DUKE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 with funding from Duke University Libraries https://archive.org/details/historyofwhitbys02youn ,wt H*u Ht fatno B Wffl • 'll /dj m KrrHs It flair "ei IV t Y^ft V \ \ , \ ‘VC*** \ > .jJ ’ J vi K.y M ; M ' A HISTORY OF WHITBY, AND ! <1* JU D IT 32 ^ JJ A JJ WITH A STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE VICINITY TO THE Instance of €foontg=ftbo BY THE REV. GEORGE YOUNG, WITH THE ASSISTANCE OF SOME PAPERS LEFT BY THE LATE MR. R. WINTER^ AND SOME MATERIALS FURNISHED BY MR. J. BIRD. WHITBY ARMS. VOL. II. mwn : PRINTED AND SOLD BY CLARK AND MEDD, 60LD ALSO BY LONGMAN AND CO., AND B. FENNEH, LONDON J AND OLIPHANY, WAUGH AND CO., EDINBURGH, 1817. „'!V' ' ' . Ot U- l v \ i CONTENTS OF VOL. II. U \/ BOOK III. HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF WHITBY. Chat. I. General View of the Rise and Progress of the Town, from the earliest accounts to the present times ... Chap. II. Description of the Town in its present State. — Its Extent and Population... Chap. III. The Harbour, Piers, Quays, Draw-bridge, Shipping, Shipbuilding and Manufactures connected with it. Commerce, Whale Fishery, Custom-house Pag* 471 502 529 Chap. IV. Market Place, Markets, Fairs, Trades and Internal Commerce; Government of the Town, Provision for the Poor 671 Chap. V. Places of Worship and Religious Denominations, Pious and Charitable Institutions; Manners, Amuse- ments, and Social Intercourse; State of Learning, and of Morality and Religion 607 BOOK IV. STATISTICAL survey of the VICINITY OF WHITBY, TO the DISTANCE OF TWENTY-FIVE MILES. Chap. I. Topographical Description 643 Chap. II. Antiquities 656 Section I. Houes,druidical remains, & ancient British settlements Ibid, 2. Trenches, camps, forts, and military ways 683 3. Ancient castlts 718 4. Ancient churches, & inscriptions connected with them 740 5. Ancient crosses 753 6. Ancient manufactories 758 7. Miscellaneous antiquities 762 Chap. III. Mineralogy, Botany, and Zoology.... 7o9 Section 1. Mineralogy IbM. 2. Botany 792 3. Zoology 796 Chap. IV. Agriculture, Manufactures and Works; Fisheries... 800 Section 1, Agriculture Ibid. 2. Manufactures and Works 806 3. Fisheries £2# CONTENTS Paze Chap. V. Biography and Family History 824 Chap. VI. Places of Worship; Benevolent Institutions; Popular Customs; State of Morals and Religion 873 Section 1. Places of Worship Ibid. 2 Benevolent Institutions 876 3. Popular Customs and Superstitions . 878 4. State of Morals and Religion 884 Appendix, No. I. Extracts from Domesday, with the modern names, and etymological Notes 885 No- II. On the Rise and Progress of the Papal Power, and the Independence of the ancient British churches 898 No- III. Records and Papers connected with the History of Whitby Abbey 906 No. IV. Papers relating to Guisborough Priory ... 938 Addenda 944 List of Wood Cuts in both Volumes. Rievaux Abbey, Vignette, Title A ol. T. Whitby Inscription - - p, 311. GuisboroughPriory, ( given &elcm>)424 Itosedale Priory - - - - 437. Ditto Inscription - - 438. WhitbyArms-Vignette, Title Vol. II, Ditto Bridge p. t>13. Ditto Townhall - - - - 589. Cawthorn Camps - • - - 694. July Park Inscription - - 703. Ravenhill Inscription - - p. 708. Kirkdale ditto ... 743. Edstone ditto - - 747. Scarborough ditto - - 751. Whitby Cross - - - 753. Alum Garth 759. Wainstones Inscription 768. Bride-stones - - - - 775. Hob-hole - - - - - 776. Whitby Seal - - - 936. BOOK III. HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF WHITBY. CHAP. I. General View of the Rise and Progress of the Town, from the earliest accounts to the present times. IN a former part of this work, I have tried to set aside the received opinion, that the place where Whitby now stands was so considerable in the Roman period, as to be furnished with a pharos , or light- house; and that this circumstance gave rise to the Saxon name Streoneshalh, supposed to signify Light- house Bay. In combating this notion, however, I would not be understood to maintain, that the Romans had no settlement in this place; or that it was not a habitation of the Britons previous to their arrival. The inlet which forms our harbour, must have ren- dered it a desirable residence for fishermen and sea- faring people, ever since navigation was practised on the coast; while the lofty cliffs, especially on the east side of the Esk, afforded a favourable situation for erecting a place of defence. The mutilated state of the cliffs, battered and wasted away by the storms and tempests of so many ages, will scarcely admit materials Tor research ; yet foundations of buildings. 472 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. and even streets, are still very discernible in the fields that are on the verge of the cliffs adjacent to the church-yard; and in all probability, some of those foundations are of very ancient date. About three years ago, Elizabeth Mills, an inhabitant of Whitby, found on the scar, at the foot of these cliffs, a piece of gold weighing 2 dvvts. ]-| gr. which she sold to Mr. John Morrell, from whom it was purchased by the author. From the situation in which it was found, it is more than probable that it had at some time or other been washed down from the cliff, from among the ruins of old Streoneshalh. It is not a coin, but is of an oval form, flattened by repeated strokes of the hammer ; and in undergoing this operation it has been cracked at one end. As it is not adapted for any kind of ornament, having no perforation, nor any pro- jecting point, it is most likely that it was intended to be used as a coin, and we may suppose it to belong to that ancient era, when unstamped pieces of the precious metals were circulated as money. It is pos- sible, however, that it may belong to the Roman era, and had been intended for a coin; but having cracked under the moneyer’s hammer, it was not stamped, but put aside ; and, by some accident or other, was brought hither and lost. Though the name of this town or port does not occur in any of the Roman records, yet when we consider how near it is approached by the Roman road, which will afterwards be described, there cannot be a doubt that it was a place of some conse- quence under their government, and that their coasting RISE AND PRODRESS. 473 vessels frequented the harbour; which is the principal iuiet in the small bay supposed to be the Dunum Sinus of Ptolemy.* If the Romans had any fort here, it probably stood on the east cliff, near where the abbey was afterwards built; this being the most advantageous situation :f but it is likely that they had other habitations on the west side of the Esk, from whence there was a more easy communication with the Roman road, and with Dunsley where it is thought to have terminated. The only Roman coin known to have been found in Whitby was discovered on this side of the water, li is a beautiful silver denarius of Hadrian, § and being found deep in the earth, by some workmen digging a foundation for a house in Rackdale J * In addition to the conjectures already advanced respecting the name S'tjreonej’halh (p 142 — 147, 241. Note) I may here remark, that it may possibly be a Saxon translation of Dunum Sinus. The Saxon word halh is properly rendered sinus; and ptpeone or prjieon (supposing it to come from ptjieopau — stcrnere) might be used to denote a tower, fort, or station (as being raised by putting one stra- tum over another successively), and might therefore correspond with the latinized Celtic word Dunum, applied to so many Roman forts in Britain and Gaul. If this conjecture can be admitted, and if we sup- pose that by far us Bede meant nothing more than a dunum or tower at the mouth of our harbour, then Sinus fari will be synonymous with Dunum Sinus; and SrjieonejT.alh, corresponding with both, may be rendered Tower-Bap, or Tower-Harbour. In that case. Dunum Sinus will be the ancient name of our port, rather than of Dunsley bay. ' In support of this conjecture, it may be noticed, that towers, supposed to be Roman phari, have been discovered at Dover, and other sea-ports. Gough’s Camden, I. p. 245. f Leland observed how convenient the site of our abbey was for a fortress : “ Locus ubi nunc ccenobium est videtur mihi esse arx inexpugnabilis.” Coll. III. p. 40. § The legend on the obverse is; HADRIANVS AVGVSTVS: on the reverse; COS. III. The head of Hadrian is an excellent impression ; the figure on the reverse is Pallas (or perhaps Bellona) sitting on what appear to be spoils, having a spear in her right hand, and a small instrument (perhaps a sistrum) in her left. Hadrian’s 3rd consulship was in the year of our Lord 120. 3 p 474 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. several years ago, it proves that the Romans frequented this place in the reign of that emperor, or not long after. Whether any other Roman remains appeared on the spot where the coin was found, has not been ascertained; for as no particular notice was taken of it at the time, and as it was not even known to be a Roman coin till it was given to the author a few months ago, the discovery did not lead to any further investigation. After the departure of the Romans, this place seems to have been little frequented till the days of lady Hilda; when numbers, attracted by the celebrity of her monastery, took up their abode in its neigh- bourhood. Under iElfieda her successor, the port appears to have had some shipping belonging to it; for we find that abbess taking a voyage with some of the brethren, as far as Coquet isle, to meet St. Cutn- bert.* The principal part of the town, in that age and during the rest of the Saxon period, was on the east cliff, near the abbey ; yet there can be no doubt that the fishermen, the boat-builders, and others con- nected with sea-faring concerns, would have their habitations on the banks of the river below, some on the east side and some on the west. When the abbey was ruined by the Danes, the town of Streoneshalh shared the same fate ; and, when, after the lapse of 200 years, the monastery was re- stored, the town revived also. About that time, it obtained the modern name Whitby, or White-town; * See p. 218, 225. RISE AND PROGRESS . 475 and the name Presteby, or Priest-town , was then also occasionally given, either to the town itself or to one of its appendages.* It was then chiefly situated on the east cliff, and contained but few inhabitants; for there w r ere only 10 villanes and 3 bordars in the de- mesne of Whitby and Sneaton, and 8 sokemen and 30 villanes in the dependencies of the manor. f But in proportion as the abbey grew in riches and respect- ability, the town increased in size and importance; and not only occupied a part of the east cliff, near the monastery, but extended itself southward along the east bank of the Esk, and also ascended the gentle declivity on the opposite bank, towards the west. As the port of Whitby was granted to the monks by Wm. de Percy, and as the fishermen of Whitby are noticed about the same period, the lower part of the town must have been inhabited soon after the conquest, if not before: and, in process of time, the largest por- tion of the town was below, most of the secular inha- bitants having their houses on the banks of the river, or on the declivities on each side; while the upper part of the town was chiefly occupied by the offices of the monastery, and the dwellings of its immediate servants and dependants. Before the year 1189, the town of Whitby had become so considerable, that the abbot Richard II, with the consent of the whole chapter, granted his charter for erecting it into a borough, with privileges similar to those conferred on other boroughs about * See p. 240 — 242. t Bawdwen’s Domesday, p. 64, 65. 3 r 2 476 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. that period. By this charter, the town was to be a free borough for ever ; the burgesses there were to have free laws and rights, to have common right of pasturage in the fields belonging to the town, to hav@ four ways for coming in and going out, and to be exempted from all services due to the monks, except 5d. yearly for every toft, half of which was to be paid, at whitsuntide and half at martin mas : but no one was to sell his property in the town, without offering it in (he first instance to the abbot, who might purchase it at a tair price ; and if he declined the purchase, it might then, with his advice and consent, be sold to another, and the purchaser, on receiving seizin, should pay 4d. to the ahbot and Id. to the burgesses for beverage. With regard to the administration of justice, the char- ter provided, that if any burgess should have a com- plaint against another, he should go to his house three times and demand satisfaction, and if he did not obtain it, on the third demand, he should then apply for re- dress to the justice-court of the town, which was tc be held at three terms in the year, the first after epiphany, the second after caster, and the third after the feast of St. Hilda : it being understood, that if any cause should occur at one term which could not then be decided, it should be determined without further delay at the term following. This charter was to take effect from the feast of St. James the apostle (July 25) next after the signing of it.* * Reg. Whit. f. 66. Ch. p. 144, 145. The precise year in -which this charter was granted cannot be ascertained: Charlton dates it ia 1185. A copy of the charter will be given in the Appendix. RISE AND PROGRESS. 477 The privileges thus conferred on the town of Whitby, were soon after confirmed by a royal char- ter; and had no unfair means been employed to set them aside, Whitby might now have been a royal 'borough, enjoying the right of sending members to parliament. But the liberties of Whitby were of short duration; the monks, jealous of their rights, repented of their liberality to the town ; and Peter, the next abbot, procured from the venal court of king John a repeal of the charter which his predecessor had granted. It was in the 1st year of king John, in the latter part of 1199, or rather the first part of 1200, that the abbot attempted to divest the town of its newly-acquired rights. He made request to the king, “That the burgesses of Whitebi should not be allowed to use the liberties granted them by the abbot and convent of Whitebi, and confirmed by the charter of our lord the king, till it was determined in the king’s court, whether the abbot and convent bad power to give them those liberties and this request was se- conded by a present of 100 marks. The citizens did not tamely surrender their privileges without a strug- gle: Wm. Clerk, Ralph the son of Sudof, and Simon de Keseburn, requested “for themselves and the whole town of Whitebi, To have a confirmation of their liberties, as the same had been confirmed and granted them by the abbot and monks of Whitebi.” But alas! they fell short in those arguments that were necessary to give due weight to their plea; for their present was but fourscore marks. Hence, after a short delay, the king granted a charter to the abbot Peter, dated 478 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Jan. 13. 1201, assuring 1 him that he would not con= firm “ the chaster of Richard de Watervill, late abbot of Witebi, and of (he convent of the same place, which the burgesses of Witeby have, and which is inconsist- ent with the dignity of the church of Witeby/’ Not* withstanding this defeat, the burgesses renewed the contest; for it appears from the roils of the exchequer, that, in the 3d year of king John, the abbct, besides giving 100 marks to prevent the confirmation of Richard de Watervill’s charter to the burgesses, paid also £100; “That the cause between him and the burgesses of Whilebi, concerning the charter of Richard de Watervill and the convent of Whitebi, might he heard before the king; and that it might there be tried, whether the abbot and convent of Whitebi had power to give liberties of that kind to the burgesses of Whitebi.”* The result of this trial * Abbas de Wbitebi debet C marcas, Ut burgenses de Whitebi non possint uti libertatibus sibi concessis ab abbate et conveutu de Wbitebi, et carta clomini regis confirmatis, donee judicatuni sit in curia regis, si abbas et conventus eis dare potuerunt illas iibertates : Willeimus Clericus, et Raduifus filius Sudof, et Simon de Keseborn, debent quater XX marcas, pro se et tota villata de Whitebi, Pro habenda confirmatione de libertatibus suis, sicut abbas et monachi ds Whitebi eis confirmaverunt et concesserunt. Mag. Rot, L J. Rot. 4. b. Everwichscira. Johannes rex. Sciatis nos concessisse P. abbati de Witebi, quod carta Ricardi de Watervill quondam abbatis de Witebi et conventus ejusdem loci, quam burgenses de Witeby habent, et quas est contra dignitatem ecclesiae de Witeby , non confirmabitur a nobis. Uat. 13. Januarii. Chart. 2. J. m. 16. n. 42. Abbas de Wbitebi debet C marcas, ne carta Ricardi de Watervill quondam ab- batis de Wbitebi et conventus confirraetur a rege. idem abbas debet C libras, Ut loquela inter ipsum et burgenses de Whitebi, de carta Ricardi de Watervill et conventus de Whitebi, audiatur coram rege, et discutiatur ibidem, utrum abbas et conventus de Whitebi potuerunt dare hujusmodi Iibertates burgensibus de Whitebi. Mag. Rot. 3. J Rot. 12. b. Everwichscira. See Madox’s Hist, of the Exche- quer, p. 357, 73, 67. Notes. RISE AND PROGRESS. 479 is not particularly recorded, yet we are certain that it went against the burgesses, who were thus stript of their liberties, when they had enjoyed them little more than 10 years. The name burgesses continued to be given to some of the more respectable inhabitants of Whitby, especially to the jury who served in the court-leet; several tenements in the town, perhaps most of those in the ancient part of it, were called burgage tenements ; and some of the assessments levied on the town were called burgage dues : but while the name remained, the substance was irreco- verably lost. As the charter of Richard de Watervill was can- celled, it is needless to inquire minutely into the nature and extent of the privileges which it granted to the town. We may observe, however, from that charter, that there were then four principal ways into Whitby; and it is by no means improbable that they were the extremities of those four streets called gates or ways ;* viz. Haggersgtfte, FlowergaZe, and Baxtergnte, on the west side of the Esk, and Kirkg’«te (which now receives the modern name Church Street ) on the east. This last ascended the east bank in the direc- tion of Spital Brigg, where the hospital stood ; and by this way the York road then proceeded, as well as the roads for Stainsacre and Hawsker, and for Larpool and Sneaton. Haggersgate led towards the west sands, Flowergate towards Dunsley, Lyth, &c. * The term gate, applied to parts of towns or villages in the north of England and in Scotland, is for the most part synonymous with street or way. 480 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. and Baxtergate towards Stakesby, Ruswarp, and other places. The names of these four principal streets, or gates , do not however occur in anv record for several years after the time of the abbot Richard II, nor were their names the same in former da^s as they are now. The street called Flora or Flore , afterwards Floregate , and now Flower gate , occurs in the charter of Walter the son of Godfrid, in the time of Roger, who was abbot of Whitby from 1222 to 1244 ; and it is observable, that among the witnesses to that charter we find William the merchant and William the dyer, a proof that even at this early date Whitby Avas not a mere fishing town. This street is also named in the charter of Geoffrey York, in 126? ; in that of Thomas de Bermingham, in 1294; and in the lease granted to Richard Landmote in 1313.* This street derives its name from an appendage to Whitby manor, which in the charters of the Percy family is called Flora and Flore, and in Domesday Flo run ; and Which seems to have been bounded by the lands of Stakesby on the south, the cliffs on the north, the river Esk on the east, and Upgang beck on the west. The name seems to have no connection with flowers, or with the goddess Flora, but rather with the word floor, the territory so denominated being comparatively flat.f Kirk gate occurs in 1318, in the charter of Alexander Her, and the lease given to John At-te-kelde. Hakelsougate, the old name of * See p. 356, 357. R. f. 1—4. Ch. p 197, 219, 230, 237. The word floor is in Saxon ylojre. I know more than one town where there are level fields in the neighbourhood called The Floors. RISE AND PROGRESS. 481 Haggersgate, is found in the charter of Hugh Suanball, who had a shop and sollar there, towards the street. This charter belongs to the year 1296, or to the end of the 13th century. The Abbot’s book mentions other honses in Whitby about the same period, with- out naming the streets where they stood: and among the tradesmen then in the town we find Alexander the weaver, Roger the dyer, William the fuller, and William the smith * Baxtergate does not occur in the Register, and hence some have imagined that it is a modern street ; nay, we are told that the place where it stands was overflowed by the tide at the time of the dissolution, and that no house existed there “ till near fifty years after, when some part of it being gained from the sea, and staithed off, it took the de- nomination of Baxtergate from a bakehouse.”f But these are groundless conjectures : nor is there any good reason for supposing that Baxtergate is less an- cient than Haggersgate, which is named but once in the Register. There are indubitable proofs of its being a respectable street, with houses on both sides, so early as the year 1574, within 35 years of the dis- solution ; at which date the street of Baxtergate is called the king’s high way ( via regia ) ; — a clear proof that it was not then a half-formed street, newly staithed off from the sea, but one of the principal streets in the town. In proof of its antiquity, I may also notice, that several tenements in Baxtergate were then called bprgage tenements, which name they still * See p. 355, 356. R. f. 2, 3, 4. Ch. p. 229, 230, 231, 238, 239. f Charlton, p. 145, 288. 3 482 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. retain; that they had garths, gardens, orchards, &c belonging to them; and that, besides the Cholmley family, several other respectable families had posses- sions in this street, as Sir Thomas Gower, Sir William Gascoygne, Nicholas Conyers, Esq. of Bagdale Hall, the Busbells, Linskills, &e. To which may be added, that in the descriptions of the property in that street, about the era referred to, staiths are rarely men- tioned: the premises on the north side of the street reached to those belonging to the south side of Flower- gate ; while those on the opposite side are described in some instances as bounded on the south by the river Esk, in others by Bagdale beck (then frequently called the Slike ) and by the Walker Sands, the name then given to the sands which reached from Bagdale beck to Boghall, now occupied by the ship-yards and the ropery. It is observable, that the Horse-mill, already noticed (p. 373), is mentioned so early as 1595; at which date there were two houses called the Herring- houses on the north side of the street, where perhaps herrings were formerly cured or sold. Nor must I omit to state, that on or near the very spot where the present Baxtergate chapel stands, there was property belonging to the parish church of Whitby in 1574; which was bought by the Bushell family in 1599 or 1600. The name of the street, instead of owing its origin to a bakehouse, appears to be derived from a family of the name of Baxter, who had considerable property there.* It is probable, however, that the * In a charter of Sir Thomas Gower, dated Sept. 30, 1616, granting to Wm, Beck of Whitby, freemason, that burgage tenement. RISE AND PROGRESS. 4S3 name JBaxtergate was not coeval with the street itself; hut what was the original name, or whether it ever had any other name, has not been ascertained. On the whole, there is little reason to doubt that one of the four principal ways into Whitby, mentioned in the charter of Richard de Watervill, entered by this street. There was the more propriety in calling the streets of Whitby at that era gates, gaites , or ways , as they were very unlike the streets of the present day. When we speak of one of those ancient streets, we must not form in our minds the idea of a well-paved causeway, with a row of contiguous houses on either side; but figure to ourselves a kind of open, irregular road, scarcely paved at all, with the lands on both sides divided into tofts and half tofts, each containing one or more houses or cottages, with some space in- tervening, having a garden or garth behind, and perhaps a small garth in front.* Such were the streets of Whitby for many ages after the time of the abbot Richard IT ; and while the streets were very irregular &c. in Baxtergate, now belonging lo Mr. Edward Nettleship, Sir Thomas warrants the property not only against Ins own heirs, but against the heirs of John Baxter of Newcastle upon Tyne deceased ; by which it appears that the Baxter family had formerly a claim on the premises. The other facts stated above are given on the authority of this record and several others in the possession of Mr. Nettleship, the charters of the families of Conyers, Bushell, and Newton (successive proprietors of Bagdale), in the possession of Henry Simpson, Esq., and several deeds in the possesion of Mr. William Collier, relating to his house and the adjoining premises. * Hence the tenements in the streets of Whitby in former times were not described as adjoining to the houses of the next neighbours but to their lands. By not attending to this circumstance, Charlton (p. 30S) has been led to fancy that there was but one house near the Old Market Place in 1609. 3 Q 2 484 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. in their form, the houses were for the most part thatched cottages, constructed in the simplest man- ner, bearing no resemblance to the elegant mansions of modern times. Though there is no reason to suppose, that Bax- tergate was overflowed by the sea so late as the time of the dissolution, yet it is worthy of remark, that not only a part of that street, but a considerable portion of Church street, and other streets on the banks of tbe river, must have been originally built where beds of sand were once thrown up. The remains of these beds of sands have often been met with on digging out cellars or foundations, both in the east end of Baxtergate, and in several parts of Church street and other streets, even in situations far above the present high-water mark.* Hence it would appear, that the town has been gradually gaining from (he sea; and that a large proportion of it has been literally built on the sand. It may also be remarked, that a portion of Church street, comprising the Cockpit yard and other premises, adjoining to the opening called Alder’s Waste Ghaut, was anciently called Fair Isle , perhaps from its being occasionally surrounded by the tide. Whether that Isle received the name Fair from its beauty, or from its being the place near which the fairs were held, I will not venture to determine. f * For instance, in the cellar below the shop of Messrs. Clark and Medd (the printers of this work), which is several feet above tbe level of the tide. It is said that ancient mooring posts have been dis- covered on digging in Baxtergate ; and the same discovery has been made in some parts of Church street, f Alder’s Waste or Alder Waste was so called from a family of the name of Alder who had property there. RISE AND PROGRESS. 4S-5 It would be gratifying to the curious reader, to be able to trace the progress of the town, in the in- crease of its streets and lanes, the alterations of their names, and the improvements which they have succes- sively undergone: but the materials for such investi- gations are too scanty to admit of any thing more than a very imperfect sketch. Of the progress of Whitby, from 1320 till some time after the dissolution, we have scarcely any ac- count. Leland, who visited it about the year 1538, calls it HISTORY OF THE TOWN. the street. The houses on the east side of this street are comparatively modern, as well as those at both ends of the Bridge. In 1762, a new and elegant street, proceeding northward from the top of Flowergate began to be formed; and it was called Skinner street , from the name of the respectable family who purchased the ground where it was formed, previously called Farn- dale fields . — Not many years after, a narrow street or lane, called Silver street, was begun, running parallel to Skinner street and Cliff' lane, in the space between them, but nearest to the former. At the north end of this street, there was formerly a yard where tiles were made, on the premises now belong- ing- to John Holt,jun. Esq. — About the same era, or shortly after, that beautiful street called the New Buildings, running westward along the north side of Flowergate lane, beyond Skinner street, began to be built. Several other streets, but much less consider- able, have been formed in the same direction. The ancient streets of Whitby about the year 1600, and even in 1650, were mere skeletons com- pared with what they now are. In proportion to the increase of the population, and the consequent de- mand for houses, the front ground was gradually filled up with buildings, so as to form a line of contiguous houses, on each side cf every street; leaving, at con- venient intervals, passages to the garths behind ; and Hits** garths, having houses erected on them, were converted by degrees into crowded yards. In the RISE AND PROGRESS. 497 eldest streets, viz. Church street. Grape lane. Flower- gate, Baxtergate, and Haggersgate (including Staith- side and the Crag), great numbers of these yards have been formed, distinguished by the names of their principal owners, or by some accidental circumstances. The extent of these yards, and the intervals between them, may give us some idea of the dimensions of the tofts and half tofts of former ages. Like the streets, they have often changed their names, and some names rather singular have fallen into disuse: thus, the Fair Isle in Church street has become (most of it at least) the Cockpit yard, and Doctor lane in Baxtergate has assumed the uncouth designation of Loggerhead yard. In these instances, the change of the name has arisen from casual circumstances; in most others, it has pro- ceeded from a change of owners.*' Whitby was considered as "a well built town” in the reign of Charles II. f It might be so for that age, but it was poor and insignificant when compared with the present town. At that era, and for a long time after, the houses, with a few exceptions, were but thatched cottages, and the streets were dirty and in- commodious. The windows were all of little diamond penny panes, or small oblong two-penny panes. The first sashed window was put up about the year 1725, * Cockpit yard is so (jailed from a eockpit which was there some years ago : Loggerhead yard has received its title from the logger- head of a ship fixed against the wall at the top of the yard. Doctor lane, probably so named from being the residence of some surgeon, must have been either the same, or close by it. The name occurs in 1677 and 1710, in deeds relating to the house of Mr. Robert Rout- ledge and the adjacent premises. f Rlome’s Britannia, p. 251. Sec also Ogilby’s Britannia Depicta. 3 s 498 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. and both town and country gazed at it as a prodigy. The rents of houses, then esteemed good, were from 40s. to £5 yearly ; nor was there one let so high as <£10 till the year 1740, though several of the princi- pal inhabitants lived in houses of their own of greater value.* The streets, being then without pavement except at the sides, were worn deep and hollow ; and the waste water, having no drains for its reception, formed a current in the midst, where it sometimes stagnated. In the winter season, the streets, especially at the entrances of the town, were scarcely passable; hut, for the accommodation of the inhabitants, some of the principal streets had narrow walks, paved with flags, in front of the houses. These walks were most remarkable in Flowergate, especially on the south side, where the pavement was greatly elevated above the middle of the street, with steps descending from one part of the walk to another, and other steps, at different places, leading down to the street. The high walk at the top of Scate lane may give us some idea of the form of those pavements. It was not till after the year 1750, that our streets were materially im- proved, and began to assume that respectable appear- ance which they now wear. Since that time, a great proportion of the oldest houses have been rebuilt, or modernised ; the thatched cottages have given place to neat and commodious dwellings, roofed with tiles ; and, besides the addition of whole streets already no- ticed, the town has been adorned with numbers of new * These facts are chiefly furnished fey the papers of Mr. William Chapman, mentioned in p. 283. RISE AND PROGRESS. 499 and stately mansions, among which those erected in Bagdale hold a distinguished place. The revolutions of property, that have occurred in Whitby since the surrender of the abbey, are not less remarkable than the changes produced on the face of the town. It is true that, by the singular favour of Providence, the same worthy family, which obtained the manor of Whitby soon after the dissolution, con- tinues to possess it. But it will be difficult to find any other inheritance here that has continued in one family for 200 years, or even 150 years. The houses and landed property, in Whitby and the vicinity, have, during that period, repeatedly passed from one family to another; and, in some instances, the transfers have followed each other in rapid succession. The numer- ous conveyances and other documents, examined in tracing the history of the streets, present a striking picture of the instability of earthly possessions. Fami- lies, like states, have their rise, their decline, and their fall. Names that in Whitby were once connected with rank and opulence, such as Conyers, Gascoigne, Bushell, Newton, Linskill, Fairfax, Bagwith, and many others, have either vanished from the place, or sunk into obscurity ; while others that were once obscure have risen to distinction. Such are the vicis- situdes of human life. “ They that buy should be as though they possessed not ; — for the fashion of this world passeth away.” At the time of the surrender, a great proportion ©f the houses in Whitby belonged to the monks ; an 3 s 2 500 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. effect resulting from the regulation of Richard de Watervill, which secured to the abbot the first offer of every house that was for sale. A great part of the town therefore came into the hands of Henry VIII, and afterwards to the Cholmley family. The purchase of Sir Richard Cholmley included 400 houses, viz. 300 messuages and 100 cottages : and of these houses we may suppose 100 or 150 to have been in the town of Whitby.* A few houses and parcels of land, in or near Whitby, appear to have remained in possession of the crown ; for, in 1608 and 1630, there was land belonging to the king in that part of Haggles ey gate now called the Crag; and, in 1595, there was crown land near the place now called Spring gardens, ad- joining to the narrow dale or valley called th eArrun- dells . f It is possible, however, that these lands might come to the crown by forfeiture, or by want of heirs. There are still two houses in Whitby held by lease from the crown ; one in Church street, and one * There were also 200 gardens, 2 water-mills, one wind-mill, 10,000 acres of land, 1000 acres of meadow, 10,000 acres of pasture, &c. the whole situated in Whitby, Larpool, W 7 hitby Lathes, Staiusacre, Hawsker, Fyling, Stakesby, Wragby, Springhill, Sneton, and Dales- head, 1 his appears from a copy of the fine on occasion of the bargain between Sir Richard Cholmley and Sir John York. From this docu- ment I perceive that the name Sir Edward, which (on the authority of Sir Hugh Cholmley’s Memoirs) I have applied to the latter in page 463, is incorrect. The windmill was on a small eminence, still re- maining, a little to the east of the abbey, and was in the tenure of George Bushell. Some fields adjacent to it were called the Windmill Jlals. The Almshouse close seems to have been then called th eFermcry garth, that is, the Infirmary garth ; though it is possible that this garth may have been the field on the north side of the abbey plain, which is a very likely place for the site of the iufirmary. f So called from a respectable family then in Whitby, perhaps descended from the Arundels of Sneaton. In the church Register for 1657 the marriage of “Anthony Arrundell of this parish, gent.” occurs. RISE AND PROGRESS. 501 in Haggersgate. — But there were also several tene- ments in Whitby, at the surrender, which were private property. In 1553, William Cholmley bought of Edward Trott, &c. half a toft in Flowergate, on the south side; and this was bounded on the east by the property of the heirs of Matthew' Baxter;* and there were several other freehold tenements in Whitby at that time, as there are still. — Most of the property in the town which came to the Cholmley family, is now held on leases for 1000 years, granted chiefly by Sir Hugh Cholmley in 1638, and by William Cholmley, Esq. in 1654. Each tenement is subject to an yearly rent or acknowledgment, to be paid if demanded. In general it is from 2d. to 6d.; in one instance I find it to be only 3 peppercorns ; in another 5 d, and 2 fat hens at candlemas. This acknowledgment was an- ciently called toft rent . — Before the year 1600, there was property on each side of the water, belonging to the parish church, which had probably been devoted to the use of the church prior to the dissolution. How it came to be alienated I have not discovered. f * John Baxter held it in 1592 : from that family Buxtergate received its name. They had property reaching from Flowergate to Baxtergate, and from thence to Bagdale heck, f Most of the facts stated in this chapter are taken from charters, conveyances, &c. in the possession of Henry Simpson, Esq. Richard Rudyard, Esq. Jonathan Sanders, Esq. &c. &c. The author takes this opportunity of express- ing his obligations to all those ladies and gentlemen who politely suf- fered him to examine their records. 502 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. CHAP. II. DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN IN ITS PRESENT STATE ITS EXTENT AND POPULATION. HAVING inquired into the history of Whitby from the earliest times, let us proceed to take a nearer view of its present aspect, and its geographical position. The town of Whitby, or, more strictly speaking, the abbey, is situated in 54° 29' 24" north latitude, and in 35' 59" west longitude. The variation of the compass was ascertained in 1811 to be 24° 49' west.* The river Esk divides the town into two parts, of which that on the west side is largest. The town is at the very mouth of the river ; the north-east end of Hen- rietta street being only 100 yards from the edge of the precipice overhanging the sea; and the north end of the Crag being less than 160 yards from high-water mark at the Battery, while the guardhouse and other buildings beside the Battery may be said to abut on the German ocean. The direction of the river, which runs nearly due north at its influx into the sea, deter- mines the direction of the town, which stretches along the banks on each side. These banks rise suddenly on both sides, especially on the east, leaving but a * The Latitude and Longitude here given may be relied on as correct, if the calculations of Colonel Mudge can be depended on ; Whitby being connected with his stations, by several observations made by Mr. Winter, the accuracy of which has been established by more recent observations. PRESENT STATE. 503 very narrow strip of level ground below, of which a considerable portion has been gained, at various times, from the bed of the river. This harrow space is lite- rally crammed with houses ; yet the town is not con- fined here, but boldly ascends the steep cliffs on either side, assuming a romantic appearance, especially when viewed from the sea. It seems like a multitude of ir- regular terraces rising one above another, in various forms; while the effect is increased by the old weather- beaten church looking down from the verge of the eastern cliff, and the venerable ruins of the abbey appearing behind it. On the east, the progress of the town seems arrested by the abruptness of the cliff, and very few houses have gained the summit; but on the west, where the ascent, except in the north part, is more gradual, the town has not only reached the top of the bank, but has spread itself westward into the adjacent fields ; while a considerable portion recedes from the Esk, in a south-west direction, running up the sheltered vale of Bagdale. Had the town been built a little further up the river, the steep banks might have been wholly avoided ; for beyond Bagdale beck there is only a gentle slope as far as Boghall, along the space that was once called the Walker sands; and on the opposite bank, near Spital bridge, there is also a gentle declivity, though not to the same extent. But the first founders of Whitby had no idea that it would ever require so much room : besides, they were desir- ous of getting as near to the sea as possible, for the «onvenience of fishing ; for even at this day, all our 504 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. fishermen live in those parts of the town that are nearest the mouth of the riv-er. The eastern half of the town is the longest, being three quarters of a mile in length, from the north end of Henrietta street to the south end of the houses im- mediately beyond Spital bridge ;* but its breadth is very inconsiderable, not amounting to 150 yards even where it is broadest. Church street constitutes the principal part of this half of VYhitby; for all the other streets on this side put together are not equal to the half of Church street, either in extent or population. Its length from the first turning at the Church-stair- foot to the foot of Green lane is 950 yards, being more than half a mile ; but, if considered as extending to the houses beside Spital bridge, it will measure al- most 1100 yards. In the north part, and towards the middle, it is extremely crowded ; especially on the east side, where numbers of populous yards climb the steep bank behind, on w r hose sides houses are seen perched in situations almost inaccessible. Each of these ascending yards is furnished with flights of stone steps, often very steep, and sometimes proceeding in a zigzag or irregular direction. On the opposite side, the yards have a descent towards the water ; but these are much shorter and fewer. In several places the street has no yards on this side ; and near the south * It is necessary to remark, that the length of the town, and of the several streets, here given, includes the windings of the streets. The distance between Burathouses (Mr. Reynold’s house) and the east pier head, measured along Church street, and by Henrietta street, is a mile and about 100 yards; but the geometrical or rectilineal dis- tance is considerably less than a mile. / PRESENT STATE. 505 end there is a considerable space where there are no houses towards the river. Part of this space, however, is occupied by the Docks. Near this end, there are also some vacant spaces on the side next the cliff. One remarkable opening, forming a sloping square, is called Boulby-bank , from the name of Adam Boulby, Esq. To the south of this, are some extensive tiers of houses, which, being all divided into small tenements, swarm with inhabitants. These houses are called Ripley’s buildings, having been erected by the late Mr. John Ripley. An open interval, a little fur- ther south is no tv filling up by Mr. Gideon Smales, with similar buildings, but more handsome, rising in like manner, in parallel ranges, one above another. Near the termination of this street, at the foot of Green lane, is a row of houses, named Prospect row, which has lately begun to ascend the south side of that lane. — The other streets on this side the Esk occupy but little ground. Henrietta street, which notwith- standing its disaster is still populous, does not exceed 175 yards in length. Between the south end of this street and the north end of Church street, lies a cluster of buildings, about 120 yards in circumference, in the form of an irregular square, or rather in a multangu- lar form, having a street or passage all around, though on the west side the passage is narrow. To the lower part of these buildings, on the west and north, toge- ther with the houses opposite in the same direction, the name Tate hill is appropriated; while the remain- ing part belong to the Church-stair-foot * which also * The most lofty of these buildings, facing Church street, are also termed Monkmun’s buildings, having been erected by a Mr. Monkman. 3 T me HISTORY OF THE TOWN. includes the opposite buildings on the south. These last, comprehending a large yard denominated Kiln- gwt'th from a malt kiln that was once on that spot, may be considered as the lower part of Church lane, that ascends on the south side of the church-yard. This lane, which has no houses on it, except on the south towards the bottom, is too steep and narrow for the ascent of carriages ; so that hearse funerals on their way to the church-yard, as well as all waggons and other carriages going the Hawsker road, must go round by Green lane. Had former generations fore- seen the frequent use of carriages by their posterity, they might have prevented the inconvenience of this circuitous rout, by forming a sloping road towards Church street from the abbey plain, across the corner of the Almshouse close, before the tofts on that side of the street were covered with houses.* — The streets which lie between Church street and the harbour are all small and crowded. Grape lane is near 100 yards long ; Sandgate measures 73 yards to the Market- place, and, if extended to Brewster lane, about 110 yards. These two streets. Grape lane and Sandgate, are often called the Low streets. The cross streets leading direct from Church street towards the harbour, viz. Bridge street, Ellerby lane, Brewster lane, and * A road might still be formed without much difficulty, down the Almshouse close to the opening at Boulby bank ; and, by removing a few houses near the top of that bank on the north side, the asceut might be made as easy as that by way of Green lane. This would shorten the distance above one half: for the distance from Whitby bridge to the church-yard gate by Green lane is a mile, and about 550 yards more; by Boulby bank it would be only 50 or 60 yards above half a mile : by Church lane the distance is only about 560 yards. In each of these instances the road is supposed to come by Bridge street. PRESENT STATE. 507 the New way, are very short, none of them exceeding 55 yards; unless we consider the Bridge-end as a part of Bridge street, which will make that street near 80 yards in length. There are many handsome and well built houses on the east side of the river; but the streets, as may be expected from the situation of the town, are all narrow. The Low streets are in some places scarcely 4 yards broad : and even Church street is in some parts not quite 5 yards, though in a few places it ex- ceeds 10. The western division of Whitby is the largest, the most compact, and the most elegant. The low part of the town follows the course of the river upward till it approaches Bagdale beck, when it turns to the right, and accommodates itself to the direction of that stream The greatest length of this part of the town, from the furthest houses in Bagdale to the furthest inhabited houses on the Crag is just half a mile : of which space Bagdale occupies 200 yards ; Baxtergate, about 320 ; Staithside, 105 ; Haggersgate, 80 ; and the Crag about 175. Besides those regular streets, there are several houses, some of which are beautiful and finely situated, scattered along the western bank of the Esk beyond Bagdale beck, near the Docks and Ship-yards, and terminating at Boghall, nearly oppo- site Spital bridge. Were we to view these straggling houses as part of the town, the length of this western division would be doubled ; for the distance between Boghall and the Battery, by Bagdale bridge and 3 t 2 608 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Baxtergate, is fully a mile. If the length be taken in another line, terminating with the Mount, on the top of the bank above the Crag, the extent will be short- ened; for the distance from thence to the extremity of Bagdale is only about 710 yards ; viz. the Mount, 85 ; Clifflane, ISO ; thence to the top of Scate lane, 55 ; Scate lane, near 190; and Bagdale, as before, 200.* Were the line carried from Scate lane to Boghall, in- stead of the end of Bagdale, it would measure 1500 yards. It is observable, that Scate lane. Cliff lane. Silver street, and Skinner street are nearly of one length ; and to this list we might add Bagdale, Flower- gate, the Crag, and Henrietta street; the difference between them being very trivial.-The greatest breadth of this division of Whitby, from the outmost part of the west Bridge-end to Flowergate cross, at the top of the New buildings, is about 600 yards ; viz. from the extremity of the west Bridge-end to the foot of Flowergate, about 70 yards; Flowergate, a little above 200 ; and the New buildings, 330.f — The streets on this side the Esk are of very different breadths ; Baxtergate, Staithside, Haggersgate, the middle street of the Crag, Cliff lane, the Mount, Scate lane, and Silver street are in most parts narrow and incommo- * In these calculations I have reckoned the house of Mr. Corne- lius Clark, the furthest in Bagdale : if we count Bagdale manufactory a part of the street, it will then he 400 yards long, f Were the line extended to Field-house, the elegant mansion of Christopher Richard- son, Esq. the distance would be above 300 yards more. Flowergate is considered as terminating at Skinner street. It may be here added, that the distance (by Bridge street) between the end of the Crag and the houses at Spital bridge is 1400 yards, which is above three quar- ters of a mile: the distance from the north end of Henrietta street to the south end of Bagdale is about 1100 yards. P RESEX T STATE. 508 dious,, though in some places their breadth is con- siderable; but Flowergale, Skinner street, the New buildings, Bagdale, and vve may add the Quay, or front street of the Crag, are spacious and convenient. In the old streets, particularly Flovvergate and Bax- tergate, there are many very handsome buildings, in- termixed with others cf a humbler aspect. Bagdale may be numbered among the new streets : the north side is wholly new, and is finished in a style of supe- rior elegance, w T itli neat little gardens in front, and a commodious back street behind. Skinner street is the most regular in the town, being perfectly straight, and of a uniform breadth; it is 10 yards broad. The houses, however, are not uniform ; some being large and elegant, while others are small and indifferent. Silver street is much less uniform ; for while in some parts it has a fashionable appearance, in others, espe- cially at the south end, it serves only as a back street to Skinner street. With this last it communicates by two small nameless streets, each about 40 yards long, which is nearly the length of the interval between them. From the middle and the north part of Skin- ner street several rows of neat houses ascend towards the west, at right angles : these, with a cross row at the top, parallel to the street, receive the co/nmon appellation of Farndale fields ; the former name of the ground which they occupy, and originally derived from the family name Farndale. A more distant row, towards the north-west is usually called the Ropery walk , being built along the ropery of John Holt, junr. 510 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Esq. — Behind Skinner street, and on the same side, not far from the south end, is a short but very neat and uniform street, having- houses only on the side next to Skinner street, to which it runs parallel, at the distance of about 35 yards. This street, which has scarcely received any appropriate name, might' be called Upper Skinner street. It opens into the back street of the New buildings. The street eailed by this last name is the finest in Whitby: it forms but one row of houses; but all of them are beautiful, and some magnificent. They front the south, on which side they have small gardens, or ornamented grass-plots, which, owing to the curvature of the street, are of various lengths, those in the middle being longest, and those at the upper end shortest. The back street, which is very commodious, is straighter than the front street, and is therefore shorter, the one being 330 yards long, while the other is less than 300. Behind the back street, except at the lower part, are extensive gardens, generally belonging to the houses before them. The front street has a fine walk at the side, paved with flag’s. The houses of Whitby are chiefly constructed of brick. Many of the old houses are built of stone, and one or two cottages may yet be seen with stone foun- dations, and the rest of the walls composed of wooden frames filled up with clay and plaster. Since the com- mencement of the great improvements which began about 50 or 60 years ago, the fashion of building with brick has generally prevailed; but within these few PRESENT STATE. 511 years stone has again begun to have the preference : and when we consider, that stone of the best quality can easily be obtained in the neighbourhood, and that it admits the beauties of architecture in a much higher degree than brick, it seems strange that the latter should ever obtain the ascendancy. The best brick house in Whitby is that of Richard Rudyard, Esq. fronting the south end of Haggersgate ; the most handsome stone house is that of John Campion Coates, Esq. at the top of Flowergate and corner of Skinner street: the. former was built by the late John Yeoman, Esq * the latter, which is after the plan of the Mansion House in London, was erected by the late John Addison, Esq. Field-house, the seat of Christopher Richardson, Esq. recently rebuilt, is also a stately dwelling with a stone front, finished in the best style of architecture. Airy-h ill, the seat of Richard Moorsom, Esq. on the south of Whitby, is another stone building, equal in beauty, and superior in situ- ation. Several other elegant houses adorn the vicinity of Whitby, among which Meadow-field, the seat of Henry Simpson, Esq. lower Stakesby, the seat of Abel Chapman, Esq. and Larpool, the seat of Edmund Peters, Esq. deserve to be particularly mentioned. Larpool is a large stone building, plain but stately; it stands on the east side of the Esk, and commands an extensive prospect. — Most of the houses in Whitby and the vicinity are roofed with tiles. This makes the town look more glaring, but less beautiful, than if they * Behind Mr. Rudyard’s house on the west is a row of houses called Paradise rote. 512 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. were slated. A few houses have slate roofs., but they are too expensive here to become general. The view of Whitby, that is given in the Frontis- piece of this work, is taken from the west pier, or rather from the quay near the Battery. There ara several other points from whence interesting views of the town may be obtained. The Larpool road com* niands a prospect of nearly the whole town. From that point the New buildings are seen to most advan- tage, while the venerable structures that crown the eastern cliff are also in full view. The prospect is nearly as compleat from Airy-hill, Meadow-field, and the vicinity. Perhaps the most romantic view of the town is that which is obtained from the woody banks of the Esk beyond Boghall, or from the middle of the river, in sailing down from Ruswarp. In the spot alluded to, the town, which a little higher up is hid by a bend in the river, opens full on the sight, in all its extent and grandeur.* The approach by Bagdale, though more confined, is also highly interesting. When the traveller is just entering this street, and has reached the trees at the Friends’ burying ground, it k worth his while to halt, and enjoy the picturesque scenery before him. On his left, he sees, half con- cealed by the trees, a portion of the New buildings looking down with an appearance of majesty ; and on the same side, his attention is arrested by a regular * The public road from Sleights ought to have been brought down the river side from Ruswarp, by Boghall and the Ship-yards. The expense of cutting and banking might indeed have been consider- able; but the road would have been quite level, and much shorter than the present road, and would have furnished a delightful approach to the town. PRESENT STATE. 513 line of charming mansions,, elevated above the street, vrith sloping gardens before them ; while the multi- form buildings on the opposite side, with Bagdale beck in front, furnish a contrast not unpleasant. Be- fore him is the entrance to Baxtergate, where the spacious house of Robert Campion, Esq. holds a con- spicuous place; while groups of buildings on each hand present themselves to his view. Beyond and above them all, he sees the ancient mansion of the Cholmleys,* and the more ancient ruins of the abbey, towering aloft on the eastern cliff, in all the grandeur of antiquity. One thing, however, is wanting to give additional interest to the scene, — a view of the sea and the harbour, from which Bagdale is compleatly hidden. — This is the most commodious entrance into Whitby from the east and south: the entrance by the New buildings would have been better, had Flower- gate been a proper thorough-fare towards the bridge; but that spacious street terminates abruptly at the foot, where there is only a steep and narrow passage into the Old Market Place, with a very narrow lane to- wards Staithside ; so that carriages, entering by this street, must go round by Scate lane, in order to reach the bridge with safety. — To these observations we * The north front of Mrs. Cholmley’s hall, which is about 50 yards in extent, has a noble aspect; but of that part of the hall, erected by Sir Hugh Cholmley in the time of Charles II, only the shell is now standing. The roof was partly demolished by a violent wind about 42 years ago; and as the family had then removed to Howsham, it has never been restored ; the south part being sufficient to accommodate them during their occasional residence. Previous to the disaster now mentioned the statue of a gladiator stood in the court in the front of the hall. 514 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. may add, that a very commanding- view of the town and harbour may be had from the church-yard. Other particulars concerning the relative situation of the different parts of the town, may be learned from the Plan given in a corner of the Map, laid down with great care from actual survey. From what has been said of the growth of the town, it must be obvious that the population has been rapidly increasing dnring the last two centuries. On this subject, the accounts hitherto given are vague and contradictory ; some over-rating the population of Whitby, and others under-rating it. Charlton makes the number of inhabitants, in 1776, to be 12,000; and in a paper drawn up in 1782, by the late Francis Gibson, Esq., the number is stated to be at least 15,000, and is presumed to be nearly 20,000. On the other hand, the population of Whitby, taken according to Act of parliament, in 1811, did not reach 8,000. The latter calculation could not be correct, because the sailors were omitted in the returns ; but the two former are much less correct, being taken in the vague way of counting the number of families, and allowing 5 persons to each family. Gibson’s ac- count is enormously wrong, for even in his statement of the number of families, there is an error of from 6 to 8 hundreds: he makes the number of families, in 1782, nearly 8,000, and intimates that this must be greatly below the truth, whereas Charlton states the number (I believe correctly) to be only 2268, in the year 1776; and in the present year (1816), when the PRESENT STATE. SIS population is greater than at either of those periods, the number of families is little more than 2400. The uncertainty which has hitherto prevailed on this subject induced the author to obtain a correct knowledge of the present population of the town ; not in the vague way of allowing so many to every family, but by ascertaining the precise number belonging to each. He has drawn up with great labour a kind of Domesday of Whitby for the year 1816, containing the name of every family, the number of males and females in each, the employments of all the male inha- bitants who are engaged in any trade or occupation, and various other interesting particulars. — The follow- ing abstract exhibits the state of the population taken in March and April, 1816. *■ Families Males Females Persons Church street, including Brew- - ) ster lane, the New way, and > the houses near Spital bridge ) 817 1582 1759 3341 Poorhouse (not divisible into 7 families) j — 62 58 120 Grape lane, Sandgate, Bridge 1 street, Elfcrby lane and Market > place 3 109 270 257 527 Henrietta street 131 230 272 502 Tate hill. Church lane, with the 7 houses near the abbey 3 110 209 239 448 Total on the East side of the Esk, 1167 2353 2585 4938 * That this list may be compared more correctly with any list of the kind that may hereafter be taken, it may be noticed, that it in- cludes the straggling houses' on the east side of the Esk, as far as the New gardens on the east, and Burnthonses (or Mr. Reynold's house) on the south ; and that, on the opposite side, it extends to, and includes, the turnpike gate and upper Stakesby on the west, and the house of Mr. John Cail (the farmhouse belonging to the Presbyterian chapel) on the north-west. Ip making out the list, all who had their home at Whitby wefe included, whether they were at sea or elsewhere; and 3 p 2 616 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Tlie Crag, including the Quay ... Haggersgate, with Paradise row... Staithside, St. Ann’s lane. Market Place and Bridge-end Clift' lane, with the Mount, and the Paddock Flowergate Silver street, Skinner street. New buildiugs, and Farndale fields ... Baxtergate Scate lane and Bagdale Ship-yards, Boghali, Stakesby, Baldby lane,* & c Ruswarp Poorhouse West side of the Esk Total Population of Whitby... Families Males Females Persons 137 225 256 481 85 161 193 354 100 216 215 431 116 213 254 467 132 232 300 532 161 294 417 711 368 734 803 1537 75 142 175 317 78 199 214 413 — 9 13 22 1262 | 2425 | 2840 5265 2419 | ^1778 | 5425 10203 Thus it appears, that the whole population of Whitby, including' what may be called the suburbs , amounts to 10,203 souls; and would not teach 10,000, were we to exclude the straggling houses in the vici- nity. From the care which has been taken in prepar- ing this statement, its correctness may be depended on. It probably comes within 20 or 30 of the truth, and it is undoubtedly within 50 or 60 of the precise number at the period mentioned. Where the popu- on the same principle occasional residents then in Whitby were ex- cluded. All servants in place at Whitby were included; and natives of Whitby who had gone to place, or to any fixed residence, out of Whitby, were omitted. Iu taking the population, the author did not go to every house, but found it best to obtain the numbers in each yard, or small district, by means of a few of the oldest householders ; at the same time not neglecting further inquiry in uncertain cases. Some of the streets were taken by respectable friends, w hose accuracy could be depended on. A great part of the town was taken twice, some omissions having been observed in the first enumeration. * That part of the Yoj-k rogd which extends from the top of Water-stead lane to the turnpike-gate was anciently called Baldby lane, and the adjoining fields on the south were termed the Baldby closes. PRESENT STATE. 517 lation is so great, perfect accuracy is perhaps unat- tainable ; for, even while the list is making up, the numbers are changing. The author, when engaged in this part cf his labours, was forcibly struck with the shortness of life, and the mutability of all human affa-rs. While he was numbering one district, ano- ther which had been taken was diminished by deaths and migrations, or increased by births and by new r inhabitants. He seemed to be measuring the waters of a river, which will not stop till their dimensions be taken, but still roll on while the line is applied to them. Several curious particulars, connected with the population of Whitby, deserve to be noticed. It con- tains no less than 224 families, or houses, in which there is no male, and 34 in which there is no female : in almost all of the latter, and in a great number of the former, there is but one individual in each. In the house of Mr. Geo. Gibson, at the ropery beside Spital bridge, there are four successive generations living under one roof; and, a few months previous to the taking of this account, there were in that house three complete couples in succession, with the offspring of the last couple. In another family, named Robinson, in Sandgate, there are twelve brothers all seamen a circumstance perhaps without a parallel. There are also at present (in December 1816) in the family of Mr. Ralph Greenbury, the parish-clerk of Whitby, three children produced at one birth, two boys and a girl, all healthy and likely to live: they were born, however, after the population list was taken. HISTORY OF THE TOWN. SIS It will appear from the above statement, that in- stead of allowing five persons to each family, in esti- mating the population, we ought scarcely to allow more than four ; there being in Whitby 10,061 persons (deducting 142, the population of the Poorhouses) to 2419 families, giving an average of 25 persons to 6 families. There are some families, indeed, consisting of 12, 13, 14, 15, or even 16 persons; but, on the other hand, there are many tenements containing only one individual in each. Having ascertained the present population of Whitby, it will not be very difficult to calculate the number of inhabitants at any former period, since the parish registers began to be correctly kept; if the number of births, marriages, and funerals, bore the same proportion to the number of inhabitants in for- mer times as in the present day. The following abstract from the parish register for the last five years will shew the present proportion : Yean Birtht Males Femls. Burials Males Femls. Mar. 1811 261 viz 128 & 133 200 viz. 8S Sc 112 106 1812 312 — 151 161 227 — 117 — 110 100 1813 275 — 135 140 226 — 107 — 119 90 1814 299 — - 168 — 131 220 — 102 — 118 107 1815 356 — 194 — 162 243 — 113 — 130 123 Total || 1503 | — 776 — j 727 l|1116 — 527 — 589 i 526' Thus it appears, that the annual average number of births for the last five years is nearly 300 ; that of marriages, 105; and that of funerals, 223. To this we may add, that the average annual number of births among dissenters, recently taken, was found to be 33; that of funerals at the Friends’ burying ground. PRESENT STATE. 519 3 ; that of marriages at their meeting-house, 1 in two years.* The number of children from the country, baptized at Whitby church, will nearly compensate for the births of dissenters’ children, not entered in the parish register. The funerals from the country will perhaps not exceed those of inhabitants of Whitby interred in country church-yards. A similar remark vviil apply to the list of marriages. — In the ten years immediately preceding 1811, the population of Whitby must have been less than it is now, by some hundreds. The baptisms during these ten years amount to 2905, viz. 1496 males, and J409 females; the marriages, 872 ; the funerals, 2023, viz. 946 males and 1077 females : yielding an annual average of 290 baptisms, 87 marriages, and 202 funerals. From 1771 to 1780, inclusive, being the period during which Mr. Charlton wrote his work, the baptisms were 2547 ; the marri- ages, 800; and the funerals, 2102: producing an annual average of 254 baptisms, 80 marriages, and 210 funerals. On comparing the average of these ten years with that of the last five, it appears that the annual number of marriages was about one fourth less in the former period than in the latter, and the num- ber of baptisms about one sixth less. The disproportion in the burials is considerably smaller, owing to the former ravages of the small-pox, now happily put a stop to by vaccination. Taking the average difference at one sixth, we shall find the population to have been * The births are : Old Presbyterians, 4; Associate Congrega- tion, 5; Independents, 10; Catholics, 9; and Friends, 5. The average-was taken in 1811. 520 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. about $500, when Charlton’s history was written. — About the year 1750, and for several years before, the annual average number was from 135 to 140 births, from 30 to 35 marriages, and about 110 funerals; so that the town must have then contained about 5000 inhabitants. If we go back to the year 1700, we shall find the population to have been little more than 3000; the average number of baptisms for that period being from 100 to 110, the marriages from 20 to 25, and the burials about SO. The number was considerably smaller about the year 1650, when the inhabitants appear to have been not more than 2500 ; and it was still smaller in 1610, at which time the population was scarcely 1500; the births being about 40 or 50annually, the weddings from 15 to 20, and the funerals not exceeding 30. It is true, that before the year 1692 there are several omissions in the register, especially in the list of burials; yet we must also recollect that, in the 17th century, the villages and hamlets in the parish were more populous than at present, and of course a much greater proportion of the baptisms, marriages, and burials, were from the country; while at the same time the number of dissenters was much smaller.* The existence of an over-ruling Providence is justly inferred from the equilibrium maintained, in * The births of dissenters in 1703 are entered in the parish re- gister. They were 8 in number, viz. 5 quakers and 3 presbyterians: One of the latter is entered thus ; “March 4. [170f] George son of George Cooper a rank Presbyterian!” A quaker wedding is thus entered in 1704: “April 30. Philip Wright and Eliz. Dales married at the Quakers Meeting.” PRESENT STATE. $21 every country and every province, between the num- bers of the two sexes; and likewise from the well-known fact, that yvhatever small preponderance there may be in the number of births, it is upon the whole, on the side of the males; who are more exposed than females to accidents and other dangers. These facts are illustrated by reviewing the population of VYhitby. During the last 15 years, the births of males have exceeded those of females by 136. This excess, though small in proportion to the aggregate number, would have been sufficient, in any inland town of the same extent, to compensate for all the casualties to which males are exposed; but in a sea-port town, where the male population is so liable to be reduced by emigra- tions, shipwrecks, and other accidents, the equilibrium between the numbers of each sex cannot be expected to be fully preserved. Accordingly, it will be found in our population table, that the females in Whitby exceed the males by 647 ;* and it also appears, that during the last 15 years, the funerals of females have been more numerous, by 193, than those of males. Hence, if we recollect the excess of male births, the town of Whitby may be reckoned to lose by emigra- tion, shipwreck, and other casualties, about 330 men in 15 years, which gives an average of 22 for each year. The proportion between the births and funerals during the last 15 years, when compared with that in * The greatest disparity of numbers occurs in the New buildings ; where, in 24 families, the females are 92, the males only 37. This is partly owing to the number of female servants in that street. For the same reason, Skinner street and Farndale fields contain 245 fe- males, and only 189 males. In some of the streets, the numbers are pretty equally balanced. 3 x 622 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. former times,, exhibits a striking 1 proof of the blessings resulting to mankind from the discovery of vaccination. Since the commencement of this century the number of funerals in any one year has seldom approached the number of births; but in former periods, the funerals in several instances greatly exceeded the births. Thus, in 1772, the burials were 314, while the births were but 229; in 1781, there were 346 funerals, and only 294 births ; in 1783, the burials were 340, and the births only 299 ; in 1788, the buri- als were 356, and the births 321 ; and, in 1789, there were no less than 375 funerals, the greatest number ever known in any one year, yet the births for that year were also numerous, amounting to 338. Several other instances might be added: the most remarkable occurs in 1655, when the funerals were 134 and the births only 90. Perhaps in that year some epidemical distemper was raging in this quarter, as the number of deaths is almost double the usual proportion for that period. The greatest number of births in one year occurs in 1787, being 362 ; the next greatest is in 1815, being 356; in the latter year the number of marriages, is no less than 123. This increase may be attributed to the influx of sailors, and others, on the conclusion of the war. At the close of the American war, our population increased still more rapidly, owing chiefly to the vast number of Greenland ships which sailed out of Whitby for some years after. Previous to 1784, the number of baptisms in any one year never reached 300 ; but in that year they mounted up to 33 0 ; aor did they again fail below 300 for the space of 20 PRESENT STATE. 52S years. During that period, the population of Whitby must have been nearly the same as it is now : nay, in some of those years, it has been considerably greater.* Though many of the yards in Whitby are close and crowded, especially in Baxtergate, f yet the town is by no means unhealthy, being exposed to the sea breezes, by which a current of fresh air is conveyed into every corner. The sea air is indeed thought to be too sharp for some constitutions, particularly for persons of a consumptive habit ; and many of our youth are carried off by consumption ; yet numbers in Whitby, especially females, arrive at a great age. Our parish register presents numerous instances of longe- vity, and the number would have been much greater had the ages of persons buried been always recorded. In 1738 were interred, Ann Wainman, widow, aged 92 ; Mabel Bennison, widow, aged 98; Eliz. Mar- singale, spinster, aged 90; Ann Smales, widow, aged 98 f and Ann Watson, widow, aged 96. To give some more recent instances : there were interred in * From 1784 to 1800, inclusive, the annual average number of births is 329 ; of funerals, nearly 271 ; of weddings, 104. This is greatly above the average of the last five years : yet the aggregate number of births, marriages, and funerals in 1815, would be nearly equal to that of any one of those years, if an allowance were made for the excess of funerals during the ravages of the small-pox. Perhaps in some of those years the population might reach 1 1,000.- — The great- est number of marriages in one year occurs in 1785, being 134: in the year 1797, there were 126. The least number, for the last 40 years, occurs in 1795, being only 62. The least number of baptisms, for that time, is in 1809, being 254; and the same year gives also the least number of funerals, being 165. f One yard in Baxtergate, called America square, contains 126 persons, including those in the front houses. There is another wide yard in Baxtergate, misnamed a square ( Linskill square ), but it is only short. The Post-office yard s in Staithside, contains 86 persons. 3x2 524 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. 1810, Barbara Nicholson, aged 100; Jane Tulioch, aged 98; Eleanor Ellis, aged 90; Thomas Hull, aged 90; and Eliz. Walker, aged 104: in 1811, Margaret Trueman, aged 92; William Dawson, sailor, aged 96; and Mrs. Martha Holt (mother of John Holt, Esq.) aged 98 : and in 1812, Eliz. Rowntree, aged 104; Mary Brown, spinster, aged 92; Thomasia Lis- ter, aged 99 ; Priscilla Watson, aged 98; and Ann Winspear, aged 92. This last, who was the widow of Thomas Winspear, sailor, wms remarkable in ano- ther respect : — nature had furnished her with four breasts; for, beneath each of her two breasts, there was a smaller or secondary breast, but it does not ap- pear that she used the latter in giving suck to her children.* The most singular case of longevity known in Whitby is that of Esther Ling, who died in 1770, aged 109; as appears from her grave-stone, standing to the south-west of the church-tower. In connection with the population of Whitby, the surnames of the inhabitants may be noticed as an ob- ject of curiosity. Many of them are of Norman origin ; as Morley, Barry, Percy, Bovill, Pecket, Beaumont, Pinkney, Vipond, Petch, Ward, Boyes, Hastings, Men riel, &c. : many are Christian names transformed into surnames, sometimes with the addition of s; as Andrew, Adams, Roberts, Charles, Cuthbert, Watt (contraction of Walter), Jacks, Thomas, &c. A large proportion of the surnames have been formed by the * There is a person now living in Whitby who has three thumbs, one hand being furnished with two distinct thumbs, Another person who died lately, had the same peculiarity. Present state. 523 addition of son to Christian names, sometimes con- tracted and sometimes at full length; as Richardson, Dickinson, Dickson (often spelt Dixon ), Robertson, Robinson, Robison, Robson, Johnson, Jackson, Har- rison (for Henry son), Watson (for Walterson) , Thom- son, Williamson, Wiilison, Wilson, &c. This class of surnames may be traced to the custom that pre- vailed before the general use of surnames, of distin- guishing persons, especially those who had no lands, by adding the name of their father ; of which numerous instances occur in the records of the abbey : thus, John the son of Andrew would become John Ander- son ; Henry the son of Hodge, would be Henry Hodgson, cr Hudson. Another large class must have originated in the custom of calling persons by the names of the towns or districts where they had pro- perty, or from whence they had come : and here, as might be expected, the names of numbers of places in the vicinity may be noticed ; as Lyth, Newholm, Ellerby, Boulby, Gisborne (the old name of Guisbo- rough), Loftus, Moorsom, Garrick, Skelton, Wilton, Sneton, Seamer, Cloughton, Scawby, Stainton, Pick- ering, Rosdale,Kildale, Farndale, Bransdale, Langdale, Teasdale, Trowsdale (or Troutsdale), Stockton, &c. A multitude of names have been derived from employ- ments or professions; as. Smith, Mason, Wright, Skinner, Barker, Walker, Chapman, Cooper, Slater, Baker, Baxter, Plowman, Horseman, Potter, Collier, Fidler, Carter, Cook, Kitchenman, Barber, Gardiner, Yeoman, Miller, Turner, Webster, &c. Others are 526 HISTORY OF THE TOWN* names of offices or dignities, for some of which it is not easy to account; as King, Lord, Noble, Judge, Ruler, Marshall, Knight, Cavalier, Major, Steward, Clark, Elder, &c. Not a few are names of animals ; of the feathered race, as Bird, Peacock, Swan, Crow 7 , Wren, Dove, Nightingale, Woodcock, Thrush, Duck, Martin, Gosling; of the finny tribes, as Ling, Cod- ling, Herring, Flounders; and of the quadrupeds, as Lamb, Kid, Hind, Hart, Buck, Stott, Bacon, and Bullock. Some names are derived apparently from different kinds of vegetable productions; as Oakwood, Hazlewood, Ash, Rountree, Beech, Rose, Oates, Pes- cod, Bloom: some from colours; as Green, Black, White, Gray, Brown, Reid, Orange : some from the different parts of a house ; as Hall, Kitchen, Chambers, Garret, Corner: a few from various small articles; as Stocking, Patten, Buckle, Potts, Blades, Trap, Stamp, Scales, and Ringbolt : and a great number from va- rious places or things upon the face of the ground ; as Hill, Dale, Wood, Forest, Groves, Craig, Burns, Banks, Waters, Wells, Pool, Cliff, Croft, Mead, Moss, Close, Garth ; as also Castle, Towers, Bell, Cross. Several are connected with the weather; as Gales, Storm, Weatherill, Raine, Snowball, Snowden, Win- ter, Summerson. Many are derived from qualities or relations ; as Good, Trueman, Telfair, Strong, Hardy, Doughty, Speedy, Idle, Cowart, Sharp, Meek, Proud, Jolly, Young, Younger; to which we may add Anger, and Goodwill. Some have arisen from countries or provinces; as Britton, England, Scott, Welch, French, PRESENT STATE. 527 and Frank : and a great variety must be ascribed to accident, whim, or jest; as Unthank, Argument, Duel, Gambles, Golightly, Boansides, Heavisides, Handisides, Sidebottom, Blackbeard, Milestone, and Eyeblister.* Till within these few years, the rents of houses in Whitby have been very moderate ; and, though of late they have risen considerably, they are stiil reason- able when compared with those of many other towns. Small tenements are let higher in proportion than large houses, there being few below £3 yearly rent. Middling houses are from 7 or S£ to 12 or 14£ ; good houses, from 15 to 20 £ ; and houses of a supe- rior class, from 20 to 30, or even 40 £ and upwards ; but the most valuable houses are seldom let, being * Eyebiister, however, is probably a contraction for Arbalister — “ a cross-bow-man” — arbalistai ius. — The most plentiful names in Whitby are those which end in son. There are near 50 families of Robertsons, Robinsons, and Robisons; besides 10 or 12 oi Robsons: of the name Harrison there are 28 families; of Richardson, 11 ; Simp- son, 14; Jackson, 31; Johnsou, 15; Wilson, 21; Williamson, 6; Peirson, or Pearson, 20; Gibson, 13; Anderson, 13; Thomson, or Thompson, 26; Lawson, 14; Hutchinson, 14; Wilkinson, 14; Wat- son, 13; Hodgson, 12; Hudson, 5; Atkinson, 11; Dixon, or Dick- son, 10; Dickinson, 6 ; Stephenson, 11; Jefferson, 11; Jamson, 6; Nicholson, 11; besides Sandersons, Aliiusons, &c. There are also other surnames which abound in Whitby : thus^ of Smith there are 25 families; Chapman, 10; Ward, 16; Hunter, 13; Harland, 19; Taylor, 12; Clark, 16; Barker, 8 ; Miller, 8; Marshall, 10; Pea- cock, 11 ; Brown, 15; Walker, 14; Hill, 14; Dale, 11; Wood, 16; Forster, 11; Bell, 14; Barry, 8; Newton, 8; Agar, 9; Corner, 9; Campion, 7 ; Knaggs, 8 ; Gray, 8 ; Scott, 8 ; Mead, or Medd, 10; Allan, 8; Bolton, 6; Laverick, 7; Coverdaie, 7; Blackburn, 7; Wright, 9 ; Estill, or Eskdale, 9; and Webster, 10. — There are only two families of tire ancient name Percy. Several of the other names occur in the early records of the abbey ; as Chapman, Pennock, Ward, Bedlington, Watson, Simpson, Richardson, Skinner, Thompson, Dale, Wilkinson, Cook, Forster, Bulmer, &c. There are two families of Nuns, but Monks, and Monkmans, which were once common, have disap- peared : which is also the case with Anningson and Brewster, each of which gave name to a lane in Whitby: to which we may add Wain- naan, and Haggis, each of which at one time gave name to a street. 52S HISTORY OF THE TOWN. generally occupied by the owners themselves. Shops, in good situations, are of course let for much more than their intrinsic worth. — The whole rental of the town of Whitby, according to the valuation taken in 1814, by Mr. John Bolton, Junr. the late Mr. Rich. Charlton, and the late Mr. William Merry, appears- to exceed £16,000; including the gardens, docks, ship- yards, and roperies; but not the fields in the vicinity. The rents of the township of Whitby amount to £11,000; viz. about £6200 on the east side of the Esk, and above £4800 on the west side. To this must be added above £5000, for that part of Whitby which lies in Euswurp township ; besides what must be added on the cast side for the valuable premises on both sides of Spital bridge, belonging to the township of Hawsker. The whole rental of Ruswarp township, including lands, is estimated at above £J 1,000.*' * 1 have not given the population of Whitby parish, without the town, but it may be estimated with tolerable precision from the fol- lowing list drawn up by Mr. P. Aldridge, the late parish-clerk, in 1811: Ruswarp 53 Families 250 Persons.* Aislaby 39 208 Ewe Cote and Cross Butts... 8 53 Newliolm 17 S7 Dunsley 17 98 East Row 26 122 U pgang Lane 8 42 Raithwaite, &c 10 25 Hawsker cum Slainsacre ...101 542 Larpool and Cockmill 14 50 Total 293- Families 1477 Persons. I have omitted Stakesby, &c. included in the suburbs of Whitby; and if we deduct a few families in Upgang lane, &c. also taken in my list, and then add the population of the town, we shall find the whole parish to contain about 2700 families, and 1 1,600 persons: exclusive of the chapelries of Ugglebarnby & Sleights, comprising above 800 more. *• This must include more than the village of Ruswarp : for the village contains only 48 families, and 222 persons ; viz. 104 males and 1 IS females. HISTORY OF THE TOWN. 529 CHAP. in. THE HARBOUR, PIERS, QUAYS, DRAW-BRIDGE, SHIPPING, SHIPBUILDING AND MANUFACTURES CONNECTED WITH IT, COMMERCE, WHALE FISHERY, CUSTOM-HOUSE. Hitherto we have viewed Whitby as a town, let us now examine it as a sea-port ; in which light its importance is most considerable. — The reader has al- ready been informed, that the first voyage from this port, of which there is any record, was that of /Elfleda, in the year 684. Soon after the conquest, the port of Whitby must have been of some consequence, as it is particularly specified in the charters of the Percy family, among their donations to the monastery. Yet it does not appear to have made great progress under the government of the monks; for, as we learn from the accounts of their expenditure, the coals procured for the abbey were chiefly brought by vessels belong- ing to Shields, Newcastle, Sunderland, Barton, Lynn, and other ports ; though the Whitby vessels also brought a considerable quantity.* At the dissolution of the monastery, Whitby was a fishing town of great note. The number of vessels belonging to it has not been recorded ; but Robin Hood’s Bay had then 20 boats, and of course Whitby * According to the Roll for 1394 — 5, the names of the owners or masters of Whitby vessels which brought coals that year for the monastery, were: Elias Nesfeld, John Cundith, John Thorpe, and John Legat. 3 Y 530 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. had many more. About that time the harbour received great improvements;, by the erection of a new quay, and the enlargement of the pier. How long a pier had existed there., on which side of the river it lay, or whether it was on both sides, is not known ; but it was then repaired, or rather rebuilt, with stone that had fallen from the cliffs, as well as with timber.* It is probable that about this time, or soon after, a pier was built on each side the Esk ; but however firmly the piers might then be constructed, it was neces- sary to rebuild them anew, before many years had * “ Thens [from Scarborough] an 8. miles to a Fischer Tounlet of 20. Bootes eaullid Robyn Huddes Bay, a Dok or Bosom of a Mile yn lenghth; and thens 4. Miles toWhiteby, wher is an havenet holp ■with a peere and a great fischar Toune.” — “From Scardeburg to Robyn Huddes Bay an 8. Miles: and thens to 4Vhitby, wher a new Key and Port is yn making of Stone faullen down yn the Rokkes thereby : and all this is cliffy shore.” Lei. Itiner. I. p. 52, 62. The following extract of a Memorial presented to Henry VIII. about the year 1545, is partly connected with this subject: “ What fynes hare ben at any tyme geven for any of the Premysses thawditor knoweth nott, Albevt he knoweth the seide Demeayns ot Whitbye to be worth a great fyne if they were nott in Lease. Also as concernynge Patronages, AdvowSons, Chantreis, or other Promocyons to the Premysses apperteynynge he knoweth none. Also the Manor of Whiteby with all the Bents and Sarvies in Whitby extendith unto the yerly Valeue of lxxxii. li. xviii. s. vi. d. Furdermore the Premysses in W 7 hitbye-lathes ben percells of the seide Manor of Whitbye-lathes as before is mencyonede, which Manor extendith unto the yerly Valoue of xliii. li. xix s. and lyeth nere unto the seide Mannor of Whitbye. Item: it is verye necessarye that all the Woods within the Parishe of Whitbye or elce where nere thereunto be reservyde for the mayntenaunce of the Kyyngs Tenements and Cotages in Whitbye and at Robvnboode baye, and of the Peyr against the Sec at Whitbye where the Kyngs Majestie hath alredye imployede great somes of Money. Item : the Premysses ben xi Myles distaunce from the Kyngs graces Castell of Scarburgh, and that there be none of his Graces Houses, Forests, Parks, and Chaces reservyde for thaccesse and repare of his Highnesse nere there- unto, other then the Forest of Blackamore which is iiii Myles distaunce. Also the partyclers herof have been delyvered unto my Lorde Evers, and also to Sir Arthure * * Ex.perEdward. Nalynghurst Deput. Hugon. Fuller. Audit,' The reader will recollect that each of the miles of that period was equal to a mile and a half of the present measured miles ; and that they were often very vaguely computed. 1 may add, that the word pier, in these extracts, may include both the east and west piers. See the next Notes. HARBOUR. 531 elapsed. In 1632, they were found (no doubt after many repairs) to be in a very ruinous state ; and about that time the whole of the west pier was rebuilt, chiefly through the exertions of that celebrated baro- net, Sir Hugh Cholmley, then lord of the manor of Whitby. As Sir Hugh’s account of this business exposes an evil not entirely eradicated from our town- the want of public spirit ; I shall give the narrative in his own words : “ In Easter Term, 1632, I went to London, for obtaining some- thing for re-edifying the piers of Whitby, having, not without difficulty and trouble, persuaded the townsmen to petition the Council-table for that purpose ; where, by the Earl of Strafford’s favour, I procured liberty fcr a general contribution throughout England; and could not get a townsman to employ themselves in it, evety one so intent on his particular profits, as it made them neglect the public; so that, after the grant, the business had not been prosecuted, but that I got two of my honest neighbours about me iu Fylingdales to undertake the collection, viz. John Farside, and Henry Dickenson; by which means, I think, near 500o£. was gathered, and all that part of the pier* to the west end of the harbour erected, which, in the judgement of all men hath preserved a great part of the town from being ruined by the sea, and kept the harbour open; yet will liot the townsmen bestow care and pains to lay up one stone, or fill up a breach when the sea hath made one. I wish, with all my heart, the next generation may have more public spirit.” Mem. of Sir H. Cholmley, p. 51. The civil wars, which commenced soon after, would naturally retard all public works; and the east pier seems to have lain neglected for a long period ; for, in the time of Charles II, the pier of Whitby was in an unfinished slate. f Indeed nothing effectual was * As Sir Hugh considers the west and east piers as two different parts of the same pier, the use of the singular word by Leland, & c. does not prove that only one pier existed at the surrender, f “Thera belongeth to it about 100 sail of Vessels, and hath a Custom House, and would be more considerable were its Pier finished.” — Blome’s Britannia, p. 251. The use of the word Pier, in this passage, con- firms the remark in the foregoing Note. 3 Y % 532 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. done for placing our piers and harbour on a respect- able footing till the year 1702; when, in consideration of the utility of this port, as a place of refuge for colliers and other coasting vessels, the parliament passed an act, imposing a duty of one farthing per chaldron on all coals shipped at Newcastle or its dependencies, Sunderland, &c. (except those shipped in Yarmouth vessels), towards repairing and rebuild- ing the piers at Whitby: and also granting the fol- lowing duties payable at Whitby, towards the same object; viz. on every chaldron of coals landed at Whitby, 6d.; on every weigh of salt, 2s.; on every quarter of malt, corn, or grain, 4d. on all foreign goods imported in English bottoms, 3d. per tun ; on such goods imported in foreign bottoms, 6d. per ton ; on all baiter shipped at Whitby, Id. per firkin ; on all dried fish and mudd-fish shipped. Id. per score; on all barrelled fish shipped, 3d. per barrel ; on every Eng- lish ship entering within the piers. Is. besides 4d. for each top; and on every foreign ship, 2s., with 4d. for each top. Trustees were appointed to receive and dis- burse the money,* and were empowered to mortgage the duties, and borrow money on them at 6 per cent, interest. The act also prohibited, under a penalty not exceeding 40s., the throwing of ballast, rubbish, &c. into the harbour. This act was to remain in force only 9 years, as it was hoped that within that time a sufficient fund would accumulate for maintaining the * The trustees were : the lord or lady of the mauor for the time being, Ralph Boys, Gideon Meggison, Henry Stonehouse, Henry Linskeli, John Wiikinson, Matthew Thompson, John Langstafle, Leonard Jefferson, and William Fotherley. HARBOUR. 533 piers and harbour ; but when it was found in 1709, that instead of any such accumulation, the duties were considerably mortgaged, a new act was obtained to extend the former to the year 1723. In 1720, a third act passed,* rendering' ail the duties perpetual, except that of one farthing on each chalder of coals shipped at Newcastle; but the funds being found inadequate to the work, this last duty was renewed for 31 years by ano- ther act passed in 1734; and in 1749, an additional duty to the same amount was granted for 31 years. Again, in 1765, when the act of 1734 was about to expire^ a fresh act was obtained, continuing the duty for another term of 31 years ; in 1780, the additional duty of 1749 was also extended 31 years longer; in 1796, the old duty was prolonged for another term of 31 years; and, finally, in 1812, the additional duty w 7 as renewed for a like term.f In virtue of these acts, thus alternately renewed, there is paid towards the support of our piers and harbour, a duty of one half- penny per chalder on all coals shipped at Newcastle or its dependencies, except in Yarmouth vessels. The sum raised by this duty, together with the per- * The trustees under this act were, the lord of the manor, John Burdett, Esq. Gideon Meggison, gent. Henry Stoneliouse, John Hird, John Smallwood, and Reuben, Thomas, Robert and Joseph Linskills. Upon the death of any trustee, or upon his refusal to act, the remain- ing trustees were authorised to elect another; and in this way the trustees have been nominated ever since, their full number being ten . By this act of 1720, the interest on money borrowed was reduced to 6 per cent. This act was combined with another for enlarging the piers of Bridlington, f In each instance I have given the date of the act itself; the year in which it began to take effect is, in most instances, the year following. In the acts preceding George II, each term ends with May 1 ; in the succeeding acts, each term begins and eqds with June 1. §34 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. petual duties, levied at Whitby in virtue of the acts of 1702 and 1720, amounts on an average to about ,£2000 yearly ; though in some former periods the amount was greatly inferior. By the funds thus provided our harbour has been wonderfully improved. The east pier has been whol- ly built, the west repeatedly enlarged, and repaired; and besides these outer piers others have been formed within the harbour at different distances, to direct the current, to break the force of the waves, and thus to give greater security both to the shipping, and to the premises abutting on the harbour : rocks that formerly obstructed the mouth of the harbour have been removed, and immense beds of sand that once filled a considerable part of the harbour, and even threatened to choak up the entrance, have by the lengthening of the piers been all cleared out.* In virtue of the act of 1734, the west pier was lengthened 100 yards, that the sandbanks then accumulating round its head might be washed away. After the passing of the act of 1749, 230 yards of the old part of the same pier were rebuilt, besides the repairs of the east pier, and much was done for deepening the channel, by clearing away the rocks in or near the entrance; by which means the trustees contracted * In 1637, there were sands of considerable extent, behind Grape lane and Church street, where the channel is now deepest, extending from the bridge to a coal-yard, which appears to have been at the Low-lathes, where the korngarth was anciently made up. See Sir Hugh Cholmley’s Memoirs, p. 57. Within these 50 years, as many now in Whitby can remember, there was a similar bank of sand be- hind Saudgate, between the bridge and the foot of the Burgess pier. HARBOUR. 535 debts to a great amount.* The act of 1749., empower- ed the trustees to repair the road between Haggersgate and the west pier,, and place mooring posts along it, &c.; but, owing to the expense of their other under- takings, this great improvement was not begun till about 30 years ago. Before that time, the road be- tween the Crag and the river, formerly the north end of Haggieseygate, was deep and broken, and like part of Church street was covered by the sea at high water ; so that the tide sometimes Rowed into the north end of Ha ggersgate. The commodious quay, now extend- ing from this street to the west pier, was about 3 years in building; and forms one of the finest im- provements which the town and harbour have expe- rienced. The improvement would have been still greater, had it been continued to the bridge, by re- moving those houses of Haggersgate and Staithside which abut on the harbour. Since the erection of the quay, the west pier has been almost all renewed, being greatly enlarged in all its dimensions; and it now forms an admirable piece of workmanship, which may vie with any pier in the kingdom, either for strength or beauty. Perhaps I might add — extent; for the length of the pier and quay, measured to the corner of the inn or coffee-house facing the quay, is nearly 620 yards ; forming a most excellent promenade. The extremity of the pier, which is rounded, bends out- wards, to guide the current into the harbour, and facilitate the entrance of vessels. f— -The act of 1812 * In 1765 they were found to have borrowed above <£1 1,000, of which sum .£5,500 then remained unpaid, y The length of the 536 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. particularly authorises the repairing of the east pier, which is now enlarging on the outside, in the same durable form as the west pier, to the breadth of 15 yards. This pier, which is about 21 J yards long, forms the grand barrier to protect our town and har- bour from the fury of the German ocean, which often breaks over it with great violence. Its head is covered from the west winds by the head of the west pier ; so that, when vessels have entered between the piers, they are instantly sheltered both from westerly gales, and gales blowing from the east and north-east.* As to the inner piers; those on the west side are very short. The Scotch Head, at the commencement of the quay, projects across the harbour about 44 yards, from the foot of the west pier, and extends along the quay 36 yards. When it was first built, or whence it obtained its name, I have not found; but, in the memory of some persons now in Whitby, it was only a small round projection, not a fourth part pier strictly so called, from the Scotch Head outwards, is 338 yards, including the curvature at the end: the breadth is 16 yards; the diameter of the rounded extremity, 18 yards. At the distauce of 134 yards from the pier head, half of the breadth is built lower than the other half, so as to form a kind of sheltered walk from thence towards the Scotch Head. Throughout the whole length of the pier and quay are capstans and mooring posts at convenient distances. This pier, which was finished in 1814, does much credit to the engineer, Mr. Jas. Peacock, as well as to his predecessor, the late Mr. Jon. Pickernell. * As far as I can learn, the east pier was formerly near where the Burgess pier now stands. The present east pier was constructed about 100 years ago. Between this pier and the cliff is left an open- ing sufficient to allow carts to pass to the scar, or rocks, on the outside. Over this opening is thrown a gangway from the pier to the cliff, from whence there is a footpath to Henrietta street. In the room of this gangway, or narrow bridge, there was lately a steep ladder, called the Spate ladder, from a mineral spring in the cliff. HARBOUR. 537 of its present size. At the other end of the quay, in front of the coffee-house, is another pier or projection, formed at the erection of the quay, but much smaller than the Scotch Head. Near the Scotch Head are two smaller projections of the quay, scarcely worth notic- ing 1 . — The inner piers on the opposite side are the Burgess pier and the Fish pier; the former projecting towards the Scotch Head, the latter towards the small pier at the coffee-house. The Burgess pier seems to have been formed out of the remains of the ancient east pier, and probably obtained its name from its being constructed by the burgesses of Whitby, before the appointment of trustees for the piers. It was very short till after the year 1766, when it was greatly en- larged. It is about 105 yards long, but is low and narrow, when compared with the outer piers. The space between this pier and the east pier is called the Collier Hope * The Fish pier is entirely modern, having been built only 27 years ago. It is about 65 yards long, narrow at the head, but diverging widely at the foot, on both sides, so as to occupy the whole space between the opening of Brewster lane and that of the New way, 38 yards in extent. In that space stands the Fish-house, which gives name to the pier. * Previous to its enlargement, the Burgess pier was often called the Little pier. Before the act of 1702 was obtained, and for some time after, this pier consisted merely of loose stones, one of which, of a great size, was called the Bigger stone. On the part nearest the channel stood a kind of flag-staff, to direct vessels into the harbour. The west pier, which then extended very little beyond the Scotch Head, was also in a very rude state. Indeed, we may gather from Sir H. Cholmley’s account (see p. 531), that this pier also was for- merly built of loose stones. 3 z 538 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The outer piers are of great strength and height, the west pier being 32 feet above the channel of the river, and the east pier near 30. They are both faced with dressed stones of immense size, some of which are mortised into each other.* Yet, however great their strength, it would be vain to hope that they can stand for many years, without frequent re- pairs. Already the new work at the head of the west pier has more than once been severely shaken, and huge stones that seemed firmly rivetted together, have been parted, and torn from their beds, by the fury of the ocean. Indeed, when we see on our coast vast rocks, apparently the most solid, undermined and overturned by the waves, how can we expect the works of man to withstand their rage ? New improve- ments, too, will demand attention when the present are completed ; so that it is not likely that the exertions of the trustees will soon be diminished, or that their revenue will admit of being reduced. f The entrance of the harbour, between the heads of the two outer piers, is about 92 yards wide ; the inner entrance, between the Burgess pier and the * The stones are all brought from the quarries near Aislaby. Some single stones weigh above 6 tons each; nay, I am told, that there are stones in the foundation of the west pier several tons more. It is proposed to extend the east pier head, so as to make it bend outwards like the head of the west pier. This would be a most valua- ble improvement, as vessels entering from the north or north-west, where the channel is best, would no longer be in danger of missing the harbour mouth, and getting behind the east pier; a danger which has often proved fatal, both to ships and to seamen. — The expenditure of the trustees has for some years past exceeded the receipts. The bonded debts amount at present to o£6250, besides a large balance due to the treasurer or receiver. The perpetual duties, payable at Whitby, form but a small proportion of the annual income. HARBOUR. 539 Scotch head, is not quite 72; and the third entrance, between the Fish pier and the projection at the coffee- house, is nearly 68. The extending of the piers, and the contracting of the entrance, have cleared away the sandbanks, and greatly increased the depth of water in the harbour : the depth at neap-tides, i s from 10 to 12 feet; at spring-tides, from 15 to 18 feet, and sometimes more. Small banks of sand, or mud, are occasionally formed, especially above the bridge ; but, though they produce partial alterations in the channel, they are nothing to the banks with which this port was formerly obstructed. With the depth of water in the harbour, the swell of the sea is of course increased ; and vessels in stormy weather must go above the bridge to escape the swell; but there is room there to accommodate a large fleet, the water being sufficiently deep as far as Boghall. The channel, however, is not very broad in some parts, being confined on the west by a large bank called the Bell isle . — To direct vessels to proper moorings, and maintain order in the harbour, a harbour-master is appointed by the trustees, agreeably to the acts of 1749 and 1765; by the last of which his salary is fixed at £30 yearly, and obedience to his orders is enforced by a penalty not exceeding £20.* — -There are 14 pilots belonging to the port, who take charge of ves- sels entering in or going out. They are sufficiently hardy and bold; yet, such is the swell at the mouth of * This office is usually filled by some experienced captain, re- tired, from the sea. The late Mr. Thomas Pyeman held the office for several years: the present harbour-master is Mr. William Barker. 3 z 540 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. the harbour, that in stormy weather it is dangerous for them to venture without the outer piers.* In connection with the piers, it will be proper to notice the batteries, especially as they have been built out of the same funds, under the direction of the same trustees.*j* When the west pier was lengthened, in virtue of the act of 1734, its circular termination was formed into a battery, with a strong parapet, and embrasures for 5 pieces of cannon ; and another bat- tery, for the same number of pieces, was erected on the west side of the foot of this pier, not far from the Scotch Head. A third battery, for 3 pieces, said to * On the western cliff there is a flag-staff, where a flag is hoisted at high water, to intimate that ships may then enter with safety : at half flood, when the depth of water on the bar is only about 7 feet, the flag is half hoisted : v.lieu the harbour cannot be entered without gr- at danger, a fire is made near the staff, and the flag is not hoisted. Another flag-staff is placed cn the west pier head, where a lantern is occasionally suspended to direct ships into the harbour. These sig- nals are made by one of the senior pilots. On the east cliff there was, till lately, another flag-staff, intended to give a signal on the approach cf an enemy : it is now nearly destroyed, and may it iong continue to be unnecessary. — It may be proper to add, that spring tides flow on our shore at half past three, but are later in the offing. — On the east side of the harbour, below theBrkige,are buoys, or floating mooring posts, in the spaces between the piers Above the bridge are fixed dolphins, in the inidule of the harbour, to which vessels are made fast. — Whitby is supplied with a life-boat, procured by subscription about 18 years ago. It has saved several lives and some vessels; and would have saved many more had it been smaller; for, being large and clqmsy, it requires too much time to get it launched aud manned. At present it is quite unserviceable. — A ladder of ropes is kept in the church tower, to save the crews of vessels wrecked under the east cliff; for which humane purpose, Win. Turner, a chimney-sweep, has used it with great success. Captain Mauby’s excellent apparatus has been obtained during the present year (1816), but its efficacy has not yet been put to the trial. f The present trustees for the piers are; Mrs. Cholinley, as Lady of the manor; the Right Honourable Earl Mulgrave; and John Chapman, Henry Walker, Christ. Richardson, J. Campion Coates, Henry Simpson, Rich. Moorsom, Wm. Barker, and Wm. Skinner, Esquires. — The receiver at Whitby is Mr. Peter Max- well: there are also receivers at Newcastle, Sunderland, and Blyth, BRIDGE. 541 be more ancient than the other two, stood on the verge of the east cliff, at the north end of Haggerlyth ; but, being found insecure, it was removed in 1785. Since 4he erection of the quay, the battery near the Scotch Head has been strongly rebuilt, in the form of a cres- cent, with a small tower at each angle, and is furnished with 8 guns. The pier-head battery has been rebuilt more recently, along with the pier itself; and 6 guns are mounted here. The guns are all 18 pounders.* The new quay is furnished with commodious stairs for going down to the harbour, yet, owing to the swell, as well as its distance from the centre of the town, it is not adapted for loading or unloading vessels. The wharfs for this purpose are all private property, and are almost all above the bridge. The two principal wharfs are both on the east side of the river; viz. that near Bouiby Bank, belonging to Robt. Campion, Esq. now occupied by Mr. Jn. Anderson, and that belonging to Jon. Sanders, Esq. in the occu- pation of Mr. Jn. Price, about half way between the former and the bridge. On both sides of the harbour there are openings, at various places, to admit a pas- sage to the ships. These openings are termed Ghauts or gauts ; f and some of them are wide enough to allow waggons to go down to the ships, for the conve- nience of loading or delivering. The bridge is another subject which now claims our attention. It is a current opinion, that there was * Since the volunteers were disembodied, the guns, which are used on days of rejoicing, have been served by a botnbadier of the artillery. Adjoining to the half-moon battery is a bomb-proof magazine, with a storehouse, and a guard-room, f Perhaps the word gaut is simply a pontraction for go out . 542 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. no bridge over (he Esk, in tbe centre of our town, till about the year 1630, when the wooden bridge which had previously stood at Stone quay, or Boghall, was removed, through the influence of Sir Hugh Cholm- iey, to where the present bridge stands, and assumed the form of a draw bridge.* That there was a w'ooden bridge for foot passengers, from the end of Water- stead lane at Boghal! to the opposite bank, where there is still a ford, is fully ascertained; but it is a great mistake to suppose that there was no bridge in the centre of the town till that one was demolished. There is undoubted evidence that Whitby bridge ex- isted, in some form, on its present site, prior to the year 1595 ;f and when we consider how r necessary such a communication must have been while the monastery was standing, and how small the swell of the sea in our harbour then was, we can scarcely doubt that the monks, not to speak of the other inha- bitants, would take care to have a bridge between the two parts of the town. At first no doubt, this bridge, like others then in the country, would be rudely con- structed, and would be too narrow to admit carriages : yet it is probable that, from its first erection, it was a kind of draw-bridge, some part of it being so framed as to be occasionally lifted up or removed, to admit the larger vessels into the upper part of the harbour ; for, though the large vessels in former times were * Charlton, p. 288, 313. + There is a conveyance dated in 1595, now in the possession of Henry Simpson, Esq. in which a house in Grape lane is described as hounded by the “ lande belounging to Henry Cholmeley Esq., and fVhitbie Bridge, towarde the north.” BRIDGE. 543 usually loaded or delivered at the quay* or staith from which Staithside derives its name., yet the making up of the liorngarth so much higher up the river, indi- cates that such vessels must have had access to that part of the harbour. At any rate, our bridge was a draw-bridge previous to the year 1637.f It is pro- bable that Sir H. Cholmley contributed to its improve- ment; yet I am inclined to think that the other bridge at Stone quay remained long after his time.§ After passing through various successive improvements, Whitby bridge was completely rebuilt on stone pil- lars, in the year 1766, when it cost the county about £3000. It then assumed the form which it now wears, of which a representation is here given. * This was probably the "new Key” mentioned by Lelarid as erecting in his time. It was for many years tbe only public quay jn Whitby for the delivery of goods, f This appears from an anecdote told in Sir H. Cholmley’s Memoirs (p. 56, 57) concerning a dispute between a Dunkirk vessel and some Hollanders, where it is stated, that ■“the Dunkirker, for more security, had put himself above the bridge.” § In an old plan of Whitby, as I have learned from a respected friend 344 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The leng th of the bridge; from the houses on the one side to those on the other, is 50 yards; but as the bridge reaches beyond the first houses on each side, almost to the extent of the two Bridge-ends, its true length is nearly 100 yards. It is built of timber rest- ing on stone pillars, which are cased with wood to save them from the violence of the sea: the pavement over the timber is 16 feet broad ; the opening for the admission of ships is 32^- feet. The bridge is of great service, not only for maintaining the communi- cation between the two sides of the river, but even for the security of the harbour; for, the force of the waves being broken and divided by the pillars of the bridge, vessels are moored above the bridge in com- plete safety, when the swell below is tremendous : so that, were the bridge removed toBoghall, as has some- times been proposed, the measure would not only cause incredible mischief to the town, which would then be divided into two towns, like Shields, but would prove a serious injury to the port. Our bridge being an essential part of the public road along the coast, is maintained by the county ; and, owing to its peculiar situation, is very expensive, being often damaged both by the sea and by the shipping. Were the who saw it several years ago, the Boghall bridge was laid down as in use when the plan was drawn; yet I cannot suppose that plan (which cannot now be found) to have been so old as the days of Sir Hugh. — The lane called Wnter-steacl lane was called Watering lane in 1609, and an adjoining field was called Watering close. Perhaps the lane was so called because it led down to the water. When a staith or quay was built at Boghall it would naturally be called Water staith or Water stead. The lane proceeding from the top of this lane to where the turnpike gate now is, was called Baldly lane, and the adjoining fields were named Baldly closes, or the Baldbies. SHIPPING. 545 passage for the ships widened, the leaves and the apparatus for suspending them would not be so fre- quently injured : but a much greater improvement would be effected, were the moveable part made to turn on a pivot, instead of being hoisted. There would then be nothing to entangle the rigging of vessels, nor even to retard their entrance; for the revolving part might be so constructed as to yield to the impulse of any vessel coming against it, if it was not fully opened at the vessel’s approach.* The shipping of Whitby, like the town itself, has made astonishing progress during the last two centu- ries ; and its progress has been much accelerated by the improvement of the harbour. For many years subsequent to the dissolution, the vessels belonging to our port were few and small. They increased after the erection of the alum-works in the vicinity, espe- cially in the time of Sir Hugh Cholmley, and during the commonwealth ; yet, in 1676, their number was only 76; and all of them were small, except one or two called Fly Boats. In the year 1700, they had increased to 113 sail, two or three of which were of * A plan of a new bridge, on this principle, was drawn by Mr. Jas. Peacock about three years ago, and submitted to the consideration of the justices of the peace for the North Riding at the Quarter Ses- sions ; but, owing to the greatness of the expense (estimated at about *£8000), and other causes, it has not hitherto been adopted. It is hoped, however, that an improvement so beneficial will at last be accom- plished.- — Mr. Peacock has also drawn an elegant plan of a lighthouse, proposed to be erected on the east pier head, when the present works are completed ; but the state of the funds gives little room to hope that it can soon be carried into effect. — It may be observed : that in the west pier head there is an apparatus for shewing, by A circular index, the depth of water in the harbour. 4 A 546 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. c d0 keels or upwards; yet the whole together did not equal the burden of SO of the present large ships. In 1734, there were near 130 vessels, of 80 tons burden or upwards, belonging to Whitby ; but, in a few years after, about the middle of the last century, they mul- tiplied with unprecedented rapidity; so that in 1776, they amounted to no less titan 251, and their aggregate burden was reckoned to exceed 55,000 tons.* Since that time our shipping has remained nearly stationary, being more in some years and less in others, as will appear by the following table. Years. No. of Vessels. Tonnage. Registered Seamen. 1790 260 48,647 2778 1800 237 39,189 2108 1810 204 34,777 2136 1814 238 46,162 2809 1815 229 43,938 2563 1816 280 46,341 2674 It is necessary to observe, that this table of the shipping registered at Whitby does not include all the vessels belonging to Whitby owners ; for, of late years, several of the larger vessels, adapted to the transport service, have for the convenience of the owners been registered at London. This accounts for the apparent falling off in the tonnage since the year 1790. The number of Whitby ships now registered at London is supposed to be from 12 to 20: if we fix on the latter * The tonnage here given from Charlton (p. 342) seems too great for the number of vessels. Perhaps before the passing of the register act the burden of ships was not taken very correctly. Ac- cording to the statement of the late Fras. Gibson, Esq. the number of Whitby ships in 1782 was 320, their united burden 78,000 tons, and the number of seamen 6240; but this statement, like that gentlemans account of the population, is much exaggerated, particularly as to the seamen. The numbers which I have given are taken from the Custom- house books and other authentic records. SHIPPING. 547 number, and allow these 20 large vessels to average 300 tons each, the shipping of 1816 will amount in all to 300 sail, and their united burden to 52,341 tons. The reader will perceive that the proportion be- tween the ships, tonnage, and men, varies considerably in different years ; the greatest number of vessels in the list being in 1816, the greatest tonnage in 1790, and the greatest number of seamen in 1814. We must not suppose that the whole of the seamen, for any year, belong to the town of Whitby. By the Gensus already mentioned, taken in 1816, I find the number of sailors in our population, including all those at sea and a few who have left off going to sea, to be only 948; to which if we add 150 carpenters, which number may be supposed to go to sea out of our port, it will make the number of resident seamen about 1 100, which is less than the half of the registered seamen for this year. Great numbers of the seamen belonging to Whitby vessels come from the villages in the neigh- bourhood and along the coast, and many ships, when in distant parts, are manned with seamen from various quarters; though, on the other hand, several Whitby sailors are serving in the navy, or in vessels not be- longing to our port. — Our seamen have long been dis- tinguished by their courage, activity, skill and experi- ence; and many of them have been very successful.* * The late Mr. Thos. Pyeman was 45 years a captain; and during all that time he never was shipwrecked, nor stranded, nor captured ; nay, he did not even lose an anchor or a cable : to which I must add, for the connection is worthy of remark, — he never was intoxicated. — Richd. Featherstone, one of the two old seameu employed to hoist the bridge, was 64 years at sea; and was never shipwrecked nor taken. 54S HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The progress of the inhabitants of Whitby in the art of shipbuilding has eminently conduced to the in- crease of their shipping. Shipbuilding has been car- ried on at Whitby from time immemorial; though in former ages the vessels were so small, that the art of constructing them might rather be termed boatbuilding. It was not till about the year 1730, or a little after, when the harbour became so improved as to accom- modate large vessels, that regular ship-yards were formed, and ships of considerable burden began to be made. About that time, the ship-yard at the foot of Green lane, belonging to the Dock company, and now occupied by Messrs. Holt & Richardson, seems to have commenced. There was formerly a coalyard on the same spot, intended to sapply the alum-works at Salt- wick.* Some years after, the yard beyond Spital bridge, now the property of Mr. Campion, and occupied by Messrs. W. S. Chapman and Co., was begun by a Mr. Wm. Coulson from Scarborough. These are the only regular yards for building ships on that side of the Esk ; yet several other places have been used for a time. Vessels were built at various periods on the ground belonging to the Dock company, nearly op- posite the Saltpan-well, where two or three ships have lately been built by Messrs. Holt & Richardson ; others were built in the opening lower down; nay, in the memory of persons now living, small vessels were built below the bridge, behind the custom house; where * Perhaps this was the coal-yard mentioned by Sir H. Cholmley (See p. 534, Note), and not any yard at Low Lathes, as I ventured to conjecture. SHIPBUILDING. 549 they were launched along the sands which then occu- pied the back of Sandgate. Two other yards for building ships were begun on this side of the river some years ago, considerably further up than the other yards; but they have both been discontinued. Mr. Jon. Lacey commenced building in 1800, below Larpool ; but he gave up in 1803. Mr. Jas. Wake began lower down the river, in 1801 ; and relinquished the enterprise in 1806. — The four ship-yards on the west side of the Esk, are all of considerable antiquity. The two nearest to Bagdaie beck, viz. Mr. Barry’s, and Mr. Barrick’s, were held as one yard by a Mr. Jarvis Coates, about the year 1740, and for some years before and after; and he was succeeded by Mr. Benjamin Coates his younger son, soon after the year 1750. Previous to the father’s death, and a little be- fore the year 1750, his eldest son, Mr. Jarvis Coates commenced building in the yard now belonging to Mess. Fishburn & Brodrick. About the year 1759, these shipyards, where many large vessels were built, passed from the family of Coates, through the bankruptcy of the elder brother, and the death of the younger, and the yard occupied by the former was purchased by the late Mr. Thos. Fishburn. The yard belonging to Messrs. Langborne, which is formed on land appa- rently gained from the Esk, did not commence till about the year 1760. It was begun by Mr. Richd. Simpson, occupied for some time by Mr. Wm. Hustler, and then sold about 40 years ago to the family by whom it is still possessed. Mr. Robt. Barry, father to 550 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Mr. John Barry, succeeded Mr. Benjamin Coates, in the ship-yard next to Bagdaie beck. This yard was divided about the year 1763, when Mr. Thos. Hut- chinson began to build in the north part. He also erected the handsome house adjoining. He declined business about 40 years ago, and was succeeded by Mr. Robt. Barry, to whose family the premises now belong; and the yard on the south was then entered on by the late Mr. Henry Barrick, in whose family it still continues. Each of the other ship-yards has a dwelling-house connected with it; the most elegant of these buildings is Esk-house, erected by the late Mr. Thos. Fishburn. — Besides these four ship-yards, there were once smaller yards, or building places, close be- hind Baxtergate, perhaps more ancient than the other. One of these was on the spot that is now the Angel inn yard: it was occupied by Mr. Thos. Hutchinson before the year 1763.* Along with the ship-yards, it will be proper to mention the dry docks , for repairing ships. Of these the most ancient are on the east side of the Esk. They are three in number, one by itself, and two close to- gether, forming a double dock. They began to be formed about the year 1734; the single dock, which is the most northerly, being made first. f They were built by a company, called the Dock company, con- * A briy: lias been built this year by Mr. Gideon Sraales above the oil-house at Boghall; but that place can scarcely be called a ship- yard. | It would appear that in 1739 no other dock but this bad bsen built; for in the register of burials for that year we find this entry, under May 27 : “ The body of a uian uuknowu, thrown up by the tide near the dry dock.’ 3 SHIPBUILDING. 551 sisting of Messrs. William Barker, John Holt, John Reynolds, and John Watson ; but Mr. Watson’s share was obtained soon after by Mr. John Kildill. The property is still in four shares,* and the whole, in- cluding the building ground at each end, is now in the occupation of Messrs. Holt& Richardson. On the west side of the Esk are also three dry docks ; one at BoghalJ, built in 1757 by the late Mr. Thos. Fishburn, and now belonging to Messrs. Fishburn & Brodrick; one built by Mr. Richd. Simpson, about the year 1760, now be- longing to Messrs. Langborne, being an appendage to their ship-yard ; and a third formed in 1812, by the late Mr. Henry Barrick and his sons, being connected with the building yard belonging to that family. f The skill of our shipbuilders and carpenters has long been generally acknowledged, and has brought much business to the town, and produced a great in- flux of property ; especially during the first American war, and the last French war. No ships are better adapted for transports, or more serviceable for gene- ral purposes, than those built at Whitby. In strength, beauty, and symmetry, our vessels are equalled by * The three shares first mentioned now belong to Messrs. P. Barker, R. Campion, and Wm. Reynolds. The share of Mr. Kildill belongs to Messrs. G. J. & N. Langborne and Mr. Jamieson. f It may be proper to notice, that a dry dock was built about the year 1755, by Mr. Richd. Simpson, or rather by his father Mr. Wm. Samp- son, on the east side of the Esk, near the spot where the house of Edward Chapman, Esq. now stands; but, the ground being too spongy, it could not be kept dry, and it was therefore in a few years abandoned and tilled up, and the materials were taken to build the dock on the opposite side now' belonging to Messrs. Langborne. The first attempt of Mr. Fishburn was attended with a similar failure. He built a dock in front of his ship-yard; but, when nearly completed, it sunk down 552 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. few, and, I may venture to say, excelled by none. This remark does not originate in partiality for my townsmen, but rests on the united testimony of respectable strangers from various parts, whose in- formation, judgment, and experience could not be questioned. When the comparative cheapness with which vessels can be built or repaired here is also taken into view, it will fully account for the great run of business which our shipbuilders have enjoyed. Numbers of beautiful vessels have been built at Whitby for the ports of London, Hull, Shields, Liverpool, Lancaster, and other places in England. At one time, many of the Berwick, or Leith, smacks, which are now procured from Bridport, were built at Whitby; par- ticularly by Mr. Geo. Langborne. Of late years a number of large vessels have been built here for the port of Greenock, intended for the West India trade. The size of our vessels is indeed limited, by the di- mensions of the bridge, and the depth of water in the harbour ; yet they are sufficiently large for general purposes. The largest vessel ever built here was the Esk, built at Mr. Fishburn’s yard in 1781, for Mr. Wm. Leighton of London. Her dimensions were : keel and rake, 127 feet ; breadth, 33 feet, 3 inches; burden 629-f-f tons. She mounted 44 guns, nine and six pounders. The largest Whitby-built ship now in existence is the Chapman, built at the same yard in 1777, and now registered at London. It measures 1 16 ft. 10 in. keel and rake, and 33 ft. ly in. breadth : burden 5b8 tons. The largest ship at present belong- SHIPBUILDING. 553 mg to Whitby is of 520 tons burden : it was built in 1814, and is called the John Barry, after the name of the builder and owner.* The average number of vessels produced in a year has varied much at different periods. During the American war, the average annual number was 20 or 21 : from the commencement of the late arduous contest with France down to the year 1806, inclusive, the average has not been less than 24 or 25 : but, for the last ten years, from 1807 to 1816, the average is only 14. The greatest number that occurs in any- one year, is in 1802, being no less than 39 : the small- est number that has occurred for a long period is in 1809, being only 10. The whole number of vessels built in the last ITyears, from 1800 to 1816, inclusive, is 331, and their aggregate burden 77,891 tons; yielding a general average of nearly 20 ships and 4582 tons for each year, and 235 tons to each ship. The strength and durability of the Whitby ships may be inferred from the great age which some of them have attained. The Sea Adventure is a noted instance ; that vessel braved the storms of 86 years, having been built in 1724, f and lost in 1810 on the * Many other large vessels might be noticed. The Coverdale, built by Messrs. Fishburn & Brodrick in 1795, for Norrison Cover- dale, Esq. London, measured 579§ tons; keel and rake 118 ft. 11 in. ; breadth 33 ft. 2 in. The Culland’s Grove, built by the same gentlemen in 1801, for Messrs. Atty & Co., measured 599 tons; length of keel and rake, 127 ft. 2 in. ; length on deck, 130 ft. 9 in. ; breadth, 32 ft. 4 in.— It is proper to notice, that the opening at the bridge is wider towards the middle than it is above; otherwise it would not admit a vessel more than 32§ feet in breadth, f It is said that this vessel was built by Mr. Jarvis Coates, senr. who had his ship- yard where the yards of Mr. Barry and Mr. Barrick now are. See p. 549. I might therefore have assigned an earlier date to his labours ; 4 B 554 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. coast of Lincolnshire ; nor did she go to pieces even at the last, but was carried up by the violence of the wind and of the flood tide into the midst of a field, where she was left high and dry, a good way from the sea. The Happy Return, a small coaster that was wrecked a few years ago, was supposed to be consider- ably above 100 years old. Several vessels of a great age still belong to the port, besides those built here that belong to other ports. Among other instances, the Volunteer deserves to be noticed, having seen 50 years of hard service, and performed 45 successive voyages to Greenland. Boatbuilding took the lead of shipbuilding, but is now its humble handmaid. There are three boat- builder’s yards in Whitby, and they are all in Church street: that of Mr. Chr. Gales, abutting on the har- bour, near Ripley’s buildings : that of Messrs. Marshall and Copley, on the other side of the street a little below: and that of Mr. Win. Falkingbridge, opposite the Seamen’s Hospital . — Block and Mast-making is another appendage to shipbuilding. There are also three yards where this business is carried on : that of Mr. Smales, in Church street ; that of Messrs. March and Hick, and that of Mr. Bovill, both in Baxtergate. — There are besides five raff yards, for the sale of timber and deals, belonging to, or occupied by, Messrs. Chapman, Smales, Barker, Beaumont & Bovill, and Moorsom ; the first beside Spital bridge, the second but it is doubtful whether the Sea Adventure was built by that Mr. Coates, or his father. Of the antiquity of that ship-yard there can be no doubt. ROPERIES. •555 in Church street, the next two in Baxtergate, and the last above Boghall.* Rope-making has long been carried on at Whit- by. f We have now five roperies. The oldest is that on the top of Boulby bank, 440 yards long, belonging to Adam Boulby, of York, Esq. and occupied by Mess. Fishburn & Brodrick. It belonged in 1721 to a Mr. Jos. Wood, who sold it to Mr. Thos. Boulby in 1737.§ * These yards are arranged according to their local situation > but that of Mr. Barker is the oldest. ■[ I find James Grenebancke of Whitby — stringlayer, in 1609 : the term seems to be synonymous with roper. § A plan of this ropery and the adjoining premises, drawn in the year 1737, is still preserved. It shews the state of that part of Whitby at that date. The opening at Boulby bank was then called Corn close, and there wsJs no house between that opening and the houses near Saltpan well ; nor was there any proper street or road in that direction, but a staith, or high walk, called Joseph Wood's staith, at the entrance to which was the turnstile formerly noticed (See p. 487) ; and there were sands running- parallel to this staith, and coining close up to it. At the Seamen’s Hospital, a horse road, very necessary when the tide was up, ascended the bank, then called Weselden bank, towards the ropery, and winding southward along the bank, descended nearly opposite the dry docks. This appears to have been Swinegate lane. (See p. 487.) A footpath also ascended the bank in a slanting direction, from below where Bipley’s buildings now stand towards the south end of the ropery, and crossing the horse road went onwards to Green lane, in the direction of the lane that now runs behind the poorhonse. The spot where the poorhouse stands was then a field called the little close. — This plan was politely communi- cated by Mr. T. Pierson. The same gentleman directed the author to an interesting docu- ment, the existence of which he was not aware of — a plan and PROSPECT OF THE TOWN AND HARBOUR OF WHITBY, published about the year 1740. The only copy known to be extant is m pos- session of Mrs. Smith of Whitby, late of Egton Bridge. The plan is by John Wooler, engraved by J. Haynes, and dedicated to Cholmley Turner, Esq. then knight of the shire, by whose endeavours the good — of the harbour of Whitby had been greatly promoted.” Had the author seen this plan before the preceding sheets were printed, it would have prevented some mistakes, and enabled him to state some things with more precision. In stating (p. 550) that the single dock on the east side of the Esk was built first, he has depended on wrong information : the double dock, stated in the plan to have been built in 4 b 2 556 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The ropery at Spital bridge belonging to Abel Chap-^ man. Esq. London, and occupied by Messrs. Holt and Richardson, is above 70 years old. Its lengih is 380 yards. Of the three roperies on the west side of the Esk, that of Mr. Henry Goodwill, 240 yards in length, is the oldest, being about 60 years old.*' Mr. Holt’s ropery, on the north of Skinner-street, now occupied by Mr. Jn. Wray, was begun by Mr. Jn. Twisleton in 1782, and is 120 yards long. The ropery of Messrs. 1734, is undoubtedly the oldest; for the single dock is not laid down in the plan, the place where it now is being then open sands. At that time there was but one ropery, viz. that ou Boulby bank. There were only three shipyards, viz that of Jarvis Coates, senr. (now two ship- yards) ; that stated (p. 549) to have been begun by Jarvis Coates, junr. before 1750, but which must have commenced before 1740; and that belonging io the Dock company at the foot of Green lane, f lie yard beyond Spital bridge had not then been formed. — The lengthen- ing of the west pier (provided for by the act of 1734) had not been carried into effect; but tire proposed addition is marked iu doited lines; arid it is very observable, that it was not then intended to he carried out in a straight line and to terminate in a round head with a battery, but to end in a curve, bending outwards, in the very form in which it has recently been rebuilt. The east pier and Burgess pier were both shorter than they are now, and the Scotch head was but a small pro- jection. No battery then existed ; but there was a flag-staff, as now, on the west cliff, and another on the west pier head. The total absence of Henrietta street. Silver street, Skinner street, the New buildings, the north side of Bagdale, the houses betw een Bagdale heck and Bog- hall, the south part of Church street, &c. makes the town appear very diminutive. Beyond the present opening at Boulby bank, there were only a few houses where Mr. Scoresby’s premises now are, a few be- yond Saltpan well, the ropery house at the top of Saltpan steps, a house between the dry dock and the adjoining ship-yard, a house or two immediately beyond Spital bridge, Burnthouses, and Larpool- house. The stone quay had been built at Boghall; but there were no houses there, except a cottage or two where the tannery now is — Should another edition of this History ever be called for, an engraving copied from this ancient plan would form an interesting embellishment. * This ropery, which occupies a part of the Arundel closes, and lies in the valley sometimes called Aritndel hole, was begun by one Nicholas Harker. He and his wife both perished on the road between Whitby and Scarborough in a storm of snow. MANUFACTURES. 557 Fishburn & Rrodrick, between their ship-yard and Boghall, near 300 yards in extent, was built by the late Mr. Fishburn in 1784. Sail-making is another appendage to shipbuilding long known in Whitby; for there were sail-makers here above 100 years ago. There are four sail-lofts, or sail-manufactories, at present in Whitby, carried on respectively by Messrs. Win. Chapman, John Holt, junr. Jos. Addison, and Harrison Chilton : the first situated in Baxtergate, the next two in Church street, and the last on the Crag. The sailcloth-manufactories are comparatively modern ; for, before the year 1756, the Whitby sail- makers procured the canvas from other places. There are now three manufactories for canvas established here, belonging respectively to Messrs. Jon. & Jos. Sanders, Rob. Campion, and Jn. & Wm, Chapman. The first was begun about the year 1756, by the late Mr. Jon. Sanders. It comprises two, or rather three branches; one near the Market Place, containing 11 looms; one in Tate hill, containing 16 looms; and one at Guis- borough, of about the same number. The second manufactory also consists of two branches ; one in Church street, containing 21 looms; and one in the vale above Bagdale, containing 15 looms. These were formerly two distinct manufactories. That in Church street was begun by Mr. Christ. Preswick in 1758: it was first carried on at Ruswarp, but, the premises there being destroyed by fire, it was removed to Boulby bank, near to the house and bakehouse now HISTORY OF THE TOWN. b-jB occupied by Mr. Readshaw ; from whence it was transferred, in 1777, to Elbow yard, where it is now carried on. The Bagdale branch of this manufactory was begun by a Mr. Christ. Ware about the year J 759. The third manufactory, which contains 30 looms, is beside Spita! bridge. It was begun in the year 1767, by the family to whom it si ill belongs. — In each of these manufactories flaxdressing is carried on, as well as weaving; to which I may also add bleaching. — Till lately the spinning was all performed in private houses, as a great part of it still is : but in 1307, Mr. Campion erected a spinning-manufactory, beside his sailcloth manufactory in Bagdale. In 1814, this spinning manufactory gave place to another, which the same gentleman erected beside it, on a larger scale and an improved plan. It contains 12 spinning frames, each having 30 or 36 spindies ; besides card- ing frames, preparing frames, and other ingenious machinery; the whole driven by an excellent steam- engine, of 12 horses power, by Fenton, Murray and Wood. The manufactory employs from 30 to 40 people, and can spin about 250 dozen lbs. in a week. It could be made to produce much more, being capa- ble of containing several additional frames. A part of the work is allotted to the preparation of the yarn for making sailcloth without starch or any substitute for it ; — an invention for which Mr. Campion received a patent in 1813. The patent sailcloth is stronger than the common, and is consequently dearer. The quantity of sailcloth made in Whitby has MANUFACTURES. 5 >3 varied considerably at different periods. Much busi- ness was done in this line during the American war, but more during the late war. In 1782, about 5GG0 yards were made weekly ; but from 1796 to 1805, in- clusive, about 10,000 bolts of canvas, each 38^ yards on an average, were annually manufactured; being 385,000 yards for each year, or 7400 yards week The next ten years, ending with 1815, have been less productive; yielding an average of 7300 bolts, or 281,050 yds., annually ; and about 5400 yds. weekly The shipbuilding, and the manufactures con- nected with it, give employment to a great part of our population. From the census for 1816, so often referred to, I find that Whitby contains 403 carpen- ters ; of whom, as already noticed, we may suppose about 150 to go to sea, and the remainder to be em- ployed in the ship-yards. There are besides, 29 boat- builders, 17 block and mast makers, 34 sawyers, 64 ropers, 12 riggers, and 40 sailmakers. There are 104 weavers, and 39 flax-dressers ; most of whom belong to the manufactories. There are also many other tradesmen whose employment depends in a great mea- sure on the shipbuilding and manufactures: the fol- lowing are thus stated in the census ; joiners, 79 ; painters, 26; coopers, 20; blacksmiths, including founders, 56. There are two founderies, both in Baxtergate, that of Mr. Rich. Vipond, and that of Mr. Geo. Chapman. The latter has lately made a * The amount for 17S2 is taken from a memorial by Mr. Gibson already referred to The calculation for the last twenty years is kindly eotmnunicated by Mr. Joseph Sanders. 560 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. steam engine of 2 horses power, on a new and most ingenious plan, combining the improvements of other engines, and bringing the whole into a smaller com- pass, than has perhaps been witnessed in an engine of like power. It is used for blowing the furnace bellows. The tuade of the port of Whitby is but small in proportion to the quantity of shipping. In time of war, a great number of our ships, especially those of the greatest burden, have been employed in the trans- port service ; and many of them are employed, at all times, in the trade of other ports. Several of our vessels trade from Hull, London, &c. to the Baltic : from London, Liverpool, &c. to the West Indies, and America, and sometimes to the East Indies, Batavia, &c. : and a still greater number are employed in the coal trade for London, and various other ports. The trade of Whitby itself, however, is not con- temptible, considering its situation in a country abounding with moors, where few manufactures are carried on. Our exports to foreign parts are indeed inconsiderable, especially of late 3 ears ; but our im- ports are to a greater extent. This will be best exhibited by the following list. Principal Articles of Imports. 1790. Timber, 1194 loads 6 ft.; Deals 40 c. 2 q. 27 ; Hemp, 15 tons, 13 c'vt 3 q ; Fiax, 97 t. 12 cwt. 2 q. 14 lb. ; Ashes, 82 cwt. 3 q. Iron, 71 t. 7 cwt. 12 q. 14 lb. 1800. Timber, 824 Ids. 26 ft. ; Deals, 72 c. 0 q. 15; Hemp, 100 t. 10 cwt. 3 q. 14 lb. Flax, 203 t. 13 cwt. 3 q. 13 lb. Ashes, 17 1. 2 cwt. 0 q. 24 lb. Iron, 31 t. 2 cwt. 1 q. 15 lb. Oak plank, 308 Ids. 23 ft. Staves, 20 c. 2 q. Wheat, 585 quar. 3 bush. 1810. Timber, 573 Ids. 27 ft Deals, Sc 2 q. 12; Hemp, 150 t. 3 cwt. 2 q. 15 lb. Flax, 131 t. 19 cwt. 0 q. 3 lb. Iron, 141. 17 cwt. 0 q. 19 lb. Staves, 150 c. 2 q. 2. Ashes, 14 1. 9 cwt. 1 q. 12 lb. TRADE. 561 1815. Timber, 675 Ids. ; Deals, 19 c. 1 q. 13; Hemp, 144 t.5c\vt. 3 q. 61b.; Flax, 164 1. 1 cwt. lq. 21b.; Iron, 7 1. 15cwt. I q. 201b.; Ashes, 6 t. 14 cwt. 1 q. 9 lb.; Staves, 2 c. 2 q. 10. Exports to foreign parts only. 1790 Alum, 1232 tons; Whale Oil, 13 tons, 116 gallons. 1800. Alum, ISO tons; Dried Fish, 78 tons, 3 cwt. 1810. No exports to foreign parts. 1815 Alum, 305 tons. From the nature of the imports it will be seen, that our chief foreign trade is to the Baltic and Nor- way. Ten ships were employed in this trade in 1815, and two imported timber from British America. Vessels frequently clear out from Whitby for these parts, and other quarters of the world, to bring cargoes for other ports. The first vessel that has been known to clear out here for the East Indies direct is the Hyperion, Lashley, of 468 tons, belonging to Mr. Barry, which sailed from Whitby January 3d, 1817. Our coasting trade is much more considerable : for in 1815 it employed no less than 128 vessels of various sizes ; of which 38 were in the coal trade, for supplying the town and the alum works : and the number for 1816 is greater. The coals delivered in 1814 amounted to 6087 chald. 25 bush. Whitby mea- sure, for the town and neighbourhood ; and, for the different alum works, 8963 ch. 18 b. : in 1815, the amount for the town was 5794 ch. 14 b. ; and, for the alum works, 6596 ch. 12 b. Several vessels are em- ployed in carrying goods and passengers to and from London, Hull, Newcastle, and Sunderland : though, in regard to the last two ports, the coal vessels are often used as regular traders.-The state of our coasting 4 c 562 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. trade, as it relates to exports, will be seen in the fol- lowing table. Principal articles sent coastwise from Whitby. Years. SAILCLOTH. BUTTER HAMS & BACON. OATS. LEATHER Bolts. firkins. Tons. C'n t. 2r. Lb. Suars. Lbs. 1790 7300 1309 21 9 3 10 4,094 33,615 1800 8753 1615 38 13 1 0 4,180 12,175 1810 5074 714 44 6 1 0 10,815 3,072 1815 5383 752 71 7 2 14 7,482 6,043* Alum and butter were considered as staple com- modities of Whitby in the time of Charles II ;f when Whitby butter seems to have been as much in repute as Stockton cheese is in the present day. Of late our trade in this article has greatly fallen off, while that in hams and bacon has much increased.§ In reviewing the amount of our exports and im- ports, the balance of trade seems greatly against us ; but this is only in appearance; for it must be remem- bered, that our most valuable exports , if I may so call them, consist in ships, in the construction of which our principal imports are consumed. || One of the most lucrative branches of our trade arises from the whale-fishery. This commenced in 1753, when two vessels, the Henry & Mary, and the * Alum is purposely omitted, as it will fall to be noticed sepa- rately ; for a similar reason, Whale Oil , Blubber, and Whale Fins are omitted in tire list of imports, f Blome’s Britan, p. 251. § Only 752 firkins of butter were shipped in 1815; whereas the amount in Charlton’s time was about 6000 "firkins annually. Ch. p. 361. — I might have noticed in the account, of the canvas manufectories (p. 559) that in 1776, as well as in 1782, about 5000 yards were made weekly. I ought also to have noticed in p. 553, that though, according to Mr. Gibson’s memorial, the average number of ships built here about 1782 was reckoned 21, yet about 1776 it was estimated at 24 or 25. See Charlton, p. 358. || A great part of the timber and deals used at Whitby is brought coastwise, or procured from the vicinity ; and this may account for the falling off in the importation of these article* since 1790. GREENLAND FISHERY. 563 Sea Nymph, sailed from our port for Greenland. These two ships continued in the trade for six years in suc- cession ; and in 1754, 1755, and 1756, they were accompanied by other two, the Dolphin, and the Ann : these last were discontinued in 1757, but in that year, and 1758, two others were sent, the John & Ann, and the Leviathan. From 1758 to 1767, the Greenland trade was wholly given up ; except that one solitary ship, the Henry & John, went in 1760. — No record exists at the custom-house concerning the success of these vessels, or the names of the masters ; but it is known, that in this early stage of the Greenland trade, harpooners and other officers were procured from Hol- land, as our sailors were then unacquainted with whale-fishing. The ships employed were for the most part what are called club ships, being the property of large companies who possessed them in shares.* Their success was probably small ; and they were * Almost all our present Greenland ships are also held in shares, but not in such small shares as 32ds and 64ths. This custom is of ancient date in Whitby. In a curious inventory of the effects of Bar- tholomew Pinder of Whitby, master and mariner, taken at his death, Aug. 13, 1683, are the following items : “ Shipping — In Whitby — A Quarter part of the Ketch Richard of Whitby — o£l5. — Shipps at Sea — One 32th part of the Shipp called y e Concord, Rich. Ward Mr. £7 . — One 32th part of the Shipp the Satisfaction, Wm. Fotkerley Mr. £6.” — In an Inventory of the goods of Samuel Pinder (of the same family) taken June 7th, 1703, are these items: “In Shipping. In his own vessell, six 16ths, §, one 64th part — of 160 — In one 32th of Willm. Johnson vessell — ,=£30. In one 32th of Stephen Russell Pinque — <=£13. In one 32th Richd Chapman Pinque — <£7 10s. — In one 32th Ebo: Marshall Shipp — <£20. In one 32th Hen. Pearson Shipp — <£20. In one 32th Willm. Fotherley Shipp — <£20. In one 32th Geo. Jackson Vessell — £6. In one 32th Fra: Barker Pinque— £12 10s.’ > — These Inventories were handed to me by Mr. Wm. Lang- borne, to whoni I am indebted for other interesting communications. 4 c % 564 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. withdrawn for the transport service, as a less preca- rious source of gain.* In 1767, a few years after the return of peace, the Greenland fishery was renewed. Two vessels, the Janies & Mary, Todd, (afterwards Hardy, &c.) and the Jenny, Elliott, (afterwards Banks, &c.) went that year; and the former continued in the trade till 17/5, the latter till 1784, inclusive. In 1769, they were joined by the Porpoise and the Peggy ; both which were lost, the latter in 1771, and the former in 1772. In this last year the Hope engaged in the trade, and continued, with some interruptions, till 1790, when she too was lost. In 1772, the Volunteer also per- formed her first voyage to Greenland, and is now an aged veteran in the service, being at present fitting out for her 46th voyage. In 1773, the John & Ann, which had been employed before, returned to the Greenland trade, but made only three voyages. In 1774, three new ships started, the Loyal Club, the Delight, and the Providence ; making the number for that year eight. These vessels principally belonged to the late Mr. Thos. Scarth, the late John Yeoman, Esq. and the late Richard Moorsom, Esq. — In 1775, a vast increase took place : in that year and 1776, the number of vessels was no less than 15; and, in the three years following, 14. In 1780, there were only 10; in 1781, 8, and the next two years, 7 : but in 1784, they rose again to 12; in 1785, they reached 16; and, in the three following years, no less than 20 * It may be remarked, that the ships belonging to Whitby ia 1755 amounted to 195. Charlton, p. 339. £65 GREENLAND FISHERY. v ships sailed out of Whitby for the fishery, the greatest number that lias occurred.* In 1789, the number was 18; in 1790, it fell to 12; in 1791, it was 9; in 1792, 10; in 1793, 7 ; in 1794, 6; in the next 7 years, only4.f In 1802, there were 6,§ and since that time, as will be shewn presently, the number has varied from 6 to 11, which last is the number for 1816. — In former times, about one half, or more, of the Whitby fishing ships sailed for Davis Straits ; but since the year 1792, jj when the Straits’ vessels were extremely unsuccessful, our ships have almost all gone to Greenland. The number of our vessels that have been em- ployed in this trade, from first to last, is 53. Of this number 8 have been lost in the Greenland seas, and one (the Nautilus) was burnt in the harbour, when readv to proceed on her voyage.^ The most disast- rous year that has occurred was 1790, when two ships, the Friendship and the Hope, were lost, and the rest indifferently fished. The most unproductive years were 1775 and 1779: in the former, 15 ships brought home only 19 whales in all; 5 ships being clean, and 6 more having only 1 fish each : in the latter, 14 ships * The year 1787 is the only year in which 20 ships returned to Whitby from the whale-fishery ; for of the 20 that sailed in 1786, one belonged to Stockton, to which port she returned, and of the 20 which sailed in 1788, one (the Chance) was lost, f The Volunteer, Bedlington ; Henrietta, Kearsley ; Lively, Cass ; and Earl Faucon- berg, Agar. This last, in 1800, gave place to the Experiment, Agar. In 1797, the Lynx sailed out of Whitby, but it delivered at Hull. § The two new vessels were the Aimwell, Cass, and the Oak, Banks. !J Out of seven ships that sailed that year, one (the Marlborough) was lost, 4 returned clean, that is, without jhsh, and the other 2 had but 1 fish each, one of them small ! t The first shipwreck was that of the Peggy in 1771, the last that of the Marlborough in 1792; the Nautilus was burnt, Feb. 28. 1795. 566 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. brought home only 27 whales; 3 being clean, and 6 with one whale each. The most successful years were 181 1 and 1814: in the former, 7 ships brought home J71 whales, producing IS 81 tons of oil, and 3d tons of fins; in the latter, 8 ships brought 172 whales, producing 1390 tons of oil, and 42 tons of fins. The whole number of whales brought to Whitby, in 50 years, from 1767 to 1816, inclusive, amounts to 2761;* of which number more than one half have been brought home within the last 14 years. 1 may also remark that, of the total number, no less than 1679 whales have been taken by 6 of the ships now in the trade: the Volunteer having, in 45 voyages, brought home 351 whales ; the Henrietta, in 41 voyages, 410; the Lively, in 32 voyages, 229; the Aim well, in 15 voyages, 191; the Resolution in 14 voyages, 298; and the William and Ann, in 10 voyages, 140. The success of the whale-fishery at its first commencement, and for many years after, bore no proportion to that of later years. In former times, a ship was reckoned well fished with 4 or 5 whales, and it was counted a great matter that Mr. Banks (captain of the Jenny, &c.) brought home 65 fish in 10 years; but, about the year 1795, or soon after, a new era in the whale-fishery began, and through the grow ing experience of our captains and seamen, the success of former times has been far sur- passed. In 10 successive voyages, beginning with 1803, the Resolution, Scoresby, obtained no less than 249 whales, yielding 2034 tons of oil ; and the Hen- * Besides above 25,000 seals, 55 bears, 43 unicorns, and 64 sea-horses, if not more. GREENLAND FISHERY. 567 rietta, Kearsley, brought home, in the last 10 voyages, 213 whales, producing- 1561 tons of oil. In 1811, the Henrietta brought 36 whales, the greatest number taken by any Whitby ship in one year; and, in 1807, she took 31. In 1814, the William & Ann, Stephens, brought 31 whales: in 1811, the Aimwell, Johnston, brought 30; and the Resolution, 30. This last ship also brought 30 in 1805, and 33 in 1804; and in 1814, under captain Kearsley, she brought home 28 whales, which produced 230 tons of oil, the largest quantity ever imported into Whitby in any one ship, and pro- bably the greatest quantity ever brought from Green- land, by any ship of a like burden. The Greenland trade employs a great number of our seamen, each ship carrying between 40 and 50 hands ; part of whom, however, are usually landsmen. The ships for Davis Straits generally sail in the mid- dle of February, and those for the Greenland seas in the middle of March. The time of their return de- pends on their success and the nature of the season ; the earliest arrival for the last 36 years is that of the Henrietta on June 13, 1808; the latest arrival that of the Two Sisters, Agar, on Sept. 8, 1790. The whales that are taken are cut up during the fishery ; and the blubber, being brought home in casks, is boiled at the oil-houses,* to extract the oil. For the encou- ragement of skill and diligence, all the officers and men receive a great proportion of their pay according to the tons of oil produced. * Sometimes a quantity is brought home in bulk, when the casks are all full. The oil-houses are on the river side, a little above the town; and are four in number, two being on each side the Esk. 568 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. To give the reader a more full view of the whale fishery during the last 14 years, the annexed table has been drawn up. From this table it will be seen, that the Whitby ships engaged in the fishery, have obtained during the last 14 years no less than 1443 whales, producing 12971 tons of oil. This success has been of immense benefit, not only to the owners, but to the town at large ; for a full ship is estimated to spend in the town, in one way or another, about £3000. The outfit is very expensive, the Whitby ships being remarkably well furnished : and hence an unsuccessful voyage is at- tended with great loss. To compensate for this risk, a bounty of 20s. per ton (formerly 40s.) on the ton- nage, of each vessel is allowed by government.* The expense of insurance is a great deduction from the profits of this trade, and of the shipping in ge- neral. The Whitby owners for the most part insure the ships of one another. There are three Insurance Associations in Whitby : the Mutual (Messrs. Chilton and Hunter agents) usually comprises from 130 to 140 ships, and the capital insured on them is from £260,000 to about £300,000 : the New (Mr. Robt. Stephenson agent) and the Neptune (Messrs. Ayre and Lockwood agents) contain from 60 to 70 vessels each. * On the other hand a duty of 8s. 3d. £ is paid for every ton of oil imported. I may here lake occasion to announce to the public, that a his- tory of the greenlands, from the pen of Mr. Wm. Scoresby, juur. may shortly be expected. That work, for which the writer is •well qualified, will not only enter fully into the details of the whale- fishery, but furnish a multitude of particulars concerning the natural history, &c. of Greenland, equally new and interesting. WHALE-FISHERY STATE OP THE WHALE-FISHERY FROM 1803 TO 1816, INCLUSIVE. Ships Volunteer Henrietta Lively Resolution Aimwell Experiment Oak Wm. 1*20441 . 1 1 71 1 (181 1812 I3| 1024 1 9 1 1564 1 1 1 10 25 1 203 16j 12' Valiant Mars 1 b| 147 Phoen ix 12|*180 I 1 112| 1020 1813 7, 1 79± II 104| 4| 484 10 97 7 67 337 343 10| 914 324 14| 1714 15| 17b 78 1 835 1814 17| 163 19 176 21 1 129 28 1 230 20 1 127 CAM Pi 0 n Sinclair FISHBURN AND CO. 31 | 1964 CHAPMAN 13|*t74| 23| 1934! 172| 1390 1815 2 AI 24 1 I41f 3| 60 Sis. | II | l44 I4| 2004 Scoresby 4| 664 A. Dawson 3|* 39 J 9| 1354 70 1 792 lolb 3| 32 20 1 168 5 1 674 i 1 1 854 23 1 181 fi| 764j 20 1 167 3| 484 2 47 | 10|*l604j i3| 61 1 15| 1094 Total... 108|I447A 264|2054f| 149|13234 298 2447| 183) 1636 66) 8I44! 32 1 247 1 40 1 12834 1 6 1 222 67 1 930 j 60 1 5654 1 443|i297 1 The whole quantity of oil produced in 14 years is exactly 12,979 tons, 60 gallons: a few tons being lost in the calculation, owing to the omission of the smaller fractions, or odd gallons: though, outlie other hand, where the odd gallons approach nearly to a ton, they are counted a full ton. It is necessary to notice, that part of this produce arises from seals, which are not entered in the table. In 1810, the Lively brought home 2000 seals : but the greatest cargo of seals ever brought to Whitby was by the Volunteer in 1774, being no less than 4200. They are valuable for the skins as well as the oil. It is common to reckon 1000 seals as equal to a size fish. The whales are called size, when the whale-bone measures 6 feet or up- wards. The whale-fins (or whale-bone) are also omitted in the tabie ; they were of great value till the fashion of wearing stays fell into disuse. A size fish yields, on an average, about 10 tons of oil ; but some of them produce double that quantity : for instance, the two fish brought home in 1816 by the Phoenix, produced (with 250 seals) no less than 46 tons, 223 gallons, wanting only 29 gallons to complete 47 tons. The whales brought from Davis Straits are usually the largest; as the reader may observe in the table, by examining the cargoes imported from thence, all of which are marked with an asterisk*. Thus the .lames, which has usually fished in the Straits, has brought home 930 tons of oil, produced from only 67 fish; being an average of nearly 14 tons to each fish. It must be remarked, for explaining the apparent disproportion between the whales obtained by the Esk in her last voyage and the oil produced from them, that 10 tons of her cargo were lost, and 50 tons were given to the John of Greenock, the captain and crew of that vessel having, by great exertion, assisted the captain and crew of the Esk, in saving the latter vessel from shipwreck when apparently inevitable. The price of oil is extremely variable: at present it is about <=£30 per ton ; in 1815, it was £42 ; in 1813, it was as high as <£52, and, in the London market, <£60. The average price for the last six years is £37 ; but, if we take in the whole 14 years, the average will be much lower; for, about 1805, it was down at £23. The prices of whale-bone are still more fluctuating, having varied from £30 to £150 per ton, during the last six years. The present price is about £80, which may be considered as nearly an average price. 7 w :■?,! H7/ I .*!;? i . ■ , : ■ / . -■ i ■ o ■; ’ < '(S’ f J‘ ■ -I**-! 1 C 1 ‘ ' . / — < };l- uS’ i < . . ; '■ . • : . . . , . . . .. . '■ 1 : ■ • ■ - r , ■ ■ : ; • . , • . .. > ' '• : - ' ' I ■ • ■ • '.V ■ . ; : \ HI- CUSTOM-HOUSE. 569 The Mutual Association insures on each ship not more than £2500; the New, not more than £800; and the Neptune, not more than £600. There is also an Association at Robin Hood’s Bay. Several of the ships insured do not belong to Whitby; and, on the other hand, there are several Whitby ships not insured in the Associations, particularly the Greenland ships, which owing to the great hazards to which they are exposed, are not admitted. To accommodate such vessels, and the shipping at large, there are six pri- vate Insurance offices at Whitby, some of which have been long established.* Whitby has had a custom-house ever since the reign of Charles II. A picture of that monarch, done in painted glass, now in a window of the custom-house, was probably executed in his reign, at the first esta- blishment of a custom-house here. The custom-house at its commencement was in Staithside, in or near the yard now called Post-office yard ; a situation which must have been very convenient while St. Ann’s Staith, in front of that street, was the only proper quay for the delivery of goods. It has now for many years been situated in Sandgate, near the Market Place.f The present officers on the establishment * In the General Shipping List, for 1816, drawn up for the use of Insurance offices, I find only 117 British ships stated to have been built at Whitby ; but that list is very defective. Perhaps the true number of Whitby-built ships now belonging to Britain is more than double that number. The value of all the shipping belonging to Whitby may be estimated at upwards of half a million sterling: at least, it could scarcely be reckoned less, previous to the recent depression in the value of ships. The house is private property, belonging to Mr. John Bolton. 4 D 570 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. are: Christ. Coulson, Esq. collector; Mr. Peter Max- well, his clerk ; Mr. Thos. Parkin, comptroller; Mr. Isaiah Moorsom, surveyor; 3 landing waiters; and 2 riding officers. The officers upon incidence consist of 7 tide-waiters and boatmen, 5 coal-meters at the alum- works on the coast, with the crews of two boats, the one stationed at Staiths, and the other at Robin Hood’s Bay, to prevent smuggling, each containing a sitter and 6 boatmen. The revenue of the custom-house, as might be expected, varies greatly according to cir- cumstances: the average annual sum may be stated at less than 9O0Oij ; but in some years it falls short of that amount by some thousands, while in other years it is several thousands above the average. The most productive year that occurs is 1814. The jurisdiction of the port of Whitby reaches from Hun tcliff- foot on the north-west; to Peaseholm beck, near Scarborough on the south-east; so that every vessel loading or delivering within these bounds, is entered at our custom-house. — The number of ar- rivals for the last six years stands thus : Years Loaden Ships Light Ships 1811 381 613 1812 348 548 1813 360 532 1814 384 575 1815 375 669 1816 385 565 It is proper to notice, that the light ships, in this list, consist chiefly of colliers and other coasters, tak- ing refuge in our harbour in stormy weather; all of which are entered as light ships, though many of them were loaden ; none being entered loaden but those which deliver their cargoes here. HISTORY OF THE TOWN. 571 CHAP. IV. MARKET PLACE, MARKETS, FAIRS, TRADES AND INTER- NAL COMMERCE ; GOVERNMENT OF THE TOWN, PROVISION FOR THE POOR. IT has long been generally believed, that before the dissolution of our monastery, the open space be- tween the church-yard and the abbey was the only market place, and that the ancient cross which stands there, was the market cross of the town, where markets and fairs were always held.* To this opinion I cannot subscribe. That cross, as will afterwards be shewn, was in all probability within the cemetery of the abbey, and served a very different purpose; and, though it was not uncommon, during the reign of popery, for markets and fairs to be held in church- yards, even on the Lord’s day,f we can scarcely sup- pose that our monks would so far degrade themselves as to admit markets into the cemetery of their abbey. It was their policy to keep the people at a respectful distance; and if, when the abbey began to prosper, a parish church was built for the laity, that they might not come into the abbey church, it is very unlikely that the people would be suffered to hold markets within the precincts of the abbey, a few yards from its magnificent church. Besides, from the first notice of fairs and markets at Whitby, they are uniformly * See the Addenda to Gent’s Hist, of Hull, and Charlton, p. 296 T Wilk. Concil. I. p. 666; II. p. 140, 282, 283. 4 d 2 572 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. stated to have been held in the town, and are connected with the right of burgage :* but there were no bur- gage tenements near that cross, nor any part of what was then strictly called the town of Whitby. It is clear from the charter of Richard de Watervill, and many other documents already referred to, that the town stood then where it is now; the buildings on the east cliff, near the ancient cross, being all, or almost all, appendages to the monastery. f But we have more direct evidence on the subject, in the account of the disputes between the abbot and Sir Alexander de Percy of Sneaton, where we learn, that it was at the port or harbour of Whitby that corn was bought or sold, that here were kept the standard bushels for measuring corn, and that here the market-clerk had his station. § These facts are decisive proofs, that the Whitby markets and fairs were held then, as now, not beside the abbey, but in the lower part of the town. In what particular part of the town the fairs and markets were anciently held, it is not so easy to de- cide. Perhaps they were held at various times on both sides of the river. The Fair isle, on the east side, was probably so called because Whitby fair was kept in its vicinity and indeed there is a wide space there in the street, which is still occupied in the time of the fair. The place where our markets are now held, on the same side, was a vacant $pot belonging to the * The Charters of Henry II, and Richard I, granted the monks burgage in the town of Whitby, and a fair to be held on the feast of St. Hylda: — “ burgagium et feriain ad festum Sanctae Hyldae.” Reg. f. 47, 48, 49. Charlton, p. 136, 147. | See p. 476, 477, &c. § See p. 321, 322. + See p.484. MARKETS. 573 Cholmley family in 1595; and it may have been a market-place prior to the dissolution. But the spot where the markets were usually held rather appears to have been on the west side ot the Esk, in the place that is still called the Old Market Place. This was the centre in which the three principal streets. Flower- gate, Haggleseygate and Baxtergate, met; and its proximity to the bridge, and to St. Ann’s staith,* where goods were anciently delivered, must also have pointed it out as the most eligible place. Here therefore the market was kept till about the year 1640, or a few years before, when it was removed under the direction of Sir Hugh Cholmley to its present station on the east side of the Esk. The growing population of the town, requiring a larger market place, was probably the chief reason for the change : and the same reason now loudly calls for another change, the present situation being so confined, that it has long been found ex- tremely inconvenient, though separate places are al- lotted to the shambles and the fish-market. Indeed, our weekly market not only crowds the Market Place, but fills up a good part of Church street, to the great inconvenience of all concerned. Yet, incommodious as the place is, it would be very difficult to find ano- ther, since every spot near the centre of the town is crammed with houses. f * It is not unlikely that a staith, or quay, for delivering goods, existed here in the time of the monks, long before the adjoining part of Haggleseygate got its name from the staith. See p. 495, with the Note there, -f The Market Place is only 35 yards, by 17 or 18 yards; and part of that space is occupied by the Town hall, &c. The old Market Place, had it been large enough, is more commodiously situ- ated; but it is only about 20 yards, by 7 or 8; though it was probably 574 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. There are two fairs held in Whitby, the one be- gins Aug. 25, said to be St. Hilda’s day ; the other is held at Martinmas : each lasts 3 days, but very little business is done at either. The first is the regular fair, held by proclamation; the last has come in by custom.* Our weekly market has been held on Saturday ever since the year 1445. f It was counted a great market, well supplied with flesh, fish, fowl, &c. in the time of Charles II :§ the supply is much greater now, though not so great in proportion to the number of in- habitants. Inland towns, surrounded by fertile plains, enjoy a greater abundance of agricultural produce, than towns which, like Whitby, have the sea on one side and moors on the other; yet the supply at our market is by no means scanty, much being brought from the numerous dales with which the moors are intersected, and even from the plains beyond them ; so that the prices are generally moderate. J larger in former times, the houses having encroached on it. A house that stood where Mr. John Morrell’s house and part of Mrs. Charlton’s noware, was called in 1609 “ the Market-stede house,” being fur- nished with shops and lofts, for the convenience of the maiket. See Charlton, p. 308. * There is also a Ruswarp fair, on the 6th of July (or on the Monday after, if that day falls on Sunday or Saturday); hut it is only a day of pleasure. — The cattle markets for this neighbourhood are held at Egton. f See p. 411. § Blome’s Britan, p. 251. See also Ogilby’s Britan. 4to. p. 272. This last author states that “The market on Saturday is very plentifully supplied with com and all sorts of provisions.” Perhaps this may be a mistake ; at least there is no com now exposed to sale in the market, though a great dc-al is often sold privately on the market-day. \ The prices vary so much at dif- ferent seasons and in different years, that it is difficult to eive any distinct idea of them. Beef, mutton, pork, and veal are at present about 5d. or 6d. per pound, but in some years past they have often reacned 9d_; butter varies from Is. to 2s. and even 2s. 3d. per lb. (of 20 oz.) eggs are from 6d. to Is. 8d. per dozen; geese and turkeys from 3s. to MARKETS. 575 The shambles are on the west side of the Market Place, and part of the south side is lined with butchers’ shops: there are also some other butchers’ shops in various parts of the town ; a circumstance not very conducive to its beauty or convenience, especially as the cattle are often slaughtered in the shops, or even in the streets. Great numbers of fat cattle, both small and great, are required for our market, and for sup- plying the Greenland ships and other vessels in the spring ; and there is scarcely any place where meat of better quality can be procured. I find from the census for 1816, that Whitby contains 37 butchers ; and there are several others from the country that at- tend the weekly markets. The jish-market has been for the last 27 years near the foot of Brewster lane, at the upper end of the Fish pier. Formerly it was held in Sandgate, at the opening opposite Ellerby lane, adjoining to the shop of Mr. Watson ; which opening is still called the Fish gaut. The sale of fish is not limited to market days, but takes place daily in favourable weather. The retail trade is chiefly conducted by women, who 6s each ; ducks and fowls from 2s. 6d. to 3s. per couple. The price of fish is still more variable : for instance ; haddocks are sometimes sold at 8d. or lOd. each, at other times a dozen may he purchased for 2s. or even so low as Is. ; and, in like manner, herrings when scarce are sold at Id. each, hut when plentiful you may buy 12 or more for Id. The following extract from the papers of late Mr. Wm. Chap- man, will shew the state of the Whitby market about the year 1726. “ Beef and mutton were at 2d. and veal lfd. per pound; and it Avas a great thing if a good calf sold to the butcher for 12s. Butter was reckoned dear at 4d per pound ; and it Avas a common saying, * as dear as eggs at three a penny.’ A chicken about the size of a pigeon Avas called a two-penny chicken. A cow and calf were from 3 guineas to o£3 12s. Haddocks Avere from lOd. to 20d, per score ; herrings from 10 to 20 for a penny.” 57G HISTORY OF THE TOWN. not only vend their fish in the market, but often from house to house. There are but 9 fishermen resident in Whitby, and 3 fish-mongers; the market being prin- cipally supplied from Stailhs, Runswick, and Robin Hood’s Ray. Sometimes the supply is less plentiful than might be expected; owing to the vast quantities sent off to the interior.* Garden stuffs, as well as fish, are sold daily, in their seasons, not -only in the market, but often from house to house. Milk is always sold in the latter way. These two articles are often brought from a consider- able distance ; and therefore the supply, though some- times scanty, is greater than might be expected. The number of gardeners in our population is 15; that of husbandmen, including carters, 36. — There is no meal market in Whitby, but it contains 7 millers. There is usually more business done in the shops, at fairs and on market days, than in the market ; not only because the country people are then supplying themselves with groceries, draperies, &c. but because Saturday is the grand day of purchase for the town itself, the wages of all workmen being usually paid on friday night. Shopkeeping, in its various branches, has long been a profitable concern, and many grocers and other shopkeepers have risen to great opulence. Nicholas Bushell, who purchased Bagdale estate, and other property, from Nicholas Conyers, in 1595, was a merchant in Whitby, in which profession he suc- ceeded his father Robert Bushell, who was a wealthy merchant here in 1573; Isaac Newton, who bought * The fisheries will fall to be noticed more fully in another place. TRADES. 577 the same estate, with other lands, from the Bushell family, in 1631, was a merchant in Whitby, as was also Christopher Newton, a man of considerable pro- perty : and similar instances have often occurred since. Their number is at present too great for all to pros- per, there being 30 drapers, and 52 grocers, includ- ing ship-chandlers and several small shopkeepers.* There are many respectable tradesmen in Whitby, and manufacturers of various articles for home con- sumption, by whom a good deal of business is done. The following are the numbers of those not already named, and that will not fall to be noticed elsewhere: shoemakers, including clogmakers, 161 ; tailors, in- cluding staymakers, 69; masons and bricklayers, 69; plasterers, 3; glaziers, 9; tinsmiths and braziers, 22; hatters, 9; saddlers, 7; watchmakers, 7; bakers, 26; brewers, 12 ;f hairdressers, 18; tanners and curriers,§ 22; tallow-chandlers, 5; cabinetmakers and uphol- sterers, 37 ; wheelwrights and turners, 3. There are also 132 labourers, several of whom are employed as porters. The town contains 7 jewellers’ shops, 6 hardware shops. 6 toy-shops, and 6 slop-shops : dealers in wine, 16; in ale and porter, 65; in spirits, 56; in tea, 72 ; and in tobacco, 83. || There is but one * In these numbers, apprentices and journeymen are included ; a remark which must be extended to the numbers in other employ- ments to which it is applicable. — It is worthy of notice, that Henry Awder (or Alder) of Whitby, compass-maker, bought some premises in “Hagglesey streete” in 1644. Perhaps he was a ship-chandler. f There are only 4 breweries. § The manufacture of leather was once carried on here to a considerable extent. At present there are only two tan-yards, that of Mr. Galilee, in the lane anciently called Baldby lane; and that of Messrs. Frankland & Wilkinson, at Boghall. || It is necessary to observe that the different businesses here enumerated 4 E 578 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. tobacco-manufacturer in Whitby, and indeed in the whole district, viz. Mr. Wm. Cockburn. Whitby is furnished with no less than 48 inns r coffee-houses, and public-houses, some of which are very ancient. The principal inns are, the Angel, the Golden Lion, and the White Horse.* The post-office is in the Old Market Place, in the house of Mr. Richd. Rodgers, postmaster. As there is no public building appropriated for this office, it has shifted from place to place, according to the residence of the postmaster. It was once in Staithside, and gave name to the largest yard in that street: it has also been in Ilaggersgate, and on the Quay; and at a more remote period, it was in Baxtergate, near the Angel inn. The post comes in every morning about 9 or 10 o’clock, and goes out every afternoon at one. The average annual revenue of the post-office may be stated at about ,£3000. It was not till the are not all conducted separately. For instance, the dealers in tobacco are most of them grocers, or innkeepers ; most of the dealers in spirits, wine aud ale, are innkeepers, and some of them grocers ; the tallow- chandlers are chiefly grocers; the jewellers’ shops are mostly kept by watchmakers, and the hardware shops by braziers, and part of the jewellers’ shops are also toy-shops. — In the list of trades I might have noticed 2 stocking.makers, and 2 worsted-manufacturers : and, that I may not seem to overlook minor occupations, I may add 8 sweeps, 4 besom-makers, 1 ratcatcher, and 1 molecatcher. There is but one resident Jew. In making up the census for 1816, no account was taken of the employment of females, except in a few instances. There are probably about 200 mantua-makers and milliners, including ap- prentices — I heard of no less than seven who follow the honourable occupation of sorceress or fortune-teller : and, it seems, they are so well employed, that another worthy matron has recently commenced business in the same line. * The Golden Lion was an inn above a century ago ; for among the writings belonging to the proprietor, Mr. Laurie, is a record dated in 1714, conveying the house to one Richd. Clarke, "together with tha Signe of the Golden Lyon and the balk or post whereon it hangs.” COACHES. 579 year 1784, that a regular post-office was established here: prior to that date, the office here was but a branch of the York post-office, and the post came in only three times a week.* Whitby had not the accommodation of coaches till the year 1788, when a diligence commenced run- ning twice a week to York.f This was succeeded, in 1795, by a mail coach which runs thrice a week; leaving Whitby on Sunday, tuesday, and thursday, at 1 o’clock afternoon ; and returning from York next morning at post time. A diligence for Scarborough, which meets one from Hull, began to run about the year 1793 : it sets out from Whitby every Sunday and Wednesday at half past eight in the morning, and meets the corresponding coach from Scarborough at Flask inn. The Sunderland coach commenced in 1796 : it leaves Whitby every tuesday and Saturday at 6 in the morning, meets the corresponding coach from Sunderland at Ormsby ; and both coaches reach their respective destinations about 7 at night. AH the coaches from Whitby run from Mr. Wm. Yeoraan*s, Angel inn : a remark which applies also to post-chaises, of which Mr. Yeoman keeps a good supply.§ There * Before Mr. Rodgers obtained the office of post-master (in 1812) that office had continued in the family of Dickenson about 90 years: previous to that period it was held by a family of the name Robinson. T It set out every monday and friday morning at 7 o’clock, from Mr. Brown’s, Turk’s head, and Mr. Mercer’s, White-Horse and Griffin, Church street, Whitby; while a corresponding coach set out at the same hour from Mr. Batty’s, Black Swan, Coney street, and Mr. Pearson’s, Red Lion, Monk Bar, York. Fare, inside 14s; outside, 8s. § The mail-coach runs to the York tavern, and the Black Swan, in York, alternately : fare, inside, of 1 4s.; outside, 14s. The Scarbo- rough diligence runs to the Bell inn: fare; inside, 9s.; outside, 5s. 4 e 2 580 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. are also caravans for goods and passengers to Scar- borough and Hull, and to Guisborough and Stockton ; a waggon to York once a week; and carriers to all the most considerable towns and villages around.* In the year 1793, a canal between Whitby and Pickering was projected ; for the conveyance of lime, grain, timber, &c. A survey was made by Mr. Wm. Crossley, engineer, under the direction of a committee, and a plan and estimate, with observations on the ad- vantages of this inland navigation, were published in 1794, by Fras. Gibson, Esq. chairman of the com- mittee. The length of the canal from Ruswarp to Pickering, by Growmond, Beckhole, and Newton Dale, was reckoned 25 miles ; the expense was esti- mated at £66447 ; the annual returns at £5017 Is. 8d; and the annual charges at £1652 18s. 4d.; leaving the sum of £3364 3s. 4d. for the clear annual revenue. f Could this undertaking have been carried into effect, it must have had a material influence in improving the trade of Whitby; but it was finally abandoned, and is not likely to be ever resumed. Indeed, the survey and estimate do not appear to have been correctly made ; and when we consider the almost insurmount- able obstacles to the formation of any canal in the pro- posed line, and the uncertainty of the expected returns. The Sunderland coach runs to the Bridge inn, Sunderland : fare; in- side, ofl 6s. ; outside, 18s * The York waggou sets out on tuesday morning at 2 o’clock and returns on friday night at 9. This concern has long been carried on by Mr. Andrew Allan, f The depth of the canal was to be 44 feet; width at top, 30 feet; and at bottom, 18 feet: each lock 24 yards long, 4 deep, and 4 wide. The number of locks is uot stated ; — a proof that the estimate was not very exact. BANKS. SSi it will scarcely be going too far to pronounce the scheme impracticable, and its advantages visionary. The commerce of Whitby is greatly facilitated by the banks, or banking houses. These are five in number; all highly respectable, and of several years standing. Two of them are more frequently called banks, having offices entirely appropriated to the banking business ; viz. that of Messrs. Simpson, Chap- man and Co. in Grape lane, and that of Messrs. Rich- ardson, Holt and Co. in the Old Market Place. The former is the oldest in Whitby, havingbeen established in 1785 as a regular bank, but begun by the late Mr. Simpson, as a private banker, about 10 years before. The latter commenced Sep. 26, 1788, under the firm of Messrs. Clark, Richardson and Hodgson. The present firm has only continued from Jan. 1st. 1816. The other three banks are all in Church street. Mr. Peirson’s bank was begun by that gentleman him- self about the year 1778 : that of Messrs Jon. and Jos. Sanders, by the late Mr. Jon. Sanders, or rather Messrs. Jon. Sanders and Sons, June 14, 1779: the present firm commenced in 1811. Mr. Campion’s bank was begun by that gentleman, in company with his mother the late Mrs. Marg. Campion, Jan. 2, 1800, and has been conducted by himself alone since Feb. 15, 1804. The notes issued by the three earliest bankers, viz. Messrs. Simpson, Peirson, and Sanders, were at first made payable in London, and many of them were post bills, that is, bills not payable on de- mand, but a few days after sight. It was in 1785 that HISTORY OF THE TOWN. SS2 / notes began to be issued in the present form, and the bank bills of the old form did not continue later than 1789. All the banks, of course, have correspondents in London. Messrs Simpson, Chapman & Co. draw on Messrs. Barclay, Tritton, Bevan & Co. ; Messrs. Sanders draw on Messrs. Masterman, Peters, & Co.; and the other three banks on Sir Win. Curtis, Robarts and Co. It is the happy privilege of Whitby that all its banks enjoy the full confidence of the public, and that on the best grounds, being all conducted by gen- tlemen of great property, and of well known integrity and prudence. Amidst the numerous failures of other provincial banks, the Whitby banks have remained unshaken. Indeed, it may be noticed as a proof of the prosperity and riches of Whitby, as well as of the pru- dence of its public characters, that during the great fluctuations in business that have occurred in the last 10 or 12 years, our town has experienced no shock ; no bankruptcy worth noticing has occurred. Whitby has had the honour of issuing coins as well as bank-notes. In the reign of Charles II, when the country swarmed with small local tokens of brass, the shopkeepers in Whitby had their share in the concern. Of the Whitby tokens then issued, one was inscribed, on the one side, henry sneaton. 1667., with the words his halfpeny within a small circle in the middle ; and, on the other side, in flowergate in wkitby, with the Whitby arms (3 snakes) in the centre: another has on one side william lotherington, with his halfpeny in the centre, and on the opposite side, in EXCISE. 583 whitby 1659, with w. e. l. in the centre. It appears that there was also a brass token inscribed i. riemer his halfpeny, and one which bore the inscription iohn hird his farthing. — Our town also took a part in the recent issue of silver tokens. The Whitby shilling lately in circulation is very neat : it is inscribed on the one side silver token, one shilling; and on the other, whitby association. 1811, with the Whitby arms on a shield in the centre. The stamp-office, a necessary appendage to a commercial town, has been kept by Mr. Geo. Clark ever since the year 1775. Prior to that date there was no regular stamp-office here, the principal stamps be- ing then procured from York. The average annual revenue of this office for some years past may be stated at £3500; but it is likely to be much lower, as a great proportion of the amount has arisen from the high insurances during the war.* There is no particular office in Whitby appro- priated to the excise, the business of that department of the revenue being transacted at the Angel inn. Thos. Jones, Esq. has been for several years collector for the Whitby district, which extends to Stockton on the north, Thirsk on the west, and Hornsea on the south. Mr. John Percy is collector’s clerk ; Mr. Geo. Robinson is supervisor for Whitby and the neigh- bourhood, where 5 officers are usually employed. The * In 1815, the policies for the insurance associations produced =£940, and those for the insurance offices o£1700; but, iu 1816, the former yielded only *£823, and the latter no more than =£474. For some years prior to 1816, much more business was done by the pri- vate insurance offices than by the associations. One office insured 414 vessels within one year: but it must be noticed, that the same vessels are often insured at various offices, as well as in the associations. 684 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. revenue of the excise, for Whitby alone, with its im- mediate vicinity, amounts to about £7500 yearly.* The government of the town, in regard to mat- ters of police, and the administration of justice in cases not amounting- to felony, anciently belonged to the abbot. The inhabitants of the town, as well as the freeholders and tenants in the country, were bound to do suit and service in the abbot’s courts, which were held by his seneschal, assisted by bailiffs, constables, and other officers. Had the charter of Richard de Waterviil been established, (lie people of the town would ’nave been exempted from the jurisdiction of those courts, and would have enjoyed the privilege of holding courts of their own, to determine their own differences, and regulate their own affairs. This pri- vilege, as we have seen, they lost through the jealousy of the monks. Yet, it would appear, that, to gratify * In noticing this department of the revenue, a singular circum- stance deserves to be mentioned. Above 90 years ago, a quantity of rock salt, amounting to 784 bushels, was imported into Whitby; and, being intended for the curing offish, was admitted duty free, but placed under the surveillance of the officers for the salt duties. It was lodged in a cellar or warehouse at the further end of the New way; and, owing to some unaccountable circumstance, was never used. AVhen the salt duties were transferred to the board of excise, the keys of the warehouse were delivered to the officers of excise, in whose custody the salt still remains, unclaimed, and unused, aud very likely useless. At the time of this transfer, about 20 years ago, the warehouse was opened, when the salt was found consolidated into one mass, and with great difficulty was broken to pieces and weighed. Since that time the cellar has continued shut up like a haunted house. The premises once belonged to a captain Simpson, the same gentleman who built a dry dock on the east side of the Esk (see p. 551, Note) ; and he is supposed to have imported the sail. They are now the property’ of Mr. Thos. Waite, who having applied for rent to the board of excise, some years ago, received permission to throw the salt inlo the sea, but not to sell or use it; and the expense of carrying it out to sea being thought greater than the worth of the cellar, the salt still reposes ill its unfrequented mansion. COURTS. 585 the inhabitants, a jury chosen from among themselves were still allowed, under the superintendence of the abbot’s seneschal, to regulate the internal concerns of the town. At least we know, that a jury, or town- council, of this description, under the name burgesses, existed about the year 1600; and continued in some form ever since, till about 15 years ago.* As the in- stitution of burgesses is necessarily connected with the manorial courts of Whitby, the one will fall to be considered along with the other. There are two different courts belonging to the manor of Whitby, the one called the court leet with VIEW OF FRANKPLEDGE and COURT BARON in the SHERIFF’S torn, the other called the court of pleas and court bAron. The former is the great court, now held an- nually, after michaelmas; the latter is held every third monday. The court of pleas is chiefly employed in the recovery of small debts ; that is, debts not exceed- ing a£10. The court leet is intended for trying and punishing misdemeanors ; preventing encroachments on the privileges of the lord of the manor, the rights of individuals, or of the public; and deciding disputes relating to boundaries, or matters of a similar kind. The records of the court of pleas have been continued, with some interruptions, from July 25, 1676: it seems * “Richard Thompson ofWhitbie, Burgis of the same towne, ” occurs in 1608; and “ Wm. Beck ofWhitbie, burgess,” in 1625. I have no direct evidence of the existence of the jury of burgesses before the dissolution; but as the town was frequently called a burgh, as the cess paid to the abbot for the houses or tenements was called burgage, and as we find burgesses mentioned not many years after the surrender, it is probable that this jury, or council, existed in some shape from the time of the abbot Richard I. 4 F 586 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. to have met always on monday, once in three weeks.* The records of the court-leet are far from being as entire: at least few of its minutes have come to my knowledge. The oldest are dated in April, 1684. At that period, and for a long time after, this court was held twice a year, viz. after easter, and after michael- mas ; and sometimes, by adjournment, at other seasons. The seneschal, or steward, of the lord of the manor presides both in this court and in the court of pleas. Mr. Durand Hotham held this office under Sir Hugh Cholmley in 1684. At that time, two juries were em- ployed in the courts ; one consisting of burgesses, usually 15 in number, whose province was to try of- fences against the good of the town and the interests of the lord of the manor ; the other, consisting of a like number of persons, whose attention was directed to of- fences against the king. The burgesses formed a kind of standing jury, as they generally continued in the office during life : the other jury was renewed every half year, a change which was the more necessary, as they were bound to attend in the court of pleas as well as * The records were all kept in Latin till the year 1732. In the time of Sir Hugh Cholmley, in 1676, &c., debts ofj.60, or even £ 100, were recoverable in this court. Thus under Sept. 26. 1676, is this entry; “Jacobus Weatherall queritur de Samuele Gill de placito trausgr. supei casum. Ad Dampnum 60 li”; and, under Dec. 5. 1676; “Thomas Chapman queritur de Willielmo Stephenson de placito transgr. super casum. Ad Dampnum 100 li ” Actions for debt are still entered in the same form, but in English : thus the last quoted would now be entered; “Thomas Chapman complains of William Stephenson in a plea of trespass on the case — Damages: <£100.” The court of pleas has the power of distraining on the goods of such as disobey its deci- sions, after 3 warnings, or proclamations, issued on 3 successive court days. This form of giving 3 warnings corresponds with that prescribed in the charter of the abbot Richard I. COURTS. 587 in the court leet. The jury chosen at one court leet were bound to present to the next court the offences which they had discovered in the interval,, and the burgesses were bound to make a similar presentment on each successive court day.* The presentations were sometimes numerous ; and at that period the police of the town was very strict, and justice seems to have been impartially administered. f * At the court held, Oct. 14. 1684, Henry Sneaton, then prin- cipal burgess, or foreman of the burgesses, was fined <£5, for neglecting to summon his fellow burgesses, during the interval between the court days, to inquire into matters belonging to their office, j- Some were presented and fined for public frays, or quarrels; some for exposing to sale bad articles, or articles short of weight ; some for letting their pigs run at large; some for not cleaning or repairing the street before their doors ; and a great many for nuisances of various kinds in the streets. On this last score, the lord of the manor himself was frequently fined, as he bad vessels in some of the streets for receiving an article then much used at the alum-works; and the Earl of Mulgrave and a Mr. Shiptou, were fined on the same account. — A few instances may serve as a specimen of the vigilance of the burgesses, and of the king’s jury. They are not expressed in the most classical Latin, yet, from the na- ture of many of the subjects, the reader will scarcely regret that they are not translated. All the instances belong to 1684 and 1685. Jura- tores summoniti &c. sic presentant super sacramentum — Quod Hugo Cholmley Baronettus habet cisternam ad vastum Ander ad nocumentum vicinorum; ideo in miserecordia — ‘2 s. 6 d — Quod Matheus Shipton gen. permittebat vasa urinae stare in publico strato, et aliam iinmun- ditiem; ideo in miserecordia — 5s. 4 d. Quod Johannes Thompson et Jacobus Hill permittebant uxores abuti Constabularium, et assistantes; ideo &c. 3 s. 4 d. Presentamus — Honorabilem virum Comitem de Mulgrave quia permittebat vasa urinae stare in duobus locis in strato ad nusantiam villae; ideo in miserecordia — 6s. — Hugo Cholmley Baronet, qnia non mundabat Auder wast impediens cursum aquae — 3 s. — Henry Wilson quia jaciebat immunditiem in tergo Hospitahs — 6 d. — Tobiam Taylor de Waplay pro exponendo ad vendendum in mercato de Whitby corruptos et putres carnes — 1 s. — Willielmum Huntroids eo quod cum gladio insultum fecit in Georgium Brown Constabularium et eum vul- neravit cum gladio; ideo amerciamentum ei imponimus — 39 s. 11 d . — Cutberson et socium suum eo quod publica provocatione facta prodibant super scenam et pugnabant mutuo ad affusionem sanguinis; ideo &c. — 6 s. 8 d.— Willielmum Hornby de Deane Hail pro defectu ponderis in Butyro — 3 s. 4 d . — Isaacum Newton generosum eo quod impulsu et 4 f 2 588 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Where the Whitby courts were held prior to the erection of the toll-booth does not sufficiently appear : but I am strongly disposed to thinly, that, for several ages, the place of meeting was in Plowergate, in a house called the correction house. This building was on the north side of that street, and on the west side of Clifflane, and had a yard behind it called the cor- rection-house garth, reaching to the water course, or gutter, adjoining to the bake-house in Clifflane. These premises were divided, and let for 1000 years, by Wm. Cholmley Esq. in 1654, having ceased to be used as a correction-house a few years before :* now as the toll- booth, or town-hall, was built at that very period, in the new market place, there is reason to believe, that both houses served the same purposes, and that the old was superseded by the new ; especially as the lower part of the latter was made the hoppet, or prison. The toll-booth, as its name imports, was intended, among other uses, as a place to accommodate the of- ficers who collected toll or custom for the lord or lady avisamento suo fecit Libellum scan(talosum fixari super pontem de Whitby — Ambrosium Newton eo qd. fixabat scandalosum libellum super pontem de Whitby, ideo &c. 5$. — Johannem Hird junior et Mrs. Jackson eo qd. stratum in frontispio domus non est in bona re- paratione — 1 s. 4 d. — Oswaldum Thompson pro strato and frontispicium esse in decasu — 1 s.— -Willielmum Wiggener eo qd. area mercati est in decasu — 3 s. 4 d. * Part of the correction-house garth was let to Sam. Nellest, and is now included in the premises of Mr. Jas. Me Lachlan and the pre- mises immediately behind ; the correction-honse itself, with the rest of the garth, was let to Fras. Wilson, whitesmith; and the premises of Mrs. Andrews, and others, adjoining to Flowergate on the south and Clifflane on the east, now occupy the spot. When the bakehouse in Cliff lane was let for 1000 years in 1654, the purchaser, Robert Breckon, engaged to leave a footpath through the bakehouse-garth, for the inhabitants of the correction-house. TOWN- HALL. 589 of the manor, at markets and fairs, and for holding’ a court of piepowder ,* for deciding any differences arising at the fairs: so that when the market was removed to the east side of the Esk, the toll-booth, or court-house, behoved to follow it; but when the markets and fairs were held at the foot of Flowergate, the correction- house was conveniently situated for the purposes now mentioned, and had probably been used as the toll- baoth, both before and after the dissolution. The toll-booth in the Market Place was built by Sir Hugh Cholmley in the year 1610; and his son Sir Wm. Cholmley supplied it with a town-clock about 20 years after. This building becoming decayed, or be- ing deemed unsuitable to the improved state of Whitby, was taken down by the late Nathaniel Cholmley, Esq. who, in 1788, erected in its stead the elegant town- hall, of which a representation is here given. * Pie-poudre — dusty-foot. This court seems to have been so called from its being frequented by country men with their dusty feet. 590 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. This building is constructed of hewn stone, and covers an area of 11 yards by 9. Instead of having a hoppet in the lower part, it is open underneath, so as to admit stalls on market days. It is supported and adorned on each side by 4 handsome pillars; and in a kind of central pillar is the staircase, which enters into the middle of the room, or hall, above; a part of the plan more calculated to add to the beauty of the build- ing without, than toils warmth and convenience within. Like the former tollbooth, it is surmounted by a small spire with a bell, to summon the inhabitants to attend the courts; and is also furnished with a clock, procur- ed at the expense of the town, at the time of its erec- tion.* The hoppet being displaced by the erection of this town-house, a new one, with two apartments, or cells, was built on the Quay. It is seldom used, ex- cept to terrify juvenile offenders. From the old records of the court-leet, it appears that at the half yearly meetings, there were chosen, in addition to the jury of fifteen, two ajfearors, whose province was to assess damages, and take the most active part in presenting offences ; two constables, one for the burgesses, and one for the public. Corresponding with the two juries then in use; and two surveyors of the highways; besides leather-searchers, bread-weigh- ers, and similar officers. As all these officers would be required to give an account of their proceedings, the business of the court must have been considerable. * The bell is also rung every morning and evening at 6 o’clock. Our town-clock would have been far more valuable, and have needed less regulating, had it been made to go 8 days, instead of only ‘24 hours. BURGESSES. 591 Daring' the last thirty years, this court, and likewise the court of pleas, have greatly declined, being merely the shadows of what they once were. Indeed, till within these four or live years, when some revival has taken place, both courts seem to have almost become extinct. This decline may be attributed partly to the non-residence of the lord of the manor, partly to the growth of a spirit of independence, arising from an increase of wealth, and partly to other causes. Could these manorial courts be restored to their former in- fluence, it might tend much to the benefit of the town ; but the same causes which produced their decay, will obstruct their revival.* The institution of burgesses, which lasted for so many ages, was laid aside above 15 years ago : nor is it likely to be again restored, since, even before it was discontinued, almost all the business formerly trans- acted by the burgesses, had been taken out of their hands. In former times, all the assessments in the town were under their management ; such as land-tax, high- way cess, constable’s cess, church cess, chapel cess, and poor cess.f Some of these cesses being abolished, * The courts are held under the direction of Mr John Marshall, steward ot the manor; and are now kept up with much more regularity than in some former years. A jury of 13 is elected at the court leet, besides two constables, two affearors, and four presenters. The jury and officers chosen at the court leet, assist at the court of pleas, now held regularly every third monday. f The burgesses had also the charge of the piers, prior to the appointment of trustees by act of parliament ; and used to impose a pier-cess on ship-owners, at so much per keel, for the support of the piers. — They had a dinner once or twice a year, at a public-house, where they also held their occa- sional meetings for laying on cess, &c. About 1720, and for many years after, their meetings were usually held at a Mr. Chas. Light- foot’s in Sandgate. About 1740, and for many years after, their HISTORY OF THE TOWN. 592 or united with other cesses, or regulated by trustees appointed by act of parliament, scarcely any thing remained for the management of the burgesses except the poor-rates, which are now laid on at the quarterly meetings of the inhabitants held at the church vestry. To regulate the poor-rates, and attend to the support of the poor had long been an important part of the duty of the burgesses ; and their poor-cess books, from 1697 and downwards, are still in existence. The assessment is computed at so much per week; and in a few of the earliest years it was laid, not only on house-rent and stock in trade, but on money out at interest. That this and other assessments might he equalized, it was necessary from time to time to take an account of the rental ot' the town, and some of the surveys thus made are preserved among the records of the burgesses ; particularly those for 1709, 1721, and 1736. They are interesting documents as they serve to throw light on the progress of the town, and the history of families; a remark which will apply to the whole series of (lie cess books. In 1709, there were 300 houses, or tenements, in Whitby that paid cess, the whole annual rental of which was estimated at £1756 10s.; in 1721, when the survey seems to have place of meeting was at Mrs. Grace Waynman’s >u Bridge street ; though about 1750, they occasionally met at Mrs. Calvert's, and at Mrs Wastell’s, both in the Old Market Place. The Golden Lion, one of the two last named, was long their favourite resoit; and their last place of meeting was the Angel inn. An account of their expen- diture on such occesicus, with other incidental charges, &c. from the year 17 '20 and downwards, has been preserved. Their expenses were very moderate: in the dinner bill for 1734. and several other years, they were only charged 6d. each, it would seem that the dinner hill was sometimes paid by the iord of the manor, (beiDg on court-days) and more recently by themselves individually. POOR-RATES. 593 combined the stock in trade with the rental, the houses assessed were 340, and the rental was stated at £2995 10s.; in 1736, we find the assessed tenements 717, the. rental £3012 9s., the stock in trade £2672 13s., yearly cess £283 19s. 3d., weekly cess £5 8s. lld.^ To give the reader a view of the state of the poor- rates, from 1697 to the present time, the following table has been constructed. Years. Tenements assessed. K "t§ O $>. Weekly Rate. Yearly Rate. Yearly Expenses. Paupers in the Workhouse. Regular Pensioners. s. d. L 5. d. L. s. d. L. S. d. 1697 295 127 14 8 130 13 5 68 1700 355 3 5 11 158 4 0 174 5 If 73 1710 341 3 6 8 83 1720 433 4 17 9 100 1730 498 4 19 0 30 35 1740 560 5 10 7 287 10 4 317 7 H 42 1750 582 6 17 0 356 6 2 397 2 m 50 48 1760 369 6 6 0 327 12 0 311 10 Of 35 10 1770 369 6 9 0 335 11 3 396 19 7 50 30 1780 405 5" 11 4 711 3 8 806 2 o 38 1790 410 8 Of 1555 1 5f 1593 19 6 80 1802 451 8 9 1473 14 n 2035 0 Of 120 1810 507 14 0 2467 1 3J 3710 1 Ilf 128 1815 527 9 9 2237 15 Hf 2855 2 *51 ~ 2 110 N. B. — Part of the accounts for 1800 having fallen aside, 1802 is given in its stead. Where the numbers or sums for any year have not been correctly ascertained, it has been thought better to leave blanks, than to fill up the numbers from conjecture. The yearly rate sometimes varies from the weekly, the cess being often collected for more weeks, or fewer weeks, than 52. * In 1709 the stock in trade, including money at interest, amounts only to =£937 10s., belonging to 26 persons. In 1736, no less than 209 persons are charged for stock. It is observable, that in 1709 and 1721, the officers of the revenue are taxed according to their salaries, and charged much higher than the other inhabitants. The collector of the customs in 1709 had <£40 salary, rate 8<£, the sur- veyor and landwaiter, <£25 each, rate 5£’ ; the tidewaiter, <£20, rate 4=£ ; three boatmen, <£16 each, rate 3£ 4s.; two excise officers, <£40 each, rate 5<£. In 1721, the collector’s rate is £ 6, and the rest 4 G 594 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Since the year 1786, the stock in trade and keels of shipping have been assessed separately ; the annual rate was Is. 6d. per keel, and 17s. 6d. per cent, on stock, till 1814, when it was reduced to Is. per keel, and the same rate laid on each £100 of stock as on each pound of rent. Throughout the same period, the assessment has been calculated for every quarter, instead of every week. The cess on stock and shipp- ing is included in the general amount of assessment in the table. That amount is often much below the gross expenditure; the excess in which arises from the sums laid out for supporting the families of soldiers in time of war, maintaining the paupers of other parishes, keeping illegitimate children, &c.; for which the over- seers are re-imbursed, in whole or in part. The ex- tent of the rate on stock and keels of shipping may be seen from this list. Years. No. assessed Amount of No. assessed Amount of for stock. stock rated. for shipping. heels rated. 1787 152 o£T0,770 77 1334 1790 196 11,770 74 1352 1802 215 12,210 57 560 1810 179 12,480 33 261 1815 163 11,850 23 131 The great decrease in the assessment on shipping is to be ascribed to two causes; first, the exemption of vessels formerly rated, viz. vessels not completing their voyages at Whitby ; and, secondly, the removal of a great proportion of the ship-owners into the town- in proportion. The number of officers for that year is 12, but they are not all particularised, except by mentioning their names. The surveys for 1709 and 1721, however, seem both to belong to the assessment for land-tax; for 350 tenements paid poor cess in 1709, and 458 in 1721. In 1736, when the survey was made for the poor assessment, there were 717 tenements entered on the cess list, but only 597 ac- tually paid cess. POOR-RATES. £ 9 § ship of Ruswarp, where they completely escape the shipping assessment.* The reader will observe from the lists, that, since the year 1750, the number of assessed tenements, in- stead of increasing with the population and wealth of the town, has declined; and that, since the year 1802, the number of persons assessed for stock has also declined. This diminution is easily accounted for. While the rates were [easy, a greater number of the inhabitants were able to pay them ; but, in proportion as the load increases, the number of those who are able to bear it must diminish. But the principal cause of this decline is, that a great many respectable fami- lies have removed into the township of Ruswarp, and the chief increase of Whitby has taken place on that side. In 1750, the town of Whitby was all included in the township or constahlery of Whitby, except a very few houses : but at present it occupies part of three townships. On the east side of the Esk, all the houses south of Green lane are in the township of Havvsker cum Stainsacre, and a great part of the west half of the town lies in the township of Ruswarp; viz. the whole of Bagdale, with the houses south of Bag- dale beck ; part of Scate lane, of Plowergate, and of Cliff lane; and the whole of Silver street, Skinner street, and the buildings west of them. Hence; while the assessed tenements in the township of Whitby have declined, those of Ruswarp have rapidly increased; * The greatest assessment on stock has been paid by the Sanders family ever since 1787; the greatest on shipping was formerly paid by the Chapman family : at present Mr. John Anderson, junr. pays most for shipping. 4 C 2 596 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. as will be seen by inspecting the following table of poor-rates, &c. for that constablery. Years. Tenements assessed. Annl. Rate per Pound Rent, s. d. Amount of Gross Assessment. Expenditure. L. s. d. L. s. d. Paupers regularly supported. 1771 85 0 7 52 8 6 | 9 1780 132 1 0 102 15 0 102 19 6 25 1790 174 1 8 187 16 8 227 19 58 1799 236 4 0 612 10 0 684 4 9 90 1815 285 6 0 1119 2 0 1059 7 H 120 By comparing this table with the former, which includes only the township of Whitby, the reader will perceive that, through this awkward division of the town into constableries, the inhabitants of the Rus- warp part pay only half as much poor-rate as those in the Whitby district, and often considerably less. This disproportion is more likely to increase than diminish ; for, though the middle part of the town will always be most adapted for business, gentlemen who are retired from active life, and those for whose business a count- ing-house or office is sufficient, will generally prefer a residence in the Rusvvarp district. Many genteel houses in Whitby have been deserted by the rich, and parted into small tenements, from which no cess can be exacted. The first workhouse at Whitby, for the reception of the poor, was built in 1726 and 1727, on a piece of waste ground in Church street, close on the harbour, near the present opening at Boulby bank. The ground was given by Hugh Cholmley, Esq., and the building was raised by subscription, under the direction of the burgesses. It began to be victualled for the admission of the poor. Sept. 30, 1727. During several years, the POOR-RATES. 597 number of paupers in the house rarely exceeded 40; but it afterwards increased to above 70 ; and, the house being too small to accommodate the poor, the out-pen- sioners multiplied every year. At last, in 1793, a sub- scription was made for building a new poor-house, amounting to £1684 15s.; and the present spacious house, was erected in a held near Green lane, called the little close , in a most pleasant and healthful situa- tion. The new house was opened May 2, 1794, when 50 paupers were brought to it from the former house. The old house was sold, and converted to other uses; it is now (a small part excepted) the property of Mr. Gideon Smales. The poor in the workhouse are em- ployed in such tasks as they are fit for ; but, as many of them are of a great age, much work cannot be ex- pected. The number in the house has seldom exceeded 130 at once, till this winter, when the want of employ- ment has driven so many thither, that in one week of Dec. 1816, the house contained no less than 173. Since the erection of the new house, the out-pensioners have been few ; yet much is expended in occasional relief. The Rusvvarp workhouse was built by subscription in 1804. It is agreeably situated on the Stakesby road, and will contain as many paupers as that township is likely soon to have. There are usually from 20 to 30 in the house ; but a much greater number receive stated relief as out-pensioners. Perhaps there are few places where the poor are better provided for than at Whitby ; yet our poor- houses, and poor-houses in general, appear to admit 598 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. of great improvements. I do not allude to any mis- management on the part of the masters, or of the overseers, but to general regulations which are not wholly under their controul. A poor-house, as now conducted, is often a receptacle for vice, rather than an asylum for honest poverty. The door is open, in- deed, for the industrious poor ; hut it admits with equal facility characters the most abandoned and worthless, with whom the virtuous abhor to associate. The most numerous tenants of the poor-house too often consist of such as have reduced themselves to poverty by idleness, and drunkenness ; lewd girls, with their illegitimate offspring; and others who are the very dregs of society. What is the consequence ? The many hundreds that are annually levied on industrious tradesmen and worthy citizens, are chiefly expended in supporting the lazy and profligate, while the real objects of cha- rity pine away in private, and bear up almost to the last extremity, under the pressure of old age, affliction, and distress, rather than herd with wretches so de- praved. It is cruel to force the deserving poor, either to starve, or to be thrust into the company of thieves, drunkards, and prostitutes. Far be it fiom me to in- sinuate that the guilty poor should be abandoned; yet they ought not to be suffered to contaminate the sober, or wound the feelings of the pious. Surely some remedy might be found. Might not a workhouse be made at once a house of correction for the bad, and a comfort- able asylum for the unfortunate? Might not each bouse be divided into two or more compartments, and POOR-RATES. 599 the poor, under the direction of the overseers, church- wardens, &c., distributed into them according to their character? Were the deserving placed in better apartments, with rooms for eating, sleeping, and working, separate from those of the worthless; were the latter not only secluded from the society of the good, but treated with more strictness ; and were some inter- mediate probationary rooms allowed to those of a mid- dling character, and the hope of promotion held out as a stimulus to good behaviour, the institution would not only give more satisfaction to the public, but might serve to diminish the sum of profligacy, which, in its present state, it seems calculated to augment. The measures now suggested, having a tendency to discourage idleness and vice, might eventually check the alarming growth of pauperism, and the consequent advance in the poor-rates, which are now felt by the public as a burden almost insupportable. On inspect- ing the tables given above, the reader will perceive, that the poor-cess in both townships is enormously increased within the last 40 years; and every reason- able means should be used to reduce it.* * Yet the increase is not quite so great in reality as in appear- ance; for in former times the assessment was laid on the real rental, whereas it is now made according to a modified rental, which in Whitby township is usually about two thirds of the actual rental, and in Rus- warp only one half. The assessed stock and shipping are modified in a similar way. The assessed rental of Whitby township for 1790 is <£3388, which is nearly the same as that for 1787, and very little be- low the present assessed rental. This plan of abating the rental doe* not appear to have been adopted in 1736, the rental for that year being given at no less than £'3012 9s. when rents were vastly lower than at present. Yet the assessed property at that time came nearer to the gross rental of the town, and the proportion was still greater in former periods, when more than half of the householders paid cess, In the 600 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The police of the town, as far as it respects the repairing and regulating of the streets, was managed by the burgesses till the year 1764, when an act was list for 1700, which seems to contain all, or almost all, the tenements then in Whitby, the whole number of tenements amounts to 670, of which no less than 355 paid cess. The cess, however, was extremely moderate; great numbers paid only a halfpenny per week ; only 14 persons in Whitby paid 9 d. or upwards, weekly ; and only 6 persons paid Is. or upwards; viz. Mrs. Mary Cholmiey, then lady of the manor, 2s. 3d. weekly ; Henry Lisle, gent. Is. 6d ; Win. Fotherley, Is. 3 rf ; Ralph Boyes, Is. 4\ d; Robt. Norrison, Is.; and Henry Sneaton, Is. lid. When the amount fell short at the year’s end, some more weeks’ cess was added by the burgesses, with permission of the justices of the peace ; so that the yearly assessment often consisted of more than 52 weekly assessments. — The old assessment books furnish several curious particulars. Henry Sneaton, who issued the Whitby halfpenny (see p. 582), and who was foreman of the burgesses in 1684 (see p. 587, Note) lived in Flowergate till 1707. John Hird, who issued the Whitby farthing (see p. 583), and was also a burgess in 1684, lived in Church street in 1697, afterwards in Haggersgate, next iu Flower- gate, and lastly in Baxtergate, where he continued till 1723. He is styled “John Hird, gent. Since p. 583 was printed, I have seen the farthing which he issued; it does not bear the words his farthing, which I copied from Charlton, p. 325, but has ou one side JOHN hird. in whitby, with three tuns in the centre; and on the other side, god save the king, with the letters I. e. h in the centre. — It appears from the cess- books, that Mr. Jarvis Coates, senr. (see p. 549) was in business, or at least a householder, so early as 1697, and that he died in 1739; that Mr. Jarvis Coates, junr. began to keep house so early as 1717, and Mr. Benj. Coates in 1733: the latter died iu 1756. It also appears that Mr. Thos. Fishburn, who first occurs as a householder in 1742, began shipbuilding in 1748, occupying the yard that had be- longed to Mr. Jarvis Coates, which however he did not purchase till 1759. Some of the dates, therefore, in p. 549, (for which I depended on the memory of an aged and respected friend) ought to have been more than 10 years earlier. — Several interesting particulars, respecting the number of assessed houses in each street at different periods, might have been given, had our limits permitted. I shall only add to this note, already too long, that, for the later records of the assessment, I am indebted to the present overseers for the poor, viz. Mr. Geo. Clark and Mr. Jn. Morrell, for Whitby, and Mr. Wm Darley, and Mr. Fras. Watkins, for Ruswarp; and that I owe the information derived from the mare ancient records to the politeness of Thos. Fishburn, Esq. in whose custody those valuable documents remain, that gentleman having the records of the burgesses under his care, during the last years of their continuance. POLICE. 601 obtained ff for paving, repairing, and cleansing the streets, lanes, &c. within the town of Whitby”; for which purpose 25 trustees were nominated, and a rate was laid on the town of Is. 6d. per pound rental for the first year, and 9d. for every succeeding year, one half to be paid by the landlord and the other half by the tenant; besides 2d. additional imposed on the lat- ter, for paying the wages of scavengers.* Among the trustees under this act were included the then burgesses (though not so designated), and their usual place of meeting, Grace Waynman’s, is named in the act as the house where the quarterly meetings of the trustees should be held. In the course of some years, it was found that the rate imposed by this act was inadequate to its objects, the trustees being above £600 in debt, and likely to run into more debt ; and, as it also appeared that matters of importance had been left unprovided for, a new act was obtained in 1789, re- pealing the former act ; and granting, in lieu of the rate on rental, a duty of Is. on each chaldron, or each ton, of coals delivered at Whitby, except the coals used at the alum-works. The trustees under this act, 34 in number, were empowered like their predecessors, to fill up their number on any vacancy, to borrow money, fix the rates of porterage, punish nuisances, pre- vent encroachments, &c.; and were further authorised to have the town lighted with lamps, and watched by able-bodied watchmen, and to widen the streets, where necessary, particularly the approaches to the bridge. f * The act began to take effect May 1st, 1764. f In this act, the town-hall is appointed to be the usual place of meeting for the 4 H 002 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. In virtue of these acts, vast improvements have taken place in the streets and lanes of Whitby, espe- cially in the approaches to the bridge : yet much remains to be done. The watching of the. town is performed very inadequately, and nothing has been attempted in regard to the lighting of it; an inconve- nience which is the more felt, as the streets, though in general well paved, are often badly swept. That the town is not yet lighted, however, is to be imputed to the want of funds, rather than to any neglect on the part of the trustees. It was natural for the trustees to attend first to the paving and widening of the streets; and, on finding the revenue provided by the act in- adequate to the accomplishment of both objects, they cannot be blamed for preferring to have the streets trustees, of whom 5 make a quorum. The quarterly meetings are on the first mondays in May, August, November, and February. The penalty on encroachments is 40s., besides the removal of the encroach- ment, if disallowed; the penally on nuisances, 40s.; on leaving carts in the streets unnecessarily, 10s; on erecting stalls in the streets, ex- cept on market days, 5s ; on the neglect or misconduct of a watchman, 5s. ; on lamp-breaking, not under 10s. nor above <=£5, besides paying damages; on masters of vessels trying to evade the duty, 40s. In both acts, it is enjoined, that the lord or lady of the manor, or the farmer of the tolls, must pave, repair, and cleanse the market-place; and that proprietors of water-works must repair the pavement, when taken up for laying pipes. This last clause is scarcely necessary, the town beiug supplied with water from several excellent wells. The best public wells in Whitby are the pier well on the west side of the Esk, and the saltpan well on the east. The latter derived its name from a salt-work said to have been established here by the first Sir Hugh Cholmley, but soon after discontinued. 1 find, from the cess lists, that about the year 1725, and for several years before and after, the houses adjacent, now a part of Church street, obtained the name of Saltpan, alias Wood street, the last name having arisen from that of Mr. Jos. Wood, from whom it was also called Wood’s quay. The south part of Church street, from thence to Alder’s waste, was termed Church Southgate, or Southgate of Church street, and the part between Alder’s waste and Grape lane was called Fair Isle , as was formerly noticed. See p. 484, 487, 555. POLICE . 603 well paved, though not lighted, than to have them at once badly paved and badly lighted. The duty on coals raises only about £300 yearly, and often con- siderably less ; and the trustees, instead of being able to pay off the debt of £600 contracted under the for- mer act, have been forced to contract new debts, by which the burden has accumulated to about £1400 ; and as the interest of this debt, chiefly incurred by the expense of widening the streets, must be annually paid, besides all that is expended every year in re- pairing so many streets and lanes, and besides the salaries of the receiver, clerk, and surveyor, and the wages of watchmen and scavengers, — it is easy to see that there is little or no prospect of having the town lighted, under the present act. Yet an improvement, so loudly called for, ought not therefore to be neglect- ed. It is a disgrace for a town so rich and respectable as Whitby to have no street lamps; especially as so much oil is imported in its own ships. The business ought to be taken up by the inhabitants at large, and the defect speedily supplied, either by obtaining a new act, or by a voluntary subscription or assessment. Were the expense of providing and fixing up lamps defrayed by subscription, a small addition to the high- way cess might suffice, under economical management, to meet the annual expenditure. The saving that would take place in lanterns, candles, &c. would al- most equal the amount. In the mean time, as the ex- pense of keeping the streets clean is very trivial, and ought indeed to repay itself by the sale of manure, the 4 h 2 604 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. trustees can scarcely be acquitted of blame, in suffer- ing the streets too often to lie in a state ill correspond- ing with that cleanliness for which the inhabitants of Whitby are otherwise distinguished. If we must walk in darkness, let us not also walk in mire.* The highway cess , or composition for statute labour, is very moderate in Whitby; there being very few highways in the township, distinct from the streets. f The assessed taxes amount to about £1400 yearly, besides £1 100 more for Ruswarp township. The preservation of public order, the prevention of crimes, and the punishment of delinquents, belong to the justices of the peace, of whom there have ge- nerally been two or more in this vicinity, from time immemorial. The present magistrates. Rich. Moorsom and Christ. Richardson, E^qrs., to whom Hen. Walker Yeoman, Esq. has recently been added, have done much for the interests of the town ; particularly by repressing several disorderly practices which formerly prevailed. They usually hold their sittings on Wed- nesdays and Saturdays at their office in Grape lane. * Few accidental fires occur in Whitby. To provide against such accidents, the town is supplied with 4 fire-engines, with their apparatus, 3 of which were purchased by subscription 10 years ago, to replace 3 decayed ones : 2 of the engines are placed in a small house in the area of the seamens’ hospital, the other 2 in a small house at Bagriaie well, t hey are all under the care of Mr. J. Lowrie. f The highway money is laid out in repairing the gauts or passages into the harbour, in repairing part of Green lane, with a few other ways or passages, particularly the way or street in front of the New buildings, which, however, is in Ruswarp townsiiip. Whitby also repairs the turnpike road, though not in the township, from the west end of Bax- terLate, thn ugh Bagdale, as far as the end of Waterstead lane; which is done in lieu of composition tor the turnpike road. The Dock com- pany maintain the road or street adjoining to the Docks, for which they are exempted from highway cess. VOLUNTEERS. 605 The inhabitants of Whitby are not much given io riot,* but are in general peaceable and loyal; and in seasons of danger have been ready to stand forth in defence of their country. In the time of Sir Hugh Cholmley, there were train-bands at W hitby and the vicinity ; 200 of whom could be collected at the short- est notice, to defend the town from an enemy. f During the rebellions of 1715 and 1745 the loyalty of Whitby was conspicuous. § In the seven years’ war there was a company of Whitby volunteers; and in 1780, dur- ing the American war, 4 companies of volunteers were formed, amounting in all to 200 men, under the com- mand of Major H. W. Yeoman, Capt. Lieut. J. Cam- pion, Capt. and Adjutant Henry Clark, Capt. Christ. Richardson, and Capt. Win. Richardson, with other officers. They were of course disembodied at the general peace. During the late arduous contest, in both its periods, the volunteers of Whitby have been still more numerous. In 1794 a company was formed under Capt. Fras. Gibson, which in 1795 gave place to 5 companies, amounting to 280 men, under Lieut. Col. II. W. Yeoman, Major F. Gibson, and Captains G. Atty, Jas. A tty, and H. Clark. In 1798, Capt. G. Atty * The most serious riot now remembered in Whitby occurred in 1793, when the sailors rose against the press-gang; and, having forced them to abscond, demolished their rendezvous, then in Hairgersirate. An old man who was seen encouraging the rioters, was condemned and executed at York as one of the ringleaders. f Memoirs of Sir H. Cholmley, p. 58. § It appears from the constables’ accounts for 1745 (among the records of the burgesses), that an association was then formed for the defence of the town, and a subscription raised, in addi- tion to a heavy assessment, for purchasing arms, ammunition, &c. Guards were mounted, a watch was kept, &c. 1 find 105 muskets among the arms then bought. 606 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. was succeeded by Capt. Jn. Elies by, and in the same year Lieut. Col. Yeoman was succeeded in the chief command by the Hon. Lieut. Col. Phipps. The corps was disembodied in 1802; at which time the principal officers were Lieut. Col. Phipps, Major Gibson, and Captains Blackburn, Parkin, and T. Yeoman, tae last of whom was also adjutant. On the renewal of the war in 1803, the volunteer system was revived. Two companies of loyal volunteer infantry were raised, amounting to 120 rank and hie, commanded by Capt. H. Simpson and Capt. J. Holt ; in 1806, on the resignation of Capt. Simpson, Capt. Holt became commandant of the corps, and Capt. 3n. Richardson obtained the command of the 2nd company. In 1809, the corps was mustered to volunteer into the local militia; when a part volunteered and the rest were disbanded. Three companies of volunteer artillery were also formed in 1801, under the command of Major T. Brodrick, Capt. T. Ivnaggs, and Capt. T. Preston, and remained embodied about the same period, in 1803, sea-fencieles were also enrolled for the defence of the coast, to the number of 300, divided into 10 companies, commanded by Capt. Preston, R. N., un- der whom Messrs. Jn. Bolton, Walter Cair, &c. as- sisted in directing the manoeuvres of this corps, which was armed with pikes and pistols, and had also 2 field pieces. It was kept up 3 or 4 years. The colour- be- longing to the different corps of volunteers are still preserved by the officers, ready to be again unfurled by the people of Whitby, if ever their country should require their services. HISTORY OF THE TOWN. 607 CHAP. V. PLACES OF WORSHIP AND RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS, PIOUS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS ; MANNERS, AMUSE- MENTS, AND SOCIAL INTERCOURSE; STATE OF LEARNING, AND ®F MORALITY AND RELIGION. Whitby contains 9 places of worship, belonging to 7 different sects or denominations of religion ; viz. 2 belonging to the episcopalians, or church of England; 2 methodist places of worship ; 2 presbyterian, but of different persuasions; 1 independent; i of the quakers, or friends; and 1 catholic. 'The parish church naturally claims the first place. The history of this building in its ancient form, with a description of its present state, having been given in a former part of the work,* it will be sufficient to notice here those transactions relating to it which could not be introduced before. The living of Whitby, having been appropriated to the monastery, was granted at the dissolution to the cathedral church of York; and became a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the archbishop. The benefice, according to Ecton, is valued in the king’s books at ,£77 7s. Id.; and pays £7 14s. 8-|-d. yearly tenths. * See p 366 — 370- In p. 368, some inaccuracies have escaped me in describing the church. The bands above and below the ancient windows run along the wall within the church, as well as on the out- side : the shafts aud mouldings which adorn the arch of the chancel appear only on the side next the church, except the inner shafts: and, tire term Gothic, applied to the porch, should have been restricted to the porch door. 608 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The curate receives only £50; viz. £10 from the archbishop, and £40 from the lessee of the tithes ; but the surplice fees in so populous a parish are not inconsiderable. The present lessee of the tithes is Henry W alker Yeoman, Esq.* It is not known who were the ministers of Whitby for some time after the surrender of the abbey: per- haps the presbyter who had officiated under the monks was allowed to retain his place during life. The suc- cession of the curates or ministers, from about the year 1570 to the present time, may be seen in the following Began to officiate. Robert Toes, afterwards minister of Skelton & Brotton,f about 1670. Daniel Toes, bis son 1598. Robert Remmington, afterwards chaplain to Sir H Chulmiey 1624. Geoige Conyers, son of Geo. Conyers of Fylingdales 1639. Richard Conyers, perhaps a curate under tiim 1648. John Eyes 1654. .Samuel Crossby 1659. Joseph Wood 1669. Robert Norrison. perhaps a stipendiary curate 1676. Luke Bagwith, a native of Whitby parish 1677. * As to the fees received at Whitby church, the minister’s dues, according to the terrier, are: For publication of banns. Is. 6d. — Marriage by banns, 2s. 6d. Ditto by license, 13s. 4d. Burial in the church-yard. Is. 6d. Ditto in the church, 3s. Ditto in the chancel, 6s. Ditto of a still born child. Is. Register of a baptism, 4d. Keepiug the registers, <£3 3s. yearly. Examining ditto, Is Certificate of marriage on stamp, 2s. Ditto of publishing bauus. Is. Churching a woman in the church. Is Id. Churching a woman in the house, 2s. 6d. Reading a citation. Is. Going to the visitation, £2 2s. yearly. Parishioners of Whitby married at other churches, are bound to pay fees to Whitby church, f In the register of burials for 1621 is this entry. “Robt. Toes Clark sometymes myuister of Skellton and Brotton departed this lyfe the 29 daye of June 1621, having served ther 23 years, and heretofore hath been mynister at Whitbie, and after him his sonne Danyell Toes was both myuister and preacher there till he died.” Daniel married Elizabeth, widow of “ Henrie Pearson, yeoman,” who, among other property, had a house in Baxtergate where that of Mr. Edward Nettleship now stands. PLACES OF WORSHIP. 609 Began to officiate. Wm. Burton, who married a daughter of Mr. Anlh. Arrundel 1688. Daniel Oiighton, A M. whose monument is in the church porch 1699. John Robinson, A. M. also minister of Snealon 1705. Thomas Farside 1734. James Berwick, rector of E. Heslerton 1736. Leonard Tyson, stipendiary curate under him... 1744 to 1751. T Slinger, ditto ditto 1765 to 1767. Robt. Darley Waddilove, A. M. (now D. D.) afterwards chap- 4 lain to lord Grantham ambassador at Madrid, now dean of > 1767. Ripon, and archdeacon of the East Riding ) Andrew Patrickson, stipendiary curate 1767 to 1773. Thos. Eirlin, also minister of Stillingtleet and Ricall 1773. Joseph Robertson, stipendiary curate, now perpetual curate of Sleights 1774 to 1781. Ilenr\ Archer, ditto, now minister of Churchover 1781 to 1787. John Atkinson, ditto, now minister of Somersham 1787 to 1799. Isaac Fearon, ditto, afterwards rector of Crofton 1799 to 1808. James Andrew, present curate under Mr. Egiin 1809. The registers of Whitby church begin with May 1. 1608. They appear to have been kept correctly since the year 1695; but prior to that year several chasms occur, especially about the beginning and the end of the commonwealth. During the time of the commonwealth, from 1653 to 1660, the records were not kept by the minister, but by a register named Wm. Jones, chosen by the principal parishioners. During that period, marriages were published sometimes in the church on sabbaths, and sometimes at the market cross on Saturdays : the marriage ceremony was al- ways performed before a justice of the peace, and there being then none at Whitby, most of the mar- riages were solemnised at Brompton, Pickering, Scar- borough, and Lofthouse. The registers before that period are chiefly kept in Latin, which is also the case with some of those that follow it.* * A few curious passages from the. registers may be acceptable to the reader. Such passages are generally entered in English. Bap - 4 i 61© HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The church lower is furnished with six excellent bells, procured from London in 1762,* The service appointed for Whitby church consists of a sermon tisms. “1613. Janry. 9th. Rychd. Fotherley the bastard and incestious sonne of Robert Folherley and Jane. — 1621. May 6. Richard ye. sonne of a woman that came from London and was brought a bed in y e . house of Robert Campion.- — 1697. July 23. Elizabeth the base daughter of Rich Lassells and Margaritt his mother in law — 170^. Feb. 8. Re- pentance, base daughter of Ambrose Newton and Mary Miller. — 173f March 15. Jane daughter of David Ogeloee a Dutch recruit from Sestland.” — After the commonwealth several baptisms of adults occur, some 20 or 30 years old. Publications. “ 1655. Thomas Jones and Mary Dunnington daughter of xpopher Dunnington, published in the markett, Septem. y e 8th, 15th, and 22d. — and Edward Dickinson of Yorke on Ihe behalf of one Katherine Liddal of York, sempstress, for- bad the proceeding to marriage, saying he promised her marriage and yt. she is wt. child to him — 1657 Rich. Foster of Egton Bridge Esq. and Mrs. Clare Mennel daughter of Anthony Mennell of Kilvingtoa Esq. published in the markett, July the 11th, 18th, and 25th. — lb60. Wm. Jones of this parish, register, and Mrs. Hannah Simpson daugh- ter of Mr. Wm. Simpson, minister of Lithe, published both in this church and Lithe church, June 3d, 10th, and 17th.” Marriages. — “ 1703. Dec. 19. Wiilm. Barton and Ann Ward of Dunsley, married at Egton by a popish priest, as supposed. — 1704. April 30 Philip Wright and Elizabeth Dales married at the Quakers Meeting. Aug. 22. Mr. Hen. Lisle chief constable and Mrs. Jane Twisden of the Abbey.” — Burials. “ 1635. June. John Treadgill and his sonne wth xi more of his companye beinge cast away at Whitbie was buried the 31 day * — 1654. May 16. John Swift, Thos Walker, and John Robin- son, being by sad providence drowned. — 1655. Wm. Jackson of Esk- dale side died felo de sc, buried May 3. — An infant unbaptized of Thos. Knowles. Decern. 23. — 1673. Sep. 4. Johannes et Anna An- derson uxor ejusdera Johannis in uno eodemque tumulo, uno eodemque die sepulti fnerunt. — 1674. Jan. 22. Nauta quidam Naufragus Swe- densis. — 1692. July 22. 4 seamen with their Lieutenant (all drowned) belonging to their Majesties ship the Milford Gaily. — 1694. April 27. John Ratcliff, slain by a great gun. — 1736. Dec. 1. Isabel Jones, widow, who had been a servant about the church above 50 years.” — It is singular that of the ministers of Whitby church very few have been buried at Whitby. The year 1816 having expired, since the population table in p. 518 was printed, it may be proper to add here, that the register for 1816 contains 348 baptisms, 253 burials, and 119 marriages. * In a note on page 540, I mentioned the ladder of ropes lodged in the belfry; but was mistaken in supposing it to be the one used by Wm. Turner, in saving shipwrecked seamen. * 2uery. How came June to have 31 days ? PLACES OF WORSHIP. 611 every sabbath morning, with prayers both morning and afternoon, and prayers on Wednesday and friday morning; besides occasional duties. There is also a sermon every sabbath afternoon, provided for by sub- scription. No organ has yet been procured. The church, though crowded with galleries, is scarcely suf- ficient to contain the congregation. Had the increase of the population been foreseen, the abbey church might have been reserved at the dissolution, to be the parochial place of worship. To repair that venerable structure now, supposing that it could be obtained, would cost more than the erection of a new church, built in the modern style. Were a new church erected, it would perhaps be most proper to have it in a situa- tion more warm and commodious than that of the pre- sent church; though it might be deemed a species of sacrilege, to remove the parochial place of worship from a spot consecrated by antiquity, and by the ashes of so many generations. The usual hour of burial at Whitby is 3 o’clock, P. M. from michaelmas to lady-day, and 5 o'clock during the rest of the year; but several of the genteel families bury in the morning, at 7 or 8 o’clock. The ascent to the church-yard from the town, is by a stair of 190 steps, with resting places at different distances.* About 24 years ago, the church-yard being very crowded, a large addition was made to it on the north ; so that it now forms (including the site of the church) an area about 120 yards in length from south to north, * There were formerly 195 steps, but the number has been di- minished in making repairs. Hearse funerals go round by Green lane; see p. 506. 4 12 012 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. of the same breadth at the south end, and half that breadth at the north end. The church-yard abounds with handsome monuments, which our limits will not allow us to particularize ;* a remark wh ch also applies to the numerous and elegant monuments within the church. Many belonging to the families of Moarsom, Richardson, Ward, Burgh, ore. are interred in the w est end of the church, beside the font; and many of other respectable families in the body of the church. The chancel contains 9 elegant monuments arranged along the wall; viz. 5 of the Cholmley fannly at or near the altar end, that of John Yeoman, Esq. on the south side, and those of General Lascelles, John Wilkinson Esq., and John Addison Esq., on the north. f There are also flat tomb-stones of several of the Cholmley family within the area of the altar table. * A flat tomb-stone of chocolate coloured marble, with very large belemnites and other petrifactions, lies on the east side of the south transept, inscribed to the memory of Margaret, wife of William Abie- son, who died 5 Nov. 1692. As the stone seems to have been smoothed to deface a former inscription, it is probabiy one of those brought from the abbey, and the only one that escaped the Gothic devastations cf Mr. Borwick, see p 353. The name of Rob. Hustler, who died Nov. 17, 1802, is inscribed on one side. In the same quarter, but close to the church wall, at the chancel door, is a flat stone, which bore the following- singular inscription, not now legible: “ Here lieth the body of Francis Huntrodes, sen. and Mary his wife, who were interred here on the 12th day of September, anno 1680. Husband, and wife that did ten children bear. Dyed the same day ; alike both aged were. About eighty years they lived: Five hours did part (Even on their marriage day) each dearest heart. So fit a match surely could never be ; Both, in their lives, and in their deaths, agree.” f The monument of Sir Rich. Cholmley, on the south wall, is the most ancient, and the most highly finished ; though some of the modern monuments have a more tasteful appearance. The inscriptien PLACES OF WORSHIP. 613 The benefactions left to the church, or the poor of the parish, are recorded on boards, fixed up against to Sir Richard’s memory is chiefly genealogical, and is as follows: DEPOSIT VM RICHARDI CHOLMELEY, EQVITIS AYR AT I, HF.NRICI CHOLMELEY EQVITIS AVRATI, FIL1I PRIMO-GEN ITI J RICHARD! CHOLMELEY EQVITIS AVRATI, CATHARINE CLIFFORD FIL13: HENRICI COMITIS CVMBRI35, NEPOTIS ; ROGERI CHOLMELEY EQVITIS AVRATI ABNE- POTIS, AB ANTIQVA FAM1LIA CHOLMELEYOR. DE CHOLMELEY IN COMITATE CESTRIENS1 ORIVND! : V1RI TAM EXTERIORIS CORPORIS DECORE SPECTABILIS, QV AM POTIORIB’ ANIMI DOTIBVS ADORNATU DOMINI HVIYS MANERI1. QYI POSTQVAM PER MVLTOS AXSOS IN H IS PARTIEVS EIRENARCHA DEPVTATTS LOCI M TfNENTIS REGIS, IT CONS1LIARIVS DN1. REGIS IN PART1EUS BOREALIB VSjSVB SERF.NISSIMIS RLGIB JACOBO ET CAROLO EXT1TISSET, TANDEM CORFVS SVVM BVIC SEPULCBRO, SPIRITVM YEP.O SVVM IMMORTALEM PATRI SPIRITVVM PIE PLACIDEQ. REDDIDIT, YICESIMO TEP.TIO DIE SEP. ANNO i£H,E CHRISTIAN,® 1631, A5TAT1S SV-ffi 51. EX SVSANNA PRIORE CONJVGE, F1LIA JOHANNIS LEGARD, ARM1G* 1 RELIQVIT KVGONEM CHOLMELEY EQYITEM AY’ RAT V M , ET HENRICUM CHOLMELEY ; PR,ETER RICHAR- DY'M IN TENERIS DEFVNCTUM, ET MARGARETAM NVPTAM G V LIELMO STR1CLAND EQY'ITI ; ET YRSVLAM, GEORG II TROTTER ARMIGERI CONJVGEM. EX MARGARETA, FILIA GVLIELMI COB, ARMIGERI, CONJUGE POsTERIORE, RELIQVIT RICHARDVM ET GVLIELMVM ADHVC SYPERSTITES. MARGARETA, RELICT A MiESTISSIMA, CONJVGI AMAN- TISSIMO ET BENE MERITO P. POSVIT. Of the modern monuments, that of the late N. Cholmley, Esq. bears the following inscription. IN MEMORY OF NATHANIEL CHOLMLEY ESQu. OF WHITBY AND HOWSHAM IN THE COUNTY OF YORK, WHO DIED MARCH llTH IN THE YEAR OF THE REDEMPTION 1791. HE WAS A MAN, BY ALL WHO KNEW HIM DESERVEDLY ESTEEMED AND RESPECTED; BELOVED, BY THOSE MORE INTIMATELY CONNECTED WITH HIM. AFTER A LIFE OF THE PUREST INTEGRITY & BENEVOLENCE HE WAS SUMMONED IN THE 70th YEAR OF HIS AGE, TO AN UNION WITH THE KINDRED SPIRITS, OF JUST MEN MADE PERFECT. The monument of General Lascelles, a native of Whitby, son of Peregrine Lascehes, who was foreman of the burgesses In 1685, con- tains this historical epitaph ; 614 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. the north wall of the church. Of these benefactions the following is a summary : A. D. 1657. Mr. Win. Cleveland gave £h per aim. to put two poor child ren apprentices yearly. 1668. Mr. Win. Wjggoner gave a silver chalice. 1711. Mr. Robt. Fotherley, and his sister Elizabeth, gave <£50 to buy church ornaments. 1712. Mr. Geo. Trotter, (collector of the customs) gave to the church 3 silver salvers. 1702 and 1715 Mr. Rib. Norrison, and his wife Elizabeth, gave £40 to the poor of Hawsker. To the Memory of PEREGRINE LASCELLES General of all and Singular his MAJESTY’S Forces, who Served his Country from the Year 1706. In the reign of Queen Anne he Served in Spain; and in the Battles of Almanara, Sarragossa, and Vil/a-viciosa Performed the Duty of A Brave and Gallant Officer. In the Rebellion of the Year 1715, he Served in Scotland : and in that of 1745, after a fruitless exertion of his Spirit and ability, at the disgraceful rout of Preston- pans. He remained forsaken on the feild. In ail his dealings Just and disinterested. Bountiful to his Soldiers, A Father to his Officers, A man of truth and principle, In short An HONEST MAN: he dyed March y® 26\h 1772, in the 88 1 . 11 year of his age. In the north transept is an inscription on a board, fastened on the outside of a pew, to the memory of Nicholas Bernard, interred March 13, 1671, &c. It is the privilege of the minister, to grant leave to bury in the body of the church: the lessee of the tithes has a similar privilege in the chancel. — The minister has also a right to nominate one church- warden, for Whitby township, while the parishioners choose another. The other townships in the parish choose church- wardens for ihem- selves The present church- wardens for Whitby are; Messrs. Rich. Moorsom, junr. and Rich. Kneeshaw : Mr. Rob Harrison is church- warden for Hawsker cum Stainsacre, and Mr Wm. Elgie, for Ruswarp, and Newholin cum Dunsley The minister, church-wardens, &c. make a procession round the boundaries of Whitby township, on ascension day. PLACES OF IVORS HIP. 615 A. D. 1722. Mr Win Pearson gave two bouses to the poor of Whitby, 1723 Mrs. Margery Boyes gaye L6 per annum, to put 4 poor children to trades; and ,£3 4s per annum, to put 8 poor children to school; 12d. per week to 12 poor widows; and one house for two poor widows. [This house yvas called Barivick house. Rumour places it on the Mount.] 1723 Mr. Wm. Coverdale gave o£20 to the poor of Hayvsker. 1725. Mr. Win. Wiggoner gave io the church a silver flagon. 1741. A large silver flagon yvas given to the church by Mrs. Noble, at the request of her late daughter Mrs. Coverdale, who yvas Wigginer.* 1736. Mr. Robt. Boulbv, and Esther his yvife, gave 2 houses in Clifl’ lane, for the use of 2 poor seamen, or seamen’s widows of Whitby. J 770. Mr Jn. Pearson gave ,£20 for buying church ornaments, and 2 tenements in the New yvay for the use of the poor. 1770. Adam Boulby, Esq. gave 6 tenements in Flowergate, for poor seamen, and seamen’s widoyvs; besides several other charities. 1789. Mr. Benj. Hunter gave <£100 to the church-wardens and overseers, the interest to be annually expended in clothing 4 poor fatherless boys, sons of seamen, when put apprentices, being 13 years old. 1808. Mr. Wm. Rvmer gave ,£100, the interest to be annually paid to the minister and churchwardens for purchasing coals, to be distributed about ihristmas among superannu- ated >eameu, or seamen’s widows, not exceeding one bushel to each. Next to the parish church, the chapel of ease demands our notice. The reader will recollect, that so early as the year 1396, there was a chapel in Whitby called St. Ninian’s, which probably stood at the north end of Baxtergate.f When the remarks on * These donations did not long remain to grace the commu- nion table at Whitbv, for in the night of Aug. 16, 1743, some sacri- legious villains broke into the church, and stole all the silver plate, except a small salver. The daring offenders, y.hose booty was valued at ,£80, yvere never discovered : the iron chest yvhich had contained the plate, yvas found in the cliff.— It yvas the custom from the time of the reformation to have a bible chained to a table in every church, for the parishioners to read. A very old bible, chained to a kind of reading- desk, behind the pew nearest to the font, remained till about 30 years ago. This custom, through the abundance of bibles, has happily be- come unnecessary, f See p. 371 — 374. In the Note on p. 373, I ought to have remarked, that though St. Ninian’s chapel has escaped the 616 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. that subject were written, the author was not aware of the existence of another chapel, on the east side of the Esk, which must have been in use under the mo- nastery, as it was an old chape! in 1595; only 55 years after the dissolution. This chapel stood on the south side of the area that is now the market-place; and indeed the building still exists, though under a form materially changed; having- been converted into tenements and shops above 150 years ago. It consists of the premises belonging to Mr. YYm. Adamson and Mr. Jn. Cockburn. Mr. Cock bum's part, which pro- jects into the Maiket Place, has been rebuilt; it seems to have been the chapel vestry. This chapel must have been connected with the parish church, in the time of (lie monks, when a house adjoining to it on the south was also church property. The reader will readily perceive, that this chapel is as likely to have been St. Ninian’s as that in Baxtergate; especially as its antiquity is more clearly ascertained.* Whether notice of Mr. Charlton, he lias mentioned St Ninian’s box in his pre- face, p. xv, and supposes the box to have stood in St. Mary’s church, near St. Ninian’s shrine : but that shrine is the creature of his own fancy ; and when l consider the original design of such boxes (see p. 371, 372), and that the amount put into St. Niuian’s box was greater than that in St. Mary’s, I have no doubt that St. Ninian’s was a chapel in the town. * Prior to the year 1595, this chapel belonged to Leonard Con- yers of Bagdale, and in that year it was sold by Nich. Conyers Esq. with the Bagdale estate, to Nicli Bushell. In the conveyance it is thus described: “And all that one howse called a chappell, lyeing and being- in the said towne of Whitbie, in a streete there called High gate, and on the west syde of the said streete, Betweene the lande of Henry Cholmeley Esq. toward the west and north, and one tenemente some tymes belonging to Whitbie churche towarde the south, and abutteth on the said streete towarde the east.” The house on the south, formerly church property now belongs to Mr. Jas Coupland In making the chapel into tenements, the stairs and partitions have been PLACES OF WORSHIP. 617 both these chapels were in use at the same time, either before or after the dissolution, cannot be ascertained; but that in Baxtergate was used above 100 years ago, as a chapel of ease, for the convenience of the inhabi- tants, especially the aged and infirm; and it continued in use till the erection of the present chapel.* In 1776, many respectable parishioners, consi- dering the great disadvantage of having no commodi- ous parochial chapel in the town, issued proposals for building a new chapel by subscription ; and the un- dertaking met with so much encouragement, that the chapel was erected within two years, and was opened for public worship in October, 1778. This chapel stands near the middle of Baxtergate, on the north side, in a place where there was church land before the year 1600. f It is a handsome brick building, hav- ing a short spire over the front, containing a bell. The inside is well finished, with an elegant pulpit at the north end, and a good organ, procured about 6 years ago, in the gallery opposite. Since the erection partly formed with the old oak pews, the pannelled backs of which may still be seen in several places Perhaps the adjoining area, the present market-place, may have been used as a market-place before the dissolution. See p. 572, 573. * Prayers were read here on monday, tuesday, and thursday mornings; there was also a sermon on thursday. The chapel was private property, and belonged for many years to a Mr. Pearson, who received <£8 rent annually. To pay this rent, and give a compensa- tion to the curate of the church for his services here, the burgesses imposed a rate on the inhabitants called chapel cess. f See p. 482. The chapel belongs to 30 proprietors, each of whom paid of 64 to the building, so that it cost about of2000. They have the privilege (by the archbishop’s license) of choosing their own minister, and managing the concerns of the chapel, saving the rights of the parish church A free pew was reserved to each proprietor; the remaining pews are let, to raise the minister’s salary, and defray other charges. 4 K G1S HISTORY OF THE TOWN. of this chape], there has been divine service here on the Lord’s day, as well as on week days. The fol- lowing is a list of the ministers of the chapel, trom its eiCCtlOn. Entered into office. Thos Eglin, (minister of the church.) 1778. Tlios. Homcastle Marshall, curate under him, now vicar } ,« Q1 of Pontefract j ‘ ' .Tos. Robertson, ditto, now perpetual curate of Sleights 1802. Thos. Ireland, 1812. Daniel Jones, ... Ihl3. Jas. Thos. Holloway, A M. present minister 1813. The society of friends, commonly called quakers, is of long standing in Whitby, having commenced in 1654, under the ministry of the celebrated George Fox, the father of the body. The persecutions en- dured by that remarkable man, who was imprisoned above 12 months in Scarborough castle, in 1665 and 1666, and the patience with which he bore his suffer- ings, must have contributed to give publicity and popularity to his principles, in this quarter.* His followers at Whitby, who sometimes met at East-Row r , soon became numerous; but, owing to the troubles of that period, they had no regular place of worship till September, 1676, when their meeting-house in Church street, near the east end of Bridge street, was opened. This meeting-house was rebuilt and enlarged, on a neat and commodious plan, in 1813. The society, though respectable, was much more numerous in for- mer times ; the grow th of luxury being hostile to that primitive simplicity which their principles require. Mr. Geo. Sanders is at present the only acknowledged, minister , or stated speaker, in the society. Their * See Hinderwell’s Hist, of Scarborough, 8vo. p. 93, 94. PLACES OF WOES F1IP. 619 burying-ground is at the west end of Bagdale; it was set apart for that use in 1653. No sculptured monu- ments decorate the enclosure, hut the green grass waves undisturbed over the silent inhabitants, and a few fir trees planted in front, add solemnity to this lonely repository of the dead. The old presbyterian congregation was established in 1695. Their first place of worship was in Bridge street, near where the premises of Mr. P. Elder now stand. About the year 1704, they removed to Staith- side, where they had for their meeting-house a house belonging to a Mrs. Grange, widow of Roger Grange ; situated near the house now occupied by Mrs. Ann Harrison. In 1715, Mr. Reddid, then minister of the congregation, purchased some houses at the foot of Flowergate, formerly belonging to a Mr. Isaac New- ton ; and a chapel was erected here which has been occupied by the congregation ever since. It was re- built 5 years ago, on a reduced, but improved plan. The congregation, which is small yet respectable, is much indebted to a Mr. Leonard Wilde, a sailmaker, who died in 1732. He not only paid off a heavy mortgage on the chapel, but left a sum of money which was laid out in purchasing a farm at Stepney on Up- gang lane, for the support of the minister.* The ministers of this congregation have been as follows: Began to officiate. Brookes 1695. Worthington, removed to Durham 1699. * The original trustees for Mr. Wilde’s benefaction were: Messrs. Jos. Holt, Mat. Storme, Jas. Weir, and Benj. Brignell. The rent of the farm for many years did not exceed o£24; but within the last 40 years it has been nearly quadrupled; the present tenant, Mr. John Gail paying 90 guineas. 4 K 2 62$ HISTORY OF THE TOWN. Began to officiate. Duckingfie'd, afterwards of the church of England 1702. Thompson, removed to Nottingham 1704. John Reddid 1715. Isaac Barker 1729. William Lee removed to Sunderlaud 17.56. William Wcod, M. D 1764. Thomas Watson, present minister 1769. The new preshyterian or associate congregation, though not next in the order of time, may be placed next, as coming under the same denomination. The two congregations, however, are not of the same com- munion : both have hitherto received their ministers from Scotland, and both profess, or have professed, their adherence to the doctrine and government of the church of Scotland; but the one is, or has been, con- nected with the established church of Scotland, while the other belongs to the associate sym d, who adhere to the doctrine, and worship of the Scotch church, as received in its purest times.* The associate congregation commenced in 1789. They occupied a large room beside the New way, and afterwards another in Brewster lane, as temporary p’aces of worship, till May, 1790, when their present commodious chapel in Cliff lane was opened. Their ministers have been as follows . Began to officiate. Thomas Craig, removed to Leeds, in 1793 1789. Peter Thompson, removed also to Leeds, in 1804 1799. George Young, present minister 1806. N. B. The vacant intervals were filled up by occasional supplies. * The old preshyterian congregations in England were princi- pally founded by the ejected ministers, or their disciples. Of late years, several of them have joined the independents: and most of those which retain their original name, at least in the south and middle parts of England, have laid aside the use of lay elders, from whence the name preshyterian is derived ; and, having generally adopted senti- ments akin to those of Dr. Priestly, are often distinguished by the name Unitarian. PLACES OF WORSHIP. 621 In 1816, Mrs. Joanna Kirkwood left £100 to the minister, elders, and trus;ees of the chapel, the inte- rest to be annually distributed among poor persons in this congregation. The methodist society began about the year 1750. They had a temporary meeting-house near Boulby bank, at the top of Capleman’s yard, and another at the New way ; and in 1764, when their number had considerably increased, they erected an octagonal cha- pel at the further end of Henrietta street. In 1788, owing to the shock sustained by that street,* as well as to the increase of the society, a new and larger chapel was erected on the east side of Church street, not far from the Church-stair-foot. This chapel is still in use; and, in 1814, on account of the flourishing state of the society, an additional chapel was erected, which is a large and elegant stone building, situated between Scale lane and Baxtergate, with an entrance from both streets.— -As the regular preachers in this society are changed every two years, no list of them can be expected; and the local preachers are too nu- merous, and too often varied, to be particularized. The present regular preachers are Messrs. George Smith and Benjamin Hudson. The independent congregation was established in 1770. Their chapel which is in Silver street, was erected by the late Mr. Brownfield : it was rebuilt and enlarged in 1805, on an improved plan, with a hand- * In describing this shock in p 491, 492, I have mentioned 196 families, as the number deprived of their habitations, being misled by the exaggerated account which the late Mr. Gibson inserted in the Town and Couutry Magazine : the real number was vastly inferior. 622 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. some stone front. The congregation lias had two ministers: viz. Began to officiate. James Brownfield, formerly a metliodist 177 - j . John Arundel, present minister 18t'3. The catholics, though they appear to have existed in this neighbourhood ever since the reformation, had no congregation in Whitby till the 3 ear 1 ? 91, when the influx of French emigrant priests enabled them to increase the number or their congregations. They began, in Nov. 1794, to occupy as a place of worship a large room in the house of Mr. 11. Bennison, in Bax- tergate; where they continued to meet lor divine ser- vice till April, 1805, when their present handsome chapel in Bagdale, near the foot of Scale lane, was opened. The chapel, which is furnished with an organ, is built of stone, as is also the adjoining dwelling-house, appropriated to the minister. The list of ministers is as follows : Began to officiate. J 11 Fran, Richenet, French emigrant, since missionary in China 1794. John Peter Gamiel Gondouin, ditto 1800. Nicholas Gilbert, ditto, now at St. Maloes in France 1803. George Leo H Sty dock, formerly minister of Uglhorpe l»16. It will be seen from the above enumeration, that the increase and enlargement of the places of worship, have borne some proportion to the increase of our population. After all, they would not be sufficient for the town and its vicinity, were the inhabitants in general to attend divine service; but there ate too many in Whitby, as in other towns, who seldom or never attend public worship, in any form. Such are usually placed to the account of the established church, but it is more correct to view them as a species of heathens, belonging to no church whatever. PLACES OF WORSHIP. 623 That the state of the different churches, or reli- gious societies, in Whitby, may be viewed more distinctly, the following table has been drawn up, exhibiting the number which each place of worship may accommodate, the number oi members, and the hours of service. Places. Lord's day services Weekly services. Num. Mem. Morn. Aft. Ev. accom. Parish church \ p K) 3 Wed. &Frd. mil. 16007 Chapel of ease \ p. 10 6 W ed. ev. 800 j Friends’ meetinghouse 10 3 Wed. morn. 500 55 Old Presbj terian chapel \ p. 10 § p 2 6 200 2 ) TNew do or Assoc, eoug § p. 10 2 6 Tuesd. ev. 450 86 Methodist old chapel ... £ p 10 5 Mond. ev. 8007 c . , . Ditto new do. ... 2 6 Thurs. ev. 1200 j 1 Independent chapel ... f p. 10 £p .2 6 Tuesd. ev. 700 85 Catholic chapel 10 2 6 300 184 It is proper to remark, that the number of com- municants, or members, is no just criterion tor ascer- taining the number of stated worshippers. The average number usually attending each place may be stated at about three fourths of the number that may be accom- modated ; being in some instances more, and in some less.* The two methodist chapels, however, are not to be regarded as containing two distinct congrega- tions, as there is not divine service in both at the. same hours: and it must also be observed, that many who go to church in the morning, attend other places of worship in the evening. On the whole, the aggregate number of worshippers, attending divine service on any one sabbath, can scarcely be stated at more than 4000, and will seldom exceed 5000. f * It is considerably less than that proportion in the Friends’ meeting-house; which is so planned, that the place appropriated to the worshippers may be enlarged or contracted according to circum- stances — Each place of worship, when crowded, will hold more than the number which it is stated to accommodate, f At the same time, 624 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The different denominations of Christians in Whitby generally live together in harmony, and unite their exertions in works of religion and benevolence. Controversies of no smali importance have indeed been agitated, and jealousies sometimes appear; yet, on the whole, there are few places where Christian liberality and forbearance are more exercised. Almost all par- ties are combined in forwarding those benevolent in- stitutions which do honour to Whitby, and which now claim cur attention. The benevolent institutions supported in Whit- by, may be distinguished into two classes, those which provide for the bodily wants of the poor, and those which aim at their moral and spiritual improvement. For the sake of distinction, the former may be termed charitable, the latter pious. 1 begin with the charitable institutions, as they are the most ancient. In this list the workhouse, which has already been considered, cannot be in- cluded; for it is not a voluntary establishment, but is supported by law. But there is another institution, which though now legally established, must not be omitted, as it owed its origin to voluntary contribu- tions, which were its only support for many years ; — I mean the seamen’s hospital. This institution com- menced January 1st, J67f, when it was called “a new year’s gift to the distressed seamen, and to the relief of their widows, and the education of their children, it ought to be remarked, that many, especially servants, attend in rotation, not being able to come constantly. Hence, in respect of such, there is a succession of hearers on different sabbaths, and even on the same sabbath in different parts of the day. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 625 in the town of Whitby.” It was founded by the bur- gesses, together with the masters and owners of ships; who agreed on a voluntary rate of Is. for each vessel above 20 tons burden, for every voyage past Whitby; with 6d. for the master, and 2d. for each sailor re- ceiving 20s. wages, or upward. Four respectable persons were annually appointed as collectors, and in a few years the funds were found sufficient for the erection of hospital-houses, as well as tor pecuniary relief to the distressed.* The charity continued to flourish till Feb. 4. 1748, when, owing to the unequal payment of the rate, and an act of parliament then recently passed, providing for the same objects, f the bulk of the contributors withdrew. Others, however, persevered till Jan. 17th, 1756, when the charity, as such, finally closed ; after having distributed about £4459, and erected 42 hospital-houses. These houses, or rooms, form a kind of square on the east side of Church street; they afford a comfortable asylum to 42 * The first collectors were. Geo. Meggison, Hen. Sneaton, Wm. Linskill, and Jn. Readman. The amount for the year 1676 was o£36 2d. ; but it was much greater in some succeeding years. Some hos- pital-houses were built prior to 1684 : their number was gradually in- creased, and several of them were built, or purchased, just before the close of the charity. One item of the expenditure was for the education of seamen’s children. — The record that concludes the original institu- tion, in 1756, is signed by Wm. Chapman, John Mellar, Hen. Clarke, Thos. Boulby, junr. and John Kildill. f Passed 20. Geo. 2: entitled, “ An act for the relief and support of maimed and disabled seamen, and the widows and children of such as shall be killed, slain, or drowned in the merchants service ” 1 he trustees for the Whitby branch of this establishment are elected by the ship-owners and masters. An attempt was once made to get the Whitby funds thrown into the general fund; but, through the opposition of some Whitby gentlemen, this scheme, which would have been very hurtful to our seamen, was relinquished. The money distributed is called muster-roll. 4 L 626 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. seamen’s widows, besides children. Since the close of the first institution, this hospital has been under the management of the trustees annually chosen for car- rying into effect the act above mentioned. The trustees, 15 in number, hold their meetings in a com- mittee-room, called the seamen's house , adjoining to the hospital : they distribute about £300 yearly, to disabled seamen, and to the widows and children of such as have lost their lives in the merchants service To this institution the late Wm. Skinner, Esq. left by his will, dated Oct. 5. 1798, £100, to be distributed under the direction of the trustees.* The next charitable institution, in the order of time, is the dispensary, begun in 1786. It was at first held at the corner of Haggersgate, but is now kept in a yard in Church street, nearly opposite the end of Bridge street; where advice and medicines are furnished, at appointed hours, to such poor persons as have tickets from subscribers. The sick are also attended by the surgeon at their own houses. The physician. Dr. Campbell, gives his attendance gratis. The business is managed by a treasurer, and a com- mittee of 15. Mr. H. Chilton is the present treasurer, the expenditure for last year amounted to £64 18s. 7d. the patients were 286. At the commencement of the institution, the funds were larger, being increased by public collections ; and the relief given was therefore * By a document preserved in the Seamen’s house it appears that, in 1688, the masters and mariners of Whitby, being often in Shields harbour, built a gallery for themselves in S. Shields church, which was long after called the Whitby gallery. This gallery was appropriated to another use several years ago. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 627 wore extensive. — The following benefactions have re- cently assisted this nseful institution : 1813. Donation of £ I GO stock, 5 per cents, by Mr. T. Pierson. Legacy of <£25, left by Mr. T Chilton. 1815. Ditto £20, by Mr. Jos Holt. Ditto £100 stock, 4 per cents by Mrs. Eliz. Skinner. Th e female charity was established in 1808, for relieving married women, at the. time of their lying-in. This institution disburses annually above £50, yield- ing relief to from 50 to 60 poor females. The present office-bearers are : Mrs. G. Sanders, treasurer; Mrs. T. Chilton, secretary ; Mrs. Ellerby, keeper of the linen ; Miss Richardson, Miss Holt, Miss Marg. Hunter, and Miss M. Holt, visitors ; and a committee of 12 other ladies. The late Mr. T. Chilton left this charity £25. The charity for clothing the aged female poor commenced in the end of 1814. The funds produce about £30 annually, by which, through the economical management of the ladies who make the clothes them- selves, about 180 aged women are supplied in the win- ter with useful articles of clothing. The institution has not yet assumed the form of a society, with stated office-bearers, but is principally conducted by the same worthy ladies who manage the female charity and the Lancasterian school for girls. Among the charitable institutions may be placed the clubs or benefit societies, of which there are several in Whitby. No where are they more needful than in a seaport town, aud some of our clubs, as the marine society, the union society , the mariners’ society, &c. are chiefly designed for the relief of seamen and sea- men’s widows. — To these may be added the masonic 4 l 2 628 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. society , which serves the purpose of a benefit society to all who are free-masons. Thos. Brodrick, Esq. is the present worshipful master. The lodge is held at the Angel inn : above 100 brethren belong to it.* Whether the union-mill society belongs to the list of charitable institutions, may admit of some doubt, for though at its commencement in the year 1800, it was set on foot by liberal benefactions, including a legacy of £100 left by Mrs. Hancock, yet it is more properly a trading company than a charity ; each of the members, whose number amounts to about 900, enjoying a share in the profits of the concern, by ob- taining flour at a reduced price. The wind-mill and premises belonging to this society form a conspicuous object on the west s'de of Whitby. For 14 years, the business was conducted by Mr. John Watson, presi- dent, and a committee annually renewed, composed of gentlemen who had taken an active part in founding the society, with other benevolent characters, under whose skilful and faithful management, all the heavy debts contracted at the erection of the mill were paid otf, and the institution, freed of all incumbrance, was brought to y ield a substantial benefit to the members. At the beginning of 1815, a revolution took place in tbe society, attended with circumstances over which the historian would wish to throw a veil. Suffice it to remark, that the treatment which Mr. Watson and * U was constituted in 1797, and is called the Lion lodge; No. 583. There was a former lodge called the Britannia lodge (No. 423), constituted in 1772, and held at the Plough in Church street. — There is also in Whitby, as in many other places, a club of Odd fellows, which, like the society of free-masons, is intended for charity as well as conviviality. This club consists of 99 members, a very odd number. CHA R1 TABLE INS T1 TUT JONS. 629 others received, after long, arduous, and disinterested labours, illustrates a well known truth, that he who serves the public, must serve it from a sense of duty, rather than from the hope of gratitude. In both its periods, the mill seems to have answered its principal design, of furnishing good and cheap flour for the use of a great part of the inhabitants of Whitby.* After all, the principle of such monopolizing associations, however well meant, can scarcely be commended : there seems to be no good reason for conducting the business of miller, or flour-dealer, on this plan, rather than any other business; and were the principle ex- tended to other departments, so as to produce union bakehouses, brevvhouses, shoe-shops, tailor-shops, gro- cer-shops, &c. as well as union mills and flour shops, trade would be involved in inexpressible confusion. Besides supporting so many permanent charities, the people of Whitby are ever ready to furnish occa- sional supplies for relieving the distressed. In hard winters, the wealthy and benevolent have raised large funds for assisting the industrious poor. The sub- scription for the present season exceeded £1300. In 1815, when 29 fishermen of Runswick and Staiths were lost in a storm, a liberal subscription was made for their families, which being added to the collections obtained in the vicinity, the large contributions re- ceived from Yoik, Newcastle, and many other towns, and the generous benefactions of several noblemen and gen tlemen in various parts, produced more than £1 500. * The society has been very unfortunate in its rules, the original rules being in some parts defective, and liable to abuse, while those bow acted upon are partly tyrannical and partly puerile. 630 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The institutions which 1 have denominated pious, or religious, are all of recent formation, yet they are numerous and respectable. Among' these the Sunday schools take the lead. The order in which these useful institutions were formed, and the number of teachers and scholars in each, may be thus stated. When established. No. of teachers. No. of scholars. 1306. Silver street Sunday school .... 22 100 1809. Cliff lane ditto .... 28 100 Ibl 4. Methodist ditto .... 30 220 18 1 5. Church ditto .... 4 260 1814 Silver street female adult school 10 20 N. B. A.! 1 the teachers serve gratuitously, except those of the cliur h Sunday school, and the latter are assisted by gratuitous visitors, :: ■ the teachers of the other Sunday schools, attend by turns. Th e Lancasterian or public schools next demand our notice. — 1l he public school for boys was established in 1810. Its yearly revenues amount to about £130, and it now contains 260 boys. The school room is in Church street. The funds of the school have been aided by a benefaction of £50 from the late Mr. T. Chilton, who took a most active part in its formation ; and a benefaction of £20 from the late Mr. \V. Merry, another of its friends. The present officers of the so- ciety are: Rich. Moorsom and Chr. Richardson, Esqrs. presidents; G. Sanders, H. Chilton, J. Holt, jun. and R. Campion, Esqrs. vice-presidents; T. Pierson, Esq. treasurer; Messrs. W. Langborne and J. Watson, secretaries; and a committee of 18 other gentlemen : Mr. R Groves is teacher. — The Lancasterian school for girls was formed in 1814; but though its forma- tion is recent, its progress has been rapid ; owing to PIOUS INSTITUTIONS. 631 the unwearied attention of the ladies by whom it was established and is supported. The school-room is on the Crag. The girls, whose number exceeds 3 SO, are taught not only reading, writing, and cyphering, but sewing, knitting, and spinning. The institution is conducted by a treasurer, Mrs. J. Holt ; two secretaries, Mrs. Smales and Miss Holt; and a committee of 12 ladies; besides several other ladies, who attend with great punctuality as visitors, to assist the teacher, M Eliza Blackburn. The gross receipts of the suck for last year exceeded £120. — At this school, and at the school tor boys, the religious improvement oi the children is always kept in view, and both boys ai d girls are required to attend some place of public w or- ship every Lord’s day. The bible institutions follow the public school*, with which they have a natural connexion. — Tie Whitby Auxiliary Bible Society was instituted i> IS 12. It sends annually £100, or upwards, to the BOtish and Foreign Bible Society, besides a larger sum for the purchase of bibles and testaments, to supply the vicinity. In the course of last year, 558 bibles and 230 testaments were issued from the depository; most of which went to supply the kindred institutions that have arisen out of this society. These institutions are, the Whitby Bible Association, and the Sandsend and Lyth Bible Association, both formed in 1813; the Pickering Branch Bible Society , begun in 1815; and the Whitby Marine Bible Association, begun in 1816.* * The officers of the Whitby Auxiliary Bible Society are; H. W. Yeoman, Esq. patron; the rev. James Andrew, president; R. 632 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The Whitby Religious Tract Society, was formed in 1813. It raises about £80 annually, has remitted in all near £100 to the parent society in London, and purchased about 70,000 tracts for local distribution. Its officers are ; the rev. J. T. Holloway, M. A. pre- sident; R. Campion, Esq. vice-president ; Chr. Rich- ardson, Esq. treasurer; John Holt, jun. and the rev. Geo. Young-, secretaries; Mr. Geo. Clark, depositary; and a committee of 13. To these pious institutions we may add the mis - sionary societies, one of which, intended to aid the methodist missions, was begun in 1815; and produces about £80 annually. The rest, four in number, are all auxiliaries to the London missionary society : three were formed in 1813, viz. a female society, f and a juvenile society, which meet at Silver street chapel; and another female society , which meets in Cliff lane cha- pel: the fourth is a juvenile society, recently formed in the latter place. Their united efforts may raise yearly about £80. Campion, G. Sanders, J. Benson, and T. Peirson, Esqrs. vice pre- sidents ; Jon. Sanders, Esq. treasurer ; Mr. G. Clark, depositary; the rev. Jn. Arundel and Geo. Young, secretaries; and a committee of 14 other gentlemen. The officers of the Whitby Association are; Mr. Jon. Hall, treasurer; Mr. Geo. Watson, secretary; and a com- mittee of 18: those of Sandsend and lyth Association ; Mr. Alex. Reid, treasurer; Mr. Jas. Hill, secretary ; and a committee of 12 : those of the Pickering Branch Society ; Mr. Wm Birdsall, treasurer; the rev. Gabriel Croft, secretary; and a committee of 12: those of the Whitby Marine Bible Association ; Rob. Campion. Esq. president and treasurer; Mr. Wm. Scoresby, jun. and Mr. Robt. Wilson, secre- taries ; and a committee of 12. To the funds of this association, Mr. Wm. Scoresby, senr. gave a donation of 50 guineas. — A Branch Bible Society for Fi/lingdales was formed in 1812, but was discontinued two years alter, to make way for a school society 7 . f This was at first an auxiliary to the Jewish society. PIOUS INSTITUTIONS, 633 As the religious societies here enumerated are all of recent date, their happy fruits, though already con- spicuous, cannot as yet be fully matured ; particularly in regard to the moral improvement of youth ; but their progress, however gradual, is sure and steady, and willlead to the most substantial andlasting benefits. There are some who stand aloof from those pious es- tablishments, and limit their benevolence to objects merely charitable ; yet, whatever claims the latter may possess, the former should be regarded as of a nobler order, since they aim not only at the good of society, and the present welfare of mankind, but the deliver- ance and final felicity of the soul. The bread that feeds the hungry is "meat that perisheth;” the gar- ments which cover the naked will soon wear away ; but a soul emancipated from ignorance and vice, and raised to the enjoyment of the Deity, will remain an impe- rishable monument, both of divine goodness and of human benevolence. While mind is superior to matter, while heaven is higher than the earth, while spiritual joys exceed sensual pleasures, while eternity surpasses time, — never let institutions merely charitable be pre- ferred to such as are religious. It is pleasing to observe, that, in promoting both objects, the ladies of Whitby take a most active part. Their unceasing philanthropy, their glowing zeal, their persevering labours of love, deserve more than a transient notice. It is in the walks of mercy that those fine feelings, that genuine sensibility, that Christian tenderness, which are the loveliest ornaments of the 4 M 634 HISTORY Of THE TOWN. female character, may be seen in all their beauty and sweetness. Let pretenders to fine feeling droop, like sensitive plants, over the imaginary sorrows of a play or a novel, while they turn away in disgust from the sight of real misery ; the true daughters of mercy visit the abodes of poverty, bring relief to the wretched, cheer the bed of affliction ; and seek not only the pre- sent comfort, but the eternal welfare of the objects of their sympathy. By such practical benevolence may the fair inhabitants of our town ever be distinguished. The manners of the people of Whitby are com- paratively simple, though much of the simplicity of former times has been lost through the increase of wealth and luxury. On the state of manners in this place, about a century ago, the following extracts from the papers of Mr. Wm. Chapman, so often quoted, furnish some interesting information. Reuben Linskill, Gideon Meggison, Tlios. 1. inskill, Jos. and Rob. Linskill, J. Walker, John Longstaff, Henry Simpson, Thos. Ward, and many others, who died before the year 1726, or soon after, were men remarkable for their public spirit, hospitality, plainness and sim- plicity of manners. Their wives were neatly dressed, wearing black silk scarfs, which came over their shoulders and 6tted close to their waists, and fastened before. It was a neat, becoming dress: but many of the very old women, of good families, were dressed pretty much in the style of the better sort of French peasants, having their shift sleeves turned up over their gowns, half-way up to their elbows; and wearing a profusion of head-dress, with long pinners, sometimes pinned up, and sometimes loose streaming with the wind. The old men wore wide- kneed breeches, like short trowsers, so wide that in standing they hung double below the welt or knee- band. They were displeased at their sons for wearing short strait breeches, and thought it a very indecent fashion. — The late duchess of Buckingham, when in the north, always visited at Reuben Linskill’s, and no where else in that part. I have seen her on these visits to my relation. — Tea was very little used in these times, most of the old men being much against it; but, after the decease of the old people, it soon came into general use. The time of dining was a quarter past twelve, and that of visiting at two in the MANNERS. <335 afternoon, when the women always took their needlework with them, and returned home between five and six. Few families had more than one maid-servant, and none kept a man-servant. Their mistress was called by them dame, and by others by their proper names, as Esther Walker, Hannah Linskill, & c. The wages of a maid-servant were 30s. pr. year, and 35s. was reckoned extravagant. The inhabitants were then, as now, remarkable for cleanliness and hospitality. Until after the year 1730, they had not one milliner in the town, only two apothecaries, two attorneys, and not a resident physician till 1772.* 1 remember but one law-suit. The inhabitants of Whitby are still remarkable for cleanliness, especially in what regards domestic economy. Every week, usually on friday, the furniture, floors, carpets, &c. undergo a general purgation : and every year, commonly in spring, a universal lustration takes place, when every article in the house is shifted, every corner searched, and every crevice where dust may have taken refuge explored and purified. During this process, while all things are turned upside down, the male part of the family are glad to get out of the way ; and the man of business, or of letters, may think himself well off, if his books and papers are not thrown into the wildest confusion. The ancient simplicity of manners is not yet ex- tinct : several wealthy families and individuals still keep up the early meals, the plain diet, and the homely dress, of former times. Gentlemen of the first respect- ability attend the markets, to buy flesh, fish, fowls, &c. and not unfrequently carry home with their own hands some of the articles purchased. But a rapid change is taking place, and luxury is advancing with hasty steps. Several gentlemen have their livery servants : as yet there are only four who keep their own carri- age ; but a few years ago there was not one. This date is perhaps erroneous : Dr. Wood resided here in 1764 . Seep. 620 . 4 M 2 636 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. The amusements and entertainments of Whitby exhibit no peculiar features. Social visits are very frequent, especially in winter; and as the principal families are much connected by intermarriages, it is not uncommon to see large parties, to the number of 30 or 40, at evening entertainments. As such parties are too numerous for carrying on conversation, the evening is spent in various amusements, among which cards, those notorious time-killers, generally hold a conspicuous place. True social pleasure is best en- joyed in smaller circles. The first theatre in Whitby w'as in the Paddock, on the west side of Cliff’ lane, adjoining to the house of Mr. Hunter, to whom it belonged. It was built about the year 1763, and was used as a theatre till 1784, when the present large theatre in Scate lane was erected ; after which, the old building became the nialt-kiln of Mr. Jn. Ellerby, as it now is. The pre- sent theatre belongs to a number of subscribers. It is used every second winter; the performers being employed at other towns in the interval. Sometimes the house, which will seat about 500, is well filled : at other times the performers complain of want of encou- ragement; but whether this is owing to an increasing taste for better pleasures, or to other causes, I will not determine . — Balls and assemblies are not so fre- quent jn Whitby as in some other places. The as- sembly-room is private property, being a part of the Angel inn : it is often used for the public meetings of religious institutions. s TA TE OF L EA UN TNG ■ 637 While simplicity of manners 1ms declined in Whitby, learning has much increased. In former times, education was confined within narrow limits, few had any classical learning; there was neither au- thor, nor printer. One of the earliest writers belong- ing to Whitby was Sam. Jones, gent, who published some poems about 100 years ago. His writings are much commended, but no copy of them can at present be found in Whitby.* The first printing-press in Whitby was set up by Mr. Chas. Plummer, about the year 1770, in the west Bridge-end ; where hand-bills and tracts were printed. f There was no bookseller in Whitby, who lived by that business only, till 1773, when Mr. G. Clark (now of the firm of Clark & Medd) commenced in that line. The publication of Mr. Charlton’s History of Whitby, in 1779, was greatly subservient to the in- terests of literature, by awakening the attention of the people of Wbitby to the history and antiquities of the town and neighbourhood, by exploding fables long * In the Addenda to Gent’s History of Hull, there is a letter from Wnitby written in 1734, which begins thus : “ If you have lei- sure to consult the writings of Mr. Samuel Jones, author of Whitby, a Poem, &c. you might find several things, through the flowing pen of that ingenious gentleman, who has often employed himself upon the most exalted subjects He has shewn the virtues and nature of the waters, the wholesomeness of the air, and the beauty of the piers ; af- fording the sweetest view to the ocean, which abounds with the finest fish.” This Mr. Jones lived in Grape lane from the year 1712 to 1718. His principal work is “Whitby, a Poem; occasioned by Mr. Andrew Long’s recovery from jaundice by drinking of Whitby spaw waters. By Sami Jones, gent, 1718. 8vo.” See Gough’s Topo- graphy, II. p. 449. Mr. Andrew Long was a salt-officer: he lived jn Church-street, f Mr. Plummer was a draper, as well as a printer. — There was a printing-press set up in Scarborough, in 1734, by Mr, Gent. See his History of Hull, p. 185. Note. 638 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. received, and bringing to light important facts that had remained in obscurity. Some who were pupils to Mr. Charlton, have contributed much to the advance- ment of learning in their native town; particularly the late Fras. Gibson, Esq. F. A. S. and the late Mr. Wm. Watkins. The latter published in 178i, a series of periodical essays, or literary papers, called the whitby spy, in imitation of the Spectator; and in 1797 and 1798, another series entitled anomalle.* Several respectable works have lately been printed at Whitby, where there are now two printing-offices, in good employment. f The growth of learning has been much favoured by the increase and improvement of schools, in the town and neighbourhood.^ The children of the wealthy receive for the most part a liberal education. Classical learning is not rare ; and the fine arts, music and drawing, are not neglected. — The increased num- ber of gentlemen in the learned professions hasalso aided the cause of science; || and our literary institutions, though noi numerous, have had the same tendency. The Whitby Subscription Library , begun in 1775, is the most ancient literary establishment. The library rooms are in Haggersgale : the rev. Thos. Watson is treasurer ; Mr. G. Clark, librarian. The library now * A more particular account of these gentlemen, and of their writings, will be given in the next Book, under the article biography. t According to the census for 1816, W hitby contains 13 printers, booksellers, and bookbinders, including apprentices. § Whitby con- tains 15 schoolmasters, and a greater number of female teachers. The classical school of the longest standing is that of Mr John Routli, who has taught part of three generations. |] T here are now in Whitby, 9 ministers; 13 medical gentlemen, including 3 assistants; and 5 attor- neys, besides 10 clerks or assistants. STATE OF LEARNING. 639 contains about 4700 volumes, comprising 1 a number of excellent works in almost all departments of lite- rature. — Several gentlemen in Whitby have very respectable private libraries.* — The following con- gregational libraries may also be noticed here, though they partake of the nature of religious institutions. Theological Library, Cliff lane chapel, instil. 1802, coutng. 240 vols. Dissenters’ Library, Silver street ditto 1807, 380 Methodist Library, 1812, 130 The News-room , in Haggersgate, built by sub- scription in 1814, seems to claim our notice here; for, though chiefly designed for commercial purposes, it serves to disseminate useful knowledge. The building is neat and commodious. Mr. Rob. Preston is sect etary. The Botanic Garden, which commenced in 1812, is more properly a literary establishment. It occu- pies a part of the New Gardens * on the east side of Green lane. The collection of plants is not inconsi- derable, though ; the institution is yet in its infancy, * The best which I have seen are those cf R. Moorsoin, jun. Esq. and Mr Wm. Scoresby, jun. f In the name New Gardens we have an instance, among many, of the impropriety of designating any place by the term new. These gardens are now 165 years old, as appears from the following inscription on a stone originally built in the wall, and intended to be replaced in the new wall, recently erected by the present proprietor, Edward Chapman, Esq. I S? Hvgh Cholmeley Kt & Barronet & Elizabeth my deare wife (davghter to Sr Will: Twisden of Great Peckham IN Y e . COYNTY OF KENT Kt & BaRRONET) BVILT THIS WALL & PLANTED THIS ORCH- ARD Anno Domini 1652. Under these lines is a shield bearing the arms of both families empaled, with the word cholmeley near the Cholmeley arms on the dexter side, and the word twisden near the Twisden arms on the sinister side. Beneath the shield are these two lines : Our handy worke like to y e _ frutefull tree Blesse thou O Lord, let it not blasted bee. 640 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. and would require to be more generally patronised. The business is conducted by H. Simpson, Esq., trea- surer, rev. Geo. Young, secretary, and a committee of 7 other gentlemen: Mr. Alex. Wiilison is curator. Several gentlemen in Whitby take a pleasure in the study of botany. The best collection of dred plants that has been formed here is that of Mr. Wm. Hunter. The progress of religion and morality in V\ huby scarcely keeps pace with that of learning; for, although our religious institutions have rapidly increased, and hold out cheering prospects of amelioration, a consi- derable time must elapse before their effects can be fully realized. The general character of the people of Whitby is not inferior to that of the inhabitants of other seaports on the coast ; and upon the whole it is sensibly improving; yet candour will admit that there is much room for further improvement. This will be best illustrated by producing a few facts, which are here brought forward, not to indulge a censorious spirit, but in the hope of promoting reformation. The great number of those who neglect public worship has already been noticed; and I now observe with regret, that there are multitudes who pay no respect to the Lord’s day ; but, in defiance of the com- mands of Heaven, and the laws of our country, spend it as a day of business, of feasting, or of amusement. When we see children and young men playing at games, without interruption, in the streets, in the fields, or on the shore ; crowds of persons of various ages roaming about in public places with every ap- pearance of mirth and levity, if not of riot; and stalls STATE OF MORALS. 641 set un here and there for the sale of fruit and sweet- L meats, we are reminded of a fair-day rather than of a day of devotion. Some, indeed, may allege, that my sentiments on this subject are rigid, and that to re- quire the strict observance of the sabbath is to call for a discipline severe and gloomy; but the reader who is thus minded would do well to inquire, whether in view- ing devotion as austerity, he does not betray a con- tempt for the divine authority, and a want of relish for the pleasures of piety. I cannot forget a remark of Hume the infidel concerning the parliament of Charles I; “They enacted laws for the strict observance of Sunday, which the puritans affected to call the sabbath, and which they sanctified with the most melancholy indolence.” Now, what was this melancholy indolence with which they sanctified the sabbath ? Did they spend it in loitering on their beds ; in lounging about the fields, the streets, or the coffee-houses ; or in gorman- dizing and beastly sottishness? No: they employed it in devotion : and this, in Hume’s account, was me- lancholy indolence ! Strange ! that a human being should apply such language to the worship of the Creator! Melancholy indolence? — to elevate the soul towards the grand Source of joy, and Centre of energy. Melancholy indolence? — to withdraw from a bustling and wretched world, to converse with spiritual, celestial, and eternal things. Melancholy indolence? — to aspire at the employment of angels, and anticipate the bliss of heaven. Truly that mind must be in a melancholy state, where such perverse sentiments can dwell. Ingratitude to God is often accompanied with 4 N 642 HISTORY OF THE TOWN. unfaithfulness to man. Accordingly, numbers among the lower orders in Whitby discover a shameful pro- pensity to pilfering. This mean disposition particu- larly shews itself in plundering wrecks, where humanity might be expected to suppress selfishness. I have seen Whitby vomiting forth its inhabitants, by scores, if not by hundreds, to share in the spoils of a shipwreck, even on the Lord’s day. To the ascendancy of the same selfish spirit above the nobler principles of the mind, may be ascribed those habits of dissipation and improvidence, which prevail to a great extent, and which cause such a general resort to the pawnbrokers’ shops. These shops, which seem only accommodations for the profligate or the careless, are the wardrobes of numbers of poor wretches, who relieve their clothes on Saturday, to deposit them again on monday.* — The same spirit naturally produces an eagerness to receive parochial relief, as well as ingra- titude for relief bestowed. This statement, which applies to some of the peo- ple in Whitby, is not intended to wound the feelings of the inhabitants at large, but to excite the good part of the community to make increasing efforts for the moral improvement of their degraded neighbours. Education, especially religious instruction, must be employed to raise their character, to produce habits of industry, and integrity, and infuse a spirit of Christian independence. Religion elevates the soul above every thing mean and grovelling ; and those who have learned to feel like Christians, will live like men. * There are three pawnbrokers in Whitby. The remarks here made are not meant to convey any reflection on them, as individuals, but on the very system of pawnbroking. BOOK IV STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE VICINITY OF WHITBY, TO THE DISTANCE OF TWENTY-FIVE MILES. CHAP. I. Topographical Description. THE district here surveyed, of which the General History is given in the first Book, forms the eastern part of the North Riding of Yoi kshire. It is bounded by the German ocean on the ea9t and north, extending from near Cayton beyond Scarborough, to Cleveland Port at the mouth of the Tees: and, on the land side, it is bounded by a semicircular line, passing from Cleveland Port, by Stokesley, Bilsdale, Welburn, Ed- stone, and Yeddingham, to the coast near Cayton. In its civil divisions, it includes a large portion of the wapentake of Langbargh, or Cleveland, the whole of Whitby Strand, nearly the whole of Pickering-Lythe, and some part ofRydale: in its ecclesiastical divisions, it includes part of the deaneries of Cleveland, Rydale, and Dickering, in the archbishopric of York, and comprehends about 50 parishes or chapelries : and in its natural divisions, it includes part of the vale of Pickering on the south, and of the plain of Cleveland on the north, with the intervening moors, which are intersected by numerous fertile dales, and skirted to- wards the sea by a well cultivated border. The popu- 4 n 2 644 STATISTICAL SURVEY. lation of the whole district, including Whitby itself, may amount to 45,000. In reviewing the different parts of the district in detail, it will be proper to begin with the coast, or exterior margin : and here the town of Scarborough first demands our attention. Scarborough, according to the most correct ob- servations, is situated in 54° 1? ; 30" north latitude, and in 22 ' west longitude; being about 20 miles south- east of Whitby.* The town rises from the shore in the form of an amphitheatre, and terminates on the north-east in an ancient castle, whose lofty situation, and venerable towers and walls, contribute much to the grandeur of the place. The population of Scar- borough, including Walsgrave, or Palsgrave, is esti- mated at about 7500; being one fourth less than Whitby. It is more compact than Whitby, and per- haps stands on as much ground; for it is not hemmed in by cliffs, and the inhabitants provide themselves with large houses, to furnish lodgings for the crowds of respectable strangers who resort hither every sum- mer for the benefit of the sea-bathing and the mineral * The latitude, longitude, and relative position of the different places in the district, may be seen by inspecting the hap that accom- panies this work. This map lias been constructed with great care by the author and his coadjutor Mr. Bird, to whose pencil the work is in- debted for its embellishments. With the exception of a few places on the borders of the district, the whole has been laid down from actual survey; the latitude and longitude of some of the principal points being fixed by the observations of Col. Mudge. A few inaccuracies may perhaps be detected, yet it is more correct than any map of this part of Yorkshire hitherto published; the maps of Jeffrey, Tuke, &c. being grossly erroneous. The author's hearings for determining the position of Scarborough coincide with the observations of Mr. Rob. Knox of that place, who has surveyed the vicinity of Scarborough with great accuracy, for the construction of a map on a large scale. TOPOGRAPHY. 645 waters. As a place of fashionable resort during the bathing season, Scarborough is superior to any town in the north of England; an advantage which has added greatly to its riches, extent, and elegance. Scarborough is the only royal burgh in the dis- trict, having the privilege of sending two members to parliament. These members, however, are not chosen by th e freemen at large, but merely by the corpora- tion, which consists of 44 persons; viz. 2 baililfs, 2 coroners, 4 chamberlains, and a common council of 36, divided into 3 benches, each composed of 12. Neither have the freemen at large any vote in the election of these officers; for, though an annual elec- tion takes place, the members of the corporation for the expiring year have the sole right of appointing the members for the ensuing year.* — As a borough, this town is of great antiquity; having been incorporated by a charter from Hen. II, dated in 1 181. Yet it does not appear to have existed before the conquest, Walsgrave being then the only place of note in that quarter.f Scarborough is the only seaport in the district besides Whitby. Its harbour is much inferior to that * The mode of election is very complicated, but it amounts to this, that the members choose one another: and hence any 44 persons who are once in office may secure their seats in the corporation during life, merely by shifting places every year, in this respect, Scarborough is on the same tooling with a vast number of other royal burghs, in many of which the right of election is still more circumscribed. — The present members of parliament for Scarborough are: The Hon. Edm. Phipps, and the Rt Hon. Chas. Manners Sutton — The present bailiffs are: Joseph Thiilwall and Henry Cooke, Esqrs. — His grace the Duke of Rutlaud is recorder, and John Travis, Esq. deputy recorder and common clerk. Since 1690, Scarborough has given the title of earl to the noble family of Lumley. — The name Scarborough, anciently written Scardeburg, seems to signify rock-town; from scar or skar f a rock or precipice, and burgh, a city, f See p. $3, 646 STATISTICAL SURVEY. of Whitby, in extent, depth, and safety; there being no river or stream passing through it to wash out the accumulating sand, nor any recess into which the ships can retire so as to be completely sheltered from winds and waves : yet it possesses a double advantage over Whitby harbour, in being furnished with a light-house, and in having no bar at the entrance ; so that \ easels, not too large for the harbour, can find refuge here in a storm when they dare not attempt the port of Whitby. The piers are of great strength and extent; but can- not be compared to Whitby piers in point of beauty and convenience. Their antiquity, however, can be traced to a much earlier date ; a grant for the forma- tion of the port here with timber and stone, given by Henry 111, in 1252, being yet extant. — In regard to commerce, shipping, shipbuilding, and manufactures connected with shipbuilding, Scarborough falls greatly short of Whitby. About 130 vessels belong to the port; their aggregate burden amounts lo near 20,000 tons.* The internal commerce of Scarborough is greatest during the bathing season. There are weekly mark- ets on thursday and Saturday ; but the former is the proper market-day. The town abounds with good inns and elegant shops; and the streets are well paved and lighted. There are coaches and carriers for all parts, but there is no inland navigation. An attempt to form a canal towards the interior was made here, at t lie * Here, however, as at Whitby, several vessels b longing to the port are registered in London. These have been calculated to make 6000 tons more. The average number of ships annually built at Scarborough is about 6 or 7, and their average aggregate burden from 1000 to 1200 tons. The yearly receipts of the custom-house amounted before the peace to about 4500 annually. TOPOGRAPHY. (347 same time, and with tiie same result, as the like at- tempt at Whitby.* To the north-west of Scarborough along the shore, lies the district of Stainton Dale, the freehold- ers of which enjoy several important immunities, toge- ther with the lordship of the manor. f Nearer to Whitby is the inlet called Robin Hood’s Bay, in the north-west part of which there is a fishing town of the same name, of a romantic appearance, containing about 1000 inhabitants. The village and bay derive their name from the celebrated outlaw Robin Hood, who is said to have frequented the spot.§ On the opposite side of Whitby, about 3 miles to the north-west, is the village of Sandsend, so called * For a further account of Scarborough the reader is referred to the respectable work ofTlios Hindenvell, Esq. — T he castle and other antiquities, the spaw-waters, &c. will be noticed in the following chapters. f See p 443 — 445. § Tin's Robin Hood (or Robert earl of Huntington) celebrated for his predatory exploits, is said to have died in the year 1247. According to tradition, he and his trusty mate Little John went to dine with one of the abbots of Whitby, and being desired by the abbot to try how far each of them could shoot an arrow, they both shot irom the top of the abbey, and their arrows fell on the west side of Whitby Lathes, beside the lane leading from thence to Stainsacre; that of Robin Hood falling on the north side of the lane, and that of Little John about 100 leet further, on the south side of the lane. In the spot where Robin’s arrow is said to have lighted stands a stone pillar about a foot square, and 4 feet high ; and a similar pillar 2\ feet high, marks the place where John’s arrow fell. The fields on the one side are called Robin Hood closes, and those on the other Little John closes. They are so termed in the conveyance, dated in 1713, from Hugh Cholmley, Esq. to John Watson, ancestor to the present proprietor, Mr. Rob. Watson. The tradition is scarcely cre- dible, the distance of those pillars from the abbey being about a mile and a half. Much more incredible is the tradition, that Robin shot an arrow from the height where Stoupe Brow beacon is placed, right across the bay to the town which bears his name; having resolved to build a town where the arrow lighted. To the south of that beacon are two or three tumuli or barrows, called Robin Hood's butts; from a fabu- lous story of his using them as butts, when he exercised his men in shooting. 648 STATISTICAL SURVEY. from its situation at the extremity of a sandy beach, commencing at Whitby and ending here. The village was known by that name so early as the year 1200.* About a quarter of a mile nearer to Whitby is East Bow, so named from ils being east from Sandsend. At each of these villages a beck (or rivulet) falls into the sea, named after the villages. f These becks run parallel to each other for 3 or 4 miles, leaving a high ridge between. Along this ridge, and the banks on both sides, in some parts steep, and in some gently sloping, are the extensive pleasure grounds and woods of Mulgrave ; which for shady walks, diversified views, and picturesque scenery, may vie with almost any in the kingdom. In a lofty situation on the north, near the village of Lyth, stands mulgrave castle, the noble mansion of the Rt. Hon. Earl Mulgrave, commanding a most extensive prospect, both towards the sea and the land.§ His lordship possesses several manors in the neighbourhood; his estates reaching from near Egton on the one side to Staiths on the other. Beyond Sandsend is a high promontory called Kettleness , between which and another promontory near Staiths lies Bunswick tct/ke or bay, on the north- west part of which, on the face of a steep cliff, is Bunswick ; a fishing village of no great extent, but of the most romantic appearance; consisting of houses * See p. 432. j Sandsend beck and East-Row beck: Leland calls them Sandebefc and Estbek. Itin. I. p. 60. § The building was first erected by the dutchess of Buckingham, but has been greatly en- larged and improved by the present earl Mulgrave and his predeces- sor. A small house formerly stood on the spot, belonging to a family of the name Shipton, who had a private burying ground close by, now covered up. — The old castle of Mulgrave will be noticed in the next chapter. TOPOGRAPHY. 649 perched in the side of the cliff, and rising one above another in various forms,, with little gardens inter- spersed here and there. As portions of the cliff are occasionally shooting, houses are often rent and dislo- cated, others wholly demolished, and instances are said to have occurred of houses slipping down entire, together with their bases, and taking up a fresh position below. But the most memorable event in the history of this place is, that, about 150 years ago, the whole village, except a single house, sunk down in one night, the ground on which it then stood, which was to the south of the present village, having suddenly given way. It is stated, as a most providential circumstance, that most of the inhabitants were that night waking a corpse, and that perceiving the approaching catas- trophe, they not only escaped themselves, but alarmed the rest, so that scarcely any lives were lost in this dreadful overthrow. The houses, with their contents, were for the most part buried under masses of earth or stone, and sunk down towards the shore, where various articles have occasionally been washed out by the tide.* * The solitary house that survived the general ruin, or at least a house on the same spot, is still seen near the edge of a precipice at the south end of the village. It belonged for many years to a family of the name Heselton. We are told that the wake was kept there. The date of the calamity is ascertained by this circumstance, that Fras. Calvert, who died 56 years ago, at the age of 100, was known to have been 3 years old when Runswick sunk. Some coins have been washed out by the tide, but have not been taken care of. Among the other articles discovered is a small silver tea-spoon, bearing the initials M. W. On the back is carved a cage, with a bird just escaped from it and perched on the top, above which is this motto I love liberty. The device seems to indicate that the spoon was made during the commonwealth. 4 o 650 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Above two miles beyond Runswick, is another fishing town called Staiths * which contains about 1000 inhabitants. It is on the whole a thriving town, though it is injured by the attacks of the sea on the one side, and hemmed in by high cliffs on the other. This place, with Robin Hood’s Ray, and the small village of Salthurn beyond Huntcliff, are noted for smuggling. Every friend of mankind will desire the complete sup- pression of a traffic, as pernicious to the morals of all concerned in it, as to the public revenue and the fair trader. — A rivulet falls into the sea at Staiths, after meandering through a valley of considerable beauty and extent. Near the head of that valley, a little be- yond the ancient village of Rousby, is Grinkel Park, the seat of R. W. Middleton, Esq. Three miles west from Staiths, is Loftus, or Loft- house ; a handsome village: and in a small creek, to the north-west, is the village of Skinningrave, where is the seat of John Easterby, Esq. Beyond Huntcliff, in the same direction, a beautiful sandy beach extends from Salthurn to Redcar; and opposite the middle of this beach, is the village of Marsk, where is an ancient hall, the seat of the Hon. Lawr. Dundas, M. P. — Redcar and Coatham, which occupy the most northerly part of our district, are two flourishing villages, much re- sorted to by genteel company during the bathing season. They would he greatly improved, were the streets cleared of the ridges of sand, with which they * Its name is derived from the numerous staiths erected to secure the houses against the sea. Runsicick seems to come from ryn, a furrow or cut, and wife, a creek. The bay might be termed furrowed creek from the deep cuts that open into it, formed by rivulets. TOPOGRAPHY. 651 are often obstructed. The inhabitants, like those of Marsk, Saltburn, and Skinningrave, are chiefly em- ployed in fishing.* The plain of Cleveland, and the skirts of those numerous hills by which it is bounded, and from whose cliffs, as well as the cliffs on the sea-coast, it derives its name,f present a diversified and interesting pros- pect. The eye of the philanthropist, and of the man of taste, must experience a high gratification, in sur- veying so many fertile fields, and rich pastures, watered with numerous rills ; so many smiling plains, and gentle slopes, studded with the simple hamlets of the poor, and the splendid mansions of the rich ; and decked here and there with thickets, coppices, and shady groves. Even the hills, some of which are skirted with woods, have on the whole an agreeable aspect; and, if the eye catches the bleak moors on the south, the scene is brightened by the contrast.— The principal family seats and pleasure grounds in this part of the district, not already named, are those of the Turner family, at Kirkleatham ; of the Rt. Hon. Lord Dundas, at Upleatham; of John Hall Wharton, Esq. M. P. at Skelton ; of Rob. Chaloner, Esq. M. P. at Guisborough ; of the same gentleman, at Tockets, or the Plantation (the seat of the late Gen. Hale); of John Lowther, Esq. at Wilton ; of Wm. Ward Jack- son, Esq. at Normanby; of Sir William Pennyman, Bart, at Ormsby ; of B. & T. Rudd, Esqrs. at Marton ; * Some dangerous rocks lie opposite Redcar, where many lament- able shipwrecks have occurred, f The ancient name is Cliffland or Clifiand, which often occurs in the records of Whitby abbey : it was afterwards softened into Cliveland, and lastly corrupted into Cleveland. 4 0 2 652 STATISTICAL SURVEY. of J. Lee, Esq. at Pinchinthorpe ; of the Wilson family, at Ayton ; of T. Wayne, Esq. at Anngrove; of R. Campion, Esq. at Easby ; of Sir Wm. Foulis, Bart, at Ingleby; and of Robt. Bel! Livesey, Esq. at Kildale. The principal towns in this quarter are Guisborough and Stokesley ; both of which, especially the latter, are handsome and thriving towns, each containing near 1800 inhabitants, and each having a weekly market. That ol Guisborough is on Friday, and that of Stokes- ley on Saturday. On the western border of the district is Bilsdale, a narrow but well cultivated valley of great length, chiefly belonging to Chas. Slingsby Duncombe, Esq. This valley sends forth a principal branch of the Rye, which River flows down by Rievaux abbey, by the town of Helmsley, and by Duncombe Park,* into the vale of Pickering, where it falls into the Derwent. A portion of the rich vale of Pickering forms the boundary of our district on the south. Here the most remarkable object that strikes us, is a long chain of towns extending along the foot of the hills, from Sca- ntier near Scarborough, as far as Kirkby Moorside, and even to Helmsley. It seems as if the population of the hills and of the low grounds to the south, had all been collected here to form this grand chain. Among these towns is Hutton Bushell, the seat of Geo. Osbaldeston, Esq. M. P. ; Wykeham, the seat of Richard Langley, Esq.; Brompton,f the seat of Sir Geo. Cayley, Bart.; * Did our limits admit, it would have been gratifying to have inserted an account of the masterpieces of art at Duncombe Park, the princely mansion of Chas. Slingsby Duncombe, Esq. M. P. t This town is considered as the birth-place of John ofBrompton, the celebrated TOPOGRAPHY. 60S Ebberston, where there is a handsome villa of the Hotham family; and Thornton, the seat of Rich. Hill, Esq. To these family seats may be added; Thornton Riseborough, south of Pickering, the seat of Luke Robinson, Esq.; Kingthorpe, north of Pickering, the seat of Col. John Fothergii! : and Hackness, the de- lightful mansion of the Johnstone family.* Almost all the towns in the chain above mentioned have their beauties, but they are too numerous to be particularised. The principal towns are Pickering and Kirkby Moor- side, f each containing above 1700 inhabitants. They are both handsome and improving towns; having com- modious streets, and good inns: the former has a weekly market on monday, the latter on Wednesday. The vale of Pickering is an extensive and fertile plain ; but its northern margin at the foot of the hills is most interesting, not only on account of the numer- ous towns and family seats already noticed, but because on this side of the vale the scenery is diversified by the historian. Since the observations on the inscription in Whitby abbey were printed (see p. 341 — 343) I have seen the life of that author given in the preface to the Dtcem Scriptores, where, among other things, it is stated, on the authority of Chrysostomus Ilaniquez, that John of Bromptoi; was a Cistercian monk from his youth; which fully con- firms my opinion that the Whitby inscription lias no relation to him, and that Charlton’s account of his residence here is a groundless con- ceit: “Joannes Brompionus ordinis Cisterciensis habitum in Anglia ab adolesceutia suscepit.” It is well known that our monastery was Benedictine, and therefore he could not have spent his youlli here. * See p. 208, 209, 463, 464. t This town was anciently called Kirkby -moorshcvcd, or Kirkby at the head of the moor. That cele- brated libertine, the second dnke of Buckingham, who wasted his im- mense possessions in this quarter by dissipation, died here in extreme misery, at a house in the Market-place, belonging to Mr. Atkinson. The room in which he died has been preserved nearly in the same state in which it then was. His burial is thus recorded in the parish register. “ 1687. April 17th Gorges vilaus Lord dooke of bookingam.” 654 STATISTICAL SURVEY. sloping sides and projecting points of the hills, and is enriched with woods, gardens, and orchards. The low parts of the vale are apt to be occasionally overflowed by .the swelling of numerous rivers, issuing from the dales with which the moors on this side are much intersected. The principal river is the Derwent, remarkable for the circuitous rout which it pursues; for, though it rises near Flask inn, above Harwood dale, where some of its streams almost mingle with the rivulets that run down thence into Robin Hood’s Bay, it diverges from the coast, bends its winding course towards Mahon, and from thence unto the Ouse, with which it is united ; and its waters at last reach the sea at the mouth of the Humber. To finish this topographical sketch, it remains that w r e advert to the vale of the Esk, and its numerous branches which intersect the moors in the middle of the district, and meet, in some parts, the heads of (hose dales that open into the vale of Pickering, or the plain of Cleveland. The river Esk, which falls into the sea at Whitby, tiaverses nearly the whole breadth of our district; for its most westerly branches, in Basedaie and \\ ester- dale, approach unto Bilsdale. In its progress east- ward, it receives a multitude of lesser streams, issuing from a like number of dales, chiefly on the south side. These dales, as w’ell as the principal valley, are in general pleasant and fertile : in former times they were almost all covered with forests, particularly about Danby and Egton ; where some remains of the ancient TOPOGRAPHY. 655 woods are still seen. In proceeding up the Esk, and its branches, we meet With several pleasant villages and country-seats. Ruswarp, above a mile from Whit- by, is an agreeable spot; containing some neat houses, and good gardens. It has a venerable hall, now a farm-house, once belonging to the Bushell family : and a large corn-mill, built by the late Nath. Choimley, Esq. Above Ruswarp is a level tract called the Carrs , a name applied to places that are occasionally over- flowed. At the distance of 4 miles from Whitby, is the handsome village of Sleights on a sloping bank on the south, with a hall belonging to Mrs. Bateman, once the seat of the Burdelt family; and on a com- manding height on the north, stands Aislaby, the resi- dence of Mark Noble and Jn. Benson, Esqrs. In the valley below is Esk-Hall on the south side, the seat of J. C. Coates, Esq. ; and Woodlands, on the north, the pleasant mansion of H. W. Yeoman, Esq , who also possesses Newbegin, further up the valley, the ancient seat of the Salvains. Egton, about eight miles from Whitby, is a populous village in a high and bleak si-tuation ; but the valley beneath presents the most charming scenery, especially about Limber hill, and Arncliff wood. Several miles further up, in another sweet spot, is Danby lodge, belonging to lord Downe. — Near the head of a dale that branches off below Sleights, is Newton-house, built by the late Jonas Brown, Esq. On an obelisk near the house is a Latin inscription, to commemorate his industry and perseve- rance, in converting wild moors into pleasure grounds. 656 STATISTICAL SURVEY. CHAP. II. ANTIQUITIES. THE country around Whitby presents an ample field for antiquarian research. It furnishes, indeed, few reliques of the fine arts of the ancients, but it abounds with monuments of antiquity of other descrip- tions, the works of ages long forgotten. Many of those antiquities owe their preservation to the barren and sequestered state of the places where they are found. The hand of cultivation is hostile to the pur- suits of the antiquary, who finds his harvest in those wild tracts that are never disturbed by the plough or the spade. — As (here is much variety in the antiquities of our district, it will be of advantage to arrange them under distinct heads. I. Holes or tumuli , druidic al remains, and an- cient British settlements. — In surveying the moors, and even many of the enclosures in this district, the eye of the observer must be struck with the immense number of those little eminences of earth or stone, known by the Latin name tumuli, here called houes, in other places barrows , and in Scotland cairns. They abound in every part of our moors; and no where are they more numerous than on Sleights moor, and Ais- laby moor. In general they are scattered here and there, without any order ; in some instances they are placed in threes , either in a row, or forming a triangle ; ANTIQUITIES. 657 and in other parts we find a long line of them, placed nearly at regular distances; as may be observed on Aislaby moor, and on Houe hill near Stoupe Brow. They vary in their materials, their form, and their size, as well as in their position. Some are composed al- most wholly of stones, some almost entirely of earth, and others of a mixture of both. By far the greater part are round; some are square or oblong square, of which there are instances on the moor beyond Aislaby quarries; and a very few are of the shape which Dr. Stukeley calls pyriform, being oblong, and rounded at both ends, but broader at one end than at the other. The only instances of this kind which I have noticed are at Scamridge near Ebberston. They are of stone, and of a considerable height and length, and have a circular depression on the top near each end. There is much variety in the construction of the round houes : many are conical, but flattened at the top, which is generally the case with those composed of stone; a still greater number are of the basin or crater form, having a deep hollow in the centre of the top; some, of both these forms, have a circle of large stones set round their base; some have a double circle; some, in lieu of a circle, are surrounded by a trench ; and some have both a trench and a circle. They are as much diversified in their size: for, while some are only 5 or 6 feet in diameter, others are from 70 to above 100 feet ; and, while many are but 2 or 3 feet in height, sortie have an elevation of 12, 15, or perhaps 20 feet. A number of the most conspicuous houes are dis- tinguished by particular names. Many of these names 4 P 6uS STATISTICAL SURVEY. are derived from their colour; as Szearfhoue, Green- houe, jBrozowhoue, and Blackhoue, corrupted into Bla- key : some from their form, as Flat\ toue, Basin\ loue :* some from substances near them ; as BrackenX toue, from the ferns near it, SiYhoue, from the vvhinstone ridge over which it stands:f and some from the names of men; as JFbsferhoues, Walpelhoue, corrupted into Wapley, Lilhoue, perhaps from the ancient Saxon name Lilia, and i?o&houe from the Christian name Robert. All these houes, of whatever form, are to be regarded, with a very few exceptions, as ancient re- positories of the dead. Before the introduction of Christianity, there were no particular places, like church-yards, set apart as cemeteries, but the dead were interred in any spot that seemed most convenient. At the same time, it was customary, out of respect for the dead, to raise over their remains a heap of earth or of stones. § Those myriads of little hillocks with which our moors are studded, are therefore so many sepul- chral monuments; differing in size and form, accord- ing to the rank of the deceased, or the fashions of different ages, or tribes. Numbers of these tumuli have been opened ; and have been found, in almost every instance, to contain the relics of the dead. On such examinations, another singular fact has been * This houe, which gives name to a farm on the east of Scam- ridge, is very large, with a deep cavity in the centre. Some allege that it received its name from a silver basin dng out of it; — a very unlikely story. Perhaps, however, the name may not be derived from its form, but from a man’s name, Besing or Basing, which occurs both in Domesday, and in the records of Whitby abbey, y The word sill is used in the county of Durham, and other parts, to denote any very hard rock. § This custom was sometimes used by the ancient Israelites. See Joshua, VII. 26; VIII. 29; X. 27, 2 Sam. XVIII. 17. ANTIQUITIES. 659 established, — that when the custom of erecting houes prevailed, the dead bodies were not usually buried entire, as in the present day, but were first burnt to ashes, and then these ashes, being put into an urn, were deposited in the houe ; or rather, the} 7 were laid on the ground, and the houe was raised over them. Each houe generally contains one or more of such urns, which the country people call pankins, from their resemblance to earthen vessels so named. They are generally near the centre of the houe; where, in some instances, an oblong cavity, covered with flat stones, has been found, containing 5 or 6 urns placed in a row.* The urns are made of baked clay; but are so rudely framed, and so imperfectly baked, that it is rare to get one of them entire: they generally fall to pieces on being exposed to the air, and are often broken bv ignorant labourers, in the vain hope of finding money. Sometimes an urn has been found with a small urn within it, perhaps intended as a kind of lachrymatory, or rather as a receptacle for the ashes of the heart, or of some distinguished part of the body that has been burnt separately, while the large urn contains the ashes and calcined bones of the rest of the body.— Figure 1, in the plate of antiquities, represents an urn, found in Eskdaleside several years ago, but existing only in fragments, in Mr. Bird’s possession : it will give the reader an idea of the shape and rude ornaments of these funeral vases : the diameter at top is about 13 inches, at the bottom it tapers away * Such a cavity was called by the British name Cistvaen = a stone chest. Chalmers 5 Caled. 1. p. 84. 4 p 2 660 STATISTICAL SURVEY. to 4 inches; the depth is about 10 in. ; and the general thickness from \ in. to \ in. Figure 2 is a small urn, preserved entire, in possession of the author ; disco- vered a few years ago at Upleatham, within a large urn. It contained ashes similar to those in the exterior urn. It is only 2^ inches diameter at top, and in. at bottom ; 2 in. deep without, and in. within. Though cremation has been the general practice, when these houes were in use; yet sometimes the bodies have been buried whole, for entire skeletons have occasionally; been discovered, and even works of art incapable of enduring the fire. Charlton mentions a heart-shaped ear-ring of jet, found in one of the houes, lying in contact with the jaw-bone of a skele- ton.* Articles of ornament, however, and even wea- pons, are rarely found in any of our houes; nor has a single coin, as far as 1 know, been yet discovered. To which of the pagan nations or tribes that successively possessed this district, the formation of these houes is to be attributed, may admit of a doubt. Most probably they are the work of various tribes and ages; as may be inferred from their great diversity, and immense number. They cannot be assigned to the Romans; for we do not find them most numerous near the Roman camps in our district, but rather near the entrenchments of some ruder people ; and they are * Charlton, p. 65. The ear-ring was above 2 inches over, and about J in. thick; and had a hole in the upper part, by which it had been suspended from the ear. — An iron spear or dagger, and some other pieces of iron, were found some years ago in a houe on Seamer moor. Hinderwell’s Hist, of Scarborough, p.22. Even when the dead were burnt, it was not uncommon to throw their armour on the. Mineral pile. Alfred’s Orosius, p. 27. ANTIQUITIES. 6G1 known to abound in those parts of the British isles where the Romans had no permanent station, and even in countries which they never penetrated. Be- sides, it does not appear that this was the Roman mode of sepulture; for, though they practised cremation and used sepulchral urns, the erection of tumuli over their dead was by no means genera!.* Neither can these ancient monuments be appropriated to the Saxons or the Danes; for they are found in parts of Britain which were never subject to either; and their number, even in our district, is too g’reat to have been used by either, or by both, in their pagan state ; both having embraced Christianity not very long after their respec- tive settlements. Yet, it is not improbable, or rather it is certain, that some of the tumuli were raised by the Saxonsf or by the Danes. About 4 years ago, a piece of ground belonging to Hardwicke farm, in Harewood-Dale, was taken in for cultivation; when there was discovered, at the depth of a foot or more from the surface, an ancient road 3 or 4 feet broad, paved with flat stones, pointing towards a field, known from time immemorial by the name chapel field. On the side of the road were observed some vestiges of houses; but the most remarkable circumstance is, that one of the stone hones on that piece of ground was * See Chalmers’ Caledonia, I. p. 84, 85; Notes. The S.T.T.L. Sit t'lbi terra ievis, pronounced hy the Romans at the close of funerals, and often inscribed on sepulchral monuments, seems to imply that they did not heap loads of earth over the dead. Some urns not covered by tumuli are said to have been found beside Aislaby, near the Roman road : these were probably Roman, f May not Lilhoue, at the head of the Derwent, be the tomb of Lilia who sacrificed himself to save king Edwin, or at least of some Saxon of the same name? See p. 106. 662 STATISTICAL SURVEY. found upon the road ; <-o that it must have been raised not only after the road was made, but after it had fallen into disuse. Now, in all probability, the chapel-field received its name from some Saxon chapel erected here about the time of iElfleda, to which the ancient road led ; and therefore these tumuli must have been erected by the Danes, after the destruction of the Saxon places of worship. The houe contained one or more urns, which as usual fell into pieces, and several stones in the foundation, and even some of the stones of the road, were found discoloured by the action of fire.*' * The facts here slated, on the testimony of Mr. W in Tyson, tenant on the farm, and other competent witnesses, are sufficient to overthrow tiie opinion adopted by some, and among others by Chal- mers, on the authority of Douglas’s Nenia, (Caledonia, I p. 8 - 3 . Notes ) “ that the Danes had desisted from burning their dead, before their expeditions into Britain.” That this idea is erroneous, is clear not only from the Harewood Dale tumulus, but from a passage in Alfred’s Orosius (p. 26 , 27 , 28 .), relating to the customs of a people on the shores of the Baltic: TCnb paep i y mio Cj’t uni ¥>eap p line jjaji biS man bea& pat: he h^ nine mi; pop sejineb mib hp in gutn. ppeon&'um mona^S jehpil'um rpejc-n *3 pa kymngep *■] pa o^Spe healfSaingene men ppa micle lencg ppa hi majian ppe&a liabbaS. (bpsloim lialp geap.) "f hi beo^ amp pbarpneo licg-.S bupau eop'San on liyjia liaipaim. -] ealie pa itpi e pe pi's lie hi? nine. p.eji pceal beon gebpync. pleja. pone <3*5 pe hi lime popba?pne^. &e: — Sets p set: ip nub Cproim ^eap paep 'Sarc preal adeep 5e ! 8eooep man beon popbspneo. *] gvp 'Sap man an ban pm&e '<5 aiiipopbaepneb. In hit pceoian 11110101111 jebatan : — “And there is among the Estum a custom, that when there is a man dead, he lieth ■within unburnt, with his relations and friends, for a month, sometimes two ; and the kings and the other chief men so much longer as they have more wealth, (sometimes half a year), during which they are unburnt, and lie above ground in their bouses : and all the while that the corpse is within, there must be drinking aud playing till Hie day 1 hat they hum him. &c.” — “And it is a custom among the Estum, that men of every class shall be burnt; and if a man Suds a bone un- burnt, lie shall cause [die offence] to be severely punished.” — From these extracts it is clear, that, in the days of Alfred, cremation was general on the shores of the Baltic, so that the Estum (a people in the north of Poland) are not considered as singular in burning their dead, but in keeping them so long unburnt, and iu practising cremation universally, without exception. ANTIQUITIES. 663 Probably many of the other stone hou.es in the district are Danish -—It is certain, however, that by far the greater part of our houes have been raised by the an- cient Britons, botli because there is no other people to whom they can be ascribed, and because they are found in great numbers in connection with other an- tiquities evidently British. They are the tombs of our rude, but warlike, ancestors; and many of them must have been erected at the distance of more than 2uC0 years. It has been hinted, that a few of (he tumuli have not been mere sepulchres. Perhaps some of them might be a kind of watch-towers, and some of them might serve for tribunals, from whence the chiefs ad- dressed their followers, or administered justice.* But it is still more probable, that several of them were places of worship, as well as of sepulture. This is supposed to have been the case with those tumuli which are encircled with large upright stones; and especially such as have circles, avenues, or rows, of such stones, in their vicinity: which tumuli have therefore been called Druid cairns.j- The Druids, as is well known, were the priests of Britain, and of Gaul, before the introduction of Christianity .§ They worshipped in the open air, some- times in groves of oak, and often within circles of large erect stones: and their altars, on which they frequently offered human victims, were large flat stones, * According to Dion Cassius, Bunduica, or Boadicea, the famous British heroine, mounted a tribunal of earth, when she was going to address the soldiers. Xiphilin. Epit. p. 169. f Chalmers 5 Caled. I. p. 72—75. § Cassar de Bello Gall. L. VI. c. 12—17, 664 STATISTICAL SURVEY. generally placed in (he centre of those circles, and sometimes on the tops of cairns. Many such Druidical temples still exist in the British isles, especially in North Britain ; and several of them have stood in this district, though the ravages of time, and the depreda- tions of modern Goths who break up all stones within (heir reach, to mend walls or repair roads, have made sad havock among these monuments of our pagan an- cestors. There are indeed several hones with single o circles of stones, tolerably entire; but such are too numerous to have been all Druid cairns, especially as no altars are found on their summits. Those with a double circle are more likely to have been Druidical; and some remains of such are to be seen on (he moors beside Stoupe Brow. Some of our houes too, have upright stones near them, apparently the remnants of rows or avenues leading to them: this is particularly observable at Swartboue, a large h me which is encir- cled with stones at the base, and, from which there is a long line of smaller houes descending towards Ais- laby. No distinct druidical circles, apart from any houe, have been observed in the district; hut there are some collections of upright stones, which bear strong marks of being the remains of circles of consi- derable extent. Some of these mutilated temples may he seen on Stoupe Brow moor, on the moor south of Godeland chapel, and on the moor between Glasedale and Egton Grange, near the Rosedale road, not far from a large houe. Other collections of upright stones, arranged in lines, or placed without any apparent or- der, are found in several parts. On Sleights moor ANTIQUITIES. 665 there is a remarkable assemblage of this description, called the high Bride stones, forming a kind of irre- gular line, and perhaps originally an avenue. There were 11 upright stones in this cluster some years ago: at present there are only 6 standing, and 3 or 4 that have fallen down : none of them exceed 7 or 8 feet high. Many of these unsculptured monuments are found in pairs, and a great number are standing singly. They are chiefly of the common sandstone, but a few of them are of a hard siliceous stone, called crow stone : some are nearly square, others flattish, but none round. Their height varies from 3 or 4 feet to 9 or 10 : among the tallest may be noticed Long stone, between Danby beacon and Wapley, and a stone a little to the east of Ralph cross. Of the single stones, and the stones which are found in pairs, some rnay be druidical, and connected with religion; others commemorative, de- signed to record some battle, or remarkable event ; and some sepulchral, like the houes.f A stone above * The low Bride stones on the same moor will fall to be noticed afterwards, as well as the Bride stones on Blakey moor, which last are natural rocks. Circles or clusters of upright stones, passing by similar names have been found in other places. See Gough’s Camden, I. p. 81. II. p. 311. III. p 36 In some parts the name is connected with a fabulous story of a bride and her maidens being turned into stones. — It is possible that Bridestones may be a corruption for Druid- stones t The custom of erecting such pillars to commemorate re- markable events, or mark out the graves of the dead, is of very ancient date, as we see from scripture; Genesis, xxvni. 18. XXXI. 45, 46. xxxv. 20 Joshua, iv. 20. xv. 6. 1 Samuel, vri. 12. 2 Samuel, xvm. 18 According to Chalmers, the practice continued in North Britain, so late as about the year of Christ 1 100; for, after relating the assas- sination of Duncan king of Scotland on the banks of the Bervie, he observes: “ An upright stone still forms the unlettered memorial of his odious end/ 5 Caled. I. p. 423. It is said to have been among Woden’s laws; “That large tumuli should be raised over the graves of kings and chiefs, and tall stones, inscribed with Runic characters, erected at the sepulchres of the brave.” Sammes’s Britannia, p. 399. 666 STATISTICAL SURVEY. East Barnby, which once had another near it, is said to mark out the grave of a giant called Wade ; but that honour is assigned, by another tradition, to two similar pillars, near Goldsbrough, standing about 100 feet asunder.* In connection with the houes and the druidical pillars, I would here introduce some singular remains which few antiquaries have hitherto noticed, and scarcely any have minutely investigated. As these remains, which I have ventured to call ancient British settlements abound in this vicinity, and as they have in a great measure escaped the observation of former writers, it will be proper to give a detailed account of their discovery, appearance, and situation. About 25 years ago, Mr. Bird began to observe that a great many of the hills facing the plain of Cleve- land have rows of circular or oval pits, running along their northern sides : and when he and the author were exploring the district, to collect materials for the pre- sent work, these pits, or hollows, naturally attracted * The stones in botli places are laid down in the map, but the engraver by mistake has made them like houses. Leland notices the Barnby stones, Itin. I. p. 60. So does Camden, Britannia, Editio Quarta, p. 55*5. The latter says they were about 7 ft. high and 1 1 ft. distant, the supposed length of giant Wade ! The Barnby stone now standing is only about 5 ft. high ; and of the two near Golds- brough, one is 5 ft., the other 4 ft. The tradition is uniform in con- necting these stones with giant Wade, but not in counting them his grave stones ; for there are numerous fables, ascribing to the gigantic powers of Wade, and his wife and son, the erecting of such monuments, as well as the building of Mulgrave and Pickering castles, and the forming of the Roman road. One of Wade’s stones, which stood near Swarthoue, was broken up some years ago to mend roads. I am in- clined to think that the fables now mentioned may have more connec- tion with the Saxon god WODEN, than with the Saxon duke wada. But of this more afterwards. ANTIQUITIES. 667 their attention. Almost every hill of Cleveland which we examined has a row of these pits on the side next the plain, often about half-way up the hill, but gene- rally nearer the upper part, and sometimes on the verge of the cliffs. Some of the pits are circular, and others oval ; some 2 or 3 feet deep, others 6 or 8 feet ; some only 5 or 6 feet diameter, others not less than J8 or 20. Their number is as much varied as their form or size: in some parts they are placed at inter- vals of 40 or 50 yards, or upwards, in others the in- tervals are but 30 or 40 feet ; in most places the row is single, in many it is double, and in some broader: the hollows being most numerous in those parts of the line that are most accessible. Where there is a double row, the pits are generally placed in a zigzag form, so that each pit in the front row is opposite the space be- tween two pits in the second row, and vice versa. A most remarkable example of these hollows, in their varied forms, may be seen on Rosebury Topping. That well known hill consists of two parts, the base, which is of considerable extent, and is partly joined to the adjacent hills on the south; and the top, which rises from the base in the form of a cone, tapering to a narrow point. Round this conical part, a little above the base, there is an entire circle of large pits, placed at long intervals. The base of the hill, like the ad- jacent heights on the same level, has a precipice, or sudden declivity, more or less steep, towards the plain on the north ; and immediately above the verge of this precipice is another line of pits which runs along as 4 q 2 668 STATISTICAL SURVEY. far as the hill is exposed towards the plain, and is con- tinued on the adjacent hills. This line exhibits great variety : in some parts it is single, in some double, and for a short space, where the cliff is very steep, it is wholly discontinued above, but appears below at the foot of the precipice, where a line is also observed in a few other places. The pits are of various sizes, be- ing generally much smaller than those in the line that encircles the conical top : yet they are much closer together, and towards the north-east coiner of the base, where the hill is most accessible, we find near the verge of the declivity, 4 or 5 rows of pits placed so close together as scarcely to leave any space between them. — The high antiquity of these curious cavities may be inferred, not only from their appearance, but from this circumstance, that in the sides of some of the hills the lines are in several places interrupted, and upon a minute survey of such places, it is found that the interruptions, which are in some instances very great, have been caused by the slipping down of vast masses from the upper part of the hill : now, as such shootings of the cliffs have rarely occurred for many years past, but have taken place in great numbers since the formation of these pits, and as on the spots where these avalanches have happened, the surface seems as ancient as that of any other part of the hills, we are justified in assigning to these singular lines a very early date. After examining the rows of pits towards Cleve- land, it was natural to search for others throughout ANTIQUITIES. 669 the district; and the search led to results far exceeding our expectations. No regular lines of cavities were found on the face of any of the southern hills, except in Troutsdale, where a few holes of the larger size appear near the verge of the cliffs, on the side next Basinhoue and Scamridge; but numerous collections of pits have been discovered, existing in various parts of the district and appearing in a variety of forms. The first collection that came to our knowledge is in Egton Grange, 10 miles from Whitby, about a furlong to the right of the Rosedale road, on a rising ground, near the edge of the moor. The spot occupied by the pits forms an irregular but compact figure, 500 feet long by 450 broad, all of which is thickly set with these curious hollows, except a small space left vacant in the middle. The caviti< s are all round; they vary in diameter, from 8 or 10 feet to 16 or 18; and, in depth, from 3 or 4 feet to 5 or 6. This depth includes the height of a circular border, or parapet, round the edge, formed by the earth and stones thrown out in making the pit: in which parapet there is usually an opening on one side, by way of entrance. The exterior rows are placed in the same alternate or zigzag mode ob- served on the Cleveland hills; and so much is the area crowded with pits, except the vacant space within, that fin general the parapet, or margin, of each, comes in contact with the margins of those next adjacent; the ground thus assuming the appearance of an honey- comb. These excavations must have required great labour ; for the dry eminence, where they are formed. 670 STATISTICAL SURVEY. consists of alternate beds of sandstone and bituminous shale, with a thin coating of alluvial soil above, so that some of them penetrate through beds of stone, rounded out to form a kind of solid circular walls. Where the ground was less solid, some have been built round within, in the form of a well.* No trench, or vallum, surrounds the area; but it is sheltered with trees on the south-west, and seems to have been once encircled with wood. Some upright stones are seen on the south-east, probably the fragments of a druidical tem- ple; and several houes, some of them very large, are on the moor a little above. This discovery could not fail to stimulate our re- searches ; and they were continued with a success which amply repaid the ardour of curiosity. In a short time three other clusters of pits were discovered, resembling those of Egton Grange, both in form, size, number, and situation. One of those clusters is about a mile to the south of Godeland chapel. It occupies a space about 600 feet long, and 150 broad, close to the wes- tern verge of an extensive heath-clad hill. The cavi- ties, which are very numerous, are known by the name of the Killing Pits, from a tradition that a battle was fought here. The area is not so regularly filled up as * Scarcely any vestiges of building can now be perceived, but the existence of such building is ascertained from the testimony of Mr. Jn. Fletcher, farmer at Shawfoot, near Egton, and formerly tenant on the farm where these pits are situated, under Rob. Carey Elwes, Esq. the proprietor. Mr. Fletcher took in a field adjoining to the pits on the north-east, on which occasion many of the pits were demolished, part of the area being thrown into the field, and remains of building ■were then found in some of them. The inequalities of the surface where the pits were broken down, are very conspicuous, and the field is still called the holey intake. ANTIQUITIES. 671 that in Egton Grange, and, being long and narrow, it has no vacant space left in the midst. No appear- ance of wood is observed, but houes and druidical stones are scattered along the hill. — Another cluster of round pits of the same extent, but in a much warmer situation, was discovered in Harewood-Dale, about half a mile north from the chapel. The spot is fitly termed the Dry Heads, for as the steep bank of Hare- wood-Dale beck (a branch of the Derwent) is on the west, and the ground gently declines on the east side, and also at the south and north ends, it is remarkably dry. It is every where crowded with pits of various sizes: one of them on the east side is no less than 25 feet over, but it is doubtful from appearances, whether it may not have been enlarged by some persons dig- ging into it through curiosity. The place is very likely to have been once encircled with wood: some tumuli are not far off, but as a road passes by on the east, we are not to expect druidical stones. — The remains of a much larger collection of circular cavities, termed the Hole Pits, were found at Westerdale, commencing about 200 yards south-west of the chapel, and ex- tending in that direction about 1000 feet, and in breadth about 300 feet. The pits are partly on the common, but chiefly in an enclosure belonging to A. Paris, Esq., occupied by Dan. Hugill. The ground is dry and level, with a sloping meadow on the north- west, and hollows, apparently worn by streams, on the other sides. The pits are in many parts much de- faced by the cattle : the most entire are chiefly towards 672 STATISTICAL SURVEY. the souih end, where some of them owe their preset valion to bushes or stunted trees growing on their sides; perhaps the telics of a wood that once sur- rounded the spot. In the centre has been an open area, as at Bgton Grange. We cannot look for houes or druidical stones so close to a village. — It is a curious fact that these pits are mentioned in a charter granted to the nuns of Basedale about the year 1200, when they were called the Ref-holes, a name probably given them because of their confused and irregular aspect.* These three clusters of pits have all the same form and appearance, but other three have been discovered in the district, differing from them very materially. The most singular is on Danby moor, between Danby beacon and Wapley. Here tiie pits are also round, but instead of being scattered about irregularly, they are arranged in two parallel straight lines; and the earth dug out of the pits at their formation, instead of forming a border round each pit, lias been taken to form a wall or fence, on the outside of the lines, so that two walls run parallel to the two rows of pits throughout their whole length, inclosing the pits * The word ro^F'signifies “to huddle/’ ravel denotes “to entan- gle, or involve,” and in our country dialect raffled means confused, or entangled. The charter in which the lief holes are named is that of Guide de Bovincourt; which, being subscribed by “Peter abbot of Whiieby,” and “ Roald prior of Gyseburn,” as witnesses, must have been granted before 1210, and perhaps so early as 1190 The pas- sage alluded to is this: “ Dedi etiarn praelatis monialibus quoddam "pfaturn ad caput vilife de Westerdale apud austrum de sub Refholcs, ike.” — ‘ I have also given the aforesaid nuns a certain meadow at the head of the town of Westerdale, on the south, below the Ref holes, &c.” Bug'd. Mon. 1. p. 841. The meadow ground below the pits on the south and south-west of the present village of Westerdale, is doubtless that described in the charter. ANTIQUITIES. 673 between them. The pits are not placed in the zigzag’ form, but opposite each other, and while the outer margin of each row is close to the vallum on the cut- side of it, there is a vacant space between their inner margins, forming a kind of street between the rows. These double lines of cavities, with their enclosing walls, are not all 'in one spot, in the same continued lines, but are found partly on one side of a hollow or valley, with a stream running in it, and partly on the other. The stream runs from south to north, or rather from south west to north-east; and the lines on both sides are nearly at right angles to it. Those on the east begin near the verge of the sloping bank on that side of the valley, and extend eastward above 100 pacts. In this range are 28 pits, 14 in each row. The breadth of the whole range is about 50 feet, including the walls on each side; the breadth of each pit is about 10 feet, which is nearly the distance between one pit and another. Beyond this range, 100 paces to the south-east, is the commencement of another, contain- ing only 6 pits, 3 in each row, yet having a wall on each side, like the other. But the principal collection is on the west side, commencing about 150 paces from the western edge of the valley, and extending west- ward to a great distance. This collection, which is not exactly in a line with the first range, being a liit e further south, is composed of two ranges; the one 130 paces in length, comprising 30 pits, 15 in each row; the other about 140 paces, containing 34 pits, 17 in each row. These two ranges are nearly in a line, an 4 R 674 STATISTICAL SURVEY. interval of 25 paces being left between them. They are a little broader than the first range, a wider space being left between the rows of pits, which are enclosed by the same kind of low earthen walls, on the outside. There are no walls at the ends of any of the ranges, these being left open, apparently with a view to admit of additions. The most westerly rknge, which is also the largest, is distinguished by this peculiarity, that near the middle of the south row, we find, instead of a pit, a circular space, 35 feet diameter, enclosed by the low wall on this side, which here projects in a semicir- cle outwards, and another semicircle inwards, to form this circular space, the centre of which is therefore not in the line of the pits, but in the line of the wall. In the interval between this range, and that next it on the east, are some druidical remains; and some tall druidical stones stand in various places on the north; one of which is Long stone formerly noticed, which is about 200 paces off. On the south are three large houes, each about 70 feet diameter, and near 100 feet asunder, placed in a line parallel to these ranges, at the distance of about 100 paces. The centre houe, which is of the crater kind, is opposite the interval between the two ranges. To the east of these houes, but not in the same line, is another houe rather broader, yet not so high. It is of a singular form, having a hollow ring around it, near the base, making the part without the ring appear as a vallum to the inner part, in the valley between the eastern and western ranges of pits is an oval enclosure, or rather there are two ANTIQUITIES. 675 enclosures, nearly semilunar, one extending along the western bank, the other on the opposite bank, each enclosed with a single ditch, and divided into two parts by a transverse ditch ascending each bank. The upper, or circular part, of the eastern enclosure comes close to the west end of the range of pits on that side : and the upper part of the opposite enclosure approaches the singular tumulus last noticed. — No other collection of pits, enclosed with walls, has been discovered in the district, except a cluster containing only 4, walled on each side, and open at each end, on the moor near Ugthorpe Rails, where there is also a small collection of pits similar to those at Egton Grange, with a num- ber of remarkable houes, and some stones that appear druidical. The most extensive collection of pits that has come to our knowledge is that called the Stone Hags,* on Blakey moor, 4 miles south of Ralph cross, close to the road between Castleton and Kirkby Moorside. This cluster is above 1400 feet long from north to south, and 300 feet broad from east to west. The area is wholly occupied with pits, which differ from all those already described, being exceedingly varied in their form, some round, some oval, some semilunar, &c.; and being in general of a large size, both in breadth and in depth. Their depth partly arises from the great height of their margins, or walls, which are principally composed of stone, and seem to have been formed noj merely with the materials dug up at the making of the * The word hags deuotes broken, or uneven places; so that this name is akin to Ref-holes. 4 r 2 676 STATISTICAL SURVEY. pits, but with stones collected from the moor. Vestiges of building are very evident, and in some places there seem to have been partitions, dividing the larger cavi- ties into separate apartments. Vast quantities of stones have been carried hence to mend the adjoining road, by which many of the pits have been demolished, or much injured; but the supply seems almost inexhaust- ible. Houes and druidical stones are found on the moor at no great distance. — Another cluster, similar to this, remains to be described. It is within the rabbit war- ren of Mr. M. Herbert, at Scamridge, near Ebberston ; where it occupies a space about 500 yards long, but not more than 50 broad, on a dry bank facing the east. The pits are in general smaller than those at Stone Hags, but like them are of various forms, chiefly oblong. The margins, or walls, of the pits, are formed of earth and stones; and, in many places, entrances descending into them are very discernible, and even passages conducting from one to another. Beside these pits are the pyriform houes formerly noticed. They are two in number, situated on the level ground im- mediately above the bank, with the broad end next the pits ; and they are so regularly placed, in respect of the range of pits, that if we divide it into two parts, each part will have a tumulus nearly opposite its centre. The houes differ in magnitude: one of them called Robhoue is above 40 yards long, 20 broad at the east end. and 9 or 10 at the west: the other is 25 yards long, 10 broad at the east end, and 5 at the west. One of them is much mutilated, a great part of the ANTIQUITIES. 677 stones having been carried off, by which means many bones have been thrown out. The circular depressions on their summits are not so deep as the round pits, and have no raised border. — This remarkable cluster is surrounded by trenches that will afterwards be no- ticed ; and it is observable, that some of the trenches on Scamridge moor, and on the moors between that and Dalby, have pits at regular distances on the inside of the trench. By this time the reader must be prepared for ad- mitting the opinion, that these excavations are the re- mains of human abodes of a very ancient date. On no other supposition can we explain the facts now produced. These collections of pits cannot have been traps tor taking wild beasts, for many of those in Cleve- land are placed on the verge of cliffs too precipitous for any wild beasts to pass; they cannot have been formed by digging for minerals; they cannot be re- mains of ancient manufactories; nor can we suppose them to be merely the pits in which the ancients cooked their victuals.* But if we view them as the * T he natives of the South Sea islands dress their meat in small pits lined with stones See Cook’s Voyages The Saxon word pealSan — to boil is derived from pea ?> — a pit; so that the Saxons may have h id the same custom. The ancient Scots had a very simple mode of cooking victuals, at least, when they were living in camps: the skin of the slain beast was used as a boiler to dress the meat in, being filled with piei-es of flesh and a proper quantity of water, and suspended by stakes over a fire : 300 of these kettles were found in the Scottish camp in the north of England, on the retreat of Douglas and Murray, in 1327. Froissart Histoire et Chronique, T. c. 19. In the account of the Iri'h raths. &c in Gough’s Camden, III. p. 483, 484, it is alleged, that a'l the crater tumuli have been kitchens for this kind of cookery. Some of them may have been so employed ; there is one on Blakey moor that has been used as a cockpit ; but they cannot have been made for any such purpose. Would piles have been raised with such labour. 078 STATISTICAL SURVEY. habitations of man, every thing in their appearance becomes intelligible : the dusters in the interior are the ruins of ancient towns or villages, differing in their form according to the fashion of different ages or tribes; and the lines along the hills are extensive chains of posts, or watch-towers, to guard against the approach of an enemy from the plains, and might serve occasion- ally as summer habitations. The construction of the huts which have stood on these spots may be easily conceived. A hole was dug in the ground to form the lower part, and the earth and stones cast out in dig- ging it were usually placed around as a wall ; this wall was surmounted with poles or long boughs of trees meeting at the top, like a cone or bee-hive, above which were thrown smaller branches, or perhaps hay or straw, and a covering of sods over all, to keep out the rain; a hole being left on one side, to serve the tt i pie purpose of a door, a window, and a chimney. The fire was placed in the centre of the floor, and some heaih or grass strewed around it, lining the inside of the hut, furnished the rude inhabitants with seats by dnv, and beds by night. The vacant space, in the centre of the broader towns, might facilitate the communication between the opposite sides, and be a place of security for cattle, &c. Probably each station was encircled with palisades, or some kind of wooden barrier; and as most of them seem to have been originally surrounded with wood, the growing ior an end which might be as well served with the simplest holes, and even without any holes at all ? For a similar reason, as well as other considerations, it is clear, that the pits in our district cannot be mere boijiug places. ANTIQUITIES. 679 trees and bushes would materially assist in fortifying the place. In the singular station on Danby moor, the low walls inclosing the streets were probably crown- ed with palisades, and some tern poi ary barrier with a gate in it would be placed at each end; which barrier might be shifted on the erection of any new huts. Here the poles or boughs, for the roofs, would require to be higher than at the other stations, the huts having no walls round them. The two enclosures in the val- ley might contain the cattle belonging to the tribe, or tribes, on either side. The druidical remains, at. this and other stations, are the places of worship, and the houes the cemeteries; the latter being gradually in- creased in size, as well as in number, by the accumu- lating remains of successive generations The singular houe at the Danby station, may have been a tribunal; and the circular depressions on the Scamridge houes may have served for altars, being shallow, and neatly lined with stone. The large pit at the Harewood-Dale station, seems to have been the residence of the chief, a remark which will apply also to a singular pit at the Stone Hags : at any rate this has been the case with the circular enclosure at the Danby moor town, where the head of the tribe has had a large house surrounded by a wall, and not sunk in the ground. It would be vain to look for the remains of palisades, or of roofs, among these ruins ; and we can scarcely expect in such huts any works of art: the charcoal of the fires in them is almost the only imperishable article to be expected, and the discovery of this has fully confirmed 680 STATISTICAL SURVEY. the suppositions here advanced. On digging at the Egton Grange station, remains of charcoal were ob- served in the centre of almost every one of the pits examined, and in some there were fjund stones disco- loured by the fire. The pits are so nearly in their original form, that in general the charcoal was turned up in the first spade-full. Were the other stations ex- amined in a similar way, the same discovery would be made, except where the form of the pits has been destroyed. In investigating the antiquity of these singular remains, it is scarcely necessary to notice that the pits at Westerdale existed before (he year 1200, and that even then their origin was unknown ; for, the obvious connexion of these ancient villages with the houes and druidical stones, carries back their date to a period prior to the introduction of Christianity; and since they cannot with any propriety be ascribed to the Danes or the Saxons, we must view them as ancient British towns * the abodes of the Brigantes, who dwelt here at the arrival of the Romans, and perhaps of other tribes who lived here before them. Some of these towns, and lines of defence, have probably ex- isted above 2000 years : others may have been built since the Roman invasion, particularly the towns at Stone Hags and Scamridge, where the use of stones, and the oblong form of the buildings, indicate an ap- proximation to the Roman architecture. * Under this name they are marked in the Map by a cluster of little ovals at each station. Some of the principal tumuli were in- tended to be marked by little circles ; but the engraver has not in every instance preserved this distinction. ANTIQUITIES. 681 These simple huts were by no means peculiar to the tribes inhabiting our district: remains of a similar kind are found in other quarters of Yorkshire, and in various parts of Britain and Ireland, though they have seldom attracted much notice.* We learn, indeed, from the testimony of Csesar, Tacitus, Dion Cassius, Strabo, and other ancient writers, that such huts, and such towns, were thecommon habitations of the ancient Britons, and of the Gauls, Germans, and other barba- rous nations. f And we need not wonder that our rude ancestors should dwell in such hovels, when we find the same kind of conical or oval buildings used at this day among savage tribes ; some of whom, like the ancient Britons, have the lower part of their bee-hive dwellings sunk deep into the ground. § * There are pits apparently of the same kind, on Whorl hill in Cleve- laud, and on Barrnby moor, 12 miles from York, a little to the right of the Hull road. The Scotch pits on Cowton moor, near Northallerton, have perhaps the same origin, though tradition connects them with the battle of the Standard. At Saludy in Bedfordshire, about 20 acres of land are lying in holes and hillocks. Gough’s Camden, I p.328 There are holes in the heath near some of the tumuli at the Curragh of Kil- dare, in Ireland. Ibid III. p. 483. Some of the ancient earth-houses still remain in Cornwall, and in the western isles of Scotland. Henry’s Hist. I p 317. I have recently heard of a cluster of pits, like those on our moors, discovered at Kildrummy, in Aberdeenshire. Above all, the Pen Pits near Stourton, noticed by Sir Richd. Colt Hoare, in Ins History of Wiltshire (which I did not hear of till our researches were closed), furnish a striking specimen of these ancient remains. + See the passages alluded to judiciously collected by Dr. Henry, in his re- marks on the houses of the ancient Britons. Hist, of Britain, I. p 317, 318, 319. Csesar and Strabo concur in stating, that the British towns consisted of rude hovels in the midst of fortified woods. Strabo says of the Gauls: “ They build their houses of wood, in the form of a cir- cle, with lofty tapering roofs:” and, according to Caesar, the British houses were like those of Gaul. § See the description of a town in Terra del Fuego, in Cook’s First Voyage, B. I. Ch. 5 : of the huts in Van Diemen’s Land, examined by Capt. Furneaux; Cook’s Second Voyage, B. I. Ch. 7 : of the houses on Easter Island, some of which 4 s 682 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Here let us pause, and reflect on the wonderful transformation which our country lias undergone, since these interesting ruins were the abodes of our ances- tors. Look back on the state of this district at the distance of 18 centuries, and see what a picture it pre- sents! — the coast dreary and unfrequented ; the valleys choked up with woods and thickets, the haunts of wild beasts; the savage inhabitants bstt a few degrees su- perior to the tenants of the forest; frequenting, like them, the recesses of the wilderness, or the skirts of the mountains; dwelling in wretched hovels, where large families were huddled together half-naked, like beasts in their dens;* unskilled in any art, except war and hunting; ignorant of science and literature; and strangers to all religion, except the dark superstitions are partly underground; Ibid. B II. Ch. 8 : of the houses in New Caledonia; Ibid. B. III. c. 9: of the houses in Oonalashka, whose foundations are oblong pits; Cook’s Last Voyage, B. IV. Ch 11; and those of Kamtschatka; Ibid. B. VI. c 7 : and of the huts of the Caffres and other tribes in South Africa; Barrow’s Travels, I. p. 199, &c. Campbell’s Travels, Appendix, No 1 Ch. 3. The holes in the sides of the mountains at Owhy hee bear some analogy to the Cleveland lines; Cook’s Last Voyage, B. V. Ch. 4 — It appears from Pennant’s T o U r (Vol. II. p 216 ), that conical huts, formed like the huts that have been on our moors, but not sunk in the ground, are still used as sheelins, or summer habitations of the peasants, in the island of Jura, one of the Hebrides. * Caesar slates that among the Britons it was customary for every 10 or 12 men, and these the nearest relations, to have their wives in common De Bello Gall. A 7 . 14. Dion Cassius describes the Caledonians as naked and barefooted, living in t( nls, and having their wives in common. Xiphil Epit. p. 339. Perhaps these authors were mistaken ; bur, if, as is probable, several families, chiefly relations, were crowded into the same hut, it was very natural to suppose that they had their wives in common. — The huts on our moors may be supposed to bare been deserted, when the Romans had taught the natives to build bet- ter habitations elsew here; or, if they continued to be inhabited during the Roman period, they would be abandoned on the irruptions of the Piets and Scots. ANTIQUITIES. 683 and bloody idolatries of the Druids! Compare with this frightful spectacle the present state of the same territory — the pla ns and dales smiling with cultivation, and graced with commodious buildings, furnished with the productions of art, and all the conveniences of life; the sea-coast exhibiting in most places verdant slopes and fertile fields, and here and there a populous town, where convenience and elegance, taste and grandeur are combined, and, where arts, sciences, and commerce flourish above all, the inhabitants, both of town and country, enjoying not only the sweets of civ Iized society, but the invaluable blessings of Chris- tianity. If our hearts are not altogether callous, the striking contrast must awaken emotions of wonder, gratitude, and praise. II. Trenches, camps, forts, and military ways — The district abounds with military antiquities, indica- tions of warlike exploits achieved here in the ages of barbarity and bloodshed : almost every height has been the site of an encampment, and every plain a field of battle. Our moors, in all directions, are intersected with trendies, intended to ward off the attacks of an enemy. Some of these trenches are deep and strong; in many instances they are single, in others double, and in some triple; in general, the agger, or rampart, belonging to them, is formed merely by the earth thrown out of the ditch, but very frequently we find it surmounted by a parapet of upright stones. Some of these lines are extended to a great length, dividing one part of a moor or hill from another ; but in general 4 s 2 684 STATISTICAL SURVEY. they obstruct narrow passes, where they reach from one morass to another, or one slack to another; or they cross the projecting points of hills, cutting off those elevated points, so as to render them a kind of camps. Almost all the lofty headlands that project into the vale of the Esk, on the south, have their points thus fortified, especially where these points have only a narrow ridge, or isthmus, to connect them with the principal moor. In some instances, the isthmus is cut in two places, at an interval of 2 or 3 furlongs; as we see on the ridge which terminates at Castleton, and on that wh ch separates Glasedale from Egtcn Grange ; on which last it is observable, that the higher trench is strengthened with a parapet consisting of a double row of uptight stones, while the lower has only a ram- part of earth. The trench between the upper part of Dauby Dale and Little Fryop is double at the end next Dauby, and single towards Fryop; having pro- bably been left unfinished. These military remains are too numerous to be particularised.* Of those which are nearest Whitby, I may notice a triple trench, 70 feet over, crossed by the Scarborough road, on the moor bey ond Normanby ; and another triple trench, 80 feet over, in the same direction, half a mile south of John’s cross: the 3 ramparts of the latter are strengthened with stone parapets, those of the former are piain. Some others will fall to be noticed in con- nexion with the camps. It is difficult to determine, in what age, or by what people, these lines were formed; but as there * Several of them are laid down on the Map by an appropriate mark. ANTIQUITIES. 685 are generally druidical remains near them, as well as numbers of tumuli, probably the graves of such as fell in attacking or defending them, they belong most likely to the Brigantes, and other ancient British tribes. To them we may safely ascribe a great proportion, at least, of the plain trenches, and the whole of those that have stone parapets.* To the same people I would assign some singular camps, generally square, having stone walls similar to the parapets now mentioned, but without any trench. The walls, or ramparts, of these camps, are formed of double or triple rows of large upright stones, with numbers of smaller stones filling up the interstices be- tween the rows. Some camps of this description are found in a place called Crown End, on the north-east anffle of the hill between Westerdale and Basedale. There is one 150 feet square, with a gate towards the east; another 200 feet long by 130 broad ; and others of various shapes, much larger in dimensions, but with less perfect walls. Perhaps some of the latter may have been enclosures for the cattle of the tribe that encamped here ; yet their mutilated state may be other- wise accounted for, as vast quantities of the stones must have been carried off. Tumuli of various de- scriptions are scattered around. Another cluster of the same kind of camps was discovered in Little Fryop, about a mile to the south of Danby castle. They are 3 in number, each near 200 feet square, rising one * The Britons, in their wars with the Romans, encamped on mountains, where they fortified themselves with ramparts of stpne. tacit. Annal. XII. 33, 35. 636 STATISTICAL SURVEY. above another, on a sloping bank facing the east, but not directly in a line. To remedy the declivity of the ground, (he upper part of each camp has been lower- ed, and the lower part raised, so as to make the sur- face of each nearly level. In the middle camp, not far from (he east wall, is a circular enclosure, 15 or 16 feet diameter, formed by upright stones: tins has pro- bably been the tent of the chief. Many stones base been carried off from these camps, yet their form is very discernible ; and some faint traces of oilier en- closures, or perhaps of druidical remains, are seen near the spot. The low Bride stones on Sleights moor, near the verge of the cliffs above E-kdale Side, appear to be (he remains of a similar camp, above HQ feet square; but in so mutilated a state dial we only meet with a great number of straggling upright stones, (lie remnants of demolished walls. Along with these re- mains may he classed another camp, nearly square, being 190 ft. by 150, situated on the south end of a ridge or low hill, near the Hole of llorcum. Like the Fryop camps, it has been lowered at the upper part to make it level, so that the ground next adjoin- ing, on the north, is higher than the camp. On each of the other sides is a steep d clivity which seems to have superseded the use of wails; or perhaps, though there are no stone ramparts, the place may have been fortified with wood, which has abounded in the neigh- bourhood. The principal entrance has been from the south, where we find the traces of a road winding up file hill. On the east border of the camp, along the ANTIQUITIES. 687 verge of a steep cliff, we find a number of pits, similar to those at the Scamridge station, the foundations i f huts that have either contained the families of some of the warriors, or the sutlers attending their camp It is observable, that this camp is over against a small Roman camp on Levisham moor, little more than a mile distant, and that the vestiges of an ancient road from the Roman camp to the ridge o si which this camp stands, but considerably to the north of it, are very discernible. From this circumstance, as well as the square form, it is not unlikely, that all the camps now enumerated may belong to the Romanized Britons.* The round co/nps, or strengths, which are not numerous in this quarter, are probably more ancient; being analogous to the round pits, and the crater houes.b One of these circular forts is within the plea- sure grounds of the Earl of Mulgrave, beside Foss Mill, about half a mile north-west from old Mulgrave castle. It is a large mound of earth, above 120 feet diameter at top, SO feet high on the east side, and near 40 on the west, where the ground is lower. The top is crowned with a low parapet of earth ; the de- scent on every side is steep § There is another round fort at Ciopton, about 200 yards to the west of the chapel, on a projecting point of the heights where the * The Rom. ins themselves, as we learn from Hygiims, ofte>: used stone in forming the vallum of their camp; Imt it is very clear that the camps now described are not Roman. + It is common to ascribe the round camps, or forts to the Danes ; hut t he Dmes over ran ibis district so rapidly, that they had neither lime nor occasion for electing fortifications. It may be questioned whether e\ en any of our trendies can be assigned to them. § '1 lie top was dug into some years aj-d to examine the materials; its original form is therefore a little altered. ,688 STATISTICAL SURVEY. chapel and chapel-yard are situated. It looks like a very large tumulus, and measures 150 feet over, in- cluding the height of its sloping sides, and the depth of a trench that encircles its base. Its height may ex- ceed 30 feet. The approaches towards it, from the chapel, have been altered, an old hall, the ruins of which are still discernible, having stood in that direc- tion ; from which the fort is called Hall garth hill ; but, in the opposite direction, towards the valley, we find a double ditch of great strength sweeping round the point of the hill, and another ditch round the loot of the hill, defending the approach from the plain. — These camps, or forts, are decidedly British. Perhaps we may ascribe to the same people the semicircular camp on Eston Nab, which is of much greater extent, and of a very different construction. This camp oc- cupies the highest part of an extensive insulated hill with an abrupt precipice on the north-west ; and the camp is formed by a semicircular trench, each end of which terminates at the brink of the precipice, the edge of which is the diameter of the circle, and the only defence of the camp on that side. As part of the cliff must have mouldered away, the camp has once been larger, but it never was a complete circle. The trench makes a sweep of 1060 feet, the length, of diameter, measured along the edge of the cliff, is ?50, and the greatest breadth, or semi-diameter, 350. The trench is single, but of great strength ; for, in some places the slope from the bottom of the ditch to the top ol the rampart (at an angle of 45.°) measures no ANTIQUITIES. 669 less than 28 feet, and the slope of the ditch outwards, 14 feet. There are 4 gates : that towards the east is 30 feet wide ; the rest are smaller, and not uniform. As Eston Nab, like many other Cleveland hills, has a row of round pits encompassing it on the north, about half-way up the hill, and as the form of the camp has not been dictated by necessity, we may infer that it has been originally a British work ; yet, from the strength and beauty of the trench and gates, I am disposed to think, that it has been subsequently occu- pied and improved by the Romans.* The military remains of the Romans constitute an interesting part of our antiquities. Some of the trenches upon the moors may fairly be ascribed to them ; especially the lines of Scamridge, which I am inclined to consider as an immense Roman camp, left unfinished. The name Oswj/'s Dikes has been given to these lines, and they might very possibly be used by Oswy, or other Northumbrian princes ;f but a view of the vast extent and strength of these trenches may convince us, that they were not originally the work of those petty kings. The strongest part of the lines begins from the edge of Troutsdale, about a mile to the west of Basinhoue. Here we find 5 large ditches, with their ramparts, forming a barrier about 200 feet over, pro- ceeding toward the south, or south-west, along the eastern edge of a dry plain. This plain has a declivity on the east, towards a narrow dale between it and * Remaius of other round camps, hut in a less perfect state, are found in the district, f See p. 38 — The principal Scamridge lines are traced on the Map, but not very correctly. 4 T 690 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Basinhoue, and a single trench, or covered way, lead- ing from the lines down to a watering-place in the dale, near Cockmoor Hall, is very discernible. The 5 trenches proceed nearly in one direction for about a mile and a half, or upwards, when reaching the brink of another dale that descends towards Ebberston, the principal lines turn towards the right across the dale, while two trenches diverge towards the left, and run along the east bank of the daie, passing the farmhouse of Scamridge, and ending near the brow of the hill above Ebberston, about a mile and a half from the place where they leave the main trenches. The latter, from the place where these two lines diverge from them, are only 4 in number; and after crossing the dale, the outer trench soon leaves off abruptly : the 3 remaining trenches proceed in a westerly direction about a mile further, and also terminate abruptly, in a dale that opens towards Ebberston church. To the west, or north-west, of this extensive range of lines, we find another, commencing also on the brink of Troutsdale, near High Scamridge, above a mile, or more, from the first lines. They consist of 4 vast ditches and as many ramparts, measuring together above 150 feet over; but after advancing for some distance, their number is reduced to 3 : these 3 trenches proceed westward more than a mile, and reaching a slack called Gindale, 2 trenches turn towards the south, and after proceed- ing about half a mile leave off abruptly like the former lines; while a single trench runs down the valley a short way, and also makes a sudden stop. Not far ANTIQUITIES. 691 from the termination of the 2 lines, is a covered way leading down into the dale, similar to that at Cockmoor Hall. Besides the gates opening toward these covered ways, there are other gates in different parts of the trenches. The neatness of these gates, the rectilineal direction of the trenches, their great strength and beauty, and their similarity to works decidedly Roman, particularly at the angles, concur in favouring the opi- nion, that these lines are an imperfect Roman camp, intended to have been completed by lines continued across the south part, from the abrupt ending of the 3 trenches on the Ebberston side to that of the 2 Gin- dale trenches, if not also by a northern barrier running along the margin of Troutsdale.* My opinion is confirmed by comparing these trenches with others that meet them, which are not the work of the Romans, but apparently of their allies. From near the termi- nation of the two trenches in Gindale, a single ditch, with its rampart, inferior both in size and in execution, proceeds obliquely in a south-west direction along the brink of the dale for more than a mile, and ends not far from Allerston. Along the inside of this trench, are round pits, at regular intervals, the foundations of huts where the picquets that guarded the lines have * The size of the camp, had it been finished, would have exceeded that of the double consular camp of Polybius, as well as that of the camp for 3 legions on the Hygiuian plan. Vide Schelium in Hyginum et Polybium de castris, p. 318, &c. Roy’s Military Antiquities, Plate V, and XLI. But there were sometimes 5 or more legions in one camp. Schel. in Hyginum, &c. p. 29. Besides, the nature of the ground might render it advisable to make the entrenchments more capacious than was necessary. The Romans might have a large army •here in their wars with the Brigantes ; yet the plan of constructing this spacious camp seems to have been abandoned, when more than half finished. 4 T 2 692 STATISTICAL SURVEY. lodged. From the south-west, end of this trench a faint line has been traced on the moor, pointing to- wards the termination of the 3 trenches above Ebber- ston church; from which we may infer, that this has been meant for a secondary camp, of a triangular form; the trench with pits being one side, the line faintly traced, but never formed, the second, and the south lines of the great camp, also not formed though traced in some parts, the third. A complete camp of this very form is found on the east side : it is bounded by the 3 great trenches which end above Ebberston church, on the north-west, and by the 2 trenches that diverge from them towards Ebberston village, on the east; and the third side is formed by a single trench of another construction, passing between them ; pro- ceeding from the double line exactly at Scamridge, and joining the triple line about 100 yards above its termination. Near the middle of this single line is a gate, having a pit on each side within, the ancient habitations of those who guarded it. It is still more observable, that within this triangular camp are the two pyriform houes formerly described, with the ad- jacent range of pits; the north end of which comes close to the ramparts of the Roman camp, and two or three of the pits seem almost to encroach on the trenches. May we not then suppose, that these pits may have been the huts or tents of some Roman auxiliaries; especially as both the pits and the houes are of a peculiar structure? — Other trenches, probably British, are found in the neighbourhood ; some on the ANTIQUITIES. 693 moor north of the great camp, but more opposite Cockmoor Hall, where the bank beyond the watering place is fortified from top to bottom with trenches ex- tending about half a mile, from 12 to 20 in number, but small and irregular.'* Perhaps they have been oc- cupied by a hostile British force, while the Romans were encamped within the Scamridge lines; but it is more likely that they are of greater antiquity; especially as there is a small Roman camp, 160 feet square, in the same direction, 2 or 3 miles beyond Basinhoue, and that must have been an outpost to the great camp. The small square camps on Seamer moor were pro- bably other outposts, connected with this grand en- trenchment. f The most beautiful and entire Roman camps in our district are those of Cawthorn, placed in a com- manding situation, on the brow of a hill half-way be- tween that village and Newton. In magnitude they are much inferior to the Scamridge entrenchment, but in beauty and regularity they may vie with any in Britain. Their form and relative situation will be best * It is observable, that these narrow trenches are less ancient than some large houes at the foot of the bank ; as appears by examin- ing those parts where the trenches come in contact with the houes. f There were once 3 small square camps on different parts of this moor : one only remains, adjoining to the road from Scarborough to Ayton, where there are also several trenches, some of them double, crossing the moor in various directions. Some of these trenches ap- pear to be British, particularly those near the large tumuli at the beacon. The author is sorry that he has not surveyed the Seamer trenches so minutely as to give a correct description of them; but they are much inferior to the Scamridge lines. In most of the latter, the perpendicular height of each rampart has been 8 or 10 feet, and each ditch with its vallum may measure near 40 feet over. Spear-heads, an$ other antiquities, are said to have been found in the Scamridge camp; but I have not seen them. STATISTICAL SURVEY. learned from the annexed plan, laid down from correct admeasurement. The camps are 4 in number. That marked A is the largest; it contains an area of 560 feet by 550, measured from the top of the vallum on the one side to the top of that on the other. The trench is single, hut very sirong, there being in someplaces- a slope of near20 ft. from the top of the agger t& the bottom of the foss. which, being of the form which Hygitius eallsyas- iigata, has a siope of 6 or 8 feet outwards, to the surface of the adjacent §| ground. The 4 gates, , a m belonging to a regular \? ml mt Roman camp, are found' f ffil in their proper places; ‘iili the praetorian or front gate being on the south, the decuman gate open- ing towards the precipice ^jon the north, the principalis 'll dextra on the west, and the principalis sinistra on the east The latter opens info camp B, whieh was probably the camp of the allies, being less regular in its form than camp A, and enclosed by a weaker trench, except on the west side, which is formed by the east side of camp A. Camp B has only two gates, tiie prae- torian and the decuman, besides that which communicates with A: and it is less extensive than A, being only 480 feet from east to west, across the middle. To the- west of thesetwo camps are two others, C and IV. The most westerly is camp D, which is smalleF within than any of the rest, being only 400 feet bv 360, from vallum ANTIQUITIES. 69S to vallum ; but it is much superior in strength and beauty, being fortified by a double trench of excellent workmanship, above 70 feet over. The inner foss and its vallum are nearly of the same strength as those of camp A; the agger between the inner foss and the outer is lower than the inner vallum, but much broader. The decuman gate is wanting, the steepness of the cliff behind rendering it useless. Clove lo this camp on the east, is the singular camp, C, of a form nearly oval, about 850 feet long, and 320 broad, where its breadth is greatest, surrounded by a weak trench like that of camp B, and having 3 gates, all on the east side. This is another auxiliary camp, and may be supposed to have contained the allies belonging to the troops in camp D, though from the form and aspect of the gates, and its having no direct communication with D, it seems to have more connexion with A, from which it is distant above 300 feet. Perhaps the camps A, B, and C, have been formed about the same time, and D, which is on an improved plan, and looks more recent, has been subsequently added. The great dif- ference in the gates corroborates this idea. The gates of camp D run out straight, with a short ditch on each side joining the inner/oss with the outer, but without any cover in front, the entrance having perhaps been defended by a wooden barrier: the gates of A and B (the common gate excepted) are covered by two seg- ments of a circle, one passing outwards and another inwards, making it necessary to enter obliquely; and the gates of C have a single outside cover, like a 696 STATISTICAL SURVEY. quadrant, leaving an oblique entrance from the north, on which side each of them has a hollow, or pit, in the trench, perhaps the station of the guards. It is remarkable that no gates resembling those of these 3 camps are known to exist in Britain, except those of the Roman camp at Dealgin Ross, in Stra- thern, in Scotland. This camp is of much larger di- mensions than camp A, but resembles it greatly in the form of the gates; only the gates of the Dealgin Ross camp have an additional cover without, opposite the oblique entrance. General Roy supposes that the Strathern camp was that of the 9th legion, where it was attacked so fiercely by the Caledonians during Agricola’s 6th campaign, in A. D. 83 ; and he thinks, with good reason, that a detachment of the same legion must have encamped at Cawthorn. The camp at Dealgin Ross, like A, has had a secondary camp near it, supposed to have contained the auxiliary troops. There is another point of resemblance between that camp and camp A, not attended to by the general: he observed an agger, cutting off the north-east cor- ner of the Strathern camp; and it is remarkable, that the north-east corner of camp A is cut of! in the very same form. What purpose was served by this angular enclosure cannot be determined, but its existence in both camps strengthens the idea that they were formed by the same troops ; and if these troops were those of the 9th legion, we may infer, that camps A and B, and perhaps C, were formed in the time of Agricola; for we hear no more of the 9th legion in Britain after that ANTIQUITIES. 697 period, and its weak remains are thought to have been incorporated with the 6th legion which was stationed at York, a detachment of which most probably erected camp D at a later era.* If the 4 Cawthorn camps were all occupied at one time, they must have contained a considerable army ; for, according to Hyginus, a cohort might be encamped in a space 150 feet square; and therefore each camp might contain, on an average, about 5 cohorts, or half a legion, allowing a space for the intervallum, the streets, the prcetorium, &c. : and the whole would accommodate two legions ; or rather, one Roman legion, with an equal number of auxiliaries. f * General Roy considers the agger that cuts off the angle of the Strathern camp as a road from the adjoining camp (supposed to have been afterwards converted into a station called Victoria), but had he observed that this supposed road stops short at the eastern vallum of that camp, and noticed the same kind of agger in our camp, he must have altered his opinion. Mr. Horsley’s plan of the Strathern camp (Brit. Rom. p. 44) does not represent this angular agger as a road. The general, after describing the peculiar form of the Cawthorn camp and that of Dealgin Ross, makes this remark: “ Why, then, may we not suppose, when the ninth legion happened to be separated from the main body of the army, that this was the particular method they made use of in fortifying the gates of their camps, and that the remains of this legion were, on some occasion or other, encamped in this part of Yorkshire, after they had finally left Scotland, and probably even be- fore the arrival of the sixth, which had the title of victrix, and whose stated quarters were at York.” Military Antiqu. p. 64, 65. The general’s Plan of the Cawthorn camps (Plale XI) is incorrect, espe- cially in regard to the form of camp B, and the position of camp C. The Plan in Drake’s Eboracum, at p. 36, is much less correct. In our Plan there is a small mistake in the form of camp A ; its greatest breadth being from east to west, and not as in the plan from south to north, f The Roman legion varied considerably, at different periods. In the time of Polybius, it consisted of 4200 foot and 300 horse; and had usually a body of allies attached to it, consisting of 4200 foot, and 900 horse. According to Hyginus, a legion consisted of above 5000 troops: it was divided into 10 cohorts, each of which contained 480, besides a cohort of vexillarii, also consisting of 480, or as some 4 u 698 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Faint traces of the prcetorium, &c. may be seen in some of the camps, especially in camp A. A few tumuli are scattered around, chiefly in front of the camp : perhaps they are the sepulchres of the allies, rather than of the legionary troops. From the great strength of camp D, it cannot be reckoned a temporary camp, but must come under the designation castra stativa, or standing camp, and the same remark may be extended to camp A, which is too strong for a temporary entrenchment: yet, as the place would be very cold winter quarters, both were probably (estiva , summer camps. Connected with these, as with the Scamridge entrenchment, are seve- ral small camps, or outposts ( castra exploraiorum ), where a century, a manipule,* or a larger detachment, was usually stationed. One of these is on Levisham moor, in an elevated situation, opposite the British square camp formerly noticed. It measures 165 feet east and west, by 150 south and north; besides the breadth of the vallum and foss, 30 feet over. It is very strong, except on the south, where a large gap appears instead of the gate, the trench having been think, 600 ; making in all 5280, or 5400. Each cohort was subdi- vided into 6 centuries, of 80 each ; and each century seems to have been arranged into 5 watches of 16 each ; and each of these consisted of 4 quaternions, that is, four fours. Each century was also divided into 8 contubernia, of 10 men each, who lived in one tent; but a tent accommodated only 8 persons, 2 from each being always on guard. Sometimes the 1st cohort was double, containing 960. The vexillarii guarded the standards. Schel. in Hyginum, p. 2, 3, 4, 12, 13, 14, &c. Roy’s Milit. Antiqu. p. 35 — 38, &c. Probably the number usually encamped at Cawthorn would be less than half a legion. * A manipule (manipulus) consisted of two centuries; so that 3 manipules made a cohort. Among the more ancieut Romans, the word manipulus was synonymous with contubernium. Schel, in Hyg. p. 4. ANTI Q VI TIES. 699 left unfinished, or rather having been since demolished. The workmanship is evidently Roman : but a few paces to the north-west we find a lesser camp that may have contained a detachment of the allies. A kind of covered way passes from this camp towards a watering place on the south. Many trenches, probably British, cross this moor in various places ; and between this Roman outpost and Levisham, but higher up the moor, we find a weak camp, above 800 feet long and 400 broad, of a form approaching to oval. Some other camps, perhaps outposts, once existed on Pickering moor, where many deep trenches are still seen.* Perhaps several other Roman outposts on our moors have been destroyed. One is now demolishing which for many ages has graced the brow of the hill beyond Wapley, on the road to Guisborough, 14 miles from Whitby. It measures, or rather 1 must now say measured, 215 feet east and west, by 185 smth and north ; with a trench near 30 feet over. The large outpost, or camp, on Lease-rigg, will fall to be noticed presently. One important particular, relating to theCavvthorn camp D, remains to be mentioned: through this camp passes the Roman military road, which commencing at York, the ancient Eboracum, terminated at Duns- ley, near Whitby. This road seems to have escaped the observation of antiquaries till near a century ago, when it was brought into notice, chiefly by Thos. S. Robinson of Pickering, Esq. who made it known to * It is said that in levelling some of these works, many round stones were found, like parts of a column, having holes in the end, as if to connect the joints. Hinderwell’s Hist 8vo. p. 23 l have some suspicion that these round stones were querns, or ancient mill-stones . 4 u 2 700 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Roger Gale, Esq. and to Mr. Drake. The latter de- scribes it in his Eboracum.* The road is supposed to have issued from York at or near Monk-bar , and to have proceeded towards Malton nearly in the line of the present public road. From Malton, or perhaps about a mile to the south of New Malton, it turned a little to the right, and passed by Broughton and Amer- by near App!eton-le-street,f and crossing the Rye about Newsam bridge, went on to Bargh, where there was a small camp. From thence it advanced to Caw- thorn, and passing through that village, where part of it was visible some years ago, it has proceeded nearly to the brow of the hill, and then turned eastward to the camps, where we perceive it very distinctly, ap- proaching the camps from the west, and passing di- rectly through camp D, of which it forms the via principalis : after which, as the reader may see in the plan, it passes by the north end of camp C, and bend- ing northward descends the hill, in a slack opposite the interval between camps C and A.§ * P. 35, 36. Mr. Robinson’s letter to Mr. Gale concerning this road and *he camps, is dated, 10 Oct. 1724. Reliquiae Galeanae, M.S.S. I. p. 149. In the same volume, p. 267 — 274, is a curious paper, by the Rev. Mr. Conyers, on the aboriginal form of human habitations; containing many interesting remarks, coinciding with my views of the ancient British towns. f Places that have le-street added to their names are almost always found on some Roman road ; the term stra- tum, or street, being applied to each of these military ways. As Appleton-le-street is a little out of the line of our road, and Barton-le- street, in the same quarter, still further, it is likely that a Roman road has passed from Malton through these villages towards Hamble- ton hills, w-here there are vestiges of a large Roman camp, and from thence into the plain of Cleveland. § As the road forms the via ■principalis of camp D, as no paved way leading into the other camps is discernible, and as a corner of camp C appears to have been altered, to allow the road to pass it, we may infer, that the road is more recent ANTIQUITIES. 701 On this side of the camps, the traces of the Roman road are far more considerable, though it has suffered much from the hands of modern Goths. Its general direction, as may be seen in the Map, is nearly N.E. or rather N.N.E. On the steep bank, descending from the camps, it is quite obliterated, but we soon meet with some vestiges of it on the moor, and after losing it in some cultivated fields adjoining to a farm-house, we find it beyond them in great perfection, running nearly in a straight line towards a hamlet named Stape ; in descending to which it again becomesjnvisible, but is presently recovered on the other side. At Stape it crosses the present road between Pickering and Egton, and then, running nearly parallel to that road, it passes by Mauley cross, which is 175 feet to the right, and continues very perceptible, except in a few spots, for several miles ; descending a gently sloping hill, passing through a small enclosure near a house on the Egton road, crossing Wheeldale beck, and rising on the op- posite moor, where the Egton road diverges from it to the left. The vicinity of that road, which crosses and re-crosses it two or three times, has proved highly than camps A, B, and C, and that camp D is coeval with it, and has been one of the stations on it. I may observe, that each of the gates of this camp, and of the other 3, is from 25 io 30 feet wide. — The Cawlhorn camps are sometimes called the barrows’ camps, from the tumuli near them. In some modern descriptions of them we are told, that a house in the village still retains the name Bibo, supposed to be derived from its having been a tippling house for the Roman soldiers. On diligent enquiry at natives of the place, 1 cannot find that any house in Cawthorn has been so called for at least 70 years. I wonder how this fable could arise; for how can it be supposed that a public- house should retain its Roman name amidst successive and long deso- lations, while the Roman names of all the towns and villages in the district have sunk into oblivion P 702 STATISTICAL SURVEY. pernicious, for, to mend that contemptible by-road, our venerable military causeway has been unmercifully lorn up, wherever the two roads come together. When Mr. Drake lost the Roman road among the long heath, lie found it again by riding across, when his horse’s feet struck on the stones; but now it is rather to be found by stumbling in the holes from whence the stones have been torn. Nor does our causeway escape from danger on leaving the public road: it meets with a more cruel fate on Wheeldale moor, where, to provide materials for enclosing an intake, (he whole pavement has been recently eradicated. It is almost enough to break the heart of an antiquary, to see a monament that has withstood the ravages of time for 16 centuries, wantonly destroyed to erect a paltry dike, when ether materials could have been got in the vicinity at nearly I be same expense. Near this barbarous intake , I saw a waggon inscribed Go/Aland,* and truly the name seemed very appropriate. — Between Wheeldale moor and Hazlehead, the road is lost in the valley, but we discover it again at Haziehead, passing in front of the bouses, and along the green. In ascending to these bouses, we find in the line of the road many fragments of bricks, probably the remains of a Roman building. After crossing the green, and passing through a small enclosure, the road goes along the moor, where it is very conspicuous, till it is again cut off by enclosures in which, however, some vestiges of its track may be observed. It disappears in crossing Grain beck, be= yond which it has turned to the right towards July * For Godeland, ANTIQUITIES. 703 Park,* where we find a portion of it about 40 yards west of the houses, pointing towards an enclosure through which it has passed. In the foundation of the western wall of this enclosure is a stone with an in- scription, which only began to be noticed a few years ago, and of which no account, as far as I know, has yet been published. The following is a representation of the stone.f As the upper part of the letters is gone, a thin portion of the stone having scaled off*, it is difficult to say with certainty what they have been ; but I am in- clined to think, that the inscription has not contained any more letters, and that we are to read it thus: LE.VI.VI.L.VEX. or in full ; Legionis sextas victri- cis quinquaginta \ExiLiAmi=FiJty vexillary soldiers of the sixth legion, the victorious. The stone must have been placed on or near the road, to record the * It is not unlikely that the road has divided at Grain beck, one part making a slight bend towards the left, and the other towards the right, and both parts meeting again on Lease-rigg. Vestiges, or supposed vestiges, of the causeway, have been found in both lines, and hence both are laid down on the Map. f The stone is 3f feet long, 2 ft. high, and 2 ft. broad ; it is of an irregular form, having probably never been squared. The letters are 4 inches in height, exclusive of what has been broken off; and the length of the inscription is 2 feet. These proportions are not strictly observed in the drawing; but it gives a sood representation of the letters, except that the stalk of the 2nd letter should have been parallel to the 1st, 704 STATISTICAL SURVEY. formation of some part of it by these soldiers, or the erection of some building that has once stood on the spot.* The vexillary soldiers, or vexillation , were an honourable part of the legion, yet they were often employed in public works, and those of the 6th legion in particular, who built a great part of the wall of Antoninus, though perhaps not so much as the vexil- lation of the 20th legion. f The 6th legion was station- ed at York for many years, and must have had the principal share in the formation of this military way. * The name July Park has been derived by some from the Roman name Julius; but its legitimate derivation is from the name St. Julian’s, given to an ancient, castle that stood a little to the east, and a church or chapel near it. Yet the regular form of the site of that castle (80 yards by 60) makes it not improbable that it might be originally a Roman station, j- Horsley’s Brit. Rom. p 161, 162. Scotland, X IV, VII, &c. The vexillation of the 2nd legion built part of the wall of Severus, in which work several cohorts of that legion, and of the 6th legion, were employed Ibid. p. 128, 129. Some of the inscriptions recording such labours, especially those of the 6th legion, bear a strong resemblance to the July Park inscription. Ibid. Scotland, N- XVIII. Northumberland, N. LVI, CXI. Cumberland, N. XXIV, XXXIII. Yorkshire, N. IX. But most of all, Northumberland, N. XXI which reads thus; LEG. "\ I VI F. i. e. Legio sexta victrix fecit. Were we to suppose the 7th letter in our inscription an E, the latter part could be read EV. X; cvocuti dccem; but, besides the difficulty aris- ing from the smallness of the number, the evocati were exempted from all such labours. The apparent want of the E between the V and the X is no serious objection to the reading adopted; for it may have been over the V or united to it by a nexus, the traces of w hich may have disappeared when the upper part of the X scaled off. It is very com- mon to have the name of the legion before that of the particular cohort or company employed. Some think, from a passage in Hyginus, that the vexillarii of a legion amounted to 600 ; but Schelius, in his notes on that author (p. 40, 41.), considers them as only equal to a cohort, or nearly 500; in hich opinion he is supported by Tacitus; hence, 50 vexillarii would be exactly the number belonging to one cohort, if an equal division of this force belonged to each. We find MILITES VEXILL in one inscription. Scotland, N. XXL The LE for LEGIO is uncommon, the usual contraction being LEG.; but it is well known, that contracted words in Latin inscriptions assume a variety of forms. ANTIQUITIES. 70S Between July Park and Lease-rigg, few traces of the road are met with; but it has proceeded in that direction, and a hillock, named Castle Hill, nearly in the line, is perhaps the site of a fort. On Lease-rigg several portions of the causeway are visible ; and here, on an elevated part of the ridge, is a Roman camp of a rhomboidal shape, but with the east corner rounded away to suit the ground. The south-east part, being within an enclosure, is much defaced, but the whole camp has been nearly of the same extent as camp D at Cawthorn ; to which, however, it has been much inferior in strength, as well as beauty, being fortified only by a single trench. Yet, like that camp, and that of Bargh, it has been one of the stations on the road, which passes directly through it, and has no doubt formed, as at camp D, the via principalis* From this camp the road has descended down the ridge for a considerable distance, and then bent its course in a slanting direction, towards Growmond bridge. Here it has crossed the Esk, and some remains of it are seen on the west side of Growmond priory, where a consi- derable part of it was dug up about 15 years ago. From thence it has proceeded by Newbegin to Aislaby moor, where we find some traces of it, near the edge of the quarries, about a mile west of Aislaby. Here it is much defaced, having been used as a road to the quarries; yet sufficient vestiges remain to mark out its general direction. The last portion which we meet * A detachment of the allies may have here also encamped be- side the legionary troops ; for above the camp is the appearance of a lesser camp, with a weak trench, parallel to the south-west trench of the Roman camp, about 50 yards distant. 4 x 706 STATISTICAL SURVEY. with, is at the place where it has been crossed by the Guishorough road, above 100 yards below the 3rd mile-stone. As this fragment points towards Dunsley, and as the road was traced thither in the time of Drake, there can be no doubt that it led to Dunsley ; though it is probable, that a branch of it descended to Whitby. Having followed the road as far as it is visible, let us now glance at its construction. The foundation is usually a stratum of gravel or rubbish, over which is a strong pavement of stones, placed with their flattest side uppermost, and above these another stratum of gravel or earth, to fill up the interstices, and smooth the surface. To keep the road dry, the middle part has been made higher than the sides; and, to prevent the sides from giving way, they are secured by a bor- der of flat stones placed edgewise; without which, there is in some places a gutter on each side, to carry off the water. The stones used for the pavement and edging, are generally of the common sandstone found on the moors. The breadth of the road, where it is most perfect, is 16 feet, exclusive of the gutters. The elevation varies according to circumstances : in many places, the middle is 2 or 3 feet above the level of the adjacent surface. In general the road pursues a rec- tilineal course, at the same time avoiding marshes, precipices, and sudden descents. One observation was made in surveying it, which must not be omitted, as I do not know that it has ever been made before ; — in crossing any deep cut, or channel of a stream, the road does not pass where the banks are most sloping, but often where they are most steep ; breaking off ANTIQUITIES. 707 abruptly on the edge of one bank, and beginning again as abruptly on the edge of the opposite bank. This circumstance seemed unaccountable, till there was discovered in the middle of one of these cuts, near Wheeldale beck, a rude pile of stones, which, being placed exactly in the line of the road, must have served as a pillar to support the beams of a wooden bridge: and hence it appears, that the Romans, instead of fording the streams, threw wooden bridges over them, and that, where the breadth was great, the bridges had stone pillars to support them in the middle.* No ruins of stone bridges have been discovered; but, as there is a modern bridge in the line of the road, both at Newsam and at Growmond, it is not unlikely that the original bridges on these spots were Roman. Dunsley being the northern termination of this military way, it is natural to look here for a Roman station, or fort; and there is reason to think, that such a fort has stood on the eminence in the middle of the village, where Dunsley chapel was afterwards erected. Even in its present state, this eminence appears like the site of a Roman station ; and, though it is only about 100 feet square, we are to consider how much it has been mutilated for the sake of the materials. Besides, these materials, and the appearance of the * The stream immediately below the Cawthorn camps, from whence they were supplied with water, seems to have had such a bridge over it, — The road has probably had milKary pillars, but they are ail gone. Drake says, that he found one not far from the camps, placed in the midst of the causeway. Perhaps it was a stone erected for some other purpose since the Roman period; for the Romans would scarcely be so foolish as to set up their milestones in the middle of the road. On the moor above Stape there is an upright stone on one. side of the way, but it seems to form part of a line of boundary stones. 4X2 709 STATISTICAL SURVEY. north side, which has suffered most, may convince us that it is an artificial mount. No antiquities are known to have been found on the spot, yet the existence of a station at the end of the road can scarcely be questioned. Our coast has been defended by another Roman fort, the existence ot which is fully ascertained, from the discovery of a stone bearing an inscription, in- tended to record its erection. It has stood at a place called Ravenhill, on a high promontory named Peak, half-way between Whitby and Scarborough. The stone, which is now in the author’s possession, was dug up there at the founding of the late Capt. Child’s hall, in 1?74\ It was discovered in a heap of ruins, l)ing. above a yard below the surface, with the inscription on the nether side, in a fine state of preservation, ex- cept the 2nd letter of the last line, which was defaced by the end of the lever used in raising it. The fol- lowing is a correct draught of the stone.* au A 2 733 STATISTICAL SURVEY. strength, a notion which is favoured by the numerous trenches and houes in the vicinity.— In 1625, Henry Lord Danvers, then proprietor of the manor, was created earl of Danby. The title became extinct at his death; but was conferred, in 1674, on Thomas Osborne, lord Latimer, afterwards Duke of Leeds, ancestor to the present Duke.* Several other baronial mansions might have been noticed; as that of Harwood Dale, near the chapel ; that at Roxby, near Thornton, an ancient seat of the Cholmleys; and that at A} ton on the Derwent ;f but 1 proceed to the two principal castles in the district, Scarborough and Pickering. Pickering is the only place in our district that has been introduced among the fables of Geoffrey of Monmouth and his followers, who tell us that it was founded by a British king, named Peredurus, long before the birth of Christ § The connexion of * Danby belonged successively to the families of Brus, Tiiweng, Latimer, Neville, and Danvers. Catherine Parr, wife of John Lord Latimer, and afterwards the last queen of Henry VIII, is said to have resided here, before her elevation. Since the death of Danvers, Earl of Danby, the principal part of the lordship (with the manorial rights) has belonged to the ancestors of Lord X iscount Downe, the present proprietor. + Leland notices the castles, “or manor places,” of Ay ton, Wilton, and Roxby, in the following account of the country between Scarborough and Pickering: “From Scardcburg to Aiton a 3 Miles, wher cumming over Dancent I saw a Manor Place sumtyme longging to a Knight caullid Alton: now to the best of the Yevcrs [Evers~\. At this Manor Place is a lower or Pile. Theus to Brunston [Bromp- *o;i] a 3 or 4 Miles: and a 3. Miles to Wileton, wher is a Manor Place with a Tower longging to Cholmeley. This Cholmeley had much of one Hastinges (a Knight) Landes. This Cholmeley hath a Howse also at Rotiesby: and Cholmeley’ s Father that now is was as an Hedde Officer at Pykeringe, and setter up of his Name in those Quarters. Thens to Pickering, and moste of the Ground from Scar- deburg to Pykering was by Hille and Dale rneate plentifull of Corn and Grasse but litle Wood in sight.” Itin. I. p. 63, 64. § See Fabian’s Chronicle, Vol. I. Part II. Ch. 43. p. 32. Peredarus and Vigeniue ANTIQUITIES. 733 Pickering castle with the stories about Wade and his wife, affords a stronger presumption in favour of its high antiquity.* No Roman remains, as far as 1 know, have been discovered here; yet its situation favours the idea that it may have been a Roman post;f nor is it unlikely, that the circular mound on which the keep stood, might be originally a British fort.— When, or by whom, the present castle was built, is not known, but the round keep, of which there is no other instance in the district, bespeaks it to be on the early Norman plan ; and a curious Saxon arch in the west- ern wall, where there has perhaps been a postern gate, is another indication of its antiquity. It was probably erected by William Rufus, or his successor Henry I ; for Pickering was one of the manors which the con- queror retained in his own hands,§ and it belonged to the crown for many ages. It was crown property when Henry I granted his charter for founding the hermitage of Godeland and as a charter of king John, granted to the nuns of Wykeham, is dated at Pickering, Feb. 1st, 1201, the castle appears to have been erected prior to his reign, and to have been were joint kings : they succeeded their brother Elidurus, whom they deposed, A M. 4932, or as corrected in the Margin, A. M. 3693. They reigned together 7 years, after which Peredurus reigned alone 2 years more. * See p. 725. j- As we often find a line of towns running along the course of a Roman road, of which there is an instance in the Roman road which proceeded westward from Malton, so the existence of a line of towns from Cawthorn to Scarborough makes it probable that a vicinary way passed in this direction from the ancient Delgovitia to the coast. Pickering might be a post on this road, and Thornton, from its name, may be reckoned another. See p 7^2. Note. § See p. 83, 86, 88, 89. f See p. 361. Reg. Whitb. f. 52. Charlton, p. 75. 734 STATISTICAL SURVEY. occasionally a royal residence.* Henry III, near the close of his reign, gave the manor, castle, and forest, to his son Edmund, through whom the property de- scended to the Lancaster branch of the royal family; and though it afterwards reverted to the crown, it still forms a part of the dutchy of Lancaster. The castle and manor are now held by R. Hill, of Thornton, Esq. The castle of Pickering is on the north side of the town, in a pleasant and elevated situation, on the verge of a lime-stone rock, the steep cliffs of which are an excellent defence towards the north, the west, and the south-west It forms an irregular figure, above 500 feet from south-west to north-east, and 400 from south-east to north-west. The grand entrance, which is on the south-east, has a weak appearance; but it has no doubt been guarded by a barbican, or outwork, which, like some of the towers, has been w holly demo- lished. On a lofty circular mound, near the centre of the area, has stood the keep, or strong tower, a build- ing about 100 feet in diameter, of w hich some shapeless fragments only remain. The bank of the mound is very steep, and the deep foss that surrounds it adds much to its height and strength. In a line with the centre of the keep, and parallel to the south-east, or front, wall, a strong wall, and a foss before it, divide * Dugd. Mod. I. p. 915. Grose and others, not knowing, or not adverting to, the authorities now quoted, have slated, that Pick- ering does not occur in any known record, after Domesday, till the 32nd of Henry III, when Willin. lord D’Acre was made keeper of this castle. Wm. Lalirner obtained that office 7 years after. — During the reign of Edward II, after the attainder of Thomas, earl of Lan- caster, Henry Percy, earl of Northumberland, was for some time governor of Pickering castle. Grose’s Antiqu. VI. p. 143, 144. ANTIQUITIES. 735 the remaining area on either side of the keep; the foss on both sides opening into the circular foss of the keep, and the wall ascending the steep mound, and joining the wall of the keep. By this means the whole area of the castle is distributed into three parts, the keep forming an insulated division in the middle, and the remainder being divided into two wards, nearly equal. The principal buildings have been in the inner ward, but the vestiges of them are very imperfect: part of the area has been formed into gardens. Till lately, an old chapel, or chantry, used as the manorial court- house, was an object of curiosity: it is now completely modernised. The Saxon arch, in the western wall, is the most interesting object among the ruins. The gate of the inner ward has been directly opposite the great gate. It has been strongly fortified, having a draw- bridge over the foss, and a tower adjoining it on the side next the keep ; from which tower was the entrance into the keep, by a covert-way, sheltered by a wall with loopholes. Hence, if an enemy got a footing in the outer ward, or ballium, as it is called, his position would be rendered untenable by the extraordinary strength of the keep and the inner ward. The walls of the castle in the front, and on the north-east, where there is no precipice, are defended by a foss, and flanked with towers. A very strong tower, at the north-east extremity of the wall that separates the two wards, has had a dungeon in the lower part: this tower appears to have communicated with the keep, by a covert-way running up behind the wall. On the 736 STATISTICAL SURVEY. east is a beautiful tower, probably that which Leland calls Rosamond's tower ; and there is another beyond the great gate, at the south-west angle, called the Mill tower. The towers are excellently built, and their up- per stories neatly ornamented. Other towers were standing in Lcland’s time, one of which must have been at the other extremity of the cross wall : this might be demolished in the civil wars, by the Parlia- ment’s forces, who made a large breach in the walls on the west side.* The strongest fortress in the district, and the only one still retained as a place of defence, is Scarbo- rough castle. This celebrated building was erected * When the castie was taken, great quantities of papers and parchments, several of which had gilt letters on them, were scattered about the street called Castle-gate, and picked up by the children who were attracted by the glittering leaves. Hinderwell’s Hist, of Scar- borough, p 350. These were probably fragments of some illuminated manuscripts, destroyed by the ignorant soldiers, as relics of popery — The town of Pickering has a jurisdiction over several neighbouring villages: it sent two members to Parliament in the reign of Edward 1. Ibid. p. 346. — When Pickering castle was kept up as a royal castle, it had on its establishment a steward of the lordship, a constable of the castle, a master of the game within the lordship, and a rider of the forest. Grose’s Antiqu. VI. p. 144. — Lelaud’s description of the castle is as follows: “The Castelle stondith in an End of the Town not far from the Paroch Chirch on the Brow of the Hille, under the which the Broke rennith. In the first Court of it be a 4. Toures, of the which one is caullid Rosamund e’ s Toure. In the ynner Court be also a 4. Toures, wherof the Kepe is one. The Castelle Waulles and the Toures be meatly welle. the Logginges yn the ynner Court that be of Timbre be in ruine. in this inner Court is a Cliappelle and a Cantuarie Prest. — The Castelle hath of a good continuance with the Towne and Lordship longgid to the Lancaster Bloode: But who made the Castelle or who was Owner of it afore the Lancasters I could not lerne there. The Castelle Waulles now remaining seme to be of no very old Building. — As I remembre I hard say that Richard the thirde lay siiintyme at this Castelle, and sumtyme at Scardeburgh Castelle.” ltiner. 1. p. 64, 65. According to Hardyng’s Chronicle, Richard II was confined at Pickering, during part of his imprisonment. See His- derwell’s Hist p. 350. Note. ANTIQUITIES. 737 about the year 1136, by William Le Gros, earl of Albemarle and Holderness; it was taken possession of and improved by Henry II, some years after ; and has ever since been a royal castle, the government of which has been generally intrusted to noblemen of the first rank. This fortress stands on a lofty peninsulated rock, which, from its advantageous situation, may be supposed to have been a place of some consequence during the Roman and Saxon periods. On three sides it is defended by tremendous precipices, washed by the ocean : towards the west, the only accessible side, it is fortified by embattled walls, flanked with numer- ous semicircular towers, furnished with loopholes. Here too, the fortress is not without its natural de- fences; for the ground has a sudden declivity towards the west, and there is only a narrow ridge that admits an approach to the castle. Through this isthmus, and along the foot of the declivity, a deep ditch has been cut; and the entrance to the castle is by a draw-bridge across the ditch. The approach to the draw-bridge is guarded by an outwork, or barbican, upon the nar- row ridge; where there has been a gate strongly for- tified : and, beyond the draw-bridge, in the ascent towards the area of the castle, has been another gate, strengthened by towers, machicolations, a portcullis, and all the apparatus of Norman fortification. Above this gate stands the keep, a venerable ruin, 50 feet square, and 97 feet high, having walls about 12 feet thick. The interior has been divided into three lofty vaulted stories, each subdivided by a cross wall with 5 B *38 STATISTICAL SURVEY. open arches; besides the dungeon below, now choked up with stones and earth. The windows have been large and handsome, with semicircular arches sup- ported by round pillars, in the early Norman style. At each angle is a small projection, which was perhaps originally crowned with a turret. The building, in its entire state, could not be less than 120 feet high ; and as the rock on which it stands is more than 300 feet above the level of the sea, the reader may form some idea of its majestic appearance. Most of the inhabited buildings of the castle have stood near the keep, and the space containing them, which exceeds half an acre of ground, has been separated from the rest of the area towards the sea, by a wall and foss. Without this wall were several offices, and an ancient chapel on the east, near the verge of the cliff. To the west, of the chapel is a reservoir of water, called the Lady's Well, supplied apparently by the rain that falls on the higher parts of the area, means having been used to drain it thither : and the extent of surface is not inadequate for the purpose, the whole area being more than 19 acres.* This castle acquired much fame during the civil wars, when it was gallantly defended by Sir Hugh * William of Newburgh, who wrote about the year 1200, gives a description of this castle (L>b. II. c 3 ), where he calls the extent of the area sixty acres; at least, such is the usual reading in the copies of his work. Lei. Coll. II. p. 312, 313. I am fully persuaded, that sixteen was the original reading, the word sexuginta having, through erroneous copying, crept in instead of sexdecim: for sixteen acres is the number mentioned by Leland, and in a document drawn up in the year 1340, published in the History of Scarborough (p. 53), the ex- tent of the castle-green is stated at fifteen acres. The ancient acres were considerably larger than the modern, so that 15 or 16 of the for- mer would make at least 19 or 20 of the latter. ANTIQUITIES. 739 Cholmley, against the forces of the Parliament, for upwards of a year; and afterwards, under the command of Col. Boynton, sustained another siege of 5 months. The ridge that ascends towards the castle still bears strong marks of the approaches made by the besiegers ; and some of the works which they raised appear on other spots, particularly a regular pentagon battery near Peasebolm vale. But these sieges proved fatal to the strength and beauty of the castle, its principal buildings and fortifications having ever since Jain in. ruins. It contains at present a few houses and offices on the north-east of the keep, and the barracks on the south. The barracks, erected in 1746, during the alarm produced by the rebellion, will accommodate 120 soldiers, with their officers: they bear little analogy to the ancient magnificence of the fortress. No guns are mounted on the walls, but there are three batteries to defend the castle; one at the south point of the castle-yard; another below it, called the South Steel, with a magazine, storehouse, and guard-room, without the walls; and the Holmes battery, upon an eminence at the foot of the castle, on the north. The lit. Hon. Earl Mulgrave is the present governor; Wm. Travis, Esq. is storekeeper* and there are also on the esta- blishment, a barrack-master, a master-gunner, and a small detachment of invalid artillery * * Most of these particulars are taken from the History of Scar- borough, p. 38 — 97 ; where the reader will find an ample detail of the principal events connected with this castle. — Lelaud’s description of this fortress is as follows : “ At the Est Eude of the Toune, on the one Poynt of the Bosom of the Se, where the Harborow for Shippes is, stondith an exceding goodly larg and stronge Castelle on a steue Rok, having but one way S B 2 740 STATISTICAL SURVEY. IV. Ancient churches , and inscriptions connected with them. — A great part of our ecclesiastical antiqui- ties has already been considered in the history of the monasteries : yet the subject, instead of being exhaust- ed, is still too copious to admit of minute details. Most churches in the district discover vestiges of ancient architecture, combined with (he workmanship of later times : it will be sufficient to select the most interesting. o The only church in our district that retains the true Saxon form is that of Lestingham. The east end terminates in a semicircular recess for the altar, the concha bematis of the ancients, resembling the tribune of a Roman basilica:* and beneath this part of the church is a vaulled crypt, where relics were deposited. The arches of the crypt, the massy cylindrical pillars, and their variously sculptured capitals, are all in the real Saxon st)le. We can scarcely suppose this crypt to have been part of the stone church mentioned by Bede,f yet it might be erected before the Danish ir- ruption. The remainder of the church is comparatively by tbe stepe slaty Crag to cum to it. Ami or ever a Han can entre aream Casteili ther be 2. Toures> and betwixt eebe of them a Draw Bridg, having stepe Roks on eche side of them. In the first Court is the Arx and 3. Toures on a row. and then yoinith a H aul to them, as an Anne down from the first Courte to the Point of the Se Clilfe, con- teiningin itvi. Toures, wherofthe2 is square and fulle of Lodgings, and is caullid the Queens Towre or Lodging . — Without the first Area is a great Grene, conteyning (to reken down to the very shore) a xvi. Acres, and yn it is a Chapelle, and beside olde Waulles of Houses of Office that stood there. But of al the Castle the Arx is the eldest and the strongest Part, the Entery of the Castele betwixt the Draw Bridges is such that with Costes the Se might cum round about the Castelle, the which standith as a litle Foreland or Poynt betwixt 2. Bayes.” Itiner I. p. 61. * See Bingham’s Origin. Eccles. Book VIII. Ch. VI. Sect 9. Dallaway’s Anecd. p. 11, 12. f See p. 128. Bed. L. III. c. 23. ANTIQUITIES. 74 1 modern, and has undergone various alterations, the budding having' formerly been much larger that it now is. Some parts of the walls within have once been curiously adorned with painting. In the area of the church, near the west end, are some flat monuments with ornamented crosses, &c. One of them has the I. H. S. on the transverse of the cross, in very rude letters. Another, not far from the top of the stair leading down into the crypt, has belonged to one of the Spaunton family. The cross is very handsome. The inscription that goes round the border, is in an- cient capitals, much defaced ; but it seems to be French, beginning with the words ION DE SPANTON, and ending with PVR IHV CHRIST- — “for Jesus Christ.” This was probably the monument of that John de Spaunton who was an early benefactor to the monks of St. Mary’s, York, to whom this church belonged.* — Other churches, or chapels, which must have been built, since the conquest, present some remains of the Saxon architecture, in its latest stages; as Eston cha- pel, where we find semicircular arches, with the zigzag moulding; and Snainton chapel, the door of which affords a curious instance of the beak-head moulding. The church of Kirkdale, near Kirkby Moorside, is the only one in this vicinity, and almost the only one in Britain, that bears a Saxon inscription, record- ing the name of the founder, and dating the time of its erection before the conquest. The inscription is on a stone, 7 feet 5 inches long, and 1 foot 10 inches high, placed over the church door, fronting the south. The * Drake’s Eboracura, p. 592, 607. 742 STATISTICAL SURVEY. middle part of l he stone has been a dial, of a rede construction, having 1 no numerals to mark the hours, but 9 lines, diverging from the gnomon, making 8 angles nearly equal; one of which line- is perpendi- cular, for 12 o’clock; 2 are horizontal, for 6 A M. and 6 P. M . ; and 3 more on each side maik interme- diate spaces, not. corresponding with I he present hours. Most of the lines have small crosses at their extremities. The gnomon, from the appearance of the hole that contained it, seems to have projected from the stone at right angles: so little were the Saxons acquainted with the art of dialling. The inscription consists of three parts; the largest is in two compartments, one on each side of the dial, but not equally divided, that on the east side being most crowded ; it commemorates the founder, or rather the restorer, with the dale of the erection: the next part is over the dial, and in ;he semicircle that incloses the radii, or hour-lines; it is merely the title of the dial: the third part is a single line below, containing the name of the maker, and that of the minister, who assi-tet] him. it is remarkable that, while the church has been repaired and nice red on all sides again and again, this stone and (he Saxon door beneath it have remained undisturbed ; and it is still more remarkable, that every part of the inscription i9 entire, having owed its preservation partly to the raised borders, and the deepness of the letters, partly to the lime with which the stone has on some occasion been plastered over, hut principally to an antique porch which hid it from public view, till it was discovered in 1775, bv the itev, Wm. Dade, rector of llaimston ANTIQUITIES, I'll As this is perhaps the most inter ■esting Saxon monument in existence, the author is happy in presenting it to Hi public in a form much more correct tha any in which it has hitherto appeared The first and principal part of the in- scription, in the two compartments on each side the dial, may be thus expressec in modern characters, writing the con tracted words in full; ORM GAM At SUNA BOHTE SANCTUS GRE- GORIUS MINSTER THONNE HIT WES JEl. TOBROCAN AND TOFALAN; AND HE HIT LET MAG’AN NEWAN FROM GRUNDE CHRISTE AND SANCTUS GRE- GORIUS, IN EADWARD DAGUM CYNING, IN TOSTI DAGUM EORL: of which the following is a lite- ral translation ; ORM THE SON OF GAMAL BOUGHT St. GRE- GORY’S CHURCH, WHEN IT WAS ALL BROKEN DOWN AND FALLEN; AND HE CAUSED IT TO BE MADE NEW FROM THE GROUND, TO CHRIS 1 AND St. GREGORY, IN THE DAYS OF EDWARD THE KING, IN THE DAYS OF TOS- TI THE EARL. The second pari of the inscription, viz. that which is over the dial, and within its semicircle, reads thus; this is d^ges sol-mer- ca, iet ilcum tide; signilying; th/s IS A SUN-DIAL, FOR EVERY HOUR. Tilt word used to denote a sun-dial, d/eges sol-merca, literally means. The day’s sun-mark. The last part of the inscrip- tion, below the dial, reads ; AND HAWARTH ME WROHTE AND BRAND PRESBYTER; which words signify; AND HAWARTH MADE ME, AND BRAND THE MINIS- TER. The date of this curious monument may be determined within a few years; for Tosti, who was earl of Northumber- land in the reign of Edward the Confes sor, succeeded the famous earl Siward m that dignity, A. D. 1055, and was tH m *-7 s l_ — \ O oo TO 7p & o m 6V TO m 0 o to $ 3 fz § 5E m TO < 2 m — i mm ; — ^ IZd O Z2 — f o 2 rrp X "O X i — i Ze! H o £ 3 70 to 52 rrm g ^ : ± m ~n % n"> O 2 SS TO rrn Z % TO ZZ (D rH, zl O SS O 744 STATISTICAL SURVEY. expelled for his cruelties, in October, 1065 ; and as Tosti murdered Gama!, or Gamel, the father of Orrn, with others of the Northumbrian nobility, A. D. 1064, and we cannot suppose that Orm, after that barbarous transaction, would affix the hated name of his father’s murderer to any monument of his erecting, the church must have been built, and the inscription cut, be- tween the years 1055 and 1064.* — We find from Domesday, that Orm, before the conquest, was lord of Kirkdale, then called Chirchebi, or Kirkby ; and had ample possessions in that neighbourhood, and in the vale of the Esk.f His father Gamel is ranked among the Northumbrian nobles; and Orm himself is said to have married EtheldriLh, daughter of Aldred, earl of Northumbrian — As Orm bought this church, we may conclude that the lordship also came to him by pur- chase, and since his father, who was then alive, must have assisted in purchasing the property, it was fit that he should be named in the inscription The church, * See p. 65, 66. 67. Ciiron. Saxon, p. 169, 170 Gul. Malm. L. II. H. Hunt. R. (loved. M Westm. ad ann. 1055, &c. Even the monster Tosti performed some pious exploits, such as conducting: Aldred, archbishop of York to Rome, in 1061, and raising Egelwin to the see of Durham, R. Hoved. Sim. Dunelm. c. 44. The curiosity of I'.is countess Judith, proved fatal to one of her maids, who presumed by her orders to cross St. Cuthbert’s threshold. Sira Dun c. 46. •f See p. 83, 87. Gamel, who possessed a moiety of Kirkby Moorside, together with the lordships of Lastiughain, Spaunton, &c. (Bawdweu’s Domesday, p. 119, &c.), was perhaps the brother, rather than the father, of this Orm. The names seem to have descended in the family, for Gainel’s father was called Orm. This Gamel, whose estates lay contiguous to those of Orm, might be the same with Game)-6e«r/i, or Gamel — the younger , who headed the confederacy against Tosti ; for it is natural to expert, that the son would revenge the father’s death. The younger Gamel seems to be named indiscriminately, Gamel, and Gamel-ftar or Gamel-iam. Ibid. p. 162, 163, 165, 166. As Ga- mel the elder was murdered two years before the conquest, his lands would be entered in Domesday as the possessions of his sons, rather than of himself. § Brooke’s Letter on the Kirkdale Inscription. ANTIQUITIES. 745 being then in ruins, must have existed long before, and may have been erected on the conversion of the Danish settlers; or it might be built prior to the Danish irrup- tion, for it was dedicated to St. Gregory who first sent the gospel to the Saxons. The 2nd line in the 2nd compartment has not hitherto been correctly rendered; nor has the dial part of the inscription, as far as I know, been translated before, or even accurately delineated.* The line * Mr. Brooke’s first reading of that 2nd line, with part of the upper line, is very erroneous: CHEH1TLE AND MSN &c. adopted in Gough’s Camden, III. p. 86. The reading subsequently received gives the letters accurately, but mistakes their meaning; translating HE HIT LET MAE AN NEpAN, he agreed ivith Macau to rebuild it. But MAE AN is the infinitive of the verb from which our word make is derived, and not a proper name ; and the word LET does not here signify bargained, but caused. The word commonly denotes permis - sion; yet it is often used to express causation or command; particu- larly where it governs the infinitive; as. Ice ppingan, “caused to scourge”; Evang Saxon. Mat. xxvii. 26 ; lee him pycan ore hip eagan, “caused his eves to be taken out”; lee eymbpuan, “com- manded Vo build”; lee -f mynptep. haljian, “caused that church to be consecrated”; Chron. Saxon, p. 67, 151, 219 (in which three instances the translator of the Chronicle has very improperly rendered lee, permisit): ■j) Soi leee bebon, “ that thou cause to order”; leor he jiaedon, “he caused to be read”; Wilk. Concil. I. p. 49, 50. In- deed, the word let was used in the causative sense long after the Saxon times : thus, we find in an old Chronicle, “ King Edwarde let welle enclose Berwik with Ditches and Waulles” ; Lei. Coll. I. p. 473. The word nepan, or nipan, is an adjective; as pone mpan peyp, “the new piece” ; paejie nipan cySneppe, “ of the new testament” : Evang. Sax. Marc. ii. 21. xiv. 24. pa ealban -j pa nipan, “the old and the new” ; Heptat. Sax. Prsef. p. 4. Donne usually denotes then, but in this inscription it means when, as it frequently does elsewhere: thus, Sonne he gepeah, “ when he saw”; Alfred’s Bede, L iv. c. 24. Sn& ponne he eop clypaS, “And when he calleth you”: And ponne ge pieoS, “ And when ye flee”: Heptateuch. Saxon. Gen. xlvi. 33. Lev. xxvi. 25 : ponne ge eop gebibbon, “ when ye pray” ; ponne hi eop ehraS, “ when they persecute you” ; Evang. Saxon. Mat. vi. 5, 6, 7. x. 23: to which multitudes of instances might be added. The prefix zo, in the verbs robpocan and bopalan, is very common in the Saxon : the first of these verbs occurs. Mat. xxi. 12. Luc. v. 6. The contraction SES, for Sanctus , is not varied, nor evem 5 C 746 STATISTICAL SURVEY. below the dial contains the maker’s name, Hawarth, a common Saxon or Danish name: the proprietor of Stokesley before the conquest was so called.* The minister’s name. Brand, was also common ; especially in composition. Tor brand was a man of great pro- perty in those parts, and was probably related to Orm’s family; for he possessed a moiety of Kirkby Moorside, while Gamel held the rest, and while Gamel had Mickle- Edstone, Torbrand had Little-Edstone.-f The patronage of Kirkdale church, which belonged the termination of EREEORIV8, it being customary with the Saxons to use Latin names as indeclinable words. The contraction XPE, for christe, is very common in old writings : it may be proper to inform some readers, that X is the Greek character for ch, and that p is the Greek r. ENE is the usual contraction foi cyning, king. Perhapt ■we should here read it cymngep ; for the construction requires the possessive case; as ppam Iohannej* aagaim FulpiLtepep, “From the days of John the Baptist”; Mat. xi. 12, On ^epoaep “dagoim Ioi&ea cynincjep, “in the days of Herod king of Judea”; Luc. I. 5. The 2nd or dial part of the inscription is read by Mr. Brooke, or rather by the Rev. Mr. Manning, BIS IS DiEEES SiEL MERE A TO SVNNA TILLYM pINTERES, and translated, “This is a draught exhibiting the time of day, while the sun is passing to and from the winter solstice.” This reading is not only too abstruse for the Saxon era, but altogether hypothetical. There is no need of hy- pothesis, or supplement; for there is not a letter of the inscription wanting. The words convey a clear and full meaning: BIS IS DjEEES SOL MEREA iET ILEVM TIDE, This is a Sun-dial for every hour. The compound SOL MEREA, literally denoting sun-mark, is analogous to other Saxon compounds; as 8ol-monal5, Sun month ; the name given to February. See Lye’s Saxon Diction- ary. The word llcoim, every, is usually written aelcaira; as op aelcoim caj-rele, “ of every town” : Luc. V. 17. op aelcaim rpeope, “of every tree” ; Hept. Sax. Genes, ii. 16. in. 1. The word ilka is still used for every, in the Scottish dialect. Tioe commonly denotes time, or season; but it also signifies hour, which the sense here re- quires ; as. Mat. xxvii. 45. ppam 'Ssep.e pixran rise o?> pa nygoSan zi s, “ from the sixth hour to the ninth hour.” Vide Evang- Sax. Mat. xx. 5, 6, 12. Luc. xxm. 44, &c. The contraction PRS above the last part of the inscription is for presbyter : it is also contracted PSB, and PBR. * Bawd. Domes, p. 226. f Ibid. p. 119, 121. ANTIQUITIES. 747 to the abbey of Newburgh prior to the dissolution, was given by the 1st Earl of Danby to the university of Oxford, A. D. 1632. The situation of the church is pleasant and romantic, but the building is neither elegant nor uniform, and presents little that is interest- ing, except the inscription.* But Kirkdale is not the only church in our district, furnished with a Saxon dial, bearing an inscription : the neighbouring church of Edstone enjoys the same honour, though no author that I am acquainted with has hitherto noticed it. The church, like that of Kirk- dale, has been often rebuilt and repaired ; and even the south door has been renewed, as is obvious from its pointed arch ; but, though the stone has been shifted, perhaps more than once, it has been carefully replaced in its original station above the door; where, as at Kirkdale, it has been preserved by a porch, now re- moved. The stone is 3 feet 11 inches long, and 1 foot 7~ inches broad. A correct drawing of the dial and inscription is here given. * Since the discovery of the inscription, the porch has been re- newed and raised, so as to shelter it from injury. The stone has been recently painted, the letters being distinguished by a difference of colour; some letters, however, were altered in the painting, particularly in the word TIDE, which was changed into TXME, a mistake which the author partly corrected, when examining the inscription. 748 STATISTICAL SURVEY. This inscription consists of two parts ; one on the west side of the dial, and the other above it. The first records the maker’s name, and reads thus, in modern letters, LOTHAN ME WROHTEA, that is, LO- TH AN MADE J\1E. That over the dial is only a single word, in small characters, expressing the name of the dial, which may be read orlogiuatory, cr per- haps orlogiumatory; the word being apparently mu- tilated in the middle, where a fragment of the stone has broken off, above the gnomon. As the dial and the letters are executed in the same style as those at Kirkdale, they belong unquestionably to the same age; though perhaps the Edstone inscription may be a few years later.* — There is an antique font in the church, ornamented in the Saxon style. The church, or chapel, of Bilsdale presents us with another curious commemorative inscription, also unpublished. It was found in 1813, at the rebuilding of the chapel, the stone being taken out of the wall, into which it had been thrown as a common stone, at some distant era, when the chapel had been rebuilt.f * Garnet being proprietor of Great Edstone ( Michcl-Edestun , Domesday, p. 121 ) might have this dial made in imitation of that of Kirkdale, erected by his kinsman Orm ; but the inscription seems to have been left unfinished, owing perhaps to the troubles which arose at the conquest. The "K at the end of the word pROHTE, perhaps belongs to the word XND, or some other word intended to follow. The name ORLOGIVATORY, or ORLOGIUMATORY, here given to the dial, derived from orlogium, or horologium, a timepiece, seems more scientific than the Kirkdale name, yet the dial itself is in the same rude form as the other. — Great Edstone. where the church stands, is finely situated on an eminence; LiLtle Edstone is now only a farm- house, about a quarter of a mile to the north of Edstone church. Perhaps it was at the reformation, for several tomb-stones with crosses on them were discovered at the same time ; as I learned from the Rev. J. Dixon, the incumbent. — I am indebted to Mr. W. Bearcroft, ANTIQUITIES. 749 It is now happily rescued from that oblivion to which it had been consigned, and placed in the front of the chapel, the station which it must have originally oc- cupied. The breadth of the stone is about a foot, and the length more than two feet. It is correctly deli- neated as under. From the form of the letters, we are warranted to infer the high antiquity of the inscription, which is distinguished by this peculiarity, that a great number of the letters are doubled. When stripped of the re- dundant letters, it is found to consist of the following Latin couplet : CONDIT ECCLESIAM WILLELMUS NOBILIS ISTAM, INTEMERATvE NOMINE SANCTJE VIRGINIS HILDjE. Which lines signify: “ Lord William builds this church in honour of the chaste virgin St. Hilda.”* This was therefore one of the many churches dedicated to our St. Hilda; but whether the builder was William the son of Walter D’Espec, who founded the monasteries of Kirkham, Rievaux, and Wardon, in the reign of of Kirkby Moorside, for the first notice of this inscription, and of the Edstone inscription, as well as for many other valuable commu- nications. * SE E is the usual contraction for sanctce. Perhaps we shoulij read condidit, built , instead of condit, builds. 750 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Henry I, or some other lord William, it is difficult to say. All that 1 have found on the subject is, that, though Bilsdale was given by W alter D’Espec to Rievaux abbey, the chapel, which is at the head of the dale, was granted, with some endowments, to the priory of Kirkham, long before the year 1229.* The sepulchral monuments in the churches of this district are too numerous to be particularised. Stone coffins have been frequently discovered. There is one preserved in Scarborough church-yard : ano- ther, at Hinderwell, is profanely used as a watering- trough for cattle. Several ancient effigies remain in different places. The most remarkable are at Picker- ing church, where we find a mutilated figure beside the altar; a cross-legged knight lying against the north wall of the nave, in good preservation, though sadly besmeared with ochre; and a knight and his lady, in a small chapel or chantry, built against the south wall of the choir, and now used as a school-house. The figures, according to Leland, are monuments of the Brus family, who once flourished here ; though tradition makes the cross-legged knight to belong to the Lascelles family, who had a hall at Keldhead.f The church itself is a strong Gothic fabric, with a lofty spire. In Easington church is the effigy of an infant sleeping in a cradle, in memory of a child of the family of Conyers of Boulby, who died July 1st, 1621. — Monuments with plates are not uncommon. * Burton’s Monast. p. 374, 378. Simon, son of Walter de Yer, A. D. 1229, continued to the priory of Kirkhain all the laud in Billes- dale, which his ancestors had given to Billesdale chapel. The founder might therefore he a William deVer. or Vere. f Lei. Itin. I. p. 64,65. ANTIQUITIES. 751 Acopper-plaie was found in the cliff near Scarborough church, in 1810 , bearing this inscription. PR^ILLS db&Iioru o D The words written in full are; Pater Willielmus de Thornton — Father William of Thornton .* — In the church of Kirkby Moorside, which is a spacious anci- ent edifice, is a curious marble monument with a brass plate gilt, on which are carved figures of a lady Brooke and her six sons and five daughters, all kneeling. Above the plate are these lines : READER PREPARE FOR DEATH, FOR IF THE FATALE SHEARES COVLD HAVE BENE STAYD, BY PRAYERS, SIGHES, OR TEARES THEY HAD BENE STAY D AND THIS TOMBE THOV SEEST HERE HAD NOT ERECTED BEENE YET MANY A YEARE. Below the plate is the following inscription: HERE LYETH THE BODY OF MY LADY BROOKE WHO WHILE sHEE LYVED WAS A GOOD WOMAN, A VERY GOOD MOTHER, & AN EXCEI DING GOOD WIFE. HER SOVLE IS AT REST W 1H GOD FOR SHE WAS SVRE Y T HER REDEMER LYVED & THAT THOVGH WORMES DESTROYED HER BODY, YET SHEE SHOULD SEE GOD IN HER FLESH. SHE DYED THE 12th OF JVLY, 1600.-]- * Perhaps the Willm. de Thornton who, in the year 1220, sub- scribed one of the charters in the Whitby Register, fob 117. Charlton, p. 164. t The inscriptions are on slips of black marble, which, as well as the plate, are let into a slab of Derbyshire marble. A few years ago, when the chancel of this church was repairing, there was discovered in the middle of the east wall, a grave lined with a kind of stucco, containing a skeleton, and covered with a stone on which a 752 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Iii the floor of Rousby chapel, near the altar, is a curious monument, to the memory of the founder, one of the Boynton family. On a brass plate in the cen- tre, is his effigy in armour, with his hands elevated, in a praying attitude ; at each angle above, is a shield with the Boynton arms; and below his feet is this inscription : $rap for tfje rtoule of Cboma.^ 25 opntoti of ftopiobp <£s'c[uter to^o caused tfjte cfjnrche fpr^t to be batobieD ^ toa.si pe, fprst corpse that toa.^ berped in pt i Dece^cD the XIU dap of JBarchc the per of o r lord god irDb 0 - and tvocntp three On xoho^c .stoule jf)U habe merep amen. In the church of Brompton, in one of the seats belonging to Sir Geo. Cayley’s family, is a stone with the following curious inscription. I. W. E W | ~ 1580 ~ 1547 HERE I) LYETH || I AMES || WESTROF jjvHO H IN j| WARS ||TO|| H1S|| GRElT~ I CHARGE S|| SARV E D|i 01 N~ |j KYNG~ AND ||TOW||QVENES"||WITH|| DV oBE \ DlENS||AN Dj|D IE DjjWTT H [ | ~Q W T | f R E " H ~CVMPENS Above the inscription, and between the initials of the husband and wife at the top, is a shield bearing their arms empaled.* * cross was carved. There had been an arched recess over the place. A plate of metal was found near the head, and is now in possession of Mr. Wm. Bearcroft; but it is completely oxydized, and bears no visible inscription. * Besides the churches and chapels now standing, several others have existed in our neighbourhood, the history of which is now lost, though some remains of the buildings or ornaments are occasionally discovered. Two font stones were found in different fields at Hutton Mulgrave, one of which is now laid beside Mulgrave. castle. In the ANTIQUITIES. 753 V. Ancient crosses. — The superstitious use of stone pillars in the form of crosses is of an early date, and in this district they have been very numerous. Some we find entire, others greatly mutilated: in many instances the pillars are gone, and only their pedestals left; and in not a few cases, no remains of the crosses are found, except in the names which they have bequeathed to the places where they stood. Se- veral of these relics of superstition are observed in solitary spots on the moors, several beside the high- ways, but a much greater number in church-yards, or near religious buildings. — These curious monuments are much diversified in their ornaments, and even in their form. The tallest in this quarter is that here represented, which stands in the abbey plain, an open area between Whitby church and the abbey. field where one of them was dug up, called Kirk-fielcl, the foundations of a building were observed. On the south side of the Esk, above. 5 D 754 STATISTICAL SURVEY. The pillar of this cross is octagonal, with beads at the angles ; the cross part at the top seems to have assumed a trefoil shape, each projection being perforated. The height of the whole, including the round steps forming the base, is about 20 feet. — The most common form of a cross is that of No. 1, in the annexed Plate of crosses, representing Ralph cross, which is 9 feet high, fixed in a pedestal or socket 3 feet square : it is one of our tallest crosses. No. 2 is Lilia or Lilhoue cross, 7 \ feet high, and of a peculiar form, standing on the top of a houe. No. 3 is a very singular cross, near the village of Westerdale, 5 ft. 8 in. high, on a pedes- tal 2 ft. 4 in. square. No. 4 is the pillar of Havvsker cross, 6^ ft. high, neatly carved on all sides, with the figure of a lamb facing the site of the chapel that once stood here. The original pillar of Swarthoue cross, replaced by a modern plain pillar, was carved in the same form. Such ornamented pillars were no doubt surmounted by capitals, on which crucifixes and other figures were sculptured. The upper part of a cross of this kind, with the holy lamb on it, was dug up several years ago near the ruins of Growmond priory. A curious capital, belonging to a carved Growmond bridge, there was the site of a religious house in a field named Chapel close, where were found a small jet crucifix and a coin of Henry III, now in the possession of Mr. Robinson of that place. This was perhaps the hermitage of St Leonard, belonging to the monks of Melsa; who might also have a religious building on their property at Huttou. See the Note on p. 727. In p. 226, I have hazarded a conjecture that both these buildings might be Saxon; but 1 did not then know that the abbey of Melsa had such possessions near Whitby. The Saxon chapel in Harwood-dale has been already noticed ; p. 661, 662 Some remains of St. Michael’s chapel at Sinnington, now a barn, are discernible, and of a religious house at Marlon, perhaps be- longing- to the nuns at Yeddingham. See p. 440, Burton, p. 285. Marton priory was not in our district, but nearer to York. Burton, p. 265 ANTIQUITIES. 755 cross that has stood beside the chapel in Scarborough castle, was found among the ruins of the chapel in 1807, and is now in the possession of T. Hinderweli, Esq. It is about 2 feet high, 15 inches broad, and 12 inches thick; and has a perforation through the centre from top to bottom, for receiving the iron bar which has fixed it on its carved pillar. One side exhibits the crucifixion, under an ornamental canopy ; with a figure on each side of the cross, representing Mary & John: on the opposite side, also under a canopy, is the virgin with the babe, in a sitting posture: and at each end is a figure in a pontifical habit, with mitre and crosier.* The purposes served by these pillars were as various as their forms. Some were sepulchral monu- ments erected at the graves of the pious ;+ some were raised on spots where murders had been committed or battles fought,§ perhaps to excite passengers to pray for the souls departed ; some were erected in honour of the dead, generally in places where their bodies had rested during the procession to the grave : [| many * From the style of the sculpture, the cross may be supposed to have been nearly coeval with the castle. It was discovered in the foundation of the building-, having probably been thrown into the wall at toe reformation; for I observe that numbers of grave-stones, or other stones with crosses, are found in similar situations; and this chapel, which was entire when Leland made his tour, might be used for some time after the Veformation, being first divested of such relics of super- stition. An entire cross of this sort, with a capital of a different form, but bearing almost the same figures, now stands at Low Middleton in the county of Durham. Another, with a squared capital, exactly like that of the Scarborough cross, is in Derwen church-yard, Denbigh- shire. Gough’s Camden, 1 1. p. 583. Plate xix. Fig. 16, 17. + As at the grave of bishop Acca: Lei. Coll. II. p 349. § As the cross where Aldred was slain. Ibid p. 346. || As Charing cross, and West- cheap cross, in honour of queen Eleanora: Ibid p.315. About a mile from Northampton there is a haudsome cross, erected in memory of queen Eleanor’s body having rested there Journey through England, II. p. 164. Lei. Itin, I. p, 10. 5 D 2 756 STATISTICAL SURVEY. were set up to prevent disputes about territory,* and serve as landmarks, like the statues of the god Ter- minus ;f and this plan was especially adopted by the knights templars, and hospitallers, for securing their possessions :§ some marked out the limits of sanctua- ries, as the famous St. Guthlac’s cross, and many others ; || numbers stood in market-places, or on spots where fairs were held, to overawe the traders into honesty, and hence market-crosses are still in use; but a much greater number stood in church- yards, where they were used for the purposes of superstition ; processions were made to them on palm- sundays, and devotees creeped towards them and kissed them on good-fridays ; so that a cross was con- sidered as a necessary appendage to every cemetery.]; We have crosses belonging to several of these classes. Such as stand solitarily on the moors may be the mo- numents of murders or accidents; particularly those which bear the names of men, as Percy cross. Mauley cross, two Ralph crosses, two John crosses (besides John-a-man cross), Thom cross, Arno cross, &c.** * Ministers were directed to make their parishioners repair the crosses that had fallen down, whether set up for peace, or for the dead — quae pro pace yel pro defunctis fuerint ereclae.” Wilk. Concil. I. p. 626. 1 In a very ancient inscription relating to boundaries. Fleet- wood, p. 69, 70, 71, there are some passages bearing a strong resem- blance to the description of the limits of Whitby Strand; the termini occupying the station of our houes and crosses. § Gough’s Camden, II. p. 248. Seculars sometimes attempted to spiritualize their estates by planting crosses round them, claiming the privileges of the templars and hospitallers, to the prejudice of the chief lord of the fee; to put a stop to which abuse, it was enacted (13 Edw. I) that such lands should be foifeited. Statutes at large, 1. p. 100. || Gough’s Camden, II. p. 236, 237. Lei. Coll. III. p. 101. History ot Ripon, p. 78. Note. % Wilk. Concil. I. p 623, 624. III. p. 842, 847. ** Perhaps Arno cross is more properly Arnehoue cross, for it stands on a houe, near Rosedale. The Saxon or Danish name Arne occurs in Arneclijf. * ANTIQUITIES. 757 Such as are by the way-side may mark the spots where corpses have rested; as one near Egton, one beside Sleights, another on tiie north of Stakesby, &c.* A few appear to be boundary crosses; as Lilhoue cross, Silhoue cross (now gone), andSwarthoue cross; though it is possible that, like the houes at which they stand, they may have their station on a boundary line through accident. Some are probably market-crosses, besides the modern pillars so named. f But the most abundant are the relics of the cemetery crosses, near ancient places of worship. Several of these have already beep noticed, and many others might be named, as those in the church-yards of Ebberston, Cropton, &c. The upper part of such crosses is rarely left; and, in some instances, the stump of the pillar is employed to sup- port a horizontal dial. The cross which stands in our abbey plain, which appears to have belonged to the cemetery of the abbey, is the most entire of the kind existing in the district :§ that of Hawsker would have been beautiful, had it not been robbed of its capital. * Of these crosses only the pedestals remain : the Egton cross has stood not far from the place where the fairs are held. Some think that the crosses by the way-side were merely intended to aid the devotion of passengers, particularly when they came in sight of a monastery. + There is a very ancient pillar, supposed to be a market-cross, at the Low Conduit, in Scarborough. § I have already endeavoured to explode the commonly received notion, that this is the ancient market- cross of W hitbv. See p. 571, 572. We must not allow ourselves to be so far misled by the appearance of the modern walls and enclosures, as to think that this cross stood in an open area in the time of the monks, as it does now.: it was within their cemetery, which lay in this direction; the buildings of the abbey being chiefly on the south. In confirmation of this opinion, see the passage relating to the burial of Mr. Nightingale, rector of Sneaton, p. 352, with the Note there. He was buried on the north side, before the cross. It may be observed, in connexion with this subject, that by the agreement made at the salp pf the advowson of Sneaton ehapel (see p. 374. Charlton, p. 103), the STATISTICAL SURVEY. 7a§ VI. Ancient man- [factories . — Under this desig- nation may be noticed tee remains of ancient forges, or places where iron has been manufactured ; indicated by the numerous, heaps of slag, found in our moors and dales, t hese remains are found at Castleton, Glase- dale, Egton Grange, July Park, Growmond bridge, and many other places in or near the vale of the Esk, as well as in other vales in the district; chiefly in spots where the ancient woods would yield an abundant sup- ply of fuel. These forges must have been very simple, as no remains of buildings have been noticed at any of them. Perhaps most of (hem may be assigned to the Roman period; tor the Romans, as we learn from their historians, took particular notice of the metals which Britain yielded, and would be careful to improve its metallic stores * Yet many of them belong to the era of the monks, under whose care the manufacture of iron was carried on to a considerable extent. f ministers of Sneaton might be buried in the cemetery of tiie abbey, if they desired it before their death, or iiieir friends for them afler t heir death. Perhaps the steps which give the cross tiie appearance of a market-cross, might be put under it, in order to raise it and make it a better ornament to the area, either by direction of Sir Hugh Choim- )ey, or of one of his ancestors. — A number of the crosses are marked on the Map. One of tlse most singular notions which 1 have met with, respecting the pedestals and stumps of crosses found on way-sides, is that, of Gen. Roy, who supposes them to be relics of Roman milestones !• Milit. Antiqu. p. 109, 110 None of those in our district are near the Roman road, except Mauley cress * Nascitur ibi plumbum Ac. : in maritimis ferrum. Caesar de R. G. Lib. V. c. 12. Fert Britannia atirum et argentum et alia metalla, pretitim victorias Tacitus, Agric. c 12 t There was a forge (forgia) on the premises of the nuns of Rosedale Dugd Mon. 1. p. 508. The mines, or ores, of lead and iron in tli ir lands, were granted to the monks of By land Ibid. p. 777. The same monks were permitted to dig for iron ore iu Claverby ; and were allowed outofEmmeley as much iron ore as would supply one furnace, with wood for fuel. Burton, p 332. ,The monks of Joreval had similar grants. Dugd. I. p. S74. Burton. ANTIQUITIES. The most remarkable ancient manufactory in this quarter is near Growmond bridge, in a place called the Alum garth, on the south-west bank of the Mirk Esk, a little above its confluence with the Esk. The remains of this work, occupying a space about 100 feet square, are here delineated. In the space marked A, there has been a range of furnaces, or places for boilers, extending from S. to N. or rather from SSE to NNW. The furnaces have been built with bricks. B is a deep cistern, 44 feet long, and 8~ wide, behind the furnaces and pa- rallel to them. At C are three round cisterns, which p. 371. Numbers of forges (called favercce instead of fabricaz) be- longed toRievaux abbey. Dugd. I. p.730, 732 Burton, p 360,363. Hence vast heaps of slag are found near Rievaux. Whitby monks do not appear to have taken part in this 'kind of manufacture: bnt they carried on other works, particularly tannins', which seems to have been also pursued at Rosedaie, Keldkoim, aud other monasteries. 7G0 STATISTICAL SURVEY. should have been placed a little further north. All the four cisterns have been lined with hewn stone, and each of them may have been 4 or 5 feet deep. Near the three round cisterns, on the north of the range of furnaces, are foundations of houses. Parallel to the cistern B, are two rows of circular cisterns, or pits, at D ; 20 in each row. Each pit has been 3 ft. deep, and 2 ft. 10 in. diameter, neatly lined with hewn stone. The distance between one pit and another, in the same row, is 1 ft. 10 in.; and the interval between the rows, 5 feet. The whole space occupied by the rows has been paved with flags, and enclosed by an edging of upright stones, so as to form a large shallow cistern or cooler, which has been divided longitudinally, by a low wall of hewn stone passing between the rows. Beyond this cooler, and parallel to the rows, has been a large and deep cistern E, now in a very imperfect state. The whole work, indeed, which seems to have been enclosed by a wall, is greatly mutilated, vast, quantities of the hewn stones, and other materials, having been carried olf. The history of this work is entirely lost; it has no place even in tradition; but as it bears some analogy to an alum-work, as the field has been called the almn- garth from time immemorial, as there is excellent alum-rock near it that bears the marks of having been wrought, as there are heaps of uncalcined alum-shale scattered on the narrow plain on each side, as the oxide of iron, the usual residuum left at old alum-works, is found in the pits and cisterns, and as we see a spot on the adjoining bank, where the exhausted calcined ANTIQUITIES. 761 shale has been thrown over, to be carried down by the river, — we need not hesitate to pronounce it an ancient alum-work. Its high antiquity is obvious from its sin- gular form, and from the age of the trees that grow on it, some of which have sprung from the roots of a more ancient race; but especially from its not coming within the compass of history or tradition. Besides, in a plan of the Egton estate drawn in 1636, belong- ing to Robt. Carey Elwes, Esq. the proprietor, the place is called the allum garth; yet it had not been a work for several years before that date, as there were then no houses on the spot, but only trees. This carries its antiquity beyond that of the work at Belman Bank near Guisborough, which history and tradition concur in representing as the first alum-work in Britain; and induces a belief, that the art of making alum was either practised by the Romans while they possessed Britain, or introduced clandestinely by the monks, long before the usual date of its introduction.* * Against the notion of its being a Roman work, it will be ob- jected, that the alumen of the Romans appears to have been sulphate of iron, or copperas; and that the art of making alum, properly so called, was first brought iuto Europe from the east, by some Genoese in the 15th century. To this 1 answer, that though the Romans con- founded copperas with alum, yet their best alum was white, and there- fore could not be copperas. There was one kind of their alum which appears to be the very same with the modern alum : “ Concreti aluminis unum genus schiston appellant Graeci, in capillamenta quaedam canes- centia dehiscens. Unde quidam trichitin polius appellavere. Hoc fit e iapide, ex quo et chalcitin vocant: ut sit sudor quidam ejus lapidis in spumam coagulatus &c.” Plinii Hist. Natur. Lib xxxv. c 15 It is well known that at our alum- works, copperas is produced instead of alum, when care is not taken to separate the iron; we need not then wonder that the Romans confounded them. Perhaps the art of making alum was banished to the eastern empire, on the irruption of the Goths, with other ingenious arts; and returned with them from thence on the revival of learning in the west. — The excellence of the workmanship 762 STATISTICAL SURVEY. VII. Miscellaneous antiquities .— Under this head may be noticed various articles which it is not neces- sary to arrange into classes. Curious stone instruments have been discovered, shaped like smiths’ hammers, but intended to serve both as hatchets and hammers, and no doubt used by the Britons before they were acquainted with iron. No. 3, in the Plate of Antiquities, represents one of these stone hatchets, found several years ago in Har- wood Dale, near the house of Mr. Henry Haider, to whom it belongs. It is 9 inches long, 3~ broad at the hole for the handle, and 3j thick ; and weighs nearly 7 pounds. No. 4, now in the author’s possession, was discovered many years ago, in the same quarter, by Mr. Parker of Fylingdales : it is 7 in. long, 3^ broad, and 2-j thick ; weighing 3\ pounds. No. 5 was at the alum garth, and its proximity to the Roman road, favour the idea of its being a Roman work. Yet there are circumstances which seem to give the monks a better claim to it. The alum-garth is not only near Growrnond priory, but stands on a spot which, if my con- jecture as to St. Leonard’s hermitage be admitted (see p. 754. Note), must have belonged to the monks of Melsa; and though they did not long retain possession of it, it probably passed from them to the monks of Growrnond, who, having much intercourse with Rome, might steal the art from Italy, and hope to carry it on undiscovered in this seques- tered spot. On one or two of the hewn stones I observed a cross, which is not likely to have been used as a mason-mark among the Romans. There has been a channel, lined with hewn stone, to convey a supply of water to the work from the bank of the river on the south, and the water has been brought inlo the channel by a race, or aqueduct, from a water-fall up the river. It is observable, that the bottom of each pit is formed of an entire flat stone; the seams have been filled with clay, and no communication is left between one pit and another. The work, whatever may be its date, seems to have been left off ab- ruptly, after being carried on a very short while; the marks of the tools on the stones being veiy fresh. There has been a forge on the opposite side of the river, in a place called Smithy-holme, and the road leading up from the river to the alum-garth is paved with slag. ANTIQUITIES. 7 63 more recently discovered at Goldsbrough, and is in the possession of the Rev. T. Watson : it is 8 inches long, 3f broad, and 3 thick ; weighing 5{- pounds. No. 3 and 4 are of hard whinstone, No. 5 is of com- pact quartz with specks of hornblend. The holes have been wrought with incredible labour, by boring with sharp stones on both sides, till the perforation was completed. No. 3 is coated with a whitish crust, and No. 4 with a brownish incrustation ; the stones being corroded by time. No. 4 seems to have lost an entire coat that has scaled off, and hence the hole appears too large for the size of the hatchet. These instruments are probably above 2000 years old; for the Britons made use ot metals at the time of Caesar’s invasion.* Querns, or hand-mills, once in general use, have also been found. No. 6 in the same Plate, is the lower stone of a quern, found about 15 years ago beside the old hall or castle of Egton,f and now in the possession of Mr. Pecket of that place. The whole stone is 15 inches diameter, and 5 in. high ; the hollow in which the upper stone has wrought is 11^ inches diameter, and deep. In the centre at a is a piece of lead, where the spindle, on which the upper stone revolved, has been fixed: the bottom is cut in diverging lines, to facilitate the grinding; and on one side of the bor- der is a spout, for letting out the meal, A stone of * A stone hammer, or hatchet, of the same kind was found near Carlisle in 1730. Ref Galean. M.S.S. II. p.61. See also Archaeologia, II. p. 129. f In noticing this ancient baronial residence in p. 729, I might have observed, that a charter granted by king John to the nuns of Keldholm is dated at Eggeton, or Egton, Feb. 4th, 1201. DugcL Mon. I. p. 915. 5 E 2 764 STATISTICAL SURVEY. the same kind, but much more worn, was found in Eskdaleside a few months ago, by Mr. Jn. Clark, and is in the possession of Mr. Bird. No. 7 is the upper stone of another quern, found in Harwood Dale.* It is 10 in. diameter and 5 in. high; and has a hollow and opening at b, for admitting the corn, and two small holes in the sides at c c, each about 2 in. deep, in which have been fixed the wooden handles, for turning the stone round. + Figure 8, in the same Plate, represents a gold ring, weighing half an ounce, found in the moor edge near Rousby, about 8 years ago, and now in the pos- session of Mr. Mark Taylor of Staiths. The crest on the seal is a stag’s head, with the initials lit p instrted between the horns. Fig. 9 is another gold ring, about the same size, found on Danby moor in J790, and now belonging to Mrs. Bateman of this place. The seal part bears a flower, with 5 petals, and within each petal a letter, forming together the word tttOtt; so that the ring must have belonged to the ancient family of that name.§ Within the ring is this old French motto p£tt££t bten+ t£ box tit prt+ which may be rendered. Think well — I pray you. In 1815, a gilt ring was found at Ilandale abbey, with the motto Vertue paseth * On the occasion mentioned p. 661, 662. t The custom of grinding corn with such querns still prevails in the eastern countries, and is scarcely laid aside in the Hebrides. Pennant’s Tour, II. p. 281, 286. § Their original lordship was Etton in the East Riding, where some grants were made by the family to Watton priory. Burton’s Mon. p. 413. Rudston belonged to Henry de Etton, and at his decease came to his sisters, before the year 1296. Drake’s Ebor. p. 610, 621. Sir John de Etlon was Sheriff of Yorkshire in 1406 Ibid, p.352. The castle and estate of Gilling, also belonging to this family, came by marriage to the Fairfax family in the reign of Henry VII. Ibid. p. 395. A3SfT*W0LUJTIM& ANTIQUITIES. 7G5 riches. Perhaps it had been buried with one of the nuns.* Many Roman coins, chiefly silver, have been found in this vicinity. In 1792, a hoard of silver coins was turned up by the plough, in a field a little to the north of Ugthorpe mill, now belonging to Mr. Linton. The discoverer, Willm. Burton, then a boy, and now a farmer near Ugthorpe Rails, states that the coins were in a round hole, without any vessel to contain them, and that the quantity was nearly sufficient to fill both pockets of his jacket: his master took the bulk of them and sold them to silversmiths at a distance, and he himself sold a few to the late Mr. R. Webster of Whitby. Three of them are in Mr. Jn. Webster’s possession ; and two others have been obtained by the author. They consist of, a consecration piece of Ves- pasian, consequently struck after his death; a coin of Nerva ; another defaced, but probably of Trajan; one of Marcus Aurelius, and one of his empress Faustina. The hoard must have been deposited 70 or 80 years after the wars of Agricola. A much larger hoard was ploughed up, about 7 years ago, on the farm of Mr. Rickaby beside Whorlton, near the borders of our district. The coins were contained within a large silver vase, which being much corroded was broken to pieces by the plough. The coins must have been hid about the time when the Romans forsook Britain; those which I have seen being of the reigns of Valens, * I may here uotice as a curiosity, though not an antiquity, that about a year ago, a servant of Miss M. Yeoman of this town found within a fish, which was dressed for dinner, a small gold ring with the word gold on the inside. It is known that fishes catch at pieces of shining metal. 766 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Gratian, Theodosius, Honorius, and Arcadius. One of Arcadius is in the possession of Mr. Bird; several of the other coins are in the hands of different gentle- men at Stokesley and the vicinity; where there is also preserved a silver bar, above 3 inches long, weighing 4 oz., found among the coins, along with another bar, which was broken. Numbers of Roman brass or copper coins have been found about Mallon, but very few have appeared near Whitby. I have only seen an Alexander Severus, large brass, in the possession of Mr. T. Hunter, the history of which is lost, except that it is known to have been found in or near Whitby.* Some years ago, three wooden images, greatly mutilated, each about 14 inches high, were found in digging a drain near Ingleby Greenhoue, several feet below the surface. The figures were dressed in long robes; one of them, which was lately in the possession of Mr. Bird, had suppotted some instrument with the right arm, while a fold of the robe hung over the left. We may suppose them to be Saxon idols, buried here on the conversion of the Saxons ;f though it is perhaps * I did not know of this coin when the passage in p. 473, concernr ing the coin of Hadrian, was printed, lu 1816, a copper coin of Titus Vespasian was found in the vicarage garden at Onn*by. — Many old English coins have been found in the district. About 50 silver pieces ofElizabeth, James 1, and Charles I, were discovered some years a«o in an old house at Stokesley, where they were probably hid during the civil wars, f See p. 726, and the Note there.— No Roman statues or altars appear Iq have been discovered in the district. Charlton (p. •>, 65) tells us of a place near Sandseud, which he calls il Jai s-Dule, a name w iiich he derives from the worship of the along the back, or outer edge. To enumerate and describe all the varieties of these fossils, distinguished bv their shape, as globose, suh_lobo.se, or discoidai; by their lateral surface, as variously striated, ribbed, knob- bed, &.c.; by their backs, which are suicated, ridged, plain, &c; by their inner edges which are rounded, prominent, abrupt, &c. ; or by their colour, and other discriminating characters, — would carty us far beyond our limits. In many, l he outer shell, or considerable portions C?f it, may be seen entire; in a few, some fractures in the shell, anterior to iis petrifaction, are discernible; in a great number, the outer shell is gone, and the sutures of the chambers or the edges of their septa, are traced on the sides in the most beautiful foliated lines resembling the flowers of fancy needle-work, and often sparkling with a metallic lustre, through the ’mixture of pyrites. Such fossils, when cut longi- tudinally into two equal sections, often display a beauty beyond de- scription; the variegated cuic spar, which hits the chambers, lakes a high polish, and shews to great advantage the elegance of the sinuous septa, t ie siplititiele, and the regular spiral line of the volute. I shall otdy add, that these shells, particularly the ammonites, or snake-stones, are of all sizes from J or even § of an inch in diameter to 2 feet or up- wards: but those of the largest size are most rare. The belemnite, or thunderbolt , so called from ils resemblance to a dart, is a very common fossil in these rocks; but is rarely lonttd entire. This shell, in its perfect state, may be compared to a tall cyder glass with t lie foot broken oft’ and the end of the stalk sharpened to an obtuse point: the part corresponding with tire inside of the glass, called the alveolus, is divided into numerous chambers by thin septa pierced at one side by a siphunc e, which, as in (lie liautilites, com- municates with all the chambers . the remaining part of the shell is like a socket to contain this chambered part The septa, which are sometimes 24 in number, gradually diminish in size as they approach the apex; the interior or chambered part ending in a point, as well as the outer part: these partitions are like a number of little shallow cups, and when separated shew a fine polish like enamel. Their colour, which is that of the stalk, is generally brown, while the chambers are filled with white spar. The solid part of the stalk, that is, the part below the alveolus, is less than half the length ot the whole shell, when it is entire; this part, when broken across, exhibits a finely radiated texture: it is often found without the chambered part, 'these fossils vary in length from 2 or 3 incites to 10 or 12. Among the bands of iron-stone, in the aluminous scliistus, is one about 18 inches thick, containing vast numbers of pectinites, or petrified MINERALOGY. 783 scallop shells. A little below, there is on entire bed of oyster shells, so perfect as to display the colour and texture if the recent shells: they appear to be of the osirea c chilis, or common oyster species. Another stratum consists almost entirely o! shells of the carclium or cockle genus, chiefly resembling the carclium cdule, or common cockle; but marked with only 3 longitudinal ribs on each valve, and finely striated transversely. It is remarkable, that ihese three beds of shells occur in every place where the alum-rock is exposed, at the same depth, that is, about 200 feet from the top of the rock. Many other shells are distributed throughout I he great bed of aluminous schistus, but not in such numbers: among these may be noticed ,ome species of the teUina, the douax, and ti.e trochus ; and a curious little shell figured by Dr Grew, which he calls the high leaved conchites This bivalve is marked with deep and angular longitudinal furrows; in the middle of one valve is a high broad ridge, and there is a corresponding depression opposite to it in the other valve. The grypliitis occur in the lowest beds of the schistus, where the encrinite and pentacrinite are also found, hut are verv rare. Mr. Bird has a good specimen of the pentacrinite, found in the rock below Stoupe Brow, near low water mark. Fossil wood abounds in the alum-rock, and often accompanies animal bones, and the exuviae, of shell-fish. In some parts of the rock, whole trees have been found, with their principal roots and branches. In 1792, the slump of a tree, with all its loots, was dis- played on the rock at low water, a little to the east of Whitby harbour. A few years ago, the trunk of a tree was dug out of the rock at Sands- end alum-works, several feet in length, and 3 feet in circumference: it had partings corresponding with the fissures in the rock, and for the space of 2 inches on each side of such partings, the wood was in a soft friable state, like common decayed wood, retaining its inflamma- ble quality; while the intermediate parts were completely silicious. A polished transverse section of the silicious part finely displayed the concentric zones, or annual growths, of the tree : the colour was brown, clouded with streaks of pale grey, and veins of shining py- rites. Large trees have also been found at I.oftus alum-works, and various other places: branches and fragments occur in abundance. In some specimens the wood is agatized, and such are susceptible of a fine polish; in some the wood is almost wholly converted into pyrites; in others the ligneous fibres only are transmuted into stone, the pores and sap-vessels being left open; and in a few the bark is preserved, with all the cracks and fissures peculiar to the bark of old trees. Jet, which occurs also in considerable quantities in the aluminous bed, may be properly classed with fossil wood, as it appears to be wood in a high state of bituminization. Pieces of wood, impregnated with silex, are often found completely coated with a crust of jet, about an inch thick. But the most common form in which jet occurs is in compressed masses of from \ an inch to 2 inches thick, from 3 to 18 inches broad, and often 10 or 12 feet long. The outer surface is 784 STATISTICAL SURVEY. always marked with longitudinal striae, like the grain of wood, and the transverse fracture, which is couchoida! and has a resinous lu.stre, dis- plays the annual growths in compressed elliptical zones. It breaks more easily in a longitudinal direction, when it shews the ligneous fibres perfectly distinct. Its electric property is well known. The jet of our coasts was known to the ancients by the name gagatcs. Many have supposed this substance to be indurated pe- troleum, or mineral pitch ; but the facis now stated are sufficient to prove its ligneous origin. I he long compressed masses of jet Lave been trunks or branches of trees, that have been of a particular kind, or rather have passed through a peculiar process, in one stage of which, the wood when in a soft pulpy state has been pressed into the form of a flat cylinder, by the weight of the superincumbent mass. Where a core of silicious wood remains within the block, the process has been incomplete, being perhaps obstructed by an excess of silicious matter.* Such are the principal fossils contained in the aluminous schistus. The dogger that rests on it affords specimens of the ammonite., the belemnite, the trigonia davellata, and the cerithium spiratum. In some of the beds of indurated clay and ironstone, which al- ternate with the strata of sandstone, a number of donax-formed shells occur. Here also we meet w ith impressions of plants, chiefly of the cryptogamia class, but seldom corresponding exactly with any known species. One kind which abounds in the nodules of ironstone, and is also found in the sandstone, lias its leaves lanceolate, ribbed, alter- nate, and so close together that the upper edge of the first rests on ihe lower edge of the second A very rare ironstone fossil is in the possession of Dr. Campbell : it is an egg-shaped nut, 3 inches long and 2 inches thick ; the outside, which is of a dark brawn hue, is marked w ith high longitudinal ridges, and finely striated; the nucleus, which is seen at the top where part of the shell is broken, is compost d of a soft earth, like rotten stone, of a pale grey colour. The beds of bituminous shale, accompanying the coal seams, contain many beautiful impressions of plants, some of w hich resemble the asplenium ceterach and the ruta muraria , while others belong to species totally unknown. In a bed of sandstone, 4 or 5 feet thick, resting on the indurated clay or bituminous shale, are found curious fossil reeds, like bamboo.-. The only spot where they have been discovered is in the top oi the sea-cliff opposite High Whitby. The reeds are from an inch to near two inches in diameter, and are divided by joints placed at intervals of from 2 inches to 8 or 9 inches; and at each joint is a double band, of a dark brown colour, finely striated, and apparently fringed, as in the equiselum. The stalks rise perpendicular to the stratum, and parallel to one another, so that the reeds appear as in their natural * In some logs of wood of a particular kind, lately brought to Whitby from Port Jackson, a substance remarkably like iet was found in fissures or cracks, where the tree had begun to decay. MINERALOGY. 7*5 position : portions of the roots sometimes appear in the lower part of the bed, encircled with numerous striated zones of a dark brown or black colour, like the root of the equisetum: the tops, now gone, have risen greatly above the height of the stratum. Some of the stalks are much compressed : in some of them we see at the joints the knobs from whence the young branches issued. Other fossil plants of the cryptogamia class often appear in the sandstone; some of them have a great likeness to the pteris aquilina, or common brake, and others resemble the osmunda regalis. In the sandstone are also found some curious cylindrical fossils from 1 or 2 inches to 4 or 5 inches in diameter, and sometimes several feet in length. They have most resemblance to the tops of trees of the pine family, having a small round substance like the pith of trees passing up the ceutre, and the outer surface elegantly marked with small holes, placed in the quincunx form, like the impressions made in the young branches of the fir-tree by the roots of the leaves. These indented impressions are always alike in the same specimen, but vary in different specimens: in some, the mark is a minute circle, with a blunt cone or papilla rising from its centre; in others, it is like the pheon, or arrow-head, in heraldry. There are also specimens with waved lines, running between the rows of indented marks, and pre- senting a surface beautifully reticulated and dotted. Such fossils fre- quently occur in a compressed state : they are often met with in coal, in some parts of Britain. The sandstone contains fossil wood in various forms, but rarely in a compact state. In many specimens, the wood abounds with very hard crystals, supposed to be adamantine spar; in others, it is bitu- minized, like coal or jet, and divided with transverse fissures filled with decomposed calc spar in the form of a white powder; and, in not a few, the ligneous substance has become a soft black earth like soot, and when this is removed, there remains in the stone a cavity shaped like a splinter of wood. In the front of a rock at Haiburn Wyke, about 40 feet below the surface of the ground, is the stump of a tree about 3 feet long and 15 inches in diameter; having the roots, which are in the state of coal, fixed in a bed of indurated clay, apparently in their na- tural position; while the trunk, rising in a stratum of sandstone, is partly petrified, and partly in the state of decayed wood. — Near the top of the cliff between Whitby and Saltwick, and at Sandsend aium- works, and other parts of the coast, a bed of sandstone is observed, enclosing masses ot charcoal which cannot be distinguished from re- cently charred wood, either in texture, colour, or inflammability. While the extraneous fossils in our alum hills are so abundant and so interesting, those in the limestone range are likewise numerous, diversified, and beautiful. — In the calcareous sandstone near Scarbo- rough castle a great variety of shells occur, particularly ostracites and gryphites: of the former are the ostrea from, and ostrea di/uvi- ana. — Some of the limestone beds are almost an entire mass of shells, chiefly turbinated univalves, of a tapering form ; some very minute, 5 H ?86 STATISTICAL SURVEY. others 5 or 6 inches Ion*?. The small ones resemble the melania mar - ginata, figured by Parkinson, Vol. in PI v. Fig. 9. A bed of limestone near Scarborough castle abounds with minute shells of this description. In a quarry near Hutton Bushell are numbers of large shells, from 4 to 6 inches long, apparently of the murex genus, and spirally striated The limestone of Ayton, Hackness, Scamridge, &c. abounds with fossil shells, the substance of which appears to be calc spar, in a matrix of oolite, from which it is difficult to disengage them, so as to examine their figure. But in some old quarries, long exposed to the action of the atmosphere, the matrix is decomposed to a con- siderable depth, and the shells are left projecting from the surface, so that the face of the rock is like a wall of shell-work: a quarry in this state may be seen near Wrelton Even the alluvial clay contains its share of organic remains. Here we find, in blocks of marble, madrepores and other zoophytes, ■which might also have been noticed as occurring in the alum-rock. Here too we meet with nodules of flint enclosing echinites and curious spines of echini. Of these Mr. Bird has some excellent specimens. But perhaps the most singular fossils in the alluvial soil are elephants’ teeth. An enormous grinder, found near Robin Hood’s Bay, is in the possession of Jon. Sanders, Esq. It weighed about 13| pounds, tut has lost near a pound in weight since it was found, being now only 12 lib. 9 oz. The masticating surface measures 64 inches long, and 34 broad; the depth of the root at the back part is about 9 inches, mea- sured from the plane of the masticating surface, but it tapers away towards the front, where the depth is only 2| inches: the greatest, or diagonal, length is 12 inches; the greatest circumference, 2| feet. The plates seem to be agatized, the intermediate substance has the appearance of bone, of a yellowish colour; the whole is compact and susceptible of a fine polish. The masticating surface displays 8 entire double plates, of which that in the front seems nearly worn off; be- hind these are other four plates, consisting of two or more pieces, the last being only 4 small circles, placed in a row ; behind which, de- scending in a curved or rounded surface towards the root, are 7 or 8 similar rows, the rudiments of future plates, that would have grown up in process of time, had not the death of the animal intervened. It has been the grinder of an elephant of the species called the Asiatic. Near the same spot was found another tooth, similar in form, but in- ferior in size. Mr. Jas. Bathgate of Lofthouse had lately in his pos- session a grinder of the same kind, found near Loftus alum-works, weighing 4 lib. 2 oz. of a texture much less compact than that of Mr. Sanders, a number of cracks or fissures being between the plates and the intermediate substance. A few years ago, part of an elephant’s tusk was taken from the alluvial cliff near Scarborough spate: it was 18 inches long, and 5 inches diameter in the thickest part: .some of the ivory was tolerably sound, but of a yellowish colour; the exposed part was much rifted and split. MINERALOGY. 787 I shall close this article with remarking, that several gentlemen in the district have valuable collections of minerals and fossils. The best that I know of, perhaps the best in Yorkshire, is that of Tlios. Hinderwell, Esq., Scarborough. V. Mineral springs. From the description of the rocks in this district it is natural to expect that it should abound in mineral springs. The spaw waters of Scarborough have long been celebrated. About 150 years ago, their ingredients and their virtues were the oc- casion of a violent paper war between some medical gentlemen : the chief combatants were Dr. Wittie, Dr. Simpson, and Dr. Tonstal. Since that time. Dr. Short and several other learned gentlemen have written on the subject. The most recent and accurate analysis of these waters is that of Dr, Belcombe.* The springs are two in number, the south or salt well, and the north or chalybeate. The ingiedients to which they owe their effect are chiefly sulphate of magnesia, carbonate of lime, sulphate of lime, and carbonic acid gas: the magnesia, which abounds most in the south well, gives the water a purgative quality. They are much resorted to in summer, and their fame is not superior to their worth. — There is a spring of a similar nature at the foot of the cliff, between Whitby and Upgang. Some have preferred jt to the Scarborough springs. Its virtues were renowned in song 100 years ago;f but of late it has experienced unmerited neglect. This is partly owing to its fierce neighbour the ocean, which has not only washed down many years ago the house and other conveniencies built beside it, but has lately torn up and scattered the ponderous hewn stones that were laid to secure it; in consequence of which, this salu- brious fountain sometimes remains choked up for months together. A spring of the same qualities rises in Larpool wood on the top of the bank near the Cockmill road. A remarkable sulphureous spring issues from the aluminous schistus, on the south bank of the beck near Kilton mill. The water, according to experiments made by Mr Bathgate, contains carbonate of lime, sulphate of lime, a small portion of muriate of soda, with carbonic acid gas, and sulphureted hydrogen gas. It is sufficiently distinguished from the springs above mentioned by the absence of magnesia, and the presence of the sulphureted gas, which rises in bubbles that break on the surface, emitting a fetid smell, like that of rotten eggs as in the Harrowgate waters. One gallon of the water was found to be 72 grains heavier than a gallon of distilled water. When examined with a good thermometer, Oct 24, 1814, the temperature of the spring was at 52 while that of the atmosphere was only 44°. Upper Nor- manby spaw, in the vale of Pickering, described by Dr. Short, § ap- pears to belong to the same class. Petrifying springs, or springs depositing carbonate of lime, are very numerous, not only at the foot of the limestone hills, as at Eb- berstoh, &c. but even in the alum hills. Among the most remarkable * See Hinderwell’s Hist. p. 206. f See p. 637. Note. § P. 299. The Doctor also describes Whitby spaw, p. 279 ; and that of Newton Dale, p. 297, 5S2 788 STATISTICAL SURVEY. may be noticed, a spring in Kilton wood, a little to the south of the old castle; one in the pleasure grounds beside Wilton castle; one in Coatbank wood, near Egton; and one in Newton dale, near Salter- gate. At all of them are found large masses of petrified moss, or moss incrusted with lime; especially at the Newton dale spring, which is remarkably copious, and has covered with incrustations and stalac- tites, to a great extent, the side of the steep bank, near the top of wdiich it has its source. Here is a bath for the use of visitors, but it is partly choked up with stones. Perhaps these springs owe their petrifying quality to the mixture of iron with lime. That of Newton dale is strongly chalybeate, and the incrustations there are both more copious and more hard than those at the other springs. A scanty chalybeate spring that oozes from the alum rock beside Whitby east pier, at which there was formerly a bath built with brick, and which gave name to the spaw ladder, has converted into a solid mass of stone a quantity of clay mixed with stones, gravel, &c., in the north-east corner of the harbour. The tendency of iron to promote petrification is fully ascertained. The author has a piece of iron a foot long, found on the beach near Staiths, incrusted with stone formed of a mixture of clay and pebbles, the oxidation of the iron, with the mixture of other substances among which it has lain, having produced this petrifaction. A nail com- pletely incrusted with ferruginous sandstone, formed out of the sand among which it has been accidently deposited, is in the possession of Mr. Bird. An instance still more curious was discovered about two years ago; a hatchet incrusted with stone, with the wooden handle still fast in it, was found on the beach near Whitby : it is now in the possession of Thus. Fishburn, Esq. Chalybeate springs, depositing oxide of iron, occur in great abundance. Several of them are found at the alum-works, as at Eskdaleside and Little Beck. Of the other chalybeate springs, the most copious and remarkable are; a spring at the upper end of May- becks; one near Wheeldale beck; that called Fryop Trough; and that at Gerrick Hole, near Wapley: at which last there is a bath, formerly sheltered by a house, and furnished with conveniencies for the numerous visitors that once resorted thither. Some chalybeate spaws near Pickering were also in repute, in Dr. Short’s time; as at Middleton, nether Normanby, Cropton, &c.* A spring of this de- scription in Sleightholm dale, near Kirkby Moorside, has likewise obtained considerable credit. It is one of the petrifying springs. VI. General observations. Having briefly surveyed the materials of which our hills are composed, the order of their strata, and the most interesting fossils aud mineral products which they fur- nish, it will be proper to add a few general and miscellaneous remarks which could not be placed under any of the foregoing heads. It has been already intimated, that the strata are not uniform and continued, but are in some parts interrupted, and in others broke* * See the Doctor’s work, p. 280, 299. MINERALOGY. 789 or washed away. The breaking down or washing away of the strata may be seen in several places alone; the coast, in the vale ot the Esk and on the sides of other valleys, but most of all in the hills facing the plain of Cleveland. Here the continuation of the upper beds has been destroyed, so that, the fronts of the hills present sections of the stratifi- cation, like the cliffs on the shore; as if the plain of Cleveland had once been the bed of the ocean, and the front of these hills had been sea-cM's. The plains are covered with a thick bed, composed of al- luvial clay and sand alternating with each other, containing rounded nodules of granite, coal, and almost all kinds of stone: and in some places there are beds of sand, exactly like l he sands on the shore, laid in a stratified form, with seams of small coal intermixed. On the south bank of the 1'ees in the estate of .1. Lowther, Esq., and near the village of Lazenby, a considerable bed of gypsum occurs, over which lies a thick stratum of red clay marl. But on the shore at Sallburn and Redcar we see a portion of the proper strata of the district uncovered, consisting of the lowest beds of the alum-rock, the superincumbent strata belonging to the alum hills having been all washed away. Though the rock at these places corresponds, in its substance, tex- ture, and extraneous fossils, with the lowest visible parts of the alumi- nous schistus, as seen at RockclilF, Boulby, and other places; yet the stratum descends much lower, even to a depth hitherto unexplored. In 1788, Sir Charles Turner bored for coals in a field adjoining to Coatharn ; but though the boring reached the depth of between 40 and 50 fathoms, nothing was found but the blue clay slate, or aluminous schistus. About 70 or 80 years ago, Zach. Moore, Esq. then proprie- tor of Lofthouse alum-works, bored for coals on the sea side, near the new alum-house, but without success. Similar trials were made by Lord Dundas in 1794, and others have been made since on various estates; but all with the same result, the beds below the aluminous schistus having never yet been reached.* The slip which occurs in the channel of the Esk has been men- tioned as a remarkable interruption of the strata; but a much greater slip appears to have taken place in the channel of the Tees, for, while the bed of alum rock at Redcar and Coatharn extends outwards to a great distance towards the channel of the Tees, the opposite rocks at Hartlepool, on the other side of the channel, belong to a very different series, consisting of oolite limestone, sandstone, and indurated marls. These rocks cannot belong to the strata beneath the aluminous schistus, which has been found by the borings at Coatharn to descend 40 or 50 fathoms below their level ; and as they correspond with the strata in our limestone hills, it is reasonable to suppose, that, on the north side of the * Hence we may infer, that the small coals thrown up in such quantities on Marsk sands are not the produce of a submarine stratum, as some suppose, but are drifted from the mouths of the Wear and the Tyne by th 3 force of the tide, which on this coast flows from the north. This drifted coal was ga- thered here some centuries ago, as appears from the Cottonian M.S. quoted in Graves’s History of Cleveland, p. 399. The same M.S. notices the stra- tum of gypsum as a “rocke of excellent plaist?r.” 790 STATISTICAL SURVEY. channel of the Tees, the %vliole of the first series of strata appearing in our alum hills must have sunk down to such a depth as to bring tiie limestone series to the level of the lowest visible parts of the great aluminous bed. On this supposition, the slip must appear prodigious, when we take into account the height of the hills that intervene be- tween the Tees and the limestone range in the south part of our district. It might form a subject of curious investigation, to inquire, whether the strata on the north of the Tees may not be a repetition of those on the south, at an inferior altitude ; whether the seams of coal in our district may not be considered as the thin edges of those immense beds of coal which, owing to the rise of the strata towards the north, become accessible near the rivers Wear and Tyne; and whe- ther there may not exist beneath those coal beds a stratum of alu- minous schistus, corresponding with the vast stratum in our hills. To attempt to account for all the phenomena which occur here in the mineral kingdom would he an arduous task, yet a few hints on the subject may perhaps he acceptable to the lovers of geology. In investigating these phenomena, it is necessary to look back to the era of the deluge, when “all the fountains of the great deep were broken up,” and when the primitive surface of the earth must have sunk down, that the waters might cover it. At this breaking up of the outer crust of our globe, which was perhaps effected by volcanic force, the primitive rocks would ho torn from their bases, and in many instances broken into numerous fragments, while other substances near the surface would he dissolved and jumbled together, and the confused mixture of mineral, vegetable, and animal matter, thus produced, would be tossed about with great violence by the shoreless ocean which then overflowed the world, and would be deposited in layers, or strata, in the twelve months during which the deluge lasted ; especially towards the close of that period. That this deposition would produce such strata as we now see, may be inferred from an attentive consideration of our sandy beach, a section of which, cut by any stream from the cliff, represents in miniature the stratification of the coast. The substances held in solution by the waves are found deposited, in layers of various thicknesses, not exactly according to their specific gravities, nor with the regularity of art, but in beds for- tuitously arranged ; yet so as considerable quantities of the same kind of substance are thrown together in each particular bed. In like manner, in the grand deposition at the deluge, beds of different kb ds would he formed, on a scale immensely great, proportioned to the vastness of the then boundless ocean, and the quantity of matter which it held in solution. Here a large deposit of clay would form the basis of a future alum-rock: there, a layer of sand would serve as the ground-work of rocks of sandstone: in one place, a vast bed of shells would become the rudiments of limestone rock: in another, an accumulation of wood, with which and with shell-fish the old world may have greatly abounded, would be so disposed as to be changed by a future process into a seam of cogl. Among such beds, th? MINERALOGY. 791 animals and vegetables of the former world would be variously distri- buted, either forming layers by themselves, or thrown promiscuously into the other layers; and while their softer parts were dissolved, the more solid, as wood, bones, and exitvice of shell fish, would be pi - e- served ; especially when they were lodged in a matrix adapted for their preservation. If the beds began to be deposited within the first or second month of the deluge, some of them might acquire a considerable degree of firmness before the expiration of the year; especially where the affinities of their component parts tended to consolidate them. We may suppose them to have been at fiisl nearly paraliel to the horizon, at least in their upper parts, where the in- equalities of their foundations would disappear: but they were des- tined to undergo important changes. The subsiding of the waters would materially disturb their order, and in many cases destroy their regularity : for we cannot suppose the waters of the deluge to have dried u;> by mere evaporation; nay, it is expressly stated, that dur- ing this process “the fountains of the deep were stopped;” which implies, that as the waters occupying the interior of our globe had burst forth to overwhelm the surface, so now those waters were ab- sorbed into their deep recesses; and consequently, the surface which had sunk down when they issued forth, was raised up as they retired. Mow, though the subsiding of the flood must have been more gra- dual than its rise, yet it could not take place without greatly dis- ordering the new-formed strata ; especially as volcanic agency was probably again employed to raise the surface, and restore the waters to their subterraneous fountains. In this convulsion, the crust of the earth would again be broken, though with less violence than before; the strata would generally lose their horizontal position, and dip towards one side; vast portions would sink down and become the bed of the ocean, and the parts from which they were violently torn would be left in the form of abrupt cliffs; large cracks or fissures would be produced by the volcanic heat, at some of which, as at the channels of the Esk and the Tees, the strata on one side of the crack would slip down in a mass from the strata on the other, w hile through other fissures lava or basalt would be protruded, as in our whinstone ridge. At the same time, the strata being yet in a plastic state would be liable !o be thrown into an undulating form; for their undulations are not merely such as arise from variations in the thickness of the beds, but are waving elevations and depressions of the whole stratifed mass: and portions of this mass would be bro- ken off and washed away by the current of the retiring waters, par- ticularly at the slips of the strata, where a violent shock must have been sustained. The retiring current would hold in solution a quan- tity of sand, gravel, clay, vegetable mould, and other substances, the depositions or accumulations of which wo: Id form the alluvial soil. The uniformity of the appearance of the hills, with gentle de- clivities on one side and steep cliffs on the other, would naturally result from the direction of the impulse given to the whole stratified 792 STATISTICAL SURVEY. mass in any one region, and the general direction of the current irt that region. In our district the current has flowed from the south or south-west. The conical hills are those from whence the strata have been swept away all around, leaving only a portion in the midst : and the substance thus carried off would be left in other spots as alluvial clay. The current would naturally hollow out val- leys, as we may see illustrated on a lesser scale in our sands; and these valleys, with the hollows produced by the slips, would become the channels of rivers: and as the waters did not subside all at once, and probably did not reach their proper level for many years after the deluge, some of the present plains might long remain under water ; which will account, for the secondary stratification formed in Cleve- land, and other parts, over those lower beds of the former stratifi- cation, from whence the upper strata had been previously swept away. It would lead into discussions of too great length, to enquire how the cracks or veins produced by the drying of the strata might be filled up with crystals, formed of substances washed down by the rains; and how various kinds of beds might be turned into rocky strata of different species; and what secondary changes might be subse- quently effected. The hints now offered may furnish a kind of gene- ral theory of the earth, calculated to explain the principal phenomena that occur here in the mineral kingdom ; and the mind of the scientific reader may easily trace the subordinate ramifications. I shall only add, that the effects of volcanic agency are not un- known in this district in modern times. In the night of April 19lh. 1754, at 11 o’clock, as I find from a memorandum left by the late Wm, Kitchingman, Esq. of Sneaton, a shock of an earthquake was felt at Whitby and the neighbourhood, so violent as to rattle the china-ware in the houses: it shook the ground with an undulating motion, and was accompanied with a loud rumbling noise, t hat went off with a twang. The weather for some time before had been un- settled and tempestuous. To volcanic agency may also be ascribed this remarkable phenomenon, that on the 17th of July 1761, the tide rose and fell, at Whitby, four times in an hour. II. BOTANY. In a district so much diversified with hills and dales, moors and plains, the student of botany cannot fail to have an ample field for research. Nature has enriched the soil with a pleasing 1 variety of vegetable productions, (he most rare and interesting of which are comprised in the following list.* * A great part of this catalogue was furnished by Wm. Middleton, Esq., late of Sleights. The author has also been much assisted in this department by Dr. Campbell and Mr. Wm. Hunter. BOTANY. 793 Class Order Genus Species I. II. III. 1. IV. V. VI. X. English name Where found Salicornia herbacea Jointed glasswort Shore near Upgang Ligustruir. vulgar e Privet Newholm bei k Circma Lutetiana Enchanter’s nightshade Cockmill wood Veronica montana Mountain speedwell Near Sleights hederifolia Ivy-leaved Ruswarp Salvia verbenaca Wild clary East-Row Scirpus paucifiorus Chocolate headed club-rusli Sleights moor sylvaticus Wood Egton bridge Eriophorumuayinatum Single-headed cotton grass Sneaton moor Melica nutans Mountain melic-grass Common Poa distans Reflexed meadow grass Banks of the Esk — mi aritima Creeping sea Runswick Bay — procumbens Procumbent Do. Festuca rubra Creeping fescue -grass Do. Barren Aislaby moor Spiked — — - — Tall VII. 1. VIII. 1. 3. 4. Egton bridge Sleights mill Iburn Dale Smooth rye brome-grass Wild oat Corn fields, common White darnel Do. not common Sea hard-grass Boghall Dwarf cornel Hole of Horcum Woodlands [doubtful if wild] Whitby Cliffs Esk banks, frequent. Sneaton low moor Mulgrave Woods Wood near Dunsley Esk banks, Mulgr. Woods XII. 4. 1 . 5. bromoides loliacea elatior Bromus secalinus Avena fatua Lolium arvense Rotbollia incurvata Cornus Suecica Borago officinalis Common borage Primula elatior Oxlip Campanula latifolia Giant bell-flower Viola palustris Marsh violet Verbascum Thapsus Great mullein Euonymus Europtsus Spindle tree Scandix odorata Great chervil Parnassia palustris Grass of Parnassus Whitby cliffs Drosera rotundifolia Round-leaved sun-dew Randay mere Narcissus pseudo narcissus Daffodil Egton-Godeland Nartheciuin ossifragum Lancashire asphodel Aislaby moor J uncus maximus Wood rush Whitby liniger Flaxen — Do. Trientalis europaa Chickweed winter-green Randay mere Daphne laureola Spurge laurel Larpool wood Polygonum bistorta Great bistort Esk banks, &c. Paris quadrifoiia Herb Paris Larpool wood Adoxa moschatellina Tuberous moschatel Sleights, &e. Pyrola media* Intermediate winter-green Mulgrave woods, &c. Chrysosplenium alternifolium Alternate-leaved sen-green Common . . . . . oppositifolium Opposite-leaved . . . Do. Saxifraga granulata White saxifrage Cockmill — Ruswarp . . . tridactylites Rue leaved. . . Do. Arenaria peploides Sea sandwort Boghall . . . marina Sea spurry Do. Cerastium telrandum Tetrandrous mouse-ear Along the coast Bird cherry Growmond bridge Burnet rose Cockmill wood Apple . . . Esk banks Crosscliff (W. Middleton, Esq.) Dew-berry Esk banks Trailing tormentil Common Traveller’s joy Near Whitby Globe-flower Esk banks Prunus padus Rosa spinosissima . . villosa . . rubella Rubus ccesius Tormentilla reptans XIII. 7. Clematis vitalba Trollius europceus * A species very recently discovered. Campbell, and Mr, Wm. Hunter. 5 I It was first noticed here by Dr. 794 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Class Order Genus Species English name Where found XIV. 1. Galeobdolon luteum Yellow dead-nettle Common Origanum vulgare Common marjoram Mulg. & Pick, castks 2. Bartsia odontites Red bartsia Stainsacre Latliraaa squamaria Greater tooth-wort Newbegin — Sleights Scrophularia aquatica Water fig-wort Esk banks XV. 1. Lepidium latifolium Broad-leaved pepper-wort Sandsend Cochlearia armoracia Horse-radish Ruswarp 2. Cardainine amara Bitter ladies’-smoek Newbegin Brassica oleracea Sea cabbage Cliffs at Whitby & Staiths XVI. 2. Geranium sylcaticum Wood crane’s-bill Mulgrave woods . . . . males folium Mallow leaved . . Near Whitby . . . . cicutarium Hemlock . . Ruswarp 3. Malva moschata Musk mallow Eskdale XVII. 1. Fumaria capreolata Ramping fumitory Near Whitby . . . claviculata White climbing . . Arncliff wood 3. Genista tinctoria Dyer’s green weed Whitby cliffs . . Anglica Needle .... Cawthorn camps Lathy rus latifolius Broad -leaved everlasting pea Boghall . . . . sylvestris Narrow-leaved do. Near Scarborough Vicia sylvatica Wood vetch Cliffs — Mulgrave woods. . . . bithynica Rough-podded purple . . Upgang beck XVIII. 1. Hypericum andresamum Tutsan Larpool wood— Kilton wood . . . • humifusum Trailing St. John’s wort Common Wood hawkweed Ibum dale Mountain . . . Do Alpine .... Arncliff wood Slender-flowered thistle Common Milk . . . Runswick Woolly headed . . . Hackness Mountain cud-weed Egton moors Livid groundsel Common golden -rod Elecampane Star thistle XIX. 1. Hieracium sylvaticum . . . . paludosuyn . . . . villosvm Carduus tenuifiorus . . . . marianus . . . eriophorus 2. Gnaphalium dioicum Senecio lividus * Solidago virgaurea Inula helenium Centaurea calcitrapa Abounds near Whitby Larpool wood Near Growmond bridge Sandsend XX. 1. Orchis bifolia . . conopsea Satyrium albidum Ophrys nidus-avis . . cor data Butterfly orchis Aromatic . . . White satyrion Bird’s -nest ophrys Least twaj blade apifera Bee ophrys anthropofera Green man . . . muscifera Fly . . XXI. 3. Carex pauciftora Few flowered sedge curta White . . axillaris Axillary. . . . pendula Great pendulous fulva Tawny .... binervis Green-ribbed . vesicaria Short-spiked bladder . . . ampullacea Slender-beaked . 4. Betula alba Common birch Egton Banks of the Mirk Esk Newton dale Dunsley Aislaby moor Carrmount Newbegin Kirkby Moorside Near Lilia cross Sleights moor Do. Mulgrave woods— Sleights Hole of Horcum Aislaby moor . . . Randav mere . . DoJ Moors XXII. 1. Salix rosmarinifolia Rosemary-leaved willow Saltergate 3. Hippophae rhamnoides Sea buckthorn Cliff near Upgang Myrica gale Sweet gale Abounds on the moors Humulus lupulus Hop Arncliff wood, &c. XXIV.l. Equisetum sylvaticum Wood Horse tail Maybecks * Not known to be a British plant till observed here by W. Middleton, Esq. BOTANY. 795 Cla3s Order Genus Species English name Where found XXIV. 1. Equisetum hyemale Shave-grass Cockmiil wood Osmunda reyalis Flowering fern Beckhole . . . . lunaria Moon-wort Near Swarthoue Lycopodium selago Fir-club moss Aislaby moor . . . . atpinum Savin-leaved . . Do. Polvpodium dryopteris Tender 3 branched polypody Arncliff wood Aspidium oreopteris Heath shield tern Wheeldale Asplenium lanceolutum Lanceolate spleenwort Mulgrave castle Hymenophyltum Tunbridgense Filmy- leaved fern Eskdaleside, The marine alga: on this coast are numerous. About 50 species 9, not less than 16 works were going forward, em- ploying about GO pans, which might yield an annual produce of 5000 tons, or upwards. The business had now reached its utmost height; the prices declined, in proportion as the market became over-stocked, anil though in 1767, 20.2k per toil had been obtained, the price feil to 14/. in 1769, and to 13k in 1770 and 1771. In the anticipation of this ruinous fall, an attempt w as made in 1769, to form a mutual agreement between the proprietors, limiting the number of pans at each woik, so as the whole might not exceed 40. and the annual pro- duce might be fixed at about 3200 tons; but, for want of unanimity among the parties concerned, the scheme did not take effect, and the depression therefore continued, till, through the bankruptcy of some proprietors, and the serious losses of others, the works at Ayton, Godeland Banks,* Carleton, Osmotherley, Saltburu, and Pleasingtou, were successively stopped. This diminution of the number of works, with some reduction at the remaining works, brought down the quan- tity annually manufactured to about 3000 tons; yet the price was little improved till after tile close of the American war, when it rose to 22/. but it afterwards dropped to 18/.; which was the price in 1759 and 1790. Since that time, considerable fluctuations have taken place: about She beginning of this century, alum rose to 2 61. and even # Godeland Ranks started again in 1786 . MANUFACTURES. 817 27/. per ton, but it fell again to 20/.; and, on the whole, the trade has never been so brisk as to encourage the erection or restoration of other works: on the contrary, the works at Salt wick, Guisborough, Godeland Banks, and Little Beck, have been given up. The price was lately 23^6’. ; at present it can scarcely be quoted at more than o£20. This price would have been reckoned good, 30 years ago, when labour, coals, &c. were j cheaper; but, as circumstances now are, the price could not remunerate the manufacturer, were it not that the recent improvements in alum-making furnish a greater produce from the same quantity of materials. The present state of the manufacture may be seen from the fol- lowing table, exhibiting the annual produce of the works now carried on, estimated on an average of the last 12 years. Works Proprietors Average Annual Produce. Peak and Stoupe Brow Messrs Cooke 300 tons Eskdaleside H. W. Yeoman, Esq. 270 Sandsend Rt. Hon. Earl Mulgrave 45 5 Kettleness Ditto 455 Boulby Messrs Baker & Jackson 450 Lofthouse Rt. Hon. Lord Duudas 910 Total annual average 2840 tons. Iu the last two or three years, the quantity has greatly exceeded this average, at least the quantity shipped; for the alum shipped in 1815 amounted to 3077 tons, and in 1816, to 3155 tons. Little is exported to foreign parts, nearly the whole being sent to London; yet in former times the exportation was considerable, amounting in 1790 to 1232 tons. The number of the workmen employed varies according to cir- cumstances; but the whole number now belonging to the works, in- cluding boys and artificers, may be estimated at about 600. Their wages seldom exceed 3s. per day ; but they enjoy, in addition, several valuable privileges; among which, a little garden assigned to each family, deserves to be noticed. Earl Mulgrave has distinguished him- self in making provision for the comfort of his workmen.'* The remaining 1 works and manufactures of the district will not require to be so minutely examined. Little more than a bare list of them can be presented. Coal-pits. The thin seams of coal in our district have been wrought upwards of 70 years; and, though much inferior in quality * The materials for the above account of the alum-works have been chiefly taken from Mr. Winter’s Essay in Nicholson’s Journal for April, 1810; from communications furnished by John Ridley, Esq., Mr. Bathgate, Mr. Dodds, and the, gentlemen of the Custom House; and from the papers of the late Ephraim Jowsey, a' noted alum-maker. 5 M 818 STATISTICAL SURVEY. to the coals near the Wear and the Tyne, have been of great service to the inland parts of the country. The principal coal-pits now carried on are those of Danby, Blakey, and Rudland. The seam at Danby pits (or Custleton pits, as they are often called) is 17 inches thick; at Blakey, 12 inches; and at Rudland, 9 inches The depth from the surface at Danby varies from 15 yards to 60 yards; at the other pits, the seam, though thinner, i# nearer the surface. The Danby pits employ about 40 or 50 people, who may furnish daily, on an average, from 200 to 300 bushels, or upwards sold at the pit for 4d. per bushel. The other two work# are less extensive. — A new coal work has recently commenced, at the head of Fryop ; another was lately wrought at the upper part of Glazedale. Coals are also dug out of the cliff at Hawsker Bottoms, and at a few other places, where the seam is so thin as scarcely to compensate the labour of working. Lime-works. The whole range of the limestone hills abound* with kilns of various sizes and descriptions. In many parts the far- mers have kilns for the use of their own farms: in other places, as at Silphoue, Ayton, Hutton Bushell, Thornton, Pickering, Lockton, Hut- ton-in-the-Hole, &c., there are lime-works on an extensive scale, for the supply of the public. The lime is generally inferior to that im- ported from Sunderland : that which is made in the kilns along the coast, from the Flamborough limestone, is reckoned superior to both,, and is sold at Upgang, &c. at 26s. per chaldron.* Freestone quarries. The quarries of this description are also numerous, particularly in the alum hills. The most remarkable are those of Aislaby, Ugglebarnby, Sleights Brow, Little Ayton, High-Cliff Nab, and Burniston. Aislaby quarries furnish large and durable stones, excellently adapted for building piers, &c. From these quarries the piers at Whitby have been principally built, and great quantities of the stones have been shipped at Whitby, within these few years, for the piers of Margate and Ramsgate, the founda- tions of the Strand bridge, &c. Manufactories of Roman cement. Three manufactories of this article, called terras, have been recently established, connected with the alum-works of Sandsend, Loflhouse, and Peak. That of Earl Mulgrave was set on foot in 1811, in consequence of observations made by Mr. Atkinson of London, and some successful experiments tried by Mr. Sowerby. The stones from which the terras is prepared are the lenticular nodules noticed in p. 772. These are burnt in a kiln; then broken, and pounded with stampers, and lastly ground to powder in a mill. This powder, which when mixed up properly with water forms a durable cement, is sold at from 4 to 5s. per bushel. The other two manufactories were erected soon after. In that of Lord Dundas, the mill used for grinding the terras is wrought by a steam-engine, the first and only steam-engine in Cleveland. * See p. 802, 803. MANUFACTURES. 819 Before quitting the works connected with the mineral kingdom, it may be proper to notice, that there was an iron forge, a few years ago, in the vale of the Derwent, between Hackness and Ay ton. A great deal of ironstone has of late been shipped at Whitby for Newcastle.* A manufactory of Prussian blue was established by Lord Dundas, beside his alum-works, in 1807; but, not turning out well, it was given up in 1812; since which period, Mr. Davidson, who con- ducted the business for his lordship, has carried it on at Skelton, upon a small scale. Two paper-mills are carried on ; that of Mr. Wm. Joy at Lealholm Bridge, where above 56 cwt. of paper may be annually made ; and that of Mr. Cbas. Nicholls, at Ellerburn, where the yearly amount exceeds 80 cwt. There are at present 3 oil-mills, for preparing rape oil, and linseed oil; that of Mr. H. Richardson, at Ay ton; that of Mr. P. Heselton, at the same place, formerly a cotton mill;f and that of Mr. Caleb Fletcher, erected on the site of Keldholm priory, where the same gentleman has also a flax mill . — There was lately an oil- mill, on a small scale, near Sleights; and the corn-mill now occupied by Mr. T. Anderson, at Lower Stakesby, was once an oil-mill. — The corn-mills of the district are too numerous to be particularised : most of them are driven by water, but there are also not a few wind-mills. The district contains 13 tan -yards, besides the 2 at Whitby; viz. 2 at Scarborough ; 3 at Ay ton in Cleveland; and L at each of the following places. Sleights bridge. Greenhouses, West Barnby, Orms- by, Langbargh, Thornton, Pickering, and Kirkby Moorside. — There are 6 skinner ies; but 2 or 3 of them are also tanneries, contained in the above list. There are at least 8 bleach-fields, besides those connected with the sailcloth manufactories: they are situated at Easby, Kildale, Commondale, Glazedale, Lease-rigg, Costa Mills, and at Ellerburn, where there are two. In addition to the 4 breweries in Whitby, there are 15 com- mon breweries in the district; viz. 3 at Scarborough, 2 at Pickering, 2 at Guisborough, and 1 at each of these places. East Row, Lofthouse, Kirkleatham, Ayton in Cleveland, Stokesley, Kirkby Moorside, Eb- berston, and Brompton. There are 18 tallow-chandlers, of whom 5 are in Scarborough; besides 5 in Whitby, making 23 in all. — To which 1 may add, that there are throughout the district (exclusive of Whitby), dealers in ale and porter, 308; in spirits, 207; in wine, 58; in tea and coffee, 314; and in tobacco. 479, The sum total of each may be found by adding those of Whitby, given in p. 577. The remark made in the Note there, is necessary to he remembered here, that the same individuals or firms often deal jn all or most of these articles at the same time. * The numerous forges existing in the days of the monks have already been noticed ; p. 758, 759. Notes, -f Some years ago a cotton-mill was car-, risd on by Mr. Sanderson, between Handale and Scaling. 5M? 820 STATISTICAL SURVEY. III. FISHERIES. The fisheries on this coast are an important source of wealth and sustenance to the inhabitants, and de- serve to be noticed more fully than our limits allow. Whilby in the time of Leland was “ a great fisehar toune”, but it has completely changed its character; for, in 1816, it was found to contain only 9 fishermen and 3 fishmongers. The great fisher towns of our coast, at present, are Staiths, Runswick, and Robin Hood's Bay; which last is called by Leland “a fisehar tounlet of 20 bootes.” The boats which he speaks of were probably cobles or small boats: for, though the large boats, called five-men boats, were then employed, as the Cottonian MS. quoted by Mr. Graves,* mentions “a five-man cobble” belonging to Skinningrave, formerly a considerable fishing town; yet we find from the same MS. where it describes the fishery at Redear, t that the boats generally used were cobles containing three men, each of which cobles was so small that “twoe Men could easily carrye ytt on Lande betweene them.” The cobles of that time were therefore smaller and weaker than those now in use, a remark which will equally apply to the five-men boats. The modern cobles are 25 or 26 feet long, and 5 broad, with a bottom nearly flat, and a very- sharp stem: they are between 1 and 2 tons burthen; and have a mast occasionally “stepped,” with a “ lug sail.” The five-men boats are 46 ft. long, 16 ft. 8 in. broad, 6 ft. 3 in. deep, clincher built, and sharp bottomed ; they have one deck, with a large hatchways in the middle; measure about 58 tons; have three masts, carry four sails, and are generally swift sailers. There are,at present 28 five-men boats employed on this coast, viz 14 belonging to Staiths; 6, to Runswick; 5, to Robin Hood’s Bay; and 3, to Scarborough. § The number was more considerable three years ago, six large boats having been lost during that time, and not yet replaced. Each large boat is provided with 2 cobles, besides which, there is nearly an equal number of fishing cobles, for the winter fishing, and several other cobles, not connected with the large boats, employed both in summer and winter; among which are some lobster boals, used near the shore for catching crabs and lobsters. The number of cobles, belonging to our three great fishing towns, including the cobles attached to the large boats, may be nearly as follows : Staiths, 70, Runswick, 35; and Robin Hood’s Bay, 35; in all 140: to which if we add the cobles of Scarborough, Whitby, Sandseud, Skinningrave, Saltburn, Marsk, Redcar, &c. the total number of cobles along the coast will be found to be from 250 to 300. These boats are not all in employment at one time ; for the large boats are laid up at Whitby during winter, and the cobles attached to * Hist, of Cleveland, p. 369. f Ibid. p. 400. § There are also several large boats belonging to Filey, Flamborough, and other places to the south of this district. Saudsend and T.edcar had formerly five-men boats. FISHERIES. 821 them are laid up at home.* They go to sea in March, and unless inter- rupted by the weather, their method is to go out on Monday morning, and return with their produce on Friday night or Saturday morning. Each large boat usually carries 7 people; viz. 5 men who have shares, one man who has half a share, and a boy who is allowed a small sum. Of the five men wdio have shares, one is usually the owner of the buai ; the other 4, with himself, are joint proprietors of the fishing gear, viz. the cobles, lines, nets, &c. A new boat w ill cost about =£600, or up- wards; and the fishing gear, necessary for a boat, may be valued at cf’100 more, or d. 20 for each man; the half-share man having no property in the gear. The proceeds of each fishing expedition are divided into 6 parts, or rather 61: 1 share is assigned to the owner for the boat, 1 share to each of the o men, and the half share to the 6th man Consequently, if the owner is one of the five men, he has 2 shares, 1 for the boat, and 1 for himself as a fisherman. Fishing with nets is rarely practised on Ibis coast, except in taking herrings, and mackarel. The net is placed upright in the water, near the surface, being supported by corks at the top; one end is made fast to the boat, while the other reaches across the current. The larger fishes are taken with strong hemp lines, which are of two kinds, the common lines, and the haavres. A common line is about 200 fathoms long; furnished w ith from 14 to 20 score of hooks, attached to the line by the same number of snoods, each a yard long, arid placed at equal distances. The haavres are of the same length, but stronger, and have only from 90 to 100 hooks: the hooks are larger, and are pi iced at greater distances, being used for taking the larger kinds of fish, f These hooks are baited with pieces of herrings, haddocks, or other small fishes, while the common hooks are usually baited with mussels, sand-eels, &c. The task of procuring the mussels and sand-eels, and of baiting the hooks, before the boats go to sea, devolves principally on the women. Each fisherman has generally 3 lines, which are carefully coiled up on an oval flat piece of wicker-work, called a skep, the baited hooks being laid regularly at one end. It is common, w r hen going to sea in the large boats, where the haavres are chiefly used, to take a greater quantity of lines. The haavres are coiled on a round piece of w icker-work, called a swaitch; their hooks are always baited at sea, in shooting them. The fishing ground is chosen at various distances, between the coast and the Dogger Bank. On arriving at the ground, the large boat is anchored, and its two cobles are employed in shooting the lines, stretching them across the current, and sinking them with small anchors, or perforated stones. As the lines belonging to each boat are fastened to one another, so as to make one range, or at the most two ranges, they reach to a great extent : buoys of cork, &c. are placed along the range. The lines are shot and hauled twice a day, or sometimes only once. These operations are carried on by the cobles, while the large boats serve as store-houses and dwelling-houses; being * The Scarborough boats are laid up at Scarborough, f The term Jiaavre may be derived from the Swedish word baf — the main sea. 822 STATISTICAL SURVEY. furnished with beds, fires, & c. — The cobles not connected with the large boats, fish after the same form; but, not having the same ac- commodations, they seldom venture so far from the shore, and are forced to return more frequently to land. The large boats will live in a very heavy sea; yet fatal accidents too frequently occur to the fishermen: one of the most melancholy ever known was that of Friday, April 14, 1815, when 3 Runswick boats and 1 Staiths boat, containing in all 29 persons, peiished in a tremendous storm.* The kinds of fish that are caught with lines are chiefly, cod, ling, holibut, turbot, haddock, coal-fish, and skate; to which we may add, whiting, pollack, toisk, thornback, sole, plaice, flounder, dab, gurnard, and a few others. The holibut, turbot, and skate are among the largest of these fishes. The holibut sometimes weighs 17 stone, or eten 20 stone; the turbot, 10 or 12 stone, and often more; the skate is some- times about the same size ; cod and ling seldom exceed 3 stone. Great quantities of cod, and ling, are cut up and dried during the summer. t The amount varies greatly in different years, but the average quantity may be stated at 6 tons of dried fish for each large boat,§ or from 150 to 180 tons in all. About 500 or 550 fish are re- quired to make a ton. The London merchants, or their agents, pur- chase them on the spot at from 20 to 30o£. per ton in good years: at present, the price is only from 1 3 to 20o£. But by far the greater part of the fish caught during summer is sold fresh; furnishing an abundant supply to the markets of Whitby, Scarborough, Newcastle, &c. from whence, particularly from Whitby, great quantities are for- warded to the interior in every direction; Mallon, York, Leeds, &c. being supplied from this coast, by means of pannier-men and other fish-carriers. The amount of fresh fish thus disposed of, exceeds, on an average, 30 tons annually for each large boat; besides what is caught by the cobles not connected with those boats. The herring fishing on the coast commences about August, and is often very productive. Sometimes a large boat will take 10 last, or more, in a season ; nay, in some instances, 3 or 4 last have bees caught by a boat’s crew in one night. These herrings are sold fresh, at Whitby and other markets.— But the grand herring fishery is car- ried on at ^ armouth, tq which station all our large boats repair in the autumn. This important expedition, for which considerable prepara- tions are necessary, usually lasts 6 weeks ; the boats setting out in the middle of September, and returning at the beginning of November. Each boat generally carries an additional man, who is paid bv the voyage. The average annual produce of this fishery may amount to 30 lasts || for each boat, being in some years 40 or 50, or even 60, in others only 20, 15, or under. The price of course varies: 7 or 8£. * See an account of the subscription for the sufferers, p. 629, 630. f Skates and coal-fish are also often dried, but only for the home market. ^ The proportion for Robin Hood’s Bay and Scarborough is less, the boats there selling more fresh fish. || A last is 10,000 herrings. In counting them; 6 score and 12 are reckoned to make a hundred, at Yarmouth; 6 score and 1 are counted to the hundred, on the Whitbj coast. FISHERIES . 823 per last may be the average price at Yarmouth, where the herrings are sold and cured. On their return from Yarmouth, the large boats are laid up for the winter, and the winter Cobles are used till March following. A coble carries 3 men, furnished with 3 lines each: the 6 men, forming the complement for a large boat, are therefore sufficient to man two cobles, but in this season the partnerships are otten changed, so that those who were together in the large boats have other partners in the cobles. The surplus winter fish is not dried, but salted in barrels: each barrel contains from 22 to 24 stone of cod or ling, and sells at about 40 or 42 sh. The quantity annually barrelled may be thus stated on an average: Staiths, 280 barrels; Runswick, 140; Robin Hood’s Bay, 120; with a proportionate quantity for Scarborough. The quantity sold fresh during winter may be estimated at three times the quantity barrelled. The cargoes of the cobles, as well as of the large boats in summer, are sold to the fishmongers, pannier-men, and fishwives, at so much per score. The price varies exceedingly : for instance, had- docks are sometimes sold at from Is. 6d. to 2s. per score, at other times so high as 8 sh. or upwards. The average wholesale price of cod aud ling may be stated at 18s. per score. The women sell the fish by retail in the Fish-market, and often carry them about to pri- vate houses. Turbot and holibut are sold, at from 2d. to 4d. per lib. The taking of crabs and lobsters, which are caught in hag-nets (called trunks) fixed to iron hoops, 20 inches in diameter, is carried on both in summer and winter, chiefly by the elder fishermen. There are 8 lobster boats at Staiths, 5 at Runswick, and as many at Robin Hood’s Bay. Crabs sell from Is 6d. to 3 or 4 sh per score. Lobsters are about three times that price. — Shrimps and prawns, especially the former, are taken on the sandy shores, but not in great quantities. The net used for that purpose resembles the lobster nets; but its hoop, instead of being circular, is flat on one side : a person wading in the water pushes the net before him, by means of a pole fastened to the hoop, the flat side of which grazes along the bottom, while the arched part stands erect, to keep the net open. Salmon and salmon-trout were once plentiful in the Esk, but are now very scarce, the quantity being much diminished since the estab- lishment of the inland alum-works ; the price of salmon trout varies from fid. to Is. per pound. The fisheries yield employment and support to about 400 fisher- men, and their families; and to a considerable number of fishmongers, fishwives, pannier-men, &c. The fishermen are a hardy race; and, though their gains are precarious, it is no uncommon thing for a careful fisherman to become a respectable shipowner. It is difficult to cal- culate the annual amount of the whole proceeds of the fisheries in the district: but, from the data given above, the annual average value can scarcely be stated at less than 25 or 30,000c£; supposing the fresh fish to sell at from 10 to 15^ per ton, which is probably below the average. The value, if stated according to the price paid by the consumer, might he doubled, if not trebled. 824 STATISTICAL SURVEY. CHAP. V. BIOGRAPHY AND FAMILY HISTORY. SEVERAL eminent men, who were the orna- ments of our district and of their country in ancient times, were noticed in the first and second Books; and the list might have been swelled by various additions, particularly from the two noble families of Percy and Brus; in the former of which, we recognize the an- cestors of the dukes of Northumberland, and in the latter, the progenitors of the present royal family. This Chapter is confined to those illustrious persons that have appeared here since the dissolution of the monas- teries. Of these a short account only can be given ; and 1 regret that characters which might have adorned so many pages, must be crowded intoa space so contract- ed. The order of time will perhaps be the most unexceptionable. THE 1st SIR T. CIIALONER AND THE CHALONER FAMILY'. The family of Cliaioner is of the ancient British stock, being origi- nally a Welch family, allied to the ancient princes of Wales. The original name was Krwme, which about the year 1200, or soon after, was changed to Chaloner.. Sir Thos. Cliaioner, who purchased the Guisborough estates, wastliesonof Roger Chaloner, of London, Esq. ; and was born in London about the year 1515. He is described as a gallant soldier, an able statesman, and a very learned writer. He studied at the university of Cambridge, where he was distinguished by his genius and application, and especially by his happy turn for Latin poetry, in which he excelled most of his cotempoi aries. On leaving the college, he was introduced at court; and was soon after sent abroad into Germany with Sir Henry Kuevet. He was well received at the court of the emperor Charles V, whom he attended in some of his wars; particularly in the fatal expedition against Algiers, BIOGRAPHY 825 in 1541. Here the courage of our young hero nearly cost him his life: the vessel which carried him was shipwrecked, but he was providen- tially drawn up into another ship by a cable which he caught with his teeth, while he was swimming about in the dark. After this escape, he returned to England, where his learning and services were rewarded with the office of first clerk of the council, which he held till the death of Henry VIII. In the beginning of the next reign, he came into great favour with the duke of Somerset, under whom he distinguished himself in the battle of Musselburgh, in consequence of which, he received the honours of knighthood. Sept. 28, 1547 ; and, on his return to court, the duchess of Somerset presented him with a rich jewel. The fall of the duke, his patron, put a stop to his further pre- ferment during Edward’s reign; and his zealous attachment to the protestanl religion might have proved fatal to him under the bloody Mary, had he not been protected by some of her courtiers, to whom he had rendered important services. The accession of Elizabeth brought him again to court, and so high did his character stand, that he was the hist ambassador named by that wise princess and that also to the first prince in Europe, Ferdinand I, emperor of Germany. In this embassy, he acquitted himself with great reputation, gaining the confidence of the emperor, and at the same time securing the inte- rests of his royal mistress, who honoured him at his return. In 15G1, he was appointed ambassador to the court of Spain, a service which he undertook with reluctance, anticipating the mortifications to which it might subject him. His fears were too well founded, for his trunks and cabinets were all searched, on his first arrival in Spain. Sir Thomas strongly remonstrated against this affront, and his conduct, during the whole of this embassy, was such as to maintain the honour of the sovereign whom lie represented. His dignified behaviour, his talents as a minister, his bravery as a soldier, his general learning, and his uncommon skill in Latin poetry, commanded the admiration even of the Spanish court. Falling very ill, in 1564, he addressed the queen in an elegy after the manner of Ovid, begging to be recalled to his native country; a request which was presently granted. During his residence in Spain, where, to use his own words, he spent the winter in a stove and the summer in a barn, his great work “The right or- dering of the English republic” was composed : aud, on his return to London, he published the first 5 Books, which he dedicated to his intimate friend Sir Wm. Cecil: the remaining 5 Books were probably not published in his life-time. He does not seem to have fuily reco- vered from his illness; for he died at his house in Clerkenweil close, London, Oct. 7, 1565. He was buried in St. Paul’s with great pomp; Sir Wm. Cecil (afterwards lord Burleigh), then principal secretary of state, acted as chief mourner, and also honoured his memory with some Latin verses, setting forth the rare excellencies of his character. Uuder the patronage of lord Burleigh, Dr. Wm. Malim published a correct edition of Sir Thomas’s poetical works, in 1579. Our author wrote a number of tracts, as; “A little Dictionary for children,” 5 N 826 STATISTICAL SURVEY. “ The Office of Servants,” “ Moriae Encomium”, &c. There are some of his letters' in Haynes’s Collection of State Papers. Sir Thomas Chaloner the younger, son of the first Sir Thomas, by his wife Ethelreda, daughter of Edwd. Frodshain, Esq. was born in 1559, and being very young at his father’s decease, was educated under the care of the lord-treasurer Burleigh. He was taught by Dr. Malim, master of St. Paul’s school, and afterwards studied in Magdalen college, Oxford. Like Iris father, he had a great talent for poetry, which he wrote with much facility, both in English and in Latin. About the year 15S0 he began his travels on the con- tinent, where he acquired, especially in Italy, that knowledge of philosophy and the arts, which enabled him afterwards to introduce the alum-making. He returned before 1584, and soon after married Elizabeth, daughter of his father’s friend Sir Wm. Fleetwood, recorder of London. He appeared much at court where he received the honour of knighthood in 1591. A little before the year 1600, he established the alum-work at Behnan Bank, near Guishorougli ; but it cost him lame sums, before it could be brought to yield any profit.* In the end of Elizabeth’s reign, Sir Thomas made a journey into Scotland, where he grew into such credit with king James, that the most con- siderable persons in England, and among others Sir Francis Bacon, courted his favour and recommendation. He accompanied the king in his journey to England, and so much w’as he in favour with his new sovereign, that he intrusted him with the care of prince Henry’s education, Aug. 17, 1603. This charge Sir Thomas held during the life-time of that excellent prince, whom he attended to Oxford in 1605. He had also great interest with queen Anne, who employed him in the management of her private affairs. He died Nov. 17, 1613 (or, according to some accounts, 1615), and was buried in the church of Chiswick, in Middlesex. His only publication is entitled “The virtue of Nitre, wherein is declared the sundry cures by the same effected,” London, 1584, 4 to. Some of his letters are preserved in the Lam- beth library, &c. There is a MS. folio volume written by this Sir Thomas, now in the possession of his descendant Rob. Chaloner, Esq. M. P. It contains an account of the offices, ceremonies, &c. at the court. One of the most curious articles is that which gives directions for making the king’s bed. The order for that service must have been drawn up at a period when the English moriarchs, instead of be- ing the fathers of their people, were such tyrants and oppressors, that they were haunted with a continual dread of assassination. Four sons of the second Sir Thomas Chaloner rose to eminence, William the eldest was created a baronet, July "20, 1620; hut on his * His biographer states, that Lambert Russell, a Walloon, and two other alum-makers, were brought over privately from Rochelle in France, where they had been employed in the alum-business. This statement does not accord with the story of stealing these workmen from the pope’s alum- works in Italy (See p 807 , 808 ) ; especially as they are said to have been brought over, not to begin, but to complete the undertaking. See Chalmers’ Biographical Dictionary, Yol IX. p. 73. BIOGRAPHY. 827 dying without issue in 1681, the title became extinct. Edward, the Hudson, was educated at Oxford, and entering into orders, was made chaplain to James I, and doctor of divinity. He was the author of some sermons, and other writings. His death was premature, for he was carried off by the plague at Oxford, July 25, 1625. Thomas, another son, was also an eminent scholar, and an accomplished gen- tleman. He sat in the long parliament, as member for Scarborough: and was one of the king’s judges, and a member of the council of state. At the restoration, he retired to Holland, and being excepted out of the Act of Oblivion, he ended his day’s at Middleburg in Zea- land, not long after. James, another son of Sir Thomas, also sat in the long parliament, and was one of the king’s judges.* He held the castle in the Isle of Man, where he died in 1661. He was distinguished as a man of learning, particularly as an antiquary, and wrote a History of the Isle of Mam At the decease of Sir Wm. Ohaloner, Baronet, who died at Scauderoon in Turkey, Sir Edwd. Chaloner, Knt., son of Dr. Edwd. Chaloner, became heir to the Guisborough estates; which descended from Sir Edward, to his son William Chaloner, Esq ; whose son and heir, Edward, died in 1737, leaving the inheritance to his son Wil- liam, from whom it came to his son, the late William Chaloner, Esq., father to Robert Chaloner, Esq. M. P. tiie present lepresentative of the family, who is married to Frances Laura, daughter of the Rt. Hon. Lord Dundas, and has several children. Mrs. Emma Chaloner, widow of the late William Chaloner, Esq. and daughter of William Harvey, Esq. of Chigwell, Essex, is now living at Tunbridge Wells. She has had fifteen children, several of whom died young. It is ob- servable, that Mary, sister to the late Wm. Chaloner, Esq and wife of General John Hale, had twenty -two children. SIR DAVID FOULIS, AND THE FOULIS FAMILY. Sir David Foulis of Ingleby Manor, Knt. and Bart, was the second son of Henry Foulis, Esq. of Colinton, near Edinburgh, an- cestor to the present Sir James Foulis of Colinton, Bart, He was knighted in 1603, when he attended king .lames into England; and was created a Baronet, Feb. 6, 1619. Previous to his accession to the English throne, James had employed him in several weighty com- missions to queen Elizabeth; and, having had experience of his fidelity and zeal, he appointed him cofferer to prince Henry, and subsequently to prince Charles. In 1609, he purchased of Ralph lord Eure “the manors of Ingleby and Battersby, the manor-houses, the fallow-deer- park and the red-deer-park, with the rectory and church of Ingleby, and lands in Ingleby, Battersby, and Greenhough and in consider- * The family, we are told, opposed the king, on account of the unjust seizure of the alum-works as “a royal mine.” — The stories told in the Memoir published at the end of the Letters from the Dodleian Library (V. II. p. 281 — 284) cannot be depended on : the Memoir confounds two or three members ot the family into one 1 . Janies Chaloner was excepte d out of the Act of Ob- livion, yet not made liable to be tried for his life. Statutes at Large, 12 Car, II. c. 11. 5 N 2 828 STATISTICAL SURVEY. ation of his good, long, and faithful services the king granted him, by letters patent, the manors of Greenhowe and Templehurst. He re- sided chiefly at Ingleby Manor, where he acted as one of his Majesty’s council for the northern parts, cust'js rotulorum, deputy lieutenant, and justice of the peace for the North Riding. But in 1633, his spirited opposition to the tyrannical measures of king Charles, parti- cularly the commission issued to compel gentlemen to compound for not having taken the honour of knighthood, brought upon him the weight of that vile engine of despotism — the Court of Star Chamber, by which he was stripped of his offices, imprisoned in the Fleet during his Majesty’s pleasure, fined 5000o£. to the king, and 3000o£. to lord Wentworth, on whom he had cast some reflections; and he was forced to sell part of his estates, to pay the fines. His son and heir, Henry, was also committed to the Fleet during the king’s pleasure, and fined 500o£\ Sir David died in 1642 at Ingleby, where he was buried. — He was succeeded by his son Sir Henry, who had for his successor his sou Sir David Foulis, Bart. M. P. for Northallerton who died in 1694. — Henry, the second son of Sir Henry Foulis, who was educated at Oxford, and entered into holy orders, was distinguished for his learning. In 1662, he published a volume entitled “The II istory of the wicked Plots and Conspiracies of our pretended Saints,” attacking the Jesui.s on the one hand, and the presbyterians on the other. The work was dedicaied “To his loving Brother Sr. David Foulis, Baronet, of Ingleby Mannor in Cleaveland, in the North-Riding of Yorkshire: And his vertuous Consort, the Lady Catharine Foulis.” After his death, which occurred in 1669, another work of his, entitled “ An History of the Romish Treasons and Usurpations” was published. His writings display a much greater portion of genius and learning, than of Christian candour and moderation: he enters keenly into the spirit, of the party whose cause he espoused, to whom therefore his works were highly acceptable. Since the death of the second Sir David Foulis, Bart, the title and estates have lineally descended to five successive baronets of the name William, including the present Sir William Foulis, Bart, of Ingleby Manor. SIR H. CHOLMLEY THE ELDER, k THE CHOLMLEY FAMILY. The Cholmleys of Yorkshire sprung from a younger branch of the ancient family of Cholmondf.ley in Cheshire. Richard and Roger, the sons of John Cholmoudeley, of Golston in the county of York, Esq , are said to have been the first who contracted the name to Cholmeley, which in later times has been further contracted to Cholmley. The two brothers now mentioned fought on Flodden field, in 1513; and were both knighted, as the reward of their bra- very. Sir Richard, who was lieutenant-governor of the tower, had no issue, except a natural son, Roger, who was bred to the law, and rose to the highest eminence in his profession; being made recorder of London in 1540, when he was knighted; afterwards appointed lord BIOGRAPHY. 829 chief baron of the exchequer, in 1545; and finally advanced lo the station of lord chief justice, in 1552. After the deatli of Sir Richard, in 1521, his estates descended to his brother Sir Roger, who married Katharine, daughter of Sir Marmaduke Constable, of Flamborough. He resided for some time at Kinthcrp, near Pickering; and aflerwaids purchased Roxby, near Thornton, which became the principal seat of the family. Sir Roger had several children : Anne, one of his daughters, was married to the earl of Westmoreland. He died in London, April 28, 1538; and was succeeded by his son Richard, who received the honours of knighthood, not many years after, as the re- ward of his bravery in Scotland * This Sir Richard purchased Whitby, and several other manors, after tire dissolution of the monas- teries. f He lived at Roxhv in great state, having 50 or 60 men- servants, and seldom travelled without a retinue of 30 or 40 livery servants to attend him : his power and wealth, together with his stature and complexion, procured him the name of “ the great black knight of the north. ”§ He was twice married, and had several chil- dren: his first lady was Margaret, daughter of William lord Conyers; the second, Katharine, daughter of Henry first earl of Cumberland, and widow of John lord Scroope, of Holton, a lady of uncommon beauty. Sir Richard died at Roxby, in 1579, and was buried in the chancel of Thornton church: his lady survived till 1598; she was interred in the chancel of Whitby church, under the great blue stone. Her mo- ther was the daughter of Henry, earl of Northumberland; so that, through her, a branch of the offspring of Wiliiam de Percy again be- came possessed of the manor of Whitby, with a great part of Whitby Strand. Sir Richard had a numerous progeny; of whom, Francis, his eldest son, who married Miss Jane Bulmer, succeeded to the prim- cipal estates He was the first of the family that fixed his residence at Whitby; where he built the Hall, then chiefly constructed of wood; but he enjoyed it only a short season, for he died not long after his father. Leaving no issue, he was succeeded by his younger brother Henry, the only son of Sir Richard by his second wife, in terms of a deed of entail executed by Sir Richard, preferring him before two elder brothers, Roger and Richard, from the former of whom the Cholmleys of Bransby are descended. Henry, who married Margaret, daughter of Sir Wm. Babthorpe, was knighted at York by king James, * At the battle of Musselburgh, in 1547, according to Sir Hugh Cholm- ley’s Memoirs, p. 6 : but, according to Charlton, p. 297, at the taking of Leith, May 11, 1544. Charlton’s account (obtained no doubt from Nath. Cholmley, Esq.) appears to be most correct ; for this Richard, who is only stiled esquire in the lease of Whitby granted in 1540, is called knight in some other documents prior to the close of Henry’s reign. His brother Hugh is said to have been knighted along with him. If that account is correct, as it probably is, the great Sir Hugh was not the first knight of that name in the family. In the Memoirs, it is stated, that none of the sons of Sir Roger survived him except Richard and John; but the correctness of the Memoirs cannot be depended on, at least for that period, + See p. 4G3. § Memoirs of Sir H. Cholmley, p. 6 — 11. See also Leland's account of the Cholmley family given above, p. 742. Note. 830 STATISTICAL SURVEY. in 1803 After the death of his mother > lady Scroope, who lived with him at Whitby, he resided for tiie most part at Roxby, and lat- terly at York; where he died in consequence of a fall from his horse, in the year 1816,* and was buried in St. John’s church. Sir Henry had a large family ; 3 sons and 7 daughters survived him : of tiie latter, Barbara was married to Thomas lord Falconberg, and Dorothy to Nicholas Bushell, of Whitby, Esq.: the other 5 were also married. His eldest son. Sir Richard, born in 1580, and knighted by king James in 1803, succeeded him. He had much public business in the county of \ ork, where his cousin lord Scroope was lord lieutenant, and president of his Majesty’s council in the north. .Sir Richard was. made a deputy -lieutenant, and one of the council, was put into the commission of the peace, was elected M. P. for Scarborough in 1 020, and was appointed high sheriff of Yorkshire in 1 624. I hese expen- sive honours, with some troublesome law-suits which he had wit.. Sir Thos. P. Hobby, of Hackness, were greatly to the disadvantage of Sir Richard and his family. Me afterwards rttired from pubdc life to his residence at Whitby, where lie ended his days, Sept. 23, 1831, and was buried in the grave of bis grandmother, under the great blue stone. 1 Sir Richard was twice married : Lis first wife, Susanna, daughter of John i eganl. Esq. and nearly related to the Hotham family, died in 181 1, after bearing him four sons and two daughters: of the latter, Margaret was married to Sir Wm. Strickland, of Boyn- ton; and Ursula, to Geo. Trotter, Esq. of Skelton castle Ills second wife, Margaret, sister of Sir Wm. Cobb, of Adderbury, bore him four sons also, but two of them (twins) died immediately after their birth. Three of his sons rose to eminence. Henry, bred to the law j , was distinguished in his profession, and was knighted in 1641: he mar- ried the widow of Sir Geo. 1 wisden, of Burley. Richard, who inhe- rited Growmcnd, married Margaret, daughter to lord Pa lett : he was a colonel in the army of Charles I, during the ci,.l wars, and was knighted for his services at the taking of Exeter, but soon after fell in the siege of Lyme. But Hugh, the eldest son of Sir Richard, was by far the most illustrious; and this ornament of the Cholmley family must now. he more particularly noi'eed Sut Hugh Ciiolmlf.y was horn at Roxby, July 22, 1600. In the years of infancy and childhood, lie passed through dangers that seemed to prognosticate the perils which he was to encounter in ma- ture age. At three years of age, his nurse let him fall out of a cham- ber window at Roxby; but he was fortunately caught before he reached the' ground. At the age of seven, he was nearly rode over by a horse on the moor: and on the day when he completed his 8th year, he was almost destroyed at Whitby by a fierce sow, whose pigs he had kicked in bis sport. He suffered much from the diseases of childhood, and at the age of 1 1, when he was at Beverley school, he was attacked with a fever and carried to the house of his cousin Mrs, Hotha.n at ^Scarborough (mother of the unfortunate Sir John Hotham), and his * Or 1014. f See the inscription on his monurn nt, p. 613. BIOGRAPHY. 831 mother visiting him there, caught the fever and died. At the early age of 13, he went to study at Cambridge, under the care of his tutor Mr: Petty, then chosen a fellow of Jesus college; and, at 18 years of age, lie entered the inns of court, being admitted to Gray’s inn, where he continued 3 years. According to his own account, his pro- gress in learning was by no means equal to his opportunities for he was too much addicted to youthful follies On Dec. 10, 1622, he married Elizabeth Twisden, daughter of Sir Wm. Twisden, of East Peekham, Knt. and Bart , a gentleman of great learning and worth. In 1624, Sir Hugh was elected M. P. for Scarborough, an honour which was again conferred on him in 1625, and in 1626. In lt>26, he came to reside at Whitby with his family, having hitherto dwelt in London. He lived many years, partly at Whitby and partly" at Fyfing Hall, not displaying expensive parade and useless splendour, but improving his estates, which he cleared of the incumbrances brought upon them by his predecessors, doinggood to the neighbourhood, and en- joying much domestic happiness with his amiable lady and family; a happiness, however, which was sometimes interrupted by the loss of dear relations. Whitby was much benefited by his presence, and the whole vicinity enjoyed the advantage of his residence here; especially after he was appointed a justice of the peace, and was made deputy- lieutenant, and colonel of the train-bands of Whitby Strand, Rvedale, Pickering-Lythe, and Scarborough. These appointments, which he accepted in 1636, obliged him to assume more state; but his prudent management had put it in his power to support this increased expense. H is mode of living at Whitby is thus described in his own words, which, from the example of regularity, piety, and hospitality which they exhibit, I feel great pleasure in quoting: “ Having mastered my debts, I did not only appear at all public meetings in a very gentlemanly equipage, but lived in as handsome and plentiful fashion at home as any gentleman in all the country, of my rank. I had between thirty and forty in my ordinary family, a chaplain who said prayers every morning at six, and again before dinner and supper, a porter who merely attended the gates, which were ever shut up before dinner, when tiie beli rung to prayers, and not opened till one o’clock, except for some strangers who came to dinner, which was ever fit to receive three or four besides my family, without any trouble; and whatever their fare was, they were sure to have a hearty welcome. Twice a week, a certain number of old people, widows and indigent persons, were served at my gates with bread and good pottage made of beef, which I mention that those which succeed may follow my example.” Memoirs of Sir Hugh Cholmley, p. 56. The following anecdote, which serves to illustrate his vigilance and activity as a magistrate, I also give in his own words. “About June, lt>37, two Holland men of war had chased into Whitby harbour a small pickroon or vessel be- longing to the king of Spain, which had in her only thirty men and two small guns. One of the Hollanders had 400 men, the other 200; and the captains, leaving their ships at anchor in the road, came with 832 STATISTICAL SURVEY. tlieir long boats on land, with forty men, every one having his pistols. The Dunkirker, for more security, had put iiimse'f above the bridge, and placed bis two guns upon bis decks, with all his men ready to defend. I, having notice of this, fearing they might do here the like affront as they did at Scarborough, where they landed one hundred men, and took a ship belonging to the king of Spain out of the har- bour, sent for the Holland captains, and ordered them not to offer any act of hostility; for that the Spaniard was the king’s friend, and to have protection in his ports. After some expostulations, they pro- mised not to meddle with the Dunkirker, if he offered no injury to them; which I gave him strict charge against, and to trust to the king’s protection. These Holland captains leaving me, and going into the town, sent for the Dunkirk captain to dine with them, and soon after took occasion to quarrel with him, at the same time ordered their men to fall on the Dunkirk ship, which they soon surprised, the captain and most of the men being absent. 1 being in my court-yard, and hearing some pistols discharged, and being told the Dunkirker and Hollanders were at odds, made haste into the town, having only a cane in mv hand, and one that followed me without any weapon, thinking my presence would pacify all differences. VV hen I came to the river side, on the sand between the coal-yard and the bridge, I found the Holland captain with a pistol in his hand, calling to his men, then in the Dunkirk ship, to send a boat for him. 1 gave him good words, and held him in treaty till l got near him, and then, giv- ing a leap on him, caugiit hold of his pistol, which I became master of; yet not without some hazard from the ship, for one from thence levelled a musket at me; but I espying it, turned the captain between me and him, which prevented his shooting. — After I had taken the captain, I caused a boat to be manned with men, for retaking the ship; which, as soon as it approached, the Hollanders fled out, and got to their own ships. In the afternoon 1 intercepted a letter from ship-hoard to the captain, that he should be of good cheer, for at midnight they would laud two hundred men. and take him away. And in respect they had by force taken a Dunkirk ship not long before out of Scarborough harbour, I conjectured they might be as bold here; and therefore gave notice to Sir John Hotham, of F\ ling, then high sheriff of the county,* who came to me, and summoned all the adjacent train-bands. We had, 1 think, two hundred men on the guard that night; hut then so inexpert, that not. one amongst them except some few seamen knew at all how to handle their arms, or discharge a mus- ket; and it had been happy for this nation they had continued till now in that ignorance These ships continued hovering before the harbour for two or three days, I ill I sent the captain to York; who was after sent for to London, by orders from the privy council, who approved of my laying hole! of him, and gave me thanks for it. I think he re- mained prisoner near two years, till the Prince Palatine came over, and obtained his release.” Ibid. p. 56 — 58. * It was in 1634 (not 1637) that Sir John was high sheriff. Drake’s Ebor. p 364. BIOGRAPHY 833 But the fame of Sir Hugh was principally acquired during those civil wars which issued in the deadi of Charles 1, and the establish- ment of the commonwealth. In 1639, when Charles determined to lead a powerful army against the Scots, whom lie pronounced rebels, because they would not submit to his illegal and arbitrary mandates. Sir Hugh was much employed in mustering and exercising his regiment of train-bands, for the intended expedition. In the following year, he sat in the short parliament, as member for Scarborough ; and, the king renewing his ill-judged attack on the Scots, a measure which proved the beginning of his ruin, Lieut. Col. Henry Cholmley com- manded the regiment of train-bands, in his brother’s absence. At this time Sir Hugh, with his friends and neighbours. Sir John Hotham, Henry Bellasis, Esq. and many other gentlemen, strenuously op- posed the collection of ship-money, and other tyrannical measures of the king; and this patriotic conduct drew down upon Sir Hugh the wrath of the earl of Stratford, who put him out of all his commissions, viz. of the peace, oyer and terminer, deputy lieutenancy, and colonel- ship; besides calling him before the council, to answer for what he had spoken in parliament, and offering him other unmerited insults. On their return into Yorkshire, Sir Hugh, and Sir John Hotham, with lord Wharton, and others, drew up a remonstrance and complaint addressed to the lords of the Council table, which was signed by above 100 of the principal nobility and gentry of the county, in a meeting held at York; and this being the hrst open remonstrance of the kind against the king’s tyranny, made a strong impression. After the king’s arrival at York, he offered to resiore Sir Hugh to the command of bis regiment; he declined serving under the earl of Strafford, but recommended his brother Henry, to whom the regiment was accord- ingly given. Sir Hus;h and Sir John Hotham having taken a very active part in preparing a petition then signed at York by 140 nobility and gentry, complaining of oppression, and begging the king to call a parliament, his Majesty called them into his presence, sharply re- primanded them as the chief promoters of the petitions with which he was harassed, and told them in wrath, that if they meddled with such matters again, he would hang them! They respectfully set before him the hardship of not being allowed to make known their complaints; on which the king, softening a little, desired them, when they had any cause of complaint, to come to himself. It would seem that his Majesty regretted that he had spoken so harshly; for not long after, he advanced Sir Hugh to the dignity of a baronet, and made his brother Henry a knight. In the parliament which assembled in 1G41, Sir Hugh again sat for Scarborough,' and was so much esteemed in the house, that he was nominated one of the committee to attend the king into Scotland, an honour which he did not accept: and in 1642, he and his brother Sir Henry were among the commissioners appointed to confer with the king at York. At the same time, he was for mode- rate measures, and lamented the violence of such as were pushing things to extremities; as we learn from the following account which 5 0 834 STATISTICAL SURVEY. he gives of that commission to the king: “The pretence was to give the king and country a right understanding of the sincerity of the parliament’s intentions; but when I came to receive the instructions from Pym, who had orders to give them, we were plainly enjoined to draw the train bands together; and to oppose the king in all things were for the parliament’s service. This I refused to accept, saying, “it were to begin the war, which I intended not:” whereupon Pym bid me draw the instructions to my own mind, which 1 did; but the Lord Fairfax and I departing in a coach before they could be finished, they Were brought to us by the Lord Howard and [Sir Philip] Stapylton; and though not so large as at first, yet otherwise than I did assent to or could approve of. When we came to York, there were few about the king but soldiers of fortune, or such as were no friends to the pub- lic peace; and here I discovered there was a party about the king, who held intelligence with another prevalent one in the parliament, both which so well concurred in fomenting distractions, as whensoever the king offered aught was reasonable, the party in parliament caused it to be rejected ; and whenever the parliament did seem to comply to Hie king, their party with him made it disliked; so that, the Searcher of all hearts knows, I was infinitely tro> bled at the distractions likely to succeed After some prayers to the Lord, aud truly in the depth of my trouble, taking a little Psaller-book in my hand I used to read in, I first cast my eye on the 8th and 7th verses of the 120th Psalm, which was, “6. My soul hath long dwelt with him that hateth peace. 7. I am for peace; but when I speak, they are for war.’’ And then reading in the succeeding 121st Psalm, truly" my heart was enlight- ened and cheared up beyond imagination, so that ever after I went chearfully on in performance of the duty I was upon, without any trouble or disturbance.” Ibid. p. 65, 66. Sir Hugh goes on to state his opinion of the transactions of those times, and the part which he himself acted, in the following terms “Whilst we were at York, the Lord Keeper Littleton, and divers others of the lords house, as also of the house of commons, stole privately away, and came to the king, whose condition they thought prospering; but my opinion was, they had misled both the king and the nation by quitting the parliament, as I told many of them ; in which 1 proved to be prophetical. Here was sent to us, the commissioners, a paper of nineteen propositions from the parliament to his Majesty, most unjust and unreasonable ones as ever 1 think was made to king. When we were to have presented them, it fell to my turn to have read them; but I would not, in respect I thought them unjust and unreasonable to be offered to the king; and so put it to Sir Richard [ Philip ] Stapylton to read. I carried back the king’s answer to these propositions; and about a month after, when the earl of Holland was sent to his Majesty, then at Beverley, I was nominated a commissioner with him; but, disliking the employ- ment, I got freed, and Sir John Holland put in my place.* About * There were then many worthy men, who, like Sir Hugh, strenuously opposed the king’s tyranny, yet laboured hard to prevent an open rupture BIOGRAPHY. 835 the latter end of August, I was desired by the earl of Essex and some others, to go into Yorkshire, and to draw my regiment, for the secur- ing Scarborough; which at first I refused; but, after being much im- portuned, conceiving these preparations of war would end in a treaty, and that myself desired nothing but that the king might enjoy his just rights, as well as the subjects theirs, and that I should in this matter be a more indifferent arbitrator than many I saw take arms, and more considerable with my sword in my hand, and in better capacity to advance a treaty than by sitting in the house of commons wdiere 1 had but a bare vote, I accepted this employment. — This employment was something hazardous at this time, in respect to divers gentlemen in Yorkshire declaring for the king, who were all ready in arms. I had, for my better security, a troop of horse from London, and two hundred men promised me at Hull, which, when I came, I could not have to serve with these horse. How I deported myself in this em- ployment, and when, how, and for what causes, 1 quit it and the parliament, I shall forbear to speak now’, but reffr the reader to the accouut I have given, bolh of that and the siege ot Scarborough to- gether, in which it will appear I did not forsake the parliament till they did fail in performing those particulars they made the grounds of the war when I was first engaged, viz. the preservation of religion, protection of the king's person, and liberties of the subject; nor did I quit them then for any particular ends of my own, but mer ely to per- form the duty and allegiance I owed to my sovereign, and which I did in such a way as was without any diminution of my honour, either as a gentleman or a soldier.’ - Ibid. p. 66 — 68. It is much to be re- gretted, that the interesting document here referred to is now lost, having been accidentally consumed by fire in the chambers of the Tem- ple, in 1751, along with other valuable family papers. But we learn from Rushworth and others, that Sir Hugh, while he saw it his duty to adhere to the parliament, bravely defended this district against the king’s party; and in an action fought at Guisborough, Jan. 16, 1643, he defeated 600 of the king’s troops, and took Colonel Slingsby, their commander, with a good number of his men. From the loss of Sir Hugh’s journal above-mentioned, we are unable to state the precise circumstances of his defection from the parliament; but his own de- clarations, and his general character, authorise us to belieye, that he was not actuated, in that affair, by any selfish views, but by a sense of duty. He might perceive arbitrary and unjust proceedings on the part of the parliament, as well as on that of the king; the violent measures of some of their party might disgust him with the whole, as he could not go the lengths to which they were driving; he hated not monarchy', but despotism; and he had drawn the sword, not to des'roy the king, between the king and parliament : one of the most noted was Sir Benjamin Rudyard, aneestor of Richd Rudyard, Esq. of this place. See his excellent speech recommending conciliatory measures, Hazlitt’s Eloquence of the Brit- ish Senate, V I. p. 114 — 116. Indeed, it is probable, that even the most violent members of the parliament had not at first any idea of proceeding ts^ those extremities to which circumstances led then). 5 0 2 836 STATISTICAL SURVEY. but to check his tyranny. According to Rushworth, Sir Hugh eu- tered into a correspondence with the royal party about the middle of March, 1643; and began to complain, that the parliament had slighted him and denied him supplies: he had a secret inteniew with the queen at York, and received a commission to hold Scarborough castle for the king; soon after which, he openly declared himself to the officers of the garrison, leaving it to their conscience either to serve the king or to retire Most of them chose the latter alternative, and Sir Hugh having repaired to the queen, leaving his kinsman, Mr. Jas. Cholmley, to command in his absence, a fresh revolt took place, and the castle was again held for the parliament: but not long after, another revo- lution occurred, chiefly bv means of Captain Brown Busheli, Sir Hugh’s cousin, and the fortress being restored to the royal party, Sir Hugh re-entered it as governor for the king. His defection from the parliament expose.; him to their resentment : they voted him un- worthy to sit in the house and chargeable with high treason, seized his effects in Hull, and plundered lady Choimley in London, yet per- mitted her to sail for Whitby, from whence she proceeded to Scarbo- rough. To compensate for his losses. Sir Hugh was leaded with honours by his royal master; for, besides being governor of the town and castle of Scarborough, he was made a colouei of dragoons, and had a commission to order and judge all marine affairs within all the ports from the Tees to Bridlington. Sir John Hotham, then governor of Hull, sent an exped.tion under the direction of his son Captain Hotham, to surprise Scarborough; but Sir Hugh getting intelligence of the plan, the assailants were foiled Some months after, when the marquis of Newcastle was besieging Hull, be called Sir Hugh to his aid, with his regiment of horse and 400 foot drawn from the garrison of Scarborough, and appointed him to the command of a brigade of horse: but, owing to the brave defence of lord Fairfax and the gar- rison of Hull, the siege was raised. The parliament party having gained the ascendancy in Yorkshire, Scarborough was destined to be besieged in its turn. After the battle of Marstou Moor, July, 1644, the marquis of Newcastle wiih several noblemen and gentlemen, fled to Scarborough, from whence they embarked for Hamburgh, in a ves- sel provided by Sir Hugh. The marquis wished him to accompany' them in their flight, giving up the king’s cause for lost ; but the brave baronet nobly declared, that lie would not desert his post, till ordered by his king, or compelled by his enemies : and, though many of his soldiers deserted, lie began to prepare for defence. Yet, that he might not appear to continue hostilities unnecessarily, and might at any rate gain time, he sent proposals of surrender by Mr. Henry Barley, a prisoner, who procured a cessation of arms for 20 days, whilst the proposals were sent to parliament. In the mean time. Sir Hugh laid in 400 loads of corn, with other supplies for sustaining a siege, and before Darley had returned from London, and lord Fairfax had sent an answer to the proposals, the town and castle were put into a pos- ture of defeuce, and, as the proposals were not fully agreed to, as it BIOGRAPHY. 837 was not expected they would. Sir Hugh broke off the treaty. Both sides, therefore, prepared for hostilities; and the siege commenced in 1 he beginning of February, 1645. 'the besieging army, consisting of English and Scottish soldiers, was commanded by Sir John Mel- drum, a brave Scotsman; who pressing- the town vigorously, took it by storm on the 18th. Sir Hugh and the garrison retreated with considerable loss into the castle, where they set Sir John and his forces at defiance. The siege was carried on for several months, and great bravery was displayed on both sides: many desperate assaults were made by the besiegers, but they were uniformly repulsed with loss; and in one of these assaults, their commander received a mortal wound of which he died, June 3rd. Sir Matthew Boynton succeeded him, and pushed the siege with great vigour, till the 22nd of July, when, the garrison being greatly reduced in numbers, and worn out by sickness and fatigue, the fortifications being nearly destroyed, and the military stores almost exhausted, Sir Hugh having no hope of relief, consented to capitulate on honourable terms, and surrendered the place on the 25th.* One of the articles stipulated, that lady Cholmley should be permitted to live in her house at Whitby, and have an allotment out of the Whitby estates which the parliament had sequestered ; and, after some difficulty, she obtained possession of the house, which the soldiers had occupied as barracks; and, through the mediation of Sir Henry Cholmley, who acted a brother’s part to the family in their distress, she was allowed one-fifth of the estates. This amiable lady never forsook her husband during all the hard- ships and dingers of the siege; when the apartments in the castle were beaten down by the besiegers, she lay for some months in a little cabin on the ground; and, though attacked with some degree ofsick-» ness herself, she was unremitting in her attention to the sick and the wounded, so that her maids, whom she employed with her in those acts of humanity, were almost worn out in the service. Sir Hugh, agreeably to another article of the capitulation, sailed from Bridlington to Holland; whither he had sent bis two daughters at the beginning of the siege, under the care of the Rev. Mr. Remmingtonf and his wife, with some servants. The worthy baronet resided about four years on the continent, chiefly at Rouen in France, where the whole family met together in 1647. After the execution of king Charles, when the royalists were allowed to compound for their estates. Sir Hugh returned to Whitby, August, 1649; and was soon after put to some trouble by Mr. Taylor, an alderman of York, who brought an action against him for some lead used during the siege of Scarborough. Sir Hugh was arrested at Whitby, but escaped while on the way to * See a more full account of the siege and the. articles of capitulation, in Hinderwell’s History, p. 64 — 86. In p. 738, 739, I have (like others) spo- ken of Sir Hugh’s defence of Scarborough as lasting above a year: he held the fortress for the king during that time, after the country around had sub- mitted to parliament, but the siege, strictly speaking, lasted not quite six months, viz. from the beginning of February to the 2oth of July, f Formerly ajinister of Whitby; Seep. 668. STATISTICAL SURVEY. York; his son William was subsequently arrested and conveyed thi- ther ; blit tbe action fell to the ground. Like other royalists, Sir Hugh was watched with a jealous eye, and in 1651, he was imprisoned 8 weeks at Leeds, with lord Aston, Sir Thus. Culpepper, and others. In July, 1652, Sir Hugh’s whole family met at Whitby, where they had not been all together for above 7 years. Iri recording this happy event, he makes this pious remark : “Now the Lord had heard and answered my prayers, made to him when we were sojourners in a strange land, that he would, in his good time, bring me, my wife and children, to a comfortable meeting at our own home at W liithy.” But earthly joys are fleeting as a shadow; tbe lime was approaching, wh n a mote lasting separation behoved to take place: lady Cholmley iel! sick in London, where she was visiling her daughter Ann. wife to Rich. Stephens, Esq.; and she died there, April 17, 1655, at the lodgings of her cousin lady Katherine Moor, in Bedford street, Coven t- gardcn. She was buried in Peckham church, bi-side her parent This lady was the ornament, of her sex : her eminent virtues and rare ac- complishments, as Sir Hugh relates, contributed much to improve and refine the female inhabitants of Whitby and the vicinity Her end was happy : and among the last words which she uttered were these; “ Blessed day, that 1 am to he married to my Saviour ti e Lord Jesus 1 ” Sir Hugh, who was much dejected at her death, did not long survive: he died at Peckham, Nov. 30, 1657; and was buried beside his beloved spouse. The Memoirs of his life, w ritten by himself, from •whence this biographical sketch is principally drawn, furnish ample evidence of his bravery as a soldier, his loyalty as a subject, and his worth as a man; yet that spirit of piety, which they breathe in every page, reflects a nobler lustre on his character. In all the events of his lot, he acknowledges the hand of Providence; in all his straits, he seeks direction from above; in all his deliverances, he praises the God of his salvation: in him we see the laurels of the hero, entwined with the graces of the Christian. Sir Hugh was succeeded by bis eldest son, Sir William Cholmley, Bart., who was twice married. His hrst lady, Katherine, daughter of Sir John flotham, died June 15, 1655, ami was buried in Whitby church : bis second lady, Elizabeth, daughter of John Savile, of Meathlev, Esq. bore him 4 children; viz. 3 daughters, of whom the eldest, Elizabeth, was married to Sir Edwd. Deering, Bart, ami the third, Margaret, svas married to Win. Turner, of Kirkleatham Esq.; and one son, Hugh, who on the death of his father, in 1663, became bis heir, being 1 lien an infant. This young Sir Hugh died in 1665: be and bis father were buried at Peckham. Sir William’s widow married Sir Nicholas Strode, Bart. After the death of tbe infant Sir Hugh Cholmley, his uncle of the same name, second son to the great Sir Hugh, succeeded to tbe title and estate. This Sir Hugh was born at Fyling Hall in 1632. After the surrender of Scarborough, he shared in the hardships of the family, and, during their exile iu France, lie and his father had an interview wall prince Charles, alter-: BIOGRAPHY. 839 wards Charles II who promised to make him one of the grooms of his bed-chamber, ifhesho.dd be restored; but t hat prince, who had for- merly proi'erred to make the father a baron, found it convenient to forget in his | rosperity many of the promises which he had made ill his adversity. During the life of his brotner Sir William, and previ- ous to the year 1662, Sir Hugh had taken a most active part in re- building and improving the piers at Whitby, which he defended from the sea by driving rows of piles to break the waves*; and having thus gained some experience in works of this kind, he in that year undertook, with the earl of Teviot and Sir John Lawson, to build a mole at Tangiers, then newly ceded to England. This work, which afterwards devolved on himself alone, as surveyor general, and in which he succeeded beyond expectation, cost him several years of care and toil, and many journeys to and from England He took out with him a number of Whitby people acquainted with building piers, and a small fortified village beside Tangiers, where they resided, was named by them Whitby: and they termed one of the forts there York castle. In lt>86, while Sir Hugh was necessarily detained in London, lie prevailed on his uncle Sir Henry Cholmley, then in his 59th year, to go out to Tangiers as his substitute; and that wor- thy knight died there, not long after bis arrival. In 1669, Sir Hugh went out to Tangiers with his family, and continued there, building the mole, till 1672, when he returned home. At that time he finished the north front of Whitby Hall, the south wing of which had been built by his father. In the end of summer he made a tour into Scot- land, visiting Edinburgh, Glasgow, Ayr, &c. and paying his respects to the duke and duchess of 1 auderdale, and others of the nobility and gentry. The duke and duchess, with whom he was well acquainted, accompanied him into England, and, with the earls of Athol and Kinghorn, and others from Scotland, were entertained several days at Whitby; from whence the whole party proceeded to London. On the deatli of lord Middleton, governor of Tangiers, Sir Hugh expected to succeed him, in the beginning of 1674, but lord Inchequeen obtained the place; \et Sir Hugh appears to have continued surveyor general of the works at Tangiers till 1676, when the mele was finished.! In 1679, he was an active member of parliament: some of his speeches are preserved. He died Jan 9, 1689; and with him the title expired. His lady, who was lady Ann Compton, eldest daughter of the earl of Northampton, died May 26, 1705 Both were interred in Whitby church ; which lias ever since been the family burial-place. Mary, their daughter and heir, born Sept. 1667, was married to her cousin Nathaniel Cholmley of London, Esq. who died April 20, 1687. His ■widow married a Mr. Stephens, and died April 2, 1748. Nathaniel Cholmley, Esq. had 2 sons: John, the youngest, born in 1686, was a * This ought to have been noticed in the account of the piers, f Charl- ton (p 320) states, that Sir Hugh was governor of Tangier, but it is obvious from Sir Hugh’s Journal, and other papers on the subject which he has left, that he was only surveyor general. His great labours were lost to the nation; for Tangiers, after costing vast sums, was demolished and abandoned, in 1683. 840 STATISTICAL SURVEY. colonel under Ihe duke of Marlborough, and died at Whitby, in 1724 Hugii, the eldest, born in 1684, became heir to the estates, on the death of Sir Hugh his grandfather. In 1706, he was elected M. P. for Hedon, and enjoyed that honour till 1724. He was appointed, in 1714, surveyor general of the crown land*; and in 1724, he served the office of high sheriff of Yorkshire. In 1716, he married Katherine, only daughter of Sir John Wentworth of Ehnshall and Houslmm, Bart., by the Hon. Mrs. Lowther, daughter of lord viscount Lonsdale: and on the death of Sir Butler Wentworth in 1743, the Wentworth estates came to the Cholmley family, whose chief residence, since that time, has been at Housham. Hugh Cholmley, Esq. died in May, 1755; and his lady in June, 1748. They had 12 children, of whom Nathaniel succeeded to the estates. He was several years in the army, and was wounded in the battle of Dettiugen, where his horse was shot under him. He was chosen M. P. for Aldborough iu 1756, and for Boroughbridge iu 1768. He was thrice married: first in 1750, to Katherine, daughter of Sir Rowland Wynn of Noslel, Burt, by whom lie had Katherine and Mary; secondly, in 1757, to Henrietta- Katharina, daughter of Stephen Croft, Esq. of Stillington, by whom lie had Henrietta, and Anne-Elizabeth ; and lastly, in 1774, to Ann- Jessie, daughter of Leonard Smelt, Esq. ofLangtou. N. ChohnleygEsq. died March II, 1791. Of his daughters, Mary was married to Abrm. Grimes, Esq. ; Henrietta was married, April, 1 778, to Win. Strickland, Esq. eldest son of Sir Geo. Strickland, of Boynton, Bart.; Anne- Elizabeth was married in 1787, to Constantine John Lord Mulgrave, and died in 1788. Katherine, the eldest daughter, now lady of the manor of Whitby, was married in 1774, to Henry Hopkins Fane, Esq., who took the name Cholmley, ami died Feb. 24, 1809; leaving issue two sons, Charles, presumptive heir, and George a colonel in the mi- litia; ami four daughters, Katherine- Jessie, Mary, Louisa, and Amtlia- Elizabeih; of whom the first is married to Charles Edwd Repington, Esq. of Amington Hall, Staffordshire, and the third to the Rev. Thos. Rudston Read, of Sand-Hutton, Yorkshire. SIR JOHN HOTHAM, AND THE HOTHAM FAMILY. Sir John Hotham, Knt. and Bart, was the son of John Hotham of Scorborough,* Esq. His mother, Mrs. Jane Hotham, was cousin to the first lady of Sir Richard Cholmley. His ancestors for many gene- rations had been persons of distinction. Sir Galfri I de Hotham found- ed the friary of Hull in 1331 ; and his son, Sir Richard, was a bene- factor to it. There was a Sir John Hotham high sheriff of Yorkshire in 1457, and another Sir John Hotham held the same office in 1499, and 1500: John Hotham, Esq. was high sheriff in 1584, and M. P. for Scarborough in 1585. Sir John, the subject of this memoir, was the first baronet iu the Family ; he obtained that honour in 1622; and * Scorborough, near Beverley. From the similarity of the name, it is often confounded with Scarborough ; so that the family are sometimes de- scribed as of Scarborough. It is likely, however, that they had a dwelling at both places, as they had lands not far from Scarborough. BIOGRAPHY. 841 was high sheriff in 1634. In the beginning of that year, he purchased Fyling Hall, with the demesnes, from Sir Hugh Cholraley, his kinsman and particular friend ; and, for some time, he fixed his residence at Fyling. The hall in which he lived has long been in ruins, but the lands there are still the property of the Hotham family, who have an estate and a villa at Ebberston. Sir John, like his friend Sir Hugh, acted a conspicuous part in the civil wars, which proved fatal to him- self and his son, as well as to his sovereign. He was distinguished by his early opposition to the tyranny of Charles I, and thus incurred the displeasure of lord Strafford, who not only put him out of all com- missions, but confined him for a time in the Fleet, for words which he had spoken in the short parliament, of which, and of the succeed- ing parliament, he was a member. We have seen in the life of Sir Hugh Cholmley, the active part which he took in the petitions and remonstrances drawn up at York. His zeal in resisting the despotic measures of the court, together with his influence in the East Riding of Yorkshire, pointed him out to the parliament as a fit person to be intrusted with the government of Hull in 1642; when it was known that the king intended to seize the magazines at Hull, and other for- tresses, with a view to overthrow the parliament, and to establish an absolute monarchy. The faithfulness with which Sir John executed this trust bi ought upon him a torrent of obloquy from the royalists. When Charles approached Hull with a considerable force, on pretence of visiting and inspecting the town and magazines, but in reality to take possession of them for opposing the parliament. Sir John repeat- edly denied him admittance, unless he would enter with only 12 at- tendants; upon which, the king, in great wrath, proclaimed him a traitor. Not long after, Hull was closely invested by the king’s troops, first under his Majesty’s own command, and afterwards under the earl of Newport; but through the bravery and skill of Sir John, with the assistance of Sir John Meldrum, and other officers, the be- siegers were repulsed, and forced to raise the siege. After this. Sir John sent out several parties, under the command of his son Capt. Hotham, and others, to harass the royalists in various quarters. But at last, in 1643, he and his son began, after the example of Sir Hugh Cholmley, and probably for similar reasons, to correspond with the king’s party, and to talk of surrendering Hull to the queen: and this being found out before the design could be carried into effect, measures were taken to arrest both the father and the son. Sir John escaped to Beverley, where he was secured, and he and Capt. Hotham were sent prisoners to London; where they were tried and condemned as trai- tors, and executed at the beginning of January, 1645. Their fate must not be viewed as deciding their character. Traitor and rebel are terms which one party applies to another in all political struggles, and the successful party finally fixes them upon their unfortunate op- ponents. Many who perish as traitors when unsuccessful, would have been cried up as patriots, had success been on their side. — Katherine, a daughter of Sir John Hotham, was married, in 1654, to Sir Win. 5 P 842 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Cholmley. The estates of the family were forfeited ; but were after- wards recovered. Sir John Hotham, who inherited the title and estates, was governor of Hull in 1689, but died that year, at an advanced age. Several baronets, mostly of the name Charles, have followed. In 1797, Win. Hotham, Esq. admiral of the blue, was created lord Hotham, of South Dalton, in Ireland; with remainder (in default of male issue) to his nephew Sir Charles Hotham, Bart, of Scorborough, and his heirs- male; and in default of such issue, to the heirs-male of Sir Beaumont Hotham, grandfather of Sir Charles Hotham. SIR JOHN LAWSON. This gallant naval commander was born near Scarborough ; or if, as some state, he was born at Hull, Scarborough was afterwards the place of his residence. His parents were of the lowest orders in society; but, by his own activity and merit, he rose from obscurity to a most elevated rank. He went to sea at an early age, and after be- ing employed some years in the merchant service, he entered into the navy, about the time when it was taken possession of by the parlia- ment, when ships of w'ar were often visiting Hull and Scarborough. His bravery, industry, and sobriety brought him quickly into notice; and from the rank of a common sailor he rose step by step, till he at- tained the dignity of an admiral. He bore a distinguished part in the memorable engagements with the Dutch, during the commonwealth. In the bat tle off cape La Hogue, where he was captain of the Fairfax, lie took two of the Dutch men of war, on which occasion he was made a rear-admiral. In several of the desperate engagements with the Dutch, he was matched with their celebrated admiral De Ruyter, to whom he was a dreadful opponent. In 1657, when he was a vice- admiral, he was arrested along with some others, on suspicion of being concerned in a conspiracy to destroy Cromwell, w hose usurpation he could not fail to condemn : but he was liberated after a short confine- ment, the high esteem which Cromwell had for him having probably hastened his enlargement. At this time he retired for a season to his house at Scarborough, but next year the parliament sent for him, and gave him the command of the whole fleet; and he was commander in chief when Richard Cromwell was set aside. During the subsequent disputes between the army and the parliament, in 1659, Admiral Lawson declared for the latter, and brought the fleet into the Thames, to over-aw T e the adherents of Lambert. He concurred with General Monk in the plan for restoring Charles II, as the means of putting an end to the confusion and anarchy which then prevailed. After the restoration, he received the honour of knighthood, and was appointed one of the commissioners of the navy board. He commanded a fleet in the Mediterranean, intended to check the Algerines, whom he re- duced to the necessity of suing for peace. About that time. Sir John, with earl Teviot and Sir Hugh Cholmley, entered into the contract for building the mole at Tangiers; and Sir Hugh went out to Tangiers, in 1663, ift the fleet which Sir John commanded. From that station BIOGRAPHY. 843 he was recalled to take a part in the Dutch war, in which he served under the duke of York as rear-admiral of the red. The duke consulted him daily, relying more on his judgment, than on that of any other officer in the fleet. In the memorable action with the Dutch, off Lowestoff, June 3rd, 1665, Sir John, after exceeding- all his former achievements, was severely wounded in the knee, and being carried ashore to Deptford or Greenwich, died there a few days after. His death was lamented as an irreparable loss to the service, and indeed to the nation; for, as lord Clarendon says, “he was of all the men of that time, and of that extraction and education, incompar- ably the modestest and wisest man, and most worthy to be confided in.” He was, by religious profession, an independent, and appears to have been a man of true piety; as we may infer from his general character, and from the following passage in a letter addressed to the Hon. Luke Robinson, of Pickering, Esq. M. P. for Scarborough, dated near Quinbrough, March 18, 165f : “The Almighty and my good God has renewed my life to me; and indeed has redeemed it from the jaws of death : His name I desire with that life to give (and bring) glory to, [for] the comfortable issue of our last engagements, who only struck terror into the hearts of our enemies, and sent them away with loss and shame. Oh ! the Lord was HE, the Author and Finisher of it! His name therefore be magnified for it, the honour and praise of it is his: And truly I trust he will keep the hearts of his instruments humble with him; else they may justly expect his withdrawing for the future.”* He seems to have had some presentiment of his approach- ing end; for, before he went to sea in his last expedition, he begged that, in the event of his death, a pension of 200 o £ > . yearly might be paid to his widow: for his long and signal services had brought him more honour than riches, f GENERAL PEREGRINE LASCELLES. This brave officer, who was born at a house in Staithside, Whitby, January 22, 1685, is well entitled to a place among the heroes of this district, though there is little known respecting him, beyond what has been given in his epitaph, p. 613, 614, Note. To the particulars there stated, I may add the following passage, extracted from an account of the battle of Prestonpans, published in the Gentleman’s Magazine for October, 1745; “I am told that Col. Lascelles behaved very gal- * See the whole Letter, in Gent’s Hull, Addenda, Letter III, and Hin- derwell’s Scarborough, p. 112, 113. f Had our limits permitted, several other remarkable characters of that age, more or less connected with our dis- trict, might have been introduced: as, Henry Danvers, earl of Danby, who possessed Danby and other lordships in this quarter; he founded the botanic garden at Oxford, and endowed it with the rectory of Kirkdale; (See Chal- mers’s Biogr. Diet. XI. p. 277 — 279) : Sir William Turner, a native of Kirk- leatham, Lord Mayor of London in 1669: George Yilliers, duke of Bucking- ham, who was lord of Helmsley, Kirkby Moorside, &c , and died at Kirkby Moorside, in 1687; (Seep. 653, Note. Ilinderwell’s Hist. p. 400 — 404.); and John Sheffield, duke of Buckinghamshire, and earl of Mulgrave, pro- prietor of the Mulgrave estates. For an account of this duke, see Johnson's; Lives of the Poets. 5 P 2 844 STATISTICAL SURVEY. lantly. Being deserted by his men, he fell into the enemies hands upon the field, but in the hurry they were in, he found means to make his escape eastward, and got safe to Berwick.” Colonel Lascelles was honourably acquitted by the court martial that inquired into his conduct and that of Sir John Cope and Brigadier Gen. Fowke.* At that time he was 60 years old, and though his age prevented him from engaging much longer in active service, he was subsequently advanced to the rank of Lieut. General. He lived to enter on his 88th year, an age which few soldiers reach. Whitby was not his place of resi- dence during the last years of his life, but his remains were brought thither and interred in the chancel of the church. He left no posterity to keep up his name. JOHN DEAN. John Dean, a native of Scarborough, born about the beginning of last century, moved in a humbler sphere; yet his courage, fidelity, and surprising adventures entitle him to our notice. He was a seaman on board the Sussex East Indiaman, Capt. Gosling, on a voyage to India; and when the ship proved leaky near the island of Madagascar, and the captain, having secured the treasure that was on board, prevailed on some of the officers and many of the crew to abandon her. Dean, with two other Scarborough seamen, Jas. Holland and Wm. Spence, and twelve more of the crew, resolutely' determined to continue in her to the last. The captain cruelly carried off all the compasses and quadrants ; but Holland, being a skilful navigator, conducted the ship into a port on the south coast of Madagascar. H ere the leak was stopped; but the vessel was afterwards wrecked on a shoal uear the island, while they were attempting to sail for the Cape of Good Hope. The lives of the brave men were saved; but their subsequent hardships were so severe, that Dean, whose consti- tution was uncommonly robust, was the only surviver. Falling in w ith a party of the natives, they received him kindly, armed him with a spear, after their fashion, and made him join them in an attack on their enemies; and, in this attack, he rushed on the foe, with a heroism that astonished the savages, and 'secured the victory to his party. After various adventures and hardships, he was brought home in a vessel that touched at the island, and was received by his friends as one risen from the dead. In consequence of the information which he communicated, the East India Company prosecuted Capt. Gosling, in 1742 and 1743, and obtained a verdict against him, for 25,000o£". damages. The court of directors granted John Dean an annuity of «£100, and <£'50 to his wife, if she survived him. They' also appointed * Gent. Mag. for 1746, p. 592, 593. I may here take occasion to intro- duce an anecdote relating to the battle of Prestonpans, which I had some years ago from an aged highlander then in the pretender’s army. When the engagement was just ended, the brave and pious Col. Gardiner was pointed out to Charles among those who had fallen on the field, and the pretender stooping over him, gently raised his head from the earth, and exclaimed, t‘ Poor Gardiner! would to God I could restore thy life ! ” BIOGRAPHY. 845 him an Elder, in 1745; but he died in the company’s hospital at Poplar, Dec 17, 1747. His portrait is preserved in the India-House, to commemorate his fidelity. A pamphlet was published, detailing his adventures; but it cannot now be met with.* THOMAS BROWN. This is another hero, raised from the humble walks of life, yet worthy to be ranked with the great and the noble. He was born about the year 1715. A stately oak, that now graces the entrance to Kirk- lea! ham hospital marks out the spot near which the cottage of his parents stood. His father, who was a blacksmith, planted the oak m their little garden, on the day that his son was born ; alleging, that the plant might come to be a tree when his boy became a man: Tom and his oak grew up together; but it has greatly outlived him; for the days of man are not yet “as the days of a tree.’’ Tom has long slept in the ground; his oak still flourishes in vigour and beauty: yet the fame of Tom shall remain, when the oak shall have crumbled into dust He was bred a shoe-maker; but, preferring the profession of arms, he en'isted into the Inniskillen dragoons, from whence he was drafted in!o Bland’s dragoons, and sent to Flanders. It was in the battle of Detlingen, fought June 16, 1743, when he had not been a year in the service, that he acquired his renown. In the early part of the engagement he had two horses killed under him, and lost two fingers of his left hand; yet, when he saw the standard borne off by some gens d’armes, in consequence of a wound received by the cornet, he galloped into the midst of the enemy, shot the soldier who carried off the standard, and having seized it and thrust it between his thigh and the saddle, he gallantly fought his way back through the hostile ranks, about 80 yards, and, though covered with wounds, he bore the prize in triumph to his comrades, w ho greeted him with three cheers. In this valiant exploit, our hero received 8 wounds in his face, head, and neck; 3 balls went through his hat, and 2 lodged in his back, from whence they could never be extracted. A pistol shot that grazed his forehead nearly stunned him. The fame of Torn Brown soon spread through the kingdom; his health was drunk with enthusiasm; his achievement was painted on sign-posts, and prints representing his person and heroic deeds were sold in abundance. He recovered of liis wounds, so far as to be able to serve for a short time in the life- guards: the king would have given him a commission, if he had ob- tained a suitable education; but it was soon found, that, through the effect of his wounds, he was disqualified for further service; and he retired on a pension of of30 yearly, to the town of Yarm, where he died in January, 1746. There is still a sign in Yarm that commemo- rates his valour. His nephew, Mr. Andrew Smith, farmer at Kirk- leatham, preserves, as a precious relic, the sword which he used in the action; and has also a scarce portrait of him, in which his face appears marked with scars. He was 5 ft. 11 in. Ifioh. * See Hinderwell’s Hist. p. 113—116. 846 STATISTICAL SURVEY. MR. WILLIAM CHAPMAN. The Chapman family resided at Whitby and in Yburn Dale, 'prior to the year 1400; as appears from the Register and Rolls of Whitby abbey, 'where the name frequently occurs. The late Sir Thomas Chapman, of Ireland, and Admiral Chapman, of Sweden, belonged to the family; and other individuals of the same stock have risen to eminence, among whom is the subject of this memoir. Mr. William Chapman was born at Whitby in 1713, and died at Newcastle in 1793. lie was possessed of strong mental powers, which he did not neglect to cultivate. For many years he took an active part in the affairs of bis native town; and, as the reader must have observed, we are indebted to his papers for some of the articles relat- ing to Whitby. He went to sea a considerable part of his time, as captain of a merchant ship ; and, during that period, he discovered an ingenious method of procuring fresh water from salt. He was on a voyage homeward from Mezeen (near Archangel) in Sept. 1757, in a vessel which was his own property; and having, by an accident off the North Cape, lost most of his stock of water, he resolved to attempt obtaining a supply of fresh water by distilling sea-wafer. A temporary still was contrived, formed by means of an old pitch pot, and other articles on board; the head being made of wood, and the worm fabri- cated out of a pewter dish. This apparatus being properly adjusted, Mr. Chapman first, tried to obtain fresh water, by mixing soap, instead of lees, with the salt water; but the water had a rank oily taste. Hav- ing with him Dr. Butler’s pamphlet on tiiis process, lie observed a quotation from Sir R. Hawkins’s voyage, stating, that Sir Richard with four billets distilled a hogshead of water wholesome and nou- rishing, but without specifying how the wood was used. Mr. Chapman, after some reflection, perceived that it could not produce this effect in the way of fuel, hut by being mixed with salt water in the form of ashes. He immediately burnt some wood to ashes, and mixing it with the sea-water in the still, he procured water not inferior to spring- water. He brought some of it with him to Shields, and treated his acquaintance there with an excellent bowl of punch, made witli the water thus produced. This discovery was published in the Transac- tions of the Royal Society, about a year after, and in the Gentleman’s Magazine for July, 1759. Yet, about 30 years ago, a parliamentary reward was assigned to another, as the ostensible inventor of the method of procuring fresh water by similar means, the discoveries of Sir R. Hawkins and Mr. Chapman being overlooked. Mr. Chapman left behind him some interesting papers, relating to the family, from which the following singular narrative is extracted. “My uncle Ingram Chapman [eldest son of William Chapman of Whitby] was a man of strong natural parts, had a good education, and was skilled in medicine, which his family and friends experienced. He went to sea when very young, where he experienced several instances of a particular providence; one of which being remarkable, and I hav- ing heard it related by one of the parties concerned, shall give it at BIOGRAPHY . 847 large. About the age of 14, he went to sea in a ship called the Providence, belonging to his father, and commanded by his half bro- ther Robert, and being on a voyage from Newcastle to Amsterdam, and going out at Hasbro’ Gatt, he had such a disturbed dream or vision as convinced him that there was some shipwreck, at no great distance, and that he must exert himself to save the crew. He im- mediately went and informed his brother of his dream, and after that went up to the mast-head, when looking to leeward, he saw, or thought he saw, part of the wreck of a ship with some people on it, and desired his brother that the ship might bear away, and he would inform them when she pointed for the wreck ; which was accordingly done, and notice taken of what point of the compass it bore. They run many miles in this direction, when he and the mate went to the mast-head, and my uncle told the mate he saw the wreck considerably plainer than before, and was certain there were men upon it. They then came down, and my uncle went below to rest himself. When they had run thus about an hour, the mate came to the master, and told him that he now saw the boy was mistaken, for he had just come from the mast- head and could see nothing, and was certain if any thing had been in sight when the boy first mentioned it, they must now have plainly seen it from the deck ; and that if they run much further to leeward they would not be able to fetch their port. The master then ordered that the ship should haul her wind, the noise of which brought up my uncle upon deck, when he run to the mast-head, and called out, that he saw the wreck very plain to leeward, and there were 5 people on it, one of whom, a little boy, had on a fisherman’s cap, and that they had a handkerchief hoisted on a stick, which some of them held up with their hands ; and he desired some of the crew might come up to him, and he would shew it them very plainly : on which several of them went up to him, and said that, where he pointed, they could see in the horizon something which appeared to them like a flock of sea-fowl swimming on the water; but his brother, believing him rather than the others, ordered the ship to be put again before the wind, and to stand as directed by my uncle. They run a great distance, before the mate from the mast-head could believe it was a wreck; but, after a consi- derable time they saw it very plain; and, when they drew near, found it exactly as described by my uncle. They hoisted out their boat, and took up the 5 people; one of whom, the lad with the fisherman’s cap, who sailed with me as my cook in the ship William, 40 years after this event happened, informed me that he was the son of a fish- erman at Cullercoats, and that the above circumstance happened in the first year of his going to sea; that they were bound from New- castle to Holland, and that on the night before the day of their being taken up, they got upon Hasbro’ sand where the ship broke to pieces, five of them got upon the quarter, which bore them a little above the surface of the sea. One of the five was a merchant passenger, the rest part of the crew ; and when they first descried the topsails of the ship that took them up, they exerted themselves as much as they could ; STATISTICAL SURVEY. 848 they got upon their legs, fastened a handkerchief to a splinter they tore from a plank, and held it up in their hands; but they were soon discouraged by perceiving that the ship had hauled her wind, yet it was not long before they found to their great joy that the ship bore away again for them. I have heard this relation many times from the above-mentioned person (the lad), who said it was the most miraculous deliverance he had ever heard of. My uncle would scarcely spe-ak of this, as he said he acted by an irresistible influence, and that it was impossible in the nature of things for the wreck to be seen when he was firmly persuaded he saw it, with all the above-mentioned circum- stances, which were visible at first to none but himself. He was a man of strong features, of a firm penetrating aspect, and a great ad* mirer of Newton, Lock, aud Hoyle.” On this singular story I make no comment, except by remarking, that while true philosophy explodes the superstitious observance of dreams and omens, it does not warrant us to reject w T ell authenticated facts, however much they may militate against received theories; and that, while we refuse to believe that Providence will deviate from the ordinary course of things for any trivial purpose, the preservation of five human beings cannot be regarded as a trivial matter. WILLIAM WILSON, ESQ. The late Capt. Wilson, of Ayton in Cleveland, holds a distin- guished place among the naval heroes of this district. He was sprung from a respectable Yorkshire family, but his father lived in London, where he was proprietor of considerable glass-works. Owing to some embarrassments in his affairs, he left William, his only surviving son, in a great measure unprovided for. He was born in 1715, aud at the age of 14 he entered the service of the East India Company, as a sailor. In the course of 15 years he passed through the different gradations of rank; and, in 1744, was advanced to the command of the Great Britain, a private ship of war, of 30 guns, and 250 men. A few days after his sailing from the Downs in this vessel, Capt. Wilson fell in with a Spanish frigate of superior force, which he obliged to sheer off; and, in a month after, he took a Spauish sloop of war, carrying despatches, with 10,000o£ in specie on board. He afterwards engaged three French West Indiamen, letters of marque, mounting from 20 to 24 guns each, and captured two of them. On quitting thd command of the Great Britain, in 1746, he re-entered the Company’s service, as captain of the Suffolk East Indiaman. Returning from China in this vessel, in 1757, he fell in with a French ship of the line, Compte lie Provence, of 74 guns, and the Sylphide frigate, of 36 guns; and, though there were no ships iu company with the Suffolk, except the Houghton and the Godolphin, Capt. Wilson, supported by Capts. Walpole and Hutchinson, commanders of those ships, bravely encountered live French men of w r ar, aud beat them off; for which heroic action, he received the thanks of the Lords of the Admiralty, as well as of the Court of Directors, who presented Ilia BIOGRAPHY. 849 with a gold medal of 100 guineas value. In the same year, the Direc- tors having fitted out, for the protection of their trade, a ship of war of 54 guns and 250 men, called the Pitt, Capt. Wilson was appointed to command her, and was at the same time constituted “commodore And commander of all ships and vessels in the Company’s service.” In this station he acquitted himself with his usual intrepidity and zeal. In the Bay of Bengal, he chased and brought to action a French ship of the line, greatly superior to his own in rate and force; and at Ba- tavia, he vindicated the rights of his country against the Dutch, and by his firmness and spirit compelled the governor-genera! to acknow- ledge, “that the English had a right to navigate, wherever it had pleased God to send water.” While in those seas. Commodore Wilson sailed from Madras to China and back, by a rout till then unknown. The straits through which he passed from the Indian seas into the Pacific Ocean, the islands which form them, with some of their capes and headlands, retain to this day the names which he save them. For the discovery of this new passage, so subservient to the interests of Eastern commerce, Commodore Wilson received at his return the thanks of the Directors, with a gold medal commemorating his ser- vices. He resigned his commission in 1762, and retired to enjoy himself in the bosom of his family at Ayton, where the lengthened evening of his life was adorned with private and public virtues. He had married, in 1755, Rachael, daughter of George Jackson, Esq. of Hill House, Richmond, Yorkshire. During his retirement at Ayton he acted as a Justice of the peace. He died at the age of 80, June 5, 1795 ; and was buried at Ayton church, where his son, Wm. Wilson, Esq. has erected an elegant monument to his memory', with an ap- propriate epitaph.* JOHN HALL STEVENSON, ESQ. John Hall, of Skelton castle. Esq. who took the name of Steven- son, on his marriage with Anne, daughter of Ambrose Stevenson, Esq., is well known in the literary world as the author of Crazy Tales, and other pieces, of which an improved edition was published in 1795. He was born in 1718, and died in 1785. He was the intimate friend of the celebrated Sterne, with whom he is thought to have become acquainted at the university of Cambridge, if not at an earlier stage of their education. After finishing his studies, Mr. Hall made the tour of Europe. His learning, wit, and convivial disposition, made his company to be desired by the literati of the age; many of whom were frequently visiting him at Skelton castle. It is observable, that per- sons of much vivacity and humour, are liable to great inequalities in their flow of spirits, being sometimes elevated to the highest pitch, and at other times exceedingly depressed. Mr. Hall was occasionally hypochondriac ; and at one time, when Sterne was a visiter at his mansion, he always fancied himself ill, when the east wind prevailed; and if, on looking from the window' of his chamber to a vane that was * See Graves’s Hist, of Cleveland, p. 200 — 203. 5 Q 350 STATISTICAL SURVEY. in sight, he perceived that the wind was from that noxioust quarter, he would lie in bed all day. One morning early, when this pestifer- ous wind was blowing, the jocund Yorick employed a youth to tie the vane, making it face the opposite point; and M,r. Hall, after con- sulting his index as usual, rose in good spirits, and passed a considerable part of the day before he observed that he had been duped into health. The success of the trick would naturally afford great merriment to the company then at the castle. — Mr. Hall was Sterne’s Evgeniys, the continuator of the Sentimental Journey. He is mentioned in several of Sterne’s letters, part of which are dated at Crazy Castle, a name facetiously given to the hospitable mansion at Skelton. Some of Mr. Hall’s writings, like those of his friend, are more conducive to mirth than to morality ; but others of his productions serve both to profit and to please. He wrote a Greek poem, descriptive of Cleveland; with an English translation. The latter is inserted in Graves’s His- tory, p. 36, 37 — Mr. Hall was buried at Skelton. He was grand- father to John Hall Wharton, of Skelton castle, Esq, M. P. for Beverley.* CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. Capt. Cook, the prince of navigators, one of the brightest orna- ments, not of this district only, but of his country, was born, October 27, 1728, at the small village of Marton. The mud-walled, thatch- roofed cottage, where he drew his first breath, which ought (if pos- sible) to have been preserved to distant ages, and decorated with evergreen shrubs and fragrant flowers, has been rased to the ground: the site is now part of the area of Major Rudd’s stable-yard, near the gate. His father, whose name was also James, and who is supposed from his dialect to have been a Northumbrian, was a day-labourer, employed chiefly by Mr. Mewburn, a farmer at Marton. His wife, who bore him 9 children, was called Grace: they were an honest, in- dustrious family; and while James was very young, they removed from Marton to Airyholm, a farm beside Ayton, where the father was hind or foreman to Thos. Skottowe, Esq. proprietor of the farm. Young Cook was taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, at the school of Mr. Pullen, in Ayton : he is said to have got his first instructions in reading from Mrs. Walker, schoolmistress at Marton. f Nothing worthy of notice appeared in his character or acquirements at school, except a resolute adherence to his own plans in preference to any pro- posed by his schoolfellows, in which we may trace the germ of that unshaken perseverance, with which, in mature life, he pursued the objects of his research. Before lie left school, w hich w as about the age of 13, he was employed at intervals to assist his father in agri- cultural labours; and this occupation he appears to have pursued for See an interesting account of Mrs. Margt. Wharton, belonging to this family, in Hutton’s Trip to Coatham, p. 153 — 161. f I give this as uncer- tain, because some accounts date the removal of the family to Ayton in 1730, when the boy tvas not 2 years old, and consequently could not have been at school : yet the accounts which state that he was 8 years at that removal are more generally received, and appear to be correct. BIOGRAPHY . 851 4 years after. His turn of mind, however, being suited to some better employment, he was placed, at the age of 17, with Mr. Wm. Sander- son, shopkeeper in Staiths, with a view to learn his business.* Here, besides the affairs of the shop, a fresh set of objects engaged the youth’s attention. His new residence commanded a view of the Ger- man Ocean, Where he coidd see crowds of vessels passing and repass- ing; his new companions were young fishermen and sailors, ever ready to converse about the adventures of a seafaring life; his leisure hours were often spent in making short excursions in cobles; and by degrees his mind became so attached to the seafaring profession, that he had ho inclination to continue in the employment of shopkeeping. Mr. Sanderson, with whom he continued only about a year and a half, did not oppose his wishes ; on the contrary, perceiving him bent on going to sea, he found out a respectable master for him in Whitbv, the late Mr John Walker, to whom he was bound apprentice for 3 years. f He served most of that time in the Freelove, of about 450 tons, em- ployed in the coal trade, that great nursery fot seamen: his last year was served in the Three Brothers, a fine new ship of near 600 tons, which by Mr. Walker’s direction he assisted in rigging and fitting for sea. This vessel, after making two coal voyages, was engaged for several months in the transport service, and was sent to Middleburgh, Dublin, &c. ; and, when paid off, was employed in the Norway trade, in which Cook finished his term of service, in July, 1749; being then nearly 21 years old. In the course of his apprenticeship, he spent Several intervals at Whitby, chiefly in the depth of winter, when the coal vessels are laid up. At those times, according to a custom then general among the ship-owners in Whitby, he lodged in his master’s house. Here his sober habits and studious turn made him a favourite with an old trusty housekeeper, many years employed in Mr. Walker’s family, who, in the winter evenings, allowed him a table and candle to read by himself, while the other apprentices were engaged in amuse- ments or idle talk. That eagerness for knowledge, which grew sio rapidly in his future life, had then begun to take deep root. — His * Almost all the accounts of his life state that he was bound apprentice to Mr. Sandersort, and some specify the term — 4 years; but l am assured by Mrs. Dodds of Boulby, daughter to Mr. Sanderson, that he was only placed on trial, or on the footing of a verbal agreement, without any indentures, f Several of his biographers make his apprenticeship 7 years, and some 9 years ; but I can state, on good authority, that he was what is called here a three years’ servant : and that the terih of his service was only 3 years, or at tlite most 4. Hence we rhay infer, that those accounts which make him not quite 13 years old at his coming to Staiths, must be erroneous; for it is agreed that he Was only about a year and a half with Mr. Sanderson, and had he been only a boy of 14 when he came to Whitby, he would not have been admitted an apprentice for a less term than 7 years. Another mistake must also be noticed here : it is frequently stated, that he was bound to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, but it is certain that he Was bound to Mr John Walker only. My information is derived from the sons of that gentleman, Henry Walker, Esq. Whitby, and John Walker, Esq. Wallsend, to whose politeness I am indebted for the use of Capt. Cook’s original letters, addressed to their father, and for several particulars relating to our great navigator, 5 Q 2 852 STATISTICAL SURVEY. practice as a seaman, from the close of his apprenticeship to his ta- tering the navy, exhibits nothing memorable. He went before the mast, as the phrase is, for near 3 years, in various ships, after which, owing to his experience in seamanship and his steady conduct, Mr. Walker made him mate of his ship Friendship, of about 400 tons In this office Mr Cook continued till the breaking cut of the war, in 1755; when, being at London in the beginning of summer, on board the Friendship, of which he had the prospect of becoming master, lie volunteered into the navy, ‘'having a mind,” as he said, “to try his fortune that way.” He entered on board the Eagle, a GO gun ship, commanded by Capt. Hamer, who was succeeded in October by Capt. (afterwards Sir Hugh) Palliser. Soon after he had entered, Mr. Walker gave him a letter of recommendation to his captain; and, several months after, Wm. Osbaldeston, Esq. M. P. for Scarborough, at the request ot several of Cook’s friends, among whom Mr. Skottowe is mentioned, wrote to Capt. Palliser on his behalf. In consequence of these recommendations, and the character w hich lit lore as an ac- tive ar.d intelligent seaman, it would appear that, after being some time in the navy, he was preferred to the station of master’s mate: in which capacity lie served on board the Pembroke, in 1758, at the taking of Louisburgh; from whence he wrote Mr. Walker a distinct account of the transactions at that place. In May, 1759, he was appointed master of the Mercury, in which he joined the fleet under Sir Chas. Saunders, employed, in conjunction with the forces under the immortal Wolfe, in the siege of Quebec. Here, on the recommen- dation of Capt. Palliser, he w as appointed to take the soundings of the river, immediately opposite the enemy’s entrenched camp at Montmorency; which perilous service he executed, much to the satis- faction of his officers, but with great danger to himself, having nar- rowly escaped being cut off by a party of Indians. Though, according to Sir Hugh Palliser, be bad scarcely used a pencil before, his draught of the channel was found so correct, that he was presently appointed to survey the whole of the St. Lawrence below Quebec, and the chart of that river which be constructed was so complete, that it has ne\er yet been superseded by any other. On Sepi. 22, 1759, he was ap- pointed master of the Northumberland, commanded by lord Colvill, and, wintering at Halifax, he employed his leisure hours in reading Euclid, and in studying astronomy and other sciences. In 1762, after the Northumberland had been employed in the recapture of Newfound- land, lie had another opportunity of displaying his talents, in surveying the harbour and heights of Placentia. In the close of that year he returned to England, and on Dec. 21, at Barking in Essex, married M iss Elizabeth Batts, an amiable and deserving lady. Next year, when Capt. Graves was appointed governor of Newfoundland, Mr. Cook went out with him as surveyor for that district ; and, after another short visit to England, he returned thither, in 1764, with his Iriend and patron. Sir Hugh Palliser, under whom he acted as marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labradore. The accurate BIOGRAPHY. m 3 surveys which he made in that capacity, for conducting which he had a schooner to attend him, were of essential benefit to navigation. On this station lie remained till 1767, except that he visited England at short intervals in winter. In 1766, he hail an opportunity of ob- serving an eclipse of the sun at Newfoundland; an account of which was sent to the Royal Society, and published in the Philosophical Transactions, Vol. o7* The deliberations of the Royal Society, in 1767 and the begin- ning of 1768, produced a result highly interesting to our illustrious countryman. They petitioned government to send out a vessel to one of the South Sea islands, with proper persons to observe the approach- ing transit of Venus, and engage in other scientific pursuits. The petition being granted, Mr. Cook was fixed on to command the expe- dition, on the recommendation of Mr. Stephens and Sir Hugh Palliser, and for this purpose he was made a lieutenant in the navy. May 2-5, 1768. The selection of a pioper vessel was intrusted to Sir Hugh PallLser, with Lieut. Cook, who made choice of the Earl Pembroke, of 370 tons, built at Whitby by the late Mr. T. Fish burn, and theu belonging to the late Mr. T. Milner of Whitby. This vessel was purchased, and named the Endeavour ; and being manned with a com- plement of 84 seamen, furnished with the necessary provisions and stores, and armed with 10 carriage guns and 12 swivels, sailed down the river July 30, 1768. The scientific gentlemen who embarked with the lieutenant were Ur. Solander, Mr. Green, and Mr. Banks, now Sir Joseph Banks. We are told, that while the Endeavour was fitting out in the river, a small Stockton trader ran athwart her bow, and did considerable damage. The master of the trader was called on hoard the Endeavour, and Lieut. Cook began to reprove him sharply for his negligence; when the other making himself known as an old school-fellow and companion, the reprimand was succeeded by acts of kindness ; memory recalled with fondness the scenes of early life, and the two friends recited with mutual pleasure their juvenile feats, and the tales of their native home. The voyage of the Endeavour, with all its interesting circum- stances, having been long known to the public, it is unnecessary to give a detailed account of it. Lieut. Cook arrived from his long and perilous voyage, June 12, 1771; and was received with that respect and admiration which his eminent talents, surprising adventures, and important discoveries, were calculated to command. The narrative of the voyage, drawn up from his journal and the papers of Mr. Banks, was prepared and published by Dr. Hawkesworth; as well as the nar- rative of the voyages of Captns. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret. — Lieut, Cook was promoted to the rank of commander, in August, 1771 ; hut * It is stated in Chalmers’s Biograph. Diet. Vol. x. p. 191, that, in 1765, Mr. Cook was with Sir Win Burnaby on the Jamaica station, and was sent by him with despatches to the governor of Jucatan ; and that a relatiou of his voyage and journey to Merida was published in 1769 : but that work, as far as respects Captain Cook’s life, presents so many gross mistakes, that I cannot depend on it, where it is not supported by other authorities. 854 STATISTICAL SURVEY. the honours which he received did not make him forget his old friends in the north. Not long after his arrival, and before the publication of nis journal, he gave Mr. Walker a short sketch of his voyage, in two letters. Tire tirst letter begins as follows: “ Dr. Sir, Mile-end, London 17th Augt. — 71. Your very obliging letter came safe to hand, for which and your kind inquiry at.er my health L return you my most sincere thanks. I should have written much sooner, but have been in expectation for several days past of an order to make my Voyage public, after which I could have written vxitli freedom: as this point is not ytt determined upon, I lie under some restraint. 1 may however venture to inform you, that the voyage has fully answered the expectations of my superiors. 1 tiad the honour of an hour’s conference with tile king the other day, who was pleased to express his approbation at' my conduct in terms that were ervlremelv pleasing to me. 1 however have made no very great discoveries, jet 1 have explored more of the Great South Sea than all that have gone before me; in so much that little remains now to be done to have a thorough knowledge of that part of the globe. — I Sailed from England as well provided tor such a voyage as possible, and a better ship for su.di a service I never coul t wish for.’’ The Captain then goes on to relate, that they touched at Madeira, Rio Janeiro, and Straits le Maire, doubled Cape Horn, and arrived at George's Island, or Otaheite, April 13, 1769; having discovered some islands in their rout thi- ther. He states the friendly reception given them by the natives , and the good observation they had oj the transit of Venus; and deferring the conti- rmation of the narrative to another letter, concludes in these words : ‘"Should 1 come into the north, 1 shall certainly call upon jou, and am with great respect, Sir, Your most obliged humble Servant, Jam s . Cook.” The second letter, which is dated “ Mile-end London 13tli Sept. 1771, ” sets out with some remarks on the South Sea islands which Capt. Cook de- scribes as of two kinds, “very low, or very mountainous.” Of the latter he remarks: “The mountainous parts of the high islands are in general dry and barren, and as it were burnt up with tlie sun; but all these islands use skirted round with a border of low land, which is fertile and pleasant to a very high degree, being well clothed with various sorts of fruit trees, which nature hath planted here for the use of the happy natives. These people may be said to be exempt d from the curse of our forefathers; scarce can it be said that they earn their bread by the sweat of their brows : benevolent na- ture hath not only provided them with necessaries, but many of the luxuries of life. Loaves of bread, or at least what serves as a most excellent substi- tute, grow here in a manner spontaneously upon trees, besides a great many other fruits and roots ; and the sea-coasts are well stored with a vast variety of excellent fish. They have only three species of tame animals, hogs, dogs, and fowls; all of which they eat. Dogs we learned from them also to eat; and there vveie but few among us who did not think, that a South Sea dog eat as well as an English lamb. Were 1 (o give a full description of these islands, the manners ami customs of ihe inhabitants, &c. it would lar exceed the bounds of a letter. I must therefore quit these terrestrial paradises, in order to follow the course of our voyage ” — He then relates, that they quitted the tropical regions in the beginning of August, 1769, steered southward, tend then westward, till they fell in with New Zealand, which they circumna- vigated. Of that country and its people, Capt. Cook speaks in thest terms : •‘it is a hilly, mountainous country, but rich and fertile, especially the northern parts, where it is also well inhabited. The inhabitants of this e&untry are a strong, well made, active people, rather above the common sizc^ BIOGRAPHY. 855 they are of a very dark brown colour, with long black hair: they arc also a brsyve, warlike people, with sentiments voitl of treachery; their arms are spears, clubs, halberts, battle-axes, darts, and stones. They live in strong- holds, or fortified towns, built in well chosen situations, and according to art. We had frequent skirmishes with them, always where we were not known; our fire-arms gave us the superiority: at first some of them were killed, but we at last learned how to manage them without taking away their lives: and when once peace was settled, they ever after were our very good friends. These people speak the same language as the people of the isouth Sea islands we had before visited, though distant from them many hundred leagues, and though they have not the least knowledge of them, nor of any other people whatever. Their chief food is fish and fern roots: they have too, in some places, large plantations of potatoes, such as we have in the West Indies, and likewise yams, &c. Land animals they have none, either wild or tame, except dogs, which they breed for food. This country produceth a grass plant, like flags, of the nature of hemp or flax, but superior in quality to either. Of this the natives make clothing, lines, nets, &c. The men very often go naked, with only a narrow belt about their waists ; the women on the contrary never appear naked. Their government, religion, notions of the creation of the world, mankind, &.c. are much the same as those of the natives ofthe South Sea islands.” — The letter goes on to describe the caas'ing voyage along the east side of N 'em Holland, and the imminent dangers encountered in surveying that coast. Concerning the inhabitants of New Holland, the following observations are made: “The natives of this ■country are not numerous: they are of a very dark brown or chocolate colour, with lank black hair: they are under the common size, and seem to be a timorous, inoffensive race of men : they spoke a very different language from any we had met with. Men, women and children go wholly naked. It is said of our first parents, after they had eaten of the forbidden fruit, they saw themselves naked and were ashamed; these people are naked and are not ashamed. They live chiefly on fish and wild fowl, and such other articles as the land naturally produceth, for they do not cultivate one fool of it. These people may truly be said to be in the pure state of nature, and may appear to some to be the most wretched upon earlh ; but in reality they are far more happy than we Europeans, being wholly unacquainted not only with the su- perfluities, but with any of the necessary eonveniencies so much sought after in Europe : they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live in a tranquillity which is not disturbed by th.- inequality of condition; the earth and sea furnish them with all things necessary for life; they covet not mag- nificent houses, household stuff, &c. : they sleep as sound in a small hovel, or even in the open air, as the king in his palace on a bed of down.” After noticing their touching at New Guinea and steering from thence to Batama % the letter closes thus : “ We arrived at Batavia in Oct. all in good health and high spirits. On arriving at a European settlement we thought all our hardships at an end ; but Providence thought proper to order it otherwise: the repairs the ship wanted caused a delay of near 10 weeks, in which time we contracted sicknesses that here and on our passage to the Cape of Good Hope carried off above thirty of my people. The remainder of the voyage was attended with no material circumstance. If any interesting circumstance should oc- cur to me that I have omitted I will hereafter acquaint you with it. I how- ever expect that my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty will very soon publish the whole voyage, charts, &c. Another voyage is thought of, with two ships, which if it take place, I believe the command will be conferred upon me. — If there is any thing that I can inform you of further, in regard to my late voyage, I shall take a pleasure in doing it : and believe me to bs your obliged servant, Jam 5 . Cook,” S56 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Some time after these letters were written. Captain Cook paid a visit to M r. W alker and his other friends in the north, who of course received hi in with much kindness and respect. He was soon after employed in making' preparations for a second voyage, government having resolved to send out two vessels under his command, to deter- mine the disputes relating to the existence of a southern continent. The choice of the vessels being left to himself, he selected two ships, nearly new, built, like the Endeavour, by Mr. Fishburn of Whitby ; the one, of 452 tons, was named the Resolution; the other, of 33G tons, was called the Adventure: both were purchased of Mr Win. Hammond of Hull. These vessels being fitted out with every tiling proper for the voyage, the Resolution, manned with 1 12 men, was put under the immediate command of Capt. Cook; the Adventure, man- ned with 81 men, was intrusted to Lieut. Furneaux, subject to Capt. Cook’s orders. Previous to his departure, Capt. Cook communicated to the Royal Society, May 21, 1772, “an account of the flowing of the tides in the South Sea.” Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser paid much attention to the outfit of the two ships, and visited Capt. Cook on board the Resolution, immediately before she put to sea. The expedition sailed from Sheerness, June 22; and from Plymouth, July 13. The scientific gentlemen on board were Messrs. Hodges, Forster (senr. aiuljunr.), Wales, and Bayley. The ships arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, Oct. 30, and remained there till Nov. 22. During their stay, Capt. Cook wrote the following letter to his friend Mr. Walker. “ Dear Sir, Cape of Good Hope, 20th Xov. 1772. Having nothing new to comniunieale, I should hardly have troubled you with a letter, were it not customary for men to take leave of their friends before they go out of the world; for I can hardly think my- self in it so long as I am deprived of having any connection with the civilized part of it, and this will soon be my case for two years at least. When 1 think of the inhospitable parts I am going to, I think the voyage dangerous; I however enter upon it with great cheerfulness. Providence has been very kind to me on many occasions, and I trust in the continuance of the divine protection. I have two good ships, well provided and well manned. You must have heard of the clamour raised against the Resolution before I left England : I can assure you I never set foot in a finer ship. Please to make my best respects to all friends at Whitby, and believe me to be, with great regard and esteem, your most affectionate. Friend, Jam 5 . Cook.” Capt. Cook completed his second voyage on the 30th of July, 1775, when he arrived at Spithead. His countrymen of all ranks cordially welcomed his return, and, being made acquainted with his discoveries and adventures, honoured hint as the first of navigators. On the 9th of August, he was advanced to the rank of post captain; and, three days after, he was appointed a captain in Greenwich Hos- pital, as a situation of profit and retirement, after his arduous services. In the same month he wrote the following letter to Mr. IV alker. BIOGRAPHY. 857 “Dear Sir, Mile-end, 19th Aug. 1775. As I have not now time to draw up an account of such occurrences of the voyage as I wish to communicate to you, I can only thank you for your obliging letter, and kind inquiries after me during my absence. I must however tell you, that the Resolution was found to answer on all oc- casions even beyond my expectation, and is so little injured by the voyage that she will soon be sent out again. But I shall not command her: my fate drives me from one extreme to another: a few months ago, the whole southern hemisphere was hardly big enough for me, and now I am going to be confined within the limits of Greenwich Hospital, which are far too small for an active mind like mine. I must however confess, it is a fine retreat and a pretty in- come; but whether I can bring myself to love ease and retirement, time will •hew. — Mrs. Cook joins with me in best respects to you and all your family ; and believe me to be, with great esteem, Dr. Sir, Your most affectionate friend and Humble Servt. Jams. Cook.” In the following month, Capt. Cook wrote his much esteemed friend a long letter, relating the principal incidents of the voyage ; of which it will be proper to give an abstract. “Dear Sir, Mile End, London, Sept. 14th, 1775. I now sit down to fulfil the promise I made you in my last, which was to give you some account of my late voyage; which I am the more at liberty to do, as it will be published as soon as the drawings which are to accompany it can be got engraved.” — The Captain gives an account of his voyage from the Cape into the southern ocean, where his progress mas stopped by mountains of ice ; his arrival at New Zealand-, his progress in the Pacific Ocean, and his arrival at the Society Isles. He then proceeds thus : “ The good people of these isles gave us every thing the isles produced, with a liberal and full hand ; and we left them with our decks crowded with pigs, and our rigging loaded with fruit. I next visited Amsterdam [Tonga- taboo], in latitude 21°, an island discovered by the Dutch in 1642: it is one of those happy isles on which Nature has been lavishing of her favours; and its inhabitants are a friendly benevolent race, and readily supply the wants of the navigator, From this isle I steered for New Zealand, and after hav- ing been some days in sight of our port, the Adventure was again separated from me, after which I saw her no more. After waiting something more than 3 weeks for her in Queen Charlotte’s Sound, I put to sea and stood to the south, where I met with nothing but ice, and excessive cold had weather. Here I spent near four months, beating about between the latitude of 48° and 68° : once I got as high as 71°. 10', and farther it was not possible to go for ice, which lay as firm as land : here we saw ice mountains, whose lofty sum- mits were lost in the clouds. X was now fully satisfied that there was no southern continent ; I nevertheless resolved to spend some time longer in these seas, and with this resolution I stood away to the north ; and on the 14th of March, 1774, I found and anchored at Easter island, the only land I had seen from leaving New Zealand. The people of this isle received us kindly ; we got from them some sweet potatoes and fruit, which was of great service to us, as we were in great want of refreshments ; particularly myself, who had but just recovered of a dangerous illness : the most of my people were how- ever pretty healthy. This island lies in the latitude of 27°. 6'. S. longitude of 109° 52'. W. ; is about 12 leagues in circuit, rather barren, and without any wood or good fresh water, or even a safe road : consequently my stay was short. It does not contain many inhabitants, and we saw but few women in proportion to the men : they are a slender people, and go almost naked. At tjiis isle are stone statues of a vast size, erected along the sea coast : we saw 858 STATISTICAL SURVEY. some 27 feet high, of a proportional thickness, and all of one piece. We judged them to be places dedicated to the dead: their shape was a rude re- semblance of a man, crowned with a great stone in the shape of a drum, but vastly larger. I next visited the Marquesas, which He in 1 0° south latitude, and are inhabited by a friendly and handsome race of people. Here we got plenty of fruit, and some pork, and fresh water. From the Marquesas I steered for Otaheite, where I arrived the latter end of April. I now found this isle in the most flourishing state imaginable, and was received by the inhabitants with a hospitality altogether unknown in Europe. I remained at this and the Society isles till the 4th of June, when I proceeded to the west, touched at Amsterdam, and discovered some small isles of little note. After this I fell jn with the land discovered by Quiros, and afterwards visited by Bougain- ville, but explored by neither: I found it to consist of a group of isles [the Sen Hebrides ], extending from 14° to 20° south latitude. The inhabitants of these isles were far less civilized than those more to the east ; and composed three different nations, one of which was a small race with apish faces, and used poisoned arrows. They were all warlike, and obliged us to be continually upon our guard, and to work with our arms in hand: they seemed to be very numerous, and go almost naked; they are of a very dark colour, inclining to black, and some of them have woolly hair. The isles are fertile and yield fruit and roots: we saw no animals but hogs and fowls; they have not so much as a name for goats, dogs, or cats; and consequently can have no know- ledge of them. Some of them gave us to understand, in such a manner as admitted of little doubt, that they eat human flesh. After leaving these isles, I hauled away to the S.W. and on the 4th of Sept, discovered a large island, which I ealled Nova Caledonia. It extends from 19° to 22°^ south latitude. This country is inhabited by a friendly race: our landing in their country gave them not the least apparent uneasiness, and they suffered us to go wher- ever we pleased. They are a stout, well made people, of a dark colour, with long frizzled hair; and wear little clothing. The country is rather bar- ren, and very mountainous and rocky, consequently unfit for cultivation. All that can be cultivated is done, and is planted with yams and other roots, and ■erne fruit. This country produceth fine timber for masts, and such like purposes ; which is what I have not found in any other tropical isle. The coast is beset with shoals and breakers, which, in many places, extend a long way out to sea ; so that we ran no little risk in exploring it, and at last were obliged to leave it unfinished. From Caledonia I steered for New Zealand, and in the latitude of 29°. discovered a small uninhabited isle, covered with fine timber. Oct. 19th, we anchored the third time in Queen Charlotte’s Sound in New Zealand, where we remained three weeks. The inhabitants of this place gave us some account of some strangers haying been killed by them ; but we did not understand that they were part of our consort’s crew till we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope. That the New Zealanders are cannibals will no longer be disputed, not only from the melancholy fate of the Adventure’s people, and Captain Marion and his fellow sufferers, but from what I and my whole crew have seen with our eyes. Nevertheless I think them a good sort of people, at least 1 have always found good treatment amongst them .” — After relating the voyage round Cape Horn, and to the Cape of Good Hope, the letter thus concludes : “ I left the Cape on the 27th of April, touched at St. Helena, Ascension, and Fayal, and arrived at Spit- head the 30th of July ; having only lost four men from the time of my leaving England ; two were drowned, one was killed by a fall, and one died of the dropsy, and a complication of other disorders, without the least mixture of the scurvy. This Sir, is an imperfect outline of my voyage, which I hope you will excuse, as the multiplicity of business I have now on my hand will not admit of my being more particular or accurate. Any thing further you may want te know, you will always find me ready tc communicate. I did expect, and BIOGRAPHY. 859 was in hopes, that I had put an end to all voyages of this kind to the Pacific Ocean, as ire are now sure that no southern continent exists there, unless so near the pole that the coast cannot be navigated for ice, and therefore not worth the discovery ; but the sending home Omiah [or Omai ] will occasion another voyage, which I expect will soon be undertaken. Mrs Cook joins me in best respects toy ou and all your family, and believe me to be with great esteem, Yours most sincerely, Jams. Cook. P. S. My Compliments to Mr. Ellerton, if he is yet living.” The narrative of Capt Cook’s second voyage was prepared by himself; but lie had not the pleasure of seeing it published, for the work was not printed before he set out on his third voyage. The Ge- neral Introduction is dated at Plymouth, July 7, 1776; only 5 days before he sailed: the publication was superintended by Dr. Douglas, afterwards bishop of Carlisle. In the beginning of 1776, Capt. Cook was elected a member of the Royal Society; and, on the evening of his admission, his paper addressed to Sir John Pringle, on the method which he took to preserve the health of his crew, was read to the so- ciety. For this essay, as being the best paper for the year, the annual gold medal of Sir Godfrey Copley was subsequently assigned him, and delivered to Mrs. Cook, after his departure. At the assignment of the medal, Sir John Pringle, the president, addressed the society in an elegant discourse on the value of Capt. Cook’s services and ta- lents, particularly in regard to the subject of his essay. The reader must have observed, from the close of the letter to Mr. Walker, dated Sept. 14, 1775, that a new voyage to the Pacific Ocean was then projecting, and that our hero had thoughts of under- taking it. The conveyance of Omai to his own country, however, formed but a small part of the objects in view, the grand design of the proposed voyage being the discovery of a northern passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. When a commander was wanted for the new expedition, all eyes were fixed on Capt. Cook; jet no direct proposition was made to him on the subject, as it was thought unrea- sonable to demand fresh sacrifices, from one who had encountered such perils in serving his country, and done so much for the cause of navi- gation and science: but, when his friends, the earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and Mr. Stephens, consulted him respecting the voy- age, he volunteered his services, which were joyfully accepted, and his appointment was fixed Feb. 10, 1776. That this appointment, so congenial to his enterprising mind, was as satisfactory to himself as to the public, appears from a letter which he wrote four days after to his friend at Whitby, a copy of which is subjoined. “Dear Sir, Mile End, London, 14th Feb. 1776, I should have answered your last favour sooner, but waited to know whether I should go to Greenwich Hospital or the South Sea. The latter is now fixed upon ; I expect to be ready to sail about the latter end ♦f April, with my old ship the Resolution, and the Discovery,* the ship lately * Built at Whitby, in 1774, by Messrs. G. and N. Langborne, for Mr. Herbert of Scarborough, and first called the Diligence : it measured 5 R 2 860 STATISTICAL SURVEY. purchased of Mr. Herbert. I know not what your opinion may be on this step [ have taken. It is certain I have quitted an easy retirement, for an active, and perhaps dangerous voyage. My present disposition is more favourable to the latter than the former; and I embark on as fair a prospect as I can wish. If I am fortunate enough to get safe home, there is no doubt but it will be greatly to my advantage. My best respects to all your family ; and if any of them come this way, I shall be glad to see them at Mile-End, where they will meet with a hearty welcome from, Dear Sir, Your most sincere friend and humble servant. Jams. Cook.” This is the last letter to Mr. Walker that is known to be extaut. His friendship for that gentleman was permanent, and in a letter which cannot now be found, he intimated, that he might have been as happy in Mr. Walker’s employment, as he felt himself in the high station which he filled, where he had gained nothing but “empty honours.” His honours alas! were transient, as well as empty ; and the flattering- prospects with which he engaged in this third voyage w r ere never !o be realued. It is unnecessary to enter on the particulars of that voyage, the narrative of which, collected from the journals of Capt. Cook and his successors, was published by Dr. Douglas, bishop of Carlisle. Suffice it to say, that our great navigator, before he set sail, was honoured with the same attentions as formerly from lord Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others; that he sailed from Sheerness in the Resolution, June 25, 1776, and from Plymouth, July 12th; that he arrived at the Cape, Oct 18, and was there joined by the Discovery, commanded by Capt. Clerke; that, after visiting some islands discovered by the French, they proceeded to Van Diemen’s Land and New Zealand, and thence to ihe Friendly islands, where they spent a considerable time, as they also did at the Society isles, where Omai was left Nov. 2, 1777; that they discovered several islands, particularly the group called the Sandwich isles; that they explored, in 1778, a great part of the western coasts of North America, passed Behring’s straits in August; and, having in vain attempted to find a northern passage into the Atlantic, returned to winter at the Sandwich isles. It was here that our admired countryman finished his career of glory. After spending some months in friendly intercourse with the natives, parti- cularly those of Owhyhee, he sailed from that island, Feb, 4, 1779; but the Resolution receiving some damage in a storm, he returned on the 11th. This return proved fatal to our great commander, who in taking strong measures for the recovery of some stolen property, was fiercely attacked by the natives, and not being properly supported by his people in the boats, was barbarously massacred, Feb. 14, 1779. His bones, and other mangled remains, which the savages were com- 295 Ions, and was manned in this expedition with 80 men . — The Adventure, though not admitted to accompany the Resolution in ker last voyage, outlived the other vessels then employed. She belonged several years to a Air. Brown of Hull, and more recently to Messrs. Appleton and Trattles of Whitby. She underwent a thorough repair in the dock of Messrs. Langborne in 1810, bi'tmas wrecked in the gulf of St. Lawrence in 1811. f \ JR. S. BIOGRAPHY. SGI gelled to deliver up, were committed to the deep in Kavakakooa bay, on that day week, amidst the heart-felt grief of the survivers. Capt. Cook was above six feet high: his personal appearance was plain, but manly;* a remark which applies to his manners, and his style of writing. His constitution partook of the vigour of his in- tellect, and this, with his habitual temperance, contributed to fit him for those arduous enterprises, which his bold and penetrating genius, his indefatigable application, and undeviating perseverance eminently qualified him to undertake. The stronger features of his character were softened by his general humanity and benevolence, yet his per- severing firmness, discovered in his whole conduct, had sometimes the appearance of sternness and inflexible severity, in matters relating to discipline; and to this some attribute his being left unsupported, at that critical moment, when Lieut. John Williamson and the men in the launch might probably have saved his life. Perhaps their conduct is rather to be ascribed to confusion, fear, and anxiety ; for, in general, his men not only placed unlimited confidence in his talents, but were cordially attached to him. Indeed, no commander ever took more pains to promote the health and comfort of his crew; and the service which he rendered to humanity, by publishing the methods pursued for that purpose, is justly deemed one of the happiest results of his labours. The extensive preservation of the lives of seamen, attribut- able to his efforts, will more than counterbalance some acts of blood- shed, committed among the Indians, during these voyages of discovery: some of these acts were committed without his orders, or resulted from accident or necessity; but others must be ascribed to his im- movable adherence to his own plans, warranted perhaps by policy, yet not by justice and humanity. In the letters and journals of Capt. Cook we observe many devout sentiments, and tokens of regard for religion ; but it is much to be regretted that, in this respect, his con- duct, like that of most other navigators and travellers, was far from being consistent. Besides the general neglect of divine service, too apparent from his journals, he was chargeable with a most glaring deviation from the line of duty, in permitting the inhabitants of Owhy- hee to adore him as a god. He allowed them to seat him among their idols, to array him in the dress of their gods, to offer sacrifice before him, to prostrate themselves in his presence, and to chant hymns to his honour: nay, he himself did homage to their chief idol, while he took his station among the subordinate deities. Doubtless he was led on by an eager desire to know the customs of the natives ; but curiosity must never be gratified at the expense of duty : and, if curi- osity could excuse the first acts, why were the same idolatrous cere- monies allowed to be repeated ? And why were they permitted on that sacred day when the officers and crews, instead of giving countenance * The annexed portrait is esteemed an excellent likeness. The name is a facsimile of the captain’s signature, copied from one of his letters to Mr. Walker. The reader may see a neater specimen, but not more faithful, ix the Chart of part of the South Sea, delineating the track of his first Voyage. §62 STATISTICAL SURVEY. to the gross idolatries of pagans, ought to have been peculiarly em- ployed in worshipping the God of heaven and earth? It is a striking /act, that our navigator fell a sacriliee to the barbarous fury of that people who had offered sacrifice to himself a month before, on the same day of the week; and that Koah and other natives, who were chief actors in the idolatrous scenes, bore a principal part in the bloody tragedy which followed. Far be it from me to deduce from this fact any unwarrantable inferences. Many have died happy, whose death lias occurred under apparent tokens of the divine displeasure. I no- tice the fact, not to tarnish t lie memory of our honoured countryman, nor hurt the feelings of his friends, but for the benefit of others ; and i call on every British seaman who shall read these pages, to consider the danger and dishonour of forgetting in distant lands the religion of his fathers. Who is there that does not wish that Cook, on the occa- sion alluded lo, had acted otherwise, that his sun might not have seemed to set in a cloud? Let Britons in every clime venerate their religion, as well as their country. The preeminent rank of the latter may be traced in a great degree to the sacred influence of the former; for true Christianity expands and exults the soul, and to ils ennobling energy Britain is much indebted for that high character for moral and intellectual worth, which she has long maintained. It would be wrong, however, to quit this subject without remarking, that the labours of Capt. Cook have been eminently subservient to the progress of Christi- anity, and to the best interests of mankind. His notions of the hap- piness of the South Sea islanders are in a great measure fanciful, being inconsistent with his own statements, and with the nature of things; for how can a people be happy who are living in treachery and self- ishness, in savage cruelty and brutal lust ? But Cook opened fur them the door of real bliss. The Society isles are now becoming happy isles indeed, rescued from absurd idolatries and abominable vices, and enriched with the blessings of Christianity and of civilization, through the arduous labours of faithful missionaries. Even the cannibals of New Zealand begin to receive the same felicity; and in future ages the natives of those distant isles will venerate the memory of that en- terprising man, who first made them known to the Christian world. The death of Capt. Cook was lamented as an irreparable loss, not only to his family and friends and country, but to Europe and to the world. Medals in gold, silver, and bronze, representing his like- ness, and commemorating his achievements, were struck under the direction of the Royal Society. One of the gold medals was sent to the empress of Russia, in whose dominions, at Kamtschatka, he had been hospitably entertained; and another was presented to ihe king of France, who, in the beginning of 1779, when at war with Britain, issued an order, that none of Lis ships should molest Capt. Cook; an prder, which reflected equal honour on that monarch, and on our illus- trious navigator. A handsome provision w as made for the captain’s widow and family; 200 l=£ yearly being settled on Mrs. Cook, and 25o£ yearly on e^ch of his three sous. He had other two sons and a daughter. BIOGRAPHY. 863 who died young: the three suvvivers were brought up in the service of their country, and James, the eldest, rose to the rank of a lieutenant jn the navy ; but a premature death cut them oil from inheriting the well-earned honours of their father. Mrs. Cook still survives, and now resides at Clapham, near London. — Gapt. Cook was very atten- tive to his relations in the north, as Mrs. Cook lias also been since his decease. His father lived to an advanced age, and spent the close of his life at Redcar with his daughter Margaret, the wife of Mr. James Fleck, a respectable fisherman and shopkeeper in Redcar, who is still alive Mrs. Fleck outlived all the rest of Mr. Cook’s children; and all his remaining descendants are of her offspring. She left three sons, all master-mariners; and four daughters: and as all the seven were married, her offspring are numerous. Of these seven, two have died; viz. Mr Thos. Fleck, of Boston ; and Mrs. Margt. Thompson, of Redcar: and five are living; viz. Mr. James Fleck, of Redcar ; Mr. John Fleck, of Sunderland ; Mrs. Grace Carter, of Redcar; Mrs. Mary Duck, of Whitby; and Mrs. Christiana Hustler, formerly of Whitby, now of London. These nephews and nieces of Capt. Cook, with their progeny, are his only near relations, now remaining, be- sides Mrs. Cook. — It has more than once been in agitation, to erect a monument to his memory on Rosebury Topping; and Major Rudd, the proprietor, has cheerfully consented to the proposal; but no ade- quate subscription has yet been raised. The erection of such a mo- nument is more requisite for the honour of his country, than tor the perpetuity of his fame.* CONSTANTINE JOHN, LORD MULGRAVE, AND THE NOBLE FAMILY OF PHIPPS. The Right Hon. Constantine John, late Lord Muigrave, is en- titled to a distinguished place among the heroes, navigators, and statesmen of his country. His father Constantine Phipps, created Lord Muigrave, of the kingdom of Ireland, in 1767, was the son ot William Phipps (son of Constantine Phipps) lord chancellor of Ireland in 1714, by Catherine, daughter and heiress of James, Earl of An- glesea Her mother, Catherine, Countess of Anglesea, afterwards Dutchess of Buckinghamshire, was a natural daughter of king James II She lived frequently at Muigrave castle, where she had her re- sidence both before and after the death of her son, the last Duke of Buckinghamshire. After her decease, the crown lease of the Muigrave estates was inherited by her grandson, the said Constantine Phipps, created Lord Muigrave, who married Lepel, eldest daughter of John, Lord Hervey, by whom he had several children. Constantine John, the eldest son, was born May 9, 1744. At an early age, he shewed a strong predilection for the naval service, and was a midshipman on * Shall then no monumental stone be rear’d To him whom sages mourn’d and kings rever’d ? Cook wants not borrow’d glory from our hand, His fame immortal shines in every land. Winter's Harp of St. Hilda, p. 23. 864 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Tioard the Dragon of 74 guns, commanded by his maternal uncle, the Hon. Augustus John Hervey, afterwards Earl of Bristol; in which vessel he served at an attack on Martinique. He was chosen M. P. for Lincoln in 1768, an honour which he held till 1774. In 1773, when he had attained the rank of a captain, he was appointed, as com- modore, to undertake a voyage of discovery towards the north pole, with a view to (ind out a northern passage towards China. For this purpose, the Racehorse bomb ketch, of 350 tons, was put under his com- mand; with the Carcase, of 300 tons, commanded by Capt Skiffing- ton Lutwych; and, the ships being properly manned and fitted out, the expedition sailed from Sheerness, June 3, 1773. They reached the ice in the beginning of July, and having refreshed themselves at Spitzbergen, they proceeded in a north-easterly direction, coasting along a solid continent of ice, while numerous floating masses were often impeding their progress. At length, when they had nearly reached 81° north latitude, they were enclosed by the ice, August 1. In this trying situation. Commodore Phipps displayed great courage and presence of mind, and his noble behaviour, seconded by that of his officers, kept up the spirits of the almost desponding crew, and roused them to the most strenuous exertions.* After cutting out a dock in the ice, where the ships could lie without the risk of being crushed to pieces, they attempted to cut a channel into the open sea; but the attempt was vain, for the ice had collected around them to such an extent, that it seemed to form one entire continent, as far a* the eye could reach. At the expiration of a week, the commodore took 50 men from each ship, to drag along the ice the boats of both vessels, previously fitted up for that purpose; with a view to launch them into the open sea, on their arrival at the edge of the ice; this appearing the most likely method of obtaining deliverance, ('apt. Lutwych, with the rest of the crew, being left to take care of both ships, and to improve any favourable change that might occur, the "two bands of haulers set out on their arduous expedition, the one headed by the commodore, the other by the lieutenants ; and the spirits of the seamen were not a little encouraged at seeing their officers, and even the commodore himself, drawing along with them, and afterwards dining with them on the ice, when they halted to re- fresh themselves. The following passage in the narrative of the voyage presents such an admirable pattern for every officer, that I make no apology for extracting it. “The officers who headed them were de- servedly beloved, as wellastheircommanders, particularly Lieut. Beard* * Fearless he stood, when frozen floods surround, And the strong ship in crystal chains was bound ; — When hope has dwindled to the smallest speck, And crowding ice has risen to the deck ; The ship half coffin’d in the biting frost. And home and country seem for ever lost ; Undaunted Phipps survey’d the frightful scene, With heart unconquer’d, and his mind serene. , Harp of St. Hilda, p. 17, 1ft. S10GRAPHY. 863 whose steady and uniform conduct in limes of the greatest danger, cannot be sufficiently admired or applauded. Neither swayed by pas- sion, nor disconcerted by the sudden embarrassments that often in- tervened, his conduct was always calm, and his orders resolute. He never was heard, during the whole voyage, on the most pressing emergencies, to enforce his commands with an oath, or to call a sailor by any other than his usual name; and so sensible were they of his manly behaviour, that, when the ship was paid off at Deptford, they were only prevented by his most earnest request from stripping them- selves to their shirts, to cover the streets with their clothes, that he might not tread in the dirt in going to take coach.” From this ex- ample let all officers learn the important lesson, that respect is not to be procured by blustering and swearing, but by a happy union of firmness and moral goodness, dignity and mildness. — The fatigues of Capt. Phipps and his people were soon agreeably interrupted, by the sudden breaking up of the ice, in consequence of which they returned to the ships; and after a series of narrow escapes, in which the hand of a gracious Providence was acknowledged, they reached Spitzbergen in safety, on the 12th.; when, finding it impracticable to pursue the objects of their voyage any further, they set sail for England, and arrived safely at the Nore, Sept. 28. Though the expedition failed in its main object, the observations made were subservient to the pro- gress of science, particularly of geography and natural history. Some of our whalers have occasionally reached a much higher latitude: in the present season (1817), the sea appeared to be open as far as the 83d. or 84th degree. In 1774, the perpetuity of the lease of Mulgrave estates was purchased from the crown by Lord Mulgrave, for o£30,000, besides a yearly quit-rent of <=£1200. At his decease, in 1775, Capt. Phipps succeeded to the title and estates;* and in 1777, was chosen M. P. for Huntingdon. He was appointed one of the lords of tire admiralty, a situation which he held till 1782, without relinquishing the naval service. At the beginning of the American war, his Lordship was captain of the Ardent, of 64 guns, with which he cruised in the Bay of Biscay. In the action off Ushant, July 27, 1778, his Lordship, who then commanded the Courageux of 74 guns, bore a distinguished part. In one stage of the engagement, when the Courageux attempted to pass to windward of a French ship of the line, the master informed him that the two ships were likely to come into contact ; “Never fear,” said his Lordship, “give him the stem; the oak of old England will be too hard for the Frenchman.” The enemy’s ship dreading the ren- contre, immediately bore away. In January, 1781, his Lordship captured the French frigate Minerva, after an obstinate engagement; and .in the action near Gibraltar, Oct. 20, 1782, he led the van of the fleet under Lord Howe. After the peace, Lord Mulgrave had an * Some have designated his father, Constantine, Lord Mulgrave, “a captain in the royal navy”; but this is a mistake; the first Lord Mulgrave was never engaged in any profession. For the correction of this mistake, and some others, I am indebted to the politeness of the Earl of Mulgrave. 5 S 866 STATISTICAL SURVEY. important share in the affairs of state : in 1784, he was chosen M. P. for Newark, made joint paymaster general of the forces, and ap- pointed one of the commissioners for managing the affairs of the East India Company : besides which, he had the hononr to be a lord of the committee of council for trade and foreign plantations. He was raised to the rank of a British peer, June 16, 1790. His Lordship married, in 1787, Anne Elizabeth, daughter of Nathaniel Cholmley, Esq., who died May 22, 1788, after bearing one daughter, Anne Elizabeth Cholmley, who was married, Aug. 25, 1807, to Lieut. General Sir John Murray, Bart. Lord Mulgrave died, Oct. 10, 1792; and his re- mains were deposited, beside those of his lady, in Lyth Church, where two elegant monuments, with appropriate inscriptions and devices, were erected to their memory. His Lordship was a man of great talents and learning ; and possessed an extensive and intimate acquaintance with naval architecture, aud nautical affairs in general, as well as with political economy and the constitution of his country. He was a member of the Royal Society. Constantine John, Lord Mulgrave, having left no male issue, his brother Henry, born, Feb. 14, 1755, succeeded to the Irish title, and the estates. In 1794, the English title w as conferred on his Lordship ; and, in 1812, he was created Earl of Mulgrave, and Viscount Normanby; which last title is enjoyed by his eldest son. His Lordship is master- general of the board of ordnance. He married, Oct. 20, 1795, Sophia, daughter of C. T. Maling, Esq., of West Henington, by whom he has issue, four sons, Constantine Henry, Lord Normanby, born May 15, 1797; Charles Beaumont; Edmund; and Augustus Frederick : and three daughters, Katherine Frederica; Sophia; and Lepel Charlotte: -besides two daughters who have died. His Lordship’s brothers are, the Hon. Edmund Phipps, a General in the army, and M. P. for Scar- borough; and the Hon. Augustus Phipps, one of the commissioners of excise. His sister Henrietta Maria, Viscountess Dillon, was mother to the present Lord Viscount Dillon. MR. RICHARD HORNBY.* Mr. Richard Hornby, of Stokesley, deserves, like Thos. Brown, to be honourably mentioned, for an instance of heroism almost without a parallel. He was master of a merchant-ship, the Isabella of Sun- derland, in which he sailed from the coast of Norfolk for the Hague, June 1, 1744, in company- with three smaller vessels, recommended to his care. Next day they made Gravesant steeple in the Hague, but while they were steering for their port, a French privateer, that lay concealed among the Dutch fishing boats, suddenly- came against them, singling out the Isabella as the object of attack, while the rest dispersed and escaped. The contest was very- unequal ; for the Isabella mounted only 4 carriage guns and 2 swivels, and her crew consisted of only 5 men and 3 boys, besides the captain; while the privateer, the Marquis de Brancas, commanded by C'apt. Andre, had 10 carriage guns and 8 swivels, with 75 men, aud 300 small arms. * This gentleman ought to have followed John Dean. BIOGRAPHY. 867 Y’et Capt. Hornby, after consulting his mate, and gaining the consent of his crew, whom he animated by an appropriate address, hoisted the British colours, and with his two swivel guns returned the fire of the enemy’s chace guns. The Frenchmen, in abusive terras, commanded him to strike, to which he returned an answer of defiance. Upon this, the privateer advanced, and poured in such showers of bullets into the Isabella, that Capt. Hornby found it prudent to older his brave fellows into close quarters. While he lay thus sheltered, the enemy twice attempted to board him on the larboard quarter; but, by a dex- terous turn of the helm, he frustrated both attempts; though the Frenehmen kept firing upon him, both with guns and small arms, which fire Capt. Hornby returned with his 2 larboard guns. At 2 o’clock, when the action had lasted an hour, the privateer, running furiously in upon the larboard of the Isabella, entangled her bowsprit among the main shrouds, and was lashed fast to her; upon which, Capt. Andre bawled, in a meuaciug tone, “you English dog, strike”: but the undaunted Hornby challenged him to come on board, and strike his colours, if he dared. The enraged Frenchman took him at his word, and threw in 20 men upon him, who began to hack and hew into his close quarters; but a discharge of blunderbusses made the invaders retreat, as fast as their wounds would permit them. The privateer being then disengaged from the Isabella, turned about and made ano- ther attempt on the starboard side; when Capt. Hornby and his valiant mate shot each his man, as they were again lashing the ships toge- ther. The Frenchman once more commanded him to strike, and, the brave Briton returning another refusal, 20 fresh men entered, and made a fierce attack on the close quarters with hatchets and pole-axes, with which they had nearly cut their way through in 3 places, when the constant fire kept up by Capt. Hornby and his brave crew obliged them to retreat, carrying their wounded with them, and hauling their dead after them with boat hooks. The Isabella continuing lashed to the enemy, the latter, with small arms, fired repeated and terrible volleys into the close quarters, partly from his forecastle, and partly from his main deck, bringing forward fresh men to supply the place of the dead and wounded; but the fire was returned with such spirit and effect, that the Frenchmen repeatedly gave way. At length Capt. Hornby, seeing them crowding behind their main-mast lor shelter, aimed a blunderbuss at them, which being by mistake doubly loaded, containing twice 12 balls, burst in the firing, and threw him down, to the great consternation of his little crew, who supposed him dead ; yet he soon started up again, though greatly bruised, while the enemy, among whom the blunderbuss had made dreadful havock, disengaged themselves from the Isabella, to which they had been lashed an hour and a quarter, and sheered off - with precipitation, leaving their grap- plings, pole-axes, pistols, and cutlasses behind them. The gallant Hornby fired his two starboard guns into the enemy’s stern ; and the indignant Frenchman soon returning, the conflict was renewed, and was carried on, yard-arm and yard-arm, with great furv, for two hours § S 2 868 STATISTICAL SURVEY. together. The Isabella was shot through her hull several times, her sails and rigging were torn to pieces, her ensign was dismounted, and every mast and yard wounded; yet she bravely maintained the com- bat; and at last, by a fortunate shot which struck the Brancas between wind and water, obliged her to sheer off and careen. While the enemy were retiring, Hornby and his brave little crew sallied out from their fastness, aud erecting their fallen ensign, gave three cheers. By this time both vessels had driven so near the shore, that immense crowds, on foot and in coaches, had assembled to be spectators of the acliou. The Frenchman, having stopped his leak, returned to the combat, and poured a dreadful volley into the stern of the Isabella, when Capt. Hornby was wounded in the temples by a musquet shot, and bled pro- fusely. This somewhat disconcerted his companions in valour, but he called to them briskly to take courage, and stand to their arms, for his wound w T as not dangerous; upon which their spirits revived, and again taking post in their close quarters, sustained the shock of ano- ther assault; and, after receiving three tremendous broadsides, re- pulsed the foe by another well-aimed shot, which sent the Brancas again to careen. The huzzas of the Isabella’s crew were renewed, and they again set up their shattered ensign, which was shot through and through into honourable rags. Andre, who was not deficient in bravery, soon renewed the fight, and having disabled the Isabella by five terrible broadsides, once more summoned Hornby, with dreadful menaces, to strike his colours. Capt. Hornby animated his gallant comrades: “Behold,” said he, pointing to the shore, “the witnesses of your valour this day !” then, finding them determined to stand by him to the last, he hurled his final defiance upon the enemy. The latter immediately ran upon his starboard, and lashed close alongside, but his crew murmured, and refused to renew the dangerous task of boarding; and, cutting off the lashings, again retreated. Capt. Hornby resolved to salute the privateer with one parting gun; and this last shot, fired into the stern of the Brancas, reached the magazine, which blew up with a tremendous explosion, and the vessel instantly foun- dered. Out of 75 men, 36 were killed or wounded in the action, and all the rest, together with the wounded, perished in the deep; except 3, who were picked up by the Dutch fishing boats. The horrible catastrophe excited the compassion of Capt. Hornby aud his brave men, who could render no assistance to their unfortunate enemies, the Isabella having become unmanageable, and her boat being shattered to pieces. The engagement lasted 7 hours. — For this singular instance of successful bravery, Mr. Hornby received from the king a large gold medal, commemorating his heroism. He survived the action 7 years; and, dying at sea of a lingering illness, was buried at Liver- pool ; being then 52 years of age. — Mr. Hornby married Ann, daughter of Mrs. Elizabeth Walker, who was grand-daughter and heiress to Elizabeth, eldest sister and co heir of Ralph Lord Eure; so that, in right of his wife, he possessed a share of the Easby estates.* He had * The genealogy of the heirs of the last Lord Eure, given in Graves’s Hist. p. 236, is incorrect, and defective ; especially as to the Hornby family. BIOGRAPHY. 8G9 sue son, William, a captain in the army, who fell in the service of his country at Guadaloupe; and five daughters; of whom Elizabeth died youne , and Ann was never married ; the other three were Mrs. Frauces Parker, Mrs. Susanna Hutchinson, and Mrs. Jane Widowfield. Several of his grandchildren are living; of whom is Mrs. Nathaniel Langhorne, jd( Whitby, a daughter of Mrs. Widowfield. >IR. LIONEL CHARLTON. Mi. Charlton, author of the History of Whitby, well deserves a place among the eminent characters that have adorned this district. He was born at or near Hexham, about the year 1722, and, like most natives of Northumberland, had the strong guttural accent. He was lame from his youth, halting with one leg, and having one hand shrunk up; a circumstance which probably induced his parents to procure him a classical education. After being some years at a free grammar school, he attended the university of Edinburgh for one or two seasons. Probably his views were at first directed to the ministry ; but, his st,. iies being interrupted, he betook himself to teaching: and, about the year 1748. he settled in Whitby as a teacher and land-surveyor. In addition to a thorough knowledge of mathematics, and of the Latin language, he had some acquaintance with the French; and his school, which, by favour of Mr. Cholmley, he kept in the toll-booth or town- house, was for many years the principal school in Whitby, and pro- duced a number of excellent scholars. It was towards the close of his life, when he had long been acquainted with the affairs of Whitbv and the vicinity, that he undertook the arduous task of writing a history of the town and abbey. Several years were spent in collecting materials for the work; and, in making this collection, he possessed great advantages, having free access, not only to Mr. Cholmley’s valuable library, but to the records of the abbey, and other important documents in that gentleman’s possession, then kept at Whitby. The intense application, and unwearied perseverance, with which Mr. Charlton improved those advantages, are very conspicuous in his work. I can easily conceive, from my own experience, what patient investigation, what painful assiduity, what toilsome drudgery must have been requisite, for poring over every page of the Register, get-* ting acquainted with the different handwritings, and making out all the contractions and barbarous phrases with which it abounds; and for examining and translating so many other documents; besides the toil of reading and collating numbers of books, and gathering infor- mation from all quarters. In these labours he received little assistance; except that Dr Percy, with whom he had a good deal of correspond- ence, furnished him with some information relating to the Percy family, and a few other subjects. Dr. Percy materially forwarded the sub- scriptions for the work; the proof sheets were sent him during its progress, but Mr. Charlton himself corrected them. His history, like 4hc present work, was long in making its appearance after being an- nounced: some hundreds of subscribers were obtained before September, S70 STATISTICAL SURVEY. 1776; in August, 1777, the work was advertised as “speedily to be published ;” yet it did not see tiie light till 1779. It does much cre- dit to the learning and industry of the author; but exhibits a greater display of laborious research than of solid judgment. There are two grand blemishes very discernible: the one is want of arrangement; every tiling- is delivered in the order of time only, and hence we have no distinct and connected view of any particular subject, each being given by piece-meal, mixed up with other subjects: the other consists in embodying into the work an immense number of charters, comprising nearly the whole of the Whitby Register, which, instead of being wrought into a history, ought to have been thrown into an Appendix, as valuable materials for history; the substance of them being ex- tracted to form the body of the work. Hence, to the generality- of readers, a great part of the book is heavy and uninteresting. In se- veral instances too, some of which have been noticed and corrected, the author has suffered himself to be misled by his fancy. Yet, with all its defects, the work is highly valuable; especially as we may de- pend on the author’s candour and fidelity, where we cannot rely on his judgment and his accuracy. — In bis general character, Mr. Charl- ton was a man of the strictest integrity, remote from every tiling mean ; in so much that, though his fees as a teacher and surveyor were very moderate, he would not accept of any gratuity which his employers occasionally offered in addition to the stated fees. His manners were simple and rather antiquated; as a teacher, he was reckoned strict, and by- some severe. In conversation, he was too dogmatical, adhering most pertinaciously to his own notions, and rarely giving up any- point which he had advanced. This inflexible spirit was, in one instance, attended with much trouble and danger to himself : about the year 1762, he inserted a paper in one of the periodical publications of that time, maintaining the injustice of exacting tithes from the fishermen on this coast, and Dr. Hay ter, bishop of Norwich, then lessee of the tithes of Whitby, considering this paper as reflecting on his character, threatened Mr. Charlton with a prosecution, unless he would retract some obnoxious expressions; but neither the menaces of the bishop, the danger to which he was exposing himself and his family, nor the solicitations of his friends could induce him to retract one iota; and his unbending resolution occasioned him much trouble and expense, and might probably have ruined him, had not the death of the bishop put a stop to the prosecution. — Mr. Charlton died. May 1 6, I78S. He left a widow, two sons, and a daughter; all of whom are dead; nor has he any posterity remaining, but a grandson, now living in Scarborough. FRANCIS GIBSON, ESQ. The late Fras. Gibson, Esq. F. A. S. collector of the customs for this port, was one of Mr. Charlton’s pupils. He was baptized at Whitby, Jan. 16, 1752: his father’s name was Joseph Gibson, and his mother was Marv, daughter of Mr. Daniel, formerly comptroller of the customs at Whitby. After finishing his education imder Mr. BIOGRAPHY. 871 Charlton, lie went to sea at an early age ; and, so well had he profited by the instructions of his master, that during his first voyage he made a chart of the coast and harbour at Goldsbrough in New England, for which he was liberally rewarded by J. Nonnan, Esq. London, the merchant who freighted the vessel. In 1778, he became master of the Lord Howe, belonging partly to his father; and continued in the employment of master-mariner for some years; yet the many intervals which he spent on shore seem to indicate, that he had no great pre- dilection for the sea-faring life. His habits and inclinations attached him more to the military service ; and he took a most active part among the Whitby volunteers, both in the American war, and in the late French war. He studied the principles of military science, par- ticularly fortification; and constructed a model of a pentagon fort, that was much admired. In 1787, he was appointed, through the interest of Lord Mulgrave, to the office of collector of the customs at Whitby, which he held during the remainder of his life. At an early age he discovered a turn for poetry, and his friends were often gratified with the effusions of his muse: but the chief production of his genius is a play, entitled “ Streanshall Abbey, or the Danish Invasion ;” which was acted at Whitby, Dec. 2, 1799; and has often been acted since. It met with great applause, to which the patriotic sentiments which it breathes, and which were then highly seasonable, contributed not a little. Yet, independent of those temporary advantages, which in- creased its popularity, the poem is possessed of great merit, and does much honour to the author, and to Whitby. It is not without faults, but they are more than counterbalanced by its beauties: it is one of those few plays which abound with sentiments favourable to virtue and religion ; and which, for that very reason, are more likely to entertain in the parlour, than to prolong their popularity on the stage. A small volume of his detached pieces was collected and published by subscrip- tion, after his death. Several of them are beautiful, yet they fall far short of Streanshall Abbey. Indeed, it is scarcely doing justice to an author, to publish all his juvenile pieces, and unfinished sketches, which he would never have published himself, without very material alterations. His principal prose works are. Memoirs of the Bastile, published in 1802 ; and Directions for the Baltic and the seas leading thereto, published in 1801, at the instance of the Admiralty, for the use of the expedition against Copenhagen. Both works gained him considerable credit. Perceiving the defects of Charlton’s History, he began a kind of Guide to Whitby and the vicinity, so early as the year 1792; proposing to set out from York, and conduct the stranger to Whitby: but his M.S. stops at Pickering, and though he had pre- pared views of the abbey, and other drawings, to illustrate the work, lie left it off, when he had only made a beginning. He was a great adept at drawing plans and forming models: the most beautiful model which he executed was that of York ^linster, which was presented to the queen, through Lord Mulgrave, and is said to be still in her Ma- jesty’s possession. Among his multifarious studies, antiquities held a prominent place; and he was for several years a fellow of the Society sn STATISTICAL SURVEY. of Antiquaries. He died July 24, 1805. Over the circumstances of his death the historian would cast the veil of oblivion. Mr. Gibson was twice married: first, in 1775, to Miss Alice Fishburn (sister to Thos. Fishburn, Esq.), by whom he had one daughter now living : and secondly, in 1785, to Miss Anne Evans, who survives him. MR. WILLIAM WATKINS. Mr. Wm. AVatkins, born in 1755, was the son of Mr. Richard Watkins of Whitby, sprung from a respectable family in the south of Ireland. One of his ancestors, Mr. Abr. Watkins, was one of the sheriffs of Cork in 1702. He was an intimate friend of Mr. Gibson, being another of Mr. Charlton’s pupils, though he received a part of his education from Mr. Routh. 1 ike Mr. Gibson, he spent the early part of his life at sea, and the latter part on land; and, like him, lie did honour to Whitby by bis writings, both in prose and verse His learning was more extensive than that of his friend, and bis writings are more voluminous. Of his earliest poetical pieces, Athelgiva was published in 1778; The Sailor, and The Apology, in 1782; and Coucy and Adelaide, in 1784. In 1784, Mr. Watkins published a series of essays, after the manner of the Spectator, entitled The Whitby Spy. These essays are 30 in number, commencing with Wednesday, Sept, 1st, and ending with Saturday, Dec. 1 1th; being published every Wed- nesday and Saturday. In 1797 and 1798, he published another series called " Anoiu ALIA 3; being desultory essays on miscellaneous sub- jects.” They consist of 34 papers, chiefly poetical, of which one appeared every luesday; beginning with tuesday, Oct. 24, 1797, and ending with tuesday, June 12, 1798. Next year, our author pro- duced a small volume of sonnets; and in 1802, he published The Fall ofCarthage, a Tragedy , which lias been acted several limes at Whitby. His works discover great fertility of genius, and considerable extent of learning; yet not without many blemishes. The success of Mr. Gibson’s play led to the publication of his tragedy, which was written some years before: hut it did not acquire the same popularity, though perhaps in point of composition it may be deemed superior. The subject is much less favourable: pagan heroes will ever fall short of Christian heroes, if both are faithfully delineated. At the close of Streanshall Abhey, the mind is delighted w ith the triumph of Christian heroism, and Chris- tian generosity : but the Fall of Carthage terminates in a horrid dis- play of frantic fury and shocking barbarity. — In 1794, Mr. Watkins having retired from the sea commenced teacher; an office for which he was well qualified in point oflearning, being acquainted with Greek and Latin, French and Portuguese, as well as with Mathematics: but he was deficient in those habits of regularity" and application, which are necessary to ensure success in conducting a seminary. After an ill- ness of some years he died Jan. 4, 1811; and, which is a singular circum- stance, his father died the day following. Mr. Watkins was a bachelor.* * Several other eminent characters might have been added to this list, had our limits permitted; as, the late Jonas Brown, Esq. of Newton House, distinguished for commercial enterprise and agricultural skill : and the late Richd. Gibson, whitesmith, who received a reward from the soeiety of Arts and Sciences for the invention of the harpoon gun, in 1772. STATISTICAL SURVEY. 873 CILVP. VI. PLACES OF worship; benevolent institutions; popular customs; state of morals and religion. THE four topics comprised in this chapter might each have occupied a separate chapter; but we are under the necessity of placing them together, and presenting them in a very condensed form. I. PLACES OF WORSHIP. 1. PAROCHIAL. CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. Many 'of the churches and chapels of the district have already been noticed ; in this place is given a list of the whole, and of their respective patrons and incumbents, the number of people which each may accommodate, and the population of each parish and chapelry. The population list is probably very erroneous in some instances, as it is extremely difficult to procure a correct list. The statement of the number accommodated in the several places of worship is not meant to be exact, but merely to give a tolerable idea of their relative size. The value of each living, as entered in the king’s books, was proposed to be annexed; but, as it gives no idea of the real value, it was judged proper to omit it.* Churches A Chap. Patrons Incumbents Stip. Curates Ho. ac. Scarborough V. Lord Hoiham John Kirk 1500 Hackness P.C. Sir Jn. Johnstone John Watts Thos. Irvin 300 Harwood Dale Cli. Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Scalby V. Dean & Ch. of Norwich T. Preston W. S. Grundon 300 Cloughton Ch. P. C. Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Seamer V. W. J. Denison, Esq. J. Boutflower J. Richards 500 Cayton Ch. Ditto Ditto Ditto 300 Ayton Ch. Ditto Ditto Ditto Hutton Bushell V. Earl Fitzwilliam Godfrey Wolley Wykeham D.P. Hon. Mrs. Langley John Cayley Brompton P.C. Sir Geo. Cayley Ditto Snainton Ch. Ditto Ditto Yedingham V. Earl Fitzwilliam M. Mapletoft, M.A. Ebberston V. Dean of York Allerston Ch. P.C. - Ellerburn V. Dean of York Wilton Ch. Ditto Thos. Simpson Ditto Michael Mackereth Ditto 250 400 250 450 150 200 200 200 200 200 Popula: 7430 330 185 @55 562 515 354 450 572 384 370 450 115 365 319 310 328 * The contractions used to denote the descriptions of the several livings are, R. — rectory; V.-— vicarage ; P.C. — perpetual curacy; Ch chapel; D.P. — donative peculiar. The chapels are placed immediately after the parochial churches on which they are dependent. Some of the stipendiary carates are omitted. 5T 874 STATISTICAL SURVEY Churches fy Chap. Patrons Incumbents Stip. Curates No, ac. Thornton R. It. J. Hill, Esq. J. R. Hiil Webb 400 Pickering V. Dean of York Ponsonby 700 Newton Ch. Ditto Ditto 200 Godeland Ch P. C. Ditto Benj. Richardson 200 Leavisham R. Rev. Rob. Skelton Rt. Skelton Rt. Skelton, Jun. 250 Middleton V. Heirs of Rev. J. Robinson Mich. Mackereth 3.10 Lockton Ch. Ditto Ditto 200 Cropton Ch. Ditto Ditto 200 Rosedale Ch. P. C. Disputed Rob. Skelton, Jun. 200 Lestingham V. The King Wm. Nich. Darnell 350 Farndale Ch. Ditto Ditto 200 KirkbyMispertoni?. C.S.Duncombe,Esq. J. DceryThomas,D.D.200 Normanby R. R. J. Hill, Esq. Arthur Cayley, A. M. 200 Sinnington P C. Master of HemsworthSchool Chr Dowker,A.M.200 Edston V. G. W. Dowker, Esq. Christ. Roberts 150 Kirkby Moorside V. The King Joseph Smyth, A. B. 700 Bransdale Ch. Ditto Ditto 200 Gillamoor Ch. Ditto Ditto 250 Kirkdale P.C. Univ. of Oxford Geo. Dixon (Vic. of Helinsley) 200 Bilsdale P.C. Vicar of Helmsley John Dixon 350 Ingleby P.C. Sir Wm. Foulis, Bart. Ditto 250 Kirkby R. Abp of York H. D. Willis 300 Kildale R. Bady Turner Jos. Smith John Thompson 200 Stokesley R Abp. of York Geo. Markham, D. D. T. Simpson 700 Westerdale Ch. Ditto Ditto Dan. Duck 200 Ayton P.C. Wm. Marwood, Esq. Wm Deason 300 Newton Ch. P.C. Disputed J. Thompson 200 Nunthorp Ch. P.C. Mr. Thos. Simpson Ditto 150 Marton V. Abp. of York Dan. Duck Daniel Duck, Jun. 250 Ormsby V. Ditto John Thompson Eston Ch. P.C. Ditto Ditto Kirkleatham V. Lady Turner Jas. Shaw Wilton Ch. P.C. J. Lowther, Esq. John Saul Guisborougli P.C. Abp. of York Thos. P. Williamson Upleatham Ch. P.C. Lord Dundas Jos. Wilkinson Marsk V. Ditto Jos. Harrison Redcar Ch.f Ditto Ditto Skelton P.C. Abp. of York Wm. Close Brotton Ch. Ditto Ditto Lofthouse R. The King Wm. Murray, M A. Easington R. Ditto M. Mapletoft, M. A. Liverton Ch. Ditto Ditto Hinderwell R. Rev. Wm. Smith TT'm. Smith Rousbv Ch. ditto ditto ditto 200 Lvth V. Abp. of York Thos. Porter Win. Long 350 Egton P.C. Ditto Benj. Richardson 350 Danby P.C. Lord Vise. Donne Dan. Duck 350 Glazedale Ch. P.C. Abp. of York Benj. Richardson 250 Sneaton R. The King Jn. Hammond Tim. Castley 300 Aislaby Ch. P.C.§ Mark Noble, Esq. Jos Robertson ditto 200 Sleights Ch. P.C. § Heirs of J. NeSs, Esq. ditto J.VanHemert 250 Lgglebnrhby Ch. P C.§ Abp. of York ditto ditto 200 Fylingdales P.C. Ditto Jas. Harrison 350 Wm. Turner R. Chapman Ditto 250 200 350 200 600 200 200 150 300 250 400 250 200 E. L. Benwell 500 Papula. 731 1994 151 260 123 564 245 269 287 997 480 129 182 274 137 1702 160 625 730 391 * 376 625 201 1628 257 934 149 132 342 384 387 680 328 2003 237 503 431 700 989 1193 500 230 1224 190 2093 971 1145 763 173 208 344 476 1568 Many interesting- remarks might be added respecting several of these parishes; but I shall only notice a curious circumstance. relating * Besides Bilsdale Midcablc — 384. + This place of ivorship can scarcely as yet be called a chapel. § These three chapels belong lo It hitby parish. PLACES OF WORSHIP. 875 to the parish of Lyth. In the parish register of Lyth is a copy of the Solemn League and Covenant, sworn here, Jan. 20, 1645; and sub- scribed by Christ. Wright, then vicar of Lyth, and by the inhabitants of the parish to the number of 224. 2. friends’ meeting houses. No. accom. Places. No. accom . Places Scarborough Pickering H utton-in-the-Hole 3. 500 400 100 ROMAN CATHOLIC Castleton 250 Ayton in Cleveland 200 Guisborough 200* chapels. Places Ministers No. accommodated Scarborough Vacant 300 Egton Bridge John Woodcock 300 Ugthorpe V acant 200 4. INDEPENDENT CHAPELS. Scarborough! Samuel Bottomley 60# Pickering! Gabriel Croft 300 Kirkby Moorside William Eastmead 400 Stokesley William Hinmers 300 Ayton! Ditto 150 Guisborough Ditto 250 Meikleby Benjamin Sugden 200 5. BAPTIST CHAPEL. Scarborough William Hague Sykes 450 6. METHODIST CHAPELS. Scarborough Scarborough Circuit Step. Wilson & Jn. Pearson 1200 Seamer Ditto Ditto Ditto 300 Peak Ditto Ditto Ditto 120 Brompton Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Pickering Pickering Circuit Hen. Anderson & Cha. Ratcliffe 500 Thornton Ditto Ditto Ditto 500 Snainton Ditto Ditto Ditto 250 Rillington Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Ebberston Ditto Ditto Ditto 150 Sinnington Ditto Ditto Ditto 300 Hutton-in-the-hole Ditto Ditto Ditto 150 Lestingham Ditto Ditto Ditto 100 Kirkby Moorside Malton Circuit Jon. Parkin & Robt. Melson 300 Guisboroug Stokesley Ayton Skelton Redcar Eston Loftus * The society of Friends had formerly Meeting Houses in Stainton Dale, Hinderwell, Moorsom, and Rousby, where their cemeteries yet remain. t These were formerly Presbyterian chapels. 5 T 2 Guisborough Circuit W. Ainsworth & Jon. Porter 600 Ditto Ditto Ditto 600 Ditto Ditto Ditto 150 Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Ditto Ditto Ditto 100 Whitby Circuit Geo. Smith & Wm, Stones 300 876 STATISTICAL SURVEY. Places Lyth Whitby Circuit Ministers No. Geo. Smith &. Wm. Stones accom, 100 Robin Hood ; 's Bay Ditto Ditto Ditto 500 fry op Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 Dale End Ditto Ditto Ditto 300 Castleton Ditto Ditto Ditto 200 In supplying these places of worship, the regular Methodist preachers are assisted by a number of local preachers. II. BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. These might be distinguished into charitable and pious, as was done in the history of the town; but as several of tliero partake of the nature of both, the distinction is here omitted. I. HOSPITALS Places Founders Dates Patrons or Trustees Objects Scarborough, Hugh Bulruer, &c. Bef. Ed. I. Bailiff's & Burgs. Aged & iufirm Ditto Ship-owners 1752 Trinity House Seams.wids. Sec Thornton, Eli*. Vise. Lumley 1657 SirlVSlriekland, &.c. 12 poor people Guisborough Robt Pursglove 1561 LeeofPinehinthorpe,&c. l2oldmen&wom Kirkleaiham, Sir 11'. Turner 1676 LadyTurner Old men and women, boys and girls, ten of each. In the hospital at Thornton, 6 of the poor people (men or women) must be of Sinnington, 4 of Thornton, and 2 of Marton, Edstone, or Farmanby. They are generally widows: and each has a neat house of 2 apartments, with J. 10 or upwards yearly. In Guisborough hos- pital there are 6 rooms, each containing 2 persons; who receive 5 sh. perweek, with someyearly allowances. Kirkleathara hospital is a splen- did building, in the form of a square with one side open, ornameuted with statues, &c. Besides the lodging rooms appropriated to the 40 poor people there are several neat and commodious apartments for the chaplain, master, mistress, surgeon, &c. with an elegant chapel, having a beautiful window of painted glass, in which are figures of the founder, &c. The old people are admitted at the age of 63: the children are admitted at 8 and discharged at 15. The latter are fed, clothed and taught; and have y, fBarne pr.n. and bi) ; and the abbot of York (Stephen Whitby) held of the king 2 car. in Apeltun, Appleton-le moor, and 2 car. in Lestingham, not mentioned in the returns. A feiv variations in the numbers and names are observed : thus, for We stiule, Westwood, in the return of the king’s lands, the summary gives Westlid, Wist- leatham, now Kirkleaiham : and the name Sevenicton is spelled Siueninton, which comes nearer the modern name Sinning ton* Some of the modern names are given as conjectural ; yet by far the greater part are certain : and I am happy in being able , in so many instances, to correct the mistakes, and supply the d< feds, in Bawdwen’s work. Perhaps some of the names marked as obso- lete, may yet exist as names of farm-houses or of fields. The etymological notes which I have added, or rather inserted, may serve to amuse the curious: though several of my conjectures may be erroneous. It is chiefly in the Scandinavian languages that I have sought the etymologies of the names; for as the district was colonized by the Danes or Northmen, near the close of the 9th century, it is natural to suppose, that most of the original names would perish with the Saxon inhabitants, and new names come in their place. A great number of these new names are derived from the names of the new proprietors : and it is observable , that many of the Scan- dinavian names ivhich abound in Domesday, both simple and com- pounded, are found at this day in the composition of men’s names in the Northern countries, particularly in Iceland: where Thor, Grim, Arne, Lach, Stein, Barne, and other Domesday names, occur in Thorgrimsson, Arnason, Thorlakson, Steingmnur, Tborsteinson, Biarnason, . RISE OF THE PAPAL POWER. §03 till at last a final rupture took place, the one remaining spiritual sove- reign of tire east, the other holding the dominion of the west. While these usurpations were gradually going forward, and even when they were commencing, in the 3rd century, and at the close of the 2nd, care was taken to make the new order of things appear scrip- tural, and to invest it with apostolical authority. The apostles and evangelists were converted into bishops. Peter, who it seems was a notorious pluralist, obtained the bishoprics of Antioch, Corinth, Rome, &c. ; an equal number of sees were given to Paul; James was seated on the episcopal throne at Jerusalem; Titus was dubbed bishop, nay archbishop, of Crete; and Timothy was installed into the see of Ephe- sus. The two last were confirmed in their office by some impudent transcriber of the sacred books, who entered their titles in postscripts added to the hpistles addressed to them.* It is needless to dwell on the absurdity of degrading the apostles to the rank of ordinary bishops: their office was of a superior nature, and they laboured in any part of the church to which they were called by the Spirit, or by divine pro- vidence; though some, as James, Peter and John, were principally employed among the Jews, while Paul and others laboured most among the Gentiles. A similar remark will apply to the evangelists: Timo- thy might be termed bishop of Corinth, of Rome, &e. as much as of Ephesus; and Titus might be called bishop of Dalmatia, rather than of Crete, Dalmatia being the last station to which Paul sent him.f To support the credit of particular churches, fables were plenti- fully invented, respecting the lives and sufferings of their founders. The stories relating to James’s life and martyrdom, which are of a piece with the account of his ordination, present a choice sample of such productions. He never tasted wine, nor strong drink, nor animal food: (query. Did he never keep the passover, nor observe the Lord’s supper?) his piety was so well known at the temple, that he alone was allowed to go into the holy place; and he prayed so often there, that his knees became hardened, like those of a camel: yet, strange to tell! he performed his episcopal functions so secretly, that the unbelieving Jews, who received him as an oracle, had no idea that he was a bishop, or even a Christian; and when they found that great numbers of the people were joining the Christians, their scribes and pharisees begged the good man to go up to a pinnacle of the temple, at the feast of the passover, and undeceive the people respecting Jesus : and when, in- stead of proclaiming Jesus to be an impostor, as they expected, he declared him to be the Christ, they were so surprised and vexed at this disappointment, that they threw him down and despatched him ! ! || A tale so absurd refutes itself: yet I may add, that we know, on the authority of Paul, that the two brethren of the Lord, James and Jude, * Cujacius has shewn, that the postscript to the 1st Epistle to Timothy eould not have been written before the time of Constantine. Usserii Opusc. De Asia Procons. p. 51. The postscript to the 1st Epist. to the Corinthians is evidently false; for it dates the Epistle from Philippi, whereas it appears from Ch. xvi. ver. 8, 9, 19, &c., that it w as written from Ephesus, f 2 Tim. tv. 8. U Euseb. Hist, Eccles. L. II. c. 23. 904 APPENDIX NO II. instead of being fixed to particular spots, travelled about among the churches, like Paul and Peter, and that each of them took Ins wife along with biin.* The accounts of Peter’s exploits and martyrdom at Rome, connected as they are with silly stories about Simon Magus, are not more worthy of credit. They seem to rest on no better autho- rity than what we have for the fabulous correspondence between Christ and king Abgarus. The same remark may apply to tbe early part of those lines of bishops, by which some churches derived their dignity from the apostles. Those lines, particularly the succession of the bishops of Rome, began to be framed so early as the times of lrenaeus and Tertulliau, if some transcriber has not. taught them to Humanize: yet great difficulty occurs in adjusting the first links of the chain, par- ticularly as to the three cotemporary bishops, Linus, Anacletus, and Clemens, said to be ordained by Peter and Paul; scarcely any two of the ancient fathers arranging them in the same order. As a farther proof of the uncertainty that prevails on the subject, it may be remarked, that Irenams in one place calls Hyginius the ninth bishop, and, in another, the eighth . + The same authorities on which (lie series rests, assert that Peter and Paul founded the church of Antioch, and that they also founded the church of Rome; nay, that they were together in tbe work at both places. || The first assertion is false; for the church at Antioch was not founded by any of the apostles, but by Lucius, and other preachers, natives of Cyprus and Cyrene, who went thither from Jerusalem after the martyrdom of Stephen: it was a very flou- rishing church for some years before Paul visited it, and many years before the transient visit which it received from Peter; and the con- duct of the latter, when he was there, tended rather to subvert than to establish it.** The assertions respecting the founding of tbe church of Rome are also notoriously false: it was on a most prosperous foot- ing several years before Paul was brought thither as a prisoner, and even before be wrote his Epistle to the Romans;* and it is clear, that Peter was not at Rome when that epistle was written, that he was not there when Paul arrived nor when he wrote any of the numerous epis- tles which he sent from thence. Indeed, we have reason to believe that Peter never saw Rome. We find him much employed at Jeru- salem and the vicinity, as the apostle of the circumcision; we find him addressing the Jews of the dispersion; and he seems to have also reached Corinth ;|| || but there is not a word in scripture to countenance the idea that be was ever stationed at Rome. It has been alleged, that Babylon, from whence he dates his 1st Epistle, means Rome;** and if any Romanist maintain, that Rome is Mystery Babylom THE GREAT, THE MOTHER OF HARLOTS, I Will not dispute the * 1 Cor. ix 5. -f- Lib. I. c. 28. Lib. III. c. 3, 4. || Ignat. Ep. ad Magnes. Irenasus adv. Hsr. Lib. III. c 1. ** Acts xi. 19 — 26. xm. 1 Gal. ii. 1 1 — 14 Eusebius has the assurance to assert, that it was Ceptias, one of ttie 70 disciples, whoiu Paul reproved at Antioch! Hist. Eccl. Lib. I. c. 12. Irenasus and Tertullian, however, acknowledge that it was Peter the apostle. Iren. Lib. III. c. 12. Tertull. de Prascr. Hasret. c. 23. Adv. Marc. Lib. IV. c. 3. I Rom. I. 7—10. XV. 22—26. |||| 1 Cor. I. 12. III. 22. ** Euseb Hist. Eccl. Lib. II. c. 14. Rev. XVII. 5. RISE OF THE PAPAL POWER. 905 «atter with him: yet, why might not Peter’s Epistle be dated from the province of Babylon? or, if not, was not Jerusalem most likely to be the metaphorical Babylon, being the most bit'.er enemy to God s church, and being then near to destruction^ I may add, that Clemens Roma- nus, where he speaks of the martyrdom of Peter and Paul, tells us that Paul came into the west, and suffered martyrdom under the emperors, but says nothing of the kind concerning Peter. It is needless to advert to the forgeries and apocryphal writings, with which the 3rd, 4th, and 5th centuries teemed, all calculated to exalt the hierarchy; nor will it be necessary to enumerate the titles* and powers, claimed one after another by the bishops of Rome, in their gradual rise to supremacy. It is of more consequence to remark, as a proofof the independence of the ancient British churches, that the gospel was planted in Britain long before the bishops of Rome began to assume a spiritual sovereignty. It may be questioned whether Christianity was introduced into Britain so early as the apostolic age; hut we know from the testimony of Tertullian, that before the close of the 2nd century it had penetrated into those parts of Britain which were inaccessible to the Roman arms.f Now, we have abundant evidence to prove, that the church of Rome had then no authority over the other churches The history of the numerous provincial councils held, about A.D. 200, to determine ihe time for kee| ing easier, clearly shews that each council or synod was independent of another; that of Palestine being named first, as it was the most ancient. When the council of Asia, in which Polycrates a very aged bishop presided, came to a decision contrary to that of the other councils, Victor bishop of Rome, who had presided in pie Roman provincial council, wrote to some of the other churches, proposing to cut off the Asiatic churches from the communion of the faithful; but his uncharitable motion was presently quashed by the other bishops. Irena us the venerable bishop of Lyons, who had pre- sided in the council of Gaul, wrote Victor a sharp letter in the name of the brethren in Gaul, representing the glaring impropriety of at- tempting to break the peace of the church for a matter of such small moment; and stating, that the churches had hitherto been ready to for- bear with one another in things of that description, of which one in- stance appeared in the fast observed before easter, some fasting 1 day only, some 2 days, some more. Irenaeus further reminds Victor, that his predecessors and the bishops of Asia had hitherto exercised mutual forbearance, in regard to their differences. It is very observable, that in this letter, as in his other writings, Irenseus uses the term presbyters as synonymous with bishops, giving the bishops of Rome no higher * The title pope or father (papa) was anciently given to any bishop, especially if he was venerable for years, learning, and piety; thus, Cyprian, bishop of Carthage, A.D. 250, was usually styled pope Cyprian, f Adv. Judajos, c. 7. As a proof of the early introduction of Christianity into Britain and Ireland, it may be noticed, that the British and Irish churches had no archbishops at the time of Augustine’s arrival ; though their abbot „ who were presbyters, had a kind of superintending power. Bed. Hist. Ecct. Lib. II. c. 2, 4. Lib. III. c. 3, 4. The story about the archbishop of St. David’s is a Getion. 5 Z 906 APPENDIX NO III. title than that of presbyters.* So little did the Christian world the* dream of their supremacy. We may also remark, that as the subject debated in the synods of that age was similar to that discussed in the synod of Streoneshalh, so the arguments employed were alike; the western churches, like Wilfrid and the Romish party, defended their practice by the example of Peter and Paul, while the eastern churches, like Colman and the British churches, traced their’s to John and other apostles. This fur- nishes a presumption, that Britain did not receive the gospel from Rome> but rather, directly or indirectly, from the eastern churches. At any rate, the churches of Britain and Gaul owed no more obedience to that of Rome, than those of Rome and Corinth owed to the more ancient churches of Jerusalem and Antioch. The filial respect due to mother churches is very different from that subjection which the Romish church demands; and the British churches might well refuse to submit to this usurped authority, and struggle, as they did for some ages, to preserve their independence. Much more might be added, but perhaps more than enough has been already advanced, on subjects about which good men have differed in various ages. There are few topics that afford more room for that Christian forbearance, which Irenaeus so warmly and so laudably recom mends. APPENDIX NO. III. RECORDS AND PAPERS CONNECTED WITH THE HISTORY OF WHITBY ABBEY. — »-®« — Part I. Memorials copied from the Whitby Register. 1. Restoration of the Abbey , by William de Percy, and his family. jf^Xemorandum quod anno domini millesimo sexagesimoseptimo, Hugo comes Cestrensis, et Willielmus Percy venerunt in Angliam, cum domino Willielmo duce Normannornm conquestore: Et idem Wil- lielmus conquestor dedit preedict o Hugoni villam de Whytteby, cum omnibus suis membris: Et idem Hugo dedit prsedicto Willielmo de Percy omnia prsedicta terras et tenementa, sibi et heredibus suis, ita libere et quiete sicut praediclus Hugo ea habuit ex dono regis. Et preedictus Willielmus de Percy fundavit abbathyam de Whytteby, et dedit praedictam villam, cum suis membris, Deo, S. Petro et sancte Hylde de Whytteby, et Serloni fratri suo, et monachis ibidem Deo servientibus, tempore domini Willielmi regis conquestoris : Scilicet a portu Whyttebyensi totain marinam usqueBlaw r yk, et inde usqueGreue- dyke, et in longitudine Grenedyke, et inde usque Swynstyschage, et inde usque Thornelay, et totam Thornelaye usque Kyrkelake, et usque Coppekeldbrok, et inde in longitudinem per cilium usque ultra Theves- dykes, et usque Stanecrosgate que est prope villam de Suffeld, et * Euseb. Hist. Eccl. Lib. V. c. 23 — 26. PART I. MEMORIALS. S07 ■usque Grethayheuede, et usque Elsykcroft, et mosam usque dimidium mose, et inde usque Darwent, et dimidiuin Darwent in longitudiuem usque ubi erumpit Darwent, et usque Liliowrros et Scolgray hows, et usque Sylhowe, et usque Lythebeck, et sicut Lyttiebek cadit in aquain de Eske, et dimidium Eske in longitudine, et sicut aqua de Brokelbek* in longitudine usque Swarhowecros, et usque in Horsecroft, et usque Tordisa,et usque in mare, et per mariuam ad Whytteby. Quae quidem bunds continentnr in quodam quo-warrauto' iu comitatu Eboracensi coram Willielmo de Sehama. Et praedictus Willielmus de Percy dedit Abbathiae de Whitteby totum solum de Tordsaybek, qui est subtus castrum de Mulgrief cur- rens in mare, usque Tyllaybeke qui est subtus Ravenclyf juxta mane- rium de Semar, quod est manerium domini de Percy, exceptis sex carucatis terrae, videlicet, ij carucatas in Hakenos et iiij in Northfeld juxta Hakenos: Quae sex carucatae terns erant donatae abbathie pra&- dicte per Willielmum conquestorem, prout uotatur in quodain lnspexi- mus domini Edwardi regis Hlii Edwardi regis, de diversis donationibus dicte abbathie factis. + Item sunt in Dunceley iiij carucate terre de feodo de Percy quas dictus abbas tenet. Et idem Willielmus de Percy, fundator dicte abbathie, genuit Alanuin de Percy etRicardumfratrem ejus, et idem Alanus confirmavit cartam patris sui, et obiit sine lierede de corpore suo, et sepultus apud Whytteby; et sic descendit hereditas Ricardo fratri suo et heredi ejusdem Alani : et praedictus Ricardus nil dedit nec confirmavit. Et de praedicto Ricardo processit Willielmus de Percy ? qui quidem Willi- elmus de Percy filius Ricardi fundavit domum de Grenedall (nunc vocatum Handall) in honore beate Marie virginis tempore Henrici regis Angliae, filii Willielmi conquestoris, anno domini m.c. tricesirno tertio [1133], per cartam suam. Et idem Willielmus de Percy dedit illis monialibus duas tpftas in campis de Dunceley super mare; unani scilicet Willielmi filii Ermoth, et alteram Aldewini; et alibi in campis de Staxton, scilicet in Depedale, decern acras terrae de suis dominicis, et pasturam c.p. ovium, sicut in campis de Grenedall, et in campis dp Dunceley, iu perpetuam elemosinam. Et idem Willielmus de Percy, filius Richardi de Percy, dedit monachis de Whitteby iij bovatas terrae iu Dunceley, et quinque toftas, per cartam suam, in haec verba: Omnibus sancte matris ecclesie filiis, tam futuris quam pra-senti- bus, Willielmus Regist. Whitb. fol. 129. The charter breaks off thus abruptly, being given at large in fol. 55. See Charlton, p. 98. This memorial, written in or after the reign of Edward II, is by no means correct. It is certain, that Alan de Percy was succeeded by his own son William, and not by William son of Richard de Percy of Dunslcy : atid that the said * Here a clause has been omitted in transcribing' the reading ought to be, “sicut aqua de Brokelbek [i hocholebeck] cadit in Eske, et de Brokelbek in longitudine usque &c.” 5 2 2 SOS APPENDIX NO. III. Richard did give something to our abbey. See Charlton, p 83,90. J have copied this record, as well as the following, with great care; but. to avoid puzzling the reader, 1 have not attempted to imitate the contractions. It may be remarked, that in the Rcgiste", as, in many old writings, we find e for ae diphthong : this 1 have altered, in several instances, for the sake of perspicuity . 2. R< inf rid the Prior. Memorial of Benefactions. #o! urn sit omnibus Dto et sande Hilde abbalisse servientibus in loco qui olim Streoneshaic voeabatur, deinde Prestebi appellabatur, nunc vero Witebi vocatur, quod Wiliielmus de Perci cognomeuto As- gernuns, tempore Wiliielmi Bastard \vothi above the line] regis An- glorum, ibi fundavit monasteiii.ru in bonore sancti Petri apcstoli, et sancie Hilde abbalisse, atque Reinfrido [vel Remfrido ] rooiiaclio de Evesham, cum sociis suis, quos si hi adquisiverat, ipsum locum com- mendaverit, tt primo duas caruchalas terre in Prestebi illi tradidit: deinde, crescente numero monachorum, cum Serlo de Perci, frater praedicti Wiliielmi de Perci, ibi mouachus fuisset effeetus, villas, terras, ecclesias et decimal eis in perpetuam elemosinair dedit, concedentibus et confirmantibus nobilissima Emma de Port uxore ejus, cum Alano de Perci hlio e rum. Nam praedictus Reinfridus, cum esset miles slrenu >s m s, in obsequio domiui sui Wilieluii Bastard, Regis Anglo- rum, cum per provinciaio Northam mbrorum transiret, divertit ad prae- fatum locum Streoneshaic: cum vero cognovisset quod sanctus ille locus a crudelissimis pi rat rs Ingwar et Ubba. ducibus Alariorum et D : riorum, cum pfad’ala provincia Northanymbrorum, feroci depopula- tione essel devastalus; a quibus etiam Rex sanctus Edmundus decol- latus est, ac deinceps per ducentos et eo amplius annos vacabat religio monachorum et sanctimonialium in eodem loco, compuuctus est corde. Deimie [in provincia Merciorum*] apud Evesham monaebus factus e»t, et monaslicis discipliuis bene instructus, divino instinctu, cum Aldwino Priore de Wrnchecumbe, et Elwiuo monacho, regressus est in provinciam Nprilianymbrorum ad suscitandam inonachicam religio- nem: venitque ad Willielmum de Perci, et ab eo honorifice susceptus est. Dedit autem ilii strenuisaimus praedictus Wiliielmus de Perci an- tiquum monasterium sancti Petri Apostoli, cum duabusj caruchatis terre in Prestebi, in elemosynam pei |)eluam. Eraut enim tunc temporis in eadem villa, lit antiqui patriote nobis retuleruut, monasleria vel oratoria p< ne quadraginta, tantuin pirietes et allaria vacua et discoo- perla remanserant, post destructionem exercitu.s piratarum. Suscepto ergo Reinfridus monasterio, ad inhabitandum vel regendum, cepit re- gularilerconversari cum sociis suis, in humilitate, patientia, paupertate, et caritate, exemplum omnibus tribuens ad bene agendum, et ad Deo serviendum: ita ut infra breve tempus prudentissimos viros ad mona- chicum habitum suscipiendum socios inibi sibi aggregaverit. Transactis igitur plurimis annorum curriculis, cum quoquam causa monasterii sui iter ageret, venit ad Ormesbricge, ubi artifices faciebant pontemtrans Derweutum, et desiliens equo ut illos adjuvaret, incaute lignum super * Interlined. PART I. MEMORIALS. 90S ipsutia cecidit, et. cnnfracto cerebro, nmx extremum exalavit spiritum. Cu.us curpusculum perductum est ad Hachauos, sepaltumque in ciini- teno sancti Petri apostoli m medio parieiis orien tails contra altare. Post obitum vero Deo dilecti Reinfridi prioris, Serlo frater Willielmi de Perci, oificium tjus suscepit, et in eo perm ansi t donee dominus Willielmus, uepos eorum, abbas de Witebi effectus est. Denrque nobilissimus Willielmus de Perci lerosolimam petens, apud locum qni vocatur Mous gaudii, qni est in provincia lerosolimitana, migravil ail tlominum, iliique [a suis*] honorificesepultus est. liaque oinnes terras, possessiones, forestas, ecclesias, decimas, et libertates, quas saspe no- minatus idem Willielmus de Perci, cum Alano de Perci filio suo, monasterio de Witebi dederat, in primis, necnon in ultimis temporibus suis, anteqnam lerosolimam peteret, vel quique lideles monasterio nostro de Witebi dederunt vel concesserunt [in elemosinamf] perpe- tuam, ad inouumentum hie breviter annotabiinus. IfXillain et portum [marisf] de Witebi; Overbi; et Netlirebi, id estSteinsecber; TUingwala; Leirpel; Helredale; Gnip i. e. Hauches- gard; Norruunebi; Fielingam, et aliam Fielingam; Bertwait; Setwaitj Snelune; Hugelbardebv ; Sourebi; Risewarp; Newham; Stachesbi; Baldebi; Brecclia; Flore; Dunesleia; heremitoria de Eschedale, et de Mulegrif; forestas que pertinent ad ecclesiam de Witebi; ecclesiam sancte Marie ejusdem villae cum sex capellis [scil. capellam de Filinge, et de Hakesgarth, de Snetuna, et de Ugilhardebi, et de Dunesle, et de Asulebi*], et appendiciis ejus; Aggemilnne, Kocchemiltie, molen- dinum de Risewarp, Novum molendinuin, Molendiuuui deFielinga: Viliam de Haclianesse, et dua molendina, et ecclesiam sancte Marie ejusdem ville; Ecclesiam sancti Petri, ubi monachi nostri Deo servie- runt, obierunt, et sepulli sunt; Dales, F.verlai, Brocchesei, Northfeld, — sine Danegeld ; et Silfhou, Suthfeld; F.t vacharias de Stoupe, et totam Gaitelei, et de Thornleia, et de Kesebec, et de Bilroche: In Uplium duas paries decime biadi de dominio, et de Wiltune, de Semara, de Nafretune: In Findeseia similiter delmmingheham, [de 1] Sumerledebi, de Staintune, de Caprimonte, de Ludeford, de Elchintune, de Saletorp, de Covenhnm, et Antnebi : diinidium piscarie de Hergum. Ex dono Emme de Port haberaus unam mansuram in Usegate; et duas cam- catas terre, unam in Vsleham, et alteram in Sneileswelle. Ex dono Richardi de Perci, de Dunesleia, fiiii Willielmi de Perci Ohtlesger- nuns, duas partes decime biadi de dominio de Stachestun : Similiter in Boitorp, ex dono Hugonis de Boitorp, et uxoris sue Aalize de Perci, neptis Willielmi de Perci et Serlonis prioris. Ex dono Walteri de Percy de Rugemund, duas carucatas terras in Newetune. Ex dono Alaui de Percy le Mescliin, duas carucatas terrse, unam in Hetune juxta Rochesbnrc, et alteram in Oxenham, Ex dono Willielmi de Perci, fiiii Alani de Perci advocati nostri, ecclesiam de Semara. Ex dono Alani Bucel, fiiii praedicle Aalize neptis [Willielmi de Perci et f ] Serlonis prioris, ecclesiam de Hotuue in Picheringelit....§ * In the margin, f Interlined. § Here is something annexed in the ■Margin which I could not make out: Charlton (p. 71) has rendered it, “as §10 APPENDIX NO. III. Ex dono Ace filii Wimundi de Lochintun, nepotis Willielmi abbaiis, dimidiam carucatam terrae in eadem \ i ila de Holun, et duas bovatas terrae in Middeltune. Ex dono Fi lconii, dapiferi Alain de Perci, duas carucatas terras in Thoulestune. In Scartheburch habemus tres mansuras, unam ex dono Mauricii presbyteii, alteram ex donoRicardi presbyteri de Kaitona, terciamex dono Roberti filii A scbetini capeliani; et duas bovatas terre in Kil- verdebi. Ex dono Uctredi filii Tliorkil de Cliveland, duas carucatas teme in Brinislona, sine Danegeld, et molendinum ejusdem ville. Ex dono Uctredi filii Cospatric, duas carucatas terrae in Kaitun.-e- Ex dono Torfini de Alverstain, filii praedicti Uctredi, duas bovatas terrae in eadem villa. Ex dono Pagani de Wicham, dimidiam carucatam terrae in Wicham, et duas partes decime bladi de domirdo ejusdem ville. Ex eoncessu et pacto Wikemanui prioris, et conventus de Bredlintonia, decimam piscium piscatorum de Fivelei, cum portum Witebiensem in- traverint: Eodem vero modo piscatores de Witebi decimatn dabunt in Fivelei. Ex dono Willielmi Bardolf, et Walteri filii ejus, unam man- suram in Farmanebi. Ex dono primi Durandi de Buttrewic, UDam carucatam terras in Butterwic, et duas bovatas terras in Scamestona, et unum molendinum. Ex dono Roberti de Perci, filii Pichot de Perci, ecclesiam de Sutlun. Ex dono strenuissimi in i litis Alani de Munceus, et Ingeramni filii ejus, ecclesiam de Bernestona. Ex dono Roberti Tbalim, unam mansuram in C'kelc. Ex dono Willielmi comitis Alba- jnarlie, dimidiam rnarcam argenti, qiinra reddit annuatim Willielmus filius tieir, de terra sua de Newetun in Holdernese. Ex dono Hugonis MaIet,etMarg arete matris sue, [tolum* ] dominium suumdeRothewelle. Ex dono Walteri de Canci, et Anfridi filii ejus, ecclesiam de Scerpinbec, et in eadem villa quinquaginla acras terre. Ex adquisitione domini Martini monacbi, dimidiam carucatam lerre et triginta acras terre, in eadem villa. Ex dono Willielmi de la Fubble, duas bovatas terre et triginta acras terre ad Ponttm belli. Ex dono U iilielrni Ilai, et Roberti Chambord, ecclesiam de Slingebi. Ex dono Rogerii abbatis et conventus de Evesham, ecclesiam de Hunteindune juxta Eboracum, unde dabimus annuatim decern solidos ecclesie de Evesham. Ex dono regis Willielmi Ruffi, filii Willielmi Basiard, regis Augloruui, in Ebo- rnco, ecclesiam [omnium*] sanctorum de Fischergate, cum omnibus pertinentiis suis, quam dederat Serloni priori et monasterio de Witebi, in elemosmam perpetuam; ea pactione, ut ibi monacbi praedicle eccle- sie Deo servirent, et pro eo orarent, et pro heredibus suis. Ex dono domini Gernegoti tres mansuras ibidem, scilicet in Fischergate, quas habent Willielmus filius Odo[nis], et Lesing, et Hugo clericus de Brantspade: Et Waiterus le teler, unam mansuram: Arnoidus, unam mansuram : Si ward us, duas mansuras: Hugo filius Audoeni, unam mansuram, que fait Wulfhet fabri: Willielmus Brun, unam mansuram: also the land near Derewent, called Westeroft, with the hermitage adjoining thereto, and common right of pasturage, for a perpetual alms, free and clear from every secular exaction or demand.” But the words “juxta Hachenese”^ V fetch he has not noticed, occur in the marginal note. * Interlined, PART I. MEMORIALS. 911 Henricus frater Willielmi, tie eodem Fischergate, imam mansuram: Heuricus le corverser, unain mansuram; Gocelinus de Araci, imam mansuram: Odo clericus, imam mansuram: Benedictus clericus, unam mansuram: Gamellus Burrigun, unam mansuram. Em dono Audoeni, unam mansuram in Walbegate, quani tenet Hugo fiiius ejus. Ex dono Rogerii de Mubrai, unam mansuram ad pontem Fosse, in escambium propter Hod, quam tenet Ricardos faber. Ex doim [Lewini*] Fartbein ha bemus unam mansuram in Mersc, quam tenet Walterus Farthein. Ex dono Emmas de Port, unam mansu- ram in Usegate, quam habet Thomas fiiius Ulfiliet. Ex dono Johannis Lardinarii regis, unam mansuram, quam tenet Johannes Clericus, fiiius ejus, in eodem vico. Ex dono GoJefridi et Turgisii, habemus duas mansuras in eodem Usegate, quas tehiierant de nobis Orni et Audoe- nus, et nunc tenet Hugo fiiius ejus. Ex dono Ganfridi, filii praedicti Audoeni, (habemus*) terrain quod dam y etedificia (quae*) tenet Hugo frater ejus. Ex dono domini Gernegoti, unam mansuram habemus in Steingate, quam habet Hugo fiiius Willielmi filii Tostini. Ex dono Pagane matris praedicti Willielmi, unam mansuram juxla ecclesiam sancti Wilfridi, in Bleikestrete, quam tenet (Uctredus§) Malherbe. Ex dono A megrim, unam mansuram in Sceldergate, quam habuit Thomas Lolle. Ex veudicione Reginaldi !e Peer habemus totam terrain suam, et totum jus suuni ; scilicet, tres mansuras in Sceldergate, et sex bovatas terrae et quoddam pratum (in*) Torp, que tenet Osbertus Bus- tard: Et unam mansuram super riparn flun. inis Use, nbi ipse Regi- nalds le Poer nianebat, quam tenuit de nobis Willielmus clericus de Stokeslei. Ipse vero Reginaldus lc Poer terrain iiiam cum herede suo abjurarawt,f et quiete acclamav'it,f tradiditque in maim domini sui Rogerii de Mubrai, et ipse illarn dec! it et concessit et confirmavit, Deo et sancto Petro, et sancte Hylde, monachisque liostris de Witebi, in elemosinam perpetnam. Ex dono Torfini de Alvertain, filii Uctredi filii Cospatric, eccle- siam de Crossebi Ravensauart, cum duabus carucatis terre, et aliis pertinentiis suis: Ft centum quadraginta acras terre in eadem villa. Ex dono Adami filii Viel ecclesiam de Kircliebi, et ecclesiam de Englebi, et molendinum ejusdem vil’e. Ex deno Roberti [primi*] et Stepliaui del Mainil, ecclesiam de Hatun de Cliveland, cum om- nibus appendices suis; scilicet, capella de Neutun sub Otneberch, et Torp, et parva Hatun. Ex dono Roberti de Bros, ecclesiam sancte Hylde abbalisse de Midlesburch, et uuarn carncalam terre in eadem villa, et duas carrucatas et duas bovatas terre in Neweham, quas do- naverat Deo et Sancte Hylde, monasterioque de Witebi, in elemosinam perpetuam; ea conventione, ut in Midlesburch monaclii praefate ecclesie Deo sanctaeque Hylde servirent, quot locus honeste retinere posset, et pro eo orarent, et pro heredibus suis, sicut carta illius testatur. Ex dono Johannis Ingeram, ut frater specialiter fieret ejusdem loci, in oratio- nibus et elemosiuis monachorum, duas thofz in eadem villa, et novem acras terre in Brigeflat dedit, et coramunera pasturam in Fittis-mevsc. * Interlined. § Margin. f Sic* 312 APPENDIX NO. III. Similiter ex dono Acelini, iiij acras et dirr.idiam. Ex dono Anfridi, unam acram terre; et ex don > Rogerii fiiii eju<, Ires acras terre. Ex dono Roberti Ramkii, tres acras et mam percatatn terre. Ex dmo llenrici Male!, iiij acras terre, et novein acras in quoddam escambn m. Ex dono W illielmi de Acclum et Cecilie ma‘ris sue, iiij acras tei re. Ex dono Rogerii Kusin, unam acram ierre.* Ex d no R >gerii de Martun, duas acras terre in eadem villa. Ex dono Wiitie'imi h ii Tos- thini, duas acras in Martun. Ex dono VV illielmi de Tliarnetun, d .3 acras terre in Martun. Ex dono Roberti de Baius, unam acram in Orrnesbi. Ex dono Roberti de Cleveland unam acram et unam per- catam terre in Orrnesbi. Ex dono Warnerii de Uppes.de, duas acras terre in Orrnesbi. Ex dono Unfredi de H"tun, et Susanne uxoris sue, unam mausuram in Hot mm. Ex dono Roberti Fossard, unam caru- catam terre in Roucebi. Ex dono Roberti de Argentum, duas bovatas terre in Upplimn. Ex dono Roberti de Liverlun, dimidiam carncalam terre [sine Danegeld*], cum addilamentis (juas Wdl.elmus' dtcamis nobis adquisivit. Ex dono M’alteri de Argentum, et Williilmi de Perci de Dunsleia, et Aalize (mat 1 is sue*), halieiuus duas b. vat as terre in (Sub t*) Lofthus. Ex dono primi Wiliieimi Wirfand dimidiata carucatam terre in Mi drewelle, cum una mansura. Lx dono il i~ elmi de Oclietun, partem cujusdam mausure in eadem villa. — Jam nuineravimus omnes donationes, quas praefati advocati nostri 110 ‘usde- derunt in elemosinam perpetuam. Regist. Whitb. Fol.139, 140, 141. 'J'he above memorial appears to have been written about the year l ISO, in the time of the abbot Richard 11; as it contains no belief actions of a later date, and immediately precedes our 3 ; and 4.th memorials, icliich were undoubtedly ivritteh at that period. The substance of the former part of this manorial and of the pre- ceding, has been given in Book 11. Ch. vn, vm. The list of t cue- factions is very minute, yet it is strange that llndeland hermitage, one of the earliest grants, is omitted. The situation of most of the lands may be collected from various observations in Book //. Ci.ix. 6 {a. Some of the names that are nearly obsolete occurred in Ap- pendix No. I., p. 8S9, &c. In regard to some others, the follow- ing remarks may be necessary. Overbi is probably High <1 hit bu, Thingwala, Highgate-houe ; Helredale, the dale that ends at Spital Bridge; Bert wait Seiwait and Gaiteley are unknown; Aggemiimie is Rigg-mill ; Bdroche is Biller y, mar Flask inn; Liudeseia or Lindesey is a division of Lincolnshire, where Immingham Surner- ledby, , concesserunt abbati et conventui dimidiam mer- cam per annum, pro tota terra a Scalmeryg usque Katewick in longi- tude, et in latitudin ■ a veleri fossato terre arabilis de Sneton qui latus dubicat usque Keihryg in latitudine; simul cum affixione stagni mo- lendini sui aquatici inter Sethoihil et Retlirig: Tandem malitia prae- valente, praedictum molendinum aquaticum exslirpantes et dissipantes gratis, et molendinum aurarium fabrieantes, dictam firmam dirnidie marce penitus substraxerunt per annos octo vel circiter. Tandem humilit.er supplicaverunt, ut dictum molendinum in loco pristino refi- cere possent, et dictam firmam, prout institutum erat, solverent im- perpetuuin: quod eis concessuui est, etareragia condonatuin, itaut ad festum saucti Martini in liyeme, anno dni millo. ccc. sextodecimo, dictam firmam integraliter exiberent. Quartus Articulus. Cum sepe homines dieti Alexandri, facientes le horngarth, plus quam necessa esset nemore abbatis aecipere soliti sunt, et residuum sivesuperfluuni in villa vendere solebant, et inde ad atthaciamenta citari et amerciari : sic quieruiit, ut dicti homines liberationem sibi a miuistris Abbatis gratis accipientes, plus nec minus petentes : Et si defectusin factura dicti horngarth, oceasione minus liberati, inveniretur, non eis impu- taretur; sed talis defectus, si defcctus esset, noster erit et non illorum. Sed ad certum diem in quo dictus horngarth fieret sepe vendicarent, aliter non est eis respousum vero quum legitime fuerint prsemuniti, licet vigilia assensionis dominice in qua fieri deberet postulaveriut, cum aliter factum fuerit, eo quod aliquaudo diessancti Joliannisde Beverlaco dies feriatus dicta vigilia devenerit, in qua factus non fuerit. Quintus Articulus. Cum dictus Alexander quandam libertatem vendendi et emendi in villa de Whitby absque theloneo, jure hereditario vendi- casset, et non solum sibi, sed eeiam hominibus suis; tandem luec con- troversia sic estsopita: quod abbas concessisse ei quod juref fieri faciat unam mensuram sive unuin modium vere quantitatis, et afFerat illud ad ballivum suum, qui dictum modium signet signo abbatis; •A Or “quum valuerit sive quum voluerit,” when he can or when he chooses-. + Uncertain. 919 APPENDIX NO. III. illud probatum et approbatum ; quern raodinm idem Alexander tnrni* commiitat cuslodiendum; ei si biadurn super terram suam ex inanerio de Sneton provenientem veudere contigerit, theloneum seu cousuetudi- nem non dabit: aut si pro sustentatione sui et manerii emerit in porta, similiter. Sed si aliunde empuim ibidem venderit, aut ibidem ernptum aliunde vendiderit, non erit liber a consuetudine predicla. Eodem modo tenentes sui de Sneton, si ibidem emerint causa suslentationis sue, per dictum inodium measure, et theloneum nondabunt; si autem alibi vendiderint, aut vendidisse convicli fuerint, aut alibi quam de satis propriis ad manerium de Sneton perlinentibus aut provenieutibus emerint, et ad Wiiiteby venale perduxerint, in hiis casibus liberi non erunt, sed theloneum sicutalii de provineia persoiverint. Cum autern de ariimalibus hominum de Sneton in dicta villa de Sneton venditis, fieri postulassent, huic dictus abbas non adquievit. Sextus Articulus. Petiit que idem Alex, pro se et hominibus suis, quod filicem in parti- bus de Yburn, et in ejus latere, metere posseni, absque invadialione; quod qnidem nec fnit vetilum nec coucessum eis, sed secundum quod se gererent patiendum [ vel patiendos], ut pote si bene, paterentur, sin alias aliter. Septimus Articulus. Petiit idem Alex, fidelilaiem sive servicium debitum ab abbate pro ouibusdam terris in campo de Sneton: cui turn respondere * nos nullas terras de collatione antecessorum suorurr., nisi puratas el quietus, consecutoa; uon cre- denti scripta nostra protulimus: ipsi autem super aliqua particula he- iitantes, ut mommenta querentes; et inveuta exhibentes, taliter satis- faciendum, quod quia difficile erat lam cito moniinenta singla invenire, usque alias dilatum est. Octavus Articulus. Cum semper forestarii nostri messonariurn dicti Alexandri, sive nemorum suorum custodem, arcum et sagittas deferre prohiberent, ipsasque sepe auferentes, ali- quando atthachiantes, ipsum non debere dici forestarium sed wodvrarde asserentes; tandem sic conquievit. Reg. Wh. Fol 134, 135. See the notes on the translation of this memorial, p. 319, §c. It is perhaps the most barbarous piece of Latin in all the fiegister. 1 . Isidorus super Yetus Testamentum Item Ysidorus Ethimologicon. Item super Summum E nium. Isidore bp. of Seville in the 6th century. Ambrosius de Morte Fratris sui. Item Exameron. Ambrose bp. of Milan, Ath cent. His brother, on whose death he wrote, was called Satyrus. His HeXaemeron is on the six days’ work of creation. Beda super Lucam et super Marcum. Item de Temporibus. Item Ilistoria Gentis Anglo rum. item super Apocalipsim. with Notes. Seep. 403 — 103. Item super Parabolas Saiomonis Item super vii Epistolas eanonicas et Acta 4 post- Our venerable Bede, a presbyter at Jarrnw : Sth emt 1‘ & Ilistoria Gentis Any l has been ojten quoted in Book I and JI. Rabanus super Mathematiea. Item Mathaeus Glosulatus. Item Johannes Glosulatus. Rabanus Maurus, abp. of Mentz: 9th cent. I am not sure whether I have not been misled by Air Charlton in reading Mathematiea inst ead of Ma- chabeor. lib. * Here a word has been defaced. Part II. Lists, Rent-Rolls, &c. Catalogue of the Library, about A.D. 1180: PART II. LISTS, See-. 91 § Passionalis Mensis Novembris. Item Passionalis Mensis Januarii. A kind of martyrologics for these months. Josephus. The Jewish Historian. Ruffinus. Prb. of Aquileia : 4f/i cent. Effrem. Ephraim the Syrian: perhaps his discourses to monks: 4th cent. Gregorius Nazanzeuus. Gregory Xa- zianzen : 4th cent. Pronosticon Juliani Episropi. Per- haps Julian Pomerius : ~th cent. Liber Paradisus. Also by Julian. Item regula Joannis Cassiani. Cassi- an, an illiterate monk of the 5th cent: a semi-pelagian. Item Decern Codationes. Diadema Monachorum. Perhaps Sma ragdt ti s Item Decreta Pontificum. Forged in the 9th cent. Paunormt® Yvon’s. Ivo bp of Char- tres, author of a ehroniion: 11 cent Prosper de aetivaet contcnnplativaVita Prosper of Aquitain; also author of a chronicon : 5th cent. GlosmsuperEpistolas Pauli in ii locis. Glos® Psalteria in ii locis. Glos® super Cantica Canticorum. De situ Dunelmensis Ecclesi®. Liber Mamnouis. Perhaps Almnnon the Greek Historian. Vita Sancti Cuthberti. Miracula Sanct® Mari®. Miracula Sancti Andre® Apostoli. Vita See Margaret®, et Sci Madonii, et Sci Brendani, et See Marie Mag- dalene, in uno Volumine. Vita Sancti Benigni. Passio See Katerinas Virginis. Item Sci Firmini et See Fidis Vitas. Item Liber Theopholi, et aliorum Sanctorum, in uno Volumine. Item Imago Mundi, et Gilda, in uno * Isti sunt Libi Prudentius in ii locis. A Latin poet of Spain : 4th cent. Sedulius in ii locis. An eminent Scot- tish or Irish writer: 5th cent. Yid. Usserii Primord. p. 769, &c. Prosper. See above. Theodolus. Perhaps for Theodorus. Vita Sanct® Mari® Egiptiac®, in Versibus. Liber Aratoris. Arator: 6th cent. Liber Bernard! super Tbeodolum. Volumine. Gildas the mist Ancient British writer : 6th cent. Item de Naturis Ilominum, et Ars Regni, et de Lapidibus, in uno Vo- lumine. Item Liber Helpsci Compotist®. item Liber de Sermonibus, et Senten- ce Abbaiis Clarevallis, in uno Vo- lumine. St. Bernard : 12th cent. Item Liber deEcclesiasticis Institutis, et Micrologus de Missaruin Otuciis. Item Liber Gwidonis Monaclii de Musica, etlgnius de duodteim S'g- nis, in uno Volumine. Guido, a monk of the Win cent., the supposed in- ventor of the Gamut Item Consuetudinarum Liber. Item Liber Odonis, et liber. . . . Odo abbot of Clugni : 10th cent. Tome de Sancta Hilda. Quoted by Leland . See p. 407. Item Exceptiones Beeretorum Gra- tiani. Gratian, a monk: \2thcent. Sacramenta Magislri Hugonis. Hugh of St. Victor: 12th cent. Item Liber de Archa Noe. ItemLiber Magistri Petri Long’. [Lon- gnbardi] super tres Epistolas Pauli. Peter Lombard, Master of the Sen- tences : 12th cent. Origenes super Vetus Testamentum. Origen : 3rd cent. Omili® Cijs- De firma deNortlify ling v li xvij s. De jxrecar. metent. ibm. — xxiiijs. De precar. carnc. ibm. — vs. vj d. De prato vend. in Bothome iijs.iiijd. De manerio de Normanby — xv s. De firma more ibm. xs. De manerio deMidelwode vijs. vjef. sm a xvj li. xij x. j d. ob. Whitbyl. [Whitby Laitlies] De curia ibm. v 5. De Cokmylne — xxs. . man’io de H awkesgarth xvijs. vj ork) vjs.viije/. It.fr’Prioris i pisc.sals.et j codlyng xvjc/ It. Eskdale de Ev’lay p.elemosiua iiijr/. Itm. Priori de Medilsburgh quum Abb. et Prior fuerunt ibm. ij pise sals. ij5. * The horses, it seems, had an additional allowance on the day of St. Louis or Loy, the patron of smiths, f On great festival days, the churches, Sjc, were strewed frith rushes. PART II. LISTS, %c. §2-3 avium adpotum ex pre-dim. io contribution. Student. iij/iijsvtf iijs. iiijc/. Itm.p.div’sismedicinisdno.Slepho. ijs. [lt’p.equosuoex pr.xijd. llm.p. gallinis p. solac ijs. Itm.magistrisnav cepto Abbis 1 1. Coco Cou vent’ p.equo suo ex pr.xijeJ. llm.p. Itm. pincernae et portario dni Rici Pyts iiii pise. ■ iiijy Itm Dobson in allocat. time sue xijc/. Itm. Ric’o Salvan qunn fuit bic pro debilo etnii habuk in bursa sua vj / Itm.uuiscolari veuienti a dno.Hug. vj d. It.uni homini captivo ad redemplu. li j /. Itm. Ric’o G>ffon j pise. sals. — xij'i. It.ludentib in aula Abbis adNat ale xijc/. Itm. Foiestar. de Hakn. eod. die ijs. Itm. ministrallis eod. die xxijc/ I t.leneulideRigcotequum homines deSemar ceperunl pise, p.feno viijc/. Itm.ludentibz in die e’eumsionis in aula iijs. iiijc/. It.ministrall.Comit.deWestm’Iand xxd It.s’vientibzportant.kydsap.Dunsl. \jr/ Itm. s’vientibz in die carniprenii xij d. Itm. uni homini qui ludebat cuniJ itm. dno Abbi. vers. Clifland xiijs. iiijc/. Itm. eid. per Adam Chapman — xls. Itm. eid. per uxorem Robi Bolbek iijs. it. ad contribution, p. le oys* ivijs. iiijc/. It.dnoAbbi p.div’sisnecessariis iij/i.xijs sma — xxxj/i.xvjs. iiijc/. [viij c/. pens. [Pensions.) in p’s Magro. Thoe Grenwode — xxs. Itiu. Cierico Rob. Malton attornato nfb. xiijs. iiijc/. Itm. Cantori nro. xxvjs. viijc/. Itm. Wiilo Dode subballivo xiijs. iiijc/. it. Willo. Bekwith attornato xiijs. iiijc/. sma — xvij li. xiijs. irjc/. stipend, infra [Wages under) in p’s Wiilo. Salvan p. Stipend viijs iiijc/ It. n. Portario xiijs. iiijc/. Itm. Coco Conventus \s. Itm. Coco Abbis [abbot’s cook) xxs. [v. sak, perhaps a sackbut) — vj d. It. paietto aule ad socular. per vices ijs. Itm. ministrall. quod. Henr. Percy xxc/. It. eid. ad caligas stockings xvjc/ [vjc/. Itm. uni citharisle dominica ante j Itm. eid. ad femoralia breeches 6c/. ob. Purificationem xiic/. Itm. servienti nro. p. stipend viijs. iiijc/. Itm. ininistrallo vocat.Waitcn i ijs. iiijc/. Itm. Coco commuhi vjs. viija'. llm. eid. j par. beds pair of beads xxc/ lim. Venalori ( the huntsman jvjs viijc/. Itm. p. inventione unius porpas — viiic/.jltm. molendinario xiijs. iiijc/. Itm. p. ii pellibz filiis Tli. Percy iis jltm. Pultar. [the poulterer) — vs. Itm. Thome Percy pre manibz [before- It. Pistori p. Stipend, et coquina xxiijs. hand)ex prsecepto Abb.elPrior.xxc/. Itm.vicar. de Marton i kymp allec. vs. It. Jo.Egton cc. allec. 200/cer rings xi \d It.Escatori dni Regis et servis suis xxs. sma — xviii li. xixs. viiic/. EXPN. ABBIS. ET MONACHORUM. In primis, Noviciis ad ordiues pro ofBcio nostro et coquina Itm. in expn. eorum ibm. xxixs.vje/.jltm It.brasiatori p.eod. wages to mcat xxiijs It. lotrici Conventus [their washer )%s. Itm. lotrici Aule iijs. \jc/. Itm. Subulco (the swineherd) viijs. Itm. eid. ad socular. [shoes) — vjc/. Itm. Paietto Celerarii ad togain xvjc/. It. eid. p. j. ulna panui lanei — xiiijr/, iiijs.jltm. eid. p. factura toge viijc/. eid. ad socular. xijc/. burs. vers, convocatnm. its. iiijc/ Itm. puero dni Stephani — vjs. viijc/. Abb. Ebd. pent. apd.Hakn.iiijsxjc/ Abb-venant apd.moramC/iwHting' on the moor) die Jovis ante advincla — — Abb. vers. Werk worth xls.[xvjc/ob. Itra.eid.permanus Joh.Bowmarp.di- versis necessariis et utilitatibus iij /z. Itm.in expn.burs.apd.Synodumxiiijs \d It. Joli. Salman p. factura unius loge et unius ledircot Rob. Layson xxc/. It.Joh.Hude p.Stipend.etcoqu’a xsvijc/ Itm. Job. Ra p. eod xs. vijc/. ob. [ob. Itm. barbitonsori (the barber) — xs. Itm. Paietto aule p. j par. cal i gar viijc/. sma — xvij/i. xvjs. vie/, ob. * I Anew net nhat mere the oj s, mentioned more than once in this rtlL % C 926 APPENDIX NO. III. OPERA INFRA ( Works under) lu p’mis p purgation, uni’ gunsy xij d. It. Walt’o Wright de temp’e Abbis ixs. It. eid.p.le Kovvhous del.athgartb ijs. It.eid.p. lavatoriis (wasking-tubs) ijs. It. j). j clave ad earner, dni Edrnundi iij d. Itm. p. j sproyscay duo. Abbi — xije/. Itm. p. j clave ad armopolim suum ijr7. It.p.cera (lock) et clave delekylne iiijd. Itm. p.jhorslokadWodhousgarlh vii jd Itm.p. j cera ad ostium de Brewhous viijd Ilm.p.emendat. uni’eanne p. s’vis. iiijd. It p. j band adfenestra. camereAbbis jd. It.p.j bunchisadfenestra.dormitorii xxd Itm. carpentario per vj dies circa domos porcorum xxj d. Itm. eid. p. factura unius cas ad fenestram refectorii iiijd. Itm. Th. Law (the smith) adpotum quum ligavit rotas liijd. Itm. eidem propter diversa opera ut patet per billam — xviijs. vi’jc/. Itm. in exp. vitrearii (glazier) per xxiij Ebd, pr sept.xiiijr/. (23weeks at\4A.perwk.) xxvijs.xc/.[26s. 10d ] It. plumario (plumber) p.yjEbd. viijs. Itm p. factura ij dosanlibr.cereicrtsrxvd. sma — xj li. iiijs. \xd. EMPTto pannor. ( Buying of cloth) In p’s p. liberitura attornato nro. xijs. Itm. p. toga coco communi — iijs. Itm. p. toga paietto stabli — iijs. xd. sma — xxv li. viijN. FOCALE (Fuel) In p’mis vers Tb. Fox p. xx plaustr. bruar. 20 wag. of brushwood vis.viijr/ Itm Robo. Ward p.lx plaustr. turbar. xs ..Johi.Warde p.xl plaust.de pets yjsviijd Itm. Aliae Nesfeldp.ij celdr carbon. viijs Itm.p.ij celdr. carbonum una navi Novi cast. ( Newcastle, seep. 529Jvjs.viijd. Itm.illis qui foderuntflaghts, adpotum fiaghts — a kind of turves — iiij <7. Itm. de una navi de Lyn p j celdr. carbonum iijs. iiijrf. Itm. de Baxter de Burton iiij celdr. carbonum xiijs. iiijcL It. de Joh.Legat p. ij celdr. carbon, viijs. It. p-vM.kyds (fagots) deNewhamxxs ..de uuavi deScbels p .ij celd. carbon, viijs it dej HoicdeNorthfolk j cliald iij.v • iiijrf Itrn. de Willmo- Rede deSundirland i i ij celdr- xiijs. iiijd. sma — xiiij/i. xs. viiirf. The fuel for this year amounted in all to 140 waggons of brushwood, 120 of turves, 120 of peats, and 43 dial. 1 qu. of coals; besides fagots, fyc. The Scarborough Guide (p 42 ) errone- ously states, that our abbey purchased only \ 2chald. of coals in 1394-95-96!* epn. c’ca cariagium (carriage.) In p’misRobo. Horsman p-st'pend. xvjs Itrn Robo- Bedlyngton p- iij sept- ad plaustrum (3 whs. at the wag.) xvjd. It p. factura xj cellarum saddles iijs.xd Itm- p. xxiiij ulnis de canvas p.eisd- xs- Itm. Whitlethir p- eisd.. — ijs. vjd. Itm. p. irij et d. petr. deDerhar (4| st. of deer hair [to stuff them) iiijs vijd Itm. p. peilibz p. eisd. xxd. Itm.p. vij paneliisligneis p.eisd. iijsvid It.jSuanp. xxiiij dies minantiplaustriiijs Itm. Job. Watson p. xij dies — ijs. Itm. Job. Colier p. xxiij dies — xxiijt/. Itm. p. jliorshide WilloSkynner xvjrf. Itm p. vj pes de Gyrthwebs — ijs. Itm. p. iiij pese de Waimtowebs xxd. Itm. p. ij dosan Warn tow schafts ijs. Itm. p.'ij dosan heltirschafts — • xijrf. Itm. p. viij Swewyls viijtf. Itm. p. iiij tezirs (combs P) — xiiijd. Itm. p. vj paribus de Bukyls — vjd. Itm. p. xij bradheltirs xijc/. Itm. p. xij smalbeltirs xjd. Itrn. p. iij Waynraps (wain-ropes) ijs. * It may be proper to notice here a fact omitted in its place, mentioned by Mac - p her son : “1405. July 16. Tlic hing had ordered some pirates of Whitby to make restitution to two Danish merchants, whose vessels they had taken. But they paid no attention to the mandate ; and an officer was now ordered to bring them before the hing, that they might answer for their disobedience.” Annals of Commerce, /.p.615f PART II. LISTS, 4ff. 927 Itm. p. viij XX (8 score) Cartnayle xs.i expn. apd. haknes. Itm. p. j M Stubs ( smalt nulls ) — ijs. In p’mis p. expn. ibm. fact. perca- 1 tm. p. vij Waynthewts Itm. p. xviij hurturs vijs.xc/. xviij:/ It. p. j Wavntyre iron for wheels xxijs. sma — i xli. xvs- ijc/. ob. [ vj c/. EXPN. C’CA 1 N STAURUM ( the Slock) In p’mis p.locione et tonsione ov.xvjsxc/ It.cust.agnor. ( keeper of the lambs)xis Itm. p. j bareli de Pyk {pitch) — iijs Itm. p. vj bareli ter ( tar ) xxijs. viijc/. It.p . ares {g> ease ) empt.p.gresy ug- viis. Itm. mulieri de Whitbylalh ixs. [vje/. It.muliericust.gregem matrium ilim. vs. Itm. p. keslep empt. p. muliere xviijc/. It. mulieri deWbit by laths ad po turn iiije/ Itm. p. vij petr. casei c’ca lotion, et pellanum visitac. offic. Archiepi et procurac. pretermisso xxs. It. Th. Mason propt’ div’sa op’aibm. iis Itm. eid. p. xlvi diebz. xxiiis. [tm. eid. p. colnmbar. ibm. — xiie/. Itm. p. tectura capelle ibm. — xxs. Itm. p. borying i M. Sclatstane xxe/. Itm. vi C. Sclatstane iiiis. Itm. p. iii bands ad Walkmylne xxe/. It. inexpn fact, per p’posit iii/Z.viieZ. ob. sma — xli. xviiis. id. EXPN. APUD FtEYNG. Inp’misop’ar’delymkylne,ad pot. xiie? Itm. p. i rette p- piscat. ibm — xviicZ. It. p. cibo vi hominibz falcantibzibm. vie/ tonsion. washing shearing iiijs. viijc/ It. xxviii gall lak. expn. f'2S ducks, or 28 gallons of milk P) iiiis. viiic/. It. p.factura viii petr. candelar. iis.viiic/ It. p. i Rost yryne roasting-iron xviiic/. Itm. p. i pety spade ibm. — vie/. It. Riro. Cras p. iiii porcell. ant. nat. iis. Itm. eid. p. viigall. (fowls) ibm. xiiiief. sma — villi- ixs. ixd. EXPN. APUD LATHGARTH. In p’mis preposito p. Stipend. — xxs. Itm. paietto ibm. ad necessaria xxe?. Itm. filio coci communis pre mauibz. per Joh. Felton xixe?. It, eid. premanibz.permanusnras.iisxicZ It. p.ciboJoh Colierperxviiidies xviiic? Itm. Prat et Jacobo Hunter p. cariac. fumi [fimi] (dung) xiiiie/. [viiic/. It.p.triturac. threslig. lxxiiiiqrt.xxiiiis. It. de precar. de Stoupe ibm. Thir- naw, Northfilyng, Hawkesgarth et Stansekir lvs. iiicf. Itm. de caruc. de Hawkesgarth, Stansekir, Northfilyng xiis. Itm. p. ii dosan plewstrakys — iiiis. Itm. p. ix molebrodclowtys — iiis. xd. sma — xxi/i. vs. xi d. ob. expn. c’ca eehows. ( 77ie Fee-house) In p’mis Thome Mason p. iiiiXX.xiii diebz — xxxis. -xv/i xixs. xjc/. emptio bladi. ( Buying of corn) In p’mis Wdlo Gowsill p.xl quart. bras, ord. (40 quarters barley malt)xiij/i Itm Joh. Cnk p. xxx qrt. vj//. Itm p. x qrt. fri ( wheat ) xxxiijs. iiije/. Itm. p. iiij qrt fri. xvjs It. Will.Gowsell p.xxiiij qrt. bras. vj//. sma — lxvj/i. xvijs. vijr/. EMPTIO V1NI {Buying of wine) In p’mis p. iiij Pyps vini xli. vjs. viijc/. sma — xi xli. iijs. xd. SCOTTYNG. (Dues, Or Customs) In p’mis Rob. Brian — xxiiijs. iiije/. Itm. Nicho. Penok vs. viijc/. Itm. Willo Hadem xvs. viijc/. sma — vli. xiiijs. j d. EMPTIO animalium {Buying beasts) In p’mis p. j equo ad cariag. — xvis. Itm. p. mortuar. Joh. Lastyngham xs. Itm. p- i apro de Rad. Cras xiiis. iiiie/. Itm. p- i equo dno Abbi vi//. sma — i xli. vs. iiiie/. FALCATIO ET LEVATIO FENI. In falcat. et levat. feni-iiii/Z. — sma pt. EXPN. APUD SEMAR. In p’mis Joh. Harom et socio sup. or- reum-xs. iiiie/. (xiiii/Z. iiiis. ob. Itm. in expn. p’positi ut pat. pr. billam sma — xxii/i. vs, xicZ. ob. It.iisarrantibz sawyers iii diebz iis.vie/. Itm. ii mulieribz portantibz lapides iis. 928 APPENDIX. NO III. Itrn extraneo eonducto p. v dies xt/. It.ThomeScl: teretfilioejus iiii/z iiisiiiia' sma — xii/* xixs. iid. ORREUM decimale {The lithe barn ) In p’mis p tiiturac. xxx qrt. fri. — xs. It.p. ventilac.iiiXX.xiiiiqrt.grani iisid sma — -xxiiis. ii d. EXPN. APD. LAIRPELL. Iii p’mis de xxx p’car de Sneton ibra. viis. vi d. sma pt. EPN. APD. STAKES8Y. [ixi. viiit?. In p’mis p.trilurac.xxix qrt. fri. etsilig. Itm.p.i scotall ( scot-ale ) ibiu. — iiiri. It.p .coliectioueXe. {tithe) ibm. visviiiri sma — lixs. vie/. EXPN. APUD DUNSLEY. Inp’niisp.indiictionedecimeib. visviiic/ Itm. p. vino in die pasche eastcr iiiit/ Itm. p. halicandil ibm. i d ob. It. officio infirmarie p- clausum ib. xiis. Sri A— xxxvs. viio!. EXPN. APUD ASILBY. Iii p’mis p. celebrac. ibm. — Xxs. Itm. celebranti in die Pascbe — vie/. Itm clerico ibm. eod. die iia. Itm p. vino eod. die vie/. sma — xxiiis vie/. EXPN. APUD ATON ET ING1LBY. Iii p’mis ibm. per prepositum vii/i. vis. ii;rc/. sma. pt. expn. dom us piscar. The fish-house In p’niis Clienti ibm xls. Itm servienti ejusdem — xxvjs. viiie/. Itm. p. ii quart, salis albi xiis. Itm. p. i Wey salis albi xxiiiis. Itm. p. i Wey salis grossi xxxs. Itrn. p. i Wey Salys grossy — xxiiiis. sma — xx/i xvs. \\d. ob. expn- coquine. Exp- of the kitchen. In p’mis in provideucia celler. coqnine cellarer of kitchen Ixxvi/i.ixs.vie/.ob. itm. in pecunia liberata eid-xli/f.xis.iie/ In pise. rec. {fresh fish) lib. eid. xxiiii/f. xviiis. xi d. It. in super expn- coquine xvis- iiie/. ob. sma — Cxliii/z. xvs. xie/. * * * 5. Inventory of the effects of the monastery, talten on the accession of the abbot Thomas Bolton, at Martinmas, 1394. Vacante monasterio de Whitteby per mortem dni Petri de Hertilpole ulti. abbis. mon. predict!, qui obiit seeunda die mensis Augusti, anno Dni millesimo CCC. nono- gesimo quarto, succedente dno Tiio. de Bolton eidui. in Abbem. monasterii predicti, qui institutus et installatus i’uit duodecimo die mensis Septembris anr.o dni suprauicto : qui quidem dns Tliornhs supradiclus, in ejus novitate, et omnes alii fratres ad luue conventum faciend. de illor. communi consensu decreverur.t facere unum inventarium, prout volunt statuta canonica edit?, in hac parte. — In primis: in festo sci. Martini anno supradictc ; in officio Instauri (the stock office) Mon. predicli apud grangias de Stakesby, Lathgartb, Whitby Lath, Filing, Itackns. vaccarias diversas, et in manibz tenant, mon. predicti, ex acccmodat. per rotulos et Tall, inde confect, aperius declarat., sunt animalia diversar. etatum; videlz. boves, boveoli, vacc®, et viluii, ad sumiuam CCCiiijXX.xiiij (394), appreciat. ad CiiijXX.ij/i. iijs. (182<£ 3s.): Item, Mutton, (sheep) ad sum. ij M.DC.vXX.ix; prec. Clxxjii. iiis. iiijffi Item equi et equre, ad sin. lxiij; prec. xxiij/i. iijs. iiijiZ: Item caprse, xiiij ; prec. xiijs. rjd: Item porci et porcaria apud Semar et Hakn. ct alibi, ad sib. 1 ; prec. \li. Item, in Grang. de lro. (wheat) v qrt. , de mixt. (meslin) vij qrt, de liras ordeico (barley -malt) iiijXXxij qrt., de bras. aven. (oat-malt) xlj qrt , de ordto (barley) j qrt., de pisi* ( pease) iij qrt : Item in Grangea de Stakesby sunt de fro. 1 qr., de aven. ibm. xx qr: Itm de feno (hay) ibm. xx plaustrat. (waggon loads): Itm de fro. seminato (sown wheat) ibm. xvij acras: Itm in orreo dec. (the tithe barn) ibm. de fro. et mixt. xx qr: Itm de aven. ibm. xvj qr, de ordeo j qr: Itm apud Lathgartb in orreo cultur. ( the farm barn) sunt de fro. xxqr. et de aven. Ix qr: llm de feno ibm. xvij plaustrat: Itm in orreo dec. de fro. et mixt. xij qr. de aven. ibm. xxx qr: Itm de fro. seminato ibm. xxx acr: Item, In Grangfa de Whitbylaths sunt de fro. xl qr, de aven. iiijXX (SO) qr., de feno ibm. xx plaustrat. et de fro. seminato ibm. xxx acr: Itm in manerio in Medehvode, xv plaustrat. [feni]: Itm in le Cote xx plaustrat. feni; Itm in Bothoru- eote xxiiij plaustrat. feni: Itm in manerio de Filyng, sunt de fro. iij qr. de aven. viij sir. de feno xv plaustrat: Itm in le Heuyngs ibm. xv plaustrat; Itm sunt in maneri* PART II. LISTS, $c.. 929 de Haken. de fro. xxij qr; Itin do ordeo x qr; Itm de aven. xxxiij qr ; de feno ibru. x plaustrat: Itm apud Semar, sunt de fro. xliiij qr. de siligine {fine wheat ) ibm. lx qr. de ordeo ibm. iiij XX qr. de aven. ibm. xij qr. de pisis ibm. x qr. de feuo viij plaustrat: Itm sunt apd, Cayton. de fro. xvj qr. de siligine xl qr. de ordeo ij qr. de aven. xx qr. de pis. iij qr. de feno xv plaustrat. It. in rectoria de Atoa in Cliflande, sunt de fro. et mixt. xxx qr. de aven. lx qr. de ordeo ibm. iij qr. de pisis ibm. ii qr: Itm sunt apud Nunthorpe, de fro. xiiij qr. de aven. xx qr: Itm sunt apud Ingylbv, de fro. lx qr. de aven ibm. xxx qr. Itm de Ecclia. de Crosby xxii li: Itm sunt in le Fyschows octo last allec: Itm sunt de piseibz sals, ccc ; de Codlyngs cxx : Itm iij barell allec. alb. — It. sunt jocalia (jewels) in camera Abbis: In p’mis vj vasa argentea deaurata: In p’mis x disci argent, cum quinque sawsers : Itm vi coclear, deaurat: Itm xxxii coclearea divers, ponder: Itm iij cuppe argent, et deaurat: Itm ij cuppe argent, coopt. Itm iiij pit. coopt, argent: Itm. ij pit argent, sine coopt: Itm j Cooptor argent: Itm j Godlied argent, et enamyld : Itm ij sawsers pro sale, j coopt, et aliud non : Itm j plate argenteum pro spec, (a mirror J: Itm ij ewers de argento, j deaurat. et aliud non: Itm j pet de argento atque deaurat: Itm ij dale de argent: Itm j ciphus cum coopt, de rnurra [ porcelain ] quondam Alexandri de Lyth: Itm ij magni ciplii de inuri a: Itm ij parve sine circulis [feet, or, according to some, handles J: Itm. vj minores cum circulis: Itm j cooptorium de murra: Itm j crux de crystall: Itm iij calic. argent, de quibz duo sunt deaurat. Itm ij lecti-sternia cum competenti ornatu, et alii panni divers, et mensur. Itm iij pelves ct iij lavatoria de auricalco. ltmii par. de cofers et alias res diversae quas non oportet specialiter declarare. Redditus assis. extendit se ad sm. ccxxxij li. vs. vjti. ob. — Itm diversi debitores debent monasterio xxii. xs. Itm in Tesaurario sunt iiijXXjZi. vjs. — Onera incumbentia dicti mon. de Whitteby : pens, perpetue. Dno archiepo p. pensione de Semar, vZi. vis. viijcZ. Dno Priori de Weduhall per compositionem x qr. de fro. Dno de Semar p. terra in Everlay xiijs. iiijcZ. Hos- pital! sancti Leonardi Ebor. pro Petireome, iij M. allsc : Procurator! dni pape in Anglia, vijs. vjde et r. p. Ann. - XXVjS. viij d. Sma — XXVJA'. viijo?. Sma. Totalis — xlix/t. viij d. P. me Hugon. Fuller Audit. Fiat Dimiss. Rico. Cholmeley p. xxi a. (annis), Rychard Ryche. This List, obtained from the Augmentation Office, comprises a considerable part »f the demesne lands of our abbey, which were occupied by the monhs themselves, and were therefore tithe-free (see p. 333) j and a part also of the lauds occupied by their tenants. It is not easy to ascertain the exact situation of each parcel. The remarks and conjectures of Charlton (p. 292 — 294 .) are pretty correct, though not in every particular. The Infirmary Garth mas probably the east cliff field, on the north of the abbey ; seep. 351- The wind-mill, occupied by Geo. Bushel!, appears to have stood on a small eminence between the abbey church and the top of Green Lane, now within the wall: and the Wind-mill Flats must have been in the same neighbourhood. Pedlyngton, or Bedlington Fields, as I find from another Latin paper, were near Whitby Lathes. The Lathe Close was perhaps near the ropery on Boulby Bank, the Low Lathes being situated there (see p. 488 _) ; or it might be at Whitby Lathes, though the latter might be included in the High Field, comprehend- ing High Whitby and its vicinity. Several of the other places are still known by their ancient names. Part III. Charters. 1. Carta Hugonis comitis Cestrice. (See p, 252, 375, 376.) Hugo Cestrensis Comes Thome Archiepiscopo de Ebor. et Willielmo de Perci, et H. vicecomiti, atque praepositis et ministris meis, et omnibz fide- libz, salutem. Sciatis me concessisse Renfrido priori et conventui ejus eccl. ( ecclesiam ) sci Petri Whitbyensis et omnia que ad earn pertinent. Ipsisque praedicti eccl. dedi eccl. de Flemesburgh cum omnibz decimis, Francigenis et Anglicis, in elimosinam perpetuam. Teste Alano comite, et Radulpho Paga- nello, et Aschetillo de Bulmer, et Roberto de Bruis, et Gislebert. Adelardi filio, et aliis. Reg. W. fol. 7. 2. Carta Willielmi de Pcrci pritni fundatoris abbie. de Wyteby. Willielmus de Perci omnibz cartam hauc legentibz vel a legente audien- tibz. S. (Salutem). Notum sit omnibz tam futuris quam presentibz: Quod ego Wills, dedi Deo etsce Hiide abbatisse, ad fundandam abbaciam olim de- structam, Eccl. sci Petri et see Hiide de Wvteby: Et Scrloni priori fratri meo, et Monachis ibm. Deo servientibz, inelemosinam perpetuam, pro anima dni mei Willi. Regis Anglor. et domine me Matildis Regine; necnon pro domino meoRege VV illo. eorum filio, et pro heredibz eorum Regibz Anglor., et pro dno meo Hugone Cestrensi comite, et pro animabz omnium parentum meorum, et pro memetipso et Emma de Port uxore mea, et Alano de Perci filio nro. et pro heredibz nris: viz. villas de Wyteby, et de Stainsker, et de 'Neuham, et de Stachesby, cum omnibz pertinenciis earum, et portum # Here the word maris has been erased or defaced. SD2 932 APPENDIX NO. III. de Wyteby, et Ilakanessam, et ecciam. see Marie ejusdem ville, et eccl. sei Petri cum omiiibz pertinenciis suis, ut jam dct. (dicti) monaebi de Wyteby in pace sint, et orent pro animabz prenominatis; et Nordfeld, et Sudfeld, Everlaye, et Brokesay, et Tornelaye, cum omnibz ad easdem villas pertinen- tibz: In Upeleya francigenam decimam antioue balle : In Wvltona silit’ (similiter) : In Chevermunt silit’; In Ludefort silit’; in Covenham silit’: In Einmingham in Lindesaya, et decimam annone balle; in Sumerledeby silit’; in Samare in Everwychesire silit’: et in Ergum dimidium piscium: Etfores- tas, et pasturas, et omnia nemora, cum aquis et stagnis, ad prmdictam eccl. de Wyteby pertin. Hec autem omnia dedi Deo et sco Petro et see Hilde ab- batisse, et monachis de Wyteby Deo servientibz; Ita libere, cjuiete ac solute, ex omni exactione et consuetudine seculari; Quod ego et heredes mei pras- dictam elemosinam defendemus et adquietabimus ab omni consuetudine et servilio. Huic dono affuerant testes et concessores: Thomas Archieps. de Ebor. ; Emma de Port uxor mea; Alauns, Walterus, et Willieimus, filii mei; Ernaldus de Perci; Gilbertus Adelardi filius; Warinus; Ric.; Euicho filius Raynfridi; Alredus; Gosfridus Urseli filius. R. Wh. f. 8. 3. Carta Willielmi Regis Anglorum. (Probably W. Rufus, see p. 253, 278.) Willieimus rex Anglor. omnibz fidelibz suissalutem. Sciatis me deaisse, et bac carta mea confirmasse eccl. de Wyteby, et Serloni priori, et monachis ejusd. loci, in perpetuum, super omnes terras suas, adquisitas et adquireudas, et super omnes homines suos, ubilibet habitantes, omnes libertates et liberas consuetudines quas regia potestas alicui eccl. dare potest, liberiores. Concedo etiam et confirmo ipsis et omnibz hominibz suis, ubicunque vadant, et emant vel vendant aliquid, omnem quietanciam de omnibz consuetudinibz et deman- dis regum, et comitum, et baronum, dominorum, et omnium ballivorum suoram. Et prohibeo super forisfacturam regiam lie ullus aliqu. hominum aliquo modo se intromittat de terris eorum, nec de hominibz suis ubicunque fuerinl, nec de forestis, nec de silvestribz bestiis infra terminos suos, nec de aquis eorum in portu de Wyteby vel alibi, nec de possessionibz aliis, ecclesiasticis vel laicis, nec de aliqua re quae pertineat ad eccl. de Wyteby, nisi ipsi monaebi, et ballivi sui, et ministri quos ipsi providerint. Teste IV. de Perci; Westmonasterium. R. Wh. f. 47. 4. Carta Alani de Perci. (See p. 271.) Notum sit omnibz catholice eccl. fidelibz. Uni futuris quam presentibz, quod ego Alanus de Perci concessi et confirmavi eccl. sci Petri et see Hilde de Wyteby, et monachis ibm Deo servientibz, in elemosinam perpetuam, villas quas Tancardus Flandrensis vendidit Willielmo abbati de Wyteby, et mona- ehis illius loci: videlz. Figelingam, et aliam Figelingam, et Normanneby, et Haukesgard, cum omnibz pertinenciis earuni. Ipse vero Tancardus villas prnedictas raihi reddidit, et ego eas dedi et confirmavi pnedicte eccl. et ipse easdem villas abjuravit et quietas clamavit, Deo et sco Petro et see Hilde de Wyteby, et monachis illius loci, absque omni calumpnia de se et de bere- dibz suis. Preterea dedi et confirmavi prcedict. cccl. de Wyteby, et monachis ibm Deo servientibz, in elemosinam perpetuam, omnes terras, forestas, pas- turas, et nemora, de feodo meo, qum ad eccl. de Wyteby pertinent, libere et quiete, in bosco et piano, in pratis et pasturis, in aquis et stagnis, et in om- siibz qiue ad me pertinent, per metas istas; scilz. a portu Wyteby ensi totara PART III. CHARTERS. 935 saarinam usque ad Blawych, et inde usque Grenedic, et in longum Grenedie usque Swinestischage, et usque Thorneloye, et totaui Thornelaye usque Kirke- lac et usque Coppekeidebroc.et inde in longum super cilium ultra Theovesdiches, et usque Staincrossegate, qum est prope viilam de Suffeld, et inde Gretaheued, et usque Elsicroft, et niosam usque dimidiam moss, et inde usque Derewentam, et dimidiam Derewentam in longum usque ubi erumpit Derewenta, et usque Lillacros, et usque Scograinesboues, et usque Sylehou, et usque lithebec, et sicut Lithebech cadit in aquam de Esch, et dimidiam Esch in longum, et ultra Esch ad fontem see Hilde, qui cadit in aquam de Esch, et inde in longum usque Horsecroft, et usque Thordeisa, et usque mare, et inde per marinam ad Wyteby. Omnes vero ecclesias, villas, terras, forestas, et pasturas, et nemora, de feodo meo, quae infra metas istas sunt, dedi Deo et sco Petro, et see Hylde ab'oatisse de Wyteby, et monachis ibm Deo servientibz, pro salute animar. Dominor. meor. regain Angliae, et heredum eor. et H. Cestrens. cotnit. et pro salute animae meae, et omnium parentum meor. et beredum meor. — Hujus rei testes sunt: Will. Walt, et Ric. de Perci, fratres mei; Rob. de Erus, et tres de suis militibz; Rogerus de Rosel; Wydo de Loftiius; et Robertus Fran- cais; et Pichot de Perci; Fulco, et alii. R. Wb. f. 8: 5. Carta Williehni de Percy, filii Alani dc Percy. Notum sit omnibz see matris ecclesie tiliis, tarn futuris quam presentibz, has literas videutibz vel audieutibz, quod ego Willielinus de Percy dedi con- cessi et confirmavi, Deo et ecclesie sci Petri et see Hylde de Whitby, et monachis ibm Deo servientibz, in puram et perpetuam elemosinam, pro duo meo Henrico regis Anglie, et p. heredibz suis, et p. auimobz Willielmi de Percy avi mei, et Alani de Percy patris mei, et Emme de Gant matris mei, et omnium parentum meor.,et p. meipso, et Aliza uxore men, et p. heredibz nris.; Scil. Whitby, ubi prmdct. eccl. est, et eccl. see Marie ejusd. ville, et porluni maris, cum omnibz libertatibz et pertinentiis suis, et Nidreby, Overby, Hauchesgard, Normanneby, Fielingam et aliam Fielingam, Staupe, Snetune, Uglebardeby, Soureby, Neweham, Dnneslac, Stakesby, Brecca, Baldeby, Floram, et Hachanessam, et eccl. see Marie ejusd. ville, et eccl. sci Petri cum pertinentiis suis, ut ibi aliqui monachi antedicte eccl. de Whitbi jugiter maneaut, et Deo et see Hilde serviant, et orent p. animabz praenominatis, et Northfled, Suflled, Everleia, Brocheseia, et Tornesleia, eteccl. de Samara, cum pertinentiis suis, et duas partes decime bladi de totis dominiis meis, un- decunque culta vel seminata fuerint, tempore meo et heredum meor.; Scil. de Uplium, de Wiltun, de Samara, de Natfertuna, et de Stachestuna: In Lin- disia similiter de Emmyngdeham, de Sumerledebi, de Stantune, de Capri- monte, deLudeford, de Elehintune, de Caletorp, de Covenham, de Antnebi; et medietalem piscarie de Ergum, et terram de Eboraco quam Emma de Port, mater Alani de Perci patris mei, pmedet. eccl. dedit, et ij carrncatas terre cum pertinentiis suis in Newtun, quas W. de Percy frater mens eidem eccl. dedit, concedo et confirmo, et ij bovatas terre cum pertinentiis suis in Uplium, ex doao Roberti de Argentum, antedet. eccl. concedo et confirmo; et forestas et pasturas, et omnia nemora, cum aquis et stagnis, ad prasdet. eccl. de Whitbi pertin. Hec autem omnia dedimus ego et pater meus, et avus meus, et parentes mei, et ego ea concessi, et presenti hac carta confirmavi Deo et see Hilde de Whitby, et monachis ibm Deo servientibz, in perpetuam elemosinam, italibere quiete ac solute ex omni exactione et consuetudine seculari, quod nihil om-? 934 APPENDIX NO. III. nino nisi abbacie defensionem mihi relineo. Et ego et heredes mei abbaciaia de Whitby, et totarn przenomiuatam elemosinam meain, defendemus et ad- quietabimus ab omni equilatu, et forensi servitio, et consuetudine seculari, oinnibz rebus. Hii sunt testes; Gilebertus, fiiius Fulconis dapiferi; Ernaldus psbt. ( presbyterus ) de Tatecastre [Tadcaster ) ; Robertus, tilius Pichott de Perci; Baldewinus, lilius Radulphi de Irtuna; Will, de Hauchesgard; Ra- dulphus p’sbit’ de Wliitby; Robertus cocus, et Walterus fiiius ejus; Adamus propositus de Wliitby; Ricardus fiiius Blacher, et Gaufridus fiiius ejus ; et multi alii. R. Wh. f. 7. This charter has been inserted in a blank space left in fol. 7 of the Register : the closing part, from the middle of the word Baldewinus, is carried to the foot of fol. 8. Hence Charlton (p. 88.) has split that name into two, making Bal — Daniel, and dewiuus — Dewine. Here also, and in another charter (p. 90J he has mistaken the name Tatecastre, contracted Tatec. which is Tadcaster. 6. Carla Henrici I, rcgis Anglie. Henricus rex Anglie, archiepis. epis. comit. baron, justic. vicecom. mi- nistrisq. omnibz prsepositis suis, salutem. Sciatis me concessisse et coufirmasse Deo et eccl. sei Petri et see Hilde de Wyteby, et monachis ibm Deo servien- tibz. omnes terras, et ecclesias, et decimas, et omnes possessiones, quas rex Will, pater meus, et rex Will, frater ineus eid. eccl. dederint, et per cartas suas confirmaverint in perpetuam elemosinam. Insuper autem concedo et confirmo praedet. eccl. et monachis ejusd. loci, portum maris apud Wytebi. Et volo et praecipio, ut praedet. inonachi omnia ista praedicta, et omnia alia tenementa sua, habeant et teneant beue et in pace, libere et quiele, cum omnibz liber- tatibz et quietationibz, quas habent eccl. S. J. de Bev. et eccl. 8. Wil. de Ripun. T. Turst.’ arch. A. episcopo Carl. R. com. et aliis. R. Wh. f. 67. 7. Carta Turstini archiepiscopi Eboracensis. Omnibz see matris eccl. filiis, T. Dei gratia Eborac. archiep. salutem. Notum sit vobis et omnibz videntibz vel audientibz literas has, me Turstm. archiepm. concessisse eccl. sci Petri de Wyteby omnem libertatem quam eccl. sci Wylfridi de Ripum et S. Job. de Beverlaco; viz. synodum quietum, et sacrum crisma, et ferrum judiciale, ' necnon et fossam, et quaecunque alia pri- vilegia praedecessores mei eid. ecclesiae concesserunt, confirmasse et rata habuisse. Teste Hugone de’. . . .et Hug. archid. R. Wh. f. 54. 8.Privilegium de Wyteby in tempore Nicholai abbis. Bull of P. HonoriusII. Honorius ep’, servus servor’ Dei, dilecto filio Nicholao abbi. mouast. sci Petri de Wyteby, ejusque successor, regulariter subslituendis in perpet. Ad hoc nobis a Deo pastoralis officii cura comniissa est, ut et bene placentem Deo religionem laboremus statuere, et stabilitam exacta diligeulia conservare. Quapropter, dilecte in Domino fili Nicholae abbas, venerabilis fratris nri. Turstini Ebor. arch, precibz inclinati, tuis rationabilibz postulation*, duximus annuendum. Statuimus enim, ut mouast. beati Petri de Wyteby, cui Deo auctore prseesse dinosceris, quaecunq. in praesentiar. juste et legitime possidet, firma tibi tuisq. successoribz, et illibata permaneaut. Qurecunque preterea in futurum, largiente Deo, concessione pontiticum, liberalitate regum, largitione principum, oblatione fidelium, seu aliis justis modis poteritis adipisci, firma vobis et integra conserventur, salva nimirum diocesani epi- justicia et reve- fentia. Decernimus ergo, utnulli omnino hoininum liceat prefatum monasterium PART III. CHARTERS. 035 temere perturbare, aid ejus possessiones auferre, vel ablatas retinere, minuere, vel teraerariis vexationibus fatigare, sed omnia integra conserveutur, eorum pro quorum sustentatione et gubernatione concessa sunt, usibus omnimodis profutura. Si quis autem huic nostro constitulioni sciens temerario ausu con- traire ternptaveril, nisi presumptionem suam digna satisfactione correxerit, anathematis seutentiam se noverit incursurum. Datum Laterani, v. Idus Decemb. R- Wh. f. 31. 9. Carta Malcolini regis Scotic. M. rex Scot. epis. ab. com. justiciis, bar. vicecom. p’positis, ministris et omnibz hominibz totius terre sue, clericis et laicis, tarn futuris quam pre- sentibz. salutem. Sciatis me concessisse, et hac mea carta auctoritate regia confirmasse, Deo et eccl. de Wyteby, et fratribz monachis ibm. Deo servien- tibz, elemosinam quam Alanus de Perci et Gaufridus frater suus dederint Deo et ecci. see Hylde de Wyteby, quam lex David avus meus illis confirmavit: soil, unam carucatam terre in Hetuuea et aliam in Oxeuham; ad tenendum terram iilam de me et de meis heredibus in p’petuam elemosinam, libere et quiete ab omni seculari servitio et exactione, sicut carta avi mei Reg. Ddis pvotestatur. T. Andrea epo. de Caten. (Caithness) Gg. ( Gregorio ) epo. de Dunch’ [Dunkeld) ; Walt. Concell’io; Walt, filio Alani; Gilberto de Um- frav. ; et aliis. R. Wh. f. 15. 10. Carta Gernagot canonici Eboracensis. Omnibz see matris eccl. fit. tarn presentibz quam futuris, Gernagot Ebo- raci canouicus, sal. Tsotum sit vobis, quod ego Gernagot, quum meipsum reddidi Abbi Ric. et eccl. sci Pet. et see Hylde de Wyteby, dederim eidem eccl. pro salute anime mee, in eleemosinam perpetuo jure libere possidendam, medietatem terre mee quae est juxta eccl. sci Petri Eboraci; iilam scil. rae- dietalem qua? propinquior est eidem eccl. et adjacet mansure Willi, filii nri.; quam donacionein meam presens carta testatur; cujus hii testes sunt. Wills, filius Tostivi; Paulinus, epi. filius; Walterus, filius Fagamilfi; Normannus p’sbit’; Rog. et Robertas Ruffus; et alii. R. Wh. f. 65. This copy teas obtained since the note on p. 299 was written. My conjecture as to per meipsum is wrong; but the words reddidi meipsum by no means imply that Gernagot teas a deserter. It is curious to observe that this canon of York, and his bishop, had each a son! From another charter 1 find that a minister of Lyth had also a son: Archil psb. de Lithum, et Alexander filius ejus: f. 20. So much for the celibacy of the clergy ! — Since the note on p. 399 was written, I have ascertained, that the correct reading of the words in Cancy's charter, there ref erred to, is servicium suum et panem ct cetera.” 11. Carla Ricardi abbatis. See p. 475, 476. Omnibz see matris eccl. filiis, Ricardus dei gratia abbas Wytebyensis, ejusdemque eccl. conventus, salutem. Sciant omnes videntes vel audientes has literas, me assensu totius capituli mei, dedisse et concessisse in perpetuum Wytebyam in liberam burgagiam, et burgensibz ibm manentibz, libertatem burgagie, et legisliberas liberaque jura; Quietationem, et in Wyteby et extra Wyteby, in universis et de universis ad eccl. sci Petri et ibm Deo servient, pertinentibz; communemque pasturam; Quatuor vero viasintrandietexeundi, ad burgam liberam et quietam de omnibz consuetudinibz; de una quaq. tofta reddendo, pro universis serviciis, annis singulis v denarios, dimid. ad pente- £>3G APPENDIX NO. III. cost, et dimid. ad festum sci Martini. Si qwis autem terram suam vendere voluerii, primitus hoc abbi. ostendere debet, et ei terrain, si earn emere voluerit, vendendam offerre, pro tali rationabili precio quale alius ei pro eadem terra dare voluerit: Si veroeam emere noluerit, consilio et consensu ejus eandem veudat: Emptor vero terre consuetudinem ad saisinam iiij denar, dabit, et j denar, burgensibz ad beverage. Et si aliqua querimonia inter burgenses oritur, tribus vicious unus ahum, ut sibi rectum et quid juris est facial, apud domum propriam requirere debet : Quod si sibi in tertia peticione satisfactionern ro- luerit, demum justiciam ville rationabiliter, ut rectum faciat, querat. Tresque in anno sint eis placitorum institution's: Prima post epiphaniam; S< cunda post pascha; Tertia post festum see Hylde. Quod si aliipia querimonia infra prsedict. institutiones se emiserit, et determinari intra easdern non possit.sine dilations ad primam instilutiouem terrainetur. Hoc ut latum et durabile ab omnibz. habeaiur. optavimus, a festo sci Jacobi apostoli proximo. R.Wh.f.66. Since the note on p. 461 was printed, an impression of the Seal or Whitby Abbey has been fortunately discovered at Yorlc, affixed to a lease granted by Henry Davell, or J)e Vail, the last abbot, Janry. 10 th loot. On the one side is St. Peter, under a canopy, with the key in his left hand, and his right hand in the aititude of benediction : Legend; SIGILL. SCE PeTRI. & SCG : ]MLD6: De : WYTEBY: MONAS— The Seal of St. Peter and St. Hilda of Wyteby monastery. On the reverse is an elegant .figure of Lady Hilda, with her left hand on her breast, and her right holding the crosier, or abbess’s staff ; Legend; Y M AGO Y1RGIN1S HY1LD6 j-==The image of the virgin Hylda. jt Kill be seen from the annexed sketches, which arc of the same size as the eriniual, that the ino sides do not correspond, that bearing the .figure oj Hilda be- ing smallest, and probably most ancient.- It is also best executed, the feaiuicsand shave of the abbess possessing a beauty and delicacy, to natch our cngraici has n dune justice. Probably both arc as old as the tune of the abbot Richai d II, .tor tl eaZi over Peter’s head is of very ancient architecture. Peter’s .face and some other parts of the impression have been injured. i PART III. CHARTERS. 937 13. French indenture, dated May 11, 1329. See p. 316, with the Notes. Acorde. est par ceste endenture, escriet a Everwyk le unzime jour de Maij lan iu regne le Roy Edward tierce du conquest tierce, entre religious homines Labbe et Covent de Whiteby, dune parte, et Richard Basy, dautre, qe. com le dit Richard sey conust a tenire ses boves de terre, od les apurtenaunces, en Thorp-Malteby, susditz Abbe et Covent, par feance e la rente de vint soutz annuelment, les queles sount de lur fee elur seygarnye, come drot VPanter fiz et heir Johan de Bustardthorp, qe. dil cit Abbe deit tenire par les servises de sus nomz; de la quele rente ascuns arerages esteint duwes par dehat esteaunte entre le dilz parties, dunt le dit Abbe de sa boue voilaunee et amiablement ad relesse au dit Richard tcuz les arerages de la dite rente a luy dewes tanqe au terme de la Pentecost prochcine suaunt E le dit Richard graunt et cooust sey estre entendaunt au dit Abbe et ses ministres de la rente de vint soutz par an, com son tenaunt des terres en Thorp-Malteby desus nomez. En tesmoygu dt s queus choses as cestes endentures les parties unt seaus mys chauniablement. Escrit a Everwyk le jour et le an sus ditz. R. Mh. f. 7a. 14. French indenture, dated Fch. 3, 1343 See as above. Ceste endenture faite entre Labbe et le Covent de Whiteby, dune parte, et Robert le fiz Johan Bustard de Bustard-Thorp, dautre parte, tesmoigne, qe. come les aunces- tres, mesmes cest Robert tindrent sis bovetz de terr , ou les apurtenances, en Thorp- Malteby, de les avaut ditz Abbe et Covent; et de mesmes sis bovetz de terre firent une rente service de vint soutz as avauntditz Abbe et Coient de an en an, a 1. s festes de Seint Martin en Yver et Pentecost, par oweles portions. De que le rente service de vint soutz les avauntditz Abbe et Covent, et leur predecessours, t'urent seisis. du temps dunt memoire ne court, de les auncestres mesmes cesti Robert, taunt qe Richard Basy prist Maude mere mesmes cesti Robert a femme ; le quel Richard lavaunt dite rente service de vint soutz ascune foiz renisa rendre. Laeaunt dit Robert voet et graunt, pur lui et ses heires, rendre a les avaunt ditz Abbe et Covent, et a leur successours, la portion de la dite rente service de vint soutz pur la quantite de les sis bovez de terre en sa main esteaunt, a terme de la vie lavaundite Maude sa mere et femme le dit Richard. Et lavaunt dit Robert voet et reconoist, pur lui, ses heirs, et ses assignez, rendre touz les ans avenirs ap apres le deors la dite Maude sa mere, a les avauntditz Abbe et Covent, et a leur successours, lavaunt dite rente service de vint soutz, ad termes susnomez, et touz jours. En tesmoignance de quele chose, auxi bien le dit Abbe, come lavauntdit Robert le fiz Johan Bustard, a ceste endenture eulrechaungt- ablement ount mis leur seals. Donne a Ewerwyk, le tierz jour de Feverer, Lan de notre seignur mill treis centz quaraunt tierz. R. Wh. f. 74. 15. Old English translation of No 14. This endentur, mayd betwix the Abbote and the Covent of Whiteby, of the oon partye, and Robt the son of Johan Bustard of Bustard-Thorp, of the other partye, wytness, that whar the auncestres of this same Robt held vi oxgange of land, with the apurtinance, in Thorp-Malteby, of the aforsayd Abbote and Covent; and of tides same vi oxgange of land made and rent-service of twenti shillyns to the aforsayd Ab- bote and Covent fro zere to zere, at the fests of Saynt Martyn in IFynter and IFyt- sonday, be evyn porcions; of whilk rent cervice of twenty shiliyngs the aforsayd Abboie and Covente, and tliar predecessours, war seysid of tyme of whilk no mend es of the auncestres of the same Robt, unto Richard tyme that Basy toke Mawde moder of this same Robt to wyfe; whilk Richard the aforsayd rente-service of twenti shiliyngs some tyem refused to pay. The forsayd Robt wyll and grauntys, for Ilyin and hys heirs, to pay to the aforsayd Abbote and Covent, and to thar successours, the porcion of the sayd rente-service of twenti shiliyngs for the quantite of the vi oxgange of land in hys hande beynge, for terme of the lyfe of the aforsay d Mawde his moder, and wyfe to the sayd Richard. And the aforsayd Robt wyll and knawlegs, for hym, his heirs, and his assignes, to pay all the zers for to come after the decese of the sayd Mawde hys moder, to the aforsayd Abbote and Covent, and to thar successours, the aforsayd rente- service of twenti shiliyngs at the termys above namyd for ever more. In wytness of whilk thynge also we, the sayd Abbote, as the aforsayd Robt the son Johan Bus- tard, to this endenture ether to other have putt tlier seyls. Gyfven at Zork, the third day of Feverzere, the zer of our Lord mill ccc xliij. R. Wh. f. 74, d E 030 APPENDIX NO. IV. Papers relating to Guisborough Priory. 1. Deed (/ranting the brotherhood of Guisborough priory to the abbey of Sit Mary at York. See p. 430, 431, Note. £Ubcrcn&o Religiosoq. in cristo patri, Dempno Edmundo perraissione divina Abbati monasterii Sancte marie extra muros C i \ i tat is Euor ordinis Sanrti Benedicti, et ejusdem loci Confratribus, Johannes ea :em peruiissione divina Prior monasterij sive prioratus bte. marie de Guysseburn in Clyveland, Ordinis Sancti Au- gustini, predct Ebor. dioc.j et ejusdem loci conventus, Salutem in omnium Salvatore, Cum illis primo loco teneamur obnoxij, a quibr beneficia cognoscimur recepisse; Cumq. nihil habere nos l'atearaur quo multiplicibus illis meritis quibus vra. caritas Dos et monasterium nrm. hactenus prosecuta est, nisi precum nrar. humilium ren- deamus: Hinc est qd. vos Reverende pater vrosq. confratres, et presentes et futuros, in Confraternitatem nostri capituli spirilualem per presentes admittimus, Yobisq. quantum in nobis est, et altissimo placuerit, omnium missar. vigiliar., Jejuniorum, orationum, divinorura officiorum, Ceterorum operum pietatis, et suffrariorum quo- rumcunq , que per nos et nostros successores fiunt aut fient intperpctuum, domino largienle, partieipacionem concedimus specialem. Ccmq. abhacluce per mortem deus vos evocaverit, et hoc nobis nostrisq. successoribus cerlitudinaliter intimatum fucrit, pro vobis omnibus et singulis, tam nunc presentibus quam futuris, .sicut pro aliis Confratribus nostris spiritpalibus de medio sublatis, consueta orationum suffragia singulis annis futuris, perpetuis temporibus persolvemus. In ccjes rei testimonium, Sigillum commune Capituli nostri presentibus est appensum. Dat. Apud Guysseburn predict, in domo nostra Capitulari, ultimo die mensis Septembris, Anno dni. Mil- lesimo Quingentesimo undecimo. The convental seal is still appended to this deed. See as above. 2. The burning of the priori/ church of Guisborough, as related by Walter Hemmingford, g canon of Gusborouyh. See p. 429. Incendium ecclie Gysburnie. Anno dni M.cc.xc.i, xvii kl. Junii, et p’ma die ro- ga cion um, eccliam Gysburnie, cum libris theologie multis et preciosissimis, ix ealicibr, et vestimentis et ymaginibz suiuptuosis, verax llamma consumpsit. Et quia prefata futuris dant formam negociis, idcirco infortunii casual, ut huj’ casus inpost’um de- clinet’, p’senti opusculo duxi inst rendum. Die enim p’dco., qui quidem erat ventosus et eisdem malus, ascendit plumbarius eccliam cum duobr garcionibr suis, ut et fora- mina pluinbi veteris de novo stauno consolidaret ; sicut per dies aliquot ex disposici- one mala tamdudum inceperat ; opposuitq. patellas suas ferreas cum carbonibr et igne, in ruderibr sive gradibr excelsi operis, super ligna secla, turhas aliquas, et cetera quoque cremabilia. Et ex parte meridionali, in cruce corporis ipsius ecclie urguerat ventus urens et perflans a meridie. Cumq. manisset ibidem usq. post missa in opero suo, descendit tandem ante processionem conventus, credens garcionibr ignem ex- tinguendam. At illi cito posteum descenderunt, igne non plene extineto ; reaccensusq. est ignis in carbonibr, et partim ex calore ferri, ex sparsione carbonum, sumpsit sc ignis in inferiora ligna, et cetera quoq. cremabilia. Quo inceplo resolutum est plum- bum, et accense sunt tabule super tingna: deinde erevit in immensum, et consumpsit omnia. Et pro tanto dampno ct jactura non modica ipsis fugientibr, non plus conse- cuti fuim’ vel vulgare verbum qd. potui ego, unde et successores inpost’um ex ipsa nra. negligencia discant cauti’ sibi providere. From a MSS. copy of the Gysburn chronicle in the Advocates' Library , Edin- burgh, fol. 127. The reader mill observe that the date of the fire, in p. 429, copied from Leland, is incorrect. I may add, that the chronicle ends icith 1297 (not 1308 ), though it glances at events of a later date. In this chronicle, as in Brampton' s, the erection of the priory is erroneously dated in 1129, and the death of pope Calijctus in 1130. See p. 413, 414 — It may be proper to notice here, that since p. 422 mas printed, I have learned that the painted glass in Guisborough church reus taken from the windows of the priory church ; and since the note on p. 427, 42S was printed, I have been assured, that the account of the skeletons found under the stone cofiius ■is not quite correct. GENERAL INDEX Abbots of Wh. 258—265, 383— 3S7 Accidents, singular, 776, 777. Acknowledgments, vi, vii, 37, 1 39,365, 461, 501, 555, 559, 563, 600, 748, 749, 809, 851, 865. iEifleda,ab.37, 1 18, 141,212,215-231 JElfwine, or Edwirie, 33, 171, 172. Agriculture, 1 1, 12, 800 — 806. Bilsdale, 652, 748-750, 772,804,847. Biography & family history, 824-872. Birds, 797, 798,944- Botany, 792 — 795. Botanic Garden, 639, 640. Boulby, 75, 780, 789, 810, 816, 817. Bridesiones, 665, 686, 775. Bridges, 489, 541—545, 707. Aidan bishop ofNorthum. 1 19-125,135. Bridlington, 252, 328, 329, 836. Aislaby near Whitby, 377, 655, 818. Brigantes, inhabit, of this district, 6- 10. Alehfrid,k.ofDeira, 28,30-38, 157,221. British churches, 104,1 18,153.192,194 Aldfrid, k.of Nor. 30-38, 196,220,228. Allerston, 77, 693, 804, 873. Alluvial soil, 778, 779, 791, 792. Alnetto, Robert de, 362, 364, 400. Alum-works, 759-762, 806-817, 826. Ammonites, see Snake-stones. Amusements, 636. Anlaf k. of Northumbria, 54 — 61. Antiquities, miscellaneous, 486, 659, 660, 730, 750—754, 762—768. Armorial bearings, 345, 423, 426,731. Arundelfamily, 290, 301, 315,374, 500. Athelstan, 1st k.of all Eng. 43, 55-58. Augustine, bp. of Canterb. 105, 108. Ay ton inCleve. 83, 90, 100, 324, 332, 377, 652, 811, 816, 819, 848-850. Ayton on Derwent, 87, 90, 357,379, 818. Bamborough,2 1 ,26,38,40,73, 1 20, 1 7 1 . Banks,"58I, 582. Basaltic ridge, 777, 778. Basedale nunnery, 275, 332, 378, 415, British towns, ancient, 666 — 682, 687, 689, 692, 700. Britons, 4-17,25,57,663,681,685,763. Brompton, 90,652,732, 752,774,819. Brompton, or Brumton, John of, 341 — 343, 353, 402, 403, 652, 653. Brott on, 83,88,378,4 1 9, 420,608, 874. Brown, Thomas, a brave soldier, 845. Brus farn. 88,92,32 7,360,4 1 3-430,750. Brus, Rt. de, k. of Scotl. 95,426, 430. Buckingham fam. 465, 653, 729, 815. Buildings, 128, 148—151, 209, 210, 339 351, 366— 370, 424, 448-450, 4S4, 497,498,5 10-512,71 8-752,944. Bulmer fam. 98,421,443,730,829,876. Burgage, Burgesses, 281, 283, 288, 356, 475-479, 572, 584-592, 601. Burniston, 257,272,274,280,329.818. Bustard Thorp, 272, 289, 316, 360. Oadwallon, a British prince, 24, 25. Camps, ancient, 6S5 — 701, 705. 435, 436, 462, 465, 654, 672, 685. Canals projected, 580, 581, 646, 647. Batteries, 491, 502, 540, 541. Bede, the venerable, 39, 209 — 212. jCancy, or Chancy, fam. 269, 3 1 6, 399. Carlisle, 318, 334-338, 4 1 5, 437, 763. Benedictine older, 203, 385, 396, 397 Castleton, 684, 731, 758, 875, 876. Benedictab. 259-261 ,299,377,396,404 Castles, 718 — 740. Benefactions 614,615,619,621,626,630 Bernicia, kingd. 2 1 , 30.46, 55, 112,115 Beverley, 197, 260, 445, 830, 840. Bihle Societies and Assoc. 631, 878. 6 E 2 Cawthorn, 77, 693 — 701, 722, 794. Cayton, 77, 272, 330, 379, 380, 873. Ceadda, bp. of Nortbum. 176 — 181. Cedd, bp. of Essex, 28, 123-128, Y1§. 940 GENERAL INDEX. Cedmon the poet, 182 — 190 312, 362. Cciibacy of the clergy, 169, 367, 935. Chaloner family, 417, 423, 425, 431, 464, 807, 808, 824—837. Chapman, Mr. Win. 283, 634, 846. Charities, 624 — 629, 876-878. Charlton, historian of Wh. 2u8, &e 637, 638, 869, 870. Charters, Latin, & c. 931 — 938. Cholmley, Sir Hugh, 99, 284, 50i, 531, 543, 573, 639, 739, 830-838. Cholmley family, 284, 463, 500, 501, 513, 573, 589, 612, 613, 732, 815, 828—840, 842, 866, 869. Christianity introduced, 103-128,239 Churches and Chapels, 90 — 92, 226, 366—382, 419—421, 607—624, 740—754, 873—876. Coaches, &c. 579, 580. Coalham, 420, 426, 650, 789. Coals, 529, 532, 533, 601, 772, 817. Coins, ancient, 472 — 474, 486, 582, 583, 600, 720, 754, 765, 766. Colman bp. of Northum. 125, 156- 1 75 Colmnba, ah. of Iona, 1 18,164-166,171 Cook, Capt. James, 850 — 863. Court- leet, & c. 283 , 307,445, 584-59 1 . Crop ton, 77, 437, 087 ,721, 757,788, 87 ' Crosses, 319, 352, 377, 571, 753-758. Crossby Ravenswarth, 272, 292, 306. 3 1 S,‘ 33 1 , 33 4—338 , 382, 4 1 0, 4 1 o. Customhouse, 569, 570. Cuthbert, St. 148, 157,181,196-198. 216—227, 411. Driffield, Aidfrid’s tomb, 35,230,29?. Druidical remains, 663 — 666, 670, 671, G74, 67 6, 885. Dundas, fain- 650 803, 813,818, 827. Duncombe, fam. 465, 6 52, 731, 804. Dansley, 2S7, 354, 36-3,376,699,706, 717—723, 793. Durham, 70, 78, 88, 430, 744. Dunum Sinus, 473, 709, 716, 717. Eaiii!eria,< )swyN q 30-32,155,212-15 Earls ot N irthumherlatnl, 61 — 80. Easby, 651, 819, 868. East Row, 272,618,648,726,793,81 1. Easington, 75, 90,240,421,429, 750. Eij tiers ton, 85, 4^9-441 , 65 j.o 57 ,690- 6S2j757,774,805,819, 841, 873,875. Ecgfrid.k. of N. 30-34, 191-195,219. EdsLone, 643, 746 — 748, 874 — 877. Edu in, k of Northum. 22-24, 105-118, 129—136, 171, 172 Egton, 82,88, 90,272, 431-433, 574- 654, 727, 729, 757,761, 76),bo6, 74* Egton Grange, G64 669,680,75S,b0i- Eskdale, 185,288,310-3-12, 316, 362^ 385,433,463,659,764,797 ,81 1,817. Eston, 688, 639, 741, 769, 874, 875. the) u aid. k ofDeira, 28,29,125 126. Everley , 254-257,270, 290, 308, 3 i 5. Evesham inori. 242,244,289,393,399. Eure family, 98,379 4-;6, 827 , ooS. Fairs, 28l , 41'', 57 1 ,57 2, o7 4,5 - 9,8-06. Female Charlies, 627, 65 -6)4, 87 7. Fishergale, York, ceil t here, 260.279. 330. 360 365. 395. 4C0 Da nby, 83, 90, 416,421, 655, 672,684, 731, 764, 805, 818, 843, 874. Danes, 44, 63, &c. 82, 232 234, 661 Dean John, a brave seaman, 844, 845. Deira, kingdom, 21 ,29,46-55,1 13, 115. Deluge, effects of, 790 — 792. i)c/goritla,perhapsCawthcni ,717-723 Derventio, perhaps Malton, 717 -723 Description of Whitby, 502 — 514. Devastations, 16, 48, 72, 89, 232-240. Dissenters, 469,519,618-62 4,875,876 Dissolution of the mouasts. 451 — 465 Docks, 550, 551, 555, 556, 604, 944 Domesday, 75, 81-93, 249, 256, 885. Fishermen, Fisheries, 328. 329 475. 504. 576. 629. 820-823. Fishes, 798. 822. Fhmborou_h, 20.252. 375. 71S-721. Forts, ancient, 6)7. 707. 768-713. 718- 724. 731-733. Foulis, family, 80S 827. S2S. Friaries, 442. Fryop, 684. 685. 788 797. 818.876. Fylin: ,75.271 287.299 307.310-313. 374-376.382 463. 8-31 >4 1.874. 87 7. Gamal, Savon chief, 83.743 — 746 Gentlemen’s seals, 511. 648.650-655. Gibscn, Eras. Esq, 6o8. 870 — 872, GENERAL INDEX. S4i Glwedale, 41G. 425.758.797.818.874 Godeland, 361.395 670.773 797.803. Goldsborough, 82. 432. 666. 763. Grinkel, 650. 804. 890. Growmond, 431-434.463 705.754.762. Guisborough,70. 75.83.88-90.276.27 7 327.413-431. 441. 415. 457. 461. 464. 557. 651. 652. 804 806-808. 810. 811. 815-817. 819. 824-827. 835. 874—877. 938. Hackness, 87. 91. 93. 206-211 240 251. 254-257. 271. 280. 287. 358. 377. 395.463.464.653.805. 830.87 3 Handaife pr. 434.462.465.764 768 805 Harwood Dale, 226 287.318.377. 661, 671. 679. 732. 762. 764. 777. 873 Hartlepool, 73.96. 138-142.200. 204. 211. 420 421. 789. Hawsker, 271.287.302. 377. 523. 754 Helmsley, 362.445 652.774.806.843. Hilda, ab. 85. 112. 129-214.233-237. Hills and vales, 769. 770. Hinderwell. 75.87,226.272.354 434. 750 874. 877. 878. Hob-hole, 776, 883. liode hermitage, 362, 400. Homage, homagers, 274.275.300-309, Hornby, Mr. II. a brave' seaman 866. Horngartli, or l J cnny Hedge, 303. 307-314. 321. 448. Hotbam family, 35.652. 830-833.836 838. 840-842. Hospitals, 363-366. 421 . 443-445.447 . 456. 624-626 876. lloues, or tumuli, 656-664. 670. 671 674. 676. 685 692. Hovingham inscription, 712. 713.719 Hull, 420.561. 579. 836. 841. Hugh Lupus e. ofCluster, 87.252.375. Huntington, nr. York, 289. 330. 331. Hutton-Bushell, 272. 304. 380. 439. 652. 786. 805. 818. 873. Hutton-Lowcross, 418. 421. 435. Hutton -le-hole, 818. S75. 877. Hutton Midgrave, S2.90.727. 752-754 Jarrow monast. 45.201.233.243.407. Iburn: see Yburn. Ingleby, 75. 272. 302. 378. 652. 827. Inscriptions, 341-343. 343 349. 353. 423. 438. 462. 639. 703. 704. 708- 716. 720. 741-752. 767. 768. Insurance, 568. 569. 583. Inventory, Latin, 928, 929. John of Bever. bp. of York, 196 — 200. , Johnstone family, 359, 464. Joreval abbey, 343. 402.403.758.796 Ireland, 12 33.34.54-56.105.175.842. irfon, 274. 304. 306. 379. 439. July Park, 702-705. 729. 758. 797. Justices of the Peace, 604. 609. Justinian, a Roman ofucer, 709 — 716. Keldhoim, 438.441 462.465.763.819. Kettleness, 648. 811. 816. 817 8&3. Xildale, 78. 90. 442. 652. 731. 805. Nilton, 83.729.730.787.788.794.804. Kinglhorpe, 653. 805. 829. Kings of Noi thumb. 20 — 61. virkby in Cleve. 323. 378. Sll. 876- Kirkby Moorside, 90. 652. 731. 746- 751. 804. 898. 819 843. 874-877. Xirkdale, 91. 741-748. 774. 843.S74 Kirkleatham, 8-3.87. 90. 651 795, 819. 838. 845 874. 876. Xirkham priory, 329. 337. 446. 7, 0. Xnaresborough, Root. of, 400-402. 4*a. Knights hospitallers, 443-445. 756. Laugbargh, 77. 643. 778, 819. Larpool, 287 .511. 787. 793. 794.804. Luscellcs. General, 6 12. 614. 843.844. Lawson, Sir John, 839. 842. 843. earning, state of, 201. 403 407. 637. Leavisham, 687. C98. 716. 797. 874. Lestingham, 28. 91. 93. 126-128. 171 176: 180. 240. 245-250. 740. 874! Libraries in Whitby, 638- 639- Library of Wh. abbey, 350 355. 356. 389! 403-405. 407. 918-920. Lilia’s generosity, 24 106- 661. Lime, 773. 774. 802. 818. Llndisfarne, or Holv Island, 42. 45. 120. 213. 195. 196. 216.221. 233. Littlebeck, 313. 788.810. 816. 817. Liverlon, 75. 272. 274. 306. 421. 874. Lockton, 77. 437. 803- 818. 874. Loft house, 75. S7-89. 421. 650. 768. 777. 786. 810-819. 874. 875. $42 GENERAL INDEX. London, 108. 546. 560. 721.S24-829. Longevity, 523. 524 800. Lord’s day , abuse of, &c. 371.411.640. Lytli, 82. 88. 324-327. 631. 874-878. Malton,Tlios.de,ab- 265 308.319.357. Malton, 438. 700 712. 719 723. 766. Manners & customs, 634 635. 878-884. Manufactures, 555-560. 577.806-819. Manufactories, ancient, 758-762. Markets, 411.418. 571-576 589. 806. Market-places, 489. 571-575. 756. Marsk, 70. 75. 87. 88. 328. 650. 874. Marton in Cl. 87. 434. 651. 850. 874. Marton nr. Picker. 87. 93. '754. 876. Mauley fam 96. 324-327. 432. 727. Melsa, abbey, 330. 727. 754. 762. Memorials, Latin 906-918. Mickleby, 83. 88. 875. 877. 878. Middleburgh cell, 226. 327. 360. 395. Middleton nr. Pick. 273. 788. 874. Mills, 90. 628. 629 819. Mineralogy, 769-792.944. Ministers of Wh. 353. 608. 618-622. Ministers of the district, 873 -876. Missionary Societies, 632, 878. Monkish fables, 107.179.199 211-214. 233. 235. 300. 310-312, 402. Monks at Wh. 263.391.394-399.460. Monuments, 352. 426. 612-614. 741. Mowbray f. 79. 95. 306.362.446.731. Mulgrave, 42. 82- 85-88. 325-327.363- 431.648.666 687.7 19 -729 797.S04 Mulgrave family, 648. 729. 739. 803. 817. 818. 840. S63-S66. 871. Names of towns, remarks on, 84.885. Newbegin, 352. 655. 793. 794- 805. Newcastle, 243-358-470. 529.532 629. Ne'wholm, 75. 270. 302. 354 614. Newton near Pickering, 437 693.874. Nicholas, abbot, 259. 327. 354. 415. Ninian St.’s chapel,371-374,615-617. Normanby, nr. Wh. 78. 271. 302- 463. Normanby in Cleveland, 651. Normanby nr.Pickering,774.787.874. Northumbrian kingd- 20, &C-49-55. 61- Nunneries, 434-441. Nunthorp, 332- 378, 435- 874. Offices of the monastery, 349-357 Officers of the monastery, 383-394- Organic remains, 779-786. Orm, Saxon chief, 83. 84- 743-746, Ormesby, 84- 88. 90. 651. 819- 874. Oswald k- of North- 25. 26- 115- 118- Oswin k- ofDeira, 27- 120. jOswy k. of N- 27-33.38-137. 140 1 55- Painted Glass, 348. 352. 422. 768- j Papal power, 898-906- Parliament, ab. members of, 265. 386- Parliament, acts of, 532-534. 600-602* Patrons of livings, S73, 874- Paulinus, bp. of North urn- 106-115, Peak, 708- 773- 810- 815-818. 875. Pen.Ja k- of Mercia, 24-26-28.29.1 36. Penny-hedge or Horngartit- 303-314- Penrith, Old, inscription, 712, 713. Percy Alan de, 253-239-27 L 297 367 • Percy, Win- de. S7- 244-258. 270.296- Percy, Wm.ab. 257-259-271-300-364. Percy, Wm-de, s. of Alan. 95-306-379. Percy fam- 95-98-258 275.290-292- 296-318.319-326-352-376.3S0.381 417- 442- 734- 829. S69. Percy, Win. of Dunsley, 300-354.363. Percy, Alex.de, ofSneaton, 319-322. Peter, abbot, 264. 415. 447- 477- Petrifaclions; see Organic remains. Pickering, S3-90. 443- 580- 631. 633. 666-725.732-736.806.818-874-878 Piers, 530-539, 646, 839. Places of worship, 607-624. 873-876- Police, 587- 600 — 604. Poor-rates, Poorhouses, 592 — 600. Pope’s curse, SOS — 810- i Population, 514—523. 528.61 0, 643- 644. 873. 874. Port of Whitby, 225. 271. 278-280. 291. 309. 471 — 175.529-570. 831. Possessions of Wh. Abbey, 270 — 275- 295-297- Post-office, 578- 579. jPresteby, 82- 91. 93- 242- 256- 475- Prices, 291. 574. 816. 823. Priories, 413 — 442. Priors of Whitby, 242- 257. 387. Privileges, as soch, sack, &:c 27S-286- 418. 440. 445- GENERAL INDEX. 943 Quadrupeds, 796, 797. Quarries, 818. Rabbit warrens, 804. Ravenhill Inscription, 48, 708 — 716. Redcar, 86, 420, 650, 789, 820. Reformation, remarks on the, 453-470. Register of Wh. abbey, 266-269,462. Reiufrid the prior, 91, 242 — 252. Relics, 170, 233— 237. Religious Institutions, 630-634,877. Religion, state of, 171-174,407-412, 451—455. 640—642, 834 Rents, 288, 4S8, 527, 528, 930, 931. Revenues of Wh. abbey, 288 — 295. Richard de Burgh, ah. *261 -264, 394. Rich.Watervilie,ab. 263,403,475,478. Rievaux abbev, 289, 330, 364, 36S. 445-4-50, 457, 461, 465, 750,759. Rise and progress of Wh. 471 — 501. Robin Hood’s Bay, SG, 334,485,529, 569,576,647,786,820-823,876,878. Roger, abbot, 265, 330,332,360,480. Rolls, ab. 286, 292-294, 384, 920-928. Romans in Britain, 4-15,47 1-474,660 Romish church, 105,108,153-173,178, 192-194,230,325,327,336-338,410. Rom. roads & stations, 699-725, 7-33, Roperies, 555-557. [777. Rosebnry, 378, 667, 767, 778, 863. Rosedale, 436-438, 462, 465, 758. Rousby , 87 , 90,326,650,73 1 ,7 52,874. Rudyard, Sir Benjamin, 835. Runswick, 83, 576, 629, 648—050, 776, 820-823, 878. Ruswarp, 90, 288, 528, 557, 574, 580, 595—597, 655, 802. Sailcloth manufactories, 557-559. Saltburn hermitage, 363 - Saltburn, 650, 651, 811, 816, 820. Saltwick, 785, 810, 815 — 817. Sandsend, 432, 631, 647, 766, 780, 783,785,810,816,818,820,877,878. Saxons, 13-18, &e. 105, 661, 677. Scamridge, anli<[. 657,689,676, 690. Scarborough, 67, 86, 95-99,273,439- 443, 452, 579, 618, 637, 644-647, 736-740, 750, 755, 757, 786, 819- 823, 830-838, 842,844, 876-878. 6 Schools, 630, 631 638, 876—878. Scots, 12,13,20,53,96,119,833,837. S- otland, 12,40,54-57,65,69,95,105, 175,272,290,419,429,620,696,826. Seals, 430, 431, 461, 936. Seamen, 547, 566, 567. Seamer, 87, 90, 287, 323, 379, 382, 410,466,660,693,715,770,806,873. Serlo, prior, 252 — 257, 270. Services, feudal, 303 — 314, 418. Shields, 138, 529, 717, 846. Shipbuilding, 548-554 , 562, 600, 646. Shipping of Wh. 218, 225. 545, 563. Sinnington, 440, 754, 774, S04, 876. Shops, 576 — 578. Skelton, 83,89,420,608,651,730 804, 811, 819, S30, 849, 850, 874, 875. Skinningrave, 420, 650, 798, 820. Skirpenbeck, 269, 323, 381, 399. Slaves, villanes,&c. 275-277,417,432. Sleights, 28S, 303,463,655,757,818. Snaiuton, 439, 440, 741, 873, 875. Snake-stones, 213,353,368,781,782. Sneaton, 75, 258, 288, 290, 312, 320- 322, 352, 374, 757, 874. Spaunton, 91, 249, 731, 741, 744. Spital Bridge, 283, 364-366, 400. Springs; see Wells. Staiusacre, 270, 287, 320, 595, 794. Stainton Dale, 443-446,456,465,647. Staiths, 86, 570, 576, 629, 650, 777. 780, 820—823, 851, 878. Stakesby, 7 5, 256, 287, 3 1 9,463, 757. Stamford bridge, 67,718 — 721. Stephen Whitby, 91,92, 93, 245-255. Stevenson, John Hall, Esq. 849,850. Stockton, 565, 580, 583, 803, 806. Stokesley, 90, 99-101, 324, 436, 652, 746, 766, 806, 819, 866, 874-878. Stoupe, 271, 287, 463, 657, 81 1, 816. Strata, descript, of, 770-778,790-792. Streets of Whitby, 355-357,372-374, 479—501, 504—510, 555, 602. Streoneshaih (or Whitby), 29,48, 115, 129-132, 14 1 -237,240,471 -474,709. Sunderland, 101, 529, 579,802, 866. Superstitions and customs, 878-884, Surnames in Whitby, 524-527. F 9,44 GENERAL INDEX. Swarthoae, 272, 658, 664, 725, 754. Synod of Streoneslialli, 158, &c. Tad caster, 139,211,290. Thordisa, 272, 325, 726. Thornton, 77, 333, 653, 733, 805,818 819, 829, 874-877. Tinmouth, 80, 233, 261, 426. Tithes, 291, 292, 324-338. Tockets, or Toccotes, 70, 83, 420,651. Toll boot!), or Town-hall, 588 — 590. Topography, 643—656. Tosti e.of Northum. 65-67 .33,86,743. Trade, Tradesmen, 560, 577, 578. Trenches, ancient, 68 1-685, 689-693 Turner tain. 555,651, 805 .838.843,876 Ugglebarnby, 75, 84, 2S8, 290, 301, 308, 312, 377, 818, 874. Ugthorpe, 78,84,90,416, 765, 875. Upleatham, 75, 328, 357, 416, 420 651, 660, 804, 811, 874. Vindician, a Roman officer, 713-716 Volunteers, 605, 606, 871. Wada, Wade, Woden, 21, 41, 42. 666, 724-726, 729, 733. W'ainstones, 767, 768. Walsgrave, 83 — 89, 257, 644, 645. Watkins, Mr. William, 638, 872. Wapley, 434, 658, 665, 672, 699. Wearmouth, 138, 201, 233, 717. Wells, 132, 602, 709, 774, 787, 882. Westerdale, 436, 654, 671, 754, 768. Whale fishery, 562 — 568. Wharton family, 651, 730, 850. W hit bv, 75, 82,80-93 , 240, &c.474,&c. Wh church,325,353,366-37 0,462, 607 Whitby Lathes, 287,288, 319 647. Wh. Strand, 141, 270-272, 287, 325. Wilfrid bp. of York, 156.&C.176-1S0, 190-200, 203, 228-230. William theConq. 67-92,250,253,278 William Rufus, 253-258, 278, 360. Wilson, William, Esq, 848. Wilton in Gl. 419, 651,730, 804, S74. Windmills, 320, 321, 628, 629. Wykeham, 76, 269, 438, 441, 462, 465, 652, 733, 804, 873. Yarm, 803, 806, S45. Yarmouth, 632. 533, 822, 823. Yburn, 288, 301. 315, 322, 463, 846. Yeddinuham, 439-441 , 462,465, 643. York, 3.10,39-41,49,72,108,112,116, 125.150,197-200,245,249,273,290, 298, 333> 357, 362, 38 1, 401 ,415,430, 579,699,704,7 1 7-723,741 ,767,832. Yrton ; see Irion. Zoology, 796-799. Zoophytes, 799. ADDENDA. Since the description of the town and environs was finished, a splendid house has been erected by Edward Chapman, Esq., in the vacant space in the middle of the New Buildings ; three elegant houses have been added to Bagdale by Mr. Michael Teasdale ; and a. very handsome house, Clvibmont Lodge, has been built at High Stakes!) y by th Rev. .J. T. Holloway, A M., who receives a limited number of young gentlemen as pupils, for classical education, and accommodates them with board and lod ;ing. A il these. buildings are of stone. — The guns belonging to the batteries (See p. 540, il l 1 ) are now dismounted, and laid up in the storehouse. — The ship-yard mentioned p. 518, as the property of II. Campion, Esq. is now' in that gentleman’s own hands; and he is constructing there a large dry dock. In digging out this dock, several oak trees were discovered at a great depth from the surface; one of them measured above 20 feet long, and 2 feet in diameter. — Besides the copper coin of Titus, found at Ormsbv, as noticed in p. 766, Note, the Rev. J. Thompson of that place has some copper coins of Nero, Vespasian, Trajan, Maximian, Constantine, &c. all recently found at Eston. This strengthens my conjecture (p. 6S9), that the Romans have occupied the camp on Eston Nab. — Since p. 780 was printed, another specimen of glossopctrce has been found at Whitby, and is in the possession of Mr. Bird. A most interesting crocodile’s head, in which the two sockets for the eyes are very distinct, has also been found near Whitby, and is now in the collection of Thos. Hindervvell, Esq. Scarborough. — The carious bird described p. 797, 79S, ap- pears to be only a singular variety of the chaffinch. A white cncltoo was lately shot near Sleights by the Rev. T. Castley. A golden crested wren was shot a short time ago by Mr. John Holt, son of John Ilolt, Jun Esq. STJBSCSIBEBS* NAMES, HIS MAJESTY’S LIBRARY’, large paper Mr. W. Abraham, Lofthouse Mrs. Adams, 2 copies Mr. Joseph Addison ... M. Agar, Fry op ... R. Agar, ditto ... Francis Agar Mrs. Ainsworth, Bookseller, Scarbro’ M essrs. J . & R. Akenbead, Booksellers, Newcastle, 2 copies Mr. John Alexander Mrs. S. Allaly Geo. 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Young, Builder, Edinburgh *** In a list of such extent, it is not unlikely, that the names of a few subscribers may have been omitted. If any such omissions have oc- curred, the copies will be obtained at the subscribers’ price, on application to the publishers. ERRATA ET CORRIGENDA. Pref. p. vi. The names of Rich. Rudyard, Esq., and Mr- W. Hansen, have been in advertently omitted in the list of Whitby gentlemen to whom the author is under peculiar obligations, p. 35, line 11, for a cave read this cave p. 128, 1. 19, after altar put an asterisk * p, 141, Notes, 1. 22, for consruxit read construxit p. 148, Notes, 1. 3, for Lin disfarne read Fame island p 171, Notes, I. 9, for mime read name p. 199, Notes, 1. 25, for prosecutors read persecutors p. 327, Note. The trial between the abbot of Whitby and the rector of Lyth, referred to in the Note, could not be the same with that recorded in the text, being 100 years later. p. 332, 1.11, fovThc jjrior Royer read Tlu abbot Royer p. 345, 1. 1, Dele breadth of the p. 365, 1. 18, for xiiii rea l xiiiirf. p.398, Note, 1.4, f. E .1 hrynng The reference should be U ilk. Concil. J. p. 252. Saxon p is used for U1 in a few instances, p. 503, Head-line, for RISE A~SL> PRO- GRESS r. PRFSEST STATE. p.404, 495. Scategate, called also Scale- lane, is now found to be the Mount, or high r part of Ciiff lane: perhaps it was an ancient name of Cliff lane, as being a continuation of the street that is still calied Scate lane. p. 585, Note, 1. last, for Richard I read Richard II. p. 665, 1. 3, af.er avenue put an asterisk * n. 700, I. 7, for right read left p. 771, 1.33, f. Sandsend and Kettlencss, r. Runstviek and Staiths p. 842, 1. 5, 6, f. treated lord Hotliam, of South Daltcn in Ireland, r. created a baron of Ireland, by the title of lord Hotliam of South Dalton p. 874. The population of Kirkbv Mis- perton in the List is that of the township only. The population of tile parish is about 450. p. 877, 1. 11 from bottom, f. 1812 r. 1S10 Erratum in the Map; f. Fad.noor read Gillimoor, and f. GUlirnoor r. F'adtr.oor. WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR, (Sold by Clark and Medd) Evangelical Principles of Religion Vindicated, in a Series of Letters, Price 6s. The Mariner’s Refuge, a Discourse to Seamen. Price Is. fine. 6d. common. The Downfal of Napoieon and the Deliverance of Europe Improved: a Sermon. Second Edition. Price Is. A Complete System of Short Hand, with Ten Engrav- ings. By A. W. Stones. Second Edition. Price 5s. boards. Taylor’s Instructions for Mariners, respecting the Management of Ships at Single Anchor. Tenth Edition. Price Is. CLARK AND NEDD, PRINTERS, WHITBY. Date Due CALL NUMBER { / —y - Vol. / Date (for periodical) Copy No. 942. 74 Y7.cH 593562