d v Kb Tre " s »re^ m tAjtAlAfiAlAtt/AlArtAtai^tAiiAlA^/ftlAtu&lAtiAt THE ART '/DRESS- A POEM- ieA4*^WiCAfe|tftfeteRfeieHfetettfe»eAfeieA^ie#i\»ieR I'^IW^I \Trice One Shilling.] I s , ■8 c . ; n ( 1 THE ART O F DRESS A POEM. Quanto reBiw hoc, quam trifti Ixdere verfu Tantolabum fcurram, Nomentanumque nefotem ? Hor. LONDON: Printed for R. Burleigh, in oAmen-Corner. M. DCC. XVII. - i .i. ..... cted&dbt6^Jfec : bdbdfe <3bdbdbtrifcdbtfedbtfe'Jb T O T H E TOASTS O F GREAT-BRITAIK Ladies, OU, forwhofePe- rufal the following POEM was chiefly intended, have the jufteft Claim The DEDICATION. Claim to its Patronage; and next to thofe who have Painted your Na« tural Beauties, he that treats of your Acquired Charms has doubtlefs a Right to your Favour; Female DRESS, though touch'd upon lightly in Ma- ny excellent Pieces, has not, that I know of, ever been wholly the Subjedt of One; The AUTHOR has handled it in a Lu- dicrous, but uncommon Hi- The DEDICATION. Hiftorical Way; tho' it will do him, perhaps, lit- tle Service to declare that his Fancy and Mat- ter are New, when fuch Numbers of Scriblers have the fame Plea for Theirs every Day. Be that as it will, all he Aims at is, bringing you over betimes to his Intereft, fince the Cava- Iter Criticks will always go in with your Cen- fure, The DEDICATION. fure, or Praife, and thofe who are not fo, will nei- ther be courted , nor fear'd by Tow cmftcmt Admirer , and Servant. J. D. B. *??mmB§8&®u@m DRESS. A POEM. JL N Antient Times, before this Ifle was known, While Rome fubdu'd the Continent alone; E'er Foreign Lords the "TBritifb Kings control'd, Or the wild Native knew the Ufe of Gold, 6 Cur Our fimple Mothers (as old Authors write) Guiltlefsof Pride, in Dress took no delight. Skins round their Middles negligently ty'd, ConceaPd what Nature prompted them to Hide: Uncoutbly daub'd with Paint, the reft was Bare, 'And to their Feet reach'd down their length of (Hair: They ask'd no Tin Money, and us'd no Pafte, Nor fuffer'd Torture for a {lender Wafte, But learn'd betimes in Forefts to perfue The flying Deer, and twang their Bows of Eugh ; Intent on Rural Sports, defy'd the Spleen^ Made homely Meals, and took no Drams (between. "W Such artlefs Nymphs, (as Chronicles will fhow) Were here in Vogue Two Thoufand Years ago, Till (3) Till CiESAR firft debauch'd us into Vice, And Maiden-Heads began to bear a Price : Legions of Trulls then landed on the Shore, And Romeh fucceeding Lords fent over more : They cloath'd, and taught our Women how to (pleaie, And Civilized the Monfters by degrees. Her Woods and Lawns the Huutrefs now forfook, Topra£tife Airs in ev'ry Chryftal Brook; WorfhipM the Cyprian Queen in Dian's ftead, Ty'd on the Mantle, and adorn'd her Head ; To jaunty Steps redue'd her'antient ftride, And laid the Quiver, and the Darts afide. Old Legiflators drove, (but all in vain) To drive back Vanity beyond the Main; B % Ana (4) And 'Druids bellow'd till their Lungs were fore, Alas ! their Audience minded them no more ; jFor Men themfelves were Prettier Fellows grown, And Licensed Female Follies by their own. Four Ages no^r, were Fafhions at a ftand, Till * Hengist feiz'd on this unguarded Land; With him f Rowena (peerlefs Beauty) came, (To BruteV expiring Race a fatal Name !) She from the German Elbe> and TSaltic Shore, Of Charms and Graces brought a deadly Store : On i| VortigernV foft Soul the Poyfon wrought, And in the Syren's Net the King was caught. * The firfi Saxon King of Kent. -J- His Neice. See, Milton 9 s Hiftory of England. ]| The King of Britain. Hence CO Hence the great Change enfu'd, ordain'd by Fate, Which turn'd this Empire to an Heptarch State ; The Conquer'd Tiritons to their § Alp withdrew, And Antient Habits foon gave way to New, Of all the Saxm Courts, which, bore the Bell, For Beauty, Air, and Drefs, no Records tell ; For Lies, and Legends, only flourifh'd then, (The ftupid Labours of the Monkifh Pen,) 'Till valiant * Egbert made the Crowns unite, And his Lay-Subje&s firft began to write. Now followed fome Luxurious Peaceful Reigns, Till Time and Fate brought in the Cruel T)anes : In War and Bloodfhed Ages pafs'd away, Whilft thefe prevailed by Turns, and loft the Day; § The Welch Mountains. Z Flr ft> fa e Monarch of England, At At lafl: on England* long contefted Throne f Canute the Fierce, fate undifturb'd alone; Him, Emma charm'd, who Beautiful as Good, Retriev'd the Glories of her Saxon Blood ; And call'd the Graces back which left the Land, Whilft Fiends and Furies tofsM the flaming Brand, Now Ladies prattis'd each Cofmetic Lore, As their great Gran-Dames did in Days of Yore ; Renew'd their Antient Snares to Ruin Man, RoIPd the bewitching Eye, and play'd the Fan, So when fome Hurricane has ceas'd to Rage, And Seas and Winds no more their Battles wage j t The fir -ft Danifh King of England, who married Emma ? Widow of Kin? Ethelfed. w (7) Th' endangered Bark which floated on the Main With Canvas furPd, and bore the Shock with Pain, Through gentle Waves now cuts her eafy way, Spreads all her Sails, and lets her Streamers play. Then our firft Quixots us'd on Steeds to Prance, Buckled in Mail, and break th' unweildy Lance; For prudent Nymphs (and who can blame the Fair In chufing well, who took fuch early Care) Would put their Lovers on that bold Effay, To know their Strength before the Wedding Day. Much ftill there wanted to compleat our Dress, And Tfeaus and "Belles were awkard with Excefs, Till William brought his Norman Models o'er, TrunhHofe, and Farthingales unknown before. The (8) The Female To^Kjtot us'd till then to Rife A Gothic Stru&ure, and a mere Difguife ; Their Motion was untaught, the work of Chance, And our Court-Minuet, but a Morrice-Dance. Firft in his Days appear'd in all its State The fplendid Toilet cover'd o'er with Plate ; (Thofe fatal "Boxes, which more Ills contain'd Than in Pan dor k*s e'er the Poets feign'd.) The polifhM Mirrour, (Emblem of the Fair, Shining, yet Brittle) was ere£led there ; Combs, "Patches, Taint, had their allotted Place, And ev'ry Toy that gives the Sex a Grace. Fam'd Rosamond, as Antient Ballads tell, Was pafling Fair, and Drefs'd, exceeding well ; Her (?) Her Skin was Lilly-White, and Black as Jet Her Eye, transfixt the great * Plantagen^t : She firft usM IVafhes for the Neck and Face, And binding AUom for another Place. Malicious Fame reports her Hair was Red, And that fhe fmooth'd it with a Comb of Lead ; Howe'er it was, the Monarch lik'd her fo, He kept her where no Flefh alive could know, Till jealous Nell (Oh Tale as fad as true!) Found out her Lodging by the fatal Clue. Nor fhould a Thoufand more be left unfung, Whom Story boafts as Beautiful and Young; Who grac'd our Edwards, and our Henrys Days, For want pf Bards, depriv'd of half their Praife. * King Henry II. C But i *° ) But An ! to venture on fuch lofty Things, :t.. Beware my Mufe, nor trufi: thy feeble Wings. I O Prior, Congreve, Lansdown, gentle Peer, And Addison fo ftrong, and yet fo clear ; Yours be the Task, ye Swans of Silver hue, Who Soar fo wondrous High, and Sing fo true. I When, and from whence the Ruff at firft was ( ! (brought, Long, but in vain have puz'ling Criticks fought. In after Times, fome future Bentley's Care, Shall gravely mark the Climate and the Year ; Bentley (great Sage) whone'ervouchfafes to write, But fuch important Matters come to Light. Queen V (.1) Queen * Kate of Auftrian Blood, Demure and (Wife, S wellM the fiiff'Circte y to a larger Size, And wore it as was then the Spamjb Mode, For Female Shoulders thought too great a Load. Sortie Winters pafs'd, and then Eliza tfay% Sworn Enemy to Rome, a wondrous Maid L She turn'd put Toftjh Modes, but kept in T^zf,. » T And introduced, befides, the Steeple-Hat ; Fenc'd the huge Tettkqat with Ribs # of Wha! , And arm'd our Mothers in the circling -Mail. _, Such have I feen in f Cecil', Anti^t^aB,; His Kindred Beauties rang'd along $&Ut& ^ ! i — . , ; — — i. M l i * Infanta *f Spin, Wife, fir ft to Prince Arthur; jviffct* f? />// Brother, Henry VIII. f Hatfield C 2 By ( w y By fomc great Pencil to the Life exprefs'd, And in that Ages Form Precifely Drefs'd. O ! charming Salisbury, of TuftonV Race, Thou Soul Celeftial, with an Angel's Face, Could the long Order of the fleeping Fair, Freed from Death's Chain, once more breath Vital (Air, With Envy would they blufh, with Rage to See, Their Fafhions foils to Thine; themfelves to Thee. Our next tfnhappy Stuarts payM the Way, For Caledonian Dames to come in play ; Beauties that fiifted hardly once a Week, For Cfeanlinefj, alas ! to them was Greek ! No^ followed Canting Turitans in Shoals, Who fpoiTd our Bodies, as they danurtHrar Souls j or (13) Of ev'ry Ornament they ftrip'd the Pair, And hid their Bubbies with Paternal Care; The Farthingall and Ruff appeared no more, And Ribbons favour'd of the Scarlet Whore ; With fad Simplicity they fillM the Land, Brought in the Forehead-Cloth and formal-Hani. In thofe Fanatic Times (the learned fay) Attempts were made to Preach the Smock away, For Smocks t fo near the Flefh, were Carnal, plain, Too like the Surplice, and of courfe Profane ; The Zealous Kjrk the godly Caufe to Crown, Clean Linnen, and the Common Trafr put down; Oh! ( H) Oh ! had that Crew for England's Bane defign'd, Been to its Native North alone confined ! Annals might want, nor we our felves fhould know One Melancholy Scene of Royal Woe ; Wild Anarchy had kept beyond the Main, With all her Viper-Brood, and Beftial Train, Nor had our State been loft , nor haplefs (Charles been (lain., But lo, the Sun breaks thro* the difmal Gloofn, The Second Charles fills up tWUfeirper's Room, Unnumber'd Beaut ifcs flock from ev'ry Part, And aim their Glances at their Matter's Heart. The noify Hypocrite no more was fear'd, But Mantuas, Tendants, and Commodes appear'd ; In ( >5) In all his wonted Flames the Lover burn'd, And * Sytyhs long Banifh'd to their Charge returned, f Sackvile and Wilmot then fat Cenforshere, Kind to the Sex, but to its Faults fevere \ Such Satire flow'd from their abounding Store, Tho' France did much, their Pens refin'd us more. Fools, and Coquets, the Mufe Impartial bit, The falfe Pretenders both to Airs and Wit ; Hence Woman ftill improved, whilft ev'ry Moon With fome New Mode produced a new Lampoon. Succeeding Beauties made the Former lefs, Their "Deshabille excell'd their Mother's Drefs. * Aerial Spirits, compofed of the purefi Atoms of the Air, See, The diverting Miftory of the Count De Gabalis. \ The Earls of Dorfet and Rochefter. In (16) In AnnaV Days at laft the Point was gain'd, To Fafhion's higheft Pitch our "Belles attained ; From France they came, and many a Foreign Shore, To learn Our Arts, who taught us Theirs before. Love's Goddefs now the Furheloe difpiays, Invents the Flounces, and Reforms the Stays ; Her Handmaid Sifters leave their old Abodes, And make this Town Metropolis of Modes. By Fa£Hon guided, Ladies patch the Face, And to the Watch now add the Twezer Cafe. White Breafts, and Shoulders bare, invade the Eye, And Legs no more conceaPd, our Jefts defy, A * Thofe pretty Legs fo Taper, and fo Smart, By which Men guefs at ev'ry other Tart. The (»7) The Tetticoat remained a Point in doubt Till Wren was forc 7 d to help our Beauties out ; A Roman Cupola * he fhow'd in Print, And thence of }/hdern Hoops, they took the hint ; The vaft Circumference gives Air below, At large they tread, and more Majeftick fhow : Thro' Lanes of ravilh'd Beaus the Wonders pafs, And Names of Toasts are Cut on confcious Glafs, To you, fair Virgin Throng,With Myrtle crown'd Our Bumpers fill'd with gen'rous Wine go round ; For you, th' Italian Worm her Silk prepares, And diftant India fends her choiceft Wares ; Some Toy from ev'ry Part the Sailor brings, The Sempftrefs labour^, and the Poet fings. * Sir Chrifbpher WrenV Trint of St. Paul'/ Cathedral. D 2 To ( '») To your bright Eyes I confecrate my Lays, InfpirM and warm'd by Their Celeftial Rays ; Leave your TSaJJet, your Sermons, and your Tea, And liften to the Rules prefcrib'd by Me. When, undifturb'd with Spleen, you then defign At Court, the Play, or in the Ring to fhine, Betimes, O Nymphs! to your Toilets repair; And firft let Betty Comb th'Ambrofial Hair. Not all your Locks are equal in Renown, Red yields to Fair, and Black excells the Brown ; Some ask a plenteous Store of fcented Grains; Some, none at all ; and pleafe with little Pains : Thofe, wanting Order, fcarce endure the Teflr, And Thefe, in carelefs Favorites are beft; The (I5>) The brilliant Bodkin often adds a Grace, Or Jef amine fets off the blooming Face ; But be not Bigots to fuch Toys as thefe ; Approv'd to Day, to Morrow they difpleafe. Much Ribbon was in Ufe in Days of Yore, Of Ells each Topknot had at leaft a Score, Now Cuftom has retrench'd that old Excefs, And fix'd on Female Brows a frugal Drefs ; For your New Pinners even fink below The frizzled Foretop of a Modern Beau. Take, gentle Creatures, take a Friend's Advice, In polifhing your Teeth be wond'rous nice ; For no Defed in thefe (fhould fuch be known) Ten Thoufand other Graces will attone j Oft Oft let the Brufh it's Morning Task repeat; And fliun at Boards the too high-feafon'd Meat; Ragouts j and lufcious Soups, make Teeth decay, And opening Lips the tainted Breath betray ; But ah ! Your Paints are worfe ; refrain from Thofe, Nor lofe true Pearls to gain a borrow'd Rofe. Jewels, in which You take fo great a Pride Are fometimes beft (believe me) laid afide ; Such Ornaments take up the dazzled Eye, And make us pafs your Charms unheeded by ; Befides, what Value adds the fhining Store, When many a formal Cit perhaps has more ? If Chloe's Features, and beginning Bloom, Surprize the Cenfors of the Dra wing-Room j if juft her Shape, her Air bedegagee, Her plain French Necklace is preferr'd by me. The (« ) The Teague-land Beau, with his Corinthian Face, Perfues ^Brocade, and dies for Flanders Lace ; For this wife Maxim he has learn'd by rote, That richeft Outfides, greateft Wealth denote. Lefs fordid We, but more refin'd of Tafte Efteem in Chints, or Crape, a charming Wafte ; Thro' Streets full oft, by Calicoes are led, And Burn for Dashwood in a Muflin Head. 'Tis no fmall Task the true Genteel to hit And fhun the Cenfure of the Park or Pit ; Oft have I feen a Mantua pinn'd amifs Make People fneer, and almoft daufe a Hifs : For Knots ill-fancy'd, or a tawdry Gown 111 natur'd Criticks, cry the Woman down ; With • ( 22 ) With Trudes and Slatterns open War they wage, And Ten to One, if either fcapes the Stage. Four charming Sifters, * here in Vogue of late, Long rul'd unrival'd the Cofmetic State ; They nothing wore, but what was a pofos^ Nor could the World compleater Models (how ; But cruel Death (ah, Monfter,* too unkind !) Has left but half that Conquering Race behind. Tho' moft condemn the Fair that's over-nice, Too great Negle£t is oft an equal Vice : Th' eftablifh'd Bdfe fomc Privilege may take, Affe£t loofe Airs : and counterfeit the Rake : * The Duke of Marlborough'/ Daughters. Tf May May lay the Necklace, and the "Drop afide, Half comb her Lock£, and all her Linnen hide ; But no fuch Ltcenfe is to Thofe allow'd, Whofe iindiftinguifh'd Forms make up the Crowd. How plain foe'er yoft Dress, be throughly clean, Nor let the Smock be foul, becaufe unfeen ; But chiefly You, that are to Tlump inclined, And You, whofe Hair is of the Carrot Kind. Be wond'rous tight about the Leg and Foot ; Thofe Parts negle&ed, foon betray the Slut t In chufing Stockings, fhun the Vulgar "Blue, And braid, as well as lace, the Damask Shoe. When you put on, to grace a folemn Day, Your beft Attire, and ev'ry Charm difplay ; E Each (H) Each due Convenience for your Eafe prepare : But moft, ye Nymphs, of lacing clofe, beware \ Left, by a Fit furpriz'd, you, fwooning, fall, Difturb the Feaft, or interrupt the Ball : Then the Breaft heaves, the Blufh the Cheek forfakes, Till fome kind Hand the Whalebone Prifon breaks: Mean while, an Am'rous Youth may fteal a Kifs; Orfnatch, unfelt, perhaps, a greater Blifs. I much approve, when Snowy Breads are feen Of Fragrant Sprigs the Nofegay ftuck between : The Scent and Objed make us half defpair, And ardent Lovers wi(h their Lips were there. When for the Morning Air abroad you fteal, The Cloak of Camlet may your Charms conceal ; The CM) The Cloak, in which a Noble Peer * of late Got off Incog, and (lily bilk'd the State : That, with a Mask, is fuch a fure Difguife, 'T would cheat an Argus, or a Spaniard's Eyes, Thus whilft with ArtlefsHand I touch the String, And trace our Fajhions to their Ancient Spring ; For Berkley'.* Lofs, with Song divert my Care, And call the Beauteous Crowd to lend an Ear ; Vouchfafe, Aufpicious on the Mufe to fhine, Supreme of Nymphs, O Matchlefs Caroline! So, may thoft! (graces (who, deriv'd from Thee, Of Future Bards tfre Glorious Theme fhall be) * The Earl of Nithifdale. E a When ( 2 /ai Att/»l Am a« A<)/?iCW>ri>i APPLE-PYE. .A POEM. By Dr. KING. Nowfirfi Printed from a Correff Copy. $i<^«,T<*^<^<>Te><^ 1 f. .c^t^^t^c^^c^^^^dbtdb^c^dfe^t^ d fif&aen < qpqpqp4.qpqpqpqpqp qpqpqpj.'qpqpqp'qpqp'Qp APPLE-PYE POEM. OF all the Delicates which "Britons try, Topleafe the Palate, or delight the Eye; Of all the feveral Kinds of Sumptuous Fare ; There's none that can with Apple-Pye compare, For coftly Flavour, or fubftantial Pafte, For outward Beauty, or for inward Tafte. When (3°) When firft this Infant-Difh inFafhion came, Th'Ingred ients were but Coar fe, a nd rude the Frame ; As yet unpolilh'd in the Modern Arts, Our Fathers Eat brown Bread inftead of Tarts : Tyes were but indigefted Lumps of Dough, Till Time and juft Expence improved 'em fo. King Col (as Ancient ^Britiftf Annals * tell) Renown'd for Fidling, and for Eating well, Tiffins m homely Cakes with Honey ftew'd, Juft as heUaVd, (the Proverb fays) he^rewt. * See, the old 'Ballad of King Col, Their (3«) Their greater Art fucceeding Princes fhow'd, And modelPd Tafte into a neater Mode ; Invention now grew lively, Palate nice, And Sugar pointed out the Way to Sfice. But here for Ages unimptov'd we flood, And &4ppIe-Tjre was ftill but homely Food; When God-like Edgar of the Saxon Line, Polite of Tafte, and ftudious to refine, In the Difert perfuming Quinces caft, And perfected with Cream the rich Repaft. Hence vi% proceed the outward Parts to trjm, With Crinkuracranks adorn the polifh'd Brim; And each frefh Pye the pleas'd Spe&ator greets With Virgin-Fancies, and with new Conceits* Dear (3«> Dear Nelly, learn with Care the Paftry Art, And mind the Eafy Precepts I impart : Draw out your Dough elaborately thin, And ceafe not to fatigue your Rolling-Tin : Of Eggs and "Butter fee you mix enough : For then the Tafte will fwell into a Tuff, Which will in crumpling Sounds your Praife report, And eat, as Houfewives fpeak, exceeding fliort. Rang'd in thick Order, let your Quinces lie ; They give a charming Relifh to the Pye. If you are wife, you'll not "Brown SugaY flight, The Browner (if I form my Judgmentiright) A deepi Vermillion Tincture will difpence, And make your Tiffin redder than the guince. When When this is done, there will be wanting ftill, ThijUft Referve of Cloves and CandfdTeel) Nor can I blame you, if a Drop you take Of Orange-Water, for Peifunsing-fake. But here the Nicety of Art isfueh, There muft not be too little/ nor too much ; If with Discretion you thefe^dfts employ, They quicken Appetite ; if not, they cloy. Next, in your Mind this Maxim firmly root, Never overcharge yeur Pye with CoflJy Fruit : Oft let your Bodkin thro' the Lid be fent, To give the kind imprifon r d Treafure vent ; Left the fermenting Liquor, clofely prefiv Infeiifibly, by conftant Fretting, wafte, And o'er-iilform your Tenement of JPafte, F 2 To (3+) To chufe your Tiaker, think, and think again (You'll fcarce One Honeft "Baker find in Ten :) Aduft and bruis'd, I've often feen a Pye, In Rich Difguife and Coftly Ruin lie, While penfive Cruft beheld its Form overthrown, ExhauftedG/4/^forgriev'd, their Moifture flown, And Syrup from the Sides ran trickling down. O be not, be not tempted, Lovely Nell, While the hot-piping Odours ftrongly fmell, While the delicious Fume creates aGuft, To lick th' o'erfkrwing Juice, or bite the Cruft. You'll rather ftay (if my Advice may Rule) Until the Hot's corre£ted by the Cool ; *Till you've infus'd the lufcious Store of Cream, And chang'd the Purple, for a Silver Stream j 'TIB . (35) •Til? that fmooth Viand its mild Force produce, And give a Softnefs to the tarter Juice. Then fhalt thou, pleas'd, the Noble Fabrick view, And have a Slice into the Bargain too ; Honour, and Fame alike, we will partake, So Well I'll Eat, what you fo Richly Make. FINIS. ~K- *JU on qpqp; qpqpqpqpqp qp^pqpjqpqp^pqpQp BO O K Lately Publifli'd. T IE Poetical WORKS of Nicholas Revue, Efq; Poet Laureat to His MAJESTY. Price 4/. II: POEMS by Mr. John Philips, late ofChrift- Church, Oxon. To which is prefixed his Life, Price 1 J*. III. A Poem on the Laft Day. By Mr. Toting. The Th^d Edition Corrected. Adorn'd with Three Curious Cuts. Price 1 IV. The Force of Religion ; or, Vattquijlfd Love. (Illuflrated in the lliitoi y of tne Lady Jane Gray) A Poem in Two I*ggfc$. By' Mr. Toting. Adorn'd with Cuts. Price i3g V. ESTHER Queen orPerfia. A Poem in Four Books. By Mr. Henley. Price 1 s. 6 d. VI. 'Boileati's Lutrin : An Heroi-Comical Poem. In Six Cantos. Adorn'd with Cuts. Price is. Cd. 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