what’s to be seen in DUBLIN. of Captain Boyd, R.N., of H.M.S. Ajax, who lost his life in attempting to rescue sailors from a wreck on the 9th February, 1861. The trains start every half hour daily, stopping at intermediate stations ; and quick trains, which stop at Blackrock only, start at a quarter before every hour. From Kingstown trains start for Dublin at every hour and half hour, and, with a few exceptions, at 23 minutes past every hour. These stop at Blackrock, and occasionally at Lansdowne Road. The trains to Dalkey, Bray, &c., leave Kingstown as each hour strikes. On arriving at Kingstown, which will always be interest¬ ing as the station for the City of Dublin Steampacket Company’s magnificent mail boats, which travel twice daily between Kingstown and Holyhead, the visitor will determine whether he will pursue his journey by rail, by tramway, or by car on to Dalkey, a pleasant watering-place ; whence an agreeable pedestrian excursion can be effected by crossing Telegraph Hill to Victoria Park, which was opened to the public by Prince Albert Victor of Wales, in commemoration of Her Majesty’s Jubilee on June 30th, 1887. Immediately on passing through the gate, take the path up the hill to the right, and traverse the grounds to the Obelisk, from which views of the most romantic and beautiful character are obtained. Competent judges allege that the combination of natural beauties viewed from this KINGSTOWN. 183 spot is unrivalled. Some have compared the sea view to that of the far-famed Bay of Naples. The village of Killiney is close by, and at a short distance beyond it a steep path leads to the strand. The principal hotels in Kingstown are the Royal Marine, the Anglesea Arms, and Brazil’s. The two former are first-class ; the latter is a more moderate but well-conducted establishment. There is a billiard room in the Royal Marine Hotel as well as in Brazil’s. There are two such rooms attached to Kenny’s Res¬ taurant, Eblana-a venue. The places of public worship are numerous, and comprise churches for the Protestant Episcopalian, the Presbyterian, the Methodist, the Roman Catholic, with a Quakers’ Meeting-house and a Free Church. In an architectural sense, the most remarkable are the Mariners’ (Protestant) Church and St. Michael’s (Roman Catholic). The latter is now in process of enlargement and restoration. THE END. C. W. Gibbs, Printer, Dublin. ADVERTISEMENTS. BOOKS RELATING TO IRELAND, PUBLISHED OR SOLD BY HODGES, FIGGIS, AND CO. A SHORT HISTORY OF THE IRISH PEOPLE, DOWN TO DATE OF THE PLANTATION OF ULSTER. By the late A. G. Richey, Q.C., LL.D. Edited, with Notes, by R. Romney Kane, LL.D. 8vo, price 14s. THE LAKE DWELLINGS OF IRELAND, or Ancient Lacustrine Habitations of Erin. By W. G. Wood-Martin, M.R.I.A. 8vo, Illustrated, price 25s. PETRIE’S ROUND TOWERS AND ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF IRELAND. With upwards of 250 Illustrations. Royal 8vo, cloth, 28s. 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CROWN, BAR, & BRIDGE-WORK; NEW METHODS PERMANENTLY ADJUSTING Irffiosil BY HERBERT CLIFFORD, L.D.S., R.C.S.E., CLARE STREET, DUBLIN. DUBLIN: HODGES, FIGGIS, AND CO., GRAFTON STREET. 1887. Entered at Stationers’ Hall. N 2 ADVERTISEMENTS. The Greatest Luxury of the Day IS THE TURKISH BATH, IN ESTABLISHma HEALTH. PEEVEHTING DISEASE, AND IN EESTOEIHG THE SICK, When carefully and skilfully administered, in high range of temperature, and with perfectly pure air, AS IN THE TURKISH BATHS, 127 Stephen’s Green, AND Lincoln Place. ADVERTISFMENTS. t 4 o <3 pq w '2 ^ o ?5 LO (1) o c 3 &C - a CO u ;z; g :3 - s %-> Pu REGISTERED AT STATIONERS HALL. d e 3 a> B O 5 • o A >» S-t o a *a> $-t o 03 O’REILLY, DUNNE, & CO. call special attention to this make of the above goods. UNHEARD OF PRIOR TO ITS INTRODUCTION IN 1878 BY THEIR I'IRM—being manufactured from PURE SILK WARP.S, and entirely FREE FROM THE SLIGHTEST ADULTERATION THROUGH CHEMICAL WEIGHTING IN THE DYE, are equally free from the numerous IMPERFECTIONS ASCRIBED TO BLACK SILKS, SUCH AS GREASE MARKS, &c., CONSPICUOUSLY COMBINING GREAT SOFTNESS, BRILLIANCY, and DURABILITY. ■g’oplitt Stacfoi'i?, 30 COLLEOE GREEN, DUBLIN. 4 ADVFRTIPEMF.NTS. u) Sfcrtin SPLENDID SALOON PADDLE STEAMSHIPS, DUKE OF ARGYLE. DUKE OF LEINSTER, LORD CLYDE, LORD GOUGH, And the First-class Screw Steamer, GENERAL GORDON (New), Or other Steamers, Sail to and from DUBLIN AND GLASGOW, Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every alternate Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, Calling at GREENOCK. (Saturday’s Steamer from Dublin excepted). Cabin Fare to or from -Glasgow Do. (including Rail to or from Greenock) Return Tickets (available for 6 months) Do. (including Rail to and from Greenock) Dublin and Edinburgh— Cabin and First Class Return (two months) £o IS o O l6 T I 2 6 t 5 o I o o I 10 o Passengers are also booked through from Dublin to the principal Scotch Railway Stations at very low through fares. Childreu under Twelve Years Half Fare. Cheap Return Tickets (available for one week), including Admission to the Glasgow Exhi¬ bition. Saloon, 20s.; Steerage, 9s. Agents: HENRY LAMDN-T, 93 Hope Street (adjoining Central Station), f-, p anS'-^roomielavv, Glasgow. LITTLE..& CO., Excise Buildings, Greenock. 0 HtiMln Hfiices: iBpo^ciNG Office for PAk^NGERS —No. i EDEN QUAY. F-u(therpaTtieulars, TillE TOURIST’S GUIDE,” wMfree accident insurance policy, JNtontUly Bills, &c., free on application to ^A, TAYLOR, Secretary.! P. MANN, General Manager. Chief Ofidce and Stores ;—71 NORTH WALL, DUBLIN. Telegjptpbit; Address—" Glasgow Steamers, Dublin.” »■ D0078125 O C !' ■ i (• .“t i